4- F-5 "^ r>\a.y\ S^ U*. -Ln'ft^ -^ y^- Figures 1 and 2 (see page 68). I'igure 3 (see pai;r <^^^tUcU >nx^J,-c^a^^<^f k^lUU h^y^^ frusp^r V\ii\\Vf i (sec l>:ii;i' T'i ). Facsimilks of Profile Sketch ks ix Pedko F'oxt's Diary. From the manuscript in the Bancroft Collection. Publications of the Academy of Pacific Coast History Vol. 3 No. i THE ANZA EXPEDITION OF 1775-1776 DIARY OF PEDRO FONT Edited by Frederick J. Teggart Associate Professor of Pacific Coast History, Utifversity of California Curator of the Academy of Pacific Coast History University of California Berkeley, California March, 1913 h C'OPl-EIGHT, 1913, BY The Academy of Pacific Coast History BERKELEY: THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS ;CI.A33298S INTRODUCTION The city of San Francisco was founded in 1776 by a body of settlers brought for the purpose from Sonora under the leader- ship of Lieutenant-colonel Juan Bautista de Anza. The chaplain of the expedition was Fray Pedro Font, who accompanied Anza from San Miguel de Horcasitas to San Francisco Bay and back, a journey which occupied from September 29, 1775, to June 1, 1776. The authorities for the incidents of the expedition consist of the diaries of Anza and Font, supplemented, at the beginning, by that of Fray Francisco Garces. Important and well known as they are, the diaries of Anza and Font have not hitherto been published in their original form. — unlike that of Garces which has appeared both in Spanish (Dociimentos para la Historia de Mexico, segunda serie, tomo I, Mexico, 1854, pp. 225-374.) and English {On the Trail of a Spanish Pioneer: the Diary and Itinerary of Francisco Garces . . . 1775-1776, translated by Elliott Coues, New York. 1900.). Excerpts from Father Font's diary, in translation, were included in the First Annual of the Territorial Pioneers of California, San Francisco, 1877, pp. 81-107. An extensive paraphrase of Anza's diary was published by Zoeth Skinner Eldredge in the Journal of American History, vols. 2 and 3, 1908-1909, and reprinted in his book. The Beginnings of San Francisco, San Francisco, 1912. ]\Ir. Eldredge 's narrative includes the details of the first expedition made by Anza over the route in 1774, as well as of the second in 1775 and 1776. The manuscript from which the present text ha.s been pi-iiih'd came into the possession of the University of California in June. 1897. by gift of j\Ir. Collis P. Huntington, as a part of the "Robert E. Cowan Collection." At an earlier period it formed part of the materials gathered by General H. W. Halleck for his unfinished History of California. [3] 4 Academy of Pacific Coast History, The manuscript consists of forty leaves, 8^ by 6% inches in size, written on both sides. It is entirely in Font 's handwriting, and is signed by him at the end. Of his diary Font drew up several different versions : a. The "Diario, 6 borrador, que fui escriviendo en el camino" — which he wrote on the way ; it consisted of twenty pliegos, pre- sumably eighty pages. b. The report which upon his return he sent to the Colegio de Santa Cruz de Queretaro; it consisted of nine pliegos, presum- ably thirty-six pages, and "coyitenia lo principal de este Diario." c. The University of California manuscript here printed; it is dated at the mission of Ures, June 23, 1776, and consists of forty numbered leaves, seventy-nine written pages; it was based on a, in his own words, "sacado del borrador." Both at the beginning and end of this version he states that it was written at Ures in the month of June, 1776. d. The John Carter Brown Library manuscript; it is dated at the mission of Tubutama, May 11, 1777, is an expansion of a, and consists of 336 numbered pages. Of a and b no copies are available ; of c there are copies in the Archivo General at the city of Mexico, and in the Real Academia de la Historia at Madrid, there was formerly a copy in the "Parish Church" of Guadalajara, Jalisco, and in the archives at Monterey, California ; of d there is a contemporary copy in the Library of Congress. Following the opinion of Professor George Davidson, some writers have shown a tendency to identify a and c. In face, however, of Font's positive statement that the latter was written at Ures, that it shows evidence of having all been written at one time, and that d contains sketch drawings which are not in c, the identification seems to be unwarranted. To account for the discrepancy in size between c and d, it has been assumed further that d is Font's "full diary or report"; the date and circum- stances under which it was written remove the possibility of its having been intended as a report. The last version was due to the fact that subsequent to his arrival at the mission of Tubutama on December 31, 1776, Father Font found himself without an appointment or definite occupation, and in this situation he [4] Diary of Pedro Font. 5 devoted himself to recopying his diary and elaborating it in detail. {En esta Mission me he mantenido desde entonccs, y por hallarme en ella sin especial ocupacion y destino, me he dedicado en sacar en limpio este Diario, que es puntualmente el mismo Diario, 6 horrador, que fui escriviendo en el camino, con la diferencia que aquel solo consta de veinte pliegos, y este es mayor por haver puesto aqui algunos apuntes de aquel con alguna extension y claridad.) It is regrettable that the mapa mentioned on page 6, the planta ichnographica mentioned on page 18, and the plan men- tioned on page 72, no longer accompanied the Diary when the latter was acquired by the University of California. Fortunately, however, three maps drawn by Font to accompany his Diary have been most satisfactorily reproduced by the John Carter Brown Library in a volume entitled: San Francisco Bay and California in 1776; . . . with an explanation hy Irving Berdine Rjchman, Providence, Rhode Island, 1911. In the present publication Font's manuscript has been scrupulously followed — it is only necessary to point out that the letters and words printed in italics are not required by the sense, and that the characters < > have been used to indicate the extensive marginal additions to the original draft. F. J. T. [5] DIARIO DEL FRAY PEDRO FONT Diario que forma el P. Fr. Pedro Font Pdo'"Ap<=o del Colegio de la S** Cruz de Queretaro, saeado del borrador que eserivio en N 5 el camino, del viage que hizo a ]\Ionterey y Puerto de S"^ Fran- cisco en Compaiiia del S'^ Theniente Coronel de Cavalleria Capi- tan del Presidio de Tubac, y Comandante de la expedicion de Conduccion de familias y soldados para el nuevo establecimiento de aquel Puerto, D'^ Juan Bautista de Anza, por orden y dis- posicion del Ex"^" S'* Theniente General Fr. D° Antonio Maria Bucareli, y Vrsua, Virrey, Governador, y Cap*^ Gen^ de esta Nueva Espana, comunicada al R<^° P. Guardian del Colegio de la S** Cruz de Queretaro Fr. Romualdo Cartagena por carta que le eseribio dada a 2. de Enero de 1775. y intimada a mi por dicho R. P. Guardian por carta, su fecha de 20. de Enero del mismo ano con eneargo de acompanar a dicho S"" Comandante en todo el viage y de observar las alturas del camino. Acompaiia a este diario un mapa de todo el viage, en el qual se senala con puntos el camino, se expressan por numeros las jornadas, y se distinguen por abececedario los lugares 6 parages particulares, de que se hace mencion en este diario. Todo hecho y trabajado de buelta del viage en esta Mission de Vres, por el mes de Junio del presente alio 1776. Advertencias Advierto que en las observaciones que pude hacer con el Quadrante Astronomico de la Expedicion, que traxo el S'" Coman- dante, calcule las alturas por unas tablas de D"^ Jorge Juan que casualmente pude adquirir, las quales por estar hechas para el meridiano de Cadiz, y para los afios de 1756. 1757. 1758. y 1759. necessitan de dos correcciones : y aunque las alturas que apunto, [6] DIARY OF PEDRO FONT Diary of Father Pedro Font, apostolic preacher of the Colegio de la Santa Cruz de Queretaro, copied from the notes that he kept on the way, of the journey which he made to Monterey and the port of San Francisco in company with Don Juan Bautista de Anza, lieutenant-colonel of cavalry, captain of the presidio of Tubac, and commander of the expedition for conducting families and soldiers to the new settlement at that port, by order and dis- position of His Excellency Frey Don Antonio Maria Bucareli y Ursua, lieutenant-general, viceroy, governor, and captain-general of Nueva Espaiia, communicated to the reverend father-guardian of the Colegio de la Santa Cruz de Queretaro, Father Romualdo Cartagena, by letter dated January 2, 1775, and made known to me by the father-guardian in letter dated January 20th of the same year, with instructions to accompany the said commander during the whole of the journey, and to take observations for latitude on the road. A map of the entire journey accompanies this diary; on it the road is marked by dots, the marches are expressed by numbers, and the particular spots or places mentioned in this diary are distinguished by letters of the alphabet. The whole done and executed, on the return from the expedition, at this mission of Ures, in the month of June of the present year, 1776. Remarks I wish to point out that in the observations that I was able to take with the astronomical quadrant belonging to the expedition, which the commander carried, I calculated the latitudes by some tables of Don Jorge Juan that, by chance, I was able to obtain. As these tables are for the meridian of Cadiz, and for the years 1756, 1757, 1758, and 1759, they require two corrections; and although the latitudes I set down are in accordance with the [7] 8 Academy op Pacific Coast History. estan segun las observaciones que hize y procurando emplear en las tablas las dos correceiones necessarias para el calculo ; expresso la altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol que apunto dicho Quadrante en todas las observaciones para mayor satisfaccion de los inteligentes. Advierto tambien que en quanto a los rumbos del camino puedo haver tenido alguna equivoeacion por quanto no pude adquirir una brujula buena, y solo en S'^ Xavier del Bac pude lograr que se me prestasse de aquella mission una bruxula muy pequena y mala que apenas governaba: por lo qual aunque en quanto a los rumbos que apunto puse el mayor euydado ; no tengo de ellos total satisfaccion por falta de instrumento y aun he procurado corregirlos algo para sacar el mapa respecto a las alturas observadas. Finalmente advierto que en quanto a las leguas que apunto, las he calculado por una legua medida que anduve segun el passo de las marchas, y son leguas Mexicanas de cinco mil varas 6 tres mil passos geometricos, todas las que he regulado en el viage, de las quales 28, componen un grado de latitud por tierra, y por el ayre 23. y %. correspondientes a las 17. y 1/2 espanolas por el ayre y 21. por tierra, que componen un grado segun el P. [8] Diary of Pedeo Font. 9 observations that I made, endeavoring to employ in the tables the two corrections necessary for the calculation, I record in all the observations the meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, as given by the quadrant, for the greater satisfaction of the learned. I wish to state, furthermore, that there may have been some inaccuracy regarding the directions of the roads because I was unable to get a good compass, and could only obtain a poor, small one, which hardly worked, as a loan from San Xavier del Bac. For this reason, although I used the greatest care in observing the directions which I set down, I am not entirely satisfied with them on account of the defective instrument, and have even tried to correct them in order to make the map in accordance with the latitudes observed. Finally, I wish to state regarding the leagues which I set down, that I have calculated them according to a measured league which I walked at a marching pace; they are Mexican leagues of five thousand yards or three thousand geometric paces — all of which I estimated on the journey. Twenty-eight such leagues consti- tute one degree by land or twenty-three and one-third in an air-line, corresponding to the seventeen and one-half Spanish leagues by land or twenty-one in an air-line, which constitute a degree according to Father Tosea, volume 8, tractate 24, book 1, chapter 4, prop. 23. Spanish leagues consist of four thousand geometric paces or 6666 yards and % or [2] feet, according to Father Flores in his Clave Geogrdfica, chapter 3, section 3, number 125. [9] 10 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas Dj^ 29. de Setiembre de 1775. Junta ya lo mas de la gente, Leguas 1 requas, y cavallada de la Expedicion, cuyo numero no apunto por no haver podido lograr saberlo. se canto la missa para el feliz viage a la SS™^ Virgen de Guadalupe que fue elegida por nuestra patrona, con el Principe S° Miguel, y N. P. S*^ Fran- cisco, y despues de missa se empezo a disponer la marcha, que por ser el primer dia no se efectuo hasta las quatro y media de la tarde que salimos del Presidio de S" Miguel de Orcasitas y poco despues de las cinco paramos cerca del rio al otro lado haviendo caminado una legua corta con rumbo al noroeste. i Dia 30. Salimos del cerca del rio de S° Miguel a las nueve 2 de la mailana y despues de medio dia llegamos al parage de Chupisonora, haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas, con rumbo 4 al nornoroeste. Dia 1. de Octubre nos detuvimos por no haver Uegado una requa que ayer se atrasso. 3 Dia 2. Salimos de Chupisonora a las dos de la tarde, y a las seys llegamos al parage de la Palma, haviendo caminado cinco 5 leguas, con rumbo al nornoroeste. . Dia 3. Salimos de la Palma a las siete y tres quartos de la mauana, y cerca la una de la tarde llegamos al parage del Charco del Canelo, haviendo caminado seys leguas, con rumbo al nor- 6 noroeste. Dia 4. Salimos del Charco del Canelo, a las siete y media, de la maiiana, y a la una de la tarde paramos en el Puerto de los Conejos, haviendo caminado, unas seys leguas largas, con q rumbo al nornoroeste. g Dia 5. Salimos del Puerto de los Conejos a las ocho y media de la manana, y a las dos de la tarde paramos en el Charco de Gauna, haviendo caminado unas siete leguas largas, con rumbo 7 al nornoroeste. y Dia 6. Salimos del Charco de Gauna a las ocho y media de la maiiana, y al medio dia llegamos a orillas del rio del Pueblo de S^* Ana, haviendo caminado cinco leguas, con rumbo al nor- 5 noroeste. Dia 7. Nos detuvimos por haverse quedado atras tres sol- dados buscando unas mulas cargadas. Observe la altura de este [10] Diary of Pedro Font. . 11 September 29, 1775. — ]\Io.st of the people, pack-animals, and 1775 horses of the expedition now being collected — the number of "^T^ them I do not put down, as I did not succeed in ascertaining it — the mass to the ^lost Blessed Virgin of Guadalupe was sung for a successful journey. Here we chose for our patron, together wuth the archangel St. Michael, and St. Francis, our father. After mass, preparations were completed for the march, which was not begun until half -past four in the afternoon, as this was the fii-st day. We set out from the presidio of San Miguel de Horcasitas, and, a little after five, halted near the river on the other side, having travelled one short league to the northwest. September 30. — "We set out from the vicinity of the Rio de San Miguel at nine in the morning, and arrived, after midday, at Chupisonora, having travelled some four leagues to the north- northwest. October 1. — We remained here today, because some pack- Oct. animals which were delayed yesterday did not arrive. October 2. — We set out from Chupisonora at two in the after- noon, and, at six, arrived at La Palma, having travelled five leagues to the north-northwest. October 3. — We set out from La Palma at a quarter to eight in the morning, and, about one in the afternoon, arrived at the Charco del Canelo, having travelled six leagues to the north- northwest. October 4. — We set out from the Charco del Canelo at half- past seven in the morning, and, at one in the afternoon, halted in the Puerto de los Conejos, having travelled some six long leagues to the north-northwest. October 5. — We set out from the Puerto de los Conejos at half-past eight in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, halted at the Charco de Gauna, having travelled some seven long leagues to the north-northwest. October 6. — We set out from the Charco de Gauna at half- past eight in the morning, and, at noon, arrived at the banks of the river of the town of Santa Ana, having travelled five leagues to the north-northwest. October 7. — We remained here, becau.se three soldiers had to stay behind to look for some loaded mules. I observed the lati- [11] 12 Academy op Pacific Coast History. jornadas Pueblo COD cl Quadrante astronomico de la expedicion y lo halle ^eguas en 30? 38: I/2. Y assi digo : En el Pueblo de Santa Ana dia 7. de Oetubre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol 53? 28: g Dia 8. Salimos del Pueblo de S'* Ana a las nueve y media de la manana, y a las dos de la tarde paramos en S** Maria Mada- lena, Pueblo de Visita de la Mission de S"^ Ygnacio haviendo eaminado unas seys leguas, eon rumbo al nordeste quarta al este. 6 9 Dia 9. Salimos del Pueblo de S''^ Maria Madalena a las nueve de la maiiana, y a las diez y media llegamos a la Mission de S'^ Ygnacio, haviendo eaminado dos leguas, con rumbo al 2 nordeste quarta al este. Dia 10. Nos detuvimos en esta mission para componerse unas cargas de bastimento. Observe la altura de esta Mission, y la halle en 30? 47: I/2. Y assi digo : En la Mission de San Ygnacio, dia 10. de Oetubre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol: 52? 10: 10 Dia 11. Salimos de S"^ Ygnacio a las diez y media de la maiiana, y a la una y media de la tarde paramos a la orilla del rio, al otro lado mas alia del Pueblo de Ymuris, visita de S° Ygnacio, haviendo eaminado quatro leguas al nornordeste. 4 Dia 12. Salimos del rio del Pueblo de Ymuris a las ocho y media de la maiiana, y a la una de la tarde paramos en el Guam- but antes de entrar en el caxon haviendo eaminado quatro leguas 4 con rumbo al nornoroeste. Dia 13. Salimos del Guambut a las ocho de la manana, y a la una de la tarde paramos en el Sibuta haviendo eaminado quatro leguas con rumbo al norte y muy despacio en el caxon 4 del Guambut por ser passo de riesgo de apaches. ,g Dia 14. Salimos del Sibuta a las ocho de la maiiana, y a las tres de la tarde paramos en el parage llamado las Lagunas, haviendo eaminado unas ocho leguas largas eon el rumbo quatro 8 al noroeste y quatro al nornoroeste. [12] Diary of Pedro Font. 13 tude of this town with the astronomical quadrant of the expedi- 1775 tion and found it to be 30° SSi/o' ; so I say : In the town of Santa ^^^ Ana, October 7, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 53° 28'. October 8. — "We set out from the town of Santa Ana at half- past nine in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, halted at Santa ]\Iaria Magdalena, a town of visitation from the mission of San Ignacio, having travelled some six leagues, northeast by- east. October 9. — We set out from the town of Santa Maria Mag- dalena at nine in the morning, and, at half-past ten, arrived at the mission of San Ignacio, having travelled two leagues, north- east by east. October 10. — We remained at this mission in order to re- arrange some packs of provisions. I observed the latitude of this mission and found it to be 30° 47i^' ; so I say : In the mission of San Ignacio, October 10, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 52° 10'. October 11. — We set out from San Ignacio at half-past ten in the morning, and, at half-past one in the afternoon, halted beside the river, on the farther bank from the town of Imuris, a place of visitation from San Ignacio, having travelled four leagues to the north-northeast. October 12. — We set out from the river of the town of Imuris at half-past eight in the morning, and, at one in the afternoon, halted at El Guambut, before entering the canyon, having trav- elled four leagues to the north-northwest. October 13. — We set out from El Guambut at eight in the morning, and, at one in the afternoon, halted at El Sibuta, having travelled four leagues to the north, and very slowly through the canyon of El Guambut, as it is a dangerous pass on account of the Apaches. October 14. — We set out from El Sibuta at eight in the morning, and, at three in the afternoon, halted at a place called Las Lagunas, having travelled some eight long leagues : four to the northwest and four to the north-northwest. [13] 14 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas Dia 15. Salimos de las Lagunas a las ocho de la manana, y ^eguas , . a las dos de la tarde llegamos al Presidio de Tubac, haviendo caminado unas oclio leguas, con el rumbo al norte. 8 Dia 16. Nos detuvimos unos dias en Tubac, (yo en la Mission de Tumacacori, distante del Presidio una legua al sur) para prevenir lo necessario para la prosecucion del viage, y acabar de juntarse la gente que havia de ir a la expedicion. Dia 17. Se ocupo en esse negocio. Dia 18. Se empleo en lo mismo. Dia 19. Se gasto en lo mismo. Dia 20. Se passo del mismo modo. Dia 21. Fui al Presidio de Tubac en compania del P. Fr. Francisco Garces, y su companero el P. Fr. Thomas Eixarch, que se agregaron con nosotros para quedarse en el Rio Colorado a explorar las voluntades de aquellas Naciones que habitan en sus vegas, segun lo dispuesto por el Ex™° S'' Virrey. Observe la altura de este Presidio ; pero por estar el dia opaco no quede satis- fecho de la observacion. Dia 22. Se canto la missa para el feliz viage de la expedi- cion. Bolvi a observar por ser el dia claro, y halle a este Pre- sidio en altura de 31? 43: Y assi digo: En el Presidio de Tubac, dia 22. de Octubre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol: 46° 50: Se acabo de juntar la gente, que havia de ir a la expedicion, requas, cavallada, y ganado, de cuyas partidas no apunto el numero, porque no pude lograr saberlo, y se determino proseguir el viage el dia siguiente. Dia 23. Salimos de Tubac a las onze de la maiiana, y a las tres y media de la tarde paramos en el parage llamado la Canoa, haviendo caminado unas cinco leguas, con el rumbo nornordeste. 5 Esta noche pario una muger de un soldado, y se murio de sobre- parto, y al otro dia se llevo a enterrar Dia 3. Salimos del Pueblo de Sutaquison a las nueve y tres quartos de la maiiana, y a medio dia llegamos a una laguna de agua mala, que por havernos enfermado algunos en ella, la llama- mos la Laguna del Hospital, haviendo caminado dos leguas con el 2 rumbo casi al noroeste. Como al poniente de este parage esta una sierra que va para el norte y remata a cosa de tres leguas, en cuyo [22] 25 Diary op Pedro Font. 23 distinguishable. Finally, it can be seen that the building was of 1775 three stories, and if there is any truth in what we could elicit ^^^ from the Indians, and from the vestiges that we saw, it had four, the floor of the house being deepened into a cellar. To light the rooms there is nothing but the doors, and some round holes in the middle of the walls that face east and west — the Indians said that through these holes, which are fairly large, the prince, whom they call ''the bitter man," used to watch the sun at its rising and setting in order to salute it. No signs of stairs remain, and we therefore suppose that they must have been of wood, and that they were destroyed when the Apaches set the buildings on fire. November 1. — We set out from La Laguna at half -past nine iVov. in the morning, and, at one in the afternoon, arrived at the town of San Juan Capistrano de Uturituc, having travelled four leagues to the west-northwest. The Indians, whom I estimated at about a thousand souls, received us drawn up in two files — the men on one side and the women on the other — and when we alighted, they all came in turn to salute us and to give us their hands — first the men, and then the women — and manifested great pleasure at seeing us. They lodged us in a large shelter of boughs that they constructed on purpose, and, heathen as they were, planted a large cross in front of it, and then brought water to the camp for the people. November 2. — This being All Souls' Day, we, the three religious, said nine masses. We set out from the town of Uturi- tuc at eleven o'clock in the morning, and, about three in the afternoon, halted at the banks of the Rio Gila, near the town of Encarnacion de Sutaquison, having travelled some four leagues, west by north. The Indians of the town, whom I estim- ated at about five hundred souls, came out to receive and salute us with demonstrations of great pleasure. On the way, we passed through two other towns. November 3. — We set out from the town of Sutaquison at a quarter to ten in the morning, and, at noon, arrived at a pond of bad water, (as some of us were made sick by it, we gave it the name of Laguna del Hospital), having travelled two leagues almost northwest. Toward the west of this place there is a moun- tain range which runs to the north, and ends at a distance of [23] 24 Academy of Pacific Coast History. remate se junta mas abajo el rio Gila con el rio de la Assumpcion ^®^*^ que es grande, y unos tres tantos mayor que el Gila. Dia 4. Por ser dia de San Carlos y fiesta de nuestro Monarca eantamos la missa con la solemnidad possible. Sobre medio dia se dispuso el marchar y no se hizo por haverse enfermado una muger. Dia 5. Nos detuvimos por no poder seguir la enferma ; y al anochecer se enfermo otra. Observe la altura de este parage, y lo halle en 33? 14: i/2- ^ assi digo : En la Laguna del Hospital, dia 5. de Noviembre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo in- ferior del Sol : 40? 40: Dia 6. Siguieron malas las enfermas, por cuyo motivo nos detuvimos : y a medio dia cayo otra ; y yo, a mas de la enf ermedad con que venia, oy empeze con las tercianas. 26 Dia 7. Amanecieron aliviadas las enfermas. Salimos de la Laguna del Hospital a la una de la tarde y a las seys y quarto paramos en un Arroyo seco, haviendo caminado unas seys leguas 6 con rumbo como una al sudoeste, dos al oestsudoeste y lo restante al oeste. 27 Dia 8. Salimos del Arroyo seco a las ocho y media de la manana, y a las quatro de la tarde paramos a la orilla del rio, en la Poblacion de Opas llamada San Simon y Judas de Vparsoytae, haviendo caminado unas nueve leguas, con rumbo, dos al oestsud- oeste, una al oeste para passar un puerto de una serrania, y lo restante al oestsudoeste con alguna declinacion al oeste. Estos Yndios Opas de Vparsoytae, cuyos enemigos que les hacian guerra son los de la nacion llamada Nanaxi y confina con los Apaches, se manifestaron muy mansos, y nos recibieron bien. Dia 9. Haviendo llegado la cavallada muy estropeada de la Jornada de ayer, por haver salido enferma de la Laguna del hos- pital se determino descansar oy. Se repartio abalorio y tabaco a los Yndios, y regule que se juntarian como mil almas. [24] Diary of Pedro Font. 25 three leagues ; beyond this termination, and farther down stream, 1775 the Rio Gila joins with the Rio de la Asuncion, which is large, ^^ and about three times as great as the Gila. November 4. — This being the day of San Carlos, and the festival of our monarch, we sang the mass with all possible solemnity. It was decided to march after midday, but this was not done as a woman fell sick. November 5. — We remained here because the sick woman could not proceed; and at nightfall another was taken ill. I observed the latitude of this place and found it to be 33° 14i/^' ; so I say : At the Laguna del Hospital, November 5, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 40° 40'. November 6. — The women patients continued ailing, conse- quently we remained here. At noon another woman fell sick; and I myself, in addition to the ailment that I had previously, was taken today with the ague. November 7. — This morning the sick women were feeling better. We set out from the Laguna del Hospital at one o'clock in the afternoon, and, at a quarter past six, halted at a dry watercourse, having travelled some six leagues: about one to the southwest, two to the west-southwest, and the remainder to the west. November 8. — We set out from the dry watercourse at half- past eight in the morning, and, at four o'clock in the afternoon, halted beside the river, in the Opa town called San Simon y Judas de Uparsoitac, having travelled some nine leagues : two to the west-southwest, one to the west (in order to pass through a gap in the range), and the remainder to the west-southwest with some deviation to the west. These Opa Indians of Uparsoitac, — whose enemies that Avere making war upon them are called Nanaxi and are neighbors of the Apaches — showed themselves very docile, and received us well. November 9. — The horses arrived very lame from yesterday's march, as they were sick when they left the Laguna del Hos- pital ; it was decided, therefore, to rest today. Beads and tobacco were distributed to the Indians — I estimated that they numbered about a thousand souls. [25] 28 29 30 31 26 Academy op Pacific Coast History. joraadas Dia 10. Nos detuvimos por haver amanecido muy mala una Leguas muger y un soldado. Dia 11. Salimos de la Poblacion de Vparsoytac a las diez de la manana, y cerca de medio dia llegamos a unas rancherias de Opas situadas a orillas del rio, haviendo eaminado unas dos ^ leguas eortas, con el rumbo al oeste. Dia 12. Salimos de las rancherias de Opas, a las nueve y media de la manana, y a las dos de la tarde paramos a orillas del rio en unos ranchos, que por ser dia de San Diego los llamamos, la Raneheria de San Diego, haviendo eaminado cinco leguas, con ^ rumbo al oeste quarta al noroeste. Dia 13. Salimos de la Raneheria de San Diego a las nueve y quarto de la maiiana, y eomo a la una y media de la tarde paramos en un parage llamado Aritoac poco despues de haver vadeado el rio, haviendo eaminado unas quatro leguas con rumbo 4 al oeste, quarta al sudoeste. Dia 14, Salimos del Aritoac a las nueve de la manana, y como a la una de la tarde llegamos al parage del Agua Caliente, haviendo eaminado quatro leguas con rumbo al oestsudoeste. Dia 15. Se determino detenernos oy para que descansara la cavallada, que venia fatal por falta de pastos. Se juntaron a vernos muchos Yndios Cocomaricopas, que son lo mismo que Opas, y el S'" Comandante en nombre del Rey nuestro Sefior dio el titulo y vara de Governador de toda la nacion a un Yndio que eilos mismos eligieron, y le pusimos por nombre Carlos, y a otro elegido por ellos, que llamamos Francisco, la vara de Alcalde, a los quales los demas Yndios concurrentes saludaron por su turno dandoles la mano, luego que fueron confirmados en sus empleos : y despues se repartio a todos tabaco y abalorio, y se intitulo este parage y su governacion San Bernardino del Agua Caliente. Ob- serve la altura de este parage (aunque el dia estaba bastante nebuloso) y lo halle en 33? 2: I/2. Y assi digo: En el Agua Cali- ente, dia 15. de Noviembre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del Sol: 38? 4: Los indios que aqui se juntaron y vi, regule que serian como doscientas almas. Dia 16. Salimos del Agua caliente a las nueve y media de la manana, y a las quatro y media de la tarde paramos Cerca del [26] 32 Diary of Pedro Font. 27 November 10. — "We remained here today as this morning a 1775 woman and a soldier were found to be very sick. ^r^^ November 11. — We set out from the town of Uparsoitac at ten o'clock in the morning, and, about midday, arrived at some Opa villages situated on the banks of the river, having travelled some two short leagues to the west. November 12. — We set out from the Opa villages at half-past nine in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, halted on the banks of the river at some ranches which, because it was St. James's day, we called the Rancheria de San Diego, having travelled fiv^ leagues, west by north. November 13. — We set out from the Rancheria de San Diego at a quarter past nine in the morning, and, about half-past one in the afternoon, halted, shortly after fording the river, at a place called Aritoac, having travelled some four leagues, west by south. November 14. — We set out from Aritoac at nine in the morn- ing, and, about one in the afternoon, arrived at Agua Caliente, having travelled four leagues to the west-southwest. November 15. — It was decided to remain here today in order to rest the horses, as they had suffered greatly from lack of pas- ture. Many Cocomaricopa Indians gathered to see us; they are the same as the Opas. The commander, in the name of the king, our master, conferred the title and baton of governor of the whole nation upon an Indian whom they themselves chose, and named him Carlos; to another one chosen by them, whom we called Francisco, he gave the baton of alcalde. "When these were confirmed in their appointments, the other Indians present saluted them in turn, giving them their hands. Afterwards, tobacco and beads were distributed among all, and this place with its jurisdic- tion was entitled San Bernardino del Agua Caliente. I observed the latitude of this place (although the day was very cloudy) and found it to be 33° 2I/2'; so I say: At Agua Caliente, November 15, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 38° 4'. The Indians that gathered here, and that I saw, I estimated might be about two hundred souls. November 16. — We set out from Agua Caliente at half -past nine in the morning, and, at half-past four in the afternoon, [27] 28 Academy of Pacific Coast History. Jomadas rio, haviendo caminado unas nueve leguas, con rumbo al oestsud- ^^eguas oeste. 9 33 Dia 17. Salimos de Cerca del rio, como a las diez de la manana, y a medio dia paramos en la Orilla del rio, haviendo caminado unas dos leguas con rumbo al oestsudoeste. 2 34 Dia 18. Salimos de la Orilla del rio a las diez de la manana, y como a las dos de la tarde paramos cerca del rio al pie del Cerro de S'^ Pasqual, haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas con 4 rumbo al sudoeste. A mitad del camino vadeamos segunda vez el rio. Dia 19. Esta noche passada pario una muger, por lo qual nos detuvimos oy. Observe este parage y lo halle en altura de 32? 48: Y assi digo : En el Cerro de San Pasqual, dia 19. de Noviem- bre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del Sol : 37? 20: Dia 20. Nos detuvimos, por no poder caminar la muger recien parida. Dia 21. No caminamos oy porque la muger que pario, aun no se podia poner en camino. Bolvi a observar este parage, y lo halle en la misma altura que el dia 19. 35 Dia 22. Amanecio la parida aliviada, y se determine seguir el viage. Salimos del cerro de San Pasqual a las onze y media, de la manana y a las quatro y media de la tarde paramos a orillas del rio al pie de un cerrito que los Yndios llaman del metate y nosotros llamamos Cerro de Santa Cecilia, haviendo caminado unas seys leguas largas, con rumbo al sudoeste. 6 Dia 23. Haviendo salido las requas se mando que bolviessen, porque eran mas de las onze y aun no se havia podido juntar la eavallada que se havia desparramado por falta de zacate, por lo qual nos detuvimos oy. Dia 24. Amanecio mala una muger preiiada, por lo qual nos quedamos aqui este dia. Observe la altura de este parage y lo halle en 32? 39: Y assi digo : En el Cerro de Santa Cecilia del Metate, dia 24. de Noviembre de 1775. Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol : 36? 24: [28] Diary op Pedro Font, 29 halted near the river, having travelled some nine leagues to 1775 the west-southwest. ' — • — ' November 17. — We set out from the vicinity of the river about ten o'clock in the morning, and, at midday, halted beside the river, having travelled some two leagues to the west-southwest. November 18. — We set out from the bank of the river at ten o'clock in the morning, and, about two in the afternoon, halted near the river at the foot of the Cerro de San Pascual; having travelled some four leagues to the southwest. Midway of the road we forded the river a second time. November 19. — Last night a woman Avas delivered, and for this reason we remained here today. I observed the latitude of this place, and found it to be 32° 48'; so I say: At the Cerro de San Pascual, November 19, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 37° 20'. November 20. — "We remained, because the woman just de- livered was unable to travel. November 21. — We did not go forward today, because the woman who was delivered could not as yet take the road. I observed the latitude of this place again, and found it the same as on the 19th. November 22. — This morning the mother was better, and it was decided to continue the journey. We set out from the Cerro de San Pascual at half-past eleven in the morning, and, at half- past four in the afternoon, halted on the banks of the river at the foot of a hill that the Indians call El ]\Ietate, and we call Cerro de Santa Cecilia, having travelled some six long leagues to the southwest. November 23. — After the pack-animals had set out, the order was given for them to return, because it was after eleven o'clock and the horses had not been collected — they had scattered because of the scarcity of pasture. We therefore remained here today. November 24. — This morning a pregnant woman was ill, and for this reason we stayed here today. I observed the latitude of this place and found it to be 32° 39' ; so I say : At the Cerro de Santa Cecilia del ]\Ietate, November 24, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 36° 24'. [29] 37 30 Academy op Pacific Coast History. jornadas Dia 25. Salimos del Cerro de Santa Cecilia del metate a las Leguas ^^ nueve y tres quartos de la manana, y como a las dos de la tarde paramos en la orilla de una Laguna salobre distante del rio como una legua, haviendo caminado unas cinco leguas con rumbo al 5 oeste quarta al noroeste. Salio al camino a encontrarnos un Yndio Yuma a cavallo, embiado del Capitan Palma para decirnos como nos esperaba de paz con toda su gente Yuma, y los Jalclie- dunes, que baxaron a la junta de los rios a vernos en virtud de un recado que se les embio desde el agua caliente. Dia 26. Salimos de la Laguna salobre a las diez y quarto de la mailana, y a las dos de la tarde paramos a la orilla del rio, haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas con rumbo al noroeste. 4 Dia 27, Salimos de la orilla del rio a las nueve y media de ^^ la manana, y cerca las doze paramos en un Puerto por donde passa el rio Gila recogido, haviendo caminado unas dos leguas, con 2 rumbo al oestnoroeste. En el camino salio a recibirnos un pa- riente del Capitan Palma, y luego que paramos vino a vernos el mismo Capitan Salvador Palma, y otro capitan que le pusimos por nombre Pablo acompanados de varios Yndios Yumas, y nos saludaron con muchas demonstraciones de contento. Dia 28, Salimos del Puerto y orillas del Gila, a las nueve y quarto de la maiiana, y a las dos de la tarde paramos en la Playa del rio Colorado despues de vadear tercera vez el rio Gila, ha- viendo caminado unas cinco leguas con rumbo al oeste quarta al 5 sudoeste. Nos hospedaron los Yumas, en una ramada que aqui havia mandado hacer el capitan Palma luego que supo nuestra venida, y acudieron muchos yndios de ambos sexos a visitarnos muy festivos y alegres. Como una legua mas aba jo de este parage se junta el rio Gila con el rio Colorado. Dia 29. Se busco vado al rio Colorado, y haviendose hallado y se abrio camino en el bosque y alameda de sus vegas, para vadearlo el dia siguiente. 40 Dia 30. Despues de missa se fue para su tierra el Gover- nador de los Cocomaricopas Carlos, que vino con nosotros a con- firmar las paces con los Yumas y se volvio muy contento. Salimos [30] 39 Diary of Pedro Font. 31 November 25. — We set out from the Cerro de Santa Cecilia 1775 del ]\Ietate at a quarter to ten in the morning, and, at about two ^j in the afternoon, halted beside a brackish pond about a league from the river, having travelled some five leagues, west by north. A Yuma Indian on horseback came to meet us on the road; he was sent by the chief Palma to tell us that he was waiting for us in peace, with all his Yumas and the Jalchedunes, who had come down to the junction of the rivers to see us in consequence of a message sent to them from Agua Caliente. November 26. — We set out from the brackish pond at a quar- ter past ten in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, halted beside the river, having travelled some four leagues to the north- west. November 27. — We set out from the bank of the river at half- past nine in the morning, and, about twelve, halted at a pass through which the Rio Gila runs narrowed, having travelled some two leagues to the west-northwest. A relative of the chief Palma came out to meet us on the road, and, as soon as we halted, the chief, Salvador Palma himself, came to see us, and another chief, to whom we gave the name of Pablo, accompanied by sev- eral young Indians; they greeted us with many demonstrations of pleasure. November 28. — We set out from the pass and the banlcs of the Gila at a quarter past nine in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, halted on the shore of the Rio Colorado after fording the Rio Gila for the third time, having travelled some five leagues, west by south. The Yumas lodged us in a shelter of boughs that the chief Palma had ordered to be made here as soon as he knew of our coming. Many Indians of both sexes came to visit us, very festive and elated. About a league down stream from this place, the Rio Gila joins the Rio Colorado. November 29. — Search was made for a ford in the Rio Colo- rado, and when it was found a road was cut through the under- brush and trees along the banks, with the object of crossing on the following day. November 30. — After mass, Carlos, the governor of the Coco- maricopas, who had come with us to ratify peace with the Yumas, returned very contented to his home. We set out from the shore [31] 32 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jomadas de la Playa del rio Colorado a las nueve de la mafiana, y a la una Leguas de la tarde, acabo de vadear el rio toda la expedicion gente y requas sin especial desgracia, y lo vadeamos dividido en tres brazos, y un desecho pequeiio, y nos quedamos en la Orilla del rio Colorado, haviendo caminado como una legua corta al norte. Lo i ancho de este rio en donde lo vadeamos regule que sera de unas 300. a 400 varas y esto es en este tiempo que es quando esta mas baxo, que en creciendo es de leguas su extension y anchor. Dia 1. de Deciembre. Nos detuvimos con el motivo de fa- bricar un jacal en la rancheria del Capitan Palma, para habitacion de los dos PP. Garces, y Eixarch, que se havian de quedar en este rio. Se vistio el Capitan Palma con el vestido que se le entrego de parte del Ex™° S"" Virrey. Dia 2. Se prosiguio en la obra del jacal, por lo qual nos detuvimos. 41 Dia 3. Salimos de la Orilla del rio Colorado, a las diez y media de la maiiana, y a medio dia llegamos a la Rancheria del Capitan Palma, haviendo caminado cosa de una legua con rumbo i al oeste quarta al sudoeste. Se empleo lo restante del dia en acabar el jacal. 42 Dia 4. Nos despedimos de los Padres Fr. Francisco Garces y Fr. Thomas Eixarch, y salimos de la Rancheria del Capitan Palma a las nueve y media de la manana, y a las dos y media de la tarde paramos cerca una laguna de las rancherias del Capitan Pablo, una legua despues de haver passado el cerro de San Pablo, haviendo caminado unas cinco leguas con rumbo al oeste quarta al sudoeste. 43 Dia 5. Salimos de las Rancherias del Capitan Pablo a las diez de la manana, y como a las dos de la tarde paramos cerca una laguna de las Rancherias del Cojat, haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas, con el rumbo al sudoeste y con muchas culebreadas. 4 El rio desde el cerro de San Pablo da una guinada quasi al sur, y desde alii ya no se ve mas porque va muy apartado del camino que sigue por sus vegas. 44 Dia 6. Salimos de las Rancherias del Cojat a las diez de la manana, y a las dos de la tarde paramos en la Laguna de Santa Olalla, haviendo caminado unas cinco leguas, con rumbo al sud- 5 oeste, pero culebreando quasi de sur a oeste. Dia 7. Para que la cavallada y mulada, que venia muy mala, se reforzara con el buen zacate de esta Laguna se determino detenernos en ella. Acudieron muchos Yndios de la nacion Cajuenclie, que vive de aqui para abajo del rio, muy alegres, y traxeron al real muchissimas sandias, calabazas, y bastimento que cambalacharon con abalorio. Estos Cajuenches no se dis- tinguen en sus costumbres de los Yumas, y en el idioma son quasi lo mismo, como tambien los Jalchedunes de rio arriba. Observe la altura de este parage, y lo halle en 32? 33: Y assi digo : En la Laguna de Santa Olalla, dia 7. de Deciembre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol : 34? 28: Dia 8. Se dispuso dividir la gente y requas de la expedicion en tres trozos para passar las jornadas malas y largas que se seguian, el primer trozo en que yo fui, governado por el S'" Co- mandante; el segundo por el Sargento, y el tercero por el The- niente, los que havian de salir del parage un dia despues unos de otros. Acudio al real mucha Yndiada con sus sandias &c, y aunque no se pudo ver el golpe de gente junta, regule por la que vi, que los Yumas seran como 3000. almas, y los Cajuenches algo mas. Dia 9. Salimos de la Laguna de Santa Olalla a las nueve y *5 media de la maiiana, y a las tres y media de la tarde llegamos al pozo Salobre del Carrizal, haviendo caminado unas siete leguas 7 con el rumbo al oestnoroeste. Es parage fatal, sin pasto y de malissima agua. El P. Fr. Francisco Garces se fue por otro camino rio abajo con animo de llegar hasta su desemboque. .Q Dia 10. Salimos del pozo salobre del Carrizal a las onze y media de la maiiana, y a las cinco y media de la tarde paramos en una barranca seca, sin pasto ni agua, haviendo caminado unas siete leguas con rumbo al oestnoroeste. 7 47 Dia 11. Salimos de la Barranca seca a las siete de la manana, y a las seys de la tarde llegamos a los Pozos de Santa Rosa, ha- [34] Diary of Pedro Font. 35 halted when Father Francisco Garces arrived ; he was on his way 1775 down the river to its mouth to visit the nations that inhabit the ^^^ surrounding country. December 7. — In order that the horses and mules, which were in bad condition, might be refreshed with the good grass around this pond, it was determined that we should remain here. Many Indians of the Cajuenche nation, who live from here on farther down the river, came joyfully, and brought to the camp a great many watermelons, pumpkins, and other provisions, which they traded for beads. These Cajuenches do not differ from the Yumas in their customs, and their language is nearly the same, as is also that of the Jalchedunes up the river. I observed the latitude of this place and found it to be 32° 33' ; so I say : At the Laguna de Santa Olalla, December 7, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 34° 28'. December 8. — It was decided to divide the people and pack- animals of the expedition into three parties, in order to make the long and difficult marches which were to follow; the first party, in which I went, was led by the commander; the second, by the sergeant; and the third, by the lieutenant. These were to set out from the stopping-place on succeeding days. A great many Indians came to the camp with their watermelons, etc., and, although all the crowd could not be seen at one time, I estimated from what I saw that the Yumas must have numbered about three thousand souls, and the Cajuenches somewhat more. December 9. — We set out from the Laguna de Santa Olalla at half-past nine in the morning, and, at half-past three in the afternoon, arrived at the Pozo Salobre del Carrizal, having trav- elled some seven leagues to the west-northwest. It is a miserable place, without pasture and with very bad water. Father Fran- cisco Garces took another road, do\VTi stream, with the intention of going as far as the mouth of the river. December 10. — We set out from the Pozo Salobre del Carrizal at half-past eleven in the morning, and, at half-past five in the afternoon, halted in a dry gulch, without either pasture or water, having travelled some seven leagues to the west-northwest. December 11. — We set out from the dry gulch at seven o'clock in the morning, and, at six in the afternoon, arrived at the [35] 36 Academy op Pacific Coast History. jornadas viendo caminado unas catorze leguas, con el rumbo como diez al Leguas oestnoroeste diez j lo restante un poco al oeste y lo mas al oest- 14 sudoeste. Son pozos de buena agua pero escassos, y se trabajo en ellos para dar agua desde que Ilegamos hasta el dia siguiente a medio dia. 43 Dia 12. Salimos de los Pozos de Santa Rosa a la una y tres quartos de la tarde, y a las quatro y tres quartos paramos en un Arroyo seeo, haviendo caminado tres leguas rumbo al norte. 3 .„ Dia 13. Salimos del Arroyo seco, a las nueve de la manana, y a las tres y media de la tarde Ilegamos al parage de San Sebas- tian, que es rancheria pequeiia de Cajuenches serranos, haviendo caminado unas siete leguas largas con rumbo al nornoroeste, y 7 con alguna inclinacion al norte. Dia 14. Amanecio el dia muy frio y a media manana nevo y estando nevando llego el ganado. Se determino detenernos aqui hasta que se juntasse toda la gente de la Expedicion que quedo atras dividida en dos trozos. Dia 15. A medio dia llego el Sargento con el segundo trozo de la gente de la expedicion. Dia 16. Esperavamos que oy llegasse el tercer trozo pero no vino, porque con la nevada se atrasso. Dia 17. A la tarde llego el Theniente, con el tercer trozo de la gente de la expedicion, quien tuvo en el camino algunos atrassos. Observe la altura de este parage, y lo halle en 33? 8: Y assi digo : En la Rancheria de San Sebastian, dia 17. de De- ciembre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol : 33? 10: Dia 18. Salimos de San Sebastian a la una de la tarde, y a las quatro y media paramos en un Baxio de algun zacate y sin agua, haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas, con rumbo al oeste, 4 quarta al noroeste. 51 Dia 19. Salimos del Baxio a las nueve de la manana, y a la una y media de la tarde Ilegamos al pozo de San Gregorio, parage de poco zacate y menos agua, haviendo caminado unas cinco 5 leguas con rumbo al oeste quarta al noroeste. 52 Dia 20. Salimos del pozo de San Gregorio a las nueve de la manana, y a la una y media de la tarde paramos en la orilla del [36] Diary of Pedro Font. 37 Pozos de Santa Rosa, having travelled some fourteen leagues: about ten to the west-northwest; and the remainder, a little to the west and the greater part to the west-southwest. The water of these wells is good but scanty; and in order to get water it was necessary to work from the time of our arrival until noon the next day. December 12. — We set out from the Pozos de Santa Rosa at a quarter to two in the afternoon, and, at a quarter to five, halted in a dry gully, having travelled three leagues to the north. December 13. — We set out from the dry gully at nine in the morning, and, at half-past three in the afternoon, arrived at San Sebastian, which is a small village of the mountain Caju- enches, having travelled some seven long leagues to the north- northwest, with a slight inclination to the north. December 14. — The day broke very cold, and, in the middle of the forenoon it snowed, and while it was snowing the cattle arrived. It was decided to remain here until all the people of the other two parties of the expedition which were behind could gather. December 15. — At noon the sergeant arrived with the second party of the people of the expedition. December 16. — We expected the third party today, but it did not arrive, as it was delayed by the snow. December 17. — The lieutenant arrived in the afternoon with the third party, which had met with some delays on the road. I observed the latitude of this place, and found it to be 33° 8' ; so I say : At the Rancheria de San Sebastian, December 17, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 33° 10'. December 18. — We set out from San Sebastian at one in the afternoon, and, at half-past four, halted in a bottom with some grass and without water, having travelled some four leagues, west by north. December 19. — We set out from the bottom at nine in the morning, and, at half-past one in the afternoon, arrived at the Pozo de San Gregorio, a place with little grass and less water, having travelled some five leagues, west by north. December 20. — We set out from the Pozo de San Gregorio at nine in the morning, and, at half-past one in the afternoon, [37] 38 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas Arrovo de Santa Catharina, en donde se pierde y acaba, haviendo Leguas caminado muy despacio unas quatro leguas, con rumbo al noroeste 4 quarta al oeste. La noche passada el ganado pego estampida por falta de agua, y se rebolvio para San Sebastian. Dia 21. Nos detuvimos por no haver venido los que se queda- ron atras recogiendo el ganado, y se enviaron dos soldados con algunas bestias a encontrarlos. Dia 22. Poco antes de anochecer vino el Sargento con los que se quedaron recogiendo el ganado, del qual se perdio alguno. 53 Dia 23. Salimos del Arroyo de S*^ Catharina, a la una de la tarde, y poco antes de las tres paramos al Pie del Sauce, cerca el nacimiento de dicho arroyo, haviendo caminado una legua larga, 1 con rumbo al noroeste quarta al oeste. Este parage esta en una Canada que sigue para arriba, por la qual va el camiuo atraves- sando la sierra madre de California. 54 Dia 24. Salimos del Pie del Sauce a las nueve y media de la manana, y como a las dos de la tarde paramos en la misma Canada en un Arroyo seco, no muy lexos de un ojito de agua, haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas cortas, con rumbo al oestnoroeste. 4 Dia 25. Con el motivo de que en esta santa noche de Navidad, poco antes de media noche pario una muger de un soldado feliz- mente un nino, y por estar el dia muy crudo y neblinoso se deter- mino detenernos oy. 55 Dia 26. Salimos del Arroyo seco a las nueve y quarto de la maiiana, y como a las dos de la tarde paramos en un baxio ime- diato a los peilascos que forman el puerto de la sierra madre de California llamado El Puerto de San Carlos, haviendo caminado unas tres leguas largas, con el rumbo al nornoroeste, y cule- 3 breando en la cuesta hasta encumbrar la sierra, cuyo trecho sera como una legua. Serian las cinco de la tarde quando sentimos un temblor con apariencias de terremoto que duro muy poco, acom- panado de un estruendo instantaneo y recio. Dia 27. Salimos del baxio y Puerto de San Carlos, a las nueve y tres quartos de la maiiana, y a las dos y media de la tarde paramos en el principio de la caiiada de San Patricio, cerca el nacimiento de su arroyo, haviendo caminado unas seys leguas 6 [38] Diary of Pedro Font. 39 halted beside the Arroyo de Santa Catharina where the stream 1775 loses itself and disappears, having travelled very slowly some ^^^ four leagues, west by north. Last night the cattle stampeded from lack of water, and made for San Sebastian. December 21. — "We remained here, as those who were behind collecting the cattle had not arrived, and two soldiers with some animals were sent to meet them. December 22. — A little before nightfall, the sergeant arrived with those who had been gathering the cattle, of which some were lost. December 23. — We set out from the Arroyo de Santa Cath- arina at one in the afternoon, and, a little before three, halted at the Pie del Sauce, near the source of the stream, having trav- elled a long league, northwest by west. This place is in a canyon that runs on up, and through it passes the road that crosses the Sierra Madre de California. December 24. — We set out from the Pie del Sauce at half- past nine in the morning, and, about two in the afternoon, halted in the same canyon in a dry gully not very far from a small spring, having travelled some four short leagues to the north- northwest. December 25. — For the reason that on this holy night of the Nativity, a little before midnight, the wife of a soldier happily gave birth to a son, and because the day was very raw and foggy, it was decided to remain today. December 26. — We set out from the dry gully at a quarter past nine in the morning, and, about two in the afternoon, halted in a bottom near the rocks that form the pass of the Sierra Madre de California, called the Puerto de San Carlos, having travelled some three long leagues to the north-northwest, and climbed the slope as far as the summit, a distance that must be about one league. At about five in the afternoon we felt a shake, with phenomena of earthquake, which lasted but a very short time and was accompanied by an instantaneous and loud noise. December 27. — We set out from the bottom and the Puerto de San Carlos at a quarter to ten in the morning, and, at half-past two in the afternoon, halted in the beginning of the Canada de San Patricio, near the source of its stream, having travelled some [39] 40 Academy op Pacific Coast History. jornadas COD el rumbo como tres al noroeste y lo restante al oestnoroeste. Leguas Aqui el terreno es major que el passado y muda totalmente de aspeeto este pais desde que se passa el puerto de San Carlos, respecto a lo que queda atras del otro lado. Dia 28. Amanecio algo mala la recien parida por lo qual nos detuvimos oy. Traxo un soldado unas piedras que parecieron de mineral, y algunos se inclinaron a deeir que en estas sierras y mas abajo havia minas, pues el panino lo indicaba. Observe la altura de este parage y lo halle en 33? 37: Y assi digo : En la Caiiada de San Patricio, y naeimiento de su arroyo, dia 28. de Deciembre de 1775: Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol: 32? 48: 57 Dia 29. Salimos de la canada de San Patricio, a las nueve y media de la manana, y a las quatro y media de la tarde paramos en la orilla del arroyo de San Joseph, en donde se acaba la canada que seguimos haviendo caminado siete leguas largas con el rumbo y al noroeste quarta al oeste, y con alguna guiiiada al norte cule- breando. 5g Dia 30. Salimos del Arroyo de San Joseph a las nueve y quarto de la manana, y a las dos y quarto de la tarde paramos en el valle de San Joseph al pie de una loma, haviendo caminado 5 cinco leguas, con el rumbo al oestnoroeste. 59 Dia 31. Salimos del Pie de la Loma, a las nueve y quarto de la manana, y a las quatro y tres quartos de la tarde llegamos a la Orilla del Rio de Santa Ana, haviendo caminado unas ocho • _ 8 leguas, con rumbo al oestnoroeste, y con alguna guinada corta a ratos al oeste. Dia 1. de Enero de 1776. Por haver sido larga la Jornada de ayer, y haver llegado tarde el ganado, se determino oy no hacer mas que vadear el rio, que aunque estrecho es de bastante agua, muy rapido, y de caxon muy profundo. A las dos de la tarde se empezo a vadear el rio, y en una hora se vadeo con felicidad; y nos paramos del otro lado cerca de sus margenes. Dia 2. Salimos del Rio de Santa Ana a las ocho y quarto de la manana, y a las dos y quarto de la tarde paramos en el Arroyo 60 [40] Diary of Pedro Font. 41 six leagues: about three to the northwest and the remainder to 1775 the west-northwest. Here the land is better than that just ^ traversed, and the aspect of the country — in contrast with that which lies on the other side — changes entirely after leaving the Puerto de San Carlos. December 28. — This morning the woman recently delivered was found to be ill, and for this reason we remained here today. A soldier brought some stones which looked like mineral, and some were inclined to say that in these mountains, and lower down, there were mines, as the kind of rock so indicated. I ob- served the latitude of this place and found it to be 33° 37' ; so I say: In the Caiiada de San Patricio, [at the] source of its stream, December 28, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 32° 48'. December 29. — We set out from the Canada de San Patricio at half-past nine in the morning, and, at half-past four in the afternoon, halted beside the Arroyo de San Joseph where the canyon that we were following terminates, having travelled seven long leagues, northwest by west, winding, with some deviation, to the north. December 30. — We set out from the Arroyo de San Joseph at a quarter past nine in the morning, and, at a quarter past two in the afternoon, halted in the Valle de San Joseph, at the foot of a hill, having travelled five leagues to the west-northwest. December 31. — We set out from the foot of the hill at a quar- ter past nine in the morning, and, at a quarter to five in the afternoon, arrived at the bank of the Rio de Santa Ana, having travelled some eight leagues to the west-northwest, with some short turns, now and then, to the west. Januarj' 1, 1776. — As the journey yesterday was long and the cattle arrived late, it was decided that today we should only v_^-^ ford the river, which, although narrow, carries a large volume of '^««- water, is very rapid, and has a very deep bed. At two in the afternoon we started to ford the river, and in an hour the cross- ing was successfully accomplished. We halted on the other side, close to its banks. January 2. — We set out from the Rio de Santa Ana at a quarter past eight in the morning, and, at a quarter past two [41] 42 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas de los Alisos, haviendo eaminado seys leguas eon rumbo al oest- Leguas noroeste. 6 61 Dia 3. Salimos del Arroyo de los Alisos a las nueve y quarto de la manana, y a las tres de la tarde paramos a orillas del Arroyo que eon otros se junta y forma el rio de San Gabriel, haviendo eaminado unas seys leguas, con rumbo al oestnoroeste. ^ 62 Dia 4. Salimos del Arroyo de San Gabriel a las nueve de la manana, y a las onze llegamos a la Mission de San Gabriel, senalada en el mapa con la letra B. haviendo eaminado unas dos •^ leguas, eon rumbo al oestsudoeste, algo inclinado al oeste. La mission de San Gabriel esta situada eomo a ocho leguas distante del mar, en un parage de bellissimas proporciones con bastante agua y muy buenas tierras. El sitio es llano y despejado, y eomo a dos leguas de la sierra nevada, que le eae al norte, la qual desde el puerto de San Carlos venimos dexando a la derecha, y parece que por aqui remata. En esta Mission hallamos al S"^ Capitan Comandante de Monterey D*^ Fernando de Ribera y Moncada, que con el motivo de la sublevacion de los Yndios de la mission de S"^ Diego que la destruyeron y mataron a su P. Ministro el P. Fr. Luis Jaume, havia venido para passar a aquel Presidio. Dia 5. Nos detuvimos a descansar, y los S*"^^ Comandantes platicaron sobre el negoeio de la rebelion de los Yndios de San Diego. Dia 6. Se canto la missa en aceion de graeias por nuestra llegada. El S^ Comandante Anza se ofrecio acompaiiar al S'" Comandante Ribera, y passar al Puerto y Presidio de San Diego con viente soldados de la expedieion para cooperar al castigo de los Yndios rebeldes, si f uesse necessario para pacificar la tierra ; y quedo determinado salir para San Diego el dia siguiente, a donde yo fui tambien, quedandose la gente y lo demas de la expedieion en San Gabriel hasta que bolviessemos. 63 Dia 7. Salimos de la Mission de San Gabriel al medio dia, a la ligera, y poco despues de las siete de la noche paramos a la orilla del rio de Santa Ana, despues de vadearlo, haviendo eaminado unas diez leguas largas, eon rumbo einco al sudeste, tres al est- sudeste y las dos ultimas quasi al este y eon alguna guiiiada al 10 nordeste. [42] Diary of Pedro Font. 43 in the afternoon, we halted in the Arroyo de los Alisos, having 1775 travelled six leagues to the west-northwest. ^ ' January 3. — We set out from the Arroyo de los Alisos at a quarter past nine in the morning, and, at three in the afternoon, halted on the banks of the stream which unites with others and forms the Rio de San Gabriel, having travelled some six leagues to the west-northw&st. January 4. — We set out from the Arroyo de San Gabriel at nine in the morning, and, at eleven, arrived at the mission of San Gabriel — marked on the map with the letter B — having travelled some two leagues to the west-southwest, inclining a little to the west. The mission of San Gabriel is situated about eight leagues from the sea, in a most beautiful and ample place, with plenty of water and very good soil. The site is level and open, and about two leagues from the Sierra Nevada, which lies to the north — we have had this range on our right since leaving the Puerto de San Carlos, and apparently it ends about this place. At this mission we found the commandant of Monterey, Captain Fernando de Rivera y jMoncada, who had come here on his way to the presidio of San Diego on account of the rising of the San Diego mission Indians, who had destroyed it, and killed its mini- ster. Father Luis Jaume. January 5. — We remained here to rest, and the commanders talked over the affair of the revolt of the San Diego Indians. January 6. — Mass was sung in thanksgiving for our arrival. Commander Anza offered to accompany Commander Rivera, and to go to the port and presidio of San Diego with twenty soldiers of the expedition to assist in punishing the rebel Indians, if that were necessary in order to pacify the country. It was decided to set out the next day for San Diego, (where I also went), the people and the rest of the expedition remaining at San Gabriel until we should return. January 7. — We set out, lightly equipped, from the mission of San Gabriel at noon, and, a little after seven at night, halted beside the Rio de Santa Ana, after fording it, having travelled some ten long leagues: five to the southeast, three to the east- southeast, and the last two almost due east, with some deviation to the northeast. [43] 44 Academy of Pacific Coast History, jornadas Dia 8. Salimos del rio de Santa Ana a las siete de la manana Leguas 64 y a las quatro y quarto de la tarde paramos en el arroyo de S** Maria Madalena, llamado por otro nombre la Quema haviendo caminado unas catorze leguas, con el rumbo, eomo cinco al 14 estsudeste, y quatro al sudeste, culebreando todo este tramo hasta el Trabuco por causa de las lomas, y lo restante al sudeste, quarta al sur. 65 Dia 9. Salimos del Arroyo de la Quema a las siete y media de la maiiana, y a las cinco de la tarde paramos en el rio de San Juan Capistrano, haviendo caminado unas catorze leguas, con rumbo u muy variado y de muchas bueltas por causa de las lomas que me parece reducirse como la mitad al estsudeste [y la otra] mitad al sudeste. 66 Dia 10. Salimos del Rio de San Juan Capistrano a las siete y media de la manana, y a las tres y media de la tarde paramos en la Rancheria de la Soledad, haviendo caminado unas doze leguas, 12 con rumbo vario, como tres leguas al sudeste, unas dos al sur- sudeste como quatro al sur no cabal hasta San Dieguillo, y lo restante al sursudeste y al ultimo quasi al sudeste. g„ Dia 11. Salimos de la rancheria de la Soledad a las siete y media de la manana y como a las diez y media llegamos al Presidio de San Diego, seiialado en el mapa eon la letra C. haviendo cami- nado quatro leguas largas con rumbo, las dos primeras quasi al ■* sursudeste y con declinacion al sur, y las dos restantes al sudeste, y sursudeste, siguiendo lo mas de estas la playa del puerto anegado. Q Esta el Presidio de San Diego situado, en un muy mal parage de una loma dominada de otras, pequena y desigual, al pie de la qual passa el rio que mucho tiempo del ano esta seco, el qual viene de la sierra madre de California que no esta lexos, como del nordeste, y bolteando la loma desagua en el Puerto que dista del Presidio unas dos leguas al sur. Aqui hallamos al P. Ministro de la mission destruida de San Diego, que estaba situada como una legua rio arriba, y los dos PP. Ministros de la mission de San Juan Capis- trano, que empezaban a fundar cerea el parage de la Quema, y la [44] Diary op Pedro Font. 45 January 8.— We set out from the Rio de Santa Ana at seven 1776 in the morning, and, at a quarter past four in the afternoon, '~J^ halted in the Arroyo de Santa Maria IVIagdalena, otherwise called Arroyo de la Quema, having travelled some fourteen leagues: about five to the east-southeast; four to the southeast — all this stretch, as far as El Trabuco, winding on account of the hills; and the remainder, southeast by south. January 9. — We set out from the Arroyo de la Quema at half -past seven in the morning, and, at five in the afternoon, halted at the Rio de San Juan Capistrano, having travelled some fourteen leagues with a very variable course, and with many turns on account of the hills — I suppose it might be set down as one half to the east-southeast, and the other half to the south- east. January 10. — We set out from the Rio de San Juan Capis- trano at half-past seven in the morning, and, at half-past three in the afternoon, halted in the village of La Soledad, having travelled some twelve leagues with a varied course : about three leagues to the southeast ; some two, to the south-southeast ; about four, not quite south, to San Dieguillo; the remainder, south- southeast ; and the last, almost southeast. January 11. — We set out from the village of La Soledad at half-past seven in the morning, and, about half-past ten, arrived at the presidio of San Diego — marked on the map with the let- ter C — having travelled four long leagues: the first two, almost south-southeast, inclining south ; and the remaining two, south- east and south-southeast, the greater part of these following the beach of the shallow port. The presidio of San Diego occupies a very bad site on a small and uneven hill, commanded by others. At the foot of the hill flows the river, which during the greater part of the year is dry ; it comes from the Sierra Madre de Cali- fornia, which is not far distant, about northeast ; after rounding the hill, it empties into the port, which is some two leagues south of the presidio. Here we met the minister of the ruined mission of San Diego, which was situated about one league up the river, and the two ministers of the mi.ssion of San Juan Capistrano, which they had begun to establish near La Quema and had left [45] 46 Academy of Pacific Coast History. dexaron con el alzamiento de los Yndios, los quales, y todo el Presidio recibieron especial contento con nuestra venida. Dia 12. Estuvo el dia apacible, que ayer fue bien malo con el viento extraordinario que soplaba. Observe la altura de este Pre- sidio, y lo halle en 32? 44: % Dia 13. Se empezaron a hacer las averiguaciones sobre el alzamiento passado, destruccion de la mission, y muerte de su P. Ministro examinando a unos Yndios cabezillas que estaban presos en el Presidio. Dia 14. Se canto la missa al dulcissimo nombre de Jesus per la feliz pacificacion de los Yndios alzados. Dia 15. Se prosiguieron las averiguaciones sobre el assumpto del alzamiento. Dia 16. Esta noche passada despacho el S"" Comandante Ribera al Sargento del Presidio con quinze soldados, para que fuessen a la rancheria de San Luis a prender unos cabezillas alzados que por noticia que dio una Yndia vieja supo que alii estaban. Dia 17. Estuvo el dia bueno por la manana, pero por la tarde se cubrio el orizonte con una gran neblina que subio del mar, Dia 18. Prosiguio el dia muy humedo y funesto con la neblina. Dia 19. A la noche vino el Sargento y los soldados con quatro gentiles delinquentes presos, y con la noticia de que los Yndios alzados con sus cabezillas se havian remontado a la sierra. Dia 20. A la tarde vi una viva representacion del incendio de la Llission de San Diego con la casualidad de baverse pegado fuego a un mediano jacal de tule que servia de fragua, y no se pudo apagar por diligencias que se hicieron. Dia 21. Desde la noche empezo a Hover, y prosiguio assi todo este dia. Dia 22. Estuvo el dia muy humedo y cubierto aunque sin Hover. Dia 23. ] Prosiguio el dia frio y lloviendo lo mas de el. Se Dia 24. J trabajo estos dias en assegurar el Presidio : se [46] Jan. Diary of Pedro Font. 47 on the rising of the Indians. The fathers, and the entire presidio, 1775 felt particular pleasure at our coming. January 12. — This was a pleasant day, unlike yesterday, which was very disagreeable owing to the unusual wind that blew. I observed the latitude of this presidio and found it to be 32° 441/2'. January 13. — Investigations were begun in regard to the late uprising, destruction of the mission, and death of its minis- ter, with examination of some Indian leaders who were held in the presidio. January 14. — ]\Iass was sung to the Dulcisimo Nombre de Jesus for the happy pacification of the rebellious Indians. January 15. — The investigations in regard to the affair of the rebellion were continued. January 16. — Last night the commandant Rivera sent the sergeant of the presidio with fifteen soldiers to the village of San Luis to seize some rebel leaders who, from information given by an old Indian woman, were known to be there. January 17. — The day was fair in the morning, but in the afternoon the horizon was covered with a heavy fog rising from the sea. January 18. — Today it continued very damp and gloomy on account of the fog. January 19. — At night the sergeant and the soldiers came back wnth four of the offending natives whom they had taken, and with the news that the rebel Indians, with their leaders, had taken to the mountains. January 20. — In the afternoon I saw a vivid representation of the burning of the mission of San Diego, when, accidentally, a small-sized hut of tule, used as a forge, was set on fire, and could not be put out despite the efforts that were made. January 21. — Last night it began to rain, and it has con- tinued all day. January 22. — Today it was very damp and overcast, al- though it did not rain. January 23. — It continued cold, and rained during the greater part of the day. These days were occupied in making the presidio secure. [47] 48 Academy of Pacific Coast History. proseguian en estos dias las averigua clones sobre el alzamiento, &c. Dia 25. Al anocheeer despacho el S"" Comandante Kibera al Sargento con quinze soldados, para que fuessen a la rancheria de S° Luis a prender unos delinquentes que alii estavan. Dia 26. Al anocheeer vino el Sargento y los soldados con nueve Yndios presos, de los quales dos eran cabezillas y con ellos traxo una media estola, un almaizal, y un pedazo de palio con su forro correspondiente arrancado : Por los presos supo el S^ Comandante que otro cabezilla principal se havia ido a la ran- cheria de la soledad, y en aquella misma hora bolvio a despachar al Sargento y soldados para que fuessen alia a prenderlo. Dia 27. A medio dia bolvio el Sargento y los soldados sin presa alguna por haverse liuido el Yndio que iban a buscar, la noche antecedente. Dia 28. No se ofrecio cosa particular. Dia 29. No huvo cosa especial. Dia 30. Siguio este dia sin novedad. Dia 31. Se passo sin novedad especial. Dia 1. de Febrero. A medio dia se despacho el correo con seys soldados, dirigido por la California a Mexico dando parte al S'^ Virrey de lo acaecido y del estado en que quedaba este Presidio. Dia 2. Bolvi a observar la altura de este presidio para ver si coneordaba con la antecedente que hize el dia 12. de Enero, y lo halle en la misma de 32? 44: 1/2 : Y assi digo En el Presidio del Puerto de San Diego dia 2. de Febrero de 1776: Altura meri- diana del bordo inferior del sol 40? 14: Dia 3. Se empezo a disponer nuestra marcha para Monterey. Dia 4. Se determino salir maiiana para Monterey. Dia 5. Amanecio Uoviendo, por lo que se suspendio la marcha. Dia 6. Nos detuvimos por estar el dia amenazando agua, y desde medio dia empezo a Hover. Dia 7. Fue impossible salir, porque toda la noche estuvo Uoviendo y siguio del mismo modo lo mas del dia. [48] Jan. Diary of Pedro Font. 49 January 24. — The investigations into the revolt, etc., were 1775 continued during these days. January 25. — At nightfall Commander Rivera sent the ser- geant with fifteen soldiers to the village of San Luis to seize some offenders who were there. January 26. — At nightfall the sergeant and the soldiers came back with nine captured Indians; of these, two were leaders, and with them was brought half a stole, a sash, and a piece of cloak with the corresponding lining torn from it. From the prisoners the commander learned that another principal leader had gone to the village of La Soledad, and on the instant he again sent the soldiers and sergeant there to seize him. January 27. — At midday the sergeant and the soldiers re- turned without any prisoner, as the Indian for whom they were looking had fled the night before. January 28. — Nothing particular happened. January 29. — There was nothing of importance. January 30. — The day passed without event. January 31. — Passed without special event. February 1. — At midday the mail was despatched with six Feb. soldiers, directed to i\Iexico by way of [Lower] California, in- forming the Viceroy of what had happened, and of the condition in which the presidio was left. February 2. — I again observed the latitude of this presidio, to see if it agreed with the previous observation I made on Jan- uary 12th, and found it to be the same — 32° 441/2' ; so I say : At the presidio of the port of San Diego, February 2, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 40° 14'. February 3. — Preparations were begun for our march to ^Monterey. February 4. — It was decided to start tomorrow for Monterey. February 5. — This morning it was found to be raining, and for this reason the march was postponed. February 6. — "We remained as the day threatened to be wet, and at noon it began to rain. February 7. — It was impossible to set out because it rained all night, and so continued the greater part of the day. [49] 50 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas Dia 8. Amanecio el dia sin lluvia, pero se determino de- Leguas tenernos oy por no estar el tiempo assentado. 68 Dia 9. Salimos del Presidio de San Diego el S"" Comandante Anza y los demas, (quedandose el S"^ Comandante Ribera, quien determino no moverse hasta aeabar de prender los delinquentes, y dexar assegurado el Presidio) a las ocho y tres quartos de la mafiana, y a las cinco y quarto de la tarde llegamos al parage llamado La agua hedionda, haviendo eaminado unas treze leguas 13 por el misrao camino y rumbos correspondientes a los de la venida de los quales el principal es el Noroeste. 69 Dia 10. Salimos de La Agua hedionda a las siete de la mafiana, y a las cinco y tres quartos de la tarde paramos en un Arroyo pequeno, una legua antes de llegar a la Quema, haviendo eaminado unas diez y seys leguas con el rumbo principal Nor- 16 oeste, y con sus variaciones como a la ida. 70 Dia 11. Salimos del Arroyo pequeiio a las siete de la mafiana, y a las quatro y media de la tarde paramos a la orilla del rio de Santa Ana despues de vadearlo, haviendo eaminado unas quinze leguas, con el rumbo variado como a la ida, y siguien- 15 do el principal noroeste. 71 Dia 12. Salimos del Rio de Santa Ana a las siete de la mafiana, y a las dos de la tarde llegamos a la Mission de San Gabriel, haviendo eaminado unas diez leguas, con la variacion de 10 rumbos como a la ida, y siguiendo el principal rumbo Noroeste. En esta Mission nos hallamos con la novedad de que esta noche passada desertaron un soldado de Monterey y quatro mozos y arrieros de la Expedicion, con treinte bestias y el hurto de otras cosas que executaron, y que salio en su alcanze el Theniente de la expedicion con nueve soldados. Dia 13. Con la novedad acaecida se determino aguardar unos dias hasta que bolviesse el Theniente. Observe la altura de esta Mission, pero por estar el dia nublado no quede satisfecho de la observacion. Dia 14. A la noche Uegaron dos soldados de los que fueron con el Theniente quien los rebolvio por haverseles cansado los cavallos, y dixeron como el Theniente iva empefi[a]do en alcanzar a los desertores, cuyo rastro fresco iva siguiendo. Dia 15. No huvo cosa particular. [50] Diary of Pedro Pont. 51 February 8. — The day began without rain, but it wavS decided to remain here today because the weather was not yet settled. February 9. — We set out from the presidio of San Diego — Commander Anza and the rest — at a quarter to nine in the morning, and, at a quarter past five in the afternoon, arrived at the place called Agua Hedionda, having travelled some thirteen leagues by the same road, and with directions corresponding to those of our coming, the principal being northwest. (Commander Rivera remained, as he decided not to proceed until he should finish capturing the offenders, and leave the presidio in security.) February 10. — We set out from Agua Hedionda at seven in the morning, and, at a quarter to six in the afternoon, halted at a small gully, one league before arriving at La Quema, having travelled some sixteen leagues, mainly to the northwest, and with the same variations as on the outward journey. February 11. — We set out from the little gully at seven in the morning, and, at half-past four in the afternoon, halted beside the Rio de Santa Ana after fording it, having travelled some fifteen leagues, with the varied direction as in coming, but following mainly to the northwest. February 12. — We set out from the Rio de Santa Ana at seven in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, arrived at the mission of San Gabriel, having travelled some ten leagues with the variation of direction as in coming, but following mainly to the northwest. At this mission we learned the news that, last night, a soldier from Monterey and four servants and muleteers of the expedition had deserted, taking with them thirty animals, and other articles that they stole, and that the lieutenant of the expedition had started in pursuit of them with nine soldiers. February 13. — With this new condition of affairs, it was decided to wait some days until the lieutenant should return. I observed the latitude of this mission, but as the day was cloudy I was not satisfied with the observation. February 14. — At night two of the soldiers who went with the lieutenant returned; he ordered them back because their horses were tired out, and they told how the lieutenant was determined to overtake the deserters, following their fresh tracks. February 15. — There was nothing particular. [51] 72 52 Academy of Pacific Coast History. Dia 16. Proseguimos sin novedad especial. Leguas Dia 17. Bolvi a observar la altura de esta Mission, y la halle en 34? 5: i/o. Y assi digo : En la Mission de San Gabriel, dia 17. de Febrero de 1776 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del Sol: 43? 42; Dia 18. No se ofrecio novedad alguna. Dia 19. Bolvi a observar, para satisfacerme y salio la misma altura del dia 17. Se determino no aguardar al Theniente mas de hasta mafiana, en atencion a que se passaban los dias y se re- tardaba concluir el viage de la expedicion hasta Monterey. Dia 20. No vino el Theniente, eon que se resolvio proseguir la caminata. Dia 21. Salimos de la Mission de San Gabriel a las onze y media de la maiiana, y a las quatro y media de la tarde paramos en el Puertezuelo, haviendo caminado seys leguas, con el rumbo 6 dos al oeste con alguna guiiiada a un lado y otro y las restantes al oestnoroeste. A las dos leguas passamos el rio de Poreiuncula. Dia 22. Salimos del Puertezuelo a las ocho de la maiiana, y a las tres y media de la tarde paramos en el parage llamado La agua Escondida, haviendo caminado unas diez leguas, con el lo rumbo como siete al oeste quarta al noroeste, y las restantes al oestsudoeste. 74 Dia 23. Salimos del Agua Escondida a las ocho de la maiiana, y a las seys y media de la tarde llegamos al rio de Santa Clara, haviendo caminado unas quinze leguas con el rumbo tres 15 al oestsudoeste cinco al oeste una al nordeste para &c., para coger la cuesta empinada, y finalmente baxada la cuesta, unas seys al oeste hasta el rio. 75 Dia 24. Salimos del Rio de Santa Clara a las nueve y media de la manana y a las tres y media de la tarde paramos en un altito a orillas de la mar, cerca la rancheria de la Rinconada, haviendo caminado unas nueve leguas con el rumbo, tres al oeste hasta la 9 playa del mar, y primera rancheria de la canal de Santa Bar- bara, llamada la carpinteria, situada cerca el rio de la Assumpta, 73 [52] Feb. Diary op Pedro Font. 53 February 16. — We continued without special event. 1775 February 17. — I again observed the latitude of this mission and found it to be 34° 5i/o' ; so I say : At the mission of San Gabriel, February 17, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 43° 42'. February 18. — Nothing whatever occurred. February 19. — I again observed the latitude, in order to satisfy myself, and obtained the same results as on the 17th. It was decided to wait for the lieutenant no longer than tomorrow, considering the fact that the days were passing, and the con- clusion of the journey of the expedition to Monterey was being retarded. February 20. — The lieutenant did not return, 60 it was decided to resume the march. February 21. — We set out from the mission of San Gabriel at half-past eleven in the morning, and, at half-past four in the afternoon, halted at El Puertezuelo, having travelled six leagues : two to the west, with some winding from one side to the other, and the remainder to the west-northwest. At the end of two leagues we crossed the Rio de Porciuncula. February 22. — We set out from El Puertezuelo at eight in the morning, and, at half-past three in the afternoon, halted at the place called Agua Escondida, having travelled some ten leagues : about seven west by north, and the remainder west- southwest. February 23. — We set out from Agua Escondida at eight in the morning, and, at half-past six in the afternoon, arrived at the Rio de Santa Clara, having travelled some fifteen leagues: three, to the west-southwest ; five, west ; one, northeast, when we came to the steep slope; and finally, when we had descended it, some six leagues to the west, as far as the river. February 24. — We set out from the Rio de Santa Clara at half-past nine in the morning, and, at half -past three in the after- noon, halted on a small bluff by the sea near the village of La Rinconada, having travelled some nine leagues : three to the west, as far as the seashore and the first village of the Canal de Santa Barbara, called La Carpinteria, situated near the Rio de la [53] 54 Academy op Pacific Coast History, jornadas y las restantes al oeste quarta al noroeste con alguna declinacion Legnas dissimulada al oeste en las puntas de la costa, que hay varias. „Q Dia 25. Salimos de la rancheria de la Rinconada a las nueve de la maiiana y a las tres de la tarde paramos en un parage llamado las imediaciones de las rancherias de Mescaltitan, havien- do caminado unas nueve leguas con rumbo como seys al oeste 9 quarta al noroeste, dos al noroeste, y al ultimo como una legua eorta al sudoeste. Dia 26. Salimos de las Ymediaciones de Mescaltitan a las 77 oeho y quarto de la maiiana, y a las tres y media de la tarde paramos en un altito a orillas de la mar cerca la rancheria nueva, haviendo caminado unas diez leguas lo mas por la playa, con el 10 rumbo, como una al sudoeste, y dos al oestsudoeste para descabe- zar los esteros de IMescaltitan, y lo restante al oestnoroeste no cabal con alguna inclinacion al oeste. Dia 27. Salimos de Cerca la rancheria nueva a las ocho de 78 la manana, y a las tres y media de la tarde paramos a orillas de la mar cerca la rancheria del Coxo haviendo caminado unas diez 10 leguas con el rumbo al oestnoroeste no cabal 6 con declinacion al oeste. Dia 28. Salimos de Cerca la rancheria del coxo a las ocho de la manana, y a las quatro de la tarde paramos cerca el rio de Santa Rosa haviendo caminado unas doze leguas, con el rumbo 12 como una al noroeste, dos al nornoroeste, dos al noroeste, y dos al oestnoroeste siguiendo un medio circulo que hace aqui la costa hasta descabezar la punta de la concepcion que es la ultima de la canal y la mas salida : luego como una al norte dos al nornoroeste, y dos al noroeste, y paramos cerca la playa. go Dia 29. Salimos de Cerca el rio de Santa Rosa a medio dia, (que antes no pudo ser por ser preciso aguardar la marea baxa para vadear el rio de Santa Rosa) y a las tres y quarto paramos en la Laguna graciosa, haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas, 4 con el rumbo al norte, y con alguna declinacion al nordeste. gj Dia 1. de Marzo. Salimos de la Laguna graciosa a las ocho de la maiiana y a las cinco y quarto de la tarde paramos en el [54] Diary of Pedro Font. 55 Asumpta ; and the remainder, west by north, with some slight, 1776 negligible deviation to the west at the several points on the coast. " • ' February 25. — AVe set out from the village of La Rineonada at nine in the morning, and, at three in the afternoon, halted at a place called Las Imediaeiones de las Rancherias de Mescaltitan, having travelled some nine leagues: about six, west by north; two, northwest ; and finally about a short league to the southwest. February 26. — We set out from Las Imediaeiones de IMescal- titan at a quarter past eight in the morning, and, at half-past three in the afternoon, halted on a small bluff by the sea near the Rancheria Nueva, having travelled some ten leagues, the greater part along the beach : about one to the southwest ; two to the west-southwest so as to roimd the estuaries of IMescaltitan ; and the remainder, nearly west-northwest or with some inclina- tion to the west. February 27. — We set out from the vicinity of the Rancheria Nueva at eight in the morning, and at half-past three in the after- noon, halted on the seashore near the Rancheria del Cojo, having travelled some ten leagues nearly west-northwest or with devia- tion to the west. February 28. — We set out from the vicinity of the Rancheria del Cojo at eight in the morning, and, at four in the afternoon, halted near the Rio de Santa Rosa, having travelled some twelve leagues : about one to the northwest ; two to the north-northwest ; two to the northwest ; and two to the west-northwest, following a semicircle that the coast makes here until we doubled the Punta de la Concepcion, which is the last point of the channel and the one that projects farthest ; then about one league to the north ; two to the north-northwest ; and two to the northwest. We halted near the beach. February 29. — We set out from the vicinity of the Rio de Santa Rosa at noon ( it was not possible earlier as it was necessary to wait for low tide in order to cross the Rio de Santa Rosa), and, at a quarter past three, halted at the Laguna Graciosa, having travelled some four leagues to the north, with some deviation to the northeast. March 1. — We set out from the Laguna Graciosa at eight in »#>T„gi the morning, and, at a quarter past five in the afternoon, halted [55] 56 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas parage de la Rancheria del Buchon, haviendo caminado unas Leguas treze leguas, con el rumbo, como tres al nordeste, una al nor- 13 nordeste dos al norte dos al nornoroeste tres al noroeste por la playa, y dos al nornoroeste. Dia 2. Salimos de la Rancheria del Buchon a las ocho de la manana, y a las onze y tres quartos llegamos a la mission de San Luis Obispo, senalada en el mapa con la letra D., haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas con el rumbo, como una al norte, 4 y lo restante al nornoroeste y noroeste, declinando algo al oeste, D un poco antes de llegar. Esta la Mission de San Luis situada en un hermoso parage de un altito imediato a un arroyo, cerca la sierra de Santa Lucia y a tres leguas del mar con tierras muy fertiles. Los yndios de esta Mission son limpios asseados, y mas bien carados y vistosos que los de ninguna otra nacion de quantas he visto. Dia 3. Nos detuvimos este dia. Observe la altura de esta Mission, y la halle en 35? 17: i/o. Y assi digo : En la Mission de San Luis Obispo, dia 3. de Marzo de 1776: Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del Sol: 48? 4: Dia 4. Salimos de la mission de San Luis Obispo a las nueve de la mafiana, y a las quatro y tres quartos de la tarde, paramos en un parage llamado la Assumpcion, a orillas del rio de Monte- rey, con quien se ha juntado ya el rio de Santa Margarita, haviendo caminado unas diez leguas, con el rumbo como una al ^^ nordeste, quatro al norte, una al nornoroeste, dos al noroeste y dos al oestnoroeste. g^ Dia 5. Salimos del parage de la Assumpcion a las ocho y tres quartos de la manana, y a las quatro y quarto de la tarde paramos en la orilla del rio de San Antonio, en el parage llamado el primer vado, haviendo caminado unas diez leguas, con el rumbo 10 como tres quasi al norte, cinco al noroeste, y dos al oestnoroeste. 35 Dia 6. Salimos del parage del Primer vado a las siete y tres quartos de la maiiana, y a las quatro de la tarde llegamos a la Mission de San Antonio de los robles senalada en el mapa con la letra E., haviendo caminado diez leguas largas con el rumbo unas 10 quatro al oeste, y oestnoroeste dos al noroeste, dos quasi al norte J, y dos al noroeste, y algo al oestnoroeste antes de llegar. La mis- sion de San Antonio esta situada en la Sierra de Santa Lucia [56] March Diary op Pedro Font. 57 at the Rancheria del Buchon, having travelled some thirteen 1776 leagues : about three to the northeast ; one to the north-northeast ; two to the north ; two to the north-northeast ; three to the north- east along the beach; and two to the north-northwest. March 2. — We set out from the Rancheria del Buchon at eight in the morning, and, at a quarter to twelve, arrived at the mis- sion of San Luis Obispo — marked on the map with the letter D — having travelled some four leagues : about one to the north, and the remainder to the north-northwest and northwest, deviating a little to the west shortly before arriving. The mission of San Luis [Obispo] is situated in a beautiful spot on a little rise beside a stream, near the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and three leagues from the sea, with very fertile lands. The Indians of this mission are clean, neat, and much better looking and seemly than those of any other nation I have seen. March 3. — We remained here today. I observed the latitude of this mission and found it to be 35° ITi/o' ; so I say : At the mission of San Luis Obispo, March 3, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 48° 4'. IMarch 4. — We set out from the mission of San Luis Obispo at nine in the morning, and, at a quarter to five in the afternoon, halted at a place called La Asuncion, on the banks of the Rio de ]\Ionterey (which the Rio de Santa Margarita has already joined), having travelled some ten leagues: about one to the northeast ; four to the north ; one to the north-northwest ; two to the northwest; and two to the west-northwest. IMarch 5. — We set out from La Asuncion at a quarter to nine in the morning, and, at a quarter past four in the afternoon, halted beside the Rio de San Antonio, at the place called Primer Vado, having travelled some ten leagues : about three almost due north ; five, northwest ; and two, west-northwest. March 6. — We set out from Primer Vado at a quarter to eight in the morning, and, at four in the afternoon, arrived at the mission of San Antonio de los Robles — marked on the map with the letter E — having travelled ten long leagues : some four to the west and west-northwest; two to the northwest; two almost due north ; two to the northwest and a little to the west-northwest just before arriving. The mission of San Antonio is situated in [57] 58 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas (la qual empieza un poco mas aba jo de la mission de San Luis Leguas y siguiendo la costa va a rematar cerca la mission de San Carlos del Carmelo,) en una Canada no muy angosta, y larga unas diez leguas, muy llena de grandes robles, por lo qual se llama la Mis- sion : San Antonio de la Canada de los Robles. Y es el parage muy bueno de lindas tierras y con suficiente agua del rio que sigue dicha cafiada pero algo apartado del mar. Los Yndios de esta mission son totalmente distinctos de los demas que he visto hasta aqui. Dia 7. Poco despues de medio dia llego a esta Mission el Theniente de la Expedicion que fue a seguir a los desertores, a los quales alcanzo y prendio, un poco mas alia del Pozo salobre del Carrizal yendo para la laguna de S*'* Olalla, y los dexo presos en la IVIission de San Gabriel. Observe la altura de esta Mission, y la halle en 36? 2: i/o- ^ assi digo : En la Mission de San An- tonio de los robles, dia 7. de Marzo, de 1776 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol: 48? 52: 86 Dia 8. Salimos de la Mission de San Antonio de los Robles a las ocho y tres quartos de la maiiana, y a las tres y quarto de la tarde paramos en la orilla del rio de Monterey en el parage llamado Los Ossitos, haviendo caminado unas nueve leguas, con 9 el rumbo como dos al nordeste, tres al norte, y algo al nornor- oeste, hasta passar un ramo de la sierra de Santa Lucia, y lo restante al noroeste. 87 Dia 9. Salimos del parage de Los Ossitos a las ocho de la maiiana, y a las tres y quarto de la tarde paramos en la orilla del rio de Monterey en el parage llamado los Correos, haviendo caminado diez leguas con el rumbo, como seys al noroeste quarta 10 al oeste, y las restantes al oestnoroeste. 88 Dia 10. Salimos del Parage de los Correos a las nueve y quarto de la manana, y a las quatro y media de la tarde llegamos F al Real Presidio del Puerto de Monterey, senalado en el mapa con la letra F., haviendo caminado unas diez leguas con el rumbo 10 las ocho al oestnoroeste, y las dos ultimas al oeste no cabal. El Real Presidio de Monterey esta situado en un llano, que hace la sierra de pinos que aqui remata, imediato al mar, y como a un quarto de legua del Puerto de Monterey. El Puerto consiste [58] Diary of Pedro Font. 59 the Sierra de Santa Lucia (this begins a little below the mission of San Luis and, following the coast, terminates near the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo) in a canyon — not very narrow and some ten leagues long — that is entirely covered with great oaks; for this reason the mission is called San Antonio de la Canada de los Robles. The place is very suitable, having fine lands and plenty of water from the river which follows the canyon, but is at some distance from the sea. The Indians of this mission are totally distinct from those I have hitherto seen. March 7. — The lieutenant of the expedition, who had followed the deserters, arrived at this mission shortly after midday; he overtook and captured them a little beyond the Pozo Salobre del Carrizal going towards the Laguna de Santa Olalla, and left them prisoners at the mission of San Gabriel. I observed the latitude of this mission and found it to be 36° 221^'; so I say: At the mission of San Antonio de los Robles, March 7, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 48° 52'. ^larch 8. — We set out from the mission of San Antonio de los Robles at a quarter to nine in the morning, and, at a quarter past three in the afternoon, halted beside the Rio de INIonterey, at the place called Los Ositos, having travelled some nine leagues : about two to the northeast ; three to the north, and a little to the north- northwest until we had passed a spur of the Sierra de Santa Lucia ; and the remainder to the northwest. March 9. — We set out from Los Ositos at eight in the morning, and, at a quarter past three in the afternoon, halted beside the Rio de Monterey, at the place called Los Correos, having travelled ten leagues : about six northwest by west, and the remainder west- northwest. March 10. — We set out from Los Correos at a quarter past nine in the morning, and, at half-past four in the afternoon, arrived at the Real Presidio del Puerto de Monterey — marked on the map with the letter F — having travelled some ten leagues: eight to the west-northwest, and the two last almost west. The Real Presidio de Monterey is situated on a plain formed by the Sierra de Pinos, which ends here ; it is by the sea and about a quarter of a league from the Puerto de ^Monterey. The port consists of a small bight sheltered to some extent by the Punta [59] 60 Academy op Pacific Coast History. jornadas en Una pequena rinconada de que hace poco resguardo la punta Leguas de pinos, la qual se alarga como dos leguas, al mar, y forma con la punta de ano nuevo, que sale al mar como doze leguas, una grande ensenada pero muy abierta. La punta de Pinos respecto del presidio de Monterey de quien dista como tres leguas cae quasi al norte, y la punta de ano nuevo respecto del puerto de quien dista unas diez o doze leguas, cae como al noroeste. 89 Dia 11. Por la manana vino de la mission de San Carlos del Carmelo el Muy R*^" P. Presidente de las missiones Fr. Junipero Serra, con otros quatro religiosos, a darnos la bienvenida, y can- tamos la missa en accion de gracias de nuestra feliz llegada. Ob- serve la Altura de este Presidio, (bien que no fue la observacion totalmente a mi gusto y con la exactitud que deseaba aunque puse en ella el mayor cuydado por estar el dia muy neblinoso,) y lo halle en 36? 36: 14. Y assi digo: En el Real Presidio del Puerto de Monterey, dia 11. de Marzo de 1776 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del Sol 49? 52: Se determino que passassemos a la Mission del Carmelo, assi por condescender a las instancias del R. P. Presidente, como principalmente porque en el presidio no huvo en donde hospedarnos; y quedandose en el Presidio el Theniente de la Expedicion con la gente conducida, salimos de dicho Presidio de Monterey el S'" Comandante, yo y otros pocos a las quatro de la tarde, y a las cinco llegamos a la Mission de San Carlos del Carmelo senalada en el mapa con la letra G. haviendo caminado una legua larga con el rumbo al sudoeste l quarta al sur. Q Esta la ]\Iission de San Carlos del Carmelo situada en un altito imediato al mar y pegado al rio del Carmelo, el qual desagua en una pequena ensenada que en este parage se forma de la sierra de Santa Lucia, que aqui remata, y de la punta de cipreses. Es exelente parage y de tierra muy fertil. Dia 12. Nos detuvimos en esta mission a descansar. La pequena ensenada, a la qual llamo el S*" Capitan Vizcaino el puerto del carmelo, no merece nombre de puerto, pues a mas de que tiene mal sondeadero todo peiiascoso, esta totalmente des- [60] Diary of Pedro Font. 61 de Pinos, which extends seaward about two leagues and forms, 1775 with the Punta de Ano Nuevo, which runs seaward about twelve t?^ . March leagues, a large but very open bay. The Punta de Pinos has almost due north of the Presidio de Monterey, from which it is about three leagues distant; and the Punta de Ano Nuevo lies almost northwest of the port, from which it is some ten or twelve leagues distant. ]\Iarch 11. — In the morning the Very Reverend Father-Presi- dent of the missions. Father Junipero Serra, with four other religious, came from the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo to welcome us, and we sang mass in thanksgiving for our safe arrival. I observed the latitude of this presidio (although, as the day was very foggy, the observation was not entirely to my satisfaction, nor as exact as I desired, even though I took the greatest care), and found it to be 36° 36I/2'; so I say: At the Real Presidio del Puerto de Monterey, March 11, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 49° 52'. It was decided that we should go to the mission [of San Carlos] del Carmelo, as much to accede to the solicitations of the father-president, as, and that principal!}^ — because there was no place in the presidio for us to lodge ; the lieutenant of the expedition, with the people who were being brought, remained at the presidio. The Com- mander, I, and some few others set out from the presidio of Monterey at four in the afternoon, and, at five, arrived at the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo — marked on the map with the letter G — having travelled one long league southwest by south. Here the fathers — there were seven of them — received us, singing the Te Deum, with peals of bells, and great rejoicing. The mission of San Carlos del Carmelo is situated on a rising ground near the sea and close to the Rio del Carmelo, which empties into a small bay formed by the Sierra de Santa Lucia, which terminates here, and the Punta de Cipreses. The site is splendid, and the land very fertile. ]\larch 12. — We remained at the mission to rest. The little bay, called the Puerto del Carmelo by Captain Vizcaino, does not deserve the name of a port for, in addition to its having a bad anchorage, it is entirely exposed to the northwest, from [61] 62 Academy of Pacific Coast History, jornadas cubierta por el noroeste que es el viento que aqui mas reyna, y Leguas solo esta resguardada algo por el este y sur con la sierra de Santa Lucia. Dia 13. A media manana acometio al S*" Comandante un dolor tan recio en la ingle que lo hizo poner en cama. Dia 14. Prosiguio el S"" Comandante malo en la cama sin poderse levantar. Dia 15. Siguio el S^ Comandante sin especial alivio. Dia 16. Estuvo el S"" Comandante del mismo modo. Observe la altura de esta Mission y la halle en 36? 34: I/2. Y assi digo: En la Mission de San Carlos del Carmelo, dia 16. de Marzo de 1776: Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol: 51? 52: Dia 17. Amanecio el S^ Comandante algo aliviado. Dia 18. Siguio el S^ Comandante con algun alivio. Dia 19. Prosiguio el S*" Comandante con alguna mejoria. Bolvi a observar la altura de esta mission, y no apunto esta ob- servacion porque salio la misma que el dia 16. con diferencia de un minuto de mas. Dia 20. Amanecio el S'" Comandante tan aliviado que deter- mino seguir el viage para el registro del puerto de S"^ Francisco de aqui a dos dias. Dia 21. Bolvi a observar, y juntamente conmigo hicieron su observacion el P. Fr, Francisco Palou con su Grafometro, y el P. Fr. Juan Crespi eon su astrolabio ; y no apunto esta obser- vacion porque es la misma que la del dia 16., con medio minuto mas, aunque en los minutos algo nos diferenciamos los tres. 90 Dia 22. Bolvimos a observar los tres como ayer y salio la observacion quasi como la passada, aunque tampoco convenimos en los minutos. Salimos de la Mission de San Carlos del Carmelo el S*" Comandante y yo para passar (con el Theniente de la Expedicion) al puerto de San Francisco, a las tres de la tarde, y a las quatro llegamos al Presidio de Monterey, haviendo caminado una legua al nordeste quarta al norte. 1 [62] Diary op Pedro Font. 63 which direction comes the prevailing wind, and is only partially sheltered on the east and south by the Sierra de Santa Lucia. INIarch 13. — In the middle of the forenoon the commander was attacked with such a violent pain in the groin that he was forced to go to bed. ]\Iarch 14. — The commander continued sick in bed, not being able to get up. March 15. — The commander continued without appreciable relief. March 16. — The commander remained in the same condition. I observed the latitude of this mission and found it to be 36° 341/2' ; so I say : At the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo, March 16, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 51° 52'. March 17. — This morning the commander appeared to be somewhat improved. March 18. — The commander continued to improve somewhat. March 19. — The commander continued to get better. I again observed the latitude of this mission; I do not set down this observation because it came out the same as that of the 16th, with the difference of one minute more. March 20. — This morning the commander was so much im- proved that he decided to resume the journey for exploring the port of San Francisco two days hence. March 21. — I again made an observation and, at the same time. Father Francisco Palou made his observation with his graphometer, and Father Juan Crespi with his astrolabe. I do not set down this observation because it is the same as that of the 16th, with half a minute more, although the three of us differed somewhat in regard to the minutes. March 22. — We three again made observations as yesterday and the result came out almost the same as the former one, although we again could not agree on the minutes. The com- mander and I set out from the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo to proceed (with the lieutenant of the expedition) to the port of San Francisco. [We started] at three in the afternoon and arrived at the presidio of Monterey at four, having travelled one league northeast by north. [63] 64 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jomadas Dia 23. Salimos del presidio de Monterey a las nueve y Leguas 91 media de la maiiana con el Theniente y onze soldados, y a las tres y tres quartos de la tarde paramos del otro lado del Valle de Santa Delfina al entrar en una cailada en el parage llamado La Natividad, haviendo caminado unas oeho leguas largas, con § el rumbo algo mas de una legua al este, y tres al nordeste con alguna declinacion al norte, hasta passar el rio de monterey; luego como tres al nordeste, y una al nornordeste. 92 Dia 24. Salimos del Parage de la Natividad a las siete y tres quartos de la maiiana y a las quatro y quarto de la tarde paramos en el arroyo de las llagas, haviendo caminado unas doze 12 leguas, con el rumbo dos al nordeste, y algo al este al encumbrar la sierra para baxar al arroyo de San Benito, y una al norte, dos al nordeste, con alguna inclinacion al norte, hasta passar el rio del paxaro ; una quasi al norte tres al nornoroeste por el Valle de S'' Bernardino, y tres al noroeste. 93 Dia 25. Salimos del arroyo de las llagas a las siete y tres quartos de la manana, y a las quatro de la tarde paramos en el arroyo de San Joseph Cupertino, haviendo caminado unas doze 12 leguas con el rumbo tres al noroeste dos al noroeste quarta al oeste cinco al oestnoroeste, y dos al oeste quarta al noroeste. 94 Dia 26. Salimos del Arroyo de San Joseph Cupertino a las siete y media de la manana, y a las tres y tres quartos de la tarde paramos en un Aroyito quasi seco como una legua corta despues de passar el arroyo de San ]\Iatheo, haviendo caminado unas doze 12 leguas con el rumbo, una al noroeste otra al nornoroeste, y luego unas quatro al oestnoroeste hasta passar el arroyo de San Fran- cisco : despues tres al noroeste, quarta al oeste, y tres al oest- noroeste. gg Dia 27. Salimos del Arroyito a las siete de la manana, y poco despues de las onze paramos a la orilla de una laguna 6 manantial de linda agua imediata a la boca del Puerto de S° Francisco, haviendo caminado unas seys leguas, con el rumbo q las tres primeras al noroeste, y las tres ultimas al nornoroeste, y aun quasi al norte. H El puerto de San Francisco senalado en el mapa con la letra H. es una maravilla de la naturaleza, y se puede llamar puerto de [64] Diary of Pedro Font. 65 March 23. — We set out from the presidio of Monterey at half- past nine in the morning with the lieutenant and eleven soldiers and, at a quarter to four, halted on the other side of the Valle de Santa Delfina at the entrance of a canyon in the place called La Natividad, having travelled some eight long leagues: rather more than one league to the east ; three, to the northeast with some deviation to the north, to where we crossed the Rio de Monterey; then, about three to the northeast and one to the north-northeast. March 24. — We set out from La Natividad at a quarter to eight in the morning and, at a quarter past four in the afternoon, halted at the Arroyo de las Llagas, having travelled some twelve leagues: two to the northeast, and a little to the east when we ascended the mountain to go down to the Arroyo de San Benito ; one, north; two, northeast with some deviation to the north, to where we crossed the Rio del Paxaro; one almost due north; three, north-northwest through the Valle de San Bernardino ; and three, to the northwest. ]\Iarch 25. — We set out from the Arroyo de las Llagas at a quarter to eight in the morning and, at four in the afternoon, halted at the Arroyo de San Joseph Cupertino, having travelled some twelve leagues: three to the northwest; two northwest by west; five, west-northwest; and two, west by north. ]\Iarch 26. — We set out from the Arroyo de San Joseph Cupertino at half-past seven in the morning, and, at a quarter to four in the afternoon, halted at a small, almost dry, watercourse, about one short league after crossing the Arroyo de San Mateo, having travelled some twelve leagues : one, northwest ; one, north- northwest; then some four, west-northwest, to where we crossed the Arroyo de San Francisco; then, three, northwest by west; and three, west-northwest. March 27. — We set out from the small watercourse at seven in the morning and, a little after eleven, halted beside a pond or spring of fine water near the mouth of the port of San Fran- cisco, having travelled some six leagues: the first three to the northwest, and the last three, north-northwest and even very nearly north. The port of San Francisco — marked on the map with the letter H — is a wonder of nature, and may be called the port of [65] 66 Academy of Pacific Coast History. puertos por su mucha capacidad y varies recodos que encierra en sus margenes o playa y en las yslas. La boca del puerto que parece ser de muy facil y segura entrada, tendra como una legua de largo, y algo mas de una legua de ancho por la parte exterior que mira al mar, y como un quarto de legua por la parte interior que mira al puerto. El remate interior de la boca lo forman dos cantiles muy altos y derechos, de este lado un cantil bianco y del otro lado un cantil Colorado y estan rectos de sur a norte. Corre la Costa de la boca por la parte de alia de estnordeste a oestsudoeste, lo que observe dia 1. de Abril desde el otro lado del estero 6 puerto quando passe por alii la qual parece ser toda de peiiasqueria colorada. La costa de la boca por la parte de aca corre de nordeste a sudoeste no recta sino formando un recodo en cuya playa desagua un arroyo que sale de la laguna en donde paramos, y lo llamamos el arroyo del puerto, al qual puede llegar la lancha a hazer agua, pues en toda la costa del treeho de la boca ya esta la mar quieta y no rebientan las olas en la playa como en la costa del mar afuera. La punta de Almejas respecto la punta exterior de la boca del puerto de este lado, cae al sur y distara por el ayre unas tres leguas for- mando la playa que es muy medanosa quasi un medio circulo. La punta de Reyes del otro lado respecto dicha punta exterior de la Boca cae al noroeste quarta al oeste y tendra la costa hasta la dicha punta unas doce leguas de largo, la qual no corre igual sino formando un recodo 6 ensenada no muy grande, segun pude ver, como a las tres 6 quatro leguas. Dentro del mar como a unas seys u ocho leguas se miran unos farallones algo grandes que hacen esta figura [Frontispiece, fig. 1] y respecto la punta exterior de la Boca del Puerto caen al oeste quarta al sudoeste: y al oeste de dicha punta se miran mas adentro otros quatro farallones que forman a la vista esta figura [Frontispiece, fig. 2] . [66] Diary of Pedro Font. 67 ports, on account of its great capacity and the various bights 1776 included in its litoral or shore and in its islands. The mouth of !rr^ . J, p March the port, which appears to be very easy of access and safe, may be about one league in length, and rather more than a league in width on the outside looking to the sea, and about a quarter of a league on the inside looking toward the port. The inner end of the entrance is formed by two very steep and high cliffs, on this side a white cliff, and on the other side a red one, and they face directly south and north. The outer end of the entrance is formed on the other side by some great rocks, and on this side by a high and sandy hill which almost ends in a round point and has at its skirt in the water some white rocks like little farallones; this point Commander Rivera reached when he came to explore this port, and planted a cross upon it. The coast of the entrance on the other side runs from east-northeast to west- southwest; this I observed on the first of April, from the other side of the estuary or port, when I went there, and it appears to be all of red rocky material. The coast of the entrance on this side runs from northeast to southwest, not straight but forming a bend, on the beach of which a stream empties that flows from the pond where we halted ; we called it the Arroyo del Puerto. The boat can reach this stream to get water, for on the entire stretch of the shore at the mouth the sea is quiet and the waves do not break on the beach as they do on the shore of the open sea. The Punta de Almejas, in relation to the outer point of the entrance on this side, lies to the south, and must be some three leagues distant in an air-line. The beach, which consists of sand-dimes, forms almost a semicircle. The Punta de Reyes, on the other side, in relation to the said outer point of the entrance, lies north- west b}^ west; the coast, as far as the said point, must be some twelve leagues in length, and does not run evenly, but forms a bight or bay, which is not very large, from what I could see at a distance of about three or four leagues. Some six or eight leagues out to sea, a group of rather large rocky islets (farallones) can be seen — they have this form : [Frontispiece, fig. 1] and lie, in relation to the outer point of the entrance, west by south. West of the said point, farther out, four other farallones can be seen — they look like this : [Frontispiece, fig. 2] . [67] 68 Academy of Pacific Coast History. Segun noticias que adquiri, el puerto de Bodega descubierto por el S"" Capitan de la Goleta D^^ Juan de la Quadra y Bodega dia 3. de Octubre de 1775. situado bajo la latitud de 38? 18: cae unas quatro leguas al norte de la punta de reyes, cuya boea la forman la punta del cordon por este lado y por el otro la punta de are- nas ; y a una legua al noroeste de la boca cae la punta de Murguia, por la qual sigue la costa. Desde la punta interior de la boca sigue el famoso puerto de San Francisco y este consiste en una grande ensenada 6 estero que le llaman que tendra unas veinte y cineo leguas de largo y mirado desde la boca corre como de sud- este a noroeste, a cuya mitad esta la entrada 6 boea. Lo mas de la playa del puerto, segun la vi quando le dimos buelta, no es limpia sino lodosa, atascosa, y llena de zanjones, y por esto mala. Lo ancho del puerto no es igual pues en el extremo del sudeste tendra una legua, en la mitad unas quatro leguas, y en el ex- tremo del noroeste remata con una gran baia de algo mas de ocho leguas segun me parecio, cuya playa vi limpia y no atascosa como la antecedente y tiene la figura quasi redonda, aunque se le notan varios recodos, con los quales en tan larga distancia no pude distinguir bien su figura. Como a la mitad de la bahia por la costa de este lado esta el desague 6 desemboque del que hasta ahora se tuvo por rio muy grande y se ha llamado el rio de San Francisco, y yo de aqui adelante le llamare la boca del puerto dulce, por los experimentos que se hicieron quando fuimos a su reeonocimiento y dire mas adelante. Dentro del puerto conte ocho islas : la primera que se ofrece al entrar al puerto, cuyo centro mirado desde la punta exterior de la boca de este lado, cae respecto de ella al nordeste quarta al norte, y esta como a una legua de la boca, se llama la isla del angel, 6 de los angeles, detras de la qual dio fondo el barco San Carlos Enf rente la boca hay una muy pequeiia, como Farallon y otra no tan pequeGa y como al sudeste otra mas grande : otra bien larga se mira al extremo del sudeste muy [68] Diary of Pedro Font. 69 According to the particulars that I obtained, the Puerto de 1775 Bodega, — discovered on October 3, 1775, by Don Juan de la^^^ Bodega y Quadra, captain of the schooner [Sonora] — situated in latitude 38° 18', lies some four leagues north of the Punta de Reyes. Its entrance is formed, on this side, by the Punta del Cordon, and on the other, by the Punta de Arenas. One league northwest of the entrance lies the Punta de JNIurguia, and from there the coast runs on. From the interior point of the entrance runs the wonderful port of San Francisco; this consists of a great bay or estero, as they call it, which must be some twenty-five leagues in length, and, as seen from the entrance, runs about southeast and north- west; at the middle is the entrance or mouth. The greater part of the shore of the port, as I saw it when we made the circuit of it, is not clear, but miry, marshy, and full of ditches, and is consequently bad. The width of the port is not uniform — at the southeastern end it must be a league; in the middle, some four leagues ; and at the northwestern end it terminates in a great bay of upwards of eight leagues, as it seemed to me. I found the shore of this bay clean, and not marshy like the former; in shape it is nearly round, although various bights were noticed in it, which at so great a distance prevented me from clearly dis- tinguishing its shape. At about the middle of the bay, along the coast of this side, is the outlet or mouth of what has hitherto been taken to be a very large river, and has been called the Rio de San Francisco ; I shall, henceforth, call it the Boca del Puerto Dulce, because of the investigations that were made when we went to examine it, of which I shall speak later. Inside the port I counted eight islands, and I cannot state whether there are more. The first to be met on entering the port — its center, observed from the outer point of the entrance, on this side, lies northwest by north in respect to this point, and is about one league from the entrance — is called the Isla del Angel, or de los Angeles ; behind it the San Carlos anchored. It must be one short league in length and, seen from the entrance, has this form : [Frontispiece, fig. 3] . Opposite the entrance there is a very small islet, like a farallon, and another, not so small ; and about south- east, another large one. Another quite long one can be seen at [69] 70 Academy of Pacific Coast History. pegada a tierra. Otra como de tres leguas de largo tambien pegada a la tierra se ve de la boca para el noroeste y cerea de ella otras dos pequenas, las quales parece que por esse lado empiezan a formar la gran bahia en que remata todo esse imenso pielago de aguas, que por encerradas y rodeadas de sierra estan tan quietas como en una taza. Finalmente en la Bahia, y en- frente la Boca del Puerto dulce hay una isla mediana a mas de las dichas. Dia 28. Determino el S'" Comandante fixar la S*^ Cruz en el extremo del cantil bianco de la punta interior de la boca del puerto, y a las ocho de la maiiana fuimos para alia. Subimos una lomita eorta, y luego entramos en una mesa muy despejada de bastante extension y plana con alguna declinacion para el puerto, la qual tendra como media legua de ancho y algo mas de largo, y se va estrechando hasta rematar en el mismo cantil bianco. Logra esta mesa de una deliciosissima vista, pues desde ella se descubre una buena parte del puerto y sus islas, la boca del puerto, y del mar lo que alcanza la vista hasta mas alia de los farallones. Esta mesa sefialo el S'^ Comandante para sitio de la nueba poblacion, y fuerte que se havia de establecer en este Puerto, pues por estar en alto esta tan dominante que a fusilazos se puede defender la entrada de la boca del puerto, y a un tiro de fusil tiene el agua para la munutension de la gente que es el manantial 6 laguna en donde paramos. Bolvi a reconocer la boca del puerto y su configuracion con un Grafometro y procure demarcarla ; cuyo plan es el que aqui pongo, y desde alii determino el S*" Comandante ir a registrar las lomas que van para lo interior del puerto, las quales miradas desde el arroyo de San ]\Iatheo hacen esta figura [Frontispiece, fig. 4] para ver si en aquellas imediaciones hallaba buenas proporciones para la comodidad de la nueba poblacion. Acompaiie al S^ Comandante un rato, y a las diez de la maiiana, prosiguiendo el S^ Comandante con el Theniente su registro me bolvi al real para poder observar. Ob- serve la altura de este puerto y lo halle en 37? 49: Y assi digo: [70] Diary op Pedro Font. 71 the southeastern end, very close to the land. Another, about 1776 three leagues in length, also close to the land, is seen towards the ^"^ northwest from the entrance ; near it there are two other small ones, which, apparently, begin on that side to form the great bay in which terminates all this immense body of water; this being closed in and surrounded by mountains is as quiet as in a cup. Finally, in the bay and opposite the Boca del Puerto Dulce, there is a medium-sized island, besides those already mentioned. March 28. — The commander decided to erect the holy cross on the extremity of the white cliff at the inner point of the entrance to the port, and we went there at eight o'clock in the morning. We ascended a small low hill, and then entered a table-land, entirely clear, of considerable extent, and flat, with a slight slope towards the port; it must be about half a league in width and a little more in length, and keeps narrowing until it ends in the white cliff. This table-land commands a most wonderful view, as from it a great part of the port is visible, with its islands, the entrance, and the ocean, as far as the eye can reach — even farther than the farallones. The commander marked this table-land as the site of the new settlement, and the fort which is to be astab- lished at this port, for, from its being on a height it is so com- manding that the entrance of the mouth of the port can be defended by musket-fire, and at the distance of a musket-shot there is water for the use of the people, that is, the spring or pond where we halted. I again examined the mouth of the port and its configuration with a graphometer, and attempted to survey it; the plan of it is the one I here set down. From there the commander decided to go and inspect the low hills leading toward the inner part of the port — which, seen from the Arroyo de San Mateo have this form : [Frontispiece, fig. 4] — to see whether in those surroundings there were adequate facilities for the comfort of the new settlement. I accompanied the com- mander for a while, and, at ten in the morning, the commander and the lieutenant continuing the exploration, returned to the camp to make an observation. I observed the latitude of this port and found it to be 37° 49'; so I say: At the mouth of the [71] 72 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas En la boca del Puerto de S'^ Francisco, dia 28. de Marzo de 1776 : Legnas Altiira meridiana del bordo inferior del Sol : 55? 21: Como a las cinco de la tarde bolvieron del registro el S'^ Comandante y el Theniente muy contentos, por haver hallado mas de lo que esperaban en el reeinto de estas lomas cuya extension sera de Unas tres leguas. En ellas y en sus canadas eneontraron mucho bosque y leiia, mucha agua en varios manantiales 6 lagunas, bastantes tierras de pan llevar, y en fin muchissimo pasto en todo el terreno : de modo, que puede lograr la nueva poblacion mucha leiia, agua, y zacate 6 pasto para cavallada, todo cerca : y solo le faltan maderas para fabricas grandes, aunque para jaeales y bar- raeas y para estacada del Presidio hay bastante palizada en los bosques. Y con una corta providencia que se de se pueden lograr las maderas como las quisieren pues desde unas seys leguas mas alia del arroyo de S*^ Joseph Cupertino hasta unas tres leguas mas aca del arroyo de S'^ Francisco sigue un llano como de quinze leguas que le llaman el llano de los robles por estar muy tupido de ellos y de todos tamanos del qual se pueden sacar muy buenas maderas. A mas de esto, desde las cercanias del arroyo de las llagas sigue hasta la punta de almejas una serrania muy alta lo mas de ella tupida de pinabetes y otros arboles los quales llegan hasta la Canada de S'^ Andres de la qual hablare maiiana : y de estos parages se puede sacar la madera quanta se quisiere de todos tamanos, y no con mucho trabajo, pues la saca no esta muy dificultosa. Los yndios que vimos en el camino desde monterey parecen mansos, y de buena condicion, y muy pobres y por lo desarmados que se presentaron no dieron muestras de belicosos ni malintencionados ; y los que habitan en las cercanias del Puerto son bastantemente barbados pero en el color no se dis- tinguen de los demas. 96 Dia 29. Salimos de la Laguna 6 manantial de donde nace el arroyo del puerto a las siete y quarto de la maiiana, y a las seys y media de la tarde paramos en el arroyo de San Matheo, haviendo caminado unas quinze leguas, por el rodeo que hicimos y voy a 15 decir, pues desde el puerto a dicho arroyo solo havra unas seys leguas largas por el camino recto. Con el motivo de lo que se [72] Diary of Pedro Font. 73 port of San Francisco, March 28, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 55° 21'. About five in the afternoon the commander and the lieutenant returned from their exploration very much pleased, as they had found more than they hoped for in the district of the low hills, which extended for some three leagues. In these hills and their canyons they found much brush and firewood, plenty of water in various springs or ponds, much tillable ground, and also plenty of pasture everywhere, so that the new settlement can obtain much wood, water, and grass or pasturage for their horses, all close at hand — there is lacking only timber for large edifices, although for huts and barracks, and for the stockade of the presidio there is sufficient material in the woods. With a little forethought, however, they can obtain the lumber just as they want it, for from about six leagues beyond the Arroyo de San Joseph Cupertino to some three leagues this side of the Arroyo de San Francisco there lies a plain about fifteen leagues in extent, called the Llano de los Robles because it is very densely grown with all sizes of oaks, from which very good lumber may be taken out. Besides this, from the neighborhood of the Arroj^o de las Llagas there extends as far as the Punta de Almejas a very high range, the greater part of it densely covered with spruce and other trees which extend as far as the Canada de San Andres, of which I shall speak tomorrow. From these places wood can be obtained in any desired quantity and size without much trouble, for it is not hard to get out. The Indians that we saw on the road to Monterey seem to be gentle, good-natured, and very poor, and as they presented them- selves unarmed they gave no sign of being warlike or ill-inten- tioned. Those who live near the port are pretty well bearded, but in color are not distinct from the others. March 29. — At a quarter past seven in the morning we set out from the lake or spring where the Arroyo del Puerto has its source, and halted, at half-past six in the evening, at the Arroyo de San Mateo, having travelled some fifteen leagues by the round- about which we took and of which I am going to speak, as from the port to the Arroyo de San Mateo it is only some six full leagues by the direct road. [73] 74 Academy of Pacific Coast History. registro ayer determino el S"" Comandante salir del piierto dando buelta a las lomas que lo cercan en las imediaciones de la boca, y seguir su playa interior hasta salir a la tierra liana ; por lo qual despacho la requa por el camino recto con orden de que parasse en el arroyo de San Matheo ; y cogiendo nosotros distincto rumbo, caminamos como una legua al este, una al estsudeste, y una al sudeste, y llegamos a un hermoso arroyo, que por ser viernes de Dolores le llamamos el arroyo de los dolores. Desde un altito observe aqui el rumbo del puerto por este viento y vl que su ex- tremo caia al estsudeste ; y que un Pinabete muy alto que de muy lexos se divisa descollando como una gran torre en el llano de los robles, y esta a la orilla del arroyo de S" Francisco, cuya altura medi despues, caia al sudeste. Caminamos como tres leguas mas con rumbo al sur al sudoeste y al oestnoroeste dando buelta a las lomas hasta salir al llano y encontramos con el camino por el qual anduvimos un poco con rumbo al sudeste. Aqui deter- mino el S^ Comandante passar a registrar una canada imediata llamada de S"" Andres que esta en la serrania de pinabetes (que tambien llaman palo Colorado) y remata en la punta de almejas con el fin de ver si tenia buenas maderas para la poblacion del puerto. Por lo qual dexando el camino caminamos como una legua corta al sudoeste, y algo al sur y entramos en dicha caiiada en la qual vimos siguiendola mucho bosque y con mucha palizada y varia de buena madera, enzinos, madronos, pinabete y tambien alamos y otros arboles y mucho varejon en la orilla del arroyo 6 laguna larga y angosta que sigue por esta canada y de ella se forma el arroyo de San ]\Iatheo, que sale al llano por una angos- tura que forman unas lomas. Caminamos unas quatro leguas con rumbo al sudeste y sudeste quarta al sur. y passamos el arroyo de S'^ Matheo que aqui entra por la augostura de las lomas, y como una legua antes nos salio al camino un osso muy grande que se logro matarlo, de los quales hay muchos por essas tierras. Luego caminamos unas dos leguas al estsudeste, y dan- [74] Diary of Pedro Font. 75 As a result of the reconnoissance made yesterday, the com- 1775 mander decided to set out from the port by skirting the hills "HT^^ which surround it in the vicinity of the mouth, and to follow the inner shore until he should reach the level ground. For this rea- son he sent off the pack-train by the direct road with orders to stop at the Arroyo de San Mateo. We ourselves, taking a different route, travelled about one league to the east, one to the east- southeast, and one to the southeast, and arrived at a beautiful stream, which, because this was the Friday of Sorrows, we called the Arroyo de los Dolores. From a slight eminence, I here observed the lay of the port from this point and saw that its extremity lay to the east-south- east. I also noticed that a very high spruce tree, which is to be seen at a great distance, rising up, like a great tower, from the Llano de los Robles — it stands on the banks of the Arroyo de San Francisco; later on I measured its height — lay to the southeast. We travelled about three leagues more to the south, the south- west, and the west-northwest, skirting the hills until we came out on the plain and struck the road, by which we proceeded a short distance to the southeast. Here the commander decided to go and examine a nearby canyon, called the Canada de San Andres, which lies in the range wooded with spruce — they also call this tree palo Colorado [redwood] — and terminates at the Punta de Almejas, in order to see if it contained good timber for the settlement at the port. AYe therefore left the road and travelled about one short league to the southwest, and a little south, and entered this canyon. As we followed it we saw much woodland with thick undergrowth and several kinds of good timber: oak, madrono, spruce, as well as poplars and other trees, and much shrubbery on the banks of the long narrow stream or lake that runs through this canyon and gives rise to the Arroyo de San ]\Iateo, which issues into the plain through a narrow opening between some hills. We travelled about four leagues southeast and southeast by south, and crossed the Arroyo de San IMateo, which here penetrates the narrow opening in the hills. About a league back, a huge bear, which we succeeded in killing, appeared in our path — there are many bears throughout this district. We [75] 76 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas dose por suficiente el registro de esta Canada se determino ir para Leguas el real, y atravessando unas lomas altas eaminamos unas dos leguas con rumbo quasi al norte, hasta llegar al parage. 97 Dia 30. Salimos del arroyo de San Matheo a las siete y quarto de la nianana, y a las quatro de la tarde paramos del otro lado de un rio, que le llamamos el rio de Guadalupe (el qual, desagua en el extremo del puerto y como una legua antes de desaguar esta muy profundo por tener el agua muy rebalsada y sin corriente) haviendo caminado unas doze leguas con rumbo 12 vario. Al salir seguimos el camino de la ida unas seys leguas con el rumbo correspondiente hasta llegar al arroyo de S° Francisco, en cuya orilla esta el pinabete que dixe ayer, cuya altura medi con el Grafometro y lo halle a poco mas o menos segun el calculo que hize, de unas cincuenta varas de alto, y el tronco tenia por el pie cinco varas y media de circumferencia, y dixeron los solda- dos que aun havia mayores en las sierras. Con la determinacion de ir a registrar el rio grande que llamaban de San Francisco, y se decia desaguaba en el puerto por la parte del norte, desde aqui dexamos el camino que traximos a la venida, y mudando de rumbo eaminamos para el agua, pero apartados de ella como una legua, y en partes mas, por causa de los atascaderos, y seguimos unas tres leguas con rumbo al este : luego eaminamos empezando a descabezar este extremo del puerto como tres leguas al nordeste, y al ultimo culebreando de oeste a este para vadear el rio, y hasta el parage. 98 Dia 31. Salimos del Rio de Guadalupe a las ocho de la manana, y a las quatro de la tarde paramos en la orilla del arroyo de S° Salvador, llamado por otro nombre al arroyo de la harina haviendo caminado unas diez leguas largas, con el rumbo vario: 10 al principio como una legua corta al nomoroeste, y luego por causa de los zanjones y atascaderos fuimos variando como tres leguas al estnordeste, y nordeste culebreando hasta salir de los zanjones y tierra baja en donde estabamos, y coger tierra mas [76] March Diary of Pedro Font. 77 then travelled some two leagues to the east-southeast, and the 1775 examination of the canyon being considered sufificient, it was decided to proceed to the camp, where we arrived after crossing some high hills and travelling about two leagues almost due north. March 30. — "We set out from the Arroyo de San Mateo at a quarter past seven in the morning, and, after travelling about twelve leagues in various directions, halted at four in the after- noon on the other side of a river which we called the Rio de Guadalupe. This river empties into the [southern] extremity of the port, and a league above its mouth it is very deep, as it is backed up and has no current. On setting out we followed, for some six leagues, the road we had come, taking the corresponding directions, until we arrived at the Arroyo de San Francisco. Beside this stream is the redwood tree I spoke of yesterday; I measured its height with the graphometer which they lent me at the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo, and, according to my reckoning, found it to be some fifty yards high, more or less ; the trunk was five yards and a half in circumference at the base, and the soldiers said that there were still larger ones in the mountains. For the purpose of going to examine the large river called the Rio de San Francisco, which is said to flow into the port on the northern side, we here left the road by which we had come, and, changing our direction, followed the water, but keeping at a distance of about a league from it, and in some places even more, on account of the marshes. We proceeded for some three leagues to the east ; then, beginning to round the extremity of the port, we travelled about three leagues to the northeast, at the end winding from west to east to ford the river and reach camp. jMarch 31. — We set out from the Rio de Guadalupe at eight in the morning, and, at four in the afternoon, halted on the bank of the Arroyo de San Salvador — otherwise called the Arroj'o de la Harina — having travelled some ten long leagues with varying directions: at first, about one short league to the north-northwest, and then, on account of the sloughs and marshes, we kept on for about three leagues, changing from east-northeast to northeast, winding about until we got clear of the sloughs and low ground where we were, and gained higher ground along the foot of the [77] 78 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas alta por el pie de las lomas que siguen hasta la bahia y boca del Leguas puerto dulce : luego caminamos muy apartados del agua unas dos leguas con rumbo al nornoroeste, y otras dos al noroeste. Los yndios que por aqui vimos son totalmente distinetos de los pas- sados en el lenguage, algo barbados mansos y muy pobres, pero en el color lo mismo que todos los demas. 99 Dia 1. de Abril. Salimos del Arroyo de la harina a las siete de la manana y a las quatro y media de la tarde paramos en un arroyito de muy poca agua cerca la bahia, y como a una legua antes de llegar a la boca del puerto dulce, haviendo caminado Unas catorze leguas con el rumbo como nueve al oestnoroeste : 14 luego unas tres al noroeste y al no noroeste quarta al oeste Desde el parage se oia algo el ruido del mar, como que en la bahia rebientan algo las olas en la playa aunque no cosa mayor. Desde una loma alta antes de llegar al parage estuvimos mirando la bahia, que desde alii se descubre lo mas de ella, y vi que esta rodeada de lomas y serrania por todas partes, excepto una abra grande que cae como al oeste quarta al noroeste, en donde por un buen trecho corre una lengua de tierra baxa detras de la qual 6 mas alia, se divisaba blanquear como agua y se estendia hasta otra serrania que a lo ultimo y muy lexos se veia azulear. Yo discurri si tal vez por aquella parte tendria comunicacion la bahia con el puerto de bodega que por las corrientes que experi- mento en el el S"" Cap° D'* Juan de la Quadra quando estuvo alii no pudo distinguir si era mar 6 rio, y dicho puerto no cae muy lexos de la bahia por esse rumbo segun entiendo ; pero esto no es mas que conjetura. 100 Dia 2. Salimos del Arroyito a las siete de la manana, y pas- samos por una rancheria a la qual nos convidaron que fuessemos unos diez yndios que vinieron al real muy de manana cantando, y nos recibieron los Yndios de la rancheria, que regule de unas [78] Diary of Pedro Font. 79 hills which extend to the bay and the mouth of the Puerto Dulee. 1776 We then travelled, at a long distance from the water, for about ^^^[^ two leagues to the north-northwest, and two more to the north- west. The Indians that we saw hereabouts are, in language, entirely distinct from those we have passed ; they have some beard ; are docile and very poor; but in color they are the same as all the rest. April 1. — We set out from the Arroyo de la Harina at seven j.„.j; in the morning, and, at half-past four in the afternoon, halted at a small stream which had very little water, near the bay and about a league before you come to the Boca del Puerto Dulce. We liad travelled some fourteen leagues : about nine to the west- northwest; then about three northwest and north by west, up and down along hills which from here begin to form the bay; and the remainder, northwest, north-northwest, and a little north, winding, all this stretch, along the hills mentioned. From the camping-place, the sound of the sea could be faintly heard, for in the bay the waves break on the shore, though with no great force. Just before arriving at the camp, we looked out on the bay from a high hill, as from there most of it is visible, and I saw that it is surrounded on all sides by hills and mountains, except for a great opening which lies about west by north, in which direction a low tongue of land extends for a long stretch. Behind this, or farther off, we saw what looked like water extending to another range, which at last became blue in the remote distance. I wondered if in that direction the bay might not perhaps com- municate with the Puerto de Bodega, for Captain Don Juan de la [Bodega y] Quadra could not tell, from the currents that he observed when he was there, whether it was sea or river. The Puerto de Bodega, as I understand, is not far distant from the bay in that direction — but this is only conjecture. April 2. — We set out from the small stream at seven in the morning and passed through a village where we were invited to go by some ten Indians who very early in the morning came to the camp singing. The Indians of the village, whom I estimated [79] 80 Academy of Pacific Coast History. quatrocientas almas eon singulares demonstraeiones de alegria cantando y baylando. Caminamos como una legua larga al norte y nordeste y a las nueve llegamos a la orilla del agua y muy cerca de la boea del puerto dulce para dentro senalado en el mapa con la letra I. tenido hasta ahora por rio grande, que no lo es segim los experimentos que hizimos y razones que dire. Aqui determino el S'' Comandante detenernos hasta despues de medio dia para poder observar la altura de este parage. Desde que llegamos a la orilla del agua entramos en duda de que fuesse rio porque no le notamos corriente ni tenia el agua mas movimiento que el que observamos en la boca del puerto de S° Francisco en donde le notamos un movimiento muy suave y dissimulado eausado sin duda de la marea. A mas de esto no notamos en la margen seiial alguna de creciente, ni menos basura 6 palizada que era natural traxesse en sus crecientes si fuesse rio, y mas rio tan caudaloso. Y aunque se quisiesse decir que el no traer basura es porque su origen no sera de muy lexos, y que passa por tierras limpias de donde no puede sacar palizadas y otras cosas; a lo menos se deberia conceder que havia de tener crecientes, y si las tuviera dexaria seilales de ellas en sus margenes : pero estas se ven sin senal alguna : y sus playas en algunas partes donde las tiene son como las que vimos en el puerto. Es pues este puerto dulce un golfo de agua dulce encerrada en un caxon de lomas mediana- mente altas por un lado y otro, que corre quasi al este por espacio de Unas seys leguas y despues se ensancha muchissimo en unos immensos llanos, de los quales hablare maiiana y passado maiiana. Sus margenes son muy acantiladas en partes, y en partes forma una corta playa en la qual cerca la boca havia grandes rimeros de almeja de agua dulce. Probe el agua.y la encontre salada aunque no tanto como la del mar afuera. Vimos alii unas lanchas de tule muy bien hechas, y en medio del agua estavan unos indios en una pescando, que en todo este golfo del puerto dulce logran los yndios gran pesca de excelentes pescados, y entre ellos el salmon riquissimo y en abundancia. Vi que pescaban con redes y que atrancaban la lancha con unos palos delgados y muy [80] Diary of Pedro Font. 81 at about four hundred souls, received us with marked demonstra- tions of pleasure, singing and dancing. We travelled about one long league to the north and northeast, and, at nine o'clock, arrived at the water's edge very near the mouth of the Puerto Dulce, on the inside — marked on the map with the letter I. Hitherto this port has been held to be a large river, but [that] it is not [is evident] from the tests that we made and for the reasons which I shall give. The commander decided to remain here until afternoon, in order to observe the latitude. As soon as we had reached the water's edge we began to doubt whether it was a river, for we did not notice any current, and the water had no more movement than what we observed at the mouth of the port of San Francisco, where we noted a very quiet and unapparent motion, due, no doubt, to the tide. Furthermore, we noticed on the shore no indication whatever of floods, not even driftwood or logs which it would naturally bring down in its floods if it was a river, especially a river so great. And if it be said that it does not bring down driftwood because its source is not very distant, and that it runs through open country where it cannot carry awaj^ logs or other things, at least it must be conceded that it must have floods, and, if it had them, it would leave signs of them along its banks ; on these, however, there are no indications whatever to be seen, and its shores, where it has them, are like those we saw in the port. So then, this Puerto Dulce is a fresh-water gulf, enclosed in a basin of fairly high hills on both sides ; it runs almost due east for a distance of about six leagues, and afterwards widens out very greatly in some im- mense plains of which I shall speak tomorrow and the day after. The banks are in some places very steep, and in others form a short beach, on which, in the vicinity of the mouth, there were great mounds of fresh-water mussels. I tasted the water and found it salty, although not so much so as that of the open sea. We saw there some very well made rafts of tule, and out in the water there were some Indians on one fishing, for in all this gulf of the Puerto Dulce the Indians get a great catch of excellent fish — among others, excellent salmon in abundance. I saw that they were fishing with nets, and that they held the raft in place by means of very long, thin poles. Their method of doing this [81] 82 Academy of Pacific Coast History. largos : pero en el modo de atranearla me confirme en la sospecha Leguas 6 juieio que ya me havia hecho de que la agua no tenia corriente para la bahia, pues repare que atraneaban la lancha contra la parte de arriba y mirando para la parte opuesta a la boea, lo que parece havia de ser al contrario si el agua corriesse para aba jo. Visto que con dichos palos atraneaban la lancha es natural que llegassen al fondo, por lo qual medi uno de dichos palos y halle que tenia onze varas y media de largo ; con que quitando un buen pedazo que queda fuera del agua de la lancha para arriba del qual estan asidos los yndios Pescadores regule por esta congetura que tendria el agua unas nueve 6 diez varas de fondo, y sus aguas estan muy quietas y sossegadas. Desde un altito imediato al agua y distante de la boca como un quarto de legua para arriba observe lo ancho de la boca, y por la observacion que hize calcule que tendra poco menos de un quarto de legua de ancho. En la Bahia y enfrente de la boca hay una isla que tendra de largo algo mas de una legua de este a oeste, y como un quarto de legua de ancho, y esta cerca la dicha boca no de medio a medio sino declinada a la banda del norte. El caxon del agua corre para el este no recto sino formando recodos y calas, y su anchor en sub- stancia es el mismo que el de la boca hasta unas tres leguas para arriba, que despues ya empieza a abrirse mas. En este mismo parage observe su altura y lo halle en 38? 5: %. Y assi digo. En la Boea del puerto dulce, dia 2. de Abril de 1776 : Altura meri- diana del bordo inferior del sol: 57? Despues de medio dia sali- mos de la Boca del puerto dulce y a las cinco de la tarde paramos en la orilla del arroyo, que en la expedicion del S'" Cap*^ D"^ Pedro Fages llamaron el Arroyo de Santa Angela de Pulgino, haviendo caminado por todo unas siete leguas largas. El rumbo 7 de las seys de esta tarde fue dos leguas al este, por lo alto de las lomas pegadas al agua^ y una al estsudeste por una cafiada arriba por la qual bolvimos a salir a lo alto de las lomas imediatas al agua. Desde esse alto vimos que el agua aqui hace un recodo de este lado y se enc/iancha como otro tanto que en la boca y que en la margen del otro lado en derechura de este parage sobresale un poco una punta de tierra, y cerca de ella tiene un penasco 6 [82] Diary of Pedro Font. 83 confirmed me in the belief or opinion which I had already 1776 fonned, that the water had no current toward the bay, for I "^^ noticed that they put the poles on the upstream side, facing the side opposite the mouth — seemingly contrariwise to what would have been done if the water were running downstream. Seeing that the raft was held in place by these poles, it is natural to suppose that they reached bottom, so I measured one of them, and found that it was eleven and a half yards long. Now allow- ing for a considerable piece that remains out of the water above the raft, and which the Indian fishermen hold on to, I estimated, on this supposition, that the water must be about nine or ten yards deep, and it is very quiet and calm. From a small eminence close to the water, and about a quar- ter of a league above the mouth, I observed the width of the entrance, and from the observation I calculated it to be a little less than a quarter of a league. In the bay, and in front of the mouth [of the Puerto Dulce] , there is an island which lies east and west, and must be rather more than a league long, by about a quarter of a league wide; it is near the mouth, not quite in the middle of it, but tending a little to the north. The basin runs to the east — not straight, but with bends and turns; its width is practically the same as that of the entrance for about three leagues up, afterwards it begins to widen out. At this place I observed the latitude and found it to be 38° 51/2'; so I say : At the Boca del Puerto Dulce, April 2, 1776, meridian alti- tude of the lower limb of the sun, 57°. After midday we set out from the Boca del Puerto Dulce, and, at five in the afternoon, halted on the bank of the stream which on the expedition of Captain Don Pedro Fages was named the Arroyo de Santa Angela de Fulgino. We had travelled in all about seven long leagues. The directions of the six leagues [covered during] the afternoon were: two to the east, along the crest of the hills which are close to the water; and one to the east-southeast, going upstream through a canyon by which we came out again on the crest of the hills near the water. From the height we saw that on this bank the water here makes a turn, and is about as wide again as at the mouth, and that on the other bank, directly opposite, a point of land projects a [83] 84 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas faralloD dentro del agua. Mirando para el nordeste vimos un im- Leguas menso llano sin arboleda alguna para donde se extiende mucho el agna formando en el varias isletas fin del otro lado del llano tan extendido, y como a distancia de Tinas quarenta leguas divisamos una gran sierra nevada euyo rumbo me parecio correr de sursudeste a nornoroeste. Baxamos de lo alto de las loraas, y haviendo eaminado como media legua al nordeste, eaminamos unas tres leguas al estsudeste hasta parar en el arroyo. Acudieron al real muchos yndios que aunque man- sos al parecer se acreditaron algo de ladrones en especial en orden a ropa a la qual se incli- naban y tiraban mucho manifestandose deseosos de adquirirla y posseerla. El Arroyo de Santa Angela de fulgino esta en un llano de bastante extension, y bien poblado de robles, y otros arboles, y no seria mal parage para poblacion si el arroyo fuesse permanente que parece no lo es pues lo hallamos sin corriente y solo con unos charquitos de poca agua y no muy buena. Este parage dista de la ribera del puerto dulce algo mas de una legua. Dia 3. Salimos del Arroyo de Santa Angela de fulgino a las siete y quarto de la maiiana y a las quatro y tres quartos de la tarde paramos en la orilla del agua dulce en un parage de una rancheria despoblada, haviendo eaminado unas diez leguas largas lo eon el rumbo que ire diciendo. Atravessamos el llano, en donde haviamos parado, y eaminamos por el unas tres leguas con rumbo al estnordeste, y luego entramos en una caiiada, y haviendo eaminado por ella como una legua al nordeste llegamos a lo alto de la loma que yo le llamo puerto dulce por su quietud y porque desde mas atras ya se encuentra el agua dulce y buena. Desde dicha loma que distara del agua cosa de una legua, vieron su extension el Sr. Cap^ Fages y el P. Crespi y que se dividia en brazos, con los quales se forman [84] 101 Diary of Pedro Font. 85 little, with a rock or farallon near it in the water. Looking to the northeast we saw an immense treeless plain into which the water spreads widely, forming several low i.slets; at the opposite end of this extensive plain, about forty leagues off, we saw a great snow-covered mountain range, which seemed to me to run from south-southeast to north-northwest. We descended from the crest of the hills, and, having gone about half a league to the northeast, we travelled some three leagues east-southeast, as far as the halting-place at the Arroyo [de Santa Angela de Fulgino]. Many Indians came to the camp and, although they seemed docile, were impertinent and proved themselves thievishly disposed, especially as regards clothing, for which they showed a weakness, manifesting a desire to acquire and possess it. The Arroyo de Santa Angela de Fulgino is in a plain of con- siderable extent, well wooded with oaks and other trees. It would not be a bad place for a settlement if the stream were permanent, which it does not appear to be, for we found that it had no cur- rent, in fact only a few little pools containing a small quantity of water and not very good at that. This camping-place is some- thing over a league from the shore of the Puerto Dulce. April 3. — We set out from the Arroyo de Santa Angela de Fulgino at a quarter past seven in the morning, and, at a quarter of five in the afternoon, halted on the shore of the fresh-water [inlet] at a deserted village, having marched some ten long leagues in the direction I shall describe. We crossed the plain in which we had halted, and travelled through it about three leagues to the east-northeast; then we entered a canyon, and, having travelled along it for about a league to the northeast, came to the top of the hill marked on the map with the letter a. This was the farthest point reached by the exploring expedition made by Captain Don Pedro Fages, when, accompanied by Father Juan Crespi, he w^ent to reconnoitre the port of San Francisco. At this point Captain [Fages] saw the body of water which I call Puerto Dulce on account of its stillness, and because for quite a distance back the water is fresh and good. From this hill, which is about a league from the shore, Captain Fages and Father Crespi saw the extent of the water and that it was [85] 86 Academy of Pacific Coast History. Unas isletas de tierra baxa ; y como antes en el camino de atras ya harian probado el agua y la havian hallado dulce, sin duda se hicieron juicio que era algun rio muy grande y que aqui se dividia en tres brazos que de mas arriba se separaban formando dos islas y que poco mas aba jo de este parage al entrar en el caxon se bolvian a juntar, sin reparar en si tenia corriente 6 no, lo que ni era facil que reparassen desde dicha loma por estar retirada del agua. Yo vi el agua dividida no en tres brazos, sino en muchos formando varias isletas, y de estas conte hasta siete Unas algo grandes, y otras pequenas, todas de tierra baxa y largas y angostas : y el haver yo visto tantas islas, no haviendo visto mas que dos el S^ Cap° Fages y el P. Crespi consistiria sin duda en que ellos verian este ebarco de agua en marea alta y yo la vi en marea baxa, la qual en este puerto dulce crece y mengua bas- tante como dire maiiana. arriba gira como al nordeste y aun para el este hasta una sierra baxa que tiene arboleda la qual tapa al agua y no la dexa ver para mas alia, y la misma sierra vimos nosotros, a la qual &€. a la qual determino ir el S"" Comandante para ver mas de cerca el agua y su giro, y desengaiiarnos si era rio 6 no, pues aunque ya estava- mos quasi persuadidos a que no lo era todavia cabia alguna duda por estar apartados y no poder distinguir su movimiento, si acaso lo tuviesse. Baxamos pues de la loma y enderezamos el camino para dicha sierra, en la qual y detras de ella como al sudeste vimos bastante arboleda y que seguia para adelante. Luego que baxamos al llano, vimos cerca del agua, y en distancia como de una legua corta, una crecida manada de ciervos grandes, que en el nuevo mexico me parece llaman buros los quales son de unas siete quartas de alto, y tienen unas hastas como de dos varas de largo con varias ramas, y aunque se hizo la diligencia de coger alguno no se pudo lograr por su mucha velocidad en el correr y mas en esta ocasion, que se hallaban sin la cornamenta grande, que sin [86] Diary of Pedro Font. 87 divided into two arms which form some low-lying islets. As, farther back on the road, they had tasted the water and found it to be fresh, undoubtedly they formed the opinion that it was a very large river, and that at this point it was divided into three arms which separated farther up, forming two islands, and united again, a little below this place, on entering the strait; but they did not observe whether it had any current — which indeed was not easy to do from the hill, as it was at a distance from the water. I saw that the water was divided, not into three arms, but into many, and that it formed numerous islets; of these I counted as many as seven, some quite large and others small — all low-lying, long and narrow. That I saw so many islets, while Captain Fages and Father Crespi saw only two, was due, no doubt, to the fact that they saw this expanse of water at high, and I at low tide — there being a considerable ebb and flow in the Puerto Dulce, as I shall describe tomorrow. They saw the level country through which this body of water ramifies, and which constitutes the plain I spoke of yesterday, and they must have seen the great Sierra Nevada on the other side of the plain. Lastly, they saw that farther up the water turns toward the northeast and even east, as far as a low range covered with forest which hides the water and prevents it from being seen farther on. This [low] range we ourselves saw, and to it the com- mander decided to go in order to get a close view of the water and the turn, and to make sure whether or not it was a river ; for, although we were almost convinced that it was not, there still remained a doubt, as we were at a distance and unable to dis- tinguish its motion, if indeed it had any. We therefore descended the hill and directed our course toward the [low] range, on and beyond which we saw a considerable forest which continued to- ward the southeast. On descending to the plain we saw, near the water and about a short league away, a big herd of large deer, being, I think, what they call huros in New Mexico. They are about seven spans high, and have antlers about two yards long with several branches. Al- though an effort was made to get one, it was impossible, because they were very swift, and the more so at this time as they had shed their great antlers, which undoubtedly they do at seasons [87] 88 Academy of Pacific Coast History. duda a temporadas la mudan segun las muchas hastas que vimos por alii tiradas. Todo este terreno abunda mucho de dichos ciervos, y por los rastros que encontramos oy y manana, que son como los de res, no parece sino que por alii hay alguna crecidissima estancia de ganado. Seguimos por el llano, en derec[h]ura de la sierra emboscada seiialada en el mapa con la letra b., y haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas con rumbo al este quarta al nord- este, llegamos a una rancheria algo crecida, (cuyos Yndios, (que en el color y en todo son como los demas) nos recibieron de paz y aun con miedo,) la qual esta situada en el llano un poco antes de llegar a la sierra que ibamos buscando, y tan imediata al agua que de ella a los jacales no havria la distancia de doze passos. Aqui ya nos persuadimos que el que se llamaba rio, no es rio sino un gran pielago de agua dulce sin corriente que se estiende por essa llanura, a la qual llegaron a beber las bestias por su pie, y nosotros la probamos y la hallamos muy dulce y buena. Seguimos adelante con animo de subir a lo alto de la sierrita emboscada que no es muy alta para desde alii descubrir mejor el terreno y el curso del agua ; pero apenas salimos de la rancheria quando se nos atravesso una cienega y tular que nos hizo mudar de rumbo ; por lo qual cogiendo al estsudeste caminamos por una cuchilla de una lomita baxa, y luego entramos en un llano algo grande con bastantes robles ; y haviendo caminado como una legua larga llegamos a una loma pelada y no muy alta. Subimos a lo alto de esta loma que domina todo el llano, para descubrir el terreno, 3- vimos desde alii una confusion de agua tulares algo de cerca la sierra bosque y tierra liana con una extension desmedida. Si mirabamos para el este veiamos del otro lado del llano y en distancia de unas treinta leguas una gran sierra nevada, y blanca desde la cumbre hasta la falda que atravessada corria como de sudeste a nornor- oeste, y segun el rumbo que le pude demarcar me hize juicio que tal vez tendria essa sierra por la parte del sur algun enlaze con la sierra nevada que se desprende de la sierra madre de California mas arriba del puerto de San Carlos y camina como al noroeste hasta la mission de S^ Gabriel y mas alia, pero no le pudimos [88] Diary op Pedro Font. 89 judging from the many horns that we saw lying about. All this region abounds in these deer ; and the tracks, resembling those of cattle, that we found this day and the next, make it appear as if there was an immense herd of cattle thereabouts. We went on through the plain, making directly for the wooded range — marked on the map with the letter h — and, after having travelled about four leagues east by north, we came to a good- sized Indian village, the inhabitants of which (who are like the others in color and everything else) received us peaceably and even with trepidation. The village is situated in the plain a little before you come to the range we were heading for, and so close to the water that the huts were not more than twelve paces from it. Here we were finally convinced that this which was called a river, is not a river at all, but a great body of fresh water, without a current, which spreads over that level country; the animals came up to it of their own accord to drink, and we tasted the water ourselves and found it very fresh and good. [The place is] marked on the map with the letter c. We proceeded with the intention of going to the summit of the low wooded range, that from there we might the better view the country and the course of the water. However, we had scarcely left the village when a swamp and tule-patch obstructed our path and forced us to change our route ; so, swinging to the east-southeast, we travelled along the ridge of a low hill, and then came to a plain of considerable extent in which there were many oak-trees ; and having travelled about one long league, we came to a bare hill that was not very high. We climbed to the top of this hill, which dominates the entire plain, in order to observe the lay of the land, and from it saw a confusion of water, tule-patches, the mountains, nearby woods, and a vast extent of plain. Looking eastward, we saw on the other side of the plain and about thirty leagues distant a great snow-covered range, white from crest to foot. It lies about south- east and northwest, and from the direction I made out for it, I judged that it possibly might have some connection to the south- ward with the Sierra Nevada, which branches off from the Sierra Madre de California above the Puerto de San Carlos and runs northwestward as far as the mission of San Gabriel and beyond. [89] 90 Academy of Pacific Coast History. descubrir el remate ni del un extreme ni del otro. Bolviamos para el oeste, y veiamos, las lomas que en el camino venimos dexando, por entre las quales se metia 6 entraba el agua recogida, y que del otro lado del agua se abria una lomeria baxa, cuyo extreme que se le descubria en distaneia de unas quinze leguas, caia eomo al noroeste, y que de alii para adelante no se descubria otra eosa sino llano. Mirabamos para el sur y veiamos una sierra alta y pelada por lo exterior que corria como de sudeste a nor- oeste, y esta es la serrania que desde las imediaciones de la Mission de S*^ Luis venimos dexando a la derecha en todo el camino de la ida hasta llegar a la boea del puerto dulce que alii remata, y en cuyas faldas estan los valles de S*^ Delfina, por el qual corre el rio de monterey, el de S^ Bernarnino, y otros, con el llano de los robles que va para la boca del puerto de San Francisco. Asseguro un soldado, y dixo que conocia un picacho que se descubria en el remate de lo que se veia de esta sierra para el sudeste, y que no estaba muy lexos de un parage que llaman buenavista al qual reconocieron los soldados quando fueron para los tulares que caen cerca la mission de S° Luis en busca de unos desertores, y que si tirassemos para alia iriamos a salir en las imediaciones de la mission de S° Luis 6 de San Antonio. Bolviamos a mirar para el norte, y entre la lomeria baxa del noroeste y la sierra nevada mira- bamos un immenso llano que parece seguia el mismo rumbo de la sierra nevada por aquel lado, pero por el otro se abria como para el oeste con tanta extension que cogia quasi el semicirculo orizontal, y este es el llano por donde se extiende este pielago de agua dulce no seguidamente sino en trechos, dexando grandes pedazos sin anegar, 6 con poca agua en los quales se forman aquellos grandes y verdes tulares que empiezan desde cerca la mission de San Luis y segun su rumbo y esta cuenta cuenta tendran de largo mas de cien leguas hasta aqui sin contar con lo que se extienden para arriba cuyo fin no les pudimos ver y de ancho tendran unas veinte y cinco 6 treynta leguas. Yo discurri que estos tulares corren hasta las imediaciones del puerto de Bodega, y que aquel campo verde que el S'" Capitan D^^ Juan de la Quadra vio desde su puerto seran [90] Diary of Pedro Font. 91 However, we could not discern either end of the range. Turning 1776 westward, we saw the hills — through which the accumulated ^ .^ water empties or disemboguas — which we had passed on the way, and [observed] that, on the other side of the water, they spread out into low hilly country, the end of which was visible at a dis- tance of about fifteen leagues, lying toward the northwest ; and further, that from there on there was nothing discernible but plains. Looking southward, we saw a high range, bare on the exposed face, which ran from southeast to northwest. This is the range which in coming we had on our right throughout the entire journey from the vicinity of the mission of San Luis until we reached the Boca del Puerto Dulee, where it terminates. In the slopes of this range lie the valleys of Santa Delfina, — through which flows the Rio de Monterey — San Bernardino, and others, as well as the Llano de los Robles, which stretches toward the mouth of the port of San Francisco. (A soldier stated that he recognized a peak which was visible at the southeastern extremity of what could be seen of this range, and that it was not very far from a place called Buenavista, to which the soldiers had re- connoitred when they had gone to the tule-swamps near the mission of San Luis in search of some deserters. He said that if we should go in that direction we would come out in the neighborhood of the mission of San Luis or of San Antonio.) Turning now to the northward, we saw, between the low hills to the northwest and the Sierra Nevada, an immense plain which, on the farther side, seemed to follow the same direction as the latter, but on the other side, opened out, toward the west, to such an extent that it included almost half the horizon. This is the plain through which the great body of fresh water extends — not indeed continuously, but in streaks, leaving great areas uncov- ered or with but little water. In these areas it is, that are formed those extensive green tule-beds which begin near the mission of San Luis and, according to the bearings and this reckoning, must be in length over a hundred leagues to this point, — without con- sidering their upper extension, the end of which we could not see — and in breadth some twenty-five or thirty leagues. I sur- mised that these tule-swamps extend to the vicinity of the Puerto de Bodega, and that the green fields which Captain Don Juan de [91] 92 Academy op Pacific Coast History. tulares como estos que aqui vimos, 6 seran estos mismos continua- dos hasta alia. Visto esto determino el S"^ Comandante ir a parar a la orilla del agua, con animo de seguir algunas jornadas mas adelante, atravessar el llano y arrimarnos a la sierra nevada, para adelantar por alii este descubrimiento lo que se pudiesse : por lo qual baxando de la loma, caminamos como una legua por el tramos con un tular y atolladero que nos impidio el passo ; por lo llano, con rumbo al nordeste, pero antes de llegar al agua encon- qual variamos rumbo, y caminando como un quarto de legua al oeste llegamos a la orilla del agua y en un parage de una ran- cheria despoblada. Luego que paramos fuimos a ver el agua y probarla y la hallamos muy christalina fresca dulce y buena, a la qual llegaron a beber las bestias sin dificultad alguna, y vimos que estava con un movimiento suave causado del viento, y que azotaba la orilla 6 playa con unas blandas olas, pero no le reco- nocimos corriente ninguna. Y para probar si la tenia, cogio el S*" Comandante un palo mediano que remataba en una porrita, y lo tiro dentro del agua con la mayor fuerza que pudo, pero a poco rato vimos que en lugar de correr para aba jo, el agua con sus olitas lo bolvio a la orilla y advierto que segun vimos despues en esta ocasion estaba baxando la marea. En la playa no havia desechos de crecientes ni basura mas que algo de tule seco. Passo como una hora y bolvimos a ver el agua y reparamos que havia descubierto un buen pedazo de playa, y que el agua havia baxado como dos tercias segun los troncos descubiertos de unos arboles que havia en la orilla, y antes los haviamos visto cubiertos. De donde inferimos que el agua tenia su creciente y menguante como el mar, y que entonces iba baxando la marea : por lo qual quedo encargado el S^ Theniente con un criado, que en el discurso de la noche tuviesse cuydado de observar quando estuviesse mas baxa la marea y que midiesse todo lo que descubriesse de arenal 6 playa, y despues se observasse hasta donde subia en estando la [92] Diary of Pedro Font. 93 la [Bodega y] Quadra saw from his port must have been tule- swamps such as we saw here, or that these very swamps continue as far as that. In view of all this, the commander decided to go and camp beside the water with the intention of proceeding for a number of marches farther, crossing the plain and approaching the Sierra Nevada in order to push forward the present exploration as far as possible in that direction. Therefore, descending the hill, we travelled about a league across the plain toward the northwest; but before we reached the water we came upon a tule-swamp and marsh which stopped our progress. Consequently, we changed our route and, travelling about a quarter of a league westward, reached the water's edge at a place where there was an aban- doned Indian village. As soon as we halted, we went to look at the water and taste it, and we found it very limpid, cool, fresh, and good, and the animals went readily to it to drink. We saw that it had an easy motion caused by the wind, and that it lapped upon the shore or beach with gentle weaves, but Ave did not discover any current whatever in it. In order to prove whether or not it had a cur- rent, the commander took a good-sized stick having a knob on the end, and threw it with all his strength into the water; but in a little while we saw that, instead of floating downstream, it was washed upon the shore by the wavelets — I note also from what we saw afterwards that the tide was going down at the time. On the beach there was no driftwood left by the floods, nor any debris other than some dry reeds. About an hour after- wards, we returned to look at the water, and we observed that a good piece of the beach had been uncovered, and that the water had gone down about two feet, judging from the exposed trunks of some trees on the shore, which we had previously noticed were submerged. We inferred from this that the water ebbs and flows like the sea, and that the tide was then going out. On this ac- count, the lieutenant was directed to remain with a servant, in order that, during the night, he might observe carefully when the tide was lowest, and might measure all the beach or .shore that should be laid bare, and that he might afterwards observe [93] 94 Academy op Pacific Coast History. marea alta : lo que assi se hizo esta noche y por la manana del dia siguiente come dire. Ojo. Esto que aqui sigue corresponde arriha. < [Margen izquierdo] Por conclusion de este dia quiero liacer aqui una reflexa sobre las noticias que participo a Mexico el R*^° P. Fr. Silvestre Velez de escalante adquiridas en su viage que hizo el aiio passado desde el nuevo Mexico a la Provincia del Moqui. Dice este Padre que llego a Oraybe, ultimo Pueblo del Moqui, y distante del Pueblo de Zuiii que es del nuevo Mexico, Unas cincuenta leguas al Poniente, y que alii un yndio Cosnina le informo y le dixo que al Poniente de Oraybe a seys dias de mal camino estaba la tierra que habitan los Cosninas, y que a nueve dias de camino desde Oraybe estaba una sierra muy alta que eorre de nordeste a sudoeste con inclinacion al poniente y se alarga mas de cien leguas, a cuya falda septentrional corre [margen derecho] al poniente el rio grande de los Misterios, in- transitable a los cosninas y sus colindantes, y que por consiguiente no saben los cosninas que gente hay del otro lado del rio, ni aun si la hay pues nunca passan ni han visto indicios de ella. Dice mas, que de este lado a orillas de la sierra acia el poniente a nueve dias de camino desde los cosninas esta una nacion que habla la misma lengua y se llama Tomascavas, y que a catorze dias de camino de estos estan otros que llaman Chirumas los quales son guerreros ladrones e inhumanos, pues comen carne humana de los que matan en las campaiias; y que de estos chirumas han sabido [pdgina siguiente, margen izquierdo] los cosninas haver esparioles por aquel rumbo aunque distantes &c. Y concluye diciendo que esto que le informo el cosnina era lo mismo que ya le havian dicho los moquinos. Primeramente hemos de suponer que el P. Fr. Silvestre se informaria del cosnina por senas como suelen ex- plicarse los Yndios, 6 por medio de algun interprete y tal vez malo como suelen ser regularmente si no es que el Padre sepa las lenguas de por alia. Si se valio de algun interprete 6 recurio a las seiias para entender al cosnina entonces facilmente pudo padecer alguna equivocacion en el informe pues muehissimas vezes sucede que quando uno piensa que se ha explicado bien con los Yndios por essos medios encuentra despues que no lo enten- [94] Diary of Pedro Font. 95 how high the tide rose when it was full; this was done tonight 1776 and on the following morning, as I shall mention. ^ .^ As a conclusion to this day's [entry] I desire to make a com- ment here upon the information which Father Silvestre Velez de Escalante sent to Mexico, and which he obtained on his jour- ney last year from New Mexico to the province of i\Ioqui. The father says that he reached Oraybe, the last town of the Moqui, some fifty leagues west of the town of Zufii, which is in New Mexico, and that there a Cosnina Indian informed him that the land inhabited by the Cosninas was six days of difficult travel west of Oraj'-be; and that nine days' journey from Oraybe there was a very high mountain range which extends, for over a hun- dred leagues, from northeast to southwest with some inclination to the west. [He said that] on its northern slope the Rio Grande de los Misterios flows to the westward; and that, as this river is impassable to the Cosninas and their neighbors, the Cosninas do not know what people there are on the other side of it, nor even if there are any such, for they never cross over, nor have they seen indications of any. He also says that nine days west of the Cosninas, on this side near the range, there is a nation that speaks the same language and is called Tomascavas ; and that fourteen days from these people there are others called Chirumas, who are warriors, thieves, and savages, for they eat those whom they kill in their wars ; and that the Cosninas have learned from these Chirumas that there were Spaniards in that direction, though distant, etc. He concludes by saying that this informa- tion which the Cosnina Indian gave him was in accordance with what the ]\Ioquis had already said. First, then, we are to suppose that Father Silvestre would obtain his information from the Cosnina by means of signs, in the manner that the Indians are accustomed to express them- selves, or by means of an interpreter — perhaps a poor one, as they usually are — unless the father should happen to know the language of those parts. If he availed himself of an interpreter or had recourse to signs in order to understand the Cosnina, then he may easily have been mistaken in his information, for very often it happens that when one thinks he has expressed himself clearly to the Indians by this means, he discovers afterwards [95] 96 Academy of Pacific Coast History. dieron 6 que lo entendieron al reves. [Margen derecho] Esto supuesto dexando a parte las distancias, y rumbos que el Padre apunta respecto las naciones que nombra, en los quales encuentro no poca dificultad para eomponerlos atendiendo a la sierra alta que dice atravessarse de sudoeste a nordeste, en lo que encuentro mas dificultad es en el rio que llama de los misterios, no tanto por el nombre que para mi es muy nuevo, quanto por lo caudaloso que lo pinta como que es intransitable a los cosninas. Dice el Padre que este rio de los misterios corre al poniente y es regular que siendo tan caudaloso vaya a desaguar al mar y si esto fuesse assi es natural que nosotros lo huviessemos cor- [pdgina siguientfi. margen izquierdo] tado pues llegamos a la altura de 38. grados que es bastante para que viniesse a dar a las costas del mar que nosotros seguimos pues me pareee que essa altura y aun menos corresponde al curso del rio que el Padre dice, respecto al parage en donde recibio el inf orme : pero nosotros en todo el camino no hemos cortado mas rio que el rio Colorado, el qual no es intransi- table aun quando crece mucho como lo experimentamos, y aun es vadeable quando esta en su curso natural. Ni se puede decir que el rio de los misterios es el mismo rio Colorado, y que mas arriba muda el nombre, pues si este aun en la junta de los rios y mas abajo del puerto de la concepcion no es tan caudaloso que sea intransitable pues lo passan a nado los yumas assi hombres como mugeres es na- [margen derecho] tural que mas arriba sea menos caudaloso, y aunque lo sea tanto no es facil persuadirse a que los cosninas y sus colindantes scan de peor condicion que los Yumas que no se atrevan a vadear el rio por grande que sea, y mas haviendo nacido en sus orillas, pues vemos que los yndios que se crian en las orillas de algun rio grande como los Yaquis, y los yumas, y aun los de la costa del mar todos son grandes nadadores. De donde infiero que al P. Fr. Silvestre le dirian tal vez que del otro lado de la sierra havia mucha agua y como le dirian que era agua dulce sin hacer distincion de si corria 6 no el Padre se hizo juicio que era rio pues sus aguas no eran saladas y no le dixeron [pdgina siguiente, margen izquierdo] que por alii huviesse mar. [96] DiABY OF Pedro Font. 97 that they did not understand him, or that they understood the opposite of what he meant. Disregarding, on this supposition, the distances and directions that the father sets doA^-n relative to the nations which he mentions, — and I find no little difficulty in reconciling them in respect to the high range which he says ex- tends from southwest to northeast — that in which I find the greatest difficulty is the river which he calls the Rio de los Mis- terios, not so much on account of the name, which is quite new to me, as of the great size he represents it to be, so that it is impassable to the Cosninas. The father says that this Rio de los Misterios flows westward, and it is natural to suppose that being so large it empties into the sea. If this were the case, it is also natural to suppose that we ourselves would have crossed it, since we went as far as 38° — far enough for it to have reached the seacoast, which we followed, for it seems to me that this latitude, or even less, fits the course of the river the father speaks of, estimating from the latitude where he obtained his information. But we have crossed no river on all the road except the Rio Colorado, which is not impassable even when much swollen — as we found it; and it is even fordable when in its usual course. Neither can it be said that the Rio de los Misterios is the Rio Colorado, and that the name changes farther up, for if the latter, even upon the junction of the two, and below the Puerto de la Concepcion, is not so large as to be impassable, — since the Yumas, both men and Avomen, swim across it — it is natural that farther up it would be smaller ; and even if it should be as large, it is not easy to persuade one's self that the Cosninas and their neighbors would be so much beneath the Yumas that they would not dare to cross the river, however great it may be, they having been reared on its banks. For we see that Indians, like the Yaquis and the Yumas, who grow up on the banks of some large river, and even those along the seacoast, are all great swimmers. Wherefore I infer that perhaps they told Father Silvestre that on the other side of the range there was a great expanse of water, and as they may have told him that the Avater was fresh, without making distinction as to whether or not it was running water, the father formed the opinion that it was a river, because its waters were not salty, and they did not tell him tliat the sea was there. [97] 98 Academy of Pacific Coast History. En virtud de todo esto digo yo que tal vez el rio grande de los misterios que el Padre dice y le informaron sera algun charco de agua dulce muy grande que sigue el rumbo de los tulares que nosotros vimos, 6 que seran esos mismos tulares y agua que se estiende por los immensos llanos que tengo dicho la qual se inter- nara hasta el otro lado de la sierra nevada por alguna 6 algunas abras y cogera mucha extension de este a oeste assi como la tiene de norte a sur ; y siendo assi es muy f acil creer que sea intransi- table a los cosninas, pues es muy dificil, y aun quasi puedo decir impossible que se transite de un lado a otro, y por consiguiente no sabran los [mar gen derecho] cosninas si hay gente del otro lado y ni aun si la hay, como ni los del otro lado tampoco sabran si hay cosninas. De todo lo qual coneluyo diciendo que se me hace muy dificil que se pueda abrir camino recto desde el nuevo Mexico a Monterey como se ha pretendido pues a mas de la noticia que da el P. Fr. Silvestre del rio 6 charco de agua dulce que hay de por medio estan los tulares que se atraviessan a los quales ha de venir a dar el camino antes de llegar a la costa del mar y por recto que se busque a lo menos saldra a las immediaciones de la mission de S° Luis 6 mas abajo segun mi concepto salvo meliori judicio. Digo que aqui nos persuadimos que no es rio el que se llama ba rio, porque si lo fuesse es natural que tuviesse alguna creciente, y si la tuviesse no es possible que se mantuviesse esta rancheria tan pegada al agua y en tierras tan lianas, pues por poco que creciesse el rio se havia de extender e inundar todo el llano por donde venimos, y por consiguiente havia de destruir la rancheria y sus jacales. Y no se puede decir que esta rancheria estaba alii nuevamente establecida, cuyos yndios se retiraran a otra parte en creciendo el rio; porque a mas de que por las senas se conocio que no es rancheria nueva sino algo antigua, se le ban de conceder a lo menos algo mas de dos arios de antiguedad pues quando vino el S'' Cap" Fages, y reconocio esta agua desde la loma en donde se paro, despacho al sargento con unos soldados para que si- guiessen adelante el descubrimiento, y estos llegaron hasta la dieha rancheria y la hallaron en el mismo sitio que nosotros, con que a lo menos tiene dos aiios de establecida, y en dos aiios tenia tiempo [98] Diary of Pedro Font. 99 On the strength of all this, I say that perhaps the great Rio de los ]\Iisterios of which the father speaks and of which they informed him, may be some very large fresh-water lake that fol- lows the course of the tule-swamps which we saw, or that it may be those very tule-swamps and the water which, spreading over the immense plains I have mentioned, may find its way to the other side of the Sierra Nevada through one or several openings, and may extend as far from east to west as it does from north to south. If this were the case, it is easy to believe that it would be impassable to the Cosninas, for it is very difficult, I may even say impossible, to cross; consequently the Cosninas could not even know whether there are people on the other side or not, just as those on the other side might not know of the Cosninas. From all the foregoing, I conclude by saying that it seems to me that it would be very difficult to open a road direct from New Mexico to Monterey, as has been contemplated, for aside from the information that Father Silvestre gives of the river or fresh-water lake which lies between, there are the intervening tule-swamps, which the road must strike before it reaches the sea- coast, and however straight a road is sought, it will still come out in the vicinity of the mission of San Luis, or farther down, according to my notion — salvo meliori jiidicio. I say that here we were convinced that what was called a river is not such, because if it were it would naturally have some rise, and if it did it is not possible that this village could remain so close to the water on such level ground, for however little the river might rise, it would overflow and inundate all the plain over which we came, and would consequently destroy the village and its huts. Neither can it be said that this village was newly estab- lished there, and that the inhabitants would retire to some other place when the river rose, because — aside from the fact that the signs indicated that it is not a new village, but one of some age — it must be conceded to be over two years old at least, for when Captain Fages came and observed this water from the hill where he stopped, he sent a sergeant with some soldiers to follow up the discovery, and these men came as far as this village, and found it in the same position that we did. So it must have been established at least two years, and in two years the river, if river [99] 100 Academy op Pacific Coast History. Jomadas sobrado el rio para haversela llevado con sus crecientes si fuesse Leeuas rio. JQ2 Dia 4. Antes de media noche fue el theniente a reconocer el agua y la hallo tan retirada que por la medida que le tomo regu- lamos que havia descubierto unas diez y seys varas de playa la qual era aqui muy tendida. Antes de amanecer fue el criado y vio que el agua havia subido tanto que levanto el tule seco que tenia escupido en la orilla. Al salir el sol fuimos el S^ Coman- dante y yo, y vimos que ya empezaba a bajar la marea, y que eon el vientro noroeste que soplaba oy muy recio estava el agua eon alguna inquietud y blanqueando dentro las olitas como en el mar y las olas de la playa algo crecidas. Tome con un nivel el peso del agua, y con el saque que el agua desde lo que subio en marea alta, hasta lo que baxo respecto la playa que descubrio, en marea baxa, habia baxado unas tres varas : y advierto que aqui el agua estaba recogida y que a poco mas 6 menos tendria el mismo anchor que en la boca. De todo lo dicho, y con estos experi- mentos concluimos y acabamos de assegurarnos que este pielago de agua mas bien se debe llamar mar dulce que rio, pues no tiene crecientes ni corrientes como rio, y tiene como el mar las aguas elaras y azuleando, y el fluxo y refluxo, con olitas en la playa. Y si con todo se quiere decir que se puede llamar rio, supuesto que el agua es dulce, solo porque tiene algun movimiento con el fluxo y refluxo, entonces con la misma razon podremos llamar rio al mar. Aunque ya por todo lo dicho estavamos ciertos de que por aqui no havia ningun rio grande como se havia dicho, ni aun pequeiio, pues en todo el camino no encontramos mas que arroyos ; con todo el S'" Comandante se mantuvo en la resolucion que hizo ayer de seguir el giro del agua atravessar el llano y adelantar por la parte de la sierra nevada este descubrimiento por algunas jornadas : Por lo qual salimos del parage de la rancheria des- poblada a las siete y quarto de la manana, y a las cinco y medio de la tarde paramos en unas lomas del principio de la sierra que despues dire haviendo caminado unas quinze leguas largas con 15 rumbo tan variado, que fue muy contra el primer intento como ire diciendo. Caminamos un poco con rumbo al este con animo [100] Diary op Pedro Font. 101 it were, would have had ample time to carry the village away 1776 on its floods. '"]^ April 4. — Before midnight the lieutenant went to examine the water, and found it so low that, from the measure he took of it, we estimated that it had laid bare some sixteen feet of the beach, which was very wide at this place. Before dawn the servant went down and saw that the Avater had risen so much that it lifted the dry reeds that were strewn upon the shore. At sunrise the com- mander and I went, and saw that the tide was beginning to ebb, and that with the northwest wind that was blowing very strongly today, the water was rough, the little waves iruside whitening as if in the sea, and the waves on the shore were larger. I took the level of the water, and ascertained that between high and low tide it had gone down some three yards, according to the beach which it had laid bare. I note that here the water was hemmed in, and that it had the same width, more or less, as at the mouth. From all that I have said, and from these investiga- tions, we decided finally, and ended by assuring ourselves, that this expanse of water ought rather to be called a fresh-water sea than a river, since it has no floods nor currents like a river, but has, like the sea, clear blue waters, ebb-tide and flood, and waves upon the beach. But if, nevertheless, one wishes to maintain that, since the water is fresh, it should be called a river merely because it has some movement, then we might with equal reason call the sea a river because it has ebb- and flood-tides. Although we were now certain, from what I have already said, that there was no large river here as has been asserted — nor even a small one, for we found nothing but streams in all our jour- ney — nevertheless the commander remained firm in the resolu- tion which he took yesterday to follow the turn of the water, cross the plain, and prosecute this exploration for some marches in the direction of the Sierra Nevada. We therefore .set out from the uninhabited village at a quarter past seven in the morning, and at half-past five in the afternoon, halted on some hills at the beginning of the range of which I shall speak later, having trav- elled some fifteen long leagues in a direction so varied that it was entirely opposite to our original intention, as I shall proceed to narrate. We went a short distance to the east with the inten- [101] 102 Academy of Pacific Coast History. de seguir el agua 6 por su orilla 6 a una vista pero luego se nos atravessaron los tulares y atascaderos que nos hicieron mudar de rumbo, y nos apartaron del agua de modo que no la vimos mas sino de lexos y desde lo alto de la sierra. Cogimos rumbo al estsudeste y caminamos assi unas dos leguas dexando a la derecha un robledal que sigue como seys leguas por el pie de la sierra del sur ; y con inteneion de ver si los tulares nos dexavan passo libre cogimos al nordeste y caminamos de este modo como una legua mas ; pero luego los tulares nos impidieron seguir con esse rumbo : y empezamos a andar culebreando ya al sudeste y al estsudeste ya al sur ya al sur sudeste sin poder adelantar camino para la sierra nevada antes bien saliendonos para afuera. Veiamos algunas veredas de las muchas y muy trilladas que hacen los ciervos grandes por esse llano quando baxan al agua, y seguiamos por ellas; pero luego no[s] hallabamos atacados eon atolladeros que nos hacian rebolver[.] Encontramos una vez con una senda con rastro de hombre que nos parecio iva para una pequena rancheria que divisamos dentro del tular y aunque se hizo empeno en seguirla luego nos hallamos con un atascadero por donde no podian passar las bestias, y aun a pie se passaria con alguna dificultad. Assi andu vimos mas de tres leguas que se pueden regular como al sudeste y con algun trabajo metidos por los tulares que por un buen treclio estaban secos pisando tierra bofa podrida y llena de lamas secas, y con un polvo tan mordaz que se levantaba de las zenizas del tule quemado, que nos ardian fuerte- mente los ojos y apenas nos dexaba mirar[.] Con esta ocasion conocimos que el pielago de agua dulce que se estiende por essos tulares tiene su creciente y que quando crece coge mucho mas alia de la tierra que pisabamos, la qual estava llena de conchas de caracoles tortugas y lamas que cria el agua quando se estiende por aqui. Y que esta agua cresca no es dificil de creerlo, y aun es cosa natural que assi suceda, pues estando a la vista de la sierra nevada es cosa regular que de ella salgan varios rios y se pierdan [102] Diary op Pedro Font. 103 tion of following the water either along the shore or at least keep- 1776 ing it in sight, but we soon came upon the tule-swamps and ^ ^^^ marshes which obliged us to change our direction, and separated us from the water so much that we did not see it again, except at a distance, from the crest of the range. We turned east by south, and travelled so for about two leagues, leaving on the right an oak-forest which extends for some six leagues along the southern slope of the range. Then, with the intention of ascertaining whether the tule-swamps would permit us a clear passage, we struck off toward the northeast, and travelled about a league far- ther ; but the tule-swamps soon prevented us from following this course, and we began winding, now southeast and east-southeast, then south, and finally south-southeast, without being able to ad- vance toward the Sierra Nevada, but on the contrary getting farther away from it. We saw a number of the many well- beaten trails which the large deer make through that plain when they go down to the water; we followed these trails, but soon found ourselves beset by marshes which obliged us to retrace our steps. Once we found a path with the tracks of a man which seemed to be going toward a small village that we descried amidst the reeds, and although we made a determined effort to follow it we soon found ourselves in a swamp, through which the animals could not pass, and which could only be traversed on foot with considerable difficulty. So, for over three leagues, in a direc- tion which may be described as southeasterly, w^e struggled laboriously through the midst of the tule-patches, which were dry for some distance. We trod over decayed, spongy ground, covered with dried scum, with such an acrid dust arising from the ashes of burnt reeds that our eyes smarted intolerably and we could scarcely see. On this occasion we perceived that the body of fresh water which extends through these tule-swamps has its floods, and that when it overflows it covers the ground we were walking upon, which was full of the shells of snails and turtles, and the scum which collects on the water when it extends this far. It is not hard to believe that this water might overflow ; indeed it is natural to suppose that it would, as it is within sight of the Sierra Nevada; for it may be presumed that a number of rivers issue from the mountains and terminate and are lost in those [103] 104 Academy op Pacific Coast History. y acaben en esos llanos, y con esto cresca este mar dulce (que por dulce se le puede conceder esta excepcion de regla o si no se podra llamar laguna) 6 e ninvierno con las lluvias y crecientes de los rios, 6 en verano derritiendose las nieves. Ya conoeiamos que era materia impossible atravessar el llano y arrimarnos a la sierra nevada ; pero con todo quiso el S"" Comandante proseguir un poco mas en el empeiio por si mas abajo encontrabamos alguna tierra mas alta que nos facilitasse el passo; y assi caminamos unas tres leguas mas con el rumbo un poco al sur, y lo mas quasi al este, y al estsudeste. Ya eran corao las dos de la tarde y el cabo que iva por delante se paro y preguntole el S^ Comandante: Que le parece a Vsted? hay esperanza de que podamos llegar a la Sierra ? Respondio el Cabo : Sefior, no se : lo que yo puedo decir es que en una ocasion sali por la punta de aquella sierra (es la que ayer desde la loma mirando para el sur vimos corer de sudeste a noroeste) y gaste dia y medio en descabezar un tular y vi que todavia seguia adelante y por el otro lado tambien, pero no vi mas porque desde alii me rebolvi. Con esto dixe yo : Por la cuenta ya esta visto que estos tulares son los mismos que hay cerca la mission de San Luis y que eontinuan hasta alia y para descabezarlos es preciso bajar hasta las imediaciones de aquella mission, lo qual es necessario para passar a la sierra nevada cuyo reconocimiento mejor se puede hacer empezando el viaje desde dicha mission de Sn Luis. Entonces el S'" Comandante viendo la dificultad tan grande que se ofrecia para acercarnos a la sierra nevada como pretendia determine revolvernos para monterey, por lo que mudando de rumbo nos encaminamos para la sierra; y haviendo caminado como una legua al sur llegamos a unas lomas, que por minadas con tuzeros las llamamos las lomas de las tuzas. otras lomas que son principio de la sierra que despues atravessa- Seguimos por ellas como dos leguas al sudoeste, y entramos en mos, y dire maiiana, y haviendo caminado por ellas unas dos leguas con rumbo sursudoeste paramos en un altito imediato a una Canada en donde se encontro un poco de agua. [104] Diary of Pedro Font. 105 plains, and that thus the fresh-water sea (for so this exception 1776 to the rule may be characterized, unless it is to be designated a ^ ^^j^ lake) would increase in winter with the rains and floods of the rivers, and in summer by the melting of the snows. We now knew that it was impossible to cross the plain and approach the Sierra Nevada, but the commander desired nevertheless to con- tinue some distance farther, in the determination to see whether a little farther down we might not find higher ground which would make our progress easier. So we travelled some three leagues farther in a southerly direction, and the remainder almost due east, and east-southeast. It was now about two o'clock in the afternoon and the corporal, who was going along in advance, stopped, and the commander asked him : ' ' How does it look to you ? Is there hope of our being able to get to the range ? " The corporal replied : "I do not know, sir ; what I can say is that on one occasion I set out along the point of that range, (it is the one running from southeast to northwest which we saw yester- day, looking south from the hill), and spent a day and a half going around a tule-swamp, and saw that it still went on here and [extended] in the other direction also; but I saw nothing more, for there I turned back." Upon this I said: "According to this reckoning, these tule-swamps are the same as those near the mis- sion of San Luis, to which place they extend, and to get around them, which must be done in order to get to the Sierra Nevada, it will be necessary to go down to the vicinity of that mission, from which place the reconnoissance of the range can be more easily begun." Then the commander, seeing the great difficulty which prevented our approaching the Sierra Nevada as he proposed, decided that we should return toward Monterey; so, changing our route, we started toward the range. Having travelled about one league southward, we came to some hills which we called the Lomas de las Tuzas, because they were burrowed by ground squirrels. We continued along these hills for about two leagues southwestward, and entered some other hills which are the be- ginning of the range we afterward crossed, as I will narrate to- morrow ; and having gone along them some two leagues to the south-southeast, we halted on a little- eminence close to a canyon in which a little water was found. [105] 106 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas Dia 5. Salimos de las lomas del principio de la sierra a las Leguas 103 seys y tres quartos de la manana, y a las quatro y quarto de la tarde paramos en la Canada de S"^ Vicente poco antes de acabarse, haviendo caminado unas eatorze leguas de mal camino muy 14 quebrado y con el rumbo al sur aunque variado como dire, Caminamos unas tres leguas al sudeste en busca de una caiiada que divisamos la qual se estrecho tanto que nos impidio seguir assi por lo qual fue precisso subir a lo alto de la sierra, y camina- mos como una legua al norte al este al sur y a todos rumbos 6 sin rumbo hasta encumbrar. Aqui nos detuvimos un poco para buscar salida, y desde este alto que lo era mucho seiialado en el mapa con la letra d. vimos claramente los llanos agua y tulares por donde ayer venimos y que seguian para aba jo como para la mission de San Luis en una abra muy grande y liana que f orman la sierra que empezamos a atravessar por este lado y por el otro la sierra nevada que se miraba muy lexos y que tambien seguia para aba jo como para la mission de S° Gabriel; conque me con- firme en el juicio que ya me havia hecho y apunte ayer, y antes de ayer. Baxamos de lo alto de la sierra, y caminamos como dos leguas al sur y con bastantes guinadas al sudeste por lo quebrado de las lomas y cuestas, y llegamos a una Canada. Seguimos por ella como dos leguas con rumbo al sursudeste y al llegar a lo alto del puerto que hacia nos vimos con mucha serrania por delante muy quebrada, y todo lo andado y lo que se veia por todos lados muy poblado de robles pinos y bosque. Seguimos como una legua al sur y con muchas bueltas cuesta abajo, y luego fue abriendo mas la tierra de modo que encontramos con una caiiada algo ancha y bien larga, y haviendo caminado por ella unas quatro cinco leguas, con rumbo al sur y sursudoeste poco antes de acabarse paramos en un arroyo de muy poco agua. En el prin- cipio de esta caiiada, que los soldados le llamaron la Canada de San vicente < seiialado en el mapa con la letra e>, vimos unas sierras 6 lomas que a todos nos llevaron la atencion por su con- textura, pues estando las demas muy Uenas de bosque y arboles, [106] Diary of Pedro Font. 107 April 5. — At a quarter to seven in the morning we set out 1776 from the hills at the beginning of the range, and halted, at a "T^ quarter past four in the afternoon, near the end of the Canada de San Vicente, having travelled some fourteen leagues of quite rugged road in a varied southerly direction, which I shall de- scribe. We travelled some three leagues to the southeast, heading for a canyon that we saw, which became so narrow that we could proceed no farther along it ; we were therefore obliged to ascend to the crest of the great range, travelling about one league, — to the north, to the east, to the south, and in any and every direc- tion — until we arrived at the crest. Here we stopped a while to look for a way out, and from this height, which was great, (it is marked on the map with the letter d), we clearly saw the plains, the water, and the tule-swamps which we came through yesterday, and which extended as if down toward the mission of San Luis through a great level valley, enclosed on this side by the range which we were beginning to cross, and on the other side by the Sierra Nevada, which, seen far in the distance, also extended southward as though toward the mission of San Gabriel. So I was confirmed in the opinion I had already formed, and set down yesterday and the day before. We went down from the crest of the range and travelled about two leagues southward, with numerous deflections toward the southeast because of the brokenness of the hills and slopes, till we came to a little canyon. This we followed about two leagues to the south-southeast, when, upon arriving at the top of the pass which it formed, we saw a very great area of rugged mountain region in front of as, the road over which we had come, and all the territory visible about us, densely covered with oaks, pines, and other trees. AVe went on about a league southward with many downward turns ; soon the land opened up more, so that we came upon a long and fairly wide canyon. Having travelled along it four leagues south and south-southwest, we halted a short distance before reaching the end of it at a very small stream of water. At the beginning of this canyon, which the soldiers called the Canada de San Vicente, (marked on the map with the letter e), we saw some mountains or hills which attracted everyone's attention on account of their formation; for, though the other hills were very well forested, [107] 108 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas estas 110 tienen arboles y solo tienen im bosque chaparro y bien Leguas claro, con lo qual se le descubren en las cuchillas y a trechos unas cintas y pedazos de guija muy blanca, y dicha serrania por cuyo pie passa un arroyo, sin otros varios pequenos que hay en la Canada, es de color rojo : por lo qual dixeron todos que tenia grandes pintas de mineral y a mi me parecio muy seme j ante a las sierras de las minas de Guanajuato. Su situacion esta en el centro de esta serrania que veniamos atravessando que es muy quebrada. 1Q4 Dia 6. Salimos de la cafiada de San Vicente a las seys y tres quartos de la maiiana y a las quatro de la tarde paramos en un altito imediato al arroyo del coyote que desde su nacimiento seguimos por todo el camino, haviendo caminado unas diez leguas lo de peor camino y mas quebrado que ayer, con rumbo principal al sur aunque con alguna variacion. Luego que salimos nos hallamos con sierra quebrada por todas partes y con una Canada angosta y muy profunda por delante : baxamos por ella, y luego encontramos un poco de agua que es principio del arroyo del coyote, y la seguimos con rumbo como tres leguas al sursudeste, unas dos al sursudoeste, otras dos al sursudeste culebreando para subir unas lomas, y baxar otra vez a la cailada, y unas tres final- mente al al sur y al sursudeste subiendo y baxando por la caHada y sus lomas muy quebradas. 105 Dia 7. Salimos del Altito a las siete y quarto de la manana, y a las cinco y quarto de la tarde paramos en la orilla del rio de monterey, haviendo caminado unas quinze leguas, con rumbo las 15 dos primeras al sur, baxando por unas lomas por las quales acabamos de salir de la sierra. Luego entramos en el valle de San Bernardino el qual atravessamos con rumbo al sursudoeste y sursudeste, y haviendo caminado unas tres leguas por el, al entrar en unas lomas baxas cerca el rio del paxaro cortamos nuestro camino de la ida por el qual seguimos con los rumbos eorrespon- dientes a los que llevamos al ir al puerto de S° Francisco. 106 Dia 8. Salimos del rio de Monterey a las siete y quarto de la manana, y a las quatro de la tarde Uegamos a la mission de [108] Diary of Pedro Font. 109 these have no trees, but only a very sparse scrub-brush, so that 1775 on the ridge and at intervals there are to be seen strips and ' '""' patches of very white, coarse gravel. This range — at the foot of it flows a little stream, besides numerous other small ones which are in the canyon — is colored red. For this reason every- one said that it had fine indications of minerals, and to me it appeared quite like the mining regions of Guanajuato. It is situated in the center of the very broken mountain region through which we were passing. April 6. — "We set out from the Caiiada de San Vicente at a quarter to seven in the morning, and, at four in the afternoon, halted on a small eminence near the Arroyo del Coyote, which we followed from its source the entire way, having travelled some ten leagues of worse and more rugged road than yesterday, prin- cipally to the south, though with some variation. As soon as we set out we encountered rugged mountains everywhere, and in front of us a very narrow, deep canyon. We went down through it, soon coming upon a little water which is the beginning of the Arroyo del Coyote. This we followed about three leagues south-southeast, some two south-southwest, two more to the south- southeast, winding about to ascend some hills and descend again to the canyon, and, finally, some three leagues to the south and south-southeast, ascending and descending through the canyon and its very rugged hillsides. April 7. — We set out from the small eminence at a quarter past seven in the morning, and, at a quarter past five in the afternoon, halted on the bank of the Rio de j\Ionterey, having travelled about fifteen leagues, the first two having been toward the south along some hills, by which we finally descended from the range. Then we entered the valley of San Bernardino, through which we passed to the south-southwest and south- southeast. Having travelled about three leagues through it, upon entering some low hills near the Rio del Pajaro, we struck the course of our outward journey, and followed it in directions cor- responding to those we had taken in going to the port of San Francisco. April 8. — We set out from the Rio de JNIonterey at a quar- ter past seven in the morning, and arrived at four in the after- [109] 110 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas gn Carlos del Carmelo haviendo caminado cineo leguas con los Leguas rumbos de la ida : quatro hasta el presidio de Monterey en donde 5 nos detuvimos a comer y una a la mission. Dia 9. Nos estuvimos en la mission descansando. Dia 10. Este dia huvo una gran varazon de sardina en la playa. Dia 11. Proseguimos en la mission sin novedad. Dia 12, Se determino irnos manana para Monterey y de alii rebolvernos para la sonora. 107 Dia 13. Salimos de la mission de 8"^ Carlos del carmelo a las nueve de la manana, y a las diez llegamos al presidio de Mon- terey haviendo caminado una legua. Aqui nos detuvimos para- 1 que quedassen ordenadas las cosas de la expedicion, eneargandose de todo el S"" Theniente por ausencia del S"^ Capitan Ribera que estaba en S'^ Diego. Bolvi a suplicar que a lo menos se me permitiesse saber el numero de gente que en la expedicion havia venido y se quedaba en Monterey para la nueva poblaeion y fuerte del puerto de S'^ Francisco, pues aunque no era mas que una curiosidad mia y que verdaderamente no era necessario que yo lo supiesse deseaba saberlo siquiera por haver venido con todos ; y se me concedio que viesse la lista que no estaba completa por faltarle unos pocos con los presos que en la mission de S*^ Gabriel se quedaron, y por ella supe que quedaban en Monterey ciento noventa y tres almas. 108 Dia 14. Vinieron de la mission de S° Carlos del carmelo el R. P. Presidente con otros Padres, a despedirse de nosotros y se bolvieron, y el P. Ministro de la Mission de S° Antonio se quedo en Monterey para passar en nuestra compania a aquella mission. Salimos del Presidio de IMonterey a las dos de la tarde y a las seys paramos a orillas del rio de Monterey en el parage llamado Buenavista, haviendo caminado unas seys leguas. Los rumbos en g esta buelta son los correspondientes a la ida, pues nos bolvimos por el mismo camino. [110] Diary of Pedro Font. Ill noon at the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo, having travelled five leagues in the same directions as upon our outward journey — four [of them] to the presidio of Monterey, where we stopped to eat, and one to the mission. April 9. — We stayed at the mission resting. April 10. — Today there was a great school of sardines stranded on the beach. April 11. — We continued at the mission without any occur- rence of note. April 12. — It was decided to set out for Monterey in the morning, and from there to return in the direction of Sonora. Commander Anza sent mail to Captain Rivera, notifying him of his decision to return. April 13. — We set out from the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo at nine in the morning, and, at ten, arrived at the pre- sidio of Monterey, having travelled one league. Here we stayed in order to arrange the affairs of the expedition, the lieutenant taking charge of everything on account of the absence of Captain Rivera, who was in San Diego. I requested that I might at least be permitted to know the number of people who had come on the expedition and had remained in Monterey for the new settle- ment and fort of the port of San Francisco ; for, although I was merely curious, and it was not really necessary for me to know, still I wanted to know just the same, because I had come with them all. So I was permitted to see the list, which was not com- plete, because there were a few missing, including the prisoners who had been left at the mission of San Gabriel ; from this list I learned that one hundred and ninety-three souls had remained at Monterey. April 14. — The reverend father-president of the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo came, with other priests, to take leave of us, and returned. The minister of the mission of San Antonio remained at ]\Ionterey in order to go to that mi.ssion in our com- pany. We set out from the presidio of ^Monterey at two in the afternoon, and, at six, halted on the banks of the Rio de Mon- terey, at the place called Buenavista, having travelled about six leagues. The directions of the return correspond to those of the outward journey, since we went back by the same road. [Ill] 112 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas Bia 15. Salimos del parage de Buenavista a las seys y quarto Leguas 109 de la mafiana, y a las eineo y tres quartos de la tarde paramos en el parage que llaman la Canada de San Bernabe, haviendo caminado unas diez y ocho leguas cortas. Como a dos leguas de is haver salido del parage, nos eneontramos con los soldados que el S'" Comandante despacho de correo para el S"^ Capitan Ribera el dia 12. los quales venian de buelta y dixeron que havian hallado a dicho S'' Capitan Ribera en el camino y que ya venia cerca. Nos persuadimos que su venida era para verse con el S' capitan Ansa antes que se saliesse para afuera y para tratar con el el assumpto de la expedicion y con esto consentimos en que seria tal vez preciso bolvernos para IMonterey 6 a lo menos detener- nos alii, pero presto vimos que no nos causo ninguna detencion su venida. Pues a poco andar nos eneontramos con el S"^ Capitan Ribera, y haviendose saludado los dos S*"^^ Capitanes como de camino, sin detenerse en hablar cosa alguna siguio luego el S^ capitan Ribera su camino para monterey y nosotros proseguimos el nuestro para la sonora. 110 Dia 16. Salimos de la Canada de San Bernabe a las seys y tres quartos de la maiiana y a las diez y quarto llegamos a la mission de S"^ Antonio haviendo caminado unas cinco leguas. 5 111 Dia 17. Salimos de la mission de S° Antonio a las dos de la tarde, y a las sej^s y quarto paramos en la misma caiiada de los robles a orillas del rio despues de haverlo passado una vez haviendo caminado unas siete leguas. 7 112 Dia 18. Salimos de Orillas del rio a las seys de la maiiana, y a las cinco y quarto de la tarde paramos en un pequeno aguaje, como tres leguas despues de haver passado el rio de monterey, haviendo caminado unas diez y seys leguas. 16 113 Dia 19. Salimos del pequeiio aguage a las seys y quarto de la maiiana, y a las diez y media llegamos a la mission de San Luis Obispo haviendo caminado unas siete leguas. 7 Dia 20. Nos detuvimos en esta mission. Dia 21. Por la tarde vinieron unos soldados diciendo como [112] Diary of Pedro Font. 113 April 15. — ^We set out from Buenavista at a quarter past six in the morning, and, at a quarter to six in the afternoon, halted at a place called La Caiiada de San Bernabe, having travelled about eighteen short leagues. When we were about two leagues from our starting-point, we met the soldiers whom the commander had sent with letters for Captain Rivera on the 12th. They were coming back, and said that they had met Captain Rivera on the road, and that he was now approaching. We felt sure that his coming was for the purpose of seeing Captain Anza before the latter should go away, in order to consider with him matters con- cerning the expedition; so at this moment we presumed that it might perhaps be necessary for us to return to Monterey, or at least wait where we were. But we soon saw that his coming was no occasion of delay to us, for on going a little distance we met Captain Rivera, and, the two captains having given each other a passing salute without stopping to say a word. Captain Rivera at once resumed his journey to Monterey, and we ours to Sonora. April 16. — We set out from the Caiiada de San Bernabe at a quarter before seven in the morning, and, at a quarter past ten, arrived at the mission of San Antonio, having travelled about five leagues. April 17. — We set out from the mission of San Antonio at two o'clock in the afternoon, and, at a quarter past six, halted in the same glade of oak-trees [as on the outward journey], on the banks of the river, after crossing it once, and having travelled some seven leagues. April 18. — We set out from the banks of the river at six in the morning, and, at a quarter past five in the afternoon, halted at a small watering-place about three leagues beyond the place where we crossed the Rio de ]\Ionterey, having travelled about sixteen leagues. April 19. — We set out from the small watering-place at a quarter-past six in the morning, and, at half-past ten, arrived at the mission of San Luis Obispo, having travelled about seven leagues. April 20. — We remained at this mission. April 21. — In the afternoon some soldiers arrived, saying that Captain Rivera was coming from jMonterey, and that he had [113] 114 Academy op Pacific Coast History. jornadas el S^ Capital! ribera venia de Monterey y que se havia quedado Leguas en el puertezuelo distante de la mission algo mas de una legua. Dia 22. Poco despues de medio dia llego a la mission el S'^ Capitan Ribera, pero se detuvo muy poco : y sin verse con el S'^ Capitan Anza en aquella hora se fue para San Gabriel. 11^ Dia 23. Salimos de la mission de S'^ Luis obispo a las siete de la manana, y a las seys y media de la tarde paramos en la laguna graciosa, haviendo caminado unas diez y siete leguas. 17 115 Dia 24. Salimos de la laguna graciosa a las seys y media de la manana, y a las quatro y tres quartos de la tarde paramos en un arroyo pequeno en la canal a orillas del mar cerca la rancheria del coxo haviendo caminado unas diez y seys leguas. 16 iiQ Dia 25. Salimos de cerca la rancheria del coxo a a las seys de la manana, y a las cinco y media de la tarde paramos muy cerca la rancheria de Mescaltitan antes de llegar a ella haviendo caminado unas diez y ocho leguas. 18 jjy Dia 26. Salimos de cerca la rancheria de Mescaltitan a las seys y quarto de la mafiana, y a las cinco de la tarde paramos en el rio de la Assumpta haviendo caminado unas diez y siete leguas. 17 Oy despues de parar logramos ver un poco las islas de la canal que hasta ahora ni a la ida ni a la buelta las haviamos podido ver claramente sino muy en confuso y poco por causa de las neblinas que son en este mar muy continuas. 118 Dia 27. Salimos del rio de la Assumpta a las seys y quarto de la manana, y a las cinco y media de la tarde paramos en el parage de la agua escondida, haviendo caminado unas diez y ocho is leguas. Oy salimos de la canal al principio de la Jornada. 119 Dia 28. Salimos del agua escondida a las siete de la manana, y a las cinco de la tarde paramos en el rio de Porciuneula, ha- viendo caminado unas catorze leguas. 14 120 Dia 29. Salimos del rio de Porciuneula a las seys y quarto de la manana, y a las ocho llegamos a la mission de San Gabriel, haviendo caminado dos leguas. En esta mission estava el S'^ 2 Comandante ribera, pero ni salio a saludarnos quando llegamos, [114] April Diary of Pedro Font. 115 stopped in the little pass something over a league from the 1776 mission. April 22. — Shortly after midday Captain Rivera arrived at the mission, but he only stayed a very little while, and went away to San Gabriel the same hour without seeing Captain Anza. April 23. — We set out from the mission of San Luis Obispo at seven in the morning, and, at half-past six in the afternoon, halted at La Laguna Graeiosa, having travelled about seventeen leagues. April 24. — We set out from La Laguna Graeiosa at half- past six in the morning, and, at a quarter of five in the afternoon, halted at a small stream on the shore of the Canal [de Santa Barbara] near the Rancheria del Co jo, having travelled some sixteen leagues. April 25. — We set out from the vicinity of the Rancheria del Co jo at six in the morning, and, at half -past five in the after- noon, halted quite near the Rancheria de Mescaltitan just before reaching it, having marched about eighteen leagues. April 26. — We set out from near the Rancheria de Mescal- titan at a quarter-past six in the morning, and, at five o'clock in the afternoon, halted at the Rio de la Asumpta, having travelled some seventeen leagues. Today, after halting, we could discern the islands in the channel — until now, neither in coming nor re- turning had we been able to see them clearly for they were indistinct on account of the fogs which are almost continuous on this sea. April 27. — We set out from the Rio de la Asumpta at a quarter-past six in the morning, and, at half-past five in the after- noon, halted at La Laguna Escondida, having travelled some eighteen leagues. Today we left the channel at the beginning of the march. April 28. — We set out from La Agua Escondida at six in the morning, and halted at the Rio de Porciuncula at five in the afternoon, having travelled about fourteen leagues. April 29. — We set out from the Rio de Porciuncula at a quar- ter-past six in the morning, and. at eight, arrived at the mission of San Gabriel, having travelled two leagues. Commander Riv- era was at this mission, but he did not come out to greet us when [115] 116 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jomadas j^j gg ^^q ^qj^ gj gr Comandante Anza en los dias que aqui nos ^eguas detuvimos. Dia 30. Nos detuvimos en esta mission y se hablaron los dos S"^ Comandantes por escrito tratando sus negocios. Dia 1. de Mayo. Siguieron los dos S^®^ Comandantes hablan- dose por escrito. 121 Dia 2. Salimos de la mission de S'^ Gabriel a las quatro de la tarde y a las einco y media llegamos al Arroyo de S° Gabriel, haviendo caminado dos leguas. 2 122 Dia 3. Salimos del arroyo de San Gabriel a las seys y media de la manana y a las cinco y tres quartos de la tarde paramos en un llano, eomo a una legua antes de llegar al rio de Santa Ana, haviendo caminado diez leguas. 11 123 Dia 4. Salimos del llano a las siete de la manana y a las seys . y quarto de la tarde paramos en un puertezuelo que sale para el valle de San Joseph haviendo caminado nueve leguas, 9 124 Dia 5. Salimos del portezuelo a las seys de la manana, y a las siete de la tarde paramos en la Canada de San Patricio, cerca del nacimiento de su arroyo, y poco antes del parage en donde paramos a la ida, haviendo caminado treze leguas. 13 125 Dia 6. Salimos de la Canada de San Patricio a a las seys y tres quartos de la manana, y a las quatro de la tarde paramos al Pie del sauce del arroyo de Santa Catharina, haviendo caminado treze leguas. 13 126 Dia 7. Salimos del Pie del sauce a las cinco de la manana, y a las siete y quarto de la tarde llegamos al parage de San Sebastian haviendo caminado catorze leguas. 14 127 Dia 8. Se determine atravessar los llanos y medanos que se seguian lo mas recto que se pudiesse y ir a salir al pozo salobre del carrizal sin baxar a los pozos de santa rosa por ahorrar algo. Por lo qual salimos de San Sebastian a medio dia y a las diez y media de la noche paramos en medio del llano seco sin zacate ni agua, haviendo caminado catorze leguas, con el rumbo las tres 14 primeras quasi al. al este, y las onze restantes al estsudeste y algo quasi al sudeste. [116] Diary of Pedro Font, 117 we arrived, nor did he have any interview with Commander Anza during the time we stayed here. April 30. — We remained at this mission, and the two com- manders communicated with each other in writing concerning their affairs. May 1. — The two commanders continued their correspond- May ence. May 2. — We set out from the mission of San Gabriel at four in the afternoon, and arrived at the Arroyo de San Gabriel at five, having travelled two leagues. May 3. — ^We set out from the Arroyo de San Gabriel at half- past six in the morning, and, at a quarter to six in the afternoon, halted in a plain about a league on this side of the Rio de Santa Ana, having travelled ten leagues. j\Iay 4. — We set out from the plain at seven in the morning, and, at a quarter past six in the afternoon, halted in a small pass which leads into the valley of San Joseph, having travelled nine leagues. ]\Iay 5. — We set out from the pass at six in the morning, and, having travelled thirteen leagues, halted, at seven in the after- noon, in the Canada de San Patricio near the source of its stream, a little short of the place where we halted on our outward journey. May 6. — We set out from the Canada de San Patricio at a quarter to seven in the morning, and, at four in the afternoon, halted at the Pie del Sauce, on the Arroyo de Santa Catarina, having travelled thirteen leagues. May 7. — We set out from the Pie del Sauce at five in the morning, and arrived at San Sebastian at a quarter-past seven in the afternoon, having travelled fourteen leagues. May 8. — It was decided to go as directly as possible across the plains and sand-dunes which we were following, and come out at the Pozo Salobre del Carrizal without going down to the Pozos de Santa Rosa, in order to save some distance. We therefore set out from San Sebastian at noon, and, at half-past ten at night, halted in the middle of the dry plain without grass or water, having travelled fourteen leagues, the first three of them almost due east, and the remaining eleven to the east-southeast and somewhat to the southeast. [117] 130 118 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas Dia 9. Salimos del llano seco a las quatro y media de la Leguas 128 maiiana y a las dieze y tres quartos de la noche llegamos a la Laguna de S*^ Olalla haviendo eaminado veinte leguas con el 20 rumbo una legua al estsudeste, diez al sudeste eon algo al sur sudeste y algunas guinadas al sur y al este, y ultimamente eor- tando ya nuestro camino de la ida dos al estsudeste que son treze leguas hasta el pozo salobre del carrizal, al qual llegamos a a la una de la tarde, y por hallar el agua colorada y peor que a la ida y sin carrizo se determine passar adelante hasta dicha laguna. 129 Dia 10. Salimos de la laguna de S*^ Olalla a las tres y tres quartos de la tarde, y a las siete y quarto paramos en las ran- eherias del Cojat haviendo eaminado unas einco leguas. 5 Dia 11. Salimos de las Raneherias del Cojat a las quatro y tres quartos de la maiiana, y a las onze llegamos al puerto de la Concepcion en el rio Colorado, haviendo eaminado ocho leguas. 8 Este puerto de la concepcion situado un poco mas abajo de la junta de los rios gila y Colorado es un parage de unos cerritos de mediana elevacion que forman un puerto pequeno por donde el rio Colorado (que va tan estendido por essos llanos como que en creeiendo es de leguas su extension) passa muy recogido, y en saliendo de el buelve a estenderse, por lo qual es este sitio de una vista muy alegre, y el mejor parage que he visto en este rio para poblacion porque esta imediato al rio y libre de sus inundaciones por mucho que cresca, aunque de tan eorta extension que en la mesita que forma algo desigual no caben mas que la Yglesia y Unas pocas casas. Aqui encontramos al P. Fr. Thomas Eixarch que se vino a vivir en este parage con el Capitan Palma, por ser mejor que aquel en donde lo dexamos a la ida, y dista de este puerto una legua rio arriba y tambien porque alii no se podia mantener en creeiendo el rio. Pensabamos hallar en este parage al P. Fr. Francisco Garces, pero no estaba aqui, ni el P. Fr. Thomas su compailero tuvo mas noticia de el desde que se fue para los Jalchedunes rio arriba. La ultima noticia que tuvimos [118] Diary op Pedro Font. 119 May 9. — ^We set out from the dry plain at half-past four in 1775 the morning, and arrived at the Laguna de Santa Olalla at a ^'~^ quarter to eleven at night, having travelled twenty leagues : one of them to the east-southeast, ten to the southeast and somewhat to the south-southeast with some deflections to the south and east; and, finally, two to the east-southeast, in which we crossed the line of our outward journey, which makes thirteen leagues to the Pozo Salobre del Carrizal, where we arrived at one in the afternoon. As we found the water here discolored and v^orse than when we came, and as there was no grass, we decided to go on to the Laguna de Santa Olalla. JNIay 10. — We set out from the Laguna de Santa Olalla at a quarter to four in the afternoon, and, at a quarter-past seven, halted in the Rancherias del Cojat, having travelled some five leagues. May 11. — We set out from the Rancherias del Cojat at a quarter to five in the morning, and, at eleven o'clock, arrived at the Puerto de la Concepcion on the Rio Colorado, having travelled eight leagues. This Puerto de la Concepcion, situated a little below the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, is a place in which there are some hills of moderate height that form a small pass where the Rio Colorado (which expands so widely in its flow through the plains that when it is in flood it is leagues across) passes through a very narrow channel, upon leaving which it again spreads out. For this reason the site has a very pleasant outlook, and is the best place that I have seen on this river for a settlement, for it is close to the river and yet free from its inundations, however much it may rise, though the space is so restricted that there is onty room for the church and a few houses on the somewhat rugged little table-land which forms it. Here we met Father Tomas Eixarch, who had come to live at this place with Captain Palma, because it was better than the one where we had left him on the outward journey, about a league up the river from this pass, and, further, because it was impossible to remain there when the river was high. We were expecting to find Father Francisco Garces at this place, but he was not there, nor did his companion. Father Tomas, have any news of him since he went up the river to the Jalchedunes. The [119] 120 Academy of Pacific Coast History. del P. Garces fue el dia 15, de Abril por carta que el mismo Padre escribio al S'" Comandante Anza desde la mission de S'^ Gabriel en donde estuvo por semana santa a principios de Abril, a la qual salio eon el motivo de que haviendo passado mas arriba de los Jalehedunes, y encontrado con la nacion de los Jama j a estos lo reeibieron de paz, y se ofrecieron acompanarlo a otra nacion, pero que por estar entre medio una nacion enemiga suya era menester dar un gran rodeo para passar a la otra dicha : y tal fue el rodeo que fue a salir a la mission de S"^ Gabriel acompanado de dos Yndios Gentiles de la nacion Jamaja. En la carta decia que se bolvia a la nacion Jamaja porque le era preciso, y que si desde alii conocia que podia hallar algo de bueno passaria adelante pero si no que se bolveria al rio Colorado en donde nos aguardaria para regressarnos juntos. Llegamos a la INIission de S*^ Gabriel y alii nos dixeron los Padres que quando el P. Garces se fue hablando de su viage dixo que si encontraba yndios que lo quisiessen acom- panar, y no concebia muclia dificultad en su proyecto, su animo era internarse y descubrir camino hasta ir a salir al nuevo mexico. Llegamos al Puerto de la Concepcion y aqui adquirimos una noticia algo confusa de que el P. Garces estaba en los Jalehe- dunes; por lo qual el S'^ Comandante envio luego alia un yndio interprete con carta en que le avisaba nuestra venida y que dentro de tres dias proseguiamos nuestro viage, que era tiempo bastante para que el Padre viniesse si estaba alii : pero en los tres dias ni vino el P. Garces ni tampoco el mensagero, ni bemos podido adquirir de el mas noticia en el termino de tres meses que van corriendo. De donde infiero 6 bien que el P. Garces ha encontrado camino y facilidad para ir a salir al nuevo mexico como deseaba 6 bien que ha tenido algun gran atrasso en sus correrias apostolicas como que andaba ya algo enfermo si acaso no se ha muerto 6 los yndios no lo han matado. Dia 12. Se despacho al P. Garces el correo que ayer dixe ; y se empezaron a disponer las cosas para passar el rio que venia ya muy crecido pero con mucha serenidad en su curso. En los dias que aqui estuvimos observe que el rio crecia cada dia tres o [120] Diary of Pedro Font. 121 latest news we had of Father Garces was on the 15th of April, 1775 by a letter which the father himself wrote to the commander from '-^"^ — ' the mission of San Gabriel, where he was during Holy Week, in the early part of April. He had gone thither because, having been up beyond the Jalchedunes, he had found the nation of the Jama j a, who received him peaceably and offered to accompany him to another nation; but inasmuch as a nation unfriendly to them was between, it was necessary to go a long way around in order to get to this other nation. Such was the circuit he pro- posed to make from the mission of San Gabriel, accompanied by two Indians of the Jamaja nation. He said in his letter that he was returning to the Jamaja nation because it was his duty, and that if he there perceived that he could do any good by going on he would do so, but if not he would return to the Rio Colo- rado, where he would wait for us, that we might go back together. We arrived at the mission of San Gabriel, and there the fathers told us that when Father Garces went away, he said in speaking of his journey that if he found Indians who would accompany him — and he did not conceive of any great difficulty in his pro- ject — his intention was to penetrate into the interior and discover a way of getting into New Mexico. We arrived at the Puerto de la Concepcion, and here received a confused report that Father Garces was among the Jalchedunes. So the commander at once sent an Indian interpreter thither with a letter, notifying him that we had arrived and were to resume our journey in three days, which would give plenty of time for the father to come if he was there. But neither Father Garces nor the messenger came in the three days, nor have we been able to get any further news of him in the interval of these ensuing three months. Whence I infer either that Father Garces has found a way and means for getting to New Mexico as he desired, or that he has had some great reverse in his apostolic visitations; indeed, as he was ailing, he may have died, or the Indians may have killed him. May 12. — The letter was sent to Father Garces, as I said yes- terday, and we began to get ready to cross the river, which was now much swollen but flowed quietly in its course. During the time that we were here, I observed that the river rose three or [121] 122 Academy op Pacific Coast History. quatro dedos, pero dissimuladamente como que su creciente proviene de las nieves que se derriten, y que traia bastante palizada, y sus aguas muy turbias. El Capitan Palma dixo que queria venir con nosotros para passar a jMexico a saludar al S'" Virrey, y deeirle que el y sus Yumas desseaban mucho y estarian muy contentos de que viniessen a sus tierras los espanoles y Padres para vivir juntos. Propusole el S'^ Comandante lo dila- tado del camino, y las detenciones que se ofrecerian, con las quales no podria bolver a su tierra en mucho tiempo. Y respondio Palma preguntando quantos anos podria tardar en bolver. Dixole el S"" Comandante que un alio quando mas. Entonces Palma dixo que estaba bueno: y perseverando en su pretension quedo admitido del S'" Comandante para llevarlo a Mexico en su compania pero que no havia de ir solo sino [con algunos] que voluntariamente lo quisiesen acompaiiar y entre muclios que se ofrecieron eligio palma dos compaiieros a los quales se agrego un cajuenehe joven, [y los tres] con dicho capitan Palma vinieron eon nosotros hasta el Presidio Dia 13. Se empezaron a passar trastes al otro lado del rio con una balsa grande que hicieron y por la maiiana se passo una balsada y otra por la tarde con alguna gente: pero quedo la balsa tan maltratada que fue menester hacerla de nuevo. Hize [buenas] diligencias para medir con un cabo [lo] anclio del rio en la angostura que [forma] el puerto pero no lo pude lograr, y por fin regule [a] poco mas 6 menos que tendra el rio en este parage unas [cien] varas de ancho. Observe la altura de este Puerto y lo halle en 32? 47: Y assi digo : En el Puerto de la Concepcion del rio Colorado, dia 13. de Mayo de 1776 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol : 75? 38: Dia 14. Se tomo el expediente de que las yndias passassen a nado varias cosas en sus coritas y caxetes grandes mientras se hacia la balsa, lo que se execute y estuvieron las indias todo el dia haciendo sus viages de esse modo. Se acabo la balsa, y a medio dia se passo una balsada con alguna gente. Bolvieron a des- baratar la balsa y formaron dos que se acabaron como a las seys [122] Diary of Pedro Font. 123 four inches every day, but very gradually, as though its rising were due to the melting of snows. It carried a great deal of brushwood, and the water was turbulent. Captain Palma said that he wanted to come with us in order that he might go to Mexico and pay his respects to the Viceroy, and tell him that he and his Yumas wanted very much to have the Spaniards and the fathers come and live among them. The commander told him of the length of the journey and the delays that would occur, owing to which he would not be able to return to his country for a long time. Palma replied by asking how many years it would be before he could return. The commander told him that it M'ould be a year or more. Then Palma said, "All right"; and, as he persevered in his proposal, he was received by the com- mander to be taken to INIexico with him. He was not to go alone, however, but with some who would volunteer to accompany him. From among the many who offered themselves, Palma chose two companions, to whom one young Cajuenche was added, and the three, with Captain Palma, accompanied us as far as the presidio of San Miguel, where I left them, and they remained with Cap- tain Anza. May 13. — [Our people] began to transfer the effects to the other side of the river on a large raft that they made; in the morning one raft-load was taken across, and in the afternoon another, Avith some of the people, but the raft suffered so much damage that it had to be rebuilt. I tried hard to measure with a rope the width of the river in the gorge, but I was not able to do so, and finally estimated that here the river must be one hundred yards wide, more or less. I observed the latitude of this pass, and found it to be 32° 47'; so I say: At the Puerto de la Concepcion, on the Rio Colorado, May 13th, 1776, meridian alti- tude of the lower limb of the sun, 75° 38'. May 14. — "Whilst the raft was being remade, we resorted to the expedient of having the Indian women swim across with a number of articles in trays and large flat bowls, so they spent the whole day in making trips in this fashion. The raft was finished, and at noon a raft-load with some people was taken across. The raft was broken up a second time, so thej^ made two, which were finished at about six in the evening, whereupon the [ 123 ] 124 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas de la tarde con lo qual determino el S'* Comandante que passasse- Leguas mos el rio. Se llenaron las balsas de trastes, y en una de ellas nos embarcamos el S'" Comandante el P. Fr. Thomas yo y otros que en todos eramos treze ; pero luego que entramos en el rio empezo la balsa a sobreaguarse por lo qual dos se saltaron a tierra con gran prissa y los onze que quedamos en ella nos vimos en peligro. Muchos yndios que estaban en la orilla y vieron lo que passaba se tiraron luego al agua y rodeandose de la balsa unos quarenta en doze minutos nos passaron al otro lado con mucha bulla y algazara y sin mas desgraeia que havernos mojado un poco. 131 Dia 15. Se acabo de passar lo que faltaba y la poca gente que havia quedado en una balsa; con que en seys balsadas y los viages que hicieron las yndias se passo todo y vadeamos el rio. Nos despedimos de los Yumas con bastante ternura por su fidelidad, y afecto que nos manifestaron deseando saber quando bolveriamos ; y proseguimos nuestro camino con el P. Fr. Thomas sin aguardar ya al P. Garces agregandose a nosotros el capitan Palma y sus companeros. Salimos pues de la orilla del rio Colorado a las quatro y tres quartos de la tarde y a las nueve de la 7 noche paramos en el puerto y orillas del Gila haviendo caminado siete leguas las dos primeras con el con el mismo rumbo que a la ida, cogiendo nuestro camino. El temperamento que experimente en el rio Colorado y rio Gila es, muy frio en invierno. y muy caliente en verano. 132 Dia 16. Salimos del Puerto y orillas del Gila a las cinco y media de la manana, y a las seys y media de la tarde paramos en la laguna salobre haviendo caminado seys leguas. Se determino 6 desde aqui dexar el camino de la ida, y atravessando por la papagueria ir a salir a la mission de Caborca, por ser camino mas derecho para ir a S'^ Miguel de Orcasitas. 133 Dia 17. Salimos de la Laguna salobre a las quatro y quarto de la tarde, y a las onze y tres quartos de la noche paramos en un zacatal duro que llaman galleta, una legua despues de passado el arroyo lleno de arena que llaman los pozos de enmedio, haviendo caminado onze leguas, con rumbo tres al sur seys al ii sursudeste, y dos al sudeste. [124] Diary of Pedro Font. 125 commander decided that we should cross the river. The rafts were loaded with goods, and the commander, Father Tomas, and I, with others — thirteen of us in all — embarked on one of them. But as soon as we got into the river the raft began to sink, so two people leaped ashore in great haste, and we eleven who were left found ourselves in danger. A number of Indians, who were on the bank and saw what was happening, threw themselves at once into the water, and, about forty of them surrounding the raft, took us to the other side in twelve minutes amid great noise and confusion, and with no other misfortune to us than a slight wetting. May 15. — We finished taking across on one raft what was left of the goods, and the few people who remained. In all, six raft-loads and what the Indian women carried took every- thing, and we were across. We bade farewell to the Yumas with much tenderness on account of the fidelity and affection which they showed us, desiring to know when we should return. We then pursued our way with Father Tomas, waiting no longer for Father Garces; Captain Palma and his companions joined us. We set out, then, from the Rio Colorado at a quarter to five in the afternoon, and, at nine in the evening, halted on the bank of the Gila in the pass, having travelled about seven leagues, the first two in the same direction as when we came, following the same road. The climate that I experienced on the Gila and Colorado rivers is very cold in winter and very warm in summer. May 16. — We set out from the banks and pass of the Rio Gila at half-past five in the morning, and, at half-past six in the afternoon, halted at the Laguna Salobre, having travelled six leagues. It was here decided to leave the road we had taken on our outward journey, and, by going through the Papagueria, to come out at the mission of Caborca, as this was the most direct road to San Miguel de Ilorcasitas. May 17. — We left the Laguna Salobre at a quarter past four in the afternoon and, at a quarter to twelve at night, halted in a field of tough grass, called galleta, one league beyond a gully, full of sand, named Los Pozos de en INIedio, having travelled eleven leagues : three of them to the south, six to the south-south- east, and two southeast. [123] 126 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jorradas Dia 18. Salimos del zacatal duro a las cinco de la maiiana, Legnas 134 y a la una y tres quartos de la noche paramos cerea el llano del tuzal antes del puerto bianco, haviendo caminado diez y oelio is leguas, eon rumbo muy variado tres al este quarta al nordeste dos al nordeste y una al estsudeste, y llegamos a las tinajas de la candelaria en donde nos detuvimos hasta la tarde. Luego tres al nordeste por mal pais seys al sudeste y tres al estsudeste. 135 Dia 19. Salimos del llano del tuzal a las cinco de la manana, y a las onze y media llegamos al arroyo del carrizal, haviendo caminado diez leguas, con rumbo tres al estsudeste y las otras al lo sudeste quarta al sur. 136 Dia 20. Salimos del arroyo del Carrizal a las cinco y tres quartos de la manana, y a las oclio y media de la noche paramos al pie de unos cerros, haviendo caminado treze leguas con rumbo 13 seys al este, y tres al estsudeste, y llegamos a la mission destruida llamada San Marcelo de Sonoytac, en donde nos detuvimos hasta la tarde. Luego dos al sursudeste y dos al sudeste. 137 Dia 21. Salimos del Pie de los cerros a las quatro y media de la manana, y a las onze de la noche paramos en un zacatal haviendo caminado diez y siete leguas, con rumbo dos al sur- 17 sudeste dos al sursudoeste dos al sudoeste y dos al oestsudoeste y llegamos a Quitobac, pueblo de visita que fue de la mission de Sonoytac llamado S° Luis, en donde nos detuvimos hasta la tarde. Luego con una al estsudeste, dos al sudeste una al sursudeste una al sur tres al sudeste, y una al estsudeste. I3g Dia 22. Salimos del Zacatal a las cinco y tres quartos de la manana, y a las diez y media de la noche llegamos cerca el parage llamado San Yldefonso haviendo caminado quinze leguas, con 15 rumbo, dos al estsudeste, cinco al sudeste, y una al sur, y llegamos a San Eduardo de la aribaycpia, que es un arroyo lleno de arena en donde nos detuvimos hasta la tarde. Luego tres al sursudeste, dos al sudeste, y dos al sursw^osudoeste. 139 Dia 23. Salimos del parage de San Yldefonso a las cinco y media de la manana, y a las doze llegamos a la mission de Caborca [126] Diary of Pedro Font, 127 May 18.— We started from the field of tough grass at five in 1776 the morning, and, at a quarter before two at night, halted in the ""j^ Llano del Tuzal, before reaching the white pass, having travelled eighteen leagues in varying directions : three to the east by north ; two to the northeast; and one to the east-southeast, arriving at the watering-place of La Candelaria, where we stayed until after- noon ; afterwards, three to the northeast over rough country, six to the southeast, and three to the east-southeast. ]\Iay 19. — We set out from the Llano del Tuzal at five in the morning, and, at half-past eleven, arrived at the Arroyo del Carrizal, having travelled ten leagues, three of them to the south- east, and the others southeast by south. May 20. — We set out from the Arroyo del Carrizal at a quarter to six in the morning, and, at half-past eight at night, halted at the foot of some hills, having travelled thirteen leagues : six of them to the east; and three to the east-southeast, coming to the destroyed mission called San Marcelo de Sonoitac, where we remained until afternoon; then, two leagues to the south- southeast and two southeast. May 21. — We set out from the foot of the hills at half -past four in the morning, and, at eleven at night, halted in a field of grass, having travelled seventeen leagues : two to the south-south- east ; two to the south-southwest ; two to the southwest ; and two to the west-southwest, and arrived at Quitobac, formerly a town of visitation of the mission of Sonoitac, called San Luis, where we stayed until afternoon; later, one league to the east-southeast, two to the southeast, one east-southeast, one south, three south- east, and one east-southeast. May 22. — We set out from the field of grass at a quarter to six in the morning, and arrived near the place called San Ilde- fonso at half-past ten at night, having travelled fifteen leagues in the following directions : two toward the east-southeast ; five to the southeast ; one to the south, arriving at San Eduardo de la Aribaycpia, which is a gully filled with sand, where we stayed until afternoon; then three leagues to the south-southeast, two southeast, and two south-southwest. May 23. — We set out from San Ildefonso at half-past five in the morning, and, at twelve, arrived at the mission of Caborca, [127] 128 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jomadas habiendo caminado nueve leguas, con rumbo tres al sur, tres al Leguas sudeste, y tres al estsudeste. Se pidieron al presidio del Altar algunas bestias para alivio de las que ya venian cansadas del mal camino de la papagueria. Dia 24. Nos detuvimos en la Mission. Observe la altura de esta Mission y la halle, en 30? 44: Y assi digo : En la Mission de Caborca, dia 24. de Mayo de 1776 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol : 80? 140 Dia 25. Se fue el P. Fr. Thomas Eixareh, para su mission de Tumacacori. Salimos de la mission de Caborca a las quatro y quarto de la tarde, y a las onze y media de la noche, paramos en el baxio del parage llamado el Bamuri, haviendo caminado diez 10 leguas, con rumbo al sursudeste. 141 Dia 26. Salimos del Bamuri a las cinco y quarto de la manana, y a las ocho y quarto llegamos al real de la Cieneguilla, 5 haviendo caminado cinco leguas con rumbo al sursudeste. Dia 27. Nos detuvimos este dia. Observe la altura de esse real y lo halle en 30? 14:1/2- Y assi digo : En el Real de la Ciene- guilla, dia 27. de Mayo de 1776 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol 81? Dia 28. Aunque se avia determinado seguir oy nuestro camino, nos detuvimos por lograr la ocasion de ir juntos y de comboy con otra gente que salia maiiana, por quanto el camino que nos faltaba es muy peligroso por los enemigos Apaches que en estos tiempos ban executado en el varios insultos y muertes, v aun mas que los Apaches, los Seris y los Pimas o Piatos alzados. 142 Dia 29. Salimos del Real de la Cieneguilla a las cinco y quarto de la tarde, y a las diez de la noche paramos en el parage llamado los Cerritos haviendo caminado siete leguas, con rumbo 7 dos al sudeste, y cinco al estsudeste. 143 Dia 30. Salimos de los Cerritos a las quatro y tres quartos de la manana, y a las nueve y quarto de la noche paramos en un [128] Diary of Pedro Font, 129 having travelled nine leagues: three to the south, three south- east, and three to the east-southeast. All the road through the Papagueria is verj'^ winding and twisting, on account of the great scarcity of pasture and, more particularly, of watering- places, so that the necessity of hunting for them is the reason why this road is so hard to traverse. At the presidio of Altar we asked for some animals to relieve those that were entirely worn out by the hard road of the Papagueria. May 24. — We remained at the mission. I observed the lati- tude of this mission and found it to be 30° 44' ; so I say : At the mission of Caborca, May 24, 1776 ; meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 80°. May 25. — Father Tomas Eixarch went away to his mission of Tumacacori. We set out from the mission of Caborca at a quarter past four in the afternoon, and, at half-past eleven at night, halted in the sandy bottoms named El Bamuri, having travelled ten leagues to the south-southeast. May 26. — We set from El Bamuri at a quarter past five in the morning, and, at a quarter past eight, arrived at the Real de la Cieneguilla, having marched five leagues south-southeast. May 27. — We remained here to-day. I observed the latitude of the camp, and found it to be 30° I4I/2' ; so I say : At the Real de la Cieneguilla, May 27, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 81°. May 28. — Although it had been decided to continue our jour- ney to-day, we tarried in order to take advantage of the oppor- tunity of travelling in company with some other people who were to set out the next day, and to act as their escort ; for the remainder of the road is very dangerous on account of the unfriendly Apaches, who have recently committed a number of outrages and murders along it. Even worse than the Apaches are the Seris and the Pimas or Piatos Alzados. ^lay 29. — We set out from the Real de la Cieneguilla at a quarter past five in the afternoon, and, at ten o'clock at night, halted at the place called Los Cerritos, having travelled seven leagues, two to the southeast, and five east-southeast. ]\lay 30. — We set out from Los Cerritos at a quarter to five in the morning, and, at a quarter past nine at night, halted in a [129] 130 Academy of Pacific Coast History. jornadas llano Una legua despues de la junta de los eaminos haviendo Leguas caminado catorze leguas, con rumbo, siete al sudeste, y llegamos 14 al aguage del tecolote en donde nos detuvimos liasta la tarde. Luego siete al sudeste quarta al este. 144 Dia 31. Salimos del llano a las quatro y tres quartos de la manana, y a las diez y quarto de la noche paramos en un llano despues del zanjon haviendo caminado quinze leguas con rumbo 15 cinco al sudeste y sursudeste hasta el pozo de Chryssanto, en donde nos detuvimos hasta la tarde. Luego diez al estsudeste con alguna variacion. 145 Dia 1. de Junio. Salimos del llano a las cinco de la maiiana, y a las ocho llegamos al Presidio de S*^ Miguel de Orcasitas, haviendo caminado quatro leguas con rumbo al estsudeste y aun 4 quasi al este. Dia 2. " Me detuve en el Presidio. A medio dia observe la altura de este Presidio y lo halle en 29? 30: Y assi digo: En el Presidio de S'^ Miguel de Orcasitas, dia 2. de Junio de 1776 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol: 82? 34: En este Presidio de S"^ Miguel de Orcasitas, del qual salio la expedicion se acabo nuestro viage de ida y buelta, y el dia 5. de Junio me passe a la mission de Vres en donde saque este diario, y trabaje el mapa que lo acompaiia lo qual conclui dia 23. de Junio de 1776. Fr. Pedro Font, (rubrica) [130] Diary op Pedro Font. 131 plain one league beyond the fork of the roads, having travelled 1776 fourteen leagues : seven to the southeast, when we arrived at the ^ Aguage del Tecolote, where we remained until afternoon; then seven leagues southeast by east. ]\Iay 31. — "We set out from the plain at a quarter to five in the morning, and, at a quarter past ten at night, halted on a plain on the other side of the slough, having travelled fifteen leagues: five to the southeast and south-southeast as far as the Pozo de Chrysanto, where we remained until afternoon; then ten to the east-southeast with some variation. June 1. — We set out from the plain at five in the morning, and arrived at the presidio of San Miguel de Horeasitas at eight, having travelled four leagues to the east-southeast, almost due east. June 2. — I stayed at the presidio. At noon I observed the latitude of this presidio, and found it to be 29° 30' ; so I say : In the presidio of San Miguel de Horeasitas, June 2, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 82° 34'. Our round trip was thus ended at this presidio of San ]\[iguel de Horeasitas, from which the expedition had set out, and on the 5th of June I went to the mission of Ures, where I wrote out this diary, and drew the map accompanying it, all of which I finished on the 23rd day of June, 1776. Friar Pedro Font. (rubric) [131] ^m 3] 1913 Publications of the Academy of Pacific Coast History Vol. 3 No. I THE ANZA EXPEDITION OF 1775-1776 DIARY OF PEDRO FONT Edited by Frederick J. Teggart Associate Professor of Pacific Coast History, University of California Curator of the Academy of Pacific Coast History University of California Berkeley, California March, 1913 ACADEMY OF PACIFIC COAST HISTORY. (Founded 1907.) MEMBERS OF THE COUNCIL. Thomas R. Baed William F. Heeein William B. Bourn Richard M. Hotaling William H. Ceocker Livingstone Jenks Guy C. Earl James K. Moffitt Joseph D. Grant Frederick W, Shaeon Mes. Phoebe Appeeson Hearst Sigmund Steen Rudolph J. Taussig Benjamin Lje Wheeler, ex officio OFFICERS. Heney Mobse Stephens, Secretary. Frederick J. Teggart, Curator and Editor. Herbert I. Priestley, Assistant Curator. According to the Constitution of the Academy, there are still seven places to be filled upon the Council. Extracts from the Constitution of the Academy of Pacific Coast History : Article I. The name of the Academy shaU be the Academy of Pacific Coast History. Article II. Its object shall be the promotion of the study of the political, social, commercial and the industrial history, and of the ethnology, geography, and literature of the Pacific Coast of America, and the publication of monographs, historical documents, and other historical material relating thereto. Article III. The Regents of the University of California have entrusted the control and administration of the books and manuscripts collected by Mr. H. H. Bancroft and known as the Bancr'oft Collection, together with such other historical material as is already in their possession or may come into their possession, to the Council of the Academy of Pacific Coast History, on condition that the President of the University of California be, ex officio, a member of the Council, that the Secretary of the Academy be appointed by the Regents, and that the names of members of the Council be sub- mitted to the Regents for their approval. Article IX. Any person approved by the Council may become a Fellow of the Acad- emy of Pacific Coast History upon the recommendation of two fellows and the payment of ten dollars ; and after the first year may continue a fellow by paying an annual subscription of ten dollars in advance. On payment of one hundred dollars, any fellow may become a life-feUow exempt from further subscriptions. Article X. The publications of the Academy of Pacific Coast History shall be for- warded free of charge to all Fellows of the Academy of Pacific Coast His- tory, and they shall be entitled to additional copies of these publications at a reduced rate from that charged to the general public. Applications for Fellowships in the Academy of Pacific Coast History may be made to the Secretary, Curator, or to the Secre- tary of the Board of Regents, University of California, Berkeley, California. PUBLICATIONS OF THE ACADEMY OF PACIFIC COAST HISTORY. VOLUME 1. 1. The San Francisco Clearing House Certificates of 1907-1908, by Carl Copping Plehn, Professor of Finance, University of California. 14 pages and plate. January, 1909. 2. The oflScial account of the Portola Expedition of 1769-1770, edited by Frederick J. Tegqart, Curator, Academy of Pacific Coast History. 15 pages and plate. August, 1909. 3. Diary of Caspar de Portola during the California Expedition of 1769- 1770, edited by Donald Eugene Smith, Assistant Professor of History and Geography, University of California, and Feedeeick J. Tegqart. 59 pages and plate. October, 1909. 4. The Narrative of the Portola Expedition of 1769-1770 by Miguel Cos- tanso, edited by Adolph van Hemert-Engert, Assistant in the Academy of Pacific Coast History, and Frederick J. Tegqart. 69 pages and plate. March, 1910. 5. The United States ConsuJ5,te in California, by Rayner Wickersham Kelsey. 107 pages. June, 1910. 6. Diary of Patrick Breen, one of the Donner Party, 1846-1847, edited by Frederick J. Tegqart. 16 pages and plate. July, 1910. 7. Papers of the San Francisco Committee of Vigilance of 1851, I., edited by Porter Garnett, Assistant Curator, Academy of Pacific Coast History. 69 pages and plate. July, 1910. Price: In parts as issued $2.50 Sewed (paper covers) $2.75 Bound in blue cloth $3.00 VOLUME 2. 1. The Portola Expedition of 1769-1770 — Diary of Vicente Vila, Com- mander of the San Carlos, edited by Robert Selden Rose, Assistant in Spanish, Universitv of California. 119 pages and plate. July, 1911. 2. Papers of the San Francisco Committee of Vigilance of 1851, XL, edited by Porter Garnett. 19 pages and plate. July, 1911. 3. Expedition to San Francisco Bay in 1770 — Diary of Pedro Fages, edited by Herbert Eugene Bolton, Professor of American History, Uni- versity of California. 19 pages. July, 1911. 4. The Portola Expedition of 1769-1770 — Diary of Miguel Costanso, edited by Frederick J. Tegqart. 167 pagesw August, 1911. 5. Expedition on the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers in 1817 — Diary of Fray Narciso Duran, edited by Charles Edw^vrd Chapman, Assist- ant in the Academy of Pacific Coast History. 21 pages. December, 1911. VOLUME 3. 1. The Anza Expedition of 1775-1776 — Diary of Pedro Font, edited by Frederick J. Tegqart, Curator, Academy of Pacific Coast History. 131 pages and plate. March, 1913. y. LBiViv'13 1 017 064 116 4