65th CoNGEESs, 1 HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. | ^^^^^7y 3d Session. j I No. 932 . LAFAYETTE NATIONAL PARK, January 15, 1919. — ('ommitted to the ( ommittee of the Whole Hou.-^e on the state of the Union and ordered to be printed. Mr. Tillman, from the Committee on the Piibhc Lands, subrnitted the following REPORT. [To accompany S. 4957.] The Committee on the Public Lands, to which was referred the bill (8. 49.57) to establish the Lafayette National Park in the State of Maine, having had the same under consideration, begs leave to report it back to the House without amendment, with the unanimous recommendation that the bill do pass. ''^ The Sieur de Monts National Monument, which it is proposed in the accompanying bill to make a national park under the name of the Lafayette National Park, owes its origin to the gift of citizens desirous of securing to the public for its use and enjojmient forever a unic{uely beautiful tract of land upon our eastern seacoast, where its grand rock scenery culminates in a deeply divided range of granite mountains visible from 50 miles to sea and an historic landmark. Discovered by Champlaiii in 1604, the island which these moun- tains dominate and largely constitute, was the first land named and touched on by him in his exploration of our coast, and for more than a century remained the property of Frame as a portion of her ancient Provmce of Acadia. The site, in 1613, of the earhest French missionary settlement upon the continent and granted in 1688 by Louis XIV, King of Prance, to Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, the founder of Detroit and early governor of Louisiana, it passed on the English conciuest of Acadia mto the possession of Massachusetts, b}^ whom it was given — in reward for service rendered — to her last colonial governor, Sir Francis Bernard, who visited it in 1762 and kept a journal of his trip there, which is still extant." The National Monument, named after the founder of Acadia the Sieur de Monts, occupied when lirst established the eastern and loftier portion of the island range, with from .5,000 to 6,000 acres, of land in a continuous tract. Furtb.er shifts have since extended 2 LAFAYETTE NATIONAL PARK. it over the western mountains and ])roiight it down to meet the sea . nearly douhhng its area, now in the neighborhood of 10,000 acres. Descending, directly to the ocean front and extraordinarily bold in character, the mountains of the monument are unique in the broad ocean views they offer and in the supreme beauty of the mingled land and water scenery which they look down upon. Gorges, deeper in places than the ocean level, divide them, forming, together \vith ice-excavated basins to their north, a series of fresh-water lakes and one magnificent ocean fiord, the sole one on our coast outside Alaska. This tract, with its extraordinarily varied physical configuration and ocean-tempered climate, is rich in native flora, offering a con- genial habitat to plants of many species ; it contains the best examples of the native forest left along our northern shore; it is rich in bird life, lying directly m the course of the Atlantic coast migration route to the great summer breeding regions of the nortli: and it was formerly a favorite haunt of deer and moose and beaver, who need protection only to become again abundant in it. Trout thrive there plentifully in the lakes and streams, and it is alone among our na- tional park lands in the admirable opportunities it oft'ers for deep- sea fishing. While faced by the open ocean on its southern front, moreover island-sheltered waters surround it on all other sides and link it unbrokenly with Penobscot Bay, some 40 miles away, offering a unique opportunity for life upon the water. The island is divided from the mainland only by a narrow arm of sea, crossed by a modern steel and concrete bridge, which links its roads with those of the State and Federal system on the mainland. It lies but a day and a half's motor ride along the coast from Boston, and but a day from Portland. During the season following the monument's establishment, 7,000 motors entered it, by record, coming from many States; and not less than 50,000 people visited it during that and the following summer each, coming by motor, train, and boat. In point of numbers and of the wide range of States from which these visitors are drawn, it ranks among the first half dozen nation park areas of the country, as it does in the refreshment and inspiration that it gives to those who come, thanks to the ocean that surrounds it and its own scenic character. The crowning point of beauty on our eastern sliore and the only extensive tract upon it that will be freely open to the public in a few years' time, it will be always widely visited, drawing its visitors from an area possessing two-thirds of tlu! population of the United States and giving them alone among our national parks or monuments the cool refreshment of the ocean on a <;()ast accessible to multitudes, supremely beautiful in its own scenic field, and rich in old historical associations. 'I'Ik^sc old associations lend themselves, moreover, to a noble em- ployment of the mountains, looking so broadly out across the sea, I'/ roirnneriior-atc, as the Secretary of the Interior has planned, the j^iirl idike lliut, France has had in the early settlement of America utid (lie wiiming ol our national independence, and that which we ours^eivcH Inivc taken recently in rescuing France from an impending di«iiHl(T tliiil wonld have carried down with her in ruin the democracy and freedom of (he world. 'ri»« eel,! I i(. IIS hotween America and France have been close from I Im? \>\'.]j[\\\\\\\v:^. Her idealism profoundly influenced in its construc- 0, fit. J. MAh. .51 1919 LAFAYETTE NATIONAL PARK. 3 tive period the form of our democracy: without our de.mocracy, hers might have heen long delayed, or might not have endured. In this relation, as in the aid she rendered us in our time of early need, one name stands out preeminently, that of Lafayette, wliich has become not so much historical in a pcisoiud sense as a symbol of the tie between tlie nations. It is with this in mind, and for the puijjose of conmiemorating in a splendid nature monument, discover ed and once held by France, the generous devotion of our soldiers in the present war, that the Secretary of the Interior now recommends the estaldishment, under that name, of the Lafayette National Park. The following is an extract from a lette/ of tlie Hon. Franklin K. Lane, Secretary of the Interior, to the Hon. Swagar Sherley. March. 1918, with refevence to the Sieur de Monts National Monu- ment, the subject of the present bill: It i.< a true park area in the highest sen^^e, totally dilTereul from any other that we have and capable of giving untold refreshment to the great town and city popula- tions of our country to the eastward of the Mississippi. It is the only national park — using the word in its descriptive sense — that fronts upon the sea, and it repiesents at its culminating point one of the oldest and most important recreation areas upon •the continent — the New p]ngland coast. It is a tract of extraordinary variety and interest, a bold mountain chain com- pressed ^^^thin the limits of an island 15 miles across— though 70 or 80 in its ocean frontage. A dozen or more separate j)eaks, deeply divided by lakes and gorges and an ocean inlet, make u]) tliis chain. The most beautiful woods remaining on that coast — once famous for its timber — lie around the mountain bases. The lands constituting the monument have been for over fiO years the object of resort from all the great eastern cities, from southern ones extending to New Orleans. and central ones to h't. Louis. Now, over 50.000 people visit the monument each summer, making it third among the national park areas in the number of its visitors. Placed as it is in relation to the great eastern population centers, and equally accessible by boat and motor as by train, this number may readily be doubled within a few years' time by right development. The creation of this monument was not the result of (;hance, but of carefully thought out intention. No better way of extending into the crowded eastern regions of the country the immediate benefits of oiu- national park system could have been devised than tiiat presented by it. The following is an extract from a letter of the Hon. Theodore Koosevelt to the Hon. Swagar Sherley, A])ril, 1918, with reference to the Sieur de Monts National Monument: It is our one eastern national park and gives for the first time to the crowded eastern portion of the country the opportunity to share directly and immediately in the benehts of our national parksystem. Its striking ocean frontage makes it unlike every other ])ark, I have watched with keen interest the work that has led to the creation of this park. Under right development it \\iM give a healthy jjlayground to multitudes of hard-working men and women who need such a playground. Moreover, it con- stitutes a wild life sanctuary under national guardianship at a spot where such a sanctuary is greatly needed. The following is an extract from a letter of the Hon. Carl E. MiUi- ken, Governor of Maine, to the Hon. Swager Sherley, April. 1918, with reference to the Sieur de Monts Nation.al Monument : The State of Maine is warmly interested in the de^•elopment of the national i)ark upon its coast entitled the Sieur de Monts National Monument. This park which has been the gift of citizens to the National Go^-ernmeut. occupies the most lieautiful tract of land on the Atlantic coast and has exceptional historic interest. Readily accessible from every eastern section of the country, unicjue in landscape character and bordering on the sea. the resort to it and its value to the pub- lic as a recreative area coidd i-eadily l)e doiibled in a few years" time by right development. * * •- 4 LAFAYETTE NATIONAL PAEK. This is the one easteni representative of the national park system, and stands ah'eady third among the national park areas of the country- in the number of its visitors. The following is an extract from a statement on national park policy addressed by the Hon. Franklin K. Lane, Secretary of the Interior, to the Hon. Stephen T. Mather, director. National Park Service, May 18, 191 S, in which specific reference is made to the ter- ritory of the proposed La Fayette National Park upon Mount Desert Island as an example of what should ])e sought in the formation of new national parks : In studying new park projects, you should seek to find scenery of supreme and distinctive (quality or some natural feature so extraordinary or unique as to be of national interest and importance. - You should seek distinguished examples of typical forms of world architecture such, for instance, as the Grand <'anyon, as exemplifying the highest accomplishment of stream erosion, and the high, rugged portion of Jlount Desert Island as exemplifying the oldest rock forms in America and the luxuriance of deciduous forests. * * * ■ It is not necessary that a national park should have a large area. The element of size is of no importance as long as the park is susceptible of effective administration and control. Letter of the Hon. Franklin K. Lane, Secretary of the Interior, to the Hon. Scott Ferris, chairman Committee on the Public Lands, House* of Representatives, on H. R. 11935, ''A bill to establish the Mount Desert National Park in the State of Maine.'' The Secret.\ry ok the Interior, Washinfiion, May In. 19 is. My Dkar ilR. Kr.RKis: 1 have your reque.-^t of May G. 1918. for a report on H. K. nn.35,. ''A bill to establish the Mount Desert National Park in the State of Maine."' \Vhile this measure proposes to create a new member of the national park system. its effect, if enacted into law, would be to merely change the name of the Sieur de Monts National Monument and promote this area to the national park status, at the .-ame time adequately providing for its extension and development along well-delined lines. As this monument is already under the jurisdiction of this department, and immediately under the control of the National Park Service, by virtue of the act of August 25. 191G, the NationalPark Service act (39 Stat., 535 K the only important question invoh'ed in this legislation is whether the monument lands are worth>- of advancement to the national park class. I believe that the national park should be established for the following reasons: First: Mount Desert Island has important historic value. It is the place where * 'hamplain first landed bn this coast, and the French had a station here years before the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers. Second: Scenically its impressive headlands give Mount Desert the distinction of combining sea and mountain. These headlands are by far the loftiest of our Atlantic coast. Their high, rounded summits, often craggy, and their splendid granite shelves form a background for a rugged shore line and an island-dotted harbor which is one of the finest that even the Maine coast can present. Back of the shore is a mountain and lake wilderness which is typical in a remarkable degree of the range of Appalachian scenery. ^ Third : From the point of \dew of conservation the value of the proposed park can hardly be overestimated. The forests are largely primeval. Oaks, beeches, birches, maples, ashes, poplars, and man;,' other deciduous trees of our eastern ranges, here found in full luxuriance, mingle with groves of pine and giant hemlock. The typical shrubs of northeastern .Vmerica are in equal abundance. Wild flowers abound. There are few spots, if any, which can combine the variety and luxuriance of the eastern forests in such small compass. The rocks also have their distinction. This was the first part of the continent to emerge from the prehistoric sea. Archcan granites in original exposure such as these, though common in eastern Canada, are rare in the United States. Worn by the ice sheets of the glacial period, eroded by the frosts and rains of the ages, tlitdr bases carved by the sea, their surfaces painted by the mosses and lichens of to-day, they are exhibits of scientific interest as v,-ell as beantv. LAFAYETTE NATIONAL PAEK. 5 StiM another distinction is Mount Desert's wealth of bird life. All of the conditions for a bird sanctuary in the East seem to be here fulfilled. Once Mount Desert was the home of many deer, some of which are now returning from the mainland. Moose haiunt it still occasionally. Once its streams abounded in beaver, and will again after a ^iew of these animals are planted in its protected valleys. Fourth: From a recreational standpoint, the Mount Desert Park would be capable of giving pleasure in the summer months to hundreds of thousands of people living east of the Mississippi River. Last year it was visited by more than 50,000 individuals. The island is accessible by automobile, railroad, and boat, and is only a relatively few hours distant from many large eastern cities. Developed as a national park in the interests of all the people, this reservation will become one of the greatest of our public assets. The Sieiu' de Monts National Monument was established by proclamation of the President, July 8, 1916, under the act of June 8, 1906, "An act for the preservation of American antiquities." (34 Stat., 225). A copy of this pi-oclamation is inclosed. The area of the monument is approximately 5,000 acres. All of this land was secured by purchase, or through donation, by the Hancock County trustees of public reserva- tions, was conveyed by this corporation to the United States and accepted by me under the authority of the monuments act. Since the establishment of the reservation, addi- tional tracts of land to the extent of 5,000 acres have been secured and tendered to the Government. 1 have indicated that I -svill accept these lands as soon as the deeds and other instruments of title have been examined and found satisfactory in all respects. The reservation, therefore, may be regarded as ha\ing a total area of approximately 10,000 acres. Ultimately this Tvdll be extended to 20,000 acres through the continued efforts of the public-spirited gentlemen who are devoting theii- time and personal funds to the development of this park enterprise. I haA-e no criticism to make of the form of the pending bill, and I hope that the com- mittee may give it early and favorable consideration. Cordially, yours, Franklin K, Lane, Secretary. Hon. Scott Ferris, Chairman Committee on the Public Lands, House of Representatives. Attached is a copy of the report of the Secretary of the Interior to the Senate Committee on Public Lands on this measure. It is as follows: Department of the Interior, Washington, October 2, 1918. My Dear Si^nator: I have your reciuest of September 26 for report upon Senate bill 4957, the purpose of whicfi is to establish the Lafayette National Park in the State of Maine. This bill is in all respects except that of name, identical with a bill which has heretofore passed the Senate, during the present session, and I attach a copv of mv report upon that bill. The name" of Lafavette is substituted for that of Mount Desert, the name proposed by the former l)ill, and I consider it singularly appropriate that the name of Lafayette should be commf^morated liv these splendid mountains facing on the sea on what was once a corner of old France, and with it the early friendship of the two nations which are so closely allied in the present war. Already, this land, as a portion of old French Acadia," is associated with some of the most famous names of France: Henry of Navarre, De Monts, Champlain, Cadillac, and others. Lafayette's name is dear to the American people, and it will be a gracious act toward France to commemorate his name by giving it to this new national park. Cordiallv, vours, Franklin K. Lane. Hon. Henry L. My'ers, Chairman Committee on Public Lands, United States Senate. o LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS ■III JESS 013 984 723 4