NORTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY LIBRARY The Gift of William Deering and lyraan J« Gage Ellton, Fliuto. Oinuha. TUE II IG II SCHOOL, OMAHA. NEBRASKA, ITS ADVANTAGES, RESOURCES, AND DRAWBACKS. ILLUSTBATED. BY EDWIN A. CURLEY, SPECIAL COMMISSIONER FROM " THE FIELD " TO THE EMIGRANT FIELDS OF NORTH AMERICA. NEW YOEK: THE AMERICAN AND FOREIGN PUBLICATION COMPANY, 137, EIGHTH STREET. THE AMERICAN NEWS COMPANY, NASSAU STREET. 1875. l^All rights reserved.~\ Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, in Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, by Edwin A. Curley, CHISWICK PRESS I PRINTED BY WHITTINGHAM AND WILKINS, TOOKS COURT, CHANCERY LANE, LONDON. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Chapter Page I. Emigration ........ 1 II. American Immigration ; its Past, Present, and Future . 23 III. The Geography of Nebraska ; How to Get There . . 40 IV. The City of Omaha ...... 53 V. Statistical . . . . . . . .74 VI. Statistical ........ 80 VII. Climatic Considerations ...... 100 VIII. The Surface Geology of Nebraska. (By Prof. S. Aughey, Ph.D.) ...... 114 IX. The same (continued) ...... 126 X. On the Platte and the Elkhorn ..... 140 XI. On the Elkhorn and the Logan . . . .160 XII. The Missouri to the Niobrara . . . . .170 XIII. On the Platte and the Loup ..... 177 XIV. The History of Nebraska. (By Oscar A. Mullon, Esq.) 187 XV. On the Weeping Water and the Neniabas . . . 200 XVI. Otoe County. (By Dr. John H. Blue) . . . 208 XVII. Up the Salt River ....... 223 XVIII. Some Regions of the Blues ..... 234 XIX. On the Headwaters of the Blues .... 245 XX. South Central Nebraska ...... 254 XXI. South Central Nebraska (continued) .... 265 XXII. The Hateful Locust 277 vi TABLE OF CONTENTS. Chapter Page XXIIL Forty-three thousand square miles .... 300 XXIV, The Wild Fruits of Nebraska. (By Prof. S. Aughey, Ph.D.) 316 XXV. Timber and Fuel 336 XXVI. Fences . 350 XXVII. Pástoral Marvels ...... 361 XXVIII. Pastoral Marvels (continued) .... 378 XXIX. Associate and Co-operative Colonization . . . 395 XXX. Land 410 Notes on Changes in Steamship Lines . . . 430 Index ........ 431 LIST OF MAPS. Map I. Key Map of Nebraska II. North-Eastern Nebraska III. South-Eastern Nebraska IV. Geological Map V. South Central Nebraska VI. North Central Nebraska VII. South-Western Nebraska VIII. Western Nebraska Page facing I . 2 pages, following 32 .2 „ 48 . 3 „ 128 . 2 „ 192 . 3 „ 288 . 2 „ 304 . 2 „ 368 LIST OF PLATES. Plate Page I. The High School, Omaha .... facing title II. Panorama of Omaha . . 3 pages, following 64 III. View in Omaha from the Union Pacific Railway facing 56 IV. Post Office and Creighton Block, Omaha . . ,, 62 V. Part of Nebraska City from the Upland . . „ 208 VI. Panorama of Fairmont . . . . • 242 VII. View of Plum Creek . . . . . 274 VIII. View of North Platte . . . . . 306 IX. View of Sidney . . . . . . „ 312 X. Wild Fruits of Nebraska. (1, 2. Prunus Americana; 3, 4. Prunus Chicasa ; 5. Prunus Pumilla.) 2 pages following . . , . . . . 317 XI. Wild Fruits of Nebraska. (1. Prunus Pumilla ; 2. Fragaria Virginiana . . . . . . facing . 324 XII. Wild Fruits of Nebraska. Shepherdia Argentia (the Buffalo Berry) ...... facing 330 PREFACE. HIS is the hour of heterogeneous handbooks, crude con¬ coctions of petty local oflScials who have studied no stand¬ ards, and cannot correctly compare with other lands that which they unwisely attempt to describe ; it is the time of trashy travels, consisting of the tittle-tattle of the train, the table, and the tap, illustrated with old maps and borrowed engravings, and made to sell ; it is the period of pamphlets on the pre¬ tensions of Paraguay, the productions of Patagonia, the potable refuse of Pachino, and the ponderous ores of Panicocoli—pamphlets with a purpose, and most generously given away ; but, nevertheless, this age of artful avarice and adroit accumulation, this era of eager enterprise and electric energy, is better than the best before it : if it has freely given its gold to the few, it has also done much for the moiling many ; it highly appreciates painstaking, persevering, and intelligent and useful work, which it well requites ; or, if it may not mete the full measure of mani¬ fold merits from its own magnificent means, it sometimes anticipates the judgment of future generations, and by a patent process, first applied in this epoch, it draws a series of bills which will be duly honoured by posterity. London, Aug. 1875. \ N E B R A s CHAPTER 1. EMIGEATION. Its immense social and political power.—Milk and lioney.—Robbers and pirates.—Trojans and Romans.—^Dido and the Quakers.—Philology. —Migration an imperative necessity.—Happiness the one test.—A king on the safety valve.—Colonial Commerce.—France and Canada.—A sub¬ stantial increase.—No better than we should be.—Reprehensible com¬ binations.—Malthus.—Lancashire operatives.—^Public opinion.—Ameri¬ can influence.—Curious calculations.—Teutonic tribute.—Subjects and cattle.—The luxury of the poor.—Lean kine and fat.—A medicine for militarism.—Germany cannot restrain emigration, and is now haggling in the man-market.—An autocrat anxious.—" The coon comes down."— National depletions.—Folly in France.—Spanish Americans not true emi¬ grants.—Bad laws and bad customs as a labour and money question.— Coal and iron.—What is, not what ought to be, the rule for the emigrant. —Political pickles.—Mocha at a discount.—^Dear laws.—How to mea¬ sure money and men.—Freedom.—Intelligent emigration a certain cure for real grievances. N the following pages, I shall treat of the advantages, resources, and drawbacks of Nebraska, principally with reference to the one great topic of enaigration, to some of the general aspects of which I have devoted this first introductory chapter. B SVAKSTCH, I'LL ' z' 2 NEBRASKA. E-migration is, and ever has been, a tremendous though comparatively silent force, giving birth to nations,, and shaping their destinies. History is full of wars, and the various tyrannical acts and conspira¬ cies which have generally done duty in the place of statesmanship; but he who has never thought of the subject in that light before, will, on taking a compre¬ hensive survey, be perfectly astonished to find how much of the military and political history of the world has been made or marred by the slowly acting force of emigration. When the eleven remaining sons of Israel found that they had a friend at court, they emigrated to Egypt, and when " there arose a king that knew not Joseph," their children took the earliest opportunity of re-emigrating to " a land flowing with milk and honey." The Greeks were a barbaric race of emigrants, like our own ances¬ tors, to a great extent of the robber and pirate varieties. They became civilised, and sent forth organized colo¬ nies, the history of whose beginnings may still be studied for instructive examples. They destroyed Troy, and, in a distant land, Rome arose, ultimately to de¬ stroy them. Carthage, the great rival , of Rome, was an offshoot of Tyre, and its founder is said to have ob¬ tained of the natives the site of the city by an artifice, afterwards adopted with variations and improvements by some of the Quakers in Pennsylvania. Ear back in the past, beyond the authentic history of many peoples, the new science of philology takes us, and shows us the kinship, the former oneness of distant peoples, and con¬ sequently that in the progress of the world they have been sundered by emigration. EMIGRATION. 3 Reason and analogy teach us that emigration is a matter of necessity. The young man must leave his father's house ; there is not always a suitable opening in the same village, and he must go to another, or per¬ haps to a distant county. Migrations, to a greater or less distance, are the rule rather than the exception of life in the United Kingdom; and between migration and emigration there is no essential difference in prin¬ ciple. In either case, the question to be solved before making a move is whether, all things considered, we are likely to obtain for ourselves, and those dependent upon us, any real advantages, any solid happiness, or any decrease of evils beyond what we might expect if re¬ maining in the house, hamlet, city, county, or kingdom in which we were born. Two hundred and fifty years ago emigration began to take from England considerable numbers of persons of various classes, whose condition, under the wise laws of our ancestors, made them more or less dangerous to the then existing order of things. In a few years it had gained a great impetus. The king seems to have measured his power in some degree by the number of subjects within reach of his arm, and therefore to have stopped some of the emigrants by force. This was like sitting on the safety-valve to be able to utilize the greater amount of steam. One of the men thus retained in the kingdom against his will, became chief of the revolution which followed, and he was afterwards more than monarch of the realm. It is impossible to say how few or how many of those who were most violent opponents of the acts of the king would have gone to 4 NEBRASKA. America had they been free to do so, but it is quite possible that the nature of the resistance would have been materially modified ; and that, instead of the intensity of pássion which prevailed, we should have had a slower, surer, and more thoughtful resistance. This would not have thwarted the king as quickly as the revolution beheaded him, nor would it have put a still more powerful despot of a different character in his place. The revolution took about fifty years to establish any substantial good for the people of England, and one may fairly hold the opinion that the rights of the people, as well as the blood and treasure of the nation and the head of the king, would have been far safer if the attractions of New England had been allowed to prevail over a large number of those who became leaders of the revolution. Notwithstanding the numerous checks that coloniza¬ tion received from natural and artificial causes, the pobtical and social influence of the emigration of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries can hardly be over-estimated. The year 1776 found the revolting American colonies with a population of about three millions, wholly the result, directly or indirectly, of emigration. The population of England at that time was about seven millions. The emigration had been mostly from the middle classes, with a sprinkling of labourers taken over by their masters, or carried over by speculators, and sold into a sort of slavery, and of mechanics who had managed to save a little store for their dangerous and rather expensive voyage. From the fact, among others not so much to their credit, that they knew and appreciated at something like their just EMIGRATION. 5 value many of the rights to which they were entitled, and which were ignored or persistently refused, many of these people would have been sources of serious danger to the government of them times if they had re¬ mained at home. The amount of that danger is not to be measured by their number, but by their character, and by the influence which they would have been likely to exert over their fellow-subjects. When they left England their places were filled by others whose position was in consequence materially improved, and who, feeling this improvement, were much less discontented subjects than they otherwise would have been. Commerce with the colonies brought wealth to the manufacturers and merchants, and in¬ directly to the landowners and the farmers ; and as employers had, in a measure, to bid against the great attractions of the colonies, the material condition of all classes but the very lowest was decidedly improved by that emigration upon which many influential persons looked with the greatest disfavour. It is difficult to imagines the extent of the difference in the condition of the lower, middle, and working classes which would have been produced if the ranks of the shopkeepers, mechanics, and labourers had con¬ stantly become more and more overstocked by the competition of these emigrants and their descendants. Under wise laws there might have been room for four times the population, but wise laws are very difficult to obtain even now, and in those circumstances they would have been most unlikely with the aid of revolution, and utterly impossible without it. Turning to the condition of France at the present 6 NEBRASKA.. time, we may obtain some erade idea of the probable results of a permanent non-emigration policy in Eng¬ land. That country was wealthier, and in many re¬ spects more favoured than this; it was also far more advanced in the arts and sciences. England's supe¬ riority, partly the result of her insular position, was almost entirely confined to the sea. But this supe¬ riority of England at sea was a check upon French emigration, and, about the middle of the eighteenth century, the conquest of the great French colony of Canada, by a British imperial and colonial army, virtually destroyed it. In that country, in the mean¬ time, as the population increased, the working classes were more and more at the mercy of those above them, and the share of the fruits of their labour which they obtained became less and less. They could only manage to exist fii'om hand to mouth, and combination for better pay would have been very generally un¬ successful, even if there had been no terribly repressive laws to insure abject submission. Their misery passed the limit of endurance, and everybody knows that the great French revolution was the result, and that the vibrations of that terrible political earthquake have not yet ceased to shake the earth. It is easy to point to many shortcomings of the people as well as of the rulers of France, and to imagine that these were prime causes of the revolution ; but a more careful scrutiny will show that the facts were otherwise. Power is blind, stupid, and self-seeking in aU other countries as weU as there, and the majority of any people which feels the iron heel of oppression is both EMIGRATION. 7 deceitful and impatient. That the faults essentially French, to which it is fashionable to attribute the revo¬ lution in that country, are really non-existent, can be plainly seen by comparison with the French Canadians, who undoubtedly possess all of the essentials of the French character. They and their brethren in the United States are about a million and a half in number, and the descendants of less than ten thousand original emigrants. They have felt little oppression, and they are a people as patient and as contented with them generally humble circumstances as any other population under like conditions on the face of the earth. Nor can it be attri¬ buted to the inherent vices of Koman Catholicism, or its injurious eifects on the French character, for this religion has had freer scope among the Canadians than among the people of France. No one who carefuUy examines and compares the whole circumstances can doubt that a large and constant stream of emigration from France would infallibly have ameliorated the con¬ dition of the humbler classes, enabling them to cope in a regular manner with the power of those above them, and that it would thus have been a force sufficient to have changed for the better the whole history of France for the last hundred years, possibly preventing the revolution, and at any rate depriving it of many of its horrors, and benefiting in a general way the blind oppressors quite as much as the people oppressed. It is no doubt very gratifying to that self-love which we are apt to miscall patriotism to attribute to the English race and nation very special capacities for progress and self-government, but our self-glorification 8 NEBRASKA. in these respects can only proceed from ignorance of the comparative disadvantages under which our neigh¬ bours have laboured, or from something still worse. If we examine our political history without prejudice, we shall find that our kings have seldom been very brilliant specimens of humanity. Our nobles have not often been gifted with remarkable political foresight, and the wisdom of our squirearchy and the self-denial of our bishops and beneficed clergy have never been so great as to become proverbial among the nations of the earth. Until very recent times these have been our gover¬ nors ; they have resisted aU improvements which inter¬ fered with their pet privileges, and they have never yielded while there was a chance of standing out with success. Even with all the strength which our vast emigration has lent to the rights of the poorer classes, the rulers have frequently resisted change till we were upon the brink of a civil war. Xor can we maintain that the middle classes, which are now the foundations of power, are in any respect more unselfish and politi¬ cally wise than those above them, except in so far as contact and conflict with the lower classes have taught them greater respect. They have never conceded to the lower orders any substantial advantage which the latter were not in a position to exact as the price of service or co-operation; and indeed it would be no more reasonable to expect it than to expect that indi¬ vidual masters who are making heavy profits should hasten to divide them with their employés without pres¬ sure or hope of any reward beyond the great social and EMIGRATION. 9 political advantage that unselfishness would confer upon the community at large. In fact we see among them organizations in restraint of liberty and justice, and combinations to monopolize profits or other advantages, which, considering the position and circumstances of the members, are far more reprehensible than any trades union of the labouring classes. It is thus very evident that in England, as elsewhere, without emigration the blind selfishness of power would have overreached itself in all directions, and have crushed the lower orders till it prepared a terrible catastrophe for the nation. The working men could not rigidly and universally apply among themselves the doctrines of Malthus, of which they knew nothing ; from wholesale infanticide they would ever shrink with horror, and re¬ volution, or these impossibles, would have been the only alternatives to starvation or slavery. The greatest 'example of that unselfish regard for the right, which is the foundation of true political wisdom, that we can boast of, was that afforded by the poor operatives of Lancashire, in the earnest sympathy and moral support which they accorded to the American people in their death-struggle with slavery ; and, broadly speaking, it will be found that, numerous errors of ignorance or misapprehension notwithstanding, a true political instinct resides with the working masses of the people; the amelioration of whose condition by all reasonable means is as definite and real an advantage to their superiors as it is to themselves. It. is mainly through the silent working of emigration that commerce has recently attained such enormous 10 NEBRASKA. proportions, and that public opinion is gradually be¬ coming stronger than armies, and more powerful than governments. The commerce of the existing colonial dependencies of the European States is very great, and these colonies exercise a very definite influence on the public opinion of the world through their connection with the parent States. But the American Union was so recently a wilderness, that its forty millions of people may, without a very great stretch of imagination, be considered as a nation of emigrants, whose public opinion is brought into most intimate contact with all civilized nations, and is universally felt. Germany has no colonies of her own, but in every hamlet of that country are relatives and friends of citizens of the great republic, who are frequently receiving thence letters and papers from happy and prosperous emigrants. Through the various influences thus created the action of the most powerful and stubborn government of Europe is more sensibly affected than by any other external agency, if we except only the warlike array of some of its neighbours. For Germany, emigration is not less important than for England, and in the end it is not unlikely to mould the government to the popular will without the aid of a revolution. Notwithstanding their friendly attitude to the United States, German rulers fear and dislike emigration for many reasons. Its action on the people remaining at home is by no means alto¬ gether approved-; from an economical point of view they consider it a great loss to the country, and worst of all, it takes no inconsiderable portion of the grist from the mill of the army. EMIGKATION. 11 Dr. Engel, Director of the Prussian Statistical Bureau, has considered the subject of emigration from the point of view of political economy. He assumes that on the average a man is worth to the country as much as he will cost to produce. He does not tell us how much Germany lost on this score in packing off the King of Hanover, and in her numerous emigrant princelings, but he deals at once with the manual labourer, whose life he divides into three periods ; fifteen years of unpro¬ ductive youth, fifty years of labour, and the balance of life a period of unproductive senility. Whether or not the child in his first period lives at the expense of his parents, there must be means for his maintenance and education, which means are the result of labour. The productive period (1) should repay the expenses in¬ curred by parents or others in the juvenile period ; (2) should satisfy the daily wants and maintain the produc¬ tive power of the individual ; (3) should produce a sur¬ plus fund for sustenance during the aged period. Thus the cost of bringing up and educating a man constitutes a specific value which benefits that country which the adult individual makes the field of his exertions. Dr. Engel computes the cost of producing a manual labourer in Germany, at an average for both sexes, of forty thalers a year for five years, fifty thalers a year for five years more, and sixty thalers a year for the third term of five years, with which he completes the period of un¬ productive youth. He thus arrives at a total cost, and therefore, according to his theory, a total average value of seven hundred and fifty thalers for the manual labourers of Germany, considered as working animals, 12 NEBRASKA. and this sum of about one hundred and twelve pounds ten shillings sterling he reckons as the correct measure of the country's loss by the departure of an emigrant, irrespective of the amount of money or goods which he takes to the new field of his labours. According to Engels theory, this sum increased by the extra per¬ centage of the cost of sound males above the general average of the sexes would also measure the value of any such emigrants as food for gunpowder. Taking the figures of Dr. Engel as our basis, and adding one hun¬ dred and twenty-five thalers as the minimum amount representing the cost of the passage, goods, and clothing of each emigrant, and the money taken by him,^ we find on reference to American statistics that the total German emigration to the United States is a tribute worth in Germany about three hundred and fifty millions sterling. The annual average of this tribute for the four years immediately preceding the Franco-German war was very nearly sixteen millions sterling, and it bids fair to reach tweiity-five millions in a very few years. Dr. Engel's book gives expression and definite shape to an idea fixed in the Prussian of&cial mind, an idea which has long influenced the acts of the Government, and which is now being pushed further than ever before. It is even said that Prince Bismarck had formed the intention of increasing year by year the restrictive action of the government until emigration should prac¬ tically cease ; but, bold as the German government may 1 This sum of one hundred thalers, exclusive of passage, is based on statistics obtained with great care by the Commissioners of Immigration at New York. EMIGRATION. 13 be, it is not likely tbat it will venture to carry out its theories to any such dangerous extreme. Notwithstanding the very high authority of Dr. Engel, and any conclusions to which a government so astute as that of Germany may have arrived, it is not too much to say that this theory is utterly fallacious, and that very little unbiassed consideration is needed to demonstrate the fact. The theory assumes, in the first place, that German subjects, like German cattle, come -into the world in obedience to a definite law of supply and demand, that each German is born because he is in some degree wanted, not merely by his parents, but in an economical sense by the nation at large. The actual facts are very diiferent. The child is born to gratify the natural desires of his parents, or else he is, so to speak, an accident of life, which they lack either the inclination, knowledge, power, or resolution to prevent. Once in the world, the affection or duty of his parents induces them to make very substantial sacrifices for the purpose of giving him such advantages as they can command, and from his birth to his manhood, questions of profit or loss to themselves, or of State economy, have no more to do with the matter than the law or other cir¬ cumstances compel. Children are, in fact, the one great luxury of the poor, which the State can neither regulate nor prohibit. Under these circumstances the actual supply of will¬ ing hands is very much in excess of the home demand for reasonably rewarded labour, and notwithstanding whatever it may have originally cost, this excess, if re- 14 NEBRASKA. tained at home, would be an element of trouble, ex¬ pense, and positive danger. The economical value of the subjects of a government depends quite as much upon quality as upon number, and any surplus of popu¬ lation deteriorates the rest much more than any benefit its retention can possibly confer. It is as if a farmer with sufficient pasture and forage for a hundred head of cattle should insist upon keeping a stock of a hundred and twenty, in which case the six score will be found to be worth less in the market than four score bred under proper conditions. Owing in some degree to State interference with the liberty of the subject, and to various other causes which tend to restrict emigration from Germany, its amount is probably somewhat less than what might fairly be considered the increase of surplus population. If so, the total amount of emigra¬ tion is on economical as well as other grounds an advantage to the State. It is true that every man who escapes military ser\ice by emigration renders it more irksome to those that re¬ main, and that the influence of the republican ideas im¬ bibed by the emigrants is so strong upon the people at home, as to give some concern to the government, but these are evils which a semi-constitutional militarism must perforce endure, or risk others still worse ; they are evils which the Majority of thinkers will look upon as having the nature of medicines ; a species of blessing in disagreeable guise. Just as this work is going to the press, the telegraph teUs us that the various ministerial departments in Berlin are engaged in making inquiries in order to re- EMIGRATION. 15 move as much as possible the causes leading to emigra¬ tion. The plan under consideration is to enable the peasants to become landed proprietors, by the division into small allotments of certain State domains, and by thus ameliorating the condition of the people of the agricultural districts to counteract the inducements said to be held out by agents in the pay of Transatlantic governments.^ This is undoubtedly the truth, if not the whole truth, and the bare consideration of such a democratic measure for such a purpose is a very strik¬ ing illustration of the political and social influence of emigration. Emigration conflicts very Strongly with the mihtary spirit. By raising the price of wages, and making a large and eflective army a very expensive machine, it has done much to place England in a reserved attitude in respect to foreign politics, and its tendency will be found the same everywhere else. The vast extent of the undeveloped resources of Russia might well tax the energies of her government, and of a much larger population than the empire at present possesses. But recently the government has become concerned—alarmed would perhaps be the better word—at the steady, settled, persistent emigration of a comparatively well-to-do and very worthy body of 1 It seems to be thought convenient to speak of the efforts of paid agents as the chief causes of emigration, but as a matter of fact the para¬ mount influence is that of successful emigrants, through private letters and pecuniary assistance to friends left in the fatherland. Agents could have very little influence, and that of the most transient character, were they not able to appeal to very substantial facts. 16 NEBRASKA. people—the Mnenonites, a religious sect, objecting to military service. These people, after explorations of large portions of the United States by trusted members, have commenced settlements in Nebraska, and other parts of the far West, and there was no telling how many of the Russian people would eventually follow the example of these successful pioneers. It is now stated, on what appears to be good authority, that a ukase has been issued giving this sect a special exemp¬ tion from military service, in hopes of thus checking the movement. In Russia this exemption, as everywhere on the Continent, is an important boon; it gives the Mnenonites a great advantage over their fellows, makes them a farmer and peasant aristocracy, in fact, and tends greatly to augment their numbers at the cost, from the point of view of the government, of a very considerable mischief. How else but by emigration could a body of the people, comparatively so insignifi¬ cant, have so influenced a government like that of Russia ? Yet depletion through emigration difiers essentially in an economical as well as in a humanitarian point of view, from depletion by war or by an epidemic. A hundred thousand emigrants leave an over-populated country, and by so doing confer a benefit on the people remaining. But, if from a hundred thousand like people those who are suitable are selected and made the victims of war, the financial loss of the country is great, definite, and tangible, for the strong only are taken and the weak remain a more or less direct burden to the State. An epidemic takes both the strong and the weak, but it EMIGRATION. 17 often breaks down many whom it does not destroy, and it has a tendency to derange trade and to demoralize the whole population. Imagine emigration from the British Isles to cease next year, and the cholera to take its place. Long before such a vast number of people were taken away, the nation would be in a terrible panic, a large proportion of its labour would cease, and every¬ thing would be out of joint. In France, at the present time, the number of births is artificially limited to such an extent that notwith¬ standing the very nominal amount of emigration there has been no very considerable increase of population for many years, no surplus of a character which need agitate the mind of a true economist or of a genuine statesman at the head of affairs; and therefore those who have suffered death, mutilation, incarceration, or banishment in the recent war and troubles of France are the greater loss to the country. Since the German war, and the terrible persecutions of the lower classes of the principal cities, partially as a revenge for the less fiightful excesses of the Commune, the population of the provinces remaining to France has, according to the best authorities, sensibly decreased. This is not the time or place to enter into a review of the doctrines of Malthus, but if there were a mode¬ rate annual surplus of population in France, and a corresponding and constant stream of emigration, the chances of good government would be far greater. Constant communications from abroad would create a moderate and wholesome agitation, geographies and histories would be more or less studied, books of travel c 18 NEBRASKA. would be sometimes read, and foreign correspondence would occasionally find its way into the most unpretend¬ ing of newspapers. Tbe stagnation of the peasants' minds would gradually diminish; they would be less and less like their own sheep, the defenceless victims of the policy of others ; cowps-d^état and revolutions alike would have less chances of success, and it might be hoped that they would eventually cease. But while the French government has continued the state of siege in a large part of the country, it has been officially doing all it could to discourage those who had begun to look to emigration as a means of relief. Comment on. such infatuation is quite unnecessary. If emigration means the removal of inhabitants from one state or country to another for permanent residence, then Spain, with all her colonies, has had very few emigrants. Her possessions in America were military conquests, and the subject races were much more numerous than the conquerors. The object of the mili¬ tary and other adventurers who went out was to en¬ rich themselves by plundering and enslaving others. Each hoped to return after a longer or shorter period to enjoy himself in his native land on the spoils of the heathen whom the Pope had delivered into the hands of true Spaniards, according to their interpretation of his bulls, as lawful subjects of conquest, slavery, and all species of violence. Whatever there was of per¬ manent residence or of legitimate labour, was looked upon as the misfortune of the unlucky. In addition to the millions of more or less civilized nations brought into subjection, large numbers of negroes were imported. EMIGRATION. 19 and slavery existed ever3rwliere. Spain derived im¬ mense pecuniary resources from her colonies, but the numerous adventurers'returning enriched by injustice, could not but demoralize still further a country whose virtues were already overshadowed by vices. Had her people gone forth true emigrants to conquer the forces of nature rather than their fellow-men, even though, as among the English and French colonies, many wrongs were committed, they would have had a great influence for good upon the parent state, and very possibly Spain might have held her own among the first nations of the world. A very interesting part of this great question of emigration is that which has to do with unequal, unjust, or inexpedient legislation. There is no nation which has not by such means banished labour and capital, for which there would otherwise have been ample room. Even the United States have in this manner from time to time driven out many millions of capital and with it a large aggregate of labour. Eng¬ lish instances are numerous and will readily suggest themselves to our readers. Many English laws at pre¬ sent existing tend to crowd the people off the island, and it is not too much to say that if by a stroke of the pen, the laws, customs, and habits of the people could be modified in accordance with the dictates of sound economy, there would at once be room in the country for a population at least one-fourth greater, to live more comfortably than we do at present. The customs of a people have the force of laws in these respects, and monetary and trade combinations have also a wide- 20 NEBRASKA. spread influence. The figures of the extra tribute that the British and foreign public recently paid to the coal and iron men are more astonishing than the French indemnity to Prussia, and there arose in consequence of this great advance in prices, a great activity in these trades abroad. They found that it would pay to build ocean steamers in America, and the profits of the coal and iron trades there, attracted such vast aggregations of capital as have already most seriously afiected the English market, by rendering the Americans in a great measure independent of it. The American iron furnaces and rolling mills are far more than adequate to the pro¬ bable consumption of the country for the present, and if the duties on pig and railroad iron and steel were abolished to-morrow, they could pay wages and profits decidedly higher than those now ruling in England, and yet successfully compete with the English ironmaster in the American market. These formidable rivals are far more the result of the recent enormous prices in Eng¬ land than that of the American protective tariflf. The amount of capital and labour eventually banished fix)m the country will be far greater than the extra profits which were obtained, and the loss will justly faU very heavily on these two particular trades. Many individuals will have made fortunes, but these trades, as a whole, will have discounted a substantial part of their brilliant future at a great disadvantage. But in considering the economical gain or loss by emigration from a particular country, with its wise or unwise laws or customs, and its trade combinations more or less proper or pernicious, we cannot say that because, but for these things there would be room for EMIGRATION. 21 ten, fifteen, or twenty per cent, more, therefore there is no surplus whose emigration would be advantageous to the state ; we must deal with the realities of the present, and make no attempt to discount a future which is now intangible, and which would very likely be rendered im¬ possible by the very fact of the adventitious surplus of population remaining in the country. In fact, if our manufacturers of political pickles colour them a copperas green, it is generally because the majority of the con¬ sumers are more fond of that verdant tint than they are fearful of poison ; and such is the force of acquired taste and habit, that I very much fear, that if our govern¬ ment grocers should turn too suddenly honest and seU us real Mocha in full weight, most of us would inconti¬ nently purchase the adulterant to mix with it, and then insist that with four ounces of chicory to the pound we had some ten per cent, better than sixteen ounces of genuine coffee. Every unwise law, custom, or combina¬ tion is an economical question of itself, to be measured as such exactly by the amount to which it tends to restrict the capacity of a country for supporting a population in comfort. Measured in this way, it will be found that more than one law has cost the United Kingdom a larger sum than the present capital of the national debt. It is possible that if statesmen would look at political and social legislation more from this pounds, shillings, and pence point of view, it would prove of great advantage to the country. The comparative surplus or deficiency of accumulated capital in any two or more countries is usually to be measured, not by its aggregate or its per capita amount, but by the normal rates of interest which severally 22 NEBRASKA. obtain under like conditions of security; and the surplus or deficiency of population is to be measured, not by numbers or density, but by the comparative advantages or disadvantages under which the people live, the pro¬ portionate amounts of their labour-capital being duly considered. In such cases, whatever the effect upon special classes, it is to the advantage of each state con¬ sidered as a whole, that freedom of trade and locomotion should be as perfect as possible, and that an equilibrium should be eventually established. Landlords, manufacturers, merchants, farmers, trades¬ men, mechanics, operatives, labourers, all classes and conditions of men in the United Kingdom have their pet grievances, for which neither class obtains very much sympathy of a practical character from the others ; but let any class thoroughly acquaint itself with terrestrial conditions otherwhere; let it become possessed of the positive knowledge that its members would be better off, aU things considered, in any other country on the globe ; let them act upon this knowledge, as sensible men wiU,—in other words, let them begin to emigrate ac¬ cordingly, and nothing is more absolutely certain than that the grievance wiU be redressed in one way or another. The facts and considerations thus shortly adduced point to a conclusion which an exhaustive examination of the subject wiU render inevitable. The discreet emigrant not merely follows the dictates of an enlightened self-interest,—^he is the benefactor of his class; and, judging by the results of his actions, he is, as a rule, a greater patriot by far than the man who dies in the wars of his country. CHAPTER II. 4.MEEICAN IMMIGEATION. American immigration, its past, present and future.—Organized and atomic immigration.—White coolies.—Terrible mortality.—Twenty per cent, slain.—Enormous improvements.—Statistics.—^Perils vanish.— Safety of steamers.—^Unpreventible accidents well-nigh impossible.—Im¬ positions upon immigrants.—" Tall " tallying.—Commissioners of emi¬ gration.—Enormous numbers of immigrants.—Injustice.—^Tremendous total of labour values.—North and south of England, Europe and America. —Further improvements expected. HE more or less carefully organized emi¬ gration wHcli founded the American co¬ lonies gradually gave place to that of detached individuals and families ; and during the whole of the last century, the arrival at an American port of two or three hundred persons in a body was an event, of great and very general interest. A large proportion of the immigrants were very poor people, who could not pay in advance for their pas¬ sage; and in order to meet the obligations thereby in¬ curred, they were sold into temporary servitude after their arrival. The shipowners derived very heavy profits from the traffic, which resembled in many re- 24 NEBRASKA. spects the much-decried coolie trade of the present day. If the parents were too old to work, or if they died on the voyage, their children had to serve so much the longer to make up the difference. Young women were bartered to their future husbands for skins, furs, to¬ bacco, and other articles of merchandise. Runaways when caught had to serve a week for each day, or six months for each month of their absence. If the master did not wish to keep his servant, he could seU him for the unexpired term of his servitude. Families were thus often separated for ever, and many children never learned when their terms had expired. The American Government intervened in 1819, and thereafter we hear no more of the traffic. The perils of the voyage, which arose principally from overcrowding, bad ventilation, and insufficient or im¬ proper food, were by no means inconsiderable. If fore¬ known, they would have deterred any but the stoutest hearts, or those who had reason to prefer lingering torture and very probable death to their then miserable condition. The first cabin of a packet a hundred years ago was scarcely more comfortable, and certainly not so well ventilated or so healthy as the steerage of a steamer of the present day; and as late as 1819, the lower deck of an emigrant vessel was little better than that of a slaver. Ten per cent, of mortality was not extraordi¬ nary, twenty per cent, was far too frequent, and there were cases in which one-third of the whole number perished. Even in very recent times, the death-rate has been more terrible than that of battles. Of 98,105 Irish emigrants shipped to Canada in the summer of AMERICAN IMMIGRATION. 25 1817, 5,293 died at sea, 8,072 at Gros Isle (quarantine) and Quebec, and about 7,000 in and above Montreal,— making a total of 20,365, besides those who afterwards perished in consequence of disease contracted on ship¬ board, and whose numbers will never be known. The estimate of American immigrant mortality in that year from the same preventible causes is 20,000, and it is probably far below the mark. Eecently the steerage accommodation of sailing vessels has been vastly im¬ proved, and the mortality is proportionately less ; but the greatest of aU advantages to the emigrant is the substitution of steamers for the vast bulk of the traffic. The general impression of the present perils of the deep is quite a mistaken one. We have by no means arrived at perfection in our precautions against ship¬ wreck and lamentable accidents at sea ; but the actual death-rate from aU causes is really very small in the steamers that ply across the Atlantic. In 1868, out of over 180,000 passengers, during 451 voyages by steam, 200 died from all causes, and allow¬ ing twelve days as the average time spent on board, this is at the rate of 38y% per 1,000 per annum ; while from among 31,953 passengers in sailing vessels, the deaths were 393, or at the rate of 148 per 1,000, allowing one month as the average length of passage and detention on board. In 1869, out of 229,290 passengers, during 504 trans¬ atlantic voyages by steam, 210 died, or 1 in 1091, which is at about the rate of 27^ per 1,000 per annum; and of 28,333 passengers in sailing vessels 138 died, or at the rate of 59 per 1,000 per annum. 26 NEBRASKA. In 1870, out of 194,088 passengers, during 484 voyages by steam, there were 155 deaths, or 1 in 1,234, which is at the rate of 243^0 1,000 per annum; and of 18,124 in 156 sailing vessels, 110 died, or 1 in 171, which is at the rate of about 70 per 1,000 per annum. In the year 1871, out of 213,698 passengers during 574 voyages by steam, there were 196 deaths; which is at the rate of about 27^ per 1,000 per annum; and out of 14,96§ passengers by sailing vessels, there were 85 deaths, which is at the rate of about 68 per 1,000 per annum. I have not the data for similar calculations for 1872 at hand ; but in 1873, out of 274,889 steerage passengers in 626 steamers, 197 died, or about 7 in 10,000, which is at the rate of about 21^ per 1,000 per annum, while of 18,367 in 96 sailing vessels, 286 died, or 155 in 10,000, which is at the rate of about 180 per 1,000 per annum. In the latter year, small-pox carried off 274 from sailing vessels. This great mortality was undoubtedly due to imperfect hospital arrangements. The average in steamers for the five years is at the rate of 28 deaths per 1,000, and in sailing vessels at the rate of 105 ; moreover, the rate in the sailing vessels is very fluctuating, in the last year being three times greater than in the second, and in the second year even having the proportions of a terrible epidemic. In the steamers, on the contrary, there is in each year, save one, a very decided decrease on the year preceding, and tiie heaviest rate is considerably below the average of many cities, while the last, which is the lightest rate, is below the healthy average of London. These statistics AMERICAN IMMIGRATION. 27 relate exclusively to steerage passengers in vessels arriving at New York. The heavy mortality on sailing vessels is not necessarily the case, and I have no doubt that bodies of emigrants chartering the whole passen¬ ger space of a sailing ship, under proper specific ar¬ rangements as to food, ventilation, &c., would be as free from disease as upon the best steamers of equal ton¬ nage crossing the Atlantic. Even then the superiority of the steamships will be immense. The number crossing the Atlantic is so large, the precautions which should be taken on the voyage are now so well known, and the size and strength and power of the vessels are so great as to give practical control over the elements, so that it is becoming well-nigh impossible for a serious unpreven- tible accident to occur in the course of a voyage, and the accidents of a preventible nature are constantly diminishing, from the greater experience of the ofiS.cers, from the care used in selecting them, and from many other causes. The amount of suffering on the part of others that we can endure before we take measures to remove it is sometimes very wonderful. The abuses of the local immigration laws in America before 1819 were as numerous as they were grave in character, and they were quite notorious; but a very considerable propor¬ tion of weU-to-do citizens were more or less interested in their continuance, and the mass of the people were very apathetic over matters whose important influence on their own. interests they did not understand. But in 1817 they were roused from their apathy. No fewer than 22,240 persons arrived in that year, and two ship- 28 NEBRASKA loads of them were sold into the slave State of Dela¬ ware. These people were very probably no worse off in their servitude than large numbers of the immigrant servants in the Northern States, but yet these trans¬ actions showed in a newer and stronger light the essen¬ tial resemblances between white immigrant servitude and negro slavery; and they caused a very painful sensation all over the country. Congress took hold of the matter ; representatives of the Southern States were very active in behalf of the immigrants; and, finally, after a very fall discussion, in March, 1819, a very strict Act, limiting the number of passengers in propor¬ tion to the size of the vessels, and providing for their proper treatment, received the signature of the President, and became the law of the land. This vastly improved the condition of immigrants; but there were numerous loop-holes still, and the pas¬ sengers were to an enormous extent the prey of ship¬ owners and brokers, and every class of harpies that knew how to take advantage of their ignorance and necessities. The greater their number, the more elabo¬ rate and extensive were the systems of fraud practised upon them, and organized robbery by force was re¬ sorted to as unscrupulously as the numerous means of hidden fraud : the chief instruments of the viUany being in almost all cases immigrants of the same nationality and class as that upon which they preyed. I have before me a vast mass of evidence of these frauds, extortions, robberies, and inhumanities ; but one or two instances will suffice to illustrate the case. A witness before a legislative committee of investiga- AMERICAN IMMIGRATION. 29 tien in 1847 says : "I was in a boarding-house (specially for emigrants) in Cherry Street. A man came up to settle his bill, which the landlord made out at $18. ' Why,' said the man, ' did you not agree to board me for M. a meal, and Zd. for a bed ? ' ' Yes,' said the land¬ lord, 'and that makes just 75 cents (about 3s. 4c?.) per day. You have been here just eight days, and that makes just $18.' " ($18 were then a little more than £4.) The landlord had possession of the man's lug¬ gage, and there was nothing for it but submission, or an amount of delay, expense, and trouble worse than the extortion itself. The local laws made the shipowners, or others who gave bonds on their behalf, responsible that the immigrants should not within a certain time become a public charge. But in these laws there were no efficient provisions for the protection of the immi¬ grants, and the shippers and their bondsmen soon found that they could establish private almshouses, or let out the destitute by contract, for one-half or one-third of the cost in a public almshouse. Such means were therefore extensively adopted, and these establishments became abominable dens of corruption, privation, and disease. A man named O'Connor, with his wife and three children, arrived at New York, and, having con¬ tracted a fever on board the vessel, was detained until his money was exhausted, and the bondsmen were applied to for relief. Recovering sooner than the other members of his family, he set out for St. Louis, where his father was comfortably settled, and, securing the necessary funds, returned with the fond expectation of accompanying his wife and children to their new 30 NEBEASKA. home. He found, however, on reaching New York that his wife was dead, and that the shippers or their bonds¬ men had sent his children to Liverpool as the cheapest way of disposing of them. One of them died on the passage, and when they arrived at Liverpool, where they had neither relatives nor friends, all trace of the two others was lost ; and the most diligent and careful search failed to give the slightest indication of their fate. These frauds, extortions, and horrors led to the formation in 1847 of the Board of Commissioners of Emigration of the State of New York, consisting of thirteen members, nine appointed by the Governor and Senate of the State, and four ex officio—viz., the mayors of Brooklyn and New York, and the presidents of the German and Irish Societies. Their duties are to pro¬ tect all emigrants landing at the port, and to care and provide for the helpless among them. They have a landing dépôt at the southern extremity of the city, and an emigrant hospital and refuge at Ward's Island, in the river a little to the east of the city, where the sick and destitute may receive shelter, food, and medical attendance for five years after arrival if neces¬ sary. After that time, if any remain or become a public charge, they are cared for by the ordinary alms¬ house authorities. At quarantine, six miles below the city, every emigrant vessel is boarded by an officer of the Commission, who makes a report of the number of passengers, the deaths (if any), makes inquiries into their general treatment and condition, and receives any com¬ plaints. The officer comes up with the vessel, and takes care that the passengers are not approached by AMERICAN IMMIGRATION. 31 any unauthorized person from the shore. After exami¬ nation of their luggage by the officers of the customs, the emigrants are transferred to the landing dépôt, where their names and aU necessary particulars are taken down. The names of such as have money, letters, or friends awaiting them are called out. There are clerks to write for them in any civilized tongue, a post- office for letters, a telegraph for more urgent despatches. The three trunk lines of railway that terminate at New York have offices in the dépôt; a certain number of brokers is admitted under stringent regulations ; a restaurant supplies plain food at moderate prices; a physician is in constant attendance for the sick. To those in search of employment it is supplied through the Labour Bureau of the establishment ; those desiring to proceed at once to their final destination are sent to the railway or steamboat ; others wishing to remain in the city are referred to boarding houses, where the charges are regulated under special licence, and which are kept under the constant and rigid supervision of the Commission. The grounds of the Commission on Ward's Island comprise over 100 acres, on which are erected exten¬ sive and well-appointed hospitals and refuge buildings, an asylum for the insane, chapels, a school house, and workshops of various descriptions, in all about forty separate edifices, at an average cost of about £5,000 each. The figures which show the operations of the Commission will compare not unfavourably with the statistics of some of the European States. I append some of the most interesting items : 32 NEBRASKA. Number of emigrants that have arrived at the port of New York and come under the charge of the Com¬ mission since its organization, from 1847 to 1872 in¬ clusive, 5,033,392 ; number of same provided and cared for out of the emigrant fund for a longer or shorter period in the course of the five years first subsequent to their arrival, up to 1872 inclusive, 1,465,579; num¬ ber treated and cared for in the institutions of the Commission, 398,643 ; number supplied temporarily with food, lodging, and money relief in the city of New York, 449,275; number provided with employment through the Labour Bureau, 349,936 ; number for¬ warded to destination or returned to Europe at their own request, 53,083 ; number relieved and provided for in various institutions of the State at the expense of the Commission, 214,642. The organization and circumstances of the Commis¬ sion have been such that it has almost entirely escaped the corruption so notorious in New York, and the protection and help it affords to the emigrants are so thorough and efficient as to leave very little to be desired, excepting that they should be entirely free of cost, like the admirable arrangements lately adopted in Boston and Philadelphia. If the care of the immigrant is purely a police regu¬ lation, as the New York Commissioners assert, and if, as is indisputable, the persons from whom he is to be protected are the permanent subjects of the local authority, then the local authority should bear the expense of that protection. It is not competent for New York to say to all comers, " My people will rob f WM^ií'A yankton MtSSOo / fílYER NORTH EASTERN note: UNITED STATES SURVEYS /i'ílí/híi vs sioux city TIu! s ou ill Sí/Ul¿/Y\ lire each arte mile or 64-0 íze.res. Co Ulf Sea/'s yo r k SarqMuZ BUaJTs Post Routes beqinuuuf » " end The figures on the routes llenóle the numbers oP iruiils per H-eek Special hfiul Supply Mail Mrssfnnt'f m topography. land surveys. civil divisions mail servi ces oe^ ne ele/J lo J"eh. J87'>. J^or more (letaileil e.cplanalions see Rook paife 1'1-S. e tc. A TOAtMSHlP enlaryed .61 LBurlington J 1457 ^ A direct route from Cincinnati to Omaha is by Indianapolis, Bloom- ington, Peoria, and Burlington, without change of cars—time, 35i hours; distance, 798 miles. " Pennsylvania Central " Route. Stations. Via Chicago. Time (from New York.) Hours. Distance (&om New York.) MUes. 90 444 913 Philadelphia 34- Pittsburg 18 Chicago 37 Omaha orPlatts- mouth— rClinton Viâ< Rocklsland V 60i 1413 LBurlington J Via St. Louis. Stations. Philadelphia Pittsburg Columbus Indianapolis St. Louis Omaha Time (from New York.) Honrs. 31: 16 25 34 45 70 Via Kansas City. Distance (from New York.) Miles. 90 444 637 825 1064 1543 II. FROM PHILADELPHIA. The lines to Omaha from Philadelphia are the "Pennsylvania Central,'* as above ; or the " Baltimore and Ohio," as next below, Baltimore being reached in 3^ hours, distance 98 miles. SOUTH EASTERN ífct/!»/TV' ÖMAHA V [ / ' I • '\^À ELLEVUE i2$üt^ NOTE UNITED STATES SURVEYS Bou/uhrüs Coiuity Scdty YORK ». P ■ —r ihr srmiU sifum r. (/re each anr /rule (1/-1/4() (irres. mnvUhB' l'est lù'fîtes htuntmituí ^ end The Ttijtii.cs ra the roules (le/ieh: the /ii/ruhers ut mails per h eck Sperúü Mail Siippty ViiU Messenoei- 21— Ütuoh TOPOGRAPHY. LAND SURVEYS. CIVIL DIVISIONS MAIL SERV I CES /'('//'( rte el la /'eh. 1875. For a/ere eh'huied r..rpla//ahon>' see Book pape 11 fí. etr LINCOLN fet/yer CnMstruf astport "-^fn Tr \ZHWi Ç\ -SoUarva - yjl / Tranm 'hBrarujfv *hjetp6 City xAouaiUi Hook* Crubdirthartl DayerijHfr '^Fairburv Cami OTOE RESERVAX-JON Cftai^auy AWia Alhinn Centre' MnuAd THE GEOGRAPHY OF NEBRASKA. 49 III. FROM BALTIMORE. "Baltimore and Ohio" Route. Via St. Louis. Via Chicago. Time Distance Time Distance (from (from (from (from Stations. Baltimore). Baltimore). Stations. Baltimore). Baltimore). Hours. Miles. Hours. Miles. Washington u 40 Washington H 40 Parkershurg 384 Bellaire ISi 376 Cincinnati^ 23i 589 Newark I7i 480 St. Louis 38 929 Chicago Junction 21 568 Omaha 63 1408 Chicago 34 839 (via Kansas City). Omaha— IV. FROM BOSTON. The lines from Boston to the "West lead through New York or Albany, by several railways, form¬ ing connections with the various through routes above named. Through connections are also made by way of Montreal. The time from Boston to New York is 7 hours ; distance, 236 miles. Boston to Albany, 6i hours ; distance, 201 miles. Boston to Montreal, 15 hours ; distance, 342 miles. Y. FROM QUEBEC. " Grand Trunk " Route. Stations. Time (from Quebec). Hours. Distance (from Quebec). Miles. Montreal II 172 Toronto 27 505 Detroit 39 763 Chicago 49 1047 Omaha— r Clinton Yia^ Rocklsland 172^ 1547 Burlington 1 A direct route to Omaha from Cincinnati is by Indianapolis, Bloom- ington, Peoria, and Burlington, without change of cars—^time 35-|. hours ; distance, 798 miles. E 50 NEBEASKA. VI. FEOM NOEFOLK. "Chesapeake and Ohio" Eoute. Via St. Louis. Via Chicago. Time Distance Time Distance (from (from (from (from N orfolk). Norfolk). Stations. Norfolk). Norfolk). Honrs. Miles. Honrs. Miles. Eichmond 4i 104 Eichmond 4a 104 Covington 16 309 Covington 16 309 (delay of 11 hours). (delay of 11 hours). Huntington 26a 525 Huntington 26a 525 Cincinnati 39 675 Take steamer to St. Louis 58a 1015 Cincinnati 39 675 (via Kansas City). Indianapolis 43i 790 Omaha 78i 1494 (via Kankakee). Chicago 51 929 ( Clinton Via-< Eock Island V Burlington Omaha 74A 1429 " Chattanooga" Eoute. Stations. Time (from Norfolk). Honrs. Distance (from Norfolk). Miles. Bristol fco o 408 Chattanooga 33 650 Nashville 40a 801 Cairo 49a 973 St. Louis 62a 1139 Omaha 87a 1618 (via Kansas City.) EATES OF FAEE TO OMAHA OE PLATTSMOUTH, NEBEASKA. 1st Class. 1875. 1875. 1874. 1873. From New York to Omaha ¿£6 16 9 $38-00 $39-50 $39-50 „ Montreal » 6 12 3 36-75 38-20 38-55 „ Boston » 7 9 3 41-85 41-50 41-50 „ Philadelphia }> 6 9 7 36-00 37-50 37-50 „ Baltimore 6 6 0 35-00 36-50 36-50 THE GEOGBAPHY OF NEBRASKA. 51 2nd Class. 1875. 1875. 1874. 1873. Erom New York to Omaha £5 12 6 $31-25 $33-25 $33-55 „ Montreal 99 5 8 0 30-00 32-00 32-30 „ Boston 99 6 6 11 35-25 37-85 38-15 „ Philadelphia 99 5 6 0 29-45 31-45 31-75 „ Baltimore 99 5 4 9 29-10 31-10 31-40 3rd Class. From New York to Omaha or Plattsmouth $23-50 ,£4 4 8 „ Montreal 99 99 25-50 • 4 11 10 „ Boston 99 99 24-50 4 8 3 „ Baltimore 99 99 21-50 ; 3 17 5 „ Philadelphia 99 99 21-80 3 18 8 Emigrant rates from Atlantic ports to Chicago fell as low as $5, or 18s, bd. ; but the above rates to Nebraska have been maintained for two or three years. The local rates for 377 miles west of Omaha are five cents per mile, and first-class only, and the fare to any point may be arrived at very closely by consulting the maps in this book. The through fares fi'om seaboard points to points west of Omaha, may be arrived at by adding local rates to those above given. There is at present no advantage in booking from England through to point of destination. Luggage is allowed to saloon passengers by the steamship companies at the rate of twenty cubic feet per adult, and ten cubic feet each for steerage passengers. Excess is charged at Is. 6d. per cubic foot; 100 lbs. luggage are allowed on American railways, and excess is charged at about fifteen per cent, of the railway fare per 100 lbs. Meals in the railway dining rooms cost fifty cents to 75 cents each (Is. lOd. to 2s. 8c?.), and seats and double berths in PuUman's drawing-room and sleeping 52 NEBRASKA. cars, New York and other ports to Omaha, cost $8, or £1 8s. 9d. each, and are allowed to first-class passengers only. In these calculations gold has been estimated as at a premium of fifteen per cent., and exchange at the true par, when it takes $5*5665 of American currency to equal a sovereign. The average rate for a year past has been somewhere about $5 40 cents to the pound sterling. From the data now given, it will be seen that, allow¬ ing eight meals between New York and Omaha at a cost of 19s. 5d.j first-class fare £6 16s. 9d., and £10 10s. for saloon passage, the lowest first-class rate from Liverpool to Nebraska is about £18 6s. 2d., or with Pullman accommodation about £19 14s. Id. ; or taking medium rate of £17 17s. Liverpool to New York, rail¬ way fare £6 16s. 9d. as before, four days stopping off at New York, Niagara Falls, Toronto, Chicago, or other points, at a cost of |5 per day (£3 12s.), and meals as before 19s. 6d., it wUl cost £29 5s. 2d. With steerage fare at £3, emigrant class by railway from Baltimore at £3 17s. bd. and a hamper of provisions at S2 (7s. 2d.) it will cost £7 4s. 7d. For anything between or above these figures the reader will find no difficulty in com¬ bining the rates for himself. If he lingers by the way stopping at the best hotels it wiU cost him 10s. 10¿í. to 18s. per day without extras, or he can stop at more common houses, often getting very nice accommodation, at 7s. 2d. per day, or he can hunt up mechanics' board¬ ing houses and stop at the rate of 18s. and upwards per week. CHAPTER lY. THE CITY OF OMAHA. Natives of Nebraska.—The softer sex.—The war.—The railways.— Geographical position.—Diagram of population.—Douglas county lands.— Paniq^^f '73.—Prospects.—Flattering appellations.—View of Omaha.— —Groves.—Army head-quarters.—Manufactures in operation'.—^Eaüway shops.—Smèlting.—^Linseed oil.—^Breweries.—Distillery.—Pork packing, —Carriages, machinery, &c.—^Brick.—Eemarkable casts in sand of a primitive forest.—Manufactures suggested.—Newspapers.—Public schools. —^Free tuition at a cost of 100 dollars a year.—View of High School.— View of Post Office.—rNed Creighton, the Omaha millionnaire.—The port of Omaha v. Dudley port.—The post-office.—The hotels.—The Pacific railway bridge.—Importations from the east.—A car load.—^Exports west. ■»—The wholesale trade.—Price fists of various commodities. ATI YE adults are scarce in Nebraska; it was unlawful to be born there before May 23, 1854, when the territory was first opened for settlement. In 1870 there were, in round numbers, 18,000 natives, 74,000 native Americans, and 31,000 persons of foreign birth in the State. The present number of natives is estimated at some 60,000. It increases on the other population in a geometrical ratio, and will soon preponderate, not¬ withstanding the immense immigration. But it will 54 NEBRASKA. long remain under the rule of the foreigner, for the first will only arrive at man's estate in 1876. The softer sex was not well represented in the earlier years of the territory ; tiU Omaha had become a con¬ siderable town, a respectable lady-like woman was almost as rare in its streets as in some rich, newly-dis¬ covered gold diggings of Australia or California. Omaha was originally " staked out" in 1854. It was the capital of the territory, and building lots rapidly went up without any substantial basis, to be knocked down again to almost nothing by the financial crisis of 1857. Immigration almost ceased, and was not re¬ sumed till after the close of the war. The population of the city in 1865 had scarcely reached 4,500 souls; but in the building of the Union Pacific Railway very large sums were necessarily disbursed at this initial point, which gave a great impetus to the growth of the city. It has now three main lines of railway communi¬ cation with Chicago, a bridge over the Missouri, the Union Pacific stretching westward a thousand miles to meet the Central Pacific, the Burlington and Missouri in Nebraska, a North-Western railroad commenced, a North and South line within eight miles on the east bank of the Missouri, connecting it with Sioux city on the north, and the whole valley of the lower Missouri on the south; and, lastly, steamboat communication through the Missouri with the whole Mississippi valley. Its population in 1870 was 16,000, and it is now about 20,000. Its geographical position is a commanding one, and the railways are rapidly increasing the extent and value of the regions that pay it tribute. THE CITY OF OMAHA. 55 In the diagram, fig. 1, the left-hand curve shows the population of Douglas county (including Omaha) from 1854 to 1874, and my estimate of its increase to 1880; while the right-hand curve shows the population of Omaha to 1870, and my estimate to 1880. The vertical scale represents the populations by thousands as indicated by figures in the margins, and the hori¬ zontal scale the years from 1854 to 1880, as indicated at the top and bottom. The little circles indicate fixed points, and other parts of the curves are mostly derived from complicated data. It will be observed that Douglas county, outside of Omaha, has very slowly increased in population since % / •ÎC' Í J / / '7f e\ V -1 }-i Vi r J '' f ' 1 Í- € {i / \ J / f •.4 oo f / / / t k ? « J iá % /, 1SS4- 1860 ises is>o ie*f- OOP mo The population of Douglas county, Nebraska, and of its county seat, O maha, from 1854. 1860. This is owing principally to the fact that nearly all of the land is held by speculators, and is allowed to lie waste. It is generally held in small lots of 160 acres and upwards, and very much of it at moderate prices; but there is no co-operation or association 56 NEBRASKA. among the owners, by which they can advertise to the public the advantages that their lands afford, and as a necessary consequence, the land buyers almost univer¬ sally go further west, to the well-advertised lands of the railway companies. Thus the great agricultural resources of the county remain undeveloped, and this must be a serious drawback upon the prosperity of Omaha. The financial panic of 1873, and the monetary stringency since, by preventing the opening-up of new routes, and by checking manufactures, has also already had much influence. When the rich lands of Douglas county, and of the other eastern counties of Nebraska more directly tributary to Omaha, become the property of actual farmers, as they must do at no distant day ; when communications are opened up with the regions on the Niobrara, and those of the North Platte country intervening; and the enterprise is well developed of manufacturing in Nebraska those articles which would be more profitably made there than they can be trans¬ ported from points further eastward ; Omaha will gain a fresh impetus, which, if her citizens are wise, will rapidly send the population up to 50,000, 60,000, and 75,000 souls. But in the present dearth of enterprise it is impossible to foretell precisely the beginning of these things ; and I have given them little considera¬ tion in estimating the population at 25,000 in 1880. Of the people of Omaha, those of the sterner sex have received the appellations of Omahawks and Oma- hogs, from their playful, imaginative, and somewhat disparaging neighbours, and that of Omahosses from too familiar friends ; while the dear ladies are Omahens THE CITY OF OMAHA. 57 or Omahussies, according to one's point of view, and the supposed character of- the individuals spoken of. Neither of these appellations is altogether appropriate to sweet, blushing eighteen, and it would seem that here the inventive genius of America is at fault. The opposite plate is a view of a portion of Omaha, from a photograph by Savage, a well-known western artist. The site is a fine one. The business portion of the city is on a level plateau ; one of the " terraces " of the Missouri, and the residences of the wealthy and the well-to-do are principally on the declivities or the brow of the bluffs beyond, and they overlook a vast extent of beautifiil country, with the Missouri river in the near distance. Shade trees abound, and many pretty views may be obtained in the city and its neighbourhood. There are many groves near Omaha where, a few years ago, there was nothing but the bare prairie. The largest comprises some fifty acres, and was bare prairie in 1856. Some rows of trees there, the earliest planted, will average more than a foot in diameter, and sixty feet high, by my own observation. These were cotton- wood cuttings. In numerous unploughed hollows there are dense young natural forests of many acres, which have sprung up since the desolating fire& have been kept out by the settlement of the country ; and the landscape now presents a striking resemblance to the more rolling parts of Devonshire. In Omaha are the head-quarters of the military de¬ partment of the Platte, which extends nearly a thousand miles westward, and from two to four hundred miles north and south. The troops and military stores for 58 NEBRASKA. this immense region are distributed from this initial point ; but the expenditure is on so small a scale, in pro¬ portion to the extent of territory, that it does not tend very largely to the aggrandisement of Omaha. In 1874 the quarter-master's department furnished trans¬ portation for 1,568 officers and men, and nearly 27,500,000 pounds of stores, and its account with the Union Pacific Eailway, including the Omaha Bridge, was a little over $400,000. Its total disbursements were about $1,150,000, and those of the paymaster's department $1,450,000. Omaha has already entered in the race as a manufac¬ turing town. The machine, foundry, smith, car, and paint shops of the Union Pacific Railway here, cover some thirty acres of ground, and give employment to a large number of men. The Omaha Smelting Works refined in 1874, in round numbers, 7,000 tons of base bullion, and smelted 2,000 tons of ore, producing gold and silver to the value of $1,350,000, and 6,500 tons of lead, worth 800,000. The Linseed-Oil Works are con¬ siderable in themselves, and important in their ten¬ dency to promote agricultural interests. They produced in 1874 about 1,000 tons of oilcake, worth $30 per ton, and 80,000 gallons of oil, worth $80,000. They have been in operation two years, and commenced by loan¬ ing flax seed to the farmers, and contracting for the produce. The enterprise is a growing and profitable one, and the farmers have found it to their advantage. But they do not utilize the fibre, a very large amount of valuable material, which goes to waste. There is room for the employment of a large amount of capital THE CITY OF OMAHA. 59 in the profitable manipulation of flax, both here and in other parts of Nebraska. There is one large flouring mill, and one biscuit manufactory. There are seven breweries, and the aggregate product for 1874 of the three largest was about 14,000 barrels. The Wülow Springs Distillery is also a large consumer of grain. The pork-packing business has been commenced by three firms, the largest of which packed 13,500 hogs in 1873. Swine are a profitable crop in Nebraska, and there is no good reason why pork-packing, and the curing of ham and bacon, should not be a very large and profit¬ able trade. There are two soap factories, and many minor establishments in which are manufactured various articles of every-day use. Carriages, "buggies," and waggons, agricultural implements, elevators, machinery, and steam engines, are manufactured on a more or less considerable scale. The manufacture of brick is carried on in proportion to the growth of the city. In visiting one of the brick¬ fields I came across some interesting fossils, fragile mementoes of a pine forest of a former age. They consisted of fine sand, preserving the grain and general appearance of the wood which it represented, and held in place only by the brick earth around them. There were trunks, roots, knots, and fruit. They were exceedingly delicate, crumbling to the touch; but I brought away some small specimens, which hardened somewhat on exposure to the air. Most of the industries that I have named are capable of very considerable extension. The transportation of agricultural implements, for instance, in which there is 60 NEBRASKA. an enormous trade, is more costly than the freightage of the raw material of which they are made. Carriages and waggons are very bulky, and, as a rule, they can be best manufactured within a moderate distance of the market. The various forms of cured pork and beef are more convenient of transportation than the live animals, and in skilled hands there might well be a large exten¬ sion of this trade. Soap should be manufactured in Nebraska more cheaply than further east, and the business must be largely extended to meet the demand in the State. Distilled liquors will better bear trans¬ portation than the grain from which they are manu¬ factured. "High wines" can be sent from Omaha to New York for $14 a ton, and this is so much less than the freight on the grain from which these articles are made, that an English firm, manufacturing in Omaha or some other town on the Missouri, could produce an excellent article, and yet undersell in the home market any firm manufacturing in England. The new manufactures for which there has seemed to me to be an immediate opening are : (1) flax fibre into bales for further manipulation in the east, and into ropes, twine, sacks, &c. ; (2) paper from straw, espe¬ cially a sort of straw board, much used in the construc¬ tion of temporary buildings; (3) glass, for which a large proportion of the material might be obtained on the spot ; (4) starch from maize, wheat, &c. ; (5) canned and preserved fruits, and vegetables and potted meats ; (6) flannels, blankets, coarse woollens, cheap carpets, &c. ; (7) various manufactures of leather and skins. There are three daily newspapers, seven weeklies, THE CITY OF OMAHA. 61 and three monthlies, with eight printing offices and four bookbinderies in Omaha, all that I have seen pre¬ senting a very decent appearance, and some of them being valuable property ; but how so many flourish in a place so young and comparatively so small is quite a mystery to me. A fourth daily was started in the interval of my visits of 1873 and 1874, but it suc¬ cumbed to the November blasts of the latter year. The public school expenditure of Omaha is curious and interesting to an Englishman, in all the details of its extravagance, but I can give only a few of its more salient features. Like other young towns of the west, its children and youths bear but a small proportion to the adult population. Between the ages of five and twenty-one inclusive, they were 3,724 in 1873—an in¬ crease on 1870 of 48 per cent. A total of 2,525 were attending schools, public or private ; 147 below the age of thirteen, and 1,152 of that age or upwards, were not attending any school. The average daily attendance in public schools is 1,290, and whole number of seats 1,586. The school buildings and grounds to accommo¬ date this number of pupils are worth $406,800, the salaries of teachers are $29,987, and the whole ordinary expenditure, exclusive of interest, was $48,336, or about £7 55. per pupil of the average number attend¬ ing. But the city is in debt for a part of its school property, and it pays 10 per cent, interest. Reckoning interest on the whole property at this rate, which is low for Omaha, we shall find that each pupil costs the town between £13 and £14 per annum. This is for pupils of all ages, but the interest on the value of the Central and 62 NEBRASKA. High School and grounds is about $30,000 a year, and their yearly expenses are about $20,000, while the total average attendance is exactly 500, at a cost, therefore, of $100 each per year, or $10 each per month of the school session. Omaha is justly proud of her free schools ; but I cannot imagine an English town with a like number of children coveting the same distinction. In extenuation of this extravagance it may be said, however, that the cost per caput will rapidly diminish with the increase of children in the town, and that the revenue from the vast area of school lands in the State, and from other sources independent of direct taxation, is rapidly increasing, and thus diminishing the burden ; • while the reputation of having such superior schools serves to attract, far more than school taxes deter, people from taking up their abode in Omaha. The plate facing the title-page of this book, from a photograph by Eaton, a local artist of repute, is an accurate representation of the High School, a finely-pro¬ portioned and beautiful structure, 176 feet long, and 80 feet wide. The spire rises 185 feet from the ground. The High School bill of intellectual fare comprises a German-English preparatory course of one year, a Latin- English ditto of two years, a classical course of four years (Latin, Greek, higher Mathematics, Natural Sciences, English Composition, Ehetoric, Logic, Litera¬ ture, Political and Social Economy, Mental and Moral Philosophy and the Ethics of Government, Chemistry, Physics, Physiology, Zoology, Botany, Geology, Mine¬ ralogy, Astronomy, History of Civilization, International Law); a Latin-English or a German-English course of Eatun, l'huto, Oinalux, TU Ii rOST-OFFJCE AND ClUilGIITON BLOCK, OMAHA. THE CITY OF OMAHA. 63 four years, very similar to the classical course, lan¬ guages excepted ; an English course of four years, almost equally ambitious; and a select course, which is very much at the option of students and parents. This, like the bill of fare of an American hotel, comprises too many dishes; it is extremely difficult for the diner to choose wisely, and he or she runs great risk of destroy¬ ing the power of mental digestion. The fact that it is entirely free adds somewhat to the danger. There is very properly no distinction of race or colour, and the irrepressible darkey is to be found in all grades. Opposite is a view of Omaha Post-office and Creigh- ton Block. The latter is a neat row of brick buildings, named after a very noted character of frontier life. In the old days of the California gold-fever he was a freighter across the plains and mountains. He was chief constructor of the telegraph which links San Fran¬ cisco with the Mississippi valley and the east. He be¬ came also a great stock grower, generally, if not always, making the manager of a herd a partner with himself in the enterprise. He was said to be very liberal, and he was by far the most prosperous and prominent man in the State ; but with the rapid accumulation of his capital he increased the number and complexity of his business undertakings, till he broke down, and recently died of paralysis, the sure conqueror of any man who persists in doing the mental work of half a dozen. Omaha is a port, and in the heart of a great conti¬ nent, as it is, it derives a somewhat greater advantage from this fact than Dudley Port does from its name and central position on the tight little island of England. I 64 NEBRASKA. have heard of commercials, new to the mysteries of the road, being hoaxed into running down to Dudley Port on Saturday eve to spend a pleasant Sunday on the sands of the sea-shore. The victim arrives in a great state of happy expectation, to find the sea a mirage of the imagination, and the sea breezes an atmosphere of soot, which, if transported to other localities, might be dexterously served out with a ladle, as a species of soup. This soup being about the best thing the place afibrds to eat, drink, or inhale, and there being no trains or facilities for getting away till Monday, the victim of the hoax becomes pretty thoroughly im¬ pressed with the importance of geographical knowledge. Omaha has the shore of the Missouri in the foreground, sometimes a trifle muddy withal, and if sands are wanted, there are any number of miles of them oh the Platte, while the " prairie zephyrs " are as lusty and health-giving as the breezes of the sea, although it must be confessed that they lack the pleasant briny flavour. But the city derives more practical advantages from being a port ; it has the privilege of importing goods in bond by rail or river from all parts of the world, with¬ out paying tribute to the cities of the sea-board. It is also the seat of a United States District Court, and the fine building popularly known as the Post-office is intended also for a Customs and a Court House. It is of fine freestone, and is the costliest and most substan¬ tial building in the city. In 1874 the City Post-office dehvered 546,483 letters, 59,189 post-cards, and 256,750 newspapers, its collections being considerably less, and its total receipts, including money orders, were Sl,054,705-83. í I / I THE RESIDENCE OF AUCÜ6TU6 H0UNT2E . tSq. THE CITY OF OMAHA. 65 The grand Central Hotel is a fine brick structure, 132 feet square, five storeys high, with lofty, commodious rooms, and it is first-class in its management and ap¬ pointments. The Omahosses " are very proud of it. There are several other prominent hotels, and a larger number than I should care to enumerate of the average "Western type. The Pacific railway bridge over the Missouri at Omaha, an end view of which serves to illuminate the cover of this book, is an imposing structure, but it is also extremely light and graceful in its appearance. Its length is about half a mile, its spans are some 250 feet each, and they rest on massive iron columns 8 feet in diameter, filled with concrete. These rise nearly 90 feet from the water, and consequently, notwithstanding their huge circumference, they look rather slender than otherwise. The freight which passed over this bridge from the east, consigned to Omaha in 1874, con¬ sisted of— Car loads. Car loads. Timber boards, &c.. . . 2,217 Oil 154 Coal 2,061 Salt 170 "Wood, , are more French than English, and I must confess that they are better in consequence. Instead of a hard, un¬ gainly knob, drawers, in almost all articles requiring them, have carved ornaments of fruit or leaves, or some ornamental design which does.not project too far beyond the general outline, and which affords a neatly con¬ cealed recess for the fingers. Iron bedsteads are very little used ; those of wood are very much under London prices for like articles, the carved walnut bedstead at £1 165., for instance, being in what the London dealers would call the Parisian style—the bed low, and partially enclosed by the sides of the bedstead, the foot-board high and solid, and the head-board higher still, and more or less ornamented with carving. Drawers are dovetailed and very accurately fitted by machinery, and other cabinet work very largely in the same man¬ ner ; and to this fact, and the comparatively low price of the raw material, are to be attributed, in a great measure, the favourable prices at which furniture may be bought of this firm, and, as I suppose, generally of dealers in other parts of the State, with reasonable differences, according to freight, size of town, and ex¬ tent of trade. CHAPTER V. STATISTICAL. Vox populi.—^The westward movement of population.—Happiness has gone with the current.—^Marvellous increase.—Symmetrical law of move¬ ment,—History in a diagram.—^Massachusetts.—New York.—^Pennsyl¬ vania.—Ohio.—Indiana.—Illinois.—Iowa.—Nebraska.—Cause of the check in Illinois.—Cause of the increase in Iowa.—The latter greater than it appears, and stiU more so in Nebraska. HILE popular tendencies are by no means always right, they are seldom long con¬ tinued without a strong foundation in in¬ stinct, reason, or experience. The tide of life that flows to the emigrant fields of North Ame¬ rica is no new thing, nor is it without causes of the most substantial character. Some politicians and the- orizers, whose uninformed wishes have engendered their, belief, have looked on that tide in the course of the last eighty years, and confidently predicted its cessation or even a strong reflux, to commence at no distant day ; but decade after decade has come and gone while it has continued to flow with accumulating force. STATISTICAL. 75 There are abundant statistics to show that in general the happiness, by which I mean the comfort, wealth, and enlightenment of the individuals who have followed that current, has been enormously increased thereby, and this is strong presumptive evidence that like advantages from like means may be obtained by others in the future ; but it is not my purpose to deal with that question here. I shall assume the wisdom of the movement which is populating the West, and deal with some of the more prominent effects, the consideration of which will throw a strong light on the probable future of Nebraska. There are none so ignorant as not to know some¬ thing of the marvellous increase of the population of the north-western States of America, — from about 3,000,000 in 1840 to 5,000,000 in 1850, to 9,000,000 in 1860, and to 12,964,702 in 1870. Commencing far back of these dates, the westward movement of Ame¬ rican population has obeyed a symmetrical law, going at the average rate of about 200 miles in each decade; and in each period of ten years, it has, on the average, more than quadrupled the population of the regions passed over by the crest of the wave. Chicago has attracted universal attention ; and there is abroad a very general idea, that no other State ever has in¬ creased, or ever will do so, as rapidly as Illinois, the fortunate possessor of this Queen City of the Great Lakes. But, as a matter of fact, this impression is far from accurate. The absolute and the comparative increase in density of population, of the several States on, the shortest line from Boston to Nebraska, during 76 NEBRASKA. a period of eighty years, is diagraphically shown in fig. 2. llñO WC 1ÔOO 1810 18W Ft^. Z 1890 IMC ISSO iseo mo 3jDC tâC iSO no 160 1ÓC no iso IZO uo iOC X eo ■jc 60 M W ISO no i60 too Í40 130 140 40O 80 70 60 SO 40 + s Jlü- i '4 ~Ú 5^ ? SC ^\tz 7^ i \h. ;î- ¡Í 30 llúlll 30 zo ih Ithlll: M S i'. 32 tâCO 1810 18W fsao /&40 1SÓO leUiO 1870 This diagram combines in a few square inches the results of much investigation ; and a very few moments' examination of it will convey to most persons clearer and more perfect ideas than the laboured perusal of STATISTICAL. 77 Statistical tables,—it is, in fact, a simple and a very accurate history of the progress in population of the several States named thereon. The vertical scale indi¬ cates the average population per square mile, and the horizontal scale, the efflux of time. The population of Massachusetts was nearly 50 per square mile in 1790, and it has increased to about 200 at the present time, the curve of increase being rapid, and on the whole very regular. To find very accurately the density of the population in any one year, it is only necessary to follow the vertical line corresponding to that year in the diagram, to the point where it is crossed by the curved line, and the horizontal line nearest above or below that point will indicate the population per square mile. New York commenced with a population of per square mile in 1790, and increased to 93J in 1870, having gained in proportionate density very consider¬ ably upon Massachusetts, while it has overtaken early in the race and passed far ahead of Pennsylvania. The latter State, commencing with nearly 9J per square mile, is passed in the, race by New York before the end of the second decade, and between 1830 and 1850, has a neck-and-neck race with upstart Ohio, which she surpasses in 1870 by something less than 10. Ohio increases most rapidly tiU after 1840, when there is a comparative falling-off to 1860, and an improvement thereafter. The general features of increase in Indiana, Illinois, and Iowa are also well shown in this diagram ; but the comparatively early progress of Ohio and these more western States is better seen in fig. 3, which is on a larger vertical scale. 78 KEBEASKA. 20 % ^ 20 15 -fií' ; J :iL < 2 1 Û L -?-■ W7- ¡li l-a ill! 1D Ü7»'- ;a_ ■if N'î7. ■M- gl: M I Í 15 K> Each space of the vertical scale represents a population of one to a square mile, and each space of the horizontal scale one year of time, and the heavy lines decades. But these intervals of time are consecutive only in respect of each State when considered separately. The Ohio curve is from 1800 to 1820, and the increase from 1*13 to 14'56; the Indiana curve overlaps this, and is from 1810 to 1830, and the increase from *77 to 10*12. The Blinois curve is through a period of 30 years instead of 20, and is from *22 to 8*58, or from 1820 to 1840 j it is from 1 to 8*58. The Iowa curve is from *78 to 12*26 in 20 years, and the Nebraska curve (partly estimated) is from *377 to 7*1 in 20 years. A more perfect diagra- phic comparison would be obtained by carefully estimating the time at which each had a population of one per square, mUe, and calculating the curves from those dates for periods of 20 years. But such a diagram, even if explained at great length, would involve unnecessary controversy, as the people in each State would discover or fancy that they discovered special reasons why the estimated curve was more or less unfair to their own commonwealth. Ohio is the first State on our route westward, which has not in practical efiect an Atlantic sea-port; it is also the first which is not included in the census of 1790 ; it increased its population about five-fold from 1800 to 1810, and about thirteen-fold from 1800 to 1820. At first sight of the figures, one might infer that Indiana did even better from 1810 to 1830; but a glance at the diagram will show that Ohio, commencing from a higher standpoint, has the better reckoning of the two ; while in no decade has Illinois tripled its population, if we except only the period before it attained the dignity of one inhabitant to a square mile. But the wave, which had slackened somewhat in passing over the STATISTICAL. 79 prairie State of Illinois, gathered fresh strength as it crossed the Mississippi ; and Iowa shows in consequence an increase, corresponding almost exactly with that of Ohio, and far surpassing the intermediate States. When we come to Nebraska, we find its history so short, that we have not the means of perfect comparison, but we have sufficient data to prove that the force of the west¬ ward current is by no means expended. The chief cause of the diminished force of the wave, as it passed over Illinois, is to be found in the matter of transporta¬ tion, the shortcomings of which in those days more than counterbalanced any advantages which this State possessed in its rich and easily-subdued prairies. From 1840 to 1860, there was an enormous advance in facilities of transportation, by steamboats on the rivers and lakes, and by raü on the land. Iowa had the benefit of this, as well as that of fine prairie-land, and these two causes have had much to do with her rapid increase,—an increase which is even greater in propor¬ tion than it seems; for it must be remembered that the base of operations, so to speak, is in the east, and the main line of development is from east to west, and Iowa is much wider in this direction than any of the more eastward States with which I have compared her. This consideration applies with still greater force as we cross the Missouri and come to the State of Nebraska, whose average measurement is nearly a third more in this direction than Iowa, more than twice as much as Illinois, and nearly three times as much as Indiana. CHAPTER VI. STATISTICAL. Relation of wealth to population.—Population diagrams.—Massachu¬ setts, figs. 4 to 12.—^Nebraska and Massachusetts, figs. 13 to 17.— New York, ditto, figs. 18 to 23.—Pennsylvania, figs. 24 to 28.—Ohio, figs. 29 to 33.—Population of Nebraska by comparison, 6,800,000, in 1941, and its wealth nearly ¿£1,050,000,000.—Indiana, figs. 34 to 36.— Illinois, figs. 37 and 38.—Population of Nebraska by comparison, ^ 3,430,000, in 1911, and wealth about ¿£505,000,000.—Iowa, figs. 39 and 40.—Population of Nebraska by comparison, 1,648,000 in 1895.— Plain causes for such growth.—^No paradise for all comers.—Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Feejee, and New Guinea.—India, China, Japan, and home.—^Amount of taxation no argument against what has been achieved in the face of it.—A hydra-headeJ dragon.—^What will we do with it ?—^What has been done in despite of it.—Taxation a strong argument for the West.^—^But not so extraordinary a dragon after aU.— A free breakfast-table.—A free homestead.—Wild land as an invest¬ ment.—State and local debt, aggregate and per caput.—^National debt.— Grand aggregate per head.—New Zealand a favoured field of emigration.— Its comparative debt.—^Fig. 41.—Its comparative population.—The popu¬ lation of Nebraska in 1870, classified according to race, nationality, &c.— The population in 1874 by counties.—Comparative areas of Nebraska and other States and countries. HE increase in material wealth in the northern and western States of America, even in times of financial depression, and during the period of civil war, has far out¬ stripped the increase of population, and there are the STATISTICAL. 81 most substantial grounds for believing that it will long continue to do so ; but it bears certain important relations to the latter, by which it is greatly accelerated. Where population increases rapidly by the accession of new comers from abroad, land increases in value while we eat, drink, and sleep ; the industrious farmer of very small means, in an average case, may fairly expect to live in solid comfort, without labour, in his declining years ; and it is possible for the poor man who has received a homestead of 160 acres, a free gift from the govern¬ ment, to awake some fine morning an opulent citizen of a new emporium of commerce. I therefore desire more thoroughly to familiarize the reader with the progress of the several States dealt with in the foregoing chapter, and thereby to assist him to a more perfect understand¬ ing of what may reasonably be expected m the typical field of emigration which forms the main subject of this volume. In the population diagrams to which I shaU now allude the number of small squares in each figure indi¬ cates the population per square mile at the several periods indicated. Figures 4 to 12 inclusive show the density of the population of Massachusetts in the nine successive decennial periods from 1790 to 1870. At the first census the figures were 49*56, or, omitting fractions, 7 times 7, a perfect square. In 25 years, 1815, by estimate they were 64, or the square of 8; the square of 9, 17 years after, in 1832; in 10 years more, the square of 10; in 1849, or 7 years more, 121, or the square of 11 ; (omitted in the diagrams because no census intervenes;) 12 square in 1856; 13 square in G 82 NEBRASKA. Fuj 4- Massachusetts and NehrasTca, n >0 . 8 '0 1ä73 4y J. J6 • F a. 5. m le 84 Ifi Of ». im ; Tn/TÊ 14 .r-i 2i \ 3< >0 . 1664 Fig. 6. fiS\ IF m IS 7 S3 M fi z. Fig. 10. "c.^ n I8| 5Ç . 1866 J. cy- / - 1832. i 8: 10 m ■ 0 7. n' Fi^.d. X^.l/ S3¿. le Í4(| mz 6! K> \^i T 71 m. di •» ■7. FÍ01€. 0 U í W Wí % m m 7- 1 " i T-i w. 1 fit 10 Fig IS. Fig. 14- Fig. —n « i Vá z- di •Si V-i 1 i üi 1- 'ê Î7 ■Si r- \í. 1 o" 'O 1 Di ü • l£ 7 3. M A S S • i J fe Á 1-i H. . N l 3. 18 6 O • l i. 77 7. ■fc •s / M STATISTICAL. 83 1864; and 196, or 14 square, in 1873. These figures show a growth which would be considered extremely rapid anywhere out of the United States. Figure 13 consists of 196 squares, and corresponds to the density of population in Massachusetts in 1873, while the black dot within it fairly represents the comparative density of population in Nebraska in 1860, which was as 1 to 520. In 1870, as seen in fig. 14, Nebraska had grown to the proportion of 1 to 121, and in 1874 (fig. 15) to that of 3-to 196. Dealing as well as I can with quantities, none of which must be considered as absolutely fixed, I have estimated that in 1880 this proportion will have become as 1 and a small fraction to 28. I believe this is a moderate estimate ; it certainly falls very far short of the anticipations of the people of that State, but whether too modest or too liberal, it certainly leaves abundance of room for Nebraska to grow. Fig. 17 is a synopsis of the four last, and fig. 18 shows New York in four decades, 1790 to 1820, as compared with our common measure, the Massachusetts of 1873, the large square representing the latter, and the four shaded diagrams within it representing New York. It will be observed that in 1790 the population of New York was almost exactly the same as I have estimated for Nebraska in 1880. Figs. 19 to 23 inclusive represent New York at each decade, from 1830 to 1870. As indicated by the dotted lines, figs. 22 and 23, the population was 100 per square mile in 1873. Should Nebraska attain my estimated result in 1880, and thenceforward grow at the average rate that New York has done, its popula- 84 NEBRASKA. New YorTc and NebrasJca Yig.n. NEBRASKA. Fig 18- NEW YORK. FzgW Fig 21. F^.23 tion will be 7,600,000 in 1973. But no man who understands the laws of Western growth can believe for a moment that in the first few decades Nebraska is going to settle down to the much slower rate of growth of New York; nor is it easy to point to a time in the future, when the rate which has been attained by the latter shall not be exceeded by the former. Figs. 24 to 28 compare Pennsylvania with Massachu¬ setts in the same manner as has been already described of New York; and I have placed a copy of fig. 17 along side to extend the comparison. STATISTICAL. 85 Pig. 24: PENNSYLVANIA. Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Nebraska, Pennsylvania. Fig.ZP^ 1838 Fig 27. Pig.17. NEBRASKA. I860 Fig ZS Ohio. Fig 30. Fig.2d. OHIO. t j 1848 1 1 (B-i lo 1 Pig 32 :I867 < 36 0 Fig 31. I J5 0 ' F:V.33. 1074 1 1 70 j 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 ! 1 1 ....i— 86 NEBRASKA. Figs. 29 to 33 deal in the same manner with Ohio. Nebraska in 1867 (see fig. 40) had a like population to that of Ohio in 1800. If it should grow from that point with the same average rate attained by the latter State, its population will be 6,800,000 in 1941. The value of its real and personal estate was $69,277,000 in 1870, against |9,131,000 in 1860; and in 1941 it would be $5,690,600,000, or nearly a thousand million guineas. Indiana, Illinois, and Nehra^Tca. INDIANA. Kg 25 Fi^. 36. 11870 1 8( 0 h M 0 Mg 37. ILLINOIS. Kg.17. NEBRASKA. 18 iO 18: 0 i w le 14 II SO i i :I872 |{ 17: ) , Figs. 34, 35, and 36 afford similar comparisons for the State of Indiana; and figs. 37 and 38 for the State of STATISTICAL. 87 Illinois. The diagram for Illinois in 1830, 20 years after her first census, is almost exactly identical with that of Nebraska in 1874, at the end of 14 years. If the latter State should but equal in her future progress the average rate of the former, it will of course take 40 years, or till 1914, for it to attain a density of population equal to that of Illinois in 1870. It will then aggregate about 3,430,000 people, and its wealth, if it also corresponds, will amount to $2,980,000,000, or about five hundred million guineas, of which, as a general rule, the older settlers and their families will have the lion's share, in proportion to their numbers. Iowa and Nebraska, Fig 39. IOWA. i i i <8 2 ^18 0 m i 185 0 É i f i 18' 0 164 0 18 r i i i i ^18« a Fig.n. NEBRASKA. 18 iO 16 »1 i 16 >4- Ii 60 f i We now come to the State of Iowa, the most im¬ portant for our consideration, and whose actual and relative density of population in 1840, 1850, 1860, and 1870 is compared in the same manner in fig. 39, while fig. 40 is constructed on the same principle as figs. 2 and 3. In this figure the vertical scale is divided to tenths, and its total height indicates a population of 3^ to a square mile, which was the popu¬ lation of Iowa in 1850. 88 NEBRASKA. The population of Nebraska per square mile, as given in this curve, is calculated {a) from actual enumeration of the people made in 1855, 1856, 1860, 1870, and 1874; and (5) intermediate points are estimated partly from the popular vote in elections from 1855 to 1874 inclusive, partly from the above-named enumerations, and partly from some minor considerations. From Fvg 40 3-5 1840 1845 1850 I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I ^ Ja -l-H 1 1 --1-^ —i— att -r :/i Í5 ^-H M T dit J =i^ ' h-i-i- 1 !■ i 1 1 1 K-U I-.-I— H—' —1— 1—1 1 1 i 1 —H- —1— 1 t -I- tí —1— h-M f—+— h-1— 1— 1— k- r f- ' t L' -i —1— h-^ H 1 l— r—~ — — — —t-H r-^ H H - r 1—i-j -4 —' —' O 7 .. -4: ti -0 1^- 4- 1864 1860 1865 1870 1874- 1857 to 1865 exclusive the increase was slow, partly in consequence of the civil war, and in some degree from other causes. I have no like data for the earliest years of Iowa, nor could there in any case be a perfect com¬ parison, for owing to the occurrence of the civil war in one of the periods, the two would be incommensurable. But I have the general curve of population of Iowa, with fixed points at 1840 and 1850, and it is not neces¬ sary to a correct judgment that I should recognize STATISTICAL. 89 minor irregularities between intervals actually taken for comparison. From *78 to 3*00 the curve for Iowa increased in a little less than 9 years, or nearly 385 per cent., and that of Nebraska from *72 to 3*00 in about 8 years, or nearly 428 per cent.; or Iowa from 1 to 3 in about 7J years, and Nebraska in about 6| years. This comparison of the only precisely similar periods for which there are data is rather favourable to Nebraska on the face of it, and immensely so if we add a third for the greater width of the latter State from east to west in the general direction of settlement. Now assuming, as we may fairly do, the same average rate of increase as Iowa has attained, this will give the State a population of 1,648,000 in 1895, which is the standard of Illinois in 1856; and 16 years more, to 1911, at the Illinois rate, would bring it up to 3,430,000, with the same average density as the latter State in 1870, which, again, was equal to that of New York in 1833. Such has been the past and such is the probable future of some American States. The main causes which have produced such immense results are by no means occult ; they are, and must of necessity be plain, evident, and of the most substantial character ; but the effects, taken either alone or in comparison with what has been elsewhere accomplished, form one of the most marvellous chapters of history. It by no means follows from these considerations that States like Nebraska are a paradise for all comers ; on the contrary, there are persons and classes of per¬ sons who would do better in the dominion of Canada, in 90 NEBRASKA. Australia, or New Zealand, in the newly-annexed islands of Feejee, or in the proposed colony among the man-eaters of New Guinea. Others would do better in India, China, or Japan, at least so think some Ameri¬ cans, for the irrepressible Yankee is found in these countries, and of course a far larger number would do best to stay at home. But it is no solid argument against emigration to the Western States of America, to say that the people are heavily taxed. This consideration is, however, often adduced, and I will quote it in the form in which I have seen it best stated. " . . . . The United States settler pays about as follows :— " The farmer in the United States is taxed for trousers he wears 60 per cent.; flannel shirt, 65 per cent. ; vest, 60 per cent. ; on the cloth for an over¬ coat, 60 per cent. ; for the buttons, 40 ; braid, 60 ; lining, 60; padding, 150; boots, 35; coal, 60; 150 per cent, on the stove-pipe; stove, 55; 40 per cent, on the « saucepan. His dinner plate is taxed 45 per cent. ; his knife and fork, 35 per cent. His hat is taxed 70 per cent.; cigar, 150 per cent.; horse-shoe nails are taxed 67 per cent.; plough, 45 per cent.; chains, 100 per cent. ; and harness, 35 per cent. His pocket-hand¬ kerchief, 35 per cent. ; shawls for his wife and daughter, 200 per cent. ; silk dress for Sunday and holiday, 60 per cent. ; woollen dress, 100 per cent. ; wife and daughter's hats, 40 per cent. ; stockings for his family, 75 per cent.; female boots, 35 per cent.; ribbon bow for heck, 60 per cent. ; umbrella, 60 per cent. ; rice, STATISTICAL. 91 82; soap, 70 per cent.; candles, 40 per cent.; paint, 25 per cent. ; starch, 50 per cent. ; needles, 25 per cent.; thread, 73 per cent.; steel pen, 70 per cent.; pins, 35 per cent.; books, 25 per cent. His fowling- piece is taxed 35 per cent.; window curtains, 80 per cent. ; window shades, 35 per cent. ; window glass, 55 per cent.; wall paper, S2 per cent.; wash basin, 40 per cent. ; sheeting, 55 per cent. ; blanket, 540 per cent. ! ! His bedstead is taxed 20 per cent. ; if sick, and needs quinine, it is taxed 45 per cent., besides the glass phial in which he buys it. His axe is taxed 45 per cent.; hammer, 50 per cent.; watering-pot for garden, 35 per cent. ; pocket-knife, 50 per cent. ; scythe, 50 per cent.; screws, 150 percent.; garden and farm implements, 45 per cent. ; dinner-can, 35 per cent. ; well-bucket, 60 per cent.; hand-saw, 75 percent.; and his produce is carried to market on steel rails taxed at 3,000 dollars a mile, and which he must pay for in ex¬ orbitant freight. The iron car in which his crop is con¬ veyed is taxed 40 per cent., and the locomotive which draws it all, and which draws so much unnecessary profits from his crop, is taxed 45 per cent." " The United States settler, additionally, has to pay a State tax, which each State collects for State pur¬ poses." Now if I were a thick and thin advocate of emigra¬ tion to the Western States, I should not criticize this array of figures too closely, but I should rather search for means of making the list still more imposing. Pointing then to the data that I have given in this chapter, I would say, " This most marvellous growth. 92 líEBRASKA. especially in recent years, and particularly in Nebraska, has been achieved in the face of such tremendous taxa¬ tion as I have shown. The emigrants, whether Ameri¬ cans or Canadians, English, Irish, or Scotch, or belong¬ ing to the continent of Europe, were free to choose. Were they all demented, and running like the herd of possessed swine into the sea? were they gods, searching impossibilities, that they went into such unpromising fields, and accomplished so much? or were they merely ordinary men, using fair average judgment in seeking a field which was, notwithstanding this tremendous taxation, a most promising one ? And if these be but common men, and yet their achievements so great under imposts that would grind the inhabitants of most countries into the dust, how wonderful must we consider the natural advantages of the land of their adoption ! Truly none other can compare with it ; and when they get rid of the exorbitant taxes, which they can do in time ; when they have paid the heavy war debt, as they are rapidly doing; when these 35, 40 and 50, 60, 75 and 80,100, 150 to 540 per cents, are left to fructify in their possession, instead of being applied to the uses of the government, what a rapid growth of population, what a vast accumulation of riches may we not then expect." Thus the argument from taxation appears to me to bear on the contrary side to that which is intended by its authors; and it is a very strong argument. Taxa¬ tion is undoubtedly heavy, and its incidences are very badly adjusted, so that it is far more burdensome than necessity requires; but it is in the hands of the people STATISTICAL. 9a themselves, to modify as they deem reasonable. It is becoming better adjusted, and its amount per caput rapidly reduced, ergo^ the prosperity which has been so great, in spite of the load, may be expected to be much greater when the burden is reduced to a minimum, both in its incidence and its amount. But it is only fair to say that taxation is not so far- reaching and so burdensome as some people might suppose, and that therefore we must not expect miracles to result from a judicious remission. The breakfast table is a home production ; it could not be made so cheaply abroad. The cloth, plate, and cutlery are undoubtedly taxed, but what is of far greater importance, the tea, coffee, and edibles are freq, and I have some faint im¬ pression that this is a sort of freedom that John Bright has advocated, and can scarcely be said to have yet obtained, in good old England. Local taxation is some¬ times light and sometimes heavy; but the homestead settler is exempt from it for five years, and may be, if he choose, for seven. It is assessed on unproductive wild land in private hands, as well as upon that which, being cultivated, returns an income ; and, if anything, its average rate is heavier in proportion to value on the former, but it is not sufficient to prevent people from buying largely, with the expectation of making taxes, interest, and profit out of the appreciation of the land in value without cultivation. In 1870 the State debt of Nebraska, floating and funded, was $247,300 ; the aggregate debt of the several counties, $1,769,564; and the aggregate of the several towns, $72,400, making a total indebtedness of 94 NEBRASKA. $2,089,264. The State taxation was $262,505, and the aggregate of State, county, and town taxation was $1,027,327. The population was then 122,993, and the average amount of the debt was $16*98, or £3 Is. Id. per head, and the average burden of the taxation $8*35, or £1 10s. per head. The national indebtedness and taxes are partly per caput burdens, and partly in propor¬ tion to wealth. It is impossible to find the proportion between these two items, so as to estimate exactly the proportion of it which must be borne by Nebraska. But if we divide it, half according to wealth, and half according to population, and then reduce it to an aver¬ age per head in Nebraska, the debt as it stood in 1870 will average about $61*21 in currency, or about £10 3s. 3(i., and the taxation $9*80, or £1 15s. 4c?. This makes a total public debt, national. State, and local, of $78*19, or £13 4s. 4(¿. per head, and a total taxation of $18*15, or £3 5s. 4c?. per head. The total average debt will be $9*11, or about £1 12s. 10í¿. more, if divided according to wealth, or it will be less by that amount, if divided strictly according to population. Space will not permit me to compare this with the public burdens of England or the continent. My latest returns of the public debt of New Zealand make it £13,369,736, and the population in 1874 was a trifle under 300,000, which gives an average of £44 6s. 10c?. per head, or rather more than 3 J times that of Nebraska in 1870, since which time the latter has very materially decreased, the burden of the United States' debt having been very much diminished by liquidation, and by in¬ crease of population, and the local debts having in- STATISTICAL. 95 creased very slightly, while the population has more than doubled. New Zealand is a very prosperous colony, one of the most favoured fields of emigration, and I would be far from detracting from its mèrits. It has spent and is spending milhons of pounds on immigration, and good, suitable immigrants are so valuable in any new country that I am far from saying this is an injudicious invest¬ ment. The colony has been much patronized by the peers and the press, the church and the government, and it will reflect credit upon its patrons by becoming a great, prosperous, and free commonwealth; but the result thus far in population as compared with Ne¬ braska is shown in fig. 41. The density of population in the latter at the end of 20 years from settlement is to that of the former at the end of 34 years as 300 to 282. New Zealand and Nehraslca. 4-1 3 5 30 2 5 eo IS lO 5 0 96 NEBRASKA. Comparative Areas. Fig 42 44- HI"-] 4 ! 1 11441- . NEBRASKA 100 ITALY 14F5 FRANCE 186 1 -j- ! j t II II 1 1 1 ENGLAND 610 HOLLAND BELGIUM . fj 0 Í4.t 1 —J— UNITED KINGDOr ISd 3 -iw s >ACHUS 10Z FS DENMARK - 1 -[■ -■ - - NEW YORK PENNSYLVANIA 60S OHIO 62 6 INDIANA 49d ILLINOIS ns 618 -rr S-T-T-r-r IOWA IZÓ 1 M M 1 1 M i The space occupied by the diagram figure 42 is divided into small squares assumed as units. Nebraska, in the top left-hand corner, is supposed to occupy 100 of these squares (10 x 10), and the comparative areas of the coimtries and states named are approximately shown diagraphicaUy, and more accurately by figures under the name of each State. There is clearly elbow room enough in Nebraska. Nebraska.—The population in 1870, dmsified according to raccy nationality, ^c. Total population . ' . . 122,993 Foreign-born .... 30,748 Bomin theUnited States Natives having foreign White .... . 91,376 fathers 48,277 Coloured 782 Ditto having foreign mo¬ Indian citizens , . 87 thers 46,392 Ditto having foreign fa¬ Total American. . 92,245 ther or mother . . . 50,017 STATISTICAL. 97 Native, having foreign Saxony 203 father and mother . 44,652 Würtemberg 338 Germany—not specified 1,744 Foreign, where born :— Africa—white . 3 Total Germans . 10,954 Asia—white 15 „ coloured 1 England—white . 3,602 Atlantic Islands 15 ,, coloured 1 Australasia .... 31 Ireland 4,999 Austria 290 Scotland .... 792 Belgium .... 15 Wales 220 Bohemia .... 1,770 Great Britain — not British America :— specified .... 2 Canada—white 2,336 „ coloured. 2 Total .... 9,616 New Brunswick 74 Newfoundland . 5 Holland 180 Nova Scotia 183 Hungary ... 73 Not specified—white . 34 Italy 44 „ coloured 1 Mexico—white. 9 „ coloured . 2 Total 2,655 Norway 506 Poland 57 Foreign, where born :— Bussia .27 China 2 Sandwich Islands . 2 Denmark .... 1,129 ■ South America . 5 Europe—^not specified. 27 Spain 3 France 340 Sweden 2,352 Switzerland .... 593 Baden 579 Turkey 1 Bavaria 394 West Indies—white . 11 Brunswick .... 19 At sea 16 Hamburg .... 52 4 Hanover .... 586 American born :— • Hessen 258 Nebraska .... 18,630 Mecklenburg . 257 Not stated .... 20 Nassau 5 Alabama .... 63 Oldenburg .... 196 Arkansas .... 85 Prussia—not specified. 6,323 California .... 112 H 98 NEBKASKA.. Connecticut, . . 699 Ohio 10,729 Delaware . . 60 Oregon 14 Florida . . . 10 Pennsylvania . 6,991 Georgia . . . 15 B/hode Island . 150 Illinois . . . 9,655 South Carolina . 81 Indiana . . . 6,040 Tennessee .... 852 Iowa .... . . 7,611 Texas 65 Kansas . . . 498 Vermont 1,050 Kentucky . . . 1,873 Virginia and West Vir¬ Louisiana . . 86 ginia 2,036 Maine . . . 906 Wisconsin . . . . 3,756 Maryland . . . 649 Arizona 1 Massachusetts . . . 1,277 Colorado 90 Michigan . . 1,842 Dakota 26 Minnesota . . . 346 District of Columbia . 78 Mississippi . . . 135 Idaho 11 Missouri . . . . 7,650 Indian Territory . 189 Nevada . . . 8 Montana . . . . 22 New Hampshire . . 419 New Mexico 7 New Jersey. . . 633 Utah 154 New York . . . 9,216 Washington Territory. 2 North Carohna. . . 341 Wyoming . . . . 40 Censáis returns of NehrasJca for 1874 hy counties. Adams .... . . 2,694 Dakota 2,759 Antelope . . 1,387 Dawson 800t Boone .... . . 798 Dixon 3,842 Buffalo .... . . 2,106 Dodge 6,893 Burt . . . . . . 3,866 Douglas 22,670 Butler . . . . . . 4,027 Dundy * — CaSs . . 10,397 Fillmore 4,380 Cedar . . . . . . 1,817 Franklin 1,821 Chase*. . . . — Frontier 128 Cheyenne . . . 449 Furnas 1,342 Clay . . . . . . 3,622 Gage 5,290 Colfax . . . . . . 3,458 Greeley 209 Cuming . . . 3,644 Gosper loot * No returns. t Estimated. STATISTICAL. 99 Hall . 3,842 Red Willow 545 Hamilton . . 8,186 Richardson.... 15,00011 Harlan .... . 1,847 Saline 7,718 Hitchcock * — Sarpy 3,164 Howard .... . 1,339 Saunders .... 8,754 Holt* .... — Seward 7,429 Jefferson f . . 3,375 Sherman .... 460 Johnson . 4,644 Stanton 1,135 Kearney 327 Thayer 1,781 Keith .... 95 Valley ..'... 264 Knoxi .... . 1,133 Washington 5,304 Lancaster . . 14,308 Wayne 272 Lincoln § . . . . 2,555 Webster .... 2,250 Madison . 3,335 York 4,593 Merrick . 3,092 Unorganized Territory — Nemaha . 8,205 Indian Reservation — Nuckolls 942 Otoe .... . 12,382 Totals 228,407 Pawnee.... . 5,057 Estimated for 1874 as per Phelps .... 101 note (^) . . . . 1,600 Pierce .... 557 Platte .... . 3,944 Total for 1874 . 230,007 Polk .... . 2,764 * No returns. t Called Jones county in 1860. í Formerly L'Eau Qui Court. § Formerly Shorter. II Estimated. \ (^) This total does not include any unorganized territory or residents on Indian Keservations, nor the counties of Hitchcock, Chase, and Dundy. 1,600 as the population of these counties and territory would be a low estimate. CHAPTER YIL CLIMATIC CONSIDEKATIONS. Range of temperature.—Table A, monthly mean temperatures, 1863-70. Authorities for table.—Meagre returns.—^Examples of great range.— Tenuity and dryness of atmosphere versus heat and cold.—Cool summer nights and oomparatively mild winter days.—Examples,—Table B, tem¬ perature and agriculture,—Table C, rainfall.—Averages not suflScient for the farmer.—Table D, the time of rainfall agriculturally considered. —Six months' rain in Nebraska nearly equal to a whole year's rain in London,—Yet the climate of the former is dry,—^Why.—American De¬ partment of Agriculture. Tahle E, temperature and rainfall,—Tahle F, United States Signal Service.—Table G, prevalent winds.—Fauna and Flora.—^Rainfall marvellously adapted to wants.—Average moisture.— Sunsets and auroras.—" Swapping" climates,—Conclusion very favourable, —A suggestion to the State. YERY Englishman will be prepared for the fact that the extremes of heat and cold are greater in Nebraska than at home» The range of temperature is, as far as I have been able to ascertain it, somewhere about 115° Fahrenheit; but in some places, and some years, it certainly exceeds that amount. Judging from reasons that I cannot here detail, I believe that the range is CLIMATE. 101 decidedly less in the western half of the State than in the eastern portion ; but I have not sufficient data to enable me to assert this as a positive fact. Temperatuee.—Tahle A, showing the Monthly Mean Temperature at certain Stations in Nebraska. 1863. Elkhorn City . Bellevne . . . Richland . . . Fontenelle . . 1866. Elkhorn City . Bellevne . . . Glendale . . . 1868. Dakota City . . Omaha Mission Elkhorn City De Soto . . Glendale . . Nebraska City Omaha City . Bellevne . . FonteneUe . 1869. Dakota City. , Omaha Mission Elkhorn City De Soto . . Beliehne . . Glendale . . Nebraska City Pern . . . Fontenelle . Decatnr . . 1870. Omaha Agency . Blair .... De Soto . . . Bellevne . . . Nebraska City . Liincoln . . , Newcastle . . 1863 1866 1868 1869 1870 Averages I Average of five years January. February. March. April. 1 May, 1 June. July. August. September. October. November. 1 1 December. 28-6 23-5 35-2 53-8 63-8 72-6 31-0 26-3 37 0 52-3 63-0 67-50 71-10 ... 65-'6 42"-5 35'-'7 25-4 ... ... 67-89 ... - ... ... ... ... ... 72-5 ... 36-6 32-9 ISA 19-8 25-8 294 50-9 61-3 68-7 78-4 72-2 58-2 54-1 30-7 23-7 21-3 24-8 29-7 51-8 60-7 68-3 79-0 73-2 59-6 48-2 43-6 26-9 22-8 29-4 51-6 60-2 68-0 71-8 72-3 57-3 53-1 38 8 23-3 10-8 22-2 40-4 44-3 64-6 48-7 34-1 20-7 14-8 25-3 42 0 45-9 65-5 72-"7 83-'5 ... 50-3 36-5 24-0 11-7 24-5 42-7 44-2 64-6 71-2 81-4 69-5 56-9 50-6 34-2 20-5 11-15 23-3 41-7 44-5 65-1 72-2 82-0 68-8 54-5 49-3 33-3 19-9 11-1 24 0 43 9 45-5 65-0 72-0 83-7 69-6 57-3 49-7 33-9 19-4 ,. , 83-2 73-0 63-6 53-5 38-1 23-2 ... • • < ,, 37-3 21-8 45-3 47-3 65-0 74-6 85-2 70-0 59-1 52-5 37-1 22-5 ... ... ... ... 71-8 57-7 52-2 ... ... 23-9 27 0 31-6 45-5 63-8 65-7 73-3 74-8 27-6 27-5 37-7 49-2 66-0 67-1 72-0 75-9 6Ö-'6 47-1 32-'9 28-5 24-9 27-7 32-0 47-3 60-8 671 72-0 73-7 61-5 43-0 32-6 25-8 24-7 26-8 31-3 46-2 59-9 65-8 71.3 73-6 60-4 42-7 31-5 '24-7 26-3 30-6 34-8 50 3 62-3 69-6 74-1 75-9 61-5 45-3 35-2 28-4 23-4 27-5 32-6 50-2 60-6 68-7 73-3 75-2 62-0 42-1 ... 28-6 31-7 40-8 53-3 60-8 70-0 ... 45 0 34-8 27-7 28-0 30-3 33-3 69-5 ... 47-5 6Ï-3 67-6 62-2 63-1 ... ... 32-6 47-3 61-7 67-0 72-0 ... ... ... ... ... 22-8 32-6 27-8 51-8 65-7 74-6 80-0 69-4 67-3 54-1 44-7 27-I 200 29-4 30-6 ... 19-5 28-7 27-7 52-9 65-0 74-0 69-3 63-6 5Ö-'8 4Ï-'3 24-7 24T 32-5 32-5 54-4 67-5 74-2 82-i 69-9 66-3 53-7 42-9 28-1 23-5 31-3 32-4 55-7 67-8 74-8 79-3 70-4 65-9 53-4 42-0 26-1 ... ... 34-2 51-7 • • • ... ... ... ... ... ... 65-6 72-9 79-8 69-7 62-7 ... ... ... 29-8 24-9 36-1 53-1 63-4 ! 67-69 71-8 72-5 65-6 39-6 39-3 21-9 20-6 24-5 29-5 51-4 60-7 68-3 78-4 72-6 58-4 51-8 40-7 24-6 120 24-1 42-7 45-3 65-0 72-5 83-2 70-5 58-2 50-9 35-6 21-5 25-9 28-6 27-5 48-5 61-9 67-8 71-3 74-9 61-9 44-3 33-4 27-0 21-8 30-9 31-0 53-3 66-3 74-1 80-3 69-7 65-2 53-0 42-7 26-5 22-02 26-6 33-36 50-32 63-46 70-08 77-0 1 72-04 61-86 47-92 38-36 24-3 ' This is s monthly average of the retnms given in this table only. 102 NEBRASKA. I have compiled Table A from returns made to the Smithsonian Institute at Washington, and scattered in different parts of as many large volumes as there are years in the table. The collation, computation, and arrangement of this table has therefore involved much more labour than the results would at first sight seem to warrant ; but I have thought it very desirable that my readers should have before them some of the more essential data on which my calculations are based. It will be seen that the returns for 1863 are extremely meagre and incomplete, and that all the stations are in the eastern portion of the State. The coldest month recorded in the table is January, 1868, when the aver¬ age of the thermometer is stated at 12°, and the hottest, July of the same year, when it was 83° 2'. In that year the thermometer recorded at Glendale . . Dec. llth, —30°. July 20th, 106°. Kange, 136o. Omaha Mission Jan. 29th, —12°. „ 105°. „ 117°. De Soto ... „ —19°. „ 104°. „ 123°. Elkhorn ... „ —15°. „ 102°. „ 117°. These great extremes should, of course, be men¬ tioned: they are not to be often expected, but they should be provided against as possible occurrences, excepting perhaps, that at Glendale, which I suppose could scarcely be matched in the extreme northern part of the State. The average elevation of the eastern counties above sea level is between 1,100 and 1,200 feet, and this very gradually increases to nearly a mile at the western border of the State. Even an elevation of 1,100 feet very sensibly diminishes the density of the atmosphere, and its consequent power to give off or CLIMATE. 103 absorb beat; and from tbis cause alone, tbe sensible ejffect of extreme temperature must be decidedly less tban at or near tbe sea level. Tbe general dryness of tbe atmosphere also bas a very strong effect in tbe same direction, in tbe first place, because it makes tbe air a more imperfect conductor, and, in tbe second place, it operates to cool us in summer, by inducing a more profuse and a more rapidly evaporated perspira¬ tion, wbicb may be quite insensible even wben tbe amount is so great tbat in a dank climate it would roll off tbe surface in great and rapidly accumulating drops. And botb tbe tenuity due to elevation, and tbe dryness of tbe atmosphere combine in another way to amelio¬ rate tbe effect of extremes. Tbe daily range of tem¬ perature is much greater tban we should otherwise expect to find it, and tbis gives more comfortable summer nights, and causes tbe winter minima to occur in hours wbicb tbe majority of mankind can afford to ■enjoy in their beds. Temperatube.—Table B. Averages from Table A. Year. Six principal Agricultural Months. t Mean, Six Months. Mean for each Season. I Yearly Mean. Apr. May. June. July. Aug. Sept. Spr. Sum. Aut. Win. 1863 531 63-4 67-69 71-8 72-5 65-6 65-68 50-87 70-66 48-17 25-53 48-81 1866 51-4 60-7 68-3 78-4 72-6 58-4 64-97 47-20 73-10 50-30 23-23 48-46 1868 45-3 65-0 72-5 83-2 70-5 58-2 65-78 51-00 75-40 48-23 19-20 48-46 1869 48-5 61-9 67-8 71-3 74-9 61-9 64-38 45-97 71-33 46-53 27-17 47-75 1870 63-3 66-3 74-1 80-3 69-7 65-2 68-15 50-20 74-70 52-30 26-40 50-72 Average ) 5 years) 50-32 63-46 70-08 77-0 72-04 61-86 65-792 49-048 73-038 49-106 24-31 48-84 On January lOtb, 1873, tbe thermometer fell to 11° below zero at Omaha, but in tbe course of tbe day it rose to 15° above zero; on tbe ITtbitwas 13° below zero, and rose to 9° above ; on tbe 29tb it was 11° 104 NEBRASKA. below zero, and rose to 17° above; on the 31st it was 7° below, and rose to 26° above. Now these maxima of temperature are by no means uncomfortable to a well-clad person under a clear sky, in a dry and some¬ what tenuous atmosphere. It is, however, fair to say that there was one colder night—that of the 28th—on which the thermometer fell to 20° below zero, and it rose but 14° in the course of the day. The mean tem¬ perature of the month was 16° 9', and the range 66°. On the two hottest days of July of that year the ther¬ mometer registered 94°, but the minima were 65° in the one case, and 71° in the other. In August there was one day on which it reached 91°, and another 98°; and the minimum on the night of this hottest day of the year was 73°. These minima are temperatures at which one can sleep in perfect comfort, and with proper venti¬ lation it is not difficult to obtain the full advantage of the comparatively cool nights. Table C, dealing with the question of rainfall, is compiled from the same sources as Table A, and it is even more important to the agriculturist. Averages are well enough in their place, but in this case it is very desirable to know the extremes from whicti they are derived. One year, for instance, might be so dry that scarcely anything would grow, and the next so wet that almost everything would be destroyed, both years equally disastrous to the farmer, and yet the average rainfall of the two years would probably be just about the quantity he would like. It must be confessed that these returns are also very meagre, but they are cer¬ tainly very good as far as they go. CLIMATE. 105 Rainfall.—Table C, showing ike Monthly Mean amount at certain stations in Nebraska. ^ Jannary. 1 February. March. April. May. a> d S July. August. September. October. November. ' _ December. 1863. In. In. In. In. In. In. In. In. In. In. In. In, Bellevne 0-75 0-56 0-50 0-75 3-88 2-84 2-25 1-75 1-0 1-65 2-90 Elkhorn City 0-90 ... Fontenelle ... ... ... ... 2*70 0-50 2-35 2-85 1866. Bellevne 2-05 0-40 0-66 1-37 !1-91 5-27 1-52 1-46 5-90 0-34 1-33 1-51 Glendale 0-66 2-30 3-19 1-85 5-93 2-80 3-22 5-65 1-15 1-60 1868. Dakota City 0-70 0-50 Omaha Mission .... 0-80 0-60 1-32 1-0 2-25 2-0 1-70 1-36 1-50 Elkhom City ... 0-35 ... ... De Soto 0-70 0-79 2-74 3-16 4^3 3-39 2-45 3-27 0-82 1^8 2-Ö Glendale .... 0-85 1-15 2-75 3-60 8-20 5-0 3-0 6-30 2-35 1-90 1-90 2-10 Bellevne 1-90 2-60 7-20 1-40 1-90 2-20 1-30 0-50 6-40 Nebraska City . . . ... . • > 5-40 6-47 2-10 2-58. Fontenelle ... 1-60 Omaha City ... ... ... ... 1-81 1869. Dakota City 0-55 Omaha Mission .... 013 1-65 0-30 2-90 2-'6 4-75 4-27 4'06 7-83 i-ib ibb 2-36 Elkhorn City ... De Soto o'eo 1-48 0-28 1-64 3-29 7-Ï3 8-60 6-25 9-74 0-80 1-Ï3 4-26 Bellevne .... 0-90 2-0 ... 1-70 4-50 4-80 5-60 11-20 4-60 0-40 1-40 2-20 Glendale 1-30 2-45 0-60 2-45 6-55 9-05 7-50 8-0 5-20 0-75 Nebraska City . . . 115 2-60 1-65 3-05 4-50 8-88 6-05 0-53 2-65 3-28 Pern ... .... 0-43 1-05 ... Fontenelle 9-40 2-50 Decatnr ... 0-63 1-Ö9 3-24 4-23 1870. Omaha Agency .... 2-50 0-00 1-95 1-0 7-68 0-72 2-34 1-53 4-46 0-77 0-10 0-53 Blair ... De Sotó 0-35 0-03 1-36 0-()2 4-95 0-89 2-39 6'79 0-88 0-Ö7 0-Ï3 Nebraska City .... 1-74 0-0 2-15 2-0 2-80 1-0 2-63 4-10 710 2-55 0-20 0-17 Bellevne 0-40 0-0 1-0 2-70 5-80 2-10 2-0 3-60 6-60^ 2-32 0-00 0-10 Lincoln ... 2-0 Newcastle ... ... 0-Ö 0-Ö 11-50 ... ... ... Averages.' 1863 0-75 0-73 0-50 0-75 3-88 2-84 2-25 2-70 1-75 0-75 2-00 3-37 1866 205 0-53 2-48 2-28 1-88 5-60 2-16 2-34 5-78 0-17 1-24 1-58 1868 0-76 0-68 2-18 2-69 7-70 3-79 2-52 4-01 2-61 2-30 1-41 2-73 1869 0-72 1-87 0-57 2-14 4-01 6-92 6-60 7-38 6-68 0-72 1-72 2-78 1870 1-25 0-01 3-63 1 0-63 5-31 1-18 2-32 3-80 7-29 1-63 0-09 0-23 Average of five years . . 1-106 0-764 1-872 Í QO 4-556 4-066 3-170 i 4-046 4-822 1-114 1-29212-138 ' This is a monthly average of the returns given in this table only. Table D is calculated from Table C, and it gives in very concise form the principal features which are of importance to the agriculturist. By this it appears that the total rainfall of 1863 as given was 22*27 106 NEBRASKA. inches, or about 1*73 inches less than the average for London, and a trifle more than half the rainfall of Nebraska as given for 1869. A glance back to Table C will show, however, that we must not put great reliance upon the returns for 1863. But taking them as they are, the rainfall for the six most important agricultural months, 14T7 inches, would, if well distributed, be abundant in the neighbourhood of London, and with good deep tillage, enabling the sod to absorb a fair share of the rain, it would be sufficient in Nebraska, which, from temperature and other causes, needs more rain than is necessary in Middlesex. Rainfall.—Table D. Averages from Table C. Year. Six principal Agricultural Months. Total, j Six j Months. ' Seasons. Yearly Total. Apr. May. June. July. Aug. Sep. Spr. Sum. Aut. Win. 1863 0-75 3-88 2-84 2-25 2-70 1-75 14-17 5-13 7-79 4-50 4-85 22-27 1866 2-28 1-88 5-60 2-16 2-34 5-78 20-04 6-44 10-10 7-19 4-16 27-89 1868 2-69 7-70 3-79 2-52 4-01 2-61 23-22 12-47 10-32 6-32 4-17 33-28 1869 214 4-01 6-92 6-60 7-38 6-68 33-73 ¡ 6-66 20-90 9-12 4-37 41-05 1870 0-63 6-31 1-18 2-32 3-80 7-29 20-53 9-57 7-30 9-01 1-49 27-37 Average ) 5 years f 1-678 4-556 4-066 3-170 4-046 4-822 22-338 8-054 1 11-282 7-228 3-808 30-372 But according to Table D, the yearly average rain¬ fall in Nebraska is one-fourth more than that of London ; and of this amount about three-fourths falls in the months from April to September inclusive, when it is most wanted, and it includes all the summer, and the warmest portions of the spring and autumn. In these six months, according to the table, the rainfall is only 1-| inches less than that of the whole year in London, where the climate is far from dry, how then can Nebraska have a very dry climate with all this ex¬ cess of rainfall ? CLIMATE. 107 The rain in Nebraska generally falls upon ground which has been compacting itself for ages, and from which it runs off very freely. There are few trees to obstruct with their roots the water in its course to the ravines, and to check evaporation by the density of their foliage. Even the check which would otherwise be afforded by the beaten-down stalks and dried leaves of the prairie grass is removed by prairie fires. The winds blow from over vast regions of dry land ; they have free course on the prairie, and consequently the circumstances are extremely favourable for rapid evaporation. Fortunately, also, the great range of temperature is extremely favourable for precipitation, and the man who tills deeply may store an abundance of water in the soil. As such tillage becomes general, and orchards and groves and forest trees are planted, the evaporation from the soil will be more gradual and yet much greater in aggregate amount, the fr-ee course of the winds will be materially checked, the atmosphere will be more humid, and the range of tem¬ perature less, but probably not so much less as to pre¬ vent an increase of rainfall. I have before me a compilation from the Reports of the Department of Agriculture at Washington of the rainfall of Nebraska for nine years. This makes the mean annual fall 29 inches, the mean for April 2*78, May 4*04, June 3*96, July 3*58, August 2*98, Sep¬ tember 3*31—a total for these six agricultural months of 20*65 inches. The other months are January 1*01, February 1*75, December 1*37—a total of 4*13 inches for the winter months; and March 1*45, October 1*33, 108 NEBRASKA. November 1*44—a total of 4*22 inches for these months of spring and autumn. This approximates pretty closely the results from Table C. Tempeeatuee and Rainfall.—Table E. Temperature. d 0 CO cS 01 oq Winter , Spring . Summer. FaU . . Winter . Spring . Summer. Fall . . Winter . Spring . Summer. FaU . . Winter . Spring . Summer. FaU . . CÔ U ÇL, 8 h g í Si p 9-t U e3 -Î Pm.t J^q ti "^.ß ajüí- r ;* ,•- • ^ hakt 9 «SVí/íytíj } akr N ' • ■" -f .f. The Topo^'aT3:y irom Section iVla.^^ BY — EDWIN A.CURLEY. mió. Tluy SvcHcLce Cex^giy of N.y^pori^ of ótat&TWt c¿etermzr06c¿/. * ikA GEOLOGY OF UNDERLYING ROCKS yVêt^terru Souncioay of they l^per Cai BouncLartts of FerrrvCany CrctacccLis fEcLéterry EownEccrj" of TertCajy Totedam/ SURFACE CEOLOGY. Sccndy^ Jtefftcry mjth in/xn^ ScmfiJ)i. EoLCLtetrtn^ s^. dht/f anfi la/^uMriri^ »•>••»*••• 7- -, -, JLaJceZetô EloodplouLriAS or hottom lomjfio. *í'"'í"V'l * v-- "0$ I C!l •-.„ij h2 i4j' THE SURFACE GEOLOGY OF NEBRASKA. 129 superiority of the one over the other undecided. The seasons, as well as the location, have much to do with this question. Some bottom lands are high and dry, while others are lower, and contain so much alumina, that in wet seasons they are difficult to work. On such lands, too, a wet spring interferes somewhat with early planting and sowing. All the uplands, too, which have a lacustrine origin seem to produce cultivated grass as luxuriantly as the richest bottoms,, especially where there is deep cultivation on old breaking. Again, most of the bottom alluvial lands are so mingled with lacus¬ trine materials, and their drainage is so good, that the cereal grains and fruits are as productive on them as on the high lands. The bottom lands are, however, the richest in'organic matter. The following analyses of these soils will give a better idea of their chemical and physical character. The samples were taken from what are believed to be average soils. The first is from the Elkhorn, the second from the Platte, and the third from the Kepublican Kiver bottom :— No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. Insoluble (siliceous) matter 6307 6370 6301 Ferric oxide ...... 2-85 225 2^40 Alumina ...... 8-41 7-76 8^36 Lime, carbonate ..... 7-08 7-99 8^01 Lime, phosphate ..... •90 •85 •99 Magnesia, carbonate .... 1-41 1^45 1-39 Potash ....... •50 •54 •61 Soda ....... •49 •52 •54 Sulphuric acid . . ... •79 •70 •71 Organic matter ..... 1400 1345 1301 Loss in analysis ..... •50 •79 •97 Total ...... 100^00 10000 lOO^OO K 130 nebraska. From these analyses it appears that, chemically, al¬ luvium differs from the lacustrine deposits principally in having more organic matter and alumina, and less silica. The depth of the alluvium varies greatly. Occasionally, sand and drift materials predominate in the river bottoms, especially in the subsoil. Sometimes the alluvium is of unknown depth, and again in a few feet the drift and sand, of the subsoil is struck. This is especially the case where the valleys are worn away down to the drift, and have not again subsequently been filled up, though such instances are not often met with. There must have been a time, of longer or shorter duration, when the bottoms were in the condi¬ tion of swamps and bogs ; and during this period the greater part of that organic matter accumulated in the surface soil which is a distinguishing feature of these lands. In fact, there are isolated localities where that condition has been perpetuated to the present time,— as, for example, the bogs that are yet met with at the head waters of the Elkhorn and the Logan. Along these rivers and their tributaries all the intermediate stages from perfectly dry bottom to a bog can yet be found. So much has the volume of water been lessened in all the rivers of Nebraska through the influence of geological causes, that there are few places where now, even in flood time, they overflow their banks. The Sand Hills. It is in the western portion of Nebraska where the sand hills, which are so often mentioned, are found. South of the Platte they run parallel with the river, THE SURFACE GEOLOGY OF NEBRASKA. 131 and are from one to six miles in breadth. North of the Platte, along the upper portion of the Loup rivers and some of their tributaries, and on the Niobrara, they cover much larger areas. Sometimes they are com¬ paratively barren, but generally there are, in the regions covered by them, many spots of high fertility. The great body of these hills is also covered by a more or less sparse vegetation, some of which is composed of nutritious grasses ; so that this region is by no means the utterly barren desert which it has sometimes been represented to be. They are, however, composed al¬ most entirely of sand, pebbles, and gravel, of varying degrees of fineness. The sand always predominates. Occasionally it is more or less modified by the presence of other materials, such as lime, potash, soda, alumina, and organic matter. These hills are in some places stationary, and so covered by vegetation, that their true character would not be suspected until they were closely examined. In other places, again, especially on the Upper Loup and the Niobrara, they are so loosely compacted that the wind is ever changing their form, and turning them into all kinds of fantastic shapes. Some scientists have sought to account for these hills by the theory that the winds in the course of ages have blown the sand from the bars on the rivers. There are many difficulties in the way of this theory. East of Columbus no sand hills are found, and in many places portions of the hills are partly composed of large pebbles and stones that could not have been moved by the 'winds. The probabilities are that south of the Platte these sand hills show the track of the 132 nebraska. current in the old lake that produced the lacustrine deposits. It is well known that fine sediment is de¬ posited in still waters, but coarse materials, such as sand and pebbles, in the borders and in the tracks of currents. As the whole country rises towards the west, the water here may have been very rapid, and the land in process of drying up when it was yet deep at lower levels. Both causes—the currents and the winds —may have co-operated to produce these deposits. The sand-hiUs on the Loup and the Niobrara derived the bulk of their materials from pliocene tertiary deposits. This old lake was probably perpetuated here down through lacustrine times to the borders of our era. Even yet lakelets are numerous over portions of this region, some of which are alkaline and others fresh¬ water. The latter can easily be distinguished fi^om the former, at sight, by the thick vegetation growing around their margins, of which the former scarcely have a trace. This sand hill region has never been thoroughly explored, nor its deposits properly investigated, and many problems here yet remain for the solution of the geologist. The Bad Lands. In the extreme western part of the State, between Spoon Hill Creek and the Niobrara River, there is a remarkable region, extending down from the White Earth River in Dakota Territory. The surface deposits here are miocene tertiary. This region is known as the Bad Lands, Mauvaises Terres, or in the Dakota language Ma-kaó-si-tcha, which means a difficult country THE SUEE ACE GEOLOGY OF NEBRASKA. 133 to travel, because, while the surface is broken, there is little if any good water, wood, or game. Here are some of ihe most curious remains in the world, and the geologist never tires of investigating them. The almost vertical sections of white rock have been chiselled by water agencies into unique forms. Indeed, as viewed from a distance, they remind the explorer of one of those old cities which only exhibit their ruins as reminders of their ancient greatness. Among these grandest desolations the weird, wild old stories of witchery appear plausible and possible. It is in the deepest canons, at the foot of the stair-like projections, that the earliest of those wonderful fossil treasures are found which have done so much to revolutionize our notions of the life of tertiary times. Here are found remains of rhinoceri, some with horns and some with¬ out, titanotheriums, and hyopotami, which were river horses much like the hippopotami of modern times. Higher up in the deposits are found countless numbers of turtles mingled with the remains of land animals. Among these are the wonderful oreontidae, which Leidy calls ruminating hogs, because their cutting teeth and canines and their feet are like those of the swine family, while their molars were patterned after those of the deer, and the upper portions of the head much like that of the camels. Several species of fossil monkeys have also been found in these sediments. The vast numbers of these animals were kept within proper bounds by gigantic carnivorous animals, such as sabre-toothed tigers, hyae- nodons, wolves, &c. Though this region is unattractive 134 nebraska. to the utilitarian, I doubt whether any portion of Nebraska will be of so much benefit to mankind, simply because here we have outlined so marvellously the old life of miocene times, and it must ever be a stimulus to geological studies. A State that contains within its borders such a wealth of fossil treasures ought to give in the future illustrious disciples to science. Alkali Lands. In some portions of the State there are limited areas, not confined to any one geological formation, where the so-called alkali spots exist. One half of the counties of the State do not have any such lands, and often there are only a few in a township or county. Where they have been examined they are found to vary a great deal in chemical properties. Generally, how¬ ever, the alkah is largely composed of soda compounds, with an occasional excess of lime, magnesia, or potash. Many of these alkali lands have originated from an accumulation of water in low places where there is an excess of alumina in the soil or subsoil. The escape of the water by evaporation has left the saline matter behind, where by chemical changes the chlorine has separated from the sodium, forming in this way soda compounds. These alkali spots are frequently reno¬ vated, the first steps for which are drainage and deep cultivation. The next step is the consumption of the excess of alkali, which can be eifected by wheat crops in wet seasons. In wet seasons such deeply cultivated alkali lands often produce splendid crops of grain. Wheat is a great consumer of the alkalies, which being the surface geology of nebraska. 135 partly removed in this way, and the remaining excess mingled with the deeply cultivated soil, in many in¬ stances, renders it in a few years capable of being used for the other ordinary crops of Nebraska. Treated in this way these alkali lands often become the most valuable portions of the farm. Fuel from the Surface Deposits. Owing to a want of thorough geological investiga¬ tion, it is not yet ascertained how much dependence can be placed on the coal supplies of the carboniferous, cretaceous, and tertiary deposits, in each of which thin beds have been found, and worked to a limited extent. There are probably thick workable coal beds at greater depths than have yet been reached, but they remain to be explored and developed. There is, however, no question about the deposits of peat in Nebraska. On the Blue rivers, the Elkhorn, the Logan, and on Elk Creek, in Dakota county, and on other streams, there are deposits of peat, which if worked, and the material properly prepared, would supply the State with fuel for a hundred years, and perhaps for a much longer period. These peat beds, where I have examined them, have been formed in lakelets which have been in process of filling and drying up by the accumulation of vege¬ table matter. Many of these are now so far advanced as to form bogs, through the midst of which a stream of water is coursing its way. Others have no visible outlet,- but retain the water poured into them during the spring and the June rains, during the remainder of the year, and thus supply the conditions necessary for 136 nebraska. the peculiar vegetation of such formations. Sometimes, too, such depressions in the surface seem to be supplied with water from ever-flowing springs. The beginnings of these peat beds date back at least to the close of the lacustrine age, so that suflicient time has elapsed for the accumulation of great quantities of this material. As yet none of these beds hâve been worked. This is owing-in some places to the cheapness of wood fuel, and in others to the fact that coal from abroad is easily to be procured. But such treasures cannot remain unused for ever. Eventually this peat must be utilized, and if it is cheaply furnished, as it can be, the State will be supplied for a long time from its own territory with all the fuel needed. Water Resources of Nebraska. Nebraska, taken as a whole, is remarkably well supplied with water. The general map of the State, published in this book, shows numberless streamlets flowing into the larger creeks and rivers. Many can¬ not well be represented. In fact, there are large portions of the State where running water can be found on almost every quarter section of land. Where such resources of water do not exist it can easily be obtained by digging or boring to a certain depth. In the lacustrine deposits water is frequently found at a depth of from fifteen to forty-five feet. If this proves a failure water can be found beneath them in the drift, or where this has been removed, on the underlying rocks. At the bottom of the lacustrine deposits there is generally a stratum of sand or gravel which is a great THE SURFACE GEOLOGY OF NEBRASKA. 137 reservoir of water, and from which it flows in unlimited quantities. In some of the counties west of the Big Blue River, and occasionally east of it, where the lacus¬ trine deposits are of very great depth, water is not found until this strata of sand and gravel is struck, at a depth of from sixty to one hundred and twenty feet. In a few instances the underlying rocks had to be penetrated to secure permanent water. This under¬ lying bed of sand and gravel is probably drift, and exists at some depth, as before remarked, over the greater part of the State. But as the country descends towards the south, it seems to drain the waters of the Platte into the Republican, and is therefore a source of water supply over all the country south of the former river, wherever its bed cuts, or passes over the drift, as it does in many places in the western part of the State. Often this underljdng bed of sand and gravel lies on clay or rock, and in such places water is so abundant as to form a subterranean current. It is found by chemical analysis that the water of the State is above the average in purity, the most common foreign in¬ gredient being the carbonate of lime. An interesting meteorological fact, having an im¬ portant bearing on geological causes, is the increase of rainfall all over the State as civilization extends west¬ ward. As early as the summer of 1865 I examined the region at the headwaters of the Logan, Elkhorn, and Bow Rivers, where I found many ancient creek bottoms with stream beds all grown over with a thick sod of grass and weeds, and where the water had not flowed for ages. But year after year these old streams 138 nebraska. are beginning to run again, and to furnish a constant current of water. Many springs of water, too, are bursting out along bluffs where nothing of the kind was ever known before. These and many other facts which could be given, leave no room to doubt, how¬ ever we may account for it, that the atmosphere is becoming more moist or the rainfall is increasing, or both, all over this region. Timber in Modern Geological Times. One of the curious problems connected with the surface geology of the State, is the question of the geologically modern decadence of timber growth. In investigating the peat beds at the head waters of some of our rivers and creeks, I have found great numbers of logs buried in them in such positions as to preclude the supposition that they could have been floated there during flood times. They evidently grew on the shores or banks, and after falling into the bogs they have been for many ages preserved by the well-known antiseptic properties of the peaty waters. No trees are now grow¬ ing within fifteen or twenty miles of the beds to which I allude. Along the Niobrara, roots of pine trees are abundant more than fifty miles east of the present forests of this timber, showing that at no very remote period they must have flourished almost down to its mouth. There are many other facts that demonstrate that in geologically recent times far more extensive forests prevailed all over Nebraska, than those which now occupy the ground. But what caused their de- THE SURFACE GEOLOGY OF NEBRASKA. 139 struction we cannot determine with certainty, and our space does not permit us to speculate. Man is now an efficient agent for the production of geological changes. Here in Nebraska, as he from year to year again increases forest growths by repres¬ sing prairie fires, and by planting trees by the million, the climate, now so fine, will be still further ame¬ liorated; and when once there are groves of timber on every section or quarter section of land in the State, an approach will be made to the best physical con¬ ditions of tertiary times. The people of this new State have a wonderful inheritance of beauty and wealth in their fine climate and their rich lands, and they cannot be so recreant to their duties as citizens, as to fail to lend a helping hand to the processes of nature, for the development, impróvement, and utilization of the material wealth of Nebraska. [The reader should carefully note the difference between the vertical and the horizontal scale in the sketch, fig, 43, p. 127. If the latter scale were equal to the former in exact accordance with nature the length of the view would be about forty feet, while its width or height remained as at present. The bottom itself is in fact a vast plain of such width that the bluffs are often lost to view, from the mere facts of their distance and of the rotundity of the earth.] CHAPTER X. ON THE PLATTE AND THE ELKHOEN. Arrangement of itinerary.—Divisions of the maps.—Key map and county index.—Mail coaches.—Township and section lines.—Acknowledgments. —Things omitted.—What may be done.—The geological map.—- Douglas and Sarpy Counties.—Bluff portions.—Interior.—Valley. —Drainage.—Prices of land.—Speculators.—" Hard in the mouth."— Best bargains.—Staples.—Dodge County.—Lacustrine deposit.—^Rail¬ way land.—^Fremont.—Agricultural machinery.—Race course, Tatter- sail's.—Horse trade.—Credit system.—Bad in a bad year.—Commend¬ able forbearance. — Old settlers.—Tradesmen.—Saunders County.— Toll-bridge.—A common mistake.—A " sweet" thing for the tollman.— The land.—The crops.—The Platte Valley.—The wells.—Prices of land.— The great railways.—" City of Wauhoo."—" Central Hotel."—Grroves. —Hedges.—Heat.—The Elkhorn.—The Fenian Chief.—Cumming County.—^West Point.—A settler's experience.—Wisner.—Stanton County.—A widow farmer.—" Craig City."—An interesting experi¬ ment.—Why a failure?—Standing to win.—Fine land.—^Fiery fur¬ nace.—Impassable ravine.—Kind friends.—A storm on the prairie.— Wind blisters. In the description commencing with this chapter of the numerous* counties of Nebraska, I have made a compromise between a strictly methodical arrangement and the actual order in which I have gathered my information. For binding in proper form, and for more convenient, reference, my general map is divided mechanically into six parts, North- Eastern and South-Eastern, South Central and North Central, South¬ western, and Western Nebraska, and the descriptions generally follow the same order, but while Douglas and Sarpy counties belong to the mechanical division which I have termed South-Eastern Nebraska, geographically. ON THE PLATTE AND THE ELKHORN. 141 commerciallj, and in the order of my investigations, they range more properly with the North-Eastern division,in connection with which I have described them. There are considerable advantages in such occasional departures from mechanical method, and I think that I have provided against the disadvantages by a key map and county index, which will enable the reader intelligently to follow the description with less difficulty than otherwise. I commend these maps to the careful attention of my readers. By turning frequently from the text to the maps, general and geological, accurate ideas may be obtained of the rail and post roads, the rivers, creeks, and very small streams, the upland and valleys, and in most cases the general character of the soil. On most of the roads laid down here in red, the mail is transported in stage coaches or other conveyances, which also carry passengers and goods. There are other roads, called county roads, which are not indicated on these maps, and besides these, the townships and section lines, which are printed in blue, are, generally speaking, legal roads. Most of these in the more settled localities are actually more or less travelled, but some of them cross streams and ravines which have not yet been bridged, and which are impassable for vehicles. The railroads are mail routes. After these, the post roads shown in these maps are the main lines of communi¬ cation throughout Nebraska, and this is the first attempt to delineate them for the benefit of the general public. I am indebted in the first place to the Postmaster-General at Washington for my ability to accomplish this result with substantial accuracy, and in the second place to Mr. W. L. Nicholson, topographer of the department, who has corrected the infor¬ mation to the latest possible date. I must also acknowledge like obliga¬ tions to the Secretary of War and to officers of the Department of the Platte. The United States Army have made many reconnoissances and surveys, the results of which have been placed at my disposal, and kindly corrected for me to date by Capt. W. S. Stanton, of the Staff of General Old, commanding the department. As far as the surveys of the United States Land Office have been carried out, that department has mapped the country with great accuracy and minuteness of detail, and I am much indebted to the Land Commissioner at Washington, and to the United States Surveyor-General for the State, for many courtesies ; the detail tracings of the recent survey of the Northern boundary, which were kindly made for me by order of the Land Commissioner, have been of especial value, as although they make but little show on my maps, they have enabled me to make important corrections of errors in respect of the 142 NEBRASKA. topography of a region comparatively unknown. But the potent aid of all these authorities was quite insufficient to insure accuracy in many essential respects. There was great difficulty in finding the precise location of many places which the postal authorities had been unable or had deemed it unnecessary for their purposes to fix with exactness, and which had sprung into existence since the explorations of the army, and the surveys of the Land Department. In surmounting this difficulty, I was much indebted to the Land Departments of the Union Pacific and the Burlington and Missouri Biver Bailways, for very accurate maps of those portions of the State traversed by these important lines. I also communicated with the proper authorities in every county in the State, and I have to acknowledge numerous courteous replies, making important corrections in the data previously to hand. Many names of " paper" towns and non-existent places had been placed on previous maps, and then servilely copied from one map publisher by another, and numerous proposed railroads, whose only titles to delineation were " buggy recon- noissances " by impecunious speculators for some fraction of the proposed distance, and charters, which cost little more than mere paper, had like¬ wise found a place. In some cases a few scattered trees or a fringe of timber along a stream has been magnified on a map into a forest large enough to cover an English county. I have considered any railway station or any post-office worthy of note in my map, whether it stood in an important town or alone on the prairie, and I have remorselessly expunged all other names of towns and villages, past, present, and prospective. Some places have two names, one as a railway station, another as a post-office, and I have given both names if space permitted, otherwise I have given the railway name in preference. In other cases, the postal name is always given. The locations will generally be found correct to a quarter of a mile ; when this is not the case it is because it was impossible for me to obtain such precise information in time for this publication. I have omitted all proposed roads, in process of construction or otherwise. In some two or three cases, this may be an omission of some moment, as the roads are likely to be completed, but I have not the details of precise location even in these cases, and I fear that any attempt to delineate them would be more or less misleading. I may, however, from fuller information as to location, condition, and prospects, see fit to add some of them in a future edition. I have omitted from the maps the imaginary forests, and with them, as I am aware, some not inconsiderable tracts of valuable timber, the precise extent and location of which have THE PLATTE AND THE ELKHORN. 143 not yet been defined by explorers with sufficient precision, and a like remark will apply to some other omissions. The St. Joseph and Denver City Bailway has been completed to Hastings, whence its traffic runs on the Burlington and Missouri River Railway to Kearney Junction, and it is extremely doubtful whether the proposed line between Hastings and Kearney Junction will ever be con¬ structed. It, however, appears as actually complete on some of the more recent maps., and as those of the Post-Office Department cannot be excepted from this error, it may be well to vindicate beforehand my character for accuracy by mentioning it here. Between my maps and recognized authorities will be found other discrepancies, which are the result of my own personal knowledge of the actual facts, or of other sufficient evidence to justify the change. Using these maps, it will not be difficult for a stranger to travel alone in a waggon or on horseback in any of the surveyed portions of Ne¬ braska. In connection with the explanations of the United States land laws, to be given in another place, they wiU also enable him to examine without other aid any " section or quarter section " [640 or 160 acres surveyed] of land in the State. The geological map is the first attempt to show with any approach to precision and detail, the character of the soil and surface of Nebraska ; it is the result of much exploration and study by its able, most trustworthy, and painstaking author, who has supplemented his own observations by those of many other persons in various other parts of the State. Strictly speaking, there has been no geological survey of any considerable portion of Nebraska, a work which from its important bearing on the natural resources of the young com¬ monwealth, should be undertaken at once and prosecuted to a conclusion with vigour. In the meantime, however, this map may be taken as being substantially accurate as far as it goes. It will not be without interest to the general reader, and the intelligent agriculturist who intends making a new home in this new country will find its indications of very great value. KOM Omaha the Union Pacific Railway climbs the steep bluflf of the Missouri River, 186 feet, in a course of four miles, and six miles more find it again well down in the valley at Gilmore, whence it seeks the 144 NEBEASKA valley of the Platte, passing through the south-eastern and south-western portions of Douglas county, and the northern part of Sarpy. The bluff portions of these counties are decidedly hilly, the interior is undulating, but a large part of both counties consists of valley land on the Platte or the Elkhorn, so nearly level that it is difficult for the eye to detect the slightest inclina¬ tion. The drainage is excellent, with some unim¬ portant exceptions, and the soil " highland or lowland, far or near," is generally rich, productive, and almost all of it susceptible of easy tillage. The good unimproved upland is held at an average of about ten dollars (£1 I65.) an,acre. Much of that which is in the hands of eastern speculators can be bought wholly on long credit, if the buyer makes suffi¬ cient improvements to afford adequate security, or if improvements do not enter into the contract it may be bought for one-third, one-fourth, or one-fifth cash, and the balance in yearly instalments with interest at 10 \ per cent, on the unpaid balances. The residents say that these speculators are generally "hard in the mouth," and one can get little or no abatement for cash down, but to most of the people in Nebraska money is worth more than 10 per cent, interest, and when land is bought of them one can get a very substantial reduction for cash. As a general rule the cheaper cash bargains are small improved farms of from 80 to 160 acres, whose owners are anxious to realize and to try their fortunes further west, on cheaper land, and with a greater command of money for stock, implements, and improvements. Some very good stock is raised in ON THE PLATTE AND THE ELKHORN. 145 these counties, and this industry might with advantage be very largely extended. Wheat and maize are the principal crops, but flax is receiving a considerable amount of attention, which is likely to be much in¬ creased as the advantages of its cultivation become understood and appreciated. Dodge County is in the second tier of counties west of the Missouri ; it is entirely north of the Platte, and it contains about 450 square miles, of which I should say that one-fourth to one-third is bottom land on the banks of the Platte and the Elkhorn, and Maple and Logan Creeks. This is generally very rich, deep, and productive ; but there are occasional patches that are too sandy. The bluffs, the rolling prairie, and the table land, so far as my observation and inquiries ex¬ tend, consist of lacustrine deposit, rich in all the elements of vegetation. There are no Government lands now remaining ; those of the Union Pacific Railway were in 1874 about 35,000 acres, at $5 to $10 per acre ; and there are very considerable quantities in the hands of private parties for sale at corresponding prices. Fremont, the capital of Dodge County, is a thriving place of some 2,000 inhabitants, forty-six miles west of Omaha on the Union Pacific Railroad, at its junction with the Sioux City and Pacific and the Fremont and Elkhorn Valley Railroads. It is a considerable grain market, its shipments of wheat having amounted to 1,640 car-loads, or 600,000 bushels, in 1873. The amount of agricultural machinery exposed for sale, and the brisk trade in it, would astonish anyone who did L 146 NEBRASKA. not take into careful consideration the wants of a very large back country of new settlers. There is a large profit to the sellers of these machines, but to the buyers it is still greater. A "Marsh harvester," for instance, with one team, a driver, and two binders sitting under the protection of a canopy on the machine, will dispose of eight acres of wheat per day, the price of which is $2 per acre ; at which rate it does not take long to earn Í215 and pay for the machine. It is not at all un¬ common for a settler to buy a harvester as soon as he can afibrd the cash or obtain the credit, and to earn enough in harvesting for his poorer neighbours in the first season to pay for his machine, getting his own work entirely clear. There is, however, a limit to the success of this sort of speculation, and the last ones in it in any locality are generally more or less deceived in their expectation of making the price of their implements out of other people's grain instead of their own. Fre¬ mont has a fair ground, a one-mile racecourse, and half a dozen or more incipient Tatter sails. The trade in horses, on the occasion of my last visit, was even more brisk than that in expensive implements. The dealers bought principally in the adjoining States to the east¬ ward. The horses cost them, all told, about $175 to $200 per pair, and were very quickly turned over at an advance of some 40 per cent., most of the sales being on a note of hand at four or six months, at 12 per cent, interest with one endorser, and with a " chattel " mortgage to two or three times the value as collateral security. The dealers get these notes discounted, to turn into more horses to be sold in the same way ; and ON THE PLATTE AND THE ELKHOKN. 147 thus a very lively trade, buying for cash and selling on credit, may be done with a very small capital. In many cases, in Nebraska, last year, this buying on credit resulted in serious loss or disaster to the debtor. The season was a dry one, and those who had merely skimmed the surface soil with their ploughs, had deficient crops ; while the heavy crops in England and otherwhere brought down the prices. When the inevit¬ able pay day came round, many had to meet it by very substantial sacrifices ; and the mortgaged chattels of many others were sold at very low prices ; but, on the whole, a most commendable degree of forbearance was shown by dealers and tradesmen, who were themselves placed in positions of difficulty by the shortcomings of the debtors whom they obliged in this manner. For many reasons, the old settlers are generally much better farmers than the new ones : their crops were comparatively less affected by the drought ; and I think that few of them were really inconvenienced by the dry season, the grasshoppers, and the very low prices of produce. Tradesmen were more seriously affected, for their crop of greenbacks depends on the prosperity of all. I celebrated the 4th of July, 1874, the great American anniversary, by a drive of some thirty-six miles in Saunders County, which is separated from Dodge County by the broad stream of the Platte. The toll- bridge across the river at this point cost |50,000. Judging frorn what I have seen of bridges on similar streams, the depth to a secure foundation, and the cost of timber and labour, I should roughly estimate that a safer 148 NEBRASKA. and better bridge might be built for half the money. A portion of the bridge was swept away in the breaking up of the ice last spring, and has been replaced by a temporary structure, at a cost of $4,000, to be swept away next spring in its turn. I understand that the yearly tolls amount to some $7,000 to $8,000 ; but of course they do not, under the circumstances, contribute to lighten the burdens of the taxpayers. The toll for a team is twenty-five cents each way, and it is inno¬ cently supposed to be paid principally by the inhabitants of the adjoining county, who are almost the only persons to use the bridge : but the fact is, that the tolls operate as a check on the profits of trade in Fremont to much more than their aggregate amount. Some such mistakes as this matter of bridges and tolls are common to al¬ most all vigorous young self-governing communities ; and while we should never overlook them among the pros and cons of settlement in a particular locality, we should be very careful that we do not attach to them an undeserved importance. There is a wooded island of several hundred acres at the bridge crossing, on which the tollman sustains a population of some 200 swine. The land belongs to others and costs him no¬ thing, the river herds them for nothing ; a trifie in the way of slops and Indian corn prevents their going alto¬ gether wild. In the spring and summer they live almost entirely on the roots and other wild food that they find in the forest, and in the autumn they fatten on the mast. But this is such a nice thing for the toll¬ man, that he is in some danger of multiplying his swine beyond the limits of their food supply. The land that ON THE PI/ATTE AND THE ELKHORN. 149 I passed over in Saunders County consists principally of gently undulating upland, with" some wide, rich valleys. The crops seemed to me in just about the same condition as in Sarpy, Douglas, and Dodge. The spring had been backward. Barley and wheat were ripening ; the straw was short, but the ears generally were well filled; and I judged that the farmers were safe for an average crop. Oats, also, looked weU. Indian corn was not yet injured ; but any further con¬ tinuance of the dry weather was certain to shorten the crop. The upland of the three counties is similar in its essential characteristics ; but as the slopes are generally very slight in this county, while they are often quite steep in those, we shall find that this has a greater average depth of vegetable mould. The valleys that I saw in Saunders are but more copiously watered speci¬ mens of upland soil, richer in vegetable mould than the upland of true lacustrine, and in some cases lying too nearly level for good drainage. Underneath, at a depth of 15 feet, to 30 feet, or upwards, is a quicksand, with good and never-fading water. The valley of the Platte, in Saunders, Sarpy, and Dodge, is on another geological stratum, and contains a large amount of sand not to be found in the upland. It is very light and very rich, and produces excellent crops of maize, but it does not equal the upland for wheat, barley, and oats. The wells in use here are tubes driven into the ground tdl they penetrate the quicksand, and the water is of course drawn by means of a pump attached to the top of the tube. On the uplands the wells are generally bored, and lined with 150 NEBRASKA. wooden tubes ; each has a single metallic bucket, of about four and a half or five inches diameter, and two to four in length. It is lowered by means of a crank and pulley ; a self-acting valve in the bottom admits the water. When it is drawn up the bucket comes to rest on a little peg, which opens the valve and pours out the water. The whole contrivance is simple, effec¬ tive, and cheap. Valley land in Saunders is worth $10 per acre ; very superior upland may be bought for $8 ; and there is some rough upland in the extreme western part of the county that may be bought for $3, or less. The principal part of Saunders is within the twenty- mile limits of the Union Pacific Railway, and the Burlington and Missouri River Railway touches it at Ashland in the south-east, whence the county seat has recently been removed to Wauhoo, near the centre of the county. This " City of Wauhoo " is a model of American enterprise. A few months ago it was merely 640 acres of wild prairie. This was " staked out " into streets and town lots by the owners, and half of the lots were offered to the county, on con¬ dition of the removal of the county seat to this central point. The generous gift having been accepted, the donors are of course considerably richer than before. A village of about a dozen shops had already been started on land adjoining, and the new " Town Com¬ pany " have given eligible lots to such of the villagers as would move to the new site ; but they have been careful neither to sell nor to give away any lots near the older village—a policy which, by changing the business centre, will effectually stop, for a time at least, the ON THE PLATTE AND THE ELKHORN. 151 growth of the old village. I dined at noon at the " Central Hotel," a temporary structure of light lumber and " building paper." Altogether the house contained some two dozen persons, which was probably rather better than a fourth of the population of this new city of the prairie ; but the county is comparatively populous. All the Government land, and much of that formerly belonging to the railway or to private individuals, is now occupied; and it is not unlikely that Wauhoo may become a market of some local importance. My ride of the morning was extremely pleasant ; the landscape was charming in its quiet beauty, and the south wind in our faces was neither too hot nor too cold for perfect comfort. But on my return in the afternoon this wind carried along with us a quantity of impalpable dust, whUe it scarcely tempered the fierce heat of the sun, and in consequence my personal dis¬ comfort detracted considerably from the apparent beauty of the landscape. I saw a large number of groves of young trees, in which I should judge that 10 per cent, were dead or likely to die, while the rest were thrifty and growing rapidly. The prevailing hedge was Osage orange, but not one was perfect, and in many cases not half the requisite number of plants to make a good hedge were in healthy condition. Careless planting and subsequent neglect may account for nearly or quite all of these untoward results ; but the fact remains that, as dealt with in Saunders County, and indeed in a very large part of Nebraska, the Osage hedge is a failure. There were quite a number of willow hedges, most of which were perfect ; and the only one of cottonwood 152 NEBRASKA. that I saw had very few defects. Osage orange is, I think, the best hedge for Missouri and Kansas, and will probably do well in Nebraska in the hands of a careful farmer, but bitter willows will probably bear off the palm, and after these will come box-elder and cotton wood. The thermometer registered 99^^° in Fremont in the shade; on Sunday, July 5th, 100°; and 99° on the 6th. While I was writing my weekly letter to the " Field " it varied between 86° and 99°. The latter point is rather too high for hard work, even in the dry atmosphere of Nebraska; but I find that 98°, with a good breeze and perfect quiescence, is quite compatible with comfort. It is fortunate that in summer there is almost always a breeze in Nebraska; but the niceties of summer venti¬ lation seldom enter into the plan of a habitation, and it is not always easy to be sheltered from the sun and to have the benefit of the breeze at the same time. On July 6, 1874,1 left Fremont for a visit to Stanton and Gumming Counties, in the famous Elkhorn Valley. The Elkhorn is a tributary of the Platte. Its general course is about 200 miles, and in its windings it is pro¬ bably nearly double that length. It is an important artery in the drainage system of the vast lacustrine region of the West, and through its railroad, now com¬ pleted for fifty miles or upwards to Wisner, in Gumming County, and which will doubtless eventually tap the timber regions of the Niobrara, some 250 miles from its starting point, it is destined to become a very consi¬ derable artery of commerce. On the train I met the once notorious General O'Neil, who led that great ON THE PLATTE AND THE ELKHOKN. 153 Fenian invasion of Canada which ended so suddenly in a most inglorious fizzle. O'Neil is a fine, handsome, and very gentlemanly fellow of about thirty-five, and he is now engaged in the laudable endeavour to draw some of his countrymen from the temptations and poverty of Eastern cities to the purer life and the eventual comfort and plenty of homestead settlers in the far West. An Irish colony under his auspices is expected to settle in Holt County, far up towards the sources of the Elkhorn. This is a long distance beyond the present terminus of the railroad ; but the project is not without very con¬ siderable advantages. If the colony should be favour¬ ably started, the first settlers for three or four years will be able to sell their surplus produce to new comerá, and they will need but little transportation till the rail¬ way completes its inevitable course up the river. They will have a sufficiency of timber for building and fuel, and gn the whole there is every reason to believe that their settlement will be a substantial success. O'Neil goes into the matter with true Irish enthusiasm, dwell¬ ing upon the fertility of the soil and the numerous advantages of the project; and I have no doubt that he is perfectly sincere in the belief that the Celtic colony, with " The O'Neil" for its chieftain, will be an earthly paradise for all. Westpoint, the capital of Cumming County, is a very pleasantly situated, beautiful place, on the Elkhorn Kiver. It is one of the old towns " of Nebraska; and in addition to the natural fringe and small parks of timber on the Elkhorn, it has many thrifty groves and hedges, and it shows to admirable advantage what the 154 NEBRASKA hand of intelligent man can do, under favourable con¬ ditions, for the landscape of Nebraska in a very few years. It is well worth seeing, if only on this account. Mr. Joseph E. Spencer, who is settled in this county, says that he came, September 1st, 1867, with a team and some $300 in money. He commenced work on his homestead, a raw quarter section of land, with¬ out even a bush growing upon it. He had no farm machinery, except one stirring plough and a one- horse " corn plough." During the intervening seven years he has got up a comfortable hewed log-house 14 by 20 feet, with a frame addition 10 by 20. He has a good granary 20 by 22, and ample farm machinery; and has under cultivation 90 acres of plough land with 10 acres of forest trees of sizes and varieties such as Cottonwood, oak, ash, soft maple, black walnut, &c. Some of the cotton woods are 20 to 25 feet high, grown since he came here ; he has also purchased 31 acçes of timber land which furnishes him with fuel, cord-wood, saw logs, &c., in abundance. He has 100 fruit trees in thriving condition, some of which are bearing. He has grown as much as 60 bushels of corn per acre, 40 to 50 bushels of oats, and 20 to 30 bushels of wheat ; and he holds that the entire farm—with team, stock, crops, &c.—is worth to-day (1874) $4,000. He has found the climate in this locality e xcellent for health ; and the soil as good for all kinds of crops (especially wheat, Nebraska's staple) as can be found elsewhere. He is not by any means sorry that he has made this part of the beautiful Elkhorn Valley his permanent home, and he would advise emigrants who contemplate ON THE PLATTE AND THE ELKHORN. 155 coming West to make straight tracks for the Elkhorn Valley. We stopped for the night at Wisner, the temporary terminus of the railway ; and the next day, with a two- horse trap and driver, and a land surveyor and agent familiar with the country, we drove into Stanton County. For a dozen miles or more our route lay along the beautiful timber-skirted river to the little village which does duty as a county seat. Farmsteads were quite numerous, some of them substantial and tidy, and showing, by their artificial groves and otherwise, the marks of five or six years' occupancy. The soil is a very rich light sandy loam; and the wheat, oats, and barley were looking well. One German widow, with a cosy, well-situated farmstead, had 80 acres of good wheat, and 16 of maize. She was in pursuit of harvest hands, whom she expected to pay $2*50 per day and board; but she counted herself for one in the field, binding, as she said, with the best man among them. Her first wheat field was 16 acres, from which she sold about 500 bushels ; but last year a large part of her crop was destroyed by an overflow of the river. The German settlers are apt to work early and late, the women toiling with the men in the fields as much as possible ; and they thrive accordingly. After breathing our horses at the village, we crossed the river, and fol¬ lowed a devious course, principally along the banks of the Union Creek, to the south-western township of the county, where we stopped for the night at Craig City, a village of the future, at present consisting of a farmhouse, a little cabin, and a number of good farm 156 NEBKASKA. buildings. On this and an adjoining section were two fine fields of maize of about 320 acres. There were also about 100 swine, and a still larger number of very fair cattle. The whole township of thirty-six square miles is the property of a shrewd speculator in Ohio, and it was interesting to me as an almost unique attempt to combine a large farm with cattle breeding in enclosed grounds. Several years ago the proprietor set out thirty-six miles of hedge surrounding the township, and divided it into four equal parts. He employed a head farmer and assistants, as they would be called here, broke up parts of two sections, and made the necessary improvements for starting a good farm and a good herd of cattle, which he intended to increase as circumstances allowed. When his hedges should become good fences he intended to fill the township with cattle, to be képt without the trouble of herding. Some of these would be his own, and others kept for outsiders at a price. He expected the normal increase in the value of land to afford him a fair speculative profit, which this unique arrangement of his would vastly increase. But, unfor¬ tunately, he lived too far away for any active superin¬ tendence, and his first farm-bailiff was far from being the thorough-going man that he should have been. His hedge plant, the Osage orange, was also an unfor¬ tunate choice; it needs in Nebraska deeper setting and more careful attention than it gets, and it is therefore almost universally a failure. His hedge throve just sufficiently to encourage him, and in the end it amounted to little or nothing. His farm and his nursery of fruit-trees did much better; but it was ON THE PLATTE AND THE ELKHORN. 157 managed at some disadvantage, and the profits cannot have been very large. On the whole, the experiment was a decided failure. Judging from observation, I should say that under like circumstances, a willow, a box elder, or a cottonwood hedge would have thriven, in which case the owner would have reaped an enor¬ mous profit from his investment, if his cattle business were managed with reasonable discretion and judgment. « The land has appreciated in value in the meantime, and this will probably redeem the failure, and give the owner a fair profit. The peculiar circumstances of this western country are such, that shrewd speculators can often make up their books to win something in any event, while if they lose the race they lose nothing but the fine chance they had of making a fortuné. It is now proposed to divide Craig township into small farms for a colony of Bohemians, who will have the 6,000 fi*uit trees as an extra inducement, and also building lots in the " city " at a small price, the whole of which is to be expended in a fine brick school-house for their especial benefit. A good mill site will become the pro¬ perty of a competent miller for nothing; and, as the land is a deep, rich, well-watered lacustrine, it is to be hoped that this colony will soon become an accom¬ plished fact. We had sujîered considerably from the heat on our outward trip, but it was as a drop in the bucket to the woe that befel us on our return the next day. To see the country thoroughly we took another route, intend¬ ing to reach a certain house at mid-day, and, after rest and refreshment there, to drive on to Wisner in the cool 158 NEBRASKA. shades of evening. We drove across the prairie without a vestige of human existence around us for many miles ; the soil was table land or rolling prairie, with some small bottoms, almost every acre rich and lying nicely, but the vegetation was suffering for lack of rain. As the morning advanced the hot wind from the south in¬ creased in puffs and blasts as from some fiery furnace. By twelve o'clock our very moderately-driven horses were panting with open mouths, and scarcely able to proceed at a walk ; but they would drink very little of the hot water from the creeks, which was all we had for them or for ourselves. At half-past twelve we were by the side of an impassable ravine, three-quarters of a mile from our haven of rest ; we plodded our weary way along this ravine in search of a crossing for miles, and finally got around and around it, and to our much-needed refuge, at three o'clock. Here we found kind friends, an Irish family of the middle class, who hospitably entertained us, and as evening approached sent us on our way in the best possible condition that the circum¬ stances allowed. A storm came up, and cooled the air. Miles away to the west of us the rain could be seen falling in slanting streaks, plainly under the influence of a wind from the north ; miles away to the east of us it could be seen falling with a reverse inclination, the wind being there from the south. As we proceeded, the storm moved around us, and partly with us ; we seemed to be in a neutral protected spot, while the distant lightning flashed with dazzhng brilliancy, and sometimes simultaneously from many points, and lit up the sharp, rugged outlines of the moving mountainous ON THE PLATTE AND THE ELKHOEN. 159 clouds with a fiery splendour but seldom witnessed in any climate. We arrived at our destination in safety; but my wife, though thoroughly protected from the sun, was so badly burned by the mid-day wind, that the blisters only disappeared at the end of a fortnight, leaving their stamp behind them. It was said to be the hottest day in the memory of the oldest inhabitant ; and it was our misfortune to have felt, as few have need to do, its unmitigated effects. We had no thermometer, but we afterwards learned that it registered on this day at Fremont 106° in the shade. CHAPTER XI. ON THE ELKHOEN AND THE LOGAN. " Blackbird County."—The Winnebagoes.—The Omahas.—^Medi¬ cine men and measles.—A cheap refrigerator.—^My trip to the tribe- land.—^Lovely landscapes.—The Logan.—A brook-built Aqueduct.— Natural paddocks.—^Prices.—The tin-kettle triumphant.—The results.— Madison County.—Description.—A settler's experience.—Antelope County.—An old settler.—A four-year-old.—^Wayne County.—Its advantages and deficiencies.—^Pierce County. WO and one-third townships, nearly 55,000 acres of Gumming County, and the whole of what is sometimes known as Black Bird County, but which is strictly speaking lio county at all, are owned by the Omaha and the Winnebago Indians. The latter tribe numbers 2,322 persons (1874), and their reservation north of the Omahas consists of 109,800 acres of rich prairie adapted either to grazing or tillage. They are quiet, peaceable people, wearing citizens' clothing, electing chiefs annually, and preserving order by means of an Indian police. They cultivated 1,630 acres in 1874, harvesting 6,150 bushels of wheat, 12,000 bushels of maize, 700 bushels of oats, 1,000 ON THE ELKHORN AND THE LOGAN. 161 bushels of potatoes, and 500 bushels of beans. They have three day schools with an attendance of 147 pupils, nearly all boys. The Omahas number 951, and their reservation comprises 192,867 acres, of which 49,762 acres have been appraised for sale. They are peaceable, well-disposed, and nearly self-sustaining, the only government aid afforded them being $2 per caput annuity, and $10,000 per annum for schools and em¬ ployés. They harvested in 1874 over 3,000 bushels of wheat and nearly 35,000 bushels of maize, besides large quantities of beans and of potatoes and other vegetables. They own 700 horses, 175 head of cattle, and 200 hogs. In the course of the year they sawed 200,000 feet of timber, and built seven frame and eight log houses. The average daily attendance of their children in the schools was 104; 105, mostly children, can read English, and ten apprentices have obtained a very good knowledge of carpentering, and have built and finished several houses without government aid. The decrease in the numbers of the tribe was 50 between the enumerations of 1873 and 1874, and of the 76 deaths reported (less than the actual number) 67 were children, many of the deaths being caused by the combined influences of the measles and the Indian doctors. The united reservations of these two tribes are 18 miles wide from north to south, and about 32 in greatest width due east and west, and the frontage on the Missouri is upwards of 30 miles. Wisner is only about half-a-dozen miles from the nearest corner of the Omaha reservation, which I M 162 NEBEASKA. determined to visit on July 9tli, notwithstanding my rather warm experience of the 7th and 8th. Warned by experience I improvised an excellent re¬ frigerator, which was simply a large tin pail filled with ice, and well wrapped in blankets in such wise that I could gain ready access to the contents with very httle unwrapping or exposure of the surface to the air. We travelled north-eastward over a fine undulating country till we reached the reservation, when we turned north¬ ward over rich valleys, pleasant slopes, and fine tables, till we sighted the limits of the 50,000 acres or so which are offered for sale. We sometimes turned out of our course to examine survey marks, to get a more per¬ fect idea of the extent of a long irregular stretch of table land, or to avoid a doubtful crossing of some meandering stream almost concealed in the tall thick grass of the natural meadows. The landscape was exceedingly beautiful in all respects but one, it wanted patches and fringes of timber to render it perfect. After making our highest northing, we turned east¬ ward to the Logan. This stream is some 80 miles long in its general course, and its windings probably make up a matter of 120 to 150 miles. From the accom¬ panying map of North-eastern Nebraska the reader can form an opinion as accurate as my own in this respect. Where I saw it, it was in an impassable trench some 15 feet deep to the water's edge, and cut with pre¬ cipitous banks in a black soil, composed as I should say, very largely of peat which had decayed in conse¬ quence of drainage and exposure to the air. The bottom all along the river was very wide, and was ON THE ELKHORN AND THE LOGAN. 163 generally proved to be sufficiently well drained by tbe presence of tbe "Devil's sboe-string" in full bloom, and of other tell-tale plants. Occasionally along the margin of a choked tributary would be found a piece of swamp more or less miry. We crossed one tributary which had built for itself for a long distance an aque¬ duct considerably above the level of the bottom land. The work was not, however, complete ; it termi¬ nated in a miniature terrace over which the water issued, and lost itself in a swamp, which would doubt¬ less have been quite extensive but for trituration into the low channel of the Logan. A natural mound of fine land many acres in extent in the midst of the valley affords an excellent site for a mansion, from which one might enjoy a very extended prospect, and it would be so far removed fi:om the nearest swamp that I do not thiuk there would be any reason to fear malaria. I saw not in the whole long day's explora¬ tion a single acre incapable of profitable tillage, the swampy places even being capable of most easy drain¬ age, while of all the swelling lacustrine slopes not one was too steep for the plough. But this domain struck me as most admirably adapted for grazing purposes. It would easily carry 20,000 head of cattle and horses, and even more with quite moderate improvements. What makes it the better is its division into several natural paddocks by winding streams which cattle would not generally cross. Comparatively a very small amount of fencing would be needed to complete the inclosures. The average prices of the whole of this tract are less than three dollars an acre, and even at these 164 NEBKASKA. low prices, from special circumstances which I cannot here detail, it seems like a drug upon the market. The day was pleasant, and at no time too warm for my com¬ fort, and but for the fact that the partner of my joys and sorrows was hors de combat in a darkened room of the hotel, I should have most thoroughly enjoyed it. My refrigerator turned out admirably, and I can confidently recommend the same experiment to other travellers : we had plenty of ice for ourselves, we treated our horses in moderation to the same luxury, and we had some remaining when we arrived at the hotel well along in the evening hours. The result of my explorations and inquiries in Gumming^ and Stanton Counties is emi¬ nently favourable to their agricultural capacity. The northern parts are mostly made up of the bottoms of the Elkhorn and its tributaries, and these bottoms are very wide. The south-western portions of Gumming and the southern half of Stanton are made up chiefly of narrow bottoms and -rolling uplands, much of both kinds being of choice quality. The Elkhorn and some of its tributaries are fringed with timber, there are some springs, and water may be obtained by digging in the bottoms some 20 or 25 feet, and from 30 to 65 feet in the uplands. Madison County is the next west of Stanton, its ^ Strictly speaking, no part of the Omaha reservation can he considered a part of Gumming County, the local law notwithstanding, for the laws of the United States alone have force on Indian reservations. But when in due course the Indian title is extinguished the local statute will take effect, and in the meantime it is in general convenient to follow the accepted nomenclature. ON THE ELKHORN AND THE LOGAN. 165 nortliern portion is mostly made up of the bottom lands of the Elkhorn and its tributaries, and the balance of narrow bottoms and gently rolling prairies. The uplands are mostly lacustrine, and the bottoms of sandy alluvium, which contains a good proportion of carbonates and phosphate, and produces excellent wheat. After some years of the usual exhaustive cultivation, these elements will have to be restored. The bluffs are lacustrine, with occasionally the drift exposed. The county is timbered along the Elkhorn and some of its tributaries, and there are occasional springs. Water is obtained in bottoms at from 20 to 25 feet, and on the uplands at from 30 to 65 feet deep. On the Elkhorn is a mUl with four run of buhrs, and a circular saw-mill. The capital and chief town is Norfolk, on the north fork of the Elkhorn, it enjoys a fine situa¬ tion nearly in the centre of north-eastern Nebraska, and it is the centre of half-a-dozen postal routes. Mr. Wm. F. Trine owns a farm near Madison, in Madison County. He came from Iowa to Nebraska six years ago, at the age of forty-five^with his wife and four children. He had been farming rented land for a quarter of a century, and found it did not pay. When he started for Nebraska, he owned a team, a waggon, one cow, and a few household goods, and, on the top of all, there was some debt. He has now an excellent farm, well cultivated, and is on a cash basis. The land is his own, and he has on it a house which cost $200, and stabling for his live stock, which numbers five horses and eight neat cattle, beside hogs. The 166 NEBEASKA. grass is abundant and of good quality for feed and hay, and the average yield of wheat is 17 bushels per acre. Mr. Trine has planted extensively, and he recommends all settlers to follow his example, and in his opinion an acre of Cottonwood, of five years' growth, will furnish fuel for one stove without injury to the grove. Mr. Trine recommends new-comers to build for them¬ selves a frame-house, costing $150 to $200, while stabling sufficient for a few head of cattle can be built at the cost of the labour, with a few dollars for material. Mr. Trine also commends stock-raising and tree- planting. î^orth-west ward of Madison is Antelope County. The Elkhorn flows in a south-eastwardly course through its centre, and its bottom is from three to four miles wide, its tributaries in this county also having wide bottoms. The uplands are very gently rolling, and made up mostly of lacustrine and drift material. There is a considerable quantity of timber, principally cottonwood, black walnut, and elm. There are occasional springs, and well water is found at a depth of from 20 to 50 feet. In November, 1868, Mr. Crandall Hopkins migrated from Wisconsin and settled upon a homestead of 160 acres in the Elkhorn Valley in Antelope County, at that time his nearest neighbours being at a distance of twenty miles. His entire property consisted of six horses, three waggons, a colt, a few household utensils, and $600 in cash. The first year all his money was expended in building, in maintaining his family, and in purchasing farm implements ; and also ON THE ELKHORN AND THE LOGAN. 167 most of what he and his two sons earned in hauling timber for a mill, which was then being erected at Norfolk, thirty miles away from his homestead. The next breaking season he kept a team constantly em¬ ployed on the land ; and when returns began to come in from the sale of his produce, every dollar not needed for family wants was invested in land or cattle. In addition to his homestead of 160 acres, Mr. Hop¬ kins now owns 480 acres which he has purchased at the following prices :—80 acres for |100, 160 acres for $1,000, 80 acres for $500, and 160 acres for $1,344; and he has paid for the whole except the last-named 160, the final payment on which is not yet due. He has 200 acres under cultivation ; a good frame house, one and a half storeys high, a framed barn two storeys high, 40 acres of pasture under fence, six horses, seven colts, 80 head of cattle, and all necessary farming implements. During the year 1873 and the first eight months of 1874 he sold beef cattle to the amount of $4,000 and slaughtered 40 hogs. His crops have not been invariably good, but he has never had a better average in the States east where he has farmed than in Nebraska. His best crop of wheat was 25 bushels per acre over 40 acres ; and his best crop of corn 60 bushels per acre. Mr. Hopkins feeds all his grain to stock except wheat, and when wheat is low in the market he grinds that in his portable mill, and also uses it as feed. In this way he finds grain to pay best. Mr. Samuel P. Morgan is also a settler in Antelope County on the rolling prairie. He took up a home- 168 NEBKASKA. stead of 160 acres in June, 1870, at that time having no team, no farming tools, and not money enough to furnish his small log cabin. The first two years he worked out to maintain his fanuly ; but within that time he was also able to save money enough for the purchase of a yoke of steers and a cow. In September, 1874, he was out of debt, had 40 acres of land under cultivation, possessed a good yoke of oxen, two cows, a waggon, two ploughs, and general farming imple¬ ments. In the year 1873 his wheat threshed 29 bushels to the acre. Wayne County is north of Stanton, and it is one of the most beautiful regions in the State. It is watered principally by the Logan and its tributaries, and the western part of the county near the head-waters of the streams consists in a great measure of nearly level upland, sharply broken by deep ravines. Timber and fuel are the chief deficiencies of the county, but the people are now getting coal from the mine four miles north by west of Ponca, at about |3*50 per ton. This coal is a lignite, and is said to be nearly as good as that of Wyoming. There is some cottonwood on the Logan. There are occasional springs, and well water is to be found at from 20 to 40 feet depth. I suspect that when public attention is turned in that direction, the peat beds of the Logan will afford the cheapest fuel, unless in the meantime the artificial groves obtain a fair start, and begin to require thinning out. I know of no land superior to that which I have seen in the Logan Valley, of which in this county the bottoms are sometimes four miles wide. ON THE ELKHORN AND THE LOGAN. 169 Pierce County is between Wayne and Antelope, with Madison on the south. Its lands with few excep¬ tions are either level or gently undulating. It is watered chiefly by the north fork of the Elkhorn, with a width of three to five miles of bottom, and with wide reaches of alluvial on its tributaries. The uplands are lacustrine, with occasional drift. There is a very small amount of timber along the river, which flows on a sandy bed, and is from 10 to 25 yards wide. The water is good, springs are not numerous ; well water can be obtained at a depth of 20 to 25 feet. There are some water powers available. The county is as yet but very sparsely populated. CHAPTER XII. THE MISSOUEI TO THE NIOBKAEA. Washington County.—Buet County.—^River, lake.—The bluffs.— " The Mysterious Rocks."—Dakota County.—Soil, water.—^Railways.— Dixon County.—Lignite. — Five interesting confessions. — Cedak County.—Streams, soil, timber, and wild fruit.—^Mr. C. C. Van, a suc¬ cessful man.—Knox County.—United States Land Office.—The Santee Sioux.—The Poncas.—The Sioux.—Indian troubles. ASHINGTON County has the Missouri River on the east, and the Elkhorn on the west ; it is immediately north of Doug¬ las County, and it has the same general characteristics. - Its capital, Blair, is a railway junc¬ tion, and a busy and enterprising little town. Burt County is also on the Missouri, north of Washington and east of Cumming. The beautiful valley of the Logan extends through all of its western townships; the rest of the county is chiefly rolling, or somewhat hilly and broken ; it is well watered, and the lacustrine soil yields a good return for the toil of the farmer. Burt County is watered in the western townships by the Logan, and in the east the Missouri bottom is sometimes upwards of half-a-dozen miles in width. THE MISSOURI TO THE NIOBRARA. 171 Near Jekamali, the capital, is one of those lakes of which there are many in Iowa, and few in Nebraska, and that shows an ancient position of the Missouri channel which is now removed half-a-dozen miles away. Below this point the bluffs are lacustrine, and very rugged, com¬ posed chiefly of lacustrine with a base of drift gravel ; but here the sandstones begin to appear, and they be¬ come very conspicuous in the Omaha reservation about eight miles above Decatur. On the perpendicular walls of these bluffs the aborigines of former ages have carved in hieroglyphics rude records of their history, which remind one of the more elaborate rock-writings of Arabia. These markings are in such inaccessible positions as would tend to show that great changes have occurred in these chalk-coloured sandstone bluffs since they were made, and that they are therefore com¬ paratively ancient. They are called by the Indians the Medicine, or Mysterious Kocks. The population of Burt County was 2,844 in 1870, and 3,866 in 1874. Next northward of Burt County are the Indian Reservations, which I have already described at some length, and still ïiorth of these in the rounded north¬ eastern corner of the State is Dakota County, some portions of which are level and others broken. The bottoms are wide and the soil choice alluvium. The upland is generally lacustrine, and excepting two townships there is very little sand. The principal streams are the Omadi, Pigeon, and Elm Creeks, which run in alluvial beds and are muddy when the water is high, but they áre generally clear. There are living springs in great numbers. Excellent water is obtained 172 NEBRASKA. in the Missouri bottom at the level of the river, but one has generally to go much deeper in the lacustrine. The western terminus of the Iowa division of the Illinois Central Eailway is on the Missouri east of this county, as is also the south-western terminus of the Sioux City and St. Paul Railways. The river will probably be bridged, and then this little county is not unlikely to obtain very considerable importance. Dixon County consists of lacustrine uplands, with sometimes a little drift, and of alluvial bottoms, and the .surface of the upland varies from gently undu¬ lating to rolling and considerably broken. The valley of the Logan is as usual very wide, and its bluffs are generally gently sloping. A bed of lignite said to be 30 inches thick and of very good quality is now being worked near Ponca, the county seat, and if this should turn out equal to the claims that are made for it, it will very largely benefit this county and the contiguous parts of the State. Mr. Martin Lockwood, of South Creek, Dixon County, says :—" It is not strange to me that people possessed of health and energy should prosper in a country which has soil equal to any in the northern States at least, producing all kinds of grain in abun¬ dance, and having an excellent range for stock. The valleys are much the richest ; but the uplands do well with manure, as we proved the last season. Wheat in some seasons has yielded 42 bushels to the acre, corn 75, oats 60, barley 40 to 50; and an average 3deld is about two-thirds of these figures." Mr. Wm. S. Cowie and family settled in Dixon County THE MISSOUKI TO THE NIOBRARA. 173 in 1870 witli absolutely nothing. Since that time he has bought and lost a pair of horses ; but he has now a fine pair of horses and outfit, 12 head of cattle, about 25 hogs, 60 acres of land under cultivation, farming implements, some young timber planted, and is out of debt with his present crop on hand. Mr. Henry Allen came the same year with a pair of horses, a waggon, and a small amount of other property. He has now about 60 acres of land under cultivation, some young timber planted ; and his property is worth about $1,200. Mr. Wm. H. Pomeroy and John Green settled here in the Fall of 1870 in rather impecunious circum¬ stances ; but by dint of economy and industry have made themselves a home, are constantly accumu¬ lating, and will soon be independent. All of these gentlemen are settled at South Creek, in Dixon County. Mr. Wm. H. Füley and family, with his father, settled in Dixon County, about seven years ago. They had one span of horses ; and landed in Nebraska with a cash capital of $5T5. After encountering great privations and difficulties they have accumulated nearly $3,000 worth of property besides improvements, having about 150 acres of land, fenced and under cultivation. Cedar is a good county, notwithstanding that more or less drift, a deposit of gravel, pebbles, and sand comes to the súrface in more than half of the town¬ ships comprised within it. In the southern part there is exceedingly fine land, nearly as level as a house- floor, and yet well drained in consequence of the peculiar nature of the lacustrine soil. The principal streams are the East, Middle, and West Bow, and 174 NEBRASKA. Beaver Creek. The water runs over gravel and is very pure. There are numerous springs. In the Missouri bottoms, elm, bass, hackberry, box, elder, soft maple, ash, hickory, black walnut, coffee-tree, red cedar, and red and white willow, are to be found, and wild grapes and plums grow luxuriantly on the banks of all the creeks. Mr. 0. C. Yan has a very fine farm of 2,000 acres in the valley of Bow Creek, near St. James, in Cedar County, North Platte, Nebraska. He is fifty-eight years of age, has a family of four children, and entered Nebraska three years ago from De Moines, Iowa. Before settling in Nebraska, Mr. Yah had farmed but little, though he had had a farm twenty-eight years, and understood the theory. He has 120 head of cattle, 20,000 forest and fruit trees set out on his land, 700 acres under fence, and 500 in cultivation, and his farm is worth $20,000. He finds the rainfall sufficient for his crops, which- include all kinds of grain. The lands are fertile ; and the cost of breaking the prairie is $2*50 per acre, when labour is hired, and $1*50 per acre the second ploughing. Wheat averages 20 bushels per acre. Mr. Yan shelters his stock during the winter, though he has wintered them without taking that care. He con¬ siders that to herd stock is cheaper than to fence the land. Mr. Yan is an example of what a farmer in Nebraska may accomplish who starts with a capital of $5,000 or £1,000. A farm of 2,000 acres is too much for the capital, and a section, or 640 acres, would be sufficient. But with a section one half might be put in cultivation, and other half retained for stock. THE MISSOUEI TO THE NIOBEARA. 175 and the whole operation would be profitable. It is to be hoped that this gentleman's sons will know how to follow their father's example, and be worthy members of the vanguard of Nebraska. Knox is a large, and, as I believe, a fine county on the Missouri and the Niobrara, and its county seat, Niobrara, is at the junction of these rivers. It is the seat of the United States Land Office for Northern Nebraska, which has been removed here this year from Dakota City, where it is to be presumed that its use¬ fulness had begun to wane. The Santee Sioux, 791 in number, are located in this county on the Missouri Eiver, on a reservation of 115,200 acres, of which the Indian Department reports one-fourth as adapted to tillage, and nearly all of the rest suitable for grazing. These Indians wear citizens' dress and are the most civilized of all the Sioux. Last year was very un¬ fortunate for them, but nevertheless the agent reports a steady improvement on the part of the tribe. They hold their lands by allotment in severalty, an improve¬ ment recently introduced, and which is likely to be very beneficial. The Ponca Indians, numbering 730, have a reservation of 96,000 acres across the Niobrara opposite this county in Dakota territory. They are an inoffensive, agriculturally disposed people, speaking the same language as the Omahas, and at the desire of both tribes it is now proposed to remove them to the reservation of the latter, giving that of the Poncas to the Sioux ; of this latter tribe there are several branches more or less inclined to civilization settled on reservations in Dakota, some of them near the Nebraska 176 NEBRASKA. border. There is, however, no danger of their giving trouble. But as a whole the Sioux tribe, numbering some 53,000 souls, is very wild, and but for the pre¬ sence of the military would be exceedingly dangerous. They have a reservation in south-western Dakota, larger than one-half of Nebraska, and they wander over this and wide regions in Montana, Dakota, Wyoming, and north-western Nebraska, occasionally making a raid on the inoffensive Poncas, whose lands they claim for themselves.' In 1873-4 there was great danger of a Sioux war, which 'would have operated as a serious check upon the counties contiguous to their haunts, but the prompt and judicious display of a moderate militg-ry force was sufficient to cow them, while Uncle Sam's rations also acted most efficiently to check their military spirit. They are being somewhat rapidly col¬ lected at agencies where they will be tamed, and where they will dwindle to insignificance. CHAPTER XIII. ON THE PLATTE AND THE LOUP. Colfax Cotjnty.—Schuyler.—Platte County.—Columbus.—^Ne- braskan barber-ism vßrsws country curacies.—Shaving by wholesale.—The bottom land,—^Wbat was it ?—Shell Creek.—Terraces.—^Upland.—Rail- ' V way lands.—Polk and Butler Counties.—The bridge.—The grass. — " Ranching."—Melons.—Soil characteristics. — The " Devil's shoe¬ string" and rosin weed.—Alkaline lands.—A lacustrine table.—^Wells.— Streams.—Cultivation.—Railway lands.—Boone County.—Pawnee Re¬ servation.—The tribe.—Merrick County. ETURNING now to the valley of the Platte and the line of the Union Pacific Railway, we find Colfax County, the next westward of Dodge, and Schuyler its capital, a neat little town embowered in ybung and thriving trees which indicate a settlement of several years' standing, and already dispense a cool and refresh¬ ing shade. I visited Schuyler, but did not drive out in this county. Platte County comes next westward, and Columbus, its county seat, is near its south-eastern border. Driving out north-westward from this point across Shell Creek, and well up into the upland por¬ tions of the county, then sweeping southward nearly to N 178 NEBRASKA. Colfax County and back to Columbus, I was able to get a good general idea of both counties. Columbus is a thriving business centre, and it boasts the oldest bridge on the Platte. I should jiidge that a moderate importation of country barbers might do well in Nebraska, particularly if they could wield spades as well as scissors and razors, and cultivate fine vegetable gardens in the intervals of tonsorial idleness. I paid here, for a rough-and-ready clipping of my hair, 35 cents, or Is. 4í¿., in a rough-and-ready shop, to a rough-and-ready barber, who clearly had no lack of customers. I estimated that I engaged his valuable time not exceeding five minutes, at which rate two hours' work per day for six days in the week would give him an income of £449 4s. per year, and make him the envy of our country lawyers and doctors, to say nothing of the poor curates. This tonsorial pro¬ fessor's charges were not especially extravagant; but as far as I could learn, 35 cents for hair-cutting, and 15 cents for a shave, is the rule in Nebraska, not exceeded in the most perfectly appointed establish¬ ment in Omaha, nor diminished in the roughest apology for a shop in a small market town. But shaving tickets are cheaper in wholesale quantities, being |1*50 per dozen, from which it is easy to see that, if one had leisure to take twelve consecutive shaves in twelve consecutive hours, he would be 30 cents, or what the " professors " consider the same thing, two clean shaves the richer at the end of the well-spent day. Unfortunately, I could not avail myself of this method of getting rich, because in this line, like Sir Wilfrid ON THE PLATTE AND THE LOUP. 179 Lawson in another, I am a total abstainer as a matter of principle. The Loup River joins the Platte near Columbus, and the bottom land north of the latter river is very materially widened for many miles in consequence. Much of this bottom is a most excellent sandy loam, but in some of it there is an excess of alkaline matter, and there are also large quantities that are too sandy. On the whole, I think that very fair to excellent land predominates, but one cannot take a farm hap-hazard in the bottom with any safety, as he might do on some of the table-lands. Strange as it may appear, these differences in the quality of this soil are owing almost entirely to winds. I think that the whole bottom nearly as far eastward as the Loup Valley extends was once a wide expanse of nearly level sand. This was blown about by the winds, it accumulated in hillocks, and finally became massed to a great extent in ridges of hills on a comparatively small area of the original plain of pliocene sand. That which was left afforded a better hold for vegetation ; humus gradually col¬ lected, and checked the too great porosity of the soil ; and as a result of rains and overflows, the very great excess of saline and alkaline matters was mostly carried away, portions of it remaining however in slight depres¬ sions and near the top of the clayey stratum, which is sometimes laid bare, and is often, but not always, found within a few feet of the surface. Thus it happens that, besides the sand hills proper, there are three main varieties of soil in the bottoms, occurring very irregularly ; the dark, rich, sandy soil, the light- 180 NEBRASKA. coloured, coarser, poor sandy soil, generally slightly elevated above the other, and the clayey alkaline soil, generally slightly depressed. A matter of a few inches of elevation will often determine for good or bad the quality of the soil; there will be patches of a thousand acres or more almost precisely uniform ; and, again, there will be single acres in which the total variation from a level is less than a couple of feet, and where one wiU find more than one patch of each of these varieties. In Platte and Colfax Counties there is an abrupt bluff some 50 feet high, beyond which for one to three nfiles or more is a fine table land, or a gently undulating prairie, in reality a terrace indicating an ancient level of the water ; then comes a considerable depression, forming the valley of Shell Creek, which runs for many miles nearly parallel to the Platte. This valley is exceedingly rich and beau¬ tiful. Beyond it the bluff rises again to a total height of from 100 to 130 fe^t above the Platte Bottom, when it stretches off far to the northward in gentle undulations and fine tables of the wonderful lacustrine deposit. This remarkable formation of the upland in two im¬ mense terraces is not to be found on the Platte east of Shell Creek. [See Fig. 43, p'. 127.] There is room for choice in the upland ; while all that 1 have seen is very good, some portions • are richer than others, and some portions offer greater advantages in position*, in¬ clination, &c. There is a prosperous colony of Welsh farmers on Shell Creek. In the northern part of Platte County there is a considerable amount of good upland belonging to the Government still open for all ON THE PLATTE AND THE LOUP. 181 comers. This is generally some twenty miles or more from the railway, but some of those who obtain free farms thereon will find themselves in a few years on the line of some other railroad. One from Sioux City in the north-east, in continuation of the Sioux City and St. Paul's, will make Columbus its objective point, and eventually there will be one towards the north-west. The Union Pacific Kailway has 120,000 acres in the county, at prices ranging from $3 to $8. It has also 60,000 in Colfax, at $3 to $10. On July 11th, 1874, I drove out from Columbus into Polk and Butler Counties, south of the Platte. I first had to cross the Loup by a ferry, the bridge having been carried away by the spring floods. From the ferry a drive of about a mile, with a small ridge of sand hills to the left of us, a very sandy road beneath us, and generally very thick, tall, strong grass to the right of us, brought us to the Platte Bridge, of which the main structure is nearly 1,700 feet long. Crossing this we were on a long, narrow, sandy island, mostly covered with strong, heavy grass, but with patches of young willows and other woods. Another mile brought us to a bridge some 400 feet in length, with the main Platte Bottom at the further end, stretching off for a width of about four miles. By far the largest portion of this bottom bears a strong, thick grass, which shows no signs of being injuriously affected by the present dry season. All such land, if not subject to overflow, is excellent of its kind. It stands equally well exces¬ sive rain or drought, and the strength of the native vegetation proves the richness of the soil. This is 182 NEBEASKA. ordinarily called by the settlers a deep rich black sand or sandy loam. It is in reality a yellowish-grey sand, intermixed with so much humus and other dark, matter that the general colour is nearly black. It is ex¬ tremely porous, light, and quick, and makes the best possible soil for sweet potatoes and water melons. Very much of it would probably be found too porous, if subjected for several years to the amount of rainfall that we have in some portions of England. My land¬ lord at Columbus was a ranch man in the old times before the advent of the railway, when the overland trade was freighted through in waggons. His ranch was in this bottom. The first year he cured 40 tons of hay^ and sold it at retail to the freighters at $20 per ton. The second year he raised maize at a cost under 25 cents, and sold at $2*50. He also had a melon patch. He says the vines were planted in a rod square, and he estimates that they covered the ground for some twelve feet around. This would give about five square rods. Return freighters and gold diggers were lavish of money, and he sold some of his melons fi-om this patch at half-a-dollar a piece. The yield was enormous, and his sales amounted to upwards of £12. This seems almost incredible ; but water melons are like cucumbers in this respect, that flowers and fruit grow together, and those that are plucked are replaced by others, till a very large number is sometimes produced by a single fruitful vine. Whether the distant vista of the past has lent enchantment to my landlord's view of his ancient melon patch, or whether he states but the sober reality I cannot say, but I can testify that he has ON THE PLATTE AND THE LOUP. 183 prospered, and that his hotel flourishes like Jonah's gourd or his own melon patch. A portion of the bottom land consists almost exclusively of the yel¬ lowish-grey sand, without the humus. It is somewhat coarser in texture, more porous, suffers quickly from drought, and it is undesirable for farms while excellent land can be had at present prices. Some patches of the bottom are alkaline, and they are generally con¬ sidered undesirable. These may be known by the short, wiry, salt grass, by the baking of the soil, and by several other characteristics. The most striking characteristics of the various soils show at a glance at this season of the year. The "Devil's shoe-string" is in bloom, and shows a dry soil generally rich in humus. The rosin weed is in its glory, and shows a soil rich in lime compounds. Where both are abundant the soil is very rich, well drained, and not easily exhausted. But these and most of the other numerous signs of the quality of the soil, though less striking at other seasons of the year, are quite plain to the observant eye, and it is not really difficult to judge of wild land at any time when its native vegetation can be seen. I think that in the Platte Bottom the alkaline land, little liked at present, wiU prove to be very good in the long run. I saw but little of it in my drive, but I crossed in aU a width of nearly a mile that I considered too sandy. The Platte Bottom terminates in the south in a sharp bluflf, beyond which, for a width of ten miles or more, stretches a magnificent table-land of high prairie, the soil (lacus- crine deposit) blackened with the decayed vegetation 184 NEBRASKA. of intervening ages. I took a circuit of some twenty miles on this plateau without crossing a stream, or even a considerable depression from the general level. The rain gradually sinks where it falls, or a portion of it flows gently to slight depressions and sinks there, pervading the whole immense deposit with moisture, and filling the first stratum of sand, 100 feet to 130 feet below, with living water. Wells must be sunk through the lacustrine into the sand, and stock must be watered therefrom. This is the chief drawback; and I noticed that several of the settlers had already overcome the difficulty by the erection of windmill pumps. There are but slight differences in the quality of land on this plateau ; all of it is fine, and, with good deep ploughing, any of it will stand the severest drought. The absence of streams is as much a characteristic of lacustrine tables as of deserts on the one hand, or swamps on the other. But the same for¬ mation, where, owing to currents and eddies in the ancient lake, it has been deposited in ridges, hiUs, and gentle undulations, has numerous streams, a portion of the water running off the surface before it can be absorbed. Cultivation so increases the absorbing qualities of the soil that many ravines which contain water for a portion of the year will become dry with the advent of the plough on the lacustrine slopes that feed them; while others, that are sometimes torrents and sometimes little standing pools, will maintain a permanent flow, but slightly affected by rain or drought. Boone County is north-westward of Platte and south ON THE PLATTE AND THE LOUP. 185 of Antelope. Shell Creek waters its north-eastern townships. Beaver Creek flows diagonally through its centre, and Cedar Creek waters the extreme south¬ west. The bottoms of these streams, as far as my information extends, are from half-a-mile to two miles wide and fine alluvial lands, while in the upland the lacustrine is the prevailing type, and this in portions is considerably broken. The Pawnee reservation, of 283,200 acres, is between Boone and Merrick Counties, and west of Platte. It has some timber, is well watered by the Loup and a number of fine streams its tributaries, and is excellent both for grazing and tillage. 48,424 acres have been appraised to be sold in trust for the Pawnees. This tribe, which but recently roamed over vast regions of the American continent, and was noted both for its numbers and prowess, now numbers 1,788 souls, as peaceable and inoffensive as dirty, lazy vagabonds and vagrants can well be supposed to be. Wandering parties of them pitch their tents about Columbus and other towns, and live principally by begging, gathering the refuse of slaughtered cattle and other waste of the whites, by dressing skins, and by the labour of their squaws at the washing tub and in other domestic drudgery. When the railway was first built they were far more powerful than at present, but I am informed that they never interfered with the track or the trains, but they seem to have obtained a sort of customary right to travel on the freight trains free of charge, and they avail themselves somewhat liberally of this privi¬ lege, thus taking excursions for a hundred miles or 186 NEBRASKA.. more in either direction along the line. They are not allowed on the passenger trains, and the traveller seldom sees any of them unless he stops off at some place where a wandering party has pitched its tents. These are probably below the average specimens of their tribe, for nearly 1,700 acres were cultivated by them on their reservation last year, their labours un¬ fortunately meeting with a poor reward from the com¬ bined effects of drought, grasshoppers, and Colorado beetles. I understand that the whole tribe has now removed to the Indian territory. Merrick County [See Map, South Central Nebraska] lies almost entirely between the Platte and the Loup, and consists very largely of bottom land such as I have already described, that on the Loup being on the whole exceptionally fine. Intervening between these two flood plains is undulating sandy prairie, fair to excellent in quality, with Prairie Creek running eastwardly through the middle. There are also ridges of sand hills covered with nutritious grasses, and there is some of that lacustrine upland which is the predominant type of the prairies of Nebraska. I shall now change the subject, and give in the next chapter a short his¬ torical sketch which has been prepared for me by an English journalist who is now settled in the State. CHAPTER XIY. THE HISTOEY OF NEBEASKA. By Oscae, a. Mullon. Part of the Louisiana purchase.—Indian tribes.—Boundaries.—The traders.—Colonel Sarpy.—Californian emigration.—The Mormons.—Free soil and slavery.—Former extent of Nebraska.—The first áettlers.—^New metes and bounds.—The progress of settlement.—Two pioneers.—" The knights of the golden " sands.—Civil war and Indian troubles.—The Union Pacific Eailway.—The Burlington and Missouri Eiver Eaüway.— An industrial revolution.—Political history.—The capital.—A constitu¬ tional convention.—The questions of the day. EBRASKA is included in the enormous tract of territory which fell to the United States by what is known as the Louisiana purchase, and for a number of years it was a portion of the north-western territory. The traces of its early history are not numerous. The present State of Nebraska was occupied by several tribes of Indians. During the period the white man has known the country, the Sioux—of which tribe there are several branches— have been the most numerous. The next tribe in numbers and consideration were the Pawnees. These were, and are, the hereditary enemies of the Sioux, but 188 NEBEASKA. their power during this time had been waning before that of their enemies ; and in 1854, when the first per¬ manent settlements were made in Nebraska, the Paw¬ nees did not number more than 6,000 all told, of whom about 1,000 were warriors. The Otoes—another well- known tribe—at this time only numbered about 1,000 individuals. There were also, as now, the Omahas, and some other unimportant tribes, allies of the Sioux, and remnants of once-powerful peoples, reduced by disease, privation, and internecine warfare. Practically, when the white came to know them, the Sioux dominated thé territory ; but they resided chiefly north of the Platte River, and in the western parts of the State. The south-eastern portion of the State south of the Platte was occupied by the Otoes. The Pawnees were west of them ; and there were continual disputes between the two as to the line of boundary. The tribes overlapped, the Otoes going as far west as the Blue, and the Pawnees coming east of the Salt Creek. The principal village of the Pawnees was at the junction of the Salt Creek with the Platte River, at about the place where Ashland now stands. The first inroads on the Indian sovereignty were made, of course, by the traders, who dealt with the Indians for their furs, &c. The first settlement in the region was made at Belle Vue, which is on the Missouri, between Omaha and the Platte River. This was one of the American Pur Company's trading posts ; and at its head was Colonel Peter A. Sarpy, a member of a French family, well known on the frontier, and himself distin¬ guished for his enterprise, sagacity, and courage. Like THE HISTORY OF NEBRASKA. 189 the majority of the traders, Colonel Sarpy dwelt at peace with the Indians. In the frontier sense of the word, he was a white man himself—as white as Cooper's hero ; and he was always chivalrous enough to defend the Indians by word and deed. The final fall of the Indians seems to have begun with the overland emi¬ gration to California in 1849. The bands of emigrants crossed the Missouri Eiver at Old Fort Kearney (Nebraska City), at Plattsmouth, at Belle Yue, and at Council Bluflfs. They travelled over the plains in waggons drawn by horses and mules, and there were among them perhaps T,000 men to a woman. The contact of these passing trains of gold-seekers was as a plague to the Indians, introducing diseases among them which maxie havoc in the savage ranks. The Californian emigration passed over the country, and left little trace of its flow. There were ranches for the sale of supplies at Belle Yue, Council Blufis, and Plattsmouth; and from thence to Fort Kearney, the emigrants had to depend on the stores they carried in their waggons, and on their guns, the larger game being plentiful on the prairies, though when on the march— and not on a regular hunt—the supply of game from hunting is somewhat precarious. The Mormons made a large trail across the State in their march to Salt Lake. They endured hardships, of course, but their movements were more systematic and better ordered than those of the irregular forces who moved upon the gold mines of California; and their paths across the prairies are still distinctly marked by the vegetation. Tall sunflowers frequently shade them 190 NEBRASKA. in the summer time, and form a portion of the Ne- braskan archaeological record. The moral contest—diversified by resorts to the carnal weapon—between the slave and free-soil parties, which resulted in the passing of the Kansas and Ne¬ braska Act, began the settlement of Nebraska. The organic Act of Congress, which constituted Nebraska a territory, and opened the public lands to settlement, was approved on May 30, 1854. The territory of Nebraska covered an enormous region. Its area com¬ prised 351,558 square miles. Its northern boundary was the British-American line ; its southern boundary the 40th parallel of latitude ; its western, the summits of the Kocky Mountains; and, practically, its eastern boundary was the Missouri River, the Red River of the north and a meridian line connecting the two. From this time Nebraska was under a territorial government— with the ordinary incidents of such a condition—the Organic Act providing that when the territory came to be admitted as a state or states, " the said territory, or any portion of the same, shall be received into the Union, with or without slavery, as their constitution may prescribe at the time of their admission." This provision was a necessary concession to the then pre¬ dominant sentiment in Congress. Nebraska was to be a slave state, if the people willed ; a free state, if such was the ruling of the people. The geographical position of the territory had, however, settled that question. The country was, and is, altogether in the westward line of migration from the Free States. The farmers of Michigan, Wisconsin, Illinois, and Iowa were the settlers THE HISTORY OF NEBRASKA. 191 in Nebraska—the builders who laid the foundations of the State. In the southern counties, close to the Mis¬ souri, a large element of southern blood was introduced ; but this element was never strong enough to be a power in society. From the beginning, therefore, slavery was a dead issue in Nebraska, though in the earlier days there were some few persons held to slavery m the territory ; and there is one instance of the sale of two slaves under legal process. There was no chance what¬ ever of the experiences of " bleeding Kansas " being re¬ peated in Nebraska. The sentiment of freedom was overpowering, such pro-slavery feeling as existed not being of sufficient strength to present even the remotest point of danger. But Nebraska did not long continue to embrace the wide territory first given to it. New territories were carved out of its domain by acts of Congress. In 1861 Colorado and Dakota were constituted, the first obtaining • 16,035 square miles from Nebraska, and the second 228,907 square miles ; but in the same year Nebraska obtained 15,378 square miles from Utah and Washington territories and on the south-west slope of the Kocky Mountains, north of the 41st parallel, and east of the 110th meridian west from Greenwich. In 1863, how¬ ever, Nebraska was further curtailed of its dimensions. The territory of Idaho was formed, taking 45,999 square miles from Nebraska. The result was Nebraska as now limited, taking away from Nebraska the whole of the mountain district, and leaving the land an homo¬ geneous prairie state, whose wealth will be founded upon its agricultural and grazing interests. It is better as 192 NEBRASKA. it is. The country is compact, one in interest, and therefore readily governed. From the date of the organization of the territory the settlement of Nebraska has proceeded until now. The tract of bluff land immediately west of the Missouri was first occupied for about ten miles inland. The earliest settlers encountered the usual hardships of frontier life. They really passed beyond civilization when they crossed the Missouri. They were in a land where the Indians ruled. They had to build their houses, cultivate their farms, and contest for supremacy with the Indians. But there were among those earliest settlers men of mark—men of intellect, who would have made a place for themselves in any community in the world. The infant settlements took tone from these men. Espe¬ cially they seemed to know how to deal with the Indians ; and the policy of peace and conciliation which prevailed effectually prevented any Indian troubles. In the country where the first settlements were made there is a large body of timber ; and for many years it was feared, that out upon the prairies where the timber did not naturally grow, successful farming would be impossible. There was gradual steady growth along the river. Towns were founded and flourished ; and the land brought under cultivation made fertile farms. A few pioneers pushed out forty, fifty, or sixty miles fi-om the Missouri, but their difficulties in making things comfortable about them were generally very great. I met one of these pioneers sixty miles from the Missouri. His house was built of lumber that he had SOUTH CENTRAL l^aihvavs ßi^n/ula/ir.s Ccuithy Seal s YORK t'ost Hrulrs beififunttij >' ■ f/u fiaueee Of I the reales (/i f¡ele lite /auahers ef ffuiiJs ffcr u reA- '* — Special Mail Supply Mail Messeaper uL RESERVATtOK UNITED STATES SURVEYS lia bfaalt sifiidfTs are each (ViC ffiiie (^f t/M' (lereb. / or tuore (iciaiiea i \ rp/a/mli( 7/y see fíeo/e píf i/e 1/5. rh UplcVfuh JuAjson. m THE HISTORY OF NEBRASKA. 193 carted all that distance from the river. His means were small ; he could not go into the stock business and let his produce transport itself; there was little for it but to work and wait. After the exhaustion of their original supplies the food of such persons was Indian com and pork, or the products of the chase, till the land was sufficiently subdued for wheat and other crops. My friend waited to good purpose. The rail¬ way came, and he attained a very comfortable fortune with which, in the restless spirit proverbially belonging to the pioneer, he departed to fight with fate in other regions. Another pioneer, now a prominent lawyer, declares that in those early days he ate so much " coon" that he never approaches any timber without feeling an almost irresistible inclination to "scratch" up a tree. The next stage in Nebraska's progress, however, dates from the rush to Cherry Creek—better known as the Pike's Peak expeditions of 1859 and 1860. Cherry Creek is within a few miles of what is now Denver City. Gold had been discovered there, and in the neighbouring gulches ; and the whole country—east and north and south—was moved to dig for it. This second pilgrimage for gold was terrible, earnes mad. All kinds and conditions of men were d. into it. The road to the holy land of gold again through Nebraska. The men of the south-east found their best starting point at St. Joseph, in Missouri. Another stream of migration struck Nebraska at Brownville, another at Nebraska City, and yet an¬ other at Omaha. The St. Joseph and Brownville con¬ tingents met in the Little Blue Valley. Thoçe who 0 194 NEBRASKA. started from Nebraska City traversed the prairie to the Big Blue Eiver, crossing it at the place where the city of Crete now stands, and thence they turned towards the Platte River. The pilgrims by way of Omaha all traversed the Platte Valley on its northern bank. The first objective point was Fort Kearney. There all the streams converged, and thence flowed on together in the valley of the Platte, turning south to their destination at about meridian 105 west of Greenwich. This gold-seeking movement bruited abroad the fame of Nebraska as an agricultural coun¬ try. Some of the voyageurs stopped by the way, and opened up farms. Some others, whose expectations came to nothing in the gold country, returned in a style of rough comfort as good as that in which they went out, but many came back in most pitiful plight, having endured hunger, nakedness, and many dangers by the way, and having been nearly devoured by the mosquitoes in the under-brush on the islands of the Platte, where they had hidden in the daytime, travel¬ ling by night through fear of Indians not altogether friendly. Others, who took the back track and "busted," settled in the Platte YaUey, the valley of the Big Blue, and the valley of the Little Blue ; and their success attracted still others, who joined with them in pos¬ sessing the land. This was a substantial gain to the country. The territory, which had hitherto been merely traversed by nomads, was settled by residents ; and it now remained only to establish the railroad system in order to give to Nebraska its latest development. In the meantime, however, progress was retarded. THE HISTORY OF NEBRASKA. 195 The civil war broke out ; and, simultaneously there¬ with, Indian troubles. Nebraska raised two regiments. One did good service against the Confederacy ; the. other effectually disposed of the Indians who had har¬ assed the frontier. In the year 1862, Congress passed the first of the Pacific Kailroad Acts ; and in 1863 the Union Pacific Railroad Company was organized. The ground was broken in December, 1863, and the first contract for work was entered into early in 1864. It was prosecuted vigorously ; and in May, 1869, the Union Pacific from Omaha and the Central Pacific from San Francisco were united at Ogden in Utah. The Bur¬ lington and Missouri River Railroad Company, whose line of road ran from Burlington, on the Mississippi, across Iowa to the Missouri, had also at this time an interest in Nebraska by virtue of an Act of Congress, passed in 1864, enabling the company to extend its line from Plattsmouth, on. the Missouri River, to a junction with the Union Pacific at or near the 100th meridian. The company transferred its rights to a company organized under the laws of Nebraska; and the construction of the road was commenced in 1869, and finaRy completed to its junction with the Union Pacific at Fort Kearney, a distance of nearly 200 miles, in the year 1872. This is the main line of the Bur¬ lington and Missouri ; but in addition the company has a branch nearly twenty miles long, connecting with Omaha; and another, about thirty miles long, from Crete to Beatrice. These are the most important rail¬ ways in Nebraska, and they have performed a large 196 NEBRASKA. part in promoting the development of the country. They have each a large land grant conferred on them to aid in constructing their roads; and it is a vital point in their policy to sell these lands to settlers, so as to build up a permanent local traffic for themselves in their capacity as carriers. Other railways of more or less importance have also sprung into existence, and in January, 1875, there were upwards of 1,100 miles in the State. By such means a comparatively new country may experience changes in social and industrial matters analogous to those which make the history of older nations. The social and industrial revolution resulting from steam travel in Europe and in the Eastern States of America, has been felt in Nebraska. In the ante-railroad days the carriers of the plains were known as freighters. The river towns were their depots. There the freighters obtained their merchandise, provisions of all kinds, and dry goods, which they conveyed slowly across the prairie in waggons to the frontier posts, and to the settlements in the mining regions among the mountains. The trade was a lucrative one to the river towns and settlements, and to the freighters. Weeks were expended in the journeys, the freighters being slow but sure. There were regular stopping places on the way—inns of a rude sort, known as ranches, which, being planted at convenient places, have in many cases formed the centre around which settle¬ ments have gathered. The men who kept them were, in the majority of instances, rough denizens of the frontier, who kept themselves in readiness to hold their THE HISTORY OF NEBRASKA. 197 own against all comers. They were mostly in a state of deadly hostility with the Indians, whose attacks on the ranche were not infrequent, though usually it was the Indian who was shorn. The Indians were not so hostile to the freighters as to the ranchers. The trading trains were not often molested; whether the cause was that they were too well guarded, or that the Indians profited by the freighters. Possibly both causes combined ; but this was the experience of many fi^eighters in their dealings with the Indians. With the railroads all this industry has passed away,—even as the stage-coach in England. The adventures of the men who were engaged in it have become a tradition— a tradition whose distant limit is twenty years. T wenty years, however, is a large space in the history of a new country. Turning, now, to the political history of the State, we find that early in 1866 the legislature of the terri¬ tory devised a constitution which was duly ratified by the people ; and on July 4th in that year the legis¬ lature elected under the constitution met at Omaha. On July 28th Congress passed a bill for the admission of Nebraska as a State, but the President refused to sign it. In 1867, in January, Congress passed a similar bill, and again it was vetoed by the President, as was alleged because the bill contained provisions different from those in the Enabling Act ; because the proceedings, in forming the constitution, were alleged to be irregular; and because the President held the population of the territory not large enough to form a State. Congress this time, however, defeated the 198 NEBRASKA. President, passing the bill over his veto by 30 to 9 in the Senate, and 120 to 44 in the House. It was provided that the Act should not become of force, "except upon the fundamental condition that, within the State of Nebraska there shall be no denial of the elective franchise, or of any other right to any person by reason of race or colour, except Indians not taxed ; and upon the further fundamental condition that the legislature of the said State, by a solemn public act, shall declare the assent of the said State to the said fundamental" condition." This ratification was made by the legislature of Nebraska on February 20th, 1867, and the fact was proclaimed by the President of the United States on March 1st, 1867. Since that time Nebraska has been a state, being represented in Con¬ gress by two senators and one member of the House. Immediately upon the State becoming " sovereign," it was decided to re-locate the capital, anjd commissioners were appointed to fix the place. These commissioners in October, 1867, selected Lancaster, then a small ham¬ let in Lancaster County; and their choice was ratified by the legislature in the following winter, the new capital being named Lincoln, in honour of President Lincoln. By decision of the legislature, an election of delegates was held in May, 1871, to frame a new con¬ stitution for the State. This convention met on J une 5th, and continued its session until August 19th. A con¬ stitution was framed which was submitted to a popular vote on September 19th, and rejected by 7,986 votes against 8,627. It is considered, however, that a new constitution is needed, and a constituent convention to THE HISTORY OF NEBRASKA. 199 that end is to meet in the course of 1875. The new- provisions of organic law to be devised may tend largely to promote the general welfare, but there are no vital questions of policy to be solved, no subject or discor¬ dant races to guard against, no political passions to ap¬ pease, and no hungry or discontented masses to satisfy. Where the County Court house shall be built, and whether certain projected improvements shall be aided by local taxation, are two of the most exciting matters of local interest arising in the various parts of the State, and such questions as the permanent location of the capital, and whether the State government shall have the right to incur debts beyond the income of the year, are among the most exciting matters to engage the attention of constitutional conventions and State legislatures of Nebraska. CHAPTER XV. ON THE WEEPING WATEE AND THE NEMAHAS. Cass County.—Plattsmouth.—The railway.—^Building stone.— Timber.—Orchards.—Crops.—Local manufactures.—A prize crop.— Lands.—^Nemaha County.—The httle Nemaha.—^BrownviUe.—Some statistics.—Timber, stone, and coal.—Peru.—^Richabdson County.— Timber.—Stone.—Water-powers.—Assessments.—^Pawnee County.— Land.—Water.—Stone.—Assessments.—Johnson County. LATTSMOÜTH, the capital of Cass County, is on the main line of the Burlington and Missouri River Railway, about two miles south of the mouth of the Platte, and on. the Missouri River, which is not yet spanned here by a bridge ; an efficient steam ferry serving the present pur¬ poses of the railway and of the public. The bluffs are here upwards of a hundred feet high, and the town is rather picturesquely situated among the hills and slopes, with a considerable sprinkling of young woodland around it. The office of the United States Surveyor General for the State of Nebraska is here, and here are also general offices and machine shops of the railway com¬ pany. There are eight churches for as many religious denominations, one high and four ward schools, two ON THE WEEPING WATER AND THE NEMAHAS. 201 weekly papers, a considerable number of thriving busi¬ ness establishments, and a manufactory of agricultural implements for the State Grange of the Patrons of Husbandry, a very important society of farmers, to which I shall have further occasion to allude in another place. From Piattsmouth the railway fol¬ lows the south bank of the Platte to Omaha Junc¬ tion, where it is joined by the Omaha and South¬ western, a branch of this railway, whence it still follows the Platte to Ashland in the south-eastern extremity of Saunders County. For the chief part of this distance it is under a lofty bluff where nume¬ rous outcroppings of sand and limestone are seen; some of this is excellent as building stone, and Cass County affords enough to supply, if it could be con¬ veniently transported, the wants of a wide region of country. There are likewise abrupt bluffs along the Missouri, and generally on the river borders the surface is rough and the ravines deep and numerous, and frequently more or less wooded. There is, in fact, a considerable amount of native timber, and this being one of the oldest counties in the State, cultivated groves of a very thrifty and promisiug appearance are becom¬ ing numerous. There is good brick clay in unlimited quantities, and kaolin and good mineral pigments are said to be found in some localities. The interior of the country is rolling or gently undulating, and the soil almost everywhere is one of nearly inexhaustible fertility. Orchards have been very successful, and, as a consequence, the new-comers in the county are very generally planting fruit trees. A dozen or more 202 NEBRASKA. varieties of grapes have also been successfully tried, and the enthusiastic cultivators maintain that the cli¬ mate preserves them from mildew and rot. All of the cereals, potatoes, sweet potatoes, melons, tomatoes, and table vegetables yield abundantly. The people here, as elsewhere in Nebraska, are very much disposed to give such substantial aid to local manufactures as their means will allow ; there are quite a large number of water powers, and consequently good openings for flouring mills, tanneries, and factories of the various kinds which are dependent on the wants of an agricul¬ tural population. The State Board of Agriculture of Nebraska in 1873 gave the premium of |50 for the best yield of maize in the State to Mr. M. M. Nelson of this county, whose exhibit as duly attested was as follows :— The crop was raised on 35 acres of ground first broken up in 1871. Crops, Dr. Crops, Cr. Ploughing at $1*25 per acre, $43*75 Yield, 3202i bushels or 91i Plauting ,, 0*45 „ 15*75 bushels per acre. Cultivating ,, 1*80 „ 63*00 Weight, 63 lbs. per bushel ; Harvesting ,, 1*25 „ 43*75 cost per bushel, about 5 cents. Total . . 4*75 166*25 The value of the land is not given. The variety of maize is known as " Mahogany." The county is well watered. The Weeping Water is the principal stream; it drains about one-third of the area, while numerous minor creeks flow into the Platte and the Missouri to the north of it. There are 415,296 acres of arable land, of which ON THE WEEPING WATER AND THE NEMAHAS. 203 about 150,000 are in cultivated farms. The Burling¬ ton and Missouri Kiver Kailway Company has many thousand acres of land for sale in the western part of the county, and there are large aggregate amounts of wild land held in lots of 160 acres and upwards by private persons on terms of sale similar to those already mentioned in respect of the counties of Douglas and Sarpy. I reserve Otoe County, which is next south of Cass, for a more lengthened description in a separate chapter. Nemaha County, south of Otoe, has the same species of broken land on the Missouri as is to be found in the other river counties. Its principal stream is the Little Nemaha, which runs south-eastwardly through the centre of the county, and after furnishing water- power for five flouring mills, empties into the Missouri near Aspinwall, a thriving, weU-situated little market town. Brownville, the county seat and principal town, is on the Missouri River, in a picturesque location among the hills. There are excellent schools and five churches. Half-a-dozen railroads, projected or com¬ menced, will centre in or pass through Brownville if and when they are, ever built. It is certain to have railroad facilities at a date not far distant, but for the present its only shipping facilities are either on the Missouri or across it. The people are anxious to establish such manufactures on a moderate scale as are adapted to the wants of a community which is mainly agricultural. Near this town are the "Furnas Nur¬ series," owned by ex-Governor R. W. Furnas and 204 NEBRASKA. Sons, long established and now somewhat noted in the State. This being one of the old counties of Nebraska, is already noted for its fruit, which is good, cheap, and abundant. Last year good sound peaches were sold in BrownviUe for 25 cents or lid. per bushel. In 1874 there were 247,348 acres of land assessed for taxes in the county, the valuation being at an average of $5-87 per acre ; 4,538 horses at $47*45 ; 366 mules and asses at $54; 11,850 neat cattle at $13*34 ; 1,271 sheep at $1*50; 17,765 swine at $2*16, and the total assessed valuation was $2,759,981, but the real value is much greater, and is difficult to estimate with any approach to precision in a new State like Nebraska. Wild land, for instance, is reaUy held at from $6 to $10 per acre, and improved farms from $20 to $60, while by the assessment the average of the whole is under $6. About 30,000 acres are under cultivation. The crops raised in the county are maize, winter and spring wheat, oats, winter rye, barley, buckwheat, sweet and Irish potatoes, clover, timothy, Hun¬ garian and prairie grasses, sorghum, broomcorn, flax, and tobacco. The average yield of each per acre is winter wheat, 10 bushels; spring wheat, 14; corn, 40; oats, 45; rye, 15; barley, 45; buckwheat, 38; Irish potatoes, 150; clover and timothy, IJ tons per acre; Hungarian, 2 tons. The rainfall is about 33 inches. There is a considerable amount of native timber, and many groves have been planted, but as yet scarcely to a sufficient extent. Good building lime and sandstone are quarried, and there are some tantalizing seams of coal, but none has yet been found of a decidedly pro- ON THE WEEPING WATER AND THE NEMAHAS. 205 fitable character. Peru, a place of some 600 to 800 inhabitants, is prettily situated in the northern part of the county and is the seat of an important institution, the State Normal or Training School for Teachers. Richardson County is south of Nemaha, with the Missouri River on the east ; it has a railroad traversing it from north-east to south-west, and another almost upon its southern boundary in Kansas, and its market facilities are therefore very fair. The great thickness of the lacustrine deposit, and the numerous layers of sand and limestone through which the rivers and brooks have cut their deep channels, give this county more than the average ruggedness, while it also has much more than the average of native timber. Good sandstone and limestone are plentiful, but generally thoroughly covered with the thick lacustrine, except¬ ing in the steep bluffs of the rivers, and the soil is therefore almost all of it entirely free from stones and easily tilled ; it is also extremely fertile. On the Great Nemaha River are eight flouring-mills, and three saw-mills and two flouring-mills on the Muddy, while it is said that there are large num¬ bers of good water-powers still unoccupied. The people are disposed to offer special inducements for the starting of such home manufactures as are most adapted to their requirements. There were in 1874, 317,561 acres of land assessed for taxes at an average of |5*27 per acre; 6,963 horses at $40*44 ; 398 mules and asses at $48*10; 17,967 neat cattle at $11*12; 2,002 sheep at $1*00; 26,717 swine at $1*55; and the total assessed valuation of the county was 206 NEBRASKA. $3,114,724. The actual prices of land are about the same as in Nemaha County, which this very greatly resembles. Pawnee County is west of Eichardson, with which it is equally fertile, and to the eye it seems even more desirable for agricultural purposes. Its surface is more rolling or undulating, with more gentle slopes ; it is well watered by the Nemahas and their tributaries, and there are water-powers on the prin¬ cipal streams. Building stone is very abundant along the streams and in the hill-sides ; and in this county is the eastern outcropping of a very fine, soft, tenacious, cream-coloured limestone, which will repay transporta¬ tion for very considerable distances if facilities there¬ for should ever become abundant. In the alluvial formations water is reached near the water level of the streams, and on the upland by penetrating the basis rocks to the clay beds which act as reservoirs, and yield an abundant supply of excellent water generally at a moderate depth. When Professor Hayden, of the United States Geological Survey, visited the county in 1867, the land was already entirely in the hands of actual settlers or of speculators. There were 244,896 acres assessed in 1874 at an average of $3*88 per acre. There were 2,733 horses, assessed value $40-98 each; 110 mules and asses, at $49*73; 6,304 neat cattle, at $14*82; 1,206 sheep, at $0*98; 6,781 swine, at $1*71; and the total valuation of the county was $1,383,261. Johnson County, north of Pawnee and west of Ne¬ maha, is chiefly watered by the Great Nemaha Eiver, which running diagonally through its centre affords ON THE WEEPING WATER AND THE NEMAHAS. 207 several water-powers, three of which are already occu¬ pied by flouring mills. The surface is undulating, and the soil very fertile. Clays and sand for building purposes are suflâciently abundant, but good stone or stone of any quality is less often found. On the high divides on either side of the Nemaha and its branches, there is every evidence of great fertility, but as compared with its neighbours, Kichardson, Nemaha, Pawnee, and Otoe, there are much wider expanses without living water and without natural timber. Coal has been found, as in the adjoining counties, and is mined to some extent, but the beds yet discovered have raised high expectations, without producing very prcrfitable results. Tecumseh, the capital, is a thriving little market town near the centre of the county on the Atchinson and Nebraska Railway, which is the artery of commerce for the county. CHAPTER XVL OTOE COUNTY. By Dr. Jokn" H. Blue. The name,—Gold fever.—Old forts.—Nebraska City.—Religious and educational advantages.—^Plough factories.—Flouring mills.—Other in¬ dustries.—Railroads.—Agriculture.—Land.—Settlers with moderate means.—Shallenherger.—Enyart.—Improved' farms.—Surface and soil. —Springs and streams.—Coal.—Timber.—^Fruits.—Horticultural prizes. —A big apple.—^Prominent horticulturists.—^Artificial groves.—^Rain¬ fall.—The river floods.—Timber belts.—Farmers in Otoe.—Herd law.— Easy cultivation.—The natural meadows.—Meat.—Climate.—Bayard Taylor. [Dr. Blue is an experienced journalist, who has long resided in this county, and I can judge the substantial accuracy of his facts from two visits of my own to the county, from my acquaintance with people therein, and from many independent circumstances, as well as from my knowledge of this gentleman's trustworthy character. Many of the facts presented by Dr. Blue will apply with almost equal force to the other southern counties on the Missouri, as the reader will easily perceive ; and although there is some repetition of facts which I have personally given elsewhere, I con¬ sider that in this case, as in others, I have derived very material help from the literary assistance that I have been able to obtain.—^E. A. C.] HIS part of the State deserves a separate chapter, because it is the mother of coun¬ ties on the south side of the Platte River, and because it contains Nebraska City, which is only second in importance and in natural endowments to Omaha, the largest town in Nebraska. PART OF NEBRASKA CITY FROM THE UPLAND. OTOE COUNTY. 209 The county is named after the Otoe Indians, who, in the beginning of the century, held all the surround¬ ing territory as the " happy hunting ground" on which the buflfalo, the elk, the deer, and the antelope pas¬ tured, and were the wild herds of the wild men who claimed them as their natural inheritance; and these wild animals multiplied and lived here, summer and winter, on the bounties of Providence, and increased as the Indians did, till finally the white race, in the tidal wave of civilization, crossed the Missouri River west ward, and extinguished the Indian title, when the Otoes sank into insignificance on a small reservation, and their wild herds were wantonly slaughtered, or driven further towards the setting sun. When the gold excitement broke out in California, this became the natural route for the overland adven¬ turers ; and the Government, which always aids enter¬ prise and protects its citizens, moved a company of soldiers to this point, and established old Fort Kear¬ ney. As soon as the Indian title was purchased, the Government forces were transferred two hundred miles west on the Platte River ; and a town was laid off here in 1854, and named Nebraska City. It is a remarkable fact that the Government has always selected judiciously the gateways to immigra¬ tion ; and that the old fort sites have generally grown into important towns, as Detroit, Chicago, St. Louis, Rock Island, Omaha, and Nebraska City; and where the drum of the camp was beaten, there commerce and civilization raise great and prosperous cities; which is perhaps only the instinct of our army engineers p 210 NEBRASKA. following the instinctive engineering of the Indians and the buffaloes into the richest fastnesses of an unexplored continent. Nebraska City is only twenty years old, but it has a population of seven or eight thousand mhabitant», and all the civilization and solidity of the older towns. There are three large brick school-houses—one of them costing more than $30,000—^where all children are taught free alike the elements of a thorough education, and those who choose are carried into the higher branches, and even prepared for the university, without a cent of expense to the parents ; for the State has been granted a double portion—one eighteenth part of the public domain—for free schools, and these lands are only sold by the State when they become valuable, and the interest set aside for ever for public instruction. Besides these common schools, Nebraska City has an admirably discipliaed college for young men under the charge of the Episcopal church, with the Rev. Dr. MacNamara as president ; and two female seminaries—all permanent bricked edifices—one under the management of the Episcopal church, and the other under the control of the Benedictine Sisters, where young ladies have always been as safe as at home, and thoroughly educated. In religious matters the immigrant has a pretty wide choice, for there are thirteen church buildings, and as many denominations moving on harmoniously together. Aside from an abundance of stores and mechanical shops, Nebraska City sees the importance of manu- OTOE COUNTY. 211 facturing indispensable articles, so as to save tbe money at home and foster industrial families. So we have two large plough factories—one of them substan¬ tially built of brick at a cost of some $20,000. Both are run by steam power; and they turned out last year between 4,000 and 5,000 of the best ploughs known in the market. There is also a steam flouring mill that grinds 100,000 bushels of wheat a year; the flour is of the finest quality, and commands the highest price in the New York market, where much of it goes. The owners commenced here some six years ago with modest means, and have steadily progressed till their estabhshment is filled with the most perfect machinery, and is worth some $25,000, all paid for out of their legitimate earnings. The flour which is designed for home and western consumption is all put up in hundred-pound sacks, but that which goes east is packed in barrels that they manufacture in an adjoin¬ ing cooper-shop. Half a dozen more steam flouring mills could do equally as well, for this establishment cannot grind more than a tenth part of the wheat crop grown in Otoe County There are also two iron foundries in Nebraska City for making machine castings ; and a soap factory, which has been growing into importance year after year, now competing with the best in the Missouri Valley. We may also reckon among the profitable industries two carriage factories and two breweries, which employ a number of hands. The judicious use of capital in manufacturing has always been found the surest way to wealth, in all the 212 NEBRASKA. flourishing towns of the West ; and there is little danger of over-competition where the country is filling up so fast, and requiring so many articles of utility ; and the manufacture of starch from our abundant com and potato fields, of woollen goods from our healthy sheep pastures, of paper from our straw piles and unemployed flax fibre ; of linseed oil from fields that yield twenty-five bushels of flax seed to the acre, of leather where we have so many hides and need so many shoes and sets of harness, and of a dozen other leading industries, only await men of means and expe¬ rience to come among us. Capital should flow West, where the channels are free and unobstructed, and where the profits most rapidly accumulate. We have two railroads leading to Nebraska City, on the east side of the Missouri Kiver,—one the Burlington and Missouri River, coming from Chicago, and the other the Kansas City, St. Joe and Council Bluffs, com¬ ing from St. Louis. And on the west side of the river the Midland Pacific runs through the centre of Otoe County westward to Lincoln, the capital of the State, and to Seward in the interior, and is destined at an early day to join with the Union Pacific on the way to California. It is now in connection with two other railroads at Lincoln ; and is running a southern con¬ tinuation from Nebraska City viâ Brownville, down to the Hannibal and St. Joe Bridge, over the Missouri River, which will, it is thought, necessitate the compet¬ ing line to Chicago—the Burlington and Missouri River —to build a bridge at Nebraska City, and extend another line south-west, hence to Beatrice, so as to hold OTOE COUNTY. 213 the trade of the South Platte country. Along the Midland Pacific in Otoe County brisk littíe towns are springing up, such as Syracuse and Palmyra. But the essential interest of Otoe County is agricul¬ tural; and though there is a population of some seven thousand in the county outside of Nebraska City, yet not more than a fourth part is improved,—but it awaits more hands and more capital to develop the soil. Otoe County is 18 miles wide by 36 miles long, running west from the Missouri Kiver ; and unimproved farms can be purchased at from eight to ten dollars an acre, now mostly held by speculators who bought them to sell again. * These lands have been overlooked by immigrants, simply because the railroads have more loudly adver¬ tised their wild lands away off in the interior of the State ; and persons go there, a hundred or two miles westward, and pay the same price that they would pay for these lands, surrounded by all the comforts of thriving neighbours and advanced civilization. The West needs more men of moderate means and ready resources. The policy heretofore in Nebraska has been to invite the poor of all nations to our rich domain with the popular song,— " Uncle Sam is rich enough To give us all a farm ; " and in this way people who would never make any¬ thing at home have been sent here as to a new El Dorado, without the capacity or the inclination to work, and without the means of opening farms when they have acquired them as homesteads. 214 NEBRASKA. Still there are many notable examples of men coming here poor, and growing rich by persevering industry. As an instance, Joseph Shallenberger, who was acci¬ dentally killed two years ago by a falling log, worked his way to Otoe County some years after it began to settle, and took a homestead some miles from this city, without a dollar. He raised corn and cattle and hogs, and established a reputation in his neighbourhood as one of our honest and useful citizens ; and though his end was untimely, his estate is now probated, after all en¬ cumbrances are lifted, at |40,000. Hon. Logan Enyart also came here out of the Con¬ federate service in 1865, without a doUar,—a plain Mis¬ souri farmer, who had staked his all on the "lost cause." But he went to work on the bold prairie with a cheer¬ ful heart and a strong hand ; and he now owns a square mile of choice land seven miles from Nebraska City, aU surrounded by an Osage orange hedge fence, and the large farm in the highest state of improvement, well stocked with cattle and agricultural machinery, and all paid for; and the loyal men of Otoe County have twice in succession elected him as their representa¬ tive in the Legislature. But immigrants who do not want to begin a new place, and have moderate means—say from $5,000 to $10,000—can always find pioneer men among us—often several adjoiuing farmers—^who want to sell out and move further West; and these partially improved farms can often be bought at very nearly the price of raw lands, thus affording the farmer the best return for the money. OTOE COUNTY. 215 The surface of Otoe County is beautifully undu¬ lating, and thes oU that of an ancient lake bed, so that the deep porous deposit is seldom too wet or too dry for agricultural purposes. And all the land is almost equally good in quality if not always equally well situated. Never-failing springs and streams of water are pretty equally distributed ; and wells of inexhaus¬ tible supply can be dug or bored at a depth of from forty to sixty feet, and run continually by the wind¬ mills which are now becoming very common on all the large farms. Coal is sold here by the car load at $6 a ton as it comes from the adjoining States of Iowa, Missouri, and Kansas; and there are many indications of coal at various places in Otoe County; but as yet Nebraska is too new to have thorough geological surveys to demonstrate its mineral resources. Timber grows on such a soil with .surprising vigour ; and we have measured cottonwood trees twelve years old, that gave a girth of more than five feet in circum¬ ference at the stump, and were forty or fifty feet in height. Walnut, maple, honey locust, hickory, ash, and oak, grow nearly as fast ; and the American, Austrian, and Scotch pines, and native cedars flourish wherever they are properly planted. But the great boast of Otoe County is its fruits— apples, peaches, plums, pears, and grapes, as well as all the minor fruits. Tins county contributed most of the stock which gave the "Nebraska State Horticultural Society " the first premium in 1871 in the American Pomological Society at Richmond, Virginia, where 216 NEBRASKA. twenty-six states contended for the prize; and again in Boston, Mass., in 1873 for the best State collection of apples. And Hon. J. H. Masters, of Nebraska City, took the premium again last year at Philadelphia. When Major Pearman exhibited the year previously some Otoe County apples at the St. Joe, Mass., fair, he was humorously accused of varnishing them, so polished and plump was the appearance ; and the growth of all vegetable productions in this region of country shows the highest health and vigour. And in this connection, it may be well to record in the interest of fruit culture, that the largest apple ever exhibited in the United States and probably in the world, was grown by Perry and Walker in the neigh¬ bourhood of Nebraska City, and shown at our State fair some years ago. This apple weighed twenty-nine and a half ounces; and the then governor, David Butler, took it to the agricultural department in Washington City, and the commissioner of the department informed him that it was the largest by three ounces, of any apple which had ever been forwarded there. The soil and climate of Nebraska develop both vegetable and animal life in the greatest perfection ; and it is probable that the blujff formation along the Missouri River counties will always excel in fruits. The choice pro¬ ductions of the temperate zone luxuriate here in a perfect natural drainage and a wonderful soil. One other like it is well known to agriculturists, and that is the celebrated loess formation of the River Rhine which supplies Europe with the choicest fruits and wines. Hon. J. Sterling Morton has an orchard of forty acres. OTOE COUNTY. 217 and Chief Justice Mason the largest orchard in the State, some 12,000 fruit trees, and 3,000 evergreens. Among the other famous fruit raisers around Nebraska City may be mentioned Joseph Sand, A. Donahoo, W. J. Armstrong, Harmon, and Mrs. Gilmore. The Mnenonites of Russia who lately immigrated to this State were very solicitous to learn whether tree- culture was a success on our prairies, both because they appreciated the value of timber, and because, as great wheat raisers in the Crimea, whence they came, they had found that wheat would not thrive on a soil uncon¬ genial to forest trees. Persons who visit this part of Nebraska in the green of the year must admire the artificial groves that gladden the eye on the far-oif prairie eminences, as evidence of human habitation and exuberant soil; and there is great attention paid by most of our new settlers to planting trees enough for their immediate comfort, and the prospective use of the farms. But nowhere have the people been suiSâciently indoctrinated into the real requirements of political economy which must shape the future prosperity of the great West. Observations made for the last ten years at Fort Kearney, on the Platte River, nearly two hundred miles to the west of us, show a rainfall of twenty-five inches annually, the greater part of which is in the spring and summer months, when it is most needed for the growing crops—a larger rainfall than prevails in the great agricultural region of western New York, about Rochester, in the same season of the year; and the Smithsonian rain-gauge in this neighbourhood gives 218 NEBRASKA, as equally favourable a report. But there is so little ploughed land in the state that perhaps eight-tenths of this water runs off the surface immediately, as is evi¬ denced by the May and June rise in the Platte, the Blue, the Republican, and other streams which swell the Missouri River in the summer months. This Mis¬ souri flood was formerly thought to be the melted snow in the mountains, but is now known to be the abundant rains from the prairie water-sheds. And then much of the remaining moisture which would per¬ meate the close, unbroken surface in time, is carried off by the unobstructed western and southern winds, to fall on the upper Missouri and other distant lands. Good calculators estimate that one-sixth of every farm should be grown to timber; and yet the United States statistics show only one-twentieth part of Kansas and Nebraska as growing up in forest. Trees essen¬ tially modify the climate by breaking the force of the winds and staying the moisture of the surface, so that their shade in summer and their shield in winter are instinctively sought both by men and animals. Can any sensible person beheve that the hot winds of last summer, which did more to blast the harvest than either drought or grasshoppers, could have blown all the way from Kansas through green-timber belts and the cool shade of artificial forests ? The older river counties answer the question ; for we have had good crops in proportion to the tree protection. And our most successful fruit growers in Otoe County find it more necessary to plant timber belts on the south than on the north side of the orchards ; nor have they any OTOE COUNTY. 219 doubt that when the due proportion of timber is once standing guard over the homesteads of Nebraska, they wiU find the summer tempered like the planted portion of France; and the sheep and cattle will eat green grass all winter in the woods and pastures. Almost every farmer in Otoe County, as his means permit, is surrounding his premises with Osage orange or honey-locust hedges, both of which thrive well in this latitude ; and there are hundreds of miles now newly hedged, and in a few more years the older por¬ tion of the State will all present live fences and green lanes to the admiring eye,—rivalling " merrie England " and its buckthorn hedges. And the buckthorn thrives remarkably well in Nebraska. Our herd law is an immense saving of capital, to be employed in useful investments, for the fence system of the older states is a ruinous expenditure for nothing. An excellent authority calculates that the first cost of the fences in New York is |141,000,000 ; and another estimated the fence tax of Pennsylvania at $10,000,000 a year. At these rates the fences of the United States cost more than $1,200,000,000 ; and the annual repairs and renewals every ten years may be put down at 20 per cent, a year, or $240,000,000—a fence tax which is several times as great as all the local and govern¬ mental taxes of which the people complain—and all of which we ignore in Nebraska. We have learned a better way, and adopted the system of central Europe, combining common sense, cheapness, taste, equal rights, and good husbandry. On the virgin prairie the first sod is broken up with 220 NEBRASKA. a two-horse team, and all the other operations are pro- portionably economical and easy. To persons who have been used to the stones and hard pan, and roots and worm fences of other States, the farming " out of doors" in Nebraska—that is, without any enclosures—is as light and happy work, comparatively, as it is for play- children to make dirt-pies. It costs very little in pro¬ portion, to improve a new farm in this way ; and the thousands of dollars spent in some States in fencing against neighbours' stock, are here spent in agricultural machinery, and in bringing the place to perfection in a few years. But the great inherent wealth of the State is the broad natural meadow, on which the wild game revelled till the white immigrants drove them away. These prairie pastures rival the steppes of Asia, and the pampas of South America, in their adaptation to the fattening of cattle, and even without corn or barns, those homesteaders who have depended on stock raising, are but little affected, for the grass is good and the supply of hay not much diminished ; and the cattle often winter like the wild animals all winter long, on these upland plains where little or no snow falls. The demand for meat is steadily increasing in the east as population increases in the cities and manufacturing districts ; and the largest part of the extra supply must come from the prairies between the Missouri River and the Rocky Mountain slope. Texas can only furnish a limited supply of " broad horns" or native cattle, of which Otoe County fattens a large number annually. But they are never equal in market value to the heavy OTOE COUNTY. 221 blooded cattle raised on our northern plains. Our farmers realize more money by raising stock and manufacturing their grain into beef and pork than in any other way. The climate of Otoe County may be more change¬ able than pent-up mountain regions ; but the average temperature is several degrees warmer here in the winter months than in New York. The isothermal line runs 300 miles further north, carrying the mild southern current that much further up, on the west side of the Missouri River, than at Chicago ; and the annual temperature here is about that of Virginia and Mary¬ land. Our summers are some two months longer be¬ tween frosts than in Connecticut and Massachusetts. It may be difficult for eastern people to realize that our proximity to the Rocky Mountains, and the absence of great water basins, like the northern lakes, give us ten degrees of heat, yet such is the fact. This part of the country is very healthy ; and chills and fever and other miasmatic diseases are almost en¬ tirely unknown, owing to the well-drained and airy prairies. Persons coming here with liver complaints, asthma, and dyspepsia, and most other chronic mala¬ dies, generally recover their health without any other medicine than the pure elements, air, water, and food. And finally, we cannot better end this chapter than by quoting the corroborating testimony of an eminent and impartial traveller. Bayard Taylor, who is known and admired both in the Old and in the New World. On entering this South Platte region, he pronounced it " a warm counterpart of the French lowlands, lacking 222 NEBRASKA^ only the grace given by centuries of human habitation," and he adds further along, " The country is one of the most beautiful I ever looked upon, but nature has given the smoothness and finish which elsewhere come from long cultivation." CHAPTER XVII. UP THE SALT EIVEE. Lancaster County.—Lincoln.—^Emigrant Home.—Capital,—Insane Asylum. — Penitentiary. — University. — Agricultural College, — Salt springs.—^Eailway land.—Surface.—Soil.—Lacustrine deposit. —Analysis of five samples.—Ditto surface soils on lacustrine.—Saeinb County.— Mr. Hatclifie.—Demand for labourers.—Want of means.—Moderate capital.—^Borrowing.—Lands.—The delights of the imagination.—An illustration, fig. 44. FIRST visited Lincoln, in Lancaster County, the capital of Nebraska, when it was a six-year-old, and a decidedly nice, neat-looking town I found it. It boasts of a population of about 7,000, and it bas a number of edifices witb some pretensions to architec¬ tural beauty. Three railroads have stations here ; and one, the Burlington and Missouri (in popular parlance the " B. and M."), has a building called " The Emi¬ grants' Home," where rooms and conveniences for cooking, washing, &c., are supplied free of charge for such limited time as the circumstances will permit, while the occupants are looking for homes and employ- 224 NEBRASKA ment. The people who use this building are of course expected to rough it; for no railway company, how¬ ever opulent, would find it politic or profitable to pro¬ vide luxurious quarters under such circumstances. The Capitol building is a laboured and not altogether unsuccessful attempt, by an English architect, to pro¬ duce in enduring stone something decidedly more ugly than the National Gallery in Trafalgar-square. The Insane Asylum is a fine large stone building in the Italian style. It is intended, as the public purse can afford, and as the public exigencies require them, to add other structures that will harmonize with this. The State Penitentiary looked to me like a rather " big job," or as if the authorities were providing a fine place for repentance for a very considerable proportion of the future denizens of the State. But injudicious invest¬ ments like this are sure to occur in every new common¬ wealth, and I do not suppose that Nebraska has any more than her share of them. The State University, with which is connected or affiliated an agricultural college, is a roomy brick structure, capable of afford¬ ing educational facilities to a far larger number of students than there are as yet prepared to receive in¬ struction within its walls. The Agricultural College, like those of other States, is largely endowed by the United States Government ; and it is to be hoped that the institution will be conducted in a manner effec¬ tually to benefit the predominant industry of Nebraska. Two or three miles fi'om Lincoln there are a number of salt springs, producing an extensive marsh, ineffec¬ tually drained into the Platte by Salt Creek. A very UP THE SALT RIVER. 225 considerable amount of salt is manufactured here by solar evaporation. Larger and more perfect works, utilizing all of the water, and perhaps tapping the sub¬ terraneous supply by means of an artesian well, would, if judiciously handled, be both very profitable and of great public advantage. There is, I believe, no other known source of supply available within 300 miles, and salt is an article in the cost of which transportation must necessarily be a very important element. The Burlington and Missouri River Railway Com¬ pany still have for sale many thousand acres of fine land in this county at prices ranging from |4 to $20 per acre—the latter price being for very superior lands extremely well located ; and the terms generally ten years' credit at six per cent, interest, with an allowance, by way of discount, to the actual settler who occupies his land and brings a certain proportion under cultiva¬ tion within a reasonable time. There is also much land for sale that is in the hands of private persons, the prices being in general regulated by those of the rail¬ road lands adjoining. This county of Lancaster consists chiefly of very pleasing gentle slopes and undulations of upland, with a soil deep, rich, and easily cultivated. Underlying the lacustrine deposit is drift, consisting chiefly of coarse sand and gravel. This comes near the surface a little west of Lincoln, indicating that at one time this was at or near the shore of the great Missouri lake. At the same time much of the country north, west, and south was also submerged; for over nearly all of Nebraska Q 226 NEBRASKA. we find this peculiar deposit, the sediment of a great lake or series of lakes fed by numerous rapid and muddy streams. In some places the deposit is up¬ wards of 200 feet thick ; and wherever found, whether the specimens are taken from the top, bottom, or middle of the stratum, they are almost exactly alike in appearance, and when analyzed they are found to be unadulterated Missouri mud, practically identical in composition. Over 80 per cent, of the deposit is silica, so finely comminuted that it can only be detecte4 under the microscope. About 10 per cent, is made up of carbonates and phosphates of lime, and there is a small quantity of iron and alumina. The car¬ bonates and phosphates of hme are so abundant that they frequently spontaneously crystallize, and lumps of all sizes up to that of a walnut can be seen in river banks, in excavations, and in turning up the soil. For much information on this interesting and important matter I am indebted to Mr. Samuel Aughey, Professor of Geology and Chemistry in the State University, a gentleman of much unassuming ability, with whom I had the pleasure of travelling in several counties. I append a table comprising Professor Aughey's analyses—(1) of Missouri mud deposited at a high stage of the water, (2) lacustrine deposit from Dakota County, (3) ditto from Douglas County, (4) ditto from Nebraská City, and (5) ditto from Brownvüle, Nemaha County. For several other valuable analyses of Nebraskan soils, see Professor Aughey's article on the Surface Geology of the State, pages 118 and 129. UP THE SALT RIVEB. 227 Lacüstrine Deposit. Analysis. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Missouri Dakota Douglas Nebraska Nemaba mud. Co. Co. City. Co. Insoluble (siliceous) matter 82-01 82-10 82-08 82-11 82-09 Ferric oxide .... 3-10 3-85 3-86 3-85 3-84 Alumina 1-90 -75 -75 ■76 -77 Carbonate of lime 7-01 6-09 6-07 6-06 6-08 Phosphate of lime . 3-01 3-56 3-58 3-60 3-61 Carbonate of magnesium . 1-10 1-30 1-29 1-31 1-31 Organic matter 1-20 1-07 1-06 1-05 1-08 Moisture ..... 1-08 1-09 1-07 1-07 Loss in analysis •67 -20 -22 -19 , -15 100-00 100-00 100-00 100-00 100-00 The silica is so very finely comminuted as to be most commonly taken for clay. People who live on this de¬ posit assert that wherever it reacnes the surface, whether thrown from a cellar or the depths of a well, it is, without the addition of vegetable mould, at once capable of bearing a good crop of wheat. I append analyses of surface soil on the lacustrine. The first is from near Lincoln ; the second from near Omaha ; the third fi'om Beatrice, Gage County; the fourth from Plattsmouth, Cass County. Surface Soil. Analysis. No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. No. 4. Insoluble (siliceous) matter Ferric oxide ...... Alumina Carbonate of lime Phosphate of lime Carbonate of magnesium .... Vitriols Sulphate of sodium Organic matter Loss in analysis 63-07 2-79 7-06 7-09 -75 1-97 -85 1-00 14-01 1-41 62-00 2-10 10-03 8-01 -77 1-01 -80 -00 14-50 •78 64-07 2-19 6-90 7-99 -70 1-79 •79 -00 14-38 1-20 62-11 2-90 8-01 8-11 1-08 ■17 -87 -00 14-57 1-18 100-00 100-00 100-00 100-00 These soils have great power of under-drainage, and 228 NEBRASKA. yet they are in no danger of leaching. The moisture is retained in the subsoil, to be given out by capillary attraction in very considerable quantities in time of drought, and thus sustain the verdure of plant life. The fibrous roots of grasses and small plants will pene¬ trate this friable porous formation to a great depth (I have distinctly traced grass roots to a depth of 5 feet in a newly-dug pit without coming to the ends of the fibres), and yet there is in it a peculiar power of resis¬ tance against time and the elements. Large quantities of excellent building stone have been found in the south-eastern part of the county. Saline County is the next south-westward of Lan¬ caster. Its principal town—Crete—is a railway junc¬ tion, and when I first saw it, was a thrmng infant of three years. Its soil is very rich and fertile, consist¬ ing as far as .my observation goes of alluvial timber- fringed bottoms and gently undulating lacustrine up¬ lands similar to those of Lancaster County. I have met many English people in Nebraska. I drove out as usual in the neighbourhood of Crete to prosecute my inquiries and to see the country, and among others I visited Mr. Elvin Hatcliffe, late an agricultural labourer, and for nineteen years employed as such by Mr. William Richardson, of Ashby Puerorum, near Horncastle. He came here in June, 1871, with a wife and seven children, of whom two were boys, twelve or thirteen and nineteen respectively. He had about £10 when he came. Although he availed himself of the privileges of the emigrant home, his money neces¬ sarily went very rapidly. His wife helped to eke out UP THE SALT RIVER. 229 their resources by taking in washing. Mr. Hatcliffe soon obtained work on the raüroad near Lincoln at .75 per day (about 6s.), and. afterwards at Crete for '50. He had constant work through the winter. His eldest son also found employment, and was able to do a man's work. Hatcliife attracted the notice of Colonel Doane, superintendent of the railway, who then em¬ ployed him as a working farm-bailiff, giving him $46 per month, a house to live in, and some privileges, such as milk, potatoes, and fuel, and he had held this situation to the time of my visit. When I saw him he was ploughing for wheat a field of 160 acres, which had been broken from the raw prairie the previous season, at an expense of |2*50 per acre. This, with 160 acres more yet unbroken, was purchased on ten years' time from the railway company by Mr. Hatcliffe, at $14 per acre, all superior land and well situated. So far the accounts figure up as follows :— First payment on 320 acres of land at $14 per acre (interest only) at 6 per cent, in advance ..... $268"80 Breaking 160 acres at $2'50 . . . . . , 400 00 1 mare, 1 cow and calf, 4 pigs, about ..... 175*00 Household furniture, &c., about ..... 100*00 Total $943*80 or about £175. Of this the eldest son (most unfortu¬ nately drowned last summer) paid for the mare and half of the advance on the land. With health and fair average crops, Mr. H. will be able to support his family, to pay for his land within the stipulated time, to hedge and otherwise properly improve it, and to accumulate 230 NEBRASKA. and provide suitable accommodation for horses and cattle in due proportion to his acreage. He is there¬ fore on the road to a competence, and he may fairly expect to attain it within a reasonable time. But his is by no means an average case ; and I could not advise any man with a family to leave steady employment at reasonable English wages and to come here without money or friends or guaranteed employment. If employ¬ ment be first obtained there is likely to be no difficulty, but otherwise without money in hand there is danger of great privation, or of being compelled to subsist for a considerable time on the public or private charity of strangers. A very large proportion of the people of all new states like Nebraska are new beginners with very limited means, and the demand for labourers at daily, weekly, or monthly wages is limited by the state of the finances. These circumstances, however, make the new State so much the better for the man who comes with ade¬ quate capital. Not one farmer in thirty, probably not one in sixty, has sufficient capital in the first five years of his residence in Nebraska to buy horses, cattle, and implements, in due proportion to the size of his farm. He imperfectly cultivates a portion of it, and the re¬ mainder continues to be covered with the wüd grasses which necessarily waste away unconsumed. Yet such men succeed in due time ; they succeed, although the want of adequate capital makes a far larger percentage of difference than it does in England. Whether an English farmer sells his wheat in autumn or holds it till spring, the difference in price will be but a moderate UP THE SALT RIVEK. 231 percentage; but in a new country, its price in the spring is often likely to be 30, 40, or 50 per cent, more than in the autumn. A wealthy English farmer settled in Nebraska is in the habit of loaning his spare cash to such of his neighbours as can give good interest and ample security. The fortunate possessor of a farm without cost, a " homesteader," called upon him for money with which to build a granary. The price of wheat was 70c. per bushel, and he hoped, by holding it tni spring, to get a dollar, or 43 per cent, more ; but he could not hold it without a granary, and to get one he must sell his wheat and render the granary un¬ necessary for that season. Had our friend been able to accommodate him, even at a high rate of interest, there was a fair probability that the difference in the price of the one crop would have paid the debt, while the granary would have remained for use for many years. But the homestead settler can rarely give ade¬ quate security for substantial assistance, and the con¬ sequence is that, having an inadequate capital to begin with, a man must labour under very serious disadvan¬ tages for the five years necessary to perfect his title to the land, and render him a person of some little sub¬ stance. He will then, when no longer in such absolute need of it, be able to obtain a reasonable amount of credit. Railway and private lands, of which there is a very large amount for sale in this county, range at nearly or about the same prices as in Lancaster. There is a touch of Spanish magniloquence in the Western character with, as must be admitted, something more 232 NEBRASKA. than a Spaniard's reasons for flights of the imagination. Some of the towns that I have mentioned were pro¬ bably cities in the vocabularies, as they certainly were in the lively fancies of their founders, before the first sod was turned or they were even staked out." Such incongruities between names and present facts strike the stranger everjrwhere. There is, for instance, nothing so low as an inn or a tavern in all Nebraska. I have heard of one or two "Boarding houses," kept by widows, and I presume that there are many more, but the humblest houses of entertainment for weary travel¬ lers that I have seen were always dignified with the name of " Hotel." On one of my trips over the Bur¬ lington and Missouri River Railroad the engine was stopped to slake its thirst at one of those water-tanks which the useful wind bountifully supplies with water on all the railways of the far West. It was in Saline County on the high prairie, where the eye could scarcely detect in all the expanse before it the slightest varia¬ tion from the perfect level of a placid sea. The future great city of this plain bore the unassuming and plea¬ sant name of Friend ville, suggestive of cosy comfort in quiet drab coal-scuttle bonnets and broad-brimmed hats. There were four or five cottage-like framed build¬ ings erected, and there appeared no reason to doubt that the place would in due time justify its compara¬ tively unassuming title of " villeJ^ But its " hotel," a neat-looking framed cottage painted white, attracted my attention ; I made a hasty sketch of it while the train waited, and I now present this to my readers as fairly representing one of the t5q)es of the far West. UP THE SALT RIVER. 233 The Central Hotel " was six months old at the time of my sketch. The front part of the building was first erected, consisting, as I should suppose, for I had no time for detailed inquiries, of one room on the ground floor and two bed-rooms in the attic. The landlord had evidently prospered; as a witness we have the recent addition to the rear of the building. Probably his wife or wife and daughter perform the duties of host, hostess, cook, waiters, and other ser¬ vants, while he attends to his duties as a landed pro¬ prietor. If the place should prosper, anything like Fairmont for instance, in less than another year the " Central Hotel " would probably be enlarged to several times its present capacity, the new building and its inexpensive furniture all or nearly all paid for out of the profits of this. Eig. 44.—The beginning of a Nebraska town. Sketch taken at EriendviUe, on the Burlington and Missouri River Railway. CHAPTER XVIII. SOME EEGIOKS OF THE BLUES. Gage County.^—Beatrice.—Surface.—Soil.—Limestone.—Cement. —Native lumber.—^Non-residents.—A. canny Scotchman.—The Otoes.— A rule of morals.—Right on the average.—But might be better,—To uti¬ lize Otoes.—Jefferson County.—Fairbury.—Fillmore County.— Drainage.—Deep ploughing.—Statistics.—^Fairmont.—Its growth and trade.—^View of Fairmont. ROM Crete, which is in the beautiful valley of the Big Blue River, a wooded stream, which drains about 5,000 square miles of land in this State, and runs south- eastwardly into Kansas, I followed this valley by rail to Beatrice, in Gage County, a very thriving little town, founded by hardy pioneers long before there was a railway in the State, when supplies had to be hauled by teams sixty miles or more from landings on the Mis¬ souri Rivèr. The surface of the country along the valleys and on the high uplands is nearly level, the border line between them uneven and broken, but very little of it too much so for the plough. The soil, as described by a local authority, is "a rich, dark, vegetable mould. SOME REGIONS OF THE BLUES. 235 intermixed with sand, and strongly impregnated with lime. It is irom !§ ft. to 3 ft. deep, and it rests upon a porous subsoil of yellow clay or marl, which has the property of holding water like a spongé, and hence enables vegetation to resist alike an exhausting drought or excessive rains. Of course more sand enters into the composition of the bottom lands, but with this slight difference the soil of the uplands is the same." My own observation will bear this out as a fair, unex- aggerated statement, which, however, gives neither extreme. There are probably some upland soils much less than 18 in. in depth, and undoubtedly there are bottom lands in the county four, five, and six feet in depth of soil. The "yellow clay" mentioned is an error, not in fact, but in name. The material in question is the siliceous deposit of which several analyses have been given in preceding pages. In the banks of the Blue in this coiinty is found a very superior quality of magnesian limestone, suitable for building purposes, and in quantities practically inexhaustible. Hydraulic limestone, also of very superior quality, is likewise found, and cement works for utilizing it have been established. Native lumber from the hard woods on the banks of.the Blue and its tributaries sells at $20 to $30 per 1,000 ft., and wood for fuel at $4 to $5 per cord of 128 ft. There is no longer any government land to be had in the county. The Burhngton and Missouri River Railway Company has some 80,000 acres at $4 to $8 per acre, and the Midland Pacific about 10,000. The herd law pre¬ vails at present, as almost everywhere in Nebraska, 236 NEBRASKA. but people are growing hedges, and the time will soon come when it wiU be no longer necessary. It is a misfortune in this, as in many other counties of the State, that a large proportion of the land is held by non-resident owners who do not improve it. They bought at private entry, as it is called, in times when it was possible to do so, from the government at |1*25 per acre ; and they simply hold on, paying the taxes in the meantime, till the progress of settlement all around them shall make the land marketable at a very profit¬ able figure, say five to ten dollars an acre. This has been in many cases a very profitable sort of speculation, but many persons have gone into it to such an extent as to make themselves " land poor," as it is termed. They own so much wild land that in times of depression they can scarcely pay the taxes thereon, and scarcely obtain relief by sales unless at a considerable sacrifice. Still, these men are of great service to some of the settlers. Occasionally a shrewd man of considerable means will buy 80 acres of land in the midst of large tracts held in this way or by a railway company. He will cultivate all his own land, while the wild land about him affords abundant hay and pasturage for a large number of cattle. A man can thus have for some important practical purposes one square mile of land, or even ten for that matter, and only pay the price of 80 acres. I have met with a canny Scotchman of Australian experience who had started on this plan, thus far with decided success. His own land consisted of 80 acres on a fine stream. This was partly under cultivation. He had about 150 head of cattle, princi- SOME REGIONS OF THE BLUES. 237 pally cows, and he was rapidly increasing his stock. His hay was chiefly cut, and his lowing herds were depastured on the unoccupied, though privately owned, land about him. He said there were no such chances for a comparatively poor man to get on in Australia. But almost every settler is so greedy for land as to obtain more than he can stock or take care of, and therefore there are very few able to avail themselves of all the advantages to be obtained by not buying " specu¬ lators' land." The recent panic has brought a consider¬ able amount of this land into market at reasonable prices, and a man of means can in many cases buy it for cash to great advantage ; but unless in special cir¬ cumstances I cannot advise anyone to buy merely to hold for a rise in price, for returns both larger and safer can be obtained for judicious investments on mortgage. The Confederated Indian tribes of Otoes and Missou- rias, now dwindled to 453 souls, have a reservation of 162,854 acres of land, mostly in the southern part of this county, and which is excellent both for tillage and" grazing. The streams are fringed with timber, which is, however, rapidly disappearing, as throughout the ex¬ treme West there is scarcely the shghtest moral senti¬ ment among the white settlers against appropriating for personal use any of the natural productions of wild, unoccupied land "in reasonable quantities," as for example, stone for a well, a rude cottage, or an inclosure, wood or timber for like purposes or for fuel, hay or pasturage for cattle, &c. The limit in public senti¬ ment seems to be that one must not be too greedy and 238 NEBRASKA. appropriate more than he needs in the immediate future, nor must he appropriate anything for sale of which there is a scanty supply, limits which are, however, sometimes transgressed. But when the land is in the actual or partial occupancy of a settler, either as a home¬ stead or a pre-emption claim or as purchased property, or even when it is being improved as the "timber claim " of a person not settled thereon, the rights and wishes of the owner are generally scrupulously re¬ spected. At any rate in such cases the sentiment of the community is entirely in his favour. .It follows that no one not actually settled upon or either improving or about to improve some portion of his holding can practically become owner of native timber, meadow, or pasturage. And although this rule grates harshly against some of our notions of the inviolable rights of property, it is under the circumstances on the whole a very sound one, beneficial not merely to the poor struggling settlers-, but also to the non-resident- owners of land upon whose legal rights the trespasses are committed, for these non-residents hope to make their profits on their investments through the gradual appre¬ ciation of the land in value ; a hope, the realization of which largely depends on the prosperity of the first settlers, which in its turn very largely depends upon the ability of these people to obtain in the beginning of their contest with nature, without too much labour or expense, rude shelter, fuel, and other necessaries of existence. In a given locality one half of the land is owned by a railway company, and there are two or three acres of wood to a square mile. Generally speak- SOME REGIONS OF THE BLUES. 239 ing, in such a case settlement would proceed for the first two years at least twenty-five per cent, faster if the wood on the railway land were fi^ee to all than if it were absolutely conserved ; and this greatly enhanced rapidity of settlement would add to the value of the railway land far more than the trifling value of the wood thereon. As carriers, also, and very probably after two or three years as carriers of fuel, the railway company would of course greatly benefit, but I am now speaking of them only in their capacity as land owners, and it follows that what is true for them in this respect is true on the average for other owners. The Otoes are land owners, practically non-improvers and non-resident ; about half of their lands are now for sale and most of the rest will probably soon follow. Their selling value is being enhanced by the neighbourhood of the very persons who,are now rapidly stripping it of its timber," and I have therefore but a moderate amount of sympathy for the woes of the Indian agent who laments these depredations, and suggests to the Indian Department the costly experiment of making some very decided efibrts to restrain them. Yet it would be well if such regulations could be introduced as would prevent waste. I have never heard of a railway company trying to impose any re¬ strictions, but I would suggest to them, to Indian agents on reservations about to be sold, and to others in like circumstances, the idea of parcelling out what little timber they have to neighbouring. settlers in small measured lots, making the distribution as wide as possible, and one of its conditions that each allottee 240 NEBRASKA. should plough an effectual fire-break in front of his allotment, and conserve and protect for the owners of the land aU young trees under a certain girth. The effecttial fire-break would involve little trouble to the allottee, and the limits of forest growth would thereby be largely extended; his exclusive right to all the larger trees would be more valuable to him than the common privilege at present exercised, and if it could be fairly carried out such an arrangement would in many cases be alike beneficial to all parties concerned. The Otoes are unable to utilize any very consider¬ able proportion of their land, and 77,174 acres are now to be sold in trust for their use. They should be per¬ mitted or induced to sell all and remove otherwhere, or to sell all but an 80-acre allotment for each family, and the money should be expended in part in providing them decent habitations, and in part distributed to each family in proportion to the work performed on their several allotments, while the education of the children should be compulsory. Each child on grow¬ ing up to decent and tolerably civilized man or womanhood should have a portion, till by this means the trust fund became exhausted and the Indians were merged among the people as citizens, not wards of the State. They are now what is termed partially civilized, a low lot of vagabonds like the Pawnees, and the Indian Department has commenced with them with encouraging results a policy which looks a little in the direction that I have indicated, but which lacks that thoroughness without which there can be no complete success. Under the new policy the agent says :— SOME REGIONS OF THE BLUES. 241 " The greatest difficulty experienced is to give them enough work to do with the limited means at my command applicable for the purpose. Not the half wanting work can be employed, nor furnished tools to work with, a circumstance greatly to be regretted. The popular idea that an Indian will not work is erroneous, when they see its importance and they have an individual interest in doing so, apart from the common interests of the tribe." In this idea the agent is quite right. The Indians are amenable under more or less pressure of circum¬ stances to the same considerations which influence other varieties of the genus homo, and there would be no substantial amount of difficulty under the paternal despotism which a guardian is entitled to exercise over his wards, in carrying out such a compulsory system of labour and education among Indians receiving the bounty of the government, as would make the majority of the rising generation useful to themselves and the community. Jefferson County is the next west of Gage and south of Saline. There is in it a considerable amount of up¬ land so nearly flat that few, if any, streams are found upon it, but this is in almost all cases sufficiently porous to effectually absorb the rainfall in a reasonably short time. This soil is fertile and well adapted for wheat, while for stock purposes the lack of living water may be compensated by windmills. The Little Blue River runs diagonally through this county, and is fol¬ lowed in its course by the St. Joseph and Denver City Railway, on which is Fair bury, an active, thriving market town, and the capital of the county. On the Little Blue and its tributaries there are fine bottom lands and beautiful slopes and undulations. Dark rust- R 242 NEBRASKA. coloured sand-stone sometimes forms quite precipitous ravines along the Little Blue. It is of little economical value, but a valuable limestone is found in the north¬ western part of the county, and in Thayer County, which adjoins it on the west, and has beautiful lands on the Little Blue and the Big Sandy. Fillmore County is west of Saline, and almost entirely on the high prairie. School Creek and the West Blue flow through its two north-western town¬ ships, and the head waters of Turkey Creek flowing nearly on the range line between townships 6 and 7, the centre line of the county, drain portions of half-a-dozen townships ; but with these exceptions, there is scarcely any living water in the county. Yet the natural advantages of this county are by no means to be despised. Its soil is lacustrine, and where this is too nearly level for the rain to run off the surface and form streams, there is still, generally speaking, perfect drainage by slow percolation, the portion which cannot be permanently held in suspension in this fine compacted siliceous powder by capillary force gradually finding its way to the first substratum far below. If, in some cases, percolation is somewhat too slow for the heavier falls of rain, deep ploughing will remedy the evil; if sometimes the surface is liable to be parched through lack of rain, deep ploughing will enable the rootlets of plants to seek for moisture where the ^un and dry winds can scarcely search it out. Fillmore is one of the newer counties of Nebraska, and it is rapidly increasing in population and importance. On its assessment rolls in 1873 there were 1,418 horses. Eaton, Photo. Omaha, PANORAMA OF FAIRMONT. IN TWO PARTS—THE POINT A IS COMMON TO BOTH, BEING SHOWN AT THE RIGHT OF THE UPPER VIEW AND AT THE LEIT OF THE LOWER ONE. SOME KEGIONS OF THE BLUES. 243 118 mules and asses, 1,965 neat cattle, 62 sheep, 1,749 swine, 660 waggons. In 1874 there were 1,681 horses, an increase of nearly 20 per cent. ; 156 mules, an increase of over 30 per cent.; 2,331 neat cattle, an increase of nearly 20 per cent.; 171 sheep, an increase of 175 per cent.; 2,819 swine, an increase of over 60 per cent.; 796 waggons, an increase of over 20 per cent. Like most others of the newer counties of the State, it suffered last year a severe check from the ravages of the grasshoppers, from which, however, it will be one of the first to recover. Fairmont, on the Burlington and Missouri River Railway in the north central part of the county, is the principal market. It was " staked out " in October, 1871, at the same time that Chicago was being reduced to ashes. In 1872 about 40 car-loads, or 800,000 lbs. of grain, were shipped thence by Messrs. Porter and Mayfield, pioneer merchants of the place. The first school-house was built in 1873, at a co^t of $5,000, or about £900. The portion of the grain crop of 1873 shipped was about 6,000,000 lbs. In this summer were sold fifteen "Marsh Harvesters," a reaping- machine which carries the binders, protected from the sun by a canopy. In their comfortable protected seats two men will do the work of four men following a reaper. In the summer of 1874, 120 " Marsh Har¬ vesters " were sold here, an increase of 800 per cent., and decidedly indicative of rapid progress among the people. 770 tons of lumber, and 620 tons of agri¬ cultural implements, besides 200 tons of threshing- machines, were received here from May 1st to August 244 NEBRASKA. 11th, 1874, and a total freightage of 4,720,000 lbs. A plot of ground has been laid out, and planted with trees for the uses of a public park, and the prosperity of the place has been sufficient to tempt a holder of contiguous land to lay out seventy acres wdth corre¬ sponding streets, &c., and which is called Keith's Addi¬ tion. An " addition " involves the registration of a map, showing the streets, avenues, and public squares, if any, with the exact location and number of every building lot. The streets, &c., must be given to the public, and, generally speaking, the taxes on the lots reserved for building purposes will be very much more in the aggregate than those of the whole tract of land before it is plotted. It follows that there must be some substantial reason for hoping to sell building lots for good prices, or else the laying out of town plots, or of additions thereto, is exceedingly unwise on the part of the landowner. Fairmont may fairly be considered a typical infant town of the plain, and it is, therefore, worthy of being represented in the accompanying plate, which is a panorama of the town in two parts. It is what may be called a feather-edge view, and it accurately repre¬ sents the appearance that the town will present when it comes fairly in sight as the traveller is crossing the high prairie. CHAPTER XIX. ON THE HEADWATEES OF THE BLUES. York County.—Soil.—Surface.—Prices of land.—Seward County. —Saunders County.—Ashland.—Soil and surface.—Mr. Stoking's experience.—A splendid return.—Why sheep-husbandry is not more followed.—Assessments.—Butler County.— Surface.—Grasshoppers. —Brought.— Soil.—Windmills,—A " Homesteader."—Hail.—Beep ploughing.—Lands.—Polk County.—Comparisons.—Clay County.— Statistics.—Profitable wheat.—A blacksmith-farmer. ORK is a fine county, consisting chiefly of lacustrine upland, with perhaps a little drift in some places. It is mostly watered by the West Blue, Beaver Creek, and the Middle Blue and their tributaries, on which it has some very fine bottom land. Some of the upland consists of tables, much of it is gently undulating, and a small portion is rather too much broken with ravines There would not be any difficulty in finding, at fair prices, any reasonable number of desirable improved or unimproved farms in this county. York, the capital, is very well situated on Beaver Creek, in the centre of the county, and it will eventually become a con- 246 NEBEASKA. siderable local market. It is hoped that the Midland Pacific Railway will be completed to this point in the bourse of 1875. The Burlington and Missouri River and Union Pacific Railways have lands for sale in this county, and the prices range from |5 per acre upwards. Seward County is the next east of York and north of Saline, and it bears a strong general resemblance to the former, having, however, rather more bottom land. It is watered by the three main branches of the Big Blue, two of which unite near Seward, the county seat, a thriving market town, which was the western terminus of the Midland Pacific Railway at the time of my visit. The Burlington and Missouri River Railway is the great landowner, and there is an abundance of good land for sale slightly improved or otherwise. Saunders County is north-eastward of Seward, and north of Lancaster. Its chief market, which was until recently its capital, is Ashland, a very neat and thriving town, well situated on the Burlington and Missouri River Railway near the mouth of Salt Creek. Good building stone is found in the vicinity, and the surrounding country is rich and fertile, mostly con¬ sisting of undulating upland. The western part of the county is, to a very considerable extent, cut up by ravines ; and although it consists of the rich lacustrine, it is scarcely so well adapted for tillage as. for sheep husbandry. The most considerable flockmaster at present is Mr. Moses Stoking, who is settled near Wauhoo, and through a mutual acquaintance, has given me the following statement :— ON THE HEADWATERS OF THE BLUES. 247 Wauhoo, Saunders Co, Nov. 5th, 1874. First.—I will present the statement for 1873 of Mr. P. T. Myers, an experienced Flockmaster of Gage Co Mr. Myers keeps 1,000 sheep. Dr. Fhck Statement, 1872 to 1873. To 100 tons of hay at $3 00 per ton for putting up, $300 ; 500 bushels of sheaf oats, $100 ; shepherding for eight months, $150 ; wages of one man for four months, $100 ; wages of one man for one month, $30 ; washing, shearing, and packing wool, $200 ; salt, $35 ; shedding for winter, $50 ; losses at two per cent., $70 ; total expenses ...... $1,035 Cr. By 4,500 lbs. of wool at 40 cents per lb., $1,800 ; 400 lambs, at $2*50, $1,000 ; total income .... $2,800 Total expenses as above ..... $1,035 To nett profit to balance ..... 1,765 2,800. It will be observed that Mr. Myers has allowed liberal prices for the hay and oats when produced on the farm where fed ; also for the labour of feeding and herding, and for washing, shearing, and packing wool the allowance is more than liberal. My own statement, including the time from July, 1872, to July, 1873, is lost, and my memory does not enable me to reproduce it in fuU. We sheared in 1872 1,440 sheep, and in 1873, 1,664 head, which clipped over 11,900 lbs. of wool sold in Ash¬ land for 24 cents per lb. The losses in sheep were 2 per cent. The total expense for the year, $1,064, being 64 cents per head. The following statement includes time from July, 1873, to July, 1874, and covers the longest foddering season which has occurred in the State during my experience :— 248 NEBRASKA. Flock Statement, July, 1873, to 1874. Dr. 1,664 sheep at $3'00 . ^4,992'00 160 tons of hay at ^1*50 240'00 1,500 bushels corn at 50 cents 750*00 6 months' labour and board, feeding . . 138*00 12 his. salt at $3*00 . 36*00 59 sheep lost at $2*00. 118*00 Shearing 1,652 sheep at 10 cents .... 165*20 Burlaps and twine . . 24*17 Hauling to depot and shipping .... 6 months' labour and board herding. 25*00 108*00 ,596*37 304 muttons sold . . 351 lambs raised . 11,600 lbs. wool at 30 cents. ..... Amount to balance capi¬ tal and cost . . . Gr. $918*75 702-00 3,480*00 1,495*62 ,596*37 The above comes pretty near proving the truthfulness of a remark made to me in Michigan, by a farmer of that State while getting my flock ; said he : " Sheep are the only things I ever knew from which a farmer can get his capital back each year, and still have his sheep left." When we consider that Nebraska is admirably adapted to sheep raising, that water is sweet and plentiful, that the grasses are varied, rich, and abundant, and that the climate is one of the most congenial in the world for wool growing, that sheep even when kept in large flocks have ever continued healthy; is it not strange that so few of her citizens have as yet embarked in the business of wool growing ?... "WTiat field of enterprise offers stronger inducements to capital and labour ? Truly yours, M. Stoking. Mr. Stoking's allowance of $1*50 per ton for curing his hay is a low one, but with good machinery, heavy grass, and favourable circumstances, it could be done for that figure. His sheep were evidently well bought, and their yield decidedly more than the average for ON THE HEADWATERS OF THE BLUES. 249 sheep held at that price, although the prices which he obtained for his wool are low. The answer to the question with which he concludes is to be found in the fact (a) that comparatively few of the people have much idea of the advantages of sheep raising ; (b) that of these few there are fewer still who have confidence that they could successfully buy and manage a con¬ siderable flock; (c) and of these a still smaller number have the means not committed in other directions be¬ fore the superior advantages of sheep husbandry were known to them. The average assessment valuation of land in Saunders in 1874 was $4*51; there were 3,986 horses valued at $49*77 ; 417 mules and asses at $63*90 ; 8,634 neat cattle at $17*35; 1,643 sheep (about the number of Mr. Stoking's flock) at $1*62; 12,972 swine at $1*15. Butler County is west and north of Seward, and it is best reached from Columbus or Schuyler on the opposite side of the Platte. It comprises a wide bottom on the Platte, generally bounded by a steep bluff, a high, almost perfectly level, table land without running water, some undulating and some more or less broken prairie. On the occasion of my only visit to this county I saw that the grasshoppers in the bottom in considerable numbers were commencing their ravages, but when I had mounted to the upland I found that the devouring Caloptenus Spretus had not put in an appearance there, but the surface was dry and the grass and the crops were suffering from drought. At Summit two or three " stores " and other buildings, some agricultural implements exposed on the grass for 250 NEBRASKA. sale, and a few homesteaders collected, indicated the first beginnings of a business centre. Sweeping gradually westward, I drove over the high prairie till I came to the first undulations which indicated the water-shed of the Big Blue, and I then returned on the line dividing the counties of Polk and Butler. I saw one pond nearly dry, on the leeward side of which I should not care to live in summer, although there were no streams. This was the only place where I perceived any indica¬ tions of water standing too long on the soil; but doubtless there may be other small ponds in slight depressions at least during the wettest part of the year. However, I should think it likely that this one would disappear altogether if the land sloping gently towards it should be tilled, as this would considerably increase the absorbing powers of the soil. The dark colour of the vegetable humus, as we should naturally expect, is found to penetrate deeper than is generally the case on sloping lands of the same lacustrine. Everything bore evidence of a deep rich soil. I saw several windmiU pumps, which are of course the only really convenient means of watering stock, and driving to one of these I found a homesteader of three years' standing who was evidently getting things "pretty well fixed " around him. His maize was in very good condition, and his wheat, though late, appeared likely to produce a good crop. On his farm there was not the slightest indication of that drought of which the people generally had begun seriously to complain. He told me the secret of the difference was deep ploughing, which enabled the roots of his maize and wheat to find ON THE HEADWATERS OF THE BLUES. 251 sufficient moisture, while that of his neighbours was being parched with the surface soil. The late¬ ness of his wheat was owing to the fact that he had been visited by one of those hailstorms of a severe but an extremely local character, which sometimes " occur in the West.^ His wheat was as he said all cut to pieces, but it had stooled out again and was going to make him a fair crop. But for his deep ploughing it would have commenced to wither about the time it should have been in bloom. The Union Pacific Railway has still a very considerable amount of land in Butler and Polk, but it is being rapidly sold off. Slightly im¬ proved homesteads of 160 acres sell at from $500 to $800 ; present occupant conveying no title, but merely leaving it to be entered by the buyer, who must obtain his title from the Government by pre-emption or five years' residence. The county consists of 372,480 acres, and unimproved land sells at from $4 to $8 per acre. One entire township, 36 square miles, on the head waters of Plum Creek, is held by non-residents who are said to be willing to sell on moderate terms. Polk County is more sandy near the Platte, and it has a greater amount of land descending towards the Blue, but it bears such a general likeness to Butler County that a separate description seems scarcely necessary. The prices of land in this county, quality for quality, differ little from those of Butler. 1 This was the only instance of damage by hail that I met with in al of my wanderings in Nebraska. 252 NEBRASKA. The counties of Nebraska thus far described com¬ prise somewhat less than two-sevenths of the area, and rather more than six-sevenths of the population, accord¬ ing to the census of 1874. Their average population is therefore about nine persons per square mile, and that of the rest of Nebraska, taken as a whole, is six persons to ten square miles. In its general features Clay County is very similar to Fillmore, which adjoins it on the east. It contains nearly 370,000 acres of land, of which very little is in any way unfit for tillage. The prices of wild land vary from $3 to |8 per acre. The population of the county was fifty-four in 1870, and 3,622 in 1874. Its assessment rolls increased fi-om 1873 to 1874, in the number of horses, from 816 to 1,331 ; mules from 111 to 128; neat cattle from 918 to 1,683; swine from 677 to 1,644; and in waggons and carriages from 423 to 617. Mr. E. W. Grinell, residing two and a half miles from Harvard, in this county, made the following statement of his wheat of 1873. He had homesteaded 160 acres of land, and cultivated wheat on 100 acres. His figures are :— Breaking 100 acres at $2, $200; second breaking at $1'50, $150 ; sowing, $30 ; seed wheat, 150 bushels, $150 ; cutting and stacking at $2*50 per • acre, $250 ; threshing 4i cents per bushel, $99 ; hauling 2± miles to market at 75 cents per load, $41*25; total ..... $920*25 The yield from this 100 acres was 2,200 bushels of wheat, which he sold at 92 cents per bushel . . . $2,024*00 Profit ....... $1,103*75 Placing the value of his land, which was a free gift ON THE HEADWATERS OF THE BLUES. 253 from tlie government, at $8 per acre, the price at which the railway land adjoining his farm is held, and the profits of the one crop are seen to be 38 per cent, more than the gross value of the land on which it was grown, and it comes within |93 of sufficient to buy a quarter section, or 160 acres. I have not learned the result of his crop of 1874; but it could, under no cir¬ cumstances, have been so profitable, because wheat has been much lower; but he would probably plough but once for his second crop, which makes a very material difference in the expense. In the spring of 1872, Mr. A. H. Myers, a black¬ smith, settled in the vicinity of Harvard, in Clay County, and obtained 160 acres on the rolling prairie. He had a wife and several children, and some stock and trade implements, but very little money. He kept his anvil ringing for some time in Harvard ; and then built his smithy on his land, and cultivated his farm. In the spring of 1874 he had to employ two men to meet the demand for his work on the part of his neigh¬ bours; but at the same time he planted 70 acres of his land with wheat, 15 with oats, 64 with corn, and 2 with potatoes. In addition to these crops, Mr. Myers has an orchard in good shape, a nursery in which there are 15,000 soft maples raised from the seed, and 600 rods of hedge row, made up of Osage orange and grey willow. Mr, Myers, in American phrase, is "well fixed;" and what he has done thousands of others may do on the fertile lands of this State. CHAPTER XX. SOUTH OENTEAL NEBEASKA. Adams County.—Sand, drift, and lacustrine.—Market and true values of broken land.—Bottom lands, malarious diseases, and running water.— How to buy.—Snowstorms sometimes dangerous if there are no sufficient landmarks.—Statistics.—^Nuckolls County.—Eailways.—Grasshoppers. —Local market on the Eepublican checked for the present.—The best remedies.—Statistics of Nuckolls.—Webster County.—Statistics.— Franklin County.—An experience.—Statistics.—Harlan County.— Its progress.—Furnas County.—100® west and irrigation?—Progress.— Gosper and Phelps.—Kearney County.—A distinction.—Percolation and lakelets.—Fort Kearney.—A proposed national speculation.—^An alternative suggestion.—Mr. Sydenham's experience. DAMS County differs very materially from Clay. Being at the head of the Little Blue River, and of a creek running into the Big Blue, it is broken by numerous ravines. It has, however, some fine lacustrine up¬ lands, and on the Little Blue, from twelve to fifteen miles from the railway, I saw some bottom lands that can scarcely be surpassed. A considerable portion of the county is too sandy, and the " drift," a coarse gravelly deposit, crops out in some places. There is, however, an abundance of good upland or bottom to be SOUTH CENTEAL NEBRASKA. 255 obtained in the county. Western Americans have a great objection to land that is a little broken by ravines. If a plough cannot be run in every direction over a field of 160 acres, its value in the market is very con¬ siderably diminished, unless the obstruction is a living stream. Now, I do not think it should make any very substantial difference whether the farm can be cul- tivated in one field, or whether in ploughing we must divide it into two or three irregular plots; and I am inclined to think that one or two deep ravines are an advantage in a farm rather than otherwise, for they will afford much shelter for stock ; and if the sides are too steep for general tillage, they may, with great advantage, be planted with timber. In such a case I should look to the acreage lost to the plough, figure its value for timber, and the value of the ravine bottom as a stock shelter or for meadow, and then strike a balance. I think that in purchasing it will thus be found that there is often a difference of from ten to twenty per cent, in favour of buying a farm that is a little cut up by ravines. But it may be so much cut up as to be fit only for a grazing farm ; in which case, of course, no one who wishes arable land would have it at any price. People are also, in my judgment, much too fond of obtaining bottom lands. A sod of eighteen inches to two feet in depth, such as can often, and indeed very generally, be found in the upland, is deep and rich enough for all practical purposes. The soil of a bottom SÍK feet deep is and will be very little, if anything, better, till we get the knack of setting it up edgewise 256 NEBRASKA. and cultivating both sides. And if any malarious diseases are possible in a county, they are sure to come in the bottom lands, and especially on the banks of the wooded streams, just where the settlers are most fond of placing their houses. Neither is running water a very important consideration on a farm. One can seldom have it just where he wants it, and at any rate he must almost always have a well for family purposes. Now if, in buying a farm of 160 acres, he calculates the cost of a well, and adds to this two-thirds of the difference charged him for running water, he will find that it will generally give him a windmill pump, which will not only water his stock, but will draw all the water for family use, and it will also be just in the right place. By adding a little more to the price, he will find that he can make his windmill a general motive power to cut hay, straw, or maize stalks; to crush oats, to grind maize, and to do many other little, but yet quite important things, which wül be otherwise neglected. Thus, to buy land to the best possible advantage for our purposes, it is necessary to know the foibles of the people among whom we propose to dwell, and also the prices which desirable improvements of various sorts, qualities, and degrees are likely to cost us. I passed in this county a cabin, whence a feeble old man issued in a storm, in 1872, to attend to his stock, and became bewildered and lost, and never returned alive. Everybody should have landmarks about his place. A row of young trees between the stock yard and the cabin would probably have saved this man's life ; SOUTH CENTRAL NEBRASKA. 257 a row of sticks or boards on the side of the path, a deeply-ploughed furrow, or a clothes-line attached from the house to the corner of the yard, would almost cer¬ tainly have done so. Considering the extreme care¬ lessness of people, the great neglect of landmarks, and the fact that when blinded by driving snow one is very likely to lose his presence of mind at the same time that he loses his way, it is very surprising that so few disasters occur. The population of Adams County was nineteen in .1870, and in 1874 it had increased to 2,694. From 1873 to 1874 the number of horses assessed had in¬ creased from 382 to 886; mules from 45 to 116; neat cattle from 587 to 1,316; and swine from 349 to 879, a rapidity of growth which augurs well for the future. NuckoUs is a fine county, the northern half watered by the Little Blue and its tributaries, and the southern half by the Republican, a magnificent stream with very fine wide bottom lands, and which is fed by numerous small branches and streamlets which have cut deep channels through the soft lacustrine. The St. Joseph and Denver City Railway crosses diagonally the north¬ eastern township of the county, and for the present, therefore, its facilities for shipping produce or receiving merchandise are decidedly superior to those of the other counties in this valley. But with their rapid rate of growth these counties have necessarily had good local markets, and unless through a check in the tide of immigration they would scarcely need to ship any con¬ siderable portion of their produce until the inevitable s 258 NEBRASKA. railway runs up the valley and into Colorado. Unfor¬ tunately the ravages of the grasshoppers in 1874 will have given this check, and the immigration of 1875 or even that of 1876 can scarcely be expected to be suffi¬ cient to consume the surplus produced by the older settlers. This check is in the nature of a panic, to a large extent without rhyme or reason, but. it can neither be ignored nor can it be at once argued away. Under these circumstances it is to be hoped that the present settlers will have turned their attention as much as possible to articles which will bear transportation across the " divide " to the Union Pacific Railway. Wool, cattle, and dairy products would bear this ex¬ pense very well, but only a few will have the means to embark in these branches of farming industry. There will have been some difficulty even in turning their attention to pork, the poor man's stock, to such an extent as would be necessary to consume their surplus of maize and wheat of a moderately good year. Un¬ less in a year of comparative scarcity and high prices, wheat will pay better as food for swine than it will if transported by waggon for very long distances to a market. Pound for pound it goes much further than maize, it can be produced on suitable land at a cost of 40 cents per bushel or less under favourable circum¬ stances, and it would be safer and therefore better for a man who fed aU of his surplus to swine to raise both maize and wheat instead of trusting entirelytotheformer. If the farmers of the Republican Valley could manage through their "Grange" organizations• or otherwise to pack their own pork and to cure their own ham and bacon SOUTH CENTRAL NEBRASKA. 259 in the best manner for shipment, I am confident that every bushel of wheat properly fed to swine would net them close upon a dollar. Nuckolls County had eight inhabitants in 1870, and 942 in 1874, and in 1873 and 1874 respectively it had of horses, 257 and 406; of mules, 44 and 52; of neat cattle, 901 and 1,203; and of swine 383 and 930. Webster County is the next west of Nuckolls and south of Adams. The northern tier of townships is mostly drained by the head waters of the Little Blue, and the other three-fourths of the county by numerous small feeders of the Kepublican. It is a very fine county, but more broken than Nuckolls or Franklin. Its population was 16 in 1870, and 2,250 in 1874. In 1873 and 1874 respectively it had 647 and 828 horses; 73 and 131 mules; 684 and 1,661 neat cattle; 387 and 1,226 swine, and waggons and carriages increased fi*om 250 to 394. Franklin is next , west of Webster and south of Kearney County, and consists of similar land to the former. Its population numbered 26 in 1870,. and 1,821 in 1874. Its horses increased last year to 570 from 340 the year before, its mules to 84 from 67, its neat cattle to 1,045 from 658, its swine to 1,644 from 677, and its carriages and waggons to 617 fi'om 423, while the number of sheep declined fi-om 50 to 37. Mr. M. S. Endlong settled on the edge of Franklin County, bordering on Kearney County, in March, 1872. When he arrived on his homestead with his two sons, he had four horses, but only eleven dollars in money. At the beginning of 1874 he found himself with 260 NEBRASKA. enough to live on and with 100 acres of land under cultivation, an orchard in which there were 500 young apple trees, 100 pear trees, and 100 cherry trees; and a vineyard in which there were 500 grape vines. In the spring of 1874 it was his intention to plant out 200 more apple trees, 200 peach trees, and 500 vines. Mr. Budlong's farm is on the open prairie ; and he is an example of what an energetic man with small means may accomplish on the prairie. Harlan County contains rather more valley land than Franklin, but it is in many respects a counterpart of the last. Here, however, the nearest part of the main Republican VaUey is less than 40 miles from Plum Creek on the Union Pacific Railway, where the Platte is well bridged. Harlan was without inhabi¬ tants in 1870, and it had 1,847 in 1874. On its assess¬ ment rolls in 1873 and 1874 respectively there were 352 and 644 horses, 68 and 103 mules, 943 and 1,213 neat cattle, 187 and 476 swine. Furnas County is one-fourth larger than either of the six last described ; it has a very large proportionate amount of fine bottom land, the upland consisting still of lacustrine. The hundredth meridian west from Greenwich passes through the county. Some years ago the 99th meridian was given as the western limit of the profitable growth of cereals without irrigation. More recently the balance of opinion has seemed to favour the meridian of 100 as the limit, and some settlers indisposed to believe in imaginary lines, have pushed far westward of this boundary. That for the pre¬ sent there is a western limit is certain, but our data for SOUTH CENTKAL NEBRASKA. 261 fixing it are almost entirely wanting. When it is found, however, it will be very irregular, curving westward here and eastward there, as isothermal lines curve north¬ ward and southward. Some people have asserted that this limit is farther westward in the Kepublican Valley than in that of the Platte, but so far as I know, the data are quite insufficient to determine this point. Kain- fall observations are far from difficult, and it is much to be wished that they might be quickly extended very thoroughly over the western portions of the State. In Furnas County the main Eepublican Valley approaches nearer to that of the Platte than anywhere else in its course. This county was without inhabitants in 1870 ; it had 1,342 in 1874, and 536 horses as against 337 in 1873 ; 50 mules as against 37 ; 1,220 neat cattle as against 535; 363 swine as against 96; 278 carriages and waggons as against 153. Gosper County is decidedly smaller than any other in this part of Nebraska. It is north of Furnas, and its north-eastern corner is on the Platte. It is mostly lacustrine upland, but it contains a sandy strip on the north and a little of the Platte Valley. There was no assessment in 1873 or 1874. In the latter year the population was estimated at 100. Phelps is the next county eastward. It comprises a strip of the Platte Valley in the north, a sandy strip, and a wide lacustrine table with scarcely any running water. Its population in 1874 was 101. Kearney County is south of the Platte, and between Phelps and Adams, and as untravelled Englishmen with a pardonable yet regrettable want of strict geogra- 262 NEBRASKA. phical accuracy sometimes confound the city of Penn¬ sylvania with the State of Brotherly Love, and the District of Washington with the Territory of Columbia, to prevent a more unfortunate error it may be well to mention here that Kearney County and Kearney City are places totally distinct, on opposite sides of the river, and differing as yet very much in superficial ex¬ tent, notwithstanding recent additions to the latter, and a new bridge across the Platte. The northern part of the county consists of bottom land somewhat sandy, then a sand-hill region, and next the usual lacustrine upland. Small portions are drained by the head waters of the Little Blue, and by feeders of the Republican. A large proportion is very nearly level and drains by percolation to the strata below, while in the south-west are numerous hollows in which lake¬ lets are formed.^ The population of the county was 58 in 1870, and 327 in 1874. In this county was Fort Kearney after its removal from Nebraska City. But it has served its purpose, the troops are now far away and the reservation will pro¬ bably soon be sold, unless Congress should in its sove¬ reign wisdom remove the capital from Washington to this place, and inaugurate a national speculation inbuild- ^ Shown approximately on the geological map, but omitted in the general map, because I was unable to obtain such accurate surveys and observations as would fix their precise locations and extent. They are more or less periodical in their character. There are some other lakelets in the surveyed portions of the State which are omitted from the general map for the same reasons, but their approximate location and extent will be found on the geological map. SOUTH CENTRAL NEBRASKA. 263 ing lots. It has been calculated that by so doing they can sell out the marble palaces of Washington at a price which will enable them to build better ones here. But I fear that they wiU have but little faith in so profit¬ able an ending of such an enterprise, and I can scarcely hope that they will embark in it, especially as there seems to me to be a much better site among the mag¬ nificent scenery of the Yellowstone National Park, where there is plenty of stone, where the geysers may be used for the concoction of hot drinks and the Yellowstone Lake for cold, and where the Devil's Cauldron and many other suggestive curiosities are ready to hand. Mr. M. H. Sydenham is an Englishman, and was resident in London until he was eighteen years old. At that age he passed over the Atlantic to America; and, after various adventures in the States, he became a fi'eighter in the employ of the general Government, in the then territory of Nebraska. The freighters were employed in carrying stores and provisions from the towns on the Missouri River to the military forts on the plains, and on the slopes of the Rocky Mountains. In the year 1856, Mr. Sydenham and his party were return¬ ing from Fort Laramie, in what is now Wyoming terri¬ tory, to Fort Leavenworth, in Kansas. The winter that year came unusually early, and was terribly severe. The party found it necessary to shelter themselves and mules in a cañón ; and next morning they discovered that the snow had drifted thickly upon them, and that further progress was impossible. The situation was one of extreme peril ; and they must have died in the 264 NEBRASKA. cañón liad not a party of Sioux, who were out hunting come upon them. They joined the Sioux camp, hunted with the Indians for a week, and then started on a journey to Fort Kearney, sixteen miles, and it was sixteen days before they covered the distance. Mr. Sydenham then concluded that he had had enough of freighting, and he resolved that his home should be in the neighbourhood of the fort, on the one perfect spot in the most beautiful valley on which his eyes had ever rested. He has lived there nearly eighteen years, and has seen the fort reduced in importance from a considerable military centre necessary to keep the Indians in check, to a mere sergeant's post, until now when the old frontier fort, surrounded by thriving settlements, is no longer needed, and is being dis¬ mantled altogether. Mr. Sydenham has a hearty— some people say a too enthusiastic—faith in the future of Nebraska in general, and in particular of the region where he has made his home. He has proved the capacity of the soil to bear in profusion all the fruits, grains, and vegetables of the temperate zone; and as an owner of land he is looking hopefully to the time when this will be the richest agricultural State in the American Union. CHAPTER XXI. SOUTH CENTEAL NEBEASKA (continued). Hamilton and Hall.—The Platte bridge.—The islands.—A huge drift and its probable causes.—Fig. 45.—The upland.—Locusts.—From Hall to Howabd.—The Loup bottom.—Stone and timber.—Clay.— St. Paul.—Caloptenus the all-devouring.—Impecunious new-comers.— Variety of crops.—The story of Manuel.—Land.—Sheeman County.— Buffalo County.—Dawson County.—Plum Creek.—The Johnson House.—A good plan.—Another, sometimes a better.—The Platte bridge.—The growth and importance of South Central Nebraska. A MILTON County is directly south of Merrick, and entirely south of the Platte. It is best reached from Grand Island, on the Union Pacific, or from Harvard, on the Burlington and Missouri River, Railway. I approached the cöunty from Grand Island, and thereby obtained a good idea of a large portion of Hall as well as of Hamilton. Grand Island is an important station, and a county seat, near the north bank of the Platte. It derives its name from an island in the Platte some sixty miles long by five or six broad at the widest point. The river is crossed here by a series of nine bridges from island to island. Some of the islands are entirely covered with wood, others are more or less so ; the soil is generally too sandy, but there is a great 266 NEBRASKA. quantity of very heavy, luxuriant grass, and there are said to be tracts that are excellent for tillage. In the bottom south of the Platte, as far as I examined it from this point, a soil too sandy is the rule. There is no bluff dividing the bottom from the upland, as is generally the case ; but instead there is a succession of gentle undulations, rising one above another for a mile or more in width, and terminating in a lacustrine table¬ land 100 feet above the level of the river. This long undulating incline has generally a poor, very sandy soil. It is, in my opinion, formed (as shown in fig. 45) of drifted sand, swept from almost the entire width Fig. 45. A, lacustrine deposit. B, sandbank. C, Platte River. D, sand or sand and gravel. Vertical scale, 1 in. to 100 ft. Horizontal scale, ^ in. to 1 mile. To form an approximately correct idea of the features condensed into this sketch the reader should imagine its length extended to 20 feet while its width remains as at present. This wUl give the proper breadth to the river, and show the sand¬ bank B as a gentle incline some two or three miles in width. of the Platte bottom while the main channel was some miles further north, and lodged against the south bluffs till they are entirely concealed, as an ordinary wall may be hidden by a snow drift. It is not im¬ possible that, while the deep wide vaUey was being cut SOUTH CENTRAL NEBRASKA. 267 by the current, there was a swift channel here in which sand and heavier materials were deposited, while the fine lacustrine mud sank to the bottom in the stiller water to the right ; or the effect may have been pro¬ duced by a combination of these two causes. This is a matter of interest which might be determined by taking a little trouble in excavating on the border line between the two deposits. Their imperceptible blend¬ ing well down in the ground would prove deposition by water, while a decided line of demarcation would clearly establish the agency of the wind. The forces of the air that would carry these millions on millions of tons of heavy matter for many miles, and pile them from one to one hundred feet in depth over a vast region, are as marvellous in their results as they are simple in the mode of their unwearied operation. The upland of Hamilton, which comprises almost the whole county, is the usual rich lacustrine, sometimes spreading out into extensive tables, sometimes gently undulating, and sometimes broken by the deep ravines which form some of the head waters of the north, middle, and west forks of the Blue River, which drains almost all of south-eastern Nebraska. Wheat and barley were being rapidly harvested, and there was, as I had anticipated, just about an average crop. The total yield would be large, from the in¬ creased acreage which was sown. Oats were generally light. Root crops had suffered severely from the drought. Locusts had descended in clouds in many places, injuring the oats and stripping the Indian corn of every green leaf. 268 NEBRASKA. The Platte Valley, from Grand Island, in Hall County, to St. Paul, the capital of Howard, is 27^ miles in width, the first three of which are on the Platte bottom, and mostly of very excellent quality. A rich low upland then prevails for about half-a-dozen nfiles in width, in the middle of which, in a fine little valley of its own, is Prairie Creek, a tributary stream some eighty miles long, following a general course nearly parallel with the Platte. Next comes a region of sand¬ hills some ten or twelve miles wide. A very considerable interval has elapsed since these hüls were shifting sand, and they are now thickly covered with grass. Between them are rich valleys, of from ten acres to a thousand, of rich tillable land. The Loup bottom is a light rich sandy loam, substantially .like that of the Platte, but with slighter variations in quality. What with the North, South, and Middle Forks of the Loup, and their branches, this county of Howard has much « fine bottom land. Good limestone crops out in the east bluff of the North Fork, and on Cedar Creek there is still a considerable quantity of the valuable timber from which it is named. The high upland is lacustrine, and the slopes are, to a very great extent, the same; but the presence of a clay stratum is fre¬ quently indicated. When the lacustrine deposit is well filled with water, it drips slowly, like a sponge. When clay, immediately beneath it, crops out of the side hills, the surplus water oozes out at the upper edge of this stratum in many places, which from the excep¬ tional moisture are tinged with a more vivid green, and thus denote with accuracy the presence and posi- SOUTH CENTRAL NEBRASKA. 269 tien of the less permeable stratum. St. Paul contained, at the time of my visit, but fifteen or twenty houses ; but it is a convenient centre for a large section, and it will eventually become a considerable market town. It already boasts its newspaper, which can have but a slim patronage at present, even if every farmer in the county is a subscriber. I had seen the grasshoppers very thick in some places before reaching Grand Island, and I had found some fields of maize nearly destroyed by them. But it was in Howard County that I was first brought face to face with this scourge in all its terrible reality. While I was at St. Paul's, a glance towards the sun would show them in clouds like the Milky Way on a very bright starlight night. As I left they commenced to alight in considerable numbers. Before I had got half¬ way to Dannebrog, eleven miles distant, I saw fields of Indian corn perfectly alive with them. The male flowers at the top of the plants, the rich green foliage, even the stalks, were so covered with them as to be weighed down from their usual graceful form. The colour of the fields was completely changed; there were literally hundreds, perhaps thousands, of bushels of the all-devouring insects per acre, and all of the leaves in a field would not more than suffice for a single meal. A little further I saw bare stalks, the foliage being already devoured, and the grasshoppers either gone or on the point of departure ; but the strangest sight of all was in the village of Dannebrog. Heretofore we had found the pests mostly confined to the succulent fields of maize, but now they were every- 270 NEBRASKA.. where; they impeded the progress of the horses, ánd they covered everything, green or dry. As we alighted at the hotel it seemed impossible for a kitten to put its foot down in the dusty road without stepping upon them. One's footprints were as transient as if made in water; the insects were displaced for a single second, and in the next they or their fellows were there as before. An army of locusts is indeed a mighty de¬ stroyer, and man seems quite powerless before it. Many homestead settlers are very poor, and their crop of maize is their chief dependence ; if this is destroyed, they must subsist wholly or partially upon charity till they are able to raise another crop. In some parts of Iowa and Minnesota, the sufferings in 1873 from this cause were severe, and I very much feared that there would be much distress among the poorer new-comers in portions of Nebraska. The poor man beyond all others should be careful to have several crops in due proportion, that he may not be brought to starvation by the failure or destruction of either. No one plague or pest would then be likely to ruin him, and, like his richer neighbour, he could in a measure depend for his success on the average of a number of years. I have learned of but one instance in the State in which the immigrant locusts were successfully fought. In this case they were permanently driven away by smoke. In another instance one swarm was smoked away, but the work of destruction was completed by another that came in a few hours afterwards. One man fired a small field of oats to the windward of a large field of maize that was covered with grasshoppers. SOUTH CENTRAL NEBRASKA. 271 They fell to the ground ; but reviving when the smoke was gone, they utterly destroyed the maize before they departed. This man evidently did too much of a good thing. The moderate smoke produced by the burning of two or three swaths of the oats was more likely to have driven away the pests than the overpowering smother produced by burning over the whole of a half- green field. Mr. B. F. Manuel, who has a farm in the valley of the Loup River, a little south of St. Paul, in Howard County, is fifty years old, and his family consists of a wife and four boys, the oldest fourteen years of age, and the youngest an infant of six months. Mr. Manuel himself was born where the cold gray weather of farthest "down east"—the State of Maine—makes men hardy, sharp, and " cute." He is an experienced farmer, having farmed successively in Maine,. New York, Pennsylvania, and Missouri. Early in 1872 he sold out in Missouri, and started with teams—^his family in a waggon—for the virgin prairie of Nebraska in the way that farmers travel when they are pushing West in search of a new home. The white-tüted "prairie schooner " is the home of the family for weeks. The household gods are piled in and around it, and per¬ haps there are sufficient of these to fill a second waggon. In coops slung beneath the vehicles are the denizens of the poultry yard ; and perhaps in addition, one or two slips of pigs of the Berkshire or the Poland China breed. The cattle are driven by the side of the waggons, picking up their living as they go. These " prairie schooners " are drawn by horses or oxen ; 272 NEBRASKA. they are provisioned in part for the journey, and the balance of the necessary food is purchased at the country stores, or at the farm houses on the way. By sun-down the land hunters are camped under the trees by the side of a creek. The cattle are lariated, the camp-fire is lighted, and the evening meal of coffee, biscuit, and pork spread out. It may be that a chance- shot has added game to the bill of fare; but most likely not, as the party are not out on a hunt, and do not turn out of their course to search for game. After supper it is time to turn in, the women and children on mattresses in the waggon, the men on shakedowns or whatever else is handy under the waggons. In the pleasant spring or Fall weather this "flitting" is an agreeable interlude in life ; and in this manner Mr. Manuel made his way to Howard County, Nebraska, north of the Platte River, and opened out a farm on government land, having put himself up a house. He commenced breaking the prairie towards the close of March, and planted corn and potatoes on the sod, both crops realizing well. This first year, Mr. Manuel broke 35 acres, and in October he gave this land a second ploughing. The following spring he broke an additional 65 acres, which he planted in corn, obtaining from this perfectly new land 15 bushels per acre. The older ground was planted with potatoes which yielded over 200 bushels per acre ; oats which returned 50 bushels per acre ; and corn which averaged 35 bushels per acre. In 1874 Mr. Manuel would have been in a good position, if the agricultural year had not been un¬ favourable, but as it is he purposes to stick to the SOUTH CENTRAL NEBRASKA. 273 State, and likes it better than the others he has resided in. His live stock consists of four horses, three cows, and thirty-five hogs, and he regards stock-raising as a profitable avocation. Mr. Manuel considers that a comfortable little house for a family can be erected for about |300, but that a man whose means are limited need not spend so much. In the county of Howard there are 576 sections of land, containing 368,640 acres, of which the Union Pa¬ cific Railroad owns 88,000, the Burlington and Missouri River Railroad 92,000, and the remaining 180,640 belong to settlers and the Government. Much of the Government land has been taken, but the railroad land is for sale at from $3 to $6 per acre. There were no inhabitants in 1870, but in 1874 the population was 1,339. Sherman County is west of Howard. The valley lands on the main tributaries of the Loup are very similar to those in Howard. The uplands are gently rolling in the eastern part of the county and broken in the west. The population in 1874 was 400, from which it follows that most of the government land was still open to homestead and pre-emption claims. The Burlington and Missouri River Railway Company owns nearly half of the land in the county. From Grand Island to Kearney Junction, the capital of Buffalo County, is about 45 miles. Here the St. Joseph and Denver and the Burlington and Missouri Railways connect with the Union Pacific, and this is likely to become a town of very considerable import¬ ance. The soil of the Platte bottom differs here and T 274 NEBRASKA. to the westward very considerably from that at Grand Island and to the eastward. It is more gravelly and less sandy, and is so compacted and held together— principally, as I judge, by carbonates of lime and soda —that the wind raises no more dust than it would from a stiff clay soil. Under proper cultivation it will probably bear excellent crops, although, on the whole, alkaline constituents are rather predominant. Across the river the soil of the bottom land is very sandy, and beyond it there is, as usual, a good lacustrine upland. Half-a-dozen miles to the northward is Wood Kiver, with a fine bottom, and good lacustrine prairies on either side, and a dozen miles further the well-known parallel valley of the South Loup. The population of this county was 193 in 187(^, and 2,106 in 1874. Dawson, a large county lying immediately west of Buffalo, contains as yet but few settlements, the greater part, both of the government and the railroad land, being still vacant. The Platte Valley here widens into an almost perfectly level plain about fifteen miles across. The upland is broken by numerous deep ravines ; but it is of very good quality, and it affords excellent grazing for cattle, which will here find subsistence both winter and summer, while the ravines and canons wiU afford fair shelter from storms. I stopped at Plum Creek, the county seat, 230 miles west of Omaha, where a con¬ siderable and thriving settlement has lately been made by emigrants from Pennsylvania. The character, even¬ ness, and strength of the grass, and the uniform smooth¬ ness and firmness of the unworked roads, would appear Eaton, I'hoto. Otwiha. VIEW OF PLUM CPEEK. SOUTH CENTRAL NEBRASKA. 275 to indicate better average bottom land than further to the eastward. The accompanying engraving will convey a very correct idea of the appearance of this town last winter ; but the place is growing rapidly, and a faithful repre¬ sentation of last year will not give a correct idea of this as far, at least, as buildings are concerned, and pro¬ bably not even in -the matter of shade trees. The sensible proprietor of the " Johnson House," the hotel at which I stopped, had set out some trees of consi¬ derable size, closely pruned. These were all doing well, and would begin to cast a grateful shade in another year. If every settler to whom it is possible would follow this example to a very limited extent, he would find in it a very great advantage over the ordinary practice of planting seed or cuttings, or very young trees, which are, indeed, the proper things to produce a grove or a forest; but rapidly growing as they may be, are much too slow for the purpose of affording quickly a shade in front of a dwelling. Where suitable trees are to be had, and a settler arrives in the autumn, I would advise an improvement on the plan of Mr. Johnson. Let the trees be selected before the ground is frozen, and let trenches be ploughed or dug around them at a reasonable distance, cutting off, perhaps, many of the longer roots, but leaving by far the larger portion intact. This trench should be covered with loose hay or grass, and holes to receive the trees should be prepared before-hand. Now when the ground is well frozen in the winter, it will be easy to transplant these trees with their native soil, and the tops being cut 276 NEBBASKA. off at a proper height, and perhaps some of the longer branches, they will thrive and afford shade during the first summer. The town site of Plum Creek was first opened for settlers in June, 1873, and before 1874 was ended it could boast of a brick "Episcopal" church— a stone and brick Court-house; a bridge across the Platte, and an " old-estabhshed " newspaper. A Platte bridge is of immense utility to a town on the Union Pacific Kailway, as it nearly doubles the extent of country from which the settlers are likely to come for supplies. That portion of the State which I have called South Central Nebraska, and which has mostly been described in this chapter, and the one immediately preceding, is nearly aU practically new to settlement. It comprises seventeen counties and nearly 12,000 square miles of land; and while its population was but 2,221 in 1870 or 185 persons to 1,000 square miles, it had increased to 29,871 in 1874, or 249 persons per square mile, a total increase of 803 per cent., and an average of 201 per cent, per annum. I shall now change the subject once more, and deal in the next chapter with the ravaging locusts, whose exploits in the far West have produced a profound im¬ pression in America, and have been deemed worthy to form the subject of telegraphic despatches from young America to old Mother England, and the phlegmatic fatherland of Germany. (joWestYoimgMa.n;,GoWest. Ettra. IiiHucements toïnùgraiïbsfor tJiisSeasouOnly. Hurry up ^rry up, CHAPTER XXIL THE HATEFUL LOCUST. Fig. 46.—The Red-legged Grasshopper.—The Caloptenus Spretus hateful, not despised.—Their different powers and habits accounted for. —Their periodical irruptions.—Their food.—Contesting for toddy.—Sod. corn.—Crops destroyed in 1874.—Public aid necessary in the new coun¬ ties.—UncaUed-for alarm.—Indiscriminate charity.—Abundant means. —The real sufferers.—The last wills of the Calopteni.—Their children turn from the flesh-pots of Egypt.—When new swarms may be expected. —Rank heresy.—^What turkeys can earn.—Caloptenous feasts.—The locusts in Utah.—The Mormons victorious.—The pioneer and (fig. 47) a plan for smoking out.—Another precaution (fig. 48) to protect an old field.—The eggs and the young.—^Parasites.—Winter.—^Wet weather. —Prairie fires.—Birds.—Swine, &c.—Ploughing in.—^Rolling down.— Roasting alive.—Old turkeys and young ones.—Sweeping off.—How ac¬ complished (fig. 49.)—Ditches.—Conclusions. HE figure which heads this chapter, and which is after a sketch in " Harper's Weekly " by Thomas Nast, the well- known American caricaturist, well illus¬ trates a phase of American feeling that has recently 278 NEBRASKA. been strongly prevalent in the older States, and which, though founded in fact, has been exaggerated to a degree in some measure corresponding to the distor¬ tion of proportions by which the skilful caricaturist has made an insect of insignificant size, sufficiently large to bear on his back with ease a wild Indian decked with war paint, and thirsting for the blood of the pale-faces. I have dealt with the Indians, as I have found them, in several parts of the State, all peaceable and submissive ; and although the Sioux, wild and war-like, will yet claim my attention, I have no hesitation in saying that there is no practical danger of Indian troubles in any part of Nebraska as yet open for settlement. The savage for this clever sketch was, doubtless, imported from the western part of the Indian territory, whence some wild tribes were giving trouble to South¬ eastern Colorado and South-western Kansas during last year. They were in no measure a menace to Nebraska, and they have now been efiectually disposed of, so that the regions contiguous to their former haunts will have little reason to fear them in the future. But the grasshopper is a direct and tangible evil in this State and others, and it is well to consider how far his hated presence detracts from the otherwise enormous advan¬ tages that Nebraska offers to farmers, and some other classes of the people of older communities. There is a species of grasshopper always present in Nebraska—the red-legged locust, or Caloptmus femur rubrum. These insects live, produce their offspring, and die on the great plains, as they do in every State to the Atlantic. They are generally but little regarded. THE HATEFUL LOCUST. 279 although in favourable seasons they sometimes become so numerous as to be a serious tax on the settler whose fields are surrounded by the extensive prairies which serve them as breeding grounds, and from which they attack his crops, as being more luxurious food than the wild grass to which they are accustomed. It is no very uncommon thing to see a field of wheat with very few full ears on the margins, on account of the ravages of these insects. In several instances, I have roughly computed that the amount destroyed by them was quite equal to the whole yield for a rod in width all around the field. This is equal to ten per cent, of a square ten-acre field, or five per cent, of one of forty acres; while it would be twenty per cent, of a field of two and a-half acres ; and for a moderate-sized garden it would mean total destruction to all vegetables that these locusts prefer to the grass from which they obtain their popular name. These insects do not collect in large swarms, and as they have not sufficient power of wing to sustain themselves in the air, they do not often travel very far from the place of their birth. The Caloptenus spretus^ or hateful locust, is first cousin to that above described, and which he very much re¬ sembles ; but he is far more formidable, from great powers of wing, and from the association of numbers. The Caloptenus spretus is often called the Rocky Moun¬ tain locust, jfrom the fact that its chief breeding grounds are on the high plains of the mountains, where the climate is generally dry and eminently favourable. If birds of the same species were acclimatized,—some at the sea level, and where food was not far to seek ; and 280 NEBRASKA. others on a plateau a mile or more in height, where food was scanty, those having the least power of wing would soon succumb in the latter case; and if the race were able to maintain existence, a new variety would be established, which would be especially distinguished from others by its power of wing. Far more rapidly would this change appear in an insect race whose fecundity, although the individuals exist but a single summer, is many-fold greater than that of any birds. I think, therefore, that these two species of locust were originally identical ; but however this may be, the mountain species have a power of wing which, in the less tenuous atmosphere of the plains, enables them to sustain themselves in the air for many hours ; and they have the migratory habits which I suppose would naturally result from the frequent failure of food in their native homes. Perhaps once in seven or eight years on an average, the circumstances of mountain climate will be favour¬ able to the early production of an extraordinary number of these insects, which consequently devour nearly every green thing by the time they are fully fledged, and which, to sustain existence, must then take wing to the lower regions of the plains. Their visits generally correspond with times of drought, which make in the atmosphere of the plains the nearest approach to that of the mountain plateaus ; and it may be that this circum¬ stance leads them further and further down from the mountains, even when they have not consumed all the food around them. Whether, like the bees, they have regular THE HATEFUL LOCUST. 281 rulers or not, when vast numbers of any species of insect are flying long distances in the direction of the wind, they will become massed in swarms, unless some special causes prevent ; and thus come the mountain locusts on the frontier fields of the plains. Here they taste the luxuries of civilization ; they find the succulent maize in fields, which they readily distinguish from the untilled prairie by the colour of very dark green. It is said that they will devour anything and everything, from a blade of grass or a stack of old hay to a horse and trap ; but there can be no doubt that the large majority of the more experienced of these predatory mountaineers prefer the succulent maize to everything else. When especially hungry, they will strip the trees of their foliage, and even devour the bark from the young twigs ; they will gnaw through textile fabrics, and I have seen them eagerly contesting for the refuse lemon of a whisky toddy; but this is an exceptional development of bad habits, and when respectably educated they will gene¬ rally take wing, if the weather permits, soon after they have made a good meal of the maize. Their habit of selecting the Indian corn, or other food, fi*om its colour while they are high in the air, helps to aggregate them in masses denser and more dense, till a forty-acre field is scarcely suificient to afford them a meal, the more espe¬ cially in regions where not one acre in a hundred has yet been brought under subjection to the plough. Stripping thus rapidly the few scattered fields, they are indeed formidable to the new settler who has planted nothing but a few acres of maize, and who has nothing 282 NEBRASKA. in store for the future. It happens that new beginners, for the first year on the prairie, seldom have any crop worth speaking of in the ground, maize only excepted. This is planted in the newly-turned sod, and is called " sod corn." If the season is fortunately wet, it will give a very good crop, even with this slovenly culti¬ vation ; but otherwise, it will produce little, and in a dry season next to nothing, because the roots cannot penetrate sufiâciently far to find nourishment and moisture. The aggregate value of the crops destroyed in Ne¬ braska last year by the visitation of mountain locusts was comparatively small, because it was, more than any¬ thing else, the sod corn of the new counties that was devoured, and which in such a dry season could not have averaged five bushels of the most inferior quality per acre, even if there had been no grasshoppers to bear the blame of total failure. Large numbers of settlers, who had taken up homesteads with insufiâcient means, and who depended upon luck and a wet season for their subsistence, must have suffered severely, or have re¬ ceived public charity, in any event. People in such plight hope that their crops will be tolerably good against the plainest evidence of their senses ; and when the grasshopper devours the few sickly, struggling plants, they are very apt to say, and even to think, that it is this insect alone which has come between them and a bountiful board. Settlers of two or three years' stand¬ ing also suffered severely. Maize was still their chief crop, and on their older fields those who ploughed deeply would have had .a fair yield. This was all swept away,. THE HATEFUL LOCUST. 283 and their losses, measured in bushels, were perhaps five to ten times greater than those of their new neighbours ; but they generally had some wheat and other crops al¬ most, or perhaps entirely, unharmed, and in most cases they could bear their losses without public aid. To the well-established farmers in those older counties of the State that were visited by the scourge, the loss was no greater than that often experienced in England from an exceptionally bad season, often not so great. But as in the newer counties the necessity for public aid was most evident, it was discussed everywhere in the numerous journals of the State with manifold reite¬ ration, and an indefinite number of the worst cases were adduced, not unfrequently much embellished, and copied from one paper into another, and discussed in public meetings, till people had worked themselves into no¬ thing less than a panic ; and the few journalists or other persons who expressed plain, common-sense views were considered most hard-hearted and cruel. Aid and relief societies were rapidly organized. It was impos¬ sible that, under such circumstances, they should be both efficient and economical ; and the assistance, given with the best intentions, was distributed with very little discrimination. As there had been no end of public declamation, to the effect that there is no degradation in receiving assistance after such a calamity, almost every greedy, grasping, and dishonest person who could make any excuse, however lame, asked for aid ; and it is scarcely necessary to say that many good, honest, and fairly well-to-do people, came at last to look upon this as a fair means of recouping their losses, and applied 284 NEBRASKA. for and obtained very substantial assistance. Worst of all, popularity-seeking individuals, who wished to obtain some public oifi.ce, thrust themselves forward, and often succeeded in being appointed on relief committees— people who not merely distributed without discrimina¬ tion, but who sometimes went much out of their way to persuade people that they were proper persons to apply for and obtain a share of the gifts that the public had so bountifully provided. I could give some very amusing illustrations ; but space will scarcely permit me to do so. To obtain means for a charity so large and indis¬ criminate, it was necessary to seek far and near ; and able men made speeches on the Stock Exchanges of New York, Philadelphia, and other cities, and there was no part of the country that was not laid under tribute to the locust-ravaged counties of Nebraska. Excepting a few solitary cases here and there, where a poor, proud settler struggled on without help, the persons most to be commiserated for the " grasshopper raid " were the tradespeople, particularly in the newer counties. Business they had none, or next to none; not necessarily because the people could not buy, but often because their customers were so well supplied with wearing apparel, boots, shoes, groceries, provi¬ sions, every necessary, and many luxuries of life, free of cost, by the bounty of a liberal public. This was the case up to December, 1874, and I have reason to believe that it continued throughout the winter. The grasshoppers flew south and south-eastward; some of them deposited their eggs in Nebraska, but most of them left their unwelcome bequests to Kansas, THE HATEFUL LOCUST. 285 Missouri, and more southern latitudes. None of these regions are healthy for these insects. They and their eggs are infested with destructive parasites. Compared with the number deposited, few of the eggs hatched out in 1875; but in some parts of Missouri and Kansas they were sufficiently numerous to devour almost every¬ thing before them. From some strange instinct or reason, those that became full-fledged took wing and flew northwardly, towards the more congenial climes inhabited by their progenitors. In the middle of June clouds of them were thus flying over the eastern portions of Nebraska.^ At this time of writing, it is impossible to say whether the aggregate damage in Nebraska in 1875 will be large 1 Omaha, Neb., June 14. Gbasshoppebs.—Grasshoppers in immense swarms have appeared at Plattsmouth, Neb., and are destroying everything before them. They are moving northward. Numerous clouds of them made their appearance flying northward over this place about 11 a.m. to-day, but none have alighted. Omaha, Neb., June 15, The Gbasshoppers.—The ravages of the grasshoppers thus far have been confined to a few counties in Nebraska, although myriads of them are flying over the State, coming from Kansas and Missouri and going north-westerly. The crop prospects were never finer, but grave appre¬ hensions are felt lest the grasshoppers should alight. Omaha, Neb., June 16. The Aemy op Geasshoppees.—Grasshoppers in still greater numbers than ever before have been flying at a great height in a north-west direc¬ tion throughout this State to-day. The damage thus far is comparatively small, and it is only in occasional localities that any damage is done. The market gardens around here have suflered extensively. Telegrams from New Yorh Journal of Commerce. 286 NEBRASKA. or not but on tbe plains and eastward tbey have never been known to breed extensively to the second genera^ tion. Of those that reach the mountains, it is not pro¬ bable that many will produce any healthy offspring ; and consequently the danger for the future lies chiefly in the increase from the scattered few that did not swarm out of the mountains in 1874. But this increase will be very rapid, and in six to twelve years, on the recurrence of another dry season, another visitation may be expected. It may be, doubtless it is, rank heresy to say it ; but I am strongly of opinion that the common red-legged grasshopper does decidedly more damage in Nebraska than his mountain cousin ; but his work goes on year by year* He takes here a httle and there a little, and few complain. The difference seems much like that between an insidious customs duty which raises an enormous revenue, and which touches us all deeply, 1 Just as this chapter is going to the press reports are to hand to July 1st, from which it appears that the swarms were most immense, flying very high in the air, but that comparatively few alighted in Nebraska, and that consequently, although individuals, and even some districts, suffered severely, the crops, which would have been heavy but for this visitation, still promised five per cent, above the average, while the acreage tilled was twenty per cent, over last year. The eastern wing of the army ahghted in Minnesota, where it was committing great ravages, and I suppose that the main army first alighted in the wilds of Dakota. The sparse settle¬ ments in the Canadian province of Manitoba were almost certain to be completely ravaged. Though the winds, on which is their chief depend¬ ence, should he unfavourable to their reaching the best breeding grounds in the mountain plains, it is to be feared that the locusts will hatch out next spring in large numbers in Dakota and the central wastes of British America. THE, HATEFUL LOCUST. 287 thougli we scarcely seem to know it; and one of those forced loans which are not uncommon in some countries, and which, at the cost of a world-wide commotion, pro¬ duce for their authors a comparatively small amount of plunder. And yet it would be far from difficult to keep down the native locusts. Their most voracious enemies are a very excellent investment independently of their im¬ mense insectivorous capacity. A young, half-fledged turkey will easily devour half-a-pint of locusts in a day if he can only get them. And half-a-pint of locusts one-fourth of an inch in length, represents a half bushel of mature grasshoppers, eách one inch long, and four times larger than these young ones in three dimensions. It is not to be supposed that they will often do this, for it is not often that they will be able to get so large a number of so small a size. But it is safe to say, that if a frontier farmer has twenty or thirty early young turkeys, they will each earn for him and the community, on the average, something like the value of two bushels of wheat in the first six months of their existence. The more they are able to work thus for his benefit, the fatter they grow, and the more fit for the table. The Indians eat grasshoppers in very crude condition, and they may be very good; but I never fancied shrimps or blackbeetles, periwinkles, or snails, with the insignia of their rank in life upon them ; and I have no curiosity to partake of the caloptenous feasts of Ameri¬ can aborigines ; but from my own practical experience, I am prepared to say that there are few articles of food more pleasant to the palate, and more agreeable to the 288 NEBRASKA. stomach of a hearty man, than a skilfully prepared meal of grasshoppers after they have been ground up and remanufactured in the crop and gizzard of a turkey. But although a plentiful stock of turkeys and other fowls, kept year after year, would save the new settlers more than the mountain locusts will ever destroy, they can make no perceptible impression on a swarm of these insects sufficiently numerous to devour a field of green maize in a few hours. It is not the amount, but the concentration of destructive capacity which makes the mountain locusts so terrible, and which seems to para¬ lyze the energies of the victims of his rapacity. But the supremacy of these destroyers has been contested in other regions, and I see no reason why it should not also be done in Nebraska. The Caloptenus spretus came upon the Mormons in Utah when they had no surplus stores, either of their own or of other benevolent communities, to fall back upon. With no possible help, the one problem for them was to drive out the destroyer, or for the people to perish of famine. So they fought the grasshopper with the courage of despair, and -they fought success¬ fully. Men, women, and little children flocked to the fields of corn, and by unremitting and organized effort, repeatedly drove the pests off to the uncultivated wastes. They took long ropes, and each holding an end, they dragged them over the wheatfields so as to give the grasshoppers no rest. They also built smoul¬ dering fires, and smoked them out. They drove the young grasshoppers by millions into the streams, and / \ THE HATEFUL LOCUST. 289 while helpless there, they gathered them by the bushel and buried them. Principally by these means they saved the greater portion of their crops, and although their breeding grounds were close at hand, and the pests came again and again, year after year, the Mor¬ mons were eventually conquerors in each campaign. The Mormon fields, irrigated as they are, are much smaller than those of Nebraskan farmers, and they give greater advantages for concentrated efibrt ; but on the other hand the broad acres of Nebraska ofier much greater facifities for " smoking out," a process that may be applied there to any extent, and almost without labour. Fig. 47. Part of a field. A, a border of grass two rods wide, with a couple of furrows ploughed at its outer edge, and surrounding the field; B B', &c., strips of breaking, two rods wide, in which the maize is planted ; C C, &c., strips of grass, of the same width, left between the ploughing—these strips are crossed by a couple of furrows at intervals of four rods. The pioneer farmer has often had but little practice in his art ; he generally lays his plans for good seasons, and not for bad ones; and he very seldom lays his u 290 NEBRASKA. account against the possible advent of the mountain locusts. He has, perhaps, a homestead of 160 aeres, the whole of which he intends to subdue to his uses in five or six years ; but of which he cannot get a crop in more than ten acres for the first year. The rest of his land is waste, and it is of no consequence to him if, so to speak, his ten-acre field covers twenty acres of ground, tinder these circumstances, it would be per¬ fectly convenient for him to plough his field in bars or strips, as shown in fig. 47. This arrangement of a field of maize' involves very little extra labour; and I am confident that it would enable the settler to defy the greatest swarms of calopteni that ever vexed the soul of a pioneer. The two furrows outside of all are sufiicient to enable him to prevent the grass from being burned over with the contiguous prairie. In the border A, and in the strips C, C,^ C^, &c., there will be a sufficient quantity of old dry grass to make a smouldering fire at any time when he is likely to be visited by migratory locusts, and the cross ploughings, every four rods, will enable him to keep the fire under the most perfect control. If the migratory locusts put in an appearance, he will fire a few patches of grass on the windward side, and prevent the vast body of them from alighting in his field at all ; and if considerable numbers have alighted before he has observed them, he will start fire after fire till he has smoked them from his field to the untilled prairie, or into the air again. His chief danger will be in making too much smoke and stupefying rather than driving those that have alighted. Even if swarm after THE HATEFUL LOCUST. 291 swarm, for many days, should pass over the place, a judicious promptitude and economy in firing would probably prevent any considerable loss. He should give himself up to attend to his field till the danger be passed, and he should remember that a little trouble will prevent their alighting, while, once at work, it might take much to drive them away. Many ways of keeping up his fires without burning over-much grass, will readily suggest themselves ; the important thing is to have facilities for starting and controlling fires at discretion at the outset. If, as is very unlikely, there should be a threatened " grasshopper raid " while there is so much green grass that a fire would not spread, he will at once take his mowing machine, if he has one, or his scythe if he has not, and cut some of the grass, which will probably be sufficiently dry before the un¬ welcome guests arrive. If no grasshoppers should put in an appearance, he should repeat the precaution year by year, until he has occasion to make some other use of the grassy strips, C, C\ C^, &c. If the second or third year he wishes to raise wheat, oats, or barley, in the strips B, B\ B^, &c., he wiU reduce the dimensions .of the grassy strips C, C^, &c., by three or four feet on each side, and plant a row of maize to act as a fire break, because he might possibly wish to fire the grass at a time when it would more or less endanger the wheat if they adjoined each other. Another precaution which I would suggest to new¬ comers is, to depend, under no circumstances whatever, upon sod corn for their food. The crop involves too much risk, independently of grasshoppers. Rather have 292 NEBRASKA. the peculiar system of double ploughing, elsewhere de¬ scribed, and put in a little patch of every good thing that the time, the season, and the climate will permit. If, after enough has been done in this way to insure against ordinary vicissitudes the necessary food for the year, the settler chooses to employ the more rapid pro¬ cess of ordinary breaking to bring a further portion of his land under subjection ; and if on some of this he should plant sod corn, there might be some advantage in it, and there would be no reason to accuse himself of improvidence in trusting to one crop, and that a crop which necessarily maintains a most doubtful struggle for existence. Fig. 48 represents a very efficient means of protec¬ tion against grasshoppers, which may be used with little trouble in an old field ; A being a strip separated from the rest of the surrounding prairie by a two-furrow fire break, and B, C, D, &c., being a number of different crops sown or planted in successive strips or bands. Any convenient refuse that will add to the capacity for making a smother should be thrown upon A, as oppor¬ tunity serves ; and if the field is a very large one, heaps of rubbish should be left at several points betw;een the centre and circumference, even though they occupy a few rods of space, and be some slight inconvenience to the ploughman. Not only will the strip A and the heaps of refuse at different points afford much protec¬ tion to the whole field, but the several crops thereon will help to protect each other. If the locusts are as late in their coming as they were last year in most cases in Nebraska, the wheat, oats, or barley stubble may be THE HATEFUL LOCUST. 293 fired to protect the maize ; or, if they come early, and the strip of grass. A, with the rubbish heaps, be not enough when fired to prevent their alighting or to drive them away, a few swaths, cut from the most suitable crops, may be sufficiently dry to produce an abundant smother and protect the field before the former means Fig. 48. Part of a field. A, native grass ; B, a strip of maize, potatoes, or any- other crop or crops that will act as an efficient fire break throughout the summer ; C and D, wheat, oats, barley, &c. ; B' D', &c. successive repetitions of B, 0, and D, The several strips go completely around the field. are altogether exhausted. Precautions such as these are not expensive, and they are very reasonable modes of insurance ; but their necessity will decrease rapidly with the increase of population, and of the cultivated foods which the mountain locusts unfortunately select in pre- 294 NEBRASKA. ference to the grasses that generally lie waste, and in feeding on which they would not often cause any con¬ siderable annoyance to the settlers. Orchards and nur¬ series should be especially protected.^ Though the chief danger from the hateful locusts is when they are swarming down from the mountains, there is to those regions where they arrive late in the summer, or in the early autumn, and where they deposit their eggs, no little danger from their offspring. Each- female is the possible mother of some hundreds, from which it follows as a matter of very simple figuring that if for a few generations each laid the maximum number of eggs, and each egg became a full-grown grasshopper, they would soon cover the ground to a greater depth than the lacustrine deposit, while the lower strata would be compressed into a compact mass, and the rivers would spread out over the flood plains, and then over the bluffs, from the immense flow of grasshopper blood. But, fortunately, few of the eggs come to any good ; parasites are deposited with them, and destroy great numbers ; many are hatched out in autumn, to meet untimely death from the rigour of winter ; wet weather causes many others to decay ; others are burned in the prairie fires ; and the small percentage that hatch out in* the spring, in spite of these and many other dangers, ^ It is reported that the orchards and nurseries of Governor Furnas and Sons (of which an advertisement appears at the end of this volume) have this year suffered to the extent of ^25,000. This, however, is pro¬ bably a mistake, as according to Mormon experience in Utah the trees injured in one year are likely to be thriving the next. THE HATEFUL LOCUST. 295 become very largely the prey of the birds, the swine, and other insecticides. It is not, however, for the settler in any locality where the Caloptenus spretus has deposited its eggs, to trust entirely to natural causes for their complete or sufficient destruction ; nor should he permit himself to think for a moment that if the following season should be favourable to their vitality, he would be utterly Gl Fig, 49. A and B are two stout boards or a board and a joist some twenty feet in length, fastened together with screw bolts and nuts which may be obtained in the hardware shops. Firmly held between the two is a large quantity of straw. Two boards, C and C, are attached behind, each by two bolts or hinges, so that it will play freely sidewise but will not move upwards and downwards. Two old 296 NEBRASKA. packing-cases or other boxes, D and D', on the outer ends of these boards, serve to hold turf or earth and balance the implement, so that it will constantly retain a position nearly upright. A rope or chain E, with two loops e and e', is attached in front. If the horses are attached to the loop e, as they drag the implement forward it will assume the position shown by full lines in the sketch, or if they are attached to the loop it will assume the position shown by the dotted lines. Instead of the counterbalances, D and D', and the rope E, a swivel tongue may be used, but the mode described wül be found more convenient in practice. To clear out the young grasshoppers from a given field commence on the windward side, and with the horses attached at e drag the implement along the edge of the fielà, and the pests WÜ1 try to get out of the way by hopping to the left. If the horses are then turned to go in the reverse direction while they are attached at the position of the im¬ plement wül also be reversed, so that in trying to get out of the way they will stiU jump in the same direction. It wül not take long to go over a ten-acre field in this manner. If there is not sufficient dry grass to receive them properly as they leave the field the old-straw heap should be laid under tribute in advance, and a bed pre- •pared some rods in width which wül readily take fire ; then after the brush a match wül effectually finish the work and dispose of the pests at once and for ever. The implement being light will have but little wear and will probably last as long as it is likely to be wanted ; but if this should not be the case, by unscrewing the bolts it may be conveniently refilled with straw. A Cottonwood pole with some brush¬ wood attached would answer the same purpose as this brush if dragged diagonally in the same manner, and in some cases it would be much more convenient, although it would be more likely to damage a tender crop. Other means of driving the unfledged grasshoppers, and which are perhaps better adapted to their own special circumstances, will suggest themselves to the ingenious, who wUl find among the essential conditions of such work, (a) that for speed it must be done by horse power, (6) to be effective it must be worked from the windward if there is any considerable breeze, (c) the line of draught must be at right angles to the direction in which the insects are to be driven, and {d) the implement must always have its windward end well forward of the other. powerless to cope with the evil. The fields where they have deposited their eggs should be carefully noted, and these should be ploughed deeply in the autumn, and fires should be kept out of the. unbroken prairie. If they hatch out in a wheat field in the spring, rolling will kill a great many, without seriously injuring the wheat ; if they appear in the prairie, they may be placed between two fires and roasted alive. Every turkey of the preceding season should, if possible, be kept over ; and every hen should have an early brood. Each of the old turkeys will destroy of the larvae or pupae in a THE HATEFUL LOCUST. 297 single day enough to have made bushels of grasshoppers when full grown ; and, as already indicated, the young broods will give a good account of themselves. If these measures have been unavailable or neglected, and a field is full of young locusts, as soon as these are able to hop briskly about, they may be swept ofi* the field by a horse-power broom or brush, as sketched in fig. 49, and which is so simple in construction that any farmer can make it for himself at very little cost. I have no doubt whatever that if really energetic and thorough measures, something in the nature of those described, had been taken in .Kansas and Missouri in the autumn of 1874 and the spring, of 1875, not only would the people there have saved their own crops from the young locusts, but Nebraska also would have been saved from any cause of alarm in the return grasshopper flight of the summer. It should be noted that in many cases ditches, wet or dry, are the cheapest and most eflective means of fencing. Particularly is this likely to be very fre¬ quently the case on a lacustrine soil, where the sides of the ditch may be nearly or quite perpendicular with safety. Now a field surrounded by such a ditch, of moderate width, is practically safe from invasion by un¬ fledged grasshoppers ; and if any considerable number should be bred within the field, they may be driven into the ditch, and there eflectuaUy destroyed. To state in few words the chief conclusions to which 1 have arrived, 1 think that the people of Nebraska lose more from the Caloptenus femur rubrum^ and other prairie insects, than from the much dreaded Caloptenus 298 NEBKASKA. spretus. By rearing turkeys and otker fowls, and by preserving and sheltering wild birds, they can keep down the former ; so that the gain thus effected will more than compensate the losses by the latter. The full-fledged Caloptenus spretus will select one crop in preference to another ; and the settler who has a reasonable variety of crops cannot lose his whole year's labour by their ravages. The farmer who has suflâcient means to live through bad years, and to take the average of a series, as in England, would find his occupation profitable in Nebraska, even if without taking any precautions he raised those crops only which are most liable to destruc¬ tion ; and the danger of the total loss of any crop will decrease with the increase of farming operations. Beasonably sufiâcient precautions may be taken at very little cost of money or labour. The eggs and the young, seldom escape destruction by natural causes ; but man can, and should, supplement these agencies by others of his own contrivance, which may be used, if necessary, to make the work practically complete—a work which is the more easy from that very compactness of the swarms, which causes such perfect devastation. Nebraska may now fairly expect immunity from visits of the Caloptenus spretus for from six to a dozen years ; but some precautions are so inexpensive, and they are likely to be so effectual, that I would advise that they should be taken, as I would advise a man, when he can do so at a moderate cost, to insure his house, although it may be said of almost any one residence, that it is by no means likely to be destroyed by fire. Immigration, not only of those who have too little means to make it THE HATEFUL LOCUST. 299 judicious, but of the classes most likely to succeed well in Nebraska, is checked by anything like the recent " grass¬ hopper raids," because these people cannot generally understand the whole situation and the natural rise in the market value of land is also checked, while its in¬ trinsic value is appreciably enhanced, by the prospect of immunity for a considerable number of years, and of more than average profits in consequence; from which it follows that there are some special advantages in anticipating the inevitable reaction from a condition which is in the nature of an unreasonable panic. 1 Omaha.—Specials [special telegrams] from all sections of the State report the crops generally in a very flattering condition. The copious rains the past week did very slight damage to some, hut the balance are placed beyond the fear of drouth. Farmers wül hegin harvesting next week. Grasshoppers have about disappeared. — Telegram, Boston Journal {daily^, July 8iÄ, 1875. It appears that the increase of crops in Nebraska this year from acreage and yield, notwithstanding serious local losses and a very general danger now happily past, will far more than recoup all the deficiencies of 1874. The heavier crops wiU also correspond, with very material advances in the price of wheat, the advance in English prices telling heavily in far-off Nebraska, because there is no proportionate advance in cost of trans¬ portation. CHAPTER XXIII. FOETY-THKEE THOUSAND SQUAEE MILES. Noeth Centeal Nebeaska.—Greeley County.—Its population and lands. — Stock and flock masters. — Transportation prospects.—Valley County.—Soil and surface.—Military post.—Population and prospects.— Paddock County.—^Holt County.—Timber.—Eailway prospects.— Settle¬ ments.—Unorganized territory.—South-Westeen Nebeaska.—The Sioux.—Tillage.—Grazing.—^Buffaloes.—Indian hunts.—Thefts.—Lin¬ coln County.—Hay.—North Platte.—The Plate.—Irrigation and-stock- raising.—Markets.—Windmills for irrigation.—Westeen Nebeaska.— Scenery.—Castles, pyramids, and ruined cities.—Strange animal forms.— The Eocky Mountains.—The Black HiUs.—A map illustration.—The gold-seekers, the Sioux, and the Government.—The Brûlé Sioux.—The OgaUaUas.—A hig offer.—A thousand pities.—Civilization and Sidney.— The Plate.—An excuse.—Statistics. comprising upwards of 21,000 square miles, watered by the Niobrara, the Upper Elkhorn, the Upper Loups and their tributaries. A little more than half of this region has been surveyed by the government, and in the south-eastern extremity are the two organized counties of Valley and Greeley, coniprising each about FOETY-THREE THOUSAND SQUARE MILES. 301 575 square miles, and in the north-east the nominal counties of Holt and Paddock, whose organization is as yet incomplete. Some 12,000 square miles have been surveyed by the government, but of this probably less than 250 square miles were even nominally occupied by settlers before the spring of 1875. Greeley County is north of Howard. Its bottom lands are generally fine, resembling those of the latter (described in chapter xxi.), and I understand that the uplands are mostly lacustrine, there being, however, some tracts of sand and drift. The population of the county was 209 in May, 1874. Nearly half of the land belongs to the Burlington and Missouri River Railway Company, but there is a very large amount of good government land still open for settlement. Some stock and flock masters »might do very well in this county. There is likely to be a somewhat rapid immigration, which will afibrd a home market for maize and wheat, but such products will not well bear transportation to the railway, and in this respect the same remarks apply to this county that I have made in respect of those of the Repubfican Valley. We can scarcely expect a railway in this neighbourhood as soon as in the valley of the Republican, yet its advent is likely to be a question of a few years at most, and the homestead settler who accepts the gift of 160 acres of fine land in Greeley may reasonably expect that it will have a substantial value by the time that his title is perfected. Valley County is to the westward of Greeley and north of Sherman, to both of which it bears a very considerable resemblance, having however a larger 302 NEBRASKA. extent of its upland surface covered with the Pleiocene sands, and scarcely adapted for tillage. The valleys of its principal streams are said to be very fine. A military post is established near Ord as a safeguard against possible depredations of the Sioux. The post affords a small market, and is in this way a considerable benefit to the settlers, while its presence indicates that the North Loup possesses some advantages in the com¬ mand of contiguous territory. The population of the county was 264 in May, 1874. The remarks which I have made in respect of homesteads, railway lands, and other matters in Greeley County will apply equally well in Valley, with the above-mentioned quali¬ fications. Paddock County comprises less than a fourth of what was formerly called Holt ; its land is mainly com¬ posed of drift, lacustrine, and alluvium, two of which are generally commingled. Troy, which is hkely to be its future capital, enjoys a fine site, and has a good country around it ; money and men are what it lacks for the present. The part of Holt County west of Paddock differs little from the latter, while the southern portion is nearly level, the bottom lands being very wide, and but slightly depressed below the surrounding country. It is said that the land is very fine, and there is tim¬ ber enough for present uses, while it exists in con¬ siderable quantities in the northern parts of these counties, and further up the Niobrara there is pine and other valuable timber in such quantities as to be made a very material element in the calculation of the FORTY-THREE THOUSAND SQUARE MILES. 303 prospects of a railway. For its success it would have to depend (a), upon County subsidies; (¿), upon the rapid extension of settlements; (c), upon the lumber trade from the Niobrara. Three principal railway routes are planned, one connecting with the Iowa division of the Illinois Central Kailway at Sioux City, crossing the Missouri near this point, and thence taking a general course almost due west to the pine re¬ gions of the Niobrara. Another road, along the Elkhorn Valley, is already constructed to Wisner in Cumming County, and the route is known to be a fine natural road bed along a very rich valley; this line is likely to be soonest constructed. In anticipation of this probable event settlements are being somewhat rapidly extended up the Elkhorn Valley. It is to be hoped that the immigration will be sufficiently rapid to create a home market for produce until the advent of the railway, which it will in that case very much accelerate. The third line, the Omaha and North Western, is intermediate between these two, and is ambitious of cutting away the ground from the first by means of a branch fine. It commences at Omaha, and has been constructed for 40 miles. Two out of thèse three fines will be required, and in a few years at farthest will pay good dividends on the money invested. The rapid settlement of the Platte Valley and of south-eastern Nebraska has been mainly due to railway facilities, which the next great advance in construction will doubtless extend to the northern half of the State with the like beneficial results. There is fine agricultural land capable of cultivation 304 NEBRASKA. without irrigation in unorganized portions of North Central Nebraska, but its chief use in the immediate future will be as affording vast ranges for cattle and sheep. The Sioux Indians, the southern boundary of whose reservation is the border line of Dakota, claim the right to hunt over a region vaguely defined as north of the North Platte River, and which practically includes the major part of this wide district, and the predatory proclivities of this tribe have been one reason that these lands have not as yet been extensively occupied with lowing kine, and bleating sheep. But the limit of perfect safety has been largely extended in the course of the past year, and in a year or two more it will probably comprise nearly the whole region south of the Niobrara. South-western Nebraska comprises the sparsely- settled counties on or near the head-waters of the Re¬ publican, and the two large ones of Lincoln and Keith on the Platte. I think that one or two of these upper Republican counties are adapted to produce cereals without irrigation, while Dundy and Chase on the border of Colorado certainly are not so adapted at present. But all of these counties are extremely well adapted for grazing, and there are numerous suitable locations in which persons with a capital of £1,000 or more'can attain fair competencies in a few years. In all of these counties, and in fact many miles to the eastward, sheep and cattle will winter themselves as a general rule without hay, but it should nevertheless be always provided against contingencies. This region is one of the most noted grazing-grounds of the buffalo. i È-prinQ s BY EDV^in a.curlEÍ NOTE M» • M • i 'oíUt try Seat S YORK Post ItiHites heqimiinti UNITED STATES SURVEYS 1 - . ^ t -- í1 J, en/i The tin are s on ihr roiUes denote the nn/nl>ers oP mails per n ee/r 3 Spei ¿ai Mait Supply Mail Messenaei m Jhr snudL si/iiures are earJi one mile or tj'i-0 acres. TOPOGRAPHY, LAND SURVEYS. CIVIL DIVISIONS MAIL SE RV I CES cof rectcrl to Ceb. JS75. For more detail cd e.r/da/uitions see Portc^ fxafe Iho. etc. XLI xl XXXTK xxxmxxxvnsxxvi xxxv xxxiy XX Oil xxxn xxxi xíx xxkf xxvlflxxvh xx\'i A TOlVt/SHtP entan/ed seaF nilti sections numbered and sntidii'ided to4t? ¿tores as in i/orernment surieys. m 32 2a 33 ;í0 £7. Í t m II j]2 ft- m 1 m m MILES. FORTY-THREE THOUSAND SQUARE MILES. 305 and a number of Indian tribes with distant reservations have had the privilege of sending here large hunting parties in the proper season, a privilege which has been far from an unmixed good, as notwithstanding such precautions as were taken by the government, bands from tribes inimical to each other would sometimes come in collision. The concession, which is now being generally withdrawn, would in any event be valueless in a very few years, because the buffalo are fast dis¬ appearing. Indians are rather too apt to mistake cattle for buffaloes, but no danger to stockmen iieed arise from this fact when the hunting expeditions are so far from their reservations, as proper persons may be detailed to accompany them, and they may be kept sufficiently well together to enable the government to bring home any considerable theft to the band which commits it, and for which in that case the whole tribe is held responsible, and has to pay by deductions from the allowances of the government. Lincoln County, immediately west of Dawson, com¬ prises 1,655,880 acres, watered by the two branches of the Platte, which unite in this county. Thousands of tons of hay are annually cut from the native meadows here to supply the United States military posts further west on the hne of the Union Pacific Railway. North Platte, the county seat, is between the two rivers about half a mile above the sea level, and it contains about 800 inhabitants, principally mechanics employed by the railway in the extensive shops which are located here, and by tradespeople and their families. The accom¬ panying plate will give the reader a fair idea of this X 306 NEBRASKA. place, whicli has the making of a large and thriving town. Grazing, winter and summer, is extensively carried on ; but scarcely any attention has as yet been paid to the cultivation of the soil, which, till very recently, was believed to be too dry for successful tillage without irrigation. But even if irrigation is necessary, much of the valley land, which is very rich, is so situated that the extra cost would be comparatively small, and the local markets and those further west would take at very profitable prices all of the vegetables and cereals that could be raised in the county for many years. Unfortunately, the enormous profits of grazing have very much discouraged irrigation. Most of those with capital enough to make it a certain success have cattle or sheep " on the brain," and cannot rest till they are the owners of lowing herds or bleating flocks. This business has thus far required very little know¬ ledge of any kind ; but successful irrigation requires some idea of engineering as well as of ditching, and a good knowledge of farming—it goes beyond the depth • of nine-tenths of those who have succeeded in making money enough to start a cattle ranche. The mineral regions of the mountains are more than a thousand miles wide. In these the demand for vegetable pro¬ ducts far exceeds the local supply, and it is constantly increasing. I hold that in all places near the railway where irrigation can be cheaply introduced on a good soil, it will return as large profits as are to be obtained from stock raising,and with even greater regularity, if the operations are conducted on a reasonably large scale. I hold that cereals will undoubtedly succeed in Eaton, Photo. Omaha. VIEW OF NORTH PLATTE, NEBRASKA. FORTY-THREE THOUSAND SQUARE MILES. 307 Nebraska as far west as Lincoln County without irriga¬ tion, but this will certainly prove the most profitable mode of cultivating root crops for a distance of 150 miles eastward of North Platte. In the Platte bottom lands never-failing supplies of water may be always obtained by driving a tube a few feet into the ground, and thus wind-mill pumps, as successfully applied in many places, may be very cheaply used to irrigate in the aggregate a vast tract of country in the valleys of the North and South Platte and their tributaries, from their junction westward, and also as far to the eastward as may be considered desirable. On such tracts the occupant of 80 or 160 acres of government land may be entirely independent of ditch companies. When by these or other means of irrigation these rich valleys be¬ come cultivated fields, there will be a railway up the North Platte, and that up the South Platte from Julesbury having been completed, there will be a very wide extent of populous territory tributary to this town. Western Nebraska consists of the one large county of Cheyenne, and a large tract of unsurveyed territory north of it. It is well adapted for grazing, but suc¬ cessful tillage can only be introduced to any con¬ siderable extent with the aid of irrigation, for which, however, there are many facilities. Of wild and curious scenery, beautiful in the grandeur of its desolation, there is more in this region than in any other part of Nebraska, although both beauty and grandeur are to be found lower down the Niobrara and on the Missouri. Bluffs assume in never-ending variety a huge fantastic 308 NEBRASKA. mimicry of the work of human hands, Gothic castle's, cathedrals, and immense city walls of elaborate tracery, while in other places there are huge truncated cones and pyramids, sometimes surrounded with others of many sizes, partially detached, and forming altogether a seemingly intelligent design, wonderful in its regu¬ larity, and yet of a most varied and intricate character. Here also are grave-yards of untold ages, containing vast accumulations of the strange animal forms that have inhabited earth, air, and water. The western boundary is nearly a mile in elevation on the slope of the Rocky Mountains, whose crest at Sherman is about eighty miles further westward by rail. . Some twenty-five miles beyond the northern boundary, are the foot hills of an eastern spur of the Rocky Moun¬ tains, which bears the name of the Black Hills of Dakota, and has the reputation of possessirig immense wealth of gold in the alluvial deposits of its many streams. These Black Hills are well timbered ; their geological formation, so far as known, is favourable for deposits of coal and iron, gold, silver, and copper, but they are within a reservation belonging to the Sioux. They were comparatively a terra incognita till last year, when a' military expedition, designed principally to overawe the Sioux, who were inclined to be trouble¬ some, spent a long period in exploring them, and glowing descriptions found their way into the press. Since that time quite a considerable number of expe¬ ditions of gold-seekers have been formed. The first few were warned or driven off either by the soldiers FORTY-THREE THOUSAND SQUARE MILES. 309 or the Indians, but the combined allurements of gold and adventure have proved too strong for the opposing forces, and there are now parties prospecting and mining in the Black Hills undisturbed. Indeed, it is Fig. 50. South-western portion of the Black Hills of Dakota. Bounded on the south by Nebraska and on the west by Wyoming. This is from the latest map previous to General Custer's expedition of last year. His maps and reports were not published at the date of my latest advices from Washington. said that one organization consists of 2,000 men, but so far as I know this statement is not authenticated. If, however, there are even 500 placer miners in one combination determined to stay in the Black Hills until driven out by force, they cannot be seriously molested by the Indians, and they are not likely to be interfered with by the government. To send a small force against 310 NEBRASKA. them would only cause bloodshed, and to send an over¬ whelming one would entail a heavy expense, and in either case there would be great loss of popularity, for there is a widely pervading idea at the west that the country was made for men and not for red-skinned " varmints." The government does not stand on its dignity at such cost. The Indians will therefore be told that the great father at Washington is very sorry that some of his white children are so naughty, as he always is when his red children are unruly and dis¬ obedient; but he has often forgiven his red children when they have done wrong, and in this case he is disposed to be merciful to his naughty white children, more particularly as although they are disobeying him, what they are doing can only harm his Indian children very little, and that he will take care that they shall have more beef and blankets in consequence, so that they shall be better off than if their naughty white brothers had never disobeyed him and gone to the Black Hills. The Indians wdl yield to this logic, as indeed they must, and if the placer mines of the Black Hdls are really rich enough to offer continued tempta¬ tion to gold hunters in considerable numbers they will surely be worked. There are two bands or tribes of Sioux which, although their reservations are considered to lie wholly in Da¬ kota, have, nevertheless, their agencies recently located by the Indian department within the northern border of Western Nebraska, as shown on the map. The Brûlé Sioux, under a chief named Spotted-Tail, number about 3,640 males and 3,360 females, a total of 7,000. FORTY-THREE THOUSAND SQUARE MILES. 311 There are 30 white employés at the agency, which is ■called indifferently Whetstone or Spotted-Tail, after the ■chief, and 170 other whites, including soldiers. There is one Indian that can read, and three wear citizen's dress, no half-breeds are reported, and no schools, or churches, or teachers, or missionaries, and no Indians are reported as killed by whites, or whites by Indians, nor are any crimes reported ; and they are said by the a,gent to have behaved well under circumstances of very considerable temptation to very different conduct. The " Red Cloud" agency is further westward. The Indians gathered there have been disposed to be troublesome, and they even thought of waging open war, but their chief, after sending messengers through the Powder River and Big Horn country (in Wyoming), became convinced that there was not sufficient game to last through a war, and they therefore resolved on a policy of friendliness to the government on which they were necessarily dependent for a large proportion of their food. There are reported at this agency 9,809 Ogallal- las, Minneconjous and Sans Arc Sioux, 1,202 Northern Cheyennes, and 1,092 Northern Arapahoes, a total of 12,113 ; and 3 Indians are reported as killed by hostile Indians, 21 by soldiers, and 1 by citizens, while 7 whites are reported as killed by the Indians. A Sioux deputation have recently been to Wash¬ ington, and they have doubtless seen enough on their journey to thoroughly confirm their present peaceful intentions. While they were there the government offered them $25,000 to relinquish the right to hunt in Western and North Gential Nebraska, but the offer 312 NEBRASKA. was declined, principally, as I believe, because it was to be paid in cattle and stores, rather than cash.^ Con¬ sidering the vast extent of the territory in question it cannot be said that the sum is a large one, and if its amount is a true measure of the anxiety of the govern¬ ment on account of possible collisions between the Indians and the whites, or of probable thefts of .horses and stock by the former while on pretended hunting expeditions, it would seem that for the future the danger in these directions is likely to be very small. In fact, free rations are demoralizing these Indians as they would' any population of ignorant whites, and henceforth we may look to their following rapidly in the recent footsteps of their hereditary enemies the 1 " The noble Ked Man seems to be a very suspicious, not to say sceptical and unbelieving bird. He doubts the honesty of the agent and contractor, be imputes untruthfulness to so good a man as Commissioner Smith, and be even carries bis distrustfulness to the extent of insisting upon having the cash in band, when the Government oflPers him $25,000 to relinquish bis right to bunt in Nebraska, instead of having it sent ta him in the shape of presents purchased for him by the philanthropists who, according to President Grant, know what he wants better than he does himself. We fear the noble Red Man will prove too much for his benefactors. His benefactors offer him $25,000 to give up hunt¬ ing in Nebraska. There being upwards of 50,000 Sioux Indians, this would give them in the neighbourhood of half a dollar apiece. And yet he asks for time to consider this munificent ofier. He was told that if he did not decide at once the money would lapse back into the Treasury, but in his present uncivilized condition he failed to comprehend what a calamity it would be to have anything lapse back into the Treasury, and still declined to sign the agreement. It is hardly possible, though, that the department will allow this amount of money to lapse back. There's nothing the department has such a horror of. Lapse back? Never."— New Torh Tribune, June 3, 1875. f Vv(.Ni.K ÛUJÇK Eaton, I'hoto. Omaha VIEW OF SIDNEY, NEBRASKA, FROM THE BLUFF. FORTY-THREE THOUSAND SQUARE MILES. 313 Pawnees. It is a thousand pities that this should be the. too probable future, when a just and kind, but firm and strong discipline would be far more economical, while it would preserve these Indians, or rather their children, for really useful work. There is no race on the earth that deserves extermination, and certainly not any in America, where there is room and to spare for all classes and conditions of men to work out a destiny of progressive usefulness. Keturning now to the railway and civilization we have little further to note. The most considerable settlement or town in this part of Nebraska is Sidney, the capital of Cheyenne County, of which the plate facing this page is an excellent view. There are some soldiers stationed here, and a military road has recently been opened to the Indian agencies of which I have been speaking. This will be a matter of very con¬ siderable advantage to Sidney, as this town becomes in consequence the shipping point for large quantities of supplies, both for Indians and soldiers. If the gold fever continues this will also tend much to the aggrandisement of this town, which is probably better situated for shipping to that region than Cheyenne in Wyoming Territory, its only probable competitor in the immediate future. The parts of Nebraska which I have included in this chapter comprise some 43,000 square miles of land. In other chapters I deal at considerable length with the grazing interests, which must for a long time be paramount here, and this and other utilitarian consider¬ ations must be my excuse for such summary treat- 314 NEBRASKA. ment of regions so vast, and wHcli, almost without inhabitants as they are, have many points of decided interest which, could I follow them out, would serve to relieve the dullness of a book designed for usefulness rather than pleasure. But still, bearing in mind my primary object, I have to ask the kind and patient reader to swallow a few more statistics. The census of 1870 gives the population of the then organized portion of this immense region as 1,284, of which Cheyenne County is credited with 1,032, while it had but 449 in 1874, thus indicating that they were mainly people whose occupation here was of a transient character. There were no returns of flocks and herds or of farm productions, although these are embraced within the scope of the census, and given for other parts of Nebraska. The population of unorganized North-west Territory in the State^ was given as 52. In 1874 the population was 4,245 by the incomplete State census, there being no returns made from Holt, Hitch¬ cock, Dundy, Chase, and unorganized territory, in which there are some hundreds and possibly a thousand people ; making no allowance for this nor for the tran¬ sient character of the major part of the population of 1870, the increase in four years is 217 per cent. In 1873 the assessment rolls showed 672 horses, 20,978 neat cattle, 263 swine, 100 mules and asses, 1966 sheep, 222 waggons and carriages; and in 1874, 1,033 horses, 28,736 cattle, 444 swine, 150 mules and ^ North of latitude 40° and west of longitude 103°, also between longi tude 101° 30' and 103°, and latitude 40° and "42°. FORTY-THREE THOUSAND SQUARE MILES. 315 asses, 1,592 sheep, .438 waggons and carriages; the difference in one year was an increase, rejecting fractions, of 54 per cent, in horses, 37 per cent, in cattle, 69 per cent, in swine, 50 per cent, in mules and asses, and 91 per cent, in waggons and carriages, while there was a decrease of 19 per cent, in sheep. This average increase is extremely rapid, yet the population being a small percentage per square mile, it reduces enormously the increase per square mile of Nebraska taken as a whole. The other parts of Nebraska com¬ prise from 32,000 to 33,000 square miles, not far from the area of Indiana, and they have been settled by a progression westward as Indiana was settled in a pro¬ gression of population towards the State of Illinois. Now this eastern portion of Nebraska had a population in 1874 of from 6'9 to 7 per square mile. If the reader will refer to the diagram, page 78, and roughly mark thereon the population curve for this region, he will see that its increase between like points is far more rapid than that of Indiana or any other State there represented. Those specially interested might also draw a curve for Indiana and Illinois combined, and see how far it falls below that of Nebraska as given, an operation which will also give some slight conception of the difference between the labour of pre¬ paring correctly and that of correctly reading a dia- graphic comparison. CHAPTER XXIY. ¡THE WILD FRUITS OF NEBRASKA. By Peof. S. Aughen, Ph. D. Plums.—Prunus Americana.—Its appearance, habits, abundance, and qualities, with illustrations.—P. Chicasa.—Illustrations.—Hybrids.—^A late variety.—Cultivation.—Stock for grafting peaches, plums, and apri¬ cots.—Hardiness.—The Curculio.—P. Pumila, or sand-hill cherry.—Illus¬ tration.—P. Pennsylvanica.—^P. Virginica.—Steawbereies.—Fragaria vesca.—Dehcious and abundant.—^F. Virginiana.—Illustration.—Rasp¬ berries.—RubusOccidentalis.—R. Trifloms.—R. Strigosus.—R.Villosus. —Hawthorns.—Crataegus tomentosa.—C. Malis.—June BerrieS:— Amelanchier Canadensis.—A. Alinifolia.—Wild Currants and Goose¬ berries. —Ribes HirteUum. — R. Rotimdifolium. — R. Lacustre. — R • Cynosbati.—R. Floridum.—Grapes.—Vitis aestivalis.—V. Cordifoha.— Re-classification and hybrids.—Wine.—The Mulberry.—The Buffalo Berry. — Shepherdia Argentia.—Plate. —The Elderberry. — The Papaw.—Asimina triloba.—Nuts. — Juglans nigra.—Carya Alba.— Corylus Americanus.—General Botany.—2,034 species.—149 Grasses. —Buchloe Dactyloides.—Andropogon furcatus.—A. Scoparius.—Sorghum nutans.—The composite and pulse families.—Trees.—Ferns, mosses, and lichens. ILD fruits are a prominent feature of Nebraska. They luxuriate in its rich soil and almost semi-tropical summers. Among the wild fruits of this State the plum family is a remarkable example of how nature herself THE WILD FRUITS OF NEBRASKA. 317 sometimes ameliorates and improves her original pro¬ ductions. There are three type species of plums in the State, namely, Prunus Americana^ P. chicasa^ and P.pumila. Of these there is an almost endless number of varieties. In a plum thicket in Dakota County, covering only a few acres, I counted, while in fruit, nineteen varieties of Prunus Americana and P. cJiicasa^ varying in size from a fourth to an inch and a quarter in diameter, and in colour from almost white and salmon, to many shades of yellow, tinged with green and red, and from a light, dark, and scarlet red, to purple tinged with different shades of yellow. Such instances are frequent over most portions of the State, the plums being common in almost every county, especially along the water courses, and bordering the belts of timber. These plum groves in spring time present a vast sea of flowers, whose fragrance is wafted for miles, and whose beauty attracts every eye. The varieties of the Prunus Americana have oval or obovate leaves (broader at the tip than where the stem is attached), with saw-toothed or doubly saw-toothed edges and very full of veins. The fruit is globular or oval, and ranges from a haff-inch to an inch and a quarter in diameter, the latter being an exceptionally large size. The colour is all shades of yellow, with some red and crimson. Its juice is pleasant, but its skin is tough a;nd acerb ; and its stone is sharp edged or margined. The shrub varies in height from six to twenty-five feet. The fruit ripens in August and the first half of September. These are the prevailing characters, but E. Bailey delin, WILD FRUITS OF NEBRASKA. (1 and 2) Vrimus Americana, (3 and 4) Prunus Chicasa, (5) Prunus Pumilla. 318 NEBRASKA. they vary greatly, some of the varieties producing fruit which is a great improvement in size and taste on the type species, while others again have deteriorated. Nearly all the varieties part readily from the stone. Figures 1 and 2 of the double plate, between pages 316 and 317, are delineations from nature. Still more subject to change is the Prunus chicasa^ which grows from four to twelve feet in height, some¬ times thorny, and always with long, narrow, almost lance-shaped, acute leaves, whose edges are set with very fine teeth. The fruit is globular, of all shades of red, and from half an inch to an inch or more in diameter, of pleasant (some varieties, of delicious) flavour, thin skinned, and containing an almost round and entirely marginless stone. Figure 3, same plate, is an exceptionally large variety plucked by myself in Dixon County from a shrub only four feet high. Figure 4 is a common variety from a shrub five feet high in Dakota County. Most of the varieties of this plum do not part readily from the stone. The fruit ripens the latter part of July and in August. Fig. 1 of plate facing page 322 is also a common form.^ I have found many forms that cannot be readily classed with either of these species, but seem to be a cross between the two. In fact these plums often hybridize. This is not strange where both species often grow together in such compact thickets that it is difficult to penetrate them. When the pollen of the one is carried to the pistils of the other species ^ On this plate read Prunm chicasa for Primus Americana. THE WILD FRUITS OF NEBRASKA. 319 the young plants that come from the seeds must exhibit some characters which are common to both. One variety of the Prunus Americana^ that grows from six to ten feet in height, and has greenish white fruit, occasionally tinged with yellow, rarely ripens its fruit. I have seen its fruit hard and green towards the end of October ; but when plucked, even then, and stowed away in an empty room, it readily ripens, like pears when similarly treated. Occasionally a tree is found producing a little round red plum, slightly larger than a morella cherry, which bears double fruit. Delicious as some of these wild plums are, their size and flavour are much improved by cultivation and pruning. It is easy to produce an early and fruitful grove of these plums from the seed. A tree grown in my former grounds in Dakota City yielded thirty-nine blossoms the second year from the seed, and seven hundred and ninety the third year. It is also found that these wild plums are 'magnificent stock on which to graft the peach, other varieties of plums, and the apricot. Their great hardiness, the readiness with which they unite with the old cultivated plums, makes them invaluable to those who raise such fruits. Alas! there is one drawback to this picture. The everlasting enemy of the plum, the curculio,^ is also present. The young fruit sets each year by the mil¬ lion, but some of the finest groves are sometimes for years in succession prevented by this cause from bearing ^ Gonotmchelus nenuphar, commonly spoken of as the " plum weevil."" ~E. A. C. 320 NEBRASKA. much fruit. Yet so great is the vitality of the plum family in this State that some varieties will succeed even in despite of the curculio. One such grove I found years ago along the bluffs south-west of Dakota City. The trees were laden with fruit even when all the other groves in the neighbourhood were almost entirely shorn of their treasures. The foliage indicated a hybrid be¬ tween the two species under consideration, at least it possessed some characteristics that belonged to these two separately, along with others of its own. The fruit was large for wild plums, the skin tough, though comparatively thin, and could readily be pared. The flesh was hard and acid until it was fully ripe, when it became juicy and melting. I have no doubt varieties of this kind could be selected from these ample stores of nature which would be of incalculable value to the horticulturist. The dwarf or sand-hill cherry, so famous on our western plains, is really botanically a dwarf plum, Prunus pumila — and therefore we speak of it last. The stem is smooth, depressed, trailing or semi-erect, from eight to twenty-four inches high. The leaves are obovate lanceolate, tapering to the base, sometimes a little toothed towards the apex, and pale underneath ; the flowers numerous, two to four in a cluster. The fruit varies greatly, but is generally about half an inch long and three-eighths broad, ovoid, dark purple, brown purple, brown, reddish, or nearly black, generally sweet, sometimes delicious and occasionally almost insipid. It is enormously productive. Figure 5, double plate, is a specimen of this fruit, natural size, taken from a shrub THE WILD FRUITS OF NEBRASKA. 321 thirteen inches high from the root, and found south of Lowell. The shrub has a spreading habit, forming dense masses, sometimes covering from thirty to sixty square feet of ground, but usually the tufts are not more than from fifteen to twenty-five feet in area. It suckers abundantly from the roots, and propagates in this way as well as by seeds. It is found over the greater part of the western half of the State, and while it is not excluded from the richest soil if dry, it seems to be partial to sandy localities, rich in alka¬ line earths. As this plum is nearly related to some of our cultivated varieties of cherries, and the stamens and pistils of the flowers are large in both, it will require no great skill to produce a cross between them. And as Fuller has remarked (" Small Fruit Culturist"), a cross between the dwarf plum and a Bigarreau or MoreUa variety, retaining the dwarf habit, vigour, and productiveness of the former, with the flavour of the latter, would be an acquisition of incalculable value, and would completely revolutionize cherry culture. However this may be, the best varieties of the dwarf cherry are valuable as they come from the hand of nature. Many an explorer and traveller in the un¬ settled regions has been refreshed by them, and the day is not distant when this fruit will, as it deserves to, have a place in the gardens of all the people. Three species of wild cherries grow in various parts of the States. The wild red cherry. Prunus Pennsyl- vanica^ grows sometimes to the dimensions of a small tree. Its leaves are oblong, lanceolate, pointed, mar¬ gins finely saw-toothed, green on both sides, flowers Y 322 nebraska. on long stems, and the fruit of a light red colour, sour, very small and of little merit. The wild black cherry, Prunus seritina^ is valuable only for its wood, which is close grained, reddish or brownish, and highly esteemed by the cabinet maker for the fine polish of which it is capable. The lance oblong, smooth leaves are taper pointed, glandular and saw-toothed. The flowers are produced in long clusters {racemes) ; its fruit is reddish or purplish black, ripening in autumn. Though the fruit is not sought after by human beings, it is eagerly devoured by birds. The bark is a remarkable tonic. I have only noticed the tree in the south-eastern part of the State. The choke cherry, Prunus Virginica^ is a tall shrub with greyish bark, oval, oblong, or obovate and ab¬ ruptly pointed thin leaves, very slender, sharp saw- toothed, and from two to three inches long. The flowers are in a short close cluster. The fruit ripens in summer, and is of a dark red colour, and very astrin¬ gent to the taste, but rather agreeable. Strawberries. Two species and one variety of strawberries, with endless modifications, are common all over Eastern Nebraska. They flourish on the sides of the blufls, and at the edge of timber belts, from which they creep far out on the prairies. Perhaps the commonest strawberry is Fragaria vesca^ which has produced the Alpine, Wood, Perpetual, and many other varieties. Here it is mostly slender, with thin dull leaves, strongly marked by the veins, calyx open or reflexed THE WILD FRUITS OF NEBRASKA. 323 after flowering ; and fruit inclined to be conical or elongated, much like the so-called lady flnger, and fully as large and high scented. The runners often creep several feet. This strawberry varies so much that I have often been unable to distinguish it from the Fragaria Virginiana^ except by one character, its seeds .{ahenes) are always superficial, and seem to stick out of the berry. So abundant is this fruit in some seasons that the ground in its favourite retreats seems absolutely red with it. Once when making a survey of some timber lands in Dakota County, on a sultry July day, and almost exhausted by the heat and from thirst, I unexpectedly came to a patch of these berries in an opening in the woods. Never before was I so grateful for fruit, and fruit that was delicious enough to adorn the finest tables in Christendom. As already intimated, this species is the most variable of all the strawberries. It is found all over Europe and in all the high and on many of the low lands of North America. Its tendency to become everbearing, so strikingly exemplified elsewhere, is also characteristic of it in many places in Nebraska. I have noticed localities where it produced a succession of ripe berries for two months. The other species common to this State is Fragaria Virginiana. It is the original of the American scarlet and innumerable other varieties. It can be distin¬ guished from the former by the seeds [ahenes) being sunk in the flesh of the berry. Its runners are seldom over a foot long. Its flowers however are staminate, that is, its male and female organs are on different 324 nebeaska. plants. There is an insensible gradation between this species and the variety lUinoiensis of Gray, which is coarser and larger, and the hairs which are scattered over it, especially on the flower stock, are rougher. The strawberries of Nebraska need to be thoroughly examined. Certainly where there is such a tendency shown to varieties and improvement, some of the most promising, under the skilful treatment of the gardener, would become permanent additions to our list of desirable small fruits. Fig. 2, on the plate facing this page, is a sample of this species copied from nature. Easpbereies are represented in Nebraska by three species. A black raspberry, a variety of Ruhus occidentalism is common in every county. It is a profuse bearer, and the fruit is nearly a third larger than the American blackcap. It is most abundant along streams and in woodlands and their borders. Where it is cultivated the canes make a much stronger growth than in their native wilds, though even there some varieties seem equal to any produced in gardens. A dwarf raspberry, Ruhus trifloruSm and the wild red, Ruhus strigosusm were sent to me in flower during the past season from the western part of the State, previous to which I was not aware that they existed within our borders. They have not yet been found in the eastern part of the State. Blackberries. Of these only one species has yet been found in the State. This is the high blackberry, Ruhus villosus. It is rather abundant along some of the streams and 1. HiíiL E. Bailey delin. WILD FDUITS OF NEBRASKA. (1) Prumis Americana. (2) Fragaria Virginiana (,\ Common Wild Strawbeuuv. the wild feuits of nebraska. 325 timber belts in the south-eastern part of the State. Wherever this wild variety is transplanted into gardens and cultivated, it bears large quantities of delicious fruit. Hawthorns. Though unimportant as fruits the hawthorns should not be overlooked by the amateur horticulturist. The blackthorn, Cratœgus tormentosa^ and its variety malis^ are most abundant. It is a shrub or small tree from six to twenty-five feet in height. The leaves are oval, abrupt at the base, margins sharply saw-toothed or cut into many small lobes, and downy beneath, especially when young. The flowers are compacted into clusters {corymbs) of from six to thirty flowerlets in a bunch. The fruit is scarlet or orange, from two-thirds to three- fourths of an inch long and rather pleasant to the taste. The fruit of the variety malis is dull red and more insipid. Though not esteemed by man, the fruit is eagerly sought after by prairie chickens and quail. I have seen hundreds of these wild fowl at one time feasting on this fi'uit, which they seemed to prefer in its season to all other food. The June Berry. This fruit is abundant in some portions of Nebraska. It is a small tree or shrub, from ten to thirty-five feet in height. There are apparently three or four species, but they run so much into each other, that botanists as yet treat them as one species with many varieties. It. is known as Amelanchier Canadensis. The variety most common here is Alinifolia.^ with roundish, blunt 326 nebraska. leaves, which are toothed towards the summit. The flowers which are white are produced in long loose clusters {racemes). Berry purplish, sweet, and gene¬ rally deliciously-flavoured. This berry has always been a favorité with the Indians. They dry and mix it with pemican (jpreserved meats)., to which it gives a delicious flavour. Nothing is supposed to give more daintiness to an Indian feast than June berries boiled in the broth of fat meat. Children of every age equal the Indians in their admiration and enjoyment of June berries. It would "pay" [to cultivate them for " the little ones" alone. Wild Currants and Gooseberries. There are four species of gooseberries growing wild in the State. One of these, a " Smooth Wild Goose¬ berry " {Ribes hirtellum)., has smooth stems, short thorns, or none, and smooth, small, purple, and sweet berries. It is not very abundant. Another " Smooth Wild Gooseberry " {R. rotundifolium)., in its many varieties, is met with constantly, especially in the timber and along our streams, and is a most abundant bearer. The leaves are nearly smooth, roundish, three to five lobed and truncate at the base; stems slender and from one to three flowered. It grows from two to four feet high, the stems having whitish bark. One variety of this species bears a berry, long, large, and green. Another variety, which grows from three to four feet high, sets its canes thickly, and they are covered with slim thorns of a brownish, purplish colour. The fruit is as large as a Houghton, sometimes larger, somewhat THE WILD FRUITS OF NEBRASKA. 327 veined, and of a clear, glossy, transparent colour, oval or round, and sometimes slightly flattened at the ends, and with a rich vinous flavour. I have found a few specimens three-fourths of an inch in diameter when ripe, and never observed them to be affected with mil¬ dew. So abundant are they that the Indians often pick many bushels per day for weeks in succession and carry them to the various markets. They bear trans¬ portation well. Many citizens are now well supplied with these berries from stocks transplanted from the woods into their own grounds. I have myself planted the Houghton in a row alongside of this wild variety, and the latter proved superior in productiveness and hardiness to the former. The Swamp Gooseberry {B. lacustre)^ whose young stems are clothed with bristly prickles, and small weak thorns, and whose leaves are heart-shaped, and from three to five parted, and the lobes cut, and whose fruit is bristly, small, and disagreeable, is unimportant. Even birds generally give it a wide berth. The "Wild Gooseberry" (i?, cynoshati)^ with pubescent leaves, slender peduncles and spines, and a large berry armed with long bur-hke prickles, is no better than the last. In a few localities it is quite abundant. Two species of wild currants abound. The " Wild Black Currant" {B, floridum) is remarkable for its large flowers. The leaves are from five to seven- lobed, doubly saw-toothed, and generally sprinkled with resinous dots, slightly heart shaped, and the racemes are downy, drooping; the fruit is round-ovoid, black and smooth, and in smell and flavour much like the black 328 nebraska. currant of the gardens. The Buflfalo or Missouri cur¬ rant also abounds in many places. It is remarkable for the spicy fragrance of its yellow blossoms, and is often cultivated for ornament. Its fruit is of little or no value. Grapes. Two species of grapes, with a great number of hybrids and varieties, abound in Nebraska. It is hard to realize without seeing it, with what luxuriance the vine grows in this State. Some of the timber belts are almost im¬ passable from the number and length of the vines, which form a network from tree to tree. Straggling vines are sometimes found far out on the prairies. Where deprived of any other support they creep along the ground and over weeds and grass. The Summer Grape {Vitis œstivalis) can generally be recognized by the downy character of its young leaves, which are smooth when old. They are simple, rounded, heart- shaped, and often variously lobed. The panicles are compound, long, and slender. The berries are small, from one-third to one-fourth of an inch in diameter ; colour black with a bloom, ripe in September and October. The Frost Grape (F. cordifolia) has thin leaves, heart shaped, sharp pointed, sharply and coarsely toothed, and sometimes obscurely three-lobed. The bunch is compound, large, and loose. The berries are small, about one-fourth of an inch broad, and blue or black with a bloom, very acerb, and ripening after frost. Very late in autumn, when dead ripe, these grapes become comparatively sweet. As already intimated there are many forms that cannot well be classified THE WILD FRUITS OF NEBRASKA. 329 with either of these species. Some appear to be hybrids, and some approach one or the other more closely, but varying much from them. In the opinion of some of our best botanists a thorough re-examination and a new classification of these wild grapes is needed. There is as much difierence in flavour and quality as there is in form. Future investigation and culture will no doubt produce from these wild gi'apes varieties that will be eminently worthy of cultivation. Their superior hardi¬ ness, the ease with which they can be grown, their early bearing, and the comparatively fine flavour of Fig. 51. A variety of the Vitis Mstivalis or Summer Grape, many of them, entitle them to more attention than they have yet received. Figure 9, Plate YII. is a bunch of wild grapes from a variety of the Summer Grape (F. œstivalis). It approaches the Clinton grape in form and size. A great deal of wine has been manufactured from these grapes in some portions of the State. The wine has a fine body, is rather dark, and in a year or two is much like the Oporto in flavour and colour. It is 330 nebraska. sometimes shipped to other States to mix with wines manufactured from cultivated grapes to give them body and colour. The Mulberry. Along the bluffs of the Missouri and some of its tri¬ butaries the Eed Mulberry {Morus rubra) abounds. Sometimes it is a mere shrub, and sometimes it reaches the dimensions of a small tree. Though called the red mulberry, its fruit in Nebraska is as often of a blackish colour, as red or brown. Its sweetish black¬ berry-like fruit is eagerly sought after by many of the settlers, and seems to be one of the special delights of prairie chickens, quail, wild turkeys, and other birds. At least I have often found them feasting on this fruit. This tree or shrub is easily cultivated, and is often transplanted for ornament and for its fruit into culti¬ vated grounds. The Buffalo Berry. The Buffalo Berry {Shepherdia argéntea) is - found on the banks of the Missouri, the Niobrara, the Platte, the Republican rivers, and many of their tributaries. Though not yet seen in cultivation it deserves a place in every fruit garden. It varies from the habit of a shrub to that of a small tree. The leaves are oblong, silvery white, the branches rusty white, and sometimes quite thorny, with numerous thorn-like limbs. The flowers are small, yellow, dioecious, the sterile ones with a four-parted calyx, and eight stamens. The fertile flowers have a calyx, shaped like an urn, which encloses the ovary, that becomes the berry-hke fruit. E. Eailcy delin. WILD FDUITS OF NE BF ASK A. Shtpherdia Arg enlia (The Bh iweo Byr,n\ THE WILD FRUITS OF NEBRASKA. 331 The fruit is roundish, varying in colour from a dull red to a scarlet, slightly, but only slightly acid, and until quite ripe, somewhat astringent, though agreeable. It is an enormous bearer, the fruit being produced in very compact masses in the arils of the branches. The fruit ripens in early autumn, and if left undisturbed hangs until winter. The plant is very hardy, and can be grown in any good soil. The only drawback to the cul¬ tivation of this fruit is that it is dioecious, and one of each sex must be planted to obtain fruit, though if many be planted in a row or a cluster, one staminate or male tree will be enough to fertilize seven or eight pistillate plants. It is one of the easiest of all fruits to propagate. After the berries are gathered and the seeds removed from the pulp they can be planted at once or kept in sand until spring. They ought to be sowed in drills and covered about two inches deep. At one year old they should be transplanted into ordi¬ nary [nursery rows, about four feet apart. In three years from the seed they will bloom, when they can be examined, and labels attached to the staminate plants, after which, for convenience sake, each kind had better be placed in a row by itself. Wherever this berry becomes known it is at once a favourite, and being so hardy and easily propagated it soon could supply the settler with an abundance of delicious berries. Among the purposes for which it is used is the manufacture of jelly, of which it produces an article that for richness of flavour is surpassed by no other fruit. The plate facing page 330 shows a branch with fruit. 332 nebraska. The Elderberry. Many of the emigrants from the eastern States are glad to find an old favourite, the Elderberry, Samhucus Canadensis^ among the wild fruits of Nebraska. Though the shrub which produces this berry has a rather rank smell, especially when bruised, and its fruit is seldom eaten in a raw state, yet the berries are really so delicious, when prepared with skill, that wherever they abound they are eagerly gathered, and dried for future use, or manufactured at once into various kinds of jellies or sauce. A good article of wine is frequently made from them. The stems are half woody, from five to ten feet high ; leaves pennate ; leaflets from seven to eleven, oblong, the lower often three parted ; the flowers are small and white, in compound clusters or cyones ; fruit, black purple. It grows abundantly all over eastern Nebraska. The Pap aw. The Papaw, Asimina triloba^ is one of the four North American representatives of a large tropical family, which is generally aromatic. Over three hundred species grow in the two tropical hemispheres. Its yellow fruit is from two to three inches long, is pulpy, with many flat seeds, fragrant, and ripe in October. The tree is from ten to twenty feet high. The leaves are thin, obovate, lanceolate, and pointed. The flowers are duU purple ; the petals are veiny, round-ovate, and the outer ones from three to four times as long as the calyx. The flowers appear with the leaves, and sometimes precede them. It is only the wild fkuits of nebraska. 333 found in the south-eastern part of the State, and though of no practical value, botanically it is of much in¬ terest. Nuts. Though nuts are not always classed with fruits it seems proper in this place to mention the few that abound in Nebraska. First in the list is the nut of the noble Black Walnut, Juglans nigra. A few years ago this tree was abundant over eastern Nebraska. So valuable, however, is the wood, and so high the price it brings in market, that in many places where great numbers formerly existed it is becoming quite rare. Fortunately, this tree is so hardy and is so easily grown from the seed, that great numbers are started in the artificial groves that are planted all over the settled portions of the State. The nuts are almost as much of a favourite with adults as with children ; and wherever the trees remain they should be care¬ fully preserved to supply the means for future groves, and for the intrinsic value of their fruit. In a few places along the Missouri the Shell-bark Hickory, Carya alba., abounds. Though not in suf¬ ficient quantities to supply the markets with hickory nuts, it is worthy of cultivation for its timber, which is valuable for many purposes besides fuel. When once grown, groves of hickory will also supply an almost unfailing harvest of nuts. The Hazel Nut, Corylus Americanus., is widely distri¬ buted over the State. It grows here from four to seven feet high. The nuts have been as much of a favourite with the Indians as they are now with the children of the white settlers. 334 nebraska. The General Botany of Nebraska. The wild fruits are themselves a proof of the richness of the flora of this State. The writer has collected two thousand and thirty-four species of native plants, of which sixteen hundred and seventy-one are flowering, and the balance non-flowering species. The charac¬ teristic flora of the State is its grasses and sedges, both of which cover the land wherever timber does not monopolize the ground. One hundred and forty-nine species of wild grasses, many of them of the richest character, supply food in almost unlimited quantities to herds of cattle and sheep, in winter and summer, as they did to countless thousands of buflalo, deer, elk, and antelope before the advent of the white man. Some of the grasses, like the buflalo grass, Buchloe dactyloides^ cures naturally on the stock, and thus supplies food for winter use without cutting. As the buflalo grass disappears before advancing civilization, species even more valuable (like Andropogon furcatus^ A. scoparius^ and Sorghum nutans) take its place. Un¬ like the buflalo grass, these grow so high that they can readily be mowed and stacked for winter use. The latter. Sorghum nutans^ growing from three to five feet high, is especially a noble grass, and eminently worthy of cultivation. It is easily recognized by its terminal panicle of brownish spikelets, which is strikingly like the cultivated sorghum, and like the latter it contains a large amount of saccharine matter in its juices. There are also one hundred and fifty species of sedges growing in the State, on many of which the cattle will browse in THE WILD FRUITS OF NEBRASKA. 335 an emergency, though they do not compare with the grasses in real value. The composite family is represented by two hundred and forty-four species and variefies ; and the pulse family, to which the bean and pea belong, by one hundred and nine different forms. One of these, the Wild Ground Plum {Astragalus caryocarpus) of the early travellers across the plains, is no mean substi¬ tute for peas when prepared in the same way. Its beautiful violet-purple flowers, in a short raceme, ap¬ pearing in early spring, alone entitles it to cultivation. It is a prolific bearer of ovoid globular fruit, which has been often used for the table in the absence of the cultivated pea. There are at least fifty species of native forest trees growing in the State, the largest families being the oaks and the willows, of each of which there are eleven species and one variety. There are also four species of elm, three of maple, one walnut, and four hickories, and a hackeberry and a honey locust. The evergreens are represented by three species of cedar, namely, the White Cedar, Cupressus tliyoides^ the common Juniper, Juniperus communis^ and the Red Cedar, C. Virginiani^ by one pine, Pinus ponderosa^ and two spruces, Ahies Englemanni^ and A. Douglasii. But the botany of no region is complete without an examination into its fiowerless plants. Among these in Nebraska there are thirty-five species of ferns ; one hundred and thirty-four species of mosses ; twenty-five species of hepaticsB ; sixty-two species of lichens ; and ninety-one species of fresh-water algae. CHAPTER XXY. TIMBEE AND FUEL. Prairie and forest.—Cultivated trees.—Profits of tree culture not easily ascertained.—Some estimates.—Fabulous wealth in Spain.—¿622,000 from an acre.—But timber will pay.—Best localities.—Cottonwood.—How to plant a hill.—Views of a local authority.—" Timbee Culture Act."— 160 acres given if 40 are cultivated.—No taxes for thirteen years.— Eich or poor alike.—Official Construction.—Maiden foresters.—What work must be done.—Death of donee.—Homestead settlers.—Title.— Suggestions.—Fuel.—Maize a cheap fuel.— "Corn-cobs."—Straw.— Present resources. N few instances is there any room for choice between a heavily wooded and a prairie country, for the advantages of the latter are most decidedly predominant ; yet few things add so much to the value of a prairie farm as a moderate acreage of timber. Timber is much more in request in a new country than in an old one, and it has often to be brought into a new prairie State from a long distance, at great expense of carriage. Pine lumber, for instance, may be sent from Canada to England at a cheaper average freightage than that at which it can be imported into Western Nebraska from TIMBER AND FUEL. 337 the great pineries of the United States. Yet experi¬ ment has abundantly proved that a great variety of trees, excellent for timber, grow with very exceptional rapidity when cultivated in the rich soil of the prairie States. I have seen many trees of from one to ten years' growth whose dimensions I would scarcely dare present, from a fear that my readers would only believe their own eyesight in cases which would appear to them so very extraordinary. But all sensible people will believe me when I say that in cultivating trees one can insure any desirable form—an enormous advantage in itself; and that if he has a soil sufficiently rich in the proper ingredients, and by suitable tillage keeps it in a condition for the rootlets to take up these ingredients to the best advantage, he can be certain of a growth far surpassing in rapidity that obtained under the ordinary hard conditions of nature. I find it impossible to give perfectly trustworthy Dr. and Cr. accounts showing the exact cost and value of an acre of timber of any kind when properly planted and taken care of in suitable soil. The same amount and quality of timber, for example, will be worth double as much in one locality as in another a very short distance off, the question of proximity to the railway being of vital importance in such a case ; and, even when this point has been well considered, in com¬ mencing the cultivation of timber one must weigh probabilities for a dozen years ahead at least. In the numerous estimates before me, I think that these con¬ siderations have been very much neglected ; one gives $728, or above £130, as the value of an acre of properly z- 338 NEBRASKA. cultivated cottonwood at. the end of fifteen years, and another makes its value |902 at the end of twelve years. One gentleman says that pine and larch, as demonstrated in his grounds, attain the height of thirty feet to thirty-five feet in twelve years. He would plant three feet apart, placing pines at intervals of twelve feet, and filling the other spaces with larches. This would be a proportion of one pine to fifteen larches, and would give 4,840 trees to the acre. He would cut out all of the larches in the course of thirty years, leaving the pines. He estimates that he would have on one acre :— , In 7 years 2,400 larches, worth 5 cents, each, for grape stakes $120 ,, 7 years more 1,200 larches, to make 4,000 fence posts, at 25 cents each ........ 1,000 ,, 7 years more 600 larches, worth $3 each .... 1,800 ,, 9 years more, 300 larches, worth $20 each . . . 6,000 Total for the larches .... $89,000 leaving on the ground 300 pines, worth at that time $20 each, or $30 each in ten years more, or $50 each at the end of fifty years from time of planting. This gentleman evidently counts upon all his trees being perfect, and upon the very thickly planted ones growing as rapidly as they do under the most favour¬ able circumstances, as well as upon the permanence of present values. 1 have seen many vigorous stalks of wheat from one seed ; its yield was, of course, enormous. Now if I took this as a fair sample kernel of wheat, estimated the number of kernels sown upon an acre, and their aggregate produce by that of this one, my estimate would be considered by some men a trifie TIMBER AND FUEL. 339 extravagant; and if with such an estimated yield I calculated on present prices, I should certainly be a fit subject for an insane asylum. Another Dr. and Cr. estimate is before me, in which the net profit on 160 acres of timber cultivated for twelve years is put down at about £22,000. Of this kind, vague, indefinite, and extravagant, are all the data that I have been able to obtain on the subject of timber cultivation. I have, however, seen enough of timber planting to know that there is an enormous difference, both in quantity and quality, between culti¬ vated and native timber ; and I can safely say that in suitable localities a moderately large acreage of timber will pay better than any other crop—apples, grapes, and other fruit, only excepted. Generally speaking, the localities in Nebraska best adapted for timber are, {a) all bottom lands in the eastern half of the State ; ip) ravines, upland hollows, and basins in the eastern half of the State, and all bottoms very near the level of permanent water in the western half ; (c) uplands generally in the eastern half, and bottom lands generally in the western half of the State. But no hard and fast line can -be drawn, and the highest uplands near the Missouri will be found well adapted, while many bottom lands in the far western portions of the State will scarcely grow timber at present, without irrigation of the young trees until their roots are able to strike into the ground to the limits of per¬ manent moisture. With very little care cottonwood will grow almost anywhere if fires are only kept away. I have seen it 340 NEBRASKA. in the most unpromising situations in the sand hills, where, owing to the sterility or shifting character of the surface, there was not a sufficiency of vegetation to maintain the prairie fire, which is its most deadly enemy, and it may well be argued from the presence of trees under such circumstances that were it not for the fires that sweep across the plains, all of the eastern and much of the western portion of Nebraska would be covered with timber. But hardy as is the cotton- wood it will well repay a reasonable amount of care and attention bestowed in its cultivation. I have seen groves where ten per cent, of the young trees were dead for lack of moisture, and it stands to reason that their growth must be slow if they are planted on the crests of hills and the land is left in that condition which will help it best to throw off the rain rather than to absorb and retain it. When it is desired to grow a plantation on the crest of an elevation or on a steep declivity it is important that the ground should receive more than usual care in its preparation, and that it should be left as much as possible in ridges so disposed as to prevent washing and induce the rain to soak into the ground, while the trees themselves should be deeply set in soil well broken to a corresponding depth. This observation is of course intended to apply only to lacustrine sods and such others as are capable of draining themselves by filtration. Hedge-rows and single rows of trees on boundary lines should also be ploughed and tilled with the same object of preventing washing, and of inducing the moisture to penetrate in abundance to the roots of TIMBER AND FUEL. 341 the plants. If settlers will think of this they will have no difficulty in growing with a thriftiness and rapidity which wül well repay their care, a great variety of trees in almost any situation in nearly the whole eastern half of Nebraska, and also in much of the western half of the State. The following extract from the " Nebraska Farmer," a journal published at Lincoln, with some modifications already indicated, will shortly express on some other important points, and it will at the same time serve as a good sample of that agricultural journalism in the Far West which will have a large part in the instruction and consequent prosperity of the too-often unskilled farmers who settle therein. In planting trees regard must be bad to the end to be served, as well as to other considerations. Timber is needed for protection, for fuel, for the modification of chmate, and for lumber in the not very distant future. There are kinds of timber that serve other valuable purposes. The hick¬ ory, the black walnut, and .the chestnut are not unworthy of cultivation for their fruit. The maple and box élder are not only splendid shade trees, but they furnish the most delicious sugar. The Cottonwood is desirable on account of its rapid growth, in which respect it excels the silver maple and box elder. The oak, hickory, black walnut, box elder, hackberry, and several other species afford excellent fuel. The black walnut, locust, and elm make good fence posts, and we presume that the people will continue to use fence-posts, notwith¬ standing the herd laws. It may be regarded, by some people, as a long look into the future to say that timber should now be planted for building purposes. But what is the next generation to do if this generation strip the forests of their grand growths for lumber, and do nothing at all to replace them with something that will make lumber when it is grown, and if the treeless prairies be not utilized for the same purpose ? For some kinds of timber the cottonwood answers a good purpose, and 342 NEBRASKA. it has the advantage of rapid growth. A fifteen year old cotton wood is often fit for the sawmill. The black walnut is a most valuable tree for prairie culture. In the first place, its long tap root goes down so far after its food that the dry seasons will afiect it less than many other trees. Then, again, its bark is not an agreeable morsel to the gopher below ground, nor to any animal above ground, and it escapes the teeth of aU rodents and aU her¬ bivorous animals. The black walnut will always be in demand for lumber, and we believe that farmers ought to engage more largely in its culture. At present they plant a single row where they ought to plant acres. If you will cultivate the black walnut, select good, clean land, which has been cultivated and is mellow. Plow furrows four feet apart, and as straight as you can. Drop the seed two feet apart in the furrow. Do this in the fall. When the lot is planted cover with a harrow. This is the cheapest plan, and there is probably no better. The nut must have the benefit of the winter frosts. Why plant so close?—Because this is Nature's own plan. The ground must be shaded to have any kind of timber do its best ; and the bodies of the trees must be shaded to do their best. Trees planted close together do not put out so many lateral branches, but shoot upward, making a longer upright growth, and producing cleaner and straighter bodies. After two or three years they wiU furnish poles, nnd when they acquire age they are fine, clean, straight timber. It will be seen that the black walnut is one of the easiest trees to start. It is not more trouble to plant than an equal field of potatoes—perhaps not as much ; for some people will persist in cutting their potatoes before planting. The hickory, oak, and chestnut require full planting also, and ought to be more largely cultivated. The soft maple ripens its seed early in June, and it should be gathered and immediately planted in a protected situation. It wiU make a fine growth the same season. But the bleak prairie winds are hard on the tender twigs, twisting off the first leaves and killing the trees before they have attained more than two or three inches of growth. Gathered in the fall or early spring, and replanted, they do well. Our answer to our correspondent is : First—^For immediate shade and protection pui'poses, plant the cotton- wood of one year's growth. TIMBER AND FUEL. 343 Secondly—For future use, for fuel and lumber, plant hickory, white oak, black walnut, white ash, maple, etc. Thirdly—For road-side fences plant the Osage orange, and the willow ; but if you plant the willow use stakes four or six feet long, and set them deep, say two feet deep, as early in the spring as you can. The only objection we know of to the willow is its sprawling habit of growth. A very large portion of Nebraska suitable for the purpose is still open to entries under the " Timber Culture Act," which gives under most liberal conditions 160 acres, or one-fourth of any government section of untimbered land, to a person who will cultivate timber on one-fourth of the land so given him. The perfect title is not given for eight years, and the settler need not apply for it till near the end of five years more, and during this time the gift is. not hable for any debts or taxes. It is not necessary for the donee to reside upon the land, nor is there any hmitation as to his wealth or condition, or his having already had the benefit of either or both the homestead and pre-emption laws of the United States. Under this law further advantages are also given to homestead settlers. The application of the law is entrusted firstly to the United States Land Office at Washington, and secondly through it to the registers and receivers of the Land Office in the various regions more or less open for settlement. These officers of the Government will supply applicants with forms and every information necessary for a full compliance, both with the letter of the law, and the simple 344 NEBE ASK A. regulations under which it is carried out by the Govern¬ ment. To a plain man the official construction of a law is- often of more importance than the text of the law itself, and I therefore give the official construction of this law and the regulations made in accordance therewith. The privilege of entry under this act is confined to persons of either sex, who are heads of families, or over twenty-one years of age, and who are citizens of the United States, or have declared their intention to become such ; The affidavit required on making an entry under this act may be made before you, or either of you, or before some officer authorfeed to administer oaths in your district, who is required by law to use an official seal ; Not more than one quarter of any one section can be entered under this act; The privilege of making more than one entry thereunder is confined to such parties as shall enter, in each and every instance, a fractional sub¬ division of less than 40 acres, and that the aggregate area of such entries shall not exceed 160 acres ; The ratio of area required to be broken, planted, &c., is, in all cases initiated under the first section of this act, one-fourth of the land embraced in the entry; One-fourth part of the area required to be devoted to timber must be broken within one year from date of entry ; one-fourth part more within two years from date of entry; and the remaining one-half within three years from date of entry ; One-fourth part of the area required to be devoted to timber must be planted within two years from date of entry ; one-fourth part more within three years from date of entry; and the remaining one-half within four years from date of entry; The trees are required to be not more than twelve feet apart each way, and the same are required to be protected, cultivated, and kept in a healthy growing condition for eight years next succeeding the date of entry ; If, at the expiration of the said eight years, or at any time within five years thereafter, the person making the entry, or, if he or she be dead, his or her heirs or legal representatives, shall prove by two credible witnesses TIMBER AND FUEL. 345 the fact of such planting, cultivation, ) If they cannot afford to do this, they should plant them in rows, twelve feet apart, with one tree in every four feet in each row, and that for some years the interme¬ diate space between the rows should be cultivated in some suitable crops. (c) That if the ground be uneven, and especially if there be any danger of its being too dry, they should, instead of straight rows, adopt curvilinear ones, conforming to the configuration or elevation of the ground, taking care, however, that at no part of the curves should the trees be more than twelve feet apart, and adopting reasonable precautions to retain on the latid as much as possible of the rain that falls upon it. Cottonwoods planted four feet apart each way, will bear much thinning for fuel at the end of two years growth, and this process may be continued without 1 The omissions marked thus interest to the settler. are office details of no special 348 NEBRASKA. interruption for eight or ten years, till at the end of that time the trees stand twelve feet apart. Three years time, at all events, should provide any prudent settler with abundance of fuel, and with small poles for temporary fencing, if necessary, but in the mean time some substitute for wood must generally be found. Within reasonable distance of the railways, this is not difficult, as the railway companies have an interest in transporting it at a very low price, to encourage settlement, and when one brings a load of grain even fifteen or twenty miles to market, it will cost him fittle in wear and tear and trouble to take back half a load of coal. There is a sentimental objection to using Indian corn as fuel, but it makes a hot and lasting fire, and it can certainly be produced almost anywhere in this region at an average net expense of less than 3^c?. per bushel in the ear (two bushels in the ear making one of shelled corn). It needs no preparation for the fire, and I think that, at any considerable distance from the railway, with one exception, most settlers will find it for four or five years their most economical fuel. I do not know that any suitable person has made exhaustive experiments on its comparative value as fuel; but I am decidedly of the opinion that it would be cheaper on many farmsteads in Nebraska than coal and coke have recently been in London. " Corn-cobs" are the exception alluded to. Farmers who shell their maize before marketing it, and those feeding it to cattle, will find in the cobs, free of cost, a fuel very tolerable in any but the severest weather, when it would have to TIMBER AND FUEL. 349 be supplemented or superseded by something more substantial—unless, indeed, one had a stove specially adapted for its consumption, an adaptation by no means difficult, as it requires merely an unusually large fire chamber, with such efficient control of the draught as will prevent too rapid consumption. Straw is now being successfully applied as fuel for steam-engines. It is treated as worthless on the prairie, but it will probably be utilized in this manner to a considerable extent. Whether it can* be utilized as a family fuel, is a question well worth the considera¬ tion of inventive Americans. But whatever the answer to this question, I have no doubt whatever, that the butts of maize stalks, which are invariably wasted, could be used for this purpose. In the meantime, however, the fuels practically available are wood, coal, and maize. CHAPTER XXVI. ÍENCfeS. Little by little.—"Worm fences.—Post and rail.—" Corduroy."—Board fences.—Wire fences.—Hedges.—Hedge plants.—Pences may be dis¬ pensed with in Nebraska.—But they are desirable.—Sod fence.—^How to make it cheaply.—Estimate.—Its advantages.—Cultivation of the denuded ground.—An example in detail.—It gives efficient cultivation of crops in the first year.—Variety also, and consequently safe returns. R AC TIC ALLY, not one in twenty of the new settlers on a virgin prairie soil has the means of enclosing his whole farm, nor has he considered the cost in money and labour that will eventually be required for that purpose. He generally fences by little and little, in the same way that he subdues the soil, and his fences are often of the oddest as well as the rudest possible description. The actual ^labour and expense of dealing with his farm in this way is two or three times greater than a sufficient outlay would have been at first, and he often suffers much from the depredation of his own or other people'^ stock; but, as he starts without adequate capital, he must necessarily bear these evils as best he can. FENCES. 351 In a well-wooded new country the cheapest of all fences is the worm or zigzag rail fence. The rails, being cut along the Hne of the fence, require no trans¬ portation; they require no naihng, hole-digging, &c.— nothing but simple piling with overlapping ends, and a couple of stakes to support the topmost rail, or rider, as it is called. Fourteen rails will make a rod of very good fence, and under favourable circumstances these can be cut and placed in position for about one shilling, making the cost for a field of 160 acres about £32. But the rails are very bulky, and if they have to be carried any great distance it adds very much to the labour, so that a farmer with plenty of woodland gradually finds his Vorm fences more and more ex¬ pensive as his clearings increase in size, and his supply of timber becomes more and more distant fi'om the place where it is wanted as a fence. Indiana is a well-wooded and comparatively a new State, but the cost of first-class worm fences there is now on the average at least six times the above estimate of Is. per rod. The worm fence is very unsightly, and as cultivation progresses it becomes in the end more expensive than others of neater appearance. But it still predominates in most of the States, and even in the prairie State of Illinois it comprises 43 per cent, of the whole. " Post- and-rail " fence, another very prominent variety, requires more labour and less timber than the worm fence, and it is practically less expensive in most of the older States. I have seen " post-and-pole " or " corduroy " fence to a considerable extent in prairie regions. The 352 NEBRASKA. poles are taken from young plantations of a few years* growth, cut to the required length, and flattened at the ends for nailing. One end of a panel goes outside of one post, and the other end goes inside the next, so that the poles of the several panels do not interfere with each other. Board fences appear destined to contest the final supremacy in all places free from surface stones, with the hedges which are now becoming prominent in some of the prairie States. Mud walls, Sf ft. to 4 ft. high, are used in some places for fences, and dry ditches in some other cases. Wire fences of five strands, 8 in. asunder, on posts 8 ft. apart, with a stay midway, are sometimes used, and the present low price of iron will probably make them increasingly popular. Besides these, there are some ingenious patent fences used to a very limited extent, and other very inferior makeshifts which I need not describe. The Osage orange is the popular hedge plant, and it forms a large percentage of the field inclosures in several of the Western States. Locust, bitter willows, Cottonwood, box elders, and many other plants have been used in Nebraska, and as far as my observations go the willows have proved the most uniformly suc¬ cessful. The one great disadvantage of the hedge lies in the fact that it is useless for some years, during which time it needs protection for itself. But it is very important in its probable modifying effect upon the climate of the prairie States. In due time it not merely protects a particular field from the wind FENCES. 353 to a great extent, but tbe frequent recurrence of the hedge in its path will cause such friction as mate¬ rially to abate the force of the general current. It is next in importance to the cultivation of timber. The latter should be planted in belts, transverse to the pre¬ vailing direction of the wind, in every prairie State, at frequent intervals. This is a matter of so much im¬ portance that it should be an affair of the State Govern¬ ment. A gale from the Arctic regions has little impe¬ diment in its rapid course from north to south, while the general direction of the mountains and valleys rather favours it than otherwise. Its force could be effectually broken by these narrow evergreen belts, and very rapid variations in the temperature would then be of comparatively rare occurrence. It also makes a vast difference in the actual figures of the two extremes, if the Arctic current and the hot wind from the opposite direction have been so impeded as to travel but ten miles an hour instead, of thirty or forty. In many parts of Nebraska no farm fences are used, there being a herd law under which all cattle must be properly guarded at the expense of their owner. Wherever a similar system has been tried, it seems to be regarded with general and growing satisfaction, and there is a strong tendency to such a system in some of the older States. Capital is thus relieved from unpro¬ fitable investment, labour is much diminished, and the new settler especially is enabled to devote his attention more e:î^clusively to the directly productive labours of his farm. Yet as the land becomes more generally cultivated some inclosures become more and more A A 354 NEBRASKA. desirable, and almost every thrifty settler obtains them with more or less promptitude. Board fences, wire fences, or compounds of the two, may be made efficiently at a cost of from $1*10 to |1*65 (4s. to 6s.) per rod, and when they have served the purpose of protecting a growing hedge in one place, they may be made equally efficient elsewhere at less than half of the original cost. But as a temporary fence I am decidedly in favour of sod, which may be made almost without cost. The modus operandi is very simple. 1. Set off a land say twenty feet wide all round the field. 2. Fix the revolving coulters of three or four ploughs three feet apart on a cross beam mounted on short runners or shoes, and let the coulters project from three to four inches below the level of the shoes. If the ground is a little uneven the coulters should pro¬ ject further than otherwise. The beam should be weighted sufficiently to drive the coulters into the ground and run the implement on the shoes, while by pressing on a pair of handles it may be easily tilted over backwards so far that the coulters will be thrown out of the ground. This rude machine being drawn across the land set out will mark or cut the turf at intervals of three feet, and by pressing on the handles and throwing out the coulters as the margin of the land is reached, it may be very readily turned round. 3. A wide breaking plough should be used, a 15-inch one will probably be the best, and with this a furrow slice 3 in. thick should be thrown into the centre of the land, and another furrow slice from the opposite side should be thrown on the top of FENCES. 355 the first. This makes the foundation of the fence 15 in. wide and 9 in. high without any hand labour. The rest of the land is ploughed into nine furrow slices, gradually diminishing from the full width of the plough to seven or eight inches for the outside ones. From the previous cross-cutting with the coulter implement, these furrow slices fall in rectangular blocks, each 3 ft. long and convenient for handling. 4. Two men with manure forks throw the oblong blocks of turf on top of the foundation already laid. The outer row of turfs lies but 8 ft. liin. from the base of the wall; this has to be thrown 5 ft. high, but it is conveniently only about half as heavy as the turfs first moved. The result is a turf wall 5 ft. 1 in. high, 1 ft. 3 in. wide at the bottom, and Sin. wide at the top, a wall which will turn either cattle or sheep unless there is a decided temptation for them to break over. Turfs placed in this position will decay very slowly. I would recommend that all or nearly all of those placed by hand should be right side up, as this wiU help to prevent washing and will allow more or less vegetation from the sides. Estimate for sod fence as above described to inclose one square mile. 10 acres of sod cutting with coulter implement at $1 . . $10"00 ] 0 acres breaking at $3 . . . . . . .30*00 Piling turfs yards per lineal rod, at 6 cents per yard, or 1,280 rods at 15 cents ....... 192*00 Total cost about ¿642, or .... ^232*00 This is 21.L cents or M. per lineal rod, or Is. 6c?. per acre for the whole inclosure. Practically 4 rods for roadway would generally be p,llowed at each corner, making a deduction of 16 rods. 356 NEBRASKA. This fence has the important advantage over most others of being an efficient wind break, and where there is little or no shelter it would well pay for itself in this capacity. If one has the proper implements, or several combining can afford them, the fence may be made more efficient against cattle by ploughing a ditch, say a foot wide and the same depth, on the side whence the danger is likely to arise, and at such a distance that cattle cannot tear down the sods with their horns with¬ out standing with their fore feet in the ditch, a position which they are very unlikely to assume for that purpose. The ground which has thus been stripped of its turf for making the fence should be well ploughed, a hedge planted one side, and a row of trees the other. The ordinary method is to break a strip of ground for a row of trees or for a hedge, and then after letting it he over one year to rot the sod, to set out the plants the next year, but when the sod is used for a fence this is not necessary • a clear year may often be saved, and this is very frequently if not generally worth much more than the whole cost of the sod wall. Let us suppose that four men have each taken 160 acres of land in a given square mile, and that they combine to fence it with sod into forty-acre fields, for this purpose making in common the rude sod-cutter as described, and buying any other special tool that may be necessary to their common end, also doubling up their teams and working alternately for each other when desirable. The amount of fencing required will be 800 rods for each, costing them in time and labour as already estimated $170 each. The four inner fields FENCES. 357 will contain 960 rods of fencing, and they will inclose of land ploughed to obtain the sod 4 acres 87 rods. A 15-in.^ furrow slice may be turned towards the centre of each field, and this may be rolled inwards a second time, adding about 200 square rods to the sur¬ face denuded of sward at a further cost of $3*75. This gives us 5f acres, which may be thoroughly pulverized and put into wheat—less ^ne-third of an acre, the space occupied by rows of hedging at right angles each bisecting the 160 acres—at a cost including seed of $5 per acre. The outer lots are then dealt with. The ploughed ground within them is a little more than 13J acres, to which 3f acres are added at a cost of $11*25, by a wide double furrow as already described. The main division lines of hedging only are carried through these fields this season, occupying one-third of an acre. We have here, therefore, 16fj^ acres available for crops. But as a herd law prevails, and these fences are only intended for shelter for the future, and to save our¬ selves from the trouble of herding our own stock, we can as well have a crop outside the fields as within them. The outside strip is equal to all within the four middle fields, and with the double furrow around ^ I do not recommend 15-in. breaking ploughs unless for work like this, although even 18-in. ones are not uncommon. Xeither would I recommend putting a wheat crop into a thin poor soil stripped of its sward. But where the black soil is 15 in. deep and upwards, this will make little difference with its capabilities till in the course of time the chief virtues of the decaying sod shall have been washed back into the soil whence it was taken. 358 NEBRASKA. it will give US 5f acres. This strip is 11 ft. 10 J in. wide. After thoroughly preparing this soil we plant it with a hedge row 2 ft. from the fence, and on the permanent boundary of the field ; a row of maize 4 ft. from this ; then another row of maize at the same dis¬ tance, and lastly a row of one-year-old cottonwood plants or cuttings ft. from the outer row of maize. This has a margin of 5^ in. of pulverized soil, and also the benefit of the double furrow shce, from which it will derive advantages both in the way of shade and moisture, as also protection fi-om any pos¬ sible harm within twelve inches of the ground from a prairie fire, but from this latter contingency it should receive a further protection by the ploughing of a furrow at the distance of a couple of rods, any inter¬ vening dry grass being burned at a suitable time. It will be seen that two rows of maize are equal to a width of eight feet, and although they are hkely to ear out decidedly better than they would do in the middle of a large field, they may be taken as equal to half a rod in width, or four acres in all. And the strips within the fields if planted entirely in maize will be fully equal to a rod in width in an average field. This will make the practical effect-overrun materially the actual measurement. Besides the ground occupied by hedges and trees, we have thus in the inner fields 5^ acres ploughed, in the outer fields 16^ acres, and four acres outside, or altogether 26^ acres. It has cost Sod fences, with breaking, &e. ...... $680"00 200 rods breaking inner fields ...... 3'75 FENCES. 359 600 „ „ outer ....... fll'25 200 „ „ outside of all . . . . . 3*75 1 fire-break furrow 4 miles ...... 2*00 Ploughing, thoroughly preparing, and planting 2S^ acres, in¬ cluding seed, Cottonwood cuttings, bitter willow cuttings, &c., at ^5 per acre ....... 148'75 Total cost ...... $844'50 Returns same year. 10 acres wheat and barley, 20 bushels per acre, worth 75 cents standing |150."00 2 acres oats net in same manner ...... IS'OO 4 „ potatoes and other roots exclusive of further labour, net in same manner, 100 marketable bushels per acre, at 25 cents lOO'OO 10 acres maize net in same manner ..... IGO'OO i acre garden vegetables for home use .... — $428-00 Amount necessary to balance outlay ..... 416-00 $844-00 No account is here taken of the small potatoes and roots, the garden vegetables, &c. The maize is supposed to yield 40 bushels to the acre, worth for home feeding 40 cents per bushel standing ; as the maize will practically overrun to about 12 acres, the net value for a good season with thorough cultivation might perhaps be put at $200. No account is taken of the maize stalks, which are valuable fodder. No estimate is made of the expense of gates, or of carrying the fences across ravines and running streams, which wiU vary widely with circumstances. The net cost in his own labour to each individual for 800 rods of sod fencing, and for one year's start on miles of hedging and 1 mile of cottonwood trees is $104*12J. There will have been the further advantage of having been able to distribute his labour to a greater extent than otherwise in things imme¬ diately profitable, such as cultivating his maize and 360 NEBRASKA. vegetables, harvesting, &c., and by the variety of crops he will have been able to insure against want, even should the year have proved a very bad one, while with sod corn he would have run great risks with¬ out improving the value of his holding to anything like the same extent. Nor will he have been precluded in this case from breaking any possible amount of prairie either himself or by hired assistance, and dis¬ posing it by the side of his crops so as to be a safe¬ guard against the ravages of prairie insects. It is scarcely necessary to say that the plan may be advantageously modified in many ways to meet varying circuiñstances, as for instance, some would have reason to prefer one large, and several quite small inclosures, one or more perhaps with much heavier walls, some would turn their horses and cattle loose in one or more of the fields the first year, taking care that the hedge rows were the other side of the fence, while others would tether at first, and still others combine with neighbours in herding. CHAPTER XXYIL PASTOKAL MAKVELS. A snow-storm.—A journey on the Umon Pacific.—The " caboose."— The Platte Valley.—Prairie grouse.—A possible hatteau.—A peninsula.— 30,000 cattle.—Messrs. Keith and Barton of North Platte.—Their ex¬ penditure* and profits on cattle and sheep.—Ogallalla.—Roughing it.— A ride,—Antelope.—A knowing horse.—Grazing in the snow.—Kinds of kine and conditions- of cattle.—" Tail hold a good hold."—3,000 in¬ spected.—^Up in the clouds.—Mr. T. Lonergan's estimates.—-Why such profits are possible.—Will they last ?—From Ogallalla to Laramie.— An omen verified.—Sheep in Western Nebraska.—^Wyoming experi¬ ence.—Messrs. Clarke and Co.—Mr. M. E. Post.—<£500 in hand.— £400 for a start.—£1,000.—Risks. N December 5tb, 1873, I arrived in Omaha, Nebraska, in the midst of a snow-storm; and wishing to investigate things under the most unfavourable circumstances, and to give my reports from something more than mere hearsay evidence, I determined to seize this opportunity of seeing for myself how the cattle of the Western plains fare in a snow-storm, when they are obhged to find for themselves their food, and whatever shelter they obtain. Having made my arrangements, I started Westward on 362 NEBEASKA. the 8th, stopped over at Grand Island at night, and the next day continued my journey in the " caboose " of a freight train, for the more leisurely inspection of the country. An American freight train carries men enough to handle it at the several stations; and the caboose answers both as a look-out or guard's van, and as a snuggery for those of the men whose presence is not constantly required elsewhere. On the Union Pacific the freight is supposed to travel about ten miles an hour, a rate of speed that gives ample opportunity for observing the general features of the country through which the train passes. The day's journey was con¬ tinued through the immense valley of the Platte, almost a dead level from four to twenty miles on each side of us, low bluffs in the distance sometimes indicating the verge of the upland on either side. Some of the trees along the banks of the smaller streams which occasion¬ ally relieve the monotony of the scene, were covered with prairie grouse. As practically there is no close season, and with these birds the dread of the sportsman is often less strong than their constitutional objections to taking cold in the feet, a tolerable shot, suitably pro¬ vided, might on this occasion have had a day's sport, or rather a batteau, among them, which would seem quite fabulous to those not fiilly understanding the sporting advantages of a Western snow-storm. I reached North Platte at nightfaU, 291 miles west¬ ward from Omaha. The North and the South Platte effect a junction near this station, inclosing between them a narrow peninsula, which on a line northward of Julesburg, Colorado, nearly 100 miles further west, is PASTORAL MARVELS. 363 less than 30 miles wide. This peninsula, thickly covered with nutritious grasses, is admirably adapted for herding cattle. There were at this time upwards of 30,000 head of cattle on the peninsula, owned by several firms, that unite in guarding the western extremity, the two wide streams being considered sufficient barriers against the straying of the cattle from any other part of the range. Mr. E. C. Keith, of North Platte, informed me that he commenced stock raising in the autumn of 1867 with five American cows ; next autumn put in about 200 American cows. In '69 bought 1,000 head Texas cows, two years old to six ; had American bulls only, all very fair ones. In '70 a partner joined him, and they put in 1,000 more Texas cattle ; in December, '72, they bought 720 head of Texas steers, cows, two-year-olds, and year¬ lings, an average lot; also another lot of 250; in '73 bought 30 Americans and 200 Texans; has now about 200 bulls; in '70 bought a Canadian thoroughbred shorthorn. The total cost from '67 to '73 inclusive wa& under $50,000, besides expense of ranches, herding, &c. ; ranches have cost, interest and all, less than $1,000. Had old railway ties for the hauling and old telegraph poles very cheap, otherwise they would have cost over $2,000. With 200 head employed no extra labour. Had several employés about him, and got a little extra labour out of them in attending to the herd. When he obtained the first 1,000 Texas cows had one extra man,, and another with the second 1,000. Employed the second man because one would not stay at the ranch alone. The men cost $30 to $50 per month, besides 364 NEBRASKA. board. He could not give off-band any very close figures for this expense, as his partner kept the books. He has sold on their feet about 1,000 head, which brought him net about $33,000 He has butchered 1,000 head, mostly cows, which stood him iu net over ......... 30,000 Total Deduct cost of cattle, ranches, &c. . $63,000 . 51,000 A balance of . . . ... $12,000 is left for interest and general expenses. This is scarcely sufficient for these purposes, but it leaves nearly the whole of the present stock as pro¬ fit on the undertaking. He estimates the numbers and value of the stock he was then holding. 1,400 improved calves, at $12 ...... $16,800 1,200 yearhngs, at 18 . 800 two-year-olds, at 25 . 300 three-year-olds, at 30 . 200 bulls, at 50 . 1,300 cows, at 25 . Total value of stock 21,600. 20,000 9,000 10,000 32,500 $109,900 Messrs. Keith and Barton were employing only one herdsman exclusively for their cattle. I met this man in the caboose next day, and, so far as the circumstances were famihar to him, he corroborated substantially Mr. Keith's statement. He estimated the present value of the herd at $18 the head all round, which would make $93,600. Making every allowance, it is very evident that Messrs. Keith and Barton's cattle business has been enormously profitable. Circumstances were, however, extremely favourable to them ; and a man starting in the business now cannot expect that with the same care and attention he "vyill be equally successful. PASTORAL MARVELS. 365 Messrs. Keith and Barton's experience with sheep ha& been exceptional. They first obtained 200 in 1870, at $1*25 each, of which they butchered fifty, reahzing in the local market, of which they then had a practical mono¬ poly, within a few dollars of the cost of the whole flock. In '71 they bought 1,300 at $1*25, of which they sold 500 at $3'50, or a total of $1,650, the whole flock having cost $1,625. This gave a profit of $25 and 80O sheep into the bargain. They have butchered and sold to the value of about $700, and wool has brought them about $1,500. They have now about 1,000 sheep. The destruction of a ranch cost them $300 to $400, for which they expect compensation from the government ; the scab was in the flock, and did not receive sufficient attention in time ; lambs ,came in mid-winter and perished. But for these circumstances the flock should have now num¬ bered about 2,000. As it is, they stand at a very hand¬ some profit ; but had the sheep cost them a really substantial amount, they would undoubtedly have been out of pocket through the investment. They purchased four thoroughbred Leicester rams in 1872 at $50 each^ and a few fine merinos. Wednesday, December 9, I left North Platte in the caboose of the freight train for Ogallalla, about fifty miles distant. The weather being still severe, the cattle were mostly among the hills ; but I saw some hundreds, per¬ haps a thousand, grazing in the snow on the open plain. OgaUalla, the destined seat of Keith County, then con¬ tained about half a dozen buildings. It could boast of two eating-houses, but no lodgings or hotels. I patro¬ nized each eating establishment in turn, and for lodging I 366 NEBRASKA. gladly accepted the hospitality of two bachelor brothers, who divided between them the offices of Judge of Pro¬ bate for the county, Postmaster for the district, and general storekeeper for the drovers. They also owned two or three hundred head of cattle, and did a httle in the butchering line. I slept on the boards in the sky attic, while three others in a row enjoyed their slumbers beside me; and several more were accommodated on the counters and tables in the shpp below, a hot fire enabling them to do without the blankets which were necessary in the colder climate above. After having inspected the Lonergans' sheds, " shoot," and slaughtering estabhsh- ment, I started in the morning with the Judge, Tom Lonergan, on a tour of inspection among the grazing herds. Por the first half-hour our way was through a gently undulating meadow, covered about two and a-half inches deep in snow ; and, as it was very cold, we saw no cattle at all. Esppng a herd of antelope in the dis¬ tance, we rode rapidly towards them, only to see them metamorphosed into horses belonging to the ranch where we hoped to obtain our dinner. We determined to earn the hospitality we expected by driving them homeward. My horse evidently understood this sort of business, and thoroughly enjoyed it, turning to the right or left as occasion required, and putting on the speed whenever I loosened the reins. He evidently thought it was extremely bad management to allow the drove to get any considerable distance ahead. However, I had other business in view. We soon came to a region of small hills and narrow ravines, where the cattle were grazing. Throwing the snow out of their way by a PASTORAL MARVELS. 367 movement of the lips, they bit oíF the short dry grass, and devoured it with very evident rehsh. Long-horned scrawny Texans were there, which, having made their long journey this year, were thin and seemingly in a bad condition to stand the rigours of a severe winter. I was told, however, that many of these would be fatter in the spring. Other Texans that had spent one winter here were, as such cattle go, in prime condition. All the calves were by American sires, and were much superior in style and appearance to their naothers, al¬ though some few of the latter were Americans or cross breeds. Taken altogether, the condition of the animals was a good growing one, and although none of them would merit the term "fat," as it is understood and applied in England, they fully satisfied my expec¬ tations, and convinced me that winter grazing, even in the snow, is not necessarily another name for slow starvation. Our reception at the ranch was as hospitable as we could have wished. After a bountiful repast, a little rest, and some time spent in inspecting the premises, we remounted and started on our return; and I had the pleasure of leading a horse by means of a contrivance which, however common in some places, was altogether novel to my own experience. The halter of the jled horse was securely fastened to the switch of the tail of the one on which I was mounted, and he was obhged to follow without any trouble to myself. Herdsmen will lead in this manner an indefinite number of horses ; and I understand that there is no danger of seriously elon¬ gating or otherwise harming the tail of the foremost 368 NEBRASKA. animal. If a cow or a bullock is mired so that it is very- difficult to bring the animal to terra firma^ the herdsman firmly attaches its tail to one end of a lariat, or rope,, the other end of which is fastened to the tail of a horse, which is then mounted and urged forward. The horse, finding himself fast, pulls his utmost, and the beast is generally dragged out in a twinkhng. The afternoon was milder than the morning, and the cattle were grazing in the open plain. In the course of the day's journey I saw about 3,000 head, being, as indicated by their brands, the intermingled stock of five difierent firms ; and I thoroughly satisfied myself that winter grazing, even with snow on the ground, is a practical, substantial, and important fact. As we journeyed towards Ogallalla the sun approached the horizon, and the sky and numerous clouds assumed colours of strange and wonderful beauty. The " azure " vault itself was of all possible shades of light green, and also of clear light blue ; some of the clouds were solid masses of the deepest indigo, while a few were black, some were purple, and others faintly tinged with crimson and gold. Two days before I had witnessed cloud effects almost equally fine. There is no monotony in the glorious dawns or the beautiful sunsets which are the rule on these elevated plains, and which go far to relieve the tameness of the landscape ; but they are almost as little regarded by the people as an English landscape, with its trees and hedges, and fields and varied scenery in miniature, is esteemed by the average peasant. These things are far more to the English farmer than he knows himself, or, knowing, is willing PASTOKAL MARVELS. 369 to admit. They are so much to ^~*m, in fact, that, if I could see nothing really beautiful on the plains, I should most decidedly tell him to stay away, knowing full well that, whatever his gains, he would be one of the most discontented of mortals till he could get back to Old England again. But I must now come down from the clouds, and deal with things of solid substance. Mr. T. Lonergan, of Ogallalla, who has driven cattle from Texas, and is practically acquainted with the subject, furnished me with the details from which I take the following figures :—^ Estimate for a herd of 5,000 Texan cattle to he bought there early in April, and driven to the Platte Valley. 1,000 head of beeves (bullocks four-year-olds and upwards at $12 each) ........ $12,000 1,000 head of three-year-old bullocks at $8"50 . . . 8,500 1,000 head of two-year-old bullocks at $6 . . . , 6,000 1,000 head of yearlings at $3*25 ..... 3,250 1,000 cows at $7*50 ....... 7,500 Expenses—twenty-five horses bought in Texas and returned for herding at $40 each ....... 1,000 First cost of 100 horses bought in Texas and afterwards resold . 4,000 "Wages of two foremen at $150 per month each for four months 1,200 "Wages of twenty-six drovers with food at $170 each . . 4,420 Eight months' herding on the range, with the extra expenses of branding, &c., at the rate of $1 per head per year . . 3,334 Fifty bulls, fair to very fine grades, costing an average of $50 each .......... 2,500 Interest at 10 per cent, for one year on $53,704 . . . 5,371 $59,075 ^ Prices are lower now than when this estimate was made, but relative proportions remain very much the same. B B 370 NEBRASKA. Keturns of 100 horses sold at ^30 each, a loss of 25 per cent. . $3,000 Amount of investment at end of one year .... 56,075 Herding six months, to October 1st . . . . . 2>500 Interest, half-year, at 10 per cent. ..... 2,803 $61,378 Oct., 1875 : Net returns for sale of 2,000 beeves at an average of $20 each . . . . . •. . . $40,000 Net capital account ....... . $21,378 Stock inventory in October, 1875, after sales are completed : 1,000 old cows, 500 ditto, three-year-old past, 200 ditto two-year-olds, total, 1,700 ; 500 three-year-old bullocks, 500 ditto two-year-olds, 1,350 calves, 50 bulls, 300 two-year-old heifers—^total cattle, 4,400 head. Horses, saddles, waggons, &c., enough for use. Oct., 1875. Capital account brought down . . $21,378 1876. Expenses, one year .... 5,000 „ One year's interest at 10 per cent. . 2,838 yy yy .$29,216 Sales account, 500 bullocks, four-year- olds, at $25 . . $12,500 „ ,, ,, „ 200 old cows at $22*50 . 4,500 17,000 Balance on capital account Oct., 1876 . $12,216 Inventory, October, 1876 ; 1,500 old cows, 300 ditto three-year-olds, 500 three-year- old bullocks, 75 bulls, 1,350 yearhngs, 1,500 calves—^total, 5,225 head. Expenses to October, 1877 ..... 5,000 Interest at 10 per cent. ..... 1,721 18,927 Sales : 500 beeves at $25 . $12,500 100 cows at $22*50 . 2,250 $14,750 Balance on capital account, October, 1877 . . $4,177 PASTORAL MARVELS. 371 Inventory, October, 1877. 1,800 old cows, valued at ^15 400 two-year-olds, valued at ^12*50 275 two-year-old heifers 675 two-year-old bullocks 75 bulls, at $50 1,500 yearlings, at 4,850 calves M o o ai ns a> 'S cS s- O Deduct outstanding capital account .... Balance to profit, exclusive of 10 per cent, interest , $27,000 5,000 3,300 8,300 3,750 12,000 9,000 $68,350 4,177 ,173 Thus, according to this estimate, one invests about £11,050, and in the course of three and a half years withdraws all but about £800, receiving in the mean¬ time 10 per cent, interest, and at the end of the time finding his stock, exclusive of horses, waggons, saddles, fixtures, &c., worth £11,550. The cost of ranches has not been specially allowed for in this estimate, but the allowance for' herding, &c., may be made to cover it. I should prefer, however, to allow £500 to pay for implements and for materials for the ranches, in the building of which I would follow the usual course of employing the spare time of the herds¬ men. I should allow more in the beginning for bulls, for this, if managed with judgment, is the most profit¬ able part of the outlay. Most of the stock in the final inventory are of a grade very much superior to the Texans, and the prices are not unreasonable. Mr. L says that the selling prices put down are sufficiently low to provide for all losses and contingencies, pro¬ vided always that the business is faithfully managed 372 NEBRASKA. by competent persons. Making every allowancé for enthusiasm, the figures are perfectly astounding till we come to investigate thoroughly the very exceptional circumstances from which we obtain them. The cattle are produced where there are neither land, fences, nor food to be paid for ; and they are sold in competition with other cattle, which are profitably raised where land and fences are very important considerations, and winter food the most important of all. There are com¬ paratively few men of means whose engagements will permit them to enter into the business of cattle raising on a scale suificiently large to obtain the greatest ad¬ vantages therefrom, and who by inclination, experience^ and practical judgment, are thoroughly fitted for the pursuit. To cover the great plains of the far West with lowing herds will, therefore, be a work of time ; the demand for beef is both enormous and continually in¬ creasing, consequently very high profits will continue for many years to come. But, though profits will continue very high for a long time, they cannot be • expected to remain at the present figures. There are now many locations so favourable that the herds thereon will require but little watching ; these will be fully occupied in the course of a few years, and then the newer comers, having neither mountains nor rivers to keep their cattle within bounds, will be obliged to herd them with more and more care and greater ex¬ pense, till it will be found cheaper to fence off the several ranges than to employ a sufficient number of herdsmen. From Ogallalla I proceeded to Laramie City, in the PASTORAL MARVELS. 373 neiglibouring territory of Wyoming. As evening ap- proacbed, and I neared my destination on tbe great mountain plain, I saw bovering over one of tbe snow¬ capped peaks a ricbly coloured cloud, so curious in form, and witbal so perfect, tbat it migbt well bave been con¬ sidered a miraculous omen in tbe superstitious days of old. It was a most accurate representation of a long waving ostricb plume, in varying tints of crimson and purple and gold. Had it represented a properly pre¬ pared quill of a goose, I migbt possibly bave taken it to myself as an omen of future fame. As it was, I could only call tbe attention of my fellow-passengers, and gaze on it witb pleasure and wonder till it faded away. I was totally unable to conceive tbe destiny in store for me ; but in a few days I became without effort a mibtary bero, witb tbe rank of colonel, and my fame was soon somewhat widely extended. Whether this bad anything to do witb tbe ostricb plume in tbe heavens, I leave for reasonable readers to determine. I saw no large'flocks of sheep in Western Nebraska; indeed, I do not think there are any ; for tbe most ebgible locations on tbe immediate line of tbe railway were already occupied witb cattle before their intro¬ duction, and tbe flockmasters naturally went further westward into Wyoming ; but, a short distance from tbe railway, there are numerous fine locations for ranches as yet unoccupied, and shepherding is destined to become an important industry in this part of tbe State ; and I therefore give some estimates and state¬ ments which, though founded on Wyoming experience, are fairly applicable here. 374 NEBRASKA. Messrs. Clarke and Co., about eighteen miles from Laramie City, have the most complete estabhshment that I have seen. Cl.arTce and Co.'s Estimate. Improvement, plant,