Ll.USTR/\T|i LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE CONTAINING A DESCRIPTION OF EVERYTHING ON OR ABOUT THE BERMUDA ISLANDS CONCERNING WHICH THE VISITOR OR RESIDENT MAY DESIRE INFORMATION, INCLUDING ITS History, Inhabitants, Climate, Agriculture, Geology, Government, Military and Naval Establishments. FULLY ILL US TRA TED with MAPS, engravings, AND SIXTEEN PHOTO-PRINTS. BY /' JAMES H. STARK. BOSTON: >,^^_ Photo-Electrotype Co., Publishers. Bermuda: S. NELMES. / Copyright, 188". By JAMES H. STARK. Z-%0- Published, Illustrated and Printed by the Photo-Electrotype Co., Boston. PREFACE. In presenting this Guide Book to the public the compiler has been actuated by the desire of intro- ducing to the notice of those unacquainted with the Bermuda Islands, some of the many attractions to be found there, how to reach the islands, their resources and productions ; the best houses of entertainment for those seeking a quiet, winter home ; a brief history of the discovery and settlement of the is- lands ; the manners and customs of the inhabitants ; and a complete index and guide to all points of interest in Bermuda. Every work that it was possible to obtain on this subject has been consulted, and the information con- tained therein embodied in this work, much of the matter is compiled from such authorities as Smith's *' General Historic of Virginia, New England and the Summer lies ;" "Memorials of the Discovery and Early Settlement of the Bermudas," by Sir J. H. Lefroy; "Bermuda, Past and Present," by John Ogilvy ; "The Visitor's Guide to Bermuda," by J. Matthew Jones; "The Bermuda Almanack," and many other works too numerous to mention. The photographs were taken by the author on gelatine dry plates, during the month of January and February, 1884. The prints from the negatives were made by the Photo-Electrotype Co., of Boston, by their process of photo-mechanical printing. Vi PREFACE. This work is not intended as a history, although it contains several valuable articles that will be found of great historical interest and value. The author was led to publish this work, after his return from a brief visit to Bermuda, during the wmter season, and although he had seen many lovely spots in his travels, yet the glorious beauty of these islands was a revelation to him. The many hills clothed in perpetual verdure, set in a trans- parent sea, the great profusion of flowers, and, as far as the eye could reach, one stretch of unbroken bloom and verdure were unsurpassed. Here rose the tall shaft of a stately palm, there the spreading fans of the palmetto, and the slender spires of the sway- ing bamboo, with many other tropical trees and shrubs. Now you drive over a hard smooth road, winding through the most picturesque scenery, and every new view that bursts upon you is a surprise. It is needless to say more, only that the writer hopes to visit Bermuda again, the quiet restful life, the wondrous beauty of a land so different to the one we northerners inhabit, all make such a welcome change from our busy life at home. ILLUSTRATIONS. St. George's Market Place, Frontispiece. Map of the Bermuda Islands, following page 15' Map showing Position of Bermiuha, Great Sound, from Gibbs' Hill Cedar Avenue, U. S. Consulate, Front Street, Sir George Somers' Portrait, Hog Money, .... Ancient Map and Views of Bermuda, Onion and Strawberry Field, American Conaul's Residence, Governor's Residence, Mount Langton Ruins of Trinity Church, Ordinance Island, Bermuda Coral Reefs, Chimney of House Buried in Sand, North Rock, .... Entrance to Convolvulus Cave, India Rubber Tree, Hamilton, .... Gru Gru Palms, IVIount Langton, . Paw Paw Trees, Clarence Hill, Ducking Stool, Cocoanut Palms, Woodlands, Mahogany Tree, Flatts Village, Devil's Hole, .... "West View from St. George's Hill, St. George's and Ordinance Island, St. David's Lighthouse, Spanish Rock Inscription, Natural Swamp Vegetation, . Gibbs' Hill Lighthouse, Bermuda Yacht, "Undine," PAGE. 11 17 15 25' 32,: 35' 59" 65 69 75 79 85 87 88 91 94 95 99 101 104 105 111 114 121 125 129 133 137 141 149 INDEX TO TEXT. PAGE. Agar's Island, .... 102 Agriculture, . . .57, 58, 61 American House, ... 19 American Consul, . . 67, 110, 113 American Revolution, . . 44,54 Assembly, House of, . . 94 Bennett, Governor, . . 42 Bermuda, Description of, . 9 Bermuda Colonist, Newspaper, 156 Bermudian, The, Newspaper, 156 Bermutla, The, Newspaper, . 157 BermudaGazette, Newspaper 154, 1P,5 Bermuda, History of. Blockade Runners, Blue Hole, Brackish Pond, Browne, Governor, Bruere, Governor, Butler, Governor, Brunswick House, Cabbage Palms, Caldicot, Charles, Camber, Camelo, Ferdinand, Castle Island, . 20 55 120 138 53 51 34 19 138, 139 30 82, 148 20, 133 131 PAGE. Castle Harbor, . . . 131, 132 Causeway, . . . 120, 123 Caves, .... 92,93,119 Clarence Hill, . . 100, 102, 103 Climate, .... 5.5,56,57 Commerce, . . .57, 58, 61 Company, Somers Island, . 29 Convicts, .... 81,82 Coopers Island, . . . 132 Cook, Governor of Rhode Island, 44 Coral Reefs, . . . .84,85 Crawl Point 113 Custom House, ... 97 Customs and Manners, 64, 67, 68 Cunard Steamship Company, 10 Darren's Island, ... 153 Description of Bermuda, . 9 Devils Hole, . . 113,114,115 Devonshire Bay, . . • 136 Devonshire College, . . 136 Devonshire Parish Church, . 138 Dingey Club, .... 152 Dock, Floating, ... 83 Ducking Stool, . . 104,107 Education, . . . .72,73 VI 11 INDEX. Elis Harbor, Fairy Land, Fern Island, Flatt's Village, Flatt's Harbor, Fort's Albert, and St. George's Gates, Sir Thomas, . Gallows Island, Geologj^ . . . . Gibbons Bay, . Gibbs' Hill Lighthouse, . Globe Hotel, . Government, Grassy Bay, Grace Island, . Great Sound, . Gurnet Rock, . Hamilton, . . 1 Hamilton House, Hamilton, Governor, Hamilton to St. George'.-^;, Harrington Sountl, . Hearn Bay, H istory of Bermuda, Hog Money, Hungry Bay, . Indian Slaves, . Inhabitants, . . (i Ireland Island, . Islands in the Sounil, Kendall, Deputy Governor King's Castle, . Lefroy, Governor Lighthouse, Long Bird Island Lunatic Asylum, May, Henry, Manners and Customs Massachusetts, . Mangroves, Mangrove Bay, Mahogany Tree, Melbourne House, Middle Road, . Military and Navy, Mirror, Newspaper, Mount Langton, Moore, Tom, Moonedyne, Moses Island, . Model Farm, Mullet Bay, Navy and Militarj^, Newport. Captain. New Era Newspaper, Negro Slaves, . Nonsuch Island. North Road, Norwood, Richard North Rock, Ordiance Island, Paget Church, . PAGE. 145 . 67, 100 154 109 110 Catherine, Victoria 12:5, 124, 127 24 108, 109 84 to 93 108 143 19 68, 71, 72 147, 148 153 148, 153 131 93, 94, 97 . 16,19 103 110, 113 143 20 31 136 31, 40, 62 62, 63, 64 146, 147 81, 153, 154 34 128, 143 120, 131 128 144 123 136 21 64, G7, 68 40, 52, ,53, 54 102, 136, 139 145 109 19 136 74 to 83 97, 157 100 118 148 153 134, 135 123, 124 74 to 83 24 157 31, 40, 62 131 104, 113 30, 100, 136 . 87,88 124 139 PAGE. 102 115, 116, 117, 118 136 Paw Paw trees, Payntej' Vale, . Paynter'sHill, Pembroke Church, Peniston's Pond, Point Share, Port's Island, . Powder Conspircy, Powell, Captain, Pirates, Press in Bermuda, Public Buildings, Public Library, Quebec Steamship Company, Reach, The, Reid, Governor, Religion, . Revolution, American Ricket Island, , Richer, Governor, . Routes, Pleasure, 103, 132 Royal Bermuda Yacht Club Royal Eugineer Quarries Royal Gazette, . Sand Hills, Sessions House, Seymour, Governor, Shark's Hole, . Slaves, Smith, Captain John, Smith's History, Smith's Marsh, Smith's Church, Somers, Sir George, South Road, Somerset, • Somerset Church, . Southampton Island, Southampton Church, Spanish i'oint, . Spanish Rock, . St. George Hotel, . St. George's, St. David's Island, . Steamship Companies, . . 10 Stagg's Rocks, . . 103, 113 Stock's Point, .... 120 Times and Advocate, . , 157 Tucker, Governor, ... 31 Tucker Town, ..." 117 Turuer, Governor, . ' 40 Turk's Island, .... 43 Union Line Steamers, . . 10 Villa Mount Clair, . . 67, 113 Washington, General, . 44 to 50 Warwich Church, ... 140 AValshingham, . . . . us Wells, The, . , . 107, 108 Wentwortli, Captain, . • 41 Woodlands, . . . io4 Wreck Hill, . . . '. 145 Yacht Club, . . 151, 152, l.j.3 115 104 132, 134 103 154 43 to 51 31, 32 41, 42 154 94 97 10 120 98, 135 73, 74 54,78 1.53 42 138, 148 151 140 155 139 94 41 117 31 37 37 135, 136 134 24, 127, 128 132, 133 144, 145 145 131 144 103 133, 134 19 124 to 128 128 Stark's Illustrated BERMUDA GUIDE GENERAL DESCRIPTION. The singular collection of islands known as Ber- muda or the Bermudas, are situated about seven hundred miles from New York in a southeast direc- tion, and about the same distance from Florida, or from Bermuda to Cape Hatteras — the nearest land — the distance is 625 miles. Within sixty-five hours' sail from New York it is hardly possible to find so complete a change in gov- ernment, climate, scenery and vegetation, as Ber- muda offers, and yet these islands are strangely unfamiliar to most well-informed Americans. Speaking our own language, having the same origin, with manners, which in many ways illus- trate those prevalent in New England a century ago, the people are bound to us by many natural ties, and it is only now that these islands, having come to the front as a winter resort, have led us to inquire into their history and resources. Settled in 161 2, Virginia only of the English colonies 10 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED outdatingit, life in Bermuda has been as placid as its lovely waters on a summer day ; no agitation of sufficient occurrence having occurred to attract the attention of the outside world, from which it is so absolutely isolated. Having for some years desir- ed to visit Bermuda, and deeming this a fitting op- portunity, we consulted the various routes leading there, which will be inserted for the benefit of our readers. The Quebec Steamship Co., under contract with the Bermuda government, dispatch the new steamer Orinoco every alternate Thursday from New York and Hamilton, Bermuda. During the crop season, in the months of April, May and June, an additional steamship is placed on the line. Fare for the round trip, including state-room, berth and meals, $50.00. The agents of the company are A. E. Outerbridge, 51 Broadway, New York; Trott & Cox, Front Street, Hamilton, Bermuda. General Office, Que- bec, Canada. The Cunard Company have a monthly service between Halifax, Bermuda, Turks Island and Jamaica, under contract with the Admiralty. The steamers at present on this route are the Alpha and the Beta. The agents are S. Cunard & Co., Hali- fax, Nova Scotia; J, M. Hayward, St. George's, The Union Line dispatch a steamer every four weeks from Baltimore to Liverpool, via Bermuda. Agents, A. Schumacher & Co., No. 5 S. Gay Street, Baltimore ; John Scott ; No. 53 Broadway, New York; S, S. Ingham, Jr., Hamilton, Ber- 12 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED muda. This last line offers special inducements to parties visiting Europe, as they can stop over a steamer at the islands either going or returning, be- sides the passage is much more pleasant this way in the winter season to Europe, than by the more northern routes. We decided to go on the Orinoco, and it certainly was a striking change in the scenes that our voyage of sixty-five hours brought to us. When we left New York at 3 P. M. on a Thursday, the ground white with snow and a raw northeast wind blowing, and on Sunday morning at sunrise we were floating on a glassy, tropic sea close to the islands. The negro pilot comes out and scrambles up on deck and we thread our way through the narrow passage between the coral reefs, skirting the whole length of the islands, to the opening into Hamilton harbor. The delight of reaching land is intensified by the beauties which are spread out on every hand. The wonderful transparency of the water, the numerous islands, making new pictures at every turn, the shifting light on the hills, the flowers, which almost hide the houses that peep out here and there from their bowers, make up a scene as rare as it is beau- tiful. The scenery presented was a strange combi- nation of tropic and northern aspects, dense woods of cedar cover all the islands, and at times one would be willing to stake their life they were sail- ing by the shores of Cape Ann or were in Casco Bay or at Mt. Desert, but the white gleam of the Spanish looking houses, the waving plumes of a ^^rMVdA GtltDM. 15 palm here and there, and the transparent color of the water beneath would contradict the statement at every turn. Tropic, indeed, in one sense, these islands are. No frost ever visits them. The palm, banana, orange, lemon, paw-paw, India rubber tree, with a profusion of flowers and vines, U. S. CONSULATE, FRONT STREET. only seen in our northern greenhouses, flourish here. And so, making our way slowly through the labyrinth of islands, a sudden turn brings us into the pretty, land-locked harbor of Hamilton, which is the capital and principal town of Bermuda. The arrival of the steamer has been heralded bv the customary -signals — a flag from the Government house at Mt. Langton. The news has been tele- graphed all over the island, and the crowd ofpeople on the wharf indicates the interest attached to the le STARK'S ILLtJSTRATED arrival of the steamer. The majority of the people collected there are colored, with a sprinkling of men well-to-do and English in appearance, while the presence of the British soldier suggests the fact that this is one of England's strongholds. The steamer comes to just opposite Front street, which is the principal business street of the town. Along, shed-like structure, built of corrugated iron, stretches along the wharf, affording a comfortable shelter for men, boys and freight. The street is bordered by Pride-of-India trees, affording an agreeable shade on one side, while stores with ver- andas in front, unpretending in appearance, border the other side. The streets are hard, smooth, and white, made of the coral rock which abounds every- where and of which the islands are composed. There are several hotels in the town, the best of which, the Hamilton House, was opened in 1852, and is the property of the Corporation of Hamilton. It is held under a twenty-year lease by the estate of the late J. W. Dodge, formerly the proprietor of the Tip Top House, Mt. Washington. The Hamilton House is now under the management of C. G. Emmons, formerly of the Crawford House, N. H. The hotel is situated on a high hill overlooking the town and commanding a view of the harbor and surrounding country. Long verandas stretch across the front from which one obtains delightful views of the hills beyond, clothed with cedar and dotted with white" houses. Flowers bloom in front of the BERMUDA GUIDE. 19 house, and the Oleander, red, pink and white, hne the path, leading up the hill. The air, free from im- purities and laden with the perfume of flowers, is de- licious, and is a joy to breath. As we did not secure rooms in advance we found everything occupied, the hotel was overflowing, many having to sleep on cots in the parlor. However, we fortunately secured accommodations at the Bruns- wick House, Mr. Turnbull, the proprietor, having reserved a room for a party that was expected on the steamer but did not come, and although not so pre- tentious a place as the Hamilton, yet it is far more quiet and homelike, and Mrs. Turnbull knows how to set an excellent table, which counts for con- siderable in Bermuda. The Brunswick House is situated off Cedar Avenue, the finest street on the island. There are several other good hotels, such as the American House, at the foot of the hill, on which the Hamilton House stands, conducted by Mr. Harnett, formerly associated with the late J. W. Dodge, also the Melbourne House, Pariiment street. Good board can be obtained at Mrs. B. N. Stone's, East Park street, and at the Scarborough House, H. F. Con- yers, proprietor. One of the best boarding houses out of town is at Jacksville, two-and-a-half miles from Flatt's village, kept by W. S. Peniston. At St. George's are the Globe and St. George's hotels, at both of which accommodations can be secured at moderate rates. There will probably be a large hotel erected at the Flatt's during the coming sea- 20 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED son, capable of accommodating about five hundred guests. This would be of great advantage to the island. Before describing the many attractions of Ber- muda we will examine briefly the history of these islands, their production, inhabitants, customs, cli- HISTORY. The Bermudas were first discovered in 15 15 by a Spanish vessel, called La Garza, on a voyage from Spain to Cuba, with a cargo of hogs, and com- manded by Juan Bermudez, and having on board Gonzalez Oviedo, the historian of the Indies, to whom we are indebted for the first account of these islands. They approached near to the islands and from the appearance of the place concluded that it was uninhabited. They resolved to send a boat ashore to make observations, and leave a few hogs which mightbreed andbe afterwards useful. When, however, they were preparing to debark a strong contrary gale arose which obliged them to sheer off" and be content with the view already obtained. The islands were named by the Spaniards indifferently. La Garza from the ship and Bermuda from the cap- tain, but the former term is long since disused. It does not appear that the Spaniards made any attempt to settle there, although Philip II. granted the islands to one Ferdinand Camelo, a Portuguese, who never improved his gift, beyond taking posses- BERMUDA GUIDE. 21 sionby the form of landing in 1543, and carving on a prominent cliff on the southern shore of the island the initials of his name. and the year, to which, in conformity with the practical zeal of the times, he superadded a cross, to protect his acquisition from the encroachments of roving heretics and the devil, for the stormy seas and dangerous reefs gave rise to so many disasters as to render the group exceed- ingly formidable in the eyes of the most experienced navigators. It was even invested in their imagina- tion with superstitious terrors, being considered as unapproachable by man, and given up in full domin- ion to the spirits of darkness. The Spaniards there- fore called them ''Los Diabolos,"the Devil's Islands. These islands were first introduced to the notice of the Enghsh by a dreadful shipwreck. In 1591 Henry May sailed to the East Indies along with Captain Lancaster, on a buccaneering expedition. Having reached the coast of Sumatra and Malacca, they scoured the adjacent seas, and made some valuable captures. In 1593 they again doubled the Cape of Good Hope and returned to the West Indies for sup- plies which they much needed. They first came in sight of Trinidad but did not dare to approach a coast which was in possession of the Spaniards, and their distress became so great that it was with the utmost difficulty that the men could be prevented from leav- ing the ship. They shortly afterwards fell in with a French buccaneer commanded by La Barbotiere, who kindly relieved their wants by a gift of bread and provisions. Their stores were soon again 22 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED exhausted, and, coming across the French ship the second time, application was made to the French captain for more supplies, but he declared that his own stock was so much reduced that he could spare but little, but the sailors persuaded themselves that the • Frenchman's scarcity was feigned, and also that May, who conducted the negotiations, was re- gailing himself with good cheer on board without any trouble about their distress. Among these men, inured to bold and desperate deeds, a company was formed to seize the French pinnace, and then to cap- ture the large vessel with its aid. They succeeded in their first object, but the French captain, who ob- served their actions, sailed away at full speed, and May, who was dining with him on board at the time, requested that he might stay and return home on the vessel, so that he could inform his employers of the events of the voyage, and the unruly behavior of the crew. As they approached Bermuda, strict watch was kept while they supposed themselves to be near that dreaded spot, but when the pilot de- clared that they were twelve leagues south of it, they threw aside all care and gave themselves up to carousing. Amid their jollity, about midnight, the ship struck, with such violence that she immedi- ately filled and sank. They had only a small boat, to which they attached a hastily constructed raft to be towed along with it, room, however, was made for only twenty six while the crew exceeded fifty. In the wild and desperate struggle for existence that ensued, May fortunately got into the boat. They had BERMUDA GUIDE. 23 to beat about nearly all the next day, dragging the raft after them, and it was almost dark before they reached the shore ; they were tormented with thirst, and had nearly despaired of finding a drop of water when some was discovered in a rock where the rain waters had collected. The land was covered with one unbroken forest of cedar, here they would have to remain for life unless a vessel could be constructed. They made a voyage to the wreck and secured the shrouds, tack- les and carpenters' tools, and then began to cut down the cedars, with which they constructed a vessel of eighteen tons, for pitch they took lime, rendered adhesive by a mixture of turtle oil, and forced it into the seams, where it became hard as stone. During a residence of five months here May had observed that Bermuda, hitherto supposed to be a sin- gle island, was broken up into a number of islands of different sizes, enclosing many fine bays, and forming good harbors. The vessel being finished they set sail for Newfoundland, expecting to meet fishing vessels there, on which they could obtain passage to Europe. On the nth of May they found themselves with joy clear of the islands ; they had a very favorable voy- age, and on the 20th arrived at Cape Breton. May arrived in England in August, 1594, where he gave a description of the islands; he stated that they found hogs running wild all over the islands, which proves that this was not the first landing made there. U STARil'S ILLUStRAt&t) It was owing to a shipwreck that Bermuda again came under the view of the English, and that led England to appropriate these islands. In 1609, during the most active period of the colonization of Virginia, an expedition of nine ships, commanded by Sir Thomas Gates, Sir George Somers and Captain Newport, bound for Virginia, was dispersed by a great storm. One of the ves- sels, the Sea Adventure, in which was Gates, Somers and Newport, seems to have been involved in the thickest of the tempest. The vessel sprung a leak, which it was found impossible to stop. All hands labored at the pumps for life, even the governor and admiral took their turns, and gentlemen who had never had an hour's hard work in their life toiled with the rest. The water continued to gain on them, and when about to give up in despair, * Sir George Som- ers, who had been watching at the poop day and night, cried out land, and there in the early dawn of morning could be seen the welcome sight of land. Fortunately they lighted on the only secure entrance through the reefs, the vessel was run ashore and wedged between two rocks, and thereby was preserved from sinking till by means of a boat and skiff the whole crew of one hundred and fifty, provisions, tackle and stores, reached the land. At that time the hogs still abounded, and these, with * The portrait of Admiral Sir George Somers is from a copy obtained by General Sir J. H. Lefroy, (late Governor of Bermuda), from Miss Bellamy, of Plymouth, who inherited the original from her ancestor, Dr. Bellamy, M. D., who was connected with the . Somers family. BERMUDA GUIDE. 25 SIR GEORGE SOMERS, 26 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED the turtle, birds and fish which they caught, afford- ed excellent food for the castaways. The Isle of Devils, Sir George Somers and party found *'the richest, healthfulest and pleasantest" they ever saw. Robert Walsingham and Henry Shelly discov- ered two bays abounding in excellent fish: these bays are still called by their names. Gates and Somers caused the long boat to be decked over and sent Raven, the mate, with eight men, to Virginia to bring assistance to them, but nothing was ever heard of them afterwards, and after waiting six months all hopes were then given up. The chiefs of the expe- dition then determined to build two vessels of cedar, one of eighty tons and one of thirty. Their utmost exertions, however, did not prevent disturbances, which nearly baffled the enterprise, these were fomented by persons noted for their religious zeal, of puritan principles and the accompanying spirit of independence. They represented that the recent disaster had dissolved the authority of the governor, and their business was now to provide, as they best could, for themselves and their families. They had come out in search of an easy and plentiful subsis- tance, which could no where be found in greater perfection and security than here, while in Virginia its attainment was not only doubtful, but attended with many hardships. These arguments were so convincing with the larger number of the men that, had it rested with them, they would have lived and died on the islands. BERMUDA GUIDE. 27 Two successive conspiracies were formed by large parties to separate from the rest, and form a colony. Both were defeated by the vigilance of Gates, who allowed the ringleaders to escape with a slight punishment. This lenity only emboldened the malcontents and a third plot was formed to seize the stores and take entire possession of the islands. It was determined to make an example of one of the leaders named Payne ; he was con- demned to be hanged, but, on the plea of being a gentleman, his sentence was commuted into that of being shot, which was immediately done. This had a salutary effect, and prevented any further trouble. Two children, a boy and girl, were born during this period, the former was christened Bermudas and the latter Bermuda, they were probably the first human beings born on these islands. Before leaving the islands, Gates caused a cross to be made of the wood saved from the wreck of his ship, which he secured to a large cedar, a silver coin with the king's head was placed in the middle of it, together with an inscription on a copper plate describing what had happened. — That the cross was the remains of a ship of 300 tons, called the Sea Venture, bound with eight more to Virginia; that she contained two knights. Sir Thomas Gates, governor of the colony and Sir George Summers, admiral of the seas, who, together with her captain, Christopher Newport, and 150 mariners and pas- sengers besides, had got safe ashore, when she was lost 28 July, 1609. 28 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED On the loth of May, 1610, they sailed with a fair wind, and, before reaching the open sea, they struck on a rock and were nearly wrecked the second time. On the 23d they arrived safely at Jamestown. This settlement they found in a most destitute condition on their arrival, and it was de- termined to abandon the place, but Sir George Somers " whose noble mind ever regarded the gen- eral ^ood more than his own ends," offered to un- dertake a voyage to the Bermudas for the purpose of forming a settlement, from which supplies might be obtained for the Jamestown colony. He accord- ingly sailed June 19th, in his cedar vessel, and his name was then given to the islands, though Ber- muda has since prevaled. Contrary winds and storms carried him to the northward, to the vicinity of Cape Cod. Somers persevered and reached the islands, but age, anxi- ety and exertion contributed to produce his end. Perceiving the approach of death, he exhorted his companions to continue their exertions for the bene- fit of the plantations, and to return to Virginia. Alarmed at the untimely fate of their leader, the colonists embalmed his body, and, disregarding his dying injunction, sailed for England. Three only of the men volunteered to remain, and for some time after their companions left they continued to cultivate the soil, but unfortunately they found some ambergris, nd they fell into innumerable quarrels respecting its possession. They at length resolved to build a boat and sail for Newfoundland with their prize, BERMUDA GUIDE. 29 but, happily for them, they were prevented by the arrival of a ship from Europe. An extraordinary interest was excited in England, by the relation of Captain Mathew Somers, the nephew and heir of Sir George. The usual exaggerations were pub- lished, and public impressions were heightened by contrast with the dark ideas formerly prevalent concerning these islands. A charter was obtained of King James I., and one hundred and tw^enty gen- tlemen detached themselves from the Virginia com- pany, and formed a company under the name and st34e of the Governor and Company of the City of London, for the plantation of the Somer Islands. On the 28th of April, 161 2, the first ship was sent out with sixty emigrants, under the charge of Rich- ard Moore, who was appointed the governor of the colony. They met the boat containing the three men left on the island, who were overjoyed at see- ing the ship, and conducted her into the harbor. It was not long before intelligence of the discovery of the ambergris reached the governor, he promptly deprived the three men of it. One of them named Chard, who denied all knowledge of it, and caused considerable disturbance, which at one time seemed likely to result in a sanguinary encounter, was condemned to be hanged, and was only reprieved when on the ladder. The governor now applied himself actively to his duties. He had originally landed on Smith's Islands, but he soon removed to the spot where St. George's now stands, and built the town which was named 30 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED after Sir George Somers, and which became, and remained for two centuries, the capital of Bermuda. He laid the foundation of eight or nine forts, for the defence of the harbor, and also trained the men to arms, in order that they might defend the infant colony from attack. This proved necessary, for, in 1614, two Spanish ships attempted to enter the har- bor ; the forts were promptly manned and two shots fired at the enemy, who, finding them better pre- pared than they imagined, bore away. Before the close of 161 5, six vessels had arrived with three hundred and forty passengers, among whom were a marshall and one Bartlett, who was sent out expressly to divide the colony into tribes or shares, but the governor finding no mention of any shares for himself, and the persons with him, as had been agreed on, forbade his proceeding with his survey. The survey was afterward made by Richard Norwood, which divided the land into tribes, now parishes ; these shares form the founda- tion of the land tenure of the islands even to this day, the divisional lines in many cases yet re- maining intact. Moore, whose time had expired, went back to England, in 1615, leaving the ad- ministration of the government to six persons, who were to rule, each in turn, one month. They pro- ceeded to elect by lot their first ruler, the choice falling upon Charles Caldicot, who then went, with a crew of thirty-two men, in a vessel to the West Indies, for the purpose of procuring plants, goats and young cattle for the islands. The vessel BERMUDA GUIDE, 31 was wrecked there, and the crew were indebted to an English pirate for being rescued from a des- ert island on which they had been cast. For a time the colony was torn by contention and discord, as well as by scarcity of food ; the news of these dissentions having reached England, the company sent out Daniel Tucker, as governor. Tucker was a stern, hard master, and he en- forced vigorous measures to compel the people to work for the Company. The provisions and stores he issued in certain quantities, and paid each la- borer a stated sum in brass coin, struck by the proprietor, for the purpose, having a hog on one side in commemoration of the abundance of those animals, found by the first settlers, and on the re- verse a ship. Pieces of this curious hog money, as it is called, is frequently found, and it brings a high price. Shortly after Governor Tucker arrived, he sent to the West Indies for plants and fruit-trees, the vessel returned with figs, pineapples, sugar-cane, plantin and paw-paw, which were all planted and rapidly multiplied. This vessel also brought the first slaves into the colony, an Indian and a Negro. The company dispatched a small bark called the Hopewell, with supplies for the colony, under the command of Captain Powell. On his way he met a Portuguese vessel homeward bound from Brazil, with a cargo of sugar, and, as Smith adds, '^ liked the sugar and passengers so well" he made a prize of her. Fearirg to face Governor Tucker 32 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED after this piratical act, he directed his course to the West Indies. On his arrival there he met a French pirate, who pretended to have a warm re- HOG MONEY. gard for him, and invited him, with nis officers, to an entertainment. Suspecting nothing, he accepted the invitation, but no sooner had they been well seated at table, than they were all seized, and threatened with instant death, unless they surren- dered their prize. This, Powell was, of course, compelled to do, and finding his provisions failing BERMUDA GVIDB. 33 him, he put the Portuguese crew on shore, and sailed for Bermuda, where he managed to ex- cuse himself to the governor. Powell again went to the West Indies pirating, and, in May, he ar- rived with three prizes laden with meal, hides and ammunition. Tucker received him kindly * and treated him with consideration, until he had the goods in his own possession, when he reproached the captain with his piratical conduct, and called him to account for his proceedings. The unlucky buccaneer was, in the end, glad to escape to Eng- land, leaving his prizes in the hands of the gov- ernor. The discipline and hard labor required of the people reduced them to a condition but little bet- ter than that of slaves, and caused many to make desperate efforts to escape from the islands. Five persons, neither of whom were sailors, built a fish- ing boat for the governor, and when completed they borrowed a compass from their preacher, for whom they left a farewell epistle. In this they reminded him how often he had exhorted them to patience under ill-treatment, and had told them how Provi- dence would pay them, if man did not. They trusted, therefore, that he would now practice what he had so often preached. These brave men endured great hardships, in their boat of three tons, during their rash voyage, but at the end of about forty-two days they arrived at Ireland, where their exploit was considered so wonderful that the Earl of Thomond caused them U STARK'S ILL USTRA TBD to be received and entertained, and hung up their boat as a monument of this extraordinary voyage. The governor was greatly exasperated at their es- cape, and threatened to hang the whole of them if they returned. Another party of three, one of whom was a lady, attempted in a like manner to reach Virginia, but were never afterwards heard of. Six others were discovered, before they eifected their departure, and one was executed. John Wood, who was found guilty of speaking " many distasteful and mutinous speeches against the Governor," was also condemned and executed. As there were at that time only about 500 in- habitants on these islands, it would appear from Captain Smith's History, that Tucker hanged a good percentage of them. Many were the com- plaints that were forwarded to England concern- ing the tyrannical government of Tucker, and he, fearing to be recalled, at last returned to England of his own accord, having appointed a person named Kendall, as his deputy. Kendall was disposed to be attentive to his office, but wanted energy, and the company took an early opportunity to relieve him ; this was not very agree- able to the people, but they did not offer any resis- tance. Governor Butler arrived with four ships and five hundred men, on the 20th October, 1619, which raised the number of the colonists to 1000, and at his de- parture three years later, it had increased to 1500. ^Cathertns forte Petnhrohs forte K JCinas CaJleU ANCIENT MAP AND VIEWS OF BERMUDA, PUBLISHED BY CAPTAIN JOHN SMITH IN 1624. ^ I 5iirto\ ^AonlW:lfi A 1 BERMUDA GUIDE. 37 On the 1st of August, 1620, in conformity with instructions sent out by the company, the governor summoned the first general assembly at St. George's for the dispatch of public business. It consisted of the governor, council, bailiffs, burgesses, secretary and clerk. It appears that they all sat in one house, which was probably the ''State House" show on Smith's engraving. Most of the Acts passed on this occasion were creditable to the new legislators. Governor Butler, as Moore had done before him, turned his chief attention to the building of forts and magazines, he also finished the cedar church at St. George's, and caused the assembly to pass an act for the building of three bridges, and then initiated the useful project of connecting together the principal islands. When Governor Butler re- turned to England, he left the islands in a greatly improved condition. But in his time also, there was such frequent mutinies and discontent, that at last "he longed for deliverance from his thankless and troublesome employment." It was probably during Governor Butler's administration that * Captain John Smith had a map and illustrations of the Summer Isle made, for in it we find the three bridges, numerous well-constructed forts and the State House at * Captain John Smith was never in Bermuda, he derived all his information fri;m his opportunities a^ a memher of the Virginia Company, and from correspondence or personal narratives of returned planters. This was his habitual way, as is shown by the number of authorities that he quotes. He probably obtained fhe sketches from which these illustrations were made from Kichard Norwood. 38 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED St. George's. The map and illustrations were published in *' Smith's General Historie of Virginia, New England and the Summer lis" 1624 ; they are of the greatest value and importance, as they show accurately the class of buildings and forts erected on these islands at that early period ; such details even are entered into as the showing of the stocks in the market place of St. George's and the architecture and the substantial manner in which the buildings were constructed is remarkable, especially so when it is considered that previous to 1620 the Puritans had not settled at Plymouth, and it was ten years from that date before the settlement of Boston ; in fact, with the exception of Jamestown in Virginia, the Eng- lish had not secured a foot-hold in North America at the time these buildings and forts were con- structed. There are very few copies of this rare print in existance, even in Smith's history it is usu- ally found wanting, and it was only after consider- able trouble and expense that the writer succeeded in obtaining a reproduction of it. The early history of Bermuda is in many impor- tant points similar to that of New England. Like motives had in most instances induced emigration, and the distinguished characteristics of those people were repeated here. Like the Salem and Boston colonists, they had their witchcraft delusions, anticipating that, how- ever, some twenty years. Christian North was tried for it in 1668, but was acquited. Somewhat later a negro woman, Sarah Basset, was burned at Paget, ( 1 BERMUDA GUIDE, 39 for the same oflence. The Quakers were perse- cuted, by fines, imprisonment, and banishment, by the stern and dark-souled Puritans, who had emi- grated to this place to escape oppression, and to en- joy religious toleration, but were not willing to grant to others, that differed from them in their re- ligious belief, the same privileges as they them- selves enjoyed. The Company discovered by degrees that the Bermudas were not the Eldorado which they had fondly imagined them to be. The colonists were now numerous, and every day showed a strong disposition to break away from the control of the Company. The Company had issued an order for- bidding the inhabitants to receive any ships but such as were commissioned by them. The Com- pany complained against the quality of tobacco shipped to London, as w^ell as the quantity. The people were forbidden to cut cedar without a special license, and as they were in the habit of ex- porting oranges, in chests made of this wood, the regulation operated very materially to the injury of the place. Previous to this order, many homeward bound West Indiamen arrived at Castle Harbor, to load with this fruit for the English market. Whaling was claimed as an exclusive privilege, and was conducted for the sole benefit of the proprietors. Numerous attempts were made to boil sugar, but the Company directed the Governor to prevent it, as it would require too much wood for fuel. 40 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED In consequence of instructions from England Governor Turner called upon all the inhabitants of the islands to take the oath of supremacy and alle- giance to His Majesty, but, as the Puritans had left their native country on account of their republican sentiments, they refused to comply, and the prisons v^ere soon filled to overflowing. The rapid change of afl'airs in England, during the civil war, in which the Puritans were victor- ious, and Cromwell was elevated to the Protec- torship, opened the doors of the prisons, and stopped all futher persecutions, both political and religious. It must be said in favor of the Company, that they had, at an early period, established schools throughout the colony, and appropriated lands, in most of the tribes or parishes, for the maintainance of the teachers. From 1630 to 1660 many negro and Indian slaves were brought to the colony. The negroes from Africa and the West Indies, and a large num- ber of Indians from Massachusetts, prisoners taken in the Pequot and King Phillip's wars. The traces of their Indian ancestry can readily be seen in many of the colored people of these islands at the present time. In October, 1661, the Protestant inhabitants were alarmed by rumors of a proposed combination be- tween the Negroes and the Irish. The plan was to arm themselves, and massacre the whites who were not Catholics. Fortunately the plot was discovered BERMUDA GUIDE. 41 in time, and measures adopted to disarm the slaves and the disaffected. The proprietary form of government continued until 1685, with a long succession of good, bad and indifferent governors. Many acts of piracy were perpetrated, at differ- ent times, by the inhabitants of these islands. In 1665 Captain John Wentworth made a descent up- on the island of Tortola, and brought off about ninety slaves, the property of the governor of the place. Governor Seymour received a letter from him in which he stated that, "upon the 9th day of July, there came hither against me a pirate or sea robber, named John Wentworth, the which overrun my lands, and that against the will of mine owne inhabits, and shewed himself a tyrant, in robbing and firing, and took my negroes from my Isle, be- longing to no man but myself. And likewise I doe understand, that this said John Wentworth, a sea robber, is an indweller with you, soe I desire that you would punish this rogue, according to your good law. I desire you, soe soon as you have this truth of mine, if you don't of yourself, restore all my negroes againe, whereof, I shall stay here three months, and in default of this, soe be assured, that wee shall speake together very shortly, and then I shall be my owne judge." This threatening letter caused great consternation, and immediately steps were taken to. place the col- ony in the best posture for defense, reliance being had on the impregnability of the islands, instead of 42 STARK'S ILLUSTrATBD delivering up the plunder, especially, as Captain Wentworth held a commission from the governor and council, and acted under their instructions. Isaac Richier, who became governor of the col- ony in 1691, was another celebrated freebooter. The account of his reign reads like a romance. The love of gold, and the determination to possess it, was the one idea of his statesmanship. He was a pirate at sea, and a brigand on land. Nevertheless it does not appear that any of his misdeeds, such as hanging innocent people, and robbing British ships, as well as others, led to his recall, or caused any degree of indignation, which such conduct usu- ally arouses. The fact appears to be, that, al- though Governor Richier was a bold, bad man, yet few of his subjects were entitled to throw the first stone at his excellency. Benjamin Bennett became governor of the col- ony in 1 701. At this time the Bahama Islands had become a rendezvous for pirates, and a few years later, King George the First issued a proclamation for their dislodgement. Governor Bennett accord- ingly dispatched a sloop, ordering the marauders to surrender. Those who were on shore, on his arrival, gladly accepted the opportunity to escape, and declared that they did not doubt but that their companions, who were at sea, would follow their ex- ample. Captain Henry Jennings, and fifteen others, sailed for Bermuda, and were soon followed by four other captains, Leslie, Nichols, Hornigold and Bur- ges, with one hundred men, who all surrendered. BERMUDA GUIDE. 43 'In 1710, the Spaniards made a descent on Turks Island, which had been settled by the Bermudians, for the purpose of gathering salt, and took posses- sion of the island making prisoners of the people. The Bermudians, at their own expense and own ac- cord, dispatched a force under Captain Lewis Mid- dleton, to regain possession of the Bahamas Cays. The expedition was successful, and a victory gained over the Spaniards, and they were driven from the islands ; they still, however, continued to make predatory attacks on the salt-rakers at the ponds, and on the vessels going for and carrying away salt. To repel these ag- gressions and afford security to their trade, the Bermudians went to the expense of arming their vessels. In 1775 the discontent in the American provinces had broken out into open opposition to the crown, and the people were forbidden to trade with their late fellow subjects. Bermuda suffered great want in consequence, for at this period, instead of export- ing provisions, the islands had become dependent on the continent for the means of subsistence. This, together with the fact that many of the people pos- sessed near relatives engaged in the struggle with the Crown, tended to destroy good feelings towards the British Government, these circumstances must be considered in order to judge fairly of the following transaction which has always been re- garded to have cast a stain upon the patriotism and loyalty of the Bex'mudians, 44 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED At the outbreak of the American revolution, two battles were fought in the vicinity of Boston, Lex- ington and Bunker Hill, after which all intercourse with the surrounding country ceased, and Boston was reduced to a state of seige. Civil war commenced in all its horrors, the sundering of social ties, the burning. of peaceful homes, the butchery of kindred and friends. Washington was appointed, by the Continental Congress, commander in chief of the American forces, and on July 3, 1775, two weeks afeer the bat- tle of Bunker Hill, he took formal command of the army at Cambridge. In a letter to the president of Congress notifying him of his safe arrival there, he made the following statement. ''Upon the article of ammunition, I must reecho the former complaints on this subject. We are so exceedingly destitute that our artillery will be of little use, without a sup- ply both large and seasonable. What we have must be reserved for the small arms, and that well managed with the utmost frugality." A few weeks later General Washington wrote the following let- ter on the same subject. * TO GOVERNOR COOKE, OF RHODE ISLAND. Camp at Cambridge, 4 August, 1775. Sir, ******** I am now. Sir, in strict confidence, to acquaint you, that our necessities in the articles of powder * Writings of George Washington, hy J. Sparks, vol. iii. page 47. BERMUDA GUIDE. 45 and lead are so great, as to require an immediate supply. I must earnestly entreat, that you will fall upon some measure to forward every pound of each in your colony, that can possibly be spared. It is not within the propriety or safety of such a corre- spondence to say what I might on this subject. It is sufficient, that the case calls loudly for the most strenuous exertions of every friend of his countr}^ and does not admit of the least delay. No quantity, however small, is beneath notice, and, should any arrive, I beg it may be forwarded as soon as pos- sible. But a supply of this kind is so precarious, not only from the danger of the enemy, but the oppor- tunity of purchasing, that I have revolved in my mind every other possible chance, and listened to every proposition on the subject, which could give the smallest hope. Among others, I have had one mentioned, which has some weight with me, as well as the general officers to whom I have proposed it. A Mr. Harris has lately come from Bermuda, where there is a very considerable magazine of powder in a remote part of the island ; and the inhabitants are well disposed not only to our cause in general, but to assist in this enterprise in particular. We under- stand there are two armed vessels in your province, commanded by men of known activit}^ and spirit ; one of which, it is proposed to despatch on this errand with such assistance as may be requisite. Harris is to go along, as the conductor of the enter- prise, that we may avail ourselves of his knowledge 46 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED of the island ; but without any command. I am very sensible, that at first view the project may ap- pear hazardous ; and its success must depend on the concurrence of many circumstances ; but we are in a situation, which requires us to run all risks. No danger is to be considered, when put in compe- dtion with the magnitude of the cause, and the ab- solute necessity we are under of increasing our stock. Enterprises, which appear chimerical, often prove successful from that very circumstance. Com- mon sense and prudence will suggest vigilance and care, where the danger is plain and obvious ; but, where little danger is apprehended, the more the enemy will be unprepared ; and consequently there is the fairest prospect of success. Mr. Brown has been mentioned to me as a very proper person to be consulted upon this occasion. You will judge of the propriety of communicating it to him in part or the whole, and as soon as pos- sible favor me with your sentiments, and the steps you may have taken to forward it. If no immediate and safe opportunity offers, yon will please to do it by express. Should it be inconvenient to part with one of the armed vessels, perhaps some other might be fitted out, or you could devise some other mode of executing this plan ; so that, in case of a disap- pointment, the vessel might proceed to some other island to purchase. ******* I am, Sir, Your most obedient, humble servant, G. Washington, BERMUDA GUIDE, 47 This plan was approved by the governor and com- mittee of Rhode Island, and Captain Abraham Whipple agreed to engage in the affair, provided General Washington would give him a certificate under his own hand, that in case the Bermudians would assist the undertaking, he would recommend to the Continental Congress to permit the exporta- tion of provisions to those islands from the colonies. General Washington accordingly sent the follow- ing address to the Bermudians. * TO THE INHABITANTS OF THE ISLAND OF BERMUDA. Camp at Cambridge, 6 September, 1775. Gentlemen, In the great conflict, which agitates this conti- nent, I cannot doubt but the assertors of freedom and the rights of the constitution are possessed of your most favorable regards and wishes for success. As descendants of freemen, and heirs with us of the same glorious inheritance, we flatter ourselves, that, though divided by our situation, we are firmly united in sentiment. The cause of virtue and lib- erty is confined to no continent or climate. It com- prehends, within its capacious limits, the wise and good, however dispersed and separated in space or distance. You need not be informed, that the violence and ra- pacity of a tyrannic ministry have forced the citizens of America, your brother colonist, into arms. We * Writings of George Washington, bj J. Sparks, vol. page 77. 48 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED equally detest and lament the prevalence of those counsels, which have led to the eflusion of so much human blood, and left us no alternative but a civil war, or a base submission. The wise Disposer of all events has hitherto smiled upon our virtuous efforts. Those mercenary troops, a few of whom lately boasted of subjugating this vast continent, have been checked in their earliest ravages, and are now actually encircled within a small space ; their arms disgraced, and themselves suffering all the calamities of a siege. The virtue, spirit, and union of the provinces leave them nothing to fear, but the want of ammunition. The application of our enemies to foreign states, and their vigilance upon our coasts, are the only efforts they have made against us with success. Under these circumstances, and with these senti- ments, we have turned our eyes to you, Gentlemen, for relief. We are informed, that there is a very large magazine in your island under a very feeble guard. We would not wish to involve you in an opposition, in which, from your situation, we should be unable to support you ; we knew not, therefore, to what extent to solicit your assistance, in availing ourselves of this supply ; but, if your favor and friendship to North America and its liberties have not been misrepresented, I persuade myself you may, consistently with your own safety, promote and further this scheme, so as to give it the fairest" prospect of success. Be assured, that, in this case, the whole power and exertion of my influence will BERMUDA GUIDE. 49 be made with the honorable Continental Congress, that your island may not only be supplied with provisions, but experience every other mark of affection and friendship, which the grateful citizens of a free country can bestow on its brethren and benefactors. I am. Gentlemen, With much esteem, Your humble servant. Captain Whipple had scarcely sailed from Provi- dence before an account appeared in the newspapers of one hundred barrels of powder having been taken from Bermuda, by a vessel supposed to be from Philadelphia, and another from South Carolina. This was the same powder that Captain Whipple had gone to procure. General Washington and Governor Crook were both of the opinion it was best to countermand his instructions. The other armed vessel of Rhode Island was immediately dispatched in search of the captain with orders to return. But it was too late, he reached Bermuda and put in at the West end of the island. The inhabitants were at first alarmed, supposing him to command a kings armed vessel, and the women and children fled from that vicinity, but when he showed them his commission and instructions they treated him with 50 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED much cordiality and friendship, and informed him that they had assisted in removing the powder, which was made known to Gen. Gage, and he had sent a sloop of war to the island. They professed them- selves hearty friends to the American cause. Cap- tain Whipple being defeated in the object of his voyage returned to Providence. Soon after the inhabitants of Bermuda petitioned congress for relief, representing their great distress in consequence of being deprived of the supplies that usually came from the colonies. In considera- tion of their being friendly to the cause of America, it was resolved by congress that provisions in cer- tain quantities might be exported to them.* The powder procured from the Bermudians led to the first great victory gained by Washington in the revolutionary war, the evacuation of Boston by the British army. After the arrival of the powder, Washington caused numerous batteries to be erected •in the immediate vicinity of the town. On the night of March 4th, 1776, Dorchester Heights were taken possession of and works erected there which commanded Boston, and the British Fleet lying at anchor in the harbor. This caused the town to be evacuated, and General Howe with his army and about one thousand loyalists went aboard of the fleet and sailed for Halifax, March 17th, 1776. Nothing could exceed the indignation of Gover- nor Bruere, when he received intelligence of the ■^Journal Qf Congress, November 22d, 1775. BERMUDA GUWM. 51 plundering of the magazine, he promptly called upon the legislature to take active measures for bringing the delinquents to justice. No evidence could ever be obtained, and the whole transaction is still enveloped in mystery. The governor let no opportunity escape him to accuse the Bermudians of disloyalty, and no doubt severe punishment would have been inflicted on the delinquents could they have been discovered. Two American brigs under republican colors ar- rived shortly after this and remained some weeks at the west end of the islands unmolested, and Gov- ernor Bruere complained bitterly of this to the assembly.* Governor George James Bruere died in 1780, and the administration devolved on the Hon. Thomas Jones, who was relieved by George Bruere as Lieu- tenant Governor, in October, 1780. Governor Bruere was soon openly at varience with the assembly, and did not hesitate to accuse the people of treason in supplying the revolted provinces with salt, exchanging it for provisions. Mr. Bruere, extremely exasperated at their trading, which he considered to be treasonable conduct, com- mented on it in his message to the assembly in no measured terms. Some intercepted correspond- ence with the rebels added fuel to the flame, and on the 15th of August, 1 781, he addressed them in a * These were probably the vessels sent out from Rhode Island, under the command of Captain Whipple. 52 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED speech which could not fail to be offensive, althoujjh it contained much sound argument. This was fol- lowed by a message more bitter and acrimonious, all of which they treated with silent contempt until the 28th of September, when they discharged their wrath in an address, in which the governor was handled most roughly for his attacks on the inhab- itants of these islands. In return he addressed a message equally uncourteous in its tone, and dis- solved the house. The arrival of William Browne, whose adminis- tration commenced 4th January, 1782, put an end to Mr. Bruere'srule. The high character of the new governor had pre- ceeded him in the colony, and he was joyfully re- ceived on his arrival. He was a native of Salem, Massachusetts, and was high in office previous to the revolution, was colonel of the Essex regiment, judge of the Supreme Court, and Mandamus Coun- selor. After the passage of the Boston port bill, he was waited on by a committee of the Essex delegates, to inform him, that "it was with grief that the country had viewed his exertions for carry- ing into execution certain acts of parliament calcu- lated to enslave and ruin his native land, that while the country would continue the respect for several years paid him, it resolved to detach from every fu- ture connection all such as shall persist in support- ing or in any way countenancing the late arbitrary acts of Parliament, that the deligates in the name of the country request him to excuse them BERMUDA GUIDE. 53 Trom the painful necessity of considering and treat- ing him as an enemy to his country, unless he re- signed his office as counselor and judge." Col. Browne replied as follows : ''As a judge and in every other capacity, I in- tend to act with honor and integrity and to exert my best abilities ; and be assured that neither persua- sion can allure me nor menaces compel me to do anything derogatory to the character of a counselor of his majesty's province of Massachusetts." — Wm. Browne. Col. Browne was esteemed among the mosi opulent and benevolent individuals of that province prior to the revolution : and so great was his popu- larity that the gubernatorial chair of Massachusetts was offered him by the " committee of safety," as an inducement for him to remain and join the " sons of liberty." But he felt it a duty to adhere to govern- ment ; even at the expense of his great landed es- tate, both in Massachusetts and Connecticut, the latter comprising fourteen valuable farms, all of which were afterwards confiscated. By prefering to remain on the side representing law and authority, and unwilling to adopt the course of the revolutionists, this courtly representative of an ancient and honorable family, this sincere lover of his country, this skillful man of affairs, this upright and merciful judge, once so beloved by his fellow townsmen, drew upon himself their wrath, and he fled from his native country never to return again. First he sought refuge in Boston in 1774, then in 54 -§ TARI^'S ILL US TrA TMD Halifax, and from there he went to England in 1776, where he remained till 1781, when he was ap- pointed governor of Bermuda, as a slight return for his great sacrifices and important services in be- half of the Crown. Col. Browne married his cousm, the daughter of Governor Wanton, of Rhode Is- land, and was doubly connected with the Winthrop family ; the wives of the elder Brown and Governor Wanton being daughters of John Winthrop, great grandson of the first governor of Massachusetts. Col. Browne's son William was an officer in the British service at the siege of Gibralter in 1784. Under the judicious management of Governor Browne, the colony continued to steadily flourish, he conducted the business of the colony in the great- est harmony with the different branches of the legis- lature. He found the financial affairs of the is- lands in a confused and ruinous state, and left them flourishing. In 1788 he left for England, deeply and sincerely regretted by the people, and was suc- ceeded by Henry Hamilton as Lieutenant Governor, during whose administration the town of Hamilton was built and named in compliment of him. Near the close of the American Revolution a plan was on foot to take Bermuda, in order to make it a *' a nest of hornets" for the annoyance of Brit- ish trade, but the war closed, and it was abandoned. It, however, proved a nest of hornets to the United States, during the late civil war. At that time St. George's was a busy tow^n, and was one of the hot beds of secession. Being a great resort for block- BBkMtJDA GtJtDE. 55 ade runners, which were hospitably welcomed here, immense quantities of goods were purchased in England, and brought here on large ocean steam- ers, and then transferred to swift sailing blockade runners, waiting to receive it. These ran the blockade into Charleston, Wilmington and Sa- vannah. It was a risky business, but one that was well followed, and many made large fortunes there, dur- ing the first years of the war, but many were bank- rupt or nearly so, at its close. The town was crowded, men lay on verandas, walls, docks and floors, money was plenty and sailors sometimes landed after a successful run with $1,500, in specie. The prices of labor doubled, liquor flowed freely, and the common laborer had his champagne and rich cake. Here, too, was con- cocted the fiendish plot of Dr. Blackburn, a Kentuck- ian, for introducing yellow fever into Northern cities, by sending thither boxes of infected clothing, but it was fortunately discovered in season to pre- vent injury, save to the plotters. CLIMATE. Bermuda enjoys one of the finest climates in the world, situated, as it is, in mid-ocean, on the south- eastern margin of the Gulf Stream, that sweeps along between the island and the American coast-, it IS entirely tree from frost. The cold, wintry blasts that come down from Manitoba and Dakota, 56 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED extending even to Florida, are, after passing over the warm w^aters of the Gulf Stream, warmed, and this accounts for the fact that, although Bermuda is but one-half as far south from New York as Flor- ida, yet it enjoys a far more equal climate than any place in the United States, either on the Atlantic or Gulf coast. August and September are the hottest and most disagreeable months, owing to the enervating southerly winds. There is, however, almost in- variably a good breeze from some quarter, and the nights and mornings are cool and delightful. Sun- stroke is unknown. The mercury seldom rises above 85 degrees, or falls below 50 degrees, while the average is about 70 degrees. Bermudians sit on their verandas throughout the year, and the majority of the people never think of a fire, ex- cept for cooking purposes. Only in the better class of houses are fire-places provided, and a fire is enjoyed occasionally, in the colder days of winter, and is useful to counteract the dampness. Strangers that resort here, in the winter, gener- ally speak highly of the climate. The worn out and exhausted business man and the aged, gener- ally find the place most agreeable and appropriate for a lengthened stay. The islands are noted for the longevity of the native population, especially of the whites. There seems to be no diseases peculiar to the climate. Consumptives often resort here, but sel- dom derive that benefit which they experience in a BERMUDA GUIDE. 57 dry climate. The climate seems to be especially beneficial to those afilicted with rheumatism, bron- chial and nervous diseases. Bermuda has suffered several times from yellow fever, but in each in- stance, so far as it could be ascertained, it was brought there from other ports ; the last attack was during the civil war in America, when the country was full of vicious and filthy men, congregated here from the West Indies and Southern ports. So well situated are the islands, that there is no excuse for defective drainage or quarantine. The most terrible outbreak of the epidemic occurred in 1853, when the mortality was appalling, sparing no class of the community. The quarantine regulations for the islands are now excellent, and it is to be hoped that it will be many years before they are visited by yellow fever again. AGRICULTURE AND COMMERCE. Although three crops of vegetables can be pro- duced annually, still agriculture is in a very back- ward state. In the early days of the colony, when its affairs were under the control of the Company, large crops of tobacco were successfully cultivated, and became the principal article of export to Eng- land. During the 17th century, a brisk trade in oranges and lemons was carried on, but, of late years, agriculture has received but little attention, and is chiefly confined to raising onions and early potatoes for the New York market. The descend- 5g STARK'S iLLUSTRAfBb ants of the early settlers appear to have gradually lost much of the agricultural knowledge of their forefathers. The great fertility and prodigious growth of veg- etation in warm climates, when compared with the northern parts of the world, is almost incredible, so that even now, with a few patches only that have been subjected to cultivation, such is the produc- tiveness of the soil, that the exports of the colony are surprisingly great. If the valleys and other places sheltered from the wind were to be planted with bananas, oranges, plantains, lemons, figs, shaddocks, pineapples and other tropical fruits and vegetables, there is no doubt but that a profitable business could be done in supplying the visitors that are annually resorting to these islands. As it is, there is not near fruit enough raised to supply the home consumption. The present prospects of agriculture in Bermuda command serious considerations, especially as New York is now drawing largely on Florida for its early vegetables and fruits. Florida is fast filling up with an industrious and progressive population from the northern states, who devote their attention entirely to agriculture, besides new lines of railway are being constructed all over that state, so that produce can be shipped to the northern markets in less time than it can be sent from Bermuda by steamship to New York. Agriculture was at first the leading pursuit in Bermuda, but was gradually abandoned for ship building, and the manufacture o z BERMUDA GUIDE. 61 of salt at Turks Island. Bermuda was largely en- gaged at one time, in the West India trade, and carried on a large commerce with the British Prov- inces and the United States, in vessels built of their native cedar ; with the abolition of slavery, the rise of ship building in the Provinces, and other causes, the trade gradually slipped away. INHABITANTS. The white inhabitants of Bermuda are hospita- ble, well informed and agreeable. A stranger is at once impressed with the marked courtesy of the people. From the lowest to the highest, one will receive the most polite attention. A simplicity al- most arcadian characterize their manners, espec- ially those of the women. Many who have led very circumscribed lives, who have never been away from Bermuda, possess an ease and grace which would do credit to those of the most polished soci- ety, arising apparently from perfect faith in others, and an earnest desire to add to their pleasure in every possible way. In matters of etiquette, they resemble their English ancestors, and are generally much more exact than the Americans ; this is due to the fact, probably, of their association with the British military and naval officers, a large number of whom are always stationed here. They are a comfortable, well-to-do set of people, with here and there a family possessing ample means. As in England, property, especially rea^ 62 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED estate, remains in the same family for a long period ; some of the descendants of the original settlers are to be found possessing lands that have never passed out of their family. The population of the islands reached its highest figure in 1780, when it was esti- mated at 15,000, it afterwards dwindled down to 8,500, at which figure it stood in 1837. Since then it has gradually risen to its present number of about 14,650, of whom 60 per cent, are colored persons. Slavery, introduced in the early colonial days, was abolished in 1834, Bermuda being the first colony to advocate immediate rather than gradual emancipation. The law^s recognized both Indian and Negro slavery, and, to a certain extent, also white, for many of the early white settlers were bondmen, and the child of a debtor could be sold at his fathers death and held as bondman until the debt was paid. There never was any large plan- tations here as in the southern states, and the in- stitution was undoubtedly a milder form than in the states. The more intelligent, learned trades, or followed the sea, and many could read and write. The importation of Negroes from Africa ceased a long time before the abolition of slavery, this, to- gether with the admixture of the Indian with the Negro, may account for the improved type of physiognomy one encounters here. The faces of some are fine, and many of the women are really pretty. They are polite, about as well dressed as anybody, attend all the churches BERMUDA GUIDE. 63 and are interested in the schools, have their own secret and benevolent societies and are just as im- provident and lazy here as elsewhere. If they have any money, work is uninteresting to them ; when utterly destitute, they are ready to improve their finances, but when pay day comes they are quite apt to retire from business, and spend their earnings, running the risk of again finding employ- ment, and most of them live in this make-shift way all their lives. A strong feeling of prejudice exists here against the colored people, the same as in the states. There is no place that the writer has ever visited, either in the Southern States, West Indies or South America, where the colored race has made the progress in civilization, or have attained as high a state of development, as they have on these islands. The Bermudians pride themselves on the fact that there are no beggars, or any such thing as pauperism here, there may be poverty in Bermuda, but squalor or absolute want does not exist there, and one of the first things that strikes the visitor is the appearance of ease and well-to-do comfort that pervades the islands. Instead of the tumble-down shanties that deform and defile the rest of the world, here the poorest Negro appears to dwell in marble halls. The houses of the rich- est and the poorest are built of the same material, a snow white stone of coral formation, which un- derlies every foot of soil on the islands. When first quarried, it is so soft that it is cut up into blocks with a hand saw, for it cuts easier than 64 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED wood. It hardens when it is exposed to the air, and is so durable that a house built of it will last for centuries. There is no rubbish, dirt, mud or dust here, and together with the well-kept grounds, it gives an impression of affluence and elegance that is not seen elsewhere. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. Life is not nearly as dull in Bermuda, as might be supposed, there are plenty of out-door amuse- ments, driving, rowing, yachting, cricket, croquet, dinner parties and balls enliven the time, especially in the winter. As Bermuda is a British Army and Navy Station, it has a society remarkably good, superior to what may be found in any other winter resort. There are usually two regiments stationed here, and in the winter season it is the station for the North American fleet, this gives a certain tone to society. The officers of the army and navy, church and state have led a life of so much variety and action, that talking with them is like a chap- ter in a fascinating novel, so full are they of incidents and adventures they have encountered in their varied experiences all over the world. Equally at home in courts and camps, they have served their country in the chair of state, as well as on the field of battle. Many of them have been in every coun- try on the globe, and have seen foreign life under its best aspects. On the sands of Africa, on the burning plains of India, on the bloody fields of BERMUDA GUIDE. 67 Russia, Turkey and Egypt, they were known as men who never flinched in danger, but were ever ready to lay down their lives at their country's call. Meeting such people here is one of the charms of Bermudian society. Strangers bringing letters of introduction will meet with ample attention and visitors generally will be treated with every courtesy. Some of the most lovely and desirable residences on the island are owned and occupied by Americans. Mr. Allen, the American consul, who has been here for up- wards of twenty years, possesses a delightful resi- dence situated at what is called "the Flatts," about five miles from Hamilton. Close by, overlooking Harrington Sound, is Mount Clair, the residence of another American, Mr. William Whitney ; it is one of the most beautiful places in Bermuda. Mr. and Mrs. Whitney are very hospitable and kind in en- tertaining visitors, especially Americans, and have the happy faculty of making every one feel at home in their house. "At Fairy Land" resides General Hastings, formerly of the U. S. Army, and who lost a leg in the late civil war. Mrs. Hast- ings is a neice of ex-President Hayes ; they are also very hospitable and kind in entertaining visitors. If the moon and tide is right, one of the most beautiful sights that can be imagined is presented at Fairy Land. You row into little coves, then in- to what seems to be lakes, then around islands in- to inlets, where in the mangroves, every leaf glist- ening in the moonlight, you can almost see the 68 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED fairies dancing. Another beautiful spot is the Woodlands, occupied by M. M. Hurd of New York, former^ of the well-known publishing firm of Hurd & Houghton. This is about the extent of the American colony in Bermuda, — few in number but of excellent quality. The governor has a reception every Wednesday at the government house, Mount Langton, his res- idence. The learned judge, the jovial marine, the sedate parson, and the doughty colonel all mingle here. The conversation may, or may not, be in- different ; you may hear the household gossip, or talk about India during the rebellion, about China, the scenery of Jamaica, the gay life at Malta, or of dear old England. There may be music from the regimental band, and so the time passes until refreshments are announced, which are served in the pretty dining room overlooking the sea. As the number of visitors increase, it cannot be expected, as a rule, that they will receive the same special attention, which the earlier visitors to Ber- muda have had, when the number of tourists were much smaller. GOVERNMENT. Since 1685, at which time the charter of the company expired, and the proprietory form of gov- ernment ceased, Bermuda has been a crown col- ony. The government is administered by a gover- aor, council and house of assembly. From the BERMUDA GUIDE, 71 fact that Bermuda occupies such an important place as a mihtary and naval station, being second only to Malta, it is deemed advisable to fill the office v^ith a man sufficiently conversant with military affairs, to command any land forces which may be stationed here. Bermuda is so absolutely isolated, having no telegraphic connection with the conti- nent, that exigencies are liable to arise in which the action of the governor may be of the greatest political significance ; hence the office demands a man of varied talent. The governor acts so large- ly on his own responsibility, that he has the right of veto, and no bill can pass the assembly without his consent. The governor is appointed by the Crown, and is now usually a general officer of the Royal Artillery or of the Royal Engineers. He is paid mainly by the Imperial Government, the col- ony contributing only a small amount towards his salary. He holds office for six years. The coun- cil is composed of ten members, appointed by the Imperial Government for life. The present house of assembly is an elected body of thirty-six mem- bers. Bermuda is divided into nine tribes or par- ishes, from each of which four representatives are sent to the assembly. The opinions of an impecunious man are regarded as politically worthless, and he is not therefore en- titled to the ballot, until he owns real estate worth £60. If he aspires to be an assemblyman he must possess four times that amount in real estate. The colored people have the same civil rights as the 72 STABirS ILLUSTRATED whites, and although they outnumber the whites two to one, yet there are not one-third as many colored voters as white. It is the property quali- fication in the Bermudian form of government that is most admired by American visitors, that come from states that are under Irish and Negro rule, the result of universal suffrage. The assembly usually convenes on alternate days in summer. The opening is quite an affair. The governor, dressed in uniform, makes his speech, the different officials appear in their uniforms, and the soldiers enliven the scene. EDUCATION. One of the greatest needs of Bermuda is a good system of public schools and trained teachers. All the educational work is done by a few earnest peo- ple whose labors are unappreciated and poorly re- warded. There is an annual grant provided by the assembly of £1,200, an inspector of schools whose whole time is devoted to the duties of his office, and a local board of education. Most of the pupils pa}^ a tuition fee of 6d. per week, though na child would be excluded if unable to do so, for education is compulsory. The public schools are almost wholly attended by colored children. The antagonism of races is very strong, the whites absolutely refuse to attend the same school with the blacks, where the latter would be in a BERMUDA GUIDE. 73 decided majority. Those who can afford it hire private tutors or send their children abroad to be educated. RELIGION. The Episcopal is the established church here, and more than one-half of the population are of that denomination : they have nine parish churches and two chapels of ease. There are one Roman Catholic, two Presbyterian, nine Wesley an, one Methodist Episcopal and one Reformed Episcopal chapels. According to the census, taken in 1881, the religious professions of the inhabitants are as follows : Church of England, 10,003 ; Wesleyan, 1,672; Methodist Episcopal, 752; Roman Catholic, 391 ; Reformed Episcopal, 208. The Bermudians are a church-going people, and all the churches are well attended. The general appearance of the congregation is not unlike that of a New England country audience, with faces a trifle less care-worn. The preaching is peculiary simple, with no suggestion of sensationalism or radicalism in it. The churches are very plain, built generally in the form of a cross, surrounded by the church-yard with its dead. The oldest church is St. Peters, at St. George's, occupying a commanding site in the old church yard. There are several handsome memorial mural tablets. The communion plate of massive silver was presented by King William IH. 74 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED in 1684, and the silver christening basin was the gift of Governor Wm. Browne, a loyalist refugee from Salem, Massachusetts. The new church is being built on the Government House grounds. The style is early English, with a tower rising in the intersection of nave, transept and chancel. Trinity Church of Hamilton, known as the Cathedral or ''chapel of ease," was very beauti- ful in all its parts, and thorough in all its details, it contained several beautiful memorial windows, com- posed of stained glass ; it was by far the finest building on the islands, and would have been con- sidered an ornament to any city. It was erected at a cost of £12,000 in 1850, and destroyed by fire early in the morning of Sunday, Januar}'^ 27, 1884. It was supposed to have been the dastardly work of some miscreant, but what object could have been gained by perpetrating such an outrage it is hard to tell. A new cathedral will probably be soon built on the site of the old one. MILITARY AND NAVAL. Bermuda stands in the centre of the Atlantic, singularly and peculiarly situated by nature. En- circling the islands is a chain of coral reefs and sunken rocks, through which is only a limited num- ber of navigable openings, and these are intricate and dangerous unless buoyed and traversed un- der the guidance of experienced pilots. These BERMUDA GUIDE. 7? natural defences, are supplemented by heavily armed forts and batteries, at suitable points, which command the entrances through the reefs, and all the principal channels. In case of necessity, all buoys would be removed, and the channels lined with torpedos, of which there are large quantities at hand, to be used as the case required. This makes of Bermuda a naturally impregnable fortress, one of Englands most powerful strongholds, sec- ond only to Gibralter, in being the strongest forti- fied place in the world. A stranger coming here wonders why this speck of land in the midst of the Atlantic Ocean should require a fort on every ex- posed point, why there should be batteries and martello towers at every turn, and why red-coats and marines should meet you at every corner. But it should be remembered, that this is the ren- dezvous for the British fleet, in all these waters, and here vast quantities of arms and ammunition are stored. The importance of Bermuda, as a British possession, is irrespective of its dimensions or commercial relations, for, situated as these islands are, being within two days sail of any of the ports on the Atlantic coast of the United States, and about midway between the British possessions in the West Indies and North America, it cannot be questioned, but that, in case of a war with the United States, Englands strong position here would give her an immense advantage, for these islands would be of the greatest importance, as a base of naval operation against that country. 78 STARK'S JLLUSTRATED According to the earliest records, great attention has been given to the defences of these islands, from the date of the first settlement to the present time. The standing orders of the Bermuda Company, constituted the whole male population of the islands a militia, for the defence of the place, with the governor as captain general. After the expiration of the company's charter, a militia act was passed by the colonial legislature, ordering that every male inhabitant, between the ages of 15 and 60 years, should do military service. The militia consisted of nine companies, to which, in 1707, a troop of horse was added. The important nature of the fort and batteries erected immediately after the settlement of these islands, can be seen by referring to the engravings of the Bermudas, as shown in Captain John Smith's "General Historic of Virginia, New Eng- land and the Summer lis," published in 1624, a reproduction of which we have inserted in this work. The forts and batteries were erected, manned and provided with munition of war by the early settlers, in order to protect themselves from the Spaniards, pirates and buccaneers who abound- ed in these seas at that time. It appears that it was not till after the American revolution that the British Government discovered the great strategic importance of these islands. As a matter of fact, it was the loss of her thirteen American colonies that enhanced their value as a BERMUDA GUIDE. gt Strong military and naval position. Mention is made of the presence of the Royal Artillery in 1783, and in 1797 seven companies of the 47th regi- ment arrived from New Providence, and since that time Bermuda has been garrisoned by regular troops. It v^as at the close of the civil war in Amer- ica, that the Imperial Government made the largest expenditures on the military defences. It was then that the present system of elaborate fortifications, of such immense strength that there is nothing equal to them out of England, was commenced, and Bermuda, hitherto attached to the HaHfax com- mand, was erected into a separate and independent one. There are commodious barracks for the troops at St, George's, and an airy, convenient camp at Prospect Hill, a high commanding position nearly in the centre of the island, near Hamilton. In ad- dition to the headquarter stations of Prospect and St. George's, there are detachments of troops at Ireland Islands, Boaz and other points, and a rifle range at Warwick. In 1794 Captain Hurd reported to Admiral Mur- ray the importance of Bermuda as a naval station, this fact was recognized, and the preliminary oper- ations for the establishment of a dock-yard were commenced in January, 1810, on Ireland Island. Skilled artisans were despatched from England to direct and superintend the slave labor, by which the work was to be done. In 1842 it was decided to substitute convict labor in these operations, and §2 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED three hundred convicts were sent out from England as a commencement ; these were gradually increased by fresh arrivals until, in 1848, they numbered over 1,500. They were distributed in hulks, in the Cam- ber of the dock-yard, and in prisons erected on the adjoining island of Boaz, now used as barracks. In 1861, it was determined to abolish the system, and successive drafts were sent to Australia and England. The last in March, 1863, closed the convict period in the islands. From first to last over 9,000 convicts arrived in the colony, and above 2,000 of them died, the yel- low fever epidemic of 1853 falling heavily on the convict establishment. Ireland Island contains an important arsenal and a commodious ''Camber" or open basin, formed by the erection of a breakwater, which accommodates a large number of vessels along the wharfs. There is a steam factory of the first class, and every facility exists for repairing boats and ships of the largest size. The fortifications are extensive and formidable, and under existing conditions of attack may be considered impregnable. A num- ber of men-of-war, including the flag ship of the North American fleet, rendezvous here every win- ter. Exclusively of these is a captain, superintend- ent and a staflf of naval employes, including about two hundred seamen, one hundred and fifty ma- rines and nearly eight hundred dock-yard laborers. This important position required only the addition BERMUDA GUIDE, 83 of the famous floating dock to render it complete. It was launched in Sheerness in 1868, and was towed across the Atlantic and brought into its present position after an exciting vo3^age of fifty- six days. It is 381 feet long, 124 feet broad and 74 feet deep, with forty-eight water tight compartments. This enormous structure is said to be the largest of its kind in the world, and will receive the largest iron-clad built. It weighs over 8,200 tons, draws when light 11 feet of water, and when sunk 50 feet; it took two years to build, and cost about a quarter of a million sterling. There is every facility for the reception and rapid repair of vessels, and for the dock itself to be hauled over for cleaning and repairs. One of the main objects of the defence of the islands is the protection of this valuable dock-yard ; and the approaches to it are guarded by numerous heavily-armed forts and batteries. In addition to these forts and batteries which are built and fixed according to an elaborate plan, there is a large submarine mining establishment, by which torpedoes and other subsidiary means of defence can be put down at short notice, and movable road batteries are prepared to supplement the stationary defences, and to command points where landing by boats might be attempted on the south side of the island. No foreign power has ever conquered these islands, and probably never will as long as England remains mistress of the seas. 84 STAJ^Jir'S ILLUSTRATBD GEOLOGY. Bermuda, geologically speaking, is an " atoll," a ring of coral reefs surrounding a central lagoon. This coral structure is of a recent formation, and rests on the top of a submarine mountain. What the basis on which the reefs rests may be, there is no means of telling ; in fact its having the form of an atoll precludes the possibility of doing so. There seems but little doubt, according to competent au- thorities, that the atoll form is due to the entire dis- appearance by subsidence of the island round which the reef was originally formed. The abruptness and isolation of this peak, which runs up a solitary cone from the level bed of the Atlantic to a height of about three miles, or about equal to that of Mont Blanc, is certainly very unusual, and the most rea- sonable theory is that the kernel is a volcanic moun- tain, comparable in character with Pico in the Azores or the Peak of Teneriffe. It would appear that the outer edge of the mountain summit, now represented by the ring of coral reefs, was among the first portion to attract and arrest the wandering zoophytes of the surrounding currents. The coral barriers thus reared are much the same as those of similar reefs in the Pacific, and is the farth- est from the equator of any coral island in the world, being almost on the limit of the region of reef build- ing corals. The general form and position of the reef and its islets are shown on the accompanying map, and, although an elevated atoll, the emerged BERMUDA GUIDE. 85 land, about fifteen miles in length, is confined to the side facing southeast. The Bermuda Islands, in common with most other coral islands, are formed by the raising of the weather edge of the reef above the level of the sea. f^EE F S ^X V dL-^ BERMUDA. This appears to be accomplished, in the first place, by the agency of the waves alone, for the coral rock is never formed far out of water, as the insect in a few minutes of exposure to the air melts into slime. The beach is first formed on the reef in the following manner. Fragments of coral and shell fish, many of them with the inherent power of in- creasing and cementing themselves together through the growth of the living things which invest them, are piled upon one another until they reach the highest point accessable to the sea in storms, then every breaker of the eternal surf grinds the coral and dead shells into a fine coral sand, and the moment the ridge appears above water, a beach of 86 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED coralline sand is formed. The top of the beach dries at low water, and the sand is blown on, first among the crevices of the breakwater already formed, which it widens and strengthens, and then over the breakwater to the ledges and reefs beyond, which it tends to raise to the surface. In this way, in all coral seas, islands have a tendency to form along the windward edges of annular reefs. The windv/ard island then forms. a shelter to the lee- ward portion of the ring, depriving it of the main source of its elevation, the piling up of fragments by the waves ; so that on the leeward side we usually have more qr less of the reef remaining submerged, and any passages of communication between the central lagoon and the outer sea. There is a wonderful "sand-glacier" at Elbow Bay on the southern shore of the main island, where these processes can actually be observed. The sand has entirely filled up a valley, and is steadily progressing inland in a mass about 25 feet thick. The glacis is very regular, and on its path upward from the beach, this "glacier" has overwhelmed a wood of cedars and also a house, all that now re- mains of it is the top of one of the chimneys pro- jecting above the white sand like a tombstone, with a great bush of oleanders drooping over it. The prevailing wind which is from the south-west was an important factor in the advance and arrange- ment of the atoms of which these islands are formed, continually sweeping up fresh deposits of the coralline sand, drying it and blowing it onwards BERMUDA GUIDE. 87 in drifts or sand glaciers. Thus the southern boundaries of the land were extended, while the northern margins, being to leeward and not so lib- erally supplied, wore away, subsided and retreated, until at the present time as much as ten miles of CHIMNEY OF A HOUSE BURIED IN SAND. water at some points intervene between the reef and the existing coast line. The north rock composed of a harder material stands as a proof of the former extent of dry land to the northward of the lagoon. It is the sole surviving monument of a Bermuda which has ceased to exist, and is a group of pinacles, the loftiest only i^ feet high, which rises 88 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED from the outer reef at about eight miles distant from the land, where, having been buffeted by the storms of countless ages, it is slowly yielding to the doom of inevitable disintegration. Bermuda is, as we have shown, composed entirely of calcarious rocks derived from broken coral and NORTH ROCK. shells. These rocks vary in texture from loose sand to compact limestone, the different varieties are ir- regularly associated and without any order of super- position. The process by which free coral sand is converted into limestone is very simple, and involves no great lapse of time. The sand consists almost entirely of carbonate of lime, and is easily soluble in water containing carbonic acid, such as rain water, which derives the acid from the atmosphere. The rain falls upon the surface of the sand, takes up a little lime in the form of a bicarbonate, and then, as it sinks in, it loses the carbonic acid and itself evapo- BERMUDA GUIDE. 89 rates, and it leaves the previously dissolved car- bonate of lime as a thin layer of cement, coating and uniting together grains of sand. The rocks remain then permeable to water and soluble, so that this process of solution and deposition goes on constantly. The extreme result is a marble-like limestone. There are no minerals on these islands except what is contained in the red earth which forms the surface soil ; this is composed of peroxide of iron and alumina, silica and some earthy phosphates. These substances are to a very small degree soluble in water charged with carbonic acid ; consequently, after the gradual removal of the lime contained in the coral sand by the rain water, a certain sediment or ash, as it were, is left behind, extracted by the shell forming zoophytes from the Avater of the ocean ; this residue amounts to about one per cent. This may seem a very small proportion, but it must be re- membered that it represents one ton in every hun- dred tons of material removed by the action of water and the atmosphere ; and the evidence of denudation on a large scale, are every where so marked, that even w^ere some portion of this one per cent, residue further altered and washed away enough might be left to account fully for the whole of the red earth. It forms a ver}^ fertile soil and when treated with nitrogenous manure, such as that from the farm yard, will grow almost any thing, only clay is wanted to make the soil more retentive of moisture. 90 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED This red earth mixed with vegetable soils and de- cayed wood, is frequently found in quarries at a depth of from fifteen to thirty feet beneath the solid limestone ; this is accounted for by the sand glacier that has crept over it, the advancing waves of sand having enveloped in their course from time to time intervening objects, and becoming in its turn hard- ened over them. Vegetable soil has also been found at a great depth below the level of tide water. This is a direct evidence of subsidence, and the most satisfactory proof was given when the bed was prepared for the great floating dock at Ireland Island, it was neces- sary to make an excavation in the Camber extend- ing to a depth of fifty feet below low water. First they came in the cutting of twenty-five feet below the surface, to a bed of calcarious mud, five feet thick, forming the floor of the basin, next to loose beds, twenty feet thick, of coral sand mixed with shells forming a freestone, be- neath this at a depth of forty-five feet from low water mark, there is a bed of a kind of peat, and vegetable soil, containing stumps of cedar in a vertical position, and the remnants of other land veg- etation with the remains of several birds ; the peat was ascertained by boring to lie upon the ordinary hard base rocks. Instances have been repeatedly recorded during the last half century of vessels' an- chors having dragged up in different places within the barrier reef, and also at Hamilton and St. peorge's harbors, portions of cedar trees especially BERMUDA GUIDE. 91 92 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED the roots having the appearance of being torn from their original positions. About the year 1869, submarine blasting was carried on at the entrance to Hamilton harbor in order to deepen the entrance channel, which revealed the fact of a cavern existing at a depth of over six fathoms, containing stalactites and red earth. Now it is very clear that the peat, cedar stumps, and vegetable soil, found at Ireland Island, and the stalactite cavern and red earth found beneath the harbor, were at one time above water, which in the latter case even if the cedar trees, grew in the earth at the level of the ocean, would raise the islands forty-two feet above their present elevation ; suffi- cient to bring the whole bottom of the lagoon ex- tending from the shore to the outer barrier reef above water. As caves are usually found in all limestone dis- tricts, Bermuda is not an exception to this rule, the islands contain many large vaulted chambers, hol- lowed out of the rock by the removal of its material by running fresh water, or by the action of the sea. This process is more rapid in coral islands than it is where the rock belongs to one of the older forma- tions. The entrances are usually small crevices in the rock, often almost masked by vegetation, such as is shown in the illustration of the Convolvulus Cave, which derives its name from the glorious mantle of flowers with which the entrance is covered. BERMUDA GUIDE, 93 These caves are very curious and beautiful, from the roofs innumerable stalactites, perfectly white, often several yards long, and coming down to the delicacy of knitting needles, hang in clusters, and whenever there are any continuous cracks in the roof or wall, a graceful, soft looking curtain of white stalactite falls and often ends in deep water. Stal- agmites also rise up in pinnacles and fringes through the water, which is so exquisitel}^ still and clear that it is somtimes difficult to tell where the marble tracery ended and its reflected image began. HAMILTON Visitors on landing at Hamilton will find it to their advantage to secure board and lodgings at that place, for it is the most central location on the islands, and excursions can be made from there to any part of the islands and return the same day. There are two towns in Bermuda, Hamilton and St. George's, the former is the capital and principal town, and contains about 2,000 inhabitants. It is laid out quite regularly, and is situated on the southerly side of hilly land facing Hamilton Har- bor. It is named after Governor Hamilton, under whom the change of the seat of government from St. George's was determined in 1793. The site was purchased, and the corporation had vested in them the right of selling and conveying town lots. The assembly met at Hamilton, Jan. 21, 1815. The water privileges of the corporation form its chiel 94 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED source of revenue. The main frontage has been lined with masonry, and three large iron sheds erected, with tanks and brick floor, for the accom- modation of vessels landing their freight. Front street contains the principal places of business, and as its name would signify fronts the harbor. There INDIA RUBBER TREE. are several substantial residences and public build- ings in Hamilton, such as the " Sessions House,'' situated on a hill east of Trinity Churcli, having on its basement floor the Court House, in which the assizes are held, and above, the House of Assem- bly. Below the hill on which the Session's House stands is the "Public Buildings," erected in 1839. BERMUDA GUIDE. 97 Here is the "Custom House," "Colonial Office," " Public Library," " Council Chamber," and on the upper landing is a small museum containing natural history specimens, etc. The small area in which the public building stands is tastefully planted with trees, one of which, a cedar, was planted by Prince Alfred in 1862. The memorial obelisk to Governor Reid also stands near. There are many private gardens in the vicinity of Hamilton that are exquisitely laid out, and kept in perfect order, some of them contain magnificent specimens of the India Rubber tree, one very near the Hamilton House can be seen that was sent here thirty-five years ago from Essequebo ; it is now grown to be an enormous tree, the trunk twelve feet in circumference, running up three or four feet from the ground, and then dividing into five large limbs, rising in all nearly fifty feet from the ground, and covering with its dense shade space all around of at least seventy feet. A good idea of the tree- can be formed trom the accompanying illustration. MOUNT LANGTON. There are several interesting localities within easy walking distance of Hamilton, which will repay the trouble taken in reaching them. The roads leading from Hamilton into the country are exceed- ingly picturesque, and are bordered by many line 98 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED estates. Cedar avenue, lined on each side with cedar trees, fringes Victoria Park, in which are many beautiful specimens of tropical plants. Going north by way of Cedar avenue you pass the Ewing estate, the Parish church, the Hall property, and Mount Wyndham, 3'ou then reach Mount Langton, the governor's residence. A fine view can be ob- tained from here of the sea coast all along the north shore of the island from St. George's to Ireland Island, also an extensive view to the southward embracing the town of Hamilton. Pembroke Marsh and the waters of the Great sound studded Avith islands oi every size ; while far in the distance the hills of Port Royal, with the light-house crowning the sum- mit of the highest, melt into the blue haze of the distant horizon. The grounds of Mount Langton are fertile and picturesque, and contain about seventy acres. The house and land were purchased by the colony from Mr. Joseph Stowe, in 1814, for £4,800. In the garden and lawn are to be seen many beautiful tropical trees, shrubs and plants, such as the gru gru palms, India rubber trees, bamboos, the wampee and litchi trees. Most of these trees were planted about 1 84 1 by Governor Reid. The large silk cotton trees in the garden were planted by Gov- ernor Elliott about 1850. Permission should always be asked to visit these grounds, as well as all private gardens, this priv- ilege is usually freely granted to visitors, but care should be taken not to destroy plants and shrubs BERMITDA GUIDE. 99 100 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED and injure trees ; care should also be taken in cross- ing fields under crop. The distance from the Hamilton House to Mount Langton is about one mile. CLARENCE HILL. One of the most delightful places in Bermuda to visit is Clarence Hill, the residence of the Admiral, distance from Hamilton about two miles. The road from Hamilton is a wild one, and full of variety, with most charming combinations of the woods, country, and sea. Starting from Front street, Hamilton, for Clarence Hill we go west by the office of the American consulate and passing Rose Bank and Long House to Pitts Bay, then passing Olive Hill, a part of the Master's es- tate, you come to Norwood, this estate has been held continuously in the Saltus family, (connected by marriage with Norwood, the surveyor of Bermuda, who lived on the shore neai the present bathing house) till the death of Mr. Samuel Saltus in 1880, who bequeathed it to Mr. Henry Darrell, who is now greatly improving it. Westfield, opposite Nor- wood, was bequeathed by Mr. Samuel Saltus to die Parish of Pembroke, for a rectory; adjoining it is the Wainwright, Leon and Stowe proprietors. The Wainwright section was purchased recently by Mr. Hastings, on which he erected a, large man- sion, this portion is known as Fairy Land, and is one of the first places that visitors seek out on land- BERMUDA GUIDE. 101 PAW PAW TREES, CLARENCE HILL. 102 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED ing at Bermuda, on account of its beautiful scenery and magnificient lily fields, where more than one hundred thousand blossoms can often be seen at one time. Opposite to Fairy Land the Imperial Government have their magazine on Agar's Island. The mangroves, from whence the creek here takes its name, are well worthy of observation, they are a species of tree that grow in the mud along the sea shore and in marshy places, and are found onty in tropical or semi-tropical countries, the foliage is a dark green, and from the branches shoots droop down and take root in the mud, and form new stocks till they cover a space of several hun- dred yards in circumference, presenting a most pe- culiar appearance, in this respect it is similar to the banyan tree of India. Passing around Mangrove Creek we arrive at Clarence Hill, situated on Span- ish Point. The grounds connected with Admiralty House are quite extensive and well kept, the houst is plain, but the attractiveness of the place is in its marine views and natural scener}^. On a hill side overlooking the sea, in a most sequestered spot, is an exquisite bit of gardening. Mosses, ferns and many tropical plants grow in such profusion and grace, peeping from under rocks, and climbing over them, that it is only by critical inspection that you perceive that their presence is due to cultivation. A very singular looking tree is the paw paw, which is seen here, rising up slim and straight with- out any branches, the fruit in shape like a lemon, growing directly from the trunk. BERMUDA GUIDE. 103 Nearby is a cave, against whose outer wall the sea IS forever dashing ; it was tunnelled by a former Admiral, and is so large that on its completion a ball was given in it, by way of celebration. The view from the face of the hill looking down to the extremity of Spanish Point, and over the water to Ireland Island, is very fine, particularly at low tide, when Cobbler's Isle, the Lapstone and the Stagg's Rocks rise from the foaming waters to guard the passage to the harbor within, these islets are honey combed by caverns and natural arches of singular aspect. On returning to Hamilton, when half way along the road, if the visitor will take a narrow path which is seen on the right hand, he will be amply rewarded for the break in his journey, by suddenly coming upon some of the m,ost charming scenery in Bermuda. The shore is here indented by num- erous inlets which have their banks clothed with well grown trees and a verdant carpet of grass be- neath. The w^aters of the sound come rippling in, and if a pleasant westerly wind is blowing, there is no cooler or more delightful spot to ruralise in than •' Point Share" as the localitv is named. HAMILTON TO ST. GEORGE'S. We will now suppose that the visitor is desirous of seeing St. George's, the ancient capital of Ber- muda, and also the intervening places of interest on the way there. The distance there from Hamil- 104 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED ton is about twelve miles. Carriages with care- ful drivers can always be had at short notices at the livery stables, and at quite reasonable rates. Con- veyance can also be had in the mail carriage that leaves Hamilton twice each day for St. George's. There are three roads from Hamilton that con- verge at the Flatts at the head of Hamilton Sound, round which run two roads meeting at the Cause- w^ay, and thence one road round Mullet Bay to St. George's. The North Road is the most airy and easy road and affords the finest view of the ocean. Leaving Hamilton by way of Cedar Avenue and passing by the " Woodlands," (the residence of Mr. Hurd, where there can be seen some fine specimens of cocoanut palms), Pembroke Church and Mount Langton, you enter the north road, skirting the sea shore all the wa}^ to Flatt's Village. DUCKING STOOL. The first object of interest to be seen on the north shore road is the "Ducking Stool" rock, which overhangs the water, and had in years of yore (when witchcraft and sorcery were viewed by an ignorant and super- stitious population as due offences, only punishable by the most cruel of means) ; an apparatus by which the poor unfortunate wretches accused of DUCKING STOOL. Cor-OANTTrr PAiivrc: \Vr»r»r^T BERMUDA GUIDE. 107 these crimes were barbarously torjiiented by a course of " ducking " in the sea, which frequently ended in the death of the victims. Hence the name which has always been borne by this rock to the present day. The practice of ducking began in the latter part of the 15th century and prevailed until the early part of the present century. One of the most frequent offences punished by ducking, was that of the common scolds, who were tied into the chair or stool and plunged into the water as a punishment, in the manner as shown in the illus- tration. THE WELLS. About a mile and a half beyond the DucKing Stool on the road to the Flatts, there will be ob- served on the right hand, near the seashore, numer- ous wells, these formerly supplied the navy with water before the large tanks and water sheds were constructed that are now in use. These wells are sunk to the high water level of the sea and the surface rain water gathering in them lies on the heavier salt water, mixing only slightly w4th it. The tendency, however, of the water in them to be- come brackish and impure has led to the general discontinuance of nearly all the wells on the islands. It follows from what has been said of the. formation of these islands that there is not any fresh water here, except what is obtained by storage of rain in tanks. Every house has one or more such tanks, and the local law obliges, when houses are 108 STA/?K'S ILLUSTRATED built, that this essential reservoir shall be con- structed. The buildings are for this end usually roofed with thin slabs of limestone, periodically whitewashed to correct the porosity and to keep the surface white and clean. Level surfaces of ground on gentle slopes are also similarily prepared from which water is led into reservoirs. The water thus stored is toltiably pure as long as the tanks are kept clean. GIBBONS BAY. Just before reaching Flatt's Village on the left hand will be seen a little sandy bay, with an island beyond joined by a causeway of large stone blocks to the shore. This is known as Gibbons Bay, and will be found an excellent place for collecting shells and seaweeds at low water. Crossing the little causeway the visitor reaches GALLOWS ISLAND, on which , at its highest point, stands a weather-worn pole, this marks the spot where a slave was gib- beted for murdering his master about the year 1754, and still goes by the name of "Quashi's Pole." If the visitor be geologically inclined he will, a few yards to the north-west of the pole, not far from the shore, perceive a mass of stalagmite, which evidently once formed the floor of a cavern ; this is one of the many proofs in regard to the greater elevation of these islands, a matter that has been BERMUDA GUIDE. 109 treated on before in this work under the heading of geoloe^y. By advancing a short distance farther we come to FLATT'S VILLAGE. In olden times this pretty inlet of the sea pre- sented a different aspect from what it does now, for the shores, particularly at the head of the harbor, were lined with wharves from which good sized vessels discharged their cargoes. It was in fact one of the principal ports of Bermuda and con- siderable trade was carried on here. Even now the extent of the ruins of several houses testify to their capacity in former times. All, however, •now wears a look of desolation ; the mouldering walls with the carved portals are draped with the prickly cactus ; while gigantic paw paws and plaintains raise their leafy crowns above the whole. This is a central spot from which to visit the love- ly scenery of this neighborhood, and it has al- ways been considered a good site for a hotel ; parties are now contemplating building one oppo- site the residence of Mr. Samuel Musson, at the head of the harbor, where the cross roads meet. Overhanging the gateway to Mr. Mysson's resi- dence is the largest mahogany tree in Bermuda. This tree is thirty years old, the trunk seven i^^'i in circumference, spreading out, when about four feet from the ground, into numerous and graceful bran- ches ; it is nearly flat at the top ; the leaf is of a dark and glossy green. 110 5 T ARK'S ILL US TRA TED HARRINGTON SOUND, which lies north east of Flatt's Harbor, probabl} possesses in itself and its surroundings more pic- turesque scenery than any other locality in the is- lands. Its surface is usually calm, owing to its land- locked position, and a boating excursion on its waters, especially about the shores of Trunk Island will reveal many submarine wonders to the eye. Its northern shore, westward of Bailey's Bay church, presents a series of high cliffs, in many places quite inaccessible, much to the satisfaction of numerous tropic birds, which here, annually, and in perfect security make their nesting place and rear their young. From the water the high cliff known as the " Devil's Head'' presents a fine appearance, all ragged and torn as its face is by the storms of many winters. From out its numerous crevices spring dwarf trees and shrubs, whose only holdfast ap- pears to be the solid rock on which they grow ; while circling around its shattered brow, the tropic birds lazily float on their ambjent wings mingling their plaintive cries with the sounds of the rippling wavelets which dash on the rock-bound shore a hundred feet below. At the western end of the sound there is an out- let into Flatt's harbor through which the tide ebbs and flows with great impetus. This channel has from the earliest time been spanned by a bridge. A little to the eastward is the residence of Mr. Allen, the American consul ; during the war of the BERMUDA GUIDE. 113 rebellion he rendered his government great and im- portant service, and his berth here during that period was anything but a bed of roses, for as these islands were a base from whence the blockade runners drew their supplies, he was regarded by that fraternity and their sympathizers here, in the light of a spy upon their movements. During the visit of the Florida he was attacked b}^ some of the crew and nearly killed ; so strong was the feeling against him that he could not obtain any other place to lodge in except his office. There are two roads around Harrington Sound, the north and the south roads, both roads connect with the causeway leading to St. Georges's. The north road is a fine ocean drive of about three miles, passing by Shelly Bay, a cluster of rocks called " The Stags," Crawl Point and Bailey's Bay. Going by the south road around Harrington Sound, you pass the fine residences of Mr. Wm. Whitney, — Villa Mount Clair and Monticello, — about a mile beyond you will come to the DEVIL'S HOLE, or Neptune's Grotto, between which and the ocean there is a subterranean communication. Fish caught at the most favorable seasons of the year are kept here until wanted for use. There are many varie- ties of fish, and the spectacle is as pleasing as it is novel, and for years it has been one of the lions of Bermuda. The fish pound had originally been a 114 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED cavern, the rpof of which fell in before the advent of man on these islands. Here will be found a stock of gropers and sundry other fish which swim about and can be seen as if in an aquarium. The lovely angel fish, well named indeed, will be THE DEVIL'S HOLE. observed disporting itself with graceful motion as- cending and descending in the clear waters, as if proud of its splendid livery of blue, green and gold. The gropers are easily recognizable, as they crowd together with open mouths in hopes of a feed when the visitor arrives. Strange tales are toldof the voracity of these finny monsters, of unfor- tunate dogs slipping in and being speedily devoured, BERMUDA GUIDE, 115 and if the visitor should come to the place when the gropers are hungry, and dip the end of his boot or pocket handkerchief among the gaping throng, he will soon become convinced that they are a fear- ful lot of creatures to deal with. Following the road leading from the Devil's Hole, skirting the shore of Harrington Sound, at a dis- tance of about two miles the visitor will come to PAYNTER VALE, where snugly ensconced in a grove of line old trees lie all that remains of the old homestead of the Paynter family. Years ago it presented a far differ- ent aspect, for the house was capacious, and the gar- den and shubbery adorned with well kept walks and lawns, while a neat boundary wall ran along the public road the whole extent of the estate. Now how changed it all appears ; the house a complete ruin, with ferns growing out of the crevices, and bananas, paw-paws and cedars, hemming in its remains on every side. Near what was formerly the principal entrance gate stands a magnificent fiddle-wood tree. It was brought from Barbados about the year 1829, and planted here. Under Its lofty and wide spreading branches a cool, refresh- ing breeze is nearly always to be felt. A little to the east of the house, an avenue of tall, tapering cedar trees leads to the old burial place of the family, which has recently been covered over with blocks of stone to prevent desecration. Climb- ing *«Paynter's Hill" near by, which is quite steep, 116 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED the visitor finds himself in full view of Harrington and Flatt's Bridge and village in the distance, while a little higher he will find a patch of red ground, on which it has been said nothing in the shape of vegetation has ever been known to grow. About eighty yards northward of this patch, and situated in the adjoining wood, is a small cave known as "Chalk Cave," in which an old negro woman lived many years, and kept a pig in a sty at the entrance. On returning and recrossing the red patch, there will be seen on the left hand a deep hollow called "Plantation Hole," in which cofiee, myrtle, wild cherry, fiddle-wood and other trees are growing and entwining their branches together. This is a charming spot and well worth the trouble of descending in order to look at the coffee trees growing in a state of nature. After leaving this cavernous depression and ascending the steep hill above for a short distance the visitor will come suddenly in view of Castle Harbor with all its lovely scenery lying at his feet. Descending the slope before him and arriving at the shore he will find himself near the Government Limestone Quarry, from which large blocks of compact stone have been taken for building fortifi- cations, etc., this is the oldest and hardest limestone on the island. Turning to the right he will see a house now used as a canteen, which was built by Captain John Paynter about the year, 1750, for the storage of cargoes, and opposite which his vessel anchored. About seventy yards to the south-east BERMUDA GUIDE. ^^1 of the storehouse is a cave called ''Cooper's Hole," and well worth the visit. This was used as a store- house also when the other was full. Return- ing northward along the margin of the water, the visitor will perceive a current of water rushing almost under his feet, which is supposed to flow under the land from Harrington Sound. Still con- tinuing northward he will soon arrive at a rail fence, which, if he follows along through ferns, myrde, orange, etc., will bring him to another deep hollow called " Litde Plantation Hole." At one time this was covered with citron and orange and lemon trees, but very few now remain, owing to the great disease of 1854 that destroyed nearly all the orange trees on the isl.and. Still following the fence, he will again arrive at the ruins of the old Paynter homestead from whence he started. Just outside of the entrance gate and across the pubhc road on the shore of Harrington Sound, will be seen a cavern in the cliff, which goes by the name of ''Shark's Hole." If a boat can be obtained, this cavern is well worth investigating, for several spe- cies of sea weed are to be obtained on the rocks on either side ; while in the recess of the cave beyond by the aid of a torch, a beautiful collection of stalactites can be seen. The land which lies between Paynter Vale and the south shore, including the long narrow neck which stretches out eastward to Casde Island, is known as Tucker's Town. Why such a name should have been given it is hard to imagine, for no 118 STABK'S ILLUSTRATED town was ever known to be established there, and the neighborhood has always been considered the most secluded in Bermuda. Coming back to the main road again and following it in nearly a north- westerly course, for a distance of about a mile, the visitor will come to WALSHINGHAM. Few if any visitors to these islands ever leave them without paying one or more visits to this classic locality, through whose sylvan glades the bard of Erin loved to roam, and who has immortalized it in his musical verse. It was in 1803 that Moore visited Bermuda, hav- ing been presented with the lucrative post of Register of the Court of Vice Admiralty ; but the " distant and secluded isle " was too far from the busy world of gaiety he had left behind in the metropolis of England, and after a few months he took his depar- ture, leaving a deputy to do his work. The grounds about Walshingham are by far the most picturesque in the islands ; presenting a singu- lar chaotic appearance of broken rocks, caverns and ponds. The whole region is singularly attractive. Mimic lakes reflecting the varied hues of the rock which inclose them, with trees overhanging their banks, teem with fish wonderful in variety and color, whose motions are the ideal of grace. By-paths through the tangled wildwood lead one through a wilderness of beauty, here may be found species of BERMUDA GUIDE. 119 plants unknown in any other part of the islands ; the coffee tree grows luxuriantly and a climbing jasmine overruns both rocks and trees profusely. Nature has been lavish of her gifts all through this locality, and it is geologically one of the oldest sections of Bermuda, the soil is different to that of other parts, being of a bright red, and analysis proves it to differ also in its nature. WALSHINGHAM CAVES. No whereon the islands are the caves more beauti- ful than in Walshingham. It is fitting that nature should have her temples in such a place. Humility is one of the conditions of entrance to them, and so bending low, and making a slight descent, the visitor is soon standing in a room from whose arched roof hang large stalactites. Artificial lights bring out each in its full proportions and one contemplates with wonder this strange architecture, considering the ages it has endured. In a second cavern near by, and which is much more spacious, there is a beautiful sheet of water, clear as crystal and of an emerald tint, on which no boat has ever yet been launched to explore the unknown regions of dark- ness beyond. Possibly many a cave yet remains to be discovered, which will far exceed in grandeur anything now known ; but the present caves are quite sufficent to afibrd as much toilsome travel as the visitor would probably like to undergo. A 120 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED short distance beyond Walshingham the visitor will come to a cross road leading to the CAUSEWAY. Until 1 87 1, the only way of reaching St. George's from the main island, was by boat across the nar- row entrance from the north side into that part of Castle Harbor called "The Reach." During heavy northerly gales, the passage was extremely haz- ardous, and during the height of a gale and gen- erally for some hours after it had ceased, owing to the heavy swell rushing in here, all communica- tion was stopped, greatly to the inconvenience of the inhabitants, civil and military. To the great delight of all classes, the present causeway was constructed. It commences at a place on the Walshingham side called the Blue Hole, in which several kinds of fish may be seen, from here to Stock's Point on the St. George side the whole dis- tance is nearly two miles, it is connected with Stock's Point by an iron swing bridge 123 feet long, which spans the channel through which moderate sized craft proceed to St. George's Harbor from the north side, thereby saving the lengthened voyage all around the north side of St. George's Island. The iron bridge was constructed in England and sent out in pieces, it revolves on a circular pier, leaving two water passages for boats fifty feet wide. That part of the causeway which runs along Long Bird Island, is especially smooth and good to travel upon, and is not so much exposed to the force of c BERMUDA GUIDE. 123 heavily northerly gales as that part which connects Walshingham with the island, the passage of which in heavy weather is sometimes alarming to pas- sengers in uncovered vehicles, the water dashing in sheets completely over the way. The work on the causeway was commenced 1867, and opened free of all tolls with public rejoicings in 187 1. The whole cost was about £32,000, of which the Imperial Government contributed one fourth. MULLET BAY. After crossing the swing bridge to Stock's Point, an irregular promontory, and forming its western shore. Mullet Bay is reached, one of the many pretty little inlets with which the islands are everywhere indented. In its centre will be seen a small island, which, is now connected with the land by a wooden bridge. A short distance beyond Mullet Bay the visitor will pass a lofty hill on which is Fort St. George. The accompanying illustration is taken from it looking west. In the background is the main island, it is connected by the causeway which appears like a thread, with Long Bird Is- land, which comes next in the foreground. This island is connected, by the swing bridge, with Stock's Point, the promotory shown in the centre of the illustration. Between Stock's Point and the ship- yard is Mullet Bay, and at the foot of the hill, from 124 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED which the view is taken, is the main road following the shore line, and leading to the town of ST. GEORGE'S. This was once the chief town of the island sand residenee of the governor. The house of assembly and all public offices concentrated here, and most of the trade of the islands passed through its harbor, but from its position it was considered unsuitable for the capital ; so Hamilton, which is more centrally situated, was chosen in its stead about the latter part of the last century. The situation of the town of St. George's is very fine, rising up in steep acclivities from the sea and crowned by Fort George. Its narrow streets and oddly shaped houses give the town a charm that is quite distinctive. York street is but ten feet wide, and with its gardens crowded with semi- tropical vegetation it is like an Oriental picture. The harbor is commodious, well fortified and far more easily accessible than that of Hamilton, it is so extensive that the whole English Navy might ride easily upon its waters. In the view taken from Fort St. George looking east, there can be seen the harbor of St. George's, with Ordinance Island in the centre, and the town of St. George's on the left, while in the background the barracks can be seen crowning the hill on the left, and the entrance to the harbor on the right. A line of forts are built along the north side of St. George's, viz., Fort Albert, Fort Victoria, Fort BERMUDA GUIDE. 127 Catherine, and Fort George, — the quaint picturesque old town seems to bristle with forts everywhere. Strangers are not allowed inside of the forts, in fact there are very few Bermudians to the " manor" born that have ever been inside these works, which are said to be among the strongest in the world. The narrow- streets, constructed when carriages were unknown on the islands, wind their narrow way up the hill on which much of the town is built ; with the gardens hemmed in by high walls, over which hang different species of cacti, with paw- paws, bananas, and plantains towering above, and here and there the graceful form of the palmetto surmounting the whole, and will constantly remind the visitor of a Spanish or Eastern town. One of the objects of interest at St. George's is the old parish church, it contains several marble tablets remarkable for their age and quaint phraseol- ogy of former days. The communion plate oi massive silver was presented by King William III. in 7684, and the silver christening basin was the gift of Governor William Brown, a loyalist from Salem, Massachusetts, who was appointed gover- nor here in 1782. Close by is the Public Garden, where one can sit under the date palms one hundred and fifty years old ; here, in the ivy-covered wall at the left of the lower gate, is the monument of Sir George Somers, after whom the town is named. Only his heart is buried here, his body is buried in Dorsetshire, Eng- land. In the wall above the old monument is a 128 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED white marble tablet, erected by Governor Sir J. H. Lefroy, bearing the following inscription : Near this spot Was interred, in the year 1610, the Heart of the Heroic Admiral, Sir GEORGE SOMERS, Kt., Who nobly sacrificed his Life To carry succor To tiie infant and suffering plantation, Now The State of Virginia. To preserve his Name to Future Ages Near the scene of his memorable shipwreck of 1609, The Governor and Commander-in-Chief Of this Colony for the time being caused this tablet to be erected. 1876. ST. DAVID'S ISLAND. Taking a boat at St. George's a very pleasant trip can be taken to St. David's Island and light- house, the scenery in all parts of the island, espec- ially on the side looking over Castle Harbor, is no where to be surpassed. It is here that some of the best arrow-root to be obtained in Bermuda is grown and manufactured. The light-house on St. David's Head is worth visiting ; it is built of the native stone, has a white, fixed light, but is not of as great a height as Gibb's Hill light-house ; there is a fine view, however, to be obtained from it of the ocean and surrounding country. BERMUDA GUIDE. 131 CASTLE HARBOR. A very pleasant day may be spent in sailing about this charming sheet of water, the beauties of which on a bright sunny day, with sufficient breeze to ripple the azure waters are not to be excelled in any part of the world. Whichever way 3^ou look the eye falls upon scenes of the most picturesque character, diminutive in size it is true, yet neverthe- less miniature gems of nature. A visit should be made to Castle Island, which commands the entrance to the harbor, and on which there is the ruins of what many years ago was a fort of some importance, called the "King's Castle," a view of which is shown in Smith's engraving inserted in this work. Southampton Island is the next place to attract attention, this was also fortified for the same purpose as Castle Island, between which is the narrow entrance channel to Castle Harbor. Near this island on the south side is "Gurnet Rock," an isolated mass, being almost the only spot in Bermuda where that rare bird the dusky shearwater breeds, which is evidently the curious bird mentioned by Captain John Smith, under the name of the " cahow". The rock is almost unapproachable owing to the heavy swell of the ocean, and many are the escapes that have occured when parties have attempted to land there. After passing Southampton Island, the western shore of Nonsuch Island comes into view. This island now belongs to the Military Department. 132 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED Cooper's Island next claims attention, and visitors will not regret landing and roaming about it for an hour or two, as there is much to be seen and many shells and sea weeds to be found ; and if the boat be provided with a pair of long handled nippers, any quantity of specimens may be obtained from beneath the waters of the harbor. SOUTH ROAD. Supposing the visitor to have chosen the south side road by which to return to Hamilton, it can be taken either at Tucker's Town or at the Devil's Hole. After proceeding about two miles along this road to the westward, the visitor will perceive in a hollow below, screened from the ocean by small hills covered with cedar, a long narrow lake considered one of the pretty scenes of Bermuda, it is known as Penis- ton's Pond, the property for some miles around having been in the possession of the Peniston family for many years. The waters of Peniston's Pond are quite brackish, having communication with the outer sea by underground channels. In heavy southerly storms a perfect stream of water is forced over the shore rocks at the eastern end. giving it the appearance of a natural water course. On the southern shore of the pond, about its centre, and within a few paces of the water, are wells, used for the purpose of watering cattle, the water they contain, like all similar excavations throughout the islands, BERMUDA GUIDE. 133 is fresh above, but brackish beneath, as soon as the sea level is reached. This is of course owing to the reason that fresh water is lighter than salt. SPANISH ROCK. A few yards east of the cattle wells spoken of, just at the base of the shore hills, an open grassy patch will be seen. After passing this, proceed up through the cedar grove in front, and immediately at the top a little pathway will be seen leading to the cliff beyond, care must be taken on approaching '■-..- - - ^ S*- this precipice, for if a false step be made there is nothing to prevent a fall of fully one hundred feet into the foaming waters below. The flattened rock on which the inscription sup- posed to be made by the Spaniard, Ferdinand Camelo, is cut, is a little below the crest of the cliff, and will soon be observed by the number of names carved upon it by visitors to this memorable spot. The following cut is a faithful representation of it, as it now appears, but it is feared that some ruthless hand, judging from the reckless manner in which names are now cut around it, will sooner or later destroy this extremely interesting relic of antiquity. 134 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED Returning again to the wells on Peniston Pond, and following the road the visitor will pass Smith's Parish Church, which was erected about twenty- five years ago. This edifice was preceeded by an old antiquated structure, and having no tower the bell was hung in the branches of an old cedar growing close by, until a heavy gale prostrated the tree, and the church became dangerous to enter. The old bell possesses a fine sonorous tone, although small in size. How it came to Bermuda is not known, but from an inscription on its rim in French, we learn that it was cast at Nantes, in the year 1771. It probably came from some of the French West India Islands, during the great war at the com- mencement of the present century, when sacrilege, pillage and slaughter were freely indulged in. MODEL FARM. Just at the west end of the graveyard will be seen a gateway leading up the hill in a southerly direction; this leads to the "model farm," estab- lished during the administration of Governor Reid for the purpose of exhibiting to the islanders the modern system of agriculture. Before this farm was established, the plough was almost unknown on the islands, and the heavy English hoe of slavery days was considered the best implement to till the small amount of soil then devoted to cultivation. Two agriculturists were brought from Scotland, ^essrs. Fox and McGall, to superintend the farm. BERMUDA GUIED. 135 Scotch ploughs of the most improved patterns and various other implements were imported, and the cedar and sage scrub was soon transformed into fertile meadows and waving corn fields. While Governor Reid was in Bermuda the farm prospered ; but after his departure, no one taking an interest in the good work, and the superin- tendents becoming discontented, and at last leaving the island, it was suffered to remain idle for several years, and was at last sold into private hands. But although this model farm did not prove success- ful, yet there is no doubt that from this date culti- vation began to increase, to a great extent owing to the introduction of improved agriculturial imple- ments, and the progress has been maintained to the present day. At the bottom of one of the fields on a knoll overlooking the water is the remains of Smith's Fort, one of the ancient fortifications shown in Smith's engraving. SMITH'S MARSH. About a quarter of a mile westward from the farm commences Smith's Marsh, a long narrow hollow, filled with sedges, rushes, palmettos and scrub. It is always wet, more particularly at high tides, as it has underground communication with the outer sea. In former days this hollow was higher than at present, as the presence of giant cedars now lying prostrate under the boggy soil sufiiciently testify. The cultivated ground border- 136 STARK'S ILL US TEA TED ing the marsh is more fertile than that of the upland, owing to the moisture it contains, which, even in times of great drought, never wholly leaves it. On the summit of the hill, northward of the marsh, will be observed a large stone building, formerly known as Devonshire College, but lately converted into a Lunatic Asylum. As a college it certainly ought to have succeeded, for there is a great want felt in the islands for such an establish- ment. Near the entrance to the college grounds on the right hand, will be observed an old ruin. This is all that remains of the school house that was erected when Richard Norwood was schoolmaster. About two miles from Devonshire Bay along the coast westward, is Hungry Bay, an excellent place for the visitor to gain some idea of what a tropical mangrove swamp must be. Fortunately the denizens of the Bermudian mangrove swamps are not the dangerous creatures usually found in like localities in the tropics. Near the entrance to this bay on the eastern side, will be seen the ruins of a building formerly used as a magazine. A battery existed here also. Regaining the public road again, the visitor is now only a mile or so from Hamilton, the point of departure. THE MIDDLE ROAD. There is a public highway not often traversed by strangers, leading from Hamilton through the par- ishes of Devonshire and Smith's to the Flatt's which BERMUDA GUIDE. 137 p iill'll'.i|iil!''l in iiliiiiii 138 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED possesses some interesting and very pretty scenery ai intervals. About a mile from town on this road the military station at Prospect is passed on the left hand and about another mile's distance onward lies Brackish Pond an extensive morass, on the skirt of which grow some fine specimens of cedar trees, while amongst the close thicket of shrubs and palmettos which tenant its interior, some giant ferns and aquatic plants of divers species occur, which are not seen in the open landscape. Near the skirts of this pond, surrounded by some of the finest cedars on the island, stands the old antiquated structure which formerly served as the parish church of Devonshire. It has not been used since the new church which stands near by was completed. There is an old cedar tree stand- ing in the churchyard which is said to be the oldest now existing in the islands. HAMILTON TO SOMERSET AND IRELAND ISLAND. We will now suppose the visitor is desirous of proceeding in a westerly direction to see the other portion of the group. Let him proceed along Front street going to the eastward, skirting along the shores of Hamilton Harbor, and before he arrives at the end of the harbor he will perceive four fine specimens of the cabbage palm, with trunks as smooth as if shaved, and bearing above the curious bunch of foliage, which, from its resem- BERMUDA GUIDE. 139 blance to the vegetable in question, has given the tree its name. It is a common tree in the moun- tains of the West India Islands, where it rears its head far above those of the surrounding forest trees. Several specimens of the cocoanut palm are also to be seen here, as well as numerous shrubs, all natives of the West Indies. The property on which they grow, which possesses a very prettily situated residence, embosomed in trees, belong to Mr. and Mrs. Reid. At the bend of the road round the harbor head several mangrove trees grow in the mud. A little farther on, on the right hand side of the road will be observed a fine tamarand tree stand- ing in a neat garden ; while on the left, on the side of a wall there is a hedge of the " snufFplant" which, when in flower, emits a peculiar odor. It is a native of the west coast of America, from Califonia to Peru. SAND HILLS. Passing along the main road the visitor will pass Paget Parish Church, built in 1796. The Paget sand hills are easily reached from the church, being not more than half a mile from it. This steile local- ity, which is an extremely wild and lonely spot, is well worth a visit, for here can be seen the mode adopted by nature to form Bermuda, as is described in the article on "geology "in this work. Here can be seen the drifting sand gradually increasing its deposits and elevating the land, thereby overcom ing cedar groves and cultivated ground, and in one 140 '^^ TARK' S ILL US TEA TED place even, the dwelling of man, the chimney of the cottage alone rises above the sand to shov^ the posi- tion of the house. On the western side of the sand hills there is now a plateau of hardened drift sand, forming gradually into rock. At the foot of these sand hills near the shore, runs a charming stretch of sandy beach. At low water within wading distance of the beach, will be seen a series of "boilers" as they are called; rounded masses of rock hollowed within, containing sea water, having their margins raised by the incrust- ing serpula. About a quarter of a mile east of the sand hills are the Royal Engineer Quarries, from whence the most compact stone to be found in the islands is procured, for the purpose of building for- tifications, and other government work. The stone taken at this spot is extremely hard and durable, and is more of the nature of mountain limestone than any other to be found in the group. It is supposed that this locality is the oldest of Bermu- dian land. Returning to the public road a little beyond Paget Church, the next object to attract attention will be the prettily situated church of Warwick, which overlooks a little lake known as " Warwick Pond." The scenery in the immediate neighborhood is very fine ; hills clothed with ever- green cedars to their summits, and having at their base the picturesque little lake, reflecting the foliage on its calm unruffled surface. About a mile beyond Warwick Church occurs a very pretty little inlet of the Great Sound, bear- GiBBs' Hill Lighthouse BERMUDA GUIDE. 143 ing the name of Hearn Bay. Some of the houses in this locahty have an antiquated appearance, and were evidentl}^ buih many years ago. After leav- ing this quiet Httle place, and proceeding a mile or so futher on the road, the towering form of GIBB'S HILL LIGHT-HOUSE appears on ihe ridge of a hill to the left, there is a road leading up to it, and carriages can proceed close up to the tower. This commanding structure, possessing one of the most powerful lights to be seen in any part of the world, is situated on the summit of Gibb's Hill, the highest point of land in the western portion of Bermuda. The light itself stands three hundred and sixty-two feet above sea level, it is a revolving light and appears ever}^ fiftj^-four seconds ; from an elevation of only ten feet above water it can be seen a distance of twenty-five miles, while at forty feet it can be easily distin- guished thirty miles ofF. The tower, which is of cast iron, was constructed in London, and sent out in plates, the last of which was put into place Oct. 9, 1845. The cost exclusive of the light machinery was £5,500, all of which the Imperial Government paid on the understanding that the colony would furnish the necessary funds for lighting, repairing, etc., which has always been granted. A splendid view can be obtained from the gallery of this light, the finest of course in the islands, and one which no visitor to Bermuda should fail to see. It is a bird's eye view of the whole group, nothing 144 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED is left out, the whole cluster of islets lies at our feet, set as it were in a plane of azure with emerald tints. The view shown in the first part of this work was taken from this point. There are some very pretty little coves under the light-house, having their shores irregularly indented by rocks, which in some places become detached from the cliffs above. Small indeed is the spot occupied by Bermuda on the wild w^aste of waters, and far removed from the nearest land ; nor is our feeling of security the more confirmed when stationed at the summit of this light-house to witness the effect of some heavy gale ; when the rolling seas, which have been unimpeded in their course for hundreds of miles, thunder against the shore, and the force of the tempest makes the whole fabric vibrate to its very foundation. About half a mile from the light-house stands Port Royal, or Southampton Parish Church, in a very exposed situation near the verge of the cliffs which overhang the south shore. There are some very interesting records belonging to this parish church, bearing date so far back as 1639. SOMERSET. Somerset bridge connects the island of Somerset or Sandy's with the main island. Immediately east of the bridge on the right hand, will be observed a jarge mansion in a grove of trees, known as * 'Bridge BERMUDA GUIDE. 145 House," it was formerly the homestead of the Tucker family. To the westward of the bridge, on a neck of land which protects the waters of Elis Har- bor from the ocean swell, rises "Wreck Hill.'' Here in days of yore, the inhabitants would con- gregate after a tempestuous night to look out for wrecks on the western reefs, which have always been considered the most dangerous of all the reefs surrounding the islands. Elis Harbor is a perfect little gem of an inlet, which to be seen in its greatest perfection should be visited on a bright sunny day, when its waters appear of the lightest emerald tint. But at any time it is beautiful ; so calm and peaceful does it lie surrounded by its rocky shores, clothed almost to the waters edge with the evergreen foliage of the scented cedar. About half a mile from here the visitor will pass the parish church of Somerset, formerly known as Sandy's. But little is known in regard to the old church which existed on the same spot prior to 1783. At the extremity of Somerset Island lies Man- grove Bay, so named from the number of those trees which formerly grew around its margin. The scenery here is very pretty, although the land is almost level with the water. On the other side of the neck of land which divides Mangrove Bay from the ocean lies a stretch of sandy beach well worth examining ; for as it lies open to the heav}^ westerly gales some fine specimens of sponges, shells and sea weeds are often cast ashore. 146 STAJiK'S ILLUSTRATED IRELAND ISLAND. Waterford and Boaz Islands connect Somerset with Ireland Island, their surfaces have been par- tially levelled by convict labor during the time that these islands were burdened by the presence of the worst of criminals transported from England. In the former island is situated the old burial ground of the convicts, where many a felon has found a last resting place far away from the scenes of his crime. On Boaz Island the principal bar- racks and stores for the convicts were established, but some were quartered at Ireland ; and when their number increased to too great an extent to allow of accommodation on land, they were distributed among old man-of-war hulks at anchor offshore. Probably the most important position in the Ber- mudas is Ireland Island ; which although not much more than a mile in length, or a quarter of a one in breadth, contains the dockyard and other establish- ments connected with the Royal Navy, a more extended description of which has been given in this work, in the article on "Military and Navy," it being unnecessary to repeat it here. The "Royal Naval Hospital" stands on a hill immediately above the dockyard, while beneath, occupying a large space of ground, prettily orna- mented by cedar groves and smooth grassy glades, is the Naval Cemetery. Here are several melan- choly memorials, some to officers and crews of men of war which sailed from Bermuda and were lost at BERMUDA GUIDE, 147 sea ; and others to young officers of the navy or army, whose lives were cut short ere they began their wordly career. There are three Admirals buried here, one of them, Sir Charles Paget, left Jamaica, in January 1839, ^^ ^- -^* Steamer "Tartarus," to proceed to Bermuda for the benefit of his health ; he being ill of yellow fever at the time. But it is related that for five weeks the steamer could not find the islands, having no chronometers on board and being unable to make out the latitude. At last it finally arrived safely at its destination, but the voyage was too much for the admiral and only his mortal remains reached here. There is also a memorial stone to the memory of the officers and crew of H. M. Ships "Acorn" and " Tempest, " which acted as mail packets between Halifax and Bermuda and singular to relate, left their respective ports at the same time, and were never heard of afterwards. At the extremity of Ireland Island, and looking over the sea, stands a conspicuous building having a veranda running all around it. This was form- erly the "Commissioners House," and was built at the expense of the English government about 1828, at an expense of £90,000. It ceased to be used for a number of 3^ears and remained untenanted and fell into decay. Now it is used as quarters for the military stationed at Ireland Island. The anchorage ground opposite Ireland, on the east side, where several men-of-war are generally to be seen, is known as " Grassy Bay." 148 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED TO IRELAND ISLAND BY WATER. In 1880, an English built steam launch was run between Hamilton and Ireland Island, this not prov- ing adequate, in 1882 the Moonedyne, a wooden steam yacht of good model, was purchased in New York, and skilfully brought to Bermuda, after a very rough voyage, and placed on this route. The most ample facilities are afforded visitors in this ves- sel of seeing the Somerset section of Bermuda, hither- to but little explored by visitors. Passing through " One-Rock Passage," at the " Head of the Lane,'' 3^ou enter "Great Sound," with "Grassy Bay "in the distance, and the anchorage ground off the dockyard, the sweep of the Somerset shore being a graceful curve. At Oxford, on the right, will be observed a monument erected by the 56th Regiment, w^hen removed there during the 3^ellow fever epidemic, made with rough tools, bayonets and iron hoops. As you approach Ireland Island, the most prom- inent objects to be seen are the Naval Superin- tendent's house to the westward, and the Com- missioner's house on East Point and "The Camber," a large artificial basin with strongly built piers, in which is the famous floating dock "Bermuda." The steamer makes two trips daily between Hamilton and Ireland Island. The visitor should take the morning trip and return in the after- noon, this will give ample time to see all the attractions there. BERMUDA GUIED. 151 ROYAL BERMUDA YACHT CLUB. The house of this Club is situated on Front street, and from its veranda a fine view of the harbor and opposite hills of Paget and Port Royal can be obtained. The Club has about one hundred and twenty-five members and is under the patronage of Admiral H. R. H. the Duke of Edinburgh. There are fourteen yachts owned by the members of the club. It is a social as well as a yachting organization. The Club House contains an excel- lent reading room, restaurant, sleeping accommoda- tions, billiard room, etc. Its members are com- posed of Bermudians of the highest social stand- ing, also many naval and military officers. Stran- gers can become honorary members of the club, and be entitled to all the privileges of same for a limited period of time, on being introduced by a member. To many visitors and the majority of the resi- dents, yachting amongst the islands and in the sound will always remain one of the principal attractions in Bermuda. The Bermudian yacht is peculiar to the island in shape and rig. They are carvel built, of the native red cedar, which is peculiarly suitable for the pur- pose, being buoyant and wonderfully durable. They are deeper and narrower in proportion to their length than the boats found in other waters. The cedar wood, when polished and varnished, has a handsome and effective appearance, and the yachts are consequently not often painted outside. 152 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED In size the yachts vary from three to twelve tons. They are sloop rigged, without any gaff, the main- sail being " leg-of-mutton " in shape, the other sails consist of a jib, (in bad weather a storm jib is used) a flying jib, a spinnaker, a topsail and occasionally a water sail underneath the boom, these four latter are used only in light weather. The peculiar rig of the yachts enables them to turn almost in their own length and to sail "close- hauled" or near to the wind, to a degree unknown elsewhere. The intricacy of the channels among the reefs and between the numerous small islands renders this quality absolute indispensable. A programme for cruising is arranged period- ically, their races are very interesting, and the whole island partakes in the excitement, and every movement of the competitors is watched with crit- ical eye by the interested spectator. Prizes are given and eagerly competed for, and on such occa- sions it is quite a gala-day on the water. There is an amateur " Dingey Club " which has done much to develope the taste for yachting among the youth of the place. These little boats called ' ' dingeys " are rigged in the same way as the yachts, and of course great skill is needed in hand- ling them, for they carry an astonishing large amount of canvas and spars, when engaged in the regattas. It is scarcely possible to conceive a more beauti- ful sight than a boat race in Bermuda. The trim yachts dashing with headlong speed through the BERMCDA Gi'IDE. 153 clear, sparkling water, with their varnished sides and snowv canvas glistening in the bright sunshine, make a picture of inexpressible grace and beauty. Yachts can be hired for $5.00 per day, that will accommodate from eight to ten persons comfortably, this price includes the services of a good boatman to take care of the yacht. Good lishing can be had almost everywhere, and there are many delightful spots on the numerous islands where camping can be enjoyed to the greatest perfection. It is well worth visiting Bermuda, if only to enjoy the exhila- rating delights of sailing, rowing, camping, lishing and out-door life generally. THE ISLAND'S IN THE SOUND. The large sheet of water which is enclosed by the curve of the land running from Paget Parish to Ireland Island, is known as ''The Great Sound.'' It contains several islands, generally of small size, nearly all of which are wooded and are very pic- turesque. Tucker's Island, which lies close in shore near Somerset Bridge, is well worthy of a visit ; and the visitor should not omit to notice a lovely little cavern upon it. Grace, -Ricket. Moses and Dar- rell's Islands, wdiich run in a line with the pre- vious island are of small size, but are excellent places for camping. The latter island was formerly used as a quarantine station, and there is a grave- yard there in which are many victims of small pox, the buildings w^ere burnt some years ago and are 154 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED now in ruins. Port's Island was also used as a quaran- tine, and possessed a hospital, in the graveyard many victims of yellow fever have found a resting place, and odd enough this island has always been a popular resort of pic-nic parties ; and the very apartments which the fever-stricken patients have lived and died in are often used for dancing. It is certainly a pretty spot, and the hard pine floors are smooth and large, and are excellent for dancing pur- poses, but an air of melancholy pervades the whole island. There are several monuments here which tell their own tale of sorrow and suffering. Long Island to the seaward of Port's Island, has also head- stones to the memory of several soldiers who lie buried there. Fern Island is to the eastward of the latter, and is the property of the Bermuda Yacht Club ; it contains a building, and is much resorted to by members of the club, where turtle dinners, dancing and other festivities are indulged in. THE PRESS IN BERMUDA. The following is a brief description of the news- papers published in Bermuda, during the past hun- dred years. The first newspaper published here was issued in 1784, and was styled the "Bermuda Gazette," J. Stockdale printer, St. George's. On the first page was a copy of" The Definite Treaty between Great Britain and the United States of America." BERMUDA GUIDE. 155 The paper met with fair success until the death of Stockdale in 1808, when it passed into the hands of his daughters, and was continued by them. In 1816, with the 1,616 number the pubHcation of the Bermuda Gazette at St. George's ceased. The publication was transferred to Hamilton, under the name of ''The Bermuda Gazette and Hamilton and St. George's Weekly Advertiser," Free and Loyal, Charles Rollin Beach publisher, (who mar- ried Sarah Stockdale.) Beach's relations with the governor were far from being cordial, and probably on this account he sold his plant in 1824 and emigrated to Connecticut ; he died in Buffalo, N. Y. The merchants purchased Beach's stock and continued the publication a few months when it stopped. Mr. Edmund Ward published ''The Bermuda Royal Gazette from 1809 to 18 16. He was induced to come from Halifax and publish this paper in con- sequence of a difficulty between Governor Hodgson and the people of Bermuda, which produced libel- ous attacks upon his government, these libels ap- pearing in the only paper published in the island. The governor sent to Halifax for a person he wished to appoint " King's Printer," and Mr. Ward had the honor of publishing the first "Royal Gazette.' During the administration of Sir James Cockburn, he published an article relating to the capture of the American frigate "President," Commodore Deca- tur, by the " Endymion," Captain Hope, in which it was stated that the " President" narrowly escaped 156 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED recapture by sixty-eight men that were concealed in the sail room. This statement the governor ordered Mr. Ward to retract, and he, declining to do so, was deprived of his commission as " Kings Printer," and he soon after returned to Halifax and published a paper there. *' The Royal Gazette " was lirst issued in 1828, under the name of David Ross Lee, his son, Mr. Donald McPhee Lee, on his return from Halifax, assumed the management on the issue of the third number, and continued it until the time of his death in 1883, a practical journalistic experience of <3ver fifty-five years. The publication of the pape: was continued by his son, Mr. Gregory Vose Lee. This is the government paper of Bermuda. ''The Bermuda Colonist" is published in vSt. Geor- ge's every Wednesday morning. The " Colonist" was established in 1866 by Mr. Charles Brady, and is now published by Mr. S. Seward Toddings. When it was first established it was published bi-weekly, but soon after it came into the possession of Mr. Toddings it was enlarged and converted into a weekly newspaper. One of the principal features of the paper is the publication of full reports of the Debates of the House of Assembly during the Ses- sion of the Legislature. "The Bermudian" was first published in 1833 by Mr. Jenkins who sold out and went to China as a missionary. The paper then passed into the hands of Mr. Washington, who continued its pub- lication until his death in i860. The business was BERMUDA GUIDE. 157 then carried on by his widow until 1878, when it ceased to exist. " The Bermuda" newspaper was established by Mr. William Martin in 1845, and in the following year Mr. RobertWard became the publisher of it, and it was issued by him until 1857. In 1848 he pub- lished an article containing some severe strictures on the House of Assembly, which led that body to institute a suit for libel against him, and which resulted adverse to Mr. Ward, who was sentenced to a fine of £50 and costs with imprisonment for some twenty days. Popular feeling was with the editor. "The Mirror, " a bi-weekly, was conducted by Mr. George A. Lee, for a limited period and was a creditable production. ' ' The Times and Advocate" was established by Messrs. Parker & Co., in 1871. "The Home and People's Journal " was started in 1882 by Mr. John J. Parker. The two papers became consolidated under the name of the " Bermuda Times, or People's Journal," in 1883. The "New Era," A. L. Spedon, editor and proprietor, was first issued in 1881. It is based on strictly liberal and independent principles, and is issued every^ Wednesday noon at Hamilton. THE END. THE BERMUDA INLANDS, . Thtre are coral reefs surrounding thts, islands at a distance of from fire to ten mitet an the north side, and close to the shor JfrnOZO-in^ECTRO. CO.BOSTOy. ^H«C, J INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. American House, Boston. 162 Lusher, X. E., . 169 American House, Hamiit* ;. 388 Lightbourn, T. J. & Sou, 170 AtkiDS,E. P. &Co., 18-i Lane,D.G., 184 Brown, B. F. & Co., 164 Livery stables. 169, 184 Barritt, John & Co., 173 Morrison, C. E. & Co. 164 Bell, Ebenezer, 174 Mason & Hamlin, . 165 Burrows, Jno. F. & Co., 176 Melbourne House, 175 Bicycles & Tricycles, . 163 Miles, Thomas, 180 Boarding Houses, . 167, 187 Masters , Samuel A . , 185 Commission Houses, 1G5, 1(J4 l.;9,172, Masters, Jobn E., . 187 17:5, 175, 17(; ,],>2, 185 Miles, Thomas, 186 Cunningham Company, . 163 Nelmes, S., ... 178, 179 Conyers, C. T., 172 Newton, Jobn H., . 172 Chambers, J. L., 184 Photo-Electrotype Co.. . 166, 192 Crown Bottling Compuiiy, 187 Peniston, W. S., 176 Curtis & Co. . 165 Parker House, 163 Darren, J. H. Jr. . . 173 Quebec Steamship Co., . 190 Duerden, R. H., .173 Kevere House, Boston, . 163 Dickenson, Ormond L., . 182 Robinson, C. H., . 177 Dickenson, B. E. & Son, . 184 Robinson & Stephenson. 191 Dyer, Henry T., . . 185 Stone, Charles S. & Co.. 164 Engraving Photo, . 166, 192 Stone, Mrs. B. X., . 167 Fox, John A., 184 Simmons, Edgar F.. 167 Frith, Alix. E., 172 Spurling, D., . 175 Gosling Brothers, . 167 Spurling, Geo., 182 Griset, Wm. Henry, - . 176 Seon, D. E., . . . . 185 Globe Hotel, . 182 Scarborough House, 187 Hart, George S. & Co., . 166 Steamship Companies, 1^7, 189, 190 Hotels, . 162, 163, 17.- ,1.-2,188 Trimingham Brothei .s, 171 Heyl,J. B., 172, 1S6 Thompson, A. R., . 175 Hughes, W. H. . 170 Trotti&Cox, . 187 Inglis, Albert, 167 Union Line Steamship, . 189 Jackson, J. H., . 169 Vendome Hotel, 162 James, Henry A.. . . 170 Walker, B.W. & Co.. . 169 James, W.T., 181 White, Fred. A., . . 170 Keeney, J. C, . . 169 Wadson, Thomas J., 175 Kendrick.J., . . • 185 Wolff, E.W. . . , 180 Kerrisk, T., . 173 Wainwright, J. X. & Co., 183 r.ockwood & Ingham, . 168 162 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. AMERICAN HOUSE, BOSTON, U.S.A. Conveniently located for either business or pleasure. This well-known house has an established reputation for The Uniform Excellence of its Table, The Cleanliness and Comfort of its Rooms, And that careful attention to details so essential in a FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, RECENTLY RE-DECORATED and RE-FURNISHED HANOVER NEAR WASHINGTON STREET. HENRY B. RICE & CO. THE VENDOME, Coninionwealth Ave. and Dartmouth St. In Every Respect First-Class. It is Thoroughly Fire-Proof. J. W. WOLCOTT, Proprietor, STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. 163 ESTABLISHED IN 1847. REVERE HOUSE, BOWDOIN SQUARE, BOSTON, MASS. Centrally Located near all the principal Business Houses, Theatres, &c. Horse Cars to all parts of the City, and to and from all Railroad Stations, pass the door. THE HOUSE STILL RETAINS ITS OLD TIME REPUTATION FOR EXCELLENCE OF TABLE AND SERYICE. CHAS. B. FERRIN, Proprietor. Harvey D. Parker. Joseph H. Beckman. Edward O. Punchard. Parker House, SCHOOL STREET, BOSTON, Centrally located, in the centre of the City, and convenient to all the Depots, and places of Amusement. Special Attention given to Club Dinners. Private Dinner Parties and Wedding Receptions. Private Parlors for Families. BICYCLES AND THICYCLES. 1J3B "BJ!^VMD" Upi^DSTE?. QF ALL OUR CELEBRATED MAKES SUPPLIED DIRECT or delivered free on board vessel at Liverrool, as our Bermuda customers may prefer. tiend stamp tor llustrated catalogue. THE CUNNINGHAM COMPANY, (ESTAKLISHED 1877,) Importing Manufacturers Birycles and Tricyclc§, BOSTON, MASS., U. S. A. 164 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. C. E. MORRISON. F. E. RICHARDSON. S. H. ELLIS. C. E. MORRISON & CO,, Commission Merchants, -AND DEALERS IN- FRUITS AND PRODUCE, Bermuda Produce a Specialty, FANEUIL HALL MARKET, BOSTON, MASS. HIGHEST AWARD and ONLY MEDAL for Shoe Dressing, &c., at Paris Exposition, 1878. Manufacturers of the Celebrated FRENCH DRESSING — AND— SATIN POLISH. None genuine without Paris Medal on bottle. Beware ol Imitations. Manufacturers of the ARMY AND NAVY BLACKING. CH-A-I^LES S. STOISTE COTTO]V -«SURGIC;iL ELASTIC BAJ^D^IGES,* Thigh Hose, Knee Hose, Thigh Pieces, Knee Caps, Anklets, 3-4 Hose, Leggings, Abdominial Belts, Suspensories, &c. MADE OF THE BEST IMPORTED RUBBER THREAD. No. 85 WABBEN ST., BOSTON HIGHLANDS^ ALL ORDERS By MAIL PROMPTLY ATTENPSP TO, sfAEK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. 165 Mason & Hamlin ORGANS Are certainly best, having been awarded highest medals at all Great World's Exhibitions for seventeen years; no other American Organs having obtained such at any. A trifle higher-priced, but, considering Quality and Durability, much the cheapest. CATAI.OGUES liY aiATL, FREE. PIANOS. Improved Method of Stringing. The Most Important Improveuu nt EflPected in Haifa Century is Embodied in these Pianos. Entire Iron Frames, to which the strings are directly attached l)v metal fastenings, securing special adaptations to tiying climates and increased capacity to stand in tune; will not require tuning one quarter as often as pianos on the old system. CIRCULARS BY MAII-, FREE. MASON & HAMLIN ORGAN AND PIANO CO., 154TEEM0STST., WEASTIMST.. IM WABASli AVPCE, BOSTON. NEW YORK. CHICAGO. CURTIS & CO.; WHOLESALE lommission m Merchants, m AND DEALERS IN FRUIT AND VEGETABLES, Special attention given to the Sale of Bermuda Produce. 104 & 106 Faneuil Hall Market, BOSTON. MASS. Joseph H. Curtis. George S. Curtis. George H. Lawrence Stuart C. Miller. 166 S TA UK • S JL I. US Til A TED B ERMIJD A G VlDlL ESTABLISHED 1861. HART & CO WHOLESALE DEALERS IN GEORGE S Butter "and Cheese, 35 PEARL ST, & 24 BRIDGE ST., NEW YORK, U.S.A. Especial attention given to filling orders for wrirm climates, being proprietors and sole agcnis for the following well-known brands of cheese manufactured expressly for this purpose: L. J. RANDALL'S *^ o -a. i.2. g- .i^ En. © X 1 c a. , Gloucester and Unadella. A. MILES & SON'S £ng:lish Dairy and Xutmeg: AND WHITING'S Pine Apple Cheese. ^s- This Cut represents the Young ^^1 American Cheese which weigh ^^ eight or nine pounds each, and are •' put up four in a case. They are manufactured from the ;,5s^sg^ purest milk and cream especially ^^i^^ for warm climates. jgs' The process of manufacture ' ' being patented none are genuine except those bearing this brand. PHOTO-ELECTROTYPE Is the name of a new process of Engraving by Photography at LESS than ONE HALF THE COST OF WOOD ENGRAVING ! The plates are equal to the finest wood cuts, and in pointof depth superior. We furnish an Electrotype all ready for the printer's use. We can do every description of work, Machinery, Furniture Buildings, Autograph Letters, Illiistratious for Trade Catalogues, etc. mmom CO., 63 silver M, Mon, M STAliK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. 167 Wholesale Grocer Ap Pi^ovision Dealer, ST. G-IEOieOE'S. Always on hand Hams, Butter, Bacon, Cheese, Flour, Corn, Meal, Sugars, Teas, Tobaccos, &c., and a full assortment of Eating and Seed Potatoes, and Fresh Vegetables. Special attention given to supplying: Canteens and Military Messes. INGLIS' Lemonade, Ginger Ale and Soda Water.— Best in Bermuda. pes' ICE supplied to regular customers and the public during the summer months. A CARD. PRIVATE BOARD. East Park Street, HAMILTON. EDGAR F. SIMMONS, HAMILTON, BERMUDA. 40 Front St., (up stairs). ^0slittg IBrptliers, Wine and Sfirit Merchants^ Hamilton and St. George's, Established upwards of o|2. s. half a century. ^e-twuda, 168 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. LOCKWOOD & INGHAM. IMPORTERS OF English I Foreign Millinery Gents' FuriSishiDg^ U, Silk Dnserwear : Specialty, millflERY AND DREMAKINfi ON THE PREMISES. HAMILTON, - BERMUDA, STARK'S ILLXISTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. i()9 J. C. KEENEY, Wholesale and Retail Dealel- in Provisions, Fine Groceries and Dry Goods, Harness, Furnishing Goods, &c., Two doors West of the Gazette Office, REID STREET, HAMILTON, BERMUDA. B. W. WALKER & CO.. Commission merchants, i;"wAlK''E" Hamilton, Bermuda. J. H. JACKSON'S Livery Stables, REID STREET, Next East, Post Office, HAMILTON. N, S, LUSHER, . Photographer, 42 Front Street, Hamilton, Bermuda. itO STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. W. H. HUGHES, Wholesale and Retail Grocer, No 34 Front Street, FRED. A. WHITE, Wholesale and Retail Dealer in English and American Preserved 10 h. 12 Queen Street, HAMILTON, BERMUDA. Families supplied at Ijowest Prices. f . I. ilGHTBOURJ^ k iON, SPECIALTIES CONSISTING OF Clarets^ Gins, Whiskies, Champagne and L,ager<, 29 FRONT STREET, HAMILTON. HENRY A. JAMES, Watch Maker, Jeweler, FRONT ST., HAMILTON, BERMUDA. Sl'ABK'S JL^.l S'I'RATED BERMUDA GUIDE. 1/1 TRIMINGflAM BROS., MERCHANTS, AND IMPORTERS OF English t Foreign Dry Goods CLOTHING, HATS, BOOTS and SHOES, &c., &c. Millinery and Dressmaking under Skilful and Experienced Hands on the Premises. Agents for THE llVERPdOL AND KINDON m GLOBE INSURANCE Oil. Fire and liife Policies Issued at Moderate Kates. trimingham brothers, 29 & 30 Front Street, Hamilton. ii'2 STARK'S ILLVSi^RAtED JiERMtTDA Gt/tDM. -■ - Ml f. I C. T. CONYERS. Wholesale and Retail Grocer, ANIJ DEALER IN TEAS, COFFEES, SUGARS, AND ENGLISH AND AMERICAN GOODS, fi/o. 9 West Front St. . HAMIL TON. AI.SO, AGENT FOR JOHH H. HEWTOH, Produce Commission Merchani, 204 Duane Street, And 7 Erie Buildings, NEW YORK. Refer to Irving National Bank, New York. ESTABLISHED 1865. ALIX, E, FRITH. O • ^1^ vS' w » • FRONT STREET, HAMILTON. JAMES B. HEYL, Wholesale and Retail Druggist and Commission Merchant, IMPORTER OF FRENCH, ENGLISH AND AMERICAN Soda Water in Bottles. HAMILTON, BERMUDA. STABK'S ILLUSTRATED BEEMUDA GUIDE. 173 R. H. DUERDEN GENERAL Conuntsstort ~MeT'clxaTit AND AUCTIONEER 7 to 14 FRONT STREET, HAMILTON, BERMUDA. Consignments Carefully Handled. ESTABLISHED 1874. JOHN BARRITT & CO., MANUFACTURERS OF Double Soda, Tonic and Mineral Waters, And other iErated and Carbonated Beverages, in Siphons and Portable Fountains. The best of Crated and Seltzer Waters. Beverages of all flavors kept con- stantly on hand in Codd's Patent Stopper Bottle. Any other kind of bottles filled to order. Satisfaction guaranteed or money refunded. Sptcial terms to large consumers. Canteens and Military Messes. Highest testirr.ovials from medical gentlemen and others. Address orders to JOHiT Bakritt & Co., East Broadway and Victoria Sts., Hamilton, Bermuda. ~"t. kerrisk, R. B. Y. C. BUILDING, m&mtvs&'m. J. H. DARRELL, JR., mm mtXtUMi ITALIAN WAREHOUSE GOODS. Oia Wln^s, Spirits, 3J^lt Liquors, «&p. 174 STARK'S JLLUSTRATED BEUMUnA CUinE. '5 \ EBENEZER BELL DKALEU IN General Dry Goods -AND FANCY GOODS. AGENT FOR L. PRANG & CO.'S CARDS, CHROMOS, PICTURES, &c. Frames, Albums and Easels, Trunks, Satchels, Toys, &c. Marine Specimens and Fancy Work. Coal and Oil Stoves and Fittings, Lamps and Tinware. Also in Grocery Department, Tea and Coffee, Wholesale and Retail, GENERAL GROCERIES, &c. Nos. 5, 7 and 9 Church Street, West, HAMILTON, BERMUDA, STARK' a ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. 175 D. SPURLING, Wholesale and Retail Grocer, DEALER IN Ale, Porter, Wines and Provisions. B URNABT ST. , HAMIL TON. A. R. THOMPSON, Wholesale and Retail Dealer in English, French and American Canned Goods, Furniture and House Furnishing Goods OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, 3, 5 & 7 QUE^N ST., HAMILTON, BERMUDA. BAKERY.— FINE BREAD AND CAKE always on hand and served at Shortest Notice. ^~^ THOMAS J. WADSON, General Commission Merchant, AND AUCTIONEER, * MELBOURNE ^^ HOUSE,* PARLIAMENT ST., HAMILTON, BERMUDA. J. W^. HARNETT, Pro prietor. Large airy bedrooms with fireplaces. Spacious Verandas. 4^SPECIAL TERMS MADE; FOR THE SmASON.-ied 176 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. JNO.F. BURROWS. CHAS. A. V. FRITH. JNO. F. BURROWS & CO., Commission Merchants AjSD General Agents, 63 Front St., Hamilton, Bermuda. f^^ Purchases of Produce for Foreign Account made on accommodating terms. ~W7S. PENISTON, Private Board and Lodging, FOR LADIES AND GENTIiEMEN. " JACKVILLE," 2J MILES FROM FLATTS' VILLAGE, HARRINGTON SOUND, BERMUDA. The St . George^ Fancy Store." WM. HEHRY GBISET, Eiglish, fi§ich, MeimiiigrniaQ dsois, Perfumes, Brushes, Toys, Pictures, Stationery, Baskets, Cutlery, Confectionery, Garden Seeds, Medicines, Cigars, &c. — 1 BOOTS AND SHOES, & — ChUi0.» Glass and Woodware, &c., &c. Lamps. Books, Magazines, Periodicals on Hire. STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. Ill C H. ROBINSON, GENERAL House Furnishing Store 45 FRONT STREET, HAMILTON, BERMUDA. DEALER IN Tobacco, Segars, Glassware, Tinware, Furhitare, Boots and Shoes, Hc.ts, Sewing Machines, Stationery, Perfumery, And a, variety of o /her articles too numerous to mention^ but indispensable to every housekeeper. 178 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. Book and Periodical Library. TERMS MODERATE. DEPOSIT REQUIRED. Orders for Copper Plate and usual Job Printing. O 2 H < O QC O Artists' Materials, Art Pottery, China Ware* Ber- lin Wools, Novelties and HdUseKold pieporations. STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. TOURISTS WILL FIND AT THE / TOWER (The most centrally located Establishment,) Guide Books, Cheap Reading, Newspapers and Magazines by every Mail. STATIONERY. ^ ii Choice English and Amei'ican Paper, including ROYAL IRISH LINEN, ROYAL WOVE, CRANE'S SUPERFINES, QUADRILLE AND LAP TABLETS. MARINE AND FIELD GLASSES, SMOKED GLASSES, CAMP AND STEAMER CHAIRS, TRUNKS, VALISES, BASKETS, WRITING CASES. POSTAGE STAMPS, PAPER WRAPPERS, BEST MAILING FACILITIES. This is the Oldest and Largest Establishment dealing in medium priced Fancy Goods. Toys, Parlor and Out-door Games, Playing Cards, best Eur :»- pean and American makes ; Visiting Cards, Card Cases and a choice assortment of Pocketbooks and Leather Goods. Or'etgr^ taken for Copper Plate Pointing. 180 STARK'S ILLCSTRATi:!) liERATUDA GUJDIl. store opposite Koyal Mail Steamer's Office, WATER STREET, ST. GEORGE'S, BERMUDA, Dealer in General Dry Goods, Millinery, Ladies' and Childrens' Underclothing, Shell TTork, Palmetto ^"ork. Cedar Work, Station- ery, Military' Trimmings, Gold liaces. BERMUDA ARRO"WROOT, in various size packages. Dressmaking aud Millinery Department. Full assortment of Mme. Demorest's Reliable Patterns of all the new, tiseful and beautiful styles, in sizes, illustrated and described. Port- folio OF Fashions and What to ^VKAI{, 15 cents each, post free. Cata- logues free on application. Patterns post-free on receipt of price. '-=-—- 'friaY«-l£i.ec.Vfo'eo^t>iH THOMAS MI^ES, T>ea,ler in IVatural Ice. Ice supplied at all hours through the day. Orders left at the Ice House at Cardiff, or at the office of the subscriber, 8 BURNABY STREET. STARK'S ILLUSTliATED BERMUDA GUIDE. 181 W. T. JAMES, 41 & 42 Front Street, Hamilton, IMPORTER AND DEALER IN English and American GROCERIES, SiriPPEHS OF BERMUDA PRODUCE, 182 STJEK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. FABRICS OF THE FINEST QUALITY. ORMOND L. DICKINSON, wOjRK of the highest standard. queen street, hamilton, bermuda. GEO. SPURLING, General Commission Merchant, Auctioneer, Appraiser, and Livery Stable Proprietor, Market Square, St. George's, Bermuda. Horses and Carriages supplied at short notice. ^^(5IiOEE♦^50TEL,S Corner of York Street and Market Square, ST. GEORGE'S. BERMUDA. This Hotel is conducted on first-class principles, and superior accommodation is offered to Boarders and Transient Guests. R. P. ATKINS & CO., line, Spirit, | ^er and jjrom^ion mrchanfe, Purveyors to H. M. Army and Navy, London Office:-12 ST. MARY AXE, E. C. .^tAltk'S ILLVStRAfMD iiEJtMUDA GUIDE. 183 J. N. WAINWRIGHT & CO., Importers and Dealers in Medical Hall. EstalDlished in 1838. Drugs, Chemicals, Pharmaceutical Preparations, HAMILTON, BERMUDA. 184 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. B. E. DICKINSON & SON, DEALERS IN English | American Provisions, &c., &c. 27 & 28 FRONT STREET, English & American Tailor. DEALER IN " Bermuda Arro-w Root," TE^^, COFFEES, ^QG^l^^, E'PC, Water Street, St. George's, BERMUDA. Also, Sole Agent in St. George's, Bermuda, for Dr. O. Phelps Brown's STANDARD HEKBAX, REMEDIES, and " THE COMPLETE HERBALIST." A full supply of the above always on hand and orders promptly executed. Patronized by H. R. H. Princess Louise, Marchioness of Lome. iilfs Head iofal Lwerf Stalles, Near Victoria Park, HAMILTON, D. G LANE, PROPRIETOR, Contractor for Government Land Transport, and Colonial Daily Mails between Hamilton and St. George. Comfortable Double and Single CARRIAGES with well trained Horses and experienced Drivers can be supplied at the shortest notice, Day or Nighl};, to all parts of the Island. STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. 185 J. KENDRICK, IMPORTER OF ST. GEORGE'S, BERMUDA. HENRY T DYER Freight and Excursion Boats TO ALL PARTS OF THE ISLAND, — AND PROPRIETOR OF — DONKEY CARTS, "id. e. seo:^, DEALER m DRY GOODS, EIRTHEPARE, GimWlRE, Fancy Articles, &c., 40 FRONT STREET, Cor. Burnaby, BER MUDA. AND COMMISSION MERCHANT, 26 Front Street, HAMILTON, BERMUDA. 186 STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. Biitcler ai ArtiMal Ice liMm, nAMlLTOS, WMU. FISH, m- POULTRY, EQQS AMD ■VIQITABLIS. SHIPPING SUPPLIED at the SHORTEST NOTJCE. Ice Manufactory, — ST. JOHN'S HILL, SPANISH POINT. Apothecary's Hall, A general assortment of ©iieii©! CHEMICALS, Perf nmei-y and Fancy Toilet Ariicles. Physicians' Prescrip- lions carefully compounded. Patent Medicines, Pure Wines and Liquors for medicinal purposes. FHOTOGKAPHIC VIEWS OF THE ISLAND. J. B. HEYL, Bruggist and Pharmaceutist, 13 FRONT STREET & 1 QUEEN ST. STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. 187 TRO-TT &i. COX, AGENTS FOB WEST FRONT STREET. HAMILTON. CROWN BOTTLING COMPANY^ Manufacttirei'S of all kinds of AEB^TED WJ.TEBS, Double Soda Water, Belfast Ginger Ale, Lemonade, Sarsaparilla, Ginger Beer, Champagne Cider, &c., &c. im- PRICE LISTS ON APPLICATION. Particular care given to supplying Canteens and Military Messes. BURNABY STREET, HAMILTON, BERMUDA. Under the patronage of H. R. H. Princess Louise, Marchioness of Lome PRIVATE BOARD. LIVERY STABLES AND BATHING HOUSE ATTACHED. J0HH 1. M^STEIS. FAMILY GROCER, WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALER IN English and American Preserved Provisions. 3 West Front St., Hamilton, Bermuda. 188 STAMK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. AMERICAN HOUSE, Corner Queen and Church Streets, HAMILTON, BERMUDA. JEREMIAH HARNETT, - Proprietor. Comfortable Board by the Day, Week or Month. STAliK'S ILLUSTliATED BERMUDA GUIDE. 189 UNION LINE. BERMUDA AND BA LTIMORE. Steamships of this line are appointed to sail on or about the following dates : Bermuda to Baltimore. S.S. ''NUBIAN" April 19 I S.S. "ARAB" May 17 June 14 I July 12 August 9 I September 6 October 4 i NoTember 1 Noyember 29 ] December 27 Baltimore to Bermuda. S.S. "ARAB" April 6 May 28 July 23 September 17 November 12 January 7. 1885 S.S. "NUBIAN" April 30 June 25 August 20 October 15 December 10 RATES or PASSAGE. Saloon Fare • • £6 5s. od. Return Tickets, including Railway fare to and from New York, issued at £10 8s. 4d. Second Class £4 3S- 4^. For freight or passage, apply to S. S. INGHAM, Jr., Agent. Messrs.. SHtrMA€HER & CO., Passenger Agents, 5 South Gay Street, Baltimore. Mr. JOHXS. SCOTT, Passenger Ago . t. 51 Broadway, Xew York. 190 STAEK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. QUEBEC STEAMSHIP GO. ST. ^mWMSlf€S ^IHE. THE STEAMSHIP MIRAMICHI leaves Montreal Monday, 2ml July, and eveiy alternate Monday, FOR PICTOU, N. S., Calling: at Quebec, Father Point, Metis, Gaspe, Perce, Suninier> side and Charlottetown. Through Tickets issued to Halifax, N. S., St. John, N. B., Portland, Boston, New York, &c. Connect with Steamers and Railroads for all parts of the British Prov- inces and the United States, and at Halifax with Cromwell Line of Steamer* for Newfoundland and New York. Bermuda and West India Lines. MlirW CC nDllinnn with Magnificent passenger IlLfl OOl UnlNUuUp Accommodations, leaves New York for Bermuda evei^r alternate Thursday. SS. BERMUDA, SS. MURIEt, or SS. FliAMBOROUGH, leave New York for St. Kitts, Antigua, Dominica, Martinique, St. liUcia, Barbadoes and Trinidad every seventeen days. For further information, apply to QUEBEC STEAMSHIP CO., Quebec and New York. LEVE & ALDEN, Passenger Ag&nts, New York, Montkeal and Quebec. A. E. OUTERBRIDGE & CO., A^mta, 51 Broadway, NEW TonKi ARTHUR AHERN, Secretaiy, Qitebbc. STARK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. 191 Robinson & Stephenson^ Designers, Engravers, ELECTROTYPERS 91 Oliver St,,Boston,Mass,U.S.A, COMMERCIAL * FEINTING OF EYEBY BEBCmiFmQNj, BOOKS, BILLS OF FAEE, BALL WORK, PAMPHLETS, RAILROAD WORK, BILL HEADS, CIRCULARS, BUSINESS CARDS, SHOW CARDS, FLYERS, LETTER HEADS, LABELS, &C., &C. Kii^si^v^iai-ss ^Q©2?^K. i^e0:s©ri^t)le Wi^iozs. 192 STAIiK'S ILLUSTRATED BERMUDA GUIDE. How THE Illustrations in this Book Are Made, HE Sixteen Views in this work which are in effect Hke Photographic Prints are pro- iduced from Photographic Negatives with the finest of printing ink, thereby rendering them permanent. They are superior in detail, sharpness and bril- Hancy to Photographs yet having the same dehcacy of finish. This work is known by the name of PHOTO MECHANICAL PRINTING, and in large quantities can be produced much cheap- er than photographs. The other illustrations, including the maps, are produced by a method of Photo-Engraving known as the PHOTO-ELECTROTYPE PROCESS. These illustrations, which in effect are like wood engravings, are photographed from prints and pen and ink drawings. This process, unlike the photo mechanical printing method previously described, produces a plate at about one-half the cost of a wood engraving, that can be used with type on any printing press the same as a wood cut. For specimens of our work and for further infor- mation address : 63 Oliver Street, - Boston, Mass. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 015 816 378 x> ;^iHac? 0^ SEC SfEAMStf