m .0^ .0 O, ^ "i-^ ^ ^ ^0 o 0^ \ ^ c^'- > ,-^- as "'■ %^- ^ %"'^^'',^ ' ^ O .' N -r) ..■?- .0 o. "bo^ ^V 'c^ o ^' A- oN' S' ^, .0 0^ » ^:t. ^,<^' % ^'^' o ■f' a\ >• ^/ ■J .^^ >'^ .^"^ V^, ,v^ - .!-i^^ .0 o;^ -71, .^ N ■ ^^. : "^^- .^^'' A \^- O ■^b. '/ V .0 0, /\ A- O 0^ '■ ,0- <> V • x^'^ "^^ ' ,0- ,-0' K aN" vr> ^>- ,,^' ,\' * .A'- •^■^^y^' \ .^ .- > 1 ': . ""/ ■ f' '"^^ / ■'■^o^ a. * % " xO o ^'-..0^ -5^ % .#■ t .-i' .-.S ^-CV^ ^s^^ ^i - 'j^. -,\^' ^.r. ,#\.^^ >. v^^ -. .^' x-f' MISCELLANIES OF a-EOisc^i-i^, Historical, Biograpliid, Dwiptive, Etc. ABSALOM H. CHAPPELL. IN THRKK PARTS. PROEME. CHAPTER 1.— THE OCONEE WAR. CHAPTER II.— THE OCONEE WAR CONTINUED. CHAPTER 111.— ALEXANDER MCGILLIVRAY. CHAPTER IV.— GEN. ELIJAH CLARK. CHAPTER v.— COL. BENJAMIN HAWKINS. JA]\4ES K. MKKOAN, ATLANTA, QA. 'Of Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by ABSALOM H. CHAPPELL, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. TO THE Hon. henry R. HARRIS, MEMBER OF CONGRESS PROM GEORGIA, TO WHOJt THESE SHEETS ABE BEHOLDEN FOE GEEIKG THE LIGHT, THEY ARE INSCRIBED BY HIS . KINSMAN AND FRIEND, THE AUTHOR. I have gotten beyond the Scriptural term of years aUotted to man on earth. 1 have outlived my three score and ten. But although old age is fully upon me, I do not as yet feel its weight. Deep in the raid winter of life, I have not as yet felt its chill. lam sensible of no decline of physical health or mental alacrity^ or warmth of heart. At no period have I enjoyed more consciously that great blessing, a sound mind in a sound body. In this respect I sometimes almost feel entitled to lay claim to what Cicero lauds in his immortal \yoYk De Seuecfulc: Eani scnectutem qua? fundamentis ado- lesentia? constituta est: — That old ago which is hui/t on the foumlations of youth. Where these are sound and well laid, both mind and body are apt to bear up bravely under a pretty heavy superstructure of years, and to acquire hard- ness and strength, rather than incur premature decay from time. Whilst, however, sustaining thus well the weight of age, I cannot hel{) at the same time feeling how near my end really is. To me the horizon of life no longer recedes as I advance. It stands still and awaits me, and I must soon reach it and disappear beneath it from earthly view. But I recoit not from the near seen event. God has been pleased to grant me a length of years beyond the common lot. It saddens me to think how little good use I have made of them, liow much I have been wanting to Him my Maker, to my- self and to my kind. Yet I have some comfort in the re- flection, that though I have fallen very short of my duty and of what I might and should have done in my day and gen- eration, still I have striven throughout life, and I trust not PROEME. 2 ineffectually, agaiti.st the downward tendencies of my ])oor human nature and have souglit to keep my soul erect and aspiring towards God and Heaven, and may I not humbly hope that when it shall pass from earth, it will he received into that celestial home for which it yearns. I have reached a stage at which the mind has ceased to dwell over-fondly on things of the Present. Rather do I tind myself inclining more and more to ruminate on my long, multifarious Past, and to ponder on the short, precarious future lying before me. Day by day I feel more strongly that tlie little time I have left is quite too little, in my ac- tual circumstances, for any important worldly effort or ef- fect, and every day I long, with growing solicitude and mis- giving for somewhat to do or attempt, that may promise to rescue my remaining days from the stigma of an inane and useless existence. Were I in the zenith or not too far beyond the zenith of life, I would disregard the ruin war has brought upon me and set to work untiringly to retrieve my fortunes ; to which end I would have but to repeat, to live over again my past life, and upon the simple principle that like causes, if they h^ve but time to operate, will produce like effects, I would be sanguine of being able to replace the lost fruits of the past with another ample stoie. But I have neither time nor strength left for this repetition, — ibr planting and culti- vating sucli another, or indeed any other crop. My down- fall has come upon me too late in life to admit of recupera- tion, and there is no alternative for me but to sit and die amidst its ruins. But still I would not sit idle and be ut- terly useless in the dear little ciicle which confines me. I would lain keep my mind bright and elastic and worthily at work in some way to the very last, if it were hut for my own sake ; — and for the sake of the beloved ones involved in ray impoverishment and to whom I can no longer bequeath money or money's worth, I would fain leave something be- hind me, which, if I can but be happy in its delivery, may l)e, if not a compensation, at least a consolation — something 6 PROEME. that will be precious to tlieir hearts when I ara gone, and T pray Heaven, solidly profitable to them for time and for eternity. Behold here, why and for whom the impulse to write first seized me ! Aye, it was for the loving hearts and partial eyes of tliose to whom nothing that relates to me or pro- ceeds from me, can ever be devoid of interest ! It was for those to whom 1 feel that I am ever the same, though for- tune is no longer my friend, but has deserted me, and now instead other, age and povei-ty are my companions, giimly escorting me to an humble grave which no marble will adorn or iron inclose. But little to me, marble tomb or iron inclosure. For I shall rest in thy bosom, Georgia ! — thy skies over me, thine earth and air above and around me, thy sons and daughters, from generation to generation, side by side with me, and on thy maternal lap, beneath thy sacred, conscious sod, I shall sleep proudly, though sorrowfully, lorever sensible of thy nobleness and worth, firever mourn- ing thy wrongs and ruin. A son's strong love for thee unites with a lather's for his children to impel my pen, and it may be I have seen and known and heard enough, and felt and thought enough about thee and thine, to make some things that pen shall trace not wholly uninteresting to thy true children too. CHA^If^TlilR I. THE OCONEE AVAR. In the first year of tlie present century, the Oconee river, three miles from which I was then born, in Hancock county, was still the dividing line between a powerful, ever aggres- sive Anglo-American civilization on its eastern side, and the immemorial Indian barbarism Avhich reigned as yet all the way from its western bank to the shores of tlic Pacific. l>ut my, then clear and beautiful, native stream, on whose bright bosom, with its glorious garniture of towering, overhanging trees in their rich autumnal attire, I first gazed enraptured as the light canoe bore me, a child, swiftly across its placid, broad-seeming wave, safe in a mother's encircling arms and a father's skilled rowing hands, was not destined to retain much longer the distinction of being so important a bound- ary. The relentless tide of the white man's insatiable land- greed was already beating heavily against it, and soon swept over it, and in less than another year the red man was pressed back another and to him sad remove towards the setting sun. For it was the very next spring, in the month of April, 1802, that the Federal Government entered into th^'famous compact with Georgia, long celebrated in her annals, known as the Articles of Agreement and Cession, by which Georgia ceded to the United States the whole of her territory lying between her present western boundary and the Mississppi river, comprising nearly all of what now constitutes the two great States of Alabama and Mississippi. In return for which, besides a million and a quarter to be paid in money, the United States also stipulated to extin- 6 THE OCONEE WAR. guisli for Georgia the aboriginal title to all the lands still occupied by the Indians within her thus reduced limits. And before the end of the year the National Administration, heedful of the obligation it luid taken upon itself, hastened to take the first step in discharging it, by purchasing of tlie Muscogee or Creek Nation the fertile and beautiful tract of country spreading out west from the Oconee river to the Ocmulgce. At this period, not twenty years liad yet elapsed since Georgia had gotten from the Creeks and Chei'okees the whole region, of which Hancock was only a very small part, commencing far down oa tlie Altamaha, and lying first be- tween that great river and the Ogeechee, and then between the Ogeechee and the Oconee, all the way up to their sources, and from thence across, between lines nearly paral- lel, to the Savannah and the Tugalo : — A region nearly equal in extent, and more than equal in value and fertility, to all of organized Georgia as then existing ; a fact strongly showing what an important stride towards future develop- ment and greatness the State made when she elfected that en- largement of her bounds, and how sagacious our predecessors of that day were in seizing the o})})ortunity of effecting it, which presented itself at the triumphant close of the Revo- lutionary war ; up to which time all this country had re- mained in the hands of the Indians, Georgia having previ- ously acquired from them no more than a narrow strip along the sea-board irora the Savannah to the St. Mary's, and anothfr narrow strip running up between the Savannah and the Ogeeehee, comprehending all Wilkes county as origi- nally constituted. Both the Creeks and Cherokees had sided and fought with Great Bi'itain against us, during the Revolutionary war, and having failed with her and been left by lier to their fate, they necessarily incurred the fate of the vanquished, and Georgia, as the victor, having them at her mercy, dictated such terms of peace as suited her, and obtained, the large cession of lands above mentioned. Rut the terms were too hard upon the Indians for a sincere THE OCONEE WAR. 7 and solid peace, and it turned out, as might have been fore- seen, to he a hollow and unreal one. Treaties of i:)eace were, indeed, made, but they brought no peace. They only terminated one war to sow the seeds and pave the way for another. The Cherokces being comparativel}' weak and unwarlike and destitute of any very able and ambitious leadership among themselves, the lands also derived from them being of much less extent aud value, the trouble our ancestors had with them never became so very formidable, and was much more easily composed. Not so with the Creeks. They were by far the most nu- merous, powerful and warlike of all the Indian tribes in North America, and their name had gotten, during the Revolutionary war, to strike terror around every hearth- stone in Georgia. To them, moreover, had belonged the lower, and the larger and more valuable portion of our new acquisitions. Cherishing still the rancors of past hostili- ty, chafing under what they deemed the enormous price exacted for peace, and inspired by a supreme chief* of con- summate abilities, ambition and influence, and especially animated by hatred of Georgia, they utterly refused to ac- quiesce in the cession which a portion of their head men had made at Augusta in 1783, and resorted to arms against it and to resist our occupation of the ceded lands. In the irregular, desultory manner <:)f savage warfare, they kept up for many years a struggle, frequently relaxed, sometimes even intermitted, yet always overhanging and threatening to break out in fresh incursions and outrages. The Geor- gians, nevertheless, or Virginians, as the Indians called them, thronged in great numbers and undeterred, into the contested territory and pitched their settlements wherever they best liked, upon soil which they were liable every moment to have to defend with their lives. They lived, of course, in perpetual peril, aud were compelled to be always in arms and on the alert. It would not be too strong to say of the infancy of this part of the State that it was baptised * Alexander McGillivray. 8 THE OCONEE WAR. in the blood of men, women and children. The reliance for defence was in part on a very few United States troops, gar- risoned here and there along the Oconee river, and on vol- unteer horsemen organized under State authority, in small bands, regularly ofiicered, always ready to take the saddle, indeed most of the time in it, and actively traversing the country in all directions, attacking, repelling, pursuing, intimidating — to whose aid upon emergency all the fighting men rushed from their houses and fields at a moment's warning. All this, however, would not have sufficed with- out the help of other means, and as the best other means in their power, the different settlements took a somewhat mili- tary character, and might indeed have been not inaptly termed semi-military colonies. By their own voluntary labor the people of each neighborhood, when numerous enough, built what was dignified as a fort, a strong wooden stockade or block-house, entrenched, loop-holed, and sur- mounted with lookouts at the angles. Within this rude extemporised fortress ground enough was enclosed to allow room for huts or tents for the surrounding families when they should take refuge therein — a thing which continually occurred ; and, indeed, it was often the case, that the Fort became a permanent home for the women and children, while the men spent their days in scouring the country, and tilling, with their slaves, lands within convenient reach ; at night betaking themselves to the stronghold for the society and protection of their families, as well as for their own safety. Well do I remember the lai'ge, level old field in my maternal grandfather's plantation, which in ray early boyhood, was still noted as having been the site of one of those forts. Also the creek near by took its name from the Fort, and w^as and is still called Fort Creek. My grand-father, however, a fresh emigrant from Virginia, did not like this mode of life for his wife and children, and established them for two years to the east of the Ogeechee in what was then Columbia county, wdiilst he with his negroes cleared land, made crops and faced the Indians in Hancock, or rather in what was THE OCONEE WAR. 9 then Washington county. For in February, 1784, the Leg- ishature, acting upon the treaties to wliich I have alluded, made at Augusta the year previous, passed a law throwing open to settlers the whole of the new acquired country from the Altamaha to the mountains, and forming it into two vast counties, Washington and Franklin, whose huge size was afterwards, from time to time, diminished by carving out new counties, among them Hancock. Thus W^ashing- ton and Franklin, originally twin, coterminous counties, became disparted, and now an hundred intervening miles lie between them. But no length of time or width of space will ever dissociate the great and venerable names they bear. OHA^l^TER II. THE OCONEE WAK CONTINUED. This rancorous Indian broil lasted with many vicissitudes and various degrees of violence for some dozen years before it was finally extinguished by the treaty of Colraine in June, 1796. All the while too it was intimately complicated with an obstinate territorial quarrel between the United States and Spain, growing out of their conflicting claims of sove- reignty to the entire Indian country west of the Chattahoo- chee : Spain claiming as her own all the region occupied by the Creeks and other tribes between that river and the Mississippi, upon the ground of having reconquered the province of West Florida from Great Britain during the Revolutionary war, — which re-conquest, as contended by her, covered all that country at least, if not much more. From this antagonistic Spanish claim sprang Spanish tam- perings with the Indians against us, the result from which, and from the hard, injurious treatment the Indians thought they had received from Georgia by the treaty of Augusta 10 THE OCONEE WAR. and tlie seizure of the Oconee lauds, was that the Creek nation precipitately, in 1*784, transferred to Spain in prefer- ence to the United States that allegiance or rather adherence that had just dropped from the vanquished hands of Great Britain. Their Supreme Chief, McGillivray, greatly in- censed hy said treaty of Augusta and the proceedings of Georgia thereon, hastened to Pensacola as both sovereign and ambassador, and formed with the creatures of Spain there what was called a treaty of Alliance and Friendship, subjecting his people and country absolutely to the Spanish yoke and sceptre. It is impossible to peruse this document without being amazed at the excessive subjugation it stipu- lates, so unlike anything in our Indian treaties, and the con- viction seizes upon the mind that a villainous fraud was practised by the Spaniards on McGillivray in the translation of it to him. For he was a stranger at that time to their language, though master both with his tongue and pen of ours. It can hardly be doubted that he became aware after- wards of the atrocious cheat that had been perpetrated upon him. But he hid the disparaging discovery in his own proud, politic bosom, at the same time silently ignoring and annulling by all his action the false, unstipulated matter foisted by the S[)aiiiards into the treaty.* For he was alto- gether too shrewd to make proclamation of his having been their dupe ; a thing which Avould have damaged him deeply * American State Papers — Foreign Affairs — J'oL l,p. 278. —Where ihis ex- traordinary treaty will be found at length signed by McGillivray alone on the part of the Indians. In the treaty is contained a statement that McGillivray was made accjuainted with its contents by "a literal and exact translation which was reduced by Don Juan Joseph Duforrett, Captain of the militia of Louisiana and Interpreter of the English Idiom lor his Majesty in said Pro- vince." The existence of this treaty soon became a fact well known, and was, indeed, never intended to be concealed. That its precise character and contents, however, were kept secret for a long time is apparent from a diplomatic letter of our C'ommissioner.eal, sec Watkiiis' Digest of the Laws of Georgia — 304, 371. *"Tallassee" is the name applied to this country by our Legislature in the Art of December "JSth, 1701. — Watlimt' Digest, 551 — Sec same jlrl. .'hncrirun Shile Paj)ers, In/linn ^rlfjairs, J'vl. ]st, r)5l,r)52. ]\i various other places in the State Papers where mention is made of this country, it is called Talassee. But Mr. Jetl'eison in his annual message to Congress of December. ISC-'. calls it the Tallahassee country. In old Indian times of the last century the name belonged to the largest and most important of the political Districts into wliich the Creek, or, as it is styled in the treaty of Pensacola, the Tallapouchee nation was divided. It is the lirst unmed District in that treaty, and is men- tioned there as consisting ol four towns. It undoubtedly embraced at that time an area much larger than the (Ralphinton cession. All, indeed, of South Eastern Georgia, except tlie old countii-s of Clynn and Camden, aiul the larger part, if not the whole of Southern and Southwestern Georgia, was compre- hended in it; much likewise of Middle Florida— a fact recognized by the Floridians in the name they have bestowed on their capital. The Indians seem to have been greatly attached as well to the name as to that part of their country that bore it. Hence, McGillivray christened his chief residence on the Coosa "Little Tallassee," aiul the beautiful spot at the foot of the lirst falls of the Tallapoosa river was called Tallassee, — a name it bears to this day. '-Gal. phinton" was a famous old Indian trading post on the Ogeechee some dozen miles below Louisville. '^Shoulderbone'' is the great creek of Hancock conn' ty. — For the Treaties, see IVatkins, and Marbury ^- Crawford's Digests. THE OCONEE WAR. 13 year another treaty was needed, and in 1*786 that of Should- erbone was made reaffirming the cessions of Augusta and Galphinton. All tliree of tliese treaties were transactions of Georgia alone with the Indians. The United States was neither a party to them nor had anything to do with them, and tlieir elVeet was rather to deepen and exasperate than to extinguish or appease enmity. The Indians charged that they were sheer frauds, contrived by Georgia Avith persons of their tribe falsely pretending to have authority to treat. After much investigation at a subsequent period by Commis- sioners of the United States, a conclusion favorable to the fairness and authenticity of these treaties was I'eached.* The main thing, undoubtedly, which impaired them in Indian eyes was the exj)ecting of aid from Spain in resisting them, and the belief that Georgia would be unable to enforce tliem against the combined Indian and Spanish opposition. For savages, not unlike civilized jieople, are very much in- clined, when under the influence of strong passions or inte- rests, to trample on good faith and the sanctity of compacts^ unless deterred by the dread which superior power on the adverse side is apt to inspire. Hence hostilities continued to rage, not the less, perhaps even the more, on account of these abortive attempts at pacification ; and there is no tell- ing what might not have been the disastrous upshot, had not the new Federal Constitution been adopted, and under it a new government started in 1789 for our young Federal Republican nation, strong enough to inspire the Indians with a salutary fear, and clothed with the whole war-making and treaty-making power; and also with the absolute control over all Indian as well as all foreign affairs. By this wise and happy concentration, all the reins over the subject, as well in its Indian as its Spanish aspect, were gathered into one great, commanding, national grasp, and were from thenceforth handled in unison, and with abundant judgment, skill and success. For from the very outset of his administration, Washing- * American State Papers — Indian Affairs, Vol. 1st, 616. 14 THE OCONEE "WAR. ton, from liis lofty stand point at the head of the Goverment, and witli his large, well-poised, well-braced mind, long versed in great, perilous and perplexed affairs, surveyed the whole field, and ke]it it cleai-ly beneath his eye. He saw in all their magnitude and complication, the difficulties of the case witli whicli he had to deal, ;u)d set a-i)()iit overcoming them witli characteristic Avisdom, justice and statesman,shi[). He found the negotiations in which tlie defunct (iovernment^of the Confedei'ation had l)een engaged Avith Sj)ain in an ex- ceedingly unpromising state, nor were the })ros])eets in that quarter much bettered during the first years of his own governance. For Spain was at that ])eriod still one of the ])roudest, most powerful and self-sufficient monarchies of the world, and had evideiilly made up her mind to yield nothing and exact everything in this dispute with a ncw- })orn, poor and feeble country. And certainly she was not far wrong in supposing the United States were at that time in no condition for taking strong measures against her, and she feared not to im{)inge upon tlie ver}' confines of inso- lence in some (»f her diplomatic passages with us. Seeing, therefore, no near or flattering prospect of getting rid of the Indian war and its numerous attendant ills by sapi)ing the Spanish foundation on which if mainly stood, Wasliington })roceeded very soon to address himself in the most direct and effectual manner to the Indians themselves. He determined to try what could be done to dissolve their S})anish ties and bring them under an American Protecto- rate. To this end he resorted to the best and most hopeful means. Early in 17*.iO he dispatched from New York, then the Federal capital, a distingiiish.ed and singularly suitable man, well known to him, Col. JMarinus VVillet, upon a con- fidential mission into the Creek nation, accredited to McGil- livray. Colonel Willet's instructions were to pi'cvail on McGillivray and the other great Chiefs to send a delegation, headed by TdcGillivray himself, to New York to confei" and treat with Washington, face to face. The mission was suc- cessful, and Col. Willet returned to New York accompanied THE OCONEE AVAR. 15 bv McGillivray and his head men, representing the more hostile element of the nation. It was undoubtedly the most important and imposing Indian embassy that ever visited our Go\'ernment, and they were received and treated every where along the route and in New York with extraordinary distinction and attention. They remained a good Avhile in that city. Many conferences and lalks were held, and the result was the ti-eaty of New York, concluded on the Vth of August, 17'JO, negotiatcil by Gen. Knox, Secretary at War, under the immediate eye and direction of Washington. By its stipulations the Creeks accepted fully the ])rotection of the Unit*^! States to tlie exclusion of Spain and all other powers, and hound themselves not to enter into any treaty or compact with any of the States or any individuals or for- eign country. They also agreed to abide by the Altamaha and Oconee as their dividing line, following the latter stream along its westernmost branch to its source. Our Govern- ment, on its jiart, restored to them the Tallassee country, and also guaranteed the same and all their remaining lands to them ibrever against all the W(U-ld. A treaty more cardinal, consequential, and even revoluticmary in its character, could hardly be imagined. Upon it as upon a hinge, the Creek nation swung around completely and at once into those natural relations with the United States which its in- terests dictated, but which had been passionately rejected at the close of the Revolutionary war for a Spanish alliance and sulijugation. It was undoubtedly in gross conflict with the treaty of Pensacola, and it could not but have the effect of "Creating an early crisis of the most decisive kind between Spain and the United States, wdiilst it certainly involved the Creeks themselves in a position not a little embarrassing be- tween those two powers. It was a compact, however, on the whole not less wise and well considered than highly important, and having been concluded and solemnly perfected by the signatures of Gen. Knox and twenty-four great Chiefs, and the attestation of the Indian National Interpreter and several of our own most 16 THE OCONEE WAR. distinguished men, the work of the Creek dek^gation was done; and now, loaded witli presents and assurances of friendslii]), they w(^re ready witli tlieir train of attendants to depart for their far distant ►Southern hunting grounds. But their hmg and diversified ambassadorial tour from the heart of their own country over land to New York through so many States, towns and cities was destined to be strikingly contrasted ))y the character of the homeward journey that was in store for them, by the monotonous, though deeply im- pressive sea voyage arranged for them by Washington over ten parallels of Latitude Irom New Yoi'k to St. Mary's, — a mode of returning they were led to i)r('fer by certain ])olitic ideas as well as by somewhat of cuiiosity. For they wished lor some ocular knowledge of that mighty ocean to wliich McGillivray had been long attracting their thoughts by say- ing they ought to have a free trading outlet to it at the mouth of the St. Mary's, — and especially were they desirous of seeing and knowing for themselves that oft commended harbor and outlet. Hence, mainly their disposition to go home by water, for little cared they for the considerations of mere greater ease and expedition that were held out to them. Ohl Neptune, well pleased, grew serene at beholding them, and greeted with smiles that beamed over the ocean his strange new visitants — nature's erect, still unsubdued sons and stoic lords of the woods. And well might he look gra- ciously on the novel and interesting array they presented to his view. For never before or since, in all his reign, has it been given him, nor may he hope it will ever be given him again, to lift his storm-quelling Trident aloft over his li(p»id realm in pro})itious behalf of such another cargo of travel- ers on its billowy bosom as these stern, turbaned, plaided, buskined heroes and kings of 1he new world's yet unviolated wilds, their hearts full of homage to himself, and their aspect filling with wonderment his Tritons and Nereides and all his other subject "blue haired" deities of the deej). Arrived at St. Mary's they (juitted without regret the noble sea ship, which it was certain nevertheless they THE OCONEE WAR. lY would always remember with admii'ing love and honor, and, transfei-red to smaller craft, wended their way slowly up the tortuous river to the famous old frontier Indian trading- post of Colraine. And now they soon stood once more on that beloved ancestral soil which they had just recovered hack to tlieir nation, large, level- lying Tallassee, a land of \ni\e trees and the cypress, dismal emblem of death, though itself so impervious to decay; of the hardy perennial wire-grass, nutritious to cattle and deer ; of ever-green oaks, and the also ever-green stately magnolia, glorious in the middle and high u])per air, its aspiring branches and lofty top resplendent with grand, shining, aromatic white flowers; aland, too, abounding in game of the forest and fisli and wild fowl ; swarming with the honey bee likewise with its generous stores of melliflu- ous wealth wonderously elaborated from millions of wood- land leaves and blossoms ; and scai'cely less alive with wolves, wild cats, bears and tigers ;* washed along its Nortliern border by the broad, poetic Altama,t swarap- *''Tigers" was the name formerly given to panthers in this part of Georgia and is still their name in East Florida. t "Altama" is Goldsmith's poetic coiilraction for the Altamaha, formed by the confluence of the Oconee and Ocmulgee. .SVf his beautiful poem of"'rhe De- serted Village" written more than an hundred years ago, at a time when the emigration of the virtuous poor from Great Britain to the young colony of Georgia was at its height. The tide of emigration had been setting, when the poem was written, very strongly to the lower banks of the Altamaha, and among the emigrants there were not a few who ultimately rose to fortune and founded families and left names which are a pride and honor to the State. Here are the tine lines — which our great river, and its scenery and reputation — called forth in a strain graphic and powerful, though in some respects exag- gerated and erroneous ; "All, no ! To distant climes, a dreary scene, Where half the convex world intrudes between, Tlirougli torrid tracts with tainting steps they go. Where wild Alt:inia niuruuirs to their woe. Ptir diQereut there from all that charmed before, The various terrors of that horrid shore : Those blazing suns that dart a downward ray. And fiercely shed intolerable day ; Those matted woods where birds forget to slug, But silent bats in drowsy clusters cling ; Those })ois'nons fields with rank luxuriance crown'd, Where the dark scorpion gathers death around ; Where at each step the stranger fears to wake 18 The OCONEE war. en gloomed river, lonely and austere, recoiling from tlie sea, reluctant and sad to be so far estranged alike in space, in scenery, and in name from all its sweet highland springs; whilst on the otlier, its southern side, tlie Immaculate Vir- gin Mother's sacred stream laved it with unfailing waters, ever distilling from the vast and secret Okeefeenokee. * The rattling tenors of the vengeful snake ; Wliere crouching tigers wait tlieir hapless prey, And savage men more nuird'rous still than thej' ; While oft in wiiirls the mad tornado flies. Mingling the ravag'd landscape witii tlie skies. Far different tliese from every former scene, The cooling hrook, tlie grassy- vested green, Tlie breezy covert of the warbling grove, Tliat only shelterM thefts of liarniless love.'' The river's riamn pronounced in the usual manner with a light accent on the first syllable and a full, strong one on the last, thus Aw1-tu-iitii-liaw, sounds very like an Indian word ; and yet quite surely it is not of Indian, but of Span- ish parentage. It is an interesting lact, reHecting light on the lirst exploration of the State, and clearing up a part of its history otherwise o!)scure. that so many of the Atlantic rivets ol (rcorgia have the Spanish stamp on their names, — as the St. Mary's, the (jreat and Little St Ilia, the Altamalia, and last, and if possible, plainest of all, the Savannah. For no one can ascend that stream from the sea, or stand on the edge of the bluff, which the city occupies, or oil the top of its ancient Exchange, (which may fire, and war, and tempest, and the tooth of time, and the felon hand of improvement long spare,) and over- look the vast e.xpanse of flat lands that spread out on both sides ot the river, forming in winter a dark, in summer a green, in autumn a saffron contrast to its bright, intersecting waters, without knowing at once that from these plainsi these savannas, the river got its name, derived from the Spanish language and the Spanish word sabanna, — and that it was baptized with the christian, though not saintly name it bears, by Spanish discoverers just as certainly as the great grassy planes in South America owed their name of Savannas to the same na- tional source. The ease of the Altamaha is equally liee from doubt, though not so selfevident on the first glance. It comes from the old, now disused Spanish word Allaviia, pronounced Jiltainceah, signifying a deep earthen plate or dish of whatever form ; a name naturally enough suggested b)' the charac- ter and aspect, deep, broad, still, of the lower end of the river, probably the only part the Spaniards had seen when they christened it, and which doubtless looked to them much like a hiigh, longitudinal dish kept brimful rather by stag- nation of its waters and impulse Irom the sea than by large, evertlowing sup- plies from an unknown interior. * The Okeefeenokee far outsizes all the swamps of the world. Even that great Serbonian Bog, celebrated by Milton, "ISetvvixt Damiata and Mount Cassias old Where armies whole have sunk !" was small in comparison. In old times when Morse's earlier editions were still authority in the Geography of the United States, three hundred miles was THE OCONEE WAU. 19 The stalwart, taciturn Cliiefs rejoiced to traverse anew, with noiseless footfall, the great woody expanse, now profaned and denaturalized by railroads, then only threaded by the tiny, interminable Indian trail, ibr Avhich no tree had to be felled or eartli removed; and they exulted to know it again as their country's unquestioned domain, rechxiuied from the Gal- l)hinton cession and grasp of Georgia by that treaty of Kew York which their talks had demanded and their hands had signed. But just as was their exultation and important as was the toe territory they had regained, their wild counti'ymen were far iVom being satisfied. They had gotten back very much, it was true, but not mucli more than one-half, in supposed value at least, of what they had eagerly insisted upon and expected. Nor were the Georgians better content. Notliing indeed could more strikingly show how difficult and malig- nant the state of things was, and how stul)boi'n were tlie obstacles which JSpanish interference with the Indians and the bitter tein[)er of Georgia towards tliem threw in tlie way, than the fact that tlie combined names of Washington and iMcGillivray, corroboi-ated by tlie strong necessities of the case and the plainest dictates of policy, availed not to render the treaty acceptable to either side. The Georgians, althoiigli they had gotten by it the whole of the so much coveted Oconee country, recalcitrated because it retroceded to the Indians the above named Tallassee country between the Altamaha and ^St. Mary's, and also because of its ])er- petual guarantee to tliem of all their remaining unceded territory. And although the Indians had gotten this guar- the supposed circumference of the Okeefeenokee. Modern scepticism has les- sened it one-half, I believe; but it is mere guess work. Its impenetrable recesses defy the compass and chain, and its outer boundary if not immeasurable, has at least never been measured. The St. Mary's is not the only river it feeds. It is also the birth place of the Suwanee, a river flowing into the Gulf, the present name of which is a corruption of the Spanish San Juan, ^Inglice, St. John. The St. Johns of the English and of this day was the St. Matheo of the Spaniards. — Bancroft's Hist. U. S., Vol. 1, p. 61. It may well enhance our sense of the grandeur of the Okeefeenokee that it should be the matrix of two such rivers as the St. Mary's and the Suwanee. 20 THE OCONEE WAR. antee, of which they were so desirous, and had also gotten back the Tallassee country on which tliey laid so much stress as an indispensable winter hunting ground, and likewise on account of its convenience to the sea, by the short navigation of the St. Mary's, yet they were ill-humored because they did not also get back the rich gore of land in the fork of the Oconee and Apalachee. Indeed, McGillivray acquiesced most reluctantly in this feature of omission in the treaty, and save fair notice at the time of the dissatisfaction it would cause in his nation. Under all these circumstances tlie treaty led not to an entire restoration of j)eace, to not much more indeed than a feverish lull of the war. Do[)redations and occasional outbreaks of hostility continued to occur and to impart an uneasy ill-natured threatening as})ect to our Creek Indian affairs. Washington, than whom no man ever understood better the art of temporizing wisely or knew better when the pre- cise moment to strike and for decisive action had come, was in no hurry by precipitating things, to endanger the chances which he saw brightening for the propitious settlement of the whole trouble, Spanish and Indian, at one time and by one blow. For now the French Revolution had broken out, and Spain and most of the powers of Europe began soon to be drawn within its vortex or to tremble on its verge, aghast at its fierce gyrations and direful portents. Meantime, Washington kept alive his negotiations and grew more posi- tive and urgent as the clouds thickened around Spain in Europe. Yet he was free from hot haste. For he saw that the mighty chapter of accidents which God alone peruses and overrules was now in rapid evolution and likely to throw forth opportunities felicitous for his country in this and other important matters. So he persisted in biding his time and nursing the negotiation, notwithstanding the impatient pressure upon him from Georgia for greater energy and celerity in his measures. At length the European distresses and perils of Spain reached a crisis so urgent and menacing as made her feel it madness to enhance her other ills bv our OCONEE WAR. 21 enmity, and convinced her how (itterly ho})eless it was to con- tinue to jM'ess longer lier vast tenitorial ]irotensions against lis, under tlie very sliadow of our gigantic and now thriity and rapidly growing young Ivepublic. In the midst of this ci'isis, well knowing as she did, tliat the claim of the United States was one that could by no ])ossihility ever be surreii- dei'ed whilst men and muskets reuuiincd to us, she made a merit of the necessity which it was useless for licr longer to resist, and in October, 1795, entered into tlie treaty of ^^an Lorenzo, ceding to us all her claims on tliis side of the Mis- sissij)|)i to the north of the 31 st parallel and west of the Chattahoocliee. At the same time confirming the old boun- dary from the confluence of that I'ivei" witli the Flint east- wardly to tlie mouth of the St. Mary's, thns surrendering, on account of the distresses of lier own situation, Avhat slie never would have yielded up to a sense ot our lights; a loss little memorable, Innvevcr, by tlie side of tlie stu])endous sacrifice she was soon aftei-wards forced to make of her iiu- mense and s[)lendid l*rovinco of Louisiana to the bcnmdless ambition and rapacity of France. With this cession by Spain of her cherished claim to all the Lulian Territory that bad been in contest between her- self and the United States, went her pretensions to a pro- tectorate and sovereignty over the Indians themselves whicli w^eie founded solely on that claim. Tlie Indians were there- fore now left to themselves and to us without any chance of foreign aid or exposure to foieign interference or instigation for the future. Every consequence desirable on oui- side followed now easily and almost of course. Tbe root of mis- chief had been exterminated. Friendly tem})ers and dispo- sitions on the part of the Indians towards us had only to be duly courted and cultivated on our part in order to insure their rapid development and grovuth. Soon the fruit of a ]_)ermanent Indian peace was fully in our reach, inviting our grasp, and ready to drop into our hands as the natural sequel of the happy Spanish adjustment that had taken place. It had required nearly the whole length of Washington's 22 THE OCONEE WAR. Administration from its first year to its last to bring things to this point, — to manage and snccessfnlly settle tins its great Southern Spanish-Indian tronhle. But he finally brought it to an auspicious termination. By the treaty of Colraine, concluded as we have seen in the summer of 1*796, the last year of the last term of his Presidency, the bound- aries stipulated at New York were recognized and reaffirmed, and the seal w^as put to a longed-for and lasting peace, and our horizon cleared at length of every boding Indian cloud. For both Georgians and Indians had by this lime become educated and reconciled to those boundaries and were never again disposed to quarrel about them; a teni})er of mind in a large degree induced by Washington's immense weight of character with both sides, and by their natural feeling of sub- mission to the grandeur of the power, which he represented and wielded. All whicli however might have failed of such early and full effect on the Indians, but for the disheartening fact which stared them in the face, that the territory to the east of the Oconee and its prongs for which they had been contending, was already hopelessly lost to them, having become, during the contention, filled up and occupied by a population more than able and intensely determined to hold and defend it aji'ainst them forever. ALEXANDER M GILLIVRAY. CHAPTER III. ALEXANDER McGILLIVRAY. Tluis long liave I, yit!l*nn2; to a just love and partiality for tlie section of Georgia in wliicli I was born and in wliicli the bones of my forefathers repose, lingered and dwelt on the troublons and important interval of time wliich elapsed from its first acquisition and settlement down to its final ])acirication. And, moreover, it is a portion of the history (^f tlie State well worthy, on its own account, to be recalled and remembered, for it records a great step, — a striking epoch in her progress and devclo})ment. But it is impossi- ble not to be conscious that the scenes and events of that period have had their full day on the world's st^age and in men's minds, and now not only have they passed off from both, but there is no longer a generation living whose blood could be made to tingle at their recital. And yet to me, long accustomed to cherish dearly the memories and tradi- tions of my native soil, it has often seemed that in this pro- tracted, fitful, frontier war for the lordshi[) of the Oconee lands, there was much in regard both to the actors and the things enacted on which the mind might dwell not unre- warded, and which Georgians at least ought not willingly to let go down to oblivion. Particularly lias it struck me that connected witli this w;ir there was a signal circumstance, which rendered it excep- tional and ennobled it among Indian wars. The' proud fact, I mean, that it was the theatre on which was conspicuously displayed one of those infrequent, extraordinary characters that history loves to contemplate^ and which, however they may specially belong to some one people, sector class, during 24 ALEXANDER m'QILLIVRAY. tlieir active, living career, become the large and general property of mankind when dead. Such a character was Alex, JMcGilliviay, hy all odds the foremost man of" Indian hloodand raising that Anglo-Amer- ica has ever seen ; one who was universally allowed ?ind felt in his day to be the very soul of the Creek nation, which was almost absolutely swayed by his genius and will. And he it remembered, that it was not a petty, confined tribe that was thus swayed by him, and swayed, too, in a manner and with an ability Avliich struck eiilighteneut he was arrested by death in the midst of these high and beneficent machinations, and at a time, too, when he was apparently under a cloud. If his life had been prolonged, time would probably, however, have vindicated liis strategy and his control over events, and it is likely that a brighter sun and a broader and more brilliant horizon would hiive beamed out upon him than he had ever known. With en- dowments such as distinguished him, with such a prestige as he had with the Indians of his own and all the neigh- boring tribes, and his strong, easy influence over them, for- tune could hardly have continued lastingly untractable to- wards him. His authority with his people had a vitality which reached beyond his life. Whilst the tone of the Creek nation went down considerably from the time of his death, yet for years afterwards the subtle influence that had long emanated from him and ruled in Creek affairs, survived him and continued to be felt. Particularly was it an ele- ment along with the nameof Washington and other causes that gradually led his countrymen to become reconciled to the long distasteful treaty of New York, for which he was respons^ile as its almost sole negotiator and author on the Indian side, — his brother Chiefs having been not much more than machines in his hands in that great piece of In- dian diplomacy. If ever there shall arise a wxird pen fitted to deal with such a subject, it will find in this man's character and career a theme full of inspiration and demanding all its 28 ALEXANDER m'GILLIVRAY. j>o\ver. The fablfd centaur of antiquity, tliat marvelous conception of the luiniau, united with the equine form and nature, was but a fiction, thou^li one full of richest mean- ing. The scarcely less wonderful union of the civilized with the savap;e man in Alexander McGillivray was a hard, tan- gible reality, the most felicitous comjiound of the kind ever seen. Both by lineage and education he was heir to the two natures, wliioh co-existed in him seemingly without con- flict and with great force and harmony of development. In youth he had what Washington and Franklin had, a common English education, sufHcient to enable him as them in after life to impress on all men a strong sense of the great- ness which nature had bestowed^ and which ((U'tune and cir- cumstances exercised to the utmost and biought out fully to the world's view. The shrewdness, the robust sense and crude force of the Scotch Highland Chieftain were l)lended in hira with calm Indian subtlety and intensity, and the in- nate dignity of the ]\Tuscogee warrior statesman. He had great ambition, great abilities, and what is most of all, atid the true imjierial sign of greatness, he had great jiower of influencing and controlling men on a large scab' and in great affairs. What an outgrowth of civilization on what a stock of barbarism ! Like most very strong natui'es, he was strong at once by his virtues and talents, which weie great and many, and by his vices, Avhich were few but ivU- ing, though not deformed by Indian ferocity, (for he was a stranger to the thirst for blood, and his breast was the seat of humanity) whilst all his (jualities, good and bad, were a[»t to his situation and the necessities of the part he had to ]day. It has been ssiid, more daringly than reverently oi- truly, that it took nature a gestation of a thousand years to ]»roduce a Napoleon Bonajiarte. The gi'cat mother of us all ought not to be thus slurred in order to aild to the renown of one of her sons. But this much is certainly true : Long intervals often occur without witnessing an}'- of those extra- ordinary conjunctures, which are necessary to the production and manifestation of great and extraordinary men, and it is ALEXANDER m'gILLIVRAY. 29 not by any means probable that the world will soon again have the opportunity^ of beholding the like of General Mc- Uillivray. For to this end, there must happen the con})ling of another man isneh as him with a fortune and cireumstances as |)eeulia,r and to pi-esent him lully. 8he has onlj^ preserved and spread betore us the last half, or it may be less than the last half, ol' liis i)ublic active career. When she first takes him up and makes him li(>r theine, to-wit : at the opening of the Creek troubles with Georgia, soon after tlie Revolutionary wai",]!e was already in the maturity of his greatness, and at the pinnacle of [)0wer. Of the length of time he had been there, of the steps and means, by wliicii he had risen so liigh, and the talents and conduct by wliich he had sustained and il- lustrated himself in that elevation, there is not, tliere never was, any record, so far as T have been able to find out, and all traditii.n in relation thereto, has long since eith<>r perished or become a})oci-yphal, except the general fact of his having at one time served under his father as a deputy in the Brit- ish Indian Agency during the Revolutionary war — with the titular rank of a British Colonel.* His father was a Georgian, Lacklan McGillivray, who came in early youth from Scotland and was among those, Avho, in the Revolutionary war, sided strongly with Great Britain. He was a leading Indian trader, a man of property and consc'([uence, and his name appears in the acts of confis- cation and banishment passed by Georgia. His mother was a principal Creek woman of striking personal charms, * American Stale Papers, Indian Jlffairs, '2d Vol., 788. 30 ALEXANDER M GILLIVRAY. heightened, it is said, by sonic French blood in her veins, and he himself was a Georgian born. The circnnistances of his parentage and breeding wouhl natnrally have carried him into the ranks of the enemies of the IState. Bnt tradi- tion and written accounts alike inform ns that it was his father's banishment apd the confiscation of his father's estate that envenomed his heart and tilled it with deep, vin- dictive hatred of Georgia and her people. Notwithstanding which, Georgia may well feel some jiride that sucli a man was her son, whom destiny, not his own fault ur crime, made her enemy. For he who devotes himself ably, patri- otically, unflinchingly and untiringly in the higher and more perilons spheres of service to the cause of his conntiy's sal- vation, unimportant though that country may be in the world's mouth or mind, merits the homage of mankind and even of those against whom he has devoted himself in such a cause. He died on the 17th of Februai-y, 17')o, a peaceful death on civilized soil, whilst, a visitor at Pensacola among those (Spanish friends and allies with whom he had long l)een ac- customed to work and ]dot against us, whom at the same time he too shrewdly understood, and too profoundly fath- omed, not to see that there was reason why he should watch them closely and make a fiiend of the United States against them. And yet, as if fate had decreed that in everything and to tlie very last there slunild be something renuirkable and out of the common course in regard to him, this man, whom nature and fortune had concurred to make great, dy- ing there on S})anish soil, was spurned when dead by Span- ish religion and denied burial in their sacred ground* by those who had courted and magnified him Avhile living, and was left to be obscurely interred by private and profane hands in the garden ol' his Scotch friend, Panton, the great Indian trader, where doubtless all trace of his grave has long since vanished, and the spot will be forever unknown, which inhumes the once famous and potential Alexander * American State Papers, Indian Jiff airs, Jot. 1, 382. ALEXANDER mVuLLIVRAY. 31 McGillivray, Wliat a contrast to tlie treatnient of tlie aged and distinguished Ciioctaw Chief Puslunataha, who, dying at Wasliington in 1824, not only found an honored grave in tlic Congressional burying ground with monumental stone and iuscri[»tion, but whose dying wish, "when I am gone, let the big guns be fired over me," was touchingly fulfilled by the booming of minute guns IVom Ca[)itol Hill, the roar of cannon over his grave and all the accompanying pomps and glories of a grand and crowded public funeral.* But the indignant sliade of McGillivray was not left long dis- consolate under tliis pooi- Spanish sliglit. Precious amends came soon to S()othe and re({uite. The news of his death, traveling by way of the Havana and Baltimore, reached Washington in the latter city en route to Mount Vernon to enjoy there a few days' re[)Ose from tiie toils of the Presi- dency. Tbat great nature which ever discerned and honored stei'ling worth and true nobilit}^ of mind and character wherever they existed, in whomsdover of human found, liad recognized these qualities in McGillivray and felt his kindred to himself. He felt consequently his death, and on arriving at Mount Vernon wrote to Gen. Kiu)x informing him of tlie event and calling the deceased their friend. When we re- member AvJiat ample and identical opportunities Gen. Wash- ington and Gen. Knox had botli had of knowing McGilli- vray Avt'll, and how chary Wasliington always was of praise, anurk's L iff and IVrifiir^s of IVnshiiig/oit, Vul. l'2.p. 4"J1, 4.'!1. 64 COLONEL HAWKINS. and managing their aifaij-s generally.* The attempt to ne- gotiate a treaty with the Creeks proved abortive from many causes, at the bottom of whicli lay tlieir entanglement Avith Spain by the treaty of Pensacola, and their difficulties with Georgia, which had the effect of keeping them aloof in a hostile mood, until that master stroke of Washington in IT'JO, which eventuated in tlie treaty of New York, by which the Creeks placed themselves in like relations to us with the other thi'ee tribes. Col. Hawkins' senatoiial term ended on the 4th of March, T7'i5. Before its expiration Washington, who had witnessed witli regret, that the treaty of New York had only partially j)roduced the fruits of peace expected from it, but who now saw his anxious policy of thorough Indian pacification verg- ing towards full triumph, fixed his eyes on the long known, well tried North Carolina Senator, as the fittest man to take charge oJf the well-advanced work of conciliation, and then, also, after it should be wound up auspiciously, to crown and secure it by becoming the permanent agent for Indian a!"- fairs among the Creeks. Col. Hawkins' family, one of the most numerous, influen- tial and ambitious in his State, was very averse to his em- bracing such views. Wheeler, in his history of North Caro- lina, to whom I am indebted for many interesting things in this sketch, is emphatic upon their opposition, f for which several good reasons are given, such as his wealth, his high education and culture, his great advantages of family and social and political position, the strong hold he already pos- sessed in North Carolina, his flattering future there, &c., &c. The historian, however, does not even attempt any reasons why all these considerations failed to prevent him from yielding to Washington's wishes. And yet, these reasons, at even this distant day, may be easily divined. Col. Haw- kins, as we have seen, had been much among the Indians 'See fhesc Treaties in the Appendix to Watkin's Digefl and Mnrbnry ^ Craw- ford's Digest of the Laws of Georgia. "fSec Title ^'Warren County.^' COLONEL HAWKINS. 65' officially ; he had penetrated the mighty forests which hid them, and seen and ohserved them amid their vast unculti- vated woods ; he had heen brought in close contact and con- verse with them under circumstances which presented them in tlieir most impressive points of view. He had thus got- ten to feel deeply interested in them and to be strongly af- fected hy tJia^ Indian fasci)iatio7i which thousands, both be- fore and after him, have, experienced, without being able to understand and interpret it. Whatever it may be, or how- ever it may be explained, it is certainly something so pow- erful and touching, as hardly ever to die away wholly from minds upon which it has once laid its spell : — And particu- larly in the case of such noble savage races as the Creeks and Cherokees, it always generated a feeling of the most lively sort in all who happened to become well acquainted with them in a kindly way in their own beautiful country. Behold iiere the true, though subtle cause of those ^feelings and that bias of mind which mainly actuated Col. Hawkins in accepting the Creek Agency, and not only in accepting it, but in making its life-long duties a labor of love to him and a source of high moral and intellectual occupation and en- joyment. It was this generous, intense fitness of the soul to the task on which he entered which, added to his other happy qualifications, made hira such a wonderful exemplar of what an United States Agent and proconsul should be, for the greatest, proudest, most warlike and jealous ot all our Indian tribes. His coup de 'ensai in this new service was the treaty of Col- raine, negotiated in 1796, and which, also, as we have seen, was a coup de maitre. It was a much needed supplement to the treaty of New York, curing entirely all the wounds which, notwithstanding that treaty, had continued, more or less, to bleed and fester. At this point then began, and thus propitiously opened, Col. Hawkins' long, benign and exceedingly responsible official career, in connection with that formidable, but at length conciliated Indian people, with whose history his name was about to become identified in a manner so honorable to himself and to human nature. 66 COLONEL HAAVKINS. He had a jurisdiction wliicli, in tlie ex(eul. of teiiitoi^v it embraced, was scarcely less tlian imperial. Starting from the St. Mary's, far down towards the sea, the line ran di- rectly across to the Altamaha, dividinor the Tallassee coun- try from the seaboard counties of Georgia. On striking the Altamalia^ it turned up and along tlie western bank of that river and the Oconee, to the High Shoals of the Apallachy, where it intersected the Cherokee line ; then turning west- wardly, it followed that line through Geoi-gia and Alabama till the Choctaw line was reachedin Mississij)}>i ; then south- erly, down that line to the 31st parallel; then along that parallel to the Chattahoochee; thence to that river's junction with the Flint, thence to the head of the St. JMarys, and thence along that stream to the point of beginning. An im- mense region than which, as a whole, there is Udue finer under the sun, stretching more than four hundred miles from East to West and two hundred from North to South. This wide and greatly favored region became tlience forward the scene of his labors, and to it and nature's unsophisticated children who roamed over it, and to all his duties to them and to the neighboring civilized people, he at once applied himself with that high moral sense and generous solicitude which noble minds always feel for great interests committed to their charge. From the outset he studied the people and their country, and accomplished himself in all knowledge appertaining to the one and the other. And hc»re the ad- vantages, growing out of his fine early educalion and out of the intellectual tastes, quickness and inquisitivenesss which were its fruits, stood out to view and served him in double stead, prompting and enabling him to become at once more thoroughly and variously qualified for the multiform duties of his station, and availing him also as a source of private enjoyment and mental support and comfort in his self- decreed ofiicial exile. Nor was it with the mind only that he labored, but with the pen also, and so perseveringly as to leave behind him a great amount of manuscripts coDceruing he Creeks and the Creek country. Of these manuscripts,, COLONEL HAWKINS. 67 to which the public of that day attached great importance, and not without cau.se, judging i'rom such small pul)lished parts as have fallen under my eye, — a large [)ortion j)eri.shed in the burning of his house soon after his death. Another large portion esca|)ed the flames and were afterwards confi- ded to the Georgia Historical Society. But the great interest they once excited has long since become extinct, having gradually sunk along with the melancholy fortunes of the rude and reraarkaltle people to whom and to wliose coun- try those writings relate. Yet may it not be, that ran- sacked and studied hereafter in distant future times, they will furnish to some child of genius, yet to be born, much of material and inspiration for an immortal Indian e[)ic of whicli the woild will never tire. Under the faithful proconsular sway of Col. Hawkins, tlic Creek Indians enjoyed, ibr sixteen years, unbroken peace among themselves and with their neighbors, and also what- soever other blessings were possible to the savage state, which it was his study gradually to ameliorate. To this end he spared no pains. ]\Iuch was done to initiate, instruct and encourage them in the lower and most indispensable jiarts of civilization. Pasturage was brought into use, agriculture also, to some extent, both together supplanting considerably among them their previous entire reliance for food on hunt- ing, fishing and wild fruits. To the better and more secure modes of obtaining a livelihood which civilization offers, he sought to win them by example as well as by prcce])t. He brought his slaves from North Carolina, and under the right conceded to his office, he opened and cultivated a large plan- tation at the Agency on Flint river, making immense crops of corn and other provisions. He also reared great herds of cattle and swine, and having thus always abundance of meat and bread, he was enabled to practice habitually towards the Indians, a profuse, though coarse, hospitality and be- nevolence, which gained their hearts and bound them to him by ties as loyal and touching as those of old feudal allegi- ance and devotion. There was something in the vast scale 68 COLONEL HAWKlNg. and simple, primitive management of tliese,.his ftirmiiig and stock-raising interests, that carries the mind hack to the grand, princely, pastoral patriarchs^ of the Old Testament — to Ahraham,and Isaac, and Jacob, and Job. For' food his herds roamed the boundless forests and grew fat upon the caney bottoms and grass-bearing uplands, and the mast that fell from the trees, costing him nothing, save their marking, branding, salting and minding, services well per- formed by his fiiithful negroes and their Indian assistants. Tlie sanctity witli which the Indians, throughout the nation, regarded his cattle, was a beautiful trait in their relations to him. Whatever bore his mark or brand, was everywhere absolutely safe. He often had as many as five hundred calves at a time, to separate which Irom their dams, Flint river was used as a dividing fence, across which, that it might be used in this manner, he built a bridge, with a gate at each end. There of evenings at that bridge's western end, hundreds of lowing cows, returned from their day's wild pasturing, moaned wistfully to as many answering calves bleating from its eastern extremity. For he repudiated the lazy policy which to this day marks herdsmen as a class, who with great droves of cattle and calves, are strangers to the luxuries of butter and milk. His .milk was measured by barrels and churned by machinery, and great were the out- comes, — yet not more than enough for his vast hospitality to the Indians and white folks, and his regal munificence to his negroes. Had the great pastoral bards of antiquity not sung and died before his day, elated, they would have seized upon these scenes and celebrated them in their finest strains as more wonderous, grandly rural and baronial, than aught in all the charming bucolics they have left us. But at length adverse circumstances and influences arose so powerful that it was impossible for Col. Hawkins with all his address and weight of authority among the Indians to main- tain peace in the nation. The war of 1812, between this country and England, had been portentously brewing for a long time before it actually broke out. Seeing its approach, COLONEL IIAWKrNo. 69 Great Britain, tliroiigli her ninnerous agents and emissaries among the Indians, by liberal largesses and snpplies of arms to them, and by whatever other means were at her command in her neighboring Canadian provinces, had been for several years tampering with the North Western tribes, and foment- ing among them a hostile feeling towards the United States. As soon as the lequisite success had been atlained on this border, she directed her attention to the Sonthern and West- ern tribes, and began her machinations among them also. The great argument by which she sought to delude and in- cite them was, that by uniting their own arms with the British, the tide of American aggression, which was rapidly dispossessing them of their lands and driving them further and further to the West, might be stayed and even made to recoil on the aggressors. Her real object, however, was to get well wdthin her grasp and to brandish over us the thun- derbolts of a terrific Indian war, held in hand and ready to be hurled upon our whole thousand miles of exposed fron- tier from the lakes to Florida, in the hope on her part that we thereby might be deterred from declaring war against her at a time when she was already so sorely pressed by Bonaparte and the French. Such was the view with which she conceived and prompted the famous incendiary mission of the celebrated Shawnee Chief, Tecumseh, and his brother, the Prophet, to the fSouthern tribes in 1811.* They had little or no success^ however, with the Cherokees, Choctaws and Chickasaws. But better omens awaited them among the Creeks, — a thing partly owing to the greater residuum of suppressed enmity towards us that still rankled in that tribe, as also to their naturally more warlike and ferocious character ; partly, likewise^ because Tecumseh and the Prophet were of Creek blood and extraction, their father and mother having with their little children migrated in 1767 from the heart of the Creek countryf to the NortliAvest, * American State Papers^ Indian Affairs, Vol. l,p. SOO ,■ Picket t's History of Alabama, Vol.2, p. 242. -\Pickelt's History, Vol. 2, p. 241. 70 COLONEL HAWKINS. where Tecumseh himself was soon after born, who, however, when he grew np made a visit of two years to his ancestral land and people. The consequence was that when he ar- rived among them on his mission of mischief in 1811, he became quickly master of their sympathies as he already was of their language. He reached Tuckabatchee^ tne Creek capital and the seat of the Big Warrior, whilst Col. Hawkins was there holding a grand council of the nation. Keeping dark as to the object of his coming until Col. Hawkins had departed, he then disclosed his errand with that fierce Indian eloquence for which he was famous, and with all the most impressive collateral solemnities of savage superstition and patriotism. By these means and the powerful aid of that most extraordinary Indian religionist and fanatic, his brother, the Prophet, who accompanied him with an impos- ing retinue, it is not wonderful that he succeeded in kindling; a flame among the Creeks which was to be nursed and kept smouldering until after the happening of war between the United States and Great Britain, wlien at some proper mo- ment and given signal, that flame was to burst forth into one vast conflagration along our whole frontier. It is a proof both of the powerful ascendant Col. Hawkins had acquired over the wild people among whom he dwelt, and with whom he had to deal, and of his great ability and fitness for the position he had so long filled among them, that although the anticipated war between England and the United States broke out and involved the Indians the very next year ; yet a large portion of the Creek territory, (all • that part bordering on Georgia and extending west from the Ocmulgee to the Chattahoochee,) never became its actual seat, and consequeijtly that our long line of frontier settle- ments never suffered a whit more than the interior parts of the State from the war's perils and alarms. This happy exemption was due almost wholly to the fact that Col. Hawkins' official seat and residence having been first on the Ocmulgee at the beautiful site opposite to Macon which still bears his name, and afterwards on the Flint river at the COLONEL HAWKINS. 71 place still called the Old Ageacy, his parsoaal iafliieaca, intercourse and acquaintance with the Indians on the Geor- gia side of their country was much greater and impressed its effects more strongly than farther to the West. Hence the Indians on the eastern side remained pacific, and not only so, hut they hecame our actual friends and allies. For the purpose of protecting and keeping them secure and steady in this adherence, the friendly warriors were, on the advice of Col. Hawkins, organized into a regiment of which he became the titular Colonel, although he never took the field, deeming it better to devolve the actual command upon the noble and some years afterwards ill-fated Chief; William Mcintosh,* who, like the great McGillivray, was only of the half blood in the civilization of lineage, but more than the whole blood in the better and loftier traits that do honor to man's nature. The result of all these things was that the few hostile In- dians wlio were scattered through this friendly eastern sec- tion of their country, disappeared and merged themselves with the more congenial belligerent elements in the middle and western parts of the nation, — on the waters of the Coosa, Tallapoosa and Alabama. There concentrated and fierce they stood at bay and fought and fell in many a battle under the heavy, rapid blows of that predestined conqueror of their race, Gen. Jackson, the second of that great heroic name in Southern history, where he stands and will ever stand towering and resplendent in the midst with him of Georgia and him of Virginia close touching and illustrious on either side. Gen, Jackson having brought this great Southern Indian war to a close early in 1814, was not allowed to pause in his career. The Government wanted his genius, his energy and his indomitable will on another and a much grander and more important theatre near the mouth of the Missis- sippi. He went, and in the short, glorious campaign of New Orleans, gave the finishing stroke to the war with * yVhcders North Carolina, title, Warroi County. 72 COLONEL HAWKINS. Great Britain, as he had already just done to that with her deluded savage allies. But before going to gather these brighter laurels, he received at Fort Jackson, near the con- fluence of the Coosa and Tallapoosa, the absolute surrender and submission of the cruslied and starving Creek nation. There with his victor's sword, and in conformity witli com- mands from Washington city, he dictated the terms of a treaty of peace and marked out narrower bounds to the vanquished and all their tril)e. How much was taken from them and how little was left to them constitutes one of the most striking and consequential events in our Indian and Anglo-Abierican aunals. From that time the prowess, the spirits and the prospects of the long redoubtable Creek nation were broken forever. Tlie capitulation of Fort Jackson was its death -knell and tomb. Even the three great friendly Chiefs, the Big Warrior, the Little Prince, and Mclntosli Avere cut to the heart by this deep incision of a sword whose every gleam they bad been wont to watch with loyal gaze and honor with soldierly obedience^ though mar- shalling them into the jaws of danger and death. Col. Plawkins was profoundly saddened at the hard, wretched fate of those wdiom he had long cherished as if they were his children. A cruel dart too entered his bosom from the lips of the Big Warrior,* whom the Colonel was well known to have regarded as one of nature's great men and the ablest of Indian statesmen. The stern, long confiding chief mourn- fully upbraided him lor having persuaded himself and so *The name of Bin; Warrior was given him on account of his great size. He was the only corpulent full blooded Indian 1 ever saw, yet he was not so cor- pulent as to be either unweildly or ungainly. In fact his corpulency added to the magnificence of his appearance. His person and looks were in a high de- gree grand and imposing. Tnstenuggcc llihuro, was his Indian name. He and Col. Hawkins first met at the treaty of Colraine in 1706, and were great friends down to the time of the treaty of Fort Jackson. He was probably the most enlightened and civilized man of the full Indian blood the Creek nation ever produced. He was wealthy and a lover of wealth. He cultivated a line plantation with his seventy or eighty negroes, near Tuckabatchee, where he lived in a good house, furnished in a plain, civilized style. COLONEL HAWKINS. 73 many of his chiefs and people to stand neutral in the war or take part in it against their country. For years after- wards the story used to be told how the big tears stood in the aged Agent's eyes as he listened in silence to a reproach which he felt was at once undeserved and unanswerable. Judging from Wheeler's history, it would seem that North Carolina was disposed to claim Col. Hawkins as not only peculiarly but exclusively her own. But his career, his la- bors and his merits are too broad, diverse and manifold and illustrate too many scenes and subjects of national impor- tance with which he was connected, to admit of such appro- priation. His fame is as well the 23roperty of Georgia, of the Creek nation and of the United States at large as of North Carolina. They all rush to compete with his mother- land and to insist on having along with her a share in such a man, to whom they each owe so much of gratitude. In fact the more he is contemplated, the larger and more ca- tholic becomes his hold on the heart, and we end by feeling that all mankind, civilized and savage, have a right to rise up and exclaim : — He is ours also. PART II. CHAPTER I.— MIDDLE GP:ORGIA. chaptp:r II.— middle Georgia (continued) and THE NEGRO. chapter III.— middle GEORGIA (continued) AND THE LAND LOTTERY SYSTEM. CHAPTER IV.— THE PINE MOUNTAIN. CHAPTER v.— KING'S GAP AND KING'S TRAILS. CHAPTER VL— THE PINE BARREN SPECULATION IN 1794, 1795. CHAPTER VII.— THE YAZOO FRAUD. CHA^r>TKK I. MIDDLE GEORGIA. We have neen in treating of tlie Oconee war how the In- dians gave the name of Virginians to the hosts of nnwelcome strangers that began to pour into their imnienioiial hunting grounds soon after tlie Revolutionary war, and continued to come in unceasing swarms until at length tliey filled U{) the whole country to the east of the Oconee river. Nor was the appellation wrongly given. For it is a fact that this coun- try was mainly settled up in the first instance hy direct col- onization from Virginia and, in some parts, from North Carolina, and not hy the old population of Georgia spreading out over it. We find evidence in our statute book of the early attraction of the Virginians thither. As far back as 1*783, a petition came from Virginia and was granted by our Legislature, asking that two hundred thousand acres of land might be reserved in this i-egion of the State for such emigrants from Virginia as should wish to settle down in one solid, homogeneous neighborhood ; which resei'vation is noticed and ratified in the Act of 1784, organizing the coun- ties of Washington and Franjilin. This fact, though now long buried, possesses some histoiical interest still, as bear- ing on the important point that the great mass of the first settlers, who replaced the Indians in this part of Georgia, came from Virginia, particularly those who established themselves on the best lands. And they came not scatter- ingly and wide apart, but in quick succeeding throngs, bringing along with them their wives, children and servants, 4 MIDDLE (lEOllGIA. aiidtlieirliousehold goods and go(ls, — allured by thGclieapness and fertility of the lands, the pleasantness and salubrity of the climate, the felicity of the seasons, the happy lying and comuiodiousness of the country, well wooded, well watered, with easy wagoning access to tliefloui'ishing cnuiniercial niai-t of Augusta and with, from thence, a fine navigation hy the Savannah river down to the excellent seaport of Savannah, close Uj)on the ocean ; to all which was su[)eradded the known aptitude of the country for the peculiar agriculture to which the Virginians Avere accustomed. For Whitney, young, poor, hut restless with inborn-ingenuity, hos})itably domesticated in the house oF (jron. (rieene's widow, near Sa- vannah, had not yet invented tliat most wonderful and beneficent machine, the cotton gin, and the cultivation of cotton as a commercial commodity was unknown among us, and tobacco was still the master staple in upper Georgia as well as in Virginia. There are probably some very ancient ])eoplo yet living who remember those tobacco-growing times and the queer custom of rolling tobacco hogsheads to Au- gusta and the great rigor of the tobacco inspection in that market. Of the immense preponderance of the immigration from Virginia over that from all other quarters, some idea may be formed from the fact that in my native section when I was a boy, there were scarcely any but very young people who c^ould claim Georgia or any other part of the world than Virginia as their birth place. Scattered here and there a few only were 1o be found who were born elsewhere out of Georgia than in Virginia. Washington county, however, in the limits which it still possessed up to the time of the present generation, must be set down as being an exception to this remark. For within those limits that fine old county was mainly colonized from North Carolina as I have had the best means of knowing, and my heart will forever attest what an amiable and generous i)eople they and their descend- ants were fifty years ago, for a little earlier than then I made my debut in life among them and lived among them long MIDDLE GEORGIA. 5 enough to know and love them well and to be loved by them in return — so at least it has always been a satisfaction to me to feel. Maryland, too, sent a little aid, just enough to enable it to be said that she bore a part in conquering these distant wilds. Within my imerile range of knowing, it was but a single family she sent, poor when they came but des- tined to great ojuilence drawn by toil from t1ie liberal earth. Otten were they called Chesapikers and often in boyish igno- rance, I wondered why. With such exceptions as these, all the rest, the great mass of the people, the elderly, the mid- dle aged, the fully grown and not a few of the very young, were Virginians born. And not only had they come from Virginia themselves, but as the Trojans carried Illium unto Italy, so did they bring Virginia into Georgia with all her divinities both of the field and fireside, and they filially preserved and perpetuated her here, — her ideas and opinions, her feel- ings and principles ; her manners, her customs, her tone and character as well as her agriculture, her system of Ipbor and her whole rural economy. Nor was it a small district only or a few isolated spots that the Virginians thus overspread and impressed with their own very superior type of society and civilization, but nearly all the best of the fair and extensive region lying between the Ogeechee and the Oconee, and that large part besides of the country be- tween the Savannah and the Cgeechee which was originally- comprised in the glorious old pre-revolutionary county of Wilkes, which having been acquired from the Indians under the Colonial regime only a very short time before the out- break of the Revolutionary war, was still very thinly peo- pled at its close, and presented consequently very strong attractions fur the best class of emigrants, who came in troops to those parts of the State where the lands, freed from the Indian occupancy, were yet wild and unappropri- ated and, under the old Head Right system, open to the first comers. * And now here and heretofore (in the course of my writing fi MIDDLE GEOliaiA. a,l)oiit the Oconee war) 1 liave developed tlie beginnings of that famed [)art of the State, known as Middle Georgia, and have found and traced its germ, showing whence that germ came and when, wliere and liuw it was first [)lanted heie, and have ahso shown what hard and perilous ioitiines it had ior a long time to encounter Irom Indian hostilities and incur- sions, whilst striving to maintain itself and get root and thrive in its new soil. But triumidiing by degrees over all dangers and drawbacks, and blest at length with favorable allspices and a long spell of ])rosperity, it struck wide and dee[) into the generous land into which it had been trans- planted, and flourished apace not only within its early cis- Oconee limits, but rapidly spi'ead and propagated far beyond those limits as new opening was from time to time made by fresh acquisitions of Indian territory : First, from the Oco- nee to the Ocmulgee in 1802 and 1805 ; then from the Ocmiilgee to Flint river in 1821 ; and finally from Flint river to the Chattahoochee and our present western bound- ary in 1825, — full forty-nine years ago, when at length the celebrated Black Belt across the center of the State was com- plete and Middle Georgia finished. Already, too, some eleven years earlier, the sword of Gen. Jackson had achieved a great territorial enlargement for Georgia on her southern side. For, as we have already had occasion to tell, by the capitulation at Fort Jackson in 1814, the Indians were entirely swept off by the besom of con- quest from the wliole Tallassee country, beginning far down on the St. Mary's in the East and stretching all along the line of the then Spanish j)rovince of East Florida clean to the Chattahoochee in the West, — being that very Tallassee country for the more easterly portion of which Gen. Clark and Gen. Twiggs, as we have heretofore seen, had at Gal- phinton in 1785, concluded a treaty with the Indians ; a treaty, however, which was not allowed to stand, having been, as heretofore shown, overslaughed by the treaty of New York in HOG. How important an extension of hcu' jurisdictioiuil limits MIDDLE (JEORCtIA. 7 the State was thus laid iiader obligations to Gen. Jackson and his treaty of Fort Jackson for, those who are curious to know may learn by consulting Early's map of Georgia published in 1818, where the whole of this new extension on GUI' South is represented by one great blank space, not having been at that date yet surveyed by the State and laid off into counties or demarcations of any kind. Georgia, by the abDve mentioned events, seeing herself finally rid everywhere of the Creek Indians, began to turn eager, impatient thoughts to her upper or Northern side where the Cherokees inhabited, a ])eople who had far out- stripped all our other aboriginal tribes in the progress to- wards civilization, and whose extreme, immovable attach- ment to their ancestral land seemed to place an insuperable obstacle in the way of our ever acquiring it by peaceful or humane means. But here again the powerful aid of Gen. Jackson was exerted in our lavor, being rendered this time in his character and functions as I'resident of the United States. Before his iron will and inflexible policy, backed by his despotic influence over Congress and the country, all opposition had to give way alike among the Indians and that great mass of the Northern people by whom their cause was espoused. It is now nearly forty years since, by the consummation of his measures, the Cherokees were removed to new homes beyond the J\lississippi, and Georgia placed in undisturbed possession of the fine country they left behind, with all its mountains and vallies, its rich lands and mines, its health-giving climate and waters, its charming diversi- fied scenery and those great commanding advantages of geo- graphical formation and position which make it the eternal doorway and key between the Southern Atlantic and the immense transmontane valley of the Mississippi. SECTION II. I have often thought, in these sad latter days, that it was something to be thankfyl for to have lived in this period of interesting [)rogrcss and development of Georgia, and to 8 MIDDLE GEORGIA. liave grown up witnessing, from childhood to manly age, this inspiring expansion of my native land, of which one effect surely was to imprcgn my young mind with a rich, varied store of dearly cherished, ever-living memories con- cerning the State and what I have seen and known of her, the value whereof, as a resource of mental comfort and lux- ury, I have hegnn to feel more sensibly as I grow older and become more dependent for my enjoyments on the laid up treasures and recollections of tiie past. The past is pecu- liarly the domain of old age, in which it loves to roam at large, mustering up the dead whom it has known, reviving bygone scenes and sights, thoughts and feelings, living over again its departed manhood, youth and even childhood. Alas ! to how few is such a second, retrospective life ever accorded ! And how obvious, too, that whether any and what sort of enjoyment is to he derived therefrom, must de- }»end, in the case of every individual, upon tlie nature and character of that past through which he has traveled and by which his mind has been, as it were, formed, peopled and furnished. Happy is he who has a past on which he can strongly draw and find amends for the sorrows and adversi- ties of the present! To the young, ardent, hopeful; to the active, sanguine seekers after pleasure, riches, honor; to the j'avorites of fortune, who already rejt)ice in the possession or assured attainment of their resi)ective objects of desire, this resource cannot be expected to a]>pear in a very striking light. But to the aged, whose active career is closed, whose earthly hopes are ended, and who, moreover, lie prostrate and helpless under the blows of fortune, it is a resource second only to the consolations of religion and the concious- ness of an upright life. Among all the retrospects on which my mind has long loved to dwell, retrospects, I mean, having relation to those successive expansions and that progressive improvement of my native State, which have, to a great extent, taken place under my own eyes, as it were, there have been none so dear and interesting as those which carry me back to the MIDDLE GEORGIA. V earlier and better days of Middle Georgia — that Middle Georgia that was my birth place and has been my life-long abode, and that, for long, long years, was ever to me as a large earthly paradise in which 1 always felt myself every- where at home and in warm sym[)athy with every thing around me. And it is still dear and precious to recall her as she was in her primal period and high meridian, al- though now her glory is gone and she scarce knows her former sell amidst the staring ruin and mournful depression which have become her fate. Striking indeed was the spectacle as her fair, ample spaces presented themselves to view in the several installments of their acquisition and settlement : — At the lirst, spreading out in all their unniarred primeval grandeur and beauty, a vast and towering woodland scene, nature's ancient, yet ever young, blooming work — then, passing in turn one after another, irom the deep night of barbarism in which they had lain for unknown ages into the sudden light and life of high civilization. Elating to witness at the time, grateful to remember ever since, the successive expandings, the triumphal unfoldings of Georgia in this, her rich middle belt, her very zone of charms, as exulting she advanced by bound after bound from East to West, high-strung, hardy, laborious, "disdaining little delicacies," trampling down ob- stacles, disregarding hardships; subduing and transforming rude nature, forests ialling belore her, the wilderness bud- ding and blossoming as the rose at her touch, rich crops springing up all around her, called forth by her industry from the willing earth. It was the white man with the axe and the plow, the hammer and the saw, and in all the array and habiliments of civilization, superseding the Indian in his hunting shirt and moccasins, with his tomahawk and scalping knife and his bow and arrows. It was Ceres, with her garland of golden sheaves, her basket and hoe and her divine gait and air, putting an end to the reign of Pan and the Satyrs. And no metamorphosis the world ever saw, or fiction ever forged, was more beautiiul, picturesque and lovely 10 MIDDLE GEORGIA. than the change that was wrou2;ht, and wrought, too, with a magical ease and suddenness and on a largness of scale that made the wonderful blend with the beautiful in the successive panoramas that were presented. It was a spectacle which will not occur again ; it is one of those things that has been seen for the last time; it will never more be repeated. Nature exhausted and insolvent, as it were, in this regard, has no more Middle Georgias, no more beautiful, healthi'ul, fertile, well wooded, well watered 8outhe]-n uplands to offer wild and inviolate as future con- quests to Southern industry and civilization ; nor even if she had, could the other requisite conditions ever be hoped for again. A mighty, though unavowed revolution, settling down firmly into permanent bad government, has rendered them impossible. The maxims and polity of our fathers have been discarded and in their stead a senseless, vindic- tive, prostitute Federal despotism now reigns. Rioting and rotting in low-minded splendor and i)rofligacy, paralytic and shrunken on its ISouthern side, jjlethoric and bloated on its Northern, festering Avith corruption all over, it waves its baleful sceptre over us inflicting on tliese "delightful ]>ro- vinces of the Sun" a worse than Oriental late. Already has it succeeded in making us from the richest and most prosper- ous people in the world, the poorest and most helpless. Already are its accursed effects widely seen and felt upon the very soil and face of nature, which we behold rapidly relapsing into uncultivated wastes and dwarf woods of second growth, requiring a second clearing and reclamation from hard-work- ing human hands. And how different a work it will be whenever it shall come, from that which in bygone days an- imated the hearts and hands of the sturdy pioneers of this land in their original reclaiminor of it from the wilderness. How little hopeful, how little elevating and stimulating will it be in comparison! How slow and thankless, how drag- ging and unrewarding! And then besides, whence shall come the hands to do it? We have them not amongst us. Our whole system of agricultural labor is disorganized and MIDDLE GEORGIA. 11 our laborers are not only demoralized nut tliey liug their de- moralization to their bosouLS as the cliief'est boon of theii" new found freedom. Nor is it strange to those who know human nature, especially negro nature, that it sh')uld be so. Is there, then, any relief which may be expected from abroad? Is there any outer quarter to which we may reasona])ly look for th(! help and reinforcement we need? None whatever. And most es[)ecially never shall we again see such another migiation, such another transplanted civilization, as that which of yore poured from the bosom of the mother of heroes and statesmen at a most critical period into the la[) of young Georgia and grew with her growth and S[»read with her ex- panding boundaries. This train of thought brings the mind with force to what is now and must long be to us the greatest and m.ost mo- mentous of (juestions. The question, namely, of the renais- sanceoi (jeorgia. And first of all, is sheto have i\, renaissance? Is the Phrenix ever to rise from its ashes? Shall (jeorgia ever emerge from her ruins? or is it to be her destiny and that of her sisters of the South, to swell tlie long dismal cata- logue of conquered States of ancient and modern times, that have never risen from the blow that felled them, but contin- ued to go down, down, till at length they reached a depth where, hopeless of recovery, they have ever since lain and seemingly will forever lie, wretched, submissive, debased, under the horse's hoof, the despot's heel and the brigand's knife? If such shall not be our lot, it will not be because fortune is our friend or all historv is not against us, but it will be because we shall work out our salvation from it by mighty and persevei-ing eftbrt and self-denial. For it will take both in full measui'e to rescue and save us. Yes, if such is not to be our and our children's lot, it will be because deeply sensible of the dreadful, impending future^ we shall gird ourselves up like men to Avar against it at every point and by every means and with all our strength of body, soul and mind, resolved to know no rest, no ease, till fate shall be 12 MIDDLE GEORGIA. fairly conquered unci chained to our car, and Georgia restor- ed to honor, prosperity and greatness. But let me not run before my work. In due time, if strength hold out equal to my task, this great question, which constantly looms up to view, will be reached and here and there liandled as T may best be able. It is, indeed, a question of appalling magnitude and difficulty, but one, nevertheless, from which we may not shrink, one towards the auspicious solution of which, every son of Georgia, how- ever humble, is bound to bring his mite of aid. CHAT^TER II. MIDDLE GEORGIA (continued) AND THE NEGRO. Besides the very superior character of the country and the first colonists and their descendants, there were other causes that lent their aid to the ra[)id [leopling and iuiprovement of the several successive new Purchases, as they were called, that from time to time accrued to Middle Georgia — from its beginning at the acquisition of the original county of Wilkes, down to its finishing enlargement by the second treaty of the Indian Springs in 1825. Noticeable among these causes was the lucky length of the intervals of time that elapsed be- tween the different Purchases, sufficient to enable each new Purchase to become well peopled, prosperous and solidified before it had to encounter competition for settlers with other subsequently acquired Indian lands. To which add the ad- vantages each new I'urchase enjoyed in its turn from its immediate contiguity along its whole eastern side to older, well advanced settlements ; — also that each new ac(|uisition MIDDLE GEORGIA. 13 as it came in its order, although not very small, was yet not larger than was wanted for the fresh tide of immigration that was waiting to flow into it, and did flow into it at once and fill it up with an excellent [topnlation fronj the very outset. Furthermore, whilst adverting to these favoring causes, let us not forget that capital one — the humhle, lahorious, unpaid hands by which most of the harsh, heavy work was done, and without which such celerity of reclamation and imj)rovement would have been impossible. Let not the poor negro and tlie imi)ortant part perfoi-med by him, be left without s])ecial and in tlie phrase of the schools — -honorable mention. Indeed not only in Middle Georgia in tlie several installments of its early settlement, but everywhere and at all times in the S )uth, he was most useful and assistant, and justly acquired a hold more lasting than the relations out of which it grew, on the kindly feelings of those whom he served so long, so loyally and so well. How it is going to be with Southern men and women a generation or two hence and afterwards, cannot now be foreseen. It may be that they will get to be quite as dead and unsympathetic towards the negro as the negroes themselves were wont of old to feel that Northern men and women were in comparison with those of the South, This undesirable result is certainly that to which the new order of things seems to tend. But as for us, who were born and bred in a better day and under more propitious relations and influences than now prevail, such deadness and want of sympathy may be pronounced impos- sible so long as the negro continues to deport himself in his new state of freedom no worse than he has thus far done, in Georgia at least. We would be narrow, nay ! even little in soul, if we did not look with large charity on the demorali- zation which the great shock and change through which he has passed, have undoubtedly wrought in him. For alas ! are not the evidences thick around us of our having also un- dergone a demoralization not less great and signal, from the mighty shock and change, to which we likewise_, have been 14 MIDDLE GEORGrA. subjected. Verily, kindness for the negro, a humane and friendly feeling towards him, a true indescrihable sympathy with him, began with the lives, imbued the infancy and childhood, ran on with the growing years of the present generation of k^outhern men and women, and became so in- timately entwined with their very natures as to be ineradica- ble except by his own egregious and incorrigible delinquency and worthlessness. It is our true interest that he should do well, and attain to a higher level in morals, merit and intel- ligence. Never shall we be disposed to underrate liiin, or to withhold from him a generous ci'edit for all that lie shall deserve in the future, any more than a just remembrance of all he has done in the ])ast. He is emphatically the child of the KSun, born of his most burning rays, anil ha[)pily framed to live and labor, strengthen and exult under his fiercest glare, in the most firery climes. He is also eminently submissive, cheerfully servile in his nature, and ai)t and docile in a high degree in things that hold rather of the hand tluin of the mind. In all respects he met our Southern agricultural and domestic needs most admirably ; and certainly among the great ser- vices he rendered us, that in which he was most important, was the conquest of the forest and tlie subjugation of rude nature to the axe, the plow or the hoe. It is impossible to look back on the immense amount of hard, heavy, valuable work done by him in first opening the country tor culture, and afterwards as a life-long laborer in the very fields clear- ed by him;, and then reveise the picture and gaze upon the widespread ruin he was subsequently made the involuntary, unwitting cause, (for he was the cause of the war and all its consequences) of bringing upon the scenes of his previous useful industry, without being ])ainfuily impressed in rela- tion to him. How strikingly has it been his lot to be forced to be in the beginning, a blessing, in the end a curse to us and our land ! Yes ! forced both in the one case and the other. And now he has become a sore problem indeed ; a warring, unnatural, morbific element in society, incapable of MIDDLE GEORGIA. 15 assimilation with the body politic, upon which he has been hitched, as it were, by sheer extraneous violence, and by a tie quite as baleful and criminal as that by which the i'a- bled tyrant Mezentius, chained the bodies of the dead to the living. Can the living ever impart life and health to the dead through a bond so revolting ? Will not the dead rather impart their own death and putrifactiou to the living? And do they who, on the horrid maxim that there can be nothing wrong towards the vanquished, have inflicted this monstrous wrong on us and on human nature itself, and who are still exulting over their liel})h*ss victims, — do they cheat themselves with the idea that God is no hmger just, and that the terrible curse of bad, wicked Government which they have vindictively fastened on us'and our posterity, will not react in some way on themselves and make them and theirs writhe in long retributive agony under the eventual conse- quences of their unprecedented crime ? For how can that great mass of ignorance, depravity and shameless unfitness, which they have clothed with the awful power of Government throughout the South, be prevented from working its deadly effects in National as well as in State affairs ; from sending corruption and ruin through the body politic of the Union, as well as through those of its oppressed and outraged Southern members ? Such is the appalling problem now before the whole coun- try, and that must needs be worked out for everlasting weal or woe in reference to the negro ; whose mission upon earth, whether viewed as he is and always has been in Africa, or as he was and is in America, is truly one of the dreariest and most impenetrable of the mysteries of God. Nor is it rendered the less dreary and impenetrable by recent events in this great nation. In no age of the world has he ever emerged from barbarism and slavery on his own continent. Hideous land ! where children are the slaves of their parents, and daily sold by them into slavery to others, without a pang ! where every subject is the slave of his Prince or Chief, legally saleable by him to any purchaser that comes or can 16 MIDDLE GEORGIA. be found, juat like an ox or an elephant's tooth! Where every man, woman and child is liable at any moment to be seized and sold into slavery, singly or in droves, by any horde of" robbers that can succeed in catching them by night or by day, and where lil'e is as lir.tle res[)ected as liberty ! 8uch is the negro's immemoi-ial normal condition in Africa. And who shall say that Heaven in revealing the American continent, did not design it as an asylum for liim, too, as well as for the European ? But what sort of asylum and an asylum for him in what character ? Not certainly in that of a freeman, a citizen, a voter, an office-holder or legislator, for all which he was wretchedly unfit, but as an asylum for him in the character or status, which attached to him in his own country, and in which alone lie could be anything but a nuisance in ours. And if he did not escape entirely from the miseries and debasement of his African condition by being brought to these Southern States and planted here in his African status, he at least escaped from them in large part and as far as he was worthy of escaping, or as it was for his good to escape. He exchanged a worse and a barbarous for a better a civilized form of slavery, an exchange which was at once a blessing to him, to us, and to mankind, and to wliich he was not only indebted for a strik- ing betterment of his condition, physical, moral, religious, but for all of civilization and Christianity he has ever at- tained. It is undeniable, that instead of being worsted and debased by falling into our hands, his condition has been ameliorated and his nature elevated. Under our beneficent despotism, he was reclaimed from the grossest barbarism and superstition and trained up to a degree of civilization and religious culture from which it is yet uncertain whether the giftoffreedom will carry him uphigherordraghimdown lower. Behold then what the Southern system of slavery has done for the negro ! And yet Christendom has permitted itself to be shocked and stultified in regard to it and to be kindled into an insane rage against us hecause of our supposed in- human and unchristian wron- jdicauts becoiue the owners of tliose lands and entitled to have a grant issued by the State therefor, provided no body MIDDLE GEORGIA AND LAND LOTTERY. 25 else had already taken up and apptopiiated the same land. This mode, liowever, thougli so univei-sal, was always liable to consideiable ohjections. Under it land titles were niucli exposed to dilfieullies and litigation hy leason ot the same surface heing often covei'ed and always heing more or les;-; in danger of being covered by conflicting Warrants or ILad Righfs in favor of divers {)ersons. And tliis dangei' wa;; everywhere greater in proportion as the lands were more de- sirable and more sought after. Also the poorer and less at- tractive lands wonld be neglected and very slowly taken up, so that from botli causes combined, the country was very a[)t to become in tlie richer h)calities, a hot bed of law suits and conflicting claims, and, in the ])Oorer, a confused patchwork of ai)pi-opriatcd aiid uiiappro[)riated or vacant lands, wliich would eventuate in making it difficult to know and pick out what was vacant from what was not vacant. Moreover, to the gi'cat majority of }ieo])le, especially widows, orjdians, unmarried women and to the very poor generally, it was not only onerous but next to impossible to make the person- al ex[)!orations, witliout wiiich the right to take out and locate Head Riglits was almost worthless. To all which if we add tlie frequent ei'rois, inaccuracies and abuses grow- ing out of an ill-contrived, incompetent and untrustworthy of- ficial machinery, we behcdd a formidable mass of evils tlie tendency of which was to obstruct settlement and throw the best lands into the hands of speculators and the ricli and crafty, to the exclusion of a class w^ho were by far the most ]iroper objects of })ublic bounty. It was, however, much less as an escape irom these long familiar and therefore not much j'cgarded evils, than as a violent-, virtuous^ indignant reaction against two huge, new tangled villainies, wdiich were still recent and in their inten- sest odium, that tlie Land Lottery system flist suggested itself in Georgia, and found universal favor, and was ailo[)tcd, and permanently })ursued by the 8tate in })rcfer- eiice to all other mod(;s of disposing of her public lands. These two great villainies were the Pine Barren >Sj)ecnla- 26 MIDDLE GEORGIA AND LAND LOTTERY. tioti of l*7'.M-5, and tlic Yazoo Fraud of the saino era. In- censed to tlie highest degree hy tliose two monstrous in- iquities })ractised upon the honor and ]iroperty of the State, whei'ehy oi'ganized bands of corrupt and corru[)ting specu- lators Avere enabled to cheat, swindle and make [)rofit to the tnne of millions, — the honest, outraged peoj)le of Georgia resolved that in all subsequent dispf)sitions of their public lauds they would sacrifice all other objects to the paramount one of closing every door and providing every security againsjt the future perpetration of such like, or any other land frauds or villainies. Out of this feeling so honorable and redeeming to the State, was born the Land Tjottery System. Under it the public lands, as they were from time to time freed from Indian occu])ancy, were at public cost sur- veyed into sniall lots of uniform size, and marked, num bei-ed and mapped, and the whole returned to the Surveyor General's Ofhce, from whence by commissioners chosen by the Legislature for the pur[)ose, the State caused all the lots to be thrown into the Lottery wheel, and to become fortune's gifts as well as her own to her people. By this course it is obvious, every temptation and means for the practice of fraud and corruption was taken away. For who was going to bribe the members of the Legislature or other j)ublic functionaries, high or low, when it was ren- dered utterly impossible by the very system adopted, for the corru[)tor to make or secure anything by means of the brib- ery? Who would ever think of bribing surveyors to meas- ure or mark lots falsely or make forged or fictitious returns of surveys, when nobod}"- could possibly know or foresee to whom any particular lots w^ould be drawn, in the coming lottery ? And how could s[)eculators, single or combined, practice frauds upon the State, in regard to the lands, where every lot of land had already passed out of the State into pri- vate ownership, before it could become an object of speculation? In addition to all which it was a high recommendation of the system that it gave to all, the ])Oor as well as the rich, to the feeble as Avell as the strong, to women as well as to men, and to widows and to orphans, an equal and fair THE PINE MOUNTAIN. 27 cliancc. It also gave instantly to every lot of land, an owner with an unquestionable title, and by this means, and by preventing tiic accumulation of large bodies of land in the bands of speculative individuals and companies, it promoted greatly the rapid settlement and improvement of the new I'e- gions, beyond any other syslem that could have been devised. OHA^FTER IV. THE PINE MOUNTAIN. Nature, when slie drew near the completion of Middle Georgia, ere slie put bor finishing band to the work, paused and said : What, shall be the last toucb ? What crowning gift shall I bestow? What impress set that shall never be- come commonpbxce? What ])rond, striking feature call fortli on this Westernmost expanse tbat sball make it unique among the Midlands of the 8outb, a cbarm and a glory to all beholders and tlirougli all time ? And she said I will give it a mountain, a mountain where mountains are not wont to be; a mountain, too, ricb in pi'eoious inner treasures as well as in charms attractive to the eye. And as she spake, Behold ! Eartb beaved and the Pine Mountain ui)rose in modest grandeur and beauty, adorned as to its umbrageous sides and fertile, close clinging valleys and breezy cerulean summits, not only witb pines, but witb other trees also unnumerable. Far down to tbe Soutb, it uprose in lonely loveliness and isolation, further down, and nearer to tb-e sea, by more than one hundred miles, than any other mountain, or mountain knob, or outlier. And at its Eastern end, nature allowed a little river, tbe first that turned away from tbe Atlantic slope and went to woo the blue waters of the Gulf, to pierce its yet unharden- 28 THE PINE MOUNTAIN. eel maHs, ami to seek the sea in a stiaiy,lit, onward course through its disrupted sides. But as tlie young mountain grew towards the West, it grew also compact and rock- ribbed. It swelled out larger and towered up higher, and at length after stretching away for some fifty miles, became too strong for even the mighty Chattahoochee, child of* the eternal Alleghanies, forcing the impetuous river to bend conquered around its Western base, and to go fretting, foam- ing, writliing, tumbling over many a mile of rocky, unre- lenting ra{)ids down to whce Columbus sits in long waiting at the foot of those first falls and all their vast water power. But mourn not, fair Coweta,* daughter of the ever-roaring, soul-attuning waters ! Nor let thy firm heai-t fail thee un- der the trying fortunes tliat have been thy lot ! How often does time justify bright dreams whose I'ulfiUmeiit has been long deterred! And may it not be in coming years when haply redundant ca[)ital flowing thither from afar shall become wedded by ties tight and strong to hungry labor in our new-^i'dered »South as already in other lands, that those who shall then roam the green earth shall see thy long river staircase, from Columbus to West Point, one climbing street of |)allatian mills, from whose lofty windows toward that street's upper end, the caged 0{)eratives will often look out and regale their eyes and hearts with the ever fresh aerial beauty of the Pine Mountain. Most probably, however, ere that great specta- cle shall [)resent itself, it will have for its forerunner, another hardly less inspiring, though of a very different sort. Around that mountain with its naturally tine circum- jacent lands, its gusliing wealth of {»ure healthful waters, and its delicious, salubrious climate, it has occurred to me that earlier peihajis than any where else in the old cotton belt proper of the State, there will be more andinore seen a white population in full, manly, working harmony with the new condition of things with which the Southern people have to grapple; a white population that will know no 'lii(li:ui niinic ol' llie site oi" Colnini'Li;- ami liu! I'^ills it\' the Cluvtlaliooclice. THE PINE MOUNTAIN, 29 shrinking from rongh, liar