Oass. Book 1 \Ai O C-- SOURCES OF THE HISTORY OF OREGON Volume I Parts 3 to 6 inclusive THE CORRESPONDENCE AND JOURNALS OF CAPTAIN NATHANIEL J. WYETH 1831-6 A Record of Two Expeditions for tlie Occupation of the Oregon Country, with flaps, Introduction and Index CONTINUATION OF THK CONTRIBUTIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT OF ECONOMICS AND HISTORY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF OREGON BY THE OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY Edited by F. G. Young, Secretary Oregon Historical Society. PRICE ONE DOLLAR University Press Eugene, Ore. 1899 OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY. H. W. Scott, President, C. B. Bellinger, V^ice- President, L. B. Cox, Treasjci'er, F. G. Young, Secretary, Geo. H. HimeS, Assistant-Secretary , Portland Portland Portland Eugene Portland L^ J J Copyright applied for by the Oregon Historical Society All rights reserved f 1 J ^^^ 5^9 7 L- A tribute to tlie memory of Captain Wyeth by James Russell Lowell, ■ — sent to the Portland (Oregon) High School on the occasion of its having a Lowell evening. Elm WOOD, Cambkidge, Mass. 24th April, 1890. Dear Miss H * =^' * I feel as if I had a kind of birthright in 3^our Portland, for it was a townsman of mine who first led an expedition thither across the plains and tried to establish a settlement there. I well remember his starting sixty years ago, and knew him well in after years. He was a very remarkable person whose conversa- tion I valued highly. A born leader of men, he was fitly called Captain Nathaniel Wyeth as long as he lived. It was the weak- ness of his companions that forced him to let go his hold on that fair possession. I hope he is dulj^ honored in your traditions. * * I pray you to give my greeting with the warmest assurance of good will to both teachers and pupils. We are I am sure heartily at one in our desire to maintain and perpetuate the better tradi- tions of our local and national life, and it is upon our schools that we must rely in great measure for the fulfilment of that desire. Wishing for all of you happ5^ and useful lives — and one includ- es the other I remain Very sincerely your friend J. R. Lowell. ' Editor's Preface In the traditions of New England Nathaniel Jarvis Wyeth is highly honored as the principal founder of the ice industry. The Boston Transcript in its notice of his death, August, 1856, said: "It is not perhaps too much to say that there is not a single tool or machine of real value now employed in the ice harvesting, which was not originally invented by Mr Wyeth. They all look to Fresh Pond as the place of their origin". "As one who laid open a new field of honorable industry" he was held "entitled to the rank of a public benefactor." Among his friends who came under the influence of his strong personality he was regarded as "oneoftheremarkablemenof New England." The tribute to his memory sent to Oregon by Lowell stimulated the search for the record of those wonderful expeditions led by him. Those in quest of it were rewarded not onlj' in finding the manuscripts, nearly complete, but also in getting from the posses- sor of them a gracious response to the request for permission to publish. These sources furnish data for making more adequate and in- structive the history of the occupation of the continent, and through the publication of them the author will receive due recognition for a conspicuous part in a great national movement and for the pos- session of a strong spark of heroic spirit like that whose song is, *^My purpose holds To sail be'^ond the suiiset and the baths Of all the western stars until I die.'" The manuscript is in the possession of Mrs, Man,^ J,, pigh of Taunton, Massachusetts. When sent to be copied for publication it took its third trip westward across the continent, but this time it was not "to be painfully borne by wearisome marches through almost unbroken solitudes for weary months," but now after sixty- three years to be "swiftl}- carried in a few days, to find no longer at the journey's end the wilderness of Nature but the homes of an enlightened and progressive people." The editor owes deepest thanks to Mrs. Fish for being entrust- ed with the honor of publishing this record and for her consent to present it in its integrity. The plan has been to reproduce the original faithfully to the letter. From the conditions under which the record was made some parts are faint and mutilated but it is hoped that de- fects arising from this cause and from shortcomings in editing will not seriously impair the historical value of these documents. Eugene, Oregon, July I, 1899. ERRATA Page 12, " 38. " 49, " 62, " 79, "126, "157, "212, "236. 'circumsnances' ' in line 39 should read "enongh" "Tnesday" "Vadcouver" "Haying" "dot" "fiowers" "Savvages" "contardictory" 44 32 5 4 8 4 6 38 'circumstances" "enough" "Tuesday" ' 'Vancouver' ' "Having" "not" ' 'flowers' ' "Sauvages" 'contradictory" I II III IV V VI VII VIII IX X XI XII XII XIV XV XVI XVII XVIII XIX XX XXI XXII XXIIl XXIV XXV XXVI XXVII XXVIII XXIX XXX XXXI XXXII XXXIII CORRESPONDENCE Persons addressed Kelley, Hall J. Wyeth, Charles Wyeth, Jacob Neil, Col. J. W. Wyeth, Charles Wyeth, Jacob Wyeth, Leonard Hamilton, Samuel S. Wyeth, Charles Wyeth, Leonard Wyeth, Jacob Everett, Hon. E. Wyeth, Jacob Wild, Captain Dixie Wyeth, Charles Liver more, Solmon K. Everett, Hon. E. Wyeth, Leonard Wyeth, Leonard Bach, Theo. Wyeth, Jacob Wild, Captain Dixie Wyeth, Charles Livermore, S. K. Hughs, I. P. Cripps, Geo. Wyeth, Leonard Wyeth, Charles Gardner, Robt. H. Whiting, Seymour Livermore, S. K. Jarvis, I^eonard Norris, A. & Co. Page I 2 I 3 3 5 5 6 6 8 II 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 21 24 25 26 27 27 28 29 29 30 31 33 CONTENTvS XXX I V XXXV XXXVI XXXVI I XXXVIII XXXIX XL XLI XLII XLI 1 1 XL IV XLV XLVI XLV I I XLV I 1 1 XLIX L LI LIT LIII LIV LV LVI LVII LVI 1 1 Lix LX Lxi Lxil LXI 1 1 LXIV LXV LXVI LXV I I LXVI 1 1 LXIX LXX LXXI LXX I I LXXI I I LXXTV LXXV i.XXVI LXXV I I LXXV I I I LXX IX Lxxx Persons addressed Page Touro, Judah 33 Gardner, Robt. H. 34 Wyeth, Charles 34 Ball, John 36 Wyeth, Leonard 37 Ivivermore, S. K. 38 Kelley, H. J. 39 Davenport and BjTon 39 Wyeth. Leonard 40 Davenport and B^^ron 41 Wyeth, Leonard 41 Wyeth, Jacob 42 Davenport and Byron 42 Whiting, Seymour 42 Kelley, Hall J. 43 Perry, Rev. Clark 43 Wyeth, Leonard 45 Davenport and Byron 45 Wyeth, Leonard 46 W^-eth, Leonard 46 Bache, Theo. 46 Ball, John 47 Sinclair, John 47 Wyeth, Leonard 47 Touro, Judah 49 Kelley, Hall J. 50 Brown, James 50 Wyeth, Charles 50 Wyeth, Leonard 50 Wyeth, Charles 51 Kelley, Hall J. 5^ Jarvis, Leonard 52 Tudor, F. 52 Parents 52 Tucker and Williams 53 Wyeth, Leonard 54 Wyeth, Charles 55 Jarvis, Leonard 55 - - * '^ 56 Simpson, George 58 Bonneville, Captain 58 Baker, Joseph, and Son 60 Boardman, Wm. H. 61 Tudor, F. 62 Tucker and Williams and Henry Hall 63 W^'eth, Leonard 64 Wyeth, Charles 65 CONTENTS Persons addressed I.XXXI Jarvis, Leonard 66 Lxxxii Nuttall, Thomas 67 Lxxxi 1 1 Mclyoughlin, Dr. John 68 Lxxxiv Von Phull and McGill 68 LXXXV Ball, John 68 LXXXVI Ermatinger, F. 69 I^XXXVII Abbot, Wiggin 70 LXXXVIII Samuel, E. M. 70 IvXXXIX Samuel, E. M. 70 XC Tudor, F. 71 XCI Tucker and Williams and Henry Hail 71 XCII Samuel, E. M. 71 XCIII Sublette, M. G. 71 XCIV Sublette, M. G. 72 xcv Harrison, General 72 XCVI Simpson, Geo. 72 XCVII Wyeth, Leonard 72 XCVIII Boardman, Wm. H. 73 XCIX Wyeth, Jonas 73 c Hall and Tucker and Williams 73 CI W^yeth, Leonard 78 CII Editors 79 cm Wyeth, Jacob 79 CIV Baker, Joseph, and Son 79 CV Perry, Rev. Clark 80 CVI Livermore, S. K. 81 evil Jarvis, Leonard St CVIII Hall and Tucker and Williams S2 CIX Von Phull and McGill S3 ex Wyeth, Leonard S3 CXI Baker, Joseph, and Son 84 CXII Simpson, George S4 CXIII Wyeth, Charles S5 CXIV Jarvis, Leonard S5 cxv Perry, Rev. Clark 89 CXVI Samuel and More 90 CXVII Von Phull and McGill 91 CXVIII Worthington. James 91 CXIX Wyeth, Charles 91 CXX Cass, Lewis . 92 CXXI Rockhill, Thomas C, and Co. 93 CXXII Wyeth, Leonard 93 CXXIII Tucker and Williams 94 CXXIV Tucker and Williams 94 CXXV Tucker and Williams 94 CXXVI Samuel and More 94 CXXVII Sublette, M. G. 95 CONTENTS Persons addressed cxxviii Tucker and Williams cxxix Wyeth, Leonard cxxx Sublette, M. G. cxxxi W^'eth, Charles cxxxii Sublette, M. G. cxxxiii Samuel and More Cxxxiv Abbot, Wiggin cxxxv Seaton, All red cxxxvi Wyeth, Charles Cxxxvii Samuel and More cxxxviii Samuel and More cxxxix Wyeth, Leonard cxL Nuttall, Thomas cxLi Dana, Samuel L. cxLii Perry, Rev. Clark cxLiii Hallet CxLiv Cousin Noah CXLV Wyeth, Charles cxLvi vSublette, Wm. L. cxLvii Nuttall, Thomas cxLviii Thing, Joseph cxLix Wyeth, Charles CL Tucker and Williams CLi Pickering, Jno. CLii Tucker and Williams CLiii Sublette, Wm. L. CLiv Rockhill, Thomas C, and Co. CLv Wyeth, Charles CLvi Tucker and Williams CLvii Tucker and Williams CI.VIII Sublette, Wm. L. CLix Tucker and Williams CLX Wyeth, Jacob CLXi Lee, Rev. Jason CLXii Tucker and Willliams CLXiii Thing, Captain Joseph CLXiv Thing, Captain Joseph CLXv Wyeth, Le"nard civXVi Wyeth, Leonard CLXvii Tucker and Williams CLXViii Grant and Stone CLXix Thing, Captain Joseph CLxx Metcalf, Col. E. W. CLXXi Powers, Deborah CLXXii Thing, Captain Joseph CLXXiii Bradenbnrgh, Jno. CLXXiv Tucker and Williams Page 95 96 96 96 97 98 99 100 100 TOO 102 103 103 104 104 104 105 105 106 107 107 107 108 108 109 109 109 109 no no no in III III 113 113 113 113 114 114 114 X15 115 115 n6 n6 CONTENTS Persons addressed CLXXV Thing, Captain Joseph CLXXVi Thing, Captain Joseph CLXXVii Wife CLXXviii Tudor, F. CI.XXIX Tucker and Williams CLXXX Bradenburgh, Jno. CLXxxi Thing, Captain Joseph CivXXXii Tucker and Williams civXXXiii Grant and Son CLXXiv Allison and Anderson CLXXXV Thing, Captain Joseph CLXXXVi Von Phull and McGill CI.XXXVII Tucker and Williams ci^xxxviir Brown, James CI.XXXIX Wyeth, Charles cxc Samuel and More cxci Brown, James cxcii Grant and Stone cxciii Tucker and Williams cxciv Wyeth, Jacob cxcv Nuttall, Thomas Cxcvi Samuel and More cxcvii Samuel and More CXCVI 1 1 Wyeth, I^eonard cxc IX Wife CC Samuel and More CCi Grant and Stone CC 1 1 Tucker and Williams CCI 1 1 Tucker and Williams cciv Tucker and Williams ccv Tucker and Williams ccvi Tucker and Williams CCVii Tucker and Williams CCV I II Fitzpatric, Thomas ccix Fitzpatric, Thomas, and Co, CCx Fen no, James W- ccxi Tudor, F, ccxii Jarvis, Leonard ccxiii Parents ccxiv Wife ccxv Brown, James ccxvi Metcalf, Col. E. W. ccxvii Wyeth, Charles . CCxviii WVeth, Leonard ccxix Von Phull and McGill ccxx Tucker and Williams ccxxi Sublette, M. G- Page iiy 117 117 118 ii9 120 121 121 121 121 122 122 122 3 22 122 123 123 123 124 125 126 S27 127 128 128 129 I2g 129 129 130 131 131 132 T32 132 134 ^35 135 ^35 136 136 ^37 138 138 140 CONTENTS Persons addressed ccxxii Von Phull and McGill ccxxiii Ermatinger, Francis ccxxiv Paj^ette, Francis ccxxv Bonneville, Captain ccxxvi Bonneville, Captain ccxxvii Jarvis, Leonard et al ccxxviii Stewart, Captain William ccxxix Tudor, Frederic ccxxx Fenno, James W. ccxxxi Brown, James ccxxxii Wife ccxxxiii Wyeth, Jacob ccxxxiv Wyeth, Leonard ccxxx V Wyeth, Charles ccxxxvi Jarvis, Leonard ccxxxvii Richardson ccxxxviii Weld ccxxxix Tudor, Frederic CCXL Brown, James CCXLi Jarvis, Leonard ccxLii Wyeth, Charles CCXI.III Wyeth, Leonard ccxiviv Parents CCXLV Wife JOURNALS First Expedition Second Expediton Page 140 140 141 141 142 142 142 142 144 144 145 145 146 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 153 154 155—219 221 — 251 Letter and Statement Pertaining to Land Claim 253 — 256 Index 257—262 Introduction The American people are just experiencing some startling •disclosures of the depth of significance to them in their destiny springing from the fact that they have a territorial basis contin- ental in its proportions. Their facing of the two oceans through so much of the north temperate zone of itself affords a mighty leverage among the nations of the earth. The main story of the making of this nation holds two fairly •equal interwoven threads — one follows the development of a new order of national institutions; the other shows the lead of that instinctive craving of a progressive people for a territorial basis adequate for their destin3\ Who will say which national motive inspired the larger measure of the heroic? The victories of arms have been more resounding where issues of freedom and equality were at stake. There is, however, no brighter page of American history than, that which records the victory of American diplomacy -when in 1783 against the greatest odds the "father of waters" was secured for our western boundary. And what could have been more sagacious than the stroke of 1803 through which our national domain was more than doubled? Thrilling were the achievements of George Rogers Clark in the winter of 1778-9 and grand the work of the American commis- sioners at Paris in 1783, still our expansion to the Pacific is a tale of pioneering. The ensigns of an axe on the shoulder of a pioneer, a pack horse, and a "prairie schooner" with a household as ■occupants — all facing westward -tipify our rise to a world power. Our national progress towards the occupation of the continent assumed an especially interesting phase in the thirties. During this decade all conditions were maturing for that grand migratory oil-sweep across the plains in the forties and fifties. The van- guard of the pioneers had reached the western limits of Iowa, Mis- souri and Arkansas. Settlement of the plains beyond before the age o: railroads was out of the question. The next move then must be as it were a flight to the Pacific coast where communication with the civdlized world would agaiti xiv INTRODUCTION be open by the sea. But it was a move tbe difficulties and dangers of which v^-ere appalling. All the previous history of the world had enforced the principle that broad belts of uninhabitable country and high mountain ranges constituted the natural limits of national territory. To overturn this god Terminus and lead the way to a wider and higher national destiny called for effort that was heroic. Wyeth and Whitman will always stand as re- presentative American heroes because of their resolute initiative and achievement in connection with this x^merican problem of ex- pansion to continental proportions. Let us note the elements of the situation at the opening of the year iS32,when Nathaniel J. W^^eth had first matured his plariS for an expedition to the Oregon Territory. A quarter ofa century had elaps ed since Lewis and Clark had threaded the valley's of the upper Mis- souri and followed the watersof the Columbia to the western ocean. An accurate account of the character of the country and its in- habitants had been immediately given to the world. TheWinships in 1809 and then Astor in iSii made attempts at occupation with trading posts. Nearly twent}^ years had now gone since these ventures had suffered dismal discomfiture. These failures had not provoked renewed efforts for the conquest of the difficulties involved in the occupation of the Columbia basin. True, there had been immediately a considerable development of fur-trading activities with St. Louis as a base. Annual expeditions by two or three companies were made to the headwaters of the rivers flowing to the Pacific. Now and then American trapping and trading parties would penetrate to California and far down the tributaries of the Columbia. But American enterprise seemed to quail before the difficulties confronting any project for securing such a foothold in the Pacific Northwest as could become the nucleus of a colony. There was no promise iii the posts of the fur companies scattered sporadically through the Rocky moun- tains. The English were our only persistent rivals for the possession of the Columbia basin. Our claim to it was fortified by priority in discovery, exploration and occupation. Quite different, how- ever, was the outcome of their ventures for joint occupation from the disasters which befell ours. In 18 13 the British Northwest Com.pany purchased what was little more than the wreck of Astor's outfit at Astoria. A few months later an English man of war arrived there to formally seize what was already British in sympathy. By the terms of Article I of the treaty of Ghent, 1815, all places "taken by either party from the other during the war" were to be restored, and accordingly in October of 1818 an Ameri- can agent, a Mr. Prevost, received the nominal restitution of what had been Astoria, renamed Fort George. The American occupa- tion of the Columbia basin had dwnidled to what was represented in the ceremony of hauling down the British flag and running up INTRODUCTION XV fhe Stars and Stripes in the presence of the post of a British fur ■company, the crew of a British man of war, and a solitary agent of the American government. This lone American, further, "sign- ed a receipt for the delivery of Fort George, and accepted a re- monstrance from the British against the delivery until the final ■decision of the right of sovereignty to the country between the two governments.'" A few days later he was hustled away and the British colors were again floated for nearly a generation above the parapets of the fort. With the consolidation of the Northwest and Hudson's Bay Companies in 1821, the establishment of headquarters at Fort Vancouver, and the effective administration of Dr. John McI,ough- lin as Chief Factor west of the Rocky mountains British interests "developed at a wonderful rate. It was claimed on the floor of congress that "shares in the Hudson's Bay Compay, which origii - ally were of the value of 20 pounds each, were now selling in the market at the enormous price of 200 pounds sterling." And again ■"that shares of that company have risen from sixty to two-hund- red and forty pounds sterling." With the growth of English in- terests on the Columbia English claims to sovereignty grew apace. American operations were confined to irregular incursions by fur-trading parties and to traffic carried on with natives from the decks of vessels brought into the inlets of the coast. The British were establishing posts and extending a well-organized, Jucrative and strongly supported trade. American enterprise pitted against English on the Columbia in the line of fur trading operations was clearly worsted. It is not ■difficult to see the reasons why this was so. The Oregon countrj^ lay much more accessible to British activitj^ than to ours. Judg- ing merely from the map it seemed almost equally contiguous to British and to American possessions. The forty-ninth parallel liad deen extended to the Rocky mountains in 1818 as the divid- ing line between the United States and British America. The •southern limit of the Oregon territory was the forty-second paral- lel, the northern boundary' was fifty-four degrees and fort3^ min- utes, hence it abutted on the United States through the length of ■seven degrees and on English territory through nearly six. But considered with reference to actual conditions in this border coun- try the advantage of the English is patent. The "Great American Desert" was never represented as ex- tending into the region h'ing between Lake Superior and the Hudson Bay on the one side and Rocky mountains on the other. A vast expanse of arid plains lay as a barrier between St. Louis,, the base of operations of the American companies, and the game preserves of the Rockies and Oregon. This region had to be traversed with the more expensive pack-horse transit. Before the British company with bases on Lake Superior and the Hud- son Bay there lay stretched an uninterrupted game preserve to the xvi INTRODUCTION headwaters of the Columbia. For traversing this there were wonderfully convenient natural facilities of reticulated water courses making easy water transits. English occupation of the Columbia basin was but a slight extension of a long-established chain of posts. American occupation as contemplated by the Win- ships, by Astor and again by Wyeth depended mainly upon com- munication by sea over a route of 16,000 miles. Formidable as was the advantage of the English in relation to contiguity, her measure of advantage as represented in the organization, resources, personnel, and experience of the Hudson's Bay Company was simply' stupendous. How could American comparies, newly organized with raw recruits and small capital, hope to cope with a corporation possessing in sole right an im- perial domain enormously rich in just w'hat suited its aims, a capital of two millions and available assets of many mil- lions more, the stability that activity of one hundred and fifty years along the same lines gives, and as its working iorce a race bred, adapted and trained to its purposes of exploiting this vast region with its unnumbered tribes to its profit? I am re- ferring now to occupation for purposes of trade wdth the Indians and exploitation of the region for furs and not to occupation for purposes of agriculture. When conditions were matured for the pioneer movement the very influences that had made so strongh* for England in the lower form of occupation told against her quite as effectively as before they had wrought in her favor. For the time, however, the agreement between the English and American governments to joint occupation resulted in an ex- clusive occupation b}^ the English company. And immediately Floyd in the House (1820) and Benton in the Senate were sound- ing the alarm that we were in danger of losing Oregon. The}- urged,further, that with the English fortified there holding influence over the Indians our northwestern frontier would be exposed to depredations like those suffered during the English occupation of the "Old Northwest." These leaders proposed measures to pro- tect and support American interests on the Columbia. The mat- ter was kept before Congress almost continuously during this de- cade. President Monroe in his annual message in 1824 also urg- ed the establishment of a military post at the mouth of the Columbia with the view of protecting and promoting our interests there. Expansion to the Pacific, however, was an idea that did not in the twenties recommend itself tu a majority of the two houses of congress. The expense of the proposed undertaking and the possibility that the step would be viewed by I{ngland as a violation of the terms of the existing treaty and thus lead to war were deterring considerations with the law-makers. An Oregon community as a state of the Union was generally held as a chimera in that day be- fore ocean steamships piid railway locomotion. Those constitution- INTRODUCTION xvii ally conservative without the gift of prophetic vision or the index of manifest destiny could not but regard it in that light. Under such conditi''>ns to lend further inducement to the westward movement of a people already possessed of a perverse bent in that direction seemed to invite a tuture separation into Atlantic and Pacific nations. The termination of the ten-year agreement in 1828 made some diplomatic action on the matter necessary, England's interests on the Columbia were now too substantial and preponderant for her to recede in deference to any claim of title based on discovery and exploration. And, further, deceived as to the character of the countr^^ she could see no reason fordoubtingher ability to maintain her su- premacy there. The cause of the United States could hardly develop a weaker aspect than it presented at that time. Both were, therefore, willing to bide their time and continue the status of so-called joint occupation indefinitely subject to termination on a year's notice. Our chain of right to Oregon had snapped in our failure to hold our own against the strongly organized English trade. But we might easily forego that form of occupation if we could only torge the link of occupation by home-builders. The other links to the chain of our title had been so gloriously welded to fail at this point would be a national disgrace. So thought many. The idea was soon to warm a host of pioneers. It had already set one mind aflame. Hall J. Kelley, a Boston school teacher, became in 181 5 an en- thusiast for saving the Oregon country to the Union through col- onization. From 1824 on he gave himself up to the work of agi- tation. In 1828 an emigration society with a large membership was organized. This was incorporated in 1 831, and the spring of 1832 was fixed upon as the time for setting out on an overland expedition to Oregon. But something more than enthusiasm was needed to get an expedition even mustered, equipped and started for Oregon, to say nothing of conducting it successfully through two thousand miles of wilderness. While preparations for the expedition by the Boston Coloniza- tion Society were in progress Nathaniel J. Wyeth, then twenty- nine years old and superin*:ending a flourshing business with some separate interests of his own, became impressed with the idea there was a role for him in executing one of his country's trusts for civ- ilzation. There was in the Oregon territory a remnant of the conti- nent still to be subdued toman's higher uses and he felt his fitness for the work. He saj^s, "I cannot divest myself of the opinion that I shall compete better with my fellow men in new and untried paths than in those to pursue which requires only patience and at- tention." He partially engaged to attach himself with a company to the expedition planned by the Society of which Kellej^ was the secretary. Kelley, the moving spirit of this undertaking, wished to trans- plant a Massachusetts town to Oregon and make it the nucleus of xviii INTRODUCTION a new state. He hoped to repeat with appropriate variations the history- of the Puritan colony of Massachusetts Bay. The New Englander of the nineteenth century, however, was not so ready to sacrificehimself for an idea as had been his progenitors of the seven- teenth. Unless Kelley could organize conditions so that success seemed certain, he could not expect the enthusiasm of his followers to bear them on. Such conditions he could not organize. His colony failed to muster. Wyeth had proposed to incorporate his company with Kelley's colon}' solely for the strength there is in union. When Kelley began to falter with his plans, shift dates and change conditions, W^-eth swung clear of the Oregon Colonization vSociet}' and or- ganized his expedition independently. The motive that impelled Wyeth to undertake his expeditions to the Oregon countr}' was that same primal instinct that has been the predominant influence in producing the westward movement of the Aryan peoples since their first promptings of might. The suggestion was received by Adam in the Garden of Eden when he was told to subdue the earth and have dominion over its creatures. There was much at this time in a Boston environment to bring the Columbia basin very close to the consciousness of natures en- dowed as were Kelley and Wyeth. Boston traders had so far monopolized the American trade with the Indians on the Pacific coast that these had no other name for Americans than "Boston men." The Columbia river had been discovered by a captain in the employ- of a company of Boston merchants. Wj^eth was cognizant of at least half-a-dozen Boston houses that had grown wealthy in prosecuting the fur trade of the North Pacific coast. Even before starting Wyeth had appreciated the fact that the American activities beyond the Rockies were of a nomadic order and that the British company with its established posts was supreme. He knew that it represented a higher economic organization and was impregnable against such forms of assault as the Americans had so far brought against it. He, however, believed that the region from the Columbia river south to the forty-second parallel and from the Rocky mountains west to the ocean, a country three hundred by six hunred miles in extent, was still fairh'^ open for occupation. He proposed to occupy it. He expected the status of joint occupation to last but a few years longer. By the time of its termination the American trade from vessels would have wholly disappeared before the more economic methods of the Hudson's Bay Company and his own and he would be left in sole possession of the region above described. Wyeth as a New Englander is hardly to be l)lamed for not having foreseen the impending pioneer movement. It came from the western frontier. So precipitately did this sv.-eep on and con- stitute an occupation by an agricultural population that there could INTRODLTCTION xix not have been successful a occupation by American traders organiz- ed under the higher form with established posts. Moreover, he un- derestimated the overwhelming strength of the Hudson's Bay Company and its grim determination not to brook competition. His was not to be a hide-bound fur trading enterprise. He be- gan that which has been developed into the great salmon industrj^ of the North Pacific coast. He located a farm in the Willamette valley. It was his purpose to select those branches of business for which he deemed his company most competent and which ap- peared to hold out the best prospects. Had he been able to get his enterprise fairly on its feet his keen business sagacitv would have found and developed those lines for which the time and country- were waiting. With high American spirit he scorned monopoly privileges. Dif- ference of nationalitj- and the bitter clash of business interests did not act as a bar to the good fellowship and mutual regard of Nathaniel J. Wyeth and Dr. John McLoughlin. A life-long friend- ship was cemented between them. Fortunate, indeed, it was for the English and the American peoples that in this crisis they were represented by men of such depth of character and largeness of humanity. The restoration of the correspondence that passed between them would no doubt give much insight into the moving forces of this period of the history of the Pacific Northwest. In a summary of his views on the Oregon question submitted to a Congressional committee in I S39, three years after his return from his second expedition, Wyeth says: "In conclusion, I will observe that the measures of this [Hudson's Bay] Company have been conceived with wisdom, steadih' pursued, and have been well seconded by their government, and the success has been complete; .and without being able charge on them any very gross violations of the existing treaties, a few years will make the country west of the mountains as English as they can desire. Already the Americans are unknown as a nation, and, as individuals, their power is despised b}' the natives of the land. A population is growing out of the occupancy of the countr}^, whose prejudices are not with us; and before many 5-ears they will decide to whom the country shall belong, unless in the meantime the American government make their power felt and seen to a greater degree than has yet been the case." Not yet had he discerned the rising of that human tide on the •western frontier that was so soon to overleap the two-thousand mile barrier of arid plains, deserts and mountains steeps. Still as Bancroft says, "He it was who, more directly than any other man, marked the way for the ox-teams v.'hich were so shortly' to bring the Americanized civilization of Europe across the roadless continent " CORRESPONDENCE FROM THE LETTER BOOK OF CAPTAIN NATHANIEL J. WYETH, Referring to His Expeditions to Oregon. I. Philad Augt 30th 1831 Hall J Kelley Esq. (Genl Agent for the Oregon Colonization Society Boston) Dear Sir I write to inform a'ou that I shall not return as soon as I expected having been detained here on buisness. I shall be in Boston about the 6th of next month, and will see j^ou as soon thereafter as practicable in regard to my ap- plication for a scituation in the first expedition to the Oregon Country. Doct Jacob Wyeth a brother of mine now practicing Medicine and Surger}^ in N. Jersey at Howell Furnace, wishes me to enter his name as an applicant for the birth of Surgeon in one of the companies of the first expedition, which scituation he is desirous of obtaining only in the event of a scituation being offered me which I shall accept, he not wishing to remove to that Country without me. He is thirty three years old or thereabout was edu- cated at Harvd. University studied medicine with Mr Revere of Baltimore and Doct Shattuck of Boston and attended Lectures in Boston was regularly graduated as a Phisician, he is unmarried. I am yr obt Servt Nathl. J. W3^eth II. Cambridge Oct 5th 1831 Bro Charles (Baltimore) I have received your favour in reph' to a former one of mine. The expression of good feelings that it contains 3'ou may be assured are gratifying to my feelings, p[a]rticularl3' un- der present circumstances. All earthl^^ things are uncertain and none more so than those, the accomplishment of which depend upon others and this is the case in regard to the expedition to Oregon, there is no other doubt of my going except the failure of the whole concern but as 2 CORRESPONDENCE: [59 this is possible I do not wish you to take the trouble to come here to utter 5^our last speech and dying confessions at present. The moment I find there is any certainty of their going I will write 3'ou. My plan is to go out there and carry with me what property I can spare after leaving a support for m}' wife, and do what I can with it. It will perhaps not much more than get me there, and after finding what can be done in the fur trade, or other buisness, write to friends, whom I shall prepare before hand, to send me the means of doing buisness, of these friends I mean you to be one, Leond. another, and a third here. More I can have if wanted but would rather confine myself to these, and what money I can make for myself or those in whom I have an interest N J W in. Cambridge Oct 5th 1831 Bro. Jacob (Howell Furnace N. J.) Yours of the 22nd ulto is at hand. Many women are going, but for my own part I would not carry one in the first expedition the}' will of course ride, the route is practicable for horses. I will make riding provision for your wife I fear no difficulty on the route for any one, but some for the first year after getting there. Would it not be better to defer marr^'ing un- til 3'-our wife can get out there b^- means of the second expedition? The amt. of salarv' which 3'ou will receive is not worth the trouble of asking about. If th^ expedition is successful! you will reap a rich harvest from the buisness of the country if otherwise 3'ou will loose 3^our time, the salary which Kelley refers to will be paid 3'ou for services as an appendage to an army and the duties of 3'our place will not admit of general practice because your corps will be moveable. I will pay over the $20 for your ace. The expedition does propose to leave this the ist Jany. but most of such appointments are delayed beyond the time set, all you have to do is to close your accounts as fast as a'Ou can, and I will inform you as soon as I know m3'self the time when it is necessary to start from your place to meet us. All the prepara- tion I will make for you. Surgical instruments clothing &c we will purchase on the route in the cities through which we pass, and if requisite and with your leave draw on Leond for what is necessary for your fixtures. The route will take in Boston, N York, Piiilad. Balto. CincinCnJati St Louis, thence in a right line acrost to the Rocky Mountains overland to near Santa Fee where there is a pass in the mountains thence a N. \V. course to meet IvCwis river down which we go to the Columbia river, the place of our destination distance from St Louis about 2000 miles. The b[e]st manner you can invest your property except what is requi- 6o] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 3 site to equip you for the Journey is to leave it at interest as a re- sort in case of failure in 3'our objects out there. Books are too cumbersome to carry out, the knowledge must go in your head the books can be got b^^ the second expedition, and the instru- ments we can purchase in five minutes when I meet you in New York. The first expedition are all to be soldiers, as much land as wanted can be bought of the Co. 200 acres is to be a privates portion what the officers are to have I have not enquired. N. J. W. IV. Cambridge Oct 17th 1831 To Col J W Neil Boston Dear Sir In the absence of the Genl. Agent for the Oregon Colonization Societ}" I take the liberty of addressing to 5^ou the following queries viz Whether any persons which I may induce to join the first expedition will be attached to my Company. Whether it is expected that a person receiving the appointment of a Surgeon is expected to pay the Society $20 mentioned in their 3rd Circular as a loan and whether there will be a surgeon appointed to each Company and if so whether a brother of mine who has received an assurance from Mr Kelley of an appointment will be connected with my company. An answer to these particulars and also any information which you may be disposed to communicate in regard to the certainty of an expedition at all, the numbers which may be expected to go in the first expedition the route to be taken after leaving St. IvOuis, the time when to be commenced &c &c, and also when I ma}' call on you to confer upon these subjects will be thankfulty received by Yr. obt. Servt. Nathl. J. Wyeth V. Cambridge , Nov nth 1831 Brother Charles (Baltimore) Will you have the goodness to collect the information required for answering the questions below and as soon as practicable forward me answers to them. This infor- mation I have no doubt you will easily obtain from many of your neighbors and customers who are in ihe tobacco buisness either as planters or venders of the same, be pleased to give your an- swers as definite as possible and be certain that it is correct as it is required in order to the raising the article as one of trade be- 3-ond the Rock}' Mountains and a mistake would be bad buisness. ist Should it be planted as early in the season as to be entirely out of the reach of Frost, or will it bear a slight degree of it. 2nd How should the seed be planted in the field where it is intended to grow? or in beds to be transplanted? 4 CORRESPONDENCE: . [6i 3rd In what scituations and soil? with manure or without? in a dry or wet place? 4th How thick will it thrive 5th what mode of culture is required weeding? training, gath- ering at what time 6th [What] method is used to cure it and how kept after it is cured 7th How is the seed obtained at. what time gathered How treated and kept and what is the ordinary quantit}- required per cwt. of the product usuallj" Beside these queries be good enough to make any remark which you think wnll be useful! in the culture of the plant. As time passes on the project of emigration assumes form and shape, and a nearer approach toward certainty. I think there is little doubt of my going, for I find that I can get good men who will follow me on a trading project, on the basis of division of profits, and this thing I will do (if I can) if the emigration fails. i believe I can find other men who will for a certain other share of profits furnish all the money wanted which wall not be great, for I mean to have a cargo ready there, before a vessell leaves here and the investment will be only the trading articles sent out, the return cargo will pay the freight, and possibly be in time to meet the notes given for the articles sent me. It is about 10 months voyage there and back. It appears to me that if I can find means to get the menoutthere with articles of trade suf[f]icient with their exertions as hunters, smiths &c to obtain a cargo, that finding persons to send out a vessell and cargo of trading articles on the strength of it will not be dif[f]icult. This I have no doubt I can accomplish to the extent of 50 men with equipments, and articles of trade as many as they can carry with some iron and steel for our smiths to work up, and traps for catching furs, and with them I have no doubt I can scrape together a cargo for a vessell of 150 Tons in the course of a year. After having done this of [or?] so nearly done it as to be sure of doing it I shall write home for the vessell and an invoice of articles of trade, which from my then acquired knowledge I shall be competent to do. Present my respects to all j^our folks wife and little one, tell Charlie I am going where I can catch him a wild horse to play with I think the Idea will take his fancy much N. J. \V. P. S. Will you have the goodness to send me what informa- tion you can respecting the route from your City to Pitsburg, and thence to St. Louis by way of the river. Name the distance, fare, and mode of conveyance from Balto. to Pitsburg the fare down the river whether the boats will take Horses and Wagons whether they will reduce tlie fare in consideration of our luimber sle[e]p- ing on deck &c or not, with the times required to make the dif- 62] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 5 ferent routes with any other information 3^ou may be able to add. I wish to know also if the boats go in the night. VI. Cambridge Nov 12th 183 1 Brother Jacob (HovvT^ell Furnace Monmouth County New Jersey) In case the contemplated colonization project should fail it is still our intention to go to the new Country in which case we shall form ourselves into a Trading Company in furs. It is the object of the present letter to ascertain whether in such case you will follow us in your capacity as surgeon your compensation will be a certain share of the profits of the concern and your exertions in forwarding the interests of the concern will be required not only in administering to our own men but also to the Indians the payment for which will go into the common stock your answer is wanted immediately if in the afiirmative I will take care that an equitable share of the profits is obtained for you in the contract and -other requisite provisions made for you I am &c N J Wyeth VII. Cambridge Nov 14th 1831 Brother Leonard (New York) I write to request you to collect what information you can in respect to the route up the Hudson and through the Canal to Buffaloe thence by the Lake to Erie on Lake Erie and thence by the Canal to Pitsburg thence down the Ohio to the Mis- souri Branch and up to St Louis Any information you can gather respecting these routes will be valuable and is wanted in order to the fixing of a route for our troops We wish to know if any deduction will be made in con- sideration of our numbers say 50, what are the rates of passages usualy paid a person and per Ton for Baggage up the Hudson to the Canal what are the rates on the Canal for person and Bag- gage at what rate they travel on it whether they travel all night whether any saving could be made by marching during the day and taking passage during the night, and whether their rate of traveling is faster than the march of men, vv^hat the expence of toll is on the Canal for a Boat with 50 men and their Baggage, what is the facility of going from Buffaloe to Erie and by what means and what rates of fare and what distance and the time re- quired for the voA^age, what the Length of the Canal from Erie to Pitsburg and the other queries relative to the Pludson and the Erie Canal as above, also what information you can obtain in regard to the river route from Pitsburg to St Louis. Ifin your way you can also give me some information concerning the route from N York to Pitsburg by way [of] Philad and Baltimore making as little Land traveling on said route as possible also bear in mind in our 6 CORRESPONDENCE: [63 travel we cook for and lodge ourselves and will for suitable compensation or reduction of Fare do any work that will not retard our passage and require nothing but the uper deck if these things vv^ould lessen the expence. If the Colonization Societ^^ go through with their project I shall go out in their service if not I shall get up a Joint Stock Trading Concern (if I can) and go on with a similar plan but on a smaller scale the details of which I vdll give you as far as settled when you come this way which I hope will be before the ist Jny we shall not probabty start before ist April from this place provided we go out on the last maned [named?] plan [No signature.] VIII. Cambridge Nov 28, 1831 Saml S. Hamilton Esq (Washington) Chief clerk of Bureau of Indian affairs Sir Having in contemplation to undertake an expedi- tion to the west of the Rocky Mountains for the purpose of trade, and to that section of the coast claimed by the American Govt. I am desirous of obtaining information in regard to the Laws regu- lating Indian trade. In the course of the contemplated expedi- tion transactions ma}'- be had with tribes this side of the Mountains. It is the object of the present communication to request of 3^ou the favor of pointing out to me the best mode of obtaining this in- formation, or if it is embodied in a Pamphlet form at j-our office to forward the same to my direction. In case I have applied to the wrong person for this information will you have the goodness to send this letter to the proper person and much oblige Yr Obt Servt N. J. \V. IX. Cambridge Dec 4th 1831 Brother Charles (Baltimore) Your favour of 28 Nov is at hand and contains all the information that is wanted and for which I am much obliged to you, but as one good turn deserves another I will trouble you to be on the lookout for a man who is competent to rearing Tobacco and w^ho will Join our expedition on the terms hereinafter mentioned as the foundation upon which all the others are to go for the terms are to be all alike with the exception of myself and the surgeon. The plan now proposed b\' me is to have nothing to do with the Oregon Society, but to form a Joint Stock Concern composed of 50 persons who are to be bound to each other for the term of 5 years for the purpose of following under m^^ direction the trade and buisness of that Countr^^ in all its branches selecting those for which we deem ourselves most competent and which appear to us to hold out the best prospects and to be de- termined upon on the spot all expenses are a charge against the 64] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 7 amount of proceeds, Freight Charter partA^ Cost of goods and all disbursements of every description the residue after this deduction is to be divided into 50 equal parts 8 of which are to be mine 2 are for the Surgeon and Doctor and the remaining 40 are divided equally among the men. I am to procure all credits wanted for the ex- pedition and all disbursements necessary for. their fitting out with the exception of their personal equipments and expences as far as Franklin Missouri. This plan I have adopted in preference to hiring all the men and taking Capital at the halves, for which I have man^^ offers, because I think that hired men would not effect so much as those who have a share of the profits, and probabty could not be kept together at all, in consequence of which Half profits would not amount to as much as my present plan gives me, also the scitua- tion I would be in would be more difficult and attended with more risque as pay of men would amount to a large sum and would have to be paid profits or no profits. This plan obliges me to raise some 5000$ for articles of trade, munitions of hunting, stock for manufacturing and the like including horses from St. Louis to carry baggage, and a few provisions $2000 to $2500 I shall have to borrow of you and Leonard, for I vv'-ill not ask it of any one else even if I go without it and if s'ou agree to lend it to me j'-ou will get it again if I ever return if not charge it to my ace. in the next world this mone}?- will be wanted on my draft from. N. Or- leans or St Louis given about the 20th April. Will you write we whether you can lend me this sum or half of it as soon as con- venient The residue say 2500 to 3000$ I shall have of my own that I can spare from the support of my wife. With regard to the vessell and cargo of Trading articles I cannot order them to advantage until I know the trade which VN^ill not be until I have remained in the country a short time, and I shall not order an}'-- thing until I have on hand a return cargo of the results of our ex- ertions, and of the first stock taken with us, as a pledge to offer those persons who charter me a vessell and which being insured on their passage home will answer as a remittance to pay for the articles sent out by the vessell whichif purchased at a credit of a year they v/ill be in good season to pay for, and this buisness too I am in hopes to manage between you and Leonard, and I do not see as you need run any risque in this last matter except of my good faith, as the operation will be predicated on the amount of avails which we have at the moment of our ordering actually on hand and to which may be also added all that will be collected between the time of ordering the vessell and her arrival. When you an- swer this letter which do soon answer what you are able to do in this matter also. In addition to the offer Mr. Jarvis made me of assistance in New York last summer, he has again offered me by letter an}^ assistance which I may want. This is very good in him and will be duly remembered, but I do not wish to avail m5'seif 8 CORRESPONDENCK: [65 of it if I can avoid it whicii I am confident that I shall be able to do. Something however depends upon your answer. The reason whj^ I wish not to accept of Mr. Js offer is that I have no claim upon his kindness and I can offer him no prospect of profit aG for the first five 3^ear3 at least all the profit which / ca}i spare must go to those who earn them, but after the expiration of the first term m}^ acquired knowledge will be such as to war- rant me in taking charge of a buisness in vv^hich it would be safe and profitable to invest money to a large amount and then those who assist me now will receive their reward, but at present men have not confidence enough in the enterprise to embark their persons in it unless they can have a large share of the profits. I think you had best abandon the idea of coming on here this fall or winter at least until further news. It is most probable I shall pass through your city on my route to Pitsburg. As far as I now know a packet from this to your place will be the best plan. My best respects to wife and remember his uncle to the little Boys. I am. affily yrs Narhl J. V^'^reth X. Cambridge Dec 5th 1S31. Brother Leonard (N. York) Since writing you last I have received from Jacob an order on you at sight for $600. This I obtained from him on account of his outfit which I can make to more advantage for him than he can for himself $100 is the extent of what I shall spend for him on this account, and this sum. will be w^anted about ist April certainty not before, and can probably be taken up in Bal- timore of Charles for in all probability our route wdll be by pack- ett from this to Balto. direct and thence to Pitsburg. The resi- due of the Draft please retain in your hands in the same manner as though it had been accepted by 3'ou, this in order that he may not make a pretext of the expedition for spending the little re- maining moncA^ he has and which if given to his order will be en- tirely useless to him and to the expedition. The colonization Society have so far altered their plan as to join the first and second expeditions into one and both go by the way of St. Ivouis, Platte River Levy'ls River Dake Timpanagos,* Columbia &c. This plan I do not like as women and children can not get started from St Douis before the ist Juty. They do not propose to set out before the ist June and there will be at least one months falling off from the time set. This with the un- avoidable delay of such a cavalcade vx-ill make the ist Sept. before reaching the pass of the Rock}^ Mountains at the head of the ^""A map of the Internal Provinces of New vSpain" given with Coues" 'Ex- pedition of Z. M. Pike" practically identifies this with the Great Salt Lake of Utah. 66] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 9 Platte River and this is but half way and it is necessary to reach the place of Destination a sufficient time before the ist Nov to make provision for the winter as about that time a great part of the Indians from whom supplies might be had as well as the great- er part of the Birds and Beasts leave the country for southern quarters and the fish leave the River for the Sea, and a party so composed and so large will call for all the exertions of all the men attached to them, and then leave much undone that might con- duce to the comfort of the party, and in this way it will be at least a year, and I fear longer, before we shall get any time to de- vote to the purposes for which we go out viz. making money, and for this they offer onl}^ the poor advantage of 200 acres of land, which is hardly a quid pro quo, beside which there, is some dan- ger that they may get into so miuch dificulty as to be obliged to return, which would be an entire defeat of our enterprise, for it would be hard to get men to travel over the same ground twice. It is quite as much as I can do to get good men the first time and after one failure it will not be possible to get them to start again. These considerations have induced me to delay entering into any agreement with them until the last moment, and not then unless I am better satisfied with their arrangement than I am now. If the advantages appertaining to the Societj^ can be obtained without a material sacrifice of my own objects I will join them but not otherwise. My plan (in which I have proceeded so far as to raise 26 men) is to raise 50 men to go out to that countr}'- so earl^^ as to leave St. I^ouis on the ist May 1832 for the purpose of follovnng the trade of that country in all its branches for which we deem ourselves competent. Many of these men are manufacturers in the various branches of iron work man- facturing of arms and ammunition and a few to cultivate such ar- ticles as are of use to ourselves and in the Indian trade such for in- stance as tobacco. The proceeds of the exertions of these men are to be divided into 50 equal parts, 2 of which are to belong to Jacob if he goes out as surgeon or to whoever is surgeon 8 to mA'- self and 40 to the 48 remaining men or at the same ratios for a diferent number of men. I am to furnish all the camp equipage and trading articles necessary for our first outfit to the extent of 5000$, and to procure credit for the Co. for a vessell and an Invoice of trading articles to be ordered to that country vv^hen a quantity of avails suffiicient to secure the payment for the same has been collected. The first disbursement of 5000^ as well as the freight and cost of articles sent out and all other disburse- ments of every description are to be deducted from the gross pro- ceeds before the division mentioned above in other words for fur- nishing the use of 5000$ in cash, and the required credit for ves- sell and Invoice of articles for v/hich I have the goods to pledge I am to have the exertions of 7 men beside myself. This though lo CORRESPONDENCE: [67 not a large share of gross profits is a good share of nett profits, and I shall have to strain some to accomplish m}' part of the con- tract. 2500 or 3000$ of the cash I have on hand the residue I must borrow and I hope to be able to get it between you and Charles. I also hope to get you or Charles to manage the getting me' a vessell to bring the articles I send for and bring home those I have collected. The vessell may be taken up and the freight to be paid on the delivery of the home cargo and thus far managed without mone3^, and probably the goods sent for might be purchased on an obligation to pa^^ at the end of the year or on the return of the vessell and the consideration for length of credit made in the price, and for securit}^ the home bound cargo insured, an invoice of which I will send you when the order is sent for the vessell and the goods. If you feel' disposed to favor me so far as to lend me on ist April next the whole or half of the cash wanted over and above what I have say 2000^ or 2500 if the whole and 1000 to 1500$ if you can furnish but half and take up- on yourself to manage the sending out of the vessell, you Vv'Ould favor me by answering in the affirmative. I know it will be in- convenient for you but at some rate or other I must accomplish it and I at present know" of no other means without I resort to Mr. Jarvis who has recently made me an offer of assistance b3" letter but I feel an almost insuperable objection to using him or puting myself under any obligations to him. I have offers of plenty of cash for half profits but in this case so small a share of profits can be offered the men that good ones cannot be induced to go and hiring must be resorted to and I apprehend that a set of hired men would make my scituation ver}" difficult. They would desert me, would be idle while in the employment and if not their pay alone would take a large share of the profits and render my then half profits a smaller sum than my present 16 per cent, besides the greater dificulty of getting up an expedition on such a foundation. Please write me what time I may expect 3-ou this month or when I may think of seeing you if you cainiot come this month. It is quite requisite that I should see you before I to a!id I appre- hend if I see you at all it must be here for unless j'our informa- tion is more favorable than I expect in regard to the Canal and Lake Erie route I shall take packett from here direct to Baltimore. The countr^^ looks like the spirit of Winter had passed over it in tempest and frost leaving a legacy of a foot of snow behind him and a gale of wind from the N. W. I hope the cold will con- tinue until I am done icing which will be with good luck about in time for a move. I am now all in heaps having just moved into my new house and things are not yet put to rights. Be pleased to give m3' affectionate regards to 3'our good wife and kiss the little ones for their uncle Nat. and believe that I remain Y Afte Bro. X. J. W. 68] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. ii XI. Dec. 8th 1 83 1 Brother Jacob (Howell Furnace Monmouth Cy. N. Jersey) Yours of the 25th ulto. is at hand contaming your answer in the affirmative to my query "of whether in case the Oregon Col- onization fail in their objects" you would join a trading expe- dition to the same parts. I have entered your name as one of the Co. The formation of a Trading Co. on a similar plan to the Hudson Bay and North West is the ultimate object of my going to that countrs^, and tJiis new plan is no farther new than so far as to form the Co. here in stead of after getting out to the place of destination, and to this alteration I am induced by a fear of the failure of their plans, and a desire that mine may be carried into effect in any case. The first plan would be the best in- as-much as men tied in the toils of such expeditions, might be picked out, the second is best in that it enables me to go on in case the Company do not, and also to go on independ- ently of them if their arrangements are such as do not meet my approbation. Now in the first place I think they will fail en- tirely of going, but supposing they do not, they have so far changed their plans as to unite their 2 expeditions into one, comprising a host of men who are merely cultivators of the earth, unused to any hardships, and unwilling to meet any, women and children and to start on the ist June. You have seen how true my predictions were in regard to their first start, and they will be equally true in regard to this. If thej^ propose the ist June they will not ccrtai7ily go before the ist July, and after that, allowing the best luck they will not reach any of the passes of the Mountains before the ist September, and that is the latest month of their proper arrival at their place of destination, and is only half the way from St Louis. You may judge j^ourself how much such a host must suffer b}^ arriving at their Destination at the Commencement of winter, when the natives (of whom sup- plies may be had), leave the country, as well as beasts, Birds and fishes, and also that it is a sacrifice of one years time in our buis- ness and for which we gain nothing but such a tittle as they can give us of 200 acres of land each. This is not a "quid pro quo" and if they manage their buisness as I apprehend they mean to do I shall wash mj^ hands clean of them, at least if I can get along with my plan without them. In this state of the case I have not paid fo them the 20$ on your account, but have made an arrangement by which if I choose I can with- all my Co. be exempt from pa3dng the same by being answerable for all the disbursements of my Co. after leaying St. Louis and still retain the ordinary priviledges of emigrants. I shall not make my election until I find what their arrangements are in order to see whether it is worth while. 12 CORRESrONDENCE: [69 The foundation of the division of profits in this concern will be, m3'self for furnishing the requisite capital and leading the same 8 parts The surgeon 2 parts 48 men 40 parts, the whole profits be- ing divided into 50 parts; division at the end of the contract viz 5 years. Your Draft has been duly received and please notify Leonard that it has been given, all arrangements I will notify to you in season onW one suit of clothes will be required for you and this one suitable to appear like a gentleman in the places through which we go. A uniform dress will be provided for you and arms. Keep all your surgical instruments but buy no more We will buy them in Philad. or Balto. as we goon, which will be about the ist April next whether the Society go or not. I shall delay no longer. In the mean time continue your buisness or if 3"ou must come this way before 3^ou go close it and quit it and go [o]n with us. The chief cost of the journey will be coming this way for I shall travel cheaplv on the route outwards. Yrs N. J. W. XII. Cambridge Dec. 19th 1S31. To the Hon. E. Everett Sir Enclosed 3-ou have a letter from Mr. Nuttall containing in part m^' views in regard to this application to the executive. I have to repeat that no view of emolument induces it but only a desire to serve the views of the Govt, in re- gard to that Countrj^ It has occured to me that the Govt, might avail itself of m^^ services to obtain information concerning that Country which in time would be useful to them. I would will- ingly devote a portion of my time to their service without other compensation than the respectability attached to all those who serve their country', and the advantage of having some employ- ment for the mind, in a buisness that will afford much Leisure. In order to the better understanding [of] my advantages for collecting information I will detail to 3'ou my plan of operations, which is the formation of a Joint Stock Trading Company of about 50 men to proceed to the Country, without positive^ set- tling the particular buisness in which they will engage but to be dictated by circumsnances when there (probably the fur buisness will be selected). This company will leave tliis vicinity some time from the ist March to the ist April next. 31 persons have alread}^ entered their names. This bodA' will go out in company with the Oregon Colonization Society provided that so- ciety do go at abovtt that time, but will go without them in case they do not move near the time above named, and are to be no other- wise connected with them, than may be dictated by convenience on the route as far as the sources of the Columbia. The contract bv 7o] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 13 which this Co. is bound together is to continue during 5 years, and if successfull is to be extended through an indefinite time. I have to ask that you will communicate this offer to the Gov- ernment in case you deem proper, or if you think it better that I make application personall5^(with refference to you)I will do so, but I have to request you in ouch case to inform me what department of I should apply to for this purpose. In conclusion I must ask you to excuse the liberty I have taken in troubling an entire stranger witn my affairs but I am induced to do so by your well known re[a]diness to serve 3'our constituents and your ability to do so. I am Respectfully Yr. Obt. Servt. Nathl J. W^^eth P. S. In case you should answer this, it would much oblige me if you would indicate some method by which I can obtain copies of two treaties in regard to the Country claimed by the U. S. on the Pacific Ocean, and made withG. B. somewhere about the years 1817 & 1828. XIII. Cambridge Dec 26th 1831 Bro Jacob (Howell Furnace Monmouth Cy. N. Jersey) Yours of the 16 inst. at hand. I wrote you on the 8th Dec. an answer to your letter of 25th of Nov. last the following is a summar^^ of my letter of the 8th inst. That I considered your letter as an engagement on your part to go to that Country as a member of a trading Co. in case the Society do not go. That the Society have so far altered their plans as to join their two ex- peditions into one. That I considered this joining of the two ex- peditions as very objectionable in-as-much as it encumbers us with a heavy mass or women and children and other helpless persons whereby great delay and probable failure will ensue. That I have not paid in the 20$ on your account but have made an arrange- ment b\^ which with all vay Co. I can be exempt from paying the same by being answerable for all our expenses after leaving St. Ivouis, and still retain the ordinary priviledges as emigrants. That I should not m.ake my election whether to be answerable for the said expence or pay in the 20$ until the last moment. That the foundation of the division of profits would be 8 parts to myself for leading and furnishing the required capital, 2 parts to the surgeon 40 parts to be diveded among the men, contract to last 5 years. That your draft had been received and requested you to inform Leonard that the same had been drawn. That one suit of clothes will be requisite for you and this one suitable to appear as a gentleman in, a uniform dress will be provided for you. To keep all your surgical instruments but to buy no more, they are to be got in Balto. We go about the ist April next certainlv not later. 14 CORRESPONDENCE: [71 The above is a short sumrnar}^ of 1113" last letter to you this let- ter you have probably received before this time. I have to re- quest that you will continue your buisness to the last moment. I will notify you in season of our movement from this place, and as far as I can see this will be the ist March from here in a ves- sell to Balto. to which place a'ou can then transfer your person and baggage, all of which, not suitable to carry can be packed and left for a future conveyance b^- water. Your request in re- gard to the Centinel shall be attended to. Your request to ob- tain guarantee and commission from the Societ}^, I will also at- tend to under the limitations contained in my last. The specu- lations at the close of your letter are those of all who look at the map but neither your or m}" da3^s will see them verified, but our enterprise may laj' a foundation. Leonard has just left here and informs me that 3'our funds are in the hands of Charles and therefore he could not accept 3'our draft. This draft I will keep and return when I see 3'ou and please send me a similar one on Charles. X. J. W XIV. Charleston Dec 27th 1831 Cap Dixie Wild (Boston) vSir In putting into writing the verbal proposition which I made you this morning, I do not wish to be understood that it is the only shape in which it would be accept- able, but only that this form is one that is readih' understood by the parties, and I should conceive that in this way each would sooner come to an understanding of the others views on the sub- ject. That those who furnish the vessell and articles of trade would better understand what they are to gain by such risk and trovtble, and that those so furnished would know at one view what they are to pay for the same. If this view meets your ap- probation you have only to sa}' for what per ct. you will enter into the requisite engagements. If any other form of compact suits yovi better, 3'ou will oblige by proposing the same. That a party is to proceed to the Country near the sources of the Colum- bia to De Fuca streights as ma}^ be decided, to leave here be- tween the ist March and ist April next, and from whence as soon as may be send home an account of the valuable articles which they have collected, and a schedule of such articles as are wanted for that trade, and for the substantial correctness of the ac- count of such collections of articles the agent of such Co. will be bound in the sum of 2000$ to be used as an indemnity' for loss occasioned b}" intentionalh' false information on the subject. That 3'OU are not bound to disburse an^' sum or money's for any purpose until information has l)een received of the collection of such quantity of articles as will according to ordinary- judgement 72] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 15 and under usual circumstances pay the cost and charges of a vo}'-- age out and home. That after such information has been received you are as soon as can be to fit out a vessell or vessells such as are required, one certainly and more if 3^ou deem proper, and put on board the same at 3^our cost such an invoice of articles as may be required by the agent of said Co. That interest at the rate of ten per cent on the cost of the vessell including insurance and repairs, and the actual disbursements of the voyage for men, provisions &c, cost of articles sent out and 8 per cent int. including insurance, shall be considered the cost of the voyage and that you are to agree to furnish as above and for your profit in the buisness are to have — per cent and that this agreement is to last as long as the party continue together under their first contract viz 5 years, or until they dissolve the contract by unanimous vote of said party, which shall in no case be done with a view to evade this agreement, but will remain in force against me personally so long as I shall con- tinue in an}'- way engaged in that trade, until the expiration of the said 5 years. If you or your friends wish to make any enquiries concerning me I beg leave to refer 3^ou and them to Mr David Devan of this place who knows more of my buisness character than any other person. I am &c. N. J. W. XV. Cambridge Jan^' 3d 1832 Brother Charles (Baltimore) Your favour of the 17th ulto. is at hand. I write in haste to request you to place the note of 888 25-100 against Morton Brown & Co in the hands of Judah Touro Esq. of New Orleans and at my disposal. If the note is good some goods can be purchased there as well as elsewhere for our buisness please advise him to look to me for instructions on the subject. Please make what exertion you can to procure the to- bacco man, more than one if convenient and they are suitable men. I shall leave here about the ist March for your place by vessell and shall see you there and thank you personally for 3^our kindness in thus assisting me in my projects. I shall endeavour that you do not suffer by it. Jacob some time since gave me an order for 600$ on Leonard this order being improper^ drawn on ly I have written Jacob to exchange for one on you This I had done with a view to preventing him from spending it on his outfits for which purpose now nothing is necessary'. This sum I shall not draw from 3'ou in any case further than the small amt. requ.i- site for J outfits, but wish to know if in case of unexpected need of money at St. Louis for indispensible articles and the want of which I cannot provide against or obtain in any other way if I i6 CORRESPONDENCE: [73 can draw it from you any need of so doing I shall avoid if there is any power in me to do so but it is possible that I may so far miscalculate as to be under the necessity of a little more money than I may happen to have left at that place. Please answer this question in your next. With this last assurance and with the note and what L. will do and my own cash I shall make out to do. x\s it regards vessells and goods to be sent me I apprehend I have made an arrangement that will provide for all this of this I am not certain but the negotiation has proceeded so far that I think it will be closed and on quite as good terms as I could expect. The other particulars of your letter I have not time to answer but will talk over matters when I see 3'ou on my journey out. Jacob is not yet married and in his recent letters to me he has not men- tioned the subject and I hope he will go without for the reasons you name. I hope your children are now recovered. Give your wife my respects and remind little Charles and Nathaniel of their Uncle Nathaniel Aifcty Yr Bro Nath. J. Wyeth XVI. Cambridge Jany 3d 1832 Solomon K. Liver more Esq (Milford New Hampshire) Dear Sir I have an unexpected visit from your son who has left his school of which I suppose he has apprised 3^ou. He seems to me to have arrived to that time of life at which a 5^oung man should have chosen some buisness to meet the wants of existence, and done something to fit himself for it. In this line he appears to have done nothing effectual, and he to me seems mortified at the fact. The pride which produces this feeling is laudable and denotes at bottom a well toned mind, and it will certainly even- tuate in something either for his weal or for woe. To humour and direct rather than repress this feeling it appears to me is the best policy. He talks of the sea and other things, but has no settled determination except to do something. This determina- tion ought to be indulged. He wishes to join our expedition to the Country west of the Rocky Mountains and I think that it would be well for him to do so, his share of the profits will be large: ^ of an equal division. He can there spend nothing, all that his division comes to will be in his hands when he comes home, and judging from the course of that trade heretofore it would be no small sum. The countr}' is entirely healthy, the Indians mild in their natures, and entireh' peacible. \'es- sells are to be in our employ to run between this place and that, to insure the rec^uirements of trade, of life and means of return- ing if requisite. The contract will give me 8 parts for taking- charge of the buisness and furnishing capital, the surgeon will have two parts the residue of 50 persons will have 40 parts to di- 74] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 17 vide among them contract to last 5 years. I think his turn of mind quite suitable to this buisness and I should be glad to have him to go with me, and will endeavour to do well by him. I shall give him no encouragement to go on this or any other scheme without your consent, but think you would do well to give it. He will return home in a few days. Excuse the liberty I have taken in thus intruding my ideas up- on you but the similarity of his scituation to my own at about his time of life induces me to speak freely in regard to him and to sa}^ what he cannot as well say for himself. Be pleased to give my respects and love to all your famity and be assured I remain Yr Af. Nephew N. J. W. P. S. His equipment and expences as far as St. Louis are paid by himself in all 50$ this if you determine to let him go you can give him or I will furnish him with it and take it from his share of the profits. We are to leave about the ist March. XVII. Cambridge Jany 6th 1832 Hon. E. Everett (Washington) Dear Sir Your favour of 24 ulto. has been received. From what I can learn Genl. Cass is of the right stamp of character to make ap- plication to in this matter, but I cannot spare time for a personal interview, being very much engaged in preparation for moving which I intend to do by the ist March. If the matter could be opened to Genl. Cass and his views in some measure ascertained to be favorable I would come to 3^our city and finish the buisness during the time that it would require for my men to march from Balto. to Pitsburg. I cannot think of delaying my movements for an object for which I ask no other compensation than the honor of conveying to the Govt, information v\^hich will soon be of great value to them. I will request you if consistent with your view of the case to broach the matter to either of the De- partments as 5^ou deem most suitable and then to advise me whether it is w^orth my while to come to your city in my way out to Pitsburg. I believe that it is not lawful for armed bodies of men to pass through the Country. I would beg leave to enquire of you whether an}- permission is required to be had for so doing and if so to ob- tain the same for me, and also what sort of licence or permission if any is requisite for trading with the Indians beyond the Rocky Mountains. I herewith enclose a petition which was handed me by Mr. Kelley and signed by some of those who propose to go with me in this enterprise. We have no connection with Mr. Kelle3-s enterprise further than accident and circumstances ma^'- indicate, and only wish that something should be clone as an inducement for i8 CORRESPONDENCE: [75 Americans gcucmlly to go out to that Country in order to form a preponderating interest there to counteract that of the British already estabUshed. Govt, would poorly serve our interests in granting to the Oregon Society an^^ exclusive priviledges there. Nothing on our part is desirable excepting aid to get men out there and the enacting of some lavrs for their regulation when there and then leave us to ourselves. I should be sorry if •these petitions should have any other effect than to call the atten- tion of Congress to the subject in such manner as to induce them to act as their wisdom may dictate, in aiding good men to form a set- tlement in that region and to assume the government of the Col- ony when there, and not as the petition may possibly be con- strued to mean to throw the trade or government of the Country into the hands of this or any other society, neither is it our inten- tion to follow our trade in connection or under the patronage of that Society. I wish 3'ou to understand that it is at your option to present this petition or not. If you conceive that it will for- ward our interests as above explained, present it, if it is to serve the purpose of throwing the controul and trade of that Country' into the hands of a society, whose buisness should be to aid men in getting there, and then leave them to form their own mode of society, withhold it. I have to thank you for 3'our kindness in regard to the treat- ies, and ask 3'ou to excuse the liberties I take in thus troubling you. I am &c &c N. J, W. XVIII. Cambridge, Jany 11 1S32 Brother Leonard (N. York) Not having heard from you since you were here I have been fearfull you had writen and the letter miscarried. If this is the case please send me a duplicate as I am in want of the names of the persons whose address you proposed to get for me at St. Louis. This is a matter that demands immedi- ate attention. Since you were here I have had letters from Charles. What he can do with what }'Ou proposed will answer my purpose. Please, let me know definiteh' and as soon as pos- sible what and when you can do. Upon further investigation I find that there will be no dificulty as regards vessells, as they always leave that coast but partly filled, consequently remittan- ces to meet the exigences of the buisness may be made in them at reasonable rates, beside which I have nearly closed with one, already in the trade, who will send out vessell and goods as soon as I leave here and to arrive there about the time that I may be expected. &c N. J, W. 76] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 19 XIX. Cambridge Jany i6th 1S32 Brother Leonard (N York) Yours of the loth inst. is at hand. The sums which you mention may be available to me in some shape and if so the}^ will be used of which due notice will be giv- en you. The draft of the furnace altho common I should like to have if convenient as it will be as good in any other and I have no small one. It can be sent to me in care of Chas. in Baltimore. You have done well to say nothing to Mr. Osgood as he could not do enough to help me, and one great credit is easier gotten than twenty small ones. Give my thanks to Mr. Osgood for his kindness in regard to the letter but inform him that it will not be used unless the pres- ent negotiation fails and I do not wish to broach the m.atter to any but those who are to be eventualy concerned if possible to avoid it. The object which I propose to accomplish through an acquaint- ance at St. lyouis is to have my drafts cashed on Judah Touro a person vvell known in that section of country and residing at N. Orleans in whose hands I shall place funds and obtain a letter of credit for the amount from him to them. I have money at N. Orleans of my own and some which Chas. has lent me, which I may or ma3^ not use as circumstances may indicate. The drafts may be at sight and the money is wanted to purchase goods for the Indian trade. Letters of introduction to as many different people as possible are desirable in order to get information con- cerning Indian trade and other matters connected with the pur- suit of it. I am happy to hear that your loss is all insured I pre- sume you mean with the exception of what you might have made from them and the loss you sustained b}^ not having them, which is or is not a loss as the case may be. This day received a request by letter from Mr. C. your partner to join the expedition. I presume he means if indeed he mea7is anything as a partner. As this cannot be, I shall after considering the matter wdth due attention answer in the disuasive. Lie must be very ignorant of his capabilities. As no one knows the extent of his ignorance of himself all we have to do is to pray that ive are not in the same darkness of which we accuse others. Be so good if the fact was not known to you be- fore as to keep it to yourself to save appearances both for him and m.e as I do not wish to be an informer on the actions of any one however much I may think that he needs a guardian. Y &c N. J. W 20 CORRESrONDENCE: [77 XX. Cambridge Jany iSth 1832 Mr The. Bache (N York) Dear Sir Your favour of 14th inst is at hand I think you have done v^-ell to remain where you are until you set out to meet us at Balto. I have no idea of Avhom the person could have been who called on Mr. S. Swartnoute. It could hardly have been any one who had a knowledge of our en- terprise but must have been some one desirous of joining the em- igration to the same country under the auspices of the Society formed in Boston for that purpose and with whom I do not pro- pose any connection. As you wish to shew this letter I shall omit answering in it some parts of yours. The subjects to which I allude are satisfactorily to me at least settled. According to request I shall detail the plan of the expedition and also the pro- portion of profits which will accrue to each person engaged in the enterprise. We are to cross the Continent to the shores of the Pacific between 42 and 49 degrees N. Latt. and engage in the Fur buisness. Vessells will ply from Boston or N. York to supply us with articles of trade and bring home or carr}^ elsewhere v/hat articles are collected, and by means of posts established there save the great delay of vessells on that coast which in the present mode of conducting the buisness amounts frequently to 30 months and will average two years. This item alone would with the ordinary profit of the trade give all the success which w^e look for beside the great advantage which residents there have over those who can be there but about once in 4 years for the collection of furs and other articles of value. As to our route across the con- tinent I can only say that we shall be governed by circumstances On the spot my general idea is that our course will [be] from this place to Baltimore by vessell thence l)y land to Pitsburg thence down to the confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers and up the latter river to Franklin from that place strike for the Platte River and follow the same to its .source in the Rocky ^Mountains, near which is the southern pass b}' which we shall make the tran- sit of the mounts which done we strike for Lewis River or the Multnomah w-hich we follow to their junction with the Colum- bia which we follow to the sea and locate our posts on this river or near De Fucas Streights as may then be deemed proper. Our compact is to last 5 3^ears. The profits are to be divided in such manner that if the number concerned was 50 and the whole nett profits were divided into that number of parts, I should get 8 the surgeon 2 and the remaining 40 parts would be divided among the remaining 48 persons. The 8 parts which I take is con.sideration for my services as head of the concern and furnishing the requisite capital and credit for the buisness and 78] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 21 which is to be invested in goods to a small amount to take with us by land, camp equipage, w^agons, horses, &c, and in vessells and goods to be sent out to us so as to arrive there within a few months ^fter us. Each man will be required to furnish his own equipments and pa^^ his passage as far as Franklin in Missouri which will amount to 40$ and the surplus to be paid for him from the capital if it amts. to more. In case any very good men apply to you you can engage them on these terms especially Coopers, Blacksmiths, Founders, and ingenious persons of any trade but having nothing to do with any persons who are not industrious and temperate men and of good constitutions and peacible dis- positions, and in case 5^ou engage any their equipments will be brough[t] on with me to Balto, where they can meet us at the same time as yourself by equipments I mean arms and clothing They may therefore come as scantih' provided for clothes as pos- sible wnth the exception of a great coat which should be ample in order to sleep in it. We may be expected to arrive in Balto. by the loth March but when I leave Boston I will advise you more particularly In the mean time please write and give me an}^ par- ticulars which may transpire. I remain &c N. J. W. XXI. Cambridge Jany iStli 1832 Broth. Jacob Your favor of 6th inst. is at hand enc[l]osing a draft on C. Wyeth for $600. Of this sum so much will be spent as is requisite for surgical instruments, medicines, your own equipments and cloths and travelling expences as far as St. I^ouis. The residue will be left in Charles hands at interest and for your benefit or if used by me int. at 6 per ct will be paid 3'ou. Your 2 shares are for your professional services and also for all other services which you ma^^ render the Co. in any shape for you will be required to do all and ever^^thing for the common benefit. If you persist in returning befor[e] the 5 years expire there will be ample opportunit3^ by means of our vessells but you will loose your share of profits during the time that 3'ou are ab- sent from dutv Ys. &c N. J. W. XXII. Cambridge Jany 23d 1832 Capt Dixie Wildes (Boston) Dear Sir Having examined your proposition I have satisfied myself that to enter into an arrangement on these terms would be to ruin myself and inj ure every one concerned in the undertaking and to deprive you of that eventual profit to which you should look as the reward for engaging in the undertaking and incurring 22 CORRESPONDENCR: [79 its risques. In regard to risks I have to sa}' that all you in- cur is merely the risk that the goods which you send out to me to be used on a particular part of the coast may be unsuitable for the gejieral trade of the Coast. So far as this is likely to happen you run some risk, but this is the only risk you incur as all the other risques are insured against at our cost. Even if we should never arrive on that coast your vessell would have the same chance of making a good voyage that she would have if ex- presslv fitted out for a N. W. Coast vo^^age with the exception of the risk above stated which as 3^ou have the selection of the cargo need not be great. With regard to the items of proposition I have to say that it is not m^^ wish to assume specific sums as the cost of the voyage and then cast you[r] per centage on them. For instance you as- sume that the vessell will cost Sooo$. Now altho. this is about what a vessell of 160 Tonn might cost A^et it is probably not the exact sum. Insurance at 4 per cent may or may not be the exact sum paid and 18 months will not be the exact length of the voyage and thus of all the other items. My intention was to propose to you to find vessell and cargo and to agree upon a certain per cent upon their actual cost as your profits in the buis- ness. And as far as goods and cost of sailing are concerned in- cluding insurance and interest at the legal rate there would be no dificulty but for the vessell some other arrangement must be made. I would propose that a certain per cent on her (^f/?^,^/ cost be agreed upon and the amt. of this per ct. be considered as the cost of her use or charter and on this sum your per centage of profit cast, and making the per ct. on her cost sufficiently great to cover insurance wear &c. In short my object is to arrive at the actual cost of everything and paj- a certain per cent of profit on it to those who will furnish me with the accommodations which I am in need of to carry on this buisness. There is a natural impos- sibility in my complying with the terms of your proposition, you ask at least 12000$ profit for the first voyage which is in itself as . much nett profit as the best voyages have given when no larger an amount of capital was used. In your recent voyage 2 vessells and 1 2000$ worth of available goods and 2 Vi years time was consumed and about 18000$ made whether including int. and insurance or not I do not know but supposing that that amt. was including these items there would have been not a dollar re- maining after paj-ing a^ou 50 per cent on 18 mos. The ex- pences of the voyage were about 18000$ as I understood you and would have been 20000$ had 3'ou not bought your vessells when they were low and sold them when they were high if you had had 50 per cent on the disbursements of that vo^'age for iS mos and in proportion for the extra time it would have amounted to 16000$ and more. So] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 23 You have estimated that the product of our first voyage would be 40000$. This would be more than I think would be be real- ized but allowing that this sum should be realized from the 4000$ worth of goods which I shall take with me. The arming andequiping of 28 men and their time and the disbursements con- tained in 3^our proposition and your 50 per ct. Let us cast all these up and see what each one would get. In doing this we will take first those items which must be paid in any event viz. The estimates of your proposition and 50 per ct 29885$ Disbursements b}^ myself 4000 Int. on same 18 months 360 Arms and traveling expenses out for 28 men a 75$ 2100 Wages for men a 5$ per month 2520 Which deduct from 40000$ $38865 There remains profit to us 1 1 35 To be divided among 28 persons which would leave me who have 16 pr ct of the nett profits about 200$ for 18 months. In your first proposition your estimates of the disbursements of the voyage were about the same, and of the product about the same and according to that the profit would have been 20000$ on which 3^ou asked 25 per cent as 3'our profit this would be 5000$. In this you ask almost 10000$. It is undoubtedly the interest of both parties to give the other a good chance. If you have all the profits, I should ver}- soon be unwilling or unable to carry on the buisness. If I should get more than my due proportion you would not continue the buisness and whether the one or the other happened both parties would be the loosers b^- it in as much as the buisness must be discontinued whereas if the profit should be more equalh^ divided the buisness would be carried on for a long time to a mutual ad- vantage. I think that you would do well to consider that in case the buisness is good to all concerned it may be extended to almost an}^ amount and your profits 5 years hence may possi- bly be cast on 20oooo$[?] yearly. To the great increase of the buisness I think that you may fairly look for your increased prof- its. I do not think that in employing only one vessell you could make as much as in the ordinary course of the trade but in the common method it is dificult to extend with advantage in this wa3^ an unlimited extension of the buisness may be safely attempted. I am in hopes that you will alter your proposition as it is abso- lutely impossible for me to accept this. It would be far better for me to go out without any arrangement. I could in that case in one year gain the required experience, and product of the goods which I carried out would if shipped home as well might be done in almost an}- of the vessells which go there, for they return 24 CORRESPONDRNCR: [8r but partly filled, produce the requisite capital. At the end of the first voyage I should have collected here all the capital v/hich I should want and should have gained all the requisite experience for directing it. You cannot but see how much better this would be for us than to make an arrangement on your terms which would bind us during the whole 5 years to pay for the capital and ex- perience which we only want for the first voyage almost the whole of all the profits we could make even in case of the great- est success. I am however very desirous of coming to an agreement with some one previous to going out and think that I shall be able to do it on terms which will offer a fair chance to all concerned. I am particularly desirous of making it with some one already in the trade. I beg that you will reconsider this ground carefully and soon for the time grows short with me and I do not wish to apply to any other persons until all hope of an arrangement with 3'ou is at an end. Wednesdav or Thursdav next I will call and see you. Respy &c N. J. \V. XXIII. Cambridge Jany 23d 1S32 Brother Charles (Baltimore) Your favour of the i6th inst. is at hand. I note what you say of the note of Morton and Co. nevertheless please forward it as at first proposed. Most of my goods must be purchased at St. Louis, which is the great mart of the Indian trade at which I can not only get what articles are wanted but the knowledge requisite for selecting them and there I shall make all my purchases with the exception of a little Iron and Steel which will be got at N. Orleans and the residue of this and other moncA' I shall draw for from vSt Louis. If you cannot get a tobacco man please put me up some to- bacco seed sufficient for a considerable crop and have it v^'ell dried and soldered up in tin cans. Would it not be well to advertise in some country papers for a man stating generally that he is wanted for a foreign voyage. In this matter do as you think best. As it regards Jacobs affair it is only requisite that I bring on with me an order from father to pay the l^allance of account to me, and I will then take what I have expended for Jacob sa^- 100$, and leave the residue in 3'our hands subject to my draft in case of accident as proposed in my last or to remain as the case may be. The draft as you say can be examined when I am there. I am well aware of what you say in respect to the number of men I think however there is no danger of being troubled with too many. All the other matters contained in 3^our letter either will or have been attended to. Please in your next write me the names of some of the best mercantile house[s] at St. 82] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 25 lyouis and if possible procure me letters to them these letters keep but the names send me as soon as possible. The reveries at the end of your letter are proof that you let that liar and thief "hope" cheat your better senses with idle dreams, the sober truth of life is that man was made to mourn to fight and die at last disapointed and broken hearted Yr. Aff. Bro. N. J. Wyeth XXIV. Cambridge Jany 23d 1832 S. K. Livermore Esq. (Milford N. H.) ' Dear Sir Your letter of the 20th inst is before me. I beg 3-ou to believe that I have used no means to induce Thomas to eno-ao-e in this undertaking with the exception of the letter which^^I wrote you on the subject and which I read to him. He heard of the expedition elsewhere and came to me for information. I should conceive it very dishonorable in me to interfere in his plans of life otherwise than through his natural guardians. I have in this instance rather held forth to his view the dificulties of the enterprise than its inducements. I shair not even now write him on the subject being content to leave the matter to you and him. If he goes he should be here by the 20th Feb. He wants nothing to bring, with him but one good suit of cloths which are decent to appear in in the' cities through which we pass. The company dress will be made her[e] as also his arms and equipments. No chest is. necessary as our baggage wagon will answer that purpose as far as to Franklin, where we take horses and then bags must be used. As few articles of baggage will be carried with us as possible their transportation costs more than their value and they can be purchased an}^ time beifore leaving the settlements at one of the last of which St. Louis our final arrangements will be made.. The bugle of which I spoke to him should be of the plainest kind and the most simple to use and the least liable to get out of repair or broken. It will be used chiefly as a signal for parties at a distance, and sometimes in marching a little music will .enliven us. We propose that one should learn it well and then teach all the rest. We shall have as much as ten and to be used alternately so as not to be tedious to any one. I am ut[t]erly ignorant of; all kinds and uses of music but have thought that w^e could march by a number of bugles but if we cannot they will at least do for signals which is in fact their only es[s]ential use. If Thomas will make himself master of the bugle and determines to go please write immediately on the .receipt of this, as in case that herdoes not I must engage some other person to do it. Jn addiU-On; to . w-hat . I stated to you in my last I will only observe that in case the undertaking should prove unsuc- cesfull it would be abandoned bv mutual consent in a much 26 CORRRSPONDRNCR: [83 shorter period than 5 years and in this case Thomas would come home having a good knowledge of the hardships of life and consequently more willing to put up with its unavoidable priva- tions and disappointments than he now is, and I question v/heth- er it would not be as profitable knowledge as he could acquire, for as 3'ou say, "there is plenty of buisneas here for which he is suitable' ' if he can only bring down his mind to its dull routine. But I should be sorry to have him go against the inclinations of his parents not to say their positive disapprobation in which lat- [t]ercase he certainly should not go with me. In case he should go I will compty with your desire in regard to religion. It is a subject which in a peculiar sense rests with each one and his ma- ker, and if I have sometimes agitated the subject with you, it has been more to test and correct if possible m^^ own views of the matter, than any hope of proselitism for which I am not desirovis. I beg to be remembered to 5^our good lady and children and wish them all kinds of happiness. Yr Aff. Neph. X. J. Wyeth XXV. Cambridge Jany. 27th 1832 Mr. I. P. Hughs vSir Your letter of 19th inst. is at hand. As to dificulties in the undertaking each man must judge for himself and also what his prospect of gain. What my own opinion is on the subject may be judged of by my giving up for it a salary of 1200 per year and a buisness that brought me as much more. My own opinion of this thing must be good or I am an arrant fool. To say more on this head would be useless. Examine for 3'our- self, look about in Boston and see how many independent fortunes have been made in this buisness. As to giving 3^ou ever}^ partic- ular of this buisness it is quite impossible. Two days would not suffice to v.Tite such a letter. The outlines I have given 3'ou. As to Capital as much will be invested as I deem requisite and no more and what is invested will be in outfits say 4000$, these we will take with us across the land, then a vessell to leave here and arrive there near the time that we do Cost of sailing there and back 5000$, goods sent out by her f;Sooo these amts. are the smallest sums that will be invested. And I shall increase them as I think proper in the course of buisness. The conditions of my furnishing this and all capital which I deem requisite are my receiving 16 per cent of the nett profits. The surgeon will have 4 per cent and each person will have 1 34; per cent or nearly these different shares make 102 per cent and as there can be but 100 the 2 per ct will come out of the 4S shares which amts. to less than 1-50 of i per cent deduction from each mans share. The amt. of all is that each man gets as near as possible of 8-10 of a full and equal division of the profits and the other 2-10 go to pay 34] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 27 me for my services as head of the Co. and to furnish Capital and Surgeon. I am to be sole director of the movements of the Co. and its agent in all transactions of buisness. I will come un- der no bonds to the Co. Conceiving that the fact of my carrying out with us 4000$ is bond enough because if I do not send the rest this would be all lost. The reason of the case will shew that if a bond is necessary anywhere it is from the men to me, that they shall not after my property is invested in this thing desert me which would occasion a sacrifice of all I am worth but I ask no other than that of expending in the buisness 40$ which they will loose if they do not pursue the plan. I think you said that T. A. Livermore mentioned this thing to you. His father writes me that he may go and the young man is determined to go and is learning the bugle. I hope that this will also be your determina- tion. Yr Obt Servt N. J. W. XXVI. Cambridge Jany 28th 1S32 Mr. Geo. Cripps (New York) Dear Sir Your fav. of the 12th inst was received in due course of mail. The receipt should have been acknowledged before but the pressure of buisness and the want of a little time to think the matter over induced me to wait. I should be extremel}^ happy to have you join us if it were onlv for the benefit of your society--, for in an expedition of this sort most of the persons must be not of the same class with ourselves the society therefore of even a very few well informed persons is an object. You are undoubtedly as fit for the enterprise as most men but do you wish to place yourself upon a par with such men as must form the bulk of our band? It appears to me that it would be unwise in 3'ou but in this judge for yourself. I can offer you no better terms than the rest have viz 8-10 parts of a full and equal division of profits. We leave here about ist March next for Baltimore. I refer you to your partner for further information on this subject. And Remain &c N. J. W. XXVII. Cambridge Jan}^ 28th 1832 Brother Leonard, (New York) Your favour of the 24th inst. is at hand. The arrangements which you have made as to letters are well. The goods you name are used in Indian trade but whether on that part of the coast to which we go is the question. All In- dian marketts are not the same any more than other marketts. Traps, guns, and amunition are all the articles which I should at present meddle with. I wish you would ascertain if Beaver traps 28 " ' CORRESPONDENCE: [85 can be had in your city. Those ^ranted should weigh 5 lbs. double springs, Jaws without teeth and chain 6 feet long with two swivells in it. Of these I want about 40 Doz. If 3"OU can find the article please write me as soon as possible. Also find if you can get the kind of gun used b}^ the Amer. Fur Co. and at what price. There is also a certain kind of beads which is a kind of a cur[r]enc3^ among the Indians and therefore an article in demand among all Indians. Please write me what 3'ou could do in all these articles. I can then tell better whether I will purchase in your place. My cash at N. Orleans I can trans- fer to this place at any moment through Mr. F. T. who is paying freights there all this spring. I have not yet closed with any person for vessells a nd goods but have raked up security enough with what you named to charter a vessell on as fair terms as could be done for cash. Have at command 4000$ in cash and have remain- ing from 2 or 3 M of security to give to those who will credit me for the goods w^hich I want to send out by her. Amt. from 5 to 8000$. I think I could pay on account of goods to send by this vessell 1000$ down, and 2000$ security of one good name beside mine and to be paid in default at the end of the voyage sa}^ 14 mos. Would your firm for a certain per cent profit over and above their cost furnish this amt. Your partner being in England would furnish great facilities in procuring the goods. If I can get this done by competent persons my difficulties would be much dimin- ished, and I shall save giving awa}' during the whole 5 3'ears 25 per cent of profits to pay for assistance which I only want during one voyage. I shall work hard before I will give up so much. Is there no person in N. York who would do this if you cannot. I have some hope of getting it done here but have no certain offer better than the 25 per cent as above. Write me as often as 3'ou can Yr. Aft". Bro. N. J. W. XXVIII. Cambridge Jany 27th 1S32 Bro. Charles (Baltimore) Since my last of 23d inst. I have been buisy trying to make arrangements with soma men already in the N. W. trade for such vessells and goods as I shall want in the course of this buisness. The best offer is 25 per ct of profits to be paid them on my whole buisness for five years. Now if successfull in this buisness I should want neither information or capital at the end of the first voyage and even in furnishing me the first voyage they run no risque because if I never arrive there they have only to continue the voyage as an ordinary N. W. Coast voyage with just as good chance of profit as if expressly fitted out for that purpose. Cinder these circumstances I cannot ^ satisfactory. Please accept my thanks for the promptness with which you have attended to this buisness. By this mail I have made remittance to Mr. Leond. I. Wyeth of the firm of Mess. Cripps & Wyeth Pearl St. your city on whom please call for settlement. I go hence b}^ water therefore cannot have the pleasure of seeing you in N. York as you are po- lite enough to hope. I am >T- obt servt. N. J. Wyeth. 46 CORRESPONDRNCR: [103 Cambridf^e March 5th 1832 Bro. Leond. (New York) Mess. Tucker and Williatas will for- ward to 3'ou the agreements between them, Henry Hall and my- self on both of which 3^011 will please place your guarantee for $1500 and request Charles to do the same for 1000$ and in case he is not in your city send them to him to execute and in either case have one returned whence it came and the other sent to me at Baltimore, also all letters of credit which you have for me to arrive there from the 17th to the 20th inst. Please take a copy for your own satisfaction and request Charles to do the same. I shall not write to you again from this place but will endeavour to do it from Baltimore if I do not see you there which if buisness permits would gratify me much. All well here and in haste. Yr afte. Bro. N. J. W. LIII. Cambridge March 6th 1832. Bro. Leond (X. York) Your fav. of 3d inst. is at hand. My let- ter book is at Long Island therefore cannot give you a duplicate of my letter of the 27th inst. I think it contained some agree- ments between m^^self and men and instructions to engage 15 who would comply with the same, and write notes to all those had seen you on the subject. This letter was enveloped in a newspaper covering post paid to the care of your firm. Please on the receipt of this write notes to Tht. Bache, care of Mr. Swartwort tne collector and to E. E. Lansing care of Mess Whit- ney and Mc. Parian 91 Maiden Lane stating that such a letter has miscarried. A duplicate I will send to-morrow. We sail in the Bg. Ida for Baltimore on the loth inst. The letter to E.- E. March is received for which I thank vou. I am Yr Afte Bro N. J. W. IJV. Camp Long Island Head Boston Harbor Mr. 5th 1S32 Mr Theo. Bache (New York) Dear Sir Your fav. of the ist inst. is at hand. Our camp was formed at this place on the ist inst. We sail for Baltimore in the brig Ida on the loth inst. and should we have a good passage we may be expected to arrive in that city by the i8th by which time please be in that city. Ere this I suppose you have received a note from my brother of your city in whose possession you will find a copy of the con- tract to be signed and which will be done when vou meet us. I04] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 47 The letter from Mr. Lansing is at hand and is answered by this mail. I am &c N. J. W. [Half leaf of letter book is here cut out. This mutilation de- stroyed the 3rd portion of letter XI^IX. and the main parts of two letters remnants of which are given in connection with let- ter XLIX.] LV. Boston March loth 1832 Mr John Ball N. York Dear Sir This is to inform you of our sailing this day in the Baltimore Packett Ida and to request you to meet us at Baltimore as soon as the i8th near which time we may be expected to arrive in the city. When there enquire of me of Mess. Wveth & Norris Markett St. Baltimore. Yr Obt Servt N. J. \V LVI. Boston March loth 1S32 Mr. John Sinclair (X. York) Dear Sir This is to inform you of our sailing this da}' in the Baltimore Packett Ida and to re- quest 3'ou to meet us at Baltimore as soon as the iSth near which time we may be expected to arrive in that city. When there en- quire of Mess Wj^eth & Norris Market St. Baltimore for me. I am yr. &c N. J. Wyeth LVII. Bg. Ida at Sea March 15th 1832 Bro. lyconard (New York) Fearing I may not see you on my arri- val at Baltimore I employ my leisure in writing to 3^ou. I have given Mr Brown a power of at[t]orney to act in my behalf. This I did because he is on the spot and also more intimate with my affairs than any other person. Another reason was that there is a bank getting up in Cambridge of which he cannot fail of being a director, and through him if I wish I shall have the power of raising money provided I make him sufficiently intimate with my affairs. If successfull my operations will require a large sum of mone}' and a bank iti Camb. will be the one to raise it from and b}^ placing my unavailable property at his disposal it may be used through his endorsement at a bank that will always want cus- tomers. I have not yet made up my mind whom I shall commis- sion to examine the ace. of Mess. Tucker and Williams and I think I shall not at present commission any one to do it inas- much as nothing will be required until the shipments are made nor do I know that any examination will be requisite until the ex- piration of five years. If you think otherwise and are willing to at- 48 CORRESPONDENCE: [105 tend to it I will request them to forward their accounts to you. I shall send you certified accounts of my disbursements in behalf of the Co. These are available according to the agreement as soon as the amt. can be spared from the operations of the concern without interest, as also all private loans to the different members on account of their outfits and traveling expenses and notes or due bills for the latter I will forward you from St. Louis or Frank- lin in order that I may send you all at once. As to the commis- sions of this buisness they are all mortgaged for the 5 years and must go to Tucker and Williams. I should have been better pleased to have kept them at my own disposal but I could not do it and perhaps during the 5 years it would be no object. I have obtained letters from J. Baker and Son which will enable me to send home goods and information by their vessells also to pur- chase any surplus goods that their vessells may have when leav- ing that coast. This may be an advantage to both saving them the loss of carrying home a few useless goods and enabling me to purchase what I want wdthout paying freight. They also if they continue the salmon [trade] wish to make arrangement with me to put up their cargoes which I may do provided it does not interfere with mj' own trade in this article. I like the men much and if it lays' in my way to do them a favor it certainly wdll be done. Letters will reach me through Tucker and W^illiams Bos- ton and I enjoin upon you to write me as often as you have an opportunity and you may rest assured that I will do the same. My journal I shall send one copy to Mr. Brown and one to you and Charles jointly. These you must preserve with care as it will be intended for publication if on finishing it is found worth it, and as the character of the expedition will depend much on this care must be used that it be not lost or divulged, as pub- lication would destroy one half of its value and it may be that I would not wish all the facts of the trade divulged before I have done with it. As I am leaving all reasonable vicinity I must bid adieu to all my friends among which I number your good wife. Say to her that her life has been checkered with heavy afflictions but still there have been other misfortunes more difficult to bear, that there is comfort in some sorts of affliction but in others there is naught but bitterness and that as we advance in life we are gradually weaned from our love of life until we pass naturally from this to another existence and that death which in early life we dread so much I doubt not may come a welcome visitor to the weary and worn in misfortune and to those whose dearest treasures have gone before them. Sa^- to the little girls that their uncle iNat has gone far from them but that in the wilder- ness he stil[l] remembers them while probably in a few months he will be forgotten, all but the name by them and this I have no lo6] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 49 doubt you will keep in their minds, life is too full of pleasures for them to remember their distant friends long. My health is pretty good and hope and excitement has made another man of me. I am determined to give up no more to melancholy feelings but rouse myself up to exertion and enter- prise and forget the things that have been and all but what is be- fore me. If I am successful there will be some comfort in it if otherwise I will have some serious and present misfortunes to keep me from brooding over more distant and metaphysical ones. If I fail in my enterprise it will be an undertaking that few men could even look at if successful it will be fame and wealth enough to keep me on a par and in standing with the best other circum- stances to the contrary notwithstanding. The present which Mr. Tudor made me on settlement is as fair an offset to Mr. J. . . con- duct that in a civil way he shall know it, it is too good an enco- mium on my character to keep from him. You need not be alarmed for my temper, for I will keep the advantage of coolness over him and he shall find that I have more patience than he im- agined and too much pride to shew that he can hurt my feelings even if it is reall}^ the case. I expect a little spleen from him but he shall keep it all to himself he shall not infect me with it, it would gratify him too much. I left our parents all well and also the other members of the family some scolding and some cr^dng, and both to equalh^ little purpose, altho they have their effect and show who values us. I am &c N. J. W. P. S. Baltimore March 24th 1832 I arrived here on the 23d inst. and received your fa v. of the 15th enclosing a letter to Tiffany Shaw & Co. and check for 424.21 which is very timelj^ as Charley had even forgot to for- ward Mortons note which he had been twice directed to do. I shall leave this on Tuesday and shall wish to receive an answer to this at Pitsburg. LVIII. Baltimore March 24th 1832 Judah Touro Esq. (N. Orleans) Dear Sir I write to apprise you that on my arrival at this place on my way out to the Columbia River I found that my brother Mr C. Wyeth had neglected to forward to you the note against Morton Brown & Co. referred to in my letter of the 7 th of Feb. last. The note will be disposed of here or left behind or sent to you, in the last of which cases please look for advices to Mr. C. Wyeth. Please excuse mv troubling you in this matter. I am &c N. J. W. 50 CORRKSPONDKXCK: [107 LIX. Baltimore March 24th 1S32 Mr. H. J. Kelley (Washington City) Dear Sir I arr]i]ved here on the 23d at midnight and have received 3'our favor of same day. I will take charge of an}^ of the emigrants who will defray their own expenses at any part of the route provided no dela}' will be occasioned to my party. I leave this on Tuesday next for Pits- burg and should be pleased to receive from you a copy of the map referred to in vour letter. N. J. W. hx. Baltimore March 24th 1832 Mr Jas Brown (Cambridge) Dear Sir I arrived here on the 23d inst. after a severe passage. Please fix in your mind some means of mortgaging my house for about $800 — and pledging the note of F. Tudor for its amt. in order that when drawn as I possibh' may you may not be put to inconvenience. I shall be obliged to draw at short sight if at all, on ace. of the scarcity of money at the West. If you feel able to do it, forward to Leond. I. Wyeth another letter similar in tenor to the first, allowing him to draw at what sight you are able and for what further amt. you think your- self safe in doing. I hope and think that I shall [not] call for more than $200 but wish to be on the safe side. On board the Brig Ida you will find a bundle of nine Buffaloes which are I. Reads please pay freight and hand them to him and pay the damage and give him m^^ thanks. Give mv love to vour good wife and bovs. Vr friend N. J. W. LXI. Brownsville April 6th 1832 Brother Charles (Baltimore) I write to apprise you that I shall have to draw on you in accordance with your letter of Cr. given me by Mr. Norris for 300$ from Wheeling and in case I should not be able to dispose of such draft I shall from that place request you to forward me a Branch Check for the same. I write this knowing the state of the money markett and in order that you may be prepared. N. J. Wyeth. LXII. Pitsburg April Sth 1832 Bro. Leonard (New York) Your fav. of 28th ulto. is at hand. I shall in case I fail to obtain money on a letter of Cr. from Charles loS] WYRTH'S OREGON EXPEDITlONvS. 51 for 300$ draw on you for the 11 00 provided I want so much and if I want more I shall presume to draw on you for the full amt. of 1300 and presume that Charles will meet the same, as I relieved him from doing so at Baltimore, and Mr. Brown can certainly avail himself of sufficient from my property in his hands to meet any thing that I will draw. Jacob says his trunk is worth $100 you may therefore calcu- late it $25. It can be of no importance to me nor do I believe to himself. Leave this morning direct for St. Louis. I will re- quest Jacob to write to you. There is a balance of a draft of Jacobs for 150$ with father's endorsement thereon in my favor on Charles, and this amt. I shall not use and from this you can reimburse yourself if you deem ad- visable and I will retain the draft for your advantage. As Charles has seen it he cannot refuse to pay it. The draft is for 600$ and is in my hands. $450 was consumed by a little cash and the letter of credit above referred to. I will send it to you on Charles if you direct me so to do, at vSt. Louis where I wish to receive an answer to this. N. J. W. LXIII. Pitsburg April 8th 1832 Bro. Ciiarles (Baltimore) Being Sunday cannot sell a draft on you. Please pay the amt. of your letter of Cr. to Leond. I. Wyeth and oblige ' Yr Afte Bro N. J. Wyeth. LXIV. Pitsburg April 8th 1832 Mr H. J. Kelley (Washington) Dear Sir Your fav. of 29th ulto. is at hand. I will in conformit}^ with my first assurance given in my letter of 23d ulto. take charge of ten of your emigrants. Any further arrangement must be with the persons who are disposed to go out. My reason for this is that I am bound by my engagements to my Company and must consult them in regard to any arrangements on the subject but you need not by this understand me positively to refuse it as I do not know how the Co. will be disposed to act. I shall at all times be disposed to further an emigration to the Columbia as far as I deem, on actual knowledge of the countr}', that it will be for the advantage of the emigrants, but before I am better acquainted with the facts I will not lend my aid in in- ducing ignorant persons to render their scituation worse rather than better. fNo signature,] 52 CORRKSPONDRN'CE: [109 LXV. Cincitiati April loth 1832 Leoiid. Jarvis Esq. (Baltimore) Dear Sir Your fav. of the 5th inst. came safe to hand, enclosing' the very acceptable letters to Mess Pilcher & Sanford, also authority to draw on ^-ou for $500 if my necessitys required and if such happens to be the case I shall advise you of it. You have my thanks for the kindness and 5'ou — LXVI. [Letter LXV breaks off al^ruptly. Letter LX\'L opens with- out date or superscription. As they appear on pages numbered as consecutive the inference would be that occasion suddenly arose to pack the letter book at Cincinnati and not again use it until Ft. Vancouver was reached. The words "Probably to F. Tudor Ksq." are in Mr. Wyeth's hand.] Probably to F. Tudor Esq. On the 4th of Jany inst. the wind vered to the N.E.and immedi- ately the weather which to that time had been rainy and warm set in clear and cold, like that you have when the wind is N, W.but not so cold, the Ther. varsdng from 12 deg.to 2odeg. above zero. The Columbia as near as I can find freezes up about half the years. East winter and this it has frozen. The ice when it freezes smooth is good. It is now about 6 inches, but the sur- face is a complete chaos, but as this trade will not soon thrive in this quarter it ceases to be a subject of interest. In an agricultural view there are many advantages in this country the most prominent of which is that the operation of plowing need never be suspended more than one month, and one half of the years not at all, (thereby giving much more time for the farmer's work,) and the facility of feeding stock in winter for the snow seldom falls here and the horses and cattle feed out all the year. When the wind comes from the land it is cool and dry, when from the ocean it rains incessantly. There appears to me to be but a small proportion of the countn.-^ fit for cultivation. Near the sea the country is mountainous and rough so much so that I believe 9-10 of the land could not be ploughed. Farther in the interior the nights are frosty all sum- mer the earth excessively barren producing but a scant}^ portion of very nutritive grass, and I presume there are few parts of the earth where less moisture is found than in the interior of this country. The best part of this country that I have seen is on the Wallemet but 1 am informed that there is a good section of covmtry near Pugets Sound and on the Cowliskie River. On the Columbia itself there is little or no valuable land. Of the Sal- mon and Fur buisness I can inform 3'ou nothing as no buisness letters can go out of this country by this conveyance. When I no] WYETH'S ORRGON RXPEDITIONS. 53 arrived at the British posts my men what were then left being determined to wander no more I was left to ra3^self in this di- lemma. I was invited by Dr J. McGlaucland (Gov. in behalf of the H. B. Co. in this country) to make this post my habitation until I returned. I have been treated in the most hospitable and kind manner by all the gentlemen of this country. There are far more of the comforts of life enjoyed here by the residents than is imagined in the states. Respectfully yr. obt. Servt. Nathl. J. Wyeth LXVII. Fort Vancouver Jany i6th 1833 Dear Parents (Camb) After much delay and some difficulty in the shape of long marches on foot I am at last here and now am as much in haste to get back again. From hunger I have suffered not much. This climate proves to be warm and agreeable but in winter rather too much rain. You may expect me home in October next. Jacob could go no farther than the mountains. His heart looked back to the things of home and he could not see the re- turn convoy depart alone. I^ivermore deserted me twelve days out from the settlements. Both are I hope safe with their friends but the latter behaved very dishonorably. I do not write much at the present as I hope to be so soon with you beside I cannot by this conveyance touch on matters of buisness all I can say is that the first of it looks bad enough. If I should be longer in re- turning than above stated do not be alarmed for in the way I shall travell there is no danger except of my health and that is now pretty good. My party have now all left me and I have hired two men who are to return with me. I have in time of need found (in this land of strangers) kind friends who have alle- viated all my sufferings with the exception of that one which arises from a consciousness that I shall never be able to repay to them those civilities that I have received but I am sure that the opportunity of assisting me has afforded them pleasure. You can have but little idea how much men improve in some points of character in scituations like these. If polite carriage and shrewd intellect are best acquired in more populous parts of the earth, generous feelings are fostered by the wilds, and amid sav- ages the civilized man seems to uphold his character better than among his fellows. Yr. afte son, Nathl. J. Wyeth LXVIII. Fort Vancouver Jany i6th [833 Mess. Tucker & Williams (Boston) Gent I am not at liberty -by this conveyance to send 3'ou any information touching matters of 54 CORRESPONDENCE: [in buisness. I can say to 3'ou nothing farther than that no orders will come to you from me at present. My party have all left me and I am about returning across the mountains with two men that I have hired for the purpose. The small amt. of goods which I took with me are deposited in the interior as well as some furs. Of these I shall endeavor to avail m3'self on my re- turn route but their value is not sufficient to fit out a sufficient party expressl}^ for them and vinless I meet a party going ver^' near my deposits I shall dispose of them or leave them as ma}' happen. Perhaps so much as the above may be allowed to pass by this conveyance. We have not suffered much owing to the politeness and attention which I have received from the Traders of this country both English and American. They have alwa3's given me all the information and assistance in their power. I am Yr. Obt. Servt. Nathl. J. Wyeth LXIX. Fort X'^ancouver Jany i6th 1S33 Brother Leond. I write you this which will reach \'Ou near the same time as m^'self provided I meet with no accident, but write for fear that this should be the case. My route will be across the land to about Latt 43 deg. in the Rocky Mountains and so down the Platte to the Missouri. This letter will reach 3'ou b^' the fa- vor of the H. B. Co. to whose agents in this quarter I am much indebted for assistance and information but for obvious reasons I cannot touch upon matters of buisness in a letter conve^-ed by them further than to say that I shall draw on you or Charles for a very small amt. due them for supplies and please consider this as notice for the same. My journey hither has been attended with much less difficulty than I expected but it appears the hard- ships of the undertaking are much greater than those with me anticipated as the}' have as the}' fell in with chances deserted, so that I now have but two men whom I have hired to go back with me. I think I may reach home in Oct. or Nov. next but it need oc- casion no alarm if I am detained a year longer. M}^ object in re- turning by a different route from that by which this will reach 3^ou is to avail myself of some deposits of valuables which I have in the mountains. If I am so unfortunate as to meet no Amer- ican party going to the states I will not be able to come for it is too dangerous to cross the mountains with but three men and those not the best for such a purpose. My health is pretty good and I enjoy myself as well as I can while dependent on the hos- pitality of others. I make this letter short expecting soon to be with you. You will give my respects to your good wife and love to the little nieces. Mv respects also to Mr Osgood. Yr. afte. Bro.^ Xathl. J. Wyeth. 112] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 55 LXX. Fort Vancouver Jany i6th 1833 Brother Charles (Baltimore) This will be short and I hope sweet. It comes to you by the politeness of the Hudsons Bay Co. and as a matter of consequence cannot contain matters of buisness. From the agents of this Co. I have received all manner of atten- tion and assistance rendered in such a way as to make it palat- able. I expect to be with you about the time that you receive this but if I should be a year later do not be alarmed for it is en- tirel)'- a chance if I meet with an American part^^ in the upper country and if I do not, I must remain on this side of the Mts. I have now with me two hired men only, all my party having left me, and with only three men I will not undertake to cross the mountains beside when I am in a country where I can get horses to ride, Buffaloe to eat, and Deer skin to wear I am as well off as I can be anywhere and if I make no money, I shall loose none and so much of life will be gone, all the trouble of life will be all the same a hundred years hence. From the Hudsons Bay Co. I have drawn some supplies and for these I shall draw a small draft on you or lycond. and please receive this advise of the same. Our journey out was attended with few of the difficulties anticipated as also with less of the romance and adventure. I expect soon to be with you and therefore do not write so much in full as otherwise I would. Please present my best respects to j^our good lady and to the little nephews. My name sake is by this time a famous fellow and I hope he is as much like him he is named for, as little Charley, that is much more quiet and tractable than the latter. Yr. Afte. Bror Nathl. J. Wi'eth. LXXI. Fort Vancouver Jan}^ i6th 1833 I,eond. Jarvis Esq. (Baltimore) Dear Uncle I write you, because it would be unpardonably in me not to do so whenever I have an opportunity rather than because I have much to communicate. Matters of buisness cannot pass by this conveyance which is through the Hudsons Bay Co, I am about returning to the states by the same route by which I came which I do to obtain some de- posits of valuables which for want of horses I left in the interior. In this I shall probably fail but the chance is worth trying for. In case I am successfuU I may arrive in your city about Oct. next but if any disappointment occurs in meeting some Amer- ican party I may be a year later. My party have all followed suite — 56 CORREvSPONDENCE: [113 [The removal of a leaf from the letter book at this point makes the copies of letters LXXI and I^XXII fragmentary and prob- ably caused the entire loss of several other letters.] I.XXII. — the Bg vSultana bound to the Columbia owned bj- Joseph Baker and Son to the master and supercargo of which I had let- ters of Cr. to enable me to take any supplies from her that were wanted at certain regulated prices settled in Boston 6th [a]s to abandoning the enterprise it was by their desire to a man. If the above does not justify me from all reproach except ignorance I must bear it but at the same time with a consciousness of not deserving it. The enclosed proposition I have forwarded to the Gov. through Mr Herron by whom I was induced to make it. While with 3'ou I had no idea that an}' arrangement of the kind could be made otherwise should have handed it to you. I do not ask you to put in a good word for me because I know you will do it if con- sistent with your judgment and not otherwise. If you remain in the country I shall have the pleasure of seeing you again as I am determined, at the present moment, to revisit it and endeavor to improve b}^ past experience. Of this letter you are at liberty' to make what use you think proper. It is intended to meet any strict- ures that may be made on my conduct (for where there has been suffering there is usually crimination) and to explain anything that to anyone may appear misterious. I cannot close this with- out expressing to you how much I am indebted to Mr. Pam- brun Mr. Herron and Mr. Hermatinger for the attention they have shown me. Should any American vessell come to the Columbia there will probably be on board and I think to be delivered to any British post some articles for me. The order which I gave if I recollect right comprised Books, seeds and clothing. Should such come to hand the seed you will consider for the benefit of the Country, and should be used to prevent loss. Books you will take for yourself and all other articles after one year from receipt if not otherwise ordered sell for the benefit of such persons as you deem most worthy of it. Will you allow me the priviledge of writing you from home. N J Wyeth Lxxrii. Inclosing copy of proposal contained in next letter. Fort Colville March 12th 1833 Sir I am induced by gentlemen in this country to suppose that you would enter into some arrangement for a supply of goods and therefore send the enclosed proposal. I left the Boston in March last with 32 men with the intention of forming on the Columbia ri4] WYETH'S 0RF:00N P:XPEDITI0NS. 57 or south of it [a post] for collecting furs and salmon to be sent to the States by vessells ordered therefrom such vessells to bring out the goods required for the trade. My plan was based on the fol- lowing grounds viz. that Salmon (worth in the States i6$ per Bbl. of 30 gallons) would pay all the expenses that goods intro- duced by this route would be entitled to the drawback and this would be a consideration as they are nearly all foreign to the States and being coarse pay a heavy duty, that the saving made in the purchase of horses here instead of at St. Louis is at least 25$ per head, that the danger of transporting this side of the mountains is infinitely less than on the other and the distance to the Fur country much less. In the first part of said undertaking I have completely failed. All my men have left me and what goods and valuables I had with me have been expended or deposited where they will probably be lost to me. I am now on my return to the States for the purpose of forming new arrangements to carr}' my original plan into execution. In case I make no arrangement with the Co. I shall if I arrive in Boston by the ist Nov. next come to the Columbia the following summer, if I arrive later I shall be delayed until the next. It appears to me that as an American I posses some advantage that an Englishman would not inasmuch as I can visit parts of the country from which he is excluded and still not so remote in point of distance difficulty or expense as from St. Louis. I have already lost largely from a capital at first small and am there- fore desirous to proceed on a more secure plan even if it should offer less prospect of profit. I have to observe that in case of agree- ment being made I will give surety satisfactory to the Co. for ful- filling any part of the same or if required will deposit in their hands a sufficient sum for the same purpose. The only objection to the latter would be the difference in the rate of interest in the states and with you. In case of an agreement for supply of goods the suppl}^ of men would still be a consideration. If men could come to this side of the Ry. Mts. as early as July a fall hunt might be made which is all that can be done from St. Louis. Canadians are to be had cheaper than Americans and are for some purposes better men. Their conveyance would not be so expensive as horses would be saved which cost 30$ at St. Louis and the same set of animals are fit for a full hunt. I would not wish more than 1 5 Canadians. These might be procured by myself or agent or furnished me by the Co. as they might elect and the residue of the men re- quired might be procured in the Mts. without the expense of bringing them into the country or learning them the ways of it. If no political dificulty exists there must be some advantage in us- ing a few Canadians. Should 5'ou deem it for the interest of the Co. to close with me an agreement not essentially different from the enclosed proposal you would much oblige me b}^ for- 58 CORRKSPOXDRNXK: [115 warding to my address care of Mess. Jarvis & Brown Merchants Baltimore Maryland a contract to the purpose which I will exe- cute and immediately proceed to fultill. I request this mode of proceedure because I will have but one month after my arrival at Boston to prepare for a voyage to the Columbia, in case of fail- ure of this negotiation w^ith the Co. To Geo Simson Rsq Gov. H. B. C. York Factorv Yrs &c N J W' Copy of the proposal enclosed in the two foregoing letters. I St The Hon. H.B. C. to furnish at their store at Vancouver to X.J .W. such goods as he may select at the same rate that the clerks of the said Co pay for the goods supplied them viz 50 pr ct on their original cost 2d The said Co to lay no obstruction in the way of the said Wyeths trading at any post or place for provisions or animals to be used in his buisness or to his trading furs anywhere south of the Columbia and not within a 100 miles of their posts and gen- erally in matters indifferent to their interest to forward his views and operations and to give him such information as may be in their power and not inconsistent wdth their immediate interest 3d The said Co to Cr the ace. of said Wyeth at the rate of $5 for full Beavers and in proportion for kittens and yearlings and for all other furs and skins usually secured by the said Co. as mer- chandise at the same prop, to their markett value in London or wherever that Co. dispose of their furs as 5$ is to the markett value of the Beaver skin. 4th The said Wyeth to deliver all Furs and skins of every de- scription of w^hich he may get possession to the Co. 5th Said Wyeth to continue the arrangement for five years and in case of his not doing so to be bound not to do a Fur buis- ness in any country to which the H. B. Co. have access. 6th In case said Wyeth faithfully performs this said agreement, then the H. B. Co. at the end of the time agreed on is to pay over to him an}' balance that may be due him in cash or goods as the said W. may elect and at all times he is entitled to claim from them in cash any balance which may be due him over and above $1000. I. XXIV. To Captain Bonneville of Salmon River June 22d 183-^. Sir I send you the following proposition for a mutual hunt in the country south of the Columbia river which I visited last autumn and winter. As to the prospect of Beaver there I will only say that I have no doubt of taking 300 skins fall and spring. As much sign as would give me this I have seen. I have little doubt much more might be found, but in that country a hunt cannot be Ii6] WYETH'vS OREGON EXPRDITIONvS. 59 made with horses alone, boats must be used. I have obtained some maps of the country beside my own observations in it, and I have little doubt but I can make my way through it without guides, who cannot be procured. As this country' is distant an immediate answer is required. As it regards the mules[?] Horses would do but are by no means so good for grass in some places is very bad. If the number required is a very great objection g would do but goods enough to buy 3 more must be given in their stead. The men that are wanted must be good, peaceable and industrious, but need not be trappers. I would prefer good men who have not been more than one year in the country. In case of agree- ment being made you are to engage to deliver what letters I wish to send home, a boy about 13 5'ears old and about 25 lbs. sun- drys. The expenses of the boy in the States my brother in N. York will pay to whom he is to be delivered. The boy will have a mule to carr\' him. With so many animals as I have and so few men I cannot come to the forks and I think these Indi- ans will go no further than where in your route to Green River you strike the plain of the Three Butes. There I hope to see you and in case you acceed to the proposal, with all the things re- quired in it, this hunt to be for one year to meet you at your ren- dezvous of next year the furs to be equally divided between us and I to have the right to take mine at an}- time during the year },'Ourself to have the right to send a man to see to your interests — Proposition. To be furnished b}^ Mr B. To be furnished by Mr. Wyeth. 9 men, armed, clothed for the ig horses year with saddles &c 3 mules 12 mules 20 traps g skins dressed for making 3 men with myself boats 2 doz knives 40 good traps i Lodge I doz files Cooking apparatus 4 doz knives ver million. 20 lbs tobacco fish Hooks a few sundr3''s. 200 lbs grease, if possible 10 lbs powder and lead. 3 bales Indian meat 14 pr. Horse shoes, a few small tools 4 pack saddles and Harness, 3 axes 12 pair Horse shoes (if you have them.) 4 pack saddles and Harness. 6 pair of lashes[?] 25$ for cost of sundrys 25 lbs. powder and lead with it. — said man to do dutv the same as the other men and to have no 6o CORRESPONDEN'CE: [117 other control than to secure j^our interest in the division of the skins. In case you are ready to make this arrangement you need make no doubt of mj'' being ready to enter at once on it except that in the mean time I loose m^- animals. You to have the libert}^ of sending a load of goods to pa}' off the men you furnish. All property at the risk of its owner, neither to be responsible for the debts of the othor. Yrs &c. [No signature.] I.XXV. [The words "Not Sent" are written across the face of the fol- lowing letter.] Head of T^ewis River July 4th 1S33 Mess Joseph Baker & Son, Boston Masstts. Gent. Your politeness to me in the little intercourse I had with you in regard to my expedition hither must be my apology for troubling you with this. I hope you will not deem me impertinent interested in the information I send you. I tell you plainh' that all my prospects of doing any thing on the coast with no more means than I have still left of my own are at an end. I have traversed the countr\- in many directions and found all those places which [are] accessi- ble to shipping occupied or about to be so by the H. B. Co. who are efficient opponents. The salmon alone without the fur I deem doubtfull. Not that enough could not be traded of the na- tives by a vessell in the Columbia but when you trade fish of the Indians it is fresh to be sure but not fresh enough to salt for a long vo^^age. Fish to keep well must l)e salted immediateh- from the sceine. If the plan is to catch them ^-ourselves, I think it is at least as doubtfull possibiUiJty. It appears to me that the impression of the vast quantity of salmon in the Columbia arrises from not considering the vast number of Indians employed in catching what is seen. If each Indian catches three a day it would feed his family and still permit him to bring one along side, and this would give more salmon than would be requisite for a cargo but salmon would in this case be from 6 to 30 hours out of the water which is far too long in this warm climate. I shall return next year about the time that you receive this and probably endeavor to form some connection to carr}' on some buisness in this country. One years more experience here will enable me to speak with more confidence of the foregoing mat- ters. The mean time will be employed in a trapping expedition with 1 1 men south of the Columbia River. I intend to reach the vicinity of St. Francisco. I shall beg the honor of communica- ting with j'-ou on my return. I subjoin a list of the posts occu- pied or about to be so by the H. B. Co on this coast viz. an oc- ii8] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 6i casional post on the Umquoi River which is in latt. about 44 deg. Fort George or Astoria renewed in 1830 and to be kept up. One at Fraizers River which emtys into Pugetts Sound about 30 miles up. It is in contemplation to move this post to the coast and a lit- tle south of the mouth of the River. One to be established this year south of Nass. One already established at Nass. Also 4 Bgs. and Schs. employed on the coast continuously. One to be established north of Nass this year. The loss of Capt. lyamberts Bg. I suppose you have already heard. The Active I have heard has gone to the Islands. I have found no means of sending any of the business letters with which you entrusted me. The family letters I gave to Capt McNeil now in the Cos. service to deliver if he fell in with 3'our vessells. I am yr. obt. servt. Nathl J Wyeth. LXXVI. Heads of Lewis River July 4th i832[3] Wm H. Boardman Esq. (Boston Masstts) Sir Having received from Capt. McNeil the accompanying letters I take the liberty of ad- dressing you. I shall return to the States about a year from the time you receive this and shall then beg the favour to wait on you with a letter of introduction from Capt. McNeil. It is not in my power to communicate any information which can be interest- ing to you other than what I presume is contained in the letter of Capt. McNeil, except a list of the posts established or about to be so and the vessells in the employ of the H. B. Co. on the N. W. coast. I beg you to believe that I have no interested views in communication I make. When I return I shall be able from a two ^j-ears experience in the country to form a judgement whether an}' thing can be done in it and shall then endeavour to form some connection to enable me to do it. Your acquaintance Mr. F. Tudor will give you any information respecting myself which you may desire. I was some years in his service and he knows me well. I am yr. obt. Servt. Nathl J Wyeth. Vz An occasional post at the Umquou River in I^att about 44 deg. " Fort George or Astoria renewed some time since " One 30 miles up Fraizers River which empty s into Pugetts Sound. This post will probably be removed to the Coast a little south of the river. One south of Nass to be established this year One at Nass, now established. One north of Nass to be established this year Kept continually on the coast, Your Bg Lima Capt McNeil Diyad [Dr^^ad] Bg. Capt. Kipling Cadboro Bg. Capt. Sinclair Vancouver sch. to be launched about May Cap. Duncan 62 CORRESPONDRNCK: [119 LXXVIl. [The words "Not Sent" are written across the face of the fol- lowing letter.] Heads of Lewis River July 4th 1S33 F. Tudor Ksci- (Boston) Dear Sir Since my last from Vadcouver of Jany i6th I have by devious routes and with two men made my way to this place which is near the back bone of America and in lyatt 46 deg. some minutes. Excepting 6 weeks which were spent at Vancouver I have been continually on the march since I left you. I can now speak more freely of my circumstances than in my last. I have obtained enough furs to pay my expenses since I left home but the}^ are hidden in the country and I have not beeti able to make my way to them as yet. I remain here for this and other purposes one year more. I have recruited 9 more men which makes me 1 2 in all and 34 Horses and mules. With these I shall make a hunt and p[e]rhaps obtain what furs I collected last year. In the progress of this years hunt I mean to go southward to near the vicinity of the Spanish settlements in Calafornia. If I am unsuccessful this is my last effort and how- ever disagreeable it may be I shall then return home, and solicit again the place which your generosity once honored me with. Strict necessity will only bring me to this. I beg you will excuse, you know my troubles and altho my course has l)een different from what you advised I trust that you will have lenity enough to excuse what you doubtless deem a weakness and perhaps truly (a man is no judge of his own maladies. ) In a letter to Mr. Wm H. Boardman Esq. I hinted that in case a farther experience should justify hopes of success in this coun- try, I should return with a view to form some connection to en- able me to pursue it. I refered him to you for a farther knowl- edge of myself. Allow me to suggest the same to yourself. In some of your last communications to me you hinted your inten- tion of quitting the Ice buisness. I hope you have not done so. It is a good permanent income to stand upon in case of dis[as]- trous speculations to which all are liable. I anticipate that you have realized much money from your coifee operations. I can- not see how you can fail of making some. Be assured if my wishes would avail anything you would make plenty. I am now writing in the open air. I am shivering with cold, badly clothed in skins. Here there is no wood to warm one [and] all nature seems clothed in gloom. Be assured I look back upon what and where I should have been, if but for one thing in great bitterness of spirit. Distance as you conjectured has brought no balm to the wounded mind and physical suffering has not allevi- i2o] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 63 a ted the mental, nevertheless my perse verence (or obstinacy as you please to term it ) is not worn out, and if things go bad the determination to make them go better is not the less. My health is nearly the same as when with you. The bad food and starva- tion of this country does not agree well with me. I am starting in a dangerous route in case the worst should happen my best wishes are that your prosperity and happiness may be in propor- tion to your talent and perseverence in buisness and your kind- ness and favor to myself in better days more I cannot wish you. Be pleased to give my respects to Mr. Gordon. I am yr. obliged and obt servt. Nathl J Wyeth LXXVIII. ["Not Sent" written across the face.] Heads of Lewis River July 4th 1833 Mess. Tucker & Williams and Henrs^ Hall Esq, (Boston Masstts) Gent. Since mine of i6th Jany last I have made my way to this place but without being able to obtain my deposites of furs or goods. I have however been able to raise 9 more men making a party now of 12 with 34 horses and mules. With these I shall make a hunt, and probably reach to near the Spanish settlement of St. Francisco, and on my return obtain my last years deposites of furs &c. All this if I do not loose mj- scalp. If no such acci- dent happens you will see me about one year from the time that you receive this. In the mean time no orders will come to you from me. The requisite amt. of furs I have collected, but the}' are not at accessible places, neither do I deem the buisness of the coast of such certain issue as to induce me to risk bringing out a vessell. The whole coast as far as furs are concerned is taken up by the H.B.Co. iVs to Salmon those of the Columbia only are superior. A sufficient quan[ti]ty of these could be traded but when you trade a salmon it is from 6 to 30 hours old which is to[o] old in this warm climate to salt well. It is true it will keep, but sal- mon badly cured is a common article, and will bring but a small price. I am quite sure that traded salmon could not be cured so as to be first rate and others would hardly pay sending home. To catch them is a matter that requires much knowledge. The In- dian mode is too slow. Several good fisherys would be requisite for the sufficient and speedy supply of a vesseel. I should not venture on the latter mode without myself coming home and put- ting up the requisite materials and implements for the buisness beside I think as all my men have left me and in future I should have the responsibility of wages to men, it would be more pru- dent to form a connection if possible and avoid a liability to which my own means are not adequate. I remain Gent, your obt. Servt Nathl J. WVeth 64 CORRKSPOXDRNX'K: [121 LXXIX. ["Not Sent" written across the face.] Heads of Lewis River July 4th 18,^3 Brother Leonard (New York) While I ara shivering with the cold without wood and nothing but a few skins to cover my naked- ness you are probably enjoying the festivities of the day with your wife and litttle ones at your side. To think of those things gives me the blue Devils. Time has not rid me of these and physical suifering has not lessened the mental but rather points my mind to the cause. If I can still as of old sing "Heave care oerside &c"it is rather in obstinacy than in truth or perhaps is more like a good dinner & wine thrown back from a gorged stomach. I drew on you from Colville for about $100. In the letter in which I advised you of it I could not well apologize for the liberty that I took as I knew it would be examined. If you knew my neces- sitys I believe you would not ask the reason of my drawing on you without funds. If you will reccollect I left the land which I bought of Harvd Colledge under mortgage. This will be due two years from last March. On this land I have paid $500. My pride is much concerned in keeping it and my necessity's from the world. Should I not return in time to make arrangements my- self, I beg you to enable Mr. Brown to defer payment by remortg- aging it. A farther payment of $500 would certainly enable him to do this and perhaps he can without any further payt. I shall write Charles to the same effect. That you will do it between you is my only dependence, and consider that there are enough things to mortif^^ me without such an experience as the failure of this would subject me to, still do not for me go farther than your duty to your-self and family will admit of. I am alone in the world and if my misfortunes are heavy, there is but one to bear them, I wish not to drag others into them. As it regards my buisness in this country what I have done I have done mostly without help. The furs I have got would in all if in the states pay my expenses but they are deposited in the earth in remote places where I was obliged to leave them for want of animals and it is a chance if I am able ever to get them. I shall give no orders under the contract for which you are security and I hope you will consider this in the matter of the land mentioned above. I have with much exertion recruited my party to 12 men my- self included and 34 animals and shall make a years hunt and endeavour to obtain some of my furs of last year in the progress of this hunt. I shall go southward as far as the vicinity of St. Francisco in New Calafornia and if no accident happens to me and there is a possibility of so doing I shall be with you about a year from the time that you receive this. The enterprise I am upon is a dangerous one but I trust to rav usual good luck to bear me 122] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 65 through. Should I give a letter of introduction to you to any one connected with the Fur trade I wish you would not inform them whether I am worth any thing or not as it is not for my in- terest that they should suppose that they have an inefficient op- ponent. Let them infer what they please but at the same time extend to them as much hospitality as you possibly can. Reccol- lect that I have already drawn largely on theirs and am con- tinually exposed to do the same again and do not be startled at any difference of manners and appearance reccollect that they have been educated with the Bears of the wilderness. Remember me affectionately to your wife and the little ones and believe that I reccollect you as often as I have occasion for your kindness, as you may well infer from my drafts on your cash, and I hope that you will do me the credit of doing so at other times. My health [is] much the same as when I was at home. I send you a Boy. Please send him to my wife and pay what expenses are incurred on him to vour place. I am vour affte Bro. Nath. J Wyeth LXXX. ["Not Sent" written across the face.] Heads of Lewis River July 4th 1833 Bro. Charles (Baltimore) I hope that today you are better off than myself. I hope you are in peace of mind and content enjoying with your friends and family the festivities of the day and I hope you have a thought too of me. Imagine to yourself a fellow seat- ed on the open and extensive prairie beside a little brook without a lire in freezing weather and poorly clad in skins with plenty of poor raw dried buffaloe meat and you see Nat. A meeting with Mr. Bonneville gives me the power to make up jointty wnth him a party for a hunt for this season. I shall not come home this year. My party is 12 in number with myself and 34 animals. With these I shall go southward to the vicinity of St. Francisco in New Calafornia. Since I have been in the country I have col- lected Furs enough to pay my expenses but they are deposited in such places as render it at least doubtful if ever I see them again. They were left for want of horses to carry them. This and other matters relating to my being worth property or not please not to communicate to any one connected with the Fur trade even if he come with a letter from me. If they find out my true circum- stances let it be by their own wits. It is not my interest that they sup[p]ose me worth nothing, at the same time should I give a letter of introduction to any of them have the goodness to ex- tend as much hospitality to them as you can. Keep in mind that in this countr}^ I am continually liable to receive it from them and that I have already received much. Your bond for the fulfil- 66 CORRESPONDENCH: [123 ment of a contract with Mess Tucker and Williams you may now consider a dead letter. I shall make no use of the contract with them at least until I see j'ou. I have a request to ask of you and Leonard jointly. It is that 3^011 would enable Mr Brown to defer the payment to Harvd Colledg-e for the land I bought of them. It becomes due two years from last March. I have paid 500$ on this land a farther payt. of 500$ would undoubtedly enable him to remortgage it. My pride has but little to cling to now save it I beg of you in this respect. If I return as I expect in about one year from the time you receive this I can arrange the matter m>'- self. But there is so much [doubt] of my being able to do so that I deem it requisite to make the above request at this time. Please give my affectionate respects to your lady and little ones. Yr afte Bro. X. J. W. LXXXI. [/'Not Sent" written across the face.] Heads of Lewis River July 4th 1833 Leond. Jarvis Ksq. (Baltimore) Dear Uncle, Since my last of i6tb J any from Fort Vancouver I have made my wa}"- so far across the land with two men but have not been able to go to the places where my furs of last year are deposited. Circumstances now en- able me to raise a small party of men with which to try again if any thing can ])e made in this countr\\ My scituation is here far from l>eing comfortable. Since my last I have seen some suffer- ing and this year I shall probably see much more and with so small a party there is some danger. Since I have been in the country- I have caught furs enough to pay all of my expenses if they were in the States but I do not much expect to be able to get them without as much trouble and expense as would be re- quired to catch as many more and for this purpose I am about starting for a hunt to the southward of the Columbia River. In the course of this hunt I shall probably go to near the vSpanish settlement of St. Francisco in New Calafornia. About a year from the time you receive this you may expect to see me in your city. I think there is a good chance to make money in this coun- try. A good hunter can take an average of 1 20 skins in a year these are worth in Boston alx)ut $1000. Such hunters can be hired for about 400$ payable in goods at an average of 600 per ct profit. The animals to do the buisness of a camp cost here about 4$ in goods prime cost in Boston or N. York. A band of 20 hunters require about 10 men for the various buisness of the camp. These with transportation horses $3300 for these men do not take all their pay in goods. The Hunters do not actually cost more than 2000$. This as you will perceive will leave a large profit. I am certain that had I the means now here I could 124] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 67 do as well as this. All the means that I have with me and avail- able onl}^ enable me to fit out a partj^ of 12 men and 34 horses and mules. This party is one half mine and one half Mr Bone- villes and myself am to lead it and take one half of the skins. The result of this party will show whether my calculation above giv - en is correct and if so will enable me to follow the buisness. If it proves otherwise I shall give it all up and come home and per- haps remain there. I have made a proposal to the Hon. H. B. Co. and requested them to direct their answer to your care. Will you have the goodness to open their letter and write them that for reasons above stated I am not with you to do so myself. Say to them that I am on a hunting excursion and will stop at some of their posts where by means of their general letter to the win- tering partners I shall find if it is accepted and in such case I will hand over the proceeds of my hunt to meet the requisitions of the contract, but in fault of finding such information shall proceed to the x\merican rendezvous in the Mts. where b}^ 5'our tfleans I will get their answer and act accordingly. Will you also have the goodness to send me a copy of their answer and contract if one is sent not the original as the appearance of it would procure its being stoped by some interested trader. This 3^ou can do by send- ing the letters to Mess. Von Pool and McGil or Mr. E. E. March of St. Eouis with a request that they will place the letters in such hands as they will reach the rendezvous of the Americans in the mountains. If all this is to[o] much trouble as I much fear please make this request over to Charles. Please give my re- spects to my good aunt. I am yr aft Nephew N. J. Wyeth LXXXII. Heads of Lewis River July 4th 1833 Mr. Thomas Nuttall (Cambridge) Dear Sir I have sent through my brother Leond of N. York a package of plants collected in the interior and on the western coast of America somewhere about Eatt. 46 deg. I am afraid they will be of little value to you. The rain has been so constant where I have been gathering them that they have lost their colors in some cases, and they will be liable to further accident on their route home. I shall remain here one more year. You if in Camb. may ex- pect to see me in about one year from the time you receive this. I shall then ask you if you will follow another expedition to this country in pursuit of your science. The cost would be less than living at home. I have several times attempted to preserve birds to send you but have failed from the moisture and warmth. Excuse the shortness of this as I have many letters to write and little time to do it in. Resplv Yr. obt. servt. Nathl. J W^-eth 68 CORRESPONDENCK: [125 P. S. By the notes on the paper m}' journal will show the place from which the plant comes if kept in its proper sheet until I come home. LXXXIIL ["This letter sent by Mr Ermatinger" written across the face.] Plain of the Three Butes July 5th 5833 Dear Sir Haviui^ arr[i]v^ed at the camp of Mr, Bonneville I take the lib- erty Lofi writing you by this last opportunity to express how much I am under obligation to Mr. Ermatinger for the polite and agree- able manner in which he has dispensed your hospitality to me during the whole route. I am here in a direct train for the States, and cannot without some extraordinary accident fail of reaching home in Oct. next. Should you visit the states I would feel myself highly honored by a visit or any intercourse which might he agreeable to you for which purpose I have enclosed my direction. vShould any of your friends visit the States a letter would procure them any at- tention which may \ye in my power. It will be a pleasure to exe- cute any buisness commands with which you may entrust me. Models of Agricultural implements, seeds and other matters connected with your tastes or buisness. ' Resply. yr. obt. Servt. Xathl. J. Wyeth To Doct. McEaughland Fort Vancouver. LXXXIV. Heads of Green River July 1 8th 1833 Mess. Yon Phul & McGill Gent The enclosed draft by Mess. Bon- neville & Co. $366.66 I desire you will collect of the Bearer Mr. C. Cerri. If not paid b3' him at sight, please forward it for col- lection to Mr Eeond. I. Wyeth of the firm of Cripps & Wyeth lace goods dealers New York and oblige Yr. Obt. Ser^'t. Nathl. J. Wyeth. LXXXV. Green River Julv i8th 1833 Mr John Ball Dear Sir I write to inform you that my agents at Boston have sent to the care of Mess Bringsmade Ladd and Hooper of the Sandwich Islands two trunk and some letters for you from thence they will be forwarded to the Columbia River by the first opportunity. I return home by the Yellowstone and Missouri in boats. I am Yr Obt vServt Xath J Wyeth. 126] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. . 69 LXXXVI. Green River July i8th 1833 Mr F. Ermatinger Dear Sir I arrived here on the i6th 9 daj's from your camp Saw no Indians but saw the bones of Mr More killed by the Blkfeet last year and buried them. He was one of my men who left me in Pier[r]es Hole last year. A Mr Nudd was also killed by them. All the rest arrived well in the States. I found here about 250 whites. A list of the Cos. and their Beaver which I have seen I subjoin. I should have been proud of my countrymen if 3^ou could have seen the American Fur Co. or the party of Mr. S. Campbell. For efficiency of goods, men, animals and arms, I do not believe the fur business has afforded a better example or discipline. I have sold my animals and shall ,make a boat and float down the Yellowstone and Missouri and see what the world is made of there. Mr. Wm Sublette and Mr Campbell have come up the Missouri and established a trading fort at each location of the posts of the Am. Fur Co. with a view to a strong oppo- sition. Good luck to their quarrels. I have got letters from the vStates. The chief news are that the cholera Morbus has swept through them killing 5000 people in N York and in proportion elsewhere. Genl. Jackson president an insurrection in the South- ern States on ace. of the Tariff but quelled by Bloc[k]ading their ports and the repeal of the most obnoxious parts of the same. About 25 Americans have been killed during the last year. A Snake village is here with us. I find Bonnevilles connections are responsible [A statement that he has a draft from B. for horses follows but is crossed out.] he being very short of them. He lost one entire party among the Crows that is the Horses and of course all the Beavers. A party under Bridger and Frapp also lost their horses by the Aricarees, also Harris party lost theirs by the same Inds. who have taken a perma- nent residence on the Platte and left the Missouri which is the reason I go b}' the last named river. Harris party did not interfere with any of my plans south of Snake River. In my opinion you would have been Robbed of your goods and Beaver if j^ou had come here altho it is the west side of the Mts. for Green River emtys into the head of the Gulph of Cala- fornia. I give you this as an honest opinion which you can communicate to the Co. There is here a great majority of Scoun- drels. I should much doubt the personal safet5' of any one from your side of the house. My Respects to Mr. Payette and believe me yr. sincere friend Nathl J. Wyeth. Drips and Fontenelle arrd July 8th 160 men a good supply of animals. (3btained 51 packs of 100 lbs ea. Beaver. ^o CORRKSPONDKNXE;: [127 Rockj' Mtn.Fur Co. 55 packs 55 men well supplied one party not in Beaver sent home by Mr. Campbell. Mess. Bonneville & Co. 22V2 packs. Few goods few horses and poor Capt. Cerry goes home B. remains. Harris party now in hand 7 packs Beaver and are on foot. Lxxxvri. I^ibertv'" 29th Sept. 1833 M r Wiggin Abbot (Kxpected from the upper Missouri soon) I leave in charge of Mr Samuel some cloths for you. He will also supply you with money sufficient to come to the eastward and for other necessary expenses. I hope to see you soon and remain Yrs &c [No signature.] P. S. When you arrive at Baltimore call on W'yeth and Xor- ris for me. I.XXXVIII. Liberty vSept 29th 1S33 Dear Sir (E. M. vSamuel) (Present) As it is my presetit intention to return across the mountains to the Columbia the next Spring I deem it requisite to open some arrangement for the purchase of the nece s sary outfits so far as horses harness and men. I wish to know what is requisite in order that 3'ou commence the prosecution of the above. Do you require a remittance or will you draw drafts as fast as disbursements are required? The amt. of responsibility will be from 3 to 4000^. An answer to the above I shall receive in Baltimore to the care of Mess. Wyeth & Norris. I further request that Wiggin Abbot may be supplyed with money to pay his expenses to Boston. He will come down the river with Mr Sublette and is directed to call on you. I also request that the suit in regard to the notes which Capt. Hill alledges I gave him may be defended. For all expenses which you may incur please draw on Chas Wveth directed as above. Yrs. &c N. J. W. LXXXIX. Steam Boat Oct. 4th 1833 Dear Sir. W^hen at the Station above I paid the small draft which I had before given Doct. Fellows on you. I leave with this at Mr Aliens a small ]>undle of clothes for Abbot. Yrs &c N.J. W. To E. M. Samuel F:sq Liberty Mo. P. S. Mr Aull sayn he is willing to swear that Johnson when he brought him the note in question expressed himself uncertain 128] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 71 when he got it also that he saw the freight paid. Could not the testimony be used? XC. Steam Boat Mo. River Nov. 4th[Oct. 4th] 1833 Fred. Tudor Esq. (Boston) Dear Sir Since my last from Colm. River of Jany i6th, I have made my way to this place on boat below Fort Ivcavenworth and make haste to inform you of the same. I shall probably stop a few days in Balto. Philad. and N York and will not probably arrive at home sooner than the lOthNov. Expect- ing so soon to see you there is little to write further than to say that I have arrived in good health and spirits, and that nothing w^ould give me more pleasure than to receive a letter from you at Baltimore. Should you have any buisness to transact on my route to Boston I should be glad to serve you in any way you may direct. [No signature.] XCI. Steam Boat Mo. River Oct 4th 1833 Mess. Tucker & Williams and HenrA^ Hall Esq. (Boston) Gent. I write merely to apprise you of my arrival so far as this. I shall be in Boston about the loth next month when I shall be able to confer [on] matters of buisness [better] than by letter. I receiv^ed your letter of 19th Dec. t833[2] through Mr Sublette on the heads of the Colorado of the West, and can hard- ly express the pleasure that it gave me. Yrs &c N. J. W. XCII. St. Eouis Oct. 9th 1833 Mr. E. M. Samuel, ( Eiberty Missouri Enclosing his order on Ed. Tracy of St. Eouis for 200$) Dear Sir I arrived here to day. Above you have your order for 200^ not used. I shall put the buisness of the counterfeit note into the hands of one of the gentlemen named in your memo. My respects to your good lady and Mr. More and my thanks to yourself for the many attentions you have showni me I am yr obt. Servt. N. J. W. XCIII. St. Louis Oct. 9th 1833 Mr. M. G. Sublette (at St. Louis) Dear Sir According to prom- ise I write but can say nothing farther than when with you. You may depend on the contract or the bond, and you will hear from me within 9 weeks stating possitively which. I Iqgve this place 72 CORRESPONDENCE: [129 for Louisville to morrow and shall write you directed to the Post of- fice here. If j^ou write to me direct to Cambridge Masstts care of Mr.Jas. Brown. Yr Obt Ser\^t. N. J. W. XCIV. St Louis Oct 9th 1833 Mr M. G. Sublette (Left at TownsL?] Hotel St Louis) You will find a letter in the Post Office for vou. Yrs &c X. J. \\\ xcv. Cincinati Oct 17th 1^33 (To Genl. Harrison ) (present) vSir The enclosed I received from your son on the Big Horn. I met him on Green River on the Color- ado of the West and was with him some 20 days. He is in good health and told me that he should remain in the Indian countr\' through the winter. He has taken an outfit from Fitzpatric & Co of some few horses and men for the trapping buisness. It would have afforded me much pleasure to have delivered the note in person but haste prevents. &c X. J. W. XCV I. Baltimore Oct 2it]i 1S33 Sir (London) In answer to a letter which I wrote to you from Fort Colvill dated March 12th 1S33I received information that the said letter had been transmitted to you. I request that an answer may l)e sent to Mess Cripps & Wyeth Merchts X. York which will be in season as I arrived too late to proceed to the Columbia by vessell this year. I have made a contract for the delivery of a quantity of goods to Mr. Sublette and Mr. Fitzpatric partners under the stile of the Rock}^ Mountains Fur Co. Shou[l]d 3'our Co. make the agreement which I propose I would fulfil the contract with the R. M. F. Co. goods from the States and hand over the furs re- ceived at Walla walla or Vancouver and the furs so delivered to be in lieu of the security which is proposed in my letter to 3'ou as above. (To Geo Simson Esq. or the Gov. or Agent of the Hon. Hud- sons Bay Co. London) I am yr. obt. Servt. Xath J Wyeth XCVII. Baltimore Oct 26th 1S33 Bro. Leond. (Xew York) Will you have the goodness to call[on] Mr. Alfred Seaton and ask him if in case two small drafts made i3o] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 73 b}' Bonneville & Co. aint. about $416 and which on my arrival at St. Louis I left for presentment to Mr.Cerry who brings down the returns of said Co. are not paid by said Cerry if he will pay the same. These drafts we[re] drawn on Mr Seaton and others at 60 days sight provided Mr Cerr^^ did not elect to pay them at St.L,ouis at sight. I shall await here the arrival of Charles, if I do not get notice from him that, he will remain long enough to see him in N.York. The enclosed letter I wish sent to England b}' the first convers- ance and if you think proper you can direct to the care of Mr Cripps or any one who will see it delivered as I am not quite cer- tain of the direction. Please seal it Yrs &c N. J. W. XCVIII. Baltimore Oct. 27th 1S33 Mr.Wm. H. Boardman (Boston) Sir Having to wait here a few dar'^s I enclose two letters which I received from Capt. McNeil on the Columbia. On my arrival I will do my self the pleasure to call on vou with a letter of introduction from Capt. McNeil I am &c N. J. W. XCIX. Baltimore Oct 28th 1S33 Old Jonas On board the Bg. Calo[?] Capt. Percival you will find 2 Indians one Trunk one rifle pair Elk Horns pacage of papers small bundle of cloths which please deliver at my house. The freight and passage is paid. She will sail about the ist Nov. vShall be with vou soon and am Yrs &c Nathl J Wyeth C. Cambridge Nov. 8th 1833 Mr Henry Hall and Mess Tucker and Williams Gent. In order to understand the nature of that branch of the Fur trade in which I propose to operate I deem it requisite to eater into a short account of its size and progress. The statements which I shall make are such as I have heard and am confident are in the main true, but I do not pledge my self that every circumstance is so but only that I have heard them and believe them to be so and that the inferences are such as my best attention to the subject warrant. About 1 2 years since Mr Wm H. Ashley engaged in the Indian trade essaying by various means to obtain furs. At the time he engaged in this undertaking he was bankrupt, but was a person of credit, which enabled him to get the requisite means. His first attempts were predicated vipon the possibility of trading furs from 74 CORRESPONDKNCE: [131 the Indians in the interior for goods. In this he was not success- ful, and in the event became much reduced in means, and credit, but in the course of this buisness perceived that there was plentA' of Beaver in the country to which he had resorted for trade, but great difficulty to induce the Indians to catch it. After many tr}'als of trading voyages he converted his trading parties into trapping parties. In the first establishment of this buisness he met with all the usual difficulties incident to new plans but still made something. About this time a Mr. Gardner one of his agents met a Mr. Ogden clerk of the H. K. Co. in the Snake Country at the head of a trapping party. Gardner induced the men of Og- dens party to desert by promises of supplyes, and good prices for furs. The furs thus obtained amounted to about 130 packs or 13000 lbs. worth at that time about $75000. The following year Ashley sold out to Smith Sublette & Jackson for about ,$30000 and left the buisness, after paying up his old debts, worth about 50000$. Smith Sublette & Jackson continued the buisness until 1829 and sold out to Milton Sublette Frapp Jervais Bridger and Thomas Fitzpatric, and in the stile of the Rocky Mountain Fur Co. for 30000$, dividing among them about 60000$ for I think three 5'ears buisness. This last firm has continued the buisness since have paid the purchase money and have cleared their stock of goods and animals requisite for the buisness in the country but not be- ing buisness men and unknown where the goods are to be bought have been dependent upon others fortheirsupLpJliesfor which they have paid enormously to Mr.Wm. L.Sublette brother to a member of their firm. They have been together three years and have made two returns amounting to 210 packs of furs, value nett about 80000$ and received two outfits of goods, first cost about 6000$ for which the}' have paid about 30000$ and for returning their furs about 8000$ leaving them after paying the first purchase about 12000$ some of which must be due to men who have not received their pay in goods leaving them with little property ex- cept their Horses Mules and Traps and a few goods, and un- available property-. Since the commencement of this species of buisness severall persons have attempted it, but all are now out of the way except Mess Dripps & Fontenelle fitted out by the Am. Fur Co. and Mess. Bonneville & Co. fitted out by men in New York. Neither of these last named Companies as far as I can ascertain have made money to any great extent, owing to enormous prices paid for goods. The country to which these parties resort is ex- tensive and there is plenty of room for them and many more, and if they made a little money, I do think if proper means are used that much could be made. After this short account of the present state of the buisness i proceed to sum up the expense of conduct- ing it, as it is now done, in order to shew where a saving mav be 132] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 75 made. I shall omit saying any thing about duties on coarse woolens and other goods, used in this trade, which have to be paid when goods are sent by waj^ of St. Louis and which may be saved when sent around the Horn. The dry goods for an overland trip are best found in New York and the other articles in St. Louis. A small charge must be ad- ded for transport to St. Louis for those bought in N.York, say on 4000 lbs. including Ins. & Sundrys $ 160.00 Baling of the above and Sundrys bought at St. Louis.. 100.00 50 pack saddles and 50 Riding Do 250.00 Hobbles and Halters for 100 animals 1 50.00 Shoeing for 100 animals 50.00 Corn and sundry for Horses 50.09 Saddle Blankets 100.00 50 men for 5 months at 15 per month 3750.00 Provisions to Bufifaloe 100.00 Pack covers 50.00 Am[m]unition 100.00 100 animals 3000.00 Guns 300.00 First cost of goods 3000.00 vSix months interest on all charges except wages 222.00 11382.00 being the Cost of transporting goods (including the first cost) of the value of $3000 from St. Louis to the Trois Titons Long 1 10 deg. west Latt. about 43, Air line distance 900 miles. In making an estimate of the cost of transporting the same amt. of goods from the head of navigation on the Columbia I shall make the difference in time and force required which from some knowledge I think just and also cost of Harness and Horses. 50 pack Saddles and 15 riding do to be bought of the Inds for about 25 cts. ea in goods 17.00 Halters and Hobbles for 65 animals 17.00 Buffaloes for blkts 30.00 1 5 men for 4 months at 1 5 per month 900.00 Provisions 100.00 Pack covers 50.00 Amunition 25.00 Guns 90.00 65 animals at $5 ea 325.00 F'irst cost of goods 3000.00 $4554.00 76 CORRESPONDENCE: [133 Interest for 10 months on all charges except wages of men 182.00 $4736.00 being a difference of $6646.00 in fav of transporting goods from the first rapids on the Columbia to the Trois Titons Long no deg. west, Latt. 43deg X. (and 400 miles air line) over and above vSt. Louis. I have assumed a calculation of $3000.00 because I have con- tracted to supply that amt. of goods as per the enclosed copy of contract and not because it is all that is required for the interior. The amt. now consumed in the section of country with which I am conversant is about 12000.00$ first cost in N York. Wheth- er in the end I could supply all goods wanted may l>e a question and of which you can j udge as well as myself, but that men can be employed to trap beaver and paid as far as their wants require in goods the same as is now done I feel not the least doubt and to almost any extent, and that it can be done to a profit is proved by the fact that the buisness is one of great profit even as it is now conducted from St. Louis. I shall now detail what I think may be done in order to get the goods wanted to the Columbia and the Furs home in such manner as that no part of the expense of the vessell maj' be charged to them. Salmon have been brought from the Columbia to Boston and I think sold for about $16 per bbl. but I believe in not the best order which I suppose arose from their having been caught too long before they were salted. This I was told by persons who saw them put up. And if salmon are traded from the Indians there will always be some difficulty in this respect, but if salmon will bring $12 per bbl. they will pay all the ex- penses of the vessell and leave a large allowance for the expenses of the post, at which they are caught. I make no doubt that enough could be taken when once the proper mode is adopted, but I have not been on the Columbia below the first rapids in the vSalmon season, and should feel doubtfull as to the expediency of ordering out a vessell before I have made a thorough examination at the proper time of year. While there last winter I sounded the bottom to ascertain [the] depth on the fishing grounds and if the bottom was clear of snaggs and rocks and found it favorable. I have every confidence when the proper mode is known and adopted that this branch of the buisness will pay all the expenses of the vessell and leave the fur trade free from all charges in the shape of freight. The prominent advantages of supplying my own or the trapping parties of other concerns from the Pacific instead of vSt. Louis are saf[e]ty of the country traversed, and con- sequent solving of men, shortness of distance, and low price and abundance of Horses on the Columbia. The latter circum- stance alone would enable any compans' doing their buisness by 134] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 77 that route to make a proffit equal to all expenses of transporting. The Horses in the mountains are brought from St. lyouis chiefly, and cost about $30, and when 5^ou consider that a trapping party uses 3 at least to a man this alone is a large and con- tinual saving in the buisness. I will now proceed to state what I propose to do if I can find the means, and for the security of such persons as shall furnish me, I can give such names as I believe would be satisfactory. These names I will bring forward at the proper time. The enclosed contract was made with Mr. Fitzpatric and Mr. Sublette of the Rocky Mountain Fur Co. when I was in doubt whether I would be able to perform it but knew I would be able to pay the de- fault. The contract as you will perceive will amt. to little more than carrying me into the Indian country free of expense and procuring the buisness of a verj' efficient concern, in this light I hold it to be valuable. I propose to fulfill this contract. This done if the Rocky Mountain Fur Co will sell me their remaining furs at such rate as I can make money or will pay me for transporting them to St. Louis I will fit out a party sufficient to send them down with all other furs then on hand. That the}' will do so I believe because if I supply them with goods no other party will be there to do it, and they will not have the means of doing it themselves in the country. If they should not do so, then I will proceed to a safe country on the Columbia River where some furs may be traded and there leave them with a few men leaving some men and a trusty person to keep them and trade as many more as he can. The residue of my party (their apparatus having been brought out at the same time with Sublettes goods) will be emploj^ed in the trapping buisness. During the last of the salmon season of 1834 I will be on the Columbia in order to see in what mode the Salmon may be taken in such quantity as will do for a vessell and also endeav- or to make returns by some vessell that may happen to be there. If no such opportunity should occur then the furs must either re- main in the country until a vessell can come out to receive them such vessell bringing apparatus salt bbls. &c for taking home a cargo of salmon and bringing also goods to supply the parties or when the first outfit is exhausted the whole return, and afterwards com- mence the undertaking by sea. In the mean time a proposal has been made to the H. B. Co. to supply goods in the country and receive the furs as per the enclosed copy of proposition.* Should I have no partners in this buisness I might in case of their [H.B.Co's] acceding to it deem it for my interest to close with them, if I had part- ners I should probably not. Should you agree to give me the requi- site supplys and I should afterwards close with them then 3'ou shall be entitled to your commissions the same as though the af- *See copy of proposition in connection with No. LXXIII, p. 58. yS CORRESPONDENCE: [i35 fairs passed through your hands. Should you join me as part- ners you will of course exercise your judgement in regard to it, but I have no expectations that the Co. will accede to it and made it with a view to get their ideas on the subject as much as with any expectation that they would close with me. In case you agree to supply me for commissions and Interest the amt. wanted will not be far from 8 to 10,000$ and wanted some b}' the first of January and from that to ist March and in any case the cash would be required at the same period but the amt might be varied if 5^ou took partnership according to your views but I deem the smallest investment the best u:itiJ more ex- perience is obtained. I will in conclusion observe that I consider all the coast and country North of the Columbia completely occupied b^' the luig- lish, and all east of the mountains by the Americans. From these countrys I expect nothing, but all that country lying south of the Lewis Fork of the Columbia and west of the mountains as far south as the settled parts of the Mexican territorj^ is j-et unex- plored or nearly so. Into this section of country I have been, and have myself taken more than a pack of beaver in less than a month, and the furs of this region are excellent from their color, and goodness, and without doubt are reasonably abundant. One reason why this countrv' has l)een so much neglected is that in it there are no Buffaloe, and hunters cannot live in the luxury that they like. Still with good economy food enough may be found from the beaver. Elk, deer, and goat, of which there are some. Ot- ter are plenty and good. Furs in this countrj^ would be good ex- cept about three months in the summer and by approaching the sea coast where the climate is warmer the hunt might continue all winter and thus add a great amt. to the years hunt without adding an}' thing to the expense. & &c N. J. W. Enclosing copy of contract with Fitzpatric and Sublette and proposal to the Hon. H. B. Co. CI. Cambridge Nov loth 1833 Bro Leond. (N York) Enclosed you have a note against Wyeth & Norris [for] Three Hundred and Sixt}^ Five dollars which please place to my ace. and forward me the same in order that I may give you my note for the balance which is all I caii do for the present. Am now in treaty with Mess. Tucker & Williams and as soon as the result is known I will write you fully. All well here and the wills destroyed at my request. Yr Afte Bro. N. J. \V. 136] WYRTH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 79 CII. Cambridge Nov. nth 1833 Mess. Editors Haying while on a recent visit to the Columbia Received much attention and kindness from the English Traders there I deem it a duty to express my gratitude for the same, more es- pecially as I am frequently asked the question if I was never iiiolested by them. By all their acts toward myself I am fully convinced that all persons who from any cause may come into contact with them will receive honorable and gentlemanly treat- ment. Among the many to whom I am under obligation I wish to name Chief Factors John McEaughlin and Finlinson, Chief Trader Francis Horon, Mr. Francis Ermatinger and Mr. Pam- brun. Among the American Traders I have received much at- tention from Mr. Mckenzie and Mr. Laidlow of the Am. Fur Co and Mr. Wm. E. Sublette. To all the above gentlemen I tender my thanks Yr. Obt. Servt. Nathl J Wyeth. cm. Cambridge Nov. loth 1833 Bro. Jacob (Galena Mo") Having arrived here I take the first oppor- tunity to forward your account in order that it may be settled while I am at home which is the more easy as there appears to be little difference between us. The horse which you took in the mountains was charged to me by the Co. at 75$ but in your ace. I charge just enough to make balance between us. Int. is so nearly even that I say nothing about it. $150 is credited by me to you because thatamt. which I took of Mess. Norris & Wj^eth in Baltimore is charged to you in your ace. with them which should have been charged to me. The $94.50 in your ace. is cash paid for 'medicines and money lent at various times. The $40 is the'amt. which I paid the Pacific Trading Co. as per your agree- ment with them. Will you have the goodness to forward me as soon as possible yovir ace. against me, that is just reverse the Dr. and Cr. sides of the annexed receipt and forward it by mail, also please let me know how you are doing. All well here. Nudd was killed last winter in the mountains, and Trumbull died at Vancovtver on the Columbia. All else well as far as I know. Yr Afte Bro. N. J. Wyeth CIV. Cambridge Nov loth 1833 Mess. Joseph Baker & Son (Boston) (This letter sent also to W. H. Boardman) Gent The following has been collected from the clerks of the H. B. Co. during tay sta^- west of the mts. and al- So CORREvSPONDENCK: [i37 tho not very definite may serve to show what opposition s'ou may expect from them. It has been gathered from so many persons that I am inclined to think that its truth may be reHed on. Yr Obt. Servt. N. J. W. An occasional post on the Umquou River in about Latt. 42 deg. Fort George, or Astoria renewed about 1830 and to l>e kept up. A Fort at Fraizers River which emtys into Pugets Sound about 30 miles up the river. It is contemplated to move this post to the coast and a little south of the river. A Fort south of Nass to be established this year. A Fort how established at Xass. A Fort north of Nass to be established this year To be kept on the Coast Bg. Ivima Capt. McNeil " Dryad " Kipling '■' Kadboro " Sinclair Sell. Vancouver " Duncan to be launched in June. CV. Cami>ridge Nov. i2ih 1S33 Bro. Perry (Newburg Vt. ' I arrived home on 6th inst. in good health and spirits and am very l)uisy in making arrangements for another trip. I hope to get men the next time who will stick to me. On arrival I found all w^ell and much the same as when I left. It would afford me much pleasure to see you this winter but I do not think it possible for me to spare the time required for a visit to your place. I regret to find that a deserter of mine has teen publishing lies in some paper near you. Much that he says can be contradicted but would operate as an expo- sure to yoving Livermore which I would wish to avoid on ace. of his parents. It appears to me that the letters of Bell go at least to shew that he was guilty of Horse stealing and if his character is much knowm to your vicinity his statements will meet with little credit, and will not require from me any notice in fact I have nei- ther time nor inclination to go into such a subject with such a fellow. Please give me your Ideas on this matter. You gave me a letter to a gentleman at the Sandwich Islands. This I sent by a vessell bound there. My journey to the Pacific was attended by vers- few of those romantic adventures or terrible sufferings or privations supposed to be incident to such journeys. I do not think I have ]>een without food for two whole days together and from cold we suf- fered nothing. I have not read Mr. Balls letters but suppose they will give a pretty fair idea of the country and journey for I believe him to l>e a man of veracity and not inclined to exagerate. John Wyeths book is one of /////c /ies told for gain. I hear with regret that vou have lost voi\r second child and with 138] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 8i pleasure that you have a new daughter. Be assured that I sim- pathise in your pains and pleasures. If 5'-ou wish I will send you the letters of Mr. John Ball from the Columbia and a review published in a periodical edited by Mr. Welland in this town of John Wyeths Book these two w^ould if pub- lished in some of your papers probably convince those who have read Bells letters that there is room for doubt at least. I shall write to S. K. Livermore but consider him entitled to no explanation from me on ace. of his having consented to have public letters from a deserter and thief to be addressed to him when I could not answer and calculated to make an injurious impression against me, which when the subject had once passed from the public mind it was impossible to alter. Please give my respects to your good wife and family and be- lieve me ^ Yr Aft Bro. N. J. W. CVI. ["Not Sent" written across the face.] Cambridge Nov. 13th 1833 S. K. Livermore Esq. Sir I have returned to Cambridge and find that during my absence publick letters have been addressed to you in answer to a call from you to the writer for information concerning the desertion of your son from my part}^ Now I do not object to your right to enquire into a matter which so nearly concerns 3-our family, but I do object to your right to publish, or of aiding or abetting the publishment. This I conceive you have done. Had I been in the countr}^ at the time the case would have been different. The injury is now done and thous- ands have read the slander who can never see the answer, even if I should make one which I am not disposed to do. Had you made only private enquiries I should have considered myself bound to give you information on the subject at the first oppor- tunity, and then you would if you thought fit have had a right to publish what you pleased, but as it is I do not think myself bound to go into the subject with you. My case has by you been tried and the result at your instigation published. No opportu- nity was given me to explain in the case. I consider myself treated with injustice and until these things are differently ex- plained to me or I should see them in a different aspect, the friendl)" relations in which we have heretofore been are broken. I am Your obt. Servt Nath. J. Wyeth CVll. Cambridge Nov 12th 1833 Iye[o]nd Jarvis Esq. (Baltimore) Dear Sir I have called as a^ou requested to see about a shawl to be sent to Vermont. It has been forward- S2 CORRESPONDENCE: [139 ed but so lately that there had not been time for you to hear of it. I am much engaged at this moment in endeavoring to make arrangements to return to the Indian CountrA^ and think I shall succeed. In the mean time I have offers in the ice buisness from Mr. Tudor more than equal to anything I left and shall close [\\nth him] in case I am unable to succeed in the other project. If 3-0U will advise me in regard to answering or not answering the calumnies and lies which have appeared since I left, I will take your advice but if thej'- do not do me much hurt except with strangers I am strongly inclined to saj^ nothing. Two reasons induce to this that my time is too much occupied is one. An- other is that some exposures of character of near relatives might be the consequence and generally in such matters the character of the individuals at last govern the public belief. I ask your advice. I found all well here and now I have been here a few days I am tired. There is little to interest. I have nothing to do except making preparations to go and I begin to wish them done that I may be off. Please give my respects to my good aunt. Wife likes her dress much and I am getting my pants, made up. As soon as I can conclude what I shall do I shall write you in full. Yr Afte Nephew N. J. W. CVIII. [No address or date. ] To Mr. Henr>' Hall and Mess. Tucker & Williams (Boston) Gent. Agreeable to arrangement I make the following pro- posal, viz You to furnish what capital is wanted to fulfil m^^ contract with Sublette & Co. and the sum wanted in order to send a ves- sell to the Columbia river with goods for the Fur trade and ma- terials for the salmon fishery^ Interest to be charged and credited before any dividend of profits you being entitled to commissions on buisness done here 2^ per ct on disbursements 2^ per ct Sales and guarantee and being at the risk of the ultimate loss of the buisness if any should occur. I will then engage in the buis- ness for such time as may be agreed on you being bound as well as myself to continue the buisness during such time and make the requisite disbursements, myself having the entire control of the buisness in the Indian country and on the Pacific. Under the above terms I will engage in the undertaking for twenty five per ct. of the profits that ma}^ accrue. The risk I run is of any remuneration except there should be profits. Yrs &c N. J. W. i4o] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 83 CIX. Cambridge Nov 19th 1833 Mess Von Phull & McGill (St. I^ouis) Gent The enclosed dupli- cate is of much importance. I have sent it to you in order to be certain that Mr. Milton G. Sublette will receive it, and you will much oblige me by putting it into his hands if possible, otherwise send it by as certain a conveyance as you can find. I request that you will be careful to avoid passing it through the hands of his brother Wm, L,. Sublette. If the small demands which I gave you against Mr. Cerry are paid please inform me of the same if they are not, on the receipt of this, please forward them to Mess Cripps & Wyeth New York. In this last case I will in the spring call on you and pay the charges that have been incurred, or you can ask them of Mr. E. M. Samuel of Liberty Mo. (Inclosing the following letter to M. G. Sublette.) (Duplicate) Original sent to Sublette. Mr. M. G. Sublette Sir This is to inform you that I am now ready to fulfil the contract made with Mr. Fitzpatric and yourself on the 14th Augt 1833 at Big Horn River and to request that you will as soon as possible come to N. York where I will meet you. If by letter you inform me when you will be there please use this letter as an introduction to my Brother of the firm of Cripps and Wyeth Pearl St. N York importers of Lace goods, and leave with him directions where you may be found. I particu- larly wish to see you soon as I am about dispatching a vessell round Cape Horn to the mout[h] of the Columbia and would if possible wish to make contract to supply your Co. the following 3'ear. I am &c. Nath. J. Wyeth ex. Cambridge Nov 20th 1833 [The "20th" is written over a "17th".] Bro. Leond. (N. York) As requested I enclose note to St. Felix [for] $768.50 but not payable to his order. If this is wrong I will alter. I shall endeavor to have the matter settled as 3^ou propose in regard to what may be still due me from the estate. The proposal in your letter of nth inst. I deem impracticable and shall not attempt. I am offered much better than when I left off by Mr. Tudor who importunes me much to stay. He has made $40000 — since I left which includes two years buisness. This is in the ice, not including coffee on which I do not think he will realize much. In a few days I shall know certainly what I shall do and will then write you fully. 84 CORRESPONDENCE: [1411 Tell the little ones that I shall send by the first opportunity some small books for them. Perhaps I shall be in N. York soon. Keep me as well informed as possible of any variation that may take place in furs this in order to appear at home on the subject. Yr. Afte. Bro. N. J. \\\ CXI. [No address.] Nov 17th 1S33 Mess. J. Baker & vSon Gent Below you have an estimate of the furs brot. in by the way of St. Louis for 1832 and 3. I have marked those which I have seen. The rest are from information which is as nearly correct as is requisite -for your purpose. These furs are Beaver and otter, L,and, about 1-20 of the latter. I am Yr. obt. vServt. Nathl J Wyeth 90 packs from St. Fee Seen- 30 Am. Fur Cos. party in the Mts. under Dripps and Fontenelle Seen- 140 Rocky Mt. Fur Co. brot home by Wm. L. Sublette 1 20 Traded by the Am. Fur Co. at their posts on the Mis- souri ( Astors Co. ) 380 packs of 100 lbs. ea. f 832. Seen- 62 Am. Fur Cos. party under Dripps and Fontenelle in Mts. Seen- 61 Rocky Mtn. Fur Co brot home by Wm. L. Sublette Seen- 30 Bonneville & Co brot home by Cerry to Alfred Seaton N. York. 90 Am. Fur Co Traded at their posts on the Missouri 60 probably from St. Fee returns not made when I left St. Louis. 303 The above are nearly all that rame into the western States From the Arkansas and the Mis.sissippi few Beaver are brot and whatever the quantit}- may be it must decrease yearly. CXII. Boston Nov. 20th 1S33 To Geo. vSimson Esq Sir Since my last from Baltimore dated Oct. 26th 1S33 I have ascertained that there was still time to forward a vessel! to the Columbia to reach there by first of the salmon season and a vessell is now in a state of forwardness for this pur- pose, consequently all further negotiations for the present are at an end in regard to this subject. Had I been sure that you would have accepted I would have entered into no other arrangement but uncertain of this I could not let the opportunity pass. I re- gret that T have troubled you so much in this matter. I am Yr. Obt. Servt. Nathl. J. Wyeth 142] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 85 Supplement to letter of 20th inst. to I^eond I Wyeth N.York [No. CX] enclosed in same sheet at same time viz To day the thing is closed, the vessell to be sent round the Horn at once. In the concern I have no risk further than I take stock. Have the full management out there and one fourth of all profits. I take one eighth of the stock yi still open. Stock 20000$ they to provide for the remaining }^ if no one offers on my part. Tis a bad bar- gain but the best that I could do. I shall be in N. York soon. Please forward the accompanying letter by the first Packett. Yr afte bro. N. J. W. CXIII. Cambridge Nov 20th 1833 Bro. Charles (Baltimore) It is now a matter settled that I go again to the Pacific. A concern is made up here to invest $20000. I have for m}^ services one quarter of all profits and no risk. So far I have the liberty of taking one quarter of the stock. I have taken one eighth there is still one eighth open which the partners here provide for in case I do not meet it. I am to have the entire control of the buisness in the Indian Country and on the Pacific. I shall give up all your liabilities. No new ones will be asked of you but you must give |iooo before the ist March. If you can do this my }i is provide [d] for. Please give me your answer soon, and let it be yes. Shall be in N.York soon and will write you at w^hat time in order to meet you there if you can come. Yr. Aft. Bro. N. J. W. CXIV. Cambridge Nov 31th 1833 I^eond Jarvis Esq (Ba[l]to.) Dear Uncle On my return from a journey eastward I found your very acceptable fav. of 17th inst. In regard to the matter on which I asked advice I am happy to find that we agree. I did not ask your advice because I had any doubts as to the best course to pursue but because it was a matter in which the feelings of my friends vv^ere more concerned than my own. Had you advised different your advice would have been followed because I think one who has done so much for the re- spectability of his family has a right to be consulted in such mat- ters. You say to all whose opinions you value on proper occa- sions vindicate your self. I value j^our good opinion much and will therefore explain a few circumstances of which Bells letters treat. John Wyeth tells many /zV//^ lies butthe^^ are of not much consequence. In Bells first letter to S. K. Livermore he says "One landing was at Point Comfort. Here our Captain was determined to make up lost time, and accordingly treated himself and 86 CORREvSPOXDEXCR: [143 some of the company very liberally to champaigne and the usual effects of intemperate drinking succeeded." I deny none of these facts, but I denj' the intended inference. Some of the men were worse of what the}' drank and Bell much more drunk than any other. If Bell had told that he threw a handkerchief full of eggs from the pier into the boat, or that I ste[e]red the boat to the vessell through a thick fogg about three miles with nothing to guide me but the stars he would have told the truth and the inference would have been somewhat plainer who "'exhibited the effects of in- temperate drinking". Beside this it is nonsense to suppose I had any lost time to make up. If I had had such a strong disposition to loose no time in drinking I might have carried a plenty of liquor with me. The fact that I carried some shews that there was no very strong desire for it. The facts out of which this ver\' pop- 7ilar story was made are these. After a long and squall)^ voyage during which most of the men had been sea sick and had lived YQxy poor on salt beef ayid pork, we anchored off old Point Comfort and I went ashore with some five or six of the men to procure some oysters eggs &c. I ordered a supper for those with me and after supper I think two Bttles of Champagne and one of Made[i]ra were drank and I believe some ardent spirit. Afterward the landlord treated to some more I presume on ace. of the novel- ty'' of the Enterprise or some slight acquaintance with mj-self. Having got what stores I could for those on board and seeing that the frolic had gone far enough I returned on board with no more wine in VQ.y head than I have carried fromi your table. The an- swer to what Bell sa^^s of promises about purchase of Horses is all a lie. I never verbally or otherwise engaged to make other provis- ion than what I might deem suitable and proper. All discression in this matter was reserved to myself by agreement, and the fact that they started is proof, that I did not. Can one man com- pel 24 men to go with him against their will, and would the men have started if I had broken my promises in the manner stat- ed, or would they have gone at all if the equipment was evident- ly insufficient. The fact is that no other idea was ever held up to them except that of marching. If this was not the case why did they march across the Aleganys. S. K. Livermore well knows this, for with him I corresponded on the subject of Thomas learning music for marching and in my letters to him dated Jan^^ 23d & Feb 6th 1S32 of which I have copy he will have the same expressed, the same in regard to hunting dresses &c. Tis alia lie that I made any promises on these subjects. The agreement states that the party shall be provided in the usual way and man- ner of trading parties, and this I can prove. Bell states that Weeks expressing a determination not to go I compelled him by putCtJing him under arrest and afterward let him oif on pacing over to me all the money he had, and adds "leaving him almost 144] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 87 destitute of means to accomplish his return" he might have said qidte^ if the first part of the statement was true. The facts were these. The day before I left the last of the set- tlements I sent John Wyeth with a yoke of oxen and some sheep out to horse guard. He returned near night stating that the sheep strayed, and that he tied the oxen, and went after them, but when he returned they had broke loose and he could nowhere find them. I suspected all was not right, and sent a man to the place with John. This man returned and told me that John could shew no place where cattle had been tied, such place he would have known by the tracks (before morning they [were] found tied in a different direction) About this time Thomas lyiver- more told me that Johns gun was not in camp. I had the men called to arms. When it was discovered that Weeks and John Wyeth had no equipments the}^ we[re] called upon to pro- duce them, and refused. I put them under guard, and a short time afterward Weeks offered to go and get them, and while out attempted to escape from the man sent with him, but finally produced the equipments. In the morning the Compan^^ was called together. I stated to them that I had no power to release any of the parties to our compact, that in regard to John he be- ing a minor having been put under my charge by his father and having no means of satisf^dng the concern for the expenses in- curred on his ace. I should carry him on, but this I would pro- pose that Weeks should be released provided that he would in- demnify for expenses incurred by the concern over and above what he had paid in. This passed by a vote according to form, and by vote also it was provided that he might be released b}^ paying $40 and keep his cloths and equipments, which were Co, propert}^ This Weeks at first refused to do. I then told him that he should go if I tied him to the tail of a horse. Soon after he paid the $40 and was released. The whole buisness was done by vote of the Co. and at the time recorded by the clerk of the same. Now if the Co. as Bell says had been deceived and abused could one man have exercised such control over them. The fact is that the Co. generally felt much insenced at this attemp[tj at desertion and secconded me fully and strongl}^ in punishing it. The companion of Bells desertion, was the person who informed against those fellows viz. Livermore. In regard to the arbitrary conduct during the twelve days which Bell remained with me after this, I have only to say that I expected implicit obedience to my orders and was determined to enforce it at all hazards. Notice was given that those who lagged behind would be put on guard. They lagged to get rid of some work which is always to be done immediately on reaching camp, and those who avoided this labor I thought ought of right to make compensa- tion b}^ doing some other. Jacob was once put on guard for this 88 CORRRSPONDKNCE: [145 offence. Livermore might have been but I do not reccollect it. It was the buisness of any one sick or disabled to report himself to the Doct. and after examination he was entitled [to] and re- ceived any indulgence that the circumstances of the party would allow. Livermore complained of his feet once. I required to ex- amine them, he refused and said his word was enough. I did not think so, and required him to do the same duty as the others, I had before experienced much impudence from Livermore. He at one time told me, I lied. I told him to prepare himself to re- turn home from the next landing for that he should go no fur- ther with me. Before we got to the next landing he came and expressed a willingness to go before the whole Co. and make an apology. After this the matter was overlooked. His conduct was always bad. The night before we left Boston he and Bell were out all night and said they slept at a friends in Boston. When we arrived at Baltimore Bell had a clapp and this was the reason that he rode over the mountains at m.y expense. He takes care to tell none of these things and this was the tyranny to which he was subjected. Livermore spent on this trip beside the $50 which his father gave him for his outfit near $50 which he borrowed on various pretences of me, and something which you gave. ["Insert here the Postscript" is written across the beginning of the following paragraph.] The suggestions in your letter concerning famih' quarrels pre- vented me sending to Mr Livermore a letter which I had written not in anger but in a spirit of just rebuke for what I con- sider great meanness. I allude to his suffering a letter written to Bell to be published and Bells letters to be addressed to him. If these things were done without his consent he should have dis- claim[ed] them, but he has aided in the dissemination of them and thereby made it a positive consent instead of an implyed one. I cannot overlook that as far as he is able he has assisted to get up an impression against me, when I had no chance to rebut it. If on the one hand I withhold an expression of my feelings for the course he has pursued on the other I shall withhold all explana- tions of things concerning which he might otherwise have en- quired. I have enquired for Kendal at the Stables and Taverns, he appears not to be known at either place. My impres- sion is favorable to him I hope he will turn out well, as much that you may get the suitable rew^ard of your exertions for him as for his ow^n good. In regard to my own plans I say that I would now entirely change my plan of life and as old as I am not deem success unatanable, could I once convince myself that my talents are as good as you seem to believe they are but in this matter everj^ man must judge of himself and make up his own mind as to what he is most fitted for. I have never al- lowed mA'self to abandon an}- serious project that I had formed. T46] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 89 Pursuant to this plan of life I have urged on from the beginning this western enterprise and I shall give it up only when I am convinced I am destitute [of] the means to pursue it. I have ob- tained the means of pursuing it and by relinquishing too much of the profit I have avoided responsibility be3^ond such extent as I am able to meet. Please give m^^ respects to m^- good aunt and accept for j^our- self the best wishes of — [Subscription written but crossed out.] Postscript inserted in the body of the letter. In regard to the fitness of the arrangements for the voyage There were purchased 34 animals. There were 19 loads of goods leaving 15 spare animals, beside two that were individual prop- erty and 24 persons started. I call all animals loaded with pro- visions spare ones becausLe] in less than 20 daj'S they would all be released from their loads. If the men had took good care of the animals they could have rode half of the way but instead of this they lost or stole two horses before they lef[t] the settlements. Livermore stole three and I killed one more in trying to overtake him. Beside this some who were fearful to go on and disliked to back out endeavored to ruin the expedition by ruining the horses. Tin pots and picketts have been found under the pack saddles and the backs of many of the animals were soon ruined and in conse- quence we were all on foot except the sick or disabled or those who were hunting. It is not true that I rode the day before lyivermore and others deserted. That day myself and Mr. Buck[?] went out to hunt on foot. This fact I distinctl}' recollect from having found a horse that da}'. The day that thej^ deserted I rode the newlj' found horse to hunt and being out of camp and able to go ahead of the party they were enabled to effect their intention, a thing they would not have dared attemp[t] had I been in camp. The provisions carried wdth the party wer[e] one chest Tea pepper and salt. Corn meal 450 lbs. Bacon one j^oke ox- en sixteen sheep this to last until we should reach the Buffa- loe country which we did in 22 davs. N J W cxv. Cambridge Dec 2d 1832 Bro Perry Your very acceptable fav. of 25th ulto is at hand. In regard to what I propose now I answer the same as at first viz. to make money out of the fur trade. So far I have lost some money and have gained some experience and hope yet to make out. Am now fitting out a Bg. to go round the Horn to Bring out some goods and bring home a cargo of Salmon, ist March next I shall go to St. Louis and start overland again with some goods which I have contracted to deliver to a concern in the mts. 90 CORREvSF'OXnEXCK; [147 with the furs received for these go [on] to the mouth of the Col- umbia and send them home by m^' Brig take the goods which she has brought out, and up again to the mountains exchange goods for furs employ residue of year in trapping Beaver until salmon season (having left men making barrels through the win- ter) This done another vessell comes b}' arrangement takes the salmon and collections of the year. I take of her more goods and so the same round again. I take across the land about 40 men hired at the west men here wall not do. I am of }^our opinion about Bells letters and shall not notice them. I have not written to S. K. lyivermore but consider his conduct as dishonorable. The letters were addressed to him by his consent, because he cir- culated them and has not said publicly that they had not his con- sent. I shall not give him an}' explanation in the buisness and consider he has forfeited all claim to it. If horse stealing is a crime anywhere it was under the circumstances that Bell and others did it. I would prosecute if it were not for Livermore. I had never an^- connection with H. J. Kelley farther than that I might have gone in company with him if he had gone in season but I had no view farther than trade at any time. I will not meet you half way. I wish to see the wife and young ones. I shall if I can possibl}^ find time come all the way and bring wife but this is uncertain. I have been East and go to N. York soon. After my Brig is off may have a little leisure time. The Review I can not send as I know of. If I do please send it back again as soon as you can as it will be a part of a sett. I mail this with all of Balls letters which I have and thev contain the whole I believe. Y &c N. J. W. • CXVI. Cambridge Dec 4th 1833 Mess vSamuel »& More Gent Enclosed you have an order on Mess. Von Phul and McGill vSt. Louis for whatever ballance may be due me with them. In pursuance of the plan about which I spoke to you you will oblige me by commencing to purchase mules and horses. The first I am most anxious to get. 60 of each at least will be wanted. As fast as you get the animals have them put under the charge of some suitable person and kept together. You will of course ex- ercise your j udgement whether in regard to the question the cost of buying now and feeding until spring will be more than purchas- ing at once when we want them, and whether we could collect so many animals at a moments warning. The amt. due me if draft has been paid from Mess. \"on Phul and McGill is about $400 on which please commence to pur- chase animals as you can meet with them cheap, and in the mean time please designate where we can place funds for further 148] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 91. purchase of these animals. N. York or N. Orleans will be con- venient to us. On this subject please address yourself to Mess. Tucker and Williams Boston. I am Yr Obt Servt N. J. Wyeth CXVII. Mess Von Phul & McGill Gent Any funds of mine which may be in your hands on the receipt of this please hand over to Mess Samuel and More of Liberty Missouri and oblige Yr Obt Servt Nathl J. Wyeth. Boston Dec 4th 1833 CXVIII. Cambridge Dec 9th 1S33 Mr Jas Worthington (Flonsante Co Missouri) Dear Sir I shall be going to the Mts. as earl}^ next spring as the grass will permit and shall be glad of your company with as man3^ persons as j^ou may have with you and such goods as j^ou may choose to carry. I shall have a vessell sail for the mouth of the Columbia in about ten days with goods and if j^ou should fol- low the buisness of Beaver catching I do not doubt that I could hereafter supply you with goods in the Mts. much cheaper than 3^ou could pack them up ^^ourself. You w411 know m^' movements from Mr. E. M. vSamuel of Lib- erty. In the mean time I remain Yr. Obt. Servt. N. J. Wyeth. If you write direct to Cambridge Massachusetts. CXIX. Cambridge Dec. 9th 1833 Bro. Charles (Baltimore) Your very acceptable fav. of the 26th ulto. is at hand and would have been answered sooner but I have been down East and could not. You say that 5^ou will let me have the $1000 dont fail me on any ace. as serious inconvenience would be the consequence. Your understanding of the foundation of the present expedition is correct. I can take no further risk than the one eighth. I may risk my life but will not risk loosing so much as that with health and industr5' I can retrieve m^^self. I will go the whole Hogg no further than this. I shall be in N. York soon but shall be there again in Febru- ary, and as you think it will not be convenient to 3'ou to see me there I will not expect to see you until Feb. I differ with you as to the notice in the Courier it is not sharp enough to cut. I have taken the advice of Mr. Jarvis and to all that has been said I shall answer nothing and shall let character determine mens minds. 92 correspoxden'cb:: [149 I have not the least reason to find fault with I^eonard and per- haps in the end he will be the better able to render assistance than now, and I am more In want of it. I have now many of- fers to take part in this enterprise over and above what I can use and all that makes it requisite for me to take any of the stock is to shew confidence in it. We have bought a fine new Brig and she is nearly ready for sea. In regard to the arrangement of the matters between Jonas and father I do not believe that I can better them. They are now on good terms and Father does not wish an^^ thing to be done. Quar- rel they will more or less under any circumstances. I do not think Jonas has done as well by the place as he could but he or any one else would have a hard task to prevent all mischief to the trees during times of hurr^^ Contrary to what you fear I found things as well here as such matters can well be after what has passed. I turn from home and friends only l;>ecause I have not yet done what I have undertaken. I have been ven,' buisy and cannot write you as much at length as I could wish but perhaps I shall be more at leisure after the vessell is off and do not be affronted if I serve my best friends worst. "Whom the Lord loveth hechasteneth." I have written a long letter to Mr.Jarvis on thesubject of the statements that have been made b}- the deserters and if Mr. Jarvis pleases he can shew it vou. Brother Perrv" advised me not to notice Bell at all, as his character would not entitle him to credit at home. Give my re- spects to your good wife. I am sorry for her complaint but can suggest no remed\'. Remind me to the little ones. I am Yr. Afte. Bro. N. J. Wyeth cxx. Cambridge Dec 9th 1833 Hon Lewis Cass. C Washtn) Dear Sir Accompanying you have an ititroductory note from Genl. Ashley. The object of addressing you is this. There are west of the Mts. many gentlemen and ser- vants of the Hudsons Ba^- Co who have Indian wives and fami- lies and who are desirous of retiring from active life but they can not well mingle in society as it is constituted in G. Britain or the U. States. They wish to locate themselves on the Wallammet or Multnomah River, a river coming from the south into the Colum- bia. The}' express themselves indifferent as to which Govt, they may come under. There are now on this river nine families of Trappers who have good farms. An answer to the following que- ries or an expression of opinion from so high a source in regard to them would be very acceptable to a class of men who are at a loss to know where they may best spend the remnant of lives of toil and danger. Viz TSt To what extent may they take upland. i5o] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 93 2d What price will be demanded pr acre if the Am. Govt, should take possession of the country. 3d Can they be sure that they will be allowed to keep posses- sion at anj^ price. 4th If they are not allowed to keep the land will an}^ allow- ance be made for improvements. I shall go early in the spring to the country west of the Mts. and would be pleased to communicate any assurance or opinion which you may do me the honor to give on this subject. I should be happy to impart any information of which I may be possessed to the Govt, if it is deemed desirable. With Great Respect I have the honor to be Yr Obt Servt. Nathl J Wyeth Hon Lewis Cass ) Secty. of War > Washington ) CXXI. Boston Dec loth 1S33 Mess. Thomas C. Rockhill & Co (Philad) Gent Above you have draft for Seventy Nine dollars and Seventy Five cents which please place to the Cr of Mess Samuel and More of Liberty Mo. of which please inform them and receipt for the same in my fav. to them and oblige Yr. Obt. Servt. N. J. Wyeth. CXXII. Cambridge Dec 12th 1833 Bro Leond. (N York) Yours of gth inst is received. In regard to calculations about vessell &c will run over them with you soon and personally. Good did quite right in regard to the draft which you say has been shewni you Drawn by Abbot fav. of Sublette & Campbell on M. G. Sublette to be charged to me. Abbot is much my debtor, has never had any authority to draw on me, but had authority to take up money of Mess. Samuel & More and Wyeth & Norrisand them only and of both he took up money and some more of me. When he arrived here two days since, he never mentioned to me any thing of this transaction. He is now gone. There must be something irregular in this buisness. A. has been gaming. I shall not pay unless some shadow of an obligation can be shewn why I should. I can conceive none which can be made to ap- pear in this case. I regret to say I have not seen Mr. Osgood and do not know where to find him otherwise should not fail to call and see him. 94 CORRESPONDKXCE: [151' I am waiting for Capt. Lambert who has gone to'see his family expect him every minute. When he comes shall leave directly for 3'our citv in order to purchase goods, and as you sav All well. ' X. J. Wyeth. CXXIIL X York Dec i8th 1833 Mess. Tucker & Williams Boston Gent Arrived here on the i6th I can find no callico shirts here. 200 are wanted which you had best set making as soon as possible. Figures are wanted but stripes will do if the other cannot be had. L,et the colors be bright and the stile gav. Yr Obt Servt. X J Wyeth CXXIV. X. York Dec. iSth 1S33 Mess. Tucker & Williams Boston Gent I have completed pur- chases all except scarlett cloths or stronds of which there are none in this place. You will have to pick up what you can to cost not more than 1.80 per yd. From 5 to 10 pieces must do. We cannot buy many at this rate. If nothing better can be found Scarlett Duffle must be used. One Bale Blue Am. sheetings one unbleached, still wanted. I do not find them here, so you can buy them if you can find them. I am >T. obt. Servt Xathl J W^-eth cxxv. X York Dec igth 1833 Mess. Tucker & Williams Boston Gent. I write to apprise you that no vessell can sail before Saturday for Boston which will give you a little more time. Still no scarlett stronds except about 2 pieces at 1.75 pr yd. Shall find amt. of bill in order to insure as soon as possible. Yrs &c X. J. \\'yeth [An illegible P, vS. of four words.] CXXVI. X. York Dec. 20th 1833 Mess. Samuel & Tvlore Gent, I am here purchasing goods to send round the Horn by a vessell, and have not 3'et had the time to make the arrangements proposed in your letter of Xov. 6th with Mess T. C. Rockhill & Co nevertheless you will oblige by pro- ceeding to purchase Horses and mules to an^^ extent you deem prudent not exceeding the directions contained in my letter of 4th inst. Also to engage 30 men to leave your covuitry in 152] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 95 last of April and first of May next and for 2 )^ years. Engage none but those you think good men. At my first opportunity on returning to Boston I willforwd, to you a form of agreement with the men and also complete an arrangement with Mess. R.ockhill & Co. by which funds will be placed to 3'our Cr. as' fast as you expend it in the purchase of animals. You can engage at the lowest possible rates 35 riding saddles (Spanish) These are for the men and should be of the cheap kind without an}- finer^^ about them, then 6 of a superior sort for lis gentlemen but still not expensive but good and plain. The residue of the harness I will have made here and bring it on Vv'ith me. I have to request that, if 3'ou can find Sublette, you will urge that he come here sooner than Feb. he ought to come at once and not leave the purchasing of his goods to the last minute. Write to him to this effect if you know where he is and represent to him that these goods .should leave N. York or Boston by the 20th Feb. in order to be at the upper settlements in time for an early start. I am &c N. J. Wyeth. CXXVII. N. York Dec 20th 1833 Mr. M. G. Sublette St Louis Dear Sir Not having heard from 3'ou since 3^our arrival and heard nothing of your intentions ex- cept from E. M. Samuel of Libert}- I write to urge you to come here immediatel)-. It is important that yow should select your goods in good season as yo\x will be able to do it much cheaper and get better kinds w^hen you have time to look about 3"Ou than when you are hurried, beside I am desirous of a spree with an old Monniaineer these folks here wont do. ^ly Brig will sail in a few da^^s for the Columbia with goods enough for an outfit for j'ou another year. Abbot passed this place a few days since. When you come to N. York call on Mess Cripps and Wyeth Pearl St. Please write me as soon as you can and inform me when you will start for this place. Yr &c X. J. W. CXXVIII. New York 21st Dec. 1833 Mess Tucker & Williams Boston Gent I leave this to da^^ in tlie steam Boat and will probably be with you Monday morning but for fear of accident write to inform [you] that I have purchased one small bale of Scarlett cloths of 10 pieces. This will obviate any necessity of your bu^dng at disadvantage as we can do with- out more of this article. Mr. Thomas informs me that he has purchaseLd] 5 Purcheons Rum being all he can find in this place entitled to Debenture. [Subscription written but crossed out.] 96 CORRESPONDENCE: [i53 CXXIX. Cambridge Jany. 2d 1834 Bro Leond, I have this minute received a letter from Mr Milton Sublette informing me that he leaves Pitsburgh on 26th Dec. for N. York. What I desire is that you induce him if possible to come at once to Boston, but if you cannot do this, you will have the goodCness] first to drop me a line to the care of Mess Tucker & Williams, and in the mean time if he is in great haste, let him commence selecting goods, in which please render him what assist- ance vou are able, making all 3'our purchases at 6 mos. and oblige Yr. bbt. Servt. Nathl J W3^eth Knlcosing copy of contract with Fitzpatric & vSublette. CXXX. Cambridge Jany 2d r833[4] Mr. M. G. vSublette Dear Sir Yr. esteemed fav of the 26 ulto. is at hand. I am at this moment much engaged in fitting out a ves- sell for the mouth of the Columbia. I have written to my broth- er to urge 3^ou to come at once to Boston as the gentlemen who are concerned with me are desirous of seeing 3'ou, but if haste renders this out of the question, I will come to N. York as soon as I know that you are there, of w^hich I have requested my brother to inform me immediately on your arrival. If you cannot come to Boston and are in much haste 3^ou can select the goods that you want when you please, and I have requested my brother to assist you in this matter, I would prefer however that you would not begin until I come but in this do as you please. I am Yr. Obt. Servt. Nathl J Wyeth CXXXI. Cambridge Jany 6th 1834 Bro. Charles, Baltimore, I write to say that I shall draw on you for one Thousand dollars payable ist March. The stock of our Co. wdllamt. to 40,000:^ which makes even an yi a full back load in these times and therefore if j^ou have any more loose cash, and wish to give /V a good circulation yow had better lend it to me, however I have not a face to ask you a direct question of this sort in these times, but only make the slio-hi suggestion. But I have provided to meet in some shape my obligations by becoming indebted to the concern in case I cannot raise my share, but I have great repugnance to resort to this measure. Our vessell sails to morrow and in the course of the week I shall go to N. York to meet Mr. Sublette in order to purchase goods for our overland trip. I think I shall be in X. York from the 12 to the 20th inst. 154] WYRTH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 97 In going out I shall pass through Baltimore but shall make lit- tle stay. I am too buis}' at present to write about family affairs and have not even made up my journal of last trip in such form as is suitable to leave. I do not know when I shall have time to do any of these things, for in addition to my other concerns I have those of Mr. Tudor to attend to for the winter. I am yr. afte. Bro. N. J. W. CXXXII. Boston Jany 4th 1834 Mr M Sublette CX York) Dear Sir I have received a note from my brother informing me of your having arrived in N. York. I should come immediately to see you were it not that I have al- ready written to urge your coming here and am afraid of passing you on the road. When I have got your answer whether j^ou will come here or not I shall move to see you. In the meantime per- mit me to suggest that there are great advantages to be derived from an interview between yourself and the gentlemen who are concerned with me in this undertaking, among the most impor- tant of which is the establishing in your mind of a perfect confi- dence that any contract that may be entered into with you or 5^our partners will be fulfilled. When j^ou have arrived here you will be able to satisfy yourself in this matter. Also it is important that you make some arrangement for sending home your furs over and above those which you pay us for the goods which we are to deliver to you. If you should wish to avail your- self of the opportunity afforded by our vessell an agreement for the same can be made here and also for transporting them to the vessell. If it is possible to come to any agreement on these subjects an insurance might be effected to cover the risk of the sea on such amt. as might be shipped. Beside the above reasons, there are many goods which can be purchased as well and some better here than in N. York. The great difficulty which your concern has encountered and the enormous expence in getting your supplies has induced me to suppose that 3^ou would avail yourself of any opportunity which on reasonable terms would obviate all the difficulties and much of the expense. Such opportunity is now within your reach. B}-- means of our vessells employed in the salmon trade we can take out goods and bring home furs to any extent to the Columbia. These goods we can purchase cheaper than goods can be purchased to send over the mountains because on some of them we get the draw- back of the duties. The packing up from the Columbia is neither difficult nor expensive, horses there are comparatively cheap and in that country there is little danger consequently' few men are re- quired. These advantages we are willing to divide with you, in order that bv sretting vour goods on reasonable terms you mav be 98 CORRRSPONDEXCK: [155 able to monopolise in a great measure the trade of the mountains, and thus, much enlarge the amt. of goods which you will take from us. One other convenience of this route is that all your men which are wanted for camp keepers could be had from the islands these men would be better than those you get from the vStates for such purposes and much cheaper. One other advan- tage to be derived from pursuing the buisness through this route is that if you succeed in breaking up the other companies as ^-ou certainh" can do, when you get 3'our goods so much cheaper 3^ou will prevent the influx to [of?] small traders and others vrho by their competition continually injure your buisness and spoil your men. Should the above considerations strike your mind as they do mine you will I have no doubt 3'ou will see of how much importance it is that parties who in the course of events ma}- have such large engagements with each other should meet and establish a mutual confidence which will afterward facilitate all buistiess and in such case I shall ex- pect to see you in Boston in the course of the week. I was in hopes that you would be able to spend the winter with me and go to St. Louis together in the Spring, but if your buisness pre- vents we will let you go after you have spent a week with us. I am Yr &c X. J. W. To M. Sublette Ks([ cxxxiir. Boston Jany 7th 1834 Mess. Samuel & More (Liberty) Gent. Mr. Abbot will hand you this. I send him for the purpose of taking care of the animals which vou may purchase, and for assisting you in the same under your direction. T request that you will l)e extremely careful in the purchase of animals and be sure to get none but what are hardy and as many mules as possible. As to price I am in hopes that having so much time to purchase in you will be able to buy horses for $25 that are first rate working- animals and rnules at 40$ but if you should not you must give a little more. 75 mules are wanted and 25 horses and to this extent you are authorized to make pur- chases. vSome competent judge must select these animals. Be- fore this you will have received the requisite assurance from Mess Rockhill <& Co. In regard to Abbot I wish you to supply his absolute want.s until I come which will be about 20th April and nothing farther. He is a little inclined to be extravagant and I do not wish to pay for it. If you have not yet made an absolute bargain in regard to the saddles for which I wrote in mv letter of 20th Dec. you can leave 156] WYETII'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 99 off the stirrups as they can be had cheaper here than with you, but if alreadv vou have made [a] contract do not alter it. I am Yr. Obt. Servt. N. J. Wyeth cxxxiv. Boston Jany. yth 1834 Mr. Wiggin Abbot Sir You will proceed with all possible despatch to Philadelphia, you will there call on Mess Grant & Stone and request them to procure a duplicate of the letter which the}' re- quested Mess. Thomas C. Rockhill & Co. to send to Mess Samuel & More of I^iberty in behalf of Mess. Tucker & Williams of Boston. With this Duplicate and the letter I have given you to Mess Sam- uel & More, you will proceed immediately to Liberty. When arrived you will deliver duplicate and letter, and act under Mess S. and M. in procuring anim.als, and keeping those that are pur- chased, taking good care that they are kept fat. Without interposing in any direct manner with Mess vS & M. I wish you to ascertain the real cash value of horses and mules, and it would be well to let them see that you take note of these things, this, not that I doubt their good faith, but they having much buisness on their hands may be deceived as to the value of animals. Also if you think the an- imals they purchase are unsuitable you will give them your opin- ion. I have requested Mess S & M. to suppl^^ you with what cash you may want for necessary expenses only but I am in hopes the money with which you are supplied here will prevent an}' considerable expenses on your ace. Your time will commence on your arrival at Liberty, and what you spend on the road will be charged to you, therefore keep an accurate ace. of the same. You will be allowed $300 for the first years services, you finding 5''Ou[r] own clothing. We do not agree to furnish any clothing or other supplies between the settlements and the Columbia river. At that place and during the year you will be charged 50 pr ct. advance on what shall be sufficient for your own use. After the first 3'ear an agreement for farther services must be made. Xathi. J. Wyeth. (Added by Mr Abbot) Having carefully examined the foregoing instructions from Mr Nathl J Wyeth and having agreed with him to render my ser- vices in conformity thereto I hereby acknowledge m^'self to be entirely under his directions and do promise and obligate myself to perform to the best of my ability all that may be required of me by him and that I am entirely satisfied with the compensation stipulated for as herein expressed, and the manner in which I am to receive the same. Signd by Wuggin Abbot. [The discrepancy in the spellings of Abbot's name occurs in the copy,] loo CORRKvSPOXnEXCK: [157 CXXXV. Boston Nov. -2301 1S33 Mr. Alfred Seaton, Sir We will take 3'oitr furs within one hun- dred miles of Horse Creek of Green River and convey the same to the Columbia and thence to Boston for thirty seven dollars and fift}' cents per pack of 100 lbs. We obligate ourselves to take the usual care of these furs on both parts of the route, furs to be de- livered to us during the month of July 1S34. The risks that you are to run includes that of our vessells going out to the Columbia. I am Yr Obt. Servt Nathl J Wyeth CXXXVI. Boston Jany. 4th 1834 Bro. Chas. (Balto. ) I have mailed to 3-ou a package of printed paper which please keep two days when if Mr. Abbot does not come to take them of you please forward them to Mess Samuel & More of Liberty Missouri in Clay county. Please give /Vbbot no money should he apply to you for it as I have given him as much as I wish to trust him with. I am &c Nathl. J. Wyeth. P. S. Papers will not come as above CXXXVI I. Boston Jany Sth 1S34 Mess Samuel & More Liberty Missouri (Tent. Having written you under date of Dec. 20th from N York and on 7th inst per Mr. Abbot I now write to recapitulate, and to make sure that you re- ceive the requisite instructions in case Abbot should be delayed from any cause, viz purchase 75 mules and 24 horses with [as] much dispatch as you can consistently with economy, place same un- der some suitable man if Mr. Abbot does not come that they may become w[o]nted to the band. Be careful to get serviceable animals. If so many mules cannot be had you must make up in horses. Also 35 common vSpanish riding saddles without stir [rlups bridles or girths these I can get cheaper here. 6 of a little su- perior kind but still not expensive for my own use and some other gentlemen, also you can be looking up 2 bulls and 8 cows for driving overland to stock a fort also one yoke of cattle for provisions, fat for eating, and about 30 sheep. If these cattle can be purchased at any time it had better be delayed until the last of the purchases. Probably I may want a few more animals than above ordered but this will do for the present. 1 am Yr. Obt. vServt. Nathl. J. Wyeth. 158] WYETH'vS OREGON EXPEDITIONS. To FIND Longitude To get Polaf distance. . . Take declination of Sun from Nauti- cal almanac for the date which we suppose to be nth Jany. 1834 which is 21 deg. 50 min. lysec. which correct for Long, from Tab. 5 Bowditch deriving you[r] knowledge of Long, from the last observation and dead reconing added. Say, Sub. i min. 45 sec. 21 deg. 49[8?] min. 32 sec. Correct for time Sa3' 3 Hours a. m. as per Table 5 Bowditch w^hich is = add i min. 07 sec. 21 deg. 50 min. 39 sec. 90 deg. 00 min. 00 sec. Add to 90 deg. to obtain polar distance Polar distance i r i deg. 50 min. 39 sec. In making the above reconing with Capt. Lambert we added instead of 90 deg. 90 deg. 50 min. 39 sec. which will make an er- ror through[ou]t the whole calculation for we made polar distance 112 deg. 58 min. 18 sec. and this sum therefore I use hereafter instead in deg. 50 min. 39 sec. which is the true distance. After rejecting seconds which we always do if under 30 and add if over I St The Cronometer to be made to agree with Greenwich time by adding or subtracting its rate as the case maj- be 2d Take the Suns altitude, and it is best to do it when the Sun is rising of [or?] falling the fastest, which read directly from the quadrant and we will suppose it to be 68 deg. 10 min. Which alwa3^s divide by two 34 deg. 5 min. To which if the Lower limb is taken alwavs add 16 min. 34 deg. 21 min. On Land for refraction always subtract i min. Which will be the true altitude 34 deg. 20 min. Corrected altitude as above 34 deg. 20 min. Corrected Latt. which is got from Last obs. and dead rec. Polar distance from above Add together Which alwa^^s divide b5' 2 which is Subtract Suns altitude Which is remainder 45 deg. 20 min. 112 deg. 58 min. 192 deg. 38 min. 96 deg. 19 min. 34 deg. 20 min. 61 deg. 59 min. CORRRSPON DKNCHr [159 In Taking out Log[a]rithms reject the index when it is 10. Cor[r]ected altitude as above 34 deg. 20 min. (from Tab. 27) Corrected Lat. as above 45 deg. 20 min. Secant of Lat. 08314 ") " Polar distance j as above 112 deg. 58 min. Co. Sec. pol. dis 03587 x\dd together & Halve 192 deg. 38 min. j Half 96 deg. 19 min. Co Sine Half | Subtract Suns alti Sum 9-041 49 |- as alx)ve 34 deg^20 min. j Remainder 61 deg. 59 min. Sine of remain- tier 9-94587 Half of this sum is hog. 9-55318 =^in time to Add equation of time from almanac as date Mean time Greenwich time, which ad[d] to 1 2 to make it greater than Mean time^if not so before W^hich we will suppose to l)e 4 H 5 rain. 3 sec. from this subtract mean time Which is the Longitude in time 19.10637 9-55318 9 H 12 min. 32 sec. 8 min. 13 sec. 9 H 20 min. 45 sec. 16 H 5 min. 3 sec. 9 H 20 min. 45 sec. 6 H 44 min. 18 sec. Which by table 21 Bowditcb is Longitude loi deg. 4 min. 30 sec. To FIND Lattitudk 48 deg. 25 min. 00 00 28tli Jany 1833 observed Index error Half altitude Suns Semi diameter Refraction on Land Subtract from 90 deg. Suns declination for date Latt. Mess Samuel & More Gent On the other side you have copy of agreement, with a note on the back. Should you engage the 30 48 deg. 24 deg. 25 min. 12 mill. 16 min. 30 sec. 16 sec. 24 deg. 28 min. I min. 46 sec. 00 sec. 24 deg. 90 deg. 27 min. 00 min. 46 sec. 00 sec. 65 deg. 18 deg. 32 min. 10 min. 14 sec. 30 sec. 47 deg. 21 min. 44 sec. CXXXVIII. Boston Jany 12th 1834 i6o] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 103 men named in my letter of the 20 ulto. 15 of them must agree to this note, as it may be desirable to let Sublette have some of the taen when I reach the mountains. Mr. Sublette is now with me. At his suggestion I request you to consider if men and animals could not better be got in some of the lower counties than in Jackson and Clay and if so you can make any suitable arrange- ment for doing it. Endeavor principally to get French and mules and make no advances until I come. Make no agreement with any one that you think likely to back out or that you do not think a good man. The french are generally much preferable. I desire that as soon as you receive this you would send weekl)^ to the care of Mess. Von Phul and McGill a statement of what you have done, in order that when I arrive at St. lyOuis I may know what you have done, and be able to make what purchases or engagements [as] are wanted while I am coming up the coun- try. I shall probably be with you by the middle of April. I am Yr. Obt. Servt. Nathl. J. W3^eth CXXXIX. Boston Jany 14th 1834 Bro Leond. N. York. Mr Sublette requests me to ask 5^ou to in- quire at the office for letters for him, and in case you find any you can forward them to the care of Tucker & Williams. This until the first da^^ of Feb. after which time you can keep them and he will get them when he comes. I also wish you would inform me as soon as you can if there are an^^ red stronds or scarlet cloths to be had in N. York and on what terms. If Mr Wm. L, Sublette calls on you he can direct his letters to his brother to Mess. T & W as above I shall be with you about the 12 th Feb. next And I rem Yr Obt Servt N. J. W. CXL. Boston Jany 15th 1834 Mr Thomas Nutall Dear Sir I write to say that I shall pass through Philadelphia sooner than I at first contemplated say 18 to 2ist Feby. and possibly shall leave St. L,ouisbythe 20th March and the upper settlements bj^ the 20th of April. Should you not be in Philadelphia when I pass you can join me on the route or at St. Louis in which place you will hear of me at Mess. Von Phull & McGills. If when you arrive at St. Louis I have gone you will then find me at Mess. Samuel and Mores in Liberty Clay County where I shall remain until the 20 certainly, perhaps longer. 104 CORREvSPONDKNCE: [i6i Hoping- I may have the pleasure of your company from Philad. west, I remain Yr. Obt. Servt. Xathl. J. Wyeth. CXLI. Cambridge Jany 25th 1834 Saml. L. Dana Esq. (W'altham) Dear Sir Altho a stranger I have de- sired to call on you to thank you for a piece of servace you did me in j'our review of the Book of J no. Wyeth, by Benj Water- house. It enhances the obligation that it was done for a stran- ger, in his absence, and that it w-as so well done that the liar and his pander were annihilated. Much buisness prevents my ac- knowledging to you in person, but be assured that I shall take with me to the prairies and forests a sense of the favor you have conferred on me and those who feel an interest in me. I am &c N. J. Wyeth. CXLI I. Cambridge Jany. 26th 3S34 ?irother Perry Newbury (Vermont) Finding that it will be impos- sible to visit you as contemplated before leaving these parts, I write to say good bye, to 3-0 u and yours. If you wish to write to the Sandwach Islands, I will carry letters which I can send by our vessell to their destination. I leave this place on the 7th Feb. and should 3'our letters reach here a little later they could be for- warded to St. Louis. There is little to say at this moment more than if good success attends me this time it will be long before I shall return but if on the contrary I meet with disasters, I shall soon be back and probably be obliged to remain for want of means to make a third trial. Mr Sublette is now with me which is the reason of my leaving so much sooner than I expected. All connections are well. Wife sends her love. I am Yr Afte. Bro. Nathl J Wyeth CXLIII. Cambridge Jany 29th 1834 Mr Hallett (FMitor of the Boston Dayly Advocate ) Dear Sir I have not been able to find the author of the piece in your paper of 23rd Jany. 1S33. I leave this for the westward f)n the 7th Feb. and therefore can have no farther time to attend to this matter. I have not the least doubt that could the author of the communication be found he would give Jno. Wyeth as his authority. Now as the Book of Jno Wyeth is at variance with this communication it onl}^ remains to shew that Jno. Wyeth is the author of both to shew that no credit is due to anything that he stated. It will be some trouble to you perhaps to find the per- son who sent the communication but I have confidence enough in vour disposition to see justice done, to ask you to do so, and ask r62] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 105 him for his authority. If he gives Jno. Wyeth, I will then ask you to compare the book with the communication and state in your paper the difference which 5'ou may find. As I conceive, you have inadverently done me an injur}^ It is in your power to do me a favor that will more than compensate. I ask no more than truth and justice and I have no doubt that you will incur a little trouble to render it. I am Yr. Obt. Servt Nathl. J. Wyeth. CXLIV. Cambridge Jany. 31th 1834 Cousin Noah fHingham) Yours of 28 inst. is received. I leave this on 7th Feb. but cannot take books across the continent 4000 miles the risk and transportation would be five times their value. Our vessell for this year has gone but one will go yearly b}' which any thing may be sent that his friends wish. Articles to be sent to Mr Ball should be left with Mess Tucker & Williams Central Wharf Boston. If his friends [wish] to send letters I will take charge of them with great pleasure and he will get them in Sept. next. I should have notified Mr Balls friends of this opportunity but I did not know where to find them. If the person you mention will inform them I will b2 obliged to hitn. Letters for him maybe sent to the care of Mess T. & R or Chas. Wyeth Baltimore who will forward them to me at St. L,ouis until the loth day of March next after which time they cannot overtake me as I shall leave the western settlements about the middle of April next. Respy Yrs. N. J. Wyeth CXLV. Boston Feb. 3d 1834 Bro Charles My Indian boys are on board the Hem.[?] Bg. Nitor bound for your place. I wish you would watch and on their arrival place them at some suitable place to board see that their washing is done &c until I come. Buy for them what clothing they stand in immediate need of and pay ^20 for their passage. I leave this on the 7th inst and shall tarry for a few days in N. York to buy goods and be in Balto. about the 15th inst. In the mean time I am Yrs. N. J. W. CXLVI. Boston Feb. 23d[?] 1834 Mr Wm L. Sublette N. York, Dear Sir Your fav. of 30th ulto. is at hand. Your brother is here and we leave in company for New York on the 7th inst where we shall remain about 5 days then to Philad. there remain 2 or 3 more then to Baltimore there re- io6 CQRRESPONDKNXP:: [163 main 2 more. If I do not see you before please leave word with my brother in Baltimore where you can be found, as I am anx- ious to be in company on the route westward. I place little re- liance on any information or on any reports throug"h the Am. F Co. especially b)^ Doct. Harrisons hands. There ma}' have some small disaster happened and a small one it must be to amt. to no more than $7000 when it reached vSt. lyouis throug-h such hatids. Vou well know the great pains taken by rival companies in the mountains to discredit their opponents. My brother of N. York informed me some time since that a draft drawn by Abbot on M. (i. Sublette charg-eable to me was shewn him, which having no instructions he refused to pa}'. This is all the information I have received of this draft. I presume it is [for] supplies for Abbot on his passage down. If so for any reasonable amt. I shall pa}- it when I see }^ou. 1 regret that you did not forward it to me with the account or whatever else it is founded on. Ablx)t never noti- fied me that he had drawn such a draft. Had the buisness been ])roperl}' done I should have avoided having it said that a draft on me had l>een returned unpaid. I shall call on Mess (^ill Cam- !>el & Co. if I do not see you in N. York, but if you could possi- bly wait my arriv^alin N. York it would af[fjordraemuch pleasure . I should urge your coming to Boston were it not so late. If you think of going to Washington I would like to keep company. I am Yr Obt. Servt Nathl. J. W'yeth P. S. Miltons foot is I think a little better. CXLVII. Boston Feb 4th 1834 Thomas Nuttall Esq. Philad. Dear.vSir Your esteemed Fav. of 30th ulto is at hand. I leave this on the 7th inst. and may be in Philad b\' the i6th, but probably not until i8th or 20th and by the time we can reach the Ohio, I think it will be open. I am pleased that there will be one more added to our society. x\s he will probabl}' have no servant I would not recommend to him to take many goods. His stock of clothing would I should think be all that he will require. I should advise him to take three mules but three horses or two mules would do. What little clothing he may want in the coun- try he shall have on such terms that he will have no reason to complain. I do not see that he need provide anything before reaching vSt. Louis more than he has unless he carrys iviplements of scie7ice. I will deliver the message to Mr. Brown. I have engaged Capt. Thwing^'^ who is well versed in taking observations to accompany the expedition and have provided suitable implements. Can you get some cherry, peach, apple, pear, apricot, plumb, and nectar- ■•"riie author spells the name of his Captain with a "w" this first time. .164] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 107 ine stones to take with us? Mr. vSublette is now with me and will come on in company. ' Resply. Yr. Obt. Servt. N. J. Wyeth. CXLVIII. Boston Feb 5th 1S34 Mr Joseph Thing- Sir The following buisness requires to be at- tended to before you leave Boston, yiz Ship to Baltimore to Mess. W^^eth & Norris 7 tents and 45 oil covers, which find at Bell & Cowlevs Indian Rubber Boat " " " Tucker & Williams Two Traveling Cases " " " B. C. Weld Camb. 100 Beaver Traps " " " Brainerds. Also bring on with you a memorandum of all the bills Charged by Tucker & Williams to the overland expedition in order that I may have with me the means of knowing at any time the amt. invested in this part of the buisness. At N. York and Baltimore of the gentlemen to whom I give a^ou letters you will obtain far- ther advices from me provided you do not find me with them. '& N. J. W. CXLIX. Boston Feb. 5th 1834 Bro Chas. The bearer is Capt. Jos. Thing who goes out with me as the second in command. Whatever buisness I leave with you relating to this expedition or an}' letters to me you will please hand over to him, and shew him such attention as may be in your power and oblige yr. Afte. Bro. X. J. Wyeth CL. Thursday evening Feb 4th 1834 Boston. Mess. Tucker & Williams Boston Gent I do not think the traps will be according to sample therefore it will be requisite to ex- amine them carefully and compare them with thepat[t]ern, which is in Brainerds possession. They should be equalh' well finished with the pat[t]ern and by contract are to be set for one week and then rejected if the springs do not come vip fair or are broken. I have agreed, if he would have all of them finished by the 7th Feb. to give him $15 over and above the contract. If Brainerd will not agree to have them set on board the Packett and take back all that do not prove good on their arrival in Baltimore, it will be requisite to retain them in Boston one week in order to trs' them by setting at the end of which time, if the springs are unbroken and come up fair and they are as well finished as the sample he io8; CORRESPONDK^'CK: [1-65 will be entitled to $165 for one Hundred traps, this provided they are delivered to you on the 7 inst. but if delivered after that time he is only entitled to 150$ I am Yr. Obt. Servt. Xathl. J. Wyeth. CU. Providence Feb 4th 1834 Jno Pickering" Rsq. Dear Sir Your favor of Feb 4th reached me onlv last evening- consequently I could not call on you as request- ed. It is not in my power to answer the queries contained in your letter from memor\' but I will preserve the vocabulary which you sent and endeavour to give the information desired at some future time. Probably I will write to you ag-ain before leaving the States and after rejoining the Indians, but if I should not do this I will on the first occasion write you from beyond the mountains. If you wish to write me on these subjects your letters will reach me by being left at Mess. Tucker & Williams 011 Central Wharf, both before I leave the States and afterward, and be assured that it would afford me much pleasure to give any in- formation in my ^X)wer. I am &c X. J. W. To Jno, Pickering Esq. [A letter to F. Tudor Esq., Boston, written F'eb. 7th, from Provi- dence is omitted. It is devoted exclusively to explanations of suggested improvements in the process of harvesting ice.] CLII. New York Fel) loth TS34 Mess. Tucker & Williams (Boston) Gent Your letter of the 9th inst. was received today containing let- ter and copy of letter from Mess. Samuel & More. The copy is in answer to one of mine of Dec. 4th 1S33 and the letter was written about the same time and contains nothing important. An answer to all that is contained in these two letters is in letters which I wrote to these two gentlemeii on the 20th Dec. and Jany 7th 8th and 12th last which they appear not to have re- ceived at the date of their writing. A copy of these letters I would forward to you but have not time to write them off. I hope you will see that the traps are good. His engagement was to have them done by the 7th. I do not know if he is bound to notify you of their being done. It is important to get them as soon as possible. i66] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 109 I shall write you as often as anything transpires of interest and in the meantime hope that you are not affected by the late failures. Will you have the goodnees to send me amt. of the balance to my Cr. on your books in your next as I wish to enter it against you in my new books and have mislaid the ace, which you rendered. I am &c N. J. W. CLIII. N. York Feb. loth 1S34 Wra. L. Sublette Esq. Philad Dear Sir I arrived here in co with Milton yesterday Mng. and was disappointed in not finding you here, and write to say that we shall probably be in Philad. by the 1 6th and there hope to see you, I am &c N. J. W CLIV. N. York Feb nth 1S34 Mess Thomas C. Rockhill & Co. (Philad) Gent I have notice[d] that Mr Samuel of the firm of Samuel & More of Liberty Missouri left for your city on the 6th of Jany. I am very desirous of seeing him. Will you have the goodness to inform him that I shall remain here until the i6th inst. and then come to Philadelphia, provided you know where he is at this time. And oblige Yr. Obt. Servt. N. J. Wyeth CLV. N York Feb nth 1S34 Bro Charles (Balto) I have your fav. of the [oth of Jany last. I leave this on the i6th and remain but one day in Philadelphia and then to your city and hope to see you once more. Yr. Afte. Bro. N. J. W. CLVI. New York Feb nth 1834 Mess Tucker & Williams Boston Gent Finding that there would be some cash bills to be paid here I have this day drawn on you at sight for 600$ No i, which will probably be all this side the Aleganies at less time than six months. I am &c N. J. Wyeth no. CORRESPONDEXCK: [167 CLVII. N. York Feb 12th 1833 [4I Mess Tucker & Williams Boston Gent Herewith you have duplicate of my letter of yesterday and copy of letter to Samuel & More which last will give you a view of the present state of affairs with them. I am &c N. J. Wyeth. CLVIII. New York Feb 12th 1S34 Wm. I^. Sublette FvSq. (Philad) Dear Sir Yours of the 6th inst was re- ceived b}^ way of Boston today An answer to its contents has already been sent you and I presume you have received it l:>efore this. I only write to say that Milton leaves this in the morning; for your city and I shall be there bv the 16 and will expect to find you at Gill Campbell & Co. I am &c N. J. Wyeth. CLIX. New York Feb 12 th 1H34 Mess Tucker & Williams (Boston) Gent Your fa v. of loth inst is at hand. If the Black smith will not consent to the traps being sent to Baltimore and abide the result on their examination there thej^ must be tried by setting one week in Boston and as soon there- after as possible have them forwarded to Mess W^yeth & Norris. If sent by the 24th inst I shou[l]d get them in season but I would take none after the 20th including time of trs^al. I note what you say as to residue of goods and of Capt Thing. In regard to drafts from the mountains the}" cannot be made on Samuel & More but must l>e made on some first rate house in St. lyouis or on the bank as arranged. In regard to the $6000 which I am to draw' on you for from St. Louis I may make an arrangement with Samuel «& More for a part, but I have not yet seen him and do not know where to find him, but have w-ritten to Philadelphia, but at the same time I would not like to make an arrangement with him for the whole. I request that you will immediately furnish me with a credit in in St. Louis of at least 3000$. If Thomas C. Rockhill & Co would accept my drafts there would be no trouble at least I think so, or if you would make yourselves known to Mess Von Phull & Mc Gill of vSt Louis I think that would answer, but I can not pick up horses cheap without cash in hand nor can I wait until I get to Liberty to get it. for I must make some purchases before. As I i68] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONvS. in leave this 2 da^'S hence and then make haste westward you must be aware that there is not a moment to loose in this matter. I am yr obt Servt N. J. Wyeth. P. S. Your next please address to the care of Mess Grant & Stone Philad. [The following is written across the above letter: Do not omit to have all the chains sent whether the traps are or not.] [A letter to Frederic Tudor, Esq., Boston, dated "N. York Feb 12 1834" is omitted. Like that of the 7th inst. to Mr. Tudor it contains only suggestions pertaining to the management of the "ice business." Mr. WVeth closes the letter by sa3dng, "Excuse the liberty I take in these matters I cannot forget the habit of thinking that I have still something to do with ice"] CLX. New York Feb 15th 1834 Bro Jacob. (Galena) I leave this place on my way west on the 15th inst. and shall be in St. Louis from the 5th to the loth [of] April and would be much pleased to see you there. The ur- gency of m}^ buisness prevents mjr coming to see you, otherwise I would do so. I have in charge for you some books which I shall send from St. Louis to you if I do not see vou there. I am Yr. Afte. Bro. N J Wyeth CLXI. N York Feb 14th 1834 Rev Jason Lee. (Baltimore) Dear Sir. I have received your fav. of nth inst in answer to which sa}^ that I leave this cit}^ to mor- row morning and proceed directly west and remain but five or six davs at St. Louis. You will hear of me in St, Louis by calling on' Mess Von Phull & McGill. I think I received and answered a line from some one in west- ern Mass. but am not certain. &c &c N. J. W. CIvXIl. New York Feb. 14th 1834 Mess. Tucker & Williams (Boston) Gent On the other side you have a list of drafts drawn on 3^ou up to this date also a list of bills paid. I am obliged to keep the originals as vouchers in making up the invoices for Sublette. I shall forward them from the up- per settlements b}^ private hand and in the mean time shall con- tinue to forward only lists of bills. The good[s] from this place I shall ship to Baltimore by sea, be- ing cheaper and will be in time. Enclosed 3^ou have all the ma- terials for invoicing if you deem expedient. If you write me as CORRESPONDENCE: [169 earl}^ as the i6th you can direct to the care of Mess Wyeth & Norris Baltimore but if later and until the i8th to the care of Josiah Lawrence & Co. Cincinati, after which time to the care of Mess Von Phull & McGill St. Louis and they will forward the letters to me wherever I may be at the time. I am yr. obt. Servt. N. J. W. (Enclosing bill of lading, and drafts drawn to date and bills paid.) viz. No. I Feb 1 1 th fav. of Cripps & Wyeth sight 600. " F. Gebard 6 month:; 149. §5 " R. H. Osgood & Co 8 months 253. " F. B. Rhodes 6 months 388. oS " Robbins & Painter 6 months 484.92 " Sindam & Jackson 6 months 571-75 '• Wolf & Clark 6 months 484.65 14 14 Bills paid Feb. 13 Jno H. Albee '' Smith & " N. H. Weeld & Co *•' Girding & Siemon IS " Piatt Stout & Tngoldsby " Hide Hitchcock & Greenman " Baily Ward & Co. " W. &. E Clark " Strv'ker & Smith " R. H. Osgood & Co. " E. D. Sprague & Co. " E. J. & E. White No. I " 2 3 " 4 " 5 '■' 6 7 8 8.87 5-85 13-50 17-37 17-5S 3-38 3.00 11.50 61.09 18.86 253,00 11.94 39,00 9 " 10 " II " 12 " 13 N. J. W. [The following is written across the face of the above letter] P. S. Out of the 2543.59 deduct, not shipped by the Othello 20 rifles 200.00 2 spades 1.75 30 doz.ScalpingknivesLPJ41.25 2 43.00 or $2300.59 to be invoiced Bill to F. B. Rhodes No 14 $388.08 " " F. Gebard " 15 149.85 " " Robbins & Painter " 16 484.92 " " Sindam & Jackson " 17 571-75 " " Wolf & Clark *' 18 484.65 i7o] WYETH'vS OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 113 CLXIII. N. York Feb 14th 1834 Capt Jos Thing (present) Sir You will please call on Mess. Wolf & Clark Pearl St. and ascertain if they have shipped to Mess Wyeth & Norris Baltimore some Rifles and Indian Knives forme and if so you will bring on with you the bills lading but if they have not you will bring these goods with you by the boats and railroads provided this route is open but if it is not you will have to ship them which do by the first vessell. This is all that occurs to my mind now. You will attend to any suggestion which Mess. Cripps & Wyeth may give in relation to this buisness, and oblige yrs &c N. J. W. P. S. There are at Wolf & Clarks 20 rifles, 2 spades, and 30 doz scalping knives. CLXIV. Philadelphia Feb i8th 1834 Capt Thing Dear Sir Having found the cloths which I wanted in this place, it becomes expedient to have the goods still in N.York forwarded as soon as possible, therefore please bring them on by the Boats and Rail Road as soon as you can get them. Yrs &c N J Wyeth CLXV. Philadelphia Feb iSth 1834 Bro. L[e]ond I have found in this place the Scarlett Cloths which I wanted, will you have the goodness to inform Mr. Stewart that he need not buy an}^ on our ace. Please forward any letters that may come to you for me on or be- fore the 19th inst. to care of Charles Balto. And believe me vr. afte. Bro. Nathl. J. Wyeth CLXVI. Philadelphia Feb. i8th 1834 Bro. L[e]ond. (N. York) Herewith I introduce to your acquaintance Mr. E. M, Samuel of Liberty Missouri. I have received from him the utmost kind- ness and attention when it was particularly acceptable. Anyatten- tention that you shew him will much oblige me. I hope 3'ou are by this much better than when I left you and am anxious to get a letter from you informing me of the state of 3'our health. Yr Afte. Bro. N. J. Wyeth 114 CORRESPONDENCK: [i 71 CLXVII. Philadelphia Feb. i8th 1S34 Mess Tucker & Williams (Boston) Gent I have seen Mr. Samuel. He assures me that the buis- ness of purchasing mules and horses is going on as fastas economy will permit and thinks we will have no difficulty as to men or animals. I do not feel like trusting to any particular house at the west- ward for funds, inasmuch as by possibilit}'^ they might not be able to give me the amt. of cash that I might want. The amt. disbursed by you in Boston with what I have already drawn for is about $3900 and possibly here or at Cincinati I may draw for 600$ more and $2000 w^hich you arranged for through Rockhill & Co. This wdll leave of the original sum of $16000 $9500 of which amt. 5500$ [are reserved] to meet my drafts from the mountains [pay- ment] must be made through the bank as arranged. r have procured from Mess Grant & vStone letters of credit backed by one from Mess T. C. Rockhill & Co. and you will please forward to Mess Grant & Stone authority to draw on you for 4000$ at sight whenever they have paid my drafts to that or a less amount. Also please forward the letters of credit from the Cashier of the Branch in Boston to the Cashier of the Branch in St. Louis to the care of Mess \'on Phull & McGill. Herewith you have notice of bill drawn on you from this place and also bills paid here also duphcate list of bills drawn on you from N. York as per my letter of 14th inst. I leave for Baltimore at 7 in the morning and Remain, Yr. Obt. Servt. N. J. Wyeth. ci.xviir. Philadelphia Feb iSth 1S34 Mess Grant & Stone Gent Since seeing you it has occured to my mind to request you to forward letters if any should come for me to the care of Mess. Wyeth & Norris of Baltimore. Also to say that my first draft on you will be No. 10, and follow in regular series till the amt. is completed. I am Yr Obt. vServt X. J. W. CLXIX. Philad. Feb iSth 1S34 ^Q^pt Thing, Dear Sir I write merely to say that there is noth- ing for you to attend to in this place except to call on Geo. W. Carpenter Druggist Markett St. and see Mr. Nuttall and let him know that you are going on, he wishes to keep company with vou. Yr &c X. J. Wyeth. 172] WYRTH'S OREGON. EXPEDITIONS. 115 CLXX. Balto. Feb 20th 1S34 Col. E. W. Metcalf Boston Dear Sir Your esteemed fav. of 8th inst. reached me on mj^ arrival here last night. In regard to the sub- ject of it I think you have a right to suspect almost any thing (from that quarter) but I assure you that I have no knowledge in regard to it. I am well aware that what you state in regard to the contract was common report at the time but I have not the slightest idea of what prevented its going into effect. I desire you would believe that there is no desire on my part to withold information on this or any other subject and should be at all times pleased to correspond with you. Respy. Yr Obt Servt. N. J. Wyeth. CLXXI. Balto. Feb. 20th 1834 Mrs Deborah Powers (Lansingburg New Troy N Y.) Madam Your fav. I have received, and most gladly com- municate the information j^ou desire. Please direct your letter to the care of Mess von Phull and McGill of St Louis to reach there by the 15th April. I have frequently endeavored to find the directions of Mr Balls friends but had not succeeded. You may be assured that your brother shall want nothing that I can supply on my arrival out. I will make some enquiries about the Box which 3'ou speak of. And Remain Yr Obt. N. J. W^-eth CLXXII. Baltimore Feb. 21st 1834 Capt Thing Balto. Dear Sir I leave here bills lading for Two Cases goods for Wm. G. Sublette, also Bills lading for goods from Phil- delphia also Bills lading of goods from N. York and the Bills lading sent by you from N. York. In addition to these goods you will have those from Boston of which I presume you have the bills lading, as they have not been sent me. On the receipt of all these goods you will have the Cases &c overhauled and made strong and put them on board the wagons for Wheeling or Pitsburgh taking receipt for the same in the usual manner. Have its weight marked on each box, in order that there may be no need of weighing more than once. If by the time 3^ou have done this the traps have not come, you will leave them behind, in which case I have left directions with Mess WA^eth and Norris to take care of them. All charges incurred of the Two Cases of Wm. G. Sublette you will keep separate. Pay all bills here and take and preserve all the bills and bring them on. ii6 CORRESPONDENCE: [173 I leave here $150 for you which I have charged to yon. You will call on Mess. Josiah Lawrence & Co. of Cincinati where I will leave a line for you [No signature.] P. S. You will manage the reshipping the goods when it is requisite. You will find here 2 cases marked S. 16 and 17 and a barrel [marked] S No iS. CLXXIII. [No date.] Mr Eraden burgh [?] Dear Sir You will oblige me by seeing that 2 cases goods for Sublette and Campbell and one for me per the Union line from Phila. are brought to the store also if goods from Bos- ton or N. York should arrive before Capt Thing comes have them brought to the store. All these goods are to be sent to Wheeling or Pit.sburgh and you will oblige me by putting Capt. Thing in the way of doing this in the best manner and advise him as to the suitableness of the cases. Expenses to be paid by Capt Thing. vShould any goods come after Capt Thing leaves this you will oblige me by forwarding them to Von PhuU & McGill St. Louis in the best manner. Some traps are the only [things] which! now expect will be too late for Capt Thing and the expenses on these Mess Wyeth & Norris will pay and and collect the same of Mess. Tucker & Williams of Boston. Please address me to the care of Mess \'on PhuU & Mc Gill of St. Louis. There is here a package of letters for Wm. G. Sublette also the two cases goods which please deliver [to] him. You will find him at Bells House[?] on Saturday or Monday. If he wishes the goods can come on with Capt. Thing. All letters for me you will please forward to the care of Mess. Von PhuU & McGill St. Louis and if Bills of lading are wanted for the goods from Boston vou open letters for me to find them. N. J. W CLXXIV. Baltimore Feb. 21st 1834 Mess. Tucker & Williams Boston Gent. Herewith you have duplicate notice of draft drawn on you from Philad. and notice of draf[t] from this place, and list of Bills paid here. I have lef[t] with Wj'eth & Norris $150 to the Cr. of Capt Thing for the payt. of freight of goods out. List of Bills paid here No. 21, Wyeth & Norris 35- 18 " 22, Thomas Tyson 35-93 " 23, Densmore & Kyle 69.78 Duplicate notice draf[t] as per letter of F'eb. iSth from Philad. 174] WYRTH'vS OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 117 viz Liter Price & Co 6 months, 230. 1 8. Draft Drawn from this place Feb. 20th fav. of Mess. Wyeth & Norris $300.00 at sight. I am to leave this to morrow morning therefore in [the] future please address all vour letters to the care of Mess Von Phull & McGill of St Louis. ' I am yr obt. Servt. N. J. Wyeth CLXXV. Baltimore Feb 22nd 1S34 Capt Thing (Baltimore) Dear Sir Since mine of yesterday it has occurred to me that it would be well to try an observation with oar instrument during the time that you will be waiting for the goods, this in order to see that 5^ou have all the requisites and such as are suitable. If you find any thing deficient you will pur- chase it here if possible. The sextant had better cross the mount- ains in your trunk if you can find the room. You will examine the two cases carefully and see that all is tight. The bbl. of Rum at Wyeth & Norris will require to be carefully examined to see if it is tight and the Boxes should be hooped. If you find that there is not enough money left for you you will obtain more by shewing that more is requisite of W5'eth & Norris. I am Yr. Obt. Servt. N. J. Wyeth CIvXXVI. Pitsburg March [Feb.] 26th 1834 Capt Thing Dear Sir Since writing 3^ou at Baltimore it has oc- curred to me that some medicines for the clap and pox may be wanted the men often contract these disorders before they leave the settlements and unless there are some remedys the conse- quences are bad often inducing the men to desert in order to obtain relief. They should be of small bulk and little cost, and please get them at the first place that you can find them. Of these medicines we have plenty on the Brig and probably very few cases will occurs before we reach her. I am Yr. Obt. Servt. Nath. J. Wyeth CLXXVII. Pitsburgh Feb 26th 1834 Dear Wife (Camb. ) Since leaving home have had good luck enough to get so far and being detained here one day have time to write you. About the time this reaches you it will be time to get the things about the house in order. Please send my comp- liments to Mr. Weld and request him to see to it the small trees must be dug round except those set out last fall. Have them all trimmed but tak[e] off only dead branches. Have the the fences iiS CORRESPONDKN'CH: [175 righted up and all things made decent, in order that when I send any friend to you you ma}- be able to receive him. Give my love to all friends and excuse this short letter. I have many to write and am unused to writing to ladys any way. Yr afte Husband X.J. \V. CLXXVIII. Pittsburgh Feb. 26th 1S34 F Tudor Esq. (Boston) Sir Your fav. of 17 inst. came to hand at Baltimore. The very flattering and liberal expressions used in it demand an acknowledgement. I am quite well aware of the value of testimonials from such a source and persuaded that I owe to similar ones the power to proceed in an enterprise which you are pleased to say has disippainted some of your expectations. It affords me mnch pleasure to hear that the ice buisness is like to assume an importance worthy of the perseverance and talent bestowed on it for so many years. If true satisfaction is to be found it must be I think in the success of ones plans against the current of the worlds opinions and the ridicule of fools. I do not doubt that the extended ideas which you take of the buisness are sound and the belief affords me gratification unalloyed except by a fear that I shall have no part in the excitement of the strife or the glory of victory. While you are successfull in N. Orleans these oppositions in Charleston are not of so much account, and up to the time that I left circumstances to me indicated an unexampled success in these but other p[l]aces aside I am persuaded that experience enables vou to manage an opposition to perfection. In regard to my returning to the ice buisness I can only say that "I am pledged" to the buisness I am in, as long as those con- cerned in it carry it on in the right spirit but I will not suffer small and parsimonious views, in others, to ruin me past redemption, or consume my time and prevent me from availing of a great op- portunity. I consider the buisness I am now in as of sure result but will not yield adequate returns until the third year. In the mean time if those concerned fail in confidence or preseverance all is ruin and I shall not again essay to trouble the waters of these seas. Having engaged good fait[h] impels me to leave noth- ing undone to make this thing successfull and if so to pursue it for the benefit of all, but if they put this out of my power and you are inclined I shall then return on the best terms I can to the ice buisness. I shall write you at all opportunities and next from the rendezvous in the Rocky mountains when I will give you any in- dication that may then appear as regards the probable result of this buisness. 176] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 119 I note the kind wishes at the end of your letter if mine in re- turn are an equivalent )'0u have plent}' of them and be assured sincere. I am vr. obt. Servt. Nathl J Wyeth. CLXXIX. Pit^burgh Feb 26th 1834 Mess Tucker & Williams (Boston) Gent Some conversation while on m}- route hither and a previous acquaintance has induced me to give letters of introduction to Mr. Ira Smith of St. Louis direct- ed to you. He thinks of visiting Boston on his return from Santa Fee and if so he will present them at that time and also to com- municate to you the following ideas. The present letter on this subject is only intended to call your attention [to the matter] in order that you may collect what information you can in regard to it, and if such examination is favorable to the project and after those in hand now have been made to pay and leisure afforded to establish new sources of profit then to take hold of it. The fol- lowing statement is my view of the Santa Fee buisness, derived however from superficial observation, viz First cost of goods carried to St Fee and duties paid the Mexican Government $100,000 Outfits and expenses on same 50,000 Profits and interest in the States between the importer and the St Fee Trade 25,000 $175000 Returns made from St. Fee in Specie and Beaver $200000 Profits remaining to the -St. F'ee Traders $ 25000 This is I presume about the result of the trade. The goods are carried to St Fee by about 30 distinct traders in about 75 wagons. The largest trader has rarely more than 1 2 wagons. More than one half of these people are farmers and buy their goods on 1 2 months, and often mortgage their farms and conse- quently are obliged to make returns the same year, and will not follow the trade more than one year with bad success under any clrcumstaaces and certainly' not when you consider that unless there is a sufficient company it is not possible to go through on the Sta Fee route. The idea that I have is this (when we are ready to make such large investments) take $50000 first cost of goods to the mouth of the Columbia with say $5000 in silver to pay the duties transport them up countr^^ and encamp there near Sta Fee and enter only to the amt. of 5000$ duties from the sale of these goods get the means to enter the residue. The mildness of the climate west of the mountains will enable to bring these goods to Santa Fee two months earlier than the St. Louis traders will come during which time considerable sales will be T20 CORRRvSPOXDrCNCK: [177 made when they come put the goods down so that they must loose at the same time buy them out so that they will loose a little. They must return in about 2 months, after which time and dur- ing the rest of the year goods will resume their accustomed prices. The sales of the first year will probably be one half consumed in purchases made. I do not believe that a companj^ could be got to go from St Louis the next year if so a very small one and must be treated the same as the first after which time I think it is a matter of absolute certainty that we should get the whole trade. I have not made the requisite enquiries but do not calculate on any saving of distances by taking the goods from the Columbia but only of duties merch[an]ts profits in States and animals and in transporting to which there will be an ofifsett of in- terest. I think that after the 3d year one third of all the re- turns of the trade might be profit. The route from the Columbia to Santa Fee is the same in part as to the mountains and the returns such as would not interfere materially with the cargo of Salmon being entirely Beaver and specie. Mr. Smith is Brother of the Smith killed on the Sta Fee route in 1829. He bears an excellent reputation here and thinks he would put $EOOoo into such a buisness. He has been two years in this trade and is the largest Dealer in it. If anything should be done it would require another partner in the Indian country, and I presume no better person could be found. I object however to anv further proceeding in this matter other than collecting information until what we have now in hand has proved itself which will be about three 3-ears then if successfuU and it be found expedient, I am for it. In the mean time let us blow the coals, that the fire in Smiths mind may not go out. It is a buisness that he opened to me and I think that he may be kept in tow until we are ready to say yes or no. I am desirous to get the Hudsons Bay Cos. public sales in Lon- don and all other information touching furs that can be obtained which please forward by next vessell I am 3^-. obt. Servt. N. J. W. CLXXX. Wheeling Feb 27th 1S34 Mr. Jno. Bradenburgh [?] Baltimore Dear Sir There is a package of letters for Mr. \Vm. L. Sublette at the store which please have forwarded to the care of Mess A. and G. W. Can & Co St Louis. The Goods w^hich belong to Mr. Wm. Ct.''= Sublette you will please have forwarded with mine &c N. J. W. ■^^*he second initial of Wm. Sublette's name was uniformly written as "G" in the letter book. A reviser has however written an "L" over the "G" in almost every instance. The "'L" has alone been given wherever it thus occurs. 178] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 121 CIvXXXI. Cincinati Feb 28th i833[4] Capt Thing Present, Dear Sir I leave here no buisness for you to attend to but wish you would call at the Post Office in Louisville where if I purchase any thing I shall leave a letter for you. Should 3'ou be in want of money here you will obtain it of Mess. Josiah Lawrence & Co. I am Yr obt Servt. N J Wyeth CLXXXII. Cincinati March ist 1834. Mess Tucker & Williams Boston Gent Yours of i8th ulto. received here. What you sa}' of the traps is good. I presume that you have rec[e]ived notice before this that Capt. Thing joined me in N.York, and of the arrangement I made in regard to drafts from St Louis. From this place I drew on you for $300 in fav. of Lawrence & Co sight. I purchase no goods here Sublette pre- ferring to bu3^ his Powder in St. Louis which is better for us. $165 of this money goes to pay a draft which Abbot drew on me in fav, of Mr. Sublette of which I had no notice until lately and did not justly owe but choose to pay to save discredit. After I have finished spending I shall endeavour to forward means by which 3^ou will be in funds to the extent of my deficiency so far as I shall then know it but am afraid that if money continues as present in Boston I shall not be able to come quite up to the mark. Duplicate notice Draft fav. of Mess. Wyeth & Norris [at] sight for $300.00 F'eb. 20th 1834 N. J. W. CLXXXIII. Cincinnati March ist 1834 Mess Grant & Stone Philad. Gent I write onl}^ to inform you that my first draft w411 be from St Louis No 1 1 having since I wrote you had occasion to draw one draft more on Boston than I expected And remain yr obt Servt N J W^ CLXXXIV. Louisville March 3d 1834 Mess Allison and Anderson Louisville Gent. For fear that in the hurry of buisness you might forget m^^ directions I recapitulate viz Mark from 20 upwards. W. and ship to Mess Von Phull & McGill of 122 CORRKSPONDKN'CE: [179 St. Louis b}' first direct opportunity. Capt. Thing- calls on you l>efore you have done this deliver them to him, and oblige Yr Obt. Servt. X. J. W. CLXXXV. Louisville March 3d 1834 Capt. Thing" (Louisville) Dear Sir You will find at Mess Alli- sons & Andersons 3 bbls Alcohol and 1 1 packages Tobacco, provided they do not ship the same before you arrive in this place in which case vou will proceed direct to St. Louis. I am &c N J Wyeth CLXXXvr. Louisville March 4th 1834 Mess Von Phull & McGill St. Louis Gent Above you have Bill Lading of some goods which if they arrive before me please receive and take care of until I come And oblige Yr Obt Servt. N. J. W (Enclosing Bill Ladings 1 1 packages Tobacco, 3 bbls alcohol and 3 coils of manilla rope.) CLXXXVII. Louisville March 5th 1834 Mess. Tucker & Williams (Boston) Gent Permit me introduce to your accjuain- tance Mr Ira G. Smith from him you can obtain much useful in- formation in regard to the Santa Fee buisness in w^hich he has been engaged some years. Any assistance which you can render him in Boston will much oblige your Obt. Ser\'t Nathl. J. Wyeth CLXXXVIII. Louisville March 4th 1S34 Mr. Jas. Brown Boston Dear Sir Herewith I introduce to your ac- quaintance Mr. Ira G Smith. Any politeness or attention which 3^ou can shew him will much oblige 3^our old friend Nathl. J. Wyeth CLXXXIX. Louisville March 5th 1S34 Bro. Charles (Baltimore) Allow me to introduce Mr. Ira G. Smith an acquaintance of mine to you. He is just from Santa Fee and will amuse you with long storys of Indians &c. Shew him what attention vou can and oblige Yr afte Bro Nathl. J. Wyeth i8o] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 123 One of the above to I^eond. I. W3'eth. CXC. St. Louis March loth 1834 Mess Samuel & More Gent. Since mine of 12th ulto. I have not heard from you and do not know what you have done in re- gard to Horses, mules and men and desire that as soon as possi- ble you would inform me. I shall engage here if possible 20 men but shall not purchase animals. The riding saddles please get as heretofore ordered. While in Philadelphia I saw Mr. Samuel with whom I ar- ranged in regard to money matters and he informed me that he had written you on the subject. In addition to the monej^ that you have received from Mess Von Phull & McGill and the letter of Cr. from T. C. Rockhill & Co. I shall want about $3000 which in all will be about 5400^. Please inform me if this will [be] convenient at your earliest opportunity. And oblige Yr Obt Servt Nathl. J. Wyeth. CXCI. St. Louis March nth 1834 Mr Jas. Brown Dear Sir Expecting, as usual, to be a little short of fulfilling my engagements to the company with which I am concerned I have to request of you the favor of getting a dis- count for me provided they call for it. I have left with Tucker & Williams a note against F. Tudor for $300 also one against Jonas Wyeth 2nd$iooo, These you know are perfectly good and if not formal can be used collateralh- and are due about the ist Sept and Dec. next. If you are not at liberty to endorse owing to stipulations with your partners 3^ou might probably get the Colonel by 7£'av of iviportance to do it or some one else. If you will exert your self in this matter you will essentially serve me. I shall write to T & W. to call on 5^ou for this purpose if the}^ find it requisite. Yours of the 17 ulto. was received am sorry your neighbors are cracking and glad that 5^ou are not. Shall write you again just as I leave the world. Yr Afte Friend, N. J. W. CXCII. St. lyouis March nth 1S34 Mess Grant & Stone Gent. This is to inform you that I have this daj' drawn on 5'ou for $1000 at 10 daj^s sight fav- Mess, of A. and 124 CORRESPONDENCK: [iSi G. W. Ken"'- No ii for the amt. of which please draw on Mess. Tucker & WilUams Boston as arrang-e[d] and oblige yr. ob Servt. X. J. W CXCIII. St. Louis March 13th 1S34 Mess Tucke[r] & Williams Boston Gent. Your favours of the 1 8th and 22nd ulto. are at hand. I presume you have before this received my letter of 21st Feb from Baltimore and 26th ulto from. Pitsburgh. Your letters of Cr. on the Branch Bank here for $4000 I shall not be able to use and I have already drawn from this place on Mess. Grant & Stone for $1000 10 days sight. For remaining $3000 of this credit I shall endeavour to get the time provided by 3'our letters with the bank, from Samuel and More. But Mr. Samuel having gone to Liberty the day before your letters were received and having made an arrangement with him it might be a serious disappointment to him not to obtain my bills to make his pay- ments at the East but still it will amt. to about the same thing as the bills will be drawn much later. Had your letter arrived one day earlier I should have avoided drawing say No. 11 at so short a sight. The Cr. of $5500 to be used from the Mountains is entireh' satisfactory. The Traps will be in Season under ordinary- circumstance and I have taken out an open policy for $3300 from Pitsburg to this place on such goods as may be shipped at i pr ct. I note that you have written to Mess Samuel & More. Mr. Coxe charges on drafts one per ct. and Interest 6 pr ct. I have hired here for 3 years one man $300 pr An. one for $250 per An. 18 at $250 for 18 mos. time to expire in the Indian country. Advances and Horses will exceed the estimate I think but can not yet say how much. I arrived here the loth inst having had as I believe the Cholera on the route but am now well. Fitzpatric was robbed by the Crow Indians of his horses and goods but has made 2300 lbs. Beaver and 2 of his parties not heard from when he w^rote. Should his other parties do as well it will be a good hunt after all. Seaton sends out a party of about 40 men and we propose to join company through the dangerous country. This with super- numeraries will make us about t 20 strong enough to flog all the Indians in the country. Of my own funds here I shall not be able to collect more than 600$. In the mean time I have written to Mr. James Brown firm of Hilliard, Gray «& Co who is my at- torney to get discounted some of the notes which I left with you which under any ordinan,' circumstances he will and can very readity do if you will call on him and this is all the arrangement "■■Written "Can" when previously mentioned. i82] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 125 which I can make to meet any deficiency that may appear against me. The Cash paid by me from my own funds in this place will not exceed $600., which is in addition to what stands to my Credit with you. I this day received a letter from the Gov. of the Hudsons Bay Co. in London in regard to the proposition which I made them and of which you have a copy in my letter of Nov. 8 18,^3 de- ferring a definite answer to the same until the express from the Columbia was received it appears that their ships were last year frozen up at Hudsons Bay in consequence of which they had no news from the Columbia of the year in which I was there. & &c N. J. W. CXCIV. St. Louis March iSth 1834 Bro. Jacob I had hoped to find you here or at least a letter from 3'^ou but do not, and therefore write to say a sort of farewell before I again encounter the uncertainies of the wilderness. After leaving you at the rendesvous we moved on with tolerable comfort and success in the way of Hunting and trading until we arrived at the Coast where we found the vessel that I had expect- ed had been lost. This was a signal for the rest to desert and truly I was glad to be rid of them altho thereby all the pro- ceeds of the expedition were sacrificed or buried in the Mountains. I then commenced m^^ return with two hired men and during the time from the ist March last until the loth Oct. madem^^ way to vSt. Louis and in due time home. The old concern being dis[s]olved, I formed a new one and am nowonmywa}^ to the Columbia having sent a vessell round the Horn and am taking a company of 50 men overland to go over again the toils and suffering and perhaps the losses of which you saw a part, and this will either make or break me. Thvis much for myself. I hear that you are doing well and have far the best practice in your place. Industry wall keep this and economy will make it ample for your wants. Yrs. of the 8th Dec. last I received and mark that you say that your "prospects are great and getting better, as you alwa^^s knew the}' would be, if once disengaged from your friends as they ///dicro[u]s/]' stile themselves who have alwa5\s weighted you down &c stifling all your energies &c. " Whether friendly to you or not or whether I ever stated myself to be, im- ports nothing and whether you intended me or others imports as little. All the comment I can make on the passage, is to. a.sk you, who supported your early life of idleness and dissipation, until it was beyond the power of any friends to do it longer? and who on your return from the Mts. enabled you to avail yourself of your present prospects? I have never yet read a passage which so strongly indicated the truth of one of Rochefocaulds maxims viz. T26 CORREvSPONDENCE: [183 "If you would wish to mak^ a man your irreconsilable enemy do him a kindness he cannot repay["]. I have done ^-ou the favor not to shew this letter to your friends believing that you did not appreciate the words when you wrote them and that it might be only an ex- ebition of that inconsiderateness which forms a part of your char- acter. I hear that you are to be married and to one who is said to be worthy of you or any one else. Altho you do dot seem to allow that I should call myself your friend yet perhaps you will admit me to sug[g]est that economy will be the best mode to maintain that independency which you have now so fully declared more es- pecially as in regard to it I have been wanting as well as yourself. Be assured that much of the comfort of your married life will de- pend upon your being able to maintain a respectable appearance among your acquaintance. Want and pleasure do not associate, and beside if your income can be made sufficient nothing would be more to your credit than to pay oif some of your small debts to the Eastward. This would make your father much more com- fortable than he now is and would in the end I have no doubt aflfbrd you more pleasure than you could purchase with the same money in any other way. It affords m3'Self and your other friends no little pleasure to hear that your exertions are praiseworthy and that at last you are likely to make a man of yourself that you have quit all sorts of dissipation and have formed industrious habits. That you may continue in this c[o]urse is the sincere wish of Yr afte Bro N. J. W. CXCV. St. Louis March 19th 1834 Mr Nuttall Dear Sir Capt Thing informs me that you wait informa- tion from me before ^v^ou leave Philad. I can not tell exactly what time I shall leave St. Louis, but of this I am certain that you will have no time to spare after you receive this and when you arrive at St. Louis call on Mess Von Phull & McGill who will inform you if I have gone up the river in which case follow as fast as you can. At Libert^^ or Independence you will hear if I have started and how long. If I have not been gone more than three or four days with a good horse you will easily overtake me before 3^ou come to any dangerous country following the trail of my horses. I shall probably not leave Independence before the 25th April and perhaps not quite so soon. Much depends upon the grass whether it is fit to feed the horses or not. At present appear- ences indicate an earl}^ spring. I am Vr Obt. Servt. Nathl. J. Wyeth i84] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 127 CXCVI. St. Louis March 21st 1S34 Mess Samuel & More Gent Enclosed you have list of men which I send up. The passage is $5.50 a piece which please pay for all that are delivered, and when the}" arrive please find some house where they can stop and cook their food. Supply them with pro- visions until I come and let them cook for themselves. I shall be up in the next Boat. I have paid the Capt $25 which please deduct from his bill unless he shows that he has supplied these men with provisions which he is authorized to do in case those on board run short. Yr &c N. J. W. P. S. Having- blkts on the route I have given these men none. If you could hire their lodging cheap I would pa^^ for it or get them some bedding until I come b}^ pajdng for the use of it. Also authorizeing Mess. Samuel & More to pay one dollar extra for any of the men who did not wood on the way and in proportion to the distance if thev should desert. N. J. W. CXCVII. St. Louis March 28th 1834 Mess Samuel »& More Liberty. Gent Your fav. of 20 inst came to hand to day. I am sorry that j-ou have made a contract for saddles at 10$ each. You have either mistaken the kind I wanted or have paid far too much. Such as I wanted without stir[r]ups or girths as I ordered them can be had here at $4 each. Please get off from taking as many as you can of these saddles, and if you have not already- engaged 6 better ones that I ordered yoii may leave it until I come. You do not tell me what you are giving for animals or how manj^ you have bought. I shall probably come up on the next Boat say in about eight days from the time you receive this. In the mean time I remain Yrs &c. Nathl. J. Wyeth CXCVIII. St. Louis March aSth 1734 Bro Leond Allow me to introduce to your acquaintance an uncle of Bro Jacobs intended, Col. Geo. W. Jones of Galena. He gives so good an account of the Doct. that I know 3'^ou will take great pleasure in conversing with him Yr. afte Bro. Nathl. J. Wyeth I2S CORRESPONDK^XE: [1S5 CXCIX. vSt. Louis ^Nlarch 31st 1834 Dear wife (Cambridge) Your fav. of 13th came to baud this moruing and was very acceptable. I am glad to find you will take some care of the trees. Perhaps they will not grow for our use but some one will get the benefit and it will be pleasant to leave even such a mem- orial of our having once existed. It is true that Mr. Fit/.patric was robbed by the Crow Indians but I was in hopes that you would not hear of it. I knew it before I left Cambridge but did not wish to alarm you. I do not think there is much danger with so large party as I shall have. Mr. Nuttall and Mr. Townsend another naturalist passed through this place to the rendezvous last week and their goods went by the vessell so there is no doubt of his going. The Missionarys came here this morning. Mr. Abbot is at the rendezvous taking care of the horses. Batiste and the Indian I have also sent up to the rendezvous. Batiste continues a pretty good boy. I shall think of your request for seeds and pretty stones while I am on m^* way out, and certainly shall not forget my promise to send for you if there is any chance of doing so with propriety but 5^cu must not be too sanguine a thousand circumstances may prevent it altho I desire it much. I feel as much as you can do the lonesomeness of my wa}^ of life but you knovv' the success of what I have undertaken is life itself to me and if I do fail in it they shall never say that it was for want of perseverance. But this is my last attempt and if I am not suc- cessfull I must come home and endeavour the best way I can to get a living and to pay my debts which will theti be heavy. Still I am yet sanguine that I shall succeed. I will take good care of m3'self and perhaps the life which began in turmoil may yet end in quiet and peace and our sun go down from a clear sky. I should be desolate indeed if I thought that the residue of life was to be as unsettled as the past, and I cannot but reproach my- ' self that I have made you in some measure a widow while you ought to be enjoying yourself. I am afraid that you will brood over hopes that have been blasted by me who should have been with you to fulfil them and at hand in time of need to cherish and support. These things make me melancholy and I half be- lieve I have got the Blues. Jacob writes me that he is about getting married. The people from Galena all say that he is doing well. I hope .so but cant, help doubting whether it is permanent. Good l)ye My Dear wife and may God bless you. N. J. Wyeth i86] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 129 CC. St Louis April 3rd 1834 Mess Samuel & More Liberty Gent. Your fav. of the 28tli ulto. came to hand this evening. I note that you are getting horses. 1 20 horses if good would do me. To this number you can pur- chase. If you can get mules allow that 3 are as good as 4 Horses. As to price you are the best judges, but I am in hopes that 30$ a piece will buy good horses and $40 mules. I wrote you on the 28 ulto. about saddles &c. I do not wish you to do any- thing more until I come in regard to any thing except Horses and mules. Please get the animals shod as fast as you buy them. I am on the loway with all my goods and leave this in the morn- ing and have hired men enough with the 20 I have before sent you except 6 which please engage if you can find cheap and good but not otherwise. I am yr obt. Servt. N. J. Wyeth CCI. vSt. Louis April 3d 1834 Mess Grant & Stone Philad. Gent. I have drawn on you this da^^ fav. of Mess Yon Phull & McGill 90 days sight No 12 for $700 for which amt you will draw on Mess. Tucker & Williams as arrang- ed and oblige yr. obt. Servt. N. J. W. ecu. St. Louis Ap 3d 1834 Mess Tucker & Williams (Boston) Gent I have this day drawn on 3'ou No 13. $600 90 days sight fav. H. S. Coxe cashier of the U. S. Bank in this city, also this day No 12 on Mess, Grant «& Stone Philad. $700 90 dys sight of which I have advised them. All the goods have arrive here and are reshipped and insured to Liberty. I shall leave this in the boat in a few minutes and shall write you in full from the upper settlements forwarding acts[.] of disbursements and the certain arrangements of the expedition. I am yr. Obt. vServt. N. J. W CCIIL Independence Ap. 17th 1S34 Mess Tucker & Williams Gent. Your fav. of the 21st vilto. came to hand to day. The last of mine which you acknowledge is of the I St March since which I have written you advising of the follow- ing draft viz A and G. W. Ken 10 days sight on Grant & Stone No. II |iooo March nth — Von Phull & McGill 9[o] days on T30 CORRESPONDENCE: [187 Grant and Stone No. 12 $700 April 3d — H. vS. Coxe 90 days on Tucker & Williams No 13 $600 dollars Ap. 3d making about $6062.45. The amt you speak of as paid for Abbot was not paid on Company ace. but on my own. He gambles but is usefull to us and owes us too much to have him stopped. To day I have drawn on you No. 14 fav. H. S. Coxe 90 days $343.37 also same on same date and time $3000 making in all to this date about 9500$ and there will be yet some more. Several items not included in the first estimate conduce to this such as insurance of these vions, [?] passage for myself, Abbot, Thing and two Indians. The op- position of the 4 companies have made me pay heavy advances on men and high prices for horses, in addition to which I have been obliged to advance about $500 to Milton Sublette which arose from this circumstance viz last year Sublette & Campbell took out to the mountains Capt Stewart & Doct. Harrison and author- ized Milton Sublettes Company to credit them and draw for the amt. These drafts Sublette & Campbell refused to honor and pay as soon as the}' ascertained that we were to supph' Milton Sublettes Company with goods unless Milton Sublette would re- main at home in which case vSublette & Campbell offered to set- tle the acts, and pay the Drafts. Sublette & Campbell are going out with a party of men & goods to the rendesvous to the moun- tains. Under these circumstances I felt m^'self obliged to make the advance above stated to M. G. Sublette and also to purchase a more expensive kind of animals then I had at first intended in order to be first at the rendesvous which I consider very import- ant. So far I am ahead and shall leave the settlements on the 26th or thereabouts at which time I shall forward you acts, in full, Invoices muster roll &c. I am now packing up. All the goods have arrived here safely. I have 20 more horses to purchase. The season is early and ever>'thitig favorable except that the expense will be greater than has been calculated, but as you do not complain much of hard times I am in hop^s that 3^ou will meet it willingly and re- quest you to believe that even,' exertion has been made to keep it within bounds. There are none of the Dignitaries with me as yet and if they "preach" much longer in the vStates they will loose their passage for I will not wait a minute for them. I am &c N. J. W'yeth CCIV. Indpendence April 25th 1834 Mess Tucker & Williams Gent. To day I drew my last draft on Mess Grant & vStone 30 days sight No 16 2515.66 fav. of Samuel & More. You will be surprised at the amt. I have drawn but with- out abandoning the enterprise I could not avoid it and there being- no chance to refer to you, I have taken the responsibility and i88] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 131 must abide the consequences if 3^ou choose not to ratif}^ my act. I should have drawn on my own means but I have not got them. There have been by the government and the trading compan- ies purchased here above 1000 Horses which accounts for the great increase in the price. I have been obliged to advance to men or not get them and once in for it I have been obliged to pay their other debts, or loose them. Man^^ of them having been taken by the officers. I shall make out Invoices, musters, and accounts due from men and m5^ own account with the concern. These I shall send from the Kansas Agency. I should do it here but officers are continually taking the men and making more expense beside time is of the greatest importance. I go in the morning and can make out these papers at nights. It is like keeping a bag of fleas together to keep the men in this whisky country In haste. You will please pass to m[y] Cr. yr obt. Servt. Nathl. J. Wyeth CCV. Independence April 26th 1834 Mess Tucker & Williams Gent. Notwithstanding what I wrote you yesterday I have drawn to day yet another draft fav. of Mess. Samuel & More No 17 $120 sight which I hope and believe will be the last. I have lost 4 cattle and 2 horses and in case I do not find them to day I shall leave them behind. Excuse my brevit}' at this moment as I have man^' things to do and shall write 5^ou again as advised in mine of j^esterday. Enclosed you have a note of W. Abbot to me which please hold for collection. This is the debt which I paid for him to Sublette & Campbell as advised in mine of ist March from Cin- cinati and credit the same to my ace. and oblige yr obt. Servt. Nathl J Wyeth CCVI. Kanzas River May 2d 1834 Mess Tucker & Williams Gent This is my last this side of the moun- tains and with it you have my ace. with bills and copies of bills that are required as vouchers in the mountains also a list of peo- ple terms of engagements and charges against men. I am not sure that these papers are accurate as the}^ were made up in camp and in very wet weather and much to attend to. I have lost 2 Horses 4 cows. 2 men deserted and I expect some more will. I am the first as yet in the Indian country. Excuse me from writing more as I am fatigued to[o] much. yr obt. Servt. Nathl. J. Wyeth. P. S. I have not sent 3^ou the invoice of my own goods because they will probably be all charged to disbursements in case I send 132 CORREvSPONDENCE: [189 out a trapping party. I have therefore supposed it best to charge all except Sublettes Invoice to Disbursements and credit that ac- count when any part of it was sold. CCVII. Little Vermilion May 8th 1834 Mess Tucker & Williams Gent I am sorry to say that Mr. M. G. Sublettes leg has grown so troublesome that he is to day obliged to turn back and by him I write this. He has given me an or- der on his partner for the amt. of advances made him pa3'able in furs. I regret this circumstance much but it was unavoidable as he was perfecth^ unable to go on. 4 more men have deserted since mine of 2nd inst. 2 men I have hired. No more horses have been lost. The bills and acts, were forwarded by the same conveyance as the letter of the 2nd inst. We have now crossed the Kanzas and are about 60 miles above the Agency or 120 from the western limit of the state of Missouri. In the acts, which I forwarded to you you will observe a mis- take of 343.37 which you will please ctedit to my ace. Wish- ing you all manner of good success and the same m^-self some- what on your account I remain Yr obt Servt. Nathl. J. Wyeth CCVIII. One day this side the Blue May 12th 1834 Dear Sir Wm Sublette having passed me here, I am induced to write to you by this opportunity and hope you will get it. You may expect me by the ist July at the rendesvous named in your letter to Milton which which you sent by Dr. Harrison who opened it and I presume told Wm Sublette of the place. I am not heavily loaded and shall travell as fast as possible and have a sufficient equipment of goods for 3-ou according to contract. Cerre will be much later than me and also the Am. Fur Co. Milton left me a few days since on account of his leg which is ver\' bad. I am 3'r obt. Servt. X. J. W. To Thos Fitzpatric or Co. In the Rocky Mountains. P. S. I have sent a vessell around the Horn with such goods as you want and would like to give you a supply for winter rendesvous or next A-ear on such terms as I know would suit you. CCIX. Sweet Water June 9th 1834 Mess Thomas Fitzpatric & Co. Gent. I send this to inform 3'ou of my approach with your goods. I am now two da\-s behind Wm Sublette, who I presume is with you by this. Milton informed i9o] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 133 me that you would reudesvous near the mouth of the Sandy. In case you do not I wish you would immediately^ inform me by ex- press. I am now one days march above rock Independence and shall continue to come on at a good rate and for the present fol- low the same route which I came by two years since. I wish that you would defer making any contract for carrying home any surplus furs that you have or for a further supply of goods untill I come as I have sent a vessell to the mouth of the Columbia with such goods as you want and am ready to give you a supply for winter randssvous if you wish, or for next year, and also to send home b}^ her, at a low rate, such furs as you may have and can make you advances in St. Louis on them to pay men &c. I am yr. obt. Servt. Nathl. J. Wyeth. CCX. Hams fork of the Colorado of the West June 20th 1S34 Jas. W. Fenno Esq. Atty. at law Boston Dear Sir According to arrangement I write you. I have as 5^et no certain knowledge of how the buisness I am now in will prove, or for how long a time it may detain me. Our getting no furs as 3^et, renders it quite probable that it ma3^ be given up soon. M}' partners may get discouraged, if no returns are made the first year, and if the}' do I shall be compelled to give the thing up. You ma}^ feel yourself quite certain on the return of the first vessell if another is not sent out immediately that I am coming home soon. Hav- ing been the instigator of this enterprise I cannot be the first to abandon it and have no disposition to do so, but if those engaged with me do not support me in a proper manner so as to enable me to prosecute it successfulh' I must turn mj- attention to some other buisness. It is perhaps impertinent in me to advise and quite likely 3'ou will think me interested, nevertheless, if 5'ou will keep yourself aloof from the ice buisness for a time I think there may be an opportunity to commence it more favorably. For some years the buisness has been too successfull to induce proper ideas of its value and if you should enter the buisness as an agent you will run the chance of change of opinion which might be fatal to any project on the subject. Little as the above amounts to it is all that I can say. Affairs have not yet given any de- cided indication to enable me to be more definate. This much to shew you that I have not forgotten the subject. I hope you have got the patent arranged in such a manner that you can clap the screws when occasion calls. Our route hither has been attended with success so far as trav- elling but not otherwise. We have had no fighting and [have] seen few Indians and what horses we have lost have been worn out and not stolen. The companies here have all failed of making hunts, some from quar[r]eling among themselves some from having 134 CORRESPONDENCE: [191 been defeated by the Indians and some from want of horses, and what few furs have been taken have been paid to the men for their ser\aces leaving none for me. I shall build a fort on Lewis River about a hundred and fifty miles west of this which is in Latt.45 deg. 15 min. Long 112 deg. 15 min. and there deposite my goods for sale when there is Beaver to pay for them. While I am here turning Indian probably you are turning civilized that is getting married and settling down to all the comfort that can be imagined, preparing 3'ourself an easy chair for after life. That you may find not thorns when you expect Down is the wish of your friend and Servt. Nathl J. Wyeth. CCXI. Hams Fork of the Colorado of the West June 20th 1834 F. Tudor Esq, Dear Sir With no adventure worth relating in the way of Battle or hardship I arrived here on the 19th inst. having left the settlements on the ist May. And feel it a duty to write to you altho 1 have not much to say. The contracts which I made with the companys here have not been complied with and in consequence I am obliged to establish a fort, which I shall do on Lewis River about a hundred miles west of this for the pur- pose of trading my goods and then leave part of my men at it and then proceed to the Columbia for the further prosecu- tion of the buisness. The failure of adequate returns by the first vessell may possibly discourage those who are concerned in this thing at home and in case you find that a vessell is not sent out as soon after the first returns as possible you may expect to see me soon and in such case with a determination to take any reasonable chance in the ice buisness and stick to it the remain- der of my buisness life. I cannot in conscience ask you to defer any thing for me nor can I be the first to abandon this under- taking having been first in it, but will not prosecute it further than there is a reasonable chance of success. We have here none of what you call the comforts of life but have heart and health, and are yet young and after all not dis- couraged which is one half. If I cannot succeed I will fail after a fair tryal ])ut not l>efore. That you may in the evening of your days enjo}' that comfort and satisfaction for which you have striven so hard and long is the wish of one who feels under heavy obligation to you. I am yr obt Servt. Nathl. J. Wyeth 192] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 135 CCXII. Hams fork of the Colorado of the West June 21st 1834 Leond Jarvis Esq Dear Sir I have not time to write much or much to sa}', but I cannot omit saying a little. So far this buis- ness looks black. The compan5^s here have not complied with their contracts with me and in consequence I am obliged to make a fort on I^ewis River to dispose of the goods I have with me. I think I can in a little time realize good returns, but in the mean- time the concern at home may get discouraged and if they do the whole is spoiled, and I shall be obliged to give up the buisness. After leaving a part of my men to take charge of the fort I shall proceed to the Columbia and probably get there about ist Sept. The place I am now at is Latt 41 deg 45' Long 112 deg. 35'. If I am obliged to return home again it will be to staA' and endeavour to pay off the debts which I will then owe, and believe that I can do so in time with health. Accept Dear Uncle my wishes for your happiness and also that of mv good Aunt, and believe me Yr Afte. Nephew N. J. W. CCXIII. Hams Fork of the Colorado of the West June 21st 1834 Dear Parents I arrived here on the 19th inst without accident after a very quick voyage and no fighting. All as 5^et looks as prosperous as could be expected (you know however that I do not expect much and am therefore not so likel}^ to be dissappointed). I hope you get along in quiet and peace with Jonas. The idea that this may not be the case oc- casions me some uneasiness. I can not say how soon you may expect to see me but of this be certain, that there is little or no dang- er here except of not living quite so well as I could at home. I hope you will do all that you can to make my wife comfortable and happy and yourselves the same. I have many letters to write and not much time at present but shall write 3'ou by the re- turn vessell. lyOve to all. With many wishes for your health and hap- piness I am yr affectionate Son Nathl J Wyeth. CCXIV. Hams Fork of the Colorado of the West June 21st 1834 Dear Wife I have but little to say to you in a letter, but much buisness with you, if I were at home. I got here safe and well, but whether I shall do well is yet uncer- tain but I will try. Miltons leg got so bad that he did not come with me. Mr. Nuttall is w^ell and is cursing the tittle tattle of Cambridge in high stvle. It would do vou sfood to look into 136 CORRESPOXnKXCR: [193 our tent just now and see how fat I am. Be of good cheer and make yourself as happy as you can until I come or send. Give my respects to your mother and Aunt Rebecca and love to Caroline Baptiste send[s] compliments. yr afte. Husband Xathl. J. Wyeth. CCXV. Hams Fork of the Colorado of the West June 21 st 1834 Mr Jas Brown My old friend I cannot write at length but there is a feeling when I w^ite to you that I feel to no one else. In long arraj' comes up the wits and wine the social converse and the sunny side hills of old times. Are they gone forever? Yes from me, but as the hearts of kings tremble at the name of Napoleon, so mine vibrates to the recollections of old joys. I am not now able at once to heave care "over side" and the Bon[n]y Boat the Jovial crew, Chaplain and all would now be insufficient to fill the void. I believe that times of Careless Joy have gone by for me, and speed to them. x\nd now we look forward to those quiet times when the wicked cease from troubling and the weary are at rest. Are the heavens Black or is the gloom in my vision? The latter must be true for still youth and I[n]trepidity look upon as fresh a world as ever and will not believe "hie Transit Gloria mundi to be true." If you think me Blue remember that I am hard to convince and all are unwilling to believe themselves astray. In regard to my affairs manage them as well as you can. My scituation is not such as to justify your incurring any risque on my account. I would like to keep the Colledge lott if possible because I think that let affairs turn as they may I will be able to come home and in a little time clear myself of any incumbrance. I hope 5-our buisness is prosperous and not so burdensome as to destroy comfort. Mine here still looks squally but obstinacy and hope guide the way. Be so good as to give my respects to all friends and especially to your good wife and love to little ones. And believe me as of old vour affectionate friend N. J. Wyeth OCX VI. Hams Fork of tlie Colorado of the West June 21st 1834 Col. E- W. Metcalf Dear Sir As I promised, I write to sa}' that in gallant stile, I bore your acceptable present of a cap over the Rocky Mountains and in perfect saf[e]ty arr[i]ved a[s] far as this on our long route Latt. 41 deg. 45 min. Long Perhaps you may think it strange that I write when I have so little to say I do so to induce a correspondence with one who is 194] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 137 well able to inform me of the state of aifairs at home and who perhaps will be willing to take the trouble to inform me. We have in this country little to interest the mind when once the novelty of white Bears Buffaloes and Indians is worn off which is now pretty well the case with me. Mr. Nuttall is with me and well and has made an immense collection of new plants pre- served also there is a Mr. Townsend who has found a good variety of new birds and preserved them. I shall establish a fort on lycwis River which will be about 150 miles west of this for the purpose of trade and then go to the mouth of Columbia River for the further prosecution of it. Should you consent to correspond ^'•ou can leave your letters at Mess. Tucker & Williams Central Wharf. In the meantime ac- cept for yourself and family my best wishes Respectfully yr obt Servt. Nathl. J. Wyeth CCXVII. Hams Fork of the Colorado of the West June 21st 1834 Bro Charles, All well, but T am afraid not doing as well as might be expected but will do all I can "and then trust to providence." My affairs are at the present in too unsettled a state to express any opinion of the event. I shall write you again by the vessell. In the mean time I am going about 150 miles west of this to build a Fort and that done shall proceed to the Columbia to build another there for fishing and then the Deil knows where after Beaver. Give my love to your wife and believe me that old kindness is not diminished on the contrary I look back to the fondness that has so long sweetened our intercourse as the Brightest spot on memorys green and the brighter for the darkness and desolation which encompasses me. yr. afte Brother Nathl. J. W^^eth CCXVIII. Hams Fork of the Colorado of the West June 21st 1834 Bro. I^eonard I do not know what mood to wTite you in. Is money scarce? If I knew so I would indite you the Blackest kind of a letter and dip m}- pen in gall and wormwood and indulge my own fancy while tallying with yours. Affairs in this region are going bad Murder is rife and dis- trust among themselves makes the whites an easy prey to Indians. There has been little Beaver caught and of that little I get less than I ought. As yet there is no positive indication of the event of this buisness. I shall do all I can and if those at home do not get discouraged it will vet turn out well but of this I am afraid. 138 CORRESPONDENCE: [195 I leave this about the ist July and then go west about a hun- dred and fifty miles W. on the Lewis River to make a fort for trade thence to the Columbia to build another then out trapping and trading- with a party. I shall write 3'-ou by the vessell and hope to have good news to send but if not shall sa}^ nothing. Here are plenty of Buffaloe and other good things to eat and so far no Indians to trouble us, but continual watching is tiresome and at last men get willing to lay down and take their chance. I hope your difficulties have ceased and with less damage to 3'our affairs than you apprehended still I think let what will come 3'ou will fare as well as the best and come out bright at last. Give my respects to Mess. Osgoods and their families and my regular built[but?] hearty good will to you[r] lady and little ones, and believe me yr. afte. Brother Nathl. J. Wyeth. CCXIX. Hams Fork of the Colorado of the West June 30th 1S34 Mess. Von Phull & McGill Gent. I herewith enclose a draft, Fitz- patric Sublette & Bridger on Sublette & Campbell $1002.81 twelve mos. from date dated July ist 1834 also one same parties 4 months $864.12 same date. These drafts or the proceeds of them you will please collect or hold subject to the directions of Mess. Tucker & WiUiams of Boston. I take this opportunity to say that my journey so far has been prosperous and pleasant and attended [with] no accident and to express to you my sincere wishes for your health and prosperity. I am yr. obt. Servt. Nathl. J. Wyeth. CCNX. Hams Fork of the Colorado of the West July ist 1834 Latt. 41 deg. 45 min. Long. 112 deg. 34 min. Mess Tucker & WiUiams Gent. I arrived here on the 17th inst. and Wm Sublette arrived two days before me. This he was enabled to do by leaving one half of his goods and horses on the route, which of course I could not do. On arrival the Rocky Mountain Fur Co. refused to receive the goods alledging that they were unable to continue buisness longer,and that they had dis[s]olved,but offered to pa3' the advances made to M. G. Sublette and the Forfeit. These terms I have been obliged to accept altho they would not even pay the interest on cash advances for there is no Law here. I have also sold a few goods at low prices. The proceeds of the Forfeit &c and Sales after deducting a small amt. for payment of wages of men who have gone home, from this place, I have for- warded to Mess. Von Phull & McGill of Saint Lonis subject to your order, in one draft Four months from date July ist 1834 for 196] WYETirS OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 139 12)^ and for $1002.81 same date 12 months both b}^ Fitz- patric Sublette & Bridget, accepted by Sublette & Campbell of St Louis. In addition to not fullfilling their agreement with me every ex- ertion is made to debauch my men in which thej^ have had some success, but I have hired enough of theirs to make up, and do not fear falling short of troops. These circumstances induce me to quit their neighborhood as soon as possible. I shall proceed about 150 miles west of this and establish a fort in order to make sale of the goods which remain on mj^ hands. I have sent out messengers to the Pawnacks, Shoshonees, Snakes, Nez Perces and Flatheads to make robes and come and trade them at this Post. I am under the impression that these Indians will make a good quantity of Robes whenever they find the^^ can sell them and I believe the Transportation will not be too expensive for the value of the article beside which I have no doubt that toler- able good returns of Beaver may be made at this post. I propose to establish it on a river called Portneuf on Snake or Lewis River. I feel much disappointed that the contract was not complied wdth. Had M. G. Sublette been able to come I think it would have been. I much fear that the gentlemen at home will get dis- couraged if no returns are made the first year. I shall do the best I can but cannot now promise anything immediate. If I find on arrival at the mouth of the River that Lambert has not done much I shall think mj^seif justified in detaining him another year. I have drawn no drafts from these mountains. Bonneville & Co. I have not seen, but he is not far from me on my proposed route. I fear that he has done nothing of conse- quence. I shall endeavour to take home his Beaver what there is of it if I can get an adequate price. I think his concern is finished. I should forward you an Invoice of goods on hand and a memor- andum of transactions here but have not time without delaying ray march. Capt. Thing altho a first rate man is even a worse scribe than myself and it is all we can do to make the proper charges and to look after our men and Horses and having to lose some time in making a fort, time is the more precious. I think that I will be with the vessell about the loth Sept. next and af- ter arranging at the Post on the Columbia shall try my fortune at a winter Hunt for Beaver. I have now with me 126 horses and mules in good order and 41 persons all told that are in the employ, and can hire as man^- more as I want. The amount due for wages is trifling. Almost all the men take up as fast as they earn, and would faster if I would let them, in goods at about 500 per ct. on the original cost. Our expenses after this year will be very small, and I have strong hopes as ever of success notwithstanding appearances so far, I am yrs Nath. J. Wyeth I40 CORRESPONnRNCK: [197 CCXXI. Hams Fork July ist 1834 Mr. G. Sublette Dear Sir I arrived at [the] Rendesvous at the mouth of [the] vSandy on the 17th June. Fitzpatric refused to receive the goods he paid however, the forfieit and the cash advance I made to you this however is no satisfaction to me. I do not accuse you or him of any intention of injuring me in this manner when you made the contract but I think he has been bribed to sacrifice m^^ interests hj better offers from your brother. Now Milton, buisness is closed between us, but you will find that you have only bound yourself over to receive your supplies at such price as may be in- flicted and that all that you will ever make in the country will go to pay for your goods, you will be kept as yoii have been a mere slave to catch Beaver for others. I sincerly wish you well and believe had you been here these things would not have been done. I hope that 3'our leg is better and that you will yet be able to go whole footed in all respects. I am Yr Obt. Servt. N. J. Wyeth. CCXXII. Hams Fork of the Colorado of the West July 2d 1834 Mess Von Phull & McGill Gent. I enclose three small drafts drawn by me on Fitzpatric & Co whole amt. $98.25, which please collect and hold to the order of Mess. Tucker & Williams and oblige Your obt Servt N. J. Wyeth. ccxxrii. Bear River July 5th 1834 Fr[i]end Ermatinger Your esteemed fav. of [the] 12th ulto. reached me by the politeness of Mr. Newell on Haras fork of Green River. Mr. N. also informed me of the particulars of the battle with the Blkfeet. It must have been a capital mixture of Wine and Gun- powder. I am happ3' to hear that you had .some success last year but am afraid that you will do but little this season. I am quite happy to hear that the Doctor remains at Vancouver. I shall .soon have the pleasure of seeing him. I .suppose that Mckay has "thought of it" by this time and perhaps felt of it too, and 3'ou too seem to have done more than thought of it. The latter part of your letter I shall answer when I .see you, which will be, I think in the course of the 3^ear. I am now on my way to meet a ves.sell that I sent from Boston to the mouth of the Columbia and hope to be there b}' the ist Sept. 19S] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 141 You have also enclosed a letter for Mr. Payette whose son is now with me. I i";ame up with goods and about 50 men 130 horses. The goods I will have to leave for sale somewhere her[e]abouts with part of the men. I have got no Beaver and have sold but little and that for Drafts which I hope are good I have again to repeat to you the advice which I before gave you not to come with a small part^- to the Am.. Rendesvous. There are here a great collection of Scoundrels. I have a great desire to see you and repay you in part for all the kindnesses which I received from you last year. Please give m3^ respects to Mr. Horon and all my accquaintances that you maj'' happen to see and believe me yr obt Servt and Fr[i]end Nath. J. Wyeth CCXXIV. Bear River July 5th 1834 Mr Francis Payette Dear Sir I received your esteemed fav. of 14th May from Fort Nez Perces. Your son is now with me and will go to the mouth of the Columbia to arrive there about the ist Sept. He learned to speak English to read write and cypher tolerably well. He learns fast considering how broken his time has been. We teach him a little on the route but cannot do as much as I could wish. He is an active lad and appears contented. I should be pleased to hear from you at all times and especially good news. Letters addressed to the care of the Doctor at Vancouver would reach me. I am yr obt Servt. N J Wyeth ccxxv. vSept I St 1834 (at Grand Ronde) Capt. Bonneville Dear Sir Yours of this morning I have, and in answer can only sa^^ that I shall send a clerk and an outfit of goods up to the Fort as soon as I get down, and shall come my- self with it as far as where you now are, and probably be there in about 7 weeks from this time. I will enlarge the outfit a little so as to ineet this trade, and will trade with them personally at your present camp, if they will be there, or I will send a clerk to them at an^^ place they shall designate, provided the}' do so before my passing Grande Ronde. The time and place must be designated in order that I may give the proper directions to the clerk. I shall bring up goods so that in case you should alter your mind as to purchasing 3'ou could still get a supply. But if I could see 142 CORRESPONDENCE: [199 you personally at the Grande Ronde when I return it is likely that we might make a joint buisness of it. It is ver3' like[ly] that I may detain the Brig until next summer, in which case I would like to freight home your furs, w^hichl will do at 37,^.-2 per lb. Insurance included and receive them at the Grande Ronde. [No signature.] CCXXVI. [No address given.] Sept ist 1S34 Capt. Bonneville Dear Sir I got s^our note of to day late this even- ing, and am obliged to 3'ou for the trouble you have taken. I will meet the Nez Perces at the A-show-to River within 8 weeks. I Hope to meet 5'ou before this, and would be pleased to make a joint affair of it much better than to proceed alone. Your Beaver traded from the Skiuses [Ca3"uses] is so much seized from the common enemy in trade, so far so good. Respectfully' yrs. Nathl. J. Wyeth CCXXVII. Copy of letters of introduction addressed toLeond Jarvis Esq. J. Wyeth, L. I- W^'eth Chas. Wyeth and James Brown in fav. of Capt W. Stewart. Oct. 6th 1S34 Columbia River. Permit me to introduce to your acquaintance Capt William Stewart an English gentleman who has been traveling in the Rocky Mountains during the last year. From his intimate ac- quaintance with the affairs of the Mountains he will be able to satisfy such enquiries as^'ou may wish to make respecting tho.se regions. Any attention that you can shew him will much oblige me. & &o' N.J. W. CCXXVIII. Columbia River Oct 6th 1834 Capt Willam Stewart Dear Sir Enclosed you have a few letters ad- dressed to some of m}' fr[i]ends. They wll be happy to see you and to hear from me and if convienient 3^ou will oblige me by deliver- ing them. Also enclosed you have 5^our account which you can pay to Mess. Tucker & Williams, or to either of the gentlemen to whom the letters are adddressed and request them to do it. I am yr. obt. Servt. N. J. W. CCXXIX. Columbia River Oct. 6th 1834 (40 miles above themouth.) Frederic Tudor Esq. (Boston.) Dear Sir Since mine of 20th June last I have built 20o] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 143 a Fort on Lewis River and raised the Am. Flag in a new region amid the din of powder and the effects of alcohol common on such occasions. I assure j^ou the Fort looks quite as w^arlike as a pile of of ice but not quite so profBtable. After accomplish- ing this I made for this place and met the vessell on the nth Sept. she having then just arrived after a disasterous passage of 8 months caused by being struck b}^ lightening off Valparaiso. Con- sequently I am obliged to delay the vessell until another year which will delay for that period at least any decision as to the duration of this buisness, it looks black enough at the present time to induce an opinion that it must terminate soon one way or the other. I find by some English publications that you[rJ ice adventure to East Indies attracts much attention. Should this branch of your buisness appear to be of value would it not be possible to raise up some trade from this coast to enable you to send vessells from this to Calcut[tja. I think the ice might be obta[i]ned a little north of this, I can not thi.ik of any cargo that could be brought here from the East Indies. I am anxious to hear how the speculation ended and if you find sufficient encouragement to continue it, also how your ordinary ice buisness has succeeded the last year and what has been the result of your coffee affair. Permit me to ask the favour of a letter from, you by the first opportunity. I am now buisy in making an establishment on the Multnomah about 50 miles from its mouth and one on the Columbia at this place. This winter I go up Lewis River to make one more Fort on its waters and one on the south side of the Great Salt Lake. In the Spring I shall return and ascertain if I can put up a cargo of Salmon. With wishes for all manner of prosperity for you, I am yr. obt. Servt. N. J. W. ccxxx. Columbia River Oct 6th 1834 Jas. W. Fenno Esq. (Boston) Dear Sir Since mine of 20th June I have built the Fort that I then mentioned on Lewis River, Long 112 deg. 30 min. W. Latt 43 deg. 14 min. N. I arrived on the Columbia and met my vessell on the nth Sept. she having been struck by lightening on the passage out and detained in consequence to repair at Valparaiso. She entirely missed the salmon season and I am obliged to detain her to another year. I still think of the old buisness and hope if this fails to find an opening left to resume it. When I shall be at home is uncertain. This buisness looks very bad at this time. We have failed in ever^' thing for the first year. I shall do all I can one 3'ear more, which will I think shew whether an3^thing is to be done 144 CORRKSPONDRNCE: [201 here or not, and I will not be long in closing the concern when I find that there is nothing to be made. You will be careful not to make an^^ disclosures as it regards the prospects of our buisness here which might be injvirious. I am anxious to hear from you and obtain information of how the ao'itated question now stands. In the mean time believe me vour obt Servt N. J. \V. CCXXXI. Columbia River Oct 6th 1834 Friend Brown My last was from Hams Fork of the Colorado of the West since which time I have been building a Fort on the Snake or Lewis Fork of the Columbia which I named Fort Hall which took me until the 6th August on which day the Am. Standard was raised in regions remote from its usual habitation and amid the noise of revelry and gun powder it floated in the gaze of the astonished Savages. After accomplishing this I proceeded to the mouth of the Columbia where on the iith ulto. I met our ship. She had on her way out been struck by lightening Vk^hich occa- sioned a detention of three months by which our season for fish- ing was entirely lost. I shall detain her until another j^ear and if she is then not able to bring home good returns I shall close this concern as soon as possible and return home with a flea in my ear. My route from this to the Salmon season ofnext year will be from, this place to Fort Hall Latt. 43 deg. 14 min. N. Long 113 deg 30 min. W. thence to the Great Salt Lake where I propose to build another Fort and thence back to this place to be here by the 15 Ma3' next to be ready for the Salmon. I am extremely' buisy and can not say much but wish you and your family all the good wishes you can imagine Yr fr[i]end and vServt X. J. W. CCXXXII. Columbia River Oct 5th 1*^34 Dear Wife I am here but have had no good luck. The vessell was struck by lightening on her way out and detained so long that the salmon season was past. She will therefore have to remain here until another 5-ear. In the mean time I shall cruise about the countrj' and see what I can find. I have built a Fort on Snake river near the middle of the Con- tinent, one here, and made a farm on the Multnomah. If by another year I find that the buisness is to be successfuU I shall send home for you, if not I will come home myself. I hope you mak[e] your self comfortable and happy. It is the (Mily good policy to enjoy ourselves while we can Yr afte. Husl^and N. J. W. 202] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 145 CCXXXIII. [No address or date] Jacob Wyeth Esq. I am here buisy as can be fitting out parties making farms, Forts, and preparing for next years fishing. The vessell met with an accident which detained her so long on her passage that this years salmon fishing entirelj^ failed. I shall try it one year more and if then there is no better success to be had I shall quit it and come home and attend to whatever buisness I can find wher[e]by to make a living. I hope that no further difficult}^ with our tenant has disturbed your comfort and that all things about the place go on well. From what I heard when I was at St. lyOuis Jacob must be mar- ried by this time and if so I suppose you have heard of it. From the representation of very respectable people from Gelena he is quite a reformed man diligent and successful in his profession and respected by those who know him. The lady to whom he was about to be tied is said to be of the first respectability and every way worthy. I have no doubt that she will exercise a very salutary influence over him. I can not say when you may expect to see me but in the mean- time I am well here and with a little more success could be very happy. I am yr afte vSon N. J. W. CCXXXIV. Columbia River Oct 6th 1834 Brother Leonard I have no good news to impart. The vessell mis- carried owing to having been struck by lightening on her way out so that our fishing is defer[r]ed to another year. After so long an abstiiience I feel hungry for a little success. I have built a Fort as I mentioned in my last on Snake or Lewis River in Latt 43 deg. 14 min N. Long 113 deg. 30 min. W. and raised the Am. Standard in a new region amid the noise of guns and the Sound of revelry. I met the vessell to a day, and two months after both expected to arrive here. I have commenced a fine farm on the Multnomah. Were all I wish to see, and they are not many, here I think I should never wish to return. I journey this winter into the interior to the vicinity of the Great Salt Lake and shall prob- ably make 2 more Forts, and return hither about the 15th Ma3' next to see what can be made of the Salmon fish[e]rys. If at the close oLnext year our prospects are not brighter you may expect to see me back again, following with fresh spirits some new or old plans of profit or improvement. I only write to a'OU to evince that my mind still looks back to the good and worthy that it has left behind, that it compares the 146 CORRP:vSPONDKNCK: [203 Hideous squaw with polished white woman the faithless savage with the upright and buisy white man, and sees the difference. Give my respects to the Mess. Osgoods and their family and my love to your wife and children and let them hear the name of their uncle if they do not see him. Yr. afte Bro. N. J. W. ccxxxv. Columbia River Oct. 6th 1834 Bro. Charles Since my last of June 21st 1834 I l;ave made the establishment then spoken of on Snak[e] River in Latt. 43 deg. 14 min. N Long 113 deg. 30 min. West and raised the Stars and Stripes amid ex- plosions of gun powder and whiskey according to custom, and the}' now wave to the wind in the naked wastes of central America a wonderment to the simple savage who can not con- ceive the meaning of so much disturbance. I have now made a i'arm on the Multnomah on a prairie of about 15 miles long border- ing on the river which is nearly as large as the Ohio surrounded by beautiful and well assorted timber and watered by a good mill stream. The soil is beautiful. If some of the things on which the minds eye casts a "longing Hngering" look where [were] here I might be content to rest from my labors and lay my bones in this remote wild. I leave here in a few days on a voyage to the interior and shall establish two more Forts one of which will be near the Great Salt Lake if I can find any tribe of Indians who can give trade enough to support it. You must excuse my writing short letters I have much to do in a short time and some things that can not be ommitted. (iive my respects to Mr. Norris and family, and be assured of ray best wishes for you and yours Yr Afte Bro. Xathl J Wyeth CCXXXVI. Columbia River Oct. 6th 1834 Leond. Jarvis Ksq. Dear Uncle Since mine of June 21st from Hams fork I have as I then proposed built a Fort on Snake or Lewis River in Latt 43 deg. 14 min. N. and Long 113 deg. 30 min. \V. which I named Fort Hall from the oldest gentleman in the concern. We manufactured a magnificent flag from some un- bleached sheeting a little red flannel and a few blue patches, sa- luted it with damaged powder and wet it in vil[l]a[i]nous alcohol, and after all it makes, I do assure you, a very respectable appear- ance amid the dry and desolate regions of central America. Its Bastions stand a terror to the sculking 204] WVETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 147 Indian and a beacon of saf[e]ty to the fugitive hunter. It is man[n]ed by 12 men and has constantly loade[d] in the Bastions 100 guns and riiles. These bastions command both the inside and the outside of the Fort. iVfter building this Fort I sent messengers to the neighboring nations to induce them to come to it to trade, and am now about starting with an equipment of goods tor the winter trade. After leaving these at the Fort I shall locate and build two more one of which will be scituated near the Great Salt L,ake. I shall return to this place about the 15th May next to see what can be done in the Fishing buisness. I am now about 75 miles from the mouth of the river, on the South Side. We have built a few buildings for store houses, smiths and Cooper shops, and dwellings. We are near the mouth of the Multnomah. About 40 miles up this river I have begun a farm on a beautiful prairie of about 15 miles long one end touching the river a good mill stream in the center the whole surrounded with good and well assorted timber, of fine soil and mild climate, much game, in fact all that a man ought to have, but still one is tempted to exclaim "Oh solitude, where are the charms that philosophers have seen in Thy face?" After building Fort Hall as beforCeJ stated I pro- ceed[ed] hither and on the 14th ulto. met the Brig then just arrived and coming up the river to find me. She was struck by lightening on the way out which oc- casioned a delaA' of about 3 months in consequence of which our fishing season was entirely lost. I shall therefore detain her until another season and then try. We suffered nothing coming out but lived sometime very short and poor after leaving the Buffaloe country but this is what all who come this way must expect. I have given a letter of introduction to Capt. William Stewart of the British army to you. He is a gentleman of high famih' and general attainments and having travelled in the Mountains for upwards of a 3'ear past, I thought that you might be pleased to see him. Now^ I desire that you will give my best compliments to my aunt and assure her that all the time I have been addressing m}- self to you I have been thinking of her and her many kindnesses of old times, this is not a country in which I forget the ladies. I am yrs. &c. N. J. W. CCXXXVII. Copy of note left for Mr. Richardson at the mouth of a fork of the River Des Shutes. Jany. 7th 1S35 Mr Richardson Sir In case I return to this place before you I shall leave a note on this pole with directions. I think you 148 CORRESPONDRXCE: [205 had not in an}- case better stay up this fork more than three weeks, unless the prospect for beaver is very good. At the time you arrive here if 3^ou find no note from me, 3'ou can either go up the stream in search of beaver, and remain until I send the horses, or send for you, or return to camp as j^ou like. When I go down I shall leave notice at the mout Ja of each creek in order that you may know my movements, and if you follow me up stream I wish you to leave a notch cut in my poles, one up one down in order that I may know if you are above or below me. Also at each creek that 5'ou go up leave a peeled pole and one also on vour return. Yrs NathlJWyeth CCXXXVIII. Wappatoo Island Ap 3d 1835 Friend Weld I write, bnt do not know when I will have an op- portunity to send. I am in the mood which you know is always enough for me. If I were at Cambridge the wine would suffer to night and you prett}' well know who would be the compan}-. I have had a severe winter of it. All my men have been sick ex- cept myself and one man and nothing but pure obstinacy- has kept me from being hauled up. It may be interesting to you to know a little of what I am doing. In the first place I got here somehow not worth relating. When here found my Brig not ar- [r]ived but outside the bar. Went down the river and met her coming up. This was on the nth Sept. and entire!}' after salmon time. Her late arrival was occasioned by having been struck with lightening and being in consequence obliged to put in to Valparaiso to repair. After shaking hands, set about arranging a party to send to a Fort which I have built among the Rocky Mts. This party consisted of Capt. Thing 13 Sandwich Islanders and 8 whites. They proceeded about 200 miles up the Columbia in- land at the same time I took a party of 4 Sandwich Islanders and 16 whites and followed inland 150 and got news that Capt Things Islanders had all run away from him. This obliged me to spare all my Islanders, and all but 6 of my whites to enable Capt. Thing to proceed to Fort Hall. With the residue I pro- ceeded to look up the deserters. I struck south thinking that they might have started for California. This was the middle of Nov. During Dec. Jany. and Feb. I got no news from them. About the first of March I heard that some of them were near the Columbia. On this I changed my route and struck that river where I learned from the Inds. that 7 of them had passed down five days before. I followed and overtook them about 80 miles from the mouth of the river 7 in number and took them to Fort William our eslal)lishment on Wappatoo Island about 75 miles up the Columbia at the mouth of the Multnomah. Two were 2o6] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 149 killed b^' the Indians one was drowned and one froze to death in the Mts. and two are still unac[c]ounted for as yet. On arriving here I set about preparing- for fishing. Have commenced a house Boat 70 feet long for a conveyance about to the different fisherys. Have finished a canoe 60 feet long 3 feet wide 2 Yz deep of one tree which has not a shake or [k]not in it, and this after cutting off thirty feet of clear stuff from the same tree, and still this is by no means a large tree here. I think I could find trees here free from shakes or [kjnots that would square 4 feet one hundred feet long. It is quite a job to make one of these canoes. I have heard to day that our Brig has arrived at the mouth of the river from the Sandwich Islands whither she went last winter with a cargo of Lumber, and I expect more buisness more company and more provisions soon the last not the least desirable of the three. This Wappatoo Island which I have selected for our establishment is about 15 miles long and about average of three wide. On one side runs the Columbia on the other the Multnomah. It consists of woodlands and praire and on it there is considerable deer and those who could spare time to hunt might live well but a mortality has carried off to a man its in- habitants and there is nothing to attest that the3^ ever existed ex- cept their decaying houses, their graves and their unburied bones of which there are heaps. So you see as the righteous people of New England say providence has made room for me and without doing them more injury than I should if I had made room for myself viz Killing them off. I often think of the old knot of cronies about the town with whom I used to spend so much time especi- al[l]y of an evening. When I sit down in m}' lodge on the ground and contrast the past with the present and wonder if the future will give as much difference and which way the difference will be for better or worse? It has rained almost continually from last Oct. to this time but still there has been no cold weather except in the mountains at great elevations. Now I do not wish this letter published I do hate every thing in print. I am yr Friend and Servt. Nathl. J. Wyetli CCXXXIX. Fort William Sept 6th 1S35 Frederic Tudor Esq. Sir My last was dated Oct. 6th 1S34 from this place. I have not received one letter from the States since I left. A package came into the Indian country for me but fell into the hands of another Co. and was detained. Possibly you might have writ[t]en b}^ that channel. This buisness has not been successful in any of its branches therefore it will terminate soon. I shall not order another equipment to this country until I see again I50 CORRRSPONDKXCE: [207 those concerned with me, and if I know the people they wall be the last to go very far in any buisness that commences unprofit- ably. If I meet with no fatal accident I shall be in Boston by the ist Nov. 1836 and probably if any opening opens adequate to my wants I shall not after leave it. I need not disguise from you that I must have a living somewhere and that there is no kind of buisness for which I am in any way competent except my original vo- cation, which I so heartily det°st that I will loose my scalp before I will reengage in it, and the Ice buisness, and that in the latter I have no prospect except through yourself. The buisness I am in must be closed not that it might not be made a good one but because those v/ho are now engaged in it are not the men to make it so. The smallest loss makes them "fly the handle" and such can rarely succeed in a new buisness. This your own ex- perience will justify. Personally I have no means to prosecute the buisness further and, however mortifying, must give it up. My intention is to return and if I can obtain an}^ scituation that I am not ashamed of, to remain, if not the woods will alway[s] sup- ply the wants of one who is not lazy and where pride is not con- cerned ^vants but little. These things I state in plain language because I for[e]see that when I may arrive in Boston the case will admit of no delay. I have then to make the last election of my course for life and whether such course prove comfortable to my- self or not I shall stick to it. I cannot hope after wliat I have done that 5'ou should have so much regard to my wishes as to alter any arrangement that you ma^' have made of your buisness in order to give me a place but I am bound to avail myself of all the chances in my reach to live. Since writing 3^ou last we have lost by drowning, vScalping &c 14 persons none by natural death altho the country is sickly. Loss of property from hostility of Indians has been considerable. I have taken the liberty to send you a >^ bbl. of plain salt- ed salmoti w^hich I hope you will find good. We do not this year send home more than half a cargo. I am off for the Interior about the first next month. The winter will not admit of starting later. I am therefore obliged to trust the putting up of the salmon for my friends at home to Capt. Lambert. .Should there be any unsuitableness in it, I ask you to excuse it with the same good feeling you used to overlook more serious failings. I am Your obt Servt. Xathl. J. Wyeth CCXL. Fort William Sept 6th 1S35 Friend Brown Doubtless you have observed in your quondam associ- ate some small imperfections, and altho he may now have no 2o8] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITlONvS. 151 temptation, yet the grain raa^^ be stil[l] in him. A quotation from an author you used sometimes to read will do for his creed "My son these maxims make a rule, And lump them ay the gether; The rigid righteous is a fool. The rigid wise anither: The cleanest corn that e'er was dight May hae some p^des o' Chaff in; So ne'er a fellow creature slight For random fits o' daffin.["] I am disappointed in not having rec[e]ived a single letter from home since I left the frontier settlements, while others have. I ktiow it is not reasonable that those who loose but one compan- ion should feel as much as those who loose all. A letter to the last is in the shape of food to the hungry man. The benevo- lent bestow in proportion to the want, therefore you should write me two letters for one. I am not scolding you for your good but for my own. I am in hopes to make you write either by force or fraud but whether 3'ou do so or not I am determined to continue the correspondence until 5^ou acknowledge me to be as bad as the old man who rode Sind Bad the Sailor and perhaps you may get rid of me in the same way. My last was dated Oct. 6th 1834 from this place since which time there has been the Devils own work in this Country 14 of our people drowned and killed and much property lost. Personally I am still happy go lucky with only a broken toe and two or three upsettings in cold water. This you know I am used to. I ex- pect to come to Boston about Nov. ist 1836, perhaps to stop. We this year put up about a half a cargo of Salmon y'z bbl. of which you will find marked with your name also one for m}' Father one for my wife for Leond Jarvis Chas Wyeth Leond I Wyeth. N. J Wyeth and Frederic Tudor. Any expense please charge to me. Will you give my sincere respects to your wife and a kiss all the little ones known and unknown and believe me one of those whose friendships hold from youth to age who has some ac- quaintances who are not friends and some friends who are not ac- quaintances and one who is friend and acquaintance, and ovXy one. Yrs &c Nathl. J. Wyeth. ccxu. Columbia River Sept 20th 1835 Leonard Jarvis Esq. (Baltimore Md.) Dear Uncle My last was from this place dated Oct. 6th 1834. We have had a bad season for salmon. About half of a cargo only obtained. The salmon part of the buisness will never do. I have sent V2 a bbl. to you which you will re- ceive through Mr. Brown. Capt. Lambert attends to putting 152 CORRESPONnENCH: [209 them up, oil the voyage, as there is not time for me to do so be- fore. If there should be any thing wrong you will excuse it on this account. I am now a little better from a severe attack of billions Fever. I did not expect to recover, and am still a wreck. Our sick list has been this summer usually about one third the whole number and the rest much frightened. 13 Deaths have oc- curred beside some in the interior killed by the Indians. Some property has been lost also by Indians. I leave this in a few days for the interior to winter at Fort Hall. I intend in the spring to return to this place and take up goods then I shall turn my face toward the rising sun, and hope to have the pleasure of see- ing you about the last of Oct. 1836. I some think of taking the route b3' Santi Fee and N. Orleans but hostilities of the Indians render it uncertain what route I may be obliged to take but without serious accident I shall not be far from that time. I am surrounded with difficulties beyond any former period of my life and without the health and spirit requisite to support them. In this scituation you can judge if memory brings to me the warn-, ings of those (wiser and older) who advised a course which must at least have resulted in quietness. Yes memory lends its powers for torment. A few days ago she told me a tale which carried me back to early life, led me through the varying shades of days and years w^hile at every step the tale grew darker and at last delivered me to [the] horrors of the present time. What at that moment they were you may imagine, a buisness scattered over half the deserts of the earth, and myse[l]f a powerless lump of matter in the extremity of mortal pain with little hope of surviving a day and if it could have been said "he never existed" glad to go down with that sun. But with coming health comes also a sense of the obligations that we are under and say to us "Up and be doing." The above mv Dear Uncle are the clouds of sickness they will pass off before 1 reach the mountains and the clear air of the upper country. I have received no letters from home since leaving. There has been however a great number intercepted by one of the Cos. in the mountains as I have heard. Perhaps you have written by that route. You will remember me to my z'\unt desire her to accept that affectionate regard which she deserves from me. That she may pass without vicis[s]itude through Ufe is the wish of at least one of her old pets. I will not presume to wish you any definite good wish but only that all things may tend to complete and fulfil your happiness. believe me Dr Sir Yr Affte. Nephew Xathl. J. Wyeth CCXLII. Columbia River Sept. 2 2d 1835 Bro Charles ( Baltimore) I am too buisv and too unwell to write 2io] WYETH'S OREGON EXPEDITIONS. 153 much even to you It sometimes appears to me that the nearer the person is to whom I write the less competent is the mode to the ideas I would wish to express. However this may be one thing I know. That to m^^ best friends I always write the short- est letters in fact I had nearly writ[t]en 3'ou as short an epistle as Caesars to the Senate viz "I am sick dead and buried" and 3^et I am not "the Scipper" but the last principle of humaii life is not extinct. Hope still maintains her throne and throws the mists, of futurity over the deformities and misfortunes that she cannot hide. Our salmon fishing has not succeeded. Half a cargo only ob- tained. Our people are sick and dying off like rotten sheep of billions disorders. I shall be off by the first next month to the mountains and winter at Fort Hall. In the Spring I shall return here then again to Fort Hall and start about June to see all in the States, luck}^ if I get through with all this without accident. I have sent Y-z a bbl. Salmon to you which you will receive through Mr. Brown. I hope they will be good but as I cannot personall}^ attend to putting them up I will not insure it. Now Charley may God give you to enjoy life, may the wife be all a wife should, and may the children be the solace of your age. I am Yr. afte Bro Nathl. J. Wyeth. CCXLIII. Columbia River Sept. 220 1835 Bro. Leonard (N York) You often complain of short letters but as I get no return at all even short ones are enough for you. Salmon half a cargo one third of our people on the sick list continuall}^, 17 dead to this date is the amount of the summer. I am but just alive after having been so bad as to think of writ- ing up m^' last letters. I send you >^ a bbl. of Salmon but as I can not attend to putting them up myself you will excuse any imperfection. You will re- ceive them through Mr. Brown. I am off for the Mts. to winter at Fort Hall in about 6 days. I hope the winds of the hills will bring me up. I intend to return to this place in the Spring then to Santi Fee thence home by about the last of Oct. 1836. Please give my compliments to m}' sister and an affectionate kiss to all m}' little nieces and nephew. My respects also to the Messrs Osgoods and believe me yx afte. Bro. Nathl J W^^eth CCXLIV. Columbia River Sept 2 2d 18 33 [5] Dear Parents I avail myse[l]f of the last opportunitj' of writing 154 CORRRSPONDRXCK: [21 1 you for some time. I expect to be home b}- the ist Nov. next year therefore this will be m}' last until I see you. I have sent you % bbl. of Salmon which you will get through Mr. Brown. I hope they will prove good but I could not put them up my- self therefore if they are not quite right lay it to anyone but me. I have been ven,' sick but have recovered. The season has been very sickly and we obtained but about a half a cargo of Salmon. I am off for the mountains in about 6 da3^s. You may be sure I am much hurried or I would write a longer letter. I am yr afte. Son Xathl. J. Wveth. CCXLV. Columbia River Sept. 22d 1835 Dear Wife I have been voxy sick but have got well and shall be on my way to the Mts. to winter at Fort Hall in about 6 days. I expect to be home about ist Nov. 1836. Mr Nuttall is here and well. I have sent you y^ bbl. Salmon which I hope will be in good order, I can not attend to putting them up myself there- fore they may not be so good. The season has been ver^^ sickly. We have lost by drowning and disease and warfare 1 7 persons to this date and 14 now sick. Keep up good spirits my dear wife for I expect when I come home to stop there and altho I shall be poor yet we can always live. I hope to find m}^ trees growing when I come and all things comfortable. I think this will be the last until I see you. Give my respects to j^our mother and Aunt Rebecca my love to Sister Mary and Bro. Perry if you see them. And believe me Yr afte Husband N. J. W. For letters after this date see small letter Book. [The book referred to has not vet been found.] JOURNAL OF CAPTAIN NATHANIEL J. WYETH'S EXPEDITIONS TO THE OREGON COUNTRY. [The book containing the Journal has been mutilated. There are traces of the removal of four leaves just preceding the page that has the first of the narrative preserved. According to "Wyeth's Oregon Expedition" the Wyeth party on his first expedition left Independence, Mo., May 3rd., 1832. June 6th would thus have been the thirty-fifth day on the route.] [June 6th, 1832.] gray and my face like a plumb pudding the skin is entirely bare [?] of skin is entirely off one of my ears On the bluf[f]s the ghnats are equally troublesome but they do not annoy us much except in the da^^ Geese appear here mated and I have seen some broods of gooselings. Some rain last night, still barren and grass bad our horses about the same our men troubled with the relax toward night found buffaloe killed one which made a scanty meal for all hands for supper made 25 miles 7th Started out hunting killed two antelope about 10 saw a herd of Buffaloe crossing the River waited til they rose the Bank and commenced slaughter killed 3 and wounded many more these afforded a timely supply to the party and we ate heart [illy. Saw today the first appearance of muskrat since leav- the settlements also Pelicans. Last night in cutting a tree for fuel caught two young grey Eagles one of which we ate and found it tender and good also a Badger saw some rattlesnakes and some other kinds not known to me the men [horses?] appear a little better the men [horses?] about the same Thr. go deg. wind S. E. my face so swelled from the musquitoes and ghnats that I can scarce see out of my eyes and aches like the tooth ache 9th I date this the same^- on ace of a mistake of a day her[e]- tofore made 30 miles and yesterday 25 arrived at the Chimney or Elk Brick the Indian name this singular object looks like a monument about 200 feet high and is composed of layers of sand and lime stone in layers the sand blowing out lets the lime rock fall down and this action has in time reduced what was once a *"Same" here seems to mean "as I do". 156 JOURNAL: [213 hill to a spire of nearly the same dimensions at top and bottom it looks like a work of art and the layers like the ranges of stone it is scituated about 3 miles from the river. Rain and thunder at night wind strong S. E. river as muddy as ever the bluf[f]s for the last 20 miles have occasionally a few stinted trees apparently Pitch pine and cedar the small streams that here empty into the Platte are frequently dry near the river during the day while above they are running free while at night there is running vvater entirely to the river Party in better order Horses about the same we now judge ourselves within 4 davs march of the Black Hills loth. 2S miles, 2 Buffaloe nth 30 miles, 6 Buffaloe 1 2th Nothing remarkeable crossed Wild Horse Creek coming in from the S. 13th Came in sight of the Black hills and crossed Larrimee fork of the Platte in getting over one of my rafts broke the tow line the raft went down stream lodged on a snag and upset wetting most of the goods on it and loosing two Horse loads as it lodged in the middle of the river and the stream [being] very rappid the goods were with difficulty passed ashore here an alarm was occasioned by the appearanceof 4 men on thebluf[f]s behind us and an attack w^as expected every moment which would have been bad as our party w^as much scattered in crossing They However proved to be apart of a party of 19 men in the em- ploy of Gant & Blackwell. They last winter lost all but 3 of their animals and in going to Sante Fee got enclosed by snow in the mountains and nearly starved to Death, and at first they were hard to tell from Indians or devils they are now in good health having felt well for some time all of them joined Mr. Fitzpatricks party and proceeded on foot with us to the mountains. Killed an antelope 14th started late and left the river at which we had en- camped and proceeded 16 miles killed one antelope and one elk 15th went out for game killed one antelope, 2 deer 2 Buff- aloe made this day 20 miles and passed the first of the Black hills the country is now thinly wooded with Box Elder ash Pitch pine cedar and cotton wood and a variety of small shrubs among which are the cherry, currant and thorn wild sage here almost covers the country and is a plant of many years gro[w]th arrived at camp found the company had killed plenty of Buffaloe and were encamped on a small stream coming in from the S. 20 miles. 1 6th Warm in mng. cold and rainy in the afternoon a little hard snow on the Peak of the Black hills a white Bear was seen this day Black ones for some days past. The lime rock still con- tinues primitive peb[b]les in the streams and on the knols the 214] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 157 hills pointed up very sharp from the same cause as the Chimney the country appears desolate and dreary in the extreme no one can conceive of the utter desolation of this region nevertheless the earth is decorated with a variety of beautifull flowers and all unknown to me hard travelling disenables our botanist to exam- ine them we have on the whole meat enough but the supply is too unstead}'. There are here two kinds of Rabbits the largest weighing about 15 lbs ears 6 inches long plover and other marsh birds a[re] common and some 2 or 3 kinds of Gvills. Struck the Platte river again here about 100 }'ds wide the water high and rapid we here find a small kind of Parsnip the blossom 3^ellow root about 5 inches long )/z inch thick of more than one years gro[w]th the men appear better Horses about the same made this da^' 20 miles 17th Wind high N. W. Ther 40 a drear and cheerless day made 25 miles killed 3 Buffaloe i antelope i Deer crossed 2 small streams from the Black hills running into the Platte saw some rabbits & white bears Hops. 18 reached the place for fording the platte igth Passed over my goods during a severe wind without ac- cident 20th Mr Subblettee passed over his goods and at night mooved on about 3 miles 2ist Made along march of 30 miles during which one of my Horses gave out killed this day 3 Buffaloe and fired at a white bear arrived at camp at 1 1 ock at night. I have ommitted one day on the other side of the Platte I date this right we ar- rived at Rock Independence at noon after a march of 15 miles 23''- Yesterda}- we left the Platte and struck the Sweet water on which this rock stands it is scituated in a gorge within 30 feet of the stream and is granite toda^' is warm last night frost and the two last days cold and disagreable from this time to 2nd July frost each night and snow^ once our course lay in various direc- tions from S. W. to N. W. following the Sweet water and leaving the first snowy mountains on the right hand on the 29th we crossed on to the head w^aters of the Colorado during all this time we found abundance of Buffaloe the travelling good but the grass poor the streams all fordable but rapid five streams have been crossed to this time and we are now encamped on the 6th all running into the Colorado trout are found here also some beav- er Some of my men talk of turning back and I give them all free liberty many of my horses have given out and the rest are failing fast and unless we soon come to better grass they will all die and leave me on foot the waters running into L,ewis river *The "23" is placed a little alwve and to the left of the word "left". From the 21st on the journal was evidently not written up until theeven- iug of July 2nd. T5H JOT-RXAI.: [215 are not more than 8 miles distant, on the creek where we are there are pine trees in shape lik[e] a Balsam tree leaves like a pitch pine Bark rough yellowish and scaly The mountains in this region are not conspicuous are isolated and admitting free passage between them in any direction the creeks are sufficiently numerous for watering but feed is poor the ist [of] July we rested all the afternoon a respite quite acceptable to our wear>^ legs Our average during these days about 20 miles but in some cases quite circuitous White bears are seen but none have been killed. Wolves and antelopes plenty, King fishers Our hunters have just brought part of 4 Bufifaloe At night encamped on the same creek that we passed this mng. and soon after were visited In' 6 me7i from Dripps & Fontenelles concern who with 13 others are encamped 5 miles from this place. This night at about 12 ock. we were attacked by Indians probably the Blackfoot. The}' ap- proached within 50 yds. and fired about 40 shots into the camp and some arrows they wounded three animals got 5 from Mr. vSub- blette One from an Independent hunter and 4 which I left out of camp for better feed mine were all poor and sore backed and useless 3rd Decamped and in company with the men above men- tioned proceeded to their camp and passed on to our route which la}' W. This night encamped on the waters of the Coloi'ado 25 miles 4th Decamped and at noon crossed the divide and drank to my friends with mingled feelings from the waters of the Columbia mixed with alcohol and eat of a Buffaloe cow made this day 30 miles and 25 yesterday The snow clad mountains now entirely surround us the streams this side increase rapidly. One bear seen this day the grass much better and some fertile land here the earth in some places was frozen snow yesterday and today. Three of my men are sick and I have no spare animals for them. 5th We passed along a wooded River and through a very dif- ficult road by its side so steep that one of m}' Horses loosing his foothold in the path was rooled down about 100 feet into the river he was recovered but so much injured as we had to leave him shortly after. Made this day 20 miles 6th We marched early and at 2 ock stop[p]ed on Lewis river and within 20 miles of the Trois Tetons three very conspicuous snow covered mouivtains visible in all this region this river here runs nearly S. and is divided over a lK)ttom about 2 miles and in- to 8 streams very rapid and difficult these we forded which con- sumed the time until night and encamped after making 18 miles on the W. bank with no grass, in the morning of the 7th we proceed[ed] up a small brook coming from a gap of the mountains due south of the Trois Tetons and passed the range of mountains of this range without much difficulty it is a good pass for such a range and fresli animals would have no difficulty in passing 2i6] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 159 through it On the highest point we had snow accompanied with heav3^ thunder and being out of meat fed upon the inner bark of the Balsam trees a tree similar if not the same with the Eastern Balsam[?] At Night we encamped at the foot of the pass on the western side and at the commencement of a large valle}' wdth sev- eral streams running through it into Lewis River surrounded wdth high and snow clad mountains The w^eather is here warm in the day time but frost ever}' night the grass is good ' the land ordinary. On the 8th we proceed[ed] into the plain and after a march of 10 miles arrived at the rendesvous of the hunters of this region here w^e found about 120 Lodges of the Nez Perces and about 80 of the Flatheads a company of trappers of about 90 under Mr. Dripps of the firm of Dripps & Fontenelle connected with the American Fur Co. Man^^ independent Hunters and about 100 men of the Rocky Mountain Fur Co under Mess Mil- ton Sublette and Mr Frapp. I remained at this encampment un- til the 17th during which time all m}- men but 11 left me to these I gave such articles as I could spare from theneces[s]ities of my own Party and let them go. While here I obtained 18 Horses in exchange for those which were worn out and for a few toys such as Beads Bells red and Blue cloth, Powder and Balls fish hooks Vermillion old Blanketts We also supplied ourselves with Buifaloe robes we have now a good outfit and here we found plent}' of meat which can be had of the Indians for a trifle On the 17th we put out and ste[e]red S. E. in direction to a pass through the same mountains by which we entered the valley these Mts. run E. Sc W. and the pass I refer to is the next E. of the one refer[r]ed to and through it the watersof this valley reach Lewis River which is on the S. side of this range at night we en- camped within about 8 miles of the commencement of the pass On the 1 8th we did not leave camp when near starting we observed 2 partys of Indians coming out of the pass about 200 in number with but few horses after securing our camp our riders went out to meet them and soon found them to be Blackfeet a little skirmish ensued one of the Blackfeet was killed and his Blankett and robe brought into camp on this the Indians made for the timber tlie women and children were seen flying to the mountains at this time only 42 men being the party of Mess Milton Sublette & Frapp mine and a few Independent Flunters were in sight and the Indians were disposed to give us their usual treatment when the}' meet us in small bodies but while the Indians we[re] making their preparations we sent an express to camp which soon brought out a smart force of Nez Perces Flatheads and whites the Indians finding they were caught fortified themselves in a masterly man- ner in the wood. We attacked them and continued the attack all day there were probably about 20 of them killed and 32 horses were found dead The}' decamped during the night leaving most of their utensials lodges &c and nianv of the dead we have lost i6o JOURNAL: [217 3 whites killed 8 badly wounded among which is Mr Wm. Sub- lette who was extremely active in the battle about 10 of the Indians were killed or mortally wounded of the Nez Perces and Flatheads in the morning we visited their deserted fort they had dug into the ground to reach water and to secure themselves from our shot It was a sickening scene of confusion and Blood- [slhead one of our men who was killedinside* their fort we found mutilated in a shocking manner on the 19th we removed back to our former ground to be near our whole force and to recruit the wounded and bury the dead. We think that 400 lodges or about 600 warriors of the Blackfeet are on the other side of the pass and if they come the}' must be met with our whole force in which case the contest will be a doubtful one. We have mad[e] Horse pens and secured our camp in as good a manner as we can and Avait the result this affair will detain us some days. On 24th we again moved out of the valley in the same direction as at first viz about S. E. and encamped at night in the gorge of it during the march I visited the scene of our conflict for the first time since the battle the din of arms was now changed into the noise of the vulture and the howding of masterless dogs the stench was extreme most of the men in the fort must have perished I soon retired from this scene of disgusting butchery On the 25th we proceeded through the pass which is tolerably good and in a direc- tion of about S. W. b}' S. and encamped 15 miles on Lewis River (here concentrated into one rapid stream) and about 30 miles S. of where we crossed it in going into the valley we are now emploj^ed in making bull boats in order to cross it One Buffaloe and some antelope killed today 26 crossed the river in a bull boat without accident in 4 hours and moved on in a westerly direction al>out 4 miles when we struck into a deep ravine with a little water in it this ravine is bordered by high presipices on each side and is small 3 miles up this we encamped for the night this stream is called Muddy as there is several of this name it is requisite to distinguish this by the cognomen of Muddy that falls i!ito [the] "Lewis" 26th we moved up the Muddy until we found the forks of it then followed the Right hand say 3 miles then took a south direction and struck another stream (small) and running in the opposite direction this we followed aV>out 5 mil[ejs making 15 this day and encamped 27th. We moved down the stream until its junction with an- other called Cirays creek which we crossed and assended a high bluff and travelled an average course of S. W. and encamped on a small creek making 15 miles this day 2 days since I first this side the mountain met with the prickly pear and since leaving "The word "inside" is crossed out with pencil and "near" written ahove it with pencil. 2i8] WYETH\S FIRvST EXPEDITION. i6r the valley of the Retidesvous the fruit that was green one day is ripe the next. The nights are still frosty but the da^'S are ver^" warm as in N. E. at this time fruits we have 3 kinds [of] cur- rants one of gooseberry all different from those of the U. S. and Service berr^^s all the first are sour the latter sweet the coun- try through which we have travelled for these two days past has a strong volcanic appearance the streams occup)' what ap- pear to be but the craCclks of an over heated surface the rocks are blown up in blubbers like a smiths cinders some rocks ten feet through are but a shell being hollow. A substance abounds like bottle glass of about the same weight not so transparent about as brittle the fracture is smooth and gloss}^ with the ex- ception of the cracks as above the country is tolerabW level for a mountainous country but excessively dry. During our first days march from Lewis River beside the ravine above men- tioned we passed three craters of small volcanoes (as I suppose) and I am told there is a boiling spring near the same place We here find buffaloe plenty and fat and entirely different from those met with in the Spring on the Platte it is preferable to the best beef. Our party have taken lice from the Indians they are a great trouble as well as the Musquitoes these last trouble us in the da}' but the frost seals their wings at night when the first relieve them vmtil morning. On the 28 we moved in a direction about S. W. and during the march took the bearing of the Trois Tetons which was N. E. b}' E. and I think 75 miles we made 7 miles and encamped on a little stream meandering through a valley of about 100 acres of fine Black land with the grass as good as the buffaloe and the cold weather could admit of. Here we found plent}' of cows and more Bulls 13 of the first were killed they were fat and we stop- ped to make meat these cows were killed by running them down which is a dangerous method expensive in horses and Requiring much skill in Riding We of course were obliged to employ help for none could be got by approaching while they were Running them 29tli We remained all day making meat with a hot sun this morning sent 3 men down the creek fishing they caught 21 Sal- mon Trout and returned at 10 this afternoon it rained hard and during the storm the squaw of one of the party was delivered of a Boy in the bushes whither she had retired for the purpose it[s] head was thickly covered with Black hair it was as w^hite as is usual with the whites in less than an hour afterwards the squaw made her appearance in camp as well and able for a days travel as usual it continued raining all night and until 8 of the 30 on which ace. our march was defer[r]ed for the day which was afterward fine and our meat dried well. 4 Beavers were caught from about 12 traps last night during this day one of the party saw an Indian which must have been a Blackfoot as otherwise he t62 JOURNAL: [219 would have come to camp yesterday and today we had Thunder & Hail as well as rain. ist. Augt I date this the ist. on ace. of having missed a day in the time past. This day we made about 15 miles in a S. \Y. direction and most of the way in a deep valley and encamped on a small creek running into one called Blackfoot this latter is the second stream we have passed which em[p]ties into S. fork of Tewis River the first was called Grays River and is also small (this .since crosdng T^ewis River) Here we stopped until the 4th to make meat of which I made enough to eat and 110 more while the other two parties who had go[o]dbuffaloe Riders and Horses made considerable while her[e] we lost one Horse while attempting to Run BufFaloe b}' throwing his Rider and Running among the Euffaloe and going off with them I .sent out a part}' to get fish of two men the}' Returned with about a peck of craw fish and a dozen of trout these average about ilb and are fine eating. We have here the vSandhill Cranes in plenty. On the 4th we moved due south and crossed Blackfoot and struck over to a stream em- tying into the same as Blackfoot called Portneuf from a man kill- ed near it 18 miles here we found Bufliiloe in the bottom and the Hunters are now out Running them. Here we remained this day and the 5th when the men I had sent out to hinit the horse re- turned as I had expected them on the 4th I was much alarmed for their saf[e]ty being in a dangerous country while here we made 7 bales meat On the 5th. we mooved S. down the valley 3 miles and encamped on a creek running into the valle}- on the 7th we made 21 miles first down the N. side of the valley and taking the first creek running out of the valle}- then in a S. \\'. direction and encamped on it from the valley above mentioned rises Bear River running into the the Big Salt Lake distant about S. K. 50 miles Currants and service berrys are now ripe. I have been sick from indigestion for some days more so than I ever was before. We have here the vSandhill Crane Turtle dove Robbin Blackbirds (Crow & Cow) Kingfishers Black & Mallard Ducks, {7e[e]se. We find meat making a tedious buisness. On the 8th we moved S. W. 15 miles following the main Portneuf out of the valley for about 1 2 miles then took one of its tributaries for about 3 miles and encamped on the S. W. .side of the val[l]ey in which this branch runs here we cached 6 Horse loads of goods and remained on the 9th & loth & nth moved on in a S. W. direction not following an}' stream but passing the ridge lx)rdering the valley in a low place near where a small run ]-)uts into the valley from a very rugged pass. We made this day 15 miles and encamped on a small run going into [the] Portneuf. 12th We made in a vS. W. direction about 6 miles not follow- ing any stream but encamped on a very small run with poor grass. 13 We made 24 miles in a west and by N. direction and met no water for this distance and encamped on a very small run issu- 22o] WYETH'vS FIRST EXPEDITION. 163 ing from a spring a few miles from Lewis River we are here in sight of the River running through an extensive valley in a S. W. direction here are the American falls the place may be known by several high and detached hills arising from the plain the falls at one place [are] 22 feet and the Rapids extend a considerable distance down the River We found here plenty of Buffaloe sign and the Pawnacks come here to winter often on account of the Buffaloe we now find no buffaloe there are here abundance of Service berrys now ripe during a short walk from camp this mng. I saw a buif colored fox with a white tip on his tail. Wolves here serenade us every night making more noise than 50 village dogs and better music for the^' keep in chord and display more science 3'esterday we parted from 16 men bound out trap- ping. We are now in a countr}" which affords no small game and a precarious chance for Buffaloe 14th We made 30 miles in a S. W. direction and encamped on a cresk called Casu''^ River it joins the main River below the Am. falls. This da^'^s Ride was through an excessively barren country with no water between the two last camps on the X. side of the Lewis River and about 50 miles distant from it is a range of snowy mounts. [There arejalso two or three points in the chain of this side with snow on them. r5th We made along the banks of the Ocassia about 25 miles and encamped on the west bank of it. The valle}' of the Ocassia is about 4 miles wide and of a rich soil but the excessive cold and drouth of this country prevents vegetation from assuming a fer- tile character. The air is so dry that percussion caps explode without striking and I am obliged to put the caps on and fire im- mediately except in the night when we consider it safe to keep the caps on the guns we have in this country a large kind of black crickett 2 inches long said to be used as food by the Indians they are in great numbers and roost on the .sage at noonday there are also in the streams abundance of craw-fish we see an- telope and old buffaloe sign 1 6th We made 25 miles up the same side of the Ocassia then cro.s.sed it and followed S. W. 3 miles and encamped on a small mountain run making in all 28 miles in a W b^' S. direction yesterdays march was in a direction W by S. 17th We moved in a W. by S. direction about 15 miles to a creek putting into Lewis River on which we found no beaver of consequence having been trap[p]ed out by the H. B. Co. some years before. 1 8th We moved out up the creek about Smiles and still found no beaver saw one Pidgeon Woodpecker this creek runs through what are called cut rocks otherwise volcanic in this region I found one mountain of Mica Slate enclosing garnetts. The Ba- "Tlie name is thus written above "Ocassia" crossed out. t64 JOURNAL: [221 saltic rock appears to bs the same formerly and the remains of the Garnetts are in some cases to be seen, also I have found here granite in small blocks there is also much white sand- stone compact the clefts [cliffs?] on each side of this creek are high and perpendicular but the bottom affords good grass for this country. There is no timber except willow and alder in the bot- tom and cedar on the hills this days course about S. along the creek 19th We moved up the creek about 12 miles in a S. W. di- rection there was still little beaver this afternoon I took 2 men and proceeded from camp about 8 miles about W. following the creek and slept there at sunrise on the 20tli we moved up about 1 2 miles in a W direction and while I was engaged in the brook setting a trap we found three Indians following us the two men were on the bank and were seen but myself in the creek was un- noticed when the}^ crossed to go to the men I presented my pistol to the first one who made a precipitate retreat back while I made mine to m^'-gun having got which I bec[k]oned them to come to me which they did we then went to camp which we found had moved this day about 10 miles in same direction these In- dians were Snakes the first we had seen during the march the party passed a hot spring the country still volcanic. 2ist We followed the creek in a N. W. direction about 5 miles when we met a village of the Snakes of about 150 persons having about 75 Horses they were poorly off for food and clothing but perfecth- friendly they are diminutive in person and lean. We encamped to trade with them but did n.othing except getting a few skins for moccasins this morning caught my fiist Beaver a large one. 22nd We followed the same creek about 2 mil[e]s and then struck into a ravine in a west direction and in about 6 miles came to a warm spring near a cold one which formed a run which we followed in a west by S. direction this we folhnved about 2 miles and encamped making this day 18 miles 22nd We proceedLed] in a S. W. direction and struck the same stream on another branch about 2 mils from the junction about 15 mils this day these two streams unite and run in a N. direction through impassable cut rocks this night caught 2 Heaver and slept out of camp. 24th Proceed up the creek in a vS. W. l)y W. direction about 18 miles then in a W. by N. direction al)out 6 miles. The last half of this days travel was through clefts of Scienite rock pretty well broke to pieces ])y heat apparently we have here 2 kinds of Liz[z]ards the one like that of the I'nited vStates as far as I could see the other shorter and more sluggish here we find the banks of the streams lined with Diggers Camps and Trails but they are shy and can seldom be spoken and then there is no one who could understand them and they appear to know little alxnit the 222] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 165 signs which afford other Indians a mode of intelligence from this region specimens No. i are obtained. 25th We made in a W. direction along the same creek 20 miles. 26th In a W by N. direction about 20 miles 27th In a S W direction toward a snowy mountain and leav- ing the last creek 24 mils and struck one here running S. E. Countrj'- desolate in the extreme most of the creeks which have water in them on the mountains dry up in the plains of this region 28th did not move more than 2 mils up. 29th About 5 miles in a vS. W. Direction to cross a range of high hills until we struck a creek running in a N. W. direction which we followed 12 mils and encamped where the creek goes into the cut rocks this day we parted from Mr. Sublett[e]s party with feeling of regrett for this party have treated us with great kindness which I shall long remember. 30th We followed the creek in a X. W. direction about 12 mils through tremenduous cut rocks I went ahead to look the route I passed the smoking fires of Indians who had just left 4 of whom I saw running up the mountain endeavoured by signs to induce them to come to me but could not Soon after I came to another camp I happened to find their plunder this induced them to come to me 3 men one boy 4 women from these Indians I procured fresh Salmon Spawn which was very encouraging as we are nearly out of provisions and the country would afford us a scanty subsist- ence I gave these Indians a few small presents to convince them of our friendly disposition. This day for the first time in this country saw raspberrys these Indians gave me a cake made of service berr\'S quite good they had about a Dozen of spotted fish of a kind I had never seen resembling a Tom-cod. These Indians are small about 120 of a good countenance they are Snakes or Sosshonees. 30th''- We followed the same creek and made about 1 5 [milesJ in a N. N. \\'. direction through a continued defile in many places ad- mitting just room for the water through which in many places we were obliged to make our way The mountains on each side are about 1000 feet above the creek which has a rapid decent here are a small fish about 141b. similar to a trout but with large dark spots. We meet here plent}^ of cherrys currants and goose- berrys the latter sour. The last of yesterdays and the first of to- days route lay through Porphritio Granite rocks in their natural state the latter part of to days was through a stratified blue sandstone untouched bv fire for a short distance then assumed a *The author seems to have lost his bearings with his dates. His uncer- tainty tirst appears on the 17th and continues patently throut;h to the 4tli prox. 1 66 JOrRXAL: [22:, volcanic appearance. This day we assended the highest mount- ain in sight and found the exhibit an indescribable chaos the tops of the hills exhibit the same strata as far as the eye can reach and appear to [have] once form[ed] the level of the country and the vall[e]y to be formed by the sinking of the earth rather than the rising of the hills through the deep cracks and chasms thus form- ed the rivers and creeks of this country creep which renders them of the most difficult character to follow in the brooks we have^fresh water clams on which we look with some feeling for the small quantity of Buffaloe meat now remaining admonishes us look for some other means of living game there is little and be- ing obliged to travel prevents our hunting much, from this place the specimen in Bag No. i of vitrified quartz was taken. 31st We followed the same creek about 4 miles in a N. direc- tion then took a dry ravine 2 miles in a vS. E. then in a N. direc- tion and then followed down another dry ravine about r mile when the rocks on each side closed over the top and formed a natural Bridge elevated about 50 feet while the sides approached to within 20 feet of each other and the bottom decended perpendicular- ly about 60 feet we of course returned on our trail and then ste[e]red a N. Iv direction about 4 miles and encamped on a little ravine in which there was only a little v»ater standing in deep places and barely enough for us and our horses. The first half mile of our route la>' through the bed of the creek and among rocks from i foot to 3 or 4 in diameter this was u very dif- ficult task and several of our horses fell in the water this day we lost two horses which gave out the country still bears the same appearance as for several days past. 2nd Sept. We left our camp in the ravine assended to the height of land which we found to be a high level plain over which we marched in a X. N. \V. direction and found during a ro hours march 2 springs which as the day was warm were acceptable at the end of 30 miles we reached the creek wliicli we left on the 3 1st We found rabbits plenty on the plain our camp was made sur- rounded bv high and and perpendicular clilts say Soo feet bearing every mark of fire here we found little grass for our horses. 3rd W^e lay at the same camp and got fish from the i>rook enough for breakfast after which 1 took La J horse and followed the creek down alxnit i mile and found another larger joining it a little l:>elow which there is a warm spring issuing from the bank about 40 feet alxn-e the stream it gives out smoke when it meets the air and discharges a large quantity of water about 2 miles farther down I found a small party of Indians from whom 1 ob- tained 8 fish weight about 4lbs each and looking like a .salmon ior these I gave 4 Hooks they were friendly ihey advi.se me to follow the right hand trail but I have determined to take the lelt and shall perhajis repent it. The left leads X. W. which 1 think [isj my direction 1 returned to camp and three of the 224] WVKTH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 167 Indians with me. One of these Indians had a bad wound on the side of his head and from his signs and appearance was made with a poisoned arrow. 3rd We moved camp in the proposed direction viz X. \V. 16 miles During which distance we found stagnant water once and encamped near about 15 Indians diggers 3 of our men we left at the last camp to set their traps at some signs there seen. These Indians are very poor and timid when I approached them alone on a gallop they all began to run but by moderating my pace and making signs the[y] suffered me to come to them they gave me some sweet root to eat for which I gave them 3 Hooks they had a young yellow legged eagle with them and most of the diggers we have met had a small kind of Hawk at their camps these they feed and tame this party also had a young bird tame re.sembliug a King Bird this days travel was on a high plain and good going on an old trail these Indians had with them staves for fish spears so we presume they are going to the river for fish and so think ourselves on the right trail. For three nights passed there has been no frost a thing which has not befor[e] happened for three nights in all since leaving rock Independence. Snow spit we had the 28th Aug. Today a slight sprinkle of Rain being the 2nd time since leaving the Rendesvous. 4th We left the camp early and proceeded over a high and pretty level plain gradually decending to the N. W. in a X. X. W. direction and after 20 mils travel without water came to ravines running K. and dry having gravelly and sandstone (un- touched by fire) bluf[fs] and in 5 mils more came to the creek we had left on mug. of the 3rd. [on] the banksof which we found every 20 steps or thereabouts warm or hot .springs and the creek tho large and discharging a great quantity [of] water too warm to be palatable Here we found an Indian and family of whom for 2 fish Hooks we bought 7 salmon of about 4 lbs weight each when green, they were split and dried. The two men left behind not having yet come up we intend halting here for them. The creek is here lined with volcanic rock today [we] saw the first fish Hav»-k in this country. 4th La[y] at camp and repacked our goods and held a smoke with .some Indians one of whom we engaged as a guide down the river and to Beaver smoked too much and made myself .sick 5th Moved on about 5 mils X. X. W. and again struck the creek and good grass found Beaver sign very plenty and for the first time set all our traps at good sign had a mess of fresh clams for dinner after which 2 Indians came to us with 4 salmon which we bought for 2 Hooks I'his da}' heard what we all took for a cannon at about 10 mils distance time will determine whether we were mistaken. In this creek there are a great number of snakes about 3 feet long with a large head and of a brownish grev color about the proportion of the striped snake of X. K. TbS JOURNAL: [225 They Inhabit the water and I saw one catch a small fish within two feet of me while bathing at a warm spring which put into the main stream The bathing at these warm springs is delicious there are hun.dreds of them and some large enough to dive in vSome gush out of the rocks at an elevation of 40 feet above the stream and discharge enough water for a mill I can perceive no unusal taste in the water. 6th Remained at same camp and were visited at 10 ock in the morning by two Indians with whom we held a smoke we can learn nothing of any white post by these Indians caught 7 Beaver 7th Remained at same camp and exchanged two horses with some Pawnack Indians three of whom visited us also about 10 Sohonees with Salmon of which they have plenty here we caught a N. England vSucker also a fish a little resembling [a] pike of about 3 lbs weight but without teeth. Caught 3 Beaver. Ravens are here very plenty and tame the[y] light on the perpendicular sides of the creek waiting for fish on which they live. Oe[e]se and ducks are also plenty as well as grouse. vSome of the Indians have guns but most of them go unarmed The creek here for about 10 miles runs W. N. W. 8th Mooved camp down the creek about 12 miles and came to the village under the escort of about 20 Indians on Horseback one of whom by the direction of the chief shewed us the place for our camp where grass and water could be had here the chief Harangued his people telling them not to come into our lines nor steal from the white people he sent his squaws with wood for us and also sent salmon for us to eat I gave him a present of tobacco awls Hooks Powder vermillion knives ect. Here I traded a Beaver skin robe for two knives and six skins with many muskrat which are plenty here I found these Indians great thieves in the small line knives ect. Missing mine I went to one of the Sub Chiefs and told him of it he made enquiry and point- ed out the thief who refusing to open his Robe I gently did it for him but inste[a]d of finding the knife found a coat of one of the men which he held upon until I drew a pistol on which he gave it up and caught up what he supposed to [be] one of our guns but it happened to be my covered fishing rod he was then held by tlie other Indians and sent to the village and I saw him no more gth In [the] morning went to see the Indians catch Salmon which is done bv entangling them in their passage up the creek among dams which they erect and spearing them they catch an im- mense quanity the operation commences in the morning at a signal given by their chief. This chief is a good sized man atid very intelligent and the President would do well if he could pre- serve the respect of his subjects as well or maintain as much die;nitv 226] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 169 xo Mooveddowii the main river in a S. W. direction which here runs through moderate banks in a moderate current We are told that the next creek has beaver by the chief and that it is 4 days march The main river is here full of salmon which continualh' jump above the the surface like sturgeon. loth Mooved camp along the Bank of the river 3 miles there the river diverging to the Northward we left it and followed the main trail the river here goes[?] through cut rocks about 30 miles We made this day 20 mils in all in a W. N. W. Direc- tion and encam-ped in poor grass on a small creek i mile from the main river during the march we crossed a small creek up which about 2 mils is a fine camp. nth Moved at 3 a. m. and followed the trail 24 mils in a W. N. W. Direction and encamped on the bank of the main river which is here a fine stream about a Vs mile or over. I swam across it and found it over my head all the way here we found Indians and bought Beaver 3 skins for i shoe knife and 4 charges powder & lead we also got salmon of them the Basalt here occurs resting on sand and gravel in some places the rock is not more than 4 feet thick and appears to have suffered from intense heat the country is barren in the extreme there is us- ual[l]yadiifereticeof 40 deg. between the day & night the heatat noondav about 75 to 85 deg. The Indians here have large nets made in the European manner of the hemp of the country. The trail on the river so far is fine and much used. 12 Moved camp 15 miles on the trail in a W. N. W. direc- tion and following the bank of the river which is here a gentle stream of aboiit 4 miles and '•< mile wide. Gnats here trouble us much and the days are extremely hot about 85 deg. and the nights warm enough for comfort The river is full of salmon and a plenty of them are to be had of the Indians whom we meet every few mils fishing on the banks of the stream Some of the grass is here so salt that it cati be washed in a pot of water and enough seasoning for boiling obtained grass is generally poor. The banks ai^ here generally sand Man^' kinds of water fowl frequent the river here today we bought a fish of the Indians dried excessiveh' fat and when alive a large fish, sturgeon probably 1 3th moved camp along the bank of the river and following the trail 24 miles only deviating from the river about 3 mils of the last of the travel. The first 6 miles the river is W. the next 3 N. W. then vS, W. 3 then taking a circular sweep round to N. by E- which was 9 miles then left the river and in 3 miles struck a creek about as large as Charles River at W^ater- towu, where we found grass, salmon and Indians and the first timber we have seen since leaving the Mts. in sight on what ap- pears to be a river coming in from the N. side this I mean to ascertain tomorrow and the next dav I shall start to explore the T70 JOURNAI.: [227 creek for Beaver This forenoon and yesterday forenoon were cloudy and the first cloudy weather for 2 months except as men- tioned before. We[a]ther still as warm as 80 deg. in day time buy salmon for a hook apiece. I4tb Mooved camp in a N. N. W. Direction 5 miles and en- camped on the main river being out of provisions I sent a man on a mule to buy some salmon he went up the river about 3 miles and called to some Indians on one of the Islands to brin.g some these he bought afterward another Indian came over with some the man thinking he had got nearly enough offered him a less price this displeased the Indian who slapped him in the face and at the same time hit the mule a kick which set him out on the run and the Indian ran quick enough to avoid vengeance the man came to camp much displeased having had to walk most of the way and carry his fish this day also visited by Indians from below with salmon 15th Sent 3 men and 4 animals to examine the small river for beaver this day a X. \V. wind much like the N. K. of the Atlantic with some little rain (at the same camp) this day took a ride down the river to examine for a camp i6th N. W. wind still took a ride up the river to find a camp where timber, fit for a raft which we propo.se to build to carry some of the loose bag- gage and some men who are on toot can be found, found none saw some beaver sign in trading for some salmon an Indian attempted to sna[t]ch a paper of fish hook[s] from me but he did not make out returned to camp and sent two men to trap for the beaver they left their horses and went into the willows to look [for] the sign during which time the Indians none of whom were in sight stole a cloak from Mr. Ball. They found the beaver had lately been trapped out .say within 3 weeks next morning they returned to camp 17th Mooved camp N. by W. 16 miles and encamped on a creek aV>out as large as the last near a few lodges of Indians the main river about two miles to X. H. This creek appears to run vS. W. The Inds. .say there is beaver on it the mani river here makes a con.siderable detour to the X. A'esterday had hail and rain & s;iow and today tlie Mts. to the Xorthward are white v.'ith it. 18th With 2 men I went up the creek this I followed about 50 miles and found its general course about W l)v X. the first 15 miles v^. W. then W. 20 then X. X. W. 15 where the cut rocks begin This is a large stream when tlie waters are high in the spring but now is sluggish here we got a few 1 weaver It had been trapped by the H. B. 2 years before we saw no Indians on it dviring the 9 days I was up. On the loth day I returned to where I left the party and feeling in the mood of banter I told the Indians at the mouth of the creek (the party having left) that I had eaten nnthine-' for two davs this to see if thcA- would yive 228] WYRTH'S FIRvST EXPEDITION. lyr me anything for charity sake, One of them went and looked at m^' saddle and pointed to me the fresh blood of a beaver I had that morning caught and left with the two men I then bought 2 salmon for one awl afterward I told him I had three children at home he brought forward three tawn}' brats and his squaw who was big I backed out of story telling with Indians. I then pro- ceeded on until the moon went down when seeing a light I made for it after traveling 5 miles I found it to be an Indian camp on the other side of the river I then unsaddled my horse and slept until 4 ock when I mounted and at 9 ock found where my party had camped the same night and a notice in the trail of their motions at 1 1 ock I overtook them with my horse lame and jaded. I found an Indian with the party who seems to know the route to Wallah Wallah and he intends going with us Dur- ing my absence the three men sent up the creek above the one I went up returned without accident, and during the same time Mr. Sublette with Mr. Frapp & party joined our camp and crossed by fording to the other side of the river intending to divide into 3 parties and trap up three streams coming in opposite the up- per one of which we thought to be salmon river it proves to be called Big Woody on account of the timber on it. They attempted to come down on the creek above the one I asscended but after toiling long and wearing down their horses in a cruel manner they crossed to the one that we decended and arrived at the Indian village the day after we left it he left be- fore I returned I regretted much not seeing this party, from Information gained here we suppose that we shall meet no Indians between this and the fort have threfore provided as much salmon as we could get and put ourselves on allowance. Subblette who went to 2 creeks further than I did saw a large stream running vS. W. this must either turn and be some large river coming in- to Lewis below here or be the head water of some river going to the Gulph of California. After joining camp we proceed[ed] on to a creek coming from the N. W. which is our route the river here being impracticable and taking a great bend to the N. and shall v.'ait here until the two men who went up with me come to camp The river from where I lefCt] camp runs about N. 20 miles then west 10 miles then N. again into cut rocks found the party all well and the horses much recruited 29th We lay at same camp. 30th Mooved about 5 miles the creek running aljout \\\ I Oct Mooved camp along same creek about 5 miles still \a'. 2nd x\t same camp at this place the bears dung was plentv but we saw but one. 3rd Moved camp about 15 miles creek still west and trail good. 4th With an Indian and 4 men I left camp in order to explore this creek the X. W. trail here leaving it after leaving camp I 172 JOURNAL: [229 proceed[ed] over bad hills about iS miles avid encamped among cut rocks on the same creek it here being W. by S. during the march we observed a range of high snow}^ mountains to the N. of us but \v[b]ether on our hide of the river or not could not de- termine. 5th Made about 5 miles through intolerable cut rocks some beaver 6th At same camp. 7th 5 mils on same creek which bears W. by vS here left it. having sent a messenger to camp with orders to proceed on the route to Wallah Wallah and stefeJring north passed some snow- clad mounts, which we walked up with bare feet and after 25 mils struck a small run going into the next creek during this day we passed through an immense forest of pine of different kinds and unknown to us altho very similar to some of ours on these mountains we found unripe service berrys, cherrvs and thorn apple all of which are gone on the rivers it snowed and rained most of the day many of the pines were 4 feet through 8th Moved 4 miles to the main creek and laid down cold and hungry and supperless hoping that our traps wonld give us beaver in the morning 9th (rOt 7 beaver and went to eating like good fellows moo\'- ed this day 6 m.iles down creek here running about N. loth Moved N. and down creek about 15 miles and found the rest of the party who had come on the mail trail in an average N. W. direction about 45 miles This day rain this creek from where we strvick it to this place runs in an extensive plain of fertile soiie equal to the best I ever saw of about 5 rails average width here we raised a great smoke and am told by our Indian that the Nez Perces will see it and come to smoke with us nth To the S. W. of us is a range of snow clad Mts. the Indian says it is 7 days to Wallah Vrallah. This creek runs about X. E. by K. iith vStarted at S ock and moved about X. X. W. 30 miles over high ground of good soil. 1 2th Left the party after killing a horse of the poorest kind for food in order to go ahead to find indians or whites or food The party liere remained one day in a valley of about 20 miles long and 15 wide of a very fertile soil in this valley saw exten- sive camps of Indians about one month old here they find sal- mon in a creek running through it and dig the Kamas root but not an Indian was here at this time we put out in a X"". W. di- rection and assended the hills which soon became wooded with good timber our course this day was about X. X. W. and 40 miles I had with me an Indian and three men and a little horse meat we camped this night in the woods without water. 13th Arose early and continued our route until 9 ock and stopped for lireakfast of bad Horse meat on a creek of some size 23o] WVETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 173 where we found the red thorn apple and a few cherries after 3 hours stop we moved across the creek w'hich runs West and is called Ottillah on ascending the opposite bluff we saw a smoke about 20 mils down on it to which we went and found some poor horses in charge of a squaw and some children the men were all out hunting they had no food but rose berrys of w'hich we made our supper they were much fright[en]ed at our approach there having been some Indians of this tribe viz Walla Walla killed by the snakes above, and this family was murdered the night after we left them In the morning of the 14th we put out about N. and arrived at fort Walla Walla about 5 ock in the evening distance 30 miles near the fort the river Walla Walla was crossed which is about 75 feet wide and about 2 feet deep current moderate the size of the last creek passed I was received in the most hospitable and gentlemanly manner by Peanbron [Pambrun] the agent for this post the fort is of no strength merely sufficient to frighten Indians mounting 2 small cannon having tw^o bastions at the opposite corners of a square enclosure there were 6 whites here. My party arrived on the i8th having fared for food in the same man- ner as m^'self but for a longer time. They met a Nez Perce vil- lage on the 1 6th and got a supply of food they passed my trail and vv^ent N. of it and struck the main river above the fort they brough[t] in all the horses At the post we saw a bull and cow & calf, hen & cock, paakins, potatoes, corn, all of which looked strange and unnatural and like a dream. They gave me a de- cent change of cloth[e]s which was verj- acceptable I took a ride up the river g miles to the junction of Lewis River which comes in from the S. H. and soon takes a S. course the Columbia comes here from the N. W. On the 19th I took leave of my hospitable entertainer in one of the Cos. barges with m3' party leaving m}- horses in his charge at the fort and proceeded down the river about 4 mils and s[t]opped to tighten our boat the river forms fine eddies to work up with and about 3 mile current down the 2nd run of fish failed this year in the river and the Indians are picking up the most nause- ous dead fish for food the course of the river [is] about S. W. 20th Left the beach at sunrise the River still S. W. and kept on until about noon when a furious wind arose from the S. W. and stopped our further progress the sand flew so as to obscure the air Here we traded a few fish from the natives for Hooks awls powder &c made 10 miles during which we passed some rapids of a bad character at which in times of high water portage is necessary the ge[e]se are luimerous seated on the banks of the river. River W. by S. a large snowy mountain S. W. b}* W. ahead which the river leaves to the left called b3' the Fren.ch "Montague de Neige" made 10 miles 174 JOURNAL: [231 2 1 St Wind same but more moderate Put down the river still W by S. passed a large Island at the lower end of which we stopped for the night. Ther. 22 deg. Made 16 miles during the day our boatman bought a colt which we found fine eating shagg and ge[e]se plenty 22nd Made 30 miles wind moderate and no rapids of much dif[f]iculty stopped at night at a village where was a chief sick to whom our conductor administered some medicine and bled him his eyes were exceeding yellow and his blood after standing a short time was covered with a scum of yellowish green he gave us a horse to eat of which he had 260 in fine order and of good breed we found the meat equal to any beaf and quite different from the poor and sick old ones we had eaten. The}' here sell Horses for 100 loads am[m]unition i Blankett and }( lb tobacco. 23rd The chief much better and we left him Yesterday our people in search of wood of which there is none but drift here found a pile wdiich they brought to our fire but were soon told by tlie natives that they had robbed the dead we will avoid the like mistake in the future we made this day 28 miles during which distance we passed one bad rapid and the river John Day from a trader of that name. This river is large but obstructed by rapids and enters from the S. is 79 miles below Walla Walla no rain as yet but we are informed that the rain is now constant below the falls we see Indians every few miles who come off to trade what little articles they have sometimes with nothing to beg a chew of tobacco sometimes with a little wood for fuel sometimes with two 3, one or % a fish a few berrys our conductor appears to have a wife at each stopping place 4 already and how manv more sable beauties god only knows these Indians are tolerably honest but will steal a little. 24th vStarted about 9 and after about [6 miles]- passed the grand falls of the Columbia just above which a small river puts into the Columbia about the size of the small rivers above the Wallah [Wallah] for instance these falls now the water is low are about 25 feet when the water is high these falls are covered the water not having a sufficient vent below the water here rises about 40 feet just before arriving at the falls are considerable rapids the falls are easily passed in boats at high water we hired the Indians about 50 for a quid of tobacco each to carry our l)oat about i mile round the falls the goods we carried ourselves shortlv after passing the falls we passed what are called the dalles (small) or where the river is dam[m]ed up between banks steep and high of not more than 100 feet apart through which the whole waters of the mighty Columbia are forced with much noise and uproar I passed through v^'ith some Indians while my men went round they not being good bo.itmen enough to trust -So written hut crossed cnit. 232] WYETH'vS FIRST EXPEDITION. 175 and fright[en]ed withall. We are now camped at the Great Dalles which are still narrower and more formidable than the small having stopLpJed after making 20 miles the wind being high and unfavorable for passing at the gorge of this pass the water rises[?] by the mark on the rock at least 50 feet forming a com- plete lock to the falls above the back water covering them en- tirel^^ The Indians are thieves but not dangerous before us and apparently in the river rises the most formidable mountain we have seen the country ahead is clothed with forest to the river side which has not been the case before and the western horizon is covered by a dense cloud denoting the region of con- stant rain during the winter. 25th Made this, day 6 miles and passed the great dalles similar to the small ones which we passed yesterday but still narrower being 75 feet about in width through this pass we went with an unloaded boat at an immense speed the goods and Baggage were carried past on the backs of my men and some Indians hired for that purpose my men not being good boatmen and timorous I hired Indians to work ours through going with them myself to learn the way during part of this day we had a fair wind the river still W. b}'' S. here we saw plenty of gre^- headed seals we bought some bear meat from the Indians which we found very fane. We encamped for the first time on the river among timber among which I saw a kind of oak and ash. Indians Plenty one chief at whose lodge we stopped a short time gave me some molasses obtained from [the] fort below to eat He had a large stock of dried fish for the winter 4 tons I should think roots &c he was dressed in the English stile Blue frock coat pants. & vest comported himself with much dignity enquired my name particu- ularly and repeated it over many times to impress it on his mem- ory his sister w^as the squaw of an American of the name of Bache who established a post on the river below the great dalles three years ago last fall and who was drowned in them with 1 1 others the following spring the remains of the fort I saw as also the grave of the woman who died this fall and was buried in great state with sundry articles such as capeau vest pantaloons shirts &c. A pole with a knob at the top is erected over her remains at the foot of the Dalles is an island called the Isle of the Dead on which there are manj^ sepulchers these Indians usually inter their dead on the Islands in the most romantic scituations where the souls of the dead can feast themselves with the roar of the mighty and eternal waters which in life time af[fJorded them sustenance and will to all eternity to their posterity. 26 After 30 miles of beautiful navigation with little current and fair strong wind and no rapids we arrived at the Cascade or lower obstruction of the river here it is necessary to carr}^ the boat and the Indians are all dead only two women are left a sad remnant of a large number their houses stripped to their frames 176 JOrRNAL: [233 are in view and their half buried dead this portage will be a hard job during this day I went ashore to a small lake near the river I killed at one discharge of my double barrelled gun 5 '•' of them which gave 5 of us a hearty supper no rain as 5'^et but constant appearance of it ahead at these rapids are a great man^- seal it is a mystery to me how they assend them. The direction of the river is here about W by S. and a little snow on some of the highest of the hills this day we passed the high mountain covered wdth snow her[e]tofore mentioned it is on the left of the river and is a more stupendous pile than any of the Rocky Mts. iVlways covered with snow and is called the SnowA' mountain. 27th in the morning commenced carrying the boat and goods which we finished at i ock. and making 9 miles in all stopped to repair the boat which was leaky from damage sustained in carry- ing rained all this day and saw^ but two[?] Indians. 28th With a fair wind and a little rain we decended the river at a great rate on the route we killed a goose which dropped in the water a white headed Eagle from a distance seeing this took occasion to come he seized it and lifted it into the air a few feet but our near approach fright[en]ed him away made this day 26 miles and stopped at a saw mill belonging to the H. B. Co. under charge of a Mr. Cawning[?] a gentleman who came here 22 years since with a Mr Hunt he is in the service of the Co. We were treated by him with the greatest kindness he gave us moc- [cjasins and food in plenty. 29th Started at 10 ock and arrived at the fort of Vancouver at 12, 4 miles Here I was received with the utmost kindness and Hospitality by Doct. McLauchland [McLoughlin] the acting Gov. of the place Mr McT3onald Mr Allen and Mr Mcka}' gentlemen resi- dent here Our people were supplied with food and shelter from the rain which is constant they raise at this fort 6000 bush, of wheat 3 of Barley 1500 potatoes 3000 peas a large quantity of punkins they have coming on apple trees, peach Do. and grapes. Sheep, Hogs, Horses, Cows, 600 goats, grist 2, saw mill 2. 24 lb guns powder magazine of stone the fort is of wood and square they are building a Sch. of 70 Tons there are about 8 settlers on the Multnomah they are the old engages of the Co. who have done trapping. I find Doct. McDauchland a fine old gentleman truly philanthropic in liis Ideas he is doing much good by introducing fruits into this countr)' which will much facilitate the progress of its settlement (Indian corn 3000 bush) The gentlemen of this Co. do much credit to their country and concern b}' their education deportment and talents. I find my- self involved in much difficulty on ace. of my men som2 of whom wish to leave me and whom the Co. do not wish to engage no[r] to have them in the country without ])eing attached to some Co. ''•'A word is omitted from tlie ioiiriial. 234] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 177 able to protect them alledging that if aiij- of them are killed, they will be obliged to aveng[e] it at an expense of money and ami- cable relations with the Indians. And it is disagreeable for me to have men who wish to leave me. The Co. seem disposed to render me all the assistance they can the}' live well at these posts they have 200 acres of land under cultivation the land is of the finest quality. 30th to 5th. Nov remained at Vancouver and except the last day rain. 6th started down the river to look with a view to the Salmon buisness we decended the river at about 4 mils per hour and ac- complished the journe}" in parts of 4 da3's the river is full of islands but they are all too low for cultivation being occasionally overflowed as also the praries (what few there are) on the main land with the exception of these small levells the country is so ■ rough that a great part of the earth must be inhabited before this but the soil is good and the timber is heavy and thick and almost impenetrable from underbrush and fallen trees the description of Mess. Lewis & Clark and others is fully borne out as to size and more also the river is so well known at this part of it that I will not insert any observations of my own there are a great number of fowl on this river at this time and there will be more as they say soon there are large swan white ge[e]se a goose with a motled breast and yellow bill a trifle smaller than the goose of N. E. A white goose almost exactly like the domestic goose of N. E. yellow feet and legs as also the former there is another goose like that of N. E. but I think smaller there is the tame duck of N. E. with 19 tail feathers and a fine duck to eat there is the grey duck of N. E. green winged teel Buffle heads Cape Races Dippers of the Sea loons seal deer I killed one'swimming the river I saw no elk but only tracks fort George now occupied as a trading post b}'- the H. B. Co. is well scituated on a sloping bank of the river about 2 miles outside of Tongue point and 6 miles inside of Clatsop point Chinnook point is opposite the latter and inside Chinnook is a river of small size is also inside Tongue point above Tongue point about 6 miles are the Cathlametts they are an archipelago of reedy Islands overflown at high water Here are ducks innumerable, the Indians in this part of the river are of late much reduced they appear good and hosptable as far as an Indian ever is that is they are willing to sell provisions for all they can get for them they appear to live well and I believe any one may with plenty of powder and lead on this river either as a purchase or to shoot there are no beaver here We arrived at the Fort of V. on the 15- th Nov having had no rain during this time. I must here men- tion the very kind gentlemanly conduct of Mr. Jas. Bernie suprintendent of Ft. G. who assisted me to a boat and pilot for the outer harbor and acted the part of host to perfection I had 178 JOrRXAL: [235 much pleasure with a little liquor and a pipe in his company he has seen much of this country and is of the old N. W. concern I derived much information from him on my return to the fort my men came forward and unanimously desired to be released from their engagement with a view of returning home as soon as pos- sible and for that end to remain here and workforamaint[en]ance until an opportunity should occur, I could not refuse they had already suffered much and our number was so small that the prospect of remuneration to them was very small I have there- fore now no men these last were Mr. Ball Woodman Sinclair, Breck, Abbot, Tibbits the}' were good men and persevered as long as perseverance would do good I am now afloat on the great sea of life without stay or support but in good hands i. e. myself and providence and a few of the H. B. Co. who are perfect gentle- men During my absence Guy Trumbul died on the 7th of Nov. of the Cholic an attack of which he had on the Platte of which he nearly died in this case he was taken in the evening and died earh' in the mng. His funeral was attended by all the Gentlemen at the place and pra^'ers were said accord[ing] to the form of the Church of England for this attention to my affairs in my absense was considerate to my feelings and I hope will be duly appreciated service is here perform- ed on Sunday and on the days prescril)ed by the church of ling, our excursion down the river was performed in an Indian canoe which we hired for a 3 ]/z point Blankett[?] We found it very kittish but withall a good craft for sailing and easy to paddle but the men were exceedingly awkAvard. igth From this to the 29th I remained at Fort Vancouver eat- ing and drinking the good things to be had there and enjoying much the gentlemanly^ societ}^ of the place. On the 29th. with Abbot and Woodman in an Indian canoe I started for a journey up the Wallamet or Multonomah River this river which is highest in the winter was so at this time but is not rapid until near the falls the subjoined scetch will shew its course as I made it distance by the river by my estimate i~ Yi miles to the falls which are perpendicular about 20 feet past these we carried our canoe about % mile and launched above the falls the water though generally more rapid above would admit of the ruiniing of a steam boat. In this river at this time there is more water than in the ]vIissouri and not of a more difficult character to navigate the tide flov^s to within 8 miles of the falls below the fall the banks of the river are not suitable for cultiva- tion being overflowed as far as the bottom extends which is not far and beyond these the country rises into rocky hills unfit for tillage but producing very large timber mostly if not all of the pines On the bottoms there is consid[e]rable oak of a kind not found in the vStatcs lint of excellent quality for ship l^uilding and is 236] WYETH'S FIRvST EXPEDITION. 179 the only kind of oak found in the country of the Columbia I noticed but two streams coming into the river below the falls the river to within 6 mils of its junction with the Columbia runs along the N. E. side of a range of hills or as the}' would be called in N. E. mountains at the falls it passes through this range this river has two mouths the East one is the one I assended the west one follows the range of hills above described to their falling on the Columbia about 3 miles below the eastern entrance [of] the mouth of this river is in Latt 45 deg. 36 min. 51 sec. Long. 122 deg. 48 min. Above the falls for 22 mils by estimate the banks of the river are high enough to prevent [overjflowing but timbered and not fertile and rough and the country apparently' not valuable except for timber which is here mostly of the pines except a small quantity of cotton wood and alder the latter is here a tree of sometimes a foot and an half through at the falls the H. B. Co. are erecting a saw mill to which the}' contemplate adding a grist mill the scituation for mill priviledges is beyond any thing I have ever seen 22 mils from the falls are 3 or 4 Canadians settled as farmers the}' have now been there one year have Hogs, Horses, Cows, have built barns, Houses, and raised wheat, barely, potatoes, turnips, cab[b]ages, corn, punkins, mellons The country here becomes open, but still wood enough and a much greater proportion of oak prairies of from i to 30 miles in extent bound by a skirting of timber this country seems a valley between the mountains to the East and West of about 50 miles wide including both sides of the river and is very level of nearly uniform soil extremely rich equal to the best of the Missouri lands. Accounts vary much as to its southerly extent I have seen it at least 75 mils in a southwardly direction and from all I can learn I think it extends with but little inter[r]uption as far south as the vall[e]y of the Buneventura which is also of the same description of country, and I have never seen country of equal beauty except the Kanzas country and I doubt not will one day sustain a large population 10 mils by land above the first settlement and 30 by the river is another by a Mr Jervie which Vi'as a very fine beginning of one years standing of the same character and product as the one below in all about 9 settlers are on this river if this country is ever colonised this is the point to commence the river is navigable for canoes to its very sources but as I understand very circuitous deer abounds in this district and wolves one of which a large devil I shot these settlers I found exceeding attentive to my comforts especially Mr Jervai at whose house I slept 2 nights I was absent from the fort this time 10 days. To the 4th Jany. the weather was little better than a contin- u.al rain not however a hard rain often but a drizzling uncomfort- able air during December there fell 9)4 inches rain by a pluvi- ometer on the 4th the wind came strong to N. N. E. with fair iSo JOURXAL: [237 and cool weather Tlier. averaging about 19 Deg. this continued to the 8th when there is much floating ice in the river and those here think that w^ith two days more of this weather the river will close. The readiness w[it]h which the river fre[e]zes must arise from the water getting intensely cold in the upper countr3\ Du- ring this month Mr. McKay gave our room a treat of Buffaloe meat salted and smoked and this being the first opportunity of comparing good Buffaloe meat with other good meat was highh' acceptable. I think it equal to the best meat ever eaten. Up to the 4th there was no frost in the ground and ploughing is com- monly done all the winter during the latter part of January the River rose about 4 feet which must have arisen from the rains as there could be no melting of snow on the Mountains at this seas- on these rains must have I think extended farther back than is described to be their range viz the falls at which the timbered countr}' terminates. Carrots are here finer and larger than I have ever before seen one I think was 3 inches through and of fine flavor. There appears much sickness amon[g] the people here es- pecially among the common people which I think arises from low diet and moist weather for as far as I can observe the gentlemen who live w^ell are not much subject to disorders, the main dis- order is an intearmittent fever which has carried off"all or nearly all the Indians who live even worse than the engages. The Lima which sailed a month since had not to the ist Jany. got out of the river. I have been Informed b}- Mr Douglas and Mr. Finlesson that ves- sells have laid off the bar 7 weeks before they could enter. nth Jany. The River closed with ice and I am detained here until it opens. Last winter the river remained frozen 5 wrecks there is yet no snow. Toda}- heard by Mr Hermatinger of the death of Mr Vande[r]burg killed by the Blackfeet up to this time the weather continued clear and cold for this country the Ther. varying from 12 deg. to 20 deg. On the iSth at 2 oclock it commenced hailing and at day light the hail was about 2 inches on the ground the River closed on the loth and so remains at present on the 14th I walked across the Columbia and found the ice about 6 inches thick where it lay smooth l->ut it was much turned up edge wise afternoon of the 1 8th commenced Raining and on the 19th rains still the hail was at one time from ij/^ to 2 inches deep on the i8th. 19th after raining hard all night there is no snow left it is warm and showery to day Ther. 54 deg. 20th Raining stil[l] and Ther. 52 deg. River not yet cleared ice stationary. 2ist 22nd warm and Rainy. 23rd The river Broke up still warm Ther. 51 deg. I am informed by Mr Dav. Douglas that a Mr Woodard whom he saw in Calafornia was intending to come to the Columbia for Sal- mon he is a Brother-in-law to Capt. Kbbets and is from New 23S] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. iSr York Mr. Douglass saw him in Calafornia in July 1832. I am informed b3' Doct J. McGlaucland that he has seen strawberr5's ripe here in Dec. and in blossom in Jany. the weather warm up to the 28th with occasional rains there is now little ice on the river on the banks the wreck and rubbish of the breaking up of the river. The H. B. Co. are now making a fort at Nass. to counter- act the Am. vessells on the coast. 28th Warm still and fair the Co. are about sending a party under Mr. Manson to make a fort at Milbank Sound. 30th Today a party sent to enquire after another reported to be cut off beyond the Umquoi or near the Clammat River under a man by the name of Michelle returned having as- certained that one white and two Inds. only of said partv had been killed this party I [am informed] was under a man by the name ofDuportt I requested to accompany him but the Gov. would not consent alledging the^y] would conceive that I came to avenge the death of Mr. Smiths party who was cut off by the Umquoi Indians, all which I interpreted into a jealousy of my motives this part}^ brought back 200 skins which they had traded they did not go be^^ond the Umquoi, they were gone 2 months lost no men and but 2 horses which Died of fatigue. 31st to the 3rd. Feb. we had warm and wet weather on the 3rd at 10 ock. we started for Wallah \\'alla I had with me two men and am in compan^^ with Mr Ermatinger of the H. B. Co. who has in charge 3 boats with 120 pieces of goods and 21 men. I parted with feelings of sorrow from the gentlemen of Fort Van- couver their unremitted kindness to me while there much en- deared them to me more so than it would seem possible during so short a time Doct McGlaucland the Gov. of the place is a man distinguished as much for his kindness and humanity as his good sense and information and to whom I am so much indebted as that he will never be forgotten by me this da^^ we came to the Prarie Du LiLs] 15 miles raining most of the day, 4th Left the prairie Du Di[sJ on the lower end of it this prairie is about 3 miles long and through it the River Du Li[s] a small creek enters the Columbia we made but 2 miles when one of our boats ran foul of a rock atid was stove it landed its cargo without v.-etting much this accident detained us till }{ before 12 ock when we started and kept on till 2 ock and stopped 20 minutes to dine then kept on till Vo. past 5 ock making 17 mils this day this River is at medium water the rivers banks high precipitous and rocky from the Lea prairie in one place the bank on the N. side rises to 200 feet perpendicular I saw a hawk light on a pro- jecting crag about half way up which gave me a good idea of the height of the rock from this rock a small stream casts itself into the Com. w[h]ether a permanent one or not cannot say but should think not there are here many white headed Eagles one skunk we saw toda3' the timber appears much smaller than below no i82 JOrRXAL: [239 rain but cloudy this day wind west and Ther. about 40 deg. now at 8 ock at night the full moon is looking down calrah' up- on usap[p]arently thinking that thecaresof us humble hidividuals concern her little. 5th We left camp at 7 ock and made 4 miles to breakfast and in 7 mils more the foot of the Cascades our breakfast was made on a small island abreast of a rock rising perpendicular from " the bed of the river as I should think 400 feet high Lewis & Clark call it I think 700 feet this rock is nearly surrounded by the waters of the river The Cascades occasion a portage of 100 rods our goods were carried across this day the river is here compressed into a very small place and the bed is full of rocks I should think the fall to be about 8 feet in the space of the 60 rods There are here two fishing villages both now deserted as the people here say from the inmates being all dead of the fever but I suspect some are dead and the rest and much larger part fright [en]ed away we made the portage b}^ the North side on which is one of the above villages it is near the river on a little clear spot with a little lake in the rear here the Inds were once hostile and great caution was once used in passing now but little is requisite it rained all the latter part of the day and night and morning of the 6th finished the portage but our boats were so bruised that the rest of the day was taken to gum them took a look about me the rest of the day found that the tripe de roche grew on the rocks here but small here there are many petrifactions of wood in a bank of gravell some of which are perfectl}' petrified and will not burn in the fire but others appear only half so and burn and cut freely they are found bedded in stone composed of rubble of some former world the gravel is cemented together by finer gravell the whole being volcanic and water worn. 7th At V y^ mile above the Cascade is a small river from the N. and 4 ^z above this a creek from the N. rained all the 6th and rains a little today came in all 27 miles passed many Indian habitations on the river and canoes 15 mils above the Cascades is a Torrent that precipitates itself into the river from about 60 feet 17 mils from same on same side viz south is a creek both small one between them on the X. side tim- ber growing gradually thitnier. 8th We found that a Capeau and 2 blanketts had been stolen by some Inds. from one of our men and went to the village just below our camp to recover them they acknowledged the theft but the thieves had run off we took two canoes to our camp and breakfasted immediately after breakfast the man who had lost the articles took an ax and broke the worst canoe for which he was reprimanded by ViX Ermatinger the other he left and a little after we left I saw the Ind. come and take it we made 29 mils to the Dalles whicli are one mile or thereal)outs long and en- 24o] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 183 camped having passed two of the boats the other owing to some mistake had she[e]red out and forced the line from those who were towing and forced one Indian into the stream and was drowned he was on a bank about 15 feet high he swam until he got into a whirl pool and went down. Just below the Dalles the timber ceases there are here manj^ Indians Tilky & Casineau are here the chiefs and ver}' clever ones all this day we saw Indians on the banks the water passes even now at a furious rate and at high water it is impassible and boats are carried as much as two mils and all the goods for assisting through this place a little tobacco is given the Inds. we gave the usual quantity and saw a personal struggle for the division of it. 9th Left the Great Dall[e]s and in three miles came to the lit- tle dalles which we passed by towing in which we were delayed by reason of having only two lines one having been lost at the time the Indian was drowned in three miles more I arrived at the Shutes or falls of the Columbia which are not in this stage of the water more than ten feet perpendicular but much more than that includhig the rapids above and below in the immediate vi- cinity these falls once during the times the whites have been here have been sailed up owing as I suppose to the Dalles at such times affording a slow outlet to the accumulated waters and their being raised by this circumstance to above the level of the falls this day got our baggage and goods over at the G. Dalles I tra- ded one horse which I sent on b}^ Abbot at the Shutes we found about 150 to 200 Indians who were very troublesome [having] to pay for very trifling services however the}^ stole nothing. loth Passed over and gummed the boats and at Yz past 12 started up the river having traded another horse and sent it on by Woodman one mile above the river Aux Rapide comes from the south the size of the stream I cannot tell as I only saw the mouth of it here on the N. side of the river Abbot came to me having lost the horse entrusted to him I took Mr. Woodmans and gave [left?] Abbot with orders to wait until 10 ock tomorrow and then to come on whether he got the horse or not we came today 9 miles and 6 yesterday here we have to give a piece of tobacco for every stick of wood we get last night was the first frost I have seen since the river broke the grass is somewhat green this part of the river affords trout in small quantit}'. nth Started at an early hour and made the mouth of a con- siderable stream coming from the S. called John Days River from a hunter of that name formerty in this country distant from our last camp 7^2 milles we camped 22 >^ miles from this on the North side of the river having had a strong and fair wind all day one thing I observed in this part of the River is that the savages are civil and as much as one in ten has lost an eye as I suppose from the effects of the fine sand of the river being blown about or the violent wind for which this part of the river is noted iS4 joi;rxal: [241 we found some few roots and little game Vv'ith the natives the night was windy and uncomfortablLe] but no frost but a little rain 12th At ^ past 6 we started and made 2 miles to breakfast on the N. side tair wind and clear one boat stove and must stop to repair and gum found two small logs of drift wood at 10 ock. recommenced our journey with a fair light wind and made in all this da}' 17 miles during the day had the satisfac- tion of seeing Abbot come up but without finding the lost horse. r3th Calm in mug. but after breakfast had a fair and mid[d]ling strong wind at i ock passed the upper end of Grand Island an Indian to day brought me a pouch and horn stolen from one of my men going down but the balls and powder used up which I redeemed for a little tobacco last night a frost not severe made this day 25 miles found wood enough for use on the banks but it is a custom of the Indians to run along the beach and take possession of the wood there ma}' be and sell it [to] you for tobacco which appears to be their greatest luxury a quid is pa}- for almost an3-thing. 14th We started at 6 ock and in one mile passed the River Ottillah one mile above which rapids commence the[se] we passed one mile long making 3 to breakfast and started at ^2 past 10 with a fair and strong wind and reached Wallah Walla at 5 p. m. just beforCel reaching this place the cut rocks close into the river in such a manner that there appears but a small per- pendicular sided gap to look through past these and at W. W. both bank[s] fall down to a nearly levell plain we were again hospitably received by Mr. P. C. Pambrun we remained at this post until the 19th. of Feb. the weather mild and clear but high S. W. winds W. W. is a place noted for high winds a little frost during the nights only gras[s]just getting green My horses in tolerable good order and all found eat horse meat all the time at this post On Sunday took a ride up the river W. W. found its bottoms good but not extensive and no wood the corn for this post 150 bushells last year was raised at least 3 miles from the fort none was stolen b}' the Indians a good test of their honesty as they are all most always starving. This place is kept by about 5 men Inds. are freely admitted inside of it about 1200 skins traded here it is kept up mostly for trading horses and the saf[e]ty of the communication the course of the Wallah [Wallah] river is E. by X. near the fort when I saw it. TQth Just as we were leaving the fort an Indian l:)rought in the horse which Abbot lost at the Dalles and a short time after leaving the tort an Indian sent by Mr. P. brought one other which had strayed from Abl)ot at this place we made this day 17 miles to a branch of the Wallah [Wallah] river here coming from the N. the space nearly a plain and barren and sandy but good grass this branch appears to be about half the Wallah [Wallah] river encamped a little after sundown and for 12 yards blue clths. i Hlkt. 242] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 185 2/^ pt 50 balls & powder 2 knives i lb. Tobacco bunch beads, 10 fish Hooks traded a good horse this appears a fair price here. 20th We made a late start and after travelling 9 hours without water arrived at the Snake river here running W. our course was this day N. by E. 22 y^ miles over a country which would be considered light sandy land with little sage grass good and in tufts very level except some trifling roundly swelling hills these make one think of gently swelling breasts of the ladies. Day warm and clear We in the first of the day followed the branch of the W. W. mentioned yesterda3' say four miles on which I saw blackbirds which Mr. Pambrun says stay at W. W. all winter. 2 1 St No frost in morning. Crossed the river to the mouth of a creek coming into the river from the N. for 10 miles which was the length of our march this day this creek is through cut rocks of moderate height for this country. We followed the stream on the east bank. These banks were about 300 feet high to the levell of the plain if that can be called a plain where the hills rise to an almost equal height and the gullies are abrupt and narrow. The soil was what would be called in N. E. a poor sandy soil producing good grass but still no wood Traded two horses this day at the usual rates The people who are most used to this country are so little afraid of the Indians that they either travel without guns or with them unloaded. 22nd A pretty hard frost in the morning followed the river one mile on the North side then crossed it and made North 3 miles and crossed a branch of it coming from the N. W. Our course this day N. by E. and encamped at a little run of water running S. E. This is inconsiderable Saw about 20 antelope this day in one herd at our camp this nigh[t] observed about 2 inches of frost in the ground this da5^s ride over very rocky country the val- leys of which are very good but small otherwise more sandy than common grass good Made 22 Yi miles 23d N. 17 miles over a rough and Rock}^ country with a few small bottoms which are good land at 9 miles from last camp passed some of the best specimens of Basaltic colum[n]s which I have seen They were 5 sided and about 50 feet high some standing independent others tumbled down to the foot of the wall like demolished Towers This days march [passed] many small lakes whether formed by the snow or not I can not say but I think some of them are permanent none larger than a few acres Camped at a stream coming from the N. and were visited by three Indians who report the road to Colville impassable for snow a hard frost last night and frost in the ground beside the lakes mostly frozen over but not thick these made me think of the old buisness of my life. 24th 20 miles N. through timber in the first of which we en- camped last night the stream which we camped on here forks i86 JOURNAL: [243 no game except two small prairie hens passed man}' little lakes one of which is as large Fresh Pond and one nearly so the rest smaller Patches of snow and one third of the trees prostrated last year by southerly gale their trunks much obstructed the path before us on the right are snow covered and moderately high Mts. found good wood at our camp by the light of which I now write the scene reminds me of my Ice men at work by torch light not frost enough in the ground to prevent driving tent stakes the little [rain] and snow made streams [which are] run[ning] Southerly 25th in a N. direction 15 miles to vSpokan River a stream now about half as large as the Snake River it is now high from the melting of the snow its sources are not distant and in a range of Mts. in sight this Range runs about N. \V. which is here the general course of the stream but how far I cannot say as it is visible but a short distance at this place are the remains of the old Spokan House one Bastion of which only is now standing which is left by the Indians from respect to the dead one clerk of the Co. being buried in it the banks of this river are here rocky and precipitous I observed among the rocks of its bed Granite Green Stone Quartz sandstone Lava or Basalt the country on approaching this river from the South resembles the pine plains of N. Hampshire near Concord we passed the divide between the waters of this and the last river about 5 mils from our last nights Camp striking then after passing the isolated wood in which we had camped and a large plain devoid of wood a deep valley running N. Crossed the most of our baggage today 26th Arrived[?] After perusing the enclosed loose papers I proceed* 27th Marcht due N. E. by N 24 miles we made this day This line cuts the Spokan river This point we turned but I call the course direct for convenience this course is through a tolerable fertile prairie the grass good and flowers plenty on the W. side are low range of rocky hills which are granite and a better development of the broken rock named yesterday I find it to be volcanic by its being [a .word omitted] blending with porous rock on our left and about half way of the days march passed a mile distant a little *The loose papers referred to were prolmbly pinned to the preceding leaf of the journal, but have been lost. They no doubt were the journal notes made by Mr. Wyeth while taking a trip from the "Spokan House" to Fort Colviile and Ijack. That Mr. Wyeth took such a trip is evident from the fact that one of the letters bearing" the date of March 12th 1833 was written from Fort Colviile. The journal of March 28th refers to such a trip and the return to the "Spo- kan house". fTlie word "March" is to be read as part of the date. The trip referred to above seems to have consumed exactly a calendar month. 244] WYETH'vS FIRST EXPEDITION. 187 lake Yz mile across to the E. by N. of this is a lake 3 miles across from which the Spokan flows neither of these I have seen but take this from hearsay arrived at our camp and all well and in better order I have forgot to mention that the stream that comes into the Spokane near the House brings down peb[b]les of volcanic rock also that the streams near our present camp come from the hills enter the prairie of the Spokan River and disappear in the ground. 28 Made 18 miles N. through a level and wooded country and camped with only snow water and poor grass the rocks seen to day are holders of granite and observed that the compass in one place would not Traverse this happened while going to Colville from Spokan and coming from there back also observed Today and yesterday the effects of some former gale in prostrated trees direction here S. W. 29 horses missing in mng. and not found till noon went N. 9 miles and struck Flat Head River compass again refused to traverse through deep snow today and yesterday and thick young trees and fallen timber observed here the white pine and Hemlock snow and rain all 5^esterda3' found our people at the river with the boats. 30th Remained at the same place crossed the river I here saw an Indian who was entirely blind he seemed to be taken good care of by his relatives made him a small present for w^hich he thanked me parted company with Mr Ermatinger he to go on wnth the goods by water myself with horses by land last night the coldest for some time today warm and pleasant 31st Moved early N. 7 miles passing a point and two little streams Excessively bad going in crossing the point from snow and brush E. two mils along the river N. N. E. 5 miles to the Lake then a line to our camp cutting the lake 5 mils more N. N. E. This lake is about three miles broad and indeed the river so far resembles a long lake little or no current and ^ miles wide plenty of pa[r]t ridges, ge[e]se, and Duck and some deer meat of the Indians all clay country mountainous one Horse gave out and left him a good lo[d]ge made of Branches of Pine had almost made me forget that it had snowed and rained all day ourselves and goods were wet through we had no human com- fort except meat enough to eat and good. ist April E. 2, N 3, E by S. 3, and found that from this spot the place where I entered on the lake [it?] bore S. W. N. by E. 2, E. by S. 5 N. 3 and made the traverse of a large peninsular at one mil[e] E. by N. struck the head of a creek which after 3 miles more led us back to the Lake at the entrance into it of the River Fete Plate. This Lake is a large and fine sheet of water it appears of a good depth There looks as if a large river entered on the S. side at the east end it is widest and there are two Islands it is surrounded by loft^' and now snowy Mts. but their summits are i88 JOURNAL: [245 timbered yesterday saw nothingbut Granite today saw Slate and Sandstone not the least volcanic appearance in this part of the Countr3\ 2nd Made E. S. E. 6 mils through a difficult swamp over a hill and to the main river again during which time we passed two small streams this swamp had the largest cedars apparently the same as those of the N. E. that I have ever seen I measured one at my height from the ground of 31 feet circumferance and I presume some w^ere larger no rocks to day but sandstone and slate camped on ace. of my horses having had no feed lately the slate is tortuitous and I think mica slate here my Indian brought me in some onions and two kinds of trout some of the trout I have bought of the Indians as large as 10 lbs. thej^ are plenty and taken with the hook there are plenty of ducks and ge[ejse the Ducks are the [same] as the tame ducks of N. E. 3d 10 mils almost due E. cutting a mountain and through almostimpenetrablewo[o]d and deep snow much trouble and delay to keep the trail from the mountain 4 mils from last nights camp saw our last camp on this Lake which bore W. by N, to night we camped without grass but could not go further some of the horses strayed in the trail behind 4th Started our Indian early to find the strayed horses and started camp ahead 9 mils E. following the river the whole way altho the trail cuts off the point and encamped where the trail again strikes the river at this place there is a considerable [creek] coming from the E. by N. into the river here for the first time since reaching Walla Walla I saw fresh Beaver sign the Indian has not yet come up with the horses and little feed for those we have with us to day saw a small sized Bear but he was off too soon for a shot 5th 12 mils E. S. E. through deep snow and thick wood most of the way sometimes miry sometimes slippery with ice and always obstructed by the great quantity of fallen wood East, night late the Indian brought up all the lost horses 6th 9 mils E. S. E. trail better slate rock onlj' Camped on the river last night in the mountains. Yesterday two horses gave out left a man to keep them and bring them up if possible to day one gave out which I will leave at this camp for same man 7th Arrived at the Flathead post kept bj- Mr. Rivi and one man after a ride of 17 mils E. S. E. through thick wood not very good trail and a snow storm which loaded the pines in such a manner as to bend them down to the ground frequenth' load- ing me with the snow as passing I disturbed the branches trees loaded down in this way and frozen so as to be firm constitute much of the difficulty of the route from Flathead or Ponderay Lake to this place want of grass at this time of the year the residue with ,2,46] WYETH'vS FIRST EXPEDITION. 189 some mire rock mica slate this place is scituated on a fine prairie 2 mils long i wide and seems pleasant after coming through thick woods and mountains counting my horses found 32 of 47 with which I started but think I shall recover all but one left on the I^ake having sent men and Indians in search of them Mr E. came in the boats in 5 days I have now news by four Indians who came in on the 6th on foot the Nez Perces have lost all but 4 horses of their band of about 500 stolen by the Blackfeet The Flatheads expected in about 15 days on the nth start- ed out to see if there were many beaver in the countrj^ with intention of staying 12 days but was recalled by the arrival of the buffaloe Indians found few beaver and the country can only be trapped on foot plenty of pa[r]tridges to be found in thiscountr}^ arrived again at the post on tho 17th of April my route was back on the Flathead River. 1 8th to 20th remained at the post having now found all my horses started camp 2 miles East up the river and to the upper end of the prairie on which the house is built at this place is a large creek coming from the N. 2ith rained hard last night and from the 17th to this day have had one or more slight showers each day the plain is now good grass we are much an[n]o3^ed by the dogs of the Indian village which are numerous they eat all our cords and fur flesh they can get at in the night this is always a great trouble while travel- ling with Indians until you get to Buffaloe where they find bet- ter food for three nights no frost This valley is the most romantic place imaginable a level plain of two miles long by I wide on the N a range of rocky and snow clad Mts. on the S. the Flathead river a rapid current and plenty ot good fish- ing running at the immediate base of another lofty Snowy and Rocky range of Mts. Above and below the vall[e]y the mountains of each range close upon the river so as apparently to afford no outlet either way about 200 horses feeding on the green plain and perhaps 15 Indian Lodges and numerous barking dogs with now and then a half breed on horseback galloping gracefully with plent}^ of gingling bells attached to all parts of himself and horse it is really a scene for a poet nought but man is wanting to com- plete it 22nd Moved 8 mils E. N., E. along the river at 6 miles passed a ver^^bad rock called le Roche Mauvais the mountains as yet closely follow the river on both sides but seem declining in height as we stopped early we spent the rest of the day in pre- paring to prevent the blaLcjk Foot from stealing our horses they have have never but once passed the bad rock and then the Flat- heads gave them such a beating as keeps [them] since in better order the[y] infest much the countrj^ we are now about entering I90 JOURNAL: [247 23d Moved 8 mils E. N. E. to Horse plain thence N. E. 5 mils cutting a hill and leaving the River which we had her[e]- tofore followed decending the Mts E. N. E. 6 mils to a large open vall[e]y in the hills with little timber and much grass op- posite to our Camp is a mountain where 200 Flatheads Conterays, Ponderays and other Inds. were killed by the Blackfoot Inds. During the first part of the last division of the days march passed a small lake with many waterfowl and one sand hill crane. We are now fairly in the dangerous Country through Horse plain and into the R Flathead is a small brook to day 2 Indians ar- r[i]ved from the main Flathead Camp at Porte D'enfer with news that the Blackfoot have made 2 h[a]vUs of horses from them the Flathead Camp consists of men of various tribes 24 mooved E. by S. down the valley to Flathead river then 4 miles E. following the river then Forded it and made 3 mils E. by N. and encamped on it at a place where last year a man by the name of La Couse was [killed] by the Blackfoot Inds. the river is not now high when so it is not fordable and is here a good sized stream the salts here whiten in the ground and the animals are almost crazy after it which makes them bad to drive the morning was sult[r]3' and I travelled without my coat but in the afternoon we had a fine [sjhower with some thunder of good quality the vallLely we left today abounds with the finest Kamas I have yet seen as provisions are scarce in camp the women dug much of it 25th Mooved Camp up the main river 12 mils E Yi N. then up a large but fordable branch 3 mils E. by S. trail fine grass good weather beautiful no frost for three nights the Climate ap- pears much as at Baltimore at this season 26th made E. along the creek last named 5 miles then crossed and followed it 4 mils S. E. then recrossed it and followed it E. S. E. 3 mils crossing a small branch then 2 mils recrossing the main creek again then followed i mile E S. E. and recross- ed it and followed a small branch of it S. E. i mile crossed the branch and followed it 2 mils S. E. to Camp clear except i shower but only comfortably warm Count[r]y hilly but open E. lay a heavy pile of snowy Mts. 5 rails distant ap[p]arently running N. & S. the rocks for a few days have been Sandstone mica slate this day saw a white bear which we surrounded to kill but he broke through and escaped earth in some places whitened with salt which makes the horses bad to drive horses getting fat grass good as also the bottom lands which are toler- ably extensive 27th Remained at same camp snowed a little this day the Inds went hunting and got one Deer 28th Abbot brought in one Beaver started Camp 2 milsS. E. 2 S.S.E.2 S.4 S.by W. thus far through woods and a defile crossing the vide between the creek which we were on and another going to 248] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 191 that branch of th^ Flathead river to [which] we came this day. then into open plains snowy mts on each side 3 mils S. S. E. then 5 mils S E by E crossing two slews of the Flathead river and Camped on a third and larger one which we shall be obliged to raft over I judge it twice as large as the one we crossed some days since the river here runs S. W. a little snow today quarrelled and parted with my man Woodman he appeared to think that as I had but two he might take libertys under such circum- stances I will never yield an inch I paid him half as I conceive he had gone half the route with me here we met some Inds from the great Camp which they say is a moderate Camp distant 29th Forgot to mention in proper place that I saw Plumb trees at the place we left W. branch of the Flathead river these are said to be good about [one] inch through ripe in Sept. and found nowhere else but at this place I tried hard to get some stones but could not Moved this day S. S. W. we crossed by fording contrary to expectation by loading high and taking high horses at 8 miles struck another branch of same river as large as those already passed at 4 miles further a creek from opposite side ford tolerably good at 20 miles came to main Camp of no Lodges Containing upward of 1000 souls with all of which I had to shake hands the Custom in meeting these indians is for the Coming party to fire their arms then the other does the same then dismount and form single file both sides and passing each other shake hands with men women and children a tedious job bufifaloe have come here and even further but the)' are killed at once and do not get wonted herfe] the racine amani or Spetulum is found this Camp is on the river good grass river direct S. S. W. six nights since the Blackfoot stole horses from this Camp here I found thre[e] Canadians one of whom was one who came to us the night be- fore we were fired on on the heads of the Spanish River this days march between two parralled ranges of Mts now Snowy but I think not always so there is much kamas in this region we find little meat in the Indian Camp and are therefore much short- [e]ned for food 30th went out to collect some flowers for friend Nuttall after- wards to see the Camp find 120 lodges of us today some having arrived they are collecting to go to the Bufifaloe in force to meet the Blackfeet looked at their games one is played by two men at a time a level place is made on the ground about 15 feet long by 3 feet wide with a small log of wood at each end to stop a small iron ring which one of them rools from one end of the all[e]3^ to the other both following it each having an arrow which they endeavor to throw after and under it so that when stopped it will rest on one of them the one on whose arrow it is wins at least this is all I understand of the game the game is kept by a third by means of placing sticks on one side or the 192 JOURNAL: [249 Other another feat much in practice from the smallest to the largest in Camp is two with some arrows throw them so as to go as near the first thrown as possible advancing continually untill all are expended then throwing them back again in same manner another game is two or more opposite the one side having some small article in their hand keep changing it from one hand to the other as swift as possible accompanied by a tune and motion of body and limbs except feet (for they sit all the time) the get is for the other party to designate the hand in which it rema[ijns at the last this is the most practised game and requires much dexterity on both sides it is kept with sticks as the first every morning some important indian addresses either heaven or his countr3'-men or both I believe exhorting the one to good conduct to each other and to the strangers among them and the other to bestow its blessings he finishes with "I am done["] the whole set up an exclamation in concord during the whole time Sunday there is more parade of pra^^er as above nothing is done Sun- day in the way of trade with these Indians nor in playing games and they seldom fish or kill game or raise camp v;hile prayers are be- ing said on week days ever3'one ceases whatever vocation he is about if on horseback he dismounts and holds his horse on the spot un- til all is done Theft is a thing almost unknown among them and is pttnished by flogging as I am told but have never known an in- stance of theft among them the least thing even to a bead or pin is brought yoti if found and things that we throw away this is sometimes troublesome I have never seen an Indian get in an- ger with each other or strangers. I think you would find among 20 whites as many scoundrels as among 1000 of these Indians they have a mild playful laughing disposition and their qualities are strongh' portrayed in their countenances. They are polite and unob- trusive and however poor never beg except as pay for services and in this way they are moderate and faithful but not industrious, the}' a re ver^'- brave and fight the blackfeet who continually steal their horses and kill their straglers with great success beating hollow equal numbers They wear as little . clothing as the weather will permit sometimes nothing on excep[t] a little thing to cover the privates and sometimes but rare this is ommitted at pla}' but not when there are women and allwa^'s at a race the women are close- ly covered and chaste never cohabiting promisc[u]ously with the men the pox is not much and perhaps never known among them it dies here of itself when brought from the coast where it is rife the yottng women are good looking and with dress and cleanliness would be lovel}- today about 100 of them v.'ith their root diggers in their hands in single file went out to get roots they staid about two hours and returned in the same order each time passing the chiefs lodge it was evidently a ceremony b\it the import I could not learn in a lodge or other place when one speaks the rest pay strict attention When he is done another assents by "yes" or 25o] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 193 dissents b}' "no" and then states his reasons which are heard as attentively it is a practice when a woman has her courses to make a little lod'^e outside her husbands lodge and there remain until they are finished. The more peaceable dispositions of the Indians than the whites is plainly seen in the children I have never heard an angry word among them nor an}^ quarrelling altho there are here at least 500 of them together and at play the whole time at foot ball bandy and the like sports which give occasion to so man 3^ quarrells among white children May I St. Same camp the day reminds me of home and its customs it is a fine and almost summer day altho the nights have been frosty of late but the days are warm This morning the squaws left camp with their root diggers singing in good accord the tunes of their country YesterdCay] Mr. Ermatinger traded 29 beavers I find an Indian Camp a place of much novelty the Indians appear to enjo}^ their amusements with more zest than the whites altho they are simple they are great gamblers in proportion to their means bolder than the whites 2nd Moved Camp 2 miles S. E. by E. 4 miles S by E. over a hilly but open country and diverging a little from the main river to the Eastward and Camped on a small river going to the same river the two parallel ranges of Mts. still continue on either side of the river It rained a little of the last night and some this morning the day is cloudy and moderately warm The absence of quarrells in an Indian Camp more and more surprises me when I come and see the various occasions which would give rise to them among the whites the crowding together of from 12 to 1800 horses which have to be driven into Camp at night to stake in mng, to load the starting of horses and turning of loads the seizing of fuel when scarce, often the case, the plays of men and Boys &c. At the Camp yesterday saw the bones of a buffalo bull not old being the first sign of buffaloe yet seen. 3d. Same Camp. 4th Same Camp To day heard a sound like a heavy piece of ordonance and I suppose arising from the fall of some mighty fragment of rock from the mountains The sound seemed to come from the N. I suppose the sound heard in the Snake coun- try arose from the same cause altho then no heavy mountains were in sight but there were cut rocks enough weather some- what smokey but warm and clear A party of hunters who pro- posed to go out for beaver deferred the thing on ace. of the water being too high to set a trap. A Thunder storm in the afternoon with high wind from the S. W. and Rain. 5th. Sunday according to our reconing there is a new great man no[w] getting up in the Camp and like the restofthewLojrld [he] covers his designs under the great cloak religion his followers are now dancing to their own vocal music in the plain perhaps 1-5 of the Camp follow him when he gets enough followers he 194 JOURNAL: [251 ■will branch off and be an independent chief he is getting up some new form of religion among the Indians more simple than himself like others of his class he works with the fools women and children first while he is doing this the men of sense thinking it too foolish to do harm stand by and laugh but they will soon find that women fools and children form so large a majority that with a bad grace they will have to yield. These things make me think of the new lights and revivals of New England rains a lit- tle today 6th. Bright and clear found all of my horses three of which had been missing Moved 4 mils S. and encamped on a creek of the main river about i Yz mils from the latter yth. Same Camp cloud)' all night and today but warm 8th. Same Camp last night had a false alarm Some Inds. of the camp who were gambling for a gun discharged it before laying [it] on the stakes This though a common occurrence gave the horses a fright and one frightens another in those cases until all are alarmed the running of those that have got loose the snorting stamping and rearing of those who cannot when there are at least 1500 the Howling of dogs men running with guns the contrast of firelights with the darkness of the night make altogether a scene of confusion to be recollected This day hunters went out 2 only one returned stm two hours high with one antelope the other at night with 4 To day a small boy broke his arm but as I understood that the Indians reduce frac- tures well and as I am quite ignorant I did not meddle with it 9th. Moved S. by E 6 mils and camped on the main river on the march saw two bla[c]kfeet who ran with all the speed of their horses to the mountains a little rain but warm high wind and somewhat dusty The rain does not seem to lay the dust in the least The country covered for the first time with sage and so far the same kind of minerals as near the Ponderay Lake This afternoon came to us a Snake a Nez Perce and a Flat head on foot they came from Salmon River and bring no news except that the Nez Perce Camp is at Salmon river and that they are mostly without horses loth Mooved 7 mils E. by E. [?] rained a little shower but clear in the afternoon. This moment Chief (luineo is saying the usual afternoon prayers I observe that he first makes a long one which is responded to by the usual note in accord then a short one followed by the same note on horse back the whole time walking about the Camp hat on in an audible voice and directed as though addressing the men below rather than "him" above To day 1 1 Flatheads started on foot to steal horses from the Black feet nth Started out early hunting for the first time this trip We are now short of provisions. The Camp moved 10 mils S. by Py. and camped on the river the wide bot[t]om of which is 252] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 195 done it is now jammed in between the hills during this dis- tance passed two small creeks big enough for beaver only saw four antelope killed nothing saw two olived green snakes about 2 Yi feet long blunt tail but slender afternoon clear and warm 1 2th Being Sunday remained at same Camp the hills here areof Granite with large bed of quartz. Mica slate is common Gneiss also in some places the same rock as at Kittle falls ob- served in one place a black mineral like that found at Franconis[?] covering iron ore it looks like horse hair in a mass combed straight the hills are now well covered with grass the river is now at its highest but is fordable this morning long prayers in form as usual at some lodges the Inds. are singing as an act of devotion 13th Went out hunting killed one N. E. pa[r]tridge only saw 4 cubs 4 deer Camp moved 6 mils S. S. K. and camped on the W. side we approach the head of this river fast 14th. remained at same Camp snow and sleet all day An Indian died in camp to day but I do not think the Camp was de- layed on that account it was a bad day which I think the reason his friends are now singing over him according to their custom 15th Made 6 miles S. S.E. and crossed the river and camped on a little creek crossing two on the \V. side all too small at low water for beaver, snowed last night and until 8 this mng. altho as much as 4 inches of snow has fallen it is at 11 oclock all gone except the hills which are white grass good Granite country and fertile in the bottoms and and on the hills and mountain sides 1 6th Made 9 mils S. E. following a creek of the main river about Yi the size of the same this we crossed 6 times during the day this morning 4 inches snow which fell during the night but all gone at 9 ock fair at 4 in afternoon this day finishes all our provisions in above distance river crooked , 17th. 2 miles S. E. 3 E and cutting a high mountain i mile S by E. and struck the river again in a large and fertile plain here crossed the main branch of it and followed 2 miles a creek running S by E at the place where we left the river it receives a small creek from the S and where we struck it again another quite small from the N. The main branch appears to run about E. from the plain when arrived at C:imp finding no meat I took my traps out to catch beaver when returning saw the squaw bringing in moss and roots when I came in found the hunters had come in with one bear one Elk and several deer and 5 beaver this makes a timely supply Indians are gone ahead to see the mountain is passiable This mountain divides us from the heads of the Missouri. I8th 2 miles up the creek S. by E. then assending the mountain S. E. 2 more then 2 S b}' E down the mountain and struck a little thread of water which during 28 mils 196 JOURNAL: [253 increased gradually to a little river and S. E. to another coming from the S. and both go off together N, this is one of the heads of the Missouri we crossed it and camped here we found both Bulls and cows which makes all merry this pass is good going when there is no snow now there was about one foot in places drifted more we took 8 hours to pass there is a visible change in the apppearance vegetation is not so forward the trees appear stinted and small the land poorer and covered with Sedge the other side there is little on the W. side all is granite as soon as I passed the divide I saw Pudding Stone we had showers of snow and rain this day but this I believe is con- stant in this region at this time of the year the Mt. is much higher [on] the W. than [on! the E. side This I observed also at the Trois Tetons The grass is poor and has started but little the prairie in some places has snow The vall[e]y runs N and S. and is bounded E. and W. by a range of Mts. this day my horse keeper left me taking an offence at some misinterpretation about a horse. The i6th. Woodman came to camp from his hunt for beaver tired and famished having eated nothing for three days 19th Same Camp snowed by fits most of the day being Sunday the medicine chief had devotional exercises with his fol- lowers he formed them into a ring men women and children and after an address thej^ danced to a tune in dancing the[y] keep the feet in the same position the whole time mer[e]ly jumping up to the tune keeping the hands in front of them at intervals he addressed them at night Blackfeet were seen prowling about the camp at least so the Indians say erected myself a lodge for the first time in the country and paid a treat of rum &c to the whites in Camp and some of the principal Indians to wet the same as it is called. 29th. Snowing hard in the morning one horse so lame that if we move Camp to day he will remain for the Blackfoot or wolves. Much the same. Started at half past 12 found the horse could be drove a little got him along about four miles shall return for him to morrow this day 9 miles E. S. E. over a level plain of rich deep soil wet and miry in the extreme saw our Indians running buffaloe ahead x^t 5 mils crossed a little brook running N by E and camped on a considerable creek run- ning N. by E. and all falling in to the same as the creek we left At about the junction it doubles round a point of mountains and apparently takes a north [?]eastwardly course rain snow and and sunshine as usual today. 4 hunters left us to da}' to hunt beaver in the Blackfoot country, Pellew, Charloi, Narbesse.Rivey. 2ist. Same Camp sent liack and ])rought the latne horse into Camp Went out to the mountain to cut log poles found a Blackfoot lodge recently occupied snow as usual saw the Indians 254] WYETH'vS FIRST EXPEDITION. 197 cooking a root resembling the yellow dock, but not so yel- low tasted like parsnip raw, informed by them that it is bad before being cooked suppose it is more or less poisonous 2 2d Same camp Blue Devils all Day Turned in 23d 6 miles S. S. E. and up the valley 3 S E by S. 3 S. E. This valley is all good land about four miles wide and perhaps 50 long and how much further it goes N. I cannot say. Went out to hunt bufFaloe killed one Elk out of a large band mountains with snow each side of valley snowed a little as usual 24th A double portion of the usual weather viz. rain Hail snow wdnd rain and Thunder into the bargain we are so near where they make weather that they send it as if cost nothing Course S. E. 6 miles up the creek then bj'- N, E. 3 cutting a height of land but low and perfectly good going to the head of an- other river running S. E. down this two miles and camped hunted today killed one cow saw some hundreds 25th. Followed the creek 5 miles S. S. E. then it turned round a point more eastwardly We continued same course 4 mils and struck a creek going into the same about 2 mils below the point spoken of rain snow & Hail today with sunshine grass better to day had a long ride before sunrise after the lame horse which I brought to Camp. 26th Same Camp A blackfoot Trail discovered in our vicini- ty a numerous camp of them better weather than usual today Sun- day according to our reconing. At night one of two Indians who started on an express to the Nez Perces Camp returned wdth three blankets one white shirt and [some] tobacco and powder which articles they found buried with a Blackfoot Indian who was unscalped two bullets through his head and one through his body We apprehend that there has been a battle between the Blackfoot Indians and perhaps the whites. 27th 17 mils S. crossing two small forks of the Missouri and camping on the third of small size near Camp found a red blankett Hat and some small articles but no body. Soon after Camp arrived one Indian with news and soon after 2 more and three squaws comprising the only survivor[s] of the battle which happened thus 21 Nez Perces 18 Flathead and two Iroquois and I Ponderai started with intent to steal horses from the Black- feet near the head of Salmon River they saw 4 and some horses these they attacked just at this moment a horse threw one of the Flatheads he seized on one of the horses of the Black- feet and ran after him up a mountain he looked back and saw a large number of Blackfeet killing his companions not one surviv- ed but himself he made the best of his way to the Nez Perce Camp to tell the sad tale to the wives and children of the dead in this Camp [where] the relatives of the deceased Flathead are there is weeping and wailing. Fair all day and comfortably warm, there were 46 lodges of the Blackft. do not know if women were igS JOURNAL: [255 with it or not if not it is a much larger Camp than ours, the blanketts &c found are accounted for in the practice that the Blkft. have of cutting a piece of flesh from near the shoulder tying it to an article and throwing it away to propitiate the Deity the circumstance of the flesh being tied with them I did not at first know. 28th Moved S. 8 miles following the left branch of the creek which forks at our last nights camp then S. S. W. 4 miles and camped on the same creek a little rain just after we came to camp a band of Buffaloe passed the camp which gave a fine chance to the Indians to run them one of them they chased into camp and then killed her a fine cow. 29th Moved S. by E. 6 miles cutting the divide of waters and struck a small creek going into Salmon river then 7 miles S by E. following the creek through high hills of lime rock on which we found plenty of sheep some of which were killed then 3 miles S. W. and struck Salmon River here a small creek run- ning through a fine open plain valley about 6 miles wide and ex- tending each way as far as the eye could reach the river runs here about W. by N. On the S. side is a high range of snowy mountains perhaps not covered the whole year this range is parrallel with the river, the country I should call for two days back volcanic flints are found in abundance some of the stones have a white crust on the outside of them whether of lime or Epsom salts can not say both abound the lime rock is most- ly slate blue but is found in layers of all shades from white to deep blue and very much contorted and forming frequent caves and holes. It is the intention of the chiefs to remain at this camp until the Nez Perces come to us and then to move together. This morning left my wounded horse. 30th. Same Camp rained all last night and all day Went up into the mountains to hunt sheep wounded one but a snow storm coming on his trail was covered and I lost him Saw plent}' it is surprising to view the places where they go no one would imagine it possible for an animal to climb the rocks they do Got nothing and hearing a firing hast[en]ed to the top of a hill to see if the Camp was attacked but found that the Nez Perces had ar- rived with 9 whites a Mr. Hodgskins at their head. This party is 16 lodges and only escaped the Blkft. by the latter falling in with 31 Indians 30 of whom they killed It is supposed the 30 killed about 50 of the Blkft. They mustered about 700 ail men and were sufficient to cut off" all our Camps if they would trade man for man. 31st Got news that 20 lodges of Blkft. are now camped at our camp of 2ist Inst, and I think likely that these are thesame who killed the 30 Indians and as usual 10 times over rated. This day moved 7 miles S. li. up the river and following a small creek near our camp of last night a creek comes in from the S. one 256] WYRTH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. igq which we followed coming from N. W. this one froLm]the S. S. E. the main river S. E. went into the mts. saw antelope kill- ed nothing in the mountains heavy thunder with a snow and hail storm and high wind. June I St Same Camp some snow on Mts. got wet. 2nd 17 miles S. E. i E. by N. through an open plain nearly level finished the streams of Salmon river and struck one called little Goddin it terminates near the three butes in a little lake here goes S. E. through the valley the rats, appear terminat- ing on both sides a fair day the S. range comprises much more of a stone which I will call quartz the same as is found at Kettle falls there is also lime stone Blue and without organic remains. 3d 15 miles S. E. through the same vall[e]y gradually de- cending the stream became a rapid and pretty large one as large as some that pass 300 miles We camped at a narrow pass formed of low hills here is between the hills a slough of clay saturated with Epsom salts the hills are of Basaltic rock in collumns the first I have seen in this region lime rock is found here in pudding rock Killed plenty of Buffaloe here 4th. Moved through the vall[e]y following the river called as I am informed little Goddin in a S. E. by E. 6 miles during which space I found the lower hills of Basalt the mts. are ot lime rock the same as passed her[e]tofor[e] Wind high N. W. which brings warm weather here and clear grass very bad. 5th. Clear warm day moved S. E. by E. 8 miles went in search of Buffaloe found none Saw an old Blkft. Camp of 65 fires half as large as our present camp Saw several whirlwinds which raised the dust at a distance and appears much like smoke. Saw the three Butes come in sight one by one and then theTrois Tetons the Butes S. E. b}- S. 20 mils distant about so far this river rapid and little brush and no beaver grass worse and worse. 6th. Same Camp last night arrived 3 Kootenays with 25 beaver who left us on Flathead river being on foot the whole time last night sent out Indians to see in what direction were the most Buffaloe one came back this mng. reports cows to theS. 7th Moved E. N. E. 15 miles and without water the whole route the Trois Tetons bearing E. perhaps 90 miles distant over a level and dry plain without grass or extremely little in the aft- ernoon had a gale from the S. W. which blew down the lodges accompanied with a little rain and enough dust to suffocate one on our left there is a range of high hills from which come numerous streams but they sink in the plain and are warm and muddy went out this evening to bring in the meat of a cow killed in the forenoon and found a horse extremely fat it is sur- prising how fat a horse gets b}' being left to himself no groom- 200 JGXURNAL: [257 ing that I have ever seen will make a horse appear as beautiful as to be left to his own resources the Butes bear due S. 8th 5 miles N. following the same creek up which grows larger as we assend had a fine rain & Hail and Thunder today which is Sunday. Water very muddy grass little and but a little. 9th. 10 miles N. and following the creek has some tolerable wild[?J cotton wood and willow on it wind N. clear and wind}' country same Three Nez Perces arrived at camp Bring news that Payette is with four Nez Perces Chiefs. Capt Serrey with 7 is detained by snow that the Blackfeet village is camped at the spot where we met the Nez Perces. We find that Payette will meet us at the forks Capt Serrey has got 31 horses this day a bull was run into camp which I shot at my lodge door To day an Indian was running bulls he turned the horse stopped and threw him the bull gored him into his chest so that his breath was made through the apparture by the help of the women he reached camp. When Mr. Ermatinger dressed his wound he very composedly made his will by word of mouth the Indians responding in concord at the end of each sentence. He appeared not in the least intimidated by the approach of death. I think the Indians die better than the whites perhaps they have less superstition in regard to the future and argue that as the deity makes them happy here he will also heareafter if there is existence for them. loth. Same camp another Indian came to camp who had been looking out for the Blkft. He was ambuscaded by two of them and narrowly escaped by the goodness of his horse being wounded slightly in the nose. nth Same camp fresh news of the Blkft. Made horse pen that my horses might be safe. I do not apprehend any serious attack but only that they will come suddenly with a great noise of voices and guns and fright[en] the horses on such occasions horses become wild one frights another they run over the lodges this increases the confusion and the yelling firing and run- ing & snorting of 1200 Indians and 1800 horses is frightfull in- deed. Sometimes a camp with as many horses as the above loose every one it is commonly whole or none. Day warm, clear fresh wind W. 12th. Same camp warm day The Blackft camp about 15 mils from this they are very numerous. 13th. Same camp cloudy and cool with high wind from S. E. Blakft. still near but have attempted nothing yet. Child died in camp yesterday- remains to bury today. Find I have missed one day in my journal which has been done while laying at some camp and accordingly date tomorrow the 15th. 15th Last night some Blackfoot fired into our camp a ball passed through a lodge some straggler disappointed of stealing 258] WYETH'S FIRvST EXrEDITIOX. 201 horses I suppose. Mov^ed N. N. E. 5 miles and camped on a creek now almost dr^^ and soon will be wholly. There is little but cotton wood on this creek. i6th. 8 miles N. E. by N. to a small creek which about a mile below this joins another larger one. Country nearly level day windy S. W. wind cool and cloudy Trois Tetons bear E. S. E. Today saw the Indians carrying the man who was wound- ed by a Buffaloe no one could receive more attention, one person to carry w^ater he was on a good bed made on poles the front of which like shafts were carried b}' a horse led by his wife the hinder part b}^ 6 men and women on their shoulders the camp moved slower than usual for him these things give a fav- orable impression of the Indians. 17th. Same camp rained very hard all last night and luitil noon of today an alarm of Blkft last night but I believe little of these things in so large a camp when it is known that there are Blkft. near a man straying out of camp is enough to give rise to a report and a report once raised it gathers like a snow ball. 1 8th. vSame camp Severe hail & snow yesterday- afternoon and rain most of last night and until noon today. Camp alx)ut out of provisions so we are in hopes of moving soon. Nothing but ne- cessity^ and that immediate will induce an Indian to do the least thing, an^- excuse serves to stop buisness with them and a small party of whites who are not strong enough to move alone will find in traveling with them occasion for all the patience they may have. 19th. 1^2 miles to the main rive here going S. \V. this we found quite deep enough to ford for horses the mules I was ob- liged to unload and put the loads on the horses 3[?] miles more passed three slews of our stream joining the last river mentioned. 3 miles more camped on another branch of it making lo'^^ miles N. E. by E. day clear snow in patches in shaded places but the country green with herbage and mostly in blossom. All rocks for some days past volcanic. This stream looses itself in the plain. 20th. Moved 1 1 miles E. by N. and camped on Kamas River so called from the abundance of that root in some spots it is so abundant as to exclude other vegetation. This Prairie is very ex- tensive perhaps 15 miles each way and is intersected by numerous little streams which form one going to the S. and ends in a small lake on the plain between this and Lewis river day clear & cool frost last night snow on all the high hills Trois Tetons bear E. S. E. I should think about 80 miles distant found Buffaloe here the first for 10 days when we found the last I think at least 100 were killed in one day 42 tongues were given to Mr. E. H. and mvself. 202 JOURNAL [259 2ist. Late last night arrived 5 hunters Pillew, Xasben, and Churbo3'e and two Indians who left us on the head of the Mis- souri having seen plenty of recent sign of the Blkfeet but happily saw none they killed 94 Beaver. Today went out to hunt kill- ed one Bull, forenoon showers and lowery Kamas in bloom the Indians are taking large quantities of it this plain is extensive but about 7 miles across of it only is rich and that is as good as any land I ever saw the main plain is much of it bare rock the surface of which looks like a pan of milk when 5'ou push together the cream evidently it was once a fiery and fluid plain or lake of of lava, probably the whole plain between these mountains and the Trois Tetons the rock is porous like honey comb the sur- face shows plainly the heads of Basaltic colums and in some places the colums stand not perpendicular but at an angle of 5c degrees about, same camp. 22nd. Same camp arrived this mng. an express from Bon- neville this express came from the forks in three days they saw Blkft. by the way this afternoon Mr. Hodge left to go to Bon- neville day clear and warm Buffaloe were run into camp. 23rd. Sunday Indians singing and dancing as usual day warm and clear. These Inds. do nothing on Sunday. 24th. Moved across the plain 3 miles N. E. Day warm and clear. 25th Yesterday at night some Inds. came in from hunting Buffaloe reported that they saw two Blkft. and fired on them at night we saw their fire in the Mts. vSame camp fine clear warm day employed in making a saddle. 26th. Same camp went out hunting saw a few Buffaloe but killed nothing but a grou.se as I had some dispute with Mr. David Douglass about the grouse of this country I subjoin a dis- cription; the bird had 10 pointed drab colored, mottled v;ith white, tail feathers the outer edge of the feathers are only mottled until you approach their end when both sides are mottled under the tail are 10 or 12 dark brown feathers =3 as long as the tail feath- ers white at the termination. The tail feathers are about S inches long. The wing feathers are nearly white underneath and dark drab outside. From the head of the breast bone to the tail are many black feathers. On the body under the wings are redish gre}- feathers above the I^reast and nearly on the neck is a place devoid of feathers of a dirtA' olive color each side and a little be- low this is a tuff of short sharp pointed dirty white feathers they look as if they had been clipped with a shears. The tail feathers look as though they had been burnt off leaving the stalk of the quill projecting. The bill is short and curved downwards above the bare spot on the neck are short mottled feathers cream, white and black. It is feathered to the toes which are three and a small one behind. The binder part of the leg is not feathered from the knee downwards Toe nails shcM't and obscure, its l->ack pretty 26o] AVYETH'vS FIRST EXPEDITION. 203 uniformly mottled with deep brown dirty white approaching dirty yellow and dun colored Vv^eight 4 Yi lbs. length from point of tail feathers to tip of bill 25 inches from tips of wings 3 ^ ft. We were regaled by thunder shower on our return to camp saw Blkft. trail and a cow recentl}^ killed by them. 27th. Same camp nothing remarkable. 28th. Same camp nothing but lice and dirt. Cool today. 29th. Same camp as yesterday went out to hunt killed one Buffaloe which fell into the river and had to butcher him up to my middle in cold water. Some hunters who went out today came in with news that they had seen the Blkft. camp on Tobacco river one of the heads of the Missouri they say it is larger than ours. 30th Same camp Sunday Indians praying, dancing & sing- ing- ist July. Moved 2 miles S. and down the creek clear moder- ately warm day the ftrst for three days nights have been frosty ice made in our pots & pails. Men came from Bonneville in the evening. 2nd. Moved S. 12 miles and camped on same creek on the way observed some fine luxuriant clover grass good about 9 miles down the creek w[h]ich rapidly increases in size from num- erous springs w[h]ich are of fine cold water we camped in a clus- ter of large cotton wood large for this place about 10 inches through. 3rd. Last night a Bear made his way into camp among the horses and gave a considerable alarm but was off before guns could be got out. Today moved 16 miles S. S. W. and camped on' same creek with Mr. Bonneville with about 40 men bound for Green river. I have heretofore forgot to mention that at our camp of ist July we left about 40 lodges of the Flatheads coun- try this days route dry and barren day warm. ^ 4th. vSame camp at night saw a band of Blackfeet a little above camp clear warm da}'. 5th. Same camp. 6th. Same camp very warm weather. 7th. This morning our camp forked in three directions Mr. Hodgkin[?] for a trapping excursion with the Nez Perces, Mr. Ermatmger with the Ponderays to go to Flathead river, ourselves East 18 miles to Henrys fork here wooded with narrow leafed cot- ton wood our route over a very dry plain passing at about half the distance some low hills of pure sand with not the least ap- pearance of vegetation. The party is 26 all told. 8th. Followed up the river where we were much annoyed by mosquitos about 8 miles N. N. E. there forded it about belly deep going E. by S. 5 mils to a large river which must be Lewis fork here we found Buffaloe these two rivers form a junction about 15 miles from this point as I believe near two butes but 204 JOURNAL [261 some say not until you get as low as Three Bates on this river are not many mosquitoes. 9th. Made this day 22^2 miles due East toward the Trois Te- tons at 8 miles struck a small creek with cut rock banks run- ning N. W. and to the river last crossed, which is not Lewis fork. At 20 miles cut a mountain which rises and is wooded to the S W. and diminishes to the plain to the N. E. We entered Pierre's Hole and camped on the N. W. side of it. Here w^e found Buf- faloe. loth. Moved 12 miles S. E. crossing a difficult swamp and camped about 2 miles from the battle ground of last year with the Gros Ventres Day warm and a great quantity of grasshoppers for .several days past so much so as to discolor the ground in many places. I ith. vStarted earl}- and made 3 miles E. S. E. to the foot of the mountains then 8 miles E. S. E. to the summit then 6 miles E. to Lewis fork and i mile E. across it at the same place we crossed last year found it very high for fording but succeeded at last. Wind strong N. W. clear and moderately warm. Hors- es troubled with hoise flies on the mountanis but not in this plain foimd buffaloe in the bottom also mosquitoes The river is here much choked up with islands and heaps of drift wood and a great quantity of mud in coming over the mountains lost one mule and .sent a man back for it he has not returned yet [at] sundown got a wet jacket in the river tr5'ing to find a ford. There is the trail of about 8 men who have passed through this defile be- fore us as I think about 14 days they marked a name on the trees and we suppose that the}- are men of Dripps & Fontenelle. We as yet see no appearance of the Blkft. except very old forts and lodges. IvCwis fork here runs vS. E. about 9 miles then turns 1 2th. This morning my man came back having been out all night he found the mule at our last camp. Made this day 9 miles S. F,. along the river then 3 miles E. S. E. to a small creek running into the river. At this place 9 men under Capt. vStevens were attacked by about 30 Blkft. a little later than this time last 3'ear and several of them killed. Mr. Bonneville informs me that when he passed last year in August their bones were laying about the valley. I am apprehensive that More, a sick man whom I left in charge of Stevens, must be one of them. 6 miles moreover a hilly broken limestone country vS. E. to a considerable fork of Lewis river this stream is strongly impregnated with sulphur. This camp is almost without grass. In the first place this morn- ing we moved 3 miles and crossed a creek putting into the river. At our camp of to night there is a small branch joining the creek Irom the vS. 1%. f3th. luist 5 miles X. E. '- mile thn^ugli bad onl rocks on [262 WYETH'vS FIRST EXPEDITION. 205 the N. side of the river there is also a trail on the S. side then Y-i mile E. then }{ mile S. E. then following a left hand fork of the river a few rods N. E. crossed it and made E. 3 miles to the right hand fork again which we followed E. 2 miles then S. E. 4 miles to camp crossing it several times a good trail most of the way one horse of the Indians killed by falling from the cut rock trail down to the river in the first of the cut rocks there is a handsome cave rock lime & sand a few boulders of granite seen today as also on the E. side of the mountains of Pierreshole. The river which we followed this day is rapid and too deep below the branches to ford during the last of the route several small forks from each side. 14th. Made 9 miles S. E. to the height of land between this river and Green river then 5 miles S. S. E. to a creek running in- to Green river, there are good trails all the way and to the di- vide much timber The creek on which we camped last night j ust above the camp divided into three forks. We followed the most southwardly for awhile then mounted the hill on the left side of it. There has been for two days a high range of Mts. on our left about 10 miles distant apparently of sand stone and limestone these [trend] E. S. E. &N. 1<[. W. and on the divide between this and Wind river also on our right there have been a range of Mts. of same composition about 15 mils distant. Both ranges have snow in patches Many alarms today but still no enemys killed plenty of Buffaloe. 15th. Made E. S. E. 12 miles to Green river and to Mr. Bon- nevilles fort day clear and fine. Found here collected Capt. Walker, Bonneville, Cerry, of one Co. Dripps & Fontenelle of the Am. Fur Co. Mr. Campbell just from St. Louis, Mess. Fitzpatric, Gervais, Milton Sublette of the Rocky Mountain Fur Co. and in all the Cos. about 300 whites and a small village of Snakes here I got letters from home. During the last year among all the Cos there has been in all about 25 men killed two of m}' ori- ginal party with them, viz Mr More & O'Neil. [O'Neal?] 1 6th. Same camp. 17th. Moved 10 miles down the river S. E. it is here a large and rapid stream and to be forded only in a few places. Here we were followed by the Snake village we encamped with the Rock}' Mountain Fur Co. 1 8th to the 24 remained at the same camp during which time the weather was pleasant and warm for several nights we were an[n]oyed by mad dogs or wolves which I cannot say but believe the latter as one was killed. I think one animal did the whole mischief as when men were bitten at one camp none were at the other about nine persons were bitten at Dripps & Fontenelles camp and three at ours. D. & Fs. camp is 4 miles above us on the same side of the river we hope he was not mad as no sim- tons have j^et appeared. 2o6 JOURNAL [263 24tb. Moved E. 12 miles cutting a small divide came to a v\'ide valley parallel with Wind river Mts. in which we crossed 3 large creeks and camped on the 4th. which has much pine timber on it and is called Pine fork they all come into one quite soon by appearance and are not near as large as the main fork on which we first found the whites and which we have now cross- ed. In coming here it passed to our left that is up stream. Found plenty of Antelope and Bulls. 25th. Crossed the stream and moved E. vS. E. 3 miles to a creek the same on which I made a cash last 3'ear and crossed at a good ford just below two stony hills then on 7 }^ mile E. S. E. following a branch of the same creek and camped to noon. Buffaloe throwing the dust in the air in every direction and An- telope always in sight. This day a Air. Worthington in running a bull fell from his horse, the Bull furious ran at the horse and passed him within 3 feet then turned again and passed him he having got up from the ground ran and escaped he killed the bull and found he had but one e}'e owing to v.'hich circumstance he escaped. Afternoon made S. E. 13 miles leaving the last creek of what is called New fork to which all the w^aters we have pass- ed since leaving rendesvous belong the one we camped on last night heads in a lake about i Yz miles over and not far from where we slept. We now struck the west fork of Sandy and camped at an old camp of last year at a place where Ball left his rifle[?] Country covered with Buffaloe. 26th. Made S. E. 9 miles and camped on another fork of San- dy then S. E. by E. 15 miles to Sweet water all the countr}^ is granite from rendesvous so far Buffaloe quite plenty also Antel- ope Toda3' shot a cow with a verj^ young calf the calf ran after our mules for a long way until it found the difference. 27th. Made down the creek i y-z miles E. S. E. then E. 8 miles to another branch of Sweet water ihen 6 miles E. by X. to another branch of same then down this branch vS. E. 2 miles and camped. Saw one band of Elk and many Antelope plenty ot Buffaloe. 28th. Made E. 2 mils to another Creek running S. by E. cross- ed made E. 6 miles E. by N. 4 miles at the creek a sort of slate prevailed but soon ran into a red sandstone passed at r i mils a small pond to our right few Buffaloe today last night Capt. Stewart had some sport with a bear near our camp in the willows which he wounded but did not kill He represented him as large as a mule. In the afternoon made E. by N. 6 miles to Sweet water river thenN. E. 3 miles up it and camped. I came ahead and found a white bear in a thickett and after firing a pis- tol and throwing stones into it started him out he came as though he meant to fight us but I gave him the shot of m}' rifle thnnigh the bodv He then rushed on us and I ran as fast as I could Mr. 264] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 207 Kamel [Campbell?] snapped at him Mr Sublette ran also being on a mule the bear followed us no great distance and turned and ran up creek some horsemen followed and killed him after putting 4 more balls into him. 29th. Same camp, rained all day two men went out to hunt and at night one returned alone the other in the morning being still absent. 30th. Started out to hunt the man and in about 8 miles came 10 the place hunted the whole country over and found nothing but a vv^hite bear the largest and the whitest I have yet seen run him about a mile and fired one shot but could not kill him. After a long ride returned to camp found the party had moved on followed them N. N. W. in 6 miles struck Po[r]poise in a small rapid thread running through sandstone banks this we followed N. W. 3 miles then N. by E. 9 miles more thousands of Buffaloe in sight and the red bottom of the streams deep and muddy with re- cent rains and found camp a little after sundown. The afternoon of the 29th we found lime rock almost entirely toda^^ sand stone and a kind of glassy stone resembling Carnelian a coarse kind of which I think it is. 31st N. N. W. 8 miles through a muddv Bottom and little grass to some large willows found a party of 4 whites who have lost their horses and one of them wounded in the head with a Ball and in the body with an arrow verj^ badly they suppose the Snakes did it but I think not. Little grass. In the afternoon moved N. 9 miles to the junction of Great Po[r]poise river which comes from the S. W. then N. by E. 4 miles to the junction of Wind river which comes from the W. turning around as I supose and running along Wind River Mountains which run N. W. Al- together they form a large and muddy river but fordable now which is after a heav^' rain. Aug. ist. Same camp find Mr. Bonneville camped a few miles above us. On farther inquiry I changed my opinion expressed above in regard to the Indians who stole the horses I think the3^ were 15 Snakes who left our camp at Green river a few da^^s be- fore we left that place. The case was this. Mr. Bridger sent 4 men to this river to look for us viz Mr. Smith, Thomson, Char- boneau a half breed and Evans. Two da^^s before it happened 15 Inds came to them (Snakes) and after smoking departed the second day after they were gone Thompson having been out hunt- ing [hobbled?] his horse to the others and thought he would sit down by them until it was time to v/aterthem and having been on guard much of the time previous fell asleep he was waked by a noise among the horses which he supposed to [be] his comrades come to water them raising his head and opening his eyes the first thing that presented itself to his sight was the muzzle, of a gun in the hands of an Indian it was immediately discharged 2o8 JOURNAL [265 and so near his head that the front piece of his cap alone saved his eyes from being put out by the powder the Ball entered the head outside of the eye and breaking the cheek bone passing downward and lodged behind the ear in the neck this stunned him and while insensible an arrow was shot into him on the top of the shoulder downward which entered about 6 inches, the Inds got 7 horses all there were. Charboneau pursued them on toot but wet his gun in crossing a little stream and only snapped twice. 2nd. Found the river unfordable and assended to west cross- ing Po[r]poise & Wind river 5 miles up and made thence 2c miles N. E. by N. to a little creek going to Wind now on our right. 3rd. 1 1 miles N. N. E. to the summit of the mountains which are called little Wind River Mts. and run E. & W. then N. 5 miles to the river. 4th. 2 miles N. along the river to a clump of sweet cotton wood. 5th. 7 miles N. by W. to the River which between makes a considerable bend to the eastward camped in good grass and some large cotton wood trees this morning past beautiful camps aft- ernoon N. by E. 12 miles 3 horses found this da3^ and yesterda}^ probably left by some party of Inds. who have passed this way saw the tracks of several more we think that when the Crows stole horses of the Snakes last winter they came this route and left their animals on account of giving out for want of food in the snow. Few Buffaloe and those running indicates Indians near. 6th. N 10 miles to the River again to noon found little grass dav cool afternoon 10 miles N. N. E. to the main river again. Since crossing the last Mts. we crossed a creek the second forenoon afternoon one 3'esterday 2 today 2 all small and I suppose sometimes dry 7th. 12 miles N. N. W and camped on Grey Bull River here I found a piece of about 5 lbs of Bituminous coal which burned freely It had in it some substance which I took to be Amber al- so an impression of wood It looked like and as good as Liverpool Coal. Its fracture was too perfect to have come far. 20 miles above and on the E. side comes in the River Travelled [?] in after- noon 6 miles N. N. W. and again struck Wind river. Shell river comes in 3 miles below Grey Bull on the E. side and from the Mts. in the direction E. by N. Grey Bull is from the S. W. and much the largest stream on this side since Wind river. For three days have found no Buffaloe and from the nature of the country think it is not often found in abundance along here ex- cept in the winter no antelope a few Elk and deer. Sth. W. N. W. 3 miles then 21 miles X. E. toward the right of two considerable Mts. where Wind river passes. We camped West of these hills on a river larger than Ckey Bull called Stink- ing River coming from the S. W. This days travel was made be- tween parrallel ridges of broken lime and sand rock some of it ap- [269 WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. zoq peared calcined and much like fine caked salt. This day picked up some shell they are very numerous also a round concretion which are found also on Cannon Ball River from which the name also a concretion of much the same substance but long pointed at one end with a core in the middle a hole at big end. During this space there was no water to our right there is a range of Mts. running N. W. about 9 miles distant and the other side of Wind River. 9th. ID miles N, striking a small stream of water This days travel and yesterday was over ground naked of vegetables in which the animals sank near six inches deep at every step per- fectly dry and resembling, but of different color, lime in the op- eration of slacking full of holes down which the waters at the wet season sink the rock is sand and lime stone. loth. N. 15 miles passing near but not exactly on the river and through rocky hills of no great height. The river here looks tranquil but flows between two perpendicular banks of stone of perhaps 5 to 800 feet high the chasm even at the top of no great width the rock of lime and sand this da3^s march saw Plaster of Paris found for first time this year ripe Service berrys. Kill- ed one mountain sheep which was all the meat killed this day for 48 men short commons, hard rains last night. nth. Went out hunting killed 2 Cows and 4 Bulls the camp made about a N. course at six miles crossed a small creek at 5 more another probably another branch of the same at 9 more a creek separate from the others but not large all these creeks have high perpendicular banks and are very bad to cross in the course of the day saw 4 Bears white. A fine gra.ss countr}'^ and a great many Buflaloe. 1 2th. 4 miles N. E. to Big Horn River this day went out to get Bull Hydes for boat got enough and emplo5'ed the rest of the day in making a Boat this da^- followed down a little stream. 13th. Remained at same camp made a Bull Boat day fine. 14th. Same camp da^^ fine. 15th. Made a start in our Bull Boat found it to answer the purpose well large enough runs well leaks a little made 3 miles N. E. stream rapid shoals at places 2 feet. Too much liquor to proceed therefore stopped. 1 6th. Made a start in our boat found travelling quite pleasant but requires much caution on account of some snaggs and bars. We frequently took one half of the river which dividing again gave too little water for our boat which draws i ^ feet it is quite too much the [boat] ought to have been flatter We grounded about 6 times this forenoon it is surprising how hard a thump these bull Boats will stand ours is made of three skins is 18 feet long and about 5 Yz wde sharp at both ends round bottom. Have seen on the banks of the river this forenoon 3 grisly bears and some Bulls in 2IO JOURNAL [267 the river and on the banks they stare and \vonder much the direction of this march was as near as I can judge N. bj^ E. we went from 5 to 1 1 as I think about 6 miles per hour the indirec- tion I suppose to be not more than J/(. All feel badly today from a severe bout of drinking last night. Afternoon made 4 hours at a good 6 mile rate grounded three times saw a few elk and much Beaver sign all daj^ there is here the best trapping that I have ever found on so large a river it is about 100 yards wide w^hen all together but is much cut into slews which makes the naviga- tion ver^^ difficult. The musquitoes have ano^^ed me much todaj^ the}^ affect me almost as bad as a rattle snake this afternoons course about N. N. W. at 6 miles from our noon camp passed a place where we supposed the Little Horn River came in from the S. E. at least there is a considerable river at that place but it is difficult to tell a returning slew from a river this afternoon a severe thunderstorm which compelled us to put ashore until it was over 17th. This day the river made nearty a N. course and we made about 7 )/2 hours at the rate of about 6 miles the river winding about % of the distance we started at 5 ock. at about 9 ock. saw several persons ahead on the bank of the river wdiich we at first supposed to be whites from the fort but soon found to be Crow Indians they informed us that the whole nation was be- hind we were anxious to avoid them but could not as the river afforded us no hiding place they showed us that they meant us to land very soon by stepping and swimming into the river seeing this we chose to land without further trouble in this way we were obliged to make the shore 6 times during the da}- we ar- rived at the Yellow Stone v.'hich was of clear water and did not mix with the waters of the Big Horn v^^hich was at this time dirty for some miles about 3 miles below the mouth of the Big Horn we found Fort Cass one of the Am. F. Co. at which post we trad- ed about 10 packs of Beaver and 150 to 200 pack robes goods are broug[t] up in boats of about 15 tons burthen 2 of which are now laying here and one of them preparing to descend in two da^'S we were treated with little or no ceremony by Mr. Tullock,who we found in charge which I attribut'^d to sickness on his part well knowing that a sick man is never disposed to be over civil to oth- ers we therefore pushed on next morning. Just as we arrived we saw 31 Indians with two American flags come to theotherside of the river they were Gros ventres du Baum the same we fought with last summer at the Trois Tetons thev came to make peace with the Crows they were treated civily at the Fort and before night followed the river up to the Crow village where I ex- pect their scalps will be taken for the Crows informed us that not long since a few Blkft. came and made peace v»-ith them shorth' aftel- three Crows went to the Blackfeet two of which they killed and they were determined to make no more peace with them. 268] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 211 1 8th. Started down the river made 3 hours with a hard wind about 4 miles an hour and put up to noon seeing some elk which we were in hopes to get to eat course about N. afternoon the river tended more Eastwardly and at last came to E. N. E. We made at the rate of 5 miles an hour for 3 y^ hours and camped to fish and hunt having no meat on hand there is along this river pretty bottoms and great quantities of sweet cotton wood which would be fine for winter camps. We saw some large bands of elk but our hunters were more conceited than good which I have gen- erally found to be the case with the hunters in this countrj^ thej^ are not willing that a new hand should even try, and are far from good shots themselves and commonly have miserable flint guns which snap continually and afford an excuse for not killing. The river sometimes cuts blufs which are mostly of sand stone but the river brings down granite and porphr5^ Fort Cass is sci- tuated on the E. bank of the Yellow stone river is about 130 feet square made of sapling cotton wood pickets with two bastions at the extreme corners and was erected in the fall of 1832. The Yellow stone comes from the S. W. till it meets the Big Horn then the tVvO go about N. until the}^ bend to the eastward. 19th. Made 5 )^ hours in a calm fine day I should think about 6 miles the hour the river going E.N.E. stopped early to try a band of Buffaloe that we see on the left of us, at first we were careful to see if they were really Buffaloe for j^esterday we were near ap- proaching a band of Indians which I suppose were the residue of the Blackfeet which I saw at the fort as they appeared coming down from that way. Nooned in a fine cool place under the shade of a large Cotton wood in a large green bottom the musquitoes take much from the pleasure of the trip which is otherwise fine but I believe for a party like ours rather dangerous in afternoon 2 y^ hours about 6 per H. River E. stopped on hearing the bellowing of Buffaloe on shore to get meat. Our hunters as usual having failed went myself and killed a cow got a good ducking from a shower and returned loaded with meat much fatigued. About 4 miles before we stopped we passed the mouth of Rose Bud a river coming from S. S. W. 20th. Started early and made this forenoon 6 hours at the rate of about 5 y-z miles. River about E. N. E. last night a smart rain which wet our clothes much caught just at dusk last night plenty of Blue Catfish and a small one which resembles an Ale wife soon after starting this morning found an immense herd of Buffaloe close to the river stopped and killed 2 fat cows and could have killed any number more but this was enough thej^ keep up a continued grunting night and day now that we have fairly got into them in the afternoon made 5 yz hours current about 6 miles and E. N. E. at 5 hours found bad rapids but at this low stage of the water it is said to be better passing on ac- count of the chanell being more visible we had a good joke on 212 JOURNAL [266 much as usual during the afternoon we had a good j oke on the old hands as they call them selves in distinction to those who have been a short time in the country two bald headed Eagles being perched on a tree on a point and ranged to the other side of the river our motion made them appear moving the old one cried out Les Savvages others of them said on horseback with white scarfs I looked long but not supposing that they meant the eagles I said I saw nothing but the eagles they soon found out their mistake and we had a good laugh at them and a pleasant one as all the Indians we meet here we expect to fight. This day and yesterday whenever the river makes _ perpendicular banks we saw veins of poor bituminous coal in 5 to 7 veins horizontal from 3 It. to 6 inches thick and ic to 15 feet above each other rock sandstone. 2ist. Made 5 hours river about E. N. E. passed the mouth of Powder River at 4 hours and half an hour below a bad and rocky rapid but without accident the coal still continues and thousands of BufFaloe day fine stopped to noon a little below the rapids in the afternoon made 5 hours current about 5 miles per hour in about E. N. E direction no rapids of consequence the blufs have ceased these blufs are a part of the Black hills as I am informed the Black Hills I am also informed make the Falls of Missouri at the Three Forks just on leaving the blufs the coal veins appeared thicker day fine. Buftaloe plenty. 22nd. Made at 5 y^ per hour 6 hours in forenoon using a sail which we found of little advantage and but a little course of the river N. N. E. and from the junction on the E. side of first Rose Bud then Tongue and then Powder Rivers it is of about the color of the Missouri altho the Yellow stone above is of clear water quite so above the junction of the Big Horn. Our boat get- ting quite rotten in afternoon made 5 hours same course 5 miles per hour river better not so [many] bars and country not mountainous the coal appears to have given out. 23rd. Made in forenoon 4 hours at the [rate] of 5 [miles] per hour river about N. E. Day fine and hot plenty of Elks in herds afternoon made 4 hours N. then 2 >'2 hours E. N. Iv cur- rent about 4 miles per hour saw but Httle game only 2 Elk river broad and shoal. 24th Made N. N. E. 2 hours with a heavy head wind about 4 miles per hour then the river turned Westwardly and when it enters the Missouri is running W. by S. this made one hour more when we found the Missouri which we assended N.W. about 5 miles to Fort Union where we arrived about noon and were met with all possible hospitality^ and politeness by Mr. McKensie the Am. V. Co. agent in this country. 27tb. This day at 14 past 10 oclock we took leave our hospi- table entertainers and on the experience of a few days with pre- possessions highly in their favor we found Mr. McKensie a most [270 WYI^TH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 213 polite host I was particularly pleased with a Mr. Hamilton and I am perhaps presumptions in saying that I felt able to appreciate his refined politeness he is a man of superior education and an Kng- lishman. I was here supplied with a peroque traded from the Blackfeet. A Mr. Patten shewed me a powder flask which he traded from the Blkft. I immediately knew it to be one of mine and on examination found No. 4 H.G.O.M. graven with a point on it. It was Mores flask who was killed in Little Jackson Hole last year on his return home after rendesvous. Fort Union is pleasantty scituated on the N. bank of the Missouri 6 miles above the junc- tion of Yellow stone there is no timber on a high bank above the fort I am told that there is not enough moisture here to raise vegeta- bles potatoes grass ect, Some corn is traded from the Inds. lower down the fort is of usual construction about 220 feet square and is better furnished inside than any British fort I have ever seen at Table we have flour Bread Bacon Cheese Butter they live w^ell I here saw a small sturgeon but they are very rare Cat fish are good and plenty they have cows and bulls milk etc. I saw lime burning also coal here they are beginning to distil spirits from corn traded from the Inds. below. This owing to some restric- tions on the introduction of the article into the countr}^ Above this we have met plumbs, grapes, cherrys, Currants, ash, elm. The river being already well laid down shall no longer give the course we left the fort and Avent 2 hours and stopped for Mr. Sublette who remained behind to finish some business he came accomp- anied b}^ the gentlemen of the fort after leaving us we made 4 hours then supped and made one hour more and found Mr. Wm. L. Sublette at anchor with a large Bull boat this gentleman we had expected to have found on our arrival at the Missouri he is come to trade furs in opposition to the Am. F. Co. he treated us with much politeness his brother preferred to remain and come to the states with him we are therefore left without any one who has decended the Missouri but I can go down stream. 28th. Pulled one hour put by from wind and to regulate then pulled 6 hours and stopped to supper the banks continually fall- ing in after supper we floated through the night j i hours Calm 29 While breakfast was preparing went out to hunt killed one deer and found a severe time in the thick swamp and mosqu- toes pulled 8 Yz hours and drifted 1 1 hours through the nio-ht which exposed me to much rain and wind from two thunder showers. I had much difficulty to keep the boat from bars and snaggs ran several times on to Bars all hands being asleep had to jump over board to get [her] off In the night elk keep up a con- tinual sque[a]ling it being now the commencement of their run- ning season. 30th Day pulled 9 hours Saw three white Bears this day and some Elk and a herd of Buffaloe night floated 8 ^A, hours and 214 JOURNAL [271 were stopped by a gale from the S. E. not thinking it expedient to pull with a head wind and in the dark. 3rst Blowing a gale. Made about 4 hours about the rate of 2 mils per hour and finding it too bad laid by at a considerable river coming from the S. entering by 2 mouths this I look to be the little Missouri as laid down in the maps. In this vicinit_v we find primitive peb[b]les and bo[u]lders much petryned wood other alCljuvial productions stopped all night on ace. of wind and rain which made our scituation uncomfortable in the extreme the weather had heretofore been ver}' warm average as much as 90° this day cold like an Eastwardly storm. ist. At seven the weather having abated a little m.ade a start. At 3 o'clock found some of vSublettes men cutting timber for a fort and learned from them that the upper Mandan was • 9 miles ahead we made it at 6 this da^^ made only about 3 per hour this village was about i }^ miles from the river , taking ray Indi- an and a man with me I went to it and was well received by Mr. Dorherty, Mr. Sublet[t]es clerk and the Inds. Stopped about one hour with him and then pulled 3 hours more passing 3 vil- lages of Mandans and not seeing the fort and being afraid of pass- ing it stopped for the night. 2nd. Pulled yz hour arrived first on a high point at the village then immediately round the point found the fort and Vv'as v\'ell re- ceived b3^ Mr Kipp. the Am. F. Co. agent for the Mandans Stopped 2 hours took breakfast the[y] presented me some dr}'- corn and some roasting ears. All these villages cultivate corn peas beans pumpkins ect. At )2 past 7 ock pulled a short distance when we had a good breeze and sailed until 5 ock then stopped to supper then floated from 6 until 12 ock then stopped owing to fog with head wind. 3rd. Floated 2 hours and stopped to Breakfast having found no game have lived much upon the stores we have taken from the forts above At the last place we were presented with some green corn which we are now roasting Makes us think of (31d Lang Sine. We have had for tour days rainy cloudy & fogg},- weather our bed clothes are wet and musty in consequence after Break- fast pulled 6 hours when I thought best to go on shore to cook I sent a man out to hunt in the meantime as soon as he assended the high bank he perceived horses on. the other side we after[- ward.s] counted 21 lodges and from the nunil)er of liorses I have no doubt there might have been from 75 to 100. I immedialeiy had the boat put into a little thicket and fortifyed as well as I could then v/ent to fishing and spent the afternoon caught but tvv'O large catfish as soon as it was dark we proceeded forward vvith a high wind and a cloud}' sky and no -\Ioon all went well luitil we were just opposite the village when we perceived lodges and fires 0!i our side also On seeing this I ste[e]red the boat to the middle of the river but unlucklv took ground on a sand bar 272] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 215 here we worked hard for some time to get ofi and had the Indi- ans seen or heard us herCe] we were in distance for shot from both sides and could have made little resistance but they did not and after some time we got off and glad we were. We proceedCed] in all 4 hours pulled, then stopped for the night these were prob- ably the Aricarey and would have scalped us. I feared much for my Nez Perce for we could not speak to anj^ Indian on the river and all would without explanation have made some fuss and per- haps have killed him. 4th. With almost a gale of wind from the W. pulled 6 hours and then stopped to eat having twice nearly upset in carrying sail and wet all our things after drying and eating started on still blowing fresh and pulled 3 hours then floated through the night 1 1 hours It was a beautiful still night the stillness interrupted only by the neighing of the Elk the continual low of the Buffa- loe which we came to soon after starting the hooting of large owls and the screeching of small ones and occasionally the near- er noise of a beaver gnawing a tree or splashing into the water and even the gong like sound of the swan it was really poetical but sleep at last laid in his claim and I gave the helm to a man. Oak is now plenty in the Bottoms and for a few da^-s past has been seen The upland along the river is here prettj' good plumbs ■We occasionally see and have since we first took water on the Big Horn frequent squalls of rain yesterday. 5th. Pulled 7 hours stopped to eat pulled one more came to a deserted village on the S. bank fired two guns to see if there was any one in it but had no answer pulled one hour more then floated 7 hours more then pulled 3 to Breakfast saw in morn- ing a band of Elk playing like children in the water failed of killing any of them owing to the impatience of one of the men who fired too soon pulled through a dreadful rain 7 hours and camped wet and cold rained all night strong east wind. 6. In the morning made 8 hours pulling seeing an Elk on the sand Bar stopped and killed him very aceptable as we have had nothing to eat since yesterday noon and saved his horns for ray best of friends Mr. F. Tudor of Boston pulled 2 hours more •and the night being dark and appearance of a storm did not run. .7th. East night about 11 cck was awakened b}'- the water mak- ing a breach over the boat got her off the shore but was obliged to make the shore again on account of some of the men who were so frightened that if I had not the^^ would have jumped overboard laid the rest of the night on a lee shore thundering in a loud strain and raining at no allowance spent a most uncomfortable night an[d] rose in the morning benumbed with cold and all hands as dead as loggs started after eating at S ock and pulled until 2 ock when we had a fine breeze which gradual[l]y increased to a gale before which we scudded at a good rate almost despair- ing of seeing Fort Pier[r]e which we began to think we had pass- 2i6 JOURNAL [273 ed at about sundown we saw people on the hills which we sup- posed to be Inds. therefore kept on thej^ fired but we did not choose to hear about an hour after sundown we smelt the flavor of coal and landed and found people who had just burned a kiln who informed us that the fort was 3 rails ahead we though [t] to go to sleep at the fort but soon found that night and a gale of wind was a poor time for travelling and also that 3 miles w^as in fact 3 leagues after being near filled by the surf and running afoul of several sand bars and getting overboard to push off we concluded to stop for the night which we did cold and tired and wet we spent the night as we best could one comfort plenty of elk meat stopped at 10 ock. 8. Made by sailing 3 miles and found Fort Pier[r]e pleasantly scituated on the right bank rather low but withall romantic were received with all hospitality imaginable by Mr. Laidlowwho is in charge of the Am. F. Co. post here was much pleased by the order and regularity apparent about the place we stopped here for the da^' and visited Mr. and Mrs. Sublette who is scitua- ted about one mile below we here ?aw melons of two kinds corn pork cows horses and stacks of hay. 9th. Remained at the fort until about i ock. when we made by pulling 2 hours an Island 9 miles below the fort on which the Co. have about 15 acres of ground under cultivation here I re- mained all this day eating and drinking of the good things afford- ed by the earth and the cellars of the Co. Found cucumbers water & musk mellons beets carrots potatoes onions corn and a good cabin and the Company of Mr. I^aidlow and Doct. loth. At 8 ock. began pulling the water has within two days risen about 2 feet in consequence of the rains which so an[n]o3-ed me above and the surface of the water is covered with all manner of drift rubbish and the w^ater as muddy as possible. Wind ahead all day but current much improved stopped at 6 ock at the com- mencement of the great Bend and remained all night. iith. Commenced pulling at V2 past 6 after having sent a hunter across the foot of the Bend and after 6 hours got past the Bend and found our hunters who had hid themselves in the brush being alarmed by seeing Inds. whom w^e also saw and gave some amunition to took them in and in two hours more came to the agency for the Sioux & Poncas Mr. Bean agent but not at the post we found it a miserable concern only three or four men but poorly fed and buildings out of order though new and shabbily built at best we were hospitably received by the young man in charge. 12. Pulled against a severe head wind 9 hours in hopes of finding White River but camped without seeing it got plenty of good plumbs which were an object to stop for as we are about out of food and the vicinitv almost destitute of game. [274 WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 217 13th Pulled against a severe wind 3 Yz hours finding we did not make much headway laid b}^ for the day. 14th. Blowing still fresh ahead we started and made 15 hours night and day continuing until 12 ock at night it was dark and we were nearly upset by a snag but our fears of starvation impel- led us to haste did not see an animal all day during the latter part of the night it rained in torrents and wet all our things and persons. 15th. Commenced pulling at 7 ock. Still blowing fresh ahead and raining a little about 3 ock cleared off and stopped to cook during meal time killed a fawn which was very good luck aft- er supper pulled 5 hours more and found a keel boat of the Am. F. Co. alongside of which we stopped for the night in the morn- ing of 1 6th. Put ahead wdth a fine wind not having been asked on board of her and immediately passed the Ponca village but I be- lieve not in its usual place saw and delivered a message to Mr. Sublettes agt. here and gave the Chief some tobacco. Made with a wind which as usual soon died aw^ay and pulling 13 hours when we ran on a sand bar and was unable in the dark to extricate her and slept all night on it the musquitoes almost murder us rain- ed most of the night. 17. Started at 5 ock. Pulled this day to hours rained some in the course of the day saw Powquet the first since leaving the states also mulberry trees Bass wood. i8th. Started earl}^ after a rainy night and pulled 10 hours saw wild Turkeys this evening but killed none nearly out of all kinds of provisions saw this da^' a herd of Elk tryed hard to get some but failed 19th. Made with a strong and fine wind 12 hours and camped without meat supped on a little flour boiled in water Saw dur- ing the day 3 deer looked with folly at them and fired two shots and they ran off. 20th. Stopped until ^ past 6 to hunt caught one goose which we eat for breakfast afterward put ashore the hunters for game the^' were fortunate enough to kill a fat doe on which we feast- ed right merryh^ and having lost so much time we concluded to run until the moon went down altho we were before informed that it was not safe a few hours we got along well enough but at last went over a snagg vvdth limbs above which taking our mast and the boat swinging broadside she was taking in water at a joll3^ rate and in a little she would have gone with the suck un- der the rock I immediately had the mast cut a wa)^ just in time to save her escaped from this I determined to try more we ran a little and were driven head foremost on a large tree Ijdng across the river We stopped about midway and lay swinging like a pendulum with much danger and difficulty we extricated her not being 5^et discouraged we ran on but soon were driven into a 2tS journal [275 large driit we narrowly escaped being carried under and halffuU of water and oar oar broke we made the shore as soon as possible resolved to run no more nights, after making 10 )4 hours. 2 1 St. Made 9 hours with a head wind and camped at the old post of Council Bluffs it is now grown up with high weeds a memento of much money spent to little purpose it is a beautiful soituation the magazine and three or four chimneys only remain . 22nd. After 5 hours in a dead current we arrived at a trading post of the Am. F. Co. Mr. Josh. Pilcher agent by whom we were entertained with the utmost hospitality I had met Mr, P. at St. Louis on my way out on this account I had much pleasure in stopping we found a good assortment of vegetables and a sup- ply of such things as we wanted. Dined with him and made three hours more and stopped to hunt Killed a fat deer and camped for the night. 23rd. Made 2 hours pulling and passed an agency % mile farther a trading post of Mess. Dripps & Fonter;ellc. Made in all 13 hours and camped during the day killed one deer from the Boat from Council Bluffs to this have found the HicCkJory Shagbark Sicamore and Coffee Bean trees not seen above also Night Shade Brier. Ducks Ge[e]se and Pelicans have been very numerous but shy for about 8 days stopped at the above trading post found only an old negro at home the rest out cutting wood. 24th. Made this day 10 % hours Killed one goose saw plent}^ of deer 25th. Made 11 hours Killed one Turkey from the boat saw this day the first Pawpau fruit and trees wounded one deer from boat and stopped to search for him but without success 26th. Made 1 1 hours at 8 hours came to a trading house of the Am-. F. Co. called Pvubideau Fort at the Black Snake hills and on the N. bank of the river on a little rise of ground in the rear of a beautiful bottom. Today saw the Black Locust for the first tim.e the lands are here quite fine and the hills as far back as we can see clothed with timber and verdure of the most luxuri- ant appearance the country is one of the most pleasant I have ever seen 27th. After 7 hours pulling arrived at the Cantonment I^eaven- worth on the route we saw several Indian canoes with Squaws children ect. I had no letters of introduction at the fort and therefore could not expect any great extension o( the laws of hospitality but was received with all the politeness that [could be] expected was offered all the stores vv-hich I might require by Leiut. Richardson the officer of tlie day. My boy Baptiste and the Indian wer[e] vacinated by Doct. Fellows. It was amusing to observe the actions of Baptiste and the Indian when I went from the boat towards the Barracks the Boy followed me until I was hailed by the sentry at view of one so strangely attired and with a knife on the end of his gun he broke like a quarter Nag[?] 276] WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 219 crying Pegoui and the Indian was onh' prevent.ed from taking- the run also by being assured that he would not be harmed. I took the two to Doct Fellows quarters to be vaccinated the Docts wife and another lady happened to be present they were really beautiful women but the eyes of the two were riveted on the White Squaws Baptiste who speaks a little English told the oth- er Boys when he returned to the boat that he had seen a white squaw white as snow and so pretty. 28th. Made about 45 miles to lyibert}' where I found Mr. E. M. Samuel an old acquaintance who received me with all hospitali- t3^ supplyed me w[it]h money and all that I wanted. 29th. Rained all day did not start 30. Went to the landing after breakfast a boat arrived going to the Garrison and joined her as I shall arrive at St Louisas soon by this means as any other and more comfortabty Shall close memorandum here with Boat I after[ward] return- ed to Eeavenworth and was treated with great politeness by the officers of the garrison especially a Capt. Nichols who invited me to dinner. Memo of distances on. the Columbia according to the estimates of the English Traders. From Boat encampment to Colville 309 miles " Colville to Oakenagen 150 " " Oakenagen to Walla Walla 207 " ' ' Walla Walla to Vancouver 203 " " Vancouver to Cape Disappointment 80 " 949 [with pencil] From Ermatinger. 211'! JOtlKNM,. [Willi iM-iK-il. ()ii Ili<- sl-li '^1 ■'^^•ly liHving crosscfl the K;iii/.:is al llu- a^i^ency witliout accident and in one Half of a ' lelt Kan/.as River 9th. Made al)out 20 miles aufl camjx'd on a small river this lettc-s for nooning and marched until dark and cam]jed the horses having had noth- ing to cat all day did not tie them u]) at i. ock at night was awakened by a furiou« running ik snorting of the animals who all 1)roke from their hobbles aud left camj) running in their ("ourst: over any thing opposed to them sjjcnt the- night in looking them up and found all but two about sun one Iioui high three Otoes came to us Vv-ho I su])pose occasioned tiie fright and got the two horses. f^. Started and ti'avelled 7 liours and ''anip'-d on a, fork of Ihc Blue and found the Long, to be 96'-' 7'. 14th. Made W. S. W. 2f miles and struek the uiain lilue 222 JOURNAL [279 15th. Made about \V. 9 miles and found our Lat. to be 4c"' 17' then made 12 mils W. by N. over a very level prairie and again struck the main Blue and camped i6th. Made 10 miles about W. by N. to Dinner Latt. 40*^ 23' and 12 more to the Pawnee trail to the head of the Ar- kanzas and found that a verj' large party had passed it about 10 days before and a smaller one this morning. 17th. Made 3 miles up the stream crossing a very small run course W. by N. then struck out N. W. 3 miles and crossed a little run the same as passed in the morning then same course 6 mils and took an observation for Latt and found it to be 40^' 22' then 5 mils more same course and got sight of the Platte then W. X. W. 5 mils to the river and camped i8th. Raining in morning caught some Cat fish found fresh track of Indians a small party 19th. Rained hard all day moved camp 15 miles to a small grove of timber on the main land found our horses ver}^ skittish during the night. 20th. In the morning had just raised camp when we discover- ed two Indians who were shy of coming to us but after a while suffered us to approach them they said they were Pawnieesbutas we did not not know the Pawnees this might be so or not per- haps Ricarees afterward saw several more on the blufs who did not come to us at noon found our I^at. 43° i' after traveling 13 miles W. N. [?] in the afternoon traveled 13 miles W. and found our Long, to be 98'-^ 30' this night doubled guard. 2ist. Moved camp from the pickett and 12 miles W. to break- fast fine clear weather old Buffaloe sign and antelope after dinner started and soon saw a band of elk one loose horse took fright at them and ran back on our trail there being no person mounted on a swift horse in camp I followed myself after going to a little creek where we nooned they struck out S. 15 miles to the heads of some little streams with timber probabh' the Blue where I overtook three of them my horse having failed I lost 2 fine horses. After riding about 12 miles found the Platte at our nights camp and followed it to the camp making in all a ride of about 50 miles arrived about midtnght camp moved on 1 1 miles. 22nd. Moved about N. 10 miles Lat. 40'' 33' afternoon 10 miles W. and camped after a little 3 Pawnee Scouts came to us and slept with us in the morning 12 more came and wished to persuade me to go to their camp i 14 daN-s travel X. over the riv- er which they forded here they stole some small things from us 23rd. Moved from the pickett and 15 miles W. aljout to I^att. just before nooning passed a little creek then W'est ti miles and camped. 2So] WYETH'S SECOND EXPEDITION. 223 24th. 20 miles W- to the crossingof the South fork of the Platte about 8 miles above the forks found lyatt. to be 40 '' 41' 25th. Crossed without difficult}' and made up the X. side of the South Fork about 4 miles W. then struck N. W. about i mile to the North fork which is here the largest then miade about W. b}^ N. about 15 miles and near to some cut blufs which come close to the river 26th. W. by N.I 2 mils passing another place where the blufs cut the river and here fo-jad much cedar on them and camped on the river in a wide bottom found no Buffaloe today killed one ante- lope. Afternoon 10 miles W. N. W. at nighi found the variation of the compass i" 30' west at midnight our horses took fright but being strongly picketed and hobbled but few got out of camp. 26th. I date this the 26th having over noted one dav hereto- fore in afternoon 12 miles W. N. W. passing some steep cut blufs which cut the river afternoon made 12 mils and camped still no buffaloe I^att. 40° 22' at night. 27th. Made this da}' 20 mils during a severe gale from the N. N. W. the sand cut like a knife and it was altogether a most disagreeable day this day saw a little timber on some hills to the south of the river about 5 miles distant also 2 bands of wild horses killed one Bull so poor as to [be] uneatable. 2Sth. Killed Buffaloe plenty today Came in sight of the chimne}' about noon made 22 mils wind still high N. N. W. One of our outriders saw six Indians mounted today. 29th. No[o]ned at the Chimney Lat. 41'-' 51' After travel- ling this forenoon 11 miles afternoon 10 mils 30th. Passed through between two high blufs through a pret- ty good pass and avoided going between one of them and the river where there are bad -ravines. Made this day 22 miles to Horse creek. 31st Made after crossing Horse creek at starting about 20 miles. June 1st. Made 15 miles to Laramies fork just before coming to which we made a cut off of about 3 miles over and about 5 luiles by the river forded this fork with ease and niade S miles up the Platte in afternoon. At the crossing we found 13 of Sub- lettes men camped for the purpose of building a fort he having gone ahead with his best animals and the residue of his goods he left about 14 loads 2nd. Made along the river 5 miles then struck out into the hills about W. N. W. and made 12 miles to a little creek in the afternoon made 13 miles to prett}^ large creek and camped tor the night the whole course this day about W. N. W. Left at Noon camp a bull and cow whose feet had worn out. 3rd. Made 15 miles andnooned on the river this course N. \V. bv N. and cut ox^er the hills about ^ the wav the river tak- 224 JOURNAL [281 ing a bend quite to the X. and passing through bad rocks. After- noon made 6 miles cutting two very bad bhifs but still following the river and camped on it 4th. P'orded the river and made W. X. W. 17 miles along the river and camped on it Sublette one day ahead. 5th. Made along the river 24 miles along the River 6th. Made along the river 24 miles W by X. 7th. Made 12 miles along the river to the red Butes so called and is the place at which the river turns S. \V. and we leave to strike for Sweet Water Sublette 2 days ahead weather chilly and windy. Poor grass for several days. Sth. This morning I had intended to have turned out the horses at 2 ock. and guarded them but during the night the horses appeared uneasy and appeared to think there were Indians about which induced me to keep them up until sunrise when we started W. S. W. from the Red Butes and made iS miles to the high ridge of land and then one point more to the South and 12 miles more to a small creek with poor grass Several of the horses nearh' done up for want of grass and from fatigue this day kill- ed two grisly bears and many Buffaloe a little shower toward night 9th. Made S. \\\ 10 miles and made Rock Independence on which W. L. Sublette had noted that he had arrived on the 6th but I think he could not have done so before the 7th. I noted mv name then made S. W. along the creek 4 ^2 miles to a place where the creek puts through cut rocks each side perpendicular and about 60 feet high the trail goes through another place on a level and about 100 feet South of the river the rock interven- ing then made 6 miles W. S. W. between mountains but on a level and along the creek. loth. General courses W. vS. W. and along Sweet Water high granite hills on each side made 23 miles nth. W. 10 mils then X. W. 9 mils to camp on .Sweet Water 12th. S. W. forenoon a cut off of 10 miles to Sweet Water afternoon vS. \\'. 9 miles along Sweet Water. Long, i to^' 30.'. 13th 3 miles along Sweetwater S. W. then took up a ravine to the \V. X. W. about i mile then W. by S. 9 miles to a creek of Sweet Water run[n]ing into it abotit 8 mile=; off and S. E. then W. by S. 7 miles to another creek of Sweet Water running about vS. E. and emtying into it at abotit 10 miles vSweet Water appears to run in cut rocks 15th. Made dtie West 5 mils and crossed a small creek of Sweet Water which comes from a point of granite rocks about 2 miles from which we passed then W. 7 mils to a spring of good cold water and good gross. Wind river mountains now bear X. 282] WYETH'S SECOND EXPEDITION. 225 N. W. and aLre] covered with snow about 20 mils distant, Latt, 42 '^ 44' Afternoon made W. 6 miles to Sweet Water creek main body going about S. E. and coming out of cut rocks then W. by S. 16 miles over broken ground to one fork of Sandy run- ning S. by E. here horses wer[e] tired Buffaloe plent^^ 15th. W. N. W. 9 miles to Big Sandy where we found Buf- faloe plenty My hunters not yet come in been out 4 days fear- ful the}- have been scalped. 1 6th. Made down the Sandy S. W. by W. 15 miles then 4 S. E. by E and camped on this stream so far the grass is miserable and the horses are starving and also at last nights camp they eat something that has made many of them sick, the same thing happened two year since on the next creek west. 17th. S. S. W. 10 miles down Sandy which makes here a bend to the right afternoon S. 9 miles passing at three miles the mouth of little Sand}' and camped without an}' grass 1 8th. 12 miles in the forenoon S. S. W. making small cut off afternoon W. S. W. 7 miles camped in good grass. 19th. About S. b}' W. 8 miles and camped i mile above the mouth of Sandy on Green river or Seckkedee on the night of the 17th I left camp to hunt Fitzpatric and slept on the prairie in morning struck Green river and went down to the forks and find- ing nothing went up again and found rendesvous about 12 miles up and much to my astonishment the goods which I had contract- ed to bring up to the Rocky Mountain fur Co. were refused by those honorable gentlemen. Latt. 41'^ 30'. 20th. Made W. S. W. 8 miles then S. by E. 15 miles to Hams Fork running here S. E. and a small stream. 2 1 . vSame camp. 22d. Same camp 27th. Moved up the river N. W. 10 miles grass here pretty good but little timber and none but willows for the last 6 miles. To 3rd. Jul}-. Same camp then up Hams Fork 10 miles N. W. moved up the fork about W. b}- S. 12 miles too many Indians with us lor comfort or safety they let their horses among ours so that it is impossible to guard an}' of them. 4th. Moved up the creek about i mile then leaving it made \V. by N. over a divide and by a pass which occurs in the lowest part of a high range of hills 7 miles then W. 13 miles down a ravine which had a little water in it to its junction with another small run and the two are called Muddy here we celebrated the 4th I gave the men too much alcohol for peace took a pretty hearty spree myself. At the camp we found Mr. Cerry and Mr. Walker who were returning to St. Louis with the furs collected by Mr. Bonnevilles company about 10 pack and mengoingdown to whom there is due io,ooo5{5 5th. Made down Muddy 5 miles W. then N. W. cutting a divide into a small ravine which has a little water in it 8 miles 226 JOURNAL [283 then leaving the ravine cutting moderately high land to Bear riv- er 4 miles. Then down Bear river N. by W. 4 miles to camp 6th. Made down the river N. N. W. 5 miles to Smiths Fork which is a short stream from the N. E. by N. and nearty as large as Bear river then same course 3 miles more then N. W. 5 miles here comes in Kamas creek from the N. then W. X. W. 3 and crossed Bear river three more and recrossed then cut over some high hills same course 8 miles more and struck the river again then down the river same cour.se i mile to camp nothing to eat due south of this camp about 5 miles is the little lake .so called which is about 20 miles long. 7th. Made 3 miles N. N. W. and passed a little creek the same course 6 miles along the river, then 3 miles N. W. to camp all day fine grass. During this day a multitude of fine springs coming into the river, today killed one bull. 8th. T^Iade N. W. 10 miles then 10 miles W. N. V\\toa place v;here there is soda spring or I may say 50 of them. These springs throw out lime which deposits and forms little hillocks ot a yel- lowish colored stone there is also here a warm spring wh.ich throws water with a jet which is like Bilge water in taste there is also here peet beds which sometimes take fire and leave behind a deep light ashes in which animals mire Killed one Bull today but so poor as to be hardly eatable having in the course of the day lost a horse will remain here to hunt him up 9th. Same camp assended a mountain and from it could see that Bear river took a short turn round sheep rock about 2 miles below the spouting steam and goes south as far as I could see there are in this place many hundreds of mounds of yellowish stone with a crater on top formed by the deposits of the impreg- nated waters of this place. Killed one Buffaloe. loth. Moved X. by \V 3 mils cutting a range of hills then X. X. W. 17 miles to Biackfoot 0:1 which I found Bonrnjevill? again and plenty of Buffaloe and killed 3 Grisly Bears during the day passed many small funnel shaped holes in the lava hav- ing the appearance of small craters. nth. Made W. 6 miles cutting a range of hills then following in a valle}' form.ed b>' these hills and another range Made \\\ X. W. 10 miles to a little brook running X. b}' W. to camp Buf- faloe today saw one Biackfoot on foot in the hills who ran like a good fellow. 1 2th. ]\Iade \V. 3 miles and came upon a small creek which was said to be Portneuf it may po.ssibly be the same water as that w-e camped on last night but running S. by E crossed this and a high range of hills and struck a stream v,-hich is said to be Ross creek this rtins about W. after g miles more camped saw but few B'.iffaloe today. 13th. Xo Buffaloe savr elk on Snake River which we struck 284] WYETHVS SECOND EXPEDITION. 227 after 6 miles W. by N. in some small slew saw a great quanti- ty of fine trout about 2 lbs. weight 14th. Went downi the river about 3 miles and found a location for a fort and succeeded and killed a Buffaloe near the spot 15. Commenced building the fort and sent out 12 men to hunt to be gone 12 days and continued at w-ork on the fort a few days and fell short of provisions and was obliged to knock off in order to obtain food sent out some men tor Buffaloe the^^ returned in two days with plenty. The 12 returned the 28th da3^ at night. On the 26th a Frenchman named Kanseau was killed horse racing and the 27th was buried near the fort he belonged to Mr. Mc- Kays camp atid his comrades erected a decent tomb for him service for him was performed by the Canadians in the Catholic form by Mr. Lee in the Protestant form and by the Indians in their form as he had Indian family, he at least was Vv'ell buried. 30 Mr. McKay left us and Mr Lee and Capt. Stewart with Inm 6th. Having done as much as was requisite for safety to the Fort and drank a bale of liquor and named it Fort Hall in honor of the oldest partner of our coticern we left it and with it Mr. Evans in charge of 1 1 men and 14 horses and mules and three co\\s we went down the river S.\Y.4 miles and found a ford crossed and made N. W. 7 miles to the liead of a spring and camped in all 29 strong. Fort Hall is in Latt. 43'' 14' Long. 113'' 35' 7th. Started at day light and traveled 10 hours as fast as pos- sible N. W. by W. 30 miles to the Bute, being the most south- wardly one and from it the other two Butes bear N. N. E. the farther about 20 miles off the other midway the Three Tetons about 100 miles off and bearing N. E. the day was hot and we suffered some for water and found but a small suppty on the N. side of the Bute a miserable chance for our horses and not a good one for ourselves 8th. Started it sunrise and made IS. W. 10 miles to Godins river then crossed it and made in the same direction 12 up the riv- er and camped in fine grass where we struck the river there is no grass nor until w^e camped above lam told it is fine found no appearance of buffaloe 9th. Made due W. 16 miles striking for the N. side of it a pretty high hill and struck up the mountains close on the N. side of it then wound into the mountains in a S. W. course finding water several times and cutting a divide struck a small thread of water at 5 mils this we followed 3 miles N. W. and struck a pretty large creek which we followed N. N. E. i mile and camped just at starting killed a Bull and separated from Abbot and a small part}' of trappers accompanied by Antoine Godin whom I sent out for Beaver. loth. Made 7 mils down the creek N. N. E. to Godins river the same we left day before yesterday then N. \V. 3 miles then 238 JOURNAL [285 West 14 miles today saw a large fire in the mountains on our left suppose them to be Diggers keeping for safety in the hills the Blackfeet trouble them even here saw one band of Buifoloe cows today killed one calf the party I parted from viz Antoine and Abbot are before us on this river. nth. Made W. 9 miles then 18 .S W the angle of the two courses occurs at what is called the vSpring prairie which is about 10 miles over in the center of which there are three tolerable Butes these Butes when you approach from the East look like three but when from the West show but as two this day killed an old Bull very strong 1 2th Moved 3 miles up the creek S. W. at which place the creek divide'^ into about equal parts the one going south I took by the advice of one who said he had passed before followed this up one mile and a branch going E. 3 farther another E. 4 miles farther looked so bad camped took a horse to explore the route }2 mile above camp the stream branches the right at small distance heads in an amphitheater of inaccessible mountains followed the left 4 miles S. by E. and this also heads in an amphi- theater. We drove 2 Bulls before us which we killed they being unable to pass. I climbed up the clefts an[d] in passing over the snow had liked to have been killed in the following manner pas- sing over some snow and on which the water was running and be- ing afraid of caving in I missed my foothold in a slippery place and went gradually sliding down to a precipice but succeeded at last in averting mA' progress to destrtiction by catching the only stone which projected above the icy snow I however reached the summit and looked into another defile running E. like the one I came up. Got to the bottom again and found one of our two mules gone and being in want of meat packed the other with part of one of the Bulls and walked barefoot to camp during the night through an infernal rough rocky prickly Bruisy swampy woody hole. 13th. Moved down creek back to the commencement of the South Fork then took the other about S. W. by W. at two miles up a creek from the N. forming about half of the stream then three miles farther where the rest divides into two parts very small passed the mountain in a south course between these last forks up a gentle fine trail and not more than i mile to the top then down b}' a very steep bad trail. South still along a branch of Malad 5 miles to tolerable grass and camped this last part of the route about the worst road that I ever passed. i4.th. After shoeing some horses that were lamed yesterday started and made 9 miles S. vS. W. at 2 of which got a small creek from the N. E. at the end of the 9 miles got a fork of about equal size to the one I came down from the S. W. then made S. E. by S. 10 miles and cam]:)ed got a creek from the N. 286] WYETH'S SECOND EXPEDITION. 229 E- at 2 miles of it and at 7 one from the S. W. Saw no game today the dusky grouse plenty for three days past Horses much knocked up with ^ore feet. 15th. After crossing the stream passed up a ravine S. W. to its head then crossed some low grassy hills and at 12 miles cross- ed a small creek going S. E- this creek forks at this place then at two miles in all 14 miles S. W. crossed another which we follow- ed two miles S. S. E. then left it on our left and cut a prett}^ high hill 4 miles S. S. W. and came down to the plain of Snake River then 3 miles W. to a creek with a fine bottom but no water except what remains in little pools, but excellent grass here found two lodges of Snake Indians. 1 6th. Made 28 miles W. following the main trail which is good perfectly level and distinct except in one place where it crosses several small branches which in the spring I presume are miry which occasions the traveller to go in no particular place during this days march I observed some low hills on the South side of us which gradually approach and at this camp are about 8 miles distant between us and them a little riv^er appears to run to the W. which I am in hopes is Reeds other wnse called Big Woody. Todaj^ the travelling was fine and mau}^ little streams of water cross the trail at this camp which is on a very small thread there commence small irregularities just enough to note the place. 17th. Made 20 miles due West over a country with easy Hills good and distinct trail and often water in very little streams. Country mostly burnt out b_v the Indians who have passed here lately going up to Buffaloe. Killed some dusky grouse and dug some kamas which assisted our living a little also found some choke cherries and saw one Indian at a distance on Horse back who fled. 18th. Made over a hilly country 12 miles W. until we passed a high stony hill then bending N. W. made 10 miles more over a stony Hilly but distinct trail with not much water saw a track of a Bull made this morning altho there is verj'- little old signs in this section. Camp&cl on a uearh- dry creek running W. today lost 2 Horses. 19th. Left the little run on which we camped last night going here N. N. W. on our right and put out as near as I could judge \V, 10 miles the first three over a dix'ide of high steep hills then taking a little ran followed it out of the worst hills along this run were many little Indian camps we then left it and went W. N, W. 15 miles and struck Woody River in cut rocks at about 7 miles of this last course struck the run on which we camped last night at Woody we saw plent}'' of Salmon but had no means of catching any of them this day found a colt in the Rush probably left by the Indians on which I mean to Breakfast tomor- row morning being short of provant. 230 JOURNAL [287 20th. Followed the river down W. by N. 22 miles in the course of the day traded of some Inds. enough salmon for a Lunch and consumed the remaining provisions. 2ist. No Breakfast. Feel very much purified [?] in the flesh. 12 miles down the creek W. at noon found Indians of whom we traded enough Salmon with a dead one we picked up in the brook and a few birds for a dinner afterwards traded 2 Bal[e]s Salmon of the Inds. 22nd. Made 5 miles W. then the trail cut a point of higher ground of about 2 miles and again struck the river and crossed it made on the other side 7 miles W. in all this day 15 miles \V. 23rd. Made West 9 miles and found a small village of Snakes of whom we could only trade a very few salmon then 5 more in all 14 miles along the Big Wood W. and arrived at Snake Riv- er which we forded by wetting our packs a little here we found a few lodges of very impudent Pawnacks of whom we traded a half Bale of Salmon afterward 4 miles N. along the W. side of Snake River and camped near a few lodges of Inds. 24th. 6 miles X. then made a cut off N. N. W. 4 miles to R. Malheur where we found but three or four Indians and consequ- ently got but little Salmon and consequently may starve a little between this and Walla Walla afternoon 7 miles N. passing not far from the River. I had forgot to nof- that on Big Wood Riv- er the Indians attempted to steal some of our horses but the horse guards discovered them and they failed. Scorpions arc here quite common two nights since I was just about laying down when on my Blkt I saw something move I folded it in the Blkt. and on carrying it to the fire found it to be a very good sized scorpion. This day at noon parted from Richardson and 8 men to go up Malheur and other creeks to trap there is something melancholy in carting with men with whom one has travelled so far in this uncertain country. Our party is now 17 boys Indians literati and all. 25th. This days march was in many different courses but I average them at 23 miles N. W. and camped just before where the trail finally leaves the Snake river and at the same camp where I overtook two 3'ears since my men who without orders were leav- ing ihe country while I was up Malheur trapping. Traded this day about 70 salmon which makes a tolerable supply of provisions for the cut to Walla Walla. 26th. Made about 20 miles in about a N. \\\ direction up Brule Last night lost two Horses which I think were stolen and today two more gave out. I now think of leaving two men be- hind to bring up some of the worst animals otherwise 1 fear I shall loose many of them. 27th. After leaving Sunsbury and Briggs to bring up the worn out horses I left and making a cut off to the right going up a ravine across another and down a tliird came again tipon Brule, 288] WYETH'S vSECOND EXPEDITION. 231 at the open Prairie and camped for noon at the upper end of it on a little run and cashed 24 bars lead and 18 Traps general course N. W, 14 miles afternoon 9 miles N. W. W. following the little creek up and camped on a little prairie .near the headof itof about 20 acres here there is two trails one N. W. the other N. the N. W. one I shall try. 28th. Here taking the left hand trail we followed it 12 miles N. \V. when it disappeared I then took a N. course and at 8 miles came on Powder River which we followed down about 5 miles and camped this afternoon I shall go out to see where the trail crosses the river. This day killed an antelope and a Fawn and saw fresh Elk Track. 29th. Turned up the creek again and after arriving at where we first struck the river made 6 miles W. by N. then into cut rocks then W. N. W. 4 miles more and Nooned on a little water in a ravine during the forenoon two men whom I had left behind with the poor animals brough[t] up all but two also during the forenoon tv^'O men got lost and our hunter got lost yesterday all missing tonight. Afternoon made 8 miles N. W. and camped in cut rocks on the main river at a place apparently not frequented either by Indians or whites but there are Salmon here but we have no means of catching any without waiting too long. I think by the looks there are Beaver here but will ascertain in the morn- ing in order that my trip here may not be entireh' lost. 30th. Made 8 mile-^ up the creek through Cut Rocks during which time killed one Salmon and Two Otter so much provisions and Nooned on the Walla Walla trail West Fork the East being the one I descended on my first Tour afternoon made N. N. W. on the Trail. Here plain and good 15 miles at 5 of which crossed another Fork of Powder River but dry at 5 more a little water an.d at camp a little and but a little countr}^ rolling and soil good. At our camp two lodges of Kiuses 31st. Made 15 miles N. N. W. good soil and not ver^- hilly and nooned at the Grand Ronde where I found some Kiuse Indi- ans, Capt Bonneville and two of Mckays men and learned that Capt. vStewart and Mr. Lee passed two days before. iVfternoon took the Walla Walla Trail N. N. W. 12 miles and camped at a very small Prairie with a little stream going N. W. Killed 5 Hens toda^'. On allovvance still. I Sept. After about 5 miles de[s]cended a very bad mountain and followed a dry creek then assended another bad mountain and nooned with out water at S miles of very bad going after- noon making along a ridge of mountain 16 miles arrived at the Ottilla[?] the trail plain the ground stony about N. W. course but indirect so far from the Three Butes every day has been thick smoke like fog enveloping the whole country last night we camped at 10 ock having found no water and the whole coun- 232 JOl'RXAL [2cS9 try burnt as black as my Hat aifording as poor a prospect for a poor sett of Horses as need be. 2nd. Left camp behind and proceed across the Utalla River to the N. and up a mountain then took a slight ravine going N. W. and crossing several trails until the ravine leads to a dry willowed creek going N. E with a little water in puddles then N. W. up a ravine to the height of land which is a gentle slope then leaving the trail and going a few Hundred yards to the left followed a Dry ravine to the Walla Walla River 22 miles in all N. W. then dowui the Walla Walla W. by N. 10 miles to Fort Walla Walla where I found Mr. Pambrum who did the honors of the Fort in his usual handsome stile also found Caot. Stewart and Mess Lees who arrived two days sitice. Mr. Mckay for some reason remain- ed in the mountains. 3rd. Remained at Walla Walla this da^' and made arrange- ments for going down at night Capt Thing and the residue of the party came up. 4th. In morning left Walla Walla in a boat hired by Capt. Stewart after proceeding 4 miles obliged to come to land to tight- en the canoe. 5 6 7th. Down the river and landed to Hire canoes at the Dalles for the party still behind. 8th. Waiting at the Dalles for party. 9th. Waiting at same place partv arrived at night with news that they drowned one Horse and the Jackass in crossing the River I valued him more than 10 horses as a breeder. loth At noon having with Difficulty hired three canoes start- ed down the river with three Indians on board. Wind high and soon increased to a gale swamped one of the canoes which fright- ed the Indians back. Obliged to lay bv with two of the canoes behind. nth. Walked back and brot up the two canoes. Gale still furious and finding that mj' people were not good boatsmen enough to follow me left the two boats in charge of Capt. Thing and at noon put ahead made about 10 miles and swamped the canoe. 1 2th. Gale still violent and canoe so leaky as to require one man to Bail the whole time kept on until noon and camped un- til night when it calmed and we put ahead aud made to the Cas- cades the roar of v\-liich v\'arned me to camp. Here overtook Capt. Stewart. 13th. Made our boat a little tighter with some pitch obtained of Capt. Stewart and made the portage of the Cascade carrying our things about i mile and letting our boat down with ropes rairiing hard made til 9 ock. at night when it rained so hard that that with the leakage we could keep the boat free of water no longer and put ashore. 14th. At 2 ock in morning cleared up a little and we put on Init it kept drizzling at 9 ock. made the Saw mill above the Fort 29o] WYETH'S SECOND EXPEDITION. 233 and got some breakfast not having eaten since, noon the day be- fore at 12 ock arrived at Fort Vancouver where I found Doct. McLaughhn in charge who received us in his usual manner he be has here power and uses it as a man should to make those about him and those who come in contact with him comfortable and happy- 15th. Early in the morning having hired another canoe put ahead and in a rainy cla^^ at about 12 ock. met the Bg May Dacre in full sail up the River boarded her and found all well she had put into Valparaiso having been struck by I^ightning and much damaged. Capt Lambert was well and brot me 20 Sandwich Is- landers and 2 Coopers 2 Smiths and a Clerk. 1 6th. Kept on up the river in order to make Fort Vancouver and pay m3^ respects to Doct. McLaughlin but the wind failed and we could not. 17th. Took the gig and went up to Tea Prairie to see about a location but found none. 1 8th. Came on board and put down the river for Oak point Xvhere we mean to examine for a location. 19th. Came too at Carneans[?] house and concluded to remain at least for the winter. 20th. After setting the forges at work and commencing a coal kiln houses etc, started up the river Wallammut in a gig the gig followed the Wallammut i mile then took a creek to the right and after 5 miles came to the farm of Mr. Thomas Mcka}'. where I was treated v;ith great kindness b^^ LaBonte his foreman and of him procured horses and proce[e]ded b}^ land until near night over hilly wooded country near night came out into large plains of good lands surrounded with good timber some oak and overtook Mess. Lees who had started the day before me and camped with them they are in search of a location. 2ist. Put out in the morning days travell through good lands rolling sufficient and assorted timber and water. At 3 ock. came to [and] crossed the Wallamut at Duportes''- House and from him got fresh Horses and proceed up on the E. side oi the river to Jervais 10 miles. 22nd. Not suiting myself as to a farm returried to Duportes and went to look at a prairie about 3 miles beloAV his place and concluded to occupy it it is about 15 miles long 7 wide surrounded with fine timber and a good mill stream on it. 2 2d Laid out a farm afternoon took a canoe and de[s]cended as far as falls. 23rd. Made the portage of the falls and was taken violently sick of vomiting and purging probably caused by having eaten some Lamprey Eels recovered toward night and arrived at Fort Vancouver and finished an arrangemxCnt in regard to trade. 24th. Went down the river to the vessel. "•'■ This name is given as "Dnpattj^s" on the map. 234 JOURNAL [291 25th. Making preparation for sending out parties 26tli. Do & sent off Sunsbury to trade Horses at the Dalles. Sent Stout up the Wallammut with 2 men and im- plements to commence farm and started myself up to Vancouver on buisness. 28th. Up the Wallamut with Mr. Nuttall and Towusend and Mr Stout. 29th. Going up to the falls and went a small distance up the Clackamas River to look at a spot there found it would not do. Saw there a chalk formation 30th. Returning down the rivers. 31st. At night reached the vessell at Carneans from this time until the 13th Oct. making preparation for a campaign into the Snake country and arrived on the 13th at Vancouver and was re- ceived with great attention b}^ all there 14th. Made up the river 12 miles 15th. " " " River 11 miles 1 6th. " " " River 13 miles to the Cascades. 17, 1 8, 19 Delayed by strong winds and making portage on the last dav at night sent a division off under charge of Capt. Thing 20, 21, 22nd. Same camp with nothing to eat but what we catch out of the river with our lines not liking to broach our stores for the voyage 23rd. At sundown our boats arrived from above and I im- mediately started up the river we pulled all night except stop- ])ing to cook at midnight 24th. After taking breakfas-t and giving the Kar.ackas two hours sleep we put up the river with a head wind dav raw and chill 25th. Arrived at noon at the Dalles and found all the people well and but one horse traded ^-,26th. Started Capt. Thing with 12 Kanackas and 6 white? and all the best Hor.ses 27th. Remained at same camp and traded 5 Horses at about $5.00 of goods each 28th. vStarted the l:>oats back and Hubbard down l->y land with 13 horses for the farm 29th. & 30th. Same camp traded 4 Horses. 31st. Started up the river Kanackas on foot for want of Horses and goods on miserably poor animals To the 7th Nov. moving slowly up the river during which time and before traded 18 Horses and 600 lbs dried Salmon which I have reserved for provisions af- ter we leave the river when I know we shall get none and hav- ing hired a canoe tor Walla Walla dispatched her with ihis salmon 2 loads of traps one woman one Indian and two whites slie sank once but we recovered all and suffered one da3's delay only to drv the fish we have lived chiefiv on trash and dogs fearing 292] WYETH'S SECOND EXPEDITION, 235 to commence our stock of provisions expecting to get little or nothing all winter and I do not mean to starve except when I cant help it. 8th. Traded one Horse a few drops rain today and for more than two thirds of the days since the ist of the month. Kept along the river traded 8 dogs today being a 2 days rations. 9th. Moved along the River Traded i dog but no Horses. loth. L,eft camp and went into Walla Walla found Mr. Pam- brum well and good natured, and got the news that Capt. Things ^•12 Kanac[k]as had deserted him and that he had gone in search of yO them on their trail. < "" nth. Went to Capt. Things camp and learned from Mr Baker that the Kanackas had taken about 2 bales of goods and 12 horses Returned to Walla Walla on the way met the men who went with Capt. Thing they had not been successful! dispatched an interpreter Mr. Richardson and two other men down the River in a canoe to head the fellows. 1 2th. Moved camp up the river a small piece for grass having crossed yesterday- no success in trading horses today the Indians ap- pear to think their fortunes are to be made by an opposition but they will find their mistake todsLj got Vv'ord that the Kanackas had not touched the Columbia nor passed the Utalla River and that Richardson had got a party of Indians to accompany him and horses and had taken up pursuit on land. 13th. Richardson stil[l] out At night dispatched 4 men after two Kanackas that have been seen by the Indians about 15 miles below Walla W'alla on the main river. 14th. Robinson and Richardsons party returned with no suc- cess Robinson had seen the track of shod Horses within 5 miles of Walla Walla 15th. At 10 [o]ck this morning dispatched Richardson and Rob- itison with two men to trace out the track seen by Robinson. 1 6th. An Indian brot in one shod Horse which had been taken By the Kanackas he found it at the Utalla River and brot word that there saw two of the scamps had bot a canoe and gone down leaving on [no?] horse except fat which they [the Indians?] took and one alive which he brot in 17th. Robinson & Richardson Returned no news yet of the rest i8th. Finding there is no immediate hope of getting the Kan- ackas I today dispatched Capt Thing to Fort Hall having I9[?] men viz 4 Kanackas 10 white men and himself a fur[.'*] man and three Nez Perces 19 in all. This is a picked up lot and I have great fears they will commit Robber}^ and desertion to a greater extent than the Kanackas have done but I was obliged to trust to the chance it is late and the Blue Mounts, are now covered w^hite with snow aitho the grass is green here within 30 miles of them. 19th. Went up the Walla Walla River about 7 milCeJs and 236 JOURNAL [293 raised a deposit of goods which I had made in the ground there fearing that some of Capt. Things men who knew where it was might desert and raise it and attempt to go to the Spanish Coun- try, I am now quite sick with a fever but must keep doing, 20th. Spent the day arranging packs for a move Weather clear and cold with much hoar frost and mist. 2 1 St. Deposited the spare goods on hand at Walla Walla fort 22nd. Finished arranging for moving and [have] given up all the Horses still missing viz. 2. 23rd. Moved down the Walla Walla River and camped on the Columbia about 6 miles below the Walla Walla taking leave on the way of Mr. Pambrun the gentleman in charge of the fort Still not well. 24. Moved about 15 miles down the Columbia and camped without wood night quite cold near some bad rapids just above the mouth of the I'talla where I have a cash of traps which I in- tend to raise. 25. Gloved about 15 rail[e]s down the river and camped I had forgot to mention that on the 23rd in the morning when I was about loading the horses I found that Ira Long a sick and as we have supposed craz}^ Kanacka was missing I then thought that he wou[l]d go at once to Walla Walla but do not hear of him yet I am at a stand to make up my mind w[h]ether he went out of camp and died suddenly or drowned in the river or ran off what he should run off for no one can conceive as no duty had been required of him and he had tea and other luxurys given him on acct. of sick- ness that no one else had it is a very strange affair to me. To- day I hear that one of the two Kanackas who went down the river in a canoe as per former report has been killed for killing liorses by the Indians other reports say a Kanacka has killed an Indian. I also hear that 6 of the runaways are on the heads of John Days River the whole of which storys I take to be lies invented to tell me in the hopes of a small present of tobacco. We live on dogs chiefly good luck traded 4 today. 26th. Made about 12 mils down the river and during the day traded a voung fat dog. 27th. ?\Ioved about 14. mils down the river traded one poor little dog and 4 dried salmon. We hear such contardictory and impossible accounts from the Indians of the Kanackes that I do not know what to believe. 2Sth. Moved down the River 15 miles traded nothing all dav providentially killed one goose which made supper and break- fast for 5 of us. Snowed a little this day and of course not much comfort for a little cold and wet spoils all the comfort of our camps. 29th. 16 mils down the river killed nothing traded 2 dogs and some little deer meat dried. Snowed all tlie first part of the (lav and uncomfortably cold rains totught very nncomfortalile some of us have no coats[?] [tents?] men gruml)le. 294] WYETH'S SECOND EXPEDITION. 237 30th. The rain of last night changed to snow and this morn- ing the Earth is white and the weather cold made 12 miles and crossed John Days River then 3 more along the main River and camped with nothing but grass to cook our supper. 31st. Made today 12 miles the last of yesterdays and some •of todays march pretty bad travelling for the horses owing to -cut rocks camped one mile up the river of falls called by the French "RevieudesShutes["]. I do not know if from the numerous rapids of this river or its proximity to the great falls of the Col- umbia which are about 3 miles below its mouth. There is here a a small villeage of Inds. from whom I understand by signs that the two Kanackes who de[s]cended the river stole horses here or killed Horses and in some wrangle with the chief concerning it one of the Kanackas shot him. I shall be sorr>' if this is true as in such case I shall be obliged to make a signal example of him both in order to quiet the Indians and prevent their rising upon the whites and as a terror to the other Kanackas. Dec. ist x\fter trading 4 dogs and a few salmon and roots and .•ascertained that there was no ford above or near us and that the Toad lay on the River we moved camp down to the mouth and and crossed at a rapid and tolerable deep ford then assended the hill by a ravine and descending again struck a good sized Beaver Creek at 6 miles due South while on the divide could see far ahead of a drear}' snowy exposed country without a stick of tim- der to relieve the eye except far in the distarce a black looking mass like a cloud of pine timber, 2nd. Moved camp earl^^ and left the creek on which we camp- ed by a ravine to ihe right running S. S. W. followed it to the height of land then down a ravine to the creek on which we camped last night 6 miles foll[ow]ed this creek 3 miles S. S. W then S. S.E. to the left of the creek by a ravine 5 more and camped 'We here find some little oak timber traded toda}^ about 30 lbs. dried deer meat. 3rd. Mr^de t6 mils to the River des Shutes S. S. E. and camped near about 20 Eodges of Indians had to bu}' what little wood we used a thing I mortally detest last night about 12 sett in to snow before morning turned to rain which lasted all day the coldest I ever knew and blew a gale in our teeth this has been a miserable uncomfortable day the first part of it we assend- ed gradually until we reached a high ridge then de[s]cended suddenly to the river on the ridge considerable snow and the whole country covered with little round cones of earth denoting that the winds blow ox^er this divide continually and strong. Grass is far as I could see prett}^ good. 4th. Moved camp S. S. W. 3 miles and camped on the fork of the River coming from timbered hills to the W. N. W. We hear that the two Kanackas have been followed by the Indians and killed in revenge for killing one of them and their Horses, 238 JOURNAL [295 5th. Same camp trying to trade horses get none 3'et. 6th. Same camp 7th. Same camp 8th. Same camp 9th. vSame camp During all this time traded but one Horse, but fared well enough for food as we obtained as man}' dogs as we could eat during the time Gully my Indian having lost his horse went out to hunt him and as I believe with a determination to quit me he found his horse and sent it to camp by an Indian with word to send his things with some trifling excuse but I kept the Horse and things the Indian vrhom he sent said he would go and take the Horse for which I gave him a flogging and he went off during this time we percussioned 3 Rifles our powder being so badly damaged as to render flint looks useless. In this vicinitA^ there are Elk and Deer as we trade their meat and skins of the Inds. in small quant- ities the grass here is good and here I cashed some goods our horses being to[o] poor to carry them on. loth Moved but without our guide whom I had engaged who was among the missing when we started and I. suppose engaged only to get something but without intending to start We took a S. S. W course and crossed the fork on which we had camped for some days past and after mounting the small mountains which range along this fork found an extensive plain beyond v^-hich white and hio-h rose a range of mountains disheartening to look at but ahead is the word and the spirit seenis to raise v\-!th the occasion this range runs E. & W. made this day 11 miles to the foot of the range along which is a small stream[?] here we cashed some provisions for cur return route and some loads of dry goods which our honses are too weak to carry. nth. S. S. W. and mounted the mountains which we found much less formidable than they appeared to he the earth and trees are covered with a heavy hoar frost which at a distance made them look as if covered deep with snow of which there was but little these mour. tains have scattering groups of pine timber and some oak and the little plains in them have brown[?] cedars sim- ilar to those of N. E. but still of a different sort but yet the rob- ins in considerable number feed on the berries which reminded me of old pleasures and home where I have often been out to shoot the.se birds irom the laving[?] but these are too painful lo be in- dulged and the present evil is enough without calling up old joys to enhance it made this day 15 miles and camped on snow water with good pine wood day cloudy wind N. E. and cold Saw the first elk arid deer sign for some tmie they say we cannot cross the divide to Clamat but I will go as far as T can. 1 2th Engaged an Indian Guide last night but he too it seems has backed out as I cannot find him this morning Made one mile down the ravine in which we cam.ped and came to a small creek ruiniing about I{. tlien assended the hills and after 5 mils 296] WYETH^S SECOND EXPEDITION, 239 came to a larger creek then 3 miles more where the trail gave out then courses S. S. W. then struck S. b}^ E. 3 mils and crossed a small creek this and the last running E then 3 mils more and camped on a dry ravine all these last courses S. by E grass this far pretty good and country timbered and prettily levell today with small prairies. Saw much Elk and Deer signs but killed none. 13th Made 5 miles S. by E. over level timbered with small openings country and came to a creek wdth ver}^ bad cut rock banks at least 400 feet high we had much difficult^^ in getting our horses down to the water and up the opposite bank but suc- ceeded after laming several of our horses this creek is rapid tol- erably large and runs N. E. we then made 3 miles S. by E- and camped the snow here covers the ground and the horses have to dig for their food. Saw today 12 deer and a great quan- tity of Elk and Deer sign and one bear track after camping Vi^ent out to hunt but could kill nothing toda^^ the first clear da^' for four days the fog lifted a little and enabled us to see a range of snowy mts on the west side of us and one very high bearing S. W. distant about 25 miles should we have any considerable fall of snow now we should loose all our horses they could not sub- sist with much more than there is now all the dog meat which we have brot vcith us from the last Inds. is done and we have novv' to look to our guns to supply us or eat our horses. We have about 4 bushells of rice and flour in camp for cases of extremit}^ and a little dog grease. Small game there is none we have but 10 lbs of powder along and that damaged Go ahead very cold for the 4 last days. i4ih Made S. E. 4 miles to a ver^'^ small creek running in an immense chasm into which we got and camped the grass being good and oar horses having had nothing last night except what ihe^' dug up from beneath several inches of snow saw many deer today but killed none sent our hunters out after camping all but one returned empty and him I suppose has lost himself in the forests as I heard a gun late at night and returned several shots weather still quite foggy and very cold. 15th S. E. hj E. 4 miles and down the ravine the snow grow- ing less and less visibly in this direction got out of the woods and saw the country bare of snow here found a lodge of Indians who have 32 Hors:-s traded one of them and have the promise of trading two more in the morning the man missing last nigh[t] came [in] thi[s] mng. i6th. Traded the two horses one of which cost 8 23/3 cents of beads first cost. Made E- down the ravine 2 mils then struck a •good trail crossing the ravine and going off S. S. W. which I fol- lowed over rocky high land 8 mils and came to a very large creek I shouia think it must be at least one-half of the River Des Shutes at least ruiniing in. an immense chasm into which we de- 240 JOURNAL [297 [s]cended and camped in good grass and plenty of dry wood which makes us very comfortable for the night is very cold dur- ing the march over the high land saw a chain of mts on our left and the other side of the river white with snow and partly wooded. 17th. Went up the creek \V. vS. W. 2 miles when it turned south and we forded it at a deep ford horses suffered much from the coldness of the water then wound S. E. up the opposite bank of the river very high and precipitous 2 miles more here saw man}^ deer killed none after attaining the heigh[t] made 8 miles S. S. W. through timber and snow then S. S. E. 4 miles also through timber saw several places where deer had been killed by the wolves which are here numerous and very large camped at a little grass the first seen today where the horses can dig up a little food. The country ahead appears more open we have now a little rice to eat and no meat begin to look at the horses still cold. 1 8th. Made S. S. E. 12 miles to a small creek during this days march a snowy range of high mts. in points lay along our right and front stretching so that our course today just doubles their eastwardly termination at a place w^here probabl)^ a fork of the river Des Shutes passes this range runs N. E. & S. W. still farther on our left and apparently on the other side of the same river there is another range ru;;::i;ig X. by S. today saw a ver}'' great amt. of sign and deer and have concluded to stop and hunt tomorrow and rest the horses tonight a little snow squall. 19th. Same camp Vv^ent out hunting killed 2 deer and several wolves this day came to us 5 Walla Walla Inds. who are out hunting they camp with us tonight they sav that the game comes down from the mts. in the winter on account of the snows which is the occasion of its being so plenty at this time one man otit of camp tonight probably lost sl;all wait tomorrow for him if he does not come in the meantime and take another hunt for meat which is riow quite a luxury. 20th. Same camp killed one deer found the lost man 2ist. Made ^>. vS. E. 15 miles toward the eastwardly termina- tion of the range of rats which lias for Sv):ne time been visible on our right at this point we can see no mts. but a little farther on the let't they commence again apparently the same range which we have seen for some time ranging on the K. side of the ri\'er. Killed no game today but saw plenty. 22nd, S. E. by E. 10 miles and struck a small creek which though very rapid was so hard froz:'n over that we crossed it on the ice then N. E. i)^ mil[e]s and came to a very large creek which I take to be the main river it is about as large as the other fork which we crossed on the 17th inst. country a little more broken deer plenty btit killed none today a little warmer than usttal. 23rd. Started up the river E. S. Iv. and gradually in 4 milLejs 298] WYETH'S SECOND EXPEDITION 24^ travel rounded to a S. S. W. course and made 1 2 more the last 6 of which the snow increased in such a manner that tonight we find no grass for our Horses and being afraid to advance with them another days march I have determined to send them back and with 3 men I propose to build canoes and assend as far as I can and ascertain if it is possible to get the horses through and if so to send back for them and if not to ascertain if there is beaver and if so trap it if not further advance [in] this quarter is useless. Tonight set in to snow hard but soon turned to rain. 24th. Snowed and rained all last [night] and still snowing with a gale of wind from S. S. W. nearly all the horses gone astray about 12 having found all but one killed a poor Horse for food and sent the party all but three back to find grass for the horses cut down two large pines and commenced two canoes gale all day with occasional snow and rain. 25th. Same camp gale S. S. \V. Snow and rain all da^^ a miserable Christmas worked what little we could on the canoes. 26th. Day fair and calm warm go ahead making canoes 27th. Da}' fair calm and warm still at the canoes 28th. day fair calm and warm still at the canoes and eating horse meat 29th. Fair weather and mild. 30th. Fair weather and mild. Sick with indigestion 31st. Fair weather and mild all so far South wind myself better and finished the canoes and horse meat at the same time viz; this evening at supper the men have called our two boats Black Snake & Triton. ■"^•<-i835 Jany ist, Started in the morning in the canoes about 5 miles by the river about 2 yi miles due south and came to a rapid in attempting to assend which got filled with water and afterward in towing with the line she broke loose and went down stream we recovered her after a long run and assended again to the rapid and it being near night camped killed today one fine fat goose warm south wind rain snow deeper as we proceed and is now about 2 feet country rough and covered with pines set 4 traps for beaver today and am in hopes to have one for breakfast. 2nd. Went to my traps found nothing then made snow shoes and set out with one man to explore the river took a due south course and in 3 or 4 miles came unexpectedly to the river there running smooth. I was happy to see it as I was entirely tired of this mode of travelling my shoes were too small and I frequently sunk into the snow and [it] bothered me much to get out again sometimes I would tread on my shoes and fall down and on the whole I thoughCt] I could get along better without them returned to camp killed three ducks for four of us small allowance with our men took our boat up to the rapids and spent the residue of the day in getting our canoe past the rapid most of the time up to my middle in this cold water had to make 242 JOURNAL [299 a portage at last of about ^-4 of a mile the river here makes a detour to the E. and around S to west to the place where we take our things across. 3rd. Raised my traps and found one beaver caught the large- est I ever saw^ I think he weighed 65 lbs. and killed one duck a very seasonable supply of food the residue of the day finished making the portage and sett 8 traps the other Boat also got set- ting above Snow today and rained hard last night nearl}- all night. Wind Strong N. W. the first wind beside S. since 10 days. 4th. Found but one beaver in our traps took a jaunt up the river at about 6 miles straight line S. the river forks into two apparently equal streams followed the left one about 2 milsS. by K. and returned to camp tired enough having found only sign enough in this distance to set 3 traps the river winds so that we have to paddle twice the real distance rained and snowed some during the day. Saw for the first time on this route swans the}' appear plenty here country still timbered but much more level. 5th. Caught 3 Beaver rained and snowed hard all last night and part of today raised camp and camped about 2 miles below the forks mentioned yesterday one of the beaver caught today would weigh I should think 70 lbs. and our fries look finely with sundry roasting sticks around full of meat the beaver are fat and we live finely again. Wind strong and south. 6th Rained all the forenoon and hail and snow all the after- noon caught no beaver saw very little sign heard a rapid or fall ahead killed 2 swans so fat that we could not eat all the grease a rare thing in this country to be troubled with fat Seems good to live well after poor horse meat and short supply Shall lay down the course tomorrow when I get it more accurately today being too thick to see and the river more winding than ever timber less plenty and very small and but little of the large kind of pine country as far as we can see very level with here and there a round conical mountain. 7th Started up the river to sett traps found sign for but one and returned to camp at the same place as last night killed one swan which would weigh I should think 35 lbs. too fat to eat one we eat yesterday yielded nearh' 2 qts. of oil more than we could eat with it. These birds are delicious it is strange that one only does two of us two meals that is to say a day. They dont eat so in the states day pretty cold wind S. W. strong little snow today and some sun out the bed of the river is a soit white stone or hard clay the same as found on the Clacamas I think it is of the chalk formation. 8th Remained all day at same camp on account of a severe snow storm it snowed all day and fell about one foot Blew strong from the vSouth which is almost constant wind here. 9th went down the river and raised some traps we had set there and returned to same camp The river from the last place[toj 30o] WYETH'S SECOND EXPEDITION. 243 which I brought it runs S. E. i mile at which point a fork com- ing from the Eastward but it was frozen up so we could not as- send it then south 5 miles to this camp. loth Snowed and rained all last night hard and today so we are blessed with about 8 inches of slush makes every thing very uncomfortable did not move camp. nth. East night grew cold and set in for a hard snow storm with a gale of wind from the W. S. W. which continued without intermission until sunset today so we did not move camp the cracking of the falling trees and the howling of the blast was more grand than comfortable it makes two individuals feel their in- significance in the creation to be seated under a blankett with a fire in front and 3 Yz feet of snow about them and more coming and no telling when it will stop, tonight tis calm and nearly full moon it seems to shine with as much indiiference as the storms blow and wrhjether for weal or woe, we two poor wretches seem to be little considered in the matter. The thoughts that have run through my brain while I have been lying here in the snow would fill a tolume and of such matter as was never put into one, my in- fancy, my youth, and its friends and faults, my manhoods troubl- ed stream, its vagaries, its aloes mixed with the gall of bitterness and its results viz under a blankett hundreds perhaps thousands of miles from a friend, the Blast howling about, and smothered in snow, poor, in debt, doing nothing to get out of it, despised for a visionar}^ nearly naked, but there is one good thing plenty to eat health and heart. 12th. Started up stream and made S. 6 miles at which point there is a considerable creek coming in from W. S. W. water as warm as the main river and not frozen up. Then 3 miles S. S. E. and camped. Saw but little beaver sign today river not very rapid but winding saw only two swans could not kill them caught one ^^earling beaver spit snow all day at night set in to snow hard moderately cold wind S. but moderate. 13th 6 miles W. by N. creek very winding and more rapid than usual and camped just below a severe rapid fine sun in the forenoon but cloudy and snow spits in the afternoon and this evening. 14th Snowed about 4 inches last night. Today pretty cold passed the rapid on the south side of the south channel there be- ing a small island at this place just above the island there is a raft of drift timber which extends across the whole river this we made a portage of for about 6 rods at the rapid I hauled the canoe wading in the water about waste deep and remaining in it about 3 hours and got quite numb but at last got through with it we then assended the river 3 miles more in good water but very winding S. W. to make which I think we paddled 8 miles to another rapid not severe finding that it would take some time and being obliged to return to camp soon concluded not to pass 244 JOURNAL [301 this rapid and returned to the first rapid and set 6 traps day windy from S. W. and some snow and sunshine. 15th. Last night excessively cold the cracking of the trees kept me awake part of the night and night before 1 was kept up most of the night by a fever arising from indigestion today cold calm and clear as the sun got high it was extremely pleas- ant and this is the only day I have seen that would pass for a pleasant one in a good climate this winter went to the traps found nothing decended the rapid after another cold job in the water and returned to our camp of the 13th inst on the way down saw 5 swan the first since the 12th but killed nothing but 3 ducks We are getting short of provisions again at evening very cold again. 1 6th Started down the stream and made the portage of the falls about one hour after sunset last night the ther. must have been 10 below zero and the river scum over with drift ice which made vis make haste for if we should get frozen up here it would be hard times for food the water fowl and beaver would be done and other game there is absolutely none and to travel would be almost impossible there is four feet of snow however we could try snow shoes. Killed 4 ducks and one swan today the latter would weigh at least 45 lbs. a very seasonable supply as all our food gave out this morning. Day calm sunny not very cold tonight strong south wind and rain. 17th Moved camp down stream about a mile and found our other boat with Mr. Richardson & Rob[in]son the latter during the severe cold had frozen his toes and fingers and the former was unwell with a numbness in his hips they reported to me that the beaver on this creek had made them sick probably this was what was the matter with me there is plenty of wild parsnip here they raised camp with us and we stopped the canoes where we built them and made a portage of )( of a mile this severe work in deep snow we then decended about 3 miles and came to rapids part of which we let our boats over by the line in about y2 mile more came to worse rapids and made a portage of about 98 mile then immediately let the boats down further rapids about 100 rods to do which I had to remain in the water the whole time it was after dark when I got through the other boat got nearly through and gave it up and I suppose have camped with- out fire or food. The river falls at each of these carrying places at least 50 feet Rained most all day. 1 8th. Went up above the last rapid to see the other boat found them comfortably camped they made a portage of their things and I attempted to run their boat empty just as I took the Shute the bow struck a rock I did not see she swung round filled at once and commenced whirling over like a top I hung to her and passed without further damage than mashing both of mv feet severely between tlie boat and a rock was in mucli pain 302] WYETH'S SECOND EXPEUITIOX. 245 all this day buL not very lame we run by the river about two miles and passed some bad rapids then made a portage of about a % mile into a slew of the river v^'hich we followed about V4 mile further then were forced to make a bad portage up a steep bank of lava about 100 feet this portage about J4 mile we then ran about two miles further and camped snow here not so deep as above and apparently diminishing fast men much tired and dis- couraged and wish to abandon the canoes which 1 do not mean to do until I am obliged to cashed at the first portage toda}' 22 traps good weather today. 19th. Started down stream and ran a continuous rapid for about 2 miles we let our boats down about }'l mile then crossed the river and let the boats down a few rods and finding the river was pretty much all rapids and falls concluded to abandon the boats cashed all but our blanket^ books araunition axe and ket- tles and took it on foot with about 60 lbs each on our backs and r foot of hard snow into which we sank sometimes and sometimes not it however diminished as we proceeded we made about 6 miles and saw plent^^ of deer and camped killed one which was just in time as a little piece of swan was all the meat left in camp. 1 am very tired [and J hungry but the deer will cure all this there is little snow at tliis place cur caraj I think can not be far off on the other side of the river I can see a grass}^ plain of about 30 miles long and about 5 wide bare of snow snowed a little this morning day fine tonight freezing a little. 20th Started late sore footed but with a full belly atid an ad- dition of a;:)0ut 20 lbs meat each we made about 6 miles and pass- ed our camp of the 22nd and 23r(l ult. about i mile further we crossed a small fork the one we before crossed on the ice then S. 2 miles and camped and tried hard for a deer btit could not get one altho we saw a great many da>' nne this evening cool grass not much covered with snow see no sign of camp ^^et. 2 1 St. Made 2 miles N. to the river and camped took a turn down the river about 5 miles to look for some sign of our camp found a little Indiau sign of about the same age but nothing of our people. Afternoon went out to a high hill to the W. and made a large pile of brush and after dark set fire to it in order that if our people are rear that they may see it and come to us sent a man over the river to look but he could not cross but he saw one of their camps shall go tomorrow and ascertain it it so killed nothing today so we shall have no breakfast in the morning da^"- fine tolerable cool i inch of snow last night which went off today. 22nd. Snowed part of last night and rained the residue and the iorenoon of today snow the rest and part of the night in morning our hunter went out and wounded a deer which the wolves ran down but before he could find him they had eaten up all but enough for 2 meals this morning breakfasted on two beav- 246 JOURNAL L3"3 er tails which I had laid by and forgotten so we have not yet on this trip lost a meal as yet myself in the morning made a raft and endeavored to cross the river but found 1 had selected a bad place and could not do it went above found a better place made another raft and succeeded found one of our camps so we now have someclevv^ to camp and shall push for it after getting a small supply of meat beforehand wind strong southwardly camp- ed this night in a cave of the rocks one mile S. of last nights camp. 2-^rd Moved down to camp ot 22nd inst an.d went out to hunt killed nothing myself but Mr Richardson killed a fawn so we have 2 meals ahead besides two nights supper Mr R. is sick of a bad cold in his chest and some biles on his neck and cannot carry his pack Rained steady all day. 24th Made 12 miles N. by W. and using what looked like a line ford I tried to wade the river but at first failed went a little lovi'er and succeeded and got back safe but benumbed with cold and after warming myself at a fire which the rest had built took mv things across and built a roaring fire to warm the others as they came over here found some beaver cuttings saw but little deer or sign today cold wind W. cloudy snow nearly gone. 2Sth. Made 10 miles N. and seeing a little deer sign stopped and our hunter went out during the march we heard a gun on the west side of the river we fired guns and were answered toward night a little Snake Indian came to us and induced us to go to their camp which was among the cedars about 5 miles N. E. we found them without meat but we bought of them a lean dog of which we made supper and enough left for breakfast so tis rub and go. there were three lodges they had no guns but. had killed much deer as proved by the number of skins they had last night and this forenoon snowed about 5 inches today rained and melted most of it no water except snow and that dirty at this camp. 26th lender the guidance of a Snake Indian we struck N. \V. to the river 7 miles and forded it at a rapid and waist deep ford then W. by N. 4 miles and came to S lodges of Snakes here our guide I suppose heard that our camp had moved and backed out of his job by running away we then struck N. \V. S miles and came to the' small river on which we [camped] the i8lh 19th and 20th uko here we saw on,e Indian v/ho ran from us who appear- ed to be a Snake, while v/e were debating which course to pursue we espied 4 Indians on the opposite side of tlie creek the.se we spoke and they Informed us where our camp was and one of them took my pack to it they had killed several deer but we thought to get to camp and did not take any we made from the creek X. N. W. up a verv steep high h:ll 5 miles and coming ver}- dark we (tamped for the first time this trl]) without supper and me without blanketts and tired enough. 304] WYETH\S SKCONTD EXPEDITION. 247 27th Got up and having; no breakfast to cook or eat started the earlier and moved N. N. W. 2 miles and the rest refused to go further preferring to wait until some chance Indian should come along hunting to take them the right way to camp I having no pack started in quest of it and passing the N. N. W. course in i V2 mile found it on a little thread of water running N. and deep snow during the time we had been gone they had killed 20 deer and had not starved the Walla Walla Indians are here hunting. They go out on their horses and run them and as the deer o-et tired the Inds. get good shots at them but the number wounded is much greater than that killed on these the wolves feast at night and keep up a continual howl after these last comes the ravens for their share I found missing from yesterday 6 horses among which was my two fine riding horses and three others which have been stolen by the Snakes who are up to this kind of dealing today sent men to look for the 6 and they brot but one day fine for an)^ country and warm tonight freezing cold. 28th Sent out two men again for the 5 missing horses and aft- er finding the residue which not until noon started N. by W. and after 12 miles struck the old trail on which I came up about 6 miles from our camp of 16 & 17 day very fine nothing to eat tonight but a little flour camped on a little stream made by the thawing of the snow. 29rh Rose early and without any breakfast started down the valley on which we camped last night which joins a large fork of the Des Shutes in about 3 miles from this and leaving the old trail on which I came up to the left made N. N. E. 2 miles then leaving the valley to the left made i ^-2 miles N. K. then going down a very steep and high cui rock bank E. i mile crossed the large fork of the Des Shutes about 2 miles below ray camp of the 1 6th and 17th ulto. this ford is deeper and more rapid than the one I made before possibly the stream is higher on account of the thawing of the snow We are camped with about 12 lodges of Walla Wallas they have at this moment a good supply of meat deer which they are drying I presume they have not often so much on hand as the>' seem to value it highly on my arrival I made the chief a good present to induce him to influence his people to trade but as ^-et have traded of root and meat but about 3 days supply I intend waitiiig here three nights in order that they make another hunt and then perhaps I may get a sufficient supply to take me down. Tomorrow is Sunday and there will be neither traditig nor hunting in this camp this is my birthday but I have forgotten how old I am 30th This unless my reconiiig is wrong is Sunday at day dawn the chief called the Inds. to prayers which consist of a short recitation followed by a tune in which all join without words after which a note in accord to wind off this is repeated several times on Sunday and is a dayly practice at da}dight to- 24-8 JOURNAL [305 day the two men sent for the horse^i came iii and broiig'ht 4 2 of which were m}^ riding horses this day warm as June in X. E. and no snow in this valley. 31st The Inds. commence their meal with religious ceremonys and then come atid beg a smoke the day is also closed with religious ceremonies traded about 2 daj^s provisions of the Indians day fine as summer and the grass begins to start a little Feb. ist Started [from?] camp early and made 8 miles N. by E. over a trail which we followed the latter part of the 16 ulto. I then laid the course S. S. W. to make our camp of the 16 & 17 which was about i mile above our last nights camp traded today about 2 days provisions looked at the rocks a little and as the country has been the same as far as I have been a description of the bluffs here will ansvv^er for the whole. There are some cut blufs of Basalt in its original position but they are chietl}- a very coarse sand stone of an ash color in layers some of which are finer and some coarser it is soft and is composed of rubble siione of lava and primitive rocks it sometimes contains organic remains bones I have taken out of it in a fo3[s]il state a small piece of y/hich I have preserved Today cloudy and on the liigh land over which we came today it was quite chilly but in the valley of the Small creek on which we are camped it is warm latter part of the dav sunny. 2nd Moved camp X. by E. !^ miles over a ])laii; a-.id pretty good trail leaving entirely the route which I followed coming up the Indians killed some deer grass aopears better day cloudy or foggv until about noon when the sun came out like April in X. E. ' 3rd This day the India:is concluded not to move camp I therefore requested the chief to call on his people to come atid trade meat they traded about 6 days provisions and I left them following the trail N. by E. S miles to a creek v,'nich we crossed in our march of the 12th u[l]to. the Banks of this creek is of fine deep red clay and at this camp there is a hot spring too hot to bear the hand in long and smoking like a coal pit it tastes of sulphur and iron and deposits a whitish substance on the pebbles as it dries awa3v' we hear for the first time this se-ason the croak- ing of the frogs trail good, grass good, day cloudy and chill. Ther in spring 191" 4th. Early in mng. took my thermometer to ascertain t!ie heat of the spring found it to be 134'' and took a good bath by going a little distance down the stream to find a suitable tempera- ture and this first time for a long while feel myself pretty clean, rose camp and crossed the little stream on which we camped and leaving tlie Indian trail struck X. X. E. and in 6 miles came to the main river Des Shutes alor.g which we found a small trail we made 4 miles X. and camped during this distance the river could be run by a good boatman but it is almost a continued rapid 3o6] WYETH'S SECOND EXPEDITION. ' 249 the rocks of this march appear to be all shades between green and red similar to the earth it appears by being porous to be volcanic the first course of the march verj^ mir}^ the last firm and pretty good, grass improving, day cloudy in morning sunny this afternoon. Saw much Big Horn and deer sign by the way. 5th Made along the river i mile N. then west 2 miles up a mountain then N. i mile and down a ravine then E. N. E. 2 miles to the main river again and down a ravine then 7 miles N. by E. along the main river and camped trail plain all the way but very hilW and stony grass good, day at first cloudy and on the mountain much hoar frost in afternoon sunny the upper part of the mountain was of mica slate very much twist- ed this afternoon the rock was volcanic and in some places un- . derlaid with green claj^ Saw today small holders of a blackrock which from its fracture I took to be bituminous coal but its weight was about that of hornblende perhaps it might be Obsidian but I think was heavier than any I have ever seen river all this days march might be run if there is no bad place where I cut the mountain saw Big Horn trails but not the game. 6th Made along the river 4 miles N. by W. during which space saw nothing that might not be passed by a good boatman then mounted the W. bank of the river and came to a large cedar plain 3 miles N. by W. then N. by E. over the plain 6 miles more to tinkers camp in crossing at this camp wet my cases with all my papers by a horse falling in the river while fording day cloudy with a little snow found this branch some higher than when I passed up here we found and raised a small cash which I made on my way up and during the march sent two men to raise another which I made at the next camp above from these Indians I hear that [of] my runaway Kanackas 10 took the trail over the Blue one was drowned in crossing some ford one froze in the upper country that the residue rafted the Snake riv- er one more died somehow about the falls that 7 are gone down to Vancouver tonight traded S dogs for their fat to kill the lice on my horses. 7th Earh^ in the day the two men sent to raise the cash came •in with its contents undamaged exchanged at this camp a poor little, lame, mare for a tolerable horse in pretty good order trad- ed for a knife each 6 dogs today used the grease of these dogs to kill the lice on my horses that are nearly covered with them day cloudj^ but not cold in the valley Mount Hood bears ^2 point N. of N. W. sick myself of a bowell complaint cashed at this camp I ys bales corn and 7 setts shoes and nails. Sth N. N. W. 16 miles in the first place 2 miles to the top of an elevated range of woodless hills which skirt the west side of the creek on which we camped then down the slope of these hills 4 miles more during this space much snow then struck in- to a little creek which we followed 6 miles then up the left bank 250 JOURNAL [307 of this creek to another and larger fork of the same 4 miles and camped in good gra.ss This creek comes from the S. W. and is now as large as the small creek on which I camped the first night after leaving the mouth of the river Des Shutes on my way up there are several Indians vvith me w^ho say that once there was much beaver on this creek but that the British Cos have trapped it out day cloudy a tew drops of rain. 9th Moved camp early on a plain and good trail N. N. W. 10 miles to the Dalls after following on this trail 3 miles we came to a small creek coming from the W. S. W. and joining the one on which we camped last night and at 5 miles more another which either joirjs the same very near the Columbia or goes into the Columbia found Soaptilly[?] and a few more Chinooks at the river of whom I traded one horse and a canoe they report 7 Canackas gone down and that one was drowned at the falls and one froze in the mountains leaving one unaccounted for rained a little today. loth Started early in a very leaky canoe which kept us bailing all the time and made 8 miles N. W. 5 W. and 3. S. \V. i west and on account of high wind camped about noon a little rain as usual. nth i\t about sunsett last night the wind lulled a little and we made a start but the wind continued high and about 2 ock we arrived at the Cascades a little above v>'hich we camped this morning went to the Cascades and there found Mr Erraatinger with a brigade of 3 boats taking up the outfits for the upper forts also Capt. Stewart Mr Ray and one more gentleman made the port- age and in 12 hours made the saw mill. 12th In the morning made to Vancouver and found there a polite reception and to my great astonishment Mr Hall J. Kell[e]y he came in Co. with Mr Young from Monte El Rey and it is said stole between them a bunch of Horses Kell[e]y is not received at the Fort on this account as a gentleman a house is given hira and food sent him from the Gov. Table but he is not suffered to mess here I also found 7 of my runaway Kanackas they appear to be ver}^ sick of their joo' so I have concluded not to be severe wnth them I hear also that Fort Hall has traded 300 skins up to what time do not know or how true also that Tom Bule & Harry two more of the runaways are with some of McTr!n'''3~'men on-S-nake River they will probably fall in at Fort Hall 13th Went down to the station at Carneaus[?] and found all well and doing pretty well. This is Sunday and I have lost 3 days somewhere. During the residue of this month sent Mr Richardson to the Dalles with supplies for the party which I left above trapping he had tempestuous weather and was gone 13 days myself took a trip up the Wallamut to look after the farm and mv tavlor who liad deserted me during the winter after 3o8] WYETH'S SECOND EXPEDITION. 251 Richardson had gone I took a small canoe and proceeded up the Columbia and in my progress got filled with the violence of the wind and quantity of rain I arrived at Vancouver in the morn- ing 23rd Feb. and met a reception such as one loves to find in such a country as this 24th Started down the Columbia to the mouth of the Walla- mut up which about 4 miles to the head of Wappatoo Islands here finding the canoe to deep to proceed against the rapid cur- rent of this river novv^ very high we put down the west slew and crossed over the first bank of the river into the waters back and went to the Farm of Mr Thomas McKay and procured horses and went by land this took us all of the 25 & 26 both of which days it rained hard all the little streams made us swim our horses and some of the open prairies were sv\imraing and much of them wading at night of the 26th arrived at Sandy camp just above which I had begun a farm. 27th Went to the farm and fotind the Taylor and Sloat the foreman gone down to see me they having heard of m^^ return during the day went up to Mr lyces place in order to get Bab- tiste to school with him in which I succeeded 28th returned to Camp Sandy rain today 29th Started for McKay Farm during a hard rain and snow 30th Arrived at McKays farm 31st Back to station at Carneaus [?] place and here found my runaway TaA'lor Match ist From this time until the 8th employed him in get ting out coopers stuff and timber for a house boat which I intend to build. Apl 13th Sunday I suppose emplo3''€d in getting out stuff for the house boat in cutting 8000 hoop poles and in building a canoe 60 feet long wide and deep enough to chamber barrells of which she will take 25 she is clean of knotts shakes and almost of sap and 27 feet cut off the same tree of the same kind of stuff the whole tree was 242 feet long and this by no means the largest tree on Wappatoo Island this is of the Spruce kind to- day I am on my way down to Fori William where the Brig lay to regulate matters there I have just parted from Mr McLaughlin Esq. on his way to view the Fallatten [Tualatin}plains I suppose with some idea of making liim a farm there some day I have now out of 21 people 7 sick and little work can be done after deducting from the remaining 14 a provision boat to trade food and enough to take care of the sick up to the first of this month it rained con- tinually and about % of the time since I find the plows which I brought from the States of no use in the nevv^ lands here no news as vet from Bg. or Capt Thing So far with much exertion we provided ourselves with food but the whites in this country are exhausted of all kinds. COPY OF A LETTER AND A STATEMENT OF FACTS PERTAINING TO A CLAIM BASED UPON OPERATIONS INVOLVED IN THE TWO EXPEDITIONS. Camb. Dec 13th 1847 Dear Sir, The papers herewith enclosed are in continuation of of the subject brought to 3'our notice in my letter of the 5th of April last which was accompanied b>- copy of statements relating to claims of John McLoughlin Esq., fonnerty chief Factor in charge of the H. B. Co's western district comprising all the territories oc- cupied by that Co west of the Rocky Mts. but who has since re- tired from their service, and resides at Oregon City. This state- ment or memorial was dated previous to the late treaty of bound- ary with Great Britian, and under the impression that his rights would be subjected to the capricious justice of the new settlers who had then formed a provisional government. I conceive that the said treaty fully secures his rights, or should they not be secured by the treaty, you will oblige me by securing them so far as in your power. I have placed the copy of his memorial as above stated in your hands for this purpose. At this time I shall confine myself to my own interests in Oregon. Having gone to Oregon in march 1S32 for purposes recognized by the convention then existing between the U. S. & G. B. having formed establishments there of the same character and for the same purposes, as those formed previously by the N. W. & Hudson's Bay Cos. having maintained one of the same through tenant to the present time, and having after two expeditions, ac- companied by much suffering and expenditure of five years time, and more than $20,000 in money, established the nucleus of the present American settlement in these regions, I ask the American government to place my interests in that country on as favorable a basis, as the treaty of boundary places those of British subjects whose pos[s]essions are of the same character. The recommendation of the President would benefit only actual settlers, and would en- tirely exclude me. It seems to me a law might be passed consist- ent with justice, granting a preemption to all Americans who have ever resided in Oregon, and who occupied land there, and con- tinued to hold the same either directly or bv agents or tenants, to .'54 LHTTF.R [vi the absolute extent of the property so occupied, as it ^vas at ihe period of the orgaijization of the provisior.al goverumeiit of Oregon. And to all Americans actual settlers, occupying lands after the or- ganization of said provisional government, and until the extens^on. of the lav/s of the U. S. over the territory, a preemption to all the lands so occupied not exceeding one square mile. I do not believe a law mainly such as proposed above vvould benefit a single American, except myself. I do not know one other who has occupied more than a mile square, while tliere are .sev- eral British subjects who have done so, and whose claims are ail secured bv the treaty whether large or small. And unless some such law is passed it appears to me that I am to be stripped of all mv rights, and that the great sacrifices 1 have made will inure to the the benefit of all concerned except myself. That you may bet- ter understated why I desire some protection irora the government I here with seiid a statement of facts No. i , and a petition to Congress No 2. I ren'.ain \'ery Respectfully Yr' obt Svt. Xathi J. Wyeth. To Hon. J. G. Palfrty, M. C. (Statement of facts Xo. i) On the loth day of March 1S32 I left Boston in a vessel v.-ith 20 men for Baltimore where 1 was joined by four more, and on the 27th left by Rail Road for Frederic Md from thence to Brownsville we marched on foot, and took pa.'^sage from that place to Liberty Mo. on various steamboats, which place we left for the prairies on the 12th of May with 21 men, three having d-^serted, and on the 27th of May three more deserted. On the 8th of July we reached Pierre's Hole at the head of Levris River where was then a rendez- vous of Trappers and Indians. V\'e remained at this place until the 17th at which time my party had been reduced by desertion and dismis-sial to 11 men, and then started for the Columbia arriv- ing at Cape ]3isappointment 01 the Sth Nov. 1832, one mian having died on the route. There i learned that a vessel o i which I relied for supplies hati been wrecked at the Society Is- lands. This intelligence discouraged the party so much that all but two requested a discharge. Of the S who then left me 5 re- turned to the U. S. by sea, one died there in 1834 and two re- mained as settlers. In the Spring u[ 1833 I commenced my return to the states with the two remaining n\en. When I reached the mouth of the Yellowstone one left me to remain with some of the trappers until I should return. V\'ith the other I reached the States, and soon after fitted out a vessel for the Columbia, and on the yth Feb. 1834 left Boston for St. lyouis where I organised a party of 70 men for tlie overland trip arriving at the head waters 3! 2] AND STATlvMKNT 255 of the tnake or Lewis ri^-cr in Julv 1S3], and on ihe 15th of that month commenced to build Fort Hall, and after placin.^^ it in a defensive condition left it on the ytli Aug:iist followi;:;;' ibr the month of the Columbia. On the 15th of '^ept. I reached Oak Point 75 miles from its mouth where I met m^- vessel just arrived after a voyage of 8 vi montlis, l^nving bee'.i struck by lightening at sea and so injured as to be obH:2;ed to go iv.to Valparaiso to re- pair. This vessel was fitted for the salmon fishing of that season. Her late arrival caused me to detain her until the following year. During the wdnter of 1835 this vessel went to the Sandwich Islands with timber & card returned in the Spring wilh cat lie sheep goats & hogs which were placed on Wappatoo Island where in the mean time I had built an establishmentcalled Fort Wiliian on the south- wcs*.erly side of tlie island and about 8 miles from the H. B. Go's pest of Vancouver. At this posl we grazed all the animals ob- tained from the Islands California and from the Indians, planted wheat corn potatoes peas beans turnips, grafted & planted ap- ples and other fruits, "Duilt dwelling house and shops for v\^orking iron and wood, and in fact made a permanent location which has never been abandoned. I made this my personal resider.ce dur- ing the Winter and Summer of 1835. In the autumr; of that year I proceeded to Fort Hall with supplies, having sent some previous to that time. During the winter of 1836 I resided at my post of Fort Hail,' and in the Spring of that year returned to Fort William of Wappatoo Island whence I carried more sup- plies to Fort Hall arrivirig there the 18th June, and on the 25th left I'^r the U. S. by way of Taos and the Arkansas river and ar- rived home early in the Autumn of 1836. The comm.ercial dis- tress of that time precluded the further prosecution, of our er.ter- prise, that so far had yielded little but misfortunes. It remained only to close the active business which w^as done 03/ paying every debt, arid returning every man who desired, to the place w'hen.ce he was taken, an.d disposing of the property to the best advantage. All the property in the interior including Fort Hall was sold, it being necessary in order to retain that pust, to keep up a garrison for its defense against the Indians, and to forward annual supplies to it, an operation at that time bevoiid our means. Fort William at Wappatoo Island requiring nothing of that kind was retained, and the gentleman then in charge Mr C. M. W^alker was directed to lease it to some trusty person for 15 3^03 rs unless sooner reclaim- ed. Nothing having been heard from Mr V/alker for a long time 'I sent a request to John McLaughlin Esq. for the same purpose atid also to have the island entered in my name at the land office established by the provisional government. That the original en- terprise contemplated a permanent occupation is clearly shown by the instructions to the master of the brig Capt Lambert When I arrived on the lower Columbia in the Autumn of 1832 as her[e]in before stated there were no Americans there nor any one having 256 LETTER [313 an American feeling. So far as I know there had not been since Mr. Astor retired from the coast. Of the 1 1 men which I had then with me three remained until I again arrived in the Autumn of 1834 and 19 of those who then accompanied me including the missionaries remained permanently in the countr3\ Nath 1 J. Wyeth INDEX. Abbot, Wiggin, letter to him as an em- ployee of the author, 70)93; placed in charge of animals purchased for second expedition, 98; letter to containing terms of contract with author, 99; 130, 131, 178, 183-4 Allison and Anderson, lettei to giving directions for shipment of goods purchased at Louisville, 121 American Fur Company (Dripps and Fontenelle) 69, 74, 158, 159, 204-5. 210-8 Ashley, William H., 38, account of his earlier operations as a fur-trader, 73-4 Attack, Indians, 158, 159-60 B Bache, Theo., letter to, in which plan of first expedition is given in fullest detail 20-21; Leonard Wyeth instructed to write to him, 46; let- ter to containing instructions for joining the expedition, 46-7 Baker, J. and Son, 38; arrangement to send goods home in their vessels, 4S;their vessel, the Sultana, bound to the Columbia, 56; letter to des- cribing conditions of Salmon trade in the Columbia and giving list of British posts, 60-1; letter to with information about commercial op- perations b}^ the English on the North Pacific coast, 80; letter to containing statistics on the fur- trader at St. Louis, 84 Ball, John, letter to giving information about joining the first expedition 36-7; for meeting the expedition at Baltimore, 47; about trunks and letters forwarded from Boston to him at Vancouver, 68; letters bj' 90; communication with, 115 Baptiste, 59, 128, 136, 218-9 Bell, letters of So-i; analysis of letters written to S. K. Livermore, 85-9 Bernie, Jas., 177-8 Blackfeet Indians, 190-202 Black Hills, 156-7 Boardman, William H., 38: letter to containing list of English posts and vessels, 61; letter to forward- ing letters from Capt. McNeil, 73; letter to containing report of the commerical operations of the Eng- lish on the north Pacific coast, 80 Bonneville, letter to containing propo- sition for mutual hunt, 58-60; the proposed hunt, 65; his operations as a fur-trader, 69-70; his opera- tions, 73-4; letter to making ar- rangements to meet Indians in trade, 141-2, 202-5, 225-6, 231 Bradenburgh[?], Jno., letter to about goods in transit at Baltimore, 116; letter to giving directions for for- warding letters, 120 Bridger, 74 Brown, James, proposed business rela- tions with, 47; letter to arranging for funds, 50; letter to with same purpose, 123; a letter of friendship mainly, 136; letter to giving sum- mary of state of affairs at its date, 144; a letter of friendship, 150-1 British Posts, (see English posts and vessels) Bugles, 25, 31 Can, A. & G. W. and Co., (Ken) 120, 124 Cass, Lewis, 17; letter to asking what as- surance can be given to gentlemen and servants of Hudson's Bay Co. in making a settlement on the Wil- lamette River, 92-3 Cerri (Cerry), 68, 73, 200 "Chimney or Elk Brick," 155,223 Clark's river (Flathead), 189-95 Colonization Society, i, 3, 5, 6, 8, 9, 25S INDEX [315 II, 12, 17-18 Columbia, 150, 173-6 Colorado, 157-9 Contract, failure to fulfil, 134-5 Cripps, George, letter to in reply to proposal to join expedition, 27 D Dana, Samuel L., letter of thanks to for review ofjno. Wyeth's book, 104 Davenport and Byron, letter to plac- ing order for traps, 39-40; letter to concerning financial transaction, 41; letter to placing an order for goods for Indian trade, 42; letters relating to settlement of trans- actions, 45 Desertions, 157 Devan, David, used as a reference, 15 Distances, table of, 219 Douglas, David, 180-1 Rnglish occupation of the Pacific- Northwest, 78 Rnglish posts and vessels, 61, 80 Ivrmatinger, (Hermatinger) Francis. 56 letter to describing conditions at rendezvous on Green River in 1833, 69, 79; letter of friendship to, 140-r, 180-1, 200 Expeditions, First, statements regard- ing, 2; inquiries regarding, 3; inde- pendent expedition resolved upon and plan explained, 4; pla" ex- plained to Charles Wyeth, 6-8; ex- plained to Leonard Wyeth, 9-10 Everett, Hon. Edward, letter to offer- ing services in obtaining informa- tion for government— proposed ex- pedition also explained, 12-13; let- ter to having reference to matter broached in former letter, con- taining inquiry about license needed for the' expedition, also some comment on the accompany- ing petition from the colonization society, 17-18 Farm, 144, H5 Fenno, James \V., letter to reporting conditions confronting the author in the Rocky mountains, second expedition, 133-4; letter to giving some details in progress of expedi- tion and referring to matters of umtual interest, 143-4 Fitzpatric, Thomas (Fitzpatric, Sublet- te and Bridger) (Fitzpatric and Co.), 74; letter to announcing ap- proach to rendezvous with goods according to contract and submit- ting proposition for additional transactions, 132-3; transactions arising out of previous contract, 138-9, 140 (See also Rocky Moun- tain Fur Co.) Finlayson (Finlinson), Duncan, 79,180 Flathead Indians, 191-4 Fort, 134, 135, 137, 142, 144, 145, 146, 147 Fort Hall, 227, See Fort Fort of Vancouver, 176-7 Frapp, See Rocky Mountain Fur Company Fur, collections made by different companies, 69-70 Q Gant and Blackwell, 156 Gardner, Robt. H., letter to contain- ing inquiries for information need- ed in carrying on the salmon in- dustry, 29; letter to returning thanks for information received and containing further inquiries, 34 Grant & Stone, 114, 121, 123-4, notice of draft on, 129, 130 Great Salt Lake, 8, 144, 162 H Hall, Henrv (See Tucker & Williams & Half). Hallet, letter to pertaining to authen- ticity of statements in communica- tion to Hallet's paper, 104-5 Hamilton, Samuel S., letter to con- taining inquiries concerning laws regulating Indian trade, 6 Harrison, Gen'l., letter to enclosing note which a son of Gen'l H. had entrusted to Wyeth, 72 Harrison, Doct., 106, 130 Hermatinger, F., (See Ermatinger) Heron, James, (Herron) (Horon) 56, 79 Hughs, I. P., letter to outlining plan of expedition, emphasizing wri- ter's personal interests at stake, 26- 7 Hudson's Bay Company, 53, 56, 55,63; negotiations with them through Leonard Jarvis, 67; proposed con- tract with, 72, 77-8, 92-3, 125, 163, 176-7 3i6] INDEX 259 I Ice business, 10, 34, 83, 108, iii, 118, 133. 143- 150 Independence Rock, 157, 224 Indian boys, 59, 105 (See Baptiste) J Jackson, 38, 74 Jarvis, Leonard, assistance offered by him to Wyeth, 7, 8, 10; letter to containing request for assistance and giving considerations affect- ing the advisability of the enter- prise undertaken by the author, 31-3; fragment of letter to express- ing thanks for favors, 52; frag- ment of letter to outlining plans for returning, 55; letter to stating conditions of carr3-ing on fur trade and requesting that Jarvis conduct negotiations with the H. B. Co., 66-7; letter to asking for advice in the treatment of certain calumnies, 81-2; letter to in which author vindicates himself against asper- sions in Bell's letters and John Wyeth's book, 85-9; letter to re- porting adverse conditions in his affairs, 135; letter to in which the author reviews his situation, 151-2 Jervais, 74 Journal, proposed disposition of 48, 97 K "Kanackas" (Hawaiians), 234, 240, 250 Kansas river, 22 Kelley, Hall J., addressed as general agent for the Oregon Colonization Society, i; petition to congress, 17-8; his means for moving and likelhood of his going, 30; proba- bility of his party starting, 36; let- ter to in which Wyeth gives reas- ons for not going with him, 39; letter to in which Wyeth declares his resolution to proceed without delaying for Kelley's colony, 43; letter to expressing willingness to take charge of some emigrants, 50; letter to indicating disposition towards colonizing the Columbia region, 51; 90, 250 Ken (See Can) Laidlow, 79 Lambert, Capt., 61, 150, 151, 233 Lansing, E. E., letter to implying that he contemplates joining the first expedition, 45; Leonard Wyeth instructed to write to him, 46 Laramie fork, 156, 223 Latitude and longitude, process of cal- culating, 101-2 Lawrence, Josiah & Co., agent for Wyeth at Cincinnati, 112, 116, 121 Lee, Jason, letter to giving date of leaving for St. Louis, iii, 128,227, 231 Livermore, Solmon K., letter to per- taining to his son's wish to join the first expedition, 16, 17; letter to in which the matter of his son's joining the expedition is discuss- ed, 25-6; letter to on the right to trade with Indians in the Oregon country, 30-1; letter to relative to history and prospects of tiade in the Oregon country, 38-9, 80, 81, S5-9, 90 Livermore, Thomas, (See in nboveref erences) M McFarlan, Leonard Wyeth instructed to write to him, 46 McGill, (See Von Phull & McGill) McKay, 180, 227, 231, 251 McKenzie, 79 McLoughlin, Dr.John, his hospitality 53;letter to expressing obligations to Ermatinger and offering serv- ices,68,79, 140, 176-7, 181,233,251, 253 McNeil, Capt., 61 March, E. E., letter to received from Leonard Wyeth, 46; to be entrust- ed with papers, 67 Marshall, Josiah, 38 Men for expedition, 94-5, 103 Men of the first expedition, 178 Metcalf, E. W., letter to, 115, 137 Missionaries, (See Jason Lee) N Neil, Col. J. W., letter to containing inquiries regarding the contem- plated expedition of the Oregon Colonization Society, 3 News, given to Ermatinger. 69 Noah, Cousin, letter to pertaining to communication with Ball, 105 Note, protested, 70, 71 Norris &Co., letter to containing in- quiries for traps, 33 26o INDEX [3r Vudd, 7q Nuttall, Thomas, letter to announcing that a package of plants has been sent him, 67; letter to apprising him of Wyeth's movements to St. Louis 103; letter to concerning outfit, 106-7, 114. 126, 137, o Oregon Colonization Society, (See Colonization Society] Outfits, 13, 17. 21, 27-8, 2,3, 42, 59. 89. 94, 95 Pambrun, 79, 173. 184-5. 232 Parents, letters to giving resumes of experiences, 53, 135, 145, letter to announcing date ot return, 103 4 Payette, 141, 200 Perkins, 38, Perry, Rev. Clark, letter to discussing religious convictions and freedom of opinion, 43-4; letters to pertain- ing to calumnies, 80-1, 89-90; bid- ding goodbye, 104 Petition ,to congress by Mr. Kelleyand those who proposed to go in the first expedition, 17-8 Pickering, Jno., letter to referring to a point about the language of Indians, 108 Pilcher, 38" Platte river, 153-4, 222-3 Proposition to Geo. Sim[p]son, Gov- ernor of Hudson's Bay Company, York Factory, 5^ Ray, 25 Rendezvous, 159 Richardson, note placed for him at the mouth of a fork of the river Des- chutes, 147-8, 235, 241, 246, 250 Rockhill, Thomas C, letter to, 93 Rocky Mountain Fur Company (Sub- lette & Fitzpatric), 72, 74, 77, 156- 7, 159, 171, 204-5, 225 Routes, inquiries about, from Balti- more to St. Louis via Pittsburg, 4; from New York to Pittsburg via BuflFaloe and Lrie, 5; determina- tion to go by packet to Baltimore, 10; route contemplated from vSt. Louis across the continent, 8; 20 Salmon fisheries, 60-r, 144, 145, 168 Samuel, E. M. letters to instructing him about outfits for second ex- pedition, 70, 83, 90-1 94-5, 98-9, 100, 102-3, 108, 123, 124, 127, 129, 1 30- 1 Samuel & More (See E. M. Samuel) Seaton, Alfred, letter to stating terms at which furs would be transport- ed from Green River via Columbia river to Boston, 100, 124 Serrey, (See Cerri) Simpson, (Simson) Geo., letter to containing proposal to supply goods, 56-8, proposal to deliver furs to, 72; notice to that negotiations are at an end, 84 Sinclair, John, letter to containing in- structions for joining the expedi- tion at Baltimore, 47 Smith, IraG., 119-20; letters of intro- duction, 122 Smith, Jedediah, 38, 74, iSr Spokan river, 186-7 Stewart. Capt. William, copies of let- ters introducing him with letter enclosing them, 142, 147, 205, 227, 231, 232, 250 Stevens, Capt., 206 Story telling, 170 Sublette, M. G., letter to referring to a contract, 71-2, 83; letter to per- taining to meeting in New York, 95; letter to about selection of goods, 96; letter to giving basis of proposed business relations, 97-8; 109, 132; letter to complaining of breach of contract, 140 (See also Rocky Mountain Fur Co.) Sublette, William L., 69, 70, 71,74,83; letters to announcing movements, 105-6, 109, no, 115, 116, 213 Sultana, Bg., 56 Thing, Captain Joseph, 106; letter to containing instructions regarding business left in his charge, 107; letter to containing directions about shipment of rifles and knives 1 13; letters to concerning goods to be brought on, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 121, 122, 232, 235, 251 Tobacco culture, inquiries relating to, 3-4; man desired competent for conducting, 6; seed ordered put up for the expedition, and man again requested, 24 Touro, Judah, letter to requesting that he get a note discounted, 33-4; 3i8] inde;x 261 note not forwarded, 49 Townsend, 128, 137 Trumbull, 79 Tucker & Williams (Henry Hall & Tucker & Williams) (Tucker & Williams & Henry Hall), exami- nation of accounts with, 47-8; let- ter to reporting business aspects of trip out, 54; letter to giving business outlook, 63; letter to ap- prising them of author's arrival, 71; letter to setting forth in detail history and conditions of fur and salmon trade, upon which propos- ed plan of operations is based, 73- 8; letter to containing proposed form of contract, 82; letter to con- cerning items of outfit, 94, 95; let- ter to regarding acceptance of traps, 107-8; letter to on matters of traps and accounts, 108-9; letter giving notice of draft drawn on them, 109; letter to enclosing one from Samuel & More giving view of state of affairs with them, no; letter to bearing upon financial aspects of business,iio-ii;letter to containing statement of transac- tions, 1 1 1-2; letter to detailing financial arrangements for expens- es of expedition, 114; letter to con- taining statement of transactions, 1 16-7; letter to about Santa Fe trade, 119-20; letter to on matter of finances, 121; letter to detailing transactions since the last, 124-5; letters to giving statements of transactions and of newly develop- ed conditions, 129-32; letter to de- tailing condition of business af- fairs up to its date, 138-9 Tudor, Frederic, assistance from, 32; shipping of ice, 34; his agieement towards securing cargo and vessel for Wyeth, 49; present made by to Wyeth, 49; letter descriptive of Oregon country probably to Tu- dor, 53; used as a reference, 61; letter to giving plans after return from the Oregon country to the Rock}' Mountain region with some expression of personal feelings, 62- 3;letter to apprising him of Wj'eth's arrival in Missouri, 71, 82, 83, 97 108, 1 1 1 ;letter to reviewing outlook, 1 18-9; letter to reporting adverse conditions, 134; letter to giving report of affairs of business up to date, 142-3; letter to reporting prospective failure, 149-50 Vessel, 143, 144, 145 Von Phul(l) & McGill (Von Pool)(Mc- Gil), 67, draft sent to upon Mr. Cerri, 68; letter to enclosing an- nouncement to M. G. Sublette, 83. 90; letter to of the nature of an or- der, 91; statement to 103; no; an- nounced as Wyeth's headquarters at St. Louis, III, 122, 123; letter to making remittances 138; letter to enclosing remittance, 140 w W^alla Walla, 171-3, 184-5 Waterhouse, Benjamin, author of Jno. Wyeth's book, 104 W^eld, letter to containing review of experiences, 148-9 Whiting, Seymour, letter to in reply to inquiries made with a view of joining the expedition, details of plan of expedition given, 29-30; letter to in which proposition for joining is declined for want of means, 42-3 W^ife, letters to, 117-8, 128, 135, 144; letter to announcing disasters and date of return, 154 Wild (Wildes), Captain Dixie, letter to submitting terras for having a vessel dispatched to Oregon, 14-5; letter to discussing items of pro- position for furnishing vessel for the expedition, 20-24, 38 Willamette river and valley, 178-9 Woodman, 17S, 183, 191 Worthington, Jas., letter to making an offer to furnish goods for fur trade, 91 Wyeth, Charles, letter to containing statement of original plan, i; let- ter to requesting information about tobacco culture and giving statement of revised plans, 3-4; letter to giving first details con- cerning proposed independent ex- pedition, 6-8; letter to referring to details of financial relations be- tween him and writer and to pro- gress of negotiations for vessel, 15- 6; letter to relating to plans for fitting out at St. Louis, 24; letter to requesting aid in making new arrangements for a vessel, 28-9;let- ter to relating to assistance need- ed to secure an arrangement for a vessel and cargo, 34-6; note not forwarded, 49; letter to advising 262 INDEX [319 of proposed draft, 50; letter con- cerning a letter of credit, 51; let- ter to descriptive of writer's con- dition at Vancouver, 55; letter to referring to personal situation and matters of business, 65-6; letter to announcing completion of ar- rangements for second expedition, 85; letter to giving stage of pre- paration for second expedition, 91- 2; letter to concerning finances of second expedition, 96; letter to concerning instructions to Abbot, 100; letter to designating Captain Thing as second in command of expedition, 107; letter to announc- ing his coming, 109; letter to de- tailing proposed movements, 137; letter to giving summary of ex- periences up to date, 146; letter to announcing failure of salmon fish- ing, sickness and plans for return, 152-3 , . , Wyeth, Jacob, his brother .- athaniel, applies for a position for him in the proposed expedition by the Oregon Colonization Society, i; advised regarding the proposed expedition, 2; plan of independ- ent expedition submitted to him, 5; letter co umenting upon chang- es in plans of Colonization Society and explaining arrangements of the joint stock concern, 11-2; let- ter to giving summary of previous letter, i3-4;letter to touching up- on points of finance, 21; letter to apprising him of date of forming camp and sailing for Baltimore, 42; reference to his turning back, 53; letter to referring to accounts with writer, 79; letter to announcing date of expected arrival at St. Louis, in; letter to, 125-6, 145; See also Parents, 145 Wyeth, Jonas, 123 Wyeth, John, 80-1; his book examined, S5-9 . . Wyeth, Leonard, letter to containing inquiries concerning route from New York to Pittsburg via Buffalo and Erie, 5;letter to giving chang- es in plans of Colonization Society that are unsatisfactory to writer and statement of his revised plans, 9-10; letter to requesting names and addresses of persons living in St. Louis, also referring to situa- tion £is to funds and vessels need- ed, iS; letter to referring to same matters and aid proffered by oth- ers, 19; letter to referring traps and guns desired, and goods need- ed for Indian trade, also to new conditions for securing vessel, 27- 8; letter to regarding pledge to se- cure vessel and cargo to meet first expedition, 37-8; letter to relating to agreement with Plall, Williams & Tucker, 41; financial matters, 45; letter to enclosing copy of agreement with Tucker, Williams & Hall and requesting that it be endorsed with guarantee and for- warded to Charles Wyeth, 46; let- ter to referring to men for the ex- pedition that were being engaged i)v Leonard Wyeth, 46; letter to arranging for funds, 51; letter to recounting experiences on | trip out and giving plans for return, 54; letter to giving plans, also le- ferences to characteristics of west- ern associates, 64-5; letters to, 72- 3» 78, 83; letter to pertaining to transactions of Abbot, 93-4; letter to pertaining to IM. C>. Sublette's business at New York, 96; letter to pertaining to relations with Sublettes, 103; letter to introduc- ing E. M.Samuel, 113; letter to introducing Col. Geo. W. Jones, 127; letter to det-iillng pioposed movements, 137-8; letter to giving summary of exper'ences up to its date, 145-6; letter to announcing failure of salmon fishing, and re- porting sickness and plans for re- turn, 153 Wyeth, Nathaniel, his estimate of the nature of his undertaking, 49;per- sonal feelings expressed to Fred- eric Tudor, 62-3; physical and mental condition, 64. 65, 91-2,128, 136, 243; claim, 253-4; his state- ment of facts, 254-6 Young, 250 wM I ¥ 3i^^0 LBJa'07 SOURCES OF THE HISTORY OF OREGON Vohime I Parts 3 to 6 inclusive THE CORRESPONDENCE AND JOURNALS OF CAPTAIN NATHANIEL J. WYETH 1831-6 A Record of Two Expeditions for the Occupation of the Oregon Country, with Haps, introduction and index CONTINUATION OF THE CONTRIBUTIONS OP THE DEPARTMENT OF ECONOMICS AND HISTORY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF OREGON BY THE OREGON HISTORICAI, SOCIETY Edited by F. G. Young, Secretary Oregon Historical Society PRICE ONE DOLLAR University Press Eugene, Ore. 1899 SOURCES OF THE HISTORY OF OREGON VOLUME I No. I JOURNAI, OF MKDOREM CrAWFORD An account of his trip across the plains in 1842 with the first considerable band of Oregon Pioneers. Prick 25 Cknts No. 2 The Indian Council at Walla Walla, May AND June, 1855 By Col. Lawrence Kip, U. S. A. A Journal. Price 25 Cents Nos. 3 to 6 inclusive The Correspondence and Journals of Captain Nathaniel J. Wyeth, 183 1-6 A Record of two Expeditions for the Occupation of the Oregon Country. With Maps, Introduction and Index. Price One Dollar In Preparation SEMI-CENTENNIAL HISTORY OF OREGON Address orders for publications to GEORGE H. HIMES, Assistant Secretary of the Oregon Historical Society , City Hall, Portland, Oregon The Oregon Historical Society Through the wise and beneficent action of the twentieth I^egislative Assembly of Oregon in providing financial support for the newly organized Oregon Historical Society the work of col- lecting and preserving the sources of the history of Oregon and of cultivating the historical spirit among its people was placed in position to be vigorously prosecuted. The appropriation made by the legislature is being supplemented by the membership fees from representative citizens of the state. The collections of manuscripts and all other sources of histori- cal evidence that are being secured from day to day are deposited in some rooms of the City Hall of Portland. This dispositorj' was courteously placed at the disposal of the society by the officials of that city. The society is the direct outcome of work begun in a tenta- tive and humblest way by the department of economics and his- torj' of the State University. It has not yet become possible to broaden the scope of the Society's efforts so as to include all the lines essential to the normal functions of a state historical society. The Society, however, is grovdng rapidly. With the measure of support from its natural patrons that confidence in it should elicit it will become equal to the opportunities lying within its magnificent field — the lives and achievements of the makers of Oregon. OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY, H. W. Scott, President, C. B. BkIvLINGER, Vice-President, L. B. Cox, Treasurer y F. G, Young, Secretary, Gko. H. Himes, Assistant-Secretary, Portland Portland Portland Eugene Portland