LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 
 
 Shelf. .-.XEM-JT 
 
 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2011 with funding from 
 The Library of Congress 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/fromindependence01brew 
 
FROM 
 
 INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 Around the World 
 
 BY 
 
 F. CARROLL BREWSTER, LL.D. 
 
 zzyfrf &^l. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 
 THE LEVYTYPE COMPANY. 
 i8 9 £ 
 
-/ 
 
 1 ^Q< 
 
 COPYRIGHT, 1895 
 BY 
 
 F. Carroll Brewster. 
 
 levytype Company 
 
 engravers 
 
 and 
 
 printers. 
 
PUBLISHER'S PREFACE. 
 
 Nowadays, when the facilities of travel on the one 
 hand, and of publication on the other, have made 
 both a voyage around the globe and the printing of 
 its narrative a common-place matter, there is need 
 of something in the way of an apology for the bring- 
 ing out of another book of this kind. 
 
 Apart from the fact that Judge Brewster's notes 
 of his journey, originally made only as private 
 memoranda, have been published in response, prim- 
 arily, to many requests to that end, a broader rea- 
 son for the present work will be found by the reader 
 in the freshness and simplicity of the voyager's 
 recital, in its freedom from the conventional spirit 
 of traveler's tales, in its pointed expression of un- 
 biased views regarding the places and the peoples 
 that he describes. The chronicle of Judge Brewster's 
 journey is clearly that of a keen observer, whose 
 considerations are the reflections of a disciplined 
 mind, whose statements are those of an unprepos- 
 sessed reporter, and whose narrative is presented as 
 a simple and unvarnished tale. 
 
 In collating the illustrations for this journey 
 
PUBLISHER'S PREFACE. 
 
 around the world, the publishers have supplemented 
 the pictures collected by Judge Brewster with a 
 number selected from other sources, and desire here 
 to note their indebtedness to Stuart Culin, Esq., 
 Director of the Archaeological Department of the 
 University of Pennsylvania, for copies of the 
 ethnological illustrations of the Museum, and to 
 Simon A. Stern, Esq., for the use of the extensive 
 series of photographs collected by him on the occa- 
 sion of his mission to the Chinese government. 
 
 L. E. L. 
 
 Philadelphia, June, 1805. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Publisher's Preface V 
 
 Author's Preface VII 
 
 Introduction IX 
 
 From San Francisco to Honolulu 16 
 
 Kilauea 20 
 
 Tables of Hawaiian Population . . . 21 
 
 The Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum 21 
 
 Water Supply of Honolulu 27 
 
 From Honolulu to Yokohama 29 
 
 Clock Time at Sea 31 
 
 The Steerage 35 
 
 Living in Japan 37 
 
 Yokohama , 42 
 
 Dai-Butsu . .- 43 
 
 Tokio 56 
 
 Importation of Words by the Japanese 60 
 
 Japanese Railroads 60 
 
 Inland Sea of Japan 61 
 
 China 64 
 
 Shanghai 64 
 
 China's Trade with Japan 73 
 
 Chinese Aversion to Hunting 76 
 
 Absence of Mail Service in China 80 
 
 Absence of Civilized Conveniences 81 
 
 Peking 81 
 
 Chinese Credulity 86 
 
 Chinese Art of Healing . . . 86 
 
 From Shanghai to Hong-Kong 88 
 
 Canton 88 
 
 Misrule in China ■ 89 
 
 Chinese Fnglish 91 
 
 Religion of China and Japan 92 
 
 Buddhism 94 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS 
 
 Page 
 
 Real Estate in China 96 
 
 Chinese Opium Dens 99 
 
 From China to Calcutta 101 
 
 Saigon . . • 101 
 
 Singapore 107 
 
 Colombo (Ceylon) 109 
 
 The Magicians of the East 112 
 
 Fruits, etc 118 
 
 Kandy 122 
 
 Adam's Peak 125 
 
 Across India 127 
 
 Calcutta 127 
 
 Benares 129 
 
 Lucknow 136 
 
 Residency of Lucknow , 140 
 
 Cawnpore 143 
 
 Agra 146 
 
 Taj-Mahal 148 
 
 Delhi 150 
 
 The Kootub Minar ■ ■ • ■ 153 
 
 Chronological List of Ruins at Delhi 158 
 
 Jeypore 164 
 
 Amber (Anibar) • 170 
 
 Bombay 172 
 
 The Royal Alfred Sailors' Home, Bombay 176 
 
 The Caves of Elephanta 176 
 
 Towers of Silence 178 
 
 Pinjraroot 180 
 
 The Cyclones 185 
 
 Homeward Bound 186 
 
 Suez 188 
 
 Ismailia 191 
 
 Port Said 191 
 
 Candia 191 
 
 Zante 191 
 
 Historical Sketch of the Anglo-Indian Empire .... 192 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The narrative of a tour of the world should 
 be written by one who combines the learning of 
 the historian, the geographer, the astronomer, the 
 statistician, the student of architecture, painting, 
 statuary and all the arts. 
 
 The work would then be worthy of the study of 
 all men, for it w r ould edify, instruct, enlighten and 
 delight the reader. 
 
 Time should also be devoted to the journey, for 
 the faithlul examination of every temple, mosque, 
 tomb, gallery and object of research and of study. 
 
 When the author of this brochure recollects 
 that he possesses none of the mental qualifications 
 above referred to, and that he could not devote the 
 necessary time for the examination of places visited, 
 he feels as if he owed most ample excuse for 
 
 vii 
 
attempting to publish his reminiscences. The 
 truth is his apology. He travelled in a hurry and 
 wrote as opportunity permitted some hasty memo- 
 randa of his journeys. He was requested to publish 
 his manuscript, and he has not had time to re-write 
 or to extend it. Such as it is, and with its many 
 imperfections he reluctantly hands it to the printer. 
 The journeys here described occupied four 
 months and thirteen days. Deducting for a stay 
 in California, four months may be said to represent 
 the actual time employed. Continents, seas, oceans 
 are crossed, and much is seen in such a span of 
 days, but it leaves no time for thorough examina- 
 tion or for needed rest. Egypt, Palestine, Turkey, 
 Greece and all the important cities of Europe were 
 omitted on this excursion and a feverish anxiety to 
 return home pushed the traveller from Port Said to 
 Brindisi, then across Italy, France, and the Atlantic 
 to the United States. 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 HE first man known to history as 
 attempting to circumnavigate the 
 ■ orld was Ferdinand Magellan. He 
 iled from San Lucar in 1519, went 
 South America, passed through the 
 raits to which he gave his name, 
 id up the Pacific ocean to the Phil- 
 >ine Islands. There he was unfor- 
 mately killed in 1521, in a conflict 
 with the natives. His vessel however 
 returned in safety to Spain September 6, 1522, thus 
 making the first voyage round the world. 
 
 Sir Francis Drake is the next historical celebrity 
 in this connection. He was the first Englishman 
 to attempt a voyage around the world. He com- 
 menced his celebrated expedition at 32 years of age. 
 The best portrait of him extant pictures him as 
 of middle height, with brown hair, high forehead, 
 long grey eyes, small ears, and a long moustache 
 and beard covering his mouth and chin. He is 
 dressed in a loose dark shirt, with a belt around his 
 waist. 
 
He sailed from Plymouth, England on the Pelican, 
 of only 120 tons, November 15, 1577. He had with 
 him four other vessels, one of fifty, one of thirty and 
 two of eighty tons. His whole force consisted of 166 
 men. The Pelican carried twenty guns. His desti- 
 nation was unknown to his crew. Shortly after 
 sailing, a storm overtook him, which compelled a 
 return to Falmouth for repairs. He started again 
 December 13, went to the Cape de Verde Islands; 
 after robbing a few Spanish vessels, he sailed to South 
 America. In this neighborhood one of his captains 
 Doughty, deserted ; search was made for him, he 
 was captured and transferred with his crew to the 
 Pelican. Drake then proceeded to Patagonia, 
 where Doughty was tried, condemned to death, and 
 was beheaded. 
 
 After three weeks of hardship the navigators 
 found themselves in the Pacific. There remained 
 only the Pelican, the Elizabeth and the thirty ton 
 cutter. The cutter went down in a hurricane. 
 
 The captain of the Elizabeth left Drake and 
 reached England in the following June. Drake 
 remained. He soon met an Indian fisherman who 
 informed him of a galleon in the harbor of Valpa- 
 raiso. The Pelican sailed alongside her prize, and 
 surprised the Spanish seamen. Not caring to in- 
 jure them, Drake seized their treasures. Silver of 
 the value of four thousand ducats was transferred 
 
to the Pelican. Drake also robbed the " Cacafuego' 
 which was laden with all the bullion of the 
 season's mining, gold and jewels, on her way from 
 the Isthmus. The full value of all his plunder 
 remained a secret between Drake and the Queen. 
 
 Near the coast of Mexico the Pelican plundered a 
 Chinese vessel, and robbed the principal citizens of 
 a Spanish settlement. In lower California a month 
 was spent repairing the Pelican. April 16, 1579, 
 Drake started north in hope of finding a northern 
 passage. Before the summer w 7 as ended, England 
 and Spain had learned of Drake's plunderings. 
 
 Phillip wrote to England to be instantly in- 
 formed of the pirates arrival, and requested the res- 
 toration of the plunder and the punishment of the 
 offender. He also sent ships to guard the straits of 
 Magellan. Drake stopped at San Francisco, and se- 
 cured the good graces of the Indians by presenting 
 them with medicines and ointments. They be- 
 lieved him to be a god, and offered sacrifice to him. 
 
 During his stay he discovered the existence of 
 gold. Setting sail again, he passed along the Java 
 coast and came near being stranded. A change of 
 wind brought his ship into deep water, and pro- 
 ceeding westward he passed through the straits of 
 Sunda, reaching Plymouth in October. Not having 
 heard of Drake for eighteen months, the whole 
 country rang with his praises. The Queen was de- 
 lighted and received him with great honor. 
 
The Spanish Ambassador sent word to the Queen 
 that unless restoration was made, immediate war 
 must be expected. Fearing she might have to 
 yield, she refused to allow the plunder to be regis- 
 tered, and resolved to reserve a goodly portion for 
 herself, for her favorites, and ten thousand pounds 
 for Drake and his company. She sent Drake to 
 Plymouth to take charge of the booty, and selected 
 a magistrate on whom she could rely to inventory 
 the cargo, allowing Drake time and opportunity for 
 removing a great part of the plunder before regis- 
 tration was made. 
 
 On Drake's return to London, he was received 
 with great favor, the Queen bestowing upon him 
 the honor of knighthood. He was however cen- 
 sured by men whose good opinion he valued, and 
 he gave them handsome presents in the hope of 
 changing this opposition. He presented a diamond 
 cross with a crown set with enormous emeralds to 
 the Queen. She wore this on New Year's day. 
 
 Burghley and Sussex, to their honor be it said, 
 would not accept the presents of the pirate. 
 
 Captain Cook's name is known to every school 
 boy. He made three successful voyages round the 
 world. 
 
 The first in 1768 was in a small ship, the "En- 
 deavour," of only 370 tons. Diminutive as was 
 this vessel she seems to have been a giantess when 
 
compared with the " Santa Maria " of Columbus, 
 which was not over 100 tons. 
 
 Cook reached Otaheite or Tahite, where he erected 
 an observatory and made astronomical observations. 
 
 From there he sailed in quest of the great conti- 
 nent, then supposed to exist in the South Pacific, 
 and reached the Islands of New Zealand. Owing 
 to the hostility of the natives, he could not pene- 
 trate to the interior, and contented himself with a 
 voyage of six months around the coast. He then 
 proceeded to Australia and sighted Botany Bay 
 April 28th. From Australia he sailed to New 
 Guinea and thence to Batavia, where his ship had 
 to put in for repairs. 
 
 He arrived in England June 11, 1771, was raised 
 by the King to the rank of Captain, and was 
 placed in command of the " Resolution, " a ship of 
 462 tons, and a smaller ship called the "Adven- 
 ture." He sailed from Plymouth July 13, 1772, to 
 discover the great southern continent. He reached 
 Madeira July 29, and touched the Cape of Good 
 Hope. January 17, 1773 he sailed for New Zealand 
 and returned to England July 30, 1774. He sailed 
 from Nore June 25, 1776, cruised in the South 
 Pacific, discovered the Sandwich Islands (named 
 after the Earl of Sandwich) and reached America in 
 March, 1778. Returning to winter in the Sandwich 
 
Islands, he discovered Hawaii, where he met his 
 tragical death February 14, 1779. 
 
 Many have supposed that Marco Polo sailed 
 round the world. This is a mistake. He was a 
 native of Venice. In April, 1271, at the age of 17; 
 he travelled through Persia and Turkestan, and pass- 
 ing across the great Gobi desert he reached Cathay 
 (China). There he visited Kublai Khan at his 
 summer palace in Shandu. He spent a year with 
 the Khan, learned the language, and wore the Tar- 
 tar costume. 
 
 He became Envoy to the Khan, and at 23 was 
 sent to the western and southern provinces. Among 
 other places he visited Thibet, Nankin, Pekin, and 
 spent considerable time in Kinsai, which was noted 
 for its fine buildings and public baths, of which he 
 found 4000 in the city. He described the women 
 of Kinsai as "of angelic beauty." He returned to 
 Kambalu, where he was welcomed and held in high 
 favor by the Khan. Later, he was sent on another 
 expedition to the Japanese Islands. He describes 
 Ceylon as the loveliest island in the Eastern Seas. 
 Here he saw the jagged mountain called "Adam's 
 Peak" upon which is said to be the tomb of the 
 founder of the Buddhist religion. 
 
 As the Envoy of the Khan, he was admitted into 
 the higher class of Hindoos, known as Brahmins. 
 After travelling in the interior of India, he crossed 
 
the Indian Ocean toward the coast of Africa and 
 proceeded to the great island of Madagascar, pass- 
 ing through Zanzibar and Abyssinia. He then re- 
 turned to Kambalu. Sixteen years had now passed 
 since Marco had left his native city. His mission 
 to Cathay had been accomplished. He reported 
 that he had converted the Khan and many of his 
 subjects to Christianity. Marco was 41 years of 
 age when he returned to Venice. Soon after, he 
 enlisted for the war between Genoa and Venice. 
 He commanded a galley, fought bravely, but was 
 captured. His brave commander, Dandola, killed 
 himself rather than be carried a prisoner to Genoa. 
 Marco was imprisoned and occupied the cell with 
 a great scholar of Pisa. They became fast friends. 
 While in prison, he wrote the thrilling story of his 
 travels. Five months later, Marco's father, Nicolo, 
 and his brother, Maffeo, visited him in prison. They 
 offered a large sum as a ransom. Marco was re- 
 leased. A year later, in 1299, he returned to Ven- 
 ice. Shortly afterwards, he married Donata Lore- 
 dano, the daughter of a nobleman. He died at the 
 age of 70. His travels read like fairy tales. 
 
FROn SAN FRANCISCO (N. 37 47') 
 To HONOLULU (N. 21 18 ) 
 
 Distance, 2092 miles. 
 Time, 6 days, 15 hours. 
 Fare, 1st class, $100. 
 
 Difference in Time : 
 Philadelphia, 12 Noon. 
 San Francisco, 9 A. M. 
 Honolulu, 6.30 A. M. 
 
 OYAGES on the Pacific are 
 not marked by the number 
 of vessels one generally 
 sees in crossing the Atlan- 
 tic. A steamer and a sailer 
 were all the ships sighted in 
 six days. A few flying-fish 
 and birds hardly relieved the 
 monotony. 
 
 The entrance to the harbor 
 of Honolulu is very pictur- 
 esque, but it is narrow and dangerous. It is well 
 marked by buoys. Very effective dredging has 
 been done on the bar. 
 
 The Hawaiian Republic consists of six large 
 and two small islands ; in all, nearly 7000 square 
 miles and 90,000 inhabitants. Honolulu, the capi- 
 tal, contains a population of about 27,000. The 
 
 16 
 
AROUND THE WOELD 17 
 
 form of government is Republican. The streets of 
 Honolulu are smooth and well laid out. A tram 
 connects the centre of the town with the suburbs. 
 There are some very fine buildings. The largest 
 was formerly the royal palace. It is now the seat 
 of government of the Republic. It is of grand 
 proportions with Corinthian columns. There is a 
 splendid hospital, a very large stone church, some 
 smaller places of worship, including a Mormon 
 chapel. You must add to these the post office, 
 museum, municipal buildings and many attractive 
 residences. The appearance, on the whole, is of a 
 large country town with mountains at the side and 
 in the rear. A drive of seven miles takes you to 
 Pali (the cliff), which presents a picture of rare 
 beauty. Standing upon a shelf of rock some 2000 
 feet high, you see a perpendicular descent touching 
 a valley of 1000 acres dotted with two villages and 
 washed by the ocean. The effect is very grand. 
 The Island is about sixteen miles on its longest line 
 and was stated to be over sixty -four miles around. 
 Tropical trees and plants abound. The date, cocoa- 
 palm, sorghum, mango, guava, banyan, eucalyptus 
 (called here kora), bananas, pine-apples, and other 
 plants, with beautiful flowers, are seen in great pro- 
 fusion . 
 
 The history of these interesting islands, since their 
 first discovery by Cook, is well known. The arrival 
 
18 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE IIAJ.L 
 
 of our missionaries in 1820 and 1823 was followed 
 by the conversion of the Queen and of all the king- 
 dom. 
 
 Vancouver is credited with the introduction of 
 cattle and of chickens. The best horses are brought 
 from the United States. A splendid grey was 
 quoted at $250. 
 
 Subsequent to Vancouver's last visit and prior to 
 the conquest 
 by Kameha- 
 meha, the 
 h arbor o f 
 Honolulu 
 was discov- 
 ered by Cap- 
 tain Brown 
 of the British 
 ship Butter- 
 worth. He 
 called it Fair- 
 haven. Sur- 
 veys followed 
 by the British and Russians. 
 
 Aside from the conversion of the people to Chris- 
 tianity, there have been several historical items of 
 some interest in the life of this nation. The first 
 was in 1843. The British Consul had complained 
 to Lord George Paulet, commanding the " Carys- 
 
 GOVERNMENT HOUSE. HONOLULU. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 19 
 
 fort," of outrages inflicted upon him and other 
 subjects of her Majesty. A suit had been brought 
 for a laundry bill and an attachment had been 
 issued against certain property. For these and 
 other wrongs Captain Paulet sent to the King six 
 demands. The first of these was for the removal of 
 the odious attachment. This was accompanied by 
 a threat of bombardment to be carried into effect 
 the next afternoon. 
 
 The King meekly replied that he would comply, 
 but under protest, and referred the whole question to 
 her Majesty. But this only emboldened the Captain 
 to present other demands, and the King in despair 
 exclaiming that " he would not die piecemeal " and 
 entering his solemn protest, ceded the islands to 
 Great Britain, reserving his appeal to her Majesty. 
 Captain Paulet assumed charge. But the Queen 
 soon terminated the comedy. In a few months 
 (July 26, 1843) Admiral Thomas arrived in H. M. 
 S. Dublin. He immediately sought the King — 
 restored the sovereignty and saluted the Hawaiian 
 standard. Of course a feast was given. History 
 records this interesting occasion in these words: 
 " There were three long tables, one at the head run- 
 " ning cross-wise. At this head table His Majesty 
 "sat, on the ground, in native fashion, with the 
 " Admiral upon his right and the other officers, 
 "etc. . . . 
 
20 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 11 Of knives and forks there were not enough to go 
 " round, and a very nimble use of the fingers was 
 " made. . . . There was the finely baked pig, 
 " the roasted dog and all the variety of the native 
 " fish, flesh and fowl and fruits of the islands." 
 
 The next chapter of interest records such recent 
 events as to render notice of them almost unneces- 
 sary. It stands alone in the history of the United 
 States. The Queen sought in January, 1893, to 
 break the constitution. Her ministers refused to aid 
 her treason. The people peaceably deposed her. 
 Our representative recognized the new Republic. 
 Seventeen other governments followed suit. And 
 then, to our sorrow, the U. S. President exerted every 
 effort to restore this dethroned Queen. Our country 
 was singularly saved from the reproach by the 
 Queen herself who refused to be restored unless she 
 could behead our citizens. 
 
 Of the extinct volcano kilauea much has been 
 written by Lady Brassey, Dr. Lyons and others. 
 
 A new hotel stands almost on the brink of the 
 crater. The vapors are utilized for baths, etc. The 
 lava floor of the crater is crossed by visitors. It is 
 said that it heaves occasionally and that in 1891 
 there w T as a considerable change. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 21 
 
 The Following Comparative Table of Nationality of Popu- 
 lation of Hawaiian Islands in 1890 may be of Interest : 
 
 NATIONALITY. 
 
 Natives 
 
 Half-castes 
 
 Chinese 
 
 Americans 
 
 Hawaiian born 
 
 Britons 
 
 Portuguese 
 
 Germans 
 
 French 
 
 Japanese 
 
 Norwegian 
 
 Other foreigners 
 
 Polynesian 
 
 of foreign parents 
 
 1S90. 
 
 34,436. 
 
 6,186. 
 
 15,301. 
 
 1,928. 
 
 7,495. 
 
 1,344. 
 
 8,602. 
 
 1,434. 
 
 70. 
 
 12,360. 
 
 227. 
 
 419. 
 
 588. 
 
 89,990. 
 
 Of the beknice pauahi bishop museum, W. 
 T. Brigham, A. M., Curator, writes — "That it 
 fulfills two public uses: it preserves in fitting 
 monument the name of one honored and beloved in 
 the community, and it also by its nature and con- 
 tents adds dignity to the country at large. It was 
 founded in 1889 by Hon. Charles R. Bishop, and 
 placed in the custody of the Trustees of the 
 Kamehameha Schools, with a sufficient endowment 
 to insure its preservation, if not its growth. Ex- 
 ternally it is a structure if not perfect architecturally, 
 at least attractive, built of the very bones of the 
 land, the durable lava blocks from one of the 
 
22 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 ancient flows that piled up the mountains of Oahu. 
 Somewhat dark and sombre as this material is, it is 
 closely covered by the delicate leaves and bright 
 yellow blossoms of what may be called the ' Hono- 
 lulu Ivy.' " 
 
 Two ample doors in the central tower admit to a 
 hallway, which, emptied of its ethnological treasures, 
 would still claim the visitor's attention from the 
 beauty of the native koa woodwork of the panelled 
 wainscot and stairs. To the left opens the Kahili 
 room, finished in white cedar and like the entrance 
 hall, paved with encaustic tile and brick. On the 
 other hand is the main room of the museum, above 
 which and reached by the stairway is the picture 
 gallery. So much for the general features of this 
 fire-proof building. 
 
 Here it is hoped to collect not only every article 
 that may illustrate the ethnology of this group, but 
 also every bird, fish, insect, shell, coral, plant, in 
 short all that will show in an accurate and 
 scientific as well as popular way, whatever of life 
 the islands produce. This must be a work of time 
 even with the assistance of all the friends of the 
 museum, but already a beginning has been made, 
 and experts in the various departments have prom- 
 ised to name the specimens when collected, so that 
 here in the Pacific may be as accurately named fish, 
 shells, corals, etc., as can be found in any museum 
 of Europe or America. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 23 
 
 The kahilis head the list of what the museum 
 has that is not to be found elsewhere, and it has 
 seemed worth while to attempt to preserve these 
 rather perishable emblems of royalty. There are 
 forty-five of the large processional kahilis and more 
 than sixty of the smaller fly-brushes. Some of 
 these saw the birth of the Kamehameha Dynasty, 
 others f o 1 - 
 lowed the last 
 son of Kame- 
 hameha I. to 
 the tomb, and 
 the latest 
 made were of 
 pure white 
 feathers to 
 m ark the 
 funeral pomp 
 of the last of 
 the Kameha- 
 mehas, whose 
 name this museum bears. In the midst of these 
 impressive kahilis are the Hawaiian birds, and this 
 collection contains many very choice specimens. In 
 the same room are the Niihau mats, one of these 
 being very old, once the property of Kamehameha 
 I; another is very large, 14Jx3(H feet. All of 
 them are interesting as a manufacture most credit- 
 
 QUEEN STREET, HONOLULU. 
 
24: FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 able to Hawaiian industry, but fast becoming a 
 lost art. 
 
 Of the kapas the museum possesses more than 
 35,000 square feet, but this immense surface conveys 
 little idea of the great variety of texture, pattern 
 and color. All the museums of Europe combined 
 cannot equal this very remarkable collection, which 
 fully sustains the reputation of Hawaiian kapas as 
 the best in the world. In one case in the main 
 room one can trace the manufacture of bark cloth 
 from the strip of bark through every process to the 
 finished product; and better still, examine the texture 
 of this paper cloth in some 224 specimens placed 
 like stained glass in the windows. 
 
 In wooden bowls and dishes the museum is very 
 rich, having many of admirable form made long be- 
 fore wood-working machinery was introduced- 
 These were the "services of plate" of the old kings 
 and alii. The largest is a bowlnine feet in circum- 
 ference while the smallest is a little bowl from which 
 Queen Emma eat in childhood. Here are dishes 
 for fish, roast pig and dog; finger bowls for washing 
 at the feast; gourd bottles and cocoanut cups for 
 drinking; small dishes for inamona, and in the 
 midst of all these convivial implements to remind 
 that there is an end to all feasting, like the mummy 
 of the Egyptian banquet, is the great trough in 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 25 
 
 which the body of a chief was dissected and his 
 bones cleaned. 
 
 The Hawaiians were great fishermen and this 
 handicraft is well shown here. Nets of olona of 
 many kinds, fish traps and hooks of fine workman- 
 ship. Of these last some are of human bone, others 
 of tortoise-shell, ivory or sea-shell; and here, too, are 
 the hooks hammered from the nails procured from 
 the early voyagers. The hooks range in size from a 
 tiny shell hook less than half an inch across to the 
 large wooden shark hook that was always baited with 
 human flesh. Among these are the great platters 
 made from alapainui, saturated with the blood of 
 many a slave fatted to make himself useful as shark 
 bait. 
 
 Man cannot live to eat and work only ; he must 
 have play, and by the playthings here it will be in- 
 ferred that the old Hawaiians had their share of 
 amusements. Many of these were athletic sports of 
 the finest kind. Would that the youth of the 
 present day could roll the ulumaika with the zest 
 they put into the far inferior base ball ; ride the surf- 
 board as easily as they ride the bicycle, and hurl an 
 ihe or spear as powerfully as did the contemporaries 
 of Kamehameha I. Here is a spherical ulu of good 
 workmanship, weighing twenty-two pounds, that 
 would exhaust a modern bowler. But while the men 
 were sliding down hill on the holua, the women 
 
26 
 
 FROM IXDKI'KXDKXC'K IIALL 
 
 were making feather cloaks or braiding the strands 
 of human hair for leis in a way far superior to any- 
 other braid of hair found in the Pacific. 
 
 Here are Hawaiian adzes in astonishing variety 
 from the rudely chipped block to the finely finished 
 tool, and with these are the grind-stones on which 
 
 the patient 
 adz m a k e r 
 s h a rpened 
 the stone. 
 To go to ex- 
 t r e m e s we 
 pass from the 
 very solid 
 stone adz, 
 most durable 
 of relics, to 
 an article 
 which is pro- 
 v e r b i a 1 1 y 
 
 flimsy and ephemeral, a woman's hat. Here are 
 half a hundred made of a great variety of material 
 from shavings to bean pods. Those of loulu and 
 hako are especially fine and suggest the desirability 
 of a larger manufacture than at present obtains. 
 
 Turning from these islands to the more extensive 
 region that the plan of the museum embraces, 
 there are several departments where the museum is 
 
 NUUANU STREET— LOOKING UP. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 27 
 
 as rich as in specimens simply Hawaiian. Of 
 Maori implements and manufactures there is a re- 
 markably complete and valuable series. So of Fiji, 
 while the Marquesas and Society Islands are hardly 
 represented at all. Micronesia is here in force, so 
 are New Guinea and Solomon Islands, and there is 
 a fair show of Australian implements. 
 
 In the picture gallery the portraits, although often 
 far from artistic work, are interesting from their sub- 
 jects, the Kings, Queens and Alii of Hawaii. The 
 photographs are very instructive, but strangely, the 
 poorest of these are those of Hawaiians. 
 
 Among the relics is the silver teapot given to 
 Madame Boki by the King of England, also the one 
 sent to Kaahumanu, and the large silver cup given 
 by Queen Victoria to her sister-Queen Emma. Far 
 more interesting than these is a bit of looking glass 
 given by Vancouver to Kamehameha I, and which 
 doubtless has reflected the faces of Hawaii's greatest 
 chiefs; as if conscious of this it now refuses to re- 
 flect any more. 
 
 Honolulu's System of Water Supply consists of 
 one intermediate reservoir and three storage basins in 
 Nuuanu Valley, and one at the entrance of Makiki 
 Valley (fed by the streams and springs of the neigh- 
 borhood), with a combined capacity of 40,369,937 
 gallons, and five flowing artesian wells of seven and 
 
28 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HAI.L 
 
 five-eighths inches bore connecting with the mains in 
 the eastern part of the city and Waikiki. 
 
 The street mains comprise nearly thirty-six and a 
 half miles of pipe, divided as follows : 
 
 One hundred and fifty feet, twenty-four inch ; 100 
 feet, sixteen inch; 10,300 feet, fifteen inch; 27,560 
 feet, twelve inch; 1000 feet, ten inch; 31,790 feet, 
 six inch; 6220 feet, five inch; 69,574 feet, four 
 inch; 17,285 feet, three inch; 8167 feet, two inch; 
 a total of 192,586 feet. 
 
 At the last report of the Superintendent of Water 
 Works for the Legislature of 1892 there were 2109 
 privileges supplied by the above system, at rates 
 ranging from $5.00 to $320.00 per annum, produ- 
 cing an annual income of over $42,000. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 29 
 
 FROM HONOLULU (Lat. 21 °, 18 North) 
 To YOKOHAMA (Lat. 35°, 26' North). 
 
 Distance, 3420 miles. 
 Time, 12 days. 
 Fare, first-class, $100. 
 
 Difference in Clock : 
 Philadelphia, 12 Noon. 
 San Francisco, 9 A. M. 
 Honolulu, 6.30 A. M. 
 Yokohama, 2 A. M. 
 
 HE enterprise of our merchants 
 has been fully developed and 
 attested on the Western Ocean. 
 There are two lines from San 
 Francisco to Honolulu, Japan 
 and Hong Kong. 
 
 Both are American and they 
 
 work in concert. The Occidental 
 
 and Oriental have a powerful and 
 
 celebrated fleet. The Pacific Mail 
 
 Steamship Company operates the 
 
 following : 
 
 The China, City of Pekin, City of Rio Janeiro, 
 
 Peru, City of Sydney, Colima Acapulco, Colon, San 
 
 Bias, San Jose, San Juan, Costa Pica, Starbuck, 
 
 Barracouta. 
 
 Besides these the same Company runs upon the 
 
30 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HAEE 
 
 Atlantic the Newport, City of Para, the Columbia, 
 and the Miller Griffith (a. tug). "The China," the 
 Queen of the fleet, is*456 feet long, of 5000 tonnage, 
 and 8000 horse-power. She was built in 1889, at 
 
 ^mr^ 
 
 PILE DWELLINGS AT TOKIO. 
 
 Glasgow under the supervision of Captain Wm. B. 
 Seabury, and cost nearly a million of dollars. Our 
 country has reason to be proud of Captain Seabury. 
 He is now in the very prime of life and vigor, although 
 he has seen thirty-eight years of hard service, twenty- 
 
AROUND TJIE WORLD 31 
 
 nine years of which have been with the Pacific M. S- 
 Company. Think of this sea record : seven times 
 round Cape Horn before he was 21 ; nine years in 
 sailing ships, 101 round voyages from New York to 
 Colon, fifty six voyages from San Francisco to British 
 Columbia, five from New York to .Sydney, many 
 from San Francisco to Panama and back and from 
 San Francisco to China and back one from New 
 York to San Francisco through the straits of Magel- 
 lan, one from Glasgow through the Mediterranean 
 and the Suez Canal to Hong Kong. 
 
 The Clock Time at Sea. — One does not need to 
 travel over the sea in order to realize the changes 
 of the watch. 
 
 A journey from Philadelphia to Chicago throws 
 every time-piece an hour ahead, for noon at the 
 starting point will be 11 A. M. in the western city. 
 So if the race with the sun be continued to San 
 Francisco, the noon of home will become 9 A. M. at 
 the Pacific. Proceeding on to Honolulu the dis- 
 crepancy increases, noon of Philadelphia is 6.30 A. 
 M. at the Sandwich Islands, and at Yokohama the 
 home mid-day is 2 A. M. 
 
 It is clear, therefore, that one can exchange noon 
 for midnight if he only travel far enough. At that 
 moment he passes to another day in his calendar. 
 This is what must be understood by the common 
 expressions "gaining a day," "losing a day." In 
 
32 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 fact, no day is gained nor lost. The day remains, 
 but by an absolute law of navigation a correction of 
 time must be made. It was said to the writer that 
 "out somewhere in the Pacific a day was dropped or 
 "the same day was twice counted." But the locality 
 
 A JINRIKSHAW. 
 
 of this "somewhere" and the details of the opera- 
 tion can never be understood, or explained, save by 
 actual experiment. We all understand that the 
 circle is marked to contain 360 degrees, whereof 180 
 degrees are, of course, the half. For the purposes 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 33 
 
 of navigation most civilized nations calculate from 
 the meridian of Greenwich. A steamer going west 
 from Honolulu towards Yokohama may approach 
 the 180° west of Greenwich on her fourth day from 
 
 SETTING OUT FOR A JOURNEY IN A " KANGA." 
 
 the Sandwich Islands. Suppose that fourth day to 
 be Saturday, November 18, 1894, and that the 180° 
 west is crossed at 11. A. M. of that day. As there is 
 no 181° west, the hour the vessel crosses the line of 
 180° west she finds herself, according to her map 
 approaching the 179° east of Greenwich. Therefore 
 
34 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 she must change her day to Greenwich time. At 
 Greenwich it is not Saturday, November 18, but 
 Sunday, November 19, 1894. The ship accordingly 
 drops Saturday, calls it Sunday and thus goes on. 
 
 An English writer, the celebrated Lieutenant 
 Leckey, has published a very learned and interest- 
 ing work entitled "Wrinkles in Practical Naviga- 
 tion." He explains this somewhat puzzling rule 
 very clearly: "Going east or west round the world 
 "there will be no real gain or loss of a day." 
 Otherwise a man, by continually sailing round east, 
 might be considered — from the frequent repetition 
 of a day which it entailed — to have lived longer 
 than another who stopped at home. In the case of 
 the traveller he only appears to gain a day, as each 
 one of those he has lived whilst on his journey has 
 been shorter by a certain number of minutes which 
 has arisen from the difference of longitude traversed 
 between two consecutive arrivals of the sun on his 
 meridian whilst the day of the man who remained 
 behind has always contained the complete twenty- 
 four hours. 
 
 Again, if two men, A and B, started at the same 
 instant on a journey round the world, the first going 
 east and the other west, and neither made any 
 alteration in their dates from time of setting out 
 until their return, together, on the same day, this is 
 what would happen: A would believe he had 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 arrived, say on Sunday, and B would persist in con- 
 sidering it as Friday. There would be a difference 
 of two whole days in their reckoning, but no one 
 would seriously entertain the idea that on this ac- 
 count A had lived forty-eight hours longer than B. 
 
 The actual clay of the week would, of course, be 
 Saturday, and the actual time occupied by each on 
 the journey would be precisely the same." 
 
 The STEERAGE.-The Chinese have a strong attach- 
 ment for their New Years day, which comes round 
 in February. To guard against the inability of our 
 ships to carry an immense multitude the Orientals 
 start early on their home pilgrimage. Hence in 
 November the Steamship " China " left San Fran- 
 cisco with over 600 Chinese and received 200 more 
 at Honolulu. They pay $51 a head for the voyage 
 from San Francisco to Hong Kong. They sleep on 
 shelves — males separate from females. How they 
 manage to live seems a marvel. The visit to their 
 crowded quarters makes a strong impression on the 
 memory and on the olfactories. The troop is divided 
 into companies of ten. They select a commissary. He 
 obtains a ticket from the steward — presents it when 
 he receives the rations and gets it back when he 
 returns the vessels. There are no tables — no chairs. 
 They sit or squat on the deck, help themselves from 
 the filled tins each commissary brings to his mess 
 by ladling a portion into their cups. Then they 
 
36 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 eat, laugh and chat in the most contented man- 
 
 ner. 
 
 The supplies are well cooked and from the 
 avidity with which the articles are consumed they 
 
 A JAPANESE RELIGIOUS SERVICE. 
 
 must be palatable. But to our eyes the food seems 
 to be curious and unknown. There are three meals 
 served in this fashion per diem. The breakfast is at 
 7. It consists of beef, cabbage, beans, pickled ginger, 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 37 
 
 orange peel tea. Lunch comes at 12, of shrimps, 
 vermicelli soup, beef, rice, tea. Supper is at 4. It 
 is composed of bean card, cabbage, potatoes and 
 beef stew, dried turnips, salt peas, pickled onions, 
 rice and tea. Sometimes duck eggs are served. 
 These have been preserved in coatings of yellow or 
 black earth. The boast is made that these cover- 
 ings keep the eggs fresh. But this is not always 
 the result. Nor indeed do all the Chinese so desire 
 it to be. One will take a very rotten egg and refuse 
 it. Another will pick it up, and devour it — saying, 
 " Ah! Ah! Inglee man take cheesee all maggots 
 good in mouth. I likee black eggee.^ 
 
 So forcible is the example of the great! 
 
 The supplies cost the ship ten cents a day per capita. 
 
 Living in Japan. — Persons who find the climate 
 of our Eastern States annoying and who are seeking 
 for more congenial spots may well consider Hawaii 
 and Japan. The former is warmer but has less 
 excitement and attraction. The south coast of Japan 
 has its season of slight snow falls and demanding 
 fires, but it is never troubled with severe frosts. The 
 lover of skating has been knowm to shade a small 
 piece of water with mats to keep off the sun and to 
 secure a very thin ice on which to try his skill. This 
 country has also the advantage of many foreign 
 vessels, of telegraphs, of cheap living and of harm- 
 
38 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 less (?) earthquakes. Although many thousands were 
 destroyed a few years ago yet visitors have, it is said, 
 regretted that there was no shock during their stay. 
 
 A JAPANESE FAMILY AT MEAL TIME. 
 
 Many of the houses are so built as to guard 
 against destruction and it is alleged that no 
 foreigners have ever been killed. Living is very 
 cheap, coal and some necessaries very dear, but 
 what we call luxuries are at very moderate rates. 
 
 Then your gold commands nearly two to one in 
 Japanese dollars (called yens). 
 
AROUND THE WORL.D 
 
 39 
 
 Many walk with wooden sandals raised several 
 inches from the ground by two upright narrow 
 strips running across the soles. These shoes make 
 a curious noise and enforce a mincing gait. 
 
 The hotel waiters move across the floors in socks. 
 
 A JAPANESE TAILOR SHOP. 
 
 In their little sitting rooms they have a few live 
 coals to keep their feet warm. It is stated that no 
 Japanese enters a house wearing the shoes used on 
 the street. These are always left at the door and 
 slippers substituted. Obviously the object is cleanli- 
 3 
 
40 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 ness. The men seem so far as legs are concerned to 
 belong to different races. The waiters are about 5 
 feet high, and their lower limbs are not only very 
 thin, but as if this were a matter of pride they are 
 
 encased in tightly 
 fitting trousers show- 
 ing the attenuations 
 to the greatest ad- 
 vantage. 
 
 Yet the outsiders 
 are large and the 
 pull-men have mus- 
 cular calves. I give 
 this name to the 
 jinrikishaw pushers. 
 Cabs are very scarce- 
 In place of them one 
 finds in front of the 
 hotels, the stations 
 and other places, a 
 little gig, large 
 enough for only one 
 person, seat low down 
 and baby shafts in 
 front. It looks like a toy conveyance. It is called a 
 inrikisha. The name means man puller. The 
 traveller must be cautious lest an untimely slip of this 
 new horse should throw the shafts up and pitch the 
 
 GROUP OF JAPANESE LADIES. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 41 
 
 occupant out backward. Some such accident has 
 been exhibited by a clever artist whose picture hangs 
 as a warning at the hotel door. The man who 
 drags you thus along has no covering below the 
 knees; is clad in drawers and a loose coat coming to 
 the hips. His head is covered with a light hat 
 looking exactly like an inverted wash basin with a 
 broad brim. His trot is an even jog. In the city 
 on smooth macadamized streets the work is no 
 slight affair. In the country where the highways 
 are narrow and worn occasionally into deep seams 
 the labor is great, always aggravated when a rain 
 creates mud. The pay for this hard work is very 
 small — only 15 cents an hour. 
 
 A guide receives two yens ($2) a day and finds 
 himself. Allowing for the large premium on our 
 money, the uncertainties of constant employment, 
 the necessity for a respectable appearance, etc., the 
 wages seem very small. 
 
 The rikshaw, as it is generally pronounced, is not 
 the only peculiarity of the Japanese laborer. He 
 builds his houses generally with an inside shell (to 
 guard against the dreaded earthquakes), often with- 
 out nails; the plane and the saw are drawn towards 
 the workman; mills are disliked and hand-power is 
 the favorite. 
 
42 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL, 
 
 Yokohama. — This city, although regarded by 
 many foreigners as the largest in Japan, is really 
 inferior in population to many of her sisters. It is 
 
 HSHHSHaKiHa 
 YOKOHAMA— A GLIMPSE OF THE WATER FRONT. 
 
 merely the principal treaty port opened to foreigners 
 in 1859. It is well situated on a large bay. Its 
 harbor is protected by a break-water. The streets 
 are well laid out and macadamized. Some of the 
 buildings seem to have been constructed without 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 43 
 
 any fear of earthquakes before the eyes of the 
 owners. Amongst these one notices the Grand 
 Hotel, Domestic Missions and Public Buildings. 
 The picturesque appearance of Yokohama is en- 
 hanced by the volcano Fusi-Yama, visible, though at 
 a great distance, in clear weather. Its summit is 
 snow T capped and it is said to be 13,000 feet high. 
 
 The Grand Hotel well deserves its name. It is 
 two stories high, facing the broad street and the bay, 
 with a splendid garden and fountain in the rear. 
 The large dining room with its mountains of chrys- 
 anthemums is a very pleasing sight, and Mr. Louis 
 Eppinger is all that could be desired of a courteous 
 and obliging manager. 
 
 Dai-Butsu. — In the grounds of the "Ko-toku-in " 
 (Jodo Sect) Monastery of Kamakura, situated but a 
 short distance from the village of Hase and the sea- 
 coast, is preserved one of the most remarkable repre- 
 sentations of the Buddha which. Japan has produced, 
 an image so perfect that it is regarded as the culmi- 
 nation of the art of bronze-casting in that country. 
 
 The name, Dai-Butsu, is given to a colossal repre- 
 sentation of Buddah. There are many of these 
 images in Japan. A description of one will suffice 
 for all, the differences not being worthy of special 
 note. The nearest to Yokohama is to be found 
 within a short distance of Kamakara. This place 
 
L 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 45 
 
 is reached by rail and is about fourteen miles (one 
 hour) from Yokohama. The ride is very interesting 
 to the stranger. The scenery is beautifully inter- 
 spersed with mountains and fertile valleys. The 
 Japanese seem to understand the art of irrigation. 
 They do not dig deep ditches round their fields, 
 leaving the water to find its way to the crops, but 
 they make sure of every drop. The ground is cut 
 into small squares, triangles, etc. The bottom is 
 then scraped to the side and 1 tanked up. Thus the 
 land is covered with a quantity of earth basins 
 varying in size from a perch to five acres. The 
 water is then let on to the ground and there it 
 stands, making no trenches, but hundreds of little 
 lakes. Here flourish the rice, the bamboo, and all 
 their crops, in great luxuriance. 
 
 The soil needs no plough. The farmer wields an 
 instrument like our adze. But the handle is long 
 and the blade very deep. Struck into the ground 
 it turns up an immense clod. 
 
 The houses in the villages are very quaint. They 
 are built like the English cottages with enormous 
 thatching for roofs and sometimes a crop growing on 
 the very crest. 
 
 The Dai-Butsu is a mammoth figure sitting on 
 stone. At first constructed of wood, the present 
 bronze image was substituted perhaps six centuries 
 ago. It stood in a spacious temple destroyed about 
 
46 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 four hundred years since by an inundation. The 
 foundations and the Dai-Butsu remain. It represents 
 Buddah seated, his hands meeting in front. The 
 
 THE DAI-BUTSU. 
 
 expression of the eyes and face is very pleasing. The 
 figure is hollow. A small opening at the corner of 
 the foundation permits an entrance. Inside is a 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 47 
 
 ladder by which you can ascend to the neck. From 
 your perch you see a gilded image in the head and 
 three gilded figures on a shelf. It is reported in the 
 books that the eyes are of pure gold, etc. But the 
 sockets appear to be empty. 
 
 Murray in his hand-book says : 
 
 " The DAI-BUTSU, or GEE AT BUDDAH, stands alone 
 "among Japanese works of art. No other gives such an 
 " impression of majesty, or so truly symbolizes the central 
 "idea of Buddhism, the intellectual calm which comes of 
 " perfected knowledge and the subjugation of all passion." 
 
 Mr. Bayard Taylor says in his work " Japan in 
 Our Day," that " The Monument dedicated to Dai- 
 Butsu, that is, the Great Buddha, may be considered 
 as the most complete work of the Japanese genius, in 
 regard both to art and to the religious sentiment 
 ... a gigantic seated divinity of bronze, with 
 folded hands and head gently inclined in an atti- 
 tude of contemplative ecstasy. . . . There is an 
 irresistible charm in the posture of Dai-Butsu, in the 
 harmony of his bodily proportions, in the noble 
 simplicity of his drapery, and in the calmness and 
 serenity of his countenance." 
 
 Mr. A. C. Maclay, A. M., L. L. B., in " A Budget 
 of Letters from Japan," says: " The Dai-Butsu sits 
 there in the open air, his head looming above the 
 pine trees, and his face turned toward the peaceful 
 
48 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 waters of the ocean, typical of the dreamless 
 Nirvana." 
 
 Mr. Percival Lowell says in " The Soul of the 
 Far East," "The Kamakura Buddha, . . . in whose 
 
 YOKOHAMA. A GL1MPSF OF THE FOREIGN QUARTER. 
 
 face all that is grand and noble lies sleeping, the 
 living representation of Nirvana." 
 
 Dr. C. Dresser, Ph. D., F. L. S., etc, in "Japan- 
 Its Architecture," says: " The figure sits in dignified 
 repose with a most placid expression of countenance. 
 
cn ) ti:i: wo.'.i/.) 
 
 49 
 
 TOKIO— A TRAVELING SHRINE AND ITINERANT CHOIR. 
 
50 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 From its forehead protrudes a boss representing a 
 jewel from winch light is supposed to now, and 
 which symbolizes an idea similar to that expressed 
 in our Scriptures, 'I am the Light of the World.'" 
 
 The priests in charge of the monastery declare 
 that it is their endeavor to preserve and embellish 
 the Image and Church and to raise a suitable edifice 
 to contain the Dai-Butsu and protect it from the 
 ravages of time and the effects of the weather so they 
 may faithfully hand down and transmit to posterity 
 this relic of mediaeval days which they have 
 received from their predecessors as a precious and 
 sacred National trust, and it is therefore hoped that 
 in the interest of Religion, Art and History alike, 
 all visitors will kindly make some contribution to 
 the building fund, as Japan is not a rich country, 
 and to collect a sum of money sufficient to carry 
 out the object successfully is at best a work of many 
 years, especially when it is borne in mind that the 
 Meiji Government has confiscated all ecclesiastical 
 possessions and disestablished the Buddhist church, 
 thereby leaving the priests well-nigh penniless. 
 
 There has been a temple in this place since the 
 eighth century, but the image is of much later date. 
 Its precise history is involved in obscurity. Tra- 
 dition, however, says that the Shogun Yoritomo, 
 when taking part in the dedication of the restored 
 Dai-Butsu at Nara, 1195 A. D., to which place he 
 
52 FROM INDEPENDECE HALE 
 
 had been summoned by the Emperor to supervise 
 the ceremony, conceived the desire of having a simi- 
 lar object of worship at his own Capital, but died 
 before he could put his plan into execution. One of 
 his waiting ladies, Itano, undertook to collect funds 
 for the purpose, resigned her appointment, and 
 with the cordial approval of Masago and the Shogun 
 Yoritsugu, worked with such devotion of heart that 
 in 1224 A. D., the priest, Joko (who had collected 
 money far and wide) with the permission of the 
 Emperor, was enabled to commence the first image 
 (which was of wood) and it was completed in 1238 
 A. D. A splendid chapel was also constructed here. 
 In the autumn of 1243 A. D., the chapel was over- 
 thrown by a mighty storm and the image seriously 
 damaged. Again Itano bestirred herself in the w T ork, 
 being assisted by the Shogun, who provided the 
 metal to cast a bronze image, and restored the 
 Temple in all its former splendor. 
 
 The image was commenced in the fourth year of 
 Kencho, the eighth month and the seventeenth day, 
 and the founder was Ono, an artificer" of Yanamura, 
 in the county of Moda, province of Kadzusa. 
 
 This was the first time that such a marvellous 
 piece of metal work had been thus successfully 
 attempted in Japan, and the perfect artistic mastery 
 of form and true beauty and grandeur of outline 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 53 
 
 which characterizes Ono's master-piece, is a wonder- 
 ful triumph of Japanese Glyptic Art. 
 
 The Temple was completely destroyed by storms 
 twice, once in 1335 A. D., and once in 1369 A. D., 
 but was repaired. Again in 1495 A. D., the build- 
 ings were swept away by a tidal wave, but this time 
 the priests were unable to raise funds for their 
 restoration and only the image and the stone founda- 
 tions of the church were left. 
 
 In the period 1711-1715 a Buddhist Archbishop 
 named Yuten rebuilt the priest's residence and a 
 certain Nojima Yasuke furnished money liberally 
 and presented votive bronze lanterns and various 
 ornaments to the church, but. the funds failed and the 
 work of complete restoration w r as abandoned. 
 
 The Measurements oe the Dai-Butsu are: 
 
 Height 
 
 Circumference 
 
 Length of face 
 
 Width from ear to ear 
 
 Round white boss ou forehead 
 
 Length of eye 
 
 Length of eyebrow 
 
 " " ear 
 
 " " nose 
 
 " " mouth 
 Height of bump of wisdom 
 Diameter of bump of wisdom 
 Curls (of which there are 830): 
 
 Length from kuee to knee . 
 Circumference of thumb (say) 
 
 Height 
 Diameter 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 4!) 
 
 7.00 
 
 97 
 
 2.20 
 
 8 
 
 5.15 
 
 17 
 
 9.20 
 
 1 
 
 3.47 
 
 3 
 
 11.60 
 
 4 
 
 1.93 
 
 6 
 
 6.54 
 
 3 
 
 9.22 
 
 3 
 
 2.08 
 
 
 9 52 
 
 2 
 
 4.56 
 
 
 9.52 
 
 
 11.90 
 
 35 
 
 8.40 
 
 3 
 
 0.00 
 
54 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 The eyes were pure gold and the silver boss 
 weighed thirty pounds avoirdupois. The image is 
 formed of sheets of bronze cast separately, brazed 
 together and finished off on the outside with the 
 chisel. 
 
 [The following is a copy of an Ode sold at Kamakura by the Priests.] 
 
 Natsu-kusa ya Tsuwamono Domo no Yume no ato. 1 
 Basho. 
 
 City of dreamland, ruined and sad, 
 Once home of a people joyous and glad. 
 All that is left, "a tale that is told," 
 Temples dismantled and monuments cold. 
 
 Ashes to ashes, dust to dust, 
 Glory departed, swords turned to rust. 
 Weeds, all that is left of hearts brave and gay 
 Who 'erst to the battle went marching away. 
 
 Citadel perished, towers fallen away, 
 Fortress and temple doomed to decay, 
 Courtier and warrior in panoply bright 
 Passed like a shadowy dream of the night. 
 
 Oh Buddha Eterual ! Thus come we and go. 
 
 Fleeting is matter, " Sho-gyo-mujo." 2 
 Such were thy words, " What waxeth must wane," 
 After calm there is storm, after sunshine the rain. 
 " Naught is a permanence," glory but show 
 
 That leads to destruction, " Zesho Meppo." 3 
 
 1 A dream of the past! In place of warriors, the grassland 
 plants of summer. 
 
 2 All phenomena are evanescent. 
 
 3 They are subject to the law of growth and decay. 
 
56 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 OK 10— Formerly Yed- 
 do, the capital of the 
 Empire, requires a visit, 
 although the expendi- 
 ture of time, muscle and 
 money finds but little 
 reward, the usually false 
 coloring of books and 
 the cackle of travellers 
 to the contrary. Those who have plenty of time, 
 money and curiosity, yet possessing little brains, 
 make it a vital point to laud everything they 
 have seen and sometimes that they have not 
 seen. This in their judgment magnifies their own 
 importance. Then they encounter a traveller for 
 rest or for health, who has but a short vacation and 
 wants simply to see a little in order to break the 
 ennui of desired repose, they pounce upon him as a 
 fair victim. He must see tJds, he should on no 
 account miss that, is it possible he has come such a 
 distance and is to omit the other? To the class of 
 traveling musquitoes just described, the omission to 
 visit Tokio would be little short of high treason. 
 Yet like many enforced routines it does not pay. It 
 is a very large city, prettily situated on a bay. It 
 recalls John Randolph's sarcasm on our capital as a 
 city of magnificent distances. Some describe it as 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 57 
 
 twenty-four miles in circumference, others say it is 
 ten miles square. Standing on Atago-yama (a hill) 
 the town seems to be of huge proportions. The 
 
 TOKIO— A VIEW ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF THE CITY. 
 
 It has a large and busy 
 
 streets are generally wide. 
 
 population, possesses one line of omnibusses and a 
 
 tram road. 
 
58 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 
 
 The horses are few and very thin. Occasionally 
 you see a large ox pulling a load. The thousands 
 of houses are of frame two stories high. There is a 
 splendid castle, fine government buildings, an 
 Imperial Hotel that well deserves its name, old 
 walls and moat, new walls and moat, two parks, 
 Sheba and Veno (pronounced Wayno), a museum, 
 tomb of Shogun and a number of temples. It may 
 safely be stated that all of these might be omitted 
 by the sight-seer without occasioning a regret. But 
 if a Pagoda is new to him, he will find one here. It 
 is a very interesting structure, not large nor high, 
 yet to an American very attractive. It is red. The 
 large projecting roofs, five in number, are covered 
 with what looks like tiling. Bells hang from each 
 corner. Carvings line each cornice. 
 
 A river called the Sumida runs through the city. 
 Here as everywhere in Japan the traveller is 
 attracted by the peace, the good order, the industry, 
 the thrift, the sobriety, the great contentment of 
 the working classes. Beyond all attractions of 
 temples or ruins, the country certainly possesses the 
 great charm of a happy and law-abiding popula- 
 tion. 
 
 Besides the places described there are other cities 
 in Japan of considerable importance. 
 
 Nikko contains the burial place of a Shogun, a 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 59 
 
 fine mausoleum, a celebrated pagoda and a copper 
 column. 
 
 Miyanoshita, famous for its beautiful scenery. 
 
 NIKKO. 
 
 Nagasaki, one of the finest harbors in the world. 
 Osaka, the Liverpool of Japan. 
 Kobe, on the Inland Sea. 
 
60 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 Importations of Words by the Japanese. — The 
 natives of this Empire have been so blessed by 
 Providence that before their European and American 
 experiences they did not use soap, bread or hats. 
 
 Their hot springs enabled them to preserve great 
 cleanliness, their plants supplied all they ate and 
 with the exception of some slight head gear worn 
 by the lower classes they went without hats. 
 
 Hence they to-day call soap, shavon; bread, pan, 
 and hats, chapeau. Every one has heard that lunch 
 is termed tiffin. 
 
 Japanese Railroads. — Japan can already boast 
 over thirteen different lines of railroads, extending 
 beyond 1000 miles. The speed is not very great. 
 The cars are divided into classes. The difference 
 between the first and second classes is only in the 
 color of the seat covers. The fares are very reason- 
 able and the service good. 
 
 The falls of Katsuragawa are regarded by many 
 as very wonderful. The traveller is carried rapidly 
 down a dozen cascades. The boat is staunch. No 
 accidents are reported. When the season favors, 
 three or more feet of water are found in the shallow- 
 est places. To preserve the depth, stone walls are 
 built at the sides of some of the descents. The boats 
 are pulled back to the top by men with long ropes, 
 another steering up stream. It takes over four hours 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 61 
 
 to retrace the passage which occupied only one 
 hour. 
 
 The Inland Sea of Japan is one of the few 
 sights which really pays for the trouble of a visit. 
 
 GENERAL VIEW OF KOBE. 
 
 It is reached by the steamers plying westward from 
 Yokohama to Kobe. This voyage takes about twenty- 
 five hours. The boat stops some time. Kobe stands, 
 like most of the cities of Japan, on a terraced plain 
 
62 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 surrounded by high mountains. In clear weather 
 the view is very picturesque. 
 
 From Kobe the steamer proceeds over the Inland 
 Sea to Nagasaki. The voyage takes about twenty-six 
 hours and affords a succession of beautiful views. The 
 sea is sometimes ten or twenty miles in width, then 
 
 it narrow's to 
 t w o miles, 
 mountains al- 
 ways on both 
 sides. At 
 times a num. 
 ber of islands 
 appear, then 
 a huge castle 
 rock with an 
 arched door- 
 way opens 
 from side to 
 side. 
 
 It is very 
 suggestive of 
 the Archipelago on the coast of Norway. The bay 
 of Nagasaki and the city make a very pleasing pic- 
 ture. The town has an old temple on a high hill. 
 As is often the case in Japan, you pass under a 
 beam supported some fifty feet from the ground by 
 columns, making an entrance forty feet wide. This 
 
 OSWA TEMPLE, NAGASAKI. 
 
ABOUND THE WOBLD 
 
 63 
 
 however, does not usher you into the temple but 
 simply to a flight of steps leading to another cross- 
 piece with similar supports, and so you pass through 
 a number of portals. At Nagasaki the first was all 
 bronze, the second and third stone. 
 
 From Nagasaki a westward course leads on to 
 -China and you reach Shanghai, 450 miles, in thirty- 
 six hours. 
 
64 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 CHINA. 
 
 Latitude of Hong Kong N. 22°. 
 Difference in Clocks. — Noon at Philadelphia, 
 12.50 A. M. at Hong Kong. 
 
 Fares from Yokohama to Calcutta, one ticket, $281. If to 
 Hong Kong, $60; if from Hong Kong to Colombo, $190, but 
 if one ticket from Yokohama to Colombo, $225. The dollars 
 above noted are silver dollars worth in fall of 1S94 only fifty 
 cents. The fare in gold is, therefore, one half of the above 
 rates. 
 
 HANGHAI is 
 up a river. 
 
 over fourteen miles 
 The steamer anchors 
 in the bay, a tug carries the pas- 
 sengers and luggage. The voyage 
 of an hour and a half brings to 
 mind the low flat shores of the 
 Delaware. Some men-of-war are 
 stationed here. The city front is 
 attractive. No miserable, narrow 
 Water street, but a wide avenue 
 called the " Bund " with large 
 stone and brick offices, agencies, 
 etc., greets the stranger with as- 
 surance of business enterprise. The city is Chinese 
 only in name. The English, French and Americans 
 have their respective quarters and the British police- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 65 
 
 man stalks the streets. All the servants at the 
 hotels are Chinamen, receiving about ten cents a day 
 for their kind attention to you. A large import of 
 cotton ' was at the wharf. One hears of factories 
 which are to inundate the United States with cheap 
 fabrics. 
 
 The climate is cold in winter but not very hot in 
 summer. From statements of those who have 
 resided here for years it is quite as objectionable as 
 Philadelphia for a winter residence but the heat of 
 July and August is not so severe as with us. 
 
 The Chinese have no jurisdiction over foreigners 
 and all litigation in which the English, French and 
 Americans are concerned is conducted before their 
 own courts. 
 
 The marks of English enterprise are exhibited not 
 only in the stately and columned buildings they 
 have erected but in the development of factories. 
 
 The Chinese have also been busy. Jessfield, 
 formerly a deserted suburb of Shanghai, is now the 
 scene of a thriving industry. It is termed the Hing 
 Chong Silk Filature. It is situated on the right of 
 the Soochow Creek and covers quite a large area. 
 
 A short time ago this was open country. The 
 establishment is the property of a Chinese Company 
 under the direction of Mr. Kienchong and Mr. 
 Maertens. Over eight hundred women and children 
 are employed on 300 reels and basins. When the 
 
66 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 cocoons are delivered from the interior they are 
 carefully inspected and classified. The large white 
 and even cocoons are ranked as No. 1. 
 
 A girl is assigned to every two women. The duty 
 of the child is to immerse the cocoons in boiling 
 
 PEKING. THE ENTRANCE TO THE IMPERIAL PALACE. 
 
 water and hand them to the women who reel off 
 the silk. The system of charging and accounting is 
 stated to be so perfect that it is almost impossible 
 for any of the property to be secreted. 
 
 The machinery is principally of Italian make, the 
 water is supplied by the creek, the lighting is by 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 67 
 
 electricity and the mill is to be run, says the Shang- 
 hai paper, night and day, except two months in the 
 year. Ten hours make a day's work. 
 
 The enterprise is in able hands and promises well. 
 
 The man-puller receives here even less than in 
 Japan. Fifty cents a day for him and his gig is the 
 rate. 
 
 On such a wage scale American manufacturers 
 must anticipate a terrible competition, and with 
 free-trade to help the foreign pauper-laborers the 
 American workman may starve. This will perhaps 
 be made more manifest by the study of the report of 
 the British Consul, Mr. Enslie, as to the trade in 
 Osaka for 1893. He says: 
 
 " Anyone visiting Osaka now after a lapse of 
 many years cannot fail to be struck with the 
 enormous change which has taken place in the city 
 and suburbs. It was always considered the com- 
 mercial capital of Japan, but now it may be termed 
 the Manchester of that progressive country. Twenty 
 years ago there was but a single chimney stack in 
 the place, which belonged to the mint, but now 
 shafts rise by hundreds and the air is black with 
 the smoke they emit. Twenty years ago, also, there 
 was but one cotton-spinning mill in the neighbor- 
 hood of Osaka, situated at Sakai, some nine miles dis- 
 tant and that was of very limited capacity, but at the 
 close of 1893 there were numerous cotton mills in 
 
68 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 the district with every prospect of a rapid increase, 
 for the Japanese ' government, with great wisdom 
 and forethought, fosters and encourages industries 
 of all sorts, having the welfare of the people 
 thoroughly at heart." 
 
 The rapid spread of the cotton industry in Japan 
 has had a remarkable effect upon the import of raw 
 cotton. Ten years ago, though cotton mills had 
 made a good start, the quantity imported was small, 
 as it only amounted to 2,808,348 pounds, of the 
 value of 247,506 yen for the whole of Japan, 
 whereas in 1893 the import increased to 154,442,368 
 pounds, of the value of 16,151,570 yen, and of this 
 quantity the Hiogo and Osaka districts absorbed 
 no less than 99,321,825 pounds, or eighty three per 
 cent., being an excess of nearly 19,000,000 pounds 
 on the import of the previous year. On the other 
 hand the advance of the cotton spinning industry 
 had an adverse effect on the foreign yarn trade, for 
 in 1883 the import was 32,854,166 pounds against 
 25,873,536 pounds in 1893, and it is very certain 
 that the current year will show a still greater falling 
 off in this respect. 
 
 Moreover the leading industry of Japan shows an 
 exceptionally good profit to the spinner, and though 
 mills are on the increase their products are steadily 
 increasing in demand so that there is every prospect 
 of the business continuing highly remunerative. 
 
ABOUND THE WORLD 71 
 
 The figures quoted by Mr. Enslie must be a 
 revelation to Manchester. The following estimate is 
 given of producing a bale of No. 20 yarn of left twist, 
 selling in the market at ninety -two yen: 
 
 Price of middling Bombay cotton . Yen 54 
 
 Cost of spinning .... 10 
 
 Allowance for waste, etc. . . 8 
 
 Balance (profit) ..... 20 
 
 Yen 92 
 
 That this estimate is not at all exaggerated is 
 evidenced by the fact that the leading mills of the 
 district have paid enormous dividends to their share- 
 holders. The Osaka and Temma Cotton Spinning 
 Companies have each paid an annual dividend of 
 ten per cent.; the Amagaski ten and a half per cent.; 
 the Naniwa twelve and a half per cent., and the 
 Hirano and Shenshiu Companies each paid the 
 astonishing dividend of twenty per cent. Mr. Enslie 
 also quotes figures showing the profit accruing dur- 
 ing the second half of the year under review to 
 cotton mills for every spindle worked, which in the 
 case of nineteen such establishments selected ranged 
 from yen 1.53 to yen 5.80, and he adds that "much 
 confidence is expressed with regard to still larger 
 profits during the ensuing six months, as the 
 demand is generally in excess of the supply." 
 
 The Japan mills are worked upon very sound 
 principles, and in the majority of cases the owners 
 5 
 
72 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 have framed rules and regulations for the comfort 
 and convenience of the vast number of operatives 
 employed which are highly creditable to them, and 
 
 LI HUNG CHANG, PRIME MINISTER OF CHINA. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 73 
 
 were more especially necessary as most of the mills 
 worked day and night without intermission. This 
 state of prosperity has recently received a slight 
 check owing to the war, and the night work has 
 
 ■ : 1 
 
 A CHINESE PLOUGHMAN. 
 
 ceased, but it is hoped that this will only be 
 temporary. 
 
 The trade between China and Japan has long 
 labored under serious difficulties, and it was not 
 profitable, because not only was an import duty paid 
 on the raw cotton but an export duty was levied on 
 
PROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 the yarn exported. The attention of the Japanese 
 government was called to the disabilities under 
 which the spinners labored, and the export duty 
 was cancelled, so that a brisk and profitable trade 
 at once sprang up which was promptly nipped in 
 the bud by the Chinese authorities when the war 
 broke out, by the imposition of a prohibitive lekin 
 tax. It is probable that when peace is established 
 the Japanese government will take steps to have 
 this withdrawn, and then no doubt Japan will 
 supply the Chinese consumer with yarn in large 
 quantities, which will be in effect an exchange for 
 the raw cotton they purchase from them. 
 
 Contrast the fostering care which the Japanese 
 Government exercises over this important and 
 growing industry with the action of the Chinese 
 authorities. Cotton mills would extend and flourish 
 in China as much as they do in Japan, did the of- 
 ficials encourage their establishment as they ought 
 to do, but here the greed of the officials stands in 
 the way of the welfare of the people, and the indus- 
 try, which should benefit the millions, is only used 
 as a monopoly to benefit their rapacious rulers. By 
 ignorance, obstinacy, cruel oppression and extortion 
 they crush all enterprise and obstruct the com- 
 mercial advancement of the nation. 
 
76 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 Chinese aversion to hunting. — After foxes had 
 become an affair of the past in Philadelphia, some 
 of our horsemen — who ape the English — established 
 the sport of paper hunting. A member of the party 
 was sent ahead to distribute small pieces of paper. 
 After his allowance of time expired the so-called 
 hounds started in pursuit. They paid no regard to 
 fences or enclosures, and rode yelling across the 
 country, regardless of private rights and public 
 peace. On one occasion — so runs the history — they 
 came like a thunder-bolt into the newly sown field 
 of one of our best physicians and noblest of citizens. 
 He started from his library with his double-barelled 
 gun, and soon taught the imitators of English lords 
 that there was a slight difference between a peasant 
 who should feel honored " you know" by the destruc- 
 tion of his crops, and the gentleman who occupied a 
 somewhat different position. 
 
 See how history repeats itself. Our English 
 cousins have been trying the fox hunting and the 
 paper scattering business near Shanghai, but with 
 something of the same disappointment. The Graphic 
 of October 30, 1894, represents Chinese farmers lay- 
 ing in wait for the hunters, with sickles ready to 
 wound the ponies. In another cartoon, a bridge of 
 a single plank is defended by a rough, armed with 
 a big brush and a bigger bucket of filth. But worst 
 of all, in a third picture, a dismounted lord loses 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 77 
 
 his pony and is attacked by an army of Amazons, 
 armed with brooms and shoes. The paper thus 
 describes the sport: 
 
 "During the long Shanghai winter, paper-hunting 
 is the most popular 
 sport with riders who 
 do not mind a little 
 rough work across 
 country. 
 
 An hour or so be- 
 fore the advertised 
 start of a hunt, the 
 foxes, who are always 
 the winners of the 
 previous chase, a c- 
 companied by a few 
 friends, and two or 
 three mafoos (Chinese 
 grooms), set out to lay 
 the paper. This is 
 scattered thickly at short intervals, especially on 
 graves and other raised ground, while one or more 
 checks are given by leaving a gap in the paper or 
 laying a false scent. The distance covered varies 
 from eight to twelve miles, the finish, which is 
 generally a few yards after a good jump, being 
 shown by two flags, between which the hunt must 
 ride. 
 
 PEKING, A LADY OF QUALITY. 
 
78 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 The object of the hunt is not to catch the foxes, 
 and there are always stewards in charge to start 
 the field and collect it when paper cannot be 
 found, also that after crossing a bridge the foremost 
 riders wait for the rest, and to look after the hunt 
 generally. 
 
 The prize for the light and heavy weight win- 
 ners (the latter having to finish in the first six), 
 is a small cup or an engraved sovereign, and by cus- 
 tom, only winners of hunts are allowed to wear pink. 
 
 The ponies for this work are bred in Mongolia, 
 and are sent down in mobs to Shanghai when five 
 or six years old. There the "griffins," as they are 
 technically called, are usually put up to auction, 
 with their rough coats on and untried, and are 
 bought principally with a view to racing, the prices 
 varying from thirty to two hundred taels, the tael, 
 at the present low rate of exchange, being equal to 
 about 2s. 9d. They are all geldings; no mares are 
 allowed to leave Mongolia, as the natives wish to 
 keep the monopoly of the breeding. As a rule they 
 are good weight carriers, and can race carrying 
 eleven stone or more, while twelve stone is a very 
 ordinary weight for them to carry across country. 
 They generally take kindly to jumping, and show a 
 great keenness for sport. 
 
 The country is sparsely wooded and extremely flat, 
 the principal raised ground being Chinese graves, 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 79 
 
 which are simply grassy mounds, like the ancient 
 harrows in Europe. There are several of these 
 in each field, and coffins are strewn about " promis- 
 cuous," which might have a depressing effect, were 
 it not such an everv-dav sight. Numerous creeks 
 
 PEKING. AN UMBRELLA MENI 
 
 of all sizes run in every direction, and have to be 
 crossed every few hundred yards by either jump- 
 ing, wading, or on stone bridges of about three 
 feet in width. There are also numerous dry-cuts, but 
 no hedges and only a very occasional mud wall of 
 two or three feet high. Wheat, cotton, and rice are 
 the principal crops, and nearly every field is cut into 
 ridge and furrow, galloping on smooth grass land 
 being quite unknown. 
 
80 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 The natives, it is to be feared, are prejudiced 
 against paper hunters; and, indeed, it is hardly to be 
 wondered at, for, although there is a fund for com- 
 pensating them for any damage done to crops, etc., as 
 the money has to pass through the hands of Chinese 
 officials it is more than probable that only a very 
 minute portion of the original donation reaches 
 those it was intended for. They show their ill will 
 in various ways, for instance, by digging holes and 
 tying bushes together on the further sides of jumps, 
 gathering up the paper and laying it across impos- 
 sible places ; and woe betide the luckless hunter who 
 comes to grief and whose pony falls in their hands; 
 he may consider himself lucky if he only has to pay 
 through the nose before he gets his mount back. At 
 the finish of most hunts there is a traditional old 
 woman with a hoe, who makes herself generally 
 objectionable until pacified by a silver bribe." 
 
 No mail service in China. — We were told at 
 Shanghai that there was no Chinese mail service. 
 The English have put up street boxes and distribute 
 letters within their jurisdiction. But if you wish to 
 mail to home or to any foreign port the Consul's 
 office must be visited. There is a postal agency 
 where you can buy the stamps of your country and 
 your letters can be dropped into the box in that 
 room. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 81 
 
 No civilized conveniences. — There is no under- 
 ground drainage save for rain. Each person must 
 accommodate himself to the enforced drill of a sick 
 man and take his chances with an earth commode. 
 
 Peking. — If a man burn with the desire to see a 
 wretched hole, and is willing to incur the risks of 
 
 PEKING. A TYPICAL STREET VIEW. 
 
 being stoned, besides enduring fearful hardships, let 
 him penetrate to the Celestial capital. 
 
 The best communication now is by boat from 
 
82 FKOM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 Shanghai to Tientsin. This voyage is made in a 
 steamer arranged for freight, with a small cabin 
 boasting of no state-rooms or comforts. After enjoy- 
 ing this stately trip for two days and three nights, 
 you can reach a railroad, which, if not meanwhile 
 torn up, will carry you fifty miles further. Thence 
 forward for two days more, travelling in palanquin 
 or on horseback, not knowing what will become of 
 your baggage — or your carcass, you may, by the 
 mercy of Providence, reach your destination, with 
 reasonable certainty of not returning during the 
 winter months. Here near the southern gate you 
 will see a fine tower erected on a wall about forty 
 feet high and thirty feet thick, faced with large 
 bricks. The wall embraces a square of sixteen miles, 
 counting all its sides. It has nine gates, of which the 
 front is the largest. All these are shut shortly after 
 sunset. Climbing the wall to enter Peking is pun- 
 ished by death; leaving it in that style is simply 
 banishment. The streets are rectangular, the long- 
 est being about four miles. Some of them are very 
 wide, but the residents pile on them their wares, and 
 throw on them all imaginable filth. The carts are 
 heavy. One cannot even indulge in the luxury of a 
 jinkrickshaw. These conveyances were introduced 
 sometime since but the conservative Chinese threw 
 them into the ditch. 
 
 After a rain the city is a vast mud-puddle. When 
 
DAGOBA IN THE TiEN-LING-SZ'. 
 
 TEMPLE OF CELESTIAL INFLUENCE, LYING WEST OF PEKING. 
 
 This monument was erected in the Sui dynasty about 600 A. D., and has many Hindu figures. 
 
84 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 the moisture dries the dust is intolerable. Yet it is 
 said that the inhabitants owe to this latter annoy- 
 ance the continuance of their lives as without the 
 wind and dust the putrefactions would speedily de- 
 stroy all life. 
 
 In this Paradise dwells the "Brother of the Sun," 
 
 A CHINESE FAMILY ON A PLEASURE TRIP. 
 
 and here perforce reside foreign legations. The 
 missionaries are active, and it is to be hoped that 
 their preaching may tend to the cleanliness which 
 is next to Godliness. 
 
 As the native all over takes to billiards and ten- 
 
86 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 pins, there is hope for his reformation in other mat- 
 ters. It has been suggested that the alacrity with 
 which the Japanese have become civilized is owing 
 to their tolertion of alcohol, whereas the Chinese 
 and Turks abjure it, and remain stagnant. The tea 
 saloons and opium dens have been so often described 
 that it is not necessary to notice them. 
 
 Credulity of Chinese. — Although a wary, and in 
 many cases a shrewd people, the Chinese are, like all 
 others, more or less liable to imposition. One of them 
 dissatisfied with the recent defeats, had evidently 
 received some very curious items of consolation. 
 When jeered by an exultant Japanese, he quickly 
 availed himself of his reply. "You no ready for 
 light," said the Japanese, "we beatee you bery 
 quick." The Chinaman waxed hot; "you no 
 beatee, your Emperor marry sister of de French 
 kingee, the Frenchee he beatee us." 
 
 The Chinese art of healing. — Nothing can be 
 imagined more satisfactory than the practice of 
 medicine in China. The patient is offered a num- 
 ber of papers. He selects one. The physician 
 writes something on it and this is the remedy. The 
 pharmaccepia is extensive. Every herb is used for 
 a tea or poultice. But other remedies are invoked. 
 A piece of the skin of an elephant and the tooth of 
 
88 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 a rhinocerous, powdered and well mixed make a fav- 
 orite medicine for rheumatism. 
 
 From Shanghai to Hong Kong is about 800 
 miles. The voyage is made in fifty-five hoars. The 
 steamer is most of the time in sight of land. The 
 mountains, islands and fishing boats make a 
 picturesque scene. Hong Kong is an island about 
 eleven miles long, and in circumference about 
 twenty-seven miles. The harbor is surrounded by 
 mountains and reminds the traveller of Santiago de 
 Cuba. The city is English. The principal hotel 
 offices and business buildings are very imposing. 
 
 Canton is distant five hours by steamer from 
 Hong Kong. It is about two miles in breadth and 
 six in circumference. It is renowned for its manu- 
 factures, jade cutting, lacquer ware, cut glass, silk, 
 its five storied Pagoda, water clock, the denseness 
 of its population — estimated at 1,600,000 — the 
 narrowness and filth of its streets, and the danger 
 to foreigners. The English occupy a little island 
 with a moat. At night the bridges are drawn up. 
 The government undertakes to protect that spot. 
 Beyond its lines you insure yourself. The thorough- 
 fares surpass St. Giles. About fifteen feet in width, 
 a gutter in the center, the pedestrian can touch the 
 houses on each side. The buildings are very high 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 and so is the death rate in time of pestilence. I 
 am told that at such periods 1000 per day is not an 
 unusual mortality. 
 
 Misrule in China. — It would perhaps be difficult 
 to find on earth a people more capable of achieving 
 greatness than the Chinese. Patient, industrious, 
 economical, pains-taking, submissive, their empire 
 could under proper management easily assume its 
 appropriate place. But it is misgoverned. The 
 Emperor is a young man about twenty-four years 
 of age, ambitious to do his whole duty. His mother 
 and courtiers rule him. He has no time to examine 
 or correct abuses. He is roused early to go through 
 religious ceremonials. Then he must receive scores 
 of officials. He rarely leaves his palace grounds. 
 When he goes out, four or five times a year, the super- 
 visors of highways have ample notice, they know 
 his route, employ thousands of men, the roads are 
 put in splendid condition, strewn with sand, and 
 the monarch supposes it is thus always. The mis- 
 management of the military department surpasses 
 conception. Shells have been filled with burned 
 berries, coffee, anything that would resemble 
 powder. Cannon balls have actually been made of 
 clay and painted black. Worthless muskets 
 purchased for the price of old iron have been sold 
 to the government for ten to twelve dollars each. 
 
90 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 A merchant was asked why he did not subscribe to 
 the loan. He said that he kept his wealth where 
 the mandarin could not find it and squeeze him. 
 
 THE DECORATED PORTAL IN THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA, NEAR PEKING. 
 
 An English gentleman stated that he had been 
 requested to accompany a general on a tour ot 
 inspection. The commander of the fort was 
 informed by some runner that his superior was 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 91 
 
 coming. Everything was as usual, dirt and con- 
 fusion. Men were set instantly at work to polish 
 the cannons. But what was to be done with the 
 accumulations of filth and rubbish. As a happy 
 thought they were crammed into the pieces. 
 
 When the inspection was in progress the Chinese 
 official asked the Englishman's opinion. He 
 answered that he would like to examine the inside 
 of the guns. Then came the revelation. 
 
 Speaking English. — Few of them can undertake 
 to talk to a foreigner, others profess to do so but can 
 only utter Iz for Yes. 
 
 A gentleman narrates his experience at Hong 
 Kong somewhat in this fashion. He entered a store 
 and asked if the man spoke English. The usual 
 reply was made. The traveller said, Have you so 
 and so? 
 
 Chinese — Iz. 
 
 Traveller (Looking around) — But you have not 
 got it. 
 
 Chinese — Iz. 
 
 Traveller — You say you have it? 
 
 Chinese — Iz. 
 
 Traveller — And then you say you have not got it? 
 
 Chinese — Iz. 
 
 Traveller — What do you mean? Do you take me 
 for a fool ? 
 
92 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 Chinese — Iz. 
 
 They generally understand, however, sufficient to 
 rule their employers. 
 
 They insist upon every member of a family 
 having his or her separate riksha and the same 
 men will not serve two different persons. A lady 
 remarked that she wanted her husband's pull-man 
 to go with her. The answer came promptly, "No, 
 no, you no be my pidgeon." Thus a family of five 
 will require thirty servants. 
 
 Religion of China and Japan. — With all that 
 has been written on the subject, it is astonishing 
 that there should be so much ignorance. Some 
 fiercely contend that the two nations are all 
 idolaters, others assert to the contrary. Some will 
 say the Chinese are all Confucians; and then a 
 blank ignorance as to Confucius and his teachings 
 fills up the picture with any back-ground the 
 imagination may supply. The truth is that Con- 
 fucius never asserted a Divine origin, different in 
 any respect from other mortals. He was born B. C. 
 551, and was simply a great philosopher. His 
 favorite saying was, " Reading without thought is 
 fruitless, thought without reading is dangerous." 
 Of himself he wrote, " I am an editor, not an 
 author." He never rose to greater dignity than to be 
 Governor of his native province, La. His teaching 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 93 
 
 was simply an elevated materialism. It served as a 
 connection between Buddhism and Taoism. These 
 three religions, now called the San Kiao, are com- 
 bined in the religion of China to-day. Taoism was 
 
 SHANGHAI— A CHINESE TEMPLE. 
 
 founded by Li-erl, who preceded Confucius, and was 
 also his contemporary. He called his system Tan, 
 "Reason," and taught a future state among the Genii. 
 Doctor Martin states that the Taoist priests instruct 
 their believers as to the best localities for building and 
 
94 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 for burial and that they only can secure others from 
 evil spirits. Confucius on the contrary advised " to 
 keep the gods at a distance," and when he had 
 finished his "Sacred Books" at the age of seventy, 
 he returned thanks to Shangti, the "Supreme Ruler," 
 for the ability to accomplish this great work. The 
 five objects of veneration now are Shangti, the earth, 
 the Emperor, parents and teachers. Shangti is 
 worshipped only by the Emperor. There are no 
 idols at his shrine. A simple tablet bears the name 
 " Supreme Ruler." A bullock is burned and the 
 Monarch worships before the sacrifice. Had this 
 remained uncorrupted, the idolatry taught by the 
 three religions San Kiao would never have adultera- 
 ted Shangti into the saint-worship of Buddhism or 
 the degradation of Taoism. Confucius further taught 
 the most exalted reverence for parents. All that the 
 child could earn or do belonged to the father. 
 
 ]Sor did the slavery end with life. After the 
 parent's death there must be lavish obsequies and 
 ancestral worship. A considerable portion of eveu 
 the Emperor's time is devoted to the worship of his 
 ancestors. 
 
 Buddhism, as it prevails in Japan, teaches in its 
 "Diamond Classics," four great truths. 
 
 1. That all existence, being sorrow, must be ex- 
 tinguished. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 95 
 
 2. That all existence arises from attachment to 
 life or desire. 
 
 3. That existence may be extinguished by de- 
 stroying desire. 
 
 4. That this can only be accomplished by 
 Nirvana. 
 
 Buddha is a title meaning "The Enlightened." 
 His name was Gautama. He lived some centuries 
 B. C. Doctor Eitel gives the legends which surround 
 Buddha, with the incidents mentioned in the life of 
 Christ ascertained in the Gospels. He is described 
 as born of a Virgin, as transfigured, as descending 
 to Hell, ascending to Heaven, and with every par- 
 ticular in the Saviour's life, save the crucifixion. 
 
 Hence the skeptic attacks Christianity as a count- 
 erfeit. But alas for the infidel, every particle of 
 this legend is of modern origin. The most ancient 
 chronicles contain no trace of this tissue of inven- 
 tion, and no Buddhist history in existence can take 
 rank in age with the Gospels. 
 
 The Veda, the oldest code of Asia, taught the 
 doctrines of metempsychosis and ultimate absorption 
 into Brahma. His priests originated the idea of 
 caste, from their desire to be identified with Deity. 
 
 Buddhism intended to reform Brahmanism by 
 abolishing caste, and declared that the means to 
 annihilate self, was "the path to Nirvana." Dr. 
 Eitel states that as long as 2000 years ago, Budd- 
 
96 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 hism "attained to the Darwinian idea of a pre-exist- 
 ing spontaneous tendency to variation as the real 
 cause of the origin of species, but like Darwin and 
 his school, it stopped short of pointing out Him 
 who originated the first commencement of that so- 
 called spontaneous tendency." The student will 
 find this whole subject and many other interesting 
 topics, connected with "The Philosophy of Civili- 
 zation," most beautifully discussed in a work bearing 
 that title, published in 1889, by Jan Helenus Fer- 
 guson, a native of Holland, author of "The Red 
 Cross Alliance at Sea," and of a "Manual of Inter- 
 national Law." Mr. Ferguson, after serving his 
 government in various capacities, has, for the last 
 twenty-two years, filled with great credit, the post 
 of Minister Resident to China. 
 
 Real Estate Sales in China are made through 
 "middlemen," or agents. After the middleman has 
 arranged the terms of the sale, the grantor executes a 
 deed describing the property, and setting forth the 
 terms of the contract. To this deed the middlemen, 
 of whom there are sometimes several, append their 
 seals as witnesses and as guarantors of title. Deeds 
 are of two kinds, white (written on white paper,) and 
 red (written on red paper). When real estate is 
 conveyed by white deed, the transfer is not recorded 
 in the government books, but remains in the name 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 of the previous owner. When real estate is con- 
 veyed by red deed, the sale is recorded, and tax 
 receipts are thereafter issued in the name of actual 
 owner. A tax of 3 per cent, is charged on the pur- 
 
 HONG-KONG. QUEEN'S ROAD, SHANGHAI BANK AND BEACONSF1ELD ARCADE. 
 
 chase money (payable by purchaser), for this record. 
 It is the duty of the recording official to examine 
 the title, and record is a guarantee thereof. In buy- 
 ing land it is customary to recieve all deeds inter- 
 vening between the grantor's deed and the original 
 owner as recorded in the government book. 
 
98 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 Sales are usually made by white deed to save the 
 government charge of 3 per cent. 
 
 Upon death of the owner property is held in 
 common by the family, and in case of a division, a 
 larger share is given to the oldest son for maintain- 
 ing the ancestral worship. 
 
 The father has an almost unlimited power over 
 his family. He can hand the son over to death and 
 sell the daughter to slavery. 
 
 This authority passes in effect to the oldest son on 
 the death of the father. In a recent case a younger 
 son could only be relieved from the danger of death 
 by amputation of the diseased limb. But the older 
 brother forbade the performance of the operation and 
 the patient died. 
 
 The administration of justice is proverbially cor- 
 rupt and all the divisions of the government suffer 
 from this taint. The high officials receive almost 
 nothing from the State but they make immense in- 
 comes by selling patronage, promotions, etc. The 
 Hoppo of Canton (the customs official) receives an 
 insignificant salary but has, from the other sources) 
 an income of several millions a year. 
 
 The imports and exports in foreign ships or under 
 foreign flags are in the hands of Sir Robert Hart, 
 an Englishman. He collects as export and import 
 duties approximately 5 per cent, ad valorem on all 
 goods in foreign bottoms or under foreign flags. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 99 
 
 This he pays over honestly to the central govern- 
 ment. Last year this revenue amounted to 22,000,- 
 
 SHANGHAI— A MARKET PLACE. 
 
 000 of customs Taels, approximately 22,000,000 of 
 gold dollars. 
 
 The Opium Dens have been so often described 
 that like most of the scenes a stranger meets, the 
 picture is worn thread-bare. Every scribbler thinks 
 he can describe better than his predecessor a scene 
 
100 
 
 FROM [N-DEPENDENCB HALL 
 
 which really requires no description. Why paint 
 anew the listless eyes and dormant forms of a set of 
 opium smokers? Why tell everybody for the thous- 
 
 CHINESE MERCHANT AND FAMILY. 
 
 andth time that the laborers in these hot holes wear 
 only a girdle round their hips and that the women 
 in some of these places have rings round their 
 ankles? 
 
AROUND THR WORLD 
 
 101 
 
 FROM CHINA TO CALCUTTA. 
 
 'N the preceding pages the fares 
 have already been given as far as 
 Colombo. From Colombo to Cal- 
 cutta the charge for first-class 
 accommodation is 120 rupees — 
 about $30. 
 
 The first stopping place of the 
 French steamers westward from 
 Hong Kong is Saigon, 919 miles 
 — sixty-three hours, 
 igon is described as having 14,000 
 ibitants, with 80,000 or 100,000 in 
 its surroundings. It is the chief city of 
 Cochin-China and the seat of the Governor-General 
 of Indo-China. It is situated on an arm of the 
 Dong-Nai between two other streams, and has been 
 wonderfully changed within the last few years by 
 France. She has filled the marshes, opened streets 
 and boulevards, built a splendid palace for the 
 Governor, a cathedral, a hospital, schools, an arsenal, 
 stores, a botanical garden, an observatory, etc. The 
 citadel dates from the reign of Gia-Long. It is the 
 work of French officers who were in his employ. 
 
102 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 The port is accessible to the largest ships and is 
 furnished with a floating dock. (Condensed trans- 
 lation of Mr. Lanier's excellent work entitled 
 "L'Asie"). 
 
 The traveller finds himself in a port forty miles 
 
 A TAMIL MERCHANT AND HIS FAMILY. 
 
 from the sea. The scenery has no striking features, 
 save to an American. The trees are different from 
 his willows, pines, cedars and shrubs. Here are the 
 Banyan with its everlasting roots — reminding one 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 103 
 
 of the glorious Bacon — who drew from this tree his 
 magnificent simile of the eternity of the soul. Here 
 also are the towering palms reaching their heads 
 
 SINGAPORE. A GROUP OF MALAY LADIES. 
 
 towards Heaven, and all the flora of the tropics. 
 The heat is at times oppressive — always so in the 
 sun. But the breeze to-day is cheering and as one 
 sits at meals the Punka keeps him in an Elysium 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 105 
 
 content. This is to us a most curious and a most 
 acceptable contrivance. Strange that Yankee in- 
 genuity has never transplanted the Punka, instead 
 of using the ghastly and ghostly blades of a propel- 
 
 SINGAPORE. A MALAY BAND (GAMELANE PLAYERS). 
 
 ler to keep off flies and to keep out heat. Here sus- 
 pended from the ceiling are simple arrangements of 
 muslin looking for all the world like elongated 
 bolsters. They are connected by a rope to the side 
 cord and this pulled by a Coolie sets the whole in 
 motion and makes you " cooley " indeed. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 107 
 
 The clock at this point shows us to be only eight 
 minutes short of the Antipodes of Philadelphia. 
 
 The possessions of France in this place exceed by 
 one-sixth her whole Empire in Europe. 
 
 GROUP OF OFFICIALS OF THE LAW COURTS, JOHORE. 
 
 Saigon is supposed to be malarial. An excursion 
 of a few days leads to a very old temple in Cam- 
 bodia. 
 
 Singapore is distant from Hong Kong about 1550 
 miles, and from Saigon 637 miles. The voyage from 
 
108 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 Saigon is generally less than forty-eight hours. The 
 town is situated on an island purchased by the 
 English in 1819 from the Sultan of Johore. Its 
 population is about 60,000. Within a few miles of 
 
 MALAY CHIEF AND HIS FOLLOWING. 
 
 the equator the tropical plants of course abound. 
 The sun like a regular gentleman rises and sets 
 within a few minutes of six the year round. The 
 streets are well laid out, and well macadamized. 
 The public buildings are large and well designed. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 109 
 
 The air was balmy — hot — but not oppressive. There 
 is an extensive garden a short distance from the city 
 and within the garden is the nucleus of a zoological 
 exhibition. The traveller is fore-warned to reject 
 here as everywhere the froth and gush of the tourist 
 book. He need not expect to see "tigers and all 
 sorts of vermin." He may be disappointed if he ex- 
 pect to sniff the "spicy breezes of Ceylon." He will 
 find a curious palm, growing straight up some thirty 
 feet with its radii spread exactly like a giant fan. 
 The scenery of the harbor is picturesque. The boys 
 in their light canoes surround the visiting ship and 
 plunge into the water to catch the coins thrown by 
 strangers. 
 
 The heat on the steamers is relieved by the punkas 
 kept so agreeably in motion by our friend, John 
 Chinaman. 
 
 Colombo (Ceylon) has 128,000 inhabitants. La- 
 nier says the town was badly chosen as the capital of 
 the island; that it is less fertile and more exposed 
 to storms than other locations. 
 
 Kandy is in the centre (20,000 inhabitants). 
 
 Pont de Galle is to the South (population 52,000) 
 and there are other smaller towns. 
 
 The usual running time from Singapore is three 
 days and twelve hours. Arrivals and departures on 
 all these occasions are so arranged as to give the 
 
110 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 passengers as little slumber as possible. It is to be 
 presumed that this produces an economy to the 
 transporting company. Colombo is the well-known 
 yet little known capital of Ceylon. 
 
 It is not as near to the Equator as Singapore, but 
 for the practical purposes of furnishing heat in 
 December to the frozen American and food for the 
 gush of the book-writer and newspaper man its 
 latitude of 6° 57' north is all-sufficient. It is over 
 5800 miles from London by Brindisi, the shortest 
 route; and is in time five hours and nineteen 
 minutes before Greenwich — ten hours and twenty 
 minutes before Philadelphia. Wherever the English 
 have improved, one sees fine streets and splendid 
 buildings. There is not much in Ceylon to justify 
 a voyage of over 10,000 miles and forty days. But 
 being detained here for the Indian steamer the time 
 can be agreeably occupied. You need not take long 
 journeys to distant points, nor climb fearful ascents 
 which produce no satisfactory result save the ability 
 to boast of your prowess and to torture some poor 
 soul with the degradation of not having come up to 
 your standard of sight hunting. But you can in all 
 quietness take rides to a fine park, a parade ground, 
 the cinnamon gardens, a bridge of boats and a 
 Buddhist temple. 
 
 If your patience permits, you can visit a most un- 
 inviting bazaar and market. The cinnamon bush 
 
112 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 has no special attraction and save when rubbed the 
 wood emits no odor. 
 
 The temple is simply another ugly curiosity. 
 With great ceremony you are shown a reclining figure 
 over twenty feet in length, supposed to represent 
 Buddha, A statue typifies the redeemer, whom his 
 worshippers expect to come. Another figure is the 
 mother of Buddha; at her side is a lotus flower with 
 a little Buddha on top. The sameness, the ugliness 
 and the repetition of these objects make the travel- 
 ler wonder that he has been stupid enough to get 
 out of his vehicle and pay for being bored. The 
 crowds of men running about with hardly any 
 clothing, some with long hair, most of them with 
 combs, the swarms of children, the panorama all 
 black and swarthy, makes the sight of the ocean 
 and the ozone of its air a most welcome relief. 
 
 Colombo enjoyed, during my stay, delightful sea- 
 breezes. Christmas Eve was celebrated at the hotel 
 with a ball. The Episcopal church was beautifully 
 adorned with lillies. All honor to the institution 
 which far over wide seas and distant lands sends its 
 spirit to cheer the hearts of countless thousands and 
 makes even the skeptic say to his neighbor, "Merry 
 Christmas." 
 
 The Magicians of the East. — The Munchausens 
 have woven such beautiful webs of fiction that it 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 113 
 
 seems cruel, perhaps dangerous, to question thern. 
 Not even the cobra of the East can bite with more 
 poisonous fang than the fabulist of travel when you 
 question his accuracy. On one occasion it was my 
 
 HINDOO TEMPLE, COLOMBO. 
 
 privilege to listen to a trial between two of these 
 truth-destroyers. One gave with great detail the 
 marvels of a diver's skill. He had seen the bo}^ 
 dive from a ship on the opposite side when a coin was 
 thrown over and bring it up. His antagonist was 
 
114 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 not to be beaten by any such paltry feat. He told us 
 of a dancing girl in India who bent backwards and 
 lifted a coin from the pavement, not with hands or 
 lips, but with her eye-lids. Who has not read of the 
 magician of the East? That supernatural being who 
 can receive without injury the bite of the most 
 venomous reptile, and who can make a plant grow 
 before your eyes from the seed he has planted in 
 your very sight. Now the authors of these stories 
 tell them all as if they were really miracles. No 
 word of doubt or explanation is vouchsafed. How 
 plain a tale will set them clown. Whilst you are 
 enjoying a cup of tea at a kiosk your attention may 
 be attracted by a half-naked swarthy native and a 
 boy, who crouch near the threshold. The man 
 carries a small basket about one foot in diameter 
 and four inches deep. He also bears a bag large 
 enough for his conjuring tools. As soon as he 
 catches your eye he pulls from the bag a couple of 
 toys. One of them looks like a short doll, the 
 other resembles a humming top. They squeak when 
 pressed. After a few hideous sounds he takes a pith 
 ball and goes through the threadbare tricks of put- 
 ting it under a cup; lifting the cup, the ball has 
 gone ; now it is invisible, now it is under the other 
 cup, now it multiplies itself to tw T o, even up to four, 
 is swallowed, thrown in the air, re-appears on some 
 one's nose, etc. Having exhausted the ball game 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 115 
 
 the basket is opened and out crawls a cobra, as 
 hideous as deadly. But it is only a sham. The 
 fangs have all been withdrawn. The toy is squeezed 
 and a humming discord is heard. The snake lifts 
 himself angrily, curves one half of his body like an 
 S and strikes at 
 the top. He is 
 encouraged to re- 
 peat his bites and 
 sometimes the man 
 is clearly struck. 
 But he is uncon- 
 cerned. Once the 
 blood seemed to 
 come, for he 
 quickly sucked the 
 spot and then went 
 on. After this is 
 through the snake 
 
 is seized near the head and a few inches are placed in 
 the basket. The reptile is tired of this farce and he 
 crawls in. This is really the amusing part of the 
 play, to see the cobra go back so snugly to his rest. 
 Another basket is taken out of the bag and the 
 mango trick is performed. During the whole of 
 this the man and boy keep up a sort of perpetual 
 motion and perpetual squeaking. The little basket 
 is opened, a few inches of packed dirt are in the 
 
 BULLOCK CART, COLOMBO. 
 
116 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 bottom. The boy inserts a stick some four inches 
 high, the man throws over it a cloth, and with 
 many wild words and actions from man and boy 
 you are informed that something very wonderful 
 will soon happen. The bag is again resorted to and 
 a piece of a root about two inches long is exhibited. 
 This is very carefully packed in the dirt, and the cloth 
 is restored. The boy always keeps a hand under it 
 apparently to hold up the stick, but really to per- 
 form the miracle. More noise; the cloth is with- 
 drawn and a little green leaf appears between the 
 stick and the dirt, as if it had just budded. Some 
 one exclaims that this is nothing; that the mango 
 plant should be created. The Singalee says, " Oh, 
 yes, but it must have time to grow." All is covered 
 again, water is plentifully sprinkled under the cloth 
 and the pow-wowing repeated. At last the muslin 
 is removed and there sure enough is a mango plant 
 about three inches above the ground having on it 
 some eight leaves. It is quickly removed, one leaf 
 torn off and given to each lady present. It is plain 
 that the whole affair could have been introduced by 
 either of the performers, or was more probably con- 
 cealed in the cloth or beneath the dirt in a false lid 
 of the basket. The water sprinkled had of course 
 nothing to do with its growth but was simply to 
 clean off the dirt. 
 
 As represented by Munchausen it is a veritable 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 117 
 
 miracle, as seen by you it is a mere imposition, not 
 half as clever as the old ball and cup game. The 
 concluding scene was to one party at least the most 
 satisfactory part of the show. The poor snake is 
 again disquieted. His torturer with the left hand 
 
 ELEPHANTS AT FERRY, NEAR KANDY. 
 
 seizes the reptile very close to the head and presses 
 the thumb so tightly on the creature's jaws that I 
 wondered he survived. Then twirling the cobra 
 round his neck the Indian with his right hand 
 carries to each guest the basket lid to gather in his 
 
118 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 well-earned rupees, his eyes glittering all the while 
 not very much unlike the poor snake's. 
 
 Fruits, Etc. — It seems strange to find in these 
 warm countries no grapes, no peaches, no melons 
 
 FRUIT SELLERS. COLOMBO. 
 
 like those of the United States. Even oranges 
 seem scarce. The milk is weak ; the butter unpal- 
 atable ; the meats tough and poor. The handsome 
 little buffalo oxen, with their pretty colors, small 
 horns and curious humps, trot about like horses, 
 but when worn out they make sad beef. The 
 
120 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 viands one sees in the markets leave him no appetite 
 for the table. 
 
 The breadfruit tree, the cordaman, pepper bushes 
 and palms, abound. They tell of curious tailor bird 
 
 SKINNERS ROAD. COLOMBO. 
 
 nests ; but the spicy breezes are all poetry. Bananas 
 and pine-apples are plentiful ; salad is rarely served ; 
 tomatoes are scarce. 
 
 During Christmas week the banks and nearly all 
 the shops were closed for four days. 
 
122 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 Kaxdy. — It is said that this is a favorite shelter 
 from the heat; but Colombo needed no such refuge 
 the Christmas season of 1894 ; the wind was very 
 pleasant every day and on two nights was quite 
 cool. The houses are all constructed for hot weather; 
 there are no fire places ; everything is open doors, 
 latticed, etc. The bedroom I occupied had no win- 
 dow sash, and the outside shutters were arranged 
 with blinds. It seems very strange to a Philadel- 
 phian that he should in Christmas week keep care- 
 fully out of the sun, wear his thinnest summer gar- 
 ments, lounge all day and sleep at night under 
 a mosquito bar. 
 
 Kandy is 76 miles from Colombo, has a Gover- 
 nor's palace and a fine library. Botanical Gardens 
 are near and Delada's Temple was built for Buddha's 
 Tooth. 
 
 There is a fine sanitarium at Neura Elliya at an 
 altitude of 2600 feet, 50 miles from Kandy. 
 
 These things may be credited, but the " wild ele- 
 phants in herds" and "bamboos that grow one half 
 inch every hour " (2 feet a day — 730 feet in a year); 
 we may be pardoned by our friend the story-teller 
 for rejecting. 
 
 In place of wandering over the island to gather 
 up fables, let the tourist rest his weary brain and 
 gaze out quietly, as he may by the hour, at this 
 beautiful harbor of Colombo, with its blue sky and 
 
124 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 bluer water, bearing on its calm surface the huge 
 ships which carry to and from these shores so many 
 precious cargoes and more precious lives. All this 
 like a quiet, natural, but lovely picture is spread out 
 
 ELEPHANT DRAWING COCOANUTS, BATTICALOA. CEYLON. 
 
 directly in front of the Oriental Hotel, and seems to 
 condemn the spirit that casts one hasty look upon 
 the scene and turns from it forever. 
 
 As our German friends say "so many a student 
 crosses the Rhine a gosling and comes back a goose." 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 125 
 
 Adam's Peak is pointed like a loaf of sugar 
 and overlooks all the neighboring mountains. Ac- 
 cording to the legend, " When Buddha descended 
 upon the earth in a frightful tempest, he rested 
 upon this island, drove out the evil spirits and es- 
 tablished his residence here. He proclaimed his 
 gospel Nirvana and taught men to seek happiness 
 by living without desire and by dying without fear. 
 In ascending to Heaven he left not only a handful 
 of hair, but also at the special prayer of the King, 
 the print of his foot. This, called the miraculous 
 sripada, is found at the precise spot where for the 
 last time his foot rested on earth." 
 
 It is needless to add that for more than 2000 
 years pilgrims have nocked to this spot. Eight 
 hundred years ago a temple was erected, and of 
 course a basin was placed there to receive the offer- 
 ings of the devotees. There is some conflict of 
 statement as to the footprint. The Arabs claim 
 that an angel carried Adam to this peak. The 
 Chinese assert that the mark was made by Iwan-Koo ; 
 the Portugese contend for St. Thomas, and a 
 Persian poet has bestowed the honor on Alexander 
 the Great. 
 
 The celebrated tooth was in its day the subject of 
 fierce battles. In the 16th century it is said that 
 the Archbishop of Goa reduced it to powder in 
 a mortar in the presence of all the court, and threw 
 
126 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 the dust to the winds of the sea, vet the faithful 
 insist that the tooth still exists intact. 
 
 Mr. Russell narrates the exhibition of it to the 
 Prince of Wales in 1876. The golden box contain- 
 ing the relic, studded with blazing jewels, was 
 placed upon a silver table. A priest opened it. It 
 contained another box. The second being opened 
 disclosed a third, and so on to the fifth, all of jew- 
 eled gold. At last the tooth was seen reposing 
 on a lotus leaf of gold. The priest, trembling with 
 emotion, exhibited the tooth to the Prince, who 
 having duly examined it. retired. 
 
 From Colombo to Calcutta required a week. The 
 steamer stopped at Pondicherry for a few hours, at 
 Madras for half a day. 
 
 Pondicherry is governed by the French. It has 
 broad streets, some fine government buildings and a 
 botanical garden. 
 
 Madras boasts of larger buildings and a better 
 garden. 
 
 Calcutta is not situated on the coast, but is some 
 eighty miles and odd up the Hooghly River. The 
 navigation is difficult : one cannot go at night and 
 must stop in daytime for the tide. We anchored off 
 the mouth of the river at 2.30 A. M.. but did not 
 reach Calcutta until 1 1 A. M. of the next day, say 
 thirtv-three hours. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 127 
 
 ACROSS INDIA. 
 
 Calcutta, Lat, 22° N. 
 
 Time, Philadelphia, 12 noon, Calcutta, 11 P. M. 
 
 HIS city is in Lower Bengal. It 
 has a population of 980,000. It 
 was built in the 17th century and 
 fortified in the 18th century by 
 Clyde. It is mentioned as one of 
 the great ports of India, and is the 
 capital and seat of government. 
 
 The approach by the Hooghly 
 River is described by the inhabi- 
 tants as much worse than it was 
 found during the voyage. In the 
 city we were informed that 2000 
 years ago the sea swept up to the base of the Hima- 
 layas. This word, by the way, is honored with three 
 different pronunciations. The English and the 
 Americans pronounce it with the accent on the lay. 
 But the Orientals contend that this is wrong. Some 
 call it TLimsL-lay-yas, others E-ma-loy-as. 
 
 After the sea retired the mountains seem to have 
 resolved to return the compliment of an invasion 
 and for years the wash from these hills has brought 
 down avalanches of sand and drift which have been 
 
128 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 poured into the water and have gradually encroached 
 upon the Bay of Bengal by enlarging the continent. 
 The result has been to make the mouth of the 
 Hooghly a most treacherous entrance. It is con- 
 stantly on the change. In the open channel of this 
 week there may be poured in seven days a little 
 mountain of sand. Nor is this the worst. Should 
 a vessel strike she can never hope to be relieved by 
 tide or tugs. She begins instantly to sink in the 
 sand. We passed a ship which was buried far down 
 and had sunk so rapidly in the quick debris that 
 only one of her crew escaped. 
 
 The climate is represented as very good for four 
 months, including the winter. But in May the rains 
 set in. In summer the thermometer, I was told, 
 rises to 100 degrees and remains there. My inform- 
 ant said that the nights were intolerable. Earth- 
 quakes occasionally come, but they seem to be almost 
 harmless. The shakes here are not horizontal ; they 
 lift you up and suddenly let you down. 
 
 Fort William is a fine structure. The Post office 
 is a grand building. Near it was the famous Black 
 Hole. Then there are the Government House, the 
 Town Hall, the palace of the ex-King of Oudh, St. 
 Paul's Cathedral, other churches, the University, the 
 Indian Museum, etc. 
 
 There are also statues of Sir James Ontram, Lord 
 Bentinck and others. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 129 
 
 The Zoological Gardens boast of some very large 
 tigers and some beautiful birds. The Eden gardens 
 were the gift of two ladies of that name. 
 
 Notwithstanding the wealth of the city there 
 seems to be no proper sanitary law in force. The 
 streets are, in the main, good turnpikes, but all mat- 
 ters dropped percolate to some extent before removal 
 and the subsequent sprinkling only seems to perpet- 
 uate the disagreeable odor. 
 
 The hotels are strangely kept. At our hostelry — 
 very large and grand — a wide marble hall separated 
 bed-rooms from the dining-room. In this beautiful 
 passage were tables used for prepariag vegetables, 
 oil stoves and a kitchen. 
 
 The tiles were stained very black and the whole 
 had a strange appearance. 
 
 Guide books tempt the traveller, as usual, to visit 
 many places he might well pass. First of these 
 coming westward is Benares. It is twenty-seven 
 hours from Calcutta. The sleeping cars are not the 
 subject of extortionate extra charge as with us. It 
 is true that they are not supplied with bedding, nor 
 soap nor towels. The other conveniences are how- 
 ever given. 
 
 The first-class car accommodates four, the second 
 class, five persons. There are no chairs. Sofas run 
 along the side of the car and a cushion can be let 
 down making two comfortable beds in each row. 
 
130 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 For a few hours a man could rest well enough on 
 the lounge. But for all night each passenger pro- 
 vides a blanket and a pillow. These cost $1.75 and 
 remain his property. It is usual to have a male 
 servant. He carries all luggage, beds, etc. included, 
 spreads your blanket and makes you comfortable. 
 His fare and compensation seem almost trifling. 
 His passage all the w T ay from Calcutta to Bombay 
 is about $6. The return fare is even less, $4.50. 
 His wages are only about thirty cents a day, and 
 out of this he provides his own living. He pleads 
 for some warm clothing. Two dollars and a half 
 suffices to supply this, so that a trifle over $20 will 
 pay for him and the pillow and blankets. When you 
 put against this our extortion of $5 a night with the 
 top lid clown on you unless you pay $5 more you 
 conclude that India is more economical. 
 
 The first-class ticket from Calcutta to Bombay 
 covering about 1800 miles is $36.. 
 
 It is said that there are 2000 temples and shrines 
 at Benares, and that the city is the oldest in the 
 world. I see no signs of great antiquity. The few 
 temples one's stomach permits him to see disgust 
 him very thoroughly. Gateways, portals, altars, all 
 the associations of a temple vanish as you approach. 
 Of course there is an entrance. A few feet off on some 
 sacred pavement which you must not touch is a doll 
 seated on the floor, representing nothing human, 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 131 
 
 tawdrily dressed, hideous and repulsive to the last 
 degree. You are told that this is a god. Men offer 
 to it little garlands of flowers and then as a blessing 
 present the buds to you calling baksheesh. One of 
 
 BENARES— VIEW OF TEMPLE AND GHATS ON BANKS OF GANGES. 
 
 these hideous holes had gilded spires; they call it 
 the Golden Temple. Another is the Cow Temple, 
 still another is the Durga Temple. The attraction 
 there was to see the monkeys. But even this failed. 
 
132 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 I counted three on the roof and two on the ground, 
 ugly and dirty. Yet whilst trying in my humble 
 way to find relief in looking at a poor monkey, two 
 wretches kneeled in front of me, and before I could 
 realize the situation they pulled out of their bags 
 two boas, four cobras and a handful of scorpions 
 which they exhibited for my delectation. Nothing 
 was left save retreat. But this is difficult. An army 
 of men, women and children surround you. Their 
 cries are stunning. Yet out of the din it was sweet 
 to hear in English, " May the good God bless you, 
 sir." 
 
 A Rajah's palace, the hospital founded by the 
 Prince of Wales, and some other buildings are 
 pleasant to the eye. But the rest seems to be a 
 rough collection of dirty, squalid houses, unworthy 
 the name of residences. 
 
 These are the afflictions brought upon the ignor- 
 ant traveller by his faith in guide-books. 
 
 Up dirty, narrow streets, then turning into a still 
 smaller passage, through noxious odors, you come to a 
 railing about four feet square around a hole. It looks 
 like a well. They burnt some paper, let some em. 
 bers drop down-down-many feet. Then, they ex- 
 plained that this for years was the spot where the 
 fanatic threw himself to death. As there is nothing 
 of this in the guide book, which contains all the 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 133 
 
 Munchausen fables, the story is merely stated for 
 the benefit of the next Gulliver. 
 
 The Ghats are stone stair-cases leading to the river. 
 You descend some twenty steps, take a chair on a 
 
 RESERVOIR AND GARDEN IN THE CHOWMAHLA PALACE. HYDERBAD, DECCAN. 
 
 large cranky boat and the men row you a mile or 
 so up and down the Ganges. The view is pictur- 
 esque. The river bank is over fifty feet high in 
 some places. Every square or so the stone stair-case 
 appears. Sometimes it is in a straight line, again 
 
134 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 it curves. On the bank appear temples, houses of 
 the wealthy, etc. The temples have all the pecu- 
 liar spire of India. For some forty feet it ascends 
 in a straight line with four sides ; recesses appear in 
 the work. Then it comes to a point somewhat like 
 a candle extinguisher. The carvings are quaint. 
 
 At the foot of the bank there is a shore way along 
 the river varying from twenty to fifty feet in width. 
 This is filled with narrow planks leading to the 
 water and sometimes you see a small screen. Men, 
 women and children bathe here promiscuously, save 
 that there is one place reserved for widow's and an- 
 other for high castes. There are no bathing houses. 
 The men generally go into the water with an apron 
 girdle. The women are completely covered with 
 muslin. They descend into the water but a few 
 steps. I saw only one man swimming. When 
 waist deep they dip up the water with their hands, 
 pray, and gently wash or pat first the forehead and 
 then other parts. It appears to be a religious bath. 
 For the cleansing of the body it would seem not to 
 be very effectual. I have never seen people bathing 
 in such dirt. A short distance from the shore the 
 boat passes through hundreds of dirty green subs- 
 tances floating on the surface. In two places water 
 descends as from a sewer ; and one woman threw in 
 several baskets of dirt. Here are the cremations ; 
 we saw four piles on fire. The bodies are brought 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 135 
 
 down tied up in plain material. The red I was told 
 was the female and white the male color. A pile of 
 sticks is built about knee high, the body is placed 
 on the top, then some more wood is placed over it. 
 
 CREMATION GHAT AT BENARES. 
 
 The whole being about six feet long, four feet deep 
 and four feet wide. Straw is ignited by the princi- 
 pal mourner and thrust under the wood. A son 
 was pointed out as performing this rite. The cre- 
 9 
 
136 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 mation lasts about two hours and then all is thrown 
 into the sacred River. The chief mourner stays in 
 seclusion for ten days and then gives a feast. The 
 scene on the river is full of the curious but destitute 
 of the cheerful. 
 
 Lucknow. — The journey from Benares to Luck- 
 now (202 miles) is covered in eight and a half hours. 
 The land seems to be better tilled and more attract- 
 ive than it appears near Benares. Cotton, tobacco, 
 sugar and all cereals are raised in India. With the 
 exception of the wild cactus and tropical trees the 
 appearance of the soil is much the same as in other 
 countries. The railroad and stations are all English. 
 The residences are almost universally one story 
 high and according to the rank ot the occupants 
 are squalid huts or stately palaces. Lunch and 
 dinner are served at stopping places but in rather a 
 meagre style. The waiters hardly speak a word of 
 English and the traveler's lot "is not a happy one." 
 
 Lucknow is a very handsome city. It is situated 
 on the river Gomtee, which has the unpleasant 
 quality of submerging a suburb when it is so pleased: 
 A tablet marked a terrible rise so recently as Sep- 
 tember, 1894, and other tablets preserve an unpleas- 
 ant record. There are many tine drives, splendid 
 residences, grand mosques and scenes of great his- 
 torical interest. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 137 
 
 Amongst the houses, the Martiniere, as it is called, 
 may probably rank as the largest and oddest in the 
 world. It was erected by General Claude Martin, 
 
 GATEWAY OF THE PALACE OF LIGHT, LUCKNOW. 
 
 who was born in Lyons, 1735. He served in the 
 French army in India with great distinction, rose 
 from the ranks to high command and was taken 
 prisoner in 1761. He was engaged by the Savvab 
 
138 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 of Oudh to make some surveys, settled in Lucknow, 
 opened a bank, became immensely rich, built this 
 curious palace and on his death left the bulk of his 
 estate to charities. The building is now used as a 
 school. It has nothing to attract save its enormous 
 size. A critic condemns it as a "fantastic specimen 
 of architecture adorned with minute stuccos and 
 enormous lions, with lamps instead of eyes, etc." 
 
 The Sepoys used this place as a fort in the 
 mutiny of 1857. Very different from this are the 
 Mosques. The Immambara (house of the Prophet) 
 in the Muchee Bhawun, the Hosseinabad Immam- 
 bara, the Jumma Musjid, etc. They are beautiful, 
 white structures, all standing inside of tasty enclo- 
 sures and of large proportions. The architecture is 
 what we call Moorish. The floors are marble. 
 They all have silver stair-cases inside, of six steps, 
 some leading to a seat whereon we may imagine a 
 monarch sat, They are all studded with beautiful 
 lamps and candle stands six or seven feet high for 
 other lights. 
 
 The Mosque first named was built in a time of 
 famine to provide for the starving. It cost £1,000,- 
 000. The length of the centre room is 163 feet, its 
 breadth 53 feet and its height 49 feet, The length 
 of the building is 303 feet, its breadth 163 feet and 
 its height 63 feet. These large proportions are all 
 arranged with perfect harmony. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 139 
 
 The Hosseinabad consists of two rectangular en- 
 closures. It was erected by the third King of Oude. 
 The Immambara here is divided lengthwise into 
 three rooms. The central room contains the tombs 
 
 LUCKNOW, THE -RESIDENCY. 
 
 of Mohammed Ali Shah and his mother. The 
 crown and other insignia are exhibited. There is a 
 gilded dome. The floor is paved with black and 
 white marble. In the centre of the square is a 
 
140 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 model of the famous Taj Mahal of Agra. It con- 
 tains the tomb of the King's daughter. 
 
 Jumma Musjid is the great Mosque of Lucknow. 
 It boasts of lofty and massive pinnacles. Its walls 
 are enriched with arabesques. 
 
 Whilst these structures must be accepted as fault- 
 less in their way, there is yet a sameness about 
 them. Who sees one sees all. Of far more interest 
 to the Anglo-Saxon are the scenes here which are 
 full of historical interest. 
 
 Chiefest of these is the Residency. It is now in 
 ruins. It was built by a Nawab about the year 1800 
 for the British Resident at his court. It is one of the 
 higher spots in the city. There are several large 
 buildings near to it. One a dining room, another 
 a doctor's house. There seems to be a cluster of 
 buildings. The reader knows of the mutiny which 
 broke out at Lucknow May 30, 1857. The Resi- 
 dency was besieged from June 30 to September 25. 
 Cannonades, minings, assaults were all resorted to 
 with overwhelming odds in favor of the mutineers. 
 Every attack was repulsed, but the buildings threat- 
 ened to fall. The walls are honeycombed with the 
 marks of the shells. When at last Havelock and 
 succor came the brave forces of 1692 had been re- 
 duced to 979. General Neill fell during the action 
 on the last morning. 
 
 As usual" In those cities there are the old quarters 
 
142 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 and the bazaars. They are all alike. A passage 
 hardly wide enough for one vehicle and the crowd 
 of pedestrians, is lined with two story buildings — 
 some frame, some mud and some plastered. These 
 are thronged with hard-working artizans and patient 
 sellers. At one spot a score of shoemakers, further 
 on workers in brass and other metals, embroiderers 
 of cloth, silk, muslin and a multitude of avocations. 
 The workshop, factory and shop may be one room, 
 no bigger than a large kennel, say eight by eight. 
 Here are sometimes two men hard at work. Seve- 
 eal sewing machines were seen. Behind is a room 
 of the same size where the family reside. Would 
 free trade introduce to the United States this life for 
 the American workman ? 
 
 To the credit of Lucknow it should be recorded 
 that her bazaars were clean and orderly. No foul 
 odors here salute the visitor. The climate in this 
 section is very pleasant for half the year, but the 
 rains bring intolerable heat and the snakes come 
 out to get dry. 
 
 A traveling companion seems in dread of hostile 
 visitations even now. He examines his room be- 
 fore retiring and puts his shoes on a chair to avoid 
 making the acquaintance of a scorpion in the morn- 
 ing. Caution is a useful friend but fear is a cruel 
 tyrant. 
 
 This hotel (The Imperial) is very large and is well 
 
ABOUND THE WORLD 143 
 
 kept. There are no second stories. The centre 
 building and its long wings have wide arched cor- 
 ridors in front, all fireproof. The bedrooms are of 
 good size. In the rear is a bathroom. It is sup- 
 plied with toilet table and washstand. There is no 
 bathtub, no water closet. In place of the latter is 
 the old fashioned commode. The bath is a curious 
 arrangement. A space about six feet square is plas- 
 tered and around it is built a little wall about ankle 
 deep. Within are four earthen jars full of water 
 and a large bathing pan. On the level of the floor 
 is a little hole out of which the water runs. Back 
 doors admit the servant who comes unbidden. 
 
 Cawxpore. — Two hours on the rail take you from 
 Lucknow to Cawnpore. Around this town will 
 cluster for all ages the sentiment which commands 
 sympathy for suffering and indignation against 
 cruelty. The events which make it memorable 
 have been too often written and are too well 
 known to need repetition. Whilst the greater part 
 of the soldiers were at church, their principal build- 
 ing was seized by the mutineers. A miserable en- 
 trenchment was held by General Wheeler and his 
 heroes for twenty-one days, against a continuous fire. 
 The well, from whence the water needed by the be- 
 sieged was to be drawn, stood outside the entrench- 
 ment, and the supply was only to be secured at im- 
 
144 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 minent peril of life. The presence of a number of 
 women and children in the English camp doubtless - 
 induced the General to listen to an offer to transport 
 all in safety, if the place were surrendered. Boats 
 were provided and the whole camp was marched to 
 the Suttee Chowra Ghat, a landing place on the 
 Ganges about a mile from the entrenchment. Nana 
 had arranged his plans with minuteness of atrocious 
 detail. The boats were all roofed with straw, some 
 men were detailed to set fire to the boats on the 
 raising of a flag, others were ambushed on the banks 
 to rake the barges with their guns, and as if this 
 was not enough, cavalry was detailed down the shore 
 to cut off any who might escape. At the given 
 signal the matches were applied, the fusilade com- 
 menced and all were slaughtered save two soldiers, 
 Thompson and Murphy, and a band of women and 
 children, who were hurried to the town and confined 
 until the approach of succor when they were bar- 
 barously murdered and many thrown down the well. 
 The traveller sees the well, the lines of the old camp, 
 and the bullet marks at the wharf. The names of 
 the unfortunates are preserved on tombs and on 
 brass tablets in the beautiful church. In the Park 
 there is a glorious figure of an angel in marble. It 
 was designed by Baron Marochetti, and is surrounded 
 by a chaste gothic screen. At the foot of this mound 
 are the tombs of many who fell in the mutiny. 
 
146 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 The Ghat referred to as the place of embarkation 
 was a brown building where Hindoo women disrobed 
 before bathing in the Ganges. Along the river 
 banks are still marked the spots where the unfortu- 
 nate widows went through the rite of Suttee upon 
 the funeral piles of their husbands. If England 
 and Christianity had done nothing more for hu- 
 manity than the abolition of this horrid rite — the 
 enemies of both should rise up and proclaim their 
 greatness. 
 
 Agra is one of the most attractive cities in India. 
 It is nearly six hours by rail from Cawnpore. The 
 streets are generally very wide and well turnpiked. 
 The bazaar has a broader thoroughfare and is more 
 inviting than the rival cities. Many of the houses 
 in the narrow quarter have second stories, with 
 marble verandas. The city is on the right bank of 
 the Jumma. On approaching it attention is attracted 
 by the large Fort. Its walls are seventy feet high, 
 with a circuit of a mile and a half. It is built of 
 red sandstone, has huge towers and presents an im- 
 posing appearance. There is a drawbridge, a deep, 
 wide moat, a huge gatewa} r , and a long, curved as- 
 cent which strikes the mind as a pretty serious 
 obstacle to an assaulting party. After reaching the 
 top of tins hill and passing an inner portal, you are 
 in the palace buildings. These monarchs must have 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 147 
 
 enjoyed the pleasures of this life. A lake, it was 
 said, was in one of the squares. It is now filled up. 
 Here, in excellent preservation, are a hall of public 
 audience, a hall of private audience, each with its 
 throne, a court 500 feet by 350, surrounded by 
 arcades, many corridors, the Queen's bed and bath- 
 rooms, etc. All of these are of white marble and 
 are beautifully carved. It is said that here 500 
 people were lodged. From one of the battlements 
 could be seen in a court yard frequent exhibitions of 
 wild beasts. The Harem, the grated windows, the 
 private apartments of the illustrious Arjumand are 
 all pointed out. Here too, alas, is shown the place 
 where Shah Jahan, who had ruled over all this with 
 so much glory, was confined after being dethroned 
 by his son. 
 
 The oldest parts of the structure date from the 
 reign of Akbar. The inscription over the main 
 archway of the Jumma Masjid (Great Mosque) shows 
 that it was built by Shah Jahan, commenced in 1639 
 and finished in 1644. During this period he was 
 also engaged upon the tomb of his wife. He was 
 deposed by Aurangzeb, who built the public audience 
 hall above mentioned in 1685. 
 
 This large pile embraced a small city, a palace and 
 a fort. Though possessing no strength as against 
 modern artillery it must have been originally re- 
 garded as a mighty stronghold — the seat and the 
 wutness of great power. 
 
148 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 The Taj Mahal is a beautiful white marble 
 tomb erected by Shah-Jahau in honor of his wife 
 Armajund. The carvings are very chaste and the 
 entire pile does credit to the virtues of the wife and 
 the love of the husband. It was commenced shortly 
 after the death of the Queen, 1629, but was not 
 finished until 1648. It has been so rapturously 
 described by scribblers that it seems difficult to pre- 
 sent it in its true colors. It is not "a dream." It 
 does not "battle description." It is in appearance 
 exactly like a mosque. Not so large as the largest, 
 nor by any means a small building. Like the tomb 
 of Akbar and other illustrious persons, it is not pro- 
 truded upon a highway. You enter a gateway 
 which is itself a handsome and large building. You 
 drive a few hundred feet, then on foot enter another 
 imposing gateway structure and find yourself 700 
 feet from the Taj. These distances are not from 
 measurements save by the eye. The grounds stretch 
 out as if you were in a Park. In front is a broad 
 stone walk divided by a shallow sheet of water with 
 ends of pipes at regular distances, as if for fountains. 
 On both sides are flowers. The walk half way is 
 broken by an ascent of a few marble steps and you 
 are at the side of a large basin of water. Passing this 
 you descend again and thus you approach the tomb. 
 Its size may be understood when you imagine a 
 building of excellent proportions whose dome is 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 149 
 
 eighty feet above the roof. The crescent was esti- 
 mated by a gentleman at my side to be 180 feet from 
 the ground. A writer calls it 243 feet high. The mau- 
 soleum is in depth and width 1 86 feet. Inside is a 
 large octagonal room. Two tombs — one of the Em- 
 peror, the other of his wife, are shown on the floor. 
 But they are not the tombs. On leaving you are 
 invited to descend to the basement and there in- 
 deed are the resting places of the loving husband 
 and the faithful wife. Many panels are inlaid witli 
 agates and colored marbles, but white is the pre- 
 vailing color. The main building stands on a pla- 
 teau; at each corner is a marble tower, and a mina- 
 ret, 137 feet high. There is a mosque on each side. 
 A florid writer states that this structure cost £2,000,- 
 000, and that 20,000 men were employed on it for 
 twenty-two years. He adds that " while gazing on 
 the Taj men let their cigars go out and ladies drop 
 their fans without noticing the loss." Let all men 
 reading these statements draw the veil of charity 
 over the delusions of the gusher. 
 
 It is related of Armajund that a slave was brought 
 before her w T ho had attempted to alienate the love of 
 the Emperor. The Empress drew a dagger as if to slay 
 her rival, but then inserting the point in the ground 
 and breaking off the blade, she bade the offender to 
 note the vengeance of a Queen. 
 
 The Pearl Mosque is near to the Fort. It has 
 
150 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 three domes of marble with gilded spires. It was 
 built by Shah-Jahan in 1654. There are no pearls 
 in it and a traveller near me who asked " where the 
 pearls were" seemed disappointed. 
 
 The tombs of Akbar, of Itimad-ud Dowlah and 
 many other places are worthy of a visit simply to 
 while away time ; but would not justify much labor 
 or expense for their inspection. 
 
 ELHI is six hours by rail from Agra. 
 It strikes the visitor as a more 
 thriving and imposing city than 
 Agra. Approaching towards the 
 west appearances improve. Shah- 
 Jahan ruled from 1637 to 1658. 
 He commenced this place in 1648. 
 Ten years later the Palace Fort 
 was constructed. It has a circuit 
 of one mile and. a half. The walls 
 of the city extend five miles and a 
 half. The principal entrance to 
 the Fort is by the Lahore Gate. 
 It has a strong resemblance to the 
 citadel at Agra. High walls of red turrets, bat- 
 tlements, moat, double portals, etc. The Palace 
 contains beauties of marble and of gilding one 
 does not find elsewhere. There is a vaulted hall, 
 375 feet long, which has been pronounced "the 
 
 ^ahMasjid D£ 
 

 
 10 
 
I.)!* FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 noblest entrance to any existing place." There are 
 the large basins for fountains, the Private Audience 
 Hall, the apartments for females, their bathing- 
 rooms, the King's bed room, his bath room, etc. All 
 these are of white marble, most of them beautifully 
 carved with fine traceries of vines, flowers, etc. The 
 Private Audience Hall is open on all sides, the roof 
 being supported by square columns beautifully in- 
 laid. In the centre formerly stood the famous Pea- 
 cock throne. Nothing now remains of it, save the 
 marble steps and platform. It is described as hav- 
 ing been a chair of solid gold five feet long, four 
 feet broad, backed with precious stones, arranged 
 like a peacock's tail, glittering with rubies, sapphires 
 and diamonds. Some report the ceiling as silver, 
 others say it was of gold. It is estimated to have 
 been worth $30,000,000, far too valuable to endure. 
 All this has been carried off by the spoiler. The 
 large marble stone in the centre of the King's bath 
 was used for shampooing or massaging the royal 
 body. The baths are all beneath the level of the 
 room, about five feet deep, and six to eight feet 
 square; the supply and exit passages are still here. 
 On the corner panels of the Audience Hall is in- 
 scribed in Persian, " If there be a Paradise on earth, 
 it is this, it is this," reminding one of Moore's cele- 
 brated eulogy on Cashmere 
 
ABOUND THE WORLD 153 
 
 " For if this world discloses 
 Delights unknown elsewhere, 
 'Tis at the Feast of Roses 
 Within thy Vale Cashmere." 
 
 There is a very beautiful Pearl Mosque near the 
 Fort, and one of the largest mosques in India, per- 
 haps in the world is within a short distance. It is 
 the Jumma Masjid. It stands on an eminence and 
 is reached by a number of steps. These are studded 
 with beggars — men, women, children — many of 
 them sellers of pigeons. The court is 450 feet 
 square, and it is said that it will contain 50,000 
 worshipers. The arched ways at one end are cov- 
 ered and the ceilings are beautifully carved. Three 
 domes of white marble and two minarets at the 
 front adorn the roof. A little house at the end of 
 one of the long corridors has gilded doors. These 
 are opened and the attendant reverently entering, 
 shows you in succession sheets of the Koran written 
 by Mahomet's son-in-law, a bound volume contain- 
 ing similar copies all in Arabic, a slipper of Ma- 
 homet, his footprint on a stone resembling agate, 
 and lastly in a phial, about three inches long, a 
 hair of the prophet. This is one single hair, 
 slightly auburn. 
 
 Kootub Minar is about eleven miles from Delhi. 
 The road takes you past ruins of several cities, forts, 
 many tombs, mosques, etc. During the whole ride 
 
154 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 something dilapidated is always in sight, at times 
 you can count half a dozen domes, all going to de- 
 cay. The Emperor Humayon's tomb is less than 
 half way to Kootub Minar. It was built by his 
 widow and it is pleasant to note that at Delhi and 
 at Agra the memories of a deceased wife and a de- 
 parted husband have been touchingly appreciated 
 by the survivor. This structure is in the middle of 
 a platform and it is over 100 feet square. The plat- 
 form is ornamented with arches and has four flights 
 of steps. The mausoleum is of red stone inlaid 
 with marble. The floor is of the same material 
 and as usual there is a marble dome. There is a 
 variety, but at the same time a uniformity in these 
 buildings. They soon become tiresome except to 
 the enthusiast. 
 
 The Kootub Minar is also spelled Kutab Minar. 
 It is a curious column. Its outside is grooved and 
 it looks like an enormous Japanese umbrella closed. 
 It is reported as 238 feet high, 47 feet diameter at 
 the base, upper diameter 9 feet. Fergusson reports 
 the Kutab and its surroundings as "by far the most 
 interesting group of ruins in India, or perhaps in 
 any part of the world." The qualification of the 
 latter part of the compliment is very proper. It is 
 reported as dating from 1200 to 1220. It is situated 
 near the centre of a large square. Behind it are ruins 
 of three arches, the centre about thirty feet in height.. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 155 
 
 At the side on a slight elevation are four more 
 arches, the centre being about the same height as 
 the first series. The walls of these entrances are 
 nearly nine feet thick. Around the sides are corri- 
 
 TOMB OF THE EMPEROR HUMAYON, DELHI. 
 
 dors and in front of the arches is an iron pillar 
 about twenty-two feet high. The lowest diameter 
 is sixteen feet. It was erected by Rajah Dhava and 
 its history is recorded in cut Sanskrit A. D. 319. 
 We were told all these details and that the square 
 
156 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 referred to was called Butkliana. No great depend- 
 ence is to be placed upon guides. But if this infor- 
 mation be correct, then according to Fergusson 
 these pillars "are among the few examples to be 
 found in India that seem to be overloaded with 
 ornament, there not being one inch of plain surface 
 from the capital to the base ; still the ornament is 
 so sharp and so beautifully executed, and the effect 
 in their present state of decay and ruin so pictur- 
 esque that it is very difficult to find fault with what 
 is so beautiful." The same remark maybe applied 
 to the arches and to columns in the rear. A gen- 
 tleman called my attention to the fact that many of 
 the carvings represented ropes and bells. 
 
 I said that the Kutab resembled in its fiutings a 
 huge umbrella closed but' uncovered. The shaft 
 has twenty-four indentations or projections, as one 
 may please to call them, on its face. ' These are 
 caused by twelve curves, and twelve angles, all pro- 
 jecting outwards. The prevailing color is red choc- 
 olate. There are four balconies or stories. From 
 the ground to the first overhanging balcony there 
 are five upright rows of columns carved at top and 
 bottom several feet deep. It is said that the inside 
 steps number 379. To walk around the base re- 
 quired eighty-six paces. 
 
 I was told before I went there that it was the 
 most wonderful sight in the world, and that before 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 157 
 
 the erection of the Eiffel tower it was the highest 
 structure known. Is it a pity that the imagination 
 of some persons is so very elastic ? or is it best that 
 they should enjoy these beliefs ? 
 
 KOOTUB MINAR, DELHI. 
 
 On the return journey one sees an observatory 
 and a large equatorial amongst the hundreds of 
 ruins. Some idea of the importance of Delhi may be 
 gathered from the following list of these structures : 
 
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 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL, 
 
 'EYPORE is over ten hours by rail 
 from Delhi. The wayside lunch and 
 dinner are better than at some places 
 farther East. But the wretched hurry, 
 ringing of bells, etc., destroy all com- 
 fort. 
 
 Jeypore is the seat of a Mahara- 
 jah. We were told that Maha meant 
 great, so that a Maharajah is superior in rank to a 
 rajah. 
 
 Thirty-eight different castes in this blessed coun- 
 try look down each upon the other with supreme 
 contempt, Effigies of all are exhibited in the mu- 
 seum here. The waxen figures present striking- 
 contrasts. Two of them strangely enough have 
 shirt collars. Their brethren must regard them with 
 peculiar horror. This city has much finer buildings 
 and more of them than Benares, Lucknovv, Cawn- 
 pore, Agra or Delhi. 
 
 The wide streets are lined with houses two and 
 three stories high, painted a pretty pink or choco- 
 late, traced with white arabesques. Thousands of 
 pigeons and some monkeys are seen enjoying their 
 freedom. The Hindu to his credit be it said, re- 
 spects the birds. There is a fine park with the 
 usual specimens of trees, flowers, peacocks and other 
 birds, etc. The tigers have a separate establish- 
 
163 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 
 
 ment at a distance. When news reaches the Maha- 
 rajah of a tiger being seen near a settlement his men 
 are sent out and the animal is captured. Some- 
 times a net is spread across a path into which he is 
 driven. Sometimes a pit is dug, straw and a goat 
 placed on the top. When snared the animal is 
 starved until very weak ; he is then chained and 
 placed in his cage ; occasionally a cub is caught and 
 Ave were told marvelous accounts of the little fellows 
 being raised to tameness and maturity, walking 
 about like cats, suffering children to tease them, etc. 
 However this may be, it is certain that the leopard 
 is tamed so as to assist his master in catching ante- 
 lopes. It is quite comical to see the beast seated 
 upright by the side of his keeper, directly on the 
 highway. The tigers here are fine specimens, but 
 not as large as those at Calcutta. 
 
 The factories where baser metals are inlaid with 
 gold, where polished tiles are made, fine work done 
 on metals, cloths, clay, etc., are all worthy of visits. 
 
 The most skilled workman receives but one rupee 
 (about twenty-five cents) a day. 
 
 The palace is a fine buildinjf. You pass through 
 several gates and then through two court yards con- 
 taining residences for hundreds of eunuchs and 
 others before you emerge upon the main edifice. It 
 is very high and surmounted with the usual orna- 
 ments. At the side are a large audience hall and 
 
168 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 an extensive banqueting room. In the rear are 
 beautiful gardens with numerous fixtures for foun- 
 tains, illuminations, etc. It is said that these cost 
 a very large sum, but there is a sameness about it 
 all suggestive of other places. Chatsworth differs 
 from Kew, and both from Hyde Park. Versailles, 
 Berlin, Vienna, Madrid, Boston, New York, Phila- 
 delphia, each has a distinct type. But here with 
 very slight variations all are alike. White marble 
 abounds, but is rarely allowed to stand upon its own 
 native beauty. It is not only cut, carved, honey- 
 combed, perforated, screened, twisted and tortured, 
 but it is painted, inlaid, gilded and bedizened like 
 the women, who put huge rings in their nostrils, 
 metal ornaments through their lips, bracelets on 
 their arms, anklets on their legs and rings on their 
 toes. 
 
 A school of Art contains a number of boys learn- 
 ing to draw, and to work on metal. It has some fine 
 specimens of handicraft. 
 
 The hotels here and thus far all through India 
 exhibit a delicious confidence in the honesty of 
 mankind. The few fastenings which one finds 
 hardly deserve the name, and a Cooley can rush in 
 upon you ad libitum. I pleaded last night for a key. 
 It was promised but came not. Even the latch 
 would not catch upon the opposite iron and the wind 
 blew open the door. Nothing remained but to prop 
 
170 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 
 
 a chair against it, and trust to Providence. Not to 
 speak of men, the danger from dogs or other animals, 
 is disturbing. Hogs and jackals circulate at liberty. 
 
 Permits are required here for visits to the palaces, 
 gardens, etc., but they are freely granted. At the 
 hotel there are printed blanks which require simply 
 your name, date, etc. The Cooley bears the paper 
 to the proper person and brings the permit. 
 
 The present Maharajah is a wise and liberal 
 Prince; he has founded schools, & hospital, etc. The 
 streets are lighted with gas. His stables contain 300 
 horses. We saw no superior animals, nor anything 
 worthy of a visit, although a Gusher had spoken 
 highly of the place. The four ankles of the animals 
 are separately tied, allowing but a few feet of liberty. 
 
 Amber (or Anibar) is a suburb of Jeypore. A 
 ride of an hour takes you through several miles of 
 cacti to the foot of a hill. There you mount an 
 elephant and he climbs up and paces down grade for 
 forty minutes more. You go through old gateways, 
 past walls which zig-zag the mountain for miles, 
 through a village which was centuries ago a town 
 enter the stony remnants of old fortifications and at 
 last reach a deserted palace. There is a fine garden. 
 We noticed some pomegranates encased in earthen 
 jars exactly like those our children use for penny, 
 deposit banks. These jars, however, are so divided 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 171 
 
 that they can be opened and again tied together. 
 The object is to protect the ripening fruit from the 
 birds. 
 
 There are the usual halls of audience. One of those 
 at Amber has a more beautiful ceiling than its 
 counterparts at Delhi or Agra. The Maharajah's 
 sanctum is lined with little mirrors, reflecting a hun- 
 dred heads and hands for each reality. Last of all, sad- 
 dest of all, there was the room of sacrifice to Kale, the 
 Goddess of Destruction. It is a marble chamber 
 about twenty feet deep, and forty feet wide. There 
 are two small pictures of this Destroyer. Three 
 arches represent places of invocation and a hole 
 covered with ashes is the spot where for years a 
 human being was offered every day. When it was 
 feared that the population could hardly stand this, 
 a bullock was sacrificed. As these animals became 
 scarce a goat was substituted. And so it remains. 
 
 You meet many peacocks and monkeys enjoying 
 their wild liberty, and as the night closes 'round 
 thousands of crows w r ildly wend their way through 
 the air seeking shelter in the trees, always preferring 
 the leafless branches. 
 
 Why did the Maharajah in the years gone by for- 
 sake the beautiful palace we visited and build him- 
 self another, almost at the side of the deserted 
 castle? This was the cmestion we put to the guide. 
 The answer was suggestive. He said, "simply be- 
 
112 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 cause they believe that it is not good luck to live in 
 the same place more than 500 years." 
 
 This ruler we are told has no children. He had 
 two daughters, but they died. 
 
 The weather remains cold (January). Fires in 
 bed-rooms and overcoat outside save in the glare of 
 the sun. The thick walls and absence of light give 
 the chambers the appearance of dungeons. High up, 
 nine or ten feet above the floor is a sort of transom 
 sash admitting but a modicum of illumination. Fre- 
 quently during the day a light is needed to read or 
 write. Rooms constructed for the fierce heats of sum- 
 mer are rather cheerless when the thermometer is 
 below 60. 
 
 Bombay is by rail 699 miles (thirty-three hours) 
 from Jeypore. The journey requires two nights, with 
 the usual trouble about refreshments. Hurried 
 meals and ignorant servants. This trip across India 
 via Benares, Lucknow, Cawnpore, Agra, Delhi, and 
 Jeypore is about 1895 miles. The straight line 
 would be about 1400 miles. Bombay is warm, the 
 latitude being eighteen degrees north. Philadelphia 
 time, twelve o'clock noon — here, ten P. M. The 
 city is located on the sea. In the harbor are many 
 vessels, some of them ships of war. The islands 
 make a handsome picture. 
 
 The Island of Bombay was given to the English 
 
174: FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 
 
 crown in 1661 by Portugal as part of the dowry of 
 Catharine of Braganza, but it was not delivered by 
 the Portuguese until 1665. 
 
 In 1668 Charles II sold all his rights in Bombay 
 to the East India Company for the magnificent sum 
 of £10 per annum! 
 
 The present city was then only an unhealthy 
 fishing village, but being on an island it was safe 
 from the cavalry of Mahratta. As Surat had been 
 raided a few years before, the Western Presidency 
 was withdrawn from Surat and located at Bombay 
 in 1687. The population was then about 10,000. 
 It is now above 800,000; over one-half are Hindoos; 
 the Mohammedans number 200,000, the Parsees 
 50,000, the Europeans only about 12,000. 
 
 There is a large commingling of many races. 
 The trade has swollen to 160,000,000 sterling an- 
 nually. Over one-half of this passes through the 
 Suez Canal. 
 
 The city boasts of many superb buildings. The 
 Victoria Terminus is one of the finest in the world. 
 It is of the Italian Gothic style with a front of over 
 1500 feet. The walls and roof of the interior are 
 decorated with blue and gold. The Administrative 
 office building occupies three sides of a square with 
 a fine garden. A high tower rises over the centre 
 surmounted by a figure representing Progress. A 
 statue of the Empress-Queen is in front of the 
 building. 
 
176 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 The Royal Alfred Sailors' Home is well 
 worthy of notice. I have not the means of com- 
 paring it with the Home at Liverpool, but both are 
 splendid institutions. The Bombay building seems 
 to be the larger of the two. It is a beautiful struc- 
 ture and was completed in 1876. Its object is to 
 secure a shelter for sailors. Here they are safe from 
 the boarding house plunderers. The cost to each 
 sailor is only one rupee (about twenty-five cents) a 
 day. Officers pay thirty-eight cents a day. The lot- 
 is about three acres; thebuilding is fire-proof through- 
 out. There is a fine library and reading room. 
 Boards for draughts and chess are supplied. There 
 are dining rooms, bath-rooms and every comfort. 
 The establishment can accommodate five hundred. 
 The ship-wrecked and distressed are entertained 
 free of charge. 
 
 The Caves of Elephanta are lauded by travel- 
 lers as objects of special attraction. They are not 
 worth the trouble and expense of a visit. They are 
 on an island sometimes called Gharapuri (the hill 
 of Purification) and again Garrapuri (the city of 
 Excavations). Years ago a stone elephant stood on 
 a hill near by, and the Portuguese called the island 
 Elaphanta. The statue has long since been removed 
 and is now in the A'ictoria Gardens. The island is 
 about seven miles from Bombav. A little steamer 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 177 
 
 carries you there in 
 about an hour. You 
 must, however, get into 
 a small boat and be 
 rocked and wet and 
 rowed some five min- 
 utes to a curious land- 
 ing, composed of con- 
 crete blocks extending 
 far out into the bay. 
 Mounting on these a 
 walk of five minutes 
 takes you to a fearful 
 succession of stone steps 
 leading considerably 
 over a quarter of a mile 
 up an ascent of over one 
 hundred and fifty feet. 
 Here you must pay 
 another fee to enter the 
 sacred ground. A few- 
 feet bring you to a hall 
 cut out of the black 
 rock, some say 133 feet 
 by 130 feet. Others say 
 ninety feet square. It 
 rests on pillars from 
 fifteen to seventeen feet 
 in height. Instead of 
 
 A HINDOO BRAHMIN GI RL. 
 
178 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 being of considerable elegance, they are without a 
 particle of attraction. There is a three-headed 
 figure on the wall, said to represent Shiv in the 
 character of Brahma — Shiv as Rudra the destroyer. 
 This is embellished with a swelling above the nose, 
 said to represent a third eye. And the third face is 
 called Shiv in the character of Vishna, the pre- 
 server. Cobras and a human skull are cut. It is 
 stated that "the royal tiara is most beautifully 
 carved," and that the "face has a stern, command- 
 ing Roman expression." But this is all imagina- 
 tion. There is nothing beautiful or commanding 
 about any of the figures. An apartment to the left 
 and a chamber on the other side contain equally 
 hideous carvings, all without a particle of symmetry 
 or attraction. It is said that these were cut 1200 
 years ago. This is probably the only truth stated 
 by guide books and frothy writers. 
 
 The view of the city and the bay was the only 
 return for an afternoon lost and five rupees spent. 
 
 The Towers of Silence are also represented as 
 an attraction. The drive occupies an hour. On 
 Malabar Hill you have a splendid view of Bombay 
 and the sea. This is all of your return. You enter 
 gates, climb a hill and are received by a Parsee into 
 a large area, said to be of 75,000 square yards. 
 There is nothing wonderful here. A small stone 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 179 
 
 building is used for prayer and service over the 
 dead; it can not be called a burial "service. Then 
 there are five structures called towers but they are 
 not towers in any proper sense of the word. They 
 are square, ugly-looking affairs about twenty-five 
 feet in height, with an entrance at the end of an 
 
 LUCKNOW— THE MARTINIERE. 
 
 elevated road, about half way to the top. It is said 
 that the dead are carried inside and placed in rows. 
 In every building there are 216 ledges in three 
 circles of seventy-two each, all side by side, not one 
 above the other. Seventy-two are for male adults, 
 these are in the circle next to the walls, sevent}^-two 
 
180 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 for female adults in the second circle, and seventy- 
 two for children in the centre circle. The five 
 towers can therefore accommodate 1080 bodies. In 
 the centre of each is a well. The bodies are left 
 exposed; the vultures strip them of their flesh 
 and then the bones are thrown into the well. One 
 is shown a wooden model of a single building and 
 then he goes away slightly nauseated. We were 
 told that two bodies had been carried into the 
 building pointed out to us a few hours before. On 
 the top were half a do/en vultures. Imagination 
 supplied the horrid, disgusting, cruel blank. 
 
 The public buildings speak well for English taste 
 and enterprise. The University Hall, the Yacht 
 Club, the Schools, Police Courts, Post Office and the 
 Secretariat are all structures of which any city 
 might be proud. 
 
 Pinjraroot is the name of a new market in which 
 are hospital enclosures for lame and sick animals, 
 who are fed and tenderly cared for. The Hindoo 
 deserves all praise for his mercy to beasts. Lame 
 bullocks, wounded cows, homeless dogs, and even 
 sick pigeons, find a refuge here. 
 
 A large proportion of the colored population in 
 Bombay are Parsees. They seem to be wealthy, 
 enterprising and benevolent citizens. Their schools 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 181 
 
 merit high commendation. Their dress is European 
 with the exception of the Persian hat. 
 
 The poverty of the lower classes, and the climate, 
 
 A PARSEE PRIEST. 
 
 account for the number of bare feet and bare legs 
 seen amongst the Hindoos. Of the men, it seemed 
 to me, 90 per cent, were more or less naked from 
 the hips down. One third of these denuded males 
 
181 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 wear nothing below the thighs. Some of them 
 have only a girdle. A large number however wear 
 a sort of a petticoat or apron which comes below the 
 
 A PARSEE LADY. 
 
 knee, but is then turned backwards to the waist be- 
 hind. This arrangement covers the greater part of 
 the limbs in front, but leaves the rear of the legs 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 183 
 
 almost entirely nude. The women are, as a general 
 thing, all covered, a large percentage however have 
 
 i 
 
 \ \\ 
 
 *> 
 
 ?s>* 
 
 A BRAHMIN WOMAN. 
 
 bare feet and many of them sport rings on their toes. 
 Some of the sex are more exposed. When one is 
 12 
 
184 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 walking through a narrow and crowded thorough- 
 fare swarming with these brown skins, some in 
 part unclothed, others shining in brilliant colors, 
 it is a picture which pen can hardly paint and 
 which reminds you of a kaleidoscope. 
 
 The weather here in January is delightful. Open 
 doors and windows, with fine sea breezes. It seems 
 a happy escape from the fierce storms and biting 
 cold, the sneezing, wheezing, and coughing of 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 The curious names seen on signs, and on the 
 street corners, are illustrated by a few specimens : 
 
 Sabapathy Moodeliar & Co., Bank St. 
 
 Shagwan Dass Hurjeevan ct Co., Custom House 
 Road. 
 
 B. W. Pathuck, Tamarind Lane. 
 
 Cowasjee Brother, Cowasjee Patel St. 
 
 Cursetjee Muncherjee Bhesenia & Co., Hornby Rd. 
 
 Currimbhoy Ebrahim & Co., Khoja Mohulla. 
 
 Dinthaw D. Curranee & Co., Cowesjee Patel St. 
 
 Dorabjee Shapoorjee & Co., Elphintstone Circle. 
 
 Hamshedjee Nusserwanjee Tata, Paree Mazaar St. 
 
 Merwanjee Nusserwanjee Sons & Co., Medows St. 
 
 Mooljee Jaitha & Co., Tamarind Lane. 
 
 Muncherjee Nowrojee Banajee & Co., Hornby Rd. 
 
 Mansukhlall, Demodar ife Jumsetjee, Medows St. 
 
 Nusserwanjee Bomanjee Mody & Co., Hornby Rd. 
 
 Nanabhoy B. Jajeebhoy & Co., Hornby Rd. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 185 
 
 N. S. Pochajee & Co., Custom House Rd. 
 N. V. Curranee & Co., Custom House Rd. 
 Pestanjee, Rustim & Kola, Medows St. 
 Purshotam Bandoojee & Co., Medows St. 
 R. Ranchandra & Co., Forbes St. 
 Ruttonsey, Denso &, Co., Elphinstone Circle. 
 Sorabjee Shapoorjee & Co., Medows St. 
 Sorabshah & Co., Medows St. 
 Tata & Sons, Parsee Bazaar St. 
 Tanidass Vurjdass & Co., Dalai St. 
 Thakurdaas Dharamsi & Co., Esplanado Rd. 
 Tbarie Topuu, Samuel St. 
 Tyabjee & Co., Humnum St. 
 Visram Ebrahim & Co., Samuel St. 
 
 The Cyclones. — In the Autumn terrible storms 
 have been known to inflict fearful disasters. All the- 
 Eastern shore of India is exposed to these visita- 
 tions. A history of them has been given by Mr. 
 Lanier in his excellent work, " Asia." He describes 
 the storm of October 31, 1876, as destroying in one 
 hour and without warning, 215,000 lives, each city 
 losing 70 per cent, of its population. This was fol- 
 lowed by the cholera. 
 
186 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 ^B| FTER enduring the inconveniences of 
 'ffnl^ a journey across India, the rest and 
 comforts of Bombay produced a 
 regret when the hour of departure 
 arrived. The Peninsular and 
 Oriental Company's steamers fur- 
 nish every luxury. This com- 
 pany has been in existence fifty- 
 four years, having been incorpo- 
 rated by Royal Charter, December 
 31, 1840. Its authorized capital 
 is £3,500,000, of which there has been issued 
 and paid up, £2,320,000. It owns a fleet of fifty- 
 one ships, and has now in course of construc- 
 tion seven more vessels. Besides these there are 
 twenty-three tugs and launches, making a total 
 tonnage of 259,593 tons, with 243,545 effective horse 
 power. Its management is composed of the best 
 men, and the results are most gratifying. The re- 
 ceipts for 1894 were over £2,300,000, on which divi- 
 dends equal to 5 per cent, on the preferred, and 10 
 per cent, on the deferred stock were distributed. 
 The coal preferred is the Welsh. Its average cost, 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 187 
 
 the year round, counting freight, etc., is from 
 twenty to twenty-five shilling a ton. The Peninsu- 
 lar burns about sixty-five tons a day. The largest 
 boat, "The Caledonian," consumes eighty tons a 
 day. These boats pay tolls on the Suez canal, at the 
 rate of eight francs a ton, and twenty-five francs a 
 head. This company paid to the Suez Company in 
 1894, over a million of dollars. From Bombay to 
 Aden is 1660 miles. The voyage took four days 
 and thirteen hours. Aden is a coaling port at the 
 southwest corner of Arabia. The mountains rise 
 all round it very abruptly and the summits are bare 
 and rugged. It is said that the rain only falls once 
 in three years. Here the old Romans had a settle- 
 ment and traces of their civilization still exist. 
 The Gulf of Aden leads to the straits of Babel-men- 
 deb. This is Arabic, it seems, for the "Gate of 
 Weeping." It is the entrance to the Red Sea, 
 abounding in shoals. The navigation was so dis- 
 astrous that the ancients gave to the entrance this 
 poetical name. The Strait is only about one mile 
 in width. To the left on an eminence stands Perim, 
 also controlled by the British. Marvelous and far- 
 reaching power! Away from the breezes, the air is 
 very hot. Awnings on deck and punkas in the 
 cabin keep one happy. The Lascars compose the 
 working crews of these vessels. They are inhabi- 
 tants of India, to the south of Bombay, are very 
 
188 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 dark, generally wear beards, always have red tur- 
 bans and look very savage. They are described as 
 teachable, but the slowness with which they got a 
 boat uncovered and swung it to the side, seemed 
 almost comical. Instead of compelling them to 
 learn English, the poor officers are forced to learn 
 the dialect of their seamen. When I asked why 
 ordinary Hindoos were not hired, the captain told 
 me they would lose caste if they came to sea. The 
 first-class fare from Bombay to Brindisi is $175. 
 From Brindisi to London, including sleeping car, is 
 $74. As this latter takes only two clays, it seems to 
 be the highest rate known. 
 
 The distances are: 
 
 Bombay to Aden . . . 1660 Miles. 
 
 Aden to Ismailia . . . 1356 " 
 
 Ismalia to Port Said . . . 43 " 
 
 Port Said to Brindisi . . 930 " 
 
 3989 " 
 Brindisi to London (by rail and 
 
 channel boat) . . . 1450 " 
 
 5439 " 
 
 Suez. — On the fourth day you reach Suez, 1309 
 miles from Aden. In the Bay you pass Sinai, and 
 further on, one of the places assigned by tradition as 
 the crossing of the Israelites. Still another spot is 
 fixed for this great miracle up near Bitter Lake, in- 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 189 
 
 side of the canal. Suez, once a great place for trade, 
 has of course lost its importance since the construc- 
 tion of the canal. Great credit is due to de Lesseps 
 and his associates for their courage and perseverance 
 in this behalf. But the truth is, that a canal ex- 
 isted as far back as the reign of Pharaoh Necho, 
 and the five lakes which form part of the passage 
 reduced the prestige of a work at- most but ninety- 
 eight miles in extent. Lord Palmerston was at heart 
 against the enterprise; he wisely feared political com- 
 plications. But though liberal in profession he was 
 ever asking, what is the use? and how can this be 
 avoided ? In this spirit he commissioned two eminent 
 engineers to examine the whole scheme. They em- 
 balmed themselves in history by a report that the 
 canal was impracticable and that the Mediterranean 
 was two feet and some inches above the Red Sea, a de- 
 duction absolutely negatived by the fact. The canal 
 was finished in 1868 despite these prophecies. Years 
 afterwards DTsraeli, acting under the interested but 
 able advice of Rothschild secured a grand result for 
 Great Britain by purchasing the stock at 80. These 
 and many other interesting items were given to me 
 by Captain Briscoe, of "The Peninsular," who many 
 years ago showed his faith in the enterprise by in- 
 vesting his savings in the stock when low down at 
 20. The result has proved his sagacity to be superior 
 to English statesmen and engineers, for the shares 
 
90 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 now command, he says, 120. The entrance of the 
 canal, called Port Tewfik, two and a half miles 
 from Suez, is marked b}* two buoys and the whole 
 channel is staked. At night it is all lighted. The 
 only place of interest in the neighborhood is in Asia, 
 about two miles from Suez. It is called "The Wells 
 of Moses," and is reached by crossing the canal and 
 by a ride on a donkey. On either side Arabia and 
 Egypt vie in their display of long, low stretches of 
 desert. Here and there is a village, or a camp of 
 Arabs and camels. Occasionally there is a pretty 
 station with a palm tree, the rest is a desolation, 
 marked only by buoys, little gas tanks to illuminate 
 the channel; men and camels engaged in cutting off 
 corners and small posts marking the miles and tenths 
 of miles. Vessels may follow; two are astern as I 
 write, but passing abreast, both in motion is not al- 
 lowed. One ship must tie up. The channel is very 
 narrow, in places not over 150 feet in width and is 
 shallow. At the sides of the passage a few feet of 
 water cover shoals visible to the eye and the banks 
 are lined with stone walls and little palisades to pro- 
 tect from the wash. Dredgers are also employed. 
 The time usually consumed in passing from Suez to 
 Port Said is fifteen hours. Of course an accident 
 may obstruct commerce for some time. A passenger 
 told me that he had been delayed here four days. 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 191 
 
 Ismailia is on Lake Timsah half way between 
 Suez and Port Said. Travellers can land at Suez, 
 and take the rail to Ismailia (three hours) and thence 
 to Cairo about four hours. Or as the time table may 
 require, they can leave the boat at Ismailia. The 
 majority prefer this plan. The rail also runs to 
 Alexandria, three hours to Cairo by the fast line. 
 
 Port Said is about seven hours by boat from Is- 
 mailia. It is the northern terminus of the canal 
 and its little area is owned in strips by several sov- 
 ereignties. It is remarkable only for its splendid 
 breakwaters and its vices. 
 
 Caxdia. — On the second day from Port Said we 
 passed a little to the south of Canclia (Crete). This 
 beautiful island is 160 miles long and for several 
 hours we looked with admiration on its high moun- 
 tains covered with snow. The light of the setting 
 sun made them the handsomest object seen in a very 
 long voyage. Here Paul sailed and crossed to the 
 little Island of Claudia. 
 
 Zaxte. — Remarkable for currants and earth- 
 quakes. Cephalonia and other islands were passed 
 on the third day from Port Said. We are due this 
 midnight at Brindisi, nearly thirteen days from 
 Bombay. All over these routes the stoppages seem 
 timed for unwelcome hours. Those who land and 
 
192 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 
 
 those who remain are alike tortured by these un- 
 timely arrivals. 
 
 From Brindisi to London the overland mail takes 
 about fiftv hours. 
 
 HISTORIC SKETCH OF THE ANGLO-INDIAN 
 EMPIRE. 
 
 The effective control of a domain of vast terri- 
 torial extent, containing a population of over 200 
 millions, perhaps a full sixth of that of the entire 
 globe, by a people utterly inferior in point of num- 
 bers, and whose seat is at the remote Antipodes, is a 
 phenomenon which, both in its historic and sociologi- 
 cal aspects, is singular and striking. Apart from its 
 political significance, the growing importance of 
 British India as a factor in the world's affairs and 
 its increasing influence on economic conditions in 
 this country, will make a brief review of the devel- 
 opment of British rule in India of interest to 
 every American reader. The following historic 
 sketch has accordingly been condensed for these 
 pages from the lucid recital, by W. W. Hunter, in 
 his " Brief History of the Indian People." 
 
 The first territorial possession of the English on 
 the mainland of the Indian peninsula was Fort St. 
 
AKOUND THE WORLD 193 
 
 George, now Madras, founded by Francis Day in 
 1639. The French settlement of Pondicherri, about 
 one hundred miles farther down the east or Coro- 
 mandel coast, was established in 1674, and for about 
 seventy years the two races lived and traded peace- 
 ably together. The war between England and 
 France in 1744 broke this long peace. Dupleix, 
 one of the ablest Frenchmen of his time was 
 Governor of Pondicherri. The other great actor in 
 Indian history, Clive, the Englishman, was then in 
 a business office, at Madras. An English fleet first 
 put in an appearance, but Dupleix by skillful 
 diplomacy induced the native prince, the Nawab of 
 Arcot, to prevent hostilities. In 1746 a French 
 fleet appeared and Madras surrendered almost with- 
 out a blow, leaving Fort St. David, some miles 
 south of Pondicherri, the only fort held by the 
 English race in India. Here Clive and a few other 
 fugitives sought shelter. The Nawab, endeavoring 
 to be entirely impartial sought to drive out the 
 French but was defeated. In 1768 an English fleet 
 under Boscawen laid siege to Pondicherri aided by 
 an army under Lawrence, but unsuccessfully. The 
 treaty of Aix-la-Chappelle, however, restored 
 Madras to the English. 
 
 The second war between the French and English 
 in India had no reference to European complica- 
 tions. Disputed successions among the native 
 
194 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 princes gave Dupleix the chance of becoming- 
 arbiter, who by this means hoped to erect a great 
 French empire in India. Had Dupleix been as 
 great in the field as he was able and bold in 
 diplomacy history for the 200,000,000 of India 
 would have been different. It was, however, the 
 good fortune of the English to have a series of able 
 soldiers, the chief of whom was Lord Clive. The 
 capture and defence of Arcot by Clive in 1751, the 
 battle of Wandewash, won by Sir Eyre Coote in 
 1760 and the capture of Pondicherri by the same 
 soldier in 1761 ended forever the dream of Dupleix 
 of founding an empire in India. This was the close 
 of the war between the English and French in India, 
 brought about by their support of rival candidates 
 for the throne of Arcot. The next steps for the 
 foundation of English supremacy were taken against 
 the native princes, the scene shifting with Clive to 
 Bengal, the northern part of India. 
 
 The war in Bengal, of which the famous battle of 
 IMassey (1757) was the turning point, began like 
 the war of 1746, in the fact of the French and English 
 being at war with each other in Europe. Clive 
 captured the French settlement of Chandarnagar on 
 the Hoogli River, near Calcutta. This was within 
 the domains of the Navvab of Bengal, Surajah Daw- 
 lah, the man responsible for the "Black Hole" epi- 
 sode of Calcutta, in 1756. Outraged at this violation 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 195 
 
 of neutrality the Nawab sided with the French. 
 Clive marched to the grove of Plassey, seventy 
 miles from Calcutta, with a force of 1000 Europeans, 
 2000 Sepoys and eight pieces of artillery. The 
 Nawab is said to have had 35,000 foot, 15,000 
 cavalry and fifty guns. He attacked with his whole 
 artillery at six in the morning. Clive, knowing his 
 inferiority in this respect kept his men well sheltered 
 "in a grove, surrounded with good mud banks." At 
 noon, the Nawab's men drew off for dinner, feeling, 
 no doubt, perfectly safe in their vast superiority of 
 numbers and equipment. Whilst at dinner, Clive 
 attacked one of their outposts, and stormed "an 
 angle of the camp." Several leading officers of the 
 Nawab fell and the latter, surprised at the confusion, 
 fled, his troops flying in panic. Clive, no doubt, as 
 much surprised as any, found himself winner of a 
 great victory, and the British Empire in India was 
 born. This day was June 23, 1757, an anniversary 
 celebrated 100 years later by the blood and terror ot 
 the revolt of the Sepoys in 1857. 
 
 In 1758, Clive was appointed by the East India 
 Company the first governor of all its settlements in 
 Bengal. Though Plassey is generally deemed to 
 have given birth to the Indian Empire, yet years of 
 toil and bloodshed were yet to come before it should 
 be firmly founded. Indeed, it may be said, not to 
 have been absolutely entrenched until after the Se- 
 
196 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 poy mutiny of 1857. Clive found two wars threat- 
 ened immediatly upon his accession to the governor- 
 ship, one by the Shahzada, or, as he was called after- 
 wards, the Emperor Shah Alain, the other by the 
 French at Madras. The former leading an army of 
 Afghans and Mahrattas, and supported by the 
 Nawab of Oudh, asserted his claim, as Emperor, to 
 the province of Bengal and laid siege to Patna, an 
 important post about 600 miles northwest of Cal- 
 cutta. Clive marched in person to the rescue, with 
 the ridiculously small force of 450 Europeans and 
 2500 Sepoys ; yet so great was the terror of his very 
 name that the Mogul army dispersed without waiting 
 to be attacked. In the south, Colonel Forde recaptured 
 Masilupatam from the French, and permantly estab- 
 lished English authority at Hyderabad and through 
 the northern Circars. Clive in person attacked the 
 Dutch and defeated them, both on land and sea, and 
 rendered them utterly unable to rival the English, 
 to aid the French, or even hold their own settle- 
 ments, or anything else than the sufferance of the 
 victors. 
 
 From 1760 to 1765 Clive was in England and a 
 war sprung up in his absence. Mir Jafar, whom 
 the English had just put as their puppet upon the 
 viceregal throne of Murshidabad to succeed the 
 Siraj-ud-Daula (or Surajah Dowlah), after the 
 defeat of the latter at Plassey, as already described, 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 197 
 
 was displaced and Mir Kasim, his son-in-law, was 
 seated in his throne. The latter proceeded to in- 
 trigue with the Nawab of Oudh, already mentioned, 
 and to organize a force on the English model, with 
 the hope of trying conclusions with the latter. A 
 quarrel over the inland duties in Bengal afforded 
 the excuse, the natives refusing to pay to the Na- 
 wab's officers on the ground that they (the natives) 
 were acting for the English company. The Na- 
 wab's men massacred 2000 Sepoys at Patna and 
 some hundreds of Europeans who fell into their 
 hands there and in other parts of the province. In 
 pitched battles, however, Mir Kasim's trained regi- 
 ments were utterly defeated by Major Adams at 
 Gheriah and Udha-nala and the leader took refuge 
 with the Nawab of Oudh. To add to the difficulties 
 of the English, the first Sepoy mutiny broke out in 
 their camp. It was quelled by Sir Hector Munro 
 and twenty-four ringleaders were blown from the 
 mouths of cannon, this being an old Mogul form of 
 punishment. The war ended by Sir Hector's decis- 
 ive victory at Baxar in 1764, which laid Oudh at 
 the feet of the English and brought the Mogul Em- 
 peror, himself, Shah Alam (already mentioned as 
 the prince Shahzada) a suppliant to the camp of the 
 conquerors. 
 
 In 1765 Clive returned to India as Governor of 
 Bengal. He restored Oudh to the Nawab for halt 
 
198 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 
 
 a million sterling, toward war expenses. A puppet 
 was maintained at Murshidabad and the fiscal ad- 
 ministration only of Bengal, Behar and Orissa, as 
 well as the territorial jurisdiction of the Northern 
 Circars was given to the East Indian Company. A 
 task much greater for dive, however, was the re-or- 
 ganization of the Civil Service of the company. 
 This was brought about by an increase in salaries 
 and a prohibition to all officers from engaging in 
 private trade and from receiving presents (that is, 
 bids) from the native powers. Clive returned to 
 England finally in 1767. 
 
 The great famine of 1770, in which it is said that 
 one third of the people of India perished, was the 
 only great event between this date and the governor- 
 ship of the famous Warren Hastings, beginning in 
 1772. Clive's double system of control already 
 adverted to was shown to be a failure. The puppet 
 Nawab of Murshidabad had received an allowance 
 from the English of 600,000 pounds sterling, when 
 first appointed by Clive. The latter before leaving 
 India had himself cut this enormous sum down to 
 450,000 pounds, in 1766, on the accession of a new 
 Nawab, and to 350,000 pounds on a fresh succession 
 in 1769. Six months before Clive became governor, 
 the Court of Directors of the East India Company 
 had ordered the sum cut down about one-half, or to 
 about 160,000 pounds. Hastings carried this order 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 199 
 
 out, though in his famous trial before the English 
 Parliament, this was charged against him, as an act 
 of oppression and of treaty breaking as to the 
 Nawab. Another act of Hastings was the sale of 
 Allahabad and Kora to the Wazir of Oudh. 
 
 The provinces had been assigned to the Emperor 
 Shah Alam, already mentioned together with a 
 tribute of 300,000 pounds sterling in return for the 
 grant of Bengal to the English. Shortly after this 
 grant the Marhattas, a warlike northern race, had 
 attacked the Emperor and seized his person. Hast- 
 ings held that this destroyed the Emperor's inde- 
 pendence and that it would be folly to continue pay- 
 ing tribute to have it fall into the hands of the Mar- 
 hattas, thus strengthening their hands against the 
 time when the English should have to fight them. 
 He therefore withheld the tribute. He also resold 
 Allahabad and Kora to the Wazir of Oudh for half 
 a million sterling and at the same time freed the 
 company of a military burden of nearly as much 
 more, making a saving in Indian finances of nearly 
 five million dollars per annum. Chait Sinh, the 
 Rajah of Benares, revolted, and his estates were for- 
 feited ; the Begum, or Queen Mother of Oudh, on a 
 charge of abetting him was also fined to the extent 
 of one million sterling. Hastings' trial before the 
 Lords for these and other acts of oppression lasting 
 13 
 
200 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 
 
 from 1788 to 1795, was one of the greatest state 
 trials of history. 
 
 It resulted in his acquittal but left him ruined. 
 The excuse offered for Warren Hastings' course was 
 that he had to fight for life against princes who broke 
 faith with him and that he used his power more 
 mercifully than any Mogul Viceroy would have 
 done. That he was the greatest man that ever ruled 
 India is now universally admitted. 
 
 The Marhatta war of 1778-1781 was signalized 
 by brave acts, but beyond this seems to have been 
 entirely fruitless. The war with Hyder Ali, of 
 Mysore and the Nizam of the Deccan, the two 
 strongest Mohammedan powers in India, was almost 
 disastrous to the English. Hyder cut several English 
 forces to pieces and ravaged the Karnatic, an English 
 province, so that it was said not a living thing re- 
 mained in it. Hyder was an able soldier and, 
 when he died in 1782, peace was concluded with 
 his son by mutual restitution of all conquests. 
 
 Lord Cornwallis was twice governor general, first 
 from 1786 to 1793 and again in 1805. He im- 
 proved and built upon the foundations of civil 
 administration laid by Hastings, first gave criminal 
 jurisdiction to Europeans and carried into execution 
 the permanent settlement of the land tax for Ben- 
 gal. In the second Mysore war with Tipu Sultan, 
 son of Hyder Ali (1790-1792), Lord Cornwallis led 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 201 
 
 in person, conquering from the enemy one-half of 
 his possessions and exacting tribute of three mil- 
 lions sterling. 
 
 Sir John Shore (afterward Lord Teignmouth) was 
 governor-general from 1793 to 1798, and was suc- 
 ceeded by Lord Mornington, better known as the 
 Marquis of Wellesley. He is credited with laying 
 down the Imperial policy of India, viz : that Eng- 
 land should be the one paramount power and that 
 native princes should only be permitted to reign by 
 surrendering their political independence. The 
 logical and final result of this was the proclamation 
 of Victoria as Empress of India, on January 1, 1877. 
 Wellesly bought the Doab, a fertile province, from 
 the Nawab Wazir of Oudh in consideration of the 
 unpaid balance of subsidies owed by the latter to the 
 English. He entered into treaty with the Nizam 
 of Hyderabad and without bloodshed turned him 
 into an ally. He also made him promise to employ 
 no Europeans without English consent, a provision 
 aimed to destroy the French influence at the 
 Nizam's Court. Tippoo, the Sultan of Mysore, had 
 intrigued with the French and war was declared 
 against him. As became a soldier and a king he 
 died in the trench at the storming of Seringapatam, 
 1799. His estates were divided between the Eng- 
 lish, their native allies' and an infant Hindu prince 
 whose ancestors had been robbed by Tippoo's father. 
 
202 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 the Great Hycler Ali. Tippoo's sons were treated 
 with the greatest kindness, and the last of his 
 descendants died, a magistrate at Calcutta, in 1877. 
 After this the English devoted their attention to the 
 loose Marhatta Confederacy, the third power of 
 Southern India. The second Marhatta War (1802- 
 1803) followed, said to be the most glorious chapter 
 in the English Wars in India, though there were 
 some disasters, as in the first war with Hyder Ali in 
 Mysore. In Northwestern India, Lord Lake's cam- 
 paigns brought the northwest provinces under 
 English rule together with the old Emperor, the 
 puppet successor of the Great Mogul. This office of 
 Emperor actually maintained a shadowy existence 
 at Delhi till 1857, the Sepoy revolt. 
 
 In 1805 Lord Corn wal lis was again sent to India, 
 but died at Ghazipur before having been ten weeks 
 in the country. Sir George Barlow succeeded dur- 
 ing a few months. During his term another mutiny 
 of Sepoys occurred at Vellore (1806). It was brief 
 and promptly suppressed but sent a feeling of 
 insecurity through the empire. Lord Minto, 
 governor-general from 1807 to 1813, was dis- 
 tinguished by few military operations, though the 
 governor managed to consolidate Wellesley's con- 
 quests and keep the peace without sacrificing 
 English prestige. 
 
 The successor of Lord Minto was the Earl of 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 203 
 
 Moira, better known as Marquis of Hastings (1814- 
 1823). Two wars of the first magnitude and the 
 suppression of the free-booting Pindaris, in Central 
 India, characterize this period. The first war was 
 with the hardy little Goorkhas, in Nepaul, in 1814- 
 15, in which the English, at first fairly beaten, 
 finally succeeded in obtaining their own terms. 
 The other was with the Marhattas and resulted in 
 the final subjection of these war-like people, and the 
 giving of orderly and good government to their 
 wretched retainers. The war against the Pindaris 
 was of an altogether different character. These 
 people were not a race like the Marhattas nor were 
 they bound together by purely religious ties, as the 
 Sikhs. They were merely plundering bands, like 
 the free companies of mediaeval Europe, with no 
 community of race or religious sentiment. They 
 preyed over much of Central India from Madras to 
 Bombay and one of their chiefs had an organized 
 army of many regiments and considerable artillery. 
 Lord Hastings collected 120,000 men to operate 
 against them and they were finally completely over- 
 come. 
 
 Lord Amherst ruled from 1823 to 1828 and had 
 two wars to carry on, the first Burmese campaign 
 and the capture of Bhurtpoor. The Burmese 
 War (1824-26) was forced on the English by 
 Burmese raids and the refusal of the raiders to con- 
 
204 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 sider any peaceful proposals. It cost the English 
 the lives of 20,000 men and $70,000,000 and 
 resulted in the cession of two provinces. Bhurtpoor 
 was taken by Lord Combermere in 1827 by storm, 
 though a similar attempt in 1805 had resulted 
 disastrously to the English. 
 
 Lord William Bentinck, a descendant of the fam- 
 ous Bentinck, Duke of Portland, the friend and 
 counsellor of William of Orange, was governor from 
 1828 to 1835. But little war characterized his ad- 
 ministration ; but it is to his imperishable glory 
 that during his rule Lord Bentinck began the course 
 of administrative and other reform which have 
 made modern India and its millions happier and 
 better than ever in their history. He equalized 
 taxes, encouraged educated natives to enter the ser- 
 vice of the English, and abolished the burning of 
 widows and the murders of the thugs. The burn- 
 ing of widows, it was claimed, was in obedience to a 
 text in the Vedic hymns, written in the tongue 
 which is the common parent of Hindostanee, Greek, 
 Latin, Lithuanian and English. But modern schol- 
 arship had clearly shown that this use of the text 
 was the result of a mistranslation. The result of 
 this move on the part of the governor general has 
 shed most distinguished honor on the English 
 name. In 1834, the misrule of the Raja of Coorg 
 brought on a short, sharp war, the natives wishing to 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 205 
 
 be taken under English protection. This was done 
 and the Rajah retired to Benares. This was the only 
 annexation during Lord Bentinck's administration, 
 and it was done "in consideration of the unanimous 
 wish of the people." 
 
 Sir Charles (afterward Lord) Metcalfe was gover- 
 nor general in 1835-36. His administration was 
 memorable for the bestowal of full liberty to the 
 native press, a measure initiated by his predecessor. 
 
 With Lord Metcalfe's successor, Lord Auckland 
 (1836-42) begins another chapter of war, not always 
 'honorable or creditable to England. The active 
 interference in Afghan politics dates from Lord 
 Auckland's sending an army to Kabul, the Afghan 
 capital, to put Shah Shuja on the throne (1839). 
 The English army remained for two years ; but in 
 November, 1841, the English political agent, Sir 
 Alexander Burnes, was assassinated, as was also 
 Sir William Mcnaghten. After a delay of two 
 months the British Army set out in midwinter to 
 return to India. Of the 4000 fighting men and 
 12,000 camp followers, just one man, Dr. Brydon, 
 reached Jalalabad. A few prisoners were taken and 
 well treated by orders of Akbar Khan, eldest son of 
 Dost Mohammed, whom the English had dethroned 
 to put up Shah Shuja. 
 
 The garrison of Kandahar, the old capital of 
 Afghanistan, abandoned that city and coming home 
 
206 FROM INDEPENDENCE HADE 
 
 by way of Kabul, met there the army which had 
 been sent to relieve Jalalabad but had gone as far as 
 Kabul. The English contented themselves with 
 blowing up the bazaar at Kabul and recovering the 
 English prisoners and then returned to India, leav- 
 ing Dost Mohammed on the throne where he was 
 before their intervention. The withdrawal of the 
 garrisons was the work of Lord Ellenborough, who 
 succeeded Lord Auckland about a month after the 
 news of the annihilation of the army retreating 
 from Kabul reached Calcutta (1842). The conquest 
 of the Ameers of Sindh, a most unjust war, and the 
 war against Gwalior were the two other wars of Lord 
 Ellenborough's career. 
 
 Sir Henry Hardinge, a veteran of Napoleon's wars, 
 who had lost a hand at Ligny just before Waterloo, 
 succeeded Elenborough, governing from 1844 to 
 1848. His administration was characterized by the 
 conquest of the great Sikh nation, who, as already said, 
 were a great religious sect, whose history, teachings, 
 and unflinching courage were alike remarkable. The 
 great Ranjit Sinh, founder of the political power of the 
 Sikhs, had organized his fellows into regiments upon 
 a religious basis, similar to that of Gustavus Adol- 
 phus and Cromwell, and had extended his conquests 
 far and wide over the extreme north of India. He was 
 also strictly faithful to his word as given to the 
 English. After Ranjit's death, however, a different 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 207 
 
 state of things arose. In 1845 a Sikh army of 
 60,000 men with 150 guns crossed the then bound- 
 ary, the Sutlej river, and invaded India. Sir Hugh 
 Gough, English commander, fought four desperate 
 battles with them, with heavy loss. In the end, 
 however, Lahore, the Sikh capital, was taken, Sir 
 Henry Lawrence was sent there as resident, a por- 
 tion of their territory annexed and a British garrison 
 occupied the Punjab for eight years. 
 
 The Earl of Dalhousie (1848-1856) is said to have 
 left a greater impression upon India than any man 
 since the days of Clive. Whilst it is true that he 
 was compelled to fight with the Sikhs and Burmah 
 and to annex large territories, his deepest concerns 
 were for the material and moral welfare of the peo- 
 ple. He it was who gave the first impetus to the 
 network of railroads and canals w r hich, by making 
 communication easy, has rendered famines almost 
 impossible ; he it was who encouraged telegraphs 
 and steamship lines and means of improvement- 
 He had not been six months in India before the 
 second Sikh war (1848-49) broke out. The English 
 lost at the battle of Chilianwala 2400 men, four 
 guns and three regimental colors, January 13, 
 1849. Lord Gough, however, redeemed himself at 
 Gujrat, where he entirely destroyed the Sikh force. 
 The Punjab was annexed by proclamation of 29th 
 of March, 1849. The Rajah, Dhulip Sinh, was 
 
208 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 given a pension of £58,000 and lived comfortably in 
 England. 
 
 The means taken to pacificate the country were 
 so effective that the Sikhs were absolutely faithful 
 to the English when half India was ablaze during 
 the terrible mutiny soon to come. Taxes were 
 reduced, equitable laws introduced and enforced, 
 evenhanded justice meted out to the people and 
 peace and prosperity followed. The second Burmese 
 war, following the ill-treatment of some English 
 merchants at Rangoon, resulted (1852) in the 
 annexation of a large part of the valley of the 
 Irawadi. Here, too, the effect of orderly govern- 
 ment was soon seen. The trade of Rangoon 
 increased four- fold in twenty-five } r ears and its pop-, 
 ulation has been multiplied by ten since annexa- 
 tion. Lord Dalhousie acted throughout on the 
 theory that the good of the governed was the 
 purpose of government; and in pursuance of this 
 idea, whilst rigorously respecting the rights of 
 reigning princes, invariably annexed possessions in 
 which the incumbent had died leaving no natural 
 heir. This was done, too, even in the cases in 
 which the princes sought to over-reach the English 
 by adopting heirs to the inheritances. Ouclh was 
 also annexed in 1856, and the king was given an 
 annual pension of $600,000. The orders to Sir 
 James Outram, the resident, were to assume the 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 209 
 
 administration, on the ground that " the British 
 Government would be guilty in the sight of God 
 and man if it were any longer to aid in sustaining 
 by its countenance an administration fraught with 
 suffering to millions;" this was in reference to the 
 rule of the native prince whom the English thus 
 finally displaced. The annexation was only decided 
 upon after repeated warnings to the Nawabs, ex- 
 tending over a long series of years, that they must 
 govern justly and humanely or suffer the conse- 
 quences. The irony of fate was such, however, that 
 these very acts of humanity and amelioration were 
 probably leading causes in the great revolt of the 
 following year. 
 
 The appointment of Earl Canning (1856-62) was 
 soon followed by the terrible mutiny of 1857, the 
 last great tragedy in the long, checkered, but in the 
 main, highly honorable career of England in India. 
 It seems singular, that even to this day, the exact 
 cause of this great tradegy is not known. It is 
 probable, as already remarked, that the spread of 
 civilization and of Western reforms had the effect of 
 alarming Hindoo public opinion and of conveying 
 the impression that their nationalities and religions 
 were in danger. The introduction of rifles into the 
 army required the use of lubricated paper envelope 
 cartridges, which, before being loaded, had to be bit- 
 ten off on the end. The report that the lubricating 
 
210 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALE 
 
 material was hog's lard, was the match that set fire 
 to the magazine. On Sunday, May 10, 1857, the 
 storm broke at Meerut, where the native troops cut 
 down the English officers and all the Europeans 
 they could find, and rushed off to the nearby town 
 of Delhi, to put themselves under the authority of 
 the old man who still claimed the shadowy title of 
 Emperor of the Mogul Empire of India. The same 
 terrible scenes, including also, in many cases, mas- 
 sacres of English women and children, were enacted 
 in many other places. The native armies of Madras 
 and Bombay remained true to the English, and the 
 Sikh population of the Punjab, recently conquered, 
 poured out en masse to aid the English. 
 
 Cawnpore, Lucknow and Delhi were the chief 
 centres of interest. At the first named, the Eng- 
 lish portion of the garrison after a desperate resist- 
 ance of nineteen days under a tropical June sky, 
 surrendered and were promised a safe conduct as 
 far as Allahabad, down the Ganges. They had no 
 sooner embarked than fire was opened on them and 
 of 450, only four escaped (June 27, 1857). 125 
 women and children who were left behind were 
 massacred a few weeks later (July 15). At Lucknow, 
 Sir Henry Lawrence had foreseen the storm and 
 chosen his defences. The garrison held out under 
 terrible hardships and against heavy odds from July 
 2d to September 25, when relieved by Havelock 
 
AROUND THE WORLD 211 
 
 and Outram. The combined force was besieged till 
 November 16th, when finally relieved by Sir Colin 
 Campbell (Lord Clyde). The garrison then retired 
 to places where they were more urgently needed. 
 Delhi was besieged by a force of 8000 Englishmen 
 against 30,000 Sepoys, beginning on June 8th. In 
 August, General Nicholson arrived with reinforce- 
 ments from the Punjab, and after a desperate assault 
 of six days, Delhi fell on September 20th. After 
 this, the war decreased in interest, though it lasted 
 in places for nearly two years longer. The war in 
 Oudh was carried on by Sir Colin Campbell aided 
 by Sir Jang Bahadur of Nepal at the head of the 
 gallant little Gurkhas. Central India was reduced 
 by Sir Hugh Rose (afterward Lord Strathnairn) and 
 here some of the most tragic and romantic scenes 
 were enacted. 
 
 Here it was that the Princess of Jhansi died in 
 battle at the head of her troops in June, 1858, and 
 here it was that Sir Hugh put again in practice 
 the old Mogul punishment of blowing insurgents 
 from the mouths of cannon. Much hostile criticism 
 has been directed against the English for these 
 things; yet there is little doubt that such determined 
 acts, such a utilization of native fears and super- 
 stitions as was contained in these executions, served 
 to bring the war to a close, to save much bloodshed 
 and to give England a firmer grasp on her Indian 
 
212 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 possessions. That she should ever give them up is 
 not to be thought of, and that she may never do so 
 is the devout wish of every one who realizes what 
 blessings of peace, order and justice have resulted to 
 those teeming millions from her rule. The end of 
 the mutiny also marked the end of the East India 
 Company, all of whose powers were transferred to 
 the crown in 1858, after an existence of 258 years. 
 Since the mutiny no internecine troubles of any 
 consequence have occurred. Reforms have gone 
 steadily forward and the conquerors have shown 
 more than once their ability to cope with famine 
 and to some extent with pestilence. During the 
 viceroyalty of Lord Northbrook (1872-76) a famine 
 which threatened Lower Bengal in 1874 was suc- 
 cessfully averted. In 1878 the government despite 
 tremendous efforts was not quite so successful. 
 A general drought over most of the Empire 
 caused crop failures, and over five millions perished. 
 Much of this result is due to the peculiar habits of 
 the people themselves. A large proportion of them 
 will not eat flesh food. As they will not even slay 
 animals, many forms of animal life are so plentiful 
 that enormous quantities of food fit for human 
 beings are destroyed in consequence. The natives 
 are also so intensely conservative that they cannot 
 be induced to leave over populated districts for 
 localities where land can be had for the asking. 
 
AROUND THE WORJLD 213 
 
 But with all these drawbacks, the population of 
 India is increasing with strides so enormous that 
 this, in turn, is becoming a great social question. 
 
 In 1878 the affairs of Afghanistan forced them- 
 selves to the attention of the English government. 
 Shere Ali, the Ameer, was found to be favoring the 
 Russians, whilst declining to receive an English en- 
 voy. This lead to war. Three British armies en- 
 tered the three great Himalayan passes and Shere 
 Ali fled. His son, Yakub Khan, made a treaty, 
 advancing the British boundaries and admitting an 
 English envoy. Within a few months, this officer, 
 Major Louis Cavagnari, was murdered and a second 
 war promptly followed. Kabul and Kandahar were 
 occupied and Yakub Khan was deported to India. 
 A force sent into Afghanistan by Ayoub Khan was 
 also brilliantly repulsed by Sir Frederick Roberts, 
 September 1, 1880. Abdurrahman Khan was sub- 
 sequently recognized as Ameer and is now on the 
 throne. The British forces retired in March, 1881. 
 
 The main features of the present condition of 
 British India are its industrial and economic 
 elements. The constant friction between the Hindoo 
 and Mohammedan inhabitants is indeed a subject of 
 more than passing significance, but though a deep- 
 seated difficulty, it is manifestly under effective 
 control. The economic disturbance caused by the 
 depreciation of silver and the recent closing of the 
 
214 
 
 FROM INDEPENDENCE HALL 
 
 Indian mints to the further coinage of that metal, 
 and the agitation for its remonitzation constitute 
 the leading factors in the existing status of East 
 Indian affairs. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
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LIBRARY OF 
 
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