/%-v > 'S^. } "-s i •\ '^l!^ '" ._■:,.:'^...„ ? ., ;- i^B^K^^H ^-^ ^-^..— —— — Vl—— „ .^y^. ^S^^^S --■"-- z.^^.^ : - :— _r : — — — -_ -— — V ^ _«^ — — ... "~ '^'^' ^ .„ — . __ ___ II!!!r ■ IN PORTS AFAR 8S* EDWIN A. SCHELL Class ij-S^ij_^ Bnok . t ()opyriglitN°____ COPYRIGHT DEPOSnV Digitized by tiie Internet Arciiive in 2011 witii funding from Tiie Library of Congress Iittp://www.arcliive.org/details/inportsafar01sclie IN PORTS AFAR By . EDWIN A^ SCHELL THE ABINGDON PRESS Copyright, 1914, By Edwin A. Schell AUG 28 1914 it i>CI,A380138 ^44-0 TO TRAVELERS ACROSS ALL MERIDL/^NS OF LONGITUDE, GRACIOUS IN HOSPITALITY, GENEROUS AS PROSPEROUS, PERSONAL FRIENDS AND FRIENDS OF MY WORK, THE COLLEGE, WITH GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENTS CONTENTS. PAQE I. Foreword and Wanderlust, - . - - 9 II. Two Weeks with the Greek Army, - - 29 III. The Ways of Trade, - - - - - - 44 IV. The Country of Jesus, 67 V. England All the Way, 84 VI. The Great Circle of India— I, - - - 98 VII. The Great Circle of India=II, - - - 120 VIII. Half Way, =». = . = - 137 IX. The Great American Adventure, = - - 154 X. Education in the Philippines, = = = 168 XI. Content and Per Contra, - - - = - 181 XII. The Fourteenth Amendment in the Philippines, 193 XIII. Fun^eral, Feast, and Function, - - = - 211 XIV. The Modern Antony, ^ = = = - 223 XV. America and Japan, = . = = = - 235 XVI. Trans-Pacific, . = = = -. ^ 252 IN PORTS AFAR Chapter I FOREWORD AND WANDERLUST rXlHE "wanderlust," like religion, is soul blown -^ in the race. Some subtle taint from the mi- gratory experiences of mankind remains as an infection of yearning and restlessness in us alL It does not need the advertisements of travel, pictures of galleries, tales of adventure, or maps of battle- fields to lure one abroad. It is innate, like honor, courage, and the instinct to command. The moun- tains that lift themselves into the sky, the stars on which we gaze, and the seas over which we rush are the same age after age ; likewise the desire to see them rene\^'s itself in every generation, and just as each man by some noble capacity may expand into knowledge of God and love and duty, so each heart opens to the curiosity and inquiry of what is beyond. Disappointment does not obliterate it, nor time heal it. No matter how long repressed by the discipline of life, it is yet like some latent bud ready to flower at opportunity. The Odyssey, -^neid, Anabasis fan it like a blow-pipe ; some pic- 9 IN PORTS AFAR ture of Balboa overlooking the Pacific, some head- line of Stanley breathless from the vast interior of Africa, or Peary, hooded and deep-chested from the frozen pole, summons us like some call of the wild, and renews the vows of our youth, "To sail beyond the sunset, and the baths Of all the western stars, until I die." Doubtless you have seen America from the Maine ^voods to the utmost fringes of Alaska; feasted your eyes on the gorgeous colorings of the Yellow- stone and Grand Canon; followed the trails and heard the voices of Yosemite, and pierced every pass in the Rockies, from Banff to the Royal Gorge ; have followed the beaten path over Europe, and rode in a Pullman through Mexico; but still, like Ulysses, you feel, *'I can not rest from travel." Then some day comes a strange official envelope without a postage stamp, as though you had been appointed postmaster. It invited you to lecture for a whole month as a Government official to the Teachers' Assembly, Baguio, at the end of the Benguet Road, in the far-away mountain province of Luzon, and incidentally view Corregidor and 10 FOREWORD AND WANDERLUST Manila Bay, that already bulk so large In Ameri- can history; Chicago University professors have preceded you^ a doctor professor from Columbia will be your colleague; it is the first invitation ex- tended to a denominational college president; will you go? The archbishop, who is neighbor at Ludington-on-the-Lake, knowing Washington and what Uncle Sam's commission means, says, "Of course.'' His younger colleague, fresh from the day's work and ready for the day's sport, remarks, "Such invitations come only to a few and once in a lifetime," both of which help to confirm the ad- venture as an opportunity. Then, once we had offered ourselves for foreign work, only to be re- jected and the appointment given to another; and, though always encouraging missions and preaching about them, it was in the vague fashion those are compelled to use \^ho speak without personal knowl- edge. The circumnavigation trip would give op- portunity to cross India, visit some one of its villages, sojourn in the leading stations, attend a Conference, touch China, talk with the leading missionaries, and thus get a student's view of the missionary idea, rather than a hotel view with which most travelers are satisfied. This would 11 IN PORTS AFAR bring us to the actual residences of no less than seven Iowa Wesley an alumni who, following the lead of Dr. Vernon and Miss Lawson, have volun- teered for service on the picket line of missions. One of our daughters is given to the same work. We could inspect also the great colonies of France, Algiers, Tunis, and Indo-China ; would see Egypt, India and the Straits Settlements, the principal colonies of England, and thus be able intelligently to estimate the worth and spirit of our own ad- venture in the Philippines. And so it came about that on a mid-winter day, lofty with anticipation after a day \^ith the Wel- come Hall Settlement, Buffalo, in charge of Dr. William E. McLennan, we make the rounds of the big Fifth Avenue building, say good-bye to Homer Eaton for the last time on earth, and, with a for= mer student to take a farewell snapshot, we sail out past Sandy Hook v/ith a bundle of steamer letters in our hands and a blur of mist and love in our eyes. The world was present when New York was founded, and it remains truly cosmopolitan. Its geographical situation determines its greatness. Every European event affects its fortunes, the 12 FOREWORD AND WANDERLUST growth of every State In the Union contributes to its prosperity; it is unchallengeably the greatest harbor on the planet; it is in the east, and there- fore rising; it is by the sea, and from it we may take a swift sea-chariot to the ends of the earth, or the smoking steam demon to Mexico City or Puget Sound. That big five-masted schooner is bound for Rio; the one racing neck and neck with it is off for New Zealand. Am{erican Liner, Cu- narder, Nord-Deutscher, Hamburger Nachrichten, Spaniard, Frenchman, all sail for the Mediterra- nean the same day, almost the same hour. We wonder why more cabins are not taken on our ship; she is booked for Naples, but is bound for Patras, and will reach the Italian port five days late. New Yorkers know and the Naples steerage inquirer learns, but we do not. Husbands wait for wives and children five days at Naples, and wives for husbands; there is inconvenience, broken jour- neys, and general dissatisfaction. The men who control the line let you ship, wire you for your passage money, and then, months after, coolly write : "All steamship companies' sailing schedules are ^subject to change without notice;' furthermore, we 13 IN PORTS AFAR are covered by clause No. 2 of the passage contract, which reads as follows: " 'The vessel shall have liberty to deviate from the direct or customary course — the company does not assume responsibility for missing a connection with other steamships.' 55 Thus their Chicago agent. In the language of Holy Writ, "Go not thou in the way with them." So we do not see Naples again, nor inspect our mission there, nor join dextram ad dextram with the Greenmans ; we buy no cameos, nor bring back the bronzes which we know are waiting for us, and just where. It is less loss because when the world was young we had traveled across Campania, looked out across the bay, located the ancient Raise, where the Romans, to the indignation of Horace, built their palaces out into the sea; had seen Cuma^, and Virgil's tomb, and even fancied the exact spot where the Alexandrian cornship with Paul on board had dropped its anchor. It is yet like a picture veiled in a golden haze, into which all colors and hopes resolve themselves. It is an event in any man's lifetime to come upon the foot- steps of St. Paul, as it was an event to Latin, Jew, and pagan to have him come to Rome. It was 14 FOREWORD AND WANDERLUST the accomplishment of a purpose long held in his mind, though not attained as he had expected. In the days of the Caesars a crossroad led to Capua, there joining the Appian Way. Yearning to help Rome, chained to a Roman legionary, St. Paul marches along the Alban slopes matching his spirit calmly against the Roman legions and empire. His own countrymen will not hear him, but he preaches to the soldiers in the barracks; exclusiveness dies hard, but it was dying even then; it was the last chance of the Jew ; rabbis who will not make terms with Christ must pass into silence and oblivion. The Greeks and Romans who crowded the forum gave him no hearing, only contemptuous indiffer- ence; but heathenism was wounded to the heart at his coming, and no forum could hold the myriads who now read the letters of the captivity. It took the Mamertine to give us the Epistles to Timothy, but they are worth it. Many an old hero of the faith still turns on his last pillow with the words of the imprisoned Paul on his lips, "I have fought a good fight; I have finished my course; I have kept the faith.'' There is a special charm in sailing for the Medi- terranean. The North Atlantic route, involving 15 IN PORTS AFAR as it does a shorter voyage, according to the mathe- matics of the great circle, and bringing us direct to our blood Norse brothers, the English and the German, is much more used. But the romance of sea history belongs to a journey in lower latitudes. The ship follo\^s the forty-first parallel until it approaches the Portuguese coast, thence south for Gibraltar and Algiers. The great mariners of history all sailed the same waters. Phoenicians, Carthagenians, Greeks, Romans, 'Norsemenj Ital- ians, Spaniards, French, English, all have pointed their ships over the same sea, by the same stars, and sailed or drifted into the Azores. Here passed Columbus "Westward Ho," and Santa Cruz, fa- mous marquis, greatest of the Spanish admirals, who took his title from the Bay of Santa Cruz; here sailed Drake, pirate and wrecker of Spanish galleons and, according to Lope de Vega's "Drag- ontea," the Dragon of the Apocalypse. Rodney, Decatur, Nelson, and others of whose names his- tory is full, all burning with the fires of hope and purpose, have seen these shores rise into sight and sink below the horizon. Their eyes, like mine, saw Draco blinding among the stars of the Bear, best known of the northern constellations, and the Dip- 16 FOREWORD AND WANDERLUST per make its nightly circuit about the pole. Their little ships serve as models in the museums now, and their faded portraits hang on the walls of the galleries men travel abroad to see, but their great names are a part of that perpetual heritage with which the past endows the present. The weather is much warmer than we had ex- pected for a T\?inter voyage, and we walk our five miles daily, play shuffle-board and deck golf, read and get acquainted with our fellow passengers sit- ting about in steamer chairs. Chess is a fine game for a long voyage. Sea travel affords the leisure chess requires. A German and an East-shore Marylander played a game every evening after din- ner in the reading-room. Their games averaged two hours in length. Temperamentally both were fitted for the game : phlegmatic, tenacious, and with a certain military fire and dash at times. We watched them by the hour, and once, when the German was all but checkmated, he used the same moves we had seen Bishop FitzGerald use in an almost similar impasse. No one better than the good bishop knew how to use the knight for pur- poses of attack, and he had a subtle sense of values that told him when it was profit and when loss to « 17 IN PORTS AFAR exchange a bishop for the knight. Every game was a campaign to him, and he carried it all in his mind. He alone of all the men it has been my profit to know could perfectly play chess without board or pieces. He could begin with queen's pawn to queen's third, and through the most in- volved game know the exact location of every pawn and piece. That marked one of his aptitudes for the episcopal office. When there were three hun- dred appointments to make, each of the presiding elders knew their part of them — or let us hope and suppose they did — ^but he knew them all and car- ried them all in his great, frictionless mind. Just as Bishop Walden had a genius for figures, and would have made a great chancellor of the ex- chequer, so Bishop FitzGerald had a talent for ad- ministration. Few chess experts played the game better, and no bishop ever made uniformly better appointments. Some of the Conferences were in almost open revolt at his refusal to move men at the end of the first year. Young men from the colleges and on their way to preferment and con- spicuous places, he thought, could afford to go back for a second year; the bishop believed that to miove men in the rank and file at the end of 18 FOREWORD AND WANDERLUST the first year meant, without exception, that the man was inefficient. In his theory men who moved every year ought to study to increase their effi- ciency, learn how to stay acceptably or leave the itinerancy. The settled pastorate to him was put- ting the king in the "castle." And following these games forward on the look- out, and in the silent solitude of night and sea, unanswerable questions thrust themselves upon us unasked. Are men like queen, bishop, knight, rook, and pawn, lifted here and there and placed by some skillful player's hand, traded, pocketed, or lost by capture for the general good in some great "game," or do we by native force, training, and happy use of adventitious moments become ^^pieces," and no longer pawns ; like the queen mov- ing all ways, or as a bishop narrowed to the white or black diagonal, or as the knight with his two paces forward and one to the right, while others lacking the force, teacher, or circumstance, remain pawns .f^ Either conclusion is preferable to the theory that we are subject to chance. Yet the first hypothesis challenges liberty, and the second me- diates against justice. The one leans toward authority, and the other tends toward democracy. 19 IN PORTS AFAR Yet in the singular sciences predicated upon them respectively, theology and politics, we are left at last to choose our own creed and elect our own governors. Two things germane to each hypothesis seem plain; first, that it is comforting to believe that we are put upon particular squares by the guiding authority of an unseen hand, and second, that there is no success possible to men, churches, or nations but in finding their real superiors and obeying them. Parallel to this is Kant's question as to whether a necessary condition of existence is to have had being in space and time. For example, is Julius Caesar more to us because he actually lived, and is Ben-Hur less because he is the creature of the im- agination of General Wallace? Csesar surely would be less to us were he not embellished by the his- torical fancy of Plutarch and the imaginative fac- ulty of Shakespeare. But what is the test of Reality.^ Does it, in the case of Caesar, lie in the proof that he walked the Forum, or in the imag- ination of his contemporaries and of after-times.'^ Would Ben-Hur be a greater "reality" had he actually served in the galleys, walked in the grove of Daphne, and won the chariot race.'^ He was 20 FOREWORD AND WANDERLUST not subject to conditions of space and time, but he has been actually created, unless creation is purely physical, and not psychical nor moral. Boys are named after him, a fraternal insurance company every week celebrates his courage and virtues in a ritual, and as you pass through Craw- fordsville even now men and women say, "Here Ben-Hur lived." This is not intellectual quibbling ; it is the Kantian proof of Christianity. Historical truth is a question of space and time ; Reality lies in the recognition which the mind gives as con- forming to and representing universal experience. This is the real test of the canonicity of a book. The merit of the Galatians is not that Paul wrote it, but what Paul wrote, and its weight and import as it appeals to me for broadmindedness and charity. If Galatians is more to me than other uncanonical letters, it is because Paul wrote such a message that its answering nobleness appealed to the bishops and believers who composed the Council of Carthage, and who therefore put it in the Canon. So Christianity, having taken possession of the spiritual convictions of mankind by conformity with universal experience, carries with it its own evidence, and every new generation may have — 21 IN PORTS AFAR nay, must have — its own conclusive proof. Such evidence is the only final barrier to formality and indifference, and without it religion becomes a mat- ter of altar-cloths and ritual. We carried with us besides our guide-books the "Will to Believe," by the late William James, and the eight books of the Odyssey — sixth to the thir- teenth, inclusive — recounting the experiences of Ulysses among the Phaeacians. It may have been the Greeks on board or the long-determined pleas- ure of the re-reading, but the story of the Phae- acians took on a new meaning as we coasted along in sight of ^tna, Ithaca, and up the Ionian Sea. The big university by the lake, and the academy recitation-room came back as we read, and at the same time we recalled the failure to memorize the first ten lines of the sixth book as attested by the professor's recitation mark. Glancing again at the pages, the billowy hexameters all but recite themselves : ■UTTVO) KOL Ka/xaro) aprjfxevos. avrap A®T^vrj Some have thought that in the incident of the Phse- acians we have the earliest description of the Phoe- 22 FOREWORD AND WANDERLUST nician colonies. It is hardly necessary to press such a meaning. It gives opportunity for the ex- tension of princely hospitality to the hero at the time of his sorest need and a resting-place for the recital of his adventures. The Odyssey, one of the morning poems of lit- erature, is rich in womanly character. Indeed, it is the "eternal feminine" which gives it the height- ened approval of every new generation. Even Shakespeare, who lacks so little in any respect, must yield the palm for womanly character to the old Greek bards who sang of Penelope, Arete, and Nausicaa. Miranda is often compared to Nau- sicaa. Each dwelt in an island home ; both are por- trayed in that flying moment of girlhood ; each has purity, grace, and freshness, with beauty, reserve, and versatility; Shakespeare has drawn Miranda as Homer has drawn Nausicaa, without saying much of her personal charm, which is left for us to interpret, but the simplicity, naivete, and force- fulness of the Greek maiden seems to me incom- parably superior. Ulysses is himself set apart by the word "polutlas," used five times in the Iliad and thirty-five times in the Odyssey. He possessed the beauty of human form which the Greeks did 23 IN PORTS AFAR not retain for the women alone, but bestowed upon all their heroes. There, by the far-resounding sea, we can imagine Robert Browning meeting Eliza- beth Barrett, and the address which Ulysses makes to Nausicaa is deserving the comment that Homer makes of it, "Straightway a gracious and winning speech he spake." Beauty was one of the three great gifts of the gods to men, and both the man who speaks and the woman addressed have it. The words need to be winsome; and Homer, whose speeches are everywhere wonderful specimens of eloquence, has never surpassed the admirably con- trived appeal which the shipwrecked hero makes to the maiden. Beginning with the assumption that she is a goddess, he likens her to Artemis; but if she is mortal, her beauty must be the joy of all dear to her; anything comparable to it he never saw save once, a springing palm at Delos. Rever- ence for her beauty is so mingled with his admira- tion that it sustains and elevates a flattery which would be too open and unblushing in itself. After referring to his former importance in the world and claiming the right of hospitality, he closes with the wish that the gods who persecute him may shower upon her the choicest blessings they have 24 FOREWORD AND WANDERLUST in store for maiden virtue and maiden hope,— a husbandj home, and fondest mutual affection. Only Naomi wishing her daughters-in-law rest in the "house of a husband" equals it. Nausicaa is not outdone by the "wily" traveler, for when at last he departs laden with gifts, she does not under- rate the part she took in his welcome, and says with sweetness and dignity, ^'Stranger, farewell! and in thy native land, Remember thou hast owed thy life to me." Her mother. Arete, as well as the daughter and Penelope, are called "/Jao-tAeta," which never occurs in the Iliad, and the word betokens the increased influence of women due to the absence of their husbands at Troy and the cares of state devolving upon them. She is even more remarkable than her charming daughter. Fifty maids stand attentive at her slightest call, and she is well known for activity in public uDatters. She is prophetic of the modern feminine movement, which really is as old as the race, retarded and delayed by the religions of the far East, Brahmanism, Buddhism, and Mo- hammedanism, and the dreadful crimes against womanhood and childhood which they have counte- 25 IN PORTS AFAR nanced. Arete shares with Alcinous the govern- ment of the realm: "From their hearts Her children pay her reverence, and the king, And all the people, for they look on her As if she were a goddess. When she goes Abroad into the streets, all welcome her With acclamations. Never does she fail In wise discernm{ent, but decides disputes Kindly and justly between man and man." She has the beauty, the position, and occupation of the wife, and is the second of the incomparable group of women that remain from the Odyssey. Penelope belongs later in the Epic, and makes the third, and though it is not relevant to discuss her, she is the loj^al woman who, through all the heart- breaking years, refuses to believe her husband dead, and by the far-reaching spell of her own womanli- ness holds the wanderer against all Circes and Ca- lypsos, who would retain him for their own immor- tality. The Phasacian episode closes with the people in the agora at prayer before their tutelary deity. They stand in great fear of some catastrophe if they do not obey the god ; this explains the ethical purpose of the poet, and doubtless his literary in- 26 FOREWORD AND WANDERLUST tent is to protect himself against the critics of his time; if they ask why the Phasacians can not be found, he will reply that perhaps the god de- stroyed them; if they are found, then he will be able to say that the intercession before the altar and the sacrifice propitiated the wrath of Poseidon so that they were spared. Poetic interest in the fate of the Phseacians is thus secured, and kneeling about their patrial altar the people appear as unique and winning as the individual characters portrayed. The quick setting of the scene in the first line of the sixth book, the introduction of the goddess in the second line, the splendor of the palace, the symmetry, serenity and regularity of the garden, the frankness and simplicity of the per- sonages, and the religious faith of the people sketches a story of animate and inanimate beauty which is nowhere surpassed. The State universities have almost banished Greek from the curricula, and put their entire emphasis on "gainful occupations." The sure re- mains of Greek is found only in the letters of the fraternities. It may be economically profitable, but it is a serious educational loss. So long as the Parthenon is pictured as the ideal of the world's 27 IN PORTS AFAR fairest building, the Venus de Milo as its greatest model, while the Attic orators, historians, and tra- gedians remain unsurpassed, and the Odyssey stands the world's greatest imaginative work, a man gives proof of his culture by getting ac- quainted with and keeping alive his interest in Greek. After the Phseacians, William James is steady- ing, and then we select "Vanity Fair" from the ship's library bulging with novels, which we finish just in time to ifind the lights on Cape St. Vincent. 28 Chapter II TWO WEEKS WITH THE GREEK ARMY T^7E traveled to Patras with 2,188 Greeks, ^ ^ third reservists, going home for war or peace. The London negotiations were at a dead- lock when we sailed, and the sea a welter of foam- ing mountains, whipped into fury by the gales which swept up the coast on January 3d and 4th, raising the oscillation of the Manhattan sky- scrapers to a maximum. Tourists and Greeks alike had trouble in finding their sea-legs ; thereafter an intimate observation of cabin by steerage and steer- age by cabin ripened into mutual understanding and good wishes. They were tall, husky laborers, such as you see on the huge Keokuk dam and in railway construction gangs. They cheered the shoals of porpoises at the vessel's side, shouted at passing ships, and roared their interest when the wireless messages were read to them. One became a little ashamed at maritime commercialism when seeing them pay over their scanty earnings to hear 29 IN PORTS AFAR the news. Every man among them had property, family, or friends dependent upon their loyalty, and the self-sacrificing way they rose to that in- definable passion for country and home we call pa- triotism, was as sturdy as it was pathetic. The first climax came on Saturday night. The report of the threatened withdrawal of the Turkish envoys from the peace negotiations was read. On the instant spahr, saloon, and main decks aft were swarming with a veritable mob. The second-cabin Greeks pressed up to the rail, and a sea of angry, determined faces were silhouetted against the black night. A young, muscular chap, a student for a few months at Roberts College, foreman in a bridge construction gang, climbed up to the hurricane deck and made a speech, which he reproduced for me on Sunday morning. Flashlight kodak, steno- graphic notes, and the voice of Demosthenes would be needed to give any hint of its real effect. He was waving a photograph when he began, and the speech was about as follows: "This is a picture of four brothers; three of them are now in the army, and I go with the third reserves, so all of us will fight the Fez. To-night the news is for war ; to-morrow we shall hear again. 30 TWO WEEKS WITH THE GREEK ARMY We want no peace until the Islands, Crete, and Salonica belong to Hellas. By the blessed Virgin, by the blessed Joseph, by the blessed ikons in the churches, by the blessed America, where I have hard work [meaning, I think, a good job], plenty to eat, and am treated like a free man, I say, 'Down with the Fez ; long live Hellas !' " Just at this time a Greek flag was flung out on the mdzzen, and the 2,188 sang the Greek hymn. Then there were shouts like the yelps of wolves and the roar of lions, "Down with the Fez !" Then eight or ten groups joined hands and with hand- kerchiefs, like children, played ring-around-a-rosy ; after an hour of effervescence and slow subsidence of feeling one of the Greeks raised "America," and we heard these aliens sing the new hymn already grown dear. The Laconia, with another 3,000, was in the harbor of Algiers at the same time our ship was there. The two ships lay at anchor scarcely 150 feet apart. After our tour of the city and its environs we sat on deck and watched the diff'erent groups call to each other. Then, as late in the afternoon the Laconia pulled out, the air was rent with cannon crackers, torpedoes, and the 5,000 31 IN PORTS AFAR joined in the Greek hymn. To hear them sing made me think of the Germans after the Battle of Leuthen. Frederick's army, 28,000 strong, had beaten the Austrians with 80,000. It was there that Frederick got his schrdge Stellung to work with such precision and success as it had not been used since Alexander employed it at Arbela. When the pursuit was over and the army drew into camp, a grenadier started up an old church hymn. The military bands fell in, and soon the Tvhole army was singing. Many-voiced like the Covenanters, it sounded across the hills to the watchful King: *'Gib, dass ich's thu' mit Fleiss was mir zu thun gebtihret, Wozu mich Dein Befehl in meinem Stande fiihret; Gib, dass ich's thue bald, zu der Zeit ich's soil Und wenn ich's thu', so gib dass es gerathe wohl." The Greek chorals and the German hymns add vastly to the enthusiasm of a brigade. The Ger- mans sing better; no oratorio can equal the music made by a brigade of the German army one night at Mainz as they sang "Wacht am Rhein" and "Nun danket." But the Greeks sing well, and when, at 11.30 o'clock of the day we landed at Patras, 670 were entrained and pulled out of the depot for the siege of Janina, which three weeks 32 TWO WEEKS WITH THE GREEK ARMY later surrendered, they \^'ere still singing the Greek hymn, interspersing it with the yell, "Down with the Fez!" We visited the hospital, where 400 Greek wounded were in charge, saw 500 Turkish prisoners in barracks, and after two weeks with them we offer two observations: The Greeks have the great hatred which is requisite for strong per- sonalities and a great nationality — at present it is hatred of the Turk ; by and by, if the Home Mis- sionary Society reaches them, it will be hatred of things un-American. Then they have the great love which unifies and clarifies. Now it is for Hellas, but by and by it will be love for American ideals. The po\^er of this great antipathy and affection is primal for future Americanism. Pa- triotism burns among them with a steady glow. Tens of thousands have hiurried fromt America to help drive the Turk out of Europe ; everywhere in Patras we were told that the best soldiers in the army came from America. They brought with them a spirit and fortitude which animated the rank and file and reached up to the officers and in- spired even the throne itself. The United States is the university for the world's democracy. It beckons to its educative influence the peoples of all 3 33 IN PORTS AFAR lands. The Government Is missionary In the Phil- ippine Islands, must sooner or later become police- man in Mexico and Central America; but teacher, i^ith schoolhouse, laboratory, and courses in op- portunity for self-help, self-support, self-control, the United States has been, is, and must remain. It takes a world-voyage to learn how the common people yearn to go to America. Here speaks the sovereign voice in the coming fortunes of mankind. From Patras we sailed up the Ionian Sea past Ithaca and Corfu to Brindisi. The rocky coast, the ancient Acamania, looks uninhabitable. Far across an inlet with our field-glasses we could lo- cate Missilonghi. Ithaca deserves the line of Ten- ^ ' "Among these barren crags." Greece, as compared with New England, is bar- ren, and that to an lowan is extreme. The flocks winding along the steep slopes, or back and forth on the zigzags; the lights which twinkle from the rocks as day begins to fail; the moan of the sea, and the heavy beat of the surf on the rocks is weird and fascinating. But the passengers on the Derna, an Italian ship, are even more interesting than the rocky, precipitous coast, though we stayed late on 34 TWO WEEKS WITH THE GREEK ARMY deck. James Anthony Froude is reported to have said once in CaHfornia, when they were trying to persuade him to go to Yosemite, that he "would rather travel a thousand miles to talk to a sensible man than to walk to the end of the street for the finest view in America." We had both the view and the interesting people on the Derna. When the air began to grow chill we adjourned to the saloon to cultivate the acquaintance of a dozen Italian army officers going home from the conquest and occupation of Rhodes, and two nurses of the Italian Red Cross service, who had been doing vol- unteer work in the Greek hospitals. These latter told the most piteous tales of the terrible hunger of the Turkish wounded; their last request before taking the ansesthetic, and the first after the effects of the anaesthesia had passed, was "bread." The Turks, according to their report, were simply starv- ing on the campaign; an army goes on its belly; they simply could not fight. The nurses were evi- dently superior in birth and education to the men, spoke excellent English, and acted as our interpre- ters for a conversation with the senior officer, a major, who seemed to regard the war between Italy and Turkey as of tremendous import. They were 35 IN PORTS AFAR all happy over the taking of Tripoli, and they were willing to talk about that the whole evening. Bis- marck offered Tunis to Italy a generation ago, and the Italians have repented their failure to take it ever since. Now the Tripolitan war, entered upon to protect the Banca de Roma from loss by reason of large investments in oases land, has fired the national heart and coalesced the different factions — Italy has al\\*'ays been a land of faction — into something approaching nationality. The nurse re- ferred rather proudly to the failure of the pope to punish a bishop who had entered into the war on the popular side, and the major retorted that he "would never be made a cardinal." The women dismissed the Methodists as socially unimportant, either in America or Italy, but the major set great store by their patriotism, because Miss Italia Gari- baldi had given her adhesion to the despised sect. They scorned both Fairbanks and Roosevelt, but the major to my great enjoyment insisted that they were Masons, and not Methodists at all. The major was plainly less loyal to the Church, and wished to discuss the disendowment of certain convents and monasteries, which the women, while disdaining any interest in the recluse life, sniffed at as though they 36 TWO WEEKS WITH THE GREEK ARMY were listening to a discussion of the Fourth Dimen- sion or a plan to erect a signal station to attract the attention of the planet Mars. The major went further and stated it as an economic problem in Italy requiring solution as to how to restrict the number who should be permitted to join the mo- nastic orders; he wanted a larger navy, a better- paid army, and was free to criticise the administra- tion for its peace treaty with Turkey and the sup- port of the Austrian diplomatic attempt to keep Servia from the Adriatic, by Italy. Horace described the Romans of his day as "in- ferior to sires who were in turn inferior to theirs," and as "likely to leave an offspring more degraded than themselves." It seems utterly untrue of mod- ern Italy. Victor Immanuel, like a Caesar, sleeps under the open dome of the Pantheon ; King Hum- bert, when suddenly the plague broke out in Naples, sent the message to Borodino, where he had promised to attend a festa, "At Borodino they mjake merry, at Naples they die ; I go to Naples !" All their foreign secretaries have stood solidly by the Dreibund, and the influence of Germany has been steadying and commendable. Tripoli seems to us an entire economic loss, but nations, like men, 37 IN PORTS AFAR find their lives by losing them. Both Italy and Greece have a new spirit, and not since the division of the Eastern and Western empires have so many strong formative influences been felt in the Hellenic and Italian peninsulas. It is profitless to speculate on what might have happened; for example, if Alexander, of Alexan- dria, had not been elected to the presidency of the Nicene Council ; and if Hosius, of Cordova, had not given adhesion to the Athanasian party, and if the Arian heresy had gained the decision, what would have been the ultimate eff*ect? Would Christianity have gone forward by the same tremendous leaps, or would it have displayed the lack of passion and organizing power so characteristic of modern Arian- ism.^ Is there something apostolic and missionary in that insoluble mystery we call the Trinity, which vitalizes indiff*erence into zeal and gives initiative and radiation to missionary eff*ort ? And so we in- quire about the Council of Trent. Before the Ref- ormation, notably in the eighth, tenth, and twelfth centuries, the mediaeval Church was accompanied and confronted by tremendous reforming forces. Many concessions were wrung from the hierarchy by its enemies, and one can not but admire the 38 TWO WEEKS WITH THE GREEK ARMY graceful way the church, prior to the Reformation, yielded to the inevitable and was ready to acqui- esce in the spirit, "so the church has always taught." Want of accommodation to the spirit of the age produced the Reformation. The found- ing of the Order of the Jesuits, whose members speedily gained control of the Council, made the body intolerant instead of concessive; then certain secular rulers discerned the democratic elements which were inherent in the movements for ecclesi- astical freedom, and tacitly consented to the reform of the church to the standards of St. Francis. One is bewildered when he reflects on the unity and power of the ecclesia, had the spirit of accommoda- tion prevailed and the body remained undivided. Whatever else the Reformation accomplished or failed to accomplish, it gave what from that day we must call the Roman Church a critic and a rival. Both Roman Catholic and Protestant were recog- nized by the Treaty of Augsburg, and this recog- nition brought the doctrines and practices of each before the tribunal of public opinion. Henceforth a cardinal's cap for a boy of thirteen, and the in- dulgence tickets of Dr. Tetzel would be held up to the merciless criticism of a rival. The value of 39 IN PORTS AFAR such criticism is inestimable. In Spain, without this corrective influence the condition of the Church is less encouraging; but in Italy, pressed upon as Romanism is by a vigorous Protestantism, which is in hearty alliance with the civil rulers, the refor- mation is reforming. Then there is less hostility to the spirit of accommodation. The laity have been called into greater activity, and that very fact reduces ceremonies and ofBcialism to a minimum. In America, where the fires of denominational criti- cism are hottest, the Roman Church is really the strongest. In the same way the Italian Church, by reason of the enlarging consciousness of the nation, its political affiliation with Germany, the swarmis of tourists who treat the pope as one of the sights of Europe rather than as the Spiritually In- fallible, the break-away of France from even the semblance of adherence to the Holy Roman Eccle- sia, grows strong, and if the great ecclesiastical foundations which imperil the economic independ- ence of the kingdom can be dissolved or in some way restored to a proper share in the burdens of the kingdom, the Italian Church will once more be out in the world a disembodied spiritual existence, and the Reformation, though late in arriving, will 40 TWO WEEKS WITH THE GREEK ARMY have completed its work. The Italians, like the Greeks are in a constant flux coming and going to America; it is this which gives Protestantism such modifying power. For the first time in a decade for the fiscal year which closed with June, 1913, the Italians were equaled in the number of imimi- grants they sent to America by the Poles; they are tied now; hitherto they have led. In the last four years 900,000 Italians have arrived in Amer- ica, and 500,000 have gone home. A big world- education must be involved in this tremendous folk- wandering. That this affects the whole fabric of Church and State in Italy can not for one moment be doubted. Apart from the Spanish domination of the papal Curia, the merciless way in which certain personal acquaintances, modernists, have been compelled to see their books go into the Index Ewpurgatorius, and the economic problem referred to by the major, there is much to commend. All over the East we could not but feel that the Latin priests and sister- hoods, wherever we met them, were superior to the like orders of the Russian Church. They have the greatest religious earnestness; they refuse to have anything to do with the "civil contract" idea of 41 IN PORTS AFAR marriage, and the Church remains unquahfied in its opposition to divorce. It seems to me idle to raise an alarm about the increasing power of po- litical Romanism in America, just as it is unthink- able to doubt the patriotism of the American bishops. We venture the opinion that if the name of Woodrow Wilson were substituted for that of Queen Elizabeth in the bull of excommunication of 1570, that not one American bishop would support it. Likewise we feel certain that the Archbishop of Manila is pained beyond words at the foolish re- quests the young clerks in the office of the papal ablegate prefer to the Island government in his name, and is grieved to the heart at the lapses ac- cording to the standards of the English-Irish- American priests, of his mestizo and Tagalog clergy. No propagandism can turn the ages back- ward. They \^ill not preach an infallible Church by and by; fewer and fewer will choose patron saints ; less and less traditions of doubtful credence will find acceptance, and in the good time coming, with the election to the papal chair of some liberal cardinal the Church will come to be as compre- hensive as even Protestants desire. With musings like these we bade these new-found 42 TWO WEEKS WITH THE GREEK ARMY friends good-bye, took a final look at Corfu and a turn on the deck, and woke to find the Derna ap- proaching Brindisi, whence Pompey set out to battle with the pirates, to which Horace came on the "excursion," and where Frederick Barbarossa, on his crusade, built the great castle which is still associated with his name. Brindisi is the naval base of Italy, and the castle houses the clerks and draughtsmen associated with the department of naval construction. It is the port of departure for the English mails brought overland by fast trains from London and Paris. At Algiers and Patras we had gone on shore by tugs and lighters; here at Brindisi we part company with docks. Ex- cept at Singapore, where the work of dock con- struction has been undertaken, and at Calcutta, where, if the river is at the right level, you mvers every day on the tomb of Law- rence, and read on the simple slab: THE GREAT CIRCLE OF INDIA— II "Here lies Henry Lawrence, Who tried to do his duty. May God have mercy on his soul!" In Westminster Abbey, along with England's great sons, by reason of birth or favoritism, many mediocrities have obtained sepulture, but in the "acre" of the residency only heroes sleep. Every name is immortal, and it is no wonder that from many lands they bring back for burial with com- rades those who kept the banner of England float- ing there. Those hours were sacramental, and long into the night, when bishop and secretary were asleep, we read the book, rejoiced that such as they were at the helm in that dark land, and felt the glory in our souls that of that noble three thou- sand, nine hundred and ninety-two came through. It helps to "Assert eternal Providence, and justify the ways of God with men." The Isabella Thoburn College for women and the Lucknow College for men illustrate the final reliance that Christianity must put upon the slow processes of education and the enlargement of mind and spirit. Two of Bishop Robinson's daughters 125 IN PORTS AFAR have large responsibilities at Thoburn College, and that institution is worth a chapter in the expanding roll of faith begun in the Epistle to the Hebrews. After breakfast with the women we spoke in chapel on the superiority of Christianity to Mohammed- anism, with a dozen young women of Islamic birth listening attentively. Most of them have already discarded the veil, and study, dine, and recite with the regular classes. Like the leaping fires from the scaur of Lemnos to the watching roof in Ithaca to indicate that Troy had fallen, those two schools in Lucknow flash the story of coming dawn on the Hindoo hills. From Lucknow, through Allahabad, junction of the Jumna and Ganges, with time only for a brief survey of that important center, we rushed for Jubbulpore, so as to attend the Conference of the Central Provinces, in session there under the presi- dency of Bishop John W. Robinson. It had for us all the strange attraction of my first Conference, when Bishop Harris presided. Dr. Fowler spoke for missions, and preached in the opera house on Sun- day afternoon; when Hartzell, of the Freedmen's Aid ; William Taylor, Bishop of Africa to be, and McCabe, of the Church Extension Society, stirred 126 THE GREAT CIRCLE OF INDIA— II my slow pulses by their eloquence and fervor. At Jubbulpore five graduates of Iowa Wesleyan are at work. The Abbotts, husband and wife ; Brother Hermann, treasurer of the mission and head of the theological school; Mrs. Holland, Miss Poole, all cherish the blessed alma mater; and, gathered at one table, we sang the songs, gave the cheers, and once the bishop, who is from Iowa, joined us in the "yell." We lectured, preached the Conference sermon, led the devotions, spoke to the theological students, and had the honor (for so it is counted) of going to the barracks and addressing the sol- diers quartered there. We were guests at Mrs. Hearne's "Yellow House," where all the Conference breakfasted, lunched, and dined together; called at the home of the Abbotts and Hermanns, and at Miss Poole's invitation rode in a bullock cart to the Madan Mahal, some three miles from the Yel- low House. We started at 7.15 o'clock in the fore- noon, and reached the Woman's Foreign Mission- ary Society school in time for breakfast at 12.30 P. M. Time, five hours ; distance, six miles. But the rate was less than might be calculated, as the last half mile was covered on foot, and Mrs. Schell and Miss Poole spoke to a Brahmin vowed to silence, 127 IN PORTS AFAR who displayed himself in a red gown, and thus errors of speculation are imported into the mathe- matics of the journey. The invitation, the genial company, and the wide view were probably inr separable from the means of conveyance. But, then, it Is good to learn how the tide of life plodded forward In "our grandfathers' days." Wherever the graduates of a college gather and speak lov- ingly of its Faculty, Its history and hope, there is the college. So Iowa Wesleyan belongs to India. It recruits the membership of many Conferences at home, and at the same time gives two strong men and six remarkable women to the India for- eign field. Sons and daughters such as they for- ever praise her in the gates, and more than justify every dollar given to the equipment and endowment of the institution. The "mail" on all the India railroads Is a fast train, making almost double the speed of the "ex- press" and carrying only first and second class passengers. Baggage on the Indian railways must be checked at the depots from which the tickets are purchased. It happened that at Bombay, hav- ing bought our ticket from one station, and finding it more convenient to leave from another, the bag- 128 THE GREAT CIRCLE OF INDIA— II gageman would not check our trunks, and so trunks, bedding-roll, handbags, and suit-cases were taken into the compartments all over India. Steamer trunks such as ours were all shoved under the seat, upon which you make up your bed for the night's ride. We had a compartment to ourselves on the "mail" from Jubbulpore to Moghal Serai, the main line station for Benares. We were early at the bathing ghats. It was a feast day, which brought out an unusual crowd, and various person- ages estimated that two hundred and fifty thousand people bathed in the Ganges that morning. Some of the most dreadfully indecent temples in India are adjacent to the Ganges at Benares, and on that morning they were crowded. A heap of bodies to be burned later that morning recall Edwin Ar- nold's lines: "For all the tears of all the eyes Have room in Gunga's bed, And all the sorrow is gone to-morrow, When the white flames have fed:" the thousands wading into the water, scooping it in their hands and swallowing the filthy stuff ; other thousands polishing their brass water-jars, mean- while occasional carcasses of dead animals, festering 9 129 IN PORTS AFAR and bloated, drifting down the river, and the hun- dreds of boats, with upper decks for sightseers, made such a scene as is not obtainable anywhere else on the planet, and which few would care to see again. The Monkey Temple is as despicable, filthy, and vile as the Kalighat at Calcutta, though both white and black goats are offered at Benares. It was after such a day as this that Bishop Mc- Dowell is reported to have said to Mrs. McDowell, president of the Woman's Foreign Missionary So- ciety: "After this we shall never have another happy day." The indecencies of the temples, the open loathesomeness of heathenism, and the igno- rance, superstition, and fanaticism of the surging throngs gave me a depression from which it took me weeks to recover. Benares ought to be labeled like the gates of Dante's "Inferno," "AU hope abandon, ye, who enter here." After the tour of Benares, the human body we saw drifting with the tide in the river at Calcutta, shoved off from some burning ghat in the absence of the mourners, so as to save the fuel for its in- cineration, was rather less shocking. The "mail" whisked us from Benares to Calcutta 130 THE GREAT CIRCLE OF INDIA— II in fifteen hours. A high-caste Hindoo shared the compartment with us for some hours. He had been educated at Cambridge, spoke excellent Eng- lish, and was as much interested in America as we were in India. We discoursed together about Be- nares, and he expressed great interest in the at- tempts of the Brahm-Somaj to reform Hindooism. As in our conversation we tended toward mutual frankness we put to him the statement of the hadji that Western science had put the war ma- terials into the hands of the Christian powers. Evi- dently he had often discussed the proposition be- fore, for he quietly replied that it was "not the mili- tary power of the Occident that was to be feared, but the efficiency of the Western syllogism." The Hindoo is addicted to what he labels "absolute thought," and bases his syllogism on some affirma- tion having general acceptance, or on some specu- lation credited to a "deity" or "divinity." The Occidentalist long examines his basic statement by observation before he risks an induction from it. This is what the Hindoo meant by his phrase, the "efficiency of syllogism." This habit of mind is the only corrective for superstition abroad or at home, and our faith, whether hay, wood, stubble, 131 IN PORTS AFAR or gold, is tried as by its fire, and the days shall declare of what sort it is. If universal experience could be accumulated and tabulated, it would settle the matter; but we lack the proper powers to so accumulate and tabulate. So long as Dalton, be- cause he is color-blind, declares there are only two primary colors in the spectrum, all he is able to see, and Sir William Herschel says there are three, because he can see them, third parties interrogate our powers of observation. At any rate it is cer- tain we exercise these powers, if we possess them, under limitations that make them practically value- less, and we must remain hesitant about the basis of our syllogism, which it most concerns us to know. But it is not quite so serious as it appears, for it is heart, and not thought, that furnishes the dy- namics of life. It seemed like the coming of some longed-for Sabbath to a weary laborer to reach the Lee Me- morial Home, Wellington Square, Calcutta; great it was to meet David Lee, beloved in the gospel! to sit at their board, kneel with them in their family devotions, and ride about with them, to find the spot of the Black Hole tragedy, and in their company to see the Heber Memorial, the frown- 132 THE GREAT CIRCLE OF INDIA— II ing fortifications, the botanical gardens, with its rare orchids and famous banyan tree, and watch the gyrations of the drum major in the Black Watch regiment band, as they gave concerts in the esplanade. One boy was left to them, a baby in his mother's arms at the time of the Darjeeling dis- aster, which in an hour left the Lees desolate and enriched that heathen city with the Lee Memorial Home. Another son has since come to heal their loneliness. On our part we renewed a fellowship exceedingly precious, which time can not sunder. We pressed northward so as to spend the Sab- bath in Darjeeling. In the manse of the Union Church, Rev. Joseph Culshaw, editor of the India Witness, greeted us, took us to the government house, introduced us to the civil dignitaries already arriving to spend the hot months in that famous mountain resort, pointed out the path of that cloud- burst that carried the Lee family away, and in the school with Miss Knowles and in the church on Sunday we felt that kindling of faith and friend- ship, and found the sure medicant for the souls of those who have looked over the wall into per- dition and staggered back on heaven's side. All mountain heights are difficult of ascent, but once 133 IN PORTS AFAR ascended, unless storms intervene, the sight is glo- rious. At Darjeeling we looked up to the roof of the world. For two hundred and fifty miles the massive Himalayas unrolled their splendors before our mortal eyes, flashing back with their white bosoms the glory of the Eternal. The yawning abysses beneath filled with clouds seemed to roll and swell like some vast sea, and the pure, impec- cable, snowy vastness of Kinchin junga was de- clarative of holiness and God. Up on a windswept height we plucked a prayer which some poor soul, feeling after God, had tied to a tree, and, folding it with some flowers from Gethsemane, we shall keep it as a mute witness that once we brought the prayer of a sorrowing heart to Him who sorrowed there. The Darjeeling tea plantations, clustering and clinging on every square foot of cultivable soil, pro- duce the rarest tea of the world's great farm, and add the charm of green things growing. Grown in that lofty altitude, the tea, perhaps like character, ripened close to the sky, adds a nameless flavor not duplicated by that grown on lower ground. Back in Calcutta, we preached for Mr. Wark in the First Church, one of the first five or six leading Churches of the connection. That Kansan is every 134 THE GREAT CIRCLE OF INDIA— II inch a man, and fewer men with larger life experi- ence is the lesson of his quick adjustment to that international parish. Miss Maxey is the elect lady who directs the affairs of the Deaconess Home. It was so good to find that little island of hope and calm in "the City of the Dreadful Night." We went on a night expedition with Miss Reeve, of the Lee Home, to a crowded section, where, with a stereopticon, to a court full of eager-faced natives she told the story of the Pilgrim's Progress. Three things clamor to get said before we con- clude this chapter. They have long been discussed in the private debating society of my judgment, and therefore we do not need to discuss them here, but simply enumerate them. First, the Missionary Society should in some way organize the special gifts department and send for- ward the appeals from the New York office, and not burden the district superintendents of India with the support as well as the selection and admin- istration of the native workers. The plan of the Woman's Foreign Missionary Society works ad- mirably. This is no stricture upon missions like that of David Lee, now, as always, on the William Taylor plan of self-support. 135 IN PORTS AFAR Second, some better plan of selecting mission- aries and of eliminating inefficient men from the field must be devised. Only two men we met in our work abroad would not have our welcome were we, as once, the head of a district; but when the two approximate two-fifths of the recruits to the force of the field in a single year, they mark an administrative failure. And third, one or two of the missionary bishops for India ought to be commissioned by some quasi authority for properly financing the India situa- tion. The North and Northwest India Conferences require an annual increase of $10,000 for the next five years. The debts of the Bombay properties, as well as those elsewhere, must be paid; that in- dustrial school of Mr. Bancroft enlarged for thou- sands instead of fifties. Following the Thoburn custom, which has become practically a precedent, one or two of those bishops should face the financial stone wall in America, not India. It is to be a long campaign, and like all kings going to war, we must count the cost and finance the campaign, not by three-per-cent cuts on the whole field, but by some animating consecration that will increase the sup- port of the gospel extension in the Indo-peninsula. 136 Chapter VIII HALF WAY /CALCUTTA, like New Orleans, is both sea- ^^ port and river-port. The sailings are early in the day, so that the ship may reach the mouth of the Hughli, full of shifting bars and dangerous currents, before dark. We looked our last on the Eden Gardens, Fort William, the Hastings Bridge, and the Engineering College, and had final view of the botanical gardens founded in 1786. Ac- cording to Sir Joseph Hooker, they have contrib- uted more useful and ornamental tropical plants to public and private gardens than any other es- tablishment before or since. The "tea" industry of Northern India had its origin in the brain of one of its curators. There was more for India in his thought than in those "sublime instincts of an ancient people" about which congressmen talk so glibly. The first problem of life is food ; therefore the bread question presses. Correlated to it in 137 IN PORTS AFAR India, as elsewhere, is the labor question. The labor markets of the world are closed to them be- cause of their ancestral precedence code. You can not raise food enough to feed India with a crooked stick, nor harvest it with a reaping-hook, nor can you give a man work who will only work with men of a certain caste. It is good to think of the full dinner-pail that "tea" has brought to many men who even yet never have any food left after a meal. The Ellenga, of the British India Line, on which we sailed, is one of a large fleet of antiquated ships, making up in number what they lack in quality. Kipling long ago labeled the line as "The Mutton Mail,'.' because it carries sheep and correspondence to Rangoon. Sure enough the sheep were "shooed" aboard in droves, and the odor stayed with us to Singapore. There were fully two hundred black goats, to be sacrificed to Kali, who dearly loves "black sheep." The British India is the most pros- perous shipping corporation in the East. The ships are operated for profit, not for comfort. Like the ice-plant in our town, the corporation needs healthy competition. But if you are bound for Rangoon and the Shwe Dagon, pay up and haggle not. 138 HALF WAY The Hughli pilot leads a hard life, is full of strange stories, and he of the Ellenga knew all about Mark Twain, once pilot on the Mississippi. The pilot's pay is on a par with that of a country school teacher in Iowa, and he gets it for sending along a two-thousand-ton ship down the worst river in the world, with five or six hundred people aboard, at eight miles an hour, and then killing time in the estuary on a malodorous tug until he finds another ship in need of a pilot up-stream. The query rises. Could Clemens have become Mark Twain if bom on the banks of the Hughli.'^ We left the pilot at Sandheads, and all India dropped out of sight. India and the story of how it was won is the romance of the English Govern- ment, and the tragedy of how nearly it was lost in the Mutiny blanches the lips of brave men yet. Its thousand years of religious feud between Moham- medan and Hindoo, the venomous jungle of its race- hatreds and fierce ancestral distinctions make its retention a daily conquest. There is the Sphinx of Egypt looming vast and placid above the Nile desert, and the Muscovy monster crushing with one paw the Finns and leering at Constantinople: but India is the Sphinx of the Plain. Yearly the work 139 IN PORTS AFAR of pushing, wheedling, and browbeating its natives into good hving goes forward: 'The cry of hosts ye humor, Ah! slowly toward the light; — Why brought ye us from bondage, Our loved Egyptian night?'* In "Take up the White Man's Burden," KipHng has caught the tidal mood of colonizing mankind now swelling in the tropics. There is much mawkish sentiment in London and Washington, but none of it discoverable in those viceroys, governors, com- missioners, residents, colonels, captains, and sub- alterns on duty in India; nor do they worry the London offices with long disquisitions on the riotous, degenerate, murderous life to which they are slowly putting an end. They concern themselves little with contemporary opinion, and leave their final appeal by deeds to posterity. The "big brass gen- erals" and the quiet, inglorious strong men, whom Kipling so nobly celebrates, are at their posts, as of old, tirelessly watching. The Mutiny put them "on guard" every hour. They are doing the eter- nal thing in a more or less eternal way, quite in contrast with our program in Mexico, where the best we can say to Americans is, "Pack up your 140 HALF WAY railroads, factories, coffee, sugar, and rubber plan- tations and come home." That seems like doing the contemporary thing in a contemporary way. It is idealism flying in panic and cringing ob- sequiously to Terror. And we are also supposed to be talking about coming home from the Phil- ippines ; the men who went to India may be trusted to stay there. Somewhere out in the crushed-sapphire colored water on the second day, between chota-hazra and "breakfast" we crossed the ninety-second parallel, thus completing in terms of longitude half way round from the Iowa farms to the college once more. Half way in miles was beyond Singapore, see-saw- ing, as we did, up to Hong Kong, down to Manila, and back again. Thus we came upon the threshold of the Farthest East. The Ellenga reached Rangoon Monday morn- ing of Passion Week. There was a "bar" to cross, for which the precise time of tide had to be com- puted and a new pilot taken on. We raced by the rice-ships and sampans of all styles and ages, and inferior only in smells to those of Canton. The Rangoon, one of the mouths of the Irawaddy, is a low-banked, muddy, unimpressive stream, and the 141 IN PORTS AFAR trip up the Ocalawaha, in Florida, exceeds in di- version anything to be obtained by riding up or down the Irawaddy. The British India ships he in port until Thursday, so there is ample time to go by rail to the capital, **0n the road to Mandelay, Where the flying fishes play. And the sun comes up like thunder, Outer China 'crost the bay," and come down by the river boat. Disappointment increases as to the square of the number of the tourists who take the trip. We set out under the direction of C. W. Sever- ance to take a census of the Buddhas in Rangoon. The first temple yielded 168, and with cheerful confidence in our ability to reach one thousand, we next tackled the Shwe Dagon, upheaving itself in the sun, girt with a scaffolding of bamboo poles, so that the Burmese may acquire merit by regilding its wonderful dome, neither Moslem nor Hindoo in type. When our total in that temple had reached 1,500, with many nooks and chapels still to be enumerated, we quit. We rely for success upon patience and persistence, but for once they failed us. Including those awaiting purchase in the 142 HALF WAY art stores, we should estirriate that at least four thousand images of Buddha are to be found in Rangoon. We have "flag day" and "carnation day," and the English have "primrose day," but "Buddha day" is all the year round in Burmah. The new railroad carries an increasing number of tourists up "the river of the lost footsteps," but the swarms it brings down to the temple of the great god of Idleness there on the hill, surrounded by the English cantonment, constitutes a "yellow peril." The "land-grabbing" English are over lords to gods many, but none are more unique and more economically paralyzing than the god with his fifteen hundred Buddhas of the Shwe Dagon. That high place, winking its interrogation to the eastern sun, is the best explanation of why the English came and will likely stay. We attended the Passion Week services, spent delightful mornings in the gardens, shops, and tem- ples; visited the school, the Baptist Publishing House, and were vaccinated afresh in the municipal clinic. We went to Aloon and saw the huge ele- phants haul the great teak logs from the river's edge, where they had been rafted at high tide, and watched them "salaam" for us at the pick of the 143 IN PORTS AFAR Mahout ; the color, the women unveiled, the markets, the jail, the "Reclining Buddha," equal in impres- siveness to the one at Kamakura, are sights worth a year of languid Southern Europe. But most of all the Severance house, in Lancaster Road; the school of the sisterhood, next to it; the Buddhist mendicants, as they make their rounds begging for rice; the bread-fruit hanging on the trees, brings staccato to my thoughts if it is repressed in ex- pression. The Germans train all the young men for the army; in Burmah all the young men are educated for the priesthood. Plague and cholera persist the year round, and not merely the igno- rance, but the indifference of the comfortable folks at home to all that distant day's work, impresses me with its injustice and stupidity. For example, the General Conference has authorized Foreign mis- sionaries. Home missionaries, Ep worth League mis- sionaries, self-supporting missionaries, and Wom- an's Foreign missionaries. Let us hope that the de- voted household in Lancaster Road and the women adjacent, with all similar mission compounds, hemmed in by plague, cholera, smallpox of the black, deadly type, needing the united sympathy and increased support of the Church at home, can 144 HALF WAY count on a refusal of the General Conference to a further division of responsibility in missionary ad- ministration. Women with "bound feet" watched our landing from the lighter at Penang on Easter morning. It is the island of Paul and Virginia. Hundreds of 'rikisha men stood ready to whisk us away to church or to the falls and temples five miles away. We went to the FitzGerald Memorial Church; roomy interior, handsome exterior; convenient to the Anglo-Chinese school, and reached by roads runixing on the Parabola. The Easter sermon there was like having again the holy sacrament from the hands of that great bishop of the ecclesia. After lunch at the Anglo-Chinese school. Dr. Pykett, one of the surpassing Englishmen, who has thrown himself with such energy and success into our work in the Straits Settlements, drove us to Cornelia FitzGerald's grave. She sleeps in a spot surrounded by such wild beauty as no other country could show, and contiguous to the spacious gardens. On Easter Day in such environment — who that has the Easter hope could repress the upspringing foun- tains of thanksgiving.^ St. Paul said, "The time of my departure is at hand," meaning either the 10 145 IN PORTS AFAR launching or the sailing of the Immortal Personal- ity. Whichever meaning may be imported into the phrase, the FitzGeralds were ready for decessus. "Our people die well." Let us more frequently make protest against the arrogance of science, which, as dogmatic as mediaeval theology, has re- vived the tenet of the Sadducees, "Who say there is no resurrection." In recent years science has properly asserted its theories against dogmatic theology, but there has been over-assertion as well. The public now find that they have only exchanged one priesthood for another, and we are now asked to confirm that nothing which can not be weighed and measured shall be allowed to possess validity. Sir Oliver Lodge has just differentiated the soul from its material embodiment as "the constant and identical personality running through one's expe- riences," and ranging from the discussion of its existence here to its continuity hereafter, and to the question of its immortality. Quietly, moder- ately, and firmly he has made his profession of faith in the persistence of personality beyond bodily death, of which and the broad truths of re- ligion he has been convinced by strict evidence. Doubtless his conclusions will be challenged, but 146 The Bum Palm. HALF WAY none will deny the force of his protests against the negations of science — pure dogmatism, though couched in the negative — or the validity of his ap- peal to the primal instincts and intimations of men in all ages and all lands. We took the tram the next day to an ancient "temple." We foUow^ed for miles along the road, fringed with native houses and shadowed by ever- lasting cocoanut palms. The heat was heavy with the reek of vegetation and the smell of earth after heavy rains. Birds whistled, thunders muttered in the hills, and the breath came heavy and vaporous, like that in a Turkish bath. It was like the land of the "lotus eaters." "And in the afternoon they came unto a land In which it seemed always afternoon." We climbed the long hill, fed the sacred fish, noted the guardian Gorgons, and penetrated to the re- cesses of the main pagoda. We saw a priest who conforms to the "Face" which Kipling describes; "the chin, jowl, lips, and neck were modeled faith- fully on the lines of the Roman empresses — the lolloping, walloping women that Swinburne sings about, and that we sometimes see pictures of. 147 IN PORTS AFAR Above this gross perfection of form came the Mon- goloid nose, narrow forehead, and flaring pigs'- eyes." His prototype was in Jerusalem on the day of the crucifixion, and he is a fit keeper "for a wilderness of clay dolls or a menagerie of jointed tigers." Singapore is Penang over again, and besides has many things to delight the eye. Its hostelries are famous, as such world-end locations are certain to become. But for us the Book Store and the Anglo-Chinese school are worth all the time and study a globe-trotter can give to them. Oldham Hall, named for the Rupert of the Missionary Sec- retariat, showed us the one challenge to democracy with its correlate equality which we found any- where in the missionary world. They provide a first and second-class "mess" for the boys who re- side there. It is made necessary by the crowds that threaten utterly to swamp our present inadequate facilities. There are 1,400 boys and men, segre- gated — esteeming Christianity to be the English language, physics, chemistry, biology, that is. Western science and democracy. Roberts College is the guarantor of Balkan freedom; those Anglo- Chinese schools of Penang and Singapore are the 148 HALF WAY pledge and prophecy of a Chinese Repubhc. Six days we roamed about the quaint city, visited, as everywhere, the American Consulate, talked poli- tics, and found in that gateway of the world men of consequence, who sit in social, financial, and gov- ernmental high places, talking with approval and intelligence of teaching, medical, and industrial missions. Had England given one-tenth the help to China that she has given to India, she would at this hour be the mistress of all lands and im- pregnable in the affections of a race yet to domi- nate the Orient. The Nile, a large intermediate ship of the Pen- insular & Oriental Line, deeply loaded and well appointed, eighth of our circumnavigating fleet, bore us to Hong Kong. The Sunday on board was as quiet and orderly as any ever kept in a New England village. One man, the commander, reverent, thoughtful, so impressed the passengers that those who might otherwise have been tempted to thoughtlessness and irreverence deported them- selves like they would on a holy day at home. The "service" read by the commander lasted just twenty minutes. The hymns, in which every one joined; the prayers, and the Scriptures, all regularly ap- 149 IN PORTS AFAR pointed for the day, were helpful, and the collec- tion for the Seaman's Orphanage was generous indeed. The English ships do the Sunday service quite to our satisfaction. The Nile steamed into Hong Kong through a multiplicity of islets and deeply indented shores, sometimes running down to the sea in little sandy coves, and at other times falling sheer in a cliff hanging above sea-worn caves, where the boom of the surf could be heard. The harbor is a world in itself; big liners at anchor, battleships, lines of junks, wallowing coal hulks, and thousands of sam- pans between miles of docks. We saw with rap- turous eyes a gunboat and a transport flying the American flag, and had our sympathy excited by a Chinese river steamer that had been looted by pirates and was flying a fl^g of distress. The "Peak," reached by an inclined tram, hangs frowningly above, dotted with green, and there is nothing so easily accessible in this wide world that is so wild and wonderful as the outlook from its top with its fifty miles of sky, and the fortress with its twelve-inch guns — and, they say, without men to fight them. But that is probably some English civilian trembling. Hong Kong is a 150 HALF WAY starting-point for Macao and Canton, and in all it detained us a week. Macao makes one think of Hell's Half Acre up in Yellowstone Park, save that the seething caldron is made up of gamblers and prostitutes. The ninety miles to Canton is one continual overhauling and passing of screw steam- ers, pig boats, junks, and ducking sampans. Lit- erally hundreds of houseboats, many of them sculled by women, with babies lashed to their backs, crowded about our steamer to take off some pas- senger or some package of freight. The mere mob, fighting for their places about the ship, was terrifying. But the city itself, through which tourists are borne in sedan-chairs by streets so nar- row that one can often touch both sides, is in- describable. The waves of yellow faces; the tier on tier of signs, red, yellow, black, and white; the pigs squealing as they were slaughtered ; the brazen dragons, the stench, the feathered jewelry shops, and the inlaid workers, baffled description. Only once, and that on Chicago Day, in 1893, at the World's Fair, were we caught in such a crowd. The Temple of the Five Hundred Genii, where some Jesuit fathers and Marco Polo appear in the gallery; the ancestral temple, the water clock, the 151 IN PORTS AFAR potter's field, where the executions take place; the Prison of Horrors, where in a Chinese Eden musee men are hacked, sliced, fried, and grilled; the city walls, where on the grass-grown top you may see rusty English guns spiked and abandoned; the myriads of dead in the cemetery, and a five-story pagoda are all in the itinerary, which goes on hour after hour until you are tired and disgusted, and remember the lines of the old Watts hymn, "Wallow until your lives be through; Satan's god children takes your due." There is one thing to be thankful for, and that is that there are neither dogs nor horses to be seen. Well it is for Psi, the Scotch collie which lives at our house, and for the handsome roadster that our district superintendent drives, that both were bred in Iowa. Dore ought to have seen Canton before he illustrated the "Inferno.'' The Presbyterian mission at Shek-Lung is a little paradise on the edge of Canton ; all the missions are oases in that desert of life. Yet any Chinese mis- sion makes one think of a small rowboat out on the Atlantic within hailing distance of the Titanic five minutes after she went down. At Hong Kong we 152 HALF WAY consorted with the Germans. We lodged at the Berhn FoundUngs' Home, Lutheran, whose habit- ants persist in the simple homely virtues which so commend their doctrines and their nationality. It was so restful after being carried in chairs, hurried along in 'rikishas, and chasing about in trams, to sit at the table after dinner and listen while the pastor read the evening lesson, and then with hymn and prayer to "Put out each feverish light" of those garish days. The Zafiro, sl trim little two-thousand-ton ship, with no more roll nor toss than a North River ferry boat, carried us safely to Manila. We passed Corregidor just at dawn and had a wide, long look at the bay, which already bulks so large in Ameri- can history, while the east was empurpling with the new day. Our daughter and other friends met us at the pier with only such welcome as they can give. Little could any of us have dreamed when we first heard the news of Dewey's exploit that in less than fifteen years we should be greeting each other in sight of Cavite and admiring together the corn growing in the field of insurrecto Agui- naldo. 153 Chapter IX THE GREAT AMERICAN ADVENTURE fTHHE bombardment of Alexandria by the Eng- -■- lish, the taking over of Tunis by the French, the present German emperor's activity in acquiring African territory, the annexation of Tripoli by Italy, and the American purchase and occupation of the Philippines belong to the catalogue of re- cent events involving the colonizing nations, all located in the temperate zone, in the government of tropical countries. The colonial activity of England and France antedates by a century these present-day enterprises, but with the English oc- cupation of Egypt the modem movement in colo- nization, essentially scientific in method and eco- nomic in purpose, begins. We have already alluded to the fact that Glad- stone had his hand forced in the Egyptian matter. In a similar way the nation forced McKinley's hand and thrust this insular administration upon him. It is easy to prophesy after an event, and 154 THE GREAT AMERICAN ADVENTURE grow wise about what should have been done. "Dewey should have sailed away!" But no one thought of that, or would have consented to it on May 2, 1898. "McKinley should not have paid $20,000,000 for them, according to the Treaty of Paris!" But it was McKinley, not our interlocu- tor, whom the people had elected to approve the negotiations. "Treat them as we did Cuba !" "Get a guarantee of their independence from the Great Powers;" "Give them to Japan," and so on, in- cluding every plan except the one we are now actually following. McKinley, like Gladstone, rec- ognized the National impulse. He understood the Nation, "whose dull voice is thunder And was the key beneath its finger pressed." Other Presidents have felt this imperative of public opinion. "The soul is where it acts," says Lotze; and Thomas Jefferson, contrary to all his own po- litical maxims, annexing Louisiana, was the soul of a larger country than any of which the beard- less colonels and young sages who won the Revo- lution ever dreamed. Grover Cleveland lacked imagination and missed his way when he hauled down the flag in Hawaii. The instinct of the 155 IN PORTS AFAR people judged It better than Mr. Cleveland, with all his sterling integrity. The Panama Canal zone is another case in point. President Roosevelt understood the Nation, and the Nation felt in him a response to its own com- manding purpose. The Hindoo syllogism is aca- demic: that of Occidental life is efficient. Some American Hindoos do not seem to know that Mr. Roosevelt would have been anathema in the public mind had he not gone forward: that the claims of Colombia for reimbursem'ent have less validity than those of Queen Liliuokalani, for she wrote ^^Aloha Oe," and that the Nation of America aided and ap- proved the purchase of the canal strip, and will praise the ex-President for it "world without end." The cuckoo is an anomaly in the bird-world. By some strange instinct it foregoes the labor of other birds in nesting and feeding, lays its eggs in alien nests, and entrusts the hatching of the foundling eggs and the rearing of the young to the owners of the nests it has taken. No one has come for- ward to explain how such an instinct is developed, nor do we know why other birds nest the eggs, and welcome and feed the intruders. Now, are we prepared to say that England, France, Germany, 156 THE GREAT AMERICAN ADVENTURE Italy, and the United States are cuckoos? and that Algiers, Egypt, China, India, and the Phihppines are alien nests, which these nations have appro- priated? The program of the Philippine commissioners is anything but cuckoo-like. They began by clean- ing up the Islands. Like the Panama Canal strip, the Islands had to be disinfected, vaccinated, and rendered immune against cholera and bubonic plague. Herein the United States has attempted more, and improved upon all that England or France has done. In 1902 there were 4,662 cases of cholera in Manila alone, with 3,560 deaths. The provinces had that same year 120,996 cases ; 77,972 deaths resulting therefrom. In 1911 Manila had one case of cholera, with death resulting, and 226 cases in the provinces, with 182 deaths. The cuckoo, if it is a cuckoo, brings some strange se- curity to the Philippine Islands' nest. Bubonic plague plays a continuous performance in all the great cities of the Orient. Human nature being as it is, and with such neighbors, Manila can not hope to entirely escape, but the quarantine, health inspection, and rigid sanitary regulations are so efficient that only sporadic cases of the plague now 157 IN PORTS AFAR occur. Hong Kong furnishes more plague in a month than Manila in a year. The economic development of the Islands is greatly dependent upon the increase of caribou and the introduction of cattle and animal labor. The rmderpest is as desolating to cattle as cholera and plague to the natives, and the fight the Gov- ernment makes against rinderpest is second only to that which it makes to save human life. It is common to meet some captain or lieutenant with a detail of constabulary coming or going to a rinderpest-mio^ci^di district, where, by the latest and most approved veterinary treatment, they save a few animals, isolate the scourge, and at times al- together stamp it out. Since 1907 the railroad mileage has increased from 122 to 455. The civilizing force of a rail- road is less appreciated, perhaps, in the United States than almost anywhere else. Our struggle for the control of passenger rates and freight tar- iffs, and against railroad, legislative, and judicial influence has obscured the dependence which eco- nomic and social progress must place on transpor- tation. One dollar spent on a railroad is worth a hundred invested in army equipment, and the 333 158 THE GREAT AMERICAN ADVENTURE additional miles oi railway are worth a hundred thousand rifles and millions spent on military oper- ations. Then add the public buildings, artesian wells, irrigation projects, and macadam roads that to the amount of SjSSS,^!^ pesos have been built out of the public revenues last year; then figure as much spent for the same purpose the year be- fore, and estimate that as much will be so expended the coming year, and the next; add the increased production of sugar, rice, hemp, and tobacco; the introduction of corn-growing, the diversifying of the crops, scientific coinage, a just levy of taxes and their honest expenditure, and a dozen other specifications which help toward economic inde- pendence, before you cry "Cuckoo." The educational program is unique in, that it purposes to reform the archaic and almost barbaric amusements of the whole people. Loungers about the railway depots carry game cocks under their arms, which suggest cock-fighting as the national game of the Tagalogs. Baseball has taken its place, and everybody, from the governor-general down, except a few nonconforming clergymen, play ball. They encourage labor and thrift by trade schools run as commercial shops; they have 159 IN PORTS AFAR opened up all the known vocational opportunities to the new generation. They have searched out native materials and made them available for indus- trial use, so that bamboo, Buri palm, Nipa and Abaca or Manila hemp are many times more com- mercially important than before the public schools taught their manufacturing possibilities. The Coast Guard service provides a great nautical school, and the constabulary gives opportunity for a military education, which opens rapid preferment ta those who are diligent and efficient. In a word, the Philippine schools provide a gainful occupation and an English education to every boy, and nurse's training, basketry, hat-making, cloth-weaving, do- mestic science, designing, and embroidery for every girl. The youth of the Government and the ardor of the American occupation is sure to impress the visitor. The vice-governor-general, also secretary of education, the director of education, his first and second assistants, are all men from the universities of the Central West, young, exhuberantly hopeful, with faces full of energy and free from cynicism. It is men of their type who maintain civil order, control the diseases of the climate, and attempt 160 THE GREAT AMERICAN ADVENTURE "by slow prudence to make mild A rugged people, and through soft degrees Subdue them to the useful and the good," and in the sixteen years since the Battle of Manila Bay have put the Islanders far on their way to self-respect, self-support, and self-control. It should not appeal to the public to say that all this is done without expense to the American tax- payer, but such is the case. Except for the regi- ments that are quartered in the Philippines, and the warships on station or in dry dock there, no expense attaches to the occupation. The Govern- ment might better quarter its troops at the Manila Camp McKinley, or at the Baguio Camp John Hay, than at many of the 152 army posts where it now scatters them. The same is true of the navy. Without expense to ourselves, by special tariffs, we have aided the Islanders, but except for the initial cost and the expense of suppressing the Aguinaldo insurrection, of actual outlay nothing. It is a reproach to the American Churches that great schools like the Anglo-Chinese school at Penang and the one of similar name at Singapore should be compelled to support themselves; so it seems to dampen enthusiasm to learn that in all n 161 IN PORTS AFAR this the American taxpayer has no part. But the American Nation has furnished poHtical and social stabiHty and a group of men with great adminis- trative capacity, who have fertihzed by their pa- tience, accuracy, and enthusiasm thousands of Tagalogs, who in the passing of the years will keep up to the standards of capacity and integrity they have set. The upper-class Tagalog, usually, or often at least, a mestizo, does not understand the American. He has been reared in a practice of government where the official classes exploit the rank and file. Since Legazpi occupied Manila, in 1571, the repre- sentatives of the old Spanish families have grown rich in office. That is what office means to them — a chance to enrich themselves at public expense. It is in the blood, and has been as long as they have been developing their facial angle. Aguinaldo fail- ing in insurrection, grew rich in land and pesos by the failure. No one reproaches him for it ; it was expected; anything else would have been in- comprehensible. That members of the Philippine commission should govern without graft and treat public office as a public trust excites their infidelity. Nor can they explain why a great, wise, and be- 162 THE GREAT AMERICAN ADVENTURE neficent Government does not punish their frequent lapses from loyalty; they think it some weakness in the government. Our long forbearance while they steal rifles, shoot down soldiers, and run amuck under their law of "jura mentado," they count inability on our part to make reprisals. The}^ misunderstand the reasons for granting a Philippine Assembly even now, and they misunder- stood the long sufferance of the American Congress and the American people, while peonage and slav- ery went on for lack of penal clauses giving validity to the Fourteenth Amendment to the Con- stitution. They think that American citizens be- lieve that their honor would suffer if penal clauses were enacted for punishing such criminals. The new Administration deserves credit for the prompt- ness with which the Assembly enacted the new laws upon the arrival of the new governor-general. But the simple-hearted Igorrote and Ifagao seem to appreciate our sincerity, and perhaps just as the birds whose nests are stolen tolerate the cuckoo- eggs, so in some blind way these dependent heathen better estimate our motives than the caciques of mixed blood, and the hereditary disposition to graft and official exploitation. 163 IN PORTS AFAR There are now three distinct forces in the Phil- ippines making for civilization ; first is the Govern- ment, which is doing the work of the teaching mis- sionary, the medical missionary, with the powers of the policeman added. Second or third, for the order is not determinative, should be mentioned the Catholic archbishop. Dr. Harty, formerly of St. Louis. Six or eight American priests followed him to the field. The archbishop looks like the typical American with Irish forbears; face and bearing mark him as well fitted to be the religious leader of 7,000,000 Filipinos, nominally Christian, at least. In his person and character he has done much to recover influence and sympathy for the Roman Church. Granted that he is of the Farley- Falconio group of churchmen, is surrounded by Spanish clerics, who utter the most absurd opinions and prefer ungrantable requests in the name of a papal delegate, he yet seems the diplomatic equal of Archbishop Ireland, and on the spiritual level of the present Pope Pius X. The Protestant mis- sionaries in the Islands are, to compare them to army chaplains, few in number, much ordered about by colonels and generals, and yet by virtue of character and conduct of great consequence to 164 THE GREAT AMERICAN ADVENTURE armies and nations. The Government's part is to educate and maintain health and order. The archbishop's part is to conform the Roman CathoHc Church to the fact of a modern American Govern- ment, and with the help of American priests reform the native priesthood from the mediaeval Spanish to the English-Irish-American standard. The Protestant part is to set a standard of temperance, purity, Sabbath-observance; to build dormitories for men and women in connection with all the nor- mal and provincial high schools, and thus exemplify the decent, self-respecting life which is the one basis for American citizenship. They may as they will serve as chaplains extraordinary to army, navy, civil service employees, and historic Church, warn- ing, encouraging, and bringing to the broad glare of publicity lapses from the integrity and broad- mindedness which America expects of all its indi- viduals and institutions, besides uttering that evan- gelistic message which men of good will have sounded from the beginning. Congress can confer anarchy; independence is beyond its power at the present writing. By some premature action, just as the establishing of the Philippine Assembly with its present powers was 165 IN PORTS AFAR premature, Congress may aid to establish two self- styled "republics," one terrorized by the Moros and Visayans, the other certifying to the exploitation of diverse peoples to the number of 8,000,000 by a few hundred Tagalogs, to whom, because they understand either English or Spanish, the Govern- ment perforce must be committed. "One free people can not govern another," said James An- thony Froude; but that Is not saying that they may not co-operate with each other, that they may not federate their forces for protection, for mutual advantage, and for conservation and economy of resources. The United States are free and self- governing, If they are not independent. Independence is a state of civilization to be ac- quired and realized, not conferred ; in the language of events, if not in formal words, democracy has enumerated the conditions on which modern Inde- pendencies may occur ; they are : self-support, after some simple, hard-working, self-sacrificing stand- ard which we are all quick to recognize; self-con- trol, so that the verdict of a majority serves as a warrant for orderly procedure and a warning against revolution; self-respect, so that sensitive- ness does not too much depreciate resourcefulness 166 THE GREAT AMERICAN ADVENTURE in the presence of difficulties, and weaken the cour- age with which we meet them; intelligence and a deepening consciousnes of what good and evil, duty and pleasure are. No sentimental associations can waive any one of these terms, nor can self-interest bribe our partiality to set them aside. Because we have a July 4, 1776, is not per se proof that the Philippine Islanders are ready for self-govern- ment. When a large body of middle and lower class citizens, increasing in number and influence with each passing year, knowing what it means, yearn for independence; when another large body of Filipinos year after year put on record and reiterate their consuming desire to be received into the American Union as a Territory, we shall have evidences that may make action advisable. Until that time the words defining our National policy may remain in abeyance. 167 Chapter X EDUCATION IN THE PHILIPPINES ^^TT^ITCHENER'S SCHOOL" is one of the -"- -^ flashlight phrases to the credit of KipHng. It illustrates his incisive way of getting at the heart of things, and his picturesque power of pre- senting contemporaneous events with artistic effect and in decisive fashion. The dedication of Gordon College at Khartoum gave him opportunity to com- press into a few lines the duty of colonizing peo- ples, and his use of the incident has not only im- bedded the fact of the college into the history of our own times, but also indicated education as the sure process from brute force to spiritual enlarge- ment. The best traditions of the race relate to the instruction of the young, and the nations that put greatest capital into teaching live best and longest. Kitchener's School celebrates the English race as the great "teaching nation," and their genius in this particular is eccentric to the verge of madness. 168 EDUCATION IN THE PHILIPPINES "Knowing that ye are forfeit by battle, and have no right to live. He begs for money to bring you learning — and all the English give. It is their treasure — it is their pleasure — thus are their hearts inclined; For Allah created the English mad — the maddest of all mankind! "They do not consider the Meaning of Things; they con- sult not creed nor clan. Behold, they clap the slave on the back, and, behold, he arise th a man! They terribly carpet the earth with dead, and before their cannon cool, They walk unarmed by twos and threes to call the living to school." But the school, according to the poem, is an ex- planation of the men. This Mohammedan school- master, who had sers^ed with the Bengal Infantry at Suakim, the supposed author of the poem, gropes to the social meaning of the school and the attitude of the school teacher. It is the English who "Have set a guard on the granaries, securing the weak from the strong, And said, *Go, work the water-wheels that were abolished so long.* " We know the function of the school: first, to select and train leaders; and second, to raise the 169 IN PORTS AFAR mass of the people to the plane of intelligent par- ticipation in all essential social activities. But more than this education modifies a nation in an entirely original and pecular way. The problem of Darwin is, "How does environment affect men.'^" but education conforms environment to ideas and ideals that in result preserve and perpetuate the men who have modified their surroundings. We all recollect Darwin's statement about the influence of cats on the growth of clover in their neighborhood ; have read the effect of the European rabbits in New Zealand, and have discussed pro and con the English sparrow, as to whether he benefits by eating canker worms more than he damages by driving away native birds. So the importation of a virile race of men to Egypt, to India, or the Philippines, men used to plethora of bread, and knowing how to raise it, brings about a rearrangement of social relations. These men act as a ferment, exemplify new standards, initiate new methods, set new pre- cedents, and fertilize by their vigor and efficiency the agriculture, trade, and industry of the new land. Kitchener, with his orders to punish the mur- derers of General Gordon, parallels Admiral Dewey 170 EDUCATION IN THE PHILIPPINES with his instructions "to find and destroy the Span- ish fleet." There are many ready to sneer at Eng- land as bent on merely extending trade, and who denounce the Soudan expedition as jingoism. Kipling is nothing, say some, but a "jingo" and a sort of unofficial member of Parliament represent- ing "imperialism" as his constituency. England probably deserves criticism, but it should be for not doing in Armenia what she did in the Soudan. It is easy to cry "imperialism," as if that settled anything. Its social value or political force is about equal to the Oriental method of repljdng to whatever difficult question is proposed by the un- impeachable truism, "Allah is great." Not to fall back on the gods when a proximate principle can be found is one of the superiorities of Christianity to pagan faiths. It is proof of an efficient as dis- tinguished from an inefficient intellect, and is guar- antee that England will continue to govern **Tliose new-caught sullen peoples. Half devil and half child," over whom she has gradually assumed control. A certain amount of self-assertion is indispensable to national as well as individual existence, and any- 171 IN PORTS AFAR thing that will rouse the sleeping nerve-centers of national self-respect, such as the occupation of Algiers by the French or the conquest of Tripoli by the Italians, is well worth while. It is none the less good work if trade is increased by it. Law and order, increased tillage of land, and better ideas of equity and justice have likewise resulted. Kitch- ener's School is notice that civilization sends out to the world that independent nations must educate their children. America interfered in Cuba \vith something like Christian motives, and the occupation of the Philippines was a reluctant second move, made nec- essary by the first step. The nation would not be content to administer the Islands with any other intent than to benefit the Islanders. Wages have doubled since the American occupation, and only the fact that they are an American dependency pro- tects them now. Left to themselves, the Philippines would be overwhelmed by the migrating Chinese just as the Straits Settlements, Java, and Indo- China have been overwhelmed. The Japanese by trade discriminations or otherwise would certainly add them to the Mikado's realnis, even if by any stretch of the imagination they could be thought 172 EDUCATION IN THE PHILIPPINES able to protect themselves against the Chinese. Democracy has seemed to fail in Latin America, either from political tradition inherited from Spain, or from lack of universal education. The Fili- pinos have the same political training as Latin America; if by education he can become possessed of the self-governing capacity hitherto shown only by the white race, the altruism of America will be demonstrated beyond question. One does not need to go to the Philippines to learn the relationship of education to industry, and the recent tremendous expansion of industrial training. But an ordinary traveler could not spend a month in the islands without feeling that they have there an able group of young and enthusias- tic teachers who have mapped out a unique edu- cational program and are carrying it forward by methods of instruction, entertainingly original and free from all suspicion of educational tradition. The program of Dr. Kerschensteiner, of Munich, whose objective is a pupil in training to take his place as a useful citizen in the largest capacity, finds its counterpart in the educational system of the Philippines. We should expect to find graded school, high 173 IN PORTS AFAR school, normal and trade school. In the trade schools we should expect carpentry, cabinet-mak- ing, basketry, straw-braiding, and hat-making, sandal and slipper manufacture, weaving, em- broidery, and domestic science. But to search out the native materials available for industrial use, to establish new industries, to multiply tenfold the productive power of human labor, in tea, rice and sugar plantations, to reform the amusements of a whole people, to make trade and agricultural schools financially self-supporting, and to direct young men to every vocational path, from marine officer to supreme court judge, and meanwhile to keep zest in the practice of striving toward an educational end, is to justify the word of an Amer- ican scholar to Ex-President Taft, that our Govern- ment was "doing the most interesting and most promising piece of original work in education now in progress anywhere in the world." It might be added that all this has been accomplished at one- tenth the cost for similar work per capita in America. One scarce knows where to begin in an exposition of the unique aim and quality of American educa- tion in the islands. Let us have the first paragraph 174 EDUCATION IN THE PHILIPPINES on com. Corn is king in the United States, and will be in the Philippines. Once in Germany we attended a fair, or perhaps we would better call it a social function, held for the popularizing of corn-food products. In a way, agricultural educa- tion in the Philippines has had as one of its direct aims the growing of corn. Out there a young and aggressive group of teachers from the American corn-belt has preserved the memory of the tasseled brigade of the royal corn, and set the islanders into an acute palpitation to raise the best field of corn. A kodak picture recently produced in the Christian Advocate showed the famous Aguinaldo, leader of the insurrection and, next to Rizal, hero of the Tagalogs, standing with the first assistant director of education in a prize acre of corn planted and cultivated by Aguinaldo, Jr. One needs to go to the Philippines to understand what that picture means : a rich man's son actually at manual labor ; a Filipino, not loving labor, winning a prize thereby ; and thus exciting the emulation of a mil- lion like labor-unloving Filipinos, who could be taught in no other way that work is honorable and indolence one of the seven deadly sins. All the diplomacies of modern courts, cabinets, and cabals 175 IN PORTS AFAR do not equal the subtle -finesse in putting the Fili- pino boy to work. It is Tom Sawyer up to date, not with whitewash and brush, and fence to be cov- ered, but his American counterpart under the blaz- ing tropic glare, with plow and hoe, and corn to be grown. They have the young women in the com business, too. They hold multiplied corn demonstrations, where the young women, students of the domestic science departments of the pro- vincial schools, under the direction of domestic science teachers, prepare and serve dishes of corn- foods to vast crowds that hour after hour surround the booths. Would all Mount Pleasant go to a mango fair? They would if they had but once tasted a ripe, juicy, delicious mango. Would all Dumequete go to a corn-product festival? Six thousand of them did. There were six different dishes of corn prepared and sold, and probably four thousand ate of one or more of these prepared dishes. What a sideshow the corn-germinating box was, and how the thousands looked at the selected seed-ears! American plows and corn-shellers and cornmills were all on exhibition, and a swarm of boys, some of them dressed as fat, husky clowns, 176 EDUCATION IN THE PHILIPPINES wore placards, "I eat com;" others, dressed as lean clowns, wore other placards, "I eat rice," while all took part in the band that furnished music and amusement for the crowd. Rice is the Oriental food; unnumbered millions rejoice and feast when it is plenty, and mourn and starve when it is scarce. But corn and corn pone, and corn cakes, like science and the English language, and the Christian faith, belong to Occidental civilization. It is suggestive of fat swine, thick beefsteaks, butter and cheese, and the introduction of com to the Philippine Islands is naturalization, revolution, and revelation. The same subtlety is marked in the athletics in- troduced and fostered by the bureau of education. The problem of abolishing the American saloon, so that it will stay abolished, is to find something better and substitute it for the saloon. So these Tagalogs have amusements practiced for three hundred years in the islands, and by their forbears, both Spanish and Malay, for century on century before Philip II ruled. The two most typical were cock and bull fighting. It is needless to expatiate upon the utter cruelty of both, nor mention the gam- bling and general lawlessness consequent upon them. 12 177 IN PORTS AFAR Now comes the former secretary of education, one- time major in the Spanish-American War, member of Congress, Federal judge in the islands, member of the Philippine Commission before he was forty years old. He nominates for director of education and first and second assistant directors of education three big, young Americans, fresh from big, whole- some, American universities. The problem up to this quartet is how to abolish cock and bull fights. In fifteen seconds they all leap to the same induc- tion, "Let us introduce baseball." Forthwith it is done. The vacant lots are occupied, attendance at the chicken and bull fights falls off; the sport- ing goods firms are requisitioned from America; sweaters and "letters'' appear on runners, hurdlers, and players; the physical directors of the Young Men's Christian Association are drafted as coaches ; every teacher of the male persuasion gets into the game. Everybody played ball, or coached or rooted at the games. The clergy were not immune, and, barring the nonconformist missionaries, all the clergy in the islands could probably be con- victed of playing baseball on Sunday. Basket ball, volley ball, relay ball, and track athletics followed 178 EDUCATION IN THE PHILIPPINES in the procession until a nation of gamblers and cock-fighters forgot the stupid and cruel sports of even ten years ago and have become naturalized Americans at least in their devotion to the Amer- ican game. They run like the wind, leap like light- ning, and can peg a ball as far as their American compatriots, on the average nine inches higher in stature. In Tokyo we saw the all-Filipino team play Meiji, the imperial university nine; and to behold eight thousand Japanese rooting, waving pennants, and chaffing the umpire made us think that Luzon, Japan, and the United States had long since formed the triple baseball alliance. The Olympic games for Eastern Asia, where Filipino, Jap, and Chinese competed, the crowds that at- tended and the new standards of manhood that in those games had rapid growth speak volumes for the educational experiment which has succeeded be- yond all expectation in the Philippines. The nautical school, tea cultivation, the making of Bally-wag hats, the adoption of the Rigadone, the stately old dance of the Filipinos, the way a clump of abaca plants have been taught to disap- pear and presto to reappear as a car-load of ropes, 179 IN PORTS AFAR hats, slippers, baskets and cloth, and the ingenuity developed in the use of the buri palm, w^ould each make paragraphs as adventurous and fascinating as any tale Jack London ever wrote of these South- ern seas. 180 Chapter XI CONTENT AND PER CONTRA fTlHE content of American education in the Phil- -■■ ippines is not quite so easy to delimit as its extent, yet it offers several specifications generally applicable. Under the Spanish rule only a very few, the children of the great families and those in training for the priesthood, were educated; and even these, judged by the present-day American standards, scarcely deserve the term. It can not be claimed that the Jesuit colleges fostered a genuine desire for learning. Their students seldom pursued learning for its own sake, but rather to qualify for govern- ment service or the clerical profession. The old education for the ruling classes consisted for the most part of theology and literature through the medium of the Spanish language, with a smatter- ing of law, art, and music added. The educational value of the mediaeval philosophy and theology 181 IN PORTS AFAR commonly in vogue is open to question. The Latin taught was that of the Church ^'fathers," and the horizon was limited to the ecclesiastical propa- ganda. The young men thus trained could not know the tremendous economic waste involved in the fact that almost one-fourth the property in Spain was in the possession of the Church ; that in the year 1550, twenty-one years before Legazpi founded Manila, there were in Spain 58 arch- bishops, 684 bishops, 11,400 monasteries, 312,000 secular priests, 400,000 ecclesiastics, and nuns in like proportion. They held enormous amounts of property, and even the primate of the Spanish Church advised Philip II to found no more monas- teries. The graduates of the Jesuit colleges never learned the consequences of clerical idleness, the ex- ploitation of labor, which of necessity follows the withdrawal of such a large proportion of the wealth from taxation, and remained in ignorance of the economic conditions of the Filipino people, know- ing neither the history of the mother country, nor the processes of the government under which they lived. There is another objection to the purely literary training which any language furnishes, namely, 182 CONTENT AND PER CONTRA the inaccuracy into which Hterature often falls. For example, take Macaulay and his judgment against Frederick the Great in the matter of Se- lesia. The Heritage-Brotherhood made between Joachim II, Marquis of Brandenburg, and Fred- erick II, Duke of Liegnitz {Erbverbrilderung) , was a very common form of pact among German princes well disposed toward each other. The right of each to dispose of their lands in any manner of way had been saved entirely by each and care- fully acknowledged. The privilege had been con- firmed again and again. Emperor Ferdinand de- termined to prohibit it, and the Duke of Liegnitz, under the stress of kingly pressure, was compelled to submit, but went so far as to append a codicil to his will, saying that he considered the Heritage- Brotherhood as valid and binding upon him and his duchy, though it had been overruled by the vassals of Bohemia. The king and emperor at- tempted in like manner to coerce the Brandenburg- ers into surrender of their deed, but Joachim II and all of his successors steadily refused to give up that bit of written parchment. When the agree- ment became actionable, on the accession of Fred- erick the Great, all of these conclusive proofs were 183 IN PORTS AFAR easily available, and the English world should have understood it and sympathized accordingly. Now, Lord Macaulay was eloquent and literary, and much in vogue. He was not scientific, nor accurate, and has succeeded in prejudicing thousands of people who should have been well affected toward the great German king, but for his inaccurate statement of the merits of the case. In the same way thousands of fair-minded English people are still filled with indignation when they read of the atrocious acts of Clive and Hastings, as related by Macaulay, re- counted as occurring in the conquest of India. No suspicion reaches their minds of the truth that these horrors never occurred, and yet they continue to furnish an unfailing source of invective and ob- loquy. His brilliant essays based upon Mill's in- accurate history, and Burke's speeches, drama rather than fact, are utterly unreliable. Men of his own generation investigated the original sources, and eye-witnesses disproved and discredited every- thing but the imaginative work of Macaulay. Both are illustrations of the astounding inaccura- cies into which men of merely literary training may fall. The results of present-day magazines and editorial writing, saturated as they are with poli- 184 CONTENT AND PER CONTRA tics, and by inference teaching that governments are usually offensive and miserably unwise, are mis- chievous in the extreme. The newspapers continue to fill the Filipino discussions with invectives, and the "politicos" who are ambitious for place, wealth, and power, with their imitative faculty, assume that for the United States to delay granting inde- pendence for a generation is proof positive that the President and Congress constitute a tyranny similar to that of George III, Lord North, and his Parliament. To quote Sir John Strachey, on a similar issue, "this sort of education is dangerous fare for Asiatic brains." Already the daily papers are reporting that if independence is delayed a revolutionary outbreak is to be expected. Respect for authority is always hampered by the speeches and writings of foolish and selfish political agi- tators. The strict and sober tests of truth, which modern science and economics alone can supply, have heretofore been utterly wanting in the educa- tion of the Filipinos. This corrective is the fore- most discernible content of American education in the islands. It is scientific and economic, and the situation in the islands echoes what Sir Henry Maine once said of the English education in India : 185 IN PORTS AFAR "The native literature is supremely and deliberately careless of all precision in magnitude, number, and time. ... It stands in need beyond everything of stricter criteria of truth. It requires a treatment to harden and brace it, and scientific teaching is exactly the tonic its infirmities call for." The American education in the Philippines is admirable likewise in the emphasis it puts upon manual labor. Huxley has a dictum that the dif- ference between the apes in England and the apes in Africa is that the former have a thumb oppos- able to four fingers. The hand that is thus formed, the bodily variations uniformly associated, the sense of touch and balance that have developed with it, make it one of the dependent variables that becomes a factor in the diff*erential that marks the human. The hand is the one tool that man did not make for himself, and its willing use is sure guide-post to civilization. As a rule all tropical peoples dis- like physical exertion. Just as in America thou- sands prefer clerical work, or some indoor employ- ment, so the Filipinos want occupations that will allow them to wear clean duck clothing and work with gloves on their hands. That is the limit of respectable toil. An expert in agriculture must be 186 CONTENT AND PER CONTRA willing, in case of necessity, to work with his hands ; a good engineer must be master of mechanical arts and ready to use his hands. Often this is prohib- itive to the natives, who have been trained by the example of the Spaniards and Mestizos to rely on literary culture and to regard manual labor as de- meaning. Handwork by the leaders is paramount to the industrial development planned by the civic leaders. It will take regiments of engineers, agri- culturists, skilled mechanics, and draughtsmen to reform the economic conditions of the islands. Their efficiency must be based upon scientific knowl- edge, technical training, and manual skill. The young women show a noticeable backwardness to take the domestic science courses, and the young men a reluctance to train for engineers and similar occupations. Young men in the United States, for the most part, are practical and eager to get on. Temperamentally they are unfitted for the slow, plodding ways and years that are essential to mak- ing genuine scholars; they take the short cut to success by tools and mechanisms. The educational problem at home is to make them see that a mere handling of tools can not make the mechanical en- gineer who conceives great manufacturing enter- 187 IN PORTS AFAR prises, stupendous public works, and carries them forward to completion. He needs to look for the mentality and sentiment with which to equip his imagination and enlarge the horizon of his concep- tions. But in the Philippines the problem is to get a whole generation to learn that breadth of percep- tion and the higher viewpoint is dependent for final efficiency on practical adaptation : on ability to illus- trate the control of materials by the use of tools as books. It is part ignorance, but also part in- dolence. The Philippine education proceeds on the assumption that product of the brain multiplied by the hand, not the square of the brain or the hand, approximates the highest human capacity. This underlies the whole educational system. Pri- mary, grade, and high school instruction are planned to undermine the prejudice against work and to excite all to prepare for some gainful occu- pation by the rewards of labor and the avenues to leadership which the system aflFords to those with manual training. The moral content is not so certainly praise- worthy. There is no use in discussing whether the government could do otherwise than hold itself rigidly aloof from all concern with religious edu- 188 CONTENT AND PER CONTRA cation; but it is not too much to say that the educational advances have been on the intellectual rather than on the moral side. The Filipino past has not been favorable to the cultivation of civic or ecclesiastic virtue, and we can not but feel that it would have been politically wise to show interest and sympathy with the habits of thought and cus- toms that are inseparably associated with the Puri- tan forbears. The American occupation has not taken the American Sabbath to the Philippines. That tall, white angel, the Holy Day of Protestantism, has been overwhelmed by the continental holiday of France, Italy, and Spain. Education, daily pa- pers, athletics, amusements, roadways, and means of conveyance have all been made to conform to American ideas. Even the beautiful, stately "rigadone," the pure, popular, and approvable dance of the Philippines, is going into desuetude, displaced by the waltz, two-step, and turkey trot. But civil government officials, army officers, Amer- ican tourists, and the Protestant Episcopal clergy have conformed to usage, not helped to transform, according to ideal, and a nation without the Sab- bath is forthcoming. 189 IN PORTS AFAR The reasons are not far to seek. The Sabbath with the Roman church has been a day of worship in its few early hours, and a holiday for the late forenoon, afternoon, and evening. By reason of the climate, the Catholic church services are held as early as 5 and 6 o'clock. In the Jesuit Church in Manila a later service is held, but among the native populations all over the islands the religious services are ended by 8 o'clock in the forenoon. That is before the average American has break- fasted and read his morning paper. In the army at times the pressure of events makes anything but a holiday impossible. Usually there is no chaplain, and where there is an English service, unless some major or colonel sets a rigid example and himself attends it, the meeting goes by default so far as the rank and file are concerned. The heads of the insular government, from Ex-President Taft down, have not been given to Sabbath keeping in the evan- gelical sense, and the Bureau of education, to con- trovert the cock-fighting habits of the people, have been encouraging baseball, volley ball, and basket ball games on Sunday afternoon. The great Manila Eight-Day Carnival starts in on Saturday, so as to run over two Sundays. Under the circumstances, 190 CONTENT AND PER CONTRA perhaps, we ought to be satisfied that baseball games are usually scheduled for Sunday afternoon. Major-General Bell forbade the regimental teams from playing polo on Sunday, and the Greek audi- torium, which he caused to be built at Camp John Hay, gives opportunity for great religious gather- ings while the capital is at Baguio. The English in Egypt, Straits Settlements, In- dia, and China do better than the Americans are doing in the Philippines. If they do not trans- form, at least they do not conform. The English red-coats, semper ubique, line up for service at the establishment, or at the nonconformist Church of his selection, every Sunday morning. Usually there is a volunteer service at the barracks in the evening. One of the pleasures of an American on a circumnavigating tour is to be invited by some major or captain to speak to the men perhaps as late as 9 o'clock in the evening. There you maj'' hear four or five hundred men sing the great hymns of the Church, and they always listen attentively. On all the English boats the captain reads the serv- ice Sunday morning, and after repeated hearings we confess to liking it, and thinking it exceedingly fit and appropriate. 191 IN PORTS AFAR We are launched on such an adventure in the Phihppines as our fathers could not have foreseen. In all details, save in this of the Sabbath, the ex- periment has been conducted with such dignity and capacity as to render it unique in colonizing an- nals. We would that it might have this added grace. To keep one day for meditation, prayer, and the assembling of ourselves together has seemed important to Christianity from its very beginning. There is something in the formality, as England has learned. The Filipino peoples are Christian, and at present they are American. We owe it to our Pacific neighbors, the Chinese and Japanese, and to our wards for the time being, the Filipinos, to conform officially to Protestant type and set them an example of Sabbath observance. Let the Sabbath peace and quiet pervade the islands '^like the sweet presence of a good diff^used, making the world fairer, life nobler, and the people themselves more reverent and more righteous.' ?) 192 Chapter XII THE FOURTEENTH AMENDMENT IN THE PHILIPPINES WHEN Dean C. Worcester, Secretary of the Interior for the Philippine Commission, published his report on "Slavery and Peonage," he issued an indictment against the Philippine As- sembly, showed the utter unreliability of Seiior Manuel Quezon, the Territorial representative in Congress, and assured his own dismissal from pub- lic service in the islands. The Filipino leaders have long been accustomed to speak of the "unpopu- larity" of the Secretary of the Interior, and yet to him the country is indebted for a clear, straight- forward statement of a situation and knowledge of acts against which the Philippine Commission long since decreed penalties. His "unpopularity" will be fully appreciated when it is known that Senor Quezon has loudly and recklessly raised the claim 13 193 IN PORTS AFAR that there was no such thing as slavery in the provinces, as follows: "As a Filipino familiar with the facts in the case, I do not hesitate to qualify the letter of Secretary Worcester as being at once false and slanderous. It is false, because there does not exist slavery in the Philippines, or at least in that part of the coun- try subject to the authority of the Philippine As- sembly. It is slanderous because it presents the Philippine Assembly by innuendo, if not openly, as a body which countenances slavery. "Since there is not, and there never was, slavery in the territory inhabited by the Christian Fili- pinos, which is the part of the Islands subject to the legislative control of the Assembly, this House has refused to concur in the anti-slavery bill passed by the Philippine Commission. ?5 Palawan is one of the provinces "subject to the authority of the Philippine Assembly." It is pos- sible that Senor Quezon is so ignorant of conditions there as to be unaware of the indisputable fact that the Moros of that province held slaves until com- pelled to give them up by a provincial government carried on under the administrative control of an American Secretary of the Interior, but if so, he 194 THE FOURTEENTH AMENDMENT has no rightful claim to be a "Filipino familiar with the facts." Isabela is a province "subject to the authority of the Philippine Assembly." It differs from Pala- wan in that the large majority of its inhabitants are Christian Filipinos, and in the further fact that it is organized under the Provincial Government Act, and is therefore not in any way subject to the control of the Secretary of the Interior. Slavery has been common in this province from the beginning of historic times, and it is common there to-day. Its occurrence is admitted, and the conditions under which it prevails are described in a report by a fellow countryman of Senor Quezon, Sefior Francisco Dishoso, who was governor of the province when he made it on September 9, 1903. The history of this interesting and important document is briefly as follows: On April 28, 1903, the senior inspector of constabulary in Isabela wired the first district chief of constabulary, Ma- nila, that : "In this province it is a common practice to own slaves. These are bought by proprietarios (property owners. — D. C. W.) from Igorrotes and Calingas who steal same in distant places from 195 IN PORTS AFAR other tribes. Young boys and girls are bought at about 100 pesos, men 30 years old and old women cheaper. When bought, are generally christened and put to work on ranch or in house, and I think generally well treated. In this town a number sold within last few months, and as reported to me, Governor has bought three. Shall I investigate further.'^ Instructions desired. "(Signed) Sorenson." The further explanation of the Secretary of the Interior being "unpopular" may be found in the recommendation he made at the end of the fiscal year, June 30, 1912, as follows: "That for the adequate protection of the non- Christian tribes a final and earnest effort be made to secure the concurrence of the Philippine Assem- bly in the passage for the territory under the juris- diction of the Philippine Legislature of an Act identical with, or similar to. Act No. 2071, entitled, 'An Act prohibiting slavery, involuntary servitude, peonage, and the sale or purchase of human be- ings in the Mountain Province and the Provinces of Nueva Viscaya and Agusan, and providing pun- ishment therefor, and that in the event of failure, the attention of Congress be called to this impor- tant matter to the end that it may pass adequate 196 THE FOURTEENTH AMENDMENT legislation if it deems such a course in the public interest." The bill was tabled by the Assembly on Janu- ary 8, 1913, and Secretary Worcester made his appeal to the Congress at Washington. The new governor-general in his first speech on arrival at Manila promised that the Filipinos were at once to be given a majority of the members of the In- sular Commission, and reports of the appointment of a new committee to ^^investigate" were again made. Meanwhile Congressional attention had been fixed upon this enormity, and the decisions of the Filipino courts were read by American lawyers. The decision in the Tomas Cabanag case is as follows : "The Congress of the United States has declared that human slavery shall not exist in these Islands, and while no law, so far as I can discover, has yet been passed either defining slavery in these Islands or affixing a punishment for those who engage in these inhuman practices as dealers, buyers, sellers, or derivers, the facts established in this case show conclusively that the child Jimaya was by the de- fendant forcibly and by fraud, deceit, and threats, unlawfully deprived of her liberty, and that his object and purpose was an unlawful and illegal 197 IN PORTS AFAR one, to wit, the sale of the child for money into human slavery. This constitutes the crime of illegal detention defined and penalized by article 481 of the Penal Code, and this court finds the de- fendant guilty as charged in the information.' ?5 On appeal from the judgment of the court of first instance by the defendant, although it was conclusively shown that the child Jimaya had been forcibly taken from the possession of her grandmother Oltagon, who was exercising lawful and proper guardianship of the child, and that the child was sold to a certain Mareano Lopez, yet the appellate court held that the acts complained of did not constitute a crime and could not be prose- cuted within the realm of criminal law without an act of Legislature. The language of the court is herewith appended: "To sum up this case, there is no proof of slavery or even of involuntary servitude, inasmuch as it has not been clearly shown that the child has been disposed of against the will of her grandmother or has been taken altogether out of her control. If the facts in this respect be interpreted other- wise, there is no law^ applicable here, either of the United States or of the Archipelago, punishing slavery as a crime. The child was not physically 198 THE FOURTEENTH AMENDMENT confined or restrained so as to sustain a conviction for illegal detention, nor are the acts of the accused brought within any of the provisions of the law for the punishment of offenses against minors; conse- quently the conviction in this case must be reversed, in accordance with the recommendation of the at- torney-general, with costs de oficio^ and the pris- oner is acquitted." This decision allowed native judges in courts of the first instance all the latitude they required in order to conform to the wishes of the cacique. Then the great religious weeklies of the country began to speak; an article in the Christian Ad- vocate bearing upon the subject was sent direct to the President, and forthwith, to the great credit of the new Administration, the penal clauses were enacted by the Philippine Assembly. It was not self-government, rather it was government from Washington ; but it was a moral issue, upon which no one, much less the President, would hesitate for one moment. Perhaps the new governor-general, crediting as he does his appointment to Senor Quezon, could not do less than dismiss a man who would unhesitatingly blurt out the truth, even in the face of the Territorial representative, who be- 199 IN PORTS AFAR longs to the dominant party, and who is eager to be the head of the new RepubKc, in his opinion about to be estabhshed. That men of his class and character will control in any government estab- lished, is the tremendou-s and unassailable argument for maintaining the status quo. The existence of slavery and peonage for several centuries in the Islands is the greatest single prob- lem confronting the Government in its attempt to build up in the Islands a respectable and respon- sible electorate through whom responsible govern- ment may be established. The situation grows out of the ancient regime. Then the king, don, baron, cacique, or boss had the right to any and all kinds of service from his retainers. They tilled his fields, ran his errands, and submitted to his caprices in every particular. The degeneracy of this titular lord, and the deterioration of whole peoples thereby resulting, is too well known to the sociologists to need statement. This feudal lord persisted in the Philippines until the American occupation, has per- sisted since that time until now, without the con- sent or knowledge of the American people, and, unless the electorate are intelligent and persistent in their watch of Filipino events, is likely long to 200 THE FOURTEENTH AMENDMENT continue. Even with all the restraints of law a weak and degraded people, not knowing their rights, and powerless to enforce them against the customs and precedents of hundreds of years, would long remain enslaved in fact, if free in name. The multiplicity of cases requires an explana- tion. They are about as follows : A man in petty financial straits would borrow ten or fifteen pesos, giving as security for the repayment of the money his boy, more frequently his girl, age from twelve to sixteen years. The pawn changed residence and worked for the lender until the debt was paid. As is often the case in America, the debt increased rather than diminished. Perhaps the girl or girls disappeared. It happened that way often. That ended the obligation, and the debt was canceled. Or suppose it was a boy, and he ran away. Trumped-up charges of theft, larceny, or assault were filed against him, and over to Bilibid, the State's prison, he went, unless he was willing to return to work. There were a discreditable number of Filipino judges of the first instance who were ready to oblige a cacique in such a simple matter. The length to which these cases go is maddening. There is one where the poor Filipino was protected 201 IN PORTS AFAR by the laws passed by the Phihppine Commission for the non-Christian provinces. To evade this protection the poor fellow was baptized; the can- didate was willing to receive baptism in the hope that it would better his condition, and the owner arranged it on the supposition that the lack of law for the Christian provinces would hold after the slave was baptized. And it did avail until the appellate court ruled that the mere act of baptizing a provincial heathen did not cost him the protection of the law for the non-Christian provinces. The refusal of the Filipino Assembly four times to pass these bills is a sure index of the actual state of affairs. It is easy, therefore, to understand the solicitude with which men conversant with Fili- pino affairs view the granting of a majority in the Philippine Commission to the natives. The present Legislature consists of two Houses, an As- sembly of eighty-four Filipino members, represent- ing thirty-four provinces, and the Philippine Com- mission, an appointive body of nine members. Five of these latter have hitherto been Americans, all of whom, except the governor-general, have held ad- ministrative portfolios. The two Houses have equal power; either may initiate a bill, but affirmative 202 THE FOURTEENTH AMENDMENT action IS required by both in order to pass a bill. It is evident that before so vital a change was made there should have been a careful studv of the bills passed by the Assembly, and refused pas- sage by the Commission, and likewise the bills passed by the Commission and refused passage by the Assembly. The one passed by the Commission and four times refused passage by the Assembly concerning peonage and slavery has already been referred to. There are others emanating from the Assembly and refused passage by the Commission because they were dangerous, some even imperiling the stability and effectiveness of the Government. Then the original Act of Congress retained for the Commission exclusive authority over the non- Christian tribes, who had been the greatest sufferers by peonage and slavery. It was unquestionably the purpose of the Congress to keep the control of these more than a million unoffending, backward people in the hands of those who could be relied upon neither to exploit them nor to delay their progress to civilized equality. Heretofore it has been the policy to give these wild tribesmen and the poor Filipinos who make up the bulk of the population all possible aid in 203 IN PORTS AFAR securing homesteads and in the purchase of the small tracts with which they were satisfied. The policy of the Government has been to help all to become landholders. But the rich illustrados, or landholders, do not want this to occur. They pre- fer that these people should remain tenants on their large holdings, practically in a state of peonage. They have heretofore sought to mislead the people as to their rights, and have opposed them when they sought free homesteads. One of the first removals ordered by the new governor-general was that of Captain Sleeper, who had greatly interested him- self in instructing the poor and ignorant as to their rights, and assisting them to maintain those rights. By so doing the captain had made himself ex- tremely unpopular with the rich landholders, and his successor, a Filipino, will find it exceedingly hard to stand up against the pressure brought by these men. The Friar lands, which have been fre- quently mentioned in America, are under the con- trol of this same bureau, and, as in the case of the public lands, wealthy Filipinos wrongfully claim these lands and have repeatedly tried to prevent poor people from purchasing holdings therein, thus keeping them tenants on their own estates. 204 THE FOURTEENTH AMENDMENT These lands are plainly the best in the Islands. The Filipino appointed to this great office says he knows nothing about it, and every true friend of democracy must view with the gravest concern the placing of such a trust in the hands of a man avowedly ignorant of his duties. The office to which he has been appointed is the single barrier between a rich and autocratic land-holding class and millions of weak, poor, and ignorant Filipinos, whose efforts to improve their condition have been long viewed with disgust. Irreparable damage is sure to be inflicted upon the work of this bureau. The removals were strictly political, and on the authority of Dr. D. C. Worcester (we quote from him as reported in the Manila Cable News) : "I was informed that the governor-general had cabled Washington for advice as to how far he could go with removals without violating the letter of the Philippine service act. While en route to the Islands he gave out an Interview in which he stated in effect that for years he had seen Democrats badly treated as such, and took sardonic pleasure in now being able to accord similar treatment to the Republicans." Nothing seems to be wanting to justify the mot passed around to the effect that 205 IN PORTS AFAR "the day Tammany Hall lost control in New York City it acquired control in Manila." Hitherto the Philippine service has been remarkably free from such spoilsmen; nobody has stopped to inquire what were the politics of any governor-general or other official. Two of the governor-generals were Democrats, and the head of the bureau of education upon the arrival of the present governor-general was a Democrat. It is only proper that the gov- ernor-general should have men in the highest admin- istrative offices in full sympathy with his political views, but the removal of expert bureau chiefs, who are occupied with the efficient and economic performance of the work of the Government, will result in quick disaster. With the reductions of salaries affecting Ameri- cans, and the refusal to allow leave of absence, customary so as to allow the return of the em- ployees to America, we have little to say. The bureau of printing will illustrate the method of displacing men by salary reduction. This bureau had always been a matter of pride to the insular government. The director had from the outset used it as an opportunity for training the Filipinos, making it a great industrial school, and fitting 206 The statement in the last sentence on page 207 is in error. At this date there are fifteen American Veterinarians on duty in the Islands. vv^r y,:fr