Class _r 2W~i Book.£3.-W«_ DEWITT&SNELLINC UtW BOOKSELLERS PASADENA, CALIFORNIA Historical and Personal A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORGANIZATION OF THE INDIANA COLONY its establishment on the rancho san pascual and its evolution into The City of Pasadena. including a brief story of san gabriel mission, the story of the boom and its aftermath, and of the political changes and personages involved in this transformation. Churches, Societies, Homes, Etc. BROUGHT DOWN TO DATE AND FULLY ILLUSTRATED BY J . W ?^W O O D 1917 PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR All Rig Jits Reserved F&1 2^?o/£ 7 7 INDEX TO CONTENTS PAGE FOREWORD-DEDICATION 9 CHAPTER I. By Way of Introduction— The coming of the Padre— The Mission San Gabriel 15 CHAPTER II. Don Gaspar de Portola, the soldier of fortune— The native Indians— The pipe of peace— Something about the friars- Establishing the Missions— San Gabriel Arcangel— Christianizing the Indian 21 CHAPTER III. Dona Eulalia Perez de Guillen— A woman of many virtues who lived long— The Rancho San Pascual 30 CHAPTER IV. Col. Manuel Garfias, a soldier of fortune, and our first lady chatelaine— Love and war 33 CHAPTER V. The Rancho San Pascual— The new owner and his fortunes r 38 CHAPTER VI. Chronological Succession op Titles to the San Pas- cual Ranch— The Wilson and the Shorb families 43 CHAPTER VII. As It Was in the Beginning— The Indiana Colony makes a start — The memorable 27th of January, 1874 — The passing of the Don 47 CHAPTER VIII. Those Who Were Present- The "first families" of Pasadena 50 CHAPTER IX. The Genesis op the Indiana Colony— The origin of the "California Colony of Indiana"— Starting to spy out the land —The organization of the San Gabriel Orange Grove Association— Purchase of the San Pascual Ranch 53 CHAPTER X. Getting Busy in the Colony— The first house- Planting — Getting water — The affairs of the association 61 CHAPTER XI. Some Pests!— The cunning gopher, the pestiferous grasshopper and other friendly neighbors— The coyote 74 CHAPTER XII. Progress— A school and a teacher— The San Pascual School District founded— List of colonists, 1874-1875 80 CHAPTER XIII. Choosing a Name for the Colony— Origin of the name "Pasadena" and to whom it is due 85 CHAPTER XIV. A Sermon Is Preached and a church is organized, the First Presbyterian— Another church established, the First Methodist— Going forward 88 3 4 INDEX TO CONTENTS PAGE CHAPTER XV. Neighbors— The Lake Vineyard Colony— Its first settlers— A village center begun, and a postofnce— Settling on "dry" lands 92 CHAPTER XVI. Settlements About Pasadena— The Painter & Ball Tract, Altadena, Oak Knoll and San Rafael. . . , 100 CHAPTER XVII. More Progress— A postmaster, and a scholarly mail carrier 10S CHAPTER XVIII. Social and Fraternal amenities in the Colony— The first wedding— Williams Hall is built Ill CHAPTER XIX. Histrionic— Characters and properties— Williams Hall and its historic memories 118 CHAPTER XX. The Hunter and the Hunted— Sports and sports- men—The wild cat hunt— Some game— Frank Lowe's bear adven- ture, and others 124 CHAPTER XXI. Some Business Doing— Two citrus fairs— A stage line— Two hotels built— End of the first decade 136 CHAPTER XXII. The Boom— Sale of school lots— Advent of a R. R. — Millionaires of a day — An orgy in real estate— A city in two years— Facts and figures— A chapter of interest 144 CHAPTER XXIII. Busted!— The boom collapses— The aftermath with a thousand headaches 174 CHAPTER XXIV. Renaissance— The funeral of the boom corpse- Forgetting and going to work— A peaceful interval 186 CHAPTER XXV. Incorporation— Pasadena becomes a city— Candi- dates for office— Organization of the city and official roster to 1902 190 CHAPTER XXVI. The Municipal Baby growing too big for its clothes— New charter urged— Charter beaten — Another attempt and a charter adopted— A mayor and council 201 CHAPTER XXVII. Pasadena's First Mayor— M. H. Weight, his appointments— Contention and final agreement— Two parks ac- quired. Mayor Vedder— Weight defeated for a second term— Municipal water voted— Other things accomplished by Mayor Vedder. Mayor Waterhouse— Defeat of Slavin— Municipal water bonds de- clared invalid— The voters stirred up— Municipal light voted. Mayor Earley— Thomas Earley defeats Waterhouse— Earley makes campaign for municipal water— Bonds defeated twice— The Earley administration. William Thum Elected Mayor over R. L. Metcalf— Another cam- paign for municipal water— It is accomplished— Other accomplish- ments by Thum 207 INDEX TO CONTENTS 5 PAGE CHAPTER XXVIII. A Commission Form of Government Adopted —Primary election— Five commissioners elected— Assignment to official departments— Another election— Defeat of Metcalf and election of Creller— Election of Newell over Loughery— Call for a manager form of government — Defeated— A Board of Freeholders — New charter proposed— Discontent of those favoring the city manager system 217 CHAPTER XXIX. Whisky vs. Water— Pasadena's first saloon— The issue between factions and the end of the saloon— Blind pigs and ordinances pertaining thereto— Incorporation is the result— Ordi- dinance 45, and others— Charter amended— Contest on Amend- ments Nos. 10 and 11 222 CHAPTER XXX. The Newspaper Game— Pasadena's first newspaper and its fortunes— The Union and the Star — The way of the jour- nalist is hard 231 CHAPTER XXXI. Banks and Bankers— Pasadena's first bank and its founders— Banks and more banks— Trust companies and sav- ings institutions 245 CHAPTER XXXII. Hotels— Pasadena's first hotel, the Lake Vine- yard House— Isaac Banta— Two new hotels in one year— The Ray- mond—The Maryland— Linnard, the Napoleon of bonifaces— A hotel triumvirate 257 CHAPTER XXXIII. A Fire and a Fire Department— Organization of a fire company— Its present status 272 CHAPTER XXXIV. The Public Library— Its beginning— Its strug- gles—Acquired by the city— Its growth— Appointment of Miss Russ— Mrs. Dubois' promotion work 276 CHAPTER XXXV. Schools and Colleges— Many public schools... 286 CHAPTER XXXVI. Churches and Religious Denominations— Beginnings of the first church— Rev. Mosher and his good work — (Outline history of Pasadena's religious bodies, etc. 307 CHAPTER XXXVII. Transportation— The first railroad-The Los Angeles and San Gabriel Valley R. R.— Jewett, Washburn and Crank, railroad builders— Sold to the Sante Fe— Street car lines— The Terminal and Southern Pacific enters— The Pacific Electric, etc 329 CHAPTER XXXVIII. The Water Question— Story of water-Dif- ferences between the companies settled— Harmony and develop- ment 354 CHAPTER XXXIX. Municipal WATER-Vote to purchase all com- panies—The vote declared illegal— The purchase finally accom- plished—Many improvements CHAPTER XL. Municipal Light 374 6 INDEX TO CONTENTS PAGE CHAPTER XLI. The Postoffice— Story down to date 378 CHAPTER XLIL The Board of Trade— Organization of a body of usefulness— A mighty factor in the progress of the city— Things accomplished— City Planning Association— Merchants Association 384 CHAPTER XLIII. PARKS-Library Park- Central Park— Brookside— —La Pintoresca— Arroyo Park— Busch's Gardens 392 CHAPTER XLIV. Just Politics— Who's who in politics— Some of those who have been and some of those who are— The Americus Club— Rise of the Progressive, Hiram the Great 397 CHAPTER XLV. Pasadena's Historic Fete— The Tournament of Roses— Its origin and its originators— Part played by the Valley Hunt Club— Its growth and purpose 437 CHAPTER XLVI. Fraternal and Aid Organizations— Charitable and benevolent societies— The Red Cross, Navy League, Y. M. C. A., Y. W. C. A., etc 444 CHAPTER XL VII. The Grand Army of the Republic— Company I — Woman's Relief Corps, etc 459 CHAPTER XLVIIL Clubs— The Overland Club, Twilight, Cauldron, Shakespeare Club and others 471 CHAPTER XLIX. Business— Some industries— Cannery, manufac- turing companies and employers of labor 481 CHAPTER L. Trades Organizations and Unions 492 CHAPTER LI. Hospitals— Hygienic problems— Sewer Farm— Incin- erator 495 CHAPTER LII. The Alps of Pasadena— A look from the top of the world— Glimpse of a thousand peaks 500 CHAPTER LIII. Mt. Wilson Solar Observatory— Star gazing— A peep into vast distances 507 CHAPTER LIV. The Canyon Trails— The canyons near Pasadena- Mountain parks 514 CHAPTER LV. The Rain and the Seasons— Climate 524 CHAPTER LVI. Forest Fires and Reforestration 538 CHAPTER LVII. Some Cognate Facts Worth Knowing— The Old Mill 541 CHAPTER LVIII. South Pasadena- Our sister city 549 CHAPTER LIX. The Beginners— Those who started first lines in business 556 CHAPTER LX. The Final Words *. 559 2Det»ication To The Pioneer WHOSE HAPPY FORESIGHT AND STEADFAST PURPOSE FOUNDED A FAIR COLONY, AND MADE POSSIBLE THIS HISTORY, THESE CHRONICLES ARE AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY The Author Pasadena, Cal., 1917. FOREWORD CELEBRATED man once said that "History is only a recital of lies." Another, that "History was a lie that had been agreed upon." Now, if these men's words must be accepted at their own reck- oning, how dubious one must feel when he seeks, by printed page, to lay open the tombs that hold the secrets of the past ! Rather do I prefer the greater tolerance of a better sage who more aptly said that * ' History is the memory of a race and is to be written.' ' You and I, kind reader, must agree, if we will travel amicably through this volume, that it is a veracious record and must be accepted as such. For indeed, the labors and the patience required need at least that much confidence to make the task worth while. Had I the affluence of imagination and the poetic vocabu- lary of my friend John McOroarty, I could have made this reading more entertaining, I know. But in these plain hands history must have it limitations — at least while its subjects survive ! So I cling to facts, dull and prosy as they may be, oft desiring a wider horizon to soar and entertainment to seek. This history was "wished on me" by well intentioned friends who believed in its need. Really, I fear they may find some disappointment at its limitations, for I think they expected an encyclopedia of events. The most difficult task that confronted me was not what to include, but what to omit ! Pasadena has had no exciting epochs — barring the boom period — no events of wide interest; just the quiet, forward moving life that evolved a fine city from simple beginnings and a plain people. The reader will note that these pages have not given much space to personal eulogies. This may disappoint some who like this sort of writing. But it usually looks suspicious in local history and invites criticism — unjust, often. And then how could I, with due discretion and fair discrimination, be entirely honest ! Rather permit a future obituary to record the shining virtues of these distinguished citizens. For my- self, I will content me to attest their qualities and their merits 9 10 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL in a recital of their accomplishments — so one may read as he runs. Nevertheless, I cannot refrain from saying here a good word for a very few of the many who gave me such advice and assistance as was within their power. Particularly and most important, was the word that renewed oft flagging cour- age to continue my sometimes faltering journey. First, to Charles H. Prisk, who gave me access to old Star files, without which this accomplishment would have been nigh impossible ; Heman Dyer, who was indispensable ; and Harry A. Huff, valuable. To T. P. Lukens, to John McDonald, to C. D. Daggett, to W. H. Yedder, to C. V. Sturtevant and to N* G. Felker, I am especially under obligations. May Allah compensate them ! And there are others who did their bit. And to Doctor Beid's History — the wellspring of early facts — I am able to receive that return for once similar oppor- tunity — in a limited way — which through certain old files of papers, was vouchsafed him. Well, it has had its pleasures, has this task, for it has brought me close again to the golden past, when life was young, when the fragrance of nature was shed in its unalloyed abundance over this beautiful valley, when the soft breezes rustled through bending groves, and when the odor of the sage-brush and wild flowers mingled, and filled the nostrils with delight. Years from now, another historian will take up the pen where I have laid it down. Then, perhaps, all these actors will have rendered up their account and passed upon that long road, nevermore to turn back. He may be certain that "Not one returns to tell of the road, Which to discover we must travel, too." If this narrative will help him in his labors, that will be satisfaction in a large way to this writer. I finish this work with relief and with regret — relief that the onerous task is over, regret at the interruption of friendly dalliance with a loved theme. I must, before parting, crave the one favor — that I am absolved from egotism in writing these annals in the first person. I did so deliberately and for two reasons. First, because it is the pleasantest form of narrative; second, because I was thus able to continue an intimate fellowship with old friends all the journey through. PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 11 Finally, then, if I have given my patient reader pleasure enough, interest enough, and information enough, to sustain him throughout these pages and unto the very end of the book — that will bring me content! If not, there is no recourse, for — "The moving -finger writes, and having writ Moves on; nor all your poetry and wit, Shall hire it back to cancel half a line, Nor all your tears wash out a word of it." Most sincerely, The Author. BY WAY OF INTEODUCTION OME with me through this welcoming gate which stands open with beckon- ing invitation, and leads to busy thoroughfares, happy homes, and lovely gardens decked with fragrant flowers. Come with me through green lawns, and over sunlit paths whose flowering borders lead to rose bow- ered pergolas and secluded retreats. Come where the golden sunshine sifts in chastened floods upon smiling hill and valley, and fills the land with its happy radiance. Come with me and listen to the mocking-bird singing its celestial paeans and everlasting melodies. For I am leading you to a splen- did city, resting at the feet of mighty mountains whose peaks pierce the profound depths of benignant skies. I am shoAving you a city of clean, spacious avenues, of picturesque bungalows and spacious villas, set in Elysian gardens where soft zephyrs play in amorous dalliance. And I am recording in these pages, the history that made these things possible to us, and to those who follow us. And to the Pioneer I am giving a just mead of praise for his share in them. A GLIMPSE WITHIN The pioneers of Pasadena were not heroic adventurers who sought to face death by flood or field; or who chose, by preference, hazards and privations in that quest whereby they undertook to lay the foundations for new homes in a new land. No Homeric epic may be written upon enduring tablets to note for them deeds of valor or recount for them strange 13 14 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL adventures. Nor may minstrel sing of hairbreadth 'scapes by land and sea — to their glorification. For they were aver- age people ; or — we prefer to believe — just a little better than the average, and, consequently, too unpretending to acclaim, or allow to be acclaimed, the modest labors which resulted in the founding of this city. Therefore, I will refrain, in these pages, the indulgence in panegyrics or in over praise. Let the reader observe, as he rambles through them, the mere mention of deeds that were performed by these unassuming makers of history and construe them in his own generous way. In leading up to the actual historical achievements concerning Pasadena, the writer, in order to give a proper record, finds himself compelled to go back a long way into the past, to link together the important chain of events leading up to the foundation of the Indiana Colony, which, in time, became Pasadena. So, out of regard for chronological veri- ties, I have seen fit to include a brief history of the Mission "San Gabriel Arcangel," one of the finest specimens of Cali- fornia missions now existing, and thus make a perfect connecting link. The excuse for this, while sufficient in itself, lies also in the fact of its neighborly interest and does not need further apology. CHAPTER I San Gabriel Arcangel WHEREIN IS BRIEFLY WRIT- TEN THE STORY OF CALIFORNIA 'S FOURTH FOUNDED MISSION AND SOMETHING CONCERN- ING THE PADRES WHO FOUNDED IT AND THE GOOD WORKS THEY PER- FORMED. MISSION SAN GABRIEL, Founded 1771 THE MISSION GARDEN MRS. G. PACEARD-DU BOIS Where once the padres walked in days gone by, At peace, within this quiet, cool retreat, The great white sea-gulls, circling far, and high, The ocean coming, going at their feet, Is silence now. The roses bloom and die With but the soft, salt breeze to breathe their sweet. On crumbled wall the lizard basks in heat, And, far away, and clear, the curlews cry. Enter. The spell of time is over all. What wonder if beneath the palm trees tall A shadowy form be seem, a footfall heard, Or breathes again at dusk some whispered word From out that Old World pastf The padre y s sleep Beneath the arches gray is calm and deep. 15 16 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL OOKS, and other books, have been written about California missions; about the good padres who founded them; the noble enterprise they engaged in, and the meaning and success of that great crusade. The missions, themselves, are, in most cases, but reminis- cences of a heroic purpose ; and their architectural beauties— unique and striking — will be forgotten soon, unless methods are continued to preserve them from the devastating tooth of time. Many now are but heaps of brick and adobe — melan- choly reminders of their day and plan; but, thanks to the Landmarks Club of Southern California, efforts to protect and preserve some of them have been successful; and some, at least, will remain fitting monuments to the self-sacrificing efforts of their founders. If we glance at a map of California whereon is set down the "El Camino Beal," we behold a series of black dots, set apart, at more or less regular intervals, but following, in their general trend, the coast line from San Diego in the south to Sonoma in the north — a distance, altogether, of about seven hundred miles. These black dots are linked together by 8 fine line, and one is reminded of a string of black beads, or if more poetic, a rosary, bound by gossamer strands woven by vagrant spider, who, in his meanderings, has affixed his tenuous cables at regular intervals as he strolled on his jour- ney. The slender cable is "El Camino Seal" — the "King's Highway," and the dots represent the missions of the holy fathers, those evangelizing places established by them in that romantic and eventful pilgrimage, through fertile valleys and over sunny mesas, when they laid the foundations of a lofty and sacred purpose. Over these Highways the King's soldiers journeyed; and, came with them, the Fathers of the Church, in quest of new realms where they might plant their gonfalons in the name of conquest and their Holy Cause. Over this route Serra and his brothers made well beaten paths, for they traveled it often ; and in token of remembrance, they scattered by the way, seed of the yellow mustard, thus bordering their path- ways with a golden token to guide the future traveler. And the while, it may be added, as they set the foundations of their missions, they also gave them well sounding names, bespeak- ing thus the protection of some good saint or other — for that was the custom of the time. As has been said — PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 17 "To name them is to pray; For their names fulfill the chorus Of a thousand saints that o'er us Swing the censers night and day." The Mission San Gabriel lies south of the borders of Pasadena bnt three miles, in the old town of San Gabriel, now, alas, modernized and deprived forever of much of its once picturesque and sentimental glamour. Desiring to reach it, we, now, instead of as of yore making our pilgrimage by the Camino Eeal, go by modern trolley car, whose clamorous and rumbling wheels disperse the atmosphere of romance which in the past invested its thoroughfares. Long ago the pedestrian wended between low browed adobes, around whose thresholds clambered blooming Castilian roses over which betimes, passed sandal footed padres droning their litanies. From these casements once peered dark eyed senoritas who, half hid, listened to the strains of gallant troubadour as he breathed his ardour and his devoirs from the calle below. Earely, now, may be heard the enamored gallant, as in the old time ways. He may twang his guitar, and does so indeed, but it is in the more modern manner, reclining on the door step, on the piazza, or within the family walls, instead of under latticed window and scented bower with a f riendlymoon looking on. The modern street of San Gabriel — now traversed by noisy cars and ill smelling automobiles — was its chief calle in that time, and the Mission, that was begun before the liberty bell chimed its defiance to king and potentate, was the center of all activities — religious, social and commercial ; for within its walls were taught all of these principles upon which the mission enterprise was founded. The adobe of those days has, in most cases, given way to the more modern brick busi- ness place, or the frame bungalow. Happily, however, some remnants yet remain of the days before came the Gringo,* the "Yanqui" invader. When the Gringo came with his Yankee innovations, the old atmosphere departed forever, the glamour and the pictur- * Charles F. Lummis says " Gringo' ' is an old Spanish word, current in Spain a century before any English-speaking person ever saw Mexico. It is a corruption of "Griego," but was corrupted in Spain and not in this country, and not on account of the ' ' Tenderf eet ' ' who came to Mexico. It is recorder in Spanish dictionaries of 1878 and earlier. 18 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL esque gave way before the material and practical money maker. Perhaps this was necessary for human progress : that the rattle and bang of railroads and the belching smoke of manufacturing plants displace the romantic and the senti- mental; yet the vanishing of a picturesque period and its people must, nevertheless, not be permitted to pass into the oblivion of forgetfulness without some record being made of that period and of that race. Therefore, let this history do its brief part, and its pages acclaim a noble cause, of which these mission walls stand signal reminders. When the padres invaded California for the purpose of establishing the Holy Cross among the aborigines, they found in them a simple people, living primitive and purposeless lives — a mere existence in fact — just as exist millions of other beings, more luckily born, upon this earth ; who live and pass through a process, then die, leaving no excuse as to why. To these Indians, living was a mere routine of lazy indul- gence. True, they sometimes engaged in the milder forms of the chase, when hunger compelled or primal inclinations prompted. They might sometimes bathe, if ablutions meant mere aquatic pleasures ; but not, usually, perhaps, in the desire for sanitation. They have been charged with having some kind of religion — a God to worship — by historians who endeavor to endow them with elevated characteristics and noble sentiments. Perhaps those Indians had some sort of creed, or belief — most Indians have — and the great Father or Spirit had a significance as deep and impressive to their simple minds as does the Christian God to a Christian race. For the primitive mind cannot contemplate great natural phenomena without being impressed by them, as mysteries ever will impress. The power that can send the sun on its daily course, cause thunder and rain and snow, must be a wonderful one indeed, hence should be worshiped. But these people had never before heard of the Christian's God. It behooved the Church to evangelize this untutored people and bring them into the fold. Thus, when the King of Spain was besought by the Fathers of the Church for the privilege of sending missionaries into the faraway California — so far that even its geography was unknown — there to engage in the rescue of souls — the monarch acceded with kingly gener- PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 19 osity: that is, he gave them the privilege they asked with the added injunction that if they fared successfully, they could help themselves to whatever of the domain that might be found necessary for their enterprise, and annex the same to the Holy Church. So it came to pass that these mission- aries came to the strange land, took generously of its domain and proceeded to instill into the ignorant Indian some new ideas of life — here and hereafter ; and also a system of living heretofore inconceivable to him. History has shown how suc- cessfully this was done; how the padres, with a practical comprehension of life, taught the Indian to labor in new ways; to till the soil; to sow and to harvest; to plant fruit- bearing trees, and to plant vines and make rare vintages from them. Cattle and sheep were also introduced into this new existence, to later become the backbone of California products, in their day. Besides these endeavors came instruction in household affairs, new methods of cooking. The tortilla, or frijole, was made known, perhaps, also, chile con came, to regale with gustatory delight the heretofore unepicurean tastes of the noble braves, whose stomachs were not yet educated beyond such horrific things as lizards and grasshoppers ! Moreover, they were taught exemplary habits and morals — a system of living in accordance with a higher existence. And in a measure they succeeded in their efforts, did these crusaders of the church, and where ordinary mortals might fail, they made their impress deep and strong. Whether the subjects also absorbed the spiritual instillations who can tell? But they conformed, in externals at least, to the priestly admonitions, whatever may have been the reserva- tion deep down in their primitive minds. No less than twenty-one missions, in all, were thus estab- lished in California, beginning with that of San Diego de Alcala, whose foundations were laid June 16th, 1769, and ending with the San Francisco Solano, at Sonoma, in 1823 — fifty-four years afterwards. As noted before, and as shown by proper maps, these missions are located, as a rule, a day's journey apart; a day's journey meaning in those times the distance possible by plodding, patient Fray, afoot ; or by mule attached to creaking 1 ' carreta. ' ' So arranged, they afforded shelter and provender to wearied traveler at the end of each day's journey. Design- edly and with characteristic acumen, the missions were built 20 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL in fertile valleys by pellucid streams where the arts of agri- culture could be carried on. They were their own sources of support and more ; and in due time the excess crops were conveyed on mule back or in "carreta" to markets — the camps of the soldiers, usually — and there sold at a good profit. Thus from Mission to Mission traveled the Missionary on his errand of civilization, or in the behest of commerce, and never wearied of his purpose. And so the "Camino Real," or King's Highway, was established. Over these old roads, even today, so well were they planned, the more modern automobile speeds, guided to its destination by the modern made Mission bells in miniature, recalling to the contempla- tive mind the trails and the trials of Fray Junipero Serra and his noble band of argonauts of the Church. CHAPTER II The Joueneys of Don Gaspae de Poetola "Once more I see PortoWs cross uplifting Above the setting sun; And past the headland, northward, slowly drifting The freighted galleon." |ON GASPAR DE PORTOLA was a man of arms and noted for his adventurous disposition. A few years ago the people of San Francisco celebrated his name, and conferred upon him much fame ; and the state of California has written into its calendar of holidays "Portola Day," in commemoration of his discov- ery of the bay and the sand dunes where the city of St. Francis was later built. Yet this discovery, and Portola's great fame, was brought about through an error. Either because of poor maps, poor judgment or good fortune, Portola, who was in reality in quest of the bay of Monterey, stumbled upon the Golden Gate and post-mortem renown. To Don Gaspar de Portola adventure was meat and sus- tenance. He loved romance, for the blood of the conquista- dore was in his veins. He had heard of California,* and had been sent to Baja California (Mexico) to take over the Jesuit missions. The Crown, being desirous of confiscating these properties, wished to expel their Jesuit founders. Coinci- dentally, Fray Junipero Serra desired to adopt these very Missions for his Franciscan brothers, and was engaged in this undertaking also. It is a matter of history, however, that, harsh as was the edict of the Crown, it was carried out by Portola with consideration and mercy. Portola had been commissioned Gobernador to give him authority in his work. His great ambition was to travel north into the land of Cali- fornia on a voyage of discovery. These ambitions fitted well into the plans of Junipero Serra, for this zealous missionary * The name California, or Kali-f ornia, is of obscure origin and meaning, but the commonly accepted and most satisfactory origin is that it was applied by an ancient writer of romance to a strange island in the Pacific, peopled by a singular people. At one time California was supposed to be an island and was so called by old time geographers. 21 22 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL desired to bring under the tutelage of the church the Indians that he had heard were there in great numbers. Thus, in the year 1768, we find Portola in Loreto, Baja California com- pleting his work with the Jesuits as magnanimously as the decree permitted. This business finally attended to, he ar- ranged to accompany Fray Juniper o on his journey. Portola and his leather coated troops, servants and Indian attendants, started on the first stage of his journey to San Diego, and after many hardships incident to such travel arrived there in due season. To Portola there was also another incentive more urgent than the establishment of Missions. Somewhere in the far north was a bay which was named Monterey by another explorer, who told wonderful things about it. He was desir- ous of seeing this bay for himself, and gathering some of the wonderful rich pearls, said to be lying thereabout in profu- sion, as trophies of his adventure. This was the incentive in his mind when he rendezvoused at San Diego with his little band of forty-four persons, in the year 1768. Some recent historians ascribe to one Jose de Galvez the glory of originat- ing the idea of establishing the California Missions; thus poaching from Junipero Serra his long enjoyed credit. Father Galvez had a history that spells romance from its beginning to its ending. It read from a shepherd boy in Spain, then to Minister to India, with the title of Marquis. From that far land to "New Spain' ' he traveled, and in conjunction with Fray Serra, established the civilization of the Church. At all events he is entitled to be considered an able auxiliary, at least, of Fray Junipero, the most illustrious of all priests in the annals of California Missions. After two weeks' rest and recuperation the band of Por- tola departed from San Diego on its new adventures. There were all told sixty soldiers, servants and guides. There were included several priests, among whom were Frays Crespi and Gomez, also Governor Fages, who had replaced Portola as Governor. Luckily, Fray Juan Crespi was the chronicler of this expedition, as he was of others of the kind, and to his imagination and sense of the beautiful and harmonious we owe the euphonious appellations which he thought fit to apply to the places he passed by, and saw, on these journeys. As the historian of these expeditions he conferred the dignity and sentiment they required. to raise them into romantic pil- PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 23 grimages. In this capacity he has related, in minute detail, the incidents of travel and the momentous occurrences and adventures attending them. We should thank him in our hearts for the musical and felicitous names he applied to the valleys, and peaks, and streams of our beloved State. True, he drew frequently upon the Saintly calendar for his nomen- clature, but who can deny the propriety and harmony of such names as Santa Margarita, San Felipe, Santa Barbara, or our own Los Angeles and San Gabriel, as compared with their Anglicized congeners! How regretful we are that another Fray Crespi could not have been present, with authority when some streets of Pasadena were baptized; for then we might have been spared such discordant and tuneless examples as Worcester, Wapallo, Muscatan or Punahou ! But, if Portola 's expedition failed to find Monterey bay, it did discover a bay of far greater significance in its future importance to the world; for on November 7th, 1769, the beautiful portals of the Golden Gate were disclosed to the soldiers ' gaze, and the bay of San Fransicco was first seen by white men. With this discovery, Portola's name was written into the pages of California's history. Portola did not know then of the vastly superior importance that this discovery had above mere Monterey, for once again he essayed to find the object of his original quest. In April, 1770, on his second journey northward, he and his little band for the second time traversed the Valley of the San Gabriel, and upon a fine day arrived and found surcease from travel under the oaks and sycamores of South Pasadena. They found Indians in plenty, living in their primitive villages, and it is said that Portola smoked the pipe of friendly confidence with the head man, or Chief, one Hahamovic, who lived with his followers on the land where, seventy-five years later, was built the hacienda of Colonel Manuel Garfias and which is now the property of George W. Glover. It was the time of the year when blooming poppies blazed the slopes and mesas with their golden bannerets, and it was this flaming glory that begat the name " Copra de Ora," or cloth of gold, which sailors out at sea forty miles away, conferred upon the splendid sight. But these soldiers of Portola gave to this particular land the name which it afterward, in part, retained. It was on an Easter Sunday they arrived, and because of this, and upon beholding the striking beauty of the blooming pop- 24 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL pies, they applied the term "La Sabinalla de San Pascual," "The Grand Altar Cloth of Holy Easter" — hence it was that the Eancho San Pascnal received its name. Portola and his followers were perhaps the first white men ever seen by these Indians, and for that reason, and also for the fact that it was then that the desirability of this place for a Mission germi- nated, it later became the domain of the Mission San Gabriel. On the bank of the Arroyo Seco, near where stood the famous Garfia's hacienda, stands a fine spreading oak which has seen the suns of centuries. Upon the trunk of this tree can be faintly seen the form of a cross, now nearly overgrown and obliterated. It is given upon the best legendary authority that this cross was cut upon a day when the first religious services were held in this valley, these services being held beneath this spreading oak, the cross being made by one of the soldiers of Portola upon the visit above referred to. Just a few yards away is the "Garfia's spring," where the family sought libations on occasion; where children played, and romance dwelt, long years ago. It was in September, 1771, that another expedition, consisting of ten soldiers, some muleteers and servants, in command of two priests, Fray Pedro Cambon and Angel Somero, traveled north from San Diego and arrived in a few days on the banks of the Eio Temblores, a branch of the San Gabriel. Here it was decided was the place to establish a Mission, the fourth of the Cali- fornia chain. This was done, and it was named the Mission San Gabriel Arcangel; later, when it had been abandoned because of damage by erratic floods, known as Mission Vieja, or "Old Mission." When the storms of winter came and mountain streams flooded the valley, it was found an undesir- able location, and after four years a new site was sought. The ruins of the "Old Mission" may yet be seen where originally founded 146 years ago. Lo the Poor Indian I have said that Portola exchanged a smoke or two with Chief Hahamovic and received proper courtesies at his hands. I cannot say that it was good tobacco that was smoked, for it is doubtful that the true Virginia weed was extensively known to the Indians, but probably a wild variety. What kind of conversation was carried on and the subjects discussed can be conjectured, for the Indian knew not the white man's Ian- PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 25 guage and had little, in fact, of his own, and the worthy sol- diers certainly knew nothing of the aboriginal's dialect. It must have been a "Quaker Meeting" conversazione — so to say ! However, the red man deserves that respect due to an antiquity of ancestry which some families gladly pay for! No one knows the origin of these races of California Indians ; all information is but guesswork. There were numerous villages of them scattered throughout the valley, and, in fact, all over Southern California. Each clan had its head man, or "chief," usually an hereditary dignity, and a simulation of laws prevailed. One of these "clans" was located on Bay- mond Hill, one at Oak Knoll, one near Devil's Gate in the Arroyo Seco, one in Millard's Canyon, and the one which Hahamovic was head was located at Lincoln Park, in South Pasadena. The chief, Hahamovic, was taken into the bosom of the church, became baptized under the name of Pascual, afterwards married a Spanish woman named Angela Seise, and "lived happy ever after" — or at least to a very old age. In 1775 another Mission building was begun — a few hun- dred feet north of the present Mission. The new building was also built of adobe. Then, in a few years came a temblor or earthquake, which wrecked the newer edifice and rendered it unfit for permanent use. Persistent in their purpose, the indefatigable Frays began the construction of a larger and more substantial Mission, this time using burned brick and stone to fortify its walls. This is the Mission San Gabriel as seen today, differing little except that in the original there was a belfry, or tower, and the roof was of burned tile. An earthquake in 1804 destroyed the tile roof, which was then replaced by shingles. So it stands, modernized, yet still bear- ing the conspicuous features of the original Mission archi- tecture. When the Holy Fathers settled down in earnest to their work of proselytizing, they lost no time. The Indians were pressed into the labors of the day, and there being no trades unions, accepted the conditions offered, which were hard work, something to eat, and prospects of their souls' salvation — a new vista for them! They were instructed in manual labor and their hands built the Mission, under the guidance of more competent Spanish instructors, of course. Thus they were taught to serve the Lord and their new masters at the same time. Seeds, plants, vines and trees were brought from Spain 26 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL or from New Spain (Mexico) and those neophytes ("Chris- tianized" Indians) were taught to plant and care for them. Gradually, the Aboriginal was led from his primitive habits and customs. In the past labor with them had been done mostly by proxy, i.e., by their wives, they looking on in satis- fied content. But as they lived the simple life, subsisting upon berries, the cactus pear, succulent roots or nuts, which the trees in paternal beneficence dropped at their feet, the labor was not arduous or prolonged. Game was abundant and fish to be had in the mountain streams, if the "buck" was unusually zealous. Even the festive grasshopper added much to the delight of a meal ; and the meat of the rattlesnake was the piece de resistance of epicurean festivities. Of any higher culture there was no evidence. Metates, or mortars, and pestles are yet turned up from the soil which in their day served to grind grain and nuts they used for food. Little clothing was worn, especially by the men. In winter, some- times a mere coating of mud served to protect from unusual cold. In later years, perhaps under the instructions of Span- ish hands, the women of these tribes became expert in making baskets, whose artistic design and figuring have made them of great value to the collector. Some of these collections, particularly those made by Mrs. Belle Jewett and Mrs. T. S. C. Lowe, were of exceptional merit, but have scattered since the death of their collectors. Christianizing the Indians It required time for these novices to become sufficiently familiar with their new arts to make themselves really useful. Also, it required time to inspire confidence in their new mas- ters — for they became Masters — and the process was not always through affectionate persuasion; but it was coming. An irrigation system was built into the canyon back of Mon- rovia (Sawpit) and water brought down. Fields of grain, vineyards and orchards, sprang up and bloomed where here- tofore the cactus and chaparral snugly harbored the long- eared jackrabbit and the horned toad. It is said that no less than four thousand Indians submitted to the new regime, became members of the priestly family and useful beings with a new purpose in life, under the domination of the Frays of San Gabriel. PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 27 It was a raw but willing, or at least obedient, material, and thrift and prosperity followed the labors at the Missions. This transformation came not in a day or a year; but the padres were patient and time to them had no significance, for upon the death of one, another took up his labors without interruption. Aside from the agricultural pursuits taught them, the women were initiated into heretofore mysterious things regarding morals and household craft. The use of the needle was made known. With the soldiers from Mexico had come some wives of them, who made their homes about the Mission and became useful instructors for the Indian women in new ideas of domestic life. Some of these soldiers estab- lished permanent homes and raised families whose descend- ants are now good California citizens. Thrice daily, at the sound of the Mission bells, the neo- phytes bowed their heads in token of submission to the new creed and their new masters. In the evenings, when the last regular meal of the day was eaten, they gathered within the Mission walls and listened to the admonitions of the padres, repeated their aves and sang a salve to their new God. Per- haps they had but faint comprehension of the meaning of all these things, but, at least, they were better fed and had more interest in life than formerly. The wise priests, after the usual religious services, permitted them to engage in amuse- ments. Dancing was one of these — no tangoes, of course! Thus were the childish minds captured and their hearts con- tented, and thus they were held in useful control. Doubtless there were occasions when more strenuous, even seemingly cruel, methods were indulged in. Fray Zalvidea, who assumed charge of this Mission in 1806, was one of the kind who displayed — according to repute — less gentleness and more severity of discipline. Perhaps conditions demanded this ; at any rate, Fray Zalvidea proved himself a good admin- istrator, if a hard taskmaster, and greatly advanced business affairs at the Mission. Los Angeles — nine miles distant — had been growing into a somewhat important pueblo. It was the western terminus of the great Santa Fe trail, over which traveled hosts of adventurers from the East who dreamed of fortunes out where the sun set, and journeyed with their ox teams, their mules and their horses, to the land of promise. The wharves of San Pedro were, even in those early days, important, and from 28 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL them sailed ships laden with the products of the fertile valley. Hides, tallow and wool from the sleek, fat cattle and sheep that browsed npon the verdure of the sunny hillsides ; vintages from the vines that clustered on valley and mesa. From the dimpling grain fields was sent loads of wheat and barley; and from the olive groves oil equal to that from the hills of Sicily. In time the Mission San Gabriel gathered about it families from Mexico and Spain, who set up their lares and penates and the Mission prospered. When the weary traveler by the Santa Fe trail came upon this fertile, smiling settle- ment, where wine and food was offered him in generous quan- tities, he halted and partook of the hospitalities that greeted him. The newcomers gladly exchanged their gold for the fresh fruits and other highly satisfying provender, and halted for a time in the smiling sunshine. So the Mission and its people reaped prosperity therefrom. Thus matters continued for many years, until about 1813, in fact. The prosperity of the church and the fertility of the land had become known. The Junta in Mexico became desirous of possessing the rich soil of upper California. An edict was passed and the church deprived of its entire landed possessions. This was called " secularizing, ' ' and although this decree was not strictly put in force until twenty years afterwards, its effects were immediate, and in the end disastrous. Under the decree the Missions became mere parishes, the Indians being given small parcels of land for their own uses and homes were provided for them. The result of this new dispensation became demor- alizing, for these simple people could not manage themselves, the Missionaries foreseeing their authority gone and their control over the Indians lost heart. All their achievements had come to naught by a stroke of the pen ! It was easy to see that these aboriginals, bereft of any strong authority, would readily revert to their original condition — or worse. For they had a taste of civilization ! Parishes were to replace large land estates and the incomes thus be lost to the Missions. Without adequate income, what could be done? And this is what did happen. The author- ity gone, the Indians gradually dropped back again to their primal condition and became like sheep without a bell- wether. The tribe of Hahamovic, of the Isanthcognas and the Arvignas became scattered and were known thereafter as but PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 29 a memory, and the years of labor of the Missionary Frays were annulled and their wards scattered and lost to them for all time. But the Mission San Gabriel still rears its walls and asserts its purpose, as sings Bret Harte — "Bells of the Past, whose long forgotten music Still fills the wide expanse, Tinging the sober twilight of the Present, With color of romance!" CHAPTER III Dona Eulalia Peeez de Guillen concerning a woman of many virtues who lived to an extraor- dinary age, doing many benevolent things the while. and her connection with this story. |E are approaching the link that connects the San Gabriel Mission and its lands with onr own Pasa- dena ; and in telling the story mnst of necessity, as well as by disposition, introduce a remarkable and worthy lady who was noted not only for her chari- ties and benevolent deeds, but for the remarkable length of life she attained. Her fame still lingers about the Mission walls, and the remembrance of her strong personality is told, even now, by some of the older residents of San Gabriel. This noted lady was Dona Eulalia de Guillen, born Perez. The Dona de Guillen was not of " noble' ' blood, but of good Span- ish extraction and was born in "Lower" California in 1735. She came to San Gabriel with her husband, who was a soldier of Spain, about the year 1800, being then sixty-five years of age. She then began her career of practical benevolence, which included nursing the sick, teaching the ignorant Indians housewifely arts, and acting as midwife upon occasion; and by these acts ingratiated herself into the notice of the padres, who fully appreciated her meritorious deeds. When the Junta of Mexico took steps to secularize the mission lands, Fray Zalvidea was in charge of the San Gabriel Mission, and foreseeing the consequences, decided to show his appreciation of Dona de Guillen's activities while he had the ability to do so. In this way came about the presentation to her of a deed to no less than 14,000 acres out of the north- west corner of the Mission lands. One might call it a hand- some gratuity indeed, when it is known that these lands embrace the very soil upon which Pasadena stands ; and much adjacent land as well — the entire San Pasquale Eanch, as known to map makers. This gift was made in 1826, just prior to Fray Zalvidea 's departure to San Juan Capistrano, to which place he had been ordered. Now one might think that 30 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 31 with such a benefaction as this the good lady would have been blessed and forever relieved from fear of need. Niot so, how- ever; she was ninety-two years old at the time, and without money. It was the law that gifts of crown lands must needs have certain conditions complied with, to confirm them. The important one that the Dona de Guillen could not comply with was that it must be stocked with cattle. The gift was duly ratified on Easter day, 1827, and because of the day was named "Bancho San Pascual," or "Easter Day Ranch,' ' the meaning it had in English, as heretofore explained. Perhaps it was because of indifference, but most probably because lacking financial ability to stock the land as stipu- lated by law, the proper requirements were not carried out. No cattle, sheep or horses were placed upon the lands, and also, she even failed to place upon record the deed of convey- ance. No trace of it can be found in our County archives. Nevertheless that the gift was made is a fact. Perhaps the old lady, knowing her inability to stock the ranch, felt also the uselessness of recording the title thereto. The law was doubtless a good one and prevented promiscuous land grabbing. So for these reasons, the good Dona lost her broad domain, although a putative husband of her later years unsuccessfully endeavored to revive the title. When greatly advancing years incapacitated this lady from following her usual pursuits, she became very poor. At one time — in 1876 — she appeared before Judge O'Melveny of Los Angeles, in charge of a daugh- ter, who claimed for her a right to appear at the Centennial Exposition, at Philadelphia, as an evidence of the effect of California climate on health and longevity ! The old lady was then 141 years of age and still sprightly. The Judge reprimanded this daughter, and another one appearing with Attorney Stephen M. White to oppose the request, the first daughter was compelled to give a bond of Rye hundred dollars to insure the order of the Court "that the mother be kept at her home and properly cared for," which agreement was duly entered into then and there, and probably kept. Old residents visiting San Gabriel will remember this old woman as an object of curiosity because of her great age. She looked the part, too, being much wrinkled and withered, her face like a russet apple, gnarled by keeping overlong. But her bright and friendly eyes, as well as her simple words 32 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL of greeting, indicated a lively intellect to the end, almost. She died at San Gabriel, June 8th, 1878, being then 143 years old, and lies in the little cemetery there beside her first hus- band — who died in 1816 — and the many friends whose birth she attended and at whose funerals she had given kindly assistance. Four daughters survived Dona de Guillen, one marrying one Ora Lopez, son of Claudeo Lopez, builder of the Old Mill; another Michael White, an American, and another a Mr. De la Ossa. Some persons may be skeptical about the age of this good lady, but the records in San Diego County show the date of her baptism. Instances of extreme age are well known among Spanish people. There used to live in an old shack in the arroyo near the Devil's Gate, a Spanish woman named Lugo. She was known as "Old Francesca," and when she died — about 1896 — she was said to be 107 year old and was active unto the end. Another old lady who died at San Gabriel some years ago claimed to be 110. Peace be to the bones of Dona Eulalia, the first white owner — nominally at least — of the Eancho San Pascual. It is the duty of all loyal Pasadenans to remember her in their prayers ! CHAPTER IV Colonel Don Manual Garfias and Our Lady Chatelaine THE ROMANCE OP A GALLANT COLONEL AND A LOVELY LADY AND WHAT RESULTED THEREFROM. THE RANCHO SAN PASCUAL'S NEW OWNERS AND THE STORY OP THEIR VICISSITUDES OF FORTUNE. E have seen how the own- ership of the | " Easter Day Ranch," the Rancho San Pascual — orPasqnale — was forfeited by its first owner. Now comes a gallant son of Mars, fresh from the wars, handsome and poor ; as of course must ever a romantic hero be. I am introducing Colo- nel Manuel Garfias, of the staff of one Gen- eral Micheltorena, one of the governors of California. It had come to pass that Micheltorena had decided to visit South- ern California and pay his respects to Governor Pio Pico, who ruled the destinies of that section. Perhaps he was jeal- ous of Pico's popularity and growing power. At all events he gathered together a little army, and with a gallant staff surrounding him, proceeded southward to the pueblo of Los Angeles to look into the affairs of Pico, the renowned. Need- less here to relate, there were no " battles,' ' nor was gun- powder burned on this occasion. Battles in those days, compared with modern battles, were pleasing episodes of merriment. Micheltorena landed in San Diego, making his headquarters there, and found things apparently all right and the occasion resulted in an exchange of agreeable ameni- 33 RUINS OF THE GARFIAS ADOBE 1874 34 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL ties between the two governors and their supporters. The land barons of Southern California, the noble Dons of their time, opened their doors in hospitable generosity to the offi- cers of Micheltorena. Instead of exploding gunpowder, they opened bottles, ate chile con carne and other comestibles. The tinkling guitar was heard, and in lieu of battle cries, sounds of revelry prevailed. Love passages were an agreeable sub- stitute for belligerency to these brave troopers. They were the good old times, when life meant a succession of pleasures each day, and "manana" was its slogan. The Dons had the means and inclination, and their fair daughters and gallant sons were glad to open the gates of the great "haciendas" to the ever welcome visitor, who was never asked for the where- withal to pay, even were he a stranger to the house and a wayfarer in the land. Contemporary annals say the Span- iards of California in those days were gallant, chivalrous and care free; the Senoras hospitable and good natured; the daughters beautiful, gracious and coquettish. Into this charmed life came Colonel Garfias, poor, handsome and brave. He became a favorite everywhere and fell a victim to the allurements surrounding him. It was natural. The toast of the pueblo Los Angeles and all the country- side was one Senorita Luisa Abila, whose beauty was cele- brated, even among the many charming belles of the day, and for whose hand many gallants had sued, but as yet, unsuccess- fully. It was not strange, then, that the soldierly figure of Colonel Garfias, with the halo of romantic interest that ever surrounds a warrior, should attract the fair Luisa and cap- ture her attention. Nor, on the other hand, that the son of Mars should fall a victim to her lovely charms. A fair match, you may agree, and doubtless mutually approved, for it was not long ere the troth was pledged and announced. But family traditions must ever, with the old regime, be respected, even though Cupid might be ever so complaisant and dance ever so coaxingly along primrose paths. As I have said, Colonel Garfias was poor, neither was he of high caste, though eminently respectable. The daughter of a Don may not marry and relinquish her position. Here comes, then, the gracious Micheltorena to straighten out the tangle and cause the god of love to smile approvingly, and smooth away, with a word, the obstacles that loomed frowningly upon the lovers. Micheltorena, with PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 35 the easy generosity of the times, and a prodigality born of experience and expediency, simply granted his favorite Colonel the great Eancho San Pascual as a wedding gift ; and presto! the pathway of Mars was made smooth and easy. So the mere promptings of Cnpid, accel- erated by the witching eyes of the fair Senorita Luisa, became the easement of this baronial demesne ; the gallant Colonel became the hus- band of the famous Luisa Abila in January, 1843, and this charming lady became Pasadena's first "Lady Chatelaine ! ' ' But it was not Colonel G-arfias himself who -took charge of the gift, but Dona Abila, his wife's mother, for she it seems had both energy and ability. A foreman was placed in charge of the estate, and he lived in the little adobe south of the Ray- mond the while, Garfias in the meantime holding some offices of trust in the pueblo of Los Angeles, then having a population of about 3,000 souls. Dona Abila was of most excellent family, being related to the Sepulvedas, one of whom was a County Judge, who afterwards distinguished himself in Mexico City in the practice of law, and was also financial agent for the Hearst estate of 2,000,000 acres in that country. He died in 1915. Colonel Garfias was now a Don by virtue of his estate, and with his good lady cut a figure in the social life of the County. Then bad blood arose between his old General and friend Micheltorena and Governor Pico, and Micheltorena came to settle things and to bring Pico to book. Pico was not back- ward himself, and met Micheltoreno 's army at Cahuenga, near Hollywood, and fought a battle there, mostly at long range, which lasted most of two days. One may guess the blood- thirstiness of said "battle' ' when it is stated that a mule or two were rendered hors de combat, but no human lives lost. Some Americans engaged in this "battle" on the side of Pico, DONA LUISA GARFIAS Pasadena's First Lady Chatelaine (In maturity) 36 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL HEADQUARTERS OF PICO'S ARMY STAFF Before Surrender to Fremont among them B. D. Wil- son, who was at the time Alcalde (Mayor) of Los Angeles. As could be expected, Gar- fias remained loyal to his former General Micheltorena and with some others joined him in this engagement. After the two days of combat it seemed like a "draw" to the op- posing governors and a truce was called. Micheltorena made terms with Pico, leav- ing him in his old posi- tion, and departed for Monterey with his troops. But Garfias remained in Los Angeles, as he was enabled to do under the treaty just made. This fracas occurred in 1845 and was the final one between California governors of the old regime. In 1846 the disturb- ance between the United States and Mexico was on ; the pos- session of California was threatened both by Great Britain and Eussia, both having longings for it. The United States had knowledge of this fact, and sent the "pathfinder," John C. Fremont, down to Los Angeles to anticipate this contingency and take possession of California for the United States. Fremont came, saw and conquered, and made himself a pictur- esque figure in history. There was a "battle," and General Andres Pico made a treaty with Fremont, January 13th, 1847, surrendering the country to the United States. This occurred at Cahuengo, near Hollywood. It is of especial interest to us to know in this connection that the adobe house standing just south of the Raymond Hotel was, during the invasion of Fre- mont, the headquarters of General Flores and his staff of Pico's army, which included General Andres Pico, the Gov- ernor's brother, Don Jesus Pico (a nephew), Colonel Caville, Colonel Castro and Colonel Garfias. Their little army was encamped amidst the sycamores which yet stand near the adobe house. In these headquarters a hasty council was held PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 37 and foreseeing themselves outnumbered and beaten, a plan of surrender was agreed upon and commissioners appointed to meet Fremont and offer terms. Governor Pico had retreated to his ranch and General Flores had been made commander-in-chief, as well as temporary Governor, by a recent act of the Legislature, met in special session at Los Angeles, and he selected Francesco de la Guerra and Fran- cesca Eico to meet Fremont to ascertain what terms could be made with him. This was preliminary to the Commission afterwards appointed by Pico to sign the compact. It is not part of this history to go into further details of this treaty. But it is interesting to know that Colonel Garfias, who, accord- ing to arrangements made with Fremont, was permitted to remain peacefully, but chose not to submit himself to Gringo rule, next day departed, in company with a score or more of companions, for Mexico, where he remained until the dis- turbance going on in that country was settled. In 1847 he was again in Los Angeles, by the treaty with Mexico having become an American citizen. Again settling down to poli- tics in Los Angeles, he in 1850 became a regidore, or Council- man, and a year later, County Treasurer. But the call of the landed proprietor was upon him, he wanted the distinction that befell the Don, in person. In 1852, therefore, he built the hacienda of adobe on the Eancho San Pascual, where he proposed to set himself up as a land baron like his fellows. This hacienda was located on the bank of the arroyo seco, where nearby gushed a clear, sparkling spring of the purest water. The spring is still gushing forth in a bubbling stream, but the hacienda has long since been scattered in the dust of the surrounding fields. To the completed hacienda came the Garfias family in 1853. Two children, daughters, had been born to them by then, and they began their residence under auspicious circum- stances. CHAPTER V The Bancho San Pascual GIVING SOME DESCRIPTION OP THE GREAT RANCHO AND OP THE AFFAIRS OF ITS SUCCESSIVE OWNERS. THE MISFORTUNE OP THE GARFIAS FAMILY AND THEIR EFFACEMENT FROM THESE CHRONICLES. THE LIFE OF THE DONS AND THEIR UNBUSINESSLIKE SYSTEM. HE Rancho San Pascual — or San Pasquale, as it is now generally spelled — covered all of the area from the west bank of the Arroyo Seco to Lamanda Park on the east ; northward to the mountains ; and south- ward to the area reserved for the Mission, including South Pasadena, the Wilson ranch and the present Hunting- ton place of San Marino — once part of the Wilson estate and later the property of the Shorb family. It comprised, as before stated, 14,000 acres — three and a half square leagues — a sightly and fertile domain fit for founding a family or per- petuating a princely heritage. It would be pleasant for this scribe to write here of the happiness and prosperity of the family of Garfias, so auspiciously begun under indulgent and nattering auguries. Unfortunately, however, Don Manuel Garfias was less of a rancher or stockman than a soldier; fonder perhaps, like his kind, of the " camaraderie ' ' of his fellows than of the duties pertaining to the business of a land owner. Yet he was ambitious to live as other large land owners of the day, and he was raising a family. When he decided to build his hacienda he wished to build a good one ; but he lacked the coin of the realm to do it. What then easier than to borrow it? His friend, Dr. John S. Griffin of Los Angeles, was ready to loan it to him — at four per cent per month ! Usurious ! I hear exclaimed ; true, but in those pip- ing times this was not an excessive rate, as high as twelve per cent, per week, having been known as not uncommon ! Land was the cheapest thing there was ; it was plentiful, therefore poor security. Morris Newmark, in his Memoirs, relates a case wherein $200 was loaned on a rancho at twelve per cent weekly. It was then the custom to allow the interest to run until the principal was due, no matter how many years. In 38 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 39 this instance the debt, with interest compounded weekly, as was agreed, amounted to, when finally called for, $26,000! Of course, the "capitalist" took the ranch. Garfias had a son born to him on this ranch in 1853, Manuel E., and in 1855 another, Mariana Jose, the first white children born on the rancho. Then, still scenting the smell of gunpowder, or perhaps disliking the call of the soil, he once more sought his old calling and went to Mexico, where he fought in the cause of President Juarez. Back he came to the rancho and domestic life. In the meantime the interest on the little mortgage — only forty-eight per cent per annum ! was working industriously, as interest will invariably do — day and night. It is the businesslike way that interest has. No doubt Garfias was astonished when called upon to pay by Dr. Griffin. He couldn't pay. The upshot was that Dr. Griffin paid him $2,000 additional and took over the whole ranch, stock and everything else on it. The $2,000 was sup- posed to be for the stock and utensils. Censorious critics may accuse Dr. Griffin of a "freeze out," yet there are men yet living in Los Angeles who will say that the Doctor paid more for the ranch than it was worth at the time. "Two bits" (25 cents) an acre was then considered a fair price for land such as this — grazing land. The whole of East Los Angeles was sold to William Workman in 1856 for fifty cents per acre! The city owned it and much other land that it obtained when the capitulation was made. Thus passed from her beloved acres their first lady chatelaine. As was befit- ting, and as we like to believe, she was beautiful and as gra- cious as she was beautiful. About her memory there will ever cling a sentiment of romance — the romance of her people and of her time. It would be a fine thing to follow her declin- ing years with happy circumstance of attending comfort and of luxuries befitting a noble dame. Alas, facts will not per- mit! The good lady was so far reduced in fortune that, while living in San Diego in the last years of her life — where she had come after her husband's death — friends in Pasa- dena, in 1898, endeavored to raise a sum of money for her assistance! Then a widow, her family scattered in foreign countries, her beauty departed, this once belle of Los Angeles was reduced to distressful circumstances. As for Colonel Garfias, with fortune broken, he had again gone to Mexico seeking more propitious opportunities. We hear of him being 40 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL appointed United States Consul at Tepic by President Grant in 1870, and Consul at San Bias from 1873 to 1877. He died in the City of Mexico, November 20th, 1895. The son Manuel E., first white (Spanish) child born on Eancho San Pasquale, followed the military instincts of his father and was killed in 1893 in an uprising in Honduras, having become a Colonel by that time. The brother of this boy, Mariana Jose, also born here, became a lawyer in Mexico and was a delegate to the World's Fair at Chicago in 1893. He is yet believed to be living in Mexico. Thus passeth from this history, and all concern with it, the family Garfias. Perhaps the shades of the gallant colonel and his fair lady may sometimes wander amidst the syca- mores that grow in the arroyo, upon whose banks they once reposed in happy days. Perhaps, now and then, they again come to quaff at the crystal spring that gushes from these banks and listen to the mocking birds' carols. If they do, I trust that Judge Glover, from his nearby home, will show them the courtesies due returning fanes to deserted home- steads. The abandoned hacienda fell into decay ; its roof dropped within; its beautiful green blinds (a rare adjunct to an adobe), no longer jealous of flashing eyes within, hung in desolate dejection from broken hinges. Then, when Judge Eaton built his home upon a nearby site, he removed some of the heavy timbers and used them in his new house — now incorpo- rated in the home of Mrs. Sherman Hoyt. George W. Glover acquired the site of the Garfias hacienda many years ago, and loves to sit in the shade of its old trees and recite his harrow- ing adventures of frontier life. In 1858, Benjamin S. Eaton, who had brought his first wife to California for the benefit of her health, took charge of the Eancho San Pascual for his friend Dr. Griffin. The death of his wife in a few months caused Eaton to leave it, and the hacienda was vacant, once again. I have noted in a preceding page how the first white (Spanish) owner of the Eancho San Pascual, Dona Eulalia Perez de Guillen (nomi- nal owner only), failed to secure her rights as owner of the same. As a matter of historic fact, notwithstanding her neglect and failure to conform to the law in this respect, she, or rather some of her heirs, endeavored to revive a title. When she had become almost a centenarian, a Castilian named PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 41 Marine appeared at San Gabriel, courted and married her! He had acquired a little home in San Gabriel, but for some reason the two aged mates failed to live amicably together and parted, she receiving the little home and the husband accepting a deed to the Rancho San Pascual, probably believ- ing her title good, which, in fact, Governor Figueroa had declared it to be, and gave Marine a grant to it. Neverthe- less, the title was not good, for this grant of Governor Figue- roa did not stand. However that may be, a son of Marine afterwards sold his hereditary interest in the ranch to Jose Perez, a cousin of Eulalie de Guillen (1839) for "six horses and ten head of cattle.' ' This man Perez built the adobe below the Raymond, the headquarters of Pico's troopers, as heretofore related, and lived there for some time. The fall of the Gariias family fortunes is an illustration of the career of most of the proud Dons who owned princely estates in California at the time of Fremont's arrival. These great estates were given, by the lavish hands of governors, or by the Crown, to friends, or to the soldiers who distinguished themselves in some way. If the Governor wished to reward a follower, he simply requested him to take a horse (few Spaniards ever thought of walking), and ride north, south, east or west 'for so many hours, and the lands thus circum- scribed were his. Nothing was more plentiful than acres, and nothing suited the worthy Dons quite so well as to possess them, for with these estates came the distinction pertaining to the landed pro- prietor, and the means to display his natural bent. These estates must be stocked with cattle and horses, of course, and supplied the means of maintenance. Thus it occurred that Cal- ifornia was owned largely by the great landed Dons who were noted for their hospitality and the luxurious lives they lived. Peons did the work, while the sons lived a life of happy indif- ference to everything but the pleasures of the day. To them Monona was a bother to think about; today was sufficient. This method of living, ideal to them, brought about in the end their financial downfall and the eventual sequestration of their baronies. When the Gringo came with his Yankee shrewd- ness and love of gain, also his shining ducats, nothing seemed easier to the Don when he needed money than to get it from him who so cheerfully loaned it ! What was a mortgage more or less anyhow ? The end was inevitable and disastrous. In 42 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL a few years many of the Dons were living in tumbledown "adobes wherever they might find shelter, and the now hated Gringo occupied the great haciendas where the Caballero had once so gallantly wooed the fair senorita to strains of sweet music, in the glamour of bright moonlight, and with roses scenting the air. Alas for the improvident and confiding Don ! His descend- ants today are known chiefly by the repute of the family name, but not by their possessions, and it is one of the melancholy chapters of California's history that this is true. At least, they were picturesque figures whose like will nevermore be seen in this land ; the real and only romantic figures of Amer- ican life; grafted upon it, from the land of Don Quixote, but nevertheless performing an important part therein. Pio Pico, once great landed proprietor and worthy Governor, died in a tumbledown adobe with his pride humbled and his possessions gone. Others once as proud and rich in acres have been added to this record of confiding innocence. BEFORE THE GRINGO CAME In the quiet of the patio where the friendly sunbeams lie Sits Don Pedro, last descendant, of the glorious days gone by, Sits and dreams he of the glory of his father's house and fame As they lived in song and story long before the Gringo came. From his dreams there grew fair vistas, conjured up before his gaze, While the shadows grow and deepen, dreams he of the bygone days; y Tis a vision fidl of gladness, all the actors are the same — As they were when youth was with him, long before the Gringo came. Sees he fairest senoritas with alluring smiles and eyes, Hears again their happy voices, pledges, too, with tender sighs; Stands there yonder Don Francisco and beside him gracious dame; Forbears they of dreaming Pedro — long before the Gringo came. Proud senora, prouder senor, blood of noble house were they, But to thee, oh hapless Pedro, fate unkind hath come this day ; Lord of countless herds and acres, heir to once illustrious name, All are vanished — herds and acres; vanished since the Gringo came. CHAPTER VI Chronological Succession of Titles HE WHO AVOIDS DRY STATISTICS WILL NOT FIND MUCH EXCITEMENT IN THE IMMEDIATELY FOLLOWING PAGES ; BUT HE WILL FIND IMPORTANT FACTS IN THE CHAIN OF TITLE TO THE SAN PASCUAL RANCHO, AS RECORDED, SHOWING JUST HOW IT DESCENDED TO OUR COLONISTS FROM INDIANA. S noted in preceding pages, Manuel G-arfias lost title to the domain he received as a wedding dower, and Dr. John S. Griffin, a practicing physician of Los Angeles, speculator "on the side," obtained it. This happened in 1858, although the records of the county show that Garfias and his wife conveyed "all right, title and interest' ' in this same ranch on January 15th, 1859, to B. D. Wilson for the sum of $1,800. No explanation is given for this duplicate transfer, but it may have been merely to confirm title in Wilson's lands, already conveyed; or some possible equity in the same, that might yet remain. As both this transfer to Wilson and to Griffin took place prior to the real confirmation of title to Garfias by the United States, which did not occur until April 3rd, 1863, it might also be assumed that this was done so that no claim could be after- wards set up. Anyhow, so the records read. Judge Eaton, as has been said, represented Griffin in his occupancy of the premises at that time, and undertook to bring down the waters of the arroyo to some of the lands and otherwise lay the foun- dation for general farming. Eaton was an engineer, had been a newspaper man in several states and was, later (1865), a Judge of the Superior Court of Los Angeles County. On account of Eaton's brief residence on the ranch, his work was not finished during that period, but continued later, as will be shown. On December 11th, 1862, B. D. Wilson purchased from Griffin 640 acres for $500, of which he conveyed 262 acres to Eliza A. Johnston for the sum of $1,000. Mrs. Johns- ton was Dr. Griffin's sister. This purchase by Mrs. Johnston is of more than passing interest because of the part in National history that was performed by her husband, General 43 44 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL Albert Sidney Johnston. At the outbreak of the Civil War, General Albert Sidney Johnston was stationed at the Presidio, San Francisco, and was ordered to report at Washington. General Johnston was a Virginian and knew what the sum- mons meant, and instead of so reporting he sent in his resig- nation and joined the Confederate cause. At the battle of Shiloh, April 6th, 1862, he was killed, while gallantly leading his troops. It is said that he was shot through an artery of the leg, and was not aware of the seriousness of his wound, but while talking to a member of his staff fell from his horse and expired in a few minutes. Mrs. Johnston had remained on her ranch, which she named "Fair Oaks," from her own home in Virginia, and began to till it, under the management of Judge Eaton. It may be here added that Hancock Johnston, son of General and Mrs. Johnston, married Mary, daughter of Judge Eaton, and is now a resident, with his family, of Los Angeles. Judge Eaton again married and became, after the settle- ment of the Indiana Colony, one of its foremost promoters and advisers. His son, Fred Eaton, was mayor of Los Angeles one term, and it was from him the ranch where the great Los Angeles Aqueduct rises was purchased. Judge Eaton died in Los Angeles some years ago, but two of his daughters and son Fred are living there now. On the Fair Oaks ranch, which later was the residence of Judge Eaton, was demonstrated the successful propagation of grapes on "dry" land — i. e., without irrigation. Judge Eaton was also among the first to plant the Eucalyptus in California. He sold this ranch to J. F. Crank in 1877. Gen- eral Phineas Banning, the father of Hancock Banning of Los Angeles, formerly a resident of Pasadena, and of Captain J. B. Banning; who established Wilmington, and so called it from his "home town" in Delaware, became an owner in the San Pascual Banch, March 3rd, 1869. It is shown by the records that he purchased "all right, title and interest" of B. D. Wilson in said ranch for $35,000. Then immediately retransf erred it back to Wilson for $30,000. Perhaps this was no sale, but a business turn "between friends." Then we find that on September 23d, 1870, Griffin deeded ' ' an undivided half interest ' ' in the remaining part of the ranch to Wilson, and "all unsold claims therein," for a nominal consideration; there being less than half of the PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 45 original tract remaining; the Grogan tract (lying west of Lamanda Park) of 5,000 acres having been sold already. On June 20th, 1872, Griffin and Wilson deeded to Prudent Beaudry, lands lying on the west side of the Arroyo Seco con- taining thirty acres. At this time there remained, in joint ownership between Griffin and Wilson, 5,328 acres. In Decem- ber, 1873, a survey was made of this, followed by its partition between the owners, Griffin taking 3,962 acres and Wilson 1,366. B. D. Wilson built a fine ranch house on his place, and his family — those that survive — live there now. Wilson was a man of superior ability and took a prominent part in the affairs of his day. For a time he was Alcalde, or Mayor, of Los Angeles and also had some military experience here and with Indians while trading on western plains. He married Ramona Yorba, daughter of Don Bernardo Yorba, a great ranch owner. A daughter of Wilson married J. De Barth Shorb (of whom more anon), another named Hon. George D. Patton, a man of affairs and a recent candidate on the Demo- cratic ticket for IT. S. Senator. Patton occupies the old Wilson Hacienda at San Gabriel. Wilson purchased the Jerupa rancho, where the city of Eiverside is now located, from Don Juan Bandini for $1,000 per league (about 4,000 acres). Juan Bandini was the father of Arturo Bandini, of Pasadena, who married Helen Elliott, daughter of Dr. T. B. Elliott, one of Pasadena's founders. It has been said that Helen Hunt Jackson chose the title to her celebrated novel, Ramona, after meeting a daughter of J. De Barth Shorb, who possessed that beautiful name. This has been denied, but from regard for the former Miss Shorb, now Mrs. Major Murtaugh, U. S. Army, and a fair knowledge of her charming personality, I prefer to believe the story. We have traced the title of the rancho San Pasquale to Dr. Griffin, who sold it to the Indiana Colony; I will now take up the history of that body of pioneers who sought this new Jordan and who are the occasion of this history. CHAPTEE VIII As It Was in the Beginning — The Indiana Colony THE INDIANA COLONY MAKES A START. IN THIS CHAPTER IT IS RELATED HOW MEN AND WOMEN FROM INDIANA, IOWA, AND OTHER PAR AWAY PLACES, SET STAKES FOR NEW HOMES, AND OTHER MATTERS PER- TAINING THERETO. 'Midst the breath of a million blossoms And the sound of a songbird's lyre, Lies the Valley of Contentment, And the Garden of Desire. HE twenty-seventh day of January, 1874, must ever be a day of historical importance in the calendar of Pasadena. On this day, the pioneers, having previously purchased a domain upon which they were desirous of testing a hazard of new fortunes, met upon the land for the purpose of choosing, each for him- self, or for the friend he represented, the very spot whereon his future abode must be. On this momentous day, having thus met in a common purpose, having pooled their fortunes and ambitions, their experience in life and its affairs; above all, pledging themselves in their new undertaking by bonds of mutual regard and good will, they set their stakes with faith in the future that lay before them ; believing these smiling skies auspicious auguries of happy destinies. On this day, the Indiana Colony became a reality. It was born in Indiana, but it blossomed in the golden sunshine of California. That its history has justified the most sanguine expectations of its apostles and those who came after, will be seen by those who follow it. It is a delightful flight of the imagination — back over the intervening years — to picture the scenes of that fair January day, 43 years ago. Pioneers who participated in its events, happily yet live, and enjoy this retrospect, and can still indulge in the emotions which beset them then. Their reminiscences afford the historian of today, substance for his pen, and so the reader will indulge the chronicler, if he merely embellishes 46 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 47 these pages with some feats of imagination in his own behalf, while delineating the real events he wishes to recall. They had come far, from eastern homes, or from the places yet called "out west" by those who lived farther east- ward. They had been foregathering in Los Angeles ; then an unattractive town, crude and unpolished. And the promise was not propitious— yet. No pullmans landed them in sar- torial freshness upon this, the domain of their choice, the threshold of their future abode, and it was but natural that some were filled with apprehension and forebodings. Yet they did not show it if this was so, and we find them on this day gathered, prepared to choose their particular home sites and begin their new hazard of fortunes. All was animation, and expectation shone upon every countenance. This was to be for them the epoch making day, that day in January of 1874. Some came on horseback, some in carriages, some in buggies or wagons — such as could be procured in Los Angeles No matter, they were there. The place of rendezvous was just where the Orange Grove Avenue reservoir is — the most commanding spot on the land. I am told that the day was an ideal January day of Southern California. The kind when the sun shines in glorious radiance through an atmosphere washed of dust and smoke until it is perfectly transparent. It was just warm enough, just sparkling enough, to give life and zest to men's souls and cheer their courage. Jollity and good nature prevailed in this little band, and their happiness was attuned to the glory of the day. All being gathered about the President of the Association, a map of the tract was unrolled, (this map is now in the possession of the City of Pasadena) and the conditions of sale explained once again. Such men as P. M. Green, A. 0. Porter, Thomas Croft, Judge Eaton and Sherman Washburn, gave sage advice as to the selection of home sites, no doubt, for they were ever ready to "lend a hand" to their friends and neighbors. The map examined, they scattered over the lands to choose, each for himself, the particular spot he most desired. It was a merry quest, this homesite picking, and it meant much to them. Yet there was such variety, so much to choose from that all were satisfied by the time luncheon was called at high noon, when the wives and daughters — for they too were there, called the men together. A fine refection was found spread under friendly boughs which gave the finishing touches to the occa- 48 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL sion. Personal views were exchanged, plans and hopes dis- cussed and prophecies indulged in to the heart's content. Attachments were formed that day that became enduring bonds unto the end, and dreams were made to come true by vows of courage and mutual help. I wish I could linger longer in this scene, and dwell, with those pioneers, in their new found Paradise. The loveliness of the scene, the charm of the day, fitted well into its prophecies — a forecast of days to come. It was a perfect California day in a perfect California spring, and the sorcery of its sunshine and the allurement of its caressing breath, found them willing captives. The blue mountains in the north, the green carpeted mesas and foothills, were impres- sive pictures. The bending skies of sapphire dipped into the mists of yonder western seas, where the imagination could easily picture the shallops of Argonauts breasting gentle billows as they came searching for the golden fleece. The pioneer looked upon this in delight — and he saw more. In the valley to the south and west, for miles and miles, dappling fields of wild oats and alfileria spread in waving mantles of green and blue and lost themselves in the distant hills, and the whole scene was one glorious picture. This, my reader, is no imaginary scene, but a real one of which many duplicates followed before the tiller of the soil transformed its native loveliness — the real call of California as expressed in its lovely moods. But the pioneer was there for business that day. The selection of each particular plot must be confirmed. Some had chosen already but others, laggard in deciding, now concluded their choice and entered into compact with the Secretary of the Orange Grove Associ- ation, whereby they confirmed their membership in a practical and definite way. It was virgin soil, new, as it had come from the hands of God. The prow of the plough had never yet cloven its surface, nor had the foot of man, except perhaps the shepherd or the Indian, trod its grassy mantle. Sheep and cattle and horses had been the only connecting link with civilization known to these pristine fields. The slinking coyote had peered through the dense chapparel in quest of unwitting prey; perhaps a mountain lion with her trailing whelps, had at times slunk through these cattle paths, astray from their canyon home. This day, lush grasses and wild flowers were as a brilliant robe upon the earth. On the slopes and hills PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 49 millions of many hued blossoms spread their dazzling glories. Acres and acres of copper and gold poppies ; millions of baby blue eyes; wild portulaccas; buttercups, and mustard, made a marvelous mantle of color, splashing the emerald bosom like the arabesques of Aladdin's carpet. Down in the arroyo, the startled birds eyed these intruders from Indiana with concern, but soon discovered their peaceable intentions, for they set up their choruses from every branch. The blue jay tapped his welcome upon the giant sycamore; the darting tanager sped like a crimson gleam across the umbrageous arroyo; and from a majestic oak came the melodious orchestration of mocking birds, filling the land with their liquid music. Thus the invaders were met with exultant greetings and marvelous visions. It was the opulence of summer in a land combining the loveliness of Italy and the picturesqueness of Switzerland. The last Don had lazed here in indolent improvidence and arcadian unthrift, but the metamorphosis was at hand; for the gringo had come to usurp his dominance, to create a splen- did city from neglected acres, and lay the foundations for a new civilization. COLORADO ST. BRIDGE CHAPTER VIII Those Who Weke Pkesent HE honored guests at the January 27th picnic, should have their names entered here for preservation against faulty memories and perishing records. Unfortunately, not all those present can be named, for there were some who but came to linger and to look upon the scene, with perhaps but prospective interest . The actual buyers had already predicated their agreements in due form, at the Los Angeles headquarters, and they ratified their choice here — not one faltered. Some of the colonizers had not been able to come in person, but had authorized their purchase and selection by proxy. According to the minutes of the organization, the following named persons became purchasers, as designated. The uni- form price represented about $30 per acre, which could be made in payments covering a year, as was done by most pur- chasers. This included cost of water, etc. P. M. Green and A. 0. Porter, Indiana (together) . . 80 acres J. H. Baker, Indiana 15 acres W. J. Barcus, Indiana 15 acres A. W. Dana, Indiana 15 acres Jesse Yarnel, Ohio 15 acres A. 0. Bristol, Iowa 30 acres I. N. Mundell, Iowa 30 acres Ney Strickland, Georgia 15 acres Jabez Banbury, Iowa 60 acres Ni. E. Gibson, Indiana 60 acres Henry G. and Will J. Bennett, Michigan 60 acres D. M. Berry, for self and Dr. Elliott, Indiana 165 acres Thomas F. Croft, Indiana 60 acres W. T. Clapp, Massachusetts 60 acres Calvin Fletcher, Indiana (for self and others) 180 acres Benjamin S. Eaton (with A. O. Porter), Missouri. . . 60 acres 50 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 51 Purchasers by their representatives : — E. J. Vawter, by Berry, Indiana 60 acres Mrs. C. A. Vawter, by Berry, Indiana 60 acres T. J. and L. J. Lockhart, by Fletcher, Indiana 30 acres T. E. Lippincott, by Berry, Pennsylvania 60 acres H. J. Holmes, by Clapp, Massachusetts 60 acres J. M. Matthews, by Croft, Ohio 60 acres Ward Leavitt, by Berry, Indiana 60 acres A. W. Hutton, by Eaton, Alabama 30 acres Bepresenting the entire stock in the Association. Just twenty-eight purchasers in all and seventeen pur- chasers " present," with a total purchase of 1300 acres out of the 1500 acres of supposed irrigable land, from the 4000 Colony's ownership. The balance of the lands, those not purchased by the settlers that day, lay in the arroyo bottom and on the mesa; the latter, at that time supposed to be of little value, being too high above the arroyo streams to permit raising the water to them. The purchasers by proxy came out from their eastern homes shortly afterwards. Wives and children were there also to aid and abet in their undertaking, and to bring happy greeting to their future neighbors. Each seven and one-half acres of land carried with it one share of stock in the Association, representing just that frac- tional ownership in the lands and the waters of the arroyo pertaining to these lands, which was thereby insured to the land forever, according to riparian law of the state. Besides those named as purchasers in the original list,, there came the following — some with families — during the years 1874 and 1875, so far as can now be ascertained: — Charles H. Watts, Illinois, 74; M. Eosenbaum, Iowa, 74; Eev. W. C. Mosher, New York, 74 ; Major Erie Locke, Indi- ana, 74; Dr. O. H. Conger, New York, 74; W. E. Cooley, Massachusetts, 74; Dr. H. G-. Newton, Illinois, 75; Sherman Washburn, Iowa, 75. Of these, but five now (1917) survive : — Henry G-. Bennett, A. W. Hutton (Los Angeles), J. H. Baker, O. A. Bristd and S. Washburn. J. H. Baker, drawing upon his memory of the occurrences of the day when the land was allotted, says that short addresses were made by some who owned ranches in the surrounding country. Among those were General Stoneman, who had retired to his -fine ranch 52 PASADENA— HISTOEICAL AND PERSONAL south of the Colony lands after the Civil War, and who later became the Governor of California ; L. H. Titus ; Judge Eaton ; and also Calvin Fletcher, all of whom spoke welcoming and cheering words to the settlers. The day's work over, they all departed to Los Angeles or vicinity, with new resolves or old ones renewed, for the future; hastening to prepare for taking up their actual residence. CHAPTEE IX The Genesis — The California Colony of Indiana AUTHOR BELIEVES BELONGS HERE. GIVING INFORMATION ABOUT THE ACTUAL ORGANIZATION OF THE INDIANA COLONY AND THOSE WHO BEGAN IT. |AVING landed the pilgrims upon their chosen land and amid such pleasant and desirable surroundings ; having seen them making ready for their new for- tunes, and believing them able to commence opera- tions without his guidance, the author begs per- mission to return to the good city of Indianapolis, where was incubated the Great Idea; commence at the very beginning of its history, and tell how it began and who began it. No unpleasant results may be anticipated because those aforesaid pilgrims were, for the time being, abandoned to their fate and fortunes in the new land ; for it is certain they knew how to take care of themselves, and if any one person did not, the bond of fellowship that now bound them together was suffi- ciently strong to beget whatever aid and sympathy might be required under all circumstances. We heard the sympho- nies of birds welcome them, and the redolence of wild flowers, wafted by gentle south winds, bring joy to their senses. Therefore, in these safe and luxurious surroundings we leave them for a time. ORGANIZATION OF THE CALIFORNIA COLONY OF INDIANA In Indianapolis, in the beginning of the seventies, there had met, by the fortuitous circumstances of neighborly prox- imity, some men and women who, ambitious for the good things of God's making, had found themselves becoming dissatisfied with the chills and rigors of an exigent climate — both winter and summer — and yearned for more propitious environments. 53 54 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL To these people it seemed that there must be something in the world better than extreme cold and heat ; sultry days in summer, and frigid days in winter. They were not filled with foolish, altruistic notions, but just craved the happiness of pleasant essentials, and coveted their possession. The foremost of those interested were Dr. T. B. Elliott and Mrs. Elliott; D. M. Berry, Dr. Elliott's partner in the grain purchasing business. Also Calvin Fletcher, John H. Baker, J . M. Matthews and J. H. Euddell. The subject was discussed at the Elliott home and in the Berry and Elliott office. Florida was at first considered, but California had the call, and West- ward Ho was the moving sentiment. "Writers had been indulg- ing in paroxysms about the " Italy of America' ' as it had been termed, and it was decided that California possessed all the allurements of Paradise — it was then in charming dis- tance! But the very name California was romantic and fascinating, and enticed the fancy. Meetings of these friends attracted others and the home of the Elliotts became too small to accommodate the gatherings. Then they met in the con- venient freight house of the Cincinnati, Hamilton and Indian- apolis R. E., where Matthews was employed. An organization was effected, it being decided that efforts be made to induce at least 50 families to join the project in the beginning. A co-operative Colony plan was the idea, not a mutual sharing plan, but co-operation in beginning the enterprise — purchase of land in one body and concerted cultivation of each share until divided. Pursuant to this plan, Dr. T. B. Elliott was chosen as presi- dent; J. M. Matthews, secretary; Hon. J. H. Euddell, treas- urer ; Calvin Fletcher as general agent, with J. H. Baker and D. M. Berry the other members of the executive committee, so named. The name of the Colony then chosen was "The California Colony of Indiana. ' ' A prospectus of this Colony is before me as I write — the sole remaining one, and from it I quote : "Plan of the California Colony of Indiana The Colony is to be started on a basis of Fifty Families, but may be increased to any number. A body of land sufficiently large to PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 55 allow 160 acres of land, and a town lot of two acres, to each member, is to be purchased at a cost of about three dollars per acre. When the lands are purchased, a certain number of the Colonists will be selected to go ahead of the main body, to make arrangements for irrigating and cultivating the lands, to plant fences, start a nursery of tropical fruit and other trees. There will be planted during the first season, five acres of grape cuttings — one-half for raisins and one-half for wine, one acre of orange trees and twenty acres of wheat, on each tract of land. In planting the wheat, however, boundary lines will not be considered, but it will be put in, in one tract of say 1000 acres. During the second season five acres more of grapes, one acre more of fruit trees and twenty acres more of wheat on each tract will be put in, and so on each season the number of acres of each variety of cultivation will be increased. To create a fund to meet these expenses, assessments will be made on each member, as follows: June 1, 1873, $10, July 1, 1873, $10, August 1, 1873, $10, September 1, 1873, $10— Total, $40, and there- after, on the first day of each month, an assessment of like amount, or if found necessary, $12.50 per month will be made. When the first four assessments have been paid in, the pioneer party, composed of one of the executive committee and a Civil En- gineer, (member of the colony,) will start for the lands purchased, and commence operations at once. This party will be empowered by the Executive Committee to purchase implements, seed, etc., and hire sufficient labor for the proper cultivation above mentioned. All moneys received from the sale of crops will be paid over to the Treasurer and applied to the expenses of cultivation, thereby largely increasing the area of land brought under cultivation each season, and decreasing, if not wholly extinguishing the monthly assessments. After two seasons of the above described gradual cultivation and partial preparation of the lands for those members remaining at home, a certain time shall be set, by vote of the colonists themselves, for allotting to each member his particular farm and town lot, in the following manner, viz: As soon as the ' ' pioneer ' ' party arrive on the grounds, they will lay off the town into 100 lots of 300 feet square, so that each lot will have a frontage on a street, a lot of eight acres being reserved in the center for public purposes. Then the farms are to be laid off into tracts of 40, 80 and 160 acres. An average valuation by disinterested parties, shall be placed upon the farms and town lots, then all those subscribing for 40 acres and a town lot, shall have assigned to them by lot, one of the 40 acre farms and town lots. If the farm and lot are below the average valuation, the member getting such farm and 56 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL lot shall receive the difference in money ; those getting one of greater valuation than the average, shall pay the difference. In like manner will the distribution be made of the 80 and 160 acre tracts, among those subscribing for 80 or 160 acres. But it is intended that each member (classified according to the number of acres subscribed for), shall receive a farm and town lot as nearly equal in value as may be. After such allotment, all the tools, implements, stock, etc., hereto- fore purchased and owned by the colony, shall be sold, and the pro- ceeds, together with any other surplus moneys on hand at that time, divided equally among the members. After this time each member shall cultivate and take charge of his own place, the Colony, as an Association being dissolved, unless the members shall see fit to continue the organization for other pur- poses. The following is a list of the members of the Executive Commit- tee: T. B. ELLIOTT, President. J. M. MATTHEWS, Secretary, Hon. J. H. RUDDELL, Treasurer. CALVIN FLETCHER, Gen'l Agent. JNO. H. BAKER, D. M. BERRY. All those desiring to join the Colony will please apply to J. M. Matthews, Secretary, at Freight office of Cincinnati, Hamilton & Indianapolis R. R., Indianapolis, Ind." The following agreement was to be signed by every member of the Colony : "Whereas: We, the undersigned have associated ourselves to- gether for the purpose of forming a colony for Co-operative Farming in Southern California, and for our self government, better manage- ment and protection, hereby adopt and agree to the following article of Association, viz: Article I. The name of this Association shall be The California Colony of Indiana. Art. II. Any person, of good moral character, who shall be accepted by the Executive Committee, shall be eligible to membership. Art. III. The affairs of the Colony shall be governed by an ex- ecutive committee of six, composed of the President, Secretary, Treasurer and three other members of the Association. Any va- cancies in the committee shall be filled by ballot. Said committee shall have the power to make by-laws from time to time, for the bet- ter management of the affairs of the Colony, which shall be binding upon all members. PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 57 All expenditures shall be subject to the approval of the commit- tee, and they are hereby authorized to make assessments on -the mem- bers, either monthly or otherwise, sufficiently large to defray the ex- penses of the cultivation of the land ; and we hereby bind ourselves to pay to the Treasurer such assessments when called upon, provided however that the assessment shall not exceed $12.50 per month upon each member. We also, hereby bind ourselves to pay as they become due, the payments on the land, each member, according to the number of acres set opposite his name, said payments to be made through the Treasurer of the Colony. Art. IV. When the land is purchased a deed for the same shall be executed to the Executive Committee, as Trustee, in trust for the members of the Colony, who, when the land is apportioned, shall execute, to each and every member a good and sufficient deed for his apportionment. Art. V. No member shall hold more than one hundred and sixty, or less than forty acres, besides a town lot. Art. VI. No spirituous distilled liquors shall be allowed on the lands of the Colony for traffic. Art. VII. The Executive Committee shall meet, regularly, once a month and oftener if necessary, upon the call of the President." The foregoing prospectus setting these facts forth, was distributed freely and there were many who signed the agree- ment, and I believe Calvin Fletcher secured some members outside of Indiana, the Edson Turner family, for example, joining from Peoria, Illinois, by his solicitation, or perhaps it was that of Kimball, both being active agents. Sufficient members had agreed in the summer of 1872, to make the project seem guaranteed. A committee composed of J. H. Baker, Nathan Kimball and Albert Bruxton — a sur- veyor — was chosen to go forth and find the land of milk and honey, and to purchase it for the would be colonists. Kimball and Berry departed in August of that year, and Baker shortly thereafter, going to San Francisco by rail, thence to Los Angeles via steamer; there being then no railroad communi- cation with Los Angeles; and we find these men soon after- ward in Los Angeles busily engaged in quest of the desired tract of land. From correspondence with Dr. Elliott, yet in existence, it would seem that this advance guard had no easy time finding a tract conforming to the requirements. At that time much of Southern California was in its primal state, almost, the land being held in great ranchos, with few water 58 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL systems and chiefly used for grazing purposes. The corre- spondence referred to shows that San Diego and San Ber- nardino counties had been pretty thoroughly investigated, and Berry wrote that he "was tired out knocking around in canyons, cactus, nettles, jungles, dry river bottoms, etc.," adding, "it was no longer funny, and he wanted to resign." No wonder, he hadn't yet prospected the right place; that was yet to come. At one time a tract in San Bernardino County was about chosen, and again the Santa Anita ranch (not yet owned by Baldwin) was decided upon — 8,000 acres. Then came, as a clap of thunder — as one of them expressed it — the financial panic of 1873, which knocked the embryo Colony into a "cocked hat" for the time being, leaving the prospecting agents stranded in Los Angeles with $130 only, in hand ! The proposition fell to pieces for the time being. Berry opened a real estate office at 30 North Main Street, Los Angeles, with one H. C. Wiley under the name of Wiley & Berry, and the prospects of the California Colony of Indiana looked hopeless. Nevertheless, Baker and Berry did not surrender, nor did Fletcher, who had also arrived. Kimball went to Utah and became Surveyor General of that territory. In the meantime other fortune seekers came to Los Angeles in quest of better prospects. Among them Jabez Banbury, P. M. Green, A. O. Porter, A. O. Bristol, Henry G. Bennett, Calvin Fletcher and Thomas F. Croft had come out from Indiana or other places and had also busied themselves looking about for suitable colony lands. Benjamin S. Eaton had met these men and had become interested in their object. Strange to say, the com- mittee had not examined the lands of the San Pascual Banch, or if they had, gave them no further attention. But Eaton believed this ranch possessed the very requisites a Colony should have, and invited Berry to his ranch "Fair Oaks" (comprising the Allen, the Crank and other lands, as they were later known). Berry accepted the invitation and was next day driven over the lands of the San Pascual ranch, returning to Los Angeles filled with the belief that he had found the very spot. True, the price was far beyond that originally supposed desirable lands could be purchased for, but it was believed a reorganization was now necessary any- how, since the original plans had become disintegrated. PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 59 Baker, Bennett, Fletcher and Croft visited and carefully inspected these lands and decided they would fulfill their desired purpose. A meeting was called of interested persons at Berry's office on November 13th, 1873. Of the original ' ' California Colony of Indiana" only two members were present at this meeting, to wit, Baker and Fletcher. It was at this meeting that the "San Gabriel Orange Grove Association" was formed, it being decided that the old name was not appropriate, hence the change. THE SAN GABEIEL ORANGE GROVE ASSOCIATION It having been decided to purchase the interest of Dr. J. S. Griffin in the San Pascual ranch, consisting of about 4,000 acres, the members present proceeded to choose directors of the new company as follows : B. S. Eaton, A. 0. Porter, D. M. Berry, Thos. F. Croft, W. T. Clapp, A. 0. Bristol and Calvin Fletcher. Eaton was elected president ; Croft, vice president ; Clapp, treasurer and Berry, secretary. The capitalization at this time was made $25,000 — to be divided into 100 shares at $250 each (this capitalization was subsequently doubled and the shares increased to 200). It is a fact that not one of these first incorporators were farmers, unless we except Eaton, who was also lawyer, en- gineer, then rancher — at last. Of course they knew which end of a plow to hold, but it is doubtful if some of them knew when pumpkins should properly be planted or how to harness a horse. But they hoped to learn, and perhaps they didn't expect to plant pumpkins ! And the fact did not worry any of them in the least, for in truth, California farming was a new science even to eastern farmers, and must be learned on the soil, and the eastern farmer must reorganize this mental slant before he undertakes his pursuit in this land where spring begins in December and rivers run bottom side up! The doctor, the lawyer, the carpenter and the merchant, felt no disqualification because they were compelled to learn a new pursuit, rather they were the more eager to begin. Following organization, it was determined to open negoti- ations for the purchase of Dr. Griffin's ownership in San 60 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL Pascual ranch together with the waters appurtenant to it. Thomas F. Croft figured admirably in these negotiations because of his tactful management, when all signs pointed to a failure because some differences had arisen between Griffin and Wilson as to the precise manner of division and separa- tion of interests. But all difficulties were finally overcome by Croft, and on December 15th, 1873, the agreement was concluded as to boundaries ; on December 18th the price was determined upon, and on the 26th the purchase was concluded. The price was $25,000 for the tract of 3,933.35 acres. One- fourth of the money was paid down on the conclusion of the agreement, to wit, $6,250, and a note for $18,750, payable in one year, given for the remainder. This note and purchase was made in Croft's name, he afterwards conveying his title thereto to the Association. Thus the San Gabriel Orange Grove Association, which was in effect the Indiana Colony, as it thereafter, for a time, was known, became titular owner and established its foundations on the San Pascual ranch. It was believed that but 1500 acres of these lands were suscep- tible of farming or fruit growing, as it was not then thought that so called "dry lands" would grow fruit of any kind. About 900 acres of the lands lay in the Arroyo bottom; the balance of the tract, 1,400 acres, was located on the slopes above the natural flow of the Arroyo waters and was con- sidered practically valueless. Figuring upon choice arable land, as then considered, it will be seen that the cost of same to the Colony Association was seventeen dollars per acre; but deducting the price received afterwards for the mesa land, made the cost twelve dollars! As a fact, so little value was attached to the high lying lands at the time that they were not considered of intrinsic worth in the transaction, but "thrown in" with the rest! This land is now know as Altadena, and is valued at thousands of dollars per acre! CHAPTER X Getting Busy in the Colony AND LO, THE MERCHANT, THE DOCTOR AND THE LAWYER, BEGAN TO TILL THE SOIL, AND TO PLANT THINGS. SOME OF THE THINGS THEY PLANTED GREW AND SOME DID NOT, BUT COURAGE WAS NOT LESSENED THEREBY, NOR ENTHUSIASM DIMMED IN THE DAYS OF THE PIONEER. HE title to H the lands had passed into the Association and from thence to the pioneer, who be-, came at once eage-f to begin his new under- taking. Preparations were begun according- ly, to buy the necessary tools, the horses and the lumber for the settlers' new homes. To A. 0. Bristol falls the honor of being the pioneer home builder; the first home in the Colony being built and occu- pied by him. This house — a three room, rough board and "battened" "California house," so called — was begun and finished in a week, and occupied February 6th, 1874. It was not even white washed, or color washed, outside, but like most others of its kind in the Colony days, stood in naked ostentation until clambering vines hid its bareness. And it stands so today, untouched by the march of progress, just where it was built on the Bristol land 43 years ago, on the corner of North Orange Grove Avenue (then Mountain Street) and Lincoln Ave. Weatherbeaten by the storms of winters and suns of summers, its sagging sides appeal in pathetic dejection, as if beseeching that protection it deserves. Around its abandoned threshold clambers a blooming rose, endeavor- ing, as it seems, to hide the decrepitude it covers and defend 61 PASADENA'S FIRST HOUSE, Finished Feb. 6, 1874 (Still standing) 62 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL it from the too curious eyes of passers by. It was a fair type of the pioneer home in the Indiana Colony. J. H. Baker was a prompt follower of Bristol, and built the second abode of the same kind, on the corner of Walnut Street and Fair Oaks Avenue, moving into it sometime in February. Colonel J. Banbury began his home on South Orange Grove Avenue about this time also, or just prior to it, but as he built a real, plastered, eastern style house of one and a half stories, it was longer in building, hence his family did not move in until about the tenth of March, 1874. Henry Gr. Bennett built the fourth home — the California pio- neer kind, on South Orange Grove, near Belief ontaine Street — occupying it, also, in March, 1874. These are the historic facts in connection with the " first' ' homes in the Colony and are given here to settle, finally, some late day friendly con- troversy upon the subject. Older settlers will remember the long row of cypress hedge which led from the street back to Banbury's house, growing in time into trees, aiid forming an archway of green which might be called a lovers' lane. Per- haps it was such when, in later years, other comers occupied the premises and blooming daughters attracted the attention of languishing swain. But it was not here that the "Banbury Twins" made their debut as "marriageable" daughters, they being almost too young, then! The Banbury family took important place in the pioneer years of the Colony, socially, and in public affairs. The "twins" yet live in this land of California, their chief unhappiness being that they do not reside in their beloved Pasadena. Colonel Banbury, who, as will appear, became prominent (politically, went into the army at the beginning of the Civil War as a private; became a lieutenant after short service, and came out of it a full fledged Colonel with a record for gallantry and good service. While the Banbury's were building their home the "twins" occasionally came over from Los Angeles with their father, playing about the place during the day, and at times remaining all night. On those occasions it was a matter of much alarm with the kiddies when the coyotes set up their pandemonium of noise — as they invariably did. After a time they got accustomed to these "wild dogs" and unafraid. A more interesting event occurred one day when an ill appearing Mexican stopped at the place and made some inquiries of the Colonel. After he had gone his way it was PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 63 learned that the Mexican was none other than the notorious Vasquez, the bandit, who, with his vicious band of horse thieves and cutthroats, had infested Southern California for years. He was hung in the Los Angeles jail the year following his meeting with Banbury, of whom he fortunately made but passing inquiries. The Colonists all arrived in due time and began to prepare their "ranches" for planting. Most of the lands had to be cleared and leveled for irrigation. Some were covered with chaparrel, greasewood, sage brush, etc.; in some places open and scattering, in others very dense, occasioning much labor to clear off. The first year little could be planted that demanded irrigation, inasmuch as no water was piped onto the land until the fall of 1784. Barley, corn and such things as would grow on "dry" land were put in, however, mostly as a matter of experiment. Prepara- tions for bringing the waters of the Arroyo down to the land were begun at once, and a reservoir planned, but it was not until the fall of that year that this was completed. In the meantime the settlers were compelled to carry water from the Arroyo in barrels or other receptacles. As it was necessary to irrigate the citrus trees from their very planting, it will be seen that the planters had no easy job on hand. When at last the reservoir was finished and water piped to it, a ditch was plowed down Orange Grove Avenue through which water was run to those along the way. This primitive method was used until pipes replaced it, nearly a year after- ward. Of course water was too precious to be wasted. Fuel, also, was scarce and was provided usually from "wood lots" so called, these wood lots being a division of the wooded lands in the Arroyo bottoms, which contained a heavy growth of brushwood and saplings, alder, sycamore and scrub oak trees. HOME OF COLONEL BANBURY \, Finished March, 1874 64 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL These lots contained from three to seven acres and extended in narrow strips, entirely across the Arroyo. There was one hundred of these, one going with each parcel of the originally subdivided lands of the Colony. They were sold in the begin- ning at from $20 to $50 each, but the price was later raised to $62.50. Critics like Myron Hunt and Prof. Damon criticize the removal of trees, brush, etc., from the Arroyo, for fuel or other uses in those times. Today, no one would contemplate such vandalism. But it must be remembered that when the Indiana Colony was settled by the Easterners, they had not yet studied the question of water conservation. Neither did the Arroyo appeal to them as a possible future park. The one thing in mind then was the need of fuel and its scarcity here- abouts. Of course with more experience came wisdom and conservation, just as sedulously practiced in the Colony days as now. Orange Grove Avenue as originally mapped was laid out with parkings here and there in the center, but pres- sure of more important affairs and scarcity of water, led to the abandonment of this plan, and the abutting lands were absorbed by the owners fronting thereon and the street nar- rowed just that much. As one pioneer said, the gophers "beat us to it" and preempted the Orange Grove Avenue parks. When the lands were laid out, Orange Grove Avenue was the main avenue. Colorado Street, Fair Oaks Avenue, Arroyo Drive, Mountain Street (now North Orange Grove) and Cali- fornia Street — also Sylvan Avenue and Mission Street (in South Pasadena) were the only streets laid out in the original Colony. The Association tract was laid out by Calvin Fletcher, who, with an eye to the beautiful, planned Orange Grove Avenue with its system of parkings throughout, and other things in keeping. Our present day City Planning Asso- ciation might find some inspiration in the map devised by Calvin Fletcher, which, in respect to Orange Grove Avenue and also the Arroyo Drive plan, discovers a fine example of esthetic ambitions. Shade trees, usually the pep- per, were set out; and cypress hedges adorned the front of nearly every home, being also used to show the dividing lines between neighbors' property. These hedges, when two or three years old, were shaped up and made beautiful street borders. The drawback was the labor in maintaining them PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 65 attractively. Of course the rose received first attention and became the qneen of flowers, bnt the tastes of the pioneers were as diverse as the means at command and the results proved themselves. WATER Water was a subject of paramount importance to the pioneer and affected the progress of the settlement so vitally that it must needs have jealous attention. When the lands of the Orange Grove Association were purchased, a certain apportionment of the waters that came down the Arroyo Seco and also all rights in certain springs that rose below the Devil's Gate accompanied them. The principal springs above were the Tibbetts, the Ivy and the Flutterwheel, flowing alto- gether about 90 to 100 miner's inches (summer measurement) at the time of the purchase. (A miner's inch equals 13,000 gallons in 24 hours.) Thus the total water supply equalled about 1,300,000 gallons daily flow, from the sources named. When the Lake Vineyard Company began operations a divi- sion was made according to this apportionment. There were other springs, notably the Sheep Corral, and the one that rose near the old Garfias adobe house. The Association, preparing for its needs, gave first attention to its water supply and engaged B. S. Eaton to construct a reservoir and bring down the waters to it for distribution. Work was begun at once under the guidance of Eaton and others of the executive board of the Association, consisting of Calvin Fletcher and O. A. Porter. D. M. Berry was the first secretary of the Associ- ation and his minutes of the early meetings give brief infor- mation of the details that were entered into in this work. We find that meetings were held, accounts credited and paid, and contracts entered into in a formal business way. The affairs of the Colony were conducted by the Board of Directors, which of course also controlled the water affairs. Before work was finished on the reservoir and the water delivered at every tract of land, water had to be hauled from the arroyo as has been said. When Bristol was building his house, J. Ii. Baker assisted him. One evening about dark, it was decided to go to the arroyo, a half mile or so distant, to fetch some water. Each took his bucket, and filling it, started back through the bushes for Bristol's. Just as they entered the densest part of the brush, there broke upon them a frightful, ear splitting 66 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL roar, as if by an animal in desperate fury. So close it sonnded that the men, with one accordant yell, made a dive homeward at a pace never before equalled. They arrived, exhausted, with emptied buckets! Next morning a sportsman shot an enormous mountain lion, just where that mighty noise was heard by the two pioneers, and they believed ever after that they had a miraculous escape. The orange and the lemon, it had been decided by the settlers, were the proper trees to plant. Climatic conditions warranted this conclusion and profits seemed tempting. Stories of extraordinary returns were heard about the orange, and these appealed to the imagination — then as now. The first orange trees planted in California had been planted at San Gabriel by the padres about 1820, the seed being brought from Mexico. It is known that the orange (seedling) is a very long lived tree, instances being alleged, in Italy, of trees five hundred years old, and yet in bearing. The Navel Orange was introduced in California by Mrs. Tibbetts of Eiverside, who, in 1874, received from W. Sanders of the Agricultural Department at Washington, two trees for experiment. These trees had come to Mr. Sanders from Bahia, Brazil, in 1870. The variety was at first called the Washington Navel, but Riverside, upon discovering its value, changed the name to Riverside Navel, by which term it was long known. This tree, from which the first Navel buds were cut for experiment, is now to be seen on the grounds of the Glenwood Inn at Riverside. In 1874 there was but a limited market for the orange ; beyond local consumption, the excess crops were sent by boat to San Francisco, but the freight was so high that the net returns were sometimes pretty discour- aging. In 1876 the first carload of oranges sent east went from Los Angeles, over the Southern Pacific railroad — then just opened — the freight for same was $500. As the system of transporting fruit now in vogue was then unknown, and its preservation in refrigerator cars yet to be invented, much of the fruit found its market in poor condition, sometimes entirely ruined. These were some of the problems that faced the incipient horticulturist in the Indiana Colony. It was not considered wisdom to ' i trust all their eggs to one market, ' ' so peaches, almonds, walnuts and other fruits were planted; also vineyards, mostly in Muscat grapes, as it was supposed PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 67 that the conditions were suitable for raisin making. Many lime trees were set out — in hedges chiefly, such hedges serving as a wind break and also party lines. The Colonists fell to, and studied horticulture, however and wherever they could — and practiced it. Dr. Elliott has written that at the end of two years the Colonists had planted 10,000 orange and lemon trees, about 7,000 deciduous trees — apples, apricots, peaches, pears, etc. — 150,000 grape vines and had a nursery stock of over 100,000 trees besides. Besides, they had planted many pepper and eucalyptus trees for street shade and had made some new streets. When Mrs. Jeanne Carr and Dr. Carr came (in 1880) and laid out their beautiful " Carmelita, ' ' the residents found in her a student who could be invaluable to them, and was. Dr Carr and his wife had been educators in the East; he as a professor in medicine, at the Madison, Wisconsin, University, and later as State Superintendent of Schools in California, with Mrs. Carr as his able assistant. Carmelita, a tract of forty-two acres, located on the north- east corner of Colorado Street and Orange Grove Avenue, became, in course of years, noted for several things ; first, its great variety of fruit and ornamental trees and plants — more than two hundred in all — which Mrs. Carr had obtained from nearly every corner of the world. Again, for the hospitalities extended by its hosts to many eminent people, drawn thither by the personalities of the owners and as well because of its wonderful beauty and interest. In a little log cabin on these grounds (still standing, embowered in roses and other flower- ing vines) it is said that Helen Hunt Jackson, while visiting the Carr's, wrote part of Ramona. Whether this is true or not, cannot now be proved, but true it is, that many noted people have sat beneath the shade of the grand trees on Carmelita and there received the inspiration which comes from the contemplation of surpassing loveliness. One of the pleasing features of the landscape in the early days of Pasadena was the long rows of cypress and laurustinus hedges which abounded. These hedges were used in lieu of fences, which were practically unknown. Living hedges are not so common today. Kept trim and formal, always green, they were picturesque and attractive and one of the notable features of the landscape. Now and then a rose "fence" or 68 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL "hedge" added the brilliancy of its color and beauty to the picture, relieving the green banks of cypress admirably. Of course, these features only came into being after a few years of toil and care by the settlers. The tillers had been busy, the soil was responding, as was seen by the blooming groves and orchards on every side and in a few years vast changes ensued. It was a splendid, a magical transformation that soil and water, combined with brains and hard work, had accomplished in a few brief years, but such things are possible — in Cali- fornia ! A few years and the stretches of untilled soil of sage brush, or heretofore almost barren slopes had become smiling orchards, orange groves and green mantling vineyards — best of all — Homes ! Not stately villas, not mansions with im- posing facades, but just comfortable, even humble dwellings, within whose doors dwelt hope and happiness. About their thresholds grew roses, and about their gables clambered honeysuckles, shedding fragrance everywhere. Trim green hedges, neatly kept lawns and other evidences of good taste prevailed in the humblest home. In season, the pink of the apple, of the peach and the almond blossom, became a billowy sea of color, while the snowy white bloom of prune and plum, and the golden oranges depending amidst their setting of emerald made a picture of rare loveliness and a joy to the owner. It was "A fair sweet scene of sunny air Magnolia scented — sighing through — Low drooping vine, with burdens rare That heavy humg with diamond dew; Of orange groves, whose golden globes The summer sunlight sought in vain; The cypress with its deep green robes, The rolling hills and smiling plain." The "village," very small in its first decade, lay still in the splendid summer sunshine. A man astride of old dobbin rode up to the postomce now and then, for his mail; and the postmaster was mighty glad of his "call," for it broke the monotony of a quiet day. Down the pathway, where, by the green hedge, the pepper trailed its friendly branches and etched embroideries in the dust, came rosy cheeked children. The mocking-bird sang its melodies from tall eucalyptus and PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 69 the oriole gave back feeble response. It was the idealization of a peaceful existence. Yet even with most happy surroundings and prospects, the heart of the pioneer sometimes longed for the friends and relatives left behind in the old homestead, and yearned for a word with them, for a peep at the old farm, or an exchange of greetings with a neighbor at the old village store. Naturally, the colonists would talk these things over in their interchange of neighborly visits, and many tender mer- ories were thus revived. A climax to this came when some lucky one would set out on a journey "back home." It was a matter of interest to all, and gracious Godspeeds were the departing benedictions the traveler received; for he or she might, in fact, be going right back where they had come from ! Then the welcome the wanderers got when they returned! Often they were the bearers of messages from the old home which gave joy and gladness to the recipient. It was first hand ! Yet, these visits were satisfying in more ways than one. They made the visitor better contented with the newer home, and more appreciative of the advantages of it. And after all, with years of absence, the old place seemed different there! The farm didn't seem so large, the house was not as imposing and the weather was so changeable ! Yes, indeed, it was different, or it seemed so by comparison with this wider horizon. Just the fondness that remained for the old friends was as firm as ever. Time sped on, finding the pioneer busy with his orchards, his groves, and his multitude of petty cares, besides. His eyes were forever bent forward to a provident future, but he was sometimes cast down by the burdens of the present. The orange groves were coming on — they were learning what would grow best and how to grow it, for, as I have said, these men had to learn the art of growing and the arts of managing the things they grew. There is no royal road to fortune, even in California! Water was one of the exasperating worries, or rather its scarcity was. The winter of 1876-77 was a very dry one ; the summer following found the usual water supply less copious. Even then, we find there were troubles over its delivery and use — there are always the selfish ones who demand more than their share, or take it, nolens volens. Extraordinary as it may seem, the monthly rate was lower at times then, than it has been since. 70 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL Sometimes 75 cents, sometimes $1.00, or on occasions, $1.50 per month — cheap enough, everything considered. At a meeting of the directors of the company, August 7th, 1875, Thomas Croft introduced a resolution which read as follows : "Besolved, that the members of this Board, being ex- tremely anxious to further the interests of the Association and morality among our people, do hereby most emphatically denounce as acts of lawlessness which should be dealt ivith severely, the turning off of the water from the main pipe and turning it on again — to the extreme distress of their neigh- bors!" So it seems some miscreant was actually stealing water! Again, a certain resident was plainly notified, in writing, that " unless he quit using water for irrigating with- out obtaining consent for it," his supply would be cut off. Still another, "that he must come up to the office and settle for past dues, or have his supply cut off until he did" — this, after several notices to pay up, which he had neglected. So it seems there were those who were not always as rule abiding as one might desire. The income of the Association was not very much in its first year or so, sometimes less than $25.00 per month. When the Colony became more fully settled, naturally this income increased and the Zanjero was paid $50.00 per month and the Secretary $25.00. Jabez Banbury, who had been appointed first Zanjero, resigned and A. O. Bristol was appointed on January 9th, 1875. This was the end of the Association's first year. D. M. Berry was secretary then, but was succeeded by H. G-. Newton, who continued until November, 1877, when C. H. Watts was elected his successor. At the annual election of Directors, November 9th, 1876, total cash receipts reported were $4,936.00 and total expendi- tures $4,578.00. Of this only $600 came from water rentals, the balance from the sale of wood lots, of wood, and rent of pasture land. The account also showed an extraordinary expenditure for pipe, and reservoir repairs (lining). The minutes of this meeting recorded nineteen members as present in person and was a fair representation of actual settlers (families not counted), twenty months after the Colony began operations. A. O. Porter was elected President of the Associ- ation this year. To meet extraordinary expenses it was proposed to borrow some money at a Los Angeles bank to make some PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 71 needed repairs to rotting flumes, and to replace some wooden flumes with iron pipes at a cost of $720. But it was reported by the President that the bank wanted to charge one and a half per cent per month! It was decided to urge all delin- quents to pay up their obligations promptly and borrow the needed balance, which was done. As has been said, the tract of land now known as Altadena, had been "thrown in" when the main body was purchased. Now, it had been considered that this " sheep land" belonging to the Association, might with propriety be divided between its members gratuitously. But by 1879, at a stockholders meeting, it was decided "that the present financial condition of the company did not warrant this," and further that it should be sold for $5.00 per acre, if a buyer could be found, or "that any stockholder could purchase any reasonable part of it at this price. ' ' In 1880, 420 acres of this land were sold to S. P. Jewett and P. Gano, at this price, on terms. Then on November 20th, 1880, the Board authorized the sale of 937 acres to Fred J. and John P. Woodbury at the same price, and the sale was consummated December 1st, 1880. To anticipate the proper chronology of this story, let me say here that when the Lake Vineyard Association opened the lands lying east of the Indiana Colony tract, its settlers began using their share of the Arroyo waters. It was not long before differences occurred under the primitive methods of adjusting the proper proportions due each colony. Trouble occurred which was a long time continued. Whisky and water have never been plentiful in Pasadena, but both have occasioned painful disturbances. Each company had been using the entire waters of the arroyo from the supply above the Devil's Gate, three days each week, alternately, for irrigation purposes, the assump- tion being that each company was owner equally with the other. But in 1879 the Lake Vineyard Company raised the claim that the Orange Grove Association was only entitled to the waters of the so-called "Tibbetts" spring located on the east side of the arroyo seco and none of the waters of the "Ivy" springs. The claims of the Lake Vineyard Company were sustained by a court decision and .further affirmed by a supreme court decision in 1880. The Orange Grove Associ- ation then paid the Lake Vineyard Company $10,000 to con- tinue the rights in these springs which they had always 72 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL believed they owned. 0. R. Dougherty was president of this company until 1891, Henry Gr. Bennett became secretary in 1881, and continued in that office until 1904, when Wm. McQuilling succeeded him. Now and then the pioneers met in conclave, that is, held meetings to consider affairs affecting their well being. When the schoolhouse was built they met there. Again, there were informal meetings at neighbors' houses of evenings, when neighbors got together, compared experiences and exchanged advice. These were the compensations for the severance of old home ties, and served to promote that fellowship and neighborly regard that has been maintained between the pioneers ever since, and ever bids pleasant recollections of the SO. ORANGE GROVE AVENUE, 1876 Looking North from Bellefontaine H. J. Holmes' house on left Methodist Church distant H. G. Bennett's on fore- center ground School under tree Mrs. Gilmore Presbyterian Church on ex- treme right 1 ' days of seventy-four. ' ' As met the family heads ; also met and mingled the young ladies and the beaux, who sat on the little veranda viewing the moon and discussing the Pleiades, no doubt, as usual. The fragrance of the orange blossoms and the roses that clambered around the doorways gave fitting incense to the occasion. They sang songs together, and they dreamed dreams of years to come, just as is done everywhere. Above them the morning glory nodded approvingly and the hollyhocks, like sentinels standing by the path that led up to PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 73 the hospitable door, turned their faces to each other and smiled knowingly. On summer nights like these, peace settled down on the Colony folk, and if there were troubles by day, night and the silver moon, with its serenity and glory, made them forget. And then there was always tomorrow ! The dry, dusty, rainless summers were an interesting novelty to them at first, and the fructifying rains of winter came as a delightful change, with the springing verdure, the clean washed atmos- phere and clear skies as a benediction and a delight. And so life continued as it must, but there was only optimism in the Colony. It must succeed ! The difference in seasons was a new experience to the pioneers from Indiana and Iowa, but they grew accustomed to them and finally fond of them. There were no murky, hot mornings; the air was clear and sparkling. Sometimes though they did crave the rain, a storm with lightning and thunder — for it was monotonous at first. When, in the fall — in October or November — the sky grew gray with clouds and the winds came from the east, the farmer began to look hope- fully for the coming of the "wet season.' ' There came a night at last when he was awakened by a soft patter upon the roof and his heart bounded in gladness, for it was raining ! Next morning he gazed out upon his fields and at his grove and watched the steady rainfall soak into the thirsty soil. And presently the thin stream in the arroyo rose higher and higher, and he knew that the rain was coming heavily in the mountains and the canyons were gathering it up into great streams there. It was winter, and crops were being assured and harvests certain. CHAPTER XI Something About Pests the friendly squirrel and the perfidious gopher. the ways of the pest in california. ND oh, those pests ! The gophers, the squirrels, the jackrabbits and the grasshoppers ! The latter pest was like unto the celebrated locust in Egypt, as related in the Great Book — at least in numbers, and in the plague it carried. The grasshopper had an appetite voracious and insatiable, and fed upon everything green within the radius of its advance, and ate it in a hurry ! Before the settler cleared the land of its brushwood, this little pest lived the life of quietude within its harborage. But when the advancing hand of civilization drove him forth from his sanctuary, he resented the intrusion by reciprocally foraging upon all growing things the settler planted, and presto, they disappeared! Burning the chaparral on uncleared land was sometimes resorted to to get rid of grasshoppers, but was a dangerous remedy. The bark of young trees, even, went the way of the most succulent vegetable. It was a common thing to see long rows of young orange trees with their tops carefully covered with gunny sacks, and their trunks swathed with paper, for pro- tection from the predaceous enemies. The festive jackrabbit, too, took a hand, or rather his jaws, and finished what the grasshopper might overlook, or balk on, as too tough. The green bark of the young orange was his joy and his luxury. And the gopher! Oh, the gopher! That was the cunning little darling with the bright shining baby eyes! The gopher caused more profanity than the grizzly bear, just because of his insidious cunning, amazing activity and destructiveness. Nothing occasioned more trouble to the pioneer than the depredations of this rodent. With teeth like a surgeon's saw, and a disposition as perverse and destructive as any pest created in California, he was a formidable visitor. Burrowing faster than a stream of water could chase him, as sly and watchful as brer fox, he challenged man's inventive genius 74 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 75 to conquer him. Poison and traps and interminable patience was the solution, even that was slow. The ground squirrel, agile and timid, lives in burrows, sometimes in happy domestic association with snakes and owls, preying as a rule upon the grain fields. These pests mostly migrate with the cultivation of the land, but in the beginning of the Colony days, on account of surrounding un- cultivated acres, gave much trouble to the settlers. THE COYOTE It may be a good opportunity here to mention another more or less friendly animal of early days, one whose voice once so raucous and voluble, has now ceased to trouble in these surroundings, he having slunk from sight and sound of noisy streets and glittering lights. I refer to the coyote — the wolf- dog of the desert and edge of civilization. The coyote is a lean and hungry animal. The coyote is in fact a wolf, known widely in western states. It makes its nest or cave, in canyons or secluded places away from civilization, but prowls at night in quest of game — chickens for preference. Also, he is the head devil of sneaks with a "voice." Not the ordinary, every day, animal voice, but a voice comprising an aggregation of voices in one larynx — vociferous, wild, plaintive and compel- ling — all at once! One coyote in vocal action is as a half dozen, and that number of coyotes is a convention. Their habit is to choose a fine moonlight night, when nature is hushed and attuned to quiet and harmony, when repose should be balmy and peaceful. 'Tis then the coyote would sneak upon the outskirts of civilization — in this instance down in the Arroyo Seco, or over at San Eafael bluffs, there to emit his passionate serenades, seated the while on his haunches with nose pointed towards the moon. i l Tenderf eet ' ' hearing that demoniac chorus, imagine dire tragedies and lose much sleep. But the coyote is a coward as well as a sneak, and desires no more than a tender spring chicken for his refection, and he not only selects the choicest of the flock, but will ruthlessly slay the rest ere he departs. Sometimes coyotes have, when badgered by pursuing hounds, sought refuge in the streets of Pasadena. I remember once that one of them ran, pursued, into the postoffice lobby in his fright, and was there captured. This also occurred to a fawn that evidently had wandered away from parental attention 76 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL and got lost. It (the fawn) was safely and tenderly cared for by a humane citizen. This story is told of a coyote. It happened on the ranch of Fred Woodbnry at Altadena, npon which stood a large pepper tree whereon turkeys were wont to seek refuge and repose o' nights. A coyote — hungry, of course, spied the "turks" one evening before it became quite dark. This cun- ning coyote knew a thing or two beyond the ordinary. It could not climb the tree, and of course the turkey would not come down to be devoured. So the coyote just walked 'round and 'round that tree, its movements being closely watched by the gobbler, who never ceased for a moment, to follow him with his eyes. The result was that the poor turkey became so hyp- notized that it fell off the limb and was picked up by the cunning coyote who made off with it ! This story is vouched for by Mrs. Jennie Ford. These pioneer griefs had their funny side, too, even if they were costly and troublesome, and the settlers often laughed over their vexations. There were other humorous side lights, also. INCIDENTS BY THE WAY One might smile at the recollection of Henry Bennett or P. G. Wooster struggling with the business end of a plough in action. Or he may recall with pleased feeling the picture of Tom Croft driving his favorite mule team down Orange Grove Avenue. But the story that Mel Wood tells on Barney Williams gives a pathetic picture that shows how one promi- nent citizen of ye olden time engaged in pastoral pursuits. One day Mel went down to see Barney and found him busily engaged with a frolicky horse attached to a cultivator. It was raining pretty hard, but Barney couldn't help that ! Mel was amazed to see him, dressed in a "frock" coat and "plug" hat ! — discarded garments of better and more fastidious days. Every tug of the horse dragged Barney in sudden spasms forward, and with each stride the long tailed coat dangled against his legs in pathetic dejection. It was a funny sight, but there were few to enjoy it. Erstwhile clerks, lawyers or merchants, must needs do as others did in those days. It is related that a prominent Colonist once built him a domicile for his six feet two of stature that was not quite equal to its purpose. After it was done he did not have room PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 77 for all of himself, including his feet, inside of it, so he slept with his feet ont of the window! Also, that when he was putting the finishing touches to it, he nailed himself up inside ! But what could be expected of a schoolmaster turned carpen- ter? Perhaps this is not true. It was no opprobrium upon the good name of another good man that he endeavored to secure olive oil from the tree, just as he had been accustomed to procure maple sugar sap in Michigan! Rubber trees are tapped for rubber, as are pine trees for turpentine ; why not olive trees for oil? Charley Watts and Charley Bell were the village "cut- ups" — the jokers of the deck, in the early days, and made things merry now and then. It is told of Watts that upon one occasion, when walking down Orange Grove Avenue, he met a nice looking setter dog which stopped at Charley's beck, and f riendlily wagged a greeting. Such a fine dog must have an owner nearby, though as yet not in sight. Opportunely, there chanced by a load of hay, being driven down to the vil- lage center — perhaps by Charley Bell — perhaps some other. No matter, it was Watt's opportunity for a practical joke, so, without the knowledge of the driver of the wagon, Watts tied the dog to the tail end of it, and it proceeded on its journey, while Charley continued upon his own way. By and by came a flustered Englishman with a gun, inquiring very concernedly of Watts whether he had seen anything of a " bloody dog!" Yes, Watts had seen the very dog ; in fact, he knew it was the right dog and it was tied to a load of hay — no doubt stolen by the owner of the hay ! And he pointed out to the English- man the direction driven by the hay man. Off went the Englishman, wrathfully denouncing the dog thief, and in course of time found the hay wagon and his dog attached thereto in front of Barney Williams' store, the owner of the team making some purchases inside, quite unsuspecting the trouble in hand. Wrathfully approaching him, the English- man demanded why he had stolen his dog? Of course, the surprised man could not answer such a question as that, and demanded, heatedly, what was meant! There was some merry cross-firing before the dog owner pointed out his setter, quietly asleep at the end of the load of hay and altogether unconscious of the row he had occasioned. There was almost a fight, for the Englishman could not understand how such a trick could be a "joke," and departed with his dog, calling 78 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL everybody "bloody fools' ' and similar epithets. Jerry Beebe and Al Carr were also merry jokers, and pulled off many of the "practical" kind. On one occasion the "Banbury twins" with a select few friends blackened their faces, and, driving around among the neighbors, serenaded them with "coon songs" without having their identities discovered. But in spite of all, there were days when the people, at least the women folks, were forced into a feeling of homesickness in spite of themselves. They missed the conveniences and asso- ciations of their old homes in Indiana, or in "Marshalltown!" The water was "riley" sometimes, and not infrequently a wriggling worm or tiny trout found its way down the pipes, and made the good housekeeper pine for civilization. But this feeling was but temporary; a look from the door at the vast mountains, ever alluring, a peep at the blue skies, and the benediction of it was upon them — they became satisfied. When R. Williams moved into his new building, Will Wakeley secured the one he vacated, and put in a stock of hardware and tinware, in which line he was successful. But "Billy" later on sold this business and engaged in another, more to his liking, to wit a "curio" and taxidermy shop, which embraced in its scope the collection and mounting of horned toads and tarantulas ; also other specimens of natural history — a place of much interest to small boys. Which leads up to a story. Some one, with a desire to get even with Wakeley 's well known proclivity for practical joking, circulated among the school boys, as a piece of news, that Wakeley was anxious to add tadpoles to his museum, and would pay ten cents a quart for them ! Now be it known that in the early days, there was a great crop of tadpoles in the muddy reservoirs. It was a happy inspiration to the boys, therefore, to go to the reservoirs for the tadpole supply. Hence it happened that on the Saturday following the infor- mation, came boys, and many boys — each with a bucket or convenient receptacle — all loaded with squirming tadpoles! It didn't matter that Billy protested, objected, objurgated ; the boys continued to come and offer their fine collection of tad- poles! When the boys finally realized the "joke," they, one and all, just set their buckets full of offerings of wriggling "poles" down on the floor and departed! It took some time for Wakeley to clear up the premises and dispose of the crop, and much longer to recover from the consequences of the "joke." PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 79 There came the first Christmas when all made merry as best they could. There was no snow like "back home," of course, and it seemed unreal. It did not seem to the children that Santa Claus could ever come to them away off here; for how could he drive a sleigh where there was no snow? Yet they gathered in each other's homes and recounted memories of past Christmases and told yarns of the old times. Per- haps, this first Christmas, there were some tears shed; but, all in all, the first year of the Colony brought with it encour- agement and some content; and certainly the hopes of the settlers were not diminished even if mingled with some alloy. CHAPTER XII— 1874-1875 Progress — A School MISS JENNIE CLAPP Pasadena's First School Teacher THE FIRST SCHOOL AND A SCHOOLHOUSE. THE FIRST BORN CHILD OF THE COLONY. HERE were some children, of course — not many, but these needed instruction and the discipline of a teacher. There was yet no school, nor even any school officials to get them one. So, by and by, a meeting of par- ents was held — this was the first Parent Teachers Association ! — to consider what to do. As a matter of course, it was decided that a school must be had. A petition was prepared, addressed to the Board of Supervisors, which was signed by everyone in the Colony. This petition was in due course granted, and a new school district, to be called after the name of the ranch — San Pas- quale School District — was authorized. Then our old friend Thomas Croft — who, though having no children of his own, was as much interested as anyone — was named census-taker for the new district, while Henry Gr. Bennett and Jabez Banbury were appointed school directors. These were the first officials in the new Colony, and performed their duties promptly and well, as would be expected of them. Of course there must be a teacher. The salary must be small ; but no matter, there was a teacher right at home who would fill the bill — the daughter of one of the settlers, Miss Jennie Clapp. The appointment was tendered her and accepted, and to Miss Clapp, now Mrs. Frank J. Culver — yet living — belongs the honor of being the very first teacher employed in the San Pasquale School District. There being as yet no building for the purpose, Miss Clapp 's father ten- dered the use of a room in his home, and here Miss Jennie 80 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 81 opened her school, September 10th, 1874. The Clapp house was located on Orange Grove Avenue, on the southwest corner of California Street, where the family lived from their coming until death claimed both Mr. and Mrs. Clapp.* Just two urchins with scholastic ambitions appeared at the opening of the "school" and of course they were the "Banbury twins," Jennie and Jessie. ' ' But in a short time no less than sixteen pupils were enrolled and the little parlor became too small for them. Once again, the Colonists met, as was their custom when affairs were to be settled, and it was decided that a real schoolhouse must be built. Three hundred dollars was soon col- lected and in October, 1874, a plain, rough board building was built on Orange Grove Avenue, close to the Clapp home. This was Pasadena's first schoolhouse. Its further history will be narrated under the chapter on schools. LIST OF COLONISTS WHO CAME IN 1874-75 During the first and second years of the Colony the pur- chasers having settled down to hard work, cleared their lands and made a showing of results which may now be counted and their names recorded here. These were the real pioneers of the first, or Indiana Colony, for it was not until 1878 that its sister, the Lake Vineyard Colony, was established. I will deal with that in good time. Eostee of 1874-75. HELEN WENTWORTH, Born 1874 Pasadena's first baby Barcus, W. J., 1874, Ind. Barcus, Mrs. W. J., 1874, Ind. Baker, J. H., 1874, Ind. Baker, Mrs. J. H, 1874, Ind. Baker, Edwin, 1874, Pa. Banbury, Jabez, 1874, Iowa. * " Billy" Clapp, Pasadena's first City Engineer, was the brother of Jennie Clapp Culver. "Billy" was a popular and prominent member of the Colony, one of the few young men who lived here in the Colony's first two or three years of existence. In fact, until the Lake Vineyard Colony was opened up, there were very few young men and women among the settlers. 82 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL Boster op 1874-75, Continued. Banbury, Mrs. J., 1874, Iowa. Banbury, Jessie, 1874, Iowa. Banbury, Jennie, 1874, Iowa. Banbury, Morton, 1874, Iowa. Banbury, Thomas, 1874, Canada. Bennett, Henry G., 1874, Mich. Bennett, W. J., 1875, Mich. Berry, D. M., 1874, Ind. Berry, Jessie, 1874, Ind. Bristol, A. 0., 1874, Iowa. Bristol, Mrs. A. 0., 1874, Iowa. Clapp, W. T., 1874, Mass. Clapp, Mrs. W. T., 1874, Mass. Clapp, W. B., 1874, Mass. Clapp, Jennie, 1874, Mass. Conger, Dr. 0. H., 1874, N. Y. Conger, Mrs. 0. H., 1874, N. Y. Conger, Flora, 1874, N. Y. Clark, Geo. P., 1874, R. I. Croft, Thos. F., 1874, Ind. Cooley, W. E., 1874, Mass. Cooley, May, 1874, Mass. Dana, A. W., 1874, Mass. Edwards, Alex., 1874, Ind. Edwards, Mrs. Alex, 1874, Ind. Elliott, Dr. T. B., 1875, Ind. Elliott, Mrs. T. B., 1875, Ind. Elliott, Helen, 1875, Ind. Elliott, Agnes, 1875, Ind. Elliott, Whittier, 1875, Ind. Elliott, Georgia, Ind. Fletcher, Calvin, 1875, Ind. Gibson, N. R., 1875, Ind. Giddings, L. W., 1874, la. Giddings, G. L., 1874, la. Giddings, E. W., 1874, la. Giddings, J. Reed, 1874, la. Giddings, Miss (2), 1874, la. Green, P. M., 1874, Ind. Green, Mrs. P. M., 1874, Ind. Green, Miss Mary, 1874, Ind. Greene, Frank W., 1874, Mass. Hurlbut, E. F., 1875, 111. Harry, Wm., 1874, Ind., and family. Lippincott, T. E., 1874, Pa. Locke, Erie, 1874, Ind. Locke, Mrs. Erie, 1874, Ind. Lockhart, T. J., 1874, Ind. Lockhart, L. J., 1874, Ind. Matthews, J. M., 1874, Ohio. McQuilling, A. K, 1875, 111., and family. Millard, Elisha, 1875, Ind. Mosher, Rev. W. C, 1874, N. Y., and family. Mundell, I. N., 1874, Ohio. Mundell, Mrs. I. N. Porter, 0. A., 1874, Ind. Porter, Mrs. 0. A., 1874, Ind. Porter, Don C, 1874, Ind. Raab, D., 1870, 111., and family, (not a member of the Colony proper) Richardson, Geo. A., 1875, Mass. Rosenbaum, M, 1874, la. Rosenbaum, Mrs. M., 1874, la. Strickland, Ney, 1875, Ga. Turner, Edson, 1874, 111. Turner, Mrs. E., 1874. 111. Turner, Bruce, 1874, 111. Turner, Charles, 1874, 111. Turner, Edson, Jr., 1874, 111. Wallace, Joseph, 1875, Canada. Wallace, Mrs. J. Wallace, Miss E., 1875, Canada. Washburn, S., 1874, la. Washburn, Mrs. S., 1874, la. Watts, Chas. H., 1874, 111., and family. Wooster, P. G., 1875, Maine. Wooster, Mrs. P. G., 1875, Maine. PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 83 Besides those named severa] had purchased property, but had not become residents, or had remained but a brief time. There were about half dozen of these. The Giddings family, also, were not members of the Indiana Colony at this period, but owned a large tract on the foothills and later became active members of the Indiana Colony. A daughter of L. W. Hollingsworth, who was the first locator in the Lake Vineyard Colony tract, married J. E. Grid- dings. Both have grown to be prominent citizens, Mrs. Gid- dings having been a president of the Parent Teachers Association. A sister, Mrs. W. T. Yore, is the mother of Pasadena's second born boy — Jesse. The " first born" of Pasadena was Helen Wentworth, daughter of George Went- worth. She was born in a house that was located on the Pg-.ii ssifcii ii ,• in anai ii i in i 12 T»iJJ aa=ni -_, POLYTECHNIC_HIGH SCHOOL GROUP Joseph Wallace place, on the northwest corner of Lincoln Avenue and Orange Grove Avenue. Little Helen made her appearance some time in 1874, exact date unknown, and her advent was so appreciated that the colonists raised a fund to buy a perambulator for her. She is now Mrs. Earl E. Davis and is living in Alaska. The first boy born in the Colony was the son of Mr. and Mrs. Charles H. Watts, a son of its first bride and groom. According to the best informa- tion, at the end of its first two years of existence, not more than 125 persons, including children, were in the settlement. Enough to be chummy and sociable, but room for more. There were a few families living outside of the Colony proper, notably the Wilsons, the Shorbs, the family of James Craig, who lived at "The Hermitage/ ' near Lamanda Park, and which later became prominent in the Colony, as were the Wilsons and Shorbs. There was also the Titus family, the Winstons, the Stonemans and a few others. These, then, were 84 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL literally the " first families" of the Indiana Colony — not con- sidering, of course, the Indian aboriginals ! They were not proud and haughty over the fact, because they had not occasion to "put on family airs." They wel- comed with delight the coming of new families, who might add to the social pleasures and lighten the monotony of pio- neer life. It is a pleasant thing to relate that many sons and daughters of these "first families" have maintained their fealty to Pasadena and have steadfastly remained to see its evolution from a sheep pasture to a splendid municipality. CHAPTER XIII Choosing a Name THE COLONY, HAVING OUTGROWN ITS SWADDLING CLOTHES AND HAVING A POST OFFICE OFFERED TO IT, MUST PERFORCE CHOOSE A FITTING COGNOMEN WHEREWITH TO MAKE ITS CLAIMS BETTER KNOWN. |HE name Indiana Colony i; had to go. The postoffice department demanded a more fitting one when the colonists requested a post- office. Also, the colonists themselves believed by this time that the "Col- ony" might — some time — become a " village,' ' or even a "town!" The question was mooted among the pio- neers and a meeting called to decide the matter at the schoolhouse. This meeting was held April 22d, 1875. This meeting, also, seems to have considered other business, as the minutes show. The question of dividing the Arroyo lands into "wood lots," a much discussed question, also came up for settlement, and the minutes state that "after a lengthy discussion in the torrid, temperate and frigid zones," the division of said lands was approved by a vote of 119 shares (of stock) in favor to 21 against. President Eaton presided and D. M. Berry was secretary of this important meeting. The Origin of "Pasadena" When the question of a proper name for the Colony came up for settlement ; in fact, it had been mooted for some time and had occasioned much discussion, "New Grenada" was suggested by a lover of Irving, and "Indianola" by a Hoosier — a not inappropriate name for a Hoosier settlement. D. M. Berry, secretary of the association, was for "Muscat!" What 85 DR. T. B. ELLIOTT who named Pasadena 86 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL a burden that would have been upon us! Berry, who was fond of classics, also suggested a Greek work, "Kleikos," dropping the letter "g" from Kleigkos. Perhaps this was a joke of Berry's, but as a fact I have seen a letter of his urging this very name — and the letter is quite serious in other respects. But, happily, there was one who believed that a name of Indian derivation would at least be appropriate ; therefore, he wrote to a college friend in the East soliciting assistance. This man was Tuttle Smith, whose father had been a mis- sionary among the Indians of Minnesota. The reply to this request was lost for thirty-one years, but finally discovered among the papers of the Orange Grove Association by Wil- liam McQuilling in 1905. Then it was again mislaid for a number of years, and but recently rescued. Fortunately, therefore, I am able to give this letter, now a valuable histor- ical document, to the readers. When this letter was submitted to the stockholders, and fully considered, a vote was taken which resulted in seventeen voting in favor of Pasadena and four against it. Thus was the colony presented with a new title under whose banner it has since pressed forward. Lettek of Prof. Geokge N. Smith, Coining the Name "Pasadena" * Northport, Mich., April 13th, 1874. ''Son Tuttle: I have taken considerable pains to get up answers to your question with the following result, but I am not satisfied you will find any acceptable name. Crown of the Valley, Weoquan, Pa-sa-de-na — a rather agreeablf name if you get the right sound and accent. I think I have marked it so that you can. Peak of the Valley, Gish ka de na — Pa-sa-de-na. Key of the Valley, Ta pe ka e gun — Pa-sa-de-na. Hill of the Valley, Pe qua de na — Pa-sa-de na. Cap same as Crown — Rostrum is not known in the language. The principal accent falls on the last syllable of each word, the marks indicating vowel sounds should be left off ; as a name. I should like the first, or the last, better than the others. There is no difference between Ottowa and Chippewa in these words, the Chippewa and jib way are convertible names, different ways of spelling by different writers. The Indians speak it Ojibwa, * Written to Tuttle Smith by his father, Geo. N. Smith, to whose erudition we owe the name Pasadena. CORRECTIONS On page 86, through inadvertence, proper credit has not been given Dr. T. B. Elliott for his part in the selection of the name Pasadena. Dr. Elliott was the correspondent of Tuttle Smith and it was to him that the letter on page 86 was written. Through this correspondence, as related, we are indebted to Dr. Elliott for the happy cognomen that Pasadena bears, and therefore our endless gratitude is his. Page 440, read Charles Coleman instead of Theodore (his father) as president of the Tournament Association for 1903. Theodore Cole- man was then a director and continued as such for several years. Page 476, eligibility to membership in Pioneer Society, read "Dec. 31, 1883" instead of 1884. PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 87 the initial slightly spoken, jib strong with i inclining towards our English I — the main accent on wa. The more I speak over the samples I give you, the more I am satisfied that either of the 4 would make an agreeable name. Either when spoken correctly would fall pleasantly on the ear. If I could give you the living example of the peculiar Indian mode of speak- ing the words, you would be able to appreciate them fully and I hope you will succeed from this paper. Write and let me know all about the matter. Most sincerely, Geo. N. Smith. Professor Smith chose well and the Pasadenans of today must accord him the obligation that is due him for choosing this highly distinctive and euphonious name for posterity. No less than three other aspiring towns have pirated it from us. Such is fame ! We have a broad field and some difficulty if we attempt to arbitrarily determine the exact meaning of the word. Pasa- denans in later years have attempted to do so by adopting " Crown of the Valley" as having the best and most appro- priate interpretation. Bearing further on this appropriate- ness it may be said that, according to Judge Eaton, Don Manuel Garfias, when owner of the ranch, gave his hacienda the title "Llave del Valle" — which signifies "Key of the Valley" and refers to the fact that his hacienda was so located that he could take note of the cattle passing from one part of the ranch to the other. Thus his house was "Key" to what went on there. At one time, also, this ranch was on the route of the Mission travel, the road from the San Gabriel to San Fernando passing over it — crossing the hills of San Rafatl, thence via Canada onward. CHAPTER XIV The Fiest Churches — Getting On AFTER THE SCHOOL CAME THE CHURCH, ONE GOOD FOR THE INTELLECT, THE OTHER GOOD FOR THE SOUL, BOTH THE USUAL APPENDAGES OF PROGRESS. THE FIRST PRESBYTERIAN AND THE FIRST METHODIST. HE pioneers, as they became settled and moved along in a regular daily orbit, with habitual and constant avocations, with prospects cheering and crops maturing, bethought themselves more and more of past habits and customs. Having, mostly, been trained in the good old habit of going to church o' Sundays, they now missed that practice and began to feel that it was, after all, an essential thing to their well being. They had their little school; they must also have a church, or at least a place of meeting where Sabbath services might be conducted. So it was appreciated when the Rev. W. C. Mosher, a mis- sionary and a resident, announced his intention of conducting religious services upon a certain Sabbath day. "Charley" Watts had done a serious thing; / ~ he had donated his 7w % bachelor cabin for this purpose. And it was in this cabin, located at the present northeast corner of Kensington Place and Orange Grove Avenue, on Au- gust 30th, 1874, that the first religious serv- ices in the Colony were held. There were pres- ent, besides the rever- end gentleman and his spouse, M. Rosenbaum FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, 1875 88 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 89 and wife, August Blix and wife, William T. Clapp and Miss Jennie ; just eight persons all told. History does not say, but perhaps " Charley" Watts was also present, in a secluded corner, and again, perhaps, he was out at the barn "fixing things, ' ' for ' ' Charley ' ' was rather careless of Sundays ! This little service was the precursor of the many splendid church organizations that were to follow. Succeeding to this beginning, two or three more meetings were held at the Watts home ; then the Mo slier home, at the corner of Walnut and Fair Oaks, being ready (he had pur- chased it from J. H. Baker, who in turn purchased in another place), the Reverend Mosher arranged to have the meetings held in his own home, which they accordingly were. Then, when the schoolhouse was finished at the end of the year, it was decided to hold services therein; the first meeting being held February 7th, 1875, Eeverend Mosher conducting it, the first formal sermon being then delivered. Sunday school services had also been conducted at the Mosher home by W. T. Clapp and D. H. Pike ; Clapp being a Congregationalist, Pike a Methodist and Mosher a Presbyterian — a cosmopolitan trin- ity. The second sermon was preached by Rev. Solomon Dunton, known as "Father" Dunton, the father of Mrs. Jabez Banbury. Dunton was a Methodist, but no re- gard was paid to sec- tarian dogmas in these early day sermons. The attendance now assured a permanent congregation and reg- ular services were held each Sabbath, Dunton and Mosher alternat- ing. On March 21st, 1874, the First Pres- byterian Church was organized at a meeting held for the purpose in the little schoolhouse. Twenty-two persons a •= $1.05 .925 .904 .885 .951 1.028 1.066 1.041 1.014 .966 .0253 «5 >> ra £ > 3 US "»fO0 HO ooost-NNoocoaxO'^oiin HO««a«0000050 Original City Tax Levy per 100 Valuation lOONOOOMOOOOOOOOOlftWOiflOO'i'OOOOTliH^HOOWM O^t-t-OHrlOOOO.OOOOOlfllBlflWMNOOmOHHHOOO ■ c "3.2 > 001,737 881,245 668,627 237,338 709,164 551,330 890,218 473,821 462,576 785,840 289,449 424,854 651,016 828,402 894,512 397,540 440,508 158,450 468,759 232,001 320,765 132,895 457,275 040,171 112,005 138,470 107,635 342,815 551,665 099,488 756,180 283,135 i-4-*ooc-Ttooooooooooa>OiHcoooa5int-asmt-cin 69- 15-2 ous r-lOO eo«. >i! So < $ 1,001,737 4,881,245 8,668,627 7,237,338 4,709,164 4,551,330 4,890,218 5,473,821 6,462,576 7,785,840 8,289,449 8,424,854 8,651,016 8,828.402 8,894,512 9,397,540 10,440,508 11,158,450 13,468,759 18,232,001 26,258,940 28,355,000 30,089,710 31,071,321 34,429,265 36,708,965 38,835,580 40,153,115 42,371,535 43,370,153 40,728,907 2,578,695 ©• - ^> ©r-icTHH r -ir-(^-iiHrHTH-^ eC it- o05 0iH« J"? 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Many of these metates and their accom- panying pestles have been found about the sites of former Indian villages and are sometimes yet to be found. But with the advent of Fray Zalvidea at the mission, busi- ness energy was instituted there, for the worthy friar believed in making lazy Indians labor as well as eat, and began a course of training that Avas different in many respects from the indolent past. It is said by historians of the period that when Fray Zalvidea couldn't overcome the aboriginal's reluctance to work and be baptized too, pretty vigorous efforts were fol- lowed to improve him. In fact, posses of troopers were sent into the hills to fetch the recalcitrants to book. This may explain the lengthy roster of acolytes that cheered the laboring friars. It was Fray Zalvidea who built the "Old Mill" by Wilson's Lake, and which for many years was an object of romantic interest. This mill was built in 1810-11, under the supervision of one Claudio Lopez, who stood grimly over the reluctant aboriginal while he toiled at his unaccustomed labor. It was built of stone Avith a tile roof, the Avails being from three to four feet in thickness. The Avater for driving the grinding wheels AA T as brought from a little stream called Mill Creek, rising in Los Robles Canyon and Avhich, after perform- ing its serA-ices at the mill, ran into the depression that formed a lake, in later years knoAA T n as Wilson's Lake. This lake was enlarged by building a dam across its loAA^er side and thus became valuable, because this stored Avater Avas used to run a saAA r mill, a tannery and for other useful purposes under the able direction of Father Zalvidea. The father Avas fast estab- lishing a system of business enterprises about the mission in which the neophytes were compelled to perform their part. These little industries supplied the country thereabout — and even to greater distance — with meal, tanned skins and saAved timber, becoming a source of revenue to the mission. So, if Ave feel inclined to criticize the severity of Fray Zalvidea, we neA T ertheless must concede him to be a man of business capacity, perhaps quite suited to the people whom he had pressed into his service. But the original mill Avas superseded by another, built in 1821-22, by one Joseph Chapman (for the mission), an adven- turous buccaneer or pirate, who by good luck Avas captured 548 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL by Spanish Californians and somehow acquired their friend- ship. He eventually married the daughter of a large land owner, became a substantial citizen and landed proprietor himself — a romance of itself ! The new mill, being located just opposite the mission, did the work needed and the old one was abandoned. In 1859 Col. E. J. C. Kewen purchased a tract of land including the original mill, and converted the mill into a dwelling, where he lived with his family for many years. Colonel Kewen became widely known as a democratic politician and as an orator. He was elected attorney general of the state. A son, Perry Kewen, now resides at South Pasadena and is fond of relating how he once hunted wildcats and foxes where Pasadena's business now centers. The original' 'Old Mill" passed into the hands of Col. E. L. Mayberry, who built a fine residence near it and lived there for many years. This property is now part of the Oak Knoll tract and the site of some fine villas. The mill itself is now the club house attached to the Huntington Hotel, and a golf club headquarters. One of the millstones used in grinding was secured by Mrs. Jeanne Carr, and is at present used as a doorstep at her late home on Kensington Drive. When Mrs. Carr built her home at Carmelita — long since removed — she procured some of the original tiles from the mission at San Gabriel and utilized them in constructing a fireplace in that home. The hearth was thus formed. The second mill herein mentioned was long ago destroyed, no trace now remaining. Here is a story of the "Old Mill ,, which is believed by many persons. An old German miller and his son, who once devoted themselves to grinding out grain from its rumbling stones, kept their gold and other valuables hidden in the mill. During an Indian raid a long, long time ago these millers, fearing the Indians might loot the premises, took their val- uables out to an oak tree at Oak Knoll, and secretly buried them under it, marking the tree carefully. Both of the men were killed by the Indians — it is said — in a skirmish that fol- lowed. As no one knew just where the gold was buried, it has never been found, but many have hunted and dug under numerous oak trees since, hoping to uncover it. Thus passeth the romance of the once famous "Old Mill." Perhaps a modern romance may some time hallow it — the romance of golf sticks and the effete business man endeavor- ing to rehabilitate a batered constitution and the girl. CHAPTEE LVIII South Pasadena OUTH PASADENA has grown with its sister city and now contains abont 8,000 population, has a city government of its own, well paved and 1 lighted streets, a fine public library and other things that go to make a fine "home" city. Two rail- roads pass through the city and a street car system connects at frequent intervals with Los Angeles and Pasa- dena. It is worth while to include in this history a brief resume of our sister GEORGE WELLMAN GLOVER city's claims to distinction. This author requested George Wellman Glover, a resident of South Pasadena for thirty- three years and well known writer, to furnish the required in- formation. South Pasadena by geokge wellman" glovek Because a portion of the lands originally bought for settle- ment by the San Gabriel Orange Grove Association are now within the city limits of South Pasadena the author has felt that there should be a chapter of his History of Pasadena de- voted exclusively to South Pasadena. I have been asked to write this chapter, which must of necessity be rather more limited as to length than some enthusiastic residents may deem just; but I am sure a close reading of the history will show that the subject has not been slighted. Bkief Genekal Histoky The first white settler in what later became South Pasa- dena was Mr. David M. Eaab. Buying a ranch of some thirty acres from Mr. D. B. Wilson, he built his house on the site 549 550 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL still occupied by Ms widow and those of his children that are not the heads of families of their own. The sightly location on the brow of the hill overlooking the entire valley was chosen both for the sake of utility and of beauty. Later, when the new house was built, it was constructed to face Buenavista Street. Mr. Raab came in 1870. Carl Raab, now a resident of El Monte, with his family, was the first child to bring joy to the new settler. He was born February 4th, 1873, thus coming along just nine months and nine days too soon to claim the honor of being the first born in Pasadena. True, he was right on the ground, but at that time there was no Pasadena, the incorporation having been consummated on November 13th, 1873, and settlement even later. Considering the wonderful growth and success in every way of Pasadena, who shall dare assert that there can be anything unlucky about the number 13? However, before the settlement was far advanced, some of the early settlers were hard at work getting out water, pre- paring to build their homes and in other ways demonstrating their faith in the future. Among these, and who chose loca- tions in what is now South Pasadena, were Messrs. P. M. Green, A. 0. Porter and William Barcus. Mr. Green and Mr. Porter built their houses very close together, for the sake of company, and they were the first plastered houses built in what is now South Pasadena. They still stand in a good state of preservation at the junction of Orange Grove Avenue and Oliver Street. At the time the first of what is generally known as the Indiana Colony arrived, there were but three houses in this portion of the country. They were the residence of Mr. D. M. Raab, the Garfias adobe, long ago disposed of, and the adobe house then known as the Bacon Ranch House, now better known as the property of" Mrs. Mary Belle Hardison. It stands on Garfield Ave- nue, just southeast of the Raymond Hill. The Gar- SOUTH PASADENA PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 551 fias adobe stood on the bank of the Arroyo Seco, on property now owned by the writer. The postoffice was established in South Pasadena January 1st, 1883, by Frank M. Glover, brother of the writer, and who died March 29th, 1884. The office was established in the north- east room, ground floor, of what was then Hermosa Vista, the first hotel in South Pasadena, and kept by Mrs. M. J. Glover, mother of the writer. This house still stands at this date, al- though after changing hands a couple of times it was remod- eled and changed into a modern residence, and is now owned by and is the home of Prof. George E. Hale, the eminent as- tronomer. This location was widely known as a health resort even at that early date. The first postmaster came here in the vain hope that he might be cured of tuberculosis. When he died the office was taken over by Mr. Charles Case, who held it but a short time before he, too, yielded up his life, a victim of the great white plague. Each had come too late for the climate to be of lasting benefit, although doubtless each had a little longer lease of life. At the death of Mr. Case the office was taken over by his widow, Mrs. Gertrude Case, daughter of an early settler, Mr. 0. R. Dougherty, who was prominent in the activities of early days here. Soon the office was moved from its location on Columbia Street, where Mr. Case took it on succeeding to the postmastership, to a location of greater con- venience to the little business center that was by this time springing up on and adjacent to Mission Street and Meridian Avenue. The office remained for several years on Meridian Avenue, just north of Mission Street. Then it was moved farther south on the same street, where it was more convenient to the Santa Fe Eailroad, which had by this time superseded the two four-horse stages that plied daily between Pasadena and Los Angeles, and took care of the mail of our postoffice as a call station. When the Santa Fe Eailroad changed its route through South Pasadena the postoffice was moved to a location on Mission Street, almost directly opposite where it is now located. Here it remained until the Alexander Build- ing was completed, when it was moved into spacious quarters in the new building and has remained there since. To make the line of postmasters complete, it may be added that Mrs. Keith, the present city librarian, succeeded Mrs. Case when she remarried. And she, in turn, was succeeded by Mrs. 552 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL Stephens, who held it until succeeded by her son, Mr. Eoy Stephens, who held it up to the time of the consolidation with the Los Angeles postoffice. Religious History From the best data obtainable there can be no doubt that the first religious services ever held in South Pasadena by white people was a series of services held by the famous old padres beneath the spreading branches of the old live oak tree that stands just adjacent to the spring that bubbles up from under Arroyo Drive, a couple of hundred feet south of where Hermosa Street joins Arroyo Drive. Old Spanish and Mexican residents who lived in this vicinity even after the arrival of the writer in 1884 used to tell of the services held there, and agreed that the services held there antedated the first services held at San Gabriel, before the building of the San Gabriel Mission was undertaken. This point was the tem- porary place of worship while working out in detail the plans for that historic old mission. A cross was at that time cut in the bark of the tree, and its dim outlines may yet be found by close observers, or by those who knew the location of it before time had so completely healed the wound. A third of a cen- tury ago, when the writer first observed this cross, it showed very plainly, and evidently had been cut deeply when it was made. Yet it will not take another third of a century for the great healer, Nature, to obliterate all vestige of it. Within the last year or so some person has applied a light coat of a bluish colored paint over the old cross, evidently in the hope that the exact location of it may be preserved, or else it may have been done for the purpose of photographing it. But even this is rapidly fading away, and it would seem to be a good thing for the Landmarks Club, or some other organiza- tion of record, to have the old cross recut sufficiently deep to preserve it ; of course, first getting the consent of the owner of the tree at the present time. Coming down to more modern times the first record that can be found and verified relating to religious organizations in this city show that about the 1st of October, 1885, a union Sunday school was organized in the South Pasadena school- house. The late Mr. George A. Green was elected superin- tendent, and Mr. George W. Wilson was chosen assistant superintendent. It was organized with the understanding that PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 553 it should come under the supervision of the first evangelical church to be organized here. The Sunday school was claimed by the Congregational Church, when that organization was completed in the building that then was known as the Sierra Madre College Building, but later was remodeled and made over, and for many years has been the residence of Mr. C. D. Daggett. Mr. Green went with the Congregational Church when it later built a new house of worship on the corner of California Street and Pasadena Avenue. The South Pasadena Methodist Church was organized in the fall of 1886, with Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Soper and Mr. and Mrs. H. J. Cone as charter members. Of these four Mrs. Soper is the only one yet living in this city, both Mrs. Cone and Mr. Soper having passed away, and Mr. Cone having left the city some years ago. The Baptist Church was organized in 1888, and soon there- after a house of worship was built on the north side of Mission Street, at the corner of Fairview Avenue, where services were held for a number of years, when the property was sold and a new and larger edifice was erected at their present location. Calvary Presbyterian Church dates its organization from the year 1892. An organization bearing the same name, how- ever, and worshiping in a chapel that was built on Columbia Street, came into existence in 1887; but by request made to the Presbytery of Los Angeles, it had by that body been disbanded. Next the St. James' Episcopal Church was established in 1901. And some years later their house of worship was built on the corner of Fremont Avenue and Monterey Boad. In 1904 the Christian Church was organized, and later the present house of worship was erected. Next came the organization of the Catholic Church in 1910. Property was bought on which to erect a house of worship, and later, the Holy Family Church will be built on the corner of Fremont Avenue and El Centro Street. In the meantime, services are regularly held in the temporary structure that has been used from the time the property was bought. Public Schools There appears to be a woeful lack of official data to be secured concerning the schools of South Pasadena in the early days ; and in fact up to a date long after such records would 554 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL naturally be supposed to be treasured and jealously guarded. However, gathering from personal memory and from older settlers, it seems to be pretty accurately stated when it is declared that Mr. Charles Case, the second postmaster of South Pasadena, was the teacher of the first school here. [Correct. — Ed.] The sessions were held in a small building that stood almost in the middle of what is now Eose Avenue, at the top of the hill, before that street was graded and the hill cut down. The building was erected with funds donated by the settlers, and it is a moot question as to whether there were six or seven pupils in the first term of school. The little old building is still in existence, but since its removal and incorporation in another house its identity practically is lost. It was moved down the hill to the Scharff place early in the '90s or late in the '80s, and at its new location additions were made to it, since which time it has been used at various times as a residence and a storehouse. Mr. John Lewis Childs of Floral Park, N. Y., now owns the property and the house. The unfortunate hiatus in the school records makes it impossible to state the wonderful growth of the South Pasa- dena schools by years. But it may be said without the fear of contradiction that the schools have had a very rapid growth since the beginning of that little school away back in the very beginnings of the '80s. The city now has four roomy and substantial elementary buildings, one kindergarten building and two kindergarten schools housed in rented quarters, in addition to the magnificent group of high school buildings. The enrollment in the elementary department last year was 950 ; in the high school, 325 ; and in the kindergarten, 100. To take care of these bright young minds and fit them for the future requires the services of thirty-four teachers in the elementary department, nineteen in the high school and four in the kindergarten. The high school of South Pasadena has a very high stand- ing, and the regular course of studies is superior to some other high schools. The high school was formally established December 3d, 1904. That year a class of but five pupils were given instruction in ninth grade work by Professor Harter, at that time supervising principal of city schools and teacher of the eighth grade. The following year quarters were provided in the Center Street building, where the term opened with thirty-one pupils and two teachers. Then bonds were voted PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 555 in the sum of $75,000, and with this money a six-acre tract bounded by Fremont Avenue on the east, Diamond Avenue on the west, Bank Street on the north and Eollins Street on the south was secured at a cost of but $15,000. With the remain- der of the money the first building was erected, work on which was begun in July, 1906. On April 8th, 1907, the school was transferred to the new building. In 1913 it became necessary to add two more buildings, and the Manual Arts and Household Economy buildings were erected in that year. The schools of South Pasadena are always crowded. They have a good name, hence it is almost impossible to build ahead with sufficient speed to provide at all times the room that seems to be required. CHAPTER LIX The Beginneks in Pasadena RE COED of the "original" in various lines of endeavor would be very interesting if obtainable. But that is an impossible undertaking now. Here is an interesting as well as a valuable historic record for future information. The first baby born was Helen Wentworth, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George Wentworth. She saw light on what was then the Joseph Wallace place, on the northwest corner of old Fair Oaks Avenue and Mountain Street (now East Orange Grove and Lincoln avenues). Born in 1874 — exact date not obtainable. The first store was a small frame building on South Orange Grove Avenue, just below Colorado Street (No. 59), M. Rosenbaum, proprietor. The first church — the Presbyterian — built in 1875 on Cali- fornia Street, just east of Orange Grove Avenue. The first schoolhouse was built on South Orange Grove Avenue, just south of California Street, in 1875. The first teacher was Jennie Clapp. The first public religious services were held at C. H. Watts ' bachelor cottage, August 30th, 1874, Rev. W. C. Mosher con- ducting them. The first regular sermon was preached in the schoolhouse, February 7th, 1875. The first wedding was that of C. H. Watts and Millie Locke, March 12th, 1875. The first drug store was the Pasadena Pharmacy, con- ducted by this writer — February, 1883. The first "official" citizen was I. N. Mundell, who was appointed road overseer, 1875. The first postmaster was Henry T. Hollingsworth, appointed September 21st, 1876. The first bank was the Pasadena Bank, organized Novem- ber 21st, 1884. It began business January 12th, 1885. P. M. Green, president. 556 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 557 The first " practicing ' ' barber was A. S. Hollingsworth, who had a chair in the corner of his father's store. The first shop was opened on North Fair Oaks Avenue in 1883 by a man named Eossi, and afterwards moved to West Colorado Street ; later purchased by Joe Laspada, who still owns it. The first harness shop was owned by Harry C. Price, who opened up in 1883. The first automobile was owned by Eobert H. Gaylord. It was of French " extraction' ' and was a thing of wonder to all beholders. The first photographer was George Weingarth, who opened the "Ferndale Gallery' ' in 1882. Some of the old pictures in this book were from his photographs. The first real estate dealer was T. P. Lukens. The first telephone was put in Williams' store in Decem- ber, 1883, and the first "Hello" was made by Wesley Bunnell. The first bicycle owned in Pasadena was owned by Will Hisey. It was one of the "big wheelers." The first bicycle shop was opened by Ed Braley just where his fine four-story building now stands. The first dentist was John White. The first lumber yard was started by J. Banbury. The office stood where the Metcalf Building now is — on Colorado Street, by the Santa Fe tracks — 1883. Charley Evan built the woodwork of the first wagon built in the city. He was probably the first hardwood worker in the city, 1884. The first blacksmith was J. H. Baker, and his shop was on the corner of Fair Oaks Avenue and Walnut Street, 1875. The first bakery was run by Fulford & Crozier in the Mullins Block, South Fair Oaks Avenue, 1884. The first buggy was owned by Sherman Washburn. The first newspaper was the Chronicle — Ward Brothers, owners ; Charles M. Daly, editor — 1883. The first billiard room was owned by Jerome Beebe in 1884. The first milk route established in 1883 by L. A. Carey. The first express office — Wells, Fargo Company — 1885. C. A. Sawtelle, agent. The first train came into Pasadena on the San Gabriel Valley Eailroad, September 21st, 1885. John D. Eipley was a fireman on that engine. The first mail via train arrived September 25th, 1885. 558 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL The first gas used for lighting was made by an engine owned by R. Williams and supplied Wood's Drug Store and Williams Building. October 22, 1885, was the occasion. The first arrest was of a -"dago" who had imbibed too much "dago red" and was hauled to the Los Angeles "jug" by Tom Banbury, deputy sheriff. The first house was built by A. 0. Bristol, February, 1874. The first death was that of William Green Porter, June 13th, 1876. The first city election was held June 7th, 1886. The first book store and news stand was owned by Thomas Grimes. The first doctor was J. M. Radebaugh, who came in 1882. The first architect was C. B. Ripley. Also the first builder. The first dry goods store was opened by A. Cruickshank in 1883. The first nursery was owned by Byron 0. Clark. The first ice company was the Pasadena Ice Company. The first brickyard was run by Goss, Simons & Hubbard. The first brick store building was built for Craig & Hub- bard, grocers, where the Brunswick Billiard Hall is. This was in 1885. The first (and almost only) brick residence was built by B. F. Ball on North Fair Oaks Avenue in 1879. The first hardware store was owned by Will Wakeley. The first paper route was run by Whit. Elliott, who went to Los Angeles at 2 A. M. each day for his papers. H. Corday was the first tailor. CHAPTER LX The Final Wokds N saying these last words, which parts the writer from his patient reader, I naturally feel that regret which comes with a parting from an agreeable companion at the termination of a long journey. My chief hope is that this companion may feel — equally with myself — the same tinge of regret, or at least, so much of it as will satisfy him that the journey has not been entirely with- out profit, pleasure and information. I have had a long span of years to encompass on this journey. Perhaps I went too far back when I took the leap to that romantic period when the sandal-footed friar wan- dered, patiently, from post to post in the work of the Holy Church. But I believe that California owes much to these self-denying missionaries who gave themselves to the work of Christianizing aborigines and establishing a better civilization in this land. Coming down to a later, more modern, date, it seemed proper, in fact, necessary, to pause a little at that unforgettable period when romance dwelt in the land and endowed it with its palpitating atmosphere. Nowhere in the United States but in California could such life be lived, for it is the history of all nations that climate and environment pro- duce their own temperamental types and mold the life of peoples. I like to dwell upon the time when the Caballero, like the troubadour of old, came on starlit nights, when the atmosphere was redolent of perfume, and sang to dark-eyed senorita behind restraining window bars, and who wore as the fair one's guerdon her accolade of bright-hued lovers' knot. I like to dwell upon the brief years when the Eancho San Pascual had its own Lady Chatelaine — if but for a time — who conferred upon it such sentimental distinction as fair duenna might. Oh, romance ! that it must vanish so before the tramp of the gringo, who so heartlessly replaced the lattice windows with Yankee-made shades, and the patio with a porch ! Those were tranquil days, days when existence was manana, when the sire was a patriarch, when the sons were 559 560 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL gay Caballeros, and the daughters ever lovely and beautiful. Then the flocks wandered in peaceful content over virgin pas- tures, treading their brilliant floral embroideries under heed- less feet. Then priests wended their pious footsteps from post to post, and leather-coated sons of Mars surrendered to the compelling lures of Eros and became patient spouses, engaging in peaceful pastimes and in raising families. This was before the gringo looked with covetous eyes upon this fair land, and took full note of the too confiding dons' prodigal ways. No one may contemplate the passing of these hospitable dons without a sentiment of regret — even if conceding it neces- sary to the progress that was irresistible. But we must pass on, leaving behind us these pleasant memories, and give place to the "yanqui" from Indiana, from Iowa, or from wherever he might come, that he might set up his more modern shrine wherein sentiment had but little part. And these invaders ! The pioneers had few traditions to hamper them. Habits and customs might cling to them with stubborn persistency — and did. But a new horizon was opened up, and it behooved them to evolve from it a far better ultimate than did past conditions divine. Here was found a beneficent climate, fertile soil and beauteous environ- ment — stimulus to great things, to high ideals of life. Here was the melting pot of ideas from which there must come a gracious measure of new life. So, it was their duty and must be their pleasure to "make good," to transform the gifts that nature had bestowed upon them to a practical utilization. Would they do it ? And they did cast about them for the ways to invest these blessings and utilize them. The canyons distilled from the winter's storms sparkling pools and streams, which came singing down their pebbly beds. The alchemy of soil, and water, and sunshine gave back luscious fruits, rare vintages and nourishing grains. Here, indeed, was fair foundations of a splendid common- wealth! The eyes of Lynceus were said to see through the earth. The pioneer had no such vision, but he did perceive phenomenal promise in the land of his adoption and fortunate choice. We know the results. The pioneer does not claim all of the habiliments of this goodly city to be of his foreordain- ing. But he did his part. Came the transformation from sheep pastures to a community of happy people ; came Flora, PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 561 Pomona, Ceres — all fairy goddesses contributing their lux- urious endowments. Water and land, and the guiding hand of man — what glory of attainment ! But it was not all as easy as it sounds, or to read about. Indeed, no ! Deprivations and hardships went hand in hand, even though there were always alluring dreams to bring hope. The husbandman who busied his days pruning trees and in directing the living streams through thirsty furrows dreamed of oranges at $5 a box, and became muy pronto, a three-tailed Bashaw, with Pactolean streams flowing in sweet rhythm from his gold-minting groves. Alas — dreams not often realized ! Came then, and later, the vanguard of speculators, acclaim- ing new emprise and offering honorariums of real gold. Gold was bartered for land, and land again for more gold. Those who had waited with patient philosophy found their vigils ended and opportunity knocking loudly at their doors. The end seemed achieved, though in an unexpected way, and it was accepted, at first, dubiously. They had become subjects of the superman. But the superman begat a city. An ancient philosopher declared that man, abiding amidst beautiful things, must of necessity become a finer, a better man. This because the constant contemplation of beauty expands the imagination, purifies the soul and creates higher purposes. If Plato was right — and I am sure he was — then the coming generations who may live here, must be a superior people, with lofty ideals and accordant practices, setting up on a high pedestal of desire the achievements that are programed in the round of their existence. To habitats such as these must come philosophers, poets, artists, and workingmen, too, with visions of altruism and of the beautiful, a fixed ambiton. The rich will here build mansions ; the lesser rich bungalows no less worthy, for the joy of living is not measured by mil- lions spent in palaces. There are many cities more important and there are some very beautiful on this American continent. But there can be none lovelier to those who desire lovely places to reside in, and where every horizon adds to the picture. Travelers in Europe affect to call Southern California the Italy of America. But we who call this our home, deride comparisons and scorn even the gardens of the Mediterranean with their unhappy poor. 562 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL For about us here, we may see even humble life enjoying the luxuries of climate and beauty, alike with the rich and the more rich; for it costs little money and little effort to trans- form a bare span of soil into a delightful garden equal to those that decorate the hills of Sicily. For one thing, Pasadena presents no streets of wretchedness, nor sordid poverty, to rend the soul or distress the heart. Pass through these miles of fine paved avenues with their grassy parkings and lawns, always green and well groomed! Note the prodigality of flowers and shrubbery in such well- ordered profusion. The kingdom of Flora has been ravished for rare varieties to add to the symposium of beauty. And lining the streets, trees little known outside of California lend their grateful shade and form vistas of beauty — the pepper, the camphor, the acacia and others equally as picturesque. Within these lovely gardens are set the dwellings of men, each with its own architectural distinction, no matter whether humble bungalow or spacious villa ; for it is the passion of the Pasadena builder to give his own touch of personality to the home he creates. And it does not take long to produce these charming effects in this exuberant climate. A year or two perhaps, and the once bare lot assumes the aspect of a real garden, with its fascinations of multi-hued flowers, and per- golas of drooping roses whose bloom may never cease. Trel- lises bear rich floral burdens and sunny gables sustain fragrant arabesques of color. It may be the millionaire's mansion or the Chinaman's shack; each may sport its graceful festoons of purple or white wistaria, or the pergola be a bower of glorious Kaiserin, of Henriette, or of any other hundred varieties of roses. The lawn is always there, neat and trim, a carpet upon whose emerald flowers the gorgeous crimson stars of the poinsettia or the flaming scarlet banners of the canna. In yonder shaded corner blooms, in an ardent pyra- mid, the scarlet-trumpeted hibiscus, hint of far distant isles in tropic seas, where dusky-eyed houris chant amorously from leafy ambuscade. These are some of the pleasant things that greet one in Pasadena. And then there is the country outside, where orchards and orange groves yet exist, and where sweeping spacious fields may yet be seen, in spite of a spreading city's demands. To these country highways lead, and tempt the pedestrian to rural delights, the joy of living unhampered. Here a skylark's note PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 563 rises in clarion welcome or the robin bids cheerful sociability. Here, too, the sunshine spills its golden beams and fills the air with intoxicating vigor ; and the mountains, ranged against a torquoise sky, proclaim the rhythmic cadences of a California summer. Pasadena, the Jewel City in the constellation of Cities Beautiful, should be a constant inspiration to the highest in civic pride and civic virtue. Let no profane hand drag its banners into reproach, or write upon its escutcheons inglo- rious records. Dollars must not usurp ideals, and dollars must not be the highest sum of things when considering public expenditures. There is a point beyond which economy may be an economic waste and prodigality a cardinal virtue. Would anyone, now, replace the Colorado Street bridge with a plainer structure, or the Polytechnic School with a cheaper one! Of course not! Our public structures must harmonize with the native beauties that have been our heritage and delight. A new city hall, a library, an auditorium — let them come in time, but not without due observance of the beautiful. Augustus said he had received Borne in brick and would leave it in marble ; so the builders of Pasadena must leave in marble — or its equivalent — edifices that will testify to its material progress and civic pride. Of all things, let these be beautiful to the eye, an appeal to the intellect ! Look upon the beauty of the mountains that fringe the horizon ; look upon yonder lovely valleys, and upon the tender skies above ! Each has its wondrous charm, its splendid fas- cination! Compare them with Kashmere; we scorn Kash- mere! Compare with the gardens of Samarkand; who knows the Indus except in song and story? Scheherazade may have disported her loveliness in fragrant groves, in floral retreats ; but were they lovelier than the gardens of Oak Knoll, of Orange Grove Avenue? Perhaps so, but I have a right to doubt it, though harking to the song of Omar. The Falernian hills were not lovelier than those of Linda Vista, or of San Rafael ; nor the promontories of Lesbos greener. Watch the eastern ranges as they disclose themselves against the rising sun, ponderous and inspiring silhouettes of opening dawn. Note the kaleidoscopic marvels that paint their camoes on the skies each hour, until night drops his conquering mantle. Can one see these transformations daily and not feel, with Clarence Urmy, the lotus of Bagdad in his veins ? 564 PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL "The purple shadow of an angel's wing Is flung across the range, and softly creeps Adown the mountainside; the rocky steeps Are blurred with veils of amethyst that fling Their filmy folds round barren spots that cling To jagged slopes; the yawning canyon keeps Fond tryst with dusk, the windless forest sleeps, With naught save one faint, long line lingering." The resident of Pasadena, having once eaten of the lotus, is an heir to good fortune. He may not even care to change his habitation for Paradise, though he is getting attuned to it. Over its portals may fittingly be written, "Let him who enters here leave discontent behind. " Sitting at the feet of this modern Aphrodite of the West, whose charms allure, and whose loveliness must endure, the Pasadenan may, in patri- otic fealty, exclaim : Oh, may thy future be full of accom- plishment, may thy history be a record of civic virtues and artistic triumphs, and may the dweller herein be a mortal full of happiness and content ! A Pkognosis But of the future ? It may require no prophetic vision to see it. Invention and genius, well applied, will confer their magic, and we can in our horoscope, discern clearly a rehabili- tation that will give to this community a new fame. There will be no trolleys nor tracks to impede traffic or mar the landscape ; no unsightly poles to create objurgations. A great city will fill the valley and the foothills, from Altadena to Los Angeles, and there will be one ambition besetting its inhab- itants — that it will be the best of all cities ! Noisy trolley cars and nerve-wrecking gasoline autos will be replaced with a wonderful new motive power vehicle — an invention by a genius educated at Throop. A new library, a new Parthenon, will rear its classic walls above a grassy Acropolis. Within its doors endless stacks of books will lure the reader from far and wide, and in it the student will have his cosy corner to browse at his content. A city hall of splendid architecture will adorn the proper spot and cause the citizen to glow with pride at its mention. In one of the parks will be a heroic bronze representing, in allegory, the Pioneer and the things he wrought. A casino, the forum where civic affairs are dis- cussed by the citizens, and where the city band of forty-eight PASADENA— HISTORICAL AND PERSONAL 565 pieces will play each day, will be an accomplished fact — at last! Children's playgrounds everywhere; public baths in various convenient sections of the city will add to the good cheer of its people. And there will be citizens filled with wis- dom — the wise men of the town — who will be ready at all times to devote their spare time to the betterment of the community — men whose highest aim is patriotism and civic pride. Colo- rado Street will become the real Via Crucis and Appian Way of a better age, and there baazars of trade and the rounds of fashion will call the men and women in daily parade — bent upon errands of business and display of styles. There will be a municipal theater where talent of the highest will tempt both wise men and busy women to relaxation and enjoyment and fortify them for sterner duties. The coming New Zealander (or New Englander) who will pause, leaning upon the parapet of the Colorado Street bridge, will gaze with eager appreciation upon a city throbbing with joyous existence — the epitome of civic problems wrought to happy conclusion, and a citizenry filled with purposeful ideals. And thus the dreams of the civic idealist will have been here accomplished! So mote it be!