i^ortíitoeítern ÍKníberóítí» ILiörarp
€ban¿ton, SUtnotô
THE GIFT es-
-wvV 0
TRAVELS
IN
EUROPE, EGYPT, AND PALESTINE
BY
MRS. S. B. THOMAS.
WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY UROFESSOR L. C. LOOMIS, A.M.
ILLUSTRATED FROM ORIGINAL SKETCHES.
PHILADELPHIA:
J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO.
1860.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1860, by
L. C. LOOMIS,
the Clerk's OflSce of the District Court of the United States for the District
of Columbia.
TO
MY NEPHEW,
THE HONORABLE EDWIN T. MERRICK, LL.D.
OF NEW ORLEANS,
CHIEF JUSTICE OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA,
"^^15 '^ofumc
IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
CHAPTER I.—The Atlantic—The Voyage—Liverpool 19
II.—London 26
III.—Northern England 51
IV.—Scotland 61
V.—Ireland 71
VI.—France 79
VII.—Belgium 112
VIII.—The Rhine 116
IX.—Switzerland 124
X.—Southern France and Northern Italy 131
XL—Rome 143
XII.—Southern Italy 177
XIII.—The Mediterranean 220
XIV.—Egypt 229
1* 5
(j CONTENTS—illustrations.
PAG£
CHAPTER XV.—Cairo 238
XVI.—Palestine
XVII.—Syria 347
XVIII.—The Mediterranean and Greece 370
XIX.—Central Europe 401
Index 427
.ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
Portrait Frontispiece.
Mary's Bower 53
Map of Naples 176
Neapolitan Omnibus 182
Water-Carrier, Naples 185
Rock of Tiberius 194
Beggars, Naples 199
St. Paul's Bay, Malta 226
Map of Malta 228
Sultan's Tomb, Cairo 241
Pyramid 274
Map of Palestine 286
Jenin, Samaria 329
Balbec 361
Beyroot 367
Mitylene 392
PREFACE.
In presenting this work to the public, the author
wishes simply to say, that, having long had a desire
to visit the Old World and see the places familiar
from childhood, the tour was undertaken solely for
the pleasures and benefits of personal observa¬
tion of the countries visited. And being unre¬
stricted by the necessities of either a business or
a sanitary excursion, the route taken, was deter¬
mined by the attractions of ISTature, Art, History,
or Religion.
Most of the places visited being more or less
known to American readers, the author has sought
to present those facts, circumstances, and appear¬
ances of interest, which are least noted by tour¬
ists.
The author would express her acknowledgments
7
8 PREFACE.
to the Rev. Dr. Kilgore, of Franklio, La., and to
Colonel William Bryan, of Nashville, Tenn., her
compagnons de voyage.
To Professor L. C. Loomis and Dr. S. L. Loomis,
of Washington City, D.C., she also feels herself
deeply indebted for important services in preparing
the present work for the press, and in the super¬
vision of its publication.
New Orleans,
July 1, 1860.
INTRODUCTION
BY
lafayette c. loomis, a.m.
Upon the eastern edge of the broad and luxuriant
valley of the Connecticut, where the mountain
softens down into the vale, quietly nestles the little
village of Wilbraham. Years since, in the early
dawn of an Indian-summer morning, ere its solitary
spire was touched by the earliest rays of the golden
sunshine, its peaceful denizens were astir. Dr. Fisk
and a concourse of his pupils came sadly gathering
down the street. Numbers of the villagers were
lingering about the front gate of a house opposite
the old Methodist church. Within there were tears
and heart-throbbings. It was a house of mourning,
—not of death, but of sacrifice; of sorrow, but not
unmingled with joy.
From the far-off and fatal land of the Alabamas,
had come up a cry for help,—for one who should
come into their new and unformed country and estab-
9
10
INTRODUCTION.
liöli institutions for the education of their daughters—
and Dr. Disk had chosen for the mission, the one who
was standing at his side as co-laborer in instruction
and counsel.
To go that wilderness-journey of weeks, to a land
whose fevered airs blasted Northern strength at a
breath, was to set forth with one's life, w ith little
hope or thought of return.
The hour of departure was at hand : the rum¬
bling of the approaching coach, bade them hasten
the last, sad words of adieu. The mother, with that
heart which only mothers can know, gave her part¬
ing embrace and blessing as to a child whom she
should never behold again ; the father, as to a
daughter w^hose only shield henceforth was the pro¬
tecting liand of Him who notes the sparrow's fall.
From the door, along the walk to the coach, crowded
her pupils and friends, to oifer one more word of
friendship and sorrow.
As the coachman gathered up his reins and started
briskly away, many were the hearts that throbbed
and the tears that fell. Day after day, over hill and
valley, for six slow and weary weeks, toiled the heavy
coach of those earlier days, till, descending beyond
the Alleghanies, our brave-hearted young teacher,
alone and triendless, was lost in the savannahs and
forest-wilds of the South.
introduction.
11
Nearly forty years have passed since then. Fisk
and many that stood with him, have gone to their
rest, but she whom they mourned as going to an
early tomb, still lives.
Susan Brewer was born in Wilbraham, Massa¬
chusetts, in 1793. lier father, a man of character
and standing, being one of the earliest Methodists
of the place, and his house becoming the rendezvous
of the preachers, young Susan early imbibed the
spirit of Methodism from the Fathers, became a con¬
vert, and united herself to the church. Filled with
a desire to render her life useful to others, she re¬
solved to devote herself to the special education of
youth, and particularly to that branch of the Church
to which she felt so much indebted.
After due preparation, induced through the in¬
fluence of prominent Methodist friends to go to New
York, she commenced her labor as an instructor, by
establishing a private school in that city, which she
continued two years, when she was chosen teacher
in the New York Wesleyan Seminary,—the first
Methodist institution established in the city. Here,
becoming a member of the family of the Rev. Dr.
Bangs, she enjoyed unusual privileges of association
with the great teachers of her religion. After re-
maininsr in connection with that institution four
O
12
INTRODUCTION.
years, she removed to Baltimore and established a
private school, wliicli she conducted with great suc¬
cess for four years.
Meantime, the Wesleyan Academy at Wilbraham
having been erected, and meeting with favor under
the successful management of Dr. Fisk, Miss Brewer,
after an absence of ten years, returned again to the
scene of her former labors as preceptress of the new
seminary, and for two years, surrounded by-friends
and amid the endearments of home, associated with
that great and good man and eminent teacher, Dr.
Fisk,—labored happily and successfully.
A call being received at this time, for a teacher to
take charge of the Alabama Conference Seminary
located at Tuscaloosa, and Miss Brewer being selected
for the responsible position, as mentioned above, she
bade adieu to the scenes of her youth, as one to re¬
turn no more.
On her arrival at Tuscaloosa, she entered imme¬
diately upon her duties, and soon had one of the
most flourishing schools in the South. The increasing
number of pupils requiring additional teachers, she
sent North and obtained two young ladies from the
institution she had left. As soon as she had given
the young seminary suflicient strength and solidity,
Methodist friends from the southern part of the State,
near Montgomeiy, having solicited her to establish a
IXTRODUCTION.
13
school in their midst, she left the seminary in charge
of the teachers she had obtained, and responded to
the new call.
At the expiration of one year, receiving a call from
Northern Alabama, and having given this school a
fair start, she procured a teacher from the North
to supply her place, and assumed the supervision of
a large female seminary at Tuscumbia. Here she
remained one year, conducting with distinguished
ability and success, the most important educational
institution in that section of the State. During
these five years' residence in Alabama, it is doubtful
whether any one had acquired, as an instructor and
governess, a reputation equal to that of Miss Brewer.
Nor had her reputation and influence been confined
to that State merely. Mississippi, which was now
taking advance steps in education, bad beard of her
efibrts and success, and forwarded to Tuscumbia a
solicitation for her aid. Accordingly, sending again
to Wilbraham, her never-failing resort, she obtained
the Misses Goodwin—particular friends of Dr. Fisk
—to succeed her at Tuscumbia, while she went for¬
ward into Mississippi.
Taking charge of the Elizabeth Female Academy
located at Washington, and sending North for as¬
sistants, her efforts were attended with the same
success here, as had uninterruptedly marked her pro-
2
14
INTRODUCTION.
gress during those fourteen years service as an
instructor.
Her marriage to Captain David Thomas, of Jack¬
son, Louisiana, two years after, brought to a close
her career as a teacher of youth. But, though her
active duties ceased, her interest in education con¬
tinued unabated. She now, indeed, found herself in
circumstances and with a reputation which enabled
her to be more effective than heretofore. Captain
Thomas being one of the trustees of the State Uni¬
versity at Jackson, the capital of the State, Mrs.
Thomas had constant applications from all parts of
the South for teachers and governesses ; so that
through her instrumentality, not less than sixty
teachers were brought from the Horth into various
Southern States. Both sections of the country felt
the effects of these continued influences : in the one.
Dr.Fisk remarked that "Mrs. Thomas was a pioneer in
the cause of religious education in the far South;" and
in the other. Dr. Kennen, that "the whole State of Ala¬
bama was indebted to her for having brought into the
held so many teachers of high religious character."
But Mrs. Thomas's interest in education was not
limited to her own sex or the schools she had esta¬
blished. Centenary College is not without some
obligations to her. The State University, located at
Jackson, had for some years been lingering a verv
INTRODUCTION.
15
precarious existence, until at last it seemed impos¬
sible to maintain it longer. At this juncture, Captain
Thomas and other Methodist friends matured a plan
for securing the buildings to the Mississippi Con-
ference for a college ; to the ultimate success of
which, Mrs. Thomas, by her interest and influence,
contributed not a little. Passing into the hands of
the Conference in 1847, it has since, as Centenary
College, been attended with success.
In 1849, after a career of thirty years of active
participation in the cause of education, her husband
having deceased, Mrs. Thomas retired to more pri¬
vate life with her friends in New Orleans,—a career
which, judged by her personal success as an in¬
structor, by the schools permanently established and
transmitted to others, by the number of teachers she
brought into active service, or by the educational
interest excited in the communities where she dwelt,
certainly has few superiors in the history of American
women. It may not be easy to determine whether
the North is more indebted to Mary Lyon, than is
the South to Susan Brewer.
During this time, Mrs. Thomas has also been
known to the public as a writer as well as a teacher.
The readers of the " Methodist Magazine," pub¬
lished many years since in New York, may recollect
her contributions over the signature of " Miranda^
16
INTRODUCTION,
Somewhat later, she became a contributor to the
"Youth's Magazine," also published in New York,
as "J. Friend to Youth;" afterward, over her own
initials, to the "Young Ladies' Companion," at
Nashville. More recently, as correspondent of the
New Orleans and the North Carolina "Advocates,"
over her own name, she attained—especially by her
Letters from abroad, which were favorably received
and extensively read—the reputation of a writer of
high power of observation and description.
In 1857, though arrived at an age when the most
of her sex would have shrunk from an undertaking
requiring such strength and endurance, and involving
such perils and privations, she determined to cross
the Atlantic and visit the abodes of Art, Religion,
and Ancient Civilization,— places made sacred by
genius, heroism, and antiquity.
Upon her return from this tour, which occupied some¬
what more than a year, and which extended through
England, Scotland, Ireland, France, Belgium, Ger¬
many, Switzerland, Italy, Egypt, Palestine, Syria,
Greece, and Austria, she revised and arranged the
observations made upon the various places visited,
and prepared them for publication as the work now
before us.
Of this work we shall speak briefly. Its merits
may be summed up in few words. In the first
INTRODUCTION.
17
place, much credit is due for what has been left un¬
said as well as said. While we are taken over a
I'oute no longer new or undescribed, and with much
of which the public are already familiar, it is with
pleasure that, though these old acquaintances are not
ignored, we find ourselves introduced chiefiy to scenes,
seldom or not hitherto met, yet of equal interest.
Again, the observations heretofore made upon the
East, its people, manners, and customs, have been
the general truths and conclusions natural to the
mind of the sterner sex, leaving quite untouched all
those specific and individual facts which so readily
strike the more perceptive feminine nature; and
«
hence, few works as satisfactorily present the facts
and appearances of travel,—few give us as clear an
idea of places and people. The author, having the
sympathies and privileges of her sex, and freely enter¬
ing their social circles and domestic retreats, has been
enabled to give a view of the life, habits, joys, occu¬
pations, and dress of Eastern females, as could have
been expected from none but a female writer.
But, aside from the interest the work possesses to
the general reader, in the notes upon Rome, Naples,
Cairo, and their environs, and upon the Copts and
the Druses, there will be found much to reward the
attention of the scholar and the antiquary.
B 2* 17
TRAVELS
IN
EUROPE, EGYPT, AND PALESTINE.
CHAPTER I.
the atlantic—the voyage—liverpool.
We crossed the Atlantic without seeing it. The voyage
was very perilous,—more so, the captain informed us,
than he had experienced for twenty years. For many
days, we saw nothing but the dense fog which enveloped
the ship, and the spray which dashed over its sides. The
sublimity and grandeur of the ocean's swell were not
seen ; but its power was felt in the creaking timbers, and
the rolling plunge of the ship through the billows.
The strong easterly wind and the dense fog, lasted
without intermission, for five days and five nights.
Almost all the passengers suffered from sea-sickness.
A few of us escaped, and enjoyed good health and
spirits, although we had darkness without and gloominess
within. What the passage of the Atlantic might be under
a bright sky and a genial atmosphere, it is not ours to
19
20
THE VOYAGE.
say ; but, under the circumstances in which it presented
itself to us, it certainly had very little of the romantic.
We were highly favored with the companionship of
passengers of superior intelligence and piety, whose pre¬
sence diffused a general cheerfulness and relieved the
dull monotony of the voyage.
The captain, whose presence inspired confidence and
respect, was a noble specimen of his profession. He was
brother to the one lost in the "Pacific." Every atten¬
tion possible for the comfort and happiness of the passen¬
gers was bestowed by him and his officers.
On the sixth day the sun cast its cheering light upon
the great deep, diffusing joy and gladness in every heart ;
but it was soon obscured again by cold and cheerless
clouds ; and the easterly winds brought on a storm,
which shrouded us in darkness for another day and night.
Truly, " they that go down to the sea in ships, that do
business in the great waters ; these see the works of the
Lord, and his wonders in the deep. For he command-
eth, and raiseth the stormy wind, which lifteth up the
waves thereof. They mount up to the heavens, they
go down again to the depths. . . . But he maketh the
storm a calm, so that the waves thereof are still."
The sky brightened up as we approached the coast of^
the "Emerald Isle," and, as the cry "Land ho!" was
heard, what joy filled all hearts I what a rush to see the
little speck of earth, like a cloud in the distant horizon I
This was the first time we had been on deck.
On the tenth day we sailed along so near the beautiful
coast that we could see its cliffs and green-clad hills, and,
THE DINNER.
21
with the aid of a telescope, its inhabitants. It reminded
us of the shores of our own loved country, and of the
friends we had just left. We could scarcely satisfy our¬
selves that it was but about a week since we bade adieu
to the venerable Dr. Bangs and family,—friends of our
early years,—who had accompanied us to the steamer on
our departure.
iïri)P ÏStnnfï.—On this day. Captain Eldridge gave a
splendid dinner, the only time when all the ship's company
were able to be present. Although our every-day fare
was most excellent, this was served up in a superior style.
The meats were dressed and ornamented in various forms
and fashions ; the jellies presented every variety of
beautiful shapes, one of which attracted great atten¬
tion,—the genius of America with her stars and stripes,
placed in a pyramid of transparent jelly. An American
lady, foreign by birth, pushed it aside with a sneer
of contempt, although she enjoys in a high degree the
privileges of our free institutions.
After the cloth was removed, several toasts were drank
in honor of the captain, the ofiScers of the ship, and our
country. Among the passengers, at the head of the table,
was the Hon. Judge H , of New York, whose noble
figure, and lofty brow covered with the snows of many
winters, well became the leading genius of the occasion.
Being called upon for a toast, he availed himself of the
opportunity to make a few brief and appropriate religious
remarks on our stormy passage and its happy termina¬
tion, with an allusion to the voyage of life, which were well
received.
22
LIVERPOOL.
How gratifying to see men of elevated position in the
intellectual and moral world, willing to lift the standard
of the Cross and unfurl its banner " on the land or the
sea," among all classes of people ! At the conclusion, a
German sang one of his native airs, which was responded
to by an American in a song well suited to the occasion.
Salutf.—As we entered the beautiful harbor of the
Mersey, a salute of guns announced our arrival. The
stars and stripes were waving from our own ships at
their moorings ; and we heard the national air of
"Yankee Doodle," which added much to the pleasure of
the new and attractive scene.
The massive docks which line the harbor, appear as
though they would defy the hand of time and the siege
of years.
îLtberpoOl.—This great commercial city is well built,
and has handsomely paved streets and side-walks, kept
generally clean. Its smoky atmosphere, like that of
London, rather heightens than diminishes its beauty.
It destroys the glare of objects, and casts a mellowness
over those more distant by concealing their sharp outlines,
thus lending "an enchantment to the view." The
churches and public buildings are grand and stately
edifices.
(Sceat JHancfjeStet iSlijibiiton of the art-treasures
of the United Kingdom. Had we arrived one day sooner,
we should have seen Queen Victoria and her royal cor¬
tège. But we saw that which was more desirable,—the
works of immortal genius. It was like walking in a world
of ideal beauty, untouched by the grosser elements of
MANCHESTER.
23
things around us, yet lifelike, glowing upon canvas, and
breathing in marble. In such a vast collection, it would
be useless to attempt to enter into the merits of paintings
and sculpture of such exquisite beauty, both of the ancient
and modern schools. Powers's Greek Slave was there,
"Standing alone in its glory,"
attracting the attention of the great world,—enough to
make one proud of the rising fame of American genius.
There were many objects of interest worthy of more
time and attention than we had to bestow-
We saw in these halls thousands of the best class of
English society, who resembled our own country-people
very much; but the ladies were not so handsome as
those of America. They were well dressed, but not more
tastefully than ours.
—We passed through only a part of Manches¬
ter and had but a glance of that workshop of nations
where our cotton is wrought into so many beautiful
fabrics. The banners were still waving in honor of their
royal visitor, from the spire-like chimneys of those exten¬
sive manufactories. They were all deserted by the ope¬
ratives, to get a sight of her majesty at the opening of
the Great Exhibition.
Going from Liverpool to Manchester, we passed through
a tunnel two miles in length, in a darkness which could
almost be felt, and emerged into a country cultivated like
a garden. So beautifully arranged was every field of
grain, meadow, pasture, and artificial woodland, that they
seemed to have anticipated nature in her happiest moods
24
LIVERPOOL.
In richness, the meadows, fields of wheat, and streams
of water resemble in some respects those of the Connecti¬
cut Valley in New England, The pastures, inclosed with
hedges, and the little cottages looking out amid clumps of
most beautiful trees, reminded us of some of the prairie-
lands of South Alabama. Every cottage upon the road¬
side or field, presents to the eye something of the
beautiful. Flowers and vines are cultivated and trained
wherever there is room enough for them to root. Along
the roadside and railways, they were seen blooming in little
patches and borders laid out with taste ; and, in some
places, vegetables also, which, we were informed, were for
the laborers on the road.
If poverty dwells among this class of people, it is
concealed by the outward appearance of comfort and
taste.
These landed proprietors have great power, the chief
cause, no doubt, of the high cultivation and improvement
of the country. They live in baronial mansions of ele¬
gance, controlling all beneath them. Their houses are
palaces, surrounded by all that is lovely and beautiful.
ILtfc.—Hotel life in Liverpool is very agree¬
able and home-like for strangers, for we live by our¬
selves, and order things just as we please. All things
move on, like a well-regulated timepiece, quietly, without
a jarring wheel. Our wants are supplied in a moment
by a touch of the wire which governs this invisible ma¬
chinery of domestic life. We scarcely hear the sound
of a voice or the noise of a footfall, so perfectly do
servants understand their business, so mild and gentle are
HOTEL LIFE.
their manners. Necessity, no doubt, has something to do
■with this.
The prices here are about the same as at St. Charles
Hotel, in New Orleans, and at St. Nicholas, New York.
Our tables are well furnished with all the comforts of
life, but in smaller quantities. Butter is served in small
prints, about the size of a dollar, and without salt.
All the butter throughout Europe is served in this way :
if salted, it is not called fresh. We have the largest
strawberries we ever saw, with the sweetest cream.
Last evening we had a social party of friends who
called upon us. Mr. K , wife, and daughter, from
Natchez, Miss. ; Dr. W., from West Feliciana, La. ; Judge
H and daughter, from New York,—all companions
of our voyage. We forgot for a while that we were on
this side of the Atlantic, and that old Ocean rolled be¬
tween us and home. Some of our party left this morning
for Scotland, others for Manchester and London; for
which latter place we design to start to-morrow.
3
CHAPTER IL
london.
Here we are in the great metropolis, lost in its im¬
mensity, like drops of water in the ocean. When we
stopped at the great London dépôt, it appeared like a
vast reservoir, into which all the streams of the earth
were pouring. But, notwithstanding the mighty mass of
human beings, all moved quietly on : there were no hack-
men calling in a loud tone for our baggage, and every
arrangement was made without clamor ; and we were soon
borne off in a comfortable coach to our lodgings at the
Morely House, Trafalgar Square.
ÍTcafalgar âÇUSif-—front of our temporary resi¬
dence, rises the lofty column upon which stands the bronze
statue of Lord Nelson ; opposite, stands that of General
Charles Napier, and on the right, the equestrian statue
of George the Fourth. The square, which is paved with
flat stones, is large and very beautiful. In its center are
two large reservoirs with marble fountains. On one side
of this square are the splendid buildings of the National
Gallery of Fine Arts, the Royal Academy, and St. Mar¬
tin's Church.
litOUte to Uonhon.—But to retrace our steps. From
Liverpool we took the Great Western Railway through
the romantic country of Wales. The cars we found as
comfortable as carriages at home. They are divided into
26
ROUTE TO LONDON.
27
classes,—first, second, and third. The first—fitted up
like our coaches, and held at a higher price — are for the
exclusive use of the aristocracy, to keep up the line of
distinction. In these we found agreeable and intelligent
society when we had any, but often we had the car en¬
tirely to ourselves.
A gentleman, with very pleasing manners, who trav¬
eled with us some distance, gave us much information
of the surrounding country. He also told us he had
purchased lands in Iowa, and was going to move to
America, which he thought was the greatest country in
the world.
The mountains of Wales, its hills and valleys, are
perfectly charming. They have some resemblance to
those in New England between Springfield and Boston.
But here every foot of ground bears the marks of culti-
tivation: and nature, in its wildest aspect, is brought into
subjection by the hand of taste as well as utility; pre¬
senting that infinite variety so pleasing to the eye.
Every pond of water, as well as "babbling brook," is
made to contribute largely to the development of beauty.
Trees, shrubs, and flowers are planted upon their margins,
as if so designed by the hand of nature. An eye to the
picturesque is everywhere seen. The baronial residences,
the farm-houses, the cottages sprinkled about, the pastures
dotted with flocks of the finest sheep,and the cattle grazing
among the green hills, present scenes of rural beauty
unsurpassed.
The old stone churches, which bear the marks of cen¬
turies, are there, embowered in shade as in the days of
28
LONDON.
our forefathers. The low-thatched cottages—with roofs
reaching almost to the ground, and the large, heavy-
looking windmills, with which we had formed acquaintance
in our school-girl days, in the sketches given us as first
lessons in drawing—seem like old familiar friends. And
now to see them in their original positions, after a
lapse of so many years, brings up associations of much
that is beautiful and lovely, long since passed away.
" Our fathers, where are they ? and the prophets, do they
live forever ?"
As we passed the city, we caught only a glimpse of
the classic spires of the Halls of Oxford,—those venera¬
ble and massive buildings,—associated in our thoughts
with Wesley, the father of Methodism.
dTirSt Impressions.—The aspect on entering London
from this route is quite imposing. The splendid palaces,
the beautiful gardens and parks which line the way, the
broad streets, the clean, well-built houses, and the magni¬
ficent churches with spires towering toward heaven, give
such an air of grandeur as is calculated to awaken feel¬
ings of wonder and admiration in every mind beholding
them for the first time. Even the somber hue occasioned
by the smoke, of which many complain, softens the sharp
outlines, and imparts an aspect of antiquity allied to sub¬
limity and grandeur.
<ïri)r jFiXßt âahbatj.—We purposed to worship in a
Wesley an chapel, but, through mistake, our carriage was
driven to one, now belonging to a small congregation of
Episcopalians, in which, it was said, the father of
Methodism once preached. It was an old-fashioned.
NATIONAL GALLERY.
29
primitive-looking church, something like those of the pil¬
grim fathers in New England ; quite small, though it
has been enlarged since Wesley preached in it. Behind
the door, in the vestibule, stood the quaint old pulpit
which he once occupied, and upon which we looked with
deep interest, thinking how much the world was indebted
to him.
In the evening it rained, and we stepped over to St.
Martin's, where we heard an eloquent sermon and de¬
lightful music; the voices of the children harmonized
with the lofty strains of the organ and filled the church
with melody. St. Martin's is one of the oldest churches
in the city ; and in its archives are recorded the baptisms
of Lord Bacon and other distinguished characters. In
one of the vaults below is seen the famous whipping¬
post,—that singular relic of former times.
The seats through the middle aisle of this church were
well filled with the poor, who appeared to he devout
worshippers.
^i)e Kational ©fallerp-—This is free to all and filled
with visitors every day. It contains a vast collection of
ancient and modern paintings. The works of Claude
and Murillo are peculiarly striking. The landscapes of
the first are so fresh, and his skies so clear, that they make
one feel as though they could almost breathe the atmo¬
sphere and catch the music of the breeze, the dash of the
wave, and the rippling of the stream. One portrait, by
Murillo, struck us with profound admiration. The very
eyes seemed to send forth rays of light, while tears in
drops were gathering round their lids. We stood spell-
3*
30
LONDON.
bound before the picture of this saint ; and the longer we
gazed the more lifelike it appeared.
ÎTÎjC Hogal —Here we saw a fine collection
of works of art of every kind,—full-length portraits
of celebrated persons, scenes historical and scriptural,
fresh from the pencils of distinguished artists, and
landscapes of exquisite beauty. Among the historical
pictures was the Embarkation of the Pilgrims,—truly
interesting to an American heart. There were many
new designs, calculated to inspire admiration in all
lovers of art. Among the specimens of sculpture of
the modern school there was one of Beatrice, or. The Last
Hours in a Cell, by Miss Hosmer, an American artist,
which is highly appreciated,—a lovely female figure
asleep upon a block of stone, with a form and an attitude
full of grace and beauty. There were busts innumerable
for the study of character and genius,—the philosopher,
the poet, the orator, and the statesman,—Tennyson's,
with bold and lofty brow, and Carlyle's with his charac¬
teristic expression.
5)t- âiaïUfS'S iPark-—We walked around this delight¬
ful spot, two miles in circumference, surrounded with
stately mansions of the nobility. Fronting it, is the queen's
palace, more solid and massive in its aspect than taste¬
ful in its design. Several military companies were on
parade around her majesty's dwelling. When she is at
home, her banner is seen floating upon its walls ; when
absent, it is withdrawn. The park is most charming,
designed with an elegance of taste which gives a finish
to all the ornamental grounds we have seen in England.
WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
31
In it, is an artificial lake studded with little islands and
adorned with a variety of trees. Upon its waters, were
flocks of ducks and graceful swans sporting in the liquid
element.
The trees planted here are not so magnificent as those
in the New World; the limbs of the elm, especially, are
more scraggy, and their foliage less dense. We saw
many specimens of American plants, tre.es, and shrubs ;
but to us they looked sickly and dwarfish. All the choice
flowers and shrubs are inclosed within iron railing, and
cultivated with great care. Were it not for the long days
of summer, nothing could mature in this climate ; but
with sixteen hours' sunshine, as they have in July, vege¬
tation makes rapid progress. Twilight scarcely disap¬
pears before day dawns.
2i2äeStmin!Stcr —We spent the rest of this day
among the monuments of the mighty dead. It will be
associated with a thousand memories through life. The
moment we entered the grounds inside the railing, we
walked over the pavement where slabs and inscriptions
literally cover the floor. The cloister attached is a
curious relic of by-gone days,—a gloomy mausoleum,
whose walls are covered with epitaphs, and whose dark cells
are fllled with the dead of early days. To see this mag¬
nificent Abbey, the burial-place of kings and queens for
centuries, is a great privilege; but to stand within its
walls and behold the immortality of genius stamped upon
its venerable monuments of classic beauty, is a still greater.
The Poets' Corner was more interesting to us than the
sepulchres of kings, producing emotions leading out
32
LONDON.
thoughts away from earth to the contemplation of divine
and holier things beyond, as we walked among its beau¬
tiful specimens of art, erected in honor of those whose
names and sentiments are as familiar as household words,
and whose thoughts are interwoven with the education
of youth throughout our country. We saw the corona¬
tion-chair, in which all the kings and queens of England
have been crowned,—a quaint old thing, with nothing to
recommend it but its use.
We stayed to attend service in the chapel, which is held
three times a day,—at eight and ten o'clock in the morn¬
ing, and at five in the evening. The grand and solemn
music of the organ, accompanied with the voices of the
boys who wait upon the priests, echoing through those
lofty arches, filled them with rich and pathetic music.
The clergy have a peculiar style of reading prayers,
closing each period with a singing tone, while the boys
respond, in a more musical note, A-m-e-n.
¿putgcon.—We have had the pleasure of hearing the
celebrated Baptist preacher, Spurgeon. He occupies, at
present, the large Music Hall in the Sm-rey Gardens.
The crowd of people which gathered there, was immense.
The streets were thronged with carriages, among which
were many belonging to the nobility. There were
about ten thousand present to hear this famous orator.
Seats were ticketed, and every place where a person
could stand was filled. It was a perfect sea of heads.
The house was crowded before the preacher appeared,
and when he entered, all eyes were fixed, and a profound
silence pervaded the Hall.
SPURGEON.
33
His person was commanding, with a broad chest, and
massive frame ; a head with fine black hair, elevated
brows, sharp eyes, and his whole countenance beaming
with an expression of bold independence mingled with
devotion and reverence. He read his hymns with a
peculiar pathos and simplicity, with a little of the Scotch
accent, making sometimes an allusion to the import of
the verse. He requested all to sing with the spirit, and
while the notes of the multitude went up like the voice
of many waters, it excited a universal sympathy. He
prayed most devoutly, and read a chapter in the Bible,
commenting freely upon it, in a deep, clear, full tone
of voice, much to the profit of his hearers. His sermon
was Calvinistic, delivered with great simplicity and ear¬
nestness. He appears to avoid studied eloquence, and
to clothe his ideas with language suited to his own taste,
rough or smooth,—attacking with unsparing hand all who
oppose the truth as he sees it. He sends out his arrows
with sarcastic skill, so as to create a smile, then turns
upon his adversary with a thunderbolt which is sure to be
felt. The people hung spell-bound upon his lips, and
were absorbed in his eloquence.
2Br. iîïcNfil.—We also heard this Episcopalian divine
from Liverpool, preach to the laboring-classes, in Exeter
Hall. The gathering was very great. We happened to
fall into the current, and, unable to extricate ourselves,
were borne along in the crowd until we reached the stairs,
where we were protected from injury by the kindness of
some gentlemen. The house was so crowded that we
could scarcely find seats in the gallery, and then we were
c
34
LONDON.
obliged to stand to get a sight of the preacher. Printed
hymns were distributed through the congregation for all
to sing. The sermon was evangelical, and delivered
with an earnestness much like that of the Methodist
preachers.
0l|í|)5Ííloah (Kljapcl.—This place of worship was to us
an object of still greater interest, and awakened feelings
of a very different character. My friend, Mrs. K ,
wiped the gushing tear from her eyes, as she recalled the
holy memories of the departed Wesley, so dear to every
heart that has been blessed by his influence in the light
of truth as it is in Christ Jesus. A simple monument
marks his resting-place; and close by is a slab which
covers the remains of Dr. Adam Clarke,—two of the
greatest men that have ever adorned the Church of Christ
and advanced its interests.
We worshiped in two other chapels, and heard very
good sermons, but not superior to those in America. The
churches are not so pleasant, being more clumsy, and
having higher pulpits. We did not like their style of
singing at all. Spurgeon has wisely adopted a more simple
manner, like the early Methodists.
i!rf)0 iSoolOflical ©arhens.—These Gardens are situated
in Regent's Park, one of the most delightful retreats in
the heart of London. A large portion of its grounds is
arranged in the most picturesque style, to suit the dif¬
ferent habitations of animals from all quarters of the
globe, and from the depths of the sea in
" the coral grove
Where the purple mullet and gold-fish rove."
THE BOTANICAL GARDENS.
35
And most curious indeed were those exhibited in glass
cisterns, where we could see them in coral beds working
in their native element. The rocks imbedded in the
water were wreathed with olive, green, and light-red
sea-weed, and seemingly sprinkled with sands of gold.
The bright sea anemone, fastened by its plant-like stem
upon the rock, throwing out its fringed petals of living,
moving substances of scarlet, amethyst, purple, and green,
in the form of flowers with a brilliancy rivaling, if possible,
those which bloom upon earth, displayed the power of
that infinite wisdom which originated these wonderful
creations, where the vegetable and animal kingdoms
seem to blend.
This Park, with its walks and refreshing shades, affords
for the multitudes which -throng them, one of the most
charming resources of pleasure as well as of improvement
in the natural history of our world.
üTlje ÍSotanícal ©îatïienis.—These were detached from
the other, requiring separate tickets, with which we were
not provided ; but, fortunately, through the politeness of
a gentleman in office, a member of the Wesleyan Church,
acquainted with our position as Americans, we were
granted a free admittance.
The grounds are laid out with great taste for the dis¬
play of natural productions ; and here every thing which
can be made to grow and bloom in the open air or in con¬
servatories, is to be found. Beautiful indeed, was the
sight of this world of wonders. We observed in some
of the natural arbors, a tree called the Weeping Ash, of
thick foliage, with its limbs drooping to the ground, form-
36
LONDON.
ing a beautiful ornament as well as cooling shade. We
entered a charming little Gothic building, designed for
lecture-rooms as well as a museum, which contained a great
variety of specimens from the world of nature,—some
very beautiful skeletons of leaves and flowers, entirely
detached from their fleshy substances, yet retaining their
shapes in a white, fibrous net-work, like gauze of the most
exquisite delicacy.
Ci)e iitagnttube of Eonbon.—The more we see of
London, the more we are impressed with its magnitude
and extent. In sailing down the Thames from King's
Bridge, to visit the Tower and Tunnel, we were struck
with astonishment at its stupendous buildings, its palaces,
warehouses, docks, and shipping. Its vast population
swarms like bees, in every kind of business. London,
within itself, is a world of might and power, and, although
advanced in years, exhibits no marks of decay, but is
still vigorous and strong, increasing in all that gives
wealth and power.
®i)C Cotoet,—We passed through the arched gateways
of this invulnerable fortress with emotions of awe mingled
with terror, caused by the recollection of the distinguished
prisoners once immured within its walls. But the scenes
are now so changed that these halls have become exhi¬
bition-rooms for the display of military appliances, and the
spoils of past ages. In the white tower are equestrian
statues of all the Kings of England in full costume,
from the earliest times. Their armors of steel are kept
bright and shining. The walls and ceilings are orna¬
mented with weapons of warfare arranged and fastened in
QUEEN ELIZABETH'S ROOM.
87
beautiful designs, in which the most awkward and clumsy
are made to contribute to the harmony of the whole, like
a finished piece of tapestry.
Some of the rooms above were filled with the trophies
of Eastern conquests, exhibiting the magnificence of
Oriental splendor,—coats of mail embroidered with
gold, for voluptuous princes ; robes and cloaks of the
most costly silks ; weapons of war ornamented with gold
of exquisite workmanship, kept in a glass case of a table
form, supported at its corners by columns of bayonets.
The whole room was lined with the costly armor of the
Eastern world.
ii^UCCn 3Sll^abet|)'0 îSoom bears the emblems of her
power. Her equestrian statue presents her in full cos¬
tume in the regal style of the reign. The dark, solitary
cell is close by in which Sir Walter Raleigh was con¬
fined eleven years by her despotism, from which he went
to the block for execution. This block is still kept there,
bringing back the memories of the past, with its tragic
scenes in all their gloominess and horror. Contiguous
is the room of torture with its reign of terror written
upon its walls.
We saw the regalia, the crown jewels, and the famous
Kohinoor diamond. Diamonds were sparkling upon
costly crowns ; but how many a beating heart and throb¬
bing pulse has been felt under all these insignia of
royalty! In all this display, we saw nothing equal
to the simple wreath of republican freedom which
crowned the brows of the illustrious Washington and
his successors. AYe have no such splendid relics of anti-
i
38
LONDON.
quity,—no baptismal font of gold for royal children;
but every one is born equally a royal heir to power.
Though sprinkled in the log cabin of the wilderness, or
immersed in the running stream, all are privileged to
aspire to the first positions of our country, even to the
Presidential chair.
Cunnel.—Through narrow streets and by lofty
warehouses, we made our way to the passage under the
Thames. We entered the round tower at the opening,
and, descending a winding staircase of more than a hun¬
dred steps, were ushered into a beautiful, well-lighted
archway, where the sound of music with its sweet melo¬
dies, burst upon our ear. It seemed like an enchanted
palace or grotto fitted up for amusement. Small shops
and stalls lined the passage, where all kinds of trinkets
and fancy articles for keepsakes, as well as refreshments,
were for salé. The ball-room for parties of pleasure,
was not forgotten. There are two archways through
the Tunnel. The revenue from this stupendous work
must be received from visitors, as its object as a great
thoroughfare seems entirely defeated.
St- iPaul'S datl^ebtal.—This noble edifice with its
swelling dome rising in grandeur above the city, from its
commanding height, gives the spectator some idea of the
vast extent of London spread out below for miles around,
like a map. Although its walls are thick and massive,
there is an airiness and grace in its structure which di¬
vest it of all gloominess within. The light pouring in
from its graceful dome produces a fine eSect, imparting
life and spirit to the scriptural scenes upon its ceiling.
THE GREAT IRON STEAMSHIP.
39
The conversion of St. Paul appears to advantage. The
•whispering-gallery is startling in its eíFects. To put one's
lips to the wall, and to have the whispered words dis¬
tinctly heard round that vast rotunda, is surprising.
Monuments of great beauty adorn this church. The
one erected to the memory of Bishop Heber is simple in
design, but rich in thought : he is represented in the
midst of a group, confirming two East Indian boys.
Another, representing the burial of Sir John Moore,
is exquisite. Lord Nelson's, and others of England's
heroes, are highly ornamented. The Duke of Welling¬
ton's is yet to be erected. We entered the crypt below
and saw where their remains are laid, and walked among
the gloomy vaults whose floors are paved with comme¬
morative slabs, and whose walls are lined with the epitaphs
of the mighty dead. Not the least among them was that
of Sir Christopher Wren, the grand architect of this mag¬
nificent building, a monument of his fame.
" Death, great proprietor of all ! 'tis thine
To tread out empires and to quench the stars."
******
" What is this world ?
What, but a spacious burial-field unwall'd,
Strew'd with death's spoils."
STfie (Srcat iron Strant0f)ip.—Well may it be called
an "epic of iron,"—a sublime sentiment fully realized in
this mammoth ship. It is a complete poem. There it stood
in majestic grandeur, towering above all the other ships by
its side and reducing them to pigmies. We ascended its
deck by a winding staircase sixty feet in height, and had
40
LONDON.
a full view of its vast dimensions, which fill one with
astonishment. What a home upon the mighty deep ! It is
a floating palace upon the ocean, where the motion of the
waves and the jarring elements of wind and storm could
scarcely be felt. The mind expanded with the idea of
the achievements of intellectual power in the domain of
science. To see what can be accomplished by its creative
energies, leads one back to the Source from whence all
gifts are derived.
Fourteen hundred workmen came pouring out from its
sides, in regular file, to dinner. Two thousand, it was said,
had been employed at a time. We walked over the upper
deck, six hundred and ninety-two feet in length,—a prome¬
nade long enough to break the monotony of any sea-
voyage. It was not finished ; but we were enabled to
judge of what it would be. It is designed to carry four
thousand passengers ; and for elegance and comfort,
nothing seems to be wanting to make its accommodations
complete,
liiarontal lÄtsthtnce of a iüofilentan.—This palace is
on one of the great landed estates occupied at present by
a London banker, who invited us to spend a few days in
his family. The picturesque scenery of this country sur¬
passes the most lively description. We entered the
grounds through an arched gateway attached to a lodge
of massive stone, where a porter was in waiting to open
the gate for our carriage to pass. We drove through the
park, up one of the most beautiful avenues bordered
with the spreading linden whose dense foliage formed
RESIDENCE OF A NOBLEMAN.
41
almost an arch, to the mansion where servants in livery
were in attendance.
We were most politely received by the host and hostess,
who relieved us from all embarrassment by their making
us feel perfectly at home. We were introduced to a
London barrister, a Master of the Queen's Bench, and his
lady, very agreeable and intelligent persons, who were
here on a visit.
Sabbath morning we attended the village church,
called "the Church of My Lady," built by the Normans
seven hundred years ago,—a long, narrow, antiquated
stone edifice, with only two rows of seats, with a narrow
aisle between. At one end was a gallery for the organ
and choir, at the other the altar. The seats near the
altar, fronting each other, were for the lords and ladies.
Near the center, upon one side, was the pulpit. The con¬
gregation was plain-looking, and appeared to be devout,
resembling the Methodists of olden time. All of them
joined in singing, and the village preacher gave us a
good evangelical sermon. The parsonage attached to
the church was a quaint, interesting building, embowered
in shade. In the churchyard were many ancient monu¬
ments with time-honored memories. Some were over¬
grown with moss ; from others, time, in the lapse of many
centuries, had erased all inscriptions. The creeping ivy
richly clustering upon the walls, and the dark evergreen
yew scattered around, seemed to cast a hallowed influence
over the place.
Fronting the wings on each side of the palace were
long, narrow avenues, with tall, overarching trees, inter-
4"^
42 LONDOX.
laced at the top, forming an impenetrable shade, through
which we could look when standing at the entrance, as
through the vast colonnade of some ancient temple. The
statue of the goddess Diana was placed upon a pedestal
of stone on one side, near the hunting-grounds,—a
beautiful forest on the declivity of the hill. The other
opened into the most verdant lawn, so closely shaven
that it had the appearance of green velvet. Wild deer
tripping in droves through the park, and sheep feeding
in the distant pastures, gave a finishing touch to this
lovely picture, inspiring to all true lovers of nature.
The vegetable-garden with its rustic cottage for the
gardener, its conservatories and wall-fruits, the flower-
garden with gravel walks among sylvan scenes in all the
variety of light and shade, fresh fountains of water
flowing among rocks, fenced around by natural roots of
trees, grottoes in all the varieties which fancy could sug¬
gest, natural arbors, rustic benches, statuary, costly
paintings, and every kind of ornament,—all combined to
gratify the lordly owner of the splendid mansion. Upon
the sunny side of the house, a Magnolia Grandiflora,
trained up to the very roof, with its magnificent flowers,
reminded us of our far-ofl" home in Louisiana.
But all these improvements and earthly possessions
were incapable of satisfying the noble lord, in conse¬
quence of domestic inquietude ; and he had left them
with all their appendages, to seek happiness abroad,—
showing the utter insufficiency of earthly enjoyments to
satisfy the cravings of an immortal mind.
We were much pleased with the hospitality of the près-
THE GREAT GLOBE.
48
ent family. The lady presided with ease and dignity,
and her accomplished daughter contributed to the enter¬
tainment of her guests with courtesy and grace. Not¬
withstanding there were numbers of servants in waiting,
they often came to our rooms to see if any thing was
wanting. Our chambers were furnished with every con¬
venience for writing or sewing, even to thimbles, scissors,
and needles.
We drove back through a village, amid scenes of rural
beauty contrasting with the magnificent park, which the
English lords know so well how to embellish. In this
landed estate are two thousand acres, under the highest
state of cultivation. The mansion, by modern improve¬
ments,—upon which the noble lord has spent vast sums of
money,—has lost its ancestral bearing, much to its in¬
jury; but the grounds are most delightful, presenting
such a variety of woods, hills, streams, and lawns,—
" That, the eye drinks in the prospect,"
forever charming.
©reat ©loht.—London is inexhaustible in its
resources for amusement. The Great Globe, in Leices¬
ter Square, is well worth a visit. It is a large, circular
ljuilding, forty or fifty feet high, with a dome in which
is represented a miniature world. Upon a circular frame
with platforms in three distinct stories, are placed seats,
upon which persons sit and listen to a lecturer, who
explains each portion of the earth. One who had studied
geography quite considerably, would, at this place, gain
many new ideas of our world.
44
LONDON.
Below, around the machinery, are large niches, where
all the nations of the earth are represented in native
costumes and with their domestic apparatus, upon which
another lecturer discourses. There are two wings at¬
tached to this building, where was exhibited a most
gorgeous panorama of the battles of Sebastopol, and a
moonlight scene of the burial-place of the dead ; also one,
of the Oriental cities and scenes of the conflict in India.
Etie ^olgtecfinic J^all —was another place in which
we were entertained with astronomical diagrams and most
beautiful representations of the heavenly bodies. A great
number of mechanical appliances were exhibited,—among
which was the diving-bell. A large reservoir of water
was open in a room below, into which a man made a
descent with it.
But it would be in vain to attempt to enumerate all the
contrivances to stimulate curiosity or excite wonder.
Every thing that can be invented to make money, is per¬
fected in London ; and, if people must be amused, it is
better to have resources of improvement like these.
IStitigf) ülusrum contains antiquities and objects
of natural history enough to occupy the minds of the
curious and investigating for months.
The building, itself like a palace, is designed to ex¬
hibit the wonders of nature and art to the best advantage.
Its galleries and saloons are so extensive that it would
be idle for the tourist to think of passing through them
even once, to examine with accuracy its different objects.
We could look at but a few of the most prominent. The
precious gems were exceedingly rich and valuable. One
THE QUEEN AND THE ROYAL FAMILY. 45
stone was estimated at a thousand guineas. We were
shown a piece of an Egyptian jasper, one end of which
was broken oS", and in its delicate coloring, it exhibited
the profile of the human face ; and, from its fancied re¬
semblance to the poet Chaucer, it is called the Chaucer
Stone. The galleries of antiquities with the colossal
statues of Egypt and Nineveh, their obelisks, mummies,
and heads of sphynxes, were the most interesting. It
was like transporting the mind back to the days of Jonah
and the Pharaohs.
Cf)c (iluten anh ti)t Mogal jFamilg.—We saw the
queen and her family as they were leaving Buckingham
Palace for the Isle of Wight, her summer residence. We
were walking in St. James's Park, and had a good op¬
portunity to see the royal carriages as they passed.
She sent on her youngest children with their nurses
in carriages before the rest ; the queen. Prince Albert,
and her eldest daughters followed. Her maids of
honor were in a black, omnibus-like carriage by them¬
selves. Black is a distinguishing color for carriages
among the nobility. The state carriage is of scarlet and
gold, and is used only on public occasions. There was
nothing glaring in this cortege. It was a private drive,
such as she is constantly taking, although a military
parade attends all her outgoings and incomings.
In many things Victoria is an example to her sex, and
her subjects love her for her domestic virtues. One of her
officers told us she was up early every morning attending
to her business, and might be seen among her servants
and maidens. She breakfasts at eight in the morning.
46
LONDON.
and takes exercise in the open air every day, as do also
her children. We saw all their little ponies and carriages.
There is one thing worthy of admiration among the
aristocracy of England,—and we have seen thousands of
them in public places,—the. simple manner of dressing
children and young misses, suited to their years. Many
a planter's daughter comes out of a plain domicile with
more flaunting colors and parade of dress than is seen
coming from a baronial mansion. We have visited their
beautiful parks and public places of resort,—in Hyde
Park are seen the splendid equipages of the titled nobility,
who drive there every evening,—Ladies are also seen
riding on horseback with an elegance and grace which
distinguish them from all other people,—on every occasion
we remarked that the nobility were distinguished by their
livery, not by their dress ; for that, as a general thing, is
plain. Industry and economy, too, mark the English
character : they are above the vulgar idea that work
lessens it. The queen is never idle ; and London is the
busiest place we have ever seen.
iHahatne Cugsauh's ÍSifiihitíon of SHax dFiflures.—
The resemblance which the figures in this extensive col¬
lection bear to the originals, is said to be very striking.
The galleries were surrounded by magnificent mirrors,
paintings, gilded cornices, beautiful columns, and velvet
draperies, with figures of poets, philosophers, statesmen,
and generals, in various postures, so lifelike that we felt
as if they must speak, and we must do them reverence.
There were groups of the kings and queens of England
in their regal costumes, from George I. to Victoria. In
WAX FIGURES.
47
one room, near the vestibule, we saw the Duke of Welling¬
ton lying in state, under a canopy of velvet lined with
white satin, and supported by a gilded cornice. His cloak
of velvet, thrown gracefully over his person, fell in ample
folds to the floor ; his military coat of scarlet and gold, his
hat, and some of his arms, were lying beside him. His
countenance very much resembled that of our venerable
Bishop Soule,—the brow especially. His expression was
calm,—the very majesty of death.
Every room was glowing with life almost startling.
There was Voltaire, in his own character, the
"witty, profligate, and thin;"
Hume, with his grave expression ; Shakspeare, with
his lofty brow, and deep, dreamy look of poetic beauty ;
Louis XVI., with the unintellectual head of a locksmith ;
and the lovely Queen Maria Antoinette, with almost
angelic beauty. Six rooms were fllled with historic per¬
sonages,—Bonaparte, in his court, exile, and death. In
a separate room were the spoils taken upon the grounds
of Waterloo ; among which was his carriage, with all the
traveling-apparatus attached to it,—a vehicle which he
designed for himself, wherein he could sleep, eat, and write.
In the last room was exhibited the Reign of Terror in
France. Lingering too long over some scenes, it became
too late for us to see all. There was Marat, reeking in
his blood, as just killed by Charlotte Corday ; and many
other characters of that period. John Wesley was placed
with the distinguished characters of the reign of George
HI.
48
LONDON.
Cije Öirgstal palace, spent one day
at Sydenham, in the same building in which was held the
World's Fair, at Hyde Park, in 1851. It is now a place
of public resort for the amusement of the people. Its
halls and gardens are of matchless beauty. This light
and airy structure, so beautiful in its design, and so exqui¬
site in its workmanship, surpasses imagination. It is a
great work of genius, complete in all its parts. Its long
galleries are lined with groups of statuary, in their varied
costumes. The aborigines of North and South America,
dancing and lying in ambush among their native rocks,
hills, trees, plants, and animals, are so lifelike that they
appear like reality itself.
The animal and vegetable kingdoms from every part
of the world appeared to be represented. Vases of para¬
sitic plants were suspended from lofty arches by almost
invisible wires, throwing down their rich but delicate
tendrils, as if to imbibe moisture from the atmosphere
below. Along the aisles were rows of orange-trees, with
fruits, and flowers, and beautiful clumps of evergreen
shrubs. Winding staircases lead to the third story filled
with the wonders of art, from which we could look down
upon the enchanting scenes below. One gallery was for
the colossal statues brought from Egypt and Assyria;
and one for paintings.
The works without surpass, if possible, those within.
The gardens, lakes, islands, and fountains, cover an area
of two hundred acres. The great fountain is said to be
the largest in the world. The iron water-tower sends
forth a volume of water rushing down over rocks, forming
CRYSTAL PALACE.
49
a series of cascades six hundred feet in length, and a
cataract one hundred and twenty feet broad, with a fall
of thirty feet. The fountains playing in the evening form
a brilliant scene. It was said there were a thousand in
motion at once. One rose two hundred and eighty feet,
throwing up volumes of spray which fell in graceful
curves to the ground. The smaller fountains—some
rolling upon one another like waves of the sea, some in
fantastic shapes forming a net-work of feathery spray—
were constructed in every form fancy could suggest.
Beneath the cascades were arched grottoes, where people
could enter to see the spray as the water fell over the
rocks. The water-temples, sixty feet high, were exqui¬
sitely beautiful, of octagonal shape, with a fanciful dome
ornamented with gilt and bronze figures at the top. The
water flowed over the roof and sides, glittering like a
thousand diamonds in the rays of the sun.
There were ten thousand people, the pride of Great
Britain,—noble lords and noble ladies, dukes and duch¬
esses,—to witness this magnificent display of art. We
had a fine opportunity to observe characters as well as
things. There was a concert in the palace, by the
queen's opera-performers, to entertain visitors.
The prospect from Sydenham Palace reminded us of
that seen from the observatory of the armory at Spring¬
field, Mass., overlooking the Connecticut Valley. This
commands a view of the mountains of Wales in the dis¬
tant perspective, and the great city of London in its hazy
atmosphere of smoke. The whole landscape around is
exceedingly rich and beautiful.
D 5
50
LONDOX.
JHanners antr iíTíocals.—We feel quite at home
among these people, speaking our own language and re¬
sembling so much those of our own country. In no in¬
stance have we met with any rudeness : so far as our
observation goes, we have found them willing to commu¬
nicate, social, and kind. Our hostess, an Episcopalian
lady of interesting manners, is constant in her endeavors
to make us happy.
Regent Street seems a little like Broadway, in New
York. The shops are like rows of extended palaces.
One thing surprised us in London,—to find so few Wes-
leyan chapels. The residents of London do not appear
to be a church-going people. Great efforts are being
made by the Established Church to enlighten and reform
the lower classes ; and the old Wesleyan plan of street-
preaching has been revived. We met a very respectable
looking clergyman, with his Bible, explaining the truth to
a multitude gathered around him, while a lady among
the crowd was distributing tracts. The religious wants
of the great metropolis do not appear to be well supplied.
212Äri3tminSicr âlbiicg.—We went again to this noble
pile of buildings, to wander among the tombs of the poets-
There stood the statue of Shakspeare upon his marble
monument, with a scroll written in his own language, so
applicable to the place :—
"The cloud-capp'd towers, the gorgeous palaces,
The solemn temples, the great globe itself,
Yea, all which it inherits, shall dissolve.
And, like the baseless fabric of a vision,
Leave not a wreck behind."
CHAPTER III.
NORTHERN ENGLAND.
Cîfiatstoori^.—In our route from London we passed
through Warwick, but saw only at a distance the towers
of its celebrated castle. We spent one night in the flour¬
ishing city of Birmingham, with its teeming population
and its beautiful streets and houses. The country through
which we passed unfolded its charms by cultivation in
every nook and corner where a foot of land could be
seen. The grounds along the railways were planted with
little patches of flowers and vegetables. The cottagers
avail themselves of every inch of earth ; and where a
flower can take root it is made to grow, giving a charm
to the rustic dwellings, and pleasure to the traveler.
The scenery around the palace of Chatsworth upon
the river Wye, blends the picturesque and grand into
that harmony which distinguishes nature in her happiest
moods. Never could a place be chosen in its native
wildness better suited for the display of art than this
beautiful valley, surrounded by its romantic blufis and
lovely, undulating hills. The palace, embosomed in such
a place, presents a most attractive appearance ; while
its historical associations with the Cavendish family,
and the imprisonment of Mary, Queen of Scots, give the
place a peculiar interest, independent of its unrivaled
51
52 NORTHERN ENGLAND.
elegance. The river Wye, in its serpentine course,
winds along this rich valley luxuriant in vegetation,
adding beauty to a landscape diversified with nature's
loveliest charms. Large droves of deer were feeding
upon its shaven lawns, heightening its picturesque beauty.
Its grounds—all under the highest state of cultivation—
embrace a compass of eleven miles. Its parks are lovely
beyond description. Its refreshing shades, gravel walks,
and sparkling fountains adorned with statuary, all contri¬
bute to render the scene unsurpassed. Craggy cliffs and
the tower upon the wooded height form the background of
the picture. We ascended this height, by winding stone
steps upon an almost perpendicular ledge, from which it
was frightful to look down The prospect of the valley
with its noble pile of buildings, is truly grand and amply
repaid us for our effort. The forest upon the height had
been a fávorite hunting-ground. The tower, we were
told, was an observatory for ladies to watch the chase.
We took our way back by a different route through a
beautiful forest of trees, descending by a less precipitous
path to the valley.
We visited a place called Mary's Bower, built of stone,
embowered among lofty trees of many years' growth,
and surrounded by water. It was reached by stone steps,
where, upon the top, the exiled queen could sit undis¬
turbed and enjoy the freshness of the air and the beauty
of the surrounding scenery.
^alact has a modern but imposing aspect, and its
interior d¿es justice to its splendid design. Its galleries
of sculpture and painting are depositories of art by
MARY'S BOWER, CHATSWORTH.
CHATS WORTH.
55
many of the old masters. The one for painting has one
thousand original drawings from the pencils of the first
artists. In one room we saw some fine specimens of
carving in oak,—birds and fiowers of exquisite beauty,
most delicately wrought.
The gallery of sculpture, one hundred and three feet
in length, was filled with some of the most lovely forms
from the ancient and modern schools. Bonaparte, his
mother, and Pauline were among the distinguished per¬
sonages ; a bust of Edward Everett, by Powers, was
there also. The multitude and splendor of the rooms
surpass description. There were a few relics of interest
to be seen,—among them a canopy embroidered by the
Countess of Shrewsbury, a wardrobe^ of Louis XIV.,
and the bed upon which George II. died. Every room
was filled with gems of art.
The gardens attached were of matchless beauty, and
the conservatories filled with the most rare exotics of
every clime. One garden contained the conservatory
from which the great Crystal Palace of London was
modeled. We saw there the Victoria Regia, kept in its
native atmosphere,—so warm that we could scarcely in¬
hale it without a profuse perspiration. In the Italian and
kitchen gardens, fruits from nearly every clime, were
brought to perfection. Its pineapples were the largest
we ever saw. Peaches and all kinds of fruits trained to
the walls, and vegetables of every description, were grow¬
ing in rich luxuriance. Not a spot of ground but was
improved by some suggestion of fancy. We walked
through grounds of artificial wildness so perfect, piles of
5«
54
NORTHERN ENGLAND.
rock, gushing fountains, and dark romantic recesses of
evergreen woods so natural, that one could hardly suspect
that the hand of art had placed them there. One foun-
tain was called the weeping willow,—a tree composed of
steel tubes, which resembled the sleet of winter, pouring
out water from every twig. The fountains in the private
gardens also were very beautiful.
?ll?at)bon an Ancient liluin.—Leaving Chats-
worth with its scenes of rural and picturesque beauty,
we passed through some villages of most antiquated ap¬
pearance, as if built when their ancestors were subject to
the feudal lords. The people looked very poor; and
their houses, although built of stone, appeared in decay.
The castle was a massive stone structure, in a most
romantic place upon the banks of the Wye, and almost
embowered in a dense shade of magnificent trees of
many years' growth. What a contrast did this castle of
olden times present to the palace we had just left, in its
modern elegance and princely splendor !
Here we saw the relics of the lordly power of the
Middle Ages. Its walls were hung with tapestry wrought
in curious designs by the Vernon family; and, though
faded, they were exceedingly rich with their figures still
distinct. The rude oaken chests and cupboards, and all
the furniture which remains, bear the marks of the age
in which they were used,—a mixture of barbarism and
elegance. The dining-room, halls, kitchen, and cellars
were equally characteristic, exhibiting their domestic
customs. The ball-room was the most highly finished.
The chambers in the towers used for dormitories or pri-
IIADDON HALL.
57
vate apartments, were cold and cheerless, like a prison,
with rude-looking doors and narrow stone steps. The
prospects from the turrets were beautiful and command¬
ing, overlooking a rich, fertile valley, relieved by hills
and woodlands.
The walls around, though composed of huge, massive
stones, are now yielding to decay. Many have fallen,
hut enough remain to tell of its strength in the days of
its glory. It had an open court, now darkened by trees
grown up thick around it. A window is shown where
Di Vernon eloped with her lover and made her escape
over the wall from this court,—as mentioned in Scott's
novels. A bust of Grace Manners—a celebrated charac¬
ter in her day—is still preserved in one of the rooms.
The date of this ruin is not known. Some portions of
it appear to exhibit the style of Elizabeth's reign ; and
a portrait and a bed of hers, with some other articles of
furniture, adorn one room. " Sir Richard Vernon was
called the King of the Peak, and dwelt here in the year
1425."
The chapel is a perfect curiosity. Its little square
boxes for seats, the chaplain's desk or pulpit with a con¬
fessional behind it, the large oaken chest for the treasures
of the sanctuary with its rude carvings, are a history in
themselves and ail impressive illustration of the customs
of the times. The chaplain's chamber was a gloomy-
looking cell, more like a prison than a place of comfort.
Within there were many ancient articles of costume and
furniture stowed away, among which were a pair of huge
boots in good preservation, a gun and some ancient armor.
58
NORTHERN ENGLAND.
a dinner-service of pewter, large dishes of various sizes,
and a cradle used for the first Duke of Rutland, very rude
and rough. We wandered through these gloomy halls with
deep and intense interest. They are said to have sug¬
gested to Mrs. Radclifif's imagination, the romantic ideas
of the "Mysteries of Udolpho and no place could be
found better suited to produce such an effect. For here,
by the aid of these suggestive ruins, the fancy might
revel in a world of its own creations, and picture to itself
the wildest dreams of the imagination.
Leaving this romantic pile of the Middle Ages, with its
walls mellowed by time and moss-grown with age, with
impressions upon the mind not soon to be effaced, we
drove through a most romantic country of deep glens and
thickly-wooded hills, to Buxton, a celebrated watering-
place, and from thence took public conveyance for the
classic lakes of Devonshire.
J9ebíin0Í)Írt.—The first impression is all that the ima¬
gination, from its associations with the gifted minds of
Southey, Wordsworth, and Coleridge, could suggest.
Every rippling of the wave, every rock, hill, and vine-
clad tower, every leaflet which trembled in the breeze,
was full of poetry. It was written upon the roof of every
lowly cottage or antiquated hall, upon every hedge and
walk, every wood-crowned height and running stream.
öToltrthge'S i^omc.—We visited the antiquated church
of Grasmere, in which Wordsworth was a constant wor¬
shiper. A tablet to his memory is erected there, bear¬
ing the simple name—"Wordsworth;" and also to other
members of his family who lie buried around him. From
RYDAL MOUNT.
59
this spot we drove to the residence of Coleridge,—a
unique-looking cottage, with the marks of more than a
century upon it, with its roof and its old-fashioned
chimney on one side of the house entirely covered with
creeping ivy. It was singular in shape and structure,
and so closely built upon the road as to allow of but a
few feet of earth for the cultivation of shrubs or flowers,
and divested of all poetical beauty except in its drapery
of ivy.
íHouní.—Thence we sought the far-famed
Rydal Mount, almost embowered in shade of vines, flow¬
ering shrubs, and trees. We walked up the avenue and
over the undulating grounds, laid out with the poet's char¬
acteristic taste for rural beauty. One little mound with
a rustic seat, commanding a lovely view of the lake and
the variegated hills and woodlands around, must have
been a favorite haunt of his. We thought, while sitting
there, what communion he must have held with his muse
in a place so inspiring, so full of beauty. His cottage
was mantled with ivy clinging to its walls and roof, and
wreathing its windows and doors everywhere. Other
creeping vines and flowering shrubs cluster around the
threshold in rich profusion. The very air was fragrant
with the breath of flowers.
212äorhStoocii)'0 5i2Ethob3.—We were favored with an
interview with Mrs. Wordsworth, the widow of the poet.
She had been walking for recreation, Avith a young lady
as her companion, in the private grounds where no one
is allowed to enter. They came out and took their seats
upon a rustic bench beneath a tree where we had been
60
NORTHERN ENGLAND.
sitting. Introducing ourselves as Americans, we were
received most graciously and made welcome to her rural
walks and flower-gardens, which occupied considerable
ground around her dwelling. She was the personification
of trembling age. Her countenance, which once must
have been full of animation and life, wore the tinge of
sadness, and her eyes were almost closed in blindness.
She spoke of her physical change, and appeared sensitive
of the impression made upon strangers. She looked
more like the inhabitant of another world than this, so
pale and thin.
We left her and her cottage of rural loveliness with
emotions of mingled joy and sorrow, thankful to have
been so highly favored, as, without letters of introduction,
to see one, so soon to pass away, who was so long the ray
of light to one already gone to the spirit-world. She has
long since refused to see strangers, on account of the
failure of her vision.
CHAPTER IV.
SCOTLAND.
íEÍJtniUtgi).—This city with its rocks, hills, and val¬
leys, is full of historic associations. At every turn the
eye meets some monument of antiquity invested with the
history, poetry, or romance of earlier days. The bold
and lofty crags, crowned by the majestic castle over¬
looking the city, are grand beyond description. The
monument of Burns is seen in an elevated position
well fitting his genius, while the classic spire of Sir Walter
Scott's rises in artistic beauty from the streets below, to
meet the eye of a stranger on entering the city.
We ascended the castle almost to its height by a
winding path, and the rest of the way by steps cut in the
rock. The view from thence is grand and imposing : the
whole city below lies like a map before you, like London
from the dome of St. Paul's.
In one of its towers are the crown jewels, a coro¬
nation-ring of Charles I., his sword, and scepter set with
brilliants, and other gems of great value. The por¬
traits of Mary—radiant with youthful beauty—and
Darnley were hanging upon the walls. Every thing
within and around this mighty fortress, the birthplace of
James I., is full of interest. Above its lofty towers,
rise the bold, majestic rocks called Salisbury Craigs,
61
62
SCOTLAND.
which encircle the city on one side like a wall of defence ;
around them, and leading past Arthur's Seat and the
famous Holyrood Castle, is a road called the Queen's
Drive, which commands a grand panoramic view of the
romantic and variegated scenes below.
?i?olgrcio"Ö íüasíle.—We traversed its halls with deep
emotions, saddened by the memories of its tragic history
in connection with its beautiful and unfortunate queen.
We were shown the room she occupied, several pieces of
needle-work wrought by her own fingers, and the furni¬
ture in her boudoir. As specimens of the royal equipage
of the time, we observed a table, some chairs, her bed,
bedsteads, and some thin, faded drapery falling in pieces
with the dust of years,—all unique and curious. We saw
also the room in which the tragic scene of Rizzio's murder
occurred, with the stains of blood still upon the floor. The
private staircase which led to it from the chapel has been
walled up. The chapel, though in ruins, is the finest
part of the building. Its altar-piece, its tablets, and the
monuments for the dead, are exceedingly beautiful. Its
roof has fallen, and it is exposed to^^the air; yet its
"Walls of antique mold
Tell the proud tale of days of old."
This palace has been fitted up for the queen ; but when
she visits Scotland she seems to prefer the Highlands for
their romantic beauty and quiet.
(iîcatginillai: ©asile, associated also with Mary, Queen
of Scots, is a most interesting ruin. It is a massive
building with a strong tower flanked with turrets, com¬
manding a fine view of Edinburgh and of the Frith of
ROSLYN CIIAnCL.
63
Forth. In this castle Mary resided when she first re¬
turned from France. In one of the turrets we were
shown a little room with a fireplace and two windows,
once occupied by Queen Mary : it was five feet in breadth
and seven in length. When this castle was built, or by
whom, is not known : the oldest date upon the walls is
1427. Mary was residing in it in 1566. Here the am¬
bitious Bothwell projected the plan of a divorce between
Mary and Darnley. The situation is very beautiful: the
grounds are elevated, and its ancient walls seem to bid
defiance to the ravages of time. Dark and gloomy, like
some of the deeds which transpired within, it develops
the character of the times, and forms one of the most
attractive objects of interest in the environs of Edinburgh.
Koslgn ÖTtjapel.—A few miles from Edinburgh, is
situated this beautiful and elegant building of olden time,
exhibiting, it is said, the finest specimens of early archi¬
tectural ornament now extant. It stands upon the brow
of a hill, in a most romantic spot, on the side of a rocky
glen thickly wooded with firs, at the bottom of which
winds a small stream called the Esk. The castle with
its towers and turrets, has been destroyed, except a few
underground rooms and cells and dilapidated walls, which
are left to tell of its feudal power. The chapel was
founded in 1446, and dedicated to St. Matthew. Its
beautiful columns and arches are most exquisitely wreathed
with fiowers and leaves of the richest foliage. Many
figures of scriptural illustration are finely carved. In
one archis the ''Dance of Death," so designed that all the
figures are distinctly seen.
r,
64
SCOTLAND,
The chief object of attraction is the "Apprentice s Pil¬
lar," which tradition has invested with a peculiar interest.
It was finished in the absence of the master, and was so
exquisitely beautiful that when he returned, and saw it
surpass his own design, he was so filled with envy that he
killed the boy on the spot ; and the story is represented on
the walls, to confirm the monkish tale. The base is sur¬
rounded by dragons chained by the heads and twisted
into each other ; while four wreaths of flowers of the most
beautiful workmanship twine round the column. The
capital has Abraham's ofiering of Isaac. This pillar is
the admiration of all artists of modern times. The whole
building is replete with architectural beauties. In the
crypt below lie buried the Barons of Koslyn in their
armor, according to the customs of the family and the
times.
^bboiSforït.—Thirty-five miles from Edinburgh are
Abbotsford, Dryburgh, and Melrose Abbey, forever to
be associated with the undying fame of Scott, whose
genius has tinged with rainbow hues every tower, turret,
moidering wall, and fretted vault of these ancient castles.
Every year the tourist will be seen wending his way to
these antiquated halls of romantic beauty while the name
of Scott shall last. The lovely Tweed winds its way
around these hills, investing each scene with increasing
interest, and throwing a fresh charm over the varied
landscape ; while the scarlet poppy and the blue bells of
Scotland gem each field with their brilliant petals, and
wreath the roadside with their clustering blossoms.
Abbotsford without, has a finished antique form ; but
ABBOTSFORD.
65
within, it has the appearance of a private gentleman's
modern residence. The parlor contains full-length por¬
traits of all the family. In a circular glass-case table
are valuable presents from kings and princes, and a snuff¬
box once belonging to Burns. The rooms shown to
strangers, with their vast collection of antiquities, resemble
a museum. The clothes which Scott last wore are kept
in a glass case as relics. His library is large and well
filled. In one room of this castle resides his grand¬
daughter, who married a London barrister, but retains
the name and all the possessions of Scott.
JBrgfiursf).—Dryburgh Abbey, where Scott is interred,
is nine miles from Abbotsford. The tomb is in just such
a place as would harmonize with his taste and cha¬
racter,—
" Encompass'd round
With wood, and flow of streams, and interchange
Of glade and glen and bolder range
Of mountains."
Although the towers and walls of Dryburgh are mostly
fallen, and the arches broken, yet enough remains to tell
of its ancient magnitude and grandeur. Some parts are
still seen towering up,—broken fragments covered with
creeping vines. One lofty wall, called St. Catharine's
Wheel, stands alone in regal magnificence, completely
mantled with ivy, all except the window. This window,
from which it takes its name, was made, the story tells us,
in imitation of the wheel upon which the martyr was
crushed to death. Below, the monks' consultation-depart¬
ment and the prison are remaining entire. Sir Walter
66
SCOTLAND.
lies in a niche within the chapel, surrounded by trees of
evergreen. Not far off is a yew-tree, of deep, dark
foliage, said to be seven hundred years old.
Jïlclrose —Between Dryhurgh and Abhotsford
stand the lofty and elegant ruins of Melrose Abbey,
another specimen of architecture of great beauty, immor¬
talized by Scott. One of its towers remains, from which
we had a fine view of the country. The sculptured columns
which support its arches, are most curiously designed with
figures of men bending beneath their burdens. It is as¬
tonishing to see what massive materials were brought to
bend to feudal power in those rude ages for such noble
structures, so skillfully ornamented with delicate carvings.
Outside this building, exposed to the storms of centuries,
are seen most curious designs, illustrating the peculiari¬
ties of the Roman faith. The figures of the Virgin
Mary and some of the apostles are still seen, so high that
the mob, in the days of Knox, the Reformer, could not
reach them.
Ctoo îSminent ÏSibtntS.—The first Sabbath we spent
in Edinburgh we had an opportunity of hearing two of
the most celebrated divines of the Free Church of Scot¬
land,—Drs. Candlish and Guthrie. The first, a man of
nervous temperament, preached with great earnestness
and apparent effect, though his gesticulation was not
good : among other ungraceful gestures, he shrugged his
shoulders, and threw back his hair as if it constantly
annoyed him.
Dr. Guthrie is vastly his superior, and one of the finest
pulpit-orators of the day. In person, he is tall and
DR. ÜUTHRIE.
67
commanding ; in elocution, clear and distinct ; his language
is chaste and eloquent ; his gesticulation, dignified and
appropriate ; his thought, pure, elevated, and full of thn
energy of divine truth and the unction of the Holy
Spirit. He seems to possess the happy faculty of con¬
densation ; and some like his style better than that of Dr.
Chalmers. He is so popular that we found it difficult to
get a seat in his church : every aisle was full, and every
place for a person to stand occupied. He preached from
Revelation: "Blessed are the dead which die in the
Lord,"—a subject well calculated to call forth his ora¬
torical powers, of which we had a full display. His
description of the victory of the Cross, and the martyr's
faith, was sublime and grand. People in Edinburgh
appear devout and religious, and the Sabbath is more
sacredly kept than in London. We were much pleased
with the society, customs, and manners of the people,
there is so much simplicity and candor in their general
character.
Corahs of üHarígtS.—We walked around Grey Friars'
Church, among the tombs of the martyrs, and entered
that venerable building, associated with the piety and
zeal of the devout Scotch Covenanters, awed by that
power which imparts to immortal spirits a faith which
overcomes the world and rises superior to its pleasures
and sufferings.
©lasgoh).—We left Edinburgh for this great city,
with which it forms a striking contrast in every respect.
It is entirely engaged in commercial interests, with a
larger population than Edinburgh and double the amount
68
SCOTLAND.
of trade. In appearance it resembles Liverpool or London.
Its streets are lined with massive houses and splendid
shops displaying elegant goods and wares of all descrip¬
tions, and are thronged with people rushing to and fro in
thousands.
etc ÖlritiC âociciB-—happened to reach this place
at the first grand national gathering of the Glasgow Celtic
Society, which was held in the College Park. All the
dukes and noblemen of the country were there, with their
clans, dressed in the costumes of the days of old. The
Duke of Athol led fifty choice men of his clan, arrayed
in the same costume, with bonnet, kilt, hose, and plaid
fastened by a brooch to the shoulders, and falling in
graceful folds. Each clan was distinguished by some
particular color or form of the plaid, hut each picturesque
and beautiful. The whole group was a perfect assemblage
of the graceful and elegant in costume, suited to the
characters and customs of the Highlanders in the days
of Bruce and Wallace.
They were as noble a race of men as ever met to¬
gether,—fine, symmetrical forms, complexions glowing
with health and animation, entering with spirit into their
games, and performing them with such ease and grace
that they seemed to float upon the air.
A large platform was laid in the middle of the Park,
around which a ring was formed to keep the spectators
from crowding too close upon them. On one side a
staging was raised for the lords and ladies, and thirty or
forty thousand people were gathered around to see the
feats and hear the pipers. The pibroch, the sword-
LOCH LOMOND.
69
dance, reel-playing, marches, strathspeys, leaping, and
foot-racing, were all in Highland style. They were to
have prizes for excelling. The papers announced pre¬
miums for the best poems.
(Gïranlirur anîl ^obrrtg.—But in all our travels we have
never seen, at a public exhibition, such wretchedness and
squalid poverty contrasted with such a display of ele¬
gance and grace. It seemed as though all the dens and
hiding-places of this great city had poured forth their
swarms. Those who were too poor to buy a ticket to
enter inside the walls, were determined to see the show
without ; and they lined the pathway all around the walls
of the Park, and on both sides of the entrance-gate, and
down the streets, by thousands, to see the great folks as
they passed, and to follow the pipers. Old and young,
men, women, and children, without shoes or hats, gar¬
ments tattered and torn, dirty, miserable, half-starved,
beggarly-looking beings as ever met the eye, were there
seen. One poor woman was trodden under foot, whom
the Duke of Athol rescued from death, greatly to his
praise, as he was leading his band of pipers through the
streets followed by the crowd.
^f)e îtafecS.—From Glasgow we sailed up the river
Clyde for some miles, and took the cars for Loch Lomond.
The American eye, accustomed to the lofty summits of
the White Mountains, or the grandeur of the Western
country,—its magnificent lakes and its bold and rocky
clifis,—is not struck at once with the sublimity of the
mountains surrounding this lake. Ben-Lomond'a majestic
head was wreathed in clouds as we passed under its lofty
70
SCOTI,A\D.
brow, for a misty, rainy atmosphere hung over us all the
morning ; but, as we returned and the day brightened, it
increased in dignity and grandeur. The names of Rob
Roy, Bruce, and other heroes impart a charm to the
scenery, and throw a spell of fascination around the
whole lake, which attract thousands every summer. No
boat goes or returns without its numbers.
A camp was fixed near the lake for the purpose of
witnessing a boat-race. Marked attention was paid to
the Queen of the Netherlands and the Duchess of Hamil¬
ton, who were there,—the boats taking a circuit round to
gratify them with the view. The rowers were dressed in
white, showing each movement of celerity and grace over
the placid waters. Rob Roy's cave was pointed out to
us, so concealed by rocks that no one would suspect its
existence. The beautiful wooded islands which rise like
gems of the ocean, give variety to the scenery. There
are some residences of considerable beauty in quiet nooks
of the lake.
On our return we were favored with the company of
the Queen of the Netherlands, the Duchess of Hamilton,
and their attendants, who had been on a trip up the Ben-
Lomond since they attended the Celtic games at Glas¬
gow- They appeared like very sensible ladies, without
any parade of manner, who enjoyed life, judging from
their merry laugh and joyous spirits. They were dressed
in perfect simplicity of style, without any display what¬
ever.
CHAPTER V.
IRELAND.
ÍSítaní'S (üauselöag.—In the evening -we took a boat
at Greenock for Belfast, Ireland, to visit the Giant's
Causeway, forty miles distant. The country through
which we traveled, was in itself lovely, but its moral
aspect was most miserable. Their hovels were the poorest
substitutes for houses of any we had yet seen.
The Giant's Causeway and all the surrounding scenery
surpassed our expectations. As we were rowed along in
a boat beneath its towering cliffs, they resembled in out¬
line an ancient temple in magnificent ruins. Lofty pali¬
sades surround its courts, the sublime solitude of whose
hallowed recesses is broken only by the music of the winds,
waves, and storms. The Causeway is wonderful indeed !—
so very unlike the productions of nature in either its gigan¬
tic or more delicate form. To see such a fitting of stones
in a pavement—every joint met with such exactness—is
astonishing. Some parts are sunk deep in the sand, so
as to show the shape of columns as they are joined to¬
gether. Above the pavement is a row of columns, called
the " Organ,"—quite applicable. A single rock at the
entrance of the cave, called the "Nurse and her Child,"
bears some resemblance to a colossal statue. Farther off
is the "Giant's Crown," on a ledge of projecting rocks;
71
Y2
IRELAND.
and farther still, a colossal profile, cut in a limestone
rock, whose base is washed by the sea. This is called
the "Giant's Head,"—a perfect outline of the human
face. We sailed into a cave whose arch looked as if it
might have been hewn out for temple-worship. Our
guide fired off a pistol, which had a startling efiect.
There is a mystery in these solitudes which eternity alone
can reveal.
îBubltTt.—We left Belfast for Dublin, where we stopped
but a short time. Its parks and public places are wanting
in the finish and cultivation of those of the English, and
look as if their proprietors lived elsewhere. The botanical
garden is fine and well kept, containing some rare plants,
which we never saw before. The streets of Dublin are
wide and beautiful, and all within its walls looks rich and
flourishing. We visited a poplin-manufactory which the
queen patronizés, and were shown the most splendid
goods of that kind made in the kingdom. We saw the
princess-royal's wedding dresses of green and gold, white
and silver, made at this place.
St. Patrick's Church was an object of peculiar interest
to us from its great antiquity,—said to have been built in
the fourth century. Its design presents much architectural
beauty, like many other buildings of the early ages. A
Avell was shown us with salutary waters for the healing
of diseases. In this church Dean Swift officiated, and
there we saw the tablet to his memory, with his marble
bust above it, expressive of his peculiar character. Not
far from it Avas the tomb of the amiable and lovely Stella,
Avhose name is associated with his, Avho lived a worshiper
LORD ROSSE'S telescope.
73
of his genius, and died a martjr to her devoted affection,
—which was poorly requited in her life, though remem¬
bered in death by this singular manifestation of his
eccentricity. There is also a tablet in one corner of the
chapel to the memory of one of his servants. The figure
of the great Irish orator, P. Curran, is here also, with
a more expressive eye than is often seen in marble.
His whole face beams with the fire of that eloquence
which once animated his soul. There were several others
also of deep interest. The organ is said to have been
taken in the Spanish Armada, and presented by Lord
Oxford to Dean Swift.
ILotb lilOSSe'S Ctlescopt.—We left Dublin to go into
the country to see the celebrated telescope constructed
by Lord Rosse. We rode twenty-six miles on an Irish
jaunty, a peculiar conveyance for travelers,—a frame
with two wheels and seats upon both sides, suspended
like a pair of saddle-bags upon a horse. They are
low and very pleasant, giving one a fine opportunity
to see the country. One horse carries four passengers
besides the driver, who sits up in the middle on a box in
which he carries the mail. There are larger ones with
two horses, which carry ten or twelve persons. These
jaunties are used in all the cities of Ireland.
The roads are so fine that we were driven rapidly along
without much trouble. In our drive we passed through
some miserable-looking villages, where the laboring classes
seem to be in the most abject condition possible. One
place numbered over a hundred houses closely connected
together, chiefiy made of stone, with thatched roofs so old
74
IRELAND.
that vegetation had taken root and covered them. No
relief of shade-tree or garden enlivened the prospect ; every
dwelling seemed comfortless and dreary. The laborers
were chiefly in the field, and the houses were closed ; but
those which were open presented poverty and wretched¬
ness in their worst colors. To see such a beautiful
country blighted with such a population is painful indeed.
Every cabin on the roadside had the same cheerless ap¬
pearance, the same mark of poverty. The village called
Birr, built upon Lord Rosse's lands, appeared more pros¬
perous than most of the interior towns.
We walked through the beautiful park belonging to this
lord. It is highly cultivated, and adorned with the most
luxuriant trees which we have seen on the island. Ever¬
greens of most exquisite beauty, artificial lakes, and every
thing around the grounds were arranged with artistic
taste, like those of England. Upon a lawn before his
palace, stands the tower containing that magnificent in¬
strument which scans the heavens and brings infinite
worlds before the telescopic vision. We were kindly per¬
mitted to examine it ; and, although the noble lord was
not at home, his astronomer invited us to come at night,
and look at the heavenly bodies, if the evening was clear.
Though it was cloudy, an interval appeared to favor us,
and we went ; but, alas ! as we stood upon the obser¬
vatory, with the ponderous instrument pointing to a
brilliant nebula in Lyra, a cloud passed over it and ob¬
scured the whole. He kindly fitted a small telescope,—
for he had two of less dimensions,—but all in vain ; it
grew darker and darker. We waited until twelve o'clock,
KILLARNEY.
75
but, no change occurring, we were obliged to yield to the
clouds and winds. He showed us the discoveries of Hör¬
schel, written with his own hand, and his diagrams of the
nebulae as seen by him, which this instrument, with its
superior magnifying powers, distinctly resolves into visible
stars and clusters. It was with deep regret we had to
relinquish the object which brought us here ; but there
was no alternative.
ItillarnCB.—We returned to the railroad-station, and
took our way to Killarney to see its mountains and lakes.
We passed by immense piles of peat,—the Irish substi¬
tute for wood and coal. It is imbedded in the earth,
we were told, to the depth of thirty feet. It is cut up in
shapes like brick, and piled up in stacks to dry; and
when dried it makes a delightful fire. It appears to be
a rich provision of nature in a country where there is so
little wood. Vegetables will grow upon its surface, and
it is used as compost to enrich the sterile soil. There is
a factory near Dublin where oil is extracted from it, of
which candles are made.
We spent two days at Killarney, and were much pleased
with its scenery. We sailed over its lakes, visiting the
islands which repose so beautifully in its placid waters,
and O'Donohue's Pulpit which the waters had formed in
the rock, and other remarkable places connected with the
legends of his presiding genius.
Ross Island has the ruins of a castle of the same
name, rising in grandeur upon projecting cliffs, which
still resist the hand of time and stand impervious to
wind and storm. Its sides are perfectly covered with
7
76
IRELAND.
ivy mantled up to the very top of its castellated roof.
The site was very lovely. A window in one of its
turrets was shown us as the place where O'Donohue leaped
out upon a white horse and was seen no more. The
owner of this island has improved it as pleasure-grounds.
Its M-alks and trees were refreshing among the little green
hills kept shorn like velvet. In one nook, ornamented
with shrubbery and flowers, and surrounded by the weep¬
ing ash and weeping elm whose branches sweep the
ground, a forest cottage formed an agreeable contrast with
the ruins. It was new and built with great taste. The
roof was thatched, yet with all the appearance of art in
its wild, romantic beauty. There are other islands be¬
longing to the nobility ; one of which contains the ruins
of a monastery.
ißuckroöS iEfibep.—Muckross Abbey, near the lake,
is a very interesting ruin. A beautiful avenue shaded
with lindens, leads through a closely-shaven lawn, to this
ancient ivy-clad ruin. Even the tombs are so covered
with its foliage that the stones cannot be seen. The ivy
tree and the vine are distinct. The tree has a glossy
leaf like the orange, and its body creeps up the wall, and
fastens upon it, throwing its boughs of thick, massive
foliage over its sides, forming most beautiful garlands of
leaves. This abbey with its cloistered rooms, chapel,
courts, turrets, and walls, presents a beautiful and lively
picture of past ages. Though it is preserved by its owner
with care, strangers are free to visit it whenever they
please. The antique monuments are covered with ivy so
thickly woven that their shape only can he seen.
MUCKROSS ABBEY.
77
In our sail over the lake we had a bugleman who
played when near the mountains, that the visitors might
hear the echo. The sound was repeated over the moun¬
tains for the space of three secohds. The scenery around
these lakes surpasses that of Loch Lomond in many
respects. The rocks which form their banks are beauti¬
fully carved into pillars and arches by the action of the
water, affording great variety, and forming beautiful and
grotesque borders along the shore.
Ireland would be a paradise were it not for oppres¬
sion ; but the poor seem to have no object of ambition, so
heavily are they taxed. Their situation appears hopeless.
The great emigration has advanced the price of labor in
some degree, but it is still low enough. Our bugle-player,
a sensible, intelligent man, said the taxes of his father's
farm were so great, that, although they kept six cows,
they could not afford to eat butter; and as for meat, that
was only allowed once in a week. To have meat every
day, he said, "0, that was too good!" He said, as
soon as his little brothers and sisters—eight in number—
could help his father to live, he was going to America,—
the Utopia of the Irish.
l\OUtt fot jFrancc.—We left Killarney for France,
through Dublin, Wales, and London. On our passage
across the Irish Channel we had the company of the dis¬
tinguished Lord M , Chief-Justice of Ireland, with his
family of five lovely daughters. He was a noble speci¬
men of Irish character, affable and accessible in manners,
whose presence inspired confidence and trust.
We landed at Holyhead, and passed through Conway,
78
IRELAND,
the ruins of whose ancient castle are the most extensive
of any in England. The whole town is built within its
walls. We passed through the celebrated tubular iron
bridge, eight hundred feet in length. Over the arches at
both sides of its entrance are two colossal lions, as
guardians, emblematic of English power and suneriority.
CHAPTER VI.
FRANCE.
ISouiogne to —Passing through London and
crossing the Straits of Dover, we landed at Boulogne and
took the cars for Paris. The little towns through which
we passed,were ancient in appearance, of small houses
with red tiled roofs clustered together, and large churches
towering above them. The country along the coast
looked very unproductive; but the peasants, men and
women, were busy at work gathering their crops. They
were neatly clad, and presented a more respectable ap¬
pearance than the same class in either England, Scotland,
or Ireland. The trees planted for shade or use, were
chiefly Lombardy poplars. We saw large nurseries full
of young scions for transplanting. They appear to be
congenial to the soil.
he îLoubre.—We arrived at Paris in the even¬
ing and took lodgings at the Louvre, in the heart of the
city. Its richly-furnished rooms, frescoed walls, gilded
cornicës, costly draperies, and all else, were in a style of
magnificence and an elegance of taste and harmony of
effect which the French know so well how to produce.
We afterward took lodgings in a more retired part of the
city, near the "Arc de Triomphe" and the "Champs
Elysdes.
7« 79
80
FRANCE,
We walked to the Triumphal Arch and sat down under
its shadow to read the inscriptions engraven upon its walls
to perpetuate the memory of great men and great con¬
quests, and thought how vain are all earth's victories which
wreath with laurels the mightiest conqueror's brow, com¬
pared to the victory of the Christian with a crown im¬
mortal.
âabiistî).—What a city is Paris ! For beauty
and splendor unsurpassed, and for the desecration of the
Sabbath equally so. The Champs Élysées is a perfect
panorama of amusement. It was almost impossible to
wend our way along through the roll of carriages and
the immense crowds "gathering there for enjoyment. In
the evening, the whole avenue was lined with stalls for
refreshment, and brilliant with the light of lamps and
joyous faces.
The public gardens were illuminated with pyramids of
stars and lights of various colors. Opera-music and
dancing close the Sabbath entertainment.
Í3apal ÍSbíñces.—The splendor of the churches
surpasses description. The Madelaine is Grecian in style,
in imitation of the Parthenon at Athens. It was first
designed for a temple of glory, and resembles at a dis¬
tance Girard College, in Philadelphia. Having no spires,
it is less imposing than the other churches; yet its archi¬
tecture is more perfect. It is surrounded with beautiful
Corinthian columns, and its sides are adorned with statues
of saints. Its bronze doors, thirty-three feet high and
sixteen broad, are elaborately wrought with Scripture
illustrations. No wood was allowed in the structure of
NOTRE DAME.
81
this building. It is lighted from the dome. The chapels
are adorned with the most costly marble altar-pieces,
with exquisitely beautiful paintings, and statues of patron
saints. On the ceiling over the magnificent high altar,
are scriptural and historical illustrations in fresco ; and
upon its walls, are a variety of scenes personal of Made-
laine and scriptural life. But, although the church is
gorgeously decorated, these decorations are so chaste,
elegant, and well-chosen, that they do not appear profuse.
The music in this church, although almost too powerful,
is said to be the best in Paris.
iâotrc 2Datnc.—The two towers of this august temple
are two hundred and eighty feet high. The grandeur and
beauty of the interior with its columns and lofty arches,
is somewhat diminished by the painted stripes upon its
fluted columns, giving them, notwithstanding its gilded
cornices and capitals, a sort of calico appearance. The
ceiling, too, is painted a dingy blue and studded with not
very brilliant gilt stars. The high altar is very rich, its
beautiful canopy being adorned with bas-reliefs of Scrip¬
ture history. The four rose windows, thirty-six feet in
diameter, are adorned with Bible scenes in stained glass.
The choir, the chapels, and the ecclesiastic stalls are of
elaborate workmanship, and full of artistic designs of
great beauty.
S't, ffîcrutaine is more highly ornamented and more
brilliant in coloring, than Notre Dame ; but, with all its
splendor of gold and finely-colored marble, gloomy and
tragic associations in all their horrors steal over the soul ;
for it was this church that first sounded the death-knell
82
FRANCE.
for the Massacre of St. Bartholomew,—responded to by
the beautiful Church of St. Roch.
St. Hoci).—The exterior of this church is compara¬
tively plain, but within, it is most elegant. It is of the
Doric order, uniting with massiveness and strength, the
light, graceful, and airy. All of its eighteen chapels
have most beautiful altar-pieces. In the chapel at the
end, called "Calvary," is a figure of the Saviour upon
the Cross, with the two Marys sitting at its foot weeping.
At a little distance, a ledge of rocks represents the se-
pulcher to which a group of figures are about to convey
his body. Being so placed as to meet the eye at a
distance, on entering the nave of the church, it produces
a fine effect.
ffiijapelle îHxplaioire.—This beautiful little chapel of
tragic memories, stands as a beacon-light, throwing its
rays back over the dark and troubled sea of the Past,
where thrones have been shaken, kingdoms convulsed, and
crowns trampled upon ! It is impossible to enter within
its walls without feelings of the deepest and and most in¬
tense interest. Beneath it were buried Louis XVI. and
Marie Antoinette when first brought from the guillotine.
The chapel is a fitting monument to perpetuate their
memories. It is a circular building with a white dome,
situated in an open square, surrounded by the dark shade
of the cypress.
Within, it is elegantly and chastely ornamented. The
groups of statuary are of the most touching character.
In one transept, upon a monument, the king is represented
kneeling in devout prayer, with an angel standing behind
ST. DENIS.
83
him pointing to heaven. On a marble slab below, is writ¬
ten his last will. In the opposite transept, the queen
stands in all the agonies of grief, folded in the arms of
her devoted sister Elizabeth, in the affecting tenderness
of the last embrace. On the tablet below, her own senti¬
ments are inscribed in the most pathetic language of
heart-felt anguish. The bodies were afterward removed
to the Abbey of St. Denis, and interred with royal
honors. Mass is performed in this chapel every Sabbath
morning, which keeps fresh the memory of the Reign of
Terror.
(ïîf)urci) anh ühhtg of St. ©tnis.—This venerated
building with its massive walls, towers, and turrets, had
its foundation with the establishment of Christianity in
France. "Pepin le Bref was consecrated within its walls
in A.D. 754." It has suffered in all the revolutions, and
in the Reign of Terror, was not only robbed of its orna¬
ments, but entirely demolished. The crypt alone re¬
mained. But Bonaparte restored it again, with all the
tombs of the Bourbons, to their former splendor. He
had selected it for his own mausoleum and that of his
successors.
The monuments and specimens of art, are of the most
ingenious kind. The one designed for King Dagobert,
exhibits the singular style of art in the thirteenth century.
Its pinnacles support a richly ornamented canopy illus¬
trating the dream of a monk, who, in a vision, saw the
king carried off by a legion of devils,—significant of that
age of bigotry and superstition.
The monument of Catharine de Medicis, surrounded
84
FRANCE.
by twelve blue, and as many white marble columns, re¬
presents her lying in state in her queenly robes, which
are so exquisitely sculptured that the folds of the drapery
and its ornaments are distinctly visible, as are her deeds
of cruelty in history.
But one gem of art—the statue of the unfortunate
Queen Marie Antoinette—interests a stranger more than
all others. She is represented in her bridal robes, in all
the grace and innocence of her youthful beauty, kneeling
upon her tomb in the attitude of prayer. It is said
to be a correct likeness. The gorgeous ornaments of the
church above, are so eclipsed by the interesting scenes
among the monuments of the dead, that they could
scarcely call our attention. The vaulted arches are a
study of history, as well as of the fine arts.
France ! how beautiful, yet how fallen ! Paris sits as a
queen among the cities of the earth, crowned with a
diadem of beauty. Her form is of symmetry and grace ;
her language, like the breathings of a well-tuned instru¬
ment, is music to the ear. She is wreathed with flowers
of every hue, and the air is perfumed with their fragrance.
Her drapery flows with ease and elegance, presenting a
model of grace for the world. Yet she sits upon a moral
volcano, ever ready to burst forth and bury her in its
ruins.
It seems that a true love of the beautiful in nature and
art, opening so many resources of refined intellectual
pleasure, should so chasten the mind as to lead it to the
fountain whence springs every good, and cause the heart
to gush forth in streams of gratitude to the Divine Being,
SAINTE CHAPELLE.
85
and that in proportion to intellectual cultivation, clearer
conceptions of naoral beauty should beget sympathy for
the human race ; but in France it is not so. What tragic
scenes are associated with all its monuments of glory and
renown !
Satntt Ctttsptlle.—St. Chapelle is the most singular
specimen of Gothic architecture in Paris. It was built
in the thirteenth century, designed by that superstitious
monarch as the depository for the crown of thorns and
other relics purchased of the Emperor Baldwin at a great
price. Its gilded columns seem to shoot up to its arched
ceiling, as a tree throws aloft its branches in graceful
curves toward the arch of heaven, through whose inter¬
lacing boughs, the sky and a myriad of stars can be
seen.
The windows are composed of stained glass, each pane
exhibiting a scene from the Bible, or in the life and cru¬
sades of the king. The columns and windows comprise
the entire sides of the building. The high altar at the
end, is gorgeous in ornament and rich in historic asso¬
ciations. On the platform in front, is the bronze statue
of St. Bartholomew, with a knife in one hand, and in the
other, a head suspended by the hair.
Near this chapel, is the Palais de Justice, where the
unfortunate Marie Antoinette and the king were impri¬
soned. In the room which she occupied, a shrine of wor¬
ship has been erected ; and her cell has become a chapel
of devotion.
palace of îLuxemÎIOUrg.—This palace is to be admired
not only for its regal splendor, but as the Pharos of
8G
FRANCE.
French history. The vestibule is reached by a flight of
many marble steps, upon the pavement of which, stand
the noble statues of Julius Caesar, Cicero, Cincinnatus,
Pericles, Solon, and Aristides the Just. On opening the
door, what scenes burst upon the sight ! Paintings so
lifelike, so full of deep historic interest, that, amid the
splendor of mirrors, frescoes, and elaborate gildings, the
mind is lost in admiration and bewilderment. There
stand Cardinal Richelieu in his priestly robes, and Louis
XIV. amid groups of courtiers, touched by the pencil of
the artist into animated being.
Napoleon'Si Cfirone^líltiíim.—Turning to the left down
a long arched hall, a light still more brilliant bursts upon
the eye. It is none other than that of Napoleon's throne-
room. Its mirrors, its cornices, its arched ceilings, its
frescoes, its paintings, and its statues, are all befitting
the place. The throne itself is magnificent. The canopy
sustained by six gilded bronze figures, and hung with a
drapery of crimson velvet starred with gold, is surmounted
by the crown ; in the center is Napoleon's chair, with the
letter N. upon its back. It is reached by five circular
steps inlaid with gilt. The ground of it all, is crimson
velvet. There is beauty and simplicity in the design,
notwithstanding its richness. His character is seen in
all its surroundings.
The third room though smaller, is equally attractive.
On each side of its arched entrance, are mirrors fifteen
feet high, adding, by their reflection, length and splendor
to the room. Several paintings adorn its walls, among
which is the marriage of Napoleon III., with cardinals
MARIE DE MEDICIS.
87
in their Papal robes in the foreground. The floors are
richly inlaid with oak. The legislative hall is adorned
with costly columns of marble and statues of eminent
statesmen ; and the extensive picture-galleries are filled
with works of the great masters.
iïlaïit ÏJC iHebictjS.—The walls of the bedroom of
Marie de Medicis, are covered with paintings from the
pencil of Rubens, among which are several of her own
portraits ; and, although two hundred and fifty years have
passed over them, they are still fresh and beautiful.
What emotions fill the mind at the mention of her name !
The whole room is a volume illustrative of the Medici
family,—their vanity, love of display, as well as of the
fine arts.
In this magnificent palace the lovely Josephine and her
husband, Count Beauharnois, were imprisoned. And
although no portrait of her hangs upon its walls, she
dwells in the hearts of all who read her history. France
was unworthy of >such a queen, and therefore knows not
yet how to appreciate her. The gardens which surround
the palace, are exceedingly beautiful. Its walks are orna¬
mented with the statues of kings, queens, and princes,—
the most striking of which is that of Joan of Arc, which
unites masculine strength with feminine beauty. What an
expression of moral grandeur emanates from her counte¬
nance. The whole soul seems to flash from her eye, as if,
communing with her own thoughts, she was about to utter
from the slightly-parted lips, the kindling emotions which
come welling up from her heart ! In her right hand she
holds a spear ; in her left, her shield. Basely was she
8
88
FRANCE.
rewarded for her heroism and sacrifice. What are
these gorgeously attired queens or princesses beside that
animated, soul-breathing statue !
Statue Of iHars^al Neg.—From the gardens of Lux¬
embourg, we walked through the beautiful avenue of the
Observatory, to see the bronze statue of Marshal Ney,
erected upon the spot where, like a hero, he met his fate.
It stands upon a marble pedestal surrounded by an iron
railing. The form is majestic, and the countenance
beams with that intelligence, firmness, and intrepidity
which so strongly marked his character.
^antilton.—From these interesting scenes we went to
the Pantheon, now called St. Genevieve,—one of the
noblest buildings in Paris. Its lofty porch with its
fluted columns, and the magnificent dome, are the admi¬
ration of all who have a taste for the chaste and elegant
in architecture. The plan of the church is that of a
Greek cross. The frieze in front is ornamented with
allegorical figures of Genius and Science, and with statues
of the most distinguished persons in the scientific and
literary world,—Voltaire, Rousseau, Fénélon, Mirabeau,
and others. It has also its generals and heroes,—at the
head of whom is Bonaparte.
A beautiful statue of the patron saint is here also. It
is a model of female loveliness,—not that insipid, passive
tameness seen in so many of the saints and madonnas,
but a being of life, full of high thoughts and intellectual
beauty, who has conquered herself by the power of that
faith which overcomes the world. It appears faultless
both in design and execution.
THE PANTHEON.
89
This church has less of the ornamental than any we
have seen. The view of its triple dome, one above the
other, covered with allegorical figures in fresco, is like
that of looking up into the clouds, far away above the
earth. The paintings upon its walls, bear marks of the
conflict of June, 1848. Several holes were pierced
by balls ; and the rents still show in the canvas.
The chief ornaments are its gilded altars. St. Gene¬
vieve, in the south transept, the Virgin Mary, in the
north, and one to our Saviour, in front, are fine specimens
of art. That of St. Genevieve had the precedence, we
supposed, as more persons were seen bowing at her shrine.
The figures and chapels are all of gilt, as are all the orna¬
ments except the Virgin and child, which are crowned
with wreaths of white flowers.
ÜTfie öTrSPt.—In tlie crypt, are the tombs of Vol¬
taire, Rousseau, and other distinguished persons. That
of Rousseau is of fine marble, with a bronze hand upon
the closing door, holding an urn glowing with a lambent
flame. Voltaire's is of a similar shape, with a golden
harp at the top, and laurel wreaths at each side of the
door. A fine marble statue of himself, in a poetic atti¬
tude, clad in a Grecian costume, stands in a niche on one
side. His sarcastic expression, keen eye, and haughty
curl of the lip could not be mistaken. His portrait, with
a scroll of his works open before him, is seen upon a
tablet in the corner of the house where he died, in Quai
Voltaire. Happy had it been for France and the world,
could his influence have perished with him ; but his prin¬
ciples have entwined themselves in serpentine folds
90
FRANCE.
around the minds of the skeptical here as well as in other
places.
^Ottl hes ïnbalihPS.—This building, situated in the
heart of Paris, and surrounded by a park and gardens, is
exceedingly beautiful, and very appropriate for one of
the most interesting monuments of Paris. Beneath its
lofty dome, is the tomb of Napoleon. This building, in
design and finish, is a master-piece of genius, blending the
poetic with the religious in such perfect unity, that the
moment one enters the temple, every thought is obedient
to the power which here holds sway. Nothing had we
seen of monumental grandeur comparable to it. Directly
under the center of the dome, in a circular opening below,
surmounted at the top by a marble balustrade, is his
mausoleum. There, in silent grandeur, stands his empty
sarcophagus. It is composed of red Finland granite, of
exquisite workmanship, and stands upon a pedestal of
colored marble of unrivaled beauty. The pavement is
mosaic, in the form of a laurel crown with rays of light
diverging from its center,—his most celebrated conquests
being inscribed upon the border. A colonnade of the
purest white marble, and twelve colossal statues, stand
around facing the tomb. At the top are twelve lamps,
after the model of those found in Pompeii. The sar¬
cophagus was open ; for his remains are in a side chapel
where they were first deposited.
Ascending several steps with the crowd who were on a
pilgrimage to this shrine, through a grated window in the
door of the chapel, we saw his coffin with its splendid
draperies of velvet, his hat, sword, and other military
THE HIGH ALTAR—THE CHAPEL. 91
badges. Officers were standing upon the broad step
above, to prevent long delay, that others as anxious as we
were, might see the sepulcher of the greatest general of
modern history.
Ci)? Alitai:.—The high altar, composed of four
spiral columns of black marble twenty-two feet high, sup¬
ports a splendid canopy, beneath which is suspended a
gilded bronze figure of the Saviour upon the Cross. The
light beaming through a window of orange-colored glass,
gives it a subdued and almost heavenly radiance, upon
which the eye can rest in sweet repose. This altar is in
a recess approached by several steps, where the devotee
stops to kneel and "con her prayers" as she passes by.
All the sculptured figures are in harmony with the place.
Adjoining the room are the monuments of Napoleon's
two friends, Duroc and Bertrand,—chaste and beautiful,
like their friendship for him.
^t)e <Kf)apd.—The inner chapel where the invalids
worship, has a gallery literally wreathed with the banners
of triumph won by Bonaparte,—trophies in which France
still feels a pride, and which she hallows by her devotion
to his name.
"We went through all the departments of this edifice
appropriated to suffering humanity,—to the poor, dis¬
abled, homeless veteran of war. We saw many of
the inmates,—some sitting about the halls, and others
amusing themselves by working in the gardens. The
diuing-hall, dormitories, and kitchen were neat and Avell
arranged. Every thing was provided, in the best possible
manner, for their comfort.
8«-
92
FRANCE.
îEnglisi) (Cfjurrijest.—We have attended two places of
religious worship in our own language,—the English
Episcopalian and the Wesleyan Methodist. At the first,
we were edified by a plain gospel sermon ; at the latter,
greatly benefited by a most eloquent discourse by Rev.
Mr. G , from London, on experimental religion and
the necessity of the witness of the Spirit. Here we were
gladdened by meeting our friend Rev. Mr. Milburn from
America. The Methodist Chapel is very small, and the
Episcopalian Church but little larger ; but, though they
have here no
" Long-drawn aisle and fretted vault.
Where pealing anthems swell the note of praise,"
the spirit of the gospel was present to ascend the arch of
heaven and echo through its lofty dome.
Siarhtn hes plantes, with its conservatories, contains
every variety of vegetable growth, from the smallest flower
to the cedar of Lebanon ; as well as of animals from every
quarter of the globe. Those great naturalists. Count
Buffon and Baron Cuvier, had indeed contributed to its
valuable treasures, and improved the grounds by their
taste, but to Napoleon I., is chiefly due its present ex¬
cellence. He gave a fresh impetus to this interesting
field of investigation, and started it anew with that com¬
prehension so conspicuous in all his works. Here the
student may listen to lectures upon geology, botany,
zoology, and comparative anatomy, with all the means
of improvement suggested by the greatest naturalists of
the age.
THE WINE-MARKET.
93
In the center of the gardens, is a conical-shaped hill,
with winding stairs to its summit. A bronze saloon, which
has been built here as a resting-place, commands a fine
prospect of the most prominent objects of the city.
ÍTtje ?12EínTíi®lai"fecí.—Near to this garden, is the
great Wine-Market, covering an area of thirty-four thou¬
sand square yards, and having vaults to store two hundred
thousand more casks of wine. The grounds are laid out
in streets named after the places whence the wine is im¬
ported. In front are the oflSces of the conductors of the
business. With a light, we threaded our Avay through the
dark, intricate windings of this subterranean labyrinth
of casks, piles upon piles, in countless numbers.
Behind this extensive market of wine, is another for
other kinds of liquors of more intoxicating qualities, of
which, we judge the French people happily make but little
use, as we saw not a drunkard in France.
©oheltn iMamifactorp.—The process of making these
tapestries is slow and tedious, but perfect in its results.
The carpets wrought here are the most expensive in the
world. We saw the operatives at their work, but were
not permitted to speak to them, nor are they allowed to
address, or even look at strangers.
The first rooms we entered, were filled with specimens
of historical and classical subjects, portraits, and imita¬
tions of artistic works. The carpets take from five to ten
years in making, and cost from one to sixty thousand
pounds. The largest ever made, measured thirteen
hundred feet, and consisted of sixty-two pieces.
It is said six hundred men are employed in this factory.
94
FRANCE,
earning each from sixty to a hundred pounds a year; and
that when they become old and unable to labor longer, the
company allows them a pension of thirty or forty pounds
a year. The delicacy of the shading is almost equal to
that of the pencil upon canvas ; and a portrait has the
same lifelike expression. Those of the present Emperor
and Empress were in the loom. The copies are placed
behind the weavers, and transferred with the greatest
accuracy by taking up each little thread separately. But,
notwithstanding all this elaborate and expensive work,
the colors pale with time, and the most splendid repre¬
sentations look dim and dingy after some years.
iïlontntotcncg.—The drive to this village, nine miles
from Paris, is one of peculiar interest. It is situated
upon a romantic hill ; and, as one reaches the summit,
vineyards, trees bending beneath the weight of mellowing
fruit, gardens with flowers, grassy lawns, woodlands,
villas, cottages, in endless variety, and Paris in the per¬
spective, meet the enchanted eye. But the Hermitage of
Jean Jacques Rousseau is the chief attraction. Here,
embowered in the shade of its romantic environs, he com-
posed his "Emile" and finished his "Héloise." We
walked through his classic grove, amidst gurgling foun¬
tains, moss-grown rocks, vine-clad arbors, and rustic seats,
where his muse caught the breath of inspiration and
poured forth the melody of song. The grassy lawns
and rural walks were adorned with statues of his poetic
taste.
His house was not distinguished for beauty, but clad
PERE LA CHAISE.
95
with creeping vines blooming with flowers, and surrounded
by trees of rich, dense foliage.
ijJcrr la (5i)aisr.—This celebrated cemetery is so
crowded with monuments, that its appearance is not as
picturesque as Mount Auburn, near Boston, or Green¬
wood, in the environs of New York. Their beauty
is lost in the multiplicity, though the tombs of distin¬
guished individuals are each a finished piece of art. Those
of Abelard and Héloise are in Gothic style, and very
elaborate. We were interested in looking upon those of
La Place, La Fontaine, Molière, and others of scientific
and poetic memory. Those of Baron Cuvier and his
family are peculiarly interesting,—not from their splen-
doi', but from the idea of the benefits conferred upon
the world by their influence ; and we looked upon the
simple monument of the Baron's daughter with hallowed
recollections of the intelligence and deep piety which
adorned her life. The cemetery was excessively deco¬
rated with wreaths of gold immortal, the manufacture of
which seems to be a trade, as shops for nearly a mile
were filled with them.
iHaltnatSOn.—We wished much to visit this celebrated
residence of the beautiful and lovely Josephine, which
she had herself adorned, but we were not permitted to
enter the grounds, only to look at them from the lodge,
which the keeper guarded with the utmost vigilance.
But we entered the church and saw the monument
erected to her memory. It is a beautiful canopy of white
marble, sustained by elegantly carved columns. Beneath,
is her statue of pure white marble, gracefully kneeling in
96
FRANCE.
prayer, and looking up to heaven, with clasped hands.
It is said to be a good likeness.
In an opposite transept is a monument yet unfinished,
erected to her daughter Hortense, the present Emperor's
mother, more elaborate than that of Josephine, yet of
graceful simplicity.
iHonumtnial OTiiapcl of the Duke of Orleans is
very beautiful. The scene of his death occasioned by a
fall from his horse, with an angel sustaining the expiring
prince, is sculptured in marble. The angel—designed by
the Queen of Belgium, though not for this position—is
well suited to the subject. A large painting, in a recess
above the altar, also represents the scene of his death
when first brought in, the whole family and other distin¬
guished personages being present. On the opposite side
of the court, is a room in which are two dumb clocks,—
one marking the hour when he fell, the other when he
died.
iißoitl he Öllung.—Not far from the Pantheon, is a
building richer to the antiquary than all the grandeur
of the modern palaces, or the gorgeous display of the
Bomish churches which adorn this splendid city. It is
called Hotel de Cluny, and is united with the "Palais
des Thermes," and is supposed to have been built by the
Emperor Julian, or Constantino Chlorus. In A.D. 365
it was occupied by Valentinian and Valens. Maximus
and several of the Caesars resided in it. It was after¬
ward pillaged by the Normans, and sold by Philip Augus¬
tus to his chamberlain. In 1625, it was bought by the
excellent "Abbess of Port-Royal," and kept in that most
PALAIS DES THERMES.
97
interesting sisterhood of truly pious memory, until the
Revolution, -when the sanguinary Marat held his private
meetings in its halls. It is filled with relics of the Middle
■^gGS,—household furniture of the most useful and elegant
kind, carefully preserved. There are cabinets of the
most delicately carved oak, ebony, and other kinds of
beautiful woods ; chairs six feet high covered with carved
figures and flowers; various ingenious devices in ivory;
large marble mantel-pieces ; huge fireplaces, such as
our pilgrim fathers used in the wilderness when wood
abounded ; mirrors, table-furniture of brass, pewter, and
earthen ; a lady's toilet complete, with a little harpsichord,
—an instrument then in use ; a bedroom, called the
"White Queen's Room," occupied once by the widow of
Louis XIL and sister of Henry VIII. White was then
the badge of mourning. Here James V. of Scotland
was married to a daughter of Francis I.
^alat0 hrs Every room is filled with singu¬
lar but most interesting relics of antiquity, associated
with the history, character, and customs of those early
times. The chapel is a fine model of Gothic architecture,
large and airy. It is hung with faded tapestry, but
has no other ornaments of any kind, save a little, plain,
unadorned altar-piece. From this chapel we descended
a flight of small stone steps leading into a ruin, where
nothing was to be seen but rough stone coffin-shaped
baths, and some scattered fragments of broken statues
and monuments.
Cfje (Follfge of Sorbonne, was founded by St. Louis,
and contains in its beautiful chapel the tomb of Cardinal
98
FRANCE.
Richelieu. Having been educated in this university, it
now claims the honor of his burial-place. His monu¬
ment, which is the chief object of attraction in the chapel,
is very beautiful. It represents the Cardinal surrounded
by emblematical figures. He is in a recumbent, dying
posture, supported by two genii, and Religion in the form
of a beautiful woman ; while another female figure, of
exquisite beauty, stands at his feet, bending gracefully
over him in mournful attitude to perscfnate Science weep¬
ing at the loss of her friend and patron,—one hand partly
concealing a face of angelic loveliness, but full of grief.
These two figures are said to be the portraits of the
Duchesses of Guyon and Fronsac, his nieces. The coun¬
tenance of the dying man is more expressive of sorrow
and anguish than of Christian triumph. The whole group
is of the most touching character.
—A second visit to this magnificent
palace, does not detract from the first impressions of its
beauty or magnitude. It is situated in the very heart of
Paris, and strangers have free access to its elegant
saloons of fine arts, and its museum of antiquities, without
any exactions. The Tuileries and Louvre form one great
building, and are interestingly connected with modern
history and the fine arts.
Standing upon the bank of the Seine, they have a com¬
manding prospect of its waters and the opposite shore
lined with palaces ; and, on another side, of the gardens of
the Tuileries, the Place de la Concorde, and Champs
Elysées.
The inclosures are arranged in flower-beds, and kept
THE LOUVRE.
99
in the most perfect order, every plant being cultivated
and trained to the perfection of its growth. A portion
of the flower-garden in front of the Tuileries, is separated
for a private promenade for the household of the palace.
In front of the palace, a grove of trees forms a small park.
A great variety of statuary scattered among the flowers
and around the fountains, adorns all the grounds, add¬
ing elegance to the picturesque beauty which every¬
where meets the ^ye. Among them may be seen the
classical forms of Laocoon, Diana, the Sicilian Knife-
Grin der, Venus sitting upon a tortoise, .¿Eneas rescuing
Anchises and leading Ascanius, the Death of Lucretia,
and Atlas changed into a rock.
The Tuileries was commenced in 1564, as a residence
of that notorious queen, Catharine de Medici. Louis
XIII. and Louis XIV. resided in it. It has been fitted
up in a style of royal magnificence for the present Empe¬
ror who now occupies it.
Houbrt, with all its attractive charms, has his¬
torical associations of a tragic character, which call up
reminiscences of the past suflScient to chill the feelings
of the stoutest heart.
The balcony of one of the windows is shown as the
place where Charles IX. stood to fire deliberately upon
his Huguenot subjects,—commencing that inhuman mas¬
sacre—St. Bartholomew's—which filled all Europe with
astonishment, and the Protestant world with horror and
dismay, and the recollection of which, even now, sends
through the heart a pang of anguish and sorrow.
The imposing grandeur of this edifice strikes every eye
G 9
100
FRANCE.
with admiration, while the beauty of its grounds adds to
its magnificence, in the delightful contrasts nature affords
controlled by the refinements of taste.
The Louvre is appropriated to works of genius. No
sovereign has resided here since the time of Louis
XV. Five galleries on the lower floor are filled with
specimens of ancient sculpture. Around the building, is
a series of galleries adorned with paintings by the first
masters ; the ceilings are ornamented with most beautiful
frescoes, historic and classic.
The room which contains the royal costume of the
kings and some souvenirs of their queens, is very interest¬
ing. We observed a casket formerly belonging to Marie
de Medici, composed of precious gems, very curiously
wrought, and worth several thousand pounds ; a piece of
furniture, formerly the property of Marie Antoinette,
made of fine colored wood inlaid with pearls and jewels;
a casket, ingeniously ornamented, given by Cardinal
Richelieu to Catharine de Medici ; the swords and scepters
of various monarchs ; the crown of Charlemagne, and the
armor of other kings.
But Napoleon's room containing his coronation-robes,
the trophies of his military greatness, his simple military
costume, and camp-bedstead, interested us most. The
taste displayed in his royal robes, is more chaste and
refined than that exhibited by the kings'. His were
of crimson velvet, with a deep border of gold, the front
laid over with a lapel of white satin embroidered with
gold, with a plain ground to give relief to the exqui¬
site design and workmanship ; while those of the kings'
VERSAILLES.
101
■were covered with gold flowers. All Bonaparte's rich
dresses were of the same character. There hangs the
wardrobe of his little son, by the side of his infantile
bust ; and there stands the splendid cradle in which he
enjoyed the slumbers of innocence, with no thought, to
disturb his repose, of the dark cloud rising to burst upon
the head of his father and blight his prospects forever.
Strange thoughts of life's drama passed through our
minds in that room, recalling events of deep and thrilling
interest in which the world at large was involved, throw¬
ing a dark vail over the dazzling splendor—a drapery of
woe upon human greatness and royal diadems.
The Louvre is rich in the productions of Raphael,
Titian, Guido, Leonardo da Vinci, Correggio, Murillo, and
others, forming a study of the finest artists of the world.
The marine department, in the upper story, is a little
world in itself, full of interest.
UersatUcS.—To speak of this palace and do it justice,
would require artistic skill and powers of analyzation
possessed by few,—so vast is the plan, so complicated
the design. Never was a motto more perfectly applicable
than the one written upon one of the wings:—"J. toutes
les gloires de la France;" for in it they appear to be con¬
centrated and displayed.
Upon the ground floor of this palace, in the south wing,
are twelve rooms, adorned with paintings illustrating the
political and military career of Napoleon, and containing
busts of the Emperor and his family.
The "Hall of Marengo" is illustrative of French his¬
tory from 1789 to 1814, which is here so spread upon
102
FRANCE.
the walls, that the mind requires to be well stored
with historic knowledge to receive benefit, or to become
interested in the representations. There are five rooms
adorned with views of battles fought by the Crusaders. It
is unnecessary to particularize the rooms, independent of
their treasures of art : to walk through them is to read of
revolutions and their character. Here is the scene which
transpired in the court of Louis XIV., when the beautiful
La Vallière adorned those halls with her unrivaled charms,
elegance, and grace,—whose sad history is told by years
of penitence and grief, secluded in a convent, while the
capricious monarch reveled, without remorse, with her
substitute, Madame Montespan.
The large chapel, eighty-six feet high, is embellished
with paintings and paved with marble elegantly wrought
in mosaic. There are seven chapels attached to this
edifice.
The railing which surrounds the court in front, is
adorned on all its sides with statues of eminent statesmen.
The halls of the palace are immense ; and their number
so great that they appear like a labyrinth of inextricable
mazes, where one might be lost, wandering amidst the
wonders which surround.
The "Great Gallery," which is two hundred and forty-
two feet long, thirty-five feet broad, and forty-three feet
high, in the time of Louis XIV. was daily crowded with
courtiers. Here the capricious monarch, enthroned in a
world of his own glory, created his ideal wants, and
brought them out with an ingenuity as astonishing as
beautiful.
VERSAILLES.
103
"In one room are the king's cabinet, his council-chair
and table, and a curious clock that plays a chime each
hour,—sentinels advance, a cock flaps his wings, Louis
XIV. comes forward, and Victory descending from the
sky, crowns him with a golden chaplet." How illustrative
of this monarch's self-esteem and vanity !
The memory of the unfortunate Queen, Marie An¬
toinette, lingers around these walls. We were shown the
apartments from which she made her escape when the
people burst into her room to seize her person. In the
Chapel of the Virgin,she was married to Louis XVI.
The theater is most elaborately wrought with rich gild¬
ings and ornamental work. In the sculpture-galleries is
a statue of Joan of Arc, designed by the daughter of Louis
Philippe,—much admired for its faithful expression and
beautiful form.
Among the portraits of literary characters, that of
Madame de Sévigné,—whose letters, full of wit and satire,
still retain, for purity of style and eloquence of language,
their position as models of epistolary writing,—did not
strike us as that of an intellectual woman of high order ;
nor the bust of Socrates, as that of a moral philosopher.
This magnificent chateau is almost inexhaustible in its
treasures of art.
The vast terrace in front is adorned with statues of
Antinous, Silenus, Bacchus, and Apollo. The gardens
are ornamented with beautiful fountains jetting from
groups of statuary, in all the variety of gods and god¬
desses belonging to Neptune.
Among them is an artificial waterfall issuing from
9»
104
FRANCE.
a deep cavern, at whose entrance are groups of nymphs.
But the most beautiful of all, is the Basin of Neptune,—
around the margin of which, stand twenty-two vases,
besides groups of statuary representing Neptune, Amphi-
trite, Proteus, Oceanus, and two colossal statues reposing
upon pedestals bearing Cupids. From these groups, a
flood of water pours forth, increased by jets in diflerent
parts of the basin.
The grounds and gardens of Versailles, its fountains
and statuary, must have exhausted the fertile genius of
the most distinguished artists of those times, and taxed
their ingenuity and skill to the utmost to fill out a picture
where fancy and imagination are displayed in forms of
such exquisite beauty and taste. To satisfy this volup¬
tuous monarch, forty millions sterling were spent in laying
out these grounds and beautifying the palace.
ffîranb Crtanon.—From the Avenue Apollo, a
road leads to the Grand Trianon built by Louis XIV.
for Madame de Maintenon, whom, from the humble posi¬
tion of teacher of his illegitimate children, he elevated to
become partner of his throne and partial ruler of his
court and kingdom. Over his mind she held undisputed
sway; for, after exhausting all the resources of external
pleasures, this proud monarch in his declining years, was
thrown helplessly upon the talents of this intellectual
woman, and, in a measure, depended upon her for his
happiness, being capable of appreciating in her, the
mental capacity and resources he did not himself possess.
This is a fairy palace, situated in the center of a green
wood,—one of those beautiful creations of fancy that this
THE PETIT TRIANON.
105
voluptuous monarch knew so well how to form. It is one
story high and near four hundred feet long, and is sur¬
rounded by a colonnade of most exquisite marble : eight
of the Ionic columns are green, the others of variegated
Languedoc marble. The grounds are laid out in a style
of regal magnificence, adorned with gardens, statues,
fountains, arbors, and bowers of evergreen, while the
groves which surround it, form a still and lovely re¬
treat, with shady walks of rural beauty and sweet
repose.
The palace is divided into two parts by a pavilion.
The rooms are finished and furnished in a style of royal
splendor. They are chaste and elegant, and adorned with
the portraits of Madame de Maintenon, Marie Lazinski,
wife of Louis XV., Maria Theresa, Marie Antoinette,
Louis XV., and others of like distinction.
This charming residence has been successively occupied
by Louis XIV., Louis XV., the Emperor Napoleon, and
the lovely Josephine,— a place of retirement well suited
to him who could grasp kingdoms, found empires, erown
the brows of his friends and relatives with kingly
diadems, and place in their hands the scepter of power.
In the reign of Louis XIV., this building seemed to be
an appendage to the magnificent domain of Versailles.
3ri)e Crianon.—J^ot far from this, is a square
pavilion of two stories, elegantly furnished and adorned
with paintings. It Avas once the residence of the Duchess
of Orleans. The gardens are laid out in English style,
and are very beautiful. We think the English excel the
French in blending nature with art in its more picturesque
106
FRANCE.
forms ; and, in landscape-gardening, they surpass all
others, as much as the French do in style and costume.
But in these abodes of imperial splendor, what recol¬
lections are awakened ! What scenes pass before the
mind, divesting royalty of all its charms, and giving a
somber cast to all its dazzling glory which, like the
Dead Sea fruit,
" Tempts the eye,
But turns to ashes on the lips."
.áFontaínfftltau is another kingly palace of vast extent,
covering twenty-three acres of ground, without including
the gardens and parks. It calls up the past, from the
reign of Louis VII. to the days of Napoleon I., with its
many events, sometimes gay and joyous, hut, alas ! too
often tragic and sorrowful.
In 1602, Marshal Biron was arrested here and sent to
the Bastile to be executed. In 1657, Christine, Queen
of Sweden, had the Marquis of Monaldeschi assassinated
in one of its apartments. Here Louis XIV. signed the
revocation of the Edict of Nantes ; in the following
year the great Condé died ; and, eighty years afterward,
the son of Louis XV. also,—supposed to have been poi¬
soned. In 1808, Charles IV. of Spain, who had been
kidnapped by Napoleon, was confined here twenty-four
days. In 1812, Pope Pius VII. shared the same fate for
two years.
In 1809, the declaration of divorce was pronounced
between the Emperor and Josephine, which nearly de¬
prived her of life from intense agony of feeling, under
which she fainted, and was carried from his presence to
FONTAINEBLEAÜ.
107
be severed forever. From the effects of this blow she
never recovered : the tendrils of her affectionate heart,
thus torn asunder from the object of her devoted attach¬
ment, around which they were entwined with the threads
of her own existence, never were healed, but bled on, till,
ebbing out, she died of a broken heart.
In 1814, on the 6th of April, in the presence of a few
of his favorites of the Imperial Guard who remained.
Napoleon I. signed his abdication in the Court du Cheval
BlanCy which has since, in consequence of the event
which then took place, received the name of Cour des
Adieux. How closely was he followed by divine retribu¬
tion, in being compelled to resign the kingdom he ex¬
pected to perpetuate to his descendants by an open
violation of the divine law of the marriage covenant; and
in the same place, too, where the crime was perpetrated,
—a coincidence worthy of observation.
This famous Court du Cheval Blanc derives its name
from an equestrian statue in plaster,—a copy of the horse
of Marcus Aurelius at Rome, remarkable for its dimen¬
sions and beauty, brought here in 1650.
We passed through a suite of splendid rooms once occu¬
pied by the sister of Napoleon, and afterward by the
Duchess of Nemours.
There were seven rooms magnificently furnished and
highly decorated, that were appropriated to Anne of
Austria. Upon the ceiling were the gods of Olympus,
elaborately gilt. In this apartment Charles V. sl^pt
during his visit to Francis I.
The gallery of Francis I. is ornamented in a style of
108
FRANCE.
simple beauty, after his own peculiar taste. The ceilings
are of oak and walnut, elegantly sculptured, and adorned
with gilding ; the walls, with large frescoes and has-relief
of stucco.
In the apartments once occupied hy Napoleon, we saw
the table upon which he signed his abdication, and lying
upon it, a fac-simile of the document, which has been
carefully preserved. The bedroom with its splendid
drapery thrown in graceful folds over the bed of green
damask, the chairs, and all the furniture of the room, are
much as it was when he left this magnificent palace to
return to it no more.
But Napoleon the Great, whose mind towered above
them all, trod these stately halls with an eagle eye that
looked beyond them. With an intellect capable of found¬
ing empires and making kings bend beneath his sway,
outward show did not attract or move him further than
it was made tributary to the accomplishment of his own
vast schemes. And, perhaps, if he had not sacrificed the
wife of his bosom to his false ambition, he would not have
been confined to the rock of St. Helena, surrounded by
the walls of the mighty ocean, homeless and almost
friendless.
The Queen's Chamber is adorned with all the decora¬
tions and embellishments of art. Within its walls have
those royal personages resided, who have left a store of
the most deeply interesting reminiscences,—Marie de
Medici, whose character is almost a history by itself ;
Anne of Austria, Maria Theresa, Marie Antoinette of
unrivaled beauty ; Marie Louise who filled the place of
FONTAINEBLEAU.
109
Josephine; and the ex-Queen of the French,Marie Amelia.
The dark shade thrown over the pathway of these queens,
would more than counterbalance all the brightness of
imperial splendor ; so that their elevated positions are
rather places of commiseration than of envy.
The apartments of Madame de Maintenon are no less
distinguished than those of her predecessors. Her rooms
are magnificently provided ; her bedroom, superbly beau¬
tiful,—its draperies, of white satin embroidered with gold.
Every thing belonging to it is elegant and chaste, and
her toilet possessed of every appendage that taste could de¬
vise or a queen admire. But none of these things lessened
the bondage of a court life, or added to the happiness
of a soul oppressed by the slavery of its power. The
wreath which adorned her care-worn brow, was robbed of
its freshness, and looked sere and dead. The galling
yoke she was compelled to wear by the arbitrary laws of
etiquette, so strictly exacted by Louis XIV., made her life
miserable, wore upon her spirits, and perhaps drove her
from his presence in his last moments,—for she was there
to see him die, and, like a guardian angel, to point him
to the Lamb of God, which taketh away the sin of the
world.
One of the most splendid rooms in this chateau, is the
gallery of Francis I. It is one hundred and twenty feet
long, thirty feet in width, and as many feet high. Its
frescoed walls, sculptured chimney-piece, and other luxu¬
riant ornaments, give it a pre-eminence over all the rest,
as the most magnificent hall of the palace. But there
are so many, and so richly adorned, that it is difficult to
110
FRANCE.
keep the distinctions in the mind, unless associated with
some historic event.
One place, called Chapelle de St. Saturnin, is of peculiar
interest, as having been consecrated by Thomas à Becket,
during his temporary exile in France, in 1169.
The subjects of the stained window-glass were sug¬
gested by the artistic taste of Princess Marie, daughter
of Louis Philippe.
In one of the twelve rooms, called the petit apartments,
is a painting representing the murder of Monaldeschi,
with an inscription, under the window, near the spot
where the deed was perpetrated.
©tOUnhö.—The gardens around the palace are
exceedingly beautiful,—especially those in front of the
chateau, laid out in English style. In other directions,
are those in antiquated forms, of a different order, yet
beautiful for variety. Streams of water and artificial
lakes are made to contribute to its beauty.
Located, as it is, in the wilds of nature, in the depths
of a forest of thirty thousand acres, it is an object of
attraction. Through it are beautiful drives, opening
upon bold ravines with precipitous rocks and glens, and
romantic views of picturesque beauty. We drove around
them, and looked down into the depths below; but,
though the perspective beyond the great gorge is of con¬
siderable interest, to an American eye, the forest is com¬
paratively tame, resembling in some degree those around
the quiet homes of East Feliciana, La., though the trees
were quite unequal to its lofty magnolia grandifloras.
We went to see a mighty oak, which they called
THE GROUNDS.
Ill
"the king of the forest;" but, really its size was quite
common in our green woods, and, to us, it did not appear
gigantic. But every thing depends upon comparison,
and it was large compared with those around it.
We saw, as we drove up these avenues, poor women
with such enormous loads of sticks upon their backs,
which they had gathered for fuel, that it was astonishing
how they could carry the weight. One long stick was
thrust through the center of the hunch, so that, stopping,
they could rest it upon the ground, and relieve themselves
of the cumbrous load. It was a pitiable sight to behold
them, laden like animals, the very picture of poverty and
wretchedness.
10
CHAPTER VII.
BELGIUM.
l3tU00el£!.—Leaving Paris for Brussels by the Northern
Railway, we passed through a delightful level country
cultivated like a garden. Brussels is one of the pleas-
antest and most interesting cities we have seen. The
western part is elevated and commands a view of all the
environs. The beautiful park with its shaded walks,
its clean and lovely promenades, fountains, and statuary,
the king's palace, the splendid Cathedral of St. Jacques,
and the bronze statue of Godfrey of Bouillon, are worthy
of the vast crowds that daily visit them.
212EattrlOO.—Our first object was to visit the plains
of Waterloo, at a distance of twelve miles. Our drive
gave us a fine view of the city, its elegant streets and
buildings, and its charming environs. The plains of
Waterloo are cultivated, and the plow is continually
throwing up relics of that dreadful battle which agitated
the whole civilized world. Beggars, and beggar children
followed our carriage all along the way.
The Pyramid of Waterloo is a high mound of earth,
said to cover the bones of thousands of the slain. Upon
the top sits the proud lion of England, looking toward
France in an attitude of bold defiance. The prospect
112
SOIGNES.
113
from the height is imposing, both from position and asso¬
ciation. It was told us that more Americans than English
visit this place.
SoiSnPS.—Returning, we drove through the beautiful
forest of Soignes,—one of the most singular of solitudes,
—a mighty temple of nature, with its arches and columns
formed of trees, which, throwing out branches at a height
of fifty or sixty feet, form arches so dense that the sun's
rays can scarcely penetrate them. The avenues thus
formed in this wilderness of trees without any under¬
growth, are most delightful drives and walks for the
citizens of Brussels. We here saw trees larger than
elsewhere in Europe. The elms in the park hear some
resemblance to those in Boston and other places in
America.
ÎLacesiKanufacÎOtg.—We visited this establishment
with high anticipations, having read so many descriptions
of it ; but it surpassed our expectations. The delicacy
of the fabrics, which are wrought with such gossamer
threads into patterns of beauty and richness, is astonish¬
ing ; nor is it less so, that the eye can bear such intense
application upon work so fine, without total blindness.
One lady, bowed down with age, sat at her cushion,
with her eyes almost touching her work. A piece of lace
for a collar, was shown us, as long and as wide as two
fingers, which it took six days to work. There can be
no deception in these laces ; they are perfect, and, though
delicate as a gossamer-web, they are strong.
datjebral of ©ubule.—Brussels is a Catholic
city, and has but one Protestant Church,—the English
114
BELGIUM.
Episcopal. The Cathedral of St. Gudule is a most mag¬
nificent structure. Its carved pulpit, designed in the
sixteenth century, is a gem of beauty of the most singu¬
lar kind. It is an allegorical representation of the
expulsion from Paradise. Adam and Eve stand by a
tree which sustains the body of the globular-shaped
pulpit,—she with the apple, and the death-skeleton
just above her head ; Adam, with the angel standing as
if driving him out. The canopy is supported by two
angels, while the serpent is seen rising in a spiral form,
like a column, from the tree below, throwing his head
over the beautiful canopy fringed with gold. The whole
is surmounted by the Virgin Mary and the infant Jesus,
with his foot upon the serpent's head. Below the canopy,
back of the pulpit, is seen the Saviour upon the cross.
The stair-railing is a representation of branches of trees,
with foliage, fruits, flowers, birds, and little animals. The
whole is so complete, and the design so emblematic of the
Creation, Fall, and Redemption of man, that it is impos¬
sible to withhold admiration.
The stained-glass windows are very beautiful : the
objects are not so crowded as often seen, but are large
and distinct. The high altar and the choir are exceed¬
ingly rich. We happened in at mass in the morning ; and
the music was superbly grand. In all the churches, we
observed oflScers in military costume walking to and fro,
in time of service. No lady is allowed to walk up the
aisle leaning on the arm of a gentleman, even though it
be her husband.
Ci)e ^arltatnent=i^OUSe.—This antiquated structure,
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.
115
adorned with a Gothic spire three hundred and sixty-four
feet high, is associated with the history of kings whose
influence extended round the world. Here hangs the
old Spanish tapestry illustrating the scene of the abdica¬
tion of Charles V.,—once very beautiful, but now faded
and dingy with time. The frescoes, the gilded cornices,
and all the antiquated relics of royalty, are more interest¬
ing than splendid at the present day. Every room has
its traditions.
^tI=laiCîf)apeUe.—We stopped a while in this ancient
city to see its antiquities. The cathedral, erected in the
eighth century, bears the marks of age upon its rugged
brow. To relieve its gloominess, a gilded statue of the
Virgin, encased in glass, has been placed in front, in
striking contrast with the huge rough stone.
Beneath the lofty dome, is a black marble slab, where,
it is said, lie the remains of Charlemagne. Suspended
under the second dome is the Virgin and child, sur¬
rounded by rays of light of gilded spikes. The town-hall
is also a building of great antiquity, adorned with fres¬
coes illustrating the acts of Charlemagne.
This place, celebrated for its boiling spring, is a great
resort for invalids. We drove around tbe wall of this
ancient city, and upon the hills above it, where we could
look down upon its walls and dilapidated towers.
H
10*
CHAPTER Vm.
THE RHINE.
©Ologne—t^e aTatflciiral.—We tarried one night at
this interesting city, and visited, the next day, its ancient
edifices. The celebrated cathedral, commenced in 1243,
is yet unfinished ; hut it is expected the stupendous work
will be completed in a few years. There are a multitude
of hands employed at the present time, chiseling marble
ornaments for its columns and arches. Within its
walls there are one hundred and four columns, one hun¬
dred and sixty feet high. The choir is remarkable for
its beauty, and the organ for its power. There is vast
wealth in this church. Within the holy shrine, secured
by a bolted iron door, are the skulls of three holy kings,
crowned with gold and set with diamonds and precious
stones. The whole shrine is sparkling with topaz, ame¬
thyst, and gems of great value.
Another apartment, called the Golden Room, has a
splendid shrine of gold and silver crosses,—one cross set
entirely with diamonds ; a crown of gold, sparkling with
brilliants ; and a ring of immense value, worn by one of
their kings. The room is a museum of artistic works in
ivory, silver, and gold, illustrative of the Romish faith.
ât. iöarg'Si —The old town-hall built by the
Romans, slowly crumbling away, has an aspect of ages
no
THE RHINE.
117
long gone by. Near it stands St. Mary's Church, of the
fourth century, where rest the remains of Charlemagne's
grandmother. It has an iron door with Old and New
Testament scenes engraven upon its panels. Within,
and of later date, stands a most beautiful statue of the
Virgin, in clay-colored granite. The majesty of the
figure and the intellectual expression of the countenance,
are so lovely that she looks like a model of heavenly
beauty.
—From Cologne we took passage up the
Rhine ; but, as we looked out upon the tame and spiritless
scenery, all the rainbow hues of fancy circling around it,
and all its imaginary beauties, dissolved like snow-wreaths.
Stopping at Coblentz for the night, we resumed our
voyage in the morning. The scenery began to change
and increase in beauty, till at length our dreams of the
Rhine were fully met. The high and projecting rocks, the
vine-clad hills, and the ruins of the Middle Ages,—castles,
towers, and fortresses, built upon the overhanging cliffs,
gave an interest peculiarly their own. It is wonderful
how these sterile, rocky bluffs have been brought into use
and beauty by the cultivators of the vine. They are cut
into terraces to the very top, and vineyards are formed
by carrying up soil sufficient for the vine to take root.
To produce well, the vine must be cultivated with much
labor and care. In the fall it is cut close to the ground,
and not suffered to grow too high.
The scenery upon the Rhine, detached from its ruins
and historical associations, does not surpass that of the
Upper Mississippi. As we advanced toward Mayence,
118
THE RHINE.
the mountains receded, and the valley became wider and
more level. The scenery was very fine from Mayence to
Frankfort-on-the-Main. Orchards loaded with fruits, and
fields filled with vegetables, the rewards of the almost
proverbial German industry, were everywhere seen. We
saw in one company over fifty women coming in from the
toil of the field. They were engaged in every species
of labor,—with the plow, the hoe, and with heavy bur¬
dens of every kind.
jFrattkfottíOn=t]^eíitílaín.—This is a most beautiful
city, rich in commerce, and full of life and motion. Some
of its shops equal those of London and Paris. The
Bohemian glass-wares are unsurpassed in any part of the
world. It seems as though the ingenuity of man could
not devise any thing more beautiful for household decora¬
tions than those exquisite imitations of leaves and flowers,
as true to nature as they are beautiful and brilliant.
The Library of Frankfort is worth visiting, if only to
see the portraits of Martin Luther and his wife, and the
shoes which he wore. Here is seen the first Bible printed
after the invention of the art by Guttemburg, and also a
fine marble statue of Goethe. We were shown the house in
which Luther lived, and the window from which he preached
out upon the square opposite the old cathedral ; and the
house in which Goethe lived,—his name still on the
door. There is a bronze statue of him in the Square, as
also of Guttemberg, Schœffer, and Faust, whose efforts
have done far more to improve the world than the genius
of Goethe's lyre. We saw the celebrated statue of Ari¬
adne, by Danneker.
FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN.
119
ISarOJt —We saw the great banking-
house of Barons Rothschild, and the residence in which
they were born and their mother lived and died. It is a
plain-looking dwelling, interesting only from the name of
those distinguished individuals ; and, by dispensation of
her will, occupied by her servants.
ÍTÍJC <!|uartec.—A few rods from this square,
we were led through a dark, dirty, nauseous street, into
the Jewish quarter,—one of the most dreary, repulsive
places we had seen. Some of the buildings were said to
be a thousand years old ; and they look as if it was true.
They are several stories high, but such miserable, dila¬
pidated-looking tenements as were shocking beyond mea¬
sure. Windows stuffed with rags, doors half falling
from their hinges, shops with broken furniture, old
clothes, rusty keys, nails, locks, and every variety of
unvendible articles, such that it appeared impossible to
conjecture of what use they could be. The women and
children, clad in squalid poverty, looking out at the
windows or dooi'S, appeared, like their dwellings,
wretched and miserable. In close proximity were the
princely possessions of the bankers who make kings and
emperors feel the power of their wealth. What a con¬
trast where such wealth and such poverty meet ! We saw a
most beautiful synagogue now building near the bankers',
which, when finished, will be a model of fitness and ele¬
gance.
iSabPlTiISaîIfît.—We left Frankfort for the Springs of
Baden-Baden, a most lovely watering-place among the
hills. It was crowded with the élite of the fashionable
120
THE RHINE.
world, as well as with lords and ladies of rank, seeking
health. But they die at this place as well as at others ;
for we read in the cemetery the names of many who
came to be healed of their diseases. In the cemetery
we saw the grouping of Christ and his disciples in the
Garden of Gethsemane, sculptured in coarse white lime¬
stone. The effect was fine, though the work was common.
(ïtasilc is situated upon the top of a craggy cliff,
nearly two thousand feet above the level of the sea, and
its highest towers form an observatory commanding the
whole country around.
We ascended upon donkeys, by a winding way through
beautiful groves and dark forests of most delightful shade,
until we reached the rocky cliffs upon which the romantic
castle is built. Arriving at the magnificent ruin by flights
of stone steps, we walked through its spacious court,
where large trees have taken root, forming a drapery of
rich, dark foliage for its open windows, doors, and roofless
galleries. It is on one of the most inaccessible heights that
could have been chosen for safety, and must have been a
place of romantic beauty and chivalrous power in the
Middle Ages. One department is kept well furnished,
by the Grand Duke of Baden to entertain his guests. He
owns all the lands around it ; and his palace, "Das Neue
Schloss," is built below, upon a terrace on the hill-side.
We were privileged to visit the under-ground rooms of
this castle, the horrible dungeons, and cells of torture
of the Middle Ages, the sight of which is enough to chill
one's life-blood and suspend for a while the throbbings of
the heart. We were conducted by a guide with a light
BADEN-BADEN—THE CASTLE.
121
through these subterranean passages and small arched
rooms, more dark and dreary than the tombs of the dead ;
passages so narrow that only one could walk at a time,
with heavy stone doors a foot thick, closing upon us with
a startling sound. These passages open into secret cham¬
bers, from which no mortal could escape, or a death-groan
be heard. In one room we saw large hooks fastened
into the walls, upon which the victims of cruelty were
suspended ; in another, a trap-door, to let the prisoner
down into a dungeon below, where sharp spears and
swords were fixed for the victim to fall upon in the
descent, to put an end to his miserable existence. Blessed
light of Christianity which has dawned upon the world,
banishing these barbarous cruelties !
On our way out of this labyrinth, we saw some Roman
baths in a good state of preservation.
The palace of the Grand Duke, built over these cells,
is modernized, and the grounds upon the terrace around
are very beautiful, abounding in shade-trees, flowering
shrubs, lovely walks, and gardens. We reached this first
castle by a flight of many stone steps, just the beginning
of the ascent to the other upon the hill-top.
Baden-Baden is not only celebrated for its baths, heal¬
ing fountains, castles, and romantic scenery, but for its
gambling-houses, where ladies of rank enter its fearful
drama, and are lost in the fascinating spell of its unhal¬
lowed attractions. To see woman thus drawn out of her
own sphere, in such bewilderment,—to see her who was
designed to shed a halo of light around the fireside and
122
THE RHINE.
the social circle, thus desecratiug her noble powers, is
lamentable indeed !
—In the museum of Basle, we were deeply in¬
terested in some relics associated with some of the great
Reformers. We were shown a chair and table upon
which Erasmus wrote ; and the portraits of Erasmus,
Luther, his wife, and Melancthon, Among the specimens
of the fine arts, was the original design of the " Dance
of Death," which we saw sculptured upon the arches of
Roslyn Castle, Edinburgh.
The cathedral is a massive, antiquated building, now
used for Protestant worship. It contains the tomb of
Erasmus, his epitaph being inscribed in letters of gold
upon one of its columns. In the library attached, we
were shown a large oaken chest, which once held his
manuscripts and books,—a few copies of which are still
seen, as well as the autographs of Luther, Melancthon,
Erasmus, and Zuinglius. There were several artists
copying some of the paintings of the cathedral. We
were shown the house in which Erasmus lived, and also
that of Burckhardt.
^f)e dountrg.—From Basle our route lay through
a most romantic country of narrow, rocky passes, with
deep valleys sprinkled with cottages, mills, and rural
scenes of great beauty. The hills, towering far above
us, are covered with dark firs, while ruined castles sit
perched upon their projecting cliffs. These bold and
rugged scenes along the Jura Mountains, as we approached
Lake Neufchatel, possess all the charms of romance, to
which the novel character and costume of the people
THE COUNTRY.
123
adds not a little. Each canton in Switzerland seems
to have a costume peculiarly its own. Reaching the
village of Bienne, we entered a steamer upon the beautiful
waters of Lake Neufchatel of a most exquisite emerald-
green color, resembling Niagara River in some of its
silent nooks of the shore. The Jura Mountains rising
in sublime grandeur, throw over the lake a charm of
somber yet poetic beauty.
11
CHAPTER IX.
SWITZERLAND.
®ícncba.—Never did the moon shine more brightly
than when it cast its soft beams upon the waters of Lake
Leman, touching with silvery light the surrounding
mountains, as we entered the harbor of Geneva, whose
beautiful crescent form reminded us of that of our own
New Orleans.
We had been on an excursion a few miles along the
shores of the lovely lake, to visit the chateau of the
celebrated Madame de Staël. The building was large,
but of questionable taste, with an open paved court,
surrounded with exotic plants and blooming flowers.
In consequence of visitors, we could not gain access to
the rooms she had occupied, but were conducted into the
grounds and through the walks which were laid out in a
style of great simplicity. There were long avenues
with a dense shade of overarching trees, leading into
groves with rocks and waterfalls, and undulating hills
and romantic dells. We sat upon the rustic benches in
the same arbor in which her lofty genius took its intel¬
lectual and imaginative flights, to find
"The truth, the beauty, pictured in her mind."
124
GENEVA.
125
Here she now sleeps beside the father she so much
adored, the distinguished Neckar,—the idol of her life,
the shrine at which she worshiped. Parental love
plumed the wings of her ambition and changed them into
gold. A little chapel in a garden, embowered in trees,
conceals their tombs from sight.
As we strolled near by them along the terrace-walk,
which commands a fine view of the lake and the snowy
peaks of the Jura, and the Alps in the distance, we
thought how minds like theirs must have expanded with
such prospects of nature before them.
On our return down the lake, the sun, just setting behind
Mount Jura, tinged the snow-wreathed brow of Mont
Blanc with a blaze of light of heavenly radiance, like the
warm flush of carmine thrown over a white fleecy cloud.
The whole scene was one of rare beauty. The environs
of the city, as we advanced near its borders, dotted with
country-seats among beautiful gardens and vine-clad hills,
presented a prospect
" Whose novelty survives
Long knowledge, and the scrutiny of years."
Geneva appears to be quite a center of attraction to the
great world. At our hotel we found the Duke of Mont-
pensier, son of Louis Philippe, with his family ; the
Queen-Mother of Spain, with all her suite ; Lord and
Lady S , from England ; and other distinguished per¬
sonages. But the greatest interest and attraction cen¬
tered in the eloquent and venerable Dean of Carlisle,
whose earnestness and pathos in behalf of the sufferers
126
SWITZERLAND.
of India in that fearful insurrection, commanded universal
admiration.
We heard a most excellent sermon from the oflBciating
clergyman in the evening, full of life and power. Geneva
is a Protestant city, full of interest both to the literary
and religious world. Its library is stored with curious
manuscripts of celebrated characters of antiquity. Here
are sermons of St. Augustine, of the sixth century, written
upon papyrus ; writings upon wax and vellum ; auto¬
graphs of Calvin, Luther, Melancthon, Erasmus, Sir Isaac
Newton, and others ; the liturgy of St. Chrysostom ; Cal¬
vin's letters to Lady Jane Grey; and portraits and busts
of many distinguished individuals.
The great cathedral is interesting from its associations
with Calvin. We were shown the pulpit in which he
preached, and many other memorials of that great, learned,
and pious man.
UaUcg of ffîijamouni.—We reached the interesting
Valley of Chamouni in one day from Geneva. Our course
lay through the valley of the Arve, amid wild mountains,
which seemed to rise like rocky ramparts, inclosing val¬
leys of rich verdure, dotted with fertile fields, little farm¬
houses, and clustering villages. As we ascended the
mountains, the valleys became narrower, more rugged, and
scanty in vegetation, the inhabitants evidently poorer,
and beggars more numerous,—many being deformed with
that repulsive swelling of the throat, the goitre.
ifHont ISlanc.—Like all others, we were disappointed
at the first impression of Mont Blanc as seen from the
valley, being unconscious of the elevation of more than
MONT BLANC.
127
three thousand feet, attained by the ride of fifty miles
from Geneva. In the morning, mounted upon mules,
with a guide hold of the reins, we ascended, by a winding
way, Montanvert, two thousand five hundred and sixty-
three feet above the valley. Here, while seated upon a
rock, the mountains first impressed us with a sense of that
power of the vast and sublime which overwhelms the soul,
and sinks it into nothing before the majesty of Him who
"weighs the mountains in a scale, and the hills in a
balance, and who has stretched out the heavens as a cur¬
tain, and the earth as a tent for man to dwell in." We
looked down with trembling, from that almost perpendicu¬
lar height, to Mer-de-Glace, the great Sea of Ice, in its
cold, gloomy bed, spread out beneath us, resembling a
mountain torrent arrested in its course, with all its bil¬
lows standing in heaps, defying alike the power of the
sun and the assaults of time. But to look up, and see,
towering away above us,
" The Alps,
The palaces of nature, whose vast walls
Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps.
And throned eternity in icy halls
Of cold sublimity; where forms, and falls.
The avalanche,—the thunderbolt of snow !
All that expands the spirit, yet appals,
Gather'd around these summits, as to show
How earth may pierce to heaven, yet leave vain man below."
How overwhelming the contemplation of such a scene !
Omnipotence seizes upon the soul, and fills it with awe ;
the feelings are indescribable; language seems not to
n*
128
SWITZERLAND.
belong to these emotions. These vast temples of nature,
whose snow-clad spires shoot up into the heavens seven
thousand feet above our heads, with their bold outlines re¬
lieved by a clear and intensely blue sky, while torrents,
rushing down from their snowy pinnacles, plunge into
the unknown depths of the Sea of Ice, adding grandeur
to these solemn solitudes, present a scene of sublimity cal¬
culated to inspire the most profound reverence for that
Being whose attributes are so strikingly visible in these
" His mighty works."
—Descending to the icy sea with cau¬
tious steps, we passed on to its surface with almost breath¬
less silence and fearful tread, following our guide who
led us step by step, making holes in the ice for our path,
upon the apparently rolling waves. It is only by stand¬
ing upon this solid sea, one can gain a correct idea of
this vast body of ice,—either of its depth or color ; for
the dust of the rocks sifting down upon its surface, de¬
stroys its transparency, giving it the appearance of the
dingy snow-drifts of a northern clime. But when looking
down into its fissures of fathomless depths, nothing can
surpass the beauty of its coloring. The purest gems from
the ocean's bed never presented more exquisite tints.
But the splendor of those icy caverns is in too close com¬
panionship with the terrible, to contemplate without a
shudder, for a single mis-step would plunge one into an
abyss unknown.
It took two guides to help us across the openings of
these yawning gulfs. It was, to some of us, a fearful un¬
dertaking. Yet our pathway among the bold and pro-
PYRAMIDE-DE-GLACE.
129
jecting rocks on the other side of the sea over which we
passed, was still more fearful and perilous ; and, had
Mrs. K and myself known the danger, we never
should have attempted it. For an hour and a half, in
almost breathless silence, we were led around ledges of
precipitous rocks, hanging five hundred feet above the
sea. In some places a rope was fastened to an iron
bolt in the rock, for one hand, while the guide held the
other, to aid us in edging our way along with careful
step to some safer place, where, when gained, we sank
exhausted from the efibrt. Notwithstanding all these
dangers, visitors by hundreds are continually climbing
along these steep and fearful passes, to get a more per¬
fect view of the grandest scenery of the world.
^grainthCiÏJCiffîlaCt. — In the midst of this sea are
formations more astonishing than in the gap above,—
towers of pyramidal shapes, lofty columns, temples, and
palaces. It was said some of the columns rose one
hundred and fifty feet high, although looking down upon
them they appeared less ; but with the aid of a telescope,
they rose both in majesty and grandeur.
One group, called the Grotto, presented the beautiful
forms of works of art,—but which art certainly could
never equal. Another, a crystal palace with doors and
windows of jasper, walls of emerald, and pavements of
azure studded with pearls, and sparkling as with dia¬
monds. But these treasures of the " Sea" could only be
seen in a clear day, by the aid of a telescope. Upon a
terraced rock, beneath a mighty cliff called the " Cha-
130
SWITZERLAND.
peau," cosily nestled a little cottage, for the resting-place
and refreshment of weary travelers.
These glaciers, impervious to the summer's sun, extend
down into the green valley below, standing, with their
cold, forbidding aspect, as icy monuments of the ages,
while flowers bloom beneath them. Sometimes the columns
break and fall with a crash like distant thunder. We
heard the explosion of one, while on our way. One of
the sources of the river Arve is from a torrent pouring
from this glacier.
people.—In the Valley of Chamouni are several
small villages of low houses, or rather house-barns,—for
the stables for the cattle are under the same roofs.
We saw men stripping oak and walnut trees of their
leaves and bundling them together for fodder. The
people are poor from necessity, being walled in by barren
mountains, and the sun shining upon them very sparingly.
Some huts are perched upon the mountain-sides so
steep as to be diflScult of access. It is surprising how
they contrive to live in such places.
The women appear to bear the heaviest burdens,—
working in the field, and carrying loads upon their
shoulders, like our native Indians. Straps passing over
their heads, are attached to baskets reaching to the
ground. Upon the banks of the Arve, we saw one woman
cultivating a patch of potatoes upon the side of a ter¬
raced rock so high, that, had she fallen over its side, it
must have proved instantly fatal.
CHAPTER X.
SOUTHERN FRANCE AND NORTHERN ITALY.
Soutt of jTtancr.—From Greneva we took a
private conveyance through the mountains of Savoy into
the South of France, among its hills and valleys, crowned
with vineyards and fruit-trees in great abundance. It
was the time of vintage, and the people were busy in
their harvest. The inhabitants among these hills are
very primitive in customs. We passed through a vil¬
lage where dwelling-rooms and stables were side by
side. Notwithstanding the great amount of travel through
these mountain gorges, from Paris and Lyons to Geneva,
customs remain unchanged, unless it is in respect to
money; for prices at the hotels are equal to those of
the most elegant in Paris or London. We entered one
of these miserable-looking inns, and there sat an English
lord and lady, with their son, at dinner. The kitchen
was in the front of the house, and the fireplace took
up most of the apartment where they were cooking.
The sitting and dining room, though dark and dreary,
was fitted up with some idea of civilization, though far
removed from the refinements of the present age.
îtgons.—^^Taking the cars for Lyons, we spent one
night in that beautiful city, having an opportunity of
I 131
132
SOUTHERN FRANCE.
going round it in the morning. In some parts, it resem¬
bles London. Its fine streets lined with buildings six
stories high built of white limestone, and its fine squares
laid out with taste, give it an air of elegance quite im¬
posing. It is now alive with improvements, as well as
Paris, to which Bonaparte has, it seems, given fresh
impetus. Whole streets are undergoing a change, to
widen them, by having parts of the houses taken off and
their fronts improved by beautiful stone. The extensive
shops were filled with silks of unrivaled elegance, wrought
in their own factories.
"fcXallrg of tfft livtone.—Our route from Lyons to
Marseilles lay along the lovely valley of the Rhone. The
chain of mountains extending along its sides, with ancient
ruins of towers and castles upon lofty heights and boldly
projecting cliffs, with small cities and villages scattered
along the way, gave an air of romance to the scene. The
land appeared rich and highly cultivated,—great attention
being paid to the silkworm, if we might judge from the
number of mulberry-trees along the valley. The climate
is soft and balmy, and the whole country delightful.
JïlarsetlleH.—This, though a great commercial center
where fioat the flags of all nations, is not a pleasant city.
The streets are narrow, the houses high and old, the alleys
dark and dreary ; though the public promenade, the Prado,
is considered beautiful, and some other places of note which
we did not see. The market for fruits and flowers was
fine,—the latter beautiful. Each flower-girl sat upon a
throne wreathed with bouquets so ingeniously arranged
above and upon the stand where she sat, that they looked
PIEDMONT.
133
as if designed to ornament herself rather than to sell.
We saw a multitude of stalls in the narrow streets, where
women were busy making shoes. On leaving the city,
we drove through some fine parks lately planted, which
will give an additional charm to the place. Taking
steamer to Nice, we had a most boisterous passage on the
Mediterranean, with its usual accompaniment, sea-sick¬
ness, rolling and tossing all night upon a heavy sea.
Lying all over the deck, were a host of poor, swarthy
Italians. We found none of the comforts of American
boats, setting aside all pretensions to elegance.
TSricr.—The city appeared, as we approached it, as
though built upon the side of a rocky cliff ; but, though
the rocks and hills tower high above it, there is width
along its coast sufliicient for streets and squares of great
beauty. There are fine promenades planted with trees ;
but we had little time to view the place.
^itítntíiní.—Id the morning we took the diligence for
Genoa, through the mountainous country of Piedmont.
As we ascended the high terraced hills, and looked
down into the valley below, covered with the olive,
orange, lemon, citron, grape, and fig, it was perfectly
enchanting. The transparent waters of the Mediterra¬
nean with their exquisite shades of purple, azure, and the
most delicate violet, blending with the sky above and with
the earth around, threw over the expanse a softness that
the pencil of the most accomplished artist could never
equal. Such a scene never met our eyes before. Every
opening upon the sea, in our winding way among these
hills covered with the olive and vine, presenlted dyes of
134
BOUTIIERN FRANCE.
rare beauty; and the rocks in the little coves seemed
to be washed with waves of emerald, so brilliant were
its reflections in the morning sun. Our journey all
the day was one of unrivaled beauty. Cities were seen
clustering around the bleak hills, and cottages nestling
among the olive-groves terraced along their sloping sides.
In some places we saw women in companies, carrying
stones and burdens of great weight upon their heads, to
fix their grounds for cultivation. In this country her
position has not been elevated by the light of Christianity,
and she is yet compelled to bear the heavy burdens of
life,—at least among the lower classes which we saw labor¬
ing in the fields.
©fttoa.—Arriving at Genoa in the evening, the latter
part of the way we only had a glimpse of the rocky
clifis which dipped in the sea, and heard the dash of the
waves against their sides as we passed.
Genoa is truly a city of marble palaces, and its situa¬
tion one of great natural beauty. It is said to have
suflered but little change during the lapse of many cen¬
turies. Some of the streets look dark and fearful, being
very narrow and lined with houses seven or eight stories
high.
^ala^^O idalhi.—We visited some of its palaces and
churches. Palazzo Balbi, built in the seventeenth cen¬
tury, has a court surrounded by three tiers of porticos ;
the uppermost, inclosed in glass, attached to the family
apartments. The rooms are all richly ornamented, the
vaulted ceilings painted with interesting designs by native
artists, and the walls hung with various Scripture scenes
PALAZZO REAL—CHURCHES.
135
by Italian artists,—Joseph interpreting the chief butler's
dream, Angelo's conversion of St. Paul, and an infinite
variety from the first masters.
lËleal.—This palace has a front three hundred
feet long, and is so beautifully adorned with works of art,
mirrors, gildings, statuary, and paintings, that it appears
more like a picture-gallery than a dwelling. The throne-
room is splendidly decorated, and the bedrooms regally
furnished. The library or study of the king was most
interesting, because there were many books of great
value lying upon the center-table and on the shelves, as
if, amidst the splendor of outward things, the mind was
not wholly forgotten.
di^utcl^es.—The churches as well as the palaces
are loaded with the richest of ornaments. The Annun-
ciata literally dazzles the eye with the gilded carvings
which cover its vaulted ceiling. It is rich in the
fine arts, as well as in marble and gold. St. Lorenzo,
built in the eleventh century, is very rich, and is
said to have many historical associations as well as
legends attached to it. The chapel of St. John the Bap¬
tist is considered the richest portion, into which no
female is permitted to enter, only once in a year! This
is said to have been imposed by Pope Innocent VIII., in
remembrance of the daughter of Herodias. There is a
great number of fine statues in this church,—one of
Zacharias, much admired. The relics of saints are con¬
tained in an iron-bound chest; but they say they have a
still more interesting relic, the Sacro Catino, composed of
one single emerald.
136
NORTHERN ITALY.
^t£ia, encircled by the river Arno, is a most beauti¬
ful city, having clean streets, well-built houses, and parks
adorned with trees, statues, and walks ; but the multitude
of beggars which follow the footsteps of every stranger,
detracts from its pleasure and destroys its charm. They
are like a cloud of locusts. The moment we enter the
door of our hotel, or leave it to step into a carriage, they
surround it in swarms, old men and women, little chil¬
dren lifted up to the windows and doors, all begging for
charity. This picture of every-day life dissolves the spell
of the most fascinating scenes.
ÎTijC îLtaning ííTolDer.—The Campanile, or Leaning
Tower, the picture of which almost every child who reads
has seen, is a most singular and beautiful structure. Its
eight stories are surrounded with marble columns, sup¬
porting semicircular arches, forming galleries all the way
to its top. The prospect must amply reward those who
ascend it ; but the fatigue looked so great, we did not
make the attempt.
C$C dattthral itself is a magnificent building, but to
the philosophic mind has ivithin, an object of greater in¬
terest than itself,—the bronze lamp whose oscillations
suggested to Galileo the idea of the pendulum. His very
name invests the whole building with a peculiar interest,
and throws around it a spell of enchantment. The high
altar-piece, designed by Michael Angelo, is one of the
most beautiful specimens of artistic skill that has met our
eyes. It is composed entirely of gold and silver, so
chaste in design and so delicate in finish that it looked
unlike any thing of earth, but rather something let
FLORENCE.
137
down from the heavens to astonish us with its glory !
The angels which sustain the shrine, are so divinely beau¬
tiful, with their silver robes and burnished wings, that
they present to the imagination the form of heavenly
messengers sent down to earth to reveal to us the beauty
of the upper world !
The pulpit is of finely sculptured marble ; but the altar-
piece of the Virgin crowned by an angel, is a gem of art.
All the altars are decorated with costly marbles, verd
antique, lapis lazuli, bronze, gilt, porphyry, and precious
gems. There are many most beautiful paintings upon
its walls ; and upon its ceiling, is a colossal figure of
Christ in mosaic, more elaborate than beautiful. The
church is of singular architecture,—a union of the Gre¬
cian and the Arabic, rich in materials, having its external
walls adorned with columns of the finest marble and por¬
phyry. The wealth of such a church can scarcely be
estimated.
The baptistery, a thing of beauty, is filled with sculp¬
tures of most delicate forms and of unrivaled genius.
We had only a glance into its cloistered cemetery, or
Campo Santo, where is deposited earth brought by the
Crusaders from Mount Calvary, as sanctified dust for
sepulchral purposes.
;jFlor0Tlcr.—From Pisa we took the cars for Florence,
enjoying the rich prospects of Tuscan scenery, rendered
more beautiful by the crumbling ruins among vine-clad
bowers which dot its hills. Every thing we saw was
strikingly characteristic of its history, literature, and
fine arts. We arrived at the city in the evening, but
138
NORTHERN ITALY.
early enough to walk along the banks of the Arno.
Taking lodgings near one of its bridges, we found all the
comforts of our English hotels. We soon caught sight
of the old Medicean palaces with their lofty towers and
massive walls.
®íran"0 Uucal palace.—In the morning we drove
to this seat of regal magnificence, and saw its halls of
dazzling splendor, with velvet draperies, costly mirrors,
gilded ornaments, and sculptured forms of " antique
mold." There was some confusion of furniture in the
ante-room ; for the Pope had just been entertained at the
palace and left his marks behind. But in all the daz¬
zling splendor of these halls, we saw nothing to surpass
Napoleon's throne-room at the palace of Luxembourg, in
Paris. The old Palazzo de Medici contains the Uffizi
gallery of paintings and statuary, so numerous and ex¬
tensive that it would be impossible to give any descrip¬
tion of such a world of art. The Pitti Palace unfolds
to the enraptured vision another world of art, no less
extensive or enchanting. The museum attached to
the palace, has a very extensive collection of natural
curiosities ; but one of the most interesting depart¬
ments was that of the anatomical museum, containing
wax models of all the stages of disease, so perfect that
they were really startling. Every artery, nerve, and vein
has its coloring and place with the most surprising truth¬
fulness and delicacy. There were several rooms filled
with these specimens. In an adjoining room, were seen
models of the plague in London, and many others of a
like character. The wax representations of fruits and
THE TRIBUNE—CHURCH OF SANTA CROCE. 139
flowers in other departments, afforded rare advantages for
the study of plants.
Crihune, or Temple of Galileo, attached to the
building, is the most interesting part of all ; associated
as it is with the struggle of truth and genius against
bigotry and ignorance. At the end of the arched hall
stands his colossal statue of polished marble,—a noble
form with an expansive brow and an eye beaming with
the light of superior intelligence, and seeming to animate
the cold marble. The busts of his favorite pupils are
arranged in a gallery around him, and on the walls above
are paintings illustrating his intellectual conflicts with the
bigoted princes who imprisoned him. The room fur¬
nished with the works of his hands, and the instruments
he invented, are yet there, a proud monument to his un¬
dying fame.
Ôî^urci^ of S>awta drocc.—A century after his death,
in the Church of Santa Croce, was erected a splendid
monument to the memory of Galileo ; but, even then, the
prejudices of the clergy were so strong against him, that
it was with difficulty the privilege of depositing his re¬
mains there could be obtained. The country which would
not allow the great astronomer to be interred upon con¬
secrated ground, is now willing to place his name as a
star of the first magnitude in their constellation of intel¬
lectual greatness. There also stands the proud monument
of Michael Angelo, before whose shrine the votaries of
art all bow, and to whose genius the wide world pays
homage.
His monument is wrought with great skill, and orna-
^2*
140
NÛKTHERN ITALY.
mented with four sculptured figures representing Art,
Painting, Architecture, and Sculpture, as mourners. The
whole is surmounted with his bust, said to be a faithful
likeness. The monuments of Angelo, of Dante, "the
father of Italian poetry," Alfieri, Machiavelli, and
many others, throw around this church a halo more
brilliant than the diadems of kings or princes. So many
of the illustrious dead repose within its walls that it is
well compared to Westminster Abbey.
StUbiO.—Our American artist has a studio
of no common interest to an American heart. We were
received with great kindness and affability. He is a fine-
looking man, of agreeable manners, and with a bland
countenance and an eye lighted up with the enthusiasm
of his labor. Our countrymen may well be proud of him.
His studio is filled with busts of our most distinguished
characters ; in the center of which, stood a colossal
bronze statue of Daniel Webster.* He was finishing the
Genius of California for New York, emblematic of the
Golden State.
We left Florence with a lingering look behind, for
there were pleasing associations clustering around it, un¬
like any other place. It was full of English and Ameri¬
can visitors, some of whom make a somewhat permanent
home among its palaces.
âtcatnhoat.—We passed on to Leghorn, and, after a
few hours in that city, took the steamboat for Civita
Vecchia on our way to Rome. Never did we meet such
* Now in front of the State-House, Boston.
CIVITA VECCHIA,
141
a motley throng of all nations, and never hear such a con¬
fusion of tongues, as on the boat. It was so full that
mattresses were spread all over the floor of the cabin be¬
low, as well as the deck above. We found it much more
comfortable sleeping in the pure air above, with an awn¬
ing spread over us, than in the confined atmosphere below.
Among the noticeable personages on board, were some
nuns, who attracted much attention. One of them, of
great beauty and most interesting manners, with a mild,
pale face and lustrous black eyes, had in her charge two
lovely little girls. They were privileged with a state-room
by themselves. We met the lady afterwards in one of
the churches of Rome, and learned that she was the
daughter of Louis Napoleon, and had been a nun from
her twelfth year.
ÖTibiiaUcccJta.—We landed at Civita Vecchia amidst
a host of beggars, hailing us the moment we reached the
wharf. Among the group was one with her distaff in
hand, spinning as she went. The city was a disagree¬
able, dirty place, filled with all sorts of people, out of
which we gladly escaped. Here, however, we met some
Americans on their way to Rome,—Mr. and Mrs. E.,
from Alabama, with whom we afterwards spent many
agreeable weeks in Rome and Naples.
ScfWttg.—We found the country along the coast des¬
titute of cultivation, but apparently rich enough, if
improved, to supply all the beggars of Italy with
bread. There were ruins of old Roman bridges, roads,
and fountains, relics of former strength, power, and higli
civilization.
142
NORTHERN ITALY.
We met one Italian herdsman clothed in sheep-skin,
with a long lasso in his hand, looking as if he belonged
to a tribe of banditti. Atr night we Ipdged at the ruins of
a grand old castle at Poli, washed by the sea, whose waves
with their ceaseless music lulled us to sleep, if sleep we
could enjoy over the stable where our horses were lodged,
and from which the odors penetrated to our chamber.
It looked as if it was once a fortress of power, hut
now it is an Italian inn, where the prices are as exorbi¬
tant as tbe fare is miserable and the flies abundant. Its
inmates had more the appearance of robbers than of civil¬
ized people. Their presence created a dread. In the
court, the walls of a beautiful ruin, a fountain, and a
broken statue were seen, relics of its former grandeur.
On our way we passed groups of men and women
sitting upon the ground like bands of gipseys. How de¬
graded are the poor people of Italy in a land of such
native beauty ! In the higher lands, nearer Rome, there
were signs of better cultivation. In one field we saw
thirty or forty ploughs, but of the rudest construction,
drawn by four oxen abreast.
We passed under several rustic arches erected in honor
of the Pope on his return from Florence.
CHAPTER XI.
ROME,
ïtnprcSStOîlS.—Rome, with all its classical asso¬
ciations, is now before us. We are not disappointed, un¬
less it is in feeling a greater admiration for its works of
genius and art than we anticipated. The remains of an¬
cient grandeur are wonderful. The ruins of its temples
and palaces, its broken arches and columns, have a lan¬
guage most eloquent.
To pass under the triumphal arch of Titus Vespasian
and look upon its bas-reliefs, illustrative of the conquest
of Jerusalem, and exhibiting the soldiers bearing off the
golden table and the seven golden candlesticks, trophies
from the temple of Solomon, must arrest the attention
and feelings of every Christian traveler. Although the
revolutions of time have mutilated its form, yet its grace¬
ful proportions, with many of its ornamental designs, are
still visible.
(íTciliSfUin.—Near it stands the Coliseum, that magnifi¬
cent amphitheater, whose ruins astonish the world ! No
pen or pencil can do it justice, and language is too feeble
to convey an idea of the vastness and elegance of its design.
We sat down beneath its moss-grown walls to contem¬
plate its grandeur, with feelings deep and sorrowful.
143
144
ROME.
To think of Rome, in the splendor of its glory, filling
this mighty amphitheater with its thousands to witness
its various scenes of public amusements,—its gladia¬
torial fights, and also its martyrdom of Christians,
thousands of whom were thrown into that spacious arena
for wild beasts to devour,—must ever touch every Chris¬
tian heart. Its glory has departed, yet its rays of splen¬
dor still linger upon the walls, throwing, like the departing
sun, a gleam over its magnificent ruins. Ascending the
highest gallery, a small part of which is yet in good pre¬
servation, we looked around, awed by the sublimity of the
scene. The heart was full to overflowing in the contem¬
plation of such grandeur in decay ! Beyond these walls,
rise in royal magnificence, the palaces of the Caesars, the
arches of Constantino and Titus, and the temple of Venus
and Rome, the ruins of all of which meet the eye, and fill
the mind with wonder and admiration.
St. Octet's.—The first impression is that of simplicity ;
and, notwithstanding all the combinations of art in its
decorations, the effect upon the mind is like that of look¬
ing out upon the canopy of heaven or upon the works of
nature, so exceedingly chaste and beautiful is the unity
of the whole. Like a poem in its classical arrangements,
perfect in style, touching in incident, divested of all need¬
less ornament,
" Majesty,
Power, glory, strength, and beauty, all are aisled
In this eternal arch of worship undefiled."
And, although at the first glance the size does not
aflect one as that of vastness, yet, as we cast our eyes up
ST. PETER'S.
145
around its lofty domes and vaulted arches, this beautiful
temple increases in magnitude, till our thoughts are better
expressed in the language of true poetry :—
" Enter—its grandeur overwhelms thee not ;
And why ? It is not lessen'd, but thy mind,
Expanded by the genius of the spot,
Has grown colossal, and can only find
A fit abode wherein appear'd enshrined
Thy hopes of immortality ; and thou
Shalt one day, if found worthy so defined.
See thy God face to face, as thou dost now
His holy of holies, nor be blasted by his brow."
Never was the genius of architecture more fully deve¬
loped in a temple of worship, than in this design of
Michael Angelo. It is impossible to look upon it without
admiration. The mind does not become weary from the
multiplicity of objects,—such is the unity of parts,
the grace and harmony reigning through the whole, so
chaste and elegant are its ornaments, its statuary, fres¬
coes, and mosaics. ¥et all the elaborate work in the
decorations does not look excessive.
^f)e Slltaï of St. Peter, under the central dome,
has four spiral columns ninety feet high, yet in perfect
proportion with the building. The cornice and canopy,
ornamented with gilded carvings of elaborate workman¬
ship, are crowned with the globe and cross.
In the tomb of St. Peter, where tradition says he is
buried, lights are kept burning night and day. A balus¬
trade of marble surrounds this mausoleum, where one
hundred and twelve gilded lamps are continually burning.
A double flight of marble steps leads down to its shrine.
146
ROME.
where a beautiful statue of Pius VI., by Canova, is seen
kneeling at prayer before the tomb. Opposite this altar,
sits the bronze statue of St. Peter, with bis right foot
extended, the toe of which, we saw numbers kiss, pressing
their foreheads most afiectionately against it. Little
children were lifted up to imprint a kiss from cherub lips
upon the cold bronze.
We ascended the dome of this church by flights of steps
so easy and broad that a carriage might be driven upon
the inclined plane. We could not realize the elevation
until we reached the first roof and looked upon the colos¬
sal statues surrounding it, which when seen from below
look to be life-size. To go over the roof and along the
colonnade which surrounds the dome, seemed like walking
among streets and houses, every thing is upon such an
extensive scale. The prospect from it is truly grand.
Rome and its environs are seen to great advantage. The
Tiber, of classic notoriety, rolls along its turbid stream
among time-worn walls and bridges lined with statues
which still remain to tell of its ancient glory, while the
hills which encompass it, dotted with palaces and villas
amid groves of olive and orange of romantic beauty,
look like a spacious amphitheater. The Apennines are
seen in the distance, tinged with the soft hues of an
Italian sky.
To look thus upon Rome as it is, and think what it was
in the days of its power and glory, what events have tran¬
spired within its walls, what thrilling scenes full of inte¬
rest to the intellectual and religious world, been enacted,
takes in a compass of thought too great for the human
THE CHURCH OF ST. JOHN LATERAN.
147
grasp, and the mind sinks into its own nothingness in the
contemplation of that Providence which presides over the
destinies of nations, controls them for the good of His
creatures, and teaches man of that wisdom which cometh
from above.
of St. ifo^n Eateran ranks next to St.
Peter's, and, though infinitely inferior in design, has
many objects of interest. In it, the holy relics are kept.
In a private cabinet, we were shown a table which tradi¬
tion says is the one upon which our Lord partook of his
last supper. It is preserved in a glass case covered with
a curtain, and seen by the light of a lamp. It is a very
old piece of wood, and has the appearance of having
been frequently mended. The columns which adorned
the house of Pilate, and many other relics, as well as a
stone which formed the mouth of the well at which
the Savior found the woman of Samaria, were shown us
by a priest with profound superstitious veneration.
This stone, which is very nicely carved, is placed upon
the top of a well in a garden attached to the cloister
below.
In this church, are some chapels which are not sur¬
passed in splendor anywhere. They are like gems, ra¬
diant with beauty. The Corsini almost hashes with the
fine polish of its rich and delicately adorned marbles of
the most exquisite dyes. The high altar has a Gothic ta¬
bernacle of singular workmanship, of the fourteenth cen¬
tury, which tradition says was designed to contain the
heads of St. Peter and St. Paul, found during that period.
K 13
148
ROME.
The altar-piece, a beautiful design of Guide's ; the emblem¬
atical figures of the cardinal virtues which ornament the
room ; the mosaic floor ; the splendor and richness of its
decorations, lavished with unsparing hand, yet with the
most artistic taste, make this chapel a gem of matchless
beauty. Below is a crypt containing many superb
monuments.
Near this, the Torlonia family have another chapel of
the modern school, full of grace and beauty, and fair as
a snow-wreath. The sacristy and mausoleum below, cor¬
responding with the style above, are reached by flights
of marble steps. The whole is a most magnificent dis¬
play of vain-glory and earthly vanity. The baptistery,
built by Constantine, was to us an object of peculiar in¬
terest. It is a circular edifice, surrounded by eight por¬
phyry columns ; its dome and walls are covered with
mosaics illustrating the history of his conquests—one also
of the cross which it is said he saw in the heavens ; and
another of the large baptismal font of green basalt, in
which he received its rites.
átala Santa.—In another building we saw the
staircase which tradition says belonged to Pilate's house,
which none but penitents are permitted to ascend, and
they only upon their knees. We saw two going up: one
kissed the steps before he started. They are so rapidly
worn away that every three years they have to be cased
with wood. There are three flights of steps,—two to
walk down upon. Groups of most beautiful statuary are
placed on each side of the penitential staircase,—our
Lord when about to be betrayed, and when bound to be
Trajan's column.
149
led away, and Judas betraying his Master with a kiss.
There is the most touching expression of sorrow in
the countenance of our Savior that we have ever seen,
—the very sublimity of sorrow and grief.
Crajan'0 Öloluntn.—What a history is written upon
the columns which still adorn this city ! That of Trajan
stands alone in its grandeur, with a time-honored brow
of more than seventeen hundred years: yet there it
towers, a shaft of one hundred feet, a model of beauty
never surpassed, nor perhaps equaled, by succeeding
generations. A spiral wreath is entwined around it from
the pedestal to the top, with a bas-relief of most exquisite
sculpture, illustrating his conquests in the Dacian war,
his bridge of boats, and other scenes in great variety,
with the costumes of the age.
The pedestal also is a bas-relief of illustrations of
equal importance. The column of Marcus Aurelius is
built in the same style and in good preservation.
í!rí)t ^anti)eon.—It is impossible to describe our feel¬
ings on entering the temple of the Pantheon and looking
upon its faultless form. That temple, familiar as house¬
hold words to every seholar, was built by M. Vipsanius
Agrippa, b.c. 25, and was adorned with spoils of the
celebrated battle of Actium, in Egypt, gained by him
b.c. 31. It still bears the inscription M. Agrippa L.
F. Cos. Tertium fecit." It was repaired and greatly
enlarged, early in the third century, by L. Septimus
Severus and his son Caracalla. Pope Boniface IV.,
receiving it as a gift from Emperor Phocas, dedicated
it as a Christian church to the Virgin and the Holy
150
ROME.
Martyrs A.D. 609. In the middle of the seventh cen¬
tury it was despoiled by Constans II. to decorate his
imperial palace at Constantinople. But as he was re¬
turning, his death at Syracuse permitted the plunder,
consisting of the gilded house-plates that covered the
roof, the bronze bassi-relievi of the pediment, and the
silver that adorned the interior, to be carried to Alexan¬
dria, thereby restoring to Egypt, after a lapse of more
than seven centuries, the wealth of Actium.
On the portico is seen the record of the act of Urban
VIII., who removed more than forty-five million pounds
of bronze, taking all the bronze beams of the portico
and melting them into the tabernacle of St. Peter
and the canon of St. Angelo. He also gave a portion
to ornament the Barberini palace, which is commemo¬
rated in the following pasquinade:—
" Quod non fecerunt Barbari fecere Barberini."
Although dismantled of its external ornaments to
adorn the Vatican and other places, yet the sculptured
cornice is entire : its bronze dooi-s and Corinthian co¬
lumns, its pavement of porphyry and various-colored
marble, are all there in their simple grandeur. It is now
transformed into a place of Christian worship, and adorned
with as many chapels as there were heathen divinities.
In the third chapel lies the form of Raphael, the immor¬
tal artist, which gives an increasing interest to the en¬
thusiastic traveler. A tablet to his memory is there,
with other insignia of his fame.
"Beautiful as the Pantheon is, it is not what it was.
During eighteen centuries it has suifered from the dilapi-
SISTINB CHAPEL.
151
dations of time and the cupidity of barbarians. The
seven steps wbicb elevated it above the level of ancient
Rome are buried beneath the modern pavement. Its
rotunda of brick is blackened and decayed ; its leaden
dome, overlooked by modern cupolas of every neighbor¬
ing church, boasts no imposing loftiness of elevation ;
the marble statues, the bassi-relievi, the brazen columns,
have disappeared ; its ornaments have vanished, its
granite columns have lost their luster, and its marble
capitals their purity : all looks dark and neglected, and
its splendor is gone forever. Yet, under every disadvan¬
tage, it is still beautiful,—pre-eminently beautiful. No
eye can rest on the noble simplicity of the matchless
portico without admiration, and without feeling what is so
rarely felt,—that there is nothing wanted to desire, no¬
thing committed to rectify. Its beauty is of that sort
which, while the fabric stands, time has no power to
destroy." (Rome, 19th Cent., v. i., p. 254.)
âtSitWf —Yesterday we went to Sistine Chapel,
to attend high mass, celebrated by the Pope and cardi¬
nals,—one of the most imposing, pompous displays of
church and military power combined we ever witnessed.
We were ushered into the chapel with martial music
and almost deafening guns. We had excellent seats
to witness the entrance of the grand cortege. The pro¬
cession of cardinals with their white tunics and trains
of long scarlet scarfs, held up by their attendants, passed
near by us.
Ci)? came in at another door, arrayed in his
pontifical robes, supported by cardinals and princes
13«-
152
ROME.
of blood of the highest dignity, who sat each side of his
throne upon a platform raised for the occasion. His
golden mitre, white satin robe embroidered with gold,
and diamond ring, shone most brilliantly as his majestic
figure moved in the ceremonies. When he rose, the folds
of his mantle fell most gracefully around him ; and when
he sat and wished to move his hands, the two cardinals
threw back its rich corners, heavy with gold. The car¬
dinals and other dignitaries came up one after the other,
kissed his hand, bowed, and passed on. The two by his
side held a prayer-book of velvet, lettered in gold, with a
gold embroidered cover of white satin ; and a third held a
wax candle while he read aloud. They jingled the bells
amid the smoke of incense, and responded the musical
A-m-e-n, and the choir of fine singers chanted and sung,
filling the vaulted arches with divine music. Some of the
cardinals went through the ceremony of kissing the
Pope's toe, or foot, or robe,—we could not tell which, as
they bent down. He wiped his brow with a gold-embroi¬
dered kerchief as they took off his mitre when he knelt
before the cross. The high-priest, with a white mitre
and gold-embroidered cloak of white satin, and several
other priests most gorgeously arrayed, performed cere¬
monies before the high altar. An orator preached in an
unknown tongue, and with singing and chanting the ser¬
vices ended. The royal cortège moved away in Oriental
magnificence, each cardinal with three carriages and richly
liveried servants, the horses and harnesses glittering with
gold, each suite being distinguished by different colors.
St. (ftatlosi —We went to this church to wit-
ST. CARLOS CHURCH.
153
ness the celebration of high mass, in honor of its presiding
saint. The military lined the street on both sides to a
great distance. A company of cavalry advanced amid
sounding trumpets and beating drums ; then the train of
cardinals, as before. After all these had passed and
entered the sanctuary, there was a brief pause, and
then the salute of a gun, and a band of music. The
royal carriage of scarlet and gold, drawn by six black
horses glittering with Oriental splendor, with servants in
livery surpassing all the rest in richness and elegance,
came driving up with its attendants. The Pope was
borne from the door upon the shoulders of twelve cardinals,
emblematic of the twelve apostles, to his throne or chair
of state, which was covered with silver tissue embroidered
with gold. Every arch was hung with curtains of crimson,
blue, yellow, and Avhite satin, fringed with gold, having
strips of gold tissue thrown over the drapery. The walls
all around the sides of its chapels were hung with silk
damask bordered with gold. After the ceremonies were
over and the Pope had left, a cloud of incense still lingered
around this tabernacle, and a multitude of poor Italians
were kneeling before the altars at prayer. Many were
gathering up the yellow sand which had been sprinkled in
the street from the Vatican to the Church, over which
the Pope had passed. It had received the Pope's bless¬
ing, and will be kept as a relic.
We have been highly favored with the society of some
Americans whom Ave met on the Avay,—Esquire E. and
lady, from Alabama ; Mr. Knight, lady, and daughter,
from Natchez, Miss.
154
ROME.
Capitol.—This ancient citadel, covering about eight
acres upon one of the Seven Hills, is of the most interest¬
ing character. Wide marble steps lead to its court on
one side, where, standing upon its walls, are the colossal
statues of Castor and Pollux, each with a horse as if
ready to mount, with all the Past written upon each
brow in Time's indelible mark. In the center of the
court, is the magnificent equestrian statue of Marcus
Aurelius, of historic memory.
We entered the tabularium of this lofty building, and
found a perfect museum of sculptured relics from ancient
temples, fragmentary, but beautiful still. We were led
under vaulted arches, some of whose passages extended
far under ground, leading to a private staircase, like a
well, near the temple of Vespasian, supposed to have
been designed for escape in times of danger. We
ascended the tower, and stood in the cupola to enjoy the
prospect of the Seven Hills, which appear to better ad¬
vantage here than from the dome of St. Peter's. The
prospect of ancient Rome was complete. The Forum,
with its broken columns and arches, beneath us ; the
yellow Tiber in its windings ; the Palatine Hill, covered
with the ruins of the palaces of the Caesars ; the Tar-
peian Rock ; the Baths of Titus and Caracalla ; the wide
waste of Campagna, with its monuments in the distance ;
the Coliseum, in its own unrivaled magnificence, filled
the soul with a sense of the grandeur and power of
ancient Rome. The broken statue which now crowns
the summit of the cupola speaks in a silent language,
THE VATICAN.
155
that Home is no longer, as once, queen of the nations
and mistress of the world.
The galleries below were crowded with antique statuary
and busts of heroes, poets, statesmen, orators, and sages.
In one room was the far-famed Dying Gladiator, whose
expression and attitude are thus described by the poet:—
" He leans upon bis hand;
His droop'd head sinks gradually low,
And through his side the last drops, ebbing
From the red gash, fall heavily, one by one.
Like the first thunder-shower; and now
The arena swims around him,—he is gone.
Ere ceased the inhuman shout which haii'd the wretch who won. '
That elegant and accomplished Rome, with all its
intellectual and social refinements, could revel in amuse¬
ments like these, exhibits one of the darkest shades of
human depravity, and shows the necessity of that hidden
life which the religion of Jesus Christ alone can give.
Rome with its historic and classic associations, awakens
every feeling within the soul which lingers around the
past, as the rays of the setting sun tinge with its golden
light the darkened cloud of coming night. Rome only
lives in the past, and is the center of all that is great in
architectural beauty and grace, in poetry, history, elo¬
quence, and the fine arts. There is but one St. Peter's
and one Vatican.
ÍTíjí Uatícan is filled with treasures of art, which have
never been surpassed, and which will stand as models of
beauty for the rest of the world forever; for when art
approaches the nearest to nature it is the most per¬
fect : it cannot go beyond. Its wealth in costly marbles
156
ROME.
and precious stones, aside from its works of art, is incal¬
culable.
We went to see the famous staircase, Scala Regia, cele¬
brated for its singular perspective. It consists of two
flights of marble steps,—the lower decorated with Ionic
columns, the upper with pilasters of the most exquisite
marble. The arches appeared like long tunnels, orna¬
mented with flowers in stucco of great beauty, purely
white. Scala Regia led to the audience-chamber, and
served as a vestibule to the Sistine Chapel. No lady is
allowed to enter this chamber : we advanced toward the
door, but were ordered back immediately. However, we
caught a glimpse from the threshold of some of the
frescoes with which the walls and ceiling are covered.
The Massacre of St. Bartholomew, we were told, is
represented finely in fresco.
The pride of modern Rome is its churches ; and it is
pitiful to see such an enormous waste of wealth.
Ct)0 (íf)UCCÍ) of St. —In this church are
two chapels of surpassing richness, St. Sacramento, and
the Borghese. St. Sacramento has a gilded tabernacle
supported by four angels in gilt. The frescoes, statuary,
and ornaments are all of the richest kind. There is a
crypt or mausoleum, below. Tradition says that the cradle
in which our Savior lay, is here. Going down some
marble steps, we saw a group of statuary of the Virgin
and Child, another of Simeon taking him up in his ai'ms,
—a most perfect piece of sculpture ; but we could not see
the sacred treasure : it was kept locked. They have a
solemn procession with it every Christmas. But the
NEW ST. PAUL'S.
1Ô7
Borghese Chapel, opposite, surpasses this in magnificence
and architectural decoration. The grand altar of the
Virgin, has four fluted columns of Oriental jasper; on
the gilded entablature above, in bronze and gilt, is the
miracle of snow. The splendid frescoes and sculpture,
the exquisite marble and mosaic floors, all make this a
gem of beauty so elaborately finished that it looked as
if the treasures of India had been lavished upon its
decorations. St. Peter's is complete in itself; but
others have particular chapels, which are their chief
glory.
St. Raul's.—There is a new St. Paul's now going up,
—its exterior is quite common, but within it is very beau¬
tiful,—built upon the old site. The remains of the former
building form its cloister, into which no lady is permitted to
enter. We stepped upon the threshold, but a priest forbade
our entrance. The place was too sacred ! The new St.
Paul's is rich in alabaster and marbles of exquisite colors.
Its high altar is supported by columns of porphyry, with
pedestals of malachite, lapis lazuli, and alabaster. An¬
other altar was made almost entirely of malachite. It
now looks like a colonnade of some magnificent temple,
—four rows, and twenty-five in each. It does not look
like a place of worship, but a grand promenade. Below
its high altar, is a splendid mausoleum, where tradition
says St. Paul and Timothy were both buried.
Statuts.—The colossal statue of Julius Caesar indi¬
cates the character of the statesman to fine effect. His
countenance bears an intellectual expression marked with
his decision and energy. We also saw a bronze antique
158
ROME.
bust of Brutus,—said to be a correct likeness. That of
Socrates falls infinitely below our idea of the moral
attributes of the great philosopher. We could not asso¬
ciate the ideal with the physical, they were so wide
apart. That of Diogenes was the Stoic well expressed.
There were innumerable antique models of distinguished
persons, men and women. The statue of Pompey, in
the Spada Palace, in its own severe dignity and grace,
forms the chief attraction among its works of art.
^ppian 212äag.—This most famous Koman road
was called " Regina Viarum," " Queen of Roman Ways."
The expense of its construction as far as Capua (one hun¬
dred and twenty-five miles) exhausted the public treasury.
Portions of its pavement are still in good repair, although
in use more than two thousand years. One of the most
interesting excursions is a drive along this road. Ruins
of once magnificent tombs, line the way for ten miles;
and, although stripped of their ornaments, stand in
their desolate grandeur as mausoleums of the dead.
That of Csecilius Metellus, like some beautiful temple,
retains its form, a subject for the pencil of the artist;
and there sat one, with his pallet, painting it on the spot.
We saw a great variety of tombs of classic and historic
association, among which were two mounds, said to be
the tombs of the Horatii and Curiatii. Another very
singular ruin was a sepulcher, so large that a farm¬
house and an olive-garden were upon its top.
It was on this celebrated road that St. Paul met "tfie
brethren," who came "as far as Appii Forum, and the
APPII FORUM.
159
Three Taverns ; -whom when Paul saw, he thanked God,
and took courage."
^PPii dTorum is forty miles from Rome, or two days
journey. Sallust, in his journeys from Rome to Brun-
dusium, always remained here the second night. Paul
had reason to thank God and to be encouraged when he
met the Christian brethren who came forty miles from
Rome to meet him ; and more especially when, after
traveling sixteen miles farther, he met another com¬
pany of the brethren at the Tres Tabernas, Three
Taverns. Tradition has marked the places hallowed
by the recollection of this exhibition of Christian love
and fellowship, as well as of trial and suffering for the
cause of Christ.
Cfia of âcipios were dark and gloomy
vaults with intricate windings and subterranean passages.
We saw their names engraved upon tablets of stone,
although their tombs were tenantless. The remnants of
an antique lamp hung in one little arched recess, with
the smoke upon the walls, left when it lighted the cham¬
bers of the dead.
(Kplumharia, into which we descended, was quite
perfect. It was built like a temple under ground, arched,
and ornamented with painting. There were many shelves
filled with vases and urns containing the ashes and bones
of the dead. Some of them were open, presenting their
contents to our sight.
(Eloaca iïlaaûna.—This underground canal i's one
of the most interesting works of Rome, not only for its
antiquity, but from its being the sole remains of Etrus-
14
160
ROME.
can architecture. It is as solid and massive as when
first built; and notwithstanding the revolutions of time,
earthquakes, falling towers, and inundations of the
Tiber, it is still entire, and serves as the common sewer
of the city. It was built by "Tarquinius, one hundred
and fifty years after the foundation of Rome." Twenty-
four centuries have passed over it ; and its strength gives
promise of its witnessing as many to come. It is said to
have cost the enormous sum of $1,655,000 to have it
cleansed and repaired.
C$0 Jïlaînettinç prisons.—This stupendous work of
antiquity remains a lasting monument of the power of
Rome in its early times. It is built on the side of the
Capitoline Hill, behind the arch of Septimus Severus.
We descended into its horrible dungeons, where the
light of day never penetrates nor a sound is heard. In
one of its lowest cells was the Tullian prison, where it
is supposed Jugurtha was starved to death, and the ac¬
complices of Catiline strangled. Truly it is a place
of awful associations, filled with gloominess and horror.
These prisons were occupied only by state prisoners.
Each prison was constructed of very large, hammered
stones, and had two cells, the upper one being about
tAventy-five feet by twenty, and fourteen feet high. It
had no entrance except at the top, where was a small
aperture through which prisoners were let down, there
being no stairs or steps of any kind. Through the floor
to this cell was a similar entrance to the second cell.
These were the only openings for light and ventilation.
The lower cell was elliptical, and about seven feet in
BATIIS OF CARACALLA.
161
height. In the upper cell of the one we entered was a
chapel, ornamented with a shrine and an altar for
devotion. Here tradition has fixed the prison of St.
Peter.
Beggars meet us everywhere. The mendicant monk
stands at the door of the church or in the street, and
those of every age and form hold out the hand for alms
every hour of the day. What a government, so to neglect
the poor !—if indeed they are poor !
I3aihS of ©aracalla.—We spent one day among the
Baths of Caracalla and the Palaces of the Caesars. These
baths are more perfect than any now existing in Rome,
and their ruins among the most extensive, occupying an
area of nearly a mile in circuit, and ranking next to the
Coliseum. These, like almost all other ruins, are stripped
of their ornaments. The mosaic pavements with their
rich colored borders, are still discernible in some of the
rooms. Fragments of the fallen roofs, of mosaic designs,
lie in masses. The most elegant models of ancient sculp¬
ture which enrich the Italian Museum and the Vatican,
were found here. It is said that when the granite columns
of the porticoes were removed, the roof fell with such a
fearful crash that the inhabitants of Rome thought it was
an earthquake. The remains of this structure, so vast,
noble, and grand, are calculated to give us some idea of the
architectural development of the age, the immense wealth
of the people and the sumptuous style in which they lived,
as well as their voluptuous manners and customs.
" In these baths were one thousand and six hundred
seats of marble, besides the bathing-tubs of granite and
162
ROME.
porphyry, two of which now serve for fountains in the
Piazza Farnese." Many pieces of sculpture which orna¬
mented this palace, are now in the museum of Naples.
The celebrated Hercules, the Torso Belvidere, and two
gladiators, are now in the Vatican at Rome. The central
hall of this mighty mass of ruins is said to he six hun¬
dred and ninety feet long and four hundred and fifty
wide. Underground rooms have been discovered; and
we saw one, with its floor paved in mosaic, perfectly
entire. It requires no small eflTort of the imagination to
picture to the mind the splendor of this once majestic
edifice, which, in its ruin, so overawes us with its
grandeur.
We ascended the wall by a staircase which led to a
small part of the roof now remaining with its mosaic
pavement overgrown with weeds and lichens. The wild
flowers now growing over its walls and pavements, bloom
and scatter their perfumes upon the air where the great
and wise of Rome once trod in rohes of imperial grand¬
eur. We looked down from these fearful heights into
its winding labyrinths and immense halls with their
broken columns, reflecting upon the ravages which time
makes with all earthly greatness. It was among these
ruins that Shelley wrote his Prometheus. We rejoice
that we have a country that needs none of these things,
whose air is free from the despot's breath, and whose
waters and fountains are not subject to his power.
Kffe i3aíí)¡S of JDiocletian are of immense size. Forty
thousand Christians are said to have been employed upon
this work ; and some bricks have been found with a cross
PRIVATE PALACES AND VILLAS.
163
upon them. A portion of these ruins was changed into
a church by Michael Angelo. We saw in the vaulted
roof, the metallic rings upon ivhich anciently the lamps
were suspended, and eight massive columns of Oriental
granite standing where they were first placed. By some
addition to these ruins, they were converted into the form
of a Greek cross by that great architect, and preserved
from destruction by ecclesiastical influence. The monks
of St. Bernard and the Carthusians have a convent and
garden within these walls.
ÎTJt iSatljS of diUS, on the Esquilme Hill, are com¬
paratively indifferent and almost unintelligible. The
ruins are scattered over the hills and vineyards. They
have passed through so many hands that they are now
indefinable. Their situation was beautiful, overlooking
the northern side of the Coliseum.
palaces anh "Filias.—These splendid build¬
ings—open to visitors certain days of the week—are
wonderful depositories of the treasures of art. Among
the multitude of paintings in the Palazza Corsini,
was Salvator Rosa's famous picture of Prometheus
chained to a rock. The vulture devouring his vitals fitly
represents the care, anxiety, the love of gain, and other
evil passions which prey upon the heart of man. This
palace contains a library of seventy thousand volumes
and many MSS. The gardens behind the palace are ex¬
tremely beautiful. There were flower-beds in the center,
surrounded by shaded circular walks, and adorned with
statues. Leading up the sloping hill are a series of
marble steps, over which the water from a fountain at
L 14®
164
ROME,
the top forms little cascades. Farther up, at the base
of another hill, is a temple with a colossal statue. A
winding pathway through a grove, led to its summit,
where was a little villa, which commands a fine view of
Rome.
FJilla ISorflljeSt, on the Pincian Hill,—adorned
by Marco Antonio Borghese, a noted collector of works
of art,—beyond the Porto del Popolo, presents grounds
three miles in circuit, diversified with avenues of cypress,
groves of trees, and all the beauty of an Italian garden.
A portico of immense length displays Doric pilasters,
taken from the arch of Claudius, now destroyed, repre¬
senting, in bas-relief, Romulus and Remus suckled by the
wolf, and others of classic story. A saloon fifty feet
high and sixty long is ornamented with beautiful frescoes.
The busts of the twelve Caesars are over the doors and
windows. There is a multitude of rooms, all of which
are stored with works of art of exceeding beauty. The
third gallery, resembling in size the saloon, has twenty
pilasters, each adorned with medallions executed by the
first artists of Rome. The Venus by Canova—for which
the Princess Borghese, Pauline, the sister of Napoleon,
sat—is seen in one of its galleries, slightly draped. It
did not strike us with the beauty she was said to possess.
While in Rome, Napoleon purchased, for more than a
million and a half dollars, over three hundred works of
art at this villa, among which are the master-pieces now
attracting visitors to the Parisian galleries.
STiboli.—The drive to this city—called by the ancients
Tibur, and founded five centuries before Rome—was one
TIVOLI.
of unusual interest. For nearly twenty miles we passed
through a country once adorned with villas and temples,
now a desolate waste, with only a few ruins of tOAvers or
tombs standing in isolated grandeur.
Every thing on our route was interesting, even the
lake with its sulphurous odor, the Arno, and the milky-
looking waters of the canal. The reflection of the sun
upon the hills of marble crowned with ruins, and the soft
violet tints resting upon the distant perspective which
bounded our sight, so peculiar to an Italian landscape,
gave an additional charm to every prospect.
But when we reached the sloping hills of Tivoli, crowned
with luxuriant groves of olives, our pleasures were in¬
creased by the beauty and extent of the valley below,
clothed in the richest verdure. No wonder this de¬
lightful scenery inspired poets, who have immortalized in
verse its transcendent charms. Horace reveled in its
beauties, and made his home in its peaceful shade, where
still remain traces of his once romantic villa. Here died
Syphax, King of Numidia, two hundred years before
Christ; and within its environs Zenobia, Queen of Pal¬
myra, lived in Oriental splendor.
But Tivoli, with all its classical associations, is a
miserable place, though built upon a hill overlooking one
of the most picturesque valleys in the world, whose
native rocks formed grottos for heathen divinities, whose
every grove made melody, and whose streams filled the
air with perpetual music.
But how changed ! This beautiful country, once the
resort of the Muses, of elegance and taste, is now filled
166
ROME.
with a degraded population and thronged with beggars.
Its groves and streams now chant a melancholy dirge
over its fallen greatness.
We entered a Roman villa situated upon one of the
most elevated hills, and found in its deserted halls, some
relief from the swarm of beggars which pursued us. We
counted at one time no less than fourteen men, women,
and children in a single group.
The view from this palace, surrounded with marble
balustrades and statuary half buried in the earth, was
most charming, overlooking a deep, green valley shaded
with cypress, orange, and other evergreens. The Roman
divinities which adorned these walks, have gradually
crumbled away, and their features have lost their expres¬
sion. The trellised arbors below have grown into a
thicket ; the grottos and gardens are full of rubbish ;
and this once enchanting spot looks desolate and dreary.
A broken figure of a Nereid lies near what was once a
fountain ; but now nothing is seen except the rim of the
cistern, it being filled with earth and grass. Cypress
trees rise to the height of ninety or a hundred feet above
the valley of most beautiful greensward.
The piazza on which we stood, was paved with mosaic,
though overgrown with grass and moss. In the large
paved court is a broken fountain ; hut the view is re¬
lieved by a lovely sculptured grotto, with a wood-nymph
kneeling upon a rock, in the midst of trees and over¬
hanging cliffs : her form is mutilated, and her features
defaced, but the design was exquisitely beautiful. The
fountain has ceased to flow, and all is still. The coloa-
Hadrian's villa.
167
sal bust of a poet still adorns its walls ; but the music
of the lyre and the forms of grace and beauty which glad¬
dened these halls, have passed away. The alleys, alcoves,
and walks of this villa, are seldom trodden but by the
feet of strangers.
ÍÍTeinpU of Sthpl.—The temple of the tenth sibyl,
Albania, is built upon a rocky precipice overhanging the
cascade of the Anio, which rushes down into the abyss
below, in a roaring, foaming torrent of a hundred and
fifty feet descent. The scene is one of most singular
wildness and romantic beauty. This temple of the Tibur-
tine sibyl, associated with the fine arts in their meridian
glory, stands on the very spot where the eye of taste
would have placed it, as a beautiful shrine when these
hills, grottos, groves, and dells Avere vocal with the
music of the lyre, and when the wise and learned consulted
these oracles of wisdom. It forms one of the most attract¬
ive features of Tivoli.
?l?abriaTl'S Imilla.—On our return from this romantic
spot, we drove to the villa of Hadrian, near the foot
of the hills. Here was his imperial palace with its
courts, fountains, baths, saloons, corridors, and gar¬
dens, its temples for priests and its cells for prisoners,
whose massive walls still remain. The military bar¬
racks, surrounded by green groves, are on the gentle
declivity of a hill of great extent. Here were libraries,
theaters, amphitheaters, and schools of the philosophers,
where the emperor could enjoy all the amusements
of Rome within the precincts of his own palace. The
waters of the Anio Avere turned out of their natural
168
ROME.
course to supply his baths and fountains, and to form a
lovely stream through his grounds, the bed of which is
now dry. The gods of Egypt were transferred to his
temples, and Serapis had a place at the shrine which
he worshiped. The place was well chosen for a full
development of a taste improved by travel through all
parts of the Eastern world. His villa extended over
three miles in length, by one in breadth, in a country
whose natural scenery could only excite the highest emo¬
tions of pleasure,
2ri)e iíHausoleuin of —On our return to
Rome, we visited the splendid mausoleum of this great
emperor, now the Castle of St, Angelo, To immor¬
talize his ashes, he built a sepulcher as much above others
in grandeur and magnitude, as his villa. For well has
the poet said of St, Angelo—
" But thou, of temples old, or altars new.
Standest alone, with nothing like to thee!"
A magnificent bridge, constructed by him, crosses the
Tiber directly in front of this noble edifice. This bridge
is of itself a work of art. It is guarded upon each side
with statues of saints and angels, still expressive of their
design, though centuries have passed over them. They
bear their ancient honors with a noble grace, and no one
disputes their claim. We entered this mausoleum with
peculiar awe. Passing down a winding way to the crypt,
we satv where his magnificent sarcophagus of porphyry,
now in the Church of St, Lateran, was placed,. A co¬
lossal head of Hadrian, now in the Vatican, was found
THE GROUNDS.
169
in a niche here. The passage had been stripped of its
marble facings, and in our descent we could gather frag¬
ments of mosaics with which it was paved. The vast
rotunda had been surrounded by Corinthian columns, and
above, the cornice of the portico is now ornamented with
many statues. Though robbed of its decorations, it stands
conspicuous as one of the noble monuments of the artistic
taste of the emperor. It is now occupied as a military
station. It commands one of the finest views of the
Vatican and of Rome.
J^abrian'S CetnpR.—Hadrian designed a double tem¬
ple, to show that he was superior as an architect to
Apollodorus, whose skill in building the Forum of Trajan
had excited the envy of the emperor. But the honest
criticism of the great architect, when elicited by the em¬
peror upon his double temple, cost him his life.
The building was designed upon a magnificent scale,
elevated " upon a platform of seven marble steps three
hundred and sixty feet long, and one hundred and
seventy feet wide," and the fragment now left is thought
to be one of the best to convey a correct idea of the
grandeur of imperial Rome. These temples are supposed
to cover a part of the site of Nero's Golden House, a de¬
scription of which is given by the historian Suetonius.
" There was nothing," says he, " in which Nero was
more expensive to others than in his buildings : he en¬
larged his house upon the Palatine to the Esquiline hills.
He first called it his Thoroughfare, but, it being burned
down, he rebuilt and named it his Golden House. To
give Rn idea of its extent and beauty, it is sufiicient to
170
ROME.
say, that, in its vestibulum* Avas placed his colossean
statue, one hundred and twenty feet high. It had a
triple portico, supported by a thousand columns : a re¬
servoir of water like a sea, surrounded with buildings
that resembled cities. It contained fields, vineyards,
pasture-grounds, and woods, in which were a variety of all
sorts of animals, both wild and tame. Its interior shone
with gold, gems, and mother-of-pearl. In the vaulted
roofs of the eating-rooms, were ivory tables that turned
round, and, from pipes, scattered fiowers and perfumes
on guests. But the principal eating-room was a rotunda,
so constructed that it turned round, night and day, in
imitation of the motion of the earth. His baths were
supplied either with sea-water, or with sulphureous waters
of Albulae. However, having finished and dedicated this
house, he only said that now he should begin to live like
a man."
The choicest works of art that adorned this sumptuous
villa, are now seen in the Vatican, and other galleries of
Rome. Here the Venus de Medicis, the wonder of the
world, now among the statuary at Florence, was found.
Several museums of Europe are indebted to this palace
for many of their richest and most valuable treasures.
Among its ruins are many massive walls and arches
left unbroken, in the majesty of decay, where the bird
finds a nest and the reptile a home. About the court¬
yards overgrown with weeds, the olive-tree has taken
deep root and spreads wide its branches loaded with fruit;
* A court between the house and the street.
THE PALATINE HILL.
171
beneath the tall grass, mosaic pavements can be seen
by scraping off" the soil which covers them. The beau¬
tiful avenue which leads up to this villa is bordered with
box twelve feet high. The grounds present all the va¬
riety that the most fastidious taste could desire ; and
although the place is divested of all its splendid deco¬
rations, the ruins, more impressively than language can
express, tell, in silent eloquence, the history of its former
glory, and the vanity of earthly splendor.
tïTfje palatine ?^iu.—We had previously walked over
the Palatine Hill, where once rose in royal splendor the
palaces of the Caesars, now overgrown with trees which
cast their tall shadows over their moidering ruins,—
" Cypress and ivy, weed and wall-flower grown
Matted and mass'd together, hillocks heap'd
On what were chambers, arch'd, crush'd columns strewn."
The site was beautiful, commanding the prospect of the
Coliseum and the proudest temples of Rome. We
thought, while standing there, no wonder that Caesar was
ambitious, or that Brutus was envious ; for the natural
mind knows no boundaries when ambition has choked all
human sympathies and aifections, and the world lies
within its grasp.
villano.—On ascending the sloping hill to reach Al¬
bane, we obtained a prospect of the most imposing and
impressive character. Rome in the distance, with its
domes, towers, and obelisks, rose amid the magnificent
ruins of the Campagna ; the Mediterranean, spread out
like a mirror, reflected the sunbeams from its surface ;
and the hills, with ruins of castles and temples upon
15
172
ROME.
their heights, presented one of the most interesting and
varied ememhles in the country.
ÜTfie ®^Oînt) of ílompeg attracted our attention as soon
as we came in sight of the village. A lofty tower of
massive stone rose, like a pyramid, four stories high,
with a sepulchral chamber twelve feet long and eight
broad. This mausoleum was designed upon the same
magnificent plan of those along Via Appia near Rome.
It was once cased in marble, but only a few blocks in its
corners remain ; for, like all other ruins in and about
Rome, it has been entirely stripped of its ornaments.
—Stopping for a while in the village, we
entered the paved court of one beautiful villa overlooking
the Campagna. In the center was a marble fountain, with
sculptured lions guarding it, pouring streams of water
from their mouths. What riches lie buried along the hills
and shores of the Mediterranean, relics of which remain
to tell of the glorious Past ! No scenery is more diversi¬
fied, or beautiful for the display of architectural grand¬
eur than along this sea, with its rocky heights, deep dark
dells, groves of olive, chestnut, and cypress. In the
midst of this almost paradise of beauty, are innu¬
merable villas, with their orange-groves and gardens of
evergreen. It is impossible to describe scenes of
such loveliness in a climate so soft and bland, and
where vegetation grows in such rich luxuriance. The
mountains, which form a wall upon one side, give the
appearance of scattered ruins, thus adding variety to
the singular landscape. The road through the marshes
being elevated, is a most excellent drive. Toward its
Bartholomew's studio.
173
termination, for many miles it is shaded with beautiful
trees. Herds of cattle and sheep feeding upon the
prairie-like land, and shepherds watching them, are the
only dwellers in these solitudes where once were seen
chariots with emperors and princes, and proud warriors
with glittering helmets and plumes, and where strains of
music from villas perched upon the hills or nestled
among olive-groves and blooming gardens in sunny
nooks, were echoed back from marble walls. Just as we
reached the termination of the road, the sun was throw¬
ing its last rays over the promontory which bathes its
broad base in the beautiful sea, and, sending a bright
glow over the hills, touched with gold and crimson the
bold outline of the ancient Circe, kindling, with its flash¬
ing light, the lofty summits almost into a flame. Glorious
indeed was the scene, calling up vividly the historic
names written upon its brow. Upon those heights are
seen the ruins of the villas where Cicero, Atticus, Poly-
bius, and the Roman emperors were wont to retire ; some
to enjoy the beauty of the scenery, some for quiet study,
others for the pleasures of the chase, and others for the
luxuries of the sea, and the delicious oyster and flsh so
noted by the Roman epicure.
" The scene soon changed.
A paler shadow strews
Its mantle o'er the mountains ; parting day
Dies like a dolphin, whom each pang imbues
With a new color as it gasps away,—
The last still loveliest, till 'tis gone, and all is gray."
lSartî)tilomch)'0 âtuhio.—A young man by the name
of Bartholomew, from Hartford, Conn.,—inspired by our
174
ROME.
American poetess, Mrs. Sigourney, who discerned his
genius and encouraged him to persevere,—came here a
poor boy, and has worked his way up, until his pro¬
ductions rank with the first compositions of the age.
He is now in America, having returned, we learn, for the
improvement of his health ; but his works are progressing.
His Eve surpasses all other designs of her character,
beautiful as they are. Her history is told at a glance.
She is sculptured in a most graceful sitting attitude, with
her head drooping and eyes cast down, with the very ex¬
pression of penitential sorrow and grief in her beautiful
features. Her tresses flow over the shoulders, while
beneath her feet and around the pedestal the serpent is
twined, and the forbidden fruit lies upon the ground.
The pedestal upon which she sits has beautiful bas-reliefs
of Paradise, and the Expulsion,—each a picture in itself,
of which artists were taking copies. The whole as a
composition, wrought in the most beautiful marble, is
thought by good judges, worthy to be classed with works
of the highest merit.
(ttratoforh'S Stuhio.—The studio of Crawford, of well-
earned fame, is filled with the spirit of beauty; and,
although he has left this earth, his genius is here
breathing in his marble statues, which will live after him
as monuments of his creative power. His colossal statue
of America, wreathed with stars, designed for the Capi¬
tol at Washington, is a most magnificent figure; his
Dying Indian Girl, and other compositions of equal beauty,
remain in his studio among his rich treasures of art,
with the immortality of genius stamped upon them. His
Gibson's studio.
175
Indian Chief, in a sitting posture, also for the Capitol,
is a history of the vanquished race. His sad, dejected
countenance tells the tale.*
(íRihson'íf âtuhio.—The distinguished English sculp¬
tor, S. Gibson, has a studio worth the attention of travel¬
ers. He is said to have united the styles of the two
greatest modern artists, Canova and Thorwaldsen. His
studio is rich in gems of the most exquisite beauty,—
several rooms filled,—among them Miss Hosmer's Bea¬
trice, " The last hours in the Cell," and Puck, from
Shakspeare.f She is a pupil of Gibson.
Another lady from America, a pupil of Crawford, de¬
serves the attention of all true Americans,—Miss L.
Lander. She is now moulding in clay Evangeline, from
Longfellow's poem ; a composition which, when finished,
will no doubt be as much admired for its beauty as the
poem itself. She has another original composition which
does her much credit,—Virginia Dare, the first child of
English parents in America,—born at Roanoke, August,
1587, and named after the district of Virginia,—grand¬
daughter of John White, Governor of the colony.
* The America and Indian Chief axe now at Washington, awaiting
the completion of the Capitol. The eastern pediment of the Senate
building is to be ornamented with twelve pieces, all by Crawford, viz. :
America, in the center; on the right, the Woodcutter, the Hunting
Boy and Hound, the Indian Chief, the Indian Mother, and the Indian's
Grave; on the left, the Navy, Bowditch, the Students, the Schoolmaster
and Pupil, the Mechanic, and the Ship and Anchor. Crawford's last
work. Freedom, in plaster, now standing in the old Representatives'
Hall, is a colossal figure, nineteen feet in height, designed to sur¬
mount the new dome. It is to be cast in bronze by Mills,
f Now in the Boston Athenœum.
15*
>It. OUvet
C.St.Elmol
Somma
Y^Yesuvma
""'-VS
Toro '>rj
Amalfi
/J/SS-orreuto
ENVIRONS
OF
NAPLES.
PROCIDA
IS c n IA
1(1. Leo (Japo.
1. Pompeii.
2. JleiTulojieum or Portici. 11. Resina?
3. Lake Averuus.
4. Puteuli.
5. Naples.
6. A'irjiil's Tomb.
7. (Jrotto of Posilippo.
8. Mt. Pausilipus.
9. New Grotto.
12. Tone del Greco.
13. Aimunziatta.
14. L. Lucrinus.
Ifi. ij. Fnsori.
16. Siilpliutarea.
17. Bay of Baia3.
18. Ca]iklemoiite.
" Promontory of
Torrento
CHAPTER XII.
SOUTHERN ITALY.
Heabtng i^otne.—We rose early to leave the city
wherein we had for some weeks enjoyed the most elevated
intellectual pleasures. Its ruins, its works of art, its
efforts of immortal genius, make Rome in itself a world,
whose historic glory invests every object with absorbing
interest. It is a living monument of the irrevocable
Past. Two thousand years ago, the classic wave of
the Tiber rolled along its shores, bestudded with magni¬
ficent temples and palaces. Now all is ruin. We looked
again and again, with sad delight, upon the silent and
solemn monuments scattered over the Campagna along Via
Appia, and upon the lofty but broken arches of the aque*
ducts which adorn its landscape.—
" That heap
Of moldering urns ; their ashes blown away,
Dust of the mighty !
Where Caasars, heroes, peasants, hermits, lie
Blended in dust together."
As our vetturino drove his heavy carriage along, the
warm flush of morning threw a purple haze over the dis¬
tant hills of Tivoli, and the whole country was tinged
with a mellow light, soft as the twilight hour.
The climate of Rome is delightful, as far as we can judge,
this month, December, being neither too cool nor too warm
irr
178
SOUTHERN ITALY.
either for comfort or health. No city in the world is
better supplied with fountains of water. The ancients
understood its worth, judging by the rich provision left
as a legacy to their descendants, who seem to make
very little use of the limpid streams, either to cleanse
themselves or the streets. This country, so lovely in
climate and so rich in soil, with a different govern¬
ment, could be made an earthly paradise where the
fruits and products of almost every zone could be culti¬
vated with advantage ; but it lies a comparative waste ;
poverty, ignorance, and beggary are met in every path¬
way. Could the rays of Protestantism fall on this
dark moral world, earth would spring forth into beauty,
and sunlight brighten its cloudy horizon. Never did the
light of pure Christianity shine more bright, than in con¬
trast with the display of forms and ceremonies of this
country.
(fíapua.—Before reaching Capua, about fifteen miles
from Naples, we crossed " a magnificent bridge" with a
triumphal arch, over the river Vol turno, built by Domi¬
tian when constructing a road from Puteoli to Sinuessa.
It was rebuilt by Frederic the Second, whose statue,
standing near the gates of the city, interested us.
" Modern Capua, built in the ninth century, was
treacherously taken by Caesar Borgia, who put three
thousand of its inhabitants to the sword." We saw some
buildings, as we passed along, which bore marks of anti¬
quity. They were surrounded with sculptured fountains.
Madonnas, the Crucifixion, shops, stalls for fruit, and
bakeries, all blended together, with the dirt peculiar to
NAPLES.
179
these Italian cities. The tastes of the inhabitants are as
much degraded, as those of the ancients were refined.
"PitttBathS.—The country along the entire route from
Capua to Naples, appears like one continued range of
vineyards and gardens. The cultivation of the vine is
difierent in Italy from that upon the Rhine. It is trained
upon trees peculiar to the country, whose branches shoot
out around the body a few feet from the ground, like a
basket ; and the twigs appear to be woven together in a
net-work to sustain the vine, while some of the runners
are fastened to other trees along the road-side, thus sus¬
pending rich clusters of grapes from beautiful wreaths.
All along the Mediterranean coast, the vine is culti¬
vated in this manner. The peasants are now trimming
it of every superfluous branch, and preparing it for an¬
other crop. The grapes of Italy are of most delicious
sweetness. Pears, apples, peaches, prunes, oranges, and
other fruits, also, grow in great abundance. Walnuts
and chestnuts form a great article of food, and were added
to the desserts of our table every day.
Naples.—Passing through the narrow, dirty streets
swarming with beggars, in the suburbs of the city, we
stopped at the angle of the Bay, where hundreds of beings
were crowded together, of every variety of manners, cus¬
toms, and language, civilized and uncivilized. In the
market-place hung the image of the Saviour upon the
cross, carved in wood, and the shrine of the Virgin Mary.
On the shores of the Bay were scores of fishermen, with
their boats which constitute their only dwellings, thickly
studding its waters. Their wives and children were
M
180
SOUTHERN ITALY,
making fires to cook their evening meal. Their bronzed
complexions, light drapery, and straw hats, give them a
picturesque appearance. They are a singularly hardy
race. Mechanics of various trades have their shops upon
the side-walks ; and cobblers and carpenters work out of
doors. Women here, as well as all through the land, go
spinning along in the streets or standing upon the thresh¬
old. We never understood so fully before, that scrip¬
tural allusion,—" She layeth her hands to the spindle,
and her hands hold the distafiFfor they draw the threads
and wind as they go.
Naples, unlike Rome, is the very poetry of nature ;
and the old Roman philosophers, poets, historians, ora¬
tors, and men of letters, well knew its superior advan¬
tages, for classical reminiscences mark every place.
Not a romantic spot upon its islands or environs, but has
associated with it names familiar to all classical scholars
of the civilized world. The promontories which jut out
into the sea are crowned with ruins which a Virgil,
Cicero, Lucullus, and the Caesars, have tinged with their
undying fame.
The architectural monuments of Rome are wonderful.
The Coliseum fills the mind with the idea of magnitude ;
the impression is that of sublimity and grandeur never
to pass away ; the Pantheon stands as a model of classic
beauty, as perfect in its symmetrical" proportions as when
first molded by the hand of its unrivaled architect ; but
it is the environs of Naples which constitute its chief
charm. The picturesque is seen in its hills and moun¬
tains, which rise like a spacious amphitheater, where
NEAPOLITAN OMNJbUS.
THE PEOPLE. 183
villas and palaces are scattered among luxuriant vines
and orange-groves. For miles around, the city is a
scene of the most fascinating and varied beauty, em¬
bracing the Bay, islands, ruined cities, mountains, and
the volcano.
îta ©rtan ISt^tagna.—We took lodgings at this fine
hotel, fronting the Bay near the park or Villa Realle, the
grand promenade of beauty and fashion. This park is
the only retreat from beggars in the city, none being
allowed to enter within its gates. Fronting this garden
is the Strada Chiaji, the " Hyde Park" of Naples. The
city itself has comparatively few charms independent of
these places and the great street Toledo. The shops
of jewelry, with mosaics, cameos, and coral ornaments,
are unsurpassed. We entered some establishments con¬
taining all varieties of personal ornaments, wrought from
the lava of Mount Vesuvius.
Calais Sbcampaflttati.—A high-sounding name for a
house and street; but "palace" appears to be the name
attached to what we call a fine house. Taking lodgings in
this palace, we were favored with large, airy rooms, well
furnished. The entrance was through a clean paved
court containing plants, an orangery, and several tall
pepper-trees.
live strangely in Naples as well as in
Rome. The lower stories of large and fine buildings are
used as common shops and stables.
The lower class of people are very fond of riding and
appear to have no mercy for their animals. We counted
in an awkward two-wheeled carriage, nineteen persons at
184
SOUTHERN ITALY.
a time ; and a priest is often found sitting among them.
Their roads are remarkably fine, or it would be impossi¬
ble to draw with so many. But the poor donkeys ! alas
for them ! We have seen them so buried in their loads
of little water-barrels, that nothing but their beads and
feet were visible.
TJrSUbíUÉí.—With a party of six we left the city of
Naples for a drive to the mountain, to view that grand
phenomenon of nature, a volcano. We ascended by an
excellent lava-paved road, enjoying a fine prospect of
the Bay and city of Naples, and the country below.
We stopped a while at the Hermitage, a chapel for devo¬
tees, as well as a place kept by the monks for rest and
refreshment. Here we found guides and mules in wait¬
ing ; but our party preferred walking. Taking each a
guide, we passed through a valley of lava which is sup¬
posed to have been the crater in the days of Pompey,
now filled with a hard bed of deposit, without a vestige
of vegetation. On one side, a bold ledge of rocks of the
same materials, rose to a vast height, extending like a
wall of defense a considerable distance around Vesuvjus.
We passed between them, along a narrow, rough path¬
way, composed of cinders thrown down the mountain¬
side, where the streams of lava were still seen. This
walk afforded us a more perfect view of the surrounding
scenes. Above us, was the lofty summit of Vesuvius;
below, the beautiful Bay of Naples studded with islands,
stretching out into the sea, with its placid waters scarcely
rufläed by a breeze.
The day was delightful ; and the surface of the Bay ap-
VESUVIUS.
187
peared like a mirror reflecting the glorious sunset, which
flashed over the bosom of the deep, making a pathway of
light as its broad disk sank behind the dark blue wave.
This view alone was enough to compensate us for our
efforts. The deep blue sky above, and the after-glow of
ca-imson and gold blending with violet around the whole
horizon, reaching far up into the arch of heaven, was ex¬
ceedingly beautiful ; and although the gray mist had en¬
veloped the valleys, partially obscuring all objects, yet
the soft, purple tints of subdued light, peculiar to this
climate, harmonized with the magnificent scene and gave
an additional charm.
We had not designed ascending the mountain in the
night, but had been detained on our way longer than we
anticipated. The ascent looked so dark and formidable,
and the mountain rose before us so wild and terrific with
its fiery brow, that some of our party hesitated and pro¬
posed to return; but the majority prevailed, and with
our guides and military escort, we started again. The
volcano was now throwing out fire and smoke, and the
burning lava was running down its sides. At the base
of the last summit, we found an additional number of
wild Italians, ready to carry us in chairs upon their
shoulders, up the almost precipitous and rugged pathway.
Two ladies beside myself, and one gentleman whose
strength had failed him, were thus seated. Four strong,
swarthy-looking Italians, in their wild and picturesque
costume, were allotted to each chair, sustaining it by
long poles upon their shoulders, and when moving up the
hills presented a grotesque, not to say ludicrous, appear-
36
188
SOUTHERN ITALY.
anee. We had twenty-five of these banditti-looking men
in our train. They sometimes stopped for breath and
to change hands. But they were accustomed to the busi¬
ness, and knew every track and turn of the path, and
bore us along with comparative facility. Our Irish friend,
having lost his way upon his pedestrian trip, was plunged
into the scoria up to his chin, from which he found it
difficult to extricate himself ; but he at last reached the
summit, quite exhausted. As we ascended the mountain,
the flames grew brighter and brighter, while the columns
of smoke rose like an amber cloud, floating in graceful
curves around the lofty brow, wreathing it with a radi¬
ance of unearthly beauty. Between the volumes, the
clear blue sky was seen, and the crescent moon, which
brightly and
"Shadowy, set off the face of things.
The heavens, in relief of this scene of transcendent
brightness, were so clear that the eye seemed to pierce
their inner depths, giving the smoke and flames some¬
thing of the glowing light of Raphael's Transfiguration
on the mount. Being landed in safety near the foot of
the cone, while seated for a moment upon a rock of lava,
we had the fortune to witness a scene of such splendor
and earthly glory as never met our eyes before. Vesu¬
vius was in active eruption, throwing up its flames like a
vast furnace.
The late eruptions had thrown up two cones,—one of
them two hundred feet high, the other much less,
filling up the old crater, and forming two new ones.
VESUVIUS.
189
And instead, therefore, of standing upon the edge of
the crater, and looking down into the depths, we
looked up and saw from the top of the most lofty cone
tremendous volumes of lava, like sheets of fire, thrown
up fifteen hundred feet, and returning in showers of
rockets, as if the whole planetary system had gathered
here to pave this magnificent cone with .stars, sparkling
in their own radiance. Their light did not go out until
another shower followed, thus keeping a continuous blaze
of dazzling light, upon a ground of cinders black as
ebony, rendering the brightness of the falling lava more
brilliant. These blazing cinders were thrown at a great
distance, illuminating the whole heavens. The smaller
cone kept up ceaseless action, sending forth volumes of
smoke and lava, though not as forcibly; the whole con¬
cave was glowing with light too grand for conception or
expression. It was the majesty of God's own works, the
display of his mighty power.
The atmosphere on this elevated spot, was quite like
winter ; but this great volcanic furnace kept us comfortably
warm, and the rocks of lava upon which we stood, being
heated, warmed our feet. Streams of sulphur, whose
disagreeable odors we inhaled at each breath, had so
whitened the rocks upon the mountain-side, over which
they had poured, that they were visible in the darkness.
It was with reluctance we left this place of solitary
grandeur: we could have remained all night to contem¬
plate its magnificent displays.
We found the descent as singular as the ascent ; it
being down a steep bed of sand lying upon a solid lava
190
SOUTHERN ITALY.
rock, and, though ankle deep, it would give way, sliding
us down several feet at a time. The loose stones which
we set in motion came rolling after us, fastening our
clothes in the sand, so that we found it difficult to extri¬
cate ourselves without the help of our guides.
Reaching the Hermitage late in the evening, we found
a cup of coffee quite refreshing after such an exertion.
Seated again in our carriage, we drove back to Naples,
grateful for a privilege which had enriched our minds
with a scene which it is the fortune of few ever to witness.
We found people living without fear in the recesses of
these mountains, on little green spots of table-lands
directly under the crater. The peasants were digging
up the soil with much care, alongside of the lava which
served as a wall of protection. Large flocks of goats
were browsing upon the stunted shrubs which grew upon
the thin soil. They make terraces among the rocks,
as if land was so scarce and population so dense, that
they could not get a spot to strike a tent.
ölapti.—The island of Capri is deeply interesting,
both from its local position and its historical associations,
being the favorite retreat of the Emperor Augustus, who
adorned it with palaces, aqueducts, and baths, and spent
some days there previous to his death. It was also the
resort of Tiberius, who erected twelve palaces upon its
most lovely and elevated positions, as well as committed
there some of his most atrocious deeds. We took the
steamer at Naples, passing on our way an American
frigate lying in the Bay. As we passed along, we noticed
the promontory of Persepolis, the interesting islands
CAPRI.
191
of Nisita, Procida, and the loftier Ischia, which Au¬
gustus gave in exchange for Capri, a massive ledge of
rocks rising out of the sea in wild and picturesque
grandeur, with only two places of access. We landed,
after two hours' sail, at the little village of Capri, com¬
posed of fishermen's huts clustering along the sloping
hill-side, beneath the towering cliffs which shoot up into
the air like the pinnacles of a temple. Following a
winding path of stone steps, difiBcult and wearisome of
ascent, with high walls on each side, we came to an ele¬
vated settlement with a large, comfortable hotel, kept by
an Englishwoman. Here we were met by a troop of
women with donkeys, ready to convey us to any accessi¬
ble place to which we wished to go. Our principal
object was to reach the summit called Leo Capo, to see
the ruins of the palace of Tiberius, and the magnificent
Pharos. We all mounted our little animals, and, with the
acquisition of two accomplished English ladies, wound
our way up the steep, rocky heights. Our drivers under¬
stood the characters and capacities of our donkeys, and
accordingly treated them with many stripes and blows ;
crying out in a strange language, which the animals
seemed to understand. We found the mountain-air most
delightful and invigorating. The soft and balmy influ¬
ence of spring, animated and enlivened our spirits, and
gave a charm to all surrounding objects. Every strip of
ground we saw, in climbing these hills, even little patches
not more than three or four feet wide among the terraced
rocks, were cultivated. The cactus, which bears a fruit
called the Indian fig, of which the natives are very fond,
16®
192
SOUTHERN ITALY.
grows in great abundance among the rocks and upon the
road-side, forming a perfect hedge. It is cultivated
with ease, and great quantities are seen in the markets
of Naples.
Our circuitous route up the hills, afforded us a most
beautiful panoramic view of the island below, with its
pyramidal formations, its rocky eminences, and its scat¬
tered ruins of temples. One cone-shaped rock was ter¬
raced almost to the top, and planted with vines among
heaps of ruins still visible. The scattered fragments
around this vast amphitheater of hills, show how exten¬
sive were these noble structures.
We reached the summit, where they have located the
palace built by Augustus, called the Villa Jovis, in which
Tiberius hid himself several months, after suppressing
the conspiracy of Sejanus. The ruin is now called Pa¬
lazzo Tiberio. In the foundations of this edifice, are
massive walls, broken arches, and passages leading to
subterraneous rooms. The winding steps cut in solid
rock, led us up to other apartments where we saw a large
cistern with baths attached, almost entire.
Above these steps is a passage leading to the brow of
the hill, with high, massive walls, and a mosaic pavement
still unbroken, showing its original elegance. The courts
and floors of the different rooms, are still partially co¬
vered with mosaics. From these ruins we looked out
upon one of the grandest and most beautiful prospects
upon which the eye can rest. Their historical associa¬
tions also gave attraction to every object on which we
gazed. The lovely Bay encircling us is studded with
ROCK OF TIBERIUS.
CAPRI.
195
islands. Mount Vesuvius in the distance with its pillar
of fire ; the promontory of Torrento in close proximity ;
the towering walls of Monte Salerno, which rise on the
west side of the island, eighteen hundred feet above the
level of the sea, crowned with the ruins of the Temple of
the Sun ; and scattered fragments of temples and palaces
on every peak, presented a view alone to be found in
Italy. From this spot we were conducted to II Salto,
or the Leap, from which the Emperor Tiberius forced
the victims of his cruelty into the sea, seven hundred
feet below, where the dashing wave soon silenced their
death-shriek, and shrouded their mangled forms. To
look down from this rocky height, is fearful indeed; but
associated with such deeds of cruelty, it was truly awful.
Wild flowers now fasten their roots in its crevices, and
bloom undisturbed in their peaceful abode. The daffodil
has found a home within its sunny nooks, and wreathes
with wild and native beauty its rugged brow.
A monk of the order of Hermits, living among these
ruins, kindly offered us some flowers which grew upon the
overhanging cliffs. He was a pleasant old man, social,
and fond of society, and had none of the marks of aus¬
terity about him, much to the regret of the brotherhood.
The Pharos was built upon this same range of rocks
which sink precipitously into the sea, with bold "iind
projecting fronts of great magnitude. We reached its
ruins by winding steps, and enjoyed from its height an¬
other view of unrivaled grandeur.
We did not visit the two grottos, as we designed, the
swell of the sea being too great to venture into them.
196
SOUTHERN ITALY.
The entrance to one of them, is through a small arch,
which the waves soon fill up when the wind is high. In
a clear, calm day, it is said to be very beautiful; the
water, walls, and roof assuming a submarine blue of the
most delicate tint, seemingly increasing in brilliancy the
longer one stays. A person swimming in the water is
also said to acquire a silvery hue. We saw a shade of
this blue tint on entering the boat, near the island.
Grotto Verde, or the Green Grotto, produces the same
efiect in dazzling green, while the rocks below appear
like polished brass.
dlFcStibal.—Next morning we were awakened by the
roar of cannon, announcing the great festival of the Im¬
maculate Conception,—one of the dogmas of the Church.
The troops were to be reviewed by the king, and the ser¬
vice of high mass said in the cathedral. The booming
of guns was heard occasionally throughout the day, but
in the evening it was incessant.
datijebral.—The church edifices do not compare
with those of Rome. The cathedral is a rich, massive
structure built upon the site of the temple of Neptune and
Apollo, and adorned with numerous columns taken from
their ruins. It has some rare specimens of art, among
which are a baptismal font and an antique vase of
Egyptian basalt resting upon a pedestal of porphyry,
sculptured with bacchanalian emblems in bas-relief, better
fitted for a heathen temple than a place of Christian wor¬
ship. The Gothic canopy of the cardinals, wrought in
marble, with sculptured wreaths entwined around the sup¬
porting columns, is said to be unequaled in the world in
B EOG
S, NAPLES,
MENDICANTS.
199
delicacy of taste and beauty of ornament. But the
chapel of St. Januarius is more distinguished in the rich¬
ness of its gilding, than all the works of art which adorn
the temple. Behind its altar, are kept the two vials
containing some of the blood of this saint. The great
fête days of the liquefaction which takes place twice a
year, are the most celebrated in the kingdom. The
ornaments of this chapel surpass all others in the church,
and its statues appear to be of gold and silver. We
were not allowed to enter this sanctuary, but only to look
through its gilded door of lattice-work.
The most chaste and beautiful cburch we have seen, is
one in imitation of the Pantheon at Bome. It has few
ornaments, yet is so large that it appears to be of no use
save on some great occasion. The chapels on its sides,
contain seats enough for high mass. There is no Pro¬
testant church in Naples; but an Episcopal clergyman
performs service in the house of the English Legation.
With the consent of our landlord, we had service, one
Sabbath, at the house in which we resided, conducted by
the Rev. Mr. P., of New York. Having gathered a few
English and Americans, he read a chapter, made a few
remarks, and offered prayer, diffusing quite a home-like
feeling in a strange land.
JHenbicattiS.—They are the locusts of Naples,—feed¬
ing upon strangers. It is a profession they are taught
from infancy. We have seen little children astride the
necks of young girls, borne along in their rags, beautiful
as cherubs, with waving tresses, black, lustrous eyes, and
long silken eye-lashes, holding out their little hands and
200
SOUTHERN ITALY.
crying for Macaroni, in the most silvery tones of sup¬
plication.
They assume all shapes,—of the lame, the halt, the
blind,—to assail strangers with the cry, "Mi moro di
fame ! Mi moro di fame !" Me die with hunger I Me die
with hunger I
Naples, beautiful in situation, with every variety of
landscape to charm the eye, rich in productions, mild in cli¬
mate, and with all that can be desired on earth for a para¬
dise of loveliness, is poor, miserable, and wretched ! The
government is like an incubus, paralyzing in its influence,
and oppressive in its character. Happy would it be for its
inhabitants, if the scepter was wrested from the hands of its
king, and given to some individual, whose highest interests
might be in the welfare of his people. Then it might
rise ; its agricultural resources might become developed,
and its commerce revive again. Italy, with all its ex¬
ternal beauties, is indebted for its present attractions to
the Past. The proud monuments of Rome and the flne
arts associated with its past history, give it supremacy
over all other places on the continent. And even now,
in that respect, Rome is still the mistress of the world.
ilflusro löorhtano.—The choicest and rarest speci¬
mens taken from the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum,
are found in the Museum of Naples. Days and weeks
could be spent in examining this collection of the relics
of past ages.
One of the numerous galleries is filled with the papyrus
manuscripts taken from Pompeii ; and, although unrolled,
they are dark and almost illegible.
POMPEII AND HERCULANEUM.
201
The room for bronzes is filled with all kinds of house¬
hold furniture, ornamental and useful.
The room for gems exhibits every variety of costly
ornament worn by the aristocracy of other days : massive
chains, ear-rings, finger-rings, bracelets, and jewels of
every size and value.
Those for wares and glass, contain ingenious specimens
of curious workmanship. We observed in the room of
statuary, the Farnese Group, a work of extraordinary
beauty. No one should leave Naples without spending
a day in this museum.
^onipett anh l^twulaneum.—We spent two days in
viewing the ruins of these unfortunate cities. Our first
trip was a drive through the villages of Portici, Resina,
and Torre del Greco, where we saw large establishments
for manufacturing maccaroni, that most desirable food
of an Italian. Quantities of it were spread out upon
boards along the sidewalks to dry. The streets of these
villages were swarming with inhabitants ; and beggars, in
groups, followed our carriage for bueno mano. We passed
through Torre dell Anunziata, and from thence to Pom¬
peii, entering it by the street of tombs. We were struck
at once with the remarkable state of preservation, which
the monuments of this city present in contrast with
those of old Rome. They have crumbled under the
vibrations of heat and cold, sunshine and storm ; been
defaced by ceaseless wars, and despoiled by the rapacity
of nations; while these of Pompeii, in their dry Vesuvius
bed, have slept in their virgin beauty.
We saw a most delicately sculptured ship, figurative
202
SOUTHERN ITALY.
of the voyage of life, yet similar in its form to those now
seen in the Bay of Naples.
The tombs of Mammia and Tyche were exceedingly
beautiful, and form one of the most interesting features
of the city. This street, though narrow, is clean, and
attracts the attention of all thoughtful travelers. The
sculptured urns are unrivaled in delicacy and beauty.
The city is so quiet and still, that it impresses the mind
as a city of the dead whose sepulchral notes come up
from the Past with the dying accents of a funeral dirge.
It appeared like beauty in a shroud, still expressive of
symmetry and grace.
We passed through the suburban villa of Diomedes,
viewing its spacious courts and colonnades, its halls, and
wine-cellars, where the jars still stand against the wall, as
when first fastened there by the lava.
The beauty and elegance of the place, its gardens, walks,
and surrounding scenery, give evidence of its former
princely splendor. We wandered leisurely through seve¬
ral streets, and along the walls of this ancient city
where the great and learned once trod, until the rays of
the setting sun tinged its monuments with departing
glory, and left us to finish our view another day.
SftOhÎJ Visit to lîompcii.—We took our second trip
to Pompeii, by the railway along the coast. The speed
of the train was so slow, that we had a fine opportunity
to enjoy the prospect of sea and country. A cloud of rain
and hail sweeping over the Bay, touched its waters with the
magic wand of beauty, transferring to its bosom all the
dyes of heaven, which melted away in the distance like
BATHS.
203
the soft shadows of the twilight hours. By the time we
arrived at Pompeii, the cloud had withdrawn to the sum¬
mit of Vesuvius, to veil for a while its fire and smoke, and
the sun was shining brightly upon the streets of this soli¬
tary city. We saw this day the ruins of all the struc¬
tures of elegance, now exhumed, which so distinguished
this people two thousand years ago. Their palaces, tem¬
ples, fountains, baths, theaters, schools, academies of arts,
forum, and halls of justice, formed an ensemble of all
that was beautiful to the eye of taste. A sign still
remains over a studio, with unfinished models of marble
lying upon tbe floor, as the artist left them. The bar¬
ber's shop and dressing-room, the baker's oven, corn
mills, vessels for oil and wine, are standing as the Pom-
peiians left them. Most of their domestic utensils, as
well as their choice works of art, have been removed to
the Museo Borbiana of Naples.
The frescoes and arabesque paintings upon the walls,
though faded, are still distinctly seen. Among those in
the palace of Augustus, are two of a classical character:
" Theseus receiving a s\\'ord from his mother to go in
search of his father," and " the meeting of Penelope and
Ulysses." The rich and beautiful mosaic pavements
of this room are of the finest and most delicately colored
marble, and, in several apartments, as fresh as when first
made. The fountains are equally tasteful ; some of
mosaic, and surrounded with Avreaths and shells.
Í3atl)0. —The public and private baths are adorned
with sculptures and paintings indicative of a most refined
and cultivated taste. The palace of the Roman consul,
N 17
204
SOUTHERN ITALY.
Panza, is said to be the finest; but it is difficult to select
the gems of beauty in a place filled with such specimens
of art.
íEcmplfS.— The august temple of Jupiter stands
near the public forum. Its columns, which were thirty
feet in height, though now broken, still show the
beauty and magnitude of the building. The marble
pavement is surrounded by a border of black and white
mosaic. In a temple excavated a few days before our
arrival, we saw some beautiful statuettes illustrative of
heathen mythology. There were twelve figures,—among
which we noticed a Roman goose, a recumbent fawn, and
an Apollo,—set in the form of a half-circle, on a mosaic
floor, in the center of which was a little niche containing
the figure of a heathen divinity. Every thing was
characterized by a combination for the ornamental and
useful.
The temple of Mercury, with its altar of sacrifice and
mutilated figures, showed literally the fulfillment of that
law, "Thou shalt have no other gods beside me." Their
household gods were many, and seen everywhere,—upon
the walls of their palaces, private halls, boudoirs, dormi¬
tories, and kitchens.
In the temple of Venus, the beautiful marble pedestals
upon which their deities were worshiped, are still stand¬
ing. Her sacred altar was more elevated than those
which surrounded it. The platform is a rude mass of
stones, dismantled of its polished marble ornaments; but
her image is no longer there to dazzle the eye or he-
wilder the senses with its charms. The Triangular
TEMPLES.
205
Forum was raised upon a slope, open to the sea, with a
beautiful prospect in full view. The schoolroom remains,
having an elevated desk and seat of marble, reached by
six or seven steps, showing, by its conspicuous position,
its object and use.
The temple of Fortune is a beautiful building, having
its altar upon an elevation reached by eleven steps,
three in the first fiight and eight in the second, the
whole protected by an iron railing. The portico has
four columns in front and two at the sides. "At the
end of the building is a semicircular niche, containing a
richly finished temple, where the statue of the goddess
was placed. A female figure, the size of life, was found
within the celia, clothed in a toga and a tunic which fell
to her feet."
The theaters were easily distinguished by their rows
of seats still remaining. They were small buildings, and
of unequal size. The temples of Hercules, Isis, .®scu-
lapius, and two spacious porticos inclosing open areas,
are easily recognized. We entered the house of Sallust,
the historian, with peculiar interest, and were gratified
to find its walls—though open to the sky, like all the
city—still firm and solid as when he left them. The
dormitories in every building through which we passed
were peculiar: though paved with beautiful mosaics of the
richest and most costly marble, and adorned with paint¬
ings in fresco, yet they had no light except from the
door, all of which seemed to open into a paved court.
The house of Julius Polybius was not only an interesting
relic, but a model of taste and beauty.
20G
SOUTHERN ITALY.
In tlie narrow streets were to be seen the impression
worn by the carriage-wheels, the stepping-stones to cross
the streets when it rained, and the holes in the curb¬
stones for fastening horses. The hill which covers the
remainder of this ruined city is a cultivated garden,
where the olive, orange, vine, and fig fiourish. At the
extremity of this garden is the spacious amphitheater,
rather oval in form, with seats rising one above another.
We descended through a solid stone archway to the open
area, where we had a full view of its magnitude and
beauty. " The expense of this mighty structure is said
to have been sufiicient to build a city. There were
nine thousand wild beasts destroyed in the games at its
dedication." " When the hunting was over, the arena
was filled with water for a sea-fight : it was twelve or
fifteen feet below the lowest range of seats, for the
security of the people." We saw the dens where the
wild beasts were kept for combat with the gladiators.
On the occasions of these shows, when, the earth became
saturated with blood, it was rolled over with stones, to
render it hard like a pavement. This amphitheater
could seat twenty thousand people upon the steps to
witness these horrible scenes. And so refined were
they in luxury of taste, " that perfumed liquors were
conveyed to different parts of the buildings, and
scattered in showers over the audience." Sometimes
the statues of beautiful sculpture which adorned its
walls, sent forth perfumes through minute pores with
which they were pierced. Lucan alludes to this in a
poem :—
HERCULANEUM, 207
"As when mighty Rome's spectators meet,
In the full theater's capacious seat,
At once, by secret pipes and channels fed.
Rich tinctures gush from every antique head.
At once ten thousand saffron currents flow.
And rain their odors on the crowd below."
?^0tCUlattfUtn,—The doubtful location of this place
was determined, in 1713, by some laborers digging a
well. The lava which filled this underground city is
quite unlike the ashes of Pompeii ; for it has become as
hard as adamant ; and hence but a small portion of the
ruins have been excavated. With the light of lamps we
descended seventy feet under ground to the spacious
theater, whose different departments exhibit the taste of
these people for amusements. Over our heads was the
figure of a mask imprinted in the lava. A passage, leading
down several steps, opened into gardens and palaces simi¬
lar in their arrangements to those of Pompeii. An ara¬
besque painting upon the walls of a dormitory, represents
a landscape with a beggar in the foreground like those of
the present day ; so that beggary seems to be an institution
of long standing. In the foreground, is a picture of a
lady with a parasol of modern shape. We stood upon a
wall several feet high, which once overlooked the sea,
where vessels used to anchor. Solid lava has filled this
harbor, and driven the waters back a considerable dis¬
tance. We saw a large stone, well-like prison, where
they punished their slaves. The floors of all their
rooms were paved with mosaic, like those of Pompeii ;
and the architectural taste of the buildings was of the
same order. It would require more energy than the
K*
208
SOUTHERN ITALY.
Italians possess now, ever to throw open the gates of this
buried city any farther than they have done, so solid are
the masses of lava which cover it.
IjJuiCOlt.—The environs of Naples, for twenty miles,
present one continuous scene of romantic beauty un-
] ¡valed in the world. Orange and olive groves, with
every variety of shade-trees, add much to the beauty of
the flÄwer-gardens, villas, and palaces scattered among
them. Every mountain, hill, valley, and lake, with all
their inspiration, is associated with the history, poetry, and
romance of classic writers. Here, also, is Puteoli, where
St. Paul landed on his way, a prisoner, to Rome. In
all probability, we stood upon the same bank where he
stood, and looked down into the same transparent waters.
The village is mean and dirty, and its inhabitants indo¬
lent and degraded. A figure of the Virgin Mary, and
some other statues, stood in the market-place, among
vegetables and rubbish scattered around.
ISocorowana.—In our drive to ancient Posilippo, we
visited the romantic villa of the Duke Rocoromana,
situated upon the hill-side, among rocks of tufa whose
bold and rugged cliffs dip in the sea. The noble
duke, as well as the ancient Roman, knew well how to
avail himself of its superior advantages for a display of
romantic beauty.
Passing through his flower-garden, we descended several
steps cut in the rock to another one, with conservatories,
built in the form of temples, for tropical plants, birds, and
animals. Among the rare specimens of birds, the cocka¬
too with white feathers, yellow down, and a beautiful
ROCOROMANA.
209
crown of gold upon its head; a gold and silver pheasant,
from India ; the flamingo, from South America ; and a
white turkey from the East, were the most interesting. The
assortment of animals was limited ; but several stufied skins
of a singular kind were tastefully arranged in the museum.
Below this department was a large, arched room, cut out
of the rock, fitted in romantic style, with lamps of varie¬
gated colors, statuary, and other ornaments. A p.assage
from this leads to an old Roman bath of Venus, fn the
center of which still stands her mutilated figure. Other
broken fragments of sculpture were seen in the water.
Ascending a winding stairway among the rocks, we
reached a little peninsula jutting out into the bay, upon
which was erected a pagoda, inclosed by an iron railing,
and having a walk to look out upon the sea. Within, it
was furnished with seats and books. Near the temple
arose a shaft, with an iron staircase winding to the top,
so light and delicate that it looked like a web of net¬
work designed for ornament rather than use. A fairy
bridge of the same material, led to the top of the pagoda
which was used as an observatory, having a fine view
of the sea. Passing down to the shore, we were shown
the aquaria. Our guide had taken a basket of sardines
to feed the fish, of which the most remarkable was the
fiying-fish. They were as large as good-sized trout,
having a broad, fiat head, a body of scarlet, crimson,
green, and gold ; and wings, or fins, similar to those of a
large-sized butterfly, circular in shape, and edged with a
rim of purple and gold. When they rose near the sur¬
face to seize their food, they glistened with great bril-
210
SOUTHERN ITALY.
liancy. There were several ponds, with terrapins and
difierent kinds of aquatic animals kept separately. We
regretted leaving this beautiful place.
^OSilippO.—This ancient city is a mass of ruins over¬
grown with weeds and wild flowers. They wreath the
rocks and fragments of its once beautiful villas and tem¬
ples, throwing a charm over the wildness of the scenes.
We stood upon the ruins of a villa,—said to be that
of Virgil,—commanding a most lovely prospect of the
bay, the island of Capri, the coast and its range of
mountains, and Vesuvius. Virgil was thus surrounded
on every side with objects of poetic inspiration. No
place could have been chosen more perfectly suited to
his genius. It is said that he here composed his Eclogues
and Georgics.
Utlla of ^OlliO,— Not far from the villa of Virgil
was that of his friend, Vedius Pollio. The grounds are
strewed with fragments of sculptured cornices, fluted
columns of temples, and broken friezes, some of which
had been placed together for observation in a building
for that purpose. Every pathway among the hills and
valleys reveals something to tell of its former grandeur.
We entered under the archways of the massive walls of
his flsh-pond, where, it is said, he fed the fishes upon
the flesh of his slaves. The bottom was covered with
mud ; but its arches and walls are still strong, defying
the hand of Time. Climbing over some rocks and ruined
walls, we reached the theater whose rows of seats are
distinctly visible. A statue of a Nereid—a most ex¬
quisite piece of sculpture—rising from a shell was found
VILLA OP POLLIO—A GROTTO.
211
among these ruins, and deposited in the Museo Borbiano
of Naples.
This villa was built in the time of Augustus, among
the hills of the beautiful mountain Pausilypus, which de¬
rived its name from his villa, signifying " about to make
care cease." Its entire surface was once covered with
villas embowered in groves of olive, orange, and cypress,
and gardens of Oriental beauty. There were dells over¬
shadowed with pines, and streams gushing from the hill-
slopes. Ascending the steps, we saw small fragments of
the beautiful marbles which once adorned the palace. At
the age of eighty, he withdrew from public life to this
"Seat of elegance and poetic ease,"
this enchanting spot, so suited to his genius and taste.
He was a lover of literature as well as the fine arts, and
patronized men of genius. Himself a scholar, he shone
in the most elevated and polite branches of literature,
eloquence, poetry, and history. He founded the first
public library at Rome, and enjoyed there the society of
the master-spirits of the age. In his youth, his wit and
conversational talents gave him a conspicuous position
among the learned. His galleries were adorned with the
finest collections of statues, from the hands of Praxiteles
and others ; and his immense wealth was made to con¬
tribute to the enjoyment of others as well as himself, by
adding to the beauty of the natural scenery around him.
But it has aU passed away, and the wreck of its temples
and palaces only remain.
^ ©itoito.—Winding our way through a wild confusion
212
SOUTHERN ITALY.
of rocks, and a wilderness of weeds and ruins, we entered
a grotto which communicates with the great road to
Naples. We were conducted through it by a guide with
lamps. It has been lately excavated by the King of
Naples, and inscriptions found upon its walls, bear the
date of the fifth century, when it was restored by Hono-
rius. This tunnel passes through a tufa rock, about a half
a mile in length ; but it is not now used as a public road.
As we left the grotto, on the other side of the mountain,
we took our carriage at the entrance on the public road,
driving through the most beautiful scenery, diversified by
hills, valleys, and vineyards, along the entire route back
to Naples.
®rotiO of ^OSiltppo.—We passed through the Grotto
of Posilippo, the great thoroughfare leading from Naples
to Pozzuoli. It is a dismal-looking place, of nearly a
mile in length, lighted in the middle only by a few lamps.
There are some openings near its extremities, to admit
light. The atmosphere, as we passed through, was con¬
fined and very disagreeable, from the hundreds of people
and goats passing and repassing every day to supply the
inhabitants with milk.
Cotnh of 1711011.—At the entrance of this grotto, on
the Naples side, upon the very brow of a bold pre¬
cipice, is the tomb of Virgil. The pathway to the
tomb is winding and difficult, leading along sloping vine¬
yards up and down among rocks and bushes. The cliff
hallowed by his tomb, is a fitting place for the repose
of the immortal poet. It is a plain arched chamber,
fifteen feet square, cut in tufa rock and lighted by open
CÜM^.
213
arched windows. Its walls, overshadowed by matted
vines and trees, contain small niches for urns in which
to place the ashes of the dead, like the Columha-
rias at Rome. The monument, simple as the mountain
itself, stands as if it were a part of it, and were to.
last as long, unless indeed it is clipped away for me¬
mentos.
(Kutnœ.—The ruins of this ancient city are so utterly
destroyed that few relics, except its walls, remain. The
arched gateway through which we passed, a fine entrance
to the once flourishing city, is one of the most ancient
on record in Italy, and is associated with the names of
Tarquin and Hannibal.
Cumae was founded, as is stated by the chronology of
Eusebius, 1050 B.c., and it is said by Strabo to be one
of the most ancient cities of all the Grecian colonies which
settled in Italy or Sicily.
The walls of the gate are still massive and firm on its
sides, but at the top time has made foot-prints, planting
there trees of many years' growth ; but it stands as a
venerable relic of antiquity. We wound our way among
fragments of rocks and bushes, up to the site of the cita¬
del, which overlooks the bay, and once formed a part of
Peter Pindar's
" Sea-girt clifiFs."
Scarcely a habitation or a human being was seen along
the shores. Not even a fisherman's boat dotted the bay,
where the powerful fleet led by Hannibal to attack the
city, in the Second Punic War, was met and defeated by
Tiberius Gracchus. It was at this place that Tarquin in
214
SOUTHERN ITALY.
his exile met the celebrated Cumaean Sibyl, and purchased
the three books so long preserved and venerated by the
Romans. Here he also died, five hundred and nine years
before Christ. We wandered among the ruins, picked up
.a few pieces of mosaic imbedded in the earth, and, on
our return, saw remnants of Roman walls, easily distin¬
guished from all others by the peculiarity of their bricks
and cement. The earth has so accumulated over the ruins
of these ancient cities, that wherever the rains have
washed away the banks, marble pavements are seen im¬
bedded in the soil.
ILafee EbeittUS.—We passed this beautiful sheet of
water, and the Lucrinus, so famous in history. Here
" Agrippa employed twenty thousand slaves to connect
them with the sea, and thus form a harbor for exercising
and training a body of seamen previous to the contest
with Sextus Pompeius. Here, in the presence of Augus¬
tus, he also gave a representation of the battle of Actium,
to show the superior advantages of his harbor." Though
volcanic eruptions have now filled up part of the Lucrinus,
yet its placid waters are still eloquent with the history
of the past. The caves of the far-famed Cumaean Sibyl,
are situated in the grotto which once led from Lake
Avernus to Lucrinus. Cicero had a villa upon these
shores, of which fragments still remain. Lake Fusori,
once so celebrated for its oysters, upon which the poet
and philosopher feasted, still boasts of this luxury ; for no
sooner had we driven in sight of the lake, than a group
of bronzed Italians came rushing toward our carriage,
with their baskets full and dripping, to offer them for
BAY OF BAIAE.
215
sale. The present king has a castle in the lake, especi¬
ally for the enjoyment of this luxury.
i3ag of üaiaf.—
"Not a cliflF but flings
On the clear wave some image of delight,
Some ruin'd temple, or fallen monument
To muse on."
The whole shore, around which we walked, was strewed
with broken fragments of marble and mosaics, washed
by the waves from the ruins which lined its coast. It was
the watering-place of the aristocracy of Rome, in the
days of its glory. Every little nook and jutting rock is
crowned with ruins of temples and palaces. The lofty
hills which rise from the coast, are perforated with
arches leading to underground rooms, opening into
palaces rising one above another.
The Temple of Mercury, a large circular arched room
with light let in from above, like the Pantheon at Rome,
was excavated in the base of the hill, a damp, chilly place,
and appears to have had baths attached to it. A
group of wild Italians came in and danced the Tarantula
for a few carlino. The Temple of Diana, upon the hill¬
side, was open. The sculptured ornaments of all these
temples, adorn the Museum and Vatican at Rome. Upon
the shore opposite, are the ruins of the Temple of Venus,
overgrown with trees ; and along the same range of hills,
the Baths of Nero, sending forth their hot sulphureous
vapors. Here poets and philosophers, historians and
statesmen, heroes and orators, among these native beau¬
ties, chose their rural seats, to enjoy in retirement the
18
216
SOUTHERN ITALY.
luxuries so easily obtained. Here, too, the proud Roman
matron partook of its charms, and drank the inebriating cup
of pleasure. It was the resort of pride and fashion. Here
the Emperor Hadrian retired for the restoration of his de¬
clining health, died, and was buried at the villa of Cicero,
from whence he was removed to his mausoleum at Rome.
3ri)e iilOllTan iílCífCTboir.—This great cistern, not far
from the beautiful Bay of Baiae, was of such magnitude
as to hold water enough to supply a Beet. It was as¬
cended by a flight of forty stone steps, and its floors were
paved with stone. The Julian Aqueduct, which supplied
it with water, was fifty miles in length. Some of its
conduits are still visible.
Cmple of Siupitcr Sfiapis.—This magnificent
ruin is not surpassed, in the beauty of its design or the
elegance of its structure, by any in Italy. The first
sight was so imposing, that we felt as though entering
the regal palace of an Oriental king. The circular court
was one hundred forty feet long, and one hundred twenty-
two broad ; its vestibule was supported by six pilasters, a
portico of forty-eight columns of marble, beneath which
were thirty-two small chambers. The remains of a stair¬
way give evidence of an upper story. There are channels
in the walls for water, and marble seats supported by
dolphins. Three shafts still stand erect; while many
beautiful columns, sculptured cornices, and capitals, lie
about in confusion. In the middle of the court is a
circular temple, elevated three feet above the floor, and
surrounded by sixteen columns of Egyptian marble.
Between the pedestals were small cylindrical vases, with
SULPHATAREA—CAPIDEMONTE.
217
spiral flutings, supposed to have held the blood of immo¬
lated victims. The temple is said to resemble that of
Alexandria, and from its Greek inscriptions, it is found
that the worship of Egyptian divinities continued until
the second century.
Sulpljatat^a—is an extinct volcano, whose crater is
now filled with the lava of an eruption long ago. The
plain upon which it rests, has numerous boiling springs,
which continually send forth vapors so hot that the hand
can be held in them only for a moment. The rocks are
colored with shades of green, red, and bright yellow.
By striking the center of this crater with a stick or
stone, a hollow sound is emitted ; which shows the
danger of its breaking out again. The inhabitants are
employed in the manufacture of sulphur in great quan¬
tities from these caves. The keeper of this place looked
as though he belonged to those sulphureous regions,
and quite frightened us by his growling visage, as he
closed the gate upon us when we left. His voice was
startling, his clothes were covered with a fine sulphur-
dust, and he cried out most lustily. Bueno Mano ! Bueno
Mano !—never satisfied with his fee.
(ïîapihttnontc.—Upon this mountain is a Monastery
of the Benedictines,—
" Which crowns with her inclosure green,
As with a rural mound, the campaign head
Of a steep wilderness."
At a considerable elevation, upon a ridge of the
mountain, we passed a village of depopulated houses,
extending along one side of the narrow, dirty street.
218
SOUTHERN ITALY.
The people live in true Neapolitan style, in stone houses,
with shops, stalls, and cattle in the lower stories. The
laboring class also live in the same story, to which there
is no admission for light except through the doors, which
are always open in the daytime. Mechanics and trades¬
men work and live in this way, all through Naples. In this
village we hired donkeys for our trip up the mountain.
The road was walled up on one side by the tufa rock, out
of which it is cut, and of which the whole mountain is com¬
posed. A few chestnut-groves and umbrella-shaped pines,
lined our way ; but vegetation was not very dense in these
rocky heights of volcanic origin. Reaching the desired
elevation, we stopped at a telegraphic and military sta¬
tion, while the gentlemen went to visit the convent, as no
female is allowed to enter its walls, or to come near its
vestibule, or to walk upon the grounds of this holy broth¬
erhood. It is situated upon the brow of the mountain,
presenting one of the most beautiful panoramic views of
Naples and the surrounding country. We were allowed
to take guides, and walk around the hills below the gar¬
den, and look upon them from a goodly distance. On
their return, the gentlemen reported having had an in¬
teresting visit to the Monastery of Benedictines. They
are said to be very rich, and to live in seclusion from all
society. They have a church attached to the convent,
very highly ornamented and richly endowed.
The telegraphic wires bring them intelligence from
abroad; so that, though living in solitude, they may learn
what is going on in the great world which they are not
permitted to see.
EARTHQUAKE.
210
The view from the summit is one of peculiar beauty.
The bay, with its purple and crimson flush, emerald and
azure dyes, is as brilliant as when a Virgil or Horace
gazed upon it ; the skies are as clear and transparent ;
the mellow tints of purple light which rest upon the
mountains, and blend so sweetly with the surrounding
scenes, are the same. The eye never wearies looking
upon these sublime and varied scenes.
iEatt^fluake.—On the night of December sixteenth, I
was roused from my sleep by the rocking of the bed. The
second shock was lighter, although the motion was sensibly
felt. The alarm of the citizens was great : they fled from
their houses into the streets, and kept watch all night, for
fear of general destruction ; some slept in their carriages ;
others walked all night in the wide streets, which we
were told were in perfect confusion. But our rooms
were on Strada Santa a Teresa Chiaja, upon the sloping
hill-side, where the shock was not as severe as in the
streets below.
0
18«
CHAPTER XIIL
THE MEDITERRANEAN.
iïlcSStna lies in a crescent form, beneath volcanic
hills which tower up in rough, irregular ridges along the
coast. Tradition says this ancient city was built sixteen
hundred years before the Christian era ; but its present
aspect is quite modern. "An earthquake, in 1783, de¬
stroyed all the buildings except the cathedral, which
escaped the ruin."
Its beautiful harbor was well filled with shipping ; its
streets, lined with large warehouses and fine buildings ;
and its broad, well-paved streets swarmed with people.
The commercial streets abounded with shops supplied
with European goods ; but the merchants have a very
singular mode of display, piling up their wares and goods
upon the pavement in front.
The environs of the city are adorned with gardens of
great beauty. We entered one where the oranges were
of the most delicious flavor, especially the mandarine,—a
small but exceedingly luscious variety. There was an
abundance of flowers in bloom ; but a want of neatness
in the walks and fountains, materially marred the beauty.
The climate is considered one of the most salubrious in
the world. The atmosphere, dry and cloudless, has no
220
THE CATHEDRAL.
221
sharpness of winter. Fruits and nuts of the tropical
and temperate zones were in abundance, in overflowing
markets. The means of subsistence are plentiful ; yet
we met with poverty and wretchedness everywhere.
Beggars, with imploring hands and eyes, were seen at
every corner. The aged appear to be uncared for in the
Italian cities.
ÔTatl^eîital is a Gothic building with heavy,
massive walls, and lofty towers, loaded with ornaments
of the richest kind. Its high altar is adorned with the
most delicately colored marbles and precious stones.
Its gilded canopy is supported by angels, in gilt, and
surrounded by six columns of lapis lazuli, fluted with
gold. There were a great many priests in attendance,
who showed us all its antiquities and relics,— among
which were some early manuscripts in Latin. The
convent, situated upon a rocky eminence overlooking the
harbor and city, is built of stone, upon solid rock,
with walls so massive that they looked as though they
could endure a siege. We descended a long flight of
stone steps to the vestibule of the church attached to the
convent, where we enjoyed a delightful view of the city,
its harbors, and the opposite coast, the ancient Rhegium.
This is the place spoken of in the record of St. Paul. We
were looking upon the same beautiful scenes which the
apostle saw eighteen hundred years ago,—the same rocks,
mountains, and waters which shone like a vision of
beauty upon his sight. These reflections added much to
the enchantment of the scene. The church attached to
this wealthy convent, is one of the most beautiful sped-
222
THE MEDITERRANEAN.
mens of elaborate and rmhly-decorated edifices, of its
size, in the East. Its walls, high and massive as those
of a prison, appeared to be covered with mosaics of the
most precious kind. The windows were barred with
iron grates. We hoped to see the inside; but, although
our friends tried to prevail upon the abbess to admit us,
she was inexorable without a pass from higher authorities,
which we had neglected to procure.
ifSlaUa.—We had flattered ourselves that we might
get a glimpse of Mount Etna as we passed through the
straits ; but it was too dark and cloudy for a prospect in
the night. On entering the harbor of Malta, the island
looked like a huge mass of rocks rising out of the sea,
crowned with battlements. Valetta, the capital, finely
situated upon a bed of elevated, calcareous rock running'
out into the bay, is surrounded by a wall and fortifi¬
cations. The streets, some of which are so steep as to
require steps, are paved and kept remarkably clean. The
houses are all built of stone, some of them three stories
high, with terraced roofs so connected as to form a walk.
The whole island is thickly inhabited ; and every strip
of land is walled in and terraced. Orange and olive
trees are cultivated, and fruits are very abundant. The
Florian gardens, overlooking the sea and surrounded by
arches and paved walks, are very beautiful. The sol¬
diers occupy an inn once belonging to the Knights of
Malta, whose coats of armor adorn the grand palace,
and whose trophies hang along its walls. Upon the
tower of the palace is mounted a curious clock, which was
brought from the island of Rhodes. It has three bells.
HIOH MASS.
223
which are struck with heavy hammers, by three large
bronze figures.
iHíaSS.—We attended high mass in the mag¬
nificent Church of St. John, and observed that the cere¬
monies were similar to those in Rome, except that per¬
taining to the bishop, who had all his robes put on and
taken off by the priests in the presence of the people.
His robes of state and golden miter appeared to be set
with diamonds and precious stones. The music was fine,
but the ceremonies were a perfect pantomime. The
church was gorgeously adorned. On both sides of the
nave were chapels most elaborately ornamented with
paintings and sculpture, dedicated to the knights of that
order, in all the different languages of the countries they
Inhabited. The high altar represented the baptism of
Christ by John, the Baptist.
In the oratory of the Crucifixion, is a painting of
the most impressive character, representing the behead¬
ing of John. The whole department is filled with
beautiful illustrations of different scenes in the order
of their knighthood.
But the chief object of attraction in the church is the
floor, paved with the most delicately colored marbles and
ornamented sepulchral slabs, in mosaic wreaths of inimi¬
table beauty. These cover the tombs of the Knights of
Malta, and are adorned with appropriate epitaphs in
mosaic. We have seen nothing in the world to compare
with this solemn and strikingly beautiful memorial of the
dead. Each slab, a few feet square, has different designs,
of equal beauty. The whole floor is a monumental tomb.
224
THE MEDITERRANEAN.
jFrigatc.—We attended divine service, with
our friends, on board the British frigate Prince Albert,
where Lord Admiral Lyons was present. The crew, with
all their officers in uniform, presented a most interesting
appearance ; the whole number amounted to about a thou¬
sand. The ship was perfectly clean, and its guns bright
and shining as a polished mirror. It was most interest¬
ing to us to hear the service in our own language, and to
unite in worship upon the sea in this far-off world ! The
music was delightful; the pleasing notes of sweet and
clear voices, accompanied by the band, rose upon the air
in strains of pure devotion. The chaplain appeared
interested in his subject, and gave us a sermon suited to
the occasion.
After the service, we were taken through the ship,
which was tastefully adorned. The whole crew had their
tables neatly spread, loaded with the rich gifts of their
Christmas banquet, displayed to the best advantage.
Their honest faces shone with heart-felt pleasure.
This island contains a population more dense than
almost any country of its size, being only twenty miles
in length and ten in breadth. The most of the soil has
been brought from Sicily, and the whole island is ter¬
raced. "It has twenty-two villages, besides its cities."
The people are a mixed race, Arabic and Italians.
The ladies have a peculiar costume, resembling that
worn by the nuns. A black mantilla is thrown over the
head and gathered on one side, having a whalebone in
the straight part, which swells out like a hood.
St. Í3ruI'0 löag.—We had the privilege of visiting
ST. PAUL'S DAY, ISLAND OF MALTA.
st. Paul's bay.
227
this most interesting and memorable locality. A church
stands upon the very spot where, tradition says, the fire
was made, out of which the viper sprang and fastened
upon the hand of St. Paul. We did not enter the little
church; hut walked around the beach, and stood upon
the rocks looking out upon the same sea upon which the
apostle was wrecked, eighteen hundred years ago. We
could well imagine the scene; for the wind was very
high and the waves dashed with great force against the
projecting cliffs. We could scarcely stand ; and it was
with great difficulty that we made our way around the
rocks. We were told, that, in a storm the waves rose
fifteen or twenty feet. The whole coast is an unbroken
ledge of rocks. Two small islands shut in the bay,
making the passage quite narrow "where the two seas
met." It seems as though it would be impossible for a
ship to escape destruction if driven upon this coast in a
storm. No tree or shrub adorns this dreary, desolate-
looking place. The only signs of habitation are the
little churches, in different places among the rocks,
marking some hallowed spot. The gardens and culti¬
vated patches of ground, have walls so high, in many
places, that we could only see their fertility by drawing
near them. But every spot is cultivated; and, although
the soil is made, it produces a great variety of fruits and
vegetables of the finest kind.
There are ancient ruins and catacombs of a very early
period upon the island, thought to have been made by
the Phoenicians.
The inhabitants of Melita profess to point out the site
228
THE MEDITEllRANEAN.
of the governor's house, Publias, who showed such
favor to the apostle. We visited St. Paul's Cathedral,
and the grotto beneath it, where, according to tradition,
he resided during the three months he was on the island.
We saw, by candlelight, in diiferent subterranean rooms,
statues of him with the serpent hanging upon his finger,
which the priest showed us with great veneration. His
statue also stands in the courtyard.
IBcpartUtC.—In the evening, as we went to take ship
for Alexandria, a most amusing scene occurred among
the natives. Each boatman was so anxious to carry our
baggage to the ship, that they fought among themselves,
jumping and hopping upon their knees, howling, and
throwing up their arms, in such pantomimic attitudes of
despair and expostulation, that one might have thought
a great calamity was about to befall the nation. Their
gesticulations were more like those of madmen than any
thing else. We had scarcely left port when a storm
came on, which lasted four days. The steamboat being
very narrow and rolling excessively. New Year was
ushered in to a sea-sick company.
CHAPTER XIV.
EGYPT.
^Icxanbria.— It was Sunday morning, January third,
when we entered the famous harbor of this ancient city.
Large merchant-ships lay at their moorings, adding
grandeur to the first impressions of this place, whose
early history is interwoven with the greatness of its
founder whose name it still bears. These associations
threw a spell of enchantment over the whole scene con¬
nected with the Past ; and imagination was busy in re¬
building the city in its Oriental magnificence,—with its
lofty Pharos and palaces, its Alexandrian Library and
its temples of science, which made it the cradle of
genius and literature. The city burst upon our sight,
at the close of a disagreeable voyage, like a sweet vision
after a troubled dream.
We were soon surrounded by strange boats, and a
strange people, whose language broke upon the ear
in accents boisterous and harsh, and whose turbans and
flowing garments were well suited to their bronzed and
athletic figures. Their scanty garments scarce con¬
cealed the body leaving their tawny limbs exposed to
full view. The porters were as clamorous and furious
in securing our baggage as those we left at Malta, and
19 229
230
EGYPT.
more turbulent, so that the officers of the ship were
obliged to show them deadly weapons to make them
stand aside. After much parleying, we were put into
Turkish boats and landed at the wharf. Every thing
was new and startling, bearing the impress of the Orien¬
tal world. Here we met for the first time, that large,
awkward animal, the camel, with his enormous load.
He is one of the most subdued, patient-looking of beasts,
as well as one of the ugliest. A crowd of human
beings surrounded us upon all sides, of varied colors
and costumes, so novel that we felt the influence of the
Eastern world in all that we saw and heard.
(üítg.—We procured seats in an omnibus, and
were driven through the roughest and muddiest streets
we ever saw in any city ; for it rains in Alexandria, if
not in other parts of Egypt. The Crescent, the emblem
of the Mohammedan religion, was all along the streets
and over the shops, admonishing us that we were in the
land of another people and another religion. We pro¬
cured quite agreeable lodgings at an English hotel in the
central part of the city. This city has a European look,
and contains no antiquities of great interest except
Cleopatra's Needles and Pompey's Pillar. A great fes¬
tival occurring in the Greek Church, soon after our
arrival, gave us an opportunity of seeing a multitude of
people in their peculiar costumes.
Along the walks the lofty palm-tree rose in Oriental
grandeur, sending out its graceful feathery leaf, beneath
which the ripe date bent in rich luxuriance. Dates
were placed upon our table for dessert every day, both
FUNERALS.
231
the fresh and the dried, and oranges of the finest
flavor.
(iltopatca'S NeehleS.—Our party made an excursion
upon donkeys to Cleopatra's Needles and Pompey's
Pillar. The obelisk of Cleopatra which is standing, did
not look as high as it really is, being upon low ground.
Another lies near, buried in the earth.
^Oltipcg'S ^^illar.—Passing through the outer gate of
the city, and through a long avenue of cypress-trees,
we came to the site of Pompey's Pillar, which stands
upon elevated ground, overlooking the sea and com¬
manding a charming prospect of its waters and the coast
around. This ancient and elegant column is of red
granite, highly polished, and mounted with beautiful
capitals. Plain and simple yet highly finished, it stands,
scarcely touched by the destroying hand of time.
—On one side is a large Turkish cemetery
full of whitewashed tombs, without the vestige of a tree
to break the blistering heat of the sun, the most dreary
in prospect of any thing of the kind we ever saw ; on
the other side, is an Arab village, which resembled the
houses of beavers more than of men, being eight or ten
feet high and built of mud baked in the sun, with a hole
or door to creep through, but without windows. Swarms
came out as soon as we rode up to the pillar, crying out
for bucksheesh. They are the most wretched, indolent-
looking, and poverty-stricken beings that we have ever
met.
jFunftalS.—We have seen four funerals pass our door
since we came. The wailings, in the low, chanting voice
232
EGYPT.
of the Arabic tongue, were so pensive and sad that they
pierced our very hearts. Looking out of our window
we saw the corpse wrapped in a shawl, lying in an open
box on a kind of bier, borne upon the shoulders of four
men. They bury without a cofBn. It is impossible to
describe the feelings on such an occasion, where no
Christian forms or ceremonies are observed, and the
body is laid to rest in the darkness which shrouds the
tomb of the heathen.
—We took a ride upon our donkeys, through
the Turkish, Arab, and Greek bazaars. The streets were
flowing with mud; but these little animals, as well as
camels, wend their way along regardless of circumstances.
Each bazaar is marked by the costumes of the people.
One thing they seem to enjoy in common,—smoking. In
their shops, stalls, streets, and bazaars, the pipe is always
in their mouths. On their sidewalks, in groups, and
everywhere, is seen the chibouque and the narghile, with
the steam issuing through a vase of water, refined and
purified, the very aroma of tobacco. But the Turk and
Arab, who smoke from morning until night, never spit.
It is against their religion and custom. In all our travels
in the East we never saw one spit.
The bazaars are very extensive, and filled with all
kinds of goods, fruits, and vegetables. We saw a few
women wearing those hideous veils which so disfigure the
face and form. The ebony-hued Nubian, as well as the
Turk and Arab, wear them as an indispensable article of
dress ; but we occasionally caught a glimpse of their
dark complexions as well as their eyes.
THE PALACE.
233
CfTostume.—The dress of the men is graceful and pic¬
turesque. The scarlet fez with its large silk tassel
floating upon one side, the white turban twisted around
the head, the wide trowsers, and rich silk robes fastened
around the waist by cashmere shawls of various colors,
set off their fine figures to advantage and form a pecu¬
liarly striking costume. The bazaars give a full repre¬
sentation of the different Eastern nations,—a strange
mixture of people and things.
©Ut ítifíic.—On our return we had a fall from our
donkey: the little animal slipping, the saddle gave way
and landed us in mud deep enough to save us from any
injury ; but which, adhering closely to the riding-dress,
presented a most ludicrous appearance as we passed
along. The mud appeared similar to that upon the
banks of the Lower Mississippi, and of similar color and
adhesiveness to that in our prairie lands.
Cl)e palace.—After a contest with a drove of donkey-
drivers who flock together shouting vociferously the
moment one is wanted, we rode off through a beautiful
avenue to the palace. It is situated upon the bay, com¬
manding a fine prospect of the sea, and has a paved
wharf of fine marble, with steps leading down to the
water. The front entrance is through a paved court
lined on each side with orange, lemon, and citron trees,
and flowering shrubs. Our guide conducted us through
a grand, airy vestibule of polished marble to a richly-
carpeted stairway, which we ascended with careful tread,
till, at the top, we were obliged to take off our shoes and
put on slippers, to walk through the apartments. The
19*
2¿)4 EGYPT.
entrance-hall is most exquisitely finished, the floor being
inlaid with delicate-colored woods. Passing on, we
entered a large circular room of Oriental magnificence,
unlike any thing we had ever seen. Its walls were
covered with the richest damask silk; its arched ceil¬
ing, ornamented entirely with gold. The mirrors were
chaste ; the windows adorned with elegant cornices, from
which hung a drapery of the most costly damask-satin
flowered with gold ; and the gilded divans and ottomans
were covered with embroidered satin. In the center of
the room, there were a few marble tables and chairs of
great beauty. The floor was inlaid with precious and
costly woods and with ivory in beautiful designs, radiating
from the center to the wall. The whole is so delicately
wrought, that European palaces exhibit nothing surpass¬
ing it. The center-table was a gem of beauty : it was
bordered with butterflies so true to life, that they looked as
though they would take wing. The border also was exqui¬
sitely wrought in flowers, serpents, and various ingenious
devices. The whole floor was polished like a mirror.
Judging from the business-like aspect of the hall, this
was the council-chamber or audience-room of the Pasha.
His bedroom was furnished in truly Oriental style, the bed¬
stead being entirely of silver, with an exquisitely wrought
cornice, from which was suspended a drapery of royal
purple satin flowered with gold, and bearing a heavy
fringe and tassels of pure gold. The rest of the furni¬
ture in the room was simple, adapted only to conve¬
nience. The entrance-chamber adjoining, had a floor
covered with ebony, and studded with stars of ivory.
TO CAIRO.
235
and a border inlaid with ivory. His bath-rooms were
lined with pure white marble, but had very little sculp¬
ture. Altogether, this palace of the Viceroy of Egypt
is the most unexceptionable we have seen. Splendor is
here united with the simplicity of true beauty.
Two or three portraits of the royal family were the
only pictures we saw ; and they were in the outer-rooms.
The countenance of the Pasha had an intellectual expres¬
sion ; and when young he must have been a noble-looking
man.
The language spoken in the oflScial departments is
Italian : the military costume is European. There are
many English houses where our language is spoken ;
and even the Arab donkey-boys speak it sufBciently to
accomplish their bargains with us. Alexandria is the
chief commercial city, and our consul says, in dry weather,
it is a most delightful place ; but it has rained every day
since we arrived, and filled the streets with mud like the
Slough of Despond. We made an attempt to walk
through the Turkish bazaar, but found it altogether im¬
practicable. We looked at a few of their rich shawls
and embroidered cloaks, which were very fine and expen¬
sive. There is an English church in Alexandria, which
has service in our language every Sabbath.
Co Cairo.—We left on the seventh, by the railway, for
Cairo, having a fine view of the valley of the Nile. It
lay stretched out with its palm groves and Arab villages,
like a vast plain,—the same country where " Jacob sent his
sons to buy corn, for there was a plenty in Egypt." And
here was the corn still, all along our way, gathered and
EGYPT.
lying in heaps of full ears. They appear to have no
granaries ; but thousands of bushels were lying upon
the ground in large pens made of cane. We overtook
large caravans of Arabs with their camels, donkeys,
and tents, carrying us back to the actual days of the
Patriarchs.
Along the way are many singular-looking villages or
cities, consisting of mud-wall huts, with a sort of tumble¬
down look, each with its mosque and minaret towering
above it. The shepherd with his flock scattered over
the plains, the rich and fertile fields of grain, and grass
waving in the wind, gave a pleasant impression of Egypt
life. The groups of Arabs with their sheep and camels,
presented a scene as novel as it was picturesque,—in
habits, manners, and costume our fancy pictures of Scrip¬
ture scenes. We see the sons of Ishmael wandering
over these plains, with droves of camels carrying skins
filled with water. All the drinkable water used in Alex¬
andria, is brought from the Nile in these skins.
Very few trees, except the palm, are seen in all the
plains. The climate and soil are among the best in the
world, producing three crops of grain in a year. The
Pasha has greatly benefited the country by this railway,—
thus facilitating intercourse between Alexandria and Cairo.
There is not a hill to pass over, all the way. The rich
alluvial lands resemble those along the coast of Louisiana.
We saw a few cotton fields which had been picked. The
stalks looked low, compared to those of the rich lands of
our own country. The air was soft and balmy, the skies
TO CAIRO.
237
clear, the golden sunset rich and beautiful,—very de¬
lightful for mid-winter.
The Nile, which we saw for the first time, in crossing
it to take the cars upon the other side, as there is no
bridge, resembles the soil in color, and flows rapidly, like
the Mississippi. The boat bore upon its floating banner
the crescent and star; upon its deck a crowd of indolent
Turks, sitting cross-legged, smoking their chibouque in
perfect repose,—Egyptians, Nubians, and Arabs, of all
classes, huddled together, presenting a group of strange
people with strange languages.
p
CHAPTER XV.
CAIRO.
Ôîairo.—The first view of this city with the Pyramids
at a distance in the desert, the ranges of barren hills, the
lofty palms, the low Arab huts in the suburbs, the mosque
and minaret towering above them all, the long trains of
heavy-laden camels, the crowds of Arabs, Turks, Egypt¬
ians, Nubians, Albanians, and Assyrians, in their varied
costumes, was a sight so strange and imposing as almost
to bewilder the senses. In the public streets and market¬
places were groups of men, women, and children seated
upon the ground along the walls, with their camels kneel¬
ing down beside them, as if at home in one family. The
scene was strikingly Oriental.
We took lodgings at Shepherd's Hotel, a massive stone,
palace-like building, having a central position opposite
the Ebekiah Gardens, a fine promenade lined with the
acacia and other evergreen trees.
Some attention appears to be paid to horticulture ; but
Egypt seems to have but few indigenous flowers. The mi¬
mosa in its rich luxuriance, and the wide-spreading acacia
'Avith its pendant boughs of dense foliage and fragrant
blossoms, and other trees, render these walks almost im¬
pervious to the sun's rays. Little trellised arbors of
238
FRIENDS.
239
bamboo-cane are scattered along under these shady trees,
where the Turk sits all day long, smoking his chibouque,
selling fruits, or playing some of their games. Our
hotel was large and airy, having a garden in the court
filled with rich and beautiful flowering trees, shrubs, and
tropical plants. There was one peculiar shrub, very gay
and brilliant, whose beauty consists in a scarlet leaf
which never has a shade of green.
There is something very striking in the manner ser¬
vants run before the carriages of their masters. We
saw four, well dressed, running before a carriage, re¬
minding us of the manner in which the prophet Elijah
ran before the chariot of Ahab. Every thing here
is picturesque and poetical. The lofty palm, with its
graceful leaves waving in the wind, the mosque and
minaret, the long train of camels laden with " the treasures
of Egypt," the tents scattered about in market-places,
groups of Arabs and Turks sitting with their long pipes,
in flowing robes, the fez and turban, the multitudes
with Oriental costumes, fill out the picture of every-day
life in Egypt.
jFtietthS.—We made the acquaintance of the Rev. Mr.
and Mrs. Leider, Episcopalian missionaries, and the Rev.
Mr. and Mrs. Martin, Presbyterian missionaries, from
America, particular friends of the late Dr. Clin. Mrs.
L. has a missionary-school of girls, mostly of the Coptic
Church. They showed us every attention which a stranger
could desire, making their house free to us at all
times. Their rooms are almost a museum, filled with
rare antiquities and books. They have resided here
240
CAIEO-
more than twenty years, and are able to give that kind
of information which is most desired. We made inquiries
relative to the success of the mission, and learned that
they had not made the progress anticipated. The spell
of Mohammedanism can only be broken by the power of
God. It is a religion too agreeable to the senses to be
easily discarded for that of the cross.
JïlCiSiqutg.—We have visited two mosques. The first
was Sultan Hassan's, chiefly admired for its architectural
beauty. His tomb is in the central dome, where there
are stains of blood still on the pavement, from the mas¬
sacre of seventy-five Mamlukes who were slain while at
prayer, being suspected of a plot upon the Ufe of Mo¬
hammed Ali.
The new mosque of Mohammed Ali, upon the citadel,
is very beautiful. Its minarets shoot up into the air in
such graceful proportions, and its swelling domes are so
beautiful, that this mosque holds a fair rank as a work
of art. The walls inside are lined with pure alabaster ;
and its ornaments of gold give it a chaste and peculiar
splendor. There are a thousand glass lamps suspended
around the dome, lighted on the feast of Bammadan. A
long line of worshipers were at their devotions as we
entered, bowing their faces to the floor in profound
adoration. Their simplicity and earnestness touched our
hearts; and we felt sad at the thought of those errors
which hold the human mind captive by its power. In
one corner of the mosque is the tomb of Mohammed
Ali, inclosed by gilded trellis-work, through which we
could look and see his splendid monument. It was
SULTAN'S TOMC, CAIRO.
THE BAZAARS.
243.
draped with crimson cashmere, and the windows were
hung with green and gold.
The citadel commands a fine view of the city, the
valley of the Nile, and the Pyramids in the distance.
The spot was pointed out to us where Emir Bey, one
of the Mamlukes escaped over a wall with his horse,
which was killed under him, at that dreadful massacre,—
a circumstance well known in history.
Cije palace.—We passed through the Pasha's gardens
into his palace, and had a view of the splendors of his
rooms. They were richly furnished with divans of satin,
curtains of damask, carpets of exquisite beauty, mirrors,
marble baths, and all the luxury of an Eastern court;
though not in such fine taste as in his palace at Alexandria.
In one room was a corner-seat for himself, covered with
a cloth of gold. He has several more palaces, superbly
furnished.
SJoSfplj'S — From this palace we went to
Joseph's Well, two hundred and sixty feet deep, dug out
of solid rock by the ancient Egyptians. The bottom is
reached by a winding staircase, which we attempted to
descend; but our strength failed, after going down part
of the way, and we were glad to return.
Cfitlöafaatß, which are among the greatest curiosities
of Cairo, form the principal trading streets of the city.
There are quarters for the English, French, Spanish,
Turks, Egyptians, Greeks, and Armenians ; and they are
so thickly crowded that it is difficult to press through the
throng. All kinds of goods and clothing are exhibited,
from the velvet basque, embroidered with gold, to the
20
244
CAIRO.
yellow slipper and scarlet fez. There were separate de¬
partments for fruit and vegetables. Veiled ladies, with
their slaves, were also seen, amid the crowd, exhibiting
their wide, embroidered trowsers and silk dresses of gayest
colors. Over all their finery, the ugly black veil is
thrown, with a slit cut for the eyes, and a gold chain
suspended between them over the nose to fasten it to¬
gether, so that they can peep out at others and not be
seen themselves. Occasionally we could get a glimpse
of their large black eyes and rather dull complexions.
iíTombS of tffZ Ötalip50.—A visit to these dwell¬
ings of the dead—bordering upon the desert, outside the
gates of the city—is most deeply interesting. They are
built with graceful domes, and sometimes with a minaret,
and are used for Moslem worship. The scene was pic¬
turesque, notwithstanding the barren, sandy desert, unre¬
lieved by a spire of grass, tree, or shrub. The Mok-
katan Hills on one side, which we ascended with diffi¬
culty, gave a most commanding prospect of the city.
The great valley of the Nile, the Pyramids, and the
sandy desert, which stretched out upon one side like
unlimited space, formed a landscape seldom seen. It
was sublime from its very vastness, though comparatively
a plain. Its effect upon the mind is not unlike that of
the ocean, or like looking up into the immensity of space.
The mind expands with the view, and spreads abroad
its wings to grasp at the infinite, and repose in the
sweet contemplation of Him who has spread out the
world over empty space and hung it upon nothing. The
sandy desert seems to stretch out in unmeasurable length.
DEATH OF THE GREEK PATRIARCH.
245
blending in the distant horizon with clouds of sand,
floating in the atmosphere like a gentle mist, which
" Stirs the feeling infinite, so felt
In solitude, where we are least alone ;
It is a tone.
The soul and source of music, which makes known
Eternal harmony, and spreads a charm.
Binding all things with beauty."
The winds blew with such violence from the desert that
we could not long survey this grand and unique pano¬
rama; yet it was delightful to linger where so many
sacred and historic associations abound. Here was the
cradle of genius, of philosophy, and letters. This was
the birthplace of Moses, the scene of his miracles, the
land of the Pharaohs and Ptolemies, and the country, too,
of Joseph and Mary fleeing from Herod with the child
Jesus.
of tSf ^atriarc]^.—We were called out
in the morning, to witness the grand funeral procession
of the thousands who filled the streets. There were
several fights among the Arabs, who were stealing the
wax candles from the officers as they were carrying them
lighted, to the tomb. The sword and bayonet having
been called into requisition, the procession, at length, ad¬
vanced with due solemnity. Upon a large car, drawn by
six black horses with funeral badges, was the corpse, in
full canonicals, with a golden miter upon his head. The
body was sustained in a recumbent position, with the head
so elevated upon a cushion that we could distinctly see
the features. Over the body was a canopy, supported by
his successor, in the Greek clerical costume, shining with
•246
CAIRO.
gold. Before the car were many priests, dressed in long
robes of different colors as badges of mourning, chanting
as they marched, and hearing ornamental glass lamps.
Two hands of music were in the procession, playing a
military dirge. Altogether, it was a strange and repul¬
sive sight.
Having arrived at the church, the body was seated
in a chair of state for the mournful ceremonies. The
priests advanced and kissed his hand ; after which a
sermon was preached, or rather a eulogy was pronounced :
his gold-embroidered robes and miter were removed,
leaving him clad in a plain white satin shroud. The
people were then privileged to advance, and kiss his foot,
or robe, or any part of his garments. The body was then
conveyed to the tomb below, placed upright in a chair, to
remain in that position unmolested, in the solitude of
death, until another bishop dies, when the crypt is again
opened for a similar reception; and the former is re¬
moved, and seated around the vaulted chamber.
fftoptic —These ancient and singular edifices
are of the Saracen order of architecture. The different
apartments are separated by a filagree net-work of
carved wood, like bamboo-cane. The high pulpit is
inclosed like a cage with the same materials. The build¬
ing is made of massive stone, without ceiling, the rafters
being bare. A few pictures of saints hang around upon
the walls, one of which represents the flight of Joseph
and Mary into Egypt. Tradition says, that, for a while
during their sojourn in this country, they were concealed
in a grotto beneath this church. We were conducted by a
THE SHOOBRA GARDENS.
247
priest with a light, down a flight of steps into the bap¬
tistery, which has an arched ceiling and fluted granite
columns of singular workmanship. It was a dark, dis¬
mal place, interesting only as associated with the customs
of early Christian denominations. A fountain was shown
us, used for baptismal purposes.
On our return, we saw a flne group of Egyptian youths
dressed in dark-blue Oriental costume, attached to a
French military school.
We passed some groves of the date-palm, and valleys
rich with verdure where the sugar-cane grows in rich
luxuriance all the year. The Pasha has mills for grind¬
ing it ; but wood is so scarce in Egypt, and coal—which
is brought from England—so expensive, that the Arabs
cultivate it simply for eating. It is quite an important
article of food with them.
âiJOObïa ÍKarhenS, celebrated for their beauty,
are kept in better order than any we have seen in the
East. They are situated near the borders of the Nile,
four miles from the city. The avenue by which they are
reached, is shaded all the way by the wide-spreading aca¬
cia and the sycamore, forming an arch of rich and dense
foliage, giving a beautiful perspective. The walks of the
garden radiate from the center to diflierent parts, and are
bordered with orange-trees and flowering-plants of various
kinds. The sweet rose blooms in perfection, sending
forth its fragrance upon the balmy air. The blood orange
and mandarine are among the choice fruits.
îHtiosfeB anh ^Palactrs.—The grand kiosks and Pasha's
palace are magniflcent. In the court of the palace is an
£0"
248
CAIRO.
immense marble fountain surrounded by a marble balus¬
trade, having little marble kiosks projecting into the
water, with divans for repose. Its columns and moldings
were brought from Carrara. This fountain was de¬
signed, it was said, for the Pasha's wives to sail upon.
A beautiful corridor surrounds the building ; and at each
of the corners are rooms elegantly furnished in a blended
Oriental and European style. All the windows of the
building are of stained glass of different colors. Glass
lamps of various designs, eight or ten feet high, stand
around the gallery. We entered another kiosk with one
circular room, large and airy, furnished with divans of
great beauty, and lighted by windows of finely-colored
glass.
ÔÎUStOtltS.—A singular custom prevails in the East, of
calling the servants by clapping the hands instead of
ringing a bell. The servants are all Arab men, having
stations along the galleries. Not a female servant was
to be seen at any of the Eastern houses at which we
stopped. Veiled women cannot work; and they are too
exclusive to be seen in domestic duties, of which they
also appear to be totally ignorant. Their homes are
destitute of those utensils which require much labor, and
their wants appear but few ; but their condition is sad
and degraded, having neither the light of intelligence to
brighten their pathway on earth, nor the religion of Christ
to point them to a higher state of existence beyond.
iítosquí —In old Cairo is seen this edifice built
by the Saracen conqueror whose name it bears. It is
said to have been adorned with one thousand and one
MOSQUE AMR.
249
hundred columns, and no two alike. On erecting this
stupendous building, he exclaimed, " With this mosque
the religion of Islam rises ; with its fall, perisheth the
faith of our holy prophet." " This nation perisheth with
it." And his prophecies seem to be fulfilling to the
letter.
It covers a large space of ground, and has a fountain
in the center of its open court. A corridor once sur¬
rounded this magnificent temple, having a double row of
columns in front, so close together that they almost
touched. One of them, from a traditional virtue attached
to it, is called the "eye of the needle." If a person
can squeeze through it, he is entitled to Mohammed's
Paradise ; it has also certain salutary effects upon dis¬
eases. One of our friends, an American clergyman, of
small stature, passed through with some difficulty.
One row of arches has mostly fallen, and its broken
columns lie scattered about. The beautiful fountain in
the center is crumbling away, its roof falling, and the
fragments hanging like broken icicles, ready to dissolve
away by the rays of the sun. The water is no longer
there for holy ablutions, and its worshipers seem to have
deserted its shrine, while no one puts forth a hand to
stay the progress of its fated ruin.
The Viceroy of Egypt, with millions at command, takes
no interest in this noble building, leaving it to the
hand of time, which, though slow, is sure in its destruc¬
tion. The climate is so dry that decay is much less
rapid than in our own country. The stone in their
buildings remains, but the sun-burnt brick falls to ruin.
250
CAIRO.
"This mosque, the oldest in Egypt, was constructed in
A.D. 633," and was made to resemble in its form the
works of nature. Its open court is surrounded by co¬
lumns, on one side so thick and numerous, as to appear
like a forest sanctuary.
Cotnb of is in one corner of the mosque,
inclosed by walls with latticed doors and windows, and
so situated that we could stand in the spacious court and
view his monument, as also the thousand columns brought
from the Grecian and Roman temples to adorn this
mighty one of Moslem faith, built upon the ruins of the
Egyptian Babylon.
This city, which Amr founded, has degenerated into
the most miserable Arab village in the suburbs of the
capital. No human dwellings can surpass in wretched¬
ness, these mud-wall habitations, where goats, donkeys,
chickens, and families, all live together. The goats feed
upon the house-tops, which are covered with earth and
straw, and but a few feet from the ground.
©atna Cagloon.—This mosque, "founded in A.D. 879,
is the oldest in the metropolis, having been built nearly
one hundred years before any other part of the city." It
is a massive building of vast dimensions, with a beautiful
court and fountain. A multitude of Turks were sitting
about in groups, smoking the chibouque. This temple is
peculiarly interesting from its use of the pointed arch of
the Saracenic order, one hundred years before its intro¬
duction into England.
The windows are very small and protected by a lattice¬
work of wood. Its arches are singularly beautiful. This
THE FORTRESS.
251
mosque is very large but in a most dilapidated condition.
It has a spacious court with a large fountain in the
center.
The minaret, unlike any in Cairo, has a winding stair¬
case upon the outside to its very top, to which, after
climbing over broken walls, and crowding through nar¬
row wooden gates guarded by fierce-looking Arabs, we
made an ascent. The steps, though of stone, are broken
all the way ; and the dilapidated condition of the railing
made the ascent fearful. From the summit we had a fine
view of the Citadel, the tombs of the Mamlukes, and the
Mokkatan Hills. Upon the top of these hills, is an old
ruin called Moses' chair, where tradition says he sat to
look over the camp of Israel as they were arranged for
departure from Egypt. Viewed from the minaret, the
mosque, with its graceful dome and pointed arches, pre¬
sents a singular combination of architecture ; but it is
crumbling away, slowly but surely, no effort being made
to check the progress of its ruin. The windows are
broken, its fountain despoiled of its beauty, and its wide,
open court is lined with a most fearful set of miserable-
looking Arabs gathered in groups, some smoking, and
some following every stranger and crying BucksTieesh !
They beat one of our donkey-boys unmercifully, because
he would not yield to their demands for more buck-
sheesh.
JpOttVC80, at the camp of the Caesars, forms one
of the most interesting ruins of Cairo. Strabo, in speak¬
ing of it, says, "In sailing up the river, we meet in
Babylon a strong fortress, built by some Babylonians
252
CAIRO,
•who had taken refuge, to make a settlement. At present
it is an encampment of one of the three legions which
garrison Egypt." The entrance to this grand fortress,
was formerly by a splendid archway now filled up with
earth, and nothing is seen but the cornice which adorned
the arch above and the Roman eagle carved upon its
cornice. The bastions on each side of its entrance, are
still grand and imposing in their ruins ; the third has
partly fallen, but the walls of the camp, formed of brick
and Roman cement, are still as hard as adamant.
This fortress, a most important position in the reign
of the Caesars, was the central point of Egypt, from which
its principal roads radiated. Its walls inclose several
acres of ground, making a wide and beautiful court
within. Entering through an old massive gate, which
grated upon its hinges with a heavy sound, we passed along
a narrow, winding passage like the streets of a city, to
its halls of justice, its court, and palace. Some of the
stones of these ancient walls are said to bear dates of the
time of Nebuchadnezzar. Some parts of the building
show great rudeness of architecture, others the Saracenic
and Roman ideas. In an open court or saloon above, are
large, heavy seats of primitive style, where, unquestion¬
ably, once sat Roman heroes and warriors, with the
waving plume and glittering helmet, in full military
glory ; and where Mark Antony followed the footsteps
of Egypt's fairy queen, to cast all his spoils and honors
at her feet.
The upper rooms, reached by many passages and flights
of steps, and through splendid halls, are exceedingly
THE FORTRESS.
253
beautiful. These might have been the banqueting-rooms
where the beautiful queen, Cleopatra dissolved the pre¬
cious pearl in a glass of wine, to surprise her enamoured
lord and captive with the expensiveness of her feast.
The windows of this saloon, occupy the entire sides,
except the arched doorway, and are most elegantly
carved in wood. The terraced roof forms an open court,
from which we enjoyed one of the most lovely views of
the city, the mosque of Mohammed Ali, the Pyramids
and desert in the distance, and the green valley of the
Nile with its groves of palms. But how changed since
the reign of the Caesars ! The glittering helmet and
plume are seen here no more; the tramping of their
horses and the rolling of chariots, are sounds now un¬
known ; the lofty arch, through which the horse and
rider passed in triumph, is choked up with sand and rub¬
bish, and its proud eagle spreads its wings in derision ;
the palm and the olive flourish in its untrodden court,
and silence reigns in its vast halls. How strictly have the
scriptural prophecies been fulfilled ! " Thus saith the
Lord ; They also that uphold Egypt shall fall ; and the
pride of her power shall come down ; from the tower of
Syene shall they fall in it by the sword, saith the Lord
God. And they shall be desolate in the midst of the
countries that are desolate, and her cities shall be in the
midst of cities that are wasted. And they shall know
that I am the Lord, when I have set a fire in Egypt,
and when all her helpers shall be destroyed."
The magnificent hall of justice has been transformed
254
CAIRO.
into a Coptic church, and another apartment, above it, has
been fitted up with some ingenious carvings in wood, for
the Greeks.
gîecerataij'S Sgnaflogur.—In another part of the camp,
is an ancient temple, called Jeremiah's Synagogue,—a
singular-looking building, dark and dusty, and only in¬
teresting from its association with the Jews. The altar
of the high-priest has an arch of fine wood, upon the cor¬
nice of which, are still visible the carved Hebrew charac¬
ters. In a little curtained recess in the wall, we saw their
church-roll, well kept; and in another remote corner, the
holy fire, still burning. In this place tradition says the
manuscripts of Jeremiah were written, and kept secreted
for centuries.
Passing around the synagogue, we came to a well dug
in the rock, many feet deep, which must have been used
for the camp in ancient times.
St. SíPPÍcn'jS.—Not far from the Pretorium, is an¬
other Coptic church, called St. Stephen's,—^an obscure
building, of the same general aspect as the other churches,
with gilded pictures and lattice-work, upon which are
carved scriptural scenes. It is held that, in this edifice
St. Peter wrote his epistles, and they quote this passage
as proof:—
" The church that is at Babylon, elected together with
you, saluteth you; and so does Marcus my son."
" The Copts claim the honor of the epistles being
written from this ancient Babylon." This church is not
far from the one built over the grotto where Joseph and
THE COPTS.
Mary with the child Jesus were hidden on their flight
into Egypt.
^t)C co-opts are a peculiar people ; perfectly distinct
in character and position from the other dwellers in
Egypt. They did not join the Crusaders in the holy
wars, and have preserved the Bible among them.
They have suffered so much from persecution that their
countenances wear a subdued and grave expression.
Their black turbans add to their solemnity of appear¬
ance, so that there is no mistaking a Copt. " They are
the only people in the East who take the Bible for their
text-book," although they have their own traditions.
They suffer no innovations upon former customs, ad¬
hering strictly in all their forms and ceremonies to the
Fathers. Education has been sadly neglected among
them ; though Mrs. Leider, the wife of the English Epis¬
copal missionary, has labored twenty years here, and has
done much for them.
We visited her school consisting of ninety girls. It is
conducted on the monitorial plan, the Copt girls acting
as monitors. They are taught the Bible, the Catechism,
and the useful branches of housekeeping. The girls
were dressed in Oriental costume, with veils hanging
down to their feet, but thrown back, and their faces being
uncovered.
There were a few in the school with blue veils : these
were Mohammedan children, and their veils were the
mark of distinction. Some girls only seven years of
age, wore scarlet veils, as a sign of their being betrothed.
There were a few Armenian girls, readily distinguished
Q 21
256
CAIRO.
by their fairer complexion. They are all taught the
Bible, in the Arabic language, which they speak. The
English is not taught.
The Rev. Mr. Leider has also a school for boys. The
house they occupy—formerly a palace—affords not only
their residence and a place for their schools, but for their
church also.
(¡Íf)urc1^e0.— Neither the Armenian nor the Greek
Church permits the females to worship with the congrega¬
tion, allowing them only to occupy a very high gallery.
The Greek Church, the most elegant, has a net-work of
delicate wire all around it, through which the women can
look down into the body of the church. The Armenian,
has, instead, a high lattice-work of wood. The women
had no books, and seemed to be bowing and repeating
a prayer. The Greek women were more elegantly
dressed, but less devoted than the Armenians. The
Greek Church is also richer and more elegant, and the
congregation much larger. Ladies, dressed in costly
silks, were going and coming throughout the service.
iKuminieS.— Our former consul, Mr. Kahile, kindly
took us to the museum of mummies and the gods of
Egypt. Upon sarcophaguses were the mummies, ex¬
posed for sale. Boxes were filled with the fragments of
mutilated ones,—legs, feet, hands, and arms, all sepa¬
rate. There were also many sealed jars, containing all
kinds of birds and animals. There were shelves full of
little gods of every form, taken out of the wrappers
which bound them up with the mummies. There were
also innumerable shelves one above another, filled with
DONKEYS—THE COUNTRY.
257
dry bones to the very ceiling. A strange cabinet of
birds, reptiles, and human beings, huddled together like
a mass of petrifactions.
—Donkey-riding, in Cairo, well nigh ranks
among the accomplishments, and is one of the most
agreeable and convenient methods of sight-seeing in the
city and its environs. They are so small, that they can
make their way through a crowd better than any other
saddle animal, and their motion is gentle and easy. We
met every day, in the bazaars and streets, droves of
camels with enormous loads, among dense crowds of
people; but these little creatures, guided by skillful
drivers, took us safely through the formidable crowd. It
is estimated there are thirty thousand donkeys kept in
Cairo, whose owners, having picked up a little English,
give them such fanciful names as Fliberty-Gibbett, Go-
lightly, Dundee, &c. ; and who endeavor to sustain their
good reputation by saying, " My donkey good ! my donkey
never tire!" Early every morning they stand in groups
before the hotels, ready for service. Last week the city
was almost evacuated of these animals, in consequence
of their being sent for by a company of British soldiers,
bound for India by the overland route, to help them
across the desert.
CilT (Fountrp.—We started with a party, to visit
ancient Heliopolis, the land of Goshen, once occupied by
the sons of Jacob. We met parties on the way which
might represent that family, both in character and cos¬
tume; for one might infer that in customs and dress
they have not changed since the days of the patriarch,
258
CAIRO.
although their morals have deteriorated. We rode
through beautiful green fields. on the borders of the
desert, where olive orchards were loaded with fruit, and
where flocks of camels and their young were feeding
upon the rich pastures. Wells are seen all along the way,
from which the water was drawn by oxen, to irrigate^ the
soil. Small-mouthed jugs are fastened to the wheels,
which, when raised, are emptied into troughs, and the
water conveyed in little channels along the grounds.
Fields of grain adorned this beautiful landscape; and
the whole valley was rich in native vegetation. In the
suburbs of Cairo we saw large gardens of leeks and
onions, reminding us of those which the children of
Israel pined after on their pilgrimage. To ride through
a country of such scriptural associations, where the inha¬
bitants have not advanced in civilization and improve¬
ment, carries the mind back to the remote period of time,
and causes one to feel as though living in other days.
Egypt is a most peculiar country, ever presenting features
new and interesting in connection Avith the Past.
^i^eltopoUS.—One solitary monument still stands, in
isolated grandeur, to identify the spot of the city of On,
and to throw a halo of light upon its sacred history. It
is one of the oldest monuments of Egypt, and the only
relic left of this far-famed city, renowned for its early
literature and its schools of science, and where the philo¬
sophers of Greece—Pythagoras, Plato, and others—re¬
ceived instruction. Here Joseph married his wife, the
daughter of a priest of On. There stands the obelisk,
as it did then, a proud monument of the Past. The
THE WELL OF JOSEPH.
259
earth which had covered the pedestal about thirty feet,
has been partially removed, so that we could go down to
its base. The temples have all been destroyed. Nothing
remains but some blocks of marble prostrate upon the
ground, which might have adorned them. A few Arab huts,
and some gardens of oranges and groves of olives, linger
near the spot. Ascending a mound of rubbish outside
of the city,—composed of sand, pottery, and sun-burned
brick, like the ruins of Arab villages,—we contemplated
the scene before us, filled with wonder at the changes
which, by the providence of God, are permitted to go on
in this world. This city—which Strabo the historian
considered ancient in his day, long before Christ—must
have carried the arts and sciences to a high degree of
perfection ; for they founded schools of astronomy and
philosophy, of which the Greeks availed themselves in
establishing their own. The wealth and glory of Egypt
"when Joseph was made governor" must have been
great; Heliopolis, Memphis, Thebes, and Luxor were
then filled with the wonders of art. The relics along
the Nile show their former grandeur. These have all
passed away, save this obelisk alone, which has a world
of thought of lasting interest clustering around it.
Cfte 2121îell of HJOSepi).—On our return we stopped at
the well of Joseph and Mary, where tradition says they
drank, in their flight from Palestine with the child Jesus.
The antiquity of the well cannot be doubted. Here
also they rested under a large sycamore-tree, of many
centuries' growth. A large garden is cultivated near this
well, surrounded by a thick copse of trees, where the
21*
2GU
CAIRO.
weary traveler seeks repose in its cooling shade. On our
way also we passed the palace of Hassein Bey, which has
a fine tower and an observatory. A military station is
kept in a part of the building, which is the pride of the
present Pasha. In the suburbs of the city is a khan,
into which a long train of camels were going. We saw
a caravan with its large boxes of goods lying upon the
ground, surrounded by the camels, forming a most pic¬
turesque scene. We witnessed the operation of making
sun-burned brick. They were made with straw, like
those made by the children of Israel, when in bondage
with task-masters.
CilC CoitlhS are built of these brick, and then white¬
washed. We saw the domes of several, whose walls were
falling to pieces. There were many Arab tombs away in
the desert, two or three miles from any village, where
the sand, perhaps, had encroached upon the lands. In
view of the Tombs of the Caliphs and Mamlukes, no one
could wish the relief of a tree or a shrub, so strangely
beautiful are their designs to suit the place and circum¬
stances of their location. No living thing is near them,
but the dry sand surrounds them on all sides, adding
dust to dust.
—We met a lady one evening in the bazaar,
most splendidly dressed with lilac-satin trowsers under a
rich embroidered robe of pink silk. She was closely
veiled ; but we could see her eyes, which she used, as well
as we, ours. Attended by her maids, she was mount¬
ing a donkey at a shop-door. They all go out with
serving-maids, black or white in attendance, veiled like
PETRIFIED FOREST.
201
themselves. A young girl would not think a doll fully
dressed without a veil over its face. We have seen little
children fixing the veil over their chubby faces, as the
first article of ornament. If their forms were destitute
of decent covering, but the veil was there, they would be
satisfied.
fi^OUgeS.—The external appearance of the houses in
Cairo is peculiarly interesting, and in some respects very
beautiful. Their latticed windows project out like a bal¬
cony, where they can stand, see all that passes below,
and speak to their neighbors opposite, through their deli¬
cately-carved net-work, without being seen. It reminded
us strongly of the scriptural allusion in the beautiful
song of Deborah the prophetess. " The mother of Sisera
looked out at a window, and cried through the lattice,
Why is his chariot so long in coming ? Why tarry the
wheels of his chariot ? Her wise ladies answered her,
yea, she returned answer to herself. Have they not sped,
have they not divided the prey ? to every man a damsel
or two, to Sisera a prey of divers colors of needle-work,
of divers colors of needle-work on both sides, meet for
the necks of those that take the spoil."
All this is characteristic of the Eastern people at the
present day,—of their love of finery and elegant needle¬
work. This is almost the only use they have for the
needle.
jFortSt.—On the borders of the desert, about
six miles from Cairo, this wonderful forest commences.
We took an indirect route to find Moses' Well, which,
however, we never saw ; and after riding for tAvo hours
2G2
CAIRO.
among such heaps of rock and loose stones as almost
periled our lives, we soon came upon sand hills com¬
pletely covered with fragments of petrified trees, which
at the first glance we mistook for stones. There they
were, imbedded in the sand, forming one of the most sin¬
gular phenomena in the world. There were stumps, roots,
and limbs of trees of all sizes and shapes, as hard as ada¬
mant, with no signs of vegetable life near them, extend¬
ing for miles around. The trees appear to have grown
there, as the stumps remained while the limbs had fallen.
There are two other forests, five or six miles farther in
the desert, said to be similar to this.
The prospect on our return was deeply interesting.
Large trains of camels laden with the treasures of the
East, Cairo in the distance, the green valley of the Nile,
the Mokkatan Hills of red sandstone with a centraljrock
of lighter color reflecting the beams of a brilliant sun¬
set, and the tombs of the caliphs with their graceful
domes and minarets, made up the picture.
ifö:o0(iue of tfit itîohJling ÏBccbistfS is situated
in a beautiful retired place upon the hanks of the Nile,
in Old Cairo, surrounded by shade-trees of acacia and
sycamore.
We were conducted through narrow passages into an
open court with high walls, over which the trees cast
their shade, rendering it cool and pleasant. The ground
was swept quite clean,—a luxury in Egypt. Seats were
offered us by one of the dervishes, who wore a high cone-
shaped scarlet cap, leaving his long hair floating loosely
upon his shoulders, an open calico robe, white trowsers,
MOSQUE OF THE HOWLINO DERVISHES. 203
and red slippers, presenting a wild and picturesque ap¬
pearance, in keeping with the abstract, dreamy expres¬
sion of a ghostly character.
A multitude of Moslems were sitting upon the ground,
dressed in varied costumes. Some, richly clad in silks
and scarlet cashmere, with white trowsers and splendid
turbans, were smoking the chibouque and narghile, draw¬
ing the exhilarating fragrance through its serpentine
folds, with the water bubbling up like a fountain in the
glass vase through which it is inhaled. After we were
seated, a dervish brought us, in a little gilded stand, a
cup of coffee of which all the spectators drank.
After this, we were led into the mosque, where be¬
neath its large dome the services were performed. The
tambourine, drum, and other articles used in their cere¬
monies, were suspended upon its ceiling ; also the Moslem
banner, with its Arabic characters and coat of arms. An
arched recess on one side served as an altar, where sat a
priest upon a throne, who presided over the ceremonies of
worship, before whom the devotees bowed as they entered.
A few of them advanced, embraced, and kissed him.
A circle was then formed in the center of the room.
There were about fifty in number, all sitting upon the
floor, in loose robes, having wild, fanatical expressions,
long beards, and flowing hair. At length, a^ fine-looking
young Arab arose and began to chant in a melancholy
strain, to which the rest responded in a low groan. He
appeared to grow eloquent as he advanced in his theme ;
for his strain rose higher and higher, and his gesticu¬
lations became more violent. The sympathies of the
¿04
CAIRO-
circle becoming more excited by his enthusiasm, they
bowed their heads to the floor repeatedly, with devout
responses of groans. After this exercise, at a sign from
the priest, they arose, and formed a circle around him,
while he disrobed them of their shawls and loose gar¬
ments. Soon two young Arabs came in, dressed in close-
fitting vests, white kilts like the Albanians, close drawers
and gaiters, with the singular high cone-shaped caps of
drab color, and, stepping into the middle of the circle, be¬
gan to whirl around like a top, with their arms extended,
keeping time to a drum and other instruments, while the
circle responded by bowing the head almost to the floor,
and chanting in concert in a low, guttural sound, waving
their bodies like trees in the wind. Their long hair
floated over their brows and shoulders, giving them a wild
and maniacal expression almost frightful. The young
men still kept whirling, encouraged by the priest, who
seemed to whisper to them in token of approbation. At
length these two were relieved by others who took their
place. The company kept up their waving motions, their
notes becoming wilder and wilder, and more frightful
and hideous than ever, until the priest broke the spell,
and they stopped, all but two, who seemed to have be¬
come so excited as not to be able to stop, and who kept
on bowing and twisting, and running against the wall
with force enough to dash out their brains. At last, ex¬
hausted by their violent efforts, they fell, apparently
lifeless, upon the floor. The spectacle was too revolting
to be a source of any pleasure.
Cîntfioltc (iíoitbtltt.—This is the most successful mis-
COPTIC WEDDING.
sionary school in Cairo. The nuns have about three
hundred girls under their charge. The building is large,
and has a fine court in the center, with all the con¬
venient fixtures for teaching children in the rudiments
of education, as well as the more advanced branches.
The poor are carefully taught in all the domestic duties
of a household, of which females in the East are entirely
ignorant. There was one room for washing and ironing,
and another for sewing and fitting garments. Their
dormitories and dining-rooms are comfortable and clean.
Their unremitting care and attention to the personal
neatness and physical wants of the children, are worthy
of all praise. It is an act of benevolence scarcely
appreciated by the Egyptians, so perfectly blind are
they to all the advantages of civilization. The children
looked healthy and happy. The Lady Superior, who
went around smiling in her work of charity, was from
France, a beautiful and most accomplished woman. Two
nuns, of most attractive manners and personal beauty,
had just arrived from Germany as assistants. The con¬
vent appeared less gloomy than those of America, and
the teachers more affable and free. The chapel attached
was well furnished and adorned with a few pictures.
The Mohammedans patronize them to some extent,
several being imder their care ; but they adhere closely
to their own faith.
Ôîoptic ffiSEphhtîtg.—The longer we stay in this Orien¬
tal city, the more we are interested, and the more we
discern of their domestic life. Through the kindness of
our friend, Mrs. Leider, we had the privilege of at-
CAIRO.
tending a Coptic wedding,—a rare opportunity for a
stranger.
With her son for our guide, we made our way, by the
light of a lamp, through arched gateways, always closed
at night, and innumerable dark and narrow streets, until
we reached the house of the bride, or brides ; for there
were two to be married at the same time. Our arrival
was announced by a shrill whistle, called the "Sackarite,"
or cry of joy,—something like that of a locomotive
whistle,—which was repeated at the reception of each
guest. This cry of joy, it is said, can only be given by
Coptic women ; and it is a sound so shrill that it seems
as though no human being could utter it. We were met
at the door by a guide, who led us through a number of
large unfurnished rooms of massive walls and lofty ceil¬
ings, where, upon the floors, sat a number of turbaned
men, smoking the chibouque, like Turks. We were then
led through a passage to a flight of rude stone steps to an
upper chamber, where the bridal ceremonies were to be
performed. The room was surrounded by divans with
large cushions upon which to lean. The bishop—with
his black turban, bronzed face, long beard, and flowing
robes—was already there, sitting cross-legged, smoking
his chibouque which reached to the floor, in perfect com¬
fort awaiting the nuptial-hour. We were seated on
divans opposite him. Other ecclesiastical dignitaries,
coming in one after another, approached the bishop,
kissed his hand, touched their breasts, lips, and foreheads,
—a common Arabic salutation,—bowed with profound
reverence, and took their seats. A few only were per-
COPTIC WEDDING.
267
mitted to witness the ceremony besides the priests, who
took a part in all the exercises. One brought in a small
wooden frame which opened like a book, and placed it
upon an ottoman in the center of the room. This was
called the portable altar of the Church ; and " wherever
it is erected, there is the Church, if in a wilderness."
In the center of it, a priest placed a silver casket fas¬
tened by a jeweled clasp, containing a rare copy of the
four Gospels. Upon its four corners were placed emblems
illustrative of their faith. There were two Coptic crosses
upon one side, and two circular pieces about the size of
a common plate, fixed upon stands, on the other, all of
solid silver, and each mounted with three lighted wax
candles, emblematic of the Holy Trinity. The silver
casket had four similar ornaments illustrative of the four
Gospels, most beautifully arranged. A blind priest
entered with cymbals, attended by a young black-bearded
monk with a small bell to keep time to the music. The
dress of the elder bridegroom — a robe of dark striped
satin confined about the waist, a shawl falling down to
his feet over loose trowsers, a dark-cloth coat called a
jibba placed over the whole, and a turban of black cash¬
mere relieved by yellow stripes in its corners twisted
around his tarboosh,—gave him a grave and dignified
aspect beyond his years. His costume was that of a
scribe. The black turban is worn by the Copts to dis¬
tinguish their sect. The younger bridegroom, who ap¬
peared like a lad of fifteen, was dressed like an efiendi,
with a simple tarboosh, a close-fitting cloth vest with long
sleeves, fine claret-colored trowsers, very full, confined
22
268
CAIRO.
half-way below the knee, and white stockings, without
slippers or sandals; a shawl encircling his waist hung
at his side. His bronze countenance, though, animated
and pleasing, had too much of boyish playfulness for
matrimony. The priest had to instruct him in regard
to the ceremony. One of the party brought us sherbet;
and the young bridegroom, some little nuts and cake,
and a crimson-colored cordial exquisitely flavored, in
small glasses which held two tablespoonfuls.
After a few preliminaries, the bishop called the bride¬
grooms to him, addressed them in Arabic, and then fas¬
tened around their necks magnificent shawls of scarlet
ground relieved by flowers of gold, which fell in graceful
folds to their feet. They then retired to their seats, and
the ceremony was commenced by the bishop and one of
the priests, who alternately read the marriage-service,
partly in the Coptic, and partly in the Arabic language;
the monk keeping time with his bell to the chanting and
the striking of the cymbals.
At length the shrill cry was heard, "the brides come !"
and soon two figures clad in white stood at the door, with
some virgin attendants, who were not permitted to enter
the room. The bishop advanced, met them at the door,
and conducted them to their respective places beside the
bridegrooms, who were already seated near the altar.
The brides were enveloped in white veils,—one was thrown
back from the head, and another fell from the forehead,
reaching the chin,—delicately wrought in a net-work of
fine gold thread, through which they could see, but not
be seen. This was fastened around their heads with a
COPTIC \VE1>I>J^0.
209
bandeau of diamonds. The neck and bosom were covered
with most gorgeous ornaments of gold and precious
stones. A breastplate, called a pectoral, composed of
fifty strings of gold coins, reached to the waist in a point,
between which were costly gems, thickly set, and radiant
with beauty.
The delicate waist was encircled with a rich girdle,
fastened by a gold clasp of enormous size, from which
a drapery of pink satin, called a yellok, fell gracefully
over the wide yellow and blue satin trowsers. After
other ceremonies of reading and chanting, the bishop
joined their hands, knocked their heads together, threw
a white scarf embroidered with gold over them, and
crowned them with symbolical plates of silver, illustra¬
tive of the holy institution of matrimony. The bene¬
diction was then pronounced, and they all arose and
retired to separate apartments. Being invited to follow
the two brides to their private rooms, where men are never
allowed to enter, we found them sitting upon mats on the
floor in one corner, surrounded by a group of veiled ladies
who were examining their fine dresses, and congratu¬
lating them, as we supposed from their poetic gesticula¬
tions, upon their fortunate marriages and fine ornaments.
Our friend, Mrs. L., being acquainted with the par¬
ties, was privileged to lift their veils, and show us their
faces, which were of a bronze complexion, with features
neither classic nor beautiful, but mild and agreeable.
Their eyes were deeply stained with 'kohl, which imparts
to them a dreamy, languishing expression, peculiar to
Oriental countries where the intellect is uncultivated.
270
CAIRO.
The youngest bride appeared about twelve, the other
eighteen, an advanced age for an unmarried woman.
They are generally betrothed when children, and fre¬
quently married at ten. We passed from this to the
other apartments, where a company of friends, with the
priests, were sitting on the floor, upon mats, around the
bridegrooms, smoking and drinking coffee and sherbet.
In a corner were grouped a band of Turkish musicians,
with rude Oriental instruments, making melody which
harmonized with the company and the scenes around
them. We left them engaged in the grand festival,
which, we were told, would last until morning.
ÎSribal CîaU.—The next day, with our friends,
we called upon the young brides, a favor to a stranger
of no ordinary kind. We found them attired in the
richest costume consisting almost entirely of scarlet and
gold. Their wide trowsers were embroidered with pure
gold upon the sides from the waist to the feet. One
wore a scarlet-silk yellok wrought with gold ; and the
other, one of the cloth of gold. They were looped up,
and fell in graceful folds around their light and sym¬
metrical forms. Their basques were of dark cloth, fitted
to the form, with flowing sleeves, and heavily embroid¬
ered. Underneath was a chemise of crimson-colored
crape, confined to the wrist with a massive gold bracelet.
The bosoms also were embroidered in the same way.
Around the necks were suspended magnificent, massive
gold necklaces, superbly wrought. The pectoral, or
breastplate, which belonged to the church, was removed,
as it is used only in the marriage ceremony. A wreath
THE PYRAMIDS.
of diamonds, with the crescent and cross suspended in
front, encircled the brow of each. A short, black, net
veil a half a yard in depth, fastened to a head-dress
completely covered with spangles of gold, fell upon the
shoulders. Around their waists were heavy gold cords
and tassels, which, with the addition of embroidered
slippers and a transparent lace veil of scarlet wrought
with gold, thrown over their heads and falling down to
their feet, had a most brilliant efiect. Their eyelids
were deeply stained : and their fingers tipped with henna,
contrasting deeply with the blue paint with which the
palms of their hands and inside of their fingers were
tattooed, in a kind of net-work resembling a glove,—a
relic of barbarism purely Oriental.
The brides had all their dowry upon their persons.
This is given by the bridegroom to the parents, who pur¬
chase the ornaments, place them upon the person of the
bride, and she keeps them as her own private property.
He literally buys his wife. The common weddings are
attended by singing-women who attend the bride in pro¬
cession through the streets at night. We met several
Egyptian ladies at the house. All go through the saluta¬
tion of laying their hands upon their hearts, lips, and
foreheads. On leaving, they gave us a most aflfectionate
adieu, kissing our hands and bowing gracefully.
—We rose very early in the morning,
for our long anticipated visit to the great Pyramids,
eight or nine miles from Ghizeh. Our party consisted
of nine, and a dragoman, each with a donkey and a
donkey-boy.
U 22*
-72
CAIKO.
The sun rose in Oriental splendor and lighted up the
plentiful dew scattered over the green earth. We never
inhaled a more invigorating atmosphere. It gave us such
buoyancy of spirits that the Egyptian landscape seemed
almost to glow with beauty. Our little donkey bore us
along with such swiftness, as if he too felt its power,
making us almost forgot their proverbial stupidity. The
long avenues shaded by the wide-spreading acacia, were
exceedingly beautiful, and the whole valley was clothed
with rich verdure. The fields of barley had shot forth
the fruitful ear, and the earth was teeming with the
luxury of the vegetable kingdom.
To cross the Nile with such a party, among the scream¬
ing boatmen, was no small circumstance. After various
altercations, two boats were procured ; the donkeys
with their drivers were pitched into one, while we took
the other, and were pushed off from the shore by a tawny-
looking Turk and a wild Arab. We passed the lovely
island of Rhoda, where Ibrahim Pasha built a palace and
laid out magnificent gardens, which his successor has
neglected and left to decay. Tradition says it was upon
the shores of this island that Moses was laid among the
bulrushes, when seen by Pharaoh's daughter; but the
object of most interest now is the Nilometer, a square
well or chamber, with a graduated pillar in the center,
by which the rise of the river was ascertained, and pro¬
claimed to the world around.
The Nile, flowing with rapidity through one of the richest
valleys in the world, has no tributary within about four¬
teen hundred miles of its mouth. Its banks resemble
THE PYRAMIDS.
those of the Mississippi in many places, and its turbid
waters are colored like the earth through which they pass.
No steam ferry-boats are yet introduced ; but we under¬
stand that the Pasha has ordered a small iron steamboat
from Boston, for his own use.
We saw an abundance of grain upon the banks of che
Nile, also a variety of vegetables, including lentils, with
which their markets are supplied.
The Pyramids were seen from every part of our route ;
but occasionally the view was partially intercepted by
groves of palm-trees, whose graceful, feathery leaves
seemed to form capitals of architectural beauty.
A few Arab villages are scattered over the valley, with
the mosque and minaret towering above their mud-walled
huts scattered among the beautiful acacias and lofty
palms. Groups of Arabs were watching their sheep,
goats, and camels, in the green pastures, as in the days
of the Patriarchs.
In the valley, a group of them came out after us to act
as guides tó the Pyramids, and followed us the rest of
the way. They were dressed in turbans, loose robes, and
shawls flying from their shoulders, giving an air of grace
to their fine athletic figures.
The pyramids did not seem to increase in size as we
advanced toward them, until we reached the rocks upon
which they rested. As we stood beneath the largest,
that of Cheops, we seemed like little specks; indeed,
one single stone of its foundations, against which we
leaned, made us appear very diminutive; but not till
we looked up from this place to the towering height of
274
CAIliO.
the apex did we feel a sense of its true height and mag¬
nitude.
if^ntcance.—Three of our party, the two English
ladies and myself, resolved on entering the chambers, and
each of us was obliged to be assisted by two of our
Arab guides. We were helped up on the outside of the
Pyramid to the areh or opening into which we were to
enter, which place was filled with wild Bedouins, fighting
among themselves for the privilege of conducting us
through the passage ; and, before we could proceed, some
VEKTICAL SECTION OF THE GREAT PYRAMID.
of the gentlemen of our party were obliged to enter and
settle the matter. At last, with one Arab before with a
light and another to assist us, we entered the passage,
A A Surface of the Desert.
B Entrance.
C King's Chamber.
D Passages.
THE SPHINX.
275
almost choked with sand and rubbish. Our way was
sometimes down a long slope, then up steps almost too
high to reach, through various apartments or passages,
till it came to the king's chamber. The arrival of the
lady who had entered before me, was announced by a
loud shout from the Arabs.
îS^infl'S (itjambcr.—At length, quite overcome
with fatigue, we stood before an empty sarcophagus. No
hieroglyphics are written upon the walls of this dark and
gloomy sepulcher, nor upon the empty sarcophagus, to
reveal the mystery which rests upon the tomb. All is
still, and silent as the "House of Death." We remained
but a short time in the chamber, for the atmosphere was
so heated as to render respiration unpleasant.
^f)t V\t\üf—from the height at which we entered the
Pyramid, embraced the land of Goshen, the fields of Zoar,
and the country where the Patriarchs resided and where
Moses performed his miracles. The whole scene was well
calculated to impress the mind with the most pleasing
associations of scriptural history.
Some blocks of the granite have fallen from its sides,
and lie scattered over the ground. The second Pyramid
has lost more of its blocks than the first; so many, in¬
deed, that its sides are covered only with rough stones,
except at the top, where the casing still remains. The
rocks all around the base of the Pyramids, are per¬
forated for tombs. We entered some of them and saw
hieroglyphics upon the walls of the chambers, many of
which appeared to be sunk deep in the rocks.
—We rode to view that colossal statue,—
27Ö
CAIKO.
the great Sphinx. It is looking eastward over the valley
of the Nile, and is almost buried in the sand.
Wonderful indeed is this huge figure, with the head of a
virgin and the body of a lion ; and the contemplation of
its vast proportions, with an altar erected between its
feet for its worshipers, fills the mind, even now, with awe.
Every thing was built upon a scale to inspire the soul
with sublime emotions ; yet the objects of worship were
representations of the low and creeping things of earth.
The wealth necessary to the construction of these monu¬
ments, gives some faint idea of its glory and power when
Joseph was governor of all Egypt. But how changed !—
Desolation now reigns everywhere.
" No longer is Osiris seen
On Memphis' groves or green."
Its beautiful groves of palms still flourish, but the sands
of the desert have made inroads upon their borders. The
temples and palaces of Noph are no more !
JiJatcin.
" Bask not in courtly bower,
Or sun-bright hall of power.
Pass Babel quick, and see the Holy Land!"
Through the kindness of our friend Mrs. L., we had the
pleasure of visiting one of the grand harems of Cairo,
occupied by the widow of Mohammed Ali's former trea¬
surer. Passing through dark, dirty alleys and narrow
passages, and leaving our donkeys in the care of their
drivers, we ascended a long flight of stone steps which
led to the entrance. Here we were met by slaves, who
THE HAREM.
277
conducted us into a large and airy reception-room, well
furnished with divans.
The lady made her appearance soon after our presence
■was announced, and Mrs. L. acting as interpreter, we were
introduced to her. She was prepossessing in manners,
and received us graciously ; but a dispute arose between
her and Mrs. L. as to which should take the seat of
honor, in the corner of the room, which is always reserved
for the most distinguished person. She finally took it. Her
delicate form was arrayed in a mourning suit, consisting
of black satin trowsers, black embroidered basque fitting
the form, a black crape chemise-sleeve fastened to the
wrist, and a black velvet tarboosh, the crown of which
was entirely covered with diamonds and precious stones.
A net veil, half a yard long, also adorned with diamonds
and costly gems, was fastened to her head-dress, and
floated loosely upon her shoulders. These were all
covered with crape, adding somewhat to the beauty of
the halficoncealed gem beneath. A transparent veil was
thrown back from her face over the whole form. After
we were seated, a slave brought in the chibouque and
narghile, but the smoking of the chibouque was too dis¬
agreeable, and the serpentine folds of the narghile were
too intricate for any of our party to draw a breath
through, though politeness demanded the effort.
Coffee was then served in little cups, set in gilt stands
of net-work, elegantly wrought. The widow appeared
delighted with our presence, chatted freely, and amused
herself by giving us figurative names in Arabic, which
Mrs. L. translated to us. One, whose face pleased her,
278
CAIRO.
was compared to the moon ; and others received poetic
names, equally significant.
We were privileged to see all the apartments of the
house. Each has a separate halcony overlooking a gar¬
den, where many varieties of shruhs and flowers were in¬
terspersed with orange-trees loaded with fruit. We were
introduced to two of her grand-daughters, of the age of
ten and twelve, who were brought into our presence un¬
veiled, most superbly dressed in the Turkish costume.
Their full trowsers of striped pink satin, their claret-
colored cloth basques with deep borders, embroidered
all over with gold, their yelloks of white striped satin
figured with gold, their beautiful necklaces, their small
watches set with brilliants, suspended by glittering
chains, and the gold clasps which fastened their girdles,
were all of the richest kind. Their tarbooshes were a
perfect blaze of diamonds : one diamond in the form of
a crescent was placed on the back of the head, while the
forehead was ornamented with a small diamond wreath.
They were delicate in form, of a bronze complexion,
large black eyes, but of plain features ; very modest and
amiable in their manners. We were conducted into a
large, richly-furnished hall draped with blue silk-damask,
relieved with gold figures, the windows and doors having
curtains of the same color and material suspended
from gilded cornices of exquisite beauty. The divans
and cushions around the whole room were covered with
blue satin-damask. The ceiling was arched and orna¬
mented with Italian frescoes. In the center hung a glass
chandelier with blue drops to correspond with the dra-
A MARRIAGE PROCESSION. 27Í»
pery and furniture. Beneath it was a large white marble
center-table with a gilt frame, covered with beautiful glass
ornaments of difierent shape and color set in gold, with
baskets, bottles of perfume, and a variety of things which,
though very rich, would have been more appropriate for a
lady's boudoir than a parlor. The carpet, the only piece
of furniture which contrasted in color, had a crimson
ground, perhaps designed to set off the rest more fully.
Over the door of entrance, was hung in a frame, a small
picture of the American banner, obtained by the son-in-
law of this widow, who calls himself an American citizen,
having lived in America one year.
All the rooms of the house were elegantly furnished in
distinct colors, though not as rich as the parlor.
Although they still continue the Eastern custom of
sitting on mats or divans when eating, yet out of polite¬
ness to us, they spread the table in the large and airy
dining-room. Fruits, cakes, nuts, tea, and various other
dishes were served. There were present about a dozen
guests, who spoke six different languages. Our inter¬
view was very entertaining, and the widow seemed to
enjoy it exceedingly, displaying it by a playfulness of
spirit quite amusing. She stole one of our hats, and put¬
ting it upon her head, danced about the room, ran down
stairs like a little girl full of fun and frolic.
ñ iïlartiagt procession.—Going through the bazaars,
we met a marriage group of Mohammedans, making their
way slowly along the streets, amidst a crowd of people,
camels, and donkeys. The bride was entirely enveloped
in a scarlet cashmere shawl confined around her delicate
23
280 CAIRO.
■waist. Two persons were leading her slowly along, said
to be her mother and mother-in-law. Four young virgins
held a canopy over her head, composed of scarlet and
blue silk, while another walked backwards before her,
with a fan to keep her from fainting. Four others dressed
in scarlet, preceded her, and an old man walked behind
with a rude instrument, keeping time by singing and
chanting, as they slowly marched along. These proces¬
sions are frequently seen in Cairo in the daytime among
the Mohammedans, but not among the Christians. Their
processions are at night ; fully illustrating that figure
in the Scriptures,—"At midnight there was a cry made,
Behold, the bridegroom cometh ! go ye out to meet
him !"
^f)C —The harem or palace of the Pasha's
sister, joining the hotel where we lodged, is one of the
most picturesque places of Cairo. It is in front of the
Ebekiah Gardens of perpetual verdure. His little son
was under the charge of an English governess, who re¬
sides with him in the palace. We saw them drive out
almost every day to take the air. When the Pasha visits
his son, he goes in state. We saw his troops ride up and
line the front of the palace. They were all mounted upon
fine bay horses, dressed in white, with shining breast¬
plates, helmets of brass, and long black boots in contrast.
Their appearance was picturesque and imposing. Soon
the Pasha's carriage of scarlet and gold, with four bay
horses, drove past the hotel and 'wheeled around in front
of the palace. His state carriage was made in European
style, and is next to that of Queen Victoria, in splendor.
the pasha's sox.
281
though not in size. He employed an English coachman,
dressed in scarlet. The hammercloth of his seat was
exceedingly rich, trimmed with a deep fringe of gold.
We had a good view of the person of his highness as
he came out of the door, followed by servants who had
charge of his little son. The boy appeared to he much
delighted with the troops and the display of firearms.
The highest object of his father's ambition is military
parade. The Pasha is a large man, of unwieldy pro¬
portions, having very little of the expression given in
the portrait which we saw in his palace at Alexandria.
STije Sow was a very interesting, fine-looking,
and intelligent boy of four years, with sprightly man¬
ners, and expressive black eyes. We spoke to him in
English, in which language he readily answered. He is
said to be very fond of his English governess, who
having lost a son of her own, was appointed as his nurse,
and has had the charge of him ever since he was born.
She is now his teacher ; and, although forbidden to inter¬
fere with his religion, it may be hoped that light will
dawn upon his intellect with a salutary influence, and
that, if he ever comes into power, "a change may come
over the spirit of his dream." It is said that he is
already betrothed to a young princess, his cousin, who is
also taught by an English governess.
âltxattîlïta.—In our second visit to this city and its
environs, we had a much better view of the place than
before. The mud had disappeared, and the streets of
the city were quite beautiful.
We rode to Cleopatra's Needles, sat down upon a wall
282
ALEXANDRIA.
by the sea in front of the standing monolith, and examined
the shaft at our leisure. The surface of the Mediterranean
was calm and serenely blue, with a little tinge of the violet
blending with the horizon. The rippling of the waves
was music to the ear, and its colors most charming to the
eye. The hieroglyphics on the side of the shaft which
faced the ocean are clear and distinct ; the others quite
defaced. It was deeply interesting in connection with
the scenery and the historic associations with the mighty
rulers whose footprints can still he traced, and whose
names are engraven upon pillars more enduring than
stone. The fallen column lies almost buried in the earth.
We revisited also Pompey's Pillar, to look again upon
this beautiful obelisk. The capital, however, some think
in had taste; hut, if it was mounted with his colossal
statue, to our eye, it would he perfect. The prospect
from its site is most charming. The sea with its varied
hues, and the shore with peculiar shades, presented a
scene of most picturesque beauty.
üflojaiumrli ISíg'S ÍKathctt.—These extensive grounds
are handsomely laid out, hut badly kept. There were
several fountains and many choice flowers, mostly ex¬
otics. The walls are surrounded with the date-palm,
which the Arabs were trimming to the height of fifty or
sixty feet. It was surprising to see with what facility
they use their feet in climbing. Encircling both the hody
and the tree with a rope, they ascend with astonishing
rapidity, to a great height, and hang by the rope and their
feet: thus supported, they take ofi" the branches and
DEPARTURE FOR JAFFA. 2cS.']
fibrous bark, which are collected for use. The bark re¬
sembles grass-cloth.
Passing through the fortifications, we rode down a
wide and beautiful avenue shaded with acacia and other
trees, where we met élite of the European and Egyptian
aristocracy in their evening drives, exhibiting their splen¬
did Oriental equipages.
(i^apel among ©atacombg.—We visited the ruins
of an old chapel lately excavated among the Catacombs.
The sand was not all removed, and the Arabs were still
digging. The body of the chapel was small, and ap¬
peared to be cut out of solid rock. Its ceilings were
arched ; and in one recess of the wall was a Latin cross
and a rude painting of Christ's miracle of the loaves and
fishes. On the opposite side was another group some¬
what defaced. Upon the wall, each side of the arch, were
two large figures, designed to represent the Saviour and
some saint. Greek inscriptions were traceable in several
places. In the transepts were a number of tombs, cut
in the rock, one above another.
îLakt ilflœCOitS.—When we returned from Cairo, we
had a fine view of the Lake Moerotis, a lovely expanse
of water,—once of such maritime importance ; but now
calm and still was its bosom, unmoved by a fisherman's
oar or boat. Aquatic birds in large flocks, were playing
undisturbed upon its glassy surface, in primitive beauty.
larpariure for Süaffa»—On leaving Alexandria, to go
on board a ship bound for Jaffa, a most ludicrous scene
of Arabs fighting for our baggage again presented itself.
One turbaned Turk, catching up a carpet-bag, ran to his
23*
284
CAIRO.
own boat to secure it. He was hotly followed by the
owner, who gave him a beating and made him bring it
back. They are great cowards and easily subdued.
As we set sail, under a clear evening sky, the harbor
was exceedingly beautiful, the Pasha's palace and fortifi¬
cations appearing to advantage ; while the light-house—
the ancient Pharos, which shed its beams upon the sails
of Alexander's ships thousands of years ago—rose, as
then, upon our sight, throwing its lengthened shadows
over the oblivion of years, and calling up the long-slum¬
bering Past.
ALE3TINE
JERUSALEM.
L- C. LOOMIS.
•Lulbec
CHAPTER XVI.
PALESTINE.
Híoppa.—Our passage was most delightful. In the
morning, we came in sight of the ancient Joppa, which
resembled a row of walls terraced to the summit of a
hill. Beyond, rose the ridge of Mount Carmel running
out in a rocky promontory, upon which the prophet
Elijah, going up to pray for rain, sent his servant to
look seven times, until he saw a little cloud rising out of
the sea: perhaps in the direction where we were then
sailing. How many scriptural incidents hallowed each
spot by their associations ! Here the prophet Jonah
sailed for Tarshish ; and King Hiram sent timbers float¬
ing upon its wave, for the building of the temple at
Jerusalem.
The landing at Jafla was difficult and dangerous. The
rocks, upon which fabulous history says " that Andromeda
was chained, and where Perseus stooped to bind up his
wounds after fighting with the Centaurs," still stand,
amid the dashing waves.
^ouiic of "Shimon ti)e Canner."—We visited this
interesting spot upon the sea-side ; stood upon the walls
which were washed by the waves, and drank from the
same well, no doubt, from which he and Peter drank.
287
288
PALESTINE.
It was in the back-court, and very deep, and had all
the marks of antiquity upon it. The English Consul,
who kindly acted as our guide, said it looked as if it
would last for thousands of years to come, so massive
and solid were its walls. A large stone tank stood in the
yard, which might have been used for tanning. A flight
of stone steps upon the outside of the house, led us to
the roof where Peter went up to pray. A more quiet
and suitable place for devotion could hardly have been
found. Away from the haunts of men, the noise and
bustle of the world, with the glorious heavens for a cover¬
ing, in sight of the beautiful sea, it was well adapted to
commune with the High and Holy One who inhabiteth
eternity. We stood upon the spot with our mind solemn¬
ized by these sacred associations. It was an hour never
to be forgotten ; and rolling years shall brighten its hal¬
lowed thoughts while time shall last. A mosque is
attached to this dwelling now guarded by Moslem power.
(îltg is of mean appearance, miserable accom¬
modations, and wretched inhabitants. We visited the
mission-house of the murdered American, Dickson, but it
was deserted,—the poor widow with her children, having
gone to Jerusalem, where we afterward met them. The
English Consul—a native who spoke our language—
gave us access to his garden of oranges, which quite
surpassed all our expectations of their growth, some
of which weighed a pound. We visited his dwelling, and
saw his wife, a handsome and most amiable Arab woman,
dressed in Oriental costume, and loaded with jewelry.
She had visited England once, and was a little European-
LKAVING JOPPA.
289
ized ; but they lived in Eastern style, with domestic
tastes quite unlike our own.
IL^abíng Hlopps*—We left Joppa for Jerusalem, with
our dragoman and guard, in company with eight persons,
all mounted upon horses,—a convenient mode of traveling
among the rocky hills of Judea. The morning was most
delightful ; and Palestine with all its holy reminiscences,
was before us, tinged with the rays of eternal truth which
brightened every unfolding prospect. The roads through
the environs of the city, for miles, were lined with orange
groves. It seemed like the world of enchantment of
Eastern tales. The trees were loaded with fruit ; lemons,
oranges, and citrons, in rich clusters, hanging from every
bough. It is said that there are oranges enough raised
in Jaffa to supply the whole of Palestine. Figs, pome¬
granates, almonds, and other kinds of fruits also grow in
rich abundance. The vegetable world was laden with its
best productions, but the moral with its worst of evils.
SbölWn.—We passed on through the beautiful plains
of Sharon (^) clustering with Bible associations, without
seeing the emblematic " Rose of Sharon but whole
fields were covered like a flower-garden, with the scarlet,
purple, and white anemone. Shepherds were watching
their flocks over thè plains, in the true nomadic life of
the Patriarchs. A flock of the wild gazelle was started
from their mountain fastness, and ran on in the distance
before us.
We passed through some singular, mud-walled villages,
with roofs of earth, completely covered with grass and
grain several inches high, illustrative of the figure used
290
PALESïINR.
by the Psalmist, in his denunciation of the wicked:—"Let
them be as the grass upon the housetops, which withereth
afore it groweth up ; wherewith the mower filleth not his
hand, nor he that bindeth sheaves his bosom."
îtgbïia.—Our English friends had letters of introduc¬
tion to one of the distinguished natives of ancient Lyd-
da,(^) where Peter performed the miracle of the restora¬
tion of Eneas. We stopped to rest at this gentleman's
house, and were entertained with great hospitality. The
lady of the house, the mother of the family, came in,
dressed in very rich, full Turkish costume, with a veil
half a yard in depth covered with gold pieces, suspended
from her fez upon the back of her head, and floating
upon her neck and shoulders. She was of middle age,
full bust,—bosom exposed,—large, lustrous black eyes,
which beamed with an amiable expression that made us
welcome. They belonged to the Greek Church.
The daughters, in the easy, simple manners of primitive
ages, served us with coffee, oranges, and sherbet. They
showed us their garden and flowers with great interest.
The gentleman accompanied us to the ruins of a Grecian
temple, whose marble walls and arches, on one side, were
standing in their original grandeur. Broken cornices,
fallen columns, and pedestals which supported other
shafts, were scattered over the ground. We visited also
an old, dark, and gloomy Coptic church, adorned with
many rude, gilded pictures of the Savior and the saints.
I^atnla.—We reached Ramla,(^) and took lodgings ata
Franciscan convent, where the monks entertained us with
great kindness. Separate apartments for ladies were
THE COUNTRY.
built on the outside of its walls, as none are allowed to
pass its threshold. One of the priests, however, presided
at our table, which was furnished with vegetables, bread,
coifee, and the most delicious fruits.
This was Arimathea, where Joseph lived, who " be¬
sought Pilate that he might take away the body of Jesus"
and place it "in a new sepulcher, wherein was never man
yet laid."
Starting early in the morning for Jerusalem, we over¬
took a caravan of about three hundred pilgrims, in dif¬
ferent parties : some upon camels with their household
stuff, women, and children, others upon mules : all wend¬
ing their way to the Holy Sepulcher, and to the river Jor¬
dan, to bathe in its waters ; reminding us of that beau¬
tiful passage in the Psalms, " Jerusalem is builded as a
city that is compact together ; whither the tribes go up,
the tribes of the Lord, unto the testimony of Israel, to
give thanks unto the name of the Lord."
The valley of Sharon resembles the prairie-lands of our
Southern and Western States.
ÎTije dounttp.—As we advanced among the hills of
Judea, our road became very rough and rocky, with little
vegetation, except the scarlet anemone, which crept
around the rocky cliffs, wreathing their rugged brows
wherever it could find earth to sustain its roots, thus
enlivening these mountain solitudes. We passed a vil¬
lage which looked as though it was cut entirely out of the
rocks, from which rushed a swarm of beggars.
We soon lost sight of all human habitations, and entered
the wild passes of the mountains of Judea. Some gorges
292
PALESTINE.
were so narrow and steep, that it was with great difficulty
and excessive fatigue that we could make the ascent.
The pilgrims wind their way slowly along with mules and
camels accustomed to the rocks. The hills toward Jeru¬
salem are desolate indeed. The rocky heights are utterly
treeless, except in a few places where the olive is culti¬
vated on the little terraces and in narrow valleys.
We passed a stone bridge over the brook said to be
where David took up the five smooth stones for his sling,
to meet Goliath in the valley below.
Toward evening, we came in sight of Olivet, with the
hills of Bethlehem in the distance. It was a welcome,
but touching scene of sacred recollections of our Savior's
life, passion, and death.
HTCUßalm.—
" The walls of Jerusalem soon burst upon our view.
A thousand voices cry, All hail ! Jerusalem !
Hill and vale catch the glad sound,—and Jerusalem, all hail !"
The appearance of the walls and gates of the city, were
more imposing than we expected to see. The city, aside
from its associations, was quite pleasing; but this was
perhaps owing in some measure to the extreme barren¬
ness of the desolate and dreary mountains which sur¬
round it. Our hotel was situated in the most interesting
part of the city, and my window faced the Mount of
Olives. On one side, is the Pool of Hezekiah ; upon an¬
other, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.
We attended divine service the first Sabbath in the
Episcopal church, and partook of the Holy Eucharist, in
memory of Him wher died here upon Mount Calvary. The
THE HOLY SEPÜLCHER.
293
place of his suffering and agony being so near to us, we
seemed to realize more fully the object of this sacrament,
and our souls were humbled under a sense of his mercies
toward a sinful world. We felt the power of the words
spoken here by the king of Israel : " I was glad when they
said unto me, Let us go into the house of the Lord. Our
feet shall stand within thy gates, 0 Jerusalem: peace be
within thy walls, and prosperity within thy palaces."
Bishop Gobat preached an appropriate and most excellent
sermon from these words, "Behold the Lamb of God,
which taketh away the sins of the world."
(Etlirct of tf)t SPpulCbft'— There is nothing
natural about this church : all looks artificial ; and,
crowded as it is now with pilgrims, it resembles a public
fair more than a place of worship. One thousand Greek-
Church Christians, with their Patriarch, had just ar¬
rived from Russia.
The streets and court of the Holy Sepulcher were lined
with venders of goods, and all kinds of souvenirs for pil¬
grims. Nor was the holy Sabbath exempt fronj buyers and
sellers. The money-changers are there still.
The church, the center of attraction to all pilgrims, is
a place to study the characters and costumes of the dif¬
ferent Christian nations of the Eastern world.
Cfie Öt^apcl, built over the Sepulcher, is like a minia¬
ture church rising under a lofty dome, which is encircled
around with galleries, where spectators can look down
upon the immense crowds assembled there. It was with
difficulty we could gain an entrance, there were so many
pilgrims going in and out. This hallowed spot, notwith-
24
294
PALESTINE.
standing the multitude, was as silent as the house of
death. Several steps led us to the crucifixion, where he
is represented as hanging upon the cross. Lamps were
burning around, and many pilgrims were kneeling. The
excess of decoration detracts from the sublimity of the
effect.
In a grotto, under another part of the church, we were
shown the tombs of Nicodemus and Joseph of Arimathea,
preserved in their rude simplicity in the niches cut out of
solid rock.
The sword and stirrups, relics of Geoffrey Bouillon, the
great Crusade conqueror, are preserved in this church
with great care.
" Here, Lord, where currents from thy wounded side
Stain'd the besprinkled ground with sanguine red,
Should not these two quick springs at least their tide
In bitter memory of thy passion shed !
And melt thou not, my icy heart, where bled
The dear Redeemer ! still must pity sleep !
My guilty bosom, why so cold and dead?
Break, and with tears the hallow'd regions steep!
If that thou weepest not now, forever shouldst thou weep."
To enter the garden of Gethsemane, where Christ poured
out his soul in agony and wet the ground with his blood ;
to know of a certainty that we are in the same place
where he spilt his most precious blood for us and the
sins of the whole world; and to feel that we have been
made partakers of its most blessed privileges, moves all
the inward emotions of gratitude to the Divine Being for
such glorious manifestations of his holy love, in opening
a pathway from this dark abode to yonder world of unin-
GETHSEMANE,
295
terrupted felicity. To be here, where these most im¬
portant events have transpired for the salvation of man,
is a favor which sinks the soul in the very depths of
humility, opens new sources of pleasure, and gives a
fresh impetus in the cause of God,
The eight old, gnarled, knotted olive-trees in the gar¬
den, situated at the hase of Mount Olivet, hear marks of
antiquity ; while their scanty foliage of silvery hue, gives
striking evidence of the years which have passed over
them ; and they may truly he considered as the descend¬
ants of those under which our Savior agonized in prayer,
sweating great drops of hlood, and where he cried out,
"My soul is exceedingly sorrowful, even unto death !"
Gethsemane brings many hallowed recollections. The
heavens are its canopy, and the earth beneath, the carpet
upon which our Savior knelt. This we may believe. The
gentle zephyr and cooling breeze sweep through the sil¬
very houghs of the olive, and breathe forth strains of
music which harmonize with the pathos of the scene pre¬
sented before us in the reminiscence of our Lord's agony
in the Garden, It is inclosed within a high wall, and laid
out in flower-beds, except where the trees stand. We
gathered a few flowers as memorials of the place, our
hearts deeply touched with the solemnities associated
with the scene. We were shown a ledge of rocks, the
place where the disciples fell asleep when Jesus went out
to pray; and a narrow passage, called " Terra Bamnata"
inclosed by a wall, where Judas betrayed our Master with
a kiss. At night, when the gates of Jerusalem were
closed, Gethsemane must have been a comparative soli-
296
PALESTINE.
tude. There our Savior might have seen the company
under the walls of Moriah on the opposite side, with their
lanterns and torches, coming to take him. As we re¬
turned, we found the roads and avenues upon the hill¬
side so full of pilgrims, that we found it difficult to make
our way through the motley crowd of people, camels, and
mules. Three thousand had already left Jerusalem for
the Jordan with their heavy burdens. The hills were
covered with women enveloped in white veils, who came
out with their children to witness the moving caravans.
Siloam.——The village of Siloam is one of
the most wretched-looking environs of the city. The
abodes are like caves and dens in the side of the earth.
The Pool of Bethesda is still seen with some ruins at¬
tached, which look as though they might have been five
porches. The Pool is reached by a flight of stone steps
so narrow that but one can go down at a time to bathe
in its waters.
2Ef)r (ÜOUnttß.—Our party having prepared for
tent-life and engaged Abdallah Yuseflf as dragoman,
started from Jerusalem to visit the holy places of scrip¬
tural memory,—places so full of interest that they ab¬
sorb every thought and every feeling of the heart. As
we passed around the city on our way, we had some idea
of its former grandeur, when the Psalmist cried out,
" Beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth, is
Mount Zion, on the sides of the north of the City of the
Great King." Lepers still sat by the road-side, begging, as
in ancient times, covered with that loathsome disease. It
is impossible to describe beings in a more deplorable con-
BETHLEHEM.
297
dition. The sight of their little children, inheritors of its
evils, is enough to touch the sympathies of every feeling
heart. The Hill of Offense, the Mount of Corruption and
of Evil Council, and the place where tradition says, Judas
hung himself, were pointed out to us.
i3rtí)lci)ctn.—Not far from Bethlehem, which is six
miles from Jerusalem, we passed the Tomb of Rachel,(*) a
monument well authenticated, whose antique form carried
us back to the Patriarchal ages with the sublimity of
scriptural history. We passed through the mean village of
Bethlehem(®) to the Convent of the Nativity, a building
so extensive and of such massive walls and towers, that
it looked more like a fortress than a place of holy wor¬
ship. It covered almost the whole hill-side, in which the
village seemed lost. In it, the Catholic, Greek, and Ar¬
menian churches are represented. The first Christian
church built within its walls, by the Empress St. Helena,
is a fine relic of antiquity. It is surrounded by Corinth¬
ian columns of fine marble; and its ceiling, though dis¬
mantled of its gorgeous ornaments of gold and marble,
displays its rafters of the cedars of Lebanon in a state
of perfect preservation. The thought was overwhelm¬
ing, that in the grotto beneath, "the Word was made
flesh, and dwelt among us." We descended a flight of
steps and entered the hallowed place to view the manger
where Christ was born. It was fitted up like a chapel,
and highly ornamented, having lamps constantly burning.
The wooden manger has been removed to the magnificent
chapel in the Basilica of St. Maria Maggiore, at Rome,
and one of marble substituted in its place. Underneath
21*
298
PALESTINE,
it, is an "agate with a silver glory" inlaid in the pave¬
ment, which, with the reflected light, looked like a bril¬
liant star, designating the place where, according to tra¬
dition, Christ was born. Long could we have lingered
with tearful gratitude in these holy precincts and around
this sacred altar, in remembrance of the greatest gift of
God to fallen man, when all heaven was moved, and the
star of glory " came and stood over where the young
child was." " And thou, Bethlehem in the land of Judea,
art not the least among the princes of Juda, for out of
thee shall come a Governor, that shall rule my people
Israel."
We were conducted along a narrow passage into the cell
where St. Jerome for thirty years devoted himself, with
fasting and prayer, to the study of the Bible, and pro¬
duced what is called the " Biblia Vulgata of the Latin
Church." Here also transpired that memorable event of
his last communion and death, so magnificently painted
upon canvas by Domenichino. This painting is now ex¬
hibited in the Vatican at Rome. A tomb was shown us
where, according to tradition, the Innocents murdered by
Herod were buried.
Some departments of the convent were filled with all
kinds of ornaments, which are sold to strangers for sou¬
venirs. It appears to be the chief source of revenue for
the poor Bethlehemites.
On our leaving the village, the women flocked out in
companies in the streets, with their little children, who
were as beautiful as any pictures of cherubs. They were
curiously dressed, their little caps or tarbooshes being all
BETHLEHEM. 29;>
covered with silver or gold coin for ornament, thus car-
rying all their treasures upon their heads. The love
of ornament predominates among all the women of the
East. They, as well as their children, are remarkable
for beauty of countenance. No Madonna, even of Ra¬
phael, exaggerates the beauty of these young mothers.
Their dresses, though common, are very graceful. Their
costume is said to have undergone little or no change
since the days of Naomi and Ruth. As we passed
through the gate of Bethlehem, we were reminded of the
time when Boaz sat in council to redeem the property of
Naomi and to receive Ruth as his bride, from whom de¬
scended the sweet singer of Israel,—the youthful Shep¬
herd who fed his flocks in these green valleys. On our
way we met one of these shepherds with a flock of sheep
following his steps among the same hills, and looking out
upon the heavens which suggested to David that Psalm
of unrivaled sublimity, "When I consider the heavens,
the work of thy fingers, the moon and stars, which thou
hast ordained, what is man, that thou art mindful of him ?
or the son of man, that thou visitest him ?" Every scene
which surrounded him was adapted to the development
of his genius in music and poetry. Here we saw the
origin of those bold and beautiful figures which give his
writings their adaptation to all conditions, circumstances,
and places, from the humblest peasant to the most
honored king.
The site of Bethlehem is among scenes of the most
picturesque and romantic beauty. Its rocky heights
and sloping hill-sides, comparatively barren, must have
300
PALESTINE.
been exceedingly fruitful under high cultivation ; for the
olive and fig grow in abundance even now. Every thing
is stationary in the East. An incubus rests upon all pro¬
gressive movements, and hope appears to have taken
wing under Mohammedan power, not to return until the
clear light of the Star of Bethlehem shall quench the pale
and glimmering beams of the Crescent.
Cotoarh J^ebron.—From Bethlehem, we passed many
very interesting places, among which were the reputed
place of the baptism of the eunuch by Philip, and the
gardens and Pools of Solomon.(®) In the beautiful
valley of Eshcol, from whence the spies brought the
rich clusters of grapes, the vineyards were still care¬
fully cultivated by laborers who occupy rocky towers
along the sloping hills. We were told that the clusters
are as large now as the Scriptures represent them.
Two miles from Hebron we entered a rich valley of
most luxuriant vegetation, as calm and still as when
Abraham communed with Grod among the ancient oaks,
in its peaceful solitude. We passed the one called Abra¬
ham's Oak, which might well be called the patriarch
of oaks, for it bears the marks of antiquity upon its ex¬
pansive brow and gigantic trunk. It measures twenty-five
feet nine inches in circumference, and the diameter of
the span of its branches is eighty-one feet. It is doubt¬
less centuries old, and may possibly be the same tree
under which Abraham pitched his tent when he came to
dwell under the oaks of Mamre. No doubt we were on
the very ground where the Most High overshadowed him
and communed with his soul. The ground beneath the oak
HEBRON.
801
was covered with a rich carpet of greensward, embossed
with a variety of wild flowers ; and the country around
was ripe with vegetation. The olive, mulberry, fig, pome¬
granate, almond, and a great variety of fruits were culti¬
vated upon its soil. Not far from this, we saw an old ruin
called Abraham's house, and a deep well of an antiquated
appearance, from which it is not improbable he drew
water. To be near where these events transpired, makes
the Bible doubly interesting, and throws a halo of light
over its sacred pages. It is the text-book of the country,
and the traveler's sure guide.
I^ehron.—We soon came in sight of Hebron with its
clustering houses, its vine-clad arbors, olive-orchards, and
beautiful gardens. " Hebron, built seven years before
Zoar, in Egypt," is now called "El-Khalil, the beloved,"
a name by which Abraham is known in the East. It is
an Oriental city in perfection ; situated upon a sloping
hill, interspersed with olive-groves and gardens, and deeply
interesting from its Bible associations. There, at the
request of David, went up the first wailings among the
Jews for the death of Abner. He commanded them to
rend their clothes a.nd gird themselves with sack-cloth,
and lifted up his own voice among them, and wept, saying,
•' Know ye not that there is a prince and great man this
day fallen in Israel?" We pitched our tents on the plains
of Mamre, in full view of the city and the mosque which
conceals the Cave of Machpelah, where the venerable
Patriarch with his family still sleep in undisturbed repose,
guarded by Moslem power.
We ascended a rock upon a hill-side opposite the city,
302
PALESTINE.
and looked over this beautiful valley. Our tents were
relieved by a back-ground of olive-crowned bills, rich in
verdure. The scene was picturesque and exceedingly
beautiful, and, associated as it was with God's covenant
with Abraham, it was of the most impressive nature. We
knew from Scripture testimony, that Abraham, Sarah,
Rebecca, and Leah were buried in the cave concealed by
the mosque before us, surrounded by a wall sixty feet
high surmounted by battlements.
In the morning, we rode through the city up to the
gates of this mighty temple, but could effect no entrance :
not even the magic power of gold could unclose these
gates to the Christian. It was once entered by a person
in the disguise of a Mussulman, who gave a description
of its splendid ornaments :—" All the sepulchers of the
Patriarchs were covered with a drapery of green silk, and
those of their wives with scarlet, flowered with gold. The
Sultans of Constantinople furnish these costly ornaments,
which are renewed from time to time." The gateways
and passages were thronged with wild-looking Arab men,
women, and children, but having flne, intelligent features,
dark, lustrous eyes, and Jewish faces. Outside the door,
and in one of the mosques, a great number of children were
reciting their lessons, some with parchments, others with
books. The sound of their youthful voices went up like
music on the evening breeze. We rode through the
bazaars, which were well furnished with various goods,
fruits, and vegetables.
Solomon's ^ools.— Returning by Solomon's Pools,(®)
we tented there for the night, and thus had a fine
THE GARDENS OF SOLOMON.
303
opportunity to examine these ancient structures, whose
massive walls look as if they would endure the ravages of
time for thousands of years to come. There are three in
number, of oblong shape, partly excavated from solid
rock, and partly constructed of mason-work equally firm.
The first is four hundred eighty feet long, the second
six hundred, and the breadth of each about two hundred
seventy feet. These reservoirs of water seem to be re¬
ferred to by Solomon:—"I made me great works, planted
me vineyards, made me gardejjs and orchards, and I
planted trees in them of all kinds of fruits. I made me
pools of water, to water therewith the wood that brîhgeth
forth trees."
Above the upper pool there is a beautiful underground
fountain, which communicates with these reservoirs. A
flight of several steps leads down to where these waters
come gushing forth from the side of the wall into sub¬
terranean passages to secret rooms, which no doubt is
the sealed fountain, or "spring shut up," alluded to in the
Songs of Solomon. We saw an arch, but it was too
much filled up with earth and rubbish for us to attempt
to pass under.
Ci)e (¡Karbeuíi of Solomon were below these pools, in a
deep, narrow valley bordered with rocky acclivities. The
almond-tree was in full bloom. The land was cultivated
by a resident of Jerusalem, who derived much profit
from it. Some of the hills were planted with vines ; and
little stone towers or lodges were built along the sides for
the keepers of the vineyards. We could well imagine
what Solomon meant, when he said, " I went down into
304
PALESTINE.
the garden of nuts, to see the fruits of the valley, whether
the vine flourished, and the pomegranates budded. In
a climate like Palestine, where tropical fruits and those
of the temperate zones flourish together, it is impossible
to do justice to the scenery. These gardens must have
been a paradise of beauty, to illustrate that charming
figure, " 0 my dove, thou art in the clefts of the rocks,
in the secret stairs 1" Stone steps lead down these hills,
where the luxuriant vine throws out its tendrils, wreath¬
ing the terraces with besyity ; while the fig, pomegranate,
and almond, growing upon the rocks, cast their dense
shade over them, forming cool retreats in their clefts, so
grateful in this sunny clime, while streams of water from
the pools above, flow down the slopes, producing perpetual
verdure. We saw numerous little rivulets which had been
turned ofl", flowing through the valleys. What a world
of beauty must have been exhibited here, when Solomon
had such a knowledge of the productions of the earth,
" from the cedars of Lebanon to the hyssop which sprang
out of the wall." We looked with admiration upon this
once consecrated ground, now so barren. The horse with
cautious footstep, can now scarcely make his way among the
rocks where the greatest monarch of earth formerly took
his pleasure-drives in stately chariots.
We passed through Bethlehem again, on our way to the
Convent of St. Saba, and enjoyed with peculiar freshness
the prospect of the country hallowed by the birth of the
Son of God. As we passed along under its massive walls,
we gave a last look at the Convent of the Nativity, clus¬
tered around with its divine associations. We wound our
THE MONASTERY OP ST. SABA.
305
way over the rough hills of Judea, whose barrenness was
relieved by flowers strewed along our wild and picturesque
pathway,
Cf)e iKonasiCtp of St. Saba.—The Wilderness of En-
gedi, with its mountain heights and rocky caverns, pre¬
sented scenery indescribably grand and desolate, having
no forest and but little vegetation. It was dotted here
and there with the sheep and goats of the wild Bedouins,
who feed their flocks among its mountain fastnesses, where
the eagle builds his eyry and spreads his wings for un¬
checked flight.
We reached the monastery (J) before night, and struck
our tents in sight of its walls. It rises from a perpen¬
dicular clifi" of rocks, on the banks of the Kedron, in a
most desolately wild and barren region. The deep, almost
inaccessible mountain gorge is of very singular formation,
the rocks running horizontally along the bank-like strata
of earth, shelving out and rising one above another.
The sides, low down, are perforated with caves, once the
cells of the ancient anchorites.
This monastery is one of the oldest in the Christian
world. " San Saba was a recluse of the sixth century,
and was instrumental in preserving union among the
churches of Palestine in opposition to Origen. He died,
and was buried, in this place where the monastery stands."
âcrnerg.—Nothing can be more bold, lofty, picturesque,
and grand than the wild passes of the mountains of Judea.
Among its strong fortresses, in the Wilderness of En-
gedi, David concealed himself in a cave against the per¬
secutions of Saul. We saw many of these caves on our
T 25
306
PALESTINE.
"way to Joi'dan and the Dead Sea. The Monastery of St.
Saba is surrounded by them, impressing the mind with an
idea of isolation which would forbid all thoughts of com¬
muning with this world any more. A branch of the
Kedron passed by our tents, and, being dry, we followed
it some distance from our camp in its winding way among
a bed of rocks with a parapet-like projecting wall, which,
in a rainy reason, must form a cataract of considerable
height.
This little glen was wild and lovely for retirement and
devotion ; and while we sat there, the sun sinking be¬
hind the cliffs, shed a halo of soft light over the scene,
tinging the skies with a glow of purple and gold blended
with azure, peculiarly calculated to awaken feelings of
calm repose and trust in God, who watches over our foot¬
steps everywhere. The stillness of the hour was broken
only by the bustling of our Arab guides and attendants,
who were preparing our meals. The vesper-bells, ringing
to call the anchorite to prayer, conspired to bring up the
Past, when the voices of God's holy prophets were heard
in the wilderness, when John the Baptist went forth, crying,
"Prepare ye the way of the Lord," and multitudes went
out from "Jerusalem, and all Judea," to be baptized of
him, "confessing their sins."
None but the wild Arabs now inhabit these regions.
We came upon several of their encampments in the val¬
leys between the mountain gorges, spread out like the
tents of Kedar. Their large flocks of sheep and goats,
which they gather around them at night, are seen in the
day, covering every green spot that is to be found. There
THE DEAD SEA.
307
were towers attached to this convent, overlooking the
abyss below. Sentinels keep watch upon them, for fear
of the hostile Arabs. No woman is allowed to enter
the precincts ; but the gentlemen of our party went in,
and were kindly treated. Forty-two monks live within
its walls.
We left this desolate region in the morning, for the
Valley of the Jordan and the Dead Sea; and never did
we behold wilder scenery than these dark, dreary glens,
mountain gorges, bold projecting rocks, and lofty preci¬
pices. The rocks are thrown up into a thousand fan¬
tastic shapes, as if rent by some terrible convulsion.
Deep caverns are perforated along their sides, which
might have served for the habitations of Christians in
times of persecution. This truly is that wonderful
country which afforded so many of the bold, beauti¬
ful, and sublime figures found in the Sacred Scriptures.
God himself has spoken here ; and this desolate region
has become silent with terror. The camps of the wild
Arabs, with their bleating flocks gathered around them
at nightfall, alone break upon its solitude. We saw two
large encampments with their black-hair tents and nume¬
rous herds of sheep and goats.
In the direction of St. Saba, upon a mountain height,
is seen a lonely mosque, called Nebbu Mousa, where, the
Moslems affirm, Moses was buried, and to whose tomb
the Turks made pilgrimages. It is said to contain a cata¬
falque, most gorgeously covered with green silk em¬
broidered with gold.
iïrf)P llfab —With dreadful apprehensions of fall-
308
PALESTINE,
ing, we rode along on a ridge so steep and rocky that it
was really frightful to look down. The view of the Dead
Sea and the Valley of the Jordan burst upon our sight
from the summit of the mountain. The prospect before
us presented a combination of colors altogether unlike
any other landscape we had seen, and was clad with a
beauty peculiarly its own. There was not a shrub or
tree to relieve the eye, and the sun shone with intense
and unclouded brightness. The placid waters of the sea
serenely blue and beautiful, were relieved by the moun¬
tains of Moab in the distance, whose bold outlines could
be discerned through the transparent mist which, con¬
cealing their rough edges, threw a magic veil over the dim
perspective.
With the profoundest awe we stood upon these silent
shores, looking upon the wave, which has been repeat¬
ing its dying cadence and funeral dirge since the destruc¬
tion of Sodom and Gomorrah, and which will continue the
mournful anthem until the sea shall give up its dead.
There is a stillness of a peculiar kind brooding over it,
like the wings of despair, which forbids the rays of hope
from brightening its rolling wave.
The waters of the sea were disagreeable to the taste;
and so buoyant, that our party, like all others who have
bathed in its wave, found themselves unable to sink
beneath the surface.
The plains over which we rode, resembled earth washed
up by the sea and dried in the sun, being full of cracks.
The heat was intense.
forban.—Reaching the hanks of the Jordan, we found
JORDAN.
309
the stream very turbid, and flowing with great rapidity.
Its banks towards the mouth are deep and precipitous,
but farther up the river, are more flat, and lined by an
impenetrable thicket of the acacia, tamarisk, willow, thorn,
oleander, wild grape, and cane,—the habitation of the
jackal and other wild animals. Of this the prophet Jere¬
miah, in his figurative language, says, " He shall come
up like a lion from the swellings of Jordan against the
habitations of the strong."
Who could stand, unmoved, and unconscious of the Past,
upon these hallowed banks, the place of so many displays
of divine power, hallowed by so many divine associations ?
Here the touch of Elijah's mantle " divided its waters
hither and thither here, he ascended to heaven in a
chariot of fire ; here, " the waters that came down from
above stood and rose up upon a heap," and " the Israel¬
ites passed over on dry ground;" but, most important of
all, here, our Savior was baptized, and the heavens
opened, and the Spirit of God, in the form of a dove,
descended and rested upon him, while a voice was heard
from above, saying, "This is my beloved Son, in whom
I am well pleased."
Tradition has marked the place of the baptism.(®) It is
in a beautiful grove, where the stream bends in a more
quiet nook, and where the pilgrims can safely bathe and
not be borne down by the rapid current. A thousand
pilgrims had just left the place, fully satisfied with their
long pilgrimage, and with having bathed in the holy
waters, and by this purifying oblation fitted themselves
for heaven.
25«
310
PALESTINE.
It was a place of solemn thought, that here the descent
of the Holy Ghost was made visible, and Christ's mission
upon earth acknowledged by heaven ; that mission, which
was to terminate in man's redemption by His sufferings
and death.
CJe lileturn.—We started from this place for Jericho,
while the sun was setting behind the lofty hills of Judea,
casting their long shadows over the interesting plains,
and veiling with subdued light, suited to the hour of deep
and holy reflection, the solitudes which the footsteps of
our Savior had impressed. We stopped at the Foun¬
tain of Elisha, called the "Diamond of the Desert;" a
beautiful spring of clear water flowing out of a rock on
the side of the mountain, from which the weary traveler
on his way from Jerusalem to the Jordan may refresh
himself. It is, in all probability, the same that was
sweetened by a divine miracle of Elisha.
From the Jordan to Jerusalem, the wilderness presents
one of the wildest and most picturesque scenes that it is
possible to imagine. The mountain passes are diflicult to
climb, and the valleys or gorges are terrific; but this
path, dreary as it is, has been trodden by patriarchs and
prophets, by Christ and his disciples. These hallowed
reminiscences of scriptural transaction, tinging them with
the hues of heavenly light, impress the soul with an un¬
earthly grandeur.
Sil^ciks.—We had an additional sheik from the Dead
Sea, and another from Jericho, to protect us from the
wild Arabs of the mountain passes. Nothing can appear
more picturesque than these sheiks of the desert, mounted
JERICHO.
311
upon their horses. They seem to skim over the ground
like birds of the air, while their turbans and shawls float
in the breeze, adding grace and beauty to their move¬
ments.
iWount of ÜTttnptaíion, overlooking the vast plains
below with a prospect which must have compassed all the
cities of this once populous valley, towered far above us.
A chapel has been buil^ upon its height, and the cells of
the anchorites are in its caves.
SfïicÎlO.—Passing through thickets of trees, we tented in
the beautiful plain of Jericho. Jericho, that great city,
which once echoed with the blast of the trumpet when
compassed about, is now a dreary waste, inhabited but by
a few Arabs. No ruins remain to tell us where it stood,
unless it be an old structure of the Middle Ages, surrounded
by a few miserable Arab huts. The site of our camp was
upon a beautiful rising knoll, near the wild and luxuriant
banks of a small stream, where the jackal finds its home,
and rends the midnight air with its hideous screams. Not
far from us was the encampment of the one thousand Greek
pilgrims, before mentioned as at Jerusalem, who had pre¬
ceded us from the river Jordan. Their white tents, with
a green one in the center for the Patriarch, were spread
out like those of a New England camp-meeting. It was
an imposing sight. At night their busy, bustling move¬
ments, and their singing, chanting, and dancing, filled
that solitude with strange and interesting sounds. They
left their encampment at night, and moved on towards
Jerusalem, with burning lights, like the hosts of Israel
of old.
312
PALESTINE.
Scrnerg.—We started in the morning, passing through
the mountain passes, the deep gorges, and ravines of the
general route of ancient days. The rocky heights, with
no shade for relief, were very oppressive from the scorch¬
ing rays of the sun. No habitations but those of the
wandering Arabs, were seen in these mountain solitudes.
We met one Arab with a sheep which had strayed from
the fold, strung across his shoulders, illustrating that
scriptural figure to which our Savior alludes, in leaving
the ninety and nine and going to seek that which was lost.
We also saw another, with a lamb unable to walk, in his
arms.
After a morning's ride in the sultry sun, our caravan
stopped to lunch "under the shadow of a great rock."
We felt the beauty of that expression in all its bearings,
"in the shadeless mountains of Palestine." While we
were eating, the sheik from the Dead Sea kneeled in front
of us at the mouth of a cave to say his prayers, bowing to
the earth and turning his scornful eye towards us with a
look of contempt.
(îiOûï) Sflnnaritan,—On the hill-side opposite, is an
old tower where tradition has fixed the site of the inn to
which the good Samaritan carried the man who fell among
thieves ; and no place could have been more appropriately
chosen for the illustration of this instructive parable; for
it is about half-way between Jericho and Jerusalem, in one
of the most dreary solitudes of the mountain. And there
are thieves enough yet remaining to illustrate the parable
more perfectly, should any traveler wander far from his
companions.
BETHANY.
iíJeti^ang.—C)
"And is this Bethany! and here abode
The favor'd family whom Jesus loved;
To whose waBBJ, humble welcome 'twas his wont,
Tracking the path "that now we pass'd along,
Oft to retire from foes and wavering friends."
This sacred place awakens the most tender memories of our
Savior, and of the family of Martha and Mary, and their
brother Lazarus whom he raised from the dead. His tra¬
ditionary grave is in a grotto upon a hill-side, reached by
a flight of steps, where a small arched room—cut in a solid
rock, with a stone flxed at the entrance—serves as a tomb.
Here we could imagine the mourning group, when Jesus
"wept in tender sympathy with woes
By his command so soon to be absorbed
In grateful jo3'. Here by his power divine
Bade Death release its prey, the untrammell'd soul
Return to earth, and give a living proof
And pledge of future immortality."
A mosque stands upon the hill above the grotto, for
Mohammedan worship. Tradition has placed the ruins
of the house of Martha and Mary in a most beautiful
spot upon the brow of a hill above the tomb of Lazarus,
overlooking the village. It is easy of access from the
Mount of Olives and must have been a lovely retreat
for domestic quietude. It is embowered in shades of
olive," fig, and almond trees growing upon its slopes.
There was a heavenly calm in the very atmosphere; the
more hallowed that here the voice of our Lord was heard
in tenderest sympathy with sorrowing friends; and here
he uttered those memorable words, which have gone out
314 PALESTINE.
to bind up the broken heart, and bid it look up to heaven :
"I am the Resurrection, and the Life: he that believeth
in me, though he were dead, yet shall he live.
Bethany is
" an humble village, few its homes
And few and poor its dwellers ; cottage roofs,
Except one simple turret, are they all !
Yet, save the neighboring city, it were hard.
If Palestine were search'd, to find a spot
On which the Christian traveler should muse
With fonder interest than Bethany."
The walks which our Savior frequented from this place to
the Mount of Olives, must have been of great freshness
and beauty when every slope was adorned with the olive,
the vine, the fig, and the lofty palm.
Who can describe the emotions that throng the soul in
such a place as this ! Here was Jesus at home in the
bosom of friends. Here was he wont to retreat from
the turmoil of Jerusalem. Here was the spot where the
multitude accompanying him in his triumphant entrance
to Jerusalem, spread their garments and palm-branches
in his way, crying, " Hosanna to the son of David !
Blessed is the King of Israel, that cometh in the name
of the Lord !"
13apííst JHIßgionarg, the Rev. Mr. Jones, from
America, treated us with true Christian politeness. At
his residence we met the afilicted widow of the American
murdered at Jaffa, whom he and his amiable wife enter¬
tained with sympathizing hospitality,—she had not then
obtained any redress from the government.
Mr. Jones accompanied us to the Jews' wailing-place,
THE JEWS.
315
and their synagogue, and gave us much information con¬
cerning that interesting people. We met at his house,
with a few individuals, for worship on Saturday, as he
belongs to the Sabbatarians.
Híftosí.—The Polish Jews are considered the most
learned, but the Spanish have the finest synagogue, and
keep it in the best order. They are said to speak the
same language as their ancestors did when driven out of
Spain by Ferdinand and Isabella. The women take no
part in worship. They have no Deborahs or Huldahs
among them now.
212äotnen.—The glory of the Jewish women, as well as
of the men, is departed, and their condition is dark and
hopeless. This Eastern world, how forbidding the moral
aspect it presents ! It was with the deepest sympathy
that we looked upon the social condition of woman, lost
to all that is noble, refined, and intellectual, in her Mo¬
hammedan paradise. A veil, thicker and darker than
that which covers her face, enwraps her soul, excluding
from her sight all that is beautiful and lovely in the
social world. She cannot be the guardian spirit to guide
the young to elevated thought, and noble aspirations for
a higher life, or to mold and fashion them to wisdom
and virtue. Nor is the Christian woman of the East
materially above her Mohammedan sister in cultivation ;
for, like the Jewess, she takes no part in public worship,
but sits, during service, in the galleries behind a screen.
^[ííEatlinfií^lacr.—At the wailing-place of Jews,
the women came clad in long white veils, kissing the
large stones as they passed along, with the most tearful
316
PALESTINE.
sympathy, under full conviction that they once belonged
to their ancient temple. The old men leaned against the
walls with their books open, mournfully chanting the
lamentations, with tears streaming from their eyes, and
bending their bodies up and down as in the very agony
of despair. Their care-worn faces, long beards, and flow¬
ing robes made a sad and melancholy scene. They looked
as though their harps were indeed hung upon the willows,
and they were ready to exclaim, in the language of the
prophet, " All joy is darkened, the music of the land is
gone, and the merry-hearted do sigh ; the mirth of the
tabret ceaseth, the noise of those who rejoice endeth, the
joy of the harp ceaseth,"
—We visited a very interesting Sunday-school,
attached to Bishop Gobat's church, where his amiable
daughter with other teachers, was engaged instructing
some Jewish girls. We heard several little girls read the
Testament in the English language, their parents, though
unconverted, suffering them to be taught.
ÜTÍje ^tussian âisiets of have a noble institu¬
tion, supported by the Prussian Government, for the re¬
lief of invalids of all nations, who receive every medical
attention. They have a school also, where the English
and Arabic languages are taught. They told us they had
some converts from Judaism, and among them an interest¬
ing little girl, who abandoned the faith, yet afterward re¬
turned, fully convinced of its truth. Their converts are
few, yet they labor on with hope that the good seed thus
sown will eventually produce an abundant harvest. The
diflicultles are great, as the converts are immediately
THE HILL OF SCOPUS.
abandoned by their parents, and left without the means
of support. Every apartment is kept scrupulously neat
and clean by these self-sacrificing Sisters of Charity.
These Sisters are not bound by the ordinary vows of celi¬
bacy. They were intelligent, courteous, and kind, and
readily showed us all their arrangements. Gathering
flowers from the holy places, they form beautiful bou¬
quets and wreaths upon paper for mementoes, from
which they derive a small income for the benefit of the
institution.
öTabe of where, tradition says, he wrote
his Lamentations, and which lies directly on the road to
Anathoth, his birthplace, is a large cavern having an
artificial entrance and several natural arches within. It
may have been improved but it looks wild and natural.
A dervish lives within, who keeps the gate and makes it a
source of profit.
Solomon's (iluarrg.—Opposite the cave, are the sub¬
terranean vaults, lately explored by travelers, from which
it is supposed many of the stones were taken to build the
*
temple. The arch of its entrance is small and filled with
rubbish, so that, although some of our party had been in,
it looked too dark and gloomy for us.
î^ill of Scopus.—This hill will ever possess a
historic and tragic interest, as being the place where
Titus encamped with his army to lay siege to Jerusalem.
We could well imagine where the glittering crest of the
helmet, the plume, the Roman eagle, and the waving
banners were seen, as the army rushed to combat. This
was the hour when Jerusalem was to be laid in heaps,
26
318
PALESTINE.
and not one stone of its glorious temple to be left upon
another !
iHount of ©libes.—We took our last walk around
Jerusalem and up the Mount of Olives in company with
a friend, who, as we sat upon a rock opposite Bethany,
read passages from the Bible suited to the place of
Christ's Ascension. We contemplated that glorious scene
when he ascended up to heaven and a cloud received
him out of the sight of his disciples, who stood gazing at
the glorious vision with wonder and astonishment !
The Bible is the Book of Palestine ; and those who
have not read it jbefore, are compelled to read it here,
for it is the only guide to the holy places. It was de¬
lightful to see the young and gifted go about with this
Holy Book, reading page after page to identify places
found in no other way.
2rf)e i^OOlS of Siloatn.—The lower pool is fed by the
stream of the upper, which flows through the hill. This
is thought by some to be the ancient Bethesda, and its
broken arches seem to answer the description of the five
porches. The pool is a lovely sheet of water, walled in,
with steps to the bottom so narrow that only one could
proceed at a time, making the complaint of the infirm
man to our Savior perfectly natural,—" One steppeth
down before me." We went down to the foot of the
upper pool and tasted its sweet waters, which were gush¬
ing forth fresh as ever, supplying the inhabitants from its
fountain.
13alnt âUîtbag.—Jerusalem was crowded with visit¬
ors, a party of seven thousand having just arrived from
THE FEAST OP THE PASSOVER.
319
the desert. There were representatives from all na¬
tions.
The Holy Sepulcher was thronged Avith pilgrims, and
every passage to its gates crowded. Their curiously-woven
palm-branches which they bore along, were to be kept
as souvenirs. It was difficult to wend our way through
such a mass of human beings. We listened, last evening,
to their devotions ; and no doubt there were many sincere
hearts among them. The music was grand, and calculated
to produce tender emotions in the hearts of those who have
ears tuned to sweet sounds; but there were too many
people and too many objects to divide the attention.
Our Savior is exhibited in the crucifixion, and in all the
varieties of his sufferings and death. The stone, which
tradition points out as the place of his embalmment, is
situated near the entrance of the door, over which are
suspended eight gilded lamps, constantly burning. All
pilgrims bow before and kiss the shrine as soon as they
enter. A stone, mounted upon a frame before the door
of the sepulcher, is said to be the identical one upon which
the angel sat. The sepulcher itself is so highly decorated,
that, admitting it to be the very tomb where our Lord lay,
its excess of ornament destroys its beauty. Every pilgrim
kisses the stones and marbles in constant succession. A
gentleman at our table, this morning, said he noticed one
bowing twenty times. Thus enter thousands daily.
dFeaSt of tf)t ^aS0Obcr.—We arose early in the
morning to meet our friend, the Rev. Mr. Jones, who was
to accompany us to see the ceremony of this memorable
feast; but, much to our regret, we did not reach the syna-
320
PALESTINE.
gogue until the first and most interesting part was over.
The temples were crowded ; and the sound of voices, in
their chantings, was like "a mighty rushing wind. The
waving of their bodies to and fro, in their devotions, was
like trees moved in a storm. All read aloud at once;
even the little boys not more than seven or eight years
old, took part, giving additional spirit and interest to the
exercises. Some of the men covered their faces with
their garments, as if in devout prayer. Before taking out
the ark with the scroll, a priest walked around, chanting ;
to which the high-priest responded from the pulpit. And
when it was borne around, the profoundest sensation was
created among them, as if light from heaven had been let
down upon them. They touched the ark with their shawls,
and then kissed them with all the fervor of devotion.
HtpatiUte.—We left Jerusalem for Damascus in com¬
pany with five Americans ; Ex. Gov. S. and lady, of New
Jersey ; Col. B. and lady, of Nashville, Tenn. ; and Mr. C.,
of Md., making, with the dragoman and attendants, tents
and baggage, and twenty horses and mules, quite a cara¬
van. The weather was fine, our health good, and our spirits
buoyant. As we passed by the Tombs of the Judges, we
halted for a hasty examination. One of them was very
large, and contained several chambers. Entering through
an arch almost filled with rubbish, we counted twenty-one
niches one above another, cut in solid rock around its
sides, similar to all ancient sepulchers. All the chambers
were fitted up in this way for the interment of the dead,
except one or two arched recesses for kings. The rocky
hills about Jerusalem are full of tombs of this character.
saül's birthplace.
321
Ascending a hill which commanded a fine view of
Jerusalem, we turned to take our last look of the place
so honored of God, and so dear to the Christian heart.
Who that had learned of the divine truths of the Son
of God in a far distant land, and had felt "the peace that
passeth understanding" which He came to give us, could
look back unmoved upon the scene of these great trans¬
actions ? Before us was Jerusalem with its temple, its domes
and towers, and its Hill of Calvary; far in the distance
arose the hills which heard the angels' songs of "Peace
on Earth and good will towards men," when first He made
Earth his home ; and nearer, the olive-crowned summit
whence He ascended, no more to dwell with us. It was
a moment of sad pleasure. Deeply grateful to have been
permitted to see with our own eyes the places He had
hallowed by His presence, we remembered it would never
be ours to see them again.
Our ride during the morning was through a desolate,
rocky country ; but every spot was marked with deep and
thrilling interest. On our left rose a hill crowned with a
mosque, called "Neby Samwil," or the Tomb of Samuel the
Prophet, near the valley of Ajalon, where Joshua was mag¬
nified in the sight of all Israel, and said, " Sun, stand thou
still upon Gibeon ; and thou, moon, in the valley of Ajalon."
Saul's ISitt^place.—Whatever the appearance of the
country, it is impossible to look upon it with indifference.
We passed a conical-shaped hill, said to be the birthplace
of Saul, first King of Israel. Apparently covered with
ruins and destitute of vegetation, it looked as dreary and
desolate as the termination of his life.
Ü 26*
322
PALESTINE.
dFountain of fHar» anU foscpi) —We stopped at a
beautiful antique fountain called El Hamareyah, or the
Fountain of Mary and Joseph. Here they are said to
have missed the child Jesus who was still in Jerusalem,
disputing with the doctors in the Temple. It was a lovely
fount of fresh water ; and many native women were wash¬
ing their clothes in its large marble cistern.
I¡3eíí)el.—Not afar off, on our right,(^") rose the lofty
hill where Jacob slept upon a pillow of stone when he saw
the ladder reaching from earth to heaven, and the
" angels of God ascending and descending on it and
where he erected an altar of stone, and anointing it with
oil, called it Bethel.
The hills and valleys-, whose vegetation was refreshing
to the sight, became more fruitful as we pursued our
route, and villages of considerable beauty began to ap¬
pear. One, upon the brow of a hill, contained a mosque
and minaret, and an oak of remarkable size, like Abra¬
ham's Terebinth. We pitched our tents in the valley of
Hamareyah, between high, precipitous hills terraced to
their very summits and planted with olives.
—The next day we entered the plain of Shi-
loh,(") surrounded by hills of great variety, where were
scattered ruins of very ancient appearance : one, called
the Mosque of Seilun, or Shiloh, is thought to have been
an ancient church. Its columns with Corinthian capitals,
lie half buried in the earth. The arch of the door was
adorned with sculptured cornice, now defaced by time
and partly worn away. Several scragged olive-trees had
grown up within its walls and around the vestibule.
SIIILOII.
323
Standing in such an isolated place, with no habitation
near its walls, it is a most interesting ruin.
Opposite, upon the slope of a lovely green hill, s^^ands
a venerable oak of ancient growth, and an inclosed
fountain, which tradition has marked as the site of the
tabernacle of Shiloh.
Here the child " Samuel ministered before the Lord."
" Moreover his mother made him a little coat, and
brought it to him from year to year, when she came up
with her husband, to offer the yearly sacrifice." If this
is not the exact place, it must be near it. Afterward,
God " forsook the tabernacle of Shiloh, the tent which
he placed among men," and now we only see in imagina¬
tion the throngs of worshipers who came here yearly.
But, though its glories have departed, the scenes that
were enacted here, come before the mind so vividly, that
the lapse of ages between us and the patriarchs, seems
shorter.
Higher up in this beautiful valley, surrounded by un¬
dulating hills, we saw some ruins which mark the site of
a fountain gushing out among the rocks, where it is sup¬
posed, that, when the daughters of Shiloh coming out to
dance at their yearly festival, the Benjaminites came out
from the vineyards, caught them and carried them off.
It is a retired spot with a verdant lawn, well suited for
amusement. A while after, we witnessed a scene which
seemed to illustrate this custom. Upon a grassy lawn
surrounded by a grove of beautiful trees, we saw two
or three hundred Mohammedan women and children
dressed in their gayest costumes, amusing themselves
324
PALESTINE.
by dancing, swinging, and other sports, in the merriest
mood.
^Jacob's 2i2¡íeU.—We alighted from our horses, and
with profound reverence approached this hallowed spot,('^)
where Jesus, wearied with his journey, once rested and
talked with the woman of Samaria who came hither to
draw water. It was clad with too many recollections of
the divinity of our Lord, to step upon its sacred precincts
without feelings of deep and tearful emotion, while the
secret whisperings of the Holy Spirit set the seal of truth
upon the heart.
What a meeting was that, of this simple, honest-minded
woman, engaged in her own humble sphere of domestic
duties, with the great and Holy One who addressed her
in language she had never heard before ! His presence
aifected her, and his conversation sank deep into her
heart. And here, too. He uttered those memorable words,
"Woman, believe me, the hour cometh when ye shall
neither in this mountain, nor yet at Jerusalem, worship
the Father. God is a Spirit, and they that worship him,
must worship him in spirit and in truth." "I know,"
she said, " when Messias cometh, he shall tell us all
things." "And Jesus saith unto her, I that speak unto
thee AM HE." The whole scene was before us. We stood
by the well where He sat overlooking the valley, which
might then have been ready for harvest, and from which
He drew the figurative expression in allusion to the
spiritual harvest. The truths which were first spoken
here, have gone out into all the world, changing its moral
aspect by that spirit-life which renovates the soul. This
SHECHEM.
325
is the ground which Jacob gave to his son Joseph ; and
this the very well from which he and his household drank.
The mouth has fallen in, and it looks like a deep cave in
the earth. Some of our party went down into it several
feet, but saw no water.
iïlovint —Just before us, with its rocky brow,
full of recollections of the patriarchs, is the place where
the Samaritans worshiped. We rode to the mosque
which covers the reputed tomb of Joseph, whose whitened
dome was visible to our sight.
—We passed through Nablous, or the city of
Shechem,(^^) with its crowded bazaars filled with the pro¬
ducts of the Oriental world. The descendants of the an¬
cient Samaritans are still found there, with a few wor¬
shipers at their synagogue.
We camped outside the city walls, in a garden spot,
amidst groves of olives, with Mount Gerizira, crowned with
its ruined temple on one side, and the hoary head of Mount
Ebal on the other. A clear stream of water was flowing
down its slope among fruitful fields, where the fig, pome¬
granate, vine, apricot, almond, and various other nuts,
with tropical fruits, grew in rich abundance, justifying
the figurative speech of Jotham when he addressed the
people upon Mount Gerizim relative to a ruler to govern
them, and illustrated it by these familiar objects. It
was a rich country which Jacob saw in his prophetic
vision, when blessing his sons. " Joseph is a fruitful
vine, whose branches run over the wall."
The morning we left, our tents were thronged with
lepers, the most pitiful beggars in the world, and whom
326
PALESTINE.
our party found to be thieves as well ; for they stole two
guns from our Arabs. Our ride was through a valley
of romantic beauty, among streams of water and or¬
chards of fruit-trees in full bloom.
Sebasto, tfic ancifnt Samaria.—Sobaste is the ancient
Samaria of the Bible, which Omri bought of Shemer "for
two talents of silver, and built on the hill, and called the
name of the city which he built after the name of Shemer,
owner of the hill." At a distance the ruins, with their
marble columns, appeared like temples overgrown with
trees. As we approached nearer and the objects became
more distinct, our admiration was increased by the relics
of architectural grandeur which crowned its heights. The
ruins of the Church of St. John the Baptist, where tra¬
dition says he was buried, stand out in bold relief from
projecting rocks. It occupies a commanding eminence,
with its massive but crumbling walls inclosing a mosque
of modern date ; portions of its ruins, shooting high up
like broken shafts, add beauty to the picturesque scene.
We rode up the steep, rocky pathway through an Arab
village, whose rude huts were like caves and dens of the
earth, around the beautiful environs of this once magnifi¬
cent city, the palatial residence of Omri, king of Israel.
Herod the Tetrarch also dwelt here and beautified the
city with temples, splendid palaces, and a marble colon¬
nade, which formed an avenue to the top of the hill. The
columns are still seen ; some of them erect, but half buried
in the earth ; others fallen. No place could have been
better chosen for the display of architectural grandeur.
JENIN. 327
for which Herod had acquired a taste by his association
with Roman princes.
" There's not a wind but whispers of thy name,
And not a flower that sleeps beneath the moon,
But in its hues of fragrance tells a tale
Of thee" Samaria,—
the beautiful ! the once glorious city !—the seat of kings
who reveled in the luxury of courts and palaces once
desecrated by that huge temple of Baal, and, in later
days, by heathen divinities of Roman worship. We
may have stood upon the very spot where their tem¬
ples rose amidst groves of trees, to shade their mys¬
terious rites. A wide terraced lawn opens upon one
side ; above, a mountain gorge or valley presents several
white columns standing in isolated grandeur, inviting
fancy to rebuild again their mighty temple. Perhaps
even here the temple of Baal stood, which was destroyed
by Jehu. The prospect from these terraced heights is
most commanding. The Mediterranean Sea, the plains
of Sharon, the rich valley with the olive, clustering vine,
and feathery palm, meeting the eye, filled out the pic¬
ture in its former glory. It was a marked spot, where
nature had lavished her best gifts. "Detached from the
maritime coast," kings could revel in luxury with undis¬
turbed repose. The beauty of Samaria in the days of its
prosperity, must have been next to that of Tirsah, where
Omri reigned six years before he built his royal palace
upon these heights. We wound our way down the moun¬
tain gorges and soon lost sight of all its royal attractions.
—the En-gammin of the Bible. We encamped
328
PALESTINE.
before this citj,(") built upon a terraced hill among the
rocks, near the plains of Esdraelon. In the foreground,
a beautiful mosque with its minaret and swelling domes,
relieved by the towering palm, added beauty to the pic¬
turesque scene. The city was swarming with inhabitants,
many of whom, of forbidding aspect, gathered around our
tents, crying for bucksheesh. They appeared so much like
thieves that our dragoman, and undoubtedly with good
reason, kept constant watch upon them.
îSSbraclOll.—The next day we entered the interesting
Valley of Esdraelon,('®) where so many events of scrip¬
tural history have transpired. It was a wide and lovely
plain, but thickly dotted with tents of the Bedouins who
had large encampments along our route. The fierce-look¬
ing sheiks occasionally rode up to our caravan, with their
long lances and a gun upon their shoulders, talked with
our dragoman, and, scanning us with an eye of scrutiny,
rode off with unrivaled fleetness upon their Arab steeds.
These sheiks are of noble appearance, fine symmetrical
form, but of untamed spirit and thievish propensity. The
contour of their faces is altogether of a Jewish character,
and tells their origin.
There is not a spot in all the plains of Esdraelon but is
hallowed by scriptural reminiscences. In the distance is
Mount Tabor,('®) in isolated but lofty grandeur, the Lesser
Hermon, and the ridge which terminates in the promon¬
tory of Mount Carmel ; before us the Plains of Jezreel,(^^)
with the ruins of Endor upon its hills, which once contained
the palace of Ahab and Jezebel; the village of Nain,('®)
clustering beneath the hills,—imprinted upon the memory
NAZARETH.
331
of childhood from the touching story of the widow's son
carried out of the gates of the city upon his bier, whom
Christ met and raised from the dead. All these valleys,
hills, and mountains echo with the pathetic songs of the
prophets and the history of the kings of Israel. Here,
in Gilboa, Saul and his sons were slain; here, in Ziklag,
David poured forth his lamentation, " How are the mighty
fallen in the midst of the battle ! 0 Jonathan, thou wast
slain in thine high places!"
iáafatcíí).—We ascended a steep and rocky hill, to
reach the village of Nazareth, from whose height we had
a beautiful prospect of the whole plain below, verdant as a
garden. Along the pathways of this lovely village nes¬
tled on a verdant slope, the Savior had often strayed and
rested his eye upon the same scenes which now met our
eyes, the same hills and vales, and Tabor in the distance.
But now, also, the mosque and minaret towering away
above us, and the Convent of the Annunciation with its
heavy walls, met our sight. We tented in a beautiful
green spot near Mary's Fountain; and soon after our
arrival visited the church of the convent built over the
traditional grotto of Mary. We were conducted down a
flight of steps to a chapel adorned with paintings and
burning lights, like all the holy places. The grotto is ex¬
tensive; and the kitchen, cut out of solid rock, is
looked upon with reverential awe as the identical place
of their domestic avocations. Another grotto called
Joseph's Workshop, in another part of the village, is
fitted up with an altar for worship, and adorned with
paintings.
2.
332
PALESTINE.
On the Sabbath, after their church ceremonies, our
encampment was surrounded by women and children, who
assembled in groups upon the sloping hills, singing and
dancing in circles. They were dressed in gay Oriental
style, but their veils were thrown back, exhibiting fine
faces with lustrous black eyes. The children were very
beautiful, notwithstanding their eyes were stained with
kohl, and their fingers tinged with henna,—a practice
which is observed among the women of the East, Christian
as well as Mohammedan. The caps of the children were
strung with coin, constituting all their wealth. They ap¬
peared delighted to have us notice them.
After the women disappeared, a long company of men
came down from the Greek convent, singing, dancing,
and clapping their hands in an ecstasy of enjoyment.
Two-thirds of the inhabitants are Christians.
On Saturday night one of our horses was stolen, and
our tents were robbed by the Arabs. I lost all of my
baggage. The English Consul, an intelligent and accom¬
plished gentleman, used every effort to detect the thieves
who had robbed us, sending criers through the village
and offering a reward for the articles stolen, but to no
effect. The government is weak and feeble, and thieves
go undetected.
A rain set in on Sunday night, and we were compelled
to take lodgings in the Latin convent, where we were
treated with great hospitality. Here we met a party of
most intelligent travelers going out to witness a mar¬
riage ceremony and a tilting-match with lance and
sword, among the Bedouin tribes. This Moslem country
CANA OP GALILEE.
333
must fall into other hands if ever restored to prosperity
or civilization. There is little hope for it, as it now is.
We left Nazareth in the morning, on our way to Da¬
mascus, with a clear sky and cheering prospects. The
hills were glittering with the fresh drops of rain
" On herb and flower,"
and the sun shining most gloriously upon the surround¬
ing hills, giving beauty to the variegated scene upon
which our Savior in his childhood and youth, gazed with
delight. The lofty brow of Mount Tabor radiant with
the freshness of verdure and covered with wild flowers
of every hue, burst upon our sight as we ascended the
hills. We saw Mount Carmel, too, in the distance, with
other peaks along its range, standing out in bold relief.
We wound around the hills of Nazareth, looked for the
last time upon the little city honored by the Son of God
in the days of his incarnation, grateful that we had seen
the place of the Savior's early years. So many hallowed
and tender associations came thronging upon our memory,
that our hearts were full almost to overflowing.
(iCana of (üSalilee,—Passing through the village of Cana
of Galilee,(^®) where Jesus at the marriage feast turned
the water into wine, we saw a lovely fountain near the
city, which is supposed to be the same from which the
water was taken.
A large valley rich in natural soil, but neglected like
the rest of Palestine, opened before us. A few fields of
grain were waving in the wind, and we saw, in many
places, people gathering the tares from among the wheat
334
PALESTINE.
before harvest. One is said to be the field through
which the disciples passed with Jesus on the Sabbath,
when reproved by the Jews for plucking the ears on that
holy day.
ÎTijr ifflount of 1öcatiiU"Öe0(^'') a high, conical-shaped
hill, rose before us, presenting to our contemplations a
scene equally of physical and moral grandeur. The
mind expanded to grasp the truths contained in those un¬
approachable discourses. No place could have been
better suited for a multitude to listen to his voice. It is
a lovely solitude, in sight of the Sea of Galilee, em¬
bosomed among the green hills, with the most command¬
ing prospects around. Col. B. sat down upon a rock
carpeted with the greensward and richly embroidered
with wild flowers, and read Christ's Sermon on the
Mount.
We rode down the sloping hill towards Tiberias, taking
our course along the shore of the sea to the warm
spring, the white dome erected over which had been seen
at some distance. Many invalids were sitting along its
galleries ; others were bathing in its fountain which sent
up a steam so hot that we could inhale its atmosphere but
for a few moments. The waters of the lake were very
clear, and the music of its wave over the pebbly shore
was in harmony with the scene. Along the coast were
scattered broken columns and foundations of palaces,
which, in the days of Ilerod, must have adorned these
eligible sites.
Entering within the heavy walls of the city
of Tiberias,(^') through an arched gate, we tented at night
TIBERIAS.
335
near the shore, in a large court behind the ruins of an
ancient, gloomy, and desolate castle, once a strong
fortress. Upon a high clifi" near it, stood a lonely tower,
which we ascended with difficulty, obtaining a fine view
of the sea where Jesus came to his disciples " in the
fourth watch of the night," "walking on the sea." The
lake was calm and still, without the rippling of an oar or
the motion of a boat to break its mirrored surface. How
changed the scene from that eighteen hundred years ago,
when the disciples were called from their nets to become
fishers of men ! Miserable Arab huts amid ruined walls
and fallen towers, occupy the sites of palaces, and deso¬
lation is on every hand.
On the morning of our departure, we took our seats
upon a rock to watch the rising sun over the mountain-
peaks beyond the sea. Mount Hermon with its snow-
wreathed brow kindling into a blaze by the rays of the
sun reflected upon it, stood in sublime grandeur. The
stillness which reigned, was eloquent of the changes time
had wrought.
On departing, we emerged into the plain, coming in
sight of a most miserable village on a slope, occupying
the site of Magdala, the reputed home of Mary Magda¬
lene. The wide plains of Genesareth were spread out
before us, rank with vegetation and embroidered with a
robe of wild flowers, thorns, and bushes. The oleander
fringed the borders of the lake in primitive beauty,
wreathing the harp of nature's wildness where every
leaf was strung harmonious to the music of the breeze
and the rippling of the wave.
27*
336
PALESTINE.
"All through the summer's night
Those blossoms red and white
Spread their soft breasts,"
to adorn these sacred shores, where once was heard the
voice of Jesus, "who spake as man never spake." These
plains watered by a multitude of streams, have a tropical
growth.
We wended our way along the shores, through an
almost impenetrable thicket of thorns reaching to our
saddles, past an old caravansary upon a sloping hill, to
some ruined walls on a point of land jutting out into the
sea, probably the site of one of the former lake villages.
Back from the shore, in a thicket of thorns, lay some
broken cornices and sculptured columns of white marble.
Farther on, we saw the ruins of an apparent aqueduct
and Roman cistern, still massive and strong.
(Dur route was over bleak and forbidding hills, most
tedious in ascent, without the relief of a tree to shade us
from the heat of the sun, except one,—a small, ancient
evergreen oak, under which we took shelter to eat our
lunch. We passed over much ground, by ascending hills ;
but the distance when we looked back appeared but little.
We came down upon the romantic valley of Safed, whose
ruins we saw upon the summit of a hill at considerable
distance. This valley was a great relief, for it was flowing
with streams of water, and abounded in gardens where
the olive and other productions peculiar to the East, were
growing in rich abundance. The almond-trees, large and
most beautifully green, were loaded with fruit, though as
yet quite small. The mountain-gorges were terrific : we
SAFED.
337
went down some places so steep that the party were obliged
to leave their horses and walk. But wild and romantic as
the region appeared, the valleys were clothed with
beauty.
âaifti.—Here, in Safed,f^) the Sea of Galilee is seen
as though it were close by, although we had been all
day climbing hills and crossing valleys to reach it. We
tented at this place and eax'ly in the morning the
women from the city came down to the fountain, with
their empty pitchers on their heads, so like patriarchal
custom, that we were struck with the scene. We counted
the veiled women and girls in this simple employment,
until lost in the multitude. Upon the cliiFs of the moun¬
tain, are the ruins of a castle destroyed by an earthquake,
which command one of the most magnificent views of
the whole country below, the sea, Tiberias, and the moun¬
tains beyond. It has been thought Safed is the "city set
on a hill" alluded to in the parable.
The beautiful snow-crowned Hermon has been in sight
all day. Our ride has been over precipitous hills, as fright¬
ful as any before trodden, and among scenes of peculiar
aspect in bold and barren cliifs. We are now in a valley,
sitting in a grotto, near which we camp for the night, and
have felt for some hours the force and beauty of the
figure of the shadow of a great rock in a weary land.
Here are apartments for horses in case of necessity, and
a complete protection from rain in a storm. Before we
reached here, we met a caravan of about a hundred
Druses, from Mount Lebanon, going down to Tiberias to
enjoy the hot baths. They were all well dressed, women
338
PALESTINE.
veiled to the eyes, and the men well armed. Tiberias
is their Saratoga.
îLafec Hflcroin.—On the plain before us(^) lies Lake
Merom, through which the Jordan passes ; and towering
away on the left, is Mount Hermon, over whose height
we saw the sun rise in grandeur, casting his rays over
this valley of Naphtali, once blooming in beauty, in whose
rich luxuriance the tribes of Israel reveled, now desolate
and dreary, where the wandering Bedouin pitches his tent
and occupies the ground.
We started this morning for the plains where Joshua
slew all the kings and took possession of the land "even
from the Mount Halek, that goeth up to Seir, even unto
Baal-gad, in the valley of Lebanon under Mount Her¬
mon." " So Joshua came, and all the people of war with
him, against them by the waters of Merom, suddenly :
and they fell upon them." "And when all these kings
were met together, they came and pitched together at the
waters of Merom, to fight against Israel." Here Joshua
conquered their armies, " houghed their horses and
burned their chariots with fire." The grounds were
favorable for the mighty armies, the plains were so wide
and extensive ; and the circuitous route, winding around
among the hills, was well calculated for a sudden rush
upon their enemies.
The lake and its tributary streams now form one of the
most interesting localities. A large encampment of the
Bedouins, formed a contrast to some of the other tribes
we had seen. Their houses were built of cane, like
basket-work or bee-hives, giving them a novel appearance
DAN—CiESAREA PHILIPPI.
339
in this wild country. Immense herds of their buffalo
were feeding in the valleys and wallowing in the pools
of water like the hippopotamus. Hundreds of them in
a drove, were watched by herdsmen. One sat upon a
bank with a reed, making a rude kind of music, character¬
istic of their race. Some arable land is cultivated with
grain ; but most of it is pasturage for their very numerous
cattle. We attempted to ford the Jordan, but the stream
was too deep and rapid ; and we found a bridge higher
up, built of stone.
10an.—Crossing the Jordan, we reached a little hill¬
side, a lovely, verdant spot, with trees most grateful to
the sight, said to be the site of the city of Dan.(^^) Here
we lunched and refreshed ourselves with the cool breezes
under the oaks, among flowering shrubs. The air was
fragrant with the wild flowers which covered the small
trees like wreaths of snow. This beautiful slope was
covered with the oak and ilex of the richest verdure.
Upon its height once stood the citadel of Dan overlook¬
ing fertile valleys surrounded by the snowy summits of
Herraon.
(ffœsatea ^^ílippi.—We soon approached the borders
of Caesarea Philippi,^®) of Scripture memory, situated in
a most picturesque region, now called Banias, an adulter¬
ation of its Greek name, Panias.
Our tents were in a garden of olives opposite the city,
in full view of its ruins. This strangely wild scenery
was tinged with the warm flush of hallowed recollections.
Jesus, perhaps, had been here, and his footsteps had
pressed the very soil upon which we trod ; for his wan-
340
PALESTINE.
derings were traced to the villages round about Caesarea
Philippi.
3ri)e ®;roííO.—We found our way to the grotto through
a narrow, rugged path, lined with trees, rocks, and water¬
courses. It is a majestic rock, which rises perpendicularly
one hundred and seventy-five feet; beneath it, within a
natural arch, rises a fountain, like a deep pool, which
seeks an outlet upon the sloping hill, where the waters
gush forth and rush down in a clear stream of consider¬
able width, uniting with the river Dan, and forming one of
the principal sources of the Jordan.
The perpendicular side of this grotto with its arched
recesses designed for statues, and the sculptured shell
and cornices, has the appearance of a temple. In one
place, a Greek inscription is seen ; and higher up, the name
of Agrippa is carved upon its surface. This grotto is sup¬
posed to have been first dedicated to the god Pan by the
Greeks, and afterward to the Roman divinities by Herod
who built a temple of marble near the top of this cliff, in
honor of Augustus. This is said to be the only place
within the precincts of Palestine where the Greeks placed
their oracles of divinity. And a more appropriate spot
in the wilds of nature for their mysterious rites, could
hardly have been found. This bold, majestic rock in
the deep green wood of the mountain fastness,—the dark
pool beneath,—the gushing streams of the Jordan,—the
towering mountains of Hermon above,—combine to im¬
press the mind with that awe which outward objects are
sure to inspire. It was difiicult to climb over the rocks
and rubbish which had been accumulatincr around this
O
Til ; DRUSES.
3tl
grotto for centuries, a j art of which is so nearly buried
that only some corners of the niches are visible. We
ascended a path on the slope to the terrace, where stand
the ruins of a beautiful temple, and enjoyed from its
portico one of the most commanding views of the ruined
city and its romantic environs.
©ruses.— It was a fête-day among the Druses
who inhabit a village built amid its ruins. About a
hundred men and women, dressed in their holiday cos¬
tumes, had assembled to enjoy their sports at the temple.
The women, in groups by themselves, were veiled, and
took no part in the performances. Nine of the men were
locked together in a dance resembling the polka, moving
in a circle and keeping time to the music of a reed, upon
which a young man was playing a wild mountain air.
This novel scene was deeply interesting, and in harmony
with the place. We descended from this romantic height,
and rode among ruins of villas, temples, and palaces,
whose fragments lay scattered in the water.
Passing through a massive archway leading to a bridge
over the river Dan, we saw a very interesting ruin com¬
posed of hewn stone and earth, several feet high. Upon
its top and sides large trees had taken root ; and near
its base is a beautiful waterfall overhung with myrtle and
bushes, below which the stream looses itself amid trees
and shrubs. We forded a stream on our way back, near
the ruins of a bridge consisting of large stones and blocks
of marble buried in the water, and crossed a ravine upon
the fragments of an arch which looked like a wide aque¬
duct of hewn stone. We left this place in the morning.
342
PALESTINE.
but not without taking a view of the wild scenery in this
bosom of Mount Hermon, and the ruins of a large castle
which crowns a mountain ridge towering many feet above
the grotto. This ruin is said to be the largest in the
East, and is supposed to have been built by the Saracens.
Its walls are seen at a distance, covering a wide space of
ground. Riding through one of the most beautiful groves
of oak, with a carpet of soft greensward enameled with
flowers, we looked out upon the rich and beautiful valley
which was once occupied by the tribe of Dan, where now
the voice of the wild Arab alone is heard. We soon bade
adieu to the land of Palestine, for the city of Hasbeyia, a
large and flourishing settlement. The mountain-gorges
were bold and precipitous, and we wound our way down
in a zigzag course.
(Sïiccian Crmplr.—We came upon the site of a Grecian
temple, near a little village, said to be "the most perfect
in its design and style of architecture of any in this part
of the world." One wall, composed of very large and
massive stones, is still standing ; the cornice is broken,
but the corners retain their pilasters and Ionic capitals.
The inside is broken, but its niches retain the artistic
finish of the Roman. It is situated in a field amid olive-
trees, on the top of a hill, where nothing corresponds
with its character, unless it be the bold aspect of nature.
It numbers back thousands of years,—its history, date,
and object being alike unknown. It is a beautiful speci¬
men of antiquated workmanship, bearing unmistakable
marks of refinement and taste.
îtîaôbfgia, situated in a valley(^'') among hills seven
DRUSE TEMPLES.
343
hundred feet high, terraced almost to the top, is a singular
place even for the Eastern world. The roofs of the houses
are covered with earth, and the walls are of stone. It is
one of the most respectable places we had seen. The in¬
habitants are composed of Druses, Roman Catholics, and
Greeks. The Druses, numbering about three thousand, is
the largest sect. There is an English church, an American
missionary establishment with a school, a mosque, and the
palace of an emir. The country around is very fertile, at
least within the environs of this place. The people were
well dressed, good-looking, and amiable ; but as soon as
our tents were struck in the valley, we were surrounded
by crowds, who, from idle curiosity, rushed into the tents
as if they had nothing else to do. Their desire to see
how Europeans dress, and to examine their clothes, an¬
noyed us so much that we had to drive them away.
Riding to the other source of the Jordan, in Hasbeyia,
we found it a beautiful, clear spring, bursting from under
a rock over which grows an oak-tree. The whole country
through which we passed, was romantic in the highest
degree. We had our tents struck the night following in
a valley by a beautiful stream of water, near some an¬
cient ruins.
JBruSC CcmpleS.—In the morning we procured a guide
to visit the Druse temple of worship, and see the priests.
Their buildings are upon the brow of the hill, in a cluster
by themselves. There was nothing about any of these
houses which looked like a place of worship, but we were
told that the one which we entered, a low, mean-looking
room, without the least appearance of any thing designed
28
344
rALESTINB.
for such a purpose, was a place of prayer. More than a
dozen priests live in this sacred seclusion: some marry,
but most of the number are single. Their houses of
devotion are called "Holowes," and their priests " Ock-
als." The houses are terraced, with earth upon the top,
and have steps upon the outside.
The priests appeared pleased with our coming, treating
us with kindness, and being anxious we should stay to
dinner ; and when we declined, insisted upon our eating
with them. They spread a straw mat under an oak-tree,
and brought figs, dates, nuts, honey, and sweet-meats to
refresh us, a kindness we could not refuse.
JBtUSf 3^HÍ0ÍCít.—This peculiar sect of Mohammed¬
ans, numbering between sixty and seventy thousand, live
chiefly upon Mount Libanus and Anti-Libanus, and in
the intervening valley. Though a branch of the Mos¬
lems, yet they have a religion and a theological system
peculiarly their own. It is a radical principle that their
religious doctrines are not to be communicated to any
but of their own faith ; and it is not, therefore, easy to
gather up their belief, or from it, to draw any code of
laws or morals.
The sect was founded about the year 1000 A.D., by
a Mohammedan named Hamsa, and named after Drusi,
a preacher of the new doctrines. The Druses, however,
reject this appellation and call themselves Unitarians.
Their belief may be stated somewhat as follows :
I. Concerning God: That he is one, supreme, incom¬
prehensible, and invisible ; that he cannot be made known
to man but by some incarnate manifestation ; that these
DKUSE RELIGION.
345
incarnations have been frequent, the last of which was in
the person of Hakem, who intrusted the guardianship of
the faithful to a certain number of ministers till his
return. These ministers are also somewhat divine, and
to them, are committed many important affairs pertaining
both to this and the future world.
II. Concerning man : That the souls were all made at
the first, and transmigrate from one human body to an¬
other,—never into the bodies of beasts : consequently the
number of individuals never increases or diminishes, one
tribe or nation losing what another gains ; that the soul
is a free agent, and is punished by being returned to a
lower caste of society, and rewarded by a higher : that,
at last, all will be judged, and the good be absorbed in
the being of God, the others destroyed.
III. Concerning worship and morals. The writings of
Hamsa are held sacred, as the last revelation to be made
till another manifestation : these writings are kept secret.
They have Seven Commandments :
First: To speak the truth to the faithful,—truth to
others is not incumbent :
Second : To help one another :
Third : To renounce all other religions :
Fourth : Exclusion from infidels :
Fifth : The belief that God is one :
Sixth : To be satisfied with God's acts :
Seventh : To be resigned to His will.
Besides these, there are many specifications of sins,
among which are theft, murder, cruelty, and covetousness ;
and among the virtues are mercy, honesty, and meekness.
34Ö
PALESTINE.
Their houses of worship are wanting in all that may
give the appearance of sanctity or elegance. Their
priests are not a distinct class, but are persons of either
sex, chosen for the oflSce on account of their worth and
probity, and,having no salary, are little more than readers
in the meetings, who read either from their own books, the
Koran, or even the Christian Scriptures.
The social relations of the Druses are of a much higher
rank than is usual in the East. Polygamy is not tole¬
rated ; and the rights of females in matrimony and pro¬
perty, are respected. They also have schools for children
of both sexes. They regard no day as Sabbath, but hold
their meetings regularly every Thursday evening.
CHAPTER XVII.
SYRIA.
JBantaSCUS.—Last evening we arrived at this ancient
Oriental city, after riding all day through a valley ex¬
cessively warm and tedious, although Mount Hermon,
with its summits wreathed with snow, was on our left all
the way. As we advanced toward the city, its domes
and minarets were seen embosomed amidst groves of
evergreen beauty. The soil appeared fertile, vineyards,
orchards of apricots, almonds, figs, and a variety of other
fruits, abounding in rich luxuriance.
The surface of the earth surrounding the mountains, is
a perfect level, watered by many streams. The Barada,
a beautiful and lovely stream, passes through a gorge,
between two rugged-looking hills, making the valley which
surrounds the city a perfect garden filled with sweet odors
of fruits and flowers.
This city existed in the days of Abraham. Its rivers
are of peculiar interest, from Naaman's reference to them
in his reply to the messenger sent by Elisha who had
commanded him to bathe in the Jordan seven times, for
the cure of the leprosy:—"Are not Abana and Pharpar,
rivers of Damascus, better than all the waters of Israel?"
That which interested us the most, as we drew near
2S« 347
348
SYRIA.
Damascus, was the place of the conversion of St. Paul,
where the glory of divine power was manifested, "in a
light from heaven, above the brightness of the sun."
And where he " heard a voice," saying, " Saul, Saul,
why persecutest thou me ?" Truly this event, which
transpired eighteen hundred years ago, forms the chief at¬
traction of Damascus, and invests it with the most thrill¬
ing interest. Who could look upon a place hallowed with
these recollections, and not feel deep emotions stirring
within the heart ? Those who feel indifferent, must be
insensible to àll that God has done for the salvation of
the world.
There are no ruins about the city except a wall, which
has the appearance, and is said to be, of high antiquity.
There is a house upon it, with windows toward the coun¬
try, the same, tradition says, from which St. Paul was let
down, to escape from the Jews who sought to kill him.
We visited the house of Ananias, reputed to be the
one at which Paul stayed after his miraculous conversion.
We went down several steps into vaulted chambers with
artificial lights, where we saw rooms fitted up like a
chapel, with an altar and a picture of the Virgin Mary
and the child Jesus.
At the termination of the street, outside the city gate,
they fix the site of the miraculous conversion; but the
place is occasionally changed.
We reached Damascus at the feast of Ramazan, or
rather the fast and feast, for the Mohammedans neither
eat, drink coffee, nor smoke during the day, but at night
they enjoy all.
MOSQUE.
349
"Just at this season Ramazan's fast
Through the long day its penance did maintain ;
But when the lingering twilight hour was past,
Revel and feast assumed the rule again :
Now all was bustle, and the menial train
Prepared and spread the plenteous board within ;
The vacant gallery now seem'd made in vain.
But from the chambers came the mingling din.
As page and slave anon were passing out and in."
We walked through many narrow streets of the city, by
beautiful temples and gardens, to its suburbs. A vast multi¬
tude of people was collected in this part of the city, which
was lighted with thousands of lamps of variegated colors.
From a coffee-house, a pyramid of them threw their rays
around with admirable effect. They were suspended also
in different forms, in fanciful colors, illuminating every
contiguous place, where tables and stalls were filled with
fruits and sweetmeats for the feast. In the temple, a
stand was erected, lighted by lamps, where priests or
official characters sat, elevated above the rest. One of
them had an instrument which produced indifferent music,
and appeared to interest all the listeners but ourselves.
They seem to have no ear for sweet sounds. Turks were
sitting quietly around, smoking the chibouque and nargh¬
ile, drinking coffee, and feasting, to make up for the pri¬
vations of the day. The feast was interesting to us only
for its novelty.
iHoSqUf.—In the morning we went to see the great
Mosque of Omoniades, said to have been a Christian church
dedicated to St. John before the Mohammedan conquest.
It is of immense size, with a large dome and towering mina¬
rets. We had a fine view of the interior, by looking
350
SYKIA.
through some broken panes of glass, from the terraced
roof of an adjoining house. It had more the appearance
of a church than a mosque. There were near two thou¬
sand Turks seated upon the floor as worshipers. A woman
standing upon another house near us, was indignant at our
presumption in looking upon that holy company at prayer.
Her violent gesticulations and vehement manner, betrayed
her feelings. Our guide, understanding her Arabic, said
she was very angry with us, for no woman is allowed to
enter or even look into this sacred place.
lda?aars.—From this place we went to the bazaars
and entered a workshop of gold and precious stones.
Ornaments of all kinds—enormous ear-rings, brooches
set with diamonds, snufiF-boxes set with pearls and dia¬
monds which were perfectly dazzling—were wrought in
this place. A great number are employed in these shops.
The bazaars are said to be superior to those of Cairo :
they are more thoroughly Oriental, having nothing Euro¬
pean about them ; but they were not full of fancy goods
at this time. The damask silk flowered with gold, for
table-covers and ottomans, was beautiful ; but, for wear¬
ing-apparel, their silks are not equal to European.
When the pilgrims return from Mecca, the bazaars are
said to be replenished. In these public resorts, all the
Eastern characteristics are represented in their different
varieties,—Turks, Armenians, Syrians, Greeks, Persians,
Egyptians, sheiks of the nomadic tribe, and hostile-look¬
ing Bedouins. The latter wear camel-hair cloaks, fastened
at the waist with leather belts, while their heads are en¬
veloped in shawls tied with camel-hair ropes. Each one
HOUSES—THE LADIES.
351
carries his lance with an air of defiance as he walks
through the city.
A Greek stayed at our hotel, who wore embroidered
crimson-velvet leggins, tunic with elegantly embroidered
sleeves of the same, and a short white kilt in folds so
thick that it stood almost in a circle just below the knee ;
the shawl was worn about his waist ; and the fez embroid¬
ered with gold, with a tassel on one side, covered his head.
His costume was very elegant and picturesque. The Al¬
banians dress somewhat in this style. Each tribe in the
East is distinguished by its costume.
Rouses.—Some of the houses in Damascus are very
beautiful, although the entrances are quite the reverse.
We visited several distinguished for their elegance. The
style of building is similar in all ; the rooms opening into
a court in the center, which is paved with mosaic in colored
marble, with different designs. Orange-trees grow along¬
side the walls, and in the center is a marble fountain. The
parlor of the second one which we visited, was superior
to all others in the richness of its furniture; the fioor
was paved with mosaic, and a fountain in a corner of the
room was reached by one high step. All of them are
built in this style. The divans and cushions wore of blue
satin embroidered with gold ; the ceilings were high, orna¬
mented with star-shaped mirrors with gilded borders ; the
walls upon the background, were set with mirrors, cov¬
ered with a filigree of gilt in various forms, making a net¬
work of gold. Each room, even to the smoking-room,
had different furniture and colors.
Habits of all these houses received us kindly;
352
SYRIA.
but, though richly they were slovenly dressed ; and with
all the gold and diamonds glittering about them, an Ame¬
rican lady, in a simple muslin dress, looks vastly better.
Some of them were pretty ; but they had that indolent,
languishing expression which looks better in painting
than in life. The eyes of the Jewesses were deeply tinged
with khol. The dark touches in the corner of the eye and
the eyebrows arched with a pencil, gave them a peculiar
look. We saw the little children with eyes stained in
this manner, which destroys instead of heightening their
beauty. The ladies walk upon wooden stilts, which lift
the foot a quarter of a yard from the ground. They do
very well in muddy streets ; but clattering upon mosaic
floors, they appear very awkward. The entire absence
of intellectual cultivation, as they appear to have no em¬
ployment but smoking, soon renders the beauty of these
Eastern ladies insipid.
at which we stayed, is as splendid as any
dwelling in Damascus, although the approach to it is
through a mean alley. It opens into a large court paved
with mosaic, having in the center a beautiful colored
marble fountain of cool, refreshing, flowing water.
Around the walls of this wide court open to the fresh air,
are orange, citron, and lemon-trees and flowering shrubs.
Among them was the famous damask rose, an indigenous
plant, in full bloom ; but we have seen roses of equal
beauty in Louisiana. A large lemon-tree shaded my
window at the second story and filled the atmosphere
with the rich perfume of its fruit and flowers. Citrons on
the tall trees opposite, were bursting with ripeness.
THE ENVIRONS.
353
The parlors, divided only by an arch with a gilded cor¬
nice on a ground of blue, were furnished with divans, the
floors inlaid with colored marble, having a fountain in the
center, over which was suspended a splendid glass chan¬
delier ornamented at the top with small mirrors set in
gilt. The walls, fifteen feet high, with double rows of
gilded cornice, were set with mirrors ornamented with
gilded filigree-work like those described above. The
blue ceiling was bordered with gilt, and the arches on the
lower floor were elaborately ornamented.
Another room, occupied by an Austrian prince, com¬
pared well with the parlors in beauty and splendor; but
there are striking contrasts in these Oriental palaces,—
some shades to these brilliant lights. Many of the streets
and houses are mean, and the walls are falling down.
We rode to a remarkable tree standing in one of the
streets, called the " plane-tree," which has the appear¬
ance of great age, its trunk being thirty feet in circum¬
ference. The sacred street through which the pilgrims
pass, and where they stop to rest on their way to Mecca,
is the widest in the city.
CfjC îEnbitonS of Damascus, which for miles around is
one continuous garden, constitute its beauty. The "Abana
and Pharpar" enrich it with their waters, which are con¬
veyed along in every direction, either in natural or artificial
courses. Such luxuriant grounds, fruit-trees, and walks
amidst them, are seen only around Damascus; and so ex¬
tensive are they, that they make in reality an earthly para¬
dise fragrant with the rose which breathes its perfume upon
the air, and the orange whose blossoms send forth their un-
354
SYRIA.
rivaled fragrance. These sylvan scenes, contrasted with
the bold, rugged cliffs which crown the barren mountains
surrounding them, heighten the beauty and freshness of
the landscape. The snow-clad summits of Hermon with
its bleak hills and rocky eminences, rise in the distance,
showing in relief for the background of the picture, a
unique coloring of a dusty brown or a reddish tinge, upon
which a thin fleecy cloud is always resting, giving light
and shade of a peculiar character. We stayed in this
lovely city only three days ; but we found some persons
80 charmed with the fascinating environs, that they had
taken houses for some time.
Damascus and its environs certainly surpass all poet¬
ical description, and it is impossible, for the most bril¬
liant imagination to paint them in colors of fancy too
vivid. It retains its Oriental position and customs, with
little or no innovation from the European world. Chris¬
tianity in its purity, is the only means by which it can
be improved and enlightened; and when woman is ele¬
vated by its renovating influence, and feels the dignity
of her social position, a change will come over the spirit
of this Eastern world, and never until then. To deco¬
rate the person with silks, gold, and diamonds, and to
eat, smoke, and sleep, seems to fill out an existence un¬
worthy of a mind destined for immortality. Her noble
faculties, designed to elevate her to the companionship of
the angels, are spent upon perishable things. If the women
of my own country, knew their superior social position over
those of all the countries of Europe, Africa, and Asia, they
would send forth songs of praise for such high and exalted
THE MOHAMMEDANS.
355
privileges, and seek to raise the standard of their useful¬
ness higher by cultivating all that is great, noble, and good,
and by contributing to the happiness of that society which
has done so much for them.
—There is a successful American missionary
station in Damascus, under the Presbyterian Board. Rev.
Dr. Porter, the talented Irish gentleman at whose house
we called and who is connected with this mission, gave us
an interesting and encouraging account of their schools.
They appear to be in a flourishing condition, with a pros¬
pect of doing much good ; but a Government so defective
as this Ottoman power, promises nothing for the future but
degradation ; and a blessing will it be to the people, when
it falls into the hands of the civilized world. The hatred
of the Mohammedans toward the Christians is proverbial.
They do not mind hurling stones or other missiles as we
pass their places of worship. A religion so suited to the
natural turpitude of the heart of man, is not easily aban¬
doned.
3ri)e Îïlof)aminr'ôan0 have their books everywhere.
They read the Koran and say their prayers in the stalls
of the bazaars, on the roadside, in market-places, upon
their boats on the river, in their shops, and in all places.
Nothing diverts them from it : they will look at you and
mutter their prayers, and keep on bowing, touching the
ground seven times with their foreheads, as a mechanical
operation which no one can disturb. Their course of edu¬
cation is exceedingly limited, being confined chiefly to
reading the Koran and a few other branches.
ÎLalJp ÎHUfntorougi).—A gentleman of our party met
w 29
356
SYRIA.
at our hotel two German counts, friends of his, and acquaint¬
ances of Lady Ellenborough, whom he went with them to
visit. After being divorced from her husband, Lord Ellen-
borough of England, and figuring in différent parts of
Europe, she had married an Arab sheik. Her portrait
was hanging among the beauties of the king's palace at
Munich. She, who was gifted with beauty, talents, and
many elegant accomplishments which adorn our sex, was
living near Damascus, with a sheik who had another wife.
Ilfabing î9aina!3CUS, we ascended a hill upon the
mountain-pass which overlooks the city and vast plains
below, commanding one of the most beautiful panoramic
views of Damascus.
The gardens along the river Barada with fruit-trees of
the richest foliage, waving fields of grain, and greensward
of the liveliest hue, were beautiful beyond description.
Little villages were nestled along its borders wherever it
had suflScient width ; and clusters of huts or walls covered
with earth, rose one above another in terraced forms, and
served as streets. Thus all these ancient villages appear
to be built. The whole scene exhibited nature full of all
the blessings of earth, bursting into fresh life. The
rivers rushing down the hills over the rocky cliffs, were
refreshing the whole valley. The domes and minarets of
Damascus rose in the midst of this Oriental paradise, like
gelns of pearl set in emeralds, reflecting shades of ex¬
quisite coloring blended with the softest dyes.
The Barada, branching off, diversifies scenery of roman¬
tic beauty, and enriches every spot where it flows. The
mountains in the distance, rising one above another, form
THE MOUNTAINS.
357
an outline, relieved by a lovely sky, giving unlimited space
to the vision between them and the city, their different
shades adding beauty and magnitude to the delightful
scene, unique in character and unrivaled in charms.
The soft blue haze upon the gardens around the city,
gave to them the delicate tinge of the sea, and made them
appear like it in reality. The bold rocky cliiïs which
crowned the mountains and hills nearer to us, were shaded
with a deep reddish brown; and far away, beyond these,
appeared ranges of a more delicate hue ; while imagina¬
tion fancied the scene beyond filled with that beauty which
nature loves to unfold in all the variety of light and shade
to captivate the soul.
This novel and charming picture left a fadeless im¬
pression upon the mind. It was Damascus,—a place re¬
nowned in scriptural history, wreathed with immortal and
undying splendor in the conversion of St. Paul, and
peculiarly honored of God by that event ; but its falling
domes and crumbling minarets proclaim the doom of Mos¬
lem power.
i!Ef)e iitïOUîlÎainS.—Losing sight of this gem of Oriental
beauty, we continued our course through terrific mountain
gorges of the most bold and romantic character, and wild
passes, precipitous and fearful. Crossing a single-arch
bridge of stone, under which a torrent was rushing with
the roar of a cataract, the mountain-gorge opened upon
the right and left in bold and lofty ledges of rock ; upon
one side, part of the way up, were tombs and broken
columns which once adorned some temple near the moun-'
tain's brow.
358
.SYRIA.
We wound around another mountain in whose sides were
a great number of arches cut in the solid rock, some of
which looked like entrances to caves. It is said by those
who have entered them, that they are chambers with
niches for the dead, similar to those at Jerusalem and
other places in the East. They are so high up the cliflFs
that they appear inaccessible ; but steps are cut in the rock
leading to their entrances. Authors • tell us that the an¬
cient capital of Abilene, called Abila, once occupying a
site near this pass, was held in veneration by the people
as being the burial-place of Abel.
We passed some very fertile spots upon the roadside,
fragrant with the blossoms of the white and red hawthorn.
Large fruit-orchards in full bloom, formed a lovely con¬
trast to the barren, rocky hills which tower above them.
The inhabitants of the little terraced villages thronged
about us to sell their eggs or chickens. Women at thirty
were marked with premature old age. Here we saw the
nose-jewel fixed in the side of the nostril, looking very
much like a gold stud. However poor and squalid they
are, their ornaments are not forgotten. They marry so
young in the East, that they have comparatively no days
of childhood and youth to develop either physical or
mental powers ; ignorance and imbecility mark their
early years.
ISalbec.—We rode up the valley between the two
mountains, Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, whose summits
were still covered with snow, although at their base
the valleys were beautifully green. We soon came in
sight of Balbec, whose imposing ruins are the moat
BALBBC—THE PORTAL.
359
magnificent monuments of architectural grandeur in the
world.
ÎCÎje Ccmplc Suit surpasses all description. It
is utterly impossible to do justice to this noble structure,
or to,the beauty and grace of the designs which adorn it.
The broken columns lying upon the ground, the frag¬
ments of sculptured cornices, and the capitals with deli¬
cately-carved frieze, are astonishing specimens of art and
skill. The colonnade in front of the building, part of
which remains, gives it an air of unequaled grandeur.
What it must have been in its glory, may be perceived
by what remains. In its ruins it surpasses all we saw
in the palaces of the Caesars, or elsewhere.
The lofty columns with beautiful Corinthian capitals,
the magnificent shafts rising sixty-two feet with a sculp¬
tured entablature of nearly four feet more, were perfectly
astonishing. Six were detached from the building, the
walls of the portico having fallen. They stand, the
monuments of greatness and strength, as models of beauty
and grace. The whole place is strewed with enormous
broken columns of granite, thrown down from the temple
by an earthquake.
Ci)? —We reached the grand portal, which is
fourteen feet six inches wide and twenty-four feet high,
by creeping up a low passage almost filled with earth and
rubbish. The elegantly sculptured wreaths of fruit and
flowers which surround its sides, are the admiration of all
Avho see them. No two leaves, buds, flowers, or clusters of
grapes are alike. There is a cornice around the top, and
a border beneath, and a wreath of flowers and grapes
29«
SYRIA.
encircles the whole. One large block at the top of the
portal with its cornice, has fallen from its original posi¬
tion, but hangs, wedged in by two blocks below, so that
it cannot escape, although it looks perilous to stand upon
the threshold beneath. Upon its surface, is caryed a
large spread eagle.
—This portal opens into a magnificent hall
with arched recesses. The lower part of the room, which
is filled with rubbish, must have had considerable depth,
judging from the square blocks of stone seen in some
places. It was difficult to find our way among these
heaps of ruins, but every step unfolded the greatness of
the original design, the perfection of its plan, and the
finish of its work. Doric capitals of immense size lie
scattered among the fragments. Courts and dilapidated
porticoes surround the building, and extend over a space
of a thousand feet in length. Large blocks with sharp
upturned edges and broken columns, aslant and upright,
make the passage so troublesome and difficult that we
needed assistance to climb up.
The western wall, rising to a level with the columns
fifty feet above the surface of the earth, is considered the
most imposing. In it are the immense stones remarked
by travelers for their size ; one sixty-four feet, one sixty-
three feet five inches, and a third sixty-three feet in
length, height thirteen feet. They are twenty feet above
the ground ; below there are seven others of the same
thickness, but smaller dimensions otherwise.
The foundations of this temple are of solid stone, fifty
iect high, to give the building an elevated and imposing
■0 38iva JO SNina
THE HALL.
363
appearance, as it is situated in a valley. Under it is an
arch of considerable height, extending the whole length
of the building, forming an underground passage, entered
by arched portals at each end. Quite a perspective of
the distance is given, standing at the entrance and look-
ing through the tunnel. It is now a habitation for do¬
mestic animals : mules and donkeys walked deliberately
in while we were there. Vaulted arches designed for
the convenience and idolatrous purposes of this massive
building, are seen on other sides, but not so extensive as
this.
Detached from the great pile, is a small circular temple
of marble, supported by Corinthian columns, with niches
between for statues, which is well worthy of admiration.
It is said to have been used for the rites of the Greek
church until a recent date.
The views of the mountain of Lebanon and the valley,
seen from this temple, present a variety of the most
pleasing objects. The valley, seven or eight miles wide
between these mountains, is exceedingly fertile : the
plains open into extensive vineyards and mulberry-
orchards where the silk-culture appears to be carried on
to a considerable extent.
The height above the sea, and the snow-wreathed
mountains of Lebanon, render the atmosphere in this
vallev many degrees colder than Damascus. We suffered
from the severity of the wind, which was very bleak and
cold in this mountainous region.
We left this place, feeling that we had seen at least
one view, of which the best descriptions fall infinitely
364
SYRIA.
short. It appears that nothing less than an earthquake
could shake thi foundations of such a massive building,
and lay its loicy columns in the dust.
îBeparture.—On our way we visited the quarry where
these massive blocks of stone were hewn. One, regularly
squared, seventy feet in length, fourteen in breadth, and
several feet high, stands there still. It was doubtless
designed for some part of the building, but was never
severed from the original rock.
We rode an hour and a half in this beautiful valley;
passing three columns standing alone in the plain with
no other fragment of ruins near. The view of Balbec,
going up this side, must have been most magnificent, pre¬
senting the temple in its finest position for exhibiting its
magnitude and grandeur.
E StOIin.—As we proceeded on our way, the wind
began to blow with great violence, followed by rain and
hail. It beat in our faces so severely that we found it
difficult to keep our horses in the path, or even to stay
mounted. We suffered severely from the cold.
—We stopped for the night at the village of
Zeleh, at a comfortable house, though it was plastered
with clay and destitute of furniture or even a pane of
glass to let in the light. The roof, like all the terraced
houses, was covered with timber and imbedded with
earth. The people, members of the Greek Church, brought
us in a furnace of coals to warm ourselves, and treated us
very kindly. Our dragoman supplied us with beds and
food, and made us comfortable.
It is almost impossible to satisfy the curiosity of these
CAKAVAN.
3t55
people. As soon as we arrived, men, women, and children
gathered around us and filled the room, annoying us so
that we were compelled to drive them away, and even
then it was diflScult to keep them out. They would bring
in their chibouques, sit down and smoke with perfect good
nature, and talk to us in Arabic, whether we understood
them or not.
We stayed at this village all the next day, on account of
the cold, and left, on the third, for a passage over Lebanon,
so difficult and dangerous in many places, that none but
horses trained to such roads could ever travel them.
The hills were blackened with caravans of mules, laden
with goods for Damascus and other places. The boxes
and trunks were piled up to such a height that it seemed
impossible for these animals carry such loads among such
rocky passes.
The snowy summits of Lebanon were still above us.
We ascended hill upon hill, with a cold and cheerless
wind like that of March, blowing in our faces, and with
no alternative but to keep on our way. We had a rough
and fearful road ; but we had become familiar with such
scenes, and encountered the difficulties with increasing
fortitude. We passed through only one snow-drift, which
was not deep.
(Earahan.—We met a large caravan of pilgrims on
their way to Mecca, among whom were the Sultan's
mother and a military escort. There were three canopies
of red and blue silk raised over the mules, upon which
the Sultana and her ladies rode ; but we did not see their
persons, as they turned ofi" in another direction. Aftei
366
SYRIA.
them, came another train of mules and servants with the
wardrohe, if we might judge by the boxes, three of which
were covered with crimson silk velvet with black feathers
upon their tops.
We stopped to lunch at a khan, a substitute for an inn,
which was roughly built of stones, and covered over with
earth, like their terraced-roof houses ; but, primitive as
these buildings look, they are needful in mountainous
regions.
Passing a military station, we met some oflScers on the
finest Arab horses we had seen. They were elegantly
dressed in the finest of cloth, and rode most gracefully.
Their barracks, built of rough stone, looked like caves in
the mountain's side. After a weary ride of eleven hours
we reached Byroot,—twenty-one days of tent life from
Jerusalem.
^gtOOi, situated upon an inclined plain, with its houses
embowered in orange-groves and surrounded by gardens,
had a fine appearance as we descended the hills toward it.
The scenery around the city is most romantic. The moun¬
tains of Lebanon with their snowy summits above the city,
range along the coast, presenting a most picturesque ap¬
pearance.
iïltssioîiatics.—Soon after our arrival, the American
missionaries made our acquaintance, and the Rev. Mr.
Ford most kindly invited us to visit them, sending a boy
with a horse to escort me, as the rest of the party de¬
clined. Their residence was in a beautiful part of the
city, among groves of evergreen. His interesting lady
conducted me to their schools. The female department
MISSIONARIES.
369
numbered thirty interesting little girls, taught by a native
teacher. They sang for me most sweetly "Happy Land"
m Arabic,—the best music I had heard for many months.
There were two rooms for boys, forty in one and thirty in
the other. The rooms were airy and very clean, the boys
well behaved and orderly, with bright, intelligent faces
and eyes beaming with joy. The teachers—all natives—
appeared deeply interested in their employment, and
kept good order.
The Presbyterian mission is very prosperous, and has
many schools scattered about the country and its minis¬
ters are faithful and efficient. Their residence is in a
delightful spot, with the schools and church contiguous.
Adjoining is a Protestant cemetery situated in a lovely
place, and ornamented, with the towering cypress-tree,
which shoots up like the pinnacle of a temple. It was a
lovely and calm place for the silent dead. There sleep
those who fell at their post in mature years ; and the
lambs of the flock, whom Jesus has taken to his bosom.
What a contrast between this and a Turkish cemetery, so
gloomy and sad, though used as a place of recreation !
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE MEDITERRANEAN AND ÖREECB.
Ucabing lösroot.—The sun was just setting as we
sailed out of the harbor, touching its disk in the dark-
blue wave tinging it with a purple light, and kindling
the snowy heights of Lebanon into a dazzling radiance.
The hills were clothed with park-like verdure, which we
were told, within a few weeks, would look like the sere
leaf of autumn, leaving scarcely a green spot. A soft
mist enveloped the hills, blending the light and shade
which had distinguished the bold outline of hill, valley,
and mountain. The white foam of our Austrian steamer
making its pathway in the deep-blue sea, combined to
heighten the picturesque until all faded in the shadow of
evening,—
" Like joys departed, never to return."
The weather was lovely,—the steamer spacious and
elegant. There were many pilgrims crowded upon the
deck, on their return from the Holy Land, but they were
kept by themselves. A German countess with her wait¬
ing-maid occupied the same cabin with us. She had
been on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and we were told had
visited, on foot, all the holy places around Jerusalem, even
to Hebron, Bethlehem, the Dead Sea, and the Jordan.
370
THE ISLAND OF CYPRUS.
371
We had one Turk on board, with his two wives, chil¬
dren, and slaves. The wives were pale and sad-looking,
with dreamy, lustrous black eyes. The children were
very pretty and engaged much of his attention, his wives
little or none.
CfjC ]E0lanli of (ttgptUS.—We reached this island the
next morning, and went on shore to view a place hal¬
lowed by memories of St. Paul, who " sailed under Cyprus
because the winds were contrary." The little city, along
the coast, excepting its Greek church, called St. Laza¬
rus, has altogether a modern aspect. This edifice, some
centuries old, is a singular structure highly ornamented
with gilt lattice-work and many pictures of saints upon
gilded ground, which the people kissed and bowed before
as they passed. It was thronged with a multitude who
came on a pilgrimage to the tomb of Lazarus. Tradition
says he was buried here. We were led down into a
grotto, and conducted into a vaulted recess below the
church, where his tomb is shown, hewed out of solid rock,
like those about Jerusalem.
Though the last of April, it was the time of harvest.
The soil along the coast looks very poor, though it is
said to be fertile, producing cotton, Cyprus wine, turpen¬
tine, oranges, figs, dates, and many tropical fruits. The
indigenous flowers which adorn the mountains, are like
those in the borders of Palestine. The hyacinth, anem¬
one, ranunculus, double and single narcissus, bloom here
in their native wildness.
Some beautiful palm-trees were seen rising above the
city from the gardens below, adding much to its beauty.
3n
372 THE MEDITERRANEAN AND GREECE.
Two hundred thousand inhabitants are said to live upon
this island. Its mountains rising in lofty grandeur, are
seen far off at sea.
Cfic $Slanb of MfjOhtS "has been celebrated from the
remotest antiquity, and was, among the states of ancient
Greece, one of the most distinguished for its commerce,
naval power, literature, and the fine arts." It is near
the coast of Asia Minor, and has a beautiful harbor. The
city of Rhodes is surrounded by a high, massive wall
with towers in good preservation. Its gothic castle or
fortress, built upon a rock jutting into the sea, gives the
city an imposing appearance. As we sailed along its
interesting shores, we thought of the colossal "statue
seventy cubits high,"—one of the Seven Wonders of the
World,—which once adorned the entrance of its harbor.
Nothing remains now to tell where it stood. The classic
and historic associations of the place, gave an additional
charm to its Oriental scenery and almost fairy beauty.
íüíie öittg rises like a spacious amphitheater upon its
sloping hills. A highly-ornamented gothic archway leads
from the quay to the town. This city, like all those in
the East, is divided into quarters ; but, unlike them in
one respect, the Jewish quarter is the best. The Greeks
dwell in the outskirts, and the Turks near the coast. In
the environs, are most beautiful villas, gardens, orange
and citron groves. We had free access to these gardens,
whose fountains, arbors, trellised vines, and flowers in
full bloom, would have been enchanting had they been
well kept. The Church of St. John has been converted
into a mosque, and the Grand Hospital into a granary.
THE ISLAND OF RHODES—THE CITY. 378
The palace of the Grand Master of St, John is occupied
by the Pasha who governs the island.
Our guide conducted us through one of the principal
streets, called "the Knights of St. John," whose aspect,
as well as name, still spoke of former days. This silent,
sequestered walk and apparently uninhabited place, threw
us eloquently back upon the Past, when that powerful
band controlled the island with undisputed sway. We
saw upon the gothic arch of one of the massive portals
the date of 1494, with their arms. They were driven out
by the Turks in 1552 ; and as a reward for their brave
resistance, their coats of arms were sufiered to remain
graven upon their walls. Here we saw many of their
armorial bearings, once belonging to the most illustrious
families of Europe. At the highest elevation of this
street, a powder-magazine once exploded, destroying
many splendid marble palaces, or temples, if we should
judge from the heaps of broken columns and sculptured
cornices scattered about the streets.
We passed through the streets and squares of the Jew¬
ish quarter, among fountains and orange-groves which
perfumed the air with the fragrance of their blossoms.
The rose from which this island took its name, is indi¬
genous, and is said to grow in the most uncultivated
places, springing from the crevices of the rock, and
WTeathing their ledges with garlands of beauty in the
wild recesses of the mountain. The laurel rose with its
brilliant coloring, adorns the banks of its mirrored
streams, while beds of myrrh shed their fragrance upon
the balmy air. The fig and carob tree grow upon its
374 THE MEDITERRANEAN AND GREECE.
sloping hills, and the vine is perfected upon its soil, pro¬
ducing a wine celebrated for its peculiarly delicate flavor.
This climate is said to be healthy,—its air salubrious
and dry. There is nothing wanting but enterprise, in¬
dustry, and a change of government, to make the island
of Rhodes a paradise. This island's being associated
with the travels of St. Paul, gives it increasing interest.
We passed in sight of Coos, so near that we could discern
the white walls or domes of the city embowered among its
green trees and gardens.
The mainland of Asia Minor was upon the right all
the way ; and so near did we approach the coast, that
with the aid of a telescope we could see its rocky ravines,
sloping hills, and grassy nooks.
^atmos.—We passed the island of Patmos in the
evening, too late to see any thing but the veil of mist in
which it was enveloped. But the very name is hallowed by
the divine associations clustering around it. Although it
is one of the most desolate, rocky islands of the Eastern
Archipelago, yet it is wreathed with gems of thought clad
with immortal beauty. Upon its barren clifls, in lonely
solitude, the Son of God revealed to the Evangelist the
glory of the New Jerusalem, in a language of figurative
beauty, surpassing all that the imagination could ever
conceive of earthly splendor. We felt that we were near
a place, not clothed with terror like Mount Sinai, but
encircled by the bow of mercy, reaching over the dark
valley of the shadow of death, and uniting the two worlds
by a pathway of light.
A convent has been built upon its height ; and there, in
SMYRNA.
37')
its solitude, the anchorite watches the hour of prayer, ush¬
ering in the dawn with his early orisons, and closing each
evening with his vesper hymn of praise and adoration.
Stngcna.—At the head of a beautiful bay, on the slope
of the mountain, rises this flourishing city crowned at
the top with the ruins of a large castle. From the
beauty of its situation, it was called by the ancients the
"queen of Anatolia," "the crown of Ionia," and "the
ornament of Asia." We were surprised to see, in this
Eastern world, such fine houses and bazaars, so highly
improved and clean. The merchants here are from differ¬
ent parts of Europe, which accounts for the different
aspect of their shops. The bazaars were filled with
goods and wares, and crowded with Oriental people. The
city is large and active, and has something of a European
aspect. The Greeks, who hold a prominent position
occupying the most beautiful quarter of the city, have
houses like palaces, with paved courts, marble fountains,
orange-groves, ¡and gardens. We saw many ladies in the
streets dressed in European style. Arriving in the after¬
noon and leaving in the morning, we had but little time
to visit the different objects of interest. We rode up
Mount Pagus, to see the famous Genoese castle built in
the time of the Crusaders, a formidable fortress with lofty
towers, and walls extending almost around the brow of
the hill. Ascending its walls by broken steps, we had a
most delightful prospect of the city and its environs, its
beautiful harbor and shipping, with its mountain scenery,
hills, and valleys. The whole city lay like a map beneath
us, with its numerous streets, residences, and public build-
37H THE MEDITERRANEAN AND GREECE.
ings. The Turkish cemetery with its cypress gloom, the
sculptured tombstones with the crescent instead of the
cross, caused strange and melancholy feelings to pass
through the soul. The river Meies, wending its way like
a silver thread through the city to the sea, is associated
with the name of Homer, whom they claim to have been
born upon its banks. Here is a cave where tradition
says he composed some of his immortal poems.
On one side of the river, our guide pointed out a place
they call Paradise ; and if luxuriant vegetation and green
trees entitle it to the name, it may well be called so.
Not far off, was another spot, more interesting to us still,
—the site of one of the seven churches of Asia, upon
which a modern church has been erected to mark the
place and fix the attention. " And unto the angel of the
church in Smyrna write. These things saith the first and
last, which was dead, and is alive ; I know thy works, and
tribulation, and poverty, but thou art rich ; and I know
the blasphemy of them which say they are Jews, and are
not, but are the synagogue of Satan." " He that hath an
ear, let him hear what the Spirit saith unto the churches:
To him that overcometh will I give to eat of the tree of
life which is in the midst of the paradise of God."
From this ruin we passed down an inclined plane above
the city, where are seen fragments of an ancient amphi¬
theater. Some broken arches and piles of stone, in a most
elevated position on one side of the mountain, stretch along
its heights at a considerable distance, overlooking the city.
In this open amphitheater, is shown the spot upon which
tradition has fixed the martyrdom of Polycarp.
SYRA.
377
How deeply affecting was the thought that, upon the
spot where we stood, thafr noble saint took his flight from
that funeral pyre which still sheds its light over the whole
Christian world ! Majesty, dignity, and grace shone like
a halo around the martyr's brow, covered with the frosts
of more than fourscore years. " A grand chariot of
state moved on with its cortège ; its head officers of
police, Herod, Irenarch, and Nicetes, his father. They
offered him a seat by their side, with every inducement to
shake his steadfastness, but all to no purpose. They im¬
plored him to pay divine honor to Caesar, and to revile
Christ. Polycarp replied, ' Eighty-and-six years have I
served him, and he never did me wrong : how then can I
now blaspheme my King, who has saved me ?' The blood¬
thirsty populace cried out, ' Burn him alive ! burn him
alive !' and the mountain echoed with their savage voices,
while they gathered fuel from every side." He stood
before them in the beauty of that wisdom and courage
which comes from above. Refusing to be bound to the
stake, he met the flames which surrounded his aged form,
calm and unmoved. He breathed forth a prayer which
opened the portals of heaven and let down upon this spot
a ray of glory which has never ceased to shine.
Leaving at evening, we were soon at sea, with favor¬
able weather and a most delightful atmosphere.
S'fiW.—We reached the island of Syros, or Syra, the
next morning, and remained the whole day anchored off
the coast in its commodious harbor, having a fine view of
the city of the same name, and the mountain scenery around
it. Old Syra is situated upon a conical-shaped hill, with
378 THE MEDITERRANEAN AND GREECE.
houses ranging one above another to its very top, which is
so small that the Church of St. George covers it entirely.
The new town extends along the coast and unites with
the other. Some of our party went on shore and saw
some traces of the old Greek city; but the walls are
scarcely visible. Every thing about the city is modern
and flourishing, and multitudes of Europeans throng the
streets and wharves. "In the Middle Ages the inhabit¬
ants retreated to the summit of this hill for security
against pirates."
This city has a central position in the .3Egean Sea, and
is fast rising into importance. Here some of our pass¬
engers took shipping for Trieste, and some for Athens. It
is said that great attention is given to education, and that
more than two thousand youths are taught in their various
schools ; and travelers are surprised to find the venerable
pages of Thucydides and Demosthenes in the hands of
girls. " Phenecydes, the instructor of Pythagoras, and
one of the earliest of the Greek philosophers who main¬
tained the immortality of the soul, was born at Syros."
Changing vessels here for Greece, we arrived at Piraeus
the next day. Carriages were standing upon the shore,
ready to convey us to the capital,—a luxury we had not
enjoyed for some months,—of which availing ourselves,
we were soon on our way to the renowned city of Athens.
The road was delightful, being planted with trees which
formed a shaded avenue of great beauty.
We felt that we were near the ancient city
which once held intellectual pre-eminence over the whole
world, and which still retains its power in beauty, taste.
TEMPLE OF JUPITER OLYMPUS.
37a
poetry, and the fine arts. Of modern Greece we had no
particular expectations, but were most agreeably dis¬
appointed in finding such a pleasant European city with
handsome houses, wide, clean streets, and a hotel with
every comfort we could desire. And, though all was
modern, it did not detract from the splendor and magnifi¬
cence of its ancient ruins which still stand out in bold
relief in their elevated positions to meet the eye wher¬
ever it turns, "lovely in their age of woe." Its monu¬
ments, though few in number, are beyond description.
They fill the mind with all that is lofty and grand in the
grasp of thought, and with all that is beautiful, refined,
and chaste in the cultivation of taste.
CfjF —We drove to the Acropolis soon after
our arrival, but did not ascend it. In the amphitheater
we saw placed in a niche a headless statue of Herodes
Atticus, which had been excavated from the ruins only a
few days. The figure, graceful in form and attitude, was
almost entire, and held in the left hand its drapery which
passed over the shoulders and around the waist, falling
in easy and graceful folds at the side, and setting off
the figure without destroying the symmetry of shape.
They were still searching among the rubbish for the head.
Ccttiple of 3ïuptt0t ©lBtnpu0.—We drove round to the
temple of Jupiter Olympus, with its fifteen Corinthian
columns still standing, fifty-five feet from the pavement
to the top, one having been blown down by a storm. There
it lies in its ancient grandeur, carefully preserved for fu¬
ture generations to see, surrounded with beautiful blocks
of marble in glorious confusion, to show what the temple
380 TIIK MEDITERRANEAN AND GREECE.
had been in its day of splendor. This temple was com¬
menced in the reign of Pisistratus, and finished in the
reign of Hadrian, six hundred and fifty years afterward.
The magnificence of the structure can only be judged by
the beauty and splendor of the ruins which surround it.
The site of this temple is in perfect harmony with the
landscape around—the Ilissus rolling along the valley
beneath, walled up on one side to a considerable height,
where we stood, and that endless variety of scenery on
all sides peculiar to Athens.
The ground around was literally covered with flowers :
we could not step without treading upon their delicate
petals. They filled the whole atmosphere with their fra¬
grance, and we appeared to walk among the
"Odors of Paradise."
They had entwined themselves among the marble columns,
wreathed the pedestals with their tiny forms, imbedded
themselves in the broken pavements, and nestled among
their crevices, breathing a sweet perfume as if sympa¬
thizing with scenes of departing glory.
íITíjí ^pRttf)tnon.—The entrance to this temple is through
the Arch of Hadrian, which is interesting only from its
antiquity. The tomb of Lysicrates, between it and the
Acropolis, is noticeable as being one of the first specimens
of Corinthian architecture. It was built the same year
that Alexander invaded Persia. The prison of Socrates
—a circular arch, bell-shaped, hewn out of a rock in the
side of a hill—was shown us, where tradition says he was
confined. There was a square chamber in one side of it,
where, our guide told us, he slept. Upon the summit of
ACROPOLIS.
381
this hill—called the Museum Hill—stands the monument
of Philopappus, and in •which stairs hewn in the rock,
and traces of the foundations of houses, still remain.
There are also some indications of ancient walls leading
down in the direction of the Ilissus,
»
Crtnple of Cfioistus.—We visited in this drive, the
temple of Theseus, still standing, and more perfect in
form than any one in Athens, and considered one of the
finest specimens of architectural beauty of the old Grecian
world. It has been shaken by an earthquake, and one of
its columns is jostled out of its perpendicular position, but
the blocks of which the shaft is composed are only shoved
a little out of place. All the columns are there ; and,
though crowned with thousands of years, at a distance it
seems to stand erect with symmetry and grace. It is iso¬
lated from all other temples, standing alone in its glory
upon a little neck of land running out from the Areopa¬
gus. Its hall is filled with fragments of statuary, relics
of art, one or two most beautifully sculptured sarcophagi,
two Apollos, and many other pieces interesting to the anti¬
quary and the artist.
^CtOpoUg.—The next day we drove to the Acropolis
again. Here the pride and glory of Athens seem to have
culminated, and around its brow is wreathed a chaplet of un¬
fading beauty, which lingers around its matchless columns
and fallen fanes. To ascend to its summit, three hundred
feet above the level of the town, was no small consider¬
ation. In some places we looked over precipitous rocks
one hundred and fifty feet high. Our minds expanded as
we approached this magnificent scene. As we stood at
382 THE MEDITERKAXEAN AND GREECE.
the foot of the staircase composed of marble steps, leading
to the portico of the Propylse, the first temple, which covers
with its wings the whole western side, and as we sat down
upon its threshold beneath the lofty columns of this gigan¬
tic temple, and looked at the vast prospect spread out before
the eye, wreathed with their historic, classic, and poetic
associations with the greatest minds that ever lived,—
"One vast -world of wonders spread around,
And all the Muse's tale seemed truly told."
Areopagus.—The visit of our party to this interesting
place was chiefly owing to the interest felt in the narrative
of St. Paul, in carrying the gospel to this most refined and
polished people. We had an acquisition to our party in the
society of Dr. Magoun and lady, from Jerusalem. He was
a physician belonging to the English Mission to the Jews,
and had been interested in it for many years. He and his
excellent and accomplished lady were devout and zealous
Christians, deeply devoted to the cause of Christ. With
deep emotion we ascended Mars' Hill by the same steps
cut in the rock, which St. Paul went up eighteen hundred
years ago. Beneath the hill was carved in a rock the form
of the cross, to point out the place where he stood to de¬
clare to that wise people the knowledge of the true God.
We took our seats upon a rock near the summit of a
hill, not far from where he must have stood, in sight of
the ruins of the same temples upon which St. Paul cast
his eye, when he said his spirit was stirred within him,
seeing the whole city given to idolatry ; while our friend,
the missionary, with much feeling, read to us the seven¬
teenth chapter of The Acts, enforcing the sublime truths
areopagus.
383
with their own simple eloquence, in the same place in
which they were first spoken. Never did the words of St.
Paul sound more eloquent.
Just above, was the Acropolis in all its glory, with the
statue of Minerva, the presiding deity whom they wor¬
shiped ; on the one side, the caves of Pan and Apollo, on the
left, the temple of Thesis, in full view ; and around him,
upon the hill, statues of heroes and statesmen. It required
but little effort of the imagination to fill out the picture so
impressive to our minds, by supposing St. Paul before us,
surrounded by the most accomplished sophists of the age,
who came to hear "what that babbler had to say."
There was a sublimity in his appeal to the understanding
of those philosophers, which we had never before felt.
"For, as I passed by, and beheld 3'our devotions, I found
an altar with this inscription. To the unknown God.
Whom, thêrefore, ye ignorantly worship, Him declare I
unto you. God, that made the world and all things there¬
in, seeing that he is Lord of heaven and earth, dwelleth
not in temples made with hands, neither is worshiped
with men's hands ; for in Him we live, and move, and
have our being : as certain also of your own poets have
said. For we are also his offspring."
How eloquent is the song of an American poetess in
the recollection of that event !—
"Greece ! hear joyful sound !
A stranger's voice upon thy sacred hill,
Whose tones shall bid the slumbering nations round
Wake with convulsive thrill.
Athenians ! gather there : he brings you words
Brighter than all your boasted lore affords.
31
384
THE MEDITERRANEAN AND GREECE.
'• He brings you news of One
Above Olympian Jove,—One in whose light
Your gods shall fade like stars before the sun.
On your bewilder'd night
That unknown God of whom you darkly dream,
In all his burning radiance shall beam."
Here, amidst this august assembly of the most refined
and accomplished scholars of the age, was delivered one of
the most eloquent sermons that ever fell from human lips.
What an audience was listening to the speech which
was to strike a sure blow to their idolatry ! Some of them
said, " We will hear thee again of this matter others
mocked, and departed from him ; but some believed, and
among them Dionysius the Areopagite, and honorable
women not a few, one of whom, named Damaris, must
have been distinguished.
We were carried to the period when he stood before
that powerful assembly, to establish Christianity in Greece
by the preaching of Jesus and the resurrection from the
dead. The fanes of the temples have fallen ; the courts
are no longer filled with orators, sages, or poets ; but the
rocks and ruins are there,—ruins once radiant with beauty,
which even now fill the world with admiration,—breathing
a solemn eloquence in their silent loneliness, more power¬
ful than words. The place and circumstances all com¬
bined to render the truths more impressive. We looked
around, and saw the judgment of God written upon the
ruins of those idolatrous temples, where refined intelli¬
gence and intellectual wisdom worshiped images made
with hands.
Before us, were the distant mountains, the sea and
THE PARTHENON.
385
straits of Salamis, the gem-like islands which stud it in
endless variety, and Greece, the ancient world of poetry.
" Thy vales of evergreen, thy hills of snow,
Proclaim thee Nature's varied favorite now."
And here Athens sits, enthronea amidst creation's
finest beauties. The little wingless temple of Victory—a
perfect gem of the kind—stands apart from the rest, and
still maintains its position. We had to ascend an inclined
plane to reach the Parthenon and the Erectheum.
—There were four temples upon the
Acropolis, of which the Parthenon occupied the highest
position. Its shafts and heaps of large blocks of Pentelic
marble, which composed its walls, lie scattered about, yet
enough remains to show its design and architectural
grandeur. Upon its pavement, in the center of the build¬
ing, a place was shown us where the statue of Minerva,
forty feet high, once stood. It was designed by Phidias,
who had the superintendence of the building, and covered
it with gold and ivory to astonish the world with its
beauty and splendor. Here, amidst the ruins of this
august temple, we had the additional pleasure of a Grecian
sunset. We could not have chosen a better time to visit
this temple, and to realize the poetical allusion so happily
expressed :—
" So sinks more lovely, ere his race is run.
Along Morea's hills the setting sun ;
Not, as in Northern climes, obscurely bright.
But one unclouded blaze of living light."
For a while these fading glories tinged the sad and beau¬
tiful ruins, passing into a soft, subdued light, fitting our
386 THE MEDITERRANEAN AND GREECE.
thougnts and feelings. To look through the portal of the
temple in the solitude of such an hour, and contemplate
the scene with its associations of the past, was a heartfelt
pleasure. We thought of this edifice as it once stood,
adorned by the creative genius of Phidias, whose artistic
skill has never been surpassed, and whose finishing touch
has never been equaled. And what master-spirits have
assembled in these halls !—philosophers, heroes, poets,
orators, historians, and statesmen, who have filled the
world with their learning and wisdom,—whose very names
call up recollections of the past full of all that is great in
the intellectual world, and inspiring to the human heart.
iïri)e Ctlttple of ÎSrtCti)Cum, at a little distance from
the Parthenon, is an entirely different structure. We
approached it first by a portico, the roof of which is sus¬
tained by columns or caryatides, whose shafts represent
young maidens fully draped. These statues have been
much injured by time, but are of graceful proportions
still. One of them has been remodeled, and the face, in
repose, with a noble expansion of brow and intellectual
expression, appears exceedingly beautiful. This was an
early religious sanctuary connected with the legends of
Attica. It differs widely in its structure from the rest, and
its ruins are not as imposing as the Propylse and Parthe¬
non, but it is equally impressive from its association with
their idolatrous religion, their national worship. Its
"Studious walks and shades
Seen where the olive-grove of Academe,
Plato's retirement, where the Attic bird
Thrills her thick-warbled notes the summer long."
THE STADIUM,
387
The prospect on every side of the Acropolis, is exten¬
sive and beautiful. The eye cannot rest upon an object
without its classic associations. Every mountain, hill,
and valley is tinged with their fadeless hues; and no
landscape presents such an assemblage of the beautiful,
associated with classic and intellectual pursuits, as that
of Athens. Although the glory of ancient Greece has
departed, and its master-spirits fled from earth, yet "its
skies are as blue, its crags as wild" as when the poets
touched the lyre.
of Aeolus,—The street which passes the front
of our hotel, is called .®olus, from the temple which
stands at its termination. Its form is octagonal, with
four little porticoes opening into the interior. The marble
columns which supported them, are fallen and scattered
about among broken statues and blocks of marble. It
had bas-reliefs illustrative of its design, with sun-dials
upon its sides. It was inclosed by a circular wall, and
had ample room within for trees and statues, which once
adorned its walls.
Stahiutn, the ruins of which we saw upon a hill
rising from the banks of the Ilissus, with its grass-grown
hollow retiring into the hill-side, was a race-course suffi¬
ciently extensive to seat forty thousand people upon its
steps of Pentelic marble. Although it was described as of
great magnificence, nothing remains but a few shapeless
piles of stone on the side of the hill. On the east of the
Stadium, is the tomb of Herodes Atticus. On the opposite
side of the Ilissus, we were shown the gardens and sanc-
31*-
388 THE MEDITERRANEAN AND GREECE.
tuary of Venus,—a most delightful spot,—a garden still
full of trees.
"Where'er we tread, 'tis haunted, holy ground."
Not a spot but has some association with their literature
or customs. The market-place with its marble columns,
is a work of art ; and the prices of provisions, once fixed
by their ancient laws, is still read.
" Greece ! though thy sculptured walls
Have with thy triumphs and thy glories rung.
And through thy temples and thy .pillar'd halls
Immortal poets sung,
No sounds like these have rent the startled air :
They open realms of light and bid you enter there."
Oh, how full of interest was that place ! We walked
over the rocks which crown the hill in front of the Acro¬
polis, and took a last view of the lofty temples which
stand as beacons of the past, with rays of departing
glory lingering around their walls and broken columns.
The air was fragrant with sweet odors ; and although
the harp that once breathed forth notes of immortal song,
is still, yet strains come up from the past, sad and pen¬
sive, as their accents die away in mournful numbers upon
memory's ear.
íHiSSionatífS.—Before we left Athens, we visited the
schools of the American missionaries, the Rev. Mr. Hill
and his lady, who have been successfully laboring to
advance the education of the youth in Greece. Mrs.
Hill had about four hundred females under her charge,
between two and three hundred of whom were of the
poorer classes, the others, of the most distinguished
families in Greece. Many more who have entered into
MISSIONARIES
389
the most responsible stations of life, have been entirely
educated by them, even the maids of honor to the Queen.
We met one young lady at her home, who was to supply
the place of one lately married. She was a Greek girl
of sixteen, of beautiful countenance and accomplished
manners, dressed partly in the European, and partly in
the Grecian costume. She wore the scarlet fez with a
tassel falling gracefully on one side over her beautiful black
hair, handsomely arranged,—certainly neater and more
becoming than a bonnet on the back of the head. But
the ladies of Greece, whom we have seen, adopt most
generally the European costume, which destroys their
classic grace. We saw but a few faces which bore much
resemblance to the antique statues of beauty. The chil¬
dren in the schools were favored with remarkably fine
and expressive eyes ; and Mrs. Hill said they were very
precocious, and acquired knowledge with ease and rapid¬
ity. Their infant schools were very interesting : they
sang for us some hymns in modern Greek, their beautiful
black eyes sparkling with delight. The poor children are
taught in all the useful branches of education,—to read
the Bible, to sew, and to make garments with great neat¬
ness. They were dressed so clean and looked so neat, in
school-rooms airy and suitable, that it was delightful to
look at children so well cared for. The establishment is
worthy of all praise.
If we were to judge of Greece by modern Athens, we
should think the country was in advance of all others we
had seen in these parts. It bears the appearance of in¬
telligence and happiness that we should hardly look for
390 TTIE MEDITERRANEAN AND GREECE.
in a foreign liind. But the government is said to be very-
bad, and the country in a wretched condition.
Cije ^3alarr of îting (©t^o is situated on a beautiful
elevation, and commands a fine view of the Acropolis and
other ruins. We reached the palace-yard just as the
King and Queen were coming out for their evening ride
on horseback. King Otho, of a tall, fine figure, was
dressed like the Albanians, with white kilt or skirt, with
ample folds just above the knee, drawers and long em¬
broidered gaiters, embroidered tunic, with shawl around
the waist, and the Turkish fez. The costume is graceful
and picturesque. The Queen was dressed in a black
cloth riding-dress and hat, European in style. She ap¬
peared to be about forty, was of a noble and commanding
look, fine figure, with a countenance expressive of great
decision of character, which she exhibited in all her
movements, and is said to he the King's superior in intel¬
lect. She mounted her fine horse with spirit, and rode off
with an air of perfect ease. They passed within a few feet
of us, giving us a fair view of their persons. They have no
children, much to their regret,—no heir to the throne.
The apartments of the palace are large and airy, but
plainly furnished. The King's throne-room was draped
in-crimson velvet, hers with drab, very neat and with
little gilding about them. Their gardens, laid out in pic¬
turesque style, with gravel walks among flowering shrubs
and trees of luxuriant growth, were very beautiful. There
are many fine buildings and beautiful gardens in modern
Athens, showing a state of improvement very pleasing.
ÎDc. îRiîig. We were treated with great politeness by
M I T Y L E N E
MITYLENE.
393
the American Consul and our missionary friends, being
invited to take tea at the Kev. Mr. Hill's, and also at Pr.
King's ; hut we had not time to accept of their hospitality.
Br. King married a native Greek lady, and has an inte¬
resting family of children. He has a small church attached
to his house, much like a Wesleyan chapel, neat and
simple, in which he preaches every Sabbath to small con¬
gregations. There are but few converts who have joined
the American churches : the Greek religion prevailing.
ISitihinQ ahifU to this beautiful city of classic shade,
where the
"Ilissus rolls
His whispering streams within its walls
to this school of ancient sages, full of reminiscences of
the past ; to the Hymettus, with its flowering hills,
" And sound of bees, industrious
to Helicon and Parnassus, with all their charms of ancient
inspiration ; to scenes immortalized by undying genius ;
we went on board the steamer bound for Constantinople.
We had in our company Bayard Taylor and his most
amiable wife, who left Athens at the same time we did.
We were highly favored in our sea-voyage with fine
weather and good company.
iîilttBlfîtf.—We passed the beautiful island of Mity-
lene, or Sestos, spoken of by St. Paul ; the birthplace of
Sappho, of Terpander the musician and poet, of Hellani-
cus and Theophanus, historians, and of Theophrastus and
Phanias, the philosophers. What an inspiration in names !
and what a charm they give to places which otherwise
Y
394 THE MEDITERRANEAN AND GREECE.
would have but little interest ! Mountains, rivers, and
lakes in the Old World, with the sunny islands, are identi¬
fied with intellect and genius, lending enchantment to
every view. The river Ilissus is but a tiny stream, like
a little brook, but invested with poetical and imperishable
beauty, which the mighty rivers that encompass the globe
never possessed.
i^tllespont.—We passed the island of Tenedos,
near the Hellespont, but were disappointed in entering
the Straits of the Dardanelles at night, thus being deprived
of the sight of the two vast continents, which approach
within a mile of each other. Here Xerxes threw across
his bridge of boats from Sestos to Abydos, and wreaked
his vengeance on the waters by casting in his iron fetters.
ÔîiinstaîtttROplf.—As we entered the harbor in the
morning, the city burst upon us in all the gorgeousness
of its Eastern splendor. The mosques with their mul¬
titude of domes and graceful minarets, towering among
gardens and evergreen trees high and elevated, are so
situated that they meet the eye at a glance, giving the
impression of an Oriental paradise. St. Sophia, sur¬
rounded by palaces and gardens of beauty, stands out in
bold relief. The Seraglio of the Sultan, in the midst of
tropical trees of evergreen foliage, extends along the
shore to the water's edge, looking out upon the sea.
The cypress, with its dark shade and its cone-shaped
spires, gave variety as well as beauty to the scene. The
waters were filled with little caiques of delicate form,
neatly carved and cushioned in Turkish style, light and
fragile as an Indian's bark canoe. The Turkish boatmen
THE SULTAN'S WIVES—OUR HOTEL.
395
in their gay costumes, propel them over the water with
the swiftness and lightness of a bird in the air.
Entering the far-famed Golden Horn, we took a boat,
and passed over to the opposite shore of Stamboul, to a
hotel upon Pera, the summit of a hill.
Sultan's 5I2äibeS.—We met some of the Sultan's
wives riding out in their coaches, which moved as heavily
as carriages without springs. They were gayly dressed
and closely veiled, hut with such transparent materials as
to show their features. Some were pretty, but others not
particularly so. They wore a muffler over the chin, mouth,
and nose, and a kerchief over their foreheads down to
their eyes, quite different from the veils of Cairo and Syria.
^ropl^. — The contrasts in Constantinople of
grandeur and meanness are beyond those we have ever
noticed in any place. It was shocking to look at human
beings occupying the place of mules or beasts of burden,
wearing pack-saddles, and carrying enormous piles of
goods and trunks upon their backs. By constantly bear¬
ing such heavy burdens thus, they become bent, so that
they can walk no longer erect. All our baggage was
carried up to the hotel this way.
©ur in Pera, was most delightful, commanding
a beautiful prospect of Stamboul, the marble domes of
St. Sophia, and the Seraglio. The rays of the sun were
reflected from gilded pinnacles amidst groves of perpetual
verdure. But the charm vanishes when one walks about
the streets,—as reality dissolves many a charm in this
poor world. The streets are narrow, badly paved, and
the filthiest w^e have ever passed through.
396 THE MEDITERRANEAN AND GREECE.
dFeaîStOf lílamafan.—We were fortunate to be in Con¬
stantinople before the Ramazan was ended. Before it
closes there is a great illumination, called the Night of
Power, in commemoration of the time when the Koran
was delivered to Mohammed by an angel from heaven ; at
which, it is said, the Sultan is presented with a new bride,
selected for her youth and beauty.
By the courtesy of the American Legation, we had
access to the Pasha's residence, upon the shores of the
Bosphorus, where we enjoyed to the best advantage a
prospect of the whole scene. On the other side was the
mosque, into which he was to enter as he came down upon
the water from his palace. Ships and boats, and the little
caiques, in the harbor were strung with large lights, which
were mirrored in the waters, giving peculiar beauty to
the scene. After waiting some hours, the firing of a
cannon announced the approach of the Sultan, and three
illuminated barges, guarded by a military corps and ac¬
companied by a band of music, were seen floating down
the Bosphorus, with rowers dressed in white. The Sultan
sat in the central one, beneath a pavilion, so that we could
not see his person distinctly.
He landed directly in front of us, amidst a blaze of
light, and passed along the barracks which extend from
the shore to the mosque, and which were wreathed with
dazzling lamps of every form and color. The minaret
of the mosque was encircled with lights ; and a constel¬
lation in the form of the barge he occupied, with its
pavilion of red, blue, and green lights, was thrown out
horizontally from the side of the minaret, as if fixed in
THE SERAGLIO.
397
the heavens. He stayed some time in the mosque, at
prayer ; and when he came out, he was greeted with the
fire of cannon and flashes of light from a thousand stars,
which lighted up the ground. The numerous hoats in the
harhor were crowded with thousands of people who came
to witness the scene. The carriages of the ladies of the
harem, ranged along before our window, were made visible
by the glow of lamps. We passed by the carriages as we
came into the courtyards, and had a glimpse of the fine
ladies, most richly dressed.
After the departure of the Sultan, a splendid display
of fireworks filled the air, throwing up their meteoric
lights in various forms, making every surrounding object
visible. It was like a fairy scene of the Arabian Nighte.
The streets were crowded with people, and the military
escort of the American legation was quite useful to us in
making a passage for us through the crowds.
Constantinople is a place of great external beauty, but
with many dark shades to detract from its charms.
Sfiafllio.—We visited the Seraglio, the palace of
the Sultan, extending far along the shores of the Bos-
phorus, and commanding a fine view of the beautiful sea.
Its halls are capacious, hut much plainer than we antici¬
pated from what we had seen of Oriental splendor. The
floors were covered with matting, and the windows lat¬
ticed and barred with iron. The rooms are almost count¬
less in number, and have marble baths and other append¬
ages of elegance and comfort. One room, with a large
bow-window looking out upon the sea, was finely fur¬
nished with curtains, mirrors, divans, and mattresses
S2
398 THE MEDITERRANEAN AND GREECE.
piled one above another in the corner of the room. An¬
other, a winter-room with a fireplace, was nicely car¬
peted, and cosily furnished. A stand with shelves and
drawers, covered with mother-of-pearl, contained imple¬
ments of sewing. The garden adjoining, which was sur¬
rounded hy high walls covered with creeping vines, was
full of fruits, flowers, and beautiful hedges of evergreens,
and reservoirs of water, marble fountains, and every
thing to delight the eye and taste, where the inmates of
the harem could enjoy these luxuries with no eye to see
them. We walked through this earthly paradise, very
thankful that we were not confined there, notwithstanding
all its combined beauties of nature and art. Turkish
despotism is horrible, and the religion repulsive in the
highest degree. There is no redeeming merit in it.
The Sultan's audience-room, where he receives the am¬
bassadors, though costly, was not beautiful. The chair
of state with its canopy of velvet and gold, looked dingy ;
and the cornice of an enormous bedstead, lusterless. One
part of the frame was piled up with mattresses enough
for a party to sleep upon.
Cljt iïlosçuc of St. 5opi)ia, with its domes, minarets,
and its architectural grandeur, is not so imposing in
appearance as we expected. It is so vast Avithin, that its
height does not appear so great as it really is, and its
gilding looks so dingy, and its walls so dark and cheer¬
less, that it strikes one with gloomy impressions. Its
floors are covered with faded carpets, but no one may
walk upon them without taking off their shoes and putting
on slippers at the door, it is such a "holy place."
THE TURKS—THE BAZAARS.
399
We ascended the gallery by winding pavements, up
which a carriage could be driven with comparative ease.
The passage is about the same width as that in St. Peter's ;
but there are no steps. In looking down from the gal¬
lery, we had some conception of its height from the size
of the people below. The pictures of saints, which once
adorned the church, are covered with folded wings over
the head and face and down to the feet. We did not
know what they meant until told they were our saints.
On the end of a dome in the gallery, the face of our
Savior is discernible through the gilding which has been
washed over it.
ÍITÍIC ÜTurkS.—In the borders of Constantinople the
character of the Turk, and many other Eastern nations,
is seen in all the developments of a money-loving com¬
munity. How to take advantage of strangers is a prin¬
ciple of merit.
To look at the people in their different costumes, as
they crowd the Bosphorus, is quite interesting. The
Persian with his cone-shaped cap made of skins or felt ;
the wild Bedouin with his shawl tied about his head with
a rope of camel's hair, and his coarse striped cloak loosely
flowing from his shoulders; the Albanian with his ele¬
gantly embroidered gaiters, tunic, and vest, with a white
kilt, full and flowing; the Armenian and Turk in velvet
and satin, and all variety of vests ; and the poor over¬
burdened porter, afford variety and contrast for a re¬
flecting mind to study.
" iSa^aars are the most comfortable and elegant we
have seen in the East, and are supplied with the most
400 THE MEDITERRANEAN AND GREECE.
costly goods. Those of Damascus do not compare with
them. They are kept in order by a military corps, who
walk up and down the streets in arms. Their goods of
every desirable kind, are most beautifully arranged.
Nearly all the shopping is done in these places. We
saw more women in these bazaars than we expected.
They talk a great deal, and, although muffled with a veil,
seem to enjoy the scenes and sights. Their most re¬
markable feature is their eyes, which are exceedingly
beautiful, and almost universally black, with a soft, sweet
expression, though there is scarcely a trace of that intel¬
ligence which secures an interest beyond the period of
youth. We met in this city our old friends, Mr. J. K.,
wife and daughter, from Natchez.
CHAPTER XIX.
CENTRAL EUROPE.
Cf)e 1öOSpi)OtUS!.—The scenery on passing up the
Straits of the Bosphorus is delightful. Olympus in the
distance crowned with evergreens and adorned with
palaces embowered among orange-groves and tropical
trees, rocks, hills, and vales ; with villages scattered along
the coast, and innumerable ships dotting the harbors, form
an assemblage of all that is beautiful and lovely. Both
sides of the strait leading to the Black Sea, are crowned
with the blended beauty of nature and art. The Sultan's
palaces, and the summer residences of private families,
almost like palaces, among orange and myrtle groves,
line the shores for a distance.
The passage through the Black Sea was of but little
interest, as we were out of sight of land.
IBanuiie.—The scenery along the shores of this
river is exceedingly dull and flat, and its course is as
circuitous and its waters as turbid as those of the Mis¬
sissippi. There were some little mean-looking villages,
of low, windowless huts, with thatched roofs, a chim¬
ney in the middle, and a door. As we ascended the
river it became more interesting. Along its shores were
hills resembling those on the Upper Mississippi, and some
cities presenting a more flourishing aspect. An old plane-
32* 401
402
CENTRAL EUROPE.
tree was shown us growing upon the banks, under which
Geoffrey Bouillon harangued the Crusaders.
ÎTflt ïton (3ïatt.—We entered a pass in Hungary of a
most romantic character, called the Iron Gate, consisting
of natural walls of rock rising perpendicularly one thou¬
sand feet from the bed of the river, which is here very
narrow and crowned with a few trees growing out of the
crevices. A road has been cut upon the base of one side,
with military posts along the way. A castle was built
upon an isolated cliff well suited for such an edifice as a
place of defense. On one side of the mountain we saw
the cave of refuge, where many Hungarians hid them¬
selves during the late revolution and made their escape.
We passed some fine cities with lofty spires amid green
trees. Belgrade, the romantic seat of Lady Montague,—
the author of those celebrated "Letters from the East,"—
was pointed out to us ; and a more picturesque spot, or
one more suited to a mind like hers, could hardly have
been found.
The strong fortress of Peterwardein, where the Hun¬
garian revolution was commenced, situated upon a beauti¬
ful green hill-side, and united to the town by a bridge of
boats, looks almost impregnable.
^íStí). The approach to this city, the capital of Hun-
gary, is relieved of all monotonous dullness by elevated
banks and beautiful hills crowned with verdure. A for¬
tress upon one, and the palace of the Governor upon
another, opposite the city, are united by a suspension
bridge of elegant workmanship. The commercial houses
of this large and well-built city are similar to those of
BUDA—AUSTRIA.
403
our American cities ; but the spires of their churches are
différent, and of singular effect, being covered with metal,
which reflects the rays of the sun in the distance. We
had a drive in the environs, through most beautiful ave¬
nues lined with shade-trees of horse-chestnut in full bloom,
and through parks with streams of water, bridges, and
fanciful gardens, all kinds of summer-houses, tables in tbo
open air, and cafés for refreshment. Carriages, beautiful
equipages, and fashion were seen crowding the avenues,
promenades, and gardens, everywhere within the city and
its environs. People in Europe appear to love the pure air,
and avail themselves of these retreats for exercise, which
contributes, no doubt, greatly to the preservation of health.
The city was so clean and so free from beggars, that
it looked like a place of prosperity and comfort, com¬
pared with many we had seen.
ÎÔUÏia, opposite Pesth, is situated upon a high elevation
of most commanding prospects. The suspension bridge
is guarded by four colossal lions of granite, placed upon
pedestals at the entrance. Opposite is a tunnel, which ex¬
tends under the hill upon which the palace stands, at the
entrance of which is a magnificent arch with columns in
the form of a Grecian temple. We drove up the heights
and walked around the gardens, which were beautifully
terraced and which command a magnificent view of the
Danube, the city opposite, and the palace and castle.
Every thing about this place bears the marks of beauty
and prosperity. The people had an American look, quite
unlike other places.
—We left in the morning for Vienna by rail-
404
CENTRAL EUROPE.
way, a distance of one hundred and seventy miles, pass¬
ing through a country exceedingly fertile and highly
cultivated. Not a spot was barren : industry marked the
soil with fields of grain all the way. The valley through
which we passed, was level and very wide, but relieved by
mountains in the distance. Below Pesth the land-slides,
sand-bars, and islands of alluvial soil and growth, and the
color of the water, reminded us of the Mississippi ; but the
interminable forests of the latter were wanting. The vil¬
lages at the railway-stations, were remarkably neat : every
cottage had flowers in the windows and planted around,
giving evidence of a love of the beautiful in the humbler
walks of life, so pleasing to witness. The people who la¬
bored in the fields looked neat and well clothed, a charac¬
teristic of the German. However oppressed, he labors
still, while other nations live in idleness and poverty pre¬
ferring beggary to toil. The country is thickly settled,
and large villages were seen in the distance all the way.
The river Danube is lined with mills, and so close
together that they look like a village rising out of the
water, wherever there is a settlement or a city. They
grind their meal by the force of the current.
Passing through Wagram in sight of the battle-ground
of Bonaparte, a beautiful plain covered with vegetation,
we entered Vienna by a bridge which afforded us a
fine view of the city, its houses, churches, and palaces.
The broad streets have as fine a display of stores and as
splendid goods as are found in Europe. There is great
wealth among the aristocracy,—that of Prince Esterhazy
is immense, and his palaces are like those of a kin"T.
O
VIENNA.
405
t!rf)e ISclbtlierc palace of the Emperor, thrown open
on Fridays, contains an extensive collection of the chief
works of art of all schools. The statuary, though limited,
is very exquisite,—Jason with the golden fleece, Medea,
and Jacob and Rachel, are works of great beauty.
The site of the palace is commanding. Upon its
terraces above the gardens, we had a view of the whole
city. In the lower part of the garden, is another palace,
called the Lower Belvidere, containing paintings, a col¬
lection of sculpture, ancient armor, and an Egyptian
museum, with an endless variety of mummies and idols.
CÍatíjCbral of St. âifptw's is a noble and im¬
posing building, of the purest style of Gothic architecture,
with a spire two hundred and twenty-two feet high, dimin¬
ishing in size gradually from its base to the top, in regular
retreating arches and buttresses. The roof of the church
is covered with colored tiles, forming a colossal mosaic
of the Austrian Eagle. The columns inside, which are
fluted, have small niches for statues, so designed as not
to destroy its harmony. The chapels along its sides are
very rich, and the paintings and statuary around the
altars very flne.
(Üflurc!) of ii)t dapucijin JFlonfeS! is interesting
only as containing the remains of royalty. One of the
brothers led us down into these subterraneous chambers
of the regal dead. The cofiins, some of which are elabo¬
rately ornamented, are metallic. The oldest, bearing the
date 1619, contains the remains of the Emperor Matthias.
The most splendid is that of Margaret of Spain, first wife
of Leopold L, which is said to be of pure silver. Those
406
CENTRAL EUROPE.
of Maria Theresa, her husband, Francis I., and her son,
Joseph, are the most magnificent. For thirteen years after
the death of her husband, it is said that Maria Theresa
descended into his vault every Friday, to weep and pray
beside his remains. The monument, which now marks the
resting-place of both, is very large and costly, and splen¬
didly adorned with allegorical figures and angels, with the
crowns of each placed over their heads in regal majesty.
The coffins, with their distinctive names and honors,
are all handsomely arranged over a marble pavement.
Among them all, graved by the purest efibrts of art,
none appeared so interesting as the simple, unadorned
one of the Duke of Reichstadt, son of Napoleon. It has
a raised cross upon the top, with these words,—hapo-
leonis Galliac Imperatoris Filius."
This method of kingly entombment is vastly more
secure from the ravages of time than any we have seen.
The metallic coffins have scarcely changed, and do not
crumble away like the marbles of Westminster Abbey.
Ci)c eti^urci) of augustine0 is a small, but beau¬
tiful and chaste edifice, free from all gaudy tinseling. Its
chief ornament is the monument of the Archduchess Chris¬
tiana of Saxe-Teschen, designed by Canova,—one of the
most exquisite works of art we have ever seen,—in which
his superior genius is most unmistakably manifest. It
consists of a pyramid of grayish marble, thirty feet high,
in the center of which is an opening into the tomb, ap¬
proached by two broad steps. At its entrance stand three
figures,—Virtue, whose form is dignified and graceful, and
whose countenance wears a most heavenly expression,
SCHÖNBRÜNN.
407
holding in her hands an urn with the ashes of the dead,
to he deposited in the tomb ; on either side a little girl of
angelic beauty, with a face beaming with spiritual intelli¬
gence, bearing torches of light. Behind these stands
Benevolence supporting an old man tottering with the
infirmities of age, with an expression of poverty so perfect
that it speaks to the soul in a language of its own suppli¬
cation. By his side is an orphan boy of a downcast look,
sad face, and clasped hands, a statue which tells its own
tale of woe. On the opposite side is a recumbent lion,
with a subdued expression; and leaning upon him in a
most graceful yet desponding attitude, stands Genius,
molded in beauty and grace. Above the tomb is a me¬
dallion figure of the Archduchess, sustained by another
of Happiness. Opposite to that, is Genius on the wing,
holding the palm of Victory. This allegorical group of
figures is so touching, so impressive and so full of mean¬
ing, that its lesson is read at a glance.
In another small, circular apartment, called the Chapel
of Loretto, are seen extended around the walls, upon a
shelf, silver urns containing the hearts of the royal dead;
that of Maria Theresa was in the center, mounted by a
silver cross.
We were only permitted to look at these through a
little circular glass fixed in the wall. There were other
rooms with distinguished monuments, but Canova's was
the chief work. The nave of the church is small; its
white organ, ornamented with gold; but there are no paint¬
ings or ornaments to detract from Canova's group.
äc^Önbrunn.—The palace of Schönbrunn—the summer
408
CENTRAL EUROPE.
palace of the Emperor—is situated in the environs of
Vienna, about two miles from the city,—one of the most
lovely spots which the country affords. This elegant re¬
treat is laid out in parks and gardens, in a style quite
different from any hitherto seen. They comprise many
acres of level and undulating ground running back from
the palace. Upon the august elevation directly opposite
the Imperial palace, is a temple with a colonnade of
pillars, called Glorietta, ornamented on each side by
carved colossal statues of wood, with their coats of mail,
or the arms of the country. The prospect from this
temple embraces Vienna and the country around with its
romantic scenes of castles,—ruins of the feudal ages,—
chateaus, villas, cottages, and ranges of mountains in the
distance.
tôathens are laid out in straight walks and long
avenues from a central square, with grassy plats and
flowers, artifieial ponds containing goldflsh, grottos, and
statues, among which old Neptune with trident in hand,
figures conspicuously. Around the square from which the
avenues radiate, is a hedge formed of trees sixty feet high,
and surrounded by colossal statues of white granite,, pre¬
senting a most peculiar aspect. We felt as though we
were walking in nature's vast temple, walled in by her
loveliest foliage. The grass beneath was closely shaven ;
and the brilliant flowers, planted in circular plats with
distinct colors, gave beauty to the scene. The long, arched
avenues were interspersed with fountains and wood-nymphs,
and the gravel-walks were the cleanest we ever trod. In
another part of the grounds, was a botanical garden and a
THE PALACE.
409
menagerie. On one side of the square is a dense green
wood with natural walks, cottages, lakes, and little boats.
On the side of a most lovely dell, is a Roman ruin so faith¬
fully represented that we took it at first for reality,—a
most beautiful imitation, fitted to its romantic position in
the wood, among rocks and waterfalls, and so disposed
as to make it appear in its natural position. These
walks, so cool and beautiful, are thronged with beauty
and fashion during the summer.
^alacr.—This lofty building, covering a large
spaee of ground with its paved court and gallery, lofty as
it is, has no beauty, though in a most picturesque place.
It looks like a common country dwelling. Some of its spa¬
cious halls are splendidly furnished, each with different
shades of color. The Empress's boudoir, the most beau¬
tiful of all, is draped with blue damask trimmed with gold.
The floors are not carpeted, but inlaid with precious wood,
in beautiful patterns, and waxed to shine like a mirror.
Three or four of the rooms are called the Rose-rooms,
from the magnificent landscapes of Salvator Rosa which
adorn their walls. One room is ornamented with the em-
broidery'of Maria Theresa. It is set in the wall, in small
patterns covered with glass, with gilded frames extending
from the floor to the ceiling. The various designs are suited
to the pattern of the paper, as if made to fit the place,—a
most singular method of preservation. Although they
are faded and divested of their rich coloring, yet the
form and shade of the flowers are perfect, and tell of the
queen's industry.
This palace has historical associations of interest.
Z 33
410
CENTRAL EUROPE.
Here was signed the Treaty of Schönbrunn, in lo09; and
Napoleon occupied a place in the same room and slept in
the same bed, on which his son, the Duke of Reichstadt,
died, at the interesting age of twenty-one,—a wise Provi¬
dence defeating the object which the ambitious motives
of the Emperor Napoleon so unrighteously designed to
accomplish.
While we were in the palace, we saw the young Arch¬
duke, brother to the present Emperor of Austria, as he
walked up the garden,—a small, common-looking boy of
fifteen years, with nothing striking in his appearance. As
he passed, all the people bowed and paid him reverence,
and he politely lifted his hat.
The present Empress is much admired for her beauty,
and portraits of the Emperor and herself are hung up
everywhere in public places. She is about twenty, with
that sweet expression which is called pretty,.but without
any classical beauty of features. Her figure is tall and
very graceful, giving her an air of elegance.
Sílhíiaíl).—At Vienna we attended worship on the
Sabbath, at the house of the English Ambassador, where
service is performed in the English language. The
English Government make this provision wherever they
have an interest in foreign countries. In Rome, the
church is outside the gates of the city. In Naples, it is in
the house of the English Legation, where a regular price
is paid for a seat every Sabbath, to support the ministry.
J3cinui)f. We left Vienna the last day of May,
on our way to Munich, again taking passage on the
Danube. The scenery is more interesting as we ascend;
THE DANUBE.
411
the hills along its banks becoming more lofty, and clothed
with the richest foliage. The ruins of old feudal castles
of romantic beauty, crown their heights. Towns, churches
and convents, are scattered along the way.
As we passed, we observed a monastery of the Bene¬
dictines, covering the side of a very high hill, in solitary
grandeur away from the haunts of men, where thousands
could live in seclusion. A church with three towers and
a lofty dome, and other extensive buildings, were con¬
nected with it.
13urrtnstcin ©asile.—The ruins of Durrenstein Castle
are of peculiar interest and great beauty, being situated
upon a rocky eminence, and scarcely distinguished from it
except by the crumbling tower and broken arches, through
which the light penetrates revealing their shapes. The
rocks, like those on the summit of the Alps, run up on
each side in bristling pinnacles, above and below almost
to the water's edge, like a natural wall of defense, not
having the least sign of vegetation. It is relieved on the
background by a bill clothed with trees of evergreen,
which renders it more picturesque. A room is shown in
this castle, where, in 1192, Richard Coeur-de-Lion was
imprisoned fifteen months by Leopold of Austria.
iSflarg of ti)C íLittU ©able, built in 1661, is a church
situated upon the top of a high hill, amidst one of Nature's
fairest landscapes. Its lofty towers with singular-shaped
spires ; its portico with trees shaven like columns with
large capitals ; its fine, extensive buildings running back,
designed to accommodate pilgrims; and the surrounding
groves with undulating hills covered with the liveliest
412
CENTRAL EUROPE.
green, give a finish to the whole scene, and render it an
object of unique beauty, as it bursts upon the sight in the
bend of the river.
A singular tradition is attached to this church, from
which it receives its name. There was an old oak which
once stood upon the site, with the image of the Virgin
Mary attached to it, beneath whose spreading branches
the peasantry used to assemble every year to pray for a
good harvest. As the tree began to decay, one of the
peasantry took it into his head to cut it down ; but his
ax missing the blow passed into his foot; when, looking
up, he saw the image and was miraculously healed.
From fifty to one hundred thousand people come yearly
to the feast of the Church of the Little Table, in honor
of this singular tradition. Fronting the river, upon a
bank at the foot of this hill, stand three crosses, for the
crucifixion, where hangs the carved image of our Savior,
marking the road which leads to the church.
We saw several rude chapels along the banks of the
river, dedicated to the Virgin and Child.
Nassau.—We arrived at Passau, a city of prepossess¬
ing appearance, situated between lofty hills at the junc¬
tion of the Inn and the Danube. Opposite the city,
rises an almost perpendicular cliff of great height,
upon which once stood a fortified castle with its towers
and walls, having steps down to the bed of the river.
"Passau was once the capital of an ecclesiastic com¬
munity extending over a region of twenty-four square
miles, containing a population of sixty thousand inhabit¬
ants. It is now a frontier town of Bavaria, of con-
THE INN—ROSENHEIM.
413
siderable beauty and strength, and has some fine churches
and massive buildings.
intl.— Here we took passage for Munich, on a
small boat up the river Inn, one of the principal branches
of the Danube. It is a beautiful river, lined with villages
and towns, in the midst of a fertile and highly cultivated
country. The fields were waving with grain, and the
rich meadows with clover and tall grass.
As we passed the walls of the ancient town of Wurz-
burg, we saw crowds of people gathered upon the opposite
shore, celebrating some feast-day of the Catholic Church.
Our captain gave a salute in honor of the festival, and
hoisted five different flags upon the mast, the object of
which we could not tell. The common people were
dressed in their national costumes ; the higher classes
adopt the French and English costumes. This is a great
country for feast-days and pilgrimages.
"It is astonishing," says an author, "how many thou¬
sands and hundreds of thousands of pilgrims throughout the
Austrian and Bavarian dominions, as well as in France,-
Spain, and Switzerland, make annual journeys to some
shrine of worship which has a miracle-working image or
picture. Books are sold on the spot, with a narrative of
the facts. The treasuries of these churches are stored
with rich dresses, jewels, and trinkets, for the image of
the Virgin, and costly plate for the service of the altar.
Princes, popes, emperors, and kings, even down to the
present day, have contributed largely to these objects."
l\O0rîl$rÎRt, with fine streets and well-built houses, and
a fortified castle upon a hill, is a beautiful little city farther
33«
414
CENTRAL EUROPE.
up, in another bend of the river. We stayed at this place
over night, taking the cars in the morning for Munich.
The country through which we passed is flat and un¬
interesting.
iïltintCÔ.—The city, situated on the banks of the river
Isar, is itself peculiar ; its quaint-looking houses with
numberless windows in their fronts, and their tall, sharp
roofs perforated with little windows, at a distance looking
like pigeon-holes, add to its picturesque effect. Some of
the houses are ornamented with scroll-work or stucco-
patterns and rude frescoes, with lantern-like projections
or oriel-windows at the corners, producing a singular, but
not disagreeable, effect. The streets are broad and clean,
and built far beyond its old walls, adding quite a new
part to the old city.
The buildings erected for the fine arts, are splendid
specimens of Grecian architecture. The Sculpture and
the Painting Galleries, opposite each other and detached
from other buildings, are exceedingly beautiful. These
ornaments to the city owe their origin to the late King,
Louis, who was himself a poet, and who made art his
study from early youth. He has filled these halls with
his own collections, which do justice to his good taste.
We had a sight of his person, as we passed along one of
his parks, plainly dressed and unattended. With the
mind of a poet, he still revels among the beauties of art
and nature, and frequently visits the temples he has
adorned. These collections of the fine arts have given
Munich a place among the first cities of the world.
SctilptUTp ©allptj) is of beautiful white marble.
MUNICH—THE KING'S NEW PALACE. 415
with Corinthian columns and Ionic capitals in the front.
The wings and niches are filled with statues, bas-reliefs
around the cornice, and frescoes of classic illustrations.
Some of the rooms within the halls for sculpture resem¬
bled those of the Vatican. The walls are of the richest
coloring, the floors of marble, and the arched ceilings are
decorated with stuccoes and gilding. The collection is
small, but valuable, consisting of Grecian, Roman, Etrus¬
can, and Egyptian antiquities. The hall of colored sculp¬
ture has some curious works of art,—a female statue, with
head, shoulders, and arms purely white, was draped with
black marble. The works of Canova and Thorwaldsen
occupy the principal place in the halls of modern sculp¬
ture. The galleries for painting are very beautiful ; their
arrangement is as fine as any we have seen in Europe.
CI)? îtinfi'S TSTeh) is a most magnificent build¬
ing. Many of the rooms are adorned with frescoes from
the designs of German poets. One room, in imitation of
Pompeii, with walls and paintings of like character, and
beautiful statues, is called by that name. Another room
is ornamented with the portraits of female beauties, from
the royal princess to the peasant girl. The throne-room,
one hundred feet long and seventy wide, has six white
Corinthian columns with gilded capitals on each side,
between which are twelve colossal gilt-bronze statues, ten
feet high, presenting a most brilliant display of royalty in
their rich drapery and kingly costumes, from Otho, the
illustrious Elector-Palatine and Duke of Bavaria, down
to Charles XIL, King of Sweden, 1718. There were no
paintings upon the white walls to detract from the effect
416
CENTRAL EUROPE.
of the gilded statues,—a chaste and simple elegance quite
new in kingly palaces. The throne was equally splendid,
adorned with a drapery of velvet starred with gold. The
floor was paved with delicately-colored marble.
We visited the old palace department, furnished one
hundred and fifty years ago. It is quite a curiosity,
especially the gold bedstead, as it is called, which is
adorned with a canopy, spread, and drapery of crimson
velvet, embroidered with gold, so heavily wrought that
little else could be seen. We were told that it took forty
persons seven years to accomplish the work, at a cost of
four hundred thousand dollars. The deep fringe around
the whole was of pure gold. The curtains over the doors
and windows were of velvet upon gold ground ; and the
walls were covered with the same material. Mirrors set
in the walls, with wide-spreading gilt frames suited to the
rooms, most elaborately wrought, reach from the ceil¬
ing nearly to the floor. The chairs were ornamented with
velvet and gold ; yet the fine gold had become dim ; its
brilliancy had departed with those who once occupied
these halls, and was moidering away. All the rooms
are richly and heavily furnished. Some fine paintings,
works of the first artists, adorn the walls of several rooms,
and look quite fresh. One room is ornamented with rare
specimens of miniatures, arranged over the walls like the
embroidery of Maria Theresa, at Vienna.
The palaces are very extensive, and are surrounded
with arcades, ornamented with paintings and frescoes.
One was like a bazaar with fanciful shops to display ele¬
gant and costly goods.
THE MUNICH MANUFACTORY.
417
i!E§e liîogal ^amteïJ-iifîlass JKanufactorB, an establish¬
ment where the art of painting in fresco is carried to the
greatest degree of perfection, contains the most beau¬
tiful designs of groups of figures with exquisitely colored
drapery, landscapes, and portraits, interesting beyond
any thing of the kind we ever saw. The expression
equals the artistic pencilings of genius, and surpasses
them in their fadeless hues ; but they can only be seen
when brought before the light of a window.
The shops of glass in this city, containing ornaments
of all kinds, look like palaces. There were exquisite
patterns of vases filled with flowers of every hue ; dessert-
dishes of all colors, from the most delicate green to a
pure white ornamented with gold ; little spoons, knives
and forks, beautifully wrought, to match ; goblets, finger-
glasses, wine-glasses, and coolers, gilded and seeming too
beautiful for use. The stores are museums of the fine
arts, the glass surpassing every thing of the kind in the
world. These are made at the celebrated Bohemian
factories. We saw, in the King's palace, very heavy
glass curtains, resembling gold. We visited the far-famed
broom-factory for which this place is so celebrated. We
saw also the equestrian statue of Bolivar, which is being
wrought here. The head of the. horse, already cast,
exhibits all the expression of a warlike steed of spirit.
The models of Jefferson, Patrick Henry, and other
Americans were there. Beethoven,* by Crawford, is a
most lovely work of genius. Schiller and Goethe, grouped
together, a design by a German artist.
* Now in the Music Hall, Boston.
418
CENTRAL EUROPE.
âtatue of iôabaria.—We drove a short distance from
the city, to the Hall or Temple of Fame, a beautiful
marble building of Grecian architecture surrounded by
Corinthian columns, with wings projecting in front
making half a court, in the center of which, upon a
pedestal twenty-eight and a half feet high, stands the
colossal bronze Statue of Bavaria, sixty-one feet high,
of most elegant and graceful proportions, with a counte¬
nance beaming with light, intelligence, and dignified
power. Her left hand, elevated above her head, holds a
wreath ; her right grasps a sword ; beneath is a colossal
lion, the arms of Bavaria. This statue is considered one
of the most magnificent of modern times : it has a stair¬
case inside, for people to ascend to the head which is suflS-
ciently large to hold eight persons ; the statue is fully
draped in a flowing costume, adapted to its position.
The situation of this temple is well chosen, standing
upon a hill before a wide, extended valley rich with ver¬
dure. This, indeed, is the only picturesque spot we have
seen in the environs of Munich. In the distance are seen
the snow-clad summits of the Tyrolese mountains ; little
woodlands, lovely pastures, and rural dwellings diversify
the level landscape, while directly in front of the temple
is a race-track. The most imposing view of the statue is
just below, where it towers up above the temple in
majesty and grace. This beautiful hall is relieved in the
background by a lofty green wood, in which there are
walks and shades.
ÎTljr gíe0uiís', or S)t. iíHicíiacrs (ttíurcí), built in 1583,
is remarkable for its spacious interior, unsupported by
GARDENS AND PARKS.
419
pillars. Its length, exclusive of the choir, is two hundred
and sixty-nine feet ; its width, eighty-one. To us it was
especially interesting, as it contains the monument to the
memory of Eugene Beauharnais, son of Josephine Bona¬
parte, erected by his wife, the sister of the King of Bavaria.
The design was by Thorwaldsen. A full-length figure of
him, placed in a recess of the wall, stands upon a platform
before the closed door of a tomb. It is plainly clad and
divested of all ornament, with a wreath in its hand, a
crown and arms at its feet. At its right hand sits his
wife with a pencil, as if sketching the group ; as we under¬
stood she was an artist. On the opposite side, two angels
stand ready for flight. The whole, wrought in pure white
marble, is beautiful in effect. This church adorned with
many statues of the Emperors and Princes of Germany,
and of our Savior, is very rich in ornaments. The altars
shine with gold and silver.
5rf)C ©Ih ©at^ehral is a huge pile of brick, with the
tallest windows of old-fashioned cut glass we ever saw.
Its towers built without much architectural beauty, are
high and square. It covers a vast space of ground with
its massive walls, and is interesting from its peculiarity
of shape and antiquity.
©arhcnS anh —Munich abounds in gardens
and parks for all classes of people; and those near the
suburbs, are filled with multitudes who assemble every
evening, and on the Sabbath, to drink beer, their favorite
beverage. They are distinguished above all other Euro¬
peans for drinking beer and smoking.
The gardens and parks near the palace, and in the
420
CENTRAL EUROPE.
central part of the city, are very beautiful and inviting,
more so than those in the environs, and add much to the
beauty of the place. There are a great many shade-trees,
flowering shrubs, beautiful hedges of lilacs, and other
flowers, which render Munich attractive. There is also
a botanical garden, a crystal palace, and various other
scientific and humane institutions. The poor appear to
be cared for; for we saw no beggars in the streets.
2ri)C dlilltaiC is healthy and delightful. Munich is one
of the most elevated cities in Europe, being sixteen hun¬
dred feet above the level of the sea. The city is increasing
in size and prosperity, and has extended a considerable
distance beyond the old walls, and now contains a popu¬
lation of upward of one hundred thousand souls, six thou¬
sand of which are Protestants. We heard many singing-
birds among the trees, which reminded us of the sweet
songsters of Louisiana. They brought to mind those dear
and cherished friends associated with their melody, and
the tombs of the loved and lost where they now tune their
harps over the silent ear of death.
in the streets of Munich look remarkably
healthy, clean, and well dressed; that of the lower classes
was plain, but neat. The national costume of head-dress,
among the women, called rugel hauhe, which the King has
encouraged, is a net-work of gold or silver placed over
the comb on the back of the head. It is an expensive
article; and we did not see a great many of them. In
some provinces they wear, tied round their heads, black
silk kerchiefs, with long folds hanging behind ; and some
of tiie peasantry who visited the gallery of fine arts, wore
A CASTLE—THE CELLAR.
421
gilded ornaments several inches high, almost like a hel¬
met, with a black ribbon tied under the chin to fasten it
on, and several yards streaming from it upon the shoul¬
ders behind,—a most singular ornament. The lower
classes wearing no bonnets, have fine healthy complexions,
not as deeply bronzed, although exposed to the open air,
as in more southern climes. They lead a degraded life,
laboring in the field like men.
S (ïtastlt.—From Munich we passed through a part
of Augsburg and a country richly cultivated, toward
Heidelburg, stopping to visit the celebrated castle on the
banks of the Necker, one of the largest ruins in Europe.
The walls, some of them several stories high, are still
standing, adorned with statuary in niches and carved cor¬
nices of considerable beauty. There are towers with high,
massive walls, part of which, thrown down when attacked
by the French, lie resting against the tower, overgrown
with vegetation. In the arches above, large trees have
taken root, and spread their branches among its crum¬
bling ruins; and from the very top, trees of many years'
growth have thrown their shadows over its sides. The
building must have been very extensive, as shown by the
detached parts and fragments standing alone. The chapel
is entire, having a central hall and tower attached, upon
the top of which, we found vegetation growing in luxu¬
riance.
CÎTllat.—We visited the cellar, to see the cele¬
brated Heidelburg wine-vat or tun, as it is called, a giant
hogshead, capable of holding two hundred and eighty-three
thousand bottles. Upon its side was built a platform, sur-
34
422
CENTRAL EUROPE.
rounded bj a railing, Avbere a company used to dance.
There were other casks of smaller dimensions, which would
have appeared very large had it not been for this one of
mammoth size very near them. The massive walls of the
cellar and its extensive arches are still solid, and give
striking evidence of the manners and life of feudal times,
when the lord of the castle monopolized the wealth of the
country around.
The castle is between the Necker and a range of
hills, among ledges of rocks and woody dells. The whole
scene is of peculiar wildness and beauty. Its winding
walks are densely shaded, and form beautiful, cool retreats
for a summer ramble among its ruins.
We passed on to Stuttgard, thence to Frankfort and
Mayence, and down the Khine again, and for the last
time.
"Adieu to thee again! a vain adieu!
There can be no farewell to scenes like thine;
The mind is color'd by thy every hue ;
And if reluctantly the eyes resign
Their cherish'd gaze upon thee, lovely Rhine !
'Tis with the thankful glance of parting praise.
More mighty spots may rise, more glaring shine ;
But none unite in one attaching maze
The brilliant, fair and soft,—the glories of old days."
—Though we had been journeying westward
for some weeks, yet, as we bade adieu to the Rhine and
all its sources of high intellectual and sentient enjoy¬
ment, we could not but feel that we were about to leave
these scenes of historic, classic, and religious associations
forever. A few days more only remained to us. Much
as we loved our own land, it was with regret we turned to
HOMEWARD.
423
view for the last time, places and things made memorable
by great and heroic deeds, or consecrated by antiquity.
Stopping a few days at Cologne and Brussels, to re¬
visit its palaces, cathedrals, and parks, we made our way
to Paris, arriving in this gay city in the gayest of months,
June. Here we spent some time, revisiting the Louvre,
Tuileries, Place de la Concorde, and Champs Elysées.
Paris is unlike any other city : itself fascinating in love¬
liness, it is filled with a people as happy and blithesome
as it is beautiful. In. one thing I might wish American
ladies were more like the Parisian,—in out-of-door exer¬
cise. We meet them in Paris everywhere and at all times,
—not, as in our own country, merely on our Broadways for
a dull and formal promenade, but, with the chatty free¬
dom of carelessness, wherever there is a green grass-plat.
Everywhere we meet nurses with infants and children.
The more we see of this out-of-door life of European
women and children, the more we feel that it is an ele¬
ment of health and strength which our countrywomen
greatly need. The French people know how to avail
themselves of the rich physical resources of an invigor¬
ating and healthful atmosphere.
Spending a few days in Havre, and also in Liverpool,
we took passage for America in the early part of July.
Sn ïCthCtQ.—Nothing of note occurred on our voyage
till near the coast of Newfoundland, when we were
favored with the gorgeous spectacle of an iceberg. At
first, we fancied it resembled the pyramids, shooting up
into distinct cones ; but, as it moved on, it looked more
like some crystal palace, with most gorgeous colorings.
424
CENTRAL EUROPE.
floating in a sea of azure ; then it changed into the
swelling domes and lofty towers of a magnificent cathe¬
dral, with spires wreathed with the snows of winter in
dazzling whiteness, with walls of pearl studded with
diamonds.
It was surpassingly beautiful ! upon which every eye
was fixed in admiration. Unlike any thing of earth, it
seemed some imaginary temple, some wierd creation of
fancy. The bow in its primitive colors, encircled every
column, arch, pinnacle, and tower, so that the whole ap¬
peared surrounded with a halo of glory of transcendent
brightness. As long as we could behold it, we gazed
upon this beautiful vision,—beautiful indeed to look upon,
but, armed with the cold panoply of death, fearful to
meet. We were some miles from it ; but with the aid of
a telescope every light and shade could be distinctly seen.
Losing sight of this beautiful vision, we were soon
enveloped in fog, until we made the harbor of Hali¬
fax. As our own native land met our sight, giving us
assurance that our long pilgrimage was at an end, and
that we were near the home of our youth and the em¬
braces of the loved, our heart was filled with a flood of
emotions joyous and grateful. To us it was the close of
one of the most important undertakings of our life. It
was with devout pleasure that we set forth to see with our
own eyes the places hallowed by the presence of the Son
of God ; and when, after months of travel, our feet stood
within the gates of Jerusalem, and we S9.w Bethlehem,
and Olivet, and Gethsemane, and Calvary, we could not
but feel that the greatest privilege of a life verging on to
REFLECTIONS.
425
tbreescore-and-ten had betn reserved to its latest years.
Doubly happy were we, therefore, to greet our nativo
land, and devoutly thankful to that kind and watchful
Providence which had held all our goings, and, without
sickness or accident brought us to the blessed land that
gave us birth.
The more we have seen of foreign lands, of the op¬
pressions of kingly power, and of the contrast our own
land presents, in her religious influences and privileges,
to any other country on the globe, the more we have felt
to thank God we were born in America. It seems as if
the angel of pure religion, taking flight from the Old
World, had folded its wings on the peaceful shores of the
New. Long may the banner of the Cross, unfurled to
the breezes that fan Columbia's fertile vales, be stainless
of the pollutions of Islamism or the tyranny of priestly
power !
America, land of the blest ! May her sons and daugh¬
ters, scattered throughout her vales and over her vast
prairies, from the Atlantic to the Golden Gate, ever prove
worthy of the political and religious rights which, bought
by the blood of our forefathers and anointed with the
prayers of the devout of succeeding generations, make
her the home of peace, happiness, and plenty, and which
are the richest inheritance of her favored children.
34*
INDEX.
Abbotsford, 64.
Abdallah Yuseff, 296.
Abraham's House, 301.
Abraham's Oak, 300.
Acropolis, 379, 381.
Aix-la-Chapelle. 115.
Albania, 167.
Albano, 171.
Alexandria, 229, 281.
Apollodorus, 169.
Appian Way, 158.
Appii Forum, 159.
Arab funeral, 231.
Arabs, 231, 236, 283, 306.
Arc-de-Triomphe, 79.
Areopagus, 382.
Arimathea, 291.
Ascent of Mt. Vesuvius, 187.
Athens, 378.
Atlantic, 19.
Austria, 403.
Baden-Baden, 119.
Balbec, 358.
Banias, 339,
Barada, 356.
Baronial residence, 40.
Baron Rothschild, 119.
Bartholomew's studio, 173.
Basle, 122.
Baths of Caracalla, 161.
Baths of Diocletian, 162.
Baths of Titus, 163.
Bay of Baise, 215.
Bazaars, 232, 243, 350.
Bazaars of Constantinople, 399.
Bedouins, 338, 350.
Beggars, 136, 161,166, 183,197, 221.
Bethany, 313.
Bethel, 322.
Bethlehem, 297.
Beyroot, 366, 370.
Bishop Heber, 39.
Boat-race, Loch Lomond, 70.
Bosphorus, 401.
Bridal call, 270.
British Museum, 44.
Brussels, 112.
Buda, 403.
Bugle-player, 77.
Csesarea-Philippi, 339.
Cairo, 238.
Campanile, 136.
Camp of the Caesars, 251.
Cana of Galilee, 333.
Capidemonte, 217.
Capitol, Rome, 154.
Capri, 190.
Capua, 178.
Car.avan, 365.
Castle of St. Angelo, 168.
Catharine de Medicis, 83, 100.
Cathedral, Cologne, 116.
Cathedral, Old, Munich, 419.
Cathedral, Naples, 196.
Cathedral of Messina, 221.
Cathedral of St. Gudule, 113.
Cathedral of St. Stephen's, 405.
■ Cathedral, Pisa, 136.
Cathedral, St. Paul's, London, 38.
Cathedral, St. Paul's, Malta, 228.
Cathedral, St. Peter's, 144.
Cave of Jeremiah, 317.
Cave of Machpelah, 301.
Celtic Society, 68.
Champs lÊlysêes, 80.
Chapel among the Catacombs, 283.
Chapel, City-Road, 34.
Chapelle Expiatoire, 82.
427
428
INDEX.
Chapel of St. Januarius, 197.
Chatsworth, 51.
Cheops, 273.
Churches, Cairo, 256.
Churches, English, Paris, 92.
Churches, Geneva, 135.
Church, Annunciata, Genoa, 135.
Church, New St. Paul's, 157.
Church, St. Carlos, 152.
Church, St. Martin's, 29.
Church, St. Mary's, Cologne, 116.
Church, St. Stephen's, 254.
Church of Santa Croza, 139.
Church of St. John Lateran, 147.
Church of St. John, Malta, 223.
Church of St. Maggiore, 156.
Church of the Augustines, 406.
Church of the Capuchin Monks,
Vienna, 405.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 293.
City-Road Chapel, 34.
Civita Vecchia, 141.
Clark, Dr. Adam, 34.
Cleopatra's Needles, 231, 281.
Climate of Munich, 420.
Cloaca Maxima, 159.
Clock at Versailles, 103.
Coleridge's Home, 58.
Coliseum, 143.
College of Sorbonne, 97.
Cologne, 116.
Columbaria, 159.
Constantinople, 394.
tlonvent, Cairo, 264.
Convent of the Nativity, 297.
Coptic church, 246.
Coptic wedding, 265.
Copts, 255.
Country of Judea, 291.
Craigmillar Castle, 62.
Crawford's studio, 174.
CumsD, 213.
Cumsean Sibyl, 214.
Damascus, 347.
Dan, 339.
Danube, 401, 410.
Dead Sea, 307.
Dean of Carlisle, 125.
Dean Swift, 72.
Depth of Greek Patriarch, 245.
Departure for Jaffa, 283.
Dervishes, Howling, 262.
Devonshire, 58.
Dinner-party, 21.
Donkeys, 184, 257.
Dr. Candlish, 66.
Dr. Guthrie, 66.
Dr. King, 390.
Druses, 337, 341, 343.
Druse religion, 344.
Druse temples, 343.
Dryburgh Abbey, 64.
Dublin, 72.
Duchess of Hamilton, 70.
Duke of Athol, 67.
Durenstein Castle, 411.
Dying Gladiator, 155.
Earthquake, 219.
Eastern costumes, 233.
Edinburgh, 61.
El-Khalil, 301.
Emperor Augustus, 190.
Emperor Tiberius, 190.
English Consul, Joppa, 288.
Environs of Damascus, 353.
Erasmus, 122.
Eruption of Vesuvius, 188.
Esdraelon, 328.
Eve, Bartholomew's, 175.
Feast of Ramazan, 348, 396.
Feast of the Passover, 319.
Florence, 137.
Fontainebleau, 106.
Fortress, Cairo, 251.
Fountain of Elisha, 310.
Fountain of Mary and Joseph, 322.
Francis I. Gallery, 107; 109.
Frankfort-on-the-Maine, 118.
Freedom, statue of, 175.
Fruit of Damascus, 352.
Gama Tayloon, 250.
Garden, Mohammed Bey's, 282.
Gardens and parks, Munich, 419.
Gardens, Botanical, 35.
Gardens, Shoobra, 247.
Gardens, Zoological, London, 34.
Gardens of Solomon, 303.
Geneva, 124.
Genoa, 134.
Gethsemane, 294.
Ghizeh, 271.
Giant's Causeway, 71.
Gibson's studio, 175.
Glaciers, 128.
Glasgow, 67.
Gobelin manufacture, 93.
INDEX.
429
Goethe, 118.
Good Samaritan, 312.
Grand Trianon, 104.
Grecian temple, 342.
Grotto, 211.
Grotto of Posilippo, 212.
Grotto, river Jordan, 340.
Grotto Verde, 196.
Haddon Hall, 56.
Hadrian's Temple, 169.
Hadrian's Villa, 167.
Halifax, 424.
Hall of Marengo, 101.
Harem of Mohammed Ali, 276.
Harem of the Pasha, 280.
Hasbeyia, 342.
Hebron, 301.
Heideiburg, 421.
Heliopolis, 258.
Hellespont, 394.
Herculaneum, 201, 207.
Hermit, 195.
Highlanders, 67.
Hill of Scopus, 317.
Holyrood Castle, 62.
Horace, 165.
Hotel at Damascus, 352.
Hotel de Cluny, 96.
Hotel des Invalides, 90.
Hotel de Louvre, 79.
Hotel life, Liverpool, 24.
House of Ananias, 348.
House of Simon the Tanner, 287.
Houses, Cairo, 261.
Houses, Damascus, 351.
Howling Dervishes, 262.
Iceberg, 424.
Il-Salto, 193.
Irish jaunty, 73.
Irish villages, 73.
Iron Gate, 402.
Island of Rhoda, 272.
Island of Rhodes, 372.
Isle of Cyprus, 3n.
Italian scenery, 172.
Jacob's Well, 324.
Jardin des Plantes, 92.
Jenin, 327.
Jeremiah's Synagogue, 254.
Jericho, 311.
Jerusalem, 292.
Jews, 119, 315.
Jews' Wailing-Place, 315.
Joan of Arc, 87, 103.
Joppa, 287.
Jordan, 308.
Josephine, 87, 95, 106, 109.
Joseph's Well, 243.
Julian Aqueduct, 216.
Killarney, 75.
King of the forest. 111.
King's chamber in the Pyramid, 275.
Kiosks, 247.
Knights of Malta, 222, 223.
Knights of St. John, 373.
Kohinoor diamond, 37.
Lace-manufactory, 113.
Ladies of Damascus, 351.
Lady Ellenhorough, 355.
Lake Avernus, 212.
Lake Leman, 124.
Lake Merom, 338.
Lake Mcerotis, 283.
Lake Neufchatel, 123.
Lakes, Scotland, 69.
Lander, Miss L., 175.
La Vallière, 102.
Leaning Tower, 136.
Leaving Athens, 393.
Leaving Balbec, 364.
Leaving Damascus, 356.
Leaving Jerusalem, 320.
Leaving Joppa, 289.
Leaving Rome, 177.
Leo Capo, 191.
Liverpool, 22.
Loch Lomond, 68.
London, 26.
London, magnitude of, 36.
London, manners and customs, 50.
Lord Lyons, 224.
Lord Nelson, 39.
Louis XIV., 102, 105, 106.
Lous XV., 105.
Louis XVI., 82.
Louvre, 99.
Lydda, 290.
Lyons, 131.
Madame de Maintenon, 104, 109.
Madame de Sévigné, 103.
Madame de Staël, 124.
Madelaine, 80.
Malmaison, 95.
Malta, 222.
430
INDEX.
Mamertine Prisons, 160.
Manchester, 2.3.
Manchester Exhibition, 22.
Maria Theresa, lOö.
Marie Antoinette, 82, 84, ICQ, 103.
Marie de Medicis, 87, 100.
Marriage procession, Cairo, 279.
Marseilles, 132.
Martin Luther, 118.
Mary of the Little Table, 411.
Mary, Queen of Scots, 62.
Mary's Bower, 52.
Massacre of St. Bartholomew, 82, 99.
Mausoleum, Hadrian's, 168.
McNeil, Dr., 33.
Mediterranean, 133, 219.
Melrose Abbey, 66.
Mer de Glace, 127, 128.
Mersey, 22.
Messina, 220.
Michael Angelo, 139.
Missionary, Baptist, 314.
Missionaries at Athens, 388.
Missionaries at Beyroot, 369.
Missionary school, Cairo, 239, 255.
Missions at Damascus, 355.
Mitylene, 393.
Mohammedans, 355.
Mokkatan Hills, 251.
Monastery of Benedictines, 217.
Monastery of St. Saba, 305.
Mont Blanc, 125.
Montmorenci, 94.
Mosque Amr, 248.
Mosque of Mohammed Ali, 240.
Mosque of Ommiades, 349.
Mosque of St. Sophia, 398.
Mosque of Sultan Hassan, 240.
Mountains of Judea, 291.
Mountains of Lebanon, 344, 357, 365.
Mount Carmel, 333.
Mount Gerizim, 325.
Mount Hermon, 335, 337, 338, 340,
354.
Mount of Beatitudes, 334.
Mount of Olives, 292, 318.
Mount Olivet, 292.
Mouth of Labanus, 344.
Muckross Abbey, 76.
Mummies, 256.
Munich, 414.
Museo Borbiano, 198.
Nain, 328.
Naples, 179.
Napoleon, 1., 106, 108, 109.
Napoleon 11., 406.
Napoleon's room. Louvre, 100.
Napoleon's throne-room, 86.
National Gallery, London, 29.
Nazareth, 331.
Neapolitan omnibus, 183.
Nebbu Mousa, 307.
Neckar, 125.
.Nero's Golden House, 169.
Nice, 133.
Nilometer, 272.
Notre Dame, 81.
Omri, King of Israel, 326, 327.
Orleans' Monumental Chapel, 96.
Palace, Belvidere, 405.
Palace, Chatsworth, 52.
Palace, Cry.stal, 48.
Palace, Ducal, Florence, 138.
Palace, Munich, 415.
Palace, Pitti, 138.
Palace de Thermes, 96, 97.
Palace of King Otho, 390.
Palace of Luxembourg, 85.
Palace of the Pasha, 233, 243,247.
Palaces of the Sultan, 397
Palais Scampagnati, 183.
Palatine Hill, 171.
Palazza Corsini, 163.
Palazzo Balbi, 134.
Palazzo de Medicis, 138.
Palazzo Real, 135.
Palazzo Tiberio, 192.
Palm Sunday, Jerusalem, 318.
Pantheon, Paris, 88.
Pantheon, Rome, 149.
Park, Regent's, 34.
Parliament-House, Brussels, 114.
Parthenon, 385.
Pasha's carriage, 280.
Pasha's son, 281,
Passau, 412.
Patmos, 374.
Pauline Bonaparte, 164.
Pectoral, 269.
People of Constantinople, 395.
People of Munich, 420.
People of Naples, 183.
Pepin le Bref, 83.
Père la Chaise, 95.
Pesth, 402.
Pcterwnrdein, 402.
Petit Trianon, 105.
INDEX.
4
Dctrifieil forest, 2G1.
Piedmont, 133.
l'iiiouf, 378.
Pisii, 136.
P.»ins of Jczrecl, 328.
PI 11 Ins of Mamre, 301.
Polyeiirp, 376.
Pompeii, 201, 202.
Pouipey's Pillar, 231, 282.
Pool of Bcthesda, 296.
Pools of Siloara, 318.
Pope Pius IX., 151.
Porters, 228, 229.
Posilippo, 210.
Powers' Greek Slave, 23.
Powers' studio, 140.
Prussian Sisters of Charity, 316.
Puteoli, 208.
Pyramid de Glaee, 129.
Pyramid of Waterloo, 112.
Pyramids, Egypt, 271.
Quarry at Balbec, 364.
Queen Elizabeth's Boom, 37.
Queen Josephine, 87.
Queen Marie Antoinette, 82, 84, 85.
Queen of the Netherlands, 70.
Queen Victoria and family, 45.
Ramaz.an, 348, 396.
Kamla, 289.
Rev. Dr. Porter, 355.
Rev. Mr. Leider, 239.
River Inn, 413.
Rock of Tiberius, 195.
Uoeoromana, 208.
Roman reservoirs, 216.
Rome, 143.
Rosenheim, 413.
Rose of Sharon, 289.
Ro.^lyn Castle, 63.
Ri iss Island, 75.
Roiis.-eau, SO, 94.
Route to C.airo, 235.
Route to France, 77, 79.
Route to Rome, 142.
Royal Academy, London, 30.
Royal Glass-Factory, Munich, 417.
Rydal Mount, 59.
Sabbath, 28, 410.
Sackarite, 266.
Safed, 337.
Sainte Chapelle, 85.
Samuel, 321, 323.
Saul's birthplace, 321.
Savoy, 131.
Scala Regia, 156.
Seala Santa, 148.
Scenery of the Desert, 214.
Schönbrunn, 407.
Schönbrunn Palace, 409.
Sculpture-Gallery, Munich, 414.
Sebaste, Ancient Samaria, 326.
Section of the Pyramids, 274.
Servants, 248.
Sharon, 289.
Shechem, 325.
Sheiks of Palestine, 310.
Shiloh, 322.
Siloam, 296.
Sir Christopher Wren, 39.
Sir John Moore, 39.
Sir Walter Raleigh, 37.
Sir Walter Scott, 64.
Sistine Chapel, 151.
Smyrna, 375.
Soignes, 113.
Solomon's Pools, 302.
Solomon's Quarry, 317.
Sources of the Jordan, 340, 343.
Sphinx, 275.
Spurgeon, 32.
Stadium, 389.
Statue of America, 174, 175.
Statue of Bavaria, 418.
Statue of Freedom, 175.
Statue of Julius Cœsar, 157.
Statue of Marshal Ney, 88.
St. Catharine's Wheel, 65.
St. Denis, 83.
St. Genevieve, 88.
St. Germaine, 81.
St. James' Park, 30.
St. Jerome, 298.
St. Paul's Bay, 226, 227.
St. Paul's Cathedral, Malta, 228.
St. Peter's, 144.
St. Roche, 82.
St. Stephen's Church, 254.
Steamboat, Italian, 140.
Steamship, Great Iron, 39.
Storm, 64.
Suburbs, Cairo, 258.
Sulphutarea, 217.
Sultan's wives, 395.
Syra, 377.
Tarquín, 214.
Telescope, Lord Rosse's, 73.
432
IKDÉX.
Tumplc of ^olus, 3S7.
Temple of Erectheum, 386.
Temple of Galileo, 139.
Temple of Jupiter Serapis, 216.
Temple of Olympus, 379.
Temple of the Sibyl, 167.
Temple of the Sun, 359.
Temple of Theseus, 381.
Tent-life, 320.
Terra damnata, 295.
Thames Tunnel, 38.
The Eight Old Olive-trees, 295.
The Good Samaritan, 312.
The Great Globe, 43.
The Hill of Offense, 297.
The Queen and Royal Family, 45.
The Reformers, 122, 126.
The Rhine, 117, 422.
The Tower, London, 36.
Three Taverns, 159.
Tiberias, 334.
Tiberius, 190.
Tivoli, 164.
Tomb of Amr, 250.
Tomb of Cardinal Richelieu, 97, 100.
Tomb of Napoleon, 90.
Tomb of Pompey, 172.
Tiynb of Virgil, 212.
Tombs, Cairo, 260.
Tombs of Caliphs, 244.
Tombs of Martyrs, 67.
Tombs of Nicodemus and Joseph, 294.
Tombs of the Judges, 320.
Tombs of the Scipios, 159.
Trafalgar Square, 26.
Trajan's Column, 149.
Tuilerii s, 98.
Tussaud's Wax Figures, 46.
Valetta, Malta, 222.
Valley of Chamouni, 126.
Valley of Esdraelon, 328.
Valley of Eshcol, 300.
Valley of the Rhone, 132.
Vatican, 155.
Veils, Cairo, 260.
Venus de Medicis, 170.
Versailles, 101.
Vesuvius, 184.
Vienna, 404.
Villa Borghese, 164.
Villa of Pollio, 210.
Villa Reale, 183.
Vineyards, 179.
Virgil, 210.
Virginia Dare, 175.
Wagram, 404.
Wales, 27.
Water-carrier, 186.
Waterloo, 112.
Well of Joseph and Mary, 259.
Westminster Abbey, 31, 50.
Wilderness of Engedi, 305.
Wine-Market, Paris, 93.
Women of Bethlehem, 298.
Women of the East, 315.
Wordsworth's widow, 58.
Yelloks, 269.
Zeleh, 364.
TETE END.