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EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
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EUROPEAN TRAVEL 
 FOR WOMEN 
 
 NOTES AND SUGGESTIONS 
 
 BY / 
 
 MARY CADWALADER JONES 
 
 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., Ltd. 
 1900 
 
 All rights reserved 
 
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 JUN 19 1900 
 
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 JUN 29 1900 
 
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 Copyright, 1900, 
 By the MACMILLAN COMPANY. 
 
 
 Nortoaoti T^xtzz 
 
 3. S. Gushing & Co. — Berwick & Smith 
 Norwood Mass. U.S.A. 
 
TO 
 
 MY TWO COMPANIONS 
 
 ON MANY PLEASANT JOURNEYS 
 
PREFACE 
 
 In looking through the various guide-books 
 of all kinds which accumulate in the course of 
 travel, it occurred to me that there was none 
 intended especially for the use of women, to 
 suggest what they had better take with them 
 in going abroad for the first time, and to tell 
 them how they can get about most comfortably 
 after landing. 
 
 Year by year an increasing number of women 
 travel in Europe, often in parties which do not 
 include a man, and there is no reason why they 
 should not, as the pleasure and profit to be 
 gained are far more than worth the trouble 
 which must be taken, while that is less in many 
 ways than in this country, because in the places 
 which most people wish to visit everything has 
 long been organized with reference to the con- 
 venience of tourists. 
 
 Crossing the ocean, however, differs from an 
 
 ordinary journey, and, after one has landed, 
 vii 
 
vill PREFACE 
 
 whether in England or on the Continent, every- 
 thing at first seems unfamiliar. The rules as 
 to the registration of luggage, the system of 
 hotel management, and the fees or tips which 
 must be constantly given, are only a few in- 
 stances of the wide differences which exist 
 between the conditions of travel here and in 
 Europe, while there are many little comforts 
 of which one appreciates the value through 
 having forgotten to bring them. 
 
 Most of us have to learn by the slow and 
 laborious process of asking questions, taking 
 advice, and, above all, by making mistakes ; but 
 it is at least possible to offer the result of one's 
 personal experience, and that of other women, 
 which is what I have tried to do in the fol- 
 lowing pages. 
 
 At the end of the book I have given a com- 
 parative table of the different thermometers 
 used in Europe, a few of the metric measures 
 and weights, with our equivalents for them, a 
 number of words which are used in a different 
 sense here and in England, as well as French 
 terms which are often wrongly translated, and 
 some simple phrases in French, Italian, and 
 
PREFACE IX 
 
 German. There is also a list of guide-books, 
 and of some works of history or fiction relating 
 to certain places; this does not claim to be 
 complete, but may be of interest. 
 
 If my work has any value, the credit is in a 
 great part due to the friends who have helped 
 me with their criticism and counsel, and to 
 them I offer here my heartiest thanks. 
 
 MARY CADWALADER JONES. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAOB 
 
 Introduction 1 
 
 Preparations for the Journey . . . . 21 
 
 GuiDE-BooKS, Dictionaries, and Novels . . 60 
 
 About Bicycles 67 
 
 Crossing the Ocean 73 
 
 England 84 
 
 France 129 
 
 Germany 174 
 
 Italy 190 
 
 Some Terms used differently in America and in 
 
 England 249 
 
 French Words sosietimes Mistranslated . . 253 
 Comparison of Reaumur, Fahrenheit, and Centi- 
 grade Thermometers ...... 256 
 
 Measures 257 
 
 Foreign Pronunciation 258 
 
 Some Useful Phrases 260 
 
 A Few Verbs 290 
 
 xi 
 
EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR 
 WOMEN 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 Even at the risk of seeming ungracious, which 
 I certainly do not intend, I must begin by say- 
 ing that unless travellers are willing to leave 
 national prejudices behind them, and ready to 
 see whatever is characteristic and excellent in 
 a foreign country, without finding fault because 
 it is unfamiliar, they had better remain at home. 
 Americans are among the worst offenders in 
 this regard; and there is no greater nuisance 
 than the man who growls because he cannot get 
 buckwheat cakes, or the woman who fusses 
 when she has to do without iced-water. If 
 people carry fixed habits from place to place, as 
 the tortoise does its shell, they will be wise to 
 arrange their journeys so as to permit of their 
 remaining in countries where they may be com- 
 fortable without too much effort. For instance, 
 when they are absolutely dependent upon a 
 
 B 1 
 
Z EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 substantial breakfast, they should not go further 
 than the United Kingdom, or, at any rate, not 
 beyond a few of the large Continental cities, 
 where there are hotels adapted for crowds of 
 English and Americans ; in the more out-of- 
 the-way places in France, Italy, or Germany, a 
 request for meat with the first meal would cause 
 as much surprise as if one ordered plum-pudding, 
 although the peasants often begin their day 
 with a bowl of soup. 
 
 Remember, when you go to a strange country, 
 that its inhabitants have not sent for you ; you 
 go among them, presumably, of your own accord, 
 and their manners and customs cannot possibly 
 seem stranger to you than yours do to them. 
 It is scarcely worth while to go to Europe for 
 the purpose of proclaiming all the time that 
 America is in every way better ; if that is your 
 opinion you may show it by going home, and 
 never leaving it again, but while you are abroad 
 try to get all the pleasure and profit possible out 
 of the visit. Differences of usage often seem 
 much greater than they really are ; what strikes 
 you as wrong or uncommon is, in reality, for 
 that particular place, correct and normal; there- 
 fore you should try to compel yourself to look 
 at things, in so far as you can, from the point of 
 
INTRODUCTION 3 
 
 view of the average citizen of the place where 
 you may happen to be. 
 
 Travelling for women who have no man to 
 look after them is easier and more convenient 
 in Europe than it is here. In the smallest 
 railway stations, for instance, there are always 
 porters, or at least idle men and boys, ready to 
 take your hand luggage; and the whole ma- 
 chinery of hotel-keeping and transportation is 
 carried into greater detail than with us. Then, 
 too, the custom of giving tips or gratuities has 
 a wonderfully softening effect upon the manners 
 of those who hope to receive them, and even 
 when there can be no question of such reward, 
 it has been my experience that people are al- 
 most uniformly willing and anxious to save one 
 trouble and to help one in every way. 
 
 It is a great mistake to take children to 
 Europe unless you mean to settle down some- 
 where, as if you move about much they are a 
 nuisance to your fellow-travellers, and if they 
 are made to go to museums and galleries while 
 too young to appreciate what is in them, they 
 will probably loathe that form of education for 
 the rest of their lives, as many of us hate some 
 of the masterpieces of literature from having 
 been made to drudge over them at school. 
 
4 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 The average sightseer, especially at first, is 
 almost sure to attempt too much. At a certain 
 state of fatigue, enjoyment ceases at the time, 
 and memory will not serve you afterward, so 
 that you will be forced to say, like poor Cassio, 
 " I remember a mass of things, but nothing dis- 
 tinctly." Most people go abroad with the ex- 
 pectation of gaining strength by their trip, but 
 many of them return home fairly tired out by 
 rushing through beautiful scenery and places 
 as if their whole preoccupation had been to get 
 to the end of them in the shortest possible 
 time. 
 
 There are two sensible ways of planning a 
 first visit to Europe. One is, to travel quickly 
 over much ground, and go to many places, but 
 not to wear yourself out by attempting to see 
 any of them thoroughly. This is a very ex- 
 pensive method, and only the most striking 
 things impress themselves upon the mind, but 
 still there is an impression, as well as a sense of 
 the contrasts between different countries, and 
 in case it is unlikely that you will ever go 
 abroad again, your mental horizon has been 
 widened for the rest of your life. 
 
 The second way is to see some country, or 
 part of it, as thoroughly as you possibly can, 
 
INTRODUCTION 5 
 
 and this is of course much more satisfactory if 
 you can give the time to it. A summer in 
 England or a winter in Italy, while giving a 
 very fair idea of what those countries are like, 
 will probably make you long to know them 
 still better, and to study after you have come 
 home in the hope of going back there some day 
 with a more intelligent curiosity than you could 
 have had at first. 
 
 If you are thinking of travelling in summer, 
 and say to your friends that you intend to see 
 something of southern France and Italy, as well 
 as of Great Britain, they will assure you that you 
 will suffer dreadfully from the heat, and will 
 probably die of sunstroke or of some terrible 
 local fever. The reason for this widespread 
 belief is that the original guide-books for use 
 on the Continent were written by and for 
 Englishmen, who are usually uncomfortable if 
 the thermometer goes over seventy degrees 
 Fahrenheit. 
 
 The German and French guide-books have 
 copied them in regard to countries not their 
 own, but, as a matter of fact, any healthy Amer- 
 ican who can stand one of our summers will 
 find nothing to dread short of the real tropics. 
 Rome in July or August is not nearly so hot as 
 
6 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Washington, and as for the mosquitoes which are 
 said to make Venice intolerable in September, 
 any one of their able-bodied American cousins 
 can do more execution than a dozen of them. 
 We naturally associate the idea of heat with 
 the south, but many cities of southern Europe 
 are cooler than others farther north. Naples, 
 for instance, is never as hot as Florence, 
 because, like New York, it has the sea breeze 
 at night. This even holds good as to Palermo, 
 which is cool compared with Milan. The cli- 
 mate of Central and Southern Europe is, how- 
 ever, more relaxing than ours, and the heat often 
 holds steadily day after day, which is fatiguing. 
 If people tried as hard to catch typhoid and 
 malarial fevers at home as they do abroad, they 
 would certainly succeed quite as well, and yet 
 they persist in laying the blame upon a foreign 
 climate. Nobody here would dream, after a 
 brisk walk in a sunny street, of poking about 
 for half an hour in a mouldy cellar without an 
 extra wrap ; but put the cellar in Italy and 
 call it the crypt of a church, and the proceed- 
 ing is apparently considered reasonable. In the 
 same way, while travellers admire the pictu- 
 resque sights of a mediseval town, they turn 
 up their noses at its evil smells, and yet con- 
 
INTRODUCTION 7 
 
 fidingly drink water from some unknown well 
 or spring, which is probably mediaeval also, and 
 then wonder that one of the party developes a 
 fever which could have been taken with less 
 trouble from the nearest polluted pump at 
 home. If you will only abide strictly by three 
 rules you may go anywhere in Europe during 
 the summer months with perfect impunity, 
 except, of course, to certain places which the 
 natives acknowledge to be unhealthy at some 
 seasons, and even then, with ordinary precau- 
 tions, you may be as safe as in malarious dis- 
 tricts here. These are the simple precepts : — 
 
 Don't get overheated and then chilled. 
 
 Don't go too long without eating. 
 
 Don't drink water unless you are sure it is 
 good. 
 
 The journey once decided upon, all the leis- 
 ure you can get beforehand will not be too 
 much for preparation, as it is always more 
 satisfactory to follow a definite plan, unless 
 one has indefinite time. It is also advisable 
 to read up on what you particularly wish to 
 see, as otherwise you are sure to find afterward 
 that something very important has been over- 
 looked, when the sea again stretches inexorably 
 between you and that particular cathedral or 
 
8 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 picture gallery. It adds greatly to the pleasure 
 of travel to have a distinct interest in archi- 
 tecture, painting, sculpture, or some other of 
 the arts, as it is impossible to be equally well 
 informed about them all, and if you do not make 
 some choice you will either try to study too 
 much, or may give up attempting to learn any- 
 thing. When two or three people mean to be 
 travelling companions, it is always better, for 
 obvious reasons, that they should have somewhat 
 different gifts and somewhat similar tastes. 
 An ideal association is where one is competent 
 to make travelling plans and grapple with the 
 problems of time-tables, another is willing to 
 keep the purse, and do the actual travelling 
 work, such as telegraphing ahead for rooms 
 and attending to the luggage, while a third 
 finds out what is best worth seeing wherever 
 they may mutually decide to go. 
 
 If any country except Great Britain is to be 
 visited, it will add much to your pleasure if 
 one of the party is able to speak its language 
 at least tolerably. It is true that many people 
 travel all over the Continent without knowing 
 a word of any tongue save their own, but this 
 may be compared to looking at a sunny land- 
 scape through blue glasses — the outline is 
 
INTBODUCTION 9 
 
 there without the characteristic colour. Even 
 a few words of French or German or Italian 
 are better than none at all, and one young 
 woman declared that she got along quite com- 
 fortably in Italy by being able to say "How 
 much? " '' Too much! " and " What is the name 
 of that church? " 
 
 A course of lessons at one of the schools of 
 language which are now so common will give 
 an idea of the sound of a foreign tongue, and 
 after that the best teachers are attention, a dic- 
 tionary and phrase-book, and a good temper. 
 Grammar is not of much use unless one has 
 time to study seriously, and, after all, the best 
 way is to ask questions on the spot and try to 
 remember the answers. Nobody need have the 
 least shyness about speaking a foreign language 
 with a bad accent, because, to a native of the 
 country, the difference between the degrees of 
 accent does not really matter ; it is a little 
 more or a little less, but always there to him. 
 We have only to think how very rarely in our 
 own experience we have heard any one who did 
 not learn English until he was grown up, and 
 yet who spoke it without any accent at all, to 
 have less hesitation about inflicting our effort,; 
 upon others. 
 
10 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Americanisms in speech are usually bits of 
 local dialect, or old-fashioned English words, 
 as the French now spoken by the " habitants " 
 in Canada is practically that of the time of 
 Louis XIV. In England the language has 
 gradually changed, while we have kept to the 
 older form ; but in the matter of railways there 
 is a separate nomenclature, different from ours 
 in almost every particular. Each country has 
 a perfect right to use words as her people 
 prefer, but it is better, during your stay in 
 England, to adopt the expressions usual there, 
 without affectation, just as it is well to drop 
 them, if they are not natural to you, when you 
 go home. 
 
 The custom of giving tips is one which often 
 seems to come very hard to Americans, although 
 it is now pretty well established in this country. 
 Like all other European customs, it has a reason, 
 and it may be worth while to look at it reason- 
 ably. In former times people who had large 
 establishments supported a number of servants 
 of all kinds, whom they fed, housed, and clothed, 
 but who received very little money, for the 
 masters had not much themselves. Travellers 
 of any distinction were always welcomed at 
 these great houses or convents, and when they 
 
INTRODUCTION 11 
 
 went away they naturally left a gift of money 
 behind to be distributed among those who had 
 served them. 
 
 In Europe waiters, as well as other hotel ser- 
 vants, often pay their employer a certain sum 
 daily for the privilege of working for him, 
 instead of receiving any wages, being expected 
 to make their own living out of their tips, or 
 "pourboires." On general principles, you are 
 expected to give about ten per cent of a hotel 
 bill in tips, but if you stay a long time in one 
 place it is less. For this reason, sleeping at 
 a different place every night is very expensive. 
 You can scarcely get away and into the train 
 again next morning for less than five shillhigs 
 or five francs in tips, however small your bill 
 may be, but if you stay for ten days the fees 
 will not mount up in the same proportion. 
 
 It might be possible to get about the world 
 without tipping, and I have heard of people 
 who have done so ; but, after all, it is a ques- 
 tion of expediency. There must always be 
 more or less strain and friction in life, and we 
 ought to spare ourselves whenever a matter of 
 principle is not involved ; besides, if we have 
 money enough to travel for our pleasure, it is 
 hard that we cannot spare a little of it to those 
 
12 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 who must work all the time. If any one will 
 take the trouble to keep an account of the 
 money spent in fees during a journey, it will 
 not usually be found to amount to a very tre- 
 mendous sum, and it will certainly have added 
 much both to the comfort and the pleasure of 
 the traveller. 
 
 As the social life of Europe has been slowly 
 developed through hundreds of years, it is but 
 natural that it should have many more rules 
 than we have found necessary; in fact, it is as 
 much a game of skill as whist or chess, and 
 when we go abroad we must try to play as 
 well as we can. We are not expected to be 
 especially adroit, but we may at least avoid 
 making ourselves noticeable by ignorance on 
 some points which seem to a European matters 
 of course. 
 
 It must not be supposed that everything is 
 stiff and formal in Europe. On the contrary, 
 within certain limits, social intercourse is sim- 
 pler than in America. No restrictions press so 
 hard as those which are not recognized, and 
 in countries where everything has been long 
 ago defined, it is easy to fall into grooves. 
 
 The rule about chance acquaintances is that 
 they must never, except under extraordinary 
 
INTRODUCTION 13 
 
 circumstances, be made in the street or in a 
 museum or gallery ; on the other hand, any one 
 who happens to be in the same railway carriage 
 may speak to you, it being distinctly understood 
 that the acquaintanceship need go no farther. 
 For instance, you may travel for five or six 
 hours with a party of people, may lend them 
 your newspapers and borrow theirs, and talk 
 about the scenery or anything you like. If 
 you happen to see them the next day, you may 
 bow to them and they to you, but if you meet 
 the day after, even that is not necessary. 
 
 On board ship, also, there is an unwritten 
 law that any one passenger may speak to an- 
 other, but this does not bind them to know 
 each other after landing. 
 
 Before taking your place at a table d'hote, 
 you should bow slightly to the other persons at 
 your table, and also when you get up to go 
 away. People who omit to do this are thought 
 very rude on the Continent, especially in Ger- 
 many. 
 
 If you are next a stranger at table, it is allow- 
 able, and indeed polite, to talk with him or her; 
 and if your neighbour is a man it is your place 
 to speak first. 
 
 It is usual to say " good day " when you go 
 
14 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 into or out of a shop in France, Italy, or Ger- 
 many, and nobody thinks it strange if you 
 carry home a small parcel, but that is not the 
 custom in England, any more than it is to 
 greet the shop-people. A servant on the Con- 
 tinent, especially if you stay some time in an 
 hotel or apartment, expects, or at least likes, to 
 be bidden "good morning," but an English 
 servant would not understand it, nor is it good 
 manners there to bow to the salesman of a shop 
 in the street, no matter how well you may know 
 him by sight ; the corresponding person on the 
 Continent would be pleased, but in England it 
 is considered that business and personal rela- 
 tions are entirely distinct, and that the man 
 who serves you in a shop has the same right as 
 yourself to choose his acquaintances outside it. 
 This really laudable sense of personal dignity is 
 often mistaken by strangers for either stiffness 
 or servility. 
 
 In England, as with us, a woman bows first 
 in the street ; but on the Continent the reverse 
 is the rule, and men speak first to women. 
 The American custom that a man walking with 
 a woman should always keep himself between 
 her and the gutter is not known in Europe ; 
 a woman's place is invariably on a man's right 
 
INTRODUCTION 15 
 
 hand, whether walking or driving. If you walk 
 or sit on a man's left in Germany, it amounts to 
 an admission that you are of a decidedly lower 
 class. An older woman always sits on the right 
 of a young one, and if you are paying a visit 
 to a German lady, or to a Frenchwoman of the 
 old school, you will be invited as a courtesy to 
 sit on your hostess's right, but it is understood 
 that you will give up your place to the next 
 visitor who comes after you. 
 
 In making calls in Europe, cards are left only 
 for the married women of a family, as a girl is 
 not supposed to have separate social recognition 
 until she marries. 
 
 Of late years manners have everywhere be- 
 come so much more democratic that it is not 
 now so unusual as it used to be to see young 
 girls going about alone or together, and, as a 
 general rule, if a woman will dress quietly, walk 
 quickly, and look ahead of her, she will not be 
 molested ; but if one who is strikingly pretty 
 and showily dressed saunters slowly along, 
 looking into shop windows and also staring at 
 the passers-by, she will very likely be followed 
 by some man who is willing to take the chance 
 of possible amusement ; nor is hie altogether to 
 blame, because the nice women whom he has 
 
16 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOB WOMEN 
 
 known have not laid themselves open to such 
 misunderstanding. 
 
 The frank, level gaze with which the Ameri- 
 can girl, not thinking any evil, meets the eyes of 
 men who are strangers to her is always startling 
 to Europeans. Ladies in Europe, especially on 
 the Continent, dress quietly when walking, and 
 wear very little jewellery in daytime. The 
 mistake our women often make is in copying 
 the clothes and manners of people who are not 
 ladies at all. 
 
 The rule of the road in England is that you 
 pass to the left when riding, driving, or bicy- 
 cling, but when on foot to the right as with us. 
 In France, Germany, and most of Italy, one 
 passes to the right, but you cannot always be 
 sure; there are right and left-handed cities and 
 districts, so you must keep your eyes open if 
 you are bicycling or doing anything where you 
 need to know the local custom. Many of the 
 older towns have neither curbstone nor side- 
 walk, consequently nobody on the Continent 
 hesitates to walk in the street itself for any 
 distance. 
 
 When driving in small parks, such as that 
 of the Villa Borghese in Rome, you bow to 
 an acquaintance the first time you meet her 
 
INTRODUCTION 17 
 
 carriage, but not after that, the reason being 
 that people usually go round more than once, 
 and if they had to speak each time they met 
 their friends, they would be obliged to keep 
 nodding like Dresden china mandarins. 
 
 Every American who leaves his own country 
 should begin by going to England, for several 
 reasons. In the first place, while the transition 
 is marked enough, it is less violent than if one 
 is suddenly pitchforked into a place where the 
 language, as well as all the customs, are unfa- 
 miliar ; and then, although we have become 
 different in some ways from the English, we 
 are many of us descended directly from them 
 and have a common inheritance in their past. 
 Then, too, most things in England are on a 
 small scale, individually, compared to the Con- 
 tinent, and should therefore be seen first in 
 order that they may produce their due effect. 
 Some of the English cathedrals are extremely 
 interesting and beautiful, especially if one 
 comes to them with no standard of compari- 
 son; but after Chartres and Rheims and other 
 examples of Gothic art in France, even Canter- 
 bury and Ely look small, and one realizes that 
 they have been stripped of much that gave 
 them meaning centuries ago. Nor does our 
 
 / 
 
18 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 interest in England stop with her great histori- 
 cal monuments. The lanes where Shakespeare 
 walked, the churchyard where Gray wrote his 
 Elegy, and hundreds of other places, are full of 
 associations for us, and we are right to make 
 pilgrimages to them. 
 
 One of the great faults in the modern Ameri- 
 can, as it was in the old Athenian character, is 
 lack of reverence ; and anything which has a 
 tendency to develop that sentiment should be 
 sedulously encouraged. It does not make the 
 least difference that thousands of people before 
 us have been moved as they stood in the little 
 church at Stratford-on-Avon, or in Canterbury 
 Cathedral, where the Black Prince lies, with 
 his helmet and shield hanging over him ; if we 
 also feel a thrill, it means that we have in us 
 the capacity to be stirred by the memory of 
 words and deeds which were higher and nobler 
 than anything which we shall say or do in all 
 our lives ; and although we are told that no 
 man by taking thought can add to his bodily 
 stature, it is certain that the best aid to mental 
 growth is a healthy sense of our own littleness. 
 
PRELIMINARY READING 
 
 A Few General Works on Art 
 
 Those marked with a star (*) are of portable size, and useful 
 for reference. 
 
 Principles of Art, J. C. Van Dyke. Hunt & Eaton. 
 Part I. Art in History. 
 Part n. Art in Theory. 
 *How to Judge of a Picture, J. C. Van Dyke. Hunt & 
 
 Eaton. 
 Art Topics, Sculpture, Painting, Architecture, C. S. Farrar. 
 
 C. S. Farrar & Co. 
 History of Art (2 vols., trans.), W. Lubke. Dodd & 
 
 Mead. 
 History of Sculpture (trans.), W. Liibke. Smith Elder. 
 *Introduction to Gothic Architecture, J. H. Parker. 
 
 Parker & Co. 
 Architecture for General Readers, H. H. Stratham. 
 
 Chapman and Hall. 
 A Text-book of the History of Architecture, A. D. F. 
 
 Hamlin. Longmans. 
 Handbook of the History of Art (trans.), F. Kugler. 
 History of Painting (2 vols., trans.), F. Kugler. 
 History of Sculpture (trans.), F. Kugler. 
 *A Concise History of Painting, Mrs. C. Heaton. (Bohn 
 
 Library.) Macmillan. 
 Lives of the Painters, Vasari. (Bohn, 6 vols.) Macmillan. 
 Encyclopsedia of Architecture, J. Gwilt. Longmans. 
 History of Architecture (4 vols.), J. Fergusson. Murray. 
 Talks on Architecture (2 vols., trans.), VioUet-le-Duc. 
 19 
 
20 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Dictionnaire de 1' Architecture (10 vols., invaluable for 
 French Gothic), VioUet-le-Duc. 
 
 L' Architecture et la Peinture en Europe, A. Michiels. 
 
 European Architecture, Russell Sturgis. Macmillan. 
 
 Sacred and Legendary Art, Mrs. Jameson. Longmans. 
 
 Legends of the Monastic Orders, Mrs. Jameson. Long- 
 mans. 
 
 Symbolism in Christian Art, F. E. Hulme. Macmillan. 
 
 *Saints and their Symbols, E. A. Green. Sampson Low. 
 
 Books relating to Certain Periods 
 
 Introduction to the Study of the Middle Ages, E. Emerton. 
 
 Ginn. 
 Mediaeval Europe, E. Emerton. Ginn. 
 The Holy Roman Empire, J. Bryce. Macmillan. 
 The Renaissance, Walter Pater. Macmillan. 
 Renaissance Fancies and Studies, Vernon Lee. Putnam. 
 Kunst und Kiinstler des Mittelalters und der Neuzeit, 
 
 Dr. F. Dohme. 
 Die Kulturgeschichte des Mittelalters, Dr. Grupp. 
 Cultur der Renaissance, J. Burckhardt. 
 Die Spat Renaissance, G. Ebe. 
 Geschichte des Barockstiles, P. Gurlitt. 
 History of Modern Europe (3 vols.), C. A. FyfPe. Holt. 
 Governments and Parties in Continental Europe, A. L. 
 
 Lowell. Houghton, Mifflin. 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 
 
 The most important matter to decide is how 
 much you can afford to spend while you are 
 away, and it is well to subdivide the sum likely 
 to be at your disposal, until you know about 
 what may be allowed for each week, or even 
 each day. The reason for so doing is simple. 
 Long journeys from one place to another are 
 expensive, but stopping-places may be planned 
 in which you can make good use of your time 
 while your purse is recovering breath for a fresh 
 start ; and if you avoid retracing your steps 
 more than is absolutely necessary you will be 
 able to see more, and spend less. It is not pos- 
 sible to lay down any hard and fast rule as to 
 what your journey ought to cost, because that 
 depends upon your scale of expenses. Young 
 and strong women can get along on two 
 dollars a day each ; but five dollars is the 
 least sum which an older woman should allow 
 herself, if she wishes to be comfortable. 
 
 There are some obvious advantages in buying 
 a circular ticket through Cook's or another of 
 21 
 
22 EUROPEAISr TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 the travelling agencies. Not only can you tell 
 exactly what your tour will cost, but you are 
 taken care of everywhere by thoroughly efficient 
 machinery ; and if you know nothing of any 
 language except your own you will probably 
 profit more by your trip than if you try to 
 wander about alone. The disadvantage is that 
 you must follow the route you have chosen, thus 
 necessarily sacrificing that sense of freedom 
 which adds so much to a holiday. 
 
 In any case, I strongly advise you to go to 
 Cook's offices, which are to be found in almost 
 every city, for your railway and steamboat 
 ticketSo They will cost a fraction more than 
 at the stations, but it is a great convenience to 
 be able to get them beforehand, and it often 
 happens, if you want to secure sleeping quarters 
 or especial accommodations for a long journey, 
 that you can do much better by dealing with 
 the railways through an organization with 
 which they do an immense amount of business, 
 than if you try to do so on your own account. 
 Cook's interpreters are on duty at all large sta- 
 tions, and you will also probably find it con- 
 venient to use them, but do not forget to tip 
 them for their services, as they are supposed to 
 be there only to assist their employer's parties. 
 
preparations for the journey 23 
 
 Letters of Credit 
 
 The traveller's checks issued by the Ameri- 
 can Express Compaii}^, Brown Brothers, and 
 probably other firms, for fixed amounts of ten, 
 twenty, fifty, and a hundred dollars are very 
 convenient and cost only half of one per cent ; 
 but the old-fashioned letter of credit, which 
 costs one per cent over the regular exchange 
 and war tax, has many advantages for women. 
 In the first place, it is a sort of general intro- 
 duction from the banker who issues it to all 
 his correspondents, and in case of any accident 
 in a foreign town, such as, for example, arrest 
 for ignorantly breaking some ordinance, or a 
 sudden attack of illness, a banker in good 
 standing may be quite as useful as the resident 
 consul, even supposing that there is one in the 
 place. 
 
 Letters of credit are not usually given for a 
 less sum than five hundred dollars, although 
 exceptions are sometimes made. Your letter of 
 credit is by far your most precious possession, 
 and should be carried so carefully that there is 
 but little chance of losing it. Each one issued 
 has a number of its own, and this number 
 should be entered in at least two different 
 
24 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 places ; once, for instance, on a card kept 
 wherever you carry your ornaments, and again 
 in a note-book or diary. If it happens that 
 your letter is lost or stolen, you should 
 telegraph its number to your banker, who 
 will notify his correspondents not to pay any- 
 thing on it, and you will lose nothing. 
 
 The question of whether it shall be taken 
 out for English or French money depends 
 somewhat upon whether most of your time is 
 to be spent in Great Britain. If it is, it will 
 be more natural to draw your money in pounds, 
 shillings, and pence, and a certain weight of 
 credit attaches everywhere to English gold ; 
 but, if the principal office of your banker is 
 in Paris, and you expect to be chiefly on the 
 Continent, it is simpler to deal with francs 
 and centimes, especially as we are used to 
 a decimal currency. 
 
 The person to whom a letter of credit is 
 made out puts her signature on it, and it 
 should certainly be also signed by another 
 member of the party, as then two people 
 will be able to draw money on it instead of 
 one. In case of severe illness, or death, 
 great inconvenience may be caused if the 
 only signature on the letter of credit is that 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 25 
 
 of the person who can no longer write her 
 name, as the others may be entirely unable to 
 get money. 
 
 The great majority of people now never 
 think of taking out a passport for ordinarjf 
 European travel, but they are still useful aa. 
 a means of identification, and are regarded 
 as a proof of their owner's respectability. A 
 registered letter will almost always be handed 
 over at once if you produce a passport, and at 
 small custom-houses it has a very good effect, 
 so that, on the whole, it is well to provide your- 
 self with one. Passports are issued by the 
 State Department at Washington, and any 
 banker can direct you to a broker who will 
 get one for you ; but if you live in the city of 
 New York it is very easy to procure one for 
 yourself. On one of the upper floors of the 
 General Post-Office building there is a United 
 States Court and adjoining the court-room 
 you will find an office where you make your 
 application, and in a few days the passport 
 comes back from Washington, duly signed by 
 the Secretary of State. It costs four dollars, 
 and before it is handed to you it must be 
 signed by some one able to identify you, in 
 order to make sure that it goes to the rightful 
 
26 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 owner. For this reason you should take a 
 
 friend with you when you go to claim it. 
 
 A passport is good for two years, and may 
 
 be at the end of that time renewed for one 
 
 dollar. 
 
 Steamers 
 
 Your choice of an ocean steamer will natu- 
 rally depend a good deal upon your feeling 
 regarding the voyage and also upon the amount 
 of money you can command. If you look upon 
 the crossing as a horror to be got through with 
 as soon as possible, if you have plenty of money 
 and like the chance or certainty of fashionable 
 fellow-passengers, by all means take one of the 
 "ocean greyhounds." A note to the offices of 
 the various companies will bring you fat 
 envelopes full of plans and price-lists, for the 
 competition between the lines is very keen, and 
 by advancing or retarding for a little while 
 the date of your sailing you may strike the 
 "off season," when passages are considerably 
 cheaper. All companies make a reduction of 
 about ten per cent on the round trip if you 
 take a return ticket, and it is sensible to do 
 so if you can engage your homeward passage 
 definitely on a ship of the same line at the 
 time you sail from America. If, however, you 
 
PKEPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 27 
 
 are not sure just when you are coming back, 
 it is better not to bind yourself by a return 
 ticket, as without it you are free to choose 
 any line which suits you best as to date and 
 accommodation. Besides, it is asking almost 
 too much of human nature to expect that, in 
 a crowded season, you will be given as good 
 rooms, paying ten per cent less, as a person 
 without a round trip ticket, who will pay the 
 whole fare. In whatever ship you may choose 
 your cabin, there are a few things to be thought 
 of. There is less motion in the middle of the 
 ship than at either end of it. The gentlemen's 
 and ladies' toilet rooms are usually on opposite 
 sides, and it is well to be tolerably near the 
 latter, but not next door. And you should 
 also avoid being too close a neighbour of the 
 pantry or the barber's shop. 
 
 If your income is limited, it certainly seems 
 more sensible not to spend too much money on 
 the voyage, but to have it for the other side ; 
 and slow steamers are often steadier, and there- 
 fore more comfortable for bad sailors, than 
 very fast ones. The rooms are also larger in 
 many cases, and that is a great advantage. A 
 good-sized cabin on the upper deck, with plenty 
 of fresh air, and room to turn round in, may 
 
28 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 mean the difference between happinesss and 
 misery to its occupant, and insure her landing 
 in good condition to go on with her journey. 
 This last is an important consideration, as pro- 
 tracted seasickness and its consequent starva- 
 tion are most fatiguing, and it is sometimes 
 weeks before the sufferer is really well again. 
 
 It is customary to pay a deposit of twenty- 
 five per cent of the passage money when you 
 engage your passage. This payment secures 
 your berth up to three weeks before your sail- 
 ing, at which time the full amount of passage 
 is usually paid. You cannot secure a room to 
 yourself unless you pay two fares ; this rule, 
 however, does not always hold in the dull 
 season, and sometimes after the vessel starts it 
 is possible to make an arrangement with the 
 purser by which you may be alone in a cabin 
 without paying extra, although it is never 
 safe to be sure of it. 
 
 You may buy your ticket from New York 
 through to London, Paris, or Bremen, and 
 if you wish to stop on the way between the 
 port and your final destination, the luggage 
 will be sent on to await your arrival. 
 
 When you finally go to pay for your steamer 
 ticket, be careful to get a number of labels for 
 
PRBPAKATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 29 
 
 your luggage, both for that which is to go in the 
 hold and also for the steamer trunk and small 
 pieces which you keep with you in your cabin, 
 and be sure you take more of the latter than you 
 think you are likely to want, as you will find that 
 packages multiply like rabbits in the last days 
 before you go, and if friends send you butter, 
 fruit, etc., before you leave your house or hotel, 
 it will run no risk of being lost in the scramble 
 of getting on board if each box or basket has a 
 label with your name and cabin number plainly 
 thereon. 
 
 The custom of loading travellers down with 
 eatables, as if they were going to cross the 
 Great Desert, has gone out to a great extent, 
 but still there are a few things which add to 
 one's comfort considerably. To people who are 
 fussy about butter, that on board ship is never 
 more than fair, and a small tin kettle of some 
 which is really good may be put in charge of the 
 pantry steward, who will keep it in the ice-room, 
 and your cabin or table steward will bring it to 
 you, or put it at your place at each meal. If 
 you can have it made up before you start into 
 little separate balls, so much the better, as it will 
 last longer and look prettier than if blocks are 
 chopped off the large pat each time you want it. 
 
30 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Fresh eggs and fruit are both great luxuries, 
 the latter being almost necessary to health, and 
 you may like to have a small tin box of plain 
 biscuits or crackers (not sweet) in your cabin, as 
 if you are well at sea you are usually fiercely 
 hungry, and if not, you will often feel faint and 
 " gone," and should not allow yourself then to 
 be without food. Peppermint lozenges are an 
 excellent tonic for most people when they are 
 beginning to get over seasickness. 
 
 If you drink coffee, you should certainly take 
 with you, wherever you go, a few vanilla beans, 
 as a small bit of one, an inch long or less, broken 
 off and dropped into a cup, will take away the 
 bitter taste which is so common when coffee is 
 not good, besides giving it a pleasant smell and 
 flavour. Half a dozen beans are plenty to start 
 with, as you can get them easily in any large 
 town, and their odour is so aromatic and pervad- 
 ing that, unless you want everything which 
 comes near them to be flavoured like a pudding, 
 you had better keep them in a long glass bottle, 
 wide at the top and with a metal cover which 
 screws on tight, like those made to hold tooth- 
 brushes in travelling-bags. You may find them 
 at any large shop where they sell different sorts 
 of bottles for chemists. If you are particular 
 
PKEPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 31 
 
 about your tea you may take your own, and the 
 table steward or your stewardess will have it 
 made for you. 
 
 Foreign Money 
 
 At any banker's you will be able to get the 
 address of a reputable money-changer, and it is 
 a good plan to buy some foreign money before 
 you start. It is true that American money is 
 taken on any of the ocean steamers, but the 
 currency of the country to which the steamship 
 line belongs is the official medium on board ; 
 your bills are made out in shillings on an Eng- 
 lish boat, in francs on a French one, and in 
 marks on a German. Now if we consider our 
 quarter-dollar as answering to the shilling, franc, 
 or mark, for purposes of tips on board ship, you 
 can easily see that you will save money by giving 
 the foreign coin instead of its American equiva- 
 lent ; as a shilling and a mark are, roughly speak- 
 ing, twenty-four cents, and a franc only a little 
 over nineteen. 
 
 It is also a convenience to have some small 
 change of the country at which you expect to 
 land ; in fact, old travellers usually keep a little 
 of the money of each country, for convenience' 
 sake if they should go back to it, and they are 
 
32 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 also careful to take some American money 
 abroad with them, for immediate use when they 
 come home, as the New York or Boston hack- 
 man or truck-driver, although probably himself 
 an emigrant, will strenuously object to taking 
 foreign tribute. 
 
 If you buy a little money of each of the coun- 
 tries to which you mean to go, you will be able 
 to familiarize yourself with the look of the diff- 
 erent coins before you must actually use them. 
 
 Luggage and Belongings 
 
 Trunks, or "travelling boxes," as they are 
 called in England, are cheaper in Europe than 
 here ; but not better than those of our good 
 makers, and it is always false economy to buy 
 cheap trunks, if you mean to use them for trav- 
 elling, as these have a way of giving out and 
 coming to pieces just when it is hardest to mend 
 or replace them. Of course, if you are going 
 to carry a lot of clothes about with you, and 
 spend some time in cities or in making visits, 
 you will need the same wardrobe that you 
 would at home, and large boxes to hold it ; 
 but even then do not try to drag about the 
 huge arks with which some Americans still 
 advertise their nationality — not because you 
 
PEEPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 33 
 
 wish to renounce yours, but because you will 
 find them inconvenient, as Europeans are not 
 used to handling them. They are also very 
 cruel to porters, as hotels, except the largest, 
 have no freight elevators, or " lifts," as they are 
 called in Europe, and all luggage is carried by 
 hand, often up and down many stairs. Basket 
 trunks, or " dress boxes," are useful in England, 
 but not to be recommended for the Continent, 
 as there are clever thieves who make it a busi- 
 ness to slit the covers, push the osiers apart, 
 and take out any small articles of value. Dust 
 also sifts into them easily. 
 
 It is better to have two small pieces of 
 luggage rather than one large one, as it is eas- 
 ier to get about with them, and also cheaper to 
 take only a small trunk or large valise if you 
 are going off anywhere for a few days, while, 
 if you are invited to make a visit at a private 
 house and appear with a very large box, you will 
 simply be regarded as an unmitigated nuisance. 
 
 It is not a bad plan to take all your belong- 
 ings in one trunk from America, and then 
 buy two small ones after you land, if you 
 need them. In England you are entitled to 
 one hundred and twelve pounds weight of 
 luggage on a first-class ticket, eighty pounds 
 
34 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 on a second-class one, and sixty if you go 
 third-class, but there is seldom any charge 
 unless you have an exorbitant amount. In 
 France you are allowed thirty kilos, or 
 about sixty-six pounds, on a ticket of any 
 class ; and in most parts of Germany, fifty 
 pounds ; but in Italy, Belgium, Holland, and 
 Switzerland every pound of luggage must be 
 paid for, and at so high a rate that it is a 
 serious item in one's travelling expenses. In 
 Italy, for instance, to take one hundred kilos, 
 or two hundred pounds, weight of luggage 
 from one place to another will cost exactly 
 as much as a third-class ticket for the same 
 distance. 
 
 If you intend to wander about all day and go 
 to bed early, it is perfectly practicable to travel 
 comfortably with one medium-sized trunk, al- 
 though you may be rather crowded in the 
 matter of underclothing. With two cloth 
 tailor-suits, one thicker and one lighter, a 
 good silk or satin skirt, and a few blouses, or 
 shirt-waists, one is well enough provided for 
 sight-seeing and the table d'hote, but if jon 
 wish to go to tlie theatre you will need an 
 evening wrap, and if you stop to rest for a day 
 or two, some sort of house-dress or teagown 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 35 
 
 is a luxury. It is almost impossible to say 
 how much or how little luggage you should 
 take, as that depends entirely upon what repre- 
 sents to you necessaries. The best sort of 
 travelling petticoat is silk of a good quality, 
 but many pretty ones are also made of coloured 
 cotton stuffs, and if you have any decent enough 
 to get you across the ocean, you will be able 
 to find them either in London or Paris at less 
 cost than at home, because the work-people are 
 paid so much less. 
 
 If you are wise you will wear very simple 
 underclothes while travelling, as they will 
 receive very hard usage from the washerwomen. 
 Indeed, the use of chemicals to save time and 
 labour is almost universal in civilized places, 
 and in those which are out of the way the linen 
 is pounded on stones, so that between these 
 evils it soon gives up the struggle, and you 
 go about in rags. 
 
 It is difficult to see why any one should think 
 it necessary to have her name and home address 
 put on her luggage in full, as it is of no use, 
 and only serves to make her conspicuous, which 
 is always disagreeable to a lady, besides offer- 
 ing an opportunity to adventurers. Initials are 
 enough, but it is useful to have some simple 
 
36 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 sign, sucli as a cross, a round spot, or a star, 
 painted in red on either end of a trunk, near 
 the lettering, in order to be able to find it more 
 easily. Red corners are also a good distinction. 
 Probably many railway porters, on the Continent 
 at least, cannot read, but if you point to one 
 piece of luggage with such a mark on it, and 
 hold up as many fingers as there are other 
 pieces like it, you will find it has as much effect 
 as the most eloquent harangue. One of my 
 travelling companions devised a simple method 
 for distinguishing the keys of trunks, which you 
 may find useful in case you are bringing home 
 several pieces of luggage, or have an accumula- 
 tion of it for any reason. She collected ends 
 of narrow ribbon of very bright colours, then 
 cut each piece in two, and tied one half tightly 
 through the loop of the key, and the other as 
 firmly round the hasp of the lock, or through 
 one of the side clamps which are on nearly all 
 trunks now. The result was that at a custom- 
 house, or on arriving at an hotel with scant time 
 to dress for dinner, or when, at the last moment 
 before starting, a trunk had to be opened, the 
 key with the bit of green ribbon on it seemed 
 waiting with sentient eagerness to open the 
 trunk on which was a scrap of the same colour ; 
 
PREPABATIOi^S FOR THE JOURNEY 37 
 
 and as keys in their natural state all look 
 more or less alike, the saving of patience and 
 temper was incalculable. 
 
 Each person should have a steamer trunk, 
 and if of fair size it will be more useful after 
 landing than a very small one. A large, dark- 
 coloured canvas bag, or '' kit," with a lock, 
 such as all good trunk-makers sell now, is prac- 
 tical for soiled clothes, as they may be stuffed 
 into it, and kept by themselves. A canvas 
 cover with straps, in which the rugs and shawls 
 of the party may be neatly rolled, will keep 
 them from the dust of travel ; and still another 
 canvas case is advisable for holding umbrellas 
 and parasols, which otherwise soon get badly 
 chafed and shabby-looking. A very stout 
 valise, preferably of sole leather, to carry only 
 books, is a great convenience. One needs guide- 
 books, for instance, and they accumulate rap- 
 idly, and are bad neighbours to lighter articles 
 if carried in an ordinary trunk, besides being 
 inaccessible just when they are most wanted. 
 But if you have a valise for them, you can 
 keep it open until the last minute at an hotel, 
 and then take it with you in your railway 
 carriage, and surround yourself, if you have 
 a long journey, with any kind of literature, 
 
88 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 besides saving the considerable sum which they 
 would have cost if paid for as luggage. To be 
 sure, they will add to the amount of the tip 
 which you must give for carrying small articles 
 in or out of a station, and we were often 
 amused by the surprise of the porter who caught 
 hold casually of the book-valise, to find it 
 apparently filled with lead. A bag of netted 
 hemp, such as children carry schoolbooks in, 
 will be another blessing. It is certainly not 
 pretty, and the " smart " member of your party 
 will probably jeer at it ; but it holds together 
 all the newspapers, time-tables, and magazines, 
 which otherwise delight to flutter about the 
 deck, or hide in dark corners of the carriage, 
 or scatter from your arms on a station platform. 
 If you can photograph at all, a camera will be 
 not only an amusement, but valuable because 
 you can have, by its help, an illustrated journal 
 of your travels. As a rule, local photographers 
 take only objects of obvious interest, such as 
 churches and palaces ; if you want details of 
 architecture, or bits of scenery, you must take 
 them for yourself. The '' Daylight " Kodak, 
 5 X 4, is an easy size to carry, and in all large 
 cities you can get Eastman's films, or have 
 them developed. 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 39 
 
 People going to Europe for the first time are 
 usually, like the expectant mothers of first 
 babies, showered with all sorts of presents from 
 friends who are often more kind than practical. 
 Elaborate " housewives," with rainbows of sew- 
 ing silk and rows of fine needles, or writing 
 cases with beautiful penholders and tiny ink- 
 stands look delightful ; but black shoe-thread 
 and big needles may not be forthcoming from 
 the former when you want them, and you will 
 be lucky if the ink only dries up, and does not 
 leak over your other belongings. 
 
 If any fairy godmother offers you a travel- 
 ling-bag, fitted with toilet things, beg her to let 
 you wait and get it in England, which is their 
 native country, and where they are cheaper 
 than here. With us their weight is against 
 them, as one must often carry one's own hand 
 luggage ; but that need never happen on the 
 other side of the water. 
 
 Of all white elephants, a large and heavy bag 
 or dressing-case crowded with a number of 
 fittings as to which the beneficiary had no 
 choice is the worst, especially as no two 
 women ever want exactly the same things 
 in travelling. One who sunburns easily is 
 wretched without the lotion which she always 
 
40 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 uses ; another does not care for that, but wants 
 to have a bottle of smelling-salts or a box of 
 cold cream, or some special clothes-brush, or 
 hair-curling lamp to which she is attached, 
 where she may be able to put her hand on it. 
 The only sensible thing to do, therefore, is to 
 choose among your belongings those which really 
 add to your daily comfort, and then proceed to 
 build a bag round them. Each little bottle or 
 box, button-hook or nail-file, should have its 
 leather cubbyhole or strap in which it is always 
 to live when in the bag. By taking them out 
 and putting them back constantly you will soon 
 learn to do it mechanically, and if you have for- 
 gotten anything, its empty place is there as a 
 mute reminder, which will often prevent you 
 from leaving it behind. 
 
 A soap box or case is always included in the 
 fitting of a good bag, and is very necessary, as 
 soap is never furnished in Continental hotels. 
 
 A dressing-case of linen, or some such stuff, 
 with different divisions, which is what most 
 people have, and which will go in any bag, is 
 just as useful as a more elaborate arrangement ; 
 the point is that there should be a settled place 
 for each of your toilet articles in order to keep 
 them together. You cannot get along without 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 41 
 
 a hand-bag, and do not make the mistake of 
 choosing it too small, or of leather which will 
 easily become shabby ; russet or black pigskin 
 or morocco is very serviceable. Here are a 
 few suggestions as to its contents : — 
 
 Keep an ordinary paper-cutter, not so fine 
 that it would be heart-breaking to lose it, and 
 also a common wooden pencil, slipped under 
 little straps or loops just inside the top, so 
 that they may be reached in a moment with- 
 out having to burrow after them. 
 
 A cheap stiff fan which will stay folded, and 
 a thick gauze veil in case of excessive dust, will 
 lie peacefully in the bottom and give no trouble 
 if they are not wanted. A small bottle of 
 brandy or ginger ought not to be omitted. A 
 folding silver fruit-knife is a luxury, and there 
 are several kinds of travelling drinking-cups 
 which do not take up much room and are often 
 a great convenience. A little " housewife " or 
 sewing-case, with glove and shoe buttons, a 
 thimble, safety-pins, cobbler's thread, and a 
 plaited tress of sewing silk for mending, is 
 almost indispensable. With the present fashion 
 of coloured petticoats and various blouses it is 
 perfectly possible to be twenty-four hours away 
 from your trunk, if the hand-bag is large 
 
42 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 enough to hold, besides your dressing-case, a 
 nightgown, another blouse, stockings, and some 
 handkerchiefs. Now these are rather intimate 
 garments to display to casual eyes every time 
 the bag is opened; but they will pass unnoticed, 
 and furthermore be kept quite clean, if they are 
 carried in a simple case like those made for 
 handkerchiefs, but of some quiet colour, and 
 another little bag in which to slip soiled hand- 
 kerchiefs is also useful. 
 
 Many people keep their reserve money and 
 such valuable ornaments as they carry with 
 them, in a belt or pocket which they wear all 
 the time. Should you not wish to do this, get 
 a small tin box with a Yale lock, make a dark 
 flannel cover for it, so that it will neither 
 attract notice nor chafe your other things, and 
 let it live always in your bag. The keys of this 
 box and of the bag should be in some place 
 always easy to get at, and you should see that 
 your bag is locked in hotels, or if you leave it 
 in the parcel rooms of railway stations. 
 
 Low shoes are so much worn now that one's 
 feet do not feel tired after a long day's travel- 
 ling as they used to do from buttoned boots ; 
 but if one means to stop over night, room may 
 be made in the bag for a comfortable and yet 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 43 
 
 nice-looking pair of slippers, and these should 
 also have a dwelling-place of their own. The 
 patterns for shoe-bags are many, but one of the 
 best seems to be a case like a large envelope, of 
 brown linen, or some such material, bound with 
 braid, and with a pointed flap which buttons 
 oyer, as an envelope is shut. 
 
 Or else there need be no case or bag at all, 
 but a piece of stuff about eighteen inches square, 
 bound all round, with two ends of tape or braid 
 left loose at one corner, in order to tie the shoes 
 up into a neat parcel. To be convenient it is by 
 no means essential that a travelling-bag should 
 be very expensive, but it is worth while to give a 
 little thought and spend a little money on some- 
 thing which will make a decided difference in 
 your daily comfort. 
 
 A large " steamer bag " of stout linen, with 
 different divisions, is almost necessary for use 
 in one's cabin, as it keeps together conveniently 
 handkerchiefs, underclothes, and countless little 
 things which otherwise have a tendency to 
 stray. Pack this bag quietly at home with 
 the things which you think you will be most 
 likely to want for the first few days after you 
 sail, and put it in your steamer trunk, all ready 
 to hang up when you go on board. Into one of 
 
44 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 the pockets slip a few small screw-eyes with 
 sharp points, so that in case you are not able 
 to pin it on the back of the sofa in your cabin, 
 you may screw it into the woodwork in some 
 place where it will do no harm. 
 
 Provide yourself with two bags of checked 
 gingham, or some stuff of that kind, for your 
 soiled linen ; you can thus send one to the 
 wash, and have the other to use while the first 
 is away. 
 
 A simple, thin, flannel dressing-gown which 
 you may wear over your nightgown at sea, or 
 if you think a hotel bed is not entirely dry, 
 is indispensable, as well as a pair of knitted 
 slippers to wear in your berth or whenever 
 you feel chilly, but not quite cold enough to 
 need a hot-water bottle. You should also 
 have another dressing-gown or wrapper of 
 some quiet colour, in order not to be too con- 
 spicuous when you go to the bath-room. A 
 travelling cloak of some kind should be a con- 
 stant companion. Nine times out of ten it is 
 a great nuisance and terribly in your way, but 
 on the tenth it will prevent your taking a bad 
 cold, which is more of a nuisance still. 
 
 As to writing materials, experience has con- 
 vinced me that the most practical thing to have 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 45 
 
 is a separate inkstand, big enough to hold a 
 good supply of ink (those of rubber, with screw 
 tops, are excellent), and a large plain leather 
 blotting-book, with a strap for your penholder, 
 and a pocket in one cover, in which you may keep 
 your paper. Postage-stamps may be bought in 
 any hotel, and will travel best in a small flat 
 leather book with oiled paper leaves and a button 
 catch, which will also slip into this pocket. If 
 you are in the habit of writing on your knee, one 
 of the lap-boards which now come in all degrees 
 of elaboration may be just what you want, but 
 the inkstands for them are as a rule microscopic, 
 and they are apt to have more fittings than you 
 will really need. Travelling is something like 
 cooking; the better a cook is, the fewer utensils 
 she needs outside the necessary tools of her 
 trade; and the more you go about the less you 
 will care to accumulate things on the chance 
 of their being useful. 
 
 All the same, there are some belongings which 
 will add distinctly to your comfort. Besides 
 the little housewife in your bag, you should 
 take some extra buttons like those on your 
 underclothes, some black sewing-silk, fine and 
 coarse, and some elastic if you are likely to need 
 it. A tape-measure with inches on one side 
 
46 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 and centimeters on the other may be bought at 
 most good thread and needle shops, and let me 
 recommend you to take it with you if you go to 
 buy stockings anywhere outside of England, as, 
 unless you do, the wily salesman will probably 
 persuade you that he has given you just your 
 size, and you may either find your purchase in 
 wads about your toes and folds around your 
 ankles, or else not be able to get your foot into 
 it at all; for nothing lends itself to deception 
 with such glee as a stocking, — especially if it be 
 silk, — except perhaps a collar, and if you must 
 buy the latter the measure will again be useful, 
 unless you want to know how it feels to be 
 garroted. One meter corresponds to thirty- 
 nine inches, which is near enough to our stan- 
 dard if you are only getting a yard or two of 
 ribbon; but if you buy twelve meters you must 
 reckon that you will have thirteen yards. 
 
 A great many useful articles may be carried 
 in a small box, and if it is of tin, so much the 
 better — I know one originally meant to hold 
 dry ginger which has crossed the ocean several 
 times with credit to itself and comfort to its 
 owner. Hotel porters now understand pretty 
 well how to take care of russet shoes, but if 
 you have any special dressing for your black 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 4T 
 
 ones you had better carry it in another little 
 tin box, and take care of them yourself, for if 
 you put them outside your door they will prob- 
 ably be blackened like a man's. Some Ameri- 
 can patent medicines and toilet articles may be 
 found in every large European city; but if you 
 have any convenience or remedy to which you 
 are attached, and which does not take up much 
 room, by all means take it with you, for it is a 
 nuisance to go chasing about in strange places 
 for prosaic trifles when you might better be 
 using your time in seeing something worth 
 remembering. 
 
 Very few American women can find ready- 
 made shoes or boots to fit them in Europe, even 
 if they are in the habit of doing so easily at 
 home ; the shape of our feet seems to be peculiar. 
 It is therefore better, unless you are going for 
 a long time, to take enough to last until you 
 come back, especially as it is extremely fatigu- 
 ing to stand about while sight-seeing in shoes 
 which are not comfortable. 
 
 It is also difficult to get good thin rubber 
 overshoes, and as they are not bulky you will 
 be wise to carry a pair. 
 
 A rubber hot-water bottle with a separate 
 flannel coat (because chambermaids are likely 
 
48 EUEOPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 to get the cover wet if it cannot be taken off) 
 should go with you everywhere, and a small 
 funnel is useful for filling it ; a tin box of 
 mustard leaves may also prove invaluable. A 
 clinical thermometer is another almost neces- 
 sary article, and be sure that it is well tested 
 and accurate. Try to find room for a small 
 medicine chest, or case, especially if you expect 
 to be in out-of-the-way places. Of course you 
 hope never to need anything from it, but it 
 is better to bring it back unopened than to 
 run the risk of needing it sorely. For possible 
 general use the following things will be enough : 
 A roll of adhesive plaster and a couple of small 
 bandages ; a bottle of cholera mixture ; some 
 quinine pills ; a good liniment for sprains, and 
 any pills or liquid which you are in the habit 
 of taking to ward off a cold. 
 
 If there is any mild laxative in which you 
 have faith, provide yourself with some of it, as 
 you will find it useful in travelling, and espe- 
 cially at sea. 
 
 There are innumerable prescriptions for sea- 
 sickness, each one warranted to be more effica- 
 cious than the other, and none of them is a 
 panacea ; but I have certainly had good results 
 in my own case and with other people from 
 
PKEPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 49 
 
 some little granules made by Dr. Burggraeve, 
 and belonging to what is called his " dosimetric " 
 system. Those for seasickness are hyoscyamine 
 and sulphate of strychnine, and you can get 
 them at any good apothecary's, in boxes each 
 of which contains a number of tiny bottles of 
 the granules — the hyoscyamine is brown and 
 the strychnine white. If a person knows that 
 she has any constitutional weakness of the 
 heart, she ought never to experiment with any 
 drug except under her physician's orders ; I 
 merely say that, of all the various remedies 
 for seasickness which I have seen tried, these 
 granules seem to be among the most useful, 
 and they are certainly easy to carry. 
 
 Be sure that any prescriptions you take with 
 you are legibly written. In all large cities 
 there are American and English pharmacies, 
 but it is better not to get anything compli- 
 cated made up outside of them. " Grains " are 
 unknown in the Continental pharmacopoeia, 
 " grammes " being used instead ; and as a 
 gramme is equivalent to about fifteen grains, 
 in the case of a powerful drug a mistake would 
 be fatal. 
 
 As to thermometers, the English use Fahren- 
 heit's, as we do : while the Centigrade is univer- 
 
50 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 sal on the Continent, except in Russia, some 
 parts of Germany, and Switzerland, where Rea- 
 mur's is used. The Centigrade or Celsius 
 thermometer reckons zero as freezing and one 
 hundred as boiling point. Reamur's starts in 
 the same way, but reckons boiling point as 
 eighty, whereas Fahrenheit's, the most irra- 
 tional ever made, reckons freezing at thirty- 
 two and boiling at two hundred and twelve. 
 
 If you are in the habit of consulting a ther- 
 mometer, take one with you on which the three 
 different scales are marked, and this you can get 
 at any good optician's. Should you not care to 
 do this, you will find an illustration of one at 
 the back of this book ; if you see in a Paris 
 newspaper that the thermometer is ten degrees 
 Centigrade, by looking at the illustration you 
 will find that equal to fifty degrees Fahrenheit, 
 and you will thus know how warm or cold you 
 ought to feel. As the degrees of the Centigrade 
 thermometer are so much larger than those of 
 the Fahrenheit, the intervals between them are 
 reckoned in tenths. This is worth remembering 
 in case you consult a foreign physician. 
 
 Even if you are travelling with very little 
 luggage, you can find a corner in your bag, or 
 in a trunk which will be always with you, for 
 
PRfiPARATIOKS FOR THE JOURNEY 51 
 
 one of the small alcohol lamps or " Etnas," 
 which are not larger than an ordinary tin mug, 
 and may be found at any house-furnishing shop 
 or department store. Take also a flat tin bottle 
 with a screw top for alcohol. If you are fond 
 of tea, with this lamp you can always make 
 yourself a cup; or if you want a little hot 
 water at any time, you are independent. There 
 is still another reason for taking it. Many 
 people are extremely careful about the water 
 they drink, and yet peacefully brush their teeth 
 from what they find on their wash-stands, which 
 is not consistent, as microbes are invisible 
 beasts, and one is as good, or as bad, as a 
 thousand. If you wish to take every precau- 
 tion, therefore, you should boil the water for 
 your teeth, and then you may feel that you 
 have done everything in your power to escape 
 possible danger. 
 
 A portable rubber bath-tub is very little 
 trouble, as it may be carried in the kit, and it 
 will save its cost several times over. There 
 are no bath-rooms in most foreign hotels, and 
 a charge, varying slightly with the grade of 
 the hotel, is always made for the tin tub which 
 is brought into one's room. As this charge 
 is usually only ten cents, the oldest or most 
 
c^ 
 
 52 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 luxurious member of the party may be willing 
 to afford that, and then any amount of cold 
 water and a more or less generous supply of 
 hot will be brought for nothing to the other 
 rooms, and with a rubber tub you may be just 
 as clean. There are endless patterns of these, 
 and one of the best, which I have used for 
 years, came from J. C. Cording, 19 Piccadilly. 
 Those which inflate are at the mercy of the 
 casual pin-prick, but in this one the sides are 
 held up by something like whalebone, and it is 
 very durable. 
 
 With regard to what clothes you will need 
 on board ship, that depends a great deal upon 
 the steamer which you have chosen. On some 
 of the very fashionable ones women are now 
 said to dress almost as much as if they were 
 at home, but that certainly seems unnecessary. 
 Heroines in novels are always described as 
 bewitchingly lovely at sea, but to more ordi- 
 nary mortals it is decidedly trying. Unless 
 the hair curls naturally as tightly as a water 
 spaniel's, it is soon blown into straight wisps, 
 and a few days on deck will usually give a 
 liberal coat of sunburn to the complexion. 
 Girls on their first voyage often look as if the 
 steamer had carried them off from the dock by 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 53 
 
 mistake ; but, on the other hand, old travellers 
 who keep old clothes for the ocean are apt to 
 have the air of pauper emigrants ; while one 
 sometimes sees a despondent soul who gives 
 up the struggle in despair and makes occasional 
 visits to the deck in a large cloak worn over a 
 flowered dressing-gown. A cloth tailor-made 
 suit is by far the most appropriate, and one's 
 shoes or boots should be particularly neat, as 
 feet are nowhere more evident than at sea ; 
 rubber soles will make walking pleasanter and 
 safer, as the decks are often slippery ; and in 
 case of damp weather it is well to have thin 
 woollen gloves, as those of kid or dogskin soon 
 feel clammy and sticky. Two woollen dress- 
 skirts and two pairs of shoes are necessary, as 
 in case you get wet, as often happens, it takes 
 hours to have your things dried somewhere 
 in the mysterious depths of the ship. 
 
 A proper hat for the sea is one that fits the 
 head closely, is trimmed neatly with ribbons or 
 stiff feathers, and has a slight brim to protect 
 the eyes from the glare of the sky and water. 
 It should also be turned up at the back in order 
 that the head may rest against the steamer 
 chair. Sailor hats with their stiff brims are 
 uncomfortable unless one is always aggressively 
 
54 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 well, and although yachting caps and "deer- 
 stalkers" are convenient, they are also extremely 
 trying unless a woman is young and beautiful 
 enough to wear anything. If people are able 
 to go to the table at all they usually make an 
 effort to dress for dinner; but for that a 
 couple of pretty blouses and a black satin skirt 
 or something of the kind are usually quite 
 enough. 
 
 Wraps trimmed with fur are not particularly 
 pleasant at sea, because if it is damp the fur 
 sticks together and smells unpleasantly ; if, 
 however, you have an old fur-lined cloak 
 which has begun to shed itself too liberally, you 
 can make it comfortable for the steamer by 
 covering the fur with an inner lining of thin 
 silk or surah. You thus have all the lightness 
 and warmth of the fur, and yet it will not get 
 damp nor wiU the hair come off on your cloth 
 frock. 
 
 Warm underclothes, a thick rug, and an extra 
 shawl are always useful, as the Atlantic is apt 
 to be more than chilly, even in midsummer; 
 and a little cushion covered with dark silk, to 
 hang on the back of your deck chair, will make 
 it more comfortable, besides being a luxury 
 afterward in railway carriages. 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 55 
 
 It pays to get a good steamer rug, as the 
 cheaper ones are apt to be heavy and clumsy, 
 and you had better take it on your travels, 
 as it is often cold in the mornings and even- 
 ings, and if you drive at all you will need it. 
 If you have a soft, thin shawl which is warm 
 without being bulky, spread it over the top 
 tray of your trunk and let it go with you : 
 many a time you will be glad to have a little 
 extra covering on your bed, without the trouble 
 of sending for it. 
 
 If, before you sail, some friend offers to make 
 for you anything you may want, ask her to hem 
 some pieces of plain white muslin, or of some 
 pretty flowered cotton stuff, large enough to 
 cover the trays of your trunk, and to be well 
 tucked in at the sides, to prevent the contents 
 from jumbling about, as they love to do. Trifles 
 like this scarcely seem worth bothering about, 
 but they certainly add to one's comfort. 
 
 Although the mercury in European ther- 
 mometers rarely races up and down as many 
 degrees in the twenty-four hours as we are used 
 to, if you are travelling, even in summer, you 
 will need a considerable range of clothing, to 
 avoid catching cold. There are now many little 
 spencers and underbodices, woven of cotton, silk, 
 
56 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 or wool, which take up a very small space, 
 either on the body or in a trunk, and you will 
 find a few of them useful. They are consider- 
 ably cheaper, I may say, in England or France, 
 on account of our customs duties. If you have 
 room in the bottom of your reserve trunk, you 
 might take one of the folding waste-paper bas- 
 kets which are made of cardboard covered with 
 chintz. When the ribbons which hold the side- 
 panels together are untied, they lie quite fiat, 
 and they weigh next to nothing. I only men- 
 tion this as a possible convenience or luxury, 
 because a waste-paper basket is never part of 
 the furniture of a hotel bedroom, and after you 
 receive your mail, or if you do any shopping, 
 you will have a litter of paper and envelopes 
 likely to vex a tidy soul, unless the weather 
 allows you that handiest devourer of rubbish, 
 a fire. 
 
 Take a supply of visiting-cards, even if you 
 do not expect to make a call while you are away, 
 as they are everywhere looked upon as a proof 
 of respectability, less official than a passport, 
 but almost as effective. Keep a few always 
 with you in your card-case or pocket-book — 
 and by the way, it is only Americans, I believe, 
 who carry the latter in their hands. European 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 57 
 
 women tuck them away somewhere, which 
 seems safer. If you mean to be moving about 
 much, it will be sensible to order a number of 
 large envelopes lined with linen, and with your 
 name printed plainly upon them. Everything 
 is usually addressed to your principal banker, 
 either in England or on the Continent, and he 
 will, according as you direct, either enclose all 
 your letters to you, or run his pen through the 
 address to him, and add the address to which 
 you wish him to forward it. It costs more to 
 have letters enclosed, because fresh postage 
 must be paid; but it is much more satisfactory, 
 as everything comes together in one large 
 enclosing envelope, instead of having to be 
 sorted piecemeal from the pile at each banker's 
 where you claim them. If you leave your large 
 envelopes with the first banker, he simply has 
 to put the address of his correspondent where- 
 ever they are to meet you, and if your name is 
 at all an uncommon one, it is a great conven- 
 ience to have it -clearly printed. 
 
 On most ocean steamers now there is a fairly 
 good library, so that it is not necessary to lay in 
 a stock of books for the voyage, even if you 
 expect to be able to read, but a few novels and 
 magazines of your own never come amiss, and 
 
68 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 you can leave them for your stewardess when 
 you are done with them. 
 
 A few years ago the traveller on his way to 
 Europe might always be known by the steamer 
 chair which stuck out proudly on the top of 
 his luggage, and they still range themselves 
 outside the trunk shops, a sure sign of spring. 
 It is quite unnecessary, however, to burden 
 yourself, as there is a company which has 
 a stand on each ocean steamship dock, both 
 here and in Europe, and a dollar or its equiv- 
 alent will hire one for the voyage, after which 
 you will have no further bother with it, — or 
 else the deck steward will rent one to you 
 after you go on board. In any case each 
 member of the party should have one for her- 
 self. Take time to look them over and choose 
 a stout one with a high back against which you 
 may rest your head. Your card will be slipped 
 into a little frame on the back, but if you are 
 canny you will tie a small knot of some out- 
 rageously gaudy ribbon round the top rail, 
 where you will be sure to see it every time you 
 come on deck. On windy mornings, when the 
 deck is at an unnatural slant, and it has 
 required heroic courage to emerge at all, one 
 little blurred card looks much like another; but 
 
PBEPAEATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 59 
 
 a yellow ribbon with a red border will cheer- 
 fully proclaim your chair to you, and will also 
 protect it from those squatters who do not 
 hire any for themselves, expecting to take 
 advantage of the illness of other passengers. 
 
GUIDE-BOOKS, DICTIONARIES, AND 
 NOVELS 
 
 Begin to collect your guide-books as soon as 
 you decide where you are going. No matter 
 how much you may have read about the places 
 you mean to visit, such knowledge must neces- 
 sarily be more or less disconnected, but in a 
 guide-book you will find information in a 
 highly concrete form ; you can see just how 
 many miles it is from one city to another, how 
 long it will take you to make the journey, and 
 all such practical details. 
 
 Then, also, if you have friends who already 
 know the places you wish to visit, you can 
 consult them much more intelligently if you 
 have a book which will suggest questions, and 
 which you may mark for future reference. 
 Remember that it is no part of the business 
 of a guide-book to make up your mind for 
 you; it is written to be useful to as many 
 different kinds of people as possible, and as 
 you cannot be equally interested in everything, 
 try to ask some one who knows your tastes 
 60 
 
GUIDE-BOOKS, DICTIONARIES, ETC. 61 
 
 what you had better make a point of seeing, 
 and what you may omit. There are several 
 good Satchel Guides to Europe, but these are 
 necessarily rigorously condensed, and on the 
 whole, the best guide-books for English-speak- 
 ing people are those of Murray, and the trans- 
 lations of Baedeker. Murray has excellent 
 descriptions of scenery and objects of histori- 
 cal interest, and its literary quality is better, 
 but Baedeker is rather more convenient to take 
 about with you, and its advice as to the choice 
 of hotels is fuller, and thought by some to be 
 more accurate. Be careful to get as recent an 
 edition of either as you can, on account of 
 possible changes in routes, etc. Besides the 
 volumes which include whole countries, Murray 
 has a separate one for London and another for 
 Rome, and Baedeker for London and for Paris. 
 You will find one of these indispensable for use 
 on the spot, as they tell you on which days 
 the picture galleries and museums are open, 
 how you can best see the most interesting 
 sights, and altogether give you fuller informa- 
 tion than is possible in those which must cover 
 a larger field. If you are familiar with French, 
 you will find the Guides Joanne and Guides 
 Conty very good, especially for France, and 
 
62 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 in both series there are a number of little 
 monographs, one for each district or town of 
 any importance, which are extremely cheap, 
 and easy to carry. As a general rule, when 
 you arrive at a new place, go to a bookseller 
 and ask if there is not a local guide-book, as 
 you will usually find that one has been written 
 by an enthusiastic resident, which will tell you 
 more than you can learn from any other source. 
 
 Do not throw away your guide-books when 
 you are done with them, but send them home 
 by post to some one who will give them house- 
 room until your return, as you will find them 
 delightful to refer to, and even a glance at 
 their shabby backs will transport you to Cam- 
 bridge or Avignon or Palermo as quickly as the 
 wishing-carpet. 
 
 Hare's "Walks," in many different cities, are a 
 valuable supplement to Murray or Baedeker, 
 and while you may not agree with all of Rus- 
 kin's dogmas about art, he is worth reading in 
 Florence or Venice or Amiens. Mr. Henry 
 James's " Little Tour in France " is a charming 
 companion in Touraine or Provence, and the 
 descriptions in his " Portraits of Places " are to 
 those in an ordinary guide-book what a real 
 portrait is to a photograph. 
 
GUIDE-BOOKS, DICTIONARIES, ETC. 63 
 
 Mr. Symonds and Mr. Howells have given 
 many people pleasure by what they have writ- 
 ten of Italy and Switzerland, and Miss Edwards's 
 " Untrodden Peaks and Unfrequented Valleys " 
 is a traveller's classic for the Italian Tyrol. 
 These are only a few of the books which will 
 add to your pleasure, and I have given the 
 names of a few more, after my notes of the 
 countries to which they relate. 
 
 As to dictionaries, the best small French one 
 for general use is that of Bellows ; Nutt's Con- 
 versation Dictionaries, for several languages, 
 are also very good, but not easy to get in this 
 country. The Tauchnitz dictionaries of French, 
 Italian, and German are not too large to carry 
 about, and those of Feller, the smallest of all, 
 so far as I know, are wonderfully comprehen- 
 sive, considering that they may be carried in 
 the pocket — or might have been a few years 
 ago ! 
 
 In Baedeker's "Traveller's Manual of Con- 
 versation in Four Languages," you will find 
 many phrases which you can easily learn by 
 heart, and Messrs. Cook & Co. have published 
 a handbook of the same kind which is rather 
 smaller, but very practical, and which costs 
 
64 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 There are some novels which it seems almost 
 obligatory to read in the places to which they 
 refer ; for instance, in every bookseller's win- 
 dow in Florence you will find " Romola " in 
 bindings of varying elaboration, and "The 
 Marble Faun," and "The Last Days of Pom- 
 peii," are as evident in Rome and Naples. 
 Well known as these are, I have put them into 
 a partial list of historical novels (in making 
 which my own memory was much helped by 
 Mrs. Dixson's exhaustive " Subject Index to 
 Prose Fiction "), and I have also ventured to 
 add a few of Scott's, although we are now 
 sometimes told that he is no longer read. If 
 Scott's history is not trustworthy, that of the 
 elder Dumas is still less so, and yet I strongly 
 recommend you to read some of his romances, 
 if you have not done so already, as you will get 
 from them a brilliant impression of what France 
 was like two or three hundred years ago. 
 Among English novelists, G. P. R. James and 
 Harrison Ainsworth have been handed over to 
 the healthy omnivorous appetite of boyhood, 
 and yet there are duller books than the form- 
 er's " Cavalier," or the latter's " Constable of 
 the Tower." 
 
 Jane Austen's novels are a mirror of English 
 
GUIDE-BOOKS, DICTIONARIES, ETC. 65 
 
 middle-class social life in the last century, and 
 you may get the same faithful reflection of it, 
 as it was a few years ago, in those of a writer 
 who, although he was not a genius, is now too 
 little read — Anthony TroUope. Balzac created 
 a world of men and women who were often 
 rather types than characters, but when he put 
 them in a setting of French provincial life, as 
 in " Eugenie Grandet," or " Le Cure de Tours," 
 the effect is of absolute reality, and this is 
 true, although in a less degree, of some of 
 George Sand's rural stories — " Frangois le 
 Champi," for example. 
 
 Even if you already know " Saracinesca," and 
 the other volumes of the same series, there are 
 some novels of Mr. Marion Crawford's which 
 it is well worth while to read in the country 
 which he knows as only a man can who loves it, 
 and to whom the speech of its people is as his 
 own. " Marzio's Crucifix " is unrivalled as a 
 study of middle-class Roman society, which 
 foreigners never see, and in many of his descrip- 
 tions one feels how close he has come to the 
 heart of the South. 
 
 Signor Verga, who wrote the story of " Caval- 
 leria Rusticana," and Signora Serao are among 
 the best known of the modern Italian novelists, 
 
66 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 and many of their books have been translated 
 into French or English. 
 
 The German historical novel is apt to be a 
 somewhat solemn and conscientious production, 
 but there are many studies of modern life, 
 especially in out-of-the-way places, which are 
 extremely interesting. I have only given a few 
 of these, but if you are fond of German you 
 will find out more, and I recommend to you the 
 sketches of burgher-life in Berlin, by Dr. Julius 
 Stinde, which are called "Die Familie Buch- 
 holz," and have been translated into English. 
 They are broadly humorous, but the humour 
 often deepens into satire, and the characters 
 are developed with admirable simplicity. 
 
ABOUT BICYCLES 
 
 The roads in Europe are almost everywhere 
 excellent, and certain districts, such as the 
 valley of the Loire, are especially well adapted 
 for bicycling trips. It is not difficult to hire 
 bicycles in any large place, but a woman who 
 rides much gets used to her own, and may pre- 
 fer to take it with her, especially as most of 
 the best American makers have offices in the 
 large cities, where any serious accident may 
 be repaired. The steamship companies usually 
 charge two dollars and a half for transporta- 
 tion, and the bicycle must be securely boxed 
 or crated. 
 
 Messrs. F. O. Houghton & Co., steamship 
 agents, 115 State Street, Boston, publish a 
 concise and useful little pamphlet called " Bi- 
 cycle Notes for Tourists," from which, by their 
 permission, I have taken most of the following 
 information. Brentano publishes a handbook 
 called " The Cyclist's Continental Companion," 
 which gives a summary of the principal routes 
 in France, Italy, Germany, Switzerland, and 
 67 
 
68 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Holland, and Spurrier's " Route Book of Great 
 Britain and Ireland," which is published in 
 London, has good maps and clear instructions 
 for the United Kingdom. 
 
 Before you start you should have your bi- 
 cycle thoroughly overhauled and put in order 
 for hard work, and find out from the maker 
 whereabouts he has agents abroad. The num- 
 ber should be plainly stamped on some part of 
 the frame which cannot be detached, and your 
 name put on a plate where it may be easily 
 seen. A bell, a lamp, and a brake are abso- 
 lutely necessary. If you cover all the nickelled 
 parts of your bicycle with vaseline before \t is 
 boxed for the voyage, you will keep it from 
 rusting, and you had also better take duplicates 
 of any parts which are liable to break, and 
 could not easily be repaired in an out-of-the-way 
 place. 
 
 The Cyclists' Touring Club of Great Britain 
 and Ireland, commonly known as the " C. T. C," 
 is one of the largest athletic associations in the 
 world, having a membership of about fifty thou- 
 sand, and as it is international, and easy to 
 join, you should certainly do so. Its chief rep- 
 resentative in America is Mr. Frank W. Wes- 
 ton, Savin Hill, Boston, and the entrance fee 
 
ABOUT BICYCLES 69 
 
 is thirty cents, the annual subscription being 
 one dollar and thirty-five cents. Application 
 to Mr. Weston should be made six weeks before 
 you intend to leave America, in order to allow 
 time for an answer from England, or if that is 
 not convenient you may wait until you reach 
 London, as there is no duty on bicycles brought 
 into England. The executive offices of the 
 American division of the C. T. C. are at 47 
 Victoria Street, Westminster, and the secretary 
 is Mr. E. P. Shipton. If you are a member of 
 the L. A. W., or of any recognized amateur 
 bicycling club, no other reference is necessary ; 
 if you are not, you are expected to bring " rea- 
 sonable and satisfactory proof of respectability 
 and position," which it is not difficult to do. 
 
 The advantages of belonging to the C. T. C. 
 are various. While in England you profit by 
 special rates at the inns and lodgings frequented 
 by members of the club, and pay considerably 
 less for your maps and road-books. 
 
 When you first begin to ride remember with 
 all your might and main that if you meet any 
 person or vehicle you pass to the left. The 
 habit of passing to the right is so ingrained 
 with us that unless you are careful you may 
 have a bad accident. 
 
TO EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Membership in the C. T. C. is especially 
 valuable if you are going to the Continent, as 
 it entitles you to bring your bicycle free of 
 duty into France, Belgium, Italy, and Switzer- 
 land, which will save you time, money, and 
 much wear and tear of temper. Get all the 
 information you can from the headquarters be- 
 fore leaving England, and keep your member- 
 ship ticket where you will always be able to 
 show it easily. For Italy, you must be provided 
 with a special ticket ; in Austria, you are also 
 required to have a passport, and in Switzerland, 
 a ticket, a full description of your bicycle, and 
 a photograph of yourself. 
 
 The " Touring Club de France " corresponds 
 to the C. T. C, and has at least as many 
 members. Its headquarters are at 5 Rue 
 Coq-Heron, Paris, and its representative in 
 America, Mr. F. S. Hesseltine, 10 Tremont 
 Street, Boston. It is not difficult to become 
 a member, especially if you already belong to 
 the L. A. W. or the English Club, and the 
 subscription is one dollar a year, with twenty 
 cents extra for an official guide giving the 
 names of hotels, repair shops, etc., where a dis- 
 count to members is allowed. Your card of 
 membership must have your photograph on it, 
 
ABOUT BICYCLES 71 
 
 and the name and number of your bicycle, and 
 we are told that you have only to wear your 
 badge to be assured of courteous treatment 
 everywhere. French railways transport bi- 
 cycles as luggage, and are responsible for any 
 damage to them, but you can collect a larger 
 indemnity if you have a first-class ticket. The 
 very considerable revenue derived from the 
 annual license tax imposed on the bicycles of 
 all permanent residents is used to improve the 
 public highways, and to place danger signals on 
 the crest of all steep descents. 
 
 In France, you pass to the right, as at home, 
 but certain rules are more rigorously enforced 
 than with us. You are required to have a 
 gong or bell which can be heard for at least 
 fifty yards. You must light your lamp as soon 
 as the sun sets. The name and address of the 
 owner must be on every bicycle. In crowded 
 thoroughfares you must dismount and lead 
 your prosaic steed, and you may not go on 
 pavements or footpaths reserved for pedes- 
 trians, except in the country, if the roadway 
 is being mended and is therefore impassible. 
 If you are thus on a footpath you must moder- 
 ate your speed if you meet any one. It is not 
 allowable to form groups which may obstruct 
 
72 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 the highway, and passing through a funeral or 
 a military procession is strictly forbidden. 
 
 In each country there are formalities which 
 must be observed, but if you are a member of 
 either of the two great clubs you can easily 
 obtain all the necessary information in regard 
 to them. 
 
CROSSING THE OCEAN 
 
 Be careful to get down to the steamer in 
 good time. The spectacle which may often be 
 seen, of a cab galloping frantically along the 
 dock, bearing a belated and haggard family 
 who rush up the gang-plank just as it begins 
 to move, is very amusing to those who look on, 
 comfortably leaning over the rail, but not so 
 pleasant to the people themselves. 
 
 As soon as you are safely on board go to 
 your cabin and see that all your belongings are 
 in it, and if not, try to find your cabin steward 
 and set him to collecting them. Do not, how- 
 ever, attempt to see the purser for any reason 
 until the ship starts, as he will be much too 
 busy to be able to attend to you. 
 
 When the ship has drawn away from the 
 dock, it would be pleasant, if the day is fine, 
 to watch the river and enjoy yourself on deck ; 
 but if you are wise, and especially if it is your 
 first crossing, you will go down into your cabin 
 and get everything in order while there is no 
 motion. Take off the frock you have been 
 73 
 
74 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 wearing and fold it neatly, for everything that 
 can get wrinkled or crushed at sea does so with 
 delight ; unpack your steamer trunk, put on 
 the frock you mean to wear during the cross- 
 ing, and put away in the bottom of your box 
 the one you wore aboard. If the hat in which 
 you mean to land is perishable, bring a band- 
 box in which to keep it, as if you hang it in the 
 wardrobe of your cabin its feathers and flowers 
 will be apt to look decidedly melancholy after 
 a week of damp salt air. 
 
 Settle your cabin as well as you can. Put 
 your cologne bottle where you can get at it 
 easily, and your tin of biscuits near at hand, 
 and if you use one of the drawers above your 
 washstand for your toilet things, be sure to 
 spread something like a crumpled handkerchief 
 in the bottom, or else as soon as the vessel 
 begins to roll they will clatter and click to- 
 gether, to your exasperation. It ought not to 
 take you more than half an hour to get settled, 
 and unless the weather has been extraordinarily 
 bad, you will scarcely feel any motion for the 
 first two hours after you leave the dock. 
 
 It is hardly likely that you will be alone, 
 and if you are not, arrange with your com- 
 panion which berth she is to take, and how 
 
CROSSING THE OCEAN 75 
 
 you shall each best avail yourselves of the 
 very limited space at your disposal. During 
 the voyage, you must scrupulously respect each 
 other's rights and be as considerate as possible ; 
 for instance, when you go to bed roll your 
 clothes into neat parcels, and do not leave your 
 skirts to swing to and fro with every roll of 
 the ship, or your shoes to knock about on the 
 floor. 
 
 Ring for your cabin stewardess, make her 
 acquaintance, and ask her to send you the bath 
 stewardess. Say to her that you hope to be 
 able to take a bath each day, and choose the 
 hour which will suit you best. Breakfast on 
 board ship is usually from eight o'clock until 
 ten, and people who know they are good sailors 
 often take their baths early, as they would do 
 at home ; but those who are not sure to be so 
 courageous should choose half -past nine or ten 
 for their regular time, as one is usually awake 
 by seven or half-past, and that allows a com- 
 fortable interval after one's tea or coffee and 
 yet gives time to dress before luncheon. 
 
 When you have done all you can in your 
 cabin, go in search of the steward whose busi- 
 ness it is to seat people at table, and tell 
 him you wish to be with your friends. This 
 
76 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 he can always arrange, and if you are one of 
 a large party he will probably give you a table 
 to yourselves, or at least see that you are all 
 together. 
 
 Find your way about the ship a little, and 
 notice what staircase leads most conveniently 
 from your cabin to the saloon or the deck, 
 and also where the ladies' toilet room is. Then 
 you will have done everything you can below 
 stairs, and had better go to the deck, interview 
 the deck steward, and tell him to take good 
 care of you and to put your chair in a shel- 
 tered position every morning. 
 
 Heroic souls usually say that if you are going 
 to be seasick, you had better let it come, and 
 that you will feel all the better when it is over. 
 It is certainly true that you can do a great 
 deal to prevent feeling seasick by going on 
 board with your digestion and liver in good 
 order, and that if you are tired out and bilious, 
 you will almost certainly succumb. I have 
 known old captains who confessed to having 
 been upset after too many good dinners on 
 shore. It may do you no harm to be sick for a 
 few hours, or a day or two, and you may feel 
 perfectly well after it ; but for many women and 
 young girls, especially if they are not very 
 
CROSSING THE OCEAN 77 
 
 robust, it is a great strain. If you have had 
 only a moderate attack, as soon as you feel 
 better try to eat, if only a little. Dry biscuit 
 or toast and a bit of ham or tongue seems to be 
 about the best thing, and port wine, bitter 
 ale, or champagne the most refreshing drink. 
 Ginger ale is also good, if not found too 
 sweet. 
 
 If you mean to try the hyoscyamine and 
 strychnine granules of Dr. Burggraeve, when 
 you first wake in the morning take one of 
 each in a swallow of water, then wait a quar- 
 ter of an hour and take two more, until you 
 have taken four of each ; then wait a couple 
 of hours and take two again if you feel at all 
 sick, repeating them at intervals during the 
 day, but not oftener than once in two hours 
 after the first doses. If the strychnine makes 
 your throat very dry, do not take them so often, 
 nor the hyoscyamine if it makes you feel at 
 all light-headed. 
 
 Fresh air is after all the best preventitive 
 and cure for seasickness, and if you can strug- 
 gle on deck, do so by all means, even if you do 
 not leave it until bedtime. The deck steward 
 is used to feeding helpless passengers, and there 
 are some on every steamer who never occupy 
 
78 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 their seats at the table at all, but we will sup- 
 pose that you are to be more fortunate. 
 
 If you have anything the matter with you 
 while on board ship beyond seasickness, or if 
 that lasts too long, you had better consult the 
 ship's physician, as every passenger steamer is 
 obliged by law to carry one. He is not re- 
 quired, however, to attend any except the 
 steerage and second-class passengers, and you 
 should pay him as much as you would your 
 own doctor at home, although he will not send 
 you any bill. 
 
 The scale of tips depends somewhat upon 
 the cost of your cabin, and also upon the 
 amount of trouble which you give the attend- 
 ants. Remember, by the way, that the people 
 who wait on you are always known as " stew- 
 ards " and " stewardesses," and they are apt to 
 feel injured if called by any other name. 
 
 On the ships of the larger companies the cabin 
 stewardess is supposed to receive twenty shil- 
 lings, or its equivalent, for each room, which 
 would be equal to two dollars and a half 
 apiece if the room has two occupants, and the 
 cabin steward, who helps the stewardess, ex- 
 pects five shillings. Three shillings is usually 
 quite enough for the deck steward, unless he 
 
CROSSING THE OCEAN 79 
 
 has waited on you a great deal ; the head 
 steward and your dining-room steward should 
 have five shillings, and your bath stewardess 
 three. I have said "shillings," but if you 
 go in a French or German steamer, francs or 
 marks represent the unit. 
 
 These tips are supposing you are practically 
 well all the time, able to go to your meals, and 
 do not give much trouble ; but if you have to 
 be fed on deck or in your room all the time, 
 the deck steward or your stewardess should be 
 proportionately remembered, and if you have 
 much kept in the ice-room, the pantry steward 
 should also have a couple of shillings. 
 
 Some of the German steamship lines have 
 music on board, which is furnished by the 
 second cabin stewards, and they expect to 
 receive a small fee from each passenger. 
 
 One or two simple words connected with 
 ships are as well to learn as soon as you go on 
 board, if you do not know them before. There 
 is no such thing as front or back, right or left. 
 The front of the ship is " forward," called " for- 
 rard" or the "bow," the back is the "stern," 
 called " aft." If you go to the front, you walk 
 " forrard " or toward the " bow " ; if you go in 
 the other direction it is "aft" or toward the 
 
80 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 "stern." The right side of the ship as you 
 stand facing the " bow " is always called " star- 
 board" ; and the left side, "port." It is easy 
 to remember which is which, if you will think 
 that " port " and " left " have both the same 
 number of letters. 
 
 For purposes of discipline and to divide the 
 work fairly on board ship, the crew is mus- 
 tered into gangs which are called watches, and 
 are each on duty four hours. Time is kept 
 by means of "bells." A bell is struck every 
 half hour after midnight until eight bells 
 have been sounded, and then they begin again ; 
 except between four o'clock in the afternoon 
 and eight o'clock in the evening, when there 
 are two short watches of two hours each, known 
 as the "dog watch," and made in order that 
 the same men shall not always be on duty at 
 the same time. 
 
 Eight bells are struck at noon, at four p.m., at 
 eight P.M., at midnight, at four A.M., and eight 
 A.M. For example, at half -past eight A.M., one 
 bell is struck, at nine, two bells, and so on until 
 noon. In a very short time you can learn the 
 way of counting by them, and need not trouble 
 to keep your watch set by the ship's clock. 
 There is five hours' difference in time between 
 
CROSSING THE OCEAN 81 
 
 England or France and America, and while 3^011 
 are on your way to Europe you will gain, because 
 you are going east. 
 
 There are always valiant souls on board ship 
 who behave exactly as if they Avere on land. 
 They dress early, appear in good time at the 
 breakfast table, and walk vigorously up and 
 down the deck between meals; but for most 
 people this is too energetic a routine. If you 
 are an average sailor, as soon as you are 
 fairly awake, ring for the stewardess, ask 
 her to bring you your tea or coffee, and take 
 with that a bit of biscuit or toast. Then rest 
 until you feel like having your bath, which will 
 probably be about half -past nine. That is usu- 
 ally one of the pleasantest occupations of the 
 day, the warm or cold salt water in the large 
 marble or porcelain tub being a great luxury. 
 If you dress slowly after it you will probably 
 get on deck about half -past eleven, in time for 
 bouillon, which the steward brings on a tray, 
 and then you will settle yourself in your chair, 
 swathed like a cocoon in your rug, until lunch- 
 eon time. After luncheon the long stretch 
 of the afternoon seems endless, but it goes by 
 somehow, and, as the dusk begins to fall, it is 
 time to dress for dinner. If you sit on the deck 
 
82 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 in the evening, be sure to wrap yourself up well, 
 as it is always damper than in daytime. 
 
 Under ordinary circumstances, even if you 
 have suffered from seasickness, after the first 
 few days you will begin to recover and take an 
 interest in life again. You will even think 
 of writing home. If you do, get your post- 
 age-stamps from the purser in good time, and 
 also have your money changed, if you should 
 need it, as every one has a way of rushing at him 
 on the last day before reaching port, and his stock 
 is sometimes exhausted. People travelling for 
 the first time sometimes forget that American 
 postage-stamps are of no use in Europe, but it 
 is the business of a ship's purser to keep those 
 of the country in which you will land. 
 
 And now a word as to your behaviour. It 
 is a disagreeable fact that some American girls 
 contrive to put themselves at a disadvantage 
 from the time they leave their own country. 
 A ship's company is a little world with all 
 sorts and conditions of men and women in it, 
 and not all of them always unobjectionable. 
 As you are shut up together for some days, it 
 is usually impossible, unless you have a large 
 party of your own friends, to keep entirely 
 aloof from other passengers, and a reasonable 
 
CROSSING THE OCEAN 88 
 
 amount of liberty is allowed. For instance, 
 if you are struggling along the deck against a 
 high wind, trying to keep your wraps to- 
 gether, the first man you meet will probably 
 help you to your chair, and after a day or two 
 you will very likely have a speaking acquaint- 
 ance with people whom you never saw before 
 you came on board ; but that is no reason 
 why such acquaintanceship should grow faster 
 than it would under normal circumstances on 
 shore. Many girls have afterwards bitterly 
 regretted having been too amiable when stran- 
 gers tried to make friends with them at sea, 
 and the very fact that you are so closely 
 thrown together is a reason for your being 
 more careful than if it were easier to get away 
 from each other. A pushing person, encour- 
 aged perhaps because you had nothing better to 
 do, may become an intolerable nuisance after 
 you land or when you are both at home again. 
 
ENGLAND 
 
 At last, or all too soon, you are getting near 
 " the other side," and we will suppose that you 
 are going to land in England, in which case 
 you had better give a little time to studying 
 the different pieces of English money, which 
 is somewhat perplexing until one gets used to 
 it. That aristocratic but obsolete coin, the 
 guinea, which has not been made for eighty 
 years and is not in circulation, is still constantly 
 spoken of as a standard of value, meaning a 
 pound and a shilling, consequently two guineas 
 is forty-two shillings. Although one com- 
 monly speaks of a five-pound note, or of four 
 pounds, one pound is almost always called a 
 sovereign, ten shillings a half-sovereign, and 
 two and sixpence is usually known as half-a- 
 crown. The crown, worth five shillings, is 
 sometimes met with, but not so often as the 
 smaller silver coins, and there is a new four- 
 shilling piece which is not looked on with 
 favour by English people. The difference be- 
 tween the two-shilling piece and the half-crown 
 84 
 
ENGLAND 85 
 
 is troublesome until you get to know them apart 
 by the sense of touch. The half-crown is about 
 the size of our fifty -cent piece, although there is 
 more silver in it, but the two-shilling piece is 
 bigger than our quarter. They all have on one 
 side the head of Queen Victoria, and the half- 
 crown has on its back a single shield bearing 
 the arms of Great Britain. The old issue of 
 the two-shilling piece or "florin," as it was 
 sometimes called, has four small shields so 
 arranged that they form a cross, which renders 
 it easily distinguishable at a glance ; but the 
 new piece has three shields surmounted by a 
 crown, the whole making a triangle, which is 
 not nearly so noticeable. You should learn as 
 soon as possible to tell these coins apart easily, 
 not so much because you may pay the wrong 
 money in a shop, for there you will be cor- 
 rected, as because you may give either more 
 or less than you intend in a tip, and in Eng- 
 land the difference between two shillings and 
 half-a-crown seems to be more than the mere 
 money value. Shillings and sixpences are easily 
 learned ; the smallest silver piece is worth three- 
 pence ; then there are pennies and half-pennies 
 of copper, and also farthings, though the latter 
 are not common in fashionable London. 
 
86 
 
 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 The following comparison of the value of 
 
 English and American coins is very rough, and 
 
 simply made for your convenience. At any 
 
 banker's, or if you are sending a post-office 
 
 money-order, you will be given the accurate 
 
 rate. 
 
 English. American. 
 
 Half-penny (ha'penny) 
 One penny 
 
 Twopence (tuppence) 
 Threepence (thrippence) 
 
 A shilling 
 
 Two-shilling piece 
 Half-a-crown 
 Four shillings 
 Five shillings 
 Ten shillings 
 A sovereign 
 
 One cent. 
 
 Two cents. 
 
 Four cents. 
 
 Six cents. 
 / Twenty-four cents (or our 
 I quarter) . 
 
 Half-a-dollar. 
 
 Sixty-two cents. 
 
 One dollar. 
 
 One dollar and a quarter. 
 
 Two dollars and a half. 
 
 Five dollars. 
 
 Bank-notes for five pounds (or twenty-five 
 dollars) are the smallest denomination now 
 made in England, although Scotland still issues 
 notes for a single pound which, however, do 
 not pass current across her border. There is 
 nothing in England corresponding to our 
 national bank system. The beautiful crisp 
 white notes all come from "the old lady in 
 Threadneedle Street," as the Bank of England 
 used familiarly to be called, and as soon as a 
 
ENGLAND 87 
 
 note finds its way back to the bank, it is imme- 
 diately destroyed, even if it sliould be as fresh 
 as when issued, the consequence being that the 
 bank-notes are cleaner and pleasanter to handle 
 than those of any other country in the world. 
 
 The Bank of England is one of the sights of 
 London, and the head beadle in his robes of 
 office one of the most august functionaries you 
 will ever encounter ; the lord chancellor him- 
 self is not nearly so imposing. 
 
 It must be remembered that money goes 
 much further abroad in some ways than it does 
 with us. So many Americans have been lavish 
 in their expenditure, especially as to tips, that 
 we are as a nation expected to pay or give more 
 than other people, and it is hard at first to hit 
 the proper mean between stinginess and prodi- 
 gality. On general principles I should say 
 that in the matter of fees a coin is worth about 
 twice as much as with us. Twopence or three- 
 pence (always called tuppence or thrippence) go 
 as far as ten cents at home. Sixpence is equal 
 to a quarter, a shilling to fifty cents, and half-a- 
 crown to a dollar. The scale of tips is higher in 
 England than in Scotland or Ireland, because 
 the country is richer, and on the Continent one 
 gives more in France than in Italy or Germany. 
 
88 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 And now let us go back to the steamer again, 
 for you must be nearing land. Do not leave 
 your packing until the last minute unless you 
 are actually too ill to do it at all, because the 
 approach to a strange country is always in- 
 teresting, and it is stupid to be in your cabin 
 while the vessel is going up the Mersey or 
 the Solent. If your port is Southampton, and 
 you are so lucky as to sail along the Isle of 
 Wight on a fair summer morning, you will be 
 hard to please if you do not feel the charm of 
 England. The sky is soft, with clouds nearer 
 the green earth than they are in our thinner air, 
 and every colour has been mellowed by the 
 persistent gentle touch of rain into a delicate 
 half-tone. It is borne in on you that it has 
 all been there for a long time, and if you have 
 any English blood in your veins you know what 
 Hawthorne meant when he wrote of " Our Old 
 Home." 
 
 Nearly all the steamship lines now land their 
 passengers directly at piers; but in certain 
 conditions of tide or weather they are sent 
 ashore in small tenders, which if it is wet is 
 apt to be a rather uncomfortable process. 
 
 The English custom-house is not very for- 
 midable, and women travelling alone are apt to 
 
ENGLAND 89 
 
 have an easier time than men because what 
 every custom-house looks out for principally 
 is tobacco and spirits. French perfumery, to 
 be sure, pays a duty in England, but one has 
 not usually enough of that to make it worth 
 considering. 
 
 If you bought your ticket through from New 
 York to London, it probably includes first-class 
 railway accommodations from the port at which 
 you land, and in after journeys you can decide 
 for yourself by which class you will travel. 
 The difference of fare from Southampton to 
 Waterloo Station, a distance of seventy-nine 
 miles, is as follows: the first class is thirteen 
 shillings; second class, eight shillings; third 
 class, six shillings and sixpence, just half the 
 price of the first. Many of the nicest English 
 people always travel third class, except per- 
 haps when they are going on long journeys, 
 such as that between London and Edinburgh. 
 
 For ordinary distances, if you do not care 
 about being alone, third class is entirely prac- 
 ticable ; but if you are going through the 
 "black country," or into the mining district, 
 where there is a rough population (which you 
 can easily find out from your guide-book), it 
 "will be, perhaps, wiser to choose first class. 
 
90 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Unless you are much hurried, I advise you to 
 stop for a few days at Chester or Winchester, 
 depending upon whether you have landed at 
 Liverpool or Southampton. Both places are 
 very interesting and characteristic, and, although 
 they are on the highroad of travel, the greater 
 part of it rushes past them, hurrying to the 
 great city or to the sea. 
 
 Do not be surprised if you feel languid and 
 tired after landing ; that is frequently the 
 result of the voyage and also of the English 
 climate, which Americans are apt to find at first 
 very relaxing. By resting for a few days be- 
 fore going into the stress of London, you will 
 give yourself time to get acclimated, and will 
 also get a first impression which no subsequent 
 travel will ever efface. 
 
 When the porter has trundled the hand 
 luggage of your party alongside the railway 
 carriage at the dock (for which sixpence will 
 be quite enough, unless you have a great deal), 
 climb in, and if you are the first, take places by 
 one of the windows and any others which you 
 may choose, but sit together at one end of the 
 carriage, and have your small pieces put in the 
 rack above your heads. If there are people in 
 the carriage already, and you wish to be by your- 
 
ENGLAND 91 
 
 selves, tell the porter that you want to speak to 
 the guard, as the conductor of an English train 
 is called. When he comes, say to him that you 
 would like, if possible, to have a carriage for 
 your party, when he will unlock another at 
 once and you will find yourselves installed 
 alone. For this, you will give him a shilling 
 later. When, however, the ship's company 
 is very large, the special train sent to meet it 
 is sometimes crowded, and even the most oblig- 
 ing guard cannot create space. 
 
 The question of the advantage or disadvan- 
 tage of the European railway carriage is about 
 even, like that of their luggage system. If you 
 are lucky enough to have a carriage to yourself 
 or with only one other person, supposing you 
 are three in your own party, you have much 
 more privacy than is possible in a Pullman car, 
 and you can also control at least one of the 
 windows, so that you need not stifle. The 
 seats are also more comfortable than the Pull- 
 man chairs, because one can move about more 
 in them. But if the carriage is crowded, the 
 people seem more objectionably near than in 
 our cars, and one person who objects to venti- 
 lation may torture all the others by refusing 
 to have the windows open at all. 
 
92 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Before you start, make up your minds how 
 you want to sit as to going backward or for- 
 ward. Seats in the English railway carriages 
 face each other, and consequently half the 
 people must go with their backs to the engine, 
 which many prefer, as the dust and wind fly 
 past if the window is open, and not directly 
 into one's face ; but many people are made un- 
 comfortable by sitting backward during a long 
 journey, and there is no glory in being an ama- 
 teur martyr. The ideal travelling companions 
 are two people, one of whom likes to sit facing 
 the engine and the other with her back to 
 it, because between them they can control a 
 window. 
 
 All railway companies are obliged by Act 
 of Parliament to run one train a day at the rate 
 of a penny a mile ; this goes very slowly, and 
 is known as the " Parliamentary train," which is 
 puzzling at first to Americans, as they naturally 
 think of something like the " Congressional 
 limited," which it does not resemble at all, as 
 it is used almost entirely, like some of our 
 accommodation trains, by country people who 
 are in no hurry. 
 
 "Bradshaw's Railway Guide," which is also 
 issued for the Continent, is the classic English 
 
ENGLAND 93 
 
 railway time-table, and if you are clever in this 
 branch of literature, you will find it of great use. 
 A simpler manual, known as the "A. B.C. Rail- 
 way Guide," only gives the routes and fares to 
 and from London ; but for that it is exceedingly 
 useful, as you can look up any place in the 
 United Kingdom and see at once how to get 
 there from the metropolis and how to return. 
 The prices of the railway fares in each class are 
 also marked, and it has a map of London and a 
 schedule of cab fares. 
 
 Let me recommend you not to throw away 
 your time-tables when you are coming home. 
 "Bradshaw," or its Continental fellows, the 
 French " Indicateur des Chemins de Fer," or 
 the Italian " Orario," are useful for future 
 reference because, although the times of trains 
 may change, the distance between places does 
 not, and the cost of travel remains about the 
 same. 
 
 The method of forwarding luggage in Eng- 
 land will probably strike you at first as showing 
 a sublime confidence in human nature. When 
 you arrive at a station to go anywhere, you 
 call a porter, and point out the pieces which you 
 wish to take into the carriage with you ; the rest 
 are put upon a hand truck and wheeled away 
 
94 EUROPEAN TEAVEL FOE WOMEN 
 
 to be labelled, you following. The truck is 
 pushed upon scales, and if you have an out- 
 rageous quantity you are charged for it ; but 
 they are much more liberal as to this than on 
 the Continent. A little label with the name 
 of the station to which you are bound is then 
 stuck upon each piece, but you are given no 
 receipt, nor anything at all corresponding to 
 our claim checks. Your belongings then trun- 
 dle off toward the luggage van, and you feel 
 as if you were never going to see them again. 
 When you get to your journey's end, you go 
 with another porter to claim them, and in a few 
 moments your boxes have been extracted from 
 the mass and are again collected on a small 
 truck. Here the advantage of some distin- 
 guishing mark on the end of a trunk is obvious, 
 as you can say, " All those with the black cross 
 (or the red spot) are mine." In the beginning, 
 you miss the system of baggage transfer and 
 checking ; but when you have been abroad for 
 some time you see that the other plan has its 
 advantages, one being that when you arrive at 
 a place you get your luggage at once, and you 
 also have it with you until just before you start. 
 It is, of course, very convenient to be able to 
 give one's checks in the train and not have to 
 
ENGLAND 95 
 
 think of them again ; but we have all of us 
 known what it was to be solemnly assured by a 
 transfer agent that our luggage would arrive 
 " within an hour," and to be still without it at 
 the end of five. It is the fashion to abuse the 
 foreign system, but from my own experience 
 and that of many others whom I have known I 
 believe that the percentage of loss is certainly 
 not greater than it is in this country. 
 
 On some English railways a method somewhat 
 like that of our checking is now coming into use ; 
 but the old way is not really so hazardous as it 
 at first seems, because every one goes, or sends 
 a servant, to claim his luggage as soon as he 
 gets to his destination, and any one else who 
 attempted to do so would be promptly arrested. 
 If you go from London to Cobham, for in- 
 stance, your box, which has been duly marked 
 " Cobham " before you start, is put out on the 
 station platform there, and you identify it at 
 once. 
 
 In case you have to change from one train to 
 another, if you are prudent you will make sure 
 each time that your luggage changes with you ; 
 although, if you are able to buy a through 
 ticket, your luggage will be labelled with the 
 name of its final station when you start. 
 
96 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 There is no local express in England ; every 
 one carries his own belongings on the roof of 
 his cab, which in the country and in small 
 towns is called a ''fly." According to the 
 dictionary this is "a light vehicle which plies 
 for hire" — it is certainly not named from 
 its speed. 
 
 There are many cabs always waiting at every 
 station in London, and you will probably never 
 need anything else, but if by any chance you 
 should be travelling with a large party who 
 have a quantity of luggage, you may as well 
 order a station omnibus to meet you, which is 
 very easy to do. 
 
 Find out at which of the many London sta- 
 tions you are due, and address the station 
 master, saying, '' Have omnibus meet train at 
 four o'clock, " or whenever the time is, and sign 
 your full name. 
 
 Inside the station you will find a row of omni- 
 buses drawn up near the train, and if you walk 
 down the line, saying, " Which is the omnibus 
 for so and so ? " when you come to the right 
 man he will answer, and hold out your own 
 telegram as a voucher. Then, when your lug- 
 gage has been collected, it is put on top of the 
 omnibus, and you all get inside and are driven 
 
ENGLAND 97 
 
 wherever you wish to go ; and when you are 
 come to your lodgings or hotel, you ask the 
 porter or servant at the door to pay for the 
 omnibus and give the driver whatever is right, 
 and put it on the bill. 
 
 In Europe the telegraph is under the control 
 of the government instead of being managed 
 by private companies, and in England it is con- 
 ducted in connection with the post-office. The 
 manner of sending a telegram differs from ours. 
 You ask for a blank, or " form " as it is called, 
 write what you want to say, and then show it 
 to the clerk at the window, who will look at it, 
 tell you what it costs, and give you several 
 postage-stamps ; these represent the price of 
 your telegram and are to be stuck by you 
 on the blank as if for the postage on a letter ; 
 then you hand it in through the window to 
 him again. 
 
 Telegrams may be sent to all parts of the 
 United Kingdom at the rate of sixpence for 
 the first twelve words, but these words include 
 the address of the person to whom it is sent. 
 Each word beyond twelve costs a halfpenny. 
 
 In most provincial towns in England the tel- 
 egraph offices are open from eight to ten a.m. 
 on Sundays ; and in Scotland and Ireland from 
 
y» EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 nine to ten A.M., instead of between five and 
 six P.M. as with us. 
 
 No sensible person will drop into the world 
 which is London without having an idea before- 
 hand of where to go, and as to this you had 
 better consult friends who have already been 
 there. The huge hotels built to attract Ameri- 
 cans are of all degrees of splendour and costli- 
 ness, and they must serve their purpose, or their 
 number would not increase ; but they are really 
 as alien to England as are the palm trees in 
 their halls. 
 
 The pleasantest months of the year in Lon- 
 don are May, June, and July, but during that 
 time " the season " is in full swing, and every- 
 thing is crowded ; if you mean to be there then 
 it is really necessary to engage your rooms 
 beforehand. 
 
 When an Englishman comes "up to town" 
 with his family he stops either at a small hotel 
 or in lodgings ; and both of these are scattered 
 everywhere in London, their price depending on 
 the neighbourhood. In the strangers' quarter 
 near Bond Street and Piccadilly, both hotels 
 and lodgings are dearer than anywhere else. 
 English people often prefer the neighbourhood 
 of Sloane Street or " out Kensington way," 
 
ENGLAND 99 
 
 which has, however, the disadvantage of being 
 rather remote for strangers. If you do not 
 mind being unfashionable, there are very pleas- 
 ant lodgings in many of the small streets off 
 the Strand, or near the Marble Arch, at the 
 Oxford Street end of Hyde Park; the whole 
 district around the British Museum is also full 
 of them, for the convenience of students. 
 Prices vary so much that it is hard to set any 
 standard, but two good bedrooms and a sitting 
 room may be had for two guineas a week, and 
 that in a desirable neighbourhood. The Eng- 
 lish idea is that each lodger shall have as much 
 privacy as possible ; there is no common dining 
 room, and each family is served in its own 
 sitting room. You ring the door-bell, are ad- 
 mitted by a servant, go to your own rooms, 
 and when you are ready to go out you go down 
 again, and between those times you are as much 
 alone as if you were in your own house. 
 
 There are two arrangements possible to 
 make about your meals. You may either order 
 what you like and the landlady will buy it, or 
 else you may agree to pay so much a day for 
 breakfast, luncheon, afternoon tea, and dinner ; 
 this latter plan is considerably less expensive, 
 besides saving the traveller trouble. 
 
 U.#0. 
 
100 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 In the lodgings which cost two guineas a 
 week, one shilling was charged to each person 
 for breakfast, a shilling and sixpence for lunch- 
 eon, sixpence for afternoon tea, and half-a- 
 crown for dinner, with no charge for any meal 
 if the lodgers gave notice beforehand that they 
 were not to be at home. This made the board 
 and lodging for two people cost about thirteen 
 dollars a week. 
 
 If you do not wish to go home for luncheon, 
 there are a great many restaurants in London 
 run by the Aerated Bread Company, known as 
 the " A.B.C.'s," which are fairly good and per- 
 fectly respectable ; a lady may go to one of 
 them alone with entire propriety. 
 
 The small hotels differ only from lodgings 
 in that they hold more people, usually anywhere 
 from twenty to forty. Families staying there 
 are also often served in their rooms, but there 
 is a general dining room, called a "coffee room," 
 in which you may have your meals at a little 
 table. Even in the larger hotels there is no 
 ladies' entrance, but only one door through 
 which men and women alike come and go ; nor 
 is there any office where cigars, newspapers, 
 theatre tickets, etc., are sold. 
 
 I do not know what there may or may not be 
 
ENGLAND 101 
 
 in the great hotels run chiefly for foreigners ; I 
 am speaking of the smaller ones in which ladies 
 travelling alone would naturally prefer to stay. 
 There is nothing corresponding to the Ameri- 
 can plan. There may be, and often is, a fixed 
 price for luncheon and dinner ; but you pay 
 when you take your meals in the hotel, and 
 not when you are out. The usual English 
 breakfast consists of tea, fried bacon or a bit 
 of fish, muffins, and marmalade or jam. You 
 may order coffee if you prefer it, but if you 
 want meat it is charged extra. For luncheon 
 there are several cold meats, all of them ex- 
 cellent ; you are given your choice of cold 
 beef, cold chicken, and cold ham, and there 
 are usually potatoes and some vegetable belong- 
 ing to the cabbage family. Salad and cheese 
 follow. If you are dependent on hot meat, 
 you must order it beforehand, and pay for it 
 extra. Tea and coffee are never drunk except 
 with the first meal in the morning and late in 
 the afternoon ; for luncheon and dinner almost 
 every one in England and on the Continent 
 takes either wine, spirits, ale, or mineral water. 
 Englishmen seem to be as dependent as women 
 on their afternoon tea, however, and in the 
 most out-of-the-way places it is easy to get. 
 
102 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 The day after you reach London you will 
 probably want to go to your banker's, to draw 
 some money. Take your letter of credit, which 
 is also your letter of introduction, and leave 
 your address so that the clerk may forward 
 any letters which come for you. If you expect 
 to spend some time in London, and also a good 
 deal of money, you may draw out a sum on 
 your letter of credit, and deposit it with the 
 banker, who will then give you a cheque-book, 
 and you may draw against your deposit. This 
 is sometimes done where you mean to make a 
 long stay, but for a short visit it is simpler to 
 draw what money you want, and pay your bills 
 in cash. 
 
 The method of getting money on your letter 
 of credit is simple and always the same. You 
 hand it to the clerk and say how much you 
 want ; he then, after a while, brings you a slip 
 of paper with the memorandum of the amount, 
 which you sign. Be careful to write your 
 name exactly as you have already done on 
 the letter of credit, as it is by the comparison 
 of the two signatures that the banker is able to 
 be sure that you are yourself. The memo- 
 randum is a receipt which he forwards to the 
 original banking-house, to show how much you 
 
ENGLAND 103 
 
 have drawn, and the sum is also marked on 
 your letter of credit ; in this way you can 
 always tell just how much you are spending. 
 
 Make it a rule not to draw much money at 
 any one time. It is troublesome to go to the 
 banker's, but much more so to be robbed, of 
 which there is ahvays a chance. 
 
 If there is any reason why you should call 
 at the American Embassy, it is proper to do 
 so within a day or two after your arrival, but 
 it is not a necessity. 
 
 Many Americans seem to think that ambassa- 
 dors are sent abroad in order to act as masters 
 of ceremonies to their fellow country people, 
 but this is an erroneous impression. Your am- 
 bassador will protect your rights if they should 
 be in any way threatened ; you are perfectly 
 justified in appealing to him if you are wrong- 
 fully arrested, if there is any attempt made to 
 extort money from you, or if you are unjustly 
 treated in any way ; but it is unreasonable to 
 expect that he shall get you invitations, or 
 even to think that he is bound to entertain you 
 himself. If you are in London on the Fourth 
 of July, the house of your ambassador will be 
 open to you as to all other Americans ; but if 
 you have not known him at home, you have 
 
104 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 no right to consider yourself slighted if you 
 are not invited to any other entertainment. 
 
 You will certainly soon want to go to some 
 shop where you may buy guide-books, maps, 
 etc. Either at Smith's, 63 Charing Cross, or 
 Stanford's, 26 Cockspur Street, among others, 
 you will find any amount of these, and can 
 choose just what you want, whether you intend 
 to bicycle, to visit the cathedral towns, to make 
 pilgrimages to historic spots, or, in fact, to do 
 anything for which you will need guides. It 
 is a great mistake to attempt, as some people 
 do, to get on without them, just as it is a mis- 
 take to avoid what are called "beaten paths." 
 Paths are beaten because they lead from one 
 interesting place to another, and the things 
 which are described in the guide-books are gen- 
 erally those best worth seeing. Vainglorious 
 souls who go through foreign galleries con- 
 vinced that they will be sure to find the most 
 remarkable pictures, will simply waste a great 
 deal of time over second-rate masters which 
 they might better have given to those who are 
 really great. 
 
 Your stock of guide-books may be limited 
 only by your capacity to take them about with 
 you. Baedeker is the traveller's maid-of-all- 
 
ENGLAND 105 
 
 work ; of it and Murray I have already spoken, 
 and there is at the end of this section a list 
 of some other books which you may find pleas- 
 ant and useful in England. 
 
 The sights of London are enough to last one 
 a lifetime, but there are some which may 
 almost be called obligatory, and among these is 
 Westminster Abbey. Sir Christopher Wren 
 did not improve it when he added towers in the 
 taste of his day, and the extraordinary collec- 
 tion of statues which throng its aisles and 
 nave is certainly not artistic as a whole, and 
 yet any one who cannot feel a very distinct 
 emotion when she first enters its doors is much 
 to be pitied. 
 
 The best time to go there is on Monday or 
 Tuesday, because those are free days. Of 
 course there is a crowd, but it is an exception- 
 ally well-behaved one, and yon may wander 
 about at your will and see as much as you 
 like, whereas on the other days when you 
 have to pay sixpence or a shilling you are 
 hurried along by a verger in about fifteen 
 minutes, and have no time to look at anything. 
 Hare's account of Westminster Abbey is fuller 
 than that given in either Murray or Baedeker, 
 and neither of them call attention, as he does, 
 
106 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 to one of the most curious sights to be seen 
 there. By paying threepence on Mondays and 
 Tuesdays, and on other days sixpence, you are 
 allowed to climb a steep, winding stair above 
 the Islip Chapel, and there in a little room are 
 the " Effigies," which are life-sized figures with 
 wax faces, once carried at the funerals of the 
 people whom they represent; eleven now re- 
 main, one of the most curious being that of 
 Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 You will also want to see the Houses of 
 Parliament, which are shown to strangers on 
 Saturdays when Parliament is sitting, and 
 oftener, I think, when it is not. The English 
 are individually and as a nation the greatest col- 
 lectors in the world, and the British Museum, 
 the South Kensington Museums, and the Na- 
 tional Gallery are worth all the time you can 
 possibly give them ; indeed, if you know the 
 last well you will have a very good idea of the 
 different schools of painting before you meet 
 the masters on their own ground in the Conti- 
 nental galleries. This talent for amassing and 
 classifying is not compatible with a sense of 
 dramatic effect, which the English rather de- 
 spise as an attribute of the Latin races, and the 
 consequence is that several of their grandest 
 
ENGLAND 107 
 
 monuments do not produce the impression 
 which they properly should. The Tower is a 
 striking instance of this ; before you go, and 
 after you come away, if you have any historical 
 sense you must be conscious of the accumula- 
 tion of history for which the great building 
 stands ; but while one follows the Beefeater 
 on his round one sees so many things, all 
 crowded together, some interesting and some 
 not, that it is hard to feel anything except 
 that one is accomplishing a duty. 
 
 If you are interested in human nature, learn 
 to watch the people of a place when they are 
 sight-seers, like yourself, for then they are 
 usually absorbed, and therefore unconscious 
 and natural ; the types which you will see at 
 the Tower, or in Westminster Abbey on a free 
 day, are entirely unlike those which you may 
 meet in a little while at the Invalides or in 
 Notre Dame. Let me repeat the advice I have 
 given already, not to spend too much time at a 
 stretch in a gallery or museum ; an hour and 
 a half or two hours should be the utmost limit 
 of the visit ; after that the brain becomes like 
 a soaked sponge, and, although you may think 
 you are noticing things, you will not remember 
 them. 
 
108 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Try to plan your going about so that you will 
 not waste more time than is necessary. London 
 is vast beyond comparison with any other city, 
 and unless you arrange your sight-seeing with 
 some sort of method, or your visits or errands, 
 whichever they may be, you will lose half your 
 day. 
 
 In making your list of sights, do not be 
 misled by the words " open daily," as that never 
 includes Sunday unless it is distinctly so stated; 
 many more places are now open than formerly, 
 but it is well to make sure before risking 
 an expedition. If you can get an order of 
 admission from a Fellow of the Zoological 
 Society, by all means go to its Gardens on a 
 Sunday afternoon, but they are absolutely 
 closed to the general public on that day. 
 
 London is rather dreary on Sundays, espe- 
 cially in the spring, and if possible you should 
 arrange to go to Hampton Court, Richmond, 
 the Crystal Palace, or somewhere else, as you 
 can. The disadvantage is that all trains are 
 crowded, but if you are willing to pay first- 
 class fare you will nearly always find plenty of 
 room. 
 
 Instead of going all the way to Hampton 
 Court by rail it is pleasant to take the train 
 
ENGLAND 109 
 
 to Richmond, and after landing there to hire 
 a rowboat and go the rest of the way by 
 water. From London to Richmond the Thames 
 has nothing to show but muddy banks, but from 
 Richmond to Hampton Court it is charming in 
 summer, and you will see the house-boats on 
 " the stream of pleasure," and the villas by the 
 shore. Then you can go back to Richmond 
 by a coach, and from there to London by 
 train or boat, or else you can go directly by 
 train from Hampton Court. 
 
 The excursion to Greenwich by the penny 
 boat is not in itself particularly attractive ; 
 but you get an effective view of part of the 
 water front of the monstrous city, and you 
 will probably be surrounded by a character- 
 istic though perfectly respectable crowd of 
 the lower class of Londoners. And if the next 
 Sunday after church, during the season, you 
 will take a chair at Hyde Park corner while 
 some of the handsomest men and women in 
 the world, belonging to the English upper 
 class, walk up and down, you can form a good 
 idea of the mighty strength of our common 
 race. The impression left in the traveller's 
 mind by London is that of power, as in Paris 
 it is of beauty, and in Rome of historic charm. 
 
110 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Whatever you do, try to avoid being in Lon- 
 don on a Bank Holiday, and if you must be 
 there do not try to go out of it. Some of 
 the Bank Holidays correspond with the festi- 
 vals of the calendar, such as Good Friday, 
 Easter Monday, Whit Monday, and Christmas 
 Day, but besides these the first Monday in 
 August is kept, and the day after Christmas, 
 always known in England as " Boxing Day," 
 because any one who has the slightest claim 
 on you (and many who have not) then expect 
 a small Christmas box, or tip. The Bank 
 Holiday which falls on the first Monday in 
 August may well take you unawares, because 
 we are not used to anything of the kind at 
 home, and if you attempt to go out of London 
 on that day you will find the experience more 
 curious than pleasing. Every railway is 
 crowded with trains almost touching each 
 other, each one jammed full of excursionists, 
 or, as they are called there, "trippers." It 
 seems as if London had emptied itself toward 
 any place of amusement at all accessible ; 
 there are few first-class carriages on the trains 
 because there would be few people to go in 
 them, and the roads are so crowded that you 
 are certain to be behind time. 
 
ENGLAND 111 
 
 The best and pleasantest way to see the streets 
 is to ride on the tops of the "busses." The 
 climb is formidable, but the guard is always 
 there to help you, and if you possibly can, try 
 to sit near the driver, who, if he is properly 
 approached, will give you any amount of infor- 
 mation, and loves to discourse. 
 
 London is covered with a network of omnibus 
 lines which are owned by private individuals, 
 and there is great rivalry among them. Do not 
 try to decide for yourself which one you want, 
 for there are myriads, each one so covered with 
 advertisements that it is almost impossible to 
 see from whence it comes or where it is going. 
 It seems strange to an American to find a 
 policeman always at hand, but they are in 
 London, and will cheerfully tell you which 
 omnibus to take. On Sundays many of these 
 are used for excursions into the country, and 
 you can often take little trips in this way for a 
 very small sum. 
 
 It is also almost incredible, but in Europe an 
 omnibus or tram will not stop for you when 
 it is already full. If you hail one in Lon- 
 don and there is no place either inside or out, 
 the driver takes no notice and the conductor 
 shakes his head. It is sometimes annoying to 
 
112 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 have two or three trundle past in this manner, 
 but that is made up for by the certainty of a 
 seat when at last one stops. 
 
 Cab fares in London are calculated at the rate 
 of one shilling for two miles, and sixpence for 
 every additional mile within the four mile 
 radius, which is reckoned from Charing Cross. 
 The fare for hansoms and four-wheelers is the 
 same. If you are in doubt as to how much 
 to give, look at your watch when you get in, 
 and pay at the rate of a penny a minute. 
 This will allow ten miles an hour, a rate at 
 which they never go, although they drive 
 fast, and therefore it is a perfectly safe esti- 
 mate. If you want to go for a long dis- 
 tance, any policeman will always tell you the 
 fare before you start. If you take a cab by the 
 hour, it is two and sixpence for the first hour 
 and two shillings an hour afterward, and if you 
 have a cabby for some time, it is usual to give 
 him a little more than his fare, but there is no 
 obligatory tip as on the Continent. No matter 
 how short a distance you drive, you never give 
 less than a shilling ; and if you take a cab from 
 one of the many stands which are everywhere 
 in London, the man at the head of the line has a 
 right to be hailed first, because each cabby, as he 
 
ENGLAND 113 
 
 comes back, takes his place at the end of the file, 
 and thus moves up gradually. There is noth- 
 ing to prevent your choosing any cab in the 
 rank, if the horse in the first cab seems poor 
 or tired ; but other things being equal, it is 
 well to be fair. The horses in hansoms are 
 usually better than those in four-wheelers, and 
 the cabbies more amiable, and they certainly 
 drive faster. 
 
 There is no city in the world in which it is so 
 easy for ladies to go about in the evening as in 
 London. When you are ready to leave your 
 hotel or lodgings, tell the servant at the door 
 whether you want a hansom or a four-wheeler ; 
 he or she will then blow a little whistle — twice 
 for the former and once for the latter — and in a 
 moment they will seem to spring up from the 
 ground like boys at an accident. Sometimes 
 two or three of them converge toward the 
 sound, and the shrill blast is one of the most 
 characteristic of modern London street noises. 
 
 (There is only one time in the week when 
 this does not hold good, and that is on Sunday 
 morning between nine o'clock and noon, when 
 you may whistle in vain, and if you are going 
 out of town it is well to order one from the 
 nearest stand the day before.) 
 
114 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 London cabbies are a very decent lot, but it 
 is as well to ask before you leave your lodgings 
 how much you should pay when you get to 
 your friend's house, or to the theatre. Have 
 your change ready, especially if you are going 
 to the play, as there will be no time at the door 
 for discussion ; and, when you come out, tell 
 the " commissionaire" on duty at the theatre, 
 who is usually a retired soldier, that you want 
 a hansom, or if it is wet a four-wheeler, and he 
 will produce one for you in a moment, for which 
 you give him threepence. Of course it is im- 
 possible to guarantee that nothing will ever 
 happen to you, but, as a matter of fact, any 
 annoyance is very rare, as each cab has its 
 number plainly displayed, and the cabby knows 
 that he would meet with but short shrift at the 
 nearest police court if he annoyed you. You 
 pay a little more after night than you do in 
 the daytime, although it is not obligatory 
 before midnight. 
 
 If you chance to leave anything in a cab, 
 you can almost always get it again by apply- 
 ing at the police headquarters in Scotland 
 Yard. 
 
 Ladies can go without a gentleman to any 
 respectable theatre in London, as at home, but 
 
ENGLAND 115 
 
 if you sit in the stalls, wliicli correspond to 
 the orchestra with us, you must be in evening 
 dress, which means anything from a ball gown 
 to a pretty blouse. The custom of dressing 
 for dinner is universal among the upper classes 
 in England, and the play often takes up merely 
 a part of their evening, as they go on to some 
 other entertainment later, therefore it is not 
 uncommon to see a woman as much dressed as 
 if she were in a box at the opera in America; 
 but, on the other hand, you can go perfectly 
 well as you would to a small dinner at home, 
 but always with nothing on your head. There 
 is a room provided in which you may leave 
 your bonnet if you have worn one, but most 
 English women go without. At the smartest 
 theatres now, especially if their proprietors 
 have been in America, the programmes are 
 given free; but in some of the older ones you 
 are expected to pay a trifle, usually threepence, 
 and if you leave hats or cloaks you give the 
 attendant sixpence for the party when you get 
 them again. 
 
 If you happen to be passing a theatre to 
 which you want to go, it is usually not hard to 
 get good seats at the box-office, but if it is out 
 of the way you will save trouble by ordering 
 
116 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 them from one of the agents who sell them at 
 a slight advance, as with us. Mitchell, 33 Old 
 Bond Street, and Keith and Prowse, who have 
 several offices, are among the best known of 
 these agents, but there are many more. The 
 price for stalls is usually ten shillings and six- 
 pence, and for the dress circle six and sixpence, 
 which is dearer than in America or France; 
 stalls at the opera are a guinea, and if you 
 have a chance to go on a " gala night " do not 
 miss it, as the beauty and the jewels of the 
 English women are unrivalled. 
 
 As it rains intermittently in London, and the 
 streets are consequently often covered with a 
 thin coating of sticky mud, the crossing sweeper 
 is a regular institution. Some of these men 
 occupy the same posts for many years, and are 
 known to every resident of the neighbourhood, 
 and it is usual to give them a penny or two 
 every now and then as one passes, for they are 
 not considered exactly as beggars, and their 
 services are very useful if one wishes to keep 
 one's shoes neat. 
 
 It is not necessary to give details regarding 
 the English post-office, as the officials are ex- 
 tremely polite and will tell you anything you 
 want to know. The parcel post is very con- 
 
ENGLAND 117 
 
 venient, and you can send almost anything 
 anywhere, provided it is not more than three 
 feet six inches long, and does not weigh more 
 than eleven pounds. This service takes the 
 place of our express companies. 
 
 With regard to shopping, there are half a 
 dozen great establishments, one as good as the 
 other, where you can get almost anything that 
 a woman is likely to want in the way of clothes; 
 and English hosiery, although more expensive 
 than that made on the Continent, certainly 
 wears longer. All these large shops have 
 " summer sales " in July, and it is worth while 
 to take advantage of these if you do not mind a 
 crowd. They are not bargain sales for pur- 
 poses of advertisement, but part of the regular 
 routine of the year, and stuffs of all kinds may 
 often be bought for not more than half their 
 actual value. Marshall and Snelgrove's at one 
 end of New Bond Street, Lewis and Allenby's, 
 Swan and Edgar's, and Howell and James's, in 
 Regent Street, and Peter Robinson's, in Oxford 
 Street, are among the best known of these large 
 shops. Jay's, in Regent Street, is the great 
 " mourning warehouse," and not far off, in the 
 same street, is Liberty's, its windows shining 
 like rainbows with silks and gauze. 
 
118 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 The shops in New Bond Street are said to be 
 more expensive than any others ; next comes 
 Regent, and then Oxford Street, which is natu- 
 ral enough, as New Bond Street is the fashion- 
 able shopping centre of the West End. Prices 
 fall with shop rents, as one goes further away 
 from it in any direction, and if you want to 
 save your pennies you must keep your eyes 
 open and compare the price tickets in one win- 
 dow with those in another. Do not be be- 
 guiled, however, into going into small shops, 
 unless you know of them from English friends, 
 because the goods are usually more expensive 
 than those in the large ones ; this only applies, 
 of course, to what is known as "haberdashery," 
 Some years ago a number of people who were 
 dissatisfied with the high prices charged by 
 retail dealers, formed a joint stock association 
 to supply goods to its members at moderate 
 prices, for ready money payments, and the plan 
 was such a success that there are now more 
 than thirty of these associations in London, the 
 largest being the Army and Navy Cooperative 
 Stores, 105 Victoria Street, Westminster, the 
 origin of which is shown by its name. Each 
 member has a number which is changed each 
 year, and has the privilege of lending the use 
 
ENGLAND 119 
 
 of this number to his or her friends. By this 
 means the sales of the association are increased, 
 and as cash must be paid for everything it 
 runs no risk of loss, so you are not putting 
 yourself under too great an obligation if you 
 ask any English person of your acquaintance 
 who is a member, if you may use his or her 
 number. 
 
 You will probably have noticed the great 
 number of dogs which follow their masters and 
 mistresses everywhere in London ; they are not 
 allowed in the " stores " where they would be a 
 nuisance on account of the crowd, and a special 
 commissionnaire is always on duty at the door 
 to take charge of them while their owners are 
 inside. If you are fond of animals you will 
 find the little group which is always there an 
 interesting sight ; there is the anxious dog, who 
 is not sure he will ever see his divinity again ; 
 the vain one, who is delighted to be admired by 
 people going in and out; and the philosopher, 
 who has been there often before and knows it 
 is all in the day's work. 
 
 The establishment is like one of our depart- 
 ment stores, but larger, I think, than any of 
 them. 
 
 What you do is this : When you have found 
 
120 ETJBOPEAN TRAVEL FOK WOMEN 
 
 your way to the corner of the great building in 
 which is whatever you have come to buy, 
 whether it be stationery, trunks, biscuits, or 
 medicine, you choose what suits you, and are 
 then taken to a cashier's desk, where you give 
 your friend's number, name, and address, as she 
 is supposed to be the buyer. You pay for your 
 purchase, and if possible take it home with you ; 
 if it is too big to carry you give your own name 
 and address, after that of your friend, and it 
 will be sent home to you, a small charge being 
 made for delivery. The whole system is ab- 
 solutely on a cash basis, which accounts for the 
 large dividends paid by these companies to their 
 stockholders. If you are not able to have the 
 use of a number at the Army and Navy Stores, 
 by applying to the secretary of the Civil Service 
 Cooperative Society, 28 Haymarket, and stating 
 that you are an American, a complimentary 
 season ticket and number for that one will be 
 given you without charge. 
 
 It is very convenient to be able to buy so 
 many different sorts of things under one roof, 
 but in fairness to the retail shops, of which the 
 "stores" are formidable rivals, I should say that 
 I have not found prices at the latter noticeably 
 lower for an equally high class of goods, nor 
 
ENGLAND 121 
 
 can you as a rule get anything particularly fine 
 of its kind. 
 
 There are also stores throughout London 
 which are conducted on private capital, like 
 our own, where you may buy without any for- 
 mality or restriction ; among these Whiteley's 
 and Har rod's are very well known, and there 
 you will find almost any imaginable thing, from 
 marketing to diamond ornaments. 
 
 English women live so much in the country 
 that everything adapted for out-of-door exer- 
 cise, such as dogskin gloves, waterproof capes, 
 and all bicycle supplies, can be got better in 
 London than in Paris. 
 
 If you stay for a fortnight in a quiet English 
 hotel or lodgings, it will be fair to give the 
 waiter ten shillings and the chambermaid seven 
 and sixpence ; the boy who has opened the 
 door and run errands, three shillings, and half- 
 a-crown to the " boots," who corresponds to the 
 porter on the Continent. No rule can be ab- 
 solute. A certain amount is expected, and if 
 you give more trouble than the usual traveller 
 to any particular servant you must recognize it 
 accordingly. For instance, if, during your stay, 
 the boy whose business it is to open the front 
 door has been perpetually running up and down 
 
122 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 stairs with parcels, notes, cards, etc., he will 
 deserve more than if he has not been so active ; 
 if you were ill in your room, and the chamber- 
 maid had to wait on you, she, on the other hand, 
 ought to have more than if you have been out 
 all day. One difference between England and 
 the Continent is that no man-servant ever comes 
 into a lady's bedroom in an English hotel or 
 lodgings. If you breakfast upstairs, the waiter 
 carries the tray to your door, and the chamber- 
 maid takes it from him there and brings it in. 
 
 These are about the tips which would be 
 expected if you should make a visit at a pri- 
 vate house where only maid-servants are kept: — 
 
 From Saturday till Monday 
 
 Parlour maid .... Half-a-crown 
 
 Housemaid Two shillings 
 
 Boy Two shillings 
 
 You only tip the upper housemaid, unless the 
 
 under housemaid has waited on or packed for 
 
 you — in that case you give her two shillings 
 
 also. 
 
 For a Week 
 
 Parlour maid .... Five shillings 
 
 Housemaid , . . . . Five shillings 
 
 Boy Two shillings 
 
 Coachman Half-a-crown 
 
ENGLAND 123 
 
 If he has fetched you from the station, or 
 driven you without his mistress — if he has had 
 no trouble on your account, you need not tip 
 him. 
 
 In houses where men-servants are kept : — 
 
 From Saturday till Monday 
 
 Butler Half-a-crown 
 
 Housemaid Half-a-crown 
 
 For a Week 
 
 Butler Five shillings 
 
 Housemaid Five shillings 
 
 Coachman (if he has done anything for you) Five shillings 
 
 This scale is enough either for one or two 
 persons from Saturday till Monday, but if two 
 people stay a week, the butler and upper house- 
 maid should each have ten shillings. 
 
 The fees for doctors and dentists vary with 
 the quarters of the town in which they practise. 
 If you wish to consult a distinguished special- 
 ist, you should write him a note saying that 
 you wish to call on him, which he will answer 
 by one telling you his office hours, during 
 which you go to his house, send in your card, 
 and await your turn. Have an envelope ready 
 in which are two sovereigns and two shillings, 
 if it is your first visit, as the usual fee is two 
 
124 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN- 
 
 guineas for the first consultation and one for 
 each visit after that. When you have finished 
 your consultation, put the envelope quietly 
 down on the table and go away. If you have 
 to go back again, the process is repeated with 
 one guinea ; but if the physician attends you at 
 your lodgings or hotel, he sends his bill when 
 you are better, as he would at home. You can 
 perfectly well ask a dentist what his charges 
 are before being treated. 
 
 A word about things which it is well not to 
 do. Do not try to walk anywhere in the 
 streets of London at night, unless it should be 
 in some absolutely quiet square. In the neigh- 
 bourhood of the theatres, it is impossible for 
 ladies if they are alone, and unpleasant if they 
 are with gentlemen. Leicester Square and the 
 adjoining streets have a large foreign popula- 
 tion, and it is not usual for young girls to go 
 there much, or, if they do, it should be in the 
 mornings. The same applies to the Strand, 
 which, in the late afternoon, has a decidedly 
 mixed class of passengers. Between Burling- 
 ton Street and Piccadilly there is a short pas- 
 sage known as the Burlington Arcade, which 
 is filled with little shops where all sorts of lux- 
 uries are sold. This is a convenient short cut 
 
ENGLAND 126 
 
 between the two streets and is always crowded ; 
 but it is better for young girls, especially if they 
 are striking looking, to do their shopping there 
 in the morning, as in the late afternoon women 
 often walk there for whom they would not care 
 to be mistaken. 
 
 If I were asked by any one who had very 
 little time to spend, how she could best get an 
 impression of England, I should advise her to 
 go first to London, and form an idea of its 
 vastness by going about on omnibuses ; to 
 visit Westminster Abbey, which is an epitome 
 of English history in stone ; to go to Windsor, 
 in order to see one of the best of the great 
 English parks; and to run down, if only for a 
 day, to Oxford or Cambridge. 
 
 If you have more time to spend in either of 
 them, during the terms of the Universities, it is 
 interesting to catch a glimpse of the under- 
 graduate life, which, of course, is all you can 
 do ; but during the long vacation you are freer 
 to go over the colleges and gardens at your 
 leisure, and you may also find very comfortable 
 accomodations in what are known (at Oxford 
 at least) as licensed lodging-houses, which are 
 those in which the students are allowed by the 
 authorities to live when they have not rooms 
 
126 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 in the colleges themselves. The arrangement 
 seems to be that when the students are not 
 there in the summer the landlady is allowed 
 to rent their rooms, which are often well fur- 
 nished and very homelike. The board in them 
 is about eight or ten shillings a day for each 
 person, which includes all meals. 
 
 I have made a list of a few books about 
 England, some of which you may like to read, 
 but it is not possible within the narrow limits 
 of these pages even to indicate what you may 
 see if you have time and inclination. If you 
 love the old country, — which you will find oiit 
 after you have been there a few days, — in 
 every corner there will be something to attract 
 you, and you will feel that nowhere else do sea 
 and sky "so inclose Infinite riches in a little 
 room." 
 
 SOME BOOKS ABOUT GREAT BRITAIN 
 
 A star (*) means that a book is of portable size, and useful 
 for local reference. 
 
 T. means that it is published in the Tauchnitz edition. 
 
 *A Trip to England, Goldwin Smith. Macmillan. 
 Shakespeare's England, W. Winter. Macmillan. 
 Gray Days and Gold, W. Winter. Macmillan. 
 *Walks in London, A. J. C. Hare. Macmillan. 
 Literary Landmarks of London, L. Hutton. Harper. 
 Domestic Architecture in England (4 vols.), T.H. Turner. 
 Parker. 
 
ENGLAND 127 
 
 *A Handbook to the English Cathedrals, M. G. Van 
 Rensselaer. Scribner. 
 
 Bell's Cathedral Series (monographs by different authors). 
 Macmillan. 
 
 *Cathedral Churches of England and Wales, W. J. Loftie. 
 Stanford. 
 
 London City Churches, A. E. Daniell. Archibald Con- 
 stable. 
 
 Memorials of Westminster Abbey, Dean Stanley. Mac- 
 millan. 
 
 ♦Deanery Guide to Westminster Abbey. Pall Mall 
 Gazette. 
 
 ♦Handbook to the National Gallery, E. T. Cook. Mac- 
 millan. 
 
 ♦South Kensington Museum Art Handbooks (monographs 
 on the arts and art industries). Chapman Hall. 
 
 London, W. Besant. Harper. 
 
 Historical Memorials of Canterbury, Dean Stanley. Ran- 
 dolph. 
 
 Portraits of Places (partly in England). Henry James. T. 
 
 Historic Towns Series. Longmans. 
 
 Great Public Schools Series. Arnold. 
 
 The Inns of Court and Chancery, W. J. Loftie. 
 Macmillan. 
 
 Memorable London Houses, W. Harrison. Scribner. 
 
 The Story of Ireland, E. Lawless. Putnam. 
 
 The Story of Scotland, J. Mackintosh. Putnam. 
 
 Litei-ary Landmarks of Edinburgh, L. Hutton. Harper. 
 
 Royal Edinburgh, Mrs. Oliphant. Macmillan. 
 
 A FEW NOVELS 
 
 Eleventh Century 
 
 Harold Bulwer Lytton. T. 
 
 Hereward the Wake Charles Kingsley. T. 
 
128 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Twelfth Century 
 
 Ivanhoe Walter Scott. T. 
 
 Court Life under the Plantagenets . . Hubert Hall. 
 
 Thirteenth Century 
 Brakespeare G. A. Lawrence. 
 
 Fourteenth Century 
 
 The White Company A. Conan Doyle. T. 
 
 Fifteenth Century 
 
 Last of the Barons Bulwer Lytton. T. 
 
 Chantry Priest of Barnet A. J. Church. 
 
 The Black Arrow R. L. Stevenson. T. 
 
 Sixteenth Century 
 
 The Abbot (Scotland) Walter Scott. T. 
 
 The Household of Sir Thomas More . Anne Manning. 
 
 Kenilworth (Warwickshire) .... Walter Scott. T. 
 
 Westward Ho ! (Devonshire) . . Charles Kingsley. T. 
 
 Seventeenth Century 
 
 Lorna Doone (Devonshire) . . . B. D. Blackmore. T. 
 
 Holmby House (Northamptonshire) Whyte Melville, T. 
 
 Peveril of the Peak (Derbyshire) . . Walter Scott. T. 
 
 Woodstock (Oxfordshire) .... Walter Scott. T. 
 
 The Draytons and the Davenants Elizabeth Charles. T. 
 
 Eighteenth Century 
 
 Heart of Mid-Lothian (Edinburgh) . Walter Scott. T. 
 
 Esmond W. M. Thackeray. T. 
 
 Vicar of Wakefield Oliver Goldsmith. T. 
 
 Nineteenth Century 
 
 Three Feathers (Cornwall) . . . William Black. T. 
 
 A Princess of Thule (The Hebrides) William Black. T. 
 
 The Deemster (Isle of Man) .... Hall Caine. T. 
 
 Cranford (Knutsford) Mrs. Gaskell. T. 
 
 Irish Idylls Jaue Barlow. 
 
FRANCE 
 
 « 
 
 French money is puzzling in a different way 
 from the English. It is easier for us, in that it 
 is decimal, but the people obstinately continue 
 to speak of it as if it were not. For instance, 
 five centimes make one sou, and a hundred 
 centimes or twenty sous one franc, but the 
 average French person counts by nothing but 
 the sous. The silver piece of fifty centimes is, 
 of course, half a franc, but in nine cases out of 
 ten he will call it "ten sous," or say twenty 
 sous instead of a franc. 
 
 The French sou corresponds about to the 
 American cent, and two of them to the English 
 penny. The two-sous piece is considerably larger 
 than the single one, and there are no other cop- 
 per coins ; the smallest silver coin is for fifty 
 centimes, corresponding to our ten-cent piece. 
 Then come the franc and two-franc pieces, and 
 there is also the five-franc piece, which is about 
 the size of our silver dollar and is commonly 
 
130 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 spoken of as a " piece de cent sous." The small- 
 est gold piece is for ten francs, and tlie piece of 
 twenty francs is commonly known as a " louis " 
 or sometimes as a "napoleon," although the 
 head of the Republic has adorned it for the 
 last thirty years. 
 
 Here is a table of these values: — 
 
 French. American. 
 
 One sou = One cent. 
 
 Fifty centimes ) ^ 
 
 , T . \ = Ten cents, 
 
 (ten sous) J 
 
 One franc = Twenty cents. 
 
 Five francs ) ^ , „ 
 
 , , , , . V = One dollar. 
 (a hundred sous) J 
 
 Ten francs = Two dollars. 
 
 Twenty francs 1 ^ , ,, 
 
 , , . - > = Four dollars, 
 (a louis) J 
 
 The French and English customs authorities 
 have under consideration an arrangement by 
 which branches of the French custom-house are 
 to be established at Charing Cross and Victoria 
 stations, and luggage examined and passed by 
 a French official. This would be most conven- 
 ient, and you might inquire whether it has 
 been done. 
 
 You may buy your ticket through by what- 
 ever line you choose from London to Paris, and 
 it may be third or second class by rail, and first 
 
FBANCE 131 
 
 class on the Channel steamer, which last is 
 advisable, as the second-class quarters are not 
 good. Your luggage may also be registered 
 through from London to Paris. 
 
 If you go by Dover and Calais, which is 
 the shorter crossing, there is always time for 
 breakfast, or rather luncheon, at the latter 
 place, where the railway buffet is famous for 
 good things to eat. ^ 
 
 While you are still on the boat, as you are 
 nearing the coast of France, a custom-house offi- 
 cial comes round politely asking for your keys, 
 and your hand luggage is examined then and 
 the larger pieces at Amiens. 
 
 The radical dissimilarity between English and 
 French people makes itself felt the moment you 
 touch French soil, and if you have never been 
 out of the sound of your own language, the first 
 few moments are rather bewildering. Although 
 stolid compared to Italian porters, the French 
 ones seem exceedingly mercurial after the Eng- 
 lish, and, unless you are careful, three or four 
 of them will get hold of your hand luggage, and 
 each will of course expect a tip. 
 
 From the moment you set foot on shore re- 
 member that you have come to a country where 
 the little amenities of life make much more 
 
132 EUEOPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 difference than in the one you have just left, 
 or than they do at home. 
 
 A lady will be courteous to every one out of 
 self-respect, but effusiveness of manner is not 
 thought in England to be an attraction, and by 
 some classes of people, as I have hinted before, 
 it may be misunderstood. In France and Italy, 
 on the other hand, and to some extent in Ger- 
 man^(although there the Teutonic reserve 
 comes in again), the more gracious and polite 
 you are to every one the more you will have 
 done for you. You will naturally notice the 
 general use of " monsieur " and " madame " 
 among people of every station in life. 
 
 In England this marks a distinct difference 
 in rank ; ladies and gentlemen only say "sir" 
 and "ma'am" to persons of the blood royal. 
 Once across the Channel, however, you can 
 scarcely be too generous with this trifling com- 
 pliment ; and its frequent omission by the Eng- 
 lish, which is natural enough, gives rise to one 
 of the grudges which the French have against 
 them. As a general rule, any woman is safe 
 in addressing another woman, whether duchess 
 or apple-seller, as " madame," and any man may 
 be called " monsieur " unless he is a waiter, or 
 a porter, when the proper word, while he is at 
 
FRANCE 133 
 
 his work, is " gargon," or " boy." The young 
 girl who brings home your bonnet is "made- 
 moiselle," and so far as your personal comfort 
 and convenience are concerned you had better 
 be rude to a friend than forget to say " Bon- 
 jour, monsieur," or "madame," to the portier or 
 concierge and his wife as you go in or out of 
 your hotel or apartment, as if you do thev will 
 forget to send up the notes or parcels of a Jp^er 
 with so little manners. The expression " s'il 
 vous plait," which is the equivalent of our 
 "please," is not so much used as in Eng- 
 lish ; " voulez-vous bien," which is the equiva- 
 lent of our " will you kindly," is a more com- 
 mon form, or you may simply give your order 
 in so many words, but always in a pleasant 
 tone. 
 
 But it is time to be starting for Paris ; the 
 " conducteur " has cried out " En voiture, mes- 
 sieurs!" in a cheery way which his British 
 brother would consider very undignified. 
 
 One great difference between English and 
 Continental railways is that in England men 
 are not supposed to smoke except in certain car- 
 riages, while in France it is allowed in all unless 
 the fellow-passengers object. There are also, 
 on the Continent, railway carriages set apart 
 
134 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 for ''dames seules" or "signore sole" (ladies 
 only), into which gentlemen are not admitted 
 at all, and you may always ask the porter who 
 has charge of your hand luggage to find you 
 such a carriage. If your party can manage to 
 be alone in one it is very convenient; but 
 French trains are much more crowded than 
 Engy|h ones, and you run the chance of being 
 shuPPp with two or three stout old ladies who 
 will take up a great deal of room, and are 
 sure to object vehemently to any fresh air. 
 The express trains from Calais or Boulogne 
 to Paris are nearly always especially full, and 
 your party will be fortunate if you all find 
 seats together. 
 
 The rule for one terminal station is the same 
 for all. As the train slackens its speed, open 
 your window, put your head out, and beckon 
 for a porter. There is no distinct name for him 
 in France as there is in other countries, and a 
 sign is usually enough, but if you must call 
 him anything, " gargon " will do, as I have 
 said. 
 
 As a general rule, never go anywhere with- 
 out having written or telegraphed ahead for 
 rooms to whichever hotel you mean to go. By 
 so doing you insure an omnibus being sent to 
 
FEANCE 135 
 
 the station to meet you, and the man who comes 
 with it will attend to your luggage. 
 
 The French custom-houses are more fussy 
 than those in England. There seems to be a 
 small duty on a great many things, but after 
 all the chief object of their search is spirits or 
 tobacco, and a lady is not likely to have much 
 annoyance. * 
 
 If no omnibus meets you, and you drive off 
 from the station in a cab, with your luggage 
 on top of it, or beside the driver, which is what 
 people generally do, before long, you may very 
 likely see a man trotting alongside and try- 
 ing to keep up with your vehicle. If he is 
 evidently following you, it means that he is 
 a poor wretch dependent upon odd jobs for 
 a living, and he is taking a long run on the 
 chance that when you get to your destination 
 there may be no one to carry up your trunk, 
 and you will therefore employ him. Unless 
 this is likely to be the case, it is cruel to let him 
 have his exertion for nothing, and you had bet- 
 ter put your head out of the window and shake 
 it, and also move the uplifted forefinger of your 
 right hand to and fro. That is the universal 
 sign of negation on the Continent, and is under- 
 stood by everybody, especially by the confrater- 
 
136 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 nity of beggars. If they pester you, and follow 
 you about, and decline to take " No " for an 
 answer, only waggle your finger at them long 
 enough, and they will give it up and go away. 
 
 The drawback of sending word beforehand to 
 an hotel is apt to be that the proprietor or man- 
 ager takes the chance of your being rich, and 
 therefore reserves for you rooms which cost 
 more than you wish to pay ; but you are not 
 obliged to take them, and may ask to see those 
 which are less expensive. The prices of hotels 
 in Paris vary greatly according to their locality 
 and the class of people who go to them. In the 
 neighbourhood of the Place Vendome there is 
 every sort of cosmopolitan luxury and a corre- 
 spondingly exalted scale of charges ; but even if 
 you can afford to go there it is a pity to do so 
 if you want to see anything of French people, 
 for at some seasons of the year one actually 
 hears as much English as French spoken in the 
 streets. 
 
 There are, of course, as in London, many 
 small, quiet hotels where one may be perfectly 
 comfortable, but which are not so splendid. 
 
 When you drive up to the door, you will 
 be received by the manager, who will show 
 you your rooms. The manager of any hotel fre- 
 
FRANCE 137 
 
 quented by travellers always speaks English, and 
 so does the " portier," a magnificent being who 
 must not be confused with the porter. After 
 your first arrival, you may not see the manager 
 again until you go, but the " portier," who has a 
 little den by the front door, is your best friend; 
 he changes your money, sells you postage- 
 stamps, and has at his fingers' ends the railway 
 time-tables. He is usually a most obliging 
 person, and well entitled to his tip when you 
 leave. I have said that he is an authority 
 about time-tables, but this does not always 
 apply to small cross-country lines. He will tell 
 you in a moment when the express trains for any 
 part of Europe leave or arrive ; but if you want 
 to take slow trains, in order to be able to stop 
 over at small places, and are clever at puzzles, 
 you will sometimes be able to work out a route 
 after he has assured you that the thing cannot 
 possibly be done, whereat you will feel a glow 
 of triumph unless you are, like Marjorie 
 Fleming's mother-turkey, "more than usual 
 calm." 
 
 In most of the hotels on the Continent it is 
 possible, if you stay more than a few days, 
 to make an arrangement which corresponds 
 really to boarding — that is, you go " en 
 
138 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 pension," and if you are to be two or three 
 weeks in a place it has great advantages, for 
 you know exactly what you are spending. 
 Suppose that you have been given the address 
 of one of the small hotels of which I speak ; 
 when you get there look at the rooms, and if 
 they suit you say to the proprietor or manager 
 that you wish to stay for about such a length 
 of time, and then settle with him the amount 
 per day which you shall pay. This includes 
 your coffee, rolls, and butter in your room 
 in the morning, your second breakfast or " de- 
 jeuner," which may be taken in the general 
 dining room or in your "salon" if you have 
 one, and the evening dinner. If you are served 
 in your own rooms, it is extra, and the wine 
 or mineral water at meals, and an egg or 
 omelet with your coffee, or baths, or a lamp, 
 are extra also, and in winter firewood, an im- 
 portant item. You are not bound to stay if 
 you are not comfortable, and if you have many 
 friends with whom you expect to dine, living 
 "en pension" is not a saving, as you must 
 pay for your meals whether you are there or 
 not, but for women travelling quietly it is an 
 excellent plan. 
 
 Hotels which are willing to take lodgers on 
 
FRAKCE 139 
 
 these terms must not be confused v/ith the 
 ''pensions," which are simply our boarding- 
 houses. Of these there are any number in 
 Paris, and they vary at least as much as their 
 fellows at home. You cannot be too careful 
 about going to one of them unless you know all 
 about it from a friend whom you can trust, but 
 many are entirely unobjectionable, and it is in 
 them that the majority of the women live who 
 come abroad for serious study of any kind, 
 whether in Paris, or in other European cities. 
 As to the relative expenses of different parts 
 of Paris, I have already spoken of the Place 
 Vendome and the Rue de la Paix ; then there 
 is the " American Quarter," near the Arc de 
 I'Etoile, in which prices are also high, although 
 there are hotels and pensions in quiet side 
 streets where one may be comfortable without 
 paying exorbitantly. This neighbourhood has 
 the advantage of being on higher ground than 
 most of the older districts, and as it is of recent 
 growth, the sanitary arrangements are better, 
 for which reasons I advise you to try it if you 
 have a delicate person in your party, or a young 
 girl. Many people like the "rive gauche," or 
 left bank of the Seine, and in some of the hotels 
 there one may be very comfortable at a moder- 
 
140 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 ate price, but it is rather out of the way, and 
 the old paved streets are very iiois}^ By the 
 way, when you are looking for rooms in a Euro- 
 pean hotel, notice whether it is on the side of a 
 hill, and if so, ask whether it is on an omnibus 
 route ; those heavy vehicles have strong brakes, 
 which are used freely on any declivity, and the 
 consequent strident screech is exceedingly dis- 
 agreeable. 
 
 With regard to prices, these are variable, as 
 in London ; on general principles you will pay 
 from eight to fifteen francs a day at a quiet 
 hotel, the difference depending somewhat on 
 the position of your room, and the length of 
 your stay; while board and lodging at a pension 
 are anywhere from a liundred and fifty to four 
 hundred francs a month. If you have no 
 friends in Paris, it would not be a bad plan to 
 stop over night at one of the large hotels which 
 are near each railway station, as the faithful 
 Baedeker will tell you, and go next morning to 
 the American Girls' Club at 4 Rue Chevreuse, 
 in the famous Latin Quarter, where you will 
 surely be told what you had better do. This 
 club was started for the use of American stu- 
 dents, and there is a restaurant where any 
 woman can go, the prices being kept as low as 
 
FRANCE 141 
 
 possible. Tea is served in the afternoons, and 
 every American woman is welcomed, while in 
 summer, when there are but few students, rooms 
 are rented very cheap. 
 
 Nothing which may be said about Parisian 
 prices holds good in an exhibition year, when 
 you may consider yourself exceptionally lucky 
 if you only have to pay twice as much as in 
 ordinary times. Paris, during one of these 
 shows, bears the same relation to her usual self 
 that a private household does when it is turned 
 upside down by some entertainment, like a big 
 wedding, which strains its resources to the ut- 
 most. There are always a great many interest- 
 ing things to see, and supposing you have the 
 chance to go you will be foolish not to take it ; 
 but if you have never been in Paris before do 
 not make up your mind about her offhand. 
 The cabbies are all cross, and the horses are all 
 tired ; the theatres are so crowded that you can 
 hardly get a seat ; and if you go to a restaurant 
 you must Avait an interminable time for a bad 
 dinner. This is the reverse of a shining shield. 
 Every exhibition has a special and ephemeral 
 literature of its own, quite out of the scope of 
 ordinary guide-books, and one of the best vol- 
 umes recently issued seems to be the " Anglo- 
 
142 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 American Guide," published by Heinemann in 
 London, Hachette in Paris, and Stokes in New 
 York. 
 
 One of the first things to learn on the Con- 
 tinent is that its ideas differ widely from those 
 of Great Britain and America as to what are 
 known as " the rights of the individual," and 
 this is especially the case in France. In Eng- 
 land, or Avith us, if there is an accident in the 
 street, you are supposed to be in the right until 
 it is proved that 3'ou are in the wrong ; but the 
 exact contrary holds in France and other Con- 
 tinental countries. If you are nearly run over 
 in Paris, the man who has done it, instead of 
 apologizing, will begin to scold you, and if you 
 apply to a policeman he will tell you that you 
 are very lucky not to be worse off and that it 
 was all your own fault. This is somewhat 
 bewildering at first, but you must get used to it, 
 and remember that it is your place to dodge the 
 cabs and carriages in the streets, not theirs to 
 look out for you. 
 
 If you leave anything in a cab, your only 
 redress is to go after it to the Prefecture of 
 Police, below the cathedral of Notre Dame ; 
 but unless the object is very valuable it is 
 scarcely worth while to take so much trouble. 
 
PEANCE 143 
 
 Your chance of recovering it is slight, even if 
 yoa have the number of the cab, as the man 
 may assert that he never saw what you have 
 come to claim, and the authorities seem always 
 to take his part. 
 
 Cabs in Paris are either victorias or ram- 
 shackle coupes, and the cabbies not nearly 
 so civil as those in London. There are plenty 
 of stands, but, if you are wise, you will not 
 take a cab from one of them, because after 
 you have started, you may find the horse 
 lame or tired out. The better way is to 
 walk along quietly after you leave your hotel, 
 watching, without seeming to do so, the various 
 cabs creeping along in search of a fare; then, 
 when you see one with a decent horse and man, 
 hold up your finger, and he will immediately 
 come. If you give the cabby an address only 
 as you get in, when you get to your destina- 
 tion you must pay him and let him go. That 
 is a "course," and for it he is entitled to a 
 franc and a half, and also a "pourboire" — 
 this last as obligatory as the fare. For a 
 short " Course " French people usually give 
 three sous, but foreigners, especially Ameri- 
 cans, are always expected to give more. I 
 usually give five sous "pourboire" for an 
 
144 EUEOPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 ordinarily long " course." The aggregate 
 amount in pennies between a small " pourboire " 
 and a large one is not very great, and it is 
 worth something to have one's cabby pleasant. 
 If you wish to keep the cab for several errands, 
 you must say " a I'heure " when you engage 
 him, and if it is near the time when he ought 
 to change his horse, he has the right to refuse 
 to take you. The fare by the hour is two 
 francs, and the men do not drive so fast as by 
 the "course," although they will usually do 
 so if you promise them a good "pourboire." 
 During an exhibition they expect two francs 
 for a course, and three by the hour. 
 
 Each man is bound to show his tariff if 
 requested to do so, and on it is the number of 
 his cab. If you want to go into one of the 
 large shops, you should ask your cabby for his 
 number, which he will give you on a small 
 piece of paper, and when you come out, if you 
 give that paper to one of the "commission- 
 naires," who are always at the doors of the 
 shops, he will find your cab for you as boys 
 do after the theatre at home. For this you 
 give him two sous. 
 
 Cabbies have been so often swindled by fares 
 going in at one door and out at another of 
 
FRANCE 146 
 
 the great shops which have many exits, that 
 they have naturally become suspicious, and it 
 is customary to leave a parasol, book, or some 
 other little thing on the seat as you get out. 
 You are secured against theft by the cabby's 
 number which you hold, and he is sure that you 
 will come back to him. 
 
 I once saw an amusing sight outside the 
 Magasins du Louvre. An elderly English 
 woman of the most eminent respectability was 
 holding tight to one end of her parasol, while 
 her cabby, fiercely gesticulating, held equally 
 tight to the other. Both were talking at the 
 tops of their voices, and neither could under- 
 stand a word the other said. The lady wanted 
 to do some shopping and expected to find her 
 cab when she came out, but was not familiar 
 with the custom of leaving some article in it as 
 a guarantee of her return, so the cabby was 
 insisting upon her parasol as a deposit, while 
 she was resisting what she thought was highway 
 robbery. 
 
 In Paris, unlike London, four-seated vehicles 
 cost more than one holding only two passengers. 
 
 The two largest cab companies are the 
 "Urbaine" and the " Compagnie Generale,'' 
 and the cabs of the Urbaine may always be 
 
146 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOE WOMEN 
 
 easily distinguished, because the body of the 
 vehicle is painted in yellow and black to 
 imitate cane work; this company hires out 
 many carriages by the week or month, which 
 are not numbered, but all have the peculiar 
 black and yellow painting. The cabs of the 
 Compagnie Gdn^rale are dark green and black, 
 with a little shield on the door marked "C. G." 
 
 Remember, when you wish to take a cab in 
 Paris after dark, or indeed at any time, that 
 you can always tell to what quarter of the city 
 the stable belongs by the colour of the glass 
 in the lamps, and try as much as possible to 
 take a man who lives in your quarter, because 
 his horse will go better toward home. 
 
 On any map or plan of Paris you may see 
 where these different quarters are ; here are 
 the principal ones with their colours : — 
 
 Blue: The Bastille, La Villette. 
 
 Red: Etoile (or Arc de Triomphe), Avenue de la 
 
 Grande Arm^e, and Batignolles. 
 Green: Vaugirard, and the left side of the Seine, the 
 
 Latin Quarter, etc. 
 Yellow: Montmartre and La Chapelle. 
 
 As a general rule the cabs with the red or 
 green lanterns will be those you want. 
 
 If you can afford it, by far the pleasantest 
 
FRANCE 147 
 
 way to arrange for a cab in the evening is to 
 go to the office of the Urbaine Company near- 
 est your hotel. There are many of these 
 offices, and the portier will be able to direct 
 you. Ask to see the manager, and tell him 
 that you wish to have a cab whenever you 
 want it, and to be able to feel sure that the 
 horse is good and the man sober. You can 
 let him know in the morning, and the man will 
 appear at your door at the time you have 
 named, and will be waiting for you at the 
 theatre when you come out. This costs ten or 
 twelve francs an evening, besides a tip of two 
 francs — as much as a cab would at home ; but 
 you are sure of a decent man, and in case a 
 young girl has to go out to dinner by herself it 
 is really the only satisfactory arrangement. 
 
 Omnibuses in Paris have different rules from 
 those in England. In order to secure a seat 
 you go to a little station, or booth; there is 
 one just opposite the Magasins du Louvre from 
 which you can easily learn what they are all 
 like. If you know that the omnibus which you 
 want to take belongs to the line of which that 
 is the office, you go in and ask for a ticket and 
 are given a number. Then you wait until, in 
 a few moments, an omnibus comes along and 
 
148 EUEOPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 deposits some people. The keeper of the office 
 calls some numbers in the order in which he 
 has given them out, and you listen for yours. 
 If there are three vacant places only in the 
 omnibus, the first three numbers called take 
 them, and you may have to wait still longer. 
 This at a very busy time of the day may happen 
 two or three times, but at last you hear your 
 number, and climb either in or outside, wher- 
 ever you have taken your place. The fare 
 inside is six sous to any part of the city, 
 and outside, called the "imperiale," which is 
 much pleasanter, it is three. The omnibus rolls 
 away with the sign " complet " on the back if 
 it is full ; if a person gets out, the little sign is 
 taken down and it will stop if it is hailed, but 
 the chance of a vacant place is slight and you 
 may wait so long on the pavement that people 
 usually go to the stations. At night a little 
 red lamp takes the place of the board, and has 
 the same meaning. (There is a venerable story 
 of a man who lamented that he could never get 
 to " Complet," although so many omnibuses 
 went there, because none of them would stop 
 for him.) A complicated system of "corre- 
 spondances," or transfers, covers the whole city ; 
 but if you mean to use the omnibuses except 
 
FRANCE 149 
 
 as a delightful way of seeing Paris, you must 
 really study their routes. 
 
 Of late years there have been so many Amer- 
 ican girls studying and living there that a 
 young lady walking alone does not attract so 
 much attention as formerly, but she must be 
 even more careful than in London to dress 
 quietly and behave with reserve and discretion. 
 Do not look at men ; do not walk on the boule- 
 vards in the late afternoon ; and especially do 
 not loiter at that time under the arcade of the 
 Rue di Rivoli, opposite the Louvre. There are 
 quantities of little shops there, the windows of 
 which are full of photographs of actresses and 
 various conspicuous people, many of them in toi- 
 lettes which recall that of the " Young Lady of 
 Crete," and to the foreign mind it is absolutely 
 incomprehensible that nice girls should stand 
 gazing and admiring as too many of them do. 
 
 Women who have no man with them can go to 
 the theatres in the evening without any incon- 
 venience. As these are scattered all over Paris, 
 you may, to save trouble, procure seats through 
 one of the many "Agences des Theatres," 
 easily distinguishable by the posters outside 
 them, where you pay a premium which varies 
 with the attractiveness of the spectacle. 
 
150 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Usually it is two francs a place above the 
 theatre price, but for gala affairs it is often 
 much higher. 
 
 If you have time it is always better to get 
 your tickets at the " bureau de location " of 
 the theatre itself, and be sure to ask whether 
 the play you want to see will be given on the 
 evening for which you are buying them, as 
 the bills of foreign theatres change often, and 
 without warning. 
 
 The most comfortable seats are the " stalles 
 d'orchestre " or the " fauteuils de balcon," and 
 at the principal theatres the price of these, at 
 the box office, is from seven to nine francs, or 
 about the same as at home. 
 
 Tuesdays and Thursdays are subscription 
 nights at the Theatre Frangais, and many peo- 
 ple take their boxes or seats for the season, 
 which makes it hard to get places for those 
 evenings if there is a new play. Monday is 
 the fashionable subscription night at the Opera. 
 
 The Theatre Frangais will soon be rebuilt, 
 and you should certainly go to it at least once, 
 even if you do not understand French, as it 
 is one of the characteristic institutions of 
 Paris. 
 
 The question as to the theatres to which ladies 
 
FBANCB 151 
 
 can or cannot go is a delicate one. The rule 
 between married and unmarried women is very 
 sharply drawn in France. A married woman 
 may go anywhere her husband chooses to take 
 her, and read any book which he does not for- 
 bid; but unmarried women do not as a rule 
 read French novels nor go to most of the thea- 
 tres, unless the piece is unobjectionable. 
 
 A Frenchman who sees a young unmarried 
 woman at the Palais Royal Theatre or with a 
 certain kind of French novel in her hand, does 
 not know what to think, and it is not his fault 
 if he believes that she understands a great deal 
 more than she does. 
 
 The Theatre Frangais, as I have said, is a 
 classic institution, and the Odeon almost as 
 much so. At the Opera the lyric perform- 
 ances are not nearly so good as we have now 
 in America, but the ballets are far more beau- 
 tiful. Coquelin and Sarah Bernhardt play at 
 their theatres much the same pieces that they 
 bring to America, and it often happens that 
 some historical play is entirely inoffensive ; but 
 one cannot be sure, and if you are in doubt you 
 had better stay away. 
 
 The Palais Royal is the home of broad farce 
 of the Gallic variety, and although the pieces 
 
152 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 are occasionally amusing, they cannot be recom- 
 mended to youth. 
 
 The " star " system by which one theatre has 
 twenty different companies as tenants during a 
 season is unknown in Paris ; each has its own 
 director and its permanent troupe. One piece 
 may be perfectly harmless, the next terrible 
 according to our standards ; and the only way 
 to decide whether to go or not is to ask the 
 advice of some friend who knows more than 
 you do. 
 
 At the Opera and the Theatre Fran9ais, 
 women are only allowed in the orchestra stalls 
 without hats, and not in the first three rows. 
 In other theatres there are no restrictions. 
 
 French theatre tickets are not like ours, 
 being slips of paper with the number of one's 
 seat written on them twice. When you go 
 into the vestibule of the theatre you will see 
 three men sitting like judges, in a sort of box 
 or pen ; you give one of them your slips of 
 paper, at which he glances, tears them in two, 
 and hands you the other halves. In the cor- 
 ridor outside your seats you find some old 
 women with beribboned caps, who urge you to 
 leave your cloaks with them, and you had 
 better do it; for French theatres are usually 
 
FRANCE 153 
 
 crowded and always hot. These women are 
 called "ouvreuses," and they are as much a 
 part of the machinery of the French theatre as 
 the prompter. You may put two or three light 
 wraps together, for which the " ouvreuse " will 
 give you a number ; she then tells you where 
 to find your seat, and you go in. 
 
 French people are fond of going out into the 
 " foyer " between the acts to walk up and down, 
 talk, or drink raspberry vinegar and such-like 
 mild refreshments ; the consequence is that they 
 tramp over one's feet several times each evening. 
 In the Theatre Frangais there was no aisle 
 down the middle of the orchestra stalls, but a 
 bar separating the even from the uneven num- 
 bers, and if you could get seats against that bar, 
 directly in the middle of the house, you had to 
 climb over everybody to get in if you were 
 late, but after that nobody passed you. Never 
 wear a good skirt to a Paris theatre, except in 
 a box, as the floors are always dirty. 
 
 When the play is over, fifty centimes will be 
 enough for your ouvreuse, or a franc if you are a 
 large party. You will have to find a vehicle for 
 yourself, there being no " commissionnaire " as 
 at the English theatres, and your going home 
 will probably not be so pleasant as in London. 
 
164 EUROPEAK TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 There are plenty of cabs, but the horses are 
 often lame and tired, and the cabbies beat them 
 unmercifully. You may have the good luck to 
 find a horse which is not exhausted, and glad to 
 be going toward home, or else you may, especially 
 in an Exhibition year, be made to feel that you 
 would much rather walk any distance than sit 
 another minute in the cab. 
 
 The postal arrangements in Paris are excel- 
 lent, and their system of ''card telegrams" a 
 great convenience. At any post-office station 
 you may buy these little cards, which cost thirty 
 centimes for an ordinary one, like a postal card, 
 and fifty centimes for a small sheet of blue 
 paper with a line gummed around the edges 
 and a row of perforations like those which 
 separate postage-stamps. You write as much 
 as you choose on the inside of this little sheet 
 of paper, which will hold thirty or forty words, 
 then double it over, wet the gummed edges and 
 stick them together, write the address, and drop 
 it into a special slit reserved for these "cartes 
 telegrammes" at the office, when it will be 
 whisked away through a pneumatic tube at 
 once, and delivered as quickly as a regular tele- 
 gram. The person receiving it merely has to 
 tear off the gummed edge which closes the 
 
FEANCB 165 
 
 sheet; and the open cards go in the same quick 
 way. If you wish to change an appointment 
 with a dressmaker or send word that you want 
 a cab, two hours is usually quite enough time 
 to allow for one of these card telegrams to 
 reach any part of Paris. The colloquial name 
 for the closed ones is "petit bleu," from the 
 shade of their paper. 
 
 Ordinary telegrams within the limits of 
 France cost one franc for the first twenty 
 words, the address being included, and one 
 sou for each word after that. The tariff for 
 other countries varies. 
 
 Although Paris is essentially a city of res- 
 taurants and cafes, there are none to which 
 it is pleasant for ladies to go by themselves, 
 and you had better avoid them. There are 
 several tea rooms in the English and American 
 quarter where you can get very good afternoon 
 tea and cakes, and if you want to lunch away 
 from your own hotel, you may go to one of the 
 many "Bouillons Duval." There the food is 
 good and cheap, and you are waited on by 
 young women ; while, although the company is 
 not exciting, it is respectable. 
 
 There are half a dozen huge shops in Paris to 
 which most strangers drift naturally, and about 
 
156 EFROPBAlsr TRAVEL FOR "WOMEN 
 
 the two best-known of them a hoary anecdote is 
 told, to the effect that a young woman, who was 
 asked when she went home what she had most 
 admired in the Louvre, replied that on the 
 whole she preferred the gloves there to those at 
 the Bon Marche. 
 
 The largest shops are like our department 
 stores, or the cooperative stores in London, 
 and are known by fancy titles instead of the 
 names of their proprietors. Among the best 
 of them are the "Magasins du Louvre," and 
 the " Samaritaine," in the Rue de Rivoli; the 
 " Bon Marche," and the " Petit St. Thomas," 
 in the Rue du Bac, and the "Printemps," on 
 the Boulevard Haussmann. 
 
 When you go to shops let me warn you 
 against a want of consideration which often 
 comes from lack of thought. In all the large 
 ones, a number of the employees, both men and 
 women, speak English, but in many cases it is 
 scarcely fluent. I have seen a woman go into the 
 Bon Marche and say to one of the shop-girls, " Do 
 you speak English? " to which the answer was 
 "Yees, madame, a leedle." Then down came 
 the long-pent-up torrent of the shopper's elo- 
 quence, — she talked at a pace that would have 
 staggered a stenographer, and the poor girl was 
 
FRANCE 167 
 
 drowned in the flood. Up came the watch- 
 ful section superintendent, who saw that the 
 attendant did not really understand the lady, 
 and although I could not hear what he said to the 
 girl, I am afraid she may have lost her place in 
 consequence. Therefore, when speaking Eng- 
 lish to foreigners, "let your words be few and 
 well chosen," and speak as you would to a little 
 child, or even more slowly and distinctly. 
 
 Wednesday is " bargain day " at the Magasins 
 du Louvre, and Friday at the Bon Marche, and 
 if you do not mind a tremendous crowd, espe- 
 cially in the afternoon, you can often get things 
 cheaper than on other days ; but otherwise I 
 advise your choosing another time, and always 
 go as early in the morning as you can. 
 
 In your wanderings about, if you see a little 
 thing which you like, can afford, and have 
 room for, buy it at once, and do not think that 
 you can get the same thing just as well later 
 somewhere else. The chances are that you 
 will never see anything like it again, and will 
 be sorry during the rest of your journey that 
 you did not take it at first. If you go into 
 a large shop in Paris and take a fancy to a 
 certain cape, or necktie, or petticoat, do not 
 be deterred from getting it because there are 
 
158 EUKOPEAN TEAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 many others exactly like it ; seen together, 
 they may look rather common because of their 
 number, but when your purchase is trans- 
 ported home it will probably be the admiration 
 of your friends and you will only wish you had 
 more. 
 
 If you buy new clothes before leaving Paris 
 it is better to ask your dressmaker to recom- 
 mend you a professional packer. He (for it is 
 always a man) will save you a great deal of 
 trouble, but he will also awe you by the amount 
 of room which, according to him, every self- 
 respecting frock requires. He stuffs the sleeves 
 and bows with tissue paper ; he lays little rolls 
 down every fold where a crease could possibly 
 come; he puts countless tacks and pins to prevent 
 the contents of the tray from shifting, and alto- 
 gether spreads your purchases over what seems 
 to you a great deal of space. For the ocean 
 journey, although not for travelling, cheap 
 trunks serve their purpose, and a very fair-sized 
 one can be bought in Paris for thirty francs. If 
 your packer is good, and your clothes not mal- 
 treated at the custom-house, they should be 
 as fresh when you unpack them in your own 
 room as they were when they came from the 
 dressmaker's. It is false economy to crowd 
 
FRANCE 159 
 
 them yourself into boxes too small for them, 
 for, even if you go directly home, it must be at 
 least a fortnight between the time you pack 
 them and take them out, and most of that has 
 been spent on board ship, where the sea air 
 seems to penetrate even into the most tightly 
 closed boxes. 
 
 If you reach Paris in winter, you will be 
 wise to get yourself, as soon as possible, at 
 any of the large shops, a pair of thick slip- 
 pers with felt soles, as you have left carpets 
 which cover the floor behind you in England, 
 and will only find small rugs on the stone or 
 tile or wooden floors. You should also buy a 
 warm dressing-gown, especially if you are going 
 to Italy, as the chilliness of part of the southern 
 winter is sometimes penetrating. 
 
 While you were in England the question of 
 your washing was simple, as you made the list 
 out in English, but now it will be a different 
 matter. At any of the book shops which are 
 meant especially for English and American 
 tourists, such as Brentano's, 37 Avenue de 
 r Opera; Neal's, 284 Rue de Rivoli; Galignani's, 
 224 in the same street, or Gateau's, 8 Rue 
 Castiglione, you will be able to get a polyglot 
 washing list in English, French, German, and 
 
160 EUEOPEAN TRAVEL EOR WOMEN 
 
 Italian. Then all you have to do is to write 
 the number for yourself opposite the English 
 name, and for the laundress opposite the foreign 
 one. You keep the English list and pin the 
 other on your clothes-bag. Try to have your 
 things back in good season before you must 
 leave an hotel, as laundresses sometimes take 
 the chance of your not having time to count 
 them, and in that way you may leave a trail of 
 handkerchiefs, collars, and stockings behind you. 
 If you mean to travel about after you leave 
 Paris, and wish to see as much as you can, you 
 must certainly count upon lunching often in 
 the railway carriage, as it saves a great deal of 
 time, and for this you will need a luncheon 
 basket, because it is of the utmost importance 
 that you should eat as regularly and as much 
 as possible, unless you wish to tire yourself 
 out. In the expensive shops on the boule- 
 vards, and in the different establishments which 
 sell conveniences for travellers, these baskets 
 are elaborately fitted up, very heavy and very 
 dear, but for a fraction of the price you can get 
 one which will be more useful and comfortable. 
 Go to the Bon Marche, and select a basket 
 of ample but not unwieldy size, made of some 
 sort of soft straw or reeds, which, although 
 
FRANCE 161 
 
 stout, will not have sharp ends to tear your 
 hands and clothes, and with a strap around 
 it. Then go to the housekeeping department, 
 and choose three or four (as many as you 
 want) small enamelled plates, the same num- 
 ber of knives and forks, an enamelled pot 
 with a tight-fitting cover, for butter, and a 
 drinking-glass in a straw case for each member 
 of the party ; there should also be a small cork- 
 screw. Be careful, by the way, to choose your 
 basket long enough to carry a bottle of wine or 
 mineral water comfortably. These things thus 
 bought cost only a few francs, and your basket 
 is not blocked up with a number of compart- 
 ments holding things which you do not want. 
 Buy also a dozen small napkins, and get at any 
 apothecary's a new glass pot with a screw top, 
 such as are made for cold cream, to hold salt. 
 A cake of chocolate, or whatever form of it 
 you like best, should live in the luncheon bas- 
 ket, or at least be somewhere easily accessible 
 on journeys, as a biscuit and a bit of chocolate 
 may often prevent your feeling faint or having 
 a headache. Chocolate to drink at the first 
 meal of the day, instead of tea or coffee, is 
 attainable in almost every corner of Europe ; 
 and if you miss a hearty breakfast you will 
 
162 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 find this much more sustaining than either of 
 the other beverages. If you are dependent on 
 milk, by the way, there are now in all the large 
 towns private dairies from which it is sent out 
 in sealed bottles, as with us, and if you tell 
 your waiter that you want so much each day, 
 it will be delivered regularly and put on your 
 bill. It costs a little more than ordinary milk, 
 as usual, but it is supposed to be safer. If you 
 are rather run down from rapid travelling, or 
 overtired from sight-seeing, a few days' rest, 
 and as much milk diluted with an equal quan- 
 tity of Vichy water as you can take, will 
 probably bring you up as quickly as though 
 you consulted a physician. 
 
 In case, however, one of your party should 
 seem likely to be ill, it is well to know that 
 English nurses may be obtained at the follow- 
 ing addresses: The Holland Nursing Insti- 
 tution, 25 Rue d' Amsterdam; St. George's 
 Nursing Association, 92 Rue de la Boche, and 
 the Deaconesses' Home, 95 Rue de Reuilly. 
 During the Exhibition of 1900, nurses from the 
 Presbyterian Hospital, and from St. Luke's, in 
 New York, will have an office at 102 Rue Vau- 
 girard, and there will be many American nurses 
 in Paris. 
 
FRANCE 163 
 
 In almost every French town there are " char- 
 cuterie " shops, where you can buy cooked meats 
 of all kinds, and if, when you are out, you see 
 a good cold roast chicken in a window, and are 
 going on an expedition where you mean to use 
 your luncheon basket, buy the chicken and 
 bring it back in a discreet parcel. You will 
 find it costs much less than if you order it 
 from the hotel, and if you wish to take a bottle 
 of wine, you can buy it cheaper in a grocer's 
 shop. If you order rolls and butter to take 
 with you, the hotel keeper will be quite 
 contented. 
 
 Whether you like it or not, it is wiser to 
 drink mineral water while you are abroad, 
 except in a few cities. There are said to be 
 artesian wells in Paris which are quite safe, 
 but in general the water there has a bad name, 
 and you had better drink St. Galmier. Min- 
 eral waters have their districts, like wines, and 
 you will soon find out what those are by the 
 prices on the hotel wine lists. When you find 
 that the water that you have been drinking 
 costs a little more than it did at the last place, 
 and that the one next it on the list is rather 
 cheaper, it means that you have crossed the 
 boundary line into the second one's territory ; 
 
164 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 and you had better change, as one is as good as 
 another, and all chiefly useful to protect you, 
 or at least give you the illusion of protection, 
 against microbes. 
 
 When there are children with you or people 
 who drink a great deal, if you are going to 
 make any stay in a place you should order a 
 gallon of distilled water from a chemist's, as 
 that is quite as safe as if from a mineral spring, 
 and much less expensive. 
 
 You should never travel in France without 
 a provision of copper sous. Many of the rail- 
 way trains on the Continent now have toilet 
 rooms attached to the carriages, but as a rule 
 only on the expresses, and those at the stations 
 are always taken care of by old women, the 
 regulation tip from each person being two 
 sous. 
 
 If you get tired walking in Paris and sit 
 down on an iron chair, in a few moments a 
 polite old lady or an old man in a blouse will 
 come and stand smiling before you, which 
 means that he or she expects a couple of 
 pennies for the use of the chair. The fixed 
 benches in the parks are free, but as the mov- 
 able chairs which are everywhere in Paris and 
 which add greatly to one's comfort belong to 
 
FRANCE 165 
 
 private individuals, or to companies, there is a 
 charge for them. 
 
 In France there seems to be no dividing line 
 between the work of men and that of women. 
 All the rough chamber work in hotels, for 
 instance, is done by men ; they sweep the floors, 
 empty dirty water, etc., while the chambermaid 
 makes the bed and arranges the room. This 
 custom at first seems strange to American and 
 English people, but it is one of the customs of 
 the country. In Italy it is not as general as in 
 France, but everywhere out of England men do 
 a great deal of the work which we only associate 
 with women. In an ordinary year, when Paris 
 is not hysterical over an exhibition, if you have 
 stayed a fortnight in a quiet hotel, your tips 
 would be about these : to the portier, ten francs, 
 and the same to your waiter and your chamber- 
 maid (or seven to her and three to her male 
 assistant); five francs to the "garden d'etage," 
 an upstairs waiter, who has brought your break- 
 fast tray and answered your sitting-room bell; 
 and three to the gargon who corresponds to 
 "boots," and who takes your trunks up and 
 down. 
 
 The things worth seeing in Paris are so 
 many, and of such different kinds, that I can- 
 
166 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 not even begin to tell you about them, but I 
 may indicate one or two which are not dwelt 
 upon in the guide-books. If you are there in 
 spring or summer, it will amuse you to go up 
 and down the Seine in the little river-boats 
 known as " mouches " or '^ hirondelles," — flies 
 and swallows. You may go to Suresnes or St. 
 Cloud, lunch at one of the inns there, and come 
 back whenever you please. These boats corre- 
 spond to those which go to Greenwich, but I 
 think you will be struck with the different way 
 in which English and French people take their 
 pleasure. 
 
 In England, a man goes about with his sweet- 
 heart, or his wife, if she has only one child to 
 look after, but when more come she seems to 
 stay at home with them, and her fiusband joins 
 other men. In France, on the other hand, the 
 more the merrier is the feeling about family 
 parties ; in any of the suburbs of Paris on a 
 holiday, or in any corner of the Bois de Bou- 
 logne, you will find numbers of picnics going 
 on, with parents, children, and grandparents 
 perfectly happy in being together. It makes 
 an American rather ashamed to see how neat 
 such parties are after they have finished feast- 
 ing ; every scrap of paper, egg-shell, or bit of 
 
FRANCE 167 
 
 bread is collected, and no rubbish of any sort 
 left to disfigure the grass. 
 
 There is not much left now of old Paris, but 
 in the heart of the city, on the little island where 
 the Cathedral of Notre Dame stands, there are 
 still some curious streets, with names even 
 older, probably, than the present buildings. 
 In the cathedral itself, notice the noble sweep 
 of the simple columns behind the choir — you 
 will not see anything else just like it in all 
 cathedral architecture. If you are in Paris at 
 the end of Lent, try to hear the '' Chanteurs de 
 Saint Gervais," which is an old church on the 
 left side of the Seine. The " Chanteurs " are 
 musical enthusiasts, who have revived the old 
 plain-song; they have no organ accompani- 
 ment, only permitting the voice and sometimes 
 the violin. They give old church music, some 
 of it mediaeval, and some by Palestrina, Pergo- 
 lese, and others, but nothing modern. It is 
 simple enough to hear it, — all you need do is 
 to find your way to the Church of Saint Ger- 
 vais et Saint Protais (to give its full name), in 
 the Rue Frangois-Miron, pay a trifle for a chair, 
 and perhaps give something for the repairs of 
 the church and expenses of the society, if a 
 collection is taken up. On Holy Thursday, 
 
168 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Good Friday, and Easter Sunday, the music 
 is especially fine and impressive. 
 
 If you travel in France you must learn how 
 to register your luggage, which is much more 
 troublesome to do on the Continent than in 
 England. The process, which is the same in 
 Germany and Italy, is as follows : As soon as 
 you get to a railway station, a porter takes the 
 luggage from the cab to the checking-office, 
 for which he expects four sous a trunk, and 
 it is placed on a very long wooden counter, in 
 a group together, and pushed up in its turn to 
 the scales, which are by the luggage agent's win- 
 dow. In France you are allowed thirty kilos, 
 or about sixty pounds ; in Germany twenty-five 
 kilos, but in Italy every pound of luggage must 
 be paid for. When your turn comes, state in 
 a loud clear voice where you are going, and 
 deliver up your railway tickets, which will 
 be returned to you stamped, with a separate 
 receipt on a printed form, bearing a printed 
 number, and, in writing, the number of pieces, 
 their destination, and the price of transporta- 
 tion. The same printed number is pasted on 
 each of your pieces, and you should therefore 
 copy it as soon as possible into your pocket- 
 book, as the number alone, accompanying your 
 
FRANCE 169 
 
 keys, which of course will open your own boxes, 
 will identify the luggage as yours on arrival, 
 in case you should lose the printed receipt, 
 which is called " billet de bagage " in French, 
 " gepackschein " in German, and " scontrino '' 
 in Italian. This may save enormous trouble. 
 After your luggage is once registered to any 
 place within the boundaries of the country, 
 which it should be at least ten minutes before 
 the train starts, you need not concern yourself 
 about it though you may have to change trains 
 several times. 
 
 If you know how much your luggage weighs, 
 as you will be able to do by consulting the first 
 receipt you get, on which the weight in kilo- 
 grammes is marked, you will be able to calcu- 
 late very closely how much it will cost on any 
 journey. 
 
 If you possibly can, go to the valley of the 
 Loire in spring or early summer, and don't 
 forget to take Mr. James's "Little Tour in 
 France " with you. If you have good weather 
 you can see the group of chateaux for which it 
 is famous within a week or ten days, supposing 
 you have no more time to give, and the roads 
 are exceptionally good, if you wish to make a 
 bicycle trip of it. Also run down to Chartres 
 
170 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 over night, and to Laon, as well, to see their 
 great cathedrals. You may leave Paris in the 
 morning, arrive at either of them in the middle 
 of the day, which will give you the afternoon 
 and the next morning, and you can return 
 to Paris before night. Rheims is about the 
 same distance, and when you have seen those 
 three cathedrals, besides Notre Dame de Paris, 
 you will have at least an idea of French Gothic 
 architecture. Look particularly at the stained 
 glass in Chartres, and Laon, and Rheims, which 
 is exceedingly fine ; the art of making it was 
 lost for several hundred years, to be found 
 again with a different expression but equal 
 splendour, in our own day and country, by 
 Mr. John La Farge. 
 
 France is a country of inexhaustible riches ; 
 you may spend your life there, as in Italy, and 
 never be done going to school, but the task will 
 be an ever new pleasure. 
 
 SOME BOOKS ABOUT FRANCE 
 
 A star (*) means that a book is of portable size, and useful 
 for local reference. 
 
 T. means that it is published in the Tauchnitz edition. 
 
 *Walks in Paris, Augustus J. C. Hare. Macmillan. 
 *Days near Paris, Augustus J. C. Hare. Macmillan. 
 ♦Southwestern France, Augustus J. C. Hare. Macmillan. 
 
FRANCE 171 
 
 *A Little Tour in France, Henry James. T. 
 
 Old Court Life in France (2 vols.), Mrs. Elliott. T. 
 
 Renaissance of Art in France, Mrs. Mark Pattison. 
 
 Mac mill an. 
 The Court of France in the Sixteenth Century (2 vols.), 
 
 Lady Jackson. Scribner. 
 Old Paris, Lady Jackson. Scribner. 
 France (2 vols.), J. E. C. Bodley. Macmillan. 
 *The Bible of Amiens, Ruskin. George Allen. 
 French Home Life, F. Marshall. Appleton. 
 The Stones of Paris in History and Letters (2 vols.), 
 
 Benjamin and Charlotte Martin. Scribner. 
 Histoire de Paris, F. Bournon. 
 
 Architecture of Provence, D. Macgibbon. Douglas. 
 Travels in France in 1787-8-9, Arthur Young (Bohn 
 
 Library). Macmillan. 
 Le Chateau de Versailles (2 vols.), L. E. Diissieux. 
 Old Touraine (2 vols.), T. A. Cook. Macmillan. 
 The Story of Rouen, T. A. Cook. Macmillan. 
 Mediaeval France, Gustave Masson. Putnam. 
 Modern France, Andre Le Bon. Putnam. 
 French and English, P. G. Hamerton. Roberts. 
 Modern Frenchmen, P. G. Hamerton. Roberts. 
 La Peinture en Europe, Le Louvre : Lafenestre and Richt- 
 
 enberger (in English also). Scribner. 
 In Praise of Paris, T. Child. Harper. 
 Memorable Paris Houses, W. Harrison. Scribner. 
 Promenades a Versailles, Philippe Gilles. 
 France of To-day, M. Betham-Edwards. T. 
 The Maritime Alps, by the author of " Vera." T. 
 
1T2 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 A FEW NOVELS 
 
 Twelfth and Thirteenth Centuries 
 
 Arthur of Brittany Peter Leicester. 
 
 Good Saint Louis and his Times .... A. E. Bray. 
 Marie de Brabant C. P. F. Meoegault. 
 
 Fourteenth Century 
 
 Before the Dawn George Dulac. 
 
 Isabeau de Bavi^re Alexandre Dumas. 
 
 The Provost of Paris W. S. Browning. 
 
 Fifteenth Century 
 
 Charles le Tdmeraire Alexandre Dumas. 
 
 Quentin Durward Walter Scott. T. 
 
 Notre Dame de Paris Victor Hugo. 
 
 A Stormy Life Georgiana Fullerton. T. 
 
 Sixteenth Century 
 
 A Chaplet of Pearls CM. Yonge. T. 
 
 La Reine Margot Alexandre Dumas. 
 
 Francois de Guise J. M. Brisset. 
 
 Good Old Times Anne Manning. 
 
 Seventeenth Century 
 
 Les Trois Mousquetaires .... Alexandre Dumas. 
 
 Cinq-Mars Alfred de Vigny. 
 
 Dorothy Arden J. M. Calwell. 
 
 La Maison de Maureze Henri Greville. 
 
 Sister Louise G. J. Whyte-MelviUe. T. 
 
FRANCE 173 
 
 Eighteenth Century 
 
 The Atelier du Lys Margaret Roberts. T. 
 
 A Tale of Two Cities Charles Dickens. T, 
 
 Le Collier de la Reine Alexandre Dumas. 
 
 Cerise G. J. Whyte-Melville. T. 
 
 Quatrevingt-treize Victor Hugo. 
 
 Citoyenne Jacqueline Sarah Tytler. T. 
 
 On the Edge of the Storm . . Margaret Roberts. T. 
 
 Nineteenth Century 
 
 Histoire d'uii Conscrit Erckmann-Chatrian. 
 
 Waterloo Erckmann-Chatrian. 
 
 The Parisians Bulwer Lytton. T. 
 
 Within Iron Walls (the siege of Paris) . Annie Lucas. 
 Workman and Soldier (the Commune) . . J. F. Cobb. 
 A Week in a French Country-House . Adelaide Sartoris. 
 Hotel du Petit St. Jean by the author of " Vera." T. 
 The Village on the Cliff .... Miss Thackeray. T. 
 
GERMANY 
 
 Formerly in Germany almost every little 
 state had its own mint, which was bewildering ; 
 but there is now a universal coinage. There is 
 no copper money except in very old-fashioned 
 districts, the new pieces being all made of 
 nickel, and very ugly they are. 
 
 There are one hundred pfennigs in a mark, 
 which has the value of an English shilling, or 
 twenty-four of our cents. The smallest nickel 
 coin is for five pfennigs or one cent, and is the 
 equivalent of a French copper sou. " Pfennigs " 
 sounds so like " pennies " that an American is 
 tempted to think that the little nickel piece 
 marked " five pfennigs " is worth five cents in- 
 stead of only one — which to a railway porter 
 is a very harrowing error. There are also 
 nickel pieces for ten and twenty pfennigs, the 
 smallest silver one being for fifty pfennigs or 
 half a mark. Then come one and two mark 
 pieces and also one for five marks ; the smallest 
 gold coin is for ten marks, and the one which 
 174 
 
GERMANY 175 
 
 corresponds to the English sovereign and the 
 French louis is worth twenty. 
 
 Here is the rough table of equivalents be- 
 tween German money and ours : — 
 
 German. American. 
 
 Five pfennigs = a fraction over one cent. 
 
 Ten pfennigs = about two cents. 
 
 Twenty pfennigs = about four cents. 
 
 Fifty pfennigs = Ten cents. 
 
 One mark (or 100 pfennigs) = Twenty-four cents. 
 
 Ten marks = Two dollars and a half. 
 
 Twenty marks = Five dollars. 
 
 In many ways Germany is a pleasant coun- 
 try for women travelling alone, as the customs 
 are simple and the scale of expenses not high. 
 You can go second class everywhere on the 
 railways ; indeed, there is a well-known German 
 saying that only "princes, fools, and Americans" 
 travel first class, but be careful, in this nation 
 of smokers, to choose a carriage marked " Nicht- 
 raucher " (non-smoking), or else the " Damen- 
 coupe," which is reserved for our sex. 
 
 In Germany, as in Italy, we are liked because 
 so many people from both countries have emi- 
 grated to North or South America, and if you 
 remark that America is like a new Germany, 
 you will find yourself immediately popular. Do 
 
176 EUROPEAN TEAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 not feel too contemptuous if, after you say you 
 live in New York, you are asked whether you 
 have ever happened to meet a certain person 
 who lives in Denver or Rio Janeiro, because it 
 might not be quite easy for you to answer 
 suddenly questions involving European local 
 geography. You will find a great many more 
 people, in all classes of society, who are able to 
 speak English, than you will either in France 
 or Italy ; and if they know ever so little they 
 are always anxious to practise it, which is con- 
 venient for travellers whose knowledge of Ger- 
 man is limited. 
 
 There is almost as much difference between 
 one part of the country and another as there is 
 in Italy or in the United States, the Bavarians 
 and southern Germans being more easy-going, 
 more artistic, and apparently more good-na- 
 tured, than their brothers farther north. Al- 
 though all Germany is united so far as her 
 military system is concerned, Prussia is still 
 distinctly the military centre, and as for Aus- 
 tria, although we are apt to include it in 
 Germany because its people speak the same 
 language, it is really entirely different, and you 
 must be careful not to call an Austrian " Ger- 
 man," for he may not like it. 
 
GERMANY 177 
 
 Even a woman must realize almost as soon 
 as she crosses the frontier that she is among the 
 greatest military nation of our time, and in 
 Prussia one feels it at every turn. In the pres- 
 ent emperor's zeal for effective administration 
 he does not resemble the common law, which, 
 according to the old axiom, does not con- 
 cern itself with trifles. Nothing is too small 
 to escape his supervision, and his irreverent 
 subjects in Berlin say that if he had not been 
 called by divine authority to the throne of the 
 HohenzoUerns, he would have made an admira- 
 ble superintendent of police. 
 
 Railways have practically taken the place 
 of all other conveyances now in England and 
 France, except as an amusement, like coaching 
 around London ; but in the more remote parts 
 of Germany it is still possible to travel by dili- 
 gence, or " Eilwagen," which is as great a mis- 
 nomer as " fly " in English, " eilen " meaning 
 to hurry, which these arks certainly do not. 
 Needless to say they are under government 
 supervision, and therefore as strictly regulated 
 as the post-office, from which, in the little 
 towns and villages where you will find them, 
 they usually start. If the country is pretty, 
 which is of course the inducement for taking 
 
178 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 them, you will see it better than from a train, 
 and if you are not in a hurry, and it does not 
 happen to be very dusty, there is no pleasanter 
 way to travel unless you hire a carriage for 
 yourselves, which is easy to do, and not expen- 
 sive. The cost per day of a carriage with two 
 horses, or " zwei-spanner," which will carry four 
 people and a very moderate amount of luggage 
 behind, is from eighteen to twenty-five marks, 
 and an " ein-spanner," with one horse, for two 
 people, ought to cost from ten to fifteen. The 
 driver expects a mark a day as his " trink- 
 geld," or tip, but he pays all the expenses of 
 •himself and his horses. Supposing that you 
 are in a village of the Bavarian Highlands, and 
 want to make a driving tour of a few days, you 
 would arrange for it in this way. Send for the 
 innkeeper (for your lodging will scarcely rise 
 to the dignity of an hotel), and tell him you 
 want a driver whom he can recommend. When 
 the man comes, he will bring a little book in 
 which former employers have written what 
 they thought of his services ; you will be lucky 
 if these opinions are not all in German char- 
 acters, and, indeed, some knowledge of the 
 language is almost essential if you mean to 
 travel in this antiquated way. If you like the 
 
GERMANY 179 
 
 man's looks and references, say you want to see 
 his horses, and this even if you are not learned 
 in horseflesh. He will respect you all the more 
 if he thinks you know what you are about, and 
 when he brings them for inspection, any woman 
 can see whether or not a horse's neck or back is 
 sore, or its legs swollen. Tell him to walk them 
 up and down slowly, and see if they go stiff 
 or lame — they will show it then, although they 
 might not at a faster gait. Make your bargain 
 with him before the hotel-keeper, or some one 
 whom he will know is a witness, in case of any 
 difficulty as to terms when you part, although 
 this is not very likely, for the German " Lohn- 
 Kutscher" is as a rule an honest creature. 
 The country around Ober-Ammergau is well 
 suited to this way of travelling, but during the 
 time of the Passion play, all prices become 
 relatively as feverish as those of Paris in an 
 exhibition year. With regard to that perform- 
 ance (to use a conventional word which ill 
 describes it), all I can say is, that when I saw 
 it years ago, it left a profound and reverent 
 impression on my mind, and I have always 
 longed to see it again. If you mean to go, 
 unless you should be so blessed by fortune as 
 to have friends in Munich who will look after 
 
180 EXJEOPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 you, the best thing you can do is to put your- 
 self into the hands of Mr. Cook, through whom 
 you may make every arrangement as to lodging 
 and tickets, even if you do not join one of his 
 parties. 
 
 Railway fares in Germany are cheaper than 
 in England or France, those for the second 
 class being about two cents a mile, and many 
 of the carriages are arranged like our own. 
 The American who goes into an European 
 Wagner or Pullman car has at first a sensation 
 of being crowded into something smaller than 
 it should be, and so it is, for the tunnels in 
 Europe are lower than ours, and the gauge of 
 some roads narrower, which obliges a compres- 
 sion of the original model. Where an English 
 railway porter would expect sixpence, or his 
 French fellow ten sous, for carrying the hand 
 luggage of a party from the train to the omni- 
 bus or cab, a German will usually be contented 
 with twenty-five or thirty pfennigs, and about 
 the same difference runs through all prices. 
 
 Berlin is dear compared to other German 
 cities, and women who come for serious study 
 of any kind usually settle at Munich, Stuttgart, 
 or Dresden. The last is pleasant and home- 
 like, and one of its museums is particularly 
 
GERMANY 181 
 
 interesting because it is the repository of all 
 sorts of things collected gradually from one 
 generation to another by the reigning family of 
 Saxony. Now reigning families of other coun- 
 tries have frequently had the same inclination, 
 but to all of them there has come a time of 
 revolution when their bronzes were melted into 
 pennies, their porcelains thrown out of the 
 windows, and their royal garments degraded to 
 vulgar backs. Dresden has never been taken 
 by siege from without, nor looted from within, 
 so in her Johanneum you may see not only a 
 noble collection of armour, very well arranged, 
 but an infinite variety of little traps and uten- 
 sils which seem to bring court life in the sev- 
 enteenth and eighteenth centuries very close. 
 There is a complete set of highly ornamented 
 gardening tools with which an Elector of Sax- 
 ony imitated Adam three hundred years ago ; 
 case after case is filled with every weapon or 
 accoutrement belonging to hunting and hawk- 
 ing ; — even the massive dog-collars of some 
 huge old hounds are piously kept. 
 
 If every woman is at heart a rake, you will 
 be interested in some very fine clothes, once 
 part of the wardrobe of Augustus the Strong, 
 the handsomest and most dissolute man of his 
 
182 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 day, whose son, Count Maurice of Saxony, was 
 the lover of Adrienne Lecouvreur. 
 
 Her name naturally suggests the theatre, 
 which is excellent throughout Germany, as 
 many of the best houses receive a government 
 subsidy. The court theatres are, however, 
 closed for two or three months in summer. 
 The usual price is from five to seven marks for 
 the stalls, and eight or ten for a seat in a box. 
 These are sold separately, but the chairs are 
 not numbered, the first-comers having a right 
 to those in front. 
 
 If you have time to take any German lessons 
 the easiest way to get hold of a teacher is to 
 ask a good bookseller to recommend one, which 
 he can almost always do, or else he will give 
 you the address of a teachers' agency, where 
 you will be given a list of them. The usual 
 price is two marks a lesson, as it is two francs 
 in France, and two lire in Italy. 
 
 The public parks of Germany are beauti- 
 ful, the Englischer Garten at Munich, the 
 Grosser Garten at Dresden, and the Thier- 
 Garten at Berlin being models of their kind, 
 while there are many little squares in all the 
 cities which certainly give a great deal of pleas- 
 ure to the inhabitants. There is one small 
 
GERMANY 183 
 
 park in Berlin, the Victoria, which has an 
 elaborate cliff constructed of artificial rocks, 
 and every morning at a certain time a stream of 
 water tumbles down it in a deliberate cascade as 
 long as it is permitted to run. The pleasure 
 of watching this never seems to pall on the 
 population, for a patient crowd collects every 
 morning to see the waterfall turned on. 
 
 This taste for simple pleasures is very char- 
 acteristic of Germany, and the life of her peo- 
 ple most interesting to watch. It is perfectly 
 possible for two or three ladies to go to any of 
 the respectable concert-halls or gardens, and 
 well worth doing. If it is indoors, there is a 
 platform for the orchestra, the floor being cov- 
 ered with little tables, each filled with a family 
 group. Sometimes a substantial "Abendes- 
 sen," or supper, is being eaten ; at others, beer 
 or white wine is the refreshment. The elder 
 women knit and gossip, and if the daughter of 
 the family is engaged to be married, her be- 
 trothed sits very close to her, often with his 
 arm around her waist, and they gaze at each 
 other as though they were alone in Paradise. 
 The air is blue with smoke, for every man has 
 either a cigar or a pipe, and waiters rush furi- 
 ously to and fro, each carrying a number of 
 
184 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 beer-mugs that seems incredible. If it is sum- 
 mer, the same thing goes on out-of-doors, and 
 the music, which is the excuse for this happy 
 gathering, is nearly always excellent. 
 
 Frenchmen seem to like to take their families 
 off in little groups, each somewhat apart from 
 the other, but Germans are essentially gregari- 
 ous in their pleasures. 
 
 The " conditorei," or cake-shop, is not to be 
 overlooked in German life. As dinner is at 
 one o'clock, and supper not until nine or ten, 
 by four or five it is necessary to take a light 
 intermediate meal, corresponding to the Eng- 
 lish afternoon tea. Coffee is preferred as a 
 drink, and the solid nourishment consists of all 
 sorts and conditions of cakes ; if you are so 
 lucky as to have German friends, you may be 
 invited to a " Kaffee-Klatsch," which answers 
 to an afternoon tea-party ; but if you are a 
 mere tourist you go to munch and sip at a 
 "conditorei." 
 
 Besides the regular hotels of all grades in 
 Berlin, there are there, and probably in other 
 German cities, hybrid establishments of a kind 
 known as a " Hospiz," supposed to be meant 
 especially for ladies who are alone, but gentle- 
 men also go to them, perhaps on the principle 
 
GERMANY 185 
 
 that makes them crowd into the ladies' waiting- 
 room at a station. It cannot be for amusement, 
 as a " Hospiz " is exceedingly dull, and only a 
 little cheaper than a quiet hotel. We tried one 
 in Berlin, and found it a sort of large "pen- 
 sion," full of dreary elderly people, who talked 
 chiefly about what they had to eat. 
 
 Cabs in Berlin are divided into two classes. 
 In those of the first class the drivers have blue 
 coats and white collars, and have a right to a 
 mark for a " course," whereas those of the sec- 
 ond class, who have yellow collars, only get 
 sixty pfennigs. The cabs or " droschken " are 
 usually victorias, and are paid for by time 
 instead of by distance ; in each one, directly 
 facing you below the coachman's seat, there 
 is a little dial with a hand which works while 
 you are moving, checking off the number of 
 pfennigs to which the cabby will be entitled 
 when you stop. Of course the dial is set again 
 for each new fare, and it is a fascinating con- 
 trivance. 
 
 The Zoological Garden, which is in the park 
 named after it, is one of the best in the world, 
 and the animals look well cared for. There 
 must be a great deal in environment, because 
 fat, stodgy cakes can scarcely be the natural 
 
186 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 food of the American coyote, yet one which 
 was there a few years ago devoured them with 
 rapture. 
 
 The finest hotels and smartest shops are on 
 the south side of the famous street Unter den 
 Linden, so called from a double row of lime 
 trees in the middle. Late in the afternoon 
 this south pavement is crowded, but it is not 
 the custom for ladies to walk there at that 
 time, so you had better do your shopping, if 
 you have any, in the morning. 
 
 After a fortnight in a quiet German hotel, it 
 will usually be quite enough to give the portier 
 and your waiter eight marks, the chambermaid 
 six, and the " haus-knecht," or porter, three. 
 
 The post-office regulations are much the 
 same as in France, and letters may be registered 
 from any district station, but in some places, 
 Berlin, for instance, the " paket postampt," or 
 parcel post-office, is in a particular building 
 apart from the others. If you have a parcel to 
 send you had better ask your hotel porter as to 
 this, or better still, let him attend to the errand 
 for you, as the postal officials are sometimes 
 rather gruff to women, who are not pampered 
 in Germany as they are in America. 
 
 Whitsuntide is the great popular holiday. 
 
GEKMANY 187 
 
 which takes the place held by Easter with us, 
 and if the weather is fine everybody who can 
 possibly leave a city pours into the country 
 immediately outside it, and except for the dull 
 uniformity of modern dress, one may see some- 
 thing of what a mediaeval festival must have 
 been like. 
 
 In a very different way, Germany has as 
 much to offer the student or the tourist as 
 France, and the fact that the same person 
 rarely cares equally for both, helps to explain 
 why the two great nations seem destined to 
 remain intimate enemies. 
 
 SOME BOOKS ABOUT GERMANY 
 
 A star (*) means that a book is of portable size, and useful 
 for local reference. 
 
 T. means that it is published in the Tauchnitz edition. 
 
 Germany, S. Baring-Gould. Putnam. 
 
 Life of Goethe, G. H. Lewes. 
 
 The Story of Nuremburg, Cecil Headlam. Macmillan. 
 
 In the Black Forest, L. G. Seguin. 
 
 The Rhine, F. K. Hunt. 
 
 Austria, Sidney Whitman. Putnam. 
 
 Art in the Mountains; the Story of the Passion-Play, 
 
 Henry Blackburn. Sampson Low. 
 Kulturhistorisches Bilderbuch aus drei Jahrhunderten, 
 
 G. Hirth. 
 Alterthum und Gegenwart unter drei Kaisern, Ernst 
 
 Curtius. 
 
188 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Goethe Vorlesungen, Hermann Grimm. 
 
 Wanderbuch, Graf Moltke. 
 
 9.9 Jahre am preussischen Hofe, Grafin Voss. 
 
 Betrachtungen eines in Deutschland reisenden Deutschen, 
 
 P. D. Fisher. 
 Deutsche National Litteratur, Rudolph Gottschall. 
 Die Geschichte Deutschlands im 19ten Jahrhundert, 
 
 Von Treitschke. 
 Geschichte des deutschen Volkes, David Miiller. 
 Der franzosische Feldzug (1870-1871), Niemann. 
 Geschichte der deutschen Frauenwelt, Johannes Scherr. 
 Deutsche Frauen im Mittelalter, Weinhold. 
 
 A FEW NOVELS 
 
 Ninth Century 
 Ekkehard (trans.) J. Victor Scheffel. T. 
 
 Twelfth Century 
 
 Barbarossa J. E. Bischoff. 
 
 Fourteenth Century 
 The Tower of the Hawk Jane L. Willyams. 
 
 Fifteenth Century 
 The Cloister and the Hearth . . . Charles Reade. T. 
 The Dove in the Eagle's Nest . . . CM. Yonge. T. 
 
 Sixteenth Century 
 Chronicles of the Schonberg-Cotta Family . E. Charles. T. 
 Lux et Umbra Georg Hesekiel. 
 
 Seventeenth Century 
 
 Die Tochter des Piccolomini Herlossohn. 
 
 Historische Novellen Adolf Stern. 
 
 Die Briider A. Ungern-Sternberg. 
 
GERMANY 189 
 
 Eighteenth Century 
 
 Friedrich der Grosse E. H. von Dedenrott. 
 
 The Prisoner's Daughter Esme Stuart. 
 
 Nineteenth Century 
 
 Die Ahnen Gustav Freitag. 
 
 Enge Welt Use Frapan. 
 
 Ein Sohn des Volkes Levin Schiicking. 
 
 The Witch of Prague . . . . F. Marion Crawford. T. 
 A Cigarette Maker's Romance (Munich) 
 
 F. Marion Crawford. T. 
 Nina Balatka (Prague) . . . Anthony Trollope. T. 
 
 Das Rathsel des Lebens Paul Heyse. 
 
 Die Familie Buchholz Julius Stinde. 
 
 Am Kreuz : ein Passions-roman aus Oberammergau 
 
 (also in English) . . . Wilhelmine von Hillern. 
 Geier-Wally (the Tyrol) . . Wilhelmine von Hillern. 
 The First Violin Jessie Fothergill. T. 
 
ITALY 
 
 The finances of Italy are now in such a poor 
 condition that gold is at a considerable pre- 
 mium and silver has practically disappeared 
 from circulation, being replaced by coppers for 
 one and two " soldi " or sous, which in out of 
 the way parts of the south are almost the only 
 medium. 
 
 Then come notes for one, two, five, ten, and 
 twenty lire, which soon become filthy, and 
 remain in circulation until they drop to pieces. 
 Even if you are not a slave to the fear of 
 microbes, you may well shrink from touch- 
 ing one of them with your bare hand. As 
 the notes are very small and usually grimy, it 
 is not always easy to tell them apart ; but they 
 are made of different sizes because many of the 
 peasants cannot read, and therefore you will 
 soon become familiar with them. 
 
 French and Italian coppers being of the same 
 value, pass interchangeably in the two countries, 
 but not silver pieces. 
 
 190 
 
ITALY 191 
 
 As the coinage is decimal, the table of values 
 equivalent to ours is the same as in France : — 
 
 Italian. American. 
 
 One soldo = One cent. 
 
 Ten soldi (or fifty centesimi) = Ten cents. 
 
 One lira = Twenty cents. 
 
 Five lire = One dollar. 
 
 Ten lire = Two dollars. 
 
 Twenty lire = Four dollars. 
 
 Travellers who mean to go direct to Italy- 
 will probably take one of the North German 
 Lloyd or Hamburg- American steamers, and land 
 either at Naples or Genoa. From five to seven 
 days out from New York the Azores are usually 
 sighted, and, if they are passed in daylight, and 
 the weather is fine, the boat runs close to land, 
 so that it is easy to see the little villages 
 spotted here and there, and even the flocks of 
 sheep which graze on the round green hillsides. 
 In two and a half days more Gibraltar should 
 be reached, and there steamers stop long enough 
 to give passengers two or three hours ashore. 
 It is well worth while to make this flying visit, 
 for Gibraltar is one of the most picturesque 
 places in the world, besides having historical 
 interest. 
 
 The steamship companies have an arrange- 
 
192 EUKOPEAN TKAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 ment with the local steam tenders, in order that 
 you may be sure of getting back in time, and the 
 round trip costs two francs, or forty cents. Be- 
 fore starting, make sure that some one in the 
 party has a watch, and that it is set by the ship's 
 clock, as nothing spoils pleasure more than 
 having to worry for fear one should be late. A 
 little English money is handy to have also, but 
 not necessary, for every coinage of the world 
 passes at Gibraltar, as every language seems 
 to be more or less spoken. It is quite safe to 
 trust yourselves to one of the smiling and poly- 
 glot cabbies who are waiting on the pier, but as 
 well to ask for his tariff and agree on what you 
 shall pay him when he has brought you back 
 again. As the time is limited, it will be necessary 
 to decide whether you will see the fortifications 
 or get a general idea of the whole place, and, 
 unless you are especially interested in military 
 engineering, you had better make the latter 
 choice. The cabby will probably suggest going 
 first to what is called "the neutral ground" 
 behind the town, on the land side, because from 
 it one gets the best idea of the great rock. The 
 first view of it from the sea is somewhat disap- 
 pointing, as it slopes back like any other hill, 
 with peaceful houses, many of them painted a 
 
ITALY 193 
 
 cheerful pink or blue, settled comfortably on its 
 sides, while a little higher up there is an obso- 
 lete Spanish fort. But on the land side the 
 effect is entirely different. From a level stretch 
 of bare ground a sheer cliff rises grim and gray 
 for nearly fifteen hundred feet, pierced at close 
 intervals by rows of holes which look as though 
 they might have been drilled by some gigantic 
 woodpecker. These are the famous galleries. 
 After a good look at the rock, go back into the 
 principal street of the little town, a narrow and 
 crowded thoroughfare, exceedingly interesting 
 to any one who sees it for the first time, 
 because the most incongruous elements jostle 
 each other, quite unconscious that there is any- 
 thing odd in their neighbourhood. Stolid Eng- 
 lish grooms are exercising sleek polo ponies, 
 followed by fussy little terriers ; fresh-faced 
 English girls, with smart sailor hats set on their 
 shining hair, are walking as energetically as if 
 they were in their county town, while every now 
 and then the narrow street is almost blocked by 
 a string of tiny donkeys hidden under sway- 
 ing piles of green grass or vegetables, the last 
 one ridden by a Spanish peasant woman who 
 sits sideways on a little saddle, her keen dark 
 face framed in a bright shawl. And there are 
 
194 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 real Moors in white bournouses and turbans, 
 with bare brown legs and loose felt slippers, and 
 in their impassive faces the scornful calm of the 
 Oriental among Western barbarians whom he 
 despises while he fears them. English soldiers, 
 too, are everywhere, and of right, for Gibraltar 
 has one of the largest fortress garrisons in the 
 world. There is a pretty little public garden 
 called the Alameda, in which the heliotrope 
 and geranium bushes are as large as lilacs in a 
 New England dooryard, and the market is worth 
 looking into, especially if you want to buy 
 fresh fruit, and by that time you will be due 
 at the dock again. 
 
 Maltese and Spanish laces are cheap at Gibral- 
 tar, and if there is not time to buy them ashore 
 the men who spread their wares on the steam- 
 er's deck during her stop are the representa- 
 tives of the shops to which you would have 
 gone. Spanish fans, brass-handled clasp knives, 
 and other characteristic trifles may be bought 
 here, and nowhere else outside of Spain. 
 
 In about thirty hours more one reaches Al- 
 giers, and some steamers stop there in winter, 
 as long as at Gibraltar. As soon as a boat 
 drops anchor she is boarded by a Cook's inter- 
 preter, asking if one wants to go ashore, and it 
 
ITALY 195 
 
 is best to make up a party among your fellow- 
 passengers and put yourselves in his charge, as 
 to wander about Algiers with a stray cabman 
 might not be safe, and is never satisfactory. 
 
 If the daylight serves, drive first to the Jar- 
 din d'Essai, which is about a mile and a half 
 to the eastward of the town. This was started 
 some years ago by the French government in 
 order to see what trees and plants would thrive 
 best and be most useful to the colonists, and 
 there is an alley or avenue of bamboos, and 
 another of india-rubber trees, which give an 
 excellent idea of tropical vegetation. The en- 
 virons of Algiers are interesting, because again 
 there is the sharp contrast of Western civiliza- 
 tion with the unchanging East. Arab carts 
 with white side curtains and very rudimentary 
 springs are side by side with well-turned-out 
 victorias on the smooth French roads, and in the 
 tram-cars the sturdy and voluble little French 
 soldiers are crowded against Arab women, 
 veiled and swathed into shapeless bundles. 
 
 It is usual to leave the cabs at the top of the 
 old Arab quarter, and walk down through it, 
 meeting them again in the French quarter 
 below. To the guides every inch of the town 
 is familiar, and they will know where you 
 
196 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 ought and ought not to go. The narrow, 
 winding streets are almost as steep as stairs, 
 and one gets glimpses through archways and 
 open doors of a life that seems entirely Ori- 
 ental ; but at every corner there is a very 
 modern gas-lamp, and the name of the street 
 in white letters on a smug blue enamel plate, 
 which is rather unromantic, although doubtless 
 useful. 
 
 On the eleventh or twelfth day after leaving 
 New York the steamer should reach Naples, 
 which is generally sighted early in the morn- 
 ing. The approach to the bay is extremely 
 beautiful, and well worth getting up to see. 
 On the right, Capri and the rocky foreland of 
 Sorrento are always visible ; the larger island 
 of Ischia lies on the left, but Vesuvius is often 
 almost hidden by the morning mist, and comes 
 out suddenly, much higher than one expects it 
 to be. A good hour and a half passes after 
 entering the bay before the steamer is moored 
 and the health officer allows passengers to land. 
 There is now a new quay from which passen- 
 gers for America go directly on board their 
 steamers, but when coming out they are disem- 
 barked and taken on shore by tender, as here- 
 tofore, and those whose voyage terminates or 
 
ITALY 197 
 
 begins here are landed or embarked at the com- 
 pany's expense if the steamship is not able to 
 go alongside the quay. The steamship com- 
 panies have no tender service of their own, but 
 passengers going on to Genoa may land while 
 the vessel stops at Naples, by means of a pas- 
 senger tender which runs between the hours of 
 7 A.M. and 8 p.m., unless special arrangements 
 are made. Tickets to shore can be had on this 
 passenger tender at the price of two and a half 
 lire, which permit the passenger to return to 
 the steamer on the tender, or, if the latter be 
 not ready alongside the landing-place, in a 
 small boat, without further charge. 
 
 As soon as the vessel stops, hundreds of row- 
 boats come alongside, and the boatmen scream 
 and gesticulate in the hope of attracting a 
 fare, but it is in every case better, cheaper, and 
 quicker to go ashore in the company's tender, 
 which lands passengers with their hand luggage 
 at the custom-house pier. Luggage from the 
 hold follows almost immediately in a barge. 
 The custom-house arrangements at Naples are 
 much better than they used to be, for cabin and 
 steerage passengers, with all their effects, were 
 then landed in a small space, which was soon 
 crowded to overflowing, but still there is no 
 
198 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 orderly system, and the only way to do is to 
 pick out the strongest porter in sight, and then, 
 with his assistance, to rout out each separate 
 piece of one's luggage and collect it in one 
 place, where one member of the party should 
 stand guard over it, and count the pieces. 
 Everything then has to be put upon wooden 
 counters, behind which the custom-house offi- 
 cials are stationed, arrayed in a curious uniform 
 of yellow and black, suggesting the operatic 
 stage. They are much less strict in their ex- 
 amination than at Genoa, but the process is a 
 long one and a trial to patience. The best way 
 is to open every piece without hesitation, having 
 one's keys ready beforehand. The articles for 
 which the strictest search is made are tobacco, 
 spirits, perfumery, lace, and any sort of silk or 
 woollen stuff in the piece. There is no law 
 limiting the value of clothing intended for 
 one's own use. 
 
 It is generally a great mistake to attempt to 
 bribe one of the inspectors, unless by some acci- 
 dent he is quite out of sight of all other offi- 
 cials, when he will accept five lire with eager- 
 ness, and the passenger will have no further 
 difficulty. Women who have no man in their 
 party, and who explain that they are travelling 
 
ITALY 199 
 
 for pleasure, rarely, as I have said, have much 
 trouble at any European custom-house, and, if 
 you begin with that of Naples, you can cope 
 with any which may follow. 
 
 While the examination is going on, one of 
 the party had better go outside the gates of the 
 building (which she will be allowed to do if she 
 carries nothing with her), and find the omnibus 
 of the hotel to which they mean to go, as its 
 conductor will be of material assistance in get- 
 ting the luggage from the custom-house, and 
 should be asked to take charge of it and pay 
 the porters who carry it out, as otherwise 
 half a dozen of them will seize each a 
 single object, and expect to be paid a day's 
 wages for carrying it a few steps. Once 
 installed in the omnibus the traveller's worst 
 troubles are over. 
 
 Naples is a bad place to stop in, as it is 
 noisy, dirty, dear, and not always healthy. 
 This is not now due to the water, which is 
 abundant, and as good as any in Italy — in 
 fact, Naples and Rome are the two cities in 
 which it is always safe to drink it. There 
 is enough of interest to be seen, however, to 
 occupy two or three days, during which it is 
 a good plan to make one's headquarters at Cas- 
 
200 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 tellamare, which is only an hour by rail from 
 Naples, and less than half an hour's drive from 
 Pompeii, besides being within easy reach of 
 Amalfi and Psestum. 
 
 Remember after visiting Pompeii to go again, 
 even if you have been there already, to the 
 Museum at Naples where the principal objects 
 found in the excavations are preserved, as it 
 is impossible otherwise to form any idea of 
 the conditions of life and art in the ruined 
 city. 
 
 In case the party wishes to go on at once to 
 Rome, and there is a train within a few hours, 
 it is not necessary to go to an hotel at all. There 
 is sure to be a Cook's interpreter on the custom- 
 house pier, who, on being shown the amount of 
 the luggage, will engage cabs enough to take 
 it, and the travellers themselves, to the railway 
 station, which is nearly a mile from the port. 
 The cabmen may be paid by him in advance, 
 and in case of any difficulty when you get to 
 the station, his colleague on duty there may be 
 appealed to for assistance. As these interpre- 
 ters are employed by Cook to look after persons 
 travelling with the company's tickets, those 
 who have not taken the latter should give a 
 gratuity for the help afforded, varying with 
 
ITALY 201 
 
 circumstances, and in this case from two to five 
 lire, depending upon the size of the party and 
 the amount of luggage. Two lire for three 
 people would be enough, unless he has had 
 a great deal of trouble. I cannot insist too 
 much upon the fact that of all Italian cities 
 Naples is the one in which one is most ex- 
 posed to the rapacity and thieving of por- 
 ters, cabbies, money-changers, street arabs, and 
 even the smaller shopkeepers; and it is in- 
 variably better to put one's self into the 
 hands of a representative of an hotel, or of 
 Cook's agents. Naples is the centre of gravity 
 of all the dirt and evil in Italy; the country 
 and the people steadily improve as one goes 
 northward or southward. It is the richest as 
 well as the largest Italian city, and there is 
 next to no drunkenness, yet there is probably 
 no spot in the civilized world where so many 
 malefactors, from pickpockets to murderers, are 
 gathered into a community. 
 
 All cabs in Italy, as a general rule, are 
 little one-horse victorias, and it is not safe to 
 put anything into the hood behind, as the 
 street thieves are uncommonly quick at grab- 
 bing a parasol or a cloak. At the railway 
 station, which though large is generally very 
 
202 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 crowded, it is always a slow and inconvenient 
 business to buy tickets one's self. The por- 
 ters, who wear uniform caps with little visors, 
 or a metal badge on their chests with a num- 
 ber on it, can be trusted with money, and 
 will procure them; but, whenever practicable, 
 tickets should be bought beforehand in the cit}^, 
 either from Cook's, or from the railway com- 
 pany's ticket office. If obliged to buy your 
 own tickets, be sure to go to the right window 
 of the many which face the porch to which 
 carriages drive up. At each window of a large 
 Italian station the names of the other principal 
 stations of each line are clearly posted up, as, 
 for instance, Roma-Firenze-Milano, or Foggia- 
 Bologna, or Foggia-Bari-Brindisi, and so forth. 
 Never try to get to the window out of your 
 turn. Take your place in the line, and, when 
 your turn comes, ask for your tickets, as the 
 Italians do, in the fewest possible words, 
 namely, " Roma, prima, tre biglietti," which 
 means " Rome, first class, three tickets." Ascer- 
 tain beforehand as nearly as you can what your 
 tickets will cost, and have ready the smallest 
 note that will cover it. The man at the win- 
 dow will tell you the price, and, though it is 
 stamped in small figures upon each ticket, 
 
ITALY 203 
 
 you must remember that there is now an 
 additional government tax which the ticket 
 agent is obliged to calculate and write in 
 ink on the back of each ticket. This causes 
 so much confusion, that at a railway station 
 ticket office it is quite out of the question to 
 count your change without causing the greatest 
 inconvenience to those who are impatiently wait- 
 ing behind you. However, I have never known 
 a ticket agent to cheat, though an accident 
 might occur, as it does sometimes with tellers 
 in banks. The Italians are extraordinarily 
 quick and accurate at mental arithmetic, for 
 Italy is really the beginning of the East, where 
 the most elaborate calculations are made with- 
 out the aid of written figures. In Italy all 
 tickets are cut at the entrance to the waiting- 
 room of the class for which they are sold. 
 These rooms are marked respectively I., II., and 
 III. in Roman numbers, and from them the 
 traveller is at liberty to go in and out as often 
 as he pleases, merely showing his already cut 
 ticket as he passes the door. 
 
 The tedious process of registering luggage 
 on the Continent has been already explained 
 in the notes on France. In Italy, as there, the 
 porters who carry it from the cab to the check- 
 
204 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 ing office expect four sous for each trunk, and 
 the man who actually weighs it on the scales 
 should have a couple of sous for the job. The 
 receipt for luggage is called in Italian " scon- 
 trino," and every pound of it must be paid for. 
 
 One hundred kilos, which is roughly equal to 
 two hundred pounds, is transported for exactly 
 the same price as that of one third-class passen- 
 ger ticket for the same distance ; fifty kilos for 
 half a third-class ticket, and so on. The price 
 of a third-class and a second-class ticket added 
 together is equal to that of a first-class ticket, 
 and you can therefore travel second class with 
 two hundred pounds of luggage, at the rate for 
 which you can travel first class with no lug- 
 gage at all. 
 
 Where there is the least doubt about the 
 fastenings of a trunk it should be corded and 
 sealed, which will be done by the porter for the 
 sum of five or six sous. The cord is not very 
 strong, but if a sealed cord put on by an 
 employee of the company is found broken on 
 arrival, the passenger can refuse to receive the 
 piece of luggage without an examination in the 
 presence of officials, to make sure that nothing 
 has been stolen. Though one hears many 
 stories of robberies during transit, I have trav^ 
 
ITALY 205 
 
 elled all over Italy, and have never met with 
 any loss. The inference is that thieves do not 
 try to tamper with solid boxes which are well 
 closed. 
 
 Most of the express trains on the main lines 
 are so constructed that there is a lavatory 
 between every two compartments, which is a 
 great convenience. At Naples there is a fair 
 restaurant in the station, and hand luggage 
 may safely be left in charge of the head- 
 waiter. Between Naples and Rome there is 
 only one station, Ceprano, where food can be 
 bought, and although the provisions are better 
 than in Naples the fact that the train stops only 
 five minutes leads to a scramble which most 
 travellers prefer to avoid. The trains are usu- 
 ally open half an hour before they start, and 
 it is advisable to take one's place in good 
 time. 
 
 In Italian stations, two minutes before a train 
 starts, which it usually does exactly on time, 
 the train hands cry out, "In vettura! " (all 
 aboard), and all the doors of the carriages are 
 closed, after which the conductor immediately 
 appears and demands the tickets. A shout of 
 " Pronti ! " (ready) is then repeated from end 
 to end of the station; next a shrill pocket 
 
206 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 whistle is heard, and if everything is all right 
 it is answered by a distant horn, with a fine 
 operatic effect. Last of all, a short, sharp 
 whistle from the engine means real business, 
 and the train draws out. The same sequence 
 of sounds precedes the starting of each train, in 
 every station from Piedmont to Sicily. For 
 reasons of economy express trains are over- 
 crowded in Italy, in the travelling season, and 
 it is practically useless to tip the conductor in 
 the hope of securing more room. Six tickets, 
 however, will secure the right to reserve a com- 
 partment in any class, but notice must be given 
 half an hour before the train starts. A label 
 bearing the word " riservato " (reserved) will 
 then be attached to the door, and a party of 
 six persons can thus obtain the use of two seats 
 without paying for them. In any Italian station, 
 if you have reasonable cause of complaint, as 
 for instance, if a reserved carriage is invaded 
 by other travellers, or if more people try to 
 crowd in than a carriage will hold, the best 
 way to do is to appeal at once to the official 
 who wears a red cap. He is the station-master, 
 his authority is absolute, and he is never acces- 
 sible to fees. In Naples and other large cities, 
 two or more station-masters may be on duty 
 
ITALY 207 
 
 at the same time, but they all have red caps 
 with gold braid. 
 
 Italian trains, as a rule, are not heated in 
 winter by steam, but two long copper foot- 
 warmers, filled with hot water, are placed in 
 each compartment, and are taken out and re- 
 placed by fresh ones every two or three hours, 
 according to the stops made. 
 
 When the carriage is in a station, they are 
 brought alongside on trucks, the door of the 
 compartment is thrown open, and the porters 
 inquire whether the passengers wish the foot- 
 warmers to be changed. The phrase is usu- 
 ally " Vuol cambiare gli scaldapiedi ? " to 
 which one answers "si" or "no" as the case 
 may be. 
 
 These porters who change the foot- warmers 
 seem to be, by the way, the only railway 
 employees in Europe, below the rank of a 
 station-master, who never receive any tip, and 
 consequently never expect it. 
 
 At the moment of entering the station at 
 Rome some one of the party should open the 
 window, lean out, and call " Facchino " (porter) 
 holding up two fingers if more than one man is 
 needed to carry the hand luggage. The one 
 who first catches your eye will run alongside 
 
208 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 the carriage, and be ready to open the door as 
 soon as you stop. 
 
 "Whenever your train is crowded, however, 
 it is well to play Ancient Mariner, and hold 
 your porter with your glittering eye, for he 
 may get tired trotting along, as he knows there 
 are plenty more guileless strangers in the other 
 carriages. 
 
 The whole party should get out and keep 
 together until the porter has collected all the 
 things, and then follow him to the gate, where 
 all the tickets must be given up. If you tell 
 the porter the name of your hotel he will 
 guide you to its omnibus, and then you can pay 
 him and send him away. Give the "scon- 
 trino," or receipt for the luggage, to the con- 
 ductor of the omnibus, together with your keys, 
 as all luggage entering the principal cities of 
 Italy is subject to examination by the octroi 
 office. As a matter of fact respectable-looking 
 baggage is never opened, and the conductor will 
 refuse the keys if he knows they are not needed. 
 If you are in a great hurry to get to your hotel, 
 and do not mind the difference of a franc or 
 two, you can leave all your luggage and belong- 
 ings to come in the omnibus, and drive to the 
 hotel in a cab ; but generally it is safer to sit 
 
ITALY 209 
 
 quietly in the omnibus and see the luggage 
 brought out and piled on its top. A short 
 ladder which belongs to the omnibus is hooked 
 against its side, and up this the heaviest boxes 
 are carried, with wonderful quickness, on the 
 shoulders of porters, and are dropped upon the 
 roof of the vehicle with a resounding bang, 
 until it seems as if they must surely come 
 through. The omnibus conductor, who usu- 
 ally speaks a little English, will either pay 
 these porters for you, or will tell you what to 
 give them — the regular rate is four sous for 
 each piece, but they expect a little more if the 
 trunks are very heavy. There is onl}^ one cen- 
 tral station in Rome, as there is in Naples, and 
 what I have said holds good of every principal 
 station in Italy. 
 
 In all Italian time-tables the time is reckoned 
 from midnight to midnight, through the whole 
 twenty-four hours. At first it is puzzling to 
 see that a train will leave or arrive at nineteen 
 o'clock ; but all you have to do is to subtract 
 twelve and the result will be afternoon time; 
 for instance, 16.20 o'clock, with twelve sub- 
 tracted, gives you 4.20 p.m. 
 
 Rome is very different from Naples, in that 
 it is by no means a city of thieves. The cab- 
 
210 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 men are quietly contented with their proper 
 fare and are generally willing to oblige in the 
 matter of stopping a moment in a " course," if 
 you want to post a letter or to buy a bunch 
 of flowers. The legal fare for cabs in Rome 
 is only eighty centesimi the " course " in the 
 daytime, but it is customary to give a lira, 
 especially in the season. If you have one by 
 the hour, the cabby will be perfectly contented 
 with two lire an hour for as long as you want 
 him, with no further tip. There are many cab 
 stands, and should you find a man who satis- 
 fies you, he will be delighted to come to your 
 hotel every morning for orders, and will serve 
 you punctually and well at the tariff rates, be- 
 sides taking a friendly interest in your sight- 
 seeing. If there are four in the party, for 
 comfort and speed it is better to take two small 
 cabs rather than one of the cumbrous old lan- 
 daus that are to be found in some of the 
 squares. The tramAvay system in Rome, as in 
 most of the Italian cities, has developed wonder- 
 fully in the last few years, and the trolley cars 
 are generally clean and quick, although at cer- 
 tain times of the day they are too full for com- 
 fort. 
 
 The streets are not crowded, and in no part 
 
ITALY 211 
 
 of Rome will you see any signs of the human 
 scum which seethes in every corner of Naples. 
 The prices first asked in shops are not usually 
 exorbitant; but you should never forget in 
 Italy that bargaining is a custom of the coun- 
 try, generally looked upon by both buyers and 
 shopkeepers as a reasonable recreation which it 
 would be a pity to forego. Some of the better 
 shops in the Corso and the Via Condotti, as 
 well as the " department stores," such as Boc- 
 coni's, branches of which are found everywhere 
 in Italy, sell only at fixed prices which are 
 plainly marked, and there are also fixed prices 
 for books and photographs; but in ordinary 
 shops of all descriptions the seller expects to 
 make a reduction of ten or fifteen per cent, 
 depending upon the amount of the purchase. 
 It will be found a great convenience and saving 
 of time to carry home small packages one's self, 
 as the arrangements for delivery from the shops 
 are of the most primitive description. 
 
 Antiquaries everywhere are a class apart 
 among shopkeepers, as their wares have no 
 absolutely definite value, and, in consequence, 
 their scale of prices is decidedly sliding. Even 
 thirty years ago it was sometimes possible to 
 pick up treasures for almost nothing, but of 
 
212 EUROPEAK TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 late years Europe has been ransacked by the 
 agents of dealers, and by people who knew 
 both the artistic and commercial values of what 
 they sought. It is almost impossible now to 
 discover good old miniatures, and only a song 
 by Patti or Melba will buy genuine enamels or 
 renaissance ornaments. Some fine lace is still 
 not very dear, but unless you really know about 
 it you will pay more than it is worth. 
 
 Part of your education, if you buy anything 
 except photographs, will be to buy counterfeit 
 curiosities, and you need not be ashamed of it, 
 for they are made so well in these days as to 
 deceive the very elect. If you see a thing you 
 want in the window of a curiosity shop, go in 
 and ask to be allowed to look at it, and if there 
 are a lot of other things which seem to you 
 attractive, buy some trifle for a franc or two, 
 which will give you the freedom of the shop, 
 so to speak, and you will be allowed to stay as 
 long as you choose and rummage for yourself. 
 The only rule I can give to beginners is that, 
 if the price asked for an article is less than that 
 for which it could be made now, it is probably 
 genuine. For instance, if a small piece of deli- 
 cately wrought (not cast) metal costs only a few 
 francs, you may be pretty sure that you have 
 
ITALY 213 
 
 something which is genuine, if not rare ; but 
 when it comes to more important pieces, it is 
 well to have the judgment of some one who 
 knows more than you do. In France, and I 
 think also in Italy, if you can get a dealer to 
 warrant anything on his bill as genuine, you 
 may be pretty sure it is so, for there is a heavy 
 penalty against misrepresentation in such a case, 
 and you should exact this warranty if you buy 
 anything costly. The method of bargaining is 
 simple. You pick up carelessly the thing you 
 want and say, "How much is this?" The 
 dealer names a price. You look surprised and 
 say, " That is too much," put it down, and 
 move away as if you did not really care for it. 
 The dealer will then offer it for somewhat less, 
 whereupon you smile indifferently and say, " No, 
 that is still too dear, I will give you so-and-so." 
 The dealer will then exclaim that that is less 
 than he paid for it, and that it would ruin him 
 to let you have it for such a trifling sum. You 
 look polite, and intimate that in that case you 
 will not deprive him of it, and go toward the 
 door. In nine cases out of ten he will call after 
 you a sum so near yours that you need not mind 
 meeting it, and he thinks all the better of you 
 for having understood how to deal with him. 
 
214 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 If you have strength of mind enough to do it, 
 you may leave the shop and go away, trusting 
 to find the dealer in a more moderate frame of 
 mind the next time you pass, as you probably 
 will. You run the risk, however, if what you 
 want to buy is showy and attractive, that some 
 rich fellow-countrywoman may pass between 
 your visits and carry it off. In Italy there is 
 no law obliging a hall-mark to be put on gold 
 or silver, but the purchaser may require it, 
 and, if he does, the seller is bound to have the 
 object assayed and stamped, without charge. 
 
 It is well to have a bill for everything unless 
 you know the shop very well, as dealers occa- 
 sionally come to one's hotel demanding payment 
 a second time when there is no record. A 
 favourite way of appearing to reduce a price is 
 to offer to pack the article for you beautifully, 
 so that it Avill travel anywhere, without extra 
 charge. Resist this offer, however, because as 
 a rule such packing is carelessly done, and 
 your piece of china or terra-cotta may arrive 
 in minute fragments. Order it sent to your 
 banker, who will have it carefully packed for 
 you by a professional packer ; or else the pack- 
 ing will be done by the American Express 
 Company, which during the last ten years 
 
ITALY 215 
 
 has established offices in ahnost all the large 
 cities of Europe, and you can arrange to have 
 whatever you buy forwarded by it either by 
 express or as freight, the latter being much 
 the better way. If you buy a lot of terra- 
 cotta pots and jars, for instance, they may 
 be packed with fine hay in a large barrel or 
 cask, and sent out as freight to America, 
 either while you are away or after you come 
 home, the express company paying all charges 
 of transport and customs, and delivering them, 
 with the bill, at your house. They will also 
 send your luggage from one part of Europe to 
 another, and between large cities the service is 
 excellent ; but when they must deal with small 
 country railways where any system of express 
 or idea of haste is unknown, they are power- 
 less against the local inertia. A parcel from 
 Paris to Rome, for instance, will often be deliv- 
 ered sooner then one which only has to go 
 from Rome to Sorrento. 
 
 It is absurd to expect to know Rome even 
 tolerably well in a short time, but as that is all 
 that most of us are able to give, some sug- 
 gestions may be useful as to what is best 
 worth seeing pretty thoroughly. It may be 
 most easily studied in a superficial way, 
 
216 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 either archseologically, as a half -buried an- 
 cient city, of which the most valuable part 
 is distinctly traceable, or else as the modern 
 active centre of the Roman Catholic Church. 
 There is a vast amount of interesting material 
 connected with the Middle Ages, but it is hard 
 to find, and harder still to understand. Strictly 
 modern Rome, as the capital of Italy, is rather 
 less interesting than most modern capitals of 
 similar type. Everything which belongs to 
 ancient times is easily accessible, and there are 
 excellent books, both archaeological and his- 
 torical, to be had at the Roman book-sellers', 
 by the aid of which a considerable knowledge 
 of the subject may easily be acquired. 
 
 Through Signor Lanciani's works we may 
 trace the ancient city from its splendour to its 
 fall, and Mr. Marion Crawford's "Ave Roma," 
 which combines history with romance, is a valu- 
 able companion in rambles about its old streets. 
 
 It is another matter to get at any true under- 
 standing of the ecclesiastical organization which 
 extends from Rome to the ends of the world. 
 It is astonishing to find how few people who 
 visit St. Peter's and the Roman basilicas dur- 
 ing the great functions of Holy Week have 
 any intelligent idea of what those ancient cere- 
 
ITALY 217 
 
 monies mean. Yet all of them have their origin 
 in very remote times, and every detail of them 
 is a part of an elaborate symbolism, which 
 extends from the vestments of the priests to the 
 architecture of the churches themselves. There 
 are books to explain these symbols, but few peo- 
 ple have the patience to read them, and by far 
 the best way, when you are in a church, if you 
 can speak any Italian, is to ask questions of the 
 sacristan who is showing it to you, or of any 
 priest who may be in sight. 
 
 They are always courteous, and it is easy to 
 gain all the information one wishes, without 
 entering into questions of religion, as they are 
 pleased by any interest that is shown, and it is 
 only necessary to seem gravely interested, avoid- 
 ing any appearance of levity while speaking 
 of such matters. The sacristan of an Italian 
 church is very often a delightful old person, 
 loving every stone of his building, and knowing 
 every story connected with it, and in that case it 
 is well worth while to talk to him, rather than to 
 wander about by yourself .^ If you see a number 
 of people on their knees, be careful not to pass 
 between them and the altar, especially if a priest 
 
 1 The following remarks apply not only to Kome, but to 
 all Catholic churches in Europe. 
 
218 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 is officiating. Any altar on which the tabernacle 
 is covered with a sort of hood of brocade, and 
 before which lights are burning, is the one in 
 that particular church where the consecrated 
 bread is deposited for the time being, and there 
 are often many people kneeling in prayer before 
 it. It is the presence of the Sacrament which 
 Catholics desire visitors to respect, and when 
 there are no services going on, you may go up 
 the steps of any other altar, even the high one, 
 examine it, and speak in an ordinary tone, as 
 you would in any other part of the church. 
 During the mass, it is at the moment of conse- 
 crating the bread and wine that a little bell is 
 rung several times in succession, to give warn- 
 ing of the fact all over the church, and from 
 that moment many of those who are hearing 
 mass remain on their knees until after the com- 
 munion. During that time, be especially care- 
 ful to be reverent in your manner and do not 
 pass between groups of worshippers. 
 
 Non-Catholics are apt to be shocked at the 
 apparent indifference of Catholics in foreign 
 churches, especially in Italy; this is, however, 
 less noticeable in Rome than elsewhere, perhaps 
 because that city has been for so many centuries 
 the resort of devout persons from all parts of 
 
ITALY 219 
 
 Christendom. In Italy churches have from very 
 early times been places of meeting or resort, 
 with the natural result that the place is treated 
 less reverently than if it were only used at stated 
 times for solemn services. 
 
 The great basilicas are open all day, but 
 many of the smaller and less visited churches 
 are closed from noon until three, and a few are 
 seldom open except on Sunday mornings. 
 
 The parish churches are open from early 
 morning till sunset, and their generally even 
 temperature attracts the poor in cold weather. 
 You should have some loose coppers handy when 
 you visit churches anywhere on the Continent, 
 as there is usually a blind man, a cripple, or a 
 very old woman to lift for you the heavy leather 
 curtain which hangs over the door, and as it 
 shines with the grease of generations of hands, 
 a penny or two is well bestowed on the poor 
 creature who saves you from touching it. 
 
 The ecclesiastical reckoning of the day goes 
 through the twenty -four hours, beginning at the 
 Ave Maria bell, which rings half an hour after 
 sunset, and is altered a quarter of an hour from 
 time to time, as the days lengthen. In Janu- 
 ary it rings at half-past five, but in July not 
 until eight o'clock. 
 
220 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 With regard to seeing ceremonies not now 
 performed in public, or visiting places, like the 
 garden of the Vatican, which are the property 
 of the Holy See, it is not growing any easier to 
 obtain the necessary permits, and it is utterly 
 useless to trouble your embassy or consulate 
 with such requests. A personal introduction to 
 one of the Pope's chamberlains, of whom there 
 are many, or to a prelate in his household, or to 
 any ecclesiastic of high standing in Rome, will 
 procure the desired admission when possible. 
 
 As for attempting to obtain a private audi- 
 ence of the Pope, unless you have some very 
 influential friend attached to the Vatican, it is 
 just so much time thrown away. It is not very 
 easy, either, to obtain a presentation at Court. 
 Those who desire this privilege should always 
 begin by getting an introduction to their am- 
 bassador, in order that in making their request 
 they may be personally known to him, for 
 ambassadors are not in any sense obliged to 
 present their countrymen at the Court to which 
 they are accredited. It is always an unusual 
 privilege, and should be asked for as such. 
 Should it be obtained for you, inform yourself 
 at once of the kind of dress you are expected to 
 wear, which varies according to the time of day, 
 
ITALY 221 
 
 and be careful to conform exactly to the instruc- 
 tions given you by some one thoroughly familiar 
 with the etiquette. Under no circumstances can 
 you appear at Court in mourning ; whereas if 
 you should be received at the Vatican, or are 
 admitted to any of the high ceremonies in the 
 Sistine Chapel, or in St. Peter's, within the bar- 
 rier of reserved seats, you must go entirely in 
 black, and wear a large black lace veil or mantilla 
 pinned to your hair and falling down behind, 
 instead of a hat or bonnet. Your gloves must 
 also be black, but a curious old tradition forbids 
 men to wear any gloves on such occasions. 
 Ladies, by the way, very generally wear black 
 in the streets in Italy, and especially in 
 churches. 
 
 Rome was formerly considered a very un- 
 healthy city, but this is certainly not now the 
 case, as statistics show. Avoid it altogether, 
 however, for the six weeks between the fifteenth 
 of August to the first of October, when the first 
 autumn showers are followed by sultry heat, 
 and produce feverish emanations. At all 
 times avoid stopping to talk, or sitting down 
 in the shade after having been some time 
 in the sun; avoid cold drinks when heated, 
 unless you are going to take more exercise at 
 
222 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 once ; and be careful not to check perspiration 
 suddenly. Never allow yourself to go too long 
 without food ; the Romans eat more meat than 
 any other people in Italy, and the climate 
 requires it. 
 
 Arrange your sight-seeing so that you may 
 be at your hotel in time for luncheon every day, 
 and rest for at least half an hour after it. Take 
 an extra cloak with you, and put it on when 
 you go into a gallery or church, especially in 
 spring, when the outer air is much warmer 
 than that within. In Italy, as in all southern 
 countries, one goes out to get warm, and comes 
 in to get cool. It is a good plan to drive to your 
 sight, and walk back from it, as that will pre- 
 vent any chilliness. Never allow yourself to feel 
 cool at sunset, and never sit down or stand still 
 to look at a view at that time. Be twice as 
 careful outside of Rome, on the Campagna, as 
 in the city itself, for there lies your only real 
 chance of danger, and do not eat overripe fruit, 
 as that is more unhealthy than when it is green. 
 
 One of the traveller's first errands is usually 
 to the post-office. In large Italian cities, the 
 windows of the Poste Restante, from which 
 letters are distributed, are distinguished by 
 letters of the alphabet. If you are expecting to 
 
ITALY 223 
 
 find letters there, present your visiting card at 
 the window corresponding to your initial letter, 
 and say quietly, " Chi sono letter e ? " with no 
 further explanation. Ordinary letters will be 
 delivered to you without question. You may, 
 however, be given a yellow card notifying you 
 of the arrival of a registered letter, which is 
 delivered from another window, marked " Rac- 
 comandate e Valore." It is hopeless to claim 
 it unless you have with you a passport, a letter 
 of credit, or some other official document bear- 
 ing your attested signature, or unless you are 
 accompanied by a person known to the officials, 
 and who will vouch for you. For this reason 
 it is always better and simpler, when practi- 
 cable, to have all your letters addressed to the 
 care of a banker. People often lose patience 
 at the formalities required for identification in 
 foreign post-offices, forgetting that precisely 
 the same proper precautions are taken at 
 home. 
 
 If you wish to register a letter, or book, 
 which should always be done in Italy if the 
 contents are of the least value or importance, 
 find the window marked " Raccomandate, " 
 which is rarely the same as that at which reg- 
 istered letters are delivered. Letters to be 
 
224 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 registered for the Continent are generally 
 required to be sealed with wax with a recog- 
 nizable device or initial ; letters which are to 
 cross the ocean are not allowed, however, to be 
 sealed with wax if registered, on account of the 
 heat in the mail-rooms of transatlantic steamers. 
 You are not required to write your name 
 and address on the envelope, but the clerk asks 
 you for them, enters them in a book, and gives 
 you a receipt. If you send a telegram, by the 
 way, you will be asked by the clerk if you wish 
 a receipt, which, if you take it, costs one sou 
 more than the cost of the telegram. If you go 
 to the office yourself, this is useless, but if you 
 send a despatch from the hotel, or by a mes- 
 senger, you should always require the latter to 
 bring the receipt back with him, and if you use 
 any language except Italian, print the words 
 very plainly, to avoid mistakes. 
 ^ There is no express as we understand it, but 
 you can send parcels of considerable size by 
 what is called " pacco postale." To do this is a 
 complicated matter, involving the filling out of 
 elaborate printed forms, therefore it is better 
 to have it done for you by the friendly 
 " portier " of the hotel. If, however, you have 
 to attend to it yourself, go to the window in 
 
ITALTE 225 
 
 the post-office marked " pacchi postali," and 
 say to the clerk, " Vorrei mandare questo pacco 
 postale a Bologna," or whatever the place may 
 be. 
 
 As many people in Italy cannot read or 
 write, the clerks are used to filling up the 
 blanks for them, or, if you understand Italian, 
 you can manage it yourself. Your parcel must 
 not be sealed with wax when you bring it in, 
 nor closed in such a manner that its contents 
 could not be examined if required. This is 
 because it is forbidden to send tobacco tlirough 
 the mails, by any means whatever. As a mat- 
 ter of fact, your parcel is rarely opened, but is 
 sealed before your eyes with wax and the offi- 
 cial post-office stamp. 
 
 Should you msh to insure a postal package, 
 it must be sewn up in stout linen or cotton 
 cloth, no matter what its size may be, and wax 
 is daubed all along the seam, so that to open it 
 would be impossible. 
 
 Except in one or two large hotels, frequented 
 by rich Americans, prices in Rome are lower 
 than in Paris, and arrangements to go "en pen- 
 sion" easily made. If you mean to be some 
 time there, and have not been directed to an 
 hotel, your best plan will be to stop at one near 
 
226 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 the station over night, and sally out to see 
 rooms and compare prices the next morning. 
 
 Travellers may be broadly divided into two 
 classes, Romans and Florentines, that is, those 
 who distinctly prefer one city to the other. 
 This often seems to depend upon which of the 
 two they have seen first, but it is also the 
 result of the radical difference between the two 
 cities. Florence has practically one connected 
 past which is of interest, from the beginning of 
 the thirteenth to the ending of tlie sixteenth 
 century; whereas in Rome there have been half 
 a dozen periods of great historical value, cover- 
 ing altogether not less than two thousand years, 
 and while you will not find in Rome such 
 isolated objects of beauty as Giotto's Tower, or 
 the Strozzi Palace, the views of the city from 
 the Pincio or the Villa Corsini are incompara- 
 bly beautiful. 
 
 The picture galleries in Florence are glorious, 
 and have the great advantage of having all their 
 treasures collected practically under one roof ; 
 while in Rome a great number of masterpieces 
 are still scattered in private collections, and must 
 be visited separately, and on different days. 
 
 Florence seems much smaller than Rome, and 
 is therefore to many people more homelike, and 
 
ITALY 227 
 
 the country around her, especially in early 
 spring, when the fruit trees are in bloom, is 
 charming, but as she lies in a valley, in summer 
 the heat is sometimes very great. If you are 
 only there for a short time, after you have seen 
 all you can of the galleries, drive to Fiesole and 
 San Miniato, and walk in the older narrow 
 streets of the city, which are some of them 
 being torn down to make way for " modern im- 
 provements." 
 
 If three people have stayed for two weeks in 
 Rome or Florence, the following schedule of 
 tips would be about right, in one of the quiet 
 hotels to which I have referred throughout : 
 the " portier " should have ten francs, also the 
 head waiter ; the waiter of your sitting room, 
 if you had one, five or ten (according to the 
 amount of trouble he has had) ; your dining 
 room waiter, ten to fifteen ; the chambermaid, 
 ten for all your rooms ; and the facchino, five, 
 which includes bringing up and taking down 
 the luggage. 
 
 This is the division of labour in an Italian 
 hotel, or, indeed, anywhere on the Continent: 
 the rule is that you ring once for the waiter, 
 twice for the chambermaid, and three times for 
 the porter. The waiter brings you your break- 
 
228 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 fast in the morning if you wish it in your room, 
 as most people do, and, as it is not safe to drink 
 water indiscriminately, if you are used to iced 
 water at night, you should send for a bottle of 
 some kind of mineral water before you go to 
 bed, and the waiter will bring you that. The 
 chambermaid brings you hot water, your bath, 
 and everything relating to the service of your 
 rooms, and will brush your skirt if you wish it. 
 The porter, or " facchino," attends to your boots, 
 which will be taken away by the chambermaid 
 when she arranges your room in the evening ; 
 he also does any "odd jobs" which may be 
 necessary, such as having your trunks repaired, 
 shoes and umbrellas mended, or anything of 
 that kind. He and another porter will carry 
 up your boxes to your rooms and also take 
 them down when you go away, which you must 
 not forget in his tip. If you have only a 
 couple of trunks, a lira is enough for him, but 
 if there are several pieces and they are heavy, 
 it is not too much to give one when you come 
 and one when you go, which, after all, makes 
 only twenty cents to each man. 
 
 Avoid as much as you can stopping only one 
 night in places, if you wish to be economical, 
 as that is always more expensive than a long 
 
ITALY 229 
 
 stay on account of the tips. You can scarcely 
 leave less than five francs behind you in gratui- 
 ties if you stop over night, which may be thus 
 divided : one franc to the " portier," one to 
 your chambermaid, one to the table d'hote 
 waiter, one to your room waiter, and one to the 
 facchino. 
 
 If you stay more than two or three days in 
 Venice, as you certainly will wish to do, you 
 had better engage a gondolier to be at your ser- 
 vice during your stay. This is easy to do, as 
 any of the men from the stands at the ferries 
 will gladly take such a place. The legal rate 
 is five francs a day for a gondola and one man ; 
 if you want another rower for long expeditions, 
 he is hired extra, and the gondolier expects a 
 franc or a franc and a half a day, " buonamano " 
 or "pourboire." For this modest sum he will 
 be at your service from early in the morning 
 until late at night, and will cheerfully tell you 
 the name of every church and palace as you pass 
 them. The Venetian gondolier is as simple and 
 kindly a creature as the Roman or Florentine 
 cabby, and we hear occasionally now from our 
 last one, whose name, literally translated, is 
 Christmas Shoe. There is a tide in the Adri- 
 atic, although not in the Mediterranean, there- 
 
230 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 fore, when you go out in the morning, ask your 
 gondolier, or the hotel "portier," if you do not 
 speak Italian, whether the tide is high or low, 
 for it rises and falls in Venice about two feet, 
 and the smaller canals and water alleys, so to 
 speak, smell vilely at low water, especially in 
 warm weather. If the tide is low in the morn- 
 ing, it must be high in the afternoon, there- 
 fore you should arrange your day so as to be in 
 the galleries or large churches during the low 
 water, and make exploring expeditions when 
 the canals are full. 
 
 Venice is probably more infested than any 
 city in the world with touts, guides, and itiner- 
 ant vendors. If you stop for a moment under 
 the arcades which surround the square of St. 
 Mark's, to look into a shop window, unless it 
 belongs to one of the better class of jewellers or 
 book- sellers, its proprietor will promptly emerge 
 from within and implore you in oily English to 
 come and see how much better and cheaper his 
 goods are than those you will find anywhere 
 else. If you hesitate, you are lost, and will 
 certainly end by getting something you do not 
 want, at five times its value. Look steadily 
 and stolidly in front of you as if you were stone 
 deaf. This has a disheartening effect, and he 
 
ITALY 231 
 
 will probably retreat. The guides who wish to 
 show you St. Mark's Church pursue you within 
 its very doors, and the gentlest tourist must 
 resort to a fierce shake of the finger and an 
 energetic "Ya via! " (get out). Your gondo- 
 lier will always be willing to leave his boat 
 when you alight, and will go with you into any 
 church that you wish to see ; he may or may 
 not know much about that particular place 
 (although an Italian is intensely proud of his 
 native city and apt to know a good deal about 
 its historic monuments), but in any case he 
 will be useful as a body-guard to keep off the 
 swarms of guides and beggars, and he will do 
 so with an eloquence of vituperation which you 
 could never hope to equal. 
 
 Into the museums and picture galleries the 
 street guides dare not follow you, but there it 
 becomes a question as to whether or not it is 
 wise to ask questions of the " custodi " who are 
 in charge of the different rooms. If you do not 
 wish to take the trouble of poring over a cata- 
 logue, they are sometimes of use, as they natu- 
 rally know every object in the place where 
 they spend their lives ; but, on the other hand, 
 they may be terrible nuisances. To walk 
 through a picture gallery with a half-educated 
 
232 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 man at yonr elbow, giving you volubly inaccu- 
 rate information about the paintings or draw- 
 ings, is trying ; but, on the other hand, in small 
 local museums where all sorts of things are col- 
 lected, a friendly guardian will call your atten- 
 tion to something you would certainly have 
 overlooked by yourself. After all, it comes 
 down largely to a question of temperament. 
 Some people are exasperated by that sort of 
 interference, but others are so anxious to learn 
 everything they can that they accept it without 
 being annoyed. Some member of a party 
 usually seems to be marked out by nature for the 
 attentions of these guardians, for one will im- 
 mediately fasten himself upon her and dog her 
 steps, while her companions go free, and prob- 
 ably jeer at her from a distance. 
 
 Many of the smaller Italian cities may be 
 seen in a few hours, without sleeping in them, 
 if they are taken on the way between two 
 larger ones, for in Italy, as in England, it is 
 almost impossible to go twenty miles without 
 finding some place at which you want to 
 stop. 
 
 Suppose you leave a large city at eight or 
 nine o'clock in the morning, sending your 
 luggage through to the other large town at 
 
ITALY 233 
 
 which you mean to sleep. You reach the small 
 place in an hour or two, before it is time 
 for the midday breakfast, and get out at the 
 station. 
 
 As you appear, a few cabbies drowsing in the 
 sun will suddenly wake up and come franti- 
 cally toward you. Choose the one who has the 
 best horse and cleanest cab, tell him that you 
 will take him by the hour, — a piece of extrava- 
 gance which in most small towns will cost you 
 twenty-five cents, — and, having found out be- 
 forehand in Baedeker which is the best hotel, go 
 there first. Say that you will be back for the 
 table d'hote breakfast, and leave any parcels or 
 wraps which you do not want. 
 
 If you are not quite sure just what you want 
 to see, go first to the best local bookseller, buy 
 a guide of the place, and also ask to look over 
 his album of local photographs. Then, if you 
 see anything striking, you can ask about it, and 
 either buy your photographs then or after you 
 have seen the original. Let me advise you 
 never to throw away your photographs of 
 places, because they become more valuable with 
 time. I once cleared out a great many photo- 
 graphs of Rome which were taken thirty 
 years ago, and have regretted it ever since ; 
 
234 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 as the city lias greatly changed, the comparison 
 with modern ones would have been extremely 
 interesting. 
 
 Go to see the churches and museums as early 
 as possible, for they are sometimes closed in the 
 afternoon. When you get back to the hotel 
 to have your breakfast you may tell your cabby 
 that you will take him again at such a time in 
 the afternoon, and he will be only too delighted 
 to return. 
 
 After luncheon take a little drive around the 
 town, which will not only rest you but give you 
 a distinct impression of it ; then go on with your 
 sight-seeing if you choose, and get to the station 
 in good time to pick up the through train for 
 your destination, You will often find some 
 difficulty in getting seats together in these 
 trains which you tap at small stations, but that 
 is a small drawback compared to the pleasure 
 you will have had in your day. 
 
 If you wish to stop at a town for a few hours, 
 you may find that you will reach it at one o'clock 
 or half past, in which case it is a great saving 
 of time to have your luncheon in the train, so 
 that when you arrive you may have your whole 
 time free, and for a small charge you may have 
 your hand luggage in the " deposito," or parcel- 
 
ITALY 235 
 
 room, of the station, and collect it when you 
 take your train. 
 
 You cannot travel on the Continent without 
 taking the church holidays into consideration, 
 and it is worth while to buy a calendar and 
 keep account of them, as in Catholic countries 
 they make a great difference. 
 
 Many cities have their patron saints, whose 
 feast days are elaborately observed. The 25th of 
 April is Saint Mark's Day, as I shall always re- 
 member now, because once we were so stupid as 
 to get to Venice the day after, when we might 
 just as well have been there the day before. 
 
 The feast of the Redentore, or Redeemer, 
 which comes on the 17th of July, is also inter- 
 esting at Venice, as there is a bridge of boats, 
 and the gondoliers have races in which the men 
 from the different quarters of the city show 
 great rivalry. 
 
 There is also a very curious ceremony outside 
 the Cathedral of Florence on Easter Eve — but 
 the list of these celebrations is almost endless, 
 and you must try to learn about them as you 
 go along. All great festivals are close holidays 
 so far as business is concerned ; so do not let 
 yourself run short of money, as no banker's will 
 be open. 
 
236 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 If one of your party should be taken ill any- 
 where, ask the " portier " who are the American 
 or English physicians in the place, and decide 
 upon one of them. If there are no foreign 
 practitioners, do not trust to the advice of 
 the hotel keeper as to your choice, because, 
 although in nine cases out of ten he would 
 probably tell you the best man, if, on the tenth, 
 his own brother should be in the profession, as 
 might well happen, the temptation to recom- 
 mend him would perhaps be too strong. Go 
 at once to the American or English consul for 
 advice, and if there is none, go to the largest 
 local hospital, ask who is the best doctor, and 
 send for him. If you are in any doubt as to 
 the nature of the ailment, beg him to tell you 
 at once whether it is anything contagious, and 
 if it should be, ask him what you are to do. 
 If he is a reputable practitioner he will save 
 you much trouble, and as a rule there are more 
 good people than knaves in the world, and not 
 many men of decent standing will deliberately 
 take advantage of women if they are put upon 
 their honour. But I am bound to warn you 
 that I have heard very grim tales of hardship 
 and extortion in just such cases of contagious 
 disease, where the physician was more than 
 
ITALY 237 
 
 supposed to have been in league with the 
 hotel keeper. If you have any reason to think 
 that you have fallen on any such evil case, you 
 had better send for the " sindaco " or " maire," 
 who is the highest local authority, or go to his 
 office, and state your case to him. 
 
 Obey any regulation which may be imposed 
 on you, and do not be unreasonable, for you 
 must remember that it is a very serious thing 
 for a hotel keeper to have a case of contagious 
 disease in his house, and one against which he 
 has a right to protect himself and his other 
 lodgers. 
 
 In case of death, the mayor, or your banker, 
 if you know no one else, can always at least tell 
 you of a reputable undertaker, and also with 
 which forms you are expected to comply. 
 
 Having given this warning, I think it only 
 fair to say that, although my different visits 
 to Europe cover now a period of more than 
 thirty years, I have never personally met any 
 instance in an hotel of anything but cordial 
 sympathy and cheerful service in a case of 
 illness. 
 
 Many women who Avould like to go to Sicily 
 are deterred because they think the travelling 
 is likely to be rough, and that there is still 
 
238 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 danger of brigands. Both these ideas are erro- 
 neous, at least as regards any place where you 
 are likely to want to go. In the country back 
 of Etna there are brigands still, plenty of them, 
 notwithstanding the assurances of the hotel 
 keepers near the coast that brigandage is quite 
 extinct ; but supposing that you wish to get a 
 general idea of the island, you can do so quite 
 well without leaving the line of railway except 
 for a very short distance, and railways are as 
 discouraging to brigands as running water to 
 witches. 
 
 As to the best time for your visit, the ideal 
 season is, of course, in March or early April, 
 when everything is in the glory of the southern 
 spring, but any time after the 1st of January 
 is delightful. November and December are 
 often wet, but after the first of the year the 
 climate is fresh, yet never with any approach 
 to frost, and it is distinctly warm in the sun. 
 The hotels are good, and the people compare 
 favourably with those on the mainland ; they 
 are dignified, sometimes almost taciturn, and 
 often very handsome. 
 
 It may be that in twenty or thirty years the 
 island may be as overrun by tourists as central 
 Italy is now, but for the present it is not, and 
 
ITALY 239 
 
 it is full of interest and charm. The dialect 
 is almost unintelligible to strangers, but nearly 
 all the peasants can speak a little " high Ital- 
 ian," which they do very clearly. 
 
 Steamers of the " Navigazione Generale Sici- 
 liana" leave Naples every evening about eight 
 o'clock, getting to Palermo at half-past seven 
 the next morning. Find out before you go 
 which boat is the best, as there is usually a 
 choice, and if you can get a card of introduc- 
 tion from your banker at Naples, or your hotel 
 keeper, to the office of the steamship company, 
 it will be an advantage, because the cabins are 
 very much crowded with berths, and in order 
 to be at all comfortable two people must take a 
 cabin meant nominally for four, but with the 
 help of a little influence you will probably not 
 have to pay for more than two places. 
 
 You may dine comfortably at Naples before 
 you go, and breakfast at Palermo next morning. 
 The crossing is a lottery. In fine weather it is 
 quite smooth, but there is often a queer little 
 twisting sea which makes a disagreeable motion, 
 something like that of the English Channel. 
 Although the steamers are not large, they do 
 not go up to the dock at Palermo, and you are 
 landed in open boats as at Naples. There is a 
 
240 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 custom-house there through which you must 
 pass, although you are still in Italy, but it is 
 not annoying. 
 
 The guide-books all unite as to the best hotel 
 in Palermo, which is the one, by the way, in 
 which Richard Wagner died, and its proprietor 
 has relatives who keep most of the other hotels 
 in the towns to which you will be likely to go 
 during your trip. 
 
 A month or six weeks is certainly not too long 
 for anything like a satisfying visit to Sicily ; 
 but, on the other hand, if you can only give it 
 a fortnight, you will come away with a very 
 distinct impression, and, unless you have very 
 bad luck, exceedingly pleasant memories. 
 
 If you are there in early spring you will have 
 the glory of the fruit blossoms, but, as you can- 
 not have everything, the orange season will be 
 over ; if, however, your visit is during mid- 
 winter, their season will be at its height, and no- 
 body who has not been where they grow knows 
 how good the mandarin orange can be when it 
 is eaten warm off its bough. 
 
 There is a dealer in Palermo who advertises 
 in all the hotels, and he will send boxes of man- 
 darins, prepaid, for a very few francs, to any 
 address in France, Germany, Italy, or England, 
 
ITALY 241 
 
 which is a very easy way of giving pleasure to 
 friends who have been kind to one. 
 
 One thing is worth remembering in Sicily. 
 If you want to get any money, allow yourself 
 plenty of time. Over the door of any banking 
 house on the island should be inscribed, " Who 
 enters here leaves haste behind." You are 
 treated with the utmost courtesy, but their 
 methods are deliberate. After you have given 
 up your letter of credit, you wait and wait until 
 you feel as if they must have had time enough 
 to send it back to London or Paris ; then, after 
 you have signed the slip of paper, you wait 
 again for another age until your money comes. 
 In one town it took me exactly one hour 
 and twenty minutes to get a few hundred 
 lire. 
 
 If you are short of time, in a week you can see 
 Palermo and its environs fairly well, although 
 there are many expeditions which would take 
 you longer. That to the ruins of the temple 
 of Segesta is one of the most interesting, but to 
 make it involves a very hard day's work, as you 
 must leave the railway station at Palermo at a 
 quarter before six in the morning and will not 
 get back until a quarter before nine at night ; 
 the alternative being to sleep at a small village 
 
242 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 a few miles from the temple, which is not 
 recommended. 
 
 In a fortnight you can easily make the fol- 
 lowing trip: from Palermo to Girgenti, it is 
 seven hours by rail, and you will want to stay 
 about two days ; from Girgenti to Catania is 
 about the same time, and one day is enough for 
 there ; from Catania to Syracuse is about three 
 hours, and there you will want several days ; 
 from Syracuse you go to Taormina (passing 
 through Catania again) in five hours, and if you 
 have good weather you will probably want to 
 stay there as long as you can, for it is an en- 
 chantingly beautiful place. Taormina is only 
 two hours from Messina, which has no good 
 hotel, so you can leave the former place in the 
 morning, and see the sights of Messina in a few 
 hours. A little boat leaves there every after- 
 noon at half-past five which crosses to Reggio, 
 on the Calabrian mainland, in three quarters 
 of an hour, and connects with the through 
 night train for Rome, which has sleeping-cars 
 modelled on ours. You may take your tickets 
 in Messina, and if you wish to rush straight 
 through, you will be in Rome by three o'clock 
 next day ; but you will be wiser to break the 
 journey at La Cava or Naples, and if you 
 
ITALY 243 
 
 stop at La Cava you can easily go to Psestum, 
 and will then have seen all the finest classic 
 ruins outside of Greece. 
 
 SOME BOOKS ABOUT ITALY 
 
 A star (*) means that a book is of portable size, and useful 
 for local reference. 
 
 T. means that it is published in the Tauchnitz edition. 
 
 Der Cicerone, J. Burckhardt. 
 
 The Renaissance of Art in Italy (2 vols.), Mrs. Mark 
 
 Pattison. Macraillan. 
 Renaissance Fancies and Studies, Vernon Lee. Putnam. 
 Studies of Travel in Italy, E. A. Freeman. Putnam. 
 Italian Popular Tales, F. T. F. Crane. Macmillan. 
 Italian Journeys, W. D. Howells. Houghton & Mifflin. 
 Notes of Travel and Study in Italy, Charles Eliot 
 
 Norton. Houghton & Mifflin. 
 Italian Byways, J. A. Symonds. Smith & Elder. 
 North Italian Folk, Mrs. Comyn Carr. Chatto & Windus. 
 The Architecture of the Renaissance in Italy. Wm. J. 
 
 Anderson. Scribner. 
 History of Painting, L. Lanzi. (Bohn library, 3 vols.) 
 
 Macmillan. 
 *Early Italian Painters, Mrs. Jameson. 
 Sketches and Studies in Italy by J. A. Symonds: The 
 
 Renaissance in Italy ; Age of the Despots ; Revival 
 
 of Learning; The Fine Arts. Scribner. 
 Studies of the Eighteenth Century in Italy, Yernon 
 
 Lee. 
 Diary of an Idle Woman in Italy, Mrs. Elliot. T. 
 Venetian Life, W. D. Howells. T. 
 
244 EUEOPEAN travp:l for women 
 
 Venice, an Historical Sketch, Horatio Brown. Putnam. 
 
 Life on the Lagoons, Horatio Brown. Putnam, 
 
 La Peinture en Europe ; Venise. Lafenestre & Richten- 
 
 berger. (Also in English. Scribner.) 
 The Makers of Venice, Mrs. Oliphant. Macmillan. 
 Venetian Painters of the Renaissance, B. Berenson. 
 
 Putnam. 
 Venise, Ch. Yriarte. 
 
 The Stones of Venice, Ruskin. George Allen. 
 *St. Mark's Rest, Ruskin. George Allen. 
 Venice, Alethaea Wiel. Putnam. 
 *Walks in Florence: Churches, Streets, and Palaces, 
 
 S. and J. Horner. King. 
 *Mornings in Florence, Ruskin. George Allen. 
 The Makers of Florence, Mrs. Oliphant. Macmillan. 
 Florentine Painters of the Renaissance, B. Berenson. 
 
 Putnam. 
 La Peinture en Europe ; Florence. Lafenestre & Richt- 
 
 enberger. (Also in English.) Scribner. 
 Tuscan Cities, W. D. Howells. T. 
 Italian Painters, G. Morelli (2 vols.). Murray. 
 Histoire de I'Art Pendant la Renaissance, Italic (3 vols.), 
 
 E. Miintz. 
 Leonard da Vinci, E. Miintz. 
 Tuscan Republics, Bella Duffy. Putnam. 
 The Story of Perugia, M. Symonds and L. Duff Gordon. 
 
 Macmillan. 
 *Roman History, Dr. Julius Koch. Macmillan. 
 Pagan and Christian Rome, R. Lanciani. Houghton & 
 
 Mifflin. 
 Ruins and Excavations of Ancient Rome, R. Lanciani. 
 
 Houghton & Mifflin. 
 *Destruction of Ancient Rome, R. Lanciani. Macmillan. 
 Manual of Roman Antiquities, Ramsay and Lanciani. 
 
 Macmillan. 
 
ITALY 245 
 
 Handbook to Christian and Ecclesiastical Rome, H. M. 
 
 and M. A. R. T. Adam Black. 
 *Part I. The Christian Monuments. Part II. The 
 Liturgy. Part III. Monasticism in Rome. Part 
 IV. Ecclesiastical Rome. 
 Musees de Rome, Plelbig. Baedeker. 
 Rome of To-day and Yesterday, J. T. Dennie. Putnam. 
 The Makers of Modern Rome, Mrs. Oliphant. Macmillan. 
 *Ave Roma Immortalis, Studies from the Chronicles of 
 
 Rome, F. Marion Crawford. Macmillan. 
 Roba di Roma (2 vols.), W. W. Story. Chapman & 
 
 Hall. 
 The Tragedy of the Caesars, S. Baring Gould. Scribner. 
 Promenades dans Rome, De Stendhal. 
 Rome, Arthur Gilman. Putnam. 
 Pilgrimage of the Tiber, W. Davies. Sampson Low. 
 *Promenades Archeologiques, Rome et Pompeii. G. 
 
 G. Boissier. (Also in English.) Putnam. 
 * Walks in Rome, Augustus J. C. Hare. Macmillan. 
 *Days near Rome, Augustus J. C. Hare. Macmillan. 
 Pompeii, Its Life and Art, A. Mau. Macmillan. 
 *Cities of Southern Italy and Sicily, Augustus J. C. Hare. 
 Wander j ah re in Italien (4 vols.), F. Gregorovius. 
 Die Insel Capri, F. Gregorovious. 
 Picturesque Sicily, W. A. Paton. Harper. 
 Diary of an Idle Woman in Sicily, Mrs. Elliot. T. 
 Pictures from Sicily, W. N. Bartlett. T. Nelson & Sons. 
 Sicily, E. A. Freeman. Putnam. 
 Naples in the Nineties, E. Neville-Rolfe. Macmillan. 
 Stories of Naples and the Camorra, Charles Grant. 
 
 Macmillan. 
 Modern Italy, Pietro Orsi. Putnam. 
 
246 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 A FEW NOVELS 
 
 First Century 
 
 The Gladiators Whyte Melville. T. 
 
 Quo Vadis H. Sienkiewicz. T. 
 
 The Burning of Rome A. J. Church. 
 
 Last Days of Pompeii Bulwer Lytton. T. 
 
 Second Century 
 Valerius J. G. Lockhart. 
 
 Third Century 
 Callista Cardinal Newman. T. 
 
 Fourth Century 
 Homo Sum Georg Ebers. 
 
 Fifth Century 
 Fabiola Cardinal Wiseman. 
 
 Sixth Century 
 
 Antonina, or the Fall of Rome . Wilkie Collins. T. 
 
 Belisaire J. F. Marmontel. 
 
 Ein Kampf um Rom Felix Dahn. 
 
 Fourteenth Century 
 
 Marco Visconti (also in English) . . Tommaso Grossi. 
 Rienzi Bulwer Lytton. T. 
 
 Fifteenth Century 
 
 Ettore Fieramosca (also in English) Massimo d' Azeglio. 
 
 Komola George Eliot. T. 
 
 Isabella Orsini (also in English) . Francesco Guerrazzi. 
 
ITALY 247 
 
 Sixteenth Century 
 Beatrice Cenci (also in English) . Francesco Guerrazzi. 
 
 Catherine de' Medici T. A. Trollope. 
 
 Die Schlacht von Marignano . . Karl von Witzleben. 
 
 Seventeenth Century 
 I Promessi Sposi (also in English) . Alessandro Manzoni 
 
 Nineteenth Century 
 
 Doctor Antonio Giovanni Ruffini. T. 
 
 Mademoiselli Mori (Rome) . . Margaret Roberts. T. 
 
 A Roman Singer F. Marion Crawford. T. 
 
 Pascarel (Florence) Ouida. T. 
 
 A Foregone Conclusion (Venice) . W. D. Howells. T. 
 Transformation (The Marble Faun) 
 
 Nathaniel Hawthorne. T. 
 Adam Johnstone's Son (Amalfi) 
 
 F. Marion Crawford. T. 
 
 Children of the King (Sorrento) F. Marion Crawford. T. 
 
 In Maremma (Tuscany) Ouida. T. 
 
SOME TERMS USED DIFFERENTLY IN AMERICA 
 AND IN ENGLAND 
 
 American 
 
 English 
 
 Baggage. 
 
 Luggage. 
 
 Baggage car. 
 
 Luggage van. 
 
 Car (railroad). 
 
 Carriage. 
 
 Cars. 
 
 Train. 
 
 Conductor. 
 
 Guard. 
 
 Depot. 
 
 Station. 
 
 Engineer. 
 
 Engine driver. 
 
 Freight train. 
 
 Goods train. 
 
 Locomotive. 
 
 Engine. 
 
 On board a train. 
 
 In a train. 
 
 Railroad. 
 
 Railway. 
 
 Rails. 
 
 Metals. 
 
 Side-track. 
 
 Siding. 
 
 Switchman. 
 
 Pointsman. 
 
 The railroad track. 
 
 The line. 
 
 Ticket office. 
 
 Booking oflBce. 
 
 Ties. 
 
 Sleepers. 
 
 To switch. 
 
 To shunt. 
 
 Way or accommodation train. 
 
 Slow or Parliamentary train. 
 
 Alcohol. 
 
 Spirits of wine. 
 
 Bedspread. 
 
 Counterpane, coverlet. 
 
 Board fence. 
 
 Hoarding. 
 
 Bowl. 
 
 Basin. 
 
 Bug. 
 
 Bed-bug only. 
 
 Bureau. 
 
 Chest of drawers. 
 
 Parlour. 
 
 Drawing-room. 
 
 249 
 
250 
 
 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Piazza. 
 Pitcher 
 
 Window-shade. 
 Yard (ground in front of 
 house). 
 
 Calico. 
 
 Hardware. 
 
 Muslin. 
 
 Notions. 
 
 Dry goods. 
 
 Store. 
 
 Spool (of cotton). 
 
 Druggist, apothecary. 
 
 Drummer. 
 
 Lawyer. 
 
 Veranda. 
 Jug, ewer. 
 Blind. 
 Garden, lawn. 
 
 Print. 
 Ironmongery. 
 
 Cotton cloth. 
 
 Haberdashery. 
 
 Drapery. 
 
 Shop. 
 
 Reel. 
 
 Chemist. 
 
 Commercial traveller. 
 
 Solicitor, barrister. 
 
 Check-rein. 
 Hack, hackman. 
 Horse-car. 
 Lines. 
 
 Span (of horses). 
 Stage (a vehicle) . 
 Waggon (except 
 work). 
 
 for heavy 
 
 Chickens (when full grown). 
 
 Corn. 
 
 Cracker. 
 
 Hash. 
 
 Pie. 
 
 Rare (in cooking). 
 
 Bearing-rein. 
 
 Cab, cabby. 
 
 Tram. 
 
 Reins. 
 
 A pair. 
 
 Omnibus. 
 
 Carriage, cart, trap. 
 
 Hens, fowls. 
 
 Indian corn, maize. i 
 
 Biscuit. 
 
 Mince. 
 
 Generally used for meat pies, 
 or cherry or apple. A pie 
 must have a covered top 
 of pastry — most fruit pies 
 are called tarts. 
 
 Underdone. 
 
 1 The word " corn " in England usually means wheat. 
 
EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 251 
 
 Dessert. 
 
 Only fruit, nuts, etc. 
 
 Dining-room (inliotels). 
 
 Coffee-room. 
 
 Lunch. 
 
 Luncheon, used only for a 
 
 
 meal in the middle of the 
 
 
 day. 
 
 A reception. 
 
 An "At Home." 
 
 Corsets. 
 
 Stays. 
 
 Derby (hat). 
 
 Billy-cock, pot hat. 
 
 Dress. 
 
 Frock or gown (frock for day 
 
 
 time, gown for evening). 
 
 Fleshy. 
 
 Stout, fat. 
 
 Prince Albert coat. 
 
 Frock coat. 
 
 Shirt-waist. 
 
 Blouse. 
 
 Sacque. 
 
 Jacket. 
 
 Silk hat. 
 
 Tall hat. 
 
 To rip. 
 
 To unpick. 
 
 Vest. 
 
 Waistcoat. 
 
 Waist (of a gown). 
 
 Bodice, body. 
 
 Chambermaid (except in 
 
 Housemaid. 
 
 hotels) . 
 
 
 Laundress. 
 
 Washerwoman. 
 
 Second man. 
 
 Footman. 
 
 Scrubwoman. 
 
 Charwoman. 
 
 Waiter (except in hotels). 
 
 Butler. 
 
 Waitress. 
 
 Parlourmaid. 
 
 Back of (as of a house). 
 
 Behind. 
 
 Balance (of time, etc.). 
 
 Remainder. 
 
 Cane. 
 
 Walking-stick. 
 
 Check. 
 
 Cheque. 
 
 Dirt (garden mould). 
 
 Earth, soil. 
 
 Editorial. 
 
 Leader. 
 
 Elevator. 
 
 Lift. 
 
252 
 
 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Gripsack. 
 
 Travelling-bag. 
 
 Kerosene. 
 
 Paraffin. 
 
 Lot (of land). 
 
 Plot. 
 
 Lumber. 
 
 Timber. 
 
 Mat (of a photograph). 
 
 Mount. 
 
 Mucilage. 
 
 Liquid gum, gum. 
 
 Propeller. 
 
 Screw. 
 
 Rock. 
 
 Only a very large stone, 
 
 
 boulder. 
 
 Rooster. 
 
 Cock. 
 
 Rubbers, arctics. 
 
 Overshoes, goloshes. 
 
 Side-wheel. 
 
 Paddle. 
 
 Smoke-stack. 
 
 Funnel. 
 
 Sorrel (horse). 
 
 Chestnut. 
 
 Telegraph blank. 
 
 Telegraph form. 
 
 Vine. 
 
 Grape-vine only. Other 
 
 
 creeping plants are " creep- 
 
 
 ers." 
 
 Guess. 
 
 Only used as for guessing 
 
 
 riddles or puzzles; never 
 
 
 as "I suppose." 
 
 Fix. 
 
 Arrange, settle, see to. 
 
 To hunt. 
 
 Only riding to hounds — 
 
 
 never shooting. 
 
 Mad. 
 
 Angry. 
 
 Right away. 
 
 Directly. 
 
 Shortage. 
 
 Deficiency. 
 
 Sick (except for nausea). 
 
 111. 
 
 To mail. 
 
 To post. 
 
 To presume. 
 
 To suppose, surmise. 
 
 To ride. 
 
 Used only for riding a 
 
 
 bicycle or on an animal. 
 
 To run a business. 
 
 To manage, carry on. 
 
 To ship. 
 
 To send by land as well as 
 
 
 by sea. 
 
 Wilt. 
 
 Wither, fade. 
 
EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 253 
 
 FRENCH WORDS SOMETIMES MISTRANSLATED i 
 
 Agr§ment. Pleasure, enjoyment. Never an agreement 
 
 in the English sense. 
 
 Amusant. Interesting. Often wrongly translated 
 
 amusing. 
 
 AnimaL Not necessarily a quadruped. Birds, rep- 
 
 tiles, etc., are " des animaux " in French. 
 
 Apologie. A vindication, a justification of one's acts. 
 
 It never means an apology in the modern 
 English sense. 
 
 Appointement. The salary of an employ^. Never a ren- 
 dezvous or engagement. 
 
 Assister. Means to be present at, as well as to help. 
 
 Avis. Not advice, but opinion. Also a public 
 
 notice or warning, or the prefatory 
 note to a book. 
 
 Braye. Honest, worthy, good-hearted. Not neces- 
 
 sarily courageous. 
 
 Bureau. An office for the transaction of business. 
 
 Never a chest of drawers. 
 
 Caution. A bail bond. Never used to signify cir- 
 
 cumspection or foresight. 
 
 Cit6. Not a city as we understand the word, but 
 
 some central part of a town, originally 
 fortified. The "City" of London is 
 used in the French sense. It also 
 often means a large court with houses 
 around it. 
 
 Controle. A record or verification. The verb "con- 
 
 trSler " means to verify a cheque or 
 record. 
 
 iMost of these definitions were made by Mr. i^'rederick Keppel. 
 
254 
 
 EUROPEAN TPwAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 Courtier. A broker, not a frequenter of royalty. The 
 
 latter is "un courtisan." 
 
 Defense. A formal interdiction or prohibition. Rarely 
 
 the defending of anything. 
 
 Defiance. Suspicion. 
 
 Defiant. Suspicious. 
 
 Document. Any record. A sketch for some detail of a 
 picture is a "document." 
 
 Editeur. A publisher. Never an editor in the English 
 
 sense. The French word for the latter is 
 *' rMacteur." 
 
 Enerv6. Nervous, not enervated. 
 
 Hommage. Often used to characterize any gift or present 
 given to an equal. It has no suggestion 
 of lord and yassal, as homage has in 
 English. 
 
 Juste. Not so much just as scanty, barely sufficient. 
 
 It is also the term to describe music which 
 is in tune. 
 
 Large. Broad only, not big in general. 
 
 Lecture. The art of reading. Never a lecture in the 
 
 English sense. The latter is "una con- 
 ference." 
 
 Maniaque. Not an insane person, but one who is un- 
 reasonably particular and crotchety. 
 
 Mignonette. Pepper ground coarse ; also a very fine kind 
 of lace. The flower is in French called 
 "r^s^da." 
 
 Misdre. Extreme poverty only. The word does not 
 
 describe other sorts of misery. 
 
 Monument Any notable edifice. A cathedral, palace, or 
 fine bridge is a "monument." 
 
 Office. (As a masculine noun.) A religious cere- 
 
 mony. Never a place for the transaction 
 of business. 
 
 Office. As a feminine noun.) A room to contain 
 
 table utensils and eatables, a pantry. 
 
EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 255 
 
 Parent. Any blood relation. In France a second 
 
 cousin is a "parent" as much as a 
 
 father or mother. 
 Partition. A full musical score with all the parts. 
 
 Never a slight division between two 
 
 spaces. 
 Pr6tendre. To assert formally. To claim as a right. 
 
 It never means to simulate. 
 Romance. A short song set to music. Never a work 
 
 of fiction. 
 Sauvage. (As an adjective.) Not savage, but simply 
 
 wild, shy, unsociable. Any animal or 
 
 plant in its wild state is *' sauvage." 
 Sinistre. (As a noun. ) A great disaster, such as a 
 
 conflagration or an explosion. The 
 
 word has no suggestion of wickedness. 
 Spirituel. (As an adjective.) Witty, intellectually 
 
 delicate and expert. It can rarely be 
 
 translated spiritual. 
 Vacation. The time occupied by some public function. 
 
 It never means a holiday. 
 Vilain. (Adjective.) Ugly, unsightly. There is no 
 
 suggestion of villany. 
 
256 
 
 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 COMPARISON OF RifeAUMUR, 
 FAHRENHEIT AND CENTI- 
 GRADE THERMOMETERS 
 
 I. To reduce Reaumur degrees to 
 Fahrenheit, — 
 
 1. Multiply the number of Reaumur 
 degrees by 9. 
 
 2. Divide the product by 4. 
 
 3. Add 32°. 
 
 The result is the corresponding num- 
 ber of Fahrenheit degrees. 
 
 Example. — The Reaumur ther- 
 mometer reads 8°. 
 
 8 X 9 = 72 ; ^ = 18 ; 18 + 32 = 60. 
 4 
 
 That is, 8° R. = 50° F. 
 
 II. To reduce Centigrade degrees to 
 Fahrenheit, — 
 
 1. Multiply the number of Centigrade 
 degrees by 9. 
 
 2. Divide the product by 5. 
 
 3. Add 32°. 
 
 The result is the corresponding num- 
 ber of Fahrenheit degrees. 
 
 Example. — The Centigrade ther- 
 mometer reads 10°. 
 
 9 X 10 = 90 ; '^ = 18 ; 18 + 32 = 50. 
 That is, 10° C. = 50° F. 
 
EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 257 
 
 MEASURES 
 
 Continental 
 
 American 
 
 1 metre 
 
 1 centimetre 
 
 39 inches 
 
 rather less than 
 
 half an inch 
 f of a mile, so that, 
 
 roughly speaking, 
 
 2 kilometres are 
 
 l\ miles 
 
 I trifle over 2 
 
 pounds 
 
 The "metre" and "gramme" are 
 rarely added, being supposed to be 
 understood. If you are told that a 
 place is "5 kilos away" you may 
 know it is about 3 miles — if you 
 want to buy a pound of fruit, you 
 ask for ** un demi-kilo." 
 
 1 kilometre = 
 
 1 kilogramme = j 
 
 CENTIMETRES INCHES 
 
258 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 
 
 FOREIGN PRONUNCIATION 
 
 In French no syllable of a word is strongly accented; 
 the accents modify the pronunciation of the vowel over 
 which they are placed. 
 
 The general rule in Italian is that the accent comes on 
 the syllable before the last, and remains there, even if a pro- 
 noun is affixed; for instance, "eat" is "mangidte," and 
 "eat it" is "mangiatelo." To this rule there are, however, 
 many exceptions, and a beginner must listen attentively. 
 
 In German the accent is usually on the first syllable as 
 in English. In French and Italian " i " is never pronounced 
 as with us as in "wine," but more or less like "ee" in 
 "reed," Besides the "ee" sound, the Germans have a 
 short "i" like ours in "hinder." In Italian, "c" before 
 consonants, and before "a," "o," and "u," is pronounced 
 as with us as in "cart" ; before "e" and "i" it sounds 
 somewhat like " ch " in " cherry." 
 
260 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 At the Custom House 
 
 1. We are ladies travelling 
 
 for pleasure. 
 
 2. We have nothing to de- 
 
 clare. 
 
 A la Douane 
 
 1. Nous sommes des dames 
 
 qui faisons un voyage 
 d'agr^ment. 
 
 2. Nous n'avons rien h de- 
 
 clarer. 
 
 At a Hotel 
 
 3. We should like to see 
 
 the rooms. 
 
 4. Are these the only rooms 
 
 that are vacant ? 
 
 5. Bring me some hot 
 
 water. 
 
 6. Bring me some more 
 
 towels. 
 
 7. This is dirty. 
 
 8. Bring me a sitz-bath 
 
 every morning at 
 seven o'clock. 
 
 9. Show us the ladies' 
 
 toilet room. 
 
 10. Have the fire lighted in 
 
 the sitting-room. 
 
 11. Have the clothes brushed 
 
 and our boots cleaned 
 every morning. 
 
 A VHotel 
 3. Voyons les chambres. 
 
 4. 
 
 5. 
 
 10. 
 
 11. 
 
 Sont-ce les seules dispo- 
 
 nibles ? 
 Apportez-moi de I'eau 
 
 chaude. 
 Apportez-moi des essuie- 
 
 mains. 
 Celui-ci n'est pas propre. 
 II me faut un bain de 
 
 si6ge tons les matins h 
 
 sept heures. 
 Ou est le cabinet pour 
 
 dames ? 
 Faites allumer du feu au 
 
 salon. 
 Nos v§tements devront 
 
 etre bross^s et nos 
 
 chaussures nettoy^es 
 
 chaque matin. 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 261 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 Alia Dogana 
 
 1. Siamo signore che viag- 
 giamo per piacere. 
 
 Am Tollamt 
 
 1. Wir reisen zum Vergntl- 
 gen. 
 
 2. Non abbiamo niente da 
 dichiarare. 
 
 2. Wir haben nichts Ver- 
 zoUbares. 
 
 10. 
 
 11. 
 
 AlV Albergo 
 
 Vogliamo vedere le ca- 
 
 mere. 
 Sono queste le sole ca- 
 
 mere libere ? 
 Portatemi dell' acqua 
 
 calda. 
 Portatemi qualche altri 
 
 asciugamani. 
 Questo 6 sporco. 
 Portatemi il semicupio 
 
 ogni mattina alle sette. 
 
 Dove 6 la ritirata per le 
 
 signore ? 
 Fatte accendere il f uoco 
 
 nel salotto. 
 Fatte spazzare i panni e 
 
 pulire le scarpe ogni 
 
 mattina. 
 
 9. 
 
 10. 
 
 11. 
 
 Im Gasthof 
 
 Wir mocliten die Zim- 
 
 mer sehen. 
 Sind alle andern Zimmer 
 
 besetzt ? 
 Holen Sie mir heisses 
 
 Wasser. 
 Bringen Sie mir noch 
 
 einige Handtiicher. 
 Dieses da ist schmutzig. 
 Besorgen Sie mir jeden 
 
 Morgen um sieben 
 
 Uhr ein Sitzbad. 
 Fiihren Sie uns zum 
 
 Damen-Kabinett. 
 Lassen Sie im Wohnzim- 
 
 mer Feuer anmachen. 
 Lassen Sie jeden Morgen 
 
 die Kleider biirsten 
 
 und die Stief el putzen. 
 
262 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 12. Bring rae a large can of 
 cold water. 
 
 12. 
 
 Apportez-moi un grand 
 bidon d'eau froide. 
 
 13. A pail. 
 
 14. Matches. 
 
 13. 
 14. 
 
 Un seau. 
 
 Des allumettes. 
 
 15. Wax matches. 
 
 16. Please send for a lock- 
 
 smith. 
 
 17. I have lost the key of 
 
 my trunk. 
 
 18. Must you break the lock 
 
 open ? 
 
 19. I can't turn the key. 
 
 20. What time is the table 
 
 d'hdte ? 
 
 15. Des allumettes de cire. 
 
 16. Faites venir un serrurier. 
 
 17. J'ai perdu la cl6 de ma 
 
 malle. 
 
 18. Faudra-t-il forcer la ser- 
 
 rure ? 
 
 19. Je ne puis faire tourner 
 
 la cl^. 
 
 20. A quelle heure est la 
 
 table d'hCte ? 
 
 21. We shall take our meals 21. 
 
 at the table d'h6te. 
 
 22. Please keep us three 22. 
 
 places. 
 
 23. We should like a little 23. 
 
 table for ourselves. 
 
 24. 
 
 25. 
 
 26. 
 
 27. 
 28. 
 
 We should like to have 
 our meals in our 
 rooms. 
 
 Bring me a " caf 6 com- 
 plet " (coffee, hot milk, 
 and bread and butter) . 
 
 Bring me two eggs, and 
 let them be boiled four 
 minutes. 
 
 Soft-boiled eggs. 
 
 Hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 Nous prendrons nos re- 
 pas k table d'hCte. 
 
 R6seryez-nous trois 
 places. 
 
 Nous aimerions une pe- 
 tite table particuli6re. 
 
 24. Nous prendrons nos re- 
 
 pas dans notre apparte- 
 ment. 
 
 25. Apportez-moi un caf6 
 
 complet. 
 
 26. Apportez-moi deux oeufs 
 
 k la coque cuits quatre 
 minutes. 
 
 27. Des oeufs k la coque. 
 
 28. Des ceufs durs. 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 263 
 
 12. 
 
 Portatemi un bocale d' 
 
 12. 
 
 
 acqua fredda. 
 
 
 13. 
 
 Una secchia. 
 
 13. 
 
 U. 
 
 Fiaminiferi. 
 
 14. 
 
 15. 
 
 Cerini. 
 
 15. 
 
 16. 
 
 Fate venire il chiavaro. 
 
 16. 
 
 17. Ho perduto la chiave del 17. 
 
 mio baule. 
 
 18. Si deve rompere la serra- 18. 
 
 tura ? 
 
 19. La chiave non gira. 19. 
 
 20. A che ora 6 la tavola 20. 
 
 rotonda ? 
 
 21. Mangeremo alia tavola 21. 
 
 rotonda. 
 
 22. Riservateci tre posti. 22. 
 
 23. Vorremmo una piccola 23. 
 
 tavola separata. 
 
 24. Vogliamo mangiare in 24, 
 
 camera. 
 
 25. Portatemi un caffe com- 25. 
 
 pleto. 
 
 Bringen Sie mir eine 
 
 grosse Kanne kalten 
 
 Wassers. 
 Ein Eimer. 
 Streichholzer (Ztindhol- 
 
 zer, Schwefelholzer). 
 Wachsztindholzer. 
 Bitte, lassen Sie einen 
 
 Schlosser holen. 
 Ich habe den Schliissel 
 
 zu meinem Koffer ver- 
 
 loren. 
 Miissen Sie das Schloss 
 
 aufbrechen ? 
 Ich kann den Schliissel 
 
 nicht umdrehen. 
 Um wie viel Uhr speist 
 
 man an der Wirtstafel 
 
 (table d'hdte)? 
 Wir werden an der 
 
 Wirtstafel speisen. 
 Bitte, reserviren Sie uns 
 
 drei Gedecke. 
 Konnen wir wohl einen 
 
 kleinen Tisch f iir uns 
 
 haben ? 
 Serviren Sie uns die 
 
 Mahlzeiten auf dem 
 
 Zimmer. 
 Bringen Sie mir einen 
 
 " caf6 complet." 
 
 26. 
 
 27. 
 28. 
 
 Portatemi due uova da 
 bere, e che sianobolliti 
 quattro minuti. 
 
 Uova da bere. 
 
 Uova tosti. 
 
 26. 
 
 27. 
 
 28. 
 
 Bringen Sie mir zwei 
 Eier ; sie miissen vier 
 Minuten kochen. 
 
 Weichgesottene Eier. 
 
 Hartgesottene Eier. 
 
264 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 29. Fried eggs. 
 
 30. Stirred eggs. 
 
 31. In the morningf or break- 
 
 fast we want coffee and 
 boiled milk for one — 
 tea with cream for one 
 — chocolate for one. 
 
 29. Des oeufs frits. 
 
 30. Des oeufs brouillds. 
 
 31. Le matin, pour dejeuner 
 
 nous desirous un caf6 
 au lait, — un th6 k la 
 creme, — un chocolat. 
 
 32. Also butter — rolls — 32. Avec beurre — petits 
 crescents — toast — pains — croissants — 
 
 rusks. roties — biscuits. 
 
 33. I want to have some 
 
 clothes washed, 
 
 34. Do not put any starch. 
 
 33. Je desire faire laver du 
 
 linge. 
 
 34. N'amidonnez pas. 
 
 35. Please put very little 
 
 starch in the under- 
 clothes, 
 
 36. Starch the collars and 
 
 cuffs a good deal. 
 
 35. Amidonnez fort pen. 
 
 ). Empesez bien les cols 
 et manchettes. 
 
 37. The clothes must be back 
 on Tuesday evening 
 without fail. 
 
 37. Rapportez tout le linge 
 mardi soir, sans f aute. 
 
 Leaving a Hotel 
 
 38. We wish to be called at 38. 
 
 six o'clock. 
 
 39. We leave for at 39. 
 
 eight. 
 
 40. When does the omnibus 40. 
 
 leave the hotel ? 
 
 En quittant Vhotel 
 
 Je desire qu'on nous 
 ^veille k six heures. 
 
 Nous partons pour 
 
 a huit heures. 
 
 A quelle heure 1' omnibus 
 part-il ? 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 265 
 
 29. Uova al piatto. 
 
 30. Uova brouilUs. 
 
 31. La mattina prendiamo 
 
 il caff6 latte per uno 
 — the con crema per 
 uno — cioccolata per 
 uno. 
 
 32. Anche del burro — dei 
 
 panetti — chif ali — 
 pane abbruscato — 
 zwieback. 
 
 33. Ho della biancheria da 
 
 far lavare. 
 
 34. Prego non mettere af- 
 
 fatto amido. 
 
 35. Prego mettere pochis- 
 
 simo amido nelle 
 vesti. 
 
 36. Mettete abbastanza 
 
 amido nei colli e nei 
 polsi. 
 
 37. La biancheria deve es- 
 
 sere qui martedi sera 
 immancabilmente. 
 
 29. Spiegeleier. 
 
 30. Riihrei. 
 
 31. Des Morgens zum Friih- 
 
 sttick wiinschen wir 
 eine Portion Kaffee 
 mitgekochter Milch — 
 eine Portion Thee mit 
 Rahm (Sahne) — eine 
 Portion Chocolade. 
 
 32. Dazu Butter und Brod- 
 
 chen (Wecken), — 
 Hornchen, — gerostete 
 Brodschnitten, — 
 Zwieback. 
 
 33. Ich mochte meine 
 
 Wasche besorgt haben. 
 
 34. Starken Sie die Wasche 
 
 nicht. 
 
 35. Thun Sie nur ein bischen 
 
 Starke hinein. 
 
 36. Starken Sie die Kragen 
 
 undManschetten recht 
 steif. 
 
 37. Dienstag Abend miissen 
 
 Sie uns die Wasche 
 wiederbringen, aber 
 ohne Fehl. 
 
 Partenza dalV Alhergo 
 
 38. Vogliamo essere chi- 
 
 amate alle sei. 
 
 39. Partiamo per - 
 
 otto. 
 
 40. A che ora parte V omni- 
 
 bus ? 
 
 Beim Verlassen des Hotels 
 38. 
 
 Lassen Sie uns um sechs 
 Uhr wecken, 
 alle 39. Um acht Uhr reisen wir 
 
 nach ab. 
 
 40. Wann fahrt der Omni- 
 bus (Kremser) weg ? 
 
266 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 41. When must we have the 41. Quand faut-il que les 
 
 luggage ready ? bagages soient prets ? 
 
 42. These pieces are to be 42. II faut faire enr^gistrer 
 
 registered. ces colis. 
 
 43. We will take these with 43. Nous emporterons ceux- 
 
 us in the carriage. ci dans la voiture. 
 
 44. We should like to have 44. Nous voudrions la note. 
 
 our bill. 
 
 45. I find it not unreasona- 45. C'est assez raisonnable. 
 
 ble. 
 
 46. I should like change for 46. Je voudrais la monnaie 
 
 ten francs. de dix francs. 
 
 Cdba 
 
 Fiacres 
 
 47. 
 
 48. 
 
 Cabby ! 
 
 Go to the Hotel 
 
 47. Cocher ! 
 
 48. APHotel 
 
 49. I will take you by the 
 
 hour. 
 
 50. Show me your tariff. 
 
 51. It is now ten o'clock. 
 
 52. Go on ! 
 
 49. Je vous prends k I'heure. 
 
 50. Montrez moi le tarif. 
 61. II est dix heures juste. 
 52. Allez! 
 
 53. 
 
 Stop here ! 
 
 53. 
 
 Arretez ici ! 
 
 54. 
 
 Drive to the Park (pub- 
 lic gardens). 
 
 54. 
 
 Allez au pare. 
 
 55. 
 
 Is it near ? 
 
 65. 
 
 Est-ce pr6s d'ici ? 
 
 56. 
 
 Is it far ? 
 
 66. 
 
 Est-ce loin ? 
 
 57. 
 
 How far is it to ? 
 
 57. 
 
 A quelle distance est ? 
 
 58. 
 
 Take us where there is 
 
 58. 
 
 Ou a-t-on la plus belle 
 
 
 the best view. 
 
 
 vue? 
 
 59. 
 
 Go slowly ! 
 
 59. 
 
 Allez lentement ! 
 
 60. 
 
 Go quickly ! 
 
 60. 
 
 Allez vite ! 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 267 
 
 41. A che ora deve essere 41. 
 
 pronto il bagaglio ? 
 
 42. Questi pezzi si devono 42. 
 
 spedire. 
 
 43. Prendiamo questi nel va- 43. 
 
 gone. 
 
 44. Vogliamo il conto. 44. 
 
 45. Mi pare giusto. 45. 
 
 Wann wird das Gepack 
 
 abgeholt ? 
 Dieses Gepack soil ein- 
 
 geschreiben werden. 
 Dieses behalten wir bei 
 
 uns, im Eisenbahn 
 
 wagen. 
 Bringen Sie uns die 
 
 Reclinung. 
 Icli finde Sie uicht un- 
 
 
 
 
 massig. 
 
 46. 
 
 Vorrei denarl spied per 
 
 46. 
 
 Konnen Sie mir zebn 
 
 
 died lire. 
 
 
 Franken wechseln ? 
 
 
 In Carrozza 
 
 
 Droschken (Fiaker) 
 
 47. 
 
 Cocchiere ! 
 
 47. 
 
 Kutscher ! 
 
 48. 
 
 AH' albergo . 
 
 48. 
 
 Fahren Sie nach dem 
 Gasthof . 
 
 49. 
 
 Air era. 
 
 49. 
 
 Ich nehme den Wagen 
 per Stunde. 
 
 50. 
 
 Mostratemi la tarifa. 
 
 50. 
 
 Zeigen Sie mir den Tarif. 
 
 61. 
 
 Sono le died. 
 
 51. 
 
 Jetzt ist es zehn Uhr. 
 
 62. 
 
 Avanti ! 
 
 52. 
 
 Fahren Sie zu ! (Vor- 
 warts ! — Weiter ! ) 
 
 63. 
 
 Fermate qui ! 
 
 53. 
 
 Halten Sie hier ! 
 
 64. 
 
 Ai giardini pubblici. 
 
 54. 
 
 Fahren Sie uns in den 
 Park — in die Anla- 
 gen. 
 
 66. 
 
 E vicino ? 
 
 55. 
 
 Ist es in der Nahe ? 
 
 66. 
 
 E lontano ? 
 
 66. 
 
 Ist es weit ? 
 
 67. 
 
 Quanto h lontano ? 
 
 57. 
 
 Wie weitistesnach ? 
 
 68. 
 
 Portateci dove c' b la 
 
 58. 
 
 Wo hat man die schonste 
 
 
 piu bella veduta. 
 
 
 Aussicht ? 
 
 59. 
 
 Piano, piano ! 
 
 59. 
 
 Fahren Sie langsam ! 
 
 60. 
 
 Presto I 
 
 60. 
 
 Fahren Sie geschwind ! 
 
268 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 61. If you treat your horse 61. Si vous ne maltraitez 
 
 well, I will give you pas votre clieval, vous 
 
 a good tip. aurez un bon pour- 
 
 boire. 
 
 62, If you abuse your horse, 62. Si vous maltraitez votre 
 
 I will not give you cheval, vous n'aurez 
 
 anything. pas de pourboire. 
 
 63. Better go slowly, rather 63. Allez doucement, plutCt 
 
 than hurt your horse. 
 
 que d'6reinter votre 
 cheval. 
 
 64. There is no hurry. 
 
 65. I will not take your cab, 
 
 because your horse is 
 lame. 
 
 64. Nous ne sommes pas 
 
 press^es. 
 
 65. Votre cheval boite, je ne 
 
 vous prends pas. 
 
 66. Can one get refresh- 66. Peut-onserafraichirici? 
 ments near here? 
 
 67. Is there a dairy here ? 
 
 68. Can we have some milk ? 
 
 67. Y a-t-il une cr^merie 
 
 tout pr6s ? 
 
 68. Peut-on avoir du lait ? 
 
 69. Take a glass of wine to 
 the coachman. 
 
 I. Donnez un verre de vin 
 au cocher. 
 
 70. Stop a moment 
 
 70. Arretez un instant ! 
 
 71. Turn round and go back 71. Retournez k I'hOtel. 
 
 to the hotel. 
 
 72. Here is your tip. 72. Voici votre pourboire. 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 269 
 
 61. Se trattate bene il ca- 
 
 vallo, vi daro un bel 
 regalo. 
 
 62. Se maltrattate il cavallo, 
 
 non vi dar6 niente. 
 
 63. Piuttosto andare piano 
 
 die bastonare 11 ca- 
 vallo. 
 
 64. Senza fretta ! 
 
 65. Non vi prendo, perch6 il 
 " cavallo 6 zoppo. 
 
 66. Si trovano qui vicino dei 
 
 rinfrescbi ? 
 
 67. C fe qui una latteria ? 
 
 68. Si puo avere del latte ? 
 
 69. Date un bicchiere di vino 
 
 al cocchiere. 
 
 70. Fermate un momentino ! 
 
 71. Voltate e tornate all' al- 
 
 bergo. 
 
 72. Ecco per la buonamano. 
 
 61. Wenn Sie Ihr Pferd gut 
 
 behandeln, so bekom- 
 men Sie ein gutes 
 Trinkgeld. 
 
 62. Wenn Sie das Pferd 
 
 mishandeln,so bekom- 
 men Sie gar nichts 
 zum Trinkgeld. 
 
 63. Mir ist es lieber Sie 
 
 fabren langsam, als 
 dass Sie dem Pferde 
 schaden. 
 
 64. Wir baben es nicbt eilig. 
 
 65. Ihre Droschke nehme 
 
 icb nicbt, denn Sie 
 baben ja ein labmes 
 Pferd. 
 
 66. Kann man bier in der 
 
 Nabe Erfrischungen 
 baben ? 
 
 67. Giebt es bier eine 
 
 Meierei ? 
 
 68. Konnen wir Milcb be- 
 
 kommen ? 
 
 69. Bringen Sie dem Kut- 
 
 scher ein Glas Wein 
 — ein Glas Bier.i 
 
 70. Kutscber, halten Sie 
 
 einen Augenblick ! 
 
 71. Kebren Sie um, nacb 
 
 dem Hotel zuriick. 
 
 72. Da ist Ihr Trinkgeld. 
 
 1 In Germany beer would be more probable than wine. 
 
270 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHBASES 
 
 At the Museum — the Pic- 
 ture Gallery 
 
 73. What is the entrance fee? 
 
 (price of admission). 
 
 74. How do you get to the 
 
 Picture Gallery ? 
 
 Au Musee — a la Galerie 
 
 73. Combien faut-il payer 
 
 P entree ? 
 
 74. Par oil va-t-on h, la ga- 
 
 lerie des tableaux ? 
 
 75. In which division is the 75. Ou sont les salles de la 
 
 antique sculpture 
 
 sculpture antique 
 
 76. I am looking for the 
 famous statue of . 
 
 76. Je cherche la fameuse 
 statue de . 
 
 77. Can we get a catalogue ? 77. Y a-t-il un catalogue ? 
 
 78. On what days is the 
 
 Museum open ? 
 
 79. Is the admission free, or 
 
 must one pay ? 
 
 At the Station 
 
 80. Is the train open yet ? 
 
 78. A quels jours le Mus^e 
 
 est-il ouvert ? 
 
 79. L'entr^e est-elle libre, 
 
 ou faut-il payer ? 
 
 A la Gare 
 
 80. Le train est-il prgt ? 
 
 8L Is this the train for ? 81. Est-ce le train pour ? 
 
 82. We want a carriage for 82. Nous ddsirons un com- 
 
 ladies only. partiment pour dames 
 
 seules. 
 
 83. If you will reserve this 83. Si vous voulez bien nous 
 
 r^server ce comparti- 
 ment, je ne vous ou- 
 
 blierai pas. 
 
 84. From which track does 84. Le train part de quelle 
 
 the train go ? voie ? 
 
 86. We are going by the ex- 85. Nous allons par le train 
 
 press train to . degrandevitesse^ . 
 
 86. Train de luxe. 86. Train de luxe. 
 
 carriage for us, I shall 
 not forget you. 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 2T1 
 
 Al Museo — alia Galleria 
 73. Quanto h 1' entrata ? 
 
 Im Museum — In der Bilder- 
 sammlung 
 
 73. WaskostetderEintritt? 
 
 74. Per dove si va alia Gal- 
 
 leria ? 
 
 75. Dove sono le sculture 
 
 antiche ? 
 
 76. Cerco la celebre statua 
 
 del . 
 
 77. Si pii6 avere un cata- 
 
 logo? 
 
 78. In che giorni 6 aperto il 
 
 Museo ? 
 
 79. E libera V entrata, op- 
 
 pure si paga ? 
 
 Alia Stazione (Ferrovia) 
 
 80. E aperto il treno ? 
 
 81. E questo il treno 
 
 per ? 
 
 82. Vogliamo il comparti- 
 
 mento per signore sole. 
 
 83. Se ci riservate questa 
 
 carrozza, non vi di- 
 menticherb. 
 
 74. Wie gelangt man zur 
 
 Bilder-Gallerie ? 
 
 75. Wo ist die Abtheilung 
 
 fiir die antike Bild- 
 hauerarbeit ? 
 
 76. Ich suche die bertihmte 
 
 Bildsaule (Statue) 
 der . 
 
 77. Ist ein Katalog zu 
 
 haben ? 
 
 78. An welchen Tagen ist 
 
 das Museum offen ? 
 
 79. Ist der Eintritt frei, oder 
 
 muss man bezahlen ? 
 
 Am Bahnhof 
 
 80. Kann man schon ein- 
 
 steigen ? 
 
 81. Fahrt dieser Zug 
 
 nach ? 
 
 82. Wir suchen das Damen- 
 
 Coup6. 
 
 83. ReservirenSieunsdiesen 
 
 Wagen, so soil es Ihr 
 Schaden nicht sein. 
 
 84. Da quale binario parte il 
 
 treno ? 
 
 85. Partiamo col diretto 
 
 per . 
 
 86. Treno di lusso. 
 
 84. Auf welchem Geleise 
 
 fahrt der Zug ? 
 
 85. Wir fahren mit dem 
 
 Schnellzug nach . 
 
 86. Train de luxe. 
 
272 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 87. Time table. 
 
 88. Steamer. 
 
 87. Indicateur. 
 
 88. Steamer — bateau k va- 
 
 peur. 
 
 At the Post Office 
 
 89. Where is the Post Office ? 
 
 90. Where can I register a 
 
 letter ? 
 
 91. I wish to register this 
 
 letter. 
 
 92. Where does one buy- 
 
 stamps ? 
 
 93. Is this letter over weight ? 
 
 94. How long will it take a 
 letter to go from here 
 to ? 
 
 96. I want five foreign post- 
 age stamps. 
 
 96. I want ten postage 
 
 stamps for France — 
 Italy — Germany. 
 
 97. I want twenty foreign 
 
 postal cards. 
 
 98. I wish to send a postal 
 
 packet. 
 
 At the Telegraph Office 
 
 99. Please give me a blank. 
 
 A la Poste 
 
 89. Oti est le bureau des 
 
 postes ? 
 
 90. Ou peut-on faire recom- 
 
 mander une lettre ? 
 
 91. Je desire recommander 
 
 cette lettre. 
 
 92. Ou se vendent les tim- 
 
 bres-poste ? 
 
 93. Cette lettre p6se-t-elle 
 
 trop? 
 
 94. Combien de temps une 
 
 lettre met-elle pour 
 arriver k ? 
 
 95. Je dfeire cinq timbres 
 
 pour r stranger. 
 
 96. Donnez-moi dix timbres 
 
 pour la France. 
 
 97. Je voudrais vingt cartes- 
 
 postales pour 1' stran- 
 ger. 
 
 98. Je desire expSdier un 
 
 colis postal. 
 
 Au Bureau du Telegraph 
 
 99. Donnez-moi une forme, 
 
 s'il vous plait. 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 273 
 
 87. 
 
 Orario. 
 
 87. 
 
 Der Fahrplan. 
 
 88. 
 
 " Piroscafo " or " va- 
 
 88. 
 
 Der Dampfer (di 
 
 
 pore ' ' in time tables ; 
 
 
 Dampfschiff). 
 
 
 in conversation al- 
 
 
 
 
 ways "vapore." 
 
 
 
 
 Alia Posta 
 
 
 Auf der Post 
 
 89. 
 
 Dov' 6 la Posta ? 
 
 89. 
 
 Wo ist das Postamt ? 
 
 90. 
 
 91. 
 
 92. 
 
 93. 
 
 94 
 
 Dove si raccomandono 
 
 le lettere ? 
 Vorrei raccomandare 
 
 questa lettera. 
 Dove si comprano fran- 
 
 cobolli ? 
 Questa lettera b doppia ? 
 
 Quanto tempo mette una 
 lettera per arrivare 
 a ? 
 
 95. Vorrei cinque franco- 
 
 bolli per 1' estero. 
 
 96. Vorrei dieci francobolli 
 
 pel regno. 
 
 97. Vorrei venti cartoline 
 
 postali per 1' estero. 
 
 90. Wo kann ich einen Brief 
 
 einschreiben lassen ? 
 
 91. Ich mochte diesen Brief 
 
 einschreiben lassen. 
 
 92. Wo bekommt man Brief - 
 
 marken ? 
 
 93. Ist an diesem Brief 
 
 Ubergewicht zu be- 
 zahlen ? 
 
 94. Wie lange braucht ein 
 
 Brief von hier nach ? 
 
 95. Ich wiinsche flinf Brief- 
 
 marken fiir's Aus- 
 land. 
 
 96. Ich wiinsche zehn Brief- 
 
 marken fiir Deutsch- 
 land. 
 
 97. Ich wiinsche zehn Post- 
 
 karten fiir's Ausland. 
 
 98. Vorrei mandare 
 
 pacco postale. 
 
 Al Telegrafo 
 
 99. Favorisca un modulo. 
 
 98. 
 
 Ich will dieses Packet 
 mit der Post schicken. 
 
 Auf dem Telegraphenamt 
 
 99. Bitte, geben Sie mi: 
 ein Formular. 
 
274 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 100. I wish to send a cable 
 to America. 
 
 100. Je desire cabler en 
 Am^rique. 
 
 101. 
 102. 
 
 Is it legible? 
 
 101. 
 
 Est-ce lisible ? 
 
 Here is my card; if a 
 
 102. 
 
 Void ma carte ; s'il 
 
 telegram should come 
 
 
 m'arrive une d^peche 
 
 for me, please send it 
 
 
 envoy ez-la moi ^ cette 
 
 to this address. 
 
 
 adresse. 
 
 Form of Telegram to engage 
 Booms 
 
 Formulede Telegramme pour 
 retenir des chambres 
 
 103. We shall arrive from 
 Rome at 3 p.m. — 
 9 A.M. — Wednesday. 
 We wish three single 
 rooms — one double 
 and one single room — 
 with a sitting-room. 
 Madame A- 
 
 103. Arriverons de Rome 
 3 p.m. — 9 a.m. — mer- 
 credi. R^servez trois 
 chambres ^ un lit — 
 une chambre k deux 
 lits, et une ^ un lit — 
 avec salon. 
 Madame A B . 
 
 At a Forwarding AgenVs 
 
 Chez un Expediteur 
 
 104. 
 
 I should like to have 
 
 104. 
 
 Je desire faire exp^dier 
 
 
 this parcel forwarded 
 
 
 ce colis imm^diate- 
 
 
 at once. 
 
 
 ment. 
 
 105. 
 
 Fast freight. 
 
 105. 
 
 Grande-vitesse. 
 
 106. 
 
 Slow freight. 
 
 106. 
 
 Petite- Vitesse. 
 
 107. 
 
 The charges are to be 
 
 107. 
 
 Paiement contre rem- 
 
 
 paid on arrival. 
 
 
 boursement. 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 275 
 
 100. Vorrei mandare un dis- 
 
 paccio in America. 
 
 101. E chiaro ? 
 
 102. Vi consegno il mio bi- 
 
 glietto, e prego che si 
 mandino a questo in- 
 dirizzo i dispacci che 
 arriveranno per me. 
 
 100. 
 
 101. 
 102. 
 
 Ich moclite sine Kabel- 
 depesche nachAmer- 
 ika schicken. 
 
 1st sie leserlich ? 
 
 Sollte f iir mich ein Tele- 
 gramm kommen, so 
 schicken Sie es, bitte, 
 nach der Adresse auf 
 dieser Karte. 
 
 Dispaccio per riservare Ca- 
 mere 
 
 Ein Muster- Telegramm urn 
 Zimmer zu bestellen 
 
 103. Arriviamo da Eoma 
 alle 3 pom. — 9 ant. — 
 mercoledi. Desideri- 
 amo tre camere da un 
 letto — una camera 
 con due letti, ed una 
 da un letto — con 
 salotto. 
 Madame A B . 
 
 103. Wir kommen Mitt- 
 woch, dreiUhrNach- 
 mittags — neun Uhr 
 Vormittags — aus 
 Rom. Reserviren Sie 
 uns drei einfache 
 Zimmer — ein zwei- 
 schlafriges, ein ein- 
 fach.es Zimmer — 
 nebst Wohnzimmer. 
 Frau a B . 
 
 
 Dallo Speditore 
 
 
 Beim Spediteur 
 
 104. 
 
 Vorrei spedire subito 
 
 104. 
 
 Dieses Packet mochte 
 
 
 questo pacco. 
 
 
 ich sogleich bef drdert 
 haben. 
 
 105. 
 
 Grande velocity. 
 
 105. 
 
 Als Eilgut. 
 
 106. 
 
 Piccola velocity. 
 
 106. 
 
 Als Fracht. 
 
 107. 
 
 Le spese da pagarsi in 
 
 107. 
 
 Die Gebiihren sind vom 
 
 
 arrive. 
 
 
 Empfanger zu ent- 
 richten. 
 
276 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 At a Banker^ s Chez le Banquier 
 
 108. I have a letter of credit 108. J'aiunelettre de change 
 
 from . de . 
 
 109. Is it all right ? 109. Est-elle en rfegle ? 
 
 110. I shall have to trouble 110. J'ai encore quelque 
 
 you still further. chose k vous de- 
 
 mander. 
 
 111. Where must I sign my 111. Oti faut-il signer ? 
 
 name ? 
 
 112 
 113 
 114 
 115 
 
 116 
 117 
 118 
 119 
 120 
 121 
 
 At a 8tationer''s Chez le Papetier 
 
 I should like some let- 112. Je voudrais du papier 
 ter paper. k lettres. 
 
 I should like some 113. Je voudrais des enve- 
 thicker envelopes. loppes plus ^paisses. 
 
 I w^ant a bottle of ink. 114. J'ai besoin d'encre. 
 
 I want a bottle of muci- 115. J'ai besoin de coUe. 
 lage. 
 
 I want some sealing- 116. J'ai besoin de cire k 
 wax. cacheter. 
 
 I want some blotting- 117. J'ai besoin de papier 
 paper. buvard. 
 
 I want some wrapping- 118. J'ai besoin de papier k 
 paper. envelopper. 
 
 I want some twine. 119. J'ai besoin de la ficelle. 
 
 I want some steel pens. 120. J'ai besoin de plumes 
 
 d'acier. 
 
 I want some pencils. 121. J'ai besoin de crayons. 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 277 
 
 Alia Banca 
 
 108. Ho una lettera di cre- 
 
 dito della casa , 
 
 109. E in ordine ? 
 
 110. La dovrd incommodare 
 
 ancora. 
 
 Beim Bankier 
 
 108. Ich habe einen Credit- 
 
 brief von . 
 
 109. 1st Alias in Ordnung ? 
 
 110. Ich muss Sie noch 
 
 weiter bemiihen. 
 
 111. Dove devo firmare ? 
 
 111. Wo muss icli meinen 
 Nam en unterzeich- 
 nen? 
 
 In una Cartoleria 
 
 112. Vorrei della carta da 
 
 lettere. 
 
 113. Vorrei delle buste piu 
 
 forti. 
 
 114. Vorrei una bottiglia 
 
 d' inchiostro. 
 
 115. Vorrei una bottiglia di 
 
 gomma. 
 
 116. Vorrei della cera lacca. 
 
 117. Vorrei della carta suga. 
 
 118. Vorrei della carta per 
 
 involtare. 
 
 119. Vorrei dello spago. 
 
 120. Vorrei delle penne 
 
 d' acciajo. 
 
 121. Vorrei dei lapis (same 
 
 in singular and plu- 
 ral). 
 
 Beim Schreibmaterialien- 
 hdndler 
 
 112. Ich wtinsche Brief - 
 
 papier. 
 
 113. Ich wtinsche einige 
 
 dickere Converts. 
 
 114. Ich wtinsche Tinte. 
 
 115. Ich wtinsche eine Lo- 
 
 sung Gummi arabi- 
 cum. 
 
 116. Ich wtinsche Siegellack. 
 
 117. Ich wtinsche etwas 
 
 Losch-papier. 
 
 118. Ich wtinsche Pack- 
 
 papier. 
 
 119. Ich wtinsche Bind- 
 
 faden. 
 
 120. Ich wtinsche einige 
 
 Stahlfedern. 
 
 121. Ich wtinsche Bleistifte. 
 
278 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 At a Dressmaker* s Chez la Couturiere 
 
 122. Mrs. recommended 122. Madame, vous m'avez 
 
 you to me. 6t6 recommand^e par 
 
 Mme. . 
 
 123. What patterns have 123. Quels modules avez- 
 
 you ? vous ? 
 
 124. This pleases me best. 124. Voici ce qui me plait le 
 
 mieux. 
 
 125. Will you take my meas- 125. Prenez mes mesures, 
 
 ure ? s'il vous plait. 
 
 126. Don't make the vi^aist 126. Ne me serrez pas trop 
 
 too tight. la taille. 
 
 127. When am I to try it 127. Quand pourrez-vous me 
 
 on ? r essay er ? 
 
 128. It is too tight across 128. Cela me gene k la poi- 
 
 the chest. trine. 
 
 129. The sleeve is too wide. 129. La manche est trop 
 
 large. 
 
 130. The waistband is too 130. La ceinture est trop 
 
 loose. lache. 
 
 131. Itistootightintheneck. 131. Le col est trop juste. 
 
 132. Cut it out a little at 132. Echancrez un peu sous 
 
 the armhole. les bras. 
 
 133. The skirt is too long in 133. La jupe est trop longue 
 
 front and too short par devant et trop 
 
 behind. courte derri^re. 
 
 134. The skirt does not hang 134. La jupe tombe mal. 
 
 well. 
 
 135. This is not straight. 135. Ce n'est pas droit. 
 
 136. It is not in the middle. 136. Ce n'est pas au milieu. 
 
 137. I must have a pocket. 137. II me faut une poche. 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 279 
 
 Dalla Sarta 
 
 122. La Signora C mi 
 
 ha raccomandato 1^ 
 vostra casa. 
 
 123. Che campioni vi sono ? 
 
 124. Preferisco questo. 
 
 125. Volete prendere le 
 
 misure ? 
 
 126. Non mi fate la vita 
 
 troppo stretta. 
 
 127. Quando lo potr6 pro- 
 
 vare? 
 
 128. E troppo stretto sul 
 
 petto. 
 
 129. La manica e troppo 
 
 larga. 
 
 130. La cinta h troppo larga. 
 
 Bei der Rleidermacherin 
 
 122. Frau hat Sie mir 
 
 empfohlen. 
 
 123. Was ftir Muster haben 
 
 Sie? 
 
 124. Dieses gefallt mir am 
 
 besten. 
 126. Wollen Sie mir das 
 Mass nehmen ? 
 
 126. Machen Sie die Taille 
 
 nicht zu eng. 
 
 127. Wann soil ich zum 
 
 Anprobiren kom- 
 men ? 
 
 128. Das spannt liber der 
 
 Brust. 
 
 129. Der Armel ist zu weit. 
 
 130. Der Bund sitzt zu lose. 
 
 131. E troppo stretto alcollo. 
 
 132. Levatene un poco sotto 
 
 le braccia. 
 
 133. La veste 6 troppo lunga 
 
 davanti, e troppo 
 corta dietro. 
 
 134. La veste non cade 
 
 bene. 
 
 135. Non sta dritto. 
 
 136. Non sta in mezzo. 
 
 137. Ci voglio una saccoccia 
 
 (in Northern Italy, 
 
 *'tasca"). 
 
 131. Am Hals ist es zu fest. 
 
 132. Schneiden Sie das Arm- 
 
 loch noch ein wenig 
 aus. 
 
 133. Der Rock ist vorn zu 
 
 lang und hinten zu 
 kurz. 
 
 134. Der Rock fallt nicht 
 
 richtig. 
 
 135. Dies sitzt schief . 
 
 136. Dies ist nicht in der 
 
 Mitte. 
 
 137. Eine Tasche muss ich 
 
 haben. 
 
280 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 138. That is more comfort- 138. 
 
 able. 
 
 139. When will my dress be 139. 
 
 ready ? 
 
 140. Send the bill at the 140. 
 
 same time. 
 
 C'est plus ais6 mainte- 
 
 nant. 
 Quand ma robe sera-t- 
 
 elle pret a livrer ? 
 Envoyez la facture en 
 
 m§me temps. 
 
 At a Milliner 
 
 141. I am looking for a 141. 
 
 simple hat to travel 
 in. 
 
 142. It is very pretty, but is 142. 
 
 not becoming to me. 
 
 Chez la Modiste 
 
 Je desire trouver un 
 chapeau de voyage 
 fort simple. 
 
 II est tr6s-joli mais il 
 ne me va pas. 
 
 143. 
 
 It is too large. 
 
 143. 
 
 11 est trop grand. 
 
 144. 
 
 It is too small. 
 
 144. 
 
 11 est trop petit. 
 
 145. 
 
 This one is more be- 
 coming. 
 
 145. 
 
 Celui-ci est plus seyant. 
 
 146. 
 
 What is the price of 
 
 146. 
 
 Quel est le prix de 
 
 
 this one ? 
 
 
 celui-ci ? 
 
 147. 
 
 That is too dear. 
 
 147. 
 
 C'est trop Cher. 
 
 148. 
 
 What do you ask to 
 
 148. 
 
 Combien me deman- 
 
 
 make a hat to order ? 
 
 
 derez-vous pour m'en 
 faire un sur com- 
 mande ? 
 
 In a Shop 
 
 149. I should like some 
 black cotton stock- 
 ings. 
 
 160. These are not fine 
 enough. 
 
 151. How much a pair do 
 
 they cost ? 
 
 152. That is too much. 
 
 Dans ?m Magasin 
 
 149. Faites-moi voir des bas 
 
 de coton noirs, s'il 
 vous plait. 
 
 150. Ceux-ci ne sont pas 
 
 assez fins. 
 
 151. Combien la paire ? 
 
 152. C'est trop. 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 281 
 
 138. Cosi 6 piu commodo. 
 
 138. Das ist bequemer. 
 
 139. Quando sar^ pronto il 
 
 costume ? 
 
 140. Mandate il conto insi- 
 
 eme colla roba. 
 
 139. Wann wird mein Kleid 
 
 fertig sein ? 
 
 140. Schicken Sie die Rech- 
 
 nung gleich mit. 
 
 Dalla Modista 
 
 141. Cerco un cappello sem- 
 plice per viaggio. 
 
 Bei der Putzhdndlerin 
 
 141. Ich suche einen ein- 
 fachen Reisehut. 
 
 142. E grazioso, ma non mi 
 
 sta bene. 
 
 143. E troppo grande. 
 
 144. E troppo piccolo. 
 
 145. Questo mi sta meglio. 
 
 142. Er ist selir htibsch, 
 
 kleidet raich aber 
 nicht. 
 
 143. Er ist za gross. 
 
 144. Er ist zu klein. 
 
 145. Dieser steht mir besser. 
 
 146. Quanto costa questo 
 
 146. Was kostet dieser ? 
 
 147. E troppo caro. 147. Das ist zu theuer. 
 
 148. Quanto domandereste 148. Was verlangen Sie 
 
 per farmi un cappello wenn Sie einen Hut 
 
 apposta? auf Bestellung 
 
 machen ? 
 
 In un Negozio 
 
 In einem Laden 
 
 149. Vorrei delle calze nere 149, Bitte, zeigen Sie miv 
 
 di cotone. schwarze baumwol- 
 
 lene Striimpfe. 
 
 150. Non sono abbastanza 150. Diese sind nicht fein 
 
 fine. genug. 
 
 151. Quanto costano il paio ? 151. Was kostet das Paar ? 
 
 152. E troppo. 
 
 162. Das ist zu viel. 
 
282 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 153. I will not give you any 
 
 more. 
 
 154. I'll look for them else- 
 
 where first. 
 
 155. Have you narrow white 
 
 ribbon ? 
 
 156. This is just what I 
 
 want. 
 
 157. I do not really want it. 
 
 158. I should like some ma- 
 
 terial for veils. 
 
 159. What is the price of your 
 
 white kid gloves ? 
 
 160. Four button length. 
 
 161. Velvet. 
 
 162. Satin. 
 
 163. I should like some 
 
 needles and pins, 
 thread and darning 
 cotton, also a thim- 
 ble and a pair of 
 scissors, buttons, and 
 braid. 
 
 153. Je ne veux pas donner 
 
 'davantage. 
 
 154. Je vais chercher ail- 
 
 leurs avant de me de- 
 cider. 
 
 155. Avez-vous du ruban 
 
 blanc dtroit ? 
 
 156. Voil^ juste ce quUl une 
 
 faut. 
 
 157. De fait, je n'en ai pas 
 
 besoin. 
 
 158. Je voudrais du tulle k 
 
 voilettes. 
 
 159. Quel est le prix de vos 
 
 gants de chevreau 
 blancs ? 
 
 160. A quatre boutons. 
 
 161. Velours. 
 
 162. Satin. 
 
 163. J'ai besoin d'aiguilles 
 
 et d'^pingles, de fil 
 et de coton k repri- 
 ser, ainsi que d'un 
 d6, de ciseaux, de 
 boutons et de tresse 
 de laine. 
 
 At a Doctor^ s Office 
 
 164. Does Dr. F. live here ? 
 
 165. At what time are his 
 
 office hours ? 
 
 166. Which is the waiting 
 
 room ? 
 
 167. Do you think he will 
 
 come soon ? 
 
 Chez le Medecin 
 
 164. Est-ce ici que demeure 
 
 le docteur F. ? 
 
 165. Quelles sont ses heures 
 
 de consultations ? 
 
 166. Oti est le salon d'attente? 
 
 167. L'attendez-vous bien- 
 
 tot? 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 283 
 
 163. Non vi dar6 di piu. 
 
 153. Ich gebe nicht mehr. 
 
 154. Cercher6 in un altro 154. Icli will erst anderswo 
 negozio. suchen. 
 
 155. Avete del nastro bianco 155. 
 
 stretto ? 
 
 156. E proprio questo che 156. 
 
 cercavo. 
 
 157. Veramente, non mi 157. 
 
 serve. 
 
 158. Vorrei della stoffa per 158. 
 
 veli. 
 
 159. Quanto costano guanti 159. 
 
 bianchi ? 
 
 Haben Sie schmales 
 
 weisses Band ? 
 Das ist ganz genau was 
 
 ich brauche. 
 Eigentlich habe ich es 
 
 nicht nothig. 
 Ich wiinsche Schleier- 
 
 stoffe. 
 Was kosten die weissen 
 
 Glac^-Handschuhe ? 
 
 1. Da quattro bottoni. 
 
 160. 
 
 Mit vier Knopfen. 
 
 .. Veluto. 
 
 161. 
 
 Der Samt (Sammet). 
 
 !. Raso. 
 
 162. 
 
 Der Atlas. 
 
 t. Vorrei degli aghi e 
 
 163. 
 
 Ich wiinsche Nahnadeln 
 
 delle spille, filo e 
 
 
 und Stecknadeln, 
 
 cotone da cucire, 
 
 
 ZwirnundStopfgarn ; 
 
 anche un ditale ed 
 
 
 dazu einen Fingerhut 
 
 un paio di forbici, 
 
 
 und eine Schere, 
 
 bottoni e zagana. 
 
 
 nopfe und Litze. 
 
 Dal Medico 
 
 
 Beim Arzt 
 
 164. Abita qui 11 Dottore 
 
 F. ? 
 
 165. Quali sono le ore di 
 
 consultazione ? 
 
 166. Dove devo aspettare ? 
 
 167. Credete che 
 presto ? 
 
 venga 
 
 164. Wohnt hier der Doktor 
 
 F. ? 
 
 165. Wann hat er seine 
 
 Sprechstunde ? 
 
 166. Wo ist das Wartezim- 
 
 mer ? 
 
 167. Sie uieinen er kame 
 
 gleich ? 
 
284 
 
 168. I can't wait any longer. 
 
 169. Here is my card; say 
 
 that I beg him to 
 call as soon as possi- 
 ble at the Hotel . 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 168. Je ne puis attendre plus 
 
 longtemps. 
 
 169. Voici ma carte ; dites- 
 
 lui de passer chez 
 
 moi, ^ I'hotel , 
 
 le plus tot possible. 
 
 At a Theatre Office 
 
 170. What are they going 
 
 to play on Friday ? 
 
 171. Which are the best 
 
 seats ? 
 
 172. How much do the boxes 
 
 cost? 
 
 173. Give me three orches- 
 
 tra stalls. 
 
 Au bureau de Theatre 
 
 170. Que jouera-t-on ven- 
 
 dredi ? 
 
 171. Quelles sont les meil- 
 
 leures places ? 
 
 172. Quel est le prix des 
 
 loges ? 
 
 173. Donnez-moi trois stalles 
 
 d'orchestre. 
 
 To discourage Beggars 
 174. Go away ! 
 
 176. I have nothing. 
 176. I have no change. 
 
 Pour rebuter les mendiants 
 
 174. Allez-vous en ! 
 
 175. Je n'ai rien k donner. 
 
 176. Je n'ai pas de monnaie. 
 
 Photographs Photographies 
 
 177. I wish to buy some 177. Je desire des photo- 
 
 photographs, graphics. 
 
 178. I prefer them un- 178. Je les voudrais non 
 
 mounted. mont^es. 
 
 179. Have you no larger 179. N'en avez-vous pas de 
 
 ones ? plus grand format ? 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 285 
 
 168. Non posso aspettare 168. Langer kann ich nicht 
 
 pm. 
 169. Ecco il mio biglietto; 
 fate il piacere di pre- 
 gare il Signer Dot- 
 tore di favorire all' 
 
 albergo , quanto 
 
 prima potr^. 
 
 warten. 
 169. Da ist meine Karte ; 
 sagen Sie, ich liesse 
 ihn bitten, sobald wie 
 
 moglich im Hotel 
 
 vorzukommen. 
 
 Al Teatro 
 
 170. Cosa si d^ il venerdi ? 
 
 171. Quali sono i migliori 
 
 posti ? 
 
 172. Quanto costano i pal- 
 
 chi? 
 
 173. Datemi tre poltrone. 
 
 Theater 
 
 170. Was wird am Freitag 
 
 gegeben ? 
 
 171. Welches sind die besten 
 
 Platze ? 
 
 172. Was kosten die Logen ? 
 
 173. Geben Sie mir drei 
 
 Sperrsitze. 
 
 Contro Vimportunita dei 
 mendicanti 
 
 174. Vavia! 
 
 175. Non ho niente. 
 
 176. Non ho spicci. 
 
 Um den Bettlern zu wehren 
 
 174. Machen Sie dass Sie 
 
 f ortkommen ! 
 
 175. Ich habe Nichts bei mir. 
 
 176. Ich habe kein Klein- 
 
 geld. 
 
 Fotografie 
 
 177. Vorrei delle fotografie. 
 
 178. Le pref erisco non mont- 
 
 ate. 
 
 179. Non ne avete piu 
 
 grandi ? 
 
 Photographien 
 
 177. Ich mochte einige 
 
 Photographien. 
 
 178. Ich mochte sie lieber 
 
 unauf g e z ogene 
 haben. 
 
 179. Haben Sie keine 
 
 grosseren ? 
 
286 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHBASES 
 
 180. These are too large. 
 
 180. 
 
 181. Are these all you have ? 181. 
 
 182. 
 
 183. 
 
 How soon can you have 
 some more printed ? 
 
 Will you send them 
 after me to ? 
 
 184. Here is my address. 
 
 185. How much will they 
 
 cost, with the post- 
 age ? 
 
 182. 
 
 183. 
 
 184. 
 185. 
 
 Celles-ci sont trop 
 
 grandes. 
 Est-ce tout ce que vous 
 
 avez ? 
 Pour quand pouvez- 
 
 vous en faire tirer 
 
 d'autres ? 
 Voulez-vous me les ex- 
 
 p6dier k ? 
 
 Voici mon adresse. 
 Combien cotiteront- 
 
 elles y compris I'af- 
 
 franchissement ? 
 
 Visits 
 186. Is Mrs. C. at home ? 
 
 Les Visites 
 
 186. Madame C. est-elle chez 
 elle? 
 187. Is Mrs. C. receiving ? 187. Madame C. regoit-elle ? 
 
 188. Please say we are sorry 188. Dites-lui que nous 
 not to have seen her. sommes bien fach^es 
 
 de ne pas 1' avoir vue. 
 
 189. 
 190. 
 191. 
 192. 
 193. 
 
 Courtesies, etc. 
 
 Good morning. 
 Good day. 
 Good evening. 
 Good night. 
 Thank you. 
 
 Accueils courtois, etc. 
 
 194. Thank you very much. 
 
 195. If you please (to a 
 
 servant). 
 
 189. 
 
 (Not used in French.) 
 
 190. 
 
 Bonjour. 
 
 191. 
 
 Bonsoir. 
 
 192. 
 
 Bonne nuit. 
 
 193. 
 
 Merci bien. 
 
 194. 
 
 Bien des remerciments. 
 
 195. 
 
 S'il vous plait. 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 287 
 
 180. Queste sono troppo 
 
 grandi. 
 
 181. Non ne avete altre ? 
 
 182. Quando potrete tirare 
 
 delle altre copie ? 
 
 183. Prego mandarmele 
 
 a ? 
 
 184. Ecco I'indirizzo. 
 
 186. Quanto costeranno, 
 compresa la spedizi- 
 one (I'affrancatura) ? 
 
 180. Diese sind zu gross. 
 
 181. Haben Sie keine an- 
 
 dern? 
 
 182. Wie bald konnen Sie 
 
 noch welche machen 
 lassen ? 
 
 183. Konnen Sie sie mir 
 
 nachschicken ? 
 
 184. Da ist meine Adresse. 
 
 185. Das Porto mit ein- 
 
 gerechnet kosten sie 
 wieviel ? 
 
 Visite 
 
 186. E in casa la Signora 
 
 C. ? 
 
 187. Riceve la Signora 
 
 C. ? 
 
 188. Dite che ci rincresce di 
 
 non averla trovata. 
 
 Besuche 
 
 186. Ist Frau C. zu Hause ? 
 
 187. Empfangt Frau C. 
 
 heute ? 
 
 188. Bitte sagen Sie, dass 
 
 wir bedauern sie 
 nicht getroffen zu 
 haben. 
 
 Cortesie, etc. 
 
 189. (Not used in Italian.) 
 
 190. Buon giorno. 
 
 191. Buona sera. 
 
 192. Buona notte. 
 
 193. Grazie. 
 
 194. Mille grazie. 
 
 195. Fatemi il piacere. 
 
 Hojtiche Anreden u.s.w. 
 
 189. Guten Morgen. 
 
 190. Guten Tag. 
 
 191. Guten Abend. 
 
 192. Gute Nacbt. 
 
 193. Danke. Ich danke 
 
 Ihnen. 
 
 194. Danke bestens. 
 
 195. Bitte. 
 
288 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 196. If you please (to an 
 
 equal) . 
 
 197. Will you be so kind as 
 
 to 
 
 198. I am sorry to trouble 
 
 you. 
 
 199. I hope I do not incon- 
 
 venience you. 
 
 200. Excuse me. 
 
 201. I beg your pardon 
 
 202. Do you mind closing 
 
 that window ? 
 
 203. Do you feel any 
 
 draught ? 
 
 204. What o'clock is it ? 
 
 205. How long do we stop 
 
 here ? 
 
 206. How long will it take 
 
 to mend this ? 
 
 207. I do not understand. 
 
 208. I speak only a few 
 
 words of French. 
 
 209. What is the name of 
 
 this ? 
 
 210. What is that church 
 
 called ? 
 
 211. What is that building ? 
 
 212. What is your name ? 
 
 213. I want to go to 
 
 196. Je vous prie. 
 
 197. Ayez la bont^ de 
 
 198. Je suis bien f^ch^e de 
 
 vous d^ranger. 
 
 199. J'esp^re ne pas vous 
 
 d^ranger. 
 
 200. Excusez-moi. 
 
 201. Pardon! 
 
 202. Cela vous incommod- 
 
 erait-il de fermer 
 cette fen§tre ? 
 
 203. Sentez-vous un courant 
 
 d'air ? 
 
 204. Quelle heure est-il ? 
 
 205. Combien de temps 
 
 s'arrete-t-on ici ? 
 
 206. Combien de temps cela 
 
 vous prendra-t-il k 
 raccommoder ceci ? 
 
 207. Je ne comprends pas. 
 
 208. Je ne parle que quelques 
 
 mots de fran9ais. 
 
 209. Comment appelle-t-on 
 
 cela? 
 
 210. Comment s'appelle 
 
 cette ^glise ? 
 
 211. Quel est ce batiment ? 
 
 212. Quel est votre nom ? 
 
 213. Je voudrais aller h 
 
 214. Listen to me. 
 
 215. Take care ! Stop ! 
 
 216. Who is it ? 
 
 217. Come in ! 
 
 214. Ecoutez-moi. 
 
 215. Prenez garde! Arretez! 
 
 216. Qui est-ce ? 
 
 217. Entrez I 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 289 
 
 196. Mi faccia la grazia. 
 
 197. Avrebbe la compia- 
 
 cenza di 
 
 198. Mi rincresce di disturb- 
 
 aiia. 
 
 199. Non vorrei dare incom- 
 
 modo. 
 
 200. Scusi. 
 
 201. Perdoni! 
 
 202. Lei increscerebbe di 
 
 cbiudere quella fines- 
 tra? 
 
 203. Sente corrente d'aria? 
 
 204. Che or' h ? 
 
 205. Quanto tempo si f erma? 
 
 206. Quanto tempo si met- 
 
 tevk per raccomodare 
 questo ? 
 
 207. Non capisco. 
 
 208. Parlo pochissimo I'itali- 
 
 ano. 
 
 209. Come si chiama questo? 
 
 196. Darfichbitten? (Durfte 
 
 ich Sie bemtihen ?) 
 
 197. Wlirden Sie so gut 
 
 sein 
 
 198. Ich bedaure, Sie zu 
 
 bemtihen. 
 
 199. Hoffentlich store ich 
 
 Sie nicht. 
 
 200. Entschuldigen Sie. 
 
 201. Verzeihung. 
 
 202. Mochten Sie jenes 
 
 Fenster wohl schlies- 
 sen? 
 
 203. Zieht es Ihnen von 
 
 diesem Fenster ? 
 
 204. Wie viel Uhr ist es ? 
 
 205. Wie lange halt man 
 
 hier? 
 
 206. Wie lange branchen Sie 
 
 um dies zu flicken ? 
 
 207. Ich verstehe nicht. 
 
 208. Ich kann nur ein paar 
 
 Worte des Deutschen. 
 
 209. Wie heisst das ? 
 
 210. Come si chiama quella 
 
 chiesa ? 
 
 211. Cos' b quella fabbrica? 
 
 212. Come vi chiamate ? 
 
 213. Vorrei andare a 
 
 214. Seutite. 
 
 215. Badate ! 
 
 216. Chi 6? 
 
 217. Avanti! 
 
 u 
 
 Fermatevi ! 
 
 210. Wie heisst jene Kirche ? 
 
 211. Was fiir ein Gebaude 
 
 ist das ? 
 
 212. Wie heisszen Sie ? 
 
 213. Ich wiinsche nach 
 
 zu gehen. 
 
 214. Horen Sie auf. 
 
 215. Geben Sie Achtl Haiti 
 
 216. Wer ist cs ? 
 
 217. Herein. 
 
290 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 A 
 
 FEW VERBS 
 
 TO BE 
 
 ETKB 
 
 Present 
 
 Fresent 
 
 lam 
 
 Je suis 
 
 He, she is 
 
 11, elle est 
 
 We are 
 
 Nous sommea 
 
 You are 
 
 Vous etes 
 
 They are 
 
 lis, elles sont 
 
 Future 
 
 Futur 
 
 I shall be 
 
 Je serai 
 
 He, she will be 
 
 11, elle sera 
 
 We shall be 
 
 Nous serons 
 
 You will be 
 
 Vous serez 
 
 They will be 
 
 Us, elles seront 
 
 Fast 
 
 Fasse 
 
 I have been 
 
 J'ai 6t6 
 
 He, she has been 
 
 11, elle a 6t6 
 
 We have been 
 
 Nous avons 6t6 
 
 You have been 
 
 Vous avez 6t^ 
 
 They have been 
 
 lis, elles ont 6t6 
 
 TO HAVE 
 
 AVOIR 
 
 Fresent 
 
 Present 
 
 I have 
 
 J'ai 
 
 He, she has 
 
 11, elle a 
 
 We have 
 
 Nous avons 
 
 You have 
 
 Vous avez 
 
 They have 
 
 Ds, elles ont 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 291 
 
 A FEW VERBS 
 
 ESSERE 
 
 8EIN 
 
 Fresente 
 
 Frdsens 
 
 Sono 
 
 Ich bin 
 
 E 
 
 Er, sie ist 
 
 Siamo 
 
 Wir sind 
 
 Siete 
 
 Sie sind 
 
 Sono 
 
 Sie sind 
 
 Futuro 
 
 Futurum 
 
 Sard 
 
 Icb werde sein 
 
 Sar^ 
 
 Er, sie wird sein 
 
 Saremo 
 
 Wir werden sein 
 
 Sarete 
 
 Sie werden sein 
 
 Saranno 
 
 Sie werden sein 
 
 Fassato 
 
 Ferfektum 
 
 Sonostato — stata^ 
 
 Ich bin gewesen 
 
 E stato — stata 
 
 Er, sie ist gewesen 
 
 Siamo stati — state 
 
 Wir sind gewesen 
 
 Siete stati 2 
 
 Sie sind gewesen 
 
 Sono stati 
 
 Sie sind gewesen 
 
 AVERS 
 
 HABEN 
 
 Fresente 
 
 Frdsens 
 
 Ho 
 
 Ich habe 
 
 Ha 
 
 Er, sie bat 
 
 Abbiamo 
 
 Wir haben 
 
 Avete 
 
 Sie haben 
 
 Hanno 
 
 Sie haben 
 
 1 Masculine, "stato"; feminine, "stata.* 
 
 2 *« Stati " is correct for both genders. 
 
292 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 Future 
 
 I shall have 
 He, she will have 
 We shall have 
 You will have 
 They will have 
 
 Past — with some participles 
 
 1. had 
 
 2. eaten 
 
 3. drunk 
 
 4. seen 
 
 5. said 
 
 6. done 
 
 7. ordered 
 
 8. sent 
 
 9. called 
 
 10. paid 
 
 11. left 
 
 12. asked 
 
 13. forgotten 
 
 14. read 
 
 15. spoken 
 
 16. written 
 
 17. lost 
 
 18. given 
 
 I have 
 He, she has 
 We have 
 You have 
 They have 
 
 J'ai 
 
 II ou elle a 
 Nous avons 
 Vous avez 
 lis ou elles 
 ont 
 
 Futur 
 
 J'aurai 
 11, elle aura 
 Nous aurons 
 Vous aurez 
 Us, elles auront 
 
 Passe 
 
 1. eu 
 
 2. mang6 
 
 3. bu 
 
 4. vu 
 
 5. dit 
 
 6. fait 
 
 7. command^ 
 
 8. envoys 
 
 9. appel6 
 
 10. pay4 
 
 11. laiss^ 
 
 12. demand^ 
 
 13. oubli^ 
 
 14. lu 
 
 15. parl6 
 
 16. 6crit 
 
 17. perdu 
 .18. donn6 
 
 TO GO 
 
 Present 
 
 I go 
 
 He, she goes 
 We go 
 You go 
 They go 
 
 ALLER 
 
 Present 
 
 Je vais 
 II, elle va 
 Nous allons 
 Vous allez 
 Us, elles vont 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 293 
 
 Futuro 
 
 Futurum 
 
 Ho 
 Ha 
 
 Abl 
 
 Avete 
 
 Hanuo 
 
 Avr5 
 
 
 
 Ich werde haben 
 
 Avr^ 
 
 
 
 Er, sie wird haben 
 
 Avremo 
 
 
 
 Wir werden haben 
 
 Avrete 
 
 
 
 Sie werden haben 
 
 Avrannc 
 
 » 
 
 
 Sie werden haben 
 
 Passato 
 
 
 Perfektum 
 
 
 ' 1. 
 
 avuto 
 
 
 
 1. gehabt 
 
 
 2. 
 
 mangiato 
 
 
 
 2. gegessen 
 
 
 3. 
 
 bevuto 
 
 
 
 3. getrunken 
 
 
 4. 
 
 veduto 
 
 
 
 4. gesehen 
 
 
 5. 
 
 detto 
 
 
 
 5. gesagt 
 
 
 6. 
 
 fatto 
 
 
 
 6. gethan 
 
 mo ■ 
 
 3 
 
 7. 
 
 8. 
 
 9. 
 10. 
 11. 
 12. 
 
 comandato 
 
 mandato 
 
 chiamato 
 
 pagato 
 
 lasciato 
 
 domandato 
 
 Ich habe 
 Er, sie hat 
 Wirhaben ^ 
 Sie haben 
 sie haben 
 
 7. bestellt 
 
 8. geschickt 
 
 9. gerufen 
 
 10. bezahlt 
 
 11. gelassen 
 
 12. gefragt 
 
 
 13. 
 
 dimenticato 
 
 
 
 13. vergessen 
 
 
 14. 
 
 letto 
 
 
 
 14. gelesen 
 
 
 15. 
 
 parlato 
 
 
 
 15. gesprochen 
 
 
 16. 
 
 scritto 
 
 
 
 16. geschrieben 
 
 
 17. 
 
 perduto 
 
 
 
 17, verloren 
 
 
 .18. 
 
 date 
 
 
 
 . 18. gegeben 
 
 ANDARB 
 
 
 GEHEN 
 
 Presente 
 
 
 Prdsens 
 
 Vado 
 
 
 
 Ich gehe 
 
 Va 
 
 
 
 Er, sie geht 
 
 Andiamo 
 
 
 Wir gehen 
 
 Andate 
 
 
 Sie gehen 
 
 \ 
 
 ''a.nno 
 
 
 Sie geh 
 
 en 
 
294 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 Future 
 I shall go 
 He, she will go 
 We shall go 
 You will go 
 They will go 
 
 Past 
 I have gone 
 
 He, she has gone 
 
 We have gone 
 You have gone 
 
 They have gone 
 
 Futur 
 J'irai 
 II, elle ira 
 Nous irons 
 Vous irez 
 lis, elles iront 
 
 Passe 
 Je suis all6 — all6e ^ 
 
 f II est all6 
 
 1 Elle est all^e 
 Nous sommes all^s — allies 
 Vous etes all^s — allies 
 J lis sont all^s 
 
 I Elles sont allies 
 
 TO COME 
 
 Present 
 I come 
 
 He, she comes 
 We come 
 You come 
 They come 
 
 Future 
 I shall come 
 He, she will come 
 We will come 
 You will come 
 They will come 
 
 Past 
 I have come 
 He, she has come 
 We have come 
 You have come 
 
 They have come 
 
 VENIR 
 
 Present 
 Je viens 
 II, elle vient 
 Nous venons 
 Vous venez 
 lis, elles viennent 
 
 Futur 
 Je viendrai 
 II, elle viendra 
 Nous viendrons 
 Vous viendrez 
 lis, elles viendront 
 
 Passe 
 Je suis venu — venue 
 II est venu — Elle est venue 
 Nous sommes venus — venues 
 Vous etes venus — venues 
 r lis sont venus 
 1 Elles sont venues 
 
 1 Masculine aud feuiiniue. 
 
SOME USEFUL PHKASES 
 
 295 
 
 Futuro 
 Andr6 
 Andr^ 
 Anderemo 
 Anderete 
 Andranno 
 
 Passato 
 Sono andato — andata ^ 
 
 E andato — andata 
 
 Siamo andati — andate 
 Siete andati 
 
 Sono andati 
 
 Futurum 
 Icli werde gehen 
 Er, sie wird gehen 
 Wir werden gehen 
 Sie werden gehen 
 Sie werden gehen 
 
 Perfektum 
 Ich bin gegangen 
 
 Er, sie ist gegangen 
 
 Wir sind gegangen 
 Sie sind gegangen 
 
 Sie sind gegangen 
 
 VENIKB 
 
 Presente 
 
 Vengo 
 
 Viene 
 
 Veniamo 
 
 Venite 
 
 Veugono 
 
 Futuro 
 Verr5 
 Verr^ 
 Verremo 
 Verrete 
 Verranno 
 
 Passato 
 Sono venuto — venuta 
 E venuto — venuta 
 Siamo venuti — venute 
 Siete venuti 
 
 Sono venuti 
 
 KOMMEN 
 
 Prdsens 
 Ich komme 
 Er, sie kommt 
 Wir kommen 
 Sie kommen 
 Sie kommen 
 
 Futurum 
 Ich werde kommen 
 Er, sie wird kommen 
 Wir werden kommen 
 Sie werden kommen 
 Sie werden kommen 
 
 Perfektum 
 Ich bin gekommen 
 Er, sie ist gekommen 
 Wir sind gekommen 
 Sie sind gekommen 
 
 Sie sind gekommen 
 
 1 Masculine and feminine. 
 
296 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 
 Numbers 
 
 
 Nomhres 
 
 1. 
 
 One. 
 
 1. 
 
 Un. 
 
 2. 
 
 Two. 
 
 2. 
 
 Deux. 
 
 3. 
 
 Three. 
 
 3. 
 
 Trois. 
 
 4. 
 
 Four. 
 
 4. 
 
 Quatre. 
 
 5. 
 
 Five. 
 
 6. 
 
 Cinq, 
 
 6. 
 
 Six. 
 
 6. 
 
 Six. 
 
 7. 
 
 Seven. 
 
 7. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 8. 
 
 Eight. 
 
 8. 
 
 Huit. 
 
 9. 
 
 Nine. 
 
 9. 
 
 Neuf. 
 
 10. 
 
 Ten. 
 
 10. 
 
 Dix. 
 
 11. 
 
 Eleven. 
 
 11. 
 
 Onze. 
 
 12. 
 
 Tv^^elve. 
 
 12. 
 
 Douze. 
 
 13. 
 
 Thirteen. 
 
 13. 
 
 Treize. 
 
 14. 
 
 Fourteen. 
 
 14. 
 
 Quatorze. 
 
 15. 
 
 Fifteen. 
 
 15. 
 
 Quinze. 
 
 16. 
 
 Sixteen. 
 
 16. 
 
 Seize. 
 
 17. 
 
 Seventeen. 
 
 17. 
 
 Dix-sept. 
 
 18. 
 
 Eighteen. 
 
 18. 
 
 Dix-huit. 
 
 19. 
 
 Nineteen. 
 
 19. 
 
 Dix-neuf. 
 
 20. 
 
 Twenty. 
 
 20. 
 
 Vingt. 
 
 21. 
 
 Twenty-one. 
 
 21. 
 
 Vingt et un. 
 
 22. 
 
 Twenty-two. 
 
 22. 
 
 Vingt-deux. 
 
 30. 
 
 Thirty. 
 
 30. 
 
 Trente. 
 
 40. 
 
 Forty. 
 
 40. 
 
 Quarante. 
 
 50. 
 
 Fifty. 
 
 60. 
 
 Cinquante. 
 
 60. 
 
 Sixty. 
 
 60. 
 
 Soixante. 
 
 70. 
 
 Seventy. 
 
 70. 
 
 Soixante-dix. 
 
 80. 
 
 Eighty. 
 
 80. 
 
 Quatre-vingt. 
 
 90. 
 
 Ninety. 
 
 90. 
 
 Quatre-vingt-dix. 
 
 100. 
 
 One hundred. 
 
 100. 
 
 Cent. 
 
 200. 
 
 Two hundred. 
 
 200. 
 
 Deux cents. 
 
 1,000. 
 
 A thousand. 
 
 1,000. 
 
 Mille. 
 
 2,000. 
 
 Two thousand. 
 
 2,000. 
 
 Deux mille. 
 
 ,000,000. 
 
 A million. 
 
 1,000,000. 
 
 Un million. 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 297 
 
 Numeri 
 
 Nummern 
 
 1. Uno. 
 
 1. Eins. 
 
 2. Due. 
 
 2. Zwei. 
 
 3. Tre. 
 
 3. Drei. 
 
 4. Quattro. 
 
 4. Vier. 
 
 5. Cinque. 
 
 5. Ftinf. 
 
 6. Sei. 
 
 6. Sechs. 
 
 7. Sette. 
 
 7. Sieben. 
 
 8. Otto. 
 
 8. AcM. 
 
 9. Nove. 
 
 9. Neun. 
 
 10. Dieci. 
 
 10. Zehn. 
 
 11. Undici. 
 
 11. Elf. 
 
 12. Dodici. 
 
 12. Zwolf. 
 
 13. Tredici. 
 
 13. Dreizehn. 
 
 14. Quattordici. 
 
 14. Vierzehn. 
 
 15. Quindici. 
 
 15. Funfzeliu. 
 
 16. Sedici. 
 
 16. Sechzehn. 
 
 17. Diciassette. 
 
 17. Siebenzehn. 
 
 18. Diciotto. 
 
 18. Acbtzehn. 
 
 19. Diecinove. 
 
 19. Neunzehn. 
 
 20. Venti. 
 
 20. Zwanzig. 
 
 21. Vent'uno. 
 
 21. Einundzwanzig. 
 
 22. Venti-due. 
 
 22. Zweiundzwanzig. 
 
 30. Trenta. 
 
 30. Dreissig. 
 
 40. Quaranta. 
 
 40. Vierzig. 
 
 60. Cinquanta. 
 
 50. Ftinfzig. 
 
 60. Sessanta. 
 
 60. Sechzig. 
 
 70. Settanta. 
 
 70. Siebenzig. 
 
 80. Ottanta. 
 
 80. Achtzig. 
 
 90. Novanta. 
 
 90. Neunzig. 
 
 100. Cento. 
 
 100. Hundert. 
 
 200. Due cento. 
 
 200. Zweihundert. 
 
 1,000. Mille. 
 
 1,000. EinTausend. 
 
 2,000. Duemila. 
 
 2,000. Zwei Tausend 
 
 ,000,000. Millione. 
 
 1000,000. Eine Million. 
 
298 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 Days of the Week 
 
 Jours de la Semaine 
 
 1. Sunday. 
 
 1. Dimanche. 
 
 2. Monday. 
 
 2. Lundi. 
 
 3. Tuesday. 
 
 3. Mardi. 
 
 4. Wednesday. 
 
 4. Mercredi. 
 
 6. Thursday. 
 
 5. Jeudi. 
 
 6. Friday. 
 
 6. Vendredi. 
 
 7. Saturday. 
 
 7. Samedi. 
 
 Months 
 
 Les Mois 
 
 1, January. 
 
 1. Janvier. 
 
 2. February. 
 
 2. F^vrier. 
 
 3. March. 
 
 3. Mars. 
 
 4. April. 
 
 4. Avril. 
 
 5. May. 
 
 6. Mai. 
 
 6. June. 
 
 6. Juin. 
 
 7. July. 
 
 7. Juillet. 
 
 8. August. 
 
 8. Aout. 
 
 9. September. 
 
 9. Septembre. 
 
 10. October. 
 
 10. Octobre. 
 
 11. November. 
 
 11. Novembre. 
 
 12. December. 
 
 12. D^cembre. 
 
 Seasons 
 
 Les Saisons 
 
 1. Spring. 
 
 1. Le printemps. 
 
 2. Summer. 
 
 2. L'^t6. 
 
 3. Autumn. 
 
 3. L'automne. 
 
 4. Winter. 
 
 4. L'hiver. 
 
 Festivals 
 
 Fetes 
 
 1. Advent. 
 
 1. L'Avent. 
 
 2. Christmas. 
 
 2. Noel. 
 
 3. Epiphany. 
 
 3. L'Epiphanie (Jour des 
 
 
 Kois). 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 299 
 
 Giorni delta Settimana 
 
 1. Domenica. 
 
 2. Lunedi. 
 
 3. Martedi. 
 
 4. Mercoledi. 
 
 5. Giovedi. 
 
 6. Venerdi. 
 
 7. Sabato. 
 
 Die Tage der Woche 
 
 1. Sonntag. 
 
 2. Moiitag. 
 
 3. Dienstag. 
 
 4. Mittwoch. 
 6. Donnerstag. 
 
 6. Freitag. 
 
 7. Sonnabend (Samstag). 
 
 Mese 
 
 1. Gennaio. 
 
 2. Febbraio. 
 
 3. Marzo. 
 
 4. Aprile. 
 
 5. Maggio. 
 
 6. Giugno. 
 
 7. Luglio. 
 
 8. Agosto. 
 
 9. Settembre. 
 
 10. Ottobre. 
 
 11. Novembre. 
 
 12. Dicembre. 
 
 Die Monate 
 
 1. Januar. 
 
 2. Februar. 
 
 3. Marz. 
 
 4. April. 
 6. Mai, 
 
 6. Juni. 
 
 7. Juli. 
 
 8. August. 
 
 9. September. 
 
 10. October. 
 
 11. November. 
 
 12. Dezember. 
 
 Stagioni 
 
 1. La prim a vera. 
 
 2. L' estate. 
 
 3. L'autunno. 
 
 4. L'inverno. 
 
 Die Jahreszeiten 
 
 1. Der Frtihling. 
 
 2. Der Sommer. 
 
 3. Der Herbst. 
 
 4. Der Winter. 
 
 Giorni di Festa 
 
 1 . Avvento. 
 
 2. Natale. 
 
 3. Epifania. 
 
 Die Kirchenfeste 
 
 1. Advent. 
 
 2. Weihnachten (Christ- 
 
 tag). 
 
 3. Epiphania (Erscheinung 
 
 Christi) . 
 
300 
 
 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 4. Shrove Tuesday. 
 
 5. Ash Wednesday. 
 
 6. Lent. 
 
 7. Holy Week. 
 
 8. Good Friday. 
 
 9. Easter. 
 
 10. Ascension. 
 
 11. Whitsunday. 
 
 12. Assumption (Aug. 15). 
 
 13. Corpus Christi. 
 
 14. All Saints' Day (Nov. 1) . 
 
 15. All Souls' Day (Nov. 2). 
 
 4. Mardi Gras. 
 
 5. Mercredi des Cendres. 
 
 6. Le Careme. 
 
 7. La Semaine Sainte. 
 
 8. Vendredi-Saint. 
 
 9. Paques. 
 
 10. L'Ascencion. 
 
 11. Pentecdte. 
 
 12. L'Assomption. 
 
 13. La Fete-Dieu. 
 
 14. La Toussaint. 
 
 15. Jour des Ames (Jour des 
 
 Morts). 
 
SOME USEFUL PHRASES 
 
 301 
 
 4. Martedi grasso. 
 
 6. Le Ceneri. 
 
 6. Qiiaresima. 
 
 7. La Settimana Santa. 
 
 8. Venerdi Santo. 
 
 9. Pasqua. 
 
 10. Ascenzione. 
 
 IL Pentecoste. 
 
 12. Assunta. 
 
 13. Corpus Domini. 
 
 14. Ognissanti. 
 
 15. Giorno del Morti. 
 
 4. Fastnacht. 
 
 5. Aschermittwoch. 
 
 6. Fasten. 
 
 7. Charwoche. 
 
 8. Cliarfreitag. 
 
 9. Ostein. 
 
 10. Himmelfahrt. 
 
 11. Pfingsten. 
 
 12. Maria Himmelfahrt. 
 
 13. Frohnleichnam. 
 
 14. Aller Heiligen. 
 
 15. Aller Seelen. 
 
HOW WOMEN MAY EARN 
 A LIVING 
 
 A Handbook of Occupations for "Women 
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 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK 
 
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 HOME NURSING -Vj^ 
 
 Modem Scientific Methods for the Sick Room 
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 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK