-**,.liP u<^ ■John i 1 c-nry u arr :0\!77 Dr. Ewing now makes his own, of the Reverend and Mrs. H.D. Griswold. Mr. Griswold, a Sanscrit and Urdu scholar, teaches the Scriptures and philosophy in Forman College, and is highly esteemed as one of our ablest and most schol- arly men. At his home during our five days in Lahore we enjoyed not only the company of Dr. Ewing, but also that of the Reverend and Mrs. Arthur H. Ewing of the Christian Boys' High School in Lodiana, — a school with an enrolment of more than a hundred students, that is doing important work, and among other things is preparing boys for the col- lege in Lahore. Mr. Ewing edits the Urdu paper of the Mission. I may also add that Mr. Griswold is the acting pastor of the native church in Lahore, and that he is now preparing a pamphlet in which he exposes the errors of the Arya Somaj, who are very active in the Punjaub and even bitter in their opposition to Christianity. We found Dr. Clark at the Griswolds', and were able shortly after our arrival to attend the closing meeting of the Christian En- deavor Convention which for two days he had been hold- ing. I wish that all my Christian Endeavor readers could have seen what we saw, and heard what we heard from Dr. Clark at this meeting. Delegates had come from various societies in the Punjaub. The singing was spirited and spiritual. After I had given an address Dr. Clark made one of his tender and searching speeches, leading up to the Consecration Meeting which was to close the convention. As the names of the different societies were called, they rose, in numbers ranging from one to half a score, and expressed their feelings and purposes, usually in Scripture selections. I was greatly moved when I saw and heard the testimony given by the Reverend N, P. Das, a beautiful man and a sweet Christian soul, now pastor of the Lodiana Church, the old- est of the Presbyterian churches in India. Not only did I come to have a new appreciation of the service of the Chris- tian Endeavor Society, but I felt also, and as never before, the moral sublimity of that mission work whose fruits are such earnest and loving confessors of Christ as rose in this 3/8 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. convention and renewed their consecration. Things seen are greater than things heard, and I sometimes feel that with all my reading and with all my familiarity with the tes- timony of missionaries, I never before had any adequate understanding of what it means, for earth and heaven, for time and eternity, to bring one soul to the light of Christ. These days in Lahore in the company of Dr. Ewing and his friends were almost like getting back to America. The close and delightful fellowships with such Americans with whom we had the joy of those who think and feel alike con- cerning the things of the Kingdom of God will be gratefully cherished. Dr. Ewing has a great name in India as a foremost Christian educator, beloved by missionaries of all churches and highly respected by non-Christians. A company of Brahmos who called last Sunday, speaking of Dr. Ewing's approaching visit to America, said to me, " Please do not keep him there one day longer than is absolutely necessary." We heard much of Dr. Ewing before our arrival in Lahore, and ever since our departure we have heard men sound his praises. We have every reason to be thankful for the high character and sympathetic wisdom of the American mission- aries in India. The morning after my arrival I lectured to the students of Forman Christian College, one of the finest bodies of young men that I have seen, and a larger com- pany of students, I am told, than is found in the Government College at Lahore. The Punjaubis are physically more stal- wart than the Bengalis. The new college building was the gift of Miss Kennedy of New York. What a glorious his- tory is associated with the names of Forman and Newton here in Northern India ! We had the pleasure of meeting one of the sons of Dr. Newton and the widow of Dr. For- man, and also quite a number of the missionary ladies who had come to Lahore to attend the convention and the lec- tures. Many will remember what reverence was paid by all classes of the Lahore community, Hindu, Mohammedan, and Sikh, when Dr. Forman died, and the story is told of the sister of an Anglican Bishop who, coming to the city DELHI, LAHORE, AMRITZAR. 379 and making a call upon a leading non-Christian family, thought that it would make a favorable impression to have it known that she was the sister of the Bishop. She was surprised to receive this reply, " We are not acquainted with the Bishop, but if you are related to Dr. Forman we are happy to make your acquaintance ! " The Church Mis- sionary Society came to Lahore at the invitation of the American Presbyterians, and as one of the Church mis- sionaries was speaking to some of the natives about the claims of Christianity, they said : " We do not intend to become Christians; but if we do we want to be- Christians of Dr. Forman's kind ! " Most of the inhabitants of Lahore are Mussulmans. There are more than eighty thousand of these disciples of Islam, while the Hindus number about fifty-four thousand and the Sikhs five thousand. Among the two hundred and ninety-eight students enrolled in Forman College, thirty- eight are Christians, sixteen are Sikhs, while the Hindus considerably outnumber the Mohammedans. Such colleges as this are, in my judgment, of essential importance in the evangelization of India, although the number of conversions and baptisms in college life may be few. Such is the power of prejudice, bigotry, and caste that if even a small number of these college men were baptized in one year, such an event would produce violent agitation, " would nearly empty the class-rooms, and the institution would for a time be shunned as a pestilence-haunted place." This fact shows the supreme importance of the Christian training of boys in the preparatory schools. But the college itself is a prepara- tory school for the sure-coming exodus of a host from the Egypt of Hinduism and Islam. The colleges of India have made possible such English-speaking missions as those of President Seelye, Joseph Cook, Dr. Pentecost, John McNeill, the Y. M. C. A. and Student Volunteer Move- ments, and the India Lectureship. Forman College ranks first in the Punjaub in the success of its students in passing the university examinations. 380 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. I am assured by Dr. Evving that the spirit in which for more than forty years the Presbyterian work has been carried on here has been that of the ParUaraent of Rehgions, — that is, the spirit of Christian courtesy. I was glad to meet in Lahore the son of one of my Christian correspondents, the Honorable Maya Das, and I was sorry that another of these correspondents, the Pundit Shiv Narain, the founder of the Deva Dharm Somaj, did not present himself. He has re- lapsed into Hinduism. We had the pleasure, however, of meeting Mr. B. B. Nagarkar, of Bombay, one of the Brahmo delegates to Chicago, who seconded, in a bright and sym- pathetic speech, the vote of thanks given at my closing lecture. One of our happiest experiences in India was an hour spent at our Boys' School known as the Rang Mahal, intimately associated with the name of Dr. Forman and now greatly needing a new building. It was the Prize Distribu- tion day, and Mrs. Barrows distributed to the winners perhaps a hundred volumes, among which were Webster's Diction- aries, Atlases, well-bound English Bibles, and books of good poetry. The three hundred and fifty boys, most of whom sat upon the ground in the open court, were attired in costumes and decked with turbans of all colors, so that they looked like a flower-garden. It was as bright and happy looking a company of children and youth as I ever saw to- gether. My young friends on the other side of the sea would have been greatly interested in the songs and recita- tions which we heard in English, Sanscrit, Urdu, Punjabi, and Persian. What American could listen unmoved to these Punjabi boys rendering a dialogue from William Tell about freedom from oppression, or reciting the second chapter of Matthew, the Twenty-third Psalm, the " Burial of Sir John Moore," Phillips Brooks's "O Little Town of Bethlehem," and Longfellow's " Psalm of Life " ! At this High School I met an old native Christian who told me with pride that he was one of Dr. Forman's first scholars. We visited the Forman Memorial Chapel, a new building DELHI, LAHORE, AMRITZAR. 38 1 on a busy street, where the gospel is daily proclaimed, and Sunday morning we heard the venerable Reverend Mr. Chat- terjee, who will be remembered as having visited our churches in America, preach in the vernacular to a large audi- ence of native Christians and others. We enjoyed the service, although I understood but two words, " civilization " and " consecration." I gave in Lahore four of the Indian lectures, — three in the Town Hall and one, Sunday evening, in the Presbyterian Church. Dr. Sime, who is at the head of the Department of Public Instruction in the Punjaub and is himself an earnest Christian, presided at the first of the Town Hall lectures ; the Bishop of Lahore, a scholarly man and a contributor to the Presbyterian school-work, presided at the second ; Colonel Robinson, the English Commis- sioner, took the chair at the third. The arrangements made for these lectures were admirable ; and the audiences, com- posed mostly of thoughtful Hindus and Moslems, listened with patient attention to my earnest argument for the world- victory of Christianity. The final vote of thanks was moved by Justice Chatterjee, perhaps the leading Hindu of Lahore. I regard the opportunity given me in the Punjaub capital as one of the privileges of my life. Yesterday we turned our faces southward, spending most of the day in the city of Amritsar, where we were entertained by Dr. and Mrs. H. M. Clark of the Church Missionary Society. This sacred city of the Sikh nation, and one of the chief commercial portals from India into Central Asia, has a population of more than one hundred and fifty thou- sand, and is the wealthiest city in the Punjaub. The Golden Temple, which rises from the sacred tank in the centre of the city, is the main attraction in Amritsar, except to those who find one of the chief joys of fife in the exami- nation and purchase of beautiful carpets. I confessed to extreme weariness, and inquired of Dr. Clark if it would take much time to see the Golden Temple. He replied that it would take three days to see it thoroughly. I told him that I would give one hour. He replied that it was an 382 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. American who said, " I guess we '11 do the Alps to-day, and I reckon we '11 do the Apennines to-morrow ! " The Golden Temple is well worth seeing. It is tiny, but beautifully situated in a little lake, the Pool of Immortality, which gives to it its sacredness. The domes are apparently all of gold, and this beautiful shrine is exquisite as it gleams both above and from the water. It is approached by a marble pavement, and inside it is elaborately decorated. This is the temple most revered by the Sikhs, a religious sect, somewhat military in character, which rose in the fifteenth century, monotheistic, with a high and pure morality. Its sacred scripture is the Granth, which forbids idolatry. But such are the tendencies here to idolatrous superstition that a great copy of the Sikh bible is worshipped in the Golden Temple. We saw the high-priest sitting be- hind the covered book, while hundreds of people streamed into the beautiful place and cast before it their offerings of rice, flowers, and shell money. So far as I know, this is the only place in the world where literal bibliolatry can be seen. In another part of the temple we witnessed a strange spectacle. Relays of men were reading the Sikh bible through aloud. They were under contract to do it, and the reading did not cease day or night. All this was for the purpose of stop- ping the plague in Bombay. After a delightful lunch party at Dr. Clark's, a visit to the carpet factory on the part of Mem Sahib, where she saw the autographs of the Czarowitz, Prince Albert Victor, and other distinguished visitors, came the lecture in the City Theatre, and then a long and re- freshing night ride on the way to this pearl of Indian cities, Agra, where we are the guests of the Reverend J. P. Haythornthwaite of the Church Missionary Society, Princi- pal of St. John's College. CHAPTER XXXII. AGRA AND THE TAJ MAHAL. A GRA is the crown of Asiatic cities, and the Pearl ■^~^ Mosque and the Taj Mahal are the fairest jewels in this diadem. Three names shine in Agra, — Akbar, greatest and wisest of Mogul emperors, the builder of the Fort ; Shah Jehan, his grandson, the builder of the Pearl Mosque and of the Taj Mahal ; and Mumtaz-i Mahal, the Chosen of the Palace, the Emperor's wife, for whom he built the most beautiful of all sepulchres. Akbar is a name great and pure enough to achieve and hold world-wide reverence. He was intrusted with a most difficult task, that of wisely and successfully governing an empire composed of different races and religions. Himself a Moslem, a disciple of the Koran which enjoins the extermination of infidels, he was better and more merci- ful than his own scriptures, and his name has become the synonym of religious toleration. In the famous Congress of the Creeds, which he assembled at his palace in Fateh- pur-Sikri, were gathered representatives of the leading re- ligions of Asia, although it is still a matter of historical dispute whether or not Buddhists were present. But the spirit of Akbar was more tolerant than that of the priests and moul- vies who contended before him. The Jesuit "padres" who had made a forty-three days' journey from Goa on the West Coast in response to the invitation of the Em- peror, appear to have employed the language of theological acrimony ; for the report has come down to us that they applied to Mohammed the name and attributes of the devil. Still these clever men made a great impression upon Akbar, 384 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. for he intrusted to them the instruction of his second son, Mourad, and the young prince used to begin his lessons with the words " O Thou whose names are Jesus and Christ." Akbar chose his wives from women of various faiths, and permitted them to worship each in her own way. Altliougli his scheme of a practical religious eclecticism was a failure, his vision, which Tennyson has embodied in crystal poetry, was more than a dream. The world rever- ences him who cherished it, and surely some evidences of truth and wisdom were not wanting to it. If Comparative Theology should ever build a temple, Akbar's would be a chief figure within it. Yesterday we stood by the alabaster slab in Akbar's magnificent tomb on which are written the ninety-nine names of God. Many-sided are the aspects of the Divine Nature, and many are the gates of the palace of darkness out of which men have walked into the light of the Eternal. At Secundra, six miles from Agra, is the massive red-sand- stone, pagoda-like structure, inlaid with white marble, in whose gloomy vault rests the body of the great Emperor. But on the highest platform, under the blue sky, is the beautiful cloister of lustrous marble, cut into lattice-work, in the centre of which is the cenotaph on which in Persian are inscribed the words " God is Greatest," " May His Glory Shine." Near by is a marble pillar, formerly cov- ered with gold, which once held the Kohinoor, most precious of all diamonds. The true Kohinoor, the Moun- tain of Light, in the world of religion, is genuine toleration ; and this has been removed from Moslem hands, and gleams in the treasury of the Empress-Queen, whose dominion has been called " the hugest outstanding Parliament of Re- ligions in the world." As I stood, in the early morning of this January day, looking out on the world of Indian life and the green fresh beauty of the Indian landscape, from the marble balcony of the Emperor's tomb, I could but remember how the Emperor's name was honored by those that, a few years before, had gathered from all the world in AGRA AND THE TAJ MAHAL. 385 an American city whose foundations were not laid till more than two centuries after Akbar had ended his weary life. Inside the magnificent red wall of the Agra Fort we saw what is left of the palaces and mosques of the Mogul rulers. These buildings are now jostled by English barracks, and some of them are sadly mutilated by cannon-balls ; but they surpass by far anything that we have yet seen of Moham- medan architecture. The audience halls; the suites of palatial rooms; the latticed balconies, with their superb views over the Jumna ; the balcony from which Shah Tehan, in the years when he was the State prisoner of his own son Aurangzeb, used to gaze along the river at his wife's beauti- ful tomb, the Taj Mahal ; and above all, that purest and most perfect of Moslem shrines, the Moti-Musjib, or Pearl Mosque, with its cloistered court and three white airy domes, — who that has seen all this can forget the day and the hour when such visions of white splendor became a part of his hfe? But what I have written of tomb and mosque has been put down mostly because of the hesitation which I feel in approaching the Incomparable, the Immortal — I will not call it temple or sepulchre — whose stately dome of pearl haunts the life of all those who have gazed upon it in moonlight or sunlight or starlight, and permitted its tender and pathetic magic to penetrate and captivate their souls. I did not feel the impatience which many travellers have recorded to see, in close proximity, the palace-crown of all the marble structures now borne on the bosom of the earth. My feeling was rather one of awe, mingled with a deep loving joy that such a marriage with the spirit of love and beauty was now awaiting me. I felt like lingering in the halls of anticipation, like asking the driver not to hasten over the moonlit road which led us to the great gateway of the garden-court in whose centre the Taj stands. I was glad to pause and to look with wondering admiration at this magnificent portal of red sandstone, surmounted by 25 386 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. marble cupolas and decorated with sacred sentences from the Koran. But when at last the gate was entered and the eyes looked up the long cypress-shaded avenue to the white and stately mausoleum, bordered with gardens and streams and fountains, lifting its bubble of a dome into the moonlit heavens, then and there the soul's marriage with the spirit of the beautiful was consummated in a deep of holy ecstasy. Slowly, almost reluctantly, we walked the long shaded path leading toward the white marvel, whose four sentinel towers appeared to guard it joyously like slender white-robed maidens standing about a princess- bride. We sat down by the central fountain to look at the great platform of marble, and the stately portal which rose above it, and the half-shadowed recesses on either side, and the two tiny cupolas and slender minarets above, till the vision ended in the swelling and soaring white dream of a dome which seems almost to lift the whole marvellous fabric into the skies. I was prepared by the pictures and by the words of travellers, historians, and poets, for some- thing supremely beautiful which might be likened to a cut and polished jewel ; but I was not prepared to find this jewel of heroic proportions, its loveHness expanded into majesty, its grace wedded to magnificence. What we saw was a crown, but it was the crown of Asia and of the world ; it was the greatest and fairest expression of royal love, wielding unlimited wealth and power, ever inscribed on the checkered page of history. The waters glassed and reflected the stately and pearly shrine ; the pointed cypress-trees and the gloomier and darker foliage beyond were not only the artistic setting of the mighty jewel, but by contrast deepened its splendor, while their shadows seemed sympathetic with that royal grief with which our hearts were instinctively in accord. Then the softness and stillness and brightness of the moonlit night made an atmosphere bathing everything and filling our own souls with thoughts and dreams, with memories and hopes, beautifying and sanctifying all life. AGRA AND THE TAJ MAHAL. 387 Finally, we mounted the marble platform, where an army might stand. Oh, what artists these Moslem architects and their Christian assistant proved themselves to be ! How they prepare the eyes and the heart for the sacred beauty and the more sacred love which they have revealed or memorialized ! Where we now stand we can see that there are two wings to the marble mausoleum, one of which is a mosque, far enough removed to appear only sacred guardians of the holier shrine. As we walk about the platform, we repeat with so many before us, " The work of Titans," and finally, drawing closer to the Palace Crown, we exclaim, " The work of jewellers." No other building in the world has such an ornamentation of precious stones, their colored beauties bringing out the wisdom of sacred Persian texts around the majestic portals, and elsewhere in the spandrels and angles and screens and tombs within, spreading out into an infinite wealth of scrolls and wreaths and arabesques of jasmine, columbine, poppy, and carna- tion, filling our eyes and souls with the joy and wonder of seeing all most beautiful things here lavished in fadeless embroidery. The delicate bas-relief ornamentation of white marble found everywhere satisfies and delights the lover of beautiful forms. But when, standing beneath the central dome by the tombs of the Emperor and the Em- peror's wife, with the soft light coming in only through the exquisite screens of marble, one gazes in bewildered joy at this wealth of jewelled ornamentation, with its richness of abiding colors ; he feels that art and love and faith have here reached the climax of beautiful expression. It was the light of torches which revealed to us the interior on our first visit, when the full moon was shining on the dome above ; but the next morning the jewelled splendors of the Taj seemed loveher still in the sunlight. Side by side in the vault below, on the level of the ground, are the real but plainer tombs of Shah Jehan and Mumtaz-i-Mahal. But immediately above them, in the apartment which rises into the matchless dome, are the jewelled sepulchres surrounded 388 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE, by the exquisite trellis-work, where one lingers and lingers, loath to depart. And yet, as he walks once more on the spacious platform in moonlight or sunlight, looking up at dome or slender sentinel towers or down upon the blue sliding waters of the Jumna, he feels himself to be in a world of beauty not less exquisitely beautiful than that within. He who has seen the wonders of the world may contrast the Taj Mahal, especially after he has gone away from it, with the florid gorgeousness of St. Peter's ; he may feel a certain deeper intellectual sympathy with the world of thought and emotion brought before him by King's Chapel in Cambridge and the ivy-mantled towers of Oxford ; he may feel his soul drawn nearer to God in mighty aspiration and in memory of the world's Christian past, in the columned aisles of the Cologne Cathedral ; and standing amid the statues and sculptured flower-garden on the roof of " many-spired Milan," beholding the sunlight breaking through the clouds on the snowy peaks of St. Gothard, he may have a keener sense of the grandeur of man and the greatness of God ; but nowhere else so fully as in the Taj Mahal have I had such a sober certainty of the wak- ing bliss of beauty and of human love embodied in archi- tecture. Standing beneath the dome, Moslem lips breathed forth the name of Allah, and melodious echoes, softening and dying away, brought back to our ears the sacred syl- lables. The Palace Crown of Asia is not out of harmony with the spirit which ascribes all glory to Heaven. " Earth with her ten thousand voices praises God." CHAPTER XXXIII. JEYPORE TO MADRAS. WE found Jeypore, which we reached after a ten hours' ride from Agra, the most interesting, in certain re- spects at least, of all Indian cities. The Reverend Mr. Mac- alister, of the United Presbyterian Mission of Scotland, was our courteous and delightful host, and he gave me a day of sight-seeing unembarrassed by lectures. It was early in the morning when we had our first drive through the high- walled and rosy city, a town of a hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, surrounded by rugged and fort-crowned hills, and the capital of a prosperous Native State with a popula- tion of two and a half millions. The Maharajah who gov- erns this community intrusts nearly all the affairs of state to his prime minister, a very enlightened man who called on us in the afternoon. I found him a person of com- manding mind and liberal spirit. He was graduated from Duff College, Calcutta, and although himself a nominal Hindu, he gladly owns his large obligations to the Christian missionaries. Fully one-half of the hour's conversation which we had together was devoted to Shakespeare, of whom this Indian statesman has been a profound student. Jeypore was to us the greatest sensation since Benares. It is a city of pink houses and broad streets where ele- phants, monkeys, cows, and tens of thousands of pigeons are equally at home. Such costumes, with more than the colors of the rainbow, apparently devised by some Hindu Turner in an hour of madness, I have never seen elsewhere. Here is a city into which European life seems scarcely to have intruded, and which is apparently happier and 390 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. more prosperous than most Indian cities. In reality, how- ever, Western civihzation has done a large work beneath these Oriental ways and forms, for Jeypore is lighted by gas, and rejoieeb in an immense Public Garden, laid out by European skill ; in a great college, which is affiliated with the University of Calcutta ; in a hospital ; a school of art ; and in an almost magnificent museum, Albert Hall, designed and built by Colonel Jacobs, the presiding genius and good angel of Jeypore. But driving by the fantastic Hall of the Winds, or the tall tower which overlooks the city, or wan- dering through the Maharajah's palace and pleasure-ground within which his Highness employs and feeds ten thou- sand attendants ; inspecting and buying the beautiful enamel-work done in the bazaars ; taking a peep at the splendid tigers, or watching the horrible alligators snatching great pieces of meat in the immense royal tanks ; behold- ing the monkeys scampering along the houses, or even gazing at the curious and colossal instruments in Jey Sing's Astronomical Observatory ; and above all, looking at the motley and many-colored procession of people, moving along the pink streets, which in color and material appear like the scenery of some gorgeous and fantastic stage, — one loses sight of everything Occidental, and says in his heart, " This is the East, the quintessence of all brilliant and bewildering Orientalism." The old capital and the old palace are at Amber, five miles from Jeypore, picturesquely situated at the entrance of a steep mountain gorge, in the vicinity of a lovely lake. Every traveller is eager to visit this now deserted city, in- habited only by a few mendicants and many monkeys. We had expected to ride an elephant up the steep which leads to the old palace : but a plague had broken out in the Maharajah's stables, and seventeen of his elephants had died, while the rest had been sent into the country. Thus, instead of a gigantic quadruped, a " transport " was sent to carry us to the empty but still very impressive palace, where we arrived too late to see, in a small temple, the daily kill- JEYPORE TO MADRAS. 391 ing of the goat as a sacrifice to Kali. The Rajput artists, for we are now in Rajputana, knew how to build fine courts, audience-cliambers, stairways, and to decorate pal- aces with glittering magnificence. Within the great de- serted rooms we saw the mica decorations, inlaid in plaster, making thousands of tiny mirrors, so that when I waved my arms I surpassed the thousand-handed deities of the East. Sir Edwin Arnold has employed all the wealth of his colored and brilliant words to describe Jeypore and Amber ; and although his praise may be extravagant, his vivid word- pictures make no such enduring impression on the mind of the reader as even a day's visit makes on the memory of the traveller. We left Jeypore early in the evening, and arrived at Ajmere at the sleepy hour of two in the morning. Dr. Husband was on the veranda of his home to meet us, how- ever, and we soon had a second sleep, from which we rose to a quiet and delightful Sunday in an ancient and beauti- ful city. About one-third of its population is Mussulman and two-thirds are Hindu. The Moslem architecture here is said to be unsurpassed in delicacy and beauty. But ray day was given to rest, except that I lectured in the after- noon to one of the best audiences of non-Christians that I have thus far met. Later, too, I preached in the Presby- terian Church. All this, however, was consistent with the ideas of a restful day which I have come to cherish in India. It is a long ride from Ajmere to Indore, — that is, long in time. The three hundred miles were accomplished in twenty hours ! The trains in Rajputana are deliberate. We reached Indore at about six in the morning, and found there, waiting to welcome us, the Reverend Mr. Wilkie and the Reverend Mr. Ledinghara of the Canadian Presbyterian mission, two native Christians, several Brahmos, and a car- riage with men in red and green livery, sent by his Highness the Maharajah of Indore. This carriage was at our disposal during the day, and I felt that it gave me an importance not 392 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. altogether clerical. After " chota hazri " we drove with our missionary friends through the interesting capital of this Native State, saw the Maharajah's gardens, visited a section of the town where eifective mission work is carried on in a '' mahalla," or court given up to poor people who work in leather, went out into tlie country, which is largely planted with poppy, and gained a deal of information from Mr. Wilkie, who is one of the most energetic missionaries I ever have seen. Indore is a centre of the opium trade and a quantity which sells here for twenty-eight rupees sells in Bombay for six hundred rupees. The government puts a fairly heavy tax on it ! It is generally beUeved that the use of opium as well as the use of intoxicating drinks is growing in India. The government has these things in its own hands, and is pursuing, as many believe, a wrong system. It sells the privilege of making and retailing intoxicants. A privilege which once cost only fifteen thousand rupees in Indore finds a buyer now, according to Mr. Wilkie, at more than one hundred thousand rupees. Is not this of itself ample evidence that the use of alcoholic hquors is gaining ground ? India, beyond most nations, has known the destructiveness of war, the destructiveness of plague, and the destructive- ness of famine. If, according to Mr. Gladstone, intemper- ance has wrought for mankind more woe than war, pestilence, and famine combined, what damage will drunkenness not work upon the physically weak races of India if the Hindus ever become a drunken people ! Some of these considera- tions Mr. Caine has been urging upon the government of India in his lectures during the last winter. We visited the girls' boarding-school and the hospital belonging to the Canadian Presbyterian Mission, after driv- ing through a lovely park, where I saw for the first time the bo-tree, the Ficus Indicus, under which Buddha received his enlightenment at Gaya. The Canadian flag waved above the college, where in the afternoon I delivered my lecture in one of the most beautiful halls I have seen in India. Hi JEYPORE TO MADRAS. 393 Mr. Wilkie was greatly pleased to bring together in the audience most of the leading non-Christians of the city. Earlier in the afternoon we had a reception, given by the Brahmos, at their mandir, or place of worship. I was sur- prised to see some of the Brahmo ladies wearing nose-rings, which are discarded by Christians in North India, and, so far as I have seen elsewhere, by Brahmos also. Just before the lecture we made a call by invitation upon the Mahara- jah, the absolute ruler of more than a million people, with a military establishment of about nine thousand troops and with revenues amounting to about four million dollars. He is a large man physically, much too large for his own com- fort, and he received us barefooted, — a mark of respect. He was dressed in a long white silk robe, with a white cap. He sat in a chair, and proceeded to ask me questions regarding America and especially Chicago. He had partic- ularly stipulated that I should not speak to him of religion. He was interested in inquiring about the railroad riots of 1895, which he thought a symptom of great weakness in our civilization. He was astonished to learn of the wages received by workmen of different classes in America. He inquired about Mr. McKinley's policy, and evidently was surprised when I told him that the average wealth in America was greater than that in England, while that in England v/as thirty times that in India. He spoke of Canada, and when I expressed a wish for continental union in America, he said : " I hope that the country will then all of it come under the rule of good Queen Victoria." A servant brought us betel leaf filled with spices and covered with silver paper. This was the signal for our departure. I have reserved for the last the unique and most inter- esting experience of the day. At tifhn-time the Maharajah sent to our temporary home a colossal elephant, so that we might enjoy a ride. He was almost as tall as Jumbo and thicker set. He had a back on which a Hindu temple easily could have been carried. After photographing him, 394 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. we mounted him, four of us. His elephantine majesty, obedient to the stroke of the driver's iron rod, knelt down, and we climbed by a ladder to seats in the howdah. When he rose to his feet, his riders thought for a moment that my lecture tour in India was about to end ! The tower seemed on the point of tipping over. Things came to rights, how- ever, and our lofty perch was pronounced a delightful seat, and, as the elephant-puncher put in his work behind, and the great beast trotted down the road, we regarded our exaltation and locomotion with princely self-complacency. For daily comfort and convenience, however, give me, in preference to an Indore elephant, an out-door donkey. The Reverend Robert A. Hume, D.D., of Ahmednagar, has made all the arrangements for my India pilgrimage, answering correspondents, accepting or declining invita- tions, and furnishing an exact itinerary down to the minute of our arrival and departure in the case of every city. He is now called " Major Pond." On leaving Indore we looked forward with great pleasure to meeting the kindly Major. He had promised us two days of rest in his home. We arrived at two o'clock in the morning, and, finding the American mail awaiting us, closed our eyes in sleep about four. For three successive mornings the Major's sweet voice awakened us at half-past six. I faithfully submitted myself to the detailed programme which he had arranged, and in the two and a half days of our sojourn in his delightful home, under his restful superintendence, I made six addresses, enjoyed three receptions, visited four schools, went to a native concert, made several calls, attended service in a village church six miles away, there baptizing two native converts, visited the famine-relief works seven miles from Ahmednagar, answered some correspondents, and received many friendly visitors. As the heat had destroyed my appetite, I went through these days of rest on the strength of Indian tea. Dr. Hume has one of the most successful missions we have seen in India. He took especial pains to have me see all ^■1 JEYPORE TO MADRAS. 395 sides of his work, and to call on several Christian families and even at the home of a Hindu Brahman gentleman. This man, a lawyer, accompanied us through the different rooms of his house. We saw his shrine, the apartments of the women, which we did not enter, his store of grain for the year, the children's play-room, and his library, where I discovered on the walls three framed pictures, all exactly alike, of Charles Bradlaugh ! In this room were several of his clients ; and before we separated, at Dr. Hume's sugges- tion and with the Brahman's kind permission, I led the com- pany in prayer, all standing. One afternoon while I was visiting the Normal School and the Industrial School, Mrs. Barrows addressed the Christian women of the town, a church full of them. She complained that although she spoke in loud, clear tones, the women paid her languid attention, compared with what was given to Miss Emily Bissell, her interpreter ! One morning we drove out with several mis- sionaries, one of them on a bicycle, seven miles into the country, to Hingangaw. The Christians of the village, know- hig of our approach, came out to meet us with strange music of horns and native drums, escorting us to the schoolhouse, which is also the village church. And here I had one of the chief privileges of my life. I was permitted to baptize two young men, recent converts to the gospel. Never before have I been so deeply moved at such a service. It seemed to me that he who stooped to the lowliness of Beth- lehem and Nazareth was almost sensibly present in this little meeting-house, which the dark hands of humble people had decorated with fruits and wild flowers, out of regard to one of Christ's ministers who had come to them from the other side of the world. On leaving Ahmednagar, with its Sabbath quiet and repose, we began our journey to Poona. The awful plague not only closed Bombay to my lectures, but closed the schools and colleges and half the houses of that fated city. At Poona we were the guests of the Reverend Mr. and Mrs. Small, of the Free Church of Scotland Mission, Principal 396 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. Mackichan of Wilson College, Bombay, was also a guest in the same beautiful home, and 1 shall never forget the stirring address which he made at the close of my last lecture. The full course of my lectures was given here instead of in ' Bombay, and, as the intellectual capital of Western India and as a great centre of Brahmanic influence and of the most intense Hindu spirit, Poona was deemed hardly second even to Bombay in importance. It would require a whole chapter to give even a meagre account of our expe- riences and various doings in Poona, to speak of the recep- tions accorded by Hindus, Brahraos, missionaries, and the native Christian community ; to tell of the Christian workers whom we came to know, among whom was Mr. Wilder of the Students' Volunteer Movement; and to describe a few of the interesting natives who came to talk over their religious convictions. Four of my lectures were given in the theatre right in the midst of the plague- smitten portion of the city, for Poona, too, is suffering from the pestilence that walketh in darkness and smiteth also at noonday. In driving to the theatre in the early evening we passed by the fires, burning disinfectants, and saw houses unroofed where death had been. Only a hand- ful of missionaries ventured to leave the cantonment or pleasant European quarter outside of the town, but an average of five hundred English-speaking Hindus were present at each address. Only those who had received a ticket were admitted, and an earnest effort was made to keep out the " Young Poona " element, the proud Brahman youth who have gained notoriety for their bitter opposition to everything Christian and Western, and who made riotous demonstrations even at the meetings of the Indian National Congress. At the first lecture there was one hiss directed against some distasteful Christian sentiment ; at the second lecture there were three or four brief outbursts of disap- proval, of which I was apparently unconscious, proceeding in the rapid delivery of my lecture with a voice that would probably have been audible in a cannonade ! The hostile JEYPORE TO MADRAS. 397 noises proceeded, however, only from a few. The body of the house was filled with as grave and attentive a company as I ever addressed. At the third lecture Mr. W. S. Caine, M. P., presided, and was to hold a Temperance and National Congress meeting in the theatre after the close of my lecture on Christian Theism. The room was packed with dark-faced, white-turbaned hearers, among whom "Young Poona" was not wanting. There was a crowd in the street yelling to get in and anxious to have my audience get out. Mr. Caine opened the meeting by recalling what splendid services America had rendered to India, through schools, colleges, hospitals, and churches. For half an hour my lecture proceeded without disturbance. During the second half-hour there were several brief outbursts of dissent, which kept the speaker on his nerve, but which were evidently distasteful to the good sense and good feel- ing of the weightier part of the audience. In the three following lectures there was no disturbance whatever. The local papers, even those most bitter against Christianity, read lectures to " Young Poona " from editorial pulpits ; but to me this was one of the amusing and much prized experiences, which I should have been sorry to have missed. With this exception, and with a single moment's hostile demonstration at my closing lecture in Bangalore, Indian audiences have been unvaryingly courteous and attentive. The truth is that I could have preached Christianity in India in the ordinary way and have excited no hostile feel- ing whatever. But it has been my mission to speak of Christianity from the standpoint of Comparative Religion. This is one of the fairest ways of setting forth the claims of the gospel. But if it is done thoroughly, no matter with what kindness and courtesy of speech, the method is the most disturbing to Hindu pride which one can use. I have moreover spoken to many thousands who have not been accustomed to hear an earnest, direct presentation of the claims of Christianity. Under these circumstances the patient and attentive kindness of my 398 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. Hindu audiences has been remarkable and admirable. Before leaving this subject I must record an experience which came to the Reverend Joseph Cook at the close of his lecture in Poona. One of the Cowley Fathers (English High-Churchmen) presided. At the close of his address Mr. Cook asked if there would be any objection to all uniting in the Lord's Prayer. The chairman arose and made decided objection, ending his ill-chosen remarks by saying that we had the command of Christ Himself, forbid- ding us to cast pearls before swine ! This was like the explosion of a bomb. Men sprang to their feet shouting and gesticulating, and the meeting closed chaotically. It was on February ninth that we reached Bangalore, a beautiful city with a population of one hundred and eighty thousand, situated on a healthful plateau more than three thousand feet above the sea. The cantonment where the English reside is one of the largest in India. Here is the palace of the famous Tipu Sahib. The native quarter is one of the cleanest that I have seen. Bangalore has fine Roman Catholic institutions, a Wesleyan college, good public build- ings, an immense parade-ground, one of the finest halls in which I have spoken, a Hindu temple where I heard some really stirring music, and a Cosmopolitan Hindu club, where I met fifty as agreeable and intelligent Hindu gentlemen as I found in India. In Bangalore we first saw the serpent stones, — rows of slabs on which snakes are carved. Around these women were perambulating and making their offerings. My three lectures in Bangalore were given in the three different halls, so as to accommodate the different parts of the city, for these Hindu cities re- semble our national capital in their magnificent distances. I had a reception one morning at the reading-room and library of a native gentleman, who, with his long beard and bare feet and the white ash-marks of his god on his fore- head, might almost be taken for a fakir, but who is one of the most intelligent and liberal-minded of men. In his library I saw Mr. Gladstone's edition of the Works of JEYPORE TO MADRAS. 399 Bishop Butler, and, as showing what contrasts exist in this land, I may say that attached to the library is a Hindu temple which our Christian feet were not permitted to enter. Connected with the temple and hbrary was a Hindu orphan- age. At Bangalore we were the guests of the Reverend Mr. and Mrs. Vanes of the English Wesleyan Mission, and we met the missionaries of all churches in a delightful recep- tion at the home of the Reverend T. E. Slater, of the Lon- don Mission Society, one of the most scholarly missionaries in Southern India. From the cool and beautiful plateau we descended in a hot and restless journey to Vellore, a lovely city of the plain, where we were the guests of the American missionaries, the Reverend Mr. and Mrs. W. I. Chamberlain of the Reformed Church. In this, the Arcot Mission, Dr. Henry Martyn Scudder, one of a great family of Indian missionaries, toiled for many years. It was our privilege, when Dr. Scudder left Plymouth Church, Chicago, for Japan, to give him a farewell dinner, at Avhich his brother laiinisters bestowed upon him a gold-headed cane. How I wish now that I had known the Hindu forms of affectionate greeting and farewell ! In that case we should have read to him a gold-printed address, placed garlands around his neck, sprinkled him with rose- water, touched his hands with fragrant oil, filled his pockets with limes, and burnt incense sticks in his honor ! This affectionate ceremonial would have reminded him pleasantly of many scenes in far-off India, where his great work still lives after him. In the Arcot Mission the Scudders and Chamberlains rule, and we had the good fortune to meet nine of them among them Dr. Jacob Chamberlain, whose delightful book of Indian sketches has just been issued. Vellore is certainly one of the brightest spots in our memories of India, A reception committee composed of Hindus, Mohammedans, Theosophists, and Christians was organized to take charge of us, to arrange for the lecture, to show us the fort and temple and city schools, and to give the lecturer a morning reception on the day of his depart- 400 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. ure. ]My address was given in the American mission high- school building. The hall was crowded with what Mr, Chamberlain reports to have been " the finest and most intelligent audience that could probably have been gathered in the district." The chairman was the Moslem mayor of the city, Mr. Habibollah Sahib, and the address of welcome was read by Mr. N. R. Narasimmiah, B.A., B.L., the dis- trict judge. I had a new impression of the respectful courtesy and admirable patience of this Indian people. It is my habit here to put into my lectures the full force of my deepest and most fervent convictions. I speak with the absolute assurance which I feel, and I am well aware that my addresses put a tremendous strain on the courtesies of my non-Christian hearers, particularly at this time when Hindu- ism is undergoing one of those revivals through which the doomed and dying system spasmodically passes. I am continually telling my hearers that Christianity alone has in it the elements that fit it to become a universal religion, and that the Gospel of Christ alone is adequate to the regenera- tion of India. Hindu national pride often passionately pro- tests, but the Brahman judge who in Vellore conducted us through the fort and elaborately sculptured temple freely acknowledged to me the vast changes that had come from Christian influence, and confessed that Hinduism must purify itself by going back to its sources if it hoped to sur- vive. The caste system he found a burden, and he believed that it was doomed. My connection with an American university led the com- mittee in Vellore to arrange for a visit to the representative educational institutions of the city. Accordingly I was first received at the missionary high-school, where an address was presented on behalf of the teachers and eight hundred pupils, after which I was conducted over the school by the manager and head-master. I next visited the Hindu mid- dle school, where I was met by the district munsiff, or circuit judge, the manager and head-master, and was shown the various classes. The founder of this school was the mahunt JEYPORE TO MADRAS. 40I who had charge of one of the greatest temples of Southern India. The enormous revenues of this temple he misappro- priated, and a few years ago he was tried, condemned, and imprisoned. It was proved against him that the kegs of gold coin which he exhibited as the treasure of the temple were gold only on the surface. Copper coins had been sub- stituted for the greater part of the temple's wealth. Vellore surpassed all other places in floral welcomes. Did not Mem Sahib photograph me decked in thirteen garlands and holding three bouquets in my hands? But Vellore is hot, and my pleasantest experiences there were in a great swimming-tank built by one of the benevolent Scudders. At half-past eight in the morning the Hindu Club gave me a reception with the usual printed address of welcome. People here are very fond of titles, and they think it dis- courteous to omit any which justly belong to a guest. Be- tween two banana-trees was suspended a large red banner whereon were these words in white, — WELCOME TO DR. BARROWS, M.A. The Mem Sahib insisted that the last two letters made the welcome include her ! February thirteenth we drove to the junction, five miles away, to take the train for Madras. It was a beautiful drive through a rice country, where the green fields and the many sheets of water reminded us of the valley of the Nile, and where I should not have been surprised to see the Pyramids taking the place of the rocky hills which came frequently into sight. Southern India escaped the famine this year. Its turn came in 1877, when millions were swept away. The Reverend Mr. Vanes of Bangalore told us that in walking from his house to the high-school he sometimes counted a dozen dead bodies by the roadside. But this year Southern India is a delight to the eye, and our visit to the south land has been in many respects the most interest- ing part of our long journey. The Moslem mayor of Vel- lore was at the station to bid us good-by ; and our host, 26 402 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. Mr. Chamberlain, accompanied us to Madras, where a large committee of reception met us at the station. Among them were Colonel Olcott, president of the Theosophical Society, one of the editors of "The Hindu," Dr. Murdoch of the Christian Literature Society, the Reverend Maurice Phillips, who was present at the Religious Congresses in Chicago, and several other of the Christian missionaries. CHAPTER XXXIV. MADRAS THE MALABAR COAST AND MADURA. 1\ /r ADRAS, a city of five hundred thousand inhabitants, ■*■ capital of the Southern Presidency, rises along an exposed coast-line and is not a favorite halting-place for tourists. It has no magnificent temples to attract the visitor, and its heat is of the muggiest. But to me it has proved one of the most interesting cities in India, the cli- max of all my long trip. From the windows of the Chris- tian College, where we are housed, or at least from its tower, we may look out upon the artificial harbor, protect- ing ships from the violence of cyclonic tempests ; we may look over Blacktown to the north, and turning southward may see Fort St. George, the beginning of England's em- pire in India. Just across the way from the college are the magnificent Law Court buildings, the tallest tower of which is used for a lighthouse. Madras is a series of great villages, divided by parks, rivers, and railroads. More than two miles from us to the southward is that part of the city called Triplicane, where I met some Hindu disputants this morning ; and three miles farther is aristocratic Adyar, sacred to theosophy. Far away on the southern horizon is Little Mount, where a church covers the supposed burial-place of St. Thomas, the apostle to India. From the college tower we can see also the splendid library and museum, one of the finest modern buildings in the Indian Empire, and also the tall steeple of old St. Andrew's Church. The pleasantest drive in Madras is the Marina, along the surf-beaten shore, where one may see the peculiar boats of the almost naked Madrasis, some of them nothing but a raft of light logs bound 404 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. together and propelled by a stout paddle. It was one of these unclothed sailors, wearing only a yellow hat, that con- vulsed l\Iacaulay with laughter when he arrived in Madras, when he first touched India, I believe in 1832. There is something very strange in the conjunctions which one continually meets with in the East. In yonder harbor are the steel cruisers, the perfection of the modern art of navigation ; and here are the log boats to which I have re- ferred, or the catamarans, with their projecting outriggers, or the masulas, used in landing passengers, which are nothing but open boats of thin boards sewed with cocoanut fibre to a strong framework. But from our windows the other morn- ing we saw something more remarkable still. It was a pro- cession of half-naked idolaters carrying an ugly god down to bathe. The idol was in a palanquin, sitting in front of a mirror, that he might not lose sight of his beauty ; and about him were, perhaps, one hundred of his friends and worship- pers, some of them making barbaric music. This procession crossed an electric-car track, swept by the Law Courts, and disturbed the studies of the eighteen hundred boys and young men who were in the Christian College. Hindu superstitions die hard, but they are dying. The crowds at the procession and bathing festivals are far smaller than they were a half-century ago. English education is undermining the old beliefs. There is something hollow, fantastic, and transient in the popular outburst which last week welcomed to Madras a Hindu missionary just returned from Great Britain and America. But perhaps the most interesting glimpses which I can afford my readers will come from a brief journal of our hot days in Madras. On Sunday, February fourteenth, we en- deavored to rest, until at five o'clock in the afternoon we went to a meeting of the Students' Volunteer Conference, where we heard an impressive address from Dr. Francis E. Clark, whose path here again crossed ours. At the next hour I preached in the college church to a company of young men, who did not seem aware of the, to me, almost intolerable heat. Two MADRAS. 405 immense punkas waved over the audience, and a smaller punka was kept vibrating above the preacher's perspir- ing pate. But the temperature has been such that I shall always cherish an intense distaste for the expres- sion " a warm welcome." They say of the climate here that for two months it is hot and the rest of the year it is hotter. We are fortunate in living with the Reverend Mr. and Mrs. George Pittendrigh at the Christian College. I am occupying the spacious study of Dr. Miller, the president of the college, one of the great men of Scotland and India. He has been seriously sick in the house of one of the col- lege teachers, and, as an indication of the love and venera- tion in which he is held by all classes of the community, I am told that a lamp is kept burning for him in one of the Hindu temples. My reception occurred to-night in Victoria Hall. The platform was occupied by the committee who represent the various sections of the Hindu and Christian community. The usual address of welcome was read by the Reverend Mr. Kellett of the Wesleyan Mission, and then I was let loose on the audience for perhaps thirty-five minutes. After this I was escorted through the hall and had the op- portunity of meeting and talking with many men of many minds. Tuesday, February sixteenth. — A great, and for this sea- son of the year unprecedented, rain-storm flooded Madras last night. We breakfasted in the spacious bungalow of the Reverend Mr. and Mrs. Maurice Phillips, of the London Missionary Society. Then came some shopping in the most beautiful "store" that I have seen in India, at which the service is so slow that one melts away half his existence be- fore the parcels are ready. My first lecture occurred to- night in Victoria Hall. A respected Hindu judge presided, and at the close departed from the rules of the lectureship, which forbid discussion. In this case, however-. I was glad of the transgression. It gave the Hindu portion of the thronged and excited audience the opportunity of showing 406 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. their feelings, and it gave the Christian auditors an oppor- tunity of watching the strange movements of a perplexed Hindu mind. The speech was touching, almost pathetic. He said that he knew nothing of Christianity, a confession for which he has been strongly criticised, and that he trusted the Almighty knew what was the best religion for each man's soul and would give him that. I have heard all sorts of odd speeches at the beginning and the end of my lectures. I could make an amusing let- ter out of them, telling of how one Oriental speaker said, " For me to introduce the lecturer of the evening is like a mosquito presenting an elephant." Another Hindu followed the lecture with remarks like these to his fellow- Hindus : " You see that Dr. Barrows believes with his whole heart in his religion. He has presented his ideas in regard to the supremacy and world-wide prevalence of Christianity with all the vigor of his profound convictions. Now, what shall we Hindus learn from this? We should learn that it is our duty to be just as earnest, sincere, and devoted to our own religion as he is to his ! " February seventeenth. — I am compelled to have my " chota hazri " at six o'clock in the morning, for Dr. Mur- doch, who is putting my lectures through the press so that a copy of each may be offered to the hearer immediately after its delivery, is hurrying us both for "copy" and for " proof." I worked hard till nine o'clock, when the Brahmos came with a fine address and the most beautiful garland that I have seen in India. Work, visitors, and writing occupy the time until we drive to Victoria Hall for the lecture. It puts nerve even into a tired man to face such an audience, and to feel that he is not only hammering away at one of the most obstinate of erroneous systems, but also is striving to make apparent the glory of that which is perfect and final. When I get back to my rooms, a cold bath and dressing for dinner are followed by the inevitable and always delightful dinner-party, from which we escape by eleven o'clock. MADRAS. 407 February eighteenth. — This has been a repetition of yes- terday in the sort of work which has been done, except that in place of the usual lecture there occurred in Memorial Hall a reception by the native Christian community, with whom are many missionaries from the city and vicinity. Addresses of welcome were given by Mr. Theophilus, the President of the community, and also by the vice-president, a graduate of Cambridge University and Professor of Phi- losophy in the Presidency College. Then I spoke for an hour in a hall which was full of blazing lamps which made the heat like unto a furnace. It was refreshing that night to meet at dinner Mr. and Mrs. Cooling ; but I slipped away from the company early, and entered into happy sympathy with the vast unclothed population of India. No one who has not been in India — I may add in Madras — quite appreciates either the delights of a cold bath or the genius of Sydney Smith's remark about taking off one's skin and sitting in his bones. My Madras campaign ended nine days ago, with an undiminished temperature. The interested newspapers gave as many columns a day to the discussion of Christi- anity as to most other topics put together. One morn- ing I had a reception by the Triplicane Hindu Club, followed by a delightful breakfast with Colonel Olcott. One afternoon I was garlanded by boys in the College. One evening a reception was given by the Indian Social Reform- ers. On Sunday, February twenty-first, I was permitted to call on President Miller of the Christian College, and the chief educator in South India, whose serious sickness has been the anxiety of all classes of the community. Later in the day I preached in St. Andrew's Church. On Monday evening, February twenty-second, we dined with Mr. McConnaughy, the Y. M. C. A. secretary, a fine-spirited American, rejoicing in Mr. Wanamaker's recent gift of twenty thousand dollars to the new Madras Association building. At this dinner-party, where several Scudders were among the guests, did we not sing, beneath the 408 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. ' punka's cooling breath, "America" and "The Battle Cry of Freedom " ? The next was our final day in Madras. The heat and the callers continued ; the first intoler- able, the second innumerable. Among the kindly visitors were two young Madras poets, who did me the honor of addressing to me an acrostic sonnet, which is such a fine specimen of Anglo-Indian poetry that although this gem of the muses came into my hands several years ago, its freshness of thought and originality of expression and measureless kindness of sentiment will be appreciated to- day. It is printed on heavy straw-colored paper in gilt letters with an illuminated border. " Religion is life's great poesy, Emits she a living soul into the earth ; Virtue, her tenderest daughter, with mirth Joined by duty, giv'n ; this courtesy Heav'n has freely granted, still heresy Blinded many. To bring close by a girth All creeds in the universe, and give birth Rightly to the doctrines and prophecy Religions claim, is a grand design. Oh, Holy Doctor ! though such a congress Was held by Asok and Akbar, no sign Seems now to remain, but yours much progress Doubtless make, so, may Lord His grace consign Down to you, to lead aright those transgress." The missionary's heated toil has its compensations ! Much of the ancient poetry of India is not so good as this ; and if any of my readers think this English sonnet imperfect in expression, let them strive to write equally good verses in Tamil. After my closing lecture Colonel Olcott, the founder and President of the Theosophical Society, moved, by appoint- ment of the reception committee, the vote of thanks. His words were hearty and generous ; but in the middle of his address he turned aside to make a strong attack on the sins of Christendom, and particularly of the English gov- ernment in India. He asserted that Christianity could ^w MALABAR COAST AND MADURA. 409 make little progress while the British army immoralities, the collection of revenue from the demoralizing liquor and opium traffics, and the taxation of starving peasants to build Christian cathedrals continued. In my closing re- marks I endeavored to take the sting out of these assertions by saying that these and other sins of Christendom were quite as familiar to us as to non- Christians. We repro- bated them, denounced them as un-Christian, and fought them wherever they appeared ; and I reminded my hearers that the most potent voice heard in India during the last winter, calling upon the British government to amend its ways, was the voice of a Christian Englishman, Mr. W. S. Caine. The next morning, at four o'clock, we were among the hills in Salem, rejoicing in a day of comparative cool- ness and quiet. Some of these smaller cities of India are extremely beautiful in their broad shaded avenues, mag- nificent trees, and comfortable English homes. After one lecture and two receptions in Salem, we left our kind hosts, the Reverend Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Dignum, of the London Mission Society, and drove in the early morning three miles along the banyan-shaded and monkey-haunted road to the station, from which we departed for Coimbatore. It was a restful railway journey through a lovely country. Rice- fields, cocoanut palms, little lakes, blue hills, now and then a hideous group of monstrous village gods, — such were the views given us in our uneventful journey. In the even- ing we were in Coimbatore, a sweet and almost heavenly place in its natural scenery. The hills were a benediction to people tired of the plains. Our hosts, the Reverend Mr. and Mrs. Brough, were Australians, but connected with one of the English missionary societies. The lecture was given in the Hindu College hall, packed as only Hindus are able and willing to pack a public meeting. The Black Hole of Calcutta may not have been intended for a place of torture. But I will not linger over Coimbatore, where we should 410 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. have been glad to remain a week, but will hurry on to an account of our visit to the Malabar coast, the shore where the pepper-tree grows and where Christians have lived, flourished, and suffered since the fourth, and possibly since the second, century. Our friend Prince Nouri told us in Cairo that he probably would be elected this winter the Patriarch of the Chaldean or Syrian church of India. His prophecy was realized, and on the seventh of February this youngest of all patriarchs — he is only thirty-three years of age — was crowned on his birthday in the Chaldean Cathe- dral at Trichur. He promised us a great welcome from the Chaldean people if we would only turn aside to the west coast. His promises were amply fulfilled. There is no railway line as yet to Trichur. From Coimbatore we took the train for Shoranur, about twenty miles from our destination. The youthful Prince and Patriarch and Father George, his secretary, welcomed us at the station. A bullock-cart received our luggage and Marutee, our "boy." We were put into a nice jutka, a shaded and cushioned cart, drawn by a smart pony and driven by a little Mala- bari, naked to the waist. A similar vehicle received the Patriarch and Father George. The twenty-mile drive was over a perfect road, usually shadowed by great trees, amid which we saw scores of thatched huts and clustering villages, looking precisely like pictures that used to appear in the missionary Sunday- school books of our childhood. This day, for the first time, we saw the peasants, not wearing a protecting turban, but carrying flat palm-leaf umbrellas between them and the implacable sun. At a little Christian village five miles from Trichur we visited a Syrian church, and were welcomed by the priests, who gave us refreshing water from cocoa- nuts. Hundreds of the friendly Christian villagers swarmed curiously about us, their genuine kindness taking away the discomfort of being stared at. We here left our jutkas, and entered the purple-lined carriage of the Patriarch, which had been sent to meet us. As we entered Trichur, — a MALABAR COAST AND MADURA. 41I well-shaded city of seventy thousand mhabitants, nearly half of whom are Christians, — crowds of young men began to gather about and to follow the carriage. Their number soon reached into hundreds, and from the bazaars there was a constant succession of the most kindly greetings. The men, boys, and children wore amulets, some of them crosses, around their necks. "All of them Christians," said the Patriarch, over and over again. Arriving at the cathedral and patriarchal palace, we found the great courtyard lavishly decorated with hundreds of streamers and with flowers and foliage. Over the gateway and above the word " Welcome " in gilt letters were the English and American flags. We were received by the bishop in a purple satin robe and by the attending priests and elders. A thousand people followed us into the courtyard, to whom I spoke from the balcony. Before this a printed address of most cordial welcome from the Chaldean community was read to us inside the palace, and I made a somewhat lengthy response, which was trans- lated into the INIalayalam language. The next day was Sunday, — our last Sunday in India. In the morning the Prince accompanied us in a drive to the hospital, English residency, and the Maharajah's palace. Trichur is in a Native State, and appears very well governed. It was a great relief to get away from the painted foreheads, daubed with the marks of various deities, to this Christian community, where such sights are rare. At half-past nine we attended high mass in the cathedral, conducted by the bishop, who offered special prayers for America and for us. My name and that of my country were the only words I recognized in the entire service. The Gospels were read both in Malayalam and in the old Syriac version. We sat with Prince Nouri in chairs directly in front of the altar. The church was crowded with clean, fine- faced, happy- looking worshippers. Nearly all of the men are naked to the waist. All the clothing that we saw was pure white. During most of the day the courtyard was half full of people waiting to see us come in or go out. 412 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. At half-past one o'clock the elders had an interview with me, and told the sad story of the persecutions from which they are suffering on account of the attempts of the Roman Church to get possession through the courts of the Syrian churches. They have been compelled to spend many thousands of rupees to defend their ancient rights and prop- erty. I am glad to report that the effort to take from them the Trichur Cathedral was defeated. When the Portuguese became dominant on the western coast early in the sixteenth century, the Romish priests resolved to bring the ancient Syrian Church under the papal yoke. The Syrian bishop was seized and sent to Portugal, and there tried by the In- quisition. The Syrian Church was oppressed, and by ver}'^ unrighteous means papal authority established over a part of it. A Chaldean bishop, on his way to the help of those Syrians who resisted the Roman oppression, was captured, sent to Goa, imprisoned, and burned as a heretic in 1654. With the advent of the Dutch and the decrease of Portu- guese power, the Syrians regained their freedom and some of their rights. But Rome retained her dominion over the greater part of the people. To-day in Travancore and Cochin she has more than four hundred thousand of them. The Syrian Christians number two hundred thousand. Some of them are decidedly evangelical, as is the new Patriarch. The Syrians are not united, however, and they have a re- lentless foe that is striving through legal processes to deprive them of their ancient and precious inheritance. The sym- pathies of liberty-loving people the world over are with this faithful and long-suffering church. I am confident that there are many Roman Catholics in America who, if they knew the condition of things here, would heartily reprobate the effort to accomplish by law in the nineteenth century what the Inquisition failed to do in the sixteenth and seventeenth. Everything was done for our comfort at the Patriarch's residence, and in the evening he read a second address of welcome from himself and the bishops, which was Oriental MALABAR COAST AND MADURA. 413 in its warmth and coloring. The good bishop, Mar Augus- tinos, himself a Chaldean, has been devoting his life for twenty years, without a vacation, to his diocese. One of his best friends is a beautiful green parrot, which he has had for seven years, and who talks to him, I know not in what language. In the evening I had a call from a learned, fine- looking priest from Travancore, with whom and the bishop Prince Nouri and I carried on a fraternal triangular conver- ^ sation. I spoke to Prince Nouri in English, he reported in Arabic to the bishop, who transmitted the message in Chaldean to the priest. Thus the ages and the conti- nents were linked together. The shores of Lake Michigan, the sands of Arabia, and the banks of the Euphrates drew near to each other on the coasts of India ; while hundreds of the Christians of Trichur looked up from the courtyard to the balcony where this strange conjunction occurred ! . At three o'clock Sunday afternoon I made another long address to one thousand people in the courtyard, and later I lectured to two thousand Christians and non-Christians in and around the Hindu College. The Governor of Trichur, a Hindu, presided. Prince Nouri made an eloquent ad- dress, and our carriage was followed by many hundreds, — one of the strangest sights that my eyes ever rested on. The next morning we regretfully bade good-by to our generous- hearted friends. The Prince accompanied us five miles on our way to the little village before referred to. With tears and Oriental embraces separation took place. The Prince returned in the patriarchal carriage to Trichur. We entered our jutka, and were driven to Shoranur, saying to ourselves that we had passed through an experience strange and new. Those interested in Oriental customs may like to be told that on the Malabar coast we saw an extreme fashion in ear-rings, — a fashion with which we became still further familiar in Southern India. A hole is made in a girl's ear, which is enlarged by inserting bigger and bigger disks until 414 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. the lobes often reach to the shoulders, and attached to these lobes are gold or silver ornaments. I was sorry to find this barbarous custom prevailing sometimes in Christian schools, though usually among older persons. It cannot last long among those trained as Christians. Our next halt w^as in Madura, capital of one of the old Indian kingdoms, — an interesting and splendid city of nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants. En route we saw the historic rock and fort of Trichinopoli. Our journey from Trichur occupied twenty-eight hours. Before reaching the city of Madura we could see the famous temple — one of the largest in India, and, on the whole, the finest — lift- ing its lofty gopuras above the verdant plain. A large del- egation met us on our arrival, among them the Reverend J. P. Jones, D.D., one of the foremost men of the American Board. The garlands which Madura gives are not of flowers, but of gold and silver thread, and famous throughout India. We were glad to have some relic of this sort that would not fade on the voyage to America. We were guests for a part of the time of the Reverend Mr. and Mrs. Vaughan, and for one of our two nights at Dr. and Mrs. Jones's pleasant bun- galow three miles away at Pasumalai. Madura gave me a crowded programme : a reception and address at the East Gate Church ; two lectures in Hindu club-houses ; a meeting with the American Board missionaries ; a morning conver- sazione, where I answered questions for an hour ; a delight- ful breakfast with Judge and Mrs. Russell, in whose com- pound is the finest banyan-tree that I have seen in India, a tree which both the Prince of Wales and the present Em- peror of Russia have tried to climb ; a visit to Miss Swift's Zenana training-school for Bible women, a very useful and important institution, where the Bible women who were there being trained kindly gave us limes and garlands ; a visit to Miss Noyes's girls' school ; tea at the picturesque home of the British commissioner, Mr. Twig, — a peculiar house, built by Tirumala, an Indian king, for tiger fights and gladiatorial shows, at the door of which, as we came out, the servants MALABAR COAST AND MADURA. 415 killed a green poisonous snake six feet long ; a visit to the boys' school, theological seminary, and Brahman hostel in connection with the American Mission at Pasamulai, and an address to the Christians of that interesting community. After this came two delightful days in Tinnevelly among the good people of the English Church Missionary Society. Here I gave my closing lectures in India in a large pavilion, which the native Christians had constructed for the occasion. Besides this I addressed the students of the Church Mis- sionary College and the girls in the Sarah Tucker College. In this fine institution we saw and heard some new things. Here were blind girls who read to us from the first chapter of Matthew, — and sang to us while one of them played the piano. Then we saw quite a large number of deaf mutes, who deeply impressed us as with faces and fingers they told us the story of Jesus down through the flight into Egypt. There are a hundred thousand Protestant Christians in Tinnevelly dis- trict ; and how the scepticism which some people feel in regard to foreign missions would be dispelled, and how some apostles of Hinduism would be enlightened, should they be- come familiar with the educational, charitable, medical, evangelizing, and other work of this noble and successful mission ! I had a strange feeling of thankfulness and relief when, at Tinnevelly, the last of my lectures in India was given. And it seemed to me significant and almost pro- phetic of the great Christian victories of the future, that, while I began my speaking in India in Benares, the capital of Hinduism, I ended it in the Christian light and hope per- vading this splendid mission. I was promised an audience of twelve hundred native Christians if I would stay over and preach on Sunday, but I could not well remain. Tinne- velly is doubtless the "show place " of English missions, as Beirut is for the Presbyterians, and the Hawaiian Islands are for the American Board. It is said that English churches have been told so much of Tinnevelly that they close their ears when the name is mentioned by missionary speakers. But I have heard of one who captured his auditors by a 41 6 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. thrilling account of the work in this district in which he mentioned only unfamiliar names, taking great care never to say " Tinnevelly." We had no more delightful hosts in India than the Brahman Christians, Mr. and Mrs. Shreena- vassa, who entertained us here. CHAPTER XXXV. CEYLON. (~\^ March sixth we bade good-by to our hosts, Mr. and ^-^ Mrs. Shreenavassa, and, equipped with sandwiches and a big bottle of tea, entered the train for Tuticorin. This is the jumping-off place for men, as it formerly was for gods, who wish to escape to Ceylon. Arriving there, several kindly Christian catechists of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel met ns with garlands and with cordial words of greeting and farewell. The health officers made us no trouble, and we boarded the little launch which carried us seven miles out to the " Katoria," the biggest and best of the British India steamers running to Colombo. Soon after I went on board, a young Indian connected with the ship's service said to me : " You are, I beHeve, Dr. Barrows. I wish to thank you for your services to Chris- tianity in dispelling falsehoods which are being circulated in Southern India to the effect that England and America are being Hinduized." I learned that he was a Roman Catholic, and belonged to a Christian community that reached back more than three hundred years to the work of Xavier. Soon the long, low coast of India faded from our view, and that great land which drew to it the covetous eye of Alexander and where British adventurers founded an empire greater and more durable than Alexander's — India, which climbs from its plains and plateaus to the loftiest heights of the world, — India, the spoil of conquerors and the inspira- tion of poets and sages, the land of sorrow and distress and blighting pestilence, which is to-day dear to the world's 27 41 8 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. pitying heart, a land, too, which is of all lands the battle- field of the world's religions — became for us henceforth a memory, a memory which gathers to itself a host of kindly thoughts and courteous deeds and friendly faces, many of them " dusk faces with white silken turbans wreathed." Land of sorrow and struggle, of intellectual greatness ; land of gentle manners and keen intelligence, of undying hope and unwithering national pride, — thou bearest on thy bosom the ashes of Gautama Buddha, the grave of Keshub Chunder Sen, the peerless beauty of the Taj Mahal, the throbbing hearts of millions who love thee and who look in faithful aspiration to God and to a golden future which shall not fail thee, — farewell, and count us ever among thy lovers, ready to serve thee, eager to befriend thee, unable to forget thee ! At half-past eight o'clock the next morning we were an- chored in the harbor of Colombo. After another medical examination we and our luggage were landed by means of a small boat, and without a second's delay at the custom- house Mem Sahib and I were soon rolling in jinrikishas along the sea-road a mile away to the Galle Face Hotel, overlooking one of the finest beaches in the world. The cooling tub, the sea-breezes, which, if not '' spicy," were fresh and healing, iced drinks, and a bamboo couch helped to mitigate the intense and overpowering heat. The Rev- erend Mr. Moscrop, a Wesleyan missionary, called to inform me that my two lectures in Colombo were to be on the next Friday and Saturday evenings. Therefore we had nearly a week of freedom. I felt like an escaped schoolboy. " Now my task is smoothly done, I can fly or I can run." And the next day we took our flight from Colombo for Kandy. Colombo itself is interesting, the chief city of an island, part of which may have been the original paradise of man. Half the size of the Empire State of New York and with half its population ; set like a jewel in the Indian Sea ; CEYLON. 419 luxuriant in palm-trees and cinnamon groves ; covered with tea and coffee plantations and with immense forests, through which herds of elephants still rove ; rising into great and beautiful mountains which lift one into the regions of phys- ical comfort, and yet almost everywhere covered with a rank and indescribably vigorous vegetation wherein nature displays not only her stupendous power but also her tropic violence, — Ceylon affords so many attractions, so much of interest, with its great variety of populations, with its pic- turesque ruined cities, temples, and its unmatched health- resorts among the hills, that I do not wonder at the enthu- siasm of traveller and poet. Literally, every prospect pleases, and I do not think that man here displays any con- spicuous or unusual vileness. Indeed, a few days on the island and among its people made me feel how much supe- rior, as a civilizing and humanizing force, is Buddhism to the degrading Hinduism, which, fallen from its higher ancient philosophies, has perverted the life of India. Colombo, a city of one hundred and thirty thousand in- habitants, seems to be buried, most of it, in vegetation. Where the sun is nearly vertical, one welcomes any amount of shade. The houses are almost hidden in palm groves. A drive to the cinnamon gardens or Victoria Park leads one to pass many a charming and picturesque bungalow, and by the sites of several important schools, churches, and col- leges. The Portuguese, Dutch, and Enghsh have had their hands on the rice-fields and sugar-canes, the feathery bam- boos, nutmegs, and breadfruit-trees, of this most wondrous of tropic isles. The years of British rule have brought material prosperity. Colombo is now a great port, and really the meeting-place of the North and the South, the East and the West. Great French, English, German, Italian, and Austrian lines of steamships centre here. From Colombo you sail for Melbourne or Marseilles, Madagascar, or Java, Calcutta or Shanghai, Alexandria or Yokohama ; Aden or Saigon, Liverpool or New Caledonia, Trieste or Singapore. But we were impatient to leave Colombo for Kandy, where 420 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. we might find coolness and quiet in the midst of scenes as beautiful as the hand of God ever created. " The fairest view that these eyes of mine ever rested on," said General Booth, speaking of Kandy. It was a ride of seventy-five miles, — the hottest ride, for a part of the way, which we have on our record, — a ride that carried us up through pretty views of forests and sloping tea-fields and terraced rice- paddies, nearly seventeen hundred feet, to this old cap- ital, for which the Cingalese, Portuguese, Dutch, and English have struggled, but sacred forever to the memory of the calm and peaceful Buddha, whose tooth consecrates the little temple which rises on the shores of a tiny lake. In the Queen's Hotel we made our home for nearly four days. To me the most delightful experience of this time was an occasional spin in a jinrikisha around the palm- fringed and hill-shaded lake. It is a place for perfect, dreamy quietness. Nature is not so violent and gigantic as at Darjeeling ; the sea is not present with its everlasting moan and its terrible power of dragging the mind far, far away to " inhospitable shores " of thought and feeling. All seems like a picture of Eden from Milton's fifth book of the " Paradise Lost." How profuse is the bloom from the tops of these trees, how wondrous the fruitage of these vari- ous palms, how friendly these hills, how homelike and tranquil these villas embowered in foliage ! One morning, lying in bed, I heard the musical drums of the little Bud- dhist temple amid the trees by the lake. The sound had a strange effect on my imagination. It seemed an echo from remote centuries recalling the cry of the self-exiled Sid- dartha for deliverance. It seemed the voice of millions on the far-off Asiatic plains and the northern Japanese Isles, in a bewildered way calling to prayer. It was another expres- sion of the sweet, sad music of humanit}', stirring in the heart humane and pitiful feelings toward those — and how many they are — " Who, groping in the darks of thought, Touch the Great Hand and know it not." CEYLON. 421 The morning after our arrival we drove to the world- famous royal botanical gardens in Peradeniya. It was a drive of four miles through such displays of bright tropic verdure and bloom as one may have dreamed of, but never reahzed before. The garden itself would have been a per- fect home for Adam and Eve in the blissful morning of time, Adam's Peak, it is well known, dominates the island of Ceylon, One must come to Peradeniya to learn what nature really can do when sun and shower and soil give her the chance of displaying her prodigious force. The wealth and beauty of the tropic world are in that garden. Here we saw the wondrous India-rubber trees, their roots spread- ing like enormous crocodiles or writhing serpents, some of them four feet thick. Here we saw the taliput palm, some- times called the queen of all palms, which in thirty years pushes its white and polished trunk and plume of dark verdure straight upward and then blossoms, shooting up- ward for forty feet a white pyramidal spike, each bloom of which forms a nut, the seed of other palms. The tremen- dous effort of nature has been too much for the mother tree and she dies. Here the nutmeg and clove trees flour- ish, and the ebony and mahogany, the coflee, the vanilla, the camphor, and the cacao, and two hundred varieties of palm-trees. Here is one which can be put to a hundred uses. Here is the breadfruit-tree, and near it the trav- eller's tree, which remind us of " Swiss Family Robinson." Here is the sugar- palm from which fortunes are made in Southern India. Here are the ivory-nut palm, and the prickly palm, and the cabbage palm, and the date palm, the toddy palm, the sago palm, and the cocoanut palm. Ac- companied by a very intelligent Cingalese guide, we walk through wondrous arches of foliage, through the orchid and fern houses, and gaze with joyful astonishment at riches of color and miracles of nature's workmanship, cheapening the tapestries and museums of kings. How poor would the world be without such growths as abound in these gardens ! The physician's art would be 422 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. less potent without the cinchona and cocaine. The world of childhood would be impoverished of one of its delights without the cacao, from which chocolate is made, and the world of commerce without the nutmeg and clove, the ma- hogany and ebony, the coffee and the pepper, the rubber and the cinnamon. We saw the Napoleanum Imperiale, whose blossoms look like a crown, and the giant maidenhair, big enough for the tresses of Hindu goddesses, and we saw here, as we had seen elsewhere, the jackfruit-trees, where the green clumsy fruit, sometimes weighing sixty pounds, clings close to the trunk. Along the beautiful river which waters this garden, we saw clump after clump of the giant Malacca bamboos. These enormous thickets with their close-clustering stems, each as large as a Western tree, shoot upward to an enormous height, and well have been likened to a petrified botanical geyser. Nowhere else have I been so impressed with the vigor — I may say the violence and venom — which aroused nature displays in these portentous and almost incredible growths. Of course I visited the Temple of the Sacred Tooth of Buddha, — not an imposing shrine, but the centre of Bud- dhist devotion in Ceylon, revered also in China and Japan, and rich in annual tributes from Burmese, Siamese, and Cambodian priestly and princely personages. The sacred tooth, brought to Ceylon in the fourth century, was taken back to India one thousand years later, but was recovered and hidden. Later, however, the persecuting Portuguese found it, and it was burned by an archbishop in Goa on the West Coast. The new tooth, which was manufactured of ivory, to take its place, is two inches long and almost an inch wide, and would find itself at home in the mouth of a rhinoceros. When I said to the guide that the tooth was too big for a man, I received this information : " Our religious books tell us that Buddha was eighteen feet high." The beggars are thick at the gates of this shrine, and a red cloth-covered plate is pushed before you at almost every turn within it. We saw a Burmese woman telling CEYLON. 423 her beads in one of the porches. The masses of flowers before the holy places were exquisitely beautiful. One fra- grant flower which here takes the place of the yellow mari- gold in India is called the temple flower. The library in this Buddhist shrine has a large and valuable collection of Buddhist literature. On the outer walls of the temple I saw the hideous frescos representing the punishments in- flicted in the Buddhist hell, and reflected that this religion of pity and gentleness on earth surpasses the mediseval Christian theologians and poets in its pictures of cruel material tortures for those who rob a Buddhist shrine or steal from a Buddhist priest, or commit less heinous crimes. This morning we left Kandy with regret, but soon found ourselves filled with delight over the glorious mountain views which reward the sight as the train climbs the four thousand feet to Nawara Eliya. It was a beautiful ascent, with its glimpses of tea plantations, waterfalls, mountain vistas, hedges of lantanas of many colors, and of other beautiful blooms, such as we find only in our hothouses. A three-mile drive from the station brought us to this, one of the loveliest spots in all the world. Some rather decrepit members of the English aristocracy are here, and all the sports, driving, riding, bicycling, tennis, cricket, golf — most dear to the English heart — may be enjoyed in the midst of climate and scenery on which experienced travellers are now lavishing the praises which have been given to Hono- lulu, Pasadena, Cashmere, the Riviera, and the New Zea- land Alps, all combined in one ! But alas ! it rains this afternoon, and our drive to the botanical gardens and around the Moon Plains must be given up, and to-mor- row night, in Colombo, I return to my old habit of lectur- ing. My whole course of lectures was asked for by the Missionary Conference of Colombo, but I gave only the fifth and sixth. These were delivered in Wesley Hall, where I had my first opportunity of addressing a large number of Buddhists. The Indian Lectureship takes its important and per- 424 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. manent place among the factors of Indian evangeliza- tion. Every two years some well-equipped speaker for the cause of Christ will go forth from Great Britain or America to reach tens of thousands of the educated youth of the Indian colleges. Christian lectureships, setting forth the claims of Christianity, to meet the changing wants of the modern mind, are found eminently useful in the universities and cities of Western Christendom, where men are familiar with Christian truth and largely in accord with Christian philosophy. But in India the case is very different and the need much greater. The govern- ment colleges, where most of the Indian youth are edu- cated, are not Christian. Many of them are decidedly anti-Christian, and some of the professors in them by their words, temper, and lives, give the false impression that Western scholarship has little or no sympathy with Chris- tianity, and especially with the evangelical type of it rep- resented by the missionaries. I shall never forget how eagerly some of the native Christian teachers of Benares welcomed my lecture on " The Spiritual World of Shake- speare." They said : " It will have a good influence in showing these young men that the greatest of poets was in sympathy with Christian truth." The great majority of our missionaries are overworked already, organizing and teaching schools, preaching in bazaars and villages, attend- ing to the business details of missions, making out reports, settling accounts, overseeing catechists, busy with corre- spondence. Some are translating the Scriptures, editing vernacular and English papers, visiting the sick, and pre- paring for long preaching-tours in camps. Only a few, comparatively speaking, can find leisure to make themselves specialists through a thorough knowledge of Hindu philoso- phies, or by the preparation of elaborate apologetic lectures. In the years to come the Lectureship will give a breath of fresh, strong inspiration to the toilsome and in some re- spects restricted lives of our noble missionaries, by bring- ing them into contact with Western Christian scholars, rich CEYLON. 425 with the spoils of special investigation and afire with heaven-kindled faith. And more than this, the Lecture- ship will bring to eager- minded Hindu youth, who are usually very wiUing to listen to men of eminence in whose works or lives they have been taught to take interest, such clear, strong, wise statements of Christian truth as will fur- nish materials for subsequent thought, and help to correct the intellectual attitude of the people who have been trained, as Sir Henry Maine has said, in " false morality, false history, false philosophy, false science." For these and other reasons the Indian Lectureship is far more needed in India than similar endowments are in Oxford or New York. Furthermore, as the Hindus are pre-eminently a reading people, and as India is the land of cheap printing, inex- pensive editions of the lectures may reach a wide circle and be a useful legacy for years to come. Dr. Murdoch, of Madras, of the Christian Literature Society, is deemed by everybody one of the most influential Christian forces in India. By him five thousand copies of my lectures have already been printed ; and it has certainly been cheering to me that several missionaries have ordered a hundred or more copies for their own special use. Besides all this, I apprehend that the lecturers themselves going back to Great Britain or America, will have a useful mission in the home- lands. They certainly must be very dull of perception and feeling if they cannot speak with more interest and vivid personal knowledge of the needs of Christian missions and of the progress of Christ's Kingdom in the Orient. My three months in India, where I became familiar with work carried on by the American Board, American Presbyterians, Bap- tists, and Methodist?, and the Reformed Church ; by English Wesleyans, the London Mission Society, English Baptists, the Church Missionary Society, the Free, Established, and United Presbyterian Churches of Scotland, the Canadian Presbyterians, and others have strengthened in rae several convictions, toward which I had been inclined by previous 426 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. Study. I went to India with an open mind. No previous opinions, however, have been changed, except in this, that they have been deepened during three eventful months into which were crowded experiences enough for many years. Let me enumerate a few of the convictions which I pro- foundly feel. Christian missions have all the greatness and importance which have ever been claimed for them. Christ is the essen- tial factor in the regeneration of India. Only the Divine Christ as revealed in the Gospels, the incarnate Son of God, the atoning Redeemer, the risen Conqueror of the grave, is adequate to human needs. The missionaries are a faithful, devoted, and self-sacrificing body of men and women, de- serving our affectionate support and our full confidence. There is among them an unusual amount of willingness to adopt new methods and to adapt themselves to changing necessities. The methods of missions are not stereotyped. The results of missions are great, various, and encouraging. Much more preparatory work must be done before the largest harvests are reaped. The educational work in Christian colleges should have a foremost place in our confidence and in our expectations for the future. The chief men in this Christian college work thoroughly under- stand the situation and are laying firm foundations. The men who are doing most to fill up the gap which has been distressingly wide between the educated Hindu and the average missionary, are those who have taken time to be- come familiar with Hindu thought, and whose wisdom and love have given them the spirit of openly expressed sym- pathy with the nobler aspects and elements of philosophic Hinduism. The religion which the educated Hindu is form- ing and adopting to-day and is vainly hoping may prove a substitute for that Christianity whose progress he fears, and some of whose representatives he does not approve, is a composite of Vedic, Vedantic, and Christian ideas and sen- timents, which he labels Hinduism. Very much of village, zenana, and primary educational work in India may be CEYLON. 427 successfully carried on by men and women of consecrated spirit and loving hearts who are not largely equipped with the learning given by a study of comparative theology. But there are many intending missionaries whose work in India will be much more thorough, wise, and acceptable if they secure in advance that special preparation for meeting the educated Hindu mind which Dr. ElUnwood and others have strongly recommended. Ceylon, as well as India, is now a thing of the past. At Nuwara Eliya last Friday morning the sun smiled again, and the dawn was superb and refreshing after the much-needed rain. We took a drive about the lake, and gained a good idea of a region which seems to fascinate all who come to it. On the breakfast- table the flowers were those of the temperate zone, — daisies, pinks, geraniums, coreopsis, and larkspur, — and out of doors the callas, fuschia trees, and eucalyptus reminded us of California. The slide down hill to Colombo took most of the day, but the temperature went up as we went down. Had it not been for the entrancing views, the refreshment car, and the interest of '' Sir George Tressady," the heat might have disturbed our tempers. The Reverend Mr. Moscrop received us into his comfortable bungalow among the slender cocoanut palms, on the marge of the loud-resounding sea. Wesley Hall was thronged on that night and the next. On the first evening the presiding officer was a Christian Cingalese lawyer, a member of the governor's council. The audience was half Christian, and it was quite a relief to address so large a proportion of hearers in full sympathy with my words. Ceylon has a Christian population of more than three hundred thousand, of whom about fifty-six thousand are Protestants. The Portuguese and the Dutch used force to persuade the people of this island to accept Christianity. Mr. Moscrop says that '' Ceylon has been christianized twice over, or, rather, ecclesiasticized, — a very different thing." When the coercion was removed, thousands, of course, went back to Buddhism and Hinduism. 428 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. Better methods prevail to-day, and Christian progress has been genuine and hopeful. Saturday afternoon I was hon- ored by a call from Sumangala, the high-priest of Ceylonese Buddhism, a man of great learning and distinction. In his yellow silk robe and bare feet and shaven head he preserved the general characteristics of the Buddhist monk as he has appeared in Asiatic history for the last twenty-four centuries. But he himself is a modern man, familiar with recent thought and radiant with the spirit of gentleness and toler- ance. We had much pleasant talk of Dharmapala, at whose father's house we were entertained that night at din- ner. In the days of Portuguese and Catholic ascendency European Christian names were freely given and received by the people. Dharmapala's father bears the name of Don Carolis. This is his business designation, and he is a man who has been eminently successful. It was pleasant to meet in his large and beautiful home his wife and sons and daughters, some of whom are familiar with the English language. Colombo has a warm place in my recollection, not only on account of its beauty and the kindnesses of its people, but also because there I heard the first sermon in English to which I have Ustened since leaving Cairo. Yes- terday morning we made our final arrangements for the long voyage of twenty-one days between Colombo and Japan. Our host accompanied us to the ship. This was not the " Yarra," as we had expected. That vessel had touched at Bombay, and had been quarantined at Marseilles and taken out from her published schedule. Marutee, our " boy," who had been with us from December fifteenth to March fifteenth, left us and our luggage on the steamer and departed. Dear Marutee ! What a solemn, faithful boy he was ! His age was perhaps fifty. Strong and very dark, he waited for us like a black, solemn sentinel at the door of every carriage, bungalow, shop, and bedroom. How familiar he became with our belongings ! How carefully he guarded us from thieves ! How many useful offices he filled ! He CEYLON. 429 packed and unpacked our boxes and bundles, bought our tickets, engaged our railway carriages, hired our coolies, acted as our interpreter (until in South India he struck lan- guages which he did not know), waked us at night when trains were to be left or changed, and waited on us at table. We never saw him smile, and scarcely ever saw him sit down. We are told that he has spoiled us for travelling in other lands. And all this for his railway fare and thirty-five rupees a month. Provided with his wages, an allowance for food, a recommendation, a photograph of " master," which he had asked for, and a ticket back to Poona, our faith- ful companion left us to the tender mercies of French stewards and of the eternal sea. The shores of Ceylon, after a few hours, faded from view, and we dreamed of America and were joyful. A beautiful rainbow arched itself from the shore out. into the sea, and our hearts welcomed the hopeful sign. That for which I left church and city and native land has now been done. The faith and foresight of Mrs. Haskell have been justified ; and her name is already a household word, beloved and revered throughout India, and to be as familiar in the com- ing Christian history of that land as the name of Bishop Heber or of Alexander Duff. The lecturers who follow me in the years and generations to come will have a cordial greeting and find a large field of usefulness. I am grateful not only for the opportunities which the India pilgrimage has afforded, the thousand courtesies which have been ex- tended, but also for the providential care which through heat and plague and wearing labors has brought us, in health and safety, to the present hour, when ray mind is divided between happy memories of " eldest Ind " and delightful anticipations of the young, fair land of which we so often think and speak as " God's country." The six days' voyage on the French steamer "Yang-tse," across the Bay of Bengal, down the straits of Malacca, along the shore of the great island of Sumatra, were days of grateful rest and happy memories. As we neared Singapore, we prom- 430 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. ised ourselves never even to think disrespectfully of the equa- tor again. One afternoon we saw some queer-looking black things floating off to the south, and the rumor was started and soon gained currency that the heat had finally told on the equator so that it had melted and broken up and we saw its fragments. The men on our ship were in one re- spect like the habitants of heaven, — they were clothed in white ! Shall I ever cease being grateful to our hostess in the Christian College of Madras who sent for a tailor and for my comfort had made two cotton suits of exceeding light- ness, costing two dollars and a half apiece, but worth far more than their weight in gold? We arrived at the island of Singapore on Sunday morning. It is a delightful place for those who enjoy tropic foliage and immeasurable heat. England of course has stamped upon it the impress of good government, and fully appreciates an island which stands warder at the gates of the Pacific and Indian seas. The Chinese, however, are predominant even over the Malays in Singapore ; and they give one the impression of good living, good-nature, physical vigor, and worldly prosperity. We had our breakfast Sunday morning at the Hotel de I'Europe, and then rode in jinrikishas to a Presbyterian church. We found the service had been at half-past seven in the morning. Think of that, O lazy Am.ericans ! Then we went to find the Chinese Methodist Sunday- school, which Bishop Thoburn told me was the largest Sunday-school in Asia. But this meets on Fridays ! Then we went to the Public Gardens, and at three o'clock set sail into the Pacific Ocean for China, Japan, and home ! CHAPTER XXXVI. ON THE CHINA COASTS. WE have skirted the coasts of China, touching at Saigon, Hong Kong, and Shanghai. But we saw the repre- sentatives of the Chinese Empire and reaUzed some of the extent of the Chinese industrial domain long before we looked at the rocky and iron-bound and storm-lashed shores of the world's hugest nationahty. Was not our "punka" pulled by a Chinaman on the way to Bombay? Did not a Catholic Chinaman in the Hindu city of Madras make for me the slippers which I now wear? Did we not see hundreds of stout-legged Chinamen in the streets of Singapore? And when I arrive on the American shores and reach my own city and go thence to the Atlantic coast, I shall be conscious that the Chinese industrial em- pire already has nearly belted the globe. We left Singapore March twenty-first and arrived at Saigon, a thriving city in the Frenchmen's China, on the twenty-third. We had a rough sea nearly all of that day until we passed Cape St. James and entered the Donai River, up which we steamed forty miles through a flat and rather uninteresting country, until we reached Saigon, a city of which I have the most unpleasant recollections. Our cabin was on the port side of the ship, and was jammed up against the dock so that our one window was closed, and in such stifling heat this made life almost unbearable, except on deck. We arrived early in the evening, and, engaging a Chinese cabman, who knew a little " pigeon English " but no French, we were driven to five different hotels in search of a room in which to spend the night. Our search was 432 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. vain ; all were full, and we thought there must be a presi- dential convention bringing to the city a multitude of ardent patriots. There is no doubt that France has got hold of a good piece of property in the Orient, and a Frenchman whom I met this morning in Kobe and who had spent several months in French China, was very enthusiastic in his account of the natural productions of the country. Quite a number of our French fellow-travellers left us at Saigon. There were three of them from whom we were very anxious to part, but they remained on board our steamer until we reached Hong Kong on the twenty-eighth of March. These were a gay and brilliant couple, with their infant daughter, perhaps three years old, \vho was the c?ifant ter- rible of the steamer. I never have seen elsewhere a child so badly trained. She excited much pity. Little Marie had wine for breakfast, beer for luncheon, wine for dinner, and brandy and soda before going to bed at ten o'clock. Her parents were whimsical and irritable tov.'ard her, severe and indulgent by turns, and the poor child was worn out and nervously upset all the time. Occasionally she acted like a fiend. The story was current that the child's underclothing had not been changed since she left Marseilles. The brandy and soda made her sleepy some time toward midnight, and she was laid upon her berth in the clothes that she had worn through the day. At Saigon little Marie was dressed very brilliantly and taken by her parents to see " Hamlet " in French opera. Those who saw it reported the performance incredibly bad, and this may have had its effect on the sensitive Parisian child. We were thirty-six hours at Saigon, and one night I slept on deck and tried to realize where we were. Our environ- ment surely was strange and almost unbelievable. Beneath us was the ship, representing the scientific victories of the nineteenth century, — our floating, temporary home ; at the table we had the luxuries of modern civilization ; around us were people who had come from all parts of the earth ; on the shore began that populous continent of Chinese life ON THE CHINA COASTS. 433 which stretched northward to Siberia and westward to Thibet, and in yonder theatre men and women were enacting the scenes which three centuries ago had haunted the mind of an EngUsh country tradesman's son, whose present intel- lectual empire shows that he is the poet of humanity. Besides two nights, we spent an entire day at Saigon, or, rather, on board the ship, for I had no desire to leave the vessel for anything that was visible on the shore. The day was almost unbearable, with the hot, close, and stifling atmos- phere. The passage in front of our cabin door was crowded with freight, with boxes of Benares opium, which the coolies were landing, and with an enormous amount of boxed silver coin, which the Chinamen, carefully supervised, were carry- ing ashore. I spent the day writing and in watching the queer boats, which made the scene on the river very odd and lively. These boats, covered with matting, like long, low market- wagons, or like Noah's ark, with sails of matted grass, were everywhere and alive with people. One of our Enghsh companions, who had lived thirty years in China, afifirmed that he never had seen a fine-looking Chinese woman, and certainly the features of those whom we saw managing the boats were far from beautiful. In every country where women are set to the tasks which in America usually are allotted to men, that fineness and beauty which we associate with femininity is soon lost. We saw here, as later at Hong Kong and Shanghai, how populous China has spilled over into the sea. What multitudes live on the water ! Hun- dreds of thousands of families have their homes, if such they may be called, in boats. Here the children are born. A woman, two hours after recording an addition to her family, will be propelling the boat with the new-comer strapped upon her back. Sometimes, it is said, the chil- dren have bamboo sticks tied to them, so that when they fall into the water they may be dragged out easily. But in spite of the animahsm, the narrowness, and the poverty of such lives they did not appeal to us with the distress which always disturbed us in India. These Chinese families 28 434 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. seemed well fed, their faces and legs were round, and they had the appearance of people who enjoyed a cer- tain amount of animal satisfaction. We observed a tendency among our English companions to depreciate the efforts of missionaries to improve the minds and morals, the ideals and condition of the Chinese coolies and all the lower grades of the vast Chinese popula- tion. One of them said to me, " You might as well attempt to Christianize rats or rabbits." No more heathenish and abominable sentiment than this, so unworthy of the better England, ever was uttered in my hearing. Precisely such talk greeted the early Christian apostles and preachers who found their first converts among the coolies and slaves of Antioch, Ephesus, of Corinth, and Rome ; and certainly such talk is contradicted by the facts, with which, however, some English merchants living long in China appear to be quite unfamiliar ! We were not sorry to bid adieu to Saigon ; and as our ship left the Donai River and turned her prow northward, we began after a few hours to realize the possibiHty of an ultimate escape from tropic heat. On the twenty-sixth of March it had become considerably cooler, almost comfort- able, and I found myself in a condition to do a large amount of literary work. I shall associate a good many of the books and pamphlets on Hinduism which came into my posses- sion in India with this voyage on the China Sea. I have come to realize what an immense and permanent factor in human civilization climate is. The advent of cooler weather produced a great change in the appearance of our company of travellers. The white garments disappeared ; overcoats and even sealskin cloaks came to light ; everywhere there were attempts at exercise on the part of the passengers, and even the flirting which a beautiful English lady was carrying on with one of the French officers seemed to take on new activity as we approached Hong Kong. We heard the fog-horn more or less during the night of March twenty-seventh, and we awoke the next day to find ON THE CHINA COASTS. 435 ourselves stock-still in a heavy fog. Cannon were fired sev- eral times to discover if echoes could be heard from a famous and dangerous rock thereabouts. During the middle ' of the day the fog lifted for several hours, and we slowly pro- ceeded, catching views of hilly islands to our right and of a dimly mountainous coast to our left. Besides we saw innumerable junks with sails of matting. I found amuse- ment during the day in reading Kipling's " Seven Seas" and in dictating letters; but, oh, how cold it was, and how the fog chilled the bodies that had been bathed so long in tropic steam ! It was eight o'clock in the evening when Hong Kong was reached, but there was no landing till the morrow. It looked very beautiful in the night-time, with the harbor full of lantern-hghted boats and the town running up the hillside, gleaming with thousands of gas-jets. In the morning it was more beautiful still, and the lofty island rose from its sheltered harbor, full of other and smaller islands, looking like a strong sentinel guarding one of the chief rivers of China. Yes, seven hours up the river is the great city of Canton, and here at the mouth of it England holds what has become the fourth port of the world. Some of our English friends invited us to use their launch in landing, and at ten o'clock in the morning we set foot in the city of Victoria, — for such is its name, though you may never have known it before. We were soon inside the magnificent Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank, devouring letters which had been sent from the ends of the earth to meet us there. After an hour in this most delightful of occupations, we were carried in sedan chairs by stout coolies to the tramway which climbs the steep island of Hong Kong. The view from the summit of Victoria Peak is most interest- ing, and I realized for the first time that the shore of China is grimly rocky and inhospitable. But I had all the while the feeling that something immense lay beyond, something portentous, — indeed, one of the chief factors in the future life of humanity. Beneath us was the blue harbor, filled with shipping, and the town, well built and prosperous. 436 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. Azaleas, violets, and many strange wild-flowers covered the side of the lofty hill ; and nature presented a lovely aspect, quite in contrast with the history of war, plunder, plague, and conquest which I might write out in connection with the story of Hong Kong. Great Britain bears a heavy responsibility in having forced the opium traffic into China, and more than one writer has pointed out the contrast between the English opium policy and her noble antislavery legislation. It is not true, however, that England entered upon the opium war simply in order to force the Chinese to provide a mar- ket for the produce of the poppy fields of India. As Dr. W. A. P. Martin has pointed out in his fascinating volume, "A Cycle of Cathay," there were many grievances of long standing which occasioned the opium war. One of these was a proclamation issued every year by the Chinese gov- ernment, accusing foreigners of horrible crimes. Another still was the Chinese habit of compelling the British ambas- sador to do homage to the Emperor, with the implication that England was a vassal of China. It is a pity that Great Britain, when war was ended in 1842, in the opening to British trade of the five ports of Canton, Amoy, Fuchow, Ningpo, and Shanghai, did not have the moral courage and the Christian benevolence to insert into the treaty a clause prohibiting the destructive traffic which is working such ruin to-day in China, and which thus is associated with the policy and the good name of a so-called Christian nation. What a checkered spectacle of crime and glory England's Asiatic policy has been ! Gaining possession of the barren mountain island of Hong Kong, England has transformed this area of twenty-nine square miles into one of the most picturesque and beautiful places in the world. Destructive typhoons and conflagrations, plagues, and wars have stood in the way of immense and uninterrupted prosperity; but still Hong Kong is a leading port of Asia, and Victoria has a population of more than two hundred thousand souls. When Dr. Martin arrived here in 1850, it was after a voyage ON THE CHINA COASTS. A.l'J of one hundred and thirty- four days from Boston. It gives one an idea of the strength of the missionary impulse and motive which carried men from America to this inhospitable coast to remember such a fact as this. In 1850, he informs us, the rate of passage on the steamer from Hong Kong to Shanghai was two hundred dollars in gold. We did not take the time from our i^w hours in Hong Kong to visit the friends and correspondents with whom for years I have associated the name of the Enghsh island, greatly as we should have been delighted to meet them. The Christian missionaries and teachers who are at work in the great Chinese cities are doing something at least to overcome the hostility felt by the Chinese to all foreigners. I do not mean that they are changing the Chinese policy of exclusion, but they are reaching individuals and showing that pure self- ishness is not the universal mark of Western civilization. As one walks through the streets of Hong Kong, thronged, prosperous-looking, and adorned with substantial and even splendid buildings, he finds it difficult to believe that this island formerly was the chief emporium of the infamous cooly traffic, the Asiatic slave-trade, by which nearly five hundred thousand Chinese laborers lost their liberty and were carried off to Peru or Cuba, enduring horrors in the voyage over the Pacific almost equal to those of the Atlantic middle passage. Sometimes, however, the coolies rose against their masters, and burned the ship after butchering the crew. George F. Seward relates the story of the American ship " Waverley," which, laden with coolies, entered the port of Manila. Some of the Chinese asked to go ashore, and a dispute followed in which one Chinaman was shot and the rest were forced below and the hatches battened down. " These were not opened till the next morning, when two hundred and fifty-one coolies were found dead." In an outbreak on an Italian ship the coolies were driven below in the same manner, but, unwiUing to perish by suffocation, they set fire to the vessel. The crew escaped, but the ship, with her cargo of human beings, was 438 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. consumed. An English Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of Hong Kong declared, in 187 1, that within a short period six or seven ships, carrying about three thousand coolies, had been burned or otherwise destroyed. In enumerating the improvements which have marked the Victorian era, the historian will not forget to record the disappearance of this Asiatic slave-trade. Hong Kong appeared to me one of the most delightful places that I ever have seen, whether viewed from the top of Victoria Peak or from the prosperous streets below. I am aware that in the summer-time, the heat and moisture make the climate almost unendurable. Henry Norman informs us that one of the chief summer problems of the city is to determine whether the mushrooms which grow on your boots during the night are edible or not. It is said that when the booksellers receive a case of books the first thing they do is to varnish them all over " with a damp-resisting composition containing corrosive sublimate ; otherwise the cockroaches would eat them before they had time to grow mouldy." But these reports I must take on faith. We found the city delightful, the shops interesting, and the evidences of England's success in giving a civilized appearance even to a Chinese city overwhelming. It is said, however, that Hong Kong is a paradise of criminals from the neighboring provinces. They take refuge in the British city and then commit petty offences in order to be imprisoned for a few months, and thus to escape from arrest and torture at the hands of the Chinese officials. However one may grumble at some of the devel- opments of British civilization in the Orient, his grumblings are apt to come to an end when he begins to discover the amenities of Chinese justice. We were rowed out to the steamer, the " Yang-tse," by a celestial family whose home was the boat. Three or four fat boys were stowed in behind us, the father steered, and the mother and one of the older boys tugged at the oars. Gathered about the "Yang-tse" was a whole flotilla of ON THE CHINA COASTS. 439 Chinese junks, and from the deck of our steamer we could watch the hfe of the Chinese household afloat. One never tires of admiring the skill with which the chopsticks are used by young and old, and no one could help rejoicing that the supply of rice seemed, adequate even for Chinese appetites. Chinese idols are apt to be fat, and thus they reflect the Chinese idea of happiness. On the afternoon of March twenty-ninth we sailed away for Shanghai. Some of our companions had gone up the river to Macao and Canton, but time would not permit us to halt, and we knew that at Shanghai we could see one Chinese city ; and in such a case as this one is enough. After three days of strong wind, rough sea, and colder weather, we awoke on the first of April to find ourselves in the Yang- tse River, a veritable Amazon, giving access to the homes of one hundred and seventy-five million people. The shores on either side were invisible. The St. Lawrence is the only stream which I have ever seen that appeared to me to have any such volume of waters. Up the yellow, rough,. and apparently shoreless tide we steamed until land at last came in sight. About twelve miles from Shanghai our steamer stopped and we went aboard the launch " Whangpoo " for a two hours' ride to one of the most important of Asiatic cities. Innumerable boats and ships with eyes painted on the prow met us in this ride. Cotton- factories, oil-tanks, petty Chinese gunboats were passed, and about six o'clock in the evening we touched the wharf. Soon two jinrikishas whirled us along the Bund to the Astor House, the best hotel in the city, bearing an Ameri- can name because it and a great deal of property near it used to belong to an American named Astor. The Euro- pean part of the city is fine, large, handsome, well built, and full of prosperous people. I ordered a fire for our room, and, denying myself the pleasure of attending a Christian Endeavor meeting and of visiting a number of Christian friends, I sat down to read the American newspapers and to smile over the European cables announcing that " a col- 440 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. lective note from the powers was being prepared," and that " the Sultan was meditating new reforms." And so that farce still continues ! When will Europe be ashamed of itself? We had an early breakfast the next morning, and, taking two jinrikishas, we started out to explore Shanghai, where the European part, with its tall buildings of brick and stone and its bright clean street, would look well in any country. We determined, however, to have a ghmpse of the Chinese city, even though we neglected a visit to a famous porcelain tower, and, leaving our jinrikishas at the gate, we went boldly in. As we could find no guide, we plunged forward alone. Hideous, whining beggars sat on the slimy stones just across the sluggishly flowing sewer which separates civilization from Confucianism. The narrow streets were bordered by shops, were thickly covered with liquid filth, crowded with people and heaped high with garbage. Men were carrying through the streets buckets of filth, and many of the sights were as indescribable as the general smell was intolerable. Twenty minutes in the native part of Shanghai would be sufficient to remove from the minds of some of our Western eulogists of Chinese civilization all the glamour which now deceives them. In all my experi- ences in the Orient I have seen nothing, unless it be the shores of the Ganges at Benares, so unspeakably shocking and horrible as the native quarter of this great Chinese city. How any Chinaman can retain his prejudice against " foreign devils " after passing out of the native city into the European quarters, is one of the obscurest of mysteries. It is like going from an inferno of filth to a paradise of cleanliness and beauty. But the Chinaman has no aver- sion to filth and bad smells. He finds them compatible with health and physical vigor. His constitution has been accustomed to the microbes that flourish in the midst of these vile surroundings, and he endures with complacency what would drive an American mad. Friends have assured me, however, that the native quarters of Shanghai are ON THE CHINA COASTS. 44 1 sweet and beautiful compared with some parts of Pekin ; but this is a traveller's tale which I will not believe. More grateful than ever before for the external decencies of civilization, we left the undiluted vileness of native Chi- nese life for the better part of Shanghai, into which the Western world has introduced cleanliness and physical com- fort. After visiting a big, gorgeous, dirty tea-house, given up in part to the use of opium, and making the usual inroad upon a photograph-shop, we got aboard the " Whangpoo," and at half-past ten steamed back for the "Yang-tse," and by noon were sliding down the tawny stream, as big as the ocean. We had no strong desire to see more of China. The whole of the next day our ship rolled and tossed on a rough sea, but, with chairs well placed on deck, we sat out from breakfast till luncheon, tucked up with rugs and our heaviest winter things, having the deck to ourselves so far as sitters, were concerned, for all who came out promenaded briskly in order to keep warm. On the day following we were in the Inland Sea of Japan, which General Grant re- garded as the most beautiful sight in all his trip around the world. Mountains and wooded islands and a sapphire ex- panse of placid water, — Japan was before us, the land of beauty and of progress. But our minds lingered in that prodigious Chinese world out of which we had escaped. However loathsome some of the external features of Chi- nese life, our few days of observation strengthened the con- viction that here was a people having the physical basis of a mighty nationality. They are the great colonizers of the East ; they are flocking into Polynesia ; they are able to redeem the great tropical islands of Borneo and Sumatra, but in their own ancestral home they occupy a land per- haps the most resourceful of any excepting our own on the face of the earth. ''The dragon sleeps," say the Chinese, when men speak of China's recent defeat by Japan. True, and the dragon is a long time in waking ; but when China does rouse herself, according to Napoleon's sagacious proph- ecy, she will change the face of the globe. CHAPTER XXXVII. JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 'E had in Japan nineteen days of pleasant activity. Landing in Kobe on the fifth of April, we sailed from Yokohama on the twenty-fourth. If I do not write as enthusiastically of Japan as most travellers, it will be partly because I was too busy with my lectures to see it thor- oughly and sympathetically, and partly because, engaged in delivering these Christian addresses and constantly meeting with Christian people, I was testing Japan by standards somewhat higher than those that are usually applied. Still, I sympathize with much that has been written in regard to the extraordinary progress which this patriotic, imitative, intelligent, and ambitious people have made in the last forty years. I think my strongest feeling was one of joyful thank- fulness that we were no longer in China, and that we had reached a beautiful country where at least the superficial elements of modern civilization are apparent. Kobe is not the most interesting of Japanese cities by any means, but it gave me those fresh impressions which constitute one of the chief delights of travel. Dr. and Mrs. Atkinson and their family of bright young people made us exceed- ingly welcome, and gave us a new sense of the superiority of things American quite pleasant to our patriotic pride. In the afternoon, accompanied by our host and hostess, we went to Hiogo in jinrikishas, and revelled in Japanese picturesqueness. Everything was interesting, even the persistent curiosity of the people at the Fair, who crowded around us as we inspected the booths and shops and JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 443 shows. We saw the Daibutsu, one of the many big statues of Buddha found in Japan, and inside of it I discovered a beautiful bronze of Buddha as a child, with a fat, sinister face that convulsed us with laughter. I made every effort to buy it, offering twice its value, but all in vain. It was about three feet and a half high, and looked a little like a fat child, intoxicated and with a maudUn leer. It was hard to give it up, and, presenting ourselves in a temple to some Buddhist priests, we entered into negotiations, which ended, alas ! in talk, for the capture of this precious thing. Then we drove through the odd streets, past all sorts of shops, and saw a stone pagoda and another bronze Buddha with a halo round his head, holding up three fingers after the fashion of his Holiness the Pope. In the evening I lectured in the church of Reverend Mr. Ebina, and had my first experience in Japan of attempting to move an audience through an interpreter. The Association of the Kumai, or Congregational Churches of Japan, was to meet in this church the next day, and there were representative Japa- nese pastors present from all over the Empire. The church building itself was spacious and pretty, and on the platform in a beautiful vase was a large branch of the Japanese cherry-tree, while above the pulpit were two Japanese flags. The national spirit enters into religion here as perhaps nowhere else in the world. Patriotism is a chief virtue of the people, and the Christian churches are eager to prove themselves not a whit behind their non-Christian friends and neighbors. I am told that it is the usual- thing for a foreign speaker to occupy a large part of his address in an extended eulogy of Japan. He cannot possibly say any- thing too extravagant, for the people are quick and eager to believe everything great and good of their country. I condensed my eulogium into a few sentences, and endeav- ored to plunge almost immediately into my lecture ; but the interpreter, although he had a printed copy of the address in his hand, was unable to get my ideas before the audience. The situation became unendurable, and finally I asked the 444 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. privilege of giving my lecture without interruption to the end, while the interpreter should follow at his leisure, after I had finished. About a fourth of the audience knew English, and accordingly with more heart and hope I resumed my task. At the close most of the English hearers and those who understood English departed, while my poor friend was left with the remainder of the audience struggling on, I think, till about midnight ! I have now made twenty-two addresses in Japan, most of them through an interpreter, and, on the whole, my ex- perience has been satisfactory and delightful. I cannot speak too highly of the ability and success of the Japanese gentlemen who in Osaka, Kyoto, and Tokyo have repro- duced my elaborate and somewhat difficult addresses.. In many cases they entered fully into the spirit of the lecture, and, having studied it in advance, were able with fluency and fire to enter into the task of interpreting my message. In some cases the intellectual ability displayed was astonish- ing, and the tenacity of memory very remarkable. I would give rapidly two or three pages, and the interpreter would start in as soon as I had finished, and give without omission what I had said. Those who were competent to judge pronounced the work to be admirable, and frequently the interpreter would reproduce the tones of my voice and the gestures of my hands ! I have been told that Reverend Joseph Cook's interpreter in Japan entered so fully into the spirit and style of the great Boston lecturer that even to-day he preaches with the tones and manner of Joseph Cook. The Japanese have great ability in imitation. They have imitated Parisian styles of dress, German methods of fight- ing, English and American ways in commerce, just as cen- turies ago they caught the trick of the best Chinese art and echoed the Confucianist philosophy. They give a national tone and coloring to whatever they have taken from other nations, and to a greater degree than seems desirable, they have endeavored to mould and modify Christianity itself till it assumes Japanese forms. JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 445 The morning after my lecture I looked in on the meeting of the Kumai Association, and it seemed to me that they carried on their business with commendable order and thoroughness. The chief vice of Japanese conferences is a tendency to tedious detail and long-windedness. What breaks down the American missionary in Japan perhaps more than anything else is the " Sodan," or conference, without which nothing can be done. Some trivial matter in church affairs comes up and it must be debated endlessly hour after hour. The Japanese church officials and the nervous and would-be patient American missionaries sit and talk and talk and talk. An affair which could be settled in ten minutes by a little common-sense is made the theme of prolonged discussion. It is useless to attempt to hurry anything ; that would cause offence and new trouble. There is no sense whatever of the value of time in Japan, or in any other part of the Orient. With his hands full of all-important work, the missionary must sit and sit, and join in interminable talk till he comes to feel the truth of Rudyard Kipling's description of British experi- ences in India, — " It is not good for the Christian's health to hustle the Aryan brown ; For the Christian riles and the Aryan smiles, and he weareth the Christian down ; And the end of the fight is a tombstone white, with the name of the late deceased, And the epitaph drear: 'A fool lies here who tried to hustle the East.' " But let us not blame the genrie and talkative Oriental too severely. Think of the British Parliament, and the American Congress, remember how great schemes for national im- provement have been talked to death in the Senate, recall ecclesiastical meetings which make some American and English pastors sorry almost that they entered the ministry, remember the discipline and the exhaustion of nerve and the emptying of all hope and joy out of life which are the natural results of the trivial detail and stupidity of some church official meetings, even in energetic America, and do 446 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. not be too severe on the Japanese who find such delight in a "Sodan." One cannot travel in the interior of Japan without a passport, and accordingly I made my way through the rain to the office of the American Consul in Kobe and secured for one yen, which is equal to fifty cents, that precious document. But, alas for the conditions which accompanied the granting of this right to travel ! There were certain prohibitions, two of which I will mention, that robbed it of most of its pleasure. I was forbidden to desecrate Japanese temples, and also prohibited from at- tending a fire at night on horseback ! It ought to be generally known in America that these harassing conditions are attached to the granting of a Japanese passport. Many of us would not visit the beautiful Empire, if we knew in advance that we could not plunder heathen shrines and gallop to a midnight conflagration on our fiery steeds. When I recall how, in Chicago, when the fire alarm was rung, I used to mount my horse in the night-time and ride to the vicinity of some blazing building on Halsted Street or Dearborn Avenue, there to meet Drs. Withrow, Hillis, MacPherson, Gunsaulus, and Noble, it seemed to me that travel in Japan had lost its dearest charm. But after a while one recovers even from such disappointment, and begins to wonder at the reason for this Japanese regulation. That reason has been lost in the twilight of unrecorded history ; but as the Japanese cling to ancient forms out of which all meaning has departed, much after the fashion of some European Church-establishments, we will not fling at them any very bitter criticisms. After Mrs. Barrows had visited a girls' school in Kobe, and delighted her heart with purchasing some fascinating china, we left our hospitable friends, and in a pouring rain began a brief railway journey to Osaka, where we were met by Reverend Mr. Haworth and Reverend Mr. Fisher, and were soon rolling through the streets of this great town to Mr. and Mrs. Haworth's delightful house. Even in a pour- JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 44^ ing rain one can be perfectly protected in a jinrikisha. But the stout little Japanese that dragged us through the streets, each one of whom might rightly be named Pullman, were among the oddest spectacles that I ever saw, with their bare feet and bare legs and black water-proof capes and broad black hats, as big as an umbrella and just the shape of a toadstool. The programme at Osaka included a reception at Mr. Haworth's, attended by over forty missionaries of all de- nominations, with some Japanese friends superadded ; an address in the Presbyterian Church to about fifty Japanese evangelists, in speaking to whom I endeavored to utter some words of cheer suggested by my recent experiences in India ; a lecture to eight hundred people in the Y. M. C. A. building, and a sermon before the Osaka Presbytery. Be- sides this, we had a delightful visit at the girls' school, where we met Miss Alice Haworth, Miss A. E. Garvin, and Miss Ella McGuire, and quite a number of Japanese girls, who burst out into a hearty American laugh as I bade them good- by on the lawn, using the Japanese word " Sayonara," which signifies, " If it mns^ be so." Among the Christian mission- aries whom we met in Osaka and very highly appreciated, were Reverend Dr. A. D. Hail and Reverend J. B. Hail, of the Cumberland Presbyterian Church. We had one delightful afternoon sight-seeing in company with a number of our friends, visiting the Mint, which was closed for repairs, and the great historic Castle, where the walls show you immense stones that remind you almost of Baalbec. What cyclopean masonry the old Japanese have left us ! And who can forget the splendid view of Osaka which the Castle affords ! Below us and around us was a city of six hundred thousand inhabi- tants, — the Venice of Japan, from its closeness to the waters, and the Chicago of Japan, from its commercial enterprise. What a picture the rivers, canals, bridges, smoking factory- chimneys, the adjacent fields, and the encompassing moun- tains made on that April afternoon ! Inside of the Castle once lived the much beloved emperor whose picture is so 448 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. frequently seen in Japanese homes, the famous ruler who let his palace go without repairs in order that his poor people might have fuel enough to send through their chim- neys the smoke which told of comfort and good dinners within. And I shall not forget the visit to the great Jap- anese prison, with its four thousand inmates, two hundred and thirty of whom were women. The courteous and capa- ble warden accompanied us in our inspections. The ladies in our party could see the women, but not the men. My missionary companions and I were permitted to see every- thing, and certainly it was one of the best-kept and cleanest prisons in the world. The ventilation was admirable. The women were confined in wooden cages, and wore crushed strawberry or old rose gowns, thick and quilted ! They spin, wash, mend, etc., and, so far from looking like hardened crim- inals, or criminals at all, they helped to make the whole scene appear like a joke. We were told that no one ever broke out of this jail, although a Yankee prisoner could cut his way to freedom with a jack-knife in an hour. The prisoners are brought in, tied together, with baskets over their heads, so as not to show their faces on the street. Whenever we entered a room accompanied by the warden, a signal was given, and all the prisoners stopped work and bowed their heads to the floor, keeping them there in this posture of abject deference until the signal was given to lift themselves up again. Most of the crimes for which these people were incarcerated had to do with various forms of theft. On the whole, we were much pleased with what we saw of prison life in Japan, and we devoutly prayed that China, when she begins to imitate Western civilization, may introduce a little of Western humanity into her treatment of criminals. The old capital of Japan, Kyoto, a city of three hundred thousand inhabitants, surpasses all other Japanese cities in interest. We spent six most delightful days there, in the hos- pitable home of Reverend Mr. and Mrs. Porter. The rail- road ride from Osaka carried us through a region of exquisite beauty and great fertility. But the city itself, with its temples, JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 449 shops, and manufactories, where the finest Japanese art works are fashioned, diverted our minds, at least temporarily, from the serious amount of work which I undertook to do. Mr. Porter is one of the best equipped and most trusted mis- sionaries in Japan. It will be remembered that more than a year ago he rode on his bicycle over a cliff five hundred feet in height, and had an almost miraculous escape from death. I gave two lectures in the town hall, and had an opportunity of addressing many Buddhist priests, and the pleasure also of meeting the eloquent Mr. Hirai, who offered me a Japanese dinner, which I was unable to accept. Mr. Hirai, who spoke so powerfully at the World's Congresses, is now engaged in teaching children in Kyoto. On Sun- day I preached for the Japanese Presbyterian Church in the morning, and then at Dr. Davis's home delivered a ser- mon to the English-speaking attendants. In the evening I addressed an audience at one of the Kumai churches, where the Christians presented me with a book full of Japanese pictures. One evening at the home of Mrs. Porter I talked to the missionaries and others of my work in India, and I gave one lecture before the professors and students of the Doshisha University, of whose strange and checkered his- tory one hears so much in Japan. Mr. John R. Mott, the young evangelist who has been making a tour of the world, did excellent work at the Doshisha, and probably helped forward the movement for a change which will bring the University into some accord with Christian sentiment. One of the saddest experiences in the evangelization of Japan has been the persistent and successful effort of the Japanese Christians who have lost faith in evangehcal Christianity, to gain possession of the University and use it for ends which are abhorrent to the noble and benevolent American Chris- tians who have lavished their money upon the institution. It shows how undeveloped as yet is the Japanese moral sense, even of those who have become Christians, that this misuse of trust funds is so generally justified. It is believed, however, that a better day is coming ; and one cannot con- 29 45 O A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. verse with the Japanese Christian ministers and with the missionaries in Japan without being convinced that the ten- dency at present is toward a more positive Christianity. Outside of the Kumai churches there has been no general defection, and even they are returning to the faith. Every one who goes to Kyoto should witness the manu- facturing of cloisonnd, the most exquisite and wonderful work of that sort which is now done in any part of the world ; and of course American women will not fail to visit the great silk stores. Everybody must admire some features of Japanese civilization, and realize that in certain particu- lars the Japanese people are the most artistic in the world. I did not fall in love with Japanese temples, although they are a vast improvement upon the ugly and unclean shrines of India. We had a delightful morning visiting the new Buddhist temple, the costliest in Japan, which bears the name of the Higashi Hongwanji. The decorations of the chancel and shrine are gorgeous ; but the worshippers were not numer- ous, and the coins which were scattered on the mats were usually of the smallest size, the tenth of a sen. It was too cold to walk through this temple in stocking-feet, and ac- cordingly we went to a shop and purchased slippers, which were useful in our visit to the next great temple, the Nishi Hongwanji. Those who go to Kyoto must not fail to get the superb view from the Yaami Hotel on the steep hill- side, nor to visit the interesting shrine and the immense bell in this neighborhood, nor to see the colossal Diabutsu, Avhich is a big hollow mask of a thing, nor to vdsit the great Kuannon Temple, with thirty-three thousand three hundred and thirty-three bronze statues of the Goddess of Mercy. But time fails me to describe our visit to Nara, with its lovely park where the deer are so tame and the cryptomerias are so wonderful, and the Shinto Temple is so picturesquely situated. It was cherry-blossom time when we saw the old capital, and never shall I forget the magnificent cherry-tree which DAIBUTSU. JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 45 I we admired in the early evening, illuminated with electric lights and bonfires, near which the people had built booths, and where thousands had come to see the pink wonder. The finest of the cherry-trees have double blossoms, and all the famous trees are without fruit. But the admiration of the people for this floral marvel knows no limits, and all visitors become Japanese through beautiful sympathy. In Tokyo the display a week later in the parks was even more superb. In Kyoto, however, we had the pleasure of seeing the cherry-blossom dance, which lasted an hour. After re- moving our shoes, and entering the hall, we were served with tea and sweetmeats, and then went into the room where ten girls on each side played for us the drums and stringed instruments of the orchestra, while twenty others on each side filed in with cherry-blossoms on their dresses and in their hair and in their hands. The scenery was beautiful, the dance was simple posturing, and the whole scene seem.ed to be out of doors under a big cherry-tree. On Lake Bewa I spent a morning in the company of Reverend Zitsusen Ashitsu, one of the Buddhist priests who attended the Congress of Religions. Accompanied by Mr. Porter and six sons of missionaries, we rode by rail to Otsu, a little town where the attempt was made a few years ago on the life of the present Czar of Russia. Here we took jinrikishas around Lake Bewa and across the canal. The views of lake and mountain were picturesque and delightful in the extreme. We visited the famous pine-tree which spreads out over the ground for nearly two hundred feet, and then rode up to the Buddhist temple, where we inquired for the friend who had asked us to visit him. He had been waiting for us, and soon, clothed in his finest robes, he came out to meet us, and embraced me with genuine warmth. Holding my hand, he conducted us up the long path bordered with trees which led to his beautiful home, the outlook from which, over the placid lake and on toward the eastern mountains, is restful and lovely. Tea and sweets were served us, and chairs were brought in for 452 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. the whole company. Our friend desired to make us com- fortable, after the American fashion, and we were not re- quired to sit upon our toes on the mats. After we were seated, according to the forms of Japanese politeness, we began a succession of bows ; but soon, through my friend and interpreter, I was able to begin a connected conversa- tion with the humane and intelligent disciple of Gautama. The missionary boys were given photographs of the Colum- bian Exposition to look at, and our Buddhist host was evi- dently happy to bring before us as much of America as possible. We had a long exchange of views about many things, and I was particularly pleased when Ashitsu informed me that since 1893 the Buddhists of Japan had a more friendly feeling toward Christianity and its representatives. He insisted on our eating luncheon in his rooms ; but as we had promised the boys a picnic, he had to be content with our using his yard, where he and other priests waited upon us, contributing some Japanese viands to the food which we had brought with us. We found it difficult to tear ourselves away from the gentle and hospitable soul who remembered America with such loving interest. This fourteenth of April was to me one of the supreme days in my journey round the world. It was a happy fulfilment of hopes which I en- tertained for years. That evening we reached Nagoya on our road to Yoko- hama, and the next morning our hostess, Mrs. Buchanan, conducted us round the castle, where we saw the parade- ground and the soldiers drilhng, cavalry and infantry manoeu- vring, or firing at targets. They are said to be excellent soldiers ; tough, brave Htde fellows, able to endure a great deal, and to climb like cats. Let no nation underrate the fighting quahties and effectiveness of the Japanese. But they look very oddly on horseback, and their uniforms seem ugly, adding to the natural unpleasantness of the features of the Japanese men. It was eleven o'clock that night when our train carried us through the pouring rain into the station at Yokohama, where we have been entertained with JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 453 delightful hospitality by Reverend Mr. and Mrs. John L. Deering, Baptist missionaries, and by Reverend Mr. and Mrs. Henry Loomis. I made several addresses in Yokohama, took a ride round Mississippi Bay, and saw Treaty Point, but no Fuji as yet lifting his snow-white cone. Our six days in Tokyo were spent at the home of Reverend Mr. and Mrs. McNair, one of those homes which I deem points of light in Asia, more brilliant by reason of surrounding darkness or twilight. Here we met also Miss West, one of the most capable of missionaries. I shall not attempt to describe Tokyo, a city of interminable distances, flat and uninterest- ing in many parts of it, exceedingly beautiful in others, with cherry-trees and spacious grounds and gardens. We spent one morning at the University, and realized that Japan has captured from Germany, Great Britain, and America many of the intellectual elements of civilization. The Museums are large and interesting. The library is spacious ; the methods are those of the latest Western science. The most beautiful place in Tokyo is the famous Ueno Park, which we found full of people, gay with venders of toys and sweets, and with paths covered with "snow that never saw the sky." The cherry-trees were in their richest bloom, or slightly past it. The temples in the neighborhood of the Park were more thronged than any others I have seen in Japan. The most interesting day which I spent in Tokyo was at a reception given in the Botanical Gardens, where many men of many minds gave me cordial greeting, treating me to foods of many kinds. Christians, Buddhists, Shintoists, and Confucianists joined in a welcome which lasted for several hours. It was in a pavilion, or tea-house, and I was called upon to express my mind in regard to several religious questions. Reverend Mr. Yokoi, the newly elected president of Doshisha University, was there, and also Shi- bata, a high-priest of Shintoism, who attended the Parlia- ment in Chicago. After the reception we called, by invitation, on Count Inouy^, one of the leading Japanese 454 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. Statesmen, now out of power, and had a delightful conver sation with him, his daughter, and his son-in-law. They all speak English well, and have most charming manners. The Count is one of the foremost makers of modern Japan, and will doubtless come back to power again. He deprecated the idea of Japan wishing to go to war with anybody, and expressed the conviction that she could not afford to do it at present. Before leaving Tokyo on Thursday, the twenty- second of April, I addressed a large company, perhaps one hundred and fifty missionaries, in the Union Church; among them such well-known veterans as Dr. Greene. They did not appear like a discouraged or disheartened company of people, but quite otherwise. In the evening of that day I addressed a similar company of Christian work- ers in Mr. and Mrs. Deering's home in Yokohama. This was my last address before leaving for America. The next day was given to preparations for the long voy- age, although in the afternoon we took a lovely trip to Kamakura, where we saw the stateliest and finest of all the Buddhas. It is a majestic figure, symbolizing intellectual peace, nearly fifty feet high and nearly one hundred feet in circumference. The thumb is three feet around. The curls on the head are eight hundred and thirty in num- ber. The eyes are said to be of pure gold, and the silver boss in the centre of the forehead weighs thirty pounds avoirdupois. But more impressive and memorable than the sight of this Buddha were the views we had that day of Fujiyama. The sacred mount of Japan has a charm all its own. It has the beauty of symmetry and whiteness, of lonely and sovereign majesty. It seems like a special creation of the Almighty to dominate with its stately loveliness the loveliest of Eastern lands, and to fill the hearts of its peo- ple with proud and happy thoughts. It is not appropriate to compare it with the Himalayas, for they are a mighty range of snowy heights far away from the centre of populous India. Here is a peak which stands out alone and is visi- ble from all sides of Dai Nippon, as the Japanese call their JAPAN AND THE JAPANESE. 455 own land. I scarcely wonder that the people hold the mountain to be sacred, nor did I marvel that its glorious form is constantly reproduced in Japanese art. I took the vision of its beautiful summit as a prophecy of the time when this mountain of the gods shall be a mountain of the one true God, and look down upon a land whose people, Christianized, may contribute some of the finest and strongest forces toward the evangelization of Asia. CHAPTER XXXVIII. HOME COMING. T T is a long way in space and time from Yokohama, which ■^ we left on the twenty-fourth of April, to the island of Mackinac, in Northern Michigan, where my pilgrimage ended on the twenty-fifth of June. Quite a number of friends gave us a kindly send-off from that far Eastern port, the splendid gateway through which the tides of our Western civilization flowed in upon the Island Empire. I carried with me on board the ship " China " a copy of the " Japan Mail " of that day containing a valedictory address which I had sent out to Christian and non-Christian friends, a let- ter in which I took occasion to correct some wrong impres- sions which were formerly circulated in regard to the present strength of American Christianity. The ship was crowded with home-coming passengers, — missionaries from Burmah, China, Japan ; English ofificials returning to take part in the Victoria Diamond Jubilee ; the family of an American Consul ; members of Sir Robert Hart's Chinese Revenue Service ; merchants, travellers ; a German Admiral ; the courteous and very intelligent German Governor of the Marshall Islands ; and six hundred Chinese and four hun- dred Japanese workmen, bound for the Hawaiian Islands, the Nashville Centennial Celebration, and the ports of South America. After two days of rather dark and rough weather, the widest of oceans became delightfully smooth, and the warm air breathed through the constant sunshine. On Thursday, the twenty-ninth of April, we crossed the one hundred and eightieth meridian, and so the captain required HOME COMING. 457 US to live that day over again. One Thursday was spent in the Eastern, and the second in the Western Hemisphere, one Asiatic and the other American. The passengers were usually in a very happy mood, and contributed in various ways to the general entertainment, through music, ath- letics, recitations, lectures, or sermons. My contribution was a sermon on the second Sunday morning, followed by a lecture on Shakespeare on the first of May. At noon on May second, we passed Bird Island, a prominent and pic- turesque rocky point over eight hundred feet high. And on the third of May we awoke to find ourselves near a most beautiful coast, and soon we entered the harbor of Honolulu. Reverend Dr. Charles Hyde, at the head of im- portant educational institutions in the Hawaiian Islands, came aboard the ship, and after my former parishioner, Dr. Day, the Health Inspector, had given us a clean bill, we were permitted to land and to inspect the chief city of the tiny republic. Accompanied by Dr. Hyde, we visited nearly every sort of educational and philanthropic institution pro- vided for the peoples of four races who inhabit the islands. Like other visitors, we realized that we were in the para- dise of the Pacific. The constant factor, climate, is here a friend to every human enjoyment ; and some American ladies who had spent two months in the islands and accom- panied us aboard the "China," declared that neither in Southern France, California, nor Egypt had they ever passed so delightful a winter. Whoever visits Honolulu should see the Museum, which contains the finest collection to be found anywhere of objects illustrating the life of the Pacific islanders. In the evening of our only day in Honolulu, I delivered a lecture in the Union Church, probably the only church on the earth where Christian work is carried on every Sunday in five languages, — English, Hawaiian, Portu- guese, Japanese, and Chinese. On the next morning our kindly host. Dr. Hyde, accompanied us to the government building and several other institutions, and then we em- barked again on the " China." 458 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. We found in Honolulu more of America, more of its energy and spirit, than in any other community which I have seen in the World- Pilgrimage. If I were asked to name the place which I have seen in all the world where Christian civilization, as shown in general intelligence and morality and good-will among different races, in the abun- dance of schools, asylums, and churches, in general material prosperity, and in zealous devotion to the expansion of God's kingdom on earth, has reached its brightest manifes- tation, I should mention without a moment's hesitancy this tiny state in the Pacific, which Christian missions lifted out of savagery, and which, as it seems now probable, may soon be linked to the sisterhood of American commonwealths. I met several members of the Hawaiian government, and talked with quite a number of the leading citizens. Un- doubtedly the intelligence and morality of the community are strongly favorable to annexation. Of the strategic importance of the Hawaiian Islands, the key to the Northern Pacific Ocean, as the " London Times " has said, Americans are likely to learn something more in the near future. That recognized authority on naval warfare, Captain Mahan, has shown conclusively the imperative duty resting upon the United States of securing so important a factor in the defence of our coast line, and of protecting for all the future our rapidly growing interests in the Pacific world. It was a five days' voyage from Honolulu to the Golden Gate, which we entered on the tenth of May. In all the brilliant Orient I had seen nothing so grateful to my heart as the sight of my own country. The heart-hunger of the exile had been ours, notwithstanding all that we had expe- rienced of pleasure. In the Palace Hotel we received the warm greetings not only of San Francisco friends, but of many others far away whose letters waited to welcome us. The next afternoon I addressed the ministers of the city and Christian women interested in foreign missionary work, and by six o'clock in the evening we were on the ferry of the '' Overland Limited," and half an hour later were as HOME COMING. 459 comfortably settled in our "section" as if we had never travelled outside of America. Through gardens and wheat-fields, over snowy heights, across wide deserts, climb- ing mountains again, and then down over the long, long plains, for three days we sped eastward, beholding a land where all the people seemed to us prosperous, and where our eyes were delivered from the sights which had saddened them in the East. It was on the fifteenth of May that we arrived at Rockford, Illinois, where we had the joy of meet- ing again the little children who had bravely and sometimes anxiously awaited our return. After six weeks of lecturing and preaching in Chicago, and a visit to Smith College, in Massachusetts, where we met our older children, the long- broken household was finally reunited on this pleasantest of islands. Under one roof at last, we recall the marvellous way in which we have been led. There is much talk of Europe and Egypt, of India and Japan, and of a thousand strange experiences. I am thankful that the work which took me from my home and country has been finished, and that once more I can feel myself an inhabitant as well as a citizen of America. Looking out on the - Straits of Mackinac from this fairest of Northern isles, I have leisure, while the winds are fanning the joyous leaves and the peewee is whistling his sweetly plaintive note, to five over the memorable days of the now completed World- Pilgrimage. The feeling of be- ing at home is very strong and pleasant, not only because the household has been reunited, but also for the reason that the land of the pine is, on the whole, more congenial than the palmy plains of the Orient. When Sindbad had finished an adventurous voyage, he usually resolved to re- main thereafter in Bagdad, — a resolution, happily for us, made only to be broken. But the only voyages which I now contemplate are those of memory and imagination, and I find that all my recollections are bathed and steeped in devout and loving gratitude to Him to whom belongeth the sea and whose hand formed the dry land. 460 A WORLD-PILGBIMAGE. Many pictures pass before my vision, many voices come to my hearing, as I circumnavigate the globe once more. What leagues of ocean, placid as these waters, or tossed into tumbling crags of sapphire and emerald, smoothed with warm winds from tropic isles or chilled by blasts from rocky and Arctic shores, stretch on and on before my inner eye ! What dear and loving faces gather around us at the tearful hour of separation or the glad dawn of home- coming ! Numberless are the accents of kindness that float from many lands through these whispering leaves. And what a multitude of strange faces throng around this cottage, — faces first seen on the decks of many ships, in the halls of Paris or Cairo, or at the gates of far Eastern cities ! Once more the muezzin calls to prayer from the minarets of Delhi, and I hear again the Buddhist drums in the shrines of Ceylon and Japan. The waters of many rivers flash and murmur by. I see again the Rhine and the Weser, the Thames and the Tiber, the tvvinkhng and many-colored lights along the Seine and the willows that shade the Jordan, the palms that lift themselves on either bank of the Nile, the strange boats on the Yang-tse, the pil- grims and bathers in the waters of the Ganges, and the peer- less white dome reflected in the loving bosom of the Jumna. And what are these heights that rise out of the landscapes of memory? Men call them the Hartz and the Apennines, Sinai and Fujiyama, the Mountains of Moab, Adam's Peak, Kinchinjunga. " They are but the raised letters of the alphabet of infinity, whereby we, poor blind children of men, spell out the great name of God." And around the habitations of men, some little dorf in Germany, some prosperous city of England, Italy, or Japan, or some immemorial village of India, with unwritten laws and cus- toms more ancient than the statutes of Manu or Moses, or about some planter's home in the neighborhood of Kandy or Darjeeling, what fields of wheat and tea and millet, or vivid rice or tasselled corn, stretch on and on before the gaze of memory 1 Sitting on this bench four years ago, HOME COMING. 46 1 I meditated and wrote the address of welcome which I delivered before the representatives of twelve hundred milhons gathered at the World's Parliament of Religions. The thought and purposes embodied in that address and in that gathering broke the strong ties which held ,me to church and city and sent me as a pilgrim around the world. And now, sitting here again, looking at the same sparkling waters and shaded by the same fragrant boughs, the great world of religion, with its many-costumed representatives, rises before me. I hear the beautiful choirs in English cathedrals ; I lift up my eyes to Giotto's Tower in Florence, and see again the fragments of the Parthenon ; I hear the dervishes in their wild and woful chants ; I walk by the pyramids, enter the sacred tombs of Memphis, meditate once more on the Mount of Olives, stand beneath the domes of churches which rebuke and confound in their majesty all earthly pride ; converse with scholars in Oxford or Benares ; watch the solemn idolaters in the bat-infested temple of Madura or the lighter-hearted pilgrims who in Japan call upon Amida- Buddha ; or lift up my voice in Madras or Tokyo in the name of the Universal Man and Saviour, and thank God that I have learned to love and pity the children of many faiths, and to believe that the less perfect may be prophecies of that fulness of truth and grace which are found in the Son of God. The human world, as the traveller remembers it, is one of bewildering variety. I think now of clothes as well as of faces, of foods and drinks as well as of forms and colors, of houses as well as of national and religious distinctions, ambitions, and interests. And yet, underneath these varie- ties what unities are discovered ; what common needs, fears, hopes, and aspirations ! Humanity, whether it is found among the Chinese coolies on the Bund in Shanghai or the Chowringee Road in Calcutta, the Champs Elys^es or the Unter den Linden, whether it walks the Strand or the Corso, the Via Dolorosa of Jerusalem or the Galata Bridge of Constantinople, possesses an essential oneness 462 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. which augmenting numbers of people are coming to recog- nize. I feel the solidarity of mankind as never before. Distant peoples do not seem so distant, either in space or in character. As I know that , I can go all the way by water from this island to the island of Sicily or Ceylon, so my heart, when true to its higher instincts, reaches out in a sympathy unbroken by diverse creeds and conditions to the plague-smitten sufferers in Bombay, the starving children in Jubbelpore, and to the millions bound by supersti- tions in Africa and China. Every Board of Trade recog- nizes a community of interests the world over ; every student of history and poUtical economy perceives some interdependence among nations. Hundreds of travellers in the East and Far East have seen how much Great Britain has done to bring the Oriental nations, through trade and language, into touch with the Western world. But besides all this, and more than all this, I have come to feel the growing universalism of Christianity, and the rapid acceptance by multitudes in Asia of the truths of Divine fatherhood and human fraternity. The time has passed by for provincialism of thought and provincialism of feeling. The Victorian era marks a vast enlargement of the realm of human sympathy, even if many of those who through commerce, war, or science have widened man's moral and intellectual realm appear themselves both hard and narrow. Like others from the beginning of time, they are building better than they know. The missionary is sowing the furrows in the Orient, upturned by the ploughshare of wicked war. The commercial and political ambitions and rivalries of Russia and England, of France and Germany, of Japan and China, are helping to break up the sluggish- ness and seclusion of the East, and both the Orient and the Occident share in that widening of thought which comes with the process of the suns. I have returned home with an increasing sense of the value of America in the evangelization of Asia. Emerged at last from the backwoods of theology, having cleared her HOME COMING. 463 skirts from the stain of slavery, delivered with wonderful rapidity from provincialism of spirit in the last thirty years of commercial and intellectual expansion, instructed by that religion which has moulded her best life to spread its benign influences everywhere, America is coming to be regarded as a missionary force of the highest quality and greatest power. In the whole course of my travel from Constantinople to Honolulu I felt the presence and benefi- cent influence of the men and women who represent Ameri- can Christianity. Other Christian nations in the East stand for something else than unselfish philanthropy. The Brit- ish occupation of India, while an incalculable blessing to that country, has awakened much besides gratitude in the Hindu heart. English missionaries sometimes confess their inability to win the affections of those to whose up- lifting they have gladly given their lives. They frequently said to me, " You Americans have an advantage over us." Immense and increasing are the responsibilities resting upon the Christians in America to enter vigorously into the Christian conquest of Asia. I saw and learned nothing to justify the sweeping criti- cism that missions are doing more harm than good in China. And while not all missionaries are wise, and Christian work in the Orient reflects the imperfections of the churches in the Occident, I have returned home with a deeper conviction that our Christian representatives in Asia stand for that intellectual and moral force and spiritual vitahty which seem to have passed out of the much-praised Eastern faiths. Still, the divisions of Christendom, the cruel and revengeful belligerency of European nations, and the average character of the European populations in the Orient are fearful hindrances to the rapid spread of the Gospel. One cannot praise very highly the Anglo-Indian character, especially as it displays itself in the port-cities of Asia. The English are the great civilizers, but what crimes and miserable blunders have characterized their occupation of India ! Perhaps no other nation would have 464 ^ WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. done so well, and one shudders at the calamities which would inevitably follow the English withdrawal from India. An English novehst describes her people as one " that lives to make mistakes and dies to retrieve them." A wiser and less selfish policy must increasingly characterize Great Britain's dominion in the Orient, if the British Empire is to justify fully Mr. Curzon's eulogy of it as, " under Provi- dence, the greatest instrument for good the world has seen." I do not undervalue that empire, and a voyage around the world does not lessen one's sense of England's importance and of the general beneficence of her rule. In my memories of our finished journey I can scarcely recall a half-score disagreeable experiences. How wide and beautiful is the domain of kindness, and what favor- ing Providences marked our circuit of the globe ! In eighty-four days of sea-travel we never knew a moment's sickness ; in all my land journeyings I never missed a train or an appointment. How marvellous have been the tri- umphs of man over the forces of Nature 1 The steamship appears to me a more wonderful achievement to-day than when I set sail from New York. The international postal system is a potent and astonishing force in unitizing peoples as well as in adding to the comforts of travel. And what prodigious things man has already wrought ! Think of India covered with railroads, climbing her mountains and bind- ing together her cities ! Think of the cathedrals, mosques, and temples which the instinct of worship has reared, of the tunnels and bridges and aqueducts, the quays and factories and Government Houses, the hospitals, universities, the law-courts, the forts, the armies, the battleships, the banks and boulevards, the vv'ide-extended fields and orchards and gardens, and all the other facts and material achievements which make up at least the external forms of civilization ! Think of the Sacred Books of the East, among the greatest monuments of the past ! Think of the Chris- tian missionary and educational forces, with their schools, dispensaries, churches, printing-presses, vernacular litera- HOME COMING. 465 tures, and all their wide -reaching plans for the conquest of a continent, though the campaign may last a thousand years ! Think of the love, hope, energy, patience, self-sacrifice, faith, and far-reaching wisdom which, notwithstanding all the weaknesses, sins, and pathetic sufferings of earth's millions, characterize so much of human life ! Through Christianity and its conquests the law of progress has become the law of the race. Men are brothers, and are coming to believe it. God's fatherhood is the sky over- arching all, and men are coming to see it. The race is not doomed. Each new day is the best day of history. The eyes of men are more and more turned to the teaching and person and kingdom of Jesus Christ. The twentieth cen- tury will be more Christian than the nineteenth. Through wars, upheavals, disasters, and temporary reverses, the moral elements are coming to the front. Religion is yet to exercise a far more humanizing and unifying influence over discordant peoples. May those who a few years hence in the French Capital may meet together as worshippers of God and lovers of men, be given courage and v/isdom to speak forth boldly for all the highest things of the spirit which make for peace, purity, mutual trust, expanding knowledge, and broad and cosmopohtan sympathy ! May God give a multitude of men a world- embracing charity and a world-conquering faith ! Then the divine event toward which creation moves, may not be so far off. Then nations may abandon the infamy of war, and the whole round world, which Faith now sees bound securely to the loving feet of God, may enter upon an age of brotherhood and of peace. It is the sea which marries the continents, and as with thoughts of the sea my journey began, so with dreams of the sea these records end. Here in the heart of America, on this green isle, round which once swarmed the painted canoes of savages and the fur-laden barks of voyageurs, on this restful day brimmed with sunshine, memory, love, and imagination carry my spirit away over the wide and ancient 30 466 A WORLD-PILGRIMAGE. main around whose coasts dwell the nations, over whose surface by all the watery paths a thousand steamers are now straining shoreward, — the sea which remains man's ever- lasting friend and his best symbol of eternity. " Hence in a season of calm weather, Though inland far we be, Our souls have sight of that immortal sea Which brought us hither. Can in a moment travel thither, And see the children sport upon the shore And hear the mighty waters roaring evermore." INDEX. INDEX. Abydos, 238. Acropolis, 232-233, 236. Acrostic Sonnet, 40S. Adams, Samuel, 32. Aden, 320, 321. Adolphus, Gustavus, 136, 138. Ad5-ar, 403. Agra, 3S3-388 ; fort, 385 ; Taj Mahal, 3S5-388. Ahmednagar, 394 ; missions in, 394, 395 ; baptism in, 395. Ajmere, 391. Akbar, Mogul Emperor, 370, 383 ; Congress, 383 ; tomb, 384. Albani Kirche, 29, 44. Alexandria, 279-281; influences from, 280 ; Greek patriarch of, 312-313. Allahabad, 327. Amber, 390-391. Ameer Ali, Honorable Justice, con- versation with, 345 ; decision of, 356. America, ignorance about, 105-106. American, athletics, 105 ; baseball, 106; breakfast, 37; celebration of Fourth of July, 103-109; children educated abroad, 95 ; citizen, first interest of, 36 ; college and university contrasted with German university, 86-88, 92 ; colony of Gottingen, 40, 41, 103, 104, 162 ; eagle, 107 ; do., story of, 108 ; election, 247 ; fleet, 247 ; football, 90 ; interest in Wilhelmshohe, 102; literature known by French ladies, 58 ; patri- otism abroad, 105 ; popular tunes, 106; soldiers, 105 ; stories, 58 ; stu- dent, 86, 87 ; teeth, 37 ; travellers in Europe, 41 ; women on bicy- cles, 43. America's, influence in Missions, 462- 463 ; place, 63. Americans, at German Universities, 92, 95 ; at Saratoga and Newport, 119; duty, loS ; lacking in culture, 115; living abroad, 97; politics, 115; popular in Gottingen, 39; re- garded as oddities, 40. Amritsar, 381-382. Amsterdam, 33. Angelo, Michael, 21 1-2 12 ; " Fettered Slaves " of, 60. Areopagus, 234. Armenia, 55. Armenian, meeting, 178, 179; Patri- arch, 274. Arminius, 33. Arnold, Matthew, 26, Art, Dutch, 97, 99. Ashitsu, Reverend Zitsusen, visit to, 451-452, Asia, conquests of Gospel in, 54. Asoka, pillar of, 328. Assyut, college at, 307. Athens, 227-237; Acropolis, 232-236; national museum, 230 ; Parthenon, 233 ; picturesque scenes, 229. Athletics in German universities, 91. Atlantic modern steamship, 11. Augusta, Empress, 154. Aurangzeb, Mogul Emperor, 32S ; mosque of, 328-329. 470 INDEX. B. Bach, Sebastian, Passion music, 126 ; statue, 126. Bancroft, 27, 31. Bangalore, 39S ; reception in, 398-399. Banurji, K. C, 352-353. Baron de Schickler, 38, 70, 72. Barton, Clara, 244. Bebra, 126. Beirut, Dr. Van Dyck of, 311. Beisskatze, 116. Benares, bathers in, 333-334 ; bathing Ghats, 331 ; Buddha in, 340 ; burn- ing Ghats, 334; busy days in, 331 ; college of, 336 ; cow temple, 335 ; golden temple, 335 ; holy man of, 340; journey to, 328-341; London Mission, 329 ; monkey temple, 335 ; opium of, 433 ; Queen's College, 338; scenes in, 339; second saint in, 337; Well of Knowledge, 339. Beraud's " La Pouss6," 65, 66. Berkshires, no. Berlin, cabs, 151 ; compared with Chicago, 148; exposition, 152; gal- leries, 153-154; great names of, 150; Hasenheide, 151; Hohenzol- lern Museum, 153; Kunstaustel- lung, 152, 153; Old Palace, 154; omnipresent soldier, 149 ; Parlia- ment House, 151 ; police, 148; Se- dan Day, 149; streets, 150, 151; synagogue, 154; taxometer, 151; University, 150; Unter den Lin- den, 149. Berthelot, M., 67, 68. Bethany, 266, 267. Bethlehem, 275-27S. Bicycles, 43. Bismarck, at Gottingen, 28 ; limita- tions, 166; speech in the Reichstag, 120; to future generations, 34; tower, 28, 33. Bliss, Dr., excavations of, 273. Blois, 75-Si. Bodethal, 118. Boettiger, 145. Bombay, American Mission in, 324- 325; garlands in, 324; plague in, 324; reception in, 325; Victoria Station, 325, 326; welcome at, 324. Bonet-Maury, Professor G., 51, 73. Bourgeois, M., 57. Bose, Miss, 353. Bosporus, 239. Boston, library, frescos for, 56; Oc- tet, 137; Old State House of, 33; walk across the Common, 30. Bourget, Paul, 69. Brahman, converted, 330. Bremen, 21, 22, 31, 163; Rathskel- ler, 163. Bremerhaven, 19, 21, 98. Bremke, 103. Bremker Thai, 104, 106. British Medical Jewish Mission, 274. Brocken, i 19-123. Browning, 98 ; Elizabeth, 205 ; Hall, 180, 181. Brunetiere, 67. Brusttuch, 115. Bryan, 114. Bryce, Professor James, 19, 114. Buddha in Benares, 340. Buddhism, High Priest of, 428. Buddhism in Darjeeling, 365. Burdett-Coutts, Baroness, 68, 69. Burgberg, 120. Biirger, 93. Burg Grona, 31, 33, 88. Byron, 229, 232, 23S. Cable, George W., 58. Caesar, Julius, 17. Caine, W. S., 329, 334, 397, Cairo, 282-2S6, 299-315 ; Greek Ba- silica, 305 ; howling dervishes, 302 ; Moslem University, 302-305 ; street pictures, 300. Calame, 139. Calcutta, Beadon Square, 355 ; begin- nings of, 342 ; Bethune College for ■women, 344, 353, 354 ; Black Hole of, 347 ; enlargem.ent of, 343 ; im- pression regarding Lectureship, 349 ; Jain temples, 347 ; Kali Ghat, 347 ; kindnesses received in, 348-349; Principal Morrison of, 347, 351 ; reception by Missionary Conference of, 33S; reception in, 344; recep- INDEX. 471 tion, Maharajah's, 349-351 ; scenes in, 346-347; St. Andrew's Church, 359- Cambridge, 1S5-187. Canning, George, 107. Canossa, 120. Canterbury, Cathedral of, 187. Cantonments, English, 370. Capri, 220. Carlyle, 154. Carnot, Hall of, 56. Carpenter, J. Estlin, iSi, 182, 1S5. Cascades at Wilhelmshohe, loi. Cassel, 97-103. Catherine de Medicis, 80-81. Catholic Church in Italy, 216. Cawnpore, juggler in, 368; massacre at, 367-36S ; memorial church, 368. Cecil, Hotel, 177. Cenchrea, 226. " Cephalonia," 223-224. Ceylon, 417-430. Chamberlain, Dr. Jacob, 399. Chambord,-78, 79. Charbonnel, Abbe, 73. Charlemagne, 29, 34, 54. Charles v., 78,82. Charlottenburg, 154. Chartres, 191-197; Black Virgin of, 192 ; pilgrims to, 193. Charybdis, 223. Chatterjea, B. L., 353. Cherith brook, 268. Chicago, 22, 41 ; compared with Ber- lin, 14S-150; University, 150. China, coasts of, 431-441 ; native pop- ulation of, 433; opium traffic of, 436- "China," steamship, 456. Chinese representative, 62. "Christ in the Temple," 144; and the "rich young ruler," 144. Christian Endeavor, conventions of, 47; meeting, 377. Christian Literature Society, 425. Church of the Nativity, 276. Clark, Dr. Francis E., 191, 370, 373, yn, 404- Clausthal, 113. Clough, Arthur H., 205. Coimbatore, 409. Coleridge, 27, no, 112 Coligni, 54. Cologne Cathedral, 49-50, 58. Colombo, 418-419 ; lectures, 427 ; missionary conference of, 423. Columbian Exposition, 49. Comparative Theology, study of, 427. Constantinople, 239-244 ; massacres, 241 ; picturesque scenes, 240. Cook, Joseph, 398. Cook, Thomas, 222, 315. Coolies, Chinese, 437. Coptic University, 310. Corinth Canal, 225-226. Cotta, Frau Ursula, 131. Cranach, Lucas, 130, 133. Croiset, Professor, 56. Cromer, Lord, 312. Crusaders, 263. Cuba, 107. Custom House, German, 21. Cyril, Patriarch, 310, D. Dagnan-Bouveret's "Last Supper," 65. Dardanelles, 238. Darjeeling, 362-365. David's Tomb, 271. Dead Sea, 269, Deal, 17. Declaration of Independence, 103, 104. Decorations during journey, 254. Delhi, 370-375 ; Asoka's pillar, 374; Jumna Musjid, 371, 373 ; Kohinoor, 372 ; Kutub Mmar, 374-375 ; Pearl Mosque, 371. Depew, Chauncey M., 58. Deschamps, Louis, 66. Desjardins, Arthur, 61, 62. Dharmapala, 68, 182, 183, 219; home of, 428. Douy, Gerard, 99. Dover, 174. Doyle, Conan, 82. Dresden, 139-146; Bruhl Terrace, 140; gallery, 142-143; Green Vaults, 141 ; opera, 140; pension, 139; Sistine Madonna, 140, 141, 142, 143 ; tram- 472 INDEX. way system, 140; ware, 145; Zwinger, 142. Duelling in German universities, 88- 90. E. Easter bonfires, 34. Eddy, Clarence, 82. Eddystone, 17. Education of American children abroad, 95. Egypt, 279-316 ; compared with Pal- estine, 2S2 ; flies in, 301 ; Khedive, 312; Patriarch of, 310; weather of, 314- Egyptian railway stations, 231. Eisenach, 126-131. El Aksa, 262, 264. Elbe, 33. Eleusis, 228, 230, 231. Elisha's Fountain, 270, 271. Ely, Cathedral of, 187. Emerson, 27, 58, 103. Emperor of Germany, 54, loi, 127, Empress Josephine, 52, 82. England, 174-189; first sight of, 17. England's Asiatic policy, 436. England's love to America, iS, 19. English, advantage in educating chil- dren abroad, 95; novelties in the Salon catalogue, 64, 65. Ephesus, 248. Equatorial heat, 430. Erfurt, 132. Europe, an armed camp, 53, 197; war in, 54. Es Seyd El-Bakri, 314. Everett, 27, 31. Ewald, 93. Ewing, Dr. J. C. R., 376, 378. F. Fairbairn, Principal, 182. Famine in India, 326. Farrar, Dean, 1S7, 188. Fichte, 13S. Florence, art galleries, 205-209 ; cathe- dral, 206 ; churches, 208 ; graves, 205 ; journey to, 203. Fontan^s, Reverend Ernest, 68, 74. Football versus dueUing, 90. Foreman College, spirit of, 379, 380. Foreman, Dr., 378-379. Fourth of July in Gottingen, 103-109. France, a little tour in, 75-83 ; Insti- tute of, 60; University of, 55, 57. Francis I., 78, So. Franco-Scottish Society, meeting of, 55, 56, 57- Frankfort, 31, 39. Frederick, Barbarossa, 118, 128, 129; Second, 98; the Great, 154; the Wise, 130; William III, 154. Fremantle, Dean, 185. French, army, 53 ; knowledge of Amer- ican literature, 58; martial airs, 57; outdoor enjoyment, 52 ; renaissance, 80 ; revolution, 78 ; school system, 53 ; students, company of, 63. Fujiyama, 454-455. Fulda, 98. Fuller, Henry B., 41. Galata Bridge, 239. Ganges, bathing in, 332 ; beggars of, 334 ; pilgrims to, 328. Geismar, Thor, 29. George III., 98. Georgia, Augusta University, 93. Gerhardt, Paul, hymn by, 45. German, advantages for Americans, 95 ; Americans, 20 ; beds, 38 ; bills, 160-161 ; capital, 14S-155 ; care of forest land, iii ; church life, 171; classics, 137; concert garden, 40; custom house, 21 ; deference to offi- cial rank, 39 ; distaste for agitation, 167 ; duelling customs, 88 ; empire, 118; do., Bismarck chief builder of, 28; emperor, 54, 127; empress, 170; faith, 117; food, 37-38; gym- nasium, 86; hymns, 45, 47; igno- rance of America, 105-106; Ka- nonenschlager, 106; language, 159- 160 ; life, first impressions of, 36- 48 ; do., picturesqueness of, 42 ; meals, 37, 38 ; men superior beings, 43 ; paternal government, 165 ; peas- INDEX, 473 ant women, 38; preaching, 172; professor, 92, 93, 95, 96; do., invincible energy of, 28-85 > ''^''" ways, 125-126; schools, 29; scep- tical scholarship, 95 ; servants, 20, 38 ; service, 38 ; soldiers, 29, 41, 42, 46 ; stoves, 38 ; student compared with American, 92 ; students, 86, 87 ; trains, 21; treatment of Heine, 113; universities, 84-96 ; use of dogs, 43 ; virtue of cleanliness, 37 ; women, 38, 169-171. Germans, curiosity of, 43 ; economy of, 39 ; national beverage of, 41 ; po- liteness of, 42 ; scarred faces, 42 ; sentimentalism of, 16 ; street cus- toms of, 42, 43. Germany, America's teacher, 169 ; a naval power, 13 ; government of, 95; in classic, 125-148; pohtical development of, 168 ; unification of, 5°-. Gervinus, 93. Ghizeh Museum, 283-285. Goethe, II2-, 122, 133, 135, 136, 137; busts, 135 ; " Hermann and Doro- thea," 138 ; homes, 134-137 ; room, '33- Gordon, General, 258. Goshen, land of, 316. Goslar, 11 3-1 18. Gdttingen, 24-48, 103-109, 156-163; Albani Kirche, 29, 44 ; auditorium of, 31; besieged by Tilly, 98, 157; bicycles in, 43 ; Bismarck at, 28 ; botanical gardens, 29 ; cafe national of, 37 ; Career, 156; dailies of, 37 ; early history of, 32 ; Fourth of July celebration in, 103-109; great Americans in, 27-28 ; great men of, 93-94 ; Heine's description of, 27 ; horses of, 39 ; Jacobi Kirche, 32; Johannis Kirche, 32; library, 92, 159 ; museum of antiquities, 156 ; music in, 40; neighboring castles, 157-158; Rathhaus of, 33,42; Re- formirte Kirche of, 44 ; Stadt Park of, 40, 41 ; student societies, 92 ; the wall of, 25 ; University of, 84-96 ; valorous burghers of, 33. Grant Bey, Dr., 299. Greek, discussion of, 56. Grimm, Jacob, 93, 98. Grimm, VVilhelm, 98. Guise, Grand Duke of, 81. H. Hals, Frans, 99. Hamelin, 98. Hanotaux, M., 67. Hanover, 31, -!,•] -^ Province of, 36 ; Re- formed Church of, 44. Hart, J. M., 25. Hartz, 22, 28, 31, 32, 39; canaries, 121; charm, no; club, in; moun- tains, 110-124; poets, 112; val- leys, 118. Harzburg, 118, 119. Haskell, Mrs., 359, 429. Havel, 12, 20, 154. Hawaiian Islands, 457-458; condi- tion of, 458. Hegel, 1 38. Heidelberg, duelling at, 88. Heine, 26, 27, 75, 112, 113, 115, 116, 118, 119, 123. " Helen's Babies," 40. Henry I., 25. Henry HI., Si. Henry IV., 117, 120. Henry of Navarre, 80. Hercules, Farnese, loi, 102. Herder, 132 ; room, 134. Hermann, 33. Hessen, Elector of, loi. Heyne, Professor, 93. Higginson, 58. Hofmann, 143, 144. Holland, 19, 28, 56. Holmes, 27. Holy Fire, 259. Holy Land, fertility, 267 ; first sight of, 252. Holy Roman Empire, 33, 114. Hong Kong, 435-439; dampness of, 43S. Honolulu, 457-458; Christian work in, 457. Horselberg, 130. Hosanna Road, 266. Hotel de Ville of Paris, 63. Huguenot Library, 70. Hume, Robert A., D.D., 394. 474 INDEX. Ilsenburg, 113, 118. Use thai, 123. Immortality, Egyptian belief in, 298. Impressionists in Paris salons, 66. India, 323-41 S; domestic arrange- ments, 348 ; famine, first sight of, 326, 372-373; farewell to, 417-418; first view of, 323 ; missions in, 352; picturesque colors in, 327 ; railways, 375-376; servants, 325; temple immoralities, 354. India Lectureship, 73 ; in Calcutta, 349; in Colombo, 427; in Lahore, 381; in Madras, 406-407; value of, 423-425. Indian, National congress, 344, 345, 346; people's grievances, 346. Indore, 391-394; Canadian Presby- terian Mission, 392; elephant ride in, 393; Maharajah of, 393; opium trade in, 392. Inland Sea, 44T. Inouye, Count, 453-454. Ireland, Archbishop, 69. Isle, Princess, story of, 123. Ismailiya, 316. Italy, 198-223; beggars of, 222; en- trance to, 200; great men of, 199; importance of, 198; Roman Catho- lic Church in, 216. J- Jacob blessing the children of Joseph, 100. Jacobi Kirche, 32. James II., tomb of, 52. James, Henry, 75, 76. Japan, 441-455 ; Joseph Cook in, 444 ; passports in, 445 ; " So- dan," 445. Japanese representatives, 62. Jeanne d'Arc, 57, 81. Jena, 39, 133, 137; battlefield of, 13S ; duelling at, 88; great men of, 138. Jericho, 266, 26S. Jerusalem, 252-262 ; changes, 254 ; Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 256, 260; Dome of the Rock, 263, 264; excavations, 265 ; girls' school, 261 ; increase in population, 254; Jewish temples, 262 ; missionary work in, 255; money, 256; New Calvary, 258; spurious relics, 260; street scenes, 256-257; Via Dolorosa, 260. Jerusalem Chamber, iSo. Jews' wailing-place, 271-272. Jeypore, 3S9-391 ; description of, 389; Hall of Winds, 390 ; prime minister of, 389. Jinrikishas, 447. Johannis Kirche, 32. John the Baptist's birthplace, 273. Johnson, Samuel, 18, iii. Jones, J. P., D.D., 414. Joppa, 252. Jordaens, 99. Jordan, fords of, 270. Jowett, Professor, 185. K. Kaaba, the, 319. Kahn, Zadoc, 58, 72. Kamakura, 454. Kandy, Buddhist temple of, 420 ; journey to, 418-420. Keats, 214. Khedive, 314. Kinchinjunga, 364. Kingsley against Newman, 1S3. Kipling, Rudyard, 445. Klein, Abbe F61ix, 69. Klein, Professor, 93. Kobe, 442-447; Daibutsu of, 443; lecture in, 443. Kuch Behar, Maharani of, 357. Kultus minister, 30, 84. Kyoto, 44S-45 1 ; cherry blossoms of, 451; cloisonne of, 450; Daibutsu of, 450; new Buddhist temple in, 450. Lahore, 376-3S1 : boys' school in, 3S0; lecture in, 3S1. INDEX. 475 Landor, Walter S., 205. Larned, Walter, 79. Leine, 28, 32, 33. Leipsic, battle, 138; book trade, 138; buildings, 138. Leonardo de Vinci, 202-203. Leroy-Beaulieu, 61, 71, 73. Lewis tlie Springer, 126. Leyden, 33. Lily Cottage, 357,358. Liszt, 129, 134. Lodiana, 376, 377. " Lohengrin," first heard, 134, Loire, ']'j. London, 176-181; lodgings, 177; na- tional portrait gallery, 179; omni- buses, 176, 177. Longfellow, 27. Lotze, 28. Louis XII., 79, So. Louis XIV., 78. Louise, Queen, 154. Louvre, 55, 60. Lowell, 19, 27, hi; "Cathedral," 49, 191, 197. Lucknow, residency, 366 ; siege of, 367. Luther, Martin, 126, 137, 146; as Junker Georg, 130, 131 ; " Ein' feste Burg," 127; house, 147; monument, 131; room, 129. Lydda, 252. M. Macdonald, Reverend Dr., 341, 355; address of, 351. Mackenzie, Sir Alexander, conversa- tion with, 344. Mackichan, Principal, 396. Mackinac Island, 121, 459. Madonna in Louvre, 60. Madras, Hindu chairman in, 405-406; printing lectures in, 406 ; reception in, 405,407; religious procession in, 404; welcome to, 402, 403-407. Madura, 414-416; garlands of, 414. Magenta, battlefield, 201. Mahmudiyeh Canal, 280. Malabar coast, 410; fashions of, 413, 414. Malmaison, 52. Mansard, 80. Mareotis Lake, 281. Mariette Bay, 296, 297. Marina, 403. Marutee, farewell to, 428, 429. McAll Mission, 54. McKinley, 114, 247, 248. Meaux, Vicomte de, 52, 71. Mediterranean, 223-224. Meissen, 144; Schloss, 144. Melanchthon, 133, 146. Memphis, 293, 294. Mera, tomb of, 294. Mesolonghi, 224. Messageries steamers, passengers on, 321, 322. Mexican sailors, 108. " Midnight Sun," departure from, 220, 279. Milan, Cathedr-al of, 201-202; art gallery, 203. Miller, Dr. William, 407. Millet, 76. Minnesingers, 126, 129, 131. Missions, American, in Bombay, 324- 325; do., in Cairo, 306-309; Arcot, 399; Ben Oliel, 274; British Medical, Jewish, 274; Canadian Presbyterian in Indore, 392 ; Christian impor- tance of, 426-427; Church, in Tin- nevelly, 415; in Ahmednagar, 394- 395; in India, 352; in Jerusalem, 255; London, Benares, 329; Pasa- mulai American, 415 ; Presbyterian, in Lodiana, 376-377. Mohammed, 264. Mohammed All, 2S0. Mohammedanism, birthplace of, 318; Turkish, 243. Moliere's, " Bourgeois Gentilhomme," Mont Cenis tunnel, 198. Montefiore, Sir Moses, 255. Moriah, Mount, 262. Moslem University in Cairo, 303-305. Motley, 25, 28, 29. Mott, John R., 449. Mozoomdar, P. C, 341, 357; Mrs., 354,357- Miiller, Professor F. Max, 61, iSi, 1S2, 183, 184, 185. 476 INDEX. Miiller, Wilhelm, 184, Miinden, 98. Musee Guimet, 70. Music at sea, 12, 13. N. Nagoya, 452. Nantes, •]']. Naples, 218-220; aquarium of, 21S- 2ig; journey thitlier, 218 ; wedding of Prince of, 214-216. Napoleon, 54, 64, 79, 98, 99, 113, 114, 136, 138' 139- Napoleonic wars, 129. Napoleon III., loi, 102. Nara, 450. Nawara Eliya, 423, 427. "Natal," 319. Naval battles, 224. Nernst, Professor, 86. Newman, controversy with Kingsley, 183. Nicolausberg, Church of, 34. Nile, 290-294; compared with other rivers, 291-292 ; Moses on, 291 ; uniqueness of, 292-293. Nilometer, 290. North German Lloyd Line, 12, 16. Notre Dame, 63. Nouri, Prince, 299-300, 410. Nuremberg, 129. O. Oken, 138. Oker, 119. Okerthal, 118. Olcott, Colonel, speech, 408-409. Old World, 30. Olympic games, 232. Omar Mosque, 262, 263. Orleans, 76. Orth, Professor, 88. Osaka, 446; prison in, 448; reception at, 447. Ostade, 99. Osterode, 113. Otho the Great, 31. Oxford, 26, 181-185. P. Pacific, voyage on, 456. Papin, Denis, 79. Paris, 49-74, 82-83 ; American Chapel in, 69; Americans who loll about, 97; beauty of, 51; Czar's visit to, 190 ; decorations of, 190 ; disfig- urement of, 51; English signs in, 53 ; Exposition of, in 1900, 52 ; Hotel de Ville, 63, 80; Huguenot Library, 70 ; is not France, 75 ; memories of, 54 ; more cosmopoli- tan, 53; more expensive, 53 ; Musee Guimet, 70 ; Notre Dame, 63 ; Pa- lais de 1' Industrie, 63; religious condition of, 52 ; Salons of, 63-68. Parisian banquet, 56. Parker, Theodore, 205. Parthenon, 233. Pasamulai, Mission at, 415. Passy, Frederick, 59, 61, 71. • Patmos, Isle of, 249. Peace Cottage, 356. Peck's Bad Boy, 40. Pentecost, George F., 180. Peradeniya, botanical gardens of, 421- 422. Petrarch, 220. Physical chemistry laboratory, 84. Picot, George, 61, 71. Pillar, Asoka's, 328. Pincian Hill, 216-217. Pirasus, 227. Pittindrigh, Reverend George, 405. Planchon, 73. Plato's retirement, 228. Piatt Deutsch, 32. Plesse, 26, 157, 158. Poe, Edgar A., 58. Pompeii, 221, 222. Pompey's Pillar, 280. Poona, 395-398; disturbance in, 397; Joseph Cook in, 398 ; plague in, 396. Port Said and Bombay experiences, Portsmouth, 17. Potsdam, 154, 155. Potter, Paul, 99, Preller, 132. Prohibition in Iowa, 82. 1 INDEX. 477 Protestant Church, bareness of, 44. Prussia, Reform Church of, 44. Prussian poverty, 153. Puaux, Frank, ^t,. Punkas, first experiences of, 319. Puritan discipline, 87. Puritanism, 172, 173, Puvis de Chavannes, 55, 65. Pyramids, 2S5-289; of Sakkara, 297; symbolic of, 289. Python, 316. R. Rachel's tomb, 275. Railways, French and Belgian, 50; German, 125, 126; Indian, 375, 376. Ramses II., study of, 290, 294. Ravaisson-Mollieu, M., 61. Reay, Lord, 56, 57. Red Sea, crossing of, 317, 318, 319. Reformed Church, of Gottingen, 44; of Hanover, 44 ; of Prussia, 44 ; ser- vice of, 45. Reinach, 58, 71, 74, Religions, Congress in 1900, 71, 74, 82; museum of, 71; Parliament of, 72. Rehgious condition of France, 52. Rembrandt, 99; his autobiographies and other portraits, 99; works in Dresden, 143. Reville, Professor Albert, 58, 71, 73- Rheinhausen, 104. Richelieu, Cardinal, portrait of, 61, 67, 68. Ritschl, 93, 159. Robert College, 242. Roberty, Reverend Mr., 74. Roda, Island of, 290, 291. Roentgen, discovery of, yj. Roman Catholic Church, 69. Romans, Epistle to, 226. Rome, 210-218; and the Apostles, 217; changes in, 212; churches in, 213; excavations in, 212; graves in, 213, 214; pictures of, 210, 211. Rubens, 99. Ruysdael, 99. s. Saigon, 431-433. Salamis, 231. Salem, 409. Salon, of the Champs Elysees, 63, 64 ; de Mars, 64, 68; specimens from its catalogue, 64. San Francisco, 45S. Sans Souci, 155. Sarah Tucker College, 415. Sarnath, 340. Saskia, portrait, 100. Savonarola, 209. Saxe, Marechal, 78. Saxons, customs of, 34; maidens, 36. Saxony, 141; and Poland, 141; king of, character, 140, 141. Say, Leon, 82. Schelling, 138. Schiller, 134-137; bones of, 136; house of, 135, 138; hymn to Joy, 138. Schopenhauer, 28. Schopenhauer, Johanna, 134. Schultz, Professor, 94. Schurer, Professor, 93. Scott, Sir Walter, in. Scudder, Henry Martin, 399. Scutari, 243. Scylla, 223. Sea, epithets applied to, 14; hymn to, 14; restful, 14; inconstant, 15, 16. Sedan, loi. Sen, Keshub Chunder, 48, 358. Seraphim, 298. Shah Jehan, tomb of, 371-372, 383, 387. Shakespeare, 51. Shanghai, 439-440. Sharon, Plain of, 252. Shelley, 213-214. Siliguri, 362. Silver party, 248. Simon, Jules, address of, 56; call upon, 82-83. Sinai, Mount, 318. Singapore, 429, 430. Sistine Madonna, 142. Siva, worship of, 333. Slater, Reverend T. E., 399. Small, Reverend John, 395. 478 INDEX.. Smyrna, 245-24S. Sophronios, Patriarch, 312-313. Sorbonne, 55. Southampton, 174. Southern India, fertility of, 401. Spina Christi, 270. Stadt Park of Gottingen, 40-41. Stamboul, 240. Stanislaus, king of Poland, 78. Stanley, Dean, 183. St. Bartholomew, night of, 54, 55, 81. St. Bonifacius, 29. Stead, Reverend F. Herbert, iSo, 181. Stead, William T., 19. Steinberg, 117. Stein, Frau, 135. St. Elizabeth, 126, 128, 131. St. Germain, 51. St. Jerome, 277. Stowe, Mrs., 58. St. Paul at Mars Hill, 234, 235. Strauss, 152. St. Sophia Church, 240. St. Thomas, birthplace of, 403. Suez Canal, 316, 317 ; town of, 317. Sultan, character of, 241 ; motives of, 242-243. Sunday, keeping of, in Europe and America, 52. Taj Mahal, 3S5-388. Tannhauser, 129, 130, 134, 140, 152. Tasso, 79. Tel-el-kebir, 316. Teniers, 99. Thirty years' war, 't,'}ii \^i 97) 98. Thurber, Dr., 70, 19 r. Thuringian Forest, 126. Ti, tomb of, 295, 296. Tilly, 33, 98, 157. Tinnevelly, 415-446. Tokyo, reception in, 453. Tours, •]"]. Trains, German, 22. " Trave," 163. Treaty Point, 453. Trichur, cathedral in, 411-412; drive to, 410; lecture in, 413; reception in, 411. Triplicane, 403. Turin, study of, 200. Turkey, apologists for, 249, 250; mail in, 244; massacres in, 250-251. Turkish fortifications, 245. U. University, buildings, 26 ; German, 84-96; advantage for Americans, 95 ; opening of, 24 ; of Berlin, 85 ; of Cairo (Moslem), 303-305 ; of Chicago, 150; of France, 55, 57, 71, 95- V. Van Dyck, 99. Varnishing day at the Salon, 64-67. Vatican, 216. Vellore, 399-402; Arcot mission, 399; reception in, 401. Vesuvius, 221. Via Dolorosa, 260. Victoria Peak, 435. Virgil, 220. Voltaire, 33, 51, 155. W. Walpurgisnacht, 122. Wartburg, 126-131. Water spout, 174. Weber, 93. Weende, 30, 32, 112. Weender-strasse, 31, 41, 42. Weimar, 132; of theatre, 134; library, 135, 136; Werther restaurant, 134. Weimar, Duke of, 126, 127, 132. Wellhausen, Professor, 93, 94. Werra, 98. Werther restaurant, 134. Weser, 33, 17, 98. Westminster Abbey, 176, 179-180. Wherry, Dr. E. M., 376. J INDEX. 479 Whittier, 27. Wieland room, 134. Wight, Isle of, 17. Wilamovvitz-Mollendorf, Professor, 93. Wilhelmshohe Park, 92, loi, 102. William I., 154. William II., monument, 84. Windsor Castle, 12S. Winthrop, Governor, 116. Wittenberg, 146, 14S. Wohler, 93. Wonders of the world, ancient and modern, 12. Wordsworth, 50, 112. World pilgrimage, reflections on, 459, 466. Wouverman, 99. " Y. " Yang-tse," 429 ; the river, 439. Yokohama, 453. Zante, 223, 224. I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 021 650 942