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Cocoa and Chocolate 
 
 A short history of their 
 production and use 
 
 ErtolscH ^tttton 
 
 With numerous illustrations of the Cocoa Tree and its products ; and of Walter 
 
 Baker & Co.'s manufactory, the oldest and largest establishment 
 
 of its kind on this continent 
 
 DORCHESTER, MASS. 
 
 Walter Baker & Co. Limited 
 
 M 
 
 1907 
 
o^ 
 
 \ 
 
 .b 
 
 
 LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
 Two Cooies Received 
 fylAV 28 \90r 
 ^ Copynsht Entry 
 
 CLASS/O. KXC, No. 
 
 /7 ^ ^ Of 
 
 COPY B. 
 
 Copyright, rgoj. 
 By Walter Baker & Company Ltd. 
 
 The Barta Press, Boston 
 
PREFATORY NOTE. 
 
 THIS publication is made up in part of original matter and in part 
 of matter reprinted from three of our previous publications, now 
 out of print, namely : " Cocoa and Chocolate : A Short History 
 of Their Production and Use," — a i2mo of 152 pages, published in 
 1886: "The Chocolate Plant and Its Products," — a small 4to of 40 
 pages, published in 1891 ; and "Cocoa and Chocolate: A Short His- 
 tory of Their Production and Use," a quarto of 72 pages, first printed 
 in 1899 and reprinted in 1901 and 1904. Copies of them can be found 
 in many of the public and school libraries in the United States. 
 
 We have included in this work some new views of our mills and 
 workrooms, and also some engravings from photographs taken in the 
 West Indies and in Ceylon, showing the present methods of gathering 
 and curing the fruit of the cocoa tree. 
 
 As even the standard dictionaries fail to give the exact meanings of 
 the words " cocoa" and " chocolate," we give here an accurate defini- 
 tion of those terms : — 
 
 Cocoa. — The commercial name given (i) to the seeds of the small tropical 
 tree known to botanists as Theobroma Cacao: (2) to the cracked or coarsely 
 ground product of the roasted seeds, sometimes designated more particularly as 
 "cocoa nibs," or "cracked cocoa " ; (3) to the finely pulverized product of the 
 roasted seeds from which a portion of the fat has been removed, sometimes des- 
 ignated as " breakfast cocoa " or " powdered cocoa." 
 
 Chocolate. — (i ) The solid or plastic mass produced by grinding to fineness 
 the kernel of the roasted seeds of Theobroma Cacao without removing any of the 
 fat, sometimes called " plain chocolate " or » bitter chocolate " ; (2) the same 
 product to which have been added sugar and various flavoring substances, some- 
 times known as " sweet chocolate " or " vanilla chocolate." 
 
 WALTER BAKER & CO. Ltd. 
 
REGISTERED U. S. PATENT OFFICE. 
 
 WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD. 
 
 \Copied from Liotard^s famous pahiti)!g of'''' La Belle Chocolatilre^^ 
 iti file Dresden Gallery^ 
 
COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 I. 
 
 PRODUCTION AND CONSUMPTION. 
 
 DI'RIXG the last twenty-five years the consumption of cocoa in 
 various forms has increased to an extraordinary extent not 
 only in this country, but in the United Kingdom and Germany 
 — countries in which the greatest progress is being made in the science 
 of nutrition, and in the inventions which have done so much to cheapen 
 the cost and improve the quality of articles of food. This increase in 
 consumption is due to several causes, among the most prominent of 
 which are (i) a reduction in the retail price, bringing it within the 
 means of the poorer classes; (2) a more general recognition of the 
 value of cocoa as an article of food, and (3) improvements in methods 
 of preparation, by which it is adapted to the wants of the different 
 classes of consumers. 
 
 There is no doubt that, if it had not been for the monopoly of the 
 production which Spain long possessed, and which kept the price, on 
 its introduction into England, at a point where only the rich could 
 afford to buy it, cocoa would have come into as general use there as it 
 did in Spain, and would, perhaps, have been received with more favor 
 than tea or coffee, which were introduced about the same time. 
 
 It appears that, in the time of Charles II., the price of the best 
 chocolate (v-ery crude undoubtedly, as compared with the present 
 manufactures) was 6s. 8d. a pound, which, if we take into account the 
 greater purchasing power of money at that time, would be equal to at 
 least $5-oo a pound at this time for a very coarse article. 
 
 Humboldt estimated the consumption of cocoa in Europe, in 1806, 
 as 23,000,000 pounds per annum, of which from 6,000,000 to 9,000,000 
 were supposed to be consumed in Spain. The estimated consumption 
 in Europe at the present time is over 170,000,000 pounds. 
 
8 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 A recent estimate of the total amount of ci-ude cocoa exported from 
 the tropical regions in which it is grown, based partly on official figures 
 and partly on expert estimates, is about 300,000,000 pounds per annum. 
 In the report of the U. S. Bureau of Statistics for the fiscal year 
 ending June 30, 1906, the principal importations of crude cocoa into 
 this country are given as follows: British West Indies, 25,933,087 
 pounds; other West Indies, 10,389,576; Brazil, 12,064,302; other 
 South American countries of which Ecuador, next to Brazil, furnishes 
 the largest supply, 18,028,265 ; Europe, principally from the Portu- 
 guese island of San Thome on the West Coast of Africa, 12,794,055. 
 
 In the United Kingdom the amount consumed in 183 1 was onl}- ]■{ of 
 an ounce for each inhabitant. In 1902 it had risen to about 17 ounces; 
 that is, about 45,500,000 pounds. The percentage of increase since 
 i860 has been much greater than that of tea or coffee. In that year 
 the consumption of tea was 2.67 pounds for each inhabitant; of coffee, 
 1.23 pounds; of cocoa, 2 ounces. In 1903, the consumption of tea 
 was 6.03 pounds for each inhabitant; of coffee, only 12 ounces: of 
 cocoa, about 17 ovmces. It appears from this that in Great Britain and 
 Ireland cocoa is actually taking the place of coffee, the per capita use 
 of the former having increased about 750 per cent., while the per 
 capita use of the latter has greatly decreased. 
 
 In the United States the increased consumption of cocoa in recent 
 years has been even more striking. The amount retained for home 
 consumption in i860 was only 1,181,054 pounds, or % of an ounce for 
 each inhabitant. The average annual consumption for the three years, 
 1904, 1905, and 1906, amounted to 73,034,272 pounds. ^ This shows 
 an increase greatly in excess of the increase during the same 
 period in the consumption of coffee and tea. In i860, the consump- 
 tion of coffee per capita was 5.79 pounds; in 1906 it was about 11 
 pounds. The consumption of tea in i860 was about 135^ ounces per 
 capita; in 1903 it was about 17 ounces. The consumption of cocoa 
 
 ' These are the Custom House returns for tlie year ending June 30. 
 
PRODUCTION AND CONSUMPTION. g 
 
 had risen during the same period from %of an ounce to over 14 ounces 
 per capita. 
 
 Statements in the press and in the reports of the Pure Food Commis- 
 sioners show that there are on the market at this time many cocoas and 
 chocolates which have been treated with adulterants, more or less in- 
 jurious to health, for the purpose of cheapening the cost and giving a 
 ficdtious appearance of richness and strength. The safest course for 
 consumers, therefore, is to buy goods bearing the name and trade- 
 mark of a well-known and reputable manufacturer, and to make sure 
 by a careful examination that they are getting what they order. 
 
 Walter Baker & Co.'s cocoa and chocolate preparations are abso- 
 lutely pure, free from coloring matter, chemical solvents, or adulter- 
 ants of any kind, and are therefore in full conformity to the require- 
 ments of all Nadonal and State Pure Food Laws. 
 
 Wai.ter Baker & Co.'s Registered Guarantee Under 
 National Pure Food Laws Is Serial No. 90. 
 
II. 
 
 THE COCOA TREE AND ITS FRUIT. 
 
 (" Thcobronia Cacao. ""^ 
 
 THE term " cocoa " is a corruption of " cacao," but is almost uni- 
 versally used in English-speaking countries. The cacao tree 
 belongs to the natural order of Sterculiace«, — a family of about 
 41 genera and 521 species, inhabiting the warmer regions of the world. 
 None of them grow naturally in our climate or in Europe, and, except- 
 
 ing the little yellow-flowered Mahernia, they are very seldom seen in 
 our conservatories. 
 
 The tirst references to the tree and its products are found in the 
 accounts of the explorers and conquerors who followed Columbus. 
 Their descriptions are remarkably accurate in all essential particulars. 
 One of the earliest, if not indeed the very earliest, delineations of the 
 tree is in a rare volume by Bontekoe.^ The engraving, which is here 
 
 • The figure in the left of the foreground is said by Bontekoe to represent tlie native method of procuring fire by 
 rapidly twirling a pointed stick in a groove of a piece of wood placed on the ground. 
 
THE COCOA TREE AND ITS FRUIT 
 
 II 
 
 reproduced, represents it with its comparatively large fruits or pods 
 borne on the main stem. This might be thought at first to be an error 
 of the artist, but it is in fact a rude expression of one of the most 
 remarkable peculiarities of the plant. As will be shown presently, 
 when a fuller description is given, the fruits are, as a rule, formed 
 on the older parts. The engraving shows that the cocoa tree is shel- 
 tered by a larger tree of some other kind near it. This practise of 
 planting a sheltering tree to shade the young cocoa tree for a time is 
 
 still kept up wherever the plant is 
 successfully cultivated. It is cer- 
 tainly interesting that this point in 
 cultivation, which might easily have 
 been thought to be accidental or 
 local, was delineated more than 
 three centuries ago. 
 
 The seeds of the tree are borne 
 in pods, which are irregular and 
 angular in shape, much like some 
 forms of cucumbers, but more 
 pointed at the lower extremity, and 
 more distinctly grooved. These 
 pods measure in length nine inches 
 to a foot, or even more, and about half as much in diameter. 
 The color, when young, is green, becoming later dark yellow or 
 yellowish brown. The rind is thick and tough. The pods are 
 filled with closely packed "beans," or seeds, embedded in a 
 mass of cellular tissue, sometimes of pleasant subacid taste. The 
 seeds are about as large as ordinary almonds, whitish when 
 fresh, and of a disagreeable bitter taste. When dried they become 
 brown. 
 
 The fruits are about four months in ripening ; but they appear and 
 mature the whole year through. In point of fact, however, there are 
 
 THE COCOA TREE. 
 
12 
 
 COCOA AAD CHOCOLATE. 
 
 chief harvests, usually in early spring, but this is different for different 
 countries. 
 
 As a great many erroneous statements have been made in regard to 
 the average yield of cocoa plantations, from which we draw^ our supplies 
 of crude cocoa, we have been at some pains to procure accurate infor- 
 mation on that point for a period of five years. 
 
 Taking twelve cocoa estates in Surinam, containing 1,354 '''^'^" 
 tares, or 3,385 acres, the crop during the years 1897 to 1901 
 inclusive amounted to 3,672,283 kilos, or 8,079,023 pounds. The 
 crops varied for the different years from 1,263,426 pounds to 2,174,639 
 pounds. The average yield per acre per year was 477-''M(tu pounds. 
 On the basis of 200 trees to the acre this would show an average yield 
 of about 2V8 pounds to a tree. By actual count of seven pods taken with- 
 out selection it was found 
 that the average number of 
 beans in a pod was 38. 
 In an essa}' (1902) on 
 the cultivation of cacao, 
 for the use of planters in 
 the Philippines, Mr. Wm. 
 S. Lyon, in charge of 
 Seed and Plant Introduc- 
 tion, says : 
 
 " In Camerouns, Dr. 
 Preuss, a close and well- 
 trained observer, gives 
 the mean annual yield of 
 trees of full bearing age 
 at 4.4 pounds. 
 
 " Mr. Rousselot places 
 the yield on the French 
 Congo at the same figure. 
 
 COCOA pons. 
 
THE COCOA TREE AND ITS FRUIT. 
 
 13 
 
 In the Caroline Islands it reaches 5 pounds, and in Surinam, according 
 to M. Nichols, the average at maturity is 61/0 pounds. ^ In Mindanao, 
 I have been told, but do not vouch for the report, of more than ten 
 'catties' (about i2i/^> pounds) taken in one year from a single tree: 
 and, as there are well-authenticated instances of record, of single trees 
 
 PODS AND LEAVES. 
 
 having yielded as much as 30 pounds, I am not prepared to altogether 
 discredit the Mindanao story." 
 
 The following, statements in relation to the cultivation of the cocoa 
 tree and the curing of the fruit are taken from a report made in 1899 
 by the United States Consul General at Guayaquil, who obtained his 
 information largely from the Secretar}^ of the Guayaquil Chamber 
 of Commerce. 
 
 * This statement does not accord with the best information we have been able to obtain, namely, that the average 
 yield does not exceed 2}^ pounds to a tree. 
 
H 
 
 COCOA AXD CHOCOLATE. 
 
 " Cacao is planted from fresh seed. Four or five are put in 
 
 each hole, which are 5 3'ards apart, in 
 Formerly they were 2 or 3 yards apart, 
 perience has shown that this method does 
 not give the plant sufficient air, light, and 
 nourishment. 
 
 "The preparation of land for a 
 cacao plantation consists in clearing 
 small trees, underbrush, and weeds, 
 the large umbrageous trees. The 
 the trees is planted in corn, arrow- 
 the latter in abundance, with the 
 affording shade to the delicate 
 ducing an immediate income, 
 until the fifth or sixth year, 
 reached a height of 8 or 
 bear fruit, and enters 
 it3\ Then auxiliary 
 
 rows, 
 ^ut ex- 
 
 quick- 
 the 
 
 it of 
 but leaving 
 space between 
 root, or plantains, 
 double object of 
 cacao plant and pro- 
 These crops are grown 
 when the cacao has 
 9 feet, commences to 
 upon a stage of perfect vital- 
 crops cease to be planted and the 
 clear, save for the umbrageous 
 erally stand at intervals of 40 or 
 trees usually selected are the guabo, 
 or guachepeli. 
 first few years, the plant is pruned occa- 
 in order that it may * run to fruit ' more 
 1\ . Manures have never been used, even where 
 ground has been cultivated for over a century, 
 and no irrigation is practised. The sediment 
 spread over the land by the rains during the 
 rainy season and the decaying vegetation appear to 
 afford sufficient nutriment. In some haciendas, how- 
 ever, the proprietors pile up leaves and other vegetable 
 matter found in the vicinitv of the tree at its foot, and 
 
THE COCOA TREE AND ITS FRUIT. 15 
 
 also rub down the bark with coarse cloths to destroy the adherino- 
 parasites. 
 
 "The enemies of the cacao tree are the ardillas, the monkeys, 
 many species of small birds which attack the pod, and various para- 
 sites, all but two of which are as yet unclassified. These two are 
 the 'mosquilla' and ' mancha.' Continued vigilance protects the fruit 
 from the parrots, animals, etc., but little has been done to extirpate 
 the parasites of the trunk. 
 
 " In the sixth or seventh year, the tree commences to bear, but the 
 pods at this time are very small and scarcely repay the effort to gather 
 them. In the tenth year, the tree reaches full maturity. It then pro- 
 duces on an average i pound of dry cocoa of good quality. There 
 are many trees which produce more, especially those which are isolated, 
 some of which have yielded at one picking as much as 7 or 8 pounds. 
 In the province of Oro (Machala), ly.^ to 2 pounds per tree is the esti- 
 mated yield. The tree is in bloom during the entire year, but most of 
 the blossoms fall before fructification, which occurs twice a year, the 
 time varying with the locality. 
 
 "The cacao tree grows to a height of 20 or 30 feet; its leaves are 
 evergreen and lanceolated in form ; the base of the main trunk attains 
 a thickness of 8 to 10 inches ; the bark is hard and of greenish coffee 
 codor. The blossom is very small, pinkish white, and waxlike in 
 appearance. It grows directly out of the main trunk and branches. 
 If it fructifies, the petals fall off, and from the stamens, in the course 
 of from fifty to seventy days, an oblong pod is developed. This pod 
 is of golden color, and contains some twenty to thirty-five grains of 
 cacao, enveloped in a gummy liquid, which coagulates on exposure to 
 air. The outer rind of this pod is dark or golden yellow in color and 
 very hard, a sharp instrument being necessary to cut it open. Its size 
 varies, according to the kind of cacao, from 8 to 15 inches long by 
 from 2 to 6 inches thick. The outer rind is marked by longitudinal 
 furrows, more or less pronounced, which indicate the interior arrange- 
 
i6 
 
 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 ment of the seeds. Both the outer rind and the gummy contents of 
 the pod are porous and blacken in color as soon as picked, and in 
 Ecuador are of use only to fertilize the soil upon which they are cast. 
 "As soon as the pods begin to ripen, they are removed with pruning 
 knives, very sharp, and attached to the ends of long poles, which are 
 
 ^ \\ ^ 
 
 ^ \\ ^ \ f / 
 
 CROri' OF NATIVE COCOA PICKERS. 
 
 lengtliened by joints as often as required. As the twigs are very tough 
 the blow with this instrument must be strong and well aimed, and the 
 laborers must be experienced on account of the particular skill that is 
 required and the fatigue that attends handling heavy poles sometimes 
 30 feet long, with th;; face continually upturned. Wherever they can 
 
THE COCOA TREE AND ITS FRUIT. 17 
 
 be reached, the pods are cut off with a machete. They are heaped in 
 piles by one set of laborers, while another cuts them open and extracts 
 the contents. A sharp pruning knife is used, and the seeds are often 
 damaged through carelessness. For extracting the gummy substance 
 and the seeds, an implement made of a beef rib is used. 
 
 " The drying is done on open platforms made of split bamboo and 
 palms, where the cacao is exposed to the sun during three or four days, 
 and, in order that it may dry uniformly and well, laborers are employed 
 to tread it out with bare feet. If not well dried, the bean is apt to 
 ferment, and if excessively dried it shrinks and, finally, turns black. 
 The driers are provided with covers for protection against rain." 
 
 The different methods of fermentation are not described here. The 
 prime object of the sweating or fermentation appears to be to change 
 the inside portion of the bean by absorbing into it products obtained 
 from the fermenting and decomposing pulp, and where this is not 
 accomplished by any of the methods, the bean is classed as unfer- 
 mented, and the product is of lower value. 
 
 The seeds are brought into the market in their crude state, as 
 almond-shaped " beans," which differ in color and somewhat in texture. 
 It is not uncommon to find the external surface more or less covered 
 with a thin, irregular layer of attached earth, but this is almost wholly 
 rubbed off during transportation. Upon the color of shell and kernel, 
 the relative brittleness, the flavor, and the odor depend the market 
 value of the seeds. 
 
 The dried seeds have a papery, brittle shell, which is very smooth 
 on the inside, but which on the outside exhibits, under the microscope, 
 a few short hairs and round excrescences. But these are mostly lost 
 by the rough handling and by the attrition of the seeds with one 
 another during transportation. The kernel consists of two large cotyle- 
 dons or seed-leaves, reddish gray or reddish brown, with a shining, 
 oily surface, the whole crushing rather easily into a loose mass of 
 fragments. The kernel, when dry, has a minute, tough, almost stony 
 
iS 
 
 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 radicle, which separates easily from the cotyledons. Microscopic 
 examination shows that the cells of the seed-leaves contain albumen, 
 oily matters, — sometimes in a crystalline condition, — crystals of an 
 entirely different shape, starch, coloring substances in special recep- 
 
 GATIIEKIXf;' COCOA PODS. 
 
 tacles known as pigment cells, and ducts with spiral markings. The 
 starch grains do not have any very characteristic form or markings ; 
 they are generally spherical and simple. The only peculiarity worth 
 mentioning is the relative slowness with which they are acted upon by 
 hot water and b}^ iodine. The coloring substances are mainly of a 
 
THE COCOA TREE AJVD ITS FRUIT. 19 
 
 carmine or violet color, and are distinguished by the change of shade 
 when an alkali is added, becoming thereby darker. 
 
 These are the only structural elements which a pure powder or paste 
 of chocolate should show under the microscope. Any other substances 
 must be recognized as accidental or intentional additions. 
 
 All seeds of whatever kind contain, as a part of their substance, the 
 matter of which cell w-alls are made, namel}-, cellulose. The percent- 
 age differs in different seeds, in those of the chocolate plant being 
 about three in the hundred. Cellulose has the same chemical composi- 
 tion as starch, but its physical properties are not the same as those of 
 starch ; among these may be mentioned its entire insolubility in boiling 
 water, whereas starch readily dissolves. 
 
 Starch forms, on an average, 8 to 10 per cent, of chocolate seeds. 
 It consists of minute spherical grains, not distinguishable from that 
 found in many other kinds of seeds. Traces of gum and of other 
 allied bodies are also present in the seeds. 
 
 Albuminoids, or substances resembling, in a general way, the albu- 
 men of egg, occur in chocolate seeds as they do in other seeds, and in 
 a somewhat higher amount than in certain other cases in which seeds 
 are used as food. The percentage ranges from about 15 to 20, depend- 
 ing on the variety. These albuminoids are compounds of nitrogen, 
 and are extremely nutritious. In the seeds they occur in a readily 
 assimilable form, fit for digestion. 
 
 Cacao red occurs as a coloring matter in small amount. It is ren- 
 dered dark by alkalies. 
 
 Theobromine, the active principle of the cocoa bean, constitutes less 
 than I per cent, of the weight of the seeds, but it varies greatly in 
 amount in different seeds, ranging from =^%oo of i per cent, ni some to 
 a trifle over i per cent, in others. 
 
 The ash left, on completely burning cocoa beans, is not far from 
 4 per cent. Its composition is substantially that of the ash of seeds of 
 other plants. 
 
20 
 
 COCOA AA'l) CHOCOLATE. 
 
 Cocoa butter, or oil, constitutes not far from 50 per cent, of good 
 cocoa beans. The oil is remarkable for its freedom from rancidity 
 and its very bland character. Its uses are innumerable. 
 
 The following averages of many analyses by leading authorities may 
 be of interest : — 
 
 UNROASTED. 
 
 Moisture . 
 Oil ... 
 Theobromine 
 Starch . . 
 Cellulose . 
 Other carliohy 
 Protein matters 
 Ash .... 
 
 drates, glucosides, etc 
 
 7.1 1 
 51.78 
 
 •35 
 5.7S 
 
 31 
 
 10.05 
 
 15.61 
 
 3.60 
 
 ROASTED. 
 
 Moisture 6.51 
 
 Oil 49-^4 
 
 Theobromine 43 
 
 .Starch 10.43 
 
 Cellulose 3.1 
 
 Otlier carbohydrates, glucosides, etc. 7.78 
 
 Protein matters 18.33 
 
 Ash 3.92 
 
III. 
 
 EARLY USE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 THE name " chocolate " is nearly the same in most European lan- 
 guages, and is taken from the Mexican name of the drink, 
 " chocolatl," or " cacahuatl." Atl is common enough in Mexican 
 words, and is known to signify water. What the tirst part of the word 
 means is not so clear. A French writer says it signifies noise, and 
 that the drink was so named because it was beaten to a froth before 
 being drunk. 
 
 The Spaniards found chocolate in common use among the Mexicans 
 at the time of the invasion under Cortez, in 15 19, and it was introduced 
 into Spain immediately after. The Mexicans not only used chocolate 
 as a staple article of food, but they used the seeds of the cacao tree as 
 a medium of exchange. An early writer says : "In certain provinces 
 called Guatimala and Soconusco there is growing a great store of cacao, 
 which is a berry like unto an almond. It is the best merchandise that 
 is in all the Indies. The Indians make drink of it, and in like man- 
 ner meat to eat. It goeth currently for money in any market, or fair, 
 and may bu}' flesh, fish, bread or cheese, or other things." 
 
 In the " True History of the Conquest of Mexico," bv Bernal Diaz, 
 an officer under Cortez, it is related that " from time to time a liquor 
 prepared from cocoa and of a stimulating or corroborative quality, as 
 we are told, was presented to Montezuma in a golden cup. We could 
 not at the time see if he drank it or not, but I observed a number of 
 jars — above fifty — brought in and filled with foaming chocolate." 
 
 Thomas Gage, in his " New Survey of the West Indies," first pub- 
 lished in 1648, gives the following interesting account of the Spanish 
 
EARLY USE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 23 
 
 METATE. 
 
 and Indian ways of making and drinking chocolate some two hundred 
 and fifty years ago : — 
 
 "Now, for the making or compounding of this drink, I shall set 
 down here the method. The cacao and the other ingredients must be 
 
 beaten in a mortar of stone, or (as the 
 Indians use) ground upon a broad stone, 
 which they call Mctate, and is only made 
 for that use. But first the ingredients are 
 all to be dried, except the Achiotte (an- 
 notto), with care that they be beaten to 
 powder, keeping them still in stirring that 
 they be not burnt, or become black ; for 
 if they be overdried they will be bitter and 
 lose their virtue. The cinnamon and the long red pepper are to be first 
 beaten with the anniseed, and then the cacao, which must be beaten by 
 little and little till it be all powdered, and in the beating it must be 
 turned round that it may mix the better. Every one of these ingredi- 
 ents must be beaten by itself, and then all be put into the vessel where 
 the cacao is, which you must stir together with a spoon, and then take 
 out that paste, and put it into the mortar, 
 under which there must be a little tire, 
 after the confection is made ; but if more 
 fire be put under than will only warm it, 
 then the unctuous part will dry away. 
 The Achiotte also must be put in in the 
 beating, that it may the better take the 
 colour. All the ingredients must be 
 searced, save only the cacao, and if from 
 the cacao the dry shell be taken, it will 
 be the better. When it is well beaten 
 and incorporated (w^hich will be known by the shortnesse of it) then 
 with a spoon (so in the Indias is used) is taken up some of the paste, 
 
 CHOCOLATE-GRINDING IN THE 
 SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 From an early engraving. 
 
24 
 
 COCOA A.VI) CHOCOLATE. 
 
 which will be almost liquid, and made into tablets, or else without a 
 spoon put into boxes, and when it is cold it will be hard. 
 
 " Those that make it into tablets put a spoonful of the paste upon a 
 piece of paper (the Indians put it upon the leaf of a plaintain tree), 
 where, being put into the shade (for in the sun it melts and dissolves), 
 it grows hard ; and then bowing the paper or leaf, the tablet fals off by 
 reason of the fatnesse of the paste. But if it be put into an^'thing of 
 earth or wood, it stickes fast, and will not come off but with scraping or 
 breaking. The manner of drinking it is divers ; the one (being the 
 way most used in Mexico) is to take it hot with Atolle, dissolving a 
 tablet in hot water, and stirring and beating it in the cup, when it is 
 to be drunk, with a Molinet, and when it is well 
 stirred to a scumme or froth, then to fill the 
 cup with hot Atolle, and so drink it sup by sup. 
 Another way is that the chocolate, being dis- 
 solved with cold water and stirred with the Moli- 
 net, and the scumme being taken off and put 
 into another vessel, the remainder be set upon 
 the fire, with as much sugar as will sweeten it, 
 and when it is warme, then to powre it upon 
 the scumme which was taken off before, and 
 so to drink it. But the most ordinary way is to warme the water very 
 hot, and then to powre out half the cup full that 3'ou mean to drink ; 
 and to put into it a tablet or two, or as much as will thicken reasonably 
 the water, and then grinde it well with the Molinet, and when it is well 
 ground and risen to a scumme, to fill the cup with hot water, and so 
 drink it by sups (having sweetened it with sugar), and to eat it with a 
 little conserve or maple bred, steeped into the chocolatte. 
 
 " Besides these ways there is another way (which is much used 
 in the Island of Santo Domingo), which is to put the chocolatte into a 
 pipkin with a little water, and to let it boyle well till it be dissolved, and 
 then to put in sufficient water and sugar according to the quantity of 
 
 MOLIM-nS. 
 
EARLY USE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 25 
 
 the chocolatte, and then to boyle it again untill there comes an oily 
 scumme upon it, and then to drink it. 
 
 " There is another way yet to drink chocolatte, which is cold, which 
 the Indians use at feasts to refresh themselves, and it is made after this 
 manner : The chocolatte (which is made with none, or very few, ingre- 
 dients) being dissolved in cold water with the Molinet, they take off 
 the scumme or crassy part, which riseth in great quantity, especially 
 when the cacao is older and more putrefied. The scumme they lay 
 aside in a little dish by itself, and then put sugar into that part 
 from whence was taken the scumme, and then powre it from on high 
 into the scumme, and so drink it cold. And this drink is so cold that it 
 agreeth not with all men's stomachs ; for by experience it hath been 
 found that it doth hurt by causing pains in the stomach, especiall}' to 
 women. 
 
 "The third way of taking it is the most used, and thus certainly it 
 doth no hurt, neither know I why it may not be used as well in Eng- 
 land as in other parts, both hot and cold ; for where it is so much used, 
 the most, if not all, as well in the Indias as in Spain, Italy, Flanders 
 (which is a cold countrey), lind that it agreeth well with them. True 
 it is, it is used more in the Indias than in the European parts, be- 
 cause there the stomachs are more apt to faint than here, and a cup of 
 chocolatte well confectioned comforts and strengthens the stomach. 
 For myself I must say, I used it twelve years constantly, drinking one 
 cup in the morning, another yet before dinner between nine or ten of 
 the clock ; another within an hour or two after dinner, and another be- 
 tween four and five in the afternoon ; and when I was purposed to sit 
 up late to study, I would take another cup about seven or eight at night, 
 which would keep me waking till about midnight. And if b}- chance 
 I did neglect any of these accustomed houres, I presently found my 
 stomach fainty. And with this custome I lived twelve years in those 
 parts healthy, without any obstructions, or oppilations, not knowing 
 what either ague or feaver was." 
 
26 COCOA A\D CHOCOLATE. 
 
 Another writer of the seventeenth century ^ describing the various 
 products of the New World, says : — 
 
 " But much more beneficial is the Cacao, with which Fruit New 
 Spain drives a great Trade ; nay, serves for Coin'd Money. When 
 they deliver a Parcel of Cacao, they tell them by five, thirty and a 
 hundred. Their Charity to the Poor never exceeds above one Cacao- 
 Nut. The Trees on which this Fruit grows are divided into four sorts, 
 differing in bigness and shape : all of them are very tender, for they 
 will not only grow in no place, but on their usual Ground, but cannot 
 endure the cold Nights Storms, or excesses of Heat ; wherefore the 
 Cacao-Trees which grow out of the Fruit that falls off, come to no 
 perfection, except in shady and warm Valleys ; which is also the 
 reason why the Planters of New Spain plant the great Leafy Tree 
 Cacaoquanthly (that is. The Mother of the Cacao's) near the Cacao- 
 Tree, that it mav the better grow under the Shadow thereof ; in which 
 manner whole Woods are planted : In the second year it bears Fruit, 
 which is first ripe in Januarv, and again in the midst of Summer. 
 Amongst the four sorts the chiefest is Qiiathuitl, of an indifferent 
 heighth, and full of sharp-pointed Leaves, which are fast to the Boughs 
 without Stalks, and bears a great Flower of a yellowish colour, which 
 falling off, leaves long, tough and hairy Threds behind them, out of 
 which grows the Cacavently, a Fruit which is oval, heavy like a Melon, 
 of a Saffron-colour, of a fat and thick Juice, a bitterish, yet pleasant 
 taste, and very cooling ; being dry'd in the Sun it is thereby made fit 
 to keep ; it is likewise highly esteem'd, because the Chocolate is made 
 of the same. Before the Spaniards made themselves Masters of 
 Mexico, no other Drink was esteem'd but that of the Cacao ; none 
 caring for Wine, notwithstanding the Soil produces Vines every where 
 in great abundance of it self. But besides the Qiiathuitl, New Spain 
 hath three other sorts of Cacao-Trees, viz. Mecanal, pleasant to behold 
 
 'America: Reing the Latest, and Most Accurate Description of the New World. I'.y Arnoldus Montanus. 
 Collected by John Ogilby, 1671. 
 
From stereograph, copyright, iqob, by Underiuood &^ Vtuierwood, Neiv York. 
 CACAO TREE WITH PODS 4 MOXTHS OLD GROWING FROM TRUNK. 
 La Clementina hacienda, Ecuador. The scars on trunk show where pods have grown in former seasons 
 
28 
 
 COCOA AAV CHOCOLATE. 
 
 for its heighth, large Leaves and Fruit; the next is the Xochucaual, 
 which is less than the former ; and lastly, the least sort, which is call'd 
 Halcacahual. The Fruit of these four sorts of Trees, though differing 
 in shape, yet is all one in power and operation." 
 
 M^i^^^liyfflaadL^eniSj^in " La Legende du Cacahuatl," makes the 
 foljIP^nng interesting statenieiii in regard to the preparation of choco- 
 late in anycient Mexico : — 
 
 "orciueinada, 
 id iiis- 
 
 GRINDING ROOM IN ONE OF WALTER 
 BAKER & CO.'S MILLS. 
 
 n , and 
 Thomas Gage, 
 the conscientious traveler, 
 agree in telling us that /lol 
 chocolate was an invention 
 of the Castilians. The first of these writers, who lived at the end 
 of the sixteenth century, says so positively ; in his time it had been 
 used for only a few years. 
 
 " Would you know now what chocolate was when the learned 
 Antonio Colmenero de Ledesma • gave his receipt ? I copy it for you 
 here : — 
 
 « Colmenero de Ledesma (Antonio) Chocolata Inda Opsisculum de qualitate & Natura Cliocolae.T, izmo 
 Xovimberg;t, 1644. 
 
EARLY USE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 29 
 
 " ' Take a hundred cacao kernels, two heads of Chili or long peppers, 
 a handful of anise or orjevala, and two of mesachusil or vanilla, — or, 
 instead, six Alexandria roses, powdered, — two drachms of cinnamon, 
 a dozen almonds, and as many hazel-nuts, a half pound of white sugar, 
 and annotto enough to color it, and you have the king of chocolates.' " 
 
 The Spaniards thus early acquired a knowledge of the fruit and of 
 the manner of preparing it, which they kept sq^pHnfor many years. 
 
 A Mfil.DINfl ROOM IN WALTER }!AKER\% COS MILLS. 
 
 selling it very prolitably as " chocollat " to the wealthy and luxurious 
 classes of Europe. 
 
 Says Brillat-Savarin, in his famous " Physiologie du Gout," " Choco- 
 late came over the mountains [from Spain to France] with Anne of 
 Austria, daughter of Philip III,, and queen of Louis XIII. The 
 Spanish monks also spread the knowledge of it by the presents they 
 made to their brothers in France, It is well known that Linna?us 
 called the fruit of the cocoa tree i/ieobronia, ' food for the gods.' The 
 cause of this emphatic qualification has been sought, and attributed by 
 
30 
 
 COCOA AXD CHOCOLATE. 
 
 some to the fact that he was extravagantly fond of chocolate ; bv others 
 to his desire to please his confessor ; and by others to his gallantry, a 
 queen having first introduced it into France. 
 
 " The Spanish ladies of the New World, it is said, carried their love 
 for chocolate to such a degree that, not content with partaking of it 
 several times a day, they had it sometimes carried after them to church. 
 This favoring of the senses often drew upon them the censures of the 
 bishop ; but the Reverend Father Escobar, whose metaphvsics were as 
 
 subtle as his morality 
 was accommodating, 
 declared, formallv, that 
 a fast was not broken 
 by chocolate prepared 
 with water : thus wire- 
 drawing, in favor of his 
 penitents, the ancient 
 adage, ^ Liqiiiduni non 
 fra ng'it jeju n in ;;/."" 
 
 Chocolate appears 
 to have been highly 
 valued as a remedial agent by the leading physicians of that day. 
 Christoph Ludwig Hoffmann wrote a treatise entitled "Potus Choco- 
 late," in which he recommended it in many diseases, and instanced the 
 C9S,e of Cardinal Richelieu, who, he stated, was cured of general 
 atrophy by its use. 
 
 The earliest intimation of the introduction of cocoa into Enf{land is 
 found in an announcement in the Public Advertiser of Tuesday, June 
 i6, 1657 (more than a hundred and thirty years after its introduction 
 into Spain), stating that "In Bishopsgate Street, in Qiieen's Head 
 Alley, at a Frenchman's house, is an excellent West India drink, called 
 chocolate, to be sold, where you may have it ready at any time ; and 
 also unmade, at reasonable rates." 
 
 COOLING KOOM, WALTER RAKER & CO S MILLS. 
 
EARLY USE OF COCOA A\D CHOCOLATE. 
 
 31 
 
 Two years later, in the Mcrctirius Politicus for June, 1659, it is 
 stated that " Chocolate, an excellent West India drink, is sold in Qiieen's 
 Head Alley, in Bisjiopsgate Street, by a Frenchman who did formerly 
 sell it in Grace Church Street and Clement's Churchyard, being the 
 first man who did sell it in England ; and its virtues are highly extolled." 
 
 A book written in the time of Charles II., entitled "The Indian 
 Nectar, or a Discourse Concerning Chocolate, etc.," says the best kind 
 can be purchased of one Mortimer, " an honest though poor man, liv- 
 ing in East Smithfield," for 6s. 8d. per pound, and commoner sorts 
 for about half that price. 
 
 About the beginning of the eighteenth century chocolate had become 
 an exceedingly fashionable beverage, and the cocoa tree was a favorite 
 sign and name for places of public refreshment. Cocoa and chocolate 
 are frequently mentioned in contemporary literature : and among others 
 Pope, in his "Rape of the Lock," alludes to it; the negligent spirit, 
 fixed liked Ixion, — 
 
 "In fumes of burning cliocolate shall glow, 
 And tremble at the sea that froths below. 
 
 .MILTON LOWER MILLS LN 1822 — FROM MODEL. WALTER BAKER & CO.'S 
 MILL ox THE RIGHT. 
 
 Chocolate was first manufactured in this country in 1765, in a mill on 
 the Dorchester side of the Neponset River, at a point long known as 
 Milton Lower Mills. Fifteen 3^ears later the plant came into the posses- 
 sion of Dr. James Baker, and the small beginning then made of a new 
 industry has developed into the world-famous manufacturing establish- 
 ment known as Walter Baker & Co. Ltd., of which some account is 
 given farther on. 
 
32 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 The first notice of the sale of cocoa and chocolate in this country 
 
 appears in the Boston Gazette and Country Journal of March 12, 
 
 1770, as follows: — 
 
 "TO BE SOLD BY 
 
 JOHN BAKER 
 At his Store in Back Street a few Bags of 
 the best Cocoa ; also choice Chocolate by 
 the Hundred or Smaller Quantity." 
 The following from the Essex Gazette, of June 18, 1771, contains 
 the first public notice of the manufacture of chocolate : 
 
 "AMOS TRASK, 
 At his House a little below the Bell-Tavern in 
 DAN VERS, 
 Makes and sells CHOCOLATE, 
 which he will warrant to be good, and takes 
 Cocoa to grind. Those who may please to 
 favour him with their Custom may depend 
 upon being well served, and at a very cheap 
 Rate." 
 Two years later the Boston Gazette and Country Jou7-nal (April 5, 
 1773) contained the following notice : — 
 
 "CHOCOLATE 
 TO BE SOLD BY JOSEPH MANN, 
 choice Chocolate made by himself, and 
 Warranted pure, likewise good Cocoa 
 Shells, at his House in Water-Street, next 
 Door to Ebenezer Torrey Baker, at the 
 Sign of the Wheat Sheaff near Oliver's 
 Dock, Boston. — Also Cocoa taken in to 
 Grind : Any gentlemen who will please to 
 favour him with their Custom may depend 
 on having it done with Fidelity and Dis- 
 patch." 
 
EARLY USE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 33 
 
 Crude cocoa was brought to the American market at that time by the 
 Massachusetts traders, especially the Gloucester fishermen who re- 
 ceived it in exchange for the fish and other articles which they shipped 
 to the West Indies and Central and South America ; and the direct 
 connection with the producers, thus early established, was maintained 
 until recent years. 
 
 In giving an account of the manufactures in Boston, in 1794, J. L. 
 Bishop, in his " History of American Manufactures," says : "Choco- 
 late had long been made from the large quantities of cocoa obtained 
 in the West India trade, and had been greatl}- expedited by recent 
 inventions. The chocolate mill of Mr. Welsh, at the North End, 
 could turn out 2,500 lbs. daily." 
 
IV. 
 
 A PERFECT FOOD. 
 
 BARON VON LIEBIG, one of the best-known writers on 
 dietetics, says : — 
 '* Chocolate is a perfect food, as wholesome as it is delicious, a 
 beneficent restorer of exhausted power ; but its quality nuist be good, 
 and it must be carefully prepared. It is highly nourishing and easily 
 digested, and is fitted to repair wasted strength, preserve health, and 
 
 prolong life. It 
 /'I "^ "" - -iiLai&'.i.L^i^iidHHB^B agrees with dr}' tem- 
 
 peraments and con- 
 valescents ; with 
 mothers who nurse 
 their children ; with 
 those whose occupa- 
 tions oblijre them to 
 undergo severe men- 
 tal strains; with 
 public speakers, and 
 with all those who 
 give to work a portion of the time needed for sleep. It soothes both 
 stomach and brain, and for this reason, as well as for others, it is the 
 best friend of those engaged in literary pursuits." 
 
 Dr. Edward Smith, LL.B,, F.R.S., in liis valuable work on 
 " Foods," for the International Scientific Series, says : — 
 
 "These well-known substances (cocoa and chocolate) are valuable 
 foods, since they are not only allied to tea and coffee as respiratory ex- 
 citants, but possess a large quantity of fat and other food materials. . . ." 
 
 STORAGE OF COCOA HEANS. 
 
A PERFECT FOOD. 
 
 35 
 
 iNSPECTiox OK i-.i:a.\s. 
 
 After giving an analysis of the cocoa bean, he goes on to say : " This 
 substance in its action is less exciting to the nervous system than tea or 
 coffee, and at the same 
 time it contains a much 
 larger proportion of 
 nutritive material. 
 Moreover, its flavor is 
 not lessened by the 
 addition of milk, so that r 
 it can be boiled in milk 
 only, and thus produce a 
 most agreeable and nu- 
 tritious food. There are, therefore, many persons, states of system, and 
 circumstances in which its use is to be preferred to either tea or coffee." 
 
 Brillat-Savarin, from whose work we have already quoted, says time 
 and experience have shown " that chocolate, carefully prepared, is an 
 article of food as wholesome as it is agreeable ; that it is nourishing, 
 easy of digestion, and does not possess those qualities injurious to 
 beauty with which coffee has been reproached ; that it is excellently 
 adapted to persons who are obliged to a great concentration of intellect 
 in the toils of the pulpit or the bar, and especially to travelers ; that it 
 suits the most feeble stomach ; that excellent effects have been pro- 
 duced by it in chronic complaints, and that it is a last resource in affec- 
 tions of the pylorus. 
 
 " Some persons complain of being unable to digest chocolate ; others, 
 on the contrar}^ pretend that it has not sufficient nourishment, and that 
 the effect disappears too soon. It is probable that the former have 
 only themselves to blame, and that the chocolate which they use is of 
 bad quality or badly made ; for good and well-made chocolate must 
 suit every stomach which retains the slightest digestive power. 
 
 "In regard to the others, the remedy is an easy one: they should 
 reenforce their breakfast with a fate^ a cutlet, or a kidney ; moisten 
 
36 
 
 COCOA AA'Z> CHOCOLATE. 
 
 ASSORTINT, \: 
 
 the whole with a good 
 draught of soconusco 
 chocolate, and thank 
 God for a stomach of 
 such superior activity. 
 " This gives me an 
 opportunity to make an 
 observation w^hose ac- 
 curacy may be de- 
 pended upon. 
 
 "After a good, 
 complete, and copious 
 breakfast, if we take 
 in addition d cup of well-made chocolate, digestion will be perfectly 
 accomplished in three hours, and we may dine w^henever we like. Out 
 of zeal for science, and by dint of eloquence, I have induced many 
 ladies to try this experiment. They all declared, in the beginning, that 
 it would kill them ; but they have all thriven on it, and have not failed 
 to glorify their teacher. 
 
 "The people who make constant use of chocolate are the ones who 
 enjoy the most steady health, and are the least subject to a multitude of 
 little ailments which destroy the 
 comfort of life ; their plumpness is 
 also more equal. These are two 
 advantages which every one may 
 verify among his own friends, and 
 wherever the practise is in use." 
 M, Boussingault, a member of 
 the French Institute, in an inter- 
 esting paper printed in the "ylw- 
 nales de Physique ct du Chimie" 
 says : — 
 
 FINAL PROCESS OF SELECTION'. 
 
A PERFECT FOOD. 37 
 
 offers undeniable ad- 
 
 T 1 1 , ^WKET Cmxdl.ATK IX STORAGE. 
 
 vantages, as 1 have had 
 
 frequent occasions to notice. Humboldt recalls what has been said 
 with reason, that in Africa rice, gum, and butter enable men to cross 
 the desert ; and he adds that, in the New World, chocolate and corn 
 meal render the plateaus of the Andes and the vast, uninhabited forests 
 accessible to man. 
 
 " In Central America, when they organize a river expedition, or 
 traverse the forests, they prepare chocolate for provision with eighty 
 parts of cocoa to twenty of coarse sugar, the composition being as fol- 
 lows : — 
 
 Sugar 200 
 
 Butter ^,Q 
 
 Albumen , , , . 100 
 
 Phosphates and Salts , _ ^o 
 
 Other Matter 260 
 
 1,000 
 " Each man receives 60 grams (about 2 ounces) of this chocolate 
 per day, in which there are 12 grams of sugar, 26 of butter, and 6 
 of albumen. It is a useful addition to the ration formed of beef slightly 
 salted and dried in the air, of rice, of corn biscuit, or of cassava muffins. 
 "The infusion of tea, mate (Paraguay tea), and coffee are not, of 
 course, to be considered as food. The amount of solid matter in them 
 is very slight, and their effects are due only to their alkaloids. 
 
38 
 
 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 "This is not true of chocolate, which is at the same time complete 
 food and an active excitant, since it approaches in composition that 
 model food, milk. In fact we have seen that in cocoa there is legu- 
 mine and albumen, associated with fat, sugar to sustain respiratory 
 combustion, phosphates, which are the basis of the bones, and — what 
 milk does not have — theobromine and a delicate aroma. Roasted, 
 
 WRAPPING ROOM, KAKER S CHOCOLATE. 
 
 ground, and mixed with sugar, cocoa becomes chocolate, the nutritive 
 properties of which astonished the Spanish soldiers that invaded 
 Mexico." 
 
 Dr. Edmund A. Parkes, F.R.S., in his " Manual of Practical Hy- 
 giene, prepared especially for use in tlie Medical Service of the Army" 
 (London, 1864), says : — 
 
A /'EA'FECr J='0()/). 
 
 39 
 
 " Although the theobromine of cocoa is now known to be identical 
 with theine and caffeine, the composition of cocoa removes it widely 
 from tea and coffee. The quantity of fat varies even in the same sort 
 of cocoa. The ash contains a large quantity of phosphate of potash. 
 The larger quantity of fat makes it a very nourishing article of diet, 
 and it is therefore useful in weak states of the system, and for healthy 
 men under circumstances of great exertion. It has even been com- 
 pared to milk. In South America cocoa and maize cakes are used by 
 travelers, and the large amount of agreeable nourishment in small 'bulk 
 ^> .. ■ - . ... ■ .. -.>/v@ 
 
 WRAPPING RChi.M, JiAKhK > HKEAKFAST COCOA. 
 
 enables several days' supplies to be easily carried. By roasting, the 
 starch is changed into dextrine, the amount of margaric acid increases, 
 and an empyrematic aromatic substance is formed." 
 
 Francois Joseph Victor Broussais, a celebrated physician and mem- 
 ber of the French Institute, says : — 
 
 " Chocolate of good quality, well made, properly cooked, is one of 
 the best aliments that I have yet found for my patients and for myself. 
 This delicious food calms the fever, nourishes adequately the patient, 
 and tends to restore him to health. I would even add that I attribute 
 many cures of chronic dyspepsia to the regular use of chocolate." 
 
40 
 
 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 Christoph Wilhelm Hufeland, the distinguished German physician, 
 says : — 
 
 "I recommend good chocolate to nervous, excitable persons: also 
 to the weak, debilitated, and infirm ; to children and women. I have 
 obtained excellent results from it in many cases of chronic diseases of 
 the digestive organs." 
 
 Dr. Karl Ernest Bock, of Leipsic, author of a '-'-Traiti de Pathologie 
 et de Diagnostics^'' says : — 
 
 '* The nervousness and peevishness of our times are chiefly attribu- 
 table to tea and coffee ; 
 the digestive organs of 
 confirmed coffee drink- 
 ers are in a state of 
 chronic derangement, 
 which reacts upon the 
 brain, producing fretful 
 and lachrymose moods. 
 Cocoa and chocolate are 
 neutral in their physical 
 effects, and are really the 
 most harmless of our 
 fashionable drinks." 
 Jean Baptiste Alphonse Chevalier, in his treatise on chocolate, 
 says : — 
 
 "Cocoa and chocolate are a complete food; coffee and tea are not 
 food. Cocoa gives one third its weight in starch and one half in cocoa 
 butter ; and, converted into chocolate by the addition of sugar, it real- 
 izes the idea of a complete aliment, wholesome and eminently hygienic. 
 The shells of the bean contain the same principles as the kernels, and 
 the extract, obtained by an infusion of the shells in sweetened milk, 
 forms a mixture at once agreeable to the taste and an advantageous 
 substitute for tea and coffee." 
 
 WRAPPING ROOM, BAKER'S VANILLA AND 
 CARACAS CHOCOLATES. 
 
A PERFECT FOOD. 
 
 41 
 
 WRAPPING confectioner's CHOCOLATE. 
 
 Mme. de Sevigne, in one of her letters to her daughter, says : — 
 
 "I took chocolate night before last to digest my dinner, in order to 
 have a good supper. I 
 took some yesterday for 
 nourishment, so as to be 
 able to fast until night. 
 What I consider amusing 
 about chocolate is that it 
 acts according to the 
 wishes of the one who 
 takes it." 
 
 It will be observed that 
 Brillat-Savarin corrobo- 
 rates this statement as to 
 the value of chocolate as 
 an aid to digestion. 
 
 "The cocoa bean," says M. Payen, in ^^ Dcs Substances Alimen- 
 laires" " has in its composition more nitrogen than wheat flour, about 
 twenty times as much fatty matter, a considerable proportion of starch, 
 and an agreeable aroma which excites the appetite.. We are entirely 
 disposed to admit that this substance contains a remarkable nutritive 
 power. Besides, direct experience has proved this to be the case. In 
 fact, cocoa, closely combined with an equal or two thirds' weight of 
 sugar, forming the article well-known under the name of chocolate, 
 constitutes a food, substantial in all respects, and capable of sustaining 
 the strength in traveling." 
 
 And a little farther on, he adds : — 
 
 *' Cocoa and chocolate, in consequence of their elementary composi- 
 tion, and of the direct or indirect addition of sugar before their con- 
 sumption, constitute a food, respiratory, or capable of maintaining 
 animal heat, by means of the starch, sugar, gum, and fatty matter 
 which they contain ; they are also articles of food favorable to the 
 
42 
 
 COCOA AXJ) CHOCOLATE. 
 
 maintenance or dev'elopment of the adipose secretions, by reason of 
 the fatty matter (cocoa butter) belonging to them ; and, finally, thev 
 assist in the maintenance and increase of the tissues by means of their 
 congeneric azote substances, which assimilate therewith." 
 
 Etienne Francois Geoffroy, the distinguished French physician and 
 professor of medicine and pharmacy in the College of France, says, in 
 his " Traite de Mali ere Medicale " ; — 
 
 "The drinking of chocolate, especially of that made with milk, is 
 recommended to persons affected with phthisis or consumption ; and, 
 
 WRAPPING GERMAN SWEET 
 
 in fact, it supplies a juice which is nourishing, substantial, ana smooth, 
 which deadens the acrimony of the humors: provided, as we have said, 
 that the cocoa is properly roasted, and mixed with a very small quantitv 
 of spices." 
 
 A French officer who served in the West Indies for a period of fifteen 
 years, during the early part of the last century, wrote, as the result of 
 his personal observations, a treatise on " The Natural History of Choc- 
 olate, Being a Distinct and Particular Account of the Cacao Tree, Its 
 Growth and Culture, and the Preparation, Excellent Properties, and 
 Medicinal Virtues of Its Fruit," which received the approbation of the 
 
A PERFECT FOOD. 
 
 43 
 
 Regent of the Faculty of Medicine at Paris, and which was translated 
 and published in London, in 1730. After describing the different 
 methods of raising and curing the fruit and preparing it for food (which 
 it is not worth while to reproduce here, as the methods have essentially 
 changed since that time), he goes on to demonstrate, as the result of 
 actual experiment, that chocolate is. a substance "very temperate, very 
 nourishing, and of easy digestion ; very proper to repair the exhausted 
 
 PACKING ROOM. i'.ARERS CHOCOLATE. 
 
 spirits and decayed strength : and very suitable to preserve the health 
 and prolong the lives of old men. . . . 
 
 "There lately died at Martinico a counselor, about a hundred j-ears 
 old, who for thirty years past lived on nothing but chocolate and bis- 
 cuit. He sometimes, indeed, had a little soup at dinner, but never any 
 fish, flesh, or other victuals. He was, nevertheless, so vigorous and 
 nimble that at fourscore and live he could jjet on horseback without 
 stirrups. 
 
44 
 
 COCOA .LYJ) CHOCOLATE. 
 
 " Chocolate is not only proper to prolong the life of aged people, but 
 also of those whose constitution is lean and dry, or weak and caco- 
 chymical, or who use violent exercises, or whose employments oblige 
 them to an intense application of mind, which makes them very faintish. 
 To all these it agrees perfectly well, and becomes to them an altering 
 diet." 
 
 Dr. Nansen, the famous Arctic explorer, in his book entitled "The 
 First Crossing of Greenland" (Vol. I., p. 58), speaks of chocolate as 
 an important part of the equipment for such an undertaking. "We 
 generall}^" he says, " used chocolate in the morning." Referring to 
 tea, coffee, and alcoholic drinks, he says: "Stimulants of this kind, 
 with the exception of chocolate, which is mild in its effect and at the 
 same time nourishing, bring practically no nutritive substance into the 
 body, and the energy which one obtains in anticipation by their use at 
 one moment must be paid for by a corresponding exhaustion at the 
 next." 
 
FOUNDERS OF THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD. 
 
V. 
 
 THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD. 
 
 IT is stated, on what appears to be good authority,^ that the chocolate 
 mill erected on Neponset River, in the town of Dorchester, ]Mass., 
 in 1765, was the iirst mill of that kind established in the British 
 provinces of North America. It was connected with a sawmill, operated 
 by water-power, and was regarded as a somewhat doubtful experiment. 
 Its establishment was due to the representations made by John Hannan, 
 an Irish immigrant, who 
 had learned the business 
 of chocolate making in 
 England. The new^ in- 
 dustry prospered in a 
 small way, and on the 
 death of Hannan, in 1780, 
 Dr. James Baker estab- 
 lished the house which 
 has continued under the 
 name of Baker without interruption from that day to this. 
 
 After the death of Dr. James Baker the business fell in the order of 
 succession to his son Edmund and his grandson Walter. On the death 
 of the latter in 1852, Sidney Williams, who had been his partner for 
 some years, continued in charge of the affairs until he died two years 
 later (1854), when Henry L. Pierce, a relative of Walter Baker, took 
 the management of the business, tirst as lessee and later as sole owner. 
 During the fortv-two years in which he had control he raised it from a 
 
 I ^1 
 
 OLD STONE .MILL OF WALTER BAKER & CO. 
 (REBUILT IN 1849.) 
 
 ' History of the Town of Dorchester, Mass., 1857. 
 
THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER &- CO. 
 
 47 
 
 comparatively small, local concern to the position of the leading 
 industrial enterprise of its kind on this continent. 
 
 In 1895 the business was organized as a corporation under the 
 general laws of Massachusetts ; and in 1898 a special charter was 
 granted by the General Court. 
 
 The old stone mill which was erected in 1849, ^^ ^^^ ^^^^ long occu- 
 pied by the small building shown in the engraving of 1822, has given 
 place to an imposing structure of brick and stone, known as Mill No. 5. 
 The plant now comprises six mills on the Dorchester and Milton sides 
 of the Neponset River, containing 348,480 square feet of floor space — 
 about eight acres. 
 
 It is an interesting fact that on the spot where 
 the industry was first started, more than a cen- 
 tury and a quarter ago, the business has con- 
 tinued and attained the highest development. 
 From the little wooden mill, ^ \. 
 
 " By the rude bridge that arched the 
 riood," 
 
 XEPONSET RIVER FALLS. 
 
THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER &- CO. 
 
 49 
 
 there has grown up one of the greatest estabHshments in the world, — 
 the house of Walter Baker & Co. Ltd., — an establishment which 
 competes successfully for prizes in all the great industrial exhibitions 
 of the world, whose influence is felt in the great commercial centers, 
 and whose prosperity promotes the welfare of men who labor under a 
 tropical sun in the cultivation of one of the choicest fruits of the earth. 
 Before proceeding to describe the methods of manufacture used in 
 the Baker Mills, something should be said on the importance of select- 
 ing only the best raw materials, and of treating them in the light of 
 modern science and without sophistication. 
 
 The three associated beverages, cacao, tea, and coffee, are known 
 to the French as aro- 
 matic drinks. Each of 
 these has its character- 
 istic aroma. The fra- 
 grance and flavor are 
 so marked that they 
 cannot be imrtated by 
 any artificial products, 
 although numerous at- 
 tempts have been made 
 in regard to all three. 
 Hence, the detection 
 of adulteration is not a 
 diflicult matter. De- 
 signing persons, aware of the extreme difliculty of imitating these sub- 
 stances, have undertaken to employ lower grades, and by manipulation 
 copy, as far as may be, the higher sorts. Every one knows how 
 readily tea and coffee, for that matter, will take up odors and flavors 
 from substances placed near them. This is abundantly exemplified in 
 the country grocery or general store, where the teas and coffees share 
 
 A BIT OF THE OLD MILL 
 
50 COCOA AM) CHOCOLATE. 
 
 in the pervasive fragrance of the cheese and kerosene. But perhaps 
 it is not so widely understood that some of these very teas and coffees 
 had been artificially flavored or corrected before they reached their 
 destination in this country. 
 
 Cacao lends itself very readily to such preliminary treatment. In a 
 first-class article, the beans should be of the highest excellence ; they 
 should be carefully grown on the plantation and there prepared with 
 great skill, arriving in the factory in good condition. In the factory, 
 they should simply receive the mechanical treatment requisite to 
 develop their high and attractive natural flavor and fragrance. They 
 should be most carefully shelled after roasting and finely ground 
 without concealed additions. This is the process in all honest 
 manufactories of the cacao products. 
 
 Now, as matter of fact, in the preparation of many of the cacao 
 products on the market a wholly different course has been pursued. 
 I^eans of poor quality are used, because of their cheapness, and in 
 some instances they are only imperfectly, if at all, shelled before 
 grinding. Chemical treatment is relied on to correct in part the odor 
 and taste of such inferior goods, and artificial flavors, other than the 
 time-honored natural vanilla and the like, are added freely. The 
 detection of such imposition is easy enough to the expert, but is difli- 
 cult to the novice : therefore the public is largely unable to discriminate 
 between the good and the inferior, and it is perforce compelled to depend 
 almost entirely on the character and reputation of the manufacturer. 
 
 Pure cacao-products are characterized by extreme delicacy of flavor. 
 But they possess another feature of attractiveness, — a beautiful rich 
 red-brown color which is so truly characteristic, that its name, 
 *' chocolate," has passed into many languages as denoting this charm- 
 ing shade. When the cacao product is pure, this shade is not a very 
 dark brown, it inclines rather to a dark red. When the color of a 
 cacao-product is so dark as to appear almost black it is a sure sign that 
 it has been tampered with in the process of manufacture or else that 
 
THE HOUSE OE WALTER BAKER &- CO. 5l 
 
 the original cacao-seed was of poor quality. The uninformed person 
 naturally thinks that the deeper shade means strength. This it never 
 means. The black color simply shows that the manufacturer has seen 
 fit to employ harmful alkaline additions at some stage of the process, 
 or perhaps has preferred to color his goods artificially with coal-tar 
 dyes or with the less injurious lampblack. It may be said, once for 
 all, that black cacao-products must be looked upon with suspicion. 
 They contain foreign matters or else they have been maltreated by 
 chemicals during manufacture. Pure products of the cacao-seed pre- 
 serve their fine delicacy of flavor from start to finish : black products 
 are impure. Discriminating purchasers know this and recognize the 
 fine reddish-brown as characteristic of a pure product, while it is only 
 among those who do not give proper attention to the matter that a 
 market can be found for the cacaos and chocolates to which alkalies, 
 coal-tar dyes, or lampblack have given an unwholesome darkness. 
 
 There are few articles in common use where so simple a test for 
 purity exists. 
 
 A well-known medical expert has said: "The recent tendency to 
 interfere with the natural properties and constituents of such a valuable 
 food as cocoa is deeply to be deplored. The removal of the fiber and 
 the excess of fat is all that is necessary to produce the most perfect food 
 beverage known to physiologists, and the best cocoa from the dietetic 
 standpoint is undoubtedly that which is perfectly pure without addition 
 of any kind whatsoever. Some manufacturers add starch or sugar in 
 the mistaken idea that starch properly replaces the fat removed. But 
 in no case can starch take the place of fat in a food, and the result is 
 simply to lower the flesh-forming qualities of the cocoa so treated. 
 Starched cocoa is really a poor food, and should be avoided by all who 
 wash to get the most nutriment at the lowest cost in the form of pure 
 cocoa. Malted cocoa, so much in vogue lately, is merely a fad, and 
 has no actual food value over the plain article. The malt is added 
 because it contains a ferment termed ' diastase,' which has the power 
 
52 
 
 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 
 of converting starch into sugar, and if the malt retained this power in 
 the cup of cocoa its inclusion could be defended. But the diastase is 
 killed at 175 deg. Fahr., and therefore the digestive action of the malt 
 is entirely destroyed by the addition of the boiling milk or water to the 
 powder or paste in the cup. Inasmuch as malt is inferior to cocoa in 
 actual food value, its addition to cocoa lowers the nutritive value of the 
 beverage. The use of hops is also entirel}' useless as far as practical 
 
 i-liUji 
 
 MILL \0. 4, WALTER HAKER & CO. LTD. 
 
 results are concerned, for if sufficient hops were used to be of any 
 service as a tonic to the stomach, the flavor of the cocoa would be so 
 influenced as to make it quite unpalatable, and as the hops have no 
 nutritive value, the addition is without beneficial results. The trcahncnt 
 of cocoa zi'ith potash is to be strongly condemned ^ as the slightly increased 
 solubility obtained is more than counter-balanced by the injurious efects 
 
THE HOUSE OE WALTER BAKER &- CO. 
 
 53 
 
 q/l/ie chemical upon the system, and those zcho value good health -vould 
 be well advised to leave such cocoas alone. Perhaps the most novel 
 departure of late years is the addition of kola to cocoa. Kola is a 
 powerful drug, and contains besides caffeine other potent nerve stimu- 
 lants of an unknown character. It is impossible to defend on hygienic 
 grounds the addition of such a powerful drug to an article of daily con- 
 
 THE TELPHERAfJK SYSTEM — FOR THE COXVEVAXCE OF CRUDE COCOA 
 FROM THE STOREHOUSES TO THE ROASTING ROOMS. 
 
 sumption, and though under medical advice, and in exceptional cases, 
 the increase of nerve stimulating properties which kola confers on cocoa 
 may be beneficial, yet to the masses such uncontrolled drugging may 
 be followed by serious consequences. Pure cocoa is so rich in good 
 dietetic properties that to interfere with the normal proportions of the 
 food principles is to notably decrease its nutritive value." 
 
 The simple process by which the natives of Central and South 
 America prepared a nutritious beverage from the seeds of the cocoa 
 
54 
 
 COCOA AXD CHOCOLATE. 
 
 tree has already been described. We will now refer briefly to the 
 modern method of manufacture as carried on in the Walter Baker estab- 
 lishment, in which the latest and most improved machinery and appli- 
 ances are used to improve the quality and cheapen the cost of production. 
 The selected cocoa beans are first cleaned from the dust and attached 
 particles which have come from various sources during the fermenta- 
 tion of the seeds. The machines for cleaning the beans are very 
 ingenious and effective, removing from the seed coat every trace of 
 
 foreign matter. 
 
 The cleaned seeds 
 are next roasted in the 
 most careful manner, 
 every precaution being 
 taken to secure a uni- 
 form effect through the 
 whole mass. During 
 the roasting the seeds 
 change color somewhat 
 and become moi'e or 
 less modified in taste. 
 In under- roasted seeds 
 the flavor is not fully 
 developed, while in 
 over-roasted seeds the pleasant taste is likely to become greatly im- 
 paired, or it may even be wholly replaced by a bitter and harsh flavor. 
 These relations of color and taste to the roasting of the seeds make 
 this portion of the manufacture one of the most delicate processes from 
 beginning to end. 
 
 By the roasting the shell becomes more readily detachable, and its 
 complete removal is the next step. The crushing of the seeds into 
 small fragments is easily accomplished ; and this is followed by a 
 thorough winnowing, by which the lighter shells are carried away by 
 
 PRIVATE OFFICE, MILL NO. 4. 
 
56 
 
 COCOA .4 AD CHOCOLATE. 
 
 themselves, leaving the clean fragments of the roasted seeds ready for 
 further manipulation. 
 
 Among the fragments can be detected minute and very tough bits of 
 tissue. These bits are the hardened germs, or rather portions of the 
 germs, and these are separated from the rest by an apparatus of 
 much simplicity and efficiency. 
 
 The clean shells are usually placed at once in packages for trans- 
 portation. They are extensively used for the domestic preparation 
 of a wholesome and very low-priced drink. This beverage contains 
 a fair proportion of the active principle of the chocolate seeds them- 
 selves, and the flavor is suggestive of chocolate. 
 
 The cleaned fragments constitute the so-called " cocoa nibs" of some 
 foreign markets, and in this state they are used for the preparation of 
 a simple decoction. But in this form they require to be boiled a good 
 while for the development of flavor, and it is, therefore, better to have 
 them treated beforehand in order to reduce the time of boiling ; and this 
 is all the more necessar}^ since 
 during the long boiling a part of 
 the more delicate aroma peculiar 
 to chocolate seeds is apt to be 
 
 OLD ENG1M-: AND 
 r.OlLKK ROOM. 
 
 ne of ilie new engines sliown 
 on page 71 ) 
 
THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER ^ CO. 
 
 57 
 
 In the preparation of chocolate, the fragments are ground by a com- 
 plicated mechanism until they attain the greatest degree of fineness, 
 and constitute a perfectly homogeneous mass or paste. If it is to be 
 a plain chocolate (which is put up in a blue wrapper with a yellow 
 label and known as " Baker's Chocolate" or " Premium No. i Choco- 
 late"), it goes directly into the molds for shaping it. 
 
 The molding is a noisy but interesting operation. The chocolate 
 
 THE XOOX HOUR. MILL NO. I. 
 
 cannot be pressed into molds, because it sticks to the presser ; it is, 
 therefore, shaken in. A plastic lump of the proper weight is placed 
 in a shallow mold. A number of these molds are put into a wooden 
 tray, placed upon a table, which is shaken automatically, causing the 
 metal molds to jump up and down in a very lively manner, and making 
 as much clatter as a regiment of cavalry crossing a bridge. Every 
 step of the process has to be watched with the most assiduous care. 
 When the plastic mass has been shaken into the mold so as to be per- 
 fectly uniform in shape and size, the pans are removed to the cooling 
 room. 
 
58 
 
 COCOA A AD CHOCOLATE. 
 
 If the chocolate is to be sweetened, a definite amount of the purest 
 sugar, previously pulverized, is added before the molding, and the 
 whole ground and commingled. If it is to be a vanilla chocolate, the 
 finest quality of Mexican vanilla beans (which are superior to those 
 grown elsewhere) are blended with the semi-fluid mass, and formed 
 in molds, as already described. 
 
 The variations in the process are innumerable, many of them com- 
 paratively unimportant when taken singly ; but to secure the best 
 
 WAI.TER HAKER & CO.'S TEAMS. 
 
 results it is important that each of these slight changes should be made 
 at just the right time and in the right way. 
 
 The manufacture of breakfast cocoa is based upon two important 
 factors : first, the removal of a definite portion of the cocoa-oil from 
 
THE HOUSE OE WALTER BAKER &- CO. 59 
 
 the roasted seeds ; and second, increasing the miscibility of the pow- 
 dered seeds by securing the greatest practicable degree of fineness. 
 
 While the oil of the chocolate seed is perfectly wholesome, there are 
 some persons who find in the percentage natural to the seeds an amount 
 too large for easy digestion. The removal of a part of this, which 
 might with propriety be called an excess of the oil, was practised even 
 in very early days, as is seen in the cut herewith given, taken from an 
 old work on the subject. 
 
 The method of manufacture is substantially as follows : the ground 
 fragments of roasted seeds are subjected to hydraulic pressure, by 
 which a certain amount of the fat is eliminated. 
 The pressed mass is, in the most successful 
 process, treated mechanically in such a man- 
 ner as to divide and subdivide the minute 
 particles until they are capable of passing 
 through a sieve having several thousand 
 meshes to the square inch. But such pulver- 
 ization as this would, under ordinary circum- , 
 stances, reduce the mass to a dull and unat- j ^^ 
 tractive powder. In the process devised by /^ 
 
 
 
 the Walter Baker Company, this high degree b' ^™^ 
 
 of fineness is secured without any loss of old press for remo\-- 
 
 ING EXCESS OF OIL. 
 
 brilliancy in the powder, — the color being 
 
 of the bright red which is not only attractive in appearance, but when 
 conjoined with the natural chocolate odor and flavor is characteristic 
 of absolutely pure cocoa of the highest grade. 
 
 It is instructive to compare such cocoa with the cocoas prepared 
 by w^hat is known as the Dutch process. The latter are prepared 
 "by treatment with alkaline matters, which act on the coloring sub- 
 stances in the seeds, increasing the apparent effect of hot water when 
 the latter is added. In chemically prepared cocoas, the exquisite 
 natural odor and flavor of pure cocoa seeds have been diminished 
 
6o 
 
 COCOA AXD CHOCOLATE. 
 
 or wholly lost by the severe treatment to which the materials have been 
 subjected. In some cases the loss of the natural flavor is sought to 
 be partially supplied by the use of fragrant gums, and other matters 
 wholly foreign to the natural product. 
 
 The detection of these admixtures is generally easy. Comparison 
 
 EXECUTIVE OFFICES, 45 BROAD STREET, }?OSTON. 
 
 with Baker's Breakfast Cocoa will reveal at once the vast superiorit}" of 
 a product which has not been treated by chemicals, but which contains 
 only the finest possible powder of the best chocolate seeds freed from 
 the excess of oil. The exquisite flavor and odor of the pure product 
 are due wholly to the seeds themselves, since absolutely no foreign 
 
THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER &- CO. 
 
 6l 
 
 matter is added from first to last. It can be used by students of the 
 microscope and of chemistry as a perfect type of the highest order of 
 excellence in manufacture. 
 
 Dr. H. C. Sawyer, in his valuable little book on "Nerve Waste," 
 says : — 
 
 "Baker's Breakfast Cocoa is a light preparation which can be 
 heartily recommended ; it contains only so much fat as can be digested 
 
 GROUP OF DEMONSTRATORS, WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD. 
 
 by almost any one, and is peculiar in not cloying or palling after a 
 time as so many cocoa preparations do. Such a beverage is far more 
 wholesome, and more agreeable, after one becomes used to it, than 
 tea, which is much over-used." 
 
 A recent article in the New York Polyclinic says : — 
 " It is not infrequent that chemists and physicians differ in opinion 
 as regards the use of certain food products and their influence upon 
 tissue metabolism ; but for many years they have agreed that cocoa 
 
THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER ^ CO. 
 
 63 
 
 (Jheobronia cacao) exerts an influence upon the human system that is 
 equaled by no other vegetable product. Careful analysis, combined 
 with extensive clinical experience, has shown beyond shadow of doubt 
 that it retards retrograde metamorphosis of the body tissues (tissue 
 waste), is far more nutritious and less directly stimulating to the ner- 
 vous system than either tea or coffee, and when the excess of oil {olemn 
 
 1'KKM:>KM s OFFKK, I'.OSTOX. 
 
 theobromis) has been removed, exerts a distinctive beneficial influence 
 upon the digestive functions. Such being the case, the use of a 
 thoroughly reliable preparation of cocoa should be universally en- 
 couraged, and it is the consensus of opinion among medical men as 
 well as laboratory workers that the breakfast cocoa manufactured by 
 
64 
 
 COCOA AND CHOCOLA TE. 
 
 Walter Baker & Co. Ltd., not only meets the indications, but accom- 
 plishes even more than is claimed for it." 
 
 The Dietetic and Hygienic Gazette says : — 
 
 " Walter Baker & Co., of Dorchester, Mass., U. S. A., have given 
 years of stud}- to the skilful preparation of cocoa and chocolate, and 
 have devised machinery and systems peculiar to their methods of treat- 
 ment, whereby the purity, palatability, and highest nutrient character- 
 istics are retained. Their preparations are known the 
 world over and have received the highest indorsements 
 from the medical practitioner, the nurse, 
 and the intelligent housekeeper and 
 caterer. There is hardly any food prod- 
 uct which may be so extensively used in 
 the household in combination with other 
 foods as cocoa and chocolate ; but here 
 again we urge the importance of purity 
 and nutrient value, and these important 
 points, we feel sure, may be relied upon 
 OFFICE BuiLnixG, DORCHESTEK. i" Bakcr's cocoa and chocolate." 
 
 The Dominion Medical Monthly, Toronto, Canada, says : — 
 "There are on the market to-day a large number of so-called co- 
 coas, all of them 'guaranteed' to be 'absolutely pure,' but many of 
 them adulterated. There are few articles which physicians hnd as 
 much use for as this preparation of the cacao nut, and one of the diffi- 
 culties which medical men have to overcome is to choose the pure from 
 the impure, choosing the former and discarding the latter. Many per- 
 sons declare firmly that tbey cannot digest cocoa, this being due to a 
 certain degree of oiliness present. Pure cocoa acts as a gentle stimu- 
 lant, and invigorates and corrects the action of the digestive organs, 
 furnishing the bod\- with some of the purest elements of nutrition. The 
 
THE HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER &^ CO. 65 
 
 firm of Walter Baker & Co. Ltd., of Dorchester, Mass., put up one 
 of the few really pure cocoas, and physicians are quite safe in specify- 
 ing their brand." 
 
 The American Homoeofathist says : — 
 
 "The need of a substitute for coffee in many nervous disorders, and 
 
 RRANXH HOUSE OF WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD. 
 FRANKLIN AND HUDSON STREETS, NEW YORK. 
 
 particularly where there are heart complications, has induced me to 
 give special recognition to the cocoa preparations, for all are not of 
 equal merit. The essentials of a proper production are found in the 
 well-known cocoa made by Walter Baker & Co., of Dorchester, Mass., 
 and in one or two others, but I give preference to the one named, be- 
 cause it is always and everywhere obtainable and is of uniform quality. 
 
66 
 
 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE 
 
 Its usefulness is not, however, restricted. In many cases of deticient 
 nutrition, it may be well prescribed as a food-drink with every meal." 
 
 The Maryland Medical Jotirnal says : — 
 
 " Physicians have long recognized the valuable dietary properties of 
 cocoa. When obtained free from any admixture of foreign matter, its 
 
 HRANXH HOUSI-: OF WAI.TKK MAKKK .»t CO., 38 AND 40 LAKE STREET, CHICAGO. 
 
 nutritive value cannot be overestimated, combining, as it does in proper 
 proportion the essentials of a perfect food — carbohydrates, albumi- 
 noids, mineral matters, and the active principle, theobromine. The 
 physiological effects of cocoa in certain constitutional derangements 
 are well known to practitioners in general, and when no violence is 
 done to the chemical properties of the different components in the 
 process of preparation a product at once comforting and nutritious is 
 
THE HOUSE OE WALTER BAKER &- CO. 67 
 
 obtained. The wholesomeness and efficienc}^ of the Walter Baker & Co.'s 
 Cocoa is due to a peculiar process in its manufacture, which preserves 
 the theobromine and nutritive portion without the use of chemicals, and 
 has more than three times the strength of other preparations mixed with 
 starch, arrowroot, or sugar. The long-standing reliability of this brand 
 of cocoa enables physicians to prescribe it with thorough confidence in 
 its highly valuable nutritive effects and full assurance of its purity and 
 wholesomeness." 
 
 The Health Alagazinc says : — 
 
 " A very large class of intelligent and right-thinking people through- 
 out the world are ready to testify to the nutritive properties of 
 Walter Baker & Co 's Breakfast Cocoa. The food value of this article 
 has so long been known to physicians and the public that it has become 
 in a great many homes a staple article of the dietary, not only for in- 
 valids, but for persons in health as well." 
 
 A DETAIL OF THE TELPHERAGE SYSTEM. 
 
SUGGESTIONS 
 
 RELATIVE TO 
 
 THE COOKING OF CHOCOLATE AND COCOA. 
 
 BV MRS. ELLEN H. RICHARDS, 
 Of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. 
 
 THE flavor of the cocoa bean seems to be almost universally liked, 
 and the use of the various preparations made from it is con- 
 stantly increasing. From the sweet chocolate with which the 
 traveler now provides himself in all journeys in which the supply of 
 food is doubtful either in quantit}^ or quality, to delicate coloring and 
 flavoring of cakes and ices, nearly all kinds of culinary preparations 
 have benefited by the abundance of this favorite substance. 
 
 In these forms, chocolate is used in a semi-raw state, the bean having 
 been simply roasted at a gentle heat, ground and mixed with sugar, 
 which holds the fat. By var3ing the quantity of the chocolate to be 
 mixed with the ingredients of the cake or ice, an unlimited variety of 
 flavors can be obtained. 
 
 In preparing it as a beverage for the table a mistake has been fre- 
 quently made in considering chocolate merely as a flavor, an adjunct 
 to the rest of the meal, instead of giving it its due prominence as a real 
 food, containing all of the necessary nutritive principles. A cup of 
 chocolate made with sugar and milk is in itself a fair breakfast. 
 
 There is much to be said in favor of preparations of the whole bean 
 which secure all of the valuable nutrition contained in this "food for 
 the gods," and rightly understood, it is possible to make them more 
 important articles of diet than they now are. But since the large per- 
 centage of fat seems to require correspondingly large quantities of 
 
 68 
 
SUGGESI70NS. 
 
 69 
 
 sugar to render the beverage palatable, and this very rich, sweet drink 
 soon cloys if made strong enough to be nutritious, it is, fortunately, 
 possible to extract the larger part of the fat without injury to the flavor 
 so characteristic of chocolate. In this form, called cocoa, less sugar 
 and more milk are needed, and the resulting beverage suits even 
 delicate stomachs, and is yet of high food value. 
 
 It is the object of all cooking to render raw material more palatable 
 and more nutritious, and therefore more digestible. The cooking of 
 cocoa and chocolate is no exception to this rule. Certain extractive 
 principles are soluble onlv in water which has reached the boilino- 
 point: and the starch, which the seed contains, is swollen only at this 
 temperature. 
 
 Chocolate or cocoa is not properly cooked by having boiling water 
 poured over it. It is true that as the whole powder is in suspension 
 and is swallowed, its food material can be assimilated as it is when the 
 prepared chocolate is eaten raw ; but in order to bring out the full, fine 
 flavor and to secure the most complete digestibility, the preparation, 
 whatever it be, should be subjected to the boiling point for a few 
 minutes. In this all connoisseurs are ao;reed. 
 
 B:5 ^..ii-^i' 
 
 WALTKK BAKKK iV CO.'S STOREHOUSES, MILTON. 
 
NEW POWER PLANT, 1906, WALTER 15AK.EK & CO. LTD. 
 
ONE OF THE EXtilXES IN THE POWER HOUSE. 
 
BAKER^S BREAKFAST COCOA. 
 
 In Yz lb. packages (tin). \2 packages in a boz. 
 
 This admirable preparation is made from selected cocoa, 
 from which the excess of oil has been removed. It is 
 absolutely pure, and it is soluble. It has more t/ian three 
 times the strength of cocoa mixed with starch, arrowroot, 
 or sugar, and is, therefore, far more economical, costing less 
 than one cent a cup. It is delicious, nourishing, strengthen- 
 ing, easily digested, and admirably adapted for invalids as 
 well as for persons in health. 
 No alkalies or other chemicals or dyes are used in its preparation. 
 Trade-mark on every package. 
 
 BAKER^S CHOCOLATE. 
 
 In Yz lb. cakes, I lb. packages, blue wrapper, yellow label. 
 It is the pure product of carefully selected cocoa beans, to which nothino- has 
 been added and from which nothing has been taken away. Unequaled for 
 
 •smoothness, delicacy, and natural riavor. Celebrated for more than a century 
 as a nutritious, delicious, and flesh-forming beverage. The high reputation and 
 
constantly increasing sales of this article have led to imitations on a very exten- 
 sive scale. To distinguish their product from these imitations Walter Baker ^: 
 Co. Ltd. have enclosed their pound packages in a new envelope or case of stiff 
 paper, different from any other package. The color of the case is the same 
 shade of deep blue heretofore used on the Baker packages, and no change has 
 been made in the color (yellow) and design of the label. On the outside of 
 the case, the name of the manufacturer is prominently printed in white letters. 
 On the back of every package a colored lithograph of the trade-mark, " La Belle 
 Chocolatiere," sometimes called the Chocolate Girl, is printed. Vigorous pro- 
 ceedings will be taken against any one imitating the package. 
 
 Trade-mark on every package. 
 
 BAKER^S VANILLA CHOCOLATE, 
 
 In Yx lb. and \ lb. packages, 
 is guaranteed to consist solely of choice cocoa and sugar, flavored with pure 
 vanilla beans. Particular care is taken in its preparation, and a trial will con- 
 vince one that it is really a delicious article for eating or drinking. It is the 
 
 p- 
 
 1 ^ 
 
 
 KJi^Jiki""'''""'" 
 
 
 OTT^ 
 
 
 ^"^^. 1 — 1 
 
 r^^Ar^r^ 
 
 best sweet chocolate in the market. Used at receptions and evening parties in 
 place of tea or coffee. Our choice Recipe book (sent free) contains a valuable 
 recipe for making the Chocolate with Whipped Cream. 
 
 Trade-mark on every package. 
 
 CARACAS SVEET CHOCOLATE. 
 
 In M lb. packages and 6 lb. boxes. 
 Unequaled for smoothness, delicacy, and flavor. The most 
 delicious and healthful article of food that can be carried by 
 golfers, bicyclists, tourists and students. 
 
 Trade-mark on every package. 
 
 CENTURY CHOCOLATE. 
 
 In % lb. packages. 
 A fine vanilla chocolate for eating or drinking. Put up in very artistic wrappers. 
 Trade-mark on every package. 
 
AUTO SWEET CHOCOLATE , 
 
 In }-6 lb. packages. 
 
 A fine eating chocolate, enclosed in an attractive wrapper with an embossed 
 representation of an automobile in colors. 
 
 Trade-mark on every package. 
 
 GERMAN SWEET CHOCOLATE. 
 
 In X and ^i lb. packages. 
 
 is one of the most popular sweet chocolates sold any- 
 where. It is palatable, nutritious, and healthful, and 
 is a great favorite with children. 
 
 Beware of imitations. The gefiuine is stamped " S. 
 Gennadi, Dorchester, MassT 
 Trade-mark on every package. 
 
 CRACKED COCOA> OR COCOA NIBS. 
 
 In ]2 and 1 lb. packages and in 6 and 10 lb. bags. 
 This is the freshly roasted bean cracked into small pieces. It contains no ad- 
 mixture, and presents the full flavor of the cocoa bean in all its natural fragrance 
 and purity. When properly prepared, it is one of the most economical drinks. 
 Dr. Lankester says cocoa contains as much flesh-forming matter as beef. 
 
 Trade-mark on every package. 
 
 CACAO PES AZTEQUES. 
 
 In boxes, 6 lbs. each ; Yz lb. bottles. 
 
 A compound formerly known as Racahout des Arahes ; a most nutritious prepa- 
 ration ; indispensable as an article of diet for children, convalescents, ladies, 
 and delicate or aged persons. It is composed of the best nutritive and restor- 
 ing substances, suitable for the most delicate system. It is now a fai'orite 
 breakfast beverage for ladies and young persons, to whom it gives freshness and 
 enibonpoint. It has solved the problem of medicine by imparting something 
 which is easily digestible and at the same time free from the exciting qualities of 
 coffee and tea, thus making it especially desirable for nervous persons or those 
 afflicted with weak stomachs. 
 
 It has a very agreeable flavor, is easily prepared, and has received the com- 
 mendation of eminent physicians as being the best article known for convales- 
 cents and all persons desiring a light, digestible, flourishing, and strengthefiing 
 food. 
 
 Trade-mark on every package. 
 
SOLUBLE CHOCOLATE. 
 
 This is a preparation for the special use of druggists and others in making 
 hot or cold soda. It forms the basis for a delicious, refreshing, nourishing, and 
 strengthening drink. 
 
 It is perfectly soluble. It is absolutely pure. It is easily made. It possesses 
 the full strength and natural Havor of the cocoa bean. No chemicals are used 
 in its preparation. 
 
 The directions for making one gal/on of syrup are as foUojus : — 
 
 8 ounces soluble chocolate. 
 8^ pounds white sugar. 
 2}^ quarts water. 
 
 Thoroughly dissolve the chocolate in hot water, then add the sugar, and heat 
 until the mixture boils. Strain while hot. After it has become cool, vanilla 
 may be added if desired. 
 
 The trade is supplied with I, 4, or 10 lb. decorated canisters. 
 Trade-mark on every package. 
 
 CHOCOLATES FOR CONFECTIONERS^ USE. 
 
 These chocolates have long been the synonym iox purity and excellence. To 
 meet the requirements of the trade, both light and dark chocolate coverings 
 have been prepared from selected cocoas^ which, on account of their uniformity, 
 purity., and flavor, are favorite brands with all the leading confectioners. 
 
 VANILLA TABLETS. 
 
 These are small pieces of chocolate, made from the finest nuts, and done up 
 in fancy foil. The packages are tied with colored ribbons, and are very attract- 
 ive in form and delicious in substance. They are much used for desserts and 
 collations, and at picnics and entertainments for young people. They are 
 strongly recommended by physicians as a healthy and nutritious confection for 
 children. 
 
 Trade-mark on every package. 
 
COCOA BUTTER. 
 
 In Yi lb. cakes. 
 
 One-half the weight of the cocoa bean consists of a fat called '• cocoa butter," 
 from its resemblance to ordinary butter. It is considered of great value as a 
 nutritious, strengthening tonic, being preferred to cod-liver oil and other nau- 
 seous fats so often used in pulmonary complaints. As a soothing application to 
 chapped hands and lips, and all irritated surfaces, cocoa butter has no equal, 
 making the skin remarkably soft and smooth. Many who have used it say they 
 would not for any consideration be without it. It is almost a necessary article 
 for every household. 
 
 Trade-mark on every package. 
 
 COCOA SHELLS. 
 
 In \ lb. packages. 
 
 Cocoa shells are the thin outer covering of the beans. They have a flavor 
 similar to but milder than cocoa. Their very low price places them within the 
 reach of all ; and as furnishing a pleasant and healthy drink, they are con- 
 sidered superior to tea and cotifee. 
 
 Packed ofily in i lb. papers, with our label and name on them. 
 
 Trade-mark on every package. 
 
Forty-eight highest awards have been received from 
 international and local expositions in Europe and 
 America during the past fifty-two years, of which the 
 following are the most noteworthy. 
 
 World's Fair, St. Louis (Grand Prize on all Cocoa 
 
 and Chocolate and Gold Medal on Installation) . . 1904 
 
 Dominion of Canada Industrial Exposition . . 1903 
 
 Pan-American Exposition, Buffalo 1901 
 
 Expositions Universelle, Paris . . 1868, 1878, 1900 
 
 Trans-Mississippi, Omaha 1898 
 
 Cotton States and International Exposition, 
 
 Atlanta 1895 
 
 Midwinter and International Exposition, San 
 
 Francisco 1894 
 
 World's Columbian Exposition, Chicago . . . 1893 
 
 International Fair, Detroit 1892 
 
 Exposition Provinciale, Quebec 1891 
 
 Massachusetts Charitable IMechanics Asso- 
 ciation, Boston 1853, 1878, 1890 
 
 World's Industrial and Cotton Centennial, 
 
 New Orleans 1884 
 
 Southern Exposition, Louisville 1883 
 
 Centennial Exposition, Philadelphia 1876 
 
 International Exposition, Vienna 1873 
 
 Industry of all Nations, New York .... 1S53 
 
 Franklin Institute, Philadelphia 1852 
 
 I 44 
 
Reduced facsimile of an attractive booklet of sixty-four pages, 
 with colored illustrations, sent/;r<? to any applicant. Address 
 
 WALTER BAKER & CO. LTD., 
 
 Dorchester, Mass. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
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