BRAZING AND 
 SOLDERING 
 
 BV JAMKS r HOHAKT 
 
 IJEINU 
 NTMBEK 
 
 SKKIF.S (»F 
 
 PRACTICAL 
 PAPERS 
 
 prBLlsHED BY 
 
 
 NKW YORK 
 

 LIBRItRV of CONGRESS 
 
 Two Copits Rtcelved 
 
 SEP 19 1906 
 
 f» Csoyright Efltry 
 CLASJj A XXc, Ne. 
 COPY B/i 
 
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Brazing and 
 Soldering 
 
 1$Y JAMES F. HObAKT 
 T T ▼ 
 
 Brazing. 
 
 Soldering and brazing^ are terms often used to de- 
 note the same operation, that of joining similar or dis- 
 similar metals by means of molten metal which may be 
 of the same kind, but which usually has a lower melting 
 ])oint than the metals to be joined. The term "brazing" 
 is usually employed to denote the soldering with an allov 
 of copper or zinc. "Soldering" is usually taken to repre- 
 sent the joining of surfaces b\- means of an alloy of lead 
 and tin. and "hard-soldering" is understood to mean the 
 l)rocess of uniting as above described with silver and its 
 alloys used as a uniting metal. Hard soldering and braz- 
 ing are practically the same, and are botli done in about 
 the same way. 
 
 The theory of brazing is the melting of a low fusing 
 metal against the metals to be united while they are in 
 such a condition of cleanliness and temperature that the 
 metal welds itself to them. Soft brass, when melted, will 
 weld itself to iron, copper, and a number of other metals, 
 while the temperature of the metals in question is at a con- 
 siderable number of degrees below their several melting 
 I)oints. In fact, only heat enough need by employed to 
 fairly melt the uniting metal and to render it fluid enough 
 to flow, or to "run." as the mechanic aptly states it. 
 
 To braze, also to solder, it is absolutely necessary that 
 the surfaces to be united are clean and free from oxide. 
 
 I 
 
 Copyright 1906, Tho Derry-Cullard On. 
 
Brazing. 
 
 The term "clean"" is used in brazing" and soldering, to 
 mean that there is no "matter in the wrong place" as far 
 as the surfaces to be operated upon are concerned. If the 
 surfaces should be covered with a mixture of plumbago 
 and soap, it is pretty sure that the brass would not adhere, 
 and they could be called "dirty." If. on the contrary, the 
 surfaces were daubed with grease, resin, lime, borax or 
 similar substances, the brazing will not be interfered with ; 
 hence, it is better to say that surfaces to be brazed or 
 soldered, should be made bright and free from oxide, 
 finger marks, and all other matter except the proper flux 
 to prevent oxidization of the surfaces when heated. This, 
 and this alone, is the purpose of all the fluxes used either 
 in soldering, brazing or welding. The flux prevents ox- 
 idization from contact of the hot metal with the air, or 
 with the gases from the fuel used in heating. 
 
 Aside from the proper cleaning and fluxing of metals 
 to be brazed or soldered, it is necessary that they be fitted 
 together as closely as possible. It may seem like a par- 
 adox, but is the truth never the less, that when surfaces 
 are united b}' brazing, the union is stronger the less brass 
 there is between the surfaces. That is : The closer the fit- 
 ting of the parts, the stronger will the braze be after com- 
 pletion. It is imnecessary to "leave space for the brass," 
 in fitting for a brazed joint. The penetrating power of 
 melted brass may be demonstrated by drilling a hole in a 
 piece of iron or steel. Drive a plug in the drilled hole, and 
 force it in as tightly as possible, then rivet the ends of the 
 plug and proceed to braze around one end of it, when it 
 will be found upon test, that no matter how tightly the 
 plug may have been driven in, the melted brass has found 
 its way through the plate beside and around the riveted 
 plug, and that it has brazed both ends of the plug and its 
 
Brazinj 
 
 entire length as well. Therefore, fit tight, for hrazing, 
 and trust the li(|ui<l brass to find its wav through the 
 entire joint without fail. 
 
 Borax is the fiux usually employed for all kinds of 
 brazing, l-'or commercial work on a large scale, boracic 
 acid is used as it is cheaper than borax, being purchased 
 in a granular form, in bulk, by the keg or barrel. For 
 the tiniting metal, some alloy of copper and zinc is uni- 
 versally employed. When other substances, such as silver 
 is used, the operation becomes known as "hard soldering." 
 as described elsewhere. 
 
 The particular alloy used for brazing, is called "spel- 
 ter,"' and consists of equal parts of copper and zinc. For 
 dififerent operations it is necessary to use either a harder 
 or softer alloy, hence the proportions of metals vary in the 
 alloy according to the following table : 
 
 Brazing Alloys, Tin. i Copper. 
 
 Zinc. jAntimony 
 
 Hardest, 
 Hard (spelter) 
 Soft, 
 Softest, 
 
 o ! 3 
 
 I 
 
 1 4 
 
 2 i O 
 
 I O 
 I ■ O 
 
 3 o 
 
 O I 
 
 In a number of dictionaries, the projjer metal for 
 brazing is given as "Fine lirass. one part : Zinc, one ])art." 
 This means that the copper in the brass receives another 
 portion of zinc, thus making the alloy softer and lowering 
 the melting point. 
 
 In commercial brazing, it is frequently profitable to 
 mix the spelter with the proper proportion of boracic acid 
 as found by experiment to be necessary. Then, the mix- 
 ture is placed over or tipon the parts to be brazed, and 
 subjected to heat sufficient to melt the brass. As soon as 
 the brass is seen to flow, "run," the workman calls it, the 
 
Brazing. 
 
 article is removed from the fire and the surface — if it will 
 allow^is rubbed or scraped with a piece of metal or with 
 a scratch brush to remove the flux and a portion of the 
 superfluous brass. In many cases the scraping can not be 
 permitted owing" to the nature of the work, but whenever 
 possible, it should be done as the flux comes off much 
 easier when hot than after it gets cold. 
 
 The manner of applying the spelter and borax also 
 differs with the work to be done.. When a plain ring is to 
 be brazed, it is sufficient to hang the ring on the end of a 
 wire or a rod of iron and place a bit of spelter and borax 
 inside the ring which has been placed so that the part 
 to be brazed is downward. Usually the spelter and borax 
 can be deposited in some angle of the work, or, upon 
 some flat surface which will keep it in place during the 
 heating operation. Sometimes, however, this is impos- 
 sible, as in brazing a wire. In such cases, select a bit of 
 spelter which is long enough to bend up U-shaped so it 
 could be hung over the wire. The borax can readily be 
 made to adhere by warming the wire. 
 
 It is best to heat rather slowly, in order that the joint 
 may be brought to a dull red heat without burning any 
 portion, or without any ])art remaining too cold. When 
 the heat is forced so that one portion of the metal is hot 
 enough to melt the spelter that happens to be on it, while 
 another part of the joint is below the melting part of 
 spelter, there is little possibility of securing a perfect 
 joint. Heating evenly is absolutely necessary. It must 
 be insisted upon or there will be no good work done in 
 brazing. 
 
 Brazing can be done with any source of heat which 
 will melt the spelter, but a properly arranged gas flame 
 is the best that can be provided. The writer has more 
 
 4 
 
Brazing. 
 
 than once done work in an excellent manner in a ])ile of 
 coals in an oi)en fireplace with the hand-hellows as a 
 sonrce of air pressnre. Indeed, upon one occasion, in a 
 hunter's camp, a hatchet, split throuj^h the poll to the 
 very eye. was successfully hrazed with a bit of soft brass 
 wire used for snaring' fish. The fiux was a bit of borax 
 from the medicine chest, and the brass melting fire was a 
 kettle full of coals set just inside the camp door and 
 banked with wet clay to approximate a smith's forge. The 
 necessary blast was supplied by a cone of birch bark, the 
 large end of which was daubed with clay tightly into a 
 hole in the wall of the cam]). The small end of the cone 
 led into a little clay passage which conducted the wind 
 pressure into the bed of coals. No better working outfit 
 could be desired for the limited work to be done. 
 
 When a smith's forge is to be used for brazing, use 
 a charcoal fire, if possible. If bituminous coal must be 
 used, coke enough of it to do the work, as the sulphur in 
 the soft coal is not conducive to good brazing any more 
 than it is to good welding, although a fair job of brazing 
 may be done in an ordinary green coal fire by letting the 
 coal remain without stirring while the brazing is being 
 done. 
 
 If the work permits of being re-idily handled, make a 
 sort of pit or crater in the pile of coal on the forge, and 
 blew a few minutes until all the visible .smoke and gas has 
 ceased. Then lower the work carefully into the crater 
 and blow very lightly, taking care that the spelter is in. 
 jilace and that it is not crowded away by the melting of the 
 borax. Heat slowly and evenly, allowing the fire to lie 
 without blast for short intervals. This permits the work 
 to "soak" in the heat, as it is called by the workmen, re- 
 sulting in verv even heating of the work. 
 
Brazing. 
 
 The workman should have at hand a small pointed 
 rod or wire^ with which to poke into place any bit of 
 spelter which may shift its position and at the instant of 
 melting", the spelter may be made to flow quickly and in 
 the direction desired, by pressing the bits of spelter, one 
 at a time, against the hot surface of the work. A row or 
 group of spelter granules seem a good deal like sheep. 
 Let one start to run, and all the others quickly follow. A 
 bit of spelter forced against the hot metal receives its heat 
 much quicker than when lying loose, and, as soon as one 
 particle melts, it flows around the others, permitting them 
 to receive heat and melt very quickly, hence the seeming 
 following in the leadership of the first granule to melt. 
 The work can be brazed at a considerable lower heat if a 
 little care is taken to start the spelter a-flowing, as above 
 noted. 
 
 In brazing in the smith's forge, it is well to hold the 
 work "high up," that is, do not let it rest on the coal, but 
 keep it suspended between the banks of incandescent fuel 
 so that heat must reach all parts by radiation instead of a 
 part by convection, as would be the case were the work 
 to rest directly against the hot coals. When large work is 
 to be handled, of course the above will not apply, and 
 direct contact with the coal of the part to be brazed must 
 be prevented by the work being supported at other places, 
 leaving the working portion free and clear. 
 
 When considerable brazing is to be done, build a 
 special furnace for that work alone, and, if possible, do 
 the heating with gas. A blast of air will be necessary but 
 a very small blower, similar to that used for a portable 
 forge, will do all that is required. The diagram contained 
 in Fig. i, shows plainly the construction of a small home- 
 made furnace for brazing. This furnace may be built up 
 
 6 
 
 I 
 
Brazing. 
 
 Brick Wall 
 
 t Finj Proof Brick 
 
 O 
 
 Iron 
 Plate 
 
 Wooden Bench 
 
 ^ 
 
 Gas 
 
 tn 
 
 ^ 
 
 Brick Wall 
 
 Gas 
 
 Air 
 
 Brick Wa I 
 
 .4§aQ 
 
 Air 
 
 rnej!rMy- Co//arci Co, '^/ 
 
 "B? 
 
 
 
 Fig. I. Home made brazing furnace. 
 7 
 
Brazing. 
 
 on a bench with loose bricks, or it may be constructed in a 
 more permanent manner, using- an iron sheh with fire brick 
 hning; instead of loose bricks. 
 
 For bench use. there is an insulating- laver of bricks 
 laid upon the wood, then an iron plate and then the brick 
 walls of the furnace are laid up. It is only necessary that 
 the bricks are sufficient to hold the flame around the work 
 to be brazed. There is a radiation or reflection of heat 
 from a hot incandescent surface of brick or other material, 
 like charcoal or carbon, which greatly aids in heating the 
 object to be brazed. In fact, it is often impossible to 
 braze certain work with the furnace at hand, until some- 
 thing- has been placed around the work to keep the heat 
 where it is needed — hence the use of the confined space in 
 a brazing- furnace, instead of letting the flame play directly 
 against the work, in the open. 
 
 In Fig. r. the arrangement of the gas and air pipes is 
 shown. It is necessary that the air should be delivered 
 inside of the jet of gas. as the air thus supplied inside the 
 gas. together with the supply of air outside the jet. enables 
 a much better and hotter flame to be maintained than 
 when the air is delivered wholly around the gas instead of 
 inside it. In the sketch, the two jets are shown con- 
 trolled b}' a single valve, each for the air and the gas. 
 Should there be trouble in obtaining the best results 
 with either burner, it can be cured by putting a valve in 
 each of the four pipes leading to the burners. Then it 
 will be possible to adjust separately, the gas and air supply 
 to each burner. 
 
 The entire piping may be made up of standard fit- 
 tings, as shown by Fig. i, or special castings and forgings 
 niay be provided, as desired. The size of the furnace may 
 be made sufiicient to take in the usual work to be brazed. 
 
Brazinf 
 
 vcloped in the g-asoline flame to make a considerable braze. 
 All that is necessary, is to put the heat just where it is 
 needed, and to Imld it there. This is best done ])\- l)uild- 
 ino- around the work with charcoal which becomes incan- 
 descent from the heat of the i^asoline tlanie. and also sets 
 up a heatini^' scheme from its own combustion. 
 
 If the article to be brazed, be a very small one, it can 
 be placed bodily in a hole scooped in a bit of charcoal, as 
 
 Fig. 3. Brazing in charcoal block. 
 
 shown by Fig;. 3. Here is shown the brazing' of a link in 
 a small chain. The broken link is carefully wedg^ed into 
 the hole in the charcoal, and bits of coal may be packed 
 around the link if the latter be comparatively large. The 
 place where the link is to be brazed, is indicated at a. and 
 the heat is applied from the torch b, which, of course, is 
 applied at the most convenient angle. 
 
 Another very convenient method of applying" char- 
 coal in the brazing operation, is shown by Fig. 4. Here, 
 the work is held between two pieces of hard charcoal 
 
Brazing. 
 
 ing the operation. Thus : Free acid causes the joint to 
 "rust out" — something which is fatal to good or lasting 
 work. 
 
 The apparatus described above is applicable for braz- 
 
 
 \. 
 
 T/re ^frry Cc//ajU Cc 4/ 
 
 Fig. 2. Gasoline torch. 
 
 ing heavy work. For light brazing, a simple gasoline 
 torch may be used, as shown by Fig. 2. This appliance 
 gives a very strong flame, but if it be directed upon a piece 
 of iron for an entire day, there would not be sufficient heat 
 to make jnuch of a piece of iron red-hot, to say nothing of 
 melting the spelter. However, there is heat enough de- 
 
Brazing. 
 
 bearing- in mind that the smaller the furnace, the less gas 
 will be required, and the more limited the work that can 
 be done. On the other hand, while the large furnace 
 costs more than the small one. and more i)i])ing and more 
 gas is required to ])ro])erl\ heat the apparatus, there is 
 always the possibility of filling the large furnace with 
 bricks to fit it to small work and the gas can always be 
 cut down to tit the furnace by means of the valves pro- 
 vided for that purpose. It is in order, then, to provide as 
 large a furnace as there is likelihood of there being work 
 for, then fill up the fire-pot with fire bricks until economy 
 of gas is secured for the particular work to he done. Then, 
 when a large piece of work comes along, take out the 
 bricks, and a large furnace is at hand. The above re- 
 marks, of cotirse. apply to job and re])air work. For 
 special manufacturing where the same work is to be done 
 day after day, there will, of course, be provided special 
 brazing furnaces, fitted for the particular work in hand. 
 
 Cleaning work which is to be brazed, is a most im- 
 portant part of the operation. Usually, filing, scraping or 
 grinding must be resorted to. Cleaning by means of acid 
 is sometimes attempted, but this method sometimes proves 
 very far from being satisfactory. If the surfaces are not 
 thoroughly cleaned of grease by the use of strong alkali, 
 the acid will fail to make the entire stirface bright, and a 
 poor braze will be the result. Again, if the acid be not 
 entirely removed at the time of cleaning the surfaces, then 
 there will be more trouble, for the acid remaining on the. 
 metal will proceed to imite with it into a film of oxide 
 which will not only prevent a perfect braze, but which will 
 probably cause an apparently perfect union to fall apart as 
 the acid left in the metal gets in its work of undermining" 
 the layer of brass which has been ])ut u])on the work dur- 
 
Brazing. 
 
 which are clamped firmly upon the work. If the coal is 
 in the way at first, the flame from the torch will quickly 
 burn away the interfering parts. Two or more pieces of 
 metal can be held firmly for brazing by this method, and 
 the charcoal is also brought very close to the point of 
 heating-. 
 
 Fig. 4. Another way of using charcoal. 
 
 A very excellent device for brazing in a shop where 
 there is considerable work, but no gas to do it with, con- 
 sists of a pair of torch burners attached to a compressed 
 air reservoir of considerable size, as indicated by Fig. 5. 
 The action of this tool is the same as for the torch ; it is 
 pumped up after some gasoline has been put into the air- 
 tank, then the burners are heated and ignited in the usual 
 way, the necessary air pressure being pumped up in the 
 tank by means of an ordinary bicycle pump — if no better 
 way be rigged in the shop. 
 
 Pieces of fire brick, laid on either side of the path of 
 
Brazing. 
 
 the flames will confine them a great deal and if pieces of 
 charcoal be placed inside of the bricks, a very high degree 
 of heat can be obtained. Each torch-head is so arranged 
 that it can be swivelled in any direction. If both torches 
 l)e turned so they point nearly in the same direction, the 
 
 Fig. s. A good brazing device. 
 
 flame from the two torches will form a sort of \', and at 
 the point where the flames come together, is a very hot 
 place. \\\\.\\ a backing of fire brick and charcoal as above 
 described, iron may almost be melted with this appliance. 
 Blow-])ipe brazing is done in exactly the same man- 
 
 13 
 
Brazing. 
 
 ner as described for blow-torch work, only, as large work 
 cannot be attempted as with the torch, simply for the 
 reason that there is not as much heat developed with the 
 small blow-pipe, as with the larger blow-torch. The in- 
 tensity of the flame, however, is as great, and even much 
 greater with the little blow^-pipe than with the largest torch 
 ever made. 
 
 There is an excellent tool for soldering and small 
 brazing, which consists of two tubes, one for illuminating 
 or hydrogen gas, the other tube for compressed air. These 
 tubes are attached to flexible rubber tubes as shown by 
 Fig. 6, one leading to the gas fixture, the other to a source 
 
 Q\ Air _ 
 
 \,,J\^ ~e Deny Cc//ciid Co. A//. 
 
 Fig. 6. A handy blow pipe. 
 
 of compressed air. On small work the air-tube is often 
 held in the mouth and the air supplied by the operator. 
 This blow-pipe may be attached to, and used in connection 
 with the apparatus shown by Fig. 5. For work larger 
 than the double blow-torch can handle, the air-gas blow- 
 pipe will be found a very welcome addition to the source 
 of heat. 
 
 Fig. 7 illustrates two types of blow-pipes ordinarily 
 used. The ball on one of them, is hollow, and is supposed 
 to render the flame a little hotter by catching the moisture 
 
 14 
 
Brazing. 
 
 that may he imparted to the air hy heing- hlown through 
 the hmo-s and mouth. The chief benefit to be derived 
 from the l^aU, is in catching wliatever portions of saliva 
 are I)lown into the tube with the air. The plain blow- 
 l)ipc dispenses with the moisture catching device, and 
 some of the best work is done with this kind of a blow- 
 pipe. 
 
 Fig. 8 shcnvs the manner of blow-pipe application to 
 a small job of brazing. The work is held in a pair of 
 
 Fig. 7. Two small blow pipes. 
 
 tongs or pliers, between pieces of hard charcoal, and the 
 flame of the alcohol lamp is diverged as shown, bv the 
 stream of air from the blow-pipe nozzle. For small braz- 
 ing jobs, also for hard soldering, and for many kinds of 
 soft-soldering, this a])i)aratus is of inestimable value to the 
 mechanic. The lamp is made with a spherical alcohol 
 reservoir, which forms the body of the lamp, and it swings 
 in any direction, in the metal base of the lamp. The flame 
 may, therefore, be put in any position within the capacity 
 of the lamp. 
 
 15 
 
Brazing. 
 
 There has recently developed two new methods of 
 brazing, which for manufacturing purposes, throw in the 
 shade, all methods known before the advent of the two 
 methods in question, one of which is known as "Brazing 
 by Immersion," and consists of dipping the article to 
 
 Fig. 8 How small blow pipe 
 is used 
 
 be brazed, into a bath of melted spelter, on top of which 
 is maintained a body of molten flux, through which the 
 articles to be brazed have first to be passed. Fig. 9 shows 
 one form of crucible or melting pot used to contain the 
 fluid flux and spelter. Common round crucibles are also 
 used, the only necessity being that the containing vessel 
 must be large enough, and the melted metal high enough 
 
 16 
 
Brazing. 
 
 to allow of the parts to be brazed beiiii;- immersed suf- 
 ficiently to bring- tliem entirely beneath the surface of the 
 hot spelter. When the pot shown by Fio-. q is used, larp^e 
 work is to be handled, therefore ])rovisi()n is made for a 
 considerable body of molten metal, hence the long-, flat 
 pot. into which can be di])ped almost any portion of an 
 object which is not absolutely flat and longer than the ]jot. 
 The position of the work in the pot is pretty well 
 shown by Fig. lo. The pot is shown upon a bed of coals, 
 but it would be better if it were heated bv a gas furnace. 
 
 Hig. 9 Special crucible for immersion 
 
 On top of the metal is the body of flux. a. in a molten 
 state. The body of spelter, b, underneath the flux is also 
 kept in a melted state, and when the object to be brazed 
 is first introduced, it is held in the hot flux for a short 
 time before it is put down into the spelter. The object 
 of holding the w'ork a while in the flux is two-fold. Xot 
 only is the object heated. l)ut it is coated with a layer of 
 flux which prevents oxidation. When thoroughly heated 
 and coated with flux, the work is passed down into the 
 spelter, which immediately attaches itself to the work, 
 
Brazing. 
 
 coating every part thereof and insinuating itself into 
 every crack and corner. Between surfaces, capillary at- 
 traction fills all the space and makes a solid filling after 
 the work has cooled. 
 
 In this kind of brazing, parts of the work which must 
 not be adhered to by the spelter, are covered with graphite 
 specially prepared for the purpose in such a manner that 
 the brass will never adhere where the "anti-flux" graphite 
 has been applied. This substance is made up into a paste 
 
 ^r 7^ ne Jerry - Cci/o'd Cn Af/ 
 
 Fig. lo. Using a round crucible. 
 
 and applied with a brush to parts which nuist not be 
 covered by the spelter. The graphite is not afifected by 
 the intense heat of the spelter, and if care is used in paint- 
 ing on the graphite, little or no filing will be necessary 
 after the brazing operation has been finished. 
 
 The proper flux to use with one of these furnaces, is. 
 pretty hard to determine. Some operators use pure borax, 
 and keep it from three-eighths of an inch, to over twO' 
 
 iS 
 
Brazing. 
 
 inches deep on top of the s])eUer, wliile other i)eo|)le who 
 <lo excellent brazini^-. use three parts boracic acid and one 
 ])art borax, while others use exactly the opposite propor- 
 tion of borax and acid. Other people use boracic acid 
 straight, without anything- else with it. Again, some use 
 soda mixed with borax, and, in fact, almost any com- 
 pound which has l)orax in it, seems to work well as a flux 
 in the tli])ping- process of brazing. 
 
 The other method (^f brazing", alluded to above, as 
 being a great advance in the process of brazing, is known 
 as the "Pich Process of Brazing Cast Iron." Cast iron 
 can be brazed by the methods described above, but it is 
 very delicate business, as the iron melts, or at least softens 
 so it will break under the least strain, at a temperature 
 pretty near that at wdiich the spelter melts, so that it is 
 almost impossible to melt the brass without "burning" up 
 the cast iron which is being brazed. 
 
 By the Pich method, the surfaces to be brazed are 
 first brushed over w^ith a varnish made of oxide of copper 
 mixed with any liquid which will allow^ of the copj^er being 
 spread with a brush, and which will afterwards hold the 
 oxide w^hen dry. 
 
 After this application, the brazing is carried out the 
 same as in the ordinary method. The brass or spelter 
 is placed in position, and the flux applied, then a gas-air 
 flame is a])plied as in ordinary brazing. It is assumed 
 that the metallic oxide acts as a reducer on the surface of 
 the cast iron to be brazed. Without the oxide, the carbon 
 above noted acts much like the graphite used in the 
 dipping method of brazing as an anti-flux as described in 
 the description of the dipping process of brazing. It is 
 claimed that the metallic oxide is reduced, removing dur- 
 ing the process of reduction, the carbon on the surface of 
 
 19 
 
Sold 
 
 erinj 
 
 the metal, and. it is claimed, often penetrating- for a 
 distance of three or four inches into the metal itself, 
 thereby making the cast iron stronger at and near the 
 joint, than it was before. Of this matter, the writer has 
 no personal knowledge. The process has been described 
 very fully in a paper by Wilifred Lewis, read before the 
 American Society of Mechanical Engineers. 
 
 It is claimed that both the joint and the casting 
 itself is made from 5% to 10% stronger by the treatment 
 with oxide. This, if correct, is a pointer of value to the 
 iron worker, aside from in the process of brazing, for. if 
 in certain cases, cast iron can have its strength increased 
 10%, it will be of inestimable value to the designing 
 engineer to know thereof. 
 
 Sold 
 
 enn 
 
 g- 
 
 Soldering is much like brazing in some of its details. 
 In fact, some kinds of soldering are done exactly like some 
 kinds of brazing, but other varieties of soldering are 
 totally unlike any brazing operations. Soldering, there- 
 fore, may be taken to mean the uniting of two or more 
 pieces of metal, with fusible alloys of lead and tin. Some- 
 times, lead areas are united by melting their surfaces 
 without the use of solder, the surfaces being fluxed. This 
 form of soldering differs slightly from welding, and is 
 called "burning" by the trade. The method is usually em- 
 ployed in uniting the edges of sheets of lead used in the 
 lining of acid tanks or similar apparatus. 
 
 The particular kind of soldering usually employed 
 is by the use of the so-called "soldering iron," which is 
 really a copper bit placed on the end of an iron handle. 
 
Soldering. 
 
 An alloy of lead and tin is used which readily adheres 
 to the surface of the bit, which must be clean, free from 
 oxide, etc. The operation of coating" a copper liit with 
 solder is known as "tinnin,t;'," and will be described else- 
 where. The theory of soft solderin<:j is : that as the soft 
 metal adheres to. and unites with the surface of the coi)per 
 bit, so will the soft metal, under certain conditions, ad- 
 
 3^ 
 
 -arO 
 
 / fie Detry- Co/Zard Co. /^ 
 Figs. II and 12. Forms of soldering "irons." 
 
 here to, and unite with the surface of the metals to be 
 soldered. In fact, soft soldering, as well as brazing, con- 
 sists of welding together two or more pieces of similar 
 or dissimilar metals by means of another metal of lower 
 melting point. That constitutes soldering : all the rest of 
 the operation, is detail, which may be varied to suit con- 
 ditions. 
 
 The form of copper bit usually employed, is shown by 
 
Sold 
 
 erinj 
 
 Fig. II, herewith. There are also many other shapes in 
 common use, and those represented by a, b, c and d. in 
 Fig. II. are frequently seen. In the latter illustration, a 
 is the "hatchet" bit. used perhaps more frequently than 
 any of the others, except that shown by Fig. ii, which 
 is the tool with which nearly all jobbing and repairing 
 is done. The "hatchet" form of bit is also shown bv b, 
 Fig. 12. and differs only that the handle is swivelled so 
 that the edge of the bit may be turned in any direction 
 as made necessary by the work in hand. This tool is used 
 for long, straight seams, and for heavy work generally. 
 The bit shown at c, is one of the many shapes used for 
 special work. Tools of any shape can be easily made by 
 the workman who simply forges the copper when cold, to 
 the size and shape desired. Copper forges on the anvil 
 pretty well and if the precaution be taken to anneal the 
 bit frequently, almost any desired shape can be made with 
 little if any fihng or cutting — simply by forging alone. 
 The annealing operation for copper, consists of heating to 
 a dull red heat, and then quenching in water — the reverse 
 of the steel hardening operation. 
 
 The shape shown by C, is a ver\- useful tool where 
 soldering has to be done in corners or small places. It is 
 of the same shape as form A, except that it is smaller, and 
 round in section, instead of "hex." The handle is screwed 
 into the bit, and three holes are drilled and tapped so that 
 the handle can be put in as shown, or with the flat end 
 either "hatchet," or "cross," as the work to be done may 
 demand. The swivel hatchet bit, B. is one of the most 
 useful tools. It ranks next to form A. Fitted with the 
 two tools. Fig. II, and B, Fig. 12, all kinds of large 
 work can be done. With the addition of C, the stock is 
 complete. 
 
Soldering. 
 
 Even inoro important than the shape of the bits, is 
 their concHtion. A man can do good work with any 
 "plug" of a tool, as long as it is cleaned and well tinned. 
 It is in this, that the life of the tool lies. With a poorly 
 tinned tool, it is impossible to do good soldering. It is 
 then, of the greatest importance that the user of soldering 
 tools knows how to put them in shape and how to keep 
 them there. To begin with, a bit can never remain in 
 
 Fig. 13, Brick "jig" for tinning copper. 
 
 good condition if it is over-heated. Once a bit is made 
 red-hot, its usefulness is gone until it has been re-tinned. 
 Heating in a soft coal fire also causes the tinning to vanish 
 very quickly. 
 
 In order to learn how best to keep a bit well tinned,, 
 it is necessary to learn how to tin the bit the first time. 
 Renewing the tinning is practically the same as the first 
 tinning. To tin a copper, see that it is of the shape re- 
 quired, then brighten the sides and edges of the point 
 
 23 
 
 Ot^ 
 
Soldering. 
 
 with a file. Heat the hit until it is barely hot enough to 
 melt a little metal oft' a stick of solder when pressed 
 against a bar of that alloy. If the bit is too hot, the tin 
 cannot be made to adhere to it. Cool the bit on a wet 
 rag-, if it should be heated too hot. but, the sooner the 
 beginner learns to "never let the coppers get too hot," the 
 sooner he will be an expert at soldering. 
 
 Perhaps the best "jig" for tinning coppers, is a brick 
 with the top cut out with a cold chisel, something as 
 shown by Fig. 13. The softer the brick, the better "jig" 
 it will make. A very hard burned brick will not let the 
 copper rub off little bits, while a soft, ])ale yellow brick 
 
 Fig. 14 A handy scraper. 
 
 rubs off like sand and the material thus removed, unites 
 with the resin used in the operation, and helps to brighten 
 the surface of the copper. 
 
 The cavity in the top surface of the brick may be 
 made about an eighth of an inch deep, and some resin 
 melted into it. Some pieces of salammoniac, scattered in 
 with the resin, improves the working of the "jig" im- 
 mensely. In fact, that substance is the natural flux for 
 copper, and that metal may be soldered with no other 
 flux except a little of the muriate of ammonia as the 
 chemical in question is technically known. Some solder 
 is melted into the cavity on top of the brick, and there 
 mingles with the other material. The heated copper 
 
 24 
 
Soldering. 
 
 should be rubbed baek and forth on the Ijrick. amid the 
 niehed solder and Hux. The ])articles of ])rick serve to 
 brighten the copper so that the solder readily adheres, 
 covering" the entire point of the bit. as far back as it may 
 have been brightened, or rulibed against the surface of 
 the brick. 
 
 In using" the copper give it a rub or two on the brick 
 just before replacing" to hcxt. and the co]iper will always 
 keep well tinned. If, at any time, through over-heating 
 or soldering dirt\ surfaces, the tinning" begins to disap- 
 pear, a few rubs on the brick will replace the tinning as 
 good as new. \\ hen several coppers are in use, they are 
 usuallv tinned bv rul)bing two bits together, taking one 
 with either hand, and rubl)ing" them together on the brick. 
 Then, the brick brightens the coppers and the rubbing 
 of the two together, causes the molten metal to adhere 
 verv quicklv. Coppers may be tinned in many other ways. 
 Simply rubbing the bit on the ground, or on the tioor of 
 the shop will brighten the metal, and the tinning may be 
 proceeded with on a bit of tin. with nothing but resin and 
 solder. But the brick "jig" is much the best — and (piick- 
 est. 
 
 Overheating causes the copper to beconie rough and 
 worn in spots. Tt often seems as if an acid had eaten into 
 the copper in one or more places, but overheating is the 
 sole cause of the trouble. Learn to judge cpiickly and 
 correctly the degree of heat in the copper by holding the 
 bit about one inch from the cheek. The radiation of heat 
 is quickly felt, and in a very short time a man can learn 
 in this way, to closely judge the amount of heat in the 
 copper. The right heat has been attained when the solder 
 flows like water when melted with the copjier, on a bit of 
 bright new tin ]date. If the solder can be made to build 
 
Soldering. 
 
 or pile up in the least, the copper is too cold. If color 
 shows on that portion of the copper which is covered with 
 solder, then the bit is too hot. There is quite a range of 
 temperature between the two extremes, and there all the 
 work of soldering should be done. 
 
 Never try to solder when the tool is so cold that the 
 solder will not run freely. Good work cannot be done 
 with the copper in that condition. Heat when the solder 
 shows the least trace of granular formation, and when it 
 begins to "build up" under the copper, from the surface 
 of the metal which is being soldered. If the tool be a trifle 
 too hot, push it along the top of the brick "jig" a few 
 times and the heat will be reduced and the tinning on the 
 copper will be improved by the operation. 
 
 In soldering, the same rules apply regarding cleanli- 
 ness, as in brazing. The surface must be free from dirt, 
 oxide, or any foreign substance which will prevent the 
 adherence of the solder. On old work, the surfaces must 
 be brightened by scraping, filing or rubbing with sand- 
 paper or emery cloth. Scraping is the best, and a useful 
 tool for the purpose is shown by Fig. 14. This scraper 
 may be bought from the same dealer who supplies solder- 
 ing tools and supplies. This tool has a steel blade, which 
 should be hardened and should be ground on the side not 
 shown in the drawing. The corners of this tool are dififer- 
 ent from each other, one being pointed, the others rounded 
 off on different radii. 
 
 Where scraping can not be done to advantage, filing 
 anay be resorted to ; grinding may be done ; emerv cloth 
 used, or the surface scraped bright with the blade of a 
 knife. The scratch-brush may also be used, but the sur- 
 faces must be cleaned of oxide in some manner at any 
 cost, or no good soldering can be done. 
 
 26 
 
Sold 
 
 en 
 
 "g- 
 
 For all small work, the solder should be applied to 
 the copper, instead of direct to the work. Fig". 15, illus- 
 trates the proper method of picking- up solder with the bit. 
 A bar of "half and half" is laid on the bench, one end 
 being raised a trifle by having a bit of wood, a cold 
 chisel, or some other small article placed under it. Touch 
 the hot copper to the bar of solder, and a portion will melt 
 and adhere to the copper. If the tool be held against the 
 
 Fig. 16. Taking solder from bar. 
 
 solder too long, the solder will run down uj)on the bench. 
 Only a very small portion of the metal can be taken up 
 at one time, but the larger the copper, and the tinned 
 portion of it. the more solder can be taken up at a time. 
 Carry the solder thus taken up to the place to be soldered, 
 and. if the surfaces have been properly cleaned and 
 fluxed, the solder will adhere to and run over them like 
 water. 
 
 \\'hen verv large surfaces have to be soldered, as in 
 running' seams in a tin roof, it is necessary to melt the 
 solder on the top of the bit as that tool is moved along the 
 
 27 
 
Soldering. 
 
 seam. When solderino; heavy lead pipe, it is necessary 
 to feed the solder in the same manner, but for all light 
 work, pick up the solder in the manner described above. 
 If the copper will not readily pick uj) the solder, rest as- 
 sured that the tool is not in condition to do good work, 
 and should be sent at once to the tinning brick. 
 
 Heavy soldering can be done to advantage with both 
 the soldering copper and the gasoline torch shown by 
 Fig. 2 in the brazing chapter. For jobbing, or for small 
 work, the copper may easily be heated by one of these 
 convenient sources of heat. All that is necessary is to 
 place the tool so that the flame will strike against the 
 copper bit. which may be merely balanced on top of the 
 torch, upon lugs made for that purpose on the torches 
 of the most recent make. For heavy soldering ( occasional 
 work), especiallv where large pieces are to be united, 
 place the torch, with the copper on top, so that the flame 
 will impringe upon the work after it has passed the cop- 
 per bit. Then, after the copper has been sufficiently heat- 
 ed, the flame may be forced directly against the work to 
 be soldered, the torch being held in one hand, the coj^per 
 in the other, and the two worked in conjunction. This 
 method permits of a pretty heavy job being done with a 
 light soldering bit. Heat can be put into the copper as 
 well as into the work, while the soldering operation is 
 being carried on. 
 
 Again, the work may be heated in the gasoline flame, 
 then tinned with the copper. The entire surfaces to be 
 covered with solder being given a perfect coating of 
 solder, the requisite flux and the hot tinned copper being 
 used for this purpose. After this, the parts of the work 
 may be laid together, heated in the gas flame until the 
 tinning solder melts, then pressed together and the neces- 
 
 28 
 
Soldering. 
 
 sary additions of solder, smootliinc;' and otherwise ])lacing 
 the solder, hein.q" done with the copper. 
 
 Another method of solderin.q" which is fre(|uentl\ 
 used in the machine shop, is known as "sweating'.'" i'er- 
 haps two pieces of hrass ha\e to l)e fastened together so as 
 to leave an invisible joint. 1die workman will fit the pieces 
 as perfectly as ])ossil)le. then he will wet the j^arts to come 
 in c<intact. with soldering tlnid. and place the ])arts to- 
 gether with a sheet of tin-foil between. The pieces are 
 then pressed together and wired or otherwise held fast 
 and heated until the tin-foil melts. After being allowed 
 to cool, the pieces will be found fastened together so 
 nicely that the joint is imperceptible to the eye if good 
 fitting has been done. 
 
 Another process, also sometimes called "sw'eating.'" 
 consists of tinning separately the parts to be united, after 
 which they are placed in contact with each other and 
 firmly held in position while being heated, .\ftcr fusion 
 of the solder, the object has its several pieces again 
 brought as closely into contact as possible, either by tap- 
 ping with a hammer, squeezing in a vise, by pressing to- 
 gether bv hand, or by any means possible. Then, the 
 work is left to cool, the superfluous solder removed, and 
 a perfect solder joint is the result provided the manipula- 
 tions have all been properly carried out. The method 
 last described is commonly used in the machine shop for 
 uniting for use during turning or planing ])rocesses, the 
 parts of a ring or bushing which must be in two or more 
 pieces after completion. The several parts are fitted to- 
 gether, sweated into a continuous ring and then machined, 
 after wdiich they are heated, whereupon the>- fall a]iart 
 as soon as the solder melts. The solder is removed, by 
 wiping the hot surfaces with a piece of soft cloth and then 
 
 29 
 
Soldering. 
 
 taking off the balance of the solder which is in the shape 
 of a thin film, with a scraper. — Not the tool shown by 
 Fig. 14, but a flat scraper as used by machinists on flat 
 work where great truth of surface is required. 
 
 There are several special operations in soldering, 
 where special work has to be done, and, in ever}- instance, 
 the specials are only adaptations of the ordinary process 
 of soldering, to suit the particular work to be done. For 
 instance : When a number of small or very small parts 
 have to be soldered together in s-uch a manner that the 
 soldering of one would cause the others to become un- 
 soldered, it is customary to hold each and every piece by 
 means of clips and screws, or by means of clamps or 
 weights. For some kinds of work, something very differ- 
 ent may be required to hold all the pieces, and, in some 
 cases, it is necessary to put the parts in place one by one, 
 and hold them there by means of calcined plaster, applied 
 in the shape of cream. Each part is held in position until 
 the plaster sets, after which they each will stay in place 
 vmtil the solder can be applied. 
 
 For small work, which has to be thus held in place, 
 the soldering copper is frequently too large to get into the 
 small corners between the several parts, and a good deal 
 of trouble is frequently met with in getting the solder 
 properly distributed. For work of this kind, the blow- 
 pipe is the most desirable tool. The blow-torch may be 
 substituted for the blow-pipe if desired, but the former 
 tool enables the heat to be localized better than with the 
 torch. In either case, apply the heat until the solder 
 flows readily, then with a short bit of copper wire, fastened 
 to the end of an iron vvire handle, the solder may readily 
 be made to flow where it is needed. 
 
 If the bit of thick copper wire on the end of an iron 
 30 
 
Solderin 
 
 J-^• 
 
 wire handle is not at liand. a piece of copper wire may he 
 used with i^dod results to ])oke the solder aroiuid into the 
 joints, hut the troul)le with the soHd copper wire is that 
 cop])er is a much hetter conductor of heat than the iron 
 and the solid copper wire used as a small soldering bit, 
 speedily becomes hot along its entire length and in so- 
 doing takes so nuich heat away from the business end of 
 the tool that it will not continue to melt the solder. 
 
 The value of a soldering job frequently depends upon 
 the use of a proper soldering fluid, and the stability of 
 the soldered joint often depends largely thereupon. \Vhen 
 acid is used there is little possibility that the joint will 
 be permanent, luiless means are taken for removing the 
 excess of acid. How^ever, this matter is much of a puz- 
 zle to some very advanced engineers, some acid soldered 
 joints lasting apparently as long as those soldered with- 
 out the use of acid, other acid soldered joints coming to 
 pieces very quickly after their making. The electrical 
 people have solved the question of the durability of the 
 acid soldering joint by prohibiting its use entirely in elec- 
 trical work. 
 
 One of the most handy soldering solutions consists 
 of common resin dissolved in alcohol. This preparation 
 makes a sort of varnish, which, when a])])lied to a siu'- 
 face, soon parts with its alcohol, leaving a thin tilm of 
 resin exactly where it will do the most good in soldering. 
 Some good soldering solutions have borax dissolved in 
 them ; others have some salammoniac ( muriate of am- 
 monia) among their ingredients. This substance is the 
 natural Hux for copper, and, owing to the presence of 
 that metal in brass, it works pretty well in lluxing that 
 alloy for soldering. 
 
 The most common method of a|)pl\ing resin in sol- 
 
 31 
 
Soldering. 
 
 dering is to powder that material and apply it to the 
 work by means of a swab consisting of a small tin or 
 wooden handle to which a tuft of cotton or a few folds 
 of cloth have been fastened. An ordinary cotTee mill is 
 a desirable machine for pulverizing resin, also for borax. 
 In the dry flux salammoniac may be ground up with the 
 resin in almost any proportion from one of salammoniac 
 to one hundred of resin up. In the liquid solution, the 
 proportions may be the same, provided a liquid can be 
 found which will carry both the resin and the salam- 
 moniac. A solution of salammoniac and borax, or boracic 
 acid, is much valued by some mechanics as a soldering 
 fluid. 
 
 Several ancient receipts for soldering fluids or acids 
 call for "killed spirits of salt." Chemically, the solution 
 is one of muriate of zinc. It may be readily prepared, as 
 follows: Place three parts of hydrochloric (muriatic) 
 acid and one part water in a lead, glass or wooden ves- 
 sel, then add pieces of zinc as long as any action of the 
 acid upon the zinc, can be seen. Some zinc remaining 
 undissolved in the solution after standing for several 
 hours is proof that no more zinc will be dissolved by the 
 acid. Before declaring the operation completed, the fol- 
 lowing test should be made to determine that there is suf- 
 ficient water in the solution, without which the maximum 
 quantity of zinc will not be dissolved by the acid. To 
 make this test, remove a few drops of the solution to a 
 clean vessel and place a bit of clean zinc in the liquid. 
 Add water drop b}' drop, and observe if any action upon 
 the zinc follows the addition of water to the solution. 
 If such action commences, water should be added to the 
 bulk of the solution until further addition does not have 
 efifect upon the zinc. If, however, no action is observed 
 
 32 
 
Soldering. 
 
 in the test solution, the process may be declared finished, 
 and the main sohition should be allowed to settle, after 
 which the clear ])ortion is carefully poured off. llie 
 sediment, consistini^ of zinc oxide and perhaps impurities 
 contained in that metal, is not desirable in a working solu- 
 tion for solderinii^. True, work can be done with dirty 
 soldering acid or other fluid, but better work can be done 
 with clean solutions, as well as surfaces, and tools. 
 
 33 
 
PUBLICATIONS OF 
 
 The Derry-Collard Co, 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 PRACTICAL PAPER SERIES 
 
 TURNING AND BORING TAPERS. 
 Fred H. Colvin. 
 
 A plainly written explanation of a subject that puzzles 
 many a mechanic. This explains the dififerent ways of des- 
 ignating tapers, gives tables, shows how to use the com- 
 pound rest and gives the tapers mostlv used. (25c.) 
 
 DRAFTING OF CAMS. 
 Louis Rouillion. 
 
 The laying out of cams is a serious problem unless you 
 know how to go at it right. This puts vou on the right 
 road for practically any kind of cam you are likely to run 
 up against. And it's plain English, too. (25c.) 
 
 •COMMUTATOR CONSTRUCTION. 
 Wm. Baxter, Jr. 
 
 The business end of a dynamo or motor is the com- 
 mutator, and this is what is apt to give trouble. This shows 
 how they are made, why they get out of whack and what 
 to do to put 'em right again. (2Sc.) 
 
 THREADS AND THREAD CUTTING. 
 Colvin-Stabel. 
 
 This clears up many of the mysteries of thread cutting 
 such as double and triple threads, internal threads, catching 
 threads, use of hobs, etc. Contains a lot of useful hints 
 and several tables. (2Sc.) 
 
 _BRAZING AND SOLDERING. 
 James F. Hobart. 
 
 'A complete course of instruction in all kinds of hard and 
 soft soldering. Shows just what tools to use, how to make 
 them and how to use them. (25c.) 
 
WIRING A HOUSE. 
 Herbert Pratt. 
 
 Shows every step in the wiring of a modern house and 
 e.xplains everything so as to be readily understood. Direc- 
 tions apply equally to a shop. (25c.) 
 
 :machine shop arithmetic. 
 
 Colvin-Cheney. 
 
 Most popular book for shop men. Shows how all shop 
 problems are worked out and "why." Includes change 
 gears for cutting any threads; drills, taps, shink and force 
 fits; metric system of measurements and threads. Used by 
 all classes of mechanics and for instruction by Y. M. C. A. 
 and other schools. Fourth edition. (5cc.) 
 
 BEVEL GEAR TABLES. 
 D. Ag. Engstrom. 
 
 No one who has to do with bevel gears in any way should 
 be without this book. The designer and draftsman will find 
 it a great convenience, while to the machinist who turns up 
 the blanks or cuts the teeth, it is invaluable, as all needed 
 dimensions are given and no fancy figuring need be done. 
 ($1.00.) 
 
 PRACTICAL PERSPECTIVE. 
 Richards-Colvin. 
 
 Shows just how to make all kinds of mechanical drawings 
 in the only practical perspective isometric. Makes every- 
 thing plain so that any mechanic can understand a sketch 
 or drawing in this way. Saves time in the drawing room 
 and mistakes in the shops. Contains practical examples of 
 various classes of work. (50c.) 
 
 CHANGE GEAR DEVICES. 
 Oscar E. Perrigo. 
 
 A book for every designer, draftsman and mechanic who 
 is interested in feed changes for any kind of machines. 
 This shows what has been done and how. Gives plans, 
 patents and all information that you need. Saves hunting 
 through patent records and reinventing old ideas. A 
 standard work of reference. ($1.00.) 
 
HOW TO BUILD AN AUTO. 
 F. C. Mason. 
 
 Gives exact instruction to any mechanic who wishes ta 
 build a modern runabout or touring car on approved lines. 
 Full designs and dimensions are given of motor and car, 
 and many have been built. By a designer and mechanic, 
 and is thoroughly practical in every way. ($r.oo.) 
 
 AMERICAN STEEL WORKER. 
 E. R. Markham. 
 
 The standard work on hardening, tempering and anneal- 
 ing steel of all kinds. A practical book for the machinist, 
 tool maker or superintendent. Shows just how to secure 
 best results in any case that comes along. How to make 
 and use furnaces and case harden ; how to handle high- 
 speed steel and how to temper for all classes of work. 
 Second edition. ($2.50.) 
 
 ENGINEERS ARITHMETIC. 
 Colvin-Cheney. 
 
 A companion to Machine Shop Arithmetic, arranged for 
 the stationary engineer. Shows how to work the problems 
 of the engine room and shows " why." Has steam tables 
 and a lot of other useful information that makes it popular 
 with practical men. (50c.) 
 
 AMERICAN STATIONARY ENGINEERING. 
 W. E. Crane. 
 
 A new book by a well-known author. Begins at the boiler 
 room and takes in the whole power plant. Contains the 
 result of years of practical experience in all sorts of engine 
 rooms and gives exact information that cannot be found 
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 value to those high in the profession. Has a complete ex- 
 amination for a license. ($2.00.) 
 
 SWITCHBOARDS. 
 
 Wm. Baxter, Jr. 
 
 The only book dealing with this important part of elec- 
 trical engineering. Takes up all sizes and kinds from the 
 single dynamo in the engine room to the largest power 
 plant work. Includes divert and alternating currents ; oil 
 
switches for liiyli Icnsion ; arc and incandescent ligliting; 
 railway work, and all the rest, except telephone work. 
 ($1.50.) 
 
 I. INK MOTIONS, VALVES AND VALVE SETTING. 
 Fred H. Colvin. 
 
 A handy little book for the engineer or machinist that 
 clears up the mysteries of valve setting. Shows the dif- 
 ferent valve gears in use. how they work and why. Piston 
 and slide valves of different types are illustrated and ex- 
 plained. A book that every railroad man in the motive 
 power department ought to have. (50c.) 
 
 TRAIN RULES AND DISPATCHING. 
 H. A. Dalby. 
 
 Contains the standard code for both single and double 
 track and explains how trains are handled under all condi- 
 tions. Gives all signals in colors, is illustrated wherever 
 necessary, and the most complete book in print on this im- 
 portant subject. Bound in fine seal flexible leather. 221 
 pages. ($1.50.) 
 
 AMERICAN COMPOUND LOCOMOTIVES. 
 Fred H. Colvin. 
 
 The latest and most complete book on compounds. Shows 
 all types, including the balanced compound which is now 
 being used. Makes everything clear by many illustrations 
 and shows valve setting, breakdowns and repairs. A hand- 
 some book with ten special inserts of locomotives. ($1.50.) 
 
 IHE RAILROAD POCKETBOOK. 
 Fred H. Colvin. 
 
 Different from any book you ever saw. Gives clear and 
 concise information on just the points you are interested in. 
 It's really a pocket encyclopaedia, fully illustrated, and so 
 arranged that you can find just what you want in a second 
 without an index. Whether you are interested in Axles or 
 Acetylene; Compounds or Counter balancing; Rails or 
 Reducing Valves; Tires or Turn-tables, you'll find them in 
 this little book. It's very complete. Flexible cloth cover. 
 250 pages. ($1.00.) (Interleaved with ruled pages for 
 notes, $1.50.) 
 
EMINENT ENGINEERS. 
 Dwight Goddard. 
 
 An intensely interesting account of the achievements of 
 thirty-two of the world's best known engineers. Free from 
 tiresome details and giving just the facts you want to 
 know in an entertaining manner. Portraits are given (many 
 of them rare), and the book is an inspiration for both old 
 and young. ($1.50.) 
 
 ECONOMICS OF MANUAL TRAINING. 
 Prof. Louis Rouillion. 
 
 The only book that gives just the information needed by 
 all interested in manual training, regarding buildings, equip- 
 ment and supplies. Shows exactly what is needed for all 
 grades of the work from the Kindergarten to the High and 
 Normal School. Gives itemized lists of everything needed 
 and tells just what it ought to cost. Also shows where to 
 buy supplies. ($2.00.) 
 
 BOILER CONSTRUCTION. 
 Frank A. Kleinhans. 
 
 The only book showing how locomotive boilers are built 
 in modern shops. Shows all types of boilers used ; gives 
 details of construction ; practical facts, such as life of rivet- 
 ing punches and dies, work done per day, allowance for 
 bending and flanging sheets and other data that means 
 dollars to any railroad man. 421 pages. 334 illustrations. 
 Six folding plates. ($300.) 
 
 CAR CHARTS. 
 
 Shows and names all the parts of three types of cars. 
 Passenger — Box — Gondola. Printed on heavy plate paper 
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 TRACTIVE POWER CHART. 
 
 A chart whereby you can find the tractive power or draw- 
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 exert a given drawbar pull or anything you desire in this 
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TONNAGE CHART. 
 
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 it shows the tonnage any tractive power will haul under 
 varying conditions of road. No calculations arc required. 
 Knowing the drawbar pull and grades and curves you \im\ 
 tonnage that can be hauled. (50c.) 
 
 HORSE POWER CHART. 
 
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 A MODERN BATTLESHIP. 
 
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 ISOMETRIC SKETCHING PAPER. 
 
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SEP 19 »90§ 
 
«14 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 013 972 596 7 
 
 The Derry-Collard Company, 
 
 at 109 Liberty Street, 
 
 New York. 
 
 T ▼ T 
 
 Are publishers of the following good books. 
 T ▼ ▼ 
 
 MACHINE SHOP ARITHMETIC 
 
 Colviu-Cheney. socts. 
 AMERICAN STEEL WORKER. 
 
 E. R. Markham. $2.50. 
 CHANGE GEAR DEVICES. 
 
 O. E. Perrigo. Il.oo. 
 
 AMERICAN COMPOUND LOCOMOTIVES. 
 
 Fred. H. Colvin. $1.50. 
 
 TRAIN RULES AND TRAIN DISPATCHING. 
 
 H. A. Dalby. $1.50. 
 
 BOILER CONSTRUCTION. 
 
 F. B. Kleinhans. $3.00. 
 SWITCHBOARDS. 
 
 Wm. Baxter, Jr. $1.50. 
 
 BEVEL GEAR TABLES. 
 
 D. Ag. Eugstroni. fi 00. 
 
 ENGINEER'S ARITHMETIC. 
 
 Colvin Cheney, sects. 
 
 LINK MOTIONS, VALVES AND VALVE SETriNCi 
 
 Fred. H. Colviu. 5octs. 
 
 THE RAILROAD POCKET BOOK. 
 
 Fred. H. Colvin. I1.50. 
 
 THE ECONOMICS OF MANUAL TRAINING 
 
 Prof. Louis Rouilhon. $2.00. 
 
 AMERICAN STATIONARY ENGINEER. 
 
 W. E. Crane. $2.00. 
 
 EMINENT ENGINEERS. 
 
 Dwight Goddard. 81.50. 
 
 HOW TO BUILD AN AUTO 
 
 F. C. Mason. 00. 
 
 T T T 
 
 PRACTICAL PAPERS. 
 
 Turning and Boring Tapers. 
 
 Drafting of Cams. Commutators. Thread Cutting. 
 
 Wiritig a House. Others under way. 25cts each. 
 
 T T T 
 
 A MODERN BATTLESHIP. 
 
 Shows and names every part. 28x42 inches. 
 
 sects.