EXTEACT
PROM THE
ANNUAL REPORT
OF
THE SECRETARY OF ¥AE;
AND
EEPORT
OF
CAPT. A. A. HUMPHREYS
TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS,
UPON THE
PROGEESS OF THE PACIFIC EAILROAD EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS,
DECEMBER, 1 8 5 6.
WASHINGTON:
1857.
Extract from the Annual Beport of Secretary of War, December, 1856.
A report is herewitli submitted from the office of this department
connected with the explorations made to ascertain the most practica¬
ble route for a railroad to the Pacific, to which I refer for a detailed
account of the duties performed in that relation during the past year.
My last annual report contained a brief reference to the principal
results of the explorations and surveys made during that year in
connexion with the routes near the 35th and 32d parallels, and be¬
tween the Gila and Eio Grande. The report of the officer charged
with these duties shows the proposed railroad line between the bay
of San Francisco and the plain of Los Angeles to he an eminently
practicable route. It occupies the valley of the San José and Salinas
, rivers ; crosses the Santa Lucia mountains near San Luis Obispo ; tra¬
verses the rolling country adjacent to the coast as far as Tres Alamos
_river, and thence, to the mouth of the Gavióte creek, either passes
along the valley of Santa Inez river and the Gavióte Pass, or follows
the coast, turning Point Conception ; from the mouth of Gavióte
creek it follows the shore-line to San Buenaventura, and crosses the
Santa Clara plain, the Semi Pass, and the San Fernando plain to Los
Angeles.
The distance from San José, near the bay of San Francisco, to Los
Angeles, by the shortest line, is 396 miles. Two tunnels are pro¬
posed, each three-fourths of a mile in length, one on the San Luis
Pass, through the Santa Lucia mountains, and the other in the Semi
Pass. The estimated cost of this route, including equipment, is
$20,823,750, or about $52,600 per mile.
A favorable pass, leading from the valley of the Salinas river to
the Tulare valley, was discovered by this party, forming a good
connexion with the bay of San Francisco for the route of the 35th
parallel.
The results of the survey, it was formerly stated, have greatly
improved the aspect of the first route surveyed between the Pimas
villages, on the Gila, and the Eio Grande, by changing the line for
nearly half the distance from barren ground to cultivable valleys, and
entirely avoiding a jornada of eighty miles which occurs in that sec¬
tion. The route now follows the valleys of the Gila and the San
Pedro rivers to the mouth of the Arivaypa, a tributary of the San
Pedro, discovered by this party ; continues up that stream to its
source ; crosses between Mount Graham and Chiricahui mountains by
a very favorable pass ; proceeds in a direct course through the Pelon-
cillo mountains, and joins the former line in the vicinity of Col.
Cooke's emigrant road. From this point to the Eio Grande the route
4
lies in the lowest line of the depression which characterizes the plateau
of the Sierra Madre in this latitude, the mean elevation of which is
about 4,400 feet above the level of the sea, the summit being 4,600
feet above that level.
The maximum grade upon this route is 64.4 feet per mile. The
route for two-thirds of the distance is represented as being most
favorable for a railroad ; the remaining one-third being nearly equally
divided between ground of a rolling and mountainous character.
The examinations of this party, in reference to the practicability of
procuring water, show that it may be obtained at suitable distances by
common wells and conduits, supplied from permanent streams. In some
localities artesian wells might probably he resorted to successfully.
The estimated cost of the whole distance, 345 miles, is $15,800,000,
or about $44,000 per mile. The estimate, based upon a thorough
re-examination of the ground, and a close study of the subject by the
officers in charge of the survey, coincides very nearly with that made
by the officer who presented the general revisory report upon the first
explorations.
It is deemed proper to call especial attention to this coincidence, so
strongly exhibiting the general reliability of these estimates, because
a minority report made at the last session of Congress, from a com¬
mittee of the House of Kepresentatives, characterized the estimates,
based on the reconnaissances of the topographical engineers, as un¬
reliable, and adduced to sustain that disparaging reflection, the fact
that on one of the lines explored, the preliminary estimate of the
officer in charge greatly exceeded that which he presented after a
further study of his observations in the field; this, too, being in dis¬
regard of the fact that the first estimate was hastily made by the ex¬
plorer to meet a pressing demand for his report, and was at the time
stated by him to have been prepared in anticipation of the future ex¬
amination of the data he had collected. In the remarks of the revising
officer which accompanied the reports it was also pointed out that this
estimate was probably largely in excess.
Although the two lines between the Gila and Kio Grande, of which
the estimated cost is so nearly alike, are over different routes, the
features of the ground, so far as they would affect the cost of construc¬
tion of a railroad, are nearly identical ; the advantages of the new
line depending upon other considerations already enumerated.
Similar remarks may he applied to the estimated cost of the two
routes between the plains of Los Angeles and San Francisco, though
the coincidence there is not so close, the character of the gi'ound being
such as would cause a dilference of expense in the road-bed formation.
In addition to his own results, the officer in command of this party
has presented those of an instrumental survey from San Diego hay,
through Warner's Pass, to the Colorado desert, made under the aus¬
pices of the San Diego and Gila Railroad Company.
The engineer of this company estimates the cost of a railroad on
this route from San Diego to Fort Yuma, distance 189.1 miles, at
$7,571,500 ; one half of this distance being estimated at $14,615 per
mile, and the other half at $65,085 per mile. These estimates are
much less than those contained in the reports of the officers of this
5
department for routes passing over similar ground. Either standard
of cost per mile applied to the routes from Fort Yuma to San Diego
and from Fort Yuma to San Pedro, through the San Grorgonio pass,
gives about the same total amount of cost for each route. The line
to San Diego forms the shortest route to the Pacific, the distances
being, from Fulton to San Diego 1,548 miles, from Fulton to San Pe¬
dro 1,618 miles. If the final terminus of a Pacific railroad is to he
San Francisco, the route through the San Gorgonio Pass to San Pe¬
dro is preferable to that to San Diego, since the former port is about
100 miles nearer to San Francisco.
The party directed to explore the country between the Sacramento
and Columbia rivers, with a view to ascertain the practicability of
connecting these valleys by a railroad, examined two routes, one east,
the other west of the Cascade range.
The former accomplishes the passage of the western chain of the
Sierra Nevada by following Pitt river. The route then traverses a
sterile plateau, elevated from four to five thousand feet above the sea,
to the head of the Des Chutes river. Serious obstacles to the construc¬
tion of a railroad are encountered at the canon of Pitt river, and near
upper Klamath lake. Wood and water are sufficiently abundant.
The deep canons in which the Des Chutes river and its tributaries flow
render it impracticable for a railroad to follow its valley to the Columbia
river. A practicable although difficult pass was examined through the
Cascade range near Diamond Peak, by which the road can reach the
Willamette valley ; the route through which to the Columbia is very
favorable to the construction of a railroad. The route west of the Cascade
range is though the Willamette, Umpqua, Rogue River, and Shasta
valleys. It proved to be more favorable than had been anticipated,
and had not the smallness of the party and its inability to obtain an
escort during the existence of Indian hostilities prevented lateral re¬
connaissances, it appears probable that a practicable line to F ort Read¬
ing would have been found, traversing for nearly the whole distance a
fertile and inhabited region.
Between the Columbia river and Fort Lane in Rogue River valley,
the Kalapooya mountains, Umpqua mountains and the Grave Creek
hills are the chief obstacles to the construction of a railroad. An excel¬
lent pass through the first, and a difficult hut practicable pass through
the second, were surveyed. The Grave Creek hills, it is thought, can
he turned.
Information respecting a pass from Rogue River valley to the
plateau east of the Cascade mountains makes it probable that an easy
connexion with the first route examined may be made, and this will be
especially important should the obstacles encountered between Fort
Lane and Fort Reading he shown by further examination to he insur¬
mountable.
The pass examined through the Siskiyou mountains which separate
Rogue River and Shasta valleys was very unfavorable to the construc¬
tion of a railroad.
From Shasta valley to Fort Reading the route over the Scott and
Trinity mountains is reported utterly impracticable. A feasible loca-
6
tion between these places might he obtained by following the Sacra¬
mento valley.
The route east of the Cascade range may he considered practicable.
The total distance by it from Benicia to Vancouver is about 800 miles,
of which only 350 miles are in a fertile and settled region. The con¬
struction for about 250 miles would he very difficult and costly ; for
the remainder of the distance the work would he light.
The principal advantage of a route west of the Cascade range would
consist in its traversing a fertile and inhabited country. By the line
surveyed, the total distance from Benicia to Vancouver is 680 miles,
of which 500 would he easy of construction, 100 difficult and costly,
and 80 so difficult and expensive as to he considered impracticable.
Additional experiments have been made, during the past year, by
the party previously engaged in testing the practicability of procuring
water by means of artesian wells upon the Llano Estacado, and upon
the table-lands west of the Kio Grande. In the latter region the trial
has not been prosecuted sufficiently far to admit of satisfactory con¬
clusions. The work upon the Llano, which had been suspended until
additional tubing could be procured, was resumed, and a well has
been sunk to the depth of 861 feet. At the depths of 245 and 676
feet seams of pure and palatable water were laid open ; the first rising
in the well 25 feet, and the second to within 110 feet of the surfaee.
As no water rose above this point it has not yet been practically de¬
monstrated that, in this region, there are subterranean streams which
can be made to flow upon the surface ; but nothing has been devel¬
oped to change the opinion, heretofore expressed, that the experiment
will be attended with success, if prosecuted to the depth then con¬
templated by the department.
More detailed information regarding the late operations will be
found in the report from the office connected with these explorations.
The well has been left in such condition that the boring may be
continued from the point where it ceased, should future appropria¬
tions admit the resumption of the work.
The important results that may attend the solution of this ques¬
tion, not only in connexion with the construction of a railroad, but
also in the development of the resources which the country may con¬
tain, have been already noticed in previous reports from this department.
The topographical surveys carried on in connexion with this work
have improved the location of that portion of the railroad route near
the thirty-second parallel east of the Rio Grande.
REPORT I
OF
CAPT. A. A. HUMPHREYS, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS,
. UPON THE
PROGRESS OP THE PACIFIC RAILROAD EXPLORATIONS AND SÜRVETS.
War Department,
Office Pacific Bailroad Explorations and Surveys,
Washington, November 29, 1856.
Sir: At the date of my last report, November 29, 1855, the party
of Lieutenant John G. Parke, topographical engineers, had just re¬
turned to Washington from the field. Since then it has been occupied
in preparing the reports and maps of the survey, which are now nearly
completed.
' By instructions from the department, of October 2, 1854, Lieuten-
-ant Parke was directed to make explorations to determine the practi¬
cability of constructing a railroad from the waters of the Bay of San
Francisco to the plain of Los Angeles, by the Salinas river valley,
and through the spurs of the coast range, which extend to the seacoast,
near Point Conception ; or, if that was found to he impracticable, by
the coast route ; to make certain explorations in the Great Basin, in
connexion with the route of the 35th parallel, and to explore the
country between the Pimas villages, on the Gila, and the Bio Grande;
the attentign of the party being particularly directed to such exami¬
nations in the latter region as would show the degree of practicability
of constructing artesian and common wells.
The survey was commenced at San José, California. The route
lay through the Santa Clara, or San José valley, to the Pajaro river ;
down the valley of this stream to near its débouché into the hay of
Monterey ; around the foot hills of the Gavilan range of mountains
to the Salinas plains and the valley of the Salinas river, and up the
Salinas river to Santa Margarita, at the base of the San Luis Pass.
Thus far, no material obstacles were presented to the construction
of a railroad ; the Santa Clara valley and Salinas plains affording a
peculiarly favorable location for it. A bridge across the Pajaro and
some light earthwork at the terminal spurs of Mount Gavilan, and in
the valley of the Salinas, between the mouth of the San Lorenzo and
Santa Margarita, constitute the heaviest portion of the work for this
s
distance of one hundred and seventy-seven miles. The maximum
grade required will he seventy feet per mile, for two miles.
A month was devoted to a thorough examination of the headwaters
of the Salinas river. Keconnoitring parties were sent forward to
examine the main stream and its largest tributary, the Estrella and
the Cuyama plain, or valley of the Eio de Santa Maria, beyond,
while a detailed survey of the San Luis Pass was being made. The
explorations about the heads of the Salinas and the Cuyama plain
prove that a line through this country would he impracticable. An
extensive basin was discovered—the Llano Estero—a tributary to
the Tulare valley, which affords a very favorable pass from that valley
to the bays of Monterey and San Francisco ; the elevation of the
summit being about 1,800 feet above the sea. The approach from
the Tulare valley is over a plain for about forty miles. The distance
from this pass to Kern lake is sixty-five miles.
The elevation of the lake above the sea, according to Lieutenant
Williamson, is three hundred and ninety-eight feet. It is believed
that a grade of sixty feet per mile will accomplish the descent from
the summit, westward, to the Estrella. The average grade of Estrella
creek to its mouth at San Miguel is about twenty feet per mile.
The route was continued across the Santa Lucia mountains, through
the San Luis Pass, to the seashore. A detailed survey of this pass
was made. It is a sharp divide, composed of slightly metamorphosed
sandstone and serpentine rock. The elevation of the summit was
found to he 1,556 feet above the sea. It is proposed to tunnel this
pass for three-fourths of a mile, commencing at a point about 200 feet
below the summit. The maximum ascending grade would he 80 feet
per mile. The San Luis creek heads on the seaward side of this pass,
and descends rapidly to the plain through a wide valley, flanked on
either side by rib-like spurs from the mountain. The descent of the
stream is too great to admit the location of the road through or near
San Luis Obispo ; hut, four and a half miles below its source, there is
a lateral ravine, from the summit of which the line may be carried
along the slopes of the mountains to the small divide between Corral
de Piedras creek and Arroyo Grande, a stream running to the Pacific,
whose slope, from the point where it is reached, admits of railroad loca¬
tion as far as its mouth. From the summit of the San Luis Pass to
the ocean, a grade of 100 feet per mile would he required for fourteen
miles. This section constitutes the boldest feature of the route be¬
tween San Francisco and Los Angeles. Lieutenant Parke is of opinion
that for temporary purposes this pass can be surmounted^without a
tunnel, by resorting to a system of short curves and heavy grades—the
greatest 200 feet per mile—similar to that adopted in the location oí
the Virginia Central Kailroad across the Blue Bidge at Kockfish Gap,
where the maximum grade is 215 feet per mile. The examinations in
the vicinity of San Luis Obispo having been completed, the region
lying between the ocean, the plains of Los Angeles, the western edge
of the Great Basin, and the heads of the Tulare and Salinas valleys
was thoroughly explored. The line adopted as most favorable com¬
mences at the Arroyo Grande ; traverses the Guadalupe Largo ; as¬
cends the Todos Santos summit; descends to the Eio de Tres Alamos;
9
crosses the spur between Rio de Tres Alamos and the Santa Inez river;
passes to the summit of the Glaviote Pass at Santa Cruz—elevation,
700 feet—and, through the lower portion of the Gavióte Pass and
creek, to the coast. The maximum grade upon this line is 100 feet
per mile, for miles, through the Gavióte canon. From the summit
of the Gavióte Pass (at Santa Cruz) to the ocean, the location will be
hold; requiring heavy work in earth and rock (sandstone) to keep up
the grade. A lofty structure will he required across the Gavióte
creek, and a heavy cut through a salient point at its mouth. The
route around Points Purisima, Arguello, and Conception is 14 miles
longer. It lies wholly on the terraced shore, and at no point is over
100 feet above the sea.
From Gavióte creek to San Buenaventura—60 miles—the character
of the location will he the same as that of the route around Point Con¬
ception, being near the shore, and on the terraces.
The most favorable route from San Buenaventura, or the Santa Clara
river, follows the Semi plain and pass to the San Fernando plain.
The Semi Pass divides the San Fernando plain from the Santa Clara
plain. A tunnel is proposed here, which will not exceed three-fourths
of a mile in length, and, upon closer survey, may he materially short¬
ened. The rock is sandstone of easy cleavage. The summit of this
pass is 1,577 feet above the sea ; the summit of the grade, 976 feet
above that level. The ascending and descending grades are light.
The San Fernando and Los Angeles plains are separated by a narrow
valley. The route from San José, on the waters of the hay of San
Francisco, to near Los Angeles, is divided into nine parts. The
length of each division, the maximum grade, and approximate cost
are presented by Lieutenant Parke, as follows :
Division.
Length.
Maximum grades, &c.
Cost per mUe.
Total cost.
JVliles.
1
39.25
18 feet per mile.
$30,000 00
$1,177,500 00
2
20.75
11 feet per mile.
55,000 00
1,141,250 00
3
45.50
6J feet per mile.
30,000 00
1,365,000 00
4
71.50
70 feet per mile.
50,000 00
3,575,000 00
5
24.50
100 feet per mile.
117,142 00
2,870,000 00
6
32.50
63.2 feet per mile.
30,000 00
975,000 00
7
33.50
100 feet per mile.
80,000 00
2,680,000 00
8
58.50
60 feet per mile.
60,000 00
3,510,000 00
9
70.00
63 feet per mile.
30,000 00
2,100,008 00
Total..
396.00
Average cost per mile..
49,163 00
19,468,750 00
* For the line via Point Conception, 13| miles longer, the maximum grade is 60 feet per
mile; the average cost per mile $60,QOO. This makes the cost of the entire division
$2,835,000, which exceeds the above, $155,000, and increases the total cost to $19,623,750.
The above estimates are exclusive of equipment. If we take a pro¬
portional amount for this distance of 400 miles of the entire amount
estimated for the 32d parallel route, for first equipment, we shall have
about $1,200,000 to add to the above, giving $20,823,750.
The examinations of the coast route having been completed, the
10
Mojave river and basin were explored and found to bave no connexion
with the Colorado river and basin.
Proceeding to the Pirnas villages, the initial point of the last recon¬
naissance, a division of the party was made ; one-half proceeding, via
Tucson, San Xavier, and the Cienega de los Pirnas, to the river San Pe¬
dro, and the other, up the Gila and San Pedro valleys. In his report of
1854, Lieutenant Parke suggested the probability of finding a feasible
route from the Valle de Sauz to the Gila valley, by passing between the
Chiricahui mountains and Mount Graham and continuing thence, in
a northwesterly direction, along the western base of Mount Graham
io the Gila. His views in this respect were fully confirmed by the
•examinations of the division of the party retained under his own
•command. Following the Gila river to the mouth of the San Pedro,
a favorable route was found for nearly the entire distance. The valley
•of the San Pedro proved to be wide and open ; presenting no impedi¬
ment to a rail or wagon road. There was an abundance of water,
grass, and excellent soil, but no growth suitable for timber, though
sufficient for fuel. Twelve miles from the mouth a large tributary
was encountered, coming in from tbe east, and a party was organized
for its examination. This party, descending the San Pedro for 35
miles from the Quercus canon,^crossed the mountains on the right
bank to the plains west of Mount Graham, and, pursuing a northwest-
•erly course for 86 miles, found the head of the " Arivaypa," as the
newly discovered streaip was called. The springs mentioned by Nu¬
gent, in his notes of Hay's trip, were found in the Playa de los Pimas,
and a reconnaissance was made of Nugent's Pass. The main detach¬
ment passed through the Puerto del Dado, and the smaller through
the wide pass between tbe Chiricahui mountains and Mount Graham ;
the two uniting on the Eio Sauz, about 15 miles below the Cienega.
Examinations made eastward, across the Peloncillo (Sugarloaf) moun¬
tains, resulted in the discovery of an excellent pass for a railroad in
a more direct line than that of the route of 1854. From this range
of mountains an easterly course was pursued, and connexion made with
the former survey about 15 miles west of the point where Colonel
Cooke's emigrant road diverges to the southwest.
The route between the Kio Grande and the Pimas villages may be
divided into three parts—from the Eio Grande to the Valle de Sauz ;
from the Valle de Sauz to the mouth of the San Pedro ; and from the
mouth of the San P Gro to the Maricopa wells.
1st Division. Frcnà the Eio Grande to the Valle de Sauz.—From the
Eio Grande the line ascends the mesa on the right bank by a grade oí
60 feet per mile, and pursues a nearly direct westerly course, passing
north of Sierra Florida, and 12 miles south of Cooke's spring, crossing
the Mimhres bed 21 miles below the gink of the water, and passing
through the lowest points of the great depression which characterizes
the plateau of the Sierra Madre upon this route. The summit of the
plateau is crossed near Cooke's emigrant road. The line then pro¬
ceeds due west to the Sauz valley, through a pass in the Peloncillo
range, (Sugarloaf,) about 4 miles south of the Sugarloaf Peak. The
maximum grade upon this division is 64.4 feet per mile. The mean
elevation of the plateau is about 4,400 feet above tbe sea. The sum-
11
mits oí the Florida Pass of the Sierra Madre, and of the Peloncillo
Pass, are respectively 4,600, 4,600, and 4,481 feet above the sea. The
maximum grade (64.4 feet) is from the Peloncillo summit to the Sauz
valley.
2d Division. From El Sauz to the mouth of the San Pedro.—From
the Sauz the line is projected through the Eailroad Pass—the wide
openinghetweenthe ChiricahuiandPinaleno (Mount G-raham) ranges—
thence, northwesterly, along the Pinaleño plain to the Arivaypa
valley ; down this valley to the San Pedro and to the Gila. The sum¬
mit of the Eailroad Pass is 4,600 feet above the sea—582 feet lower
than the Puerto del Dado—and is without doubt several hundred feet
lower than any other Pass through this range of mountains, south of
the Gila. The Pinaleño plain has a mean elevation of about 4,400
feet. The descent of the Arivaypa to the canon through the Calitro
mountains is about 40 feet per mile, for 31 miles ; the grade through
the canon and the San Pedro is 60.3 feet per mile, and thence to the
Gila 14 4 feet per mile.
3d Division. From the mouth of the San Pedro to the Maricopa tvells.—
This division passes along the valley of the Gila, and presents a favor¬
able location, except at about four points where salient spurs obstruct
the stream. These are thin, and can he easily removed by blasting.
The maximum grade on this division is 15 feet per mile, and it may
possibly be increased to 20 feet per mile, in a final location, for a short
distance. The distance from the Eio Grande at Fort Fillmore to the
Maricopa wells is 345^ miles ; being about 23 miles shorter than the
line by the former survey. The highest elevation attained is 4,600 feet.
For the purpose of comparing this route with others, and to form
an approximate estimate of its cost by an assimilation to roads al¬
ready built. Lieutenant Parke has divided the country through which
it passes into three characteristic portions, viz: prairie, rolling or
hilly, and mountainous. The prairie section comprises that portion
which will require hut little more work thqn the adjustment of the
sills for the reception of the rails ; the hilly or rolling, that portion
which will require light earthwork and little or no rock cutting ; and
the mountainous, the holder features of the line, where side locations
and heavy earth and rock work will he necessary. The respective
lengths of these divisions are :
Of prairie 230 miles.
The longest line of continuous prairie route is 130 miles, and the
shortest 25 miles.
The longest line of rolling route is 30 miles, and the shortest 5
miles.
The longest line of mountainous route is 25 miles, and the shortest
5 miles.
The estimates for the final report are not yet completed. According
oiling
Of mountainous
65 "
50 "
Total,
345 miles.
12
to these estimates, so far as they have been made, the cost of the three
sections will not exceed |30,000, $60,000, and $90,000 per mile, re¬
spectively, including equipment; making a total of $15,300,000, or
an average cost per mile of the whole line of $44,000.
With reference to the supply of water between the Bio Grande and
the Gila, Lieutenant Parke is of opinion that an abundance can he
delivered on the line, at suitable distances, by conduits from the fol¬
lowing localities; Cooke's spring. Bio Mimbres, Ojo de la Vaca,
Agua Pria, Ojo de Inez, Ciénega de Sauz, Croton springs, at the
Playa de los Pimas, Antelope, Dove, and Castro springs, and Bear
springs, at the head of the Arivaypa. The above localities are per¬
manent watering-places, and have never been known to fail, notwith¬
standing the drains upon them by evaporation, by large herds of
stock en route for the Pacific coast, and the frequent visits of the
wandering Apaches. It is well known that while little rain is
delivered upon the plains and valleys during the rainy season, the
clouds are nearly always hovering over the mountains, dispensing
copious showers, furnishing abundant supplies.to the springs and
streams enumerated. The longest distance between the points which
can he supplied with certainty from permanent water, is fifty-one
miles. This occurs between Ojo de Inez and Cienega de Sauz ; hut
there are two points in the Pyramid Basin—one east and one west of
the Pyramid Bange—where there is every reason to conclude that
ample supplies of water can be procured by common or artesian wells.
The distances between the water- stations proposed along the line are
as follows:
From Bio Grande to station 1, 31 miles.
From station 1 to station 2, 19 "
" " 2 " 3, 15
" 3 " 4, 22 "
" " 4 " 5, 17 "
i< ÍÍ 5 u 10 "
" " 6 " 7, 20 "
" " 7 " 8, 21 "
" " 8 " 9, 28 "
" « 9 a 10^ 29 "
The supply of timber along this route is scanty. Cedar and pine
are found in the Coppermine mountains and near the sources of the
Mimbres. The valleys of the Santa Cruz and the Gila contain dense
groves of mezquite, which, particularly in the former locality, will
furnish a large number of excellent cross-ties. Cottonwood in limited
quantities is found in nearly all the valleys where watercourses exist.
There is not timber enough along the line, within fifty miles each
way, to supply its demands.
The improvements in the former route made by this survey may
be stated in brief to he : a more direct railroad line between the
Pimas villages and the Bio Grande, with lighter grades, fewer sum¬
mits, less elevation, greater supply of water, avoidance of a long
jornada, and the introduction of cultivable valleys. It is probable,
from the form and geological structure of the basins and plains, that
13
ordinary wells may be made to furnisli abundant supplies of water at
distances not too great for the economical working of passenger trains.
It has been indicated that in some localities artesian wells may be re¬
sorted to if needed.
As a post-route, Lieutenant Parke is of opinion that the route of the
thirty-second parallel presents many advantages. By the construc¬
tion of water stations at suitable distances, and by providing relays
at various points, the mails could be transmitted from the Mississippi
to San Diego in less than thirty days.
In addition to the results of his own examinations near the thirty-
second parallel, Lieutenant Parke presents those of a detailed instru¬
mental survey from the bay of San Diego, through Warner's Pass,
to the Colorado desert, made by Charles Poole, esq., civil engineer,
under the direction of the San Diego and Gila Railroad Company, or¬
ganized under the authority of the legislature of California. Begin-
ing at San Diego, this line ascends the San Diego river to San Isabel ;
passes through the valley of San Isabel and San José to Warner's
Pass and to the Indian villages of San Felipe, and from this point
through a canon, to the desert. The maximum grade—107 feet per
mile—is at the approach to the San Isabel summit. The grades to
the summit of Warner's Pass are 102 and 106 feet per mile. The
distance from San Diego to Fort Yuma is 189.1 miles. The whole
line is divided into two portions, the prairie and mountainous. As¬
suming in his estimate that the two are equal in length—stating,
however, that " the cheaper is largely in excess "—Mr. Poole says :
" we have ten miles at the western, and eighty-five at the eastern sec¬
tion, to be estimated at the lower rate."
The probable average cost of a single mile of the cheaper
portion, to put the road in running order, including
equipment, he estimates to be $14,615 00
And for ninety-five miles 1,388,425 00
And, for the more expensive portion, the cost per mile.. 65,085 00
Which for ninety-five miles is 6,183,075 00
Making a total of 7,571,500 00
These estimates of cost per mile are very much less than those for
similar ground in the report of Lieutenant Parke, and in other War
Department reports.
Either standard applied to the two routes—the route to San Diego
by Warner's Pass, and that to San Pedro by the San Gorgonio Pass—
will give about the same total cost for each. If the object is to reach
the bay of San Francisco, the route through the San Gorgonio Pass
is preferable, since after reaching San Diego through Warner's
Pass, at a cost equal to that of the route through the San Gorgonio
Pass to San Pedro, there would remain the distance between San
Diego and San Pedro—nearly 100 miles—over which it would be ne¬
cessary to build the road.
In obedience to instructions from the War Department, dated May
1, 1855, a party was organized by Lieutenant R. S. Williamson,
corps of topographical engineers, to examine the country lying be-
14
tween the Sacramento and Columhia rivers, with a view to ascertain
the practicability of connecting their valleys hy a railroad.
The first 200 miles of the route—from Benicia to Fort Beading, in
the Sacramento valley—pass through a settled country. The average
grade would not exceed five feet, and bridges would form the only ex¬
pensive item in the construction of a railroad. Timber and water are
abundant.
From Fort Beading, two routes to the Columhia river were exam¬
ined—one east of the Cascade range, and the other between it and the
coast range. The former crosses the western branch of the Sierra
Nevada hy Nohïe's Pass—a difficult location for a railroad, as there
is an ascent, in a distance of 40 miles, of about 6,000 feet. A better
line for crossing this range can he had by ascending Pitt river along the
route surveyed hy Lieutenant Beckwith. A careful examination of
the two canons of this river developed results less favorable than those
obtained by Lieutenant Beckwith, but nevertheless demonstrated the
practicability of constructing a railroad near them.
The route beyond the upper canon of this river lies for about 250 miles
over a plateau—mostly sterile, though well supplied with water—
elevated between 4,000 and 5,000 feet above the sea. This plateau
extends from the western chain of the Sierra Nevada, northward, be¬
yond the Columbia, gradually declining towards that river from the
head of the Des Chutes valley.
Where timber is wanting in the immediate vicinity of the route,
which rarely occurs, the mountains bordering it on the west will fur¬
nish an abundant supply.
For nearly the whole distance the average grade will he less than
25 feet, though in a few instances it rises to 100 feet per mile. Diffi¬
cult work will be found near Upper Klamath lake, and between it
and Klamath marsh, where some heavy cutting and filling will be
reqrrisite. At the latter place it will be necessary to follow the cañón
of Klamath river for about six miles. Near the head of the Des
Chutes valley the party divided. Lieutenant Williamson, after a
careful examination of the Cascade range in this vicinity, crossed it
near Diamond Peak by a pass through which a wagon road has been
made. Both the ascending and descending grades were found to he
very abrupt. By the road, the ascending grades were for 2^ miles
231 feet ; for 4yV miles 72 feet, and for 2 miles 42 feet per mile. The
descending grades were for 5 miles 23 feet; for 3yV miles 512 feet,
and for 2| miles 311 feet per mile. Below this point they were all
less than 125 feet per mile, and they continued to diminish rapidly.
The above grades might be reduced by a side location to an ascending
grade of 150 feet per mile for 7 miles, and a descending grade of 180
feet per mile for 16 miles, and perhaps even still further. There will
he great difficulty in cutting through the dense forest. The summit
of the pass is 5,600 feet above the sea.
After crossing the Cascade mountains, the Willamette valley was
followed for 150 miles to the Columbia river, the route being favorable
and the grades light. The total distance from Benicia to Fort Van¬
couver by this route is 760 miles.
15
Lieutenant Abbot, corps of topographical engineers, examined the
Des Chutes valley to the Columbia river. The impracticability of
constructing a railroad across or along the deep canons cut in the
plateau by that river and its western tributaries was fully demon¬
strated. Proceeding to Vancouver, the Cascade mountains were
crossed a short distance south of Mount Flood, through a pass discov¬
ered by the party, which is practicable for a railroad, though proba¬
bly inaccessible on the eastern side. Through this pass an ascending
grade of 100 feet per mile would he required for 14 miles, and a de¬
scending grade of 123 feet per mile for 30 miles. The summit is
4,500 feet ahove the sea. For about 55 miles the construction would
be difficult and expensive. The pass is a good one for a wagon road.
Lieutenant Williamson was compelled by the lateness of the season
to return by water to San Francisco to prepare for a second survey in
the Sierra Nevada, near the head of Carson river. Orders were left
for Lieutenant Ahbot to survey the route to Fort Beading lying be¬
tween the Cascade and coast ranges. After Lieutenant Williamson's
departure, hostilities were commenced by the Indian tribes on this
route, which rendered an escort for the small topographical party ab¬
solutely necessary. The exigencies of the public service in that region
were such, however, as, in the opinion of the commanding officer at
Fort Vancouver, to require him to attach the escort that had accom¬
panied the party from California to his command, and it was there¬
fore necessary either to abandon the duty or pass without an escort
through a hostile Indian country. The latter course was adopted,
and, although the absence of tbe escort rendered it impossible to make
side explorations, the result of the survey proved the route to be more
favorable than was anticipated. With the means to make side ex¬
plorations, it is thought that a route might have been found through
this fertile and settled country better adapted to a railroad than the
line traversing the sterile region east of the Cascade range.
Through the Calapooya mountains, which separate the Willamette
from the Umpqua valley, an excellent pass was found ; giving, with¬
out difficult or expensive construction, an ascending grade of 31 feet
per mile for 2 miles, and a descending grade of 66 feet per mile for 5
miles. The summit is 900 feet above the sea. In the Umpqua val¬
ley there are a few hills where the work would be difficult, but it is
thought that these may he avoided and a good location obtained to
the Umpqua canon. This pass, a serious obstacle to the construction
of a railroad, leads through the Umpqua mountains to Bogue Biver
valley. Its summit is 2,000 feet above the sea. An ascending grade
would be required of 207 feet per mile for 7 miles, with some heavy
rock cutting, and a descending grade of 192 feet per mile for 2 miles.
By side location the latter might be greatly reduced. It is possible
that an examination of Cow Creek canon might have developed a more
favorable route.
In Bogue Biver valley the Grave Creek hills present the principal
obstacle. By following Wolf creek to Bogue river they might proba¬
bly be turned, but this examination could not be made. There is a
pass from the valley to the great plateau east of the mountains, which,
16
if as favorable as reported, would make a good connexion witb tbe
route surveyed by Lieutenant Williamson.
Through the Siskiyou mountains, which separate Eogue Eiver and
Shasta vàlleys, the construction of a railroad would be very difficult.
The summit of the pass surveyed is 4,500 feet above the sea. An
ascending grade of 130 feet per mile for ten miles, with a tunnel six
miles long, and a descending grade of 106 feet per mile for twelve
miles would be required. A better pass was reported, but again the
want of an escort prevented the necessary examinations.
A recent survey made by a number of gentlemen from Shasta to
determine the practicability of constructing a wagon road from Shasta
valley to Fort Eeading, by the valley of the Sacramento river, showed
that project to be quite feasible. This route was not examined owing
to the lateness of the season, there being no grass upon it at that
time, and the animals being nearly broken down. The Trinity trail,
which crosses Scott's mountain and Trinity mountain, was followed,
and it proved utterly impracticable for a railroad.
By the return route the distance from Vancouver to Fort Eeading
is 476 miles.
Of the two routes surveyed from Benicia to the Columbia river, that
east of the Cascade range may be considered practicable for a rail¬
road. Three hundred and fifty miles of it lie through a fertile and
settled region, where the construction would be easy. Two hundred
miles are through an unsettled and barren country, but where no very
heavy work would be required. The remainder of the route, which
side locations would probably render 250 miles long, passes through
a wilderness, and would require difficult and costly construction.
By the actually surveyed line west of the Cascade range, there are
500 miles where the construction would be easy, 100 miles that would
be difficult and expensive, and 80 miles impracticable.
The field work terminated at Fort Eeading ; the season being too
far advanced to admit of the intended exploration of the Sierra Nevada
near the sources of Carson river.
Lieut. Williamson and party reached Washington in January,
1856, and have since been engaged in preparing the maps, drawings,
and detailed reports of the survey. These are now in an advanced
condition.
The party, under the direction of Captain John Pope, topographical
engineers, organized by the instructions of the department of Janu¬
ary 5, 1855, to ascertain the practicability of constructing artesian
wells upon the arid plains of Texas and New Mexico, has continued
its labors during the past year. The region selected for the field of
its first operations is described by Captain Pope as extending from the
Eio Grande, east, to the headwaters of the Canadian, the Eed river,
the Brazos, and tbe Colorado, with their tributaries. It is included
between the parallels of 30° and 36° N. latitude, and comprises an area
of about 100,000 square miles. The river Pecos flows through it in a
general SSE. direction, dividing it into two nearly equal parts.
Three chains of mountains, generally parallel, averaging 3,000 feet
above the plain and about fifty miles apart, lie to the west of the
Pecos, the easterly range (called at the crossing of the 32d parallel
17
the Guadalupe mountains) being fifty miles distant from that river.
The strata of the valleys between these chains have been broken
through by the up-heaved mountains, and the ruptured edges lie
along their sides at altitudes from 600 to 2,000 feet above the lowest
lines of the basins between. From the notes accompanying the me¬
teorological observations, it appears! that the amount of precipitation
for the year in rain and snow is from four to five times as great upon
the mountains as it is upon the plains. Descending upon the sum¬
mits, it is shed along the faces of the hard rock until it reaches the
upturned edges of the broken and porous strata, through which it
percolates. The water is thus intercepted from running over the
country below, and forms reservoirs beneath the earth, which, if
reached by boring at any point lower than the source, must rise and
overflow the surface of the ground. The division of the region re¬
ferred to lying east of the Pecos is a vast undulating prairie, called
the Llano Estacado, or Staked Plain. It is a table-land, about 3,500
feet above the level of the sea, with a dip towards the southeast.
There is neither timber nor water upon its surface. It is subject to
the same influences as the valleys above referred to, except that there
is no mountain range at the east to correspond with the Guadalupe
mountains, along the base of which the western edges of its strata
outcrop.
The first point selected for boring was near the 32d parallel and
about fifteen miles east of the Pecos. The party reached this position
in the latter part of May, 1855, and the boring was commenced about
the first of June. In three and a half months the well was sunk to
a depth of 641 ieet, through sandstone, marl, and clay. At a depth
of 360 feet pure and clear water was reached, which rose to within
290 feet of the surface of the ground. About 200 feet lower, water
was again met with; and, at the lowest point attained, a third supply
of water forced its way up through the sandstone in which the boring
was being carried on. Here the rapid rising of the water so softened
and undermined the beds of clay and marl that the well caved in, and
it was found impossible to clear it. The details of these operations
were given in my last annual report. It was mentioned in this report
that the supply of tubing taken with the party, (500 feet) which,
from the character of the formation, had been deemed ample for all
the trials to be made, had been found insufficient for this well, and
that Captain Pope was obliged to suspend further boring upon the
Staked Plain until he could receive additional tubing, and had in the
mean time proceeded to the execution of the second duty assigned
him—that of ascertaining the practicability of constructing artesian
and other wells upon the route explored by Lieut. Parke between the
Kio Grande and the Gila rivers.
The point selected for trial was ten miles distant from Fort Fill¬
more, on the plain west of the Kio Grande. The operations were begun
here about the 1st November, and continued until the 15th Febru¬
ary, at which time a depth of 293 feet had been bored through a por-
phyritic detrital deposit, slightly united hy calcareous cemeirt, with
occasional beds of tenacious yellow and red clay. The boring, which
was very difficult, had not passed through this formation when the
2
18
party moved to the Pecos to meet the nevr supply of tubing, the arri¬
val of which at that stream was expected to take place about the 1st
of April. While the operation of boring was going on west of the
Rio Grande, a reconnaissance was made to ascertain the practicability
of boring artesian wells upon the Jornada del Muerto. The result, in
the opinion of the geologist, made it probable that, to be successful,
they must be carried to the depth of 1,500 feet, where the carboniferous
strata would be found that outcrop on the mountains east and west
of the Jornada. ProTu this opinion Captain Pope dissented, and gave
reasons, connected with the thickness of the detrital deposits and the
stratified rocks, composing in part these mountains, which induced
him to think that it would not be necessary to carry the wells to more
than half the depth assigned by the geologist.
The point west of the Rio Grande, where the boring was made, lies
in the continuation of the basin of the Jornada del Muerto ; the thick¬
nesses of the formations varying from those found in and near that
Jornada.
The party of Captain Pope arrived on the Pecos the second time
about the last of March, 1856, and resumed the borings for an artesian
well at a point five miles east of that where the work had been carried
on the previous year. Commencing to bore on the 5th of April, the
depth of 245 feet was reached by the IGth. Here water was encoun¬
tered, which rose 25 feet in the well, and remained at the level to
which the first water met with the preceding year rose. The new
supply of tubing was now needed, but it had not arrived. In my re¬
port to the department of November 29, 1855, it was stated that by
your directions measures had been taken to supply additional tubing
to Captain Pope in order that he might resume the work on the arte¬
sian well near the Pecos in accordance with his instructions.
This tubing was prepared in Philadelphia, and, after being inspected
by me, left there about the 20th January. It consisted of 1,200 feet
of wrought-iron tubes, 3 inches interior diameter, with a thickness a
little exceeding yV of an inch, cut in lengths of 9 feet, with screw
joints. As a precaution, 400 feet of l^-inch wrought-iron pipes, in
lengths of 9 feet, with screw joints, such as are used for boring rods,
were sent with the tubing, as they would doubtless be of use for other
purposes, if not wanted or not suitable for boring-rods. The tubing
and pipes reached New Orleans on the 5th February, and were shipped
in the steamer for Indianola on the Yth of that month. Long delay
occurred between Indianola and San Antonio, the roads being almost
impassable, and the supply of tubes and pipes did not leave San
Antonio until the 27th March, arriving at Captain Pope's camp on
the Pecos on the 29th April. As before stated, on the 16th April
the boring had been carried to the first water-bearing stratum, 245
feet below the surface, beyond which it could not be sunk without
the tubing. With the tubes a depth of 450 feet was soon attained,
when the third piece of tube from the bottom gave way, spreading
outside of and partly enveloping the piece below, and rendering it
impracticable to continue the well further. As much of the tubing
as could be got out was withdrawn, and the work again commenced
at the surface on the 20th May. At the depth of 676 feet the lower
19
stream, nearly approached the preceding year, was met with, the water
rising to within 110 feet of the surface.
The supposition formed last year, upon piercing a stratum of dark
blue shale, that the carboniferous strata of the Guadalupe mountains
would he entered near this depth, proved to be unfounded. On the
20th July a depth of 809 feet was attained. The report upon the
condition of the work at this date states that 1,200 feet of horing-rods
(wooden) had been taken originally with the party, hut at that time
they had been reduced by breakage, &c., to 860 feet. The hope was
however expressed that, with the use of the ash tent-poles of the
party and command, (the country not aíFording supplies of suitable
wood) the depth of 1,000 feet would be attained by the close oí
August, if water was not sooner reached. This anticipation, however,
was not realized. At the depth of 830 feet, the boring, after passing
through strata of clays, marls, and soft sandstones, entered hard sand¬
stone. On the 26th of August Captain Pope reported that the work
had been brought to a close at the depth of 861 feet, as his boring-rods
had been exhausted and all the boring material in his possession con¬
sumed.
The tubing sunk during the boring was left in the well, which was
so secured that the work may at any time he resumed. No new supply
of water had been encountered below that met with at the depth of
676 feet.
It is to he regretted that the boring could not have been continued
to the depth of about 1,000 feet, since there is great probability that
a large supply of water, overflowing at the surface, would have been
found, at or near that depth, coming from the permeable carboniferous
strata lying on the flank of the Guadalupe mountains. No information
having reached this office of an anticipated deficiency of horing-rods
or material other than tubing, no steps had been taken by me to supply
them. Previous to the arrival of the tubing at the Pecos, some appre¬
hension had been expressed that it would not admit of the use of the
same drills that had been used for the first well; the diameter of the
two sets of tubing proved, however, to be so nearly identical, that the
drills for the first were adapted to the second without serious difficulty.
Geological and topographical surveys were made, in connexion with
this work, on the lines traversed by Captain Pope's party. The route
near tbe 32d parallel, between the Pecos and the Bio Grande, was re-
surveyed, and the proposed railroad line modified and improved. Tue
Guadalupe mountains were examined for 75 miles, from tbe Southern
High Peak to the Lympia mountains, but no pass found so favorable
as that now traversed by the road, (the Guadalupe pass.) A new ex¬
amination of this pass has led Captain Pope to the conclusion that the
maximum grade, in following it, may be reduced from 108 feet to less
than 80 feet per mile. Water is to be found at intervals of less than
two miles, from this pass nearly to Ojo del Cuerbo. Forests of pine
line the summits of the range lor 30 miles north of the pass, and are
also found upon the adjacent mountain chains.
Between Ojo del Cuerbo and El Paso two new lines have been sur¬
veyed ; the first passing the Waco mountains, with a maximum grade
of 60 feet, and with a summit-level 200 feet lower than that of the
20
route pursued in 1854 ; the second line lengthening the route 10 miles,
but reducing the maximum grade to 40 feet, and avoiding the Waco
mountains.
It is reported by Captain Pope that an examination of the Llano
Estacado has developed an unfailing source of fuel in the mezquite
root which exists there in great abundance. The wood thus furnished
is of a hard and compact structure, and varies in size from three to
six inches in diameter, afíbrding a superior charcoal. Specimens ot
the wood and charcoal have been brought in for examination.
A topographical as well as geological survey was made of the Jor-
nadg. del Muerto and the country between the Rio Grande and the
Mimbres, and the mines of the Organ mountains examined, .<
Astronomical positions were determined at different points along
the routes traversed, and from data collected hj'' many months' obser¬
vations, a point was fixed in longitude near the intersection of the
thirty-second parallel with the Pecos river, and a stone monument
erected to mark its position.
Elaborate magnetic and meteorological observations were made
during the time that the party was in the field. These observations
embraced a period including the different seasons of the year, and ex¬
tended over lines connecting the low lands near the Gulf of Mexico
with the high table-lands of the interior.
The party of Captain Pope has recently returned to Washington,
and is now employed in preparing detailed reports of the operations
that have been conducted under his direction.
The geological and other sub-reports which accompany the reports
of the various surveys will form the subject of future notice., They con¬
tain material valuable in its bearing upon the construction and work¬
ing of a railroad, and in a scientific point of view. They are merely
referred to here ; the object now being to present only those general
topographical features which will be looked for with most interest, as
chiefly solving the question of the comparative practicability of the
different routes.
Certain maps, drawings, and scientific papers that were still in pro¬
gress at the date of my communication of November 29, 1855, and
which are intended to form part of the reports submitted by the first
exploring parties, have been, with one exception, completed.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
A. A. HUMPHREYS,
Captain Topographical Engineers, in charge.
Hon. Jeffeeson Davis,
Secretary of War.