OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE . MARYLAND COMMISSIONERS PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION MARYLAND and ITS NATURAL RESOURCES PREPARED BY THE MARYLAND GEOLOGICAL SURVEY WM. BULLOCK CLARK. STATE QEOLOQIST BALTIMORE leoi LIBrtAKY OF CONGRESS, HECEIVCO JUL26I901 DIVISION OF D8CUMENTS. 'A 1 TYdin XH K AOmaM A- V^ / . ' I OFFICIAL PUBLICATION . . OF THE MARYLAND COMMISSIONERS PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION MARyiiNI) AND ITS NATORAL RESOURCES PREPARED BY THE MARYLAND GEOLOGICAL SURVEY WM. BULLOCK CLARK, State Geologist BALTIMORE 1901 MARYLAND COMMISSIONERS TO THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION, BUFFALO, N. Y. Edward L. Bartlett, Francis K. Carey, Franklin P. Cator, Reuben Foster, John S. Gibbs, John Gill, Frank N. Hoen, Lloyd L. Jackson, Ferdinand C. Latrobe, Robert Ober, Samuel Rosenthal, Jr., Herman Stump, Oswa-ld Tilghman, NoRVAL E. Foard. Chairman : Ferdinand C. Latrobe. Treasurer : Frank N. Hoen. Vice Chairman : Lloyd L. Jackson, Secretary : Clarence H. Forrest. INTRODUCTION. The State of Marvhvml possesses more than ordinary interest on account of its situation, ilistrihution of land and water, and surface configuration. It is the most northern of the Soutliern States, and is situated between the parallels 37° 53^ and 39° 44^ north latitude and the meridians 75° 4^ and 79° 30^ west longitude, the exact position of the western boun(Uiry being still undetermined. The boundaries of Maryland are based upon both arbitrary locations and geographic features. According to the early grants they were clearly defined, but different interpretations of various restrictions, such as " the land hitherto unsettled," and the situation of local points like " the tii-st fountain of the Potomac," have led to disputes, some of which are still open. The northern, as well as parts of the eastern, southern and western limits, are conventional lines, of which tlie l)est known is tiic " JMason and Dixon Line." The northern boundary, known as the Mason and Dixon Line, which became famous later as the boundary between the free and slave-holding States of the North and South, was, according to an agreement made in 1732, to run due west from Cape Henlopen (fifteen miles south of the point now known by that name) to the middle of the peninsula of the Eastern Shore, thence northward tangent to a circle of twelve miles radius— whose center was at New- castle, Delaware — and then due north from the tangent point until it reached a parallel of latitude fifteen miles south of the southernmost part of Philadelphia. From this point the line was to run due west. Surveyors had already determined the position of the "center of the peninsula," the north and south line, and the "tangent point," when Charles Mason and Jeremiah Dixon, noted English astron- omers and mathematicians, arrived in Philadelphia in 1763. From their arrival until December, 1767, Mason and Dixon were busy locat- ing the "southernmost part of Philadelphia" and the northern bound- ary of the State, which they -surveyed and marked as farasDunkard Creek, West Virginia, where they were stopped by the Indians Along the greater portion of this line each mile was marked by a stone monument, which had the letter "P" engraved on the northern side, and the letter "jM" on the southern side, while at each fifth mile was a similar stone, known as the "crown-stone," with the coat of arms of the Penns cut on the northern face and with that of Lord Baltimore on the southern. These stones were brought from England. Some of the original monuments remain in good condition, but many have become dilapidated or been removed. The line is now being relocated by a Commission composed of representatives of the States of Maryland and Pennsylvania and of the United States Government. The southern boundary, long in dispute, was permanently settled in 1877, as far as the Maryland-Virginia portion is concerned, by a board of commissioners appointed by the States of Maryland and Virginia. According to their agreement the boundary line follows the low-water line on the right bank of the Potomac Kiver to Smith's Point at its mouth, thence northeasterly across Chesapeake Bay to the southern end of Smith's Island, and thence to the middle of Tangier Sound. Here the boundary runs south 10"' 30' west, until it intersects a straight line connecting Smith's Point and Watkins' Point. From this intersection the line runs to Watkins' Point, and thence eastward through the center of Pocomoke Sound and Pocomoke River until it reaches the westward pro- longation of the old Scarborough and Calvert line surveyed in 1688. which it follows to the Atlantic Ocean. There is still some controversy as to the exact location of some of the boundary marks. The States of Maryland and West \'irginia have not yet determined the western terminus of this line. CROWN-STONE. The western boundary of the State has not been flually settled. According tO' the early grants, this line should run due north from the head of the Potomac River. The North Branch was early regarded as the head of the river, but later surveys show that the South Branch is longer than the North Branch. The "Fairfax Stone" supposed to be placed at the westernmost source of the North Branch has been recently shown not to be at the head of that stream. Its real source is about one mile farther west, and this point has been recently marked by the State of Maryland with a monument known as the "Potomac Stone." The questions at issue are now before the Supreme Court of the United States. The extreme width of the State from east to west is 240 miles, and the extreme length from north to south 125 miles, the latter, however, narrow- ing toward the west where it becomes less than three miles at Hancock. Beyond this point it again broadens. The total area within the limits of the State is estimated at 12,210 square miles, of which 9,860 square miles are land. The remaining 2,350 square miles are water, distributed as follows: SWALLOW FALLS, YOUGHIOGHENY RIVER. Chesapeake Bay, 1,203 ; Chincoteague Bay, 93 ; smaller estuaries and streams, 1,054 square miles. The State of Maryland, lying midway between the North and South, and stretching as it does from the Atlantic Ocean to the crest of the AUeghanies, with the great estuary of the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries extending far into the land in all directions, possesses many advantages over neighbor- ing commonwealths. There is probably no State of equal size in the Union that has such a variety of natural resources in its agricultural and mineral output, and in its sea and bay products of every description, while its central location and numerous natural highways of commerce and trade render this native wealth of the greatest importance to the material prosperity of the people. TOPOGRAPHIC FEATURES. The State of Maryland in its pliysi(iy broad, level stretches of slifiht t'levation, deeply indented with tidal estuaries and bays that admit to navi- gation, as at P>altimore and Washington, vessels of the largest tonnage, while i?nialler craft can load at almost everv commercial center in the district. The ELK NECK, AT HEAD OF CHESAPEAKE BAY. Piedmont Plateau, which borders the Coastal Plain on the west and ■extends thence to the foot of the .\pj)alachian Mountains, is a broken, hilly country of undulating surface, divided by Parr's Kidge into two (juite dis- tinct districts. The Appalachian Region is an ari?a of high lauds, character- ized by parallel, even-topped ranges, the continuity of which is frequently interrupted. Between the ridges are numerous valleys drained by rapidly flowing streams. The vaj-iety of surface configuration is so pronounced that every type of land is artbrded from the low-lying plain bordering the tidal estuary to the high mountain slope reaching more than 3,000 feet in altitude. These varied jihysical features have influenced to a large degree the character of the people and their pursuits, which are clearly recognized as one jnisses from the eastern to the western counties of the State. THE CLIMATE. The climate of Maryland is as varied as its surface configuration, and is to a considerable extent dependent upon the latter. These climatic differ- ences are also due to the nearness of large bodies of water, such as the Atlantic Ocean and the Chesapeake Bay. The climate of most of the State has the healthfulness common to the eastern part of the United States, and in character is midway between that of Maine and that of Florida. In the eastern and southern parts of the State the winters are mild and the sum- mers hot, while in the western and more elevated portions the winters are quite cold and the summers delightfully cool. The so-called "climatic changes" depend upon differences in temperature, precipitation, winds, humidity and barometric pressure. The average temperature for the year varies materially in the several sections of the State, the temperature of the northern and western divisions, which ranges from an average of 27° in winter to 70° in summer, is several degrees lower than that of the southern and eastern divisions, where the temperature for winter is on the average about 40° and for summer 77°. In general the average temperature of Southern Maryland is 2° higher than that of Baltimore, while the temperature of the country to the north and west of the city decreases as the elevation of the land becomes greater. In the western part of the State the valleys are slightly warmer than the mountains, but are more liable to early frosts. The precipitation of moisture in Maryland occurs in the form of rain, snow and hail, usually the first, especially in the southern and eastern parts of the State. There are no distinctly wet and dry seasons, as in tropical countries, but careful observations show that there is more rain in the spring and late summer than in the autumn and winter. There are also special areas where there is considerable rainfall, and others in which the precipitation is slight. The records show that the areas of greatest rainfall are on the east- ern slope of the Catoctin Mountain in the Frederick Valley, and along the shores of the Chesapeake Bay between Cambridge and Annapohs ; while the areas of least precipitation are between Denton and Westminster and in the mountainous counties. The annual precipitation in the State varies, accord- ing to localities, from 25 to 48 inches. The winds in Maryland generally blow from the west, but during tlje summer they come more from the south, and in the winter more from the northwest and west, especialh^ in the eastern and central portions of the State. In the mountainous regions of Western Maryland the winds are more commonly from the northwest and west throughout the year. THE FLORA AND FAUNA. The native plants of Maryland are not unlike those of Virginia and Pennsylvania, and the range within the State is wider than that between adjacent areas in neighboring states. The most prominent trees are oak (12 species), hickory (4), pine (4), poplar, maple (3), locust, chestnut, cypress, red cedar, beech and wild cherry. Among the wild fruit trees are the per- simmon, the service berry and Chickasaw plum. The various sorts of grape- vine, the Virginia creeper, greenbrier, and morning glory are common chmbers in the State, while the wild strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, bluebeiTv, huckleberry, dewberry and cranberry, all very abundant, repre- sent the native small fruits. Besides these larger or fruit-bearing plants there are countless others which carpet the ground in rapid succession from early spring until late autumn. The animal life in Maryland is abundant, but does not show a great variety of the larger forms. Deer, black bears, and wild- oats are sometimes taken in the wilder portions of the State. Usually, however, the mammals are represent- ed only by such animals as the ground-hogs, rabbits, skunks, weasels, minks, ot- ters, opossums ami squirrels. Snakes are abundant, but most of the species are harmless. The copperhead and the rattlesnake are the most common venomous snakes, the former being the more vicious and dangerous. The waters of the Chesapeake Bay abound in shad, herring, menhaden, mackerel, crabs, terrapin and oysters. Among the ducks which frequent Chesapeake Bay are the canvas-backs, red-heads, bald-pates, mallards, black-heads and teal ; while the land birds include the reed-bird, partridge, ruffed grouse (or •' pheasant "), woodcock, snipe, i)lover and Carolina rail. The smaller song and ornamental birds are very numerous and include many tiirushes, wrens, swallows, sparrows, nighthawks, wild doves, and the " Baltimore oriole." Woodpeckers, owls, hawks, turkey-bu/.zards and crows are also numerous. ON WILLS MOUNTAIN. HISTORICAL SKETCH. Maryland was settled by a party of Englishmen under Leonard Calvert, who left the mother country in the " Ark and Dove '' in 1633, and linally landed near the mouth of the Potomac, on the shores of St. Mary's River, in 1634. The proprietor, Cecilius Calvert, second Baron of Baltimore, received the teri-itory from Charles I, under a charter which allowed many liberties, including freedom from taxation by the King. In 1649 the colonists estab- lished these privileges by the "Toleration Act,'" which forbade discrin)ina- tion on account of religious opinions. The Puritans from Virginia sought refuge in Maryland, and in 1652 even captured the State government for a period . About this time the Duke of York (afterward .lames II), through ignor- ance of tlie country, granted William Penn some of the land which had alreadv been iriven to Lord Baltimore. This mistake led to a long border dispute which only ended with the location of the Mason and Dixon Line (1763-1768). In 1694 the capital of the State was moved from St. Mary's City to Annapolis. During the Revolutionary War no important military operations took place in Maryland, although the "Maryland Line" fought with valor in many engagements, especially those of Long Island, Camden, Cowpens, Guilford and Eutaw Springs. On December 22, 1783, Washington resigned his commission as commander-in-chief of the army in the Senate chamber at Annapolis, where the Continental Congress was then in session. During the War of 1812 several Maryland towns were pillaged by the British, but Baltimore was saved from plunder by the repulse of the enemy at North Point and Fort McHenry. It was during the bombardment of the latter place that Francis Scott Key wrote " The Star-spangled Banner." Among the battles of the Civil War three were fought on Maryland soil, South Mountain (September 14, 1862), Sharpsburg, or Antietam, (September 16-17, 1862), and Monocacy (1864). There were also small conflicts at many points, especially along the Potomac. CALVERT CLIFFS. In the history of the State are many incidents which have since become of national or international importance. The first wheat was shipped to Europe from Baltimore in 1771 ; the first regular steam packet that crossed the Atlantic direct from the United States sailed from Baltimore in May, 1838 ; while the Morse telegraph line transmitted its first message (" What hath God wrought") from Baltimore to Washington, April 9, 1844. Balti- more w^as the first city in America to have a w^ater company (1792), street gaslights, a railroad (1828), and an electric street railroad (1881). The city contains the first American monument to Columbus, the first State monu- ment to George Washington, the oldest American lodge of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows, and the oldest College of Dental Surgery. The earhest settlers in Maryland were Englishmen, whose descendants are now scattered all over the State, and comprise the leading element in the population. Many of the early settlers in the country adjacent to Pennsylvania were of German extraction, and their descendants are to-day numerous and influential. Next in importance are the negroes who com- prise one-fifth of the population, and who are relatively more prominent in Charles-, Calvert an.l St. Mary's counties, wiiere they cuiupose fully une-half of the population : and least important in the western counties alon^ the Mason and Dixon Line, where there is only one nej^ro on the averaeen a irreat increase in the Polish, Hungarian and iJohemian inhabitants, who liave settled in the mining districts of Allegany and (iarrett counties and in Baltimore City. Maryland has always been a religious center. As early as l(>'J!i services were regularly conducted on Kent Island by an ordained minister of the Church of England. The first Presbyterian Church in America was estab- lished at Snow Hill about 1700, and in 17(H) Robert Straw l)ridgc establisherl the first Methodist congregation in America in Frederick countv. Manv of STATE HOUSE, ANNAPOLIS. the most prominent of the early settlers were Roman Catholics, and the See of Baltimore has held the first position in America since the decree of 185S. There are 59 denominations or sects represented in Mai-yland, anil although many of them are scattered throughout the State they show local variations in strength, which are closely related to the history, beliefs and nationalities of the early settlers. STATE GOVERNMENT. The present government of the State of Maryland is ba.sed on a Consti- tution formulated and ratified in lSt>7. Earlier constitutions were adopted in 177(i, 1851, 1864, and the Constitution of 177H was very much changed in 1837. According to the ))resent Constitution the State is divided into 2::5 counties antl Baltimore City, which in turn are sulxlivideil into districts for school and election purposes. There are no units such as townships, but the local aflairs of the cities, towns and villages are carried on by officers in accordance with charters and special acts. Among the State officials under the Constitution of 1867 are the Gov- ernor, elected for four years, and the Secretary of State, who is appointed by the Governor. The Senate and House of Delegates, which together form the General Assembly or Legislature, consist of 26 Senators elected for four years, one from each of the 23 counties and the three districts of Baltimore City, and 91 delegates, elected for two years, apportioned according to the population. Each of the legislative districts of Baltimore is entitled to six delegates, the number allowed the largest county. The Assembly meets every other year, on the first Wednesday in January, and may remain in session 90 days. At the call of the Governor a special session may be held,, which is limited by-law to 30 days. The judicial powers of the State are vested in a Court of Appeals (com- posed of eight judges) ; Circuit Courts with eight chief judges (who are the judges of the Court of Appeals), and eighteen associate judges ; and Orphans" Courts with seventy-two judges. The Appeal and Circuit court judges are elected for fifteen years, the judges of the Orphans' Court for four, the regis- trars of wills for six, and the sheriffs for two. The Attorney-General of the State and the State's Attorneys are elected for four years. Justices of the' peace, constables, coroners and notaries, are appointed by the Governor. Among the other prominent State officials are the Comptroller, who is the financier for the State, and who is elected by the people for two years ;. and the Treasurer, who is the banker, and who is elected by the General Assembly for a two year term. The more important State organizations are the Board of Public Works, Militia, Fishery Force, Land Office, State Agricultural Experiment Station,. Geological and Economic Survey, State Weather Service, State Horticultural Bureau, Bureau of Industrial Statistics, Board of Education, Board of Health, Boards of Medical Examiners, Examiners of Dental Sui'gery, State Lunacy Commission, Live Stock Sanitary Board, and the Fish Commission. ^ EDUCATION. The e.(|^cational history of the State dates back to 1696, when Governor- Francis Nicholson established the first public school at Annapolis, now St. John's College. The State schools were brought under the general supervision of the State Bo.ird of Education in 1864, and are now supported by State and local taxation. A State Superintendent of Schools was provided for by the General Assembly of 1900. The State schools also include a Normal School for teachers, schools for the deaf and dumb, and for the blind. Baltimore is the educational center of the State. In this city are located the Johns- Hopkins University and Medical School, Maryland Universitj^, Peabody Institute, The Woman's CoUege-of Baltimore, Maryland Institute, St. Mary's Seminary, College of Physicians and Surgeons, Baltimore Medical College,. Maryland College of Pharmacy, Baltimore College of Dental Surgery, and many others. Within the limits of the State are also tl.e Maryland Agricultui-al College at College Park, St. John's College at Annapolis, Washington College at Chestertown, Mt. St. Mary's College at Emmitsburg, Western ^Maryland College at Westminster, and many smaller institutions. 8 THE COUNTIES AND CITIES OF MARYLAND. Maryland is divideil into 23 counties, ol" which (iarrett, Aile.iiany and Washington form the Appahichian Region known as Western Marylaml ; Frederick, Carroll, Baltimore, Harford. Cecil, Howard and Montgomery the Piedmont Plateau, which is also referred to under the name of Nortiiern- Central Maryland ; Anne Arundel, Prince George's, Calvert, Charles ami St. Mary's, commonly called Southern Marjdand, and Kent, (^ueen Anne's, Talbot, Caroline, Dorchester, Wicomico, Somerset and Worcester, known as Eastei'n Maryland, the two latter districts comprising the Coastal Plain. Of these 23 counties there ai'e but seven that do not border on navigable waters. MARYLAND DENSITY OF POPULATION :i^ m^. \HC4// 23 "'•.;%'":t X ■ ,& — g-^4- - — ^ POPULATION OF MARYLAND ACCORDING TO THE UNITED STATES CENSUS. Counties. lliOd. isiio. 1880. <, ""^^tes County Town. AUejiany 53.(504 41,571 38,012 442 Cuml.erlan.i. Anne Arundel 40,018 . 34,094 28,226 425 Annapolis. Baltimore 90,7.55 72.909 83.33C 65C Towson. Baltimore City 508.957 434,439 382,313 30 Calvert 10,223 9,860 10,538 222 Prince Fre.lerick. Caroline 10,248 13,903 13.766 320 Denton. Carroll 33.860 32,376 30.992 437 Westminster. Cecil 24,662 25,851 27.10S 360 Elkton. Charles 18,316 15,191 18,548 451 La Plata. Dorchester 27,962 24,843 23.110 608 Cambridge. Frederick 51,920 49.512 50.482 662 Frederick. Garrett 17.701 14,213 12,175 660 Oakland. Harford 28,209 28,993 28.042 388 Belair. Howard 16,715 10,209 16,140 240 Ellicott Citv. Kent 18,786 17,471 17.605 281 Chestertown. Monteomerv 30,451 27,185 24,759 490 Kockville. Prince George's 29,898 26.080 26,451 482 Upper Marlboro. Queen Anue's 18.364 18,461 19.2.57 376 Centreville. St. Mary's. 18.130 1,5,819 10,934 372 Leonardtown. Somer.set 25 92;j 24,155 21,608 302 Princess Anne. Talbot 20'.342 19,730 19,005 280 Easton. Washington 4.5,133 .39,782 38,561 458 Hafrerstown. Wicomico 22.852 19,930 18,016 365 Salisbury. Worcester 20.865 19,747 19,539 487 Snow Hill. The State 1,190.050 1.042,390 934.943 9,860 .Annapolis. The above figures, which are uow being revised, show an increase in the popula- tion of the State since 1890 of 147,660, or 14.1 per cent. The increase from 1880 to 1890 was 107,447, or 11.4 per cent. 9 BALTIMORE HARBOR. URBAN POPULATION OF MARYLAND. Population of Ninety-eight Incorporated Cities, Towns and Villages of Maryland according to the United States Census. 1890 448 7,604 434,439 1,416 974 275 .503 295 766 273 4,192 485 1,309 228 1,155 2,632 596 Towns, etc. 1900. Aberdeen..- 800 Annapolis 8,402 Baltimore 508,957 Barnesville 125 Belair 961 Berlin 1,256 Blshopville 243 Bladensburg 463 Bloomington 395 Boonsboro 700 Bowie .. . 443 Bridgetown 50 Brookeville 158 Brunswick 2,471 Burkittsville 2->Q Cambridge! 5,747 Cecilton 447 Centreville 1,2.31 Charlestown 344 Chesapeake 1,172 Chestertown 3,008 Church Hill 368 Clear Spring 474 Crisfield 3,165 Crumpton 207 Cumberland 17,128 Damascus 148 Darlington 360 Deer Park 293 Delmar 659 Denton 900 East New Market 1,267 Easton 3,074 Elkton 2,542 Ellicott City 1,331 Emmitsburg 849 Pederalsburg 539 Frederick 9,296 Frostburg 5,274 Punkstown .559 Gaitliersburg 547 Garrett Park 175 Girdletree 336 Grantsville 175 Greensboro 641 902 Hagerstown... 13,591 10,118 Hampstead 480 531 Hancock 824 815 Havre de Grace 3,423 3,244 1.565 317 13,729 339 179 641 2','939 2,318 1,488 844 .543 8,193 3.804 Towns, etc. Ilillsboro Hurlock Hyattstown HyattsviUe Keedysville Kensington Laurel Laytonsville Leonardtown Loch Lynn Heights.... Lonaooning Manchester Middletown Millington Mountain Lake Park. Mount Airy New Windsor Northeast Oakland Ocean City Oxford Perryville Piscataway Pocomoke Poolesville Port Deposit Preston Princess Anne Queenstown Ridgely Rising Sun Rockville St. Michael's Salisbury Sharpsburg Sharptown Smithburg Snow Hill Sudlersville Takoma Taiieytown Thurmont Trappe ITuion Bridere Upper Marlboro Walkersville Western port Westminster Williamsport 1900. 196 280 81 1,222 426 477 2,079 148 454 215 3,181 609 665 406 360 333 430 969 1,170 365 1,243 770 95 2,124 236 1..575 192 854 374 713 383 1,110 1,043 4 277 l',030 529 462 1,596 321 756 665 868 379 fi63 449 359 1,998 3,199 1,473 1890. 174 1,.509 430 1,984 "521 273 667 485 414 1,249 1,046 85 1,135 344 1,866 1,908 365 "sis 384 1,568 1,339 2,905 1,163 437 487 1,483 125 164 566 251 743 439 255 1.526 3,903 1.377 10 The State uf Maryland has only three eities of more than 10,000 inhabi- tants, Baltimore being the only great city witli a population of ;")08,yo7. There are only 14 cities and towns which exceed 2500 in population, which shows that the occupation of tiie people of the counties is chiefly confined to agriculture, although the fishing and oyster industries of the Chesapeake Bay Region and the mining and quarrying operations of the western and central counties likewise support a large scattered population. Tiiose towns and cities with a population of more than 2500 are : Baltimore, witli a population of 508, it5", is the most important city of the State. It is situated at the head of navigation, on the Patapsco River, about 13 miles from the Chesapeake Bay, and 170 miles from the Atlantic Ocean at Cape Henry. Baltimore offers many advantages as a commercial center in its natural location, in its peculiar economic conditions, and in the liberal policy of its municipal administration. Its geographic situation is most advantageous for land and water transportation, direct lines of communication by rail connecting it with the great agricultural and mining regions of the south and west, while numerous lines of steamboats have developed a most important coastwise and foreign trade. MT. VERNON PLACE. BALTIMORE. Baltimore, named after the then proprietor of Maryland, Lord Baltimore, was laid out in 1730 on a tract of 60 acres, which cost only $600. Its rapid growth in population and commercial importance has been due to the many favorable conditions before cited. The principal industries are ready-made clothing, oyster canning and fruit packing, shirts and overalls, fertilizers, straw goods, cotton duck, iron and copper, tobacco, drugs and medicines, clay products, ship-building, marble and stone work, lumber and furniture making. Baltimore is renowned for its beautiful parks, places and public buildings, and on account of the many monuments in its squares has been termed "The Monumental City." Druid Hill Park and Mount Vernon Place are famed for their beauty. Washington Monument, erected in the center of the latter, was the first of the public monuments to be erected to the Father of his Country. Baltimore is also the seat of the famous Johns Hopkins University and many other smaller educational institutions. Cumberland, named after old Fort Cumberland of colonial days, is the second city in importance, with a population of 17,128. It is situated in Allegany county, on the upper waters of the Potomac River and on the direct line of communication with the west. The situation of this city is exceptionally favorable for manufacturing pur- 11 poses on account of its location in the midst of rich resources in steam coals and lumber. In the immediate neighborhood are materials suitable for the manufacture of glass, hydraulic cement and high grade building and fire briclts. Hagerstown, named for Jonathan Hager, its founder, is the third city in size, with a population of 13,591. It is located in the center of the fertile Cumberland Valley and is one of the most enterprising towns of the State. It is the distributing point for a rich farming counti'y and is also a prominent industrial center. The most noted of its manufactures are bicycles, silli, knit goods, shirts, brick, furniture and carriage stock. Several railroads center at Hagerstown so that excellent transportation facilities are provided. Frederick, named for the last proprietor, Frederick, Sixth Lord Baltimore, is the fourth city in size, with a population 9,396. It is like Hagerstown, the center of an important agricultural region and likewise contains numerous industries. It is an attractive city with many quaint architectural features that delight the stranger. Frederick is reached by both the Pennsylvania and Baltimore & Ohio railroads. Annapolis, the capitol of the State, is the fifth city in size, with a population of 8,402. It is the oldest city in the State and was settled in 1649 under the name of Provi- dence, afterward changed to Anne Arundeltown. In 1708 it received its name of Annapolis under a charter granted by the English queen. It is the seat of the U. S. Naval Academy, established in 1845, and of St. John's College, which was chartered in JOHNS HOPKINS HOSPITAL, BALTIMORE. 1784. The State House is one of the most interesting buildings of the colonial period. Many private houses of the same period are still standing, and are among the most beautiful structures of their kind in existence. The chief industry is oyster packing, the annual shipment aggregating upwards of 250,000 gallons. The city is provided with both rail and steamboat communication. Cambridge, the sixth city in the State, with a population of 5,747, is the largest town on the Eastern Shore. It is in the midst of a fertile farming country and is an important shipping point for vegetables and fruits. It has a fine harbor and its shipping facilities, both by land and water, are excellent. The chief industries are oyster pack- ing and canning. Frostburg, the seventh city of the State, with a population of 5,274, is situated in western Allegany county at an elevation of 2000 feet above tide. It is in the center of the coal-mining district of the George's Creek Valley and its interests largely center in that industry. Salisbury, the eighth city in population, with 4,277 inhabitants, is one of the most progressive towns of the Eastern Shore. It is an important business center and contains a variety of industries, the most important business interests centering in the lumber industry. It has both rail and water communication. 12 Havre de Grace, at the mouth of the .Susqueliaiuiii, is au important town of 3,423 inhabitants. Its name is said to be due to a remark of (ieneral Lafayette, wlien on a visit to the region, that the location resembled that of the famous French port. Havre de Grace is situated on the line both of the Baltimore & Ohio and Pennsylvania rail- road systems and offers many advantasres to manufacturini; enterprises. It already has a number of industrial establishments. Its fishing interests are very important. Westminster, with a population of 3,109, is the center of an important agricultural region. It is situated on high land near the headwaters of tlie Patapsco River, in a country of more than usual beauty. It contains the Western Maryland College. Crisfield is situated on the lower Eastern Shore, and has a population of 3,10.">. Crisfield has had a very rapid growth on aci-ount of its important oyster, crab and fisli interests. These products are shipped from Crisfield in large quantities. It is provided with both railway and steamboat communication. Easton has a population of 3,074. It has a number of industrial establisliments, including flour mills, fertilizer works, carriage factories, etc. Easton is one of the most important towns of the Eastern Sliore, and when the State was partially divided in its political functions was regarded as the capitol of the Eastern Shore. It is also tlie residence of the bishop of the Protestant Episcopal Diocese of Easton. Chestertown is one of the oldest towns of the Eastern Shore, its settlement dating from 1706. It has a population of 3.008. Among its important manufacturing interests CUMBERLAND AND THE NARROWS. are a large straw-board mill, a carriage factory and a canning factory. It is provided with both rail and water communication. Washington College is situated within its limits. Elkton, with a population of 2,542, is one of the most important towns of tlie northern Eastern Shore. It is situated on the Pennsylvania Railroad about half way between Baltimore and Philadelphia. It derives a large trade from the fertile agricul- tural region that surrounds it. It has a variety of manufacturing industries. There are many other flourishing towns of less population in the State, some of which are rapidly developing, and are destined in the course of a few years to become important commercial centers. Their names and population may be found in the table on page 10. NATURAL RESOURCES. The leading natural resources of Maryland may be grouped under three heads, first the mineral resources, including tlie coal, Imilding-stone, clay, etc. ; second, the agricultural soils, embracing the many types of soil adapted to a great variety of crops ; and tliird, the water products, taken 13 from the sea, bays and rivers of the State, and affording a basis for the fishing and oyster industries. To these should also be added the forestry and water-power resources, which, although important, are less fully devel- oped at the present time. MINERAL RESOURCES. The mineral resources of Maryland are of much value and have yielded a great variety of products, some of which afford the basis for important commercial enterprises. The old crystalline rocks, confined for the most part to the Piedmont region between the Monocacy and the Chesapeake, have afl'orded the most varied mineral products. Here occur the most important building-stones ; the slates of Delta and Ijamsville ; the granite of Port Deposit, Woodstock, Ellicott City and Guilford ; the gneiss of Baltimore ; the marble of Cockeysville and Texas ; the crystalline limestone of Westminster ; the sandstone of Deer Creek ; and the serpentine of Broad Creek and Bare Hills. In these oldest rocks occur also the ores of gold, cop- per, chrome, lead and zinc. Iron ore is also found here while all the flint, feldspar, kaolin and mica in the State must be sought for in these rocks. TRANSPORTATION BY RAIL. These older rocks also appear in the Blue Ridge district where they form the Middletown Valley and have yielded traces of copper, antimony and iron. The rocks of later age, forming what geologists call the Paleozoic system, make up the western section of the State. They furnish much sandstone and limestone suitable for building purposes, the latter also being burned exten- sively for agricultural purposes. There are also important deposits of cement rock that have afforded the basis for an extensive industry. At the top of this Paleozoic system of rock formations are situated the coal beds of the famous Cumberland-George's Creek coal basin, including the wonderful Big Vein that is universally thought to furnish the highest quality of steam and smithing coal. These same rocks also contain important deposits of fire-clay and iron ore, the former affording the basis for a very important fire brick industry. The ])ost-Paleozoic formations of the State, although not as rich in min- eral products, are not devoid of deposits of economic value. The interesting variegated , limestone breccia, known as Potomac marble, and the brown sandstone of Frederick and Montgomery counties belong to the oldest of 14 these post-Paleozoic strata. The series of still unconsolidated heed except 16 For local uses. Their aeii generally recog- nized, althougii they have been worked to some extent sincr the early () to 40 feet in thickness. CARBONATE IRON ORE DEPOSITS. It is chiefly found in C^alvert and Charles counties, where it has been more or less extensively worked at the mouth of Lyon's Creek on the I'atuxent, and at Pope's Creek on the Potomac River. This remarkable deposit is composed of the microscopic shells of diatoms, and has found various uses in the trail es. Iron Ores. The iron industry in Maryland was developed early in colonial days, and continued until a recent period to be one of the most important factors in the prosperity ot the State. Numerous references to the iron ores and their manufacture into iron occur in the records of colonial times. The Principio Company, one of the largest of early commercial enterprises, controlled many furnaces and forges in Maryland and in Virginia, and both during the Revolutionary War and the War of 1S12 furnished guns and projectiles to the army. These furnaces, as well as those in the western IT counties of the State, have long since been abandoned, with the exception of the Catoctin furnace in Frederick county, which has been from time to time in recent yenrs in active operation. The only ores now being pro- duced in Maryland to any extent are the carbonate ores derived from the clays along the western margin of the Coastal Plain, chiefiy in Anne Arundel and Prince George's counties. The great bulk of these ores is to-day smelted in the Muirkirk furnace in Prince George's county. It is interesting to note that this carbonate ore was probably the tirst iron ore worked in Maryland, and is, even to-day, highly prized for its tensile strength. Mineral Paints. Mineral paint has been produced at several points in Maryland. Large quantities were obtained in former years from the brown iron ore deposits of Frederick county. (Jchre mines have also been operated in Carroll and Howard counties. The dejtosits of chief importance at the GRANITE QUARRY. present time, however, are found associated Avith the clays in Anne Arundel and Prince George's counties. In the latter locality the material is a fine and highh' ferruginous clay that can be easily worked, and large quantities have been annually mined. It occurs in many grades and colors. Building and Decorative Stones. The building and decorative stones of Maryland are widely distributed throughout the western and central por- tions of the State, and consist of many different varieties ^\"hich, from their diversity in color, hardness and structural peculiarities, ai'e well adapted for nearly ail architectural and decorative purposes. Among the most import- ant may be mentioned the granite, gneiss, marble, limestone, slate, sand- stone and serpentine. Among the localities in Maryland where granite has IS been most extensively worked are Port Deposit, in Cecil county ; Woodstock, in Baltimore county; and Ellicott City and Ciuilford, in Howard county. Other areas in Cecil, Howard and Montgomery counties contain some good .stone, but it is quarried only for local use. At tiie localities first mentioned the granite is extensively quarried at the jjresent time, and has alibrded material for tiie construction of some of the most important buildings in the country, including the Capitol and Congressional Library in Washington, Fortress Monroe, Forts Carroll and McHenry, the U. S. Naval Academy, and other public and private buildings, as well as bridges in Baltimore, Washington and Philadelphia. The excellent quality of the stone renders it available in many cases as a decorative stone, and monumental work has already been undertaken. The more solid varieties of the gneiss oct-urring in and near the city of Baltimore are extensively quarrieil for use as foundation stone. This rock is of a gray color, and occurs in parallel layers of light and dark stone, which MARBLE QUARRY. at times are mure or less sharply contrasted. Buildings constructed of gneiss, of which there are many in Baltimore, present an agreeable effect. Among tlie more important structures may be mentioned The Woman's College of Baltimore. The marble of Maryland is mainly conlined to tiie eastern division of the Piedmont Plateau. The white varieties occur for the most part in Baltimore <'Ounty, and the highly variegated marbles in Carroll and Freiierick counties. The white marbles of Baltimore county are found in a series of narrow belts a few miles to the north of Baltimore City. The most important of the areas is that which extends northward from Lake Roland to Cockeysville, and whii-h is traversed by the Northern Central Railway. The marble has been exten.sively quarried both at Cockeysville and Texas, the well-known Beaver Dam Marble Quarries of the former locality having been in successful oper- ation for more than 75 years. The rock is a fine saccharoidal dolomite of 19 great compactness and durability. Monoliths of large size can be obtained at the quarries. Many important structures in Baltimore, Washington and Philadelphia have been made of this marble. Stone for the construction of the Washington Monument in Baltimore was taken from this locality as early as 1814. The fine-gi'ained, compact and variegated marbles, or crystalline lime- stones, of the western portion of the Piedmont Plateau in Carroll and Fred- erick counties compare favorably in their quality, texture and beautiful veining with the well-known marbles from Vermont and Tennessee, and are deserving of much more attention than thej^ have heretofore received. In the Wakefield Valley, west of Westminster, a beautifully mottled red and white marble occurs; others of black and white, gray and white, and blue and white veining occur near New Windsor and Union Bridge, and still others of a variegated yellow, with lighter veinings, have been derived from SLATE QUARRY the same area. This marble, on account of the limited extent of the deposits, has not been regarded as of much economic importance, but the stone, when secured, is well adapted for purposes of interior decoration. Another stone which may be classed with the decorative marbles is the Triassic conglomerate, or breccia, of southern Frederick county. It is known as "Potomac Marble," or "Calico Rock," and has received note- worthy application as a decorative stone in the old Hall of Representatives at Washington, where it forms a series of beautiful columns. It occurs, well exposed, at Washington Junction, Frederick county, and extends north- ward along the base of the Catoctin Mountain. The limestone fragments of which the rock is composed are imbedded in a red ferruginous cement, and the stone, when polished, presents a very beautiful appearance. 20 The blue limestones of tlie Appalachisui ilistrict hiive been use all classes of soil in this portion of the State, but with very poor results on the lighter sandy loams. Lighter loams are found iu some portions of the uplands and are better adapted to raising tobacco. The yield is less per acre but the quality is good. Maryland tobacco is exported chiefly to Holland, France and Germany. It is a light, mild smoking-tobacco, and formerly brought a much better price than at present. Competition with new tobacco-producing states and changing market demands have lowered the price and have correspondingly decreased the profits. The tobacco lands have been allowed to run down, and those farmers who have turned their attention to other crops are gratified with the results obtained. The sandy loams cover large areas of Southern Maryland. Thei'e are loose sandy «oils which are too light in texture for producing wheat or grass, but since the extensive truck industry has been developed the lands that are near markets have greatly advanced in value. The sandy river necks soutli of Baltimore are famous truck-growing areas and produce enormous quantities of melons, pears, beans, strawberries and small fruits. Shipments are made principally bj' boat when the distance is too far for hauling by wagon. There is also a very large peach industry in this section of the State. While certain portions ot Southern Maryland have made great advance- ment along the lines of successful agriculture, there are still large areas of productive soil that are lying idle or growing up in pine forests. Lack of transportation facilities has had much to do with bringing about these con- ditions in certain sections, and the sparsely settled condition of some of the counties has also prevented the development which the fertile nature of the soils would seem to warrant. By introducing crops adapted to the character of the soil, and with adequate transportation facilities this region should he made even more productive than it was formerly. Northern=Central Maryland. The agricultural soils of this section of Maryland are mainly residual, that is, they are the pi'oducts of the slow decomposition of the underlying rocks. They are with few exceptions strong and fertile. They can be made very productive and are generally in a high state of cultivation. The soils may be discussed under the following classes : The limestone-valley lands, the red lands, the gray lands, the phyllite soils and the barren lands of the serpentine areas. The limestone-valley lands are perhaps the strongest soils found in the region. They are identical in many respects with the soils of the Hagers- town valley. These soils are heavy red and yellow loams and clays. The largest valleys of these rich soils are found in Frederick, Baltimore, Carroll and Howard counties. These soils by careful cultivation annualh^ yield fine crops of grass, wheat, corn and other cereals. Many of these valleys have long been noted for their prosperous, well-managed farms. On account of their heavy clayey nature they are famous grass lands and large numbers of cattle are fattened iu these valleys. The proximity to Baltimore and the excellent transportation facilities have also greatly stimulated the dairy interests. The red lands may be divided into two sub-classes. First may l)e described the red lands of Carroll and Frederick counties which consist of I'ed loams and clay loams. These soils occupy areas near the fertile Monocacy limestone-valley, and the differences between the soils of the two regions can be easily compared. In goovl seasons the red lands are almost as pro- 2t) ductive as tlie fertile limestone soils, but (hiring years when the eonditionp for growth are unfavorable the yields are not so high as from the heavy clayey soils of the limestone valleys. However, the red lands rank as good, strong soils, and geiierally produce excellent crops of grass, wheat and corn, oats and potatoes, the principal crops grown in this section of the State. The second class of red land soils occupies areas in Cecil, Harford and Baltimore counties. The soils are heavy red loams, grading into stiff clay loams of a reddish or yellowish color. These are likewise strong clay soils, naturally jtroductive and capalile of standing consiwamp lands. The red sandstone soils occupy large areas in the central i)ortion of Garrett county, and the yield of crops produced on these soils comi)ares favorably with the best class of soils found in the entire State. The soil is a heavy red loam that grades into red clay loams. These soils occupy rolling valley lands and produce good crops of wheat, corn, oats and buckwheat. The Cove country, as it is called in northwest Garrett county, has long been noted as a tine farming section, and there are still large areas of these line soils which can be made fully as productive and prosperous as the section just mentioned. The yellow sandstone soils comprise the greater portion of Garrett- county and the George's Creek Valley in Allegany county, and may be classed as heavy sandy loams. They produce good yields of buckwheat, wheat, oats, hay and corn. In the native forest the sugar-maple abounds, and a large income is derived from the sale of maple sugar each spring. These lands are also good pasture lands in addition to being well adapteil to apple orchards. The stony mountain soils include the shallow soils found along the crests and sides of the principal mountain ridges of this region. The soils are thin and stony, ditticult to till and not adapted to general farming purposes. They are not extensively cleared, and are covered in many places with valuable tracts of merchantable timber, especially cliestnut. The " glades " are large swampy tracts of land which occur principally in the central portion of the county. Formerly the glades were famous cattle pastures during the dry seasons, but now large tracts of glade lands have been thoroughly drained and the soils, rich in decayed organic matter, produce good crops of oats, timothy, and even corn and wheat. In conclusion it may be stated that Maryland has a great variety of soils which are adapteil to almost any crops that will grow in this section of the United States. The greater portion of the arable land of the State is under cultivation and farmed at a fair profit, but there are extensive areas, especially in Western and Southern Maryland, wliere there is room for great agricultural development. The following table shows the annual crop production of Maryland at the present time. The figures have been furnished in part by the U. S. Department of Agriculture from statistics secured in 1899, and in part by the 29 Maryland Agricultural College from data obtained in the progress of their investigations in the State : ^ , Yield Acreage. Production. Value. per Acre Acres. Bushels. Dollars. Bushels. Corn 580,076 18,563,432 $6,682,476 32.0 Wheat 759,643 10,710,966 7,283,457 14 1 Oats 72,852 1,675,596 502,679 230 Rye 25,234 3.53,276 201,367 14'o Buckwheat 7,510 97,630 54,673 130 Potatoes 22,193 1,420,352 724,380 64'o Hay 282,992 319,781 tons. 3,885,339 i;i3tons Tobacco 35,000 21,000,000 lbs. 1,470,000 600 lbs. The total amount realized on the above crops amounts to 120,804,371. It is to be regretted that figures are not at hand for the fruit and truck crops. The amount of these would swell the total value of farm products to nearly $30,000,000, i? not more. 1^^SBWi*S, TONGING FOR OYSTERS. THE WATER PRODUCTS. The Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries, occupying less than one-quarter of the entire area of Maryland, supply to the people each year products valued at more than 110,000,000. Throughout the country this magnificent body of water is renowned for its oysters, crabs, terrapin and shad, yet few even among the inhabitants along its shores realize the great wealth con- tained in its waters. The Oyster Industry. The brackish and salt waters of Chesapeake Bay have long been known as the favorite home of this highly appreciated food product, and from them young oysters have been transplanted to replenish the exhausted natural beds of New Jersey, New York, Connecticut and Ehode Island. 30 At the present time the "natural bedp" occupy large areas on either side of the main channel of the Bay and about the mouths of the numerous rivers. A single bed, along the shore of Anne Arundel county, is estimated to cover nearly 30 >iquare miles. Besides this great bed there are at least half a dozen more beds, each half its size ; while many others cover areas varying from L'OO to 10 or 12 acres. The total area occupied by these natural iteds has l)een estimated to be about 193 square miles. If, however, the advantages afforded by the Bay were utilized by a proper system of oyster-cultivation, there is scarcely a foot of the bottom of the 2,000 square miles covered by its shallow waters where oysters could not be reared. .\nd it may be safely asserteil that the annual product might reach the colossal amount of 400,000,000 bushels a j'ear. The output of to-day, though insigiiiticant when compared with what it might be, reaches the really immense proportions of 5,000,000 bushels a year witli a value of S3,o00,000. The oysters obtained, besides supplying the local