w- Class Book. SMITHSONIAN DEPOSIT ?0 / O ^3 TANNING LEATHER FACILITATED, BY DAVID H. KENNEDY'S PROCESS. THE ART TANNING LEATHER A NEW AND IMPROVED SYSTEM THEORETICALLY AND PRACTICALLY CONSIDEEED IN ALL ITS DETAILS. Discovered, and Patented April 14th, 1857. david h. Kennedy, NEW ALEXANDRIA, PENNSYLVANIA Illustrated with Twenty-five Wood Engravings and a Portrait of the Author. Efylxti fEtfftton, fottf) antittums. NEW YOEK: BAKER & GODWIN, PRINTERS, NO. 1 SPRUCE STREET. 185?. <*s mr Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by DAVID H. KENNEDY, the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New York. LETTERS PATENT GRANTED ENGLAND, IRELAND, WALES, THE CHANNEL ISLANDS AND THE ISLE OF MAN, On the 4th day of January, A. D. 1854. FEANCE, On the 20th day of February, A. D. 1854. BELGIUM, On the 27th day of April, A. D. 1854. THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, On the 14th day of April, A. D. 1857. RUSSIA AND SPAIN APPLIED FOR. BY DAVID H. KENNEDY, OF NEW ALEXANDRIA, PENNSYLVANIA. These directions, when filled up, are not to be left exposed to the examination of such as may desire to- possess themselves of their secrets. But should, for the benefit of the Patentee as well as the purchaser, be strictly kept from the public eye. CONTENTS Page. Preface H CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. Returns of the Census of A. D. 1852, showing the condition of the Tanning interest 13 CHAPTER II. The different kinds of Skins suitable for Tan- ning — Buenos Ayres hides — Brazilian hides — Cow-hides — American Ox-hides — Spanish or South American dry hides — Calcutta or Nagore hides — Calf-skins — Horse-hides — Goat-skins — Sheep-skins — Deer-skins — and the Mode of Salting hides 37 6 CONTENTS. Page. CHAPTER III. Structure and Composition of the Skin — Fibrine — Gelatine — Albumen — Animal Matter — Tannic Acid uniting with Gelatine and forming Leather 59 CHAPTER IV. Soaking. Softening, and Washing Hides — An Illustration, with a Description of the Hide- mill and Washing-machine 69 CHAPTER V. Composition No. 1. For removing Hair, Wool, Grease, Mucus, and other impurities from the Skins — An Illus- tration, with a full description of the Beam- house 81 CHAPTER VI. Bating. Reducing the Skins to their Original Thick- ness 91 CONTENTS. 7 Page. CHAPTER VII. The Properties of the Ingredients used in the Composition for Tanning — Their effects upon the Hides — The Places of Production — The New York Prices 95 CHAPTER VIII. Composition No. 2. For Tanning — The proper proportions of In- gredients, with full and clear Directions for using them — A Description of the Bark- ometer 109 CHAPTER IX. Example. Tanning one hundred common-sized Calf-skins, 121 CHAPTER X. Example. Tanning thirty Ox-hides for the Manufacture of Patent Leather — The Handling-house, with Notes — Splitting-machine 133 8 CONTENTS. Page. CHAPTER XL Example. Tanning fifty sides of Sole-leather 149 CHAPTER XII. Currying and Finishing Leather — Shaving- Harness Leather — Blacked Bridle — Russet Bridle — Horse Leather — Wax Leather — Grained Leather — Patent Leather 167 CHAPTER XIII. The Texture and Quality of Leather 185 CHAPTER XIV. Remarks on Tanning — Illustration of Clinton Tannery, with Notes 195 CHAPTER XV. The Mechanics' True Position. A Word of Cheer to the Hearty Tanner 217 CONTENTS. 9 Page. CHAPTER XVI. The Tanners' Cheer. Illustrated by a Party of Tanners Singing the words to the tune of the Marseillaise Hymn, 243 CHAPTER XVII. Copy of Patent granted, in the United States, on the 14th day of April, 1857 249 CHAPTER XVHl, Copy of Specification of Patent 253 PREFACE. The following directions have been prepared expressly for information as to the practical application of scientific principles which characterize the pro- gress of the improvement, and are offered to that portion of the public which is interested in the leather and tanning business. Like every other art, that of tanning has lately made great progress towards perfection. Ingenious and practical men have devoted their energies to actual experiments, and chemical agencies have been employed with varied success, 12 PREFACE. until, at length, the desideratum seems to have been attained, which affords a new and complete substitute for -the manufacturing of all kinds of leather. This must soon give it a world-wide celebrity, and entitle it to the attention of all concerned in the leather business. The Patentee, Mr. K., takes great pleas- ure in giving a comprehensive descrip- tion of the different preparations for using the improvement ; and I subscribe my hearty good wishes for the success of the invention for the purpose of pro- curing the desired information. Inqui- ries have been directed to the consulta- tion of Sir Humphrey Davy, Professors Turner and Ure, and several other cele- brated authors. In this way the author has obtained the most accurate knowl- edge of the chemistry of tanning, and for giving a full and comprehensive treatise on changing hides into leather. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. The art of tanning is that by which animal skins are converted into leather, a product differing entirely from that of the raw material, and adapting it to the useful purpose for which it is employed. The properties imparted are of a physical nature, and vary with the kind of skin employed and the modifica- tions of the process which it undergoes. Chemically considered, however, leather is a definite compound of tannin and gelatin. Tanning, as an art, dates as 14 INTRODUCTION. far back as nine hundred years before Christ. The methods resorted to in early times consisted of little more than merely cleansing and drying the skins ; and, thus prepared, the latter were used for clothing, &c. Leather was largely in use among the ancient Egyptians, and the workers of that material were so numerous that the Memnonian quarter, Thebes, was charac- terized as their especial locality. Their skill in fashioning it was so great that ornaments of all shapes and devices were made from it. Leather was made by them into tapestry, and many of the Egyptian tombs bear representations of artificers in leather engaged in the several branches of their vocation. The principal steps in the manufac- ture of leather are the washing and soaking, for the purpose of cleaning and softening the skins, and preparing them INTRODUCTION. 15 for the removal of the hair. This is effected by the use of lime, or other substances which destroy, dissolve, or soften the bulbous roots of the hair, and thus facilitate its removal by mere mechanical scraping with a blunt- edged knife. During this part of the process, another important end is gen- erally accomplished in the swelling of the tissues and their preparations for the more complete and easy absorption of the tanning principle. The primitive mode of removing the hair was that of shaving it off with a knife ; but the use of lime was known even among the early Egyptians. When the rationale of depilation is better understood by practical tanners, the slow and incon- venient process of depilation by means of lime must give place to more effective, rapid, and economical methods. In later times, these defects were remedied 16 INTRODUCTION. by immersing the cleansed and de- haired skin in an infusion of oak bark or solution of alum, and thus, by effect- ing a union between one or more con- stituents of the liquor and a gelatinous tissue of the skin, producing a new- compound with desirable properties. The principles governing this reaction have been, in more recent days, devel- oped by the investigations of Proust, Deyeaux, McBride, and Sir Humphrey Davy ; and it is owing to the researches of these inquirers that the occupation of the tanner has been elevated from the condition of an empirical pursuit to that of an art based upon scientific princi- ples. Many improvements in the art have been made by the aid of inge- niously contrived machinery, and much has been done to hasten the process of tanning. Tanning consists in the combination of INTRODUCTION. 17 the gelatinous tissue with tannin by im- mersing the skins in an infusion of oak bark or other substances containing tannin. The tanning influence is proba- bly not exerted solely by the tannin, but also partly by the extractive matter, more or less of which always exists in the tanning material. During the soaking, the epidermis of the skins disappears, and the tissue of the latter is gelatinized, and thus predis- posed to chemical union with the tannin. This gelatinization of the tissues is all- essential, and is promoted by the gallic acid fermentation of the tanning mate- rial. This is the more probable science. The same effect may be produced by the use of a very dilute acetic, and other operations intended to perfect the quality and appearance of the leather. Leather is employed for many useful and ornamental purposes ; and numerous 2* 18 INTRODUCTION. are its applications to various branches of industry. Besides its extensive use for covering the head and feet, wearing apparel, saddles, harness, carriages, and the purposes of the book-binder, it is largely employed for the embellishment of objects of taste and ornament. In- dependently of the direct importance of the leather trade, it exerts a very decided incidental influence in devel- oping the resources of a country, by giving value to certain materials used in and resulting from its manufacture. Besides the immense employment which it gives to thousands of artisans, it has built up colonies and towns, which owe their origin and progress entirely to the interests connected with it. Even the waste materials of slaughter-houses, tan- neries, curriers' shops and workers in leather, have important applications — the horns serving for the manufacture INTRODUCTION. 19 of combs, buttons, and umbrella furni- ture ; the hair for plastering ; the spent lime for the farmer; the skin-clippings for the glue-boiler ; and the leather shavings for the manufacturer of prus- siate of potash. The following state- ments will give an idea of the vast extent and rapid increase of the trade in leather. In France — a country eminent for the quantity and quality of the leather which it produces — the average number of skins annually converted into leather is about three millions of whole skins, exclusive of sheep and calf skins. In the United States, the manufacture of leather is only beginning to be of much importance. Since the early part of the present century it has been rapidly extended, until it has become, with its allied and dependent arts, one of the most prominent elements of national 20 INTRODUCTION. prosperity. This improved system is conducted in the most simple and primi- tive manner. The expenditure both of time and labor is now materially re- duced by the different modes and treatment of the process. The unpar- alleled success which has attended the introduction of the patent process set forth in this work, and the nattering encomiums bestowed upon the direc- tions given in a former edition, induce me to extend them a little farther, hoping they will be understood by all those who will avail themselves of this improved system for the manufacture of leather. I have extended the information in this, the third edition of directions, and hope that my fellow-tanners will read them with a generous allowance for the imperfect style in which they are given ; hoping, also, that they will keep in INTRODUCTION. 21 mind that they are not fiction, but sober truths, intended expressly for the appli- cation of the process. For some time past my whole time and attention have been given exclu- sively to the introduction of this pro- cess, believing from the first that its merits would, in time, bring it into general use, which is now acknowledged to be a fixed fact by those most con- versant with it. Its general adoption is now only a question of time ; for as fast as it becomes known it is adopted. This being the case, I wish to give all the information I can respecting the manner and different methods of using it. To those tanners who have adopted and seen fit to recommend this new process for tanning leather, I return my sincere thanks, and assure them that their kindness to me, and approbation of the improvement, wi]l not be for- gotten. 22 INTRODUCTION. We append a statistical table, com- piled from the returns of the seventh census, showing the condition of the tanning interest. The National Intelligencer compiles, from the census returns, the following table of the tanneries in the United States, in A. D. 1850 : No. of establishments, . . 9,263 Capital invested, . . . $18,900,557 Value of raw material, . 19,613,237 Value of product, . . . 32,861,796 The number of hides is 6,128,070; skins, 2,653,865; and about 6,000,000 sheep, goat, and other small skins tan- ned and dressed annually, which are not included in the number. The number of hands employed is 20,909 males and 102 females. The monthly wages of the males amount to $416,214 ; of the females, $970. The number of sides of INTRODUCTION. 23 leather produced annually, is 12,557,940, and of skins, 2 7 653,865. The foregoing estimates were care- fully compiled from the returns of the seventh census, for the National Intel- ligencer, and may be considered correct. Leather forms one of the heaviest items among the staples of American merchandise, and the demands for it are daily increasing, in addition to its extensive employment for the embel- lishment of objects of taste and orna- ment. If we take it for granted that the leather trade has advanced in amount at the rate of 10 per cent, per annum, for the last seven years, the figures should now stand thus : Amount of capital in- vested, .... $32,030,946 90 Value of raw material, 33,342,502 90 Value of product, . . 55,865,053 20 24 INTRODUCTION. These calculations may fall short of, but it is believed that they do not exceed, the truth. They may at least serve to indicate the vast extent and rapid increase of the leather trade in this country. But what must it be a quarter of a century hence \ At the present rate of increase, we may fairly calculate that in twenty-five years hence the tanning and currying business will have teipled, thus placing it almost in the van of all domestic manufactures. A business of such ex- tent and importance, well deserves the attention of the manufacturer, for what- ever abridges and facilitates the process, adds to the value of the capital invested. The claims of this Patent are reason- able and philosophical. Tanning is wholly a chemical process, converting hides into leather. The perfection of the results of this process, depends not INTRODUCTION. 25 so much upon the energy and proper combination of such astringent proper- ties and chemicals as are employed to effect it. The more rapid the action of these agents, and the quicker their work is done, the more perfect is the article manufactured. This is the doc- trine of the improvement set forth in this work ; and its correctness, econ- omy, and great utility, we are ready to submit to the scrutiny of science and the test of the most thorough experi- ment. The leather manufactured by this process is of a finer texture, softer, sus- ceptible of a higher finish, less porous, more pliable, stronger, heavier, and more durable than leather tanned in the ordi- nary way. The quality of the material itself — which any man may examine — and its use and trial for years, authorize these high claims. They are announced 26 INTRODUCTION. to the public with the most implicit confidence in their accuracy and relia- bility. We respectfully invite particular at- tention to the following statements : — ■ The numerous and great advantages of this improvement, both to the manu- facturer and to the consumer, are mat- ters on which the most satisfactory information may be obtained. The adoption of this process by every tanner in the United States is practic- able. It consists chiefly in the applica- tion of a proper compound or combina- tion of certain chemicals to the usual bark, liquors or other astringent prop- erties, possessing tannin, thereby caus- ing a much more rapid advancement in the tanning of leather than is or can be produced by the ordinary process. It requires no new fixtures or expensive outlay. After the hides are tanned by INTRODUCTION. 2*7 this process, the scouring, stuffing, oil- ing, blackening, and finishing are con- ducted as they ever have been. This improvement will be found of great general economy and utility. A correct knowledge of it must secure its universal adoption. The following facts sustain this conclusion:- — Many of the most experienced, scientific, and enlight- ened tanners and other artisans con- nected with the manufacture or sale of leather, have certified to the superior excellence of the leather manufactured by this process, as possessing all the es- sential properties requisite for beauty and utility. We believe a similar opin- ion is entertained by all who have care- fully examined the leather, and who are competent to form a correct judgment of the article manufactured. To capitalists, and especially to those who have invested large amounts of 28 INTRODUCTION. money in the manufacture of leather, the following estimates, showing the difference in the expense of tanning, be- tween the old method and this patent process of tanning, will be interesting : — ONE YEAE'S WOKK BY THE OLD METHOD. To present this matter so as it may be readily comprehended by those doing a small business, we will exhibit it on a a small scale. Under the old metiiod of tanning with bark, two men will tan and finish 4,000 sides of sole leather in one year. Their wages, at $30 per month, will be $720 ; the sides, in the raw and dry state, will weigh on an average, 11 lbs. per side, making 44,000 lbs. ; at 32 cents per lb., they will cost $14,080 ; they will consume 270 cords of oak bark, at $7 per cord, making $1,890 ; rent of tan-yard, $150, interest on hides, $844 80; interest on bark, INTRODUCTION. 29 $113 40; whole cost when finished, is $17,798 20. The 4,000 sides of leather will weigh on an average, 16 lbs. per side, making 64,000 lbs. At 32 cents per lb. they would bring $20,480, afford- ing a net gain of $2,681 80 for one year's tanning on the old system. one year's work by this new PROCESS. Under this patented improved system of tanning, one man will tan and finish 4,000 sides in one year. At $30 per month, his wages will be $360 ; the sides will weigh on an average in the raw and dry state, 11 lbs. per side, making 44,000 lbs.; at 32 cents per lb. they will cost $14,080 ; they will consume 135 cords of bark at $7 per cord, mak- ing $945, and chemicals to the amount of $600; rent of tan-yard, $150; the interest on the hides for six months, will 30 INTRODUCTION. be $422 40 ; the interest on the chemi- cals will be $18 ; the interest on the bark will be $28 35 ; making the whole cost of tanning 4,000 sides under this system, only $16,243 75. The weight of the 4,000 sides when finished, will be, on an average, 17 lbs. per side, making 68,000 lbs. of leather — a gain in weight of 4,000 lbs. over those tanned by the old method at 32 cents per lb. ; —the whole would bring $21,760. The net gain is $5,516 25. Showing an advantage over the old method of tan- ning in one year, even on this limited scale, of $2,834 45 ; besides, the leather tanned by this process has a brighter color, more the appearance of oak-tan- ned leather, and commands a higher price in the market. The above is a clear and accurate cal- culation of the cost of tanning, both with this process and the old method, INTRODUCTION. 31 and the result makes its own appeal to the good sense of all who are anywise interested in the profits arising from leather. Tanners ! see yon not that if so much can be saved by applying this patent process to tanning on so diminu- tive a scale, that the ratio of profit would be vastly increased by employ- ing it on a more extended plan ? You are invited to investigate this matter. If, on examination, you find that a sub- stantial saving of even ten or fifteen per cent, can be made on a year's business by adopting this new process, you will not fail to see where your interest leads you ; for ten per cent, over and above your accustomed profits would, in a few years, secure for you an independent fortune. It is plain that the advantages of this mode of tanning, even to one who tans only sole leather on a small scale, are 32 INTRODUCTION. very great ; and to those who find it difficult to obtain the usual quantity of bark, it will be invaluable. Where bark is plenty and can be obtained at a small cost, it also is valuable, for only one-half the usual quantity of bark will be found necessary. By adopting this method then, the tanner who consumes 1,000 cords of bark per year, will re- quire only 500 cords ; a saving at once of from $1,600 to $2,000 on bark alone, in one year. A brief summary of the advantages of this patent process of tanning, may be stated thus : Hides or skins can be tanned at much less expense than by the usual method. Common size calf, sheep, goat, deer, or other similar skins, can be tanned in from four to twelve days, at an expense of from fifty cents to one dollar and fifty cents per dozen. Heavier leather, INTRODUCTION. 33 such as kip, upper, bridle, skirting, harness, and sole leather, can be tanned in from twenty to ninety days, with a proportionate increase of expense, ac- cording to the thickness of the hide and strength of liquors used. The liquors used in this process are in all cases applied to the hides or skins only in a cold state, and the leather manufactured by it has been found to possess more pliability, greater strength and durability, and a much larger in- crease of weight. It forms a finer tex- ture, and gives it a handsomer bloom, and consequently finishes much better ; thereby rendering it more impervious to water than leather tanned by the old method. The whole process can be learned by any tanner in a very short time. The apparatus and the different stages of the process of tanning, are the same 34 INTRODUCTION. or similar to the usual method ; but capable, in fitting a new establishment, of being more compactly arranged, and at much less expense. It requires less room or space to carry on the business. Parties wishing to satisfy themselves on any point named in this or any other chapter of this work on which it is proper to give general information, are invited to call on the patentee or his agent, and examine the sys- tem in its practical operations, see the leather manufactured, and witness ex- periments which they are prepared to make at any time, for the purpose of illustrating and corroborating the claims of this patent, for which letters were granted on the 14th day of April, 1857. CHAPTER II. THE HIDES SUITABLE FOR TANNING. The hides and skins retain their original name nntil they have been sub- jected to the treatment of the various processes they have to undergo before they become leather. The quality of leather depends not only upon the nature of the skin and the mode of tanning it, but upon the result of numerous minor details, which require especial care and attention. Skins from large cattle are best, provided they are not thin and flabby, for such will make 38 HIDES SUITABLE only inferior leather. Those from cattle slaughtered in the colder months give five per cent, more leather than hides taken in summer. The nature of the food and state of the animal's health, also, 'have an influence upon the quality of the hide. For the production of forty pounds of leather, there are required, on an average, twenty-five pounds of dry hide, fifty-six pounds of salted hide, or seventy pounds of marked hide. SPANISH, OR WILD BULLOCK. Buenos Ayres hides are taken from the wild cattle which are run down by hunters. After being removed from FOR TANNING. 39 the carcass they are spread upon the ground, with the flesh side uppermost, and left exposed to the sun and air until dry. To prevent shrinking, the hides are kept stretched by means of wooden pegs driven through the corners into the earth. One of these cattle, a Spanish bul- lock of the largest size, is before repre- sented ; and also the natives or hunters in search of wild cattle are represented by a wood engraving in front of this chapter. Brazilian hides are nearly all slaugh- tered in the ordinary manner. It would be greatly to the interest of the tanner, and would save him much annoyance, if all hides were imported in a green state : that is, merely salted ; for, when dry, it is very difficult even for the most experienced to detect many de- fects which would impair the quality of 40 HIDES SUITABLE the leather into which they are to be converted. The large ox hides are the ones chiefly used for conversion into sole leather; for cow skins, though of denser structure, are rather too thin for this purpose, and are, therefore, reserved for making saddler's leather. This re- mark applies only to the hides of old cows that have repeatedly calved. OLD COW. These are weak and distended, but often tan well, and make good harness leather, and sometimes make a very good quality of upper leather. The FOR TANNING. 41 hides of heifers, on the contrary, are equal, if not superior, to those of oxen. Bull hides, on the other hand, are the least esteemed for making good leather, being thinner and more flabby than those of either oxen or cows. AMERICAN FAT WORKING OX. A well-fed, moderately-worked ox, when slaughtered in a healthy condi- tion, will naturally yield a hide of normal quality; but if sick, lean, or deficient in hair at the time of being killed, then the hide is not adapted for making good leather. Should the ani- mal die suddenly by accident, without 42 HIDES SUITABLE being in a diseased condition, the quality of the hide is not thereby impaired. The hides from unhealthy bullocks or horses present a decided difference from those of the same ani- mals slaughtered in a sound condition. This difference is not distinguishable by any very evident characteristic, though it seldom escapes the sagacity of an experienced tanner. There are no definite rules for estimating the quality of hides. If a skin is free from any defects, and has sufficient strength and thickness, with body and firmness, then it may be presumed that it will tan well and make good leather. A skin presenting the opposite charac- teristics — that is, flabby, soft, thin, weak, and will not bear handling — should not be considered reliable. These signs, how- ever, are not always unerring, for anom- alous cases frequently occur. Indeed. FOR TANNING. 43 it may sometimes happen that the hides from a diseased carcass, differing in appearance from the rest, will produce excellent leather. As the skins could not be kept any length of time in a fresh state without being injured by putrefaction ; and as it would be impossible to transfer them as soon as slaughtered to the tan vats, they are preserved unaltered by salting or drying them. The country butchers stretch them out in drying-lofts or in the shade, while those in the city gen- erally salt them. In the sale of unsalted green hides there are certain reprehensi- ble frauds which it is difficult to pro- vide against. For instance^ not only are the horns, ears, and other less valua- ble parts left upon the skin, but some butchers, in order still further to increase its weight, beds the animal before slaughtering in filth and mire, 44 HIDES SUITABLE and then, after skinning it, trail the hide on the dusty ground. Domestic, slaughtered, and heavy hides are converted into sole, belt, and harness leather. The very largest are selected and enameled for carriage tops. The smaller and lighter ones are used for skirting and bridle leather. In the old method they have to undergo a bleaching process, termed fair finish, which is avoided in this process of tanning. The smaller hides are some- times converted into upper, and also for enameling and japanning, termed patent leather, when intended for shoes. The hides from the northern latitudes are preferable to those from the south. Hides from the extreme south are par- ticularly objectionable for conversion into leather. Those from California, when free from the defects caused by unskillful skinning, are of good quality. FOR TANNING. 45 and will tan well and make good leather. SPANISH BULLOCK. Spanish or South American dry hides are generally converted into sole leather and occasionally into "belt leather. Those imported in the green and salted state are sometimes made into upper leather, which is of fair quality. African hides from the west coast make good uppers ; but they are largely used in their raw state for covering hair trunks. Madagascar hides are good when perfect, which is rarely the case, as they are liable to injury during curing transit. The hides of the neat yearlings go into calf skins. Of these latter, there 46 HIDES SUITABLE are "patna" kips, and common calf for bookbinders. The patna' kips are very inferior, though frequently sold as " Cal- cutta kips." CALCUTTA, OR NAGORE BULLOCK. Calcutta or Nag ore Cattle. — These cattle grow to a very large size, and are used in India by the higher orders to draw their state carriages, and are much valued for their size, speed, and endur- ance, and sell at very high prices. They will travel, with a rider on their back, fifteen or sixteen hours a day, at the rate of six miles an hour. Their action is particularly fine. The Nagore cattle FOR TANNING. 47 bring their hind legs under them in as straight a line as the horse. They are very active, and can clear a five-barred gate with the greatest ease. Hides from Calcutta or Nagore cattle have the distinctive property of greater weight, and, when perfectly tanned, make a superior quality of leather. Tanners have undertaken to tan them, but failed in the experiment and pro- nounced the hides worthless. I, at one time, for an experiment, tanned six dozen of Calcutta kip skins, in the space of fourteen days, by this process of tanning ; and the leather pro- duced was of a very handsome quality. They were pronounced to be a superior article of leather by some of the best judges and most experienced leather manufacturers. One dozen of those skins were taken to the State fair in Pennsylvania, and were awarded the 48 HIDES SUITABLE first premium for being the best leather on exhibition. These kips sold at an advance price of fifteen per cent, in the Philadelphia market. Hides from the largest of these cattle are best suited for making good leather, being strong and heavy, provided they have not undergone any injury during the importation. A few kips come from South Amer- ica, and some from England and Ireland. The supplies of the tanneries are mostly domestic skins. CALF READY FOR SLAUGHTERING. Calf Skins are valued in proportion to their strength and size, and, when properly tanned, make excellent leather FOR TANNING. 49 for boots and shoes, and also make supe- rior patent japanned (termed patent calf skin) leather for fine wear. The skins of young calves are sometimes converted into parchment. The French tanners, who are renowned for the excellence of their calf leather, use the skins taken from animals of Hve or six months of age. Those from calves of less than two months old are very infe- rior, and only suitable for the manufac- ture of parchment. Calf skins tanned by this process have superior advantages over those tanned by the old method. I have fre- quently heard gentlemen say they wore a pair of calf-skin boots on their feet which were manufactured from leather tanned by this process, and that they have worn them every day for a period of four months, without overshoes, and their feet have not been damp once, 50 HIDES SUITABLE though they have repeatedly walked in the snow and sleet; and at present there is not the slightest appearance of cracking in the uppers, and the soles are apparently as good as the first day they put them on their feet. Calf-skins tanned by this process possess more strength, have a finer texture, and pro- duce a handsomer grain ; are more pliable and durable, and more impervi- ous to moisture, than when tanned by the old method. MUSTANG, OR WILD HORSE. FOR TANNING. 51 Hoese Hides are tanned for uppers, and make good leather. They are also tanned for thongs, for sewing belts, &c, and are the best material for that pur- pose. Horse hides make good leather for japanning and enameling purposes ; when well tanned and properly finished, make a superior leather for shoes and fancy mountings for ornaments of taste. Goat Skins, when tanned and curried, are used for the uppers of ladies' shoes. Tanned in a particular manner and dyed with fancy colors, they constitute 52 HIDES SUITABLE Morocco or Turkey leather. The best goat skins come from Mexico, and are known in commerce as Tampico skins. The sound skins from the Cape of Good Hope are very large, and far superior to those from Madras and the Cape de Verds. Goat skins, when properly tanned and manufactured into good Morocco, make a superior leather for ladies' and gentlemen's wear, which is soft and pliable to the feet. SHEEP AND LAMB. Sheep Skins, when tanned in the old way, make a spongy, weak leather, used principally for lining and trunk trim- mings. Saddlers and bookbinders also FOR TANNING. 53 use them largely. "When tanned by this process, they can be curried and blackened the same as calf skins ; and they will make a very good leather for light shoes. I have frequently tanned sheep skins by this process, and finished them in the same manner as true Morocco. The results of the many experiments prove to our fullest satisfaction, that sheep skins, when tanned and finished in this way, have many advantages over the old method of tanning leather: they are finer, more pliable and durable, and more impervious to moisture ; and, when manufactured into boots and shoes for summer wear, they give full satisfaction to all who will give them a fair trial. 54 HIDES SUITABLE Deer Skins, when tanned and fin- ished in a proper manner, are nsed for the uppers of shoes ; and, when finished in a particular way, make a superior leather for many purposes. By tawing, they are converted into chamois or wash leather, which is also made from goat skin. Leather is differently designated in commerce, according to the use for which it is intended. For example: harness leather is blackened on the grain ; russet is fair finished leather ; wax leather is blackened on the flesh FOR TANNING. 55 side; and buff is that with the grain divided by careful shaving, and black- ened on the grain side. There are vari- ous methods of manufacturing patent leather which I will not describe mi- nutely. Mode of Salting Hides. — This meth- od consists in laying open the hide upon the ground and sprinkling the flesh sides with salt, more liberally at the edges and spinal portions than on other parts. They are then folded or doubled lengthwise down the center ; the remaining folds are made over each other, commencing with the shank, then the peak of the belly upon the back, afterward the head upon the tail part, •and the tail part upon the head; and lastly, by doubling the whole with a final fold and forming a square of one or two feet. This being done, they are then piled three and three together, and 5* 56 HIDES SUITABLE FOR TANNING. left until the salt has dissolved and penetrated their tissue, which generally requires two or three days. Thus pre- pared, they are sent to market. Skins may be dried, even after having been salted, by stretching them upon poles, with the flesh side uppermost, and ex- posing them to dry air in a shady place. Ten pounds of salt in summer, and some- what less in winter, are requisite for each skin of ordinary size. CHAPTER III. COMPOSITION OF THE SKIN. The skin of animals consists of an ex- terior covering, the epidermis, or cuticle, under which is a thin stratum of a pe- culiar substance, called by anatomists, rete mucosum, which lies immediately upon the cutis corium dermis, or true skin. The epidermis varies in thickness on different parts of the body; it is little prone to decomposition, insoluble in water, in alcohol, and dilute acids. Concentrated nitric and sulphuric acids soften and ultimately dissolve it. The 60 COMPOSITION OF caustic fixed alkalies dissolve it even when considerably diluted, but not the carbonated alkalies. It is stained by several substances, so far indelibly that the color remains till the cuticle peels off. It does not combine with tannin. Corns, and similar induration, resemble the epidermis in their general chemical characters ; and horn, hoof, calves' feet, cows' heels, sheep's trotters, pigs' petitoes, nails, claws, tortoise shell, hair, wool, feathers, and scales may be regarded as modifications of it. All these substances partake more or less of the character of dry albumen, and Hatchett's researches have shown that the analogies between them are, in many cases, only broken by the presence of foreign substances. The general color of the surface of the body resides in the rete mucosum, the tint of which is much dependent upon the influence of light. THE SKIN. 61 The black skin of the African, the brown of the Asiatic and American, and the pinkish-white of the European, derive their color from this peculiar secretion deposited between the cutis and cuticle. The nature of this sub- stance has not been chemically investi- gated, but it has been ascertained, in regard to the black of the negro, that it admits of being bleached by chlorine. The cutis or true skin is of a fibrous texture, and, when boiled in water, is to a great extent soluble, leaving the vas- cular and nervous filaments which per- vade it. The solution, when slowly evaporated, leaves gelatine, which is the principal and characteristic component of the cutis. The skins of animals con- sist of fibrine, gelatine, and small por- tions of albumen and fatty matter. The first two form, as it were, the basis or net-work of the whole tissue, a portion 62 COMPOSITION OF of which, if boiled with water, yields its gelatine, while the fibrine remains. The epidermis of the skin does not com- bine with tannin. The properties of these substances, which j)lay such an important part in tanning, are as fol- lows : Fibrine is one of the immediate and most abundant principles in animals. It exists in the chyle and blood, and is the basis of muscle ; it is a white, taste- less, inodorous solid, heavier than water, soft, slightly elastic, and without action upon litmus. Fibrine loses four fifths of its weight by drying, and becomes yel- lowish, hard, and brittle, but regains much of its original appearance by soak- ing in water. It is insoluble in cold water, and hardens without dissolving in hot water, but is modified in its com- position and properties. When left in contact with cold water for several days, decomposition, accompanied by a cheesey THE SKIN. 63 appearance, ensues. Dilute sulphuric acid shrivels flesh fibrine, and ultimately combines with it, forming a jelly soluble in water. Dry fibrine is changed by strong acid into a yellow, gelatinous mass, without being dissolved. If the acid be very dilute, the fibrine swells and becomes gelatinous. Concentrated acetic acid rapidly gelatinizes fibrine and renders it soluble in hot water. Tannin precipitates it from both its acid and alkaline solutions, and, when fresh fibrine is immersed in a solution of tan- nin, it becomes, on drying, tough, hard, and imputrescible. Gluten is the prin- cipal component of glue, and prepared in a pure state by soaking the latter repeatedly in quantities of fresh water until all soluble matters are removed, and by then boiling and straining the residue. Gelatine is colorless, or yellow- ish, transparent, tasteless, and inodorous. 64 COMPOSITION OF It does not lose its transparency by dry- ing, but becomes hard, brittle, and horny. It softens and swells, and very slightly dissolves in cold water, but is very soluble in hot water, from which alcohol precipitates it. Repeated and successive boiling and cooling of its aqueous solution impairs its gelatinizing property. The characteristic property of gelatine is that of combining with tannin and forming a grayish, glutinous, elastic compound, which, upon drying, becomes unalterable and imputrescible in water, and forms the basis of leather. The mutual affinity of these two sub- stances is so strong that the latter will precipitate the former from a solution containing as little as one part in five thousand parts of water. Gelatine does not exist exactly as such in skins, and therefore leather, (a compound of gela- tinous tissue and tannin,) though very THE SKIN. 65 analogous to, is not strictly identical with, this elastic precipitate of tanno- gelatine, which is slightly soluble in water, and becomes brittle on drying. Mulder, who has examined the sub- ject, says there are two definite com- pounds of tannin with gelatine. For example, when a solution of pure gela- tine is mixed with one containing a great excess of tannin, the resulting precip- itate, which is white and curdy, and becomes reddish-brown, hard, and brit- tle on drying, consists of one equivalent of tannic acid and one of gelatine. This is the neutral compound. If, however, the tannin be not added in excess, then the compound will contain three equiva- lents of gelatine and two of tannic acid. Earthy and metallic salts, throw down double compounds, one with acid and another with metallic oxide, the latter of which is wholly insoluble while the 66 COMPOSITION OF THE SKIN. former is not entirely so. Tannin pre- cipitates albuminous solutions, but the resulting compound is not softened by heat, like the tanno-gelatine. Tannic acid combines with animal gelatine, forming an insoluble curdy precipitate. A piece of prepared skin introduced into a solution of tannic acid absorbs the acid and is converted into leather. A hide is composed of gluten. Leather and gluten are two very dif- ferent and distinct substances. Leather is formed by a chemical action. The affinity of tannin and gluten is very great, and by the combination of these two substances we produce leather. This apparently compact mass of gluten, called green hide, is composed of mil- lions of minute cellular fibres, inter- woven and running in every conceivable direction, forming a strong network. CHAPTER IV. WASHING AND SOAKING THE HIDES. In order to prepare the raw hides for the action of the tanning materials, it is necessary to subject them to several pre- liminary operations. These consist in washing and soaking, liming or unhair- Hide Mill or Fulling Stocks, and Washing Machine. — These machines are employed for the purpose of softening and washing the filthy matter from the hides, and thus, by bringing them as nearly as possible to the fresh state of the skins when first taken from the carcass, to facilitate the after process of depilation and tanning. The hides, with the hair on, are first soaked in cold water for twenty- four hours, or longer if necessary, and are then subjected to the action of the hide mill for an hour, which time is generally sufficient to render them pliable. Eight or 70 WASHING AND SOAKING ing, and bating. Washing and soaking the hides is the first operation they must undergo, and it is therefore a great con- venience to have the tannery located upon or near to a stream or running spring, with an abundance of water. The skins are taken in a green, dry, or salted state. The green hides are those from recently slaughtered animals. They are placed in the pool of water and left to soak for half a day, or longer if necessary, for the removal of blood and adhering dirt. If the skins are not very dirty, an hour is sufficient. If it should be necessary to soak them for a twelve skins, according to their size and thickness, are generally put in the machine at once. A small stream of clean water is allowed to run into the apparatus upon the hides ; and the washings, or dirty, filthy matter contained in them, is allowed to drain off at the bottom of the ma- chine. This method of preparing the skins for the liming and tanning processes dispenses with the laborious mani- pulations to which they are commouly subjected, and preserves their quality — not injured as they were in the old way by the hands of the workmeD. It also presents THE HIDES. 71 longer time, they must be handled or moved about at frequent intervals. Dry hides necessarily require a longer soak- ing, and, to expedite the operation, it is necessary to remove them from the water and subject them to the fulling stocks or mill frequently. If there is no hide mill in the tannery, they must be stretched upon the wooden horse and scraped downwards with a fleshing knife. The fleshing should be repeated once or twice. The washing and scraping must be continued until all the slimy and other animal matters which are prone to putrefaction are removed. No definite the additional advantage of not requiring a long exposure to the action of lime, which is so apt to injure their tissue. After the hides remain a sufficient length of time in the lime, the hair is removed by the workmen, and then sub- jected to the washing machine for the purpose of washing out the lime, which is accomplished in a very short space of time. The skins are then taken to the wooden horse and fleshed by the workmen. They are then placed in the hide mill and beaten in the same manner as before for an hour or so, washed and rinsed in a pool of clean water, 6* 72 WASHING AND SOAKING length of time can be prescribed for the soaking of the skins ; they are to re- main in the water until they have become supple, and the intelligence of the workman must determine when this point is attained. If this work is done by the aid of a fulling, or hide mill, as it is termed, it can be accomplished in one-tenth of both time and labor. If the soaking should be prolonged, the hides will acquire a tendency to putrefy. When the skins have been all soaked and washed as above directed, and are sufficiently supple, they are returned to and left in the water for a short time. and then placed upon a truck car and conveyed to the tan pits, and there deposited in a weak solution of tannin liquor. A description of this machine, for the fulling of both small and large skins, is represented on the left end of the engraving in front of this chapter, giving an angle elevation. The trough in which the skins are placed is six feet long, three wide, and two deep in the clear, with a concave bottom. The end presents a quarter circle, against which the hides are beaten. The mallets or ham- mers are two and a half feet long on the under side, and THE HIDES. IS (five or six hours.) Some attention must always be given to the nature of the water, the size of the hides, and tem- perature of the atmosphere. It must be remembered that a too long contin- ued soaking in the same water exposes the skins to the danger of putrefaction ; and the rapidity of this decomposition is proportional to the amount of filthy, foreign matter contained in the water. If the hides are subjected to the fulling stocks, or hide mill, as it is termed, and worked for a short time with judicious care, and having a small stream of clean soft water running in at one and a half on the top side, one and a half feet deep, and one and a half thick, with grooved cast-iron plates fastened to each end of the mallets, supported by Wo upright levers ten feet long, the lower end mortised in the center of the hammers, and fastened at the top of the frame by a bolt of iron and wedges, so as to make the hammers perform their work correctly and prevent them from swaying out of place. The whole frame and size of the machine is twelve feet long, four feet wide, and ten feet high. The hide mill can be driven by water or steam 74 WASHING AND SOAKING one end of the mill on the skins, while the dirty, filthy matter contained in them is washed out at the other end, skins thus treated can be softened and washed out completely in a very short time. This operation of treating the hides is represented by a wood engrav- ing in front of this chapter. By this method, one man can cleanse a thousand hides in the short space of twelve hours. The hides which have been well salted, but not dried, can be cleansed in a very short time in the same way as aforesaid. These manipulations are ne- cessary not only for removing salt and power. There are two pitments — the end of one being attached to the upright levers, about three feet from the bottom, and the other end attached to a cast-iron crank, each arm of the crank being ten inches in length, the two cranks forming a circle of about twenty inches in diam- eter, giving the mallets about a thirty-inch stroke upon the hides, driven at the rate of about eighty or one hun- dred strokes to the minute. A band or cog-wheel is attached to one end of the shaft when driven by power. THE HIDES. dirt, but also for rendering them soft and supple. When they are taken from the water for the last time, the rinsing must be vigorous and thorough. Some manufacturers contend that the quality of the leather is improved in proportion to the duration of the time of soaking the skin. It is still undenia- ble that, when it exceeds a certain time, the skin acquires a tendency to decompo- sition, and the quality of the leather is thus impaired. It is a mooted point whether the nature of the water used for soaking has any influence upon the quality of the leather. From a Washing Machine. — This machine is represented on the right end of the engraving. Its form and size are in the shape of a drum, five feet in diameter and six feet long, closed up at each end, with a trap-door in the front end for the purpose of passing the skins in and out. A pipe is so arranged in the center of the washer as to allow a small stream of clean water to pass in upon the hides, and small holes are made around the edge of the front end to let the dirty water pass out, with plugs to stop the holes 76 WASHING AND SOAKING practical knowledge on this point, we will not take the affirmative side of the question. It is undeniable that the leather known as calf skin, upper,