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TWENTY-FIVE OE3STTS. 
 
 NEW-YORK 
 
 HURST & CO., PUBLISHERS. 
 
THE BOOK OF 
 
 BEAUTY, VIGOR AND ELEGANCE 
 
 SHOWING HOW TO ATTAIN 
 
 STRENGTH OF LIMBS, CLEARNESS OF COMPLEXION, 
 AND PLUMPNESS AND SUPPLENESS OF FORM, 
 
 WITH PLAIN AXD AMPL1 DIRECTIONS ABOUT 
 
 BATHING, EXEKCISE AND DIET, 
 
 ALSO INCLUDING 
 
 THE WHOLE ART AND SCIENCE OF DRESSING WITH 
 TASTE, ELEGANCE AND ECONOMY.^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 HURST &CO., PUBLISHERS 
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by Hurst & Co., in the Office of the 
 Librarian of Congress, at "Washington, D. C, 
 
 
ka Invaluable Work on Practical end Amateur Taxidermy, 
 
 THE 
 
 TAXIDERMIST'S GUIDE ; 
 
 OR, 
 
 THE ART OF COLLECTING, PREPARING, MOUNTING, 
 
 AND PRESERVING ALL KINDS OF ANIMALS, 
 
 BIRDS FISHES, REPTILES, INSECTS, Etc. 
 
 <V\4 
 
 This is a truly valuable and indispensable work for the use oi 
 the Naturalist, Traveler, and Amateur, or any one who delights 
 in observing the interesting and multifarious products of Na- 
 ture. It gives plain directions for skinning, stuffing and mount- 
 ing all animals, from a mouse to an elephant. Also how to 
 Catch, Skin, Preserve, and Mount aH kinds of Birds, both land 
 and water. Also 
 
 The Best Method of Preserving Birds' Nests and Eggs. 
 
 IT TEACHES THE AST OP 
 
 SKINNING, PRESERVING, AND SETTING UP REP- 
 * TILES, FISHES, AND MOLLUSCOUS ANIMALS, 
 
 including Tortoises, Turtles, Crocodiles, Lizards, Serpents of all 
 kinds, Frogs, and Toads. It also gives the best methods of Col- 
 lecting, Preserving, and Polishing all kinds of Land, Marine and 
 Fresh Water Shells ; the art of 
 
 Breeding and Bearing Insects, and Preparing Skeletons, 
 
 including a number of the best receipts used by the most emi- 
 nent Taxidermists of Europe for various articles used in the 
 preservation and setting up of animals. 
 
 Illustrated by Many Pirst-Olass Engravings. 
 
 PRICE— 30 CENTS. 
 
 Sent by mail to any address on receipt of price. 
 
PERSONAL BEAUTY. 
 
 The art of looking one's best is not easily acquired. Close 
 study, some knowledge and good natural taste, are necessary for 
 even beauty to display itself to the greatest advantage. What 
 has been written about "beauty unadorned" being "adorned 
 the most," is only true in a limited sense. Beauty must make 
 the most of itself, by bringing art to the aid of nature, and — 
 which is more important still — it must take the necessary steps 
 for its preservation. 
 
 It is to the toilet that beauty resorts for these purposes. There, 
 also, the less favored find the means of simulating the charms 
 they do not naturally possess ; and though the sterner sex are 
 not supposed to "sacrifice to the Graces," a modern Valentine 
 would, without attention to the toilet, soon degenerate into a 
 veritable Orson. 
 
 Every lady owes it to herself to be fascinating ; every gentle- 
 man is bound, for his own sake, to be presentable ; but beyond 
 this there is the obligation to society, to one's friends, and to 
 those with whom we may be brought in contact. If I request a 
 lady to honor me by accompanying me to a Lecture, and she 
 presents herself with tumbled hair, a questionable face, an ill- 
 chosen dress, badly fitting gloves, and an atmosphere of cheap 
 and offensive perfumes, she does me a positive wrong ; she be- 
 comes an infliction which I have no right to suffer. So again, 
 if I make an appointment with a gentleman to walk in the Park 
 with him, and he appears in the condition of a man who has slept 
 
8 HOW TO TAKE A BATH. 
 
 in a stable, with shaggy hair and beard, creased clothes, soiled 
 linen, and with an odor of stale tobacco pervading him, I have a 
 right to resent it as an affront. Duty, therefore, has even more 
 to do with attention to the toilet than vanity ; we owe it to our- 
 selves, and we owe it to others, to turn our personal attractions 
 to the very best account, and to preserve every agreeable quality 
 we may have been endowed with to the latest period of our re- 
 spective lives. 
 
 BATHING. 
 
 Without proper attention, to bathing, it is impossible either to 
 preserve beauty, or to regain it when lost. Much of the predis- 
 position to catarrh consumption and diseases of the throat in this 
 country is doubtless due to want of daily ablutions in cold or 
 tepid water. There is nothing that will harden the frame and 
 enable it to successfully withstand the changes of our variable 
 climate, surer than the daily bath. 
 
 When we know that the skin is constantly throwing off fine 
 dust-like scales, and that these, blendin"g with other foreign mat- 
 ter, stop up the pores, and so prevent the skin from performing 
 its natural functions, it is quite clear that constant bathing is 
 necessary to preserve the health of the body. 
 
 HOW TO TAKE A BATH. 
 
 On rising in the morning, if the sponge be used for ablution, 
 the body should be divested of the garments worn during the 
 night, and the skin fully exposed to the atmosphere of the dress- 
 ing-room. The body should then be well sponged over the whole 
 of its surface, and immediately rubbed dry with rough towels. 
 Let not the delicate lady fear this — her skin will be improved by 
 the friction. If cold water be used, and it produce a feeling of 
 heat — or, more correctly speaking, a glow all over the body— af- 
 fording a sensation of pleasurable warmth, the cold water should 
 have the preference ; but if, after its use, there is a feeling of 
 chilliness and languor, the skin has not power to react, and the 
 water should be lukewarm. After the body has been rubbed dry, 
 friction should be applied with a flesh brush, and the whole per- 
 son enveloped, so long as convenience requires it, in a flannel 
 wrapper. For delicate females, especially young girls showing a 
 predisposition to pulmonary consumption, a ball of flannel may 
 
HOW TO TAKE A BATH. V 
 
 be substituted for the flesh-brush ; though when this latter is used, 
 I would recommend its being sufficiently hard and strong to red- 
 den the skin, and remove the epidermal scales. 
 
 In using the shower-bath,* if the hair is not to be wetted, a cap, 
 made of oil-skin, must cover the head. "When cold water agrees 
 with the bather, producing by reaction a pleasurable glow upon 
 the skin, the shower-bath is by far preferable to any other modo 
 of daily general ablution. In taking it, the whole surface of the 
 body receives the w r ater almost at the same instant. Previously 
 to entering the bath, the feet should be put into dry slippers used 
 for no other purpose, or else a dry board should be placed for the 
 bather to stand upon as he receives the water, a precaution to 
 prevent the feet from being wetted before the water falls upon 
 the head. . 
 
 This description of bath is excellent for persons subject to de- 
 termination of blood to the head. When any such use it, the 
 bare head should be exposed to the contact of the cold water, 
 while the feet are immersed in warm water, filling the bottom or 
 floor of the bathing apparatus. The use of the warm water is to 
 cause expansion of the blood-vessels of the feet, which greatly 
 assists the ordinary effect of the cold water in restoring the equi- 
 librium of the circulation. 
 
 If the cold water does not produce a glow upon the skin, but 
 chilliness and languor of body, and the shower-bath is preferred 
 to the sponge, the temperature of the water must be raised ; and, 
 according to circumstances, a tepid or lukewarm shower-bath re- 
 sorted to. In winter, when frost is prevalent, or the atmosphere 
 raw and damp, even those who take the cold water shower-bath, 
 should not use it at a lower temperature than 50 deg. Farenheit. 
 
 Friction with coarse towels until the body is dry, and then 
 friction with the flesh-brush, are as necessary a sequel to the 
 operation of the shower-bath, as to that of the sponge. 
 
 The body having thus received the contact of water succeeded 
 by friction, the vascular action of the skin is so excited, as to re- 
 sist every ordinary degree of cold. Thus, there is no danger of 
 cold-catching during not only the remainder of the time occupied 
 by the arrangements of the toilette, but during the ensuing twenty- 
 four hours. If, on rising from the bed, there is moisture on the 
 skin, no fear of catching cold need be entertained from the use 
 
10 HOW TO TAKE A BATH. 
 
 of the sponge, or the shower-bath, even during the existence of 
 such perspiration. , 
 
 The surface of the body being thus washed and rubbed, there 
 remain other parts to undergo a more formal sort of washing, in 
 which soap is a necessary agent. Of these, the feet should be 
 washed first. The water should be tepid, though some prefer it 
 cold. This, in winter, is decidedly bad ' and, in that season, im- 
 mersion for a few minutes in water almost as cold as the air, may 
 cause considerable injury. Each part of the body, as it is washed, 
 should be dried with a course, in preference to a fine towel. 
 
 The morning ablutions which I have described, including the 
 operations upon the face, hands, and other parts of the body, 
 are not, however, wholly sufficient to keep the system in perfect 
 health ; a periodical washing of a different kind is needed. Once 
 a week, a warm bath should be taken, about five or six degrees 
 hotter than the body, and the whole surface of the body well 
 rubbed with fine soap and flannel. 
 
 To make the skin supple and soft, or to restore it to a proper 
 condition, if rough,— to free it, in short, from those impurities 
 which are often the consequence of neglecting this organ, and 
 charge loveliness of feature, and beauty of form, with unseemly 
 cutaneous eruptions, it may be rubbed with the following prepar- 
 ation instead of soap : Boil in soft water a dozen pounds of barley- 
 meal and four pounds of bran, until the whole is of the consis- 
 tence of thick cream. "When this is washed off, almond paste 
 may be used, and the second bath resorted to immediately. For 
 ordinary periodical bathing, however, one bath, and a good soap- 
 ing, are quite sufficient. 
 
 After leaving the bath, the skin must be well and strongly rubbed 
 with coarse, warm towels. If the flesh-brush has been used after 
 the ablutions of the morning, it need not succeed the warm 
 bathing. 
 
 It is surprising to observe the effect of these warm baths on the 
 complexion. Besides the beauty and suppleness which they pro- 
 duce in the skin, they bring back the bloom of youth to those 
 from whom it has departed, or is fast departing. But the most 
 important advantage derived from them is, the strength and tone 
 which they impart to the whole frame. The entire system is in- 
 vigorated, and the skin brought to a condition which enables it 
 
THE COMPLEXION. 11 
 
 to resist any degree of cold. The fear, therefore, entertained by 
 many of catching cold on leaving the warm bath, is groundless ; 
 and I am convinced, that a healthy person might leave a warm 
 bath at 95 deg. and receive without injury, the contents of a shower- 
 bath at 50 deg., and indeed much lower. 
 
 "Washing with cold water, in the manner described for the mor- 
 ing ablutions, should never be practised after muscular exercise. 
 When fatigued by such exercise, recourse should be had to the 
 warm bath, which will afford immediate relief, by relaxing the 
 stiffened muscles, and restoring tone to the skin. 
 
 If the practice I have indicated were universally pursued, the 
 tendency of Americans to M catch cold" would diminish, ladies 
 would no longer fear to encounter the air of their dressing-rooms, 
 and many a fair flower would be preserved which is now nipped 
 during its early blossom by the ruthless hand of consumption, a 
 disease much aggravated by the habits of life prevalent in this 
 country. 
 
 THE COMPLEXION 
 
 For the preservation of the complexion, we give the following 
 rules : 
 
 Eise early and go to bed early. Take plenty of exercise. Use 
 plenty of cold water and good soap frequently. Be moderate in 
 eating and drinking. Avoid as much as possible the vitiated at- 
 mosphere of crowded assemblies, and shun cosmetics and washes 
 for the skin. Some of these are harmless, and for two of them 
 we have given receipts elsewhere, but there are others in which 
 there are mineral substances which are most injurious ; they dry 
 up the skin, and only defeat the end they are supposed to have 
 in view. 
 
 We may here mention that violet-powder, which is so much in 
 use, should be avoided as much as possible, as it tends to make 
 the skin rough and enlarge the the pores. 
 
 Moles are frequently a great disfigurement to the face, but they 
 should not be tampered with in any way. The only safe and 
 certain mode of getting rid of moles is by a surgical operation. 
 
 Freckles are of two kinds. Those occasioned by exposure to 
 the sunshine, and consequently evanescent, are denominated 
 1 ' summer freckles;" those which are constitutional and perma- 
 nent are called "cold freckles " 
 
12 THE COMPLEXION. 
 
 With." regard to the latter it is impossible to give any advice 
 which will be of value." They result from causes not to be affect- 
 ed by mere external applications. Summer freckles are not so 
 difficult to deal with, and with a little care the skin may be kept 
 free from this cause of disfigurement. 
 
 Some skins are so delicate that they become freckled on the 
 slightest exposure in the open air of summer. The cause assigned 
 for this is, that the iron in the blood forming a junction with the 
 oxygen, leaves a rusty mark where the junction takes place. 
 
 If this is so, the obvious cure is to dissolve the combination — 
 for which purpose this course has been recommended. Prepare 
 the skin, by spreading over it at night a paste composed of 1 oz. 
 of bitter almonds, ditto of barley flour, and a sufficient quantity 
 of honey to give the paste consistency. Wash off in the morning 
 and during the day apply, with a camel-hair brush, a lotion com- 
 pound thus : 1 drachm of muriatic acid, ^ pint of rain water, and 
 a teaspoonful of lavender water, mixed. 
 
 The following remedies have also been recommended : — 
 
 1. At night wash the skin with elder-flower water, and apply 
 an ointment — made by simmering gently — 1 oz. of Venice soap, 
 a i oz. of deliquated oil of tartar, and the same of oil of bitter 
 almonds, when it acquires consistency of 3 drops of rhodium may 
 be added. Wash the ointment off in the morning with rose water. 
 
 2. 1 oz. of alum, ditto of lemon juice, in a pint of rose water. 
 
 3. Scrape horseradish into a cup of cold sour milk, let it stand 
 twelve hours, strain, and apply two or three times a day. 
 
 4. Mix' lemon juice, 1 oz., powdered borax, a \ drachm, sugar, 
 h a drachm, keep for a few days in a glass bottle, apply occasion- 
 ally. 
 
 5. Another remedy is, muriate of ammonia, ^ a drachm, laven- 
 der water, 2 drachms, distilled water, J a pint; apply two or three 
 times a day. 
 
 (5. Into J a pint of milk squeeze the juice of a lemon, with a 
 spoonful of brandy, and boil, skimming well ; add a drachm of 
 rock-alum. 
 
 There are various other discolorations of the skin, proceeding 
 frequently from derangement of the system ; the cause should 
 always be discovered before attempting a remedy, otherwise you 
 may increase the complaint instead of curing it. 
 
THE EYES. 13 
 
 Mr. "Wilson recommends the following as good cerate for re- 
 moving discoloration of the skin : — 
 
 " Elder-flower ointment, 1 ozr, sulphate of zinc, 20 grains; 
 mix well, and rub into the affected skin at night. In the morn- 
 ing wash it off with plenty of soap,. and when the grease is com- 
 pletely removed, apply the following lotion : — Infusion of rose 
 petals, \ a pint, citric acid, SO grains. All local discolorations 
 will disappear under this treatment, and if the freckles do not 
 entirely yield, they will, in most instances, be greatly ameliorated. 
 Should any unpleasant irritation, or roughness of the skin, follow 
 the application, a lotion composed of J a pint of almond mixture, 
 and \ a drachm of Goulard's extract, will afford immediate re- 
 lief. "* 
 
 Some further information on this subject will be found under 
 the heading u Toilet Receipts," at the end of this volume. 
 
 THE EYES. 
 
 Beautiful eyes are the gift of nature ; but even those of the 
 greatest beauty may owe something to the toilet, while those of 
 an indifferent kind are often susceptible of improvement. 
 
 "We entirely discountenance any tampering with the eye itself, 
 with a view to giving it lustre or brightness. The sight has often 
 been injured by the use of belladonna, preparations of the Cala- 
 bar bean, eyebright, and other substances having a strong effect 
 on the eyes. 
 
 But without touching the eye itself it is possible to give the 
 effect of brightness, softness, &c, by means of the eyelids and 
 eyelashes. Made-up eyes are by no means desirable, and to many 
 are singularly displeasing ; the same may be said of "made-up " 
 faces generally. Some ladies are, however, persuaded that it adds 
 to their charms to give their eyes a long almond shape, after the 
 Egyptian type, while very many are persuaded that the eye is not 
 seen to advantage unless its apparent size is increased by the 
 darkening of the lids. 
 
 Both these effects are produced by means of what is termed 
 kohl, a black powder, which may be procured at the druggist's, 
 and is mixed with rose-water, and applied with a camel hair brush. 
 
 Many ladies with light or red hair have recently adopted the 
 singular idea of darkening the eyebrows and eyelids, under the 
 
14 THE EYFS. 
 
 impression that it gives piquancy to the face. But though a blue 
 eye peeping through a dark eyelash is often charming enough in 
 nature, the effect is seldom good when artificially produced. 
 
 Long eyelashes are seldom preserved in this country after thirty 
 years of age, because their growth is neglected. In females as 
 well as in men, they constitute a beautiful feature and add great- 
 ly to the expression of the eyes and eyebrows. If examined 
 , through a magnifying glass, when they begin to decline, the ex- 
 tremities will be found split. If these extremities are clipped 
 with scissors every six weeks, not only will the long eyelashes be 
 preserved, but they will increase in strength, and assume the 
 curve so becoming to a beautiful pair of woman's eyes. By this 
 practice, long eyelashes may be obtained, even at an advanced 
 period of life. In children, the extremity of each eyelash should 
 be periodically cut, and the practice continued as they ad vance 
 towards adult age. In performing this operation upon either 
 adults or children, the extremity alone should be clipped, so that 
 the eyelashes shall not be disfigured by being too short. As they 
 increase in length from this clipping, they will acquire much 
 greater strength ; and if a magnifying glass could be applied at 
 each operation, the split portion alone should be taken oft, this 
 being quite sufficient to promote a luxuriant growth. 
 
 When at a certain period of life, the eyelashes of a lady begin 
 to appear weak and shorter than before the spring of youth was 
 past, somewhat more than the extremities should be clipped off 
 the first time they are cut ; after this, the tips alone will be suffi- 
 cient for the periodical operation of the scissors. 
 
 Dyeing them is another expedient for increasing their effect 
 often resorted to. A good permanent black is all that is needed, 
 arid Indian ink serves the purpose as well as anything. 
 
 As an impromptu expedient to serve for one night — say while 
 staying at a coun'ry house — a hair-pin held for a few seconds in 
 the flame of a candle, and drawn through the lashes, will serve 
 to color them well and with sufficient durability. We need scarce- 
 ly add that the hair-pin must be suffered to grow cold before used, 
 or the consequence may be that no eyelash will be left to color. 
 
 Good eyebrows are not to be produced artificially. It is possi- 
 ble, however, to prevent those which are really good from de- 
 generating through neglect. When wiping the face dry after. 
 
THE HAIR. 15 
 
 washing, pass a corner of the towel over the forefinger, and set 
 the eyebrows in the form you wish them to assume. And when 
 oiling the hair do not forget to oil the eyebrows also. 
 
 Many persons are troubled with their eyebrows meeting over 
 the nose, or at least growing closer together than is consistent 
 with beauty. In this case they often pluck out the hairs, but it 
 does not get rid of them. That is only to be done by the use of 
 a depilatory (see Toilet Receipts) ; but the consequence of using 
 this is that a mark, like a scar left from a burn, remains, and is 
 more disfiguring than the hair it has eradicated. 
 
 It is well to have on the toilet-table a remedy for inflamed eyes. 
 Spermaceti ointment is simple and well adapted to this purpose. 
 Apply at night, and wash off with rose water in the morning. 
 Golden ointment will serve the like purpose. Or there is a sim- 
 ple lotion made by dissolving a very small piece of alum and a 
 piece of lump sugar of the same size in a quart of water ; put 
 the ingredients into the water cold, and let them simmer. Bathe 
 the eyes frequently with it. 
 
 Sties in the eye are irritating and disfiguring. Foment with 
 warm water ; at night apply a bread and milk poultice. "When a 
 white head forms, prick it with a fine needle. Should the inflam- 
 mation be obstinate, a little citrine ointment may be applied, care 
 being taken that it does not get into the eye, and an aperient 
 should be tried. 
 
 THE HAIR. 
 
 One of the most admired ornaments of the person is the hair. 
 So necessary is it considered to the perfection of female charms, 
 that any loss or deterioration of this covering of the head im- 
 pairs the beauty of women to such a degree that artificial locks 
 are often added to those scantily furnished by nature, in ordei to 
 give the proper effect to a set of beautiful features, which, with- 
 out such aid, would be deprived of half their power. The ap- 
 pearance of a man, also, is greatly improved by a fine head of 
 hair. Both sexes are liable, but the male in a much greater de- 
 gree, to the loss of this ornament, which, under circumstances of 
 ordinary occurrence, falls off, leaving the head partially, some- 
 times entirely, bald. 
 
 When the skin is in an unhealthy condition from bodily dis- 
 ease, caused perhaps by want of proper care, and arising there- 
 
16 THE HAIR. 
 
 fore from this organ itself, the hair of the head will fall off. Fever 
 most frequently produces this effect ; so do habits of intemper- 
 ance, dyspepsia, the effects of exposure to intense cold which the 
 skin cannot resist, those also of a sedentary life, all combined 
 with want of daily general ablution and skin-rubbing, and in many 
 cases attended with want of exercise. The hair of men more 
 commonly falls off than that of women ; and they become bald, 
 from the greater excitement of the brain which their pursuits 
 occasion. Bald women are less frequently seen. It has been 
 observed that agriculturists and laboring men, in good health, 
 who exercise manual labor in the open air, retain their hair to a 
 late period in life ; whilst the man of science or literature, the 
 merchant confined to his counting-house, the storekeeper, and 
 the factory laborer, often become bald. 
 
 The oil constituting the coloring principle of the hair is, in 
 many constitutions, secreted by organs so delicate that any dis- 
 order of body or mental affection will gradually put an end to 
 their action, and by rapid degrees the hair turns first gray, then 
 snow-white. Gray hair is very frequently seen among men scarce - 
 ly emerged from the spring of manhood, when great excitement 
 of the brain has been of habitual occurrence, either from mental 
 labor, grief, anxiety of mind, or fear. 
 
 Nothing is simpler or better in the way of oil than pare, un- 
 scented Lucca salad oil, and, in the way of a pomatum, genuine 
 bear's grease is as pleasant as anything. But we add one or two 
 varieties of pomatum among our " Toilet Receipts." 
 
 Apply, either with the hand, or — and this is a cleaner and more 
 efficacious plan — keep a soft brush for the purpose, but take care 
 not to use the oleaginous substance too freely. An over-oiled 
 head of hair is vulgar and offensive. It is as well also to keep a 
 piece of flannel with which to rub the hair at night before brush- 
 ing it, so that all the oil used in the day may be removed, 
 
 Vinegar and water forms a good wash for the roots of the hair ; 
 a solution of ammonia is often used with good effect for the same 
 purpose. For removing scurf, glycerine diluted with a little rose- 
 water will be found of service. Any preparation of rosemary 
 forms an agreeable and highly' cleansing wasli. 
 
 The yolk of an egg, beaten up in warm water is a most nutri- 
 tious application to the scalp. 
 
HOW TO RESTORE THE HAIR AND PREVENT BALDNESS. 17 
 
 A very good one is made in this way : Take an ounce of pow- 
 dered borax and a small piece of camphor, and dissolve in a quart 
 of boiling water ; the hair must afterwards be washed in warm 
 water. 
 
 Many heads of hair require nothing more in the way of wash 
 than soap and water. 
 
 Mr. Erasmus Wilson gives the following receipt for strengthen- 
 ing the hair, and to prevent its falling off : — " Vinegar of cantha- 
 rides, half an ounce ; eau-de-cologne, one ounce ; rose-water, 
 one ounce. n The scalp should be brushed briskly until it becomes 
 red, and the lotion should then be applied to the roots of the hair 
 twice a day. 
 
 Beware of letting the hair grow too long, as the points are apt 
 to weaken and split. It is as well to have it cut once a month. 
 
 HOW TO KESTOKE THE HAIE AND PKEVENT BALDNESS. 
 
 Grey hair and baldness are two very prevalent conditions, and 
 from the number of advertisements that are continually before 
 the public relating to their cure, it must be a matter of great in- 
 terest to the community, as well as one on which vast sums are 
 spent to correct these defects. 
 
 When the hair drops from the head, the body cannot be in a 
 condition of entire health. The first thing, therefore, to be done 
 for the cure of baldness, or to prevent it when the hair has be- 
 gun to fall off, is to bring the system into the most perfect condi- 
 tion. The skin and the stomach are the principal organs to be 
 attended to, and the proper condition of the first insures, in all 
 general cases, that of the latter. If baldness be only incipient, 
 or the hair has only begun to drop, nature will sometimes cure 
 the evil without further stimulus than the proper use of the brush. 
 But if the baldness be of long standing, the skin of that part of 
 the head which the hair has quitted must be much more highly 
 excited, to bring to the part an increase of blood. This excite- 
 ment must even be carried so far as to produee a certain degree 
 of inflammation. 
 
 It has often been observed that after the head has been blistered, 
 the hair will grow very luxuriantly ; and that subsequently to 
 such application, bald parts have been covered with hair. With 
 this fact before them, it is surprising that medical men have not 
 
18 HOW TO RESTORE THE HAIR AND PREVENT BALDNESS. 
 
 directed their attention to the restoration of the hair, instead of 
 exposing the public to the impositions practised, with their nos- 
 trums, by perfumers and hair-dressers. A young man, the patient 
 of a London medical practitioner, lost by fever two patches of 
 hair, one on each side of his head. The mother of the youth 
 had a wash made to restore her son's hair. The medical practi- 
 tioner, who has always evinced much professional philosophy, 
 and is therefore very successful in his practice, begged the moth- 
 er to allow him to try to redeem the hair on one patch, while she 
 applied the wash to the other. The doctor crossed his patch all 
 over with caustic potash — the mother applied the wash to hers. 
 The irritation produced by the caustic potash made the hair grow 
 on the doctor's patch, but that of the mother remained bare ; the 
 wash produced no more hair than Macassar Oil or Balm of Colum- 
 bia would have done. The mother at length begged that the 
 doctor would try his skill upon the patch which, under her efforts, 
 still remained bald. In a few weeks from this period, the hair 
 made its appearance, under the action of the potash. 
 
 A public functionary at Paris having become bald, from the 
 crown of the head to the brow, in which state he remained be- 
 tween two and three yeers, had his hair completely restored by a 
 pomatum made of the protochloride of copper, blended with 
 hog's-lard. This was rubbed into the skin of the bald part, with 
 a considerable degree of friction. In a few days, sores appeared 
 wherever the pomatum had been applied. These were aggrava- 
 ted by a continued use of the remedy until the head was in a state 
 of considerable inflammation. The application, though painful, 
 was attended with complete success. As the inflammation sub- 
 sided, and the skin approached its normal condition, hair began 
 to cover the surface. It grew rapidly and luxuriantly, and he 
 who had appeared bald was scarcely recognised by his acquain- 
 tance when they saw him with a well covered head of dark hair. 
 
 A medical friend and I analysed the pomatum. On this cir- 
 cumstance being communicated to the late celebrated surgeon, 
 M. Dupuytren, he immediately concluded that the principle of 
 action of the pomatum was simple irritation, there being no 
 specific virtue for producing hair in the protochloride of copper, 
 the use of which he considered dangerous. He was aware that 
 a blister had often restored the hair to bald parts of the head, 
 
HOW TO RESTORE THE HAIR AND PREVENT BALDNESS. 19 
 
 and he, therefore, resolved to try a pomatum composed of strong 
 tincture of cantharides and hog's-lard, taking care that the patient 
 should be in the best possible state of health. In every case this 
 pomatum appeared successful ; but as its invention occurred only 
 a short time prior to the death of this eminent surgeon, it was 
 not followed up by the publication of any series of experiments. 
 Besides, baldness is much less common in France than among us, 
 and its prevention is not, therefore, a matter of such strong in- 
 terest. 
 
 The pomatum is made by mixing with hog's-lard, in the same 
 manner that rose-water is blended with the other fatty prepara- 
 tions in cold cream — that is, by long and energetic rubbing and 
 beating in a mortar — as much tincture of cantharides as the lard 
 will absorb. The tincture of cantharides must be made on pur- 
 pose ; and its strength triple that specified in the U. S. Pharma- 
 copoeia. When used, it should be rubbed twice a day on the bald 
 part during five or six minutes, and continued even after the head 
 becomes sore. During the period of its application, which should 
 last two weeks at least, the operations ot the toilette should be 
 carried on as usual with regard to the hair that remains upon the 
 head. If the bald part is covered during the day to conceal the 
 effect of the pomatum, a very light scalp, or a thin cap full ot 
 holes, shoul# be worn. But, generally speaking, it is far better 
 to leave the head uncovered, and remain out of sight during a 
 few weeks. If the skin of the head becomes so sore as to cause 
 considerable uneasiness, a very little cold cream may be rubbed 
 on it prior to going to bed. As the hair appears, the brush should 
 be constantly used, gently at first, and stronger as the irritation 
 caused by the ointment subsides. During this application, the 
 diet should be simple, very little wine or other fermented liquor 
 taken, and no ardent spirit in any form. The bowels should be 
 kept open by taking every morning, ten minutes before break- 
 fast, a drachm of Epsom salts, dissolved in half a pint of water. 
 Should the operation of this medicine become too great, it may 
 be discontinued for a day or two. 
 
 The above instructions, if strictly followed, will effect the cure 
 of baldness in most cases where the patient is not too far ad- 
 vanced in years. When the hair begins to disappear, its falling 
 off may be stopped and a proper tone given to the vessels that 
 
20 THE BEAKD, &C. 
 
 nourish it, by rubbing once or twice on the roots a little of the 
 above-described ointment of cantharides, subjecting it, at the 
 same time, to the proper and regular discipline of the toilette, 
 and attending to bodily health. 
 
 I believe there is no other mode of restoring the hair of the 
 head than the one I have described. It demands great care, and 
 will surely fail unless aided by temperance and cleanliness. 
 
 The causes of grey hair I have already explained. There is no 
 preventive for this loss of color other than to avoid as much as 
 possible those causes. When the coloring principle of the hair 
 has once ceased to flow, in never flows again. It is like a foun- 
 tain, the source of which is dried up. "When grey hairs exists, 
 therefore, in a young man, recourse must be had to dyes or washes. 
 When the hair begins to change, when its color goes in patches, 
 and so forth, procure from the perfumer's a preparation from the 
 husk of the walnut, called walnut water or eau crayon. This 
 will, by daily application, bring the hair to the tint you require, 
 without absolutely dyeing it. When the change of color has 
 gone on to a great extent, it is better to abandon the application, 
 and to put up with the change, which, in nine times out of ten, 
 will be in accordance with the change in the face. 
 
 The walnut^ water may be used for toning down red hair of a 
 fiery nature. 
 
 Ordinary dyes are prepared from such ingredients as nitrate of 
 silver, quicklime, sulphate of ammonia, &c. ; and as these are 
 extremely dangerous, and difficult of use, because of staining the 
 skin, we advise that, when used, a hairdresser should be called 
 in to apply them ; but it is far better not to use them. 
 
 THE BEABD, &C. 
 
 The style of the hair on the face should be governed by the 
 formation and contour of the face and head. The same style does 
 not become all persons. Whatever the style be, the principal 
 point is to keep it well brushed and trimmed, and avoid all ap- 
 pearance of wildness or inattention. The full flowing beard re- 
 quires more care and looking after in the way of cleanliness than 
 any other. It should be thoroughly washed and brushed twice a 
 day, as dust is certain to accumulate in it, and thus become ob- 
 jectionable to oneself as well as others. As a general thing it is 
 better to avoid the use of pomatums, oils,*&c., on the beard. 
 
HOW TO SHAVE. 21 
 
 TO PKOMOTE THE GROWTH OF THE BEARD. 
 
 Young men whose beards are backward in appearing, or 
 are thin and scraggy, may find much benefit by attention to the 
 following : 
 
 Shave the beard at least three times a week, and use the fol- 
 lowing as a stimulant — cologne 1 ounce, alcohol 1 pint, castor oil 
 £ pint, oil of cloves 20 drops, oil of bergamot 20 drops, tincture 
 of cantharides 2 ounces. 
 ♦ 
 
 HOW TO SHAVE. 
 
 The first thing to be obtained is a good set of razors, which 
 must, by practical experiment, be brought to fit the beard they 
 are to operate upon. The best razors are those purchased of a 
 cutler who has a reputation to preserve ; they should never be 
 obtained from a tradesman in another line ot business, who cares 
 not for his cutlery, which is made only a secondary branch of 
 trade. It may possibly happen that a very common and cheap 
 razor turns out good, nay, excellent ; but for one such, fifty are 
 bad. 
 
 A single pair of razors is not sufficient for the beard of a man, 
 whatever it may be for the incipient down on the chin of an over- 
 grown boy, whose object in shaving is t© obtain that sign oi man- 
 hood, which is frequently one of the most troublesome oi its 
 physical attributes. When a razor has been used for some time, 
 it will lose its keenness without any evident cause ; but il left 
 unused during a month or two, its fine edge will return without 
 any fresh setting or sharpening. No reason for this has yet been 
 assigned, though the fact is known to every barber in the coun- 
 try. Three or four pairs of razors should be kept in constant 
 use, and each razor brought into service not oftener than once in 
 seven, eight, or nine days. 
 
 It is no easy matter to set razors properly ; barbers and hair- 
 dressers, instead of imparting a fine edge, in most cases notch 
 and spoil them. When razors require settiug, they should be 
 sent to a cutler ; to the maker, in preference. Grinding should 
 never be resorted to ; a razor that requires such an operation is 
 fit for nothing. The art of making these instruments has been 
 brought to so great a degree of perfection, that, wbcn really good, 
 
22 HOW TO SHAVE. 
 
 they will scarcely ever require setting, if a proper razor-strop be 
 daily used. 
 
 There is some art in properly stropping a razor ; the blade 
 must be laid perfectly flat upon the strop, and drawn across from 
 heel to point ; it must be turned by resting the back on the strop, 
 and repeating the same operation on the other side of the blade, 
 and so on alternately until the edge is given. If the blade lie not 
 flat on the strop, the edge will be rounded, and the keenness di- 
 minished instead of increased ; this also occurs when the razor, 
 instead of being turned on the back, is turned on the edge. 
 
 I cannot advise whether it be best to shave with hot water or 
 with cold ; some beards are removed better with cold water, oth- 
 ers with hot. Neither can I say whether or not it be expedient 
 to dip the razor into hot water prior to shaving ; the expansion 
 of the metal by the hot water agrees with some beards, and dis- 
 agrees with others. Each individual must therefore act as his 
 experience dictates. In lathering, either a littrle lather may be 
 made in a shaving-box, or the face may be with the brush, the 
 soap rubbed upon it, and a lather raised by the brush upon the 
 face. These modes of lathering are all equally effective. But I 
 can add one recommendation which will facilitate easy shaving, 
 under all circumstances. When the beard is well lathered, the 
 soap should be washed off with either cold or warm water, accord- 
 ing as either is habitually used by the person shaving, and tho 
 face wiped with a towel ; the beard is then lathered a second time, 
 and the razor applied, previously dipped, or not, into hot water. 
 When^he shaving is over, the razor should be wiped upon very 
 soft linen, and well stropped. 
 
 Persons of tender skin suffer much from the operation of shav- 
 ing. The best thing I know to relieve the heat of the razor is a 
 little cold cream. 
 
 The beard, when of luxuriant growth, should be shaved every 
 morning, on rising. 
 
 THE TEETH. 
 
 There is no more attractive ornament to the handsome features 
 of a man or the lovely face of a woman, than a fine set of teeth ; 
 and there is no pain more acutely distressing than the tooth-ache. 
 
 " Keep your teeth perfectly clean" is the simple and all-im- 
 portant rule in respect to them. 
 
THE TEETH. 
 
 23 
 
 Unless this rule is strictly observed unpleasantness and evil are 
 sure to result — the teeth will be uncomfortable to yourself and 
 unsightly to others ; they will render your breath offensive, and 
 you will be taking the surest means to secure their early and rapid 
 decay. 
 
 The first step towards thorough cleanliness is to acquire a habit 
 of washing them after each meal. Instead of using a toothpick 
 —which is a disagreeable habit— on rising from table, retire and 
 scrub the teeth, with a soft brush and pure water ; this will re- 
 move particles of food, and give an agreeable feeling to the mouth. 
 
 The teeth should be cleaned every morning — and it is equally 
 important that the tooth-brush should be used at night before re- 
 tiring to rest ; this ought never to be omitted. 
 
 THE TEETH AND THEIR NERVES. 
 
 Avoid hard brushes ; they are injurious in every respect. Se- 
 lect those fine and soft, and with the hairs evenly and closely set. 
 Cheap tooth-brushes are a mistake. To make up for the softness 
 of the brush, use a little powder of some innocuous nature. It 
 matters little whether warm or cold water is used — except that 
 either extreme, warmth or coldness, is better avoided, as likely 
 to result in toothache. 
 
 Use the brush so that not only the outside of the teeth is white, 
 but the inside also ; many a beautiful mouth will not bear look- 
 ing into in this respect. 
 
24: 
 
 THE TEETH. 
 
 To keep the tooth-brush nice, adopt this plan: After use, 
 plunge it two or three times into a glass of fresh water, pressing 
 it against the sides, so as to get all traces of the powder out ; 
 after this, rub it quite dry on a towel, and put it aside. 
 
 On the slightest appearance of decay, it is best to go at once 
 to a dentist. 
 
 If a dark spot appears under the enamel, that is, an indication 
 of what is termed caries — neglect it, and the decay will eat in, 
 until it reaches the centre, and great agony is the sure result. 
 But if a dentist sees the tooth at the first stage, removes the de- 
 cayed part, and plugs the cavity in a proper manner, no further 
 mischief will result. 
 
 VERTICAL SECTION OP A TOOTH. 
 
 Tartar is not so easily dealt with, but it requires equally early 
 attention. It results from an impaired state of the general health 
 and assumes the form of a yellowish concretion on the teeth and 
 gums. 
 
 Not only should tartar be removed whenever it appears, but 
 frequent brushing and cleaning of the teeth should prevent its 
 
THE TEETH. 25 
 
 accumulation by not allowing it time to form, — a matter easy 
 enough if the teeth are properly attended to, and involving more 
 of minute attention than of actual trouble. 
 
 If tartar be suftered to accumulate upon the teeth — and it always 
 so accumulates in the absence of tooth-brushes and tooth-powder 
 — not only are they loosened and destroyed, but the gums also 
 are coroded and reduced to a state of disease frequently mistaken 
 for scurvy, even by medical men. I have seen several instances 
 of mortification of the gums, where it was necessary to remove 
 considerable pieces with the knife, arise solely from keeping the 
 teeth uncleaned, and thereby favoring the accumulatiou of tar- 
 tar. If this state of the teeth be allowed to continue, they are 
 all at length inevitably destroyed, leaving the gums in an un- 
 sightly condition, with no other remedy left but to incase them 
 in an artificial socket bearing a set of artificial teeth. 
 
 A dentist is always anxious to mako "a clean mouth," to effect 
 which the scaling instruments are mercilessly employed, if noth- 
 ing worse is done. The consequence of a first visit to a dentist 
 is sure to be a second, succeeded by a great many others. The 
 steel instruments are used on the most trivial occasions, dentif- 
 rices are given which ultimately destroy the enamel of the teeth, 
 and the visits to the dentist end in the necessity of artificial teeth, 
 
 which he of course supplies. 
 
 When the gums are not diseased, the tartar may be safely re- 
 moved by the following process, which requires only proper care 
 and attention. Those places where the concretion cannot be 
 reached by the individual party whose teeth require cleaning, may 
 be operated upon by another person. 
 
 A couple of sticks should be prepared about the size of small 
 skewers, and pointed at one end. They must be of the hardest' 
 and toughest wood that can be obtained. One should be quite 
 straight ; the other should terminate by a small rectangular hook. 
 The pointed extremity of the hook, as well as that of the straight 
 stick, should receive a small bit of muslin, which must be tied on 
 so as to end like a finely pointed pencil. When the tartar is to 
 be removed, place upon the table a saucer containing a little 
 muriatic acid ; on one side of it place a basin of water, on the 
 other a glass of water containing a dessert spoonful of spirits of 
 hartshorn. 
 
26 THE TEETH. 
 
 The patient must now be seated in a favorable position, unless 
 lie operate upon himself, when he must stand in a good light be- 
 fore a looking-glass. If the tartar be on the inside of the teeth, 
 the hooked stick is used ; if on the outside, the straight stick is 
 the operating instrument. 
 
 The point of the stick is dipped into the muriatic acid, then 
 immediately into the basin of water, where it remains a second. 
 On taking it out, a jerk is given to remove the hanging drop, and 
 the point of the instrument is rubbed upon the tartar, care be- 
 ing taken not to touch the enamel. When the tartar has been 
 rubbed a little, which will bring off part of it, the mouth should 
 be rinsed with the alkaline mixture in the tumbler. The stick is 
 then dipped again into the acid, then into the water, and some 
 more of the tartar got rid of. In a short time all the tartar will 
 be removed without violence or danger to the teeth. When once 
 these are freed from the concretion, care must be taken to pre- 
 vent it from again accumulating ; but if, in spite of all care, a 
 Bpeck appears which the brush and tooth-powder will not remove, 
 recourse must again be had to the muriatic acid process. 
 
 In this operation I must candidly admit that, if performed care- 
 lessly, the enamel of the teeth may suffer, though, when proper 
 attention is paid, there is not the slightest danger. The muriatic 
 acid, diluted as it is with water, if brought for a short time in 
 contact with the enamel, would corrode this substance, though 
 not so rapidly as it dissolves the tartar : the alkaline solution 
 must, therefore, be used very frequently, and the rubbing of the 
 tartar never prolonged beyond a few seconds. Besides this, there 
 must be upon the point of the stick no moisture that could run 
 off. If the tartar be not of long standing, it may be removed by 
 a more simple application of chlorine, which is the base of mu- 
 riatic acid. Let the point of the stick be dipped into the con- 
 centrated solution of disinfecting chloride of soda. In this case, 
 the stick need not be dipped in water except to wash it after each 
 rubbing, but the mouth should be frequently rinsed with alkaline 
 solution. The rubbing upon the tartar may, without danger, be 
 also considerably prolonged. 
 
 Washing the teeth with vinegar, when the brush is used, has 
 been recommended as a means of removing tartar. 
 
 About toothache, it is only necessary to point out that it results 
 
CAKE OF THE HANDS. 27 
 
 from various causes, and that, therefore, it is impossible to give 
 any general remedy for it. It may be occasioned by decay, by 
 inflammation of the membrane covering the fang, or the pain 
 may be neuralgic, or there may be other causes. 
 
 Relief in cases of decay may sometimes be obtained by the 
 application of a drop or two of cresote, saturating a particle of 
 wool, and thrust into the cavity with a needle. 
 
 Where there is inflammation, relief is often gained by applying 
 camphorated chloroform, to be procured at the druggist's ; this 
 has often succeded when laudanum and similar applications have 
 entirely failed. 
 
 Neuralgia can only be attacked by means of an aperient, fol- 
 lowed by doses of quinine or quinine pills. It often assails those 
 whose teeth are perfectly sound — affecting the nerves, and it is 
 always to be distinguised from the fact that the paroxysm's of 
 pain occur at regular intervals; quinine is the only effectual 
 remedy. 
 
 Tenderness of the gums, to which some persons are subject, 
 may sometimes be met by the use of salt and water, but it is well 
 to rinse the mouth frequently with water, with a few drops of 
 tincture of myrrh in it. 
 
 It may be added that foul breath, unless caused by neglected 
 teeth, indicates a deranged state of the system. When it is oc- 
 casioned by the teeth, or other local cause, use a gargle, consist- 
 ing of a spoonful of solution of chloride of lime in half a tumbler 
 of water. Gentlemen smoking, and thus tainting the breath, 
 may be glad to know that the common parsley has a peculiar effect 
 in removing the odor of tobacco. 
 
 CAKE OF THE HANDS. 
 
 It is most important that the general health, well-being, ana 
 cleanliness of the hands should be properly looked after — they 
 are so essential to our comfort, that anything that tends in any 
 way to interrupt their functions is especially inconvenient. 
 
 In the first place, the hands should be kept scrupulously clean, 
 and therefore should be very frequently washed — not merely rinsed 
 in soap and water, but thoroughly lathered, and scrubbed with a 
 soft nail-brush. In cold weather, tho use of lukewarm water is 
 
28 CARE OF THE HANDS. 
 
 unobjectionable, after which the hands should be dipped into cold 
 water, and very carefully dried on a fine towel. 
 
 Be careful always to dry the hands thoroughly, and rub them 
 briskly for some time afterwards ; not attending to this sufficient- 
 ly, causes the hands to chap, crack, and become red, 
 
 Should the hands chap, rub a few drops of honey over them 
 when dry, or anoint them with cold cream, or glycerine, before 
 retiring to rest. 
 
 Some people are afflicted with chillblains on the hands, which 
 are even more painful and difficult to cure than those on the feet. 
 The following remedy is highly recommended : — 
 
 Make a mixture consisting of a fluid-ounce of tincture of cap- 
 sicum, and a fluid- ounce of tincture of opium. Sew the fingers 
 in linen bandages, and dip them in the mixture twice or thrice a 
 day. For other remedies, see "Toilet Receipts." 
 
 Should you wish to make your hands white and delicate, you 
 might wash them in hot milk and water for a day or two. On 
 retiring to rest, rub them well over with some palm oil, and put 
 on a pair of woollen gloves. The hands should be thoroughly 
 washed with hot water and soap the next morning, and a pair of 
 soft leather gloves worn during the day ; they should be frequent- 
 ly rubbed together to promote circulation. 
 
 Sun-burnt hands may be washed in lime-water or lemon-juice. 
 Should they be severely freckled, the following may be used to 
 advantage: — 
 
 Take 1 pint of distilled water, sal ammoniac, J drachm, oxy- 
 muriate of quicksilver, 4 grains, divide the two last in spirit, and 
 gradually add the water to them ; add another \ pint of water, 
 mix well together, and it is ready for use. It should be applied 
 as often as desirable, by means of a piece of soft sponge ; if rose- 
 water is substituted for distilled water, the effect is pleasanter. 
 
 Warts, which are often more common with young people than 
 adults, are very unsightly, and are sometimes very difficult to get 
 rid of. The best plan is to buy a small stick of lunar caustic, 
 which is sold in a holder and case at the druggist's for the pur- 
 pose — dip it in water, and touch the wart every morning and 
 evening, care being taken to cut away the withered skin before 
 repeating the operation. 
 
THE T-JPET. 29 
 
 The whitlow is a very painful sort of abscess which frequently 
 forms on the inside of the finger. It is accompanied by much 
 inflammation and throbbing pain. Linseed meal poultices are 
 often applied, and the swelling has frequently to be lanced. It 
 is a complaint, however, to which surgical aid should be called 
 in wherever practicable. 
 
 THE FINGER NAILS. 
 
 Above everything keep the nails scrupulously clean. Nothing 
 is so repulsive as to see a lady or gentleman however well-dressed 
 they may otherwise be, with nails in a degree shady, so that you 
 are tempted to exclaim, in the language of the nursery poet : — 
 
 '• Did you ever behold such a little black row ?" 
 
 It alweys results from carelessness and inattention to the minor 
 details of the toilet, which is most reprehensible. 
 
 The nails should be pared about once a week— certainly not 
 oftener. This should be accomplished just after washing — the 
 nail being softer at such a time — by means of a sharp penknife. 
 Care should be taken not to cut them too short, though if they 
 are left too long they will frequently get torn and broken. They 
 should be nicely rounded at the corners. Recollect, the ' ' filbert- 
 shaped" nail is considered the most beautiful. 
 
 Never bite your nails ; it not only is a most vulgar and disgust- 
 ing habit, but tends to make the nails jagged, deformed, and diffi- 
 cult to clean, besides giving a red and stumpy appearance to the 
 finger tips. 
 
 Some people are troubled by the cuticle adhering to the nail as 
 it grows. This may be pressed down with the tow T el after wash- 
 ing, or should that not prove efficacious, it must be loosened round 
 the edge with some blunt instrument. 
 
 On no account scrape the nails with a view to polishing their 
 surface — such an operation only tends to make them wrinkled. 
 
 THE FEET. 
 
 The feet, from the circumstance of their being so much con- 
 fined by boots and shoes, and frequently perspiring, require more 
 care in washing than the rest of the body. 
 
 A tepid bath at about 80 or 00 degrees, should be used. The 
 feet may remain in the water about five minutes, and the instant 
 
30 THE FEET. 
 
 they are taken out they should be rapidly and thoroughly dried 
 by being well rubbed with a coarse towel. Sometimes bran is 
 used in the water. 
 
 Few things are more invigorating and refreshing after a long 
 walk or getting wet in the feet, than a tepid foot-bath, clean socks, 
 and a pair of easy shoes. 
 
 After the bath, too, is the time for paring the toe-nails, as they 
 
 are so much softer and more pliant after having been immersed 
 
 in hot water. 
 
 Moist Feet. — Some people are troubled with moist or damp 
 feet. This complaint arises more particularly during the hot 
 weather in summer time, and the greatest care and cleanliness 
 should be exercised in respect to it. Persons so afflicted should 
 wash their feet twice a day in soap and warm water, after which 
 they should put on clean socks. 
 
 Should not this effect a cure, they may, after being washed as 
 above, be rinsed and then thoroughly rubbed with a mixture con- 
 sisting of half a pint of warm water and three tablespoonfulls of 
 concentrated solution of chloride of soda. 
 
 An old receipt, which is not so simple as the foregoing, but 
 which is highly recommended, gives the following as a certain 
 cure : — " Take twenty pounds of ley, made of the ashes of the 
 bay tree, three handfuls of bay leaves, a handful of sweet flag, 
 with the same quantity of calamus aromaticus and dittany of 
 Crete. Boil all these ingredients together for some time, then 
 strain off the liquor, and add two quarts of port wine." The 
 best time for applying this lotion is at bedtime. 
 
 Blisters. — People who walk much are frequently afflicted with 
 blisters, and many are the plans adopted for their prevention. 
 Some soap their socks, some pour spirits in their shoes, others 
 rub their feet with glycerine. The great point, however, is to 
 have easy, well-fitting boots, and woollen socks. % 
 
 Should blisters occur, a very good plan is to pass a large dam_ 
 ing-needle, threaded with worsted, through the blister length, 
 wise, leaving an inch or so of the thread outside at each end. 
 This keeps the scarf-skin close to the true skin, and prevents any 
 grit or dirt entering ; the thread absorbs the matter and the 
 old skin remains till the new one grows. A blister skould not 
 be punctured save in this manner, as it may degenerate into a 
 sore, and become very troublesome. 
 
THE FEET. 31 
 
 Chilblains. — We have briefly referred to chilblains on the hands ; 
 those which appear on the feet are of a similar species. To avoid 
 them it is necessary to observe three rules : — 1. Avoid getting the 
 feet wet ; if they become so, change at the earliest opportunity. 
 2. Wear lambswool socks or stockings. 3. Never, under any 
 circumstances, " toast your toes" before the fire — especially if 
 you are very cold. Frequent bathing of the feet in a strong so- 
 lution of alum is useful in preventing the coming of chilblains. 
 
 On the first indication of any redness of the toes and sensation 
 of itching, it would be well to rub them carefully with warm 
 spirits of rosemary, to which a little turpentine has been added. 
 Then a piece of lint, soaked in camphorated spirits, opodeldoc, 
 or camphor liniment, may be applied and retained on the part. 
 
 Should the chilblain break^ it may be dressed twice daily with 
 a plaister made of the following ointment : — One ounce of hog's 
 lard, one ounce of bee's-wax, and half an ounce of oil of turpen- 
 tine ; melt these, and mix them thoroughly, spread on leather, 
 and apply immediately. 
 
 The Toe-nails. — These do not grow so fast as the finger-nail, 
 but they should be looked after and trimmed at least once a fort- 
 night. 
 
 The toe-nails, on account of their being so confined, are much 
 more subject to irregularity of growth than those on the finger. 
 The great toe should be especially looked after, as the nail thereof 
 has a great tendency to grow into the quick. This should be 
 remedied by bathing the feet in hot water ; pieces of lint are then 
 introduced beneath the parts with an inward tendency, and the 
 nail itself scraped longitudinally. In due time the nail will pro- 
 bably assume its proper course. 
 
 Pare the toe-nails squarer than those of the finger ; keep them 
 a moderate length — long enough to protect the toe, but not so 
 long as to cut holes in your stockings. 
 
 Always cut the nails, never tear them, as is too frequently the 
 practice. Be careful not to destroy the spongy substance below 
 the nails, as that is the great guard to prevent them growing into 
 the quick. 
 
 Corns. — The remedies for these evils are innumerable. There 
 is no doubt, however, that corns are the result of undue pressure 
 and friction. According to the old formula — ' ; Remove the cause, 
 
32 HOW TO DEVELOP, STRENGTHEN, 
 
 and the effect will cease." Bat how to remove it ? As a general 
 preventtive against corns, adopt the plan of having several pairs 
 of boots in constant use, and change every day. Each pair will 
 press on the feet in a different way. When the corn has asserted 
 itself, there is nothing better than to procure corn-plaisters of 
 felt from the druggist's, taking care that you cut the aperture in 
 them large enough to prevent any portion of them pressing on 
 the edges of the corn. Before long the corn will disappear. This 
 treatment will also be found of service in the case of soft corns 
 and bunions. 
 
 HOW TO DEVELOP, STRENGTHEN. AND INVIGORATE THE BODY. 
 
 Inharmony of development or deformity is simply the result 
 of a departure from, or violation of, Nature's laws. The dread 
 fiat of the Creator against sin has gone forth, and is unalterable. 
 If man will defy it, he must pay the penalty in his own person, 
 besides entailing sickness, misery, and premature death upon his 
 offspring, if he ever have any. When men were content with 
 simple forms of existence — when they enjoyed the necessaries of 
 life without either desiring the conveniences or pining for the 
 luxuries — vigorous health was the rule, rather than the exception, 
 among them ; but in an age when manly power and womauly 
 grace are rendered subservient to that ignis fatuus of the mind 
 which is vaguely and insufficiently described by the term pleasure, 
 despair and wretchedness are rife in the world, and imbecility and 
 hideousness stalk closely behind them. As a case in point, com- 
 pare the artificial existence of the modern epicure with that of 
 Nature's own son — the free, intrepid mountaineer. Not all the 
 artifices of the former can command the elasticity of spirit, the 
 freedom and lightness of limb, nor one half the pleasurable sen- 
 sations that are momentarily experienced by the latter. 
 
 The art of developing muscle and increasing bodily vigor ap- 
 pears to be inseparable, in the present age, from ropes and stakes, 
 and men remarkable for excessive hardness of organization and 
 peculiarity of visage. The most approved methods of imparting 
 health, tone, and beauty to the skin are practiced almost exclu- 
 sively in stables ; while the lean are excited to extreme envy by 
 the plumpness and beauty of proportion exhibited by some of the 
 lower animals under the care and training of men to whom iho 
 
AND INVIGORATE THE BODY. 
 
 33 
 
 chemistry of respiration and consumption of carbon are as dark 
 mysteries. 
 
 THE MUSCULAR SYSTEM. 
 
 The processes of waste and repair are continually progressing 
 in the system. Hufeland defines active life to bo " an incessant 
 exertion of agency and power ; and consequently attended with a 
 
34: HOW TO DEVELOP, STRENGTHEN, 
 
 continual waste of power and consumption of the organs." The 
 human body is reducible, like all other matter, to its elementary 
 principles ; it is constantly consuming and giving off these ele- 
 ments, and derives a renewal of the same from the nourishment 
 supplied to it, and the atmosphere by which it is surrounded. 
 
 Growth is an accumulation of the repairing material, owing to 
 a redundance of vital power. At maturity, the vital consump- 
 tion gradually balances the renovating power of the body ; and 
 when the former begins to exceed the latter, decay and death 
 finally set in. 
 
 When any particular limb, or the whole body, is put in motion, 
 an increase of waste in its substance immediately takes place, 
 followed, however, by a powerful reaction in the rest which suc- 
 ceeds this exertion, when the blood, which has been repeatedly 
 purified during the exercise by the exhalation of its noxious com- 
 pounds in perspiration, and by being exposed in the lungs at each 
 inspiration to the action of pure, fresh air, builds up the lost sub- 
 stance, and with the balance in hand adds good, sound material 
 for future use and exertion. 
 
 The more laborious the exertion, the greater the waste ; and 
 if the vital power be not considerably weakened by exhaustion or 
 fatigue, consequently renovation of the parts ensues. The black- 
 smith will develop a muscular arm sooner than if he were work- 
 ing with a smaller hammer in a carpenter's shop. 
 
 The states of reaction in favor of the renovating power after 
 exertion must follow in close and regular succession upon each 
 other to produce any marked effect upon development ; for the 
 daily consumption of the body never ceases for an instant, and 
 unless there is an excess of the repairing material over that of 
 waste, ematiation or loss of physical power and starvation will 
 be the inevitable result. 
 
 If one's occupation were to consist in wielding a heavy sledge 
 in the morning, and posturing in the evening, one might safely 
 count on the possession, in a short time, of well developed limbs. 
 Take, for example, the ponderous individual whom we have so 
 often seen in the circus, whose sole ambition in life seems to be 
 that of keeping a long pole, steadily balanced somewhere in his 
 waist- band for the special use and safety of his brother in the 
 profession who amuses the multitude at the smaller end of it 
 
AND INVIGORATE' THE BODY. 35 
 
 You will find that not only are his lower limbs and extremities 
 surprisingly developed, but his arms are brawny and his chest 
 broad and capacious beyond all conceivable proportion — a truly 
 fitting chest or case for the protection of stentorian lungs such as 
 you will also invariably discover that our friend of the pole pos- 
 sesses. His agile brother, on the other hand, would fail most 
 lamentably in the waistband particular, especially if his unwield- 
 ly compeer were to essay the swimming feat above ; but he can 
 turn out any number of Catherine wheels, and involve himself in 
 all sorts of difficulties with respect to his legs and hands ; and if 
 you could prevail upon him to preserve his natural posture for a 
 few moments — which he seems very loth to do in company — you 
 will perceive that the herculean development of limb and capaci- 
 ty of chest are wanting in him, but for both of which, perhaps, 
 he is amply compensated by a general buoyancy of frame person- 
 ally, and an external appearance that inspires one with a fabuloua 
 idea of whalebone, india-rubber, and patent springs. Every ona 
 is familiar with the vagaries of the vital force in the case of tailors, 
 shoemakers, and the trades generally ; that is, with reference to 
 bowed legs, sunken chests, overgrown muscles and calves, and 
 other peculiarities of growth incidental t& each,; these are all 
 owing to the position of the limbs during their action, or rather 
 to the repeated processes of repair of the parts actually exercised 
 in their exact form or disposition at the time. 
 
 " Training''' is a method of exercising the limbs and muscles 
 with prescribed force, and in a systematic regular manner, th^ 
 states of reaction in favor of the renovating power succeeding 
 each other with such rapidity that there is always an excess of 
 power over and above that which is required to meet the con- 
 sumption, and increased growth or development of the parts is 
 thereby induced. 
 
 Inharmony of development or deformity proceeds from an 
 abuse of Nature's laws. Repeated excess exhausts the vital force, 
 weakens muscular power and nervous energy, and gives an un- 
 due advantage to the consnmption of the body, the operations of 
 which are never idle, and if not kept down by vitality, rapidly 
 merge into decay. 
 
 Muscular power produced by forced training is purchased at 
 the expense of general vitality. Excessive exertion has tne effect 
 
36 HOW TO DEVELOPE, STRENGTHEN, 
 
 of exhausting the vitalnpower like any other excess. Moderate 
 exercise of bodily organs, on the other hand, strengthens them, 
 and preserves them from decay. Exercise of the whole frame is 
 more conducive to health than that of particular limbs. 
 
 The health and vigor of the several limbs and organs of the 
 body depend solely upon the simple condition that the functions 
 which pertain to each shall be regularly and actively performed. 
 Life, while it lasts, is the regular, incessant motion of the vital 
 organs in their work of assimilation, secretion, excretion, reno- 
 vation, etc. Exercise may be denned as voluntary motion of the 
 limbs and muscles, and in thought of the nerves, which increases 
 the power of the involuntary vital principle as well. If this vol- 
 untary motion be neglected, the vital force becomes inactive in a 
 corresponding degree, and loss of physical vigor is the inevitable 
 result. 
 
 A man who would resolutely set to work with a set of dumb- 
 bells and chest expander, and an average stock of patience would 
 in six months reap a golden harvest of health and strength for 
 his exertions. Men readily combine business with pleasure. 
 Why not reserve a portion of leisure for private training to take 
 the harm out of both ? 
 
 BENEFICIAL EFFECTS OF EXERCISE. 
 
 W Exercise equalizes circulation and accelerates the action of the 
 heart. Running, jumping, and violent exertion of every kind 
 n6t only increase the action of the heart, but also its propelling 
 force ; under the effect of fitful, violent, bodily motion, the blood 
 is diffused throughout the minutest capillaries of the system, and 
 rushes through the veins and arteries with a force akin somewhat 
 to the impetuosity of a mill-stream. The quantity of blood in an 
 average-sized adult may be taken at about four gallons — or be- 
 tween 28 or 30 pounds — the complete circulation of which is ef- 
 fected in 300 contractions of the heart. The pulse usually beats 
 from 70 to 75 per minute. Walking at the rate of four miles per 
 hour has been found to increase it from 75 to 130, and carrying a 
 load of 140 lbs., at a speed of three miles per hour, to 190 beats 
 \ per minute. 
 
 Exercise powerfully induces sensible perspiration. What is 
 termed insensible perspiration is imperceptibly taking place at all 
 
AND INVIGORATE THE BODY. 
 
 37 
 
 times in the body. During vigorous exercise it becomes sensible 
 
 or visible, and may be seen exuding from the pores in every part 
 of the skin. 
 
 Perspiration contains at least one per cent, of solid matter com- 
 pounded of substances noxious to life. The quantity perspired 
 daily by an average-sized adult ranges from 25 to 35 ounces. If 
 exercise be neglected, the poisonous matter can only be partly 
 carried away from the blood by the insensible perspiration through 
 the medium of the lungs, liver, kidneys and bowels, which, it is 
 hardly necessary to observe, imposes additional labor uponlihese 
 organs, and eventually occasions their disease. 
 
 A SWEAT GLAND, 
 
 A verticle section of the sole of the foot, a, the cuticle or 
 scarf skin, the deeper layers of which, dark in color being called 
 the rete mucosum. b, the Papillas, c, the cutes or true skin, and 
 d is the sweat gland in a cavity of oily globules. 
 
38 HOW TO DEVELOP, STRENGTHEN, 
 
 Exercise materially aids in the purification of the blood. Ins 
 circulation, as we have seen, becomes rapid in proportion to the 
 violence of bodily motion. The blood, when it arrives in the 
 lungs, after coursing through the body, ia of a dark color, having 
 been deprived of its oxygen during the operation. It receives a 
 fresh supply of this life-giving principle from the atmosphere — 
 the purity of the latter depending in a great measure upon the 
 amount of oxygen which it contains — and this combining with 
 certain of its constituents has the effect of changing it to a bright, 
 florid hue, in which pure, healthy state it is distributed again 
 throughout the whole arterial system, to build up and repair on 
 every side the ravages occasioned by daily waste or disease. 
 
 Walking, — The blood of the pedestrian whose speed amounts 
 to five miles an hour is completely purified and circulated every 
 „ two minutes, while during moderate exercise this time is extend- 
 ed to two minutes and a half, and when the body is in a passive 
 state, to about four minutes. 
 
 Strength will be gained, and the contour of our body improved 
 by firm, hard muscles overlaying and hiding the bones, if a due 
 amount of exercise be taken. 
 
 Exercise will gradually almost unconsciously give tone and 
 vigor to the circulation, plumpness to the form, and steadiness 
 and grace to the whole carriage. Big, round, beautiful muscles 
 are produced by vigorous and continuous activity of every part 
 of the physical man. 
 
 Exercise powerfully stimulates the several functions of the body 
 and brain. 
 
 "Walking, Dr. Erasmus Wilson says, favors digestion and nutri- 
 tion, facilitates respiration, stimulates the skin and promotes its 
 action, increases the temperature of the body, and invigorates 
 V the physical and mental powers. 
 ^ If exercise is customary and habitual, it will maintain the cir- 
 culation in healthful equilibrium. The muscles have their sub- 
 stance used up while they are being employed in vigorous con- 
 traction ; but in the intervals of rest they will grow, enlarging 
 by an excess of gain over loss, because blood is circulating 
 through them, out of which they may appropriate the material 
 of muscular tissue. So that it will not be only while we are tak- 
 ing exercise that we shall be equalizing the circulation, and de- 
 
AND INVIGORATE - THE BODY. 39 
 
 riving the benefits which attend that condition — we shall live 
 through the day, and sleep through the night, under this prime 
 condition of comfort and health ; while we rest we shall bo grow- 
 ing more fit for greater exertions. The exercise which fatigued 
 at first will not be enough to satisfy us. as we get stronger and 
 larger muscles. 
 
 BATHING. 
 
 Bathing and exercise are very closely allied to each other ; they 
 both stimulate the actions of the skin, and both, if carried too 
 far, are productive of faticfue. Bathing, again, is indebted to ex- 
 ercise for some of its useful properties. In like manner, the rules 
 of bathing and those of exercise are very similar. Bathing, to 
 be efficient in preserving health, should be regular, should be 
 commenced by degrees, and increased by a process of training, 
 and should not be permitted to intrude upon hours devoted to 
 some important function, such as digestion. It must not ap- 
 proach too near a meal, that is to say, if it be attended by the 
 least fatigue ; nor must it follow a meal too closely, three or four 
 hours being permitted to elapse. . The time occupied in bathing 
 in cold water by invalids should not exceed a few minutes, but 
 ranging perhaps from two to ten ; but persons in health may 
 carry it to the point of satiety, provided always that they com- 
 bine with it active exercise. The period for the tepid, warm, or 
 vapor bath is from a quarter to half an hour, unless special in- 
 dications require to be fulfilled. 
 
 They who desire to pass the short time of life in good health, 
 ought often to use cold bathing, for I can scarce express in words 
 how much benefit may be had by cold baths ; for they who use 
 them, although almost spent with old age, have a strong and 
 compact pulse, and a florid color in their face ; they arc very ac. 
 live and strong, their appetite and digestion are vigorous, their 
 senses are perfect and exact ; and in one word they have all their 
 natural actions well performed. 
 
 The effect of a warm bath to a person in health is highly de- 
 lightful. The sensations during the process are exquisite, and 
 afterwards no less so. It equalizes the circulation of the blood ; 
 renders tho skin supple and moist ; promotes free perspiration, 
 and relieves the body from a layer of thick, obstructive accumu- 
 
40 
 
 HOW TO ACQUIEE BEAUTY 
 
 lation ot scurf and oleaginous surfacial deposit. The flexibility 
 of the joints, the freedom of respiration, the improved tone of 
 nervous feeling in mind and body, intellect being brighter and 
 every faculty livelier — memory, thought, and idea at command, 
 after the baths — are notorious truths known to the patron of the 
 warm ablution. Warm bathing also acts beneficially on the kid- 
 neys and urinary organs ; it helps the bowels, and stomach, and 
 liver, giving new life to each, the action of each being hereby 
 healthily excited ; it cousequently promotes digestion, and con- 
 trary to the popular fear of a warm bath weakening, it in reality 
 strengthens the system, and fortifies it against cold. 
 
 PORES AND PAPILLA OF THE SKIN. 
 
 On the left is a magnified view of the ridges of the cuticle as seen in the 
 palm of the hand, with the openings of the pores in their furrows. On the 
 right, the cuticlo has been removed, leaving corresponding rows of Papilla}. 
 
 HOW TO ACQUIEE BEAUTY AND FRESHNESS OF COMPLEXION. 
 
 ' Beauty of complexion depends upon the state of the pigment- 
 ary tint, which is secreted, by the scarf skin (cuticle epidermis.) 
 
 On the degree of thickness or transparency of the scarf skin 
 of the face, and the regular, faultless formation of the new granules 
 Waich are being continually deposited (in a laminated formj to 
 replace the old, worn-out particles of matter on its surface. 
 
 On an agreeable warmth of the body and skin, by which a due 
 
AND FRESHNESS OF COMPLEXION. 41 
 
 amount of circulating nutrient blood, of a bright florid hue, is 
 secured in the minutest capillaries of the face. 
 
 And lastly, upon a healthy state of the whole system. 
 
 The scarf skin or outer covering of the body is composed of a 
 number of layers, made up of particles of matter, which gradu- 
 ally develop themselves into cellules of a polygonal form, a natu- 
 ral pigment or coloring matter that determines complexion being 
 incorporated with these elementary granules. The cellules, or 
 rather scarf cells, become dried up, and under the effect of daily 
 friction and ablution fall off in thin scales, their place being sup- 
 plied by a new layer, which has undergone the same processes of 
 
 development and growth. 
 
 In the European, the coloring pigment is almost white, except 
 
 under exposure to the sun, when it assumes a light brown color, 
 and ranges from the blonde type, remarkabl e for white skin, fair 
 hair, and blue or light colored eyes, to that of the brunette with 
 brown skin, black hair, and dark eyes. In the negro it is black ; 
 and the intermediate shades of color which may be observed in 
 the different races of mankind, are referable to the depth of hue 
 of the particles or granules which enter into the composition of 
 the cells of the scarf skin. 
 
 Vigorous friction and frequent ablution wear away the outer 
 surface of the scarf skin, and increase sensibility in proportion 
 as the latter becomes attenuated and less thick. 
 
 The processes of waste and renovation are continually taking 
 place, and, as wo have observed, new granules are deposited to 
 supply the place of the old ones. These granules conform close- 
 ly in their growth with the extraneous particles of matter on the 
 surface ; so that if the perspiration exuded from the pores, and 
 other impurities which are apt to accumulate upon the outside of 
 the skin, are allowed to remain there, they will form coarsely and 
 irregularly. The skin should therefore be kept free from impuri- 
 ty by frequent washing, in order that it may take that fresh trans- 
 parent form which constitutes the whole of facial^ beauty. In 
 those who bathe often, especially after having perspired freely, 
 the skin becomes soft, smooth, and blooming for this very reason. 
 
 Exercise equalizes circulation by diffusing the blood equally 
 through the system. Under the influence of cold, and depress- 
 ing mental emotion, this blood is repulsed inward to the larger 
 vital organs, producing pallor. 
 
42 HOW TO ACQUIRE BEAUTY 
 
 The presence of bright red blood in the capilliaries of the face, 
 is due to an agreeable warmth or temperatue of the body, wheth- 
 er occasioned by stimulants within, or irritating causes such as 
 friction, artificial heat, &c, from without. This is why redness 
 of complexion follows exertion, friction, and liberal feeding, inas- 
 much as they generate more or less heat in the system. 
 
 If exercise be taken regularly, in conjunction with daily friction 
 and ablution of the skin, the latter will always present that fresh, 
 blooming appearance, that is indicative of health and beauty. 
 
 Dr. Erasmus Wilson observes, that "the yellow tints of dis- 
 pepsia and jaundice are due to admixture of the coloring matter 
 of bile with blood. Purpleness or blueness of the skin always 
 depends on some cause of retardation of the cutaneous circula- 
 tion, (and that) all the phenomena of color of the skin, excepting 
 that which is due to its pigment, are referable to the quantity, 
 velocity, or composition of the blood flowing through its capil- 
 laries. 
 
 The celebrated Diana, the French beauty of Poictiers, pre- 
 served her beauty to an advanced age by merely observing tho 
 following rules: 
 
 1. She was jealously careful of her health. 
 
 2. Bathed in cold water in the severest weather. 
 
 3. She suffered no cosmetic to approach her. 
 
 4. Rose at six o'clock, sprang into the saddle, and galloped 
 about six miles, when she returned, breakfasted, went about her 
 duties, and amused herself by reading. 
 
 The system appears a singular one, but in her case it was un- 
 doubtedly successful, as she still reigned in absolute sovereignty 
 over the heart of the king of France when she was nearly sixty 
 years of age. 
 
 HOW TO ACQUIRE PLUMPNESS OP POEM, &C. 
 
 The deposition of fit in the human frame depends upon the 
 disproportion between the quantity of carbon and hydrogen in 
 the food, and that of the oxygen absorbed by the skin and lungs ; 
 that is, so much of this carbon as remains ^unconsumed — abovo 
 what is needful for respiration — is stored away as fat. 
 
 From the age of twenty up to that of forty years, a male burns 
 
AND FRESHNESS OF COMPLEXION. 43 
 
 about ten ounces of carbon in the twenty-four hours. From forty 
 to sixty, it decreases to about seven and a half ounces. 
 
 To compensate for this waste of carbon (10 oz.,) such articles 
 of food should be selected as afford the greatest quantity of it. 
 
 Oleaginous food contains about four-fifths of its own weight 
 
 of carbon. Under this head may be enumerated suet, fat, oil, 
 
 and butter. 
 
 Milk or curd, gluten, bread, oatmeal, meat, jelly, &c, from two 
 
 fifths to three-fifths of carbon. 
 
 Sugar, and the substances which are allied to it, gum, starchy 
 vegetables, and the various juices, fibers, and tissues of plants, 
 about two-fifths of their own weight. 
 
 Dietaries may be based upou the above data containing a great 
 quantity of carbon or the reverse, whether muscle or fat be the 
 idol set up. The weight of the body undoubtedly bears a marked 
 relation to, and increases proportionately with, its height. 
 
 On the authority of Dr. Hutchinson, "at five feet one, the 
 weight is (or should be) one hundred and twenty pounds. For 
 every inch of stature, from five feet one to five feet four, it in- 
 creases 6 1-5 lbs. ; from five feet four to five feet seven, about 3^- 
 lbs. ; and from five feet seven to six feet, G^- lbs. for every inch 
 of height." 
 
 Too much importance can not be attached to the quality, quan- 
 tity, and kind of food we use. No one can long possess good 
 health, or regain it when lost, who habitually disregards attend- 
 ing to these matters. Much discrimination and judgment is need- 
 ed, to use the proper food in its proper season. In summer wo 
 need food chiefly for strength and nourishment. In winter, we 
 need food to give us warmth ; food in which there is much car-* 
 bon, as butter, sugar, and fat meats. 
 
 For convenience, three tables are given with articles of food 
 ranged according to their nerve, muscle, and heat-producing 
 power, which, after what has been said above, must be of signifi- 
 cance to the most ordinary observer. The parts not included in 
 the three elements indicated, are water and waste. 
 
 BEAIN AND NEEVE-PEODUCTNG- FOODS. 
 
 Phosnhorus, I Phosphorus. 
 
 Parts in 100. Parts in 100, 
 
 Salmon 7 Bacon £ 
 
 Smelt * 6 Oysters £ 
 
 Lobster, herring, and cheese. . . 5 Southern corn, beans, and barley 4 
 
 Eel and trout 4 Oatmeal, peas, sweet potatoes . . 3 
 
 TThitensh, chicken, pigeon, eggs, Wheat and rye, (the whole grain) 2 
 
 venison, figs, and prunes 3 Northern corn, apples, cherries, 
 
 Beef, mutton, and codfish 2 cow's milk 1 
 
u 
 
 A SURE GUIDE TO PERFECT HEALTH. 
 
 MUSCLE-MAKING FOODS 
 
 ^Nitrogen, 
 Parts in 100. 
 
 Southern corn 34 
 
 Cheese 30 
 
 Peas 26 
 
 Beans 24 
 
 Game fowl 23 
 
 Mutton an d chickens^ 21 
 
 Yenison and Salmon 20 
 
 Beef 19 
 
 Halibut 13 
 
 Smelt, eel, trout, codfish, oat- 
 meal, eggs 17 
 
 White-fish 16 
 
 Kitrogen, 
 Parts in 100. 
 
 Wheat 15 
 
 Lobster 14 
 
 Rye 13 
 
 Oysters, barley, Northern corn, 
 
 clam '. 12 
 
 Bacon, herring, buckwheat 8 
 
 Apples, rice, tigs, cow's milk 5 
 
 Prunes 4 
 
 Sweet potatoes 2 
 
 Common potatoes, cabbage, cur- 
 rants, cherries \ 
 
 KESPIBATOKY OR HEAT-PEODUCINQ FOODS. 
 Carbon, 
 
 Parts in 100. 
 
 Hog's lard* 79 
 
 Rice 78 
 
 Butter 65 
 
 Rje 73 
 
 Northern corn 63 
 
 Wheat 67 
 
 Bacon 62 
 
 Buckwheat 60 
 
 Pigs... 58 
 
 Oat meal 51 
 
 Peas 41 
 
 Southern corn and beans .40 
 
 Eggs 30 
 
 Carbon, 
 Parts in 100 
 
 Cheese 28 
 
 Sweet potatoes . .*. .22 
 
 Prunes and cherries 20 
 
 Potatoes 16 
 
 Beef and mutton 14 
 
 Apples and peas 10 
 
 Yenison, cow's milk 8 
 
 Cabbage, currants 6 
 
 Onions, asparagus 5 
 
 Herring eel, cream 4 
 
 Chicken, pigeon, clam, cucumb's 2 
 Salmon, smelt, trout, codfish, 
 halibut 1 
 
 Liebig defines health to be a perfect equilibrium of all the func- 
 tions of the body — where the balance been waste and supply is 
 faithfnlly kept up — so that when in health and at maturity no 
 diminution or increase in weight is observed." If emaciation be 
 disease, so also is corpulence. Liebig has shown us how to get 
 fat — or rather that increase of carbon will cause fatness, inasmuch 
 as fat is carbon — and Banting, how to get thin ; what more can 
 mankind wish ? We shall look with hopeful anxiety for that day 
 when every man will be either fed up, or reduced to his proper 
 standard of weight. 
 
 Let us, however, recur to lean people, and give them a recipe 
 to increase their flesh, as remarkable for its simplicity as it would 
 seem to be certain in its effect. When Captain Grarit was on his 
 journey to discover the source of the Nile, he entered the coun- 
 try of Rumaniker, an African sovereign, who was himself tail, 
 handsome, and slender, and who rejoiced in the possession of five 
 wives. These ladies were all queens, who, with his female rela- 
 tives, fed upon milk. The consequence of this dietary was, that 
 they became fattened to enormous sizes, and when seen in motion, 
 
A SURE GUIDE TO PERFECT HEALTH. 45 
 
 their excessive obesity obliged them to be supported on either 
 side by a friend — the flesh of their arms hanging down in a flab- 
 by mass, like the widest of fashionable sleeves. They were drilled 
 from their infancy to suck at milk. Here, then, is certainly one 
 of the simplest, and probably of the most effective, recipes that 
 can be given for rescuing thin people from hungry looks. 
 
 A SUKE GUIDE TO PEEFECT HEALTH. 
 
 Rise early. Wash the entire person in the morning. Vigorous 
 friction of the face, neck, feet, and hands, and of the whole body, 
 after the daily bath. This may be done with the hands, and by 
 using a moderately coarse towel. 
 
 It is better to wash carefully and with energy on rising, that 
 the impurities which have collected upon the surface of the skin 
 during the night — for when the body is at rest, renovation is 
 most active — may be entirely washed away. 
 
 On rising, and before bedtime, the whole body, while undressed, 
 should be rubbed with the naked hands for about five or ten 
 minutes, until a regular glow is produced. This, in addition to 
 
 the friction after the bath. 
 
 A tepid bath should be taken daily by invalids ; the best time 
 
 will be in the afternoon. 
 
 Use the methods of breathing with the chest expanding and 
 
 dumb-bell exercises at the following periods of the day : 
 
 1. In the morning, before breakfast. — Methods of breathing. 
 
 2. Before dinner. — Chest-expander and dumb-bells. 
 
 3. Before tea-time. — Ohest-expander and dumb-bells. 
 
 4. Before retiring to rest. — Chest-expander, bells, and breath- 
 ing. 
 
 Put on clothes immediately after exercising, and avoid cold 
 draughts of air. 
 
 Breakfast, according to taste — mutton chop or beefsteak, corn 
 
 bread, butter, and milk ; but one need not restrict one's self to 
 these. The lean are urgently advised to select such articles of 
 as shall furnish them with the largest quantum of carbon, and at 
 dinner especially to make a free use of bread and vegetables. 
 This will assuredly lay the foundation, if anything will, of a good 
 constitution. It may be remarked, by the way, that the notes on 
 plumpness of form have been written solely for the comfort and 
 consolation of the lean of humanity. 
 
46 
 
 TOILET RECEIPTS. 
 
 Open your window from six to ten inches at top and bottom at 
 night, and throw it open in the morning to purify the room thor- 
 oughly. Every sleeping-room ought to have an open fireplace 
 in it, through which to ventilate it. 
 
 Kinse the mouth, and clean the teeth with a brush, a very little 
 fine toilet soap, in soft water, on rising and before bedtime. Use 
 a quill for a tooth-pick. This will keep them white, and preserve 
 them from decay. 
 
 Avoid abuses that affect the nervous system. Use no tobacco 
 nor alcoholic stimulants ; for the frame suiters from every excess, 
 no matter how slight it may be, sooner or later. 
 
 Go to bed early, after your devotions, and don't think when 
 once under the clothes. If you have abstained from stimulants, 
 and have exercised moderately during the day, you will surely 
 sleep well at night. Wash the face and hands before retiring to 
 rest, for it has the effect of calming the mind and inducing healthy 
 repose. 
 
 If you are desirous of seeking health and vigor, make rules 
 
 for your own guidance with respect to dietary, bathing, and ex- 
 ercise, and keep them as religiously as if they were laws. Above 
 all, cultivate trust in Providenee, and perseverance. Habits once 
 formed are mental bands of iron that take years and years of labor 
 to saw asunder. Kemember that that the physiological laws of 
 life and health are God's laws, and muni be obeyed. 
 
 Toilet Receipts. 
 
 THE GOLDEN-HAIE SECEET. 
 
 The rage for light, gold-color, or even red hair, which has pre- 
 vailed for some time, has led to various expedients for procuring 
 it. Many ladies have sacrificed fine heads of hair, and in place 
 of their own dark tresses have adopted light wigs ; but the pre- 
 vailing absurdity has been the use of strong alkalies for the pur- 
 pose of turning t. : e dark hair light. This is the purpose of the 
 auricomus fluid, a .-Inch may be procured of any hair-dresser; but 
 we warn our fair rea&ers that the use of these products is apt to 
 be disappointing. They certainly will turn black to a brickdust 
 hue, but the color is often disagreeable ; it is apt to present itself 
 in patches of different hues, and the effect on the hair is terrible, 
 it often rots and crumbles away. In place of this absurd prac- 
 tice, we recommend the following as available for trying the effect 
 
TOILET EECEIPTS. 47 
 
 at a ball or other entertainment — for dress purposes, in short: — 
 Procure a packet of gold powder of the hair-dresser. Have ready 
 a very weak solution of gum and water, and one of the small per- 
 fume vaporizers now in use. When the hair his been dressed, 
 sprinkle it with the gum-water, by means of the vaporizer, and 
 then shower on the gold powder. It may be put on thick enough 
 to hide the color of the hair, and, owing to the gum, cannot be 
 danced oif. 
 
 BLOOM OF ROSES. 
 
 This is a preparation of carmine for the face and lips. Take J 
 of a drachm of the carmine and place it in a phial with \ a drachm 
 of liquid ammonia ; keep for a few days, occasionally shaking 
 the mixture. Then dilute with two ounces of rose-water, to 
 which \ a drachm of essence of roses has been added. Draw off, 
 and keep a week or ten days ; then apply with the corner of a 
 soft handkerchief, taking care that if the color is too bright it is 
 reduced by means of pure water. 
 
 MILK OP LOSES. 
 
 This is a cosmetic. Pound an ounce of almonds in a mortar 
 very finely ; then put in shavings of honey soap in a small quan- 
 tity. Add enough rose-water to enable you to work the composi- 
 tion with the pestle into a fine cream ; and in order that it may 
 keep, add to the whole an ounce of the spirits of wine, by slow 
 degrees. You may scent with otto of roses. Strain through mus- 
 lin. Apply to the face with a sponge or a piece of lint. 
 
 CIRCASSIAN CREAM. 
 
 This celebrated preparation is made, according to a published 
 receipt, in this way : — Castor oil, one pint ; almond oil, four 
 ounces ; liq. potaase, three drachms ; essence of bergamot, oil 
 of cloves, and oil of lemon, in equal quantities ; and about a 
 dozen drops of otto of roses. 
 
 TOILET VINEGAR. 
 
 Add to the best malt vinegar half a pint of cognac and a pint 
 of rose-water. Scent may be added ; and if so, it should be first 
 mixed with the spirit, before the other ingredients are put in. 
 
48 TOILET RECEIPTS. 
 
 PHILOCOME. 
 
 This is the name of an admired French pomade. It is made 
 by melting three ounces of white wax, by the action of hot water 
 round the vessel ir> which it is placed, and while the heat «is kept 
 up, adding a pound of olive oil. Scents, such as bergamot, may 
 be added as the other ingredients cool. Varieties of perfumes 
 are secured by the manufacturers. 
 
 WASHES FOB THE FACE. 
 
 We do not approve of face- washes ; but as some ladies will use 
 them, we recommend the following as harmless : — Damp the face 
 with glycerine, tempered with rose-water, then powder with the 
 finest magnesia. It imparts a charming whiteness. 
 
 Less harmless, but more frequently used, is the following : — 
 Procure five cents of bismuth, of flake white, and of pow- 
 dered chalk. Mix with five cents of rose-water. Great care 
 must be taken to wash off this preparation before retiring to rest, 
 as the bismuth is of a poisonous nature. 
 
 LAVENDER WATER. 
 
 This mildest of perfumes is a preparation of oil of lavender, 
 two ounces ; and orris-root, half an ounce ; put it into a pint of 
 spirits of wine, and keep for two or three weeks before it is used. 
 It may require straining through blotting-paper of two or three 
 thicknesses. 
 
 BANDOLINE. 
 
 This essential of the toilet is prepared of several materials. 
 
 1. Simmer an ounce of quince seed in a quart of water for 
 forty minutes ; strain, cool, add a few drops of scent, and bot- 
 tle, corking tightly. 
 
 2. Take of gum Tragacanth H drs., water, half a pint ; recti- 
 fied spirits mixed with an equal quantity of water, three ounces, 
 and a little scent. Let the mixture stand for a day or two, then 
 strain. 
 
 3. It may be made of Iceland moss, a quarter of an ounce 
 boiled in a quart of water, and a little rectified spirit added, so 
 that it may keep. 
 
TOILET RECEIPTS. 49 
 
 HAIR CURLING FLUID. 
 
 There are various fluids advertised and recommended for the 
 purpose of giving straight hair a tendency to curl ; but the only 
 curling fluid of any service is a very weak solution of isinglass, 
 which will hold the curl in the position in which it is placed, if 
 care is taken that it follows the direction in which the hair natu- 
 rally falls. 
 
 One of the fluids in use is made by dissolving a small portion 
 
 of bees'-wax in an ounce of olive oil, and adding scent according 
 
 to taste. 
 
 LIP salve. 
 
 This indispensable adjunct to the toilet may be made by melt- 
 in a jar placed in a basin of boiling water a quarter of an ounce 
 each of white wax and spermaceti, flour of benzoin fifteen grains, 
 and half an ounce of oil of almonds. Stir till the mixture is cool. 
 Color red with five cents of alkanet root. 
 
 RYE TOOTH POWDER. 
 
 Eye contains carbonate of lime^carbonate of magnesia, oxide 
 of iron, manganese, and silica, all suitable for application to the 
 teeth. Therefore a fine tooth-powder is made by burning rye, 
 or rye bread, to ashes, and grinding it to powder by passing the 
 rolling pin over it. Pass the powder through a sieve and use. 
 
 The crumb of a French roll, though not so good, may be treat- 
 ed in the same way. 
 
 CAMPHORATED CHALK. 
 
 i This favorite tooth-powder is easily made. Take a pound of 
 prepared chalk, and with this mix two drachms of camphor very 
 finely powdered, and moistened with spirits of wine. Thorough- 
 ly mix. 
 
 MYRRH DENTIFRICE. 
 
 To a pound of finely-powdered cuttlefish add two ounces of 
 myrrh, and mix thoroughly. 
 
 WRINKLES. 
 
 The pomade d'Hebe, used for the removal of wrinkles, is made 
 in this way. Melt white wax, one ounce, to gentle heat, and add 
 
50 TOILET KECEIPTS. 
 
 juice of lily bulbs two ounces, and honey two ounces, rose water 
 two drachms, and otto of roses a drop or two. Use twice a day. 
 
 ROSE WATER. 
 
 It may be made in this way : — Take half an ounce of powdered 
 white sugar, and two drachms of magnesia. "With these mix 
 twelve drops of otto of roses. Add a quart of water and two 
 ounces of alcohol, mixed in a gradual manner, and filter through 
 blotting paper. 
 
 TO CLEAN KID GLOVES. 
 
 By rubbing gloves with a clean cloth, dipped in milk and then 
 rubbed on brown Windsor soap, you may restore them to a very 
 fair state of cleanliness. 
 
 TO REMOVE SUPERFLUOUS HAIRS. 
 
 Depilatories are all more or less objectionable. Even when 
 successful they are apt to produce a shiny, disagreeable appear- 
 ance of the skin. The use of tweezers is the only satisfactory 
 plan. Pluck out the hairs as fast as they grow, wash with warm 
 water, and then apply milk of^oses. Hairs are aometimes re- 
 moved by the application of muriatic acid, but it is a process 
 hazardous to the safety of the skin. The following is one of the 
 best depiliatories known : — Take quicklime, two ounces ; strong 
 ashes of wormwood, two fluid ounces, and almond powder suffi- 
 cient to make the whole into a pomatum, which is to be put on 
 the skin whence the hairs are to be removed, and wiped off in a 
 few seconds with a wet towel. If left on too long, the skin will 
 be irritated. 
 
 COLD CREAM. ' 
 
 Put into a jar a pint of sweet oil, half an ounce of spermaceti, 
 and two ounces of white wax. Melt in a jar by the fire ; add 
 scent, p 
 
 Another method. Melt together a pint of oil of sweet almonds, 
 one ounce of white wax, half an ounce of spermaceti, and half a 
 pint of rose water ; beat to a paste. 
 
 TO REMOVE A TIGHT RING. 
 
 When a ring happens to get tightly fixed on the finger, as it 
 
TOILET RECEIPTS. 51 
 
 will sometimes do, a piece of common twine should be well soaped, 
 and then be wound round the finger as tightly as possible, or as 
 can be borne. The twine should commence at the point of the 
 finger, and be continued till the ring is reached ; the end of the 
 twine must then be forced through the ring with the head of a 
 needle, or anything else that may be at hand. If the string is 
 then unwound, the ring is almost sure to come off the finger 
 with it. 
 
 CHAPPED HANDS. 
 
 The simplest remedy is the camphor-ball, to be obtained at all 
 druggist's. 
 
 Powdered hemlock bark put into a piece of muslin and sprinkled 
 on the chaps is highly recommended. 
 
 Or, wash with oatmeal, and afterwards rub the hands over with 
 dry oatmeal, so as to remove all dampness. 
 
 It is a good thing to rub the hands and lips with glycerine be- 
 fore going to bed at night. 
 
 A good ointment is made by simmering in a pipkin, sweet oil 
 one pint ; Venice turpentine, three ounces ; lard half a pound ; 
 bees'- wax, three ounces, till the wax is melted. Rub on or apply 
 with a rag. 
 
 COLD FEET. 
 
 Those who suffer much in this respect should wear woollen 
 socks or stockings, and put the feet in mustard and water before 
 going to bed, not forgetting to rub them with a coarse towel. 
 
 SUNBURN. 
 
 Milk of almonds, to be obtained at any druggist's, is as good 
 a remedy as any in use. 
 
 CHILBLAINS. 
 
 The remedies are innumerable. 
 
 1. When indications of chilblain first present themselves, take 
 vinegar 3 oz., camphorated spirits of wine 1 oz., mix and rub. 
 
 2. When they have appeared, rub with alum and water. 
 
 3. Put the hands and feet two or three times a week into warm 
 water in which two or three handfuls of common salt have been 
 dissolved. 
 
 4. Rub with a raw onion dipped in salt. 
 
52 TOILET BECEIPTS. 
 
 KED HANDS. 
 
 Wash them frequently in warm, not hot water, using honey- 
 soap and a soft towel. Dry with violet-powder, and again with 
 a soft, dry handkerchief. Take exercise enough to promote cir- 
 culation, and do no wear gloves too tight. 
 
 BUENS. 
 
 An application of cold, wet common whitening placed on im- 
 mediately, is recommended as an invaluable remedy. 
 
 warts. 
 
 At the first appearance of these troublesome things, pare as 
 closely as possible, and touch with lunar caustic ; if this is not 
 effective, pare again, and give a second touch, or try acetic acid. 
 
 PATENT LEATHER BOOTS. 
 
 In cleaning patent leather boots, first remove all the dirt upon 
 them, then, with a sponge or flannel, the boot should be rubbed 
 lightly over with a paste consisting of two spoonfuls of cream 
 and one of linseed-oil, both of which require to be warmed be- 
 fore being mixed. Polish with a soft cloth. 
 
 TO CLEAN KID BOOTS. 
 
 Mix a little white of egg and ink in a bottle, so that the com* 
 position may be well shaken up when required for use. Apply 
 to the kid with a piece of sponge, and rub dry — the best thing to 
 rub with is the palm of the hand. Where the kid shows symp- 
 toms of cracking, rub in a few drops of sweet oil. The soles and 
 heels should be polished with common blacking. 
 
 IMPROVING THE COMPLEXION. 
 
 To improve the complexion, some flowers of sulphur should be 
 mixed with a small quantity of milk, and, after standing a few 
 hours, it may be rubbed on the skin. 
 
 GREASE SPOTS. 
 
 French-chalk is useful for removing grease spots from clothing. 
 
TOILET RECEIPTS. 53 
 
 Spots on silk will sometimes yield' if a piece of blotting-paper is 
 placed over them, and the blade of a knife is heated (not too much) 
 and passed over the paper. 
 
 STICKING PLASTEE. 
 
 Stretch a piece of black silk on a wooden frame, and apply dis- 
 solved isinglass to one side of it with a brush. Let it dry ; re- 
 peat process, and then cover with a strong tincture of balsam of 
 Peru. 
 
 TO LOOSEN STOPPEES OF TOILET BOTTLES. 
 
 Let a drop of pure oil flow round the stopper, and stand the 
 bottle a foot or two from the fire. After a time, tap the stopper 
 smartly — but not too hard — with the handle of a hair-brush ; if 
 this is not effectual, use a fresh drop of oil, and repeat t 1 - e pro- 
 cess ; it is pretty sure to succeed. 
 
 CLEANING JEWELEY. 
 
 Gold ornaments are best kept bright and clean with soap and 
 warm water, with which they should be scrubbed, a soft nail- 
 brush being used for the purpose. They may be dried in box 
 sawdust, in a bed of which it is desirable to let them lie before 
 the fire for a time. Imitation jewelry may be treated in the 
 same way. 
 
 For cleaning silver, either articles of personal wear or those 
 pertaining to the toilet-table or dressing-case, there is nothing 
 better than a spoonful of common whitening— carefully pounded 
 so as to be without lumps — reduced to a paste with gin. It 
 answers admirably. 
 
 PASTE FOB EAZOE-STEOPS. 
 
 Flour of emery, washed so as to be free from the coarse parti- 
 cles, two drachms ; colcothar, commonly called crocus* or crccus 
 martiSy washed in like manner, one drachm. To be mixed to- 
 gether, and then worked up into a stiff paste with spermaceti 
 ointment. This paste must be rubbed upon the razor-strop so 
 as to cover the surface of this latter with as thin a coating as 
 possible ; it should then be smoothed with a glass bottle. The 
 strop should not be used during forty-eight hours after the paste 
 has been applied. 
 
54 TOILET RECEIPTS. 
 
 ROUGE AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR THE CARMINE OF THE CARTHAMUS. 
 
 There is a Brazil wood of a fine golden red color. It is called 
 " Fernambucca Brazil wood." Take nine ounces of this wood- 
 cut it into little bits and pound them well, in a very clean iron 
 mortar, with a heavy pestle, so that the wood may be -bruised 
 almast to pulp. Put it into a well tinned stewpan with a quart 
 of the best white wine vinegar. Let there ingredients boil to- 
 gether, after ebullition, during half an hour, keeping the stew- 
 pan well covered. Strain the liquid through linen, pressing out 
 everything that will pass. "Wash and wipe the stewpan, pour into 
 it the strained liquid, and place it again on the fire. Meanwhile, 
 dissolve in a pint of the same kind of vinegar, four ounces and a 
 half of pounded alum. Mix the two liquids together over the 
 fire, stir them with a wooden spoon entirely free from grease, 
 and let them simmer. A scum will now arise, which must be 
 removed with a clean skimmer, and after being drained from all 
 liquid, must be placed upon sheets of clean letter-paper. This 
 scum is the rouge. It must be very gradually dried by setting 
 the paper on which it is placed in a slack oven, or on a stove not 
 much heated, or at some little distance from the fire. Great care 
 must be taken that no dust fall upon it. When dry, it is fit for use* 
 
 WHITE PAINT. 
 
 Talc, four ounces ; distilled vinegar, one pint. The talc must 
 be rasped to a fine powder, but without soiling it in the slightest 
 degree. Having carefully sifted the powder, add it to the vine- 
 gar. Shake the bottle that contains it, three times a day during 
 a fortnight, allowing eight or ten minutes to each shaking ; then 
 let it settle during two days more without shaking or agitation. 
 Now, pour off the vinegar slowly, draining every drop from the 
 powder at the bottom of the vessel. To this add a pint of dis- 
 tilled water, shake the bottle, and pour the whole contents into 
 a basin, adding more distilled water to bring out any of the pow- 
 der that remains behind. Add another quart of distilled water, 
 and stir the whole well in the basin with a spatula of ivory or 
 box, but not of metal. Let the powder settle and pour off the 
 water. Wash the powder again in the same manner with dis- 
 tilled water, five or six times, until it is very smooth and soft. 
 Then piece it upon clean letter-paper and dry it in the manner 
 directed for the rouge. When dry, sift it through a sieve with a 
 bottom of silk. This powder is applied by puttiug upon a hare's 
 foot, or the finger, a very little thin cold cream, and laying upon 
 this a minute quantity of the powder. 
 
THE SCIENCE 
 OR 
 
 ART OF, DRESSING WELL. 
 
 FEMALE DEESS. 
 
 — "lis no sin to dress ; 
 Art improves nature. 
 " "What cannot art attain !" 
 
 "A prepossessing exterior, is a perpetual letter of recom- 
 mendation ;" and daily experience proves, that first impressions 
 are of considerable importance, not only in conciliating the good 
 will of others, as producing a kind of preliminary esteem at first 
 sight, but that they also not unfrequently determine our lot on 
 the great theatre of human life, making or marring our future 
 success, according as they made favorable or unfavorable impres- 
 sions on the feelings and opinions of those at the time of our in- 
 troduction to their notice and acquaintance. 
 
 This subject has been well commented on by Lavater, who 
 properly said, that persons judiciously and habitually attentive 
 to their attire, display the same regularity in their domestic 
 affairs. " Young women," he adds, " who neglect their toilette, 
 and manifest little concern about dress, indicate a general disre- 
 gard of order ; a mind but ill-adapted to the detail of domestic 
 affairs ; a deficiency of taste, and of the qualities that inspire 
 love: — they will be careless in every thing. The girl at eighteen, 
 who desires not to please, will be a slut, or a shrew, at twenty- 
 five. Pay attention, young men, to this sign ; it never yet was 
 known to deceive." 
 
 These dicta are powerful arguments in proof of the policy and 
 propriety of attention to dress. 
 
56 THE SCIENCE OR AET OF DRESSING WELL 
 
 \ 
 
 Among the most polished nations of modern times, the taste 
 for dress is also predominant. The outcry about its folly and 
 vanity is unheeded. Though homily after homily, and sermon 
 after sermon have been preached and printed, the love of dress 
 and ornament still remains predominant in the human heart, and 
 still finds its votaries in every grade and station of life. The 
 reign of embellishment is and has been predominant and ever 
 will be so in the female heart. 
 
 The conquests of fashion and the love of embellishment are 
 all prevalent ; even the Quakeresses are capitulating, and the rea- 
 son is founded on policy and good sense. Nothing conduces 
 more to the display and heightening of female beauty and love- 
 liness than appropriate and tasteful dress. Hence it is evident 
 that the desire of exhibiting an amiable exterior is essentially 
 requisite in the female sex, for the" charms of a beautiful woman 
 are heightened and enhanced by a proper attention to the ele- 
 gance of dress and attire, just as a beautiful painting derives ad- 
 ditional beauty from tasteful and judicious framing. 
 
 This desire is attainable by a knowledge of dress doctrines, 
 by a due attention to an elegant simplicity and a judicious choice 
 or disposition of dress. For dress is the natural finish of beauty ; 
 without it, a handsome person is a gem, but a gem that is not 
 set, and is in want of an intelligent artist to give it, by means of 
 a brilliant chasing, all the lustre of which it is susceptible. 
 
 The art, therefore, of imparting a charm to beauty, by the pro- 
 per selection and adjustment of the various articles of attire to 
 the female form and figure, and by the harmonious blending or 
 agreeable contrasting together of the various articles of which it 
 is composed, is of the highest consideration and importance in 
 the duties of The Toilet. 
 
 Nature in her grand amphitheatre of grace and beauty has ex- 
 hibited in the female form, certain defined and settled rules and 
 canons may be safely laid down for its graceful and fashionable 
 display — for drawing out and heightening the graces of the form 
 and the delicacy of the complexion, and giving expression to all 
 the " witchery and winning, " "the charms and sweetness" of 
 that "most replenished sweet work of Nature/' Lovely Woman? 
 and investing her beauteous form in " a pomp of winning graces. '' 
 
 Thes*e rules or canons may be reduced to the following few 
 brief aphorisms : — 
 
THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 57 
 
 1. However imperative the authority of fashion may be — (for 
 in her variable nights and caprices she frequently soars beyond 
 the reach of propriety, and is frequently the exterminating angel 
 of beauty) — her laws ought always to be nnder the subjection of 
 taste and in obedience to its fundamental principles. A dress 
 may be in the first style of fashion, and yet may infringe on every 
 rule of good taste, and altogether disfigure the lady for whom it 
 was made. Fine figures are often destroyed by absurd arrange- 
 ments, beautiful faces spoiled by awkward head-dresses, and com- 
 plexions ruined by an injudicious choice of colors. General fash- 
 ions should only be conformed to when, as Goldsmith has well 
 said, they are not repugnant to private beauty. But unhappily 
 the ladies do not think so. Mrs. Bustlebody has only to use 
 these talismanic words, "It is worn so," to make the dear crea- 
 tures put on any absurdity, and really make "frights" of them- 
 selves. But, unhappily, the arbitrary laws of fashion and the 
 dictation of the milliner are all-powerful in this respect. By the 
 magic whisk of her needle, the latter can impose on her worship- 
 pers any fashion she pleases. 
 
 2. " The Toilette," like an accompaniment in music, ought to 
 harmonize with the person ; it ought to vary according to the 
 figure and general contour, the features, the physiognomy, and 
 the color of the complexion and that of the hair. 
 
 Ladies, therefore, who aim at grace and symmetry in the dis- 
 play of their forms, must consider the character of their figures, 
 and adapt their dress to personal peculiarities, to the style and 
 character of the features and figure, — in a word, to the bias and 
 direction of Nature in their conformation. Fashions invented 
 for some tall and slender arbitress of taste do not become the 
 short, stout, or petite figure, and the contrary. The ridiculous 
 and servile observance of that ever varying cameleon La Mode or 
 Fashion, and "the run of the town " by ladies " of all casts, sizes, 
 and figures," has been justly and ingeniously satirized: "If 
 fashion gives the word, every distinction of beauty, complexion, 
 and stature, ceases. Sweeping trains, and Russian bonnets, or 
 bonnets with snouts as long as an elephant's proboscis, or mar- 
 gins as broad as a coal-heaver's shovel, and trollopees, as like each 
 other as if they had been cut from the same piece, level all to 
 one standard. The mall, the gardens, the play-houses, are filled 
 
58 THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 with ladies in uniform ; and their whole appearance shows as lit- 
 tle variety of taste as if their clothes had been bespoke by the 
 Colonel of a marching regiment, or fancied by the artist who 
 dresses the three battalions of guards." 
 
 "Mrs. Bustle body," adds another ingenious critic on female 
 dress, "has only to use these talismanic words 'It is worn so,' 
 to convince the dear and gentle Sex that it is really fashionable, 
 when the dear creatures like lambs will even assume the costume 
 of a short-coated opera figurante, or kindly condescend to sweep 
 the streets in the character of Dorothy Draggle Tail." 
 
 3. As has just been said, the dress should be adapted to the 
 figure, so as to harmonize with it. The same form of costume 
 and style of dress does not become all figures. The airy form 
 and the majestic character require very distinct varieties and de- 
 grees of attire. The graceful figure of the first style or character 
 of beauty should be arrayed in a corresponding style of dress, 
 — light, tasty, and elegant; and no furbelows or heavy orna- 
 ments or trimmings should warp or encumber its outline and 
 simplicity. On the contrary, the dress of the majestic form 
 should be of more substance, more ample in its folds, more abun- 
 dant in its drapery, and be long and flowing ; gems, embroidery, 
 and waving plumes, are her appropriate ornaments. And in 
 either case, whether that of the airy or the majestic form, the 
 habiliments should be neither scantily circumscribed, nor larger 
 than is requisite ; but should be sufficiently full to fall easily in 
 diverging folds from the waist downwards to the feet, in lightly 
 flowing and clustering drapery. 
 
 " The mantle or cottage-cloak should never," as observed by 
 a writer, who by her own personal elegance proved the correct- 
 ness of her taste, "be worn by females exceeding a moderate 
 embonpoint ; and we recommend winter garbs to be formed of 
 double sarsnet, or fine Morina cloth, rather than velvets, which 
 (except black) give an appearance of increased size to the wear- 
 er. In the adoption of furs, flat ermine, or fringe fur is better 
 suited to the full-formed woman than swan's down, fox, chinchil- 
 la, or sable ; those are graceful appendages for the more slender. 
 Women of a spare habit, and of a tall and elegant height, will 
 derive considerable advantage from the full flowing robe, man- 
 tle, and Roman tunic. The fur trimming, too, gives to them an 
 appearance of roundness which Nature has denied ; and to this 
 
THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 59 
 
 character or style of person we can scarcely recommend an even- 
 ing dress more chaste, elegant, and advantageous, than robes of 
 white satin, trimmed with swan's down, with draperies of silver 
 or gossamer net." 
 
 A judicious dresser will, therefore, select attire and habiliments 
 that harmonize with the peculiar style and character of her figure, 
 and will never follow fashion further than becomes the cast and 
 contour of her person ; she will adapt her dress to her complex- 
 ion and figure, to her face and person without any regard to the 
 prevalent fashion of the time. Dress to be becoming should be 
 so adapted as to bring out the natural beauties of the person. 
 To look well we must look natural. An appropriate style of 
 dressing is no bad indication of correct taste and sound judg- 
 ment, and is no indifferent test of the delicacy of mind of the 
 wearer, which is one of the chief attractions of womankind. 
 
 4. But of all the secrets of "The Aet or Science of Dress- 
 ing," the greatest lies in simplicity : — 
 
 " Let art no useless ornament display, 
 
 But just explain what Mature meant to say." 
 
 In order that the beautiful outline of a well-proportioned form 
 may be seen in the contour of the dress, and every symmetrical 
 line preserved, it is not only necessary that the divisions of the 
 dress should be few and simple, but the dress should be also free 
 from all meretricious or redundant ornament ; for either of these 
 defects distracts the attention of the beholder, and detracts from 
 feminine loveliness either of form or of feature. In no particu- 
 lar do tiremen and tirewomen display their absurdity and bad 
 taste, and almost Gothic ignorance of the principles of drapery 
 in painting and sculpture, than in their violation of the laws and 
 principles of simplicity and harmony. Every lady should there- 
 fore consult her own taste, and take care that it is properly chast- 
 ened by the laws of Nature and the rules of the artist. The aim 
 and design of all correct dressing is grace and propriety rather 
 than exuberance and multiplicity. A multiplicity of ornaments 
 always distracts the attention, and detracts from female charms 
 and loveliness ; to over-load the person with superfluous and ill- 
 assorted ornaments is not only destructive of female beauty, but 
 it is ridiculous and a violation of all the rules of good taste and 
 
60 THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 propriety. By every person of sense, they are regarded as a 
 sort of make-weights in a scale, to supply those endowments of 
 which Nature has been a niggard in the? dispensation of her gifts 
 and bounties. Good looks depend more on good taste and good 
 sense than on the milliner or the jeweler. Art to be effective in 
 the display of the human figure must be the handmaid of Nature. 
 Though your gown, bonnet, or shawl, be not of the most ex- 
 pensive articles, and not of the latest fashion, yet if they be made 
 with taste and simplicity and worn gracefully, they will be more 
 becoming than if made in a tawdry manner, and ornamented 
 with a heap of finery. Avoid all bushels of bustles, and the de- 
 testable bad taste of a hundred colors of ribbons, and ends and 
 points flying about you. 
 
 "When a lady is disproportionately broad in the bust, the more 
 plainly the shoulders are trimmed the better, as in that case a 
 diminished effect is required. On the other hand, if the bust is 
 disproportionately narrow, the epaulette ought to be very full, 
 the sleeve falling off the shoulder, and the trimming to corres- 
 pond in producing an increase of breadth to make up the defi- 
 ciency of Nature ; or the epaulettes should be formed on the 
 outer edge of the shoulders very full, and both the bosom and 
 back of the dress should run in oblique folds from, the point of 
 the shoulder to the middle of the bust. The trimmings required 
 for a slender form ought to be fuller than for a form partaking of 
 embonpoint. Any projection from the shoulders of the nature 
 of tippet, spencer, frill, or trimming of any kind destroys that 
 beautiful undulation of the figure which begins at the shoulders, 
 by forming a kind of angle or interruption of the line of beauty, 
 that ought never to be broken or interrupted. No ill-fitting 
 dress should be worn, as it destroys the contour of the figure. A 
 dress, according to the artistic treatment of drapery, should 
 either fit closely, or be sufficiently loose to form graceful and 
 natural folds. 
 
 Short "Women destroy the symmetry of their forms, and en- 
 cumber their charms with redundancy of ornament. "A dimin- 
 utive woman befeathered and befurbelowed looks," says a humor- 
 ous writer, "like a queen of the Bantam tribe, whom we dare 
 not approach for fear of ruining her plumes." Neither do long 
 waists and high flounces become short figures. Their trimmings 
 
THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 61 
 
 should be placed as low and the dress be made as long as possi- 
 ble, of a moderate width, and hang in graceful folds. Tall 
 Women should wear wide skirts and deep flounces ; for the lines 
 being broken by the flounces, the height of the figure will bo 
 diminished. Where the lower posterior part of the body is too 
 flat, an elevation may be given it, by the top of the skirt being 
 gathered behind, and the bustle or tournure being put into re- 
 quisition. If the anterior or front lower part of the body is too 
 prominent, the prominency may be rendered less apparent by 
 shortening the waist, and making a corresponding projection be- 
 hind ; at the same time imparting an expansion to the bosom or 
 increasing its apparent volume. Where the haunches are too 
 narrow, care should be taken that the bottom of the dress is not 
 too wide. Waists too long may be made to appear less by a 
 stomacher, or something equivalent, imparting a corresponding 
 appearance to the dress behind. The top of the dress should 
 also be laid smooth across the shoulders, and drawn in plaits to 
 a narrow point at the bottom of the waist. The defect of a long 
 waist may also be concealed by the fullness of the petticoats sup- 
 ported by a small bustle, or the tournure of the French, which 
 consists of a handkerchief drawn up by the end through the 
 staylace. This substitution for the bustle raises up the folds of 
 the dress and makes them fall elegantly. By way of giving a 
 finish to the Style and arrangement of the dress, the robe is then 
 drawn a little to one side, passed down on the hips with the back 
 of the hand, and the tips of the fingers are passed several times 
 through the folds behind to make them fall tastefully. 
 
 5. But among all the " Secrets of the Toilette," none requires 
 more taste and skill in being called into action than the proper 
 selection and combination of colors — (the copying of the beau- 
 ties of Nature's creation in lovely Woman's dress;) for either 
 Agreeable harmonies, or excruciating discords, may be produced 
 from the juxtaposition of hues. To those who have paid no at- 
 tention to this subject, it is inconceivable how much the choice 
 of colors contributes to heighten the beauty of the skin and the 
 general cast of tho features. Though a color may appear beau- 
 tiful in itself, it may not be favorable for the display of the beau- 
 ty of all Women. Often the color, which the tyranny of fashion 
 has introduced into vogue, is injurious to the most beautiful 
 
62 THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 countenance. It can scarcely be conceived, by those who have 
 paid little or no attention to these matters, how much the color 
 of a dress, or of a shawl, may heighten or destroy the beauty of 
 a complexion, and how much the Sex in general neglect these (to 
 them) important particulars. The truth is, few Women have any 
 correct ideas of the harmony or the agreeable assemblage and 
 contrast of colors. As the object of the employment of colors 
 is to heighten the lustre of the skin, or to disguise the want of 
 that quality, when ill-assorted or injudiciously adopted they de- 
 stroy female loveliness; where tastefully assorted or selected, 
 they materially contribute to enhance it, and even improve plain 
 features. By the proper adjustment of colors to the complexion 
 of the wearer, and their harmonious blending or agreeably con- 
 trasting with the attire, beauty is materially assisted or marred. 
 
 Harmony must therefore be maintained between the complex- 
 ion and the colors of the dress ; for it is not sufficient for the 
 skin to be actually beautiful, but it must likewise appear so. This 
 object is attained by the proper choice or tasteful selection and 
 harmonious assortment of colors employed in dress. Colors, as 
 has been said, when ill-assorted, may totally eclipse the charms 
 of the most beautiful face ; on the contrary, when used with taste, 
 they may enhance the attractions of a very inferior complexion. 
 The adaptation of colors, and the harmonizing and properly con 
 trasting of them, so as to produce the desired effect, are points 
 therefore of great importance, and require a very nice discrim- 
 ination in their assortment, and accurate judgment in their ap- 
 plication. The general rule for the attainment of this object is 
 to consider to which of the primary colors (yellow, red, and blue) 
 the complexion of the wearer bears the affinity ; by attending to 
 this simple rule, we can be enabled to pronounce which best har- 
 monizes with the complexion, and which will offend by apposi- 
 tion or an ill-accommodated contrast. The particular rules are : 
 
 It is an important point, before a fashionable color is adopted, 
 to determine how far it will harmonize with the complexion ; 
 whether it will tend rather to injure than to improve its beauty ; 
 for different colors produce different effects on the female com- 
 plexion. Those colors which seem most appropriate to beauty, 
 are the milder of every sort — light greens, soft blues, weak whites, 
 pink reds, and violets. If they are strong and bright, they must 
 
THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING AYELL. 63 
 
 be diversified, and never of one strong predominant color. Bril- 
 liant colors, or flaming reds, bright blues, and yellows, should 
 be cautiously employed. Delicate and subdued colors are, as 
 has just been stated, the most chaste and pleasing. The pre- 
 dominant principle of the colors employed in dress should con- 
 trast or harmonize as much as possible with the complexion ; and 
 the color of the trimmings ought in the same way to harmonize 
 tastefully with the dress, and form a pleasing contrast with it. 
 Generally speaking, however, trimmings and embellishments 
 will bear a greater richness of colors than the ground-work or 
 principal material of the dress. 
 
 "Where the lily predominates in the complexion, (indeed, it 
 may be said in the case of all fair females,) light and brilliant 
 colors, as rose, azure, light yellow, &c. , should prevail in their 
 dress. These colors heighten the lustre of the fair complexion, 
 which, if accompanied with darker colors, would frequently have 
 the appearance of alabaster, without life and without expression. 
 On the contrary, women of a dark complexion who dress in these 
 colors, cause their skin to appear of a dull blackish hue. They 
 should therefore avoid wearing linen or laces of too brilliant a 
 white, or white robes, and rose-colored or light-blue ribbons, as 
 those colors will produce a disagreeable contrast with their coun- 
 tenances. The colors best suited to dark complexions are green, 
 violet, puce, blue, purple, and some of the varieties of yellow ; 
 and then that dark hue, which was only the effect of too harsh 
 a contrast, will appear to great advantage, and become lively and 
 animated. In more abstract language, the fair complexion should 
 have its paleness corrected by light colors ; and the dark coun- 
 tenance, by the stronger colors. 
 
 Azure is best suited to a pale tint, and the tender color of the 
 queen of flowers perfectly harmonizes with the roses of the cheeks ; 
 but if the face displays too lively a carnation, then the beautiful 
 livery of Nature is best adapted to the female countenance. In 
 complexions where neither the rose nor the lily predominates, the 
 harmonizing colors are rose or a fine white, and the contrasting 
 colors pink, pale green, and lilac. The principal part of the dress 
 should therefore consist of the harmonizing color, while the con- 
 trasting color should compose the ornaments or trimmings. 
 Whatever its gaudy or glaring, has an injurious effect on a com- 
 
64: THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 plexion partaking of a fine carnation. When black or any other 
 dark color is worn by a lady of delicate complexion, the dull ef- 
 fect produced on the countenance should be enlivened by trim- 
 mings of some of the contrasting colors. 
 
 In florid complexions, where the carnation is too high and 
 obtrusive, such colors must be chosen as will tend to diminish it 
 by contrast or comparison, and the ornaments and trimmings 
 should always be of a brighter and more attractive hue than the 
 color of the complexion. 
 
 Complexions distinguished for the delicacy and transparency 
 of the skin, should be set off by comparison or contrast. In the 
 first case, delicate greens and lilacs will produce the necessary 
 effect; and in the second, dark- colors, provided they are not 
 too deep and harsh, may be worn with advantage. 
 
 For the pale complexion, the colors best adapted are the dif- 
 ferent shades of grey, pale yellows, puce and lilac. Black, trim- 
 med with pale roce or pink, is well suited to this complexion. 
 When females of this complexion wear white garments they should 
 animate them with draperies mantles, scarfs, ribbons, &c, of 
 pale pink, blossom color, celestial blue, lilac, dove color, or prim- 
 rose. 
 
 The colors that harmonize best with the sallow countenance 
 are the several shades of green, blue, red, and purple. W T hite, 
 grey, and black colors increase the shade of sallowness, and light 
 colored ribbons are far from producing an agreeable effect. The 
 bright colors, especially yellow and orange, in all their shades, 
 form the best contrast with the dark and pleasing tint of the 
 brunette. 
 
 But it is not only necessary to adopt such colors as are best 
 suited to the complexion, but care should be taken that the dif- 
 ferent colors admitted into the various parts of the dress should 
 perfectly harmonize or agree together ; for nothing is more harsh 
 than the contrast of colors of the same kind. Thus, a rose col- 
 ored hat and a crimson shawl are at variance with all the laws 
 of contrast or harmony. Attention is also necassary to be paid 
 to the effect produced by the " tout ensemble " of the colors em- 
 ployed in the dress ; for a particular color which alone, or assort- 
 ed with suitable colors, would appear pleasing, is often rendered 
 ridiculous, unbecoming, or ungraceful, by the contrast with 
 others. Thus, the exhibition of a light blue robe, with either 
 
THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 65 
 
 the colored hat or shawl above-mentioned, makes tjie caricature 
 complete. 
 
 Another rule in the employment of colors in dress is deserving 
 of equal attention. It is of importance to observe, that you 
 do not overstep the boundaries of good taste in the number and 
 variety of colors which you may employ. You may display the 
 greatest taste and judgment in the contrast and harmony of colors ; 
 and yet, owing to their profusion, they may obtrude themselves 
 too glaringly on the eye, drawing the attention more to the dress 
 than to the countenance and figure of the person, an error which 
 ought to be carefully avoided ; the fewer the colors are which 
 are used, the more simple and graceful will be the effect. 
 
 In the canons of the laws of harmony and contrast, size, or 
 the magnitude of objects, has also its rules to be observed in re- 
 gard of colors ; large objects appear to greater advantage in sober 
 colors than smaller ones. Lightly graceful figures appear most 
 advantageously in light colors ; and when white is not the color 
 of their attire, the most tender shades of green, yellow, pink, 
 blue, and lilac, are the hues most friendly to the display of their 
 charms ; whereas the more sober shades are adapted to the ma- 
 jestic forms. Black, however, not only suits the complexion of 
 all forms, and is becoming to all figures, but is at once piquant 
 and elegant ; it has & surprising effect in imparting grace and 
 elegance to a well-turned form. 
 
 In costume, nothing is more common than to see tints em- 
 ployed together which are discordant ; for example, purple and 
 green. Now, be the dress or bonnet ever so well made, and the 
 wearer ever so beautiful, the effect of such ignorance will be un- 
 pleasant in the extreme. 
 
 Every color has its perfect harmnoy, which is called its con- 
 trast, and also other colors which harmonize with it indifferent 
 degrees. When two colors are associated which do not accord, 
 the addition of a third may make a harmonious group. The 
 same rule holds good with three or more colors. 
 
 There are two kinds of harmony acknowledged in the group- 
 ing of colors, namely, the harmony of contrast and the harmony 
 of analogy. 
 
 When two colors which are dissimilar are associated agreeably, 
 such as blue and orange, or lilac and cherry, they form a har- 
 
66 THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 mony of contrast. And when two distant tones of one color are 
 associated, such as very light and very dark blue, they harmonize 
 by contrast. Of course, in the latter instance the harmony is 
 neither so striking nor so perfect. 
 
 "When two colors are grouped which are similar to each other 
 in disposition, such as orange and scarlet, crimson and crimson- 
 brown, or orange and orange-brown, they form a harmony of 
 analogy. And if two or more tones of one color be associated, 
 closely aproximating in intensity, they harmonize by analogy. 
 
 The harmonies of contrast are more effective, although not 
 more important, than those of analogy ; the former are charac- 
 terized by brilliancy and decision, while the latter are peculiar 
 for their quiet, retiring, and undemonstrative nature. In affairs 
 of dress both hold equal positions ; and in arranging colors in 
 costume, care must be taken to adopt the proper species of har- 
 mony. 
 
 The simplest rules to be observed are the following: 1. When 
 a color is selected which is favorable to the complexion, it is ad- 
 visable to associate with it tints which will harmonize by analogy, 
 because the adoption of contrasting colors would diminish its 
 favorable effect. 2. When a color is employed in dress which is 
 injurious to the complexion, contrasting colors must be associated 
 with it, as they have the power to neutralize its objectionable in- 
 fluence. 
 
 We will take an example illustrative of the first rule. Green 
 suits the blonde, and, when worn by her, its associated colors 
 should be tones of itself (slightly lighter or darker,) which will 
 rather enhance than reduce its effect. 
 
 As an example of the second rule, we may take violet, which, 
 although unsuitable to brunettes, may be rendered agreeable by 
 having tones of yellow or orange grouped with it. 
 
 Colors of similar power which contrast with each other mutual- 
 ly intensify each other's brilliancy, as blue and orange, scarlet 
 and green. When dark and very light colors are associated, they 
 do not intensify each other in the same manner ; the dark color 
 is made to appear deeper, and the light to appear lighter, as dark 
 blue and straw-color, or any dark color and the light tints of the 
 complexion. 
 
 Colors which harmonize with each other by analogy reduce 
 
THE SCIENCE OR ART OP DRESSING WEL£. 67 
 
 each other's brilliancy to a greater or less degree ; as white and 
 yellow, blue and purple, black and brown. 
 
 In dress it is objectionable to associate together different hues 
 of one color ; for instance, yellow-green, and blue-green, or 
 orange-brown, and purple-brown. Care must therefore be taken 
 in selecting different tones of a color to see that they belong to 
 the same scale. 
 
 There is another fact we wish to bring before our readers ere 
 we close our remarks on the harmony of color, namely, that tints 
 which accord by daylight may appear unharmonious by artificial 
 light, and vice versa ; thus, purple and orange harmonize by day, 
 but are disagreeable by gaslight; and white and yellow, w T hich 
 are unsatisfactory by daylight, are suitable for evening dress. 
 
 There are many colors which lose much of their brilliancy and 
 hue by gaslight, and are therefore unserviceable for evening cos- 
 tume ; of this class we may enumerate all the shades of purple 
 and lilac, and dark blues and greens. Others gain brilliancy in 
 artificial light, as orange, scarlet, crimson, and the light browns 
 and greens. It is advisable that all these circumstances should 
 be considered, in the selection of colors for morning and even- 
 ing costume. 
 
 Our readers will find the following list of harmonious groups 
 of service in the arrangement of colors in dress ; we have given 
 the most useful as well as the most agreeable combinations. 
 
 Blue and gold (or gold-color), a rich harmony. 
 
 Blue and orange, a perfect harmony. 
 
 Blue and crimson harmonize, but imperfectly. 
 
 Blue and pink, a poor harmony. 
 
 Blue and salmon-color, an agreeable harmony. 
 
 Blue and lilac, a weak harmony. 
 
 Blue and drab harmonize. 
 
 Blue and stone-color harmonize. 
 
 Blue and fawn-color, a weak harmony. 
 
 Blue and whitB (or gray) harmonize. 
 
 Blue and straw-color harmonize. 
 
 Blue and maize harmonize. 
 
 Blue and chestnut (or chocolate) harmonize. 
 
 Blue and brown, an agreeable harmony. 
 
 Blue and black harmonize. 
 
68 THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 Blue, scarlet, and purple (or lilac) harmonize. 
 
 Blue, orange, and black harmonize. 
 
 Blue, orange, and green, harmonize. 
 
 Blue, brown, crimson, and gold (or yellow) harmonize. 
 
 Blue, orange, black and white, harmonize. 
 
 Red and gold (or gold-color) harmonize. 
 
 Red and white (or gray) harmonize. 
 
 Red, orange, and green, harmonize. 
 
 Red, yellow (or gold-color,) and black, harmonize. 
 
 Red, gold-color, black and white, harmonize. 
 
 Scarlet and blue harmonize.. 
 
 Scarlet and orange harmonize. 
 
 Scarlet and slate-color harmonize. 
 
 Scarlet, black, and white harmonize. 
 
 Scarlet, blue and white harmonize. 
 
 Scarlet, blue and gray harmonize. 
 
 Scarlet, blue and yellow harmonize. 
 
 Scarlet, blue, black, and yellow harmonize. 
 
 Crimson and gold (or gold-color,) a rich harmony. 
 
 Crimson and orange, a rich harmony. 
 
 Crimson and maize harmonize. 
 
 Crimson and purple harmonize. 
 
 Crimson and black, a dull harmony. 
 
 Crimson and drab harmonize. 
 
 Crimson and brown, a dull harmony. 
 
 Yellow and purple, an agreeable harmony. 
 
 Yellow and blue harmonize, but cold. 
 
 Yellow and violet harmonize. 
 
 Yellow and lilac, a weak harmony. 
 
 Yellow and chestnut (or chocolate) harmonize. 
 
 Yellow and brown harmonize. 
 
 Yellow and red harmonize. 
 
 Yellow and crimson harmonize. 
 
 Yellow and white, a poor harmony. 
 
 Yellow and black harmonize. 
 
 Yellow, purple, and crimson harmonize. 
 
 Yellow, purple, scarlet, and blue harmonize. 
 
 Green and gold, or gold-color, a rich harmony. 
 
 Green and yellow harmonize. 
 
 Green and orange harmonize. 
 
THE SCIENCE OR ART OF PRESSING WELL. 69 
 
 Green and scarlet harmonize. 
 
 Green, scarlet, and blue harmonize. 
 
 Green, crimson, blue, and gold, or yellow, harmonize. 
 
 Orange and chestnut harmonize. 
 
 Orange and brown, an agreeable harmony. 
 
 Orange, lilac, and crimson, harmonize. 
 
 Orange, red, and green harmonize. 
 
 Orange, blue, and crimson harmonize. 
 
 Orange, purple, and scarlet harmonize. 
 
 Orange, blue, scarlet, and purple harmonize. 
 
 Orange, blue, scarlet, and claret harmonize. 
 
 Orange, blue, scarlet, white, and green harmonize. * 
 
 Purple and gold, or gold-color, a rich harmony. ** 
 
 Purple and orange, a rich harmony. 
 
 Purple and maize harmonize. 
 
 Purple and blue harmonize. 
 
 Purple and black, a heavy harmony. 
 
 Purple and white, a cold harmony. 
 
 Purple, scarlet, and gold-color harmonize. 
 
 Purple, scarlet, and white harmonize. 
 
 Purple, scarlet, blue, and orange harmonize. 
 
 Purple, scarlet, blue, yellow, and black harmonize. 
 
 Lilac and gold, or gold-color, harmonize. 
 
 Lilac and white, a poor harmony. 
 
 Lilac and gray, a poor harmony. 
 
 Lilac and maize harmonize. 
 
 Lilac and cherry, an agreeable harmony. 
 
 Lilac and scarlet harmonize. 
 
 Lilac and crimson harmonize. 
 
 Lilac, scarlet, and white, or black, harmonize. ' 
 
 Lilac, gold-color, and crimson harmonize. 
 
 Lilac, yellow, or gold, scarlet, and white harmonize. * 
 
 White and gold-color, a poor harmony. 
 
 White and scarlet harmonize. 
 
 White and crimson harmonize. 
 
 White and cherry harmonize. 
 
 White and pink harmonize. 
 
 White and brown harmonize. 
 
 Black and white, a perfect harmony. 
 
 Black and orange, a rich harmony. 
 
70 THE SCIENCE OK ART OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 Black and maize harmonize. 
 
 Black and scarlet harmonize. 
 
 Black and lilac harmonize. 
 
 Black and pink harmonize. 
 
 Black and slate-color harmonize. 
 
 Black and brown, a dull harmony. 
 
 Black and drab, or buff, harmonize. 
 
 Black, white, or yellow, and crimson harmonize. 
 
 Black, orange, blue, and scarlet harmonize. 
 
 Flounces should be made of such materials namely : muslin, 
 gauze, or barege, as are calculated to be flexible and impart to 
 the wearer the appearance of a receding angel or a dissolving 
 view ; they should not flop or be stifl, and break the flowing lines 
 of the petticoat, or throw light and shade where they ought not 
 naturally to appear. 
 
 Of all the arcana or mysteries of the Science of Dressing, in 
 few do American ladies offend more against the rules of artistic 
 skill, than in the tasteful and becoming manner of wearing a 
 shawl. Shawls, instead of being worn uniform on both sides, 
 and the patterns straight up and down, should be worn up one 
 shoulder and down the other, or in some way drawn irregularly, 
 so as to break the uniformity. Nothing is more picturesque than 
 a line across the bust. On this account the long scarf shawl is 
 as picturesque an appendage as a lady can wear, with the broad 
 pattern sweeping over one shoulder, and a narrow one, or none 
 at all, on the other. It supplies the eye with that irregularity 
 which drapery requires ; while the slanting form and color of the 
 border, lying carelessly round the figure, gives that eastern idea 
 which every shawl more or less implies. 
 
 With respect to the choice and form of bonnets, the rules may 
 be thus briefly stated. 
 
 A narrow face should have a bonnet with the front well exhibit- 
 ing the lower part of the cheeks. On the other hand, a broad 
 face should have a closer front ; if the jaw is wide, the appearance 
 may be diminished by bringing the corners of the bonnet sloping 
 to the point of the chin. Bound faces should have the bonnet 
 brought forward so as to cover part of the cheek. When the 
 neck of a party is long, the neck of the bonnet should descend, 
 and the neck of the dress rise. A short neck should have the 
 whole of the bonnet short and close in the perpendicular direc- 
 
THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 71 
 
 tion, and the neck of the dress should be neither high nor wide. 
 
 When the complexion is too yellow, yellow round the face re- 
 moves it by contrast, and causes the red or blue tinges that may 
 have been introduced, to predominate ; lilac or any shade of pur- 
 ple around the face would increase the yellow cast. "When too 
 much red predominates red round the face removes it, and causes 
 the yellow or blue appendages to predominate. "When too much 
 yellow and red predominate, then bjue removes it by contrast, 
 and the yellow and red predominate. "When too much yellow and 
 red predominate, then orange is to be used by way of contrast. 
 When too much red and blue, then purple. When too much blue 
 and yellow, then green. As the linings of bonnets reflect their 
 their color on the face, and transparent bonnets transmit their 
 color, and tinge the countenance, fair complexions are aided by 
 the contrast produced by light colors, and dark faces by darker 
 colors. To pale faces, the application of yellow would by con- 
 trast produce a livid hue ; that of red, a green hue ; and that of 
 blue, a sallow hue. White and black best suit pale complexions. 
 
 We must not omit a very important observation respecting the 
 change of colors by the light. A female may be dressed with 
 exquisite taste, and appear charming in the daytime ; but, at 
 night, the effect is totally different, and this enchanting dress is 
 totally eclipsed at the theatre or the ball. Another is charming 
 at night, her taste is extolled. Delighted with these praises, she 
 resolves to show herself abroad, and her toilette is detestable. 
 To what is this owing ? To the choice or the assortment of the 
 colors ? 
 
 Thus crimson is extremely handsome at night ; but if it bo 
 substituted for rose-color, all its charms are lost by gaslight ; 
 but this crimson, seen by day, spoils the most beautiful complex- 
 ion ; no color whatever so completely strips it of all its attrac- 
 tions. Pale yellow, on the contrary, is often very handsome by 
 day, but at night it appears dirty, and tarnishes the lustre of the 
 complexion. At gas-light, those colors should always be chosen 
 which are adapted to add brilliancy to the complexion. 
 
 Jewelry and ornamental flowers are not only elegant but at- 
 tractive. Pearls are specially adapted for fair complexions, as 
 are also turquoises ; sapphires, emeralds, or rubies are more fa- 
 vorable to dark skins. Jewelry, however, should not adorn the 
 
72 THE SCIENCE OB ART OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 neck and the bosom, or even the hands that are defective either 
 in color or symmetry ; as instead of imparting an additional 
 charm, they draw the attention of the beholder to the defects, 
 and though the simple wreath of roses, the jessamine, the snow- 
 drop, the lily of the valley, the violet, the primrose, the myrtle, 
 the ranunculus, and a long train of Nature's sweets, offer them- 
 selves at the shrine of Female Beauty, and gracefully harmonize 
 with its charms and loveliness, and that a single rose or flower 
 disposed in tasteful ambush is often very effective — wreaths of 
 flowers should not be interwoven with teiir of a bad color. Feath- 
 ers sparingly employed produce a good effect when they harmon- 
 ize with the dress. Furs should never be worn unless richly ; 
 shabby economical cat's furs look like all poor affectations, very 
 contemptible. 
 
 Such are the rules and canons for the tasteful display and ad- 
 justment of dress. But though taste and judgment in the choice 
 and adjustment of dress, and a correct knowledge of the princi- 
 ples which ought to guide the adaptation of the various parts of 
 the female costumes to the style and character of the wearer, are 
 necessary for the full and effective display of beauty, it should be 
 recollected, that too studied an attention to dress — too formal a 
 display of its attractions — tend to weaken and impair its effect, 
 and to leave but an indifferent impression on the mind of the 
 beholder of the judgment of the wearer. Showy or exaggerate 
 dressing and a multiplicity or a tasteless assortment of artificial 
 decorations, and tinsel and trumpery of all kinds, destroy the 
 Poetry of Beauty, and have the effect of inducing the belief, that 
 the wardrobe of the body is of more valne in the estimation of 
 the wearer than the wardrobe of the mind and heart. " A sweet 
 disorder," or in prosaic language an apparent inattention "in 
 the dress," often produces a much higher effect than the most 
 studied and scrupulous conformity to rule and fashion. 
 
 DRESS FOR ELDERLY LADIES. 
 
 Dress, to be appropriate and becoming, should be suited to 
 the age of the wearer ; nothing is more unbecoming than anach- 
 ronism in the adornment of the person. How often has the de- 
 sire to enjoy perpetual youth and beauty betrayed a sensible 
 woman into a ridiculous assumption of the dress ancTdecorations 
 
THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 73 
 
 becoming only females in the morning of life, or the spring of 
 youth. But how destructive of all feminine influence and at- 
 tractions are pretentions so ill-judged. They are like putting 
 wretched daubs of pictures in rich and magnificent frames- The 
 seasons of life should be arranged like those of the year ; that 
 is, an appropriate style of dress, — a harmony between the ma- 
 terials and the fashion of the apparel and the age of the wearer, 
 is as necessary as that spring-tide should be decked in all the 
 gayety and loveliness of Nature, while autumn is clad in a more 
 sober and less dazzling livery. It has been well said, that anach- 
 ronism in as destructive of all female grace and dignity, as an- 
 achronism in date is destructive of all reliance on historical au- 
 thority. Can there be a more ridiculous exhibition of character, 
 than to see the wrinkled and waning fair one bedecked in the 
 light and lucid apparel, the lightly-flowing drapery, and the ten- 
 der or the bright and brilliant colors of the youthful or the bridal 
 beauty ? or concealing those indiscreet witnesses of the rapid 
 progress of years — those outward and visible signs of the cruel 
 ravages of unsparing Time and "the crime of old age" — grey 
 hair, and wrinkles, under the cloak and mantle of tendrilled 
 locks and the flowing and undulating tresses of the youthful 
 beauty, in which Love delights to sport and revel ? Luxuriant 
 ringlets gracefully waving over the wrinkles of age and decrepi- 
 tude, serve any purpose than to impart an interest to the " worse- 
 for-wear ladies " in appearance. At that season of life it is nat- 
 ural to prefer seeming maidenly to seeming matronly. 
 
 Lastly, though it is becoming in Women to attend to the em- 
 bellishment of their persons, yet an inordinate degree of care is 
 unbecoming, if not reprehensible. Instead of giving an unre- 
 strained indulgence to her "passion for dress," every sensible 
 and well disposed Woman will endeavor to curb the excesses of 
 " each revolving mode of fashion," with which she is, from her 
 statio^. in life, obliged to comply, and will so contrive to abbreviate 
 the duties of The Toilette, that they should not trench on the 
 time that should be devoted to the useful and necessary avoca- 
 tions of life, and the cultivation and embellishment of the mind, 
 — pursuits that constitute " the genuine charms " of womankind, 
 and which are the best calculated of all the Sex's "magazine 
 of arms" to " win the castle of the heart." 
 
74 THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING "WELL. 
 
 gentlemen's DEESS. 
 
 Some years ago a lady thus discanted upon the outward ap- 
 pearance of the Lords of Creation. 
 
 " The male costume," " is reduced to a mysterious combination 
 of the inconvenient and the unpicturesque, which, except in the 
 light of a retribution, it is puzzling to account for. Hot in sum- 
 mer, cold in winter, useless either for keeping off rain or sun — 
 stiff without being plain — base without being simple — not dur- 
 able, not becoming, and not cheap. Man is like a corrupt bor- 
 ough ; the only way to stop the evil, has been to deprive him of 
 his franchise. He is no longer even allowed the option of mak- 
 ing himself ridiculous. Not a single article is left in his ward- 
 robe with which he can make an impression — a conquest is out 
 of the question. Each, taken separately, is as absurd as the 
 emptiest fop could have devised, as ugly as the staunchest Puri- 
 tan could have desired. The hat is a machine to which an im- 
 partial stranger might impute a variety of useful culinary pur- 
 poses, but would never dream of putting on his head. His stock 
 looks like a manacle with which he has escaped from prison, or 
 his cravat like a lasso with which he has been caught in the act. 
 His shirt collars are execrable and entitled to the German appel- 
 lation of water-moderin (father-murderers or cut- throats.) His 
 coat is a contrivance which only covers half his person, and does 
 not fit that ; while his waistcoat, if a straight one, would be an 
 excellent restraint for one who can contentedly wear the rest of 
 the costume. Each article, in addition, being under such strict 
 laws, that whoever attempts to alter, or embellish, only gets credit 
 for more vanity than his fellows, and not for more taste." 
 
 The above applies, with perhaps less force to male costume 
 now than it did then. But materially we are still the same. The 
 trousers, how#ver fitted for bustling and quick motion, are un- 
 graceful, and serve only to expose an ill- formed leg, or«to con- 
 ceal a good one. Nevertheless, certain rules and maxims may 
 be of service to our readers, even in this ungraceful age. 
 
 Let us begin with hats. Of these we have little to say, and 
 that little is not in their favor. The " section of a funnel," as 
 it has been called, which, covers our heads, is both inconvenient 
 and ugly. We beg all our male and female readers to endeavor 
 
THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 75 
 
 as far as possible to remedy this injury, by voting in favor of 
 some other head dress. The slouch felt hats which are worn in 
 the country are infinitely to be referred. 
 
 The hat covers the forehead, which in all cases adorns the face* 
 People who observe, know that when actors wish to represent a 
 villain, they let fall a mass of hair over the forehead, which at 
 once gives them a hang-dog look. The hat should, on the con- 
 trary, cover little of the forehead ; yet, if worn at the back of 
 the head — it gives a feeble expression. The hat should not be 
 too tall, and should not be thrust too far over the eyes. Men 
 with thin faces should choose hats with somewhat narrow brims. 
 Those with fat round faces, those with broad brims. Little men 
 should never, (though unfortunately they always do so,) wear 
 tall coverings for the head ; the effect being, that their faces seem 
 almost in the centre, midway betwixt the top of the hat and the 
 ground. 
 
 Of the color of the hat little can be said, black being prevalent, 
 and used for "dress." White hats only suit men of very bril- 
 liant fair, or dark brown complexions. To surroand a white hat 
 with a black band, seems to us to set at defiance good taste, and 
 to approximate to the " black-guard." In shape, hats should be 
 near the prevailing fashion ; anything outre, or new in shape, 
 draws the attention of the crowd, and makes a man remarkable. 
 
 The coat may be of every variety of color, the quieter the bet- 
 ter. In morning dress, those rather elegant, and certainly com- 
 fortable coats which are like shooting-jackets, may be also worn. 
 For the evening, however, only the ugly "dress" coat can be 
 put on in society. 
 
 In choosing the colors of ordinary and walking costume, the 
 same rules should be adhered to which are given for the ladies. 
 Thus a stout man will inevitably increase his apparent size by a 
 light coat and waistcoat ; and a small man will diminish his size 
 by wearing black. The rule to be deduced from this is plain. 
 
 Checks, cross-bars, and other large patterns, should naver be 
 used. If indulged in they should be adapted to the motion of 
 the wearer's person. Horizontal stripes crossing the person are 
 not admissible in garment fabrics, — the pattern quarrels with all 
 the motions of the human figure, as well as with the form of the 
 long folds in the skirt of the garment. 
 
76 THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 For the same reason, also, " large and pronounced checks, are, 
 however fashionable, in bad taste, and interfere with the grace- 
 ful arrangement of drapery." 
 
 These hints "upon stripes and bars apply more especially to 
 trousers, where bars across the leg seem to hinder a free motion, 
 and bars running down the leg at once discover any unfortunate 
 curve which it may possess. 
 
 Trousers have one advantage, they hide large feet. Those who 
 have such, can easily take away the appearance resulting from it, 
 by having the bottom of the trousers enlarged- Small feet are, 
 if too small, as much a deformity as when too large. 
 
 The cravat and collar should be within the fashion, not to the 
 extreme of it. The collars which are now worn by some young 
 men are ridiculous, and must be very uncomfortable. The cra- 
 vat should be, for evening dress, black or white ; in the morn- 
 ing, of a color, which although subdued, suits the complexion of 
 the wearer. It should be loosely tied, for nothing is moue in- 
 jurious than keeping the throat heavily wrapped up. 
 
 The few maxims which follow, partly original and partly modi- 
 fied from other writers, are general. Some of them apply to 
 either sex: — 
 
 The shirt of a gentleman should be of fine linen. The front 
 plain, not worked, nor ornamented in any way. Studs may be 
 worn ; they should be very good or very plain — fine brilliants or 
 plain ivory or pearl. Colored stones in studs are vulgar. 
 
 It is not economical to have the dresses or garments made in 
 the extremity of fashion, because such are remarkable, and soon 
 fall out of date. The fashion should, however, be followed at 
 such a distance that the wearer may not attract the epithet of 
 old-fashioned. 
 
 The style of dress should be adapted to the age of the wearer. 
 As a general rule, in youth the dress should be simple and ele- 
 gant. In middle age, the dress should be of richer materials, 
 and more splendid in character. In the decline ©f life, the ma- 
 terial may be rich, but the colors should be subdued, and the 
 whole costume simple, quiet, and dignified. 
 
 Nothing can be more mistaken than a passion for what is called 
 " finery." "A persons manner," says Shenstone, "is never 
 easy whilst he feels a consciousness that he is fine. The young 
 
THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 77 
 
 farmer, considered in some lights, appears genteel ; but it is not 
 when he is dressed on Sundays, with a large nosegay in his bosom . 
 it is when he is reaping, making hay, or when he is hedging in 
 his burden frock, — it is then he acts with ease, and thinks him- 
 self equal to his apparel." 
 
 Dress should never appear the effect of too much study or ap- 
 plication. "When the labor to produce the effect is seen in a 
 marked manner, the wearer is a fop. 
 
 A man's dress, in the former part of his life, should tend to 
 set off his person, rather than to express riches or rank. In the 
 latter, the reverse. 
 
 Shakespere, whose authority on almost every point is of the 
 
 highest value, gives the following terse and concise rule for style 
 
 and quality of dress, from the mouth of a wise counsellor and 
 
 courtier — 
 
 " Costly thy habit, as thy purso can "buy, 
 But not expressed in fancy ; rich, not gaudy." 
 
 Nothing is more distinctive of a vulgar mind; than finerytout of 
 place, or ignorantly chosen. Therefore, the habit is to be cost- 
 ly "as thy purse can buy," that is, as one can afford, but not 
 gaudy or remarkable, 
 
 A man of a moderate and denned income, is not only guilty of 
 folly, but also of dishonesty, if he wears finer and more expen- 
 sive clothes than he can afford. Although far from recommend- 
 ing a distinctive dress for each class — the age being too far ad- 
 vanced for that barbarism — yet we would particularly caution the 
 poor man from aping, beyond his means, the dress of the rich. 
 
 Foppery is not confined to the youth of man, but also extends 
 itself to that of nations. No fops or dandies of Paris, or London, 
 are more particular about their dress, than the Sioux Indian about 
 the disposition and brilliancy of his war-paint ; so both ancient 
 and modern travelers assure us. Foppery may therefore be taken 
 as a sure sign of weakness or vacuity of mind. 
 
 " We cannot," says Chesterfield, M help forming some opinion 
 of a man's sense and character, from his dress. All affectation 
 in dress implies a flaw of the understanding. Men of sense care- 
 fully avoid any particular character in their dress ; they are ac- 
 curately clean for their own sake, but all the rest is for the sake 
 of other people." 
 
78 THE SCIENCE OB ART OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 A man should dress in the same style as the society in which 
 ho moves. If he dress more than they, he is a fop ; if he dress 
 less, he is unpardonably negligent. "Of the two," says Ches- 
 terfield, "a young fellow should be rather too much than too lit- 
 tle dressed; the excess of that side will wear off with a little age 
 and reflection." 
 
 Women are the best judges of men's dress, and generally men 
 (of sense) of women's. 
 
 A negligence of dress is an impertinence which society will 
 not tolerate. 
 
 When once dressed for the day, we should think no more of it 
 afterwards ; and, without any stiffness for fear of discomposing 
 that dress, we should be as easy and natural as if we had no clothes 
 on at all. 
 
 Lastly, the end of dressing is to be considered not to be the 
 foolish adornment of the body, for the purpose of vanity or dis- 
 play of greater riches than our neighbors possess. It has for its 
 purpose our defence against the elements, and the inclemencies 
 the seasons, and our comforts. It is capable of much beauty, 
 and also of the elevation of the mind even, when properly used. 
 The dignified dress of a Portia, or a Lucretia, must always have 
 been widely distinguished from that of a Lais or a Phryne. Of 
 old times the philosopher was distinguished by his cloak and 
 beard, the warrior by his martial surcoat, the senator and the 
 citizen by their toga and flowing mantles. With us these dis- 
 tinctions, injurious to Christianity and subversive of brotherly 
 unity, have been done away with, and to a large extent we ail 
 dress alike. Let it therefore be our care, since that alone re- 
 mains for us, to express that outwardly in our garments, which 
 we should wear inwardly in our minds, — calmness, gentleness, 
 and quiet feeling, mixed with no violent contrasts or foolish fan- 
 cies. Let us as m en be manly ; as women, be womanly and grace- 
 ful, let each garment be suitable to its purpose, and when we 
 have achieved this, let us rest satisfied that our actions do not 
 belie our dress, and then we shall have attained that which so 
 many strive after, and be attired as Ladies and Gentlemen. 
 
THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 79 
 
 HOW TO ACQUIRE THE PROPER AND GRACEFUL CARRIAGE OF THE 
 
 PERSON. 
 
 If it be true, as Lord Bacon tells us, that the principal part of 
 beauty consists in graceful motion and carriage of the person, 
 it is certainly worth attention to ascertain the best methods of 
 attaining a graceful and becoming air, gait, and deportment. 
 Even all the value and interest that intellectual attainments and 
 the most consummate beauty can impart to character are in- 
 calculably heightened by ease and gracefulness of deportment ; 
 but how often are the most consummate attractions marked by 
 an awkward and an inelegant deportment : a want of graceful 
 ease of movement and manner. A severe air and a haughty or 
 majestic demeanor injure the effect of womanly beauty. Lucian 
 represents the God of Love frightened at the masculine air of 
 Minerva. 
 
 Consistent disposition or deportment of the person is at least 
 as important to the concerns of life as consistency and propriety 
 of language ; indeed, it is more than questionable whether the 
 former has not been found more generally successful in making 
 favorable impressions : a well regulated, pleasing, and interest- 
 ing gesticulation and demeanor tending to accomplish suddenly 
 what would require time and a more intimate acquaintance to 
 effect by the medium or intervention of language. 
 
 But the first thing to be considered, in endeavoring to acquire 
 the best disposition in the deportment or carriage of the person, 
 is the original intention and bias of Nature in the conformation 
 and pliancy of the form : 
 
 " First follow Mature, and your judgment frame, 
 "By her just standard, which is still the same." 
 
 Each style of personal beauty has a distinct character : the 
 deportment and carriage must therefore be adapted and bear af- 
 finity to the character of the form and figure. The air and de- 
 meanor becoming a "Woman of delicate proportions — of a nymph- 
 like ethereal form, and in the spring of life, would ill-become a 
 woman in the meridian of life — of a dignified and majestic mien, 
 and of large propoitions. In ancient sculpture and painting, 
 the forms and proportions of the features and the gesture and 
 carriage differ according to the character represented and the 
 
80 THE SCIENCE OR ART OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 emotion wished to be excited. The form and proportions in the 
 features of Juno, and her bearing and demeanor, are very differ- 
 ent from those of Venus ; those of Minerva from those of Diana ; 
 those of Niobe from those of the Graces. All, however, are 
 beautiful, because they are all adapted with exquisite taste to the 
 character the artists wished the countenance to express. Beauties 
 of an undetermined character must regulate their deportment 
 according to the rules of good taste and the peculiarity of their 
 figures. 
 
 Another rule of importance to be observed is, that the carriage 
 or deportment should not be overcharged ; for as simplicity is 
 the perfection of dressing, and the opposite style causes a de- 
 traction from personal appearance, so it is in the case of the car- 
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 lating description. The gracefulness of the serpentine and curved 
 line of motion is well illustrated in the following line of Shak- 
 speare, the poet of the finest taste in female charms . 
 
 ''"WTien you dance, I wish you aware o' the sea." . 
 
Indispensable to the Success of the Public SpeaKer and Debater. 
 
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 THE MAGICIAN'S GUIDE; 
 
 OR, 
 
 CONJURING- MADE EASY. 
 
 Numerous books have been published professing to teach the Art of 
 Magic, but without exception they have proved a delusion, being merely a 
 compilation of disconnected experiments, often to the discouragtment and 
 disgust of the aspirant. 
 
 This work is written by a celebrated Magician, prompted with the honest 
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 of his art. In this he has been eminently successful. By a series of lessons, 
 aided by illustrations, he has thoroughly explained and elucidated the 
 principles of the science, and takes the learner through the whole field of 
 
 MAGIC, LEGERDEMAIN, and PRESTIDIGITATION, 
 
 INCLUDING TRICKS IN 
 
 Galvanism, Magnetism, and Electricity. 
 
 It gives also full and explicit directions for conducting an evening's entertain- 
 ment, with a series of tricks and performances especially adapted for the 
 amateur. 
 
 Any one who desires to be the sought and honored guest at every party, 
 amusement, or entertainment, should not fail to possess this book, by which 
 he can become in a short time as marvelous and mysterious as any of the 
 great magicians and conjurors of the day. 
 
 Illustrated by Many First-Class Engravings, 
 PR8CE-25 CEMTS. 
 
 THE BLACK ART EXPOSED! 
 
 THE GREAT CHINESE WIZARD'S 
 
 HAND-BOOK OF MAGIC, 
 
 A BOOK OF WONDERS AND MYSTERIES UNVEILED. 
 
 It tells how to perform the most wonderful tricks, experiments and feats 
 that have always and will ever continue to excite wonder, admiration, and awe 
 in those who behold them. Among the wonders disclosed is the celebrated 
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 hibits the 
 
 Wonders of Nature Magic Wonders of Coin-handlingWonders of Sleight of hand 
 Wonders of Chemistry Wonders of White Magic Wonders of Jugglery 
 Wonders of Electricity Wonders of Galvanism Wonders of Mechanics 
 Card Manipulation Wonders of Magnetism Wonders of Figures 
 
 Wonders of Legerdemain. 
 All adapted and explained for the amusement and delight of the homo circle. 
 It also contains THE ART OF MAKING FIREWORKS. 
 
 Printed on good paper, in a handsome illuminated cover. 
 
 PR8CE-20 CENTS. 
 
 Sent by mail to any addross on receipt of price. 
 
Indispensable to the Success of the Public Speaker and Debater. 
 
 m 
 
 Klocution Made Kasy. 
 
 This is a book that cannot bo too highly recommended to those who are 
 ambitious to appear iu public, whether in the Legislature, Church, Town 
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 from errors and false habits, and point out the best and proper methods t 
 attaiu a good delivery, with ease, elegance, and fluency of speech. 
 
 Among the matters treated of are the following; 
 
 How to acquire the Orotund. 
 
 Th8 Guttural and Aspirate Qualities. 
 
 Management of the Mouth and Nose, 
 
 Practicing the Voice, Loudness, Diet. 
 
 Management of the Breath. 
 
 Parsing, Pitch. 
 
 Time or Movement. 
 
 Articulation. 
 
 Stammering and Stuttering, 
 
 Pronunciation, the Aspirate, 
 Letter B, Accent, Emphasis. 
 Tone> Blank Verse. 
 Rhymed Verse, 
 Dramatic Reading, 
 Action. 
 
 Facial Expression. 
 Silent Practice. 
 Recitation, Imitation, 
 
 All that is necessary for teaching any one to become a proficient orator is 
 plainly and cleariy expressed. 
 
 PRSCE-20 CEBITS. 
 
 JL^i 
 
 "MANNERS MAKE THE MAN." 
 
 Bashfulness Cured. 
 
 EASE AND ELEGANCE OF MANNER QUICKLY GAINED. 
 A book thousands of our young men will welcome with joy. It tells them 
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 It tel\3 how to overcome natural diffidence. 
 
 It tells how to cure bashfulness in ail its forms, whether caused by lack 
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 A graceful, pleasing, and dignified bearing; 
 
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 It tells how to dress cheaply and elegantly. 
 How to be attractive by attention to personal habits. 
 How to please greatly, by delicate flattery of eye and manner. 
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 How to bo well informed and well cultivated. 
 How to be popular with the ladies. 
 Also, to the debilitated it tells what to use to become strong and vigorous. 
 
 PRSCE, OftSLY 20 CEMTS. 
 
 Sent to any address on receipt of price. 
 
A DOLLAR BOOK FOB TWENTY CENTS. 
 
 OF 
 
 , FICTIOI, AID MIME 
 
 A RARE TREAT FOR 
 
 Lovers of the Romantic, the Marvellous, and the 
 Astounding 
 
 Each one is full of absorbing interest. There is not a dull or ineipid line 
 in the whole five books. Every page gleams -with incidents of love and pas- 
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 PRICE 20 CENTS EACH. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 TERENCE TIERNEY , ADMIRAL 
 
 This work, by the celebrated HANOI, has received the endorsement of 
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 *'Ould Terence Tierney." . ... 
 
 THE CABIN BOY: 
 
 A TALE OF THE WIDE OCEAN. 
 
 BY CAPTAIN L. C. KINGSTON. 
 
 Since the advent of *' Hobinson Crusoe," we will venture to say that no 
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 Sent by matt, to any address, on receipt of prices. 
 
No. 3. 
 
 THE PEEP O'DAY BOYS; 
 
 Or, Wild Life on the Mountains 
 
 BY M. BANIM. 
 
 To those who have been so fortunate as to secure the first number of £his 
 series—and their name is legion— the mere announcement of Banim's name, 
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 has excelled himself. Every page teems with fun, fights, and frolic of such a 
 character as none but the light hearted sons of Erin can indulge in. Whoever 
 fails to read the " Peep O'Day Boys," will miss a great literary luxury. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 CAPTAIN DOE, 
 
 The Mountain Chief. 
 
 BY JOHN BANIM. 
 
 This is a novel which for entrancing interest has never been surpassed. 
 The thrilling incidents and romantic adventures, the heroic deeds and das- 
 tardly actions, interspersed with some tender love scenes, show a keen insight 
 into the Irish character. The marvellous adventures of Captain Doe, at 
 once the terror and pride of the mountains, are detailed in Banim's most 
 charming language. By all means get this book. 
 
 No. 5. • 
 
 Clerk Barfon's Crime; 
 
 Or, THE MYSTERIES OF A NIGHT. 
 A Tale of New York Life, High and Low. 
 
 BY STEELE PENN. 
 
 In an experience of over twenty-five years as reader for the weekly press, 
 and gleaner of manuscripts for eminent publishing houses, the writer of this 
 announcement honestly asserts that no story equal in power and originality to 
 Clebk Barton's Chime has ever passed through his hands. The plot is well 
 laid, and our hero carried through numberless striking scenes, exemplifying 
 the old adage that " True love never did run smooth." There are mysteries of 
 this great city exposed that, to those who are unacquainted with city life, 
 would never dream of such things existing. 
 
 Bemember, these are all new books, by well-known talented authors, men 
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 They are the efforts of gifted writers, " tried and true." 
 
 For 20 Cents you can procure a book worth one dollar, both as regards 
 quality an quantity. - 
 
 Sent by mail, to any address, on receipt of price. 
 
The Best "Work ca th3 Horse Ever Published. 
 THE 
 
 HORSE-OWNER'S GUIDE, 
 
 AND 
 
 COMPLETE HOUSE-DOCTOK. 
 
 This is a book that should be in the hands of every one who 
 owns, works, or cares for a horse. It is a book that is needed — 
 simple, concise, comprehensive, reliable, and practical — giving 
 the fullest and best information on all matters that relate to this 
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 How to Select and Purchase a Horse. 
 Stable Management. 
 Condition. 
 
 General Arrangement of Stables. 
 Simple Rules for Shoeing. 
 
 Management of the Fest cf Horses. 
 
 Causes of Disease, and it3 Prevention. 
 Breaking and Training of Horses. 
 Physiology of the Horse. 
 Breeding. 
 
 Care of Sucking Colts. 
 The Mare for a Farmer. 
 
 Diseases of Horses, Etc., Etc., Etc. 
 
 In preparing this work, the writer has provided for every pos- 
 sible exigency that may occur in the horse's career. The part 
 devoted to the Diseases of the Horse is especially worthy of 
 admiration, from its clearness, pointedness, and absence of un- 
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 study, than months of reading through a dozen volumes, each 
 costing three times the price of this. 
 
 The book is handsomely printed on good paper, illustrated 
 with two very fine double-page engravings, representing the 
 points of a horse and the diseases of the horse. 
 
 PRICE— FIFTY CENTS. 
 Sent by mail to any address on receipt of prioe. 
 
THE AMATEffB PAINTER. 
 
 A MANUAL OP INSTTJCTION IN THE ARTS OP 
 
 PAINTING, VARNISHING, AND GILDING 
 
 "With plain Rules for the practice of every department of House and Sign 
 Painting. 
 
 Colors, and How to Mix Them— Compound Colors— Oils— Varnishes— Polishes 
 —Gilding Materials— Miscellaneous Materials — Grinding and "Washing 
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 ishing and Polishing — Practice of Gilding— Instructions of Sign "Writing 
 —Harmony of Colors— Birds-Eye Maple in Distemper— Satin Wood— Ma- 
 hogany in Distemper— Mahogany in Oil— Rose W^ood. 
 This book is thorough in detail in every branch of Painting. By its aid 
 
 every man can become his own Painter, in whatever kind of work he desires 
 
 to undertake. Price 25 Cents, 
 
 THE AM ATEUR PRINTER. 
 
 A work that should be in the hands of every one who desires to know 
 anything about the art of Printing. It gives full instructions in all matters 
 relating to the Setting of Type, enabling any one to become a proficient 
 Printer. Fully Illustrated, rrice 25 Centi, 
 
 THE ART~Q F VEfT JILOqUIgM. 
 
 Containing simple and full directions by which any one can acquire this 
 amusing art. With numerous examples for practice. Also, instructions for 
 making the Ma^ic Whistle, for imitating birds, animals, and peculiar 
 sounds of various kinds. Any boy who wishes to obtain an art by which he 
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 for Twenty-five Cents, while we will mail the book and method of making the 
 Magic Whistle for only 1 5 Cents# 
 
 ORACULUM AND COMPLET E BOOK OF FATE. 
 
 This is the celebrated Oracle of Human Destiny consulted by Napoleon 
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 ful in war, business and love. It is the only authentic and complete copy ex- 
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 Egyptian manuscript, found in 1801, by M. Sonnini, in one of the royal tombs 
 near Mount Lybicus, in Upper Egypt. A curious work. Mailed for 15 Cts. 
 
 THE COMPLETE 
 
 Fortune-Teller and Dream Book. 
 
 This book contains a Complete Dictionary of dreams alphabetically ar- 
 ranged, with a clear interpretation of each dream, and the Lucky Numbers that 
 belong to it. It includes Palmistry, or Telling Fortunes by the Lines of the 
 Hand ; Fortune-Tellmg by the Grounds in a Tea or Coffee Cup ; How to Read 
 your Future Life by the White of an Egg ; tells How to Know who your Future 
 Husband will be, and how Soon You will be Married ; Fortune-Telling by 
 Cards; Hymen's Lottery; Good and Bad Omens. Mailed for 15 Cents, 
 
 HOW TO TALK AND DEBATE. 
 
 A really valuable book, and one that every man anS woman, boy and girl, 
 ■ihould possess. Mailed for 1 5 Cents. 
 
An Invaluable Work on Practical rnd Amateur Taxidermy. 
 
 THE 
 
 TAXIDERMIST'S GUIDE; 
 
 OR, 
 
 THE ART OF COLLECTING, PREPARING, MOUNTING, 
 
 AND PRESERVING ALL KINDS OF ANIMALS, 
 
 BIRDS FISHES, REPTILES, INSECTS, Etc. 
 
 This is a truly valuable and indispensable work for the use of 
 the Naturalist, Traveler, and Amateur, or any one who delights 
 in observing the interesting and multifarious products of Na- 
 ture. It gives plain directions for skinning, stuffing and mount- 
 ing all animals, from a mouse to an elephant. Also how to 
 Catch, Skin, Preserve, and Mount all kinds of Birds, both land 
 and water. Also 
 
 The Best Method of Preserving Birds' Nests and Eggs. 
 
 IT TEACHES THE ART OF 
 
 SKINNING, PRESERVING, AND SETTING UP REP- 
 TILES, FISHES, AND MOLLUSCOUS ANIMALS, 
 
 including Tortoises, Turtles, Crocodiles, Lizards, Serpents of all 
 kinds, Frogs, and Toads. It also gives the best methods of Col- 
 lecting, Preserving, and Polishing all kinds of Land, Marine and 
 Fresh Water Shells ; the art of 
 
 Breeding and Bearing Insects, and Preparing Skeletons, 
 
 including a number of the best receipts used by the most emi- 
 nent Taxidermists of Europe for various articles used in the 
 preservation and setting up of animals. 
 
 Illustrated by Many Pirst-Olass Engravings. 
 
 PRICE— 30 CENTS. 
 
 Sent by mail to any address on receipt of price. / 
 
THE BEST WORK ON DOMESTIC MEDICINE EVER GIVEN T3 THE WORLD. 
 
 OUR Q X7C 1ST 
 
 FAMILY DOOTOE, 
 
 AND COMPLETE MEDICAL ADVISER. 
 
 Containing every known fact that can 
 PROMOTE HEALTH, CURE DISEASE and PROLONG LIFE. 
 
 "We claim — nay, we are certain, that we can present you with a Book, 
 that will prevent your falling into ill Health, if you are now 
 
 well; ond restore you to entire Health, if unfortunately Disease 
 lias already fixed, her Tangs into your system. There is nothing per- 
 taining to the body but what is explained and laid bare, so that the most 
 illiterate can easily understand every line. 
 
 There is not an Ailment whether a slight headache or a raging 
 fever — "that flesh is heir to" — but what is treated of in a plain but philo- 
 sophical manner ; the CAUSES are clearly traced— the CURE as plainly 
 indicated. 
 
 THE SKIN. 
 
 •' An immense amount of advice is given in the portion of this work that is 
 devoted to an exposition of the nature, qualities and action of the SKIN, 
 in health and disease. Every important point in relation to all and every 
 disease that the epidermis is liable to, will be found fully and clearly explained 
 here. 
 
 THE HEAD, BRAIN AND NERTES. 
 
 Unusual pains have been taken by the author, to lay before the intel- 
 ligent reader, every item of information that the faculty is in possession of, 
 in regard to the formation, the use, and the abuse of this noble portion of 
 the human body. 
 
 THE EYE. 
 
 It is of immense importance that each person in the world should be able 
 to "see for himself," how the organs of vision are constructed, what their 
 powers are, what their defects, and how these powers can be preserved, and 
 these defects repaired. Accordingly, in this work, we furnish the reader with 
 all the information known to the best instructed oculists of the present day. 
 
 THE EAR. 
 
 The Ears possess much beauty naturally and can bo improved some in 
 appearance, by care and attention. They are subject to many diseases, near- 
 ly all of which are susceptible of alleviation, some of them of complete cure. 
 This work goes thoroughly into the subject of the various complaints, and 
 their cures. 
 
 THE NOSE. 
 
 Nothing makes or mars <: the human face divine'' so much as the beauty or 
 deformity of the NOSE. But apart from the appearanceof this feature, it 
 has important functions to perform in the human economy. It is a great 
 auxiliary to the mouth, in the act of respiration, and contributes largely to 
 our pleasure by giving us the faculty of smelling. Nothing is so offensive as 
 many complaints to which the nasal organs are liable. But, fortunately nearly 
 everyone of these complaints CAN be cured, and this book shows how. 
 
 THE FACE, LIPS, MOUTH, JAWS, TEETH and GUMS. 
 
 How absolutely necessary that everything appertaining to the face should 
 be carefully studied aud closely examined. While the external appearanco 
 of each organ should be a subject of care and attention, still greater care and 
 attention should be bestowed upon the insidious diseases that so often cor- 
 rode the teeth, canker the mouth, chap the lips, and render the breath — 
 which should be scented ' 'like new-mown hay" — foul and offensive to all who 
 come in contact with it. 
 
 THE THROAT, NECK and WINDPIPE. 
 
 Probably one-third of the deaths, in the United States are occasioned, di- 
 rectly or indirectly, by diseases of respiratory organs. A slight hoarseness, 
 or soreness of the throat or nostrils, occasions a little uneasiness; but these 
 are too often the avant couriers of bronchitis, dyptheria or consumption. A 
 careful study of this division of " Our Own Family Doctor " will enable tho 
 
OUR OWN FAMILY DOCTOR— Continued. 2 
 
 reader to at once arrest tlie progress of these insidious ministers of death. 
 We do not only show the Disease, but we disclose the Cures. 
 
 THE LUNGS. 
 
 Nothing upon the face of the earth so well repays investigation as the Lungs. 
 Upon the more or less perfect manner in which they perform their duties, 
 depends whether life is a source of happiness or misery, a curse or a blessing. 
 Hence the necessity of warding off disease, if possible, and repairing its dire 
 and often rapid ravages, when once it has become seated. In this work, wo 
 have given much space and great attention to this branch of physiology and 
 anatomy. 
 
 THE HEART. 
 
 HEART DISEASE is, unfortunately, dreadfully prevalent in our 
 country. Not a little of its frequency is to be attributed to the fact that so 
 few really understand the nature and intent of the heart's action. But, after 
 reading what this work has to say upon the subject of the formation, actiona 
 and functions of the HEART, no one can remain without a thorough 
 knowledge of the grand part performed dy this divine piece of machinery. 
 Iti3 to the body, what the sun is to our universe, the source of heat and 
 life. 
 
 THE ABDOMINAL CATITY. 
 
 Of course no person can guard against inflammations, colics, and the varied 
 complaints caused to these organs by colds, bad or illy cooked food, unless he 
 or she thoroughly understands the formation and duties to be performed by 
 the various organs situated in the Abdominal Cavity. 
 
 THE URINARY and GENITAL ORGANS. 
 
 Upon the healthy working of these very important organs, depend not 
 only the existence- of life, but much of its pleasures. Consequently there 
 has been the most careful digest made of the opinions of all the great au- 
 thorities ; and every alleviative or remedial measure is clearly explained. 
 
 THE GENERAL SYSTEM. 
 
 To gain a full and perfect acquaintance with the form and structure of the 
 human body, is a prime necessity to every intelligent individual. It has been 
 the aim in this portion of "Our Own Family Physician," to describe every 
 part of the GEJVERAIi SYSTEM, that persons of both sexes and every 
 condition of health may easily understand for themselves the first insidious 
 approaches of disease of any and every kind. 
 
 DISEASES OF WOM^N. 
 
 "In pain and sorrow shalt thou bring forth children." Since this mandate 
 was uttered, terrible, indeed, have been the sufferings of woman, and the 
 greatest minds have devoted years of study in earnest endeavors to alleviate 
 and lessen these intense pains. Other, and numerous, ills combine to rob 
 woman's cheek of its bloom, and her heart of happiness. "Our Own Family 
 Doctor" goes thoroughly into an examination of every species of disease that 
 afflicts girlhood and womanhood. 
 
 CHILDREN AND THEIR CARE. 
 
 In this division of "Our Own Family Doctor," are given clear, concise* 
 plain directions for the management of infants, from the moment that they 
 draw their first breath. Nothing is omitted that can possibly enlighten and 
 inform the mother or the nurse as to the prompt and right method of pro- 
 ceeding in every possible emergency. 
 
 DISEASES OF CHILDREN. 
 
 From whatever causes, it is, unfortunately, but too true, that our country 
 —blessed in so many ways— is not a fortunate one for babes. That much of 
 the mortality is preventable is known, well known, and it is the design of this 
 section of "Our Own Family Physician," to teach those having the care of 
 children, how they can bring them up free from illness or deformity; or, if 
 negligence or ignorance have already sown the dreadful seeds of sickness or 
 malformation, it is our mission to cure the one and counteract the other. 
 
 ACCIDENTS AND EMERGENCIES. . 
 Hovr to Treat Them at a Moment's Notice. 
 These are events occurring daily, nay almost hourly, in every family, that 
 «' '1 for instant and efficient precautions cr remedies to prevent very injur- 
 ious, if not fatal, consequences. In the portion cf this book devoted to thi.* 
 
OUR OWN FAMILY DOCTOR— Continued. 3 
 
 class of cases, will be found the fullest and most reliable information that 
 has ever been collected. It includes everything relating to prompt and effi- 
 cient action. 
 
 HYGIENE. 
 
 Instructions to Preserve Health, Vigor, and Ensure Long Life. 
 Much of the contents of this division is entirely new. It is hardly too 
 much to say that any individual who promx^tly and persistently follows out 
 the directions given in this invaluable treatise on HYGIENE, may pass 
 from youth to extreme old age, exempt from all the * 'thousand ills which flesh 
 is heir to." 
 
 YOUTH OF BOTH SEXES. 
 General Observations Regarding the Young, and the Duty of Parents and Guardians. 
 This department is the most important of what we believe to be a very 
 important work. The author has approached the subject here treated of. with 
 a full consciousness of the vital necessity of telling everything in a plain but 
 delicate manner. Very many of the wretched marriages, that lead so often to 
 hasty divorces, are caused by the fact, that neither the husband or wife, have 
 ever been properly trained or instructed as to the duties and rational enjoy- 
 ments of the state into which they had so rashly ventured. Many— alas, how 
 many — of the poor wrecks, mental and physical, that drift through life aim- 
 less, purposeless, miserable, owe all their troubles to the fact, that their nat- 
 ural guardians never took the slightest trouble to warn them of the rocks and 
 whirlpools, that so thickly beset the voyage of life. Habits are contracted 
 during the plastic period of life, that become in after years as firm as marble. 
 If parents and other guardians of the young, of both sexes, will but care- 
 fully read this portion of "Our Own Family Doctor," they will at once see 
 how neglectful of the best interests of their growing families they have been ; 
 at the same time they will learn the most judicious methods of arresting the 
 course of pernicious habits that leads as certainly to destruction and death, 
 as frost leads to ice. 
 
 FOR THE ESPECIAL PERUSAL. 
 
 Of Youth of Understanding, as well as for that of Parents and Guardians. 
 It is our aim in this section to open the eyes of both the guardian and the 
 guarded, so that they can clearly see what are the besetting sins of youth; 
 and at the same time learn how to prevent the formation of evil and destruc- 
 tive habits, and how to conquer and cure them. 
 
 COLDS. 
 
 How to Avoid and How to Cure. 
 As the mightiest oaks spring from the tiny acorn, and the vast river from 
 the smallest rill, so do the most serious and fatal diseases originate from the 
 slightest cold. Hence the absolute necessity of being able to discover ; by the 
 first symptoms, the nature and extent of the complaint, and the remedies 
 most simple and yet certain to effect a speedy and permanent cure. 
 
 COMMON QUESTIONS ANSWERED. 
 
 Eating, Sleeping, Occupations, Baths, The Passions, Dress, Drinking, and Personal Beauty. 
 
 In this latter department are introduced not only all the well-known recipes 
 and information, but all the very important new discoveries, which have ren- 
 dered the toilet so powerful in increasing female loveliness and beauty. 
 
 Not only has the Author dwelt at length upon all the greater brandies 
 of the subject, but he has shown the effects, beneficial or hurtful, 
 of man3 r seemingly minor habits and indulgences that go far to make or 
 mar physical health and vigor, and to produce ugliness or beauty of face and 
 form. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. INVALUABLE INFORMATION. 
 
 Consumption, Cod Liver Oil, Fatty Pood. 
 TAider this heading will be found a vast amount of information, such as 
 could not be otherwise obtained if one were to search through an hundred 
 "wordy" books on medical subjects. The result of all this careful and per- 
 sistent research is rendered into plain common sense, so that any individual 
 can make himself complete master of the whole subject, and takfi the proper 
 means to prevent or arrest that fearful scourge of our race— Consumption. 
 
4 OUR OWN FAMILY DOCTOR— Continued. 
 
 COOKERY FOR THE SICK ROOM. 
 
 There will be found plainly set forth the very best method of preparing 
 every kind of appetizing and strength- giving food. 
 
 INDICATIONS OF DISEASE. 
 
 This is one of the most vitally important parts of this great book. It shows 
 how the presence of any serious disease may be immediately detected. It is 
 impossible to carefully study this division of our book without becoming qual- 
 ified to decide instanter as to whether the patient is threatened with dropsy, 
 pneumonia, bronchitis, ci oup, apoplexy, mania, delirium tremens, or any 
 other complaint. To have such an infallible monitor in the house is worth 
 ten times more than the price of this work. 
 
 MEDICINES. 
 
 Their Preparations and Doses, Prescriptions, Receipts. 
 This portion of the book conveys to the intelligent reader the most approved 
 methods of extracting the active principle of every description of herb, root, 
 gums, minerals, that are employed as remedial or alterative agents. The 
 natures, powers and effects are all set forth ; and the proper doses and 
 modes of prescribing are given so plainly that mistakes are impossible. 
 
 PRESCRIPTIONS. 
 
 In this part of the work will be found the most extensive as well as the 
 most correct collection of Prescriptions that have ever been gathered in one 
 volume. This unequalled lot of Prescriptions is taken from the most reliable 
 works devoted to this subject, collected from the recipes of our most cele- 
 brated chemists, or such as have been handed down in families noted for the 
 possession of private recipes that have proved very valuable. 
 
 BOTANICAL MEDICAL PRACTICE. 
 
 This section we devote to the exposition of that important branch of the 
 healing art known as the Botanical or Herbal. Certain it is that*many very 
 wonderful cures are daily made by the use of some of the most simple 
 herbs. Any intelligent person knows how useful, how absolutely necessary 
 it is to have a work of this kind in the house. Accidents, Sickness and 
 Death, are constant visitors at every household. This work tells what to do 
 at the instant all through the long catalogue of human accidents and sick- 
 nesses. It is emphatically a medical guide fer the Million. 
 M OUR OWN FAMILY DOCTOR » 
 
 Is so unique and handsome, that merely as an ornament for a fine book- 
 case or a parlor table, it i« surpassed by no work published. 
 
 It is printed on fine spotless, glossy, calendered paper, made expressly for 
 it. The Binding is exceedingly fine, noticeable alike for its strength, 
 durability and great beauty ; it contains over 600 large octavo pages, and is 
 illustrated with one hundred and thirty-one engravings, most accurately exe- 
 cuted from Drawiugs of unusual fidelity and excellence. 
 
 TERMS OF 
 
 • « OUR OWN FAMILY DOCTOR. " 
 
 Elegantly Bound in English Cloth, Beveled Boards, S3. 50. 
 
 " *• Fine Leather, Library Style,. . $4.50. 
 
 The work is sold exclusively by agents, to whom we offer the most liberal 
 terms, old agents state it is the fastest selling book they ever handled, and 
 with our large inducements, money can be more rapidly made than at any 
 ether thing offered. If an agency is desired, send stamp for our confiden- 
 tial circulars with the towns or county you want. 
 
 To introduce the book, a. sample copy will be sent postage free to any 
 address on receipt of the price, $3,50. 
 
 Address, HURST & CO., 
 
 746 BROADWAY, N. F. 
 
New and Popular Books. 
 
 Tricks and Diversions with Cards. 
 
 An entirely new work, containing all the Tricks and Deceptions with Cards 
 ever invented, including the latest tricks of the most celebrated Conjurors, Magi- 
 cians and Prestidigitators, popularly explained, simplified and adapted for Home 
 Amusement and Social Entertainments. They aro so elucidated that any one 
 with a littlo practice, can perform the most difficult tricks, to his own sat- 
 isfaction and to the wonder and admiration of his friends. There is also a com- 
 plete exposuro of all tho Card Tricks made use of by Professional Card Players, 
 Blacklegs and Gamblers. It also contains tho art of Fortune Telling by Cards. 
 Illustrated by many engravings. Price, 30 cents. , 
 
 The Magician's Guide, or Conjuring Made Easy. 
 
 A complete Manual of Instruction in the art of Magic, by a celebrated Profes- 
 sional. This book will bo largely sought for by all who desire to becomo ac- 
 quainted with the Mysteries of Magic, and to make their mark in social amuse- 
 ments or public entertainments. This book is not a compilation of discon- 
 nected experiments, but a regular systematic course of instruction, beginning 
 at the simplest feats of Legerdemain, and by a series of progressive lessons 
 takes the learner into the moro complicated operations of Natural Magic, Chem- 
 istry, Galvanism, Magnetism and Electricity. It is the only work published 
 that really teaches the Conjuror's Art. Illustrated by numerous engravings. 
 Price, 25 cents. 
 
 The Great Chinese Wizard's Hand-Book of 
 Magic. 
 
 A Book of Marvels. The Mysteries of the Black Art are now exposed. The 
 mysterious and awe-inspiring feats and performances of the most celebrated 
 Magicians, Enchanters and Wizards are here explained, including the operations 
 of Conjurors of Ancient and Modern Times. The most amazing and apparently 
 most wonderful impossibilities in Natural Magic, Chemistry, Galvanism, Elec- 
 tricity, Cards, Jugglery, Coins, Legerdemain, White Magic, &c, are made quite 
 clear, so that any one can perform them. It also contains the art of making Fire 
 Works. Price, 20 cents. 
 
 [Sent by mail to any address on receipt of price. 
 

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