flass Ft'1 Book_ ■ M^ K?j - LORING PARK ASPECTS Joseph S. Johnson The first white settler in Loring Park BRIEF GLIMPSES Of Unfamiliar LORING PARK ASPECTS WHEREIN an Account is given of Interest- ing and Memorable Events which have hapned in this Valley, with Agreeable In- quirendoes into the lives of Certain of its Pioneers to which is Appended a Chapter of More Flippant Sort (Composed for the Lighter-Minded) having to do with the Pleasant Adventures of One Dad Hough- ton, the Whole Most Diverting to the Reader. By A. J. RUSSELL OF FOURTH STREET 15. As for man, his days are as grass j 1 6 . For the wind passeth over it, and it is gone ; . 17. But— . . . —Psalm CIII MINNEAPOLIS PRINTED at the Torch Press, Cedar Rapids, for Leonard H. Wells, Publisher, and are to be sold at Powers' Book Section, L. H. Wells, Manager, Marquette Avenue and Fifth Street, Kitty-Corner- ing from the First and Security National Bank Building. 1919. y, *f ao-i^^t TO herschell v. jones "jonesey" booklover and book collector napoleonic once old reportorial comrade now the boss yet full of faith and good works solicitous to do good and to make this a better world to those in his employ generous beyond belief but whose politics i deplore this slight effort IS WARMLY DEDICATED O I am but a symbol and a dream Moving along the minds of those who sleep — Echo of laughter heard phantastically ! And ever through the misty pageant gleam Faces I knew, and tender eyes that keep Remembrance of some old reality. -Leslie Nelson Jennings PREFATORY NOTE ONE hundred years ago, on August 24, 18 19, Fort S netting was established at the confluence of the Mississippi and Minne- sota rivers. With this anniversary in mind, and in order somewhat to relieve a too strained atten- tion upon the one subject of thought and conver- sation of long, dark days, I have for a year or more worked at odd moments of busily occupied weeks, and often during the evening and on quiet Sunday afternoons, on a brief history of the urban valley at the foot of the hills of the Lowry range that crosses the city of Minneapolis about a mile from the Mississippi river. Accuracy and historical research, while they have not been avoided, have not been primarily sought, but the attempt has been made to obtain old time flavors and aspects. The only real fiction is found in Section VI. In the other sections, the curtain of the past has, perhaps, been pulled aside at one of its corners for a moment from a darkening stage for brief glimpses of scenes in the rapidly shifting panorama of the Loring Park valley. I have hoped sometimes, and especially since the location of the Public Library building has been decided, that this slight sketch might help to 12 LORING PARK ASPECTS persuade the people of this city, through their Park Board, to acquire the necessary two remain- ing blocks between Hennepin and Lyndale Ave- nues, blocks that separate the Parade and Loring Park, and so open up forever this beautiful valley to the public use and enjoyment. It would not be necessary at once to wreck the fine buildings that now occupy these two key blocks, for in twenty-five or in fifty years, before they wear out, they will themselves pay for the entire im- provement. The city has all the time there is and fifty years in the history of this valley is but a moment. Then, too, there is another consideration, doubtless a foolish one, in writing such little books as "Fourth Street" and "Loring Park As- pects," and that is the thought, too egotistical perhaps, that a few of the book collectors of 1950, of 1995, or even of the year 2019, as happy in their searches of the old bookstores, attics, and old furniture stores of their days as we have been in similar pursuits in ours, may stumble upon a yellow, dusty, but fairly preserved copy of "Lor- ing Park Aspects," and bear it joyfully away to their shelves. At such a consummation, my happy and flat- tered ghost would knock three mighty raps on the asphalt of Fourth Street or upon the iron work of the Loring Park bridge and then - off to fresh fields and paradises new. A. J. R. December 1, 1918 CONTENTS I The Last Indian . . . 21 II The First White Settlers . 38 III Waste Paper Basket of Memories 68 IV The Indians . . . . 91 V The Lost Brook . . . 114 VI "Dad Houghton" of the Plaza 132 VII Camping Out in Heaven . . 162 ILLUSTRATIONS Joseph S. Johnson . . . Frontispiece Loring Park Region in 1874 . . 20 Mrs. Joseph S. Johnson ... 25 Sara Johnson (Mrs. Paul A. Pierce) 31 Etta and George Jewett ... 49 Oliver C. Gray 61 Olive Francis Barton (Mrs. A. B. Barton) 65 C. M. Loring in 1864 ... 71 Mrs. C. H. Wiltberger ... 77 The Simple Elegance of the Fifties 81 The Bridge over the Ravine . . 87 Indian Trails in Minneapolis . 97 The Mystery Pictures . . . 142-143 Camp Comfort 170 LORING PARK ASPECTS 3g| Hro.ll- «. S '^H --: ., N flH3 - wSl" ; ' , ^m - 4i v • : ! -"'* c -. i?. ' jjte 2 E 'i "%-}, ; ;•■ ';■ 'm, if ^4itf • Km r 'Wi ' i H *"i ' ~* If- * • ii ■'>- ■>*- 11 -'J If : ■ ! t < o g S o THE LAST INDIAN NINETEEN grandmothers, placed agewise, would reach back to a time when Jesus walked the shores of Gennesaret And the life of the near- est of these grandmothers would cover the period when the last Indian was making his home in Loring Park. This seemingly irreverent metaphor, though in truth it is not so intended, may, perhaps, need elaboration. Grand- mothers there are undoubtedly, and many of them, who grow and ripen in years and in practical wisdom, even to the great age of one hundred. If we may be permitted to use them -though with every respect and veneration -to measure the stretch of the long thread of time, we may picture to ourselves more vividly this narrow span of years as it reaches from our brief day back to 22 LORING PARK ASPECTS the notable events in the history of this planet. Letting one venerable ancestress rep- resent a century, we find that it requires but nineteen grandmothers laid in a line, end to end, feet of one to the head of the next, to reach back to the begin- ning of the Christian Era. And if we walk or perhaps saunter, as we purpose doing here, towards the past along this line of grandmothers, we find that we do not pass the first one in the series, before we come upon the last Indian still living in Loring Park, now the very center and heart of Minneapolis. It would hardly seem possible on first consideration that one interested in the history and romance of Loring Park at this late day could discover the name of its last Indian. For the ab- origines impressed the pioneers much as did the moss and lichens of the an- cient trees of the Big Woods, and they were considered of no more impor- tance. The poetical or artistic person of those days gave them a glance, and the missionary or the trader tried to LORING PARK ASPECTS 23 interest them in schemes of salvation or of barter, but otherwise they were looked upon as "of no use" and their histories and records, which they car- ried in their minds only, were neg- lected. Yet no great difficulty was found in bringing to light again the name of the last Indian who lived in this park, or in discovering the name of the first white settler who "took it up" from the government and placed it under culti- vation for the first time in the history of the world. We are all so young and so new to this section, that there are those still living who have seen and talked with this last Indian as he camped beside the Loring Park lake, and who have not only shaken hands with the first white settler, but have actually had their winter's supplies of potatoes from him. We owe to Mr. W. H. Grimshaw our acquaintance with Keg-o-ma-go- shieg whose wigwam was "on the site of Fred Boardman's house" at the cor- ner of Oak Grove and Fifteenth Streets, 24 LORING PARK ASPECTS just south of the park. In the fifties Mr. Grimshaw with his parents came to Hennepin Avenue, where the present Plaza Hotel now stands, to make his home. As a boy naturally would, he took notice of the delightful wilderness around him on every side and he re- members vividly the old Indian camp- ing by the lake. He learned from the neighborhood gossip and then from the Indian himself that his name was Keg- o-ma-go-shieg and that his ancestors had lived on this spot for generations. This section of the country west of the Mis- sissippi had come under the control of the Government, and the Indians were gone. But led by his love for the spot of his birth, this last Loring Park In- dian was accustomed to return in the summer time and camp here to renew his acquaintance with this beloved val- ley, to fish in its lakes and to hunt the wild game of its hills and meadows. Tall, athletic, splendid in bearing, car- rying a powerful six-foot bow with its tough deerskin thong, Keg-o-ma-go- shieg was a mighty figure in boyish - ■ - . ^Vf ,321 : » ' MS . Mrs. Joseph S. Johnson LORING PARK ASPECTS 27 imaginations. He was asked one day if he could shoot an arrow across the lake. A look of contempt passed over the Indian's face. He drew his arrow to the tip and sent it flying over the water. "Look in door of spring-house," he said. The boys scurried around to the oth- er side of the lake and found the flint head of the arrow driven to the shoul- der in the door of the spring-house erect- ed on the eastern rim of the lake by the first white settler of Loring Park, Jo- seph S. Johnson, for the purpose of keeping his cream and butter sweet. In the absence of greater historical figures or of events of national moment, this last Indian in the park becomes of obvious value to us. Reverently as possible, I have stood near "the site of Fred Boardman's house" -as near as one might today without being looked upon in the light of a possible porch- climber -closed my eyes to the present and reconstructed the ancient forest and the ancestral tepees of the Keg-o-ma- 28 LORING PARK ASPECTS go-shieg tribe. No tablet marks the spot and no one cares anything about this important matter. Yet there are tablets and monuments in Loring Park that are more bewild- ering to the mind than would be a bit of bronze indicating the site of Keg-o- ma-go-shieg's wigwam. A tablet that has to do with the Battle of Fort Gris- wold has been erected by a local chap- ter of Daughters. I asked Edward A. Bromley, the historian, just where in the park Fort Griswold stood. He in- dicated, rather too cheerfully, I felt, a spot at the corner of Willow and Fif- teenth Streets. I learned later that he was mistaken. Fort Griswold is in Connecticut on the Thames River op- posite New London. Loring Park can make little claim to a share in the glory of the soldiers who fought there. But whatever claim we can make, our bit of bronze does make. The statue of Ole Bull looks musi- cally down on Harmon Place from the northern exposure of Loring Park. Just what interest the park has in this LP RING PARK ASPECTS 29 great artist, it is difficult to discover. Sitting Bull standing there would be more easily understood. Many other places of real historical interest besides Keg-o-ma-go-shieg's wigwam site remain unmarked in this valley. A well traveled Indian trail, narrow and beaten six or eight inches deep by the tread of countless genera- tions of Indian feet, passed through it from the Calhoun Indian village to the Falls. The Park Board has not indi- cated this old trail, but it is possible to re-locate it from Mr. Pond's map of the old site in 1834 and from the mem- ories of Mr. Grimshaw who has walked over it. Today not a trace of it can be found in the soil, though I have sought it carefully and with tears. And Mr. Grimshaw tells us also of the vast clouds of passenger pigeons, with their long cuneate tails of twelve tapering feathers, wing coverts with black spots, party-colored tail feathers and iridescent necks. In the migrating season they roosted in millions in the trees back of the park. In the after- 3 o LORING PARK ASPECTS noon a dark cloud would appear on the western horizon like a great storm- cloud coming up. Soon the heavens would be entirely covered by these mi- grating birds so that the day was dark- ened. The air was filled with the noise of their wings like the sound of waters. They would alight on the trees in great swarms, breaking down the branches by their mass and weight. But like the buffalo they have gone forever. Then there was the old brook that flowed out of the Loring Park lake, ran across Harmon Place under the auto- mobile buildings and out again and across Hennepin Avenue towards Bas- sett's Creek into which it emptied. This ancient valley I have traced, walk- ing over it with Frank Wiltberger who played on its banks in his youth and I have tried to reconstruct the splendid landscape from his descriptions. And through this section, roughly along Hennepin Avenue, ran the old military road from the Falls to Fort Ridgely and beyond. And the old Johnson farm-house stood here. Why does its site remain unmarked? Sara Johnson (Mrs. Paul A. Pierce) Who was born in the Park LORING PARK ASPECTS 33 A cousin of the Johnson children, who often visited them and played about the fields and woods of her uncle's farm, paints this pleasant pic- ture of her memories of the spot as it was then: I recall how, with my cousins, I flew over that marsh, long curls streaming in the wind, an Indian following and threatening to cut them off. I see the red tufts of the Indian paint brush that dotted the slopes, and the tawny glory of the wild tiger lilies, swaying on their slender stalks among the tall meadow grasses. Can the stiff battalions of the Park Board's flaming can- nas and gladioli make up for that wild grace? Joseph S. Johnson came from Farm- ington, Maine, in 1854. He is de- scribed as "quite a fine looking man, large in size, with benevolent features, wavy, abundant gray hair, rather retir- ing, and a man who made little noise in the world." He was a staunch Dem- ocrat and a famous gardener. His house was on the knoll back of the present structure used by the skaters as a "warming-house." It stood about on the site of the present flag staff. The garden extended down the slope be- 34 LORING PARK ASPECTS tween Willow Street and the Play- ground. The homes of Mr. Johnson's daugh- ter, Mrs. E. P. Wells, and of two of his grandchildren, Mr. Stuart Wells and Mrs. Charles Ireys on Groveland Avenue, all stand on the land of the old farm. The old farm-house, the spring- house, the ancient Indian trail, the brook and its flowery valley, the Mili- tary Road, the Indians -all are gone and the Loring Park region, covered with churches, institutions, schools, li- braries, art galleries, and stately homes, is rapidly becoming a great civic cen- ter. Civic centers, like poets, are born, not made and we ought to recognize them when they appear. After they have once defined themselves, the in- terest in them becomes profound. This urban valley comprising the Parade and Loring Park has become one of the city's great centers, even if it is not the official civic center placed on our as- tonished maps by experts imported from abroad. What another hundred LORING PARK ASPECTS 35 years may do in the way of civic centers we may conjecture if we have "time to let." But today a natural center is de- veloping before our eyes in this old valley upon which we look down from Lowry Hill, at which we wonder and over whose future we dream dreams. As we look down from the heights of Lowry Hill we ask ourselves what has been happening in this splendid spot of ground since the dawn of history and in the long, dark night before that dawn? What was going on here be- fore man trod the globe? What did the place look like in the geological eras when the great river ran down the Bassett's Creek basin, across Bryn Mawr and so on south by way of the Lake of the Isles and Lakes Calhoun and Harriet to its juncture with the Minnesota? What was the appear- ance of this spot and what was happen- ing here when Noah sailed and when Abraham led his flocks in the desert? What was doing in this wild garden of the Lord when Jesus sat alone in Geth- semane, when the barons forced King 36 LORING PARK ASPECTS John to sign Magna Carta, when the Pilgrims landed on the rock, when Washington was taking the presidential^ oath in New York, when Fort Snelling was established in 1819, and when the land of this park itself was first "taken up" from the government of the Unit- ed States "in the fifties" and became the farm of Joseph S. Johnson? If we are walking through the park every day on the way to work, we ought to know more about it. So enormous- ly interesting a stage setting is it that I have been trying to trace out some of its history. My interest in it all was aroused by an old resident of the valley, one who had in fact first attached him- self to the planet here, when he re- marked casually one day on the street- car as we passed over the spot, "Here is where the old brook used to flow. The bridge across Hennepin Avenue was at this spot." "What brook," I asked, "and what bridge?" Then he told at length of the fine stream that once drained Johnson's Lake, flowing across Harmon Place and Hennepin LORING PARK ASPECTS 37 Avenue and emptying into Bassett's delightful "crick." . So I began to ask questions about this Lost Brook, about Johnson's Lake and about the family that gave it its name. Many things are still discover- able, but more are lost. The old swamp and "Barber's pasture" on the western side of Hennepin Avenue are gone. There is nothing here now but the great public field called the Parade and, surrounding it, cathedrals, hotels, the growing Dunwoody Institute, the Armory, and the Northrop School. Mr. Johnson, could he come back and cast an astonished eye on his old farm where he toiled and lived, would never recognize the place under its present aspect. All he would see would be a thousand automobiles trying to run over him, great cathedrals and church- es, libraries and splendid homes. But the old countryside, with the weeds in the corners of the fences, and the mud- dy roads, and the brook sluggishly curling its way from the marshes and ponds that are now Loring Park -they are gone. II THE FIRST WHITE SETTLERS ONE hundred and sixty acres of land, comprising a portion of the present Loring Park, was conveyed by patent from the United States to Jo- seph Smith Johnson, who paid $1.25 an acre for it, on January 19, 1856. So he became legally the first white set- tler in Loring Park. It is of interest to trace the claims that have been made to the ownership of this spot of land. Mr. Johnson ob- tained title from the United States. The United States bought it of France in 1803 m tne Louisiana Purchase. France claimed it from exploration and colonization. Before that time Spain laid claim to the continent, including Loring Park, from Columbus' discov- ery. Before Columbus, were the Ab- orgines. LORING PARK ASPECTS 39 The Indians did not bother them- selves to assert personal ownership to land. They assumed that the Great Spirit intended it for the common good. The United States recognized a certain Indian ownership in the land, however, and went through the forms of purchas- ing it from them. Joseph S. Johnson, the first white man to get a clear title to the essential park, was a State of Maine Yankee and a Democrat. As this is my own birth and creed political, I am convinced that when you find this unusual com- bination, you find an astute personage. Mr. Johnson had been "around the Horn" with the gold seekers of Cali- fornia in 1849, but had returned to Maine where he heard from his broth- er-in-law, Samuel A. Jewett, the news of the coming opening of the Indian reservation at Fort Snelling and the Falls of St. Anthony. The survey of the original township of Minneapolis, not then so called, was made in 1854, the reservation was re- duced in 1855, and Mr. Jewett selected 4 o LORING PARK ASPECTS the one hundred and sixty acres that was filed on by Mr. Johnson on April 21, 1855, an( l t0 which he obtained a patent on January 16, 1856. The white men began "jumping claims" on this reservation in 1849 and 1850, or were given permission by the officers at the fort to hold down claims for services, but most of the "sooners" were driven off by the soldiers or were bought out by those who were ready and waiting to file when the time came. Mr. Johnson's "hundred and sixty" was bounded as follows: The north line ran from the corner of Nicollet Avenue and Grant Street, down Grant Street across the park near the present bridge to the corner of Lyndale Aven- ue and Kenwood Parkway; thence south, to the corner of Lyndale and Franklin Avenues; thence east, to the corner of Franklin and Nicollet Aven- ues; thence north, to the aforesaid cor- ner of Nicollet and Grant Street. Thus it comprised the southern por- tion of Loring Park, including the LORING PARK ASPECTS 41 larger lake, and the high ridge to the south of it. The north half of the park was granted by patent to Allen Harmon on the same day, January 19, 1856. Mr. Harmon had filed on his claim on May l 7) 1855. His south line was Mr. Johnson's north line, from the corner of Nicollet Avenue and Grant Street to the corner of Lyndale Avenue and Kenwood Boulevard; thence north, to the corner of Chestnut and Lyndale Avenues north; thence east, to a point a short distance from the corner of Ninth Street north and Hawthorn Avenue ; thence south, back to the cor- ner of Nicollet and Grant Street. Harmon Place, very properly, was named for Allen Harmon who was a deacon of the Free Will Baptist Church. Mary Place was named for Mary Harmon, his wife. Colonel Stevens in his "Reminiscences" tells us something about Deacon Harmon : During the fall of 1851, our side of the river received a valuable addition in the person of 42 LORING PARK ASPECTS Allen Harmon, who, with his family, came from Maine. He was a man of great worth, and we were pleased to have him for a neighbor, though not a very near one, as his claim was back some distance from the river. He continually resid- ed on it from a few days after the commanding officer at the fort granted him permission to take it until his death some five years ago (1885). He had laid it all out into building lots. Colonel Stevens did not consider Deacon Harmon a very near neighbor, for his home was far back from the river, at the corner of Hennepin Aven- ue and Thirteenth Street. It was far out in the country. Deacon Harmon's eldest daughter, Lucy Harmon, mar- ried C. K. Sherburne, sexton of the Free Will Baptist Church, whose house occupied the lot on Fourth Street where the Phoenix Building and the Metropolitan Theater now stand. He "conducted a grocery store" on Henne- pin Avenue, "between the Pence Opera House and the store occupied by T. K. Gray." In picturing this valley as it must have been when it was farming land, we are fortunate in having the mem- LORING PARK ASPECTS 43 ories of some of those who saw it in its original beauty. Henrietta Jewett Keith, daughter of Samuel A. Jewett and a cousin of the Johnson children, tells this fascinating story of these old days: In 1854, Samuel A. Jewett, professor of lan- guages in East Tennessee University, came up the Mississippi River for a vacation trip. Like the spies who visited Canaan, he was ravished by the beauty of the new land and straightway flung down syntax for the woodman's ax. Hastily gathering together his Lares and Penates in Ten- nessee, including a wife and several small chil- dren, he brought them up the Mississippi River on the big side-wheel steamboat "Grey Eagle" to St. Paul, thence by a Concord four-horse stage to St. Anthony's Falls, placed them in the only vacant house in the town, while he stayed not to see what would happen, but, with an Indian guide and a belt around his waist full of gold pieces, went off into the wilderness to enter pine lands. In this same year, Mr. Jewett preempted from the United States Government at $1.25 an acre, one hundred and sixty acres, holding it for his brother-in-law, Joseph S. Johnson, till he should arrive. Mr. Johnson's land included a portion of our Loring Park of today, with the high bluff south of it, now Oak Grove Street, Clifton, Groveland, and Ridgewood Avenues. The West 44 LORING PARK ASPECTS Side was a goodly land and fair, and greatly to be desired. It had not then been released by the Government for entry and the tales told of rival claims, fierce fights for possession of some choice tract, would joy Bret Harte. Although fortu- nate in holding the Johnson claim undisturbed, Mr. Jewett was not so lucky for himself. He came home one night to find his own claim on Bassett's Creek occupied by a squatter in a has- tily built shanty thrown together with a few boards. Rather than fight, he paid the squatter for his "rights" and occupied the shanty himself. In due time the Johnson family arrived and took possession of a little white house whose site is now marked by the flagstaff on the knoll in the park. These were the pioneers of Loring Park, the pushing pawns of its future greatness. The little white house on the hill saw many changes, even in its own lease of life, before it was moved off for the making of our city's beauty spot. When it was built, the nearest neighbor was Deacon Allen Harmon whose claim was due north. There was but a baker's dozen of houses on this side of the river, which had not then been bridged though Captain Tapper's ferry-boat was running. There was no Minne- apolis, only broad, rolling prairies, and oak open- ings. But they had wide vision, these pioneers, and Hope, that Circe of adventurers, singing her siren song, came with them, and Expectation stood on tiptoe, lifting confident eyes to the future. LORING PARK ASPECTS 45 It seems a wonderful leap from the few log cabins or claim shanties of rough boards to the magnificent buildings, the costly churches, the elegant and luxurious homes of this city of half a million people, the more wonderful that it has happened in the lifetime of the children of that day. It is like Aladdin's lamp. But even then, those brave pioneer spirits dreamed that dream and saw, across the hazel brush pastures as in a beautiful mirage, the domes and spires of today. The pioneers were practical folk and had little time or money to spend on frills. For example, the Johnson kitchen, instead of the front door, faced the lake. And no wonder, for the water supply in winter was obtained by melting great blocks of ice on the back of the kitchen stove, and in summer it was handier to the spring- house for the frequent trips after the milk and butter kept there, as well as the cool drinking water. Wonderful living springs feeding the little lake were among the desirable features in the selection of the homestead. So the view was from the kitchen, the most important part of the house then. Those New England women were past grand- masters of cooking and the good things that is- sued from that kitchen were contrived in spite of many missing links in supplies. Fresh meat was unknown except when some stray hunter brought in venison or bear steak. We "put down" our own barrel of pork in the cellar for meat. And the farmer must have his own cows 46 LORING PARK ASPECTS or hens or he went without milk and eggs. Nev- ertheless babies lived and thrived and are the sturdy grandparents today of the babies that must have their special foods, with whose prep- aration under the strict surveillance of the baby specialist no other function of life may interfere. Cookies and doughnuts for the children were not taboo then, nor mince pies, though they were made with cranberries, picked by the In- dians, in lieu of apples. The town was not dry either, and the cooks were generous with the "oh-be-joyful." We had real New Orleans molasses to put in them too, a clear, brown amber nectar, fit for the gods; and brown sugar, unadulterate. Happy children, to spread thick slices - no thin modern shavelings - of sweet home bread and butter, generous as those spread by Charlotte to assuage the sorrows of Werther, with a top layer of that delectable brown sugar, moist and rich with the unadulterated juices of the cane, sweeter than honey from Hymettus, and with a flavor of Cuban sunshine and hooped casks. Canned goods were unknown, but could any brand of Oneida corn or Country Gentleman equal in succulent richness the sweet corn our mothers spread on sheets on the shed roof and dried in the clear sunshine. Wild blackberries "in tumbling clusters," and wild gooseberries, we children were set to stem. These latter, made into "gooseberry fool," furnished a dish for which the gods might languish. Then there LORING PARK ASPECTS 47 were cranberries from "our marsh"; strawberries cool from under their green leaves, scarlet, ador- able, sweet as those plucked on Pincian hills; wild plums, that, preserved in a clear, scarlet syrup, carried still in their pungent flavor the breath of those white, perfumed thickets whose May springtime had given them birth. We had a "spare chamber," though the chil- dren had to be poked under the big "four-poster" in a "trundle bed" to compass it. The boys had a bed in the open space at the head of the stairs. The spare room was sacred to company. When even that was overflowed, as when there were several ministers billeted on us, beds were made up on the floor for the family. But joyfully we children gave up our beds for the pallet on the floor, for we knew what goodies were brought out for Brother Smith and Brother Jones. We knew that there would be damson sweet pickles, brandied peaches, and great golden blocks of sponge cake, artfully alternated in the big silver cake basket with squares of black fruit cake, heavy with frosting, aromatic with spices. And then the high glass bowl would be brought down from the top shelf and filled with Floating Is- land, a creamy yellow sea, with islands of whipped foam. We did not murmur at the long grace, more like a prayer, which as Lamb says, was as "indispensable as the napkin." How can I crowd and press into one brief chapter the recollection of those early days. The 48 LORING PARK ASPECTS faces I loved are there, the voices I remember. We are dancing, singing, scampering all over the meadow and bluff-side. The Johnson farm yielded most of the family living. On the slope of the knoll, and back of the present rest-house, was the garden, for Mr. Johnson was a famous gardener and nearly al- ways the victor in friendly contests with his relatives as to the first green pease and new potatoes. One favorable season he produced a fine crop of Jersey sweet potatoes on that sandy slope. A picture of Mr. Johnson, in blue jeans overalls and big straw hat, swinging the long scythe or pitching the hay from the marsh into fragrant cocks, is vivid in my memory. He had large, benevolent features and a most kindly blue eye. I remember his wavy, abundant gray hair and winning smile. He was a staunch Democrat and the party could do no wrong. His neighbors were Republicans and political discussion was lively. Mrs. Johnson was dis- tinguished in manner, with all the gentle breed- ing and courtesy of the Cranford ladies. The marshy meadow and the steep bluff formed the great playground for the Johnson and the Jewett children in the years before neigh- bors came. Infinite were the possibilities of those mysterious wooded tangles of the great bluff. And sometimes Indians put a fine edge on the enjoyment. A band of Chippewas camped every summer on the high ground, coming down to the lake to fish and appearing at the kitchen Etta and George Jewett Playmate cousins of the Johnson children LORING PARK ASPECTS 51 door with presents of a black bass or a pickerel, said presents having a market value of bills re- ceivable, in the shape of kerosene, flour, salt pork, or potatoes. Indians were common enough then and even the children were not usually afraid, though on one occasion a young Indian gave chase to one of us, making motions to cut off with his knife the long curls flying in the wind as fear lent wings to her feet. At another time when the Jewett family was on its way to the Johnson home for the Christ- mas dinner, the trip being made in a big box sled and all the children huddled on the bottom under buffalo robes, some young Indians sprang out from behind the trees in Oak Park, with loud whoops and threatening gestures. But these were only the mad pranks of youthful spirits and nobody minded them. One could never tire watching the squaws, sometimes with flowers pinned on unspeakably dirty inner garments, or of hearing them singing queer lullabies to the bright-eyed papooses. This, of course, was be- fore the Indian outbreak of the sixties. To the pioneer women, "help" was a thing that money could not buy. Reaching home from one of his exploring trips in the pine woods at nightfall, Mr. Jewett once brought with him an Indian boy to help in the housework. Diligent search in the morning failed to reveal the faintest trace of the boy, whose lack of enthusiasm in "doing up the dishes" and his reluctance to offi- ciate as a hewer of wood and drawer of water 52 LORING PARK ASPECTS had sent him back to the wilderness and his blanket. Indians have ever been "anti's" and have maintained the male supremacy. It is worth recalling, perhaps, that at one Christmas, under the plate of the four-weeks-old, visiting baby, was a deed to Lot W, in Johnson's Addition. Thus early were additions and real estate men. A portion of the lot, years after- ward, paid the expenses of the baby's two year stay in Europe. But even that comes short of indicating the magical rise in values of the John- son farm. It is worth recording, too, that to these children was given the first Christmas tree in Minneapolis. The tree was cut by one of them, a boy of ten years, on the river bank, with the thermometer standing at forty degrees below zero. This statement may be verified by re- ferring to the files of the Minnesota Republican for the year 1855. The tree was lit with tallow dips set in small square wooden blocks and a large center table had to be removed to make room for it. The gifts were purchased in St. Anthony at Wales' book-store, then a household word. A pair of wonderfully colored glass birds on a wire spring, perched on an incredibly green toy tree, is still preserved under a glass case. To Wales' book-store we looked for rare copies of Harper's or Godey's Ladies' Book. And what joy when there was a new novel by Charles Dickens! LORING PARK ASPECTS 53 Brought up in the straightest of straight- jacket ideas as to novels, my whole acquaintance with fiction until my twelfth year was Home Influ- ence, by Grace Aguilar, and Fredericka Bremer s Home, selected, probably, because of the au- thor's visit to these wilds, when frightened and trembling she crossed the Mississippi in an In- dian dugout. These works adorned the parlor table and were regarded as innocuous. Then, one red letter day, came into our house- hold like a stream of yellow sunlight, Eliza Cahill, sister of William F. Cahill-one of the first Minneapolis millers - and opened heaven. She was an ardent devotee of Thackeray and Dickens. The charm of her bright wit, the gleam of her Irish gray eye, "the grayest of all things blue, the bluest of all things gray," brushed swiftly away those cobwebs of musty prejudice and almost before anybody knew it, The New- comes in black, beloved boards and Bleak House, formerly hid between the mattresses, were house- hold words. We brought with us, too, in the hold of the "Grey Eagle" the first piano in West Minne- apolis, a harpsichord, that, before the river voy- age, had crossed the seas from France. The quaint relic now sings low, very low, in the Ard Godfrey House of the Pioneers' Association. Shall I ever forget the astounding news brought by C. A. Widstrand, the first music teacher of Minneapolis, when he came to give 54 LORING PARK ASPECTS a lesson to the small fingers, that the new Sus- pension Bridge, pride of our hearts, had blown over in the night? And now we have neighbors. Friendly lights cheer the dark of winter nights. The hospitable walls of "The Grays" rise white among the trees, and the narrow path through the meadow and up the blufl side is widened by the passing of friendly footsteps. What joy, to "sup with a friend and go by lantern home," through the bushes and trees of what is now Oak Grove Street and Clifton Avenue. The white house of the Grays, though girt about with many addi- tions, still stands on the original spot and is still the family home. T. K. Gray's drug store still does business at its original stand on Bridge Street, now 108 Hennepin Avenue. Oliver Gray was our first teacher and his school was in a new store build- ing, now the corner of First Street and First Avenue S. I can see now, the wonderful pyra- mid bouquets that adorned the desk of this Adon- is among school teachers, devoted tokens brought by the big girls, their splendor built up, tier after tier, with brilliant wild phlox, tiger lilies, butter- and-eggs, and jimweed. The engineering skill developed by the big girls in piloting their hoop skirts safely between the crowded desks made a deep impression on my mind. We thought nothing, having no street-cars, of walk- ing a mile or two to school, though in winter, Deacon Harmon, Deacon Jewett, and Brother LORING PARK ASPECTS 55 Johnson would drive up with their bob-sleds and take aboard all who lived anywhere along their road. Even now my throat tightens, as I recall the small girl, by some chance missed out from the load, running weeping after the vanishing bells, stumbling in the deep, cold snow, not half as cold as her cold little heart. One day, one of the boys circulated an excit- ing whisper that "the Indians were in town." There was a swift, though silent, exodus, nor was there any return, for we spent the rest of the day in admiring attendance on the Indians, and at night we escorted them to their camp on Hoag's Pond. Hoag's Pond! How many memories cluster about its classic shores. There we built rafts and caught frogs, and built great bonfires to skate by. As we grew older, the bonfires were sometimes less attractive than the shadowy cor- ners and thickets that skirted the shore. // the bonfire got too warm, then a strong and manly arm, Steered her to a friendly corner — far enough, And her little feet would slide closer, closer to his side And a little hand steal from a friendly muff. Charles Hoag, for whom the pond was named, also gave to Minneapolis its musical and rhythmi- cal name. How grateful we should be that we did not continue to hide under that musty old brown cloak of St. Anthony's Falls, which Fa- 56 LORING PARK ASPECTS ther Hennepin substituted for lovely "Kakabi- kah" - "Severed Rock," the name the Chippewas had given them. The new town is growing now, and every boat brings many arrivals. The Bartons came, and tucked their house on the blufl side, buried among the trees, looking to our young eyes as picturesque and stately as a French chateau on wooded heights. The house still occupies its old site, but fronts now on Clifton Avenue, in- stead of, as formerly, on the lake. Florence Barton is now Mrs. C. M. Loring, and their lovely home is near the old house. It seems so right and fitting that our beloved "Father of Minneapolis Parks," whose broad vision and love of nature gave us Loring Park, as he listens for "the summoning bells of twilight time," should spend these last calm days on the ground made so beautiful by his labors of love. The stream of laughing boys and girls that troop in and out of the Shelter House by the great swing, Mr. Loring's beautiful gift, little reck of those pioneer children who played be- neath those same oak trees sixty-odd years ago. But to us, the echo of their gay young voices rings clear, and before us opens a landscape far different, wild, untamed, but full of infinitely endearing charm. With eyes, "like dry, brown flower pods still gripped by the memory of lost petals," we see again the scrubby oaks, the thistles in the fence corners, the fringing willows, the marsh, the slender path that "strung field to wood and wood to field." LP RING PARK ASPECTS 57 Did the children who played under those oak trees, who drank tea from their acorn cups and gazed wide-eyed at the queer little Indian pa- pooses, did they ever faintly dream of the state- ly park, of the white walks, and of the throngs that would pass and re-pass on those walks to- day? Did they see the trim turf and the proud and haughty flowers that neither know nor care of bygone cowslips and violets but can never out- beauty them in our hearts? Did their elders dream of the steep bluff cut down and graded into streets lined with costly homes? Of the reflections of the Pro-cathedral, and the lovely tower of St. Marks, mirrored in the reedy lake, shining and shimmering like fairy towers? Of the stately Plaza and Armory looking down, where they hoed corn and raked the meadow hay ? Could their wildest fancies picture Loring Park at night, a fairy land of magical beauty with its gleaming lamps, the myriad lights of the city around it, the great buildings rising like white castles of mystery over the hilltops ? Such things were to be. Such things were to come to pass in the lifetime of the children who played under those trees and in those hazel brush thickets. But ah, in all the busy rush and whirl of life to-day, with all its wonder of achievement, to us older dreamers there are dreams that are not of the future but of the past. What laughter was it that I heard? What stir of footsteps entered in? 58 LORING PARK ASPECTS What was the murmur, what the word, That made my heart a swirling din, That made me lean to other eyes And made the sudden tears arise? Mr. C. M. Loring, for whose efforts for the park system of this city we can never be thankful enough, adds in a private letter these early remembrances of the park that has been named for him: When I first saw Johnson's Lake, there was a very large spring of water called the Big Spring on the south side of it, a spring that kept the water so high that a large stream flowed from the lake and discharged into Bassett's Creek. When the sewer was built on Fifteenth Street, it cut off the spring much to our regret. For several years after the park was acquired, the spring kept as much as an acre of water from freezing so that it had to be fenced off to prevent the skaters from getting too near the thin ice. After the spring was cut, the lake froze entirely over and all the fish died so that tons of them had to be hauled away in the spring. The only trees now living in the park that were on the land when it was purchased are the tamaracks, the great willows, and the grand old oaks. When Fifteenth Street was graded, many fine trees were destroyed. LORING PARK ASPECTS 59 A marsh occupied the spot now covered by the smaller lake. Through this marsh the stream ran. The marsh was taken out and the material spread over the high land as it was very rich in lime. Just under the turf the marl was almost pure lime. I had it analyzed and it was ninety- five per cent pure. It was as white as snow. What a wonderfully beautiful quarter section of land that was ! Many times I wandered over it when I first came to Minneapolis, and I came very near purchasing the lot Mr. Wells bought, but my wife and I decided that it was too far out in the country. Joseph S. Johnson was born at Farm- ington, Maine, June 15, 181 1, the son of Joseph Johnson, a merchant. He obtained his education in the public schools there. After a few years in California following the year 1849, he returned to Farmington. But the lure of the Great West was on him and he could not resist the call. Samuel A. Jewett was then living in St. Anthony. He owned a large tract of land on Western Avenue along what was later known as Bassett's Creek. Mr. John- son joined him here and took up the land of the park which Mr. Jewett had 60 LORING PARK ASPECTS selected for him against his arrival. He at once began building the little white cottage. While at work on it, he gave the name of "Jewett Lake" to the little sheet of water afterwards known as Johnson's Lake. This was in honor of his wife, Ann Wilder Jewett, a daugh- ter of Samuel and Sarah (Kimball) Jewett, natives of Massachusetts. Mr. and Mrs. Johnson had three daughters. One was Mrs. Anna K. West, recently deceased; the second is Mrs. E. P. Wells of Groveland Ave- nue; the third, who was born in the Park (Sara Johnson), is Mrs. Paul A. Pierce of New York. Mr. Johnson died in 1891 at the aee of eighty. His wife lived until 1898. They were among the first members of the First Baptist Church. T. K. Gray was born of Scotch an- cestry at Jefferson, Maine, on June 17, 1833, was educated at Wescosset Acad- emy at Waldoboro, Maine, and ac- quired a general knowledge of drugs from reading medical books. He was Oliver C. Gray LORING PARK ASPECTS 63 in Toledo, Ohio, until 1855, when, with his brother, Oliver C. Gray, he came to St. Anthony's Falls. Early in 1857 he bought the interest of Dr. Greeley in a West Side drug store and with another brother, John Gray, formed a new partnership under the name of Gray Brothers. John Gray retired in 1874. In 1865, T. K. Gray married Miss Julia Allen, daughter of the Rev. Lorenzo B. Allen. Six children were born in the house at the corner of Spruce Place and Oak Grove Street. Mr. Gray died on December 24, 1909, the oldest retail merchant in Minne- apolis. A. B. Barton, another of the early "neighbors," was born in Portland, Maine, was for a time in business in Boston, but came to St. Anthony's Falls in 1859. Olive Francis Barton, his wife, was born in Livermore, Maine. The Bartons bought nine acres of the old Johnson farm and built the house, now greatly changed, that stands at 202 Clifton Avenue. At the time it was 64 LORING PARK ASPECTS built, it faced Oak Grove Street and a lane led up the hill to it. Clifton Av- enue, when cut through, was to have been named for Mr. Barton, but with his customary modesty he declined the honor. He was in the retail dry goods business on his arrival, was an early secretary of the Board of Trade, first superintendent of Lakewood Cemetery, and one of the organizers of the Gen- eral Electric. He died in 1904 and his wife in 1905. One daughter, Florence Barton, Mrs. Charles M. Loring, sur- vives. Thus we behold the pictures of the Johnson family, the first white settlers in Loring Park, get brief glimpses of the daily life of the old farm-house in the park, and obtain some slight in- formation about "the neighbors" in "the fifties." The rest is silence and forest and field, quiet country, and old immemo- rial woods and hills. But a great and a restless population is pushing rapidly westward, swarming over the fertile prairies and crossing the great rivers Olive Francis Barton (Mrs. A. B. Barton) LORING PARK ASPECTS 67 and mountain ranges on its way to the Pacific. And it will soon overrun these old fields and woods and hills and build over the surfaces of these quiet farms a great and a still growing city. Ill WASTE PAPER BASKET OF MEMORIES THE Park Idea is Born-O there were cakes and ale in St. Anthony and in the town that was to be Minne- apolis in the days when Bridge Square was in its glory! Pioneers who are now well up on the beach, thrown like battered old conches high and dry- not always so dry -by the receding tide, smile, nay, chuckle when "Jimmie Cyphers" is mentioned. Jimmie ran the only restaurant in town in the early sixties, in a small room ten by twenty feet in happy adjacency to the law of- fice of McNair & Wilson. McNair & Wilson's office was a good deal like "the Club." On gay Satur- day evenings prominent business men, when their wives were out of town, and too often when they were not, met at "Mac's" (William Woodbridge Mc- LORING PARK ASPECTS 69 Nair) and at 'Gene's (the Hon. Eu- gene M. Wilson) place to play "Old Sledge" and, incidentally, to talk over village affairs. It was the first Civic and Commerce Association. "Among those present" were David Redfield, J. K. Sidle, Richard Martin, George Kin- nan, Major Emmet, and C. M. Loring, who alone of all these remains with us today. One evening famous in history, though the members of the Club knew it not, "Mac" remarked that the town was growing and cited the names of several men who had recently come to the Falls with money to invest. Every- body was interested then. Talk be- came general. Jimmie Cyphers cir- culated "the spread." I assume that some of it was in liquid form. "Mac" recurred to his theme and stated that he believed that "this town was some day going to have fifty thousand peo- ple!" Everybody paused to consider the glory of the prospect. It would be a city! Then up spake "C. M." (Charles 70 LORING PARK ASPECTS M. Loring, general merchandising, of the firm of L. Fletcher & Co.) and said that if such were to be the case, then it was time "that we were looking out for ground for a park." So Loring Park and the others were born. For this was the germ of the whole park idea in Minneapolis, and the first time that parks were mention- ed. Mr. Loring, "the Father of the Minneapolis Park System," never lost the inspiration and has ever since con- sistently "followed the gleam." For these and other reasons we have the Loring Park of today. Something it yet needs to make it for us all that it should be and will be. We must give it the flavors. A Background is Needed- "Shall we take the Long Path?" asked the gen- tle Autocrat of the Breakfast Table of the school mistress at the close of an autocracy of which none complain. And then he asked her to be quite sure of her answer, for if she decided to take the Long Path with him, it would be for life. C. M. LORING IN 1864 LORING PARK ASPECTS 73 They were on Boston Common to- gether and the Long Path is a well known feature of the Common. And so it got itself into literature and hun- dreds of persons go there and take the Long Path for Oliver Wendell Holmes' sake. And at midnight on January r, 1900, on the opening of the new century, Ed- ward Everett Hale stood at the head of the Common and read to a great mul- titude the Psalm beginning, "Lord, thou hast been our dwelling place in all generations." This Psalm was read from the same place at the opening of the century before. It will be read again in the same place on January 1, 2000. Something of such a background as this Loring Park needs. The Light of Other Days -Yet who shall say that the park has not al- ready something of this atmosphere? While this book was underway, I clipped from the columns of the Min- neapolis Journal the following poem 74 LORING PARK ASPECTS with the caption line "Loring Park in the '6o's" signed by the initials H.P.K. : I dream beneath the willows gray; the years Roll back, the sedgy pond appears, Again I see the waving meadow grass, Again the flying feet that swiftly pass Along the meadow path, when in our play We ran that way. I see the young, green willows, straight and slim Make leafy lairs, with shadows cool and dim, The "sallies" where we played at hide and seek And wandered in our little bare white feet. Willows with trunks now old and gnarled and gray Like me today. I see the meadow grasses, deep and free, Rolling in wind swept waves like a green sea; The warm and scented path, the droning bees. The butterflies, the clover to our knees; I see the cowslips' yellow glory rim The lake's low brim. Again I pluck the flag root and the fern, Again I see the Indian paint brush burn Its crimson torches on the sidling hill, And the wild columbine its honey spill And nod its red and yellow tassels still. I see the tiger lilies on the slope Swaying on slender stalks; the wild gentian ope LORING PARK ASPECTS 75 Blue eyes from under fringing lids. I see The red bird flash, a flame from tree to tree, And you-dart like the bird from flower to flower So gay the hour. Oh , dear and far off days, kept in my heart With you, my playmate sweet, long years apart! Oh but to sing the songs of childhood sweet, To tread the meadow path with flying feet! I dream beneath the willows old and gray. Like me today. Gold Hunters Camp Here -I was told by a man who was almost born on the fringes of Loring Park that "in the seventies" one of his boyhood joys was to chum with the gold hunters who were camping beside the brook that flowed out of Johnson's Lake and crossed Hen- nepin Avenue under the bridge about one hundred feet south of Superior Avenue. On the other side of Henne- pin, across from the present Pro-cathe- dral site, was a fine camping spot cov- ered with splendid trees and bordering on the brook that flowed under the present site of the stone and tile auto- mobile buildings now on the corner of Harmon Place and Hennepin. 76 LORING PARK ASPECTS These gold hunters were on their way to the Black Hills. The smoke of their camp-fires filled this little hollow of the hills. A year or so later, they came back there and camped. Their outfits were pretty well shot to pieces and they had not gathered up the gold by the barrow load as they shovel out the iron on the range. This Black Hills gold was down deep and stuck fast in the rocks and it required about a million dollars of capital to "make a mine." But think of the glorious adventure these Loring Park campers had in finding out these now patent facts. Hutching Hill-W. H. Grim- shaw relates the incident of seeing a crowd of men and boys come scurry- ing down Hutchins' Hill on their way to Lake Calhoun to rescue Eliza Win- ston, a slave girl, held there by a South- ern gentleman who had come North for the summer. The Eliza Winston incident is well known in the early his- tory of the town and I need not go into it here, but why Hutchins' Hill? It Mrs. C. H. Wiltberger Who lived on the site of the Cathedral LORING PARK ASPECTS 79 took some research, but it was finally discovered. It was the hill that ran down and out Hennepin Avenue from Fifteenth and Sixteenth Streets to the Loring Park brook. Chandler Hutch- ins built the house that stood on the site of the present Catholic Pro-cathe- dral. Silas Hutchins, his father, lived near-by. Hence Hutchins' Hill. A daughter of Silas Hutchins married John Green who took up the quarter section that is now Green's Addition on the top of Lowry Hill. A grand- daughter of Silas Hutchins, Mrs. L. E. Carpenter, still resides on Douglas Avenue on the land of the old Green farm. The Chandler Hutchins house, par- tially built over, was later occupied by the C. H. Wiltberger family and still later by the well known R. F. Jones as a zoological farm. The house re- mained until the Pro-cathedral re- placed it. The Indian Trail -The Indian Trail through this valley ran from the Calhoun village of the Dakotas to the 8o LORING PARK ASPECTS Falls of St. Anthony, along the eastern sides of Calhoun and Lake of the Isles, across Green's Addition, down Waver- ly Place, west of Spring Lake, to Bas- sett's Creek and so, following the creek to the river. The Military Road -This govern- ment road ran through the Loring Park Valley to Fort Ridgely and be- yond. The Snelling Branch and the Falls Branch joined in the valley of the Minnesota. It followed, generally, the present course of Hennepin Avenue to the Cemetery and so on to the "Red Mill" at Edina. Mount PiSGAH-The high ridge, now cut down, formerly along the site of the present Ridgewood Avenue and Clifton Avenue extending from near Vine Place nearly to Lyndale Avenue, was called Mount Pisgah from a pop- ular hymn of that day, two lines of which ran: As from Mount Pisgah's lofty height I view my home and take my flight. The Simple Elegance of the Fifties LORING PARK ASPECTS 83 KAKABIKAH-The translation of this word is "Severed Rock." It was the Chippewa name for the Falls of St. Anthony. Gray's Lake -This was the present Spring Lake beyond the Parade. It was at one time also called Huron Lake, but the name did not stick. It was named for T. K. Gray. A stream ran from it and joined Lost Brook on its way to Bassett's Creek. Old STEEPY-The bluff in front and south of the Thomas Lowry house, later cut away to let Hennepin Avenue over the hill, was called Old Steepy. This bluff was "as steep as the roof of a house" and was most difficult to climb. The whole top of this hill has been cut away and the earth thrown in- to the Parade swamp. Dennis Peters "took up" this won- derful quarter section of land on the sides and top of Old Steepy. It was afterwards sold to Dr. C. G. Goodrich whose daughter was the wife of Thom- as Lowry. Hence Mr. Lowry's fine house, built in 1874 and now the prop- 84 LORING PARK ASPECTS erty of T. B. Walker. A portion of this Lowry homestead block has been given to the city by Mr. Walker for a public library and art gallery. Dennis Peters' house was about on the site of the Lowry residence and his sheds and barns in a ravine to the south, about Groveland Avenue. This ravine ran fifty feet under the present surface where the Lowry statue stands. It was filled in for the Government road and the whole cut down later. The Washington Yale Woods - This was the forest that orginally cov- ered the north section of Loring Park and the adjacent property. Many of the old trees remain. The "Picnic Ground" of those days was near the corner of Spruce Place and Fourteenth Street. The Old Chief's Grave -This grave I am unable to locate exactly. It was on the top of the bluff about where Logan or Morgan Avenues cut Mount Curve Avenue. It is thought that the grade has been cut down and the old site lost. For many years after John LORING PARK ASPECTS 85 Green took up his quarter section, the Indians were accustomed to make sum- mer pilgrimages to this grave and re- main there for a day or two at a time. The four great bowlders that marked it, they would every year paint over red again. Finally, when the white people became too numerous, the In- dians returned for the last time, opened the grave and removed the bones to some more secure location. Who this Great Chief or Medicine Man was, I have not been able to discover. The Haunted House- All the pio- neers of the Loring Park section tell of "the haunted house." Two small houses occupied lots between the Plaza Hotel and the Brook. The house near- est the Plaza block was occupied by a man named John Holmes, and in this house, because of despondency, he killed himself. The house was known to be haunted after that time, but I have been unable to discover any living person who saw or heard the ghost. The Beede House- Built and occu- pied by William Beede this house was 86 LORING PARK ASPECTS next in line north of the haunted house. No pictures of these houses survive. Barber's Pasture -This was west of Lyndale Avenue in the valley between the bluff and the hill back of the Dun- woody Institute. Here the cows of the town were driven to pasture by the boys. It was owned by D. R. Barber. Powderhorn Lake -This lake was in the vicinity of Lyndale Avenue and Franklin. The present Powderhorn Lake was then called Casey's Lake. The Bridge over the Ravine -The bridge picture with this section gives a view of the ridge that few living Min- neapolitans have seen. This bridge started on or near the present Clifton Avenue, a little east of the Barton res- idence, and ran over a deep ravine to a second and much more mountainous ridge somewhere near the present Groveland and Ridgewood Avenues. The exact location is lost, for when this section was "improved," the tops of the two ridges were cut away and thrown into the ravine. Old residents mourn that the landscape artist of later days The Bridge over the Ravine LORING PARK ASPECTS 89 was not then born to treat properly in the matter of streets and sites this in- comparable residence section. The house faintly indicated in the picture at the top of the bluff was the residence of William W. King, who built it in i860 or 1861, with a long car- riage road down to Nicollet Avenue. Vine Place did not then exist. Mrs. King was Julia Lovejoy, daughter of James A. Lovejoy. The youngest son of this family now resides at 1716 Col- fax Avenue south, and a daughter, Mrs. Charles S. Hardy, at 68 South Elev- enth Street. James Couchman purchased the King house in 1864 and lived there for many years. His daughter still lives at Lake Minnetonka. A niece, Mrs. W. G. Hollis, resides at 3035 Irving Avenue south. The Rev. James H. Tuttle, so well known here, occupied the King house later in its career, until it was taken down and its stately site reduced. The Finest View in the Valley - Emerson in his "Divinity School Ad- 9 o LORING PARK ASPECTS dress" speaks of the unique impression of Jesus upon mankind, "whose name is not so much written as plowed into the history of this world." Standing at the southeastern corner (the inside corner) of the Hennepin Avenue Methodist Church, it is pos- sible to obtain a view across this valley that few persons have seen. The eye glances along the eastern sides of the Hennepin Avenue Methodist Church and of St. Mark's Pro-cathedral, across the valley to the front of the Pro-cathe- dral of St. Mary, giving a wonderful illustration of the influence of Jesus upon this valley in the short time that it has been occupied. This is the finest view, architecturally speaking, to be found in Minneapolis. IV THE INDIANS PUBLIC opinion and the prevalent sense of humor do not permit the emotional American to express himself with any degree of freedom. I know of one person who, for these reasons, looked carefully around to see that the action was not observed by his fellow countrymen before he placed his arms as far as they would go around the great oak tree at the Grant Street en- trance to Loring Park and pressed a kiss of real affection and understanding against its rough back -much as one roaming in the park of a sunny after- noon might greet his long gone great- great-great-grandmother should he meet her unexpectedly, still vigorous and flourishing, despite a passage of time in which decades and centuries had fallen "like grains of sand." 92 LORING PARK ASPECTS This enormous vegetable -reference is made to the oak tree and not to the aged female relation -was undoubtedly growing where it now stands, a sturdy- young forest tree, when Fort Snelling, for many years thereafter the extreme outpost of frontier civilization, was erected in 1819. No white man had laid hand or ax to it, for it was many years after this time before there was a white settlement north of Prairie du Chien. It was the policy of the Gov- ernment of the United States to allow no white men except the employes of the fur companies in Loring Park or on any of the other Indian lands, and this tree, as long as the Indians maintained their opposition to hard manual labor such as lumbering entails, was as safe as any tree on this continent could well be. For why should any sensible per- son engaged in the pursuit of happiness cut down trees while there was plenty and to spare of dead and down timber that would serve as firewood? The Indian was not so great a fool. He LORING PARK ASPECTS 93 spent his time, and there seemed to him to be plenty of it, in living. It is an art that many of his successors on this spot have lost if they ever had it. They merely work in the office, or elsewhere, pending the time when they will be able to escape and live. This expected happy time is like tomorrow. It fails to keep its appointments. The Indians had for thousands of years been occupied in perfecting their art of living. I have consulted numer- ous authorities in an attempt to discov- er where these Indians originally came from and how long they have been here, but I find that even the wisest among the writers of books about them are rather non-committal. Perhaps the best ethnological bet is that the red men were originally Mongolian Tartars who, in some unknown way, possibly by means of boats or of ice floes follow- ing the breakup of the glacial period, found themselves "across" and worked their way down the coast, gradually spreading over the whole of North 94 LORING PARK ASPECTS America. These last six or seven thousand years would give them all the time needed for this program. We do know, however, that our Sioux were once "Easterners" who, centuries ago, adopted some dusky Horace Greeley's advice to "Go West and grow up with the country." Eth- nologists have shown that the tribes of the Sioux linguistic stock, a stock to which those found in the vicinity of Loring Park belonged, at one time oc- cupied the Piedmont and Atlantic Coast areas between the Appalachian range and the Atlantic Ocean in the present states of Virginia, North Caro- lina, and South Carolina. The bison had crossed the Appalachians, proba- bly by the Cumberland Gap, and were once in the Piedmont area. It is thought that the retirement of the bison from that section, or their growing scarcity there, drew the ancestors of our Dakotas westward. Prior to 1800 the bison were found in the western portion of Wisconsin and over nearly all the State of Minnesota. But on the LORING PARK ASPECTS 95 whole it is just as likely that it was the wild rice that held the early Sioux in the Mississippi and Minnesota valleys. This wild rice was God's free offering to the aborigine and he accepted it gratefully and thought no more about it. Schoolcraft states that in the first part of the nineteenth century the Da- kotas were in three principal villages. "The first of these was east of the Mis- sissippi and about four miles from the Minnesota river. The second was on the Mississippi river. The third was on both sides of the Minnesota river about six miles from its mouth." La Harpe mentions nine Dakota vil- lages west and seven east of the Mis- sissippi. In these he figures about two thousand inhabitants, an estimate that other authorities consider far too small. Seven or eight thousand is a much more reasonable supposition. The Calhoun village on the site of the city of Minne- apolis was made up of these Indians. How long they had been in and out of Loring Park it is idle to conjecture, 96 LORING PARK ASPECTS but we find them strongly in evidence in the vicinity when Father Hennepin reached the Falls in 1680. When Fort Snelling was erected in 1 8 19, the Dakota village at Lake Cal- houn, which the Indians called "the Inland Lake," had a population of five hundred to seven hundred persons -to say nothing of the dogs. These In- dians were familiar with Loring Park, Spring Lake, and the glens and heights of the Lowry Hill Range, but they had done nothing to improve them. As a matter of fact they needed no improve- ment, for they furnished famous hunt- ing grounds as they were. There were otters in Bassett's Creek where it crossed Fourth Street long after Col- onel Stevens had built his house above the Falls and what Lost Brook may have contained in the way of otter, beaver, and other wild life, we can now only conjecture. Thanks to the Brothers Pond, Sam- uel W. and Gideon H., who came to the Calhoun village as missionaries in 1 834, we know much about the outskirts dPTorth \ f# I: \ Indian Trails in Minneapolis Mr. Pond's Map, taken from the book, Two Volunteer Missionaries Among the Dakotas, by S. W. Pond, Jr. LORING PARK ASPECTS 99 of Loring Park. In a letter one of the brothers has left this description of the Indian town: The village which stands on the southeast side of the lake (Calhoun) consists of fourteen dwell- ing houses, besides other small ones. The houses are large and two or three families live in some of them. You would not see our house from the village but turning to the right along the east bank of the lake, and ascending a hill, after walking about a quarter of a mile, you would find our house on the high ground I mentioned before as being covered with timber, between the woods and the lake. Mr. Pond's letter was accompanied by a rude map of the present site of Minneapolis, giving the location at Lake Calhoun of the Indian village which occupied^ apparently, the site upon which the Misses Elsa, Brenda, and Anne Ueland spent their child- hood. Mr. Pond also indicated on his map the two well trodden Indian trails or paths from the village to the Falls. One of these passed through our own Hollow of the Hills. So we have the first thoroughfare through the valley all laid out for us to study and ioo LORING PARK ASPECTS retrace. The other trail bent away from the lake and, avoiding the rough- er ground of the Lowry Hill section, bore away for the Falls across the prai- rie over towards Nicollet Avenue, striking the river somewhere from Fourth to Eighth Avenues south. But the first trail, and this is our peculiar property for it runs through our valley, made its way along the eastern shore of Lake Calhoun, skirted the eastern shore of Lake of the Isles, thence struck a little east of north, cut- ting the Lowry Hill bluff at Waverly Place. The trail then connected with Bassett's Creek by running west of Spring Lake and across Bryn Mawr, and followed the valley of this beauti- ful stream to the river. Near where Waverly Place cuts the Lowry Hill bluff, a glen or depression ran down through the hill. Even to modern times traces of the old glen were to be found extending back from the bluff across Humbolt Avenue and the lots now occupied by Ezra Farnsworth, C. LORING PARK ASPECTS 101 W. Somerby, G. Fred Smith, Frank Reed, and the eastern portion of the large lot on the Mount Curve frontage of the same block. When the Pond map is imposed on the present map of the city, the old trail appears to find its way over the brow of the hill near the former Waverly Place glen. Mahpiya Wicasta, whose name is translated Cloud-Man or Man-of-the- Sky, was chief of this Calhoun band of Sioux. He is described, in 1834, as a man of about forty years of age, re- spected and loved by his people and as well obeyed as Indian chiefs usually were. He was an intelligent man of a good disposition and showed no hos- tility to the approach of white civiliza- tion. Some of his band -and these are the names of Indians who formerly roamed the Loring Park district and trapped game there- were Eagle-Head, Whistling-Wind, Spirit- Walker, Iron- Lightning, Thunder-Face, Zitkadan- Duta (Red Bird), Rapacoca-Maza, Owanca-Duta, two brothers named 102 LORING PARK ASPECTS Hepi and Catan, Wamdiokie, Seca- Duta, Minnie-apa-win and To-te-duta- win. While the translations of some of these names are, perhaps, better than others of which we read, it must be con- fessed that the pioneer as a rule, in his translations into English of Indian names, was not happy. Take the ra- ther humorous Indian name of Rain-in- the-Face and give it its proper quality by a correct translation of the thought, and we have the noble appellation of Man-Who-Turns-His-Face-to-the- Storm or perhaps better still, He-Who- Faces-the-Storm. Perhaps the Indian of the Calhoun band who was called by the white men Whistling-Wind finds a better and more correct place in history as The-Strength-of-the-Storm. Iron-Lightning, too, may weigh heav- ier in the estimation of posterity as Heaven's-Hard-Stroke. Even Spirit- Walker loses some slight humorous connotation with our own Weary Walk- er by a translation that better indicates LORING PARK ASPECTS 103 his peculiar gift, One-Who-Slips- through-the-Forest-Like-a-Shadow. These dignified and photographic names have something of the native dignity of their original Indian posses- sors. Beyond the shadow of a doubt, these very Indians roamed this very hollow, knew its circling hills as we know them, dreamed their dreams, sang their songs, lived out their days, and knew the joys of life and the fear of death here, as we know them today. I picture the solitary Indian wending his way down the Lowry Hill bluff and singing to himself his tribe's "Song of the New Spirit on Arriving in the Spirit World": Ate he u-we, ate he u-we Ate eyaya he u-we lo, Ate eyaya he u-we lo, Yanipe-kta eya u-we lo, Yanipe-kta eya u-we lo, There is the father coming. There is the father coming, The father says this as he comes, The father says this as he comes, io 4 LORING PARK ASPECTS "You shall live/' he says as he comes, "You shall live!' he says as he comes. Or perhaps, while sitting by the side of Lost Brook, he hummed to himself the old Sioux hymn that claimed this beloved bit of the earth as the work of Wakantanka, the Great Spirit or Fa- ther. This song was called "Lechel Miyoqan-kte" : Lechel miyoqan-kte lo — yoyoyol Lechel miyoqan-kte lo — yoyoyol Taku maka-ichagha hena mitawa-ye lo — yoyoyo! Taku maka-ichagha hena mitawa-ye lo — yoyoyo! Ate heye lo — yoyoyo! Ate heye lo — yoyoyo! Eya yoyoyo! Eya yoyoyo! This is to be my work — yoyoyo! This is to be my work — yoyoyo! All that grows upon the earth is mine — yoyoyo! All that grows upon the earth is mine — yoyoyo! Says the father — yoyoyo! Says the father — yoyoyo! Eya yoyoyo! Eya yoyoyo! The Indians were not altogether hunters and poets. Some of them al- LORING PARK ASPECTS 105 lowed and encouraged their squaws to cultivate on the fertile prairie east of Calhoun considerable fields of quickly maturing corn. In the year 1839 Can- puha raised 100 bushels; Xarirota, 50 bushels; Hoxidan-Sapa 50 bushels; Karboka, 240 bushels, and Ohin-Pa- Duta, 440 bushels. While the squaws did the work, the men more nobly spent their time hunting and ranging the woods. Frequently they listened in awe to the thunder of the Falls or wan- dered idly in Loring Park. Their attire, before the costumes of the white men contributed to it, was picturesque and nobly beautiful. It was made up of leather hunting shirt, leggings reaching to the thigh, large blanket, and moccasins. The leggings and ornamentation were of striking col- or, some black, others blue, red, or yel- low. Sometimes one legging was black and the other blue or red, thus adding an agreeable variety in legs to the beau- ties of the primitive landscape. The men wore breech-cloths, which formed 106 LORING PARK ASPECTS the only difference in the dress of the sexes. With them roamed their faithful dogs, friendly but suspicious. Mr. Pond estimated that in the Calhoun village there were about six hundred dogs, all of them ambitious to announce anything from the appearance of the new moon to the arrival of a hostile Ojibway "and as soon as the first bark has cleft the stillness, a discordant chorus resounds to the remotest border of the camp." But one hot day in July of 1839, they found something to announce that stirred this entire region to its depths. Men, women, and children of the vil- lage were happily engaged in swim- ming, fishing, chopping wood, singing, yelling, playing, and wailing, when suddenly, "like a peal of thunder when no cloud is visible," writes Mr. Pond, "here, there, everywhere, awoke the startling war-whoop. Hoo, hoo, hoo! Blankets were thrown into the air; men, women, and children ran -they ran for life., Terror sat on every face -mo- LORING PARK ASPECTS 107 thers grasped their little ones. All around was crying, wailing, shrieking, storming, and scolding. Men vowed vengeance, whooped defiance, and dropped bullets into their gun barrels. The excitement was intense and univer- sal! The Chippewas! The Chippe- was have surrounded us -we shall all be butchered! Rapacoca-Maza is killed!" On the southeastern shore of Lake Harriet the son-in-law of the chief lay dead, a bullet hole through his body and his scalp torn from his head. The summoning runners were soon scudding in all directions bringing up additions to the forces of vengeance. And this is what the Loring Park trail now sees late on the hot afternoon of that July day. The avengers of blood from as far away as Shakopee's band, to the number of about four hun- dred, in full war-paint, with Red Bird at their head, come trailing down over Lowry Hill, across Bryn Mawr and along the valley of Bassett's Creek to the Falls. A long wail goes up from 108 LORING PARK ASPECTS four hundred throats. Red Bird utters his imprecatory prayer to the gods and the spirits of the ancestors. The pipe of war goes down the ranks and Red Bird lays his hands on all heads bind- ing the warriors to strike valiantly for their gods and for their homes. The next evening the runners with news from the battle begin to trail their way back again through our Hollow of the Hills to the Calhoun village. Red Bird, his son, and a dozen others of the warriors are killed. But the Da- kotas have exacted a terrible penalty from their ancient enemies. The Chip- pewa band is nearly exterminated. Seventy scalps dangle from poles on Judge Ueland's lawn. The scalp dance lasts for a month. Mr. Pond bears this eloquent witness : "It seemed as if hell had emptied it- self here." But it was not all rejoicing and glory. The plaintive song and the bitter and long continued waitings of the bereaved mother and lonely wife resound in these woods and along these shores and hills, LORING PARK ASPECTS 109 "one of the saddest sounds," writes Mr. Pond, "when heard in the silence of the forest, in the dusk of evening, which ever fell on human ear or issued from human lips. It was a wailing for the dead." Long before we came here, our Hol- low of the Hills, our hillsides and shores had their solitary weepers, those who wandered through Loring Park or sat upon the hills surrounding it, pon- dering the questions of the heart, the old problems of life and death and! grief and finding no answer. For the Indians were not at first in- clined to accept the statements and ex- planations of the missionaries. They considered themselves religious al- ready. The Rev. Gideon H. Pond makes this entry in his diary: This afternoon I had some conversation with Kayan Rotanka who is strongly of the opinion that their religion and that of the bible are the same, and that he has been a Christian twenty years. Deluded man ! Can these dry bones live ? Yes, these dry bones can live and they do live. Cloud-Man, chief of the Cal- no LORING PARK ASPECTS houn band, had two daughters and sev- eral sons. One of the daughters mar- ried, in the Indian form, an officer in the army at Snelling. She was, as Mr. Pond bears witness, "a fine intelligent child, one of the most prepossessing in appearance of her race, and as bright and intelligent as she was handsome." She picked up a great deal of instruc- tion at the mission. Her daughter, who was called "Nancy" by the white people, although her proper name was Great Spirit, had two sons, active, in- telligent, and influential men. Their names are well known in the North- west. One of them, the Rev. John Eastman, was pastor of a Presbyterian church at Flandreau in South Dakota, and the other, Dr. Charles Eastman, a graduate of Dartmouth and a man of superior attainments, both literary and medical, has as his wife the poetess, Elaine Goodale. The book from which I have quoted so freely, Two Volunteer Missionaries Among the Dakotas, a book that should LORING PARK ASPECTS in be on the shelves of every Minneapolis library, says of these men: These two young men have usually been spo- ken of as full Dakotas, but strictly speaking they are three-quarter bloods. They are the great- grandsons of Cloud-Man of Lake Calhoun, the patriotic elements of whose character they seem to have inherited in marked degree. Such men - thoughtful, progressive, practical - are an honor to any age and to any race. The Indians were certainly religious enough in their way and they had their prophets and seers too. The descend- ants of the Red Wing band of the Sioux have preserved the details of the following extraordinary premonition which was told to Dr. John D. Quack- enbos by one of the tribe. More than a century before Fulton launched the "Clermont," Tatankamani, an aged chief, predicted that a strange creature, with two black parallel horns emitting smoke, would come up the Mississippi River and enter Lake Pepin, defying the children of the forest in terrible war-whoops. Thus the seer described the advent of the steamboat which he ii2 LORING PARK ASPECTS interpreted as a bad omen for his race. He chanted his prophecy on an over- hanging bluff of the river so impress- ively and with such assurance of its fulfilment that it was never lost sight of by his people. And when the first steamboat ascended the Mississippi and entered the lake, the Indians gathered on the bluff and as they gazed in won- der they sang the prediction of their prophet in his own words. Yes, the little forest tree, now the great and venerable oak at the Grant Street entrance of Loring Park, has seen all this -and much more. In the old woods it was elbowing its compan- ions for its place in the sun long before modern civilization had set foot in this section of the country. It has seen the Indian disappear and Lost Brook wan- der away forever. It has seen the first white man appear, measuring and se- lecting the lands he was to cultivate. It has watched the city in all its power and glory grow up around it. It has seen the old farms give way to the great streets and avenues flung across the LORING PARK ASPECTS 113 flanks of the hills, to splendid buildings and to broad, sweeping parks and play- grounds. Very taciturn and determined this great oak has stood there all these years, building over air, sunshine, mois- ture, and soil into good, solid oak wood and worried neither by Indians, lum- bermen, lovers, farmers, poets, nor Park Boards. If it could tell its story, we should know much more about Lor- ing Park Valley and the little hills that shut it in. THE LOST BROOK I HAVE always respected the engi- neering ability that turned the Chi- cago River around. Here was a mud- dy and befouled stream pouring its floods of defilement into the city's drinking water. It was impossible to purify it. The only thing left to do was to make it flow the other way, out of the lake instead of into it. It was an indignity that no other river has suffered. It took mind, money, and time, but these essentials were at hand and the astonished river soon found it- self going the other way. Tennyson adopted the brook as the symbol of the eternal flow. Men might come and men might go, but the brook, chattering on its way to join the brim- ming river, went on forever. But these smaller streams have been even LORING PARK ASPECTS 115 more cavalierly treated by the hands and minds of men. They have been filled in and the water carried away in drains or left to find its lost way as best it might. It is doubtless a foolish wish and per- haps a dangerous one that the same en- gineering skill that has turned the Chi- cago River around and has filled in the valley of our own Loring Park brook, might be applied to the River of Time. But it is neither upon the banks of the Chicago River, nor upon the marge of Tennyson's brook, that we stand to- day, but upon the new surface of the earth that now overlies the Lost Brook that once flowed in the Loring Park district, a stream that the hand of man has wiped so utterly from the earth that it can no longer be located in Hudson's complete "Dictionary of Minneapolis" nor found upon any of the present maps of the city. Barely a trace of its for- mer course can be seen in its old valley. Yet by consulting the minds of the eld- ers we may find this stream still flow- ing and we may bring to the surface n6 LORING PARK ASPECTS once more that old fertile, flowery, bird-haunted valley. For in a few hu- man hearts this stream flows still, as blue as the skies that once smiled above it and as free and unfading. "Where is the stream?" he cried with tears. "Seest thou not the blue waves above us?" He looked up and lo! the blue stream was flowing gently over their heads. In the wild country back of the grow- ing town of Minneapolis, before the city had begun to be thought about, this Lost Brook was a conspicuous meadow stream. It drained Johnson's Lake, now the Loring Park Lake, and it also took care of the surplus waters of Spring Lake and of the spongy, swampy country between. It began its course from the lake and from the great springs that formerly burst from the ground just east of the bridge in Loring Park and on the south side of the larger lake. It flowed through a swamp, now the smaller Loring Park Lake, and ran thence directly north. It crossed the yet unmarked Harmon Place about one hundred feet from that LORING PARK ASPECTS 117 thorofare's future point of junction with Hennepin Avenue, and ran through the lowlands now covered by the buildings on the corner. Here it broadened somewhat and lingered. Then it slipped away suddenly to the west across the old country road (Hen- nepin Avenue) which was rudely bridged at a later day to give it pas- sage. How many of those who now travel Hennepin Avenue in ever grow- ing numbers look down and see, twelve or fifteen feet under the present sur- face of the avenue, the blue waters of the Lost Brook that once ran there? Crossing the field west of Hennepin, on land now owned by the city, the stream twisted north again and ran along what is now Lyndale Avenue, then bent west on Superior Avenue, turning north again farther up the avenue to join the Bassett's Creek swamp beyond the car tracks and the Laurel Avenue bridge -and so on to the Mississippi River. Walking over the ground with one who had spent much of his childhood n8 LORING PARK ASPECTS upon its banks, I have carefully re- traced the old valley of the Lost Brook, and I have followed its windings until all trace of them is lost in the mazes of the railroads. It was not so small a stream as one might imagine. Portions of its course boasted two feet of water. The boys had their swimming holes in these places and two of the children (Frank Wiltberger and Louise Hig- gins) once launched a home-made ca- noe upon the brook where it deepened in the hollow north of Harmon Place, a spot that is now covered with the tile and stone structures of the automobile trade. I have seen the Loring Park brook only through other eyes or as I have reconstructed it for myself from the old maps and from the descriptions of those who played upon its banks. It is a brook of lost youth. It symbolizes this invisible Brook or River of Time, flow- ing so steadily, and bringing you "and all your folks" into Loring Park for an afternoon of rest and sunshine -and LORING PARK ASPECTS 119 then flowing remorselessly over you in your turn, and so on forever. I have spent long years within or up- on the rim of the hills that surround this depression of the earth's surface in which the Lost Brook once flowed - this Hollow of the Hills made up of Loring Park, the Parade, and the Bryn Mawr country- and it has all become dear to me, although the books of the city and county show no more than fif- ty feet of the precious soil that I may legally call mine. Possession in this way, however, is cumbersome and un- necessary. Appreciation is possession, and in that way one may be heir to the whole domain, though the tax assessor know him not. The Lost Brook had been flowing so long that, at its death, it outdated the pyramids of Egypt. For our first def- inite knowledge we have of Loring Park takes us back about 7,803 years. This may be made clearer to the imag- ination if it is written 5,885 B.C. It may seem difficult at first thought to 120 LORING PARK ASPECTS connect such ancient worthies as Adam, or Noah, or Abraham with Lowry Hill, but it is well within the possibil- ities of research. Long before Adam's day, if the figures on the sides of the columns of the King James version of the Bible may be trusted (though I am given to understand by scholars that they may not be) the Mississippi River was running through the Bassett's Creek valley, across the Bryn Mawr lowlands and through the present Lowry Hill range, then not there, and through Cedar, Lake of the Isles, Cal- houn, and Harriet lakes, to its junction with the Minnesota River above Fort Snelling. This left Loring Park in a delightful prairie valley sloping grace- fully down to the river west of it. It was the valley of the possible stream that flowed there before the Lost Brook, on whose banks we are dream- ing today, was born. For the Lost Brook followed the last Glacial Epoch. But no description of the Loring Park section previous to the year 5,885 B.C. will be attempted here. You LORING PARK ASPECTS 121 must see it for yourself and bring to the view whatever power of the scien- tific imagination you may happen to possess. All that we are sure of is that the Mississippi River was then flowing across North Minneapolis through the Bassett's Creek basin and the lakes, joining the other river somewhere be- tween Snelling and Shakopee. The great gorge it cut through the Trenton limestone is there today, filled with glacial debris, to give us this geological tip. But it was long before the year 5,885 B.C. that the Preadamites who lived in the Loring Park section told one an- other as they went down to their work in the morning that the climate was changing. At that time at least, they were correct in their assumption. The great Ice Age was coming on. It is probable that the last Glacial Epoch took centuries to perfect its suit. It had all the geological time there was and it was not hurried in the least. If the occurrence of our winter in aphe- lion, caused by the- Precession of 122 LORING PARK ASPECTS Equinoxes and the revolution of the Line of the Apsides, about 11,300 years ago, was the cause of the last Glacial Period, it follows that it took about 3,500 years for the establishment and withdrawal of the ice margin at Loring Park. What are little things like cen- turies between geologists? We do know at any rate that some- where around these formidable dates an eternal winter like that of the in- terior of Northern Greenland set in over Loring Park and Lowry Hill and that the great ice fields came grinding remorselessly down over them from the north. One of these glacial streams went down the valley of Lake Michi- gan, another down the valley of Green Bay and its continuation to Madison, Wisconsin. Still others streamed from Keweenaw Point and Duluth into Cen- tral Minnesota and Wisconsin It was one of these latter ice streams that came grinding and crushing into Loring Park. It filled the entire gorge of the great river in the Bassett's Creek basin solid full of old clay, bowlders, gravel, LORING PARK ASPECTS 123 glaciers, and icebergs larger than the First National and Security Bank. The puzzled and bedammed river, unable to force a way through, turned to the east and northeast and made various channels to the present Mississippi- Minnesota valley and so, finally, began the Falls of St. Anthony where the riv- er tipped over into the gorge some- where near the present site of Fort Snelling. Since that time we know what has happened to the Falls. They have been receding steadily, cutting into the lime- stone ledge, until they have arrived where they are at the present time. This has taken 7,803 years as Professor N. H. Winchell has figured it. From the study of old documents and pictures of the Falls, he found that the rate of recession from 1680, Father Henne- pin's time, to 1856, was from four to six feet per year. As the whole dis- tance the Falls have gone is eight miles, the time required for the cutting of the gorge was found to average out at about 7,803 years. i2 4 LORING PARK ASPECTS We may make fanciful guesses at the appearance of Loring Park in the cen- turies before the ice era, but there is no doubt of its exact status about 7,803 years ago, after the glacial streams of ice and debris had passed across the country from the north. Anyone who thinks of this glacial time as "a cold snap" or as "a spell of weather" is not doing the climate of that time justice. Professor Alexander Winchell writes of it in words that show its catastrophic quality. The entire continent north of an irregular line passing through New York, Fort Wayne, Madison, Minneapolis, and Yankton lay, like the soil of Greenland in our time, buried beneath a bed of snow and ice some thousands of feet thick. The summits of the Adirondacks, the Catskills and the White Mountains barely emerged above the desolate, featureless waste. When we stand on the little heights of the Lowry Hill range, or when we build our homes upon them, and mar- vel that ice and water could transport such great masses of material, we should stop for a few moments and try to visualize the great ice and snow LORING PARK ASPECTS 125 fields piled thousands of feet high over Loring Park and above Lowry Hill, and we should remember that they had been grinding away at the hills and valleys all the way from Duluth, and how much further we do not know, plowing and dragging along whatever soil or rock could be picked up in their interrupted progress. With this vast ice mass in mind, we may be able to appreciate the fact that Lowry Hill is merely a handful of incidental gravel - a bit of cosmic dust in the eye of crea- tion. The fact that this gravel dropped where it did and became Lowry Hill was merely a slight incident in the melting and subsidence of the ice sheet. The returning warmth found Loring Park very comfortably shut in by its little hills and fairly free to develop into the glorious and fertile valley that it became. Fanciful persons have thought to connect Noah's flood with the melting of this great ice deposit around the northern hemisphere of the planet. The supposition is not entirely foolish. Tradition might well have 126 LORING PARK ASPECTS handed down a story from so terrific and overwhelming an inundation. As the ice melted more and more freely with the passing of the epoch, Loring Park was filled with water and debris. The lake soon began to define itself and the present features roughly to appear. And it was at this time that the birth of Lost Brook took place. I am told by those of the early settlers who had interest enough in the face of the earth to take casual notice, that the brook that flowed out of Johnson's Lake had cut steep banks through the high ground of the present Harmon Place north of the smaller lake. The lake at one time evidently filled the en- tire Loring Park basin to the Harmon Place rim, where the spillway of the rainy seasons must have been. This spillway cut deeper and deeper as time went on and as the floods came and went, until the brook had cut through the drift deposit where it flowed over, and had established itself a valley lead- ing to the Bassett's Creek lowlands, and so to the river. The deeper the cut, LORING PARK ASPECTS 127 the lower the Loring Park lakes, until in the forties and fifties, when the white man arrived to settle there, the smaller lake had become a swamp and the greater lake was beginning to show some of the characteristics of a bog. When the Park Board of Minne- apolis secured the Central Park tract in 1883, the smaller lake was excavated from the old swamp and the great lake was considerably enlarged and its banks built up from the sediment taken out. Harmon Place forever dammed the Lost Brook which ceased to flow when the city's sewers cut the sources of the springs that fed the lakes. Hennepin Avenue's great bluff to the south was cut down, the bridge over the stream taken away and the street filled in. The entire valley of the Lost Brook soon disappeared and little trace of it is now to be found anywhere along its former course. The present form of this Hollow of the Hills, then, dates back to the time of our First Great Navigator. For we will assume that the great waters upon i 2 8 LORING PARK ASPECTS which Noah embarked with so much assurance were of the same general origin as those which laid down the glacial drift across the plateau upon which Minneapolis is built and which filled all this Lowry Hill valley rim- and-bank-full and to overflowing. The Loring Park of those mud and gravel banks, of the bowlders, and of the flot- sam and jetsam of the drift, was a sad sight and hopeless indeed in its desola- tion to one who did not trust God. Not a tree, not a bush, not a blade of grass nor a struggling weed was to be found anywhere in this valley, nothing but water, mud, gravel banks, and bowl- ders. But life never dies nor can it be buried permanently in any tomb, even with thousands of feet of ice and mud piled above it. It feels no need of hurry in rolling away the stone and in accomplishing its resurrection. Time, we are told, is one of the forms of the sense consciousness, a form through which we are obliged to run our experi- ences to make them fit us properly. LORING PARK ASPECTS 129 Life is not so circumscribed by cate- gories. Leisurely, and with the utmost freedom and deliberation of action, life took up the interrupted work in Loring Park and on the slopes of Lowry Hill, and the old manifestation, as old as God himself, began again. The seeds from the pyramids of the ice Pharaohs were ready to sprout when the condi- tions again became favorable. Birds from the southlands brought other needed seeds. Billions of benevolent germs drifted in with the summer winds and settled here to carry out their appointed tasks. The Spirit-that- Formed-This-Scene had its work well under way again in Loring Park before the ice and water were fairly gone. Life appears to be inherent every- where and ready to burst into manifes- tation when proper conditions are given, be they in a desert or in a human heart. Give the desert water and sun, and it blooms a garden. Give the heart love and a friend, and the valleys of dry bones are full of living men. Loring Park had everything life i 3 o LORING PARK ASPECTS could ask in the way of a stage for the unrollment of its great drama. And the scene shifters were now busy. If it were wilderness for which Moses was looking when he led the Children of Israel out of bondage, he could have found no more gloriously wild scene than Loring Park and Lowry Hill of- fered at the time of the Exodus. With poetic and constructive pleasure, we may dream of these long, unoccupied leisurely centuries that added their con- tributions of tree and soil. O ye green and happy woods, breathing like sleep! O safe and quiet population of these leafy places, dying brief deaths! O earth! O heavens, never uttering syllable to man! Is there no way to make known the meaning of your gentle silence, of your long, basking pleas- ures and brief pains? I know this Spirit that brooded over the face of Loring Park and Lowry Hill and that still broods, and I see and feel it at work and at rest everywhere. Often when walking through this liv- ing valley and climbing these gentle hills I find myself repeating the great lines that America's Homer wrote of LORING PARK ASPECTS 131 the Platte Canyon in Colorado, and I find them applicable as well to Loring Park, to the valley of the Lost Brook, and to the simple and foolish little hills of the Lowry Range : Spirit that formed this scene . . . this naked freshness, These formless wild arrays . . . / know thee, savage spirit -we have com- muned together . . . thou that revelest here - spirit that formed this scene. VI "DAD HOUGHTON" OF THE PLAZA WG. HOUGHTON, of the Plaza Hotel, Loring Park, strolled up and down Chestnut and Linden Ave- nues with two problems on his mind. While he was turning them over and back again, he presented to an observer the appearance of a man meditatively- regarding the smoky old houses that had been left by the receding tide when the city began to flow in a direction that its founders and pioneers had not foreseen. Cities have tricks of their own as to their ebbs and floods and the shrewdest of founders and owners are sometimes mistaken in their forecasts and are left so high and dry on the beach that even the spring tides fail to reach them. Mr. Houghton had been one of the luckiest operators in real estate and it had become his business -and his pleas- LORING PARK ASPECTS 133 ure as well -to study urban growths and trends. At the age of fifty, and perhaps half a decade or more beyond it, he had accumulated in this way money and property of various kinds -but he was lonesome. And he noticed that this unpleasant state of mind was growing on him even faster than was his prop- erty. Books, gentleman farming, or art occupied the thoughts of some of his confreres who had money put away and mind and time to let, but Mr. Hough- ton kept to his old ways. Real estate was his "game." And then one day, to the astonish- ment of his friends at the Plaza and on Lowry Hill, his interest shifted to the ladies of the Cinderella Opera Com- pany. Now, as he strolled over a back- water section of the city, his mind was divided between the charm of their fly- ing skirts and the possibilities of profit- able investment. There was an electric line coming into the city that must log- ically find its terminal somewhere in this section. For a moment, considera- tion of the certainty of this fact drove i 3 4 LORING PARK ASPECTS the feminine garment from his inner eye. But it returned flauntingly. And now, look who's here! It's a lady and her name is Fate! And see what she does to us with her shep- herdess' hook that comes around our necks and changes our courses, controls our wandering steps, and brings us into line with her purposes, if she has any, or with her whims if she hasn't, and all in the flipping of a card or the twink- ling of a -stocking. For as Mr. Houghton walked, divid- ing the swift mind between these and those widely diverse matters, lo a half burned playing card lying, face down, on the sidewalk at his feet! Evidently enough someone had tried to destroy the cards and one of the deck, half con- sumed, had found its way into the street to play its little part in the sport of chance for awhile longer. "Hm," mused its victim, "I'll just pick YOU up for luck. If you're black, nothing doing on either. If you're red, then it's diamonds for the investment and it's hearts for the girls!" LORING PARK ASPECTS 135 It was up to Fortune. The galled jade never winced. Mr. Houghton stooped over and picked up the charred half of the Jack of Hearts! Whether this luck was good or bad is as it may be. The facts remain to be collected into the story and the cards of the phi- losophers may go into the discard. Mr. Houghton crumbled off the charred portion of the pasteboard and put the half hearted card into his vest pocket on the top, right-hand side close to his bank book. "I've never had any fun at the Plaza or on Lowry Hill," he put the matter to himself, "and I'm going to run with this bunch of girls for awhile and see what there is in it." Long friendly in a business way with the manager of the house where the Opera Troupe was singing its way through a crowded week to full seats, Mr. Houghton had already found no great difficulty in passing the barriers and in meeting the girls in his easy way. Now as they saw more of him, they took to him naturally. In fact the 136 LORING PARK ASPECTS whole troupe, male as well as female, liked him, and, as he played no favor- ites and seemed to want to give every- body concerned a good time, they soon began calling him "Dad" and other af- fectionately familiar names. The re- sult was that "Dad" Houghton became the angel of the company and actually followed it on its tour of a number of the larger cities. Others might wonder and conjecture, but their amazement and amusement did not trouble "Dad." "They're nice little women," he said to a friend who had expressed his sur- prise at Dad's new interest in life, "and I like to slip one or another of them a wrist watch or something now and then, or take them out to dinner. It lightens the work for them and it's some fun for me. What's the harm of this big fam- ily of mine if nobody's hurt but the neighbors' feelings?" So, during one of these empty morn- ings of a week when the troupe was playing at the Metropolitan, Mr. Houghton found that his mind was recurring to his former pursuits. He LORING PARK ASPECTS 137 began again strolling about and ap- praising this section of Deacon Har- mon's old farm from which the city was obviously growing away. Among the houses that caught his wandering eye was a cottage or story-and-a-half house with ell, occupied by Mrs. Ma- hala Paull who was at this time en- gaged in sweeping the porch and looking out on the deserted street for someone to talk to. The front window of the house bore the legend "Rooms for Rent." "All the rooms taken?" ventured Mr. Houghton for the purpose of making talk with so quaint a relict of the street's vanished past. "Taken! I wish they were. Folks all seem to want to go out on Lowry Hill or towards the lakes. They won't stay down here." "A little out of the line of traffic, eh?" "We did think this was going to be one of the fine sections. Mr. Paull used to say that this place would make us well off if we could only hold on long 138 LORING PARK ASPECTS enough. But I guess not now -not in my day." "You can't tell how soon or when things will turn around in a growing city. What have you got for rooms?" "There's this setting room with bed room in behind and three rooms in the upstairs and two in the ell." "Taxes pretty steep, I reckon." "They're awful. Sometimes I think I'll have to let them have the place. I approached the assessor some four or five years ago and he done the best he could for me. He used to know T. B. Paull. Everybody used to call my hus- band the 'Postle Paull and me his 'Pistle. They would say, 'Here comes the 'Postle Paull and his 'Pistle,' but bless you, we didn't mind that." The old lady screwed up her face at the recollection of those happy days and then became sober again. "Here's our pictures in these old 1 da- 1 The two daguerrotypes reproduced in this chap- ter form the mystery of the book. Many years ago, because of a love for this beautiful old art, they were purchased for a song at a Salvation Army store in Minneapolis. All attempts to identify them have so LORING PARK ASPECTS 139 guerreotypes taken before we were married when Deacon Harmon lived up on the corner of Thirteenth Street and the Johnsons over by the swamp. Wasn't my husband a fine looking man? When he knew he was going to die with his disease, he began splitting up kindling wood for me. He had three rows piled as neat as wax across that cellar. It lasted me seven years." "You don't say so ! Well, Mrs. Paull, I am going to take that front room up stairs for a month and I rather think that I can fill the other rooms with the girls who are in the Opera Company at the theater if you don't mind the hours they keep. They have a few weeks' en- gagement in this town, I figure." "They're all right, ain't they?" "You know it! They are nice little women, about all of them — and work- ing hard for their pay. Of course there's the same mixture of good and far resulted in failure. The opinion of pioneers who have been consulted is that they were brought here from the East many years ago and that they represent persons who did not live in this vicinity. i 4 o LORING PARK ASPECTS bad in the theater business as there is in all lines of trade. We have to take them as they come." "I suppose so. Anyhow, it will be a great help." Dad Houghton talked with the girls at their late breakfast and before night he had four of them comfortably in- stalled in Mrs. Paull's rooms and the 'Pistle running about in a flutter of pleased excitement. The cheaper ho- tels over .the stores along Hennepin Avenue and Seventh Street that the girls were accustomed to patronize were dingy and noisy. Mrs. Paull's house was home-like and quiet in com- parison. "This is Elsie Maltravers, Mrs. Paull," Dad was doing the honors of the occasion. "Of course that isn't her name, and Tricksie McCall and the Misses Geraldine French and Helen Homans." "I'm glad to have you all," replied Mrs. Paull, "thanks to Mr. Hough- ton." "Dad's worst vice is always wanting LORING PARK ASPECTS 145 to be doing something for others," smiled Miss Maltravers at her hostess. "He wouldn't be happy if he wasn't. So he has found us this nice place." "He gave me this watch," broke in Miss Homans. "I'm almost thinking of leaving the profession for him." "You'd know it from his face," said Mrs. Paull, screwing up her eyes at them. "You're going pretty far," said Dad soberly but pleased nevertheless. "You better be getting settled in your rooms and if Mrs. Paull complains of you, you'll settle with me." "Isn't he hard?" sighed Miss Mal- travers. Mrs. Paull grew to like her cheerful, irresponsible charges so much and was so genuinely anxious to please and to do the little things for them, that they soon began calling her "Ma" and treating the place like home. Cheerful laugh- ter and snatches of song were common sounds about the lone Chestnut Avenue house and Dad Houghton felt that it was the life. 146 LORING PARK ASPECTS Then in a few days Elsie came home bringing Mrs. Albert, who was play- ing an "elderly part" at the Schubert. Elsie had been thrown in with this ex- cellent actress before and had struck up a friendship with the older woman that went, when they were separated, even to the point of correspondence. And that, with the ladies of the stage, is far. Mrs. Albert was one of those vet- erans of the stage whom popularity, good repute, and a large measure of public affection had followed through her long career into her Indian Sum- mer. Her work for the season would close with the week and Elsie had per- suaded her to occupy a room at Mrs. Paull's for a few weeks before return- ing to her summer home on the coast. "Mrs. Albert," said Elsie impress- ively, "permit me to present Mr. Houghton, the Angel of the House and the best friend of our company." "I am much touched," responded Dad gallantly, "but I've always sup- posed that angels were ladies." LORING PARK ASPECTS 147 "Perfect ladies," said Miss Mal- travers. "Not at all," said Mrs. Albert, "St. John's, you know, has excommunicated all the ladies from angelhood. It's only men who are angels now." "I'm sure of it," sighed Miss Ho- mans. Dad Houghton still held her hand and was regarding Mrs. Albert with a smile. "You were Etta Palmer and you were born in Farmington, Maine. I've always followed your career with in- terest. You don't remember me, but I was born there too." "My goodness, it's Willie Hough- ton," cried Mrs. Albert, shaking his hand vigorously. "I must have known you by a sort of inspiration, for nat- urally you have changed some in forty years." "I was twelve or fifteen years old when you left Farmington and went on the stage," said Dad. "We thought of you as one of the big girls then and I 148 LORING PARK ASPECTS looked upon you with great awe and distant worship." "Oh girls," exclaimed Miss Mal- travers excitedly, "isn't this just lovely. Here they are united again after all these years! "Something will come of this I am sure," said Miss Homans, and the other girls murmured in concert. Dad Houghton was somewhat flustrated by this personal and intimate view of the matter, but Mrs. Albert was too good an actress to show any perturbation. The talk went into reminiscence, the refuge of the aged. Mrs. Albert fitted easily into the life of the house and enjoyed it. The girls were inclined to continue a semi-hu- morous personal view of the situation. Mrs. Albert and Dad were thrown much together and struck up a great friendship of the comfortable arm- chair and long conversational order. Seeing this, the girls became too sud- denly quiet. "Mrs. Albert," said Dad one evening LORING PARK ASPECTS 149 as they sat before a little open fire, for the night was cool, "the girls think they have something on us." "Yes, the dear things, and it is a shame to disappoint them. The de- nouement will be a sad one for them." "It will indeed," grunted Dad sol- emnly. "They have been seeing aged ro- mance and hearing its sighing in this house ever since they discovered that I remembered you as a boy. But there is one thing more valuable to us now even than romance -'at our age,' to quote. And you know what that is as well as I do." "It is Human Freedom," said Dad, as dramatically as he was able to put it over with chest expanded and one arm aloft in the best Edwin Booth tra- dition. But the inspiration faded at once. "I do hope when I come to die," murmured Mrs. Albert unmoved, as she regarded the cheerful blaze in the grate, "that there will be a little open 150 LORING PARK ASPECTS fire in the room. And I trust that you will not say that you hope that I may not go where there is a greater one." "I won't," replied Dad, "but it is too bad to disappoint the girls, isn't it?" "No, I don't think so," bridled Mrs. Albert. "They had no right to assume anything. I don't just like it." Dad was thoughtful for several mo- ments, gazing at the fire. "We might, if you'll excuse the ex- pression, put something across that might surprise them." Mrs. Albert looked up quickly. "Just what do you mean?" "Perhaps," said Dad thoughtfully, "you might call it a light society com- edy with you and me in the stellar roles." "Society comedy is my forte," said the mature actress. "My plot then is something like this," continued Dad, developing it in his mind as he went along, "though we'll have to rely on you to get in the correct touches and the-the-ATMOS- LORING PARK ASPECTS 151 PHERE. (Dad listened to his own star word with evident pride.) I purpose setting the stage for the comedy they are expecting to see and then giving the play, but with the plot left out. Do you follow me?" "Suppose you unwind it a little fur- ther," smiled the actress. "Well," continued Dad, "the play opens with us giving, rather ostenta- tiously, a little family dinner here at this house, if we can get Mrs. Paull in on that, and I think we can. Everybody is invited. The assumption will be strong in the minds of these dear little busybodies that there is something do- ing then for sure." "I follow you. They will be looking for An Announcement." "They will. And they will be all ready with their 'I-knew-it-all-the- times,' their 'I-suspected-its,' their Ve-saw-it-from-the-very-firsts' and all the rest of them -and nothing will de- velop. It will be interesting to watch their faces through it all as the play goes on with Hamlet off somewhere 152 LORING PARK ASPECTS fishing or nursing his problems in the seclusion of a bench in Loring Park." "Mr. Houghton," exclaimed the act- ress, "you have missed your vocation. You should really give us something to put on. I am old-fashioned now, I sup- pose, but I do think that the stage needs these quiet society comedies. We are too Noisymoving. I think that your idea in this case anyhow is de- lightful and workable. "It looks like an idea to me," said Dad, swollen with the pride of the amateur playright who has deposited his first egg. "We must get Mrs. Paull into it." The arrangements were easily made with the cheerful landlady. Mrs. Paull was enjoying the life like a girl. Chest- nut Avenue had not been so full of life since the seventies. "I will provide the materials for the feast," said Dad after he had inter- viewed Mrs. Paull, "and you girls may cook 'em up and frame up the table to your own taste. Get what extras you need and leave the expense to me." LORING PARK ASPECTS 153 And so on the day of the great event, Dad came riding up to the house on the grocery delivery wagon much larger than life and with a brace of young but massive turkeys, several lobsters from Shiek's, bunches of asparagus, heads of lettuce, young onions, boxes of straw- berries, bottles of olive oil, and a few other necessities that he had happened to get an eye upon. "Land sakes!" exclaimed the aston- ished Mrs. Paull, peering over her glasses at the array upon the kitchen table. Dad Houghton was now in his ele- ment. On the back porch he "shucked the lobsters" for the salad and sniffed appreciatively at the odors of roasting turkey that came through the windows of the busy kitchen. "Land sakes!" said Mrs. Paull again, "this will overwhelm the girls." "I hope so," said Dad, "there's grow- ing up here a square meal that is cal- culated to satisfy the most worldly- minded." "The girls will be going out to 154 LORING PARK ASPECTS breakfast about now," and the land- lady. "Trifling time away in bed all morning! I never could do that if I was out all hours. I suppose now- here comes Elsie. Good mornin', Miss Maltravers." The little actress smiled in at the door in passing. The others drifted leisurely down. "Oh how good you smell!" "I dunno about dishes," observed Mrs. Paull, somewhat perturbed, "but I guess, somehow-" "If the dishes fail, some of us will have to double up, that's all," said Dad. "They're used to it, ain't you girls? And they are willing to do most any- thing for a real home meal, huh?" The eventful dinner hour came and started itself off in the jolliest manner. Little snatches of song broke in on it. Dad told his best stories. Miss Ho- mans related her troubles with a recent admirer who had sent her flowers and had haunted the stage door in the alley off Fourth Street. LORING PARK ASPECTS 155 "I told him to chase himself/' said the lady, "but he said he had a rheu- matic knee." Miss Homans had delightful red hair of the shade that artists rave about and story writers call "Titian." "I think it's wonderful," sighed Elsie when the conversation "switched" to Miss Homans' locks -such a verb is pardonable in this connection surely. "It's just red hair and that is all that there is about it," protested Miss Ho- mans. "It's not nearly so wonderful as yours." Miss Maltravers had the sort of red hair that goes invariably with a clear complexion but which is not always ap- preciated by its owner. "As for that," broke in Dad, mis- chievously, "you can secure either of them at Circler's. Miss Homans' is a dollar and seventy-five a bottle and I don't just know what Miss Maltravers' comes to now. But it's not prohibi- tive." "Mine is the most expensive of all," 156 LORING PARK ASPECTS sighed Mrs. Albert, "for time is money and it takes sixty years to produce my kind." Mrs. Paull told the story of her lucky penny and affirmed that she never could doubt it again. Attempts were made to borrow it, but she refused all demands. The girls now began looking expect- antly at their host and hostess. Mrs. Albert wore a half humorous and a self-conscious look and now and then she simpered a little and bridled per- ceptibly with that exquisite art that has delighted us for so long. Dad had an important and impressive cast of coun- tenance as of a man with a weighty secret on his mind. Then when the chairs were pushed back, Dad arose impressively, cleared his throat, used his handkerchief mild- ly, seemed to find his hands somewhat in the way, finally put them in his pockets and to a very attentive circle of listeners he began : "Ladies and gentlemen -the latter LORING PARK ASPECTS 157 being myself -I have something of an announcement to make- (Thrills, visible and evident!) that I suppose, will be something of a surprise to you." "Not a bit of it!" This interruption was from Miss Maltravers. "No? Then I have not kept my secret as well as I thought. But, how- ever, I will go on. I have something of an announcement to make, seeing that our happy home here is to be brok- en up, something of my own plans that may be of interest to my dear girls here and to Mrs. Albert as well-" "Oh, Dad, no surprise to her I am sure." This from Miss Homans. "I am not so sure of that, my girl. Well, as I was saying when interrupted, I have an announcement to make re- garding my own activities this summer which I hope you or some of you will have an interest in when we may hope to meet again, if the Cinderella Opera Company holds together- and I be- lieve it will. Hm. Let me see, where 158 LORING PARK ASPECTS was I ? Oh yes, I remember. Well, my announcement is that I propose this summer devoting some time to the composing of a play- a sort of light comedy in which I hope you or some of you will possibly have parts when it is presented on the boards. We have been so long together this season that I felt sure you would be interested in my little disclosure even if you have no confidence in my ability to put it over. That's about it, I guess. God bless you all and give you jolly times this sum- mer and here's to our meeting again next season." Dad raised his glass of water and looked out composedly on the disap- pointment of the ladies' small circle. "You don't think I can do it, ha?" "Oh, oh yes, surely you can!" "No doubt about it at all." "I'm sure you can!" These were some of the cries that arose upon the turkey-tainted air. Mrs. Albert smiled composedly and Dad was quite complaisant as the sub- ject was tossed to and fro. "I was hoping for something else, LORING PARK ASPECTS 159 though," sighed Miss Maltravers fin- ally. The others murmured. So the dinner broke up in happy con- fusion and many hands made light work of what Mrs. Paull called "the mess." The girls had gone and the house was rather lonesome. Mrs. Albert was going tomorrow and Dad was figuring on getting back to his lonesome rooms in the Plaza and to the garish lights of Loring Park just as soon as he could make up his mind on the matter of ad- vising Mrs. Paull about her real estate in which he had been taking an inter- est. At least that was the excuse he now gave for staying on. Dad and Mrs. Albert were sitting before the open grate again in which burned the merest apology for a sum- mer fire "to take off the dampness of the house." "It all comes to ashes at last," mused Mrs. Albert not so uncheerfully as the remark sounds in print. "Yes," said Dad, "and the dust i6o LORING PARK ASPECTS thrown in. They always go together in books, you know. The firm of Dust & Ashes is an old and respectable house and it's as sound as the First and Se- curity National Bank." "Those poor girls/' sighed Mrs. Al- bert. "I was rather sorry for them after all. They had their minds simply set on us." "I know it," replied Mr. Houghton. "It was almost wrong for us to do it, but they brought it on themselves." There was a pause while the fire burned. "Mrs. Albert," resumed Dad meditatively, "what do you think of re- marriage anyhow?" "Now," said the fine actress, "if you're honest and not joking, I will tell you freely that it has always stood to me as the Great Temptation. But I have had the sense to keep the house of my heart for twenty-five years under lock and key- and the key thrown away." Dad sighed a real estate sigh. "You're right, of course. With us who have been married, the thing's LORING PARK ASPECTS 161 done. But, as you say, it's a tempta- tion. Time gets lonesome." "Deliver us from temptation," said Mrs. Albert piously. "There are worse things than lonesomeness." "Mrs. Albert," mused Dad, knock- ing a bit of the burning wood with the poker, "supposing you should find that lost key some time and should open up the house again, which do you suppose would come out- the lady or the tiger?" Mrs. Albert dropped a stitch and carefully picked it up again before re- plying. Then she drew the yarn out at arm's length to loosen it from the ball. "I wonder!" VII CAMPING OUT IN HEAVEN THE difficult question, "Why should there be anything anywhere," pro- pounded, I believe, by William James in a moment of philosophical humor, is one of the first to challenge us on the surface when we are strolling in Lor- ing Park. Why should there be any- thing here, or why should there be any- thing anywhere? It is no small prob- lem. Then, too, here is all this noble and satisfying beauty, with delightful slopes of lawn wooded hills, forest glades, sheets of silent water mirror- ing the still trees by day and the quieter stars by night. Is all this merely on the surface? Is there no hidden mean- ing to it all, no underlying and more permanent reality? Many years ago I consulted a sup- LORING PARK ASPECTS 163 posedly learned man on this matter. He had an easy answer when he finally discovered the problem that was worry- ing the immature mind of the question- er? It was all merely Nature. It just happened that there was something somewhere. He found it just as easy to have something as to have nothing. Something simply always was -that was all there was to it and nothing to worry about either. I was contented with this solution at first but in time I became dissatisfied with it. Why should there be any Na- ture, whatever it was? Why should it just happen that there was something where one naturally might have expect- ed to find nothing? In studying the ways in which the substances that make up the materials of this something settle into form, or crystallize, if left to themselves, it is found that they take these remarkable geometrical shapes in accordance with mathematical law. There is no chance about it, no "just happening." Matter is all shot through and through with 164 LORING PARK ASPECTS law, is governed by law and is held by law everywhere. The simplest con- sideration of crystallography shows that matter, by the operation of molecular attraction, assumes definite structure with forms of solids enclosed by plane surfaces arranged according to the laws of mathematics. How can this as- tounding thing just happen? Here seems to be plain enough evidence of the workings of infinite mathematical Mind, and so tremendous a Mind does it appear to be from its works that I do not hesitate to allow it the compli- ment of the capital letter. In Loring Park you are treading on forces, laws, mathematics, and formulas with ev- ery careless step, and you are simply compelled to say "God." And then, there is life in the park too, more won- derful and mysterious, even, than the mathematical planes bounding crys- tals -and much more interesting and fascinating. For this little life that we see with our eyes and feel in our breasts may well be, in some way, the LORING PARK ASPECTS 165 reflection of the great Life of the Uni- verse. So the first thing you may say to yourself, if so disposed, when you walk in Loring Park in the cool of the day, is -"God." It is all God, every tree and shrub is a burning bush, burning with the living fire, and the place is Holy Ground. Other persons by their natural and spontaneous abilities have even less difficulty in finding God in Loring Park. I once asked a wise woman, trying in my childish way to puzzle her and, incidentaly, to show a cer- tain fascinating and superior brillian- cy of mind, "Why should there be any- thing here?" and she declared at once and offhand, that there wasn't -not a thing here, not a thing anywhere, only just God. "Then," I countered, somewhat non- plussed and a little piqued, "What is Loring Park?" And, as one who had been there from the first and who was in the secret of all its secrets, she ex- 1 66 LORING PARK ASPECTS plained that Loring Park was just made up of laws, forces, life, beauty, truth, love, and what-nots of similar variety. The outside of it that we saw with our eyes was phenomenal merely, the result of our material sensory ap- paratus. If we saw it as it really is, we should see infinite Life, infinite Beau- ty, infinite Power, infinite Law, and in- finite Love. Perhaps she is half right. These things seem to be more necessary to happiness as we appear to advance in years, and they seem to be lying around in Loring Park in infinite abundance. That simple philosopher Kant, by an irreverent American referred to as the Koenigsberg Bantam, and whose books we doubtless carry in our pockets to read in our leisure moments on the street cars that run through the Loring Park valley, would have delighted in the assertion that we do not see Loring Park as it is in itself, but under the guise of appearances which the sense organs unavoidably impose. The in- habiters of some of the planets may LORING PARK ASPECTS 167 well see their Loring Parks quite oth- erwise from the way in which we see our's. Outside Nature "exists only for sense beings. The worlds of sense may be very different according to the dif- ferences of sense perceptions in various world beholders while the world of un- derstanding which lies at the founda- tion remains always the same." The outside Loring Park, then, with the rest of the sense world, is, in this philosophy, "nothing more than a mere appearance, ... a picture which hovers before our present modes of knowing and, like a dream, has no real- ity in itself." But even granting for a moment that all these things are so, yet there re- mains the great phenomenon, the sen- sory illusion, the splendid stage setting of Loring Park as we see it in our im- perfect way. What romances and stories it has told ! What tragedies and dramas of life and death have played themselves out on its stage! What a theater it offers for splendid and im- mortal adventure! 168 LORING PARK ASPECTS And what wonderful adventurers we all are! Every living person, if he has mind enough to dramatize ordinary events or to estimate them properly when they are unrolled before him and while he unrolls with them, is living a life of most extraordinary adventure. All possibilities lie in the way of one who is merely crossing the Loring Park valley. In the early nineties I was a great wanderer within that small section of the face of the earth known to Hud- son's "Dictionary of Minneapolis" as "the city limits." No portion of it held greater charm than the rim of hills be- ginning west of Bryn Mawr and run- ning easterly till they lose themselves in the prairies east and south of the former W. D. Washburn residence. The first breach in this range of hills was made when the Lowry bluff was cut down to allow Hennepin Avenue to run through. The first railroad made use of the natural opening west of the Lowry hill. Last of all came the Si o U < LORING PARK ASPECTS 171 cutting through of the Bryn Mawr hill to allow Superior Avenue a direct route to Minnetonka. One unoccupied Sunday in those years when the section where Superior Avenue leaves the valley was as wild a country as it was when Joseph S. Johnson cultivated the land of his Lor- ing Park farm, I wandered up into these "Little Hills" which, I believe, is the translation of the words "Bryn Mawr," and found, squatting in a little opening in the woods on the hillside looking out over the valley, a small colony of campers from the city. When I close my eyes now, the sunshine of those days all comes flooding back again, with the reds and browns of the sumacs, the black boles of the oak trees, and the rich greens of field and foli- age -and I am standing looking down into Camp Comfort again. You would look for the site today in vain. The gravel man has dug the entire hill and valley away and used the material for the roofs of buildings. The sand of "the eternal hills" has been combined 172 LORING PARK ASPECTS with the cement of commerce for vari- ous other serviceable purposes. Camp Comfort is a memory only, but I know on what screen all that old glory of sunlight and summer, that wild beat- ing of wind and rain, those long nights of leafy murmur and of insect orches- tration still are shown. I soon formed a real and living ac- quaintance with the three occupants of the little tent in the hills and became a constant night and day visitor. This acquaintance grew and, ripened until I pitched my tent there for weeks at a time and took a living part in the fight for life that made these hills for the campers a stern and rather terrible bat- tle-ground. But it is all past now. The battle was lost and won. All, all are gone, the old familiar faces -and evert the eternal hills are gone. After living on.a bit of land for some time, one may discover much of inter- est about it. That all the land of these hills had been "laid out" into city lots and sold to customers here, there, and LORING PARK ASPECTS 173 everywhere, neither we who were en- camped here, nor the birds, the flowers, the stones, and the trees for a moment suspected. A day came at length that revealed the facts. A gentle and cul- tured w 4 oman from the East wandered into the camp looking for the corner of two uninhabited streets that appeared on the map*, but which were not appar- ent on earth. Some years before, she had purchased, "sight unseen" as the boys once said when swapping jack- knives, a lot of land in this vicinity. Here was the whole wide world spread out before us, and she claimed to hold fifty unincumbered front feet of it as her own personal property, her very own! We knew in a general way where the streets should have run if there had been any, and we led her to the spot. At the sight of the "impenetrable for- est," the wind flowers, the trilliums, and the undisturbed surface of the planet generally, she threw up both hands and spoke in milder terms than I should have done of the perfidy of man and 174 LORING PARK ASPECTS especially of that section of mankind engaged in the real estate business. She had paid one thousand, two hundred dollars for fifty front feet of this forest which the map showed to be not so far distant from the geographical center of the city. The real estate man (and he was a "personal friend") in negotiating the sale of the land to his distant cus- tomer, had neglected to mention the railroad tracks and other minor matters of a similar nature tending to keep pop- ulation at a distance. Among the mysterious things that caught our attention in this little open- ing in the woods were two abandoned and almost overgrown excavations that had the appearance of old basements of long forgotten houses. We were deeply interested in the discovery and it was some time before we ascertained that we were camping in the front- yard, or back-yard, or door-yard, or barn-yard of the old Michael Hallo- ran claim. Four brothers, Michael, Patrick, LORING PARK ASPECTS 175 John, and Thomas Halloran, came from County Cork, Ireland, in the fif- ties and took up land from the govern- ment around the Lake of the Isles, west of the present Cedar Lake Road ad- joining Bryn Mawr and in North Min- neapolis. Their descendants still live here, some of them on the old claims. The struggles and triumphs of their sturdy forbears would fill a book. It is a family record that some of these descendants should put down on paper while the facts and traditions are still available. One dead of night, lying half asleep in the white tent through which the moonlight filtered dimly, I listened in some trepidation to a strange halting approach, now silent, now renewed, like the hesitant movements of some ancient ghost of the place. It ad- vanced, stopped, came on, halted, then advanced again till it reached the tent. Then all was silent. The bull terrier gave hoarse growls at intervals, and then a gruff half bark or two. He 176 LORING PARK ASPECTS trembled violently, shaking the floor of the tent perceptibly, but he did not of- fer to go out and he refused to accept our advice to that end. As nothing more came of the mysterious visitor, we soon dropped to sleep again. In the morning I noticed with some distaste that an ancient reptile of a tur- tle had settled himself comfortably un- der the tent in the wet sand in which we had buried the jar of butter to keep it cool. This grateful coldness was ap- preciated by the turtle as well as by the butter. In some strange way, occult to us, he had detected this cool spot from a distance and had come to dem- onstrate the reason for his strange in- ner confidence. That is turtle "faith." If only our own human faith in things unseen may obtain a parallel demon- stration! We were unreasonably disturbed by the thought of this innocent reptile crouched beside the family butter no matter how carefully it was covered, and we finally collected him in a bas- ket and bore him far away. But he LORING PARK ASPECTS 177 returned. It became necessary, final- ly, to transport him as far as Cedar Lake and there he was content to re- main. A solemn toad went through the same performance and had to be car- ried a long distance away in order to discourage his inevitable return. The only treetoad I ever saw made his home with us between the tent and the fly and sang his heart out for our benefit. He was a strange and shy creature, but we felt that rapture must be at the heart of him and he was a welcome boarder. A splendid girl on horseback one afternoon galloped up the Cedar Lake Road, came across the fields, and tied her horse to a tree on the hilltop. Be- fore long the leading man in the un- written drama appeared on the scene. They met as lovers and talked long and earnestly together at the edge of the woods. And then she rode away across the field, waving back to him a farewell with her long, streaming veil. He 178 LORING PARK ASPECTS stood and watched her. We could see them through the screen of the boles of the trees. Many a romance we wove from this delightful incident. The reality could be no more fascinating than our per- haps more dramatically perfect tragi- comedies of life built on its slight foundation. But though the glorious summers came and went at Camp Comfort and we came and went with them like the birds, and though this university of the hills was teaching us many things, not the least among them the strange phe- nomenon that the flowers of love often blossom their sweetest on the edges of graves, nevertheless, all was not going well at Camp Comfort. "How can you possibly know of things so palpably in the future," I asked the Lady of the Hills as we sat for long stretches of hours on the brow of the little mountain, looking out over the skyline of the city and beyond it LORING PARK ASPECTS 179 into distant spaces and fast coming days. One might as well have asked the migrating bird, born that summer, of the monitions in its little heart of the certainty of the coming winter. So the perfect days unrolled them- selves in our little valley until, one ear- ly autumn day, a bird flew in at the tent opening, fluttered a moment, and flew away. And not long after that omen, it became apparent to us all that "the latest strife was lost and all was done with." After the others had gone, I re- mained alone in the hills all of that quiet Sunday afternoon until evening. The night came on and the lonesome- ness became so profound that, full of heaviness, I wandered down through the glen towards the Bryn Mawr val- ley. Coming out of the woods, I looked across this Hollow of the Hills along the dusk of the north side of the Lowry range, with its friendly stars of houselights among the trees, and there, 180 LORING PARK ASPECTS on the far eastern horizon line of the valley, shone out the Cross of Light on the top of the spire of the Wesley Church at the corner of First Avenue south and Grant Street, far away but very hopeful and bright. It hung towering not only o'er the wrecks of time in the Loring Park valley, but over the living and ever renewed crea- tions of the mysterious life that is all the time making all things all over new again and better than they have been before. So I have come to regard this dear valley in another and a far different light from the things that seem to be "passing away." If the material ap- pearance before our eyes, the setting and the shifting of the scenery for our little tragi-comedies of life and death, is so beautiful, what must be the real- ity back of it all when the play is over and the audience has gone home? If Loring Park is separated by "a discrete degree" from the unknown reality of itself, the "doctrine of correspondence" that goes with these degrees gives us LORING PARK ASPECTS 181 many hints of an underlying Loring Park which might easily furnish, for one who drops his sense consciousness only to exchange it for a deeper pene- tration and perception, as satisfactory a heaven as any of which we may con- ceive. The original meaning of the word "paradise" is "park." With mortal and fading eyes we look out upon Lor- ing Park, but if we look through it and a little deeper, or perhaps higher, we may well be directing our unanxious gaze across the very Plains of the Blessed. Through this long night of Time, we catch glimpses of "edges" and "bordering lights." LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 016 085 293 8