' ,0- ^"•^^^ , 1 vv ^'^^i^. ^VZ'-. .4 O. "oV 5^^ u . fi^ . * • • ' %/ :M)k' \/' .•:*^"- '"-.,..>* * .V ^^ IIP,* 'V ^^ .V/«SW* A? ^^ «> ^ fXVERSITY OF MICHIGAN, Ann Arbor, December, 1865. THE GRAND TRAVERSE REGION. I. THE NAME. The early French voyageurs in coasting from Mackinac southward found two considerable indentations of the coast lino of Lake Michigan on the east side, which they were ac- customed to cross from headland to headland. The smaller of these they designated " La Petite Traverse " and the greater, " La Grande Traverse." These names were transferred to the two bays known as the Little Traverse and Grand Traverse Bays. IL GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION. Grand Traverse Bay is a bay of lake Michigan, indenting the northwestern shore of the southern Peninsula of the State of Michigan. Its general direction is from north to south. Its mouth is in latitude 45° 15' north, and its head in latitude 44'' 45' north. Its length in a straight line is therefore 34.75 statute miles. The undefined region bordering on this bay is generally known as the Grand Traverse Region. Tlie county of Antrim lies upon the east side of the bay, the county of Leelanaw on the west, and the county of Grand Traverse on and about the head of the bay. The counties of Benzie on the west and Kalkasca on the east of Grand Traverse, may be regarded as lying within the same topograi^liical and hydrographical area; and in their geologi- cal and physical features belong to the same district. 6 Leelanaw county occupies the triangle lying between Grand Traverse Bay and lake Michigan. Grand Traverse county embraces the tongue of land which bisects the southern half of the bay, and extends northward to embrace about nine miles along the eastern shore of the bay. Benzie county lies upon lake Michigan. Kalkasca county is reached by navigable water only in the northwestern corner, through Elk and Round lakes. The southern limit of the region thus indicated lies in latitude 44° 30' and the northern limit in latitude 45° 15' north. III. HYDROGRAPHY. Grand Traverse Bay is a sheet of navigable water about thirty- three miles in length with an average breadth of about eleven miles. The southern portion of the bay is divided into the east and west arms by a belt of land from one to two miles wide and about seventeen miles in length, known as "the Peninsula." The east arm has an average width of about four and a half miles; the west arm is somewhat wider. The height of the bay and of lake Michigan above the level of the sea is 578 feet. The depth of water in the bay is generally from 20 to 70 fathoms. The east arm attains the greatest depth, being about a hundred fiithoms at a point opposite Old Mission and thence as far as Petobego Lake. The maximum depth is 618 feet, and is found opposite Birch Lake and on a line between Old Mission and the north end of Elk lake. The entire bay constitutes a harbor secure from all except northerly winds ; while the two arms of the bay are not seri- ously disturbed by storms from any direction. The shores of the bay however, present a number of harbors in which vessels may at all times lie with the utmost security. Entering the bay at its mouth and proceeding along the western shore, the first important harbor reached is Northport which oj)ens to- wards the south — being separated from the bay by a tongue of laud called " Carrying Point." This harbor is about two miles wide and nearly three miles deep and is a frequent re- sort of vessels overtaken by storms upon the lake. The Avater is sufficient tor the largest vessels which navigate the lakes. Proceeding southward, twelve miles from the mouth of the oay we reach New Mission Harbor, also opening southward and separated from the bay by Shobwasson Point. This har- bor is a mile and a half wide and a mile deep, with an abun- dance of water for safe navigation. Four miles further south is Sutton's Bay, opening towards the northeast, and separated from the West Arm by Stony Point. This harbor is three miles long and a mile and a half wide with plenty of water. Lee's Point, eleven miles from the head of the "West Arm forms another shallow harbor. Bower's harbor, on the west side of the Peninsula, opens to the southwest, being isolated from the West Arm by Tucker's Point. Off this point, and connected with it by a reef, is Har- bor Island — practically extending Bower's harbor to the length of over three miles, while its width is about one and a half miles. On the east side of the Peninsula, near the point, is Old Mission harbor, having a capacity of about one square mile. Further than this the configuration of the shore of the East Bay affords no harbor worth}- of note. Passing southward from the mouth of Grand Traverse Bay along the shore of lake Michigan, we find a broad indentation at the mouth of Carj) River, oj)ening towards the northwest and partially protected from Avest and southwest winds by Mount Carp. Between Mount Carp and North Unity is a broad bay about five miles deep, affording protection from all winds except those proceeding from the north and northwest. Between North Unity and Sleeping Bear Point is another broad bay about four miles deep, forming the harbor of Glen Arbor, affording sheltej- from all except north and northwest winds. The muuth of this harbor opening towards the Mani- tou Islands about nine miles distant, it receives considerable protection from heavy " seas " approaching from that quarter. No other natural harbor of importance exists along this shore ; though improvements, some of which are now in pro- iLiress — ;i;^ at the iiioutli of tlie Bees Scies IMvit — wil! create liivrbors e navigable for ves- 9 sols of luri>^e size, though none above twenty tons burden couUl approach through Crystal creek ; and even thU would necessi- tate some iniproveruents. Platte lake in Benzie county is similarly circumstanced, though smaller, and lying somewhat further from lake Mich- igan. Lake aux Bees Seles (or lake " Betsie" ) — sometimes called Crystal lake — is the second in size of the lakes of this region. Its western extremity approaches within half a mile of lake Michigan, but its outlet is through the Bees Scies river and Frankfort harbor. The lattor is a beautiful little lake reaching to within a few rods of lake Michigan with which it connects througli the Bees Scies river. The imj^rovements in progress here Avill render this, harbor accessible from lake Michigan for any vessels which navigate the lake, and it will be absolutely secure from storms from any quarter of the compass. This harbor is two miles long and from a qunrtor to a half a mile in width. Numerous smaller lakes of less importance dot the entire region, of which Petobego lake in the northeastern part, and Silver, Long, Bass and Green lakes in the Avestern part of Grand Traverse county are beautiful sheets of limpid water with hard shores. Boardman's lake, within half a mile of Traverse City, is destined, in time, to aiford a large accession to the sources of pleasure to the future population of that place. Lime and Bass lakes in the western part of Leelanaw county. Cedar lake in the southeastern part, and Leg lake in the northern part are among the smaller bodies of water with which the region is sup2)lied. These numerous lakes are filled with pure and palatable water; their shores are dry, and in connection with the sur- rounding scenery, tliey constitute, in addition to the facilities they afford for internal communication, the completion of the charms of a series of the most charming landscapes. The streams of the region are natiirally of inconsiderable magnitude. The Manistee river flows through the south- eastern portion of Kalkasca county, and passes beyond the limits of the present notice. Boardraan's river rises in the 10 northern part of Kalkasca county, and, after flowing southwest about thirty miles, bends northward and flows about nine miles into the West Arm of Grand Traverse bay. Elk river, the outlet of Elk lake, is scarcely a quarter of a mile long. It dis- charges a large body of water, and has a sufiicient fall to afibrd a first class water power. The river has been dammed by Avhich the approach from the bay is cut ofl", while the depth of water in the chain of lakes lying towards the interior is proportionally improved for the i)ur2)ose of navigation. Carp river, the outlet of Carp lake discharges a body of water nearly as large, and having a fall of five or six feet affords another admirable water jjower. Here also is a dam. This river is not over half a mile in length. Crystal creek, the outlet o Glen lake, is of smaller dimentions, pursuing a tortuous course of about three miles, and affording by its fall one or two good water powers. The Bees Scies river rises in a chain of lakes in the Avestern part of Grand Traverse county, flows southwest about twelve miles, then north and west about eighteen miles to Frankfort harbor, through which it empties into lake Mich- igan. This stream afibrds a water power which is improved near Benzonia. The Manistee, Boardman and Bees Scies rivers afford good mill sites in the unsettled regions through which their upper waters flow ; while numbers of smaller streams have been em- ployed or may be, for driving mills to accommodate their im- mediate neighborhoods. The streams of this region are supplied with pure clear water and flow with a lively current over pebbly bottoms to their places of discharge. There are very few instances o water colored by vegetable or peaty accumulations, or stag- nated by flats, in the vicinity of the mouths of the streams. Small brooks and rills are very numerous throughout nearly all parts of the region, so that there is scarcely a quarter sec- tion of land that is not supplied with living water, or that has not access to some of the numerous lakes with Avhich the country is so abundantly supplied. It will at once be noticed that this region is favored with an extent of navigable water which is quite remarkable. Not 11 only is the whole extent of shore line of lake Michigan and the bay accessible for vessels of large draft, but to augment this shore line to a still greater extent, the bay is parted longi- tudinally for the distance of seventeen miles, and nearly the entire coast of the lake and bay is diversified by alternate " points " and indentations, which materially increase the means of access to the land. The whole extent of coast line bordering on lake Michigan is not less than seventy-five miles, of which fifty lie withm Leelanaw county. Grand Traverse bay presents a coast line of 113 miles, of which 41 lie within Leelanaw county, 50 in Grand Traverse, and 23 in Antrun county. The shore line of navigable water afibrded by the various inland lakes is as follows : In Leelanaw county Carp lake aftbrds about 36 miles and Glen lake about 14. In Benzie county Crystal lake aflbrds about 20 miles and Frankfort harbor about 5 miles. In Antrim county and extending into Grand Traverse, Elk lake afibrds about 23 miles. Round lake 7 miles. Torch lake 36 miles. Clam and Grass lakes 17 miles. Omitting mention of the considerable lakes in the western part of Grand Tra- verse county we thus have in this region 158 miles of shore line bordering on the navigable inland lakes, and 189 miles bordering on the bay and lake Michigan. This gives a total of 347 miles 'of shore line bordering on navigable waters in the region under consideration, and distributed as follows : In Leelanaw county 141 miles In Benzie coimty 50 " In Grand Traverse county 63 " In Antrim county 93 " Total 347 " IV. TOPOGRAPHY. The mean elevation of the Grand Traverse region above lake Michigan may be estimated at 230 feet, or 808 feet above the level of the sea. The mean elevation of the lower Penin- sula of Michigan is estimated by Higgins to be 160 feet above lake Michiojan or 738 feet above the sea level. 12 The surface of the Grand Traverse region is thus seen to be somewhat elevated. Its configuration is undulating or broken. The drainage is almost perfect, so that swamps and stagnant waters are rarely encountered. The region on the west side of the bay is more uneven than that on the east. An elevated and somewhat broken tract extends from Lighthouse Point through Leelanaw and Benzie counties to beyond Frank- fort. Back from this bolt the coiuitry is equally elevated but less broken. Grand Traverse county is «juite diversified with valleys, slopes and plateaux, but the surface rarely sinks so low or becomes so level as to interfere with complete drainage. The surface of Antrim county is undulating, sometimes hilly, and, though well watered, no marshes of importance occur. Some parts of Leelanaw county present hills of somewhat formidable magnitude. Most of the northern j^ai-t of the tri- angle is decidedly rough. The ridge of land separating Carp lake from Sutton's bay attains an elevation of nearly 400 feet above the bay. The slopes, however, are j^assable for loaded wagons. Carp lake is a beautiful sheet of pure water, resting in the bosom of the hills, which, wnth their rounded forest- covered forms, furnish it a setting of surpassing loveliness. Except for a short space on the east side, south of the narrows, the shores of the lake are occupied by dry and arable land. The region between Glen Arbor and Traverse City is substan- tially an undulating plateau lying at an elevation of about 300 feet above the lake. Glen lake is surrounded by hills, which attain an elevation of 250 to 400 feet. North Unity is a bold bluff" of clay and sand, formed by the wasting of the lakeward side of a prominent hill by the action of the waves. Sleeping Bear Point is an enormous pile of gravel, sand and clay, which has been worn away on its exposed borders till the lakeward face presents a precipitous slope rising from the waters to an elevation of 500 feet, and forming with the horizon an angle of fifty degrees. Back from the face of the bluff' is an undulating plateau of clay, j^ebbles and sand, covering an area of six or eight square miles, over which the only signs of vegetation are a few tufts of brown, coarse grass wnth scattered clumps of dwarfed and gnarly specimens of the balm of Gilead^-a min- 13 iature desert, lying 380 feet above tlie lake. Across this waste of sand and clay the Avind sweeps almost incessantly, — sometimes with relentless fury — driving pebbles and sand into the shelter of the neighboring forest, and causing the stunted poplars to shrink away in terror at its violence. The pelting sand has polished the exposed surfaces of the larger fragments of rocks to such au extent that they reflect the sun- light like a mirror. Their surfaces are sometimes worked into furrows, pits and grotesque inequalities in consequence of the unequal hardness of diiferent portions of the stone. The " Bear " proper is au isolated mound rising a hundred feet above this desolate plateau and singularly covered with ever- greens and other trees, presenting from the lake the dark ap- pearance which suggested to the early navigators the idea of a bear in repose. Empire bluff, six miles further south, presents a section of another hill which attains an altitude of nearly 400 feet, and the hills at Point Bees Scies reach an elevation but little less. Seen from the lake, the natural cuts presented between Cat- head Point and Carp river, at North Unity, Sleeping Bear and Point Bees Scies look like huge accumulations of blown sand, and convey the impression of a sterile and inhospitable coast, which is quite at variance with the indications of the country a a quarter or half a mile back from the shore. The region about the head of Grand Traverse bay is mostly a level sandy plain, sufliciently elevated for drainage, but on the west and southwest of the head of the West Arm the country rises rapidly by one or two ascents into hills attaining an elevation of 300 or 400 feet. This elevation of the coiintry is maintained most of the way to the Manistee river. The Monroe settlement lies in au elevated undulating expanse reach- ing south and east for six or eight miles. Toward the west of this the surface subsides, but remains dry to the head waters of the Bees Scies river. The Peninsula is a gently hilly tongue of farming land. Sim- ilar features belong to the eastern shore of the east bay. In- deed, nearly the whole of the western part of Antrim county is made up of plains and gentle slopes, Avliich sometimes reach u an elevation of 200 feet, but toward the interior are ridges which attain a more considerable altitude. The strictly low lands of the Grand Traverse region are scarcely worthy of mention. Occasionally a narrow belt of swamp borders a lake for a short distance, or spreads out in the vicinity of the mouth of a stream. Some low ground is observed about the head of the West Ai-m, and more about the head of the East Arm. The immediate vicinity of the upper waters of the Boardman river is somewhat marshy, as also some patches in the southeastern, middle and western parts of Grand Traverse county. The same may be said of the region about th'^ head waters of the Bees Scies river, in Benzie county, as also the vicinity of Cedar river in Lcelanaw. Some low ground occurs again about t!io south end of Elk and Round lakes, and on the borders of the streams in the interior and eastern parts of Antrim county. Though the immediate shore, as seen from the lake, presents the appearance of a dune covered coast, we find very little sand blown toward the interior, except on the Sleeping Bear. Indeed, the beds of white material forming so striking a spec- tacle seen from the lake are more clay than sand ; and I am not aware of any real dunes except in the region already indicated. The northern lakeward slope of Sleeping Bear Point consists of drifts of shining sand for a distance of two or three miles. The momid wdiich constitutes "the Bear" is also clothed with drifted sand, though the vegetation growing upon it is evidence of a more coherent material beneath. The scenery of the Grand Traverse region is subdued and soft — sometimes picturesque, always beautiful, in some in- stances exquisitely so. Viewed from some suitable eminence the landscape presents an imdulating sea of verdure, one softly-rovmded hill top succeeding another in the retreating view, the dimness of distance lendinof an ever increasinsi en- chantment to the prospect. Frequently the introduction of- water into the landscape gives it almost the perfection of en- chantment. From the bluff on which the s(!ininary of New Mission is situated the beholder has an exquiiute view of Grand Traverse bay with its eastern and western arms dissolving in 15 smoke in the dim distance, and the broad hike seen through the mouth of the bay sinking beneath the northern horizon. An emerakl fringe of forest skirts the opposite shore ; the softened outlines of the Peninsula emerge from the misty em- brace of the two arms of the bay, and all around the frame- work of this scene loom from the background the purple hill- tops, looking perpetually down upon the i^icture. From the foot of Pine lake a scene of siiri^assing loveliness presents itself. We land, perhaps, upon the wharf at the mouth of Pine river. Before us is a sandy slojie on the top of which we discover the usual features of a new settlement. Beyond is the forest. It is a pleasant October morning, how- ever, and we follow the well-beaten road through the fresh clearings which stretch out for two miles inland. We emerge from a screen of forest ti'ees and find ourselves standing upon an elevated bluft' overlooking as lovely a sheet of water as the sun ever shone upon. You feel almost a transport of delight in emerging so suddenly from the depths of the habitual forest into a prospect so vast, so gentle in its features, so delicate in its tints, and so glowing in the bright sunshine of a fair Octo- ber morning. Far away to the southeast, for fifteen miles, stretches the placid smiling surface of the water, its white and pebbly shore chasing the contour of the hills in all its mean- dering sinuosities. The verdant ridges rise on every side from the shining shore line, and hold the lake in their enchanted embrace, while rounded hill-tops bubble up in rapid succession across the retiring landscape till hill and vale and sky, and green and purple and blue dissolve together in the blended hues of the distant horizon. To one more of these views I cannot resist the temptation to allude. From an eminence about 400 feet high, two or three miles inland from Glen Arbor, on the northeast side of Glen lake, can be seen one of the most beautiful and varied land- scapes to be witnessed in any countrv, and one which is well worthy the pencil of the artist. The view is toward the west, and it should be taken when the sky is clear and the atmos- phere is pervaded by that softened haze which fuses the sharp- er angles of the landscape and throws over it a thin veil of in- 16 scrutaltle vngueness. P^rom our liill sunuiut "\ve look down on the t0})s of the trees M'hicli cover tlie phiin immediately froiil- iug us. On tlie left is a portion of Glen lake, its nearer shoi'e concealed by the forest, and the remoter one exposinsi; a white and peljhly margin from which the verdant hills beyond rise hundreds of feet above the watery mirror in which their forms ai-e so clearly fashioned. In front of us the green hills separ- ate Glen lake from lake Michigan, and conceal from \\e\v tlie desert sand-fields of Sleeping Bear, ^ot completely, however, for the naked and glistening flanks of the northern slope stretch out to view beyond the forest-covered ridge, and embrace the placid harbor which struggles through the intercepting foliage, aud blends with the boundless expanse of the great lake still beyond. Farther ofl' in the midst of the water, rises the green outline of the South Manitou island, bearing on its head a glis- tening cap of sand. Still farther to the right rises the form of the North Manitou, which seems trying to hide itself behind the towering bluff of North Unity that guards the entrance to the harbor from the north. Tw^o little lakes nestle in the rich woodland that spreads its verdure between us and the harbor, screening themseh es like wood nymphs behind the thick foli- age which half conceals their charms. It is doubtful whether a scene superior to this exists in the country. Y. SOIL. The ai'enaceous element of the soil is generally strongly marked. At the same time the region on the Avest side of the bay is somewhat more sandy than that on the east. The soil of Grand Traverse and Benzie counties is more diversified. Nevertheless, patches of clayey soil are notunfrequent in Lee- Innaw county, and a well-mixed sandy loam is the dominant cliaracter of the soil on the hills. It seems, at first thought, somewhat surprij^ing that the soil of the valleys should be less coherent than that on the slopes and summits of the hills. This disposition, however, is the natural result of the wasting of the hills by storms.' These have .worn away the more arenaceous materials and .transported them to the lower levels, until tho 17 denudation of the hill summits has reached the beds of argil- laceous materials with which all the hills of the region are in tersected. A considerable area about the head of the two arms of the bay is a sandy plain, the most of it sufficiently elevated foi' drainage. On the west of the bay the broken land reaches to the waters edge. On the south it is reached within two miles when a fine belt of adhesive loam extends for about five miles. This is succeeded by two or three miles of clayey soil less per- fectly drained, after which we ascend to the beautiful plateau on which the Monroe settlement stands, clothed with a light loamy soil Avhich extends southward with varying accessions of sandy material as far as the Manistee river. Eastward from the Monroe settlement the character of the soil continues to be a light loam, while toward the west and northwest it becomes more sandy and less perfectly drained. On the East of Silver lake is a region in which the argillaceous element decidedly predominates ; while the country between New Sweden and Elk lake is favored with a well-drained calcareous loam, equal in fertility to any in the Grand Traverse region, and, from its having been longest settled, generally reputed to be some- what superior to most parts of the country. This opinion, however, is an unwarranted disparagement of the country in general. The soil on the east of Grand Traverse bay is a sandy cal- careous loam of considerable uniformity, but yet, as on th€ west side, more sandy in the valleys than on the hill-tops. Ben- zie county presents diversities of soil sirriilarto those of Grand Traverse county. The western border approximates Leelanaw county in its topography and soil. The southeastern part pre sents a continuation of the low sandy belt of the adjoining c ounty. In productiveness the soil of the Grand Traverse region is literally unsurpassed. The evidences of this will be seen when I come to treat of its farm crops and fruits. The proof of it is seen also in the astonishing magnitude of the forest tree which sustain themselves not merely upon the mould which has accumulated upon the surface, but strike their roots deep and 18 draw up stores of vegetable nutriment from the subsoil. The cause of the fertility of these soils is also apparent. Even the most sandy soil of Leelanaw county is unlike the sandy soils of other regions in its constitution. These sands have not been produced by the disintegration of sandstone strata, as is generally the case with sandy soils. There are no sandstone formations within the limits of the region. They are derived trom the disintegi'ation and decomposition of slightly arenaceous limestones. Pebbles of limestone are consequently more or less abundant in the soil — theu' abundance dej)ending upon the pi'oximity of the undisturbed formation. The continual solu- tion of the calcareous matter of these limestone fragments furnishes a never-failing supply of lime to the soQ, at the same time that it disengages additional amounts of sandy particles Irom theii" confinement in the limestone mass. These soils, therefore are naturally charged with the fertilizing constituent of plaster, which is lime — though it is probable that the sul- phuric acid of common plaster exerts also some agency of which lime is incapable — and even this agency is supplied by the decomposing pyrites which the underlying rocks contribute to the soils of the region. Aside from their habitual destitution of fertilizing constitu- ents, arenaceous soils possess physical qualities favorable to pro- ductiveness. A sandy soil is always light. Atmospheric in- fluences are allowed free access to the roots of vegetation, and to the soil constituents which need to be oxygenated for the purposes of agricultural utility. Even the tramping of men and animals fails to solidify them to the same extent as a clayey or even a loamy soil. A sandy soil is, besides, exempt from supersaturation with water ; and yet it holds tenaciously water enough to answer the demands of vegetation. Through the free access of the atmosphei'e this water rapidly evapo- rates, thus surroimding the vegetable with vapor and affording the growing leaf the conditions most favorable to its health and expansion. Finally, a sandy soil is proved, by direct ex- periment, as well as by its promptness in bringing forward a crop, to be a more powerful absorbent of heat than a clayey soil, as well as slower to part with it. The sand is warm much 19 sooner than the atmosphere and retains its warmth after the atmosphere has received its evening chill. Objection has been made to sandy soils, that their fertilizing constituents " leach out." Let us see. It is evident that whatever sinks into the earth, must go in a state of solution. No material particles can be supposed to descend, for we employ this very sand, in filters, to free water from its tm'bidity and sediments. Expe- riment proves that clean sand will even abstract some of the saltness from brine. But if the nutritive elements of the soil disappear in a state of solution in the water, there exists a union between them and the water which cannot be materially aftected, under the actual conditions, until the water is again evaporated. In a period of dry weather, therefore, when sandy soils draw up by capillary attraction a supply of water from beneath, the same fertilizing constituents must return with it to the surface. Here the water, undergoing a rapid evaporation, deposits again the soluble ingredients which it had carried down at the time of the last rains. Thus it appears how na- ture has provided for the permanence of the fertilizing ele- ments of the soil, and how drouths are a part of the rgency employed by nature in preserving from waste the provision which she has made for the perennial nourishment of vegeta- tion. It appears, then, that the physical properties of sandy soils tend greatly to favor the development of vegetation, while, aside from the tendency to wash, it is only a deficiency in cer- tain chemical constituents which has given sandy soils in gen- eral a bad reputation for being rapidly exhausted of their fer- tility. It is apparent, nevertheless, that sandy soils may exist not afiected by such deficiency, and whose origin has been such that an adequate proportion of alkaline constituents has been supplied contemporaneously with the sand, and must continiie to be supplied. The sandy soils of the Grand Traverse region are of this class. They possess, then, all the eminent recom- mendations dependent on the physical constitution of such soils, and all the chemical constituents which belong to strictly argillaceous or calcareous soils. Hence the secret of the euor- 20 mous timber growth of the region, and its surprising agricultu- ral productiveness. Lest it should be objected that sandy soils, unsuited for farm- ing purposes, do sometimes (though rarely, I think,) produce pines and hemlock of a large size, it may be well to remind tlie reader that the Conifera3 — embracing the pines, hemlock, cedars, firs and spruces — incorporate a large proportion of si- licious matter in their constitution, and will flourish well on a soil more purely silicious than other (or gymnospermous) trees. Every one knows that the ashes of the Coniferie are less desir- able for potash manufacture than the ashes of the elm, ash, basswood, maple and beech. It is also notorious that a heavy forest of tlie latter class publishes a favorable account of the soil upon which they have been nourished. VI. CLIMATE. The climate of a region sustains a causal relation to its salu- brity, its accessibility, and the character of its vegetable and animal productions. It is one of the most important consider- ations bearing upon its eligibility for business, settlement and homesteads. Climate depends principally upon three condi- tions — latitude, altitude above the sea, and relation to large bodies of land and water. The Grand Traverse region lies in about the same latitude as Nova Scotia, the middle of Maine, northern Vermont and New York, St. Paul in Minnesota, and Oregon City, Oregon. Its mean elevation above the sea be- ing 800 feet, its mean temperature should be about two and one-tliird degrees lower than that of other places in the same latitude lying at the sea level. Or, since a mean annual differ- ence of two and one-third degrees answers, in the temperate zone, to a difference of latitude of one degree and twenty-four minutes, the mean temperature of the year in the Grand Tra- verse region, in the mean latitude of 44° 52', should agreee Avith other places at the level of the sea in latitude 43" 28', which is about the latitude of Portland, Maine, Lockport, N. Y., and Milwaukie and Prairie du Chien, Wis. 21 I have had access to thermonietrical observations, more or less complete taken at Traverse City (latitude 44° 46') by J. F. Grant, Esq.; at Northport (latitude 45° 08') by Rev. George N. Smith, and at Grand Traverse (latitude 44° 57') by Dr. H. R. Schetterly. An abstract of observations taken at Traverse City for six successive winters is given below : Table I. Abstract of 3Ieteorolor/iccd Observations at Traverse City. HIGHEST. LOWEST. MEANS. "|7am 1pm 7pm 1 7am ' Ip m 1 7pm II 7am 1pm* 7pm Day 1859-60. Dec.f... 35 37 38 -6 9 8 17 24 20 20 Jau 46 52 45 -5 7 -7 19 30 22 24 Feb 42 49 45 -14 10 16 28 21 22 March. . 48 64 63 13 19 21 29 41 34 'dn Winter . 48 64 63 -14 7 -7 20 31 24 25 1860-1. Decf... 35 37 35 -2 13 12 17 24 21 21 Jan 31 36 33 -11 10 1 17 24 20 20 Feb. . . . 44 59 44 -10 -12 -13 21 29 25 25 March:}: . 40 50 42 -8 -2 -6 21 30 23 25 Winter . 44 59 44 -11 -12 -13 19 27 22 23 1861-3 1 ' Dec 58 58 55 12 16 14 29 37 32 33 Jan 32 39 34 -9 -6 -1 14 25 20 20 Feb .... 34 44 33 -15 5 1 14 25 19 19 March . . 36 44 46 9 14 17 25 36 31 31 Winter . 58 58 55 -15 5 -1 20 33 25 26 1862-8 Dec 42 50 50 2 14 14 27 34 30 30 Jan 47 50 46 7 8 10 27 33 30 30 Feb--. 34 49 47 -10 8 3 18 29 24 24 March . . 38 46 40 15 19 9 25 32 27 28 Winter . 47 46 50 -10 8 3 25 32 28 28 1863-4 1 Dec 37 44 44 -2 21 10 24 31 27 27 Jan 34 45 39 -14 -4 -12 18 26 22 22 Felj .... 37 45 41 -14 -2 -9 22 29 24 25 March. . 39 54 44 -10 10 1 21 33 25 26 Winter . 39 54 44 -14 -4 -12 21 30 24 25 1864-5 Dec . . . . Jan Feb . . . . March. . Winter . 40 46 37 -1 7 6 21 27 23 33 38 33 1 11 5 18 35 20 33 45 42 -6 5 -4 18 31 23 34 21 24 Five Winters I 58 I 64 63 -15 -12 -13 21.0 I I 30.6 |24.6|25.4 ♦Observations were taken at noon durins; the winter of 1859-60. tObservatious began December 8th, 1859, and December 12th, 1860. ^Ending with the 25th. 22 e ^ o •rsj -^ e ^ fl d- O (7* tH CO 00 ■^ t- ^ ^ o T-< 00 « o Tj< CO s CO c? t- CD o> f ©? 05 00 lO Si ^-" T— H *? T-l 1-1 Oi 1 w a 1 1 1 1 1 CO -5*< lO 00 « c- o t- OD ffj (M ? t -* T =? T CO c> ? OS 3^ o (M 00 Ti< 00 o o o c? -># (X) cS OQ t- o tH 05 1-1 00 (M t- C^i JO o JO w. •* lO lO lO lO CO o 05 o tH 00 00 «o lO CO 00 1-1 o CO t- CD o 00 o? 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CO (M 1 c^ W^ s lO CO o o o CO 1 o l.O CO <>« o CO iO CO CO? • i-s < 23 Before proceeding to discuss the foregoing table it will be proper to present another one furnishing certain additional in- formation in reference to the localities embraced in Table II. In order that comparisons of temperature instituted amongst diflerent places may convey correct ideas, such comparisons ought to be made between corresponding years, and for long periods of time. Where the number of years embraced is few, and one of them happens to have been tmusually mild or unu- sually severe, the eflect upon the means is considerable. The periods of the observations upon which the results of Table II. were calculated are therefore given in the 4th column of Table III. As altitude is also an important element in such comparisons, the altitudes of the places are given, as far as known, in the 3d column of Table III. The latitudes of the same localities are given in the 2d column of Table III. The first seven places, it will be seen, are not far removed from the latitude of Traverse City. The remaining localities have been introduced into the discussion for the purpose of showing that places much further south possess a winter climate more severe than that of Traverse City. Table, III. Supplementary to Table II. Places. Latitude. Altitude Period ab'vesealev. of Obser. Traverse City 44° 45' 44° 07' 45° 00' 44° 25' 44° 11' 45° 30' 45° 24' 42° 16' 42° 42' 42° 30' 525 ft. 540 ft. 75 ft. 118 ft. 150 ft. 891 ft. 768 ft. 680 ft. 1859-65 Manitowac 1856-9 Hazlewood 1954-9 St. Johnsbury 1854-9 Gardiner 1855-9 Montreal 1855-64 Portland 1859 Ann Arbor 1854-7 Janesville 1854-9 Dubuque 1854-9 The second and third columns of Table II. show for each place the mean of the December maxima and m,ini'ma during the years covered by the observations — that is the mean of all the highest December observations for the several years, and 24 the same of the lowest. The fourth cohxmn shows the lowest degree reached by the thermometer in December, dm-iug the whole period of observations for each place. The fifth column exhibits for each place the mean temperature of all the De- cembers embraced in the period of the observations. The remaining columns of the Table give the same results for the months of January, February and March. Of the localities lying nearly on the parallel of Traverse City, it will be observed that Manitowoc is located immediate- ly on the western shore of Lake Michigan, and has Green Bay lying not over 35 miles to the north. It necessarily experien- ces therefore some modifieation of its winter climate from the influence of those large bodies of water. In this respect it seems even to be more favored than Milwaukie, 75 miles fur- ther south, which has colder winters — the diiference, perhaps, being the measure of the influence of Green Bay upon the winter climate of Manitowoc. Portland, Oregon, is under the influence of the Pacific ocean, as the observations show. Hazlewood, Min., Montreal and St. Johnsbury are situated in- land, and may be taken as fairly representing the continental temperature on their parallels, as unmodified by large bojies of water. The adaptation of a winter climate to the safe wintering of fruit trees and farming croj^s is not indicated by the mean tem- perature of the winter, nor by the mean temperature of the several months. Nevertheless, when this comparison is made, we perceive that the climate of Traverse City is milder than that of any other locality given in the table — Portland, Oregon, of course, excepted. In the month of December Manitowoc is over one degree colder ; Hazlewood, 12^°; St. Johnsbui-y, 8^° ; Gardiner, 5^° ; Montreal, 7° ; Ann Arbor, 1^° ; Janesville, 2f° ; Dubuque, 1°. In the month of January ManitOAvoc is 2^° colder than Tra- verse City; Hazlewood, 15f° colder; St. Johnsbury, 5°; Gar- dmer, 5^°; Montreal, 10f°; Ann Arbor, 3°; JanesviUe, U^" ; Dubuque, 2°. In the month of February Manitowoc is half a degree warm- er than Traverse City; Hazlewood, 10^° colder; St. Johns- 25 bury, 9^° ; Gardiner, 4^° ; Montreal, 6°; Ann Ai'bor, 4° ; Janes- ville, 4°; Dubuque, 2°. In the month of March the mean of the more southern local- ities begins to feel the influence of occasional warm southei'ly and southwesterly winds, while Traverse City is stUl environed by the winter temperatures imj^risoned in the ice of the bay. It is the extremes of winter temperature which jDroduce such frequent destruction of the more delicate varieties of fruit trees. The table furnishes the mean minima of the several places for the cold months of the year. In December the mean mini- mum of Manitowoc is 4° lower than at Traverse City ; of Ha- zlewood, 15|° lower; of St. Johnsbury, 23^° ; of Gardiner, 13|°; of Montreal, 15°; of Ann Arbor, 1°; of Janesville, 8f°; of Dubuque, 3f °. In January the mean m,inimutn of Manitowoc is 5^° below that of Traverse City ; of Hazlewood, 18^° ; ojf St. Johnsbury, 17^°; of Gardiner, 17^°; of Montreal, 16^°; of Ann Ai-bor, 5^°; of Janesville, 17°; of Dubuque, 3°. In Februaiy the mean m,inim,utn of Manitowoc for the years compared is 3° higher higher than at Traverse City ; of Hazle- wood, 9° lower; of St. Johnsbury, 14f° lower; of Gardiner, 1° higher ; of Montreal, 8^° lower; of Ann Arbor, the same; of Janesville, 12|^° lower; of Dubuque, f° lower. The mean tninimum, for March is lower for every one of the places compared with Traverse City, except Portland, Ore- gon. The favorable character of the winter climate of Traverse City is placed in a stUl stronger light if we compare the ex- treme m,inim,a for a series of years. The mean m,inimum may be of moderate severity, while on one or two occasions in the coiu-se of the winter, or still more likely within a range of five or six years, the mercury may sink to the damaging limit. The extrem,e m,imm,um, of Manitowoc compared with that of Tra- verse City is seen to be, in tho month of December, 10° lower; of Hazlewood, 22°; of St. Johnsbury, 28°; of Gardiner, 19°; of Montreal, 26°; of Ann Arbor, 3°; of Janesville, 14°; of Dubuque, 10°. 26 In January, the extreme minimum of Manitowoc is 8° lower than at Traverse City; of Hazlewood, 18°; of St. Johnsbury, 26°; of Gardiner, 18°; of Montreal, 16°; of Ann Arbor, 10°; ofJanesviDe, 15°; of Dubuque, 6°. In February, the extrem,e m^inimum, of Manitowoc is 1° lower than of Traverse City; of Hazlewood, 13°; of St. Johnsbury, 16°; of Gardiner, 3° ; of Montreal, 22°; of Ann Arbor, 1° higher; of Janesville, 9° lower; of Dubuque, 5° lower. It thus appears that under every point of view the winter climate of Traverse City is materially milder than that of other places in the same latitude either east or west. It is materially milder than that of places two and a half degrees further south. The minimum range of the thermometer being but 15° below zero, it does not reach the point at which peach trees are in- jured; and in this respect the wmter climate compares favor- ably with that of middle Ohio, Indiana and Illinois. Indeed, the winter extremes for ten years past, during which peach trees have been growing in the Grand Traverse region, have been less than at Cincinnati or St. Louis, or even Memphis, in Tennessee. During the memorable "cold spell" of New Year's 1864, the thermometer is reporte-d to have sunk at Mil- waukie and Janesville, Wis. to 40° below zero ; at Chicago, to 29° below; at Kalamazoo, Mich., to 20° below; at St. Louis, to 24° below ; and at Memphis, Tenn., to 16° below. The follow- ing figures exhibit the movement of the mercury at Northport and Traverse City during the same interval : Table lY. Observations during the cold cycle of 1863-4. Northport. Traverse City. 1863-4. 7 A. M. 2 p. M. 10 p. M. 7 a. m. 1 p. M. 7 p. M. Dec. 31. Jan. 1. „ 2. „ 3. „ 4. „ 5. 23 -14 -3 4 11 28 -8 -6 2 11 16 18 -14 -3 8 7^ 20 3 -14 3 1 8 29 -2 -4 10 17 19 28 -12 -3 3 8 13 This cycle of cold weather, which extended over the entire northwest and destroyed or damaged fruit trees in every 27 northwestern State, caused no damage whatever in the Grand Traverse region. Another characteristic of the winter of this region is its com- parative uniformity of temperature. The mercury neither rises as high nor sinks as low as in other regions along the same parallel of latitude. Other comparisons are no less surprising than those which have just been made. Autumnal frosts are postponed to a re- markably late period. Unlike other regions, frost seldom ap- pears till the mercury actually reaches 32°. The first killing frosts ordinarily occur throughout the region, between the middle and end of October. Sometimes they are delayed till late in November. They occur at Traverse City and south- ward from there somewhat earlier than at Northport, Glen Arbor and Frankfort. The first killing frost this year at Trav- erse City was a slight one, October 13th, but it did not reach Northport. Tomatoes and other tender vegetables were still growing thriftily at Northport and Pine River, and even at the head of Little Traverse bay, when I visited those places, Oct. 27th and 28th. On the night of the 28th, however, the thermo- meter sank to the freezing point, and injured vegetation gener- ally throughout the region. On the 5th of November, it froze again. At the same time the mercury sank to 24° at Ann Arbor, and to zero at Bangor, in Maine. Nevertheless, when I left the region on the 8th of November, the leaves of apple and peach trees were still perfectly green, while those of the forest were partially changed and beginning to fall. On reach- ing the southei-n part of the State, vegetation presented already the appearance of mid-winter. Autumnal frosts occur only after days of very threatening severity. I observed that when, during the day, the thenno- meter rises as high as 40°, it is seldom crowded down to the freezing point the following night. At Ann Arbor we often get frost after the thermometer has been at 60° during the pre- vious day. Snow falls in November or December, before the ground has been materially frozen, and lies without thaAving till the following April. It accumulates to the depth of two or three 28 feet, and sometimes, in certain localities, to a greater dej^tb. Its disappearance is postponed till abouth the 10th of April, when the danger of severe frost is generally passed. The ground consequently escapes freezing throughout the entire winter, so that root crops may be left out without damage. Potatoes are thus, frequently, wintered in the ground without digging. It always happens that the few remaining in the soil after the crop has been gathered, vegetate in the following sjM-ing, and produce a spontaneous crop. Thus they propagate themselves from year to year, so that the Irish potato has be- come a naturalized weed, growing in corn fields and wheat fields, and sometimes in uncultivated fields, and by the road side. I saw potatoes growing in places where I was informed no seed had been planted for ten years. The same preservative eifects of snow are witnessed m other crops, and in the bulbs, tubers and roots of ornamental plants. The Dahlia blooms till the last of October, and after this the tubers may be left in the soil till the following spring, when, not long after the disapj^earance of the snow, they send up fresh shoots. Delicate green-house roses stand out with the same impunity as in Alabama and Louisiana. Mrs. Judge Fowler, of Majjleton, on the Peninsula, informed me that she had in her garden forty varieties of delicate roses, which stand out every winter. Wheat, of course, is never in danger of winter-killing in a region thus exempt from extremes of cold, and thus clothed during the entire winter with a thick mantle of snow. The presence of snow till the middle of April preserves vege- tation from the stimulating influence of occasional warm days, and the buds of fruit trees consequently remain dormant till the danger of severe frost is passed. When the snow finally dis- appears, the soil is in a condition to receive immediately the genial infiuence of sunshine and atmospheric action. The dis- agreeable period of mud caused by the slow escape of frost from the soil is unknown. The breaking up of the ice in the bay exposes the entire region to the equalizing influence of large bodies of water, and the region is thus nearlv as exempt from the destructive eflfects of late vernal frosts, as from those 29 of late autumnal ones. No damaging frost is liable to occur later than the middle of May, which is about the pei-iod of latest frosts in northern and middle Ohio. The mean temperatures of the four winter months at Grand Traverse, for five years, are as follows : December 25°.2 Januaiy 23°, 2 February 23°. March 29°.0 The following are the means of four months of the year 1860 at Northport: January 22°. 48 February 22°. 91 March 33°. 91 April 40°.33 The temperature of summer is as remarkable for its modera- tion and uniformity as that of winter. I have not had the op- portunity to examine any record of thermometrical observa- tions made during the summer, but the summer climate is ad- mitted to be exempt from extremes and sudden changes. Yet the mean temperature is sufficiently high to mature peaches, tomatoes, tobacco and the like. The facts which I have disclosed above touching the winter climate of the Grand Traverse region are well calculated to excite surprise ; but I think no one can question the figures. A moment's reflection, moreover, will reveal the reason for the peculiarities of the climjite of this portion of the State. The Grand Traverse region, like the peninsula of Florida, Sweden and the British islands, is subjected to the equalizing influences of large bodies of water. Lake Michigan borders the whole western slope of the State. In the region under consideration the body of water is greatly augmented by the bay which reaches its two arms thirty-four miles into the interior. Moreover, the triangle forming Leelanaw county is embraced by two large bodies of water, and enjoys a sitiiation unlike that of any other portion of the northwestern States. Our cold winds generally proceed from the southwest or west. Passing over the open water of Lake Michigan sixty miles in width, the temperature of which never sinks below 32°, it is impossible to avoid ab- 30 stracting a considerable amount of heat, so that when these cold westerly winds strike the Michigan shores of the lake, the severity of the winter gales is materially mitigated. Moreover, the severest and most destructive winter gales proceed from the southwest, and the trend of the lake is such that these winds, on striking the Grand Traverse shore have traveled over more water than southwest winds striking the Michigan shore in Ottawa, Van Buren and St. Joseph counties. But the thermometer on some occasions sinks to a minimum with an easterly or even a southeasterly wind — as in February, 1857, when it sank twenty-four degrees below zero at Ann Ar- bor with an easterly wind and a cloudy sky. Before such winds the eastern shore of lake Michigan in St. Joseph county and northward experiences no j^rotection from the proximity of a large body of water. In the Grand Traverse region, on the contrary, the diameter of the peninsula is so much diminished that easterly winds retain the softening influence exerted by the waters of lake Huron. Moreover, the whole of Leelanaw county enjoys nearly as complete protection from easterly as from westerly winds. It is almost impossible for a gale from any direction to bring into Leelanaw county a tempera- ture of eighteen or twenty degrees below zero, the point at which the Ihnbs of peach trees are liable to be killed. No observations on the other elements of climate have been brought under my observation. It is obvious, however, that a region so environed by water must possess an atmosphere of suflicient humidity to offer a guarantee against habitual drouths. I am informed that no severe drouth has ever been experienced before the summer of 1864, when the whole north- west was parched to an unprecedented extent. VII. SALUBRITY. A region possessing such a climate, and such physical fea- tures as have been described above, can scarcely offer any other than favorable sanitary conditions. Accordingly, I was every- where assured by the inhabitants of the region that diseases are almost unknown. I heard of a few cases of typhoid fever in the neighborhood of Glen Arbor, and a few cases of dysen- tery about Leland and in Antrim county. Bilious diseases are foreign to the country. No ague was ever known to be indi- genous to the region. On tlie contrary, many chronic cases of suffering from malarious influence have been relieved and cured by a residence in the region. The uniformity ot the tempera- ture and the purity of the air and water are also favorable in pulmonary diseases ; and I learned of some rheumatic affec- tions that had been cured by a few months residence. VIII. TIMBER AND NATIVE PLANTS. Passing from a survey of the physical features of the Grand Traverse region, I proceed to offer a brief account of its natu- ral history. Generally speaking the region is covered by a magnificent growth of hardwood timber. The exceptions to this statement are few and unimportant. By far the most abundant species is the sugar maple {Acer saccharinum). This distributed generally throughout the region on both sides of the bay. It bears, however, a larger ratio to the whole forest on the west side. Mingled with this are the beech [Fagus st/^-ya^ica), white or American elm (l/lmus Americana), onA hemlock [Abies Canadoisis). The beech, as might be expected, is more abundant on the more coherent soils of the east side of the bay and in Grand Traverse county. The hemlock is pretty generally scattered through the forest of Leelanaw, Grand Traverse and Benzie counties, forming on an average about one fifteenth, or less, of the forest growth. It occurs less fre- quently in Antrim county. In certain situations where the soil is most retentive we encoimter patches of forest diversified with the black ash [Fraxinus sambucifolia), while the arbor vitae, or western " white cedar " ( Thuja occide7italis) holds joint possession with the balsam fir {Abies balsamea), in some moist and wet lands, and the tamarack {Larix Americana) sometimes crowds itself into the company of the other deni- zens of the ocv asional swamps. The white pine {Pinus stro- bus) is very partially distributed. Some majestic specimens — individuals of which attain a diameter of nearly five feet — may be seen in the south part of Leelanaw county on the east of Cedar run, where some wasteful settlers are engaged in fell- 32 ing them in winrows and wickedly burning them. A vahiable belt of white pine lies in the southeastern part of Benzie county on the upper waters of the Bees Scies river, and an- other on the upper waters of Boardman river in Grand Tra- verse county, whence the logs are floated to Traverse City and worked up in the mill of Hannah, Lay & Co., which, accord- ing to the "Statistics of Michigan, 1864," produced in 1863 10,200,000 feet of pine hmiber, worth $112,000. The j^roduct of the present year is said to be twelve million feet. Another pinery exists in the interior of Antrim county on the tributa- ries of Grass lake. The logs from here are worked up in the mill of Dexter and Noble at Elk Rapids, which, according to the authority above quoted, produced, in 1863, 4,000,000 feet, valued at |1 0,000 — a valuation which would seem to be erro- neous. The product of the present year is probably nine mil- lions of feet. The county of Leelanaw is also reported to have produced in 1863, 395,000 feet of lumber (probably but little of it pine lumber), valued at $91,500.* Occasionally, as on the Peninsula, I noticed the Norway pine {Pinus resinosa) in company with the white pine, spar- ingly dispersed through the forest. The oak is not regularly distributed ; but in certain regions it constitutes an important feature. I observed the red and white oaks ( Quercus rubra and alba) growing abundantly on the sandy plains about the head of the two arms of Grand Traverse bay. I noticed the red oak growing also at Elk Rapids, and both oaks on the Peninsula. A grove of white oaks inter- spersed with black oaks, occupying 200 acres, flourishes on the north side of Round lake. I saw them also on the shores of Crystal lake in Grand Traverse county ; on the ridges back of Glen lake ; between Carp lake and Sutton's bay and in many other places. The trembling aspen or poplar ( Populus gran- didentata) is quite frequent fcbout the borders of clearings — especially on the Peninsula — while the balsam popular ( Pop- *These statistics, taken from the work referred to, disclose some curi- ous discrepancies. Following the figures, one dollar buys 4 feet of lum- ber in Lenawee county, 90 feet at Traverse City, and 400 feet at Elk Rapids. 33 ulus balsamifera ) is also occasionally seen in all parts of the region. I was greatly interested to notice this tree straggling for an existence on the bleak and sterile plateau of the Sleep- ing Bear Point. Its gnarled and miserably dwarfed condition proclaimed the nature of the conflict it had endm*ed ; and a wonder ai'ises Avhy a tree so ill adapted to the situation should attempt to establish itself where nothing else can maintain an existence. The yellow birch ( Betula excelsa ) is a frequent denizen of the forest, and sometimes grows to an extraordinary size. A specimen seen in Antrim county measured eleven feet and four inches in circumference four feet above the ground. The false white birch ( Betula popxdifolia ) is also frequently en- countered. The black cherry ( Cerasus serotina ) is not un- frequent, and sometimes becomes a troublesome intruder on the borders of clearings. The soft maple ( Ace7' rubrum ) occurs sparingly about Antrim and probably in other localities. This primitive forest presents to the eye of the traveller a scene of wonderful majesty, magnificence and interest. The towering hemlocks with their straight cylindrical trunks often three, four, or nearly five feet in diameter expand their crown of dark green spray at the summit, while the majestic maple, beech and elm lift their heads to an equal altitude, and mingle their paler and brighter foliage with that of the sombre ever- green. The undergrowth is scant, consisting of the striped maple ( Acer Pennsylvanicum ) and witch hazel ( Hamamelis Virginica) with patches of dwarf yew or ground hemlock ( Taxus Canadensis') — the latter of which is much more abun- dant on the west side of the bay. The forest is therefore an endless colonnade of majestic pillars; and, but for the prostrate forms of the fallen patriarchs of the wood, a vehicle could be driven through the unbroken forest from one end of the region to the other. Some of the low grounds in the vicinity of Glen Arbor are covered with the cranberry vine ( Oxy coccus macrocarpus) and the half shaded borders of the lakes are often clothed with the evergreen bearberry ( Arctostaphylos iiva-iirsi. In most half-open situations the blackbei-ry ( Mubus villosus) and red 34 raspberry ( Ruhus strigosus ) flourish luxuriantly and afford an inexhaustible supply of fruit. The raspberry sometimes produces two crops in the season. I saw at several places, ripe fruit, green fruit and flowers existing together in the lat- ter part of October, upon canes of the current year's growth. The huckleberry ( Gaylussacia resinosa ) is also abundant in the sandy clearings about the head of the bay. The native strawberry of the region is Fragaria Virginiana, and it may be seen in fruit from June to October. A singular and interesting assemblage of trees and shrubs covers the Sleeping Bear proper, and by its dark green foli- age strongly isolates this pile of sand from the shining desert around it. The only trees upon the mound, besides some dwarfish balm of Gileads, are the balsm fir and white cedar. A stump of one of the latter, cut by the operators of the Lake Survey, measured two feet in diameter. The shrubs consist of the trailing red cedar {Juniperus Sabinoe), choke cherry { Cerasus Virginiana), dogwood {Cornus florida), snow- berry [Symphoricarpus occidentalis), bearberry, wild rose, {Rosa blandaf) and frost grape ( Vitis cordifolia). The fruit of the latter, as well as that of the choke cherry was found to be quite palatable, though the leaves of the grape seemed to be uninjured by the frost, as late as the 24th of October. It is quite certain that the southern side of this lofty mound of sand would ripen the Isabella or Catawba grape with complete success. It will be remarked that the vegetation of the region does not present a northern aspect. The northern white birch ( Betula papyracca ) is wanting, and the fir and spruce are but very feebly represented. The native strawberry is the Virginian species, and the pendent lichens, so marked a feature of the lake shore forest on the opposite side of the Peninsula, in the same latitude, ai-e entirely unknown. IX. ANIMALS. It is not intended imder this head to attempt an enumeration of all the animals of even a single class ; but only to bring 35 together a few statements of greater or less economical inter- est. The most conspicuous mammalian quadrupeds are the black bear ( Vrsus A'tnericamis ) the Virginian deer ( Cervus Virginianus), the red fox ( Vulpesfulvtis), the otter {Lutru Canadensis ) and various squirrels — among wich I noticed the black variety (juite frequently. The bear is nearly confined to the remote portions of Benzie, Grand Traverse and Kalkasca counties. Of birds, the ruffed grouse or partridge ( Bonasa umbellus ) is the most important, and affords a valuable article of food. The quail ( Ortyx Yirginianus ) has recently been observed in considerable numbers. Of fishes, the usual lake species occur in the bay, but not in such numbers to render fishing a business of mucli importance. The speckled trout ( 8almo fontlnaUs ) occurs plentifully in all the streams of the region, and in many of the small lakes. Among insects, the mosquito ( osition both in Grand Traverse and Thunder bay. It is ranged immediately above the limestones of the Hamilton group instead of below them, in the place of the Marcellus shale. Moreover, the black shale of the Hm-on group, though almost uniformly destitute of marine fossils, has at length afford- ed me a few specimens from near the mouth of Bear Creek, in (■anada West. Among these I identify Discina Lodensis and Leiorhynchics muUicosta — species known to be restricted to rocks above the Marcellus shale in the State of New York. The black shale of the Huron group is known to be succeed- ed in ascending order by a great thickness of whitish or green- ish and more or less calcareous shales and clays ranged under the same group, though thus far totally unproductive of fossils for the determination of their affinities. The most consj^icuous outcrop is seen on the east shore of Grand Traverse bay at 893 ^ — Sec. 36 T. 32 N. 9 W., Antrim county — extending thence southward for half a mile or more. It seems to be formed by a gentle swell of the formation, with minor subordinate undu- lations. The rocks are a calcareo-aluminous shale, occurring in layers from half an inch to two or three inches in thickness. In some portions of the exposure, the layers are somewhat arena- (a^ous, and at times assume the characters of a shally argilla- ceous sandstone. The whole thickness exposed is about 15 feet. Two noticeable folds occur at this exposure Avithin 30 feet of each other, and a third a few rods fui'ther north. The first and last present each a downthrow of about a foot. The middle one is much the greatest, presenting a downthrow of about four feet. These dislocations are not j^roperly faults, for the strata are not fissured, but rather folded as if by a powerful lateral pressure. This is as great a disturbance of the strata aS 52 has been noted in the lower peninsula — a similar one occurrino; in rocks of nearly the same age in the neighborhood of Pt. anx Barques. The green shales strike southwest across the bay, but no actual outcrop of rocks of this character has been observed in that direction. Areef of light calcareous shale exists off" Mission Point, and, judging from knowledge of the formation obtained in other parts of the State, the position of this reef is probably above the green shale, but not far removed. Striking diagon- ally across the " Peninsula," the light calcareous shale appears just beneath the water level on the north side of Tucker's Point, —Sec. 17 T. 29 K 10 W. I have not discovered the means of tracing the green and light colored shales any further. It may be assumed, liowever, that their strike continues southwesterly along a line nearly parallel with the outcrop of the black shale. Their thickness is not adequately indicated by the few exposures accessible, since, in other portions of the State we find it to reach four or five hundred feet. It is probable that this series of greenish and light colored, argillaceous and arenaceous shales corresponds to the Portage group of New York. If the overlying Marshall sandstone should finally be shown to occupy a position above the Che- mung group of New York, it will become necessary to admit that the shales under consideration embrace both the Portage and Chemung groups of New York. In this case, the Huron group, as orginally defined, will extend from the bottom of the Genesee shale to the to^) of the Chemung group. 6. Marshall Sandsone. — No stratified rocks higher in the series than the light shales have been observed within the limits of the Grand Traverse region. There are, however, geological reasons for believing that the southeastern poi'tion of this region is underlaid by the buff, and triable sandstone of the Marshall group, which immediately succeeds the Huron group. Noth- mg more than an approximate indication of the boundary of this sandstone can be made; and this has been at- tempted on the map, by drawnig a line so as to cut oft' nearly 53 the whole of Kalkasca county, and the southeastern angles of Antrim and Grand Traverse counties. v. Dkift Materials. — All parts of the Grand Traverse re- gion, like other portions of the lower peninsula, are buried be- neath accumulations of sand, gravel and clay, entirely destitute of a stratified arrangement, or presenting only a confused or irregular stratification. These deposits are the product of geo- logical agencies that have been at work during the last period of the world's history. Their average thickness in this region is unknown. It is probable, however, that they are 50 feet thick at Northport, 60 at Sutton's bay, 100 at Traverse City, and from two to four hundred in the interior of Leelanaw and Ben- zie counties. If we examine the structure of these deposits, we find the surface generally composed of sand, with occasional belts and jxatches of clay. The sandy constitution extends downward a varying depth, sometimes 50 or 100 feet; but we always en- counter, sooner or later, one or more beds of clay. The clay deposits are in the form of vast sheets or basins, inclining at all angles, ovei'lapping each other in various ways, and disposed at various depths, with sand both above and below. The bot- tom of the drift accumulations, however, is made up, generally, in this, as in other regions, of an enormous bed of clay, pebbles and boulders, resting on the outcropping edges of the rocks. If we examine the mineral constitution of the Drift de- posits, we find that most of the boulders and pebbles of the underclay are derived from granitic, syenitic, dioritic, quartz- ose and gaeissoid rocks, and micaceous, talcose, hoi'nblendic and silicious schists. No such rocks are found in place within 150 miles. These fragments have been transported from the upper peninsula of the State. We find corroboration of this opinion in the discovery of masses of native copper mingled with the other materials. One such mass found near Northport weighed pounds, and was sold for eighty dol- lars. If we examine the fragments of rock disseminated through the arenaceous and more superficial portions of the Drift, we dis- cover, from their mineral character and their fossil remains, that they have been to a great extent derived from the rocks im- 54 mediately underlying, or outcroppins; but limited distances to- wards the north. The coarser Drift materials are, therefore, partly of local and partly of foreign origin. The s'ource of the fine sand and the fine argillaceous deposits is somewhat more obscure. Without attempting to elaborate the evidences, it is enough to state that the boulder clay is believed to have had a northern origin, while the fine sand may have been derived from rocks of various ages, removed to various distances from their place of deposit, but is believed to have been mainly derived from arenaceous limestones of the Hamilton, Cornifer- ous and Onondaga salt groups. The innumerable fragmcTits of these limestones — especially the Hamilton — dis- seminated through the soil and subsoil, have been for ages undergoing a slow decomposition. The calcareous matter escapes in a state of solution and affords an important fertiliz- ing constituent of the soil, while the imperishable grains of sand loosened from their bonds by the solution of the calcareous cement, become a principal portion of the finer material of the soil. It is a very general opinion that the ruggedness of some j^or- tions of the Grand Traverse region is caused by disturbances of the underlying strata. I have, however, failed to discover any correspondence between the configuration of the surface and that of the underlying rocks. Tlie hills are mere piles of Drift materials. The Drift was originally left Avith an imeven surface, but the depressions have been subsequently further scooped out by the erosive action of rains and torrents. The same agencies are continually wearing down the hills by removing the finer and looser materials to the valleys. If the configuration of the hills be attributed to uplifts of the under- lying rocks, this is to suppose that the underlying rocks have at some time undergone a great degree of dis- turbance — much greater than the appearance of the rocks would wari'ant at any place where we have been enabled to in- spect them. We know that everywhere else the strata of the lower peninsula repose in nearly horizontal planes. It is only in eruptive regions like that of Lake Superior, that we find the rocks forming the backbone of the hills. 5h But Ave need not speculate on the constitution of the hills. , The erosion of lake Michigan along the eastern shore has gnawed away the land, till in some instances, the water-line has been carried to the very heart of the highest eminences in the country. The sloping lakeward faces of Mount Carp, North Unity, Sleeping Bear Point, Empire Bluff and Ft. aux Bees Scies are natural sections through the highest parts of some of the hills. In every case they fail to disclose any rocky ledges, but on the contrary, exhibit accumulations of pebbles, sand and clay to the very water's edge. The topography and vegetation of Sleeping Bear Point have been already described ; and I have just stated that this pro- minent land-mark from the lake is merely an enormous pile of diluvial rubbish. Toward the base, thick bands of pale bluish and purplish clay crop out, separated by beds of gravel and sand. Some portions of the surface also expose masses of gravel rendered adhesive by an intermixture of clay. Here and there a huge boulder protrudes above the general suface, polished like the smaller fragments, by the incessant pelting of sand particles driven before the wind. Much of the plateau is strewn with small angular fragments of chert; and it was long before I accounted for the preservation of their sharp angles among deposits that have suffered so much from attrition. I discovered at length a few large boulders of chei't-bearing limestone — apparently from the Chert Beds of the Hamilton group, as I subsequently learned — in which imbedded masses of chert had been shattered in situ, perhaps by the action of frost. The dissolution of the inclosing limestones loosens the cherty chips, and the winds and rains strew them over the bald surface of the plateau. The beds of clay at the bottom of the Drift are frequently found so free from pebbles and so evenly stratified as to be easily mistaken for some member of the ai'gillaceous series of the Huron group. This is the case with some of the beds out- cropping in the high beach of lake Michigan, between Leland and Cathead Point, as also at North Unity and Sleeping Bear, and on the west side of the Peninsula south of Bower's harbor. In other cases the similitude of an older formation outcropping 56 171 sitit is sometimes assumed by beds of fine sand either cemented by carbonate of lime, so abundant in the soil, or simply stuck together by clay. Phenomena of this kind are ob- served in the bed and bank of a small creek at Provemont, and also on the east shore of Carp lake, north of " the narrows." The latter kind of formation is comparatively recent, as is proved by the presence of inclosed stems or leaves of modern vegetation, or the shells of fresh water molluscs, or by the oc- currence of uncemented Drift beneath them. The former kind of formation may be assigned to its true position by observing whether, in any part of its extent, it embraces water-worn peb- bles, or jDresents great and abrupt variations in constitution, in the regularity of its stratification, the thickness of the separate layers or the persistence of the dip. 8. Ligjstitic Deposits. — At numerous places in the Grand Traverse region we find accumulations of vegetable matter and silt presenting a brown or blackish color, and occuring under a somewhat stratified arrangement. These accumulations occupy a position above all the stratified rocks, and the indications are that they are of more recent date than the boulder clays. At the same time we often discover tliick deposits of sand, clay and shingle resting above them. They occur at various eleva- tions, from a depth of eight or ten feet beneath the water level of lake Michigan to the height of fifty feet above. The most noteworthy instances Avill be cited. In the neighborhood of Brownstown, at the southern termi- nation of the green shale already described, occurs the follow- ing series of strata : Section of Ziignitic Deposit. F. Fine yellow sand — the subsoil of the region 12 ft. E. Small boulders, pebbles and coarse sand with shells of MeJania and Physa 7 ft. D. Clay, soft, arenaceous and bituminous 2 ft. C. Xilgnite, somewhat impure, containing stems of cedar and other exogenous vegetation, passing above and below into a more argillaceous state . . 3 ft. B. Clay, dark gray, very tough, with some sand and small pebbles and bituminous matter 2^ft. A. Green clay, ap])earing to be produced by the disin- tegration of the green shale which holds a position immediately below, though not in juxtaposition, 2 ft. 57 The clay, lignite and green shale lie nearly in the same level, and their succession is made out only by carrying the observa- tions laterally for a short distance. The lignite beds are spoken of as bituminous. They are so to some extent, but most of the vegetable matter is rather in a peaty or carbona- ceous condition. The foregoing observations were made in 1860. At the present time a large part of the exposure is covered up by sand, Avhicli has run down from above. But, on the other hand, we were now enabled to make observations which were not made five years ago. The lignitic bed is found passing under the sand which intervenes between the blufi" and the Avater's edge, and can be seen beneath the water at a distance of three rods from the shore. Moreover, I was informed by a fisherman, that they penetrate it in driving their stakes for pound nets where I saw them, at the distance of a third of a mile from the shore, in water said to be eight or ten feet deep. The occurrence of this deposit at such a depth beneath the water level, and at such a distance from the shore, renders it necessary to adopt with great caution, any ex^^lanation iden- tifying it with an ancient accumulation of drift wood stranded on the beach. At the same time there are not sufficient evi- dences of its sedimentary origin; especially since, at other localities, a similar formation is found at considerable eleva- tions above the lake. On the east side of Carrying Point, near Northport, I ob- served a similar deposit at the water's edge, and extending a few inches beneath the surface. This rests on the vmdulating surface of a shingle beach, and, in one or two places, is seen to extend back into the borders of the forest, passing under the recent accumulations of leaves and shrubbery, and pre- senting the ordinary characters of a peaty deposit. Again, on the sloj^ing face of Sleeping Bear Point, in the vicinity of the " Little Bear," are seen bands of dark, ligmtic matter, forming irregularly disposed belts along the exposed section. On examination, some of these are foimd to consist of sand, mhigled with peaty particles. Above and below is 58 blown sand, and the whole mass is apparently a mere dnnc formation — the peaty particles assorted out by eddies of wind. These peaty 2i:xrticles, however, had their origin in the turfy soils with Avhich some portions of this Point liave, at some time, been covered, and relics of which are found still pre- served, and i^resentii.g, in other places along this bluff, out- Ciopping beds of better characterized lignitic material. Similar accumulations of peaty or lignitic matter are exposed by the erosion of most of the streams emptying into Carp lake from the west; also about a mile northwest from Traverse City, in the bed and banks of a creek ; also on Petej* Stewart's land. Sec. 17 T. 29 K 10 W., on the Peninsula; also at Whitewater, Sec. 21 T. 28 K 10 W., on the land of A. T. Allen. At Northport, in the bed of the creek back of the Traverse Bay Hotel, is a mass of bedded 2:)eat containing fresh water shells, and, in places, becoming marly. In another situ- ation, and deprived of its shells, this deposit would pass for lignite; but in this situation, with springs oozing out of the banks, and fresh water shells so abundant, the deposit can scarcely be regarded as anything different from ordinary peat. From the observations made on the lignitic accumulations of the Grand Traverse region, I am led to think that the prin- • cipal de]50sits are not sedimentary accumulations formed in the bottom of the lake (and bay) near the shore ; nor masses of stranded dr.ft vegetation ; nor materials bedded in the Mod- ified Drift by either marine or lacustrine action at heights above or below the present water line ; nor do I think changes of level in the lake waters have had any connection with their occurrence above or below the present water level. They seem to be ancient peat beds formed ia situations kept moist, in some cases, by access of water from the lake, in others by the percolation of spring water from contiguous sand banks. They may hence occur at any elevation above the Avatcr level, and present exact adaj^tations to the inequalities of the subja- cent surface. The erosion of the lake and bay shore has caused these peaty areas to be invaded by the waves, Avhieh, while they could not, without unusual violence, rend to pieces the peaty matter bound together as it is by interlacing stems 69 and fibres, could nevertheless wash out the fine sand on which the peat bed rested, and cause it, by degrees, to settle down to the water level, and even beneath it. XI. ECONOMICAL IJVIPORTANCE OF THE VAKIOUS GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS. 1. Salt. — The Onondaga salt group, which underlies the entire region, is the source of supply of the gypsimi and brine of central New York. It furnishes the gypsum of the Grand River region of Canada West, and of Sandusky bay in Ohio. It is also known to contain a large supply of gypsum in this State at Little Pt. an Cheue, west of Mackinac. I have als shown that the salt wells of Port Austin and St. Clair, in this State, are su^^plied from this source; and have expressed the opinion that this group of rocks will be found equally produc- tive in other portions of the lower peninsula. The position of the Grand Traverse region is such that I should be led to hope for success in boriiig into this formation. The well authenti- cated existence of an ancient salt sprmg on the neck of land connecting Harbor (or Hog) island with the Peninsula, I should regard as a confirmation of this opinion, since, if a fissure ex- isted in the overlying rocks, the brine would tend to rise by ' hydrostatic pressure, as through an artesian boring. Deacon Dame, of Northport, one of the oldest residents of the region, has fui-nished me with detailed information, which seems to fully authenticate the current tradition relative to the former existence of this spring. Mr. H. G. Rothwell, of Detroit, likewise informs me that a salt spring exists on the soutluvest corner of Sec. 35 T. 26 N. 16 W., which is less than three miles from Frankfort, in Benzie county. Undoubtedly this spring is siapplied from the same source. Very great difiiculty exists in estimating the depth from the surface at which the formation would be struck. If an experi- ment were to be made at the head of the East or West bay — points where the basin would be found most depressed, and the brine, consequently, most concentrated — we might venture 60 to make tlie following approximate estimate of the thickness of the intervening formations : Drift Materials 120 feet Light and Black Shales 400 " Hamilton group 140 " Corniferous limestone 200 " Onondaga Salt gronp 50 " Total 910 " The light and black shales (Huron group) attain a thickness, ill the southern part of the St ite, of about 600 feet, but I be- lieve the indications do not justify so high an estimate for the Grand Traverse region. The Corniferous limestone is about 300 feet thick at Mackinac, but not over 100 feet thick in Monroe county. I think the question of salt would be suf- ficiently tested within 1000 feet. 2. Petroleum. — The Hamilton group is the formation in which most of the oil is obtained at Oil Springs, Petrolea and Bothwell in Canada West. It consists there, as here, of a series of limestones, shales and shaly limestones. The oil ac- cumulates in the loosely constituted shaly limestones; in the numerous small fissm-es of fissile clay shales ; in vertical fissures ^and irregular cavities in the massive limestones, and in the pores of a buffish, porous magnesian limestone at the bottom of the series. The deposits of oil possess no considerable lateral extent, since wells even upon the same acre of ground seldom interfere with each other. The oil also accumulates, some- times in enormous quantity, in a bed of gravel or sand re^iosing at the bottom of the Drift materials upon the top of the rock. This is a thick oil used for lubricating purposes. At Petrolea the black (or Gfinesee) shale is not found over- lying the rocks of the Hamilton group. At Oil Springs the thinning edge of this formation is encountered in about the middle of the productive area. This thickens toward the west, until, in some wells not over a mile distant, the formation has attained a thickness of 40 to 50 feet. At Bothwell the black shale occurs of considerable thickness. The same is also true of the undeveloped regions of Wyoming, Dawn and Chatham in tlie peninsula of Canada West. 61 There are belts within the G-rand Traverse region corres- ,pondiug in geological position with each of the localities jnst named ; and I believe there are good geological reasons for anticipating success in an attempt to obtain oil. The region from the head of Little Traverse bay to ISTorthport, and tlience to Leland, Glen Arbor and Frankfort, is situated like the region about Petrolea, except that the drift materials, inland from the lake shore, are accumulated in deeper masses. The best situ- ation for making experiments would be at points sufficiently covered to have prevented the evaporation ot the oil, but yet sufficiently depressed to avoid imnecessary boring through the overlying sands. The line which marks the western boundary of the Genesee shale — already indicated — marks out a belt of positions simi- lar to that of Oil Springs in Canada West ; while a strip of country a little further east would be found circumstanced similarly to the Bothwell oil region. It cannot be expected that oil will be found generally and indiscriminately distributed throughout this area, but I should be surprised if half a dozen imdertakings, judiciously located, should fail entirely of bringing the coveted Huid to light. Surface indications are quite common throughout the region, of which the following are a few examples. In a stream at Lindsley's house, at Sutton's Bay. Mr. de Belloy and I have demonstrated that this proceeds from a marsh half a tuile distant on the hill-side. Strong indications exist also on the farm next north of Lindsley's. On Carp lake, near the landing of Cornelius Jones, I saw a film of oil, and brought up bubbles of inflammable gas by stir- ring the bottom. On the east side of the lake, a little further down, I saw sim- ilar indications. I saw the same again near the head of the north arm of the lake. Again, on the back part of Buck- man's farm, and throughout that region, north of Leland, on low groimds. On the west side of Carp lake, near the head, on land of James Nolan, I noticed indications ; and also at numerous 62 points between Nolan's and Provemont. No smell was notice- able, and in many cases the oil was mixed with an iron film. Mr. McPherson, living on the east side of the bay, about four miles south of Antrim, assured me that he had detected a strong smell of kerosene in passing tlie outcrop of green shale in that vicinity. One of his boys asserted that he found the smell so strong, one day, that he hunted long for the fragments of the jug of kerosene which he was convinced had been bro- ken at the spot. Mr. de Belloy gives similar testimony to the occurrence of a strong smell in the same vicinity, at certain times. The same is also asserted by Mr. Blakcly, living near Torch lake. About two miles from Northport, on the road to New Mis- sion, I saw a fine film of oil on standing water. In the border of the swamp back of Deacon Dame's resi- dence at Nortliport, ai"e very characteristic indications. Gas also escapes at intervals in a spring near the house. In calm weather a copious escape of oil can be seen from Rose's dock. The oil rises and spreads in a fine film with dichroic refrac- tions on the surface of the water. Tlie same is seen again at tlie mouth of the creek near the dock. Similar phenomena are seen on Manseau's creek at Pishaw- bey-town. So says Mrs. Page. On the land of Rev. Mr. Smith at Northport, I saw abun- dant films of oil, with some iron. The same can be seen on standing water near the creek back of Traverse Bay Hotel. On the northeast shore of Leg lake, I saw several small oil springs, with much iron. On land of Rev. George Thompson at Leland, I saw slight petroleum indications near the house, and also about a cattle spring -A, quarter of a mile northwest of the liouse. Supposed oil indications occur on railroad section 3 T. 32 N. R. 7 W., about a <|uarter of a mile from the north side of Pine lake. In the low ground about the head of the West Arm of the bay, I noticed abundant films of oil on the surface of standing Avater. 63 The numerous instances in which the escape of oil and gas to the surface has been observed, tend to confirm very strongly the induction based on stratigraphical data, and afford full justification of attempts to reach, by boring, the reservoirs whence the oil escapes. H. Clays. — The Drift formation, besides supplying an ad- mirable quality of silicious sand for plasteruig, contains large deposites of pure clay for bricks and pottery. In some cases this clay is already mixed with a suflicient amount of sand for immediate use. Along the elevated beach north of Carp river, is an exposure of an enormous deposit of fine fawn-colored clay, quite free from pebbles of ever)- sort. It is compact and soniewhat fissile, but undoubtedly belongs to the drift forma- tion. The same deposit outcrops again at ISTorth Unity, at Sleeping Bear and at Empire Bluff. At either point a manu- facture of bricks could l)e established which would rival Milwaukie both in the cheapness of production and the fine (piality of the bricks. Beds of excellent clay occur at Frank- fort within the limits of the town plat. Clay of similar quality, but somewhat mixed with boulders, occurs on the bay shore south of Antrim. A bed of boulder clay abuts upon the bay at New Mission, and forms the basis of the promontory on which the Seminary stands. A short distance back of Fisher's house at Glen Arbor, a land slide has uncovered an excellent bed of pure clay. At Antrim a second beach, a few rods inland, is formed by a bank of pink- colored, boulder-bearing clay. It is a mistake to suppose the clay of the region is not adapted to brickmaking. No doubt limestone pebbles may become mixed with the clay employed, but a good article can be successfully selected. William Wilson informed me that he made 2,000 bricks from a bed of clay two miles below New Mission, and they proved unexcejitionable. The color was that of Milwaukie bricks. Of the whole quantity not one has bursted from the presence of limestone pebbles. At Elk Rap- ids 100,000 bricks of Milwaukie color were made, and all were good, except a few made from material taken near the surface of the bed. 64 XII. FARM CROPS. The descriptions which I have given of the nature of the soil and climate of the Grsnd Traverse region, will pre- jjare the reader for the statement which I now make, that the region is capable of producing any crop which flour- ishes in the northwestern States, as far south as the latitude of Cincinnati. In order to give definiteness to the testimony which I am about to produce, I shall furnish names, localities and figures. Where anything is given on the authority of others, the production of their names will render them respon- sible for the statements. 1. Wheat. — The staple crop of the region, at present, is winter wheat. The mildness of the autumn enables it to secure a good start, while the mantle of snow with which the country is covered during the winter, insures the crop against winter- killing. Very rarely I heard accounts of " smothering" in lim- ited localities. Mr. Hannah informs me that the average j^roduction of wheat about Traverse City is 25 to 30 bushels per acre. Morgan Bates, Esq., says the first crop of wheat pays for clear- ing the land. In 1864, he cleared 27 acres of heavily-timbered land, hiring all the labor. The clearing, fencing with tempo- rary fence, seed, plowing part, sowing, harvesting and thresh- ing, cost $892. The wheat raised was 500 bushels, which sold at Traverse City at |1.60 a bushel, amounting to $896. This yield is only 21-^ bushels per acre, but Mr. Bates states that an unusual amount was wasted by improper harvesting. The land is now worth $30 per acre. Rev. Merritt Bates published the following statement in 1863: Cost of clearing ten acres, fencing, seed, cultivation, $285. Product, exclusive of waste caused by threshing in the open air, 268 bushels, worth at the door $1.25 per bushel, $335 — ^besides straw worth $50. James Orr, one mile south of Antrim, raised winter wheat, a sample of which was stated by dealers at Battle Creek to be the finest known in the State. William Johnson, on the east side of Elk Lake, raised this year 30 bushels of winter wheat 65 to the acre. In the Monroe settlement, in Grand Traverse county, winter wheat averages 28 bushels to the acre. In 1863, William Monroe raised 30 bushels, and his brother Henry 38 bushels to the acre. 2. Corn. — The variety of corn most prevalent is the yellow eight-rowed corn. It has been demonstrated, however, that dent and King Philip corn and other varieties, will ripen with certainty. I saw Mr. de Belloy and others husking corn fully ripe in the middle and latter part of September, and I was assured that the crop was sufficiently ripe quite early in Sep- tember. I saw fields of corn fully ripe about the same time, near the north end of Carp lake, and also on the west side, toward the head of the lake. It was growing thriftily on the steepest hill-sides, in fields which, in some cases, had not been plowed. I saw dent corn fully matured and twelve feet high on the land of Stejjhen Perkins, near Long lake. At Leland, I saw ears of King Philip corn, raised by H. S. Buckman, which were 10|- and 11 inches long, well filled out and matured. I saw similar ears at Traverse City, — also luxuriant specimens of Ohio dent corn. Enoch Wood, four miles south of Elk Rapids, brought to market two loads of dent corn equal to any produced further south. Wm. Monroe informed me that he raises good crops of corn — some of which is dent corn. Dent corn was raised this year by E. P. Ladd, at Old Mission. Corn is not so sure a crop at Pine river. 3. Oats. — On the west side of Carp lake, I saw as good crojjs of oats as ever in my life. Mr. Hannah states that oats always bring an excellent crop. I saw in tlie office of Mr. Bates, at Traverse City, a bunch of oats 7 feet and 9 inches high, raised on land of John Cornell, 20 miles south on the Ne- waygo state road. The w^hole field is said to have been extra- ordinary, though I was assured that many farmers have raised fields of oats six feet high. Mr. Monroe informed me that he raises 50 bvishels of oats to the acre. 4. Buckwheat. — As might be expected, buckwheat also flourishes luxuriantly. I never saw better fields than on the west side of Carp lake. The crop is generally said to flourish well, but is not perhaps extensively introduced. 5 5. Potatoes. — The finest potatoes of the country are pro- duced in this region. The soil and climate seem to be admir- ably adapted to the crop. Thousands of barrels are shi])ped to Chicago annually. They often pass in the market for Mack- inac potatoes, as that region had a reputation established many years ago. The potato grows without cultivation in the Grand Traverse region — the entire crop being often left in the ground till spring, and scattered tubers taking root in fields cultivated for other crops. Mr. Fisher, of Glen Arbor, had potatoes grow- ino- in a field where they were planted six years ago. The potato grows large and smooth and is uniformly healthy. I saw at Traverse City, a Carter potato, raised four miles west of that place, on land of Rev. Merritt Bates, and measuring 8^ inches in length and 9 inches in circumference. In Campbell's store, at Northport, I saw three Peach-blow potatoes, weighing respectively 19|-, 20 and 26 ounces. Deacon Dame informed me that he had raised 300 bushels of potatoes to the acre. He also says that a single hill sometimes yields considerably over a peck, and that whole fields wiU average a bushel to every eleven hills. This was done on land of Mrs. Daniel Knox, two miles west of Northport. Mrs. Page, of Pishaw- bey-town, says she raised from one hill a half bushel even fuU of Lady-finger potatoes. It was only one hill of a patch. Mr. J. W. Washburne says he raised on one stalk of Peach-blow potatoes, over a half peck — all large ones. This was in a half acre lot, the soil of which had been cultivated several years. W. W. McClellan, of Northport, showed me a potato of Clin- ton variety, raised on land of James Martin, 2| miles north of there, which measured nine and seven-eighths inches in length and weighed 33^ ounces. Mr. Tilley, at Leland, showed me two potatoes of the Cazenovia variety weighing 18| and 20^ ounces respectively, ten days after being placed in a dry at- mosphere. They were raised two miles south of Leland. Mr. Gerard Verfurth exhibited a potato of the same variety, raised in the village, which weighed 27 ounces. I saw potatoes of the California variety, raised by Rev. Mr. Smith, of Northj^ort, measuring 8^ inches in length, and a black Meshannock 8f inches long. 67 6. Hat. — Timothy hay proves a successful crop. Mr. Bates, of Traverse City, has 33 acres seeded, which he calculates will pay him the interest on |3,000. If it brings only one ton to the acre, he will receive a profit of $9 per ton, or $307 on the whole, which is ten per cent, on |3,070, or about |93 per acre. Rial Johnson, four miles south of Elk Rapids, has one of the oldest farms in the coimtry, and raises superior Timothy hay. Mr. E. Pulcifer, south of Elk Rapids, got 19 loads of red clo- ver hay from three acres planted to an orchard. He keeps nine cows, and makes butter and cheese for the market. He proposes to enlarge his dairy. I saw first rate Timothy hay in the fine, capacious barns of William Monroe, in Grand Trav- erse county. 7. Other Crops. — Tm-nips grow with the utmost luxuriance, as I have observed on the west side of Carp lake, at various places about Traverse City, and along the road thence to Glen Arbor. Mr. Sprague, near Leg lake, in Leelanaw county, directed my attention to a fine field of turnips, and assured me that he once raised a flat turnip which weighed 17 pounds (!) Carrots grow well. Mr. Stewart, on the Peninsula, showed me a bed of carrots which were from two to three inches in diameter, the seed of which was planted Ji^ly 1st. He showed me parsnips of a still larger size. I saw fine carrots back of Glen Arbor. Tomatoes ripen well. I met with them at va- rious points. Mrs. Joseph Batey raised three tomatoes in the south part of Traverse township, which weighed 40 ounces each. Mrs. Dixon informed me that tomatoes do not mature well at Pine river. I saw an excellent crop of white beans at Rial Johnson's ; and also large, plump marrowfat peas. XIII. FRUITS. As a fruit-growing region, it is doubtful whether any other part of the United States will compete with this. Apple trees were planted on the first settlement of the county, and have always grown well and borne luxuriantly. The characteristics of the trees and fruit are healthfulness, luxuriance and large size. Rev. Mr. Smith, of Northport, has a young orchard in which I saw various familiar varieties in a greater degree of 68 perfection than in any other part of the country. The average size of the Rhode Island Greenings was eleven inches in cir- cumference — weighmg eleven ounces. Seedling apple trees were loaded with fine winter fruit. Fine young orchards are coming into bearing on all parts of the Peninsula, and thi'ough- out the country south and southeast of Elk Rapids. Mr. Han- nali, at Traverse City, has planted an orchard of about forty acres containing 1,000 trees. At New Mission, I witnessed the most beautiful exhibition of apples that ever met my eyes. An orchard on the seminary grounds, about 14 years old, was completely loaded with large, fair, richly-colored fruit of old and new varieties. It was a marvel of luxuriance and beauty. I saw whole trees borne down with apples from four to four and a half inches in diameter, and weighing from 14 to 18 ounces. These trees were planted and reared by Rev. Peter Dougherty, the intelligent and useful superintendent of the mission. I saw young apj^le trees flourishing luxiu-iantly in the ueio-hborhood of Glen Arbor, and in nearly all other parts of the region. It was formerly supposed that the climate was unsuited to peaches, but different persons having from time to time planted a few peach stones, it was ultimately proven that the peach flourishes in perfection. At Leland, I saw trees laden with ripe fruit in September. At New Mission, the peaches which I saw were as great a marvel as the apples. Some measured eio"ht and nine inches in circumference. The seedling fruit was so abundant that no attempt was made to gather it. Thomas Tyre, on the Peninsula, brought to market this year 75 to 100 bushels of peaches. Rial Johnson, on Elk lake, raised 200 bushels from a small orchard, the seeds of which were planted ten years ago. Rev. Mr. Smith, of Northport, succeeds with peaches. Mr. Fisher treated me with peaches raised at Glen Arbor. I saw thrifty trees growing on the farms back of Glen lake. Mr. Ahnon Young, on the south side of Round lake, raised superb peaches ; also Mi*. Amos Wood, two miles from Elk Rapids. Mr. Wood's trees have been bearing regularly for six or seven years. Mr. E. Pulci- fer near Whitewater creek, raised 20 bushels of peaches. I 69 was informed that peach trees come into bearing in four years from the seed. I heard of only one instance of complaint of mnter-killing of peach trees, and that was at Monroe's, 12 miles south of Traverse City and 20 miles from lake Michigan, Nectarines are raised by Judge Fowler, at Mapleton, on the Peninsula, and probably at other places. Plums produce pro- fusely, and are exempt from all insect ravages. I measured a shoot of this year's growth five feet long on a plum tree in Mr. Fisher's yard at Glen Arbor. Mr. L. R. Smith, at Elk Rapids, raised, one stem of Early Orleans variety which bore 22 plums, averaging four inches in circumference. He also raises the Washington plum. Rial Johnson raised five bushels of plums. The diiferent varieties of cherries thrive equally well. I saw flourishing trees on Mr. Smith's place, at Northport; also at Glen Arbor. Mr. Wm. J. Bland, at Elk Rapids, has a Bigar- reau cherry tree that has borne regularly for four years. I saw thrifty trees on the place of E. Pulcifer. Pears thrive wherever they have been tested. Mr. Smith's soil at Noi'thport is probably peculiarly adapted to pears, and they flourish very finely. They do about equally well at New Mission. I saw good trees also at Glen Arbor, and in the Whitewater region. Mr. Smith also succeeds with quinces. Grapes thrive admirably throughout the region — though wherever I saw them they were retarded in development by lack of pruning, by excessive crops, and by too much shade. I saw grapes bearing well at Leland. At New Mission, I saw Isabella and Catawba grapes ripened on neglected vines in a situation badly exposed to the sun. Mr. Smith's vines were literally borne down with their burden of ripe and unripe fruit in the latter part of October. L. A, Thayer, on the east side of Torch lake, raised superb Concord grapes. His vines have been bearing four years. Isabellas ripen early in SeiDtember. Judge Fowler, at Mapleton, has matured Isabella grapes for four or five years past. This region is the native home of the red currant, the red raspberry, and the blackberry. Currants are unsurj^assed. Raspberries bear with the utmost luxuriance, either in the cul- tivated or uncultivated state. I saw ripe raspberries in Octo- 10 ber, on the Peninsula, growing on canes of the present year's production. The same canes bore green fruit and flowers. This phenomenon is of frequent occurrence. Mr. Tilley, of Leland, informed me that he had, on the last of October, ripe black-cap raspberries growing in his garden, on this year's canes. Strawberries flourish as well as in any part of the world. Mr. Hannah, of Traverse City, informed me that he raised this year 25 bushels from a piece of grovtnd 50 by 75 feet. Mr. Stewart, on the Peninsula, assured me that he could pick strawberries in his fields every day from the first week in June till the approach of snow. Few situations suitable for cranberries exist, but Mr. Fisher informed me that a marsh along Crystal creek produces them at the rate of 300 bushels to the acre, and he proposes to avail himself of this source of revenue. The secret of the wonderful adaptation of this region to the production of fruit, is found in the characteristics of the soil and climate heretofore described. It is likely the sandy plains to the south of the East and West Arms of the bay will be found well adapted to the raising of peaches. The region best protected from danger of winter-killing and late spring frosts, lies between the bay and the lake, in Leelanaw county ; and yet actual results demonstrate that the peach flourishes, hith- erto without drawback, several miles east and south of the bay. The recent discovery of the admirable adaptation of this region to the purpose of fruit growing, has caused very gene- ral attention to be directed to the subject. Almost every farmer is enlarging his plantations. When at Traverse City, on the 8th of November, I witnessed the arrival of 32 cases of fruit trees from the nursery of T. D. Ramsdell, of Adrian. Mr. Mace Tisdale, who had made contracts for this large sup- IDly, informed me that he was introducing |4,100 worth of fruit trees this fall. XIV. THE INDUSTRIES OF THE PEOPLE. The leading occupation of the inhabitants of this region must necessarily be the cultivation of the soil. E\idcntly, 71 however, in a country so densely wooded, the duty which first urges itself upon the attention of the new settler, is to eifect a clearing. As pioneers generally desire to realize as speedily as possible the avails of their labor, the chopping and sale of "coi'd wood" has unavoidably engaged a large share of atten- tion ; and the shipment of cord wood to Chicago, and its sup- l^ly to propellers running on the lakes, have become an impor- tant branch of business. In November last, the cost of chopping a cord of propeller wood was $1.25, and a cord of shipping wood $1.50. The difierence is caused by the greater care requisite in the prejDaration of a cord which will pass the market regulations in Chicago. Propeller wood was selling on the dock at $3.00 to $4.00 a cord. Shipping wood on the beach was selling for $3.00 a cord; on the dock for $4.00. Freights to Chicago Avere exorbitantly high ; but the state of things was evidently exceptional and temporary. Even at the existing charges for freight, the price in Chicago left a fair margin for profit to the shippei\ Thousands of cords of bee oh and maple wood, in the haste to efifect a clearing, are simply chopped and burned on the ground. It is obvious that two or three potash establishments would save an enormous waste of ashes, and furnish a desira- ble convenience lor the pioneer. I am not aware that the manufacture of potashes is carried on at the present time in any part of the region. It was suggested to me that a man prepai'ed to buy ashes or " black salts," and to furnish in ex- change such commodities as farmers generally need, would succeed in doing a profitable business. He should keep potash kettles for sale to farmers residing at distances too great to justify the transportation of the ashes. These kettles would be used in the manufacture of "black salts" on the ground, thus materially reducing the bulk of the article to be trans- ported to the ashery. It is estimated that every ao'e furnishes from 350 to 500 bushels of ashes. Another use to which the forest may be immediately con- verted is the raamifacture of maple sugar. This branch of in- dustry is mostly left to the unskillful and untidy management of the Indians. It is estimated that one man can manufacture ^2 from 400 to 600 pounds of maple sugax' in a season. This, at a season of the year when no other occupation than wood-chop- ping is practicable is a source of revenue which the pioneer ought not to neglect. The manufactui-e of lumber is carried on only at two or three points, and though over 20 millions of feet are annually produced, it can scarcely be r'?garded as an occupation in which the people generally are concerned. The manufacture of bricks and pottery, though not yet es- tablished, is destined to become an important branch of busi- ness both for home supply and for exportation. The manufacture of wooden ware of all descriptions might be successfully carried on where the finest qualities of maple, beech, wliite and black ash and white pine are so readily ac- cessible on the immediate shore of navigable waters. Sagacious business men have, also, long since suggested the propriety of the erection of furnaces at Northport, Frankfort and other points, for the purpose of smelting the ores of iron from the upper penmsula. The ores of Marquette can now be delivered by railroad at Escanaba, which is only 85 miles by water from Frankfort, and about the same distance from North- port ; while the almost inexhaustible forests of hard timber in the Grand Traverse region render it the most desirable portion of the State for the economical ojieration of blast furnaces. XV. SETTLEMENTS. Charlevoix, commonly known as Pine River, though scarce- ly within the limits of the Grand Traverse region, is destined to become an important point. It is a new settlement, having a substantial dock, a store and several private dwellings. It is claimed that eleven propellers have entered into arrangements for " wooding" at the dock next season. The dock and fifteen acres of land along the beach are owned by the New York Central Propeller Company. The river has four feet of fall at this place. Antrim City has just been founded by Mr. L. H. Pearl, w^ho has erected a substantial dock and engaged extensively in the sale of cord and propeller wood. The country back of Antrim 73 is becoming rapidly settled, and must soon demand the conve- niences of a store and hotel. Eastj)ort is just founded by an enterprising gentleman of Detroit. BroA^Tistown is at present a mere fishing station. Elk Rapids is by far the most important point on the eas side of the bay. It was founded by Messrs Dexter and Noble, who have made substantial and valuable improvements — erect- ing a first (lass dock, saAV-mill and boarding-house, and open- ing a store, at which the sun-ounding country is supplied with all classes of goods at reasonable rates. Two hundred barrels of flour were made here in 1864. The Elk Rapids Eagle is pub- lished weeekly by E. S. Sprague, Esq. An appropriation of $3,000 has been made toward building a court-house and jail. Petobego is the name applied to the settlement around Pe- tobego lake. Whitewater Post-ofiice is located at the mouth of White- water creek. Hoxie and Havilet have a dock at the southeast angle of the East bay. New Sweden is a settlement, now nearly abandoned, whch clustered around the saw-mill at the head of the East bay. Mapleton Post-office is located on Sec. 27 T. 29 N. 10 W. on the Peninsula. Old Mission (Grand Traverse Post-offlce) is situated near the point of the Peninsula, on the east side, and was the first spot occupied by the white man. Bower's Harbor, or Haight's, is a wood dock and point of shipment, near the head of the harbor. Traverse City is the largest and most flourishing settlement in the region. It is situated at the head of the West Ai-m. It was founded by Messrs. Hannah, Lay & Co., who have erected very extensive and substantial docks for lumber and shipment, and have opened a wholesale and retail store, at which anything may be purchased, from a paper of pins to a steam engine. The saw-mill of this company is one of the largest and best equipped in the State. The j^lace contains also a steam flour- ing mill which produced 500 bai-rels of flour in 1804, two good 74 hotels, one or two other stores, a school-house, blacksmith shojjs, shoe shops, a photographic establishment, and other places of business, Tlie United States Land Office is kept at this place. The weekly Traverse City Herald is edited and published by Morgan Bates, Esq. The population of the place is perhaps one thousand. Norris' is on Sec. 28 T. 28 K 11 W. Here is a dock and a saw-mill. At Lee's Point is a landing dock detached from the shore. Sutton's Bay is a small village and post-office, with a detach- ed dock for shipi^ing purposes. Pishawbey-town is an Indian settlement and Catholic mission. New Mission (Omenia Post-office) is a mission sustained by the Presbyterian Board. A seminary stands here, taught by the intelligent daughters of Rev. Peter Dougherty, in charge of the mission. Northport is a port of entry, and one of the oldest settle- ments on the bay. It was founded by Deacon Dame, who re- moved there from Old Mission. It has a population of six or eight hundred. It is furnished with one good hotel, and seve- ral stores. The harbor is a favorite place of refuge for ves- sels navigating the lakes ; and the propellers have been very generally in the habit of wooding there — the arrivals amounting, as I am informed, to 400 a year. Northport has two good docks — Campbell's and Rose's. At the bight of the bay, two miles distant, is another dock, belonging to Burbeck and White. Leland is a new settlement, at the mouth of Carp river. It is supplied with a saw-mill, a hotel, a boarding-nouse and store. Tbe place was founded by Fayette and Thies, who own one of the two good docks with which the port is provided. One thousand barrels of flour were manufactured here in 1864 Thomas Kelterhouse has constructed a dock, and commenced a settlement four miles north of Glen Arbor. Glen Arbor was settled by John E. Fisher, six years ago. A good dock exists at this poi't, and Crystal creek affords water- power for a saw-mill and flouring-mill. Another dock has been built on the south side of the harbor. 75 On the iiortli side of Empire bluff George Ayleswortli is con- structing a new dock. Frankfort on the lake is a new settlement. The improvements in the harbor have been already described. The town site is beautifully located on a gentle southward slope, rising from an elevation of 10 feet above the lake to an altitude of about 200 feet in the back part of the town. Benzonia is a new and enterprising settlement, founded by a Christian colony from Ohio. From a circular issued in 1864, 1 learn that the place has been selected with great care, as the seat of a Christian community and an institution of learning. One fourth of the entire amount of land purchased is conse- crated to the endowment of the college. The church organi- zation is Congregational in form. The sale of ardent spirits and tobacco, except as medicines, is prohibited in the vicinity of the college. The land is selling at prices ranging from three to ten dollars an acre — one-fourth of the profits going to the college. The secretary of the colony is Rev. C. E. Bailey, Benzonia, Benzie county. The president of the college is Rev. J. B. Walker, D.D. The Carter settlement, in the south part of Leelanaw county, is a neighborhood on the road from Traverse City to Glen Arbor. The Monroe settlement is similarly located on the road from Traverse City to Newaygo. Provement is a settlement founded by Mr. A. de Belloy on the narrows of Carp lake. The population of the Grand Traverse region, according to the State census of 1864, was as follows : Antrim county, 382 ; Grand Traverse county, 2,017 ; Kalkasca, 9; Benzie, 500 ; Leelanaw, 2,389. Total, 5,297. Within the past year this total has probably increased to 7,000, or over. The population of the township of Peninsula, by the same census, was only 479. It is now thought to be 1,000. Reliable judges estimate the accessions to Antrim county during the past year at not less than one thousand souls. 76 XVI. HIGHWAYS. The propeller Alleghany, belonging to Hannah, Lay & Co., makes a weekly trip between Chicago and Traverse City, dur- ing the season of navigation, stopping at Northport. The lake proj^ellers stopping at Northport afford communication be- tween that place and other lake ports three or four times a week, on an average. Other means of communication, by propellers, are had from Pine river, Leland and Glen Arbor. Messrs. Hannah, Lay & Co. have placed a small propeller — the Sunnyside — on the bay, which, during the season of navi- gation, makes the round trip daily to all the more important settlements on the bay, and forms a ready, agreeable and most invaluable means of communication from point to point. Her trips have extended, twice a week, as far as Pine river. Be- sides these means of conununication, small sail boats are always at hand to convey the traveler to his destination, in default of other means of conveyance. Carp lake, besides small boats, is provided with two tugs, which make frequent trips to different points along the lake. The common roads are of course new, and, except in the oldest sections, more or less imperfect. The beach forms a useful thoroughfare in summer, and the ice in winter. A sys- tem of State roads, however, has been put in j^rocess of con- struction, which is destined to prove an important instrumen- tality in developing the countiy. These are : 1. " The Allegan, Muskegon and Traverse Bay State Road," running from Allegan by Holland and Ferrysburg to Muske- gon, thence by Pentwater, Manistee and Benzonia to Traverse City. (Act approved 12th Feb., 1859). 2. " The Newaygo and Northport State Road," running from Newaygo north by the Manistee crossing and the Monroe settlement to Traverse City ; thence along the west shore of the bay to NorthjDort. (Act approved 12th Feb., 1859). 3. " The Emmet and Grand Traverse State Road," running from Traverse City by Elk Rapids, Antrim, Pine River and Little Traverse to Mackinac. (Act approved 15th March, 1861), 11 These roads are all in process of construction. The last has been completed to Elk Rapids. The second is open to the Manistee river. The first is in use from Traverse City to Grand Haven. The latter road fm*nishes the only outlet to the region during the winter months. A stage, conveying passengers, freight and the United States mail runs regularly between Traverse City and Muskegon. A weekly stage runs between Traverse City and Elk Rapids. Railroad communication with the southern portion of the State is much needed. Land gi-ants were made, about ten years since, to three different companies, who undertook to open com- munication between the northern and southern portions of the State ; but the difficulties of prosecuting such enterprises through an unsettled region, in connexion with the more recent distubance of the business relations of the country by the pro- secution of a great civil war have prevented any of these roads from penetrating very far toward their northern termini. The roads referred to are as follws : 1. The Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad, running from Fort Wayne, Indiana, through the western part of the State by Grand Rapids and Little Traverse bay, and terminating at the straits of Mackinac. This road runs about 21 miles east of Traverse City, and 14 from Elk Rapids. 2. The Amboy, Lansing and Traverse Bay Railroad, begin- ning at Amboy, near the southern line of the State, and running by way of Lansing and Saginaw to Little Traverse bay. 8.. The Flint and Pere Marquette Railway, beginning at Flint and running by way of East Saginaw to lake Michigan, at the mouth of Pere Marquette river — a point almost directly opposite Cheboygan, in Wisconsin. The progress made in the construction of these roads is as follows : ' Tlie Grand Raj^ids and Indiana' Road has been graded along some portions of its line, and it is promised that 20 miles will be soon completed from Grand Rapids northward. The Am- boy, Lansing and Traverse Bay Railroad has been bailt a dis- tance of 23 miles, from Lansing to Owosso. 78 The Flint and Pere Marquette road is completed from Flint to East Saginaw, 34 miles. A road midcr a distinct incorpo- ration has been constructed from Flint to Holly, connecting the Flint and Pere Marquette with the Detroit and Milwaukie Railway at Holly, thus forming a very important line of com- munication from Detroit to Saginaw. It is said to be the in- tention of the Flint and Pere Marquette Company to extend their road beyond Saginaw through Midland City, 27 miles, during the coming year. This will carry communication well toward the Grand Traverse region, which is but 125 miles dis- tant. It has been very properly suggested that the western termi- nus of the Flint and Pere Marquette Railway ought to be changed to some point within the Grand Traverse region — as Frankfort or Traverse City. This, besides furnishing an outlet to the richest portion of the lower peninsula, would be in a direct line toward Escanaba, at the entrance of Little Bay de Noquet, from which railroad communication already exists to Marquette on Lake Superior. The distance from Escanaba is about 85 miles to Frankfort, and the same distance to North- jDort. By this connexion the Grand Traverse region would be accomodated, and the southern portion of the State would be furnished with a pleasant and expeditious summer route to Lake Superior. The practicability and eminent utility of the communication indicated ought to commend it to the attention of the business interests of the State and country. XVII. CONCLUSION. The developement of Leelanaw county has been very materi- ally retarded by an extensive Indian Reservation lying in the midst of an active white population. This reservation was made a few months after the first settlement of Northport. It extended from the village of Northport south to township 28, and embraced the entire county as far west as range 13 Avest, leaving only the small triangle north of Northport as the sus- taining back country for that village. Accordingly, though founded imder the most promising auspices, a rej^ressive — per- 79 haps we should say an oi^pressive — public act has deferred for ten years the prosperity of this important point. The term of reservation expires this year, audit is now understood that the land will be speedily brought into market. Mr, Smith, the In- dian Agent, informed me that there were this year only VOO In- dians to receive their annual payment of $4 each. This payment, as I had opjiortunity to observe, is at once transferred to the posession of the merchants and traffickers of Northport in ex- change for clothing and provisions — a slight offset to the injuries sustained from the reservation. On the reservation at Little Traverse are 1,300 Indians. A more general and even more serious obstacle to the devel- opment of the region is the withdrawal from market of the odd sections reserved for the construction of the Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad. I found the complaints on this subject universal and emphatic. The reservations for this road cover more than one half of Grand Traverse county, and the entire region on the east side of the bay. It is but justice to the popu- lation already engaged in the development of the country, that the injuries sustained from this source should be discontinued. It may be that the only method of constructing railroads through a new country is by means of land grants ; but it is obvious that in this case, the grants have not secured the end proposed, while they have proved of incalculable injury to the region in which they are located. Any continuance of these grants, and any new grants proposed to be made, should be placed under more rigorous stipulations than heretofore, with a view to securing to the regions incommoded by them a more prompt release from the injuries inflicted. The congressional grant to the Grand Rapids and Indiana and other land grant railroads in the State, expires by limitation on the 3rd. of June, 1866.* The Homestead Act in its practical workings has also re- tired from occupation many thousands of acres of valuable laud. Large numbers of persons, having entered their "homesteads," * For the legislation respecting the Grand Rapids aud Indiana Rail- road see Acts of Congress approved od .June, 1856, and 7th June, 1864 ; and State laws approved severally 14th Feb., 1857, 3d Feb., 1858, 14th Feb., 1859, 15th Feb., 1859, 12th Feb., 1861, 11th March, 1861, 15th March, 1861, 15th Jan., 1862, 2d Feb., 1865, 10th March, 1865. 80 have failed to comply with the law requu-ing actual residence ; aiid they consequently remain unimproved and retired from the market, or the prescribed means must he resorted to for bring- ing them again into market. These means, with a view to the ample protection of the first claimant, have been made cii'cui- tous, slow and tedious. In consequence, men undertake, only in urgent cases, to secure titles to abandoned homesteads ; and such lands are liable to remain a long time without improvement. At the present time, most of the land lying near navigable Avater has been taken up. Receding from the shore, private claims become less and less frequent, and disappear, on the east side of Grand Traverse bay, at the distance of seven or eight miles back. InLeelanaw county we find them distributed from shore to shore, with many unoccupied lands interspersed. The lands belonging to the general government are the even sections within the limits of the railroad grants, except so far as taken up by settlers. After the 3d of Jime next, the odd sections revert to the government, except in case of new legis- lation perpetuating the grants. The State swamp lands within the limits of this region are scarcely Avorthy of mention. Those formerly held as such must be nearly exhausted in the construction of the State roads. The reservations for the Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad are the odd sections where not previously occiipied or reserved, to the distance of " six sections in width on each side" of the road, and, where previously occupied or reserved, the odd sec- tions beyond these limits, to any distance Avithin 15 miles. The maps of the company represent their land grant as extending about 15 miles, throughout the entire region. This extension uses up the unsold odd sections nearly as far Avest as Traverse City and throughout Kalkasca and Antrim counties. There is no Indian reservation Avithiu the region under con- sideration, except the one already referred to ; and its limits have been hidicated. Indians are seldom seen in any other ])ortion of the region. Notwithstanding the serious draAvbacks to the development of this region, growing out of its remote situation, the erroneous ideas of i.ts climate and soil, and the injustice Avhich it has siif- 81 fered from public legislation, it has, during the past year or two, undergone a more rapid improvement than any other portion of the State. There have been entered at the Register's office in Traverse City, since January 1st, 1863, 1,422 homesteads of 160 acres each, making a total of 227,520 acres. In the same time there have been 467 cash purchases, estimated at 37,360 acres. The lands located with Military Land Wsrrants and Agricultural College Scrip are at least double the cash pur- chases, or about 74,720 acres, making a gi-and total of 339,600 acres. This land district extends from the south line of Man- istee county to the straits of Mackinac, and from K. 3 W. to lake Michigan. Most of the settlement, however, is around Grand Traverse bay, from R. 8 W. to R. 15 W., aiid from T. 21 N. to T. 32 N. These statements were given me by the Re- gister late in October. The entries at the office during No- vember were 12,450 acres; of which 1,091 acres were pur- chased for cash, and 1,240 were located with warrants. Beyond all controversy, the Grand Traverse region otters stronger attractions to capital and settlement than any other portion of the State or of the entire northwest. Even the mighty forest which has to be felled before the farmer can avail himself of the soil, is probably less of a detriment than an ad- vantage. Besides insuring him an inexhaustible supply ot fuel, for the labor of cutting ; besides furnishing him with a mer- chantable commodity in the form of cord-wood, upon which he can realize for each day's work ; besides protecting him and his stock and crops from the severity of the wintry blast, the forest itself is a source of food to horses and cattle, both in sunmier and winter. It is no uncommon occurrence, as I saw in a multitude of cases, for a settler to make his appearance late in the autumn, with little means but his muscle, an axe, a yoke of oxen and a cow. He selects a spot for his dwelling, and while he fells the trees to supply the logs for his cabin, his cow and oxen support themselves by browsing, and the milk furnished by the cow goes far toward the supjiort of his family. Having erected his cabin, he spends his winter in chopping ; and, in the mean time, his stock fatten themselves by browsing on the fallen timber, so that they actually enter the 82 spring in better flesh than they did the autumn. I had accounts of this kind from various sources. Mr. Fisher, of Glen Arbor, told me of a pony that escaped from his owner, and subsisted in the forest seven years before he was caught. A more thorough system of farming is needed, which will be secured when more capital can be applied to the business. A more varied industry is needed ; and this also will be intro- duced as wealth increases and the advantages of the region become known. Religious and educational accommodations have kept pace with the development of the region. Traverse City, Elk Rap- ids, Northport and Benzonia have preaching every Sabbath — many of the settlements fuither back, once in two or four weeks. At Traverse City and Northport the Congregationalists and Methodists both have organizations. There are also church organizations at Monroe settlement, at Glen Arbor, at White- water, at Old Mission, at New Mission and some other points. Schools are maintained within reach of every neighborhood. There are at least six school houses in the township of Traverse. At Benzonia is Grand Traverse college and pre- paratory school. Access to the Grand Traverse region is had by j^ropellers from any of the lake ports. The numerous propellers all stop somewhere within the limits of the region ; and, by inquiry, it can be ascertained at what point any particular propeller is in the habit of stopping. Those wishing to reach the bay had better not take passage for Glen Arbor or Carp river [Leland,] and those wishing to reach the latter places had better not take passage to the bay. Passengers are landed at Northport two or three times a week; and from there they can proceed on the Sunnyside to any other point on the bay. The Alle- ghany runs once a week directly from Chicago to Northport and Traverse City. Visitors are caiitioned against allowing steamboat captains to persuade them to be landed on the Manitou islands — a fre- quent wooding place — since great diflSculty is often experi- enced in getting from there to the main land. Eruatum. — Page 3'-J, foot note, lor " Lenawee " read " Leelanaw," APPENDIX TO A REPORT ON THE GRAND TRAVERSE REGION. By a. WINCHELL. Paleontological investigations made since tlie printing of the body of this Report, enable me to present a more satisfac- tory account of the Hamilton group of Little Traverse bay than has hitherto been done. This region possesses consid- erable geological interest, in consequence of being removed at least 250 miles in a straight line from the nearest Hamilton rocks, (at Widder, C W.,) which have heretofore received the attention of paleontologists. To co-ordinate the various outcrops along the shore ' of the bay and lake, as far as the black shale beds, is a problem of no little difficulty, since the shore-line runs nearly in the strike of the strata, and the latter present numerous irregular undula- tions, and undergo, moreover, considerable lithological changes in short distances. By fixing upon certain obvious paleonto- logical horizons, however, and parallelizing strata which are obviously synchronous, all the various localities and strata fall by degrees into their proper places. 7 84 In default of a diagram, I have arranged the foUowhig table to exhibit to the eye the stratigraphical relations of the several localities. The term " Tropidoleptus Beds " is changed to "Bryozoa Beds,'' since the supposed Tropidoleptus proves to be a Strophodonta. A " Pleurotomaria Bed," well marked, is also recognized at the bottom of the series. The letters cor- respond with those in the sections given in the body of the Report- The full-tace capitals indicate the strata most readily identifiable. STRATIGKAPHICAL KELATIONS OF THE LOCALITIES. 855 856 857 858 861 863 863 865 880 881 884 Chert Beds E D c B A Buff Magnesian Beds. . . . . . E C Acervularia Beda. E D G B A D C B A c B A B A B A D c A O Bryozoa Beds B A B A Stromatopora Beds D c Pleurotomaria Bed. B c B A B A The table which follows embraces a list of all the fossils thus far collected, including the collections of my recent sur- vey and those heretofore made by State authority. The five succeeding columns of the table show the vertical distribution of the species through the beds. 85 DISTRIBUTION OF THE SPECIES. CATALOGUE. 1 1 1 1 t 1 i 1 s •2 1 Fistulipora labiosa Win * * * * * * * * * * » * * * * * * * * 9 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * « « * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * « « * * * * * Saffordi Wiri Callopora punctillata Win Favosites Alpenensis Win " nitella Wi7i " dumosa Win Lunatipora Michiganensis Win Alveolites strigillata Win " megastoma Win " n. sp ? Chaetetes Hamiltonensis Win " microscopica Win Syringopora fenestrata Win " alectiformis Win " crassata Win Zaphrentis Traversenis Win " cystica Win Cyathophyllum simplex ? Hall " panicum Win " ? partitum Win. . . . sp? Heliophyllum Halli E. & H. " tenuiseptatnm Bill... Acervularia Davidson! E. & U Phillipsastraea Verneuili E. & H... . Cystiphyllum Americanum E. db H. Stromatopora monticulifera Win " pustulifera Win '' nux Win « " caespitosa Win Aulopora serpuloides Win " aperta Win " conferta Win " cyclopora Win Tentaculites subtilis Win Fenestella eximia Win " filitexta Win Stictopora sulcata Win Crania radicans Win " crenistria Hnll " ( Pseudocrania) anomala Win Chonetes Emnietensis Win Strophodonta inaequistriata Con " subdemissa Hall " orratica Win. (3 Vars.) " imitata Win " &va^\& {Hall) BiU " cincta Win 80 msTRiButiON OF THE SPECIES. — Continued. CATALOGUE. f^ ^ K) cq fiq Strophodonta nacrea HaU Cyrtia Hamiltonensis Hall Spirifera Clintoni Hall " subattenata HnU " bidorsalis Win " mucrouata Con. , " pennata (Owen) HaU. . . . " consors Win *' filitexta Wi7i Martinia athyroides Win Spirigera concentrica Bronn " eborea Win Merista lens Win Trematospira ? liniuscula Win. . . . Atrypa reticularis Dal Pentamerus occidentalis HaU " intralineatus Win. . . . Leiorhynclius sesquiplicatus Win. Terebratula Linklaeni HaU " Traversensis Win .... Pterinea decussata HaU sp Aviculopecten intercostalis Win. . Sanguinolites (Grammy sia ?) sulcifer Win Lucina ? Hamiltonensis Win Conocardium Emmetense Win. . . . " bifarium Win Edmondia ? ledoides Win " mactroides Win Nuculites oblonga ? HaU Pleurotomaria mucro Win " cavumbilicata Win. " Emmetensis Win. . " parvispira Win.... Orthoceras exile ? HaU "" pustulosum Win " sp? Gomplioceras omicron Win Spirorbis omphalodes Ooldf " animon Win " obesa Win. , Phacops raha Oreen. Dalmania Boothi HaU Fish Bones ." Cycliferous Ganoid Scale , The grouji contains also an undetermined Taeniopteris and a Ziichenalia. SI The follo\\^ing digest of the foregoing table sets forth the paleontological grounds of the distinction into different beds. ^ ^ 1 1 -1 1 In more than Magnesian Beds 8 3 3 1 1 Acervularia Beds 46 41 24 21 14 12 2 1 6 Bryozoa Beds 7 Stromatopora Beds 21 9 5 1 6 Pleurotomaria Bed 20' 8 6 1 5 The Acervularia and Bryozoa Beds, -while each holds more than 50 per cent, of species not ranging beyond it, contain 19 species, or 28 per cent, of the whole, iii common. Lithologic- ally they may be described as a series of dark, bituminous limestones and shales ; and in the general facies ot the forma- tion, they present themselves structurally as one mass. Below this mass is another of strikingly different aspect, composed of pale buff, massive limestones, with little shaly or bituminous matter, in which 1 have distinguished the Stromatopora and Pleurotomaria Beds ; which, while each holds about 38 per cent, of peculiar sjjecies, contain at the same time 9 species, or about 20 per cent, of the whole, in common. Above the Acer- vularia Beds we find another physical change in the Magne- sian Beds. These are dark-buff, coarse, rough, vesicular, with few fossils. Of these, 3 or 38 per cent, are peculiar ; 2 are species which have too wide a vertical range for use in strati- graphical determinations, and 2 are singularly identified with species in the bottom of the formation. The Chert Beds pre- sent another set of physical characters ; though I suspect the amount of Chert is vei-y variable. I Avould suggest then, as the most obvious and tenable method of grouping the strata, the following : 88 IV. Chert Beds. III. Buff, vesicular Magnesian Limemstones. II. Bituminous Shale, and Limestones. \ Acervularia Beds. ( Bryozoa Beds. I. Pale-buff, massive Limestones. \ Stromatopora Beds. PJeui-otomaria Beds. This grouping of the strata will hold good, I think, through- out the State, and perhaps in other regions. Judging from the fossils, the Acervularia Beds outcrop at Iowa City, and the Bryozoa Beds at New Buffalo, in Iowa. On the eastern side of the peninsula of Michigan, the rocks v/'iih Stromato- pora are seen to be succeeded downwards by the recognized Corniferous limestone. Indeed, the two are here, as in lake Erie, but one mass, physically. DIAGNOSES OF NEW SPECIES. FisTULiPORA LABiosA. — Inci'usting in thin layers ; the deli- cate cell-mouths surrounded by distinctly elevated and tumid lips ; intercellular surface smooth ; intercellular tissue consist- ing of minute polyhedral vesicles — a radiating series often surrounding the minutely septate cells. Intercellular dis- tances .33 mm. (.013)*; diameter of cell-mouths .381 mm. (.015); distance of septa .102 mm. (.004). FiSTULipoRA Saffordi. — lucrustiug in thin layers ; cell- mouths scarcely elevated, without thick lips ; intercellular sur- face generally exposing the minutely vesicular tissue ; vesic- ules often radially disposed around the cells. Intercellular distances .254 mm. (.01) ; diameter of cell-mouths from .355 mm. (.014) to .508 mm. (.020). Callopora punctillata. — Delicate incrustations; cells approximate, but cylindrical or compressed-cylindrical — occa- sionally crowded and sub-prismatic ; intercellular structure minutely vesicular, or, in places, wanting. Intercellular dis- tances .127 mm. (.005) or less; diameter of cell-mouths .152 mm. (.006). Favosites Alpenensis. — Related to Calamopora poly- morpha Goldf. Always massive; mural pores arranged in one (sometimes two) irregularly or scarcely line&l series on each side — their margins indented instead of raised. Walls distinctly double, quite smooth ; septa extremely thin. Cells smaller and pores more numerous than in F. Hillhigsi Romin- ger. Distance of pores 2.286 mm. (.09); of septa 1.270 mm. (•05)- * Measurements in millimetres. Numbers in parenthesis are equiva- lents in inches. 89 Favosites nitella. — Related to C. sponffites, var. ramosa Goldf. In small masses varying from globoid to elongate or scarcely branching. Cells sub-circular, sub-equal, with a few minute interstitial ones. Septa distinct, irregular, complete or incomplete ; pores scattered, indented around the orifices. Distance of pores .76 mm. (.03) ; diameter of largest cells .76 mm. Occurs also at Iowa City. Favosites dumosa. — Resembles F. Alpenensis in size and form of cells and cell-mouths, and in size and arrangement of pores, but dift'ers in much more crowded and thicker septa, and in growing in stout, thickly-clustered branches. Distance of septa .51 mm. (.02). LuxATipoEA (New Genus). — Massive, or with branches consolidated ; cells elongate, radiately ascending and curving outwards from an imaginary flexuons axis, compressed, their transverse section bounded by two or three segments of cir- cles, often sub-crescentic ; walls apparently double, but not separable (?) ; destitute of communicating pores as far as known ; interior with transverse diaphragms. Cell-mouths not seen. Diifers from Favosites and Chcetetes in the form of the cells, and from the former in the probable absence of jwres ; from Alveolites and Cladopora in the great lengthjof the cell-tubes, and from the latter in the presence of distinct diaphragms, and a more massive form. LuNATiPOEA MiCHiGAXEBTSis- — Cclls Small, much flattened ; diaphragms rather remote, complete or incomplete, often ob- lique. Longer diameter of -larger cells 1.55 ram. (.06) to 2.03 mm. (.08) ; shorter diameter .51 mm. (.02). Alveolites strigillata. — Somewhat ramose ; cell-mouths crowded ; transverse section at aperture double-convex ; outer lip slightly elevated in the middle — often with a narrow rim either inflected or reflected ; inner side of aperture marked by 10-15 delicate striie, which diverge and extend oyer the outer lip of the contiguous cells above. Transverse diameter of cell-mouths 1.27 mm. (.05) ; distances apart longitudinally 1.02 mm. (.04). Alveolites megastoma, — Thin incrustations, with large, crowded, obliqe cell-mouths which have the form of a segment of a circle in transverse section ; outer lip, when perfect, lying in a plane normal to the general surface, its exterior marked by minute distinct transverse lines of growth ; radial striae very obscure. Transverse diameter of cell-mouths .28 mm. (.11); distances apart longitudinally, the same. Ch^tetes Hamiltoxexsis. — Inerusting, or in solid tuber- cular masses or stems, with crowded, prismatic tubes .25 mm. (.01) in diameter, diverging in all directions at right angles with the main axis; cell-walls simple ; septa complete .25 mm. 90 (.01) to .51 mm. (.02) apart. A smiilar Canadian species has larger tubes and spinuliferous cell-mouths. Ch.etetes microscopica. Generally small, cylindrical, solid branches, formed of radiately ascending and curving, crowded, polygonal non-septate tubes. Diameter of cell- mouths .28 mm. (.011). SYRiNGoroRA FEisrESTEATA. — Habit and characters similar to the following, but smaller. The young somewhat resemble Aulopora tubmformis Hall (not Goldf.) Diameter of tubes 2.29 mm. (.U). Occurs also in the Hamilton of C. W. Syri:n^gopoea alectiformis. — Tubes large, loosely and confusedly aggregated, prostrate or declined, adhering to other corals, in the young state auloporiform ; exterior smooth or faintly Avrinkled ; interior feebly striate. Diameter of tubes 4.0G mm. (.16) to 5.84 mm. (.23). Syringopora crassata. — Tubes of medium or moderate size, very geniculate and confused, externally much wrinkled transversely ; irregularly constricted, often compressed ; tube- walls unusually thick — the central cavity often neai-ly oblite- rated. Diameter of tubes 1.52 mm. (.06) to 2.03 mm. (.08). _ Zaphrextis Traversensis. — Fossette rudimentary. Dif- fers from Cyathophylluni simplex Hall in its more abundant epitheca, less contorted lamella?, its finely vesicular outer zone, and its more elongated and erect form. Often attached ob- liquely. Zaphrentis cystica. — Outer zone of finely vesicular tissue reaching nearly halfway to the center; central septa very thin and irregular ; lamellae about 60, of which half terminate with the vesicular zone. Cyatiiophyllum panicum. — Having the form and size (or somewhat smaller) of detached stems of Diphi/phyllum Ar- chiaci Billings, but without the double Avail. Resembles C ccespitosum (Goldf.) E. & H., but is more delicate and more straggling. Cyathopiiyllum ? PARTiTUM. — Tubcs small, branching ; walls thick, without radial lamellae or visible sti'ife ; internal cav- ity divided by irregularly disposed vertical partitions, which, in transverse sections, describe the chord (instead of radius) of a circle ; space inclosed between the lamellae and walls trans- versely and minutely septate. The same structure extends into the branches. Epitheca slightly Avrinkled. Diameter of tubes 7.62 mm. (.3). Scarcely conforms to any established genus. Stromatopora pustulifera. — In very large, spheroidal, ovoid or elongate masses, composed of arching, transverse leyers, formed of lamina? of coralline substance separated by a network of minute passages which, at intervals, coalesce and turn upwards through the layer, radiating and i-ainitying again on its upper side. The places where the layers are thus trav- 91 ersed are raised on tbe upper side into little eminences. The distinction of layers is produced by variations in the density of the coralline substance. Masses of coral several feet in diameter; distance of pustules 4.06 mm. (.16) ; mean thickness of laminae .20 mm. (.008). Occurs also at Iowa City. Stkomatopoea monticulifeka. — In very large spheroidal masses constituted like those' of S. pustuUfera, but diftering therefrom in the much larger and more remote eminences on the upper surfaces of the concentric beds, and in the larger and more vlistinctly radiate character of the passages Avhich diverge from the apices of the monticules. These passages, on thejexposed surface, are little flexuous, somewhat branch- ing channels which diminish in size and disappear within 5 mm. (.2). Distance of monticules .76 mm. (.3) to 10.2 mm. (.4). Attains a diameter of at least 3.5 metres (12 ft.) Stromatopora :n^ux. — In small, spheroidal, sometimes con- tiguous and coalesced masses, formed, unlike the foregoing species, by accretions on all sides. External surfaces of layers not pustulose. Masses occur from 25 mm. to 125 mm. in greater diameter. A species apparently the same occurs on Kelly's Island, lake Erie. Stromatopora c^spitosa. — In general form resembling a large, csespitosely branching, cyathophylloid coral ; stems ex- ternally in contact or more than 25 mm. distant. A longitudi- nal section shows the characteristic layers arching across the stem and resembling S. pustuUfera in miniature ; a transverse section exhibits radiating lamellae as in Cyathophyllidce, but there is no outer wall, and the interior is completely filled with concentric circles of coralline substance, except a small perfor- ation in the center. Mural system entirely wanting, as in other Stromatoporte ; exterior of stem longitxidinally triate. Diame- ter of stems 4.5 mm. (.18) to 7.6 mm. (.30). Occurs in masses two or three feet in diameter. This remarkable species exhibits a transition from Stromato- pora to Cyatliophyllum, and might well form the type of a new genus. AuLOPORA SERPULOiDES. — Tubcs miuutc, long, cylindrical, sinuous ; di-or trichotomously stoloniferous, often superim- posed ; cell-mouths circular or compressed, generally opening upwards, not salient. Diameter of tubes .25 mm. (.01) ; length often 1.78 mm. (.07). ArLOPORA APERTA. — Tubcs short, often extended in double or triple linear series ; cell-mouths not elevated, generally not limited on the lower or posterior side, leaving the whole length of the tube open. Diameter of tubes 1.27 mm. (.05). AuLOPORA CONFERTA. — Tubcs Small, compressed, crowded, forming an incrustation ; cell-mouths slightly elevated, circular, erect, sub-equally distributed, presenting a reniote resemblance to a FistuUpora. Mean distances of cell-mouths 1.78 mm. (.07); diameter of cell-mouths .64 mm. (.015.) Resembles A. conglomerata Goldf., but more consolidated. AuLOPORA CYCLOPORA. — Tubes rather long, arranged in single linear series which branch without anastomosing; cell- mouths oblique, not elevated. Length of tubes 2.29 mm. (.09) to 3.56 mm. (.14) ; diameter of cell-mouths 1 mm. (.04). Tentaculites subtilis. — Minute, extremely slender, very gradually tapering; rings regular, rounded. In a terminal fragment 3.81 mm. (.15) long, the whole number of rings is 40; mean distance apart on apical third .064 mm. (.0025). 'Longest specimen 12.7 mm. Fenestella eximia. — Rays angulated along the middle, bearing two rows of pores Avith salient margins, opening ob- liquely ; 23 pores in the distance of ten fenestrules. Length of fenestrules ,51 mm. (.02); breadth .37 mm. (.015.) This species and one similar to the preceding occur at New Buffalo, Iowa. Fenestella filitexta. — Rays extremely delicate, ob- tusely carinated ; fenestrules comparatively large and cells remote. Non-celluliferous side minutely striate. Length of fenestrules 2.03 mm. (.08) ; breadth ,76 mm. (.03) ; diameter of ray -25 mm, (,01) ; distance of cells ,18 mm. (.007) ; longer diameter of cells ,08 mm. (.003), Stictopora sulcata, — Small, compressed, solid, ancipital, dichotomous stems, celluliferous on both sides ; cells oval, Avith salient lips, arranged in 6-9 longitudinal series separated by prominent rigid strife (in one variety little developed). Greater diameter of stem 2.29 mm. (.09) ; less diameter ,89 mm, (,035) ; distance between cells .2 mm, (,009) ; greater diameter of cells .15 mm. (.006) ; less diameter .1 mm. (.004.) Seven cells in 2.5 mm. (1). Crania radicans. — Attached valve very irregular, with distinct cardinal truncation, always presenting the appearance of area, triangular fissure and cardinal processes ; central por- tion of valve often absorbed or Avanting, leaving only the up- turned border. Exterior furnished Avith radiciform, flexuous often bifurcate, hoUoAV spines or appendages, sometimes as long as the shell. Diameter about 3.8 mm. (.15). Crania (Pseudocrania) anomala. — Shell free or attached, irregular, thick ; hinge line nearly equal to greatest width. Ventral valve Avith three or four pairs of muscular impressions, a broad, striated area, arched false deltidium nearly filling the very broa 1 triangular fissure and fusing AA'ith cardinal processes to form a spoon-shaped orthidoid appendage. Exterior Avith many fine radial striae. Transverse diameter 28 mm. (1.1) ; length 20 mm. (.8). Chonetes Emmetensis. — Small, semicircular; hinge-line equal to greatest Avidth, or slightly greater or less, armed Avith two short spines near each extremity, which turn out at right 93 angles to axis of shell, and a minute tubercle near the beak. Dorsal valve very concave. Area wide, formed equally from both valves, turned over into the plane of the shell, slightly hollowed. Triangular foramen occupied by dental process. Ribs 10 or 11 around the margin, stout, convex, simple or with two or three bifurcated ones. Concentric stria? sometimes con- spicuous. Resembles C. gibbosa Hall and C. Koninckana N, & P. in the direction of its spines, but differs from these and related species in the small number of its ribs. Strophodonta erratica. — Resembles S. arcuata Hall in hinge structure, but central cardinal process of ventral valve is narrower, and dental lamellse denticulated. Divaricator scars drawn to a point on median line ; hinge-line abruptly acuminate. Ribs few and large on the umbo, increasing by implantation, and diminishing in size toward the margin. In variety solidicosta, about 9 large nearly undivided ribs ; in variety fissicosta., ribs fimbriated till they number 50 to 80 around the margin. The last variety, except in the ears, re- sembles S. subdemissa Hall. Comp. also with S. pUcata Hall, (XIII Reg. Rep., p. 90) and S? costata Owen, (Surv. Wis. Minn. & lo., Tab. Ill, Fig. 11). Strophodoxta imitata. — Adductor bosses prominent, bi- crescentic, with a short, stout, median ridge issuing from between them forwards. Otherwise resembles S. incequistri- ata, except that the striae are nearly equal, and the shell is relatively shorter and only 12.7 mm. (.5) to 17.8 mm. (.7) broad. Strophodoxta cincta. — Size and general appearance of S. incequistriata. Hinge-line less than greatest width . hinge- angles rounded. Inside of ventral valve minutely pustulose in all parts, and marked by a prominent ridge all around near the border. Divaricator scars diverging, reaching two-thirds the distance to the anterior border ; retractor scars nearly as long. Spirifera liiDORSALis. — Rcsemblcs S. biplicata and bhne- sialis, but is not produced at hinge extremities ; has a high incurved ventral beak, and delicate, regular imbricating lam- ellae. Length 8.88 mm. (.35); breadth 12.7 mm. (.5). Very commonl}'^ parasitic on corals. Spirifera consors. — Semicircular, with salient hinge ex- tremities, ventricose to the margin. Dorsal valve with little elevated but strongly isolated fold, having a median furrow throughout its whole length ; ventral, most ventricose, es- pecially near the incurved beak ; having a broad, sharply- rounded, well-defined sinus reaching to the beak and destitute of a median ridge. Dorsal area narrow ; ventral elevated, arched and perforated by a triangular opening balf as broad as high. Surface with about seven rounded plications each side of the middle, and crossed by feeble lines of growth. 94 Length 11.68 ram- (.46); breadth 21. G mm. (.85); depth of both valves 11.22 mm. (44). Less iiiucronate, more ventricose, and with fewer phcations than /S. subattenuata varicosa and himesialis. Much more ventricose than S. bidorsalis. Apparently identical with an undescribed species from Columbus, Ohio. Spirifeka filicosta. — Form and two-thirds the size of S. Parryana Hall. Fold and sinus much less pronounced and, with the fewer plieation.s, marked by numerous radial stria>. Ventral beak much incurved ; area not Avell defined. Maktixia atiiyroides. — Triangularly terebratuliform, with- out fold or sinus. Ventral valve nearly twice as deep as the other, with a projecting, someAvhat incurved beak. No true area, but a l>road, triangular fissure extends to the apex of the beak. Shell- structure thin -lamellar — neither punctate nor fibrous. Incremental surface markings numerous, fine, regular. Length 14.22 nmi. (.56); breadth 18.'21 ram. (.52). Resembles CharioneUa Circe Billings, from Corniferous limestone, but the beak is not perforate. Spirigera eborea. — General appearance of small speci- mens of S. concentrica, but more ventricose, Avith a fuller and more produced ventral beak. Shell substance extremely solid and ivory -like, but not punctate ; sm-face polished, with nume- rous extremely delicate concentric stria?. Length 9.4 mra. (.37); breadth 9.14 mra. (.36); depth of ventral valve 4.06 mm. (.16). Merista leks. — Quadrate-rotund, lenticular, both valves equally convex, the ventral having the beak closely incurved over its opposite. Ventral sinus only represented by a slight anterior projection ; dorsal fofd only a broad angulation of the valve, except antei-iorly. Surface of casts marked by six nar- row, remote, radiating ridges around the middle of each valve, bifurcated nearer the margin, (vascular markings ?) Occlusor scars ligulate, deep. Shell thick, fibrous. Spires present. Length and breadth 19.81 mm. (.78). Trematospira ? LTNiuscDLA. — Form and size of T. perfo- rata Hall. Cast with numerous faint radiating lines. Ven- tral beak incurved, apparently imperforate. Dei.tal lamellse two-fifths the length of the valve. Occlusor scars OAal, deep. Dorsal A'ulve with a transverse narrow area; false area of ven- tral valve with a triangular fissure extending to the beak. Fold and sinus reaching the beak, but very feeble. Pentaaierus ixtralineatus. — Size of P. occidentaUs Hall, but broader and more regularly (though faintly) costate on the anterior two-thirds, with shallow ventral sinus reaching to beak. Shell-fibres arranged concentrically. Exterior with numerous Avavy, sub-lamellose, concentric grooves, and fine intervening strife ; interior Avith numerous fine, radiating, grooved stria?. 96 Leiorhynchus sesquiplicatus. — Shell haA'ing the form of Spirigera concentncay with a more abrupt sinus and fold which, with the faint plications, extend only half way to the beak. About four plications on the fold, and as many on eack side. Cbnceutric lines fine and indistinct. Length 8.38 mm. (.33); breadth 9.65 mm. (.38). Terebratula Traversensis. — In form i-esembling T, Linkkeni Hall, but broader, with more of a false area on ven- tral valve, and no trace of sinus. Surface, also, sub-lamel- iosely striate concentrically, and pores larger, more oval and more remote — their two diameters and their distances being as 4 : 7 : 6, while in T. LinMceni the same dimensions are as 3: 4: 4. Smaller diameter of pores .0321 mm. (.00126); greater .0559 mm. (.00220) ; the intervening distance from end to nearest end of pore .048 mm. (.00189.) In T. Link- Icmii these dimensions are .0213 mm. (.00084), .0321 mm. (.00126) and ,0359 mm. (.00141). AvicuLOPECTEN iKTERCOSTALis. — Nearly circiilar in out- line, compressed; anterior ear (of left valve) large, depressed- convex, strongly isolated ; posterior ear small ; surface (of cast) with about 36 distinct, rigid, neatly defined ribs alter- nated with the same number of feebler rays terminating in the middle of the shell ; posterior ear and slope feebly costate ; anterior ear strongly so ; whole surfoce with fine concentric strife, stronger on the anterior ear. Length and height 21.6 mm. (.85). Sangiixolites (GRAirMYSiA ?) suLciFER. — Small, gibbous, oblong; beak sub-terminal, incurved, overhanging a deep lunule ; pallial border straight or broadly sinuate ; umbonal ridge sub-angulated ; surface with 16-20 deep sulci separated by thin lameUiform, non-imbricated leaves. Length of medium specimen 7.62 mm. (.3) ; height 5.08 mm. (.2) ; thickness of both valves 3.56 mm. (.14). . LuciKA? Hamiltonensis.-— Shell small, circular, appressed; beaks central, small, scarcely exceeding tlie hinge-line, turned forward. Exterior with 8-10 deep, broad concentric furrows on the body of the shell, and numerous concentric stride. Length 15.24 mm. (.6); height 13;9V mm. (.55). Smaller, less gibbous and more deeply and broadly sulcated than L? prO' avia. ^ Conooardium Emmetejstse. — Abruptly truncate anteriorly, conical posteriorly, constricted behind the beaks, gibbous, or- namented with about a dozen strong ribs, which are cancel- lated l)y finer and more numerous concentric strite — the three ribs on the angle of t..e truncation stronger than the others. Differs from C. eJorace^^m .Hall in the much greater relative relative strength of the ribs. . CoNOCARDRM BiFARiuM. — Small; body of shell rising into a ventricose ridge running nearly at right angles with hinge, 96 with a deep constriction on each side — deepest on rostral side; whole surface costate with rounded ribs which are largest on the rostrate slope of urabonal swell ; inside of shell marked by square ribs corres^)onding to the intervals between the exter- nal ones. Exterior also with fine concentric stria?, Edmondia ? LEDOiDES. — Elongatc-ovate, ventricose, slightly narrowed and appressed posteriorly ; ventral margin distinctly but not strongly curved, hinge margin slightly so ; beak sub- terminal, little projecting. Casts with a ftiint fold running from beneath the beak to the postero-ventral region. Cardinal processes (teeth ?) consisting of one stout and triangular under beak of left valve, and two smaller ones in right valve. Each valve has also a pair of slender divergent lamellar teeth (per- haps " cartilage supports,") exterior to the cardinal ones. Length 25.4 mm. (1.) ; height 12.19 mm. (.48). Edmondia mactboides. — Hinge structure and principal characters like E. ledoides, but shorter, more ventricose, rounded on ventral side, sometimes sub-angulated along ante- rior and posterior unbonal slopes — especiaHy in old specimens. Anterior and posterior muscular pits rather deep, round-oval, near the beak. Commissure deeply indented anteriorly, be- neath the beaks. Exterior marked only by faint lines of growth. Length 14.22 mm. (.56) ; length of anterior end 4.83 mm. (.19); height 11.17 mm. [.44]; convexity of both valves 9.65 ram. [.38]. Longest specimen 30.48 mm. [1.2]. MuRCHisoxViA MucKO. — Small, turreted, of 6-8 rounded whorls isolated by a deep suture, and marked bj a relatively broad, raised, bicarinate band along the middle ; lip slightly effuse anteriorly ; umbilicus small. Height 5.08 mm. [.2] ; di- ameter of base 2.03 mm. [.08]. Pleukotomaria CAVuMiiiLicATA.—- Rather large, deeply and broadly umbilicate, depressed conical, nearly twice as broad as high ; whorls 5-6, with subcircular section, the later ones flattened above, suture impressed ; exterior of whorls with obliquely transverse lines which, in the umbilical cavity, and sometimes on the base, coalesce into strong ridges. In- terior smooth ; two or three of the apical whorls often regu- larly septate. Height 23.88 mm. [.94] ; diameter of last whorl 38.61 mm. [1.52]. Pleurotomaria Emmetexsis. — Higher than broad ; whorls 6 to 8, all rounded, marked by a faint median, revolving, nar- row band, and fine, transverse, sigmoid striae. Cast smooth. Height 28.45 mm. [1.12] ; diameter of last whorl 22.61 mm. [.89]. Pleurotomaria parvispira. — Small, depressed ; whorls 4 to 5, rapidly enlarging, biaiigulated, the flattened upper surface at right angles with the flat peripheral, and with the axis of the shell. Surface with faint sigmoid transverse strije. Height 97 7.37 mm. [.29] ; height of last whoii 6.84 mm. [.2.3]; diameter of base 9.91 mm. [.39j. Orthoceras pustuloslm. — Characterized by having the exterior covered with pustules of varying sizes and unequally distributed. GoMPiiocERAS OMKROx. — Rather large, compressed-ovate, abruptly constricted at aperture *, septa about 12 — the last at largest diameter of shell — their distances increasing from 4.57 mm. [.18] near apex to 8.13 mm, [.32] next to last chamber. Siphon large, sub-marginal. Length about 127 mm. [5.]; greater diameter about 76 mm. [3], ; smaller 63 ram, [2.5]. Spirorbis ammox, — Aspect and size of S. omphalodes Goldf., but more strictly planorbiform, has uniformly one more whorl, and is less rapidly enlarged, Spirorbis obesa, — Three or four times the diameter of S. oinjihalodea, consisting of two or three rapidly enlarging, nearly planorboid whorls. The foregoing is a summary of all that is at present known of the rocks of the Hamilton group on the western side of the lower peninsula of Michigan. Axx Abbor, 31 July, 1986, OCT. 8, m, r <^ ^^ ,^ .* \'>^ -Mm-, %,^^ :0^:-- \/ :MK' %. ly t* .t m h8 \\r A V