JIlIBRARY OF CONGRESS J! pt or '# : ^ UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. | CC<.AM2 B^ mBL^BBii JBLfmSSSs cJ^CXSCSCjCSCj^ lC^ I For Sale, by the Publisher of this Work, ELEGANT MINIATURE EDITIONS OF THE FOLLOWING WORKS. (Price One Dollar.) R O K E B Y, A POEM— By Walter Scott, Esq. (Price 4 Dollars 50 Cents in boards) SCOTT'S POETICAL WORKS, Five Volwnes — "jjith Plates. (Price 624: Cents in boards.) POETICAL YAGARIES: Including THE LADY OF THE WRECK, and BROAD GRINS. By George Cobnan the Totcnger. (Price 1 Dollar, in boards) BUTLER'S HUDIBRAS. (Price 75 Cents in boards) THOMSON'S SEASONS. (Pnce 75 Cents in boards) LETTERS OF THE LATE LORD LYTTLETON. (Price 50 Cents i?i boards) METRICAL TALES; AND OTHER POEMS. By Robert Soiithey. (Price 37 i Cents.) THE BANKS OF THE WYE— A POEM. By Robert BJoonfield. (Price 1 Dollar in boards) THE ISLE OF PALMS; AJ^D' OTHER POEMS, By J. Wflson, of St. John's College, Oxfoixl. (Price 1 Dollar in boards) LIBER FACETIARUM, Being a Collection of Curious and Interesting" Anecrlotes. JUST PUBLISHED, C Price 1 Dollar, in boards J HERIOT'S TRAVELS IN CANADA, " We turned to the volume which professes to give very ample information concerning such a country as this, with no ordinary degree of interest. The author possessed considerable advanta- ges for the execution of his task; having resided in the country for several years in an official situation; and, being endowed with a talent for drawing, and consequently with habits of obser- ving and admiring the picturesque scenery of natiu-e. This vo- lume contains much less than we desired, or, perhaps expected, of original matter; but, it presents us with at least, a tolerable summary of the present state of knowledge, enriched with some additional facts respecting the British possessions in Canada. His apparent respect for religious truth, desei-ves honourable mention; his remarks generally indicate a sensible and benevo- lent mind. His descriptions, and delineations, are tolerably, though not always minutely accurate." Eclectic Review. *' Mr. Heriot has divided his work into two parts. The first contains the result of his personal observations on the picturesque scenery of the St. Lawrence; to this he has added some account of the climate, productions, and commerce of the counti-y: the manners and characters of the inhabitants of the domiciliated In- dians, and of those tribes which occupy or frequent situations oa the borders of the great lakes. This part is distinguished by a geogi aphical minuteness, which one rarely finds in a book of Tra- vels; no mountain raises its head unnoticed, every bend of the river is marked, every enlargement and conti'action measured. On the whole, we certainly think respectably of Mr. Heriot's Work: a considerable portion of the matter it contains is collect- ed from extraneous sources, some of them very accessible and well known; still, however, a mass of information is presented to the reader, which will hardly fail to interest and amuse him." Aikin's Review. " Another work of merit will be found in Mr. Heriot's * Tra- vels through the Canadas;' a residence in which, for a series of years, afforded the author opportunities, not only of entering mi- nutely into the civil and-domestic history of the provinces, but of viewing nature in her wildest forms, and of witnessing the modes of life pursued by many of the tribes which are so ^numerously scattered through the extensive regions of America. *' Altogether we deem it one of the most curious publications that has of late appeai-ed.'* Monthly Magazine. TRAVELS THROUGH THE CANADAS, CONTAINING A DESCRIPTION OF THE PICTURESQUE SCENERY ON SOME OF THE RIVERS AND LAKE3; with an account of the PRODUCTIOJVS, COMMERCE, A^B IJYffJBlTJJSTTS OF THOSE PROVIJ\rCES. y BY GEORGE HERIOT, ESQ. Depicty Post Master General of British North America. PHILADELPmA: PUBLISHED BY M. Gi^'IRJE.Y NO. 122, MARKET STREET. 1813. U6 ,H54 Si • PREFACE. The first part of the following work was writ- ten with the design of conveying an idea of some of the picturesque scenery of the Saint Law- rence, at once the largest and most wonderful body of fresh waters on this globe. Numbers of tributary streams, some of which are of immense magnitude, disembogue them- selves into this gigantic flood, which, from its principal source, Lake Superior, to its junction with the ocean, parts with none of its waters, but rolls thither all that it receives. The restless impetuosity of many of these streams has furrowed up the surface of the land, and produced objects of stupendous grandeur. Several of these awful and sublime operations of nature, have hitherto been visited by a small por- tion only of civilized men. Her most wild fea- tures, her most striking and attractive charms, are frequently concealed in the midst of unfre- quented deserts. A2 VIII CONTENTS. employed in the commerce: produce of that branch. Island of Newibundland: Eskimaux,the only natives seen there: account of that race of men. Original discovery of Newfoundland: har- bour of Saint John: scaffolds: the town: sterility of soil: uninviting climate: colonization prohibited: importance in a political view: islands of ice: Saint Pierre and Miquelon: Cape Breton. 27 CHAPTER III. Gulph of Saint Lawrence, Prince Edward's is- land. Bird isles. Chaleur's bay: its commerce, and that of Gaspe: state of agriculture: route to the capital: perforated rock: the Ganet: mouth of the great river: Anticostl: wild as- pect presented by the coasts on either side the river. River Saguenay: waterfall: boldness of shores: immense depth: king's posts: account of the mountaineers; Malbay: Coudres. Saint Paul's bay: Camourasca: Island of Orleans. 48 CHAPTER IV. Quebec: description of that city: romantic situa- tion: natural strength: religious orders, and their establishments: ship-building: interesting scene displayed from point Levi: extensive and grand landscape presented from the heights to the westward of the garrison. River Mont- morenci: natural steps: sublime waterfall: basin, and its strata: description of the fall as seen from the coast of the Saint Lawrence. 74. CONTENTS, IX CHAPTER V. Jeune Lorette: domiciliated natives: mode of dancing. The Saint Charles: cascades on that river. The Chaudiere: description of its fall: appearance in winter. Island of Orleans: views from thence: soil. North coast of the Saint Lawrence, Cape Tourment. River Saint Anne: its waterfalls: lower fall described. La Puce: romantic falls of that little river: various land- scapes. Lake Saint Charles: picturesque com- binations. 92 CHAPTER VI. Country to the westward of Quebec. Lake Cal- viere. The Jacques Cartier : romantic scenery which it displays. Town of three rivers. Lake Saint Peter. Town of William Henry. River Chambly. Island of Montreal: religious or- ders, and their establishments: view from the summit of the mountain. Indian village of the Sault Saint Louis: La Chine: Lake St. Louis: cascades: rapids of the Cedars: of the coteau Du Lac: Lake Saint Francis: cascades of the Long Sault: multitude of isles. 1Q9 CHAPTER YII. Description of Kingston in Upper Canada: lake Ontario: bay of Quinte: excellence of its soil: X CONTENTS. Toronto, or York, the capital: Burlington bay: river Onondago: romantic cascades: Genesee river: waterfall: forts and town of Niagara: su- perior advantages enjoyed by Settlers on the banks of the Saint Lawrence: rapid increase of population, and prosperous state of the pro- vince: Queenstown: the whirlpool: stupen- dous majesty of the falls of Niagara: cascades: village of Chippawa. 142 CHAPTER VIII. Sublime subject of the falls further pursued. Lake Erie: Amherstburg: the Detroit: Sandwich: old town of Detroit: beauty and fertility of the country. River and lake of St. Claire: La Tranche, or Thames: settlements on its borders. Lake Huron: Bay of Thunder: Michilimakinac: Lake Michigan: Green Bay: inhabitants: Saint Joseph: cascades of Saint Mary. Address of the Indians: ancient Hurons, and other native Tribes. Lake Superior: remarkable transpa- rency of its waters: grand portage; new estab- lishment on the Kamanistigua. 181 CHAPTER IX. Commerce of Canada: fur trade: paper money: seigneuries: rights of their proprietors: mode- rate appointments of colonial officers: mal-admi- nistration of finance during the French govern- ment: state of Canada at its conquest: progres- CONTENTS. XI sive improvement: revenue: yearly equipment and transport in the fur trade: voyageurs: har- diness and mode of life: difficulties of naviga- tion on the Outaouas river: romantic waterfalls: portages. 220 CHAPTER X. Former state of colonial government. Introduc- tion of the criminal code of England. Quebec Bill. New constitution: sketch of that system. Division of Canada into two provinces; and of these into counties: advantages of Canadian settlers: state of society: manners: character of the habitants, or landholders: mode of clearing- lands: acquisition of property: seigneuries: pro- duce of soils: agriculture. Upper Canada: cold, and causes of its long domination: travelling in f winter: roads: houses. 256 TRAVELS, 'ith black lava, af- fording unquestionable indications of the opera- tion of a volcano, and of its more elevated parts having subsided into the centre of the mountain. There are two hills placed in the bottom of the valley^ whose craters are yet open, although al- most overgrown by shrubs. 22 THE AZORES. The lower parts of the island are very fertile, and in a state of high cultivation. The soil in general consists of decomposed pumice-stone, which is easily worked ; and it usually yields t^vQ crops every year. A vegetable called tr-emosa, or blue lupin, sup- plies the deficiency of animal manure. It is sown on the fields Vvith the first rains m September, and from the effects of moisture and warmth, growing to a very rank state. About the end of November it is mowed down, left for a few days to fiag, and is afterwards plowed into the ground. Oranges and lemons abound throughout the country. The first are of an excellent quality^ ripen earlier than those produced in Portu- gal, and are brought sooner to market. The best kind of orange is raised by layers. Water me- lons grow abundantly in the fields. The farms produce wheat, Indian corn, and calavances. Vines are also cultivated on tracts of black lava bordering on the sea coast ; but their juice is thin and feeble, soon acquiring an acid taste. The convents and other religious establish- ments, placed in various situations along the bor- ders of the island, and constructed of a white cc* loured stone, produce a pleasing eflect, when viewed from the sea. The aromatic herbs, trees, and fruits, perfume the atmosphere with their sweets : and the breeze tiius impregnated, becomesj when blowing from THE AZORES. 25 the land, highly grateful to the traveller in sailing along tlie shore. After having been three weeks at sea, we became sensibly impressed by its en- livening influence, which suggested to recollec- tion the following lines in Buchanan's Ode to May : *' Talis beatis incubit insulis, *' Aurse felicis perpetuus tepor; *' Et nesciis campis senectie *' Difficilis, quserulique niorbi.'* The island of Pico, from the superior altitude of one of its mountains, is the most remarkable of all the Azores. From the village of Guindaste to the summit of the peak, the distance is stated to be nine miles. The road passes through a wild, rugged, and dif- ficult country, which is entirely covered \^ ith brushwood. When, at seven o'clock in the morning, we arrived at the skirts of the mountain, which form the region of the clouds, the wind be- came extremely cold, attended by a thick mist;, the thermometer failing to forty-eight degrees, and at eight o'clock to forty- seven. In alluding to the degrees of cold, 1 must be understood to speak relatively, and only with respect to its iniiu- ence on the human frame, which a sudden change of twenty-two degrees of temperature cannot fail to auect. About ten we arrived at the boundary of the ancient crater : and the sun then acquirijig power, the thermometer rose to forty -eight de- 24 'fHE AZORES. grces. This appears to have been more than a mile in circumference. The southern and wes- tern boundaries yet remain : but those of the north and east have given way, and have tum- bled down the side of the mountain* In the cen- tre of the old crater, a cone of three hundred feet in perpendicular height is thrown up, on the sum- mit of whicli is the present mouth. The ascent of this is very steep and difficult : and it contains several apertures from which smoke is emitted. It is formed of a crust of lava, of the consistence of iron that has once been in a state of fusion. At the hour of half past ten we gained the top of the peak, which is singularly sharp and pointed; being about seven paces in length, and about five in breadth. The crater is on the north side, and below the summit, is about twenty paces in dia- meter, and is continually emitting smoke. It is almost filled with burnt rocks. From hence several of the neighbouring islands are presented to the viev/- Pico, seen from the peak, exhibits an appearance no less singular than romantic : the eastern part rises into a nar- row ndge, along which are many ancient volca- iios w^iich have long ceased to emit smoke, and several of whose craters are now almost conceal- ed by woods which have sprung up around them. The basis of the peak presents likewise some re- mains of smaller voicanos, whohe fires are now ex- tinguished. Tne last ei uption oi the peak , V; iiich T^E AZORES. 2.^ happened in 1718, burst forth from its side, and destroyed a great part of the viiieyards. It is on elevated situations hke this, that is felt t/iat influence which the vast and unbounded thea- tre, at once laid open to contemplation, is capa- ble of exciting, — Those inspirations of nature, so eloquent and so animated— ^that attractive impulse which attunes the soul to harmony with her w^orks—- -that distinctive character ^^hich the Crea- tor hath imprinted on the heart— innate traces of which peculiar minds are delighted in feeling, amid the rude and sublime masses produced by explosions of the globe, or amid the less stupen- dous ruins of the monuments of human grandeur. The whole of the lower grounds of this island are planted with vines ; and, having been entire- ly covered with black lava, the labour in digging and clearing it away must have been considera- ble. When the vines are planted, the surface of the soil is again thinly strewed with lava, over which the young shoots are suffered to run. The height of die peak from the surface of the water, is about eight thousand ^perpendicular feet. Upon a comparison of observations made at the same periods with the thermometer on the peak., and at Fayal, they were found to be as follows : Fahrenheit's Thermometer. Fayal. On the Peak, f Eight o'clock — 69« 47® ^Twelve. — — n 50 <26 THE AZORES. When viewed from the sea, the peak assumes the appearance of a cone, almost regular, of im- mense magnitude, having a smaller cone rising from one side cf its summit, which is that alrea- dy described. This mountain rears its elevated head far above the clouds, which float around its craggy sides, and is visible to the extent of many leagues. NEWFOUNDLAND. ''^i CHAPTER 11. Banks cf Newfoundland — uncommon appearance of ves- sels engaged in the fishery — great bank — cause cf the fogs — cod-fish — mode of catching and preparing '2t~—'of drying and packing — vessels employed in the commerce — produce cf that branch — island of New- foundland — Eskimaux^ the only natives seen there — • account cf that race of men — original discovery of Neivfoundland — harbour of Saint J ohn— scaffolds-^ the town — sterility of soil — uninviting climate — co- lonization prohibited — importance in a political vie-iv — islands of ice — Saint Pierre and Mlquclon — Cap" Breton, HAVING taken our departure from the A^ zores, vre proceeded on the voyage to North A- tnerica ; and on arriving at the banks of New- foundland, a number of vessels, stationed at va- rious distances, and seemingly at anchor, occur- red to our view. These we soon understood to be engaged in the cod fishery. They are, in ge- neral, from eighty to one liundred and fifty tons burden, fitted out from several places in England. particularly from the western counties, and from the islands of Jersey and Guernsey.' There are, besides, vessels, be'onging to the fishermen vrho winter in Newfoundland, and at the settlements In the neighbouring parts of the continent. The Great Bank, which is about forty leagues ^8 NEWF0UJ7DIA!s^n. distant from llie island, is an enormous mountain formed beneath the surface of the sea. Its extent is about a hundred and sixty leagues, and its breadth about sixt}^, the extremities termuiating in points. On the eastern side, towards the eentre, akind of bay is formed, called the Ditch/ The depth of water varies much throughout the whole, being, in some situations sixty, in others only five fathoms. Daring the hottest Vveather, liie fish do not frequent either the great or the smaller banks ; but retire to the deep waters. It has been remarked by many people, that on ap- proaching the banks, the noise of the billows of the ocean become more shrill and loud ; an effect which is probably produced by the shallowness of the waters. The thick fogs, w^hich are here more prevalent than m any other part of the Atlantic, exhibit a singular phenomenon ; and may be presumed to owe their origin to the stream from the gulph of Mexico, the discharge of waters incessantly accu- mulating there by the pressure of the trade winds. The system of philosophy introduced by Sir Isaac Newton, maintains, that the combined at- tractive influence of the sun and moon* and the centrifugal force of the water arising from the diurnal motion of the earth around its axis, ele- vate that liquid element at the equator to a much greater height than at the poles; and that the de- gree of elevation is ia pj^oportion to die alternate , FEWFOUNBtAN-ii. i^i; advancement, or decline, of the power of these luminaries. This immense collection of waters, impelled by its own gravitation, by the attraction of the earth, and by the force of the winds operat- ing with tliose causes, moves onwards in a wes - tern direction ; flows through the chain of Carib> bean islands ; and enters the Mexican gulph be- tween the island of Cuba and the promontory of Yucatan. Opposed by the surrounding coasts^. it pursues its way out of the gulph, between Flo* rida and the Bahama islands ; assumes a course to the northwards ; and thus runs in the direc- tion of the coast of North America, being at the nearest seventy-five miles distant from it, and re- ceding still further, in proportion to its progress. Its breadth is about forty- five miles : and its ra- pidity is about four miles in an hour. The banks of Newfoundland appear to form the limits of its advancement towards the north : and it diverges from thence, passing through the Azores to the southward, until its impulse be NE'WFOtTNDLAND. 51 where, discharging her cargo, she returns to her station : and, in the course of the season, thus re- new^ four or five different freights. The cod-fish is dried on the island, and larger vessels arrive from England, to convey it from thence to the European markets. In packing the fish in bulk, in the hold of the vessel, much care and attention are requisite : and the greatest precautions are used in loading, to preserve them from exposure to the moisture of the atmosphere, by spreading sails and cloths over the boats in which they are contained, and over those fish al- ready in the vessel, if the smallest degree of damp- ness in the air be observable. A person, denomi- nated culler^ or inspector, attends the loading of each vessel, in order to see that no fish which is not perfectly cured, be introduced into the car- go, which otherwise might soon become dama- ged. The price of fish cured at Newfoundland, is generally fifteen shillings the quintal : and it nets in Europe about twenty shillings. The expence of its freight to the coast of Spain, is two shillings and sixpence, and to Leghorn three shillings, the quintal. The dried fish sent to the West Indies, is pack* ^d in casks ; and is inferior in quality to that car- ried to Europe. The fish which is salted without being dried, is termed Core-fish, or green cod» A vessel with twelve men^ from the middle of S2 IffEWFOUNDLAND-. April to July, must catch, salt, and bring into port- ten thousand fish, otherwise the owners will be excluded from all claim to the established bounty The same crew% how-ever, usually procures, during the season, more tlian double that quantity. I'he merchants of England who are concerned in these fisheries, supply the fishermen upon cre- dit with every article of w^hich they may be in want ; and are repaid at the fall of the year, with the produce of their industry. Several hundred thousand pounds arc thus annually advanced, in speculation, on an object of commerce, before it is extracted from the bosom of the ocean. About four hundred ships, amounting to thirty- six thousand tons burden ; two thousand fishing shallops, of twenty thousand tons ; and twenty thousand men, are, in times of tranquillity, usu- ally employed every year in this fishery. About six hundred thousand quintals offish are annually taken, which, upon an average of seven years, are worth, at the island, fifteen shillings per quintal. These, w ith the other amounts, consisting of sal- mon, cod-oil, seal-oil, and furs, exceed annually half a million sterling. Of tw enty thousand men from Great Britain and Ireland, employed in that fishery, eight thousand necessarily continued, when their country was not at war, on the island all the winter. Several thousand still remain there during that season, and are occupied in repairing^ NEWFOUNDLAND. 3S or building boats and small vessels, or in erecting the scafFolds for drying fish. These are not pro- perly seafaring men ; and are distinguished by the denomination of planters, Newfoundland, which, in point of magnitude, may be classed among islands of the first extent, is, in fertility of soil, as far as it has hitherto been ex- plored, much inferior to any of similar dimensions. Whether it ever had native inhabitants has not been fuliy ascertained : and its sterility, were it even as real as is supposed, is not a sufficient reason for as- serting that it never had any ; as the natives of America, in general, derive their subsistence, not from the vegetable productions of the soil, but from fishing and the chase. The Eskimaux are the only people who have been found there : and iliey are by no means to be accounted aborigines of the country. The neighbouring territory of Labrador is their native land, where they pass the greatest part of the year ; and, unattached to any particular spot, v/ander over an immense tract of desert and inhospitable v/ilds, although their num- bers, if collected, would scarcely people two or three villages. Throughout this prodigious and dreary expanse of region, called by the Spaniards Labrador, and by the French, New Brittany, which is bounded by the river Saint Lawrence and the North Sea, and also by the coasts of New- foundland, no savages, the Eskimaux excepted, are to be met with. They are likewise iov^:^^-^^ 34 N£WFOUNDLAIv''D. a considerable distance from Hudson's Bay, on rivers which How from the westward. ^ Their name is said to be derived from a word in the Abinaquis language, Esqiiimaiitsic^ import- ing, an eater of raw flesh ; they bei.ig the only people known in North America, who use their food in that state. They are likewise the only savages v, ho permit their beards to grow. They assume the appellation of Keral'itCy or men. They are of a middling stature, generally robust, lusty, and of a brown colour. The oil of the whale, and that of the sea-cow and porpus, constitutes the most essential part of their food, contributing to defend the stomach from i^^r.t penetrating eifects of cold. The nature of their aliment imparts to their con- stitution that fulness, and to their complexion that greasy sallowness for which they are remarked. Their head is large in proportion, and thefr face round and fiat ; their lips are thick ; their eyes dark, small and sparkling, but inexpressive ; their nose is flat ; their hair black, long, and lank ; their shoulders are large ; and their feet uncommonly small. They are disposed to be lively ; are subtile, cunning, addicted to theft, irritable, but easily inti- midated ; and incapable of long entertaining, or con- cealing, sentiments of hatred or revenge . They are the only people on the continent of America, who, in character or appearance, exhibit the smallest re- semblance to th-C inhabitants of the northern p^irts of Europe, NEWFOUNDLAiVD. 55 Their covering is made of the skins of seals, or of wild animals, or of those of the hind and sea: fowls which frequent their territory, and which they have acquired the art of sewing together. A species of capuchin, or coat with a hood, fitted closely to the body, and descending to the middle of the thigh, forms a principal part of their dress. They also wear trowsers of the same materials, drawn together before and behind with a cord. Several pairs of socks, with boots, are worn by both sexes, to defend the legs and feet from the penetrating cold. The dress of the women is dis- tinguished from that of the men by a tail, which falls a considerable w^ay down; by their capuchins being much larger tow^ards the shoulders, in order to cover their children, when they wish to carry them on their backs ; and by their boots being much wider, and ornamented with whalebone. In these they frequently place their infants for safety, and for warmth. Some of the men wear shirts made of bladders oi the sea-calf, sewed together with a needle of bone ; the thread being formed of the nerves of animals, minutely divided. They are averse to industry or exertion ; and seldom give themselves the trouble of construct- ing wigwams, or huts. The warmth of their sto- mach, and the nature of their cloathing, producing a sufficient degree of heat, they are satisfied with the sheiter afforded b} tents made of hides loosely thrown together, by the rocky caverns of the sea^ 3-6 ^TEWFOUNDLAi^Dj coast, or by placing themselves to the leeward of a )bank of sno\^ In the caverns they sometimes make use of a lamp, formed of a large hollow bone, containing a quantity of oil ; but this is only for the coRvenience-of procuring light, as they appear to be ignorant of the application of fire to culinary purposes. The air proceeding from their hmgs is so mephitical and offensive, that two or more of them shut up in a small and close apart- ment, and thus excluded from free air, would pro- bably not long survive. It is only of late years that spirituous liquors have been introduced a- mong them: and, notwithstanding the severe cold of their chmate, a quantity of rum remained for a considerable time in the possession of one of their chiefs, before any of these natives would hazard an experiment of its effects. Fortunate had it been for them if they still continued in ig- norance of that liquor, which has proved so bane- ful to a great portion of the uncivilized inhabitants of America] The instruments which they use for the chase, and in fishing, are constructed with much neat- ness and ingenui:y. Their bows are composed of three pieces of pine, or larch-tree, which being neither strong nor very elastic, these defects are remedied by fortifying them behind with a band of deer's tendons, which, when wetted, contract, and at once communicate elasticity and force- Ever since they have been visited by Europeans^ iJ E VV P O U N D L A N 13 « J 7 they have given a preference to the fusee : and whenever that instrument can be procured, the bow falls into disuse. Like all other men in the savage state, they treat their wives with great coldness and neglect : but their affection towards their oiispring is lively and tender. Their language is guttural, and contains but few words : so that they express new ideas, or give names to novel objects, by a combinatiou of terms, indicative of the qualities of the tilings which they wish to describe. Their ideas of religion are obscure and contract- ed. They acknowledge two invisible essences ; the one, they represent as the origin of good , the other, to whom they pay the most frequent ho- mage, as that of every species of evil. Their canoes are formed with no inconsiderable degree of art : and much industry appears to be bestowed on their construction. They are point- ed at each extremity ; and are covered with the skins of sea-animals. In the upper part, or deck, is an aperture Vvith a bag affixed to it, through which the savage introduces his body ; and, tying its mouth around his waist, and taking in his hands, a paddle which he uses alternately on each side, he shoots through the waves, by which he is tossed and buifeted, while the water is uni'blc to penetrate the slender vessel in which he rides. Nevt'foundland extends in the form of a trian* gle, about a hundred leagues from east to west, D 38 NEWFOUNDLAND* and a hundred and twenty -five from north to south ; being situated between forty-^ix and nity- two degrees of north huitude. John Giibato, a Venetian, was its first discoverer, under the pa- tronage of king Henry the Seventh of England. No advantage was derived irom thence, until the lapse of a period of near forty years Cape Race, and Cape Ray, are the two promontories which present themselves to mariners sailing or the river Suint Lawrence* Eighteen leagues to the west- w.axl of the first, appears Cape Saint Mary, which forms the entrance of the bay of Piacentia towards the east. This bay is sixteen leagues in breadth, and twenty in depth Towards its head is the harbour, capable of containing in safety one hun- dred and fifty vessels, and defended by a ibrt call- ed Saint Louis The French were the first Eu- ropeans who frequented this situation. Between Piacentia and Cape Ray, the western point of the island, two other bays, of considerable extent, penetrate some distance into the country. Thty are distinguished by the appellations of Fortune and Despair. No settlements have yet been niude on iheir coasts : and they are but little frequented. Cape Ray, together with the island of Saint Paul, about fifteen leagues distant from it, form the en- trance into the gulph of Saint Lav/rence : and vessels sailing thither, must pass, m clear u cather, in sight of the one, or of the other. BcsK'ts rhe bays already noticed, this island contains a \ ariety NEWFOUNDLAND. 39 of Others, particularly on the eastern coast, among which two are remarkable for their extent ; those of Trinity and Conception. Near the latter is the harbour of Saint John, which is secure and well fortified. Bordered by dark and gloomy rocks, vv^hich exhibit a barren, inhospitable appearance, the couatry, on a nearer view of its soil, belies not the character of its rude uninviting features, which, amid their nakedness, display neither grandeur nor sublimity. At a league distant from the entnmce of Saint John's harbour, no opening in the cor.st is discernible. A v/hite tower, raised on a precipit- ous eminence, seems rather intended as a m irk to warn vessels of the danger of approaching the rocky shore, than as a beacon to conduct them to a place of safety. On a nearer examination of it^ its strength becomes apparent, and no hostile ves- sel can enter, with impunity, the narrow chasm beneath. This structure, situated on a part of the precipice, on the south side of the entrance of Saint John, is named Fort Amherst. The inlet, called the Narrows, exceeds not five hundred feet in width. On each side, towards the north, the rocks rise to the altitude of four hundred feet : but on the south shore, they are of less eleva- tion. Heath, juniper, and wild spruce, the offspring of sterility, sparingly cover the rocky surface. The appearance ol the harbour and its environs^ 40 NEWT CXI NBLA-ND. is, nevertheless wild and picturesque. In pre- ceeding further up the hilet, a battery, called Soutli Fort, is placed on the left ; and another, named Cliain-rock, on the right. At a consider- able elevation above these, several little forts are $een. A rock, in the form of a cone, is crowned with a battery, constructed under the direction of tl\Q late Sir James Wallace, who, in 1756, \^■as vice-admiral on the station, and governor of the island; and with a lifty-gun ship, two frigates, and two sloops of sixteen guns each, made a gal- lant and successful defence against the attacks of Adijniral Richery, whose force consisted of seven ships of the line, and three frigates. Viewed from the summit of this eminence, the tovv'n and the scaffolds on which the fish are placed to dry, present a singular appearance. These scaffolds are generally forty feet high, and con- siot of several stages, on the rafters of each of which a quantity of brush-wood is placed. They are sufficiently strong to support the weight of the green fish, and also, occasionally, of one or two men. These are erected in every situation, as well in th.e yallies, as on the margins of the perpendicular rocks. The tov/n of Saint John borders on the basin : and its situation affords no attractions, except to those wliom interest or necessity induces to con- suit the advantage, rather than the pleasure, aris- ing from diversity of local situation. It contains NEWFOU>rr)LANO. 41 a church and two chapels ; one for the catholic religion ; the others for persons of the methodist- persuasion ; also a court-house, and a custom- house. An officer of the customs was, until lately, plac- ed at the head of the law department, and decid-- ed not only in civil, but in criminal causes A gentleman who has been bred to the bar, at pre- ' sent fills the situation of judge of the island* The buildings are mean, and the streets narrow and dirty. Fort Townshend is placed above the to^vn ; and contains the house allotted for the go- vernor, with the store-houses and magazines, which form a square. From hence, the entrance^, the harbour, the narrows sunk between elevated precipices; and the water, covered with small vessels, passing and re-passing, form a lively and busy scene These, together with the town, and the adjacent country, diversified by lakes with ver» dant borders, exhibit, in the midst of a barren wild, a combination which may, for a short peri^ od, afford tiie charms of novelty. Over a place called the barrens, is a road which leads from Fort Townshend to Fort William^ commanding the narrows and the harbour With the latter, Signai-hill from whence the approach of ships is an. ivjunced, communicates. Its j:er'. pendicular height from the sea, is iour hundred and four feet: and it contahis, or. is summit.. two pondb,-afForaing exceileut waicFo 42 ' NEWrOUNDLANI^' * The bay of Bulls lies about twenty-eight miles from Saint John's. The internal parts of the is- iap;d have never yet been explored by the Eng- lish. A very small portion of land is at present cultivated ; as neither the soil nor climate are fa- vourable to productions necessary for the sup- port of life. The duration of summer is too short : and no kind of grain has sufficient time to arrive at maturity. The winter breaks up in May : and, until the end of September, the air is temperate, during which the progress of vegeta- tion is sufficiently rapid. Hay and grass are here of a very indiffi^rent quality. The land is so spa- ringly covered with soil, that much labour and ex peace are necessary to produce a crop, which but poorly recompences the industry of the hus- bandman. The quantity of ground used for the purposes of cultivation, is therefore very small : and the prohibition of the parent state against at- tempts to colonize, are, by the sterile nature of the country, rendered almost unnecessary. The fishiCrmen are, in times of u^arfare, enjoined to re- turn to England : and the merchant is authorized, to retain from the w^ages of each person in his em- ploy, a certain proportion as a provision, in case of incapacity from poverty or sickness, for any indi- vidual to return to his country. By this prudent regulation, no seaman, thus engaged, can be lost to the service of the stite. The English and French long shared between NEWFOUNDLANB. 43 them, the privilege of dryiiig their fish cn the coasts of this island; tlie latter occupying the southern and northern parts, and the former the eastern shores. The interior is composed of mountains, covered with woods of an indifferent quality. The animals found here, are foxes, por- cupines, hares, squirrels, lynxes, otters, beavers, wolves, and bears. The chace is difficult, and unattended with profit. The land and water» fowl are, partridges, snipes, woodcocks, falcons, geese, ducks, and penguins. In the bays and ri- vers are found fish of various kinds, such as sal- mon, eels, herring, mackarel, plaice, trout, and al- most every description of shell-fish. The territory which was requisite to prepare the cod-fish, belonged at first, to any person who took possession : and from this inconvenience, a source of frequent discord arose. The property of that part of the coast, of which he made choice, was at length, by the interference of government, secured to each fisherman. By this judicious ar- rangement, expeditions thither v/ere multiplied so greatly, that in 1615, vessels from the British dominions, equal in all to fifteen thousand tons, were employed in the fishery. The value of this island soon became apparent, not only as a source of national wealth, arising from the exchange of fish for the various productions and luxuries, which the southern parts of Europe afford, but 44 .. NEWI"0UNt)LANI5, what is still of greater importance, as a principal nursery for the navy. The property of this island was, by the peace of Utrecht, confirmed to Great Britain ; and the sub- jects of France preserved only the right of fishing from cape Bonavista northwards, and to cape Rich on the opposite side. This line of demar- cation was afterwards altered, and placed at cape Ray, on the v/estern side of the island. The floating masses of ice, which pass in the vicinity of the eastern coast, and sometimes enter the straits of Belisle, in the summer montlis. ex- hibit to mariners an awful and singular spectacle. These enormous mounds, the accumulated ope- ration of cold for a series of years, in the arctic regions, are detached from the coasts near Hud- son's Bay, and Davis's Straits, by storms, and o- ther causes- They sometimes exceed an hun- dred and forty feet in altitude ; and their basis beneath the sea usually doubles those dimensions. Rivulets of fresh water, produced by their gradu- al dissolution, distil from their summits. We had an opportunity of viewing three of these stu- pei idous piles by the light of the raKJon, whose ra^s, leflccted in various directions, from their {glassy surface, produced an effect no less pleasing than novel. They become either stranded in shallow water, until they are melted down, or grow s<) porous, that they subside under the sur- face of the ocean. la fogs, ^id evenin the gloom NEWFOUNDLAND. 45 of night, they are discoverable at some distance, by the cold which they emit, and by their whiteness and effulgence. The islands of Saint Peter's and of Miquelon, are nothing else than barren rocks, not far from the southern coast of Newfoundland. They were ceded to the French by the treaty of 1763, on condition that no fortifications should be erected, nor more than fifty soldiers kept on them to en- force the police. The former possesses a harbour, capable of containing thirty small vessels. They were inhabited, in times of peace, by a few French- men, for the purpose of carrying on the fisherj-. The geographical position of Cape Breton j was, many years ago, ascertained with tolerable accuracy. A narrow passage of about four leagues in length, and scarcely half a league in breadth, named the gut of Canso, separates it from the eastern extremity of the peninsula of Halifax or Nova Scotia. It forms, with the islands of New- foundland and Saint Paul, the boundaries of the entrance 'into the gulph of Saint Lawrence. Its figure is very irregular : and it is so intersected by bays and small riv^ers, that the two principal parts join, only by a neck of not more than eigiit hundred paces wide. The soil, in man) places swampy, and covered with light moss, is, gene- rally, ill adapted for cultivation. On the lands -towards the south side, corn, hemp, and fiax, are 4,6 NEWFOUNDLAND. raised. Coal-'ni les, and like wise plaster of Pa- ris, are here found All the harbours are, on the east, open to the sea. The north coast is elevated, and almost in- accessible. The harbour of Louisbourg, once among the finest in North America, is on the east- ern coast ; and extends into the country four leagues, in a vviiidhig direction, containing good anchorage, and every where at least seven fa- thoms of water. The entrance, between two small islands, is four hundred yards wide ; and by means of Cape Lorembec in its vicinity, is discoverable at sea for a considerable distance. On the fortifications of this harbour, the French expended neai' a million and a half pounds ster- ling. . This island, denominated by the French lie Roy ale, contained, while in their possession, up- w-ards of four thousand inliabitants, whose indus- try V* as almost whollv applied to the fisheries ; as, from the sterility of the soil, neither agriculture nor breeding of cattle could succeed to any ex- tent : and from the paucity of wild animals, peL try could never become an object of commerce. The island is about thirty-six leagues in length, and twenty- two in its greatest breadth. It is en- vironed by rocks : and the climate, although suf- ficiently healthy, is not agreeable, being subject to frcjuent and thick fogs. It was conquered in 1758, by the British forces under General VVoifca 27EWrOI7Nr>LANB, 47 The inhabitants are at present not numerous; and the officer who commands the troops, usual- ly a brigadier-general, in time of war, is invest- ed also with the powers of civil governor. His residence is at Sidney, the capital. The subjects upon which 1 have now so long dv^elt, are, I am afraid, from their barrenness, but little interesting ; nor can I, at present, in- dulge the hope of affording information, or cnter- taiiiment which will appear much more gratifying. Of rude, uncultivated regions, there can be tew descriptions but sach as are merely geographical, or relating to natives, equally unimproved with the wilds and forests which they traverse or in^ habit. Canada presents few objects which can occupy the enquiries of an antiquarian ; and it contains, perhaps, in less \'ariety than many other portions of the globe, productions which can recompence the researches oi' the naturalist. Its lakes and ri- vers, it is true, are the vast and principal objects which are calculated to inspire wonder and grati- fication The immense volumes, the irresisti- ble weight and velocity of the latter, tearing througii and overpowering the obstacles opposed to their course, by the rugged and unequal terri- tories amid v.'hich they roil, produce ilUls and cataracts of singular sublimity, and of comm.and- ing beauty ; these, although in some degree si- milar in edect, arc*, notwithstanding, iiiexhausti- bie in variety. 48 GULPH 0? SAINT LAWRENCE. CHAPTER III. Giilph of Saint Lawrence — Prince Edward'* s inland-^ Bird isles — Bay of Chaleurs ; its commerce, and that of Gaspe — state of agriculture — route to the capital — perforated rock — the Ganet — mouth of the great river— Anticosti — wild aspect presented hij the coasts on either side the river — river Saguenaij "^wa^erfall — boldness of shores — imijiense depth — king'^s posts — account of the inoiintaineers — Malbaij --^Coudres^^Saint PauVs hay — Camoiirasca — island sf Orleans. THE Gulph of Saint Lawrence, as well as the great river which there* disembogues its wa- ters, received its name from Jacques Cartier, who in 1535 ascended as far as Montreal. Its boun- daries are the coasts of Labrador, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and Newfoundland. The island of Saint John, whose name is now changed to that of Prince Edward's island, was first settled by Aca- dians, in 1749 : and their number soon amount- ed to three thousand. When the English took possession of it, the former people retired to the continent. Its present condition is flourishing : and its inhabitants amount to about seven thou- .sand. The soil, which is level, is in general fer^ tile , is watered by rivulets and springs ; is di* versified with meadow s for pasture, and with si^ eULPIi GF SAINT.LAXV'EENCE, 4^ tuations which would be w^U adapted for the cul- ture of grain, were it not, that from the frequen- cy of fogs, that article is liable to be destroyed by mildew. The climate is likcw^ise subject to drx'' v/eather, when insects and vermin, hostile to ve- getable productions, are abundantly propagated. The island is upwards of an hundred and ten miles in length ; and its greatest breadth does not much exceed nine. It bends in the form oS a crescent, each extremity terminating in a sharp point. The harbours are commodious and safe. Cod-fish is found in g-reat plenty all around it* coasts. A channel, five leagues in width, sepa- rates it from the continent : and Green Bay, near- ly opposite the center of the island, enters the country more than four leagues, forming, with the bay of Fundy, the isthmus, whose breadth is about five leagues, that connects the peninsula of Nova Scotia with the main land. At the bottom of Green-bay the French had some settlements^ and a small fort. Several families are now estab- lished on that part of the coast, and a road of com- munication from Pictou to Halifax, has lately been opened. Not far from the entrance of the gulph, and somewhat to the northward, the Magdalen isles, which are seven in number, and of small extent, present themselves in a cluster. They are inha- bited by a few families, whose principal support E 50 GULPH OF SAINT LAWRENCE. js derived from fishing. Tiie Bird isles, situated in the gulph, consist of two rocks, elevated above the water, upwards of an hundred feet ; their flat- tened summits, whose circumference exceeds not, each, three hundred paces, exhibit a resplen- dent whiteness, produced by the quantities of or- dure, with which tl:iey are covered, from immense ilocks of birds ; which, in summer, take posses- sion of the apertures in their perpendicular cliffs, where they form their nests and produce their young. When alarmed, they hover above the ^ocks, and overshadow their tops by their num- bers. The abundance of their eggs affords to the inhabitants of the neiglibouring coast, a ma- terial supply of food. A vast inlet, penetrating into the country for a f reat many leagues to the westward, is called the bay of Chaleurs, which being advantageously pla- ced tor carrying on fisheries, has on its borders, a considerable number of inhabitants. Jacques Cartier, in 1534, sailed into tliis bay ; and from tlie heat which he there experienced in the mid- dle of summer, gave it the name which it still re. tains. Notwithstanding the more northerly situa- tion of this bay, the cold is not so intense here as at Quebec, being moderated by the sea air. The depth of snow in the woods, during the winter season, is from six to eight feet ; but varying ac- cording to the different situations, and the degrees of severity in the weather. It is not before the be^ GULPH OF SAINT LAWREICCE. 51 ainnin!^ of May, that the iniiueriGe of the sun up- on vegetation is here materia-iy feit ; nor is it be- fore that time, that the woods are entirely ckar^ ed of snow. It may be ol)served as a curious circumstance.^ that for six, eight, and ten leagues from the shores of tliis buy, in proceeding into tiie woods, tr;n-eU Icrs and huntsmen frequently meet with spots of about tvvo or three acres in surface, entirely bure, and yet surrounded with seven or eight ftet depth of snow; Vv-hich, in times of bad v/eather, melts ns it fliUs, both on those situations, and on the trees, to which they aflbrd grow^th. Those spots., in their relative position to the head of the bay, extend from east to west, being usually found in that direction ; and their denudation cf snovv may probably be occasioned hj subterraneous heat, w^hich approaching nearer to the surilice of the ground, produces the e^ect whicl! has been dc scribed. Neither *iminerals, nor mineral waters, ha^'c yet been discovered in this district. The timber wliich grows here consists of spruce, fir, white and black birch, beech, elm, and oak, which, being porouSj is of little value. The island of Bonaventure, is about a league from the nohh shore of the entrance into the bay : and a small number of persons Winter on it, for no other purpose than to retain possesion of their fisheries. About twenty-one leagues up t'le bay, 52 GULPH OF SAINT LAWREKCE. there is a parish of the same name with the is- land. Cod-fish, salmon, and herrings are the only pro- ductions of commerce derived I'rom the bays of Gaspe and Chaleurs. Ship-building has of late years been here tried with success : but whether or not it will answer in time of peace, is uncer- tain. There are about three hundred families settled all along the coast of the district of Gaspe, who are chiefly of the Roman Catholic religion, and whose sole occupation is fishing. The pro^ duce of their industry is transported to foreign markets, in from eight to ten square-rigged ves^ r-els, besides smnller craft. The liutlvco of this district are of the Micmao tribe. A few Malicites come thither at times, from the river Saint John and Madawaska. Up- on the banks of the river Ristigouche, which emp- lies itself into die bay of Chaleurs, and about eight leagues from its mquth, there is a church, and an Indian village. At Tracadigash, and at the set- tlement of Bonaventure, there are likewise church- es, besides some chapels in the smaller settle- ments, where the ecclesiastical functions are per- formed by two, and sometimes by three mission- aries. Agriculture is uncommonly neglected, and in an entire state of infancy. It has of late years been somewhat more attended to than formerly ; because the want of salt, an article ever scarce in GULPH OF SAIA'T LAWkENCE. 5S those parts in time of war, and oti"ier causes, ga^'e to the fisheries a temporary check, and obliged fhe inhabitants to secure the means of subsisting their families, by tillage and husbandry. But, it is probable they will, as they have ever done, re= same the hook and line, as soon as they have a prospect of encouragement in that their fa\ ourite pursuit. The roads of intercourse betw^een the adjoining settlements are very indifferent. But^ wherever there is any interruption, by extensive, unsettled parts of the coast, the traveller must have recourse to v\-ater communication. Three different routes are pursued by tliose whom business obliges to travel to Quebec, hi the winter season. One of these is by the coast of the Saint Lawrence, the other t^\ o by the river Ristigouche. In adopting the second, the travel- ler ascends that river about twelve leagues, until he reaches the Matapediach, which empties itself therein, and whose course he traces upwards to a lake of the same name, from whence it derives its source ; hence he continues in the same direction, about ten leagues, along an Indian path, to the ri- ver Mitis, flowing into the S^int Lavrence The third route is, by ascending the Ristigouche, to near its source, as far as a brook, called by the natives Wagancitz; and from thence, by' crossing the land to the Saint John, about eight lecgues above the great falls ; b}- [ollowmg diis ri\'er, un= k2 54 GULPH OF SAINT LAWRENCE. til its junction with the Madawaska, and the latter river to lake Tamiscuata ; and by proceeding alone that lake to the gronde portage^ or road opened by the late General Haldimand, through Tvhich, after walking about thirty miles, the tra- veller gains the ri\^er Saint Lawrence, near the riviere des Caps, two leagues and a half below the parish of Camourasca. The first of these routes is the longest ; and may be computed, from the middle of the bay of Chaleurs, at about one hun- dred and forty leagues to Quebec. The two lat- ter must be nearly equal. It would appear, how- ever, from the courses, that the road by Matape- diach, must be somewhat shorter than the other. The distance of either, from Carlisle, in the mid- dle of the bay, to Quebec, does not exceed one hundred and twenty leagues. The only object in this part of the country^ which may be considered as a natural curiosity, is the rock called Perce, perforated in three places in the form of arches, through the central and largest of which, a boat Vvith sails set, may pass with great facility. This rock, which, at a dis- tance exhibits the appearance of an aqueduct in. ruins. rises to the height of nearly two hundred feet. Its length, which is at present four hundred yards, must have been once much greater ; as it has evidently been wasted by the sea, and by the frequent impulse of storms. The shell- fish procuicd, in the month of Au- (iULPH OF SAINT LAWRENCE. OJ gust, from the rivers, and from their mouths near the coast, in the vicinity of the bay of Chaleurs, are so highly impregnated with a poisonous qua- lity, as to occasion ahuost instantaneous death to those who eat them. The cause of this circum- stance remains yet to be ascertained. Not only in the district of Gaspe, but in most settlements on the Gulph of Saint Lawrence, similar effects have been experienced. The period of the year has apparently no other share in producing them, than by the reduction of the quantity of waters which generally takes place in summer. The greater the diminution of waters, the stronger, of course, becomes the proportion of poisonous mat= ter with which these waters are endowed : and this being imbibed, especially during ebb tides^ by the shell-fish, they are thus productive of con» sequences, fatal to those who use them as an arti= ele of food. Not only the Bird isles, already described, but the island of Bonaventure, and Perce rock, abound in summer with ganets, which, in prodigious flocks, arrive early in May from the southward. They lay and hatch their ego:s, not only on those islands, but on various parts of the coast, where adventurous sportsmen, often with considerable risque, ascend and plunder their nests, amid the steep and threatening cliffs. These birds, at that period very fierce, will sometimes, by the seve^ 56 RIVER SAINT LAWRENCE. rity of their bite, directed chiefly at the eyes of the despoiler, force him to retreat. The bay of Gaspe is more than t\\o leagues m depth : and its coasts are inhabited by settlers en-" gaged in the fisheries. The Gulph of Saint Lawrence is about eighty- leagues in length : and when the winds and cur,- reats are favourable, its passage does not usually exceed twenty -four hours. The Saint Lawrence is one of the greatest, most noble, and beautiful rivers, and, at the same time, the furthest naviga- ble for vessels of a large size, of any in the uni- verse. From its mouth to the harbour of QuebeCy the distance is one hundred and twenty leagues : and vessels from Europe ascend to Montreal, %vhich is sixty leagues higher up its course. Cape Rosiers, at a small distance to the north= ward of the point of Gaspe, is properly the place which limits the farthest extent of this gigantic river : and it is from thence that the breadth of its mouth, which is ninety miles, must be estima= ted. They who pretend that its width is one hun- dred and twenty miles, measure it apparently from the eastern extremity of Gaspe. The mouth of the Saint Lawrence is separated into two chan» nels, by the island of Aniicosti, extending from south east to north west, about a hundred and twenty miles, and in its utmost breadth about thirty miles. The north channel is little frequent- ^ cdp although safe and of great depth. It is much RIVER SAINT LAWRENCff. 5T narrower than the south channel, which is near sixteen leagues wide at its entrance. The island is of little value. The wood which growls upon it is small : the soil is barren : and it possesses not a single harbour where a vessel may with safe- ty enter. The country is flat tow^ards the coasts^ rising a little in the centre, but no where into hills. Flat rocks extend at each e-xtremity, to a consi- derable distance from the shores, rendering the approach hazardous. A few savages sometimes ^vinter there, for the purpose of the chace. On passing this island, the land becomes visible on both sides of the river. The mountains of Notre Dame and Mont Louis, behind which the former are placed, are part of a chain on the south side of the river, the vallies between which are occasionally frequented by sa» vages. The environs of Mont Louis afford lands fit for cultivation : and some families are there settled. On the northern and opposite coast of the river, the bayof seven islands is placed, where a fleet under the com.mand of Admiral Walker was, in 1711, lost on an expedition against Que- bec. An eminence, named La pointe de Mont Pe- lee^ is situated seventeen leagues to the south west of these islands. Along the extent of the north coast, the river 3Ioisie, and several other conside- rable streams, roll down to the Saint Lawrence^ the tribute or their waters. Cape Chatte, on the south shore, exhibits a jS RlVZTi SAiXT LAWR£:;CE. bold appearance : between this and a point oii the north coast, which terminates the bald moun- tains, the channel Oi the river becomes considera bly contracted. Two conical elevations, upon a mountain, call cd Les Alammelles de Matane^ about two league: distant from the coast, pi'esent themselves to view. No coantrj^ can exhibit a more wild aspect than that which here extends on eidier side the river. Stunted trees, rocks, and sand, compose the in hospitable and desolate tcrrkor}'-, which cannot boast of an acre of soil capable of yielding any useful production. Birds and wild animals are, indeed, here to be found. But the chace is prac- ticable only to savages. The shoal of Maniagoagan advances from the north shore, upwards of two leagues into the ri- ver. It receives its appellation from a stream which has its source in the territory of Labrador, and here discharges itself into the Saint Lawrence. This considerable body of water is also called the Bitick-'river. Towards the east there is a bayx)' the same name as- the shoal, and on *J^" vv<-^ +• b;.y of Outardes. The small island of Saint Barnaby is placed near the south shore, opposite to an inconside- rable river, upon the banks of which is a settle ment called Rimouski. From Mont Louis to this island, the distance is forty leagues, through- out whicli, tiiere is neither on the south or the TvIVER SAINT LAWRENCE. 59 north shore any station which can have the merit of being termed a harbour ; and some anchoring places only present themselves. These are prin- cipally on the north shore ; and are distinguished by the names of port La Croix, the river Saint Marguerite, the cove of Trinity, the port of Saint Nicholas, and the bay of Maniagoagan, already mentioned In proceeding further up Cape Ori- ginal a promontory of a rugged and singular form, attracts the eye ; in whose vicinity is the isle of Bique, ^vell known to navigators for its excellent harbour, and as being the place at which pilots- are landed from vessels proceeding down the river. To the southward of the cape, the stream of Trois Pistoles empties itself into the Saint Lawrence : and the isle of Basque lies opposite to its mouth. A considerable number of rivers flowing through long channels from the northward, pour their waters into the Saint Lawrence. The chief of these is the Saguenay , drawing its source from lake Saint John, and running to the eastward through a mountainous and barren region. The lake is about thirty leagues in circuit : and its borders, as well as the surrounding country, are covered with pine trees of a small grov/th. The Saguenay, which sweeps along a prodigious body of waters, is interrupted in its course by abrupt precipices, over which it dashes its foaming cur- rent ; and, being bounded by banks of great ele- vation, is remarkable for the depth and impetuosi- ^0 RIVER SAGUENAV, ty of its Rood, long before it mingles with tlie §reat river. The fall, which is about fifty feet in altitude, is ninety miles distant from the mouth of the river; and is chiefly striking, for the immense sheet of water, which is perpetually broken in its rugged course, and assumes a resplendent white- ness. When viewed from below, the scene is stupendous and terrific. The incessant and deaf- ening roar of the rolling torrents of foam, and the irresistible violence and fury with which the river hastens down its descent, tend to produce on the mind of the spectator an impression awfully grand. The picturesque and rudely wild forms of the lofty banks, exhibit a gloomy contrast t© the lively splendour of the cataract. The impetuous torrent of the Sanguenay, whei> the tide is low, is sensibly felt in the Saint Law- rence, which, for a distance of many miles, is obliged to yield to its impulse ; and vessels ap- parently going their course, have thereby been carried sidelong in a different direction. Besides the fall now described, this river is broken into several rapids or cataracts of lesser height. In many places the banks are rugged and steep ; and at intervals, consist of almost perpen- dicular cliffs of astonishing elevation, some rising to a thousand, and some to six or seven hundred feet. The length of the course of this river is a hundred and fifty miles. Its breadth is generally near three miles, except near its mouth, where it IlIVER SAGtTENAi. ^1 Contracts to one-third of that extent. An attempt bus been made in the centre of its mouth, to sound the depth with five hundred fathoms of line : but no bottom was found. A mile and an half higher up from thence, the depth has been ascertained at one hundred and thirty-eight fathoms : and sixty miles further, in ascending the course of the ri- ver, the depth is near sixty fathoms. Notwithstanding its immense breadth, and the stupendous elevation of its rocky shores, the course of this river is rendered extremely crook- ed, by points of land which appear to interlock each other; and thus prolong its navigation. The tide ascends to the peninsula of Chicoutami, and, intercepted in its retreat, by these frequent promontories, is much later in its ebb, than that of the Saint Lav^rence. The level of the former river, becomes thus, many feet higher than tliat of the latter, into whose bosom it rushes, with the boundless impetuosity already remarked. On the north side of the mouth of the Sague- nay, is the harbour of Tadoussac, capable of af- fording shelter and anchorage, for a number of vessels of a large size. Previous to the establish- ment of a colony in Canada, this place was fre- quented, for the purpose of carrying on the fur trade. Several'smali settlements belonging to go- vernment, are placed along the northern coast of the Saint Lawrence. These are usually known by the appellation of the King's Posts; and are F 62 RIVER SAGUENAY. let, for a term of 5^ears, to commercial people, for the design of conducting a traffic for peitry with the savages, and also for the salmon, whale, seal, and porpus fisheries. Their several names are, Tadoussac, Chicoutami, seventy -five miles up the Saguenay ; a post on Lake Saint John, Ashuabmanchuan, Mistashni, les Isles de Jere- mie on the sea, Seven Islands, and Point De Monts. At these various situations, previous to the year 1802, about eighty Canadians were employed in hunting, and purchasing furs from the Indians in winter, and during summer, in the salmon fishery, for which the river Moisie, eigh- teen miles below Seven Islands, affords a most productive field. Chicoutami is the only situation on the Sague- nay, where the soil is fertile, and abounds with timber of an excellent growth. It has been found by experiment, that grain will ripen much sooner there than at Quebec, although placed considera- bly to the northward of that city. The vicinity of the sea, to the former, disarms the winter of a por- tion of its severity, and produces an earlier spring. The natives in possession of the tract of coun- try around Lake Saint John, and on the borders of the Saguenay, are named Mountaineers, and arv descended from the Algonqums. They are neither so tall, nor so well lormed, as the savages thi't riLiige tliroughout the north- v» est country; and are also strangers to that sanguinary icrocitVj RIVER SAGUENAY. 63 by which many of the Indian tribes are characte- rized. They are remarkable for the mildness and gentleness of their manners; and are never known to use an offensive weapon against each other, or to kill or wound, any person whatever. Nor can the effects of spirituous liquors, so baneful to ether natives, excite them to cruelty, or vindictive pas- sion. Their behaviour is uniformly orderly and decent. Their mode of dress is the same as that which now prevails, among the other savages v ho have intercourse with Europeans : and the stuiTs, and silks, for which thev exchansre their furs, are often rich and costly. Their vrhole number is about thirteen hun- dred ; nearly one half being converted to the Christian faith, and the other half being Pagans. A missionary sent from Quebec, resides among them : and chapels, where divine service is per- formed, are erected at the principal posts. Re- peated efforts, and much persuasion have been used, to prevail on these savages to cultivate the lands, and to plant Indian corn, or potatoes. They have not, however, been able to overcome their propensity to indolence, or their utter aver- sion and abhorrence to that species of labour. Thvy appeared to relish these articles of food, when offered ; and would eat them with avidity, if accompanied with a little grease. Yet, even the incitement of revrard. superadded to the pros- pect of a constant and wholesome supply of nou- 64 mVEit SAINT LAWRENCE. rishment, failed in producing any inclination for industry. Although, like other tribes in a barbarous state, each individual is solely dependent, for support and defence, on the strength of his own arm, and the resolution of his mind ; they are, notwithstand- ing, so pusillanimous, that at the appearance of an enemy, however small in riumbers, they betake themselves to flight, and retire for safety into ihe woods. The furs procured in this quarter, are, in ge- neral, of a superior quality : and great attention j is bestow ed by the hunters, in scraping and clean- ing the parchments. These posts, which pro-, j duced to government a rent of no more than ! four hundred pounds a year, have lately been let, on a lease of thirty years, to the North-w est Com- pany, a society of merchants at Montreal, for the yearly rent of one thousand and twenty-five pounds. Near the island of Bique, the settlements on the south coast of the Saint Lawrence may be said to commence. Green Island, about seven leagues higher in ascending the river, exhibits a pleasing appearance ; and affords luxuriant pas- turage for a number of cattle. Some of the low grounds on the island, and on . the continental shore, being frequently, during high tides, over- flowed by the salt water, are clothed with herb» agcr The river in this part, abounding in shoals. illVER SAINT LAWRENCE. 65 there is a channel, or traverse on the north side of Green Island, where, at low tide, the current descends with rapidity, and through which ves- sels hold their course. The coast on the south shore, from hence, upwards, assumes a flat ap- pearance, the hills rising at some distance from the river. I'he north coast, although of no great elevation, is abrupt, rocky and sterile, for an ex- tent of several leagues : and the islands towards that side, exhibit a like desolate character. Between Point a /' Aigle^ a mountainous pro- montory on the north coast, and a congeries of other eminences called les Eboulements, there is a considerable settlement situated at the bottom, of an inlet, which recedes about three miles from the great river ; and is called Mal-bay. Here the land is cultivated and inhabited for an extent of six miles, in a rich and romantic valley, through which a river, abounding in salmon and trout, winds its course into the bay. The soil which consists of a black mould upon sand, is fertile : and the inhabitants, whose communication with other settled parts of the country is not frequent, possess, within their own limits, an abundance of the necessaries of life. Cattle, sheep, some horses, wheat, oats, and boards, are exported from hence to Quebec. This bay is frequented by porpuses of a milk-white colour, which in some seasons yield a handsome profitj to thos^ concerned in the fisheries. Whales I 2 66 RIVER SAINT LAWRENCE. seldom ascend higher than the mouth of the Saguenay. The entrance to this bay, presents to the eye, a landscape at once singularly romantic and beauti- ful ; being terminated by mountains, whose va- ried and elevated summits, sharpen into cones of different magnitudes. In ascending the Saint Lawrence, the country on either side affords pleasure and amusement to the traveller, by the exhibition of a profusion of grand objects. Amid the combination of islands, promontories, and hills clothed with forests, some scenes more strikingly than others, attract the at- tention. On the north side, after passing MaU bay, a bold and interesting scene is formed, by huge masses of rock, interspersed with shrubs, and by the east side of the hills, called les E- boulements, which, with majestic elevation, pro» ject into the river. The settlement of Camou- rasca, with the mountains beyond it, forms the opposite coast. The island of Coudres, situated at the distance of about a league from the north sliore, rises gra- dually from the water, except in a few places, where its borders, although of no great height, «re almost perpendicular, and covered with small trees. It contains one parish, and about thirty families, each of which derives its support from its own lands. The extent of this island, is about seven miles in length, and about thi'ee in extreme RIVER SAINT LAWRENCE. 67 breadth. Its name arose from the quantity of hazel-trees, which Jacques Cartier, in his voyage to Quebec, found growing in its woods. The river, on the south side of the island, is of no great depth ; and forms a winding channel of about two miles in width, deeper than any other part of its bed in this situation, and known by the appellation of the Traverse. When the wind is unfavourable, the navigation is here difficult : and the breadth of the river from Coudres to the south shore, being fourteen miles, great attention is necessary, in order to steer within the Traverse ; for, if it be overshot by a large vessel, she will inevitably be set aground. But, as the bottom consists of mud, or sand, damage is, in that event, seldom sustained, any further than the delay in waiting for a high tide. The channel between Coudres and the north shore, is upwards of a league in breadth, and of considerable depth. But as the anchorage there is by no means good, tlie bottom being rocky, a vessel in endeavouring to pass through it, would not be in full security, should the wdnd and tide cease to operate in her favour. For this reason,^ the southern passage is preferred by pilots. The Eboulements, already noticed, consist of a small chain of mountains, suddenly rising from the water ; and, towards the east, bounding the entrance into Saint Paul's bay. On their sides, are several cultivated spots : and the settlement? 63 RIVER SAINT LAWREJiTCE* appear one above another, at different stages of heio;ht. The houses, corn-fields, and woods, irreofularlv scattered over the brow of the hills, produce an effect, luxuriant and novel. Saint Paul's bay is formed by mountains, •which, on either side, recede from the coast of the river, towards the north, inclosmg a valley of nme miles in extent, through which, two small rivers pursue their serpentine courses. The mountains are heaped upon each other : and their rugged and pointed summits, boldly terminate the view. The valley is well cultivated, and thickly inha- bited. A great proportion of the soil is rocky and uneven : and some spots, on the sides of the hills, are so precipitous, that they are unfit for the purpose of pasturage. The inhabitants, however, cultivate those spots by manual labour ; and sow them with wheat or oats. The dwell- ing-houses are, in general large; are built of stone ; and show an external neatness, which is^ indeed, common to almost the whole of the ha- bitations of the peasantry in Canada, the roofs and walls being washed with lime. A number of rivulets, rolling down the sides of declivities, tlirough gullies and ravines formed by their waters, afford situations convenient ior saw-mills, several of which are here erected : and a o) vsiderahle quantity of lumber * is exported * Lumbei-, in a commercial sense, imports boards,, plank, cr squared timber* ^ RIVER SAINT LAWRENCE, 69 from hence, every summer. This settlement also supplies grain, and cattle, for exportation ; and comprehends, throughout its whole extent, about two hundred houses, and a neat church. The se- minary of Quebec possesses the seignorial right over the lands of this establishment, which has been peopled upwards of a hundred and ten years. The further extremity of the valley affords a scene of wild and picturesque beauty. A small river hastens, over a stony channel, its broken andv interrupted waves. Acclivities on each side rear aloft their pointed summits : and the sight is abruptly bounded by a chain of elevated hiils. The rocks, composing the mountains in this vici- aity, are of a hard, grey contexture, intermixed with grains of shining, garnet-coloured quartz, which is sometimes united in entire stripes. This pait of the country, as well as Mai- bay, is subject to earthquakes, particularly in the win- ter season, when they are sometimes so alarming, as to threaten destruction to the buildings. No serious accident has, however, of late years oc- curred ; although apprehension frequently com- pels the inhabitants to forsake their dwellings du- ring the reiteration of the shocks. The breadth of the Saint Lawrence from Mai- bay to Camourasca on the south shore, is about twenty miles : and a cluster of rocky islands is situiited about a league from the coast of that set- tlemeiit. Between these islands and the shore^. 70 raVER SAIXT LAWr.ENCE. the inhabitants place, every spring, a fence, form- ed '>f the straight and slender boughs of trees, firmly stuck ii.to the sandy bottom, at about two fet^t distance from each other. When the tide ascends, the white porpuses, with which the ri- ver abounds, enters those snares : and the vio- lence of the ciirrent, causing a tremulous motion in t]:ie branches, they are afraid to repass the fences. When the tide has retired, they are left upon the dry beach. These fishes, which are of a sno^vy whiteness, are to be seen playing, in great numbers, near the •surface of the water, from the mouth of the river, as high up as the island of Orleans, and frequent- ly in the basin of Quebec. They often follow, in multitudes, vessels sailing in the river : and many of them are twelve, or even fifteen feet in length. One of the smallest will yield upwards of a barrel of oil. The fisheries of seals and sea-cows, are likewise profitable. The vicinity of Camourasca presents a scene, wdld and romantic, being varied by islands, by level lands, and by rocky acclivities. The sul- phureous springs found here, and the immicnse masses of broken rock, which appear to have been thrown together by some violent and uncommon effort of nature, afford grounds for supposing, that this part of the country has undergone ma- terial changes. From this setdement, in ascending the coast of HIVER SAINT LAWRENCE. 71 the great river, the country is fertile, and thickly inhabited ; being, in some places, settled to the depth of several concessions. The cultivated lands are level, and watered by a variety of line streams; among Vvhich the Quelle, the Saint Ann, and the Saint Thomas, are the chief The latter falls into the Saint Lawrence in a beautiful man- ner, over a perpendicular rock, whose altitude is twenty-five feet. Great quantities of grain are produced in the parishes of the same names as these rivers : and the soil surpasses in fertility, any of the settlements around Quebec. The coasts of the great river afford excellent meadow lands. The churches, and settlements which are placed thickly together, produce an agreeable contrast, with the forests and distant mountains. The face of the country on the north is elevated and bold, being composed of a succession of hills, rising abruptly from the water, and terminating towards tlie west, by cape Tourment, \\ hose perpendicu- lar altitude is two thousand feet. Between Saint Paul's bay and that cape, at the basis of one of the mountains, stands the parish cf la Pitlte Riviere, The centre of the river is diversified by clusters of small islands, some of which are settled, and partly cleared of their native woods. They sup- ply good pasturage for cattle, and great quantities of hay. On approaching the island of Orleans, a rich and interesting view displays itself. It is composed by the eastern extremity of that island. '?2 BIVER SAINT LAWRENCE. clc ''ed with trecb, Uit isle de Madame^ the Cape, and the a^ountains which recede Irom it towards the west and north, with the cultivated meadows which spread themselves under its rocky basis. When the atmosphere is varied by clouds, which frequently envelope the summits of those moun- tains, and which, by suddenly bursting open, present them partially to the eye, the spectator becomes impressed with the sublimity and gran- deur of the scene. Cape Tourment is three hundred and thirty miles distant from the mouth of the river. After passing the island of Coudres, the water assumes a whitish hue, and is brackish to the taste, the mixture of salt continuing to diminish, until the tide reaches the lower extremity of Orleans, where it becomes perfectly fresh. The latter island, rises in gradation, from its steep banks on the coast, towards its centre, pre^ Sf nting a pleasing and fertile appearance. Beyond it, the mountains of the north coast exalt their towering summits Its circumference is about forty-eight miles. It was, in 1676, erected into an Earldom, under the title of Saint Laurent, which has long been extinct. Of the two channels formed by this island, that of the south, possess- ing much greater depth and breadth, is tlie course through which all vessels of burden are navigated. About the center of this island is an anchoring ground, called Patrick's hole, protected by loity illVER SAINT LAWRENCE. 75 banks, and affording shelter, when necessary, for a great number of ships. The channel on the north, is navigable for sloops and schooners only ; and appears to be gradually diminishing in depth. Wild vines are found in the woods of Orleans, which induced Jacques Cartier, on his first landiiig there, to bestow on it the appellation of the Isle de Bacchus, Considerable quantities of grain are here produced ; and in several situations, there are orchards afibrding apples of a good quality. ..At the lov/er extremity of the island, the river is six- teen miles in breadth : and at the upper extremi- ty, a basin extending in every direction, about six miles, is formed. At the approach to this basin, a number of objects combine to produce a lively and interesting prospect. The foaming clouds of the Montmorenci, pjDuring over a gloomy precipice, suddenly open on the eye. The rocks of Point Le- vi, and the elevated promontory, on whose sides the city of Quebec is placed, seem to bound the channel of the great river. The north side of the town is terminated by the Saint Charles. The set- tlement of Beauport, in extent about seven miies^ intervenes bet\veen the Montmorenci and Que- bec; and is situated on a declivity, extending from the hills to the Saint Lawrence, whose banks gradually slope towards the little river of Beau- port, from whose western borders the land be- comes level. A chain of mountains towards the north intercepts the view. G qUlEBEC. CHAPTER IV. :^iebeC'-'descrzption of that city — romantic situation"-^ natural strength — religious orders^ and their es*a- blishments — ship-building — interesting scene dis- played from Point Levi — extensive and grand land- scape presented from the heights to the westward cf the garrison — River Montmorenci — natural steps "-^sublime "waterfall — basin^ and its strata — descrip- tion of the Fall as seen from the coast of the Sai?it Lawrence. FROM the period at which Jacques Cartier visited and explored the river Saint Lawrence, until the year 1603, no serious efforts were made by Europeans for tlie formation of a settlement in Canada. A space of nearly a century was suffer- ed to elapse, without any other advantage having been derived from the discovery of this part of the continent of Nordi America, than that of the precarious profits which accrued to some adven- tuiers, by carrying on ^ith the native inhabitants, ^vho frequented the coasts of the gieat river, an inconsiderable traffic in peltry. At length, in the rera mentioned above, Samuel de Champiain, a man of enterprize and talent, ac- tuated by liberal sentiments, and by patriotic^ more than by interested views, arter having sur- ve) ed tlie borders of the river, for the choice of a qufiBEc. 75 situation presenting the greatest conveniences for a settlement, gave the preference to an elevated promontory, between the Saint Lawrence and the small river Saint Charles. It is asserted, that some of his attendants, having pronounced at first view of this point of land, the words " Quel bee !" Champlain bestowed that name on his projected town. After erecting some huts for the shelter of his people, he began to clear the environs, from the woods with which they Vvcre covered. The spot which Champlain designed as a foun- dation of a future city, did no less credit to his judgment than to his taste. Its superior altitude and natural strength, afforded the advantage of its being in time rendered, by the labours of engi- neers, a respectable and formidable fortress. Cape Diamond, the summit of the promonto- ry, rises abruptly on the south, to the height of three hundred and fifty perpendicular feet above the river; advances from the line of the banks on the west ; and forms tlic Ajice de Ma\ a small harbour, occupied for the purpose of ship-build- ing. Some uneven ground subsides into a valley, between the works and tlie heights of Abraham ; on the latter there are natural elevations, which are higher by a few feet, than any of the grounds included v/ithin the fortifications. In 1690, Quebec was first fortified with eleven stone redoubts, v/hich served as bastions, com- municating with each others by curtains composec? 76 quEBEC. ofpallisades ten feet in height, strengthened in the interior with earth. No other defence was, for many years, provided against the hostile attempts ^ of the Iroquois, and other savage tribes who were I inimical to the French settlers. The ruins of fivo of these redoubts are yet extant. The citadal is now constructed on the highest part of Cape Diamond, composed of a Vv hole bas- tion, a curtain and half-bastion, from whence it extends along the summit of the bank towards the north-east ; tliis part being adapted v/ith flanks, agreeably to the situation of the ground. There are, towards the south-west, a ditch, counter- guard, and covered-way, with glacis. The works have, of late years, been in a great measure re- built, and raised to a pitch calculated to command the high grounds in the vicinity. . When viewed from a small distance, they ex- hibit a handsome appearance. A steep and rug- ged bank, about fifty feet in height, terminates the ditch and glacis, on the north, tov/ards which the ground slopes downwards from Cape Diamond, nearly three hundred feet, in a distance of about nine hundred yards. Along the summit of the bank a strong wall of stone, nearly forty feet high, having a half and a whole flat bastion with small flanks, occupies a space of two hundred yards, to Palace- gate, at which there is a guard-house. From hence to the new works at Hope- gate, is a distance of about three hundred yards. The rocky eininence increases in steepness and elevation as far as the bishop's palace ; near which there is a strong battery of heavy cannon, extending a con- considerable way along the brow of the precipice, and commanding the basin, and part of the river. Between the edifice now mentioned, and the low- er town, a steep passage, partly formed by nature, intervenes ; over which there is a barrier, with a gate- way of stone, surmounted by a guard-house: and this communication is otherwise defended by powerful w^orks of stone, under the palace on one side, and on the other stretching upwards towards the government-house, where the bank becomes considerably more elevated. This buildingv which is dignified with the appellation qS. chateau ^ or casde of St. Louis, is placed on the brink of a precipice, inaccessible, and whose altitude ex- ceeds tv/o hundred feet. The building is sup- ported by counterforts, rising to half its height, and sustaining a gallery I'he apdrtments are occupied as offices for the civil and m.ilitary branch- es, acting immediately under the orders of the governor 'general of British America, v^^ho likewise commands tht troops, and whose resi- dence is in a building of more modern construc- tion, forming the opposite side oia square. The apartments are spacious and piam : but the struc- ture has nothing external to recommend it. Up- Qn the brmk of the precipitous rock, a stone wail G 2 78 qUEBEC. is extended from the old chateau, for a distance of about thi^e hundred yards to the westward, which forms a line of defence ; and serves as a boundary to the garden, within which are two small batteries, one rising above the other. Cape Diamond, nearly tw^o hundred feet high- crthan the ground on which the upper town is siiuated, presents itself to the westward. From the garrison there are five gates, or outlets to the neighbouring country : the highest. Port Saint Louis, opens to the westv/ard, and towards the heights of x^braham ; Port Saint John, towards Saint Foix, through v. hich is the road to Mon- treal ; Palace and Hope-gate open towards the ri- ver Saint Charles and the north ; and Prescott- gate affords a communication to the lower town on the south-east. In most of the public buildings, no great degree of taste or elegance can be discovered, al- though much labour and expence must have been bestowed on their construction. The architects seem principally to have had in view, strength and durability, and not to have paid much regard to those rules of their art, which combine sym- ii:etry with utility. The cathedral church of the catholics, is a long, elevated, and plain building of stone, with the spire on one side of its front. The internal ap- pearance is neat and spacious : and it is capable qUEBEC. 79 df containing about three thousand persons* A good organ has here lately been introduced. The Jesuits' college, originally founded at Quebec in 1635, Kas been, since that period, re- built ; and is a large stone edifice, three stories high, of nearly a square figure, containing an a- rca in its centre. The garden is of some extent ; and has, at one end, a grove of trees, part of which is a remain of the original woods, with which the promontory was once covered. The society of Jesuits which became establish- ed in Canada, formerly composed a numerous body : and their college was considered as the first iristitution, on the continent of North Ame- rica, for the instruction of young men. The ad- vantages derived from it, were not limited to the better classes of Canadians ; but were extended to all whose inclination it was to participate in them : and many students came thither, from the West Indies. From the period of the expul- sion of the Jesuits from the states of Europe, and the consequent abolition of their order on that continent, this establishment, although protected b}' the British government, began rapidly to de- cline. The last member of that fraternity died a few years ago : and the buildings, as well as lands, v/hich form an extensive domain, devolved to the crown. ^rhe landed property was designed by the so- vereigu as a reeompence for the services of the 80 ^ (QUEBEC. late Lord Amherst, who commanded the troops in North America, at the time of the conquest of Canada, and who completed the reduction of that province, under the British goverrmient. The claim to these estates has been rehnquished by his successor, for a pension. The revenue arising from them, has been appropriated by the legislature of Lower Canada, for the purpose of establishing in the different parishes, schools for the education of children, I'he Jesuits' college is now converted into a commodious barrack for the troops. The seminary, a building of some extent, forming three sides of a square open towards the north-west, contains a variety of apartments^ suited for the accommodation of a certain num- ber of ecclesiastics, and of young students, who are of the Roman Catholic religion. This insti- tution owes its foundation to M. de Petre, who, in 1663, obtained from the King of France, let- ters patent for that purpose. Tythes were enjoin- ed to be paid by the inhabitants, to the directors of the seminary, for its support : and a thirteenth^ in addition to what was already the right of the church, was levied. This regulation being found too oppressive, was altered to a twenty- sixth part of the ])roduce, to be paid in grain p from which tax newly cleared lands were exempt- ed, for a space ot five yeai s. 'iiie laenioers ot the seminary are composed QUEBEC. 81 of a superior, three directors, and six or seven masters, who are appointed to instruct young men in the different branches of education, pro- fessed by each. Since the dechne and extinc- tion of the order of Jesuits, the seminary, which Was at first exclusively designed for the educa- tion of priests ; and, excepting the college of Montreal, is the only public establishment of the kind in the province, is now open to all young men of the catholic faith, although they may not be destined for the sacerdotal function. The north-east aspect of this building is agreeable in summer, having uixier it a spacious garden, which extends to near the precipice on the east, and overlooks the lower town. The monastery, with the church and garden of the RecoUets, which occupied the western side of the spot called Place d' Armes, are now rased to the foundation ; the buildings having been destroyed by fire in 1 796> and the order to which they were appropriated, having since that period, become extinct. Two new edifices have lately been erected, upon that site ; the one, a protestant metropoii- taa church, the other a house for the courts of law. They are both constructed with the best materials, which this part of the country affords, and executed in a neat and handsome style. The church, although not much ornamented, may be pronounced elegant, the rules of archi- ^2 (QUEBEC. * ' tecture having been adhered to in its structure. Considered as ornaments to the city oi Quebec, it is to be regretted, that separate situations have not been allotted for them ; and that in a country where pubhc buildings capable of attracting notice are rarely to be met with, two edifices of such eonsequence should have been placed so near to each other. The Hotel Dieu, with its gardens, occupies a large extent of ground. It was founded in 1638 by the Duchess d'Aiguillon, who sent from the hospital at Dieppe three nuns, for the purpose of commencing this charitable and useful institulrion. It consists of a superior, and tw enty-seven sis- ters, v/hose principal occupation is to assist, and to administer medicines and food to invalids of both sexes, who may be sent to the hospital, and who are lodged in wards, where much regard is paid to cleanliness. The convent of the Ursulines was instituted in 1639, by Madame de la Peltrie,,a young widow of condition, in France, It is possessed by a su- perior, and thirty-six nuns, who are chiefiy en- gaged in the instruction of young vromen. The building is spacious, and has extensive gardens annexed to it The bishop's palace, already mentioned, situa- ted near the communication with the lower to^^'u^ has been, f>r several years, occupied for public offices, and for a library. The Ciiapei has been cenverfed into a rogiu, ior the meeting of the pro^ Tiiiciai asserr.bly of representatives. Another edifice on the north side of the town, extending in length from Palace-gate to the ram- parts on the west, upwards of five Jiundred feet in length, contains a number of vau: ted apart- ments ; and is occupied for the office oi ordn^ince, for barracks for the royal artillery, for an armou- ry, store-houses and Avork-shops, and for a pub- lic goal, which forms the east end ol the building. The ruins of a large house, which was former- ly that of the intendant, remain on a fiat ground on the banks of the river Saint Charles, and in the suburbs of Saint Roc. This was once called a •palace; because the council of the French go- vernment in North America there assembled. The apartments, which were numerous and spa- cious, were furnished with magnificence and splendour. On one side of the court, were plac- ed the king's store-houses, w^hich, together with the palace, were consumed by fire, occasioned by a shell thrown from the garrison in 1775, when the town was blockaded by the Americans, with a view to dislodge some of the hostile troops, who h..d taken shelter in these buildino-s. The general hospital, on the banks of the Saint Charles, about a mile v» estv^ard from the garrison, ai;d surrounded by meadow lands, \^'as founded in 1693, by M. de Sai..t Vallier, Bishop of Que- bec, widiLUe benevolent design of afibrding sup- S4 q^UEBKt. port and relief to the poor, the infirm, the sickj and the wounded : nor have the purposes of its original founder at any time been defeated Vvith regard to the most scrupulous exactitude in their fulfilment. The extent of the building, whose form is that of a parallelogram, is considerable : and it contains a variety of apartments, neat and commodious. A superior and thirty-seven sisters compose the community. Their time which re- mains Ircm the occupations of the duties of reli- gion, and the offices of humanity, is employed in gilding ornaments for the decoration of churcheSj, and in several other w:orks, at which they are ex- pert. The streets of Quebec are, in consequence of its situation, irregular and uneven : many of them are narrow ; and but very few are paved. The houses are built of stone ; are of unequal iieights j and covered, in general, with roofs of boards. The roughness of the materials of which thej' are constructed, gives them a rugged aspect : and the accommodations are fitted up in a style equal- ly plain and void of taste. The frequent accidents which have happened, and the extensive damage which the town has repeatedly sustained from corifiagrations, have suggested the expediency of covering the public buildings, and many of the dwelling-houses, with tin, or painted sheet-iron. The lower town, which is the principal phce of commerce, occupies the ground at the basis o^ the promontory, which has been gradually gained from the cliiFs on one side, by mining, and from the river on the other, by the construction of wharfs. The channel is here about a mile in breadth, to Point Levi, on the opposite shore : and its greatest depth at high water, is thirty fa- thonls, the anchorage being every v/here safe and good. ' Since the year 1793, ship-building has been carried on with considerable success : and vessels of every description and dimension, from fifty to a thousand tons burthen, have been constructed. The materials are found in abundance in the sountry : but the anchors, sails, and cordage, are generally imported. As the tide usually ri- ses eighteen feet, and at spring tides twenty-four feet, there is no difficulty in finding situations for dock -yards. The rock, of which the promontory of Quebec is composed, consists of a species of black lime slate, varying in thickness ; which, although ap- parently compact, may, by the stroke of a ham- mer, be shivered into very thin pieces: and, by exposure to the influence of the wealher, it mouL ders into soil. A considerable number of the houses of the town, is built of this stone : and there is a mode of placing it, by which, in mason- ry, its durability may be considerably prolonged. The inhabitants, covnpreiiended in Quebec, H 86 (QUEBEC. and in the suburbs of Saint John and Saint Rotj may be computed at about fifteen thousand. When viewed from Point Levi, on the oppo- site coast of the nver, an interesting variety of objects is exhibited, by massy rocks, interspers- ed with shrubbery ; by Cape Diamond, boldly rising from the water ; by the houses along its base, contrasted with the overhanging cliiFs ; by a confused cluster of buildings overtopping each other up the side of the hill ; and by the fortifica- tions which crown the summit. The Saint Lav/- rence flowing on one side, and the Saint Charles on the other, give to this spot, the appearance of an island. The bridge across the latter is like- wise visible from hence : and remote mountains terminate the prospect. The scene, in winter, becomes amusing to strangers ; particularly, if the ice on the great ri- ver, between Quebec, and the opposite coast of Fuint Levi, be closely fixed, a circumstance w liich depends more upon accident, than on the severity of cold ; and does net frequently occur. W ben the ice becomes consolidated and station- ary, it is called, by the Canadians, the /?o«^, which ai][o] ds, not only to the country people inhabit- ing: the neighlx)uring parishes on the south side, a facility of conveying their produce to market, ar.id thereby of rendering provisions aixl provender more abundant in the town ; but likewise pre- sents a large field for gratification and exercise^ RIVER MONTMORliNCI. 87 to the citizens, who then are constantly drislng their horses and carriages, upon the solid surxace of the stream. From the heights to the westward of the gar- rison, an extensive and beautifiii view, is develop- ed, in summer, to the eye of the spectator. It is composed of the works, part of the loftier build- ings of the town, the basin, Point Levi, the island of Orleans, the south and north channels, the pa- rishes of Beauport, Ange Gardien, and chateau Richer, with the mountains on the north-east, stretching to Cape Tourment. The river Montmorenci, which empties itself mto tiie Saint Lawrence, at the distance of eight miles to the north-east of Quebec, was called after a marechal of that narnx, who was viceroy of New France. Passing through a course from the north-east, of considerable length, the first settle- ment through which it Hows, is called La Motte, situated on the northern extremity of a sloping ground, which gradually descends from the moun- tains, to the coast of the great river. At La Mot- te, the waters diiTase themselves into shallovv' cur- rents, interrupted by rocks, which break them into foam, accompanied by murmuring sounds, tending to enliven the solitude and solemn still- ness, which prevail throughout the surrounding forests, and on the desolate hills. The channel t)f the river, farther down, is bounded by preci-. pitoui rocKs: its bre:idui becomes extremely 88 RIVER MONTMORENCI. contracted : and the nipidity of its current is pf©- portionably augniented. At a place called the Tiatural steps^ there are cascades of the height of te.i, or twelve feet. These steps have been gra- dually formed, by the accession of waters which the river receives in its progress, at the break- ing up of winter, and by the melting of snows. From the middle of April, to the end of May, its | waters roll along with an increasing j^eight and rapidity. The banks, from the natural steps, i downwards to the Saint Lawrence, are composed ■ of a lime slate, placed in horizontal strata, from the depth of five to twenty-four inches each, con- nected by fibrous gypsum of a whitish colour, i The waters, at the season already mentioned, ^ powerfully impelled in their course, insinuate themselves between the strata ; dissolve the gyp- sum ; and tear the horizontal rock ; which gives || way, in fragments of various sizes, yielding to the rushing violence of the sweeping torrent. The regularity displayed in the formation of some of these steps, is well deserving of observation. On the east side, the bank is almost perpendicu- lar ; is nearly fifty feet in altitude ; and is cover- ed at the- summit, with trees. The south-west bank rises beyonct the steps. In looking down- wards it appears also wooded ; and terminates m a precipice. The bank on the opposite side, as- sumes a regularity of shape, so singular, as to re- semble the rums of a lofty wall. Somew^hat below, RIVER MONTMORENCI. §V die banks on each side, are clothed with trees^ which, together with the effect produced by the foaming currents, and the scattered masses of stone, compose a scene, wild and picturesque. From hence, taking a south direction, the stream is augmented in velocity ; and forms a cascade interrupted by huge rocks : and at a distance far- ther down, of five hundred yards, a similar ef- fect is produced After thus exhibiting a grate= ful variety throughout its course, the river is pre« cipitated in an almost perpendicular direction, over a rock of the height of tvro hundred and for- ty-six feet, failing, where it touches the rock, in white clouds of rolling foam ; and underneath, where it is propelled with uninterrupted gravita- tion, in numerous flakes, like wool or cotton, which are gradually protracted in their descentj until they are received into the boiling, profound abyss, below. Viewed from the summit of the cliff*, from whence they are throw^n, the v/aters, with every concomitant circumstance, produce an ef feet awfully grand, and wonderfully sublime. The prodigious depth of their descent, the bright-" iiess and volubility of their course, the swiftness ^f their movement through the air, and the loud and hollow noise emitted from the basin, swell- ing with incessant agiti.tion from the weight of the dashing waters, forcibly combine to attract the attention, and to impress Vviih bentniients of ' H 2 90 RIVER MONTMORENCr. grandeur and eievttion, the mind oi the spectator. The clouda of vapour arising, fxnd assuming the prismatic colours, contribute to enHven the scene. They fly olTfrom the fall in the form of a revolv- ing sphere, emitting with velocity, pointed flakes of spr ly, which spread in receding, until inter- cepted by neighbouring banks, or dissolved in the atmosphere. The breadth of the fall is one hundred feet. The basin is bounded by steep cliffs, composed of grey lime slate, lying in inclined strata, which, on the east and west sides, are subdivided into innumerable thin shivers, forming with the hori- zon, an angle of forty-five degrees, and contain- ing between them, fibrous gypsum and pierre a calumet.^ Mouldering incessantly, by exposure to the air, and to the action of the weather, no surface for vegetation remains upon these sub* stances. An advantageous view of the fall may be ob- tained from the beach, when the tide of the great river is low. In this are included, the east bank of the river, the point of Ange Gardien, and Cape Tourment. The south-west point of the basin, becomes the nearest object, beyond which appears the cataract of resplendent beauty, foam- ing down the gloomy precipice, whose summits are crowned with woods. Its reflection from the \^^A beneath, forms a contrast to the shade thr -vn ^ Soft stoncj of wlucU ibe heads of p^pesj ^-e sometimes formed RIVER MONTMORENCI. 9i by the neighbouring cliffs The diffusion of the stream, to a breadth ol live lumdred yards, with the various small cascades produced by the ine- qualities in its rocky bed, on its way to the Saint Lawrence, display a singular and pleasing com- bination- It runs for about four hundred yards, through a wdde and steep gulph, which it is gene- rally supposed, that its waters have excavated. Oiie circumstance seems, however, to controvert this conjecture. The bed beneath, over which the river flows, is invariably composed of a solid stratum of rock, over several parts of which, there are fords for the passage of carriages. The ge- neral depth of v/ater, does not here exceed eight inches : but partial channels have been worn by the stream, few of which are ab(3ve three or four feet in depth. There appeal^ no vestige of any deep excavation, except in the vicinity of the fall^ which, if it had ever receded from the Saint Law- rence, must have formed in the solid bed of rock, basins of considerable depth. I'he ford being, in most places, rugged and unequal, its passage is unpleasant, and not altogether sate. 92 JEUNE LORETTE, CHAPTER V. feline Lorette-— domiciliated natives-'^mode of dancing — the Saint Charles — cascades on that river — the Chaudiere — description of its fall — appearance in •winter — island of Orleans — views from thence—^ soV — north coast of the Saint Lawrence — Cape Tourment — River Saint Anne — its waterfalls'^ lower fall described — La Puce — romantic falls oj that little river — various landscapes — Lake Saint Charles — picturesque combiiiations* - JEUNE LORE'I'TE is situated nine miles to the north-west of Quebec, upon a tract of land which rises towards the mountains. It com- mands, by its elevated position, an extensive view of the river Saint Lawrence, of Quebec, of the intermediate countr\\ of the southern coast, and of the mountains which separate Canada from the United States* I'he village, which contains up- Avards of two hundred inhabitants, consists of a- bout fifty houses, constructed of wood and stone, which have a decent appearance. The chapel ib small, but neat ; and the parish e>' tending to a considerable way around, the Ca- nadians, who form the greatest number of parish- ioners, have lately procured a church to be erect- ed for their accommodation, about a quarter of a mile from tlie village. The Indians attend, with JEUNE LORETTE. * 93 scrupulous observance, to the performance of then' devotions. The women are placed in the centre of the chapel : and the men arrange them- selves on each side, and on the rear. The for- mer have in general good voices : and both sex- es seem to evince a considerable degree of ferven- cy, in the exercise of their religious duties. They live together in a state of almost uninter- rupted harmony and tranquillity. The missiona- ry has a great influence over them : and they have exchanged, in some degree, the manners of savage life, for those of the Canadians, in whose vicinity thtj reside. The quantity of land they occupy in cultivation, is about two hundred acres, which they plant with Indian corn, or maize. A number of the men pursue the chace, during thcwinter season. The French language is spoken by them with consi- derable ease : and the men, in general, notwith- standing their partial civilization, maintain that independance, w'hich arises from the paucity and limitation of their w^ants, and which constitutes a principal feature in the savage character. This nation originally frequented the vicinity of lake Huron, near a thousand miles from Que- bec. It was once the most formidable and fierce, of any tribe that inhabited those quarters, dveaded even by the Iroquois ; who, however, fouiid means to subjugate, and almost to extirpate it, by pretending to enter into an alliance. I'he 94 JEUNE LORETTE. Hurons, too blindly relying on the protestations of the Iroquois, the latter seized an opportunity, to surprise and slaughter them. The village now described, was composed of apart of the Hurons who escaped from tlie destruction of their tribe ;. and is occupied by the descendants of that peo- ple. We assembled together in the evening, a num- ber of males and females of the village, who re- peatedly performed their several dances, descrip tive of their manner of going to vv^ar; of watch ^ ing to ensnare the enemy ; and of returning' with the captives they were supposed to have surprised. The instrument chiefly in use in the dances, is a calibash filled v/ith small pebbles, Call ed chichicoiiff^ which is shaken by the hand in of- der to mark the cadence, for tlie voices and the movements. They are strangers to melody in their songs, being totally unacquainted Vv^th mu- sic. The syllabies V/hicli they enounce, are yo^ he, waw. These are invariiibly repeated, the be- holders beating time v/ith their hands and feet. The dancers move their limbs but a little way fi'om the ground, v/hich they beat with violence. Their dancing, and their music, are uniformly rude and disgusting : and the only circumstance which can recompense a civilised spectator, for the penance sustained by his ear, amid this bois» terous roar, and clash of discordant sounds, is, that to each dance is annexed the representation JEUNE LORETTE. »S «f some action, peculiar to the habits of savage life ; and that, by seeing their dances performed, some idea may be acquired, of the mode of con- ducting their uaim.proved system of warfare. The river Saint Charles, called by the natives, Cabir Coubat^ on account of the curvatures of its channel, after winding for a few miles to the south- west of the lake of that name, passes the Indian -village, and rolls over a steep and irregular rock, of die altitude of thirty feet, forming a beauthiil and romantic cataract. In passing a mill, which is under the fall, the current becomes extremely narrow ; and, for a space of three miles, is bound- ed by woody banks, on vvhich there are frequent openings cut through the trees, disclosing the rushing waters. The rapidity of the stream, op- posed by rocks, produces quantities of white foam upon its gloomy surface, accompanied by mur- muring sounds. The waterfall, with the smaller cascades above it, the mill, the bridge, the village, and the distant hills, present an agreeable land- scape. About three leagues to the eastward of Lorette, the village of Charlebourg is situated. This pa- rish is populous and well cultivated, being one of the oldest settlements on that side of the river Saint Charles. The church stands on rising ground about a league to the north of Quebec : and the village, from the altitude of its position, commands a rich and extensive prospect. The %' RIVER CHAUDIERE. lands are six miles in depth, and form part of the seigneurie of the Jesuits. The river Chaudiere empties itself into the Saint Laurence, about eight miles to the south-west of Quebec. Its mouth is confined by woody banks ; and contains depth of water to admit a ship of considerable size. This stream iiows from Lake Megantic, through a course, north and north- west, for a distance of one hundred and twenty •miles. The falls are about four miles from its mouth : and the road thither being, for the greatest part through woods, it is necessary, even for those that have already visited them, to take as a guide, one of the neighbouring inhabitants. The sum- mit of the foils is about one hundred and twenty yards in breadth : and, in the spring of the year, the waters flow^ abundantly, swoln by the increase which they receive, from the dissolving snows of the country through which they run, and from tributary streams, which, at this season, are like- wise augmented by the same causes. The month of May appears to be the most ad- vantageous period, at which to contemphte this interesting scene ; the approach to which ought first to be made from the top of the banks, as in emerging from the woods, it conducts at once to the summit of the cataract, where the objects which instantaneously become developed to the eye, strike the iiiind with surprise, and produce a wonderiui and powerful impression. The waters descend from a height of one hun- dred and twenty fett; and, being separated by rocks, form three distinct cataracts the largest of "ivhich is on the western side, and they unite, in the basin beneath, their broken and agitated waves. The form oi" the rock forces a part of the waters, into an oblique direction, and advances them be- yo -d the line of the precipice. The cavities worn in the rocks, produce a pleasing variety; and cause the descending waters to revolve with foaming iury, to whose wliiteness the gloomy cliffs, present a strong opposition of colour. The va- pour from each division of the foils, quickly mounting through the air, bestows an enlivening beauty on the landscape. The wild diversity displayed by the banks of the stream, and the foliage of the overhanging w^oods, the briiiiaiicy of colours richly Cv ntrasted, the rapidity of motion, the effulgent brightness of the cataracts, the deep and solemn sound which they emit, and the various Cdscades further down the river, unite in rendering this, such ^ pleasing exhibition of natural objects, as lew scenes can surpass. On descending the side of the river, the iand- sccpe beco I itcs considerably altered; and the fails appear to great advantage. Masses of rock, and elevated points oi lana covered with trees, toge- l ^S RIVER €HAUDIER£. tber with the smaller cascades on the stream, pre- sent a rich assemblage, terminated by the falls. The scenery in proceeding down the river, is rugged and wild. The gratification derived, in the beginning of shimmer, from the contemplation of such scenes as that which has now been described, is consi- derably damped by a reflection on the short dura- tion of the period allotted for beholding them with comfort. Myriads of winged insects, hostile to the repose of man, will shortly infest the borders of this river. \V hen the warm weather, which consists not of one hali the year, is expired, the ungenial win- ter will resume its domination ^ and the falls them- selves, except an inconsiderable part of them, must, notwithstanding the rapidity of their course, become a solid body. Viewed in the winter season, the falls exhibit an appearance more curious than pleasiiig ; be- ing, for the greatest part coitgeaied, and the ge- neral form of the congelated masses, is that of a concretion of icicles, v\ hich resembles a cluster of pillars in gothic architecture ; and may not im- properly be compared to the pipes of an organ. The spray becomes likewise consolidated iiito three masses, or sections of a cone, externally convex, but concave to^\ards the lails. J htwtst side, being usually the only place in which the waters flow, the aspect is nifiniteiy imerior to liiat idispiayed in summer ; and tiie sound emitted^ is ISLAND or ORLEANS. 9^ comparatively faint. The surrounding objects^ covered alike \vith snov/, present one iii^ifonn glare. The rocks, and the bed of the river, dis- guised by unshapely Vvhite masses, produce a re- flection, which gives, even to the Vvutcrs cf the cataract, an apparent tinge of obscurity. The island of Orleans, rising iVoni the river Saint Lawrence, in some parts with steep a^d v/oodcd banks, in others with more gentle ascent, presents to the eye an agreeable object. Its ne<.r- t^st point is six miles to the north-east of Quebec* A favourable view of the neighbouring country is aftbrded from its higher grounds, particukiriy of the scenery on the north, which is divtrsilied, bold, and extensive. The flili of Montmorenci discloses itself from hence, amidst a rich and en- chanting combination of features. The central part of this island is clothed vvith trees : and the ground sloping from it on either side, few emi- nences occur, to interrupt the ^iew. The parish- es of Ange Gardien and Chateau Richer, are there seen to great advantage. From hence the river la Puce^ on the opposite coast, at the distance of five miles, by an engaging display of natural at- tractions, invites the attention of the traveller. It roils its current, broken into a refulgent white- ness equalling that of snow, from the summit of a lofty hill ; and afterwards conceals itself mid- way, behind an intervening eminence of inferior ^liiiude^ ciotiied witii trees. The motioa of iX^ loo ISLAND 0^ ORLEANS. waters is perceptible: i-iid the reflection of liglit arising from the fall, glistening with the niys of the siHK produces a pc-v. crful contrast with the deep veidiire of the forests by which it is environed. At the lov» er extremity of the island, there are situations no less bold than picturesque. The north shore is interspersed with ininiense masses of detached limestone-rock The south side is clothed ^vith trees to the borders of the ^reat ri- I ver; from either, are seen Cape Trurment, the isles and the mountains named Les Eboule- ments, which pierce the clouds with their pointed summits The soil of the islund is^ in general/ fertile, affording more produce th'^n is necessary for the consumption of its inhabitants. Not many years ago, it w^as for t'uo successive seasons^ visit^^ cd by a scourge, which swept away, in its pro- gress, the whole productions of the land. The grasshoppers, which are in a great degree multi- plied, by the too long continuance of dry weather^ appeared in such redundancy of swarms, as to consume every ^•egetable substance, and almost totally to cover the surilice of the ground. When, by their destructive ravages, the island became so denuded of verdure, as no longer to afford them the means of sustenance, they assembled on the water in clusters, resembling small rafts ; and floated w ith the tide and wind, along the basin of the Saint Lawrence, to Quebec ; where they filled the aecks and cordage ol the vessels at anchor ;. ISLAND OF ORLEA^^g. lOi and attcrwards betook themselves, through the tOvva to the ramparts, which, haviag stripped of grass, they proceeded in separate columns, through the country to the southward. A con* siderable part of their number probably perished in the voyage from the island : and the rem linder, having a greater extent of territory over which to spread, their depredations became less perceptible. Orleans contains five parishes, two of whichj Saint Piere, and Saint Famille, are on the north side ; and three on the south, Saint Frangois, Saint John, and Saint Lavvrent. The number of its inhabitants amounts to about two thousand. The channels which separate the island from the continent, are each about a league in breadth* The banks, on its western side, consist, for a con- siderable way down the Coast, of black lime-slate, covered with soil, generated fi'om the decompo- sition of that substance, and the annual decay of vegetable productions. The rocks of those on the eastern extremity, are mixed with grey quartz, reddish limestone, and grey limestone, combined with pale, grains of sand. From the parish of Ange Gardien, to the base of Cape Tourment, throughout an extent of eighteen miles, the coast is composed of fertile meadow land, varying in breadth, bounded on the north by steep and lofty banks, from whence the ground rises in gentle acclivities to the bases of the hills. By the reflux of the tide, a swamp o£ I '2, 102 ivORTH COAST OF THE a mile in width, is here ie I uncovered; and oii- so lie parts oi the coast of Orleans, there are sim- ilar muddy grounds. In spring and autumn, these situations are frequented by great numbers of snipes, plover, and wild ducks. In the midst of meadows, near Cape Tour- ment a narrov/ !jill, about a mile in length, and flat on its summit, rises to the height of about a hundred feet. A large dwelling-house, with ( chapel and other buildings, are placed towards i the eastern extremity ; thither the ecclesiastics of . the seminary of Quebec, to vrhom these lands be- 4 k)iig, retire in autumn. j Between the cape and the adjoining mountainsj j a lake is formed, the height of whose situation is several hundred feet above the level of the Saint I L.< wrence. The parish of Saint Joachim is popu- j ious, and the soil is rich ; being equally adapted \ to pasturage, and to cultivation. It is separated frora the parish of Saint Anne, by a stream of considerable magnitude, called A/ Grande Eiviere^^ \ or the Saint Anne. In travelling to the interior settlements, after ] having ascended two steep and iofty banks, or ele- i vations from one plain to another, the road is con- j tinned for upvv^ards of four miies through a forest \ composed of poplar, birch, beech, fir, and ash '\ trees, in which tiiere are some ot Ciiings, disclos- \ ing an elevated mountain, \ The settlement of S^iiiu f eriole extends itself for : ilear nine miles <>vcr a caiDiin gradually ascendip.g, whose superior altitude ontributes to increase the cold of the climate, and to reader the la id less productive. Necessity has induced an hun- dred families to fix their abode in this remote si- tuation, where, if their industry be less copiously rewarded, and if the coid, which predominates longer in winter, and commences much earlier in autumn than in the lower parts, sometimes check the vegetation of grain, and impede its advance- ment to maturit}^ there is, notwithstanding, no appearance of indigence among the inhabitants. On turning his eyes towards the country he has already passed, the traveller is gratified by a luxuriant and diversified assemblage of objects, which, like a chart, seems to expand itself be- neath. x\fter descending a hill clothed with trees, and of about seven hundred feet in perpendicular elevation, we gained the side of the river which llovvs through this settlement, and of which we have already spoken. There are no less than se- ven falls of this river, v/hich are near to each, o- ther; and are formed in its current from the summit, to the basis of a steep and lofty moun- tain, after having held its course for a distance of several miles, along a ridge of high lands. The stream does not exceed forty yards in width, and the principal and lower fall, which is on the nor^th- east, is one hui^lred and thirty feet high It has formerly flowed through another channel, in which 104 NORTH C^OAST OF THE it has been obstructed by fallen rocks, and also partly by a dam or dyke, which the industry and sagacity of the beaver, teach it to form, frequent- ly across the channels of rivers. The ancient bed is plainly discoverable by the deep ravines, worn, at different stages, on the side of the moun- tain, and by a valley near the lower fall. Although, in almost the whole of the cataracts in Lower Canada, a certain similarity of effect is discoverable, the precipices over which they pour their waters being nearly perpendicular : and al- though these sublime objects so frequently occur, that the impression which novelty produces on the mind, is thereby in a great degree weakened ; yet each is distinguishable by peculiar features. The accumulated waters in the spring of the year, by abrading, and sweeping down, portions of the solid rock, incessantly produce alterations, and thus enlarge the channel, or render it more deep. The landscape v/hich environs this fall, is grand and romantic. The banks are rugged, steep, and wild, being covered with a variety of trees. Below, large and irregular masses of limestone rock, are piled upon each other. Not one half of the mountain can be seen by the spectator, when stationed by the side of the river. The whole of the waters of the fall, are not immediate- ly received into the basin beneath ; but a hollow rock, about fifteen feet high receives a ]~:art, which glides from thencej in the form of a sectioia SAINT LAWRENCE. 105 ©fa sphere. The river, throughout the remain- der of its course, is solitary, wild, and broken ; and presents other scenes worthy of observation. The parishes of Saint Anne and Chateau Rich- er, are situated under a bank varying in height, extending from Saint Joachim to Ange Gardien, and from thence to the fail of iVlontmorenci. At the summit of this bank, the land rises by degrees, iLintil it gains the mountains, and is in a state of eultiv.ition A stream, called Dog river, divides S'.iint Aane from Chateau Richer : and in the lat- ter parish the small river La Puce joins the Saint Lawrence. The former would scarcely deserve to be mentioned, if it were not for the curious and cendino" its course. The lower fall is one hun- dred and twelve feet in height : and Its baisks^ formed by elevated acclivities, wooded to their summits, spread around a solemn gloom, Vv hich the whiteness, the movements, and the noise of the descending waters, contribute to render interesting and attractive. Besides the last, two other falls are formed by the higher stages of the mountain, where the river, confined in narrower compass, glides over less steep decli- vhies. At the distance of two miles, in ascend- ing the channel, another cataract appears, pour« ing over masses of limestone rock, and assuming different directions in its descent. The environs of this river display, in mimaiure, a succession of 106 XORTH COAST OF THE romantic views. The banks near its mouth, are almost pej'pendicuiar, and partly denuded of vege- ttition, being composed of a dark lime-slate-like substance, which is in a state of continual decay. In vain would the labours of art endeavour to produce iti the gardens of palaces, beauties, v.'hich the hand of nature scatters in the midst of unfi^e- quented Vvilds. The river, fi'om about one- fourth of the height of the mountain, discloses itself to the contemplation of the spectator ; and delights his eye with varied masses of shining foam, which, suddenly issuing from a deep ravine hollov/cd out by the waters, glide down the almost perpendicu- lar rock, and form a splendid curtain, which loses itself aiuid the foliage of surrounding woods. Such is the scene which the fall of La Puce ex- hibits, when viewed from the summit of a bank on the eastern side of the river. TIjC settlement of Chateau Richer, derives its name from the ruins of an edifice situated on a small rocky point, on the borders of the Saint Lawrence, It was a Franciscan monastery, when the army un- der General Wolfe encamped on the eastern bank of the Montmorenci. As the monks used their iirnuence among the inhabitants in their vicrnity , to impede a supply of provisions for the English ar- niv, it was deemed necessarv to send thither a de-^ tachment to make them prisoners. They had so forlitied themselves within their mansion, that ueld pieces uxre required to compel them to a SAINT LAWRENCE. 107 ^irrender. Tae house was destroyed by fire : and nothing now remains, except a part oi the walls, and the ruins of an adjoining tower, which was formerly a wind- mill. By an inscription a- hove the door, it appears to have been built one hundred and twelve years ago. The parish church is placed on a bank, immediately behmd the cha- teau, and has two spires. The ruins already de- scribed, the great river, the island of Orleans, the point of Ange Gardien, and Cape Diamond in the distance, compose an agreeable scene. Toward the east, a yet happier combination of objects presents itself. On the^ left, are the ruins of the monastery, the church, banks cloth- ed with foliage, and the lower grounds studded w^ith white cottages ; over which Cape l^our- ment, and the chain of mountains whose termi- nation it forms, tow er w ith exalted majesty. The rocks which in part compose the moun- tains, consist of a quartz, of the colour of amber, mixed with a black, small-grained glimmer, black horn stone, and a few minute grains of brown spar, The stone is generally compact, and resists the operation of fire. Some of these rocks are a mixture of white quartz and black glimmer, witii grains of brown spar. Lake Saint Charles is sup]>lied by the river of the same name ; and diffuses itself over an extent of fiat lands, bounded by mountains, about lour- teen miles to tiie northward of Quebec. In ^o- 108 £AI:*E SAINT CHARLES. ing thither, the road passes over a mountain, from vv hence is oj>ened an extensive view oi the great river and its banks On arriving at the vicinity of the lake, the spec- tator is dehghted by the beauty and picturesque wiiciness of its banks. It is, around smaii col- lections ol water like this, that nature is display- ed to the highest advantage. The extent oi liie lake is about five miles: and it is almost divided into t\\ o, by a neck of land, which lorms a nar- row passage, nearly at the center. Trees grow immediately on the boiders of the water, ^hich is iiidented by several points advancing into it, and forming little bays. The lofty hills which suddenly rise towards the north, in shapes, sin- gular and diversified, are overlooked by moun- tains which exalt beyond them, their more dis- tant summits. The effect produced by clouds, is here solemn and sublime, pitrticularly during thunder stcrmis, when they float in rugged masses, around the tops of ilje hills, whose caverns, and defiles, re-echo to the trcmLiing forests, the hoarse and awful roar. About tliree miles from the lake, in a valley amid prccipitt us mountains, a settlement was be- gun a fevi } ears ago. Its situation is highly ro- m antic, being watered by several streams, and likewise by the Saint Charles, whose banks, throughout its w mding course, to the lake, are adoi ued w ith a variety of scenery. Mns. SAINT LAWaEjreE". li^ CHAPTER VL €!ountry to the westward of ^lehec — Lake Calmer e^^ the Jacques Cartier — romantic scenenj which it dis- plays — toivn of Three Rivers — Lake Saint Peter- town of IVilliani Henry — river Chambhj — Island oj 'Montreal — religious orders^ and their establish^ ments — view from the summit oJ the mountains — Indian village of *he Sauh Saint Louis — La Chine-^ JLake Saint Louis— <:ascades— ^rapids of the cedars — ' of the Coteau Du Lacf — Lake Saint Fra?icis — cas- cades of the Long Sault — multitude of isles„ IN ascending the Saint Lawrence from Que- bec to Montreal, the country on either side that river, becomes less diversilied, but more dch in soil, and more improved in cultivation, as the tra- veller advances. The banks, which are abrupt and precipitous, open into several litde bays, inter- mixed with rocks, woods, and settlements. Oa the north side, at the distance of two miles from the town, is Wolfe's Cove, the place at which the celebrated GenercU of that name disembarked liis army, previous to the battle on the heights of A- braham. On the summit of the western bank of this litde bay, stands a handsome house, built by General Powell, whose situation, together with the sha.ly walks by which it is surroundiid, re'i- lers it a pleasing retreat. K 110 BANKS or THE From hence to Cape Rouge, the scenery, oix account of its beauty and variety, attracts the at- tention of the passenger. At Siliery, a league from Quebec, on the north shore, are the ruins of an establishment, which was begun in 1637. Intended as a religious institution for the conver- sion and instruction of natives of the country, it ivas at one time inhabited by twelve French fa- milies. The buildings are placed upon level ground, sheltered by steep banks, and close by the borders of the river. They now consist only of two old stone-houses, fallen to decay, and of the remains of a small chapeL* In this vicinitj^, the Algonquins once had a village. Several of their tumuli, or burying-places, are still discover- able in the woods : and hieroglyphics cut on the trees, remain in some situations, yet unefiaced. Cape Rouge is a lofty bank, suddenly declining to a valley, through which a small river, the dis- charge of a lake, situated among the mountains on the north, runs into the Saint Lawrence. A slate-stone, of a reddish colour, easily mouldering into thin shivers, is found at the surface, on the summit of the bank. A part of the borders of the river Chaudiere, on the opposite coast, con- sists of the same substance. The distance from Quebec to this cape, is eight miles: and, tovvards the aiorth, a bank pa- * The ch.pel has of late been repaired and fitted up for a malt-= ^ouse, and some of the other buildings have be^n converted into e brewery. SAINT LAWRENCE. Ill iaiiel to that on the great river, but of inferior ele- vation, extends throughout that space, and joins llie promontory. The mean interval between these acclivities, is about a mile and a half Tlie level, and in some situatiojis, swampy lands, on the north of this eminence, wdiich in many places abound in stones, apparently formed in the bed of a river, afibrd probable grounds for conjec- ture, that a portion of the waters of the Sdint Lawrence, formerly flowed between the heights of Saint Augustin and Cape Rouge, directiiig their course along the valley, insulating tlie pa- rishes of Quebec and Saint Foix, and re-uniting at the place where the Saint Charles empties itself into the basin. The low space between the high grounds now mentioned, is about half a mile in breadth ; and, by a disclosure of the distant mountains, presents to the eye an agreeable variety. On the opposite coast, at the mouth of the small river Saint Ni- cholas, a charming combinatiori of picturesque objects is afforded. A part of tiic bank here ru ses to the height of about five iKindred itQt, and is clothed with trees. The little river rolls with foaming swiftness into the Saint Lawrence, and turns, with a portion of its Vvaters, corn mills of considerable extent. Two beautiful waterfalls, at no great distance from each other, are to be seen upon this river. At Point Levi, and likewise at the Etchemin, 112 BANK'S OF THE on the south side oi the great river, there are cofu mills upGii an enlarged scale, which beic ng to the same proprietor, as those of Saint Nicholas. Lake Caiviere, on the north shore, is a collec- tiovr of water, about two rniies in length, whiose borders are diversified by woods and cultivated i-ields. Viewed froni the river, the church aid rniii of St, x\ugustin, placed beneath steep banks, richly wooded, com])ose a pleasing scene. Foiiite aux Trembles^ a village oi some extent, Bcvcn leagues from Quebec, is situated under a bank, from whence a quantity of meadow lajid spreads down to tlie coast. It contains a small ;:oinent of nuns, r.nd a neat church, Tlii'ough a contracted valley formed by acclivL ties steep and abiiipt, the Jacques Cartier sw^eeps with impetuosity, over a rocky andinterrupted bed, its broken and sonorous current. The distance thither from Quebec, is thirty miles. The navi- gator who first explored the Saint Lawrence, as far as Montreal, here wintered in 1536 : and from ihis occurrence, his name has been given to the stream. The breadth of its mouth is about three hundred yards : and contiguous to it, there are ex- tensive corn miills, worked by water conveyed from a considerable distance, along an aqueduct, under which the road to the ferry passes. The ferrymen traverse the boats from one side to the other, by a strong rope fixed to posts, on account o£ the rapidity of the waters. 0\\ the suijmat of 3AIKT LAWRENCE. IIS the hill, at the western side of the ferry, are tlie remains of an earthen redoubt, which was con- structed by the French in 1760. Here, as well as higher up the course of the river, an uncom^ mon wildness is displayed :• and the stream is fre- quently broken into cascades, particularly in the vicinity of the new^ bridge, where its channel is confined by rugged rocks, some of which are excavated in a singular manner, by the incessant operation of the furious torrent. During the sum- mer months, salmon are here caught in abun«r dance. The church of Cape Sante with the opposite' coast, which assumes a singular shape, together with the point of Dechambault, and the vast sheet of water intervening, exhibit a pleasing combina- tion of distant objects. At the latter situation, the principal bed of the Saint Lawrence is con- . fined to a narrow, winding, and intricate course^ which, at the reflux of the tide, has a considera* bie descent. At high water, much caution is re- quired, in conducting through it, a vessel of bur- den, astlie channel on either side is shallow, and abounds with concealed rocks. The Saint Anne is of considerable width, but of ;)0 great depth : and its current is scarcely per ceptible, at the place where it is crossed by tra^ vellers. The want of bridges o^^er most of these streams, is a great inconvenience, their passage m the Bering and at the commeRccmeat of wiri^ 114 TOWN OF ter, being sometimes attended with peril, from ffe Qiuiiitities of loose and floating ice. The Battiscan contains not so much water as the last, but is more deep and rapid. An iron foundry has, within these few years, been esta- bhshed on its banks The town of Three Rivers is situated upon a paint of land, near the confluence with the Saint Lawrence, of the stream from which it derives its name. It extendi about three quarters of a mile 5 along the north bank of the former. The surrounding country is flat : and its soil is com- posed of sand, mixed with black mould. In the mouth of the stream, there are two islands, which divide it into three branches. On ascending its course, the borders become Vv ild and picturesque. The towri was indebted for its original establish^ ment to the profits arising from the commerce for peltry, which, in the infancy of the colony, was carried on by the natives, through the course of this river, which flows from the north-east, for a distance of three hundred miles. Thither, va- idous tribes of these savages, descended from the vicinity of Hudson's bay, and the country inter* fening' between that and the Saint LawrencCo Attracted by the advantages w^hich the agreea- ble situation of the place, and tlie rendezvous for traffic, presented, several French families hera established themselves. The proximity of the Iro^ qviois, a nation which cherished aa irreconcilea^ 1*HREE RiVERSf. 115? ble hostility to the French, suggested the necessi- ty of constructing a fortr and the district of Three Rivers became, at length, a separate go^ vernment. After a lapse of some years, the na- tives who traded to this place, harassed and ex- posed to continual danger, from the frequent ir- ruptions of that warlike nation, discontinued their accustomed visits. The town contains a convent of Ursulines, to which is adjoined a parochial church, and an hos- pital It was founded in 1677 by M. de Saint Vallier, bishop of Quebec, for the education of young women, and as an asyluni for the poor and sick. A superior and eighteen nuns now possess it ; and discharge the functions of this humane institution. A monastery of Recollets also formed one of the religious edifices of this place, but that order has been for some time extinct. As there are several protestant inhabitants in the town, it is the residence of a rector : and di^ Tine service is regularly performed agreeably to the rites of the established church of England. On the banks of the river already mentioned^ and bout nine miles up its course, an iron foun- dry, which was first worked in 1737^ is situated. The manufacture of ore into cast, as well as ham*' merediron, isliere carried on to a considerable extent. 1 he works, and the soil in which the ^e is found? are the property of government^ 116 LAKE SAINT PETE'R. and they are rented b} a compiiiiy at QuebecTj on lease, at the rate of eight huiidred pounds per annum. The ore lies in horizontal strata, and near the surface. It is composed of masses, ea- sily detached from each other, perforated, and the holes filled \\'ith ochre. It possesses softness, and friability : and for promoting its fusion, a grey limestone, found in its vicinity, is used. Tne hammered iron is soft, pliable, and tenacious ; and has the quality of being but little subject to the iniiuence of rust. The latter property is probably derived from the materials en:ipIoyed in its fusion. For this purpose, wood only is appli- ed, which is highly prefei^ble to mineral coal. Lake Saint Peter is formed by an expansion of the waters of the Saint Lmvrence, to the breadth of from liiteen to twenty miles : and its length is twenty-one miles. It is in general, of small depth , many parts of the channel being not more than ten or eleven feet deep : and it sometimes occurs, that large vessels here run aground. 1 he tide scarcely extends as far up as tlie town of Three Eivers, which is near two leagues farther down than the lake : and the current in the latter is extremely laint. Several small rivers here dis- charge their waters ; among which are the Ma- clikhe, Du Loup, and Masquenonge, on die north, and the Nicoiet and Saint Francis, en the south. On the banks of the latter, an ladiini vil- lage of the same nanie^ is situated, peopled by part- RIVER CHAMBLr. IIT ©f the Ablnaquis tribe, among whom a n;isVrjii- ary and an interpreter reside. At the upper end of the lake, a variety of s'Ti:ill isla-ids is interspersed ; some of which are partly cleared of their woods, and afford rich pastLira;^c for cattle. In the spring and autumn, they a- bound in wild fowl, particularly in ducks. These are the only islands that occur in the channel of the great river, from Orleans, to this situation, a distance of about a hundred and seventeen miles- From hence to lake Ontario, it is frequently vari- ed by clusters of islands, some of which are of great beauty and fertility. The town of William Henry, or Sorel, in lati^ iude45° 55', longitude 73^22', is agreeably si- tuated at the confluence of the Sorel or Chambly river, with the Saint Lawrence, and contains a protestant and a Roman catholic church. The Sorel takes its rise from lake Champlain ; and, directing its course towards the north, runs through a fertile and pleasant country, v/here its borders are adorned by several valuable and pro-^ ductive farms. On the site of the town, a fort was constructed in 1665, by M. de Tracy, vice- roy of New France, as a defence against the irrup- tion of the Iroquois. M. de Sorel, a captain, su- perintended its execution : and from him this part of the river received its name, Betv/een ii.ke Champlain, and the junction of this stream with the Saint Lawrenpe, there are two forts situated 118 RIVER CHAMBLY. on its banks, the one called Saint John, compo^ sed of cedar pickets and earth, the other, Cham- bly, built of stone in a quadrangular form, and having the appearance of a castle. It is the onl}* edifice in North America, which has any resem- blance to that ancient mode of structure. Saint John is a frontier garrison : and a company of in- lantr}^, and some artillery, are generally stationed in it. As the channel 6f ^intercourse between iviontreai and the United States of America, is principally through this post, a collector, and comptroller of the customs, always reside here^ The country around Chambly, exhibits a roman- tic aspect. The river, in this part shallow, broken and diffused, rushes down a declivity interrupted bv rocks. An extensive and elevated mountain, of a pleasing shape, rears itself aloft, in the midst of level lands ; and confines, between its conical summits a lake of pure Vv'ater. In the months of June and July, great quantities of timber and boards formed into rafts, frequently of tw^o or three hundred feet in length, are floated down thfs ri- ver, from the borders of lake Champlain. These materials are used in ship-building ; and are also exported to England. Bcrthier, a settlement on the north banks of the great river, is extensive, populous, and rich in soil. The numerous islands, which afford pasturage and shade in summer to horses and cattle, contribute much to the beauty of the situ- THE SAINT LAWRENCE. 119 ation. Some of these islands are of consideral^Ie size ; and contain a number of inhabitants. The country is here not diversified by inequalities of surface : but the bounty of the soil compensates for the absence of grandeur in scenery. The village of Vercheres presents itself on the south bank : and about two leagues farther, in ascending, another settlement, named Varennes, is placed on a point of land ; and contains a hand- some church with two spires. The countr)' in this quarter, increases in population : and villa- ges are more frequent. Some of the islands in this part of the river are so flat, that in the spring they are ovei-flowed by the waters. Those whose elevated situation exempts them from this incon- venience, are cultivated and inhabited. In some reasons, the buildings are subject to be injured by enormous masses of ice, which meet with ob- struction in their passage. They then become accumulated, one upon another, sometimes to a^ astonishing height : and the pieces which are up- permost, impelled by the impetus of the current acting upon those in their rear, are thus carried for a considerable way upon the islands, bearing down, or cutting asunder in their progress, every intervening object. In this manner, houses as *vvell as barns, have been destroyed. A particular species of grass, which is long and rank, called by the Canadians, /' herde an lien, grows upon some of the islands. This forms a I!20 MONT? FA 2.. very durable covering ior stiibles and barns': an3 a rt)of composed of it, will last for many years, without the want of repair. At a few miles dis- tance froni Varennes. near a hill which rises in the midst of plains, the village of Boucherville is si- tuated. It is inhabited by people oi the most an- cient families in the country, whose means are not affluent, but who in this retreat, enjoy among themselves an agreeable society. On tlie north side of the Saint Lawrence, the road to Montreal is interrupted by a branch of the Outaouais, or grand river, which is about a mile in width between Repent igni, and the point of the ishmd.* ' It encompasses with its waters tl"ie isles de Jesus, Perrot, and Bissart ; and washes the northern coast of the island of Montreal, which is surrounded by it, and the Saint Lawrence. The •first of these isles was formerly named Montmag* ny, after one of the governors of the province : but on its being conceded to the Jesuits, it receiv- ed its present appellation. From that order, it passed to the members of the seminary, by whom it Vv'ds first settled. The channel which separates the islands, is denominated la riviere des Prairies- bei '-" on e' i er side, bordered by m.eadows. * A wooden bridge, on the model of that which was built over the Rhine ax Schauffhaii^er, has lately been constructed from Repen- tigiH lo an ible in the chanr^el : and anolher bridge of the samedes- cripiion ih new erec'ir.C';, ^o torm a con.munication between the otlier side ol that isicj aiwi tlie'cortU-ev-^stend of the island of Mont« real. '.ihc Stream, to\var*ls the centre of the island becomes rapid and broken : and this particuLir place is distinguished by the name of San It au Recollet^ a member of tkit fraternity having there peHshed. The ecclesiastics of the seminary of IMontreal, had formerly, in this vicinity, a mis- sion for the conversion of the natives : but they afterwards removed it to the Lake of the Two Mountains. The third branch of the rivcf on the north, is interspersed with such a number of isles, that tliere appears as much land as water. At the head of the isle Jesus, is the small island Bizart, called after a Swiss officer, to whom ii belonged. Somewhat higher, tov/ards the south, stands isle Perrot, deriving its name from the first governor of Montreal. It is almost round ; and is six miles in diameter. The former isle terminates the lake of the Two Mountains : and the latter separates this lake from that of Saint Louis, which is onlv an extension of the river Saint LawTence ; and was, for a series of years, the limit of the French colony towards the west. The length of the island of Montreal is thirty miles, and its mean breadth about seven, its cir- cumference being seventy miles. It may be said to owe its original settlement to the Abbe Quetus, who, in 1657, arrived from France, accompanied by deputies of the seminary of Saint Sulpicius, to take possession of this spot, and here to fouu^ L I-:^ MONTilLAL. ii sen-iinaiy. The other inhabitants of the colony were gratified to find, that a body of men bo res- pectable, had undertaken to clear, and settle an Island, the eftorts of whose first possessors, had hitherto been too languid. The seignorial rights of that fertile and valuable tract of territory, are still vested in the representatives of the order of Saint Sulpicius, Vv4iich in France, was swept away in the revolutionary torrent. The city of Montreal, in latitude 45^ 33', lon- gitude 73^ 37', is placed on the south side of the island of the same name, v/hose banks are here from ten to fifteen feet high, from the level of the water. It is built in the form of a parallelogram, extending from north to south. A deep and ra- pid current fiows between the shore and the island of Saint Helen. A strong north-east wind is therefore necessary, to carry vessels up to the town : and when that is wanting, they remain at anchor, at the lower end of the stream. This in- convenieixe might have been obviated, had the city been buiit about a mile below its present site, at a jvlace called the Cross. Th^^ original found- er ^ w ere enjoined by the government of France, to make choice of a situation as high up the river, as large vessels could be navigated : and it appears that the injuriction was literally obeyed... The streets are airy, and reguiarl}' disposed, one of diem extending nearly paraikl to the river, through the whole length of the place. 1 he} are MONTilEAL. 1:23 of sufficient width, btiiig intersected at riglit an- gles, by several smaller streets, which descend from west to east. The upper street is divided into two, by tlie Roman Cadiolic church, adjoin- ing to which, theie is a large open square called the Place d'Armes, The habitations of the principal merchants are neat and commodious : and their storehouses are spacious, and secured against risque from fsres. They are covered with sheet iron or tin. Without this precaution, as the roofs of dvvelhngs )n Canada are usually formed of boards, and some- times with the exterior addition of shingles, they would, in summer, become highly combustible from witiiout, and liable to ignition from a small spark of lire. The houses which are protected in tlie f:.)rmer manner, will last, without need of repairs, for a considerable number of} ears. . The town was inclosed by a stone fortification, \vhich having long fallen to ruins is now in i- great measure levelled, or removed. ' It wa§ thus .or- tificd, to guard its inhabitants against the frequent irruptions of the Iroquois : and the walls v^ere never in a state to resist the attack of a regidar army. An act of the colonial legislature, Avas some time ago passed, for their total demolition. This has in a great degree been carried into eifect : and the place is nov/ rapidly im])roving in exten- sion as vrell as in neatness of edifices Montreal is divided mto the upper and lower 324 MONTilEAL. lov/ns,- althougli the dinerence of level between them, exceeds not twelve or fifteen feet. In the latter are the public market, held twice in the week, and tlie Hotel Dieu. The upper town con- tains the cathedral, the English church, the con- ■v-ent of Recollets, that of the sisters of Notre Dame, the Seminary, the Government house, and the new Court of Law. The religious edifices are constructed with more solidity than taste : and all of them are possessed of extensive gardens The Hotel Dieu, founded by Madame de Bou- illon in 1644, has a superior and thirty nuns, v/hose principal occupation consists in administer- ing relief to the sick, Vvho are received into that hospital. A large room in the upper part of the building, is appropriated as a ward for female, and one immediately under it, for male patients. As the institution was intended for public benefit, ihe medicines v/ere, during the French govern- ment, supplied at the expence of the crown. The fund by which it was supported, being vest- ed in Paris, was lost in consequence of the revo- Jution. Its present slender sources are chiefly derived from some property in land. The General Hospital stands on the banks of '^lie river, and is separated from the town by a small rivulet. It ovres its establishment, in 1753. to a widov/ lady named Youville. It contains a Rupenor, and nineteen nuns. A natural wharf, very near to thetcvvn, is form- MONTREAL, 125 ^d by the depth of the stream, and the sudden declivity of the bank. The envh'ons of Montreal are composed of four streets extending m different directions. That of Quebec on the north, Saint Lawrence towards ths west, and the Recollet and Saint Antoine towards the south; in the latter is placed the college, v/hich has been lately rebuilt. These, together with the tow^n, contain about twelve thousand inhabitants. The mountain is about two miles and a half dis«^ tant from the town. The land rises, at first by gentle gradations, and is chiefly occupied for gar* dens and orchards, producing apples and pears of a superior quality. The more steep parts of the mountain, continue to be shaded by their native woods. The northern extremity, which is the most lofty, assumes a more abrupt acclivity with a conical form : and the remains of the cra- ter of a volcano, are found among the rocks. This elevated spot, about seven hundred feet above the level of the rivers is of a long shape; and extends upwards of two miles from north to south, subsiding towards the centre, over which a road passes, and again rising in rugged masses, clothed with trees. A house and gcirdens. belonging to, and occupied by the members of the Seminary, are agreeably situated on the eastern declivity. The scene displayed from the summirof the mountain, which is the only eminence on the isU h2 126 MONTREAL and, IS, on every side, extensive and nch. The city of Montreal, the cultivated lai ds, die habita- tions interspersed among trees ; the great river rapidly dashing into clouds of \\ hite foam, over the rocks of La Chine, and sweeping its silver course around a variety of islands ; the Icjfty mountain of Chambly, with those of Beleuil, and Bouchervilie, compose the scenery towards the east- That on the north, though of equal fertility j. is less diversified. The most fovourable view of the town, is from the opposite Island of Saint Helen, where the mountain appears in the back ground. The east- ern coast of the river, on which is Longueuil, Saint Lambert, and la Prairie de la Madelene, is well cultivated and thickJy inhabited. At the breaking up of the winter, the buildings of the town, which are situated near the river^ are sometimes subject to damage, by theaccumu- latifm of large fragments of ice, impelled by the rapidity of the current, aire . dy described. Montreal being placed one degree and sixteen minutes south from Quebec, enjoys a more fa- vourable climate. The soil is richer, and the du- ration of winter is not so long at the former place, as at the latter, by the space of six weeks. This superiority, with respect to climate and soil, ren- der;^ it preferable to Quebec, as a place of constant residence. The markets are more abundantly supplied : and the articles of living, are sold at a JlONTREAt. 127 tnore reasonable price, especially during winter, when the inhabitants of the United States, who re- side»upon lands bordering on Lower Canada, bring for sale, a part of the produce of their farms. Quantities of cod, and of other fish, in a frozen state, are likewise conveyed thither in sleighs, from Boston. The island contains nine parishes, Saint Lau- rent, Saint Genevieve, Saint Anne, Pointe Clare, Pointe aux Trembles, Longue Pointe, Sault aux Recollet, Riviere des Prairies, and La Chine. La Chine, situated on the south east side of the island, is the place from whence all the mer- chandise and stores for Upper Canada, are em- barked in bateaux, to proceed up the course of the Saint Lawrence ; and in birch canoes, to as- cend the Outaouais, or Grand River. The store- houses which belong to the commissary depart- ment, are situated at the upper part of the Sault Saint Louis. Those of the merchants, and of the Indian department, are placed about two miles higher up, on the borders of the river. During the summer season, bateaux are frequently pass- ing between this place, and Kingston in Upper Canada. The settlement of La Chine, received its name^ from a plan which had been projected, of pene- trating through the continent of North America, to China, the persons engaged in the enterprize, having embarked at this spot* 128 idONTllEAL. The cliief barriers of Montreal and its omU fons, for many years after the date of its estab- lishment, were two villages of Iroquois Chris- tians, and the fort of Chambly. The first, and most considerable village, is that of the Sault Saiut Louis, situated on the border of the rivcr^ opposite La Chine, and about lour leagues from the city. It has twice changed its site, but has never been removed more than four miles from its former position. The church, and the dwell- ing of the missionary, are protected towards the. north and south, by a stone wall, in which there are loop-holes for musquetry. The village, which is composed of about a hundred and fifty houses, built of stone, contains upwards of eight hundred inhabitants, who are not less dirty and slovenly in their persons, than in their habitations. This mission is considered as the most extensive of any of those among the domiciliated natives, in Canada. Its original settlers, belonging to the tribe of Iroquois, or Mohawks, were converted to Christianity, and fixed there by missionaries, when the French colony in Canada was feeble in population, and circumscribed in extent. The principal support of these Indians, is derived from the cultivation of their grounds, and breed" ing hogs and poultry, more than irom fishing and thechace. Their natural indolence will not, howe- ver, permit them to acquire habits of regular in- dustry and labour. This insuperable aversion to MONTREAL. 120 a life of activity, they dignify with the title of in- depeadence, annexing to most of the employments ©f civilized life, the idea of slavery. Their hunting grounds are at a considerable distance from their settlement ; lying in the ter- ritory of the United States, around Fort George, Ticonderago and Crown Point ; and extending sometimes along the coast of the Saint Lawrence, as far as the bay of Chaleurs. About one- third ef the inhabitants of the village, descend in winter, to hunt in those quarters. The wild animals, with v»hich these regions formerly abounded, have now become extremely rare, not only from the immense numbers that have been killed, but on account of the increase of settlements and po- pulation. Multitudes which the ehace had yet spared, were driven in quest of a secure retreat^ to the more remote forests. The transport of merchandise and other arti* eles, from the island of Montreal to Kingston in Upper Canada, is, it has been remarked, conduct- ed by means of bateaux, or flat-bottomed boatsj narrow at each extremity, and constructed of fir planks Each of these being about forty feet in length, and six feet aei'oss the widest part, gene- rally contains twenty five barrels, or aproportion^ ate number of bales of blankets, cloths, or linens, and is capable of conveying, nine thousand pounds wdght. Four men and a guide, compose the number of hands allotted for vvorking a bateau. 130 MONTREAL. These are supplied with provisions, and widi rum ; and are allowed trom eight to eleven dol- lars each, for the voyage to Kingston, and from thence down again to La Chine, the time of per- forming which, is from ten to tw-eive days. The wages of tlie pilot or guide amount to twelve or fourteen dollars. Each bateau is supplied with a mast and sail, a grappling iron, v/ith ropes, sett- ing poles, and utensils for cooking. The ba- teaux when loaded, take tlieir departure from La Chine, in number, from four, to eight or ten to- gether, that the crews may be enabled to alTord aid to each other, arnid the difficulties and labo- rious exertions required in effecting this voyage. About fift} bateaux are employed on this route j and bring down for the objects of commerce VvTiich are conve3ed up, wheat, flour, salted pro-, visions, peltry, and potash. From twenty to thirty bateaux are likewise kept in the service of government, for transport- ing necessaries for the troops, and stores for the engineer department ; likewise articles of Euro- pean manufaciure, which are every year distribute ed in presents to the Indian U'lbes. I'here arc thus engaged about three hundred and fifty men, whose occupation it is, during the sultry months of summer, to struggle against the most tremen- dous rapids. Besides these, near four hundred men ascend inbi'rk ca-ioes, by the grand river of ^he OutaouaJSj m a direct course to Saint J»>=» THE CASCADES. 131 seph's on Lake Huron, and from thence to the new establishment on Lake Superior, called Ka- ma nastigua. Lake Sahit Louis, formed by the junction of part of the Outaouais river with the Saint Law- rence, is about ten miles in width ; and contains the isle Perrot. already noticed, surrounded by the waters of the former, which, for a considera- ble way down, mingle not with those of the latter^ a circumstance which is evinced by the di£brence in their colours. 1 he parish of Chateau- gay e, and several small islands, occupy the south-east side of the lake, into which the cascades iuriously pour their billows, and seem to prohibit lo the traveller, any further prot^ress by water. The bateaux are conducted to the western side ; and ascend the first locks, at the top of which they arc unloaded ; and the goods are carted i'lom. thence, along a road on the borders of tlie river, •as far as the village of the Cedars, a distance of five miles. Artificers and labourers, under the direction of a royal engineer, have, for some urne past, been employed on the extension and im- provement of these locks, which, when complet- ed, V7iil much tend to faciliUite the transport, and communication with the u])]}er country. The cascades are about tuo miles in length; aj id ftow among three different islands. The ra- pidity an.d lorce of the stream, arising from the great declivity of its bed, audthe number of rocks 132 THE CE2)All&, and cavities M'hich it contains, cause it to break in* to masses of white foam, moving in a direction the reverse of that of waves produced in a trou- bled ocean, by the agency of storms. They curl their resplendent tops, towards the quarter from whence they are impelled. The mind of a stran- ger IS filled with admiration, on beholding, in the calmest and finest weather, all the noise, effect, and agitation, which the most violent conflict be- tween the winds and waters, is capable of exhi- biting. In a branch of these cascades, near the locks ©n the western shore, several bateaux, loaded with soldiers belonging to the army under the com- mand of the late Lord Amherst, were lost in i 760, through the ignorance of the pilots who under- took to conduct them. Somewhat higher up, on the same coast of the river, and not far from the land, is the Split Rock, close to which, tliQ boats pass in descending. The current sweeps along the side of this rock : and great attention in steering is required ; for, on a too near approach, the bateau would be subject to the danger of be- ing lost. The rapids of the Cedars are about three miles distant from the highest part of the Cascades i and are formed amid a cluster of islands. The river, for about a mile and a half above, assumes a sudden declivity and a winding course. An awful and solemn effect is produced, by the incos»« THE £EDARS» 133 sant sound, and rapid motion of the ever-swelling waves, which, covered witii tfFulgeut whiteness, drive along with irresistible fury. The empty ba- teaux are here dragged successively with ropes, by the joint eftbrts oi eight or ten men to each, wiitj walk up the shore, until they arrive at the viilige, near which these rapids commence. In descending, the bateaux are steered near the ^ ext- ern shore, to avoid the tremendous and more broken swell, which in some places, is interspers- ed with rocks. Although this course is not un- accompanied by danger, the Canadians are in e- nerai so experienced and expert, that an accid at almost never occurs. The village of the Cedars is charmingly situat- ed on the banks of the Saint Lawrence ; it con-^ tains a church, and about fifty houses. The ap- pearance of the waters, and or the rich and verdant islands around which they wind their course, ex- hibits an assemblage uncommonly interestino- : and the glistening rapids of the Coteaii du Lac^ give a lively termination to the scene. The cur- rent from the latter place, to the Cedars^ is, in most situations so powerful, that the bateau men are necessitated to make use of their setting poles, which are about seven feet in length, and shod with iron. As the current impels the vessC; tow- ards the shore, the men place them along that side which is inwards ; and push it forward, by the pressure of each upon his poll, at the same m- M 134 eOTEAU DU LAC. stant. The bateau, by these united efforts, is forc- ed up the stream : and the impulsive movement is continued, by thus setting the poles in the bed of the waters, and by a reiteration of the same exertions. This operation, although fatiguing and laborious in the extreme, they will prolong for the space of several liours. When the cur- rent is too powerful for the use of poles, the ba- teau is dragged by a long rope, the men engag- ed in this office, walking, as has been before des- cribed, along the banks of the river. In the less rapid streams, the oars are used : and when the wind is favourable, and the current not strong, recourse is had to the sail. At the Coteau du Lac Saint Francois, the ba- teaux again ascend by locks, where a certain du- ty is payable on spirituous liquors, wines, and some other articles, imported into Upper Cana- da, although the limits of that province are plac- ed some miles higher up. By the interposition of islands, the river here divides itself into three considerable branches, in which the furious, noisy waters, dashing widi ceaseless impetuosity, cover the surface of the .streams with broken clouds of foam, 'i'he ba- teaux, in descending, pass close under the banks of an island opposite to the locks ; and present to a stranger who may be looking from the shore, a singular appearance, as they are cmy partially discoverable, while darting along, amid the swelU LAKE ST. FRANCIS. 135 ing and agitated torrent. After passing a point of land above the rapids, Lake Saint Francis dis- closes itself to the eve. On the north side, and about the middle of its extent, is situated Poinie an Bodety the boundary between the two provin- ces ; Vv4iich was here fixed, in order to compre- hend within Lower Canada, all seignorial grants under the French tenure, and that the new townships which were laid out for the loyalists, should be w^itliin Upper Canada, in whicli all lands are granted, in free and comm.on soccage. The length of the lake is about twenty-iive miles, and its greatest width, about fifteen, its borders are Hat : and, in some situations, the land on ei- ther side can scarcely be distinguished by travel- lers passing along its centre. The Indian settlement, called St. Regis, is placed on the south side, at the upper extremity of the lake, in latitude forty-live degrees, in a rich and beautiful country. The boundary line between Canada and the United States, passes through it. A missionary from tlie seminary of Quebec is stationed among the Indians. The first township^ in Upper Canada is called. Lancaster, upon the north shore of Lake Saint- Francis, vv^atered by three small rivers, ext^^d- * A township Is a certain tract of land containing' from 20,000 to 40,000 acres, granted by government to individuals, upon specified conditions. This word is therefore sometimes applied to situ^ tions where settlements have scarcely been commenced. 136 LAKE ST. FRAIvCIS, ing nine miles in front, towards the lake, and twelve miles in depth. The adjoining settle- ment ol Charlottenburg, has, in its front several ijniall islands ; and is watered by two branches of the river aux Iiaisi?is, which winds its course tbiougha considerable part of the township, ini- til it joins the lake. Between the latter settle- ment, and Ccnn^all, a narrow tract intervenes, %\ iiich is the property of the Indians of Saint Re- gis. An island, named Petite Is/e, is situated ©pposile to their village : and another more con«- skierable, named Grande Isle Saint Regis, lies somewhat higher up, and in front of the town- ship oi Cornw. 11. This village or town, as it is teimed, is intended to be a mile square : and the houses already built, extend along the banks of a branch of the Suint Lawrence, which here forms a bay. In this vicinity are several islands besides the two already mentioned. These are denomi- nated Isles aux milles Roches, and des Cheneaiix Ecartees, The township of Kenyon, is in the rear of the former settlement; and Roxburgh, in that of the latter. C in the adjoining township of Osnabruck, the river aux Raisins has its source : and in the vici- nity of this setdement, are the He au Longue Saidt, lies des trots Cheneaiix Ecartees, lies an Diahle^ and lie au Chat The channel of the river becomes in this situa- tion very steep : and the waters, intersected and J.ONGUE SAULT. 137 ©>iitracte(l betweei tae^e isiaads, rush along with prodigious velocity. The bateaux, in ascending, are always conducted by the north shore, and through tiie more shallow parts, that the men may- use their setting poles : and in many places, it becomes necessary to disembark, and drag them by ropes. The noise, the continual motion, and mag* nitude of its contending waves, render the Lon- gue Sati/ty at once an object of terror and delight. These burst upon each other ; and, tossing aloft their broken spray, cover the stream with a while and troubled surface as far as the eye can extend* From a point of land, on the north shore, formed by the sinuosities of the stream, much grandeur is displayed. The bank is here about fifty feet high ; and commands a view of the principal branch of tlie river, for a distance of two or three miles ; in which the effulgence of the impetuous current is beautifully contrasted, with the bordering shades of the woods. Throughout the same dis- tance, much labour and exertion are required in dragging forward the bateaux, after they have pas- sed through a mill-stream on the bank. Tovv ards the south shore, which is separated by island* from the branch now described, the stream m .-, much less broken : and its depth precludes the use of poles. It is through this channel that the bateaux pass, in their return from Kingston. The length of the Longue Sault is estimated ^X M 2 13S LONGVE SAULT. nine miles : and a boat usually descends it, m about twenty minutes, which is at the rate of twenty-seven miles an hour* The south shore is, in general, covered with its native woods : and it is only at considerable dis- tances from each other, that settlements are in- terspersed. Williamsburg on the north shore, is the adjoining township to Osnabruck ; and has before it lie au rapid PLat^ the west end of wdiich is opposite to the next settlement, Matilda. Here are also some smaller islands,^ and a penin- sula, which, when the river is very full, becomes surrounded by water. The village of Johnstown, which is near a mile in length, and designed to extend a mile in breadth, is placed in the township of Edwards- burg. From hence, decked vessels of consider- able burden may be navigated to Kingston ; from thence to Niagara, or to any part of Lake Ontario. The islands opposite to this township are nume- rous ; the principal are Hospital island, and Isle du Forte Levu, where the French formerly had a small garrison, to defend the lower settlements,, from the irruptions of the Iroquois. La GaloU ie is'd part of the great river, in which the current Sows with much rapidity, although the waters are, in very few places, broken. Oswegatchie, formerly a military post belong- ing to the British govern nier.t, was given up to tiiat of the United 5;)tates in 1796, It stands oa THE SAIVT LAWRF.l^CE. 1S5 the south shore, nearly opr) )- te to New Joh is- town. It is now knon^n by the name of Ogdeiis- bur^ ; and is the county ^o\vi\ in which the cir- cuit courts are held. The St, L?^wrence, wliose breadth is here about four miles, receives into its bosom the Black river On the borders of the latter are situated some hou ses, inhabited by about a hundred natives of the Iroquois tribe, who are usually termed Os-veg-atchie Indians, Elizabeth town, a settlement on the north side, which joins the township of Augusta, is well wa- tered by three rivers, the moht considerable of which takes its rise from a little lake ; and is called the Tonianta, the lies du Barril being contiguous to it. On the south-east angle of the township of Yonge, the latter river disembogues itself into the Saint Lawrence. Lansdown, adjoining to the laat settlement, contains many small streams: and the great river, for an extent of several miles^ from near Kingston, as far down as Augusta, is interspersed by a multitude of isles> As it spreads itself to a width, in some places, of ten or twelve miles, this part has acquired the name of the lake of the Thousand Islands \ which may be said to be only a prolongation of Lake Ontario. The river Gamansque, deriving its source from a lake oi" the same name, takes its course through tlie township of Leeds; and possesses, at its mouth, a good hart^our for vessels. Betvvcea the last iicuncd setiicment jind Kingg^ 140 f'Hfi SAINT LAWRENC]?, toii, Pittsburg intervenes. Howe island stretch- es, in a long, and narrow form, near the front of tbf se two tow^nships. From Pointe au Bodet to Kingston, the distance is one hundred and twenty- miles : and in that space are contained abov6 eighty water mills, the most considerable of which are erected upon the river Gananoque. Roads have, some years ago, been opened, and wooden bridges constructed over the intervening creeks and rivers. From Point au Bodet down- wards, a way for travellers on horseback, has been cut through the w oods, which is yet scarce- ly practicable for wheeled carriages. Many parts of this road, as well as of those in the vicinity of Kingston, are at times rendered almost impassa- ble by considerable falls of rain, the altitude of the trees on each side precluding the rays of the sun. After a fall of snow, in winter, travelling by land is rendered much more easy. Settlements have been commenced, in upwards of thirty other townships, situated in the rear of those already mentioned, and on the southward of the Outaounis, or Great River, upon whose margin, many of them terminate. Others are watered by the river Rideau, and by that of Pe- tite Nation, with the lakes and streams of the Ga- nanoque, affordmg a variety of places, convenient for the erection of mills. These rivers abound in carp, sturgeon, and perch. The ponds afford- green, and other turtle^ likewise fish of different THE SAINT LAWTlEirCE. 141 species. The soils in their vicinity produce tim- ber, v/hose quality depends on position and ferti- lity. The dry lands, which are usually the most elevated, afford growth to oak and hickory. The low grounds produce walnut, ash, poplar, cherty, sycamore, beech, maple, elm, and other woods ; and in some places, there are swamps, covered by cedar and cypress trees. The banks of the small rivers and creeks a- boinid in pine timber of an excellent kind ; and present several situations for water-mills, as well as materials for their construction. The sources of the rivers Rideau and Petite Nation, both of which flow^ into the Outaouais, communicate, by short carrying places, with the streams which fall into the Saint Lawrence, and offer to settlers the advantages of an inland navigation* The forks of the Rideau, in whose vicinity are the townships of Oxford, Marlborough, and Gower^ seem calculated to facilitate, at some future pes^ riod, an interior commerce^ 142 KINGSTON, CHAPTER VIL £>escription of Kingston in Upper Canada — Lake On*' tario-'Bay of ^ante—excellence of its soil— Toronto^ or Tork^ the capital — Burlington Bay — River Onon- dago — romantic cascades — Genesee River — Water- fall — Forts and town of Niagara — superior advan- tages enjoyed by settlers on the banks of the Saint Lawrence — rapid increase of population^ and pros- perous state of the province — ^leenstown — the Whirlpool — stupendous majesty of the Falls of Nia- gara — cascades — village of Chippawa, KINGSTON is charmingly situated on the northern coast of the Saint Lawrence, not far from Lake Ontario, in north latitude, forty -four de- grees, eight minutes, and in west longitude from Greenwich, seventy-five degrees, forty-one mi- nutes. This town was begun in the year 1784^ upwards of twenty- one years ago; and has con- tinued, ever since that period, to advance in a progressive state of improvement, to which the judicious choice of situation, and the fertility of the lands in its vicinity, have, doubtless, greatly contributed. Besides several commodious dvvel- lings, constructed of stone of an excellent quality, it contains a barrack for troops, a gaol and court- house, an episcopal church, an hospital, and seve- ral extensive storehouses. At this place the ves- sels belonging to government, used in navigating KINGSTON. 143 [ iiuke Oiitario, are constructed ; and from hence, merchandise and other articles whicn are convey-, cd from the lower province, in bateaux, are em- barked to be transported to Niagara, York, and other settlements bordering on the lake he largest vessels employed in this service, do not exceed tv/o hundred tons burden : but the usual size is from eighty to a hundred tons. At Kings- ton, there are two coves or inlets, where vessels come to anchor, and on vrhich Vv'harfs are con- structed, for loading or discharging their cargoes. That appropriated for the vessels of government, is at some distance from the town ; aiid is formed by a promontory on the east, and a peninsula, call- ed Point Frederick. On this are placed the na- val store, and yard for building these vessels. A master builder, with some artificers, resides upon the spot ; and is kept in constant employ. The house of the deputy commissary, and those of some other persons in the service, stand likewise upon this peninsula. The other cove, much more considerable than the last, is formed betvv'een the town and the point already mentioned Both of these inlets are exposed, when the wind blows with violence ftom the south, or south- ^ est, and drives before it from the lake, a succession of swel- ling billows. The number of vessels here, in the king's ser- vice, is at present not more than three, tv/o of which are appropriated for the militaryy and one I4i 5C1NGS?0>7# for the civil department. Each vessel .carri% from ten to twenty guns. The senior commander is stiled commodore. As all kinds of timber have a tendency to decay, much sooner in fresh than in salt water ; a vessel navigating the lakes will not last above hix } ears, unless she be made to under- go considerable repairs. As those in the employ of government receive no repairs in their hulls, they are generally laid up at the expiration of tfiat period ; and are replaced by other vessels entire- ly IJfW. The rapid advancement of the country in po- pulation and improvements of every description, has proportionally extended the commerce. The number of vessels in the employ of the merchants is considerable. These are usually built about ten miles below Kingston : and the timber used for their construction is red cedar or oak. Grande Isle, now called Wolfe Island, not far from the town, is the largest which occurs be- tween Montreal and Lake Huron. The. timber found here, and on the south shore of the main land, is red oak, butternut, maple, ash, elm, and small pine. Carieton island, of small extent, in- tervenes between the latter and tiie south shore ; and was formerly occupied as a military station. It has on either side a channel of sufficient depth for vessels, and tv. o excellent harbours. It now projjerl} beK^ngs to the Lnited States, as the boundary nuc oi that government passes through i KINGSTON. 145 the centre of Grand Isle. It contained a stone fort, with barracks of the same materials, store- houses, and other structures. One of the smaller islands, opposite to Ki' gs- [ton, abounds with insects called ticks, resembiiag the little animal of the same name, found upon "^attle in Europe, but of a much larger size. In summer, these insects spread themselves over the surface of the ground, over the trees, the herbage, afc the rocks. They climb upon every object in tlmr way : and to man, their effects are highly dis- agreeable, particularly if they gain the head, from •whence they are with difiiculty dislodged. With- out producing any degree of pain, they wdll gra- dually insinuate themselves beneath the skin; and there establish their quarters. To horses or cattle, w hich have been sent to graze on this island, the ticks, from their multitudes, have been fre- quently fatal. The town which we have described, is, by some, called Cataroquoy, the Indian name; and Avas formerly known by that of Frontenac, ironx a count of the same title, who w^as twice Go\ er- nor- general of Canada. The lake was also, for a long time known by the same appellation. A small fort was many years ago established in this situation, with the design of checking the incur- sions of the Iroquois, and of diverting, in favour of the French, the commerce for peltry, which these savages conducted betw.een the more north- N 146 XAKE ONTARrO. €rn and western tubes, and tJie inhabitants oi' New York, who could supply for that purpose various articles scf European manufacture, on terms much more reasonable than the former colo- nists. The fort was originally built of stone, by M. de la Sale, celebrated for his discoveries, but yet more for his misfortunes, who w^as Seigneur of Cataroqur^y, and go\'ernor of the place. This es- tablishment was not of long duration ; and was of little avail tov\ards impeding the ravages of the Iroquois. Lake Ontario is in length, one hundred and .sixty miles, and in circumlerence, about four hun- dred and fifty. Its depth in many places, rem ans lunascertaincd. The centre has been sounded, with a line of three hundred and fifty fathoms, v.ithout finding bottom. The islands vhich it contains are AmJierst island, Basque, Carieion, PetitCataroquoy, Cedar island, IsleCauchois, isle vx\ Cochon, Isle du Chene, Duck islands, Grena- dier Island, Isles au Galloo, isle la Force, Isle au Foret, Gage island, Howe island, Nicholas island, Orphan island. Isle de Quinte, Isle Tonti, Isles aux Tourtes, Wolfe island or Grande isle, and "W apoose island. The iavid on the north-east coast of Lake Ontario, is low, and in some situa- tions marshy. The inlets or little bays, are, hem their position, considerahl} exposed to the swell bf the waters, and the influence of the winds. LAKE ONTARIO. 147 The vicinity of Ki'igston affords valuable quar- ries of durable vvhite stone : and the soil in gene- ral is intermixed with rocks, a circumstance \\ hich, however, is not prejudicial to its produc- tive quality. Er?iest town is opposite to Amherst island ; and is watered by two small rivers. Camden lies on its north side, and Richmond on its w'est. The river Appenee, on which there are excellent mills, runs through the tv»^o last townships. The bay of Quinte is formed by the peninsula of Prince Edward, by another peninsula, coiitain- in|r part of the towmships of Adolphus and Fre- derick and by the contijient on the north, com- prehending the tovv'uships of Mohawks, Thur- lo^v, and Sidney. This bay affords, throughout its windino: extent, a safe and commodious har- bour, sheltered from the storms by which the lake is frequently agitated. The river Moira here emp- ties itself, after having traversed the township of Thurlow The Trent, formerly called the Quinte, the outlet of several small lakes, flows into the head of the bay, at the eastward of the isthmus, or carrying place. Paii: of one of the tribes of Mohawks, or Iroquois, has a settlement in the tovvTiship. This tract is nine miles in front on the bay, and about twelve miles in depth. A chief, named Captain John, is at the head of those natives, who, preferring this situation, separated from the rest of their tribe, whose village is on 148 LAftE ONTARIO. the Grand River, or Ousc, which disemboj2;"iies its waters into the north-east side of Lake Erie. On the south side of the Trent, there arc salt- springs ; waters impregnated with salt have like- wise been found in other situations in this pro- vince : but the salt which has been produced from tliem was found by no means to possess the pro- perties of that procured from the water of the ocean : and a great part of the provisions ^^ hich have been cured with it, and sent in barrels to Que- bec, for the use of the troops, has been found, on inspection, unfit for use. The exuberance of the soil around the Bay of Quinte, amply rewards the toils of the farmer. It is Vv'orked v/ith facility ; and produces many crops, without the application of manure. The usual produce is twenty-five bushels of wheat, for one acre. The timber consists of oak, elm, hick- ory, maple and pines of different species. The bay is narrow throughout its whole extent, which is upwards of fifty miles ; and is navigable for those vessels which are used upon the lake. An apparent tide is frequently observable here, as well as in some parts of the upper lakes, a circum- stance probably occasioned by the impulse of the winds. Great quantities of wild fowl are found in this situation, and excellent fish of different spe- cies. Salmon is caught in the river Trent, but of an inferior quality, on account of its immense distance from the sea. The i^sthmus of the pen- . i LAKE ONTARIO. 149 insula of Prince Edward being extremely narrow, it is intended that a canal shall be cut across it, be- tween the bay already described, and a small and beautiful lake, w^hich communicates with Lake Ontario. The harbour of Newcastle is formed by the township of Cramahe, and Presque Isle. Be- tween the tow^nship of Sidney, and the latter, that of Murray intervenes. Those of Haldiaiand, Hamilton and Hope, are beautified and fertilized by a variety of little streams, upon some of which, mills are erected. Clarke, Darlington, Whitby, and Pickering, follow in succession, m proceed- ing to the westward ; at the latter, there is a pro- ductive salmon and sturgeon fishery, in a river called Duffin's Creek, which is usually open, and large enough for the reception of boats, at most seasons of the year. The township of Scarbo- rough presents banks of much greater elevation towards the lake, than any part of the northern coast of that vast collection of waters. All the townships already noticed, are copiously watered by rivulets, at whose mouths there are ponds, and low lands, capable of being drained, and con- verted into meadows. In the rear of the town- ship of Murray, is that of Seymour : and Crama^ he, Haidimand, and Hamilton, have contiguous to them on the northward, the townships of Percy Alnwick, and Dives. Behiiid Scarborough, iherc is a German settlement upon the river New. n:2 1^0 YORK. which, flowing througii Pickering, disembogues itself into tlie lake. York, or Toronto, the seat of government in Upper Canada, is placed in 43° and 35 minutes of north latitude, near the bottom of a harbour of the same name. A long and narrow peninsula, distinguished by the appellation of Gibraltar Pointy forms, and embraces this harbour, securing it from the storms of the lake, and rendering it the safest of any, around the coasts of that sea of fresh whalers. Stores and block-houses are constructed near the extremity of this point. A spot called the garrison, stands on a bank of the main land, opposite to the point ; and consists only of a wood- en block- house, and some small cottages of the same materials, little superior to temporary huts. The house in which the Lieutenant-governor re- sides, is likewise formed of wood, in the figure of a half square, of one story in height, with galleries in the centre. It is sufficiently commodious for the present state of the province ; and is erected upon a bank of the lake, near the mouth of To- ronto bay. The town, according to the plan, is projected to extend to a mile and a half in length, from the bottom of the harbour, along its banks. Many houses are already completed, some of which display a considerable degree of taste* The advancement of this place to its present conuition, has been effected v/ithin the lapse of six or seven years, and persons wlio have formerly travelled in VORK. 151 this part of the country, are impressed with sen- timents of wonder, on beholding a town which may be termed handsome, reared us if by enchant- ment, in the midst of a wilderness. Two build- ings of brick, at the eastern extremity of the town, which were designed as wings to a centre, are occupied as chambers for the upper and lower house of assembly The scene from this part of the basin, is agreeable and diversified ; a block- house, situated upon a wooded bank, forms the nearest object. Part of the town, points of land clothed with spreading oak-trees, gradually re- ceding from the eye, one behind another, until terminated by the buildings of the garrison and the spot on which the governor's residence is placed, compose the objects on the right. The left side of the view comprehends the long penin- sula which incloses this sheet of water, beautiful on account of its placidity, and rotundity of form. The distant lake, which appears bounded only by the sky, terminates the whole. A rivulet, called the Don, runs in the vicinity of the town : and there are likewise other springs by which this settlement is watered. Yonge- street, or the military way leading to Lake Sim- coe, and from thence to Gloucester-bay on Lake Huron, commences in the rear of the towHo This communication, which, in time, wull be pro- ductive of great utility to the commerce of the country, is opened as far as Luke Simcoe ; and 152 YORK. as it is considerably shorter than the circuitous route, by the straits of Niagara, Lake Erie, and Detroit, must become the gieat channel of inter ^ course from this part of the province, to the north- west country Lots of two hundred acres are laid out on each side of Yonge-street, every lot hav- ing the width of four hundred yards on the street. Gwiilimbury, a settlement in the interior part of the couiitry, is thirty-two miles to the northward of York ; and communicates with Like Simcoe, through Holland river, which runs nito Cook's bay on that lake. Somewhat to the westward, there are plains thinly planted with oak-trees, where the Indians cultivate corn. As the lake o- pens on the eye of the traveller, some small islands disclose themselves; of wh;ch Darling's, in the eastern part, is the most considerable. To the westward, there is a large, deep bay, called Kcm- ptnfelt's, from whose upper extremity is a short Ccirrying-place to the river Nottuasague, which discharges itself into Iroquois bay, on Lake Hu- ron. Francis island is placed on the north end of the former lake : and a safe anchorage for vessels is presented between it and the shore. The shortest road to Lake Huron, is across a sm.ill neck of land, which separates Lake Simcoe horn a smaller lake The Matchedash river, which has its source in the former, affords a more circui- tous p is^^asj-e to the northward and westward ; and is, in every part, navigable ibr boats ol any YORK. 153 size, excepting at the rapids, which present situa- tions for mills. The soil, on either side of this river, is of an inferior quality. It discharges it- self into a bay of the same name, to the eastward, which receives also, North and South rivers; and forms a junction with a yet larger basin, al- ready noticed, called Gloucester, or Sturgeon bay, in the mouth of which lies Prince William Hen- ry's island, open, to Lake Huron, On a penin- sula in this basin, ruins of a French settlement are yet extant. The harbour of Penetangusltene, is formed between two promontories, around which there is soil well suited for cultivation. This harbour possesses sufficient depth of water, and the anchorage for vessels, is safe. The township of Markham, in the rear of York and Scarborough, is settled by Germans. To the westward of the garrison of York, are the remains of an old French fort, called Toron- to ; adjoining to this situation there is a deep bay, receiving into it the river Humber, between which, and the head of Lake Ontario, the Tobyco, the Credit and two other rivers, with a number of smaller streams, join that im^mense body of waters. These abound in fish, particularly in salmon, for which the Credit is celebrated. A house of entertainment for passengers, is establish- ed on the banks of this river. The tract of territory between the Tobyco. and the head of the lake, is frequented only by er- 1>54 LAKE ONTARIO. ratio tribes of Missasagues, which descend from the northward. Burlington bay is iornitd by a point of land extending from south to north, leaving only a small outlet, which connects it with the lake. Over this a wooden bridge is con- structed : ai.d at the south end of the beach, an Inn. called the King's-head, is kept for the ac- ccn nicdition ol travellers. The bay now mentioned, presents a combina- tion of objects, as beautiful and romantic in their kiiicT as aij)- which the interior of America can boast, A bold, rocky, and picturesque promon- tory, separates it from a marshy lake, called Coot's P.radise, which abounds in game, and pours thi- ther tiiC tribute of its waters. Bet^^•een Burling- ton bay and Nia:::-ara, a multitude of small rivers join the lake, the most distniguished of which, are those called the Twelve and the Twenty. These rivers, previous to their departure from their cliannels, spread themselves behind elevated beaches vvhich impede their courses ; and find- ing only a small opening through which to flow, become dammed up, and form spacious basins -within. Their banks are elevated, but not rug- ged; and are generally covered with pine-trees of a large growth. The tract bordering on this part of the lake, is denominated the county of Lin- coln ; and contains twenty townships v/hich are well settled, and rapidly increasing in population. Tiie traveller, by entering Lake Ontario on the JLAIvE ONTARIO. 155 cast, meets with Grenadier Island, at the distance ol eighteen miks from Kingston, and near the southern coast ; which is properly speaking, the right bank of the Saint Lawrence, in its course towards the ocean. This island 13 Vi league in length from east to west ; and is about sixty yards from the shore. In pursuing this route, the first river which presents itself, fiows into the lake from a north-east direction, in ascending whose course about two leagues and a half, a waterfall of twenty-five feet in height becomes disclosed to the view. A swamp is found near its summit. The depth of water in the river, is from three to one fathom. The banks are rocky : but the soil above them, erives sufficient indicatioris of fertilit}'. The entrance of the river is six acres wide, contracting by degrees to one acre, and be- coming yet more narrow at the fall. Somevv hat to the westward, the largest of the Isles au Gal- loo is situated, which, with a peninsula on the main coast, forms a harbour for vessels, having a depth of from live, to seven fathoms of water, and a good bot;.om for anchorage. Proceeding a- roanci the coast to a bay running east-north-eaitt, we sounded from the north point to a small isiaiid; and found its breadth three acres, having from five iu ten fathoms of water, with a muddy bot- tom. Large vessels Rught anchor near the shore oncaher side : but riii- on the south is moj se- cure, on account oi a peniiisula which precludes 156 LAKE ONTARIO. the effects of storm; weather. Two miles and an halfirom hence, another ba} occurs, in a:3cerid- ing which there is a river with islands of rock at its entrance, whose rapidity increases in p^*opor- tion to the distance iioni its mouth ; and renders it necessary to have recourse to setting poles, to push the canoe up the stream. For fifteen acres j up its course the water is three fathoms deep, but '; decreases to four feet in the rapid parts. The i rocks on each side, are at least forty feet in alti- \ tude. On the south shore the land rises yet more I considerably, and gives growth to forests of fine oak timber. Villiers bay is about two miks wide at its entrance ; and contains from six to seven fathoms of water, with a clayey bottom. Not far from hence there is yet another bay, | whose position is towards the south, being half a mile in breadth, with five fathoms in depth of v/ater. The land here assumes a bolder aspect, rising for near a mile of extent, into cliffs of up- wards of eighty feet high, and afterv.ards gradu- i ally declining. The soil on their summits is ier- tile, producing woods of a hard nature. The name of the last mentioned bay, is Hungry bay, or .; JSaife de la Famine ; so called by M. de la Barre, I Governor-general of Canada, who, in 1684, on an expedition against the Iroquois, lost, in this situ- ation, a great part of his army, which perished from hunger and sickness. A considerable stream called Black river, pours itself into this LAKE ©NTARI#, 157 featy, and about two leagues lurther to the south- ward, another branch of the same river joins its waters with the lake. The channel between the first, or most easterly isle of Galloo, and the south shore, being large, w^ith from eight to ten fathoms of water, vessels may with safety be steered through it. To the ^vestward of this there are two other isles of the same name ; and betv/ een these, tw^o smaller isles, w^ith a good cliannel interven- ing. Several rivulets occur, in coasting between the western promontory of Hungry bay, and the river Onondago, which is placed near thirty miles from thence, and falls into the lake La latitude for. ty-three degrees and twenty minutes. The chan- nel at the entrance is twelve feet in depth, and twenty-four within. It is the discharge of seve- ral small rivers and lakes, ot which the most con- siderable is that of Oneida. On ascending the river, whose channel is bounded by banks of great elevation, a waterfall, eighty feet high, and half a mile in breadth, presents itself to the view. At the distance of two acres above, there is a second (all, which, although not more than twent\ -five feet high, is beautifully romantic. The brilliuncy of tlie foaming w^aters, which throw themselves with the most rapid motion over die perpenilicu- lar rocks, produces an eiFect magnificent and charming, and sheds a gleam of delight over the mind of the wearied traveller. Amid the variety Iff sensations, which scenes like this contribute to O 158 XAKE ONTARIO. excite, is that of. surprise, that a fluid body should for ages have continued to move with such a velo- city, without a failure of the sources from whence it is supplied. " Rusticus expectat dum defluit amnis : ast ilia " Volvitur ; et volvetur in omne voiubiiis aevum." The timber in this viciiiity consists principally of white and red oak, and chesnut. I'he soil above is level, and of a fertile nature. Fort Obwego is erected on a lofty bank, on the eastern side of this river : and is upwards of forty-five miles from Kingston. The old fort, of which no vestige re- mains, was built in 1722, by a gentleman named Burnet, son of the celebrated bishop, who obtain- ed, for this purpose, permission of the Iroquois in whose territory it was situated It formed a key to Hudson's river, on the north ; and pro- tected, against the French, the trade with the In- dians who inhabited the borders of the lake. The b«r between the spot \vhere this defence stood, and the new fort, is eighty feet in width, i.nd twelve feet in depth. The fort was delivered over to the American government in 1794. It wa^ taken by the French in 1756, when a great purt of the garrison was massacred by the savages. Beyond the fort, for about a mile, the depth of w^ater is from four to five fathoms, augmenting further up to nine fathoms. Pursuing our voyage, we arrived at a large bay v/ith a beauiilui entrance from the lake ; and as- LAKE ONTARIO. 159 cended In quest of a river, but found only swampy grounds. This bay is two miles deep, having four and a half feet of water on the bar at the en- trance, and from three to four fathoms, with a muddy bottom within. The points facing the lake are steep, and of considerable altitude, com- posed of strata of stone and earth The depth about half a mile from the shore is eight fathoms^ with a sandy bottom. The bay of Goyogouin lies about sixteen miles to the westward of Onondago ; and exhibits an aspect of fertility. It is five miles in extent, and tvvo miles and a half in width, within the points of entrance. Near the west point, there are tv»elve and thirteen feet water on the bar : but the centre has no more than seven and a half feet. A penin- sula well wooded, elevated, and in the form of a crescent, advances into the bay : and on entering it on the left, there is a small island. No river was found in this situation. Irondiquet bay is four miles to the eastward of the Genesee river. The depth at the distance of three miles from the coast is eighteen fathoms. Tiie entrance of the bay is flat, Tvith four feet of water on its bar. The eastern side has many branches ; and terminates in swamps. The ri- ver, at the southern extremity, discharges itself with a very gentle ciu'rent. The Genesee or Casconchiagon, by some per- sons called the New River, is narrow ; and con^ 160 LAKE ONTARIO. tains net much water at its nnouth on Lake On- tario. It however enlarges itself above ; and forms a basin of sulncient depth to float vessels of two hundred tons. On ascending its course about two leagues, a fall of sixty feet in altitude, and occupying the whole breadth of the river, ob# trades itself en the view, and commands the ad- miration of the traveller. It pours, with plaintive sound, over a rock almost perpendicular ; and, broken amid the variety of its movements, pro- duces a curtain of resplendent whiteness. On pursuing the channel still higher up. many rapids gnd cascades present themselves throughout the numerous sinuosities of its course. From the source of this river, which runs upw^ards of three hundred miles, the Ohio is distant only thirty miles. The timber produced in the vicinity of the mouth of the Genesee, consists chiefly of white and red oak and chesnut. The soil above the fall is rather flat, and is of a fertile nature. At Point e mix Tourtes there are two large swamps, into each of which two small rivers flow, A stream of the same name as the point is forty feet wide at its entrance : and the land around it is swampy. The river aiix Bceiif^ has an entrance of forty feet wide, with three feet of water^ on a rocky and gravelly bottom. The bed, for four miles up its course, is three fathoms in depth ; but diminishes by degrees uritil cascades are met with. It flows in a serpentine course from the NIAGARA. 161 south- west. The banks produce red pine, fit for the masts of small vessels : and there are white oak-trees near its embouchure. Johnson's creek is about three miles from the last river : and its banks are well clothed with ash, aspin, and cher- ry-trees. The entrance of mix Ecliises is broad and shal- low, the depth being sufficient to admit bateaux only. T'he scenery here exhibited is agreeable* The land assuming a gentle slope, and being of great fertility, produces large oak timber without any underwood. On exploring about two miles, we found cascades, the first of which forms three branches, resembling sluices of considerable height. At the bar there were no more than two feet of water : and at half a mile from the coast^ the soundings were three fathoms. The old lort of Niagara, which was erected by the French in 1751, is placed in forty- three de grees and fifteen minutes of rorth latitude, onaii angle which is formed by the east side of iIiC Saint Lawrence and the vast diffusion of its waters into the lake. It is erected in the country of the Iro- quois ; and was for a series of years considered as the key to those inland seas of fresh water, w hich occupy so vast a portion of this part of North A- merica. The ramparts of the fort ai'e composed of earth and pickets ; and contain within them a lofty stone building, which is occupied for barracks and for store-rooms. The x\mencans are in pos 2 162 NIAGARA. session of it, but seem to take no measures either for its repair or enlargement. As the waters of the lake make progressive encroachments on the sandy bank v^ hose summit it occupies, the foun- dations of the brj)dings will, in a short time, be undc rmined. This fort was taken from the French in • 759 by Sir William Johnson. On the western bank, about a mile higher up the river, the British fort is situated on ground several feet more elevated than the last. It is like- wise constructed of earth and cedar pickets : and the buildings contained in it are executed with much neatness, taste, and accommodation. On the border of the river, and beneath the fort, there sre several buildings consisting of store-houses and barracks, one of which is called Navy Hall ; and is contiguous to a wharf, where vessels load and unload. A swamp in the vicinity becomes at particular seasons, from *^- ...^ ouiiieiimes to ^ _ ..X tiie garrison. A plain, w hose extent in every direction is near a mile, intervenes between the town of Niagara and Fort George, the name of the fortress already described. The houses are in general composed of wood, and have a neat and clean appearance. Their present num- ber may amount to near two hundred- The streets are spacious, and 1 id out at right angles to each other, so that the town, when completed, will be KIACARA. 165 healthful and airy. On Iviissisa^siie Point, which is on the west side of the mouth of the river, a light-house^ for the guidance of vessels which na- vigate the lake, has lately been erected. Near this point, white fish and black bass are caught in greajt abundance. In proceeding from the town of Niagara to the southward, along the banks of the great river, ma- ny attractions combine to present pleasure and amusement to the mind of an observant traveller. The soil, the variety of situations, and the improve- ments of that part of the country, seem to surpass every impression which information alone might produce in its favour. The population is already considerable, and is rapidly augmenting. Fami- lies from the United States are daily coming into the province, bringing with them their stock and utensils of husbandry, in order to establish them^ selves on new lands, invited by the exuberance of the soil, the mildness of the government, and an almost total exemption from taxes. These peo- ple either purchase lands from the British subjects, to whom they have been granted, or take them upon lease, paying the rent by a certain portion of the produce. Many farmers from the neighbouring states, who are wealthy, procure grants of their own, and taking the oaths of supremacy and allegiance, be- come subjects of the crown of Great Britain. Men born and educated in the northern states 164 niacJara. of America, are of the greatest utility in tlie settle^ ment of a new country ; as tliey arc endowed with a spirit for adventure, activit}% industr}^, and per- severance, rarely to be equalled. Nor are they deficient in the po^er of inventive faculty, particu- larly when applied to mechanical objects. In tra- velhng, the wagon is by many made to serve the end, not only of a house during the journey, but likev\ise of a vessel, to cross the rivers which are not fordable. The scams of tlie body are secured against the admission of water : and, when applied to this latter purpose, the wheels are taken off, it is conducted by rowing to the opposite shore : and the horses and cattle are made to follow it by swimming. The settlers who bring into the pro- vince the laK est property in money and stock, ge- nerally come from the back parts of V irginia, and even from the Carolinas. In the use of the axe the Americans display un= common dexterity ; and hew down the largest trees ot the forests with admirable address and ex- pedition. Retaining no attachment for any par- ticular situation, an American farmer, who is not of the first class, will sell his lands, after having cleared and brought them to a state of cultivation, il he can procure for them a reasonable profit for his toils. He then decamps ; launches into the woods in quest of a new possession ; and erects another habitation. The inimeiise tracts of woods, filled with oak NIAGARA. 165 tiiniber, which every where present themselves, are certain indications of the fertility of the soiL The common produce of the fields is, in general, from thirty to forty for one in wheat or any other grain. And portions of land which have, for up- wards of sixteen successive years, yielded their harvest without the aid of manure, still continue, with forty to one, to reward the industry of the husbandman. The winters in this part of the country are in- eonsiderable, either for duration or severity, the snow seldom remaining on the ground for a longer period than five or six weeks. About the year 1800, before the means of trans- port to the lower province became facilitated and improved, the inhabitants were at a loss to dis- pose of the produce of their farms. Since that period many thousand barrels of flour, quantities of salted beef and pork, butter and cheese, pot-ash, and numbers of live cattle, have annually been conveyed to Lower Canada, through the rapids and cascades of die Saint Lawrence, upon rafts of tim- ber, containing from five hundred to eight hun- dred barrels each, and upon scows, a superior species of raft constructed of plank, without re. ceiving from the waters any material injury. The conducting of that mode of transport, although at first difficult and unvv^ieldy, has now become more familiar : and immense quantities of produce con- tinue to flow every year into the lower provmce* l66 JJIAGARA. There are attached to settlements on the hoi ders of the Saint Lawrence, advantages of trans- port superior to those of any inland country in America. The soil is unquestionably of the first quality , and is sufficiently varied by swells and ridges, to take off that sameness of effect which would result from a dead level country Winter wheat is produced with the greatest certainty. The grain is heavier and more plump than any" that is raised in the territories of the United States, igxcept such as border upon this im.mense river* Grass is very natural to this country : and cattle fatten in summer upon the wild growth. Hemp and flax are produced in great perfection. The timber consists of oak, pine in all its varieties, sugar and curled maple, beech, bass wood, hicko- ry, black and white ash, sassafras, black and white birch, elm, walnut-tree, butternut-tree, cherry- tree, and a variety of other woods. The winter season is employed by the farmer in making staves for casks, squaring timber, or preparing plank and boards, ail of which may be disposed of to advantage at Montreal. In the spring the timber is formed into rafts, which are loaded with produce, and conducted down the river with great certainty, at any period during the summer season, without the inconvenience of waiting for a freshet, or an increase of the waters by rains, which can have but small influence on so vast a body* This circumstance alcne adds a :wiAeAttA. 167 value to the establishments on its borders ; for on all other rivers, except those of the first magni- tude, those who mean to conduct rafts down their stream are compelled to be ready at the moment of a swell of the waters; and if they be so unfor- tunate as not to be prepared, an opportunity of carrying to market the productions of their farms becomes lost to them for the whole year. It like-r wise not unfrequently happens with many rivers, that the spring freshets are not sufficiently hi^^h to render it safe to venture down them. The f .r- mer on the Saint Lawrence is assured he can send a barrel of flour for four shillings, and a barrel of potash for eight shillings, to the ship which comes from Europe. In many branches of husbandry the settlers of this country seem to display a superior degree of skill : and fields of corn are here to be seen, as hixuriant and fine as in any part of the universe. The mode of commencing a settlement is by cutting dow^n the smaller wood, and some of the large trees ; collecting them into heaps ; and burn- ing them. Some of the remaining trees are gird- led, by cutting a groove all around through the bark, to impede the sap from mounting : and thus deprived of nourishment, the branches cease to grow, and the leaves decay and fall to the ground. A iter passing a harrow over the soil, in oixler to turn it up, the grain is sown : the harrow is agvin Used ; and thus left without any further trouble^ 16^ NIAGARA. the newly-cleared ground yields a copious in- crease. A stranger is here struck with sentiments of re- gret on viewing the numbers of fine oak-trees which are daily consumed by fire, in preparing • the lands for cultivation. The houses, with few exceptions, are here con- structed of wood, but with a degree of neatness and taste, for which we in vain might look among^ the more ancient settlements of the lower pro- vince. The improvements of every description, in which for a few years past the province has beeii^ rapidly advancing, have in some situations, alrea- dy divested it of the appearance of a new- settled colony, and made it assume the garb of wealth, and of long-established cultiu'e. The roads in the settled parts of the country are, in the summer season, remarkably fine : and two stage co-^.ches run daily between Niagara and Chippavva, or Fort Welland, a distance of eighteen miles. The scenery from Niagara to Queenstown is highly pleasing, the road leading along the sum- mit of the banks of one of the most magnificent rivers in the universe. And on ascending the mountain, which is rather a sudden elevation from one immense plain to another, where the river be- comes lost to the view, the traveller proceeds through a forest of oak trees, until he becomes ;surprised and his attention is arrested by the falls qUEENSTOWN. 169 presented to the eye through openhigs now cut in the woods, on the steep banks by which they are confined. Queenstow^n is a neat and flourishing place, distinguished by the beauty and grandeur of its situation. Here all the merchandise and stores for the upper part of the province are landed from the vessels in which they have been conveyed from. Kingston, and transported in w^agons to Chippa- wa, a distance often miles ; the falls, and the rapid and broken course of the river, rendering the na- vigation impracticable for that space. Between Niagara and Queenstown the river affords, in eve- ry part, a noble harbour for vessels ; the water be- ing deep, the stream not too pow^erful, the anchor- age good, and the banks on either side of consi- derable altitude. The mountain already noticed is formed by the land assuming a sudden acclivity of upwards of three hundred feet from one horizontal plain to auo her ; and extends from east to west for a con- sider ble way, the river holding its course throup h its :entre, and cutting it asunder. The perpen- dicuiar banks on either side are near four hundred feet in height, from the level of the water below to tiieir su;>Lmit. Their strata are similar, not on- ly in altitudes but in substance. A litde way be- low the bank on which the town is placed, there is a spot rising about t^venty feet from the side of the river, upon whose surface a quantity of stones P 170 'vlHE WHIRLPOOL is placed, which appear to have been deposited there for a series of years, and v/hich have been evidently formed in currents of water. Since the settlement of the country, the river has not been perceived to rise to that height. These circumstances seem to afford probable ground for conjecture, that the stream which now flows through the deep chasm of the mountain, did at some former period, throw itself from near the summit ; and, after sweeping away the rocks and soil, form its present profound and rugged channel, extending upwards of nine miles from die precipice, v.hence the wide and stupendous flood continues novv to fail. In tracing the course of the river higher up from Queenstown, many singular and romantic scenes are exhibited. The whirlpool, v/hich is about four miles from that place, is a basin formed by the current in the midst of lofty precipices clothed V, ith woods. Previous to its entering this bay, the stream drives with awful roar, its broken interrupted v/aters over a sudden slope upv/ards of fifty feet in height ; and thus proceeds foaming past the bed it afterwards takes, which being a- round the angle of a precipitous promontory, its weight and velocity oblige it to pass on, and to iiiake the circuit of the basin before it can flow through that channel. It has apparently made an effort to break through the bank to the westward, but the rock was probably too solid. The strata PALLS OF K I AGAR A. i/I to the norlhward were found more penetrable, and through these it has forced a passage. A tide ris- ing to the height of two and an half feet, and again falling every minute, is observable all around the basin. This phenomenon may be produced by the impulse communicated to it from the torrent, which causes it alternatelv to swell, and to recoil irom the beach. This gulph usually contains a quantity of float- ing timber, v/hich continues to rc'.'ohe in the ed- dv about once in half an hour; and will some- times remain in this state for months, until it be drawn off by the current. At one particular part, all floating substances are made to rise on one end, after which they are swallowed down by the vor* tex, and for a time disappear. The falls of Niagara surpass in sublimity every description which the povvers of language can af- ford of that celebrated scene, the most W'onderful and avrfal which the habitable ^^orld presents. Nor can any drawing convey nn adequate idea of the magnitude and deptii of t lie precipitating waters. By the interposition of two islaiids, the river is; separated into three falls, that of the Great Horse- shoe on the west or British side, so denominated from its form, and those of Fort Slausser and Montmorenci, on the eastern or American side. The larger island is about four hundred yards in width, and the small ishmd about ten yards. The tiiree falls, w ith the islands, describe a crescent % i72 FALLS OF NIAGARA'. and the river beneath becomes considerably contracted. The breadth of the whole, at the pitch of the waters, including the curvatures which the violence of the current has produced m the Horse-shoe, and in the American falls, may be estimated at a mile and a quarter : and the al- titude of the Table Rock, from whence the pre- cipitation commences, is one hundred and fifty feet. Along the boundaries of the river, and behind ihe falls, the elevated and rocky banks are every where excavated by sulphureous springs ; the vi- triolic acid uniting with the limestone rock, and forming plaster of Paris; ivlncli is here and there scattered amid the masses of stone which com- pose the beach beneath. These excavations extend in many places to a distance of fifty feet underneath the summit of the bank. Casting the eye from, the Table Rock into the basin beneath, the effect is awfully grand, magniii- cent and sublime. No object intervening between the spectator and that profound abyss, he appears suspended in the atmosphere. ^ The lofty banks and immense woods which environ this stupendous scene; the irresistioie force, the rapidity of motion displayed by the roll- ing clouds of foam; the uncommon brillicsncy * A part of this description was published in 1801 .n the Sun^ and afterwwds copied fvoxfi tljat paper into the Moniteur at Paris.^ PALIS OP NIAGARA. 17S and variety of colours and of shades ; the ceaseless intumescence, and swift agitation of the dashing waves below ; the solemn and tremendous noise, with the volumes of vapour darting upwards into the air, which the simultaneous report and smoke of a thousand cannon could scarcely equal ; irre- sistibly tend to impress the imagination with such a train of sublime sensations, as few other combi* nations of natural objects are capable of produc- ing, and vvhich terror lest the treacherous rock crumble beneath the feet by no means contributes to diminish. The height of the descent of the rapids above the great fall is fifty-seven feet eleven inches. The distance of the commencement of the rapids above the pitch, measured by the side of the island is one hundred and forty-eight feet : and the total altitude from the bottom of the falls to the top of the rapids, is tW'O hundred and seven feet. The projection of the extreme part of the Tabic Rock is fifty feet four inches. The large island extends up the river about three quarters of a miie : and the rapids between that and the western banks are nmch diversified. In one situation near the island, there is a fall of about sixteen feet in height, the vapour from which is distinctly visible. Several small islands are formed towards the west side of the river. From a settlement called Birch's Mills, on level ground below the bank, the rapids are displayed p 2 174 FALLS Of NIAGARA. £o gvQcXt advantage. They dash from one rocky declivity to another, and hasten with foaming fu- ry to the precipice. The bank along whose sum- mit the carriage-road extends, affords many rich, ahhough partial views of the falls and rapids. They are from hence partly excluded from the eye by trees of different kinds, such as the oak, the ash, the beech, fir, sassafras, cedar, walnut, and tulip-trees. About t\vo miles further down the side of the river, at a situation called Bender's, an extensive and general prospect of the falls, ^vith the rapids and islands, is at once developed to the eye of the spectator. On descending the bank, which in several places is precipitous and difficult, and on emerging from the woods at its base, a wonderful display of grand and stupendous objects is at once expanded to the view. From amid immense frag- ments of rock, and lacerated trees which have de- scended in the current of the waters, the eye i& directed upwards toward the falls, that of Fort Siausser being on the left, and the Great Horse- shoe fall immediately in front. On the right is a lofty bank, profusely covered with diversity of foliage ; beyond which the naked, excavated rock discloses itself As the river here contracts to the bre.idth of about half a mile, the fall on the Ame- rican side becomes nearest t© the eye : and its wa- ters tumble over a rock which appears to be per- pendicular ^^ aud nearly in a straight line across to FAILS OF NIAGARA. 175 the island, the curvatures being, from the point now described, not perceptible. The rock is, however, excavated ; and at the pitch has been worn from continual abrasion by the fall, into a serrated shape, whence the masses of foam pour down in ridges which retain their figure from the summit to the bottom. Numbers of stones which have been torn away from the precipice, are ac- cumulated throughout the whole extent below ; and receive the weighty and eifulgent clouds of broken waters, which again dash from thence in- to the basin. The Horse- shoe fall is distinguished not only by its vastness, but by the variety of its colours. The waters at the edge of the Table Rock are of a brownish cast ; further on of a brilliant white ; and in the centre, where the fluid body is greatest, a transparent green appears. Around the pro- jection, which is in the form of a horse-shoe, the water is of a snowy whiteness. A cloud of thick vapour constantly arises from the centre ; part of which becomes dissolved in the higher regions of the atmosphere ; and a part spreads itself in dews over the neighbouring fields. This cloud of va- pour has frequently, in clear weather, been ob- served from Lake Ontario, at the distance of ninety miles from the falls. The bed of the river is so deep, that it under- goes not such a degree of agitation as the recep- tion of those bodies of water perpetually pouring 176 FALLS OF NIAGARA. down into it might be supposed to prodiice. Ex^ cept at the places immediately underneath each of the falls, there are no broken billows. The stream is comparatively tranquil ; but the v. ater continues, for a long way down its course, to re- volve in numerous whirlpools. Its colour is a deep blue. Quantities of foam float upon the sur- face ; and almost cover a large bay formed be- tween projecting points, containing several insu- lated rocks. Proceeding along the beach to the basis of the Table Rock, the distance is about two miles : and the way thither is over masses of stone which have been torn from the bank above, and over trees which have been carried down the falls, and have been deposited in the spring by bodies of ice, in situations above twenty feet in height from the level of the river. The projection of the Table Rock, it has been remarked, is fifty feet : and between it and the falls a lofty and irregular arch is formed, which extends under the pitch, almost without interrup- tion, to the island. I'o enter this cavern, bounded by the w^aters and rock, and to turn the view to- wards the falls, the noise, the motion, and the vast impulse and weight exhibited, seem to cause every thing around them to tremble ; and at once occupy and astonish Vat mind. Sudden and fre- quent squalls, accompanied by torrents of rain, i^sue from this gloomy cavern. The air drawn FALLS OF NIAGARA. 17T down by the waters is in part reverberated by the rock, and thus discharges itself. At this situation is illustrated the effect of an immense mass of waters, thrown from a prodigi- ous height, after being forcibly propelled. The projectile, counteracted by the gravitative power, obliges the falhng body to describe at first an eU lipse, and then to assume the perpendicular direc- tion in which it is received into the basin. The salient groups in which, with gradations almost regular, the tumbling waters are precipi- tated, excite the av/e and admiration of the spec- tator. The eye follows with delight the masses ot" lustrous foam, varied by prismatic hues, and forming a wide and resplendent curtain. About half a mile from hence, in descending the course of the river, and behind some trees which grow upon the lower bank, is placed the Indian ladder, composed of a tall cedar tree, whose boughs have been lopped off to within three incho cs of the trunk, and whose upper end is attached by a cord of bark to the root of a living tree. The lower end is planted amid stones. It is upwards of forty feet in length ; and trembles and bends under the weight ot a person upon it. As this is the nearest way to the river-side, many people descend by die ladder, led either by curiositv or for the purpose ol spearing fij:- v/h:ch ii. the summer are found in great abundance m this vi- cuiity. Ii6 TAILS Ot^ l^riAGAilA. The spear in use is a fork with two or three prongs, with moving barbs, and fixed to a long handle. The fisherman takes possession of a prominent rock, from whence he watches for his prey : and when it approaches within his reacli, he pierces it with his instrument, with an almost inevitable certainty. The village of Chippav/a^ or Fort Welland, is situated on each side of a river of the same name, which here joins the Saint Lawrence. A wood- en bridge is thrown across this stream, over which is the road leading to Fort Erie. The former fort consists only of a large block-house near the bridge, on tlie northern bank, surround- ed by lofty pickets. It is usually the station of a 3ubaltem officer and twenty five rnen, who are principally engaged in conducting to Fort Eric the transport of stores for the service of the troops in tiie upper part of the province, and for the en- gineer and Indian departments. After being conveyed by land from Queenstown, the provi sions and other articles arc liere embarked in ba- teaux. There are in the vnlage some mercantile store- hoUvSes, and two or three taverns. The waters of the Chippawa are always of a deep brown colour ; and are very un^vholesome if used for culinary purposes. They enter the Saint Lav/rence about two miles above the falls : aaid although they are frequently broken, and rush into many rapids w i'ALLS OF NIAGARA. 179^ their course thither, they seem ol^stinateiy to re- sist being mixed with the purer waters of that flood ; and retain their colour in passing over the precipice. The foam produced in their precipi- tation is of a brownish hue ; and forms the cd^e of the sheet which tumbles over the Table Rock. Their weight, and the depth of the descent, min- gle them effectually with the waters in the basin beneath. The colour of the Chippavv'a is derived from that river passing over a level country, in many places swampy, and from quantities of de- cayed trees vvhich 'tinge it with their bark. It is also impregnated with bituminous matter, which prevents it, until it has suffered the most violent agitation and separation of particles, from incori porating v/ith the more transparent and uncorrupt- ed stream of the Saint Lawrence. Opposite to the village of Chippa"^\'a the cur- rent becomes so powerful, that no boat can be ventured into it, without imminent danger of be- ing sv/ept away, and lost in the rapids. Between the village and the falls there are three mills ; the lower for the manufacture of flour ; the two upper mills which are near to each other, and adjoining to the road, are for the purposes of sawing timr ber into boards, and for manufacturing iron. The latter scheme has hitherto failed of success. The logs for the saw- mill are conveyed down the cur- rent to this situation in a very singular manner. They are cut upon the borders of the Chippawa, 180 FALI3 OF NIAGARA. and floated down to its m(3iith, where a reservoir j formed by a chain of hog-pens, is made to con- tain them. In proceeding downwards, in order to avoid being drawn into the vast vortex of the falls, small poles have been fixed together, from the reservoir to the mill floating at the distance of eighteen or twenty feet from the shore. They are retamed in their places by poles projecting from the land : and thus the chain of poles, rising and falling W'ith the waters, and always floating on the surface, forms a species of canal, into which the logs arc separately launched, and in this manner carried from the reservoir to the mill, a distance of more than a mile. In the vicinity of this mill there is a spring of water, whose vapour is highly inflammable, and is emitted for a time with a considerable degree of force. If collected within a narrow compass, it is capable of supporting combustion for near twenty minutes, and of communicating to v\ater placed over it^ in a small, eonfined vessel, the de- gree of boiling temperature. FALLS OF KIA6A11A. 181 CHAPTER VIII. Sublime subject of the Falls further pursued — Lake Erie — '-Ajnherstburg — "the Detroit — Sandwich—^ old town of Detroit — beauty and fertility of the country— ^' River and Lake of Saint Claire-^-La Tranche^ or Thames— ^settlements on its borders-^ Lake Huron — Bay of Thunder — 3Iichilimaki7iac — Lake Michigan — Green Bay — inhabitants — Saint Joseph — Cascades of Saint 3Iary'— address of the Indians — ancient Hurons^ and other native tribes — Lake Superior — -remarkable transparency of its wa- ters — Gra?id Portage-^nezv establishment on the Kamanistigua, TO those v/ho are admirers of the picturesque beauties of Nature, it will be almost unnecessary to apologize for the prolixity of description with which the last communication was filled. The subject of the latter part of it, upon which we have already so long dwelt, is at once noble and 'unique Let us therefore attempt to pursue it stiil further, although without the hope of being- able to do it justice. The Saint Lawrence, at the confluence of the Ghippawa, is upwards of a league in width ; and is passed to the opposite shore in boats or bateaux, about three-quarters of a mile higher up than the. village, and by the lower end of Navy island. The transport of goods by land to Fort Slausser;, Q ^82 PALIS OF NIAGARA. two miles above the east side of the falls, was fel^- merly conducted from a place opposite to Queens- town. In passing through the cultivated grounds on this border of the river, immense mounds of earth, thrown up by multitudinous colonies of large black ants, are every where observable. The rapids on this branch of the river, although not so extensive, are nevertheless equally beau- tiful and romantic with those of the western branch. A spot at the distance of fifty yards from the pitch affords a most advantageous and pleasing display of a scene, which in every pcmt of view is accompanied with sublimity. 1 1 ees and rocks form the nearest objects, and betu ten these and the islands a lively picture is exhibited of broken rapids dashing over the slippery rocks, which are hidden beneath the foaming torrents. Amid the sinuosities of the pitch, a part of the American fall is developed to the view of the spec- tator : and the Montmorenci fall is exposed about half way down its depth. The other parts of the eastern fall are concealed, whilst a portion of the %vaters beneath becomes disclosed The niequa- iities of the precipice, which have been formed by the current, are here fully discoverable. Se- veral small isles, covered with woods, appear near the central island, and add to the variety of the scene, which foliage of diversified vei dure, over- topped here and there by the towering cedar^ Qontributes to enliven aiid to adorn. The Horse- FALLS OF NIAGARA, 183 shoe fall beyond the whole, delights the mind with the rapidity of its movements, and the animated effulgence of its hues. From the station which we have now endeavoured to describe, is afforded the most perfect idea of the crescent formed by the three falls, the islands, and the Table Rock. To descend the perpendicular cliff* on the east* ern bank is attended with difficulty, and with some degree of peril. Few of the roots and vines which formerly hung downvv^ards from the trees, any longer remain. In descending the craggy steep, the adventurer must cling to the rock with his hands and feet, moving onward with great caution. On his arrival at the base of the cliff, he is struck by a developemxnt of scenery, yet more awfully stupendous than that which had before been presented to his contemplation. Here na- ture, agitated by the struggles of contending ele- ments, assumes a majestic and tremendous wild- ness of form. Here terror seems to hold his ha- bitation. Here brilliancy, profundity, motion, sound, and tumultuous fury, mingle throughout the scene. The waters appear to pour from the sky with such impetuosity, that a portion is thrown back in clouds of vapour. The mind, expanded by the immensity and splendour of the surround- ing objects, is disposed to give issue to the sen- sations of awe and wonder by which she is im- pressed, in ejaculations similar to that of the Pscilmist of Israel, ** Great and marvellous afC '' thy works I '^ 184 PALLS OF NIAGARA. The huge fragments of rock, which have beeii thrown from the summit of the precipice, by the irresistible strength of the torrent, and w hich have fallen upon each other in towering heaps beneath, suggest to the imagination an idea of what may take place previous to the general consummation of this terrestrial scene, \'\ hen ancient monuments of marble, under which princes of the earth have for ages slept, shall be burst asunder, and torn up from their foundations. Can so vast, so rapid, and so continual a waste of water never drain its sources ? These are in- exhaustible : and the body which throws itself down these cliiFs, forms the sole discharge of four immense inland seas. The effect produced by the cold of winter on these sheets of water thus rapidly agitated, is at once singular and splendid. Icicles of great thick- ness and length are formed along the banks, from the springs which flow over them. The sources^ impregnated with sulphur, which drain from the hollow of the rocks, are congealed into transparent blue columns. Cones are formed by the spray, particularly on the American side, which have in several places large fissures disclosing the interi- or, composed of clusters of icicles, similar to the pipes of an organ. Some parts of the falls are consolidated into fluted columns : and the river above is seen partially frozen. The boughs of the trees in the surrounding woods are hung with FALLS OF NTAGAKA. IS5 purest icicles Ibrmed from the spray ; and, re- flecting in every direction the rays of the sun, produce a variety of prismatic hues, and a lustre ahuost too refulgent to be long sustained by the powers of vision. This part of the Saint Lawrence, which is call- ed the Niagara river, issues from the eastern ex- tremity of Lake Erie ; and discharges itself into Lake Ontario, at the end of thirty-six miles, after undergoing the most violent agitaticms through an interrupted and sinuous channel. At its com- mencement from the former, its breadth is not more than half a mile, but it becomes afterwards enlarged ,^ and separated into two branches by an island of fifteen miles in length. The current is powerful : and the navigation for vessels is ren- dered intricate, by innumerable hidden rocks. In the vicinity of Navy island there are two small-- er isles. The western bank between Chippawa and Lake Erie is almost entirely settled : and the road is level, and in most places good. The Americans have on their side the river, a road ex- tending from Fort Slausser to Buffalo creek, a settlement which contains several Indian and some white families. At a spot called the Black Rock, at the lower end of the rapids, a fort has been traced, and partly constructed, within the limits of the United States. ^2 186 LAKE ERIE. Lake Erie is near three hundred miles in lengtli, and seven hundred and ten miles in circumfer- ence. It derives its name from the Erics or Cats, a native tribe which once dwelt on its bor- ers. The landscape at the entrance exhibits a pleasing variety, consisting of water, points of land, level countries, and distant mountains. The coasts are clothed with oak, ash, chcsnut, apple, and cherry-trees. The south-east shore abounds in game and wild animals. The islands which it contains are Bass islands, Isle Bois blanc. Isle Celeron, Cunningham's island, East Sister, Grose isle, Middle island, Middle Sister, Pointe Felcc isle. Saint George's island, Ship islandp Sandusky island, Turtle island, and West Sister. The old fort on the west side of the entrance in- to the lake, consists of no more than a few houses, a block -house of logs, with some habitations for commercial people, and one or two store-houses. A new stone fort, in the form of a quadrangle, is BOW constructing on rising ground behind the block house. A company of soldiers is usually stationed here, and the men are chiefly employed in assisting to conduct the transport of stores* Two vessels in the service of the British govern- ment are used in navigating this lake. The bottom of the lake consists of lime-stone rock of a blueish colour, with which are mingled many petrified subtances, animal as well as vege- table. The lake k much exposed at its northern LAKE ERIE. 187 extremity, to gales of wind which occasion its waters to rise to a very considerable height. Ves- sels are at these periods in some danger of being driven ashore, their cables being often cut asun- der by the sharp and flinty edges of the rocks which compose the anchorage. At ten miles and a half from the fort, in pursu- ing the northern coast, is found a promontory which advances into the water about three hun» dred and fifty yards, and is named Pointe a Be- neauf, or Abino, affording for vessels a safe an- chorage in its neighbourhood. From hence to the grand river the distance is twenty-four miles ; a hill in the form of a sugar-loaf intervenes, and presents a good land- mark. The townships in this vicinity are rapidly advancing in population and improvement, and several water-mills have been constructed. The Chenette, or river Wave» ny, is eighteen miles more to the westward, and Pointe a la Biehe^ now Turkey Point, lies about fourteen miles further along the coast. In the townships of Woodhouse and Charlotteville, which are situated on this part of the lake, there is a considerable extent of country thinly timber- ed, whose cultivation is facilitated from the want of underwood. It exhibits xaoxQ the appearance of a royal forest in Europe than that of an Ame- rican wilderness. Long Point is a peninsula which extends itself into the water for a distance of twenty miles, se^ 18B LAKE £RI^. panitcd almost from the muin land, the isthmus being little more than eighteen feet in breadth. In advancing towards the south-east, it forms an el- lipse, and travellers in canoes, in order to avoid a length of coast so circuitous, carry their vessels across the neck, to which, if the shoals be added, the breadth is about forty paces. The waters at certain seasons flow over this neck, and insulate Long Point. This promontory is now called the North Foreland, and forms a considerable bay. On the grand river already mentioned, a village of the Iroquois, or Mohawks, is situated ; and between that and Charlotteville, on the lake, a good road is cut through the country. From Long Point to Potnte aux Peres, now called Lan- guard, the distance is upwards of seventy miles. La Barhuey la Tonti, and several smaller streams, flow between these promontories. The banks of the lake, for the greatest part of this way, are ele- vated. Point Pelee, which is about forty miles from Languard, forms a considerable projection into the lake, and is the most southerly spot of all the British territories on the continent of North America: on its w est side is Pigeon Bay, beyond which are several settlements established by Ame- rican loyalists. From the latter point to Maiden, at the e.tra ^ce of the Detroit, the distance is about tJiirty miles. The river aux Cedres and ano ^'ir >rream run between these places. • Ihe fort of Amherv^lburg is placed in tte LAKE ERIE. 189 lownship of Maiden, opposite the isle au JBoi^ blanc ; for the latter, a small detachment of sol- diers is sent from the former, to command the east channel of Detroit. The anchorage near the main shore is safe : and wharfs have been con« structed, and storehouses and dwellings erected. The fort has never been completed ; as it was laid out on a scale much too considerable for so remote a situation. Miamis river empties itself into a bay of the same name, at the south-west end of Lake Erie. It w^s upon the banks of this river, at a short dis- tance from its mouth, that a fort was constructed in 1794, and a garrison posted in it, to stop the progress of General Wayne, who, with an army of Americans, was marching against the fort of Detroit. Some of the sources of this river are not far from the Wabache, which falls into the Ohio. The navigation of Lake Erie, whose greatest depth does not exceed fifty fathoms, is frequently more tedious than that of the other lakes, on ac- count of the changes of wind that are required to carry a vessel through it, and to enter the stn.'t, which runs nearly from north to south. In sor; e of the beautiful isles at its mouth there are remark- able caverns, abounding in stalactites. The strait for a considerable way upwards, is divided into two channels by Grose isle, A low, narrow and^ marshy island, near four miles long. 190 THE DETROIT. next presents itself : and on the eastem coast of the main land the town of Sandwich is situmed, which was laid out for the reception of British set- tlers and traders, who, agreeably to the treaty of commerce and navigation, concluded between the government of Great Britain and that of the Uni- ted States, made their election of continuing hv,b- jects of the former. This place has increased in population and improvements \^ith wonderful ra- pidity. The jail and district court-house are here erected : and as lots were distributed gratis to the iirst persons who constructed dwelling- houses, the town soon became flourishing. On the banks of the strait the settlements are frequent, particularly on the western or American border : adjoining to almost every house there is an or- &h^rd. The improvements are extensive, and executed with taste. Peaches, grapes, apples, and every otlier species of fruit, are here produ- ced in the greatest perfection and abundance. The lands on either side yield in fertility to none «n the continent of America : and this territory may not improperly be stiled the garden of the North. In passing through the strait, when the fruit-trees are in blossom, the scene is gratifying and rich. In the vicinity of Sandwich a mission of the Hurons is established. The old town and fort of Detroit, which in 17'^6 \ms transferred to the government of the United States, is situated on the western border niE DETROIT. 191 #f the river, about nine miles below Lake Saint Claire. It contained upwards of two hundred houses ; the streets were regular ; and it had a range of barracks of a neat appearance, with a spa- cious parade on the southern extremity. The fortifications consisted of a stockade of cedar- posts : and it was defended by bastions nv:\dQ of earth and pickets, on which were mounted pieces of cannon sufficient to resist the hostile efforts of the Indians, or of an enemy unprovided with artillery. The garrison in times of peace consist- ed of about three hundred men, commanded by a field-officer, who discharged also the functions of civil magistrate. The whole of this town was lately burnt to ashes, not a building remaining ex- cept one or two block-houses. In the month of July 1762, Pontiac, a chief of the Miamis Indians, who preserved a deep-rooted hatred to the English, endeavoured to surprise the garrison of Detroit, with an intention of massa- cring the whole of the inhabitants. But an acci- dental discovery having been made of his plot, he and his people were spared by the commandant^ who had tiiem in his power, and vvere permitted to depart in fafety. Far from entertaining any sentiment of gratitude for the generous conduct which had been shewn him, Pontiac continued for a considerable time to blockade the place : and several lives were lost on both sides by frequent skirmishes. 192 LAKI SAINT BLAIRE. The strait above Hog island becomes enlarged, and i\>nns Lake Saint Claire, whose diameter is twenty-six miles, but whose depth is inconsider- able. Its islands are Chenal ecarte, Harsen's island, Hay island, Peach island, and Thomp- son's island. On the western side of this lake were two numerous villages of natives, not far from each other. The first of these called Hu- ron Tsonnontatez, was the same which, having long Vvandered towards the Nurth, formerly fix- ed itself at the cascades of Saint Mary and at Michilimakinac. The second was composed of Pouteouatamis. On the right, somewhat higher up, there was a third village, consisting of the Outaouais, inseparable companions of the Hurons, ever since both these tribes were compelled b\ the Iroquois to abandon their native territories. The lake gives a passage to the waters of the three immense lakes beyond it, receiving them through a long channel, extending from north to south, called the river Saint Claire. The river la Tranche, or Thames, disembogues its waters on the soudi-east side ; its banks are varied by natu- ral meadows and tracts of w ood-lands. The pro- jected town of Chatham is designed to be placed on a fork of this stream, about fifteen miles from its lower extremity, and is intended as a depot for building vessels. Its greatest disadvantage is a bar across its embouchure^ in lake St. Claire : but this is of sufficient depth for vessels of a XA TRANCHE. IffS smaller description, c\nd ior those of a larger size when lightened. A village of Moravians, under the guidance of four missionaries from the United Brethren, is placed twenty miles above the intended site of Chatham. They established themselves in that situation with a design of converting the Indians : and their conduct is peaceable and inonensive. Their chief occupation is in cultivatin.^i' their corn-fields, and making maple sugar. A chapel is erected in the village: Not far from hence there is a spring of pretroleum. In proceeding upwards, the sinuosities of the river are frequent, and the summits of the banks are rather elevated, but not broken ; on either side are villages of the Delawars and Chippawas. Somewhat higher up, at the confluence of twc» forks of this river, is the site of which Gei^^ ral Simcoe made choice, for a town to be named London. Its position, with relation to the U/kes Huron, Erie, and Ontario, is centrical ; and a- round it is a fertile and inviting tract of territory. It commAmicates with lake Huron by a northei.ip or main branch of the same river, and a small portage or carrying, place. One of the branches of the Thames is not far distant from the Oiise, or Grand River But the prospect of being enabled to embrace the advan- tages of this inland navigation can only be contem- plated at a distance. A period of many years- R i94 LAKE HURON. iTiust necessarily elapse before the population and improvements shall have attained that progressive state of prosperity, which will enable the inhabi- tants to bestow attention and expence on the modes of facilitating the more interior communi- cation. Along tlie banks of the Thames there are now several rich setdements : and new establishments are every week added to this, as well as to other parts of the neighbouring country, by the emigra- tion of w^ealthy farmers from the United States, w ho bring v/ith them their stock, utensils, and the money received for the sale of the lands they pos- sessed. Level grounds intervene to break the uniformi- ty which would predominate on this river, were' its borders all of equal height. These situations w ei e formerly cultivated by native tribes. On tl^ic east bide of the fork, between the two main hv i.ches, on a regular eminence, about forty feet above the water, there is a natural plain, denuded of woods, except uhere hmall groves are intersper- sed ; : fib r ding in its present state the appeararice of a beautiful purk, on vrhose formation and cul- ture, taste and experxe had been bestov.ed. Lake Huron is, in point of mcignitude, the se- cond sea of fresh waters on the continent of Ame« rica. and it may be added, on this terraqueous globf Its form is triani'^uiar : its length is two huiidred and iifty miles ; and its circumference^ LAKE HURON. 195 including the coasts of the bays, is one thousand one hundred miles. The islands which it contains are, La Cloche, Duck islands, Fiat islands, Isle' la Crosse, Isle Traverse, Manitouaiin isiaiids, Whitewood island, Michiiimakinac, Nibii^h is- land, Prince William's islands, island of Saint Joseph, Sugar island, Thunderbay islands on the south, and a multitude of isles on the north coasti The channel betvvceu lakes Saint Claire and Huron is twenty-five miles in lengtli ; and pre- sents on either side a scene no less fertile than pleasing. It runs ahiiost in a straiglit direction, lined by lofty forest-trees, interspersed with ele- gant and extensive meadows, and studded with islands, some of which are of considerable size. On the south side of lake Huron is the bc;y of Saguina, whose mouth is eighteen mik^ in width, whose length is forty-five miles, ifnd into u hose boUom two rivers empty themselves. On that which comes from the south, the Outaouais have a village ; and the soil is reputed to be fertile. Six miles above the bay, two considerable rivers present themselves. The bay of Thunder lies to the eastward of Cabot's lie ad ; and is nine miles in width, but of small depth. It is so denominated from tjie fre- quent thunder-storms which there take place, generated by vapours issuing from the hjid in its vici.nty. Travelleis, in passing this part of the feke, tku'dly ever escape the encounter ox these^ t 196 LAKE HUTvON. awful phenomena. The storm at first appears like a small round cloud, which enlarges as it ra- pidly approaches, and spreads its gloom over a corisiderable extent. The vivid lightnings flash their forked fires in every direction : and peals of thunder roar and burst over the head, with a noise more loud, and more tremendous in this, than in any other part of North America. Michillmakinac is a smrall island, situated at the north-west angle of lake Huron, towards the en- trance of the channel which forms the communi- cation v/ith lake Michigan, in latitude forty- five degrees, forty-eight minutes, thirt3^-four se« conds, and upwards of a thousand miles from Quebec. It is of a round form, irregularly ele- vated, and of a barren soil. The fort occupies ihe highest ground; and consists of four w^oodea block-houses forming the angles, the spaces be- tween them being filled up with cedar pickets* On the shore below the fort, there are several storehouses and dwellings. The neighbouring part of the continent, which separates lake Supe- rior from lake Huron, derives its name from this island. In 1671, Father Marquette came thither with a party of Hurons, whom he prevailed on to form a settlement. A fort was constructed, and it afterwards became an important post. It Wcis die place of general assemblage for all the French who went to trafiic with the dista;it na- tions, it was tue asylum of ail tiie savages' who te' I tAKE Hl/KON. 197 eame to exchange their furs for merchandise. W:ie 1 individuals belonging to tribes at war with each other, came thither and met on commercial adventure, their animosities were suspended. Tiie natives who reside there have no occasion to betake themselves to the fatigues of the chace^ in order to procure a subsistence. When they are inclined to industry, they construct canoes of the bark of the birch-tree, which they sell for from two hundred to three hundred livres each. They catch herrings, white lish, and trout, of from four to five feet in length, some of which weigh seven- ty pounds. This fish, which is bred in lake Michigan, and is know^n by the name of Michiii- makiuiic trout, affords a most delicious food It is extremely rich and delicate ; and its fat, re- sembling the nature of spermaceti, is never cloy- ing to the appetite.. The young men, notwithstanding the abun^ dance of food derived from the quantities of fish, employ a great part of the summer in the chace, for which they travel to the distance of forty or fifty leagues, and return loaded with game. In autumn they again depart for the winter chace^ which is the most valuable and productive for the furs ; and return in the spring with skins of bea- vers, martins, foxes, and other anim.ais, with bear's grease, and with provision of the flesh of that animal and of stags, buffaioes, and elks, cured by smoke* ?v 2 198 ILAtt HTfROjr. Their tradition cojiceniing the name of this lit- tle barren island is curious. They say that Mi- chapous, the chief of spirits, sojourned long in that vicinity They believed that a mountain on the border of the lake was the place of his abode : and they called it by his name. It was here, say the}^, that he first instructed man to fabricate nets for taking fish, and where he has collected the pitatest ouantitv of these finnv inhabitants of the waters. On the island he left spirits, named ima- kinakosj and from these aerial possessors, it has received the appellation ol Michilimakinac This place came into possession of the American go- vernment in 1796, the period of delivering over all the other forts within its boundaries. The strait between lakes Huron and Michigan, or the lake of the Illinois, is fifteen miles in length, and is subject to a flux and reflux, which are by no means regular. The currents flow with such rapiaity, thut when the wiitd blows, ail the nets which are set are drifted away and lost : and some- tim(^s during strong winds tlie ice is driven against the direct!'. 'H of the currents with much violence. Whf.v the s.>vages in those quarters make a feast or fish, lhe\ invoke the spirits ot the island ; thank them for their bouiity ; and entreat them to com liue their protection to their iamilies. TJrey (^eniLUid of them to preserve their nets and ca1u>es from tne sv/elling and destructive billows, when tjie icikesi are agiiated by storps, AIL who assist tAKE MICHIGAN. 190 m the ceremony ieiigtueii their voices together, which is an act of gratitude. In the observance of this duty of their rehgion, they were formerly ve- ry punctual and scrupulous : but the French ral- lied them so much upon the subject, that they be- came ashamed to practise it openly. They arc still, however, remarked to mutter something, which has a reference to the ceremony which their forefathers were accustomed to perform in honour of their insular deities. Lake Michigan is two hundred and sixty miles in length, and nine hundred and forty five in cir- cumference. Its discharge is into Lake Huron, through the strait already mentioned : and it coii- sequently forms a part of the Saint Lawrence. Its breadth is about seventy miles On the right of its entrance are the Beaver islands, and on the left those of the Pouteouatamis, in travelling from south to north. The eastern coast is full of rivers and rivulets near to one another, which have their source in the peninsula that separates Lake Huron from this lake. The principal of these are Mar- quette's river, the Saint Nicholas, the great river whose source is near the bay of Saguina on Lake Huron, the Raisin, the Barbue the Maramey, the Black river, on v/hose borders there is much gin- seng, and the river Saint Joseph, which is the most considerable of the v/holc, and which, through its various sinuosities, may be ascended nejir r, hun- dred airf fifty miles. At sixty miles from kn 200 tAKE MICHIGAiT. mou^h, the Frendi had a fort and mission, neat' a viiKge of the Pouteouatamis i\t nine or ten miles from the Saint Joseph are found thesoim es of the Theakiki, navigable for canoes, and which falls into the river of the liiiuois. The western coast of the lake has been but little frequented. Tow^ards the north is found the entrance of the bay des Puans, a name given by the French to a savage nation residing there : but it is more ge- nerally distinguished by the appellation of the Green bay. Upon its borders stood a French fort: and a mission called Saint Frangois Xavier was established in this vicinity. The bottom of the bay is terminated by a fallof water, beyond which there is a small lake, called Winnebago, receiving the Fox river flowing from the west. After mak- ing a portage of two miles, the traveller may pro- ceed along its course to the Ouiscousin, which unites with the Mississippi. The waters in Green bay have a flux and re- flux : and from the quantity of swampy grounds, and of mud sometimes left exposed to the sun, and causing an unpleasant vapour, it originally re- ceived the name of Piiante, This agitation of the waters proceeds, doubtless, from the pressure of winds on the centre of the lake. The bay is one hundred and twenty miles in depth ; ana its width is from twenty-four to thirty miles at its entrance, which, by the islands already noticed, is separa- ted into severed channels. On the borders of the LAKE MICHIGAN-. 201 Malhominis river, whose waters flow into this bay, there is a village composed of natives collected from several tribes, who employ themselves in fishing and in cultivating the ground. They are gratified by entertaining passengers, a quality w hich among savages is in the highest estimation ; for it is the custom of the chiefs to bestow all they possess, if they wish to acquire any pre-eminent elegree of consideration. The predominating pro- pensity of these savages is hospitality to strangers, who find here, in every season, all kinds of re- freshment which these territories produce : and the principal return which is expected, is a com- mendation of their generosity. The Sakis, the Pouteouatamis, and Malhomi- nis, here reside. There are also about four cabins or families of sedentary Nadouaicks, whose natioa was exterminated by the Iroquois. The Oueni- begons, or Puans, were formerly the possessors of this bay, and of a great extent of the neigh- bouring country. The tribe was numerous, for- midable, and fierce. They violated every princi- ple of nature. No stranger was suffered to enter their territory with impunity. The Malhominis, who dared not to complain of their tyranny, were the only people with whom they had any inter- course. They believed themselves invincible. They declared war on every tribe they could dis- cover, although their ann'^ consisted only^ of hatch- ats, and of knives formed of stoiie, Tiiey refused ^202 LAKE MTCHTGAN', to iiave any commerce with the French. The Outaouais sent to them emi)ass.^.dors, whom they had the ferocity to devour. This instance of a- trocity roused with indignation all the neigliboiir- ing tribes, who joined with the Outaouais ; and^ receiving arms from the French, made frequent irruptions on the Puans. The immbcrs of the latter became thus rapidly diminished. Civil wars, at length, arose amongst them. They re- proached each other as the cause of their misibr- tunes, by having perlidiousiy sacrificed the Ou- taouaisiaii deputies, who were bringing them knives and other articles for their use, of wiiose value they w^ere ignorant. Wlien they found themselves so vigorously attacked, they were con- stramed to uriite into one -^-iilagc, w here they still amounted to live thousand men. They formed against the Outagamis a party of five hundred warriors, but these perished by a tempest w hich arose during their passage on the waters. Their enemies compassionated their loss, by saying that the gods ought to be satisfied w^ith such rei- terated punishments ; and ceased to make war against the remainder of their tribe. The :-;courg- es w ith w hich they had been aiSicEed awoke not, however, in their minds, a sense of the turpitule of their conduct : and they pursued w-ith re nova- feed vigor the practice of their former enormities. . The north co nst of Lake Huron is intersected by several rivers v/hicli HokV liiitiier, A chain o^ LAKE HURON*, ^OB^ islands, called the iManit-u .lins extends about a hundred and fifty miles from east to west, oppo- site to the lower or eastern extremity of which French river diseiabogues itself The eastern coast of the lake is studded with isles, and cut by rivulets and rivers, v»diich descend from several sm-ill lakes, the most considerable of v^^hich is Toronto, already described under the name of Simcoe : this, it has been remarked, has a com- muincation with Lake Ontario, after a xcry short carrying- place. Lake Michigan is separated from Lake Supc^ rior by a tongue of land, at least ninety miles in length and twenty -four in breadth. The sterility of the soil renders it incapable of affordirig suste- nance to any nihabitants. it may be denominated an island, as it is intersected by arjver, commu- nicutmg with bodi of these lakes Saint Joseph is an iskiiid of about hevent\ -five miles in circum- ference, situ ited nei:r the Detour, or passage for vesbcls, at tlie northern extremity of Lake Huron. Itw^asmade choice of in 1795 as a military post, when Micliilim ;kinac should be no longer in pos- session of the British gr.vernme2:it. The tr,rt, W'hich is one of the handsomest of the kind in North America, is situated at th.e southern extre- mity, upon a peninsula about fifty feet above the level of the v/ater, and connected ^vith the is.'.nd by a low isthmus of sand, about tlu'ee hun^K^d yards in breadth. 204 CASCADES OF ST. M MlV. A company of infantry, and some .rtillerj soL diers, are there stationed. Althou^jih more d.aa a degree of latitude to *hf southward oi Quelx c-, the winters tre of equal duntion and seventy as at that place. The soil consists of a black nioiud, of bout fifteen inches in depth, upon a stratum of -^and, and is not of a very fertile naturcc The rouLe for canoes is between tiie Manitouahns is- lands, olso the northern coast i>l S dnt Joseph, and north nrtain-iand, m their vo} ■■^i: upwards to Lake Superior. The navigable channel for vessels is through the centre of the lake, and betvi een the western extremity of the Manitoualins islands and the south- west main-land, through a narrow pas- sage called the Detour, and between the small isle la Crosse and the same coast. The intricate na- vigation between the islands renders a guide ne- cessary. Nibish island intervenes between Saint Joseph and the western shore. Sugar island is long and narrow, bending towards the north in form of a crescent, and causing an enlargement of the w^aters between it and the continental coast. This is called Lake George. The falls, or rather cascades, of Saint Mary, are nothing else than a violent current of the waters of Lake Superior, which, being interrupted in their descent by a number of large rocks, that seem to di'pute the passage, form dangerous rapids of 4hree miles in length, precipitating their white ii I OASCADES OF ST. MARY. 205» awd broken waves one upon another in irregular gradations. These cascades are nine miles be- low the entrance into Lake Superior, and about fifty miles from the Detour, already mentioned. The whole of this distance is occupied by a va^ riety of islands, which divide it into separate chan- nels, and enlarge its width, in some situations, be- yond the extent of sight. It is at the bottom of the rapids, and even a- mong their billows, which foam with ceaseless impetuosity, that innumerable quantities of excel- lent fish may be taken, from the spring until the winter. The species which is found in the great- est abundance is denominated by the savages, at^ ticameg, or white fish. The Michilimakinae trout, and pickerell, are likewise caught here. These afford a princip-^l means of subsistence tj^ a number of native tribes. No small degree of address, as well as strength, is employed by the savages in catching these fish. They stand in an erect attitude in a birch canoe : and even amid the billows, they push with force to the bottom of the waters, a long pole, at the end of which is fixed a hoop, with a net in the form of a bag, into which the fish is constrained to enter. They watch it with the eye when it glides among the rocks ; quickly ensnare it ; and dfctg it into the canoe. In conducting this mode of fishing niuch practice is required ; as an inexperienced, S / 206 CASCADES OF ST. MAKV. person may, by the elForts which he is obliged i® make, overset the canoe, and inevitably perish. The convenience of having fish in such abun- dance attracts to this situation, during sunimer, several of the neighbouring tribes, who are of an erratic disposition, and too indolent for the toils of husbandry. They, therefore, support themselves by the chace in winter, and by fishing in summer. The missionaries stationed at this place embraced the opportunity of instructing them in the duties of Christianity : and their residence was distin- guished by the appellation of the Mission of the Falls of Saint Mary, which became the centre of several others. The original natives of this place were the jP«- troidting Dach-Iriniy called by the French, saul- teurs^ as the other tribes resorted but occasionally thither. They consisted only of one hundred and fifty men ; these, however, afterwards united thenaselves with three other tribes, who shared in common with them the rights of the territory. Their residence was here established, except when they betook themselves to the chace. The na- tives named Nouquet, ranged throughout the southern borders of Lake Superior, which was their natal soil. The Outchibons, with the Ma- ramegs, frequented the northern coasts of the same lake, which they considered as their country. Be- sides these four tribes, there were several others dependent on this mission. The Achiiigouans, CASCADES OF ST. MARY. 20T the Amicours, and the Missasagues, came like- wise to fish at the fall of Saint Mary, and to hunt on the isles, and on the territories in the vicinity of Lake Huron. The ancient Hurons, from whom the lake de- rives its name, dwelt on its eastern confines. They were the first natives in this quarter who hazarded an alliance with the French, from whom they re- ceived Jesuit missionaries, to instruct them in the christian religion. These Europeans were stiled by the natives, Masters of Iron : and they vv ho remained in those regions taught them to be for- midable to their enemies. Even the Iroquois courted the alliance of the Hurons, who, with too great facility, relied on the pretended friendship and professions of that guileful people. The Iro- quois at length found means to surprise them, and to put them in disorder, obliging some to fly to Quebec, and others towards different quarters. The account of the defeat of the Hurons spread itself among the neighbouring nations : and con- sternation seized on the greater part of them. From the incursions wliich the Iroquois made when least expected, there was no longer anv se- curity. The Nepicirenians fled to the north. The Saulteurs and the Missasagues penetrated to the westward. The Outaouais and some other tribes bordering on Lake Huron, retired to the south. The Hurons withdrew to an island, where their late disaster only tended to endeur the remem-^ 208 CASCADES OF ST. I.IARV. brance of their commerce with the French, which was now frustrated. After an attempt, attended with peril, they, however, again found their way to these Europeans. By a second irruption of the Iroquois, they were driven from their island, and took refuge among the Pouteouatamis. Part of the Hurons descended to Quebec; and formed a set- tlement to the northward of that place, of which an account has already been given. The tribes frequenting the northern territories are savage and erratic, living upon fish and the produce of the chace ; often upon the inner bark of trees. A kind of dry grey moss, growing on the rocks, called by the Cunadians, tripe de ro^ chers, not unfrequently supplies them with lood. They ensnare and shoot beavers, elks, cariboos, and hares of an uncommon size. The lofty (grounds abound in blue or huckle-berries, which they collect and dry, to eat in times of scarcity. But as these regions are in general sterile, many cf the inhabitants perish by famine. Those whose hunting grounds are towards the north-west, are more favoured by the productions of the solL A species of rice, and wild oats, grow naturally in the marshes, and supply the deficien- cy of maize. The forests and plains are filled with bears and cattle : and the smaller islands, lakes, and rivers, abound w^ith beavers. These people frequented the vicinity of Lakes Superior and Nipissing, to traffic with the natives who had CASCADES OF ST. MARY. 209 intercourse with the French. Their principal commerce was, however, at Hudson's- bay, where they reaped a greater profit. They were pleased to receive iron and kettles in exchange for their worn peltry, of the value of which they were for some time ignorant. The Nepicirenians and the Amehouest inhabi- ted the coasts of Lake Nipissing. A great part of them were connected with the tribes of the north, from whom they drew much peltry, at an inconsiderable value. They rendered themselves masters of all the other natives in those quarters, until disease made great havock among them : and the Iroquois, insatiable after human blood, compelled the remainder of their tribe to betake themselves, some to the French settlements, o- thers to Lake Superior, and to the Green bay on Lake Michigan. The nation of the Otter inhabited the rocky caverns on Lake Huron, where they were shelter- ed by a labyrinth of islands and of capes. They subsisted on Indian corn, on fish, and on the pro^ duce of the chace. They were simple, but cou- rageous ; and had frequent intercourse with the nations of the north. The Missasagues, or Esti- aghics, are situated on the same lake, on a river generally called by the latter name. They, as well as the Saulteurs of Saint Mary, spread themselves along the borders of Lake Huron, where they pro- ciure the bark of trees to form cauoes, and to con- 210 CASCADirS OF ST. MARY, Struct their huts. The waters are so transparent, that fish can be seen at the depth of thirty feet. Whilst the women and children are collecthig ber- ries, the men r;re occupied in darting sturgeon. When their grain is almost ripe, they return heme. On the approach of winter they resume their stations near the lake, for the purpose of the chace ; and forsake it in the spring, to plant their Indian corn and to fish at the falls. Such are the occupations of these people, who, if they were acquainted with economy, might live In abundance, which but a small portion of labour is here required to secure. But they are so ha- bituated to gluttony and waste, that they take no thought for their subsistence on the following day. There arc thus several who perish from hunger. They seldom reserve any provisions : and if a part happen to be left, it is from their being inca- pable of consuming the whole. When a stran- ger arrives among them, they will offer him their last morsel of food, to impress him with a persua- sion that they are not in indigence. The forefa- thers of these natives were brave : but they have been so long in the enjoyment of indolence and tranquillity, that they have degenerated in valour, and make war only on the beasts of the forest, and the inhabitants of the waters. The Hurons, more prudent, look forward to the future, and support their families. As they ^rc ill general sober, it is seldom they are subject CASCADES OF ST. MARV, 211 to distress. The tribe is artful, political, proud, and of greater extent of capacity than most of the other natives. They are liberal, grave, de- cent in discourse, in which they express them- selves with accuracy, insinuathig, and not subject to be duped in their dealings. The Outaouais have endeavoured to assume the manners and maxims of this people. 1 hey were formerly extremely rude, but, by inter- course with the Hurons, they have become more intelligent. They imitated their valour ; and made themselves formidable to all the nations with whom they were at enmity, and respected hy those with whom they were in alliance. The factory of the company of merchants o£ Montreal is situated at the foot of the cascades of Saint Mary, on the north side, and consists of store-houses, a saw-mill, and a bateau-yard. The saw- mill supplies with plank, boards, and spars, all the posts on Lake Superior, and particularly Piiie point, which is nine miles from thence ; has a dock -yard for constructing vessels ; and is the residence of a regular master-builder, with several artificers. At the factory there is a good canal, with a lock at its lower entrance, and a causeway for dragging up the bateaux and canoes. The vessels of Lake Superior approach close to the head of the canal, where there is a wharf; those of Lake Huron to the lowor end of the cascades. These rapids are much shorter on the north thaa 212 LAKE SUPERiaR. on the south side, a circumstance occasioned by the interposition of small islands. The company has lately caused a good road to be made, along which their merchandise is transported on wheel- ed carriages from the lower part of the cascades to the depots. The houses are here constructed of squared timber clap-boarded, and have a neat appearance. On the north side of the rapids, about six fa- milies, consisting of Americans and domiciliated Indians, are established. The taxes imposed by the government of the United States upon all kinds of merchandise, are unfavourable to the com- merce of its subjects with the Indians in these re- gions. Lake Superior, to which was formerly given the name of Tracey, and likewise that of Conde, composes a collection of fresh waters of the first magnitude in the known world. Although seve- ral posts in its vicinity were long occupied by French traders, and by missionaries, yet only a small portion of geographical information was ob- tained through their means. The length of this lake is four hundred miles, and its circumference one thousand five hundred and tvvcnty miles. It is subjected to frequent storms : and a swell si- milar to that of the tide of the ocean, rolls in upon its coasts. The navigation is here dangerous when the wind blows with strength : and travellers, for this reason, keep near to the north shore, which LAKE SUPERIOR. 213 beingbordered throughout by barren rocks of con- siderable elevation, nature has provided at no great distances from each other, a variety of small harbours, and places of safe retreat. Pine point and Point au Foin form the entrance into the lake. White-fish point is on the south shore, opposite to which, on the north coast, and at the distance of fifteen miles across, there is a mine of copper, formerly worked by the French. That metal is here found in native purity, uncontaminated by mixture with any extraneous substances. The cape, about nine miles from hence, is in latitude forty-six degrees, thirty. two minuteSj fifty-eight seconds ; and in longitude eighty lour degrees, nineteen minutes, fifty- seven seconds. The traveller, on passing White-fish point, is a- greeably astonished by the developement of a vast and unbounded expanse of crystalline waters. A great evaporation must here necessarily take place : and in summer this is dissolved in the dry and warm atmosphere ; except during the prevalence of an easterly wind, which by the cool- ness and humidity it carries with it, condenses the vapour into fogs, and collects it into torrents of rain. The waters of this lake appear to be sub- ject, at particular periods, to a great increase, suc- ceeded by a gradual diminution ; and along the rocks of the eastern coast fines are oLser\'. i -le, which indicate the rise and fall. The i^reatest 214 LAKE SUPERIOR. distance between these horizontal marks impress-- ed by the waters, is not more than five or six feet. The greater or less quantities of snows, which in winter cover to a considerable depth immeasura- ble regions, and which on their dissolution flows into this peilucidocean, may probably be produc- tive of this phenomenon. The soil in the vicini- ty of the eastern shore is rocky and shallow, yield- ing only stunted trees, brambles, strawberries,^ raspberries, and other fruits of humble growth, the feeble tribute of sterility. The bears find in them a grateful food, and are attracted thither. Moose and fallow deer also range along these, coasts. The islands in this lake are isle aux Erahles^ isle of Michipicoton, Carribou island, isles ance a. Bouteille^ Peek island, M'llles isles ^ isle Roy ale ^ isles of the twelve Apostles, and Montreal island on the south-w^est coast. The most remarka- ble bays are Michipicoton bay, Black bay, Thun- r bay, Fond du Lac or West bay, iVnce de ^lagoumegon, whose point is in latitude forty- en degrees, two minutes, twenty seconds, and longitude ninety -one degrees, four minutes ; Quieounan bay, formed by a large peninsula, situated on the south, and bay dcs isles an pais flat. J "he river Michipicoton communicates with the territory of the Hudson's bay company : and the society of merchants at Montre^J, who trad^ JKAKE StrJERIOR. 2lS to the north-west regions, have considerable posts established on it. A fort, consisting ol a stociva* ded square, with a dwelling-house and two small store-houses, are erected at the mouth of the larg« er Peck, there being two rivers of that name, which fall into the lake on the northern coast. The rapids on this river are numerous : but the carry- ing-places are in general short. Beyond Otter Head, in latitude' forty -eighty four, six ; longitude, eighty-five, fifty-two, twen- ty-nine ; at the bottom of a bay formed by that point, a waterfall of seventy feet in height, pre- sents Itself; and contributes by its sound, splen- dour, and movements, to enliven the stillness and solitude which prevail in these distant and deso- late regions. The river Nipigon, or Lemipisake, flows into the wide and extensive bay of the isles an pais plat i and has a near communication with fiudson's bay. It has several posts established on its bor- ders. It forms the discharge of Lake Ahmipi-^ gon : and at its north-east source travellers may arrive, by means of a portage, at the Pciray, which runs into Hudson's bay. The commerce of the Hudson's bay company possessing many advantages over that which is conducted from Canada by means of the lakes, might be rendered much more productive than it is at present. The articles which are exchar\ged with the natives for their furs, can be afforded s^t 210 iAKE SUPERIOR. a aiuch cheaper rate thiough the route by the bay, than by the tedious, difficult, and circuitous Wuy of the rivers and lakes of Canada : and the Indians, for this reason, give a preference to the commerce of the former. A place named the Grande Portage is situated ©n a river at the western side of the lake, in a bay which forms a crescent, and whc^ borders are cleared and inclosed* It is now in possession of the government of the United States ; and was until lately a place of great resort for the trading companies of Montreal ; as the principal depot for these regions, was here established. The de- fence, placed under a hill of upwards of four hun- dred feet in elevation, surmounted by a conge- ries of others, consists of a large picketed fortj with three gates, over which are two guard-hous- es. The ranges of buildings for stores and dwell- ing-houses, which were occupied for the accom- modation of the different persons engaged m the north-west trade, are very extensive. The canoe- rai d, for constructing canoes used for penetrating utu the interior parts of the country, is upon a ^reat scale ; seventy canoes per annum having been contracted for. The number of persons en« camped in tents and in huts, on the outside of the fort, was, at certain periods, very great; and tended to excite surprise thut so considerable an assemblage of men, under no military restraint, should be retained in obedience, and in a state of LAKE SUPERIOR. 217 iiolerable regularity, so far beyond the limits of all civil jurisdiction. The fur trade was for some time conducted by two rival associations, who are now united. The establishment of the new company was about a quarter of a mile from that ^f the old; and consisted of a fort, picketed, and of buildings on the same plan as those of the latter, but upon a more circumscribed scale. Fort Charlotte is placed upon the river la Tour~ fe, which has a communication with the interior ootmtrv. It consists of a stockaded €iuadran2:le. witli buildings and stores Vvithin it The first carrying-place, in ascending that communication, is called the Ferdrix, about three hundred and eighty yards in length. At the uppermost extre- mity, an elegant and romantic waterfall appears, throwing, like a moving white curtain from the summit of a cliff of sixty feet in perpendicular al- titude, revolving groups of resplendent foam. The river Kamanastigua, which discharges its waters into Thunder bay, is about two hundred yards in width, and from ten to twelve feet in depth in the southern branch, there being three chaii- nels. The shore for about half a mile from the lake is low and swampy, after which it rises, and presents a soil of the richest quality. The first branch is found three miles up the river. The middle branch is about half a mile in length, and very narrow : the third is the largest^ and about T 218 LAKE SUPERIOR. half a mile from the lake. Upon this branch the Company of merchants of Montreal have establish- ed their new posts. A square of five hundred and twenty feet is inclosed with lofty pickets j within which are structures uniformly arranged, fitted for every purpose and accommodation. Hiilf a mile above this post there is the site of an old fort, which, during the French government, was the principal commercial depot in this remote region. The first rapid is six miles up the river," the first carrying-pkice is twenty miles. The mouth of this river is sheltered by a rocky island : and the entrance is perfectly secure. The bar has seven feet of water over it, and ten or twelve feet both within and without : and the bay itself is protected by islands. Lake Superior receives into its bosom near for- ty rivers, some of which are ef considerable mag- niiude. It is well stored with a variety of fish, the largest and best of which are the trout, the white fish, ar.d the sturgeon, of a quality superior to that caught in the lower parts of the Saint Law- rence. The waters are more pure and pelhicid than those of any other lake upon this globe : and the fish, as well as the rocks, can be distinctly seen at a depth incredible to persons who have ne- ver visited those regions The density of the medium ©n which the vessel moves appeal^ scaicely to exceed that of the atmosphere : arid -the traveller becoimes impressed with awe at the LAKE SUPERIOR* 21D iiovelty of his situation. The southern caist is in many places fiat ; and the soil is of a sandy and barren nature. Ahhough the course of the Saint Lawrence is usually computed at no more than about two thousand five hundfed miles, yet the distance of countr}- through which a river flows is by no means a just criterion of its grandeur : and tlie rivers Amazon and la Plata, from the greater length of their courses, have been allowed, in the order of magnitude, to usurp a preference to the former, which, notwithstanding, is the most na- vigable upon earth. Ships of considerable size, "v^hich every year arrive irorn Great Britain, as- cend this river with ease as fe^ras Montreal, a dis- tance of five hundred miles from the sea. In ad- vancing higher up its course, instead of diminish- ing, like almost all other rivers, in width as \^'ell as depth, the traveller is impressed with astonish- ment at its majesty ; and, in man}^ places, its ap- parently unbounded extension. At the distance of two thousand miles from its mouth, vessels of the first class might be constructed and navigated, a property hitherto undiscovered in any odier flood of fresh waters, aud ^\hich, therefore, has a claim to precedence, as the iai gest and most stu- pendous iM this world<^ 220 CAXAl)^, CHAPrER IX. Shimverce of Canada^-Fur trodc'^paper money-^ seA. 221 intrinsic value and importance, the settlements would have advanced with greater rapidity : and reciprocal advantages to the parent state and to the colony, would have arisen. But the splendour of the precious metals which were imported from Mexico and Peru, had so dazzled the eyes of all the inhabitants of Europe, that a territory which produced not these, was considered as undeserving of attention. New France fell, therefore, into disrepute, before a knov/ledge of its soil, and of the species of pro- ductions of v^'hich it was capable, could be ascer- tained. Even they, who were convinced that considerable advantages might be drawn from it, took no active measures towards promoting the means of their accompUshment. Much time v.- as allowed to elapse, before the choice of a situation was made. The land was often cleared, without a previous examination of the qualities of its soiL It was planted with grain ; buildings were erect- ed ; and after much labour had thus been lavished on it, the colonist frequently abandoned it, and went to settle elsewhere. This spirit of incon= stancy contributed to the loss of Acadia to Frar.ce ; and operated as an insuperable barrier to the ac- quisition of any advantage from that extensive peninsula. The commerce of Canada was long confiied to the fisheries and to the fur trade. j'he cod= £§hery was carried on at the Great Baakj and or 222 CANADA. the coast of Newforindiaiid, some time before the nver Suint Lw^wrence was explored. The harboui* and bay of Placentia were occupied by the French. The province of Acadia, now called Nova Sco- tia, V. as originally shared among different indi- viduals, no one of whom enriched himself, whilst the English ^^xre conducting upon the coast an extensive and profitable fishery. The settlements which these proprietors made, destitute of solidi- ty, and formed upon no regular plan, were at length abandoned, little more improved than when they were first entered on ; and fallen into such disrepute, that the country did not regain its cha^ nicter until the moment when it became lost to France. When this region was first discovered, it abounded with wild anim.als of great variety of species. A handful of Frenchmen found means to sweep these extensive forests of their lour- footed inhabitants, and in less thai:i an age to cause them totally to disi^ppear. Some there wtre^ whose species became entirely extinguished. Orignals and elks were killed for no other design but that of aiDusement, and of exercising address in the chace The authority of government was not intei posed to remedy a disorder so destruc- tive. But from the avarice of individuals who ap- plied th'wmselves only to this commerce, a yet gif' \ter vjI was produced The emigrants whp strnved fi^om France were CAf?ADA* 223 in general in a state of wretchedness and poverty; and were desirous of re-appearing in their na- tive country in a better condition. In the com- mencement of the settlement, there was little impediment to the acquisition of wealth by the produce of the chace. The Indians were ytt ig- norant of the treasures which their native woods afforded ; and became acquainted with their va- lue, only from the avidity with \vhich the furs w ere snatched from their hands. In exchange for ar- ticles of no value whatever, prodigious quantities were acquired from them When they had even become more acquainted with the importance of this species of commerce, and more attentive to their own interests, it was still for a long time ea- sy to satisfy them at a small expence. With some degree of prudence, therefore, it would not have becij difficult to have continued this traffic upon an advantageous footing. Considerable fortunes were made with rapidity. But they w^ere almost as quickly dissipated as they hud been acquired ; like those moving hills, which in the sandy de- serts of Asia or of Africa, are drifted and deposit- ed by the whirlwinds, and which possessing no consistency or solidity, are by the same cause again as suddenly dispersed. Nothing was more common in New France, than to behold individuals, protracting in wretch- edness and miseiT a languishing old age^ after Imving through folly lost the opportunities winch 224) CANADA. were afforded them of procuring an honourable subsistence. The condition ( f these people, un- worthy of the fortunes which it was once in their power to have crained, would by no means have become a subject of pubUc regret, had not ill ef- fects thence arisen to the colony, which was soon reduced to the mortification of finding almost to- tally exhausted, or diverted into other channels, a source of wealth which might have continued to How into its bosom. The origin of its ruin was generated from its too great abundance. By the immense accumulation of beaver skins, which always constituted a principal part of this commerce, so great a quantity was found in the magazines, that there was no longer any demand for them ; whence it arose, that the merchants were unwilling to receive any more The adven- turers theiefore, ^^ ho in Canada were stiled Cou- reiirs deBois, embraced the only opportunity which was offered for disposing of them,by carrying them to the English : and many of these people esta- blished themselves in the province of New York, The atten;pts made to prevent those desertions^ were not attended with success. On the contra^ ry, they whom interest had led into the territories of the English, were -there retained by the dread of punishment, should they return to their coun- try : and others, whose inclination disposed them to enjoy the freedom and libertinism of an err tic Biode of iifcj remained among the savages, from CANADA. 22S whom they could afierwards be distinguished, on- ly by tiieir exceeding them in vice and mimora- lit) • To recal these fugitives, recourse was at length had to the pubUcation of amnesties : and even this measure was long of little avail By prudence and perseverance, it at length produced in some degree the intended effect. Another mode yet more efficacious was employ- ed, that of granting to persons, on whose fideli- ty a reliance could be placed, licences to trade in the territories of the Indians, and of prohibiting all other inhabitants from leaving the colony. The nature of these licences^ and the conditions on which they were bestowed, has already been described in another work. ^ From this practice it arose, that a great proportion of the young men were continually w^andering throughout the distant forests : and although they committed not, at least so openly, the disorders which had brought such discredit on this occupation, jet they failed not to contract a habit of libertinism^ o5 which they could never wholly divest tliem- seives. They there lost all relish for industry : they exhausted their strength : they became im- patieftt of all restraint : and when no longer able to undergo the fatigue of these voyages, winch happened at an early period of life, because their exertions were excessive, they became destitute c' • ' ^^so-irce, and unfir [or ^he (iricrions '/f -''^e- * History of Canada, Book IV. page 19^. ^26 CANADA. ty. Hence proceeded the cause thut agricuiturc was long neglected ; tliat immense tracts of ler- tile lands remained uncultivated ; and that the progress of population was retarded. It was repeatedly proposed to abolish these li- cences, so prejudicial to the advancement of im- provement, in such a manner as that the com- merce might not suffer, and with a view of ren- dering it even more flourishing. This design was to be effected by the formation of small set- tlements, in situations where it Vv'ould be conve- nient for the natives to assemble at certain sea- sons of the year. By this means it was conceiv- ed, that these vast countiies would become insen- sibly peopled ; and that the savages, attracted by the assistance and kindness ^\ hich they wou.d ex- perience from the French, would perhaps aban- don their erratic mode of life ; \\ ould thereby be exposed to less misery ; w ould multiply iiisicad of diminish in numbers ; and would form such an -ittachment to these Europeans, as perhaps would induce them* to become fellow subjects. Tiie several settlements oi Lorette, ol the sault Saint Louis, and others of the Aigonquins and of the domiciliated Abinaquis, exhibited examples of the probable success of that undertaking. It was however never put in execution : and the na- tives have rapidly decreased in numbers. An extended chain of settlements, at convenient dis^ tances from each other, might have been made : CANABA. 227 livvl the colonies of Canada and Louislanii being thus connected, would have been enabled to hi^vc afFvirded each other mutual assistance. B} means like these the English, in less than a century and a half, peopled more than fifteen hundred miles of territory ; and thus created a power on this con- tinent not less formidable than dreaded by the French Canada has for many years carried on with the islands in the gulph of Mexico, a commerce in flour, planks, and other wood adapted for build- ings* As there is not, perhaps, another country in the world which produces a greater variety of woods, some of which are excellent in their kind^ considerable advantages are derived fj'om thence. Nothing so much contributed to the languish- ing state m which the trade of this colony was for some time retained, as the frequent alterations which took place in the medium of exchange. The company of the West Indies, to whom was conceded the domain of the French islands, was permitted to circulate there a small coin, w^hose number v/as not to exceed the value of a hundred thousand francs, and whose use in any other coun- try Avas prohibited. But. difRculties arising ii om the want of specie, the council published a decree, by which it was ordained, that this coin, and .ill other money which was in circulation in Fraice, should not only be used in the islands, but also in tlie provinces on the continent, on augm.entir^g' tl:ie "228 «ANA»A. Talue one-fourth. Tht: decree enjoined, that all notes of hand, accounts purchases, and pay- ments, should be made by every person without exception, at the rate of exchange thus settled- It had likewise a retrospective operation ; and stated, that all stipulations for contracts, notes, debts, rents, and leases, should be valued in money, ac- cording to that currency. This regulation tended, in its execution, to oc- isasion many difficulties. The intendant of Ca^ nada found at that period inexpressible embaiTass- ment, not only in the payment of the troops, but for all other expences of government in the colo- ny. The funds remitted for this purpose from France, arrived generally too late : and it was ne- cessary, on the first of January, to pay the officers and soldiers, and to satisfy other charges not less indispensable. To obviate the most urgent occa- sions, the intendant, with the concurreiice of the council, issued notes instead of money, observing always the proportional augmentation in the value of the coin. A proces verbal was accordingly framed : and by virtue of an ordinance of the Go- vernor-general and Intendant, there was stamped on each piece of this paper-money, which was a card, its value, the signature of the treasurer, an impression of the arms of France, and, on seal- ing-wax, those of the Governor and Intendant. They were afterwards imprinted in France, with the same impressions as the current money of the eANA»A. ^i) kingdom : and it was decreed, that before the arnvcn iu die colony, of vessels from France, a particular mark should be added, to prevent the introduction of counterfeits. This species of money did not long remain in circulation : and cards were again resorted to, on which new impressions were engraved. Those of the value of four livres and upwards, ^vere signed by the intendant, who was satisfied with distinguishing the others by a particular nrrk. Those which were six livres and upwards -he Governor- general formerly likewise signed. In the beginning of autumn all the cards w.re brought to the treasurer, who gave for their va- lue bills of exchange on the treasurer- general of the marine, or on his deputy at Rochefort, on ac- count of the expences of the ensuing year. Such cards as were spoiled, were not again used in circulation ; and were burnt agreeably to a proces verbal for that purpose. Whilst the bills of exchange continued to be faithfully paid, the cards were preferred to money. But when that punctuality was discontinued, they were no longer brought to the treasurer : and the intendant *- had much fruitless trouble in en- deavouring to recal those which he had issued. His successors, in order to defray the necessary expences of the government, were ob;ij:;cd to is» * M. de Champig'uy, in IfOS. u 2S() eANABA. sue new cards every year ; by which means they became so nuiitiplied, that their value was anni- hilated, and no person would receive them in payment. Commerce, by this injudicious sys- tem of finance, was entirely deranged : and the inconvenience rose to such a height^ that in 17l3 the inhabitants proposed to lose one-half, provid- ed the government would pay them the other in money. This proposal was in the following year agreed to : but the orders given in consequence were not carried into - compleat execution until four years afterwards. A declaration abolishing the paper money was then published : and the expences of the colony were again paid in cash. Trie augmentation of one-fourth was at the same time abolished, experience having suggested, that the increase of the value of money in a colo- ny is not an effectual means of retaining it there ; and that it cannot remain long in circulation, un- less the articles imported from the parent state be repaid in produce The commerce of the colony was, in 1706, car- ried on with a fund of six hundred and fifty thou- sand livres,-^ which for several years afterwards did not much augment. This sum, distributed among thirty thousand inhabitants, could not place them in affluent circumstances, nor afford them the means of purchasing the merchandise of France. The srreatcst rart of them "^'f^rc^ * 26,000/. sterling. CANADA. 231 therefore, aimoet in a state of nature ; particular- 1} they whose residence was in the remote settle- ments. Even the surpkis of their produce a-id stock they were unable to sell to the inhabitants of the towns ; because, in order to subsist, the ktter were necessitated to cultivate farms of their own. When the King withdrew Canada from the hands of the company of the Indies, he for some time expended on that province much larger por- tions of money than he did at any future peri( d : and the colony then remitted in beaver skins, to the value of a million of livres, a greater quantity than was afterwards exported. But articles w ere every year imported from France, amounting to a much greater value than could be paid r and the inhabitants acted like inconsiderate individu- als, whose expences far exceed their income. Thus fell the credit of the colony : and, in fall- ing, it occasioned the ruin of commerce, which, in i706, consisted only of fiirs of an inferior qua- lity. The merchants were, notwithstandingj emulous of purchasing them This circum- stance tended to accelerate their overthrow ; be- cause they frequently paid to the savages a higher price than these articles were sold for in France. When the French began their settlements in Canada, the country exhibited one vast ad un- bounded forest : and property was granted in ex- tensive lots, called Seigneuries, stretching tilong '252 CANArtA. either coast of the S.aiit Lav.-rence, for a distance of ninety miles below Quebec, and tiiirty niiies above Montreal, comprehending a space of three hundred miles in length. The seigneuries each contain from one hundred to five hundred square miles ; and are parceled out into small tracts, on a freehold lease to the inhabitants ; as the persons to vvhom they m ere grajited had not the means of cultivating them. These consisted of officers of the army, of geritie- mcn, and of communities, who were not in a st.:te to employ labourers and workmen. 7 he portion to each inhabitant was of three acres in breadth, and from seventy to eighty in depth, com- mencing on the banks of the river, and runniiig back into the woods, thus forming an entire and regular lot of land. To the proprietors of seigneuries some powers, as wtH as considerable profits, are attached. They are by their grants authorised to hold courts, and sit as judges in what is termed haute and basse justice^ which includes all crimes committed with- in their jurisdiction, treasons and murder except- ed. Few, however, exercised this privilege ex- cept the ecclesiastical seigneurs of Montreal, whose right of jurisdiction the king of France purchased from them, giving them in return his droit de change. Some of these seigneurs have a light .>i villain service from their tenants... At every transfer, or mutation of proprietor^ CANADA* ^o:y tile new purchaser is bound to pay a sum equal to a fifth part of the purchase money to the seig- neur, or to the king. But if this fine be paid imme- diately, only one-third of the fifth is demanded. This constituted a principal part of the king's re- venues in the province. When an estate fails by inheritance to a new possessor, he is by law ex- empted from the fine. The income of a seigneur is derived from the yearly rent of his lands, from lots et vents, or a fine on the disposal of property held under him, and from grist-mills, to whose profits he has an exclu- sive right. The rent paid by each tenant is in- considerable ; but they who have many inhabi- tants on their estates enjoy a tolerably handsome revenue, each person paying in money, grain, or other produce, from five to twelve livres per an- num. In the event of a sale of any of the lots of his seigneurie, a proprietor may claim a preference of re-purchasing it, which is seldom exercised, but with a view to prevent frauds in the disposal of the property. He may also, whenever he finds it necessary, cut down timber for the purpose of building mills, and making roads. Tythes of all the fisheries on his domain fikewise belong to him. Possessed of these advantages, seigneurs mi^ht in time attain to a state of comparative affluence, were their estates allowed to remain entire. But, by the practice of divisions among the differ* v2 2o4i CANADA. ent children of a famil), they become, in a few generations, reduced The most ample bhi^re, which retains the nam^e o^ seigneur ie^ is the por- tior- of the eldest son. The other partitions are denominatedy^^oA. These are, in the next ge«. neration, again subdivided: and thus, in the course of a few descents, a seigneur is possessed of litde more than his title. TJiis is the condition of m.ost of those estates that have passed to the third or fourth sreneration. The inhabitants in like manner make divisions of their .small tracts of land: and a house will sometimes belong to several proprietors. It is from these causes that they are in a great measure retained in a state of poverty ; that a barrier to industry and emulation is interposed ; and that a spirit of litigation is excited. There are in Canada upwards of an hundred seigr.euries, of which that at Montreal, belong- ing to the seminary of Saint Sulpicius, is the rich- est and most productive. The next in value and profit is the territory of the Jesuits. The mem- bers of that society who resided at Quebec were, like the priests of Montreal, only agents for the head of their community. But since the expul- sion of their order from France, and the seizure, by the catholic sovereigns of FAirope, of all tlie lands of that society within their dommions. ihe Je.^uits in Canada held their sei^rieurie in their '^wn right CANADA. 23§ Some of the domiciliatv d savages hold, also, in the province, lands in the right of seigiiturs Upon a representation of the narrow circuni- staiices to which many of the noblesse and gentie- men of the colony were reduced, not only by the causes already assigned, but by others equally powerful, Louis the Fourteenth was induced to permit persons of that description to carry on commerce by sea or land, without being subject- ed to any enquiry on this account, or to an impu- tation of their having derogated from their rank in society. To no seigneiirie is the right of patronage to the church attached. It was upon the advance- ment of the pretensions of some seigneurs, found- ed on their having built parochial churches, that the king, in 1685, pronounced in council, that ihi% right should belong to the bishop, he being the most capable of judging concerning the qualifica- tions of persons w ho were to serve, and tlie in- comes of the curacies also being paid from ihe tythes, which belonged to him alone. The right of patronage was, at tlie same time, declared not to be reputed an honour- The salaries allotted to the officers of the civil departments in the French colonial governments were extremely moderate, and inadequate to sup- port their respective situations. In 1758, that of the VLiiquis de Vaudreuii governor and lieutenant- genersii of Canada, amounted to no uiorc than '2'^6 CANADA. 272/. 15^. Sd. sterling ; out of which he was to clothe, maintain, and pay, a guard for himself, consisting of two serj cants and twenty five sol» diers, furnishing them with firing in winter, and with other necessary articles. The pay of the whole of the officers of justice and poUce was 5 1 41. 1 Is sterling : and the total sum appropriated for the pay of the established officers, composing the A^arious branches of the civil power, exceeded not 380W Ss. sterling. At the period when this arrangement of pay w^as settled, these sums might, perhaps, have been considered as sufficiently ample To increase the salaries of the various officers of a government, when an augmentation of the value of the articles of life, disproportionate to their means, shall ren- der it expedient, is a measure of ministerial poli- cy, upon the whole not unprofitable to a state, A partial adherence to ancient regulations, with a view of conceahng the public expenditure, is a system of economy founded in error. This has, ;in many instances, but particularly with regard ta the country of which we are speaking, been pro- ductive of a torrent ot general peculation, whose destructive course drew along with it embarrass- ments, which it required the strongest effiDrts of political wisdom to ren.edy and to overcome. The paper money in Canada amounted, in 1754, to so large a sum. that the government was compelled to remit to a future period the payment CAI^ADA. . 237 of it. Tlie quantity every day acquired an lu- cre ised accumulation : and this money fell at length into total disrepute. Merchandise rose in proportion as the medium of exchange became decried. The officers of government and the tr.)ops were the principal consumers : and the €vii of scarcity, and the discredit of the paper money, were chiefly derived from that cause la 1759 the minister \^'as obliged wholly to suspend payment of the bills of exchange, whose amount was enormous. Considerable sums were, at the €o iciusion of the war, due by the government of Fr.mce to the Canadians : and Great Britain, whose subjects they were become, obtained for thcrn an indemnity of 112,0001. in bonds, and of 24,0001. sterling in money. They therefore re- ceived in payment at the rate of fifty -five per cent* upon their bills of exchange, and thirty-four |;er cent, on account of their ordonnances or paper money. The derangement and defr.ult which we have stated, arose likewise in a great degree, from 'he mal-administration of finance, and from a total de- reliction of principle in those to whom that depart- ment was committed. From the foregoing facts it may easily be con- ceived, that when the English took possessiori of C i-!ada, they found its inhabitants to have made bur litrk pro?rrrss in commerce or in agriculture. The long continuance of warfare might have 238 "CANADA. tended to depress the former ; hut the latter had never attained to any stage of improvement. One article of commerce the Canadians had, by their own imprudence, rendered altogether un^ profitable. Ginseng was first discovered in the woods of Canada in 1718. It was from that coun- try exported to Canton, where its quality was pro- nounced to be equal to that of the ginseng pro- cured in Corea or in Tartary : and a pound of this pl;;»nt, which before sold in Quebec for twen- typence, became, when its value was once ascer^ tained, worth one pound and tenpence sterling. The export of this article alone is said to have amounted, in 1 752, to twenty thousand pounds sterling. But the Canadians, eager suddenly to enrich themselves, reaped this plant in May, when it should not have been gathered until September, and dried it in ovens, when its moisture should have been gradually evaporated in the shade. This fatal mistake arising from cupidity, and in some measure from ignorance, ruined the sale of their ginseng, among the only people upon earth who. are partial to its use ; and at an early period cut off from the colony a new branch of trade, which under proper regulations, might have been essei^tially productive. The imports of Canada, during seven years of its most flourishing trade, previous to the con- quest of the country, amounted annually to about 160.000/,, and sometimes to 240,000/. stening. CANADA. 239' The exports seldom exc^:;eded 80,000/. sterli^ig, and were irequeiitly less than that sui«. This deficiency was in a considerable degree supplied every year by theFi^nch government, which ex- pe ided large sums in bmiding ships and on the fortifications ; to which was added the payment of the troops, besides other disbursements. These, it has already been noticed, were settled by bills drawn on the treasury in France ; and, whilst they were punctually paid, sufficiently sup- plied ilie balance. The traders who emigrated thither from Great B itain found, for the first two or three years af- ter the reduction of the country, a considerable advantage in the great quantities of furs then in the colony, in bills drawn by those inhabitants who were determined to remain under the Bri- tish government, and who had money in France, in bills drawn on the paymaster- general of the forces, in London, for the subsistence of five or six regiments, and in what were termed Canada bills. But these resources became in a great de- gree exhausted : and commerce fell into a state of progressive languishment and decline. The inhabitants for upwards of a century had been accustomed to manufacture in their own la- milies, druggets, coarse liiiens, stockings, and worsted caps knitted with wires F;)r tiie men, a. id for themselves to wear during the suruiiier months, the women fabricated -hats and boiinets 240 «ANAi>A. of Straw. Few European articles were at that time required b}' this people, who observed in their modes of iivmg the most rigid frugality. The wool produced from the breed of sheep is, from the coldness of the climate, of a nature too coarse to enter into the composition of fine cloths. The lint, tobacco, and hemp raised b} the inhabitants, are principally desigiied for the use of their fami^ lies. Liitii the arrival in the colony of some far^ mers from Great Britain, they were but little ac- quainted with the science of agriculture. No so ncr were the fields become exhausted, than the inhar.il oUts betook themselves to clear, and to cultivate new lands. They were igr.orant of the application of manure, and of the ameliora- tion which its introduction can effect, in the p-ro- ductive quality of soils. Their natural aversion to industry, their propensity to ease, and their disposition to vanity, induced a great part of the colonists to raise a larger proportion of horses than oi cattle ; the labour of the latter being found in tillage equally useful with that of the former, the sources of provision were thus unnecessarily stinted. The quantity of produce exported in 1769 amounted in value to 63, 051 sterling; and was shipped in sevent} vessels belonging to Great Britah: and to her sul.jects in the difterent colonies in Norh America Rum, coffee, brt wn sugar, and molasses, were brougiit thidier from CANADA, -541 the West Indies. Spain, Italy, and Portugal, supplied brand}^ wines, oils, and sail, in return for grain. Cloths, linens, muslins, silks, house- hold furniture, teas, refined sugars, tools, glass, utensils, colours, hard and crockery- ware, \vere •supplied by England. Not more than twelve small vessels were at this period engaged in the fisheries on the river Suint Lawi'cnce : and about six were sent to the West Indies. The construction of vessels was for a long time laid aside. This might, in some de- gree, be attributed to the scarcity of artificers^ and to the high wages which were consequently demanded. In the course of two or three years after the period we have now mentioned, the debts due to the colony were paid ; and paper money entirely disappeared. The commerce of Canada remain^ cd long in a state of fluctuation, caused by the in- crease or decrease of demand in European coun- tries, for the productions which it supplied. It seems, however, in a course of ten years, to have considerably augniented, and the nuniber of ves- sels employed in 1775 was ninety-seven, contain- ing ten thousand eight hundred and forty one tons. At tl^e end of ten years more, the trade appears not to have been so extensive ; fifty-seven ships only having been then entered at the port of Quebec. But the lapse of another period of ten years had contributed, ivs a great degree, to en^ X ]arge it: and in 1795 not lev-, than abunrfred an(5 twenty -eight vessels, amounting to nuietct.} thou- sand, nine hundred and fifty-three tons, navigated by one thousand and sixty-seven men, arrived in the Saint Lawrence. This increase may be at- tributed to the scarcity of grain which at that pe- riod prevailed in Great Britain, and in most of the other countries of Europe. Three hundred and ninety-five thousand bushels of wheat, eighteen thousand barrels of flour, and twenty thousand cwts. of biscuit, were that year exported from Canada. The advanced prices which were then given for wheat and other grain, tended to enrich the inhabitants ; and had an influence in augmenting the value of all the articles of life. Many of the Canadians, even at a distance from the capital, be- gan, from that period, to lay aside their ancient costume, and to acquire a relish for the manulac- tures of Europe. This revolution in dress has not a little contributed to the encouragement of commerce. The construction of vessels at Quebec had be- gun, in the course of the foregoing year, to be carried on with spirit and success, by a company of London*merchants, who sent to Canada an a- ge )c for conducting that branch. Several build- ers have since established themselves there : and from the demand which, in consequence of the war, has prevailed for vessels, they have reaped considerable profits. CAN- A DA. 24S A lar^e exportation of grain took place in 1 799, and = Ue three following year^. The quantity in 1802 was one million and ten thousand bushels of wheat, thirty-eight thousand barrels of flour, and thirty-two thousand cwts. of biscuit. The num- bei- of vessels engaged in the export of these, and other productions of the colony, was two hundred and eleven. The quantity of tonnage was near thirty-six thousand : and the number of sailors was one thousand eight hundred and fifty. Tiie exports from Canada consist of wheat and other grain, flax-seed, beef and pork, butter and lard, soap and candles, grease and tallow, balsam, ale, porter, essence of spruce, salmon dry and pickled, flsh-oil, tin.ber, plank, boards, hemp, horses, cattle, sheep, pot and pearl-as^.^s, utensils of cast iron, furs of various descnpiionSj castoreum and ginseng. These articles amo'jirt d in value, in the year mentioi ed above, to live hundred and sixty-three thousand four hundred pounds sterling. The imports w^ere, wme of various kinds, rum. sugar, molasses, coiFee, tobacco, salt, coals, aiid different articles of the manufacture of Great Bri- tain. The colonial revenues in that year amounted to thirty-one thousand two hundred pounds ; and were derived from in posts, duties, lots et vents, and rents of property belonging to the king. The expenditures were forty-tiiree thousand two hun di'ed pounds* 244 CANADA. The forges of Three Rivers and BattiscaH noi only supply the colony with utensils and stoves of cast iron, but likewise afford a quantity of those articles for exportation. At the former of these manufactories, hammered iron of the best quality is made. The fur trade had, for a long period after the settlement of the English in Canada, been con= dueled by a variety of individuals: and the inter- ruption which it experienced, during the war be- nveen Great Britain and her colonies, cut oif for a time the profits which formerly flowed into the province from that source. At length, about the year 17S4, a gentleman^ of Montreal, whose mind was active and enter- prising, formed an association of several mer- chants of that place, for the purpose of pushing this branch of commerce to a greater extension than it had ever before acquired. The associates -stiied themselves the Company of the North-west, as it is from that quarter that the objects of their pursuit are principally derived, and for W'hich the vast and immeasurable tracts of territory, yet un- explored by Europeans, seemed to present a pro- ductive and inexhaustible field. Several indivi- duals, actuated by a spirit of adventure and disco- very, as well as by the hope of profit, traversed an immense tract of wilds, to the westward and towards the north. One gentleman,! upwards of * Mr, Mactavish. t ^^^ Alexander Mackenzie. CANAI5A, 245 twelve years ago, particularly distinguished him- self as the first who ever travelled across the con- tinent of America, in these high latitudes, to the shores of the Pacific (^cean ; an undertaking whose acco.npiis jment demanded the greatest stretch of resolution, prudence, firmness, and exertion. More than one attempt has since been made to perform the same journey, but without success. Although, previous to the year 1790, im nense quantities of furs were every year exnorted from Canada, yet the profits were not at that time by any means equal to those afterwards arising from this branch of commerce. A great proportion of peltry, particularly that of beaver, enters into the composition of some manufactures : but the price of furs is in a great measure influenced by fashion. By this standard, which constitutes the increase or decrease of demand, the market is principally regulated. The consumption of peltry for dress has, fortunately for the fur merchants, prevailed for many years past, and several have from this cause acquired independent fortunes. The company trading to the north-west sends every year, to the posts on Lake Superior, about fifty canoes loaded with raerchajidise. These le dispatched about the beginning of May, from La Chine, a distance of nine miles above Montreal, The canoes are formed of the bark of the birch- tree, and closely lined with thin ribs made of a tough wood. The seams are sewed with radical X 2 24& CANADA, fibres, called watape: and they are afterwards carefully covered over with gum to exclude the water. The bottom of the vessel is nearly flat, the sides are rounded, and cither end terminates in a sharp edge. The price of one of these is about twelve pounds sterling ; and it is calculated to contain, on the perilous voyage for which it is destined, a weight equal to that which follows : Sixty-fi\e pieces of merchandise of ninety pounds each ; eight men, each weighing at least one hun- dred and sixty pounds ; baggage allowed to these men, at forty pounds each, together with the weight of their provisions. The whole cargo of a canoe is, therefore, not less than eight thousand diree hundred and ninety pounds, exclusive of two oil cloths to cover the goods, a sail and an axe, a towing-line to drag the canoe up the rapids, a kettle, a sponge to bail out the water imbibed by leakage ; Vv ith gum, bark, watape, and uten- sils for repairing any injury which may be sus- tained on the voyage. The men are - engaged at Montreal four or five months before they set out on their journey ; and receive in advance their equipment, and one third of their wages- Each man holds in his hand a large paddle : and the canoe, although loaded within six inches of the gunwale, is made to move along with wonderful expedition. The voyageurs, or navigators, are of constitutions the strongest and most robust : and they are at an early period inured to the en- CANABA. 24? Counter of hardships. The fare on which they subsist is penurious and coarse.* Fortified by- habit against apprehension from the species of dif- ficulties and perils with which they are about to struggle, they enter on their toils with confidence and hope. Whilst moving along the surface of the stream, they sing in alternate strains the songs and music of their country, and cause the deso- late wilds on the banks of the Outaouais, to re- sound with the voice of cheerfulness They adapt their strokes in rowing to the cadence of their strains ; and redouble their efforts by mak- ing them in time. In dragging the canoes up the rapids, great care is necessary to prevent them from striking against rocks; the materials of which they are composed being slight and easily damaged. When a canoe receives an injury, the aperture is stopped with gum melted by the heat of a piece of burning charcoal. Fibres of bark bruised, and moistened with gum in a liquid state, are applied to larger apertures. A linen rag is put over the whole, and its edges are ce« mented with gum. The total number of men contained in the ca» noes, amounts usually to about three hundred and seventy-three, of which three hundred and fifty are navigators ; eighteen are guides ; and five are clerks. When arrivc-rl it ■^h<^ '-^^n^ r|e- * Chiefly the grease of the bear, and a meal, or coarss floiM^ 'Eaade from Indiani corn. 248 rn.ges, where waterfalls and cataracts oblige them to un- load, tiie men unite in aiding each other to con- vey the canoes and goods across the i md, by c;ir- rying the former upon the shoulders of six or eight men, and the latter upon the back. A package of merchandise forms a load for one man; and is sustained by a belt which he places over his forehead. They form iheir encampments at night upon islands, or upon the borders of the river. The murmuring sound of the streams, the wildncss of the situation, and remoteness from the habita- tion'^ of men, added to the nocturnal gloom, pow- criuily inVite the imagination to indulge itself in a train of melansholy reflections. On the north- east shore, about sixty miles higher up than the falls last described, is the site of an old French fort called Coulogiie ; and six miles farther is tbit of another, named Defon. At a distance of severity -t\v^o miies from the latter, is point ati Baptkeme, so deaomiaatedj, because the rude cc- -252 CANADA. remony is here performed of plunging into the waters of :he Outaouais, such persons as have Bever before travelled thus far. An ordeal from which exemption may be j^urchased, by the pay- ment of a fine. The land here rises into hills, whose summits are conical, presenting a scene rugged and romantic. The torments inflicted by legions of musquitos and flies, in journeying through these wildernes- ses, are intolerable to an European. But the har- dy Canadians seem to disregard them, or to be but little subject to their attacks. At certain times the men put their canoes on shore, in order to cook their food; or, to use their own expression, four fair la chaudiere. The channel of this river is in many situations interspersed with a multitude of islands, and its course is interrupted by a great variety of cata- racts and rapids. About a hundred and tv/enty miles from point au Bapthemc, the great brand; of ^.he Outaouais flowing h'om Lake Tamiscam- inc. , is passed by the traveller on his right, and the car;oes proceed upwards by the smaller branch; havii'g ascei.ded tliis about thirty-six miles, the fall oi Paresseux opens on the sight. Although nf >t exceeding a height of twenty-five feet, it forms an object not less interesting than pleasing. Mas- ses of stone rise above the summit of the fall, and di.^close them^selves part of the way down it's course. 1 he rough convexities, and the ravines CANADA. ^53 which liave been worn in tlie cliff, covered with boiling, restless clouds of foam, present a combi- nation of lustre, motion, and unremitting sound. Twenty-live miles from hence the voyagers walk along a carrying-place of eight hundred pa= ces, named portage premier musique ; pass up a small lake of nearly the same length ; and enter on a second portage mitsiqtie of t^^ elve hundred pa- ces. From thence to the height of lands, and to the source of the smaller branch of the Outaouais, the distance is thirty miles. On quitting this branch they proceed by a portage of twenty acres to the small and winding stream named Chaussec de Castor, some of whose sinuosities are avoided by a second and third portage of five hundred pa- ces each. They then enter Lake Nipissing, whose length is fifty miles, and whose discharge into Lake Huron, through a course of a hundred and eight miles, is called French river, on which there is one carry ing- place. After having thus encountered the toils of thirty- six portages, the voyagers navigate their canoes along the northern coast of Lake Huron ; and pursue their route to the cascades of Saint Mary, a description of which has already be^n given. In travelling to the north-west by the Outaouais river, the distance from Montreal to the upper /end of Lake Huron is nine hundred miles. I'he journey may be performed in a light canoe, in the space of about twelve days ; and in heavy canoe.s^ 254 CANADA. in less than three weeks ; which is astoni^ingly quick, when we reflect on the number of portages^ and powerful currents to be passed. About one-third of the men we have mention- ed, remain to winter in the remote territories, du- ring which the) are occupied in the chace : and for this service their wages and allovv ances are doubled. The other two-thirds ire engaged for one or two years ; and have attached to them about seven hundred Indian women and children, maintained at the expence oi the company. The chief occupation of the latter is to bcrape and clean the parchm.ents, and to make up and arrange the packages of peltry. The period of engagement for the clerks is five or seven years, during wliich the whole of the pay Oi each is no m.ore than one hundred pounds, together v. 1th clothing and board. V\ hen the term of indenture is expired, a clerk is either ad- mitted to a share in the company, or has a salary of from one hundred to three hundied pounds per aimum^ until an opportunity of a more ample provision presents itself. The guides, v. ho perform likewise the functions of interpreters, receive, besides a quantity of goods, a salary of about eighty five pounds per annum. The foremen and stcerbmen who v»inU-r, have about fifty pounds sterling : and they vvho are termed the middle men in the canoes, have SL'jiA\X. eighteen pounds sterling per awiufu^ Vvitii their clothing and maintenance. CANADA. 255 xhe number of people usually employed in the north-west trade, and in pay of the companyp amounts, exclusive of savages, to twelve hur]- dred and seventy or eighty men ; fifty of wliora are clerks; seventy- one interpreters and under clerks; eleven hundred and twenty are canoe- men ; and thirty. five are guides. The beaver skin is, among the savages, the me- dium of barter : and ten beaver- skins are eiven for a gun ; one for a pound of powder ; and one for two pounds of glass beads. Two martin skins are equal in value to one beaver skin , and twa beaver to one otter skin. ki56 CANADA.. CHAPTER X. Former state of colonial goveryiment — introduction of the criminal code of England — ^lebec Bill — new constitution — sketch of that system — division of Cu' nada into two Provinces — a'nd of these into counties — advantages of Canadian sett'ers'— state ef society^-' manners^— -character of the hah'^tants^ or Land-hold- ers — mode of clearing lands — acquisition cf proper- ty- — Seigneuries — produce of soils — agriculture — Upper Ca?iada — cold, and causes of its long domina- tio?i — travelling in ivinter — roads — houses, THE white inhabitants of Canada amountedj in 1758, to ninety. one thousand, exclusive of the regular troops, which were augmented or dimin- ished, as the circumstances and exigencies of the country might require. The domiciliated Indians who were collected into villages, in different situ- ations in the colony, were about sixteen thou- sand : and the number of Frenchmen and Cana= dians resident at Quebec was nearly eight thou- sand. Previous to the year 1660, the influence of law was altogether unkno\^ni in Canada. The autho» rity was entirely military : and the will of the go- vernor, or of his lieutenant, was submitted to without ever being questioned. The sole power of bestowing pardon, of inflicting punishment, of distributing rewards, of exacting fines, was vested CAKTADAo ' 2B7 in him alone. He could imprison without a sha- dow of delinquency, and cause to be revered as acts of justice all the irregularities of his caprice. In the year mentioned above, a tribunal, to de- cide definitively on all law-suits of the colonists, was established in the capital. The coutume de J^ariSf modified by local combinations, formed the code of these laws. During the first four years after Canada came into possession of the British, it was divided into three military governments. At Quebec, and at Three Rivers, officers of the army became judges in causes civil as well as criminal. These impor- tant functions were, at Montreal, committed to the better order of inhabitants. An equal want of legal information appears to have been the lot of all parties : and the commandant of the dis- trict, to whom an appeal from their sentences could be made, was no less defective in jurispru* dence. The coast of Labrador was, in 1 764, dismem- bered from Canada, and added to the government of Newfoundland : and Lake Champlain, with all the territory to the southward of the forty-fifth de- gree of north latitude was joined to the province of New York. The extensive regions to the north, and west of Michilimakinac, in Lake Huron, v/ere left with- out any jurisdiction. The territory firom the T 2 258 CANADA. mouth of the Saint Lawrence, as far as that islandj was placed under the authorit}' of one chief. The laws of the adnuralty of England were, at the same time, establbhed there : but these could only have a reference to the subjects of that coun- try, into whose hands the whole of the maritime commerce necessarily Howed. To this improve- ment, beneficial to the interests of the colony, another of yet greater importance was added. Tiiis was tlie criminal code of England. Before the introduction of this equitable mode of administering justice, a criminal, real or sup- posed, could be seized, thrown into coniinemxnt, and interrogated, without a knowledge of his crime or of bis accuser; without being able to call to his aid, or to the alleviation of his distress, tidier friends, relatives or counsel. He was compelled upon oath to declare the truth, or, in other words, to accuse himself, with- out any validity being attached to his solemn aiEr- mation. It was the province of the lav/yers or judges to embarrass him with captious questions, which could be more easily evaded, or more suc- cessfully answered, by effrontery and hardened villainy, than by innocence, involved and con- founded in a labyrinth of false accusation. The function of judge appeared to consist in the art of fmding out the greatest number of persons V, horn he might accuse. The witnesses who had nii.de depositions against the criminal were act CANADA. 259 introduced to his presence until the instant before judgment v/as pronounced, by which he was ei- ther acquitted or dehvered over to immediate pun- ishment. In the former case, the person innocent obtained no indemnity : and a sentence of capital punishment was followed by confiscation of pro- perty. Such is the abridgment of the French criminal law. The Canadians readily conceived, and felt, in a lively manner, the inestimable advantage of a system of jurisdiction too equitable to admit of any of the tyrannical modes of procedure which they had before been accustomed to witness or experience. These people viewed not, however, with an equal degree of satisfaction the introduction of the civil code of England. They were prompted by habit and prejudice to give a preference to the anient system under which their property had been protected. The magistrates, and other ad- ministrators of justice, found it, therefore, expe- dient to depart from the letter of the law, and to incline in their decisions, to the maxims which had before prevailed. By an act called the Quebec act, passed in the British legislature in 1775, Canada was extended to its ancient limits ; and its former system of civil law, the coutiime de Paris^ was restored. The criminal and maritime regulations of England were retained^ free exercise of the Roman catho- 260 CANADA. lie religion was allowed : and the profession of that fliith was declared to be no impediment to the rights of the subject, or to his holding any office under the colonial government. Ecclesiastical dimes, and fecdal obligations, resumed their va- lidity. A council formed by the sovereign might annul these arrangements, and exercise any power ex- cept that of imposing taxes. This body consisted of the heutenant-govemor, chief justice, secreta- ry of the province, and of twenty other members chosen indifferently from the two nations, and sub- ject only to an oath of fidelity. Each of these re- ceived a salary of an hundred pounds sterling a year. The expences of the civil government of the colony amounted, at that period, to twenty- five thousand pounds sterling a year, exclusive of the governor's salary. The amount of the colo- nial revenue exceeded, not nine thousand pounds sterling. This plan of vesting in the same individuals the executive and legislative powers was not, by any means, productive of satisfaction. The sub- jects who had emigrated thither from Great Bri- tain, and who had established themselves in the colony, were displeased to behold a portion of their most valuable privileges withdrawn from their reach : and the Canadians, who had begun to relish the advantages of a free government, and who were encouraged to look forward for the in» CANADA^ 261 troduction of the English constitution, viewed with concern a barrier interposed to the accom- pHshment of their expectations. The system was not contemplated with partiality, even on the part of the statesman by whom it was originally framed. But its temporary operation was considered as expedient, on account of the symptoms of discon- tent which had then appeared in several of the British provinces on the continent of North Ame- rica. The country continued to be governed in this mode until 1792. By an act of the thirty-first year of his present majesty's reign, the Quebec bin already mentioned, was repealed, and all the advantages of the British constitution extended to this part of the empire. Agreeably to this law, Quebec was divided into two separate pro- vinces, the one called Upper, the other Lower Canada. A legislative council and an assembly were at the same time constituted to each : and these bodies were empowered, with the assent of the governor, to pass such laws as should not be repugnant to the act to which they owed their poUtical existence. The legislative council of Up- per Canada consists of not fewer than seven members ; and that of Lower Canada of not few- er than fifteen, subject to be augmented according to the royal pleasure. The members must be na- tural born subjects, persons naturalized, or such persons as became subjects by the conquest and 262 CANADA. cession of the country. By a residence out of their respective provinces for a period of four en» tire successive years, without leave from his ma- jesty, or for the space of two continued years w ithout leave from the governor, or by taking an oath of allegiance to any foreign power, the seats of any members of the legislative council become vacated. These offices are otherwise held during life. The right of appointing or of removing the speaker of the legislative council is vested in the governor. His majesty reserves to himself the power of creating, whenever he may think it expedient, dignities or titles in these provinces, descendable to heirs male, vvho m.ay have the privilege of be- ing summoned, when of age, to a seat in the le- gislative council. But this, on account of cer- tain incapacities, may be suspended during life, and be resumed by the next lawful heir, on the death of the party who had been so deprived of his privilege. The governor, by the king's authority, is em- powered to call a house of assembly, whose mem- bers must be chosen for the counties or circles, by persons possessed of landed property of the clear yearly value of forty shillings sterling or up- wards. For the towns the representatives must be elected by voters whose property consists of a dwelling-house and lot of ground in the town, of the yearly value of five pounds sterling or up- CANADA. 26)3 wards, or who have been resident in the town for twelve months next before the date of the writ of summons, and shall have paid one year's rent for a dwelling or lodging, at the rate of at least ten pounds sterling per annum. The council and assembly must be convoked once in tvv^eive months: and each legislature con- tinues for a term of lour years and no longer, sub- ject, however, if necessary, to be dissolved previ- ous to the expiration of that period. The king in council may declare his disallow- >:ance of any provincial act within two } ears h om the time of its receipt in England : and all bills reserved for his majesty's pleasure, are to have no operation or validity until the royal assent be commuaicated to the colonial legislature. A court of civil jurisdiction, composed of the governor with the executive council, for the pur- pose of hearing and deciding on appeals from the courts of law, v/as, by the same act, established in both provinces. From hence a furthxr appeal may be made to the king in council. The lands in Upper Canada must be granted in free and common soccage : and those in the lower province must likewise be bestowed ac- cording to the- same mode of tenure, if required by the grantee. The go'x'ernor of either province, upon being so authorized by his majesty, may with the advice of his couacii, erect parsonages, and endov; them. 264 CANADA. He may also present incumbents, afl of whom must be subject to the ecclesiastical power of the protestant bishop The operation of this act of the British legisla- ture was, by proclamation of the lieutenant-go- vernor, declared to take effect in both provinces on the twenty- sixth day of December 1791 : and another proclamation was published on the se- venth of May in the following year, for the divi- sion of the province of Lower Canada into coun- ties, cities and boroughs. On the fourteenth of the same month writs were issued, returnable on the tenth of July. The names of the counties are j Caspe, Cornwallis, Devon, Hertford, Dorches- ter, Buckinghamshire, Richelieu, Bedford, Sur- rey, Kent, Huntingdon, York, Montreal, Effing- ham, Leinster, Warwick, Saint Maurice, Hamp- shire, Quebec county, Northumberland, Orleans, The cities, Quebec, upper and lower town, Montreal, eastward and v/estward divisions ; bo- roughs, William Henry or Sorel, and Three Ri- vers. An act was passed in 1 794 for the division of the province of Lower Canada into three districts, and for augmenting the number of judges ; in con- sequence of which, the courts of judicature at Quebec are now composed of a chief justice and three puisne judges ; those of Montreal of a chief justice and three puisne judges ; that of Three Ri- vers, of one judge ; and that of Gaspe, of one judge. • ANACA, 265 Eveiy person in Canada may liave within his power the means of acquiring a subsistence. The necessaries of hfe are, in general, there to be pro- cured at a cheaper rate than in most of the other parts of North America. The chmate, ahhough frequently incUning to extremes, both in cold and in heat, is nevertheless favourable to human health, and to the increase of population. The number of noblesse born in the province amounted, during the French government, to more than that of all the other colonies. This circumstance originated from several families there having been ennobled by the sovereign, and from several officers of the regiment of Carignan-Sa- lieres having remained in the colony after the re» duction of their corps. The population thus con- sisted, in a considerable proportion, of gentlemen who found themselves in situations by no means affluent. They became, therefore, necessitated to avail themselves of the privilege granted by Louis the Fourteenth to persons in their condi- tion ; and had recourse, for their support, to the occupation of retailers of merchandise. The right of the chace and of fishing is here extended to all persons. The taxes, chiefly de- rived from wine and spirituous liquors, can by no means be considered as burdensome. The inhabitants of Canada may be divided in- to four classes— those belonging to the church and to religious orders ; the noblesse or seigneurs s Z ^bO CANADA. the mercantile body ; and the land holders, stiled habit aiits. The Roman catholic clergy of the province are more distinguibhed by devotion, benevolence, inoffensive coiduct, and humility, than they are by learning or geiuus. They are regular and ri- gid in the praciice of tht ir religious ceremonies, and more devout, with perhaps less bigotry, th..n the ecclesiastics of any other country where the same religion prevails. The merchants are of two kinds, the importers and the retailers. The latter receive the mer- chandise on credit, and being settled in different parts of the province, give produce in return for their goods. In 17o3 an account was taken of the number of inhabitants in the province ; it was fecund to amount to one hundred and thirteen thousand of English and French ; exclusive of the loyalists who settled in the upper province, and ^^ ere in number about ten thousand. The population of Lov/er Canada may at present be admitted, by moderate computation, to be not less than two hundred and fifty thousarid persons ; and that of the upper province eighty thousand. The secular and regular priests in the country exceed not a hundred and eighty ; and the lium- ber of nuns of different orders ma} amount to two hundred and fifty. There are upv\ards of a hun- dred and twenty churches, and seven cou vents," CANADA. 267 The habitants^ or landholders, are honest, hos= pitable, religious, inoffensive, Ui .informed ; pos= sessing much simplicity, modesty, and civility. Indolent., attached to ancient prejudices, and limit- ing their exertions to an acquisition of the neces- saries of life, they neglect the convemences« Their propensity to a state of inaction, retains many of them in poverty. But as dieir wants are circumscribed, they are happy. Contentment of mind, and mildness of disposition, seem to be the leading features in their character. Their ad- dress to strangers is more polite and unembarras- sed than that of any other peasantry in the Vv'orld. Rusticity, either in manners or in language, is u iknown even to those who reside in situations the most remote from the towns. They have little inclination for novelty or improvement ; and exhibit no great portion of genius, wliich may perhaps be in some degree attributed to the want of education, of examples to pursue, and of oppor- tunities to excite emulation, or to unfold the la- tent qualities of the mind. Their constitution, at an early period of life, is healthy and robust : and they can with patience and resolution encounter great fatigues, when ne- cessity calls for exertion. Both men and women frequently live to an advanced period of life : but they soon look old ; and their strength is not of long duration. Many of the v^^omen are hand- some when young : but as they partake of the i^Gd CANADA. labours of the field, and expose themselves upon all occasions to the influence of the weather, the j soon become of a sallow hue, and of a niasculine form. Each family can, from its own resources, supply its wants. They manufacture their own linens and woollen stuffs ; tan the hides of their cattle ; make shoes and stockings ; are their own carpenters, masons, wheelers, and taylors. They are sufficiently intelligent with regard to objects which relate to tl.eir own interest; and are "sel- dom liable to be over- reached. They are, with some degree of justice, taxed with ingratitude. This may perhaps proceed from their natural levity, which incapacitates the mind from receiving a sufficient impression of ob- ligations bestowed. They are bad servants ; be- cause indolence and a spirit of independence make the yoke of subjection, however light, appear ;^ them burdensome and unpleasant.* They who are masters are, on the contrary, kind and indul- gent to their domestics. Accustomed to concern themselves only in their own affairs, they are not remarkable for constancy in friendship. On the commencement of winter, the habitants kill their hogs, cattle, and poultry, for their own consumption, and for sale at market. The pro- visions are kept m the garrets of the dwelling- houses, where they soon become frozen ; and are thus preserved until wanted for use. Vegetables are deposited in cellars^ or in excavations of the CANADA. 269 earth made for the purpose, beyond the influence of the cold. The whole of the Canadian inhabi- tants are remarkably fond of dancing ; and fre- quently amuse themselves at all seasons with that agreeable exercise. To clear lands in Lower Canada, they cut down the wood Vvdth a hatchet, heap it together, and burn it. The large roots are extirpated by dig- ging into the ground. The soil thus laid open be- comes covered with vegetation : and cattle arc sent to graze upon it. This mode is tedious and expensive ; and costs, including labour, a- bout thirty shillings sterling per acre. The Americans have introduced into the province a practice much more simple and economical, and attended with equal success. They cut down the trees ; burn them ; and sow between the trunks, after having turned up the earth with a harrow or hoe. A third method is by setting iire to the growing woods, and cutting around the bark of the larger trees, to prevent the sap from ascending : these dry up during the first year, and cease to re -produce their foliage. The farmer then sows his grain, and removes at leisure the trees that are dead. The cedar and spruce trees, whose roots are incorruptible, and long resist the ploughshare, it becomes necessary to eradicate before the land can be sown. An active and intelligent farmer will in the end find it more advantageous to take uncleared land, z 2 270 V CANADA.^ or that which is half cleared, than to purchase such as has been long in cultivation. The latter is subject to have been exhausted by the bad mode of farming practised in the country. The fields are generally laid out with little taste : and it is certainly more agreeable for him to arrange, after his own plan, his house, his offices, his fields, and his avenues. In Lower Canada, acquisition of property of two kinds may be made ; the one in the depen- dence on a seigneur ; the other from government, in free and common soccage. Lands of the last description are divided into townships^ and each township into lots of two hundred acres each, re- ceding in depth from the front line. When a per- son obtains twelve hundied acres, he pays half the expence of the survey, and his proportion of fees : and two- sevenths of the land are reserved for the disposal of government. The borders of the great river, and those of most of the rivers which disembogue themselves into it, are occupied by seigneuries^ under the regulation of the French laws* The lands at the disposal of government, part of which are con- ceded, lie retired in the depths, between the ri- vers Chaudiere, Saint Francis, Yamaska, and Chambly, extending to the forty-fifth parallel^ and are subject to English rights. The usual conditions adopted in letting farms are, that the proprietor should furnish the cattle. CANADA. 271 and incur the expence of clearing, of making new ditches and fences, and of supplying utensils of husbandry. The produce of every descrip- tion is afterwards equally divided between him and the farmer. The public charges are, a con- tribution of labour, or of money, for the repair of roacjs and bridges, and the payment of the eccle- siastical dime, at a twenty-sixth part on wheat, oats, barley, rye, and pease. The average produce of the soils in Lower Ca- nada may be estimated at fifteen to one for oats ; twelve for barley ; six for pease ; and eleven for summer wheat. The Canadian farmer general- ly allows after wheat, a natural layer, which is pastured on by cattle ; and consists of small white clover and grass. This mode is highly unecono- mical for breeding of these animals. In the fol- lowing autumn the land is ploughed, and in the spring sown w^ith wheat or oats. The twentieth of April is the usual time at which the sowing commences in Lower Canada ; and the whole of the seed is usually in the ground before the fifteenth of May. The season for be- ginning the harvest is early in Augusts The Canadians have, for several years past, a- dopted the practice of British husbandmen, by in- troducing manure into their lands, and they are now convinced of the utility and profit attending that mode of culture. A considerable proportion of the lands in Law- 272 CANABA. er Canada is of a light soil : and it is an opinion generally received, that these are soon exhausted. The rains, which fi\ll heavily upon a mountainous country, will more readily carry away a sandy than a clayey soil, the particles of which adhere more strongly to each other. A soil may become impoverished by the loss of those earthy particles into u hich the plants which grow upon it are at length reduced, and of which it is deprived when they are not allowed to decay upon the spot where they have been reared. Plants do not take away any sensible weight from the soil : and it is the moisture with which the earth is watered that is the sole cause of vegetation. The soil, it ap- pears, is nothing more than a matrix in which the germina of plants receive their growth, and which they seem only to derive from heat and moisture. Water alone may contain all the salts, and all the principles that are to concur in producing this growth. A light soil is tilled by the most trifling labour; and is easily penetrated by rains. But a heavy rain will press it together, and thereby prevent it from imbibing moisture to any consi= derable depth. In this state, if wet weather be soon succeeded by sunshine, the humidity is eva- porated : and it is deprived of the nourishment which it should have otherwise supplied to its vegetables. Prejudice then determined the soil to be exhausted and ruined. It was abandoned, when nothing;^ more was wanting, to j*eward with. CANADA,. 273^ ample returns the proprietor by whom it was ne- glected, than the appUcation of a proper mode of agriculture. A somewhat less degree of friability constitutes what is termed a strong soil, which requires till- age of a more laborious nature. But this species of land, when once prepared, manured, and water- ed, preserves for a much longer time its mois- ture, which is a necessary vehicle of the salts, whe- ther they be conveyed and successively renewed by rains or by artificial watering. Manure sepa- rates the soil, and raises it for a time, either by its active particles, which, in compact soils, can only unfold themselves by degrees, or by its oily par- ticles, which fattening land of the former species render it capable of retaining, for a longer time, the moisture, which its too great laxity, and the incoherence of its particles would otherwise soon allow to escape. Manure, therefore, properly applied, supplies in a certain degree, and according to its quality , the deficiency of tillage. But no expedient can be an equivalent for rain. In America there is no rainy season which is not fruitful ; whilst, in a dry season, the income diminishes sometimes one-half. From the position of the settled part of Upper Canada, the climate is comparatively mild in win- ter, which is there but of short duration, and frc« quently without much frost. It sometimes ii> 274 Canada. deed happens, that in the course of that season there is h.ardly any snow. Neither Lake Onta- rio, Lake Erie, Lake Huron, or Lake Michigan, are subject to be frozen at any great distance from their coasts. But Lake Superior, from its north- erly situation, is usually covered by a solid body of ice, for an extent of seventy miles from land. To attribute the predominance of cold in Cana- da to the multiplicity and extent of its rivers and lakes, appears to be an hypothesis not altoge- ther correct. The humidity ci the earth, and the abundance of water every .where diffused through- out its surface, contribute, doubtless, in the summer months, to produce a coolness, by the evaporation which then takes place, in conse- quence of the dry and warm state of the atmo- sphere. But, in winter, w hen the degree of cold has once attained the freezing point, it can re- ceive no augmentation from water ; that element, considerably warmer than the part of the atmo- sphere to Vi^nich it is contiguous, continues to emit warmth until its surface becomes congealed. The energy of heat, and that of cohesive at- traction, acting in constant opposition to each other, enter intimately into every operation, by which changes are produced in the properties of substances. These mutations of capacities seem essentially requisite to the preservation of a more equal temperature, than otherwise might take place in the elements, of which our bodiej^ tANA'BA. 2/5 form a part, and by which we lire environed. The evaporation from water mitigates the solsti- tial warmth : and the quantity of heat which es- capes previous to the congeiation of that b(3dy, restrains the domination of frost ironi attair iig that degiee of exacerbation, at which ii might otherwise arrive. Were the power of cold capable of per\^3ding with a velocity equal to that of light, every p^rt of an immense body in a liquid sti.te, the consoli- dation not progressive, and in a great measure superncial, would take immediate effect, when- ever the whole could be brought to the tempera- ture of thirty-two degrees of Fahrenheit's ther- mom.eter. The thawing of mountains of ice and and snow, were heat to act in the same manner, would with equal rapidity take place. The long continuation of frost and snovvs, which for a period of near six months in the 3'ear prevail in Lower Canada, may be attributed to the immense and desert regions which stretch towards the north. The snow seldom fails in any quantity in that province, unless when the wirid blows from the north-east, which is the quarter of the mountains of ice. In passing over the unfrozen pirts of the sea, the current of cold air drives before it the vapours emitted from thence, which become immediately converted in- to siiow. Whilst the wind continues in that di- rection, uiid wiuist the snows are falling, the de- 27B CANAftA. gree of cold is diminished ; but no sooner do^s it change its position to the north-west, than the cold is considerably augmented. 1 he evaporation of the snows contributes much to render so keen the winds of the west, and north-west, which, previous to their arrival in Lower Canada, tra- verse immense countries, and a prodigious chain of mountains enveloped in thai fleecy covering. The elevation of the earth is not the least im- portant cause of the subtilty of the air, and of the severity of cold in this part of America ; as the regions to the northward probably extend te the pole. The winds in Lower Canada general- ly proceed from the north-west, or north-east. When blowing from the former quarter, they pass over a long tract of territory : and the sur- face of the earth within the limits of their course, becomes deprived of a portion of its heat to miti- gate the air. But on continuing to blow in the same direction, they will sweep over a surface already cooled, and will thence receive no abate- ment of their severity. Advancing in this man- ner, they produce in their course the intenseness of frost. When the winds pass over large collec- tions of water, the surface becomes cool, and the air proportionably mitigated. The colder water, more weighty than that beneath, descends. Its place is supplied by that which is warmer : and a continued revolution thus takes place, until tlip Canada.' 27? Mifface becorses solid, and the further develope-^ Blent of warmth is restrained* The vast and immeasurable forests which over- spread the face of Canada, essentially contribute to the domination of cold. The leaves and branch- es of the trees are thickly intervi^oven with each other : and the surface of the ground, particular* ly in the northern parts, is covered by shrubs, brambles, and the more rank productions of ve» getation. Into these gloomy recesses the rays of the sun can with difficulty penetrate, and can vi- sit them but during a transient portion of the long summer's day. The earth overshadowed during the prevalence of heat, and covered by snow in winter, can emit but a small degree of warmth to temper the piercing winds : and the leaves of the trees which are exposed to the sun, possess not a Sufficient quantity of matter to imbibe, or to re- fain the effect of his rays. The winds, in passing over these forests, can therefore undergo but lit- tie alteration in their temperature. 1 he snows are there retained in the spring, to a much later pe- riod than on the cleared grounds, and tend to the prolongation of cold. The clearing and cultivation of lands have much contributed to the amelioration of the climate of Canada : and the number of fires kept up in the habitations in different parts of the country, may Ekewise have a share in producing this change, A A 278 CANADA^ Certain however it is, that the winters in those parts of Lower Canada, in the vicniity of Que- bec, have remitted several degrees of their former severity. An intelligent priest in the island of Orleans, kept for half a century,, a correct meteor- ological table: and his successor continued it for eight years longer. The result of their obser- vations tended to prove, that the medium of cold in winter had diminished eight degrees withia that period. The mercury in the thermometer sometimes descends in winter to the thirty-sixth degree be- low zero in Fahrenheit's scale. But the atmo- sphere rarely continues long in that dry and in- tense state. The river Saint Lawrence is seldom frozen so fer down its course as Quebec, although immense bodies of ice crowding upon each other, continue to float up and down with the tides. The win- ter of 11 9 \) was the last in which what is called the Pont was formed, and when carriages passed across the ice from Quebec to Point Levi. The ice in these regions is of a much harder nature than that of climates less subject to the influence of severe frost. It contains more air and its con- texture is much stronger, from the great degree of cold by which it is congealed. Being sudden- ly formed, it is less transparent, as well as harder, than that which is more tardy in its formation* CAJ^ADA. 279 Although the congelation of water be rapid in its process, a considerable time is required for its so- lution when congealed. If ice, formed in the space of six minutes, be placed in such air as has acquired the temperature of forty-five degrees of Fahrenheit, it will be some hours in resuming its fluidity. In weather perfectly calm, water will frequently acquire a degree of cold beyond what is sufficient for its congelation, without any change in its liquid state. But if a breeze ruffle its surface, it becomes immediately solid. The ice on the rivers in Canada, acquires a thickness of two feet and upwards ; and is capa- ble of supporting any degree of weight. That on the borders of the Saint Lawrence, called the iordage, sometimes exceeds six feet. The ice on the centre of the stream, where it is frozen over, is the thinnest part, occasioned probably by the convexity of the river. In great bodies of water which run with rapidity, the centre is higher frequently by some feet than the sur- face towards either of the shores. Horses and carriages are driven with great ra- pidity along the ice : and an accident seldom hap- pens, except sometimes towards the spring, when it becomes rotten and insecure. The accumulation of snow in the woods, where it is not subject to be drifted by the winds, is u- suaiiy six or seven feet in depth about the end of 26G CAJSTABAo Februan^, Mheu it has attained its greatest quan- tity. The iniiaence of the sun, after that period, gradually consumes it, although fresh supplies continue at intervals to fall, sometimes for six weeks after that period. The relative proportion of the snow to water, may be ascertained by means of a long cylinder closed at one end, and immer- sed until it reach the surface of the ground. It will thus contain a column of snow equal to the depth that has fallen ; and on its being dissolved, will shew the quantity of water to which it is equal. The mode of travelling in winter is no less ra- pid than convenient. A vehicle, called a cartole^ is drawn by one or two horses, which are harness- ed in the same manner as for any other carriage. The body of the more fashionable kind is like that of a curricle, and is fixed upon a sleigh shod Vvdth iron. It has an apron of bear-skin or leather : and within it is placed a bulililo-skin, called a robe, with which the legs and feet are kept warm. A person may thus travel, or drive about for his pleasure, vrithout much inconvenience from cold, particularly if he employ a servant to drive the horses. In bad weather, sleighs with tops or co- vers made of leather, are in use. When the roads are level and good, the draft of one of those car^ riages is very little fatiguing for a horse ; as a small degree of impulse is then required to retain it in rapid motion. CANADA. 281 After a heavy fliU of snow, the loaded sleighs t^hich pass along in the vicinity of the towns, al- ternately take up in their front, and deposit a quantity of snow, and thus form in the roads fur- rows and ridsj^es in a transverse position, which are called cahofs. Until these are filled up, tra% veiling becomes fatiguing and unpleasant. There is scarcely a habitant in Lower Canada who possesses not one or two sleighs : and much time is consumed during the winter season in driving from one place to another. The horses are of the Norman breed, and are rather small, but stout, hardy, fleet and well calculated for draft. >fotwithstanding the little care that is bestowed on them, and the ill treatment which many of them experience, they in general possess their strength to a great age* The houses are kept warm in winter by means of cast metal-stoves, in which wood is burnt, and which, through pipes formed of sheet-iron, com- municate an equable portion of heat to every part of a chamber. By this mode, and by the precau- tions which are taken on the part of the inhabi- tants, in wearing suitable clothing when they ex- pose themselves to the air, the severity of the cli- mate is but little felt or regarded. The dry cold, by contracting the pores of the skin, seems in some degree to present a reme-» dy for its own intenseuessj and to counteract those 282 CANAPA, impressions, of which the human frame would oihcrwise become more susceptible, and be per- haps unequal to sustain. I'he French language, which is that of ^e in- habitants of Lower Canada, is spoken without any provincial accent. The proceedings of the legislature, and also those of the courts of law^ are both in the English and French tongues* Alexander & Phillips, Pnnfrs, Carlisle I MM LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 017 373 012 3