WORKS OF MRS GAUGAIN, LATELY PUBLISHED. ACCOMPANIMENT to Seconp Votume; or a Boox or Prints illustrating all Open Stitches described in Vol. II. ; with a number of New and Beautiful Specim of Knitting. Second Thousand, price 2s. 6d, VOL. f, LADY’S ASSISTANT in Kyrrrine, Nerine, and Crocner Worx. Seventh Thousc price 5s, 6d, The Lavy’ # Asst Ista Via LZ ae KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROCHET wore: WITH AN APPENDIX CONTATNING DIRECTIONS AND PEMASBES FOR WORKING iz Enrdretderp or orgies or! i, Ha nized Cut ork, Catting, Kc. ILLUSTRATED BY UPWARDS OF FORTY COLOURED PATTERNS, BY MRS GAUGAIN. Vou. Il. THIRD EDITION, PUBLISHED BY I. J. GAUGAIN, FOREIGN AND BRITISH DEPOT OF BERLIN PATTERNS, AND MATERIATS FOR LADIES’ FANCY WORKS, 63 GEORGE STREET, EDINBURGH ; AND ACKERMANN AND CO. STRAND, LONDON, 1844. Many Ladies having found great difficulty in procuring the proper Wool for the Fine Shetland Shawl, page 105; the Alpine Knit Scarf, page 331; the Barege Fichu, page 226; the Square Shawl with Shaded Border, page 369; also for the Triangular Shawl, page 370, &c, &c.; Mrs Gaueain begs to intimate that she can forward the Wool to any Post Town in Great Britain. Through the medium of the post, Material for the largest piece of Knitting mentioned above, may be sent, postage included, for Gs. 8d.; all other Materials may be forwarded, in the same way, at an extra charge of 2d. postage on every ounce. *s a Fy > x sh. Pelisse As receipt 6. ds receépt 17. ds receipt 16. Hib aa bes siechisibbad i, Lidssaee LeeLee eat abr sapseeer rrpeepens s Receipt 135 ekdece tees or any other purpose. SOPEEEEEREEPeseazegs an da, eotane, Wecbe, Frs0#a Mbeb, Fates Oe. unnadaeSSEESoSeonannlaaeeeeee As paye 4 2 Che Wight Monourable Lavy Menrietta sSerguason. 2) (b adam, St affords me infinite pleasure to Dedicate to your Badyship the yout patronage. following, Cittle Work, which I fondly, hope muy be found worthy of Oth. the deefrest respect and gratitude for the muy favors whieh S fave vecewed Prom your Badyshipp and Family, S beg to subscribe myself, "fowe Bady shu ps Ollouch obliged and faithful Gewant, C (A) K youve ae ANAL: PREFACE. From the liberal patronage and very flattering reception which my former Work on Kyirtine, Nerrinc, anp Crocuzt Worx digs met with, and at the urgent request of many ladies to undertake another similar volume, I have been indusad to present my subscribers and the public with a Second Series, which I trust, if not more useful, will be found in no respect inferior to the First. The Receipts given in this Volume are all entirely new, and have been the subject of long and anxious toil and intricate calculation; but however laborious the execution of the Work has been, I trust the practical use of the book will give both satisfaction and pleasure, and that it will not only be found a book of fashionable amusement to the higher ranks of society, but also a repertory of useful Receipts to the more humble. It gives me much pleasure to learn from various quarters that my first effort has been the means of affording a genteel and easy source of livelihood to many well-disposed and industrious females, both in the humbler and middle ranks of life; and at no period could a work of this kind be more desirable than at present. PREFACE. Some ladies imagine it to be absolutely necessary they should know every term used in this book before they can work a Receipt ; but this is not the case,—they have only to refer to those terms that are used in the one they intend to work, which can be done in a minute, by merely reading over the explanation in the Index. It has been my anxious desire, in composing the directions for working the different Receipts, to use plain and intelligible language, to avoid ambiguity, and, even at the risk of much repetition, to impress distinctly the way in which the examples are to be executed. How far I have been able to succeed in this, those who have recourse to the Work will be best able to judge. I trust that the Work may prove as useful as I have anticipated, and that my labours may be crowned with that reward so much to be prized, the satisfaction of having been useful. 63 Groner Srreet, Epineurcu, Nov. 1842. CONTENTS. INDEX oF SIGNS USED IN KNITTING, Bag, Shaded Knit, Bag, Knit, of Purse Cord, Bag, Handsome Knit, Bag, Round, with Clasp, Bag, Tambour Diced, in Diamonds of Blue and Black, Bag, Handsome Crochet, Bag, Handsome Crochet, Bag, Square Crochet, Bag, Knit, Very Novel, Bag, Knit, in Shades, F Bag, Simple and Elegant Knit, Beading, or Insertion, Narrow Crochet, Page 15 121 123 126 143 219 293 299 300 304 350 372 385 Blanket, Pattern for Baby’s Crochet, or a Coverlet for a Carriage, a Wrapper for an Invalid, a Tippis de Pied, or Table Cover, Blanket, Knit, for a Baby, Boot, German Knit, for a Baby, Boot, Crochet Overall, Boot, Baby’s Single Crochet Stitch, Border for Counterpane, Z Border for Baby’s Cap, &c. Knit Lace Brioche Round Cushion, or Footstool, Cap, Knit, for Invalids, or for Wearing after Bathing, Cap, Knit, for Wearing under eis Hinge Page Cap, Baby’s Knit Lace, with Pretty and Novel Crown, 311 Ditto ditto 317 341 Cap, Opera or Travelling, for a Lady, Cap, Crochet Polish, for a Child, or for a Lady’s Riding Cap, or Gentleman’s Travelling Cap, “ A 347 Cap, Round Crochet, adapted for the same purposes as the Polish Cap, worked in Double Crochet Stitch, 353 Comfort for a Lady or Gentleman, 125 Counterpane, Square for a, &c. 96 Crochet Carriage Foot-Basket, or Chan- celiere, S 2 285 Cushion, Square Knit Shaded, 345 Cuff, Knit, for wearing above the Gown Sleeve, . 204 Cuff, Russian, in Crochet, 260 307 Cuff, Net, in Berlin Wool and Silk, CONTENTS. D’Oyley, Round, - D’Oyleys, Twenty New Patterns for, Edging, Knit, for Petticoats, Cuffs, &c. Edging, Vandyke, for Petticoats, Cuffs, &c. Edging for Trimming Tidy, A Edging, Crochet, for Collars, Cuffs, Caps, Petticoats, Tidies, Toilet Covers, &e. Edging, Crochet, for Body of Petticoats, Edging, Crochet, for fine Handkerchiefs, Cuffs, Collars, &c. Fringe for Trimming D’Oyleys,; Fringe, Knotted, for Shawls, &c. &c. Fringe, Pretty Knit, for Bed-Covers, Shawls, &c. " . ‘ Fringe, Pretty and Simple, for D’Oyleys, Shawls, Tidies, Bed-Covers, &c. Fichu, Shaded, of Triangular Shape, Fichu, Beautiful Barege Triangular Knit, for the Neck, CONTENTS. 9 Page | Page Gaiter, Knit Overall, for a Child about Four | Pin-Cushion, Toilet, ‘ é 144 Years old, : : 358 | Purse, Short, : ; : 52 Gaiter, Crochet Overall, for Children, 891 | Purse, Long, . - 4 54 Hassock, Tamboured Round, . 7 222 | Purse, Long, China Ribbon, : * 56 Hood for a Baby, ‘ 5 ; 89 Purse, Rich Long Knit, . 85 Insertion, Knit Lace, Open Diamond, 33 | Purse, Very Strong and Beautiful ies, Knit, 87 Mitten, Crochet, in Wool, > , 317 Purse, Strong Open Knit Long, 5 120 Mitten, Long Crochet, for Infants, F 320 Purse, Simple and Strong Stitch for, with Mitten, Out-Door do. for Children, . 32 Beads inserted, . P é 121 Muff, Warm Knit, : : : 206 Purse, Knit, . ‘ 3 e 124 Muff, Crochet, ; F 249 | Purse, Pretty Short . . : 129 Muff, Crochet, in Imitation of Miniver aan Purse, Round, . 143 or Court Ermine, 258 | Purse, Long Net, ied Double Netting, 252 Neckerchief, Small Net, . 253 Purse, Handsome Short Knit . ‘i 275 Nightcap, Gentleman’s, Knit in Shades, 392 | Purse, Beautiful and Rich Crochet Long, 276 Do. do. Useful Crochet, 393 Purse, Crochet Long, in Gold Cord and Overall Pelisse for a Child, Knit Polish, 825 Twist, ‘ Pi 282 Pen Wiper, r s r 144 | Purse, Beautiful Long Net, with Gold Beads, 290 Petticoat, Warm Knit, for a Lady, . 309 Ditto ditto ditto 292 10 CONTENTS. Page Purse, Diced Net, in Twist and Beads, 295 Purse, Long Crochet, with Steel Beads, 301 Ditto with or without Gold Beads, 303 Purse, Lancer’s, é ; ~ 849 Scarf, Alpine Knit, - é s 831 Scarf, Knit Open Lace with Shaded Ends, in a Wave Pattern, ; 3 366 Scarf, Simple and Pretty Black Net, . 371 Scollop Knitting, in Imitation of Brussels Lace, F . F ¥ 137 Shawl, Handsome Shetland Square Knit, 105 Shawl, Handsome Triangular Knit, ; 287 Shawl, Light and Elegant Square Net Dress, 365 Shawl, Directions for a Square Knit, with Shaded Border, - ‘ 2 369 Shawl, Triangular with Shaded Border, 70 Shawl, Directions for Washing @ Knit Woollen, j 7 ~ 118 Page Shoe, Beautiful Little German Knit, 60 Shoe, Little Knit, for a Baby, ° 262 Shoe, German Crochet Pattern for, i 283 Shoe, Parisian Knit, with Open Stocking in white, and Shoe in colour, ; 212 Spencer, Knit, for a Young Child of about a Year old, or more, . : 269 Stocking, Crochet, and Coloured Shoe for Child, 391 Table Cover worked in Cross Stitch on Coarse Canvas, .- é 2 Table Cover, Crochet Turkish Pattern, 245 Tidy, or Fish Covering, Very Useful 255 Tidy Patterns, in Rows of Diamonds of Eyelet Holes, and Open Stitch alter- nately, - ; : - 375 Tidy or Toilet Cover, Leaf Pattern, 378 Under-Dress for a Child, Knit, CONTENTS. 11 Oren Stitcnes For Srocxines, Caps, CuFFs, | Page Suawts, ScaRFs, Tipres, CHILDREN’S SHOES, Long Lozenge Pattern, surrounded by Covertets, Doyteys, &c, &c. Open Work, 167 Pace Maltese Cross, Open Pattern, for 4 Wires, 207 Beautiful Open Stitch, = : 172 Mignionette, : 156 Diamond of Plain Work, surrounded bya Narrow Stripe of Slanting Holes, 172 Wave of Open Work, . ‘ 164 Open Diamond of Close Work, surrounded Diced Pattern, ; . Z 150 with a Row of Holes, running in Double Rose Leaf, useful for Shawls, a Wave Pattern, . : 41 Scarfs, Purses, &c. for 2 Wires, 195 Open Pattern, 148 Feather, $ : 163 Open Stitch for Four " Wires—Sort of Feather or Leaf, abefil for Stockings, Small Open Leaf, ‘ A 46 Purses, Cuffs, &c. : ; 144 Open Stitch, : 161 Do. do. do. . 145 Open Stitch, ooetisihal like Spider Net, 162 Kind of Feather, or Shell, ; : 148 Open Stitch, with a Half Twist running Kind of Round Spider Net, : 169 up the side, - 169 Knit Open Swiss Pattern, for Stockings, Open Wreath and Row of —— of Cuffs, Caps, &c. ; ‘ 354 five Holes running up the W ork, 176 Little Open Leaf, Slanting Stripe, . 157 Open Stitch for Four Wires, ; 380 Oval-shaped Lozenge Pattern, for 2 Wires, Pretty Open Stitch, Pretty Stitch for Four Wires, Pretty Simple Stitch in Slanting Stripe, Pretty sort of Lyre Pattern, . Pretty Sort of Shell, with Open Hem up the side, for 2 Wires, Round Spider Net, for 2 Wires, Simple Little Stitch, Simple Little Stitch, for — &e. Simple Feather, < Slanting Open Pattern, Slanting Open Stitch, Slanting Stripe, Small Pattern Stripe, ; Small Pattern Diamond of pare Holes, Small Stitch for Four Wires, Sort of Feather, m ‘ CONTENTS Page Page 195 Sort of Feather, with Open Stripe between, 157 45 Spider Net, for 2 or 4 Wires, “ 211 46 Straight Shell Pattern, with an Open 147 Hem between, . ; 164 149 Stripe of Spider Net, and Open Stitch on each side, 153 198 Strong Little Open Stitch, for Pare 170 197 Triangular Stitch, 50 146 Twisted Pattern, with a Row of Goan 147 Stitch between, 17k 155 Vandyke of Three Holes, 159 150 Vandyke of Two Holes, ‘ 160 154 Vandyke of Spider Net, with a Row of 155 Open Holes on each side, 173 158 Very Beautiful Stitch, 47 158 Very Pretty Pattern, 6 151 51 Very Pretty Pattern, closer than the former, ib. 155 Very Pretty Pattern, 152 CONTENTS. 13 : Page | Page Wave Running across, (very pretty for Wave, not running up, but along the Work, a Purse, ) = 5 i 171 | for 4 Wires, ‘ 3 ‘ 208 | Ditto ditto broader, 210 APPENDIX, CONTAINING DIRECTIONS AND REMARKS FOR WORKING IN EMBROIDERY OR WORSTED WORK, RAISED CUT WORK, TATTING, NETTING, KNITTING, CROCHET WORK, &c. &C. Page | Page Work Frame for Tapestry, Embroidery, &c. 397 | Guide in choosing Canvas for working Petit- imserting the Canvas in the Frame, - 398 | Point or Tent Stitch, . : 403 Framing Cloth and Canvas together, . 399 | Guide in choosing Canyas for working Cross Stretching Leather for Embroidery, . 401 | Stitch, : “ : ib. Working a small piece of Embroidery on a | Working of Berlin Patterns, 404 large piece of material, - ib. | Mode of working Raised Work fin a Grounding a piece of Work in Cross Stitch, ib. Berlin Pattern, : - 405 Grounding in Petit-Point, ; 402 | French or Parisian Mode, do. ‘ 408 Grounding on the Hand in Cros» Stitch, ib. | Another Mode, do, Fs 409 14 CONTENTS. Page Tarrinc—Common Edging, 411 | Bead Stitch, : Star Tatting, 412 | Netting with Shade Silk Tatting Open Stitch, Scollop Bobbin Trim- | Rewanae on KNITTING, ming, for the Edging of Petticoats, &c. 413 | eeabsy French Bobbin Loom, used for Hair Chain, and Direction for Making Chain, Directions for guiding the proper sizes of Silks and Meshes used for Purses in Net 414 Work, 415 Remarks ON NETTING; 416 To Make a Stitch in Netting, : ib. To Take-in or Diminish, - Z ib. REMARKS ON CROCHET, Edge Stitch, To carry on a Thread or Crochet Stitch, Neatest way of Joining the Thread, To Make a Stitch, Let out, or Increase, Take in, Reduce, or Diminish, Bead Stitch, - Bead Stitch in the Right Side of Work, or Tambour Stitch, Threads in Double Page 416 Al7 418 419 420 INDEX OF SIGNS. 15 INDEX OF SIGNS USED IN THE RECEIPTS. A, take in three loops into one, by slipping the first loop off backwards, without knitting; knit the second and third loops together, then lift the first over the taken- in loop. Ar, take in three loops into one, (laying reversed to the take-in three,) by knitting the first two off from the back part of loops; slip it on to the left wire, and with the third loop, which is the next to it on the left wire, lift it over the loop that was taken in, then slip the taken-in loop on to the right wire again. y, take in back stitch of three, by slipping off backwards without working the first, pearl the second and third loops together ; lift over the first slipped one over the taken-in loop. 16 INDEX OF SIGNS, yr, take in back stitch of three, (laying reversed to the take-in back stitch of three, ) by pearling the two first loops together, slip it on to the left wire, and with the third loop, which is the next to it on the left wire ; lift it over the loop that was taken in, then slip the taken-in Joop on to the right wire again. B, a back, ribbed, seam, or pearl stitch, by knitting it off backwards with thread in front of pin; all back or pearled stitches must be done so, (having thread in front before commencing the stitch.) Bm, make a back stitch like any other; do not take it off the left pin, but work another from back part of stitch, so as to make another stitch. B6, six back stitches ; all figures affixed to the letters are the numbers of stitches to be worked. F’, bring the thread forward, by passing it under the right wire to the front. I, pass the thread to the back, by passing it under the right hand wire. M, make a stitch, by working another stitch from the back part of the loop last knit, before you take it off the left wire. INDEX OF SIGNS. 17 O, make a stitch, by bringing the thread to the front, (by passing it under the right wire, to the front.*) On, make a back or pearled stitch, by easting the thread quite round the wire. 02, bring forward the thread to the front, and again round the wire to the front. P, a plain stitch or loop. Ps, a bead stitch. P2, or P4, two, or four plain stitches or loops, as the figures may be. Pr, knit one from back part of loop. S, slip stitch, take off a stitch without working, as if you were going to work a back stitch. Sp, slip back stitch, having thread in front; all back stitches have the thread in front. Sr, a slip stitch, taking over the two last worked. Sa, slip a stitch, having wool in front, then pass the wool to back, under left pin. * Throughout this volume, when O occurs on a back or pearl row, it must be worked as Ox. These rows will be known by the letters B, ,, y, &e- VOL, U. R INDEX OF SIGNS. S2, slip two stitches off without working. T, take in (or narrow) stitch, by knitting two loops together. Tr take in, reversed, by knitting two loops together from back part of loops, which throws the taken-in stitch the reverse way of the plain take-in. Ti, Take in, by inserting the wire as if you were going to pearl the first loop, and catch in the other as if you were knitting a plain one; knit them both off to- gether. Ts, take in, by slipping the first loop; knit the next; slip the first over the knit one. q, take in back stitch, by pearling two together, haying the thread in front. qt, take in, back stitch reversed, by pearling first stitch, and slipping it on to the left wire ; then slip the next to it (on the left wire) over it; lift back the stitch that was pearled on to the right wire again. INDEX OF SIGNS. 19 iT, for explanation, see foot note page 42. Tp, for explanation, see foot note page 123. L, let off half of the double loop altogether ; you will still have the other half on the left pin; which knit together with the next stitch. L4, for explanation, see foot note page 155, A row signifies a row from one end of pin to the other. A round is a row quite round, when the work is done on more wires than two. A plain row, a row all plain stitches. Back, or pearl row, a row worked exactly contrary to the plain row. Ribbed row, a row worked alternately a few stitches plain and a few back or pearl stitches. A front row, is worked with the thread behind. A back row, with the thread in front. Observe, when a back stitch or stitches occur on a front row, you must always 20 INDEX OF SIGNS. bring the thread forward in the front; when the back stitch or stitches are finished ; pass the thread back to its place. The same when a plain stitch occurs on a back row; pass the thread to the back, and work; then bring it forward to its place. Bring forward, bring the thread in front, so as to make an open stitch. Cast off, by knitting the two first stitches, slip the first stitch over the second ; knit a third, and slip the second over the third one ; continue in this way till the whole is cast off. e<> Observe, that in all the following receipts where the pattern is marked « repeat,” the edge stitches are never repeated. RE@GEIPTS KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROCHET WORK. I._KNIT CAPS FOR INVALIDS, OR FOR WEARING AFTER BATHING. Work with two ivory pins, No. 6. This is worked with four plies fleeey wool, either white or coloured, one skein is required. The Cap is worked in stocking-stitch, with a row of holes round the crown, which is of a sort of horse-shoe shape ; there are three rows of holes running across the front, which serve for casers to draw it with, if wished; after the front is finished, 22 THE LADY S$ WORK BOOK. the neck stitches are picked up, and a row worked, then a row of holes for a caser, to correspond with the others on the front. If the cap has been worked in white colour, plaited worsted for strings, drawn to fit the head, look very well; some prefer ribbon. Working Receipt.—Cast on 24 stitches on one pin. Ist Row, S edge stitch, pearl or back. 2nd “ Sb edge stitch, plain. 3rd “ § edge stitch, pearl or back. 4th “ Sb edge stitch, plain. Repeat in like manner as the above till the 21st, which is a back row. 22nd Row, S edge stitch, P, T, P16, Tr, P2. 23rd “ Sb edge stitch, pearl or back. 24th “ S_ edge stitch, plain. 25th <* Sb edge stitch, pearl or back. 26th “ S edge stitch, P, T, P14, Tr, P2. 27th “ Sb edge stitch, pearl or back. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 23 28th Row, S edge stitch, plain. 29th “ Sb edge stitch, pearl or back. 30th “ S edge stitch, P, T, P12, Tr, P2. 3lst ‘ Sb edge stitch, pearl or back. 32nd “ S edge stitch, plain. 33rd “ Sb edge stitch, pearl or back. 34th “ S edge stitch, P, O, T, O, T, 0, T, O, T,O,T, 0, T, O, T,0, T; this brings you to the end of the crown; do not break off your thread, but pick up the side loops that are on the left side of the crown with your other pin; there should be 17 side loops, the last of these is one of the original cast-on stitches; proceed as follows, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, Ont, Oe RP: 35th Row, Sb edge stitch, B32, O, 7; this brings you to the end of pin, then pick up the right side loops of the crown as you did the left ones, and 0; 7,0; L 9, 19, 1,9, I 9% £9 19 w B. 36th Row, S_ edge stitch, plain. 24 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 37th Row, Sb edge stitch, B4, *M, B4, M, B4, M, B4, M; this brings you to the top of the left side of the crown, then B18, which brings you to the right side of crown, then M, B4, M, B4, M, B4, M, B4, B, edge stitch. 38th “ S_ edge stitch, plain. 39th “ Sb edge stitch, pearl or back. 40th “ S_ edge stitch, plain. 41st “ Sb edge stitch, pearl or back, 424 “ § edge stitch, plain. 43d <‘ Sb edge stitch, pearl or back. 44th “ § edge stitch, plain. 45th ‘“ Sb edge stitch, pearl or back. 46th “ S_ edge stitch, plain. 47th “ Sb edge stitch, pearl or back. * This made stitch is done after the four stitches are worked, by lifting on to the left pin the top of the loop directly under the last stitch worked, then knit it ; when the M comes before the four stitches, you must knit it before. THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 25 48th Row, S, P2, edge stitch, O, T, repeat O, T, till you have only one loop knitted 8 I J ) I 49th 50th 51st plain. Sb edge stitch, pearl or back. S edge stitch, plain. Sb B3, M, pearl the remainder of the row all but 4 stitches, which work as before M, B4. S edge stitch, plain. Sb edge stitch, B4, M, pearl all the remainder of the row all but 5 stitches, work them as before M, B5. S edge stitch, plain. Sb edge stitch, as 51st row. S edge stitch, plain. Sb edge stitch, same as 53d row. S, P2, edge stitch, O, T, repeat O, T, until you have only 2 stitches; at the end of row; knit them off plain. 26 THE LADY'S WORK OOK. 59th Row Sb edge stitch, back row. 60th 61st 62d 63d 64th 65th 66th 67th 68th 69th 70th “cc ce oe Sedge stitch, plain. Sb edge stitch, as 51st row S edge stitch, plain. Sb edge stitch, as 53d row. S edge stitch, plain. Sb edge stitch, as 51st row. Sedge stitch, plain. Sb edge stitch, back row. S edge stitch, P3, O, T, repeat from O, T'; until you have only 2 or 3 stitches at the end, knit them off plain. Sb edge stitch, back row. This is the cast off row, which finishes the front. Then, without break- ing off the thread, pick up the stitches all round the neck part, and work it plain, until you come to the back of the crown, which are the THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 27 original cast-on stitches ; work them as follows :—P4, T, A, A, A, A, T, P4, then the other side of the neck part plain ; this finishes the first row of neck part. 2d Row, Sb edge stitch, O, T, to end of row, P, edge stitch. 3d “ S_ edge stitch, plain. 4th “ Cast off. IL—VERY PRETTY KNIT CAP FOR WEARING UNDER THE BONNET. This cap is merely a forehead and back, without a crown; it is worked in Berlin wool, of two colours, say white and pink, or any other that is preferred ; it is composed of stripes of colour and white alternately, running along the front. The cap is finished with ribbon to draw through the caser at top of cap, which is tied in front of the cap, and another at the neck part, tying at the back. The ribbon that is drawn in through the front caser is usually double the width of the other, so that the strings that tie under the chin may be about 1: inch wide. Before putting the ribbon through the front caser, double the ribbon, as when in it must appear as if it were the 28 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. game breadth of the other ; it is fastened to fit the width of forehead ; eave sufficient ribbon at each side to tie under the chin. You require 4 small hanks of pink, and 4 small hanks of white, an pins, No. 9. d 2 ivory Vith Pink. Cast on 94 stitches on one pin. Ist Row, S edge stitch, plain. Qnd “. Sedge stitch, plain. With White. 3rd“ S edge stitch, plain row. 4th “ Quite a plain row.—Observe this row is worked plain, but instead of put- ting the thread once round the pin, put it twice round, by this means it makes the stitch look twice as deep. bth « 'T, O2, repeat, edge stitch T.—In knitting the two stitches together to form the T, observe the two loops you knit are those loops that ap- 6th 7th 8th 9th 10th THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 29 pear to be the first and third on the pin, but by looking, you will per- ceive they are only two radical stitches ; the loop round the pin follow- ing those belong also to the stitch, which is pulled off the pin when the T is worked. All the Ts in this row are worked in this way. Row, Cast off 6 stitches at beginning of the row ; the remainder of row plain.— In this plain row, you will perceive you have alternately a short and a long stitch ; the first stitch knit ; the second stitch has two loops round the pin ; work the first loop, and then pull off the second; all the row is worked in this way as the first and second stitches just described. “ Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the row, then tie on the pink wool, and knit the rest of the row plain. « § edge stitch, plain. With White. « § edge stitch, plain. edge stitch, plain. s ba TR 30 THE LADY $8 WORK BOOK. 11th Row, *S, T, P, edge, —T, O, T, O, P2, repeat,— edge P2, T, P. 12th “ S edge stitch, plain. 1th -“ S, T, edge, —T, O, T, O, P2, repeat,— edge P, T, P. 14th “ S edge stitch, plain. With Pink. 15th “ S, P, T, T, O, P2, edge—T, O, T, O, P2, repeat,— edge T, P. 16th “ S edge stitch, plain. 17th “ §,T,T,O,P2,edge, —T, O, T, O, P2, repeat,— edge T. 18th “ S edge stitch, plain. With White. 19th “ S, T, P3, edge —T, 0, T, O, P2, repeat,—edge T, O, T, O, T, P 20th “ S plain. Qist “ SS, T, P2, edge, —T, O, T, O, P2, repeat,— _— edge T, O, T, P2. 22nd “ S edge stitch, plain. * In working this or any other receipt, the edge stitches never occur but at the beginning and end of the row. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 31 23rd Row, S, T, P, edge, —T, 0, T, O, P2, repeat,— edge T, O, T, P 24th “ § edge stitch, plain. 25th =< 6S, T, edge —T, O, T, O, P2, repeat,— edge P, T, P 26th “ S edge stitch, plain. ith Pink. 27th “ §,T,P,T,O, P2, edge—T, O, T, O, P2, repeat,— edge P, T. 28th “ S edge stitch, plain. 29th “ S$, T, T, O, P2, edge, —-T, O, T, O, P2, repeat,— edge T. 30th “ S edge stitch, plain. With White. 31st “ S, P5, edge stitch, —T, O, T, O, P2, repeat,— edge T, O, T, O, PS. 32nd “ S edge stitch, plain. 88rd “ 8S, P5, edge, —T, O, T, O, P2, repeat, — edge, P7. 34th “ S edge stitch, plain. 35th “ S, P5, edge stitch, —T, O, T, O, P2, repeat,— edge, P7 Cast on 24 extra stitches for the neck part of the cap. Di) SP 37th 38th 39th 40th Alst ce “¢ THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 36th Row, Quite a plain row. With Pink. Quite a plain row. Quite a plain row. With White. Per pet, Peewee, JF; P19, T, P27, P2, T; P2, T, the re- mainder of the row plain. Plain row.—Observe this row is worked plain, but instead of putting the thread once round the pin, put it twice round, by this means it makes the stitch look twice as deep. T, 02, repeat to end of row.—In knitting the two stitches, together to form the T, observe the two loops you knit are those loops that appear to be the first and third on the pin, but by looking, you will perceive they are only two radical stitches; the loop round the pin following those belong also to the stitch, which is pulled off the pin when the T is worked. All the Ts in this row are worked in this way ‘ THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 33 42nd Row, Quite a plain row.—In this plain row, you will perceive you have altern- ately a short and a long stitch ; the first stitch knit ; the second stitch has two loops round the pin; work the first loop, and then pull off the second. All the row is worked in this way, as the first and second stitches just described. With Pink. 43rd“ Quite a plain row. 44th “ Quite a plain row. 45th “ Cast-offrow. This finishes the front part; then join the narrow part of the neck piece to the other side of the cap, to form the round; then pick up all the stitches round the back part of cap, with the exception of the 6 cast-off stitches at each side, so as to make a caser to correspond with the one along the front. When you have picked up your loops, tie the white wool on the right side of the cap, otherwise the pink wool will not come in properly. VOL. Il. c n 34 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. NECK CASER RECEIPT oF cap.— With White. 1st Row, Plain—Then at the end of this row pick up on the left hand pin the innermost stitch of the 6 cast-off stitches, (it being the stitch next to the stitch that was last worked,) and work it. 2nd Row, As 4th or 40th row of forehead receipt.—Then at the end of this row pick up on the left hand pin, for the other side, the innermost stitch of the 6 cast-off stitches, and work it as described in the row above. 3rd Row, As 5th or 41st row of forehead receipt.—Then at the end of this row pick up on the left hand pin the outside stitch of the 6 cast-off stitches, and work it. Should you have an odd stitch at the end of the row, make the last T with the three loops. 4th Row, As 42nd row in forehead receipt.—Then at the end of this row pick up on the left hand pin, and work the outside stitch of the other 6 cast-off stitches, for the other side. Having worked the 4th row as far as now described, the next loop on this row, you will perceive, is the last long loop of the front caser, consisting of 4 threads, which pick up on THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 85 to the left hand pin, and work all the threads off as one stitch ; then again, before taking them off the left pin, work them from the back part, so as to make 2 stitches in this long loop; now tie on the pink wool, and pick up on the left pin the three pink stitches at the edge of cap, and work them. This finishes the 4th row. 5th Row, Plain.—Then at the end of this row pick up on the left hand pin, and work the other long loop and the three pink edge stitches, as before. 6th Row, Plain. 7th Row, Cast off.— This finishes the Cap. IV.—BRIOCHE CUSHION, OR FOOTSTOOL, Composed of ten broad stripes and ten smaller, in bright gold colour; the broad stripes are worked in scarlet and blue alternately, each stripe being intersected by six rows of black. This Brioche, when made up, is shaped exactly like an orange, indented at top and bottom, which is done by the fastening of the rosette, as will be described ; the divisions, when worked, resemble the divisions of the orange when the peel is taken off. It is worked on two pins of No, 7. When it is-worked, knit up, or 36 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. sew together the original cast on row and the last row of yellow. In making it up, take a piece of dark coloured skirt-lining, the same length of the middle part of the work, I mean the whole circumference, then measure the depth, and cut it about two and a half inches less than it; this lining is quitea straight piece of cloth,and should mea- sure about one yard and twenty-four inches in length, and in depth twenty-four inches: join it up, then draw it up at top quite close, it is also drawn up at bottom, and sewed to a round piece of millboard, covered with the skirt-lining ; the millboard is six anda half inches in diameter. This inner cushion is stuffed with fine combed wool; the work is put over it, and drawn up at top in the same way as the inner lining, at the bottom, turn in a small piece of the work, as it will be rather longer than the inner lining, and sew it to the round piece at bottom; the cushion is finished with a hand- some tassel and rosette; the tassel has a piece of cord attached to it, which is fastened quite in the centre of the top where the work is drawn up ; this you fasten down with packthread, with a large needle, down through the top and through the millboard ; this is to sink the top, then sew on the rosette, which should be about four and a half inches in diameter, and made as a bell-pull rosette, in the same colours as the ‘4 9 THE LADY 8 WORK BOOK. 7 stool is composed of. A piece of leather cut in the shape of the millboard is sewn on the top of the millboard to cover it. The colours are arranged for working as follows :— FIRST WORKING OF RECEIPT. SECOND WORKING OF RECEIPT, Black, six rows. Black, six rows. Scarlet, broad. Mazarine Blue, broad. Black, six rows. Black, six rows. Yellow, narrow. Yellow, narrow. These worked four more times form the Brioche. The brioche is worked with double German wool. Two and a quarter ounce of scarlet, two and a quarter ounce of blue, one and a quarter gold colour, one and a half of black are required, and a pair of ivory pins, No. 7. Working Receipt. Cast on 135 stitches with Black wool. Ist Row, *O, S, T, repeat to top. * To make this O, at the beginning of a row, you must have the thread in front before commencing ; in repeating it during the row, you bring the thread in front between the wires. f . 8 THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 2d Row, *O, S, T, repeat to bottom. T 3d Row, *O, S, T, repeat to top. 4th Row, *O, S, T, repeat to bottom. 5th Row, *O, S, T, repeat to top. 6th Row, *O, S, T, repeat to bottom. With Red. 7th Row, *O, S, T, repeat to top. 8th Row, O, S, T, repeat to bottom, all but +three stitches. 9th Row, O, 8, T, repeat to top, all but +three stitches. 10th Row, O, S, T, repeat to bottom, leaving +three more stitches in addition to the other three stitches that were left before. 11th Row, 0, S, T, repeat to top, leaving three stitches in addition to the other three stitches that are left before. hand, and, of course, the right wire into the left hand, and work to top as before, having the thread in + Leave the three stitches unworked on the left hand pin, then take the left hand pin into the right front before commencing the first stitch, so as to form the O. f 12th Row, 13th Row, 26th Row, * 27th Row, *O, S 28th Row, *O, S 29th Row, *O,S *0, S, 0,S 0,5 30th Row, 31st Row, *O, 32d Row, * THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 39 O, S, T, repeat to bottom, leaving +three more stitches in addition to the six left before. Oe So.ks repeat to top, leaving Lina more stitches in addition to the six left before. Continue working as above, always leaving three more stitches unworked every row, in addition to those left before, until you have worked the 25th row. O, 8, T, quite to the bottom. This finishes the scarlet division. With Black. , 8, T, repeat to top. , 9, T, repeat to bottom. T, repeat to top. T, repeat to bottom. S, T, repeat to top. T, repeat to bottom. 40 33d Row, 34th Row, 35th Row, 36th Row, 37th Row, 38th Row, 39th Row, 40th Row, 41st Row, > , 8, T, O, S, ky 0, S, T, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. With Bright Gold Colour. repeat to top. ', repeat to bottom, all but +three stitches. repeat to top, all but +three stitches. repeat to bottom, leaving +three additional stitches to the three that were left before. repeat to top, leaving three more stitches in addition to the three left before. repeat to bottom, leaving +three more stitches in addition to the six left before. repeat to top, leaving +three more stitches in addition to the six left before. repeat to bottom, leaving +three more stitches in addition to the nine left before. repeat to top, leaving +three more stitches in addition to the nine left before. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 4} 42d Row, O, S, T, repeat to bottom, leaving +three more stitches in addition to the twelve left before. 43d Row, O,S, T, repeat to top, leaving tthree more stitches in addition to the twelve left before. 44th Row, O, S, T, quite to bottom. This finishes Gold Colour. The above Receipt worked nine more times forms the Brioche, with this change,— every alternate time the Receipt is worked substitute the mazarine blue colour for the red, as will be seen by observing the arrangement of colours. NEW PATTERN, V.—DIAMOND OF CLOSE WORK, SURROUNDED WITH A ROW OF HOLES GOING IN A WAVE PATTERN. Cast on 20 stitches for each pattern. This pattern was taken from a lace stocking worked in Malta; the stitch being 42 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. as novel as the pattern is pretty. Many of the following stitches were taken from the same source. Ist Round, P, O, P3, LT,* P, uT, P, uT, P, tT, P, O, Tas repeat all round. 2nd Round, P, O, P, T; O, Po ety Py et, Py ul, Fe; LuT, P2, T; repeat all round. 83rd Round, P2, LO p4, xT; fide TT ok; Ealys Ps Eek, acs repeat all round. 4th Round, P38, O, P, 9, T, Piikh> FLT, Prot) Ease Ls repeat all round. 5th Round, P, O, T, P, O, P4, uT, P, xT, 1 fie Fp ea ald repeat all round. 6th Round, P5, O, P, T; OG) Preniee?, an0 oP 28, Pi Bs repeat all round. 7th Round, P, T, O, uT, POs P4, oT, Byatt, Py) Tablas repeat all round. 8th Round, P3, LT, p2, oO, se O, ,. a LT, 1 EE, P2, Ts repeat all round. 9th Round, P, O, T, xT, P3, 0, P4, LT, P, xT, Poe repeat all round. 10th Round, P3, tT, P, LT, P, 9, Peet 0; P) ul, by ok, 2; repeat all round. *1T is worked by picking up from the front, on the point of the right-hand wire, not the side loop, but the stitch just under the first of the two loops that you begin T with, (the picked-up loop being the stitch directly under it in the row below,) then work the two loops of the common T ; by this you have the picked-up loop and the T loop on the right-hand wire ; this completes the LT stitch ; only observe in all the following xows the picked-up stitch is worked exactly as before, with this difference, the loop you pick up is exactly in the same place as before, but you must be particular to observe that it is the one that pulls the second loop on the left wire, or that which pulls the last stitch on the right wire. This you will easily see by looking at the wrong side of the knitting, whether it draws with the two stitches before-mentioned, or not. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 43 Mth: Round; PP; T, 0, .1T, P, oT, 220, 4, at P2Z.5T repeat all round. Mth: Roundy+P3,.u0T,. Py 2aT,. P3205 2, 0) sy Fs \uT,, PL Tt; repeat all round. 18th Round, P, O, T,; tT, P, 2T,°P, oT,0P, 0,-P4, 1T, 1; repeat all round. J4th- Round, PS, iT; P, 2T;, P,. 2Ty BZ O3SP)-T, 0, P2023 repeat all round. potheRound Py D, OO; ut, P; et) Rant haeO, Paik repeat all round. iii Barnd. Pd. £55) Py 2ol,.'P, 2E Pies PO; P.O, takes repeat all round. Pith Round, P, 0; T, 1T, P35 .uT, Pieter ls P20) Bess repeat all round. Pith Round, P38) -uT; -P,, oT, P, wy fe, 0; 7, 1 repeat all round. 19th Round, P,* T, O, LT, P, LT, P, LT, P; wT, P, O, T, P, O, P, Tr; repeat all round. 20th Round,..P;*: BP, i T;.-P; -2T, Ponies, ale 2, 28,0; 22, ees repeat all round. 21st. Round, P,* 1uT, P, 1T, P, Ty; Pp xT) BP, T, :0, P, 0} Pe; Tr; repeat ‘all round. 22nd Round, uT, P, xT, P, wT, P, rT, P, P3, O, P, T, O, P, Tr; repeat with the other wires thiss—P2; tT; P, xT, P, .T, Paes Or, T; 0, Ps. ire wanound, P;* \P; xT. P, oT. P), BE ey Op 7, PL. 0;: Po ees repeat all round. * This plain stitch only occurs at the beginning of the row, and is never worked again during the round, and must be lifted on to the wire you have just concluded the 18th round with, (as it is required to knit the Tr at the end of the 19th round,) in consequence of which, you will perceive you are deficient a stitch at the end of the first and second wires. This stitch must, of course, be taken from off the following wire. This note applies to all those marked P*. 4.4: THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 24th Round, P,* tT, P, vT, P, tT, P, P3, O, P3300; Sip Bir repeat all round. 25th Round, tT, P, tT, P, tT, P, T, O, P, O, P, T, PA, Tr; repeat with the following wires thus,—_P2, tT, P, rT, P, T, O, P O, P, LT, p4, Tr. 26th Round, P,* P, tT, P, xT, Paps rOe Pe 2Ty PT; FOeeP, Tr repeat all round. 27th Round, P,* tT, P, tT, P, O, by O) P38; 1Ts. Pas TEs repeat all round. 28th Round, tT, P, rT, P, P3, O, P, rT, P, rT, P, O, T, P, Tr; repeat with the other wires thus, P2, rT, P, P3, O, P, tT, P, xT, P,°0; 5.2 Le 29th Round, P,* P, uT, P, T, O, P,; O, P2, rT, P, uT, P4, Tr; repeat all round. 30th Round,-P,* rT, P, P38, O, P34 76> Ps LT, PB TT, Of PF Tes repeat all round. 83lst Round, tT, P, O, T, P, O, P, LT, P, LT, P, LT, P4, Tr; repeat with the other wires thus,—P2, 0, Ty, P;:0, P, xT, P; 1T; P, rT, P4, Tr. 32nd Round, P,* P4, O, P2, rT, P, rT; P, LT, P; O, Test ats repeat all round. 33rd Round, P,* T, O, P, O, P3, LT, P, xT, Pyrat, Ps) crs repeat all round. 834th Round, P,* P2, O, P,; tT, P, LT, P, “tT, P, tT, P, T, O, P,< Trs repeat.all round. 35th Round, P,* P, O, P2, tT, P, uT, P, LT, P,<17,, PAs Tr; repeat all round. Repeat from first row. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 45 VI.— VERY PRETTY OPEN STITCH. It can be worked for stockings, cuffs, mittens, caps, purses, or any other article that ean be worked on four wires. This pattern consists of open diamonds, and alternately narrow stripes of open stitch running down, if for cuffs or stockings, use Taylor's cotton, No. 30. wires No. 22. Cast on 16 stitches for every pattern you may wish. Ist Round, P, O, A, O, P5, O, A, O, P4, repeat all round. 2nd Round, T, O, P T, P2, T, O, P3, O, Tr, P2, repeat all round. 8rd Round, P, O, A P2, T, O, P, T, O, P2, O, Tr, P, repeat all round. 4th Round, T, O, P, O, T, T, O, P7, O, T, repeat all round. 5th Round, P, O, A, O, P3, O, T, P3, T, O, P2, repeat all round. 6th Round, T, O, P, O, T, P3,0, T, P, T, O, P3, repeat all round. Repeat from first round. ? ? . THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. VIL—VERY PRETTY STITCH FOR FOUR WIRES. If for stockings, Taylor’s cotton, No. 30. wires, No. 22. Cast on 12 stitches for each pattern you wish. 1st Round, P2, T, P2, O, P6, repeat all round. 2nd Round, P, T, P2, O, P7, repeat all round. 8rd Round, T, P2, O, P8, repeat all round. 4th Round, P6, O, P2, Tr, P2, repeat all round. 5th Round, P7, O, P2, Tr, P, repeat all round. 6th Round, P8, O, P2, Tr, repeat all round. Repeat from first round. VIIL—OPEN STITCH FOR FOUR WIRES.—SORT OF SMALL OPEN LEAF. Cast on 9 stitches for each pattern you wish. Ist Round, P, 0, P, O, P5, T, repeat all round. 2nd Round, P8, T, repeat all round. 8rd Round, P2, 0, P, O, P4, T, repeat all round, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. AT 4th Round, P8, T, repeat all round. 5th Round, P3, 0, P, O, P3, T, repeat all round. 6th Round, P8, T, repeat all round. 7th Round, P4, O, P, O, P2, T, repeat all round. Sth Round, P8, T, repeat all round. 9th Round, P5, O, P, O, P, T, repeat all round. 10th Round, P8, T, repeat all round. llth Round, P6, O, P, O, T, repeat all round. 12th Round, P8, T, repeat all round. IX._VERY BEAUTIFUL OPEN STITCH. The pattern is a row of open diamonds and three rows of a kind of wave pattern, alternately running downwards. The cotton and wires the same as the previous pattern for fine work. Cast on 29 stitches for each pattern you wish. Ist Round, P5, 0, A, O, P5, O, Tr, P6, O, Tr, P6, repeat all round. 48 2nd Round, 3rd Round, 4th Round, 5th Round, 6th Round, 7th Round, 8th Round, 9th Round, 10th Round, 11tn Round, 12th Round, 13th Round, 14th Round, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. | ag 18 Bs On Be ae Tr, P3, O, P, Tr, P5, 0, P, Tr, P5, repeat all round. P234,-0;-P5,.0; PraP2. iO, P2; Tr, P4, O, P2, Tr, P4, repeat all round. P, T, 0, P7, O, TepP,-0,P3, Tr, “PS, (OO) P38, ‘Tr, PSy-reppatigll round. T, O, P38, O, A, O, P38, O, Tr, O, P4, Tr, P2,0, P4, Tr, P2, repeat all round. P27O, Tr; Poe tae es P5, Tr, P, O, P5, Tr, P, repeat all round PayO- Tr 3st, Onkol, O;.26, T, 0, repeat all round. P4, O, Tr, Py TaOPT, ’p, 0; Pa Pse7 0; repeat all round. P5045 04ro, 2, OO; P4 TS P20: repeat all round. P3, T, O, P3, O, Tr, P6, T, P3, O, P3, T, P3, O, repeat all round. P2, T, O, P5, O, Tr, P4, T, P4, O, P2, T, P4, O, repeat all round. P, T, 0, P7, 0, Tr, P2, T, P5, O, P, T, P5, O, repeat all round. Te OePS, Os AsO: P38: O;Tr, 0, Tr, P6, O, Tr, P6, repeat all round. eO- Tr Pot O

iL I 2nd Row, Bead, +O, 7, Bead, O, 7; repeat Bead, O, -, to end of row. ? iL L I iL Repeat as Ist and 2nd rows, until you have about 9 inches worked; then cast it off. When worked, damp and pin it out to dry ; sew up the two edges together, leaving about one-third of them open, to admit the money ; draw up the cast-on row, and then draw up the cast off row. Add tassels and rings of steel to suit. * To make this O, at the beginning of the row, you must bring the thread in front, before commencing to work the J; in repeating the O, throughout the row, bring the thread to the front, then J,, in the common way, + Before working this 0, pass a bead quite up to the edge stitch, then bring the thread in front as before, and work the L3 in repeating the O, throughout this row, pass a bead quite up to the last stitch, then bring the thread in front, then [> in the common way, THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 89 XXI.—VERY PRETTY HOOD FOR A BABY. This Hood is fora girl. It has a horse-shoe crown, and a little bonnet front; and, when knit, is drawn: with very narrow satin ribbon. There are two ribbons drawn through the two open rows round the back part of the horse-shoe crown, then three on the front part of it; the first and second of which is drawn a little, the third is drawn to fit the head; then two more on the little front part. The ribbon next to the one that is made to fit the head, is made a little wider, and the next still wider ; this is to form a sort of little open front. The ribbons of each row tie in front, then round the edge of the front. There are six rows of net work on the six ridges* next the last ribbon on the front. The six outside ridges are left plain, to form a hemmed inside ; but, before it is hemmed down, there is a piece of very stout wire ribbon sewed inside, just underneath the first row of net work, which will be quite at the edge of the Hood when the six ridges are turned inside and hemmed down. This libiii i is just the breadth of those ridges that were net ; 80, consequently, the * A ridge is two rows of knitting. 90 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. cast-off edge meets the first open row on the front of the Hood. Line it with persian, same colour as the ribbon; let the lining come to ‘meet the hem, which will be about an inch from the edge. The lining is about a finger-length and a half deep, and three finger lengths and a half long ; then simply sew up about three inches for the back part, and draw up the remainder. This forms a sort of little cap; sew it in, as before described, in the front and all round the back, and also at the top of the crown, and round that part where the ribbon draws to fit the head ; then finish with a pretty little rosette with two long ends. Two ivory pins of No. 10, and 1: oz. of German wool, are required. Cast on 5 stitches for Crown. Ist Row, S, edge stitch, plain, and 20 more rows. 22nd Row, 8, edge stitch, T, P2. 23rd Row, S, edge stitch, T, P. 24th Row, S, edge stitch, T. 25th Row, S, edge stitch, T; this finishes the centre part of the Crown; pick up 12 stitches down the side of the Crown, knitting them as you pick them up. 26th 27th 28th 33rd 34th 40th 43rd 44th 46th A7th 48th THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 9} Row, S, edge stitch, plain, till you come to the other side of the Crown-piece ; then pick up 13 stitches instead of 12 as on the other side. Row, S, edge stitch, plain ; in this row you should have 26 stitches. Row, S, edge stitch,* plain, and 4: more rows. Row, S, edge stitch,* P, O; repeat P, O, to end. Row, S, edge stitch, plain; repeat this row 5 more times. Row, §, edge stitch, *plain, and 2 more rows. Row, §S, edge stitch, *P, O ; repeat P, O, to end. Row, §, edge stitch, plain, and 1 more row. Row, 8, edge stitch, pearl or back row. Row, §, edge stitch, P, T, the rest of the row plain, all but edge T. Row, §, edge stitch, B, 7, pearl the rest of the row, edge 7,; repeat as ATth and 48th rows 5 more times; then lift and work the 12 stitches down the side that has been taken in. * All the rows marked with a star, are to be knit with double wool. 92 49th Row, S, 50th Row, S, 51st Row, S, 52nd Row, S, 58rd Row, S, 56th Row, S, 57th Row, S, 58th Row, S, 61st Row, S 62nd Row, S, 65th Row, S THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. edge stitch ; rest of the row plain, then lift up and work the twelve stitches at the other side, where it has been taken in. edge stitch, pearl or back row. edge stitch, T, O; repeat T, O, to end of row, edge T, edge stitch, T; repeat T, to end of row. edge stitch, *plain, and 2 rows more. edge stitch, P,O; repeat P, O, to end of row, edge P. edge stitch, T, P2; repeat T, P2, to end of row. edge stitch, plain, and 2 more rows. edge stitch, §plain, until you come to the tenth stitch from the centre, then work them thus, T, T, T, T, T, again with the remainder of the row, T, T, T, T, T; rest of the row plain. edge stitch, plain, and 2 more rows, edge stitch, O, P ; repeat O, P, to end of row. * All the rows marked with a star, are to be knit in double wool. § In this row you take in 10 times, exactly in the centre of the row. 66th Row, S, 67th Row, S, 68th Row, §, 71st Row, S, 72nd Row, 8, 73rd Row, S$ 74th Row, S, 77th Row, §, 78th Row, S 79th Row, S, 80th Row, S, 81st Row, 5, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 93 edge stitch, plain. edge stitch, T ; repeat T, to end of row. edge stitch, plain, and 2 more rows. edge stitch, O, P; repeat O, P, to end of row. edge stitch, plain. edge stitch, T ; repeat T, to end of row. edge stitch, plain, and 2 more rows. edge stitch, O, P, to end of row. edge stitch, plain. edge stitch, T; repeat T, to end of row. edge stitch, plain. edge stitch ; in working this row you must pick up and work twenty- five additional stitches, in this way work two or three plain stitches ; then pick up a stitch from the row below on to point of left hand pin, and work it, and so on to the end; this picking up from the row is to prevent making a hole, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 82nd Row, S, edge stitch, plain. 83rd Row, S, edge stitch, plain, all but four stitches from the centre, work them thus; T, T, then T, T, rest of row plain. 84th Row, S, edge stitch, plain, and 20 more rows. 104th Row, cast off. FOR CURTAIN, Pick up between the third open row, from the front along the back, to the third row at the other side, 46 stitches. 1st Row, S, edge stitch, plain. 2nd Row, S, edge stitch, P, O; repeat P, O, to end of row. 8rd Row, S. edge stitch, plain, and 31 more rows. Now pick up the loops on the side of the curtain, and work them up. 35th Row, S, edge stitch, plain, until you come to the other side of the curtain ; pick up and work the other side loops. 36th Row, S, edge stitch, O, T; repeat O, T, to end of row. 37th Row, S, edge stitch, plain, and two more rows. on THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 9 38th Row, S, edge stitch, O, T; repeat O, T, to end of row. 39th Row, S, edge stitch, plain, and six more rows ; cast it off ; sew the ends of the curtain that are detached from the Hood, to meet the first open row from the front. 46th Row, cast off. The Hood should then be washed, according to the directions given at the end of No. XXIV. page 118. When quite dry, net six rows of netting on the outside of the front, with double wool, anda mesh about three-fourths of an inch in breadth. The row you commence on is the exact middle one of the plain piece at the edge of the front. Work a net stitch into each loop of that ridge, and in the five succeeding ridges do the same; the end of last ridge brings you to the open row. When this is done, sew a piece of wire ribbon inside, just under the first row of netting, to keep out the front, as described before; then hem down the plain piece at the edge, making the cast-off edge meet the first row of holes on the inside of the front. 96 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. XXII.—SQUARE FOR A COUNTERPANE, &c. This Square is composed of a star in the centre, and a diced border all round. When you have worked as many squares as you think sufficient for the size of cover, join them together, then add the border, which will be the next in succession to this receipt. Little tufts of white cotton, after it is made up, are sewn on each corner of the squares, Use two wires No. 16, and cotton No. 6, called Dutch twist, of which it requires about half an ounce for each square. Cast on 50 stitches. Ist Row, P2 edge—B2, P2; repeat B2, P2, to end of row. 2nd Row, B2 edge—P2, B2; repeat P2, B2, to end of row. 3rd Row, B2 edge—P2, B2; repeat P2, B2, to end of row. 4th Row, P2 edge—B2, P2; repeat B2, P2, to end of row. Repeat as the above four rows two more times. 13th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—rest plain all but 8 stitches, for the other side of border work them thus, B2, P2, B2, P2. THE LADY 8 WORK BOOK. 97 14th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—B9, P, B14, P, BS—P2, B2, P2, B2. 15th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—rest plain all but 8 stitches ; work them thus, P2, B2, P2, B2. 16th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—B9, P2 B12, P2, BI—B2, P2, B2, P2. 17th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—rest plain all but 8 stitches ; work them thus, P2, 52, > P2, B2. 18th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—B9, P3, B10, P3, B9J—P2, B2, P2, B2. 19th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—rest plain all but 8 stitches ; work them thus, P2, B2 Im P2, B2. 20th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—B9, P4, BS, P4, B9—B2, P2, B2, P2. 21st Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—rest plain all but 8 stitches ; work them thus, B2, P2, B2, P2. 22nd Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—B9, P5, B6, P5, B9—P2, B2, P2, B2. 28rd Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—rest plain all but 8 stitches ; work them thus, P2, B2, P2, B2. 24th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—B9, P6, B4, P6, BI—B2, P2, B2, P2. Von. II. G 98 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 25th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—-rest plain all but 8 stitches ; work them thus, B2, P2, B2,; P2. 26th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—B9, P7, B2, P7, B9—P2, B2, P2, B2. 27th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—rest plain all but 8 stitches; work them thus, P2, Bl: P2, Be. 28th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—B9, P16, B9,—B2, P2, B2, P2. 29th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—+rest plain all but 8 stitches; work them thus, B2 P2: B2,.P 2: 30th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—B, P15, B2, P15, B,—P2, B2, P2, B2. 3lst Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—rest plain all but 8 stitches; work them thus, P2, B2, P2, Ba. 32nd Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—B2, P13, B4, P13, B2,—B2, P2, B2, P2. 33rd Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—rest plain all but 8 stitches; work them thus, B2, P2; BQ; P2. 34th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—B3, P11, B6, P11, B3,—P2, B2, P2, B2. 35th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—P15, B4, P15,—P2, B2; P2, B2. J THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 99 36th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—B4, P9, BY, P4, B2, P9, B4,—B2, P2, B2, P2. 87th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—P15, B4, P15,—P2, B2, P2, B2. 38th Row, B2, P2, Be, P2,—B5, P7, B38, P4, B3, P7, B5,—P2, Ba, P2, Be. 39th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—P15, B4, P15,—P2, B2, P2, B2. 40th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—B6, Ps, B4, P4, B4, P5, BG,—B2, P2, B2, P2. 4lst Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—P15, B4, P15,—B2, P2, B2, P2. 42nd Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—B7, P3, B, P4, B4, P4, B, P3, B7,—P2, B2, Pa, B2. 43rd Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—P11, B4, P4, B4, P11,—P2, Ba, P2, Be. 44th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—B8, P, B2, P4, B4, P4, B2, P, B8,—B2, Pe, Be, P2. 45th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—P11, B4, P4, B4, P11,—B2, P2, B2, Pe. 46th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—B8, P, B2, P4, B4, P4, B2, P, B8,—P2, Be, P2, Ba. A7th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—P11, B4, P4, B4, P11,—P2, B2, P2, B2. 48th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—B7, P3, B, P4, B4, P4, B, P3, B7,—B2, P2, B2, P2. 49th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—P10, B, P4, B4, P4, B, P10,—B2, P2, Be, P2. 50th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—B6, PS, B4, P4, B4, P5, B6,—P2, B2, P2, B2. Bist Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—P15, B4, P15,—P2, B2, P2, B2. 100 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK: 52nd Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—B5, P7, B38, P4 BB, P7, B5,—B2, P2, B2, Pa. 53rd Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—P15, B4, P15,—B2, P2, Bg, P2. 54th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—B4, P9, B2, P4, B2, P9, B4.—P2, B2, P2, Ba, 55th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—P15, B4, P15,—P2, B2, P2, Be. 56th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—B3, Pll, B6, P11, B3,—B2, P2, Be, Pe. 57th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—rest plain all but 8 stitches; work them thus, B2, P2; B2; P2: 58th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—B2, P13, B4, P13, B2,—P2, B2, P2, B2. 59th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2,—rest plain all but 8 stitches; work them thns P2 B2, P2, B2. 60th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—B, P15, B2, P15, B,—B2, P2, B2, P2. 61st Row, P2, B2, P2, B2,—rest plain all but 8 stitches: PeSBe PS. 62nd Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—B9, P16, BI—P2, B2, P2, B2. _—o ; work them thus, B2, 63rd Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—rest plain all but 8 stitches; work them thus, P2, B2, Poe: THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 101 64th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—B9, P7, B2, P7, B9—B2, P2, B2, P2. 65th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—rest plain all but 8 stitches ; work them thus, B2, P2, BeAP2: 66th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—B9, P6, B4, P6, B9J—P2, B2, P2, B2 67th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—rest plain all but 8 stitches ; work them in P2: B2, P2, B2. 68th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—B9, P5, B6, P5, B9—B2, P2, B2, P2. 69th Row, P2, - B2, P2, B2—rest plain all but 8 stitches ; work them thus, B2, P2, 39, Po. 70th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—B9, P4, B8, P4, BI—P2, B2, P2, B2 71st Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—rest plain all but 8 stitches ; work them is R23: B2, P2, B2 72nd Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—B9, P3, B10, P3, B9—B2, P2, B2, P2. 73rd Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—rest plain all but 8 stitches ; work them thus, B2, P2, B2,.P2: 74th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—B9, P2, B12, P2, B9—P2, B2, P2, B2. 102 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 75th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2—rest plain all but 8 stitches ; thus, P2, B2, P2, B2, 76th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2—B9, P, B14, P, B9—B2, P2, B2, P2. 77th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2Q—rest plain all but 8 stitches; thus, B2, P2, 78th Row, B2 edge—P2, B2; repeat P2, B2, to end of row. 79th Row, B2 edge—P2, B2; repeat P2, B2, to end of row. 80th Row, P2 edge—B2, P2; repeat B2, P2, to end of row. Slst Row, P2 edge—B2, P2 ; repeat B2, P2, to end of row. 82nd Row, B2 edge—P2, B2; repeat P2, B2, to end of row. 88rd Row, B2 edge—P2, B2 ; repeat P2, B2, to end of row. 84th Row, P2 edge—B2, P2; repeat B2, P2, to end of row. 85th Row, P2 edge—B2, P2; repeat B2, P2, to end of row. 86th Row, B2 edge—P2, B2; repeat P2, B2, to end of row. 87th Row, B2 edge—P2, B2; repeat P2, B2, to end of row. 88th Row, P2 edge—B2, P2; repeat B2, P2, to end of row. 89th Row, P2 edge—B2, P2; repeat P2, B2, to end of row. 90th Row, cast off. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. XXJIIL.—BORDER FOR COUNTERPANE, Uonsisting of six open stitches running along, intersected by a wave of garter stitch running across them at intervals. Cast on 87 stitches for Border of Counterpane. Ist Row, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2 edge—P63—edge P2, B2, P2, B2. Qnd Row, P2, B2, P2, B2 edge—P63—edge P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2. 3rd Row, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2 edge—P63—edge B2, P2, B2, P2. 4th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2 edge— P63—edge B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2. 5th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2 edge—P63—edge P2, B2, P2, B2. 6th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2 edge—P63—edge P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2. "th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2 edge P63—edge B2, P2, Ba -P2 8th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2 edge—{Tr, P3, O, P, O, P3, A, P3, O, PO. Psi: repeat from +Tr two more times—edge B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, Re. 9th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2 edge—j yp", B3, O, B, 0, B3, y; B3, O, B, 0, B38, zr; repeat from {yr two more times—edge P2, B2, P2, B2. 104 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 10th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2 edge—tTr, P3, O, P, O, PS, ay PaO, Pe P83, Tr; repeat from +Tr two more times—edge P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, Bz, 11th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2 edge—t yr, B3, O, B, O, B3, y, Ba, 0, B, O, B3, zr; repeat from tr two more times—edge B2, P2, B2, P2. 12th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2 edge—}Tr, P3, 0, P, O, P3, A, P3, O, P, O, P3, Tr; repeat from +Tr two more times edge B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2 Po 13th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2 edge—tyr, B3, O, B, O, B3, y, B3, O, B, O, B3, zr; repeat from +Tr two more times—edge P2, B2, P2, B2. 14th Row, P2, B2, P2, B2 edge—{Tr, P3, O, P, O, P3,A, P3, 0, P,O, P38, Tr: repeat from {T two more times—edge P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, Ba. 15th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2 edge—P53—edge B2, P2, B2, P2. 16th Row, B2, P2, B2, P2 edge—P63—edge B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2. Repeat from first row. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 105 XXIV.—_HANDSOME SQUARE KNIT SHAWL, OF A THIN LACE-LIKE FABRIC, This Shawl is exactly in appearance like the Shetland Shawls, only the centre stitch is more novel than any of them I have ever seen. The border is composed of diamonds, surrounded by open work ; the middle or centre stitch, is the same stitch as the Open Mitten, described in First Volume, as also that of the Lace Cap, p. 222 of Appendix to First Volume. This Shawl may be worked with Shetland wool, or two plies super-fleecy, or very fine “ Lady Betty,” or any other fine twisted wool, of which 8 hanks are required; and 2 ivory pins of No. 7, about 13 inches long. Coloured ivory is preferable to white, as the stitches are more distinctly seen on them. If wished, this receipt may all be worked without the plain rows that intervene be and it makes the work much thinner if they are left out ; (or, tween the open ones all the pearl rows, like the Shetland Shawls, may be worked plain rows.) If you work it without the pearl rows, you must commence as the first open row 106 is written in this receipt, and work it; but the second is commenced at the contrary side, working from right hand to left; and so repeat as those rows all throughout the receipt. THE LADY’S WORK BOOK, Cast on 244 stitches. 1st Row, plain. 2nd Row, pearl or back. 3rd Row, plain. 4th Row, pearl or back. 5th Row, plain. 6th Row, pearl or back. 7th Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, O, T, 0, T, O, T, PA—tT, O, P, O, T—P4, T, O, T, 0, T, O. T, O, T,O, T, O, T, O, P6—repeat from the mark ¢ 6 more times ; then T, O, P, O T,—P4, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O—P6 edge stitches. 8th Row, pearl or back. 9th Row, P6 edge stitches—P, O, T, O, T, O, T, P4—+T, O, P3, O, T—P4, T, O, T, O, T, T, O, T, O, T, O, P6—repeat from the mark { 6 more times ; then T, O, P3, O, —P4, T, O, T, O, T, O, Po+P6 edge stitches, 10th Row, pearl or back. cae) - 0. T. > THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 107 11th Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, O, T, O, T, P4A—tT, O, P5, O, T—P4, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, P6—repeat from the mark { 6 more times; then T, O, P5, OC; t—P4, T, 0; T, O, T, O,—P6 edge stitches. 12th Row, pearl or back. 13th Row, P6 edge stitches—P, O, T, O, T, P4—T, O, P, T, O, P, O, T, P, O, T—P4, T, O, T, 0, T, O, T, O, P6—repeat from the mark { 6 more times; then T, O, P, TO; PB, 0, T, P, 0, T—P4, T, O, T, O, P—P6 edge stitches. 14th Row, pearl or back. 15th Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, O, T, P4—_tT, O, P, T, O, P38, O, T, P,(0, T—P4, T,.0, T, O, T, O, P6—repeat from the mark { 6 more times; then T, O, P, T, O, P3, O, T, P, O, T—P4, T, 0, T, O—P6 edge stitches. 16th Row, pearl or back. 17th Row, P6 edge stitches-P, O, T, P4——fT;,0; P; T, O, P5, O, T, P, O, T—P4, PO FO, P6—repeat from the mark £6 more times; then TO; Py Tins. P5,-0,.T, PO, T— p4, T, O, P—P6 edge stitches. 18th Row, pearl or back. 19th Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, P4—tT, 0, P, T, O, P, T, O, P, O, T, P, 0, T, P, O, T—P4, T, O, P6—repeat from the mark { 6 more times ; then T, O, P, T, O, P, T; O, P,Q; T. PO, Fj Py. 0; T—P4, T, O—P6 edge stitches. 20th Row, pearl or back. 108 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 2Ist Row, P6 edge stitches—P5—{T, O, P, T, O, P, T, O, PS; OKT SPION PEP; O, T,—P10, —repeat from the mark + 6 more times; then TO; PTS OLP, T)O;2350) 2 O, T, P, O, T—P5—P6 edge stitches. 22nd Row, pearl or back. 23rd Row, P6 edge stitches -P4—}T, ONE LTO; P2T OF PS; Op Ty?) On TP; OF peapaae repeat from the mark {6 more times; then DOP PTEOMP, T, 0; P5, 0.95 P,O T, P, O, T—P4—P6 edge stitches, 24th Row, pearl or back. 25th Row, P6 edge stitches_P3—}T, O, P, T, OSB; TO; Ry Oye PaO; repeat from the mark + 6 more times; then TO; PALSOcP yl Bere! AT de Wesel 2 FS edge stitches. 26th Row, pearl or back. 27th Row, P6 edge stitches—P2—T, 0, P, T, O, P, T, 0, P9, 0, T repeat from the mark ¢ 6 more times ; then T, O, Py TRO; T, P, O, T—P2—P6 edge stitches, 28th Row, pearl or back. 29th Row, P6 edge stitches—P4—+0, Le O. PONT Ps Ty.O, ed repeat from the mark + 6 more times; then O, T, POT PO, O, P, T, O—P4—P6 edge stitches, 30th Row, pearl or back. , 2 THE LADY 8 WORK BOOK. 109 Bist Row, P6 edge stitches—P5—+O, T, P, Onn. 2.0: Ty. PS. ES. O. PF; O, P, T, O—P10— repeat from the mark t+ 6 more times; then O, T, P, O, RaPrOe Teibos by.O;:P, 13 O, P, T, O—P5—P6 edge stitches. 32nd Row, pearl or back. 33rd Row, PG edge stitches—P6—t0, T, P, O, T, P, O, T, P, T, O, P, T, 0, P, T, O—P12— repeat from the mark ¢ 6 more times; then 0, T, P, OLTEP SORT PTO, PT; 9; P, T, O—P6—P6 edge stitches. 84th Row, pearl or back. 35th Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, P5—t0, T, P, 0, T, P, O, A, O, P, T, 0, P; T, O—P6, 0, T, PG—repeat from the mark 6 more times; then 0, T, P, O, T, P,.0, A, 0, P, T, 0, P, T, 0,—P5, T. O—PG edge stitches. 86th Row, pearl or back. 37th Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, P6—fO, T, P, O, T, P3, T, O, P, T, O—P6, 0, T, O, T, PE— repeat from the mark { 6 more times ; then O, T, P, O, T, P3, T, O, P, T, O—P6,:T, O—P6 edge stitches. 38th Row, pearl or back. 39th Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, O, T, pP5—toO, T, P, 0, T, P, T, O, P, T O-—PG,.0; LOT: O, T, P6—repeat from the mark + 6 more times; then O, T, P, O, T, P, T; O, Pet; O—P5, T, O, T, O—P6 edge stitches. 110 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 40th Row, pearl or back. 41st Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, O, T, P6—fO, T, P, 0, A, O, P, T, O—P6, O, T, 0, T, O, T, O, T, P6—repeat from the mark $ 6 more times; then O, T, P, O, A, OQ, P, T, O—P6, T, O, T, O—P6 edge stitches, 42nd Row, pearl or back. 43rd Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, O, T, O, T, P5—tO, T, P3, T, O—P6, O, T, O, T, O, T, 0, T, O, T, P6—repeat from the mark { 6 more times; then O, T, P3, T, O—P5, T, O, T, O, T, O—P6 edge stitches. 44th Row, pearl or back. 45th Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, O, T, O, T, P6—{O, T, P, T, O—P6, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, P6—repeat from the mark { 6 more times; then O, T, P, T, O—P6, T, O, T, O, T, O,—P6 edge stitchse. 46th Row, pearl or back. 47th Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, P5—+O, A,,O—P6, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, P6—repeat from the mark { 6 more times ; then O, A, O—P5, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O—P6 edge stitches, 48th Row, pearl or back. A9th Row, plain. 50th Row, pearl or back. 51st Row, plain. THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 111 Before commencing the next row, reckon your number of stitches. If you have made no mistakes, you will have 244 stitches. Should you, by any mishap, have more or less, you must consequently take them in, or make some stitches, to bring it to the original number cast on ; if you have to increase them, they must be done without making a hole, by picking up on the point of the left hand pin a stitch from the row below, and knit it; this should be done in the centre part of the Shawl, and the stitches wrought apart from each other, in order they may not be perceived. 52nd Row, B6 edge stitches—B29, .L>* rest of the row plain, alt but 37 stitches ; work them thus, .L, B29—B6 edge stitches. Observe to take in twice in working the plain part, so as to have four intakes in the row. In the following row the middle stitch of Shawl commences. 53rd Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, O, T, O, T, 0, T, P4—T, 0, P, O, TPA, T; 0, T, O, T, O, T, O—P4, T, P2—|0, T, O, T, O, P, O, p2, T, P4, T, P2—repeat from the mark || 8 more times; then O, T, O, T, O, P, O, P2, T—O, T, O, T, 0, T, O, T, P4—T, O, P, O, T—P4, T, 0, T, O, T, O; T, O—P6 edge stitches. 54th Row, pearl or back. % You must take in 4 times, in order to make the centre stitch work in properly. 112 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK, 55th Row, P6 edge stitches—P, O, T, O, T, O, T, P4—T, O, P3, O, T—P4, T, O, T,.0,,.T,,0;?— 3,1, Pe—||0,.T; 0; 1: 0, Ps, O, P2, T, P2, T, P2—repeat from the mark || 8 more times, then 0, T, O, T, 0, P3, 0, P, T—P, O, T, 0, T, 0, T, P4—T, O, P3, 0, T— Pa T; '0,/T, 0, T, 0; PPG edge stitches. 56th Row, pearl or back. 57th Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, 0, T, 0, T, P4A—T, 0, P5,0f0T==P4) T;.0;, T; 0,285 o—T, T, P2—||0, T, 0, T, 0, P5, 0, P2, T, T, P2—repeat from the mark || 8 more times; then 0, T, 0, T, 0, P5, 0, P20, T, 0, T, 0, T, P4—T, 0, P5, 0, T—P4, T, 0, T, 0, T, O—P6 edge stitches. 58th Row, pearl or back. 59th Row, P6 edge stitches—P, 0, T, 0, T, P4—_T, O, P, T, 0, P, O, T, P, 0, T—P4, T, 0, T, 0, P=, F2, 0, P—|[0; 10,1) 0; P2 T. P4, T, P2, O, P—repeat from the mark || 8 more times ; then O, T, 0, T, 0, P2, Ty PAS ORL GsT; P4—T; 0;:P;T, 0; PO: T, P, 0, T—P4, T, 0, T, 0, PPG edge stitches, 60th Row, pearl or back. 61st Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, 0, T, PA—T, O, P, T, 0, P3, 0, T, P, 0, T—P4, T, 0, T, 0 —T, P, 0, P3—||O, T, 0, T, 0, P2, T, P2s ta bene, P3—repeat from the mark | 8 more times, then O, T, 0, T, 0, P2, T, P30, T;. 9, T,. PAT, 0; Ped Oma O, T, FO, 0 —P4, To Ont. O- pe edge stitches. THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 113 62nd Row, pearl or back. 63rd Row, PG edge stitches—P, 0, T, PA—T, 0, P, T, 0, P5, 0, T, P O T—P4, T, 0, P—P2, 0, P5—||0, T, 0, T, O, P2, T, T, P2, 0, P5—repeat from the mark || 8 more times; then 0, T, 0, T, 0, P2, T, T; P; Q, Dy P4—T, 0, P, T, 0, Pb, 0, T, P, 0, T—P4, T; 0, P—P6 edge stitches. 64th Row, pearl or back. 65th Row, P6 edge stitches—O, T, PA—T, O, P, T, 0, P; T, 0, P; 0, T; P, 0, T, P, 0, T—P4, T, O—P4, T, P2—||9, T, ONES Os bs 0) 22> T, P4, T, P2—repeat from the mark || 8 more times; then 0, T, O, T. O, Pp, 0, P2, T—O, T, Pie ETOP, 15.0, ba ts aD 34 OFT eu Op ses O, T—P4, T, O—P6 edge stitches. 66th Row, pearl or back. 67th Row, P6 edge stitches—P5—T, 0, P, T, 0, P, T; 0, P3; 9, T, P, 0, T, P, 0, T—P5—P3, T; p2—||0, T; 0, T, 0, PS, 0, P2, T, P2, T, P2—repeat from the mark |; 8 more times ; then 0, T, 0, T, 0, P3, 0, P, T—P5—T; 0, P, T, 0 P, T; 0, P3, O 7; P.O, TPs 0, T—P5—P6 edge stitches. 68th Row pearl or back. Goth Row, P6 edge stitches, PA—T, 0, P, T, 0, P, T, 0, PS, 0, T, P, 0, T, P, 0, T—P4—T, T, P2— JO, T, O, T, O, P5, O, P2, T, T, P2; repeat from || 8 more times, then 0, T, 0, T, 0, PS, 0, P2—-P4—T, 0, P, T, 0, P, T, 0, PS, 0, T, P, 0, TP, O T—P4—P6 edge stitches. Vou. IT. 114 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 70th Row, pearl or back. Zist Row, P6 edge stitches, P3—T, O, P, T, 0; |O, T, O, T, O, P2, T, P4, T, P2 P2, T, P4,_P3_T, O, P, T, O, 72nd Row, pearl or back, 73rd. Row, P6 edge stitches, P2—T, O, P, T, O, P, T, 0, P9, O, T, P, O, T, P, 0, T—~P2—T, P, 0, P3, JO, T, 0, T, O, P2, T, P2, T, P2, 0, P3; repeat from || 8 more times, then O, T, O, T, 0, P2, T, P3—P2—T, 0, P, T, O, P, T, 0, Po, O, T, P, O, T, P, O, T—P2—P6 edge stitches. 74th Rov, pearl or back. 75th Row, P6 edge stitches, PA—O, T, P, O, T, P, 0, T, P5, T, O, P, T, O, P, T, O—P4—P2, 0, P5, |0, T, O, T, O, P2, T; 'T) P2, 0, Ps; repeat from || 8 more times, then O, T, O, T, O, P2, T, T—P4—O, T, P, 0, T, P, O, T, P5, 1,0; P40, Opies ts O—P4—P6—edge stitches. 76th Row, pearl or back. 77th Row, P6 edge stitches, P5—O, T, P, 0, T, P, 0, 'T, P3, D,.0F7 Pr; 0, P, T, O--P5—P4, T, P2, ]0, T, O, T, O, P, O, P2, T, P4, T, P2; repeat from || 8 more times; then O, T, O, T, O, Peer 2,. T-— PhO; ib i0; 1, .P, 6, 1, Ps, B10, 2} P50, P, T, O—P5—P6 edge stitches, 78th Row, pearl or back. 79th Row, P6 edge stitches, P6—0, T, P, 0, T, P, O, T, P, T, 0, P, T; 0; P, T, O—P6—P3, T, P2; |0, T, O, T, O, P3, O, P2, T, P2, T, P2; repeat from || 8 more times ; then O, T, O, T, O, P, T, O, P7, 0, T, P, O, T, P, O, T—P3—T. P2, 0, Pa » O, P; repeat from || 8 more times, then O, T, O, T, 0, 2 T, O, P7, QO, T, P, O, T, P,O, T—P3—P¢ edge stitches, THE LADY 8 WORK BOOK. 115 P3, 0, P, T—P6—0, T, P, 0, T, P; 0, TP, 7, 0, P, T, 0, P, T, O—PG—PE edge stitches. 80th Row, pearl or back. Gist Row, P6 edge stitches, P7—O, T, P, 0, T, P, 0, A; 0, P, T, 0, P, T, O—P7—T, T, P2—l10, T, O, T, O, P5, O, P2, T, T, P25 repeat from || 8 more times; then O, T, 0, T, O, PS, O, P2,; p7—0, T, P, 0, T, P, 0, A, 0, P, T, O, P, T, O—P7—P6 edge stitches. 82nd Row, pearl or back. 83rd Row, P6 edge stitches, 0, T, P6—O, T, P, O, T, P3, T, O, P, T; O—P6, T, O—T, P2, 0, p—|jO, T, O, T, O, P2, T, P4, T, P2, O, Ps repeat from || 8 more times ; then 0, T, O, T, O, P2, T, P4—O, T, P6E—O, T, P, O, T, P3, T, 0, P, T, O—P6, T, O—P6 edge stitches. 84th Row, pearl or back. gsth Row, P6 edge stitches, O, T; 0, T, P5—O, T, P, O, T, P, T,0, P, T, O—PS5, T, O, T, O—T, P,9, P3—||0, T, O, T, O, P2, T, P2, T, P2, O, PS; repeat from {| 8 more times ; then O, T, O, T, 0, P2, T, P3—O, T, 9, T, P5—O, T, P, O, T, P, T, 0, P; T; O—P5, T, 0, T, O—P6 edge stitches. 86th Row, pearl or back. 87th Row, P6 edge stitches, 0, T, 0, T, P6—O, T, P, 0, A, O, P, T, O—P6, T, O, T, O—P2, O, P5— 0, T, O, T, O, P2, T, T, P2, O, PS ; repeat from || more times 5 then 0, T, 0, T; 9, P2, TP 0. 8,-O./E; p6—0, T, P, 0, A, 0, P, T, O—P6, T, O, T, O—P6E edge stitches. @8th Row, pearl or back. 116 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 89th Row, P6 edge stitches, O, 1,0, 7,0, T, P5—O, T, P3, T, O—PS, T, 0, T, O, T, O—P4, T, Po ]O, T, O, T, O, P, O, P2, T, P4, T, P2; repeat from || 8 more times ; then O, T, 0, T, 0, F/O; P2,, T-—0,,T, OE,105°1,) P60, 7, P3, T, O—P5, 2,0, TO; Ope edge stitches. 90th Row, pearl or back. 9Ist Row, P6 edge Stitches, 0, T, O, T, 0, T, P6—0, T, P, T, O—P6, T, 0, T, 0, T, O—P3, T, Pa | 0,T, O, T, O, P3, 0, P2, T, P2, T, P2; tepeat from || 8 more times ; then 0, DOF L203 P3, 0, P, T—O, T, 0, T, O, T, P6—o, T, P, T, O—P6, T, 0, T, O, T, O—P6 edge stitches, 92nd Row, pearl or back, 93rd Row, P6 edge Stitches, O, T, O, T, O, a520;T, (P5—O, A, O—P5, T, O, T, 0, T, 0; T,0=7) ue P2— || 0, T, O, T, 0, P5, 0, Pa, T, T, P2; repeat from | 8 more times ; then O, T, O, T, 0, P5, O, P20, T,.0, ay OF Es, OT, P5i—O, A, O—P5, 7505. 25:0; TAQ; T; O—P6 edge stitches, 94th Row, pearl or back. 95th Row, P6 edge stitches, P29_T, P2, 0, P—||O, T, 0, T, O, P2, T, P4, ee more times ; then O, T, O51;0, P2, T, P4— P29._P6 edge stitches, 96th Row, pearl or back. 97th Row, P6 edge stitches, P29—_T, P, O, P3—||0, T, O, T, O, P2, T, P2, T, P2, 0, P35 repeat from || 8 more times ; then O, T, 0, T, O, P2, T, P3—P29__ pg edge stitches, 98th Row, pearl or back, > O, P ; repeat from \|8 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. VY 99th Row, P6 edge stitches, P29—P2, O, P5—||0, T, 0, T, O, P2, T, T, P2, O, P5 ; repeat from || 8 more times ; then O, T, O, T, O, P2, T, T—P29—P6 edge stitches. 100th Row, pearl or back. Repeat from the 53rd row five more times; but observe, before finishing the fifth time, that you omit the 100th row. This row is only left out in the jifth time of working, as you require on that row to make four more stitches, to make up for the four intakes that were in the 52nd row, otherwise the border cannot be worked in properly. Instead of the 100th row, work the following :— B6 edge stitches, B29, M, B29, M; rest of row plain, all but 64 stitches : work them thus, M, B29, M, B29; BG edge stitches. Then work the receipt exactly as it is from the 3rd row to the 51st row; then add two more rows, the first a pearl row, the last a plain ; then cast off the Shawl. Either add a knit or knotted fringe. The most simple knit fringe I know of, is the one described in Receipt No. X. Vol. I. which is very suitable for this kind of Shawl. I shall endeavour to give a description of a knotted fringe, which certainly looks much the better of the two, in the next following receipt ; though I am doubt- ful if I can explain it so as to be clearly understood by all knitters. 118 THE LADY S WORK ROOK. DIRECTIONS FOR WASHING A KNIT WOOLLEN SHAWL. When the Shawl is finished, it should be washed in water a little more than luke- warm, with white soap, which is preferable to any other. The white soap should be boiled and mixed up in the water before the Shawl is put into it. It is necessary to wash in two waters; and in rinsing, the water must also be above lukewarm, so as to keep the pores of the wool open, to clear it entirely of the soap, otherwise it will get thick and hard. Take about one pint and a half of warm water, and put about two table spoonfuls of dissolved gum arabic into it ; (the gum may be had at a druggists, ready dissolved.) Mix the water and gum well together; dip in the Shawl, and squeeze it two or three times in it, so as to take equally all over it; then wring it well out of this, and again wring it in clean linen cloths ; pin it square out until thoroughly dry, on a carpet, with a clean sheet or table-cloth under it, (<= All open wool knitting should be dressed in this fashion. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK 119 XXV.—KNOTTED FRINGE FOR SHAWLS, &c. &e. This fringe at top resembles 4 rows of netting ; the fringe part is about half a quarter in depth when it is finished. Mode of working —Pin the cast-off edge of the Shawl straight out on a table that has a cover on it, or on anything which will prevent its shifting ; thread a blunt pointed rug needle with double wool, say about two yards long; insert the point of the needle from the back through the first loop above the cast-off row, draw it through the loop; leave about 7 inches of the thread at the back part, and the same in front; cut it off; (do this in every alternate stitch ;) take the front and back rows, draw them straight together between the thumb and fore-finger of the right hand; with the left hand, hold the top of the thread quite close to the cast-off row, between the thumb and fore-finger. Now raise the right hand with the ends of the thread in it, pass it over the thumb and the wool of the left hand ; this, you will perceive, forms a loop on the left thumb; then lift the fore-finger of the left hand, and with it pass the ends that were in the right hand through the loop now form- ed on the thumb ; with the fore-finger and thumb of right hand pull the ends through 120 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. it to the front, draw the loop quite close up to the cast-off row. This is the way all the knots are done in the fringe. You now have four threads hanging together ; repeat as this in every alternate stitch to the end of the row. The second row of knots come between those of the first row, consequently, you must take half of the threads of the first knot, and half of the second, and tie them together. You should knot it about one-fourth of an inch farther down the thread, which maxes a large loop as if it were net. Work as second row two more times, always taking half of the threads from one knot and half from the next, and tie them together as before. By this you have four rows of knots. Should the ends be uneven, they must be cut all of one length. XXVI.—STRONG OPEN KNIT LONG PURSE. Four hanks of second sized purse silk, and two wires of No. 17 are required. Cast on 100 stitches.—(There are four stitches in each pattern.) Ist Row, T's, O, P, B; every row in this purse is the same. Work on until you have about nine inches done ; cast it off; damp, and pin it out THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 121 until dry, and sew up three inches at each side; then draw up first the cast-on and then the cast-off rows 5 add tassels and sliders. XXVIL—ANOTHER SIMPLE AND STRONG STITCH FOR A LONG PURSE, WITH STEEL BEADS INSERTED, Four hanks of dark myrtle green purse silk of common size, two wires of No. 18, and twelve rows of steel beads, are required. Thread the beads on each hank before commencing. Cast on 90 stitches. 1st Row, 0, T, P2; repeat to end. 2nd Row, O, T; passa bead quite down to the last stitch, then P2; repeat to end of row. Repeat as the above two rows, until you have about nine inches or more ; cast it off ; join it up as the former purse. XXVIII.—SHADED KNIT BAG. This bag is worked with eight shades of Berlin wool. Knit from dark to light, and 122 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. from light to dark, as following receipt will show. Three hanks of each shade of wool, and two ivory wires of No. 8, are required ; work with double wool. Cast on 70 stitches. Ist Row, plain, with darkest wool; and three more plain rows. 5th Row, B edge stitch, O, iL; repeat O, 7, to end of row; B edge stitch, 6th Row, plain. 7th Row, plain. 8th Row, plain; second shade. 9th Row, *B2 edge stitch, O, .L3 repeat O, 7, to end of row; B edge stitch. 10th Row, plain. 11th Row, plain. 12th Row, plain ; third shade. 13th Row, B edge stitch, O, ,; repeat O, iL» to end of row; B edge stitch. 14th Row, plain. 15th Row, plain. * Observe, second, fourth, sixth, and eighth shades, you work always two stitches before commencing, THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 123 Repeat successively as second and third shades have been described; having worked the eighth shade, work the shade back again, beginning with the seventh, then the sixth, fifth, fourth, third, second, and first; cast it off; damp, and pin it out until dry; then double up the bag, and sew up the sides; draw a silk cord to suit the colour; add tassels, one at each side of the bag. XXIX.—KNIT BAG OF PURSE CORD, (NOT PURSE TWIST. ) This Bag may be worked in any colour, and may either be lined or not, according to taste. It makes a very pretty street Bag when lined. Two pieces of cord, 36 yards in length, and two wires No. 14, are required. Cast on 50 stitches. 1st Row, plain, and 5 more rows. 7th Row, P3, edge stitches, O, Tp* ; repeat O, Tp, to end of row—P2 edge stitches. * This take-in is not worked in the usual way, but by inserting the wire through the first loop, and catching in the second in the common way ; pull it through the first, then knitit. It is only the second loop that is knit (not both) ; but poth loops are taken off the left wire after this is done. 124 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 8th Row, plain. 9th Row, P3 edge stitches, O, Tp; repeat O, Tp, to end of row—P2 edge stitches, Repeat from first row, until you have about three-eighths of a yard worked. Then finish by six rows plain. Cast it off, and join up the sides. XXX.—KNIT PURSE. This Purse is similar to No. XX. with the exception of being thinner and more elastic. The beads, instead of being on the open part, as the former, are knit in with the x, on the row following the bead row, as following receipt will describe. Three hanks of purse silk of the third size, and 16 rows of stecl beads of No. 7, and two wires, No. 18, are required. String the beads on the silk before commen- cing. Cast on 65 stitches. Ist Row, B edge stitches,—0O, T»—epeat to end. 2nd Row, B edge stitches,—pass a bead down to the last stitch. Knit the O, 7,— Repeat to the end of row, passing the bead down, and then working the Ee THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 125 3rd How, as first —Observe to keep the beads all at the back when working the row with the beads, and work it rather tighter than the bead row. 4th Row, as second. The Purse is all worked in this way. When you have about nine inches worked, cast it off; finish as before described, in No, XX. XXXI.—COMFORT FOR LADY OR GENTLEMAN, Worked in double Berlin white wool, and the ends in seven shades of scarlet. Commence with the darkest shade, and work three open rows with it, and the same with each in succession up to the light shade, then back from light to dark; all the centre part of Comfort in white ; then work the other end as the one described. This Comfort should be about two yards long. Sixpence worth of each shade, and about two ounces of white, and two pins of No. 10, are required. Cast on 59 stitches with darkest shade; work 8 plain rows, then commence— 1st Row, B5 edge stitches, Os, x, B; repeat Ox, J, B, to end of row, all but B3 edge stitches. 126 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 2nd Row, pearl or back. 83rd Row, B7 edge stitches, ,, B, Os; repeat 7, B, Ox, to end of row, all but B4 edge stitches. 4th Row, pearl or back. 5th Row, B6 edge stitches, Os, J, B; repeat Os, 7, B, to end of row, all but BS edge stitches. 6th Row, pearl or back. Then repeat from first row as before described. XXXIIL—HANDSOME KNIT BAG. This Bag is composed of waves of steel beads on a brown ground ; it is commenced at top, and finished by taking in at the bottom of the Bag. Finish it with steel tassels, one at each side and one at bottom, and a steel cord made of beads to draw it at top. Six hanks of extra coarse purse twist, and two dozen rows of beads are required ; 5 wires of No. 17. Thread the beads on the silk before working. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 127 Cast on 144 stitches, being 12 patterns, that is, 36 on each of the 4 wires, and work with the fifth. 1st Round, pearl before working the stitch, pass a bead quite close up to the last loop on the wire ; this must be done every stitch. 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, as first. 4th Round, plain. 5th Round, as first. 6th Round, plain. 7th Round, as first. 8th Round, plain. 9th Round, A, P4, O, P, O, P4; repeat all round. 10th Round, plain,* ali but one stitch. * Plain all but one stitch. That stitch is the last one that is on the last wire of this round; it is lifted from off that wire, without being worked, on to the next or first wire of the 9th round, as it is required on it to work the A at the beginning of that round, as will be seen by working. 128 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. 11th Round, A, P4, O, P, O, P4; repeat all round.+ 12th Round, as 8th, all but one stitch. Repeat as the 4 last rounds 4 more times, in all 20 rounds, after the bead part; then 29th Round, as first. 30th Round, plain. 31st Round, as first. 32nd Round, plain. 33rd Round, as first. 34th Round, plain. 35th Round, as first. 36th Round, plain. Repeat from 9th round 3 more times; then commence to take in as follows :— 1st Round of intakes, T, P16, T ,P16; this finishes first wire ; the other 3 as this. t At the end of each wire you will have one stitch too many ; lift it on to the following wire, as it is required to work the A at the beginning of that wire ; the last wire will be quit correct. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 129 2nd Round, plain. 83rd Round of intakes, T, P15, T, P15; this finishes first wire; the other 3 as this. 4th Round, plain. 5th Round of intakes, T, P14, T, P14; this finishes first wire; the other 3 as this. 6th Round, plain. It must be taken-in in this way every other round until it is reduced to T, a P, oneach wire; then draw it up, as before described, with a needle; add the tassel, and make it up. XXXIII._PRETTY SHORT PURSE. The foregoing Receipt makes a very pretty Short Purse. Cast on 72 stitches in all ; and work with five wires. Three hanks second-sized silk, and 12 rows of beads are required ; finish with a steel snap and a tassel. Vou. IT. i 130 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. XXXIV.—KNIT EDGING FOR PETTICOATS, CUFFS, &c. &c. This is an improved version of No. 142 in the Appendix, Vol. I. For fine pur- poses, use Taylor’s cotton, No. 40, and wires No. 21; if it be required strong, use coarser cotton and larger wires. Cast on 7 stitches. lst Row, S; P2,0; T, 02;'T. 2nd Row, O, P2, *B, P2, O, T, P 8rd Row, 8, P2, O, T, P4 4th Row, P6, O, T, P Sth Row, 8, 22;-0, T, 0% T,O2-T. 6th Row, P2, *B, P2, *BoP2, O.-T, P: 7th Row, S, P2, O, T, P6. 8th Row, P8, O, T, P. 9th Row, S, P2, O, T, 02, T, 02, T, 02, T. * This B is worked on the second loop of the O2 of the row before. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 131 10th Row, P2, *B, P2, *B, P2, B, P2, O, T, P. llth Row, S, P2, O, T, P9. 12th Row, cast off all but 6 loops; work them thus, P38, O, T, P: Repeat from first row. XXXV.—KNIT LACE BORDER FOR BABY’S CAP, &c. &e, Work with Taylor's Persian Cotton No. 40, and wires No. 92,—Cast on 32 stitenes. Ist Row, S edge, P5, O, A, O, P5—O, Tr, P6, O, Tr, P6, edge P2. 2nd Row, S, P edge, BS, zr, B, O, B5, zr, B, O—B3, pr, O, B3, O, 7, B3, edge Lea 3rd Row, S edge, P2, T, 0, P5, O, Tr, P2—O, P2, Tr, P4; O, P2, Tr, P4, edge P2. 4th Row, 8, P edge, B3, zr, B3, O, B38, 7, B38, Oo—B, zr, O, B7, O, 1, B, edge Pi 5th Row, S edge, T,O, P3,0, A,0,P3, 0, Tr—O, P4, Tr, P2, O, P4, Tr, P2, edge P2. 6th Row, S, P edge, B, yr, BS, O, B, zr, BS, O—B2, O, 7, BS, ZT; O, B2, edge P. 7th Row, S edge, P3, O, T, P3, T, 0, P3—P6, T, O, P6, FESO). edge P2. 8th Row, S, P edge, 0, B, 1, BS, 0, B, 1, B5—B4, O, 3, B, 7, 0. Bs edge P. * This B is worked on the second loop of the 02 of the row before, 132 THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 9th Row, S edge, P5, O, A, O, P5—P4, T, P2, O, P4, T, P2, O, edge P2. - 10th Row, S, P edge, O, B3, 7, B3, 0, B3, 7, B3—B3, yr, O, B3, O, 7, B3, edge P. 11th Row, S edge, P2, T, 0, P5, O, Tr, P2Q—P2, T, P4, 0, P2, T, P4, O, edge P2. 12th Row, S, P edge, O, BS, 7, B, O, BS, 7, B—B,Tr, O, B7, O, 7, B, edge P. 13th Row, S edge, T, O, P3, O, A, O, P3, O, Tr—O, Tr, P6, O, Tr, P6, edge P2. 14th Row, S, P edge, B5, zr, B, O, B5, tr, B, O—B2, O, 7, B5, zr, O, B2, edge P. 15th Row, S edge, P3, O, Tr, P3, T, O, P3—O, P2, Tr, P4, O, P2, Tr, P4, edge P2. 16th Row, S, P edge, B3, pr, B3, O, B3, yr, B3, O—B4, O, 7, B, zr, O, B4, edge P. 17th Row, S edge, P5, O, A, O, P5B—O, P4, Tr, P2, O, P4, Tr, P2, - edge P2. 18th Row, 8, P edge, B, zr, BS, O, B, yr, B5, O—B3, zr, O, B3, O, 7, B3, edge P. 19th Row, S edge, P2, T,; O, P5, O, Tr, P2—P6, T, O, P6, T, O, edge P2. 20th Row, S, P edge, O, B, 7, B5, O, B, 7, B5—B, zr, O, B7, O, 7, B, edge P. 21st Row, 5 edge, T, O, P3,0, A,O, P3, O, Tr—P4, T, P2, O, P4, T, P2, O, edge P2. 22nd Row, S, P edge, O, B3, 7, B3, O, B3, 7, B3—B2, O, 7, B5, x7, O, B2, edge P. 23rd Row, S edge, P3, O, Tr, P3, T, O, P3B—P2, T, P4, O, P2, T, P4, O, edge P2. 24th Row, S, P edge, O, BS, 7, B, O, BS, 7, B—B4, O, 7, B, zr, O, B4, edge P THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 133 XXXVI.—KNIT LACE INSERTION. THE PATTERN IS AN OPEN DIAMOND. Cast on all your stitches at once. 48 stitches works about four inches, so you can reckon from that what you require. Use two wires No, 20, and cotton No. 80. tat Row; Onin P7, 1, 0, Fe 2nd Row, plain. 8rd Row, P, 0, Tr, P5, T, O, P2. 4th Row, plain. 5th Row, O, T, O, Tr, P3, T, O, TAOS. 6th Row, plain. 7th Row, P, O, T, O, Tr, P, T, 0, T, O, P2. 8th Row, plain. 9th Row, O, T, O, T—O, A, O, T, O, T, 9, P 10th Row, plain. 11th Row, T, 0, T, O, P3, O, T, O, T, P. 12th Row, plain. 134 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 13th Row, P—+0, T, 0, P5, O, T, O, *A; repeat from +O, thus. 14th Row, plain. 15th Row—P, +T, O, P7, O, T, P; repeat from +T, thus. 16th Row, plain. 17th Row, T—+O, P9, O, *A ; repeat from +O, thus. If the insertion would not be too wide for what is required, the pattern is im- proved by working a row of O, T, then a plain row, before commencing the diamonil pattern ; and the same again after the diamond is concluded. XXXVII.—VANDYKE EDGING, FOR PETTICOATS, COLLARS, CUFFS, &c. If for the body of the petticoat, it must be worked with cotton of No. 20, called Taylor’s Persian thread, and two wires of No. 20. If for the bottom, use No. 17 wires, and No. 3 Taylor’s Persian thread. Cast on 13 stitches. * You will perceive you have only two stitches at the very last of the row, so, therefore, you cannot A, but must consequently work T. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 135 Ist Row, *St—O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts—P, +M, P. 2nd Row, P3—pearl all the rest of the row. 3rd Row, {St—O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts—P, M, Ra, 4th Row, P4—pearl all the rest of the row. 5th Row, +Sr—O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts—P, M, P38. 6th Row, P5—pear!l all the rest of the row. 7th Row, {S1—O, Ts, 0, Ts, 0, Ts, O, Ts—P, M, P4. 8th Row, P6—pearl all the rest of the row. 9th Row, {Sr—O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts—P, M, P5. 10th Row, P7—pearl all the rest of the row. 11th Row, {Sr—O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts—P, M, P6. * This Sr is worked by slipping the first stitch, then working two plain stitches, and lifting the slipped one over the two knit ones. + This M is worked by first working the plain stitch as marked in the receipt, then, before taking the stitch off the left hand wire, working it again from the back part of the loop ; by this you make an extra stitch. + Observe, the slip stitch at the beginning of these rows must be taken from the row below, and is just the loop directly under the first stitch on the wire ; then work the two first on the wire plain, and lift it over the two. 136 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 12th Row, P8—pearl all the rest of the row. 13th Row, Sr—oO, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts—P, M P7. 14th Row, P9—pearl the rest of row all but one stitch; which leave on the wire un- worked, as it is slipped off unworked on the following row to work the Sr at the beginning of it. 15th Row, Sr—O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts—P8. 16th Row, P8—pearl the rest of row all but one stitch, the same as described in the 14th row—this occurs every alternate row. 17th Row, St—O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts—P7. 18th Row, P7—pearl the rest of row all but one stitch. 19th Row, Sr—O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts—P6. 20th Row, P6—pearl the rest of row all but one stitch. 2ist Row, St—O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts—P5. 22nd Row, P5—pearl the rest of row all but one stitch. 23rd Row, Sr—O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts—P4. 24th Row, P4—pearl the rest of row all but one stitch. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 137 25th Row, Sr—O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts—P3. 26th Row, P8—pearl all to the end. Repeat from the 3rd row. XXXVIII.—SCOLLOP KNITTING, IN IMITATION OF BRUSSELS LACE. Cast on 13 stitches. lst Row, S, P, *02, T, 02, T, 02, T, 02, T, 02, Ti: 2nd Row, S, T, B; work rest of the row P, B, to end. 8rd Row, P17. Ath Row, P17. 5th Row, Cast off all but 11 loops ; work them thus, P, 02, A, P, 04, A, P, 02, T. 6th Row, S, P, B, T, P: B, P, B; P; B, P, 5B, iif 7th Row, P13. 8th Row, P13. Repeat from beginning. You cannot see the design of this pattern until it is worked two or three times. * Observe 02 and O4 make stitches on the following rows, as 04, in the 5th row, make 4 stitches on the 6th row. Each time the thread is round the wire it makes a stitch. 158 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. XXXIX.—ROUND D’°OYLEY. This pattern is composed of a star of open work and a centre star of close work ; the ground plain, with a border of open work, Work with fine Dutch cotton, No 18, and wires No. 21. Begin at the centre. Cast on 2 stitches on each of the wires; knit with a fifth wire, a plain round, then begin the pattern. Ist Round, O, *P, all round. 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, O, *P2, all round. 4th Round, plain. 5th Round, O, *P3, all round. 6th Round, plain. * This star is only put here in case any one should wish to work this receipt for a purse, as after described, they have no reference to the D’Oyley at all. yO THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 139 7th Round, O, *P4, all round. Sth Round, plain. 9th Round, O, *P5, all round. 10th Round, plain. 11th Round, O, *P6, all round. 12th Round, plain. 13th Round, O, *P7, all round. 14th Round, plain. 15th Round, O, Tr, P6, all round. 16th Round, plain. 17th Round, O, P, O, Tr, *P5, all round. 18th Round, plain. 19th Round, 0, P3, O, Tr, *P4, all round. 20th Round, plain. 21st Round, 0, P2, O, Tr, P, 0, Tr, *P3, all round. * See note, tormer page. 140 THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 22nd Round, plain. 23rd Round, O, P2, O, Tr, O, Tr, P, O, Tr, *P2, all round. 24th Round, plain. 25th Round, O, P2, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, P, O, Tr, *P, all round. 26th Round, plain. 27th Round, O, P2, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, P, O, Tr, all round. 28th Round, plain. 29th Round, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, 0, Tr, O, Tr, 0, Te, P: 30th Round, plain, ‘a one stitch more tives the round, in order to change the slope of the holes. w) 32nd Round, plain, and one stitch more. 33rd Round, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, 0, Tr, P, O, P5, all round. 34th Round, plain, and one stitch more. 35th Round, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, P7, all round. * See note, page 133. 31st Round, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, P3, all round. 36th 37th 38th 39th 40th 41st THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 141 Round, plain, and one stitch more. Round, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, P, O, P9, all round. Round, plain, and one stitch more. Round, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, P11, all round. Round, plain, and one stitch more. Round, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, P, O, P13, all round. 42nd Round, plain, and one stitch more. 43rd 44th 45th 46th 47th 48th 49th 50th 51st Round, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, P15, all round. Round, plain, and one stitch more, Round. O, Tr, O, Tr, P, O, P17, all round. Round, plain, and one stitch more. Round, O, Tr, O, Tr, O, P19, all round. Round, plain, and one stitch more. Round, O, Tr, P, O, P21, all round. Round, plain, and one stitch more. Round, O, Tr, O, P23, all round. 142 52nd Round, 53rd Round, 54th Round, 55th Round, 56th Round, 57th Round, 58th Round, 59th Round, 60th Round, 61st Round, 62nd Round, 63rd Round, 64th Round, 65th Round, + This O, P, must not be repeated during the round. THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. plain, and one stitch more, O, P, O, P25, all round. plain, and one stitch more. T, O, P26, all round. plain, and one stitch more. pearl. pearl. Tr, O, all round. This commences the border. Tr, O, all round. Tr, O, all round. Tr, O, all round. Tr, O, all round. tOoP, O; 'T,O.28, all round. O, T, all round. is only done once at the beginning of the row, to change the slope of the hoes, anda THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 143 66th Round, O, T, all round. 67th Round, O, T, all round. 68th Round, pearl. 69th Round, pearl. 70th Round, plain. Finish round the edge with a fringe.—Cast it off very loosely. XL.—D’OYLEY RECEIPT—FOR A ROUND BAG WITH A CLASP. The foregoing D’Oyley receipt looks well for a bag, worked with the second sized purse twist, and No. 20 wires ; the inner star worked all in gold or steel beads, and the border done with the same. XLI.—D’OYLEY RECEIPT—FOR A ROUND PURSE. Work with extra fine silk, and No. 22 wires, and small beads; the beads are threaded on before commencing. Slip a bead down before working each plain stitch of 144 the inner star; those stitches that are worked with beads are marked with a star, and at the border before every Tr in that part. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. XLII.—D’OYLEY RECEIPT—FOR A TOILET PIN CUSHION. Work it with No. 30 Taylor’s Persian thread, and No. 20 wires. This Cushion should be lined with coloured silk. XLIII.—D’OYLEY RECEIPT—FOR A PEN WIPER. The D’Oyley receipt forms also a handsome Pen-Wiper, when worked with fine purse silk, and wires No. 22. XLIV.—VERY PRETTY FEATHER, OR LEAF PATTERN. | USEFUL FOR STOCKINGS, PURSES, CUFFS, &c. Cast on 9 stitches for each pattern. Ist Round, P, 0, P, O, Pd, T. 2nd Round, P8, T 3rd 4th 5th 6th 7th 8th 9th 10th llth THE LADY § WORK BOOK. 145 Round, P2, O, P, O, P4, T. Round, P8, T. Round, P38, O, P, 0, P38, T. Round, P8, T. Round, P4, O, P, O, P2, T. Round, P8, T. Round, P5,'0; P; 0; Bi Round, P8, T. Round, P6, O, P, O, T. 12th Round, P8, T. Ist XLV.—ANOTHER LEAF PATTERN. 7 stitches in each pattern. Round, O, Ts, P5. 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, O, P, Ts, P4. Von, Ul. K SSE — —— ‘ or 146 THR LADY'S WORK BOOK, 4th Round, plain. 5th Round, O, P2, Ts, P38. 6th Round, plain. 7th Round, O, P3, Ts, P2. 8th Round, plain. 9th Round, O, P4, Ts, P. 10th Round, plain. 11th Round, O, P5, Ts. 12th Round, plain. XLVI.—SIMPLE LITTLE STITCH. 5 stitches in each patiern. 1st Round, O, T, P, B2. 2nd Round, P3, B2; repeat. 3rd Round, P, O, T, B2. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 147 Ath Round, P3, B2; repeat. 5th Round, P3, B2 ; repeat. 6th Round, P3, B2; repeat. XLVII.—SIMPLE FOR PURSE, &c. &c. 25 stitches in each pattern. Yet: Round, P, T, T, T, T, 0, P; OF eee GP, 0; PO, Sr Ey aed. 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, plain. 4th Round, plain. XLVIII._PRETTY SIMPLE STITCH IN SLANTING STRIPE. 8 stitches in each pattern. Ist. Round, 0; T,-P3, 0, T, P. 2nd Round, plain, and one more stitch than the round. 148 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. XLIX.—KIND OF FEATHER, OR SHELL. 24 stitches in each pattern. Ist Round, P, O, P4, T, P6, T, P4, O, P, T, i 2nd Round, P2, O, P4, T, P4, T, P4, O, P3, O, P2. 3rd Round, P3, O, P4, T, P2, T, P4, O, P3, 7, OFT: 4th Round, P4, O, P4, T, T, P4, O, P5, O, Pa. L.—ANOTHER OPEN PATTERN. 10 stitches in each pattern, Ist Round, A, P3, 0, P, O, P3. 2nd Round, plain. — Repeat these two rounds 5 more times. 13th Round, pearl. 14th Round, plain. 15th Round, pearl. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 149 Repeat the 14th and 15th rounds two more times, then repeat from the first round. LI.—PRETTY SORT OF LYRE PATTERN, SOMETHING LIKE RECEIPT XXXIX,. VOL. I. 16 stitches in each pattern. 1st Round, B3, T, P7, B3, O, P, O. 2nd Round, B3, T, P6, B3, P3. 8rd Round, B3, T, P5, B3, P, O, P; 0, P: 4th Round, B3, T, P4, B3, P5. 5th Round, B3, T, P3, B3, P2, O, P, O, P2: 6th Round, B3, T, P2, B3, P7. "th Round, B3, T, P, B3, P3, O, P, 0, P3. 8th Round, B3, T, B3, P9. 9th Round, B3, 0, P, 0, B38, T, P7. 10th Round, B3, P3, B3, T, P6. 150 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 11th Round, B3, P, O, P, O, P, B3, T, P5. 12th Round, B3, P5, B3, T, P4. 13th Round, B3, P2, O, P, O, P2, B3, T, P3. 14th Round, B3, P'7, B3, T, P2. 15th Round, B3, P3, O, P, O, P3, B3, T, P. 16th Round, B3, P9, B3, T. LIL—SLANTING OPEN PATTERN, 3 stitches in each pattern. 1st Round, O, T, P. 2nd Round, plain, and one stitch more. LIII.—DICED PATTERN. 12 stitches in each pattern. Ist Round, P6, B6; repeat all round, and 5 more rounds 7th Round, B6, P6; repeat all round, and 5 more rounds. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. LIV.—VERY PRETTY. 6 stitches in each pattern. 1st Round, O, T, P4-. 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, O, P, O, T, P, T: 4th Round, plain. 5th Round, P4, O, T. 6th Round, plain, and one sviten more. LV.—ANOTHER VERSION, CLOSER THAN THE LAST 6 stitches in each pattern. Ist Round, O, T, P4. 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, O, P, O, T, P, T. 4th Round, plain. 151 152 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 5th Round, plain. 6th Round, P4, O, T. 7th Round, plain. 8th Round, plain, and one stitch more. LVI.—VERY PRETTY. 6 stitches in each pattern Ist Round, 0, P, O, T, Pot 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, O, P3, 0, A 4th Round, plain, 1 stiteh more. 5th Round, O, A, O, P3. 6th Round, plain, 1 stitch more. 7th Round, O, P, O, T, P, T. 8th Round, plain, 1 stitch more. 9th Round, O, P, O, T, P, T. THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 153 10th Round, plain, 1 stitch more. llth Round, 0, P, 0, T, P, T 12th Round, plain, 1 stitch more. LVII.—_VERY PRETTY STRIPE OF SPIDER NET, AND OPEN STITCH ON EACH SIDE. 24 stitches in each pattern. Ist Round, P2, O, T, P3, 0, T, 6; Tt, OG, T, *T, O, T, 0, T, O, Pd, 0, T: 2nd Round, plain. 8rd Round, P, T, O, P3, T, 0, T, O, T, O, P, O, T, 0, T, O; PS, TGP? 4th Round, plain. 5th Round, P2, O, T, P, T, O, T, O, T, O, P3, 0, T, OSTeOFE Pe Ot: 6th Round, plain. 7th Round, By iPS O, P; Ale O, as 0, te O, P5, ip dk O, gts O, fe Al 0, is * This T, T, is formed into an A, by first working T, then the other T, and lifting the first T over the second. 154 8th Round, plain. 9th Round, P2, 0, T, P, O, T,0, T, O, T, P, O, T, P2, 0, T, O, T, O, T, O; T. 10th Round, plain. 11th Round, P, T, O, P3, O, T, O, T, O, T, P2, T, O, T, O, T, O, P, T, O, P. 12th Round, plain. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. LVIII._VERY PRETTY SLANTING OPEN STITCH, 8 stitches in each pattern. Ist Round, O, P, O, P2, A, P2. 2nd Round, plain. érd Round, O, P3, O, P, A, P. 4th Round, plain. 5th Round, O, A, O, P5. 6th Round, plain. 7th Round, O, P5, O, A. 8th Round, plain. THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 155 LIX.—SLANTING STRIPE. 4 stitches in each pattern. 1st Round, T, P2, O. 2nd Round, plain, 1 stitch more. LX.—SIMPLE FEATHER. lst Round, -T, T; 0; P,.0, P/OFEA@ae, Ly: 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, plain. 4th Round, plain. LXI.—SORT OF FEATHER. 17 stitches in each pattern. Ist Round, L4,* O, P, O, P, O, P, O, P, 0, P, O, P, O, P.O, L4.* * These L4 are worked by lifting first the second, then the third, next the fourth, and lastly, the fifth loop over the first. Then work the first; by this means you take in four stitches. 156 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, plain. 4th Round, plain. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK, LXII.—MIGNIONETTE, 4 stitches in each pattern. 1st Round, T, O, P2. 2nd Round, T, O, P2. 3rd Round, plain. 4th Round, plain. 5th Round, P2, O, T. 6th Round, P2, O, T 7th Round, plain. 8th Round, plain. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 157 LXIII.—VERY PRETTY LITTLE OPEN LEAF SLANTING STRIPE, WITH AN OPEN STITCH BETWEEN DIVIDING THE STRIPES. 11 stitches in each pattern. test Round, T; P6,'0, P, O,:Pe 2nd Round, T, P9, B. 3rd Round, T, P5,0, P, O, P2, B. 4th Round, T, P9, B. 5th Round, T, P4, O, P, 0, P3, B. 6th Round, T, P9, B. 7th Round, T, P3, O, P, O, P4, B. 8th Round, T, P9, B. LXIV.—SORT OF FEATHER, WITH STRIPE BETWEEN, 12 stitches in each pattern. Ist Round, P, 0, P, 0, P, 0, P, 0, P, 0, P, 0, P, 0, P, 0, P, BisP;:B; 2nd Round, T, P13, T, B, P, B. 158 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 3rd Round, T, P11, T, B, P, B. 4th Round, T, P9, T, B, P, B. oth Round, T, P7, T, B, P, B. LXV.—VERY PRETTY SMALL PATTERN STRIPE. 4 stitches for each pattern. 1st Round, T, 2nd Round, P, LXVI.—PRETTY SMALL PATTERN DIAMOND OF FOUR HOLES. 6 stitches in each pattern. Ist Round, P3, T, O, P. 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, P2, T, O, T, O. 4th Round, plain. 5th Round, P3, T, O, P. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 159 6th Round, plain. 7th Round, T, O, P4. 8th Round, plain. LXVIL—VANDYKE OF THREE HOLES. 10 stitches in each pattern. Ist Round, P, 0, Ts, 0, Ts, O, Ts, P3. 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, P2, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, P%. 4th Round, plain. 5th Round, P38, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, P. 6th Round, plain. 7th Round, P4, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts. 8th Round, plain. Sth Round, P2; T, 0, T, 0, T, 0, P2. 160 THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 10th Round, plain. 11th Round, P, T, O, T, 0, T, O, P3. 12th Round, plain. 13th Round, T, O, T, O, T, O, P4. 14th Round, plain. LXVIII.—VANDYKE OF TWO HOLES. 8 stitches in each pattern. 1st Round, P3, O, T, O, T, P. 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, P2, O, T, O, T, P2. 4th Round, plain. 5th Round, P, O, T, O, T, P3. 6th Round, plain. 7th Round, T, O, T, O, P4. 8th Round, plain. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 9th Round, P2, O, T, O, T, P2. 10th Round, plain. llth Round, P3, O, T, O, T, P. 12th Round, plain. 18th Round, P4, O, T, O, T. 14th Round, plain. LXIX.—OPEN STITCH. ist Round, plain. 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, O, T. 4th Round, O, T. 5th Round, plain. 6th Round, plain. 7th Round, O2,* T. Von. IL. * This O2 is only worked as one stitch in the following row. 161 162 THR LADY’S WORK BOOK. 8th Round, plain. 9th Round, plain. 10th Round, O, T. 11th Round, O, T. 12th Round, plain. 13th Round, plain. LXX.—VERY PRETTY, SOMETHING LIKE SPIDER NET. 6 stitches im eacn pattern. 1st Round, P, T, O, P, O, T. 2nd Round, *P2—tO, P38, O, A; repeat from +O, thus. * P2 is only worked at the beginning of this round, as you require them to finish the A at the end of the round; for at the last of this round you will perceive there is only one stitch, so, consequently, the other-two must be taken to finish it. It would be more convenient for the worker to work the two stitches on to the last pin of the first round, as they would then be on the last wire to conclude the second round with. At the end of each wire you will be deficient two stitches; take them from off the fol- lowing wire. 1} @ibenaeaseets st >; se: i aera THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 163 3rd Round, plain. 4th Round, O, T, P, T, O, P. 5th Round, P, O, A, O, P2. 6th Round, plain ;+ one stitch less than the round. LXXI.—VERY PRETTY FEATHER. 23 stitches in each pattern. 1st Round, J, J, L> L> 9% P.O, P, 9, P, GO. P.O: P.O, 8, 0.2, 0 7.75 5° 1: 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, plain. 4th Round, plain. 5th Round, plain. + This one stitch less is the last stitch on the last wire of the plain round, and is not worked, but lifted from it on to the first wire of the following round, so as to make the pattern work in properly ; on the following round succeeding this plain round, you will have at the end of each wire a stitch over, which lift on to the following wire, as it is required on it. 164 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. LXXIL.—PRETTY STRAIGHT SHELL PATTERN, WITH AN OPEN HEM BETWEEN. 12 stitches in each pattern. 1st Round, 0, P3, A, P3, O, T, O, P. 2nd Round, P, O, P2, A, P2, O, P2, O, T. 3rd Round, P2, O, P, A, P, O, P2, T, O, P. 4th Round, P3, O, A, O, P4, O, T. LXXIII.—DIAMOND OF PLAIN WORK, SURROUNDED BY A WAVE OF OPEN WORK. 20 stitches in each pattern. Ist Round, P, 0, P17, T. 2nd Round, P, O, P, T, O, P14, T. 3rd Round, P2, O, P16, T. 4th Round, P38, O, P, O, Tr, P12, T. 5th Round, P, O, T, P, O, P14, T. 6th Round, P5, O, P, T, O, P10, T. 7th Round, P, T, O, P3, O, P12, T. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 165 8th Round, P7, 0, P, O, Tr, P8, T- 9th Round, P, O, Tr, P5, O, P10, T. 10th Round, P9, O, P, T, O, P6, T. 11th Round, P, T, 0, P7, O, P8, T. 12th Round, P11, 0, P, 0, Tr, P4, T. 13th Round, P, O, Tr, P9, O, P6, T. 14th Round, P13, O, P, T, O, P2, T. 15th Round, P, T, O, P11, O, P4, T. 16th Round, P15, O, P, O, Tr, T. 17th Round, P, 0, Tr, P13, O, P2, T. 18th Round, P17, O, P, T. 19th Round, *P14, O, Tr, P, O, P, Tr. 20th Round, *P16, O, P2, Tr. * Before commencing each round, work one stitch off from the beginning of the left hand wire on to the wire you have just concluded the round before on, as it is required to Tr with at the end of the wire, You will be deficient a stitch at the end of the first and second wires; to make up for which, take one of the following wires in order to work the Tr. This requires to be done every round during the other half of pattern, commencing at the 19th, and continuing till the 35th. 166 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 2ist Round, *P12, T, O, P, O, 22nd Round, *P14, O, P, T, O, P 28rd Round, *P10, O, Tr, P, O, P ct r. 24th Round, *P 12, O, P38, O, T, P Tr. 25th Round, *P8, T, O-PS Ore i. 26th Round, *P10, O, P5, T, O, P, Tr. 27th Round, *P6, O, Tr, P, O, P9, Tr. 28th Round, *P8, O, P7, O, Tr, P, Tr. 29th Round, *P4, T, O, P, O, P11, Tr. 30th Round, *P6, O, P9, T, O, P, Tr. 3lst Round, *P2, O, Tr, P, O, P13, Tr. 32nd Round, *P4, O, P11, O, Tr, P, Tr. 33rd Round, *T, O, P, O, P15, Tr. 34th Round, *P2, O, P13, T, O, P, Tr. 85th Round, *P, O, P17, Tr. Repeat from first round. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 167 LXXIV.—KIND OF LONG LOZENGE PATTERN, SURROUNDED BY OPEN WORK. 6 stitches in each pattern. 1st Round, P, T, O, P, O, T. 2nd Round, plain. 8rd Round, P, T, O, P, O, T. 4th Round, plain,* and work 2 stitches more. 5th Round, O, P3, O, A.t 6th Round, plain. wus, Round,-O;: Ts by Ty Ob 8th Round, plain. % The 2 more stitches are worked after the plain round is completed, and are worked from off the following wire, in order that the 5th round may come in properly. +. At the end of the two first wires in this round, you will be deficient a stitch, in consequence of having taken the two stitches from the beginning of the first wire, to supply the plain round; but the last wire on this will be quite right. 168 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 9th Round, O, T, P, T, O, P. 10th Round, plain. 11th Round, O, T, P, T, O, P. 12th Round, plain. 18th Round, P, O, A, O, P2. 14th Round, plain. 15th Round, T, O, P, O, T, P. 16th Round, plain. 17th Round, T, O, P, O, T, P. 18th Kound, plain, all but 1 stitch.* * This stitch is left unworked, in order that the pattern may commence again, by repeating from the third round. Lift the stitch on to the following wire You will have one stitch over on the first and second wires ; lift it on to the following wire ; the third wire you will find quite right, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. LXXV.—VERY PRETTY OPEN STITCH, WITH A HALF TWIST RUNNING UP THE SIDE. 17 stitches in each pattern. Ist Round, T, P, O, P, O, P, 0; Pj 0; P,:T, 0, T, *P2, P2, O, T. 2nd Round, T, P7, T, P8. 3rd Round, P9, O, T, P4, O, T. 4th, Round; T3:P,.0;,P,. 0; PP; ORBeOers TPs: 5th Round, T, P7, T, O, T, P4, O, T. 6th Round, P9, P8. LXXVL—VERY PRETTY KIND OF ROUND SPIDER NET. 6 stitches in each pattern. 1st Round, P, T, O, P, O, T. * Slip two loops on to an extra wire, and work the next two stitches plain ; then work the stitches that are on the extra pin ; this makes the twist. 169 two 170 THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 2nd Round, *P2, O, P3, O, A. ord Round, O, T, P, T, O, P. 4th Round, O, T, P, T, O, P. 5th Round, O, T, P, T, O, P. 6th Round, P, O, A, O, P2. At the end of this round, instead of P2, work P,— and lift the last loop on to the following wire, so as the pattern may repeat properly from the first round. LXXVII.—VERY STRONG LITTLE OPEN STITCH. 2 stitches in each pattern. 1st Round, T, all the round. 2nd Round, O2, P, all the round. 3rd Round, P, B, P, all the round. 4th Round, P, T, P, T, all the round. * This is not repeated during the round, as it belongs to the A, at the end of the round. You will be deficient 2 stitches at the end of each wire ; they must be worked from off the following wires. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 171 LXXVIIIL.—TWISTED PATTERN, WITH A ROW OF OPEN STITCH BETWEEN. (VERY PRETTY.) 18 stitches in each pattern. 1st Round, T, 0, T, B3, *P4, P4, B3. 2nd Round, P, O, P2, B3, P8, De 8rd Round, T, O, T, B3, P8, B3. Ath Round, P, O, P2, B3, P8, B3. Repeat as 3rd and 4th rounds four more times; then commence from Ist round again. LXXIX.—KIND OF WAVE RUNNING ACROSS. (VERY PRETTY FOR A PURSE.) 9 stitches in each pattern. 1st Round, B2, O, T, P3, T, O. 2nd Round, B2, P7. * P4, lift the four stitches on to an extra wire; leave them there until you have worked the next four stitches, then work those that are on the extra wire. This is to make the twist. 172 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Srashound,-b2,.P O; T, Py 50; .P 4th Round, B2, P7. 5th Round, B2, P2, O, A, O, P2. 6th Round, B2, P7. LXXX.—NARROW STRIPE OF SLANTING HOLES. 5 stitches in each pattern. Ist Round, B2, O, T, P. ; 2nd Round, B2, P38. 3rd Round, B2, P, O, T. 4th Round, B2, P3. LXXXI.—BEAUTIFUL PATTERN. 7 stitches in each pattern. Ist Round, O, P, T, P4. 2nd Round, O, P2, T, P3. THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 173 8rd Round, O, P Ath Round, O, P: 5th Round, O, P 6th Round, P2, T, Pp 7th Round, P, T, P2, 8th Round, T, P3, O, P2, 9th Round, +P4, O, P, T. 10th Round, O, P5, T. LXXXII.—_VERY PRETTY VANDYKE OF SPIDER NET, WITH A ROW OF OPEN HOLES ON EACH SIDE. THIS PATTERN RUNS ALONG THE WORK. Cast on 18 stitches. Hetphounds Py) T O2Py 0; TAP: 2nd Round, P6, T, O, P3, O, T, P5. 8rd Round, P5, T, O, P5, O, T, P4. + At the beginning of 9th round, knit one plain before commencing pattern. 174 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 4th Round, P4, Tr, O, P, T, 0, P, O, TPO; Lats 5th Round, P3, Tr, O, P, T, 9, P3, O, T, P, 0, T, P2. 6th Round, P2, T, O, P11, 0, T, P. 7th Round, P, T, O, P, T, 0, P, 0, © Pp. 'T, 0, PeOsas®s O,T: 8th Round, *P2,{0, P, T, 0, P3, 0, A, 0, P3, 0, T, P, O, A, repeat from +0. 9th Round, plain. 10th Round, T, 0, P, O, T, P, T, 0, P, O, T, P, T, O; P; 0, T, ig 11th Round, +P, ¢0, P38, O, A, 0, P3, 0, A, 9, P3, O, A; repeat from tO. 12th Round, plain. 13th Round, O, T, P, T, 0, P, T, GP, O, Taz, is es 4s O,FP: In repeating this for the last time, on the last wire, do not work the * At the beginning of this round, the P2 must be worked on to the last wire of the 7th round before the 8th round is commenced, as they are required at the end of the 8th round to work the A. + After having worked this P, lift it on to the last wire you have just concluded the 10th round with, as it is required at the end of the 11th round to finish the A, but is not to be repeated during the work- ing of the 11th round. You will be deficient a stitch at the end of each of the two wires, to work the A with, in consequence of lifting off this one, therefore take it from off the following wire; the last wire will be quite right. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 175 P with the star, but lift it on to the wire following, which is the first wire of the 14th round ; as it is required there to work the pattern in properly. 14th Round, P2, 0, A, O, P T, O, P3, 0, Ts, P, O, A, O, P; at the end of the dives. and second wires you will have a stitch more than the pattern, lift it on to the following wire, as it is required there to commence the pattern again. 15th Round, P5, T, O, P5, O, Ts, P4. 16th Round, P, T, 0, P, T, 0, P7, 0, Ts, P, O, T; at the end of this round, lift the T just worked on to the wire you are going to commence the 17th round with, as it must make the first loop to ‘hen the A at the begin- ning of that round. 17th Round, A, 0, P, T, 0, P9, O, Ts, P, O; at the end of the first and second wires, during this round, you will find a stitch too many for the pattern, lift it on to the following wire, as it is required there to commence the pattern again. 176 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 18th Round, P2, T, O, P11, O, T, P. 19th Round, P, T, O, P13, O, T; at the end of this round, lift the last T worked on to the wire you are going to commence the next round with, as it is required to work the A at the beginning of the round. 20th Round, A, O, P15, O. LXXXIII.—VERY PRETTY OPEN PATTERN. A PRETTY WREATH AND ROW OF VANDYKES OF 5 HOLES RUNNING UP THE WORK. Cast on 33 stitches. 1st Round, P2, T, 0, P, O, Ts, 0, Ts, P9, O, Ts, O Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, P5; repeat. 2nd Round, P, T, O, P3, O, Ts, O, Ts, P9, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, P4; repeat. 3rd Round, T, O, T, P, T, O, Ts, O, Ts, P9, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, P3 ; repeat. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 177 4th Round, P2, 0, P3, O, P, O, Ts, O, Ts, P9, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O: Ts; Oy Ta P2; repeat. 5th Round, P38, O, A, O, P3, O, Ts, O, Ts, P9, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, O, Ts, P ; repeat. 6th Round, P7, T, O, T, 0, P, 0, T, P6, T,-0, T, O, T, O, T; 0, T, 0, Ps; repeat. 7th Round, P6, T, O, T, O, P38, O, Ts, Pa T. 0; TO, FLU, Ty 0,250; P4; repeat. 8th Round, P5, T, O, T, O, T, BT? Ts, P2, T, 0; Tt; On tO by Os, > P5 ; repeat. Oth Round, P4, T, O, T, O, P,.0;-P3,0,.P3,. T; O, TiO; D0. bc O: TS Os PC; repeat. 10th Round, P3, T, O, T, O, P3, O, A, 0, P38, T,.0,°T;,O, POs; TO, P75 repeat. Vou. IL. M 178 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. TWENTY VERY PRETTY D’°OYLEYS. Each D’oyley is of a different pattern, and is much finer and varied from those in the first Volume. They are trimmed with fringe, the receipt for which follows next after the D’oyleys. Every D’oyley has 18 plain rows before commencing the pat- tern; and at the edge, for the side border, 9 plain stitches on each side. When the D’oyley is large enough, work 18 plain rows, and cast it off. Each D’oyley should be as near square as possible. Two wires No. 21, and about half an ounce of Dutch cotton No. 10, is required for each. Cast on 82 stitches for each D’oyley. LXXXIV.—1st D'oyley. Work 18 plain rows. 19th Row, P9 edge—P6, B2, repeat ; edge P9, 20th Row, P9 edge—P3, B4, P, repeat ; edge P9. 21st Row, P9 edge—B2, P2, B2, P2, repeat; edge P9, 22nd Row, P9 edge—B3, P4, B, repeat ; edge P9, 23rd Row, P9 edge—P2, B2, P4, repeat ; edge P9. - = - SS SS THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 179 24th Row, P9 edge—B3, P4, B, repeat ; edge P9. 25th Row, P9 edge—B2, P2, B2, P2, repeat; edge P9. 26th Row, P9 edge—P3, B4, P, repeat ; edge P9, Repeat from 19th row, until the D’oyley is large enough ; then 18 rows plain. Cast it off. LXXXV.—2nd D’oyley. 19th Row, P9 edge—P4, B, P3, repeat ; edge P9. 20th Row, P9 edge—B3, P, B4, repeat ; edge P9. 21st Row, P9 edge—P3, B3, P2, repeat ; edge P9. 22nd Row, P9 edge—B2, P38, B3, repeat ; edge P9. 23rd Row, P9 edge—P2, B5, P, repeat ; edge P9. 24th Row, P9 edge—B, P5, B2, repeat ; edge P9. 25th Row, P9 edge—P, B7, repeat ; edge P9. 26th Row, P9 edge—P7, B, repeat ; edge P9. 27th Row, P9 edge—P2, B5, P, repeat ; edgo P9. 28th Row, P9 edge—B, P5, B2, repeat ; edge P9. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 29th Row, P9 edge—P3, B3, P2, repeat ; 30th Row, P9 edge—B2, P3, B3, repeat ; 3lst Row, P3 edge—P4, B, P3, repeat; 32nd Row, P9 edge—B3, P, B4, repeat ; 33rd Row, P9 edge—B, P7, repeat ; 34th Row, P9 edge—B7, P, repeat ; 35th Row, P9 edge—B2, P5, B, repeat ; 36th Row, P9 edge—P, B5, P2, repeat; 37th Row, P9 edge—B3, P3, B2, repeat; 38th Row, P9 edge—P2, B3, P3 repeat ; 39th Row, P9 edge—B4, P, B3, repeat ; 40th Row, P9 edge—P3, B, P4, repeat ; 41st Row, P9 edge—B3, P3, B2, repeat ; 42nd Row, P9 edge—P2, B3, P3, repeat ; 43rd Row, P9 edge—B2, P5, B, repeat ; 44th Row, P9 edge—P, B5, P2, repeat ; edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 45th Row, P9 edge—B, P7, repeat ; 46th Row, P9 edge—B7, P, repeat ; Repeat from 19th row, &e. LXXXVI.—3rd D’oyley. 19th Row, P9 edge—P4, B, P3, repeat ; 20th Row, P9 edge—B2, P38, B3, repeat ; 21st Row, P9 edge—P2, Bd, P, repeat ; 22nd Row, P9 edge—P7, B, repeat ; 23rd Row, P9 edge—P2, B5, P, repeat ; 24th Row, P9 edge—B2, P3, B3, repeat ; Repeat from 19th row, &e. LXXXVII,—4th D’oyley. 19th Row, P9 edge—P2, B2, P2, B2, repeat ; 20th Row, P9 edge—P2, B2, P2, B2, repeat ; 21st Row, P9 edge—P4, B2, P2, repeat ; 22nd Row, P9 edge—B2, P2, B4, repeat ; Repeat from 19th row, &c. edge P9, edge P9, edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. 181 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. LXXXVIII.—5th D’oyley. 19th Row, P9 edge—P6, B2, repeat ; edge P9. 20th Row, P9 edge—P3, B4, P, repeat ; edge P9. 2ist Row, P9 edge—B2, P2, B2, P2, repeat; edge P9. 22nd Row, P9 edge—B3, P4, B, repeat ; edge P9. 23rd Row, P9 edge—P2, B2, PA, repeat ; edge P9. 24th Row, P9 edge—B3, P5, repeat ; edge P9. 25th Row, P9 edge—B2, P2, B2, P2, repeat ; edge P9. 26th Row, P9 edge—P3, B4, P, repeat ; edge P9. Repeat the above once more. 27th Row, P9 edge—P2, B2, P2, B2, repeat ; edge P9. 28th Row, P9 edge—P, B2, P2, B2, P, repeat ; edge P9. 29th Row, P9 edge—B2, P2, B2, P2, repeat; edge P9. 30th Row, P9 edge—B, P2, B2, P2, B, repeat; edge P9. Repeat this last part 2 more times; then repeat from 19th row, &e. 19th 20th 21st THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. LXXXIX.—6th D'oyley. Cast on for this 78 stitches only, Row, P9 edge—P, B, P, B, P11, repeat ; Row, P9 edge—B10, P, B, P, B2, repeat ; Row, P9 edge—P, B, P, B, P11, repeat ; 22nd Row, P9 edge—B10, P, B, P, B2, repeat ; 23rd 24th 25th 26th 27th 28th Row, P9 edge—P, B, P, B, P5, B3, P38, repeat ; Row, P9 edge—B3, P3, B4, P, B, P, B2, repeat ; Row, P9 edge—P, B, P, B, P2, B3, P3, B3, repeat ; Row, P9 edge—P3, B3, P3, B, P, B, P, B2, repeat; Row, P9 edge—P, B, P, B, P5, B3, P3, repeat ; Row, P9 edge—B3, P3, B4, P, B, P, B2, repeat ; Repeat from 19th row, &ec. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. 183 THE LADY'S WORK B00K. XC.—7Jth D’oyley. 19th Row, P9 edge—B3, P, repeat; edge P9. 20th Row, P9 edge—B, P3, repeat; edge P9. 21st Row, P9 edge—plain ; edge P9. 22nd Row, P9 edge—pearl ; edge P9. Repeat from 19th row, &e. XCI.—8th D’oyley. 19th Row, P9 edge—B4, P4, repeat ; edge P9. 20th Row, P9 edge—B4, P4, repeat; edge P9. 21st Row, P9 edge—B4, P4, repeat; edge P9. 22nd Row, P9 edge—B4, P4, repeat; edge P9. 23rd Row, P9 edge—P4, B4, repeat ; edge P9. 24th Row, P9 edge—P4, B4, repeat ; edge P9. 25th Row, P9 edge—P4, B4, repeat ; edge P9. 26th Row, P9 edge—P4, B4, repeat; edge P9. Repeat from 19th row, &e. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. XCII.—9th D’oyley. 19th Row, P9 edge—P3, B3, repeat ; edge P9. 20th Row, P9 edge—B, P3, B2, repeat; edge P9. 21st Row, P9 edge—P, B3, P2 repeat ; edge P9. 22nd Row, P9 edge—B3, P3, repeat; edge P9. 23rd Row, P9 edge—P, BS, P2, repeat ; edge P9. 24th Row, P9 edge—B, P38, B2, repeat ; edge P9. Repeat from 19th row, &e. XCIII.—10th D’oyley. 19th Row, P9 edge—P4, B, P38, repeat ; edge P9 20th Row, P9 edge—B2, P38, B3, repeat ; edge P9. 21st Row, P9 edge—P2, B2, P, B2, P, repeat ; edge P9. 22nd Row, P9 edge—P3, B, P3, B, repeat ; edge P9. 23rd Row, P9 edge—P2, B2, P, B2, P, repeat ; edge P9. 24th Row, P9 edge—B2, P3, B3, repeat ; edge P9. Repeat from 19th row, &e. 186 THE LADY'S WORK ROOK, XCIV.—11th Doyley. 19th Row, P9 edge—B, P7, repeat ; 20th Row, P9 edge—P, B5, P2, repeat ; 21st Row, P9 edge—B3, P3, B2, repeat ; 22nd Row, P9 edge—P38, B, P4, repeat ; 23rd Row, P9 edge—P4, B, P3, repeat ; 24th Row, P9 edge—B2, P3, B3, repeat ; 25th Row, P9 edge—P2, B5, P, repeat ; 26th Row, P9 edge—P7, B, repeat ; Repeat from 19th row, &. XCV.—12th D’oyley. 19th Row, P9 edge—B3, P5, repeat ; 20th Row, P9 edge—B5, P3, repeat ; 21st Row, P9 edge—B4, P4, repeat ; 22nd Row, P9 edge—P, Bs, P4, repeat ; Repeat from 19th row, &e. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. ACVIL—13th D’oyley. cast on 84 sTITCHES. 19th Row, P9 edge—P2, B, P3, repeat ; 20th Row, P9 edge—B3, P, B2, repeat ; Qist Row, P9 edge—P, B3, P2, repeat ; 22nd Row, P9 edge—B2, P83, B, repeat ; 23rd Row, P9 edge—B2, P, B2, P, repeat ; 24th Row, P9 edge—B, P2, B, P2, repeat ; 25th Row, P9 edge—P, B3, P2, repeat ; 26th Row, P9 edge—B2, P4, repeat; 27th Row, P9 edge—P2, B, P3, repeat ; 28th Row, P9 edge—B3, P3, repeat ; 29th Row, P9 edge—P5, B, repeat ; 30th Row, P9 edge—P, B5, repeat ; 31st Row, P3 edge—B, P3, B2, repeat; 32nd Row, P9 edge—P2, B3, P, repeat ; edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. 187 188 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 33rd Row, P9 edge—B2, P, B2, P, repeat ; 34th Row, P9 edge—B, P2, B, P2, repeat ; 35th Row, P9 edge—B, P3, B2, repeat ; 36th Row, P9 edge—P2, B3, P, repeat ; 37th Row, P9 edge—P5, B, repeat ; 38th Row, P9 edge—P, B5, repeat ; Repeat from 19th row, &c. XCVII.—14th D’oyley. Cast on for this 84 stitches. 19th Row, P9 edge—B, P3, B, repeat ; 20th Row, P9 edge—B3, P2, repeat ; 21st Row, P9 edge—P, B2, P2, repeat; 22nd Row, P9 edge—B, P2, B2, repeat ; 23rd Row, P9 edge—P3, B2, repeat ; 24th Row, P9 edge—B, P2, B2, repeat ; edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 25th Row, P9 edge—P, B2, P2, repeat ; edge P9. 26th Row, P9 edge—B3, P2, repeat ; edge P9. Repeat from 19th row, &c. XCVIII.—15ihk D’oyley. Cast on for this 84 stitches. 19th Row, P9 edge—B3, P38, repeat ; edge P9. 20th Row, P9 edge—B3, P3, repeat ; edge P9. 2ist Row, P9 edge—B2, P3, B, repeat ; edge P9. 22nd Row, P9 edge—P, B3, P2, repeat; edge P9. 23rd Row, P9 edge—B, P3, B2, repeat ; edge P9. 24th Row, P9 edge—P2, B3, P, repeat ; edge P9. 25th Row, P9 edge—B2, P3, B, repeat ; edge P9. 26th Row, P9 edge—P, B3, P2, repeat; edge P9. 27th Row, P9 edge—B3, P3, repeat ; edge P9. 28th Row, P9 edge—B3, P3, repeat ; edge P9. 189 190 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 29th Row, P9 edge—P, B3, P2, repeat ; edge P9. 30th Row, P9 edge—B2, P3, B, repeat; edge P9. 31st Row, P9 edge—P2, B3, P, repeat ; edge P9. 32nd Row, P9 edge—B, P3, B2, repeat; edge P9. 38rd Row, P9 edge—P3, B3, repeat ; edge P9. 34th Row, P9 edge—P3, B3, repeat ; edge P9. 35th Row, P9 edge—P2, B3, P, repeat; edge P9. 36th Row, P9 edge—B, P38, B2, repeat; edge P9. 37th Row, P9 edge—P, B3, P2, repeat; edge P9. 38th Row, P9 edge—B2, P3, B, repeat ; edge P9. XCIX.—16th D’oyley. 19th Row, P9 edge—P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, repeat; edge P9. 20th Row, P9 edge—P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, repeat; edge P9. 21st Row, P9 edge—P2, B, P2, B2, P4, B2, P2, B, repeat ; 22nd Row, P9 edge—P, B2, P2, B4, P2, B2, P, B2, repeat ; edge P9. edge P9. 23rd 24th 25th 26th 9th 20th 25th 26th THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Row, P9 edge—P4, B2, P6, B2, P2, repeat ; Row, P9 edge—B2, P2, B6, P2, B4, repeat ; Row, P9 edge—P3, B2, P2, B, P2, B, P2, B2, P, repeat ; Row, P9 edge—B, P2, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P2, B3, repeat ; Repeat from 19th row, &e. C.—17th D’oyley. Cast on for this 84 stitches. Row, P9 edge—P6, B6, repeat; end with P6 ; Row, P9 edge—B6, P6, repeat ; end with B6; Repeat 19th and 20th rows 2 more times. Row, P9 edge—B6, P6, repeat ; end with B6; Row, P9 edge—P6, B6, repeat ; end with P6 ; edge P9, edge P9. edge P9. edge P9- edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. edge P9. 191 Repeat 25th and 26th rows 2 more times ; then recommence from first row. CI.—18th Doyley. 19th Row, P9 edge—B3, P, repeat ; edge P9. 20th Row, P9 edge—B, P3, repeat ; edge P9. 192 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 2lst Row, P9 edge—P, B2, P, repeat; edge P9. 22nd Row, P9 edge—B2, P, B, repeat; edge P9. Repeat from 19th row, &c. CIL.—19th Doyley. 19th Row, P9 edge—P2, B2, repeat ; edge P9. 20th Row, P9 edge—B2, P2, repeat ; edge P9. by 21st Row, P9 edge—B2, P2, repeat ; edge P9. 22nd Row, P9 edge—P2, B2, repeat ; edge P9, Repeat from 19th row, &c. CIII.—20th Doyley. Cast on 74 stitches. 19th Row, P9 edge—B8, P8, B8, P8, B8, PS, B8; 20th Row, P9 edge—P8, B8, P8, B8, P8, B8, P8; Repeat 19th and 20th rows once more. edge P9. edge P9. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 193 23rd Row, P9 edge—B4, P8, B8, P8, B8, P8, B8, P8; edge P9. Repeat 23rd row three more times. 27th Row, P9 edge—P8, B8, P8, B8, P8, B8, P8; edge P9. 28th Row, P9 edge—B8, P8, B8, P8, B8, P8, B8; edge P9. Repeat 27th and 28th rows once more. 31st Row, P9 edge—P4, B8, P8, B8, P8, B8, P8, B4; edge P9. Repeat 31st row three more times. Repeat from 19th row, &c. CIV.—FRINGE FOR TRIMMING D’OYLEYS, &c. &c This Fringe has an open head, and the cut fringe part is put in with plain stitches, as receipt will explain. The cotton fringe part is cut into pieces of about 8 inches long. ‘Two wires of No. 20, and Dutch cotton of No. 12, are required for knitting the open or head part, and cotton of No. 8 for the cut part. Vou. IT. N 194 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Cast on 7 stitches. Ist Row, S, P; pass the thread you are knitting with to the front, and *0O, 7, ; pass the thread to the back, not over the wire, but underneath it ; double one of the pieces of cut cotton ; hang the loop part of it on to the right hand wire, close to last stitch ; knit P2; then pass the ends of cut piece to the front, between the wires, and leave them there; then knit the last stitch. 2nd Kow, 8, P; work the next stitch, taking the loop that was hung on the wire along with it, (in the same way as you would work a common T;) this is to fix it firmly in; bring the thread you are knitting with to the front, and knit O, T, as before; pass the thread to the back, as before, and P2. All the Fringe is knit as these 1st and 2nd rows. ® This O is worked by bringing the thread in front of the wire before commencing, then work the L; by this you will perceive there is a long loop over the wire. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 195 CV.—DOUBLE ROSE LEAF, FOR SHAWLS, SCARES, PURSES, &c. &c. WORKED WITH TWO WIRES. Cast on 19 stitches for each pattern. 1st Row, P, B2, P, O, P, Ts, B, T, P, B, P, Ts, BL oo 2nd Row, B3, P, B2, P, B2, P, B4, P2, B. 3rd Row, P, B2, P, O, P, 0, Ts, B, T, B, Ts, B, Fy0..2, @: 4th Row, B4, P, B, P, B, P, B5, P2, B. 5th Row, P, B2, P, O, P3, O, A, B, A, 9, P3, 0. 6th Row, B6, P, B7, P2, B. 7th Row, P, B2, P, O, P5, O, A, O, P5, O. 8th Row, B16, P2, B. CVL—VERY PRETTY OVAL-SHAPED LOZENGE PATTERN, FOR TWO WIRES, THE FIRST ROW OF LOZENGES LYING ONE WAY, THE REST CONTRARY, Cast on 6 stitches for each pattern, and two stitches for first edge, and three for the other. 196 1st Row, 2nd Row, 8rd Row, 4th Row, 5th Row, 6th Row, 7th Row, 8th Row, 9th Row, 10th Row, 11th Row, 12th Row, 13th Row, 14th Row, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. P2 edge—O, T, P, T, O, P, repeat; B2 edge—B3, O, vy, O, repeat ; P4 edge—O, T, PA, repeat ; B3 edge—B, zy, O, B, x, O, repeat ; P3 edge—O, T, P, O, T, P, repeat; B2, T, O edge—B, x, O, B, 3, O, repeat ; P2 edge—O, T, P4, repeat ; B2 edge—B, O, x, B, 7, 0, repeat ; P4 edge—O, A, O, P3, repeat ; B edge—B4, O, 7, repeat ; P3 edge—T, O, P, T, O, P, repeat ; B3 edge—B, O, 7, B, O, 7, repeat ; P edge—T, O, P, T, O, P, repeat ; Bbd edge—B4, O, x, repeat ; edge P3. edge B3. edge P. edge B2. edge P2. edge B. edge P3. edge B3. edge P. edge B4. edge P2. edge B2. edge P4, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 197 CVII.—SORT OF ROUND SPIDER NET FOR TWO WIRES. Cast on 6 stitches for each pattern, and three stitches for one edge, and two for the other, Ist Row, P3 edge—T, O, P, O, T, P, repeat; = edge P2. 2nd Row, B2, 7, edge—O, B3, O, y,* repeat; - edge B2. 3rd Row, P3 edge—O, T, P, T, O, P, repeat ; - edge P2. 4th Row, B2 edge—B, O, J; B, yO, repeat ; - edge B3. 5th Row, P3 edge—O, T, P, T, O, P, repeat ; 3 edge P2. 6th Row, B edge—B3, O, vy; O, repeat ; = edge B4. 7th Row, P3 edge—T, O, P, O, T, P, repeat ; - edge P2. 8th Row, B2 edge—B, x, 9, B, O, 7, Tepeats as edge B3. * Observe at the end of this row, the y must only be T in repeating the pattern for the last time. 198 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. CVIIL—VERY PRETTY SORT OF SHELL, WITH OPEN HEM UP THE SIDE, | FOR TWO WIRES. | Ist Row, P3, O, T, P, T, P4, 05—P4, T, P3, O, T, P. 2nd Row, B3, O, 7, B, —B4—P, B, P, B4—yz, B3, O, x, B. 3rd Row, P3, O, T—P12—T, P3, O, T, P. 4th Row, B3, O, ,—B16—9, j, B. 5th Row, P3, O, T, P4, O, P, O, P, O, P, O, P, O, P, O, P, OP; O..P5;.O, Tap. 6th Row, B3, O, 7, B, ~—B15—y,, B4, Ops B: %th Row, P3, O, T, P, T—P14—T, P3, O, T, P. Sth Row, B3, O, x, B, ~—B12— 7, B3, 0, ay B 9th Row, P3, O, T, P, T—P10—T, P83, O, T, P. 10th Row, *B3, O, 7—B16—O, x, B. 11th Row, *P3, 0, T—P16—0, T, P. 12th Row, *B3, 0, y—B16—0, J, B. * Work the three last rows with double cotton. THE LADY 8 WORK BOOK. 199 CIX.—SHADED FICHU, OF A TRIANGULAR SHAFE. This Fichu is worked in twelve shades of green and twelve of pink, commencing with the darkest shade of green, and working two rows of each shade up to the light- est ; then from the lightest pink to the darkest, and again from the darkest pink to the lightest. The pink shades are double the breadth of the green. Work as fol- lowing receipt, until the Fichu is about three half-quarters of a yard long, then work one plain row, and cast it off. At the end of every second row, cut off the thread, but leave about one-eighth of a yard in length ; then tie on the following shade, leaving about the same; tie them close up to the last stitch knit, as they are left to be knotted afterwards. When the Fichu is finished, attach pieces of wool to correspond with this, on the cast-off side; then knot it as described in the Shetland Shawl Fringe. One hank of each of the greens, and two of the pinks are required, and two pins of No. 12. Cast on 8 stitches with the Ist, or darkest shade of green. 200 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 1st Row, Sa, P2. 2nd Row, *O, P38. Qnd Shade. 8rd Row, Sa, P3. 4th Row, O, P4. 3rd Shade. 5th Row, Sa, P4. 6th Row, O, P5. 4th Shade. 7th Row, Sa, P edge—O, S, T; edge P. 8th Row, O, P edge—O, 8, T; edge P2. 5th Shade.. 9th Row, Sa, P edge—O, S, T; edge P2. 10th Row, O, P2 edge—O, S, T; edge P2. * This is to make an extra stitch, by bringing the wool before the pin previous to knitting the plain stitches, consequently it makes a long loop over the needJe, which forms a stitch in the next row ; it also forms a pretty edge along the slanting side of the Fichu. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 6th Shade. 11th Row, Sa, P edge—O, S, T; edge P3. 12th Row, 0, P3 edge—O, S, T; edge P2. 7th Shade. 13th Row, Sa, P edge—O, S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P2. 14th Row, O, P edge—O, S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P2. 8th Shade. 15th Row, Sa, P edge—O, S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P2. 16th Row, O, P2 edge—O, S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P2. 9th Shade. 17th Row, Sa, P edge, O, S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P3. 18th Row, O, P3 edge, O, S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P3. 10th Shade. 19th Row, Sa, P edge, O, S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P. 20th Row, O, P edge, O, S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P2. 201 202 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 11th Shade. 21st Row, Sa, P edge, O, S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P2. 22nd Row, O, P2 edge, O, S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P2. 12th Shade. 23rd Row, Sa, P edge, O, S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P3. 24th Row, O, P3 edge, O, S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P2. This finishes the green shades: and as the last is the lightest, you conse- quently begin with the lightest pink ; then 2 rows of the second shade ; then 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th; then 11th, 10th, 9th, 8th, 7th, 6th, 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, Ist. Ast, or lightest Pink. 25th Row, P2 edge, O,S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P. 26th Row, O, P edge, O,S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P2. 2nd Pink. 27th Row, Sa, P edge, 0,8, T; repeat to end, all but edge P2. 28th Row, O, P2 edge, O, 8, T; repeat to end, all but edge P2. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 203 8rd Shade. 29th Row, S, P edge, O, S, T; repeat to end, all but edge P3. 30th Row, 0, P38 edge, O, S, T ; repeat to end, all but edge P2. Work the 4th shade as 25th and 26th rows ; 5th as 27th and 28th rows; 6th as 29th and 30th rows ; 7th shade as 25th and 26th rows; 8th shade as 27th and 28th rows; 9th as 29th and 80th rows ; 10th as 25th and 26th rows; llth as 27th and 28th rows; 12th as 29th and 30th rows; lith as 25th and 26th rows; 10th as 27th and 28th rows ; 9th as 29th and 30th rows; 8th as 25th and 26th rows; 7th as 27th and 28th rows; 6th as 29th and 30th rows; Sth as 25th and 26th rows; Ath as 27th and 28th rows ; 3rd as 29th and 30th rows ; 2nd as 25th and 26th.rows ; Ist as 27th and 28th rows; this finishes the pink. Commence again with Ist or dark- est shade of green, as 29th and 30th rows ; 2ndas 25th and 26th rows ; 8rd as 27th and 28th rows; 4th as 29th and 30th rows; 5th as 25th and 26th rows; 6th as 27th and 28th rows; 7th as 29th and 30th rows; 8th as 25th and 26th rows ; 9th as 27th and 28th rows; 10th as 29th and 30th rows ; Llthas 25th and 26th rows ; 204 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. 12th as 27th and 28th rows. Again with pink, commencing at the first shade, as 29th and 30th rows ; and so on in succession. This makes a very beautiful Shawl, if worked large enough, CX.—WARM KNIT CUFFS, FOR WEARING ABOVE THE GOWN SLEEVES, These are knit all on two wires; suppose nine shades of grey, as much of the shade of Chinchilla fur as possible, beginning with black and coming up to a light grey. They are made up in the following way.—After being cast off, sew the two sides together, the sides being much shorter than the cast-on and cast-off rows ; having sewn this up, fold the knitting so that the seam comes in the centre of the knitting on the one side, which will be the wrong side of the Cuff, the right side having no seam.. By this means the Cuff is now double; then sew up the cast-off and cast- on rows together. You will perceive by this, there are, as it were, four edges, the work having been doubled before; sew them all up together. By this the light shades fall in the centre. Work as the following receipt. : THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 205 Cast on 77 stitches with double Berlin wool. Two pins of No. 9, and one and a half ounces of wool are required. 1st, or Darkest Shade. Ist Row, plain. Qnd Row, T, O, to end of row, edge Ps 3rd Row, plain. Ath Row, plain. 5th Row, plain. Tie on 2nd shade; then 6th Row, P edge, O, T, to end of row 7th Row, plain. Sth Row, plain 8rd shade as Ist shade, 4th as 2nd shade, 5th as Ist shade, 6th as 2nd shade, 7th as Ist shade, 8th as 2nd shade, 9thas Ist shade, Sth as 2nd shade, 7th as Ist shade, 6th as 2nd shade, 5th as Ist shade, 4th as 2nd shade, 3rd as Ist shade, 2nd as 2nd shade, 206 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK, CXL—A MUFF OF THE SAME KIND. Worked in seven shades of grey, getting up to very light. Two pins of No. 9, and three ounces of wool are required. Cast on 97 stitches with double wool. lst, or Darkest Shade. Ist Row, plain. 2nd Row, T, O; edge P. 3rd Row, plain. 4th Row, plain. Second Shade. 5th Row, plain. 6th Row, P edge, O, T; repeat. 7th Row, plain. 8th Row, plain. Repeat from 1st row with third shade and fourth sh rows; and so on in succession, as follows. ss. ade, as 5th and following THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 207 83rd shade as Ist shade, 4th as 2nd shade, 5th as Ist shade, 6th as 2nd shade, "th as Ist shade, 6th as 2nd shade, 5th as Ist shade, 4th as Qnd shade, 3rd as Ist shade, 2nd as 2nd shade, Istas 1st or darkest shade, 2nd as 2nd shade, 3rd as Ist shade, 4th as 2nd shade, 5th as 1st shade, Gth as 2nd shade, 7th as Ist shade, 6th as 2nd shade, 5th as Ist shade, Ath as 2nd shade, 3rd as 1st shade, Qnd as 2nd shade; finish with the Ist or darkest. Cast it off. Seam or join the two sides, not the cast-off or cast-on rows, but the short sides; the seam must be put to the back part of the Muff ; line it with wadding, and make it up like any other Muff. CXIL—A SORT OF MALTESE CROSS, OPEN PATTERN. WORKED WITH FOUR WIRES. 1st Round, P10, O, T, P14. 9nd Round, P8, O, T, P, T, 9, P13. 8rd Round, P9, O, A, 9, P14. 4th Round, P6, O, T, P5, T, O, Pil. 5th Round, P7, O, T, P3, T, O, P12. 6th Round, P4, O, T, P2, 9, T, Pet, oO, P2, Tf, 0; P93 208 7th Round, P5, O, T, 8th Round, P2, O, T, 9th Round, P3, O, T, 10th Round, P2, T, O, 11th Round, P, T, O, PQ 12th Round, P4, 13th Round, P3, 14th Round, P6, 15th Round, P5, T, O, P2, P2, P2, P2, T,O L,:0; 0, 2, 2, 2, 5, 3, bey P P z T, O, Ps HOO: D205 EO; OFT; ea 16th Round, P8, T, O, P, O, T, P13. Then Cast on two stitches for each pattern, and one odd stitch at the end. 5 plain rounds, Repeat from 1st round. ; CXIII.—A WAVE, NOT RUNNING UP, BUT ALONG THE WORK. WORKED WITH FOUR WIRES. This odd stitch is to make the pattern come in properly, and is worked with the O at the beginning of the next round. Before commencing each line of waves, after every 10th round of the receipt, work 12 rounds plain, then repeat as before. THE LADY 8 WORK BOOK. 209 Ist Round, O, Ts; repeat all round.* 2nd Round, O, Ts; repeat all round.* $rd Round, O, Ts; repeat all round.* 4th Round, O, Ts; repeat all round,* 5th Round, O, Ts; repeat all round.t Gth Round, O, T; repeat all round. 7th Round, O, T; repeat all round. 8th Round, O, T ; repeat all round. 9th Round, O, T; repeat all round. 10th Round, O, T; repeat until you are at the two last loops of this round; do not work them, but lift the first loop off from the following wire on to the wire you have the two loops on, then work them thus, O, A. Work 12 plain rounds, then repeat from first round. * At the end of the round you have the odd stitch, lift it on to the following wire before commencing the 2nd round. + At the end of the 5th round, work the odd stitch plain, and leave it there, as it makes the pattern work properly in on the 7th. Vou. II a THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. CXIV.._WAVE, BROADER THAN THE ONE BEFORE. WORKED WITH FOUR WIRES. Cast on 4 stitches for each pattern, and 3 for the last one, as it is required to make it work in properly. Work 12 plain rounds before commencing. Ist Round, O, Ts, P2; repeat all round.* 2nd Round, O, Ts, P2; repeat all round.* 8rd Round, O, Ts, P2; repeat all round.* 4th Round, O, Ts, P2; repeat all round.* 5th Round, O, Ts, P2; repeat all round.+ {6th Round, O, P2, T. At the end of this row you will be deficient two stitches te * At the end of the round you are deficient a stitch ; take it from off the following wire, then work as the next round in the receipt. + At the end of the 5th round you will be deficient a stitch; do not take it from off the following wire, but work the 6th. = Before commencing the 6th round, lift up a stitch on to the point of the first wire of that round, as it is required to work the first T with; then commence and work as 6th round. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. ott work the T ; just pick up one stitch from the row below and work it,—which must count for a T,—then work as the 7th round 7th Round, O, P2, T. 8th Round, O, P2, T. 9th Round, O, P2, T. 10th Round, 0, P2, T. At the end of the 10th round, instead of O, P2, T, work O, T, T; 12 plain rounds, then repeat from first round as before. CXV.—SORT OF SPIDER NET. FoR 2 OR 4 WIRES, AND VERY SIMPLE. 1st Round, O, A, O, P38. 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, P3, O, A, O. 4th Round, plain. THE LADY'S WORK Book. CXVI.—PARISIAN KNIT SHOE. VERY BEAUTIFUL AND VERY SIMPLE, WITH OPEN STOCKING IN WHITE, AND SHOE IN COLOUR. This shoe is equally suitable for boys or girls. It is knit on 2 wires, of No. 16, and sewn up after, as described at the end of the receipt. Cast on with colour 30 stitches. Ist Row, plain. 2nd Row, S, P27, M, P2. 8rd Row, S, P28, M, P2; repeat as 8rd row 18 more times, always making a stitch on every row, before the last 2 loops on the en Having worked the 18 addition d of the wire. al rows, you will have, in all, 50 stitches on your wire; then work as follows :— 22nd Row, S edge—plain row, and 4 more rows. 27th Row, S edge—P15 ; now tie on the white, and work the remainder of the row with it; there should be, of white, 34 28th stitches in all. Row, S edge—P83, with white ; then colour—P 16, ye So Ss Pee THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 213 29th Row, S edge—P15, with colour ; then white, T, 0, P, B; repeat T, O, P, B, to end of row—edge P2. 30th Row, S edge, P—T, 0, P, B, with white ; repeat T, O, P, B, to end of white ; then with colour—P16. Repeat as 29th and 30th rows 3 more times. 37th Row, 8S edge—P15, colour ; then with white, T, O, P, B, T, O, P, B, E:0, P, B; still with white—P22 38th Row, 8, P edge—P20 ; then TO; P,B, ‘T, 0, PB; T, O, P, B; then with colour—P16. 89th Row, S, P15—with colour; then with. white, T, 0; P,. By T; 0, P, B; z, O, P, B; lift the remaining 22 loops on to a piece of thread, until the other side is worked. 40th Row, T, O, P, B, T, O, P, B, T, 0, P, B, with white; then with colour—P16. 41st Row, S edge—P15, with colour; then with white, T, O, P, Bat, OF P28, DMeOwP; B: 42nd Row, T, 0, P, B, T, O, P, B, T, 0, P, B, with white ; then with colour—P16, THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. Repeat as 41st and 42nd rows 4 more times. 5ist Row, S edge—P15, colour; then with white, T, O, P, B, rOO.P, Boia P, B; then cast on 22 loops for the other side of ancle. 52nd Row, 8S, P edge—P20, with white ; still with white, T, O, Pb, T.Oyes B, T, O, P, B; then with colour—edge P16. 58rd Row, S, P15—with colour; then with white, T, O, P, B; repeat to end of white—P2. 54th Row, S, P edge—T, O, P, B; repeat to end of white ; then colour—P16. Repeat as 53rd and 54th rows 3 more times. 61st Row, S edge—P15, colour; then white—P34. 62nd Row, S, P edge—P32, with white ; then colour—edge P16. 63rd Row, S, P49—with colour, and 5 more rows. 69th Row, S, P, Ts, P46. 70th Row, 8. P, T. P45; repeat as this row 18 more times, always taking in a stitch at the commencement of the wire, as the 69th and 70th rows are described, until you have reduced the number of stitches to 30; then THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 215 cast it off; but do not cut off the wool. If you have worked properly, the cast-off row will be on the right side, consequently, the thread is now at the heel. Pick up the 11 slipped edge stitches at the slanting side of the heel, and you have one of the cast-off stitches on the wire, so work off the 11 slanting ones plain; this is for a small gusset. You have 12 stitches ; work as follows :— Ist Row, S, T, P9. 6th Row, 8, T, P4 2nd Row, S, T, P8. 7th Row, 8, T, P38. 8rd Row, S, T, P7. 8th Row, S, T, P2. 4th Row, 8, T, P6. 9th Row, §, T, P. 5th Row, S, T, P5. } 10th Row, S, T. Lift the one over the other, as a cast-off, which finishes the gusset; leave as much of the wool as will join the shoe when it is all worked, for joins in the thread look ill. There is another gusset worked on the slanting part of the toe, but it is worked on the opposite side of the foot to the heel one. Work it as follows :—Pick up the 11 slanting stitches and one of the cast-off stitches, making in all 12 as follows :— Ist Row, S, T, P9. 2nd Row, S, P10. 3rd Row, S, T, P8. 4th Row, S, P9. 5th Row, 8, T, P7. 6th Row, S, P8. 7th Row, S, T, P6. 8th Row, 8, P7. 9th Row, S, T, P5. 10th Row, 8, P6. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. stitches; tie on the wool at the side of the cast-off loop just picked up; then work 11th Row, 8, T, P4. 12th Row, 8, P5. 13th Row, 8, T, P3. 14th Row, S, P4. 15th Row, S, T, P2. 16th Row, S, P3. 17th Row, S, T, P. 18th Row, S, P2. 19th Row, S, T; lift the one over the other ; as a cast off. Now pick up all the stitches round the ancle, 22 for each side, and 12 loops on the centre of forefoot part; then tie on the white wool at the end of the side where you cast-on the 22 loops; and work as follows :— THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 217 e 1st Row, §, 2nd Row, §, 8rd Row, 8S, Pé 4th Row, S, Pé 5th Row, S, P edge—O, T, P; repeat to end—edge P2. 6th Row, S, plain. 7th Row, 8, plain. 8th Row, S, plain. 9th Row, §S, plain. 10th Row, §, plain. 11th Row, 8, P edge—T, O, P, B; repeat T, O, P, B, to end—edge Po; Repeat as 11th row 15 more times. Then finish with 12 rows as follows :— S, P3 edge—B3, P3; repeat to end—edge B4. S, P3 edge—B3, P38; repeat to end—edge B4. Every row is the same; then cast off. Join it up on the wrong side, by sewing the white part together, until you come to Law} t Or Or OK Xe Or Or Or S oO . 218 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. the coloured part of heel; thread the coloured piece that was left at the heel gusset ; run it up very neatly to the top of the heel, which is only a few rows above the gusset, then join the plain ridges of colour, which will be about three ; now take the side of the gusset which is next to the part you are sewing, and sew it to the half of the slanting side of heel ; then take the other side of the gusset, and sew it to the other half of the said slanting part of heel. (You will observe, by this, that the slanting side of the heel that has no gusset worked on it ig divided; and one side of the gusset is sewn on the top half, and the other side of gusset is sewn on to the other.—It is almost impossible, without you have the boot worked before you, to understand this description.) Then join the sole parts quite even together; then take that part of the toe gusset which runs even with the sole of the boot, and sew it to the slanting side of the toe part, which exactly fits it ; having done this, draw up the forefoot, or toe part, and sew it to the side of the gusset, which now runs between the two sides of the shoe; keep the full part of forefoot rather to the sides than the middle, as it makes the toe more square. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 219 TAMBOUR DICED BAG, IN DIAMONDS OF BLUE AND BLACK. This Bag is worked with union cord, or a very coarse purse twist, generally called ‘extra coarse,” (of which three skeins of black and three of blue, are re- quired), and a steel hook, or a very small ivory one. Cast on three chain stitches, (in black); join them to form the round ; this is the bottom of the Bag. Then work the double tambour stitch, carrying on the blue thread; at the same time letting out on every other stitch, until you have 72 stitches; this forms 9 diamonds round the Bag, of 13 stitches in breadth and 13 rows in height, as working receipt will show. When any change of colour is marked in the receipt, let the finishing loop of the preceding stitch be the same, in order that the stitches may come in evenly. This must be particularly observed. Now commence inserting the colour. Ist Round, 1 blue, 7 black, repeat all round. 2nd Round, *increase with blue on the last black stitch, then 2 plain blue ; the first * Increase bere, is to work one more stitch on the last stitch or loop just worked. 220 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. of the 2 plain stitches is exactly above the blue stitch in the former round ; then 6 black, repeat all round. 8rd Round, increase as before, and 4 plain; then 5 black, repeat all round. 4th Round, increase as before, and 6 plain; then 4 black, repeat all round. 5th Round, increase as before, and 8 plain ; then 3 black, repeat all round. 6th Round, increase as before, and 10 plain; then 2 black, repeat all round. 7th Round, increase as before, and 12 plain; then 1 black, repeat all round. This finishes the increasing of the Bag, and is the half of the blue diamond, therefore you must now add to the black stitches, and diminish the blue, the last you worked being the black. Work as following receipt :— 8th Round, 12 blue, 3 black, after this, during all the round, work only 11 blue and 3 black. 9th Round, 10 blue, 5 black, after this, during all the round, work only 9 blue and 5 black. 10th Round, 8 blue, 7 black, after this, during all the round, work only 7 blue and 7 black. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 221 11th Round, 6 blue, 9 black, after this, during all the round, work only 5 blue and 9 black. 12th Round, 4 blue, 11 black, after this, during all the round, work only 3 blue and 11 black. 18th Round, 2 blue, 13 black, after this, during all the round, work only 1 blue and 13 black. End this round with 1 blue, which is the centre stitch or finishing of the blue diamond. 14th Round, 12 black, 3 blue, after this, during all the round, work only 11 black and 3 blue. 15th Round, 10 black, 5 blue, after this, during all the round, work only 9 black and 5 blue. 16th Round, 8 black, 7 blue, after this, during all the round, work only 7 black and 7 blue. 17th Round, 6 black, 9 blue, after this, during all the round, work only 5 black and 9 blue. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 18th Round, 4 black, 11 blue, after this, during all the round, work only 3 black and 11 blue. 19th Round, 2 black, 13 blue, after this, during all the round, work only 1 black and 13 blue. Finish this round with 1 black, which terminates the black diamond ; repeat from 8th Round, until the bag is large enough, If wished, this receipt will do for a purse, worked with third sized purse silk ; seven diamonds only being required for a purse. It also does for Gentlemen’s Night- Caps, worked in No. 6 cotton, and the same size of ingrained cotton, called turkey red, and a large hook. CXVII.—_TAMBOURED ROUND HASSOCK. The centre is a star of 9 points, finished at the edge with a narrow vandyke border of the same colour the star is worked in. This border is to finish the top part of the Hassock, after which the Hassock is never let out, as the border for side is con- tinued and worked all on the same loops. It may be worked to any depth, with a small pattern in the centre of it, of the same colour as the star. The wool used for tambouring is 9 ply black for ground, and carmine for star part. Work with an 2 int ind ns be ARB 2S stan at 2 ait THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 223 ivory hook. The stitch it is worked in is the ‘‘ Double Tambour,” described in page 194 of Vol. I. of “« The Lady’s Assistant.” Cast on 3 stitches of chain-stitch, (with black); join them to form the round ; then commence the double tambour stitch, by working one plain stitch; on the next stitch increase. So repeat all round. Continue working in this way till you have 27 loops, including the loop on the needle, then continue as following working receipt. 1st Round, 1 plain stitch with colour, 2 plain black. 2nd Round, *increase with colour on coloured stitch of former round; 2 plain black ; repeat all round. 8rd Round, increase with colour on first coloured stitch of former round ; 1 plain coloured, 2 plain black; repeat all round. 4th Round, increase with colour on first coloured stitch of former round, 2 plain coloured, 2 plain black ; repeat all round. Continue as these four rounds, always increasing on the first stitch of the colour, until you have 11 coloured stitches for each point, and 2 black stitches between each * To increase is to work 2 stitches on the same loop. 224 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. point. You must then diminish the number of stitches of the colour to form the points ; consequently, add to the black stitches, two between each of the points during every row, until you have only one stitch of colour, as the following four rounds will exemplify. 12th Round, 10 coloured ; increase with black, and 2 plain stitches ; repeat all round. 13th Round, 9 coloured ; increase with black, and 4 plain stitches ; repeat all round. 14th Round, 8 coloured ; increase with black, and 6 plain stitches ; repeat all round. 15th Round, 7 coloured ; increase with black, and 8 plain stitches ; repeat all round. Continue as the above four rounds, always increasing on the black, and diminish- ing the colour, until you have only one coloured stitch ; then work two plain rounds in black, always letting out as before. Next round, work one stitch with colour, and 3 black ; repeat all round, still letting out as before. Next round, 3 coloured stitches exactly above the last coloured stitch, and one black ; in this row do not let out, but let out as before in next row. It is all colour; this coloured row finishes the top of the Hassock. Still continue working with black for the band part, but THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 225 never increase; it may be all worked in black, or a small pattern of colour in the centre of it, as following receipt will explain. 7 Rounds all black. 8th Round, one coloured stitch, and 8 black stitches ; repeat all rqund ; work only two black stitches at end of round. 9th Round, 3 coloured stitches exactly above the coloured stitch of former round, then one black stitch; repeat all round. 10th Round, all coloured. llth Round, $ coloured stitches, and one black stitch ; repeat all round ; work two black at end of row, 12th Round, one coloured stitch, exactly in centre of these last coloured stitches of former round, then 3 black; repeat all round. 18th Round, black, and six more rounds, which finishes Hassock. It may then be made up as any other Hassock. This receipt may also be worked for a bag, purse, or pen-wiper. If for a bag, work with the coarse purse twist; if for a purse, the second size. Of course the Vou. Il. Pr THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. band part must be omitted. It also does for a round table-cover, by extending the star for several rounds more than in this receipt, before diminishing the points. If more points than nine are wished, add three more stitches for each point you may require, before commencing the first round. CXVIII.—VERY BEAUTIFUL BAREGE TRIANGULAR KNIT FICHU FOR THE NECK. It is composed of the open leaf pattern, (same as 148th receipt of Vol. I.) and an open border of a vandyke of spider net. This border is very pretty, and appro- priate for shawls, scarfs, bed-covers, &e. This receipt may be worked for a shawl, by continuing the centre, or leaf pattern, to whatever size you may wish; but, by so doing, you must reckon for the proper number of stitches that are required to make the border work in properly. Two hanks of very fine twisted wool, or two-plies Lady Betty are required, and two ivory pins of No. 7. This Fichu, if wished, may be lined with pale blue coloured satin, or any other colour that is preferred. The principle on which this neck- THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 227 kerchief is formed, is by casting on at the neck part, then letting out one stitch at the edge; then two exactly at the centre of the back part ; then again at the other edge: by this, there are four extra stitches in each front row; then a back, or plain row, as will be seen by working the following receipt. When worked, wash and dress it, according to the directions given at the end of the receipt for the Shetland Knit Shawl, in page 118 of this Volume. The border may be worked in coloured English embroidery wool, in shades of scarlet, commencing with dark, and going to the light, and from the light receding to the dark, say about 12 shades. Cast on 81 stitches. 1st Row, S edge, plain, and 5 more rows. "th Row, 8, P3, O, T edge—then O, T; repeat to centre stitch. Work it thus, O, P, O, then T, O; repeat to end—edge T, O, P4. 8th Row, S edge—P82. 9th Row, S, P3, O, edge—plain to centre stitch; O, P, O; then plain to end— edge O, P4. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 10th Row, S edge—P86. 11th Row, S, P3, O, edge—plain to centre stitch; O, P, O; then plain to end— edge O, P4. 12th Row, S edge—P90. 13th Row, S, P3, O, P8 edge—tO, P3, T, T, P3, O, P; repeat 2 more times from mark thus +; centre, O, P, O; then ¢ P, O, P3, T, T, P3, 0; repeat 2 more times from mark thus {—edge, P8, O, P4,. 14th Row, S edge—P94. 15th Row, S, P3, O, P38, T, P2, O, P3 edge—tO, P2, T, T, P2, O, P35; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times; centre, O, P,O; {P3, O, P2, T, T, P2, 0; repeat from mark thus ¢ 2 more times—edge P3, 0, P2,_T, P3, O, P4. 16th Row, S edge—P98. 17th Row, S, P3, O, P4, T, P, O, P5 edge—t O, P, T, T, P, O, P5 ; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times ; centre, O, P, 0; {P5, O, P, T, T, P, O; repeat from mark thus { 2 more times—edge P5, O, P, T, P4, O, P4. Ww 18th Row, 19th Row, 20th Row, 2lst Row, 22nd Row, 23rd Row, 24th Row, 25th Row, 7 = THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 229 S edge—P 102. Sips,.0, Ps; T, Oks edge—t O, T, T, O, P7; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times; centre, O, P,O; ¢ P7, O, T. T, O; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times—edge P7, 0,°L, P5;'0;/P4. S edge—P106. S, P3, 0, P5, 0, T, 0, P4, T, P3 edge—t O, T, O, P4, T, P3; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times ; centre, oO, P, 05 RPaa, Ps, ok, O; repeat from mark thus ¢ 2 more times—edge P3,-Ty3B45.05 TOs P5, O, P4. S edge—P110. S, P3, O, P7 edge—t 9, P, 0, P3, T, T, P3; repeat from mark thus t 3 more times ; centre, O, P, O; + P3, T, T, Pe; O, P, 0; repeat from mark thus ¢ 3 more time—edge P7, O, PA: S edge—P114. S, P3, 0, P4, T, P2, O, P edge—t P2, O, P2, T, T, P2, O, P; repeat from mark thus + 8 more times; centre, 0. P. O: £P, 0, P2, T, fT, 230 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. P2, O, P2; repeat from mark thus ¢ 3 more times—edge P, O, P2, T, P4, O, P4. 26th Row, S edge—P118. 27th Row, S, P3, 0, P5, T, P, 0, P38 edge; t P2, OP, T/2, P.O; Ps; repeat from mark thus t 3 more times; centre, O; 2 Ost Ps) O07? P, O, P2; repeat from mark thus ¢ 3 more times—edge P3, O, P, T, P5, O, P4. 28th Row, S edge—P122. 29th Row, S, P3, O, P4, O, T, T, O, P5 edge—t P2, O, T, T, O, P5; repeat from mark thus t 3 more times; centre, O, P,O; P35, 0;°T, EG: P2; repeat from mark thus + 3 more times—edge P5, O, T, T,O, P4, O, P4. 30th Row, S edge, P126. 31st Row, S, P3, O, P6, O, T, O, P3, T, P2 edge—t P2, O, T, O, P3, T, P2; repeat from mark thus t 3 more times; centre; O, P; O; ft P2> Tra, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK 231 O, T, O, P2; repeat from mark thus { 3 more times—edge P2, T, P3, O, T, O, P6, O, P4. 32nd Row, S edge, P130. 33rd Row, *8 P3, 0, P& edge—t 0, P, 0, P3, T, T, P38; repeat from mark thus t 2 more times; then work O, P, O, P3, T, P3; centre O, P, ; P38, T, P3, O, P, O, $ PS, T, T, P3, O, P, O; repeat from mark thus } 3 more times—edge P8, O, P4. 34th Row, S edge, P1536. 35th Row, 8, P3, 0, P5, T, P2 edge—t O, P3, O, P2, T, T, P2; repeat from mark thus + 4 more times ; then.O, P; Ow ¢ P2, T, tT: P2, O, P3, O; repeat from mark thus { 4 more times—edge P2, T, P5,.0, P4. 36th Row, S edge, P138. 37th Row, 8, P3, 0, P6, T, P edge—+ O, P5, O, P, T, T, P; repeat from mark thus + 4 more times ; then work O, P; centre, O, P, O; then work P, * In this row there are two more stitches than should be, but that is unavoidable in bringing in the pattern; consequently, it must be taken in in the next open row. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. O; tP, T,T, P,O, P5, O; repeat from mark thus { 4 more times— edge P, T, P6, O, P4. 38th Row, S edge, P142. 39th Row, S, P3, O, P5, O, T, T edge—t O, P7, 0, T, T; repeat from mark thus + 4 more times; then work O, P3; centre, O, P, O; then work P3,0; $T, T, O, P7, O; repeat from mark thus { 4 more times ; edge T, T, O, P5, O, P4. 40th Row, S edge, P146. 41st Row, S, P3, O, P, T, P4, O, T, edge—tO, P3, T, P4, O, T; repeat from mark thus + 4 more times, then work O, P5; centre, O, P, O; then work P5, O—} T, 0, P4, T, P3, O; repeat from mark thus { 4 more times—edge T, O, P4, T, P, O, P4. 42nd Row, S edge—P150. 43rd Row, S, P3, O, P, T, T, P3, 0, P, O, edge—}P8, T, T, P3, O, P, O; re- peat from mark thus + 4 more times, then work P7; centre O, P, 0; Ne’ THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 233 then work P7—{O, P, O, P3, T, T, P83; repeat from mark thus 4 more times—edge O, P, O, P3, T, T PrOwPs 44th Row, S edge—P154. 45th Row, 8, P3, 0, P3, T, P3, O, P, 0, edge—tP3, T, T, P3, O, P, O; repeat from mark thus + 4 more times, then work P3, T, P4; centre O, P O; then work P4, T, P3—{O, P, O, P3, T, T, P3; repeat from mark thus ¢ 4 more times—edge O, P, O, P3, T,) P8,.0, Pe: 46th Row, S edge—P158. 47th Row, S,.P3, O, P4, T, P2, edge—tO, P3, O, P2, T, T, P2; repeat from mark thus + 5 more times, then work O, P; centre O, P, O; then work P, O—{P2, T, T, P2, 9, P3, O; repeat from mark thus } 5 more times—edge P2, T, P4, O, P4. 48th Row, S edge—P162. 49th Row, S, P83, O, P5, T, P, O, P5, 0, edge—tP, T, T, P, O, P5, O; repeat from mark thus + 4 more times, then work P, T, T, P, 0, P3; centre ++ 234 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. O, P, O; then work P3, 0, P, T, T, P—tO, P5, 0, P, T, T, P 3; Te- peat from mark thus ¢ 4 more times—edge O, P5, O, P, T, P5, O, P+. 50th Row, S edge—P 166. 51st Row, S, P3, 0, P6, T, O, P7, 0, T, T, edge—tO, P7, O, T, T; repeat from mark thus + 4 more times, then work O, P5; centre O, P, O; then work P5, O—}T, T, O, P7, O; repeat from mark thus + 4 more times —edge T, T, O, P7, O, T, P6, O, PA. 52nd Row, S edge—P170. 53rd Row, S, P3, O, P3, T, P, O, T, O, edge—tP3, T, P4, 0, T, O; repeat from mark thus + 5 more times; then work P7; centre O, P,O; then work P7—j0, T, O, P4, T, P3; repeat from mark thus {5 more times— edge O, T, O, P, T, P3, O, P4. 54th Row, S edge—P174. 55th Row, S, P3, O, P3, T, P2, 0, P, O, edge—tP3, T, T, P3, O, P, O; repeat from mark thus + 5 more times, then work P3, T, P4; centre O, THE LADY 8 WORK BOOK. 235 P,O; then work P4, T, P8—{O, P, O, P3, T, T, P3; repeat from ark thus ¢ 5 more times—edge Ol POs P2e Ts Psp OAP 4. 56th Row, S Ss gi 57th Row, S, P3, O, P2, T, T, P2, edge—tO, P, O, P3, T, T. P3; repeat from ary thus + 5 more times, then work O, P, O, P3, TT. Ps 0, ni centre O, P, O; then work P, O, P4, T, P3, 0; P;O—tP3, T, P3, O, P, O; repeat from mark thus { 5 more Hinee-staige P2-F, : P2, O, P4. 58th Row, S edge—P182. 59th Row, S, P3, O, P3, T, T, O, P3, O, edge—+P2, T, T, P2, 0, P3,0; repeat from mark thus + 6 more times; centre O, P, O—+0, P3, O, P2, T, T, P2; repeat from mark thus } 6 more times—edge 0, PY,.0,. 81 )-P3, O, P4. 60th Row, S edge—P186. 6lst Row, S, P3, O, P6, O, P5, edge—tO, P, T, T, P, O, P5; repeat from THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. mark thus +t 6 more times; centre O, P, O—+P5, O, P, T, T, P, O; repeat from mark thus { 6 more tinted P5, O, P6, O, P4. 62nd Row, S edge—P190. 63rd Row, 8S, P3, O, P5, T, O, P7, edge—t-O, T, T,O, P7; repeat from mark thus + 6 more times; centre O, P, O—{P7, 0, T, T, O; repeat from mark thus + 6 more times—edge P7, O, T, P5, O, P4. 64th Row, S edge—P194, 65th Row, S, P3, 0, P5, edge—tO, T, O, P3, T, P4; repeat from mark thus t 7 more times; centreO, P, O—{P4, T, P38, 0, T, O ; repeat from mark thus { 7 more times—edge P5, O, P4. 66th Row, S edge—P198. 67th Row, S, P3, 0, P7,edge—tO, P, O, P3,T, T, P3; repeat from mark thus t 7 more times; centre O, P, O; {P3, T, T, P3, O, P, O ; repeat from mark thus { 7 more times—edge P7, O, P4. 68th Row, S edge—P202. Ne’ THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 237 69th Row, S$, P3, 0, P3, T, PS, edge—t0, P3, O, P2, T, T, P2; repeat from mark thus + 7 more times, then work O, P; centre O, P, O; then work P, O—{P2, T, T, P2, O, P3,O; repeat from mark thus { 7 more times—edge P3, T, P38, O, P4. 70th Row, S edge—P206. “1st Row, S, P3, O, P4, T, P2, edge—tO, P5, O, P, T, T, P; repeat from mark thus + 7 more times, then work O, P3; centre O, P, O; then work P3, O, tP, T,—T, P, 0, P5, O; repeat from mark thus ¢ 7 more times—edge P2,T, P4, O, P4. 2nd Row, S edge—P210. 3rd Row, S, P3, O, P4, O, T, T, 9, edge—tP7, O, T, T, O; repeat from mark thus + 7 more times, then P5; centre O, P, O; then work P5, —tO, T, T, O, P7; repeat from mark thus { 7 more times—edge O, T, T, O, P4, O, P4 74th Row, S edge—P214. 75th Row, S, P3, 0, P3, T, P, 9, T; O, edge—tP3, T, p4, O, T, O; repeat 5 ‘ ” ‘ THE LADY S WORK BOOK. from mark thus + 7 more times, then work P7; centre O, P, 0; then work P7—+O, T, O, P4, T, P3; repeat from mark thus £ 7 more times—edge O, T, O, P, T, P3, O, P4. 76th Row, S edge—P218. 77th Row, S, P3, 0; plain to the centre, O. P, O; plain to the edge, O, P4. 78th Row, S$ edge—P122. 79th Row, S, P3, 0, P3, edge—O,T ; repeat O, T, to centre; O, P;O; then T, 0; repeat T, O, to edge, P3, O, P4. 80th Row, S edge—P126. 81st Row, S, P3, O, edge—plain to centre, O, P, O; plain to edge, O, P4. 82nd Row, S edge—P230. Now commence the Border. 1st Row, 8, P3, 0, P, M*, P2; edge +O, T, P13, T, O, P; repeat from mark thus t 5 more times, centre O, P,O; ¢P, O, T, P13, T, O; repeat from mark thus + 5 more times—edge P; M*, P2.0FP4, * These made stitches are picked from the row below, and worked so as not to make a hole, as this extra stitch is required to make the pattern come in properly in the next row. ay, = THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 239 2nd Row, S edge, P2386. 3rd Row, 8, P3, O, P6, edge—tO, T, Pll, T, 0, P3; repeat from mark thus t 5 more times; centre O, P, O; {P3, O, T, P11, T, O; repeat from mark thus { 5 more times—edge P6, O, P4. 4th Row, S edge, P240. 5th Row, S$, P3, O, P8, edge—tO, T, P9, T, O, P5; repeat from mark thus t 5 more times; centre O, P, O; ¢P35, 0, T, P9, T, O; repeat from mark thus ¢ 5 more times—edge P8, O, P4. 6th Row, S edge, P244. 7th Row, S, P3, O, P10, edge—tO, T, P7, T. 0, P, 7.0; PsOxt: P; repeat from mark thus + 5 more times; centre 0; P; &; 4P;5; Ore, O,T, P, O, T, P7, T, O; repeat from mark thus { 5 more times—edge P10, O, P4. 8th Row, S edge, P248. 9th Row, $, P3, 0, P4, T, O, P3, O, T, P, edge—tO, T, P5, T, O, P, T, O, PS, O, T, P; repeat from mark thus t 5 more times; centre GP, Overs THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. a, 0, P38, 0, T,.P, 0,2, P5, T, O; repeat from mark thus + 5 more times—edge P, T, O, P3, O, T, P4, O, P4. 10th Row, S edge, P252. 11th Row, S, P3, O, P14, edge—tO, T, P3, T, O, P11; repeat from mark thus + 5 more times; centre O, P, O; tP1l, O, T)P3, TO: repeat from mark thus ¢ 5 more times—edge P14, O, P4, 12th Row, S edge, P256. 13th Row, S, P3, 0, P4, T, O, P, O, T, P, T, 0; Propper, edge—+O, T, P, 2, yt ets O, F, Orage, T, 0, P, 0, BP; repeat from mark thus + 5 more times; centre O, P, O; t-P;,-D, OPPO “TF, FE, OPP AG; T, P, O, T, P, T, O; repeat from mark thus T, 0, P, 0, T, P, T, 0, P, O, T, P4, 0, P4 14th Row, S edge, P260. 15th Row, S, P3, O, P4, T, O, P3, O, A, O, P3, O, T, P, edge—+0, A, OPeie O, P3, 0, A, O, P3, 0, T, P; repeat from mark thus + 5 more times ; centre O, P,O; 7P,T, 0, P’, 0, A; 0, P2, 0, Tt; P7-ORAS GE + ara { 5 more times—edge P, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 241 repeat from mark thus { 5 more times—edge P, T, 0, P3, O, A, 0; P3, O, T, P4, O, P4. 16th Row, S edge, P264. 17th Row, S, P3, 0, P4, T, 0; Dy Pee Os OT 7.6. B,.0,.7, F: T; OP; 0,..TyF , P, O; repeat from mark thus + 5 more times ; then P2.- centre O, P, O; then P2; tO, P, 0, T, |g > | Py Tah GU edge—t Nan Er 3 3+ pe T..O0; P.O. 5,83 TO; .,.O} T;: Ps T ; repeat from mark thus {5 more times—edge O, P, O, T, P, T, O, P, O, T, P, T; 9; T, P4, O, P4. 18th Row, S edge, P268. 19th Row, S, P3, O, P4 edge—t0O, P3, O, A, O, P3, O, A, O, P3, O, A; repeat from mark thus + 6 more times ; centre O;.P.O0As O, P3, 0, A, 9, 3.0, A, O, P3, O; repeat from mark thus + 6 more times—edge Pp4, O, P4. 20th Row, S edge, P272. 2ist Row, S, P38, 0, P38, T, O, edge—tT, P, TO. P,. 0,0 Bo: TT PGFs T, O, P, O; repeat from mark thus + 6 more times; then work P; Vou. IT. Q THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. centre O, P, O; then work P; tO, P, O T, P, T, O, P, T, O, P, O, T, P, O, T, P, T; repeat from mark thus ¢ 6 more times—edge O, T, P38, O, P4. 22nd Row, S edge, P276. 23rd Row, S, P3, O, P4, T, edge--tO, A, O, P, T, O, P38, O, T, P, O, A, O, P38; repeat from mark thus t 6 more times ; then work O, P2; centre O, P, O; then work P2, 0; { P3, O, A, O, P, T, O, P3, O, T, P, O, A, O; repeat from mark thus + 6 more times—edge T, P4, O, P4. 24th Row, S edge, P280. 25th Row, S, P3, O, P9, edge—tT, O, P5, O, T, P9; repeat from mark thus t 6 more times ; then work P ; centre O, P, O; then work P ; {P9, T, O, P5, 0, T ; repeat from mark ¢ 6 more times—edge P9, O, P4. 26th Row, S edge, P284. 27th Row, S, P3, O, P4, O, P2, T, O, P, T edge—tO, P7, O, T, P, O, T, P, T, O, P, T; repeat from mark thus + 6 more times ; then work P ; centre THE LADY'S WORK BOOK, 243 O, P, O; then work P; { oO, Py tS PB E,.0,P7; 0 ;(re- peat from mark { 6 more times —edge T, P, O, T, P2, O, P4, O, P4. 28th Row, S edge, P288. 29th Row, S, P3, O, P6, O, A, O, P, T, O edge—tP9, O, T, P,o,/A, O, P, T, O; repeat from this mark + 6 more times ; then work P2; centre O, P, O; then work P2; +O, T, P, O, A. DPE, O, P9 ; repeat from mark thus {| 6 more times—edge O, T, P, O, A, O, P6, O, P4. 30th Row, S edge, P292. 31st Row, S, P3, O, P10 edge—tT, O, P11, O, T, P38 ; repeat from mark thus t 6 more times; then work T, O, P4; centre O, P, O; then work P4, O, T ; +P3, T, O, P11, O, T ; repeat from mark thus { 6 more times—edge P10, O, P4. 32nd Row, S edge, P296. 33rd Row, 8, P3, O, P10 edge—tT, O, P13, O, T, P; repeat from mark thus + 6 more times: then T; O, P6; centre O, P, O; then P6, 0, T; {P, TQ, P13, O, T; repeat from mark thus + 6 more times—edge P10, O, P4. 244 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 34th Row, S edge, P300. 35th Row, 8, P3, O, P10, T edge—+O, P15, 0, A; repeat from mark thus + 6 more times ; then work O, P8; centre O, P, O; then work P8, O; fA, O, P15, O; repeat from mark thus { 6 more times—edge T, P10, O, P4. 36th Row, S edge, P3804. 37th Row, S, P3, O edge—plain to centre O, P, O; plain to edge O, P4. 38th Row, S edge all plain. 39th Row, S, P3, O, P2 edge—O, T; repeat O, T, to centre O, P,O; T, O; re- peat T, O to edge P2, O, P4. 40th Row, S edge, all plain. 41st Row, S, P3, O edge—plain to centre O, P, O; plain to edge O, P4. 42nd Row, S edge, all plain. 43rd Row, 8, P3, O edge—plain to centre O P, O; plain to edge O, P4. 44th Row, S edge, all plain. 45th Row, S, P3, O edge—plain to centre O, P, O; plain to edge O, P4. 46th Row, S edge, all plain. NA THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 245 Cast off. Wash, stretch, and dress it, as before noticed page 118; add the knotted fringe given for Shetland Shawl, or any other that is preferred. Observe—in stretching this Fichu, the sides of it must be stretched on a perfect angle line, and the neck, or cast-on part, is pinned, so as to take a half circle form from the centre of the line.—I shall give a miniature plan of stretching among the other engravings, as a guide. This receipt, worked just as above with No. 5 pins, makes a very pretty small sized Shawl for dress. CXIX.—CROCHET TURKISH PATTERN. (REPRES ‘ED IN PLATE AT THE BEGINNING OF THE BOOK.) This beautiful pattern 1s fitted for Table-covers, Footstools, Prie-Dieu Chairs, and Tidies; it is also used, when worked in thick fleecy, for small carpets, hearth- rugs, and many other purposes ; and, when worked in English embroidery wool, for mittens. For a chair, the pattern should be worked so as to run up the back oft he chair. For a table-cover, use 4 plies fleecy, and an ivory hook No. 10.* The * The size of needle or hook must be gauged just above the hook part, as that is the place on which the stitch is formed. 246 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. more the colours are diversified, the more foreign and rich the work appears. The following I consider a very good arrangement of colours. Ist Stripe, white ground; spots, 3 shades scarlet and 3 shades of green. 2nd Stripe, carmine ground ; spots, 2 shades silver grey, 1 of white, and 3 of green. 3rd Stripe, white, as first. 4th Stripe, light green ground; spots, 3 shades purple and 3 shades of yellow. 5th Stripe, white, as first. 6th Stripe, bright blue ground; spots, 3 shades pink and 3 gold colour. 7th Stripe, white, as first. 8th Stripe, gold colour ground; spots, 3 shades purple and 3 green. Then repeat from first stripe. Each of the grounding colours are intercepted by a sort of broken pattern, in claret colour, which gives great decision and character to the work. Cast on as many *chain stitches as measure the length of work you wish, and work as following receipt, all in tdouble tambour, (or French stitch). * For mode of working chain stitch, see Receipt CX XIII. Volume LI. + For mode of working double tambour, see Receipt CK XV. Volume I. BS a “i THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. ist Row, claret edge,* plain; all claret. Claret and white. 2nd Row, claret edge,—||P2, claret, P2, white; repeat from mark thus || to end of row. 3rd Row, white edge, P, white—||P2, claret, P2, white; repeat from mark thus || to end of row. 4th Row, white edge—the rest of the row all plain, white. White and darkest green. 5th Row, white edge—2 distinct stitches in white; || next stitch first loop white, second loop green; 1 distinct stitch in green, next stitch first loop green, second loop white ; then 4 distinct stitches in white; repeat from mark thus || to end of row. White and 2nd shade green. 6th Row, white edge—1 distinct white ; || next stitch first loop white, second loop * An edge stitch is worked by inserting your crochet hook into the first stitch, then bring the wool through it to the front, then on the loop you have just brought through work another loop; if this is not attended to you will lose a stitch on each row: THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. green ; 3 distinct stitches green; next stitch first loop green, second loop white ; 2 distinct stitches white ; repeat from mark thus || to end of row. White and lightest green. 7th Row, white edge—2 distinct stitches white ; || next stitch first loop white, second loop green ; 3 distinct stitches green; next stitch first loop green, second loop white; 2 distinct stitches white ; repeat from mark thus || to end of row. White and darkest scarlet. 8th Row, white edge—1 distinct stitch white ; || next stitch first loop white, second loop scarlet ; 3 distinct stitches scarlet ; next stitch first loop scarlet, second loop white; 2 distinct white; repeat from mark thus || to end of row. White and 2nd shade of scarlet. 9th Row, white edge— distinct stitches white ; |] next stitch first loop white, second loop scarlet ; 8 distinct stitches scarlet ; next stitch first loop scarlet, second loop white; 2 distinct white ; repeat from mark thus |] to end of row. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 249 White and lightest scarlet. 10th Row, white edge—3 distinct stitches white ; || next stitch first loop white, second loop scarlet ; 1 distinct stitch scarlet ; next stitch first loop scarlet, second loop white ; 4 distinct stitches white ; repeat from mark thus |] to end of row. 11th Row, white edge—rest of row all white. 12th Row, white edge—||P2, claret, P2, white ; repeat from mark thus || to end of row. 13th Row, white edge—1 distinct stitch white; |!P2, claret, P2 white ; repeat from mark thus || to end of row. Repeat from 1st row, working in the colours mentioned in the second stripe ; and so on with all the other stripes, in rotation as they are mentioned. CXX,.—CROCHET MUFF, This Muff is quite uncommon, and is one of the most simple and prettiest I have ever worked or designed, and different from any of my other Muffs. It is composed 250 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. of stripes of pure white, intersected by a narrower stripe of black, as following receipt will explain ; and is all worked in plain French Tambour stitch 3—for mode of work- ing which stitch, see the 125th receipt of Volume First. A. Boa of the same looks very well with this Muff. Two hanks of 9 plies black fleecy, and 4 hanks of white, are required. As the black wool is frequently not very fast; and comes off on to the other wool, to prevent this, it would be well to wash it first in warm water, having the soap mixed up with the water before the wool is put in; rinse it in luke-warm water ; put in a little common salt to harden the water; wring it well; then, again, in a cloth ; let it be well shaken ; and hung to dry. In working this Muff, I carry on a thread all the time I am working the white, as it makes the work more even. 1st Round, cast on 79 chain stitches ; join them by working the first and last stitches together, this makes 78 stitches. 2nd Round, plain French double tambour, and three more rounds. THE LADY Ss WORK BOOK. 251 6th Round, P3 white, *P3 black ; repeat to end of round. 7th Round, all plain black. 8th Round, +P3 black, P3 white. 9th Round, plain, and add 6 more rounds. Repeat from 6th row 2 more times ; then work again the 6th, 7th, and 8th rows ; finish with 4 plain white rows. Damp and iron it on the right side, having a thin piece of muslin between the iron and work; makethis up with a roll of wadding, of which one sheet and a half are re- quired; line it, and draw the work over it. Then draw up the arm parts until they are a quarter of a yard in circumference ; and sew on a check-twisted cord made of black and white wool—a little more than half a yard being required for both arm- holes. * If you wish your stitches to appear even, work thus :——Let the last loop of the stitch before the change ofa colour takes place, be black, the next two stitches all black, the third stitch the first loop black ; the finishing white ; and so repeat to end of row. + Observe the three white here come directly above the three black in the first row. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. CXXI.—LONG NET PURSE, CALLED DOUBLE NETTING. This Purse is worked with two needles light orange, and mazarine blue. and a round mesh of No. 13; and , and two colours of silk,—gold colour or Two hanks of common-sized twist of each colour, two middle-sized netting needles, are required, Cast on 108 stitches. Ist Row, P blue, P gold colour ; repeat to end of row; twist the two silks together before commencing the next row. 2nd Row, P gold colour, P blue; repeat to end of row; twist the two silks together before commencing the next row. You will perceive, by working the two rows, every loop that was worked in blue before, was again worked in blue in the second row, and the same with the gold colour. Continue working as 1st and 2nd rows then stretch it out on a purse-stretcher, dry; then join it up, drawing up the ends » until you have worked about 6 inches ; or pin it out, and damp it; leave it until . Add steel or gold rings and tassels THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. 253 CXXII.—SMALL NET NECKKERCHIEF. This Net is let out every row, to form the triangle. Increase one at the back, on first row; on the 2nd row there are three increased stitches, one on the first loop, then one on the loop that was let out on former row, and the third on the last loop, as following receipt will show. This Kerchief may be worked in fine black purse silk, or fine black netting silk ; or with Taylor’s white Persian cotton, No. 18. It is most beautiful when worked all different stitches, in stripes. Suppose 30 rows of plain net, then 4 rows of Grecian,* (as shown in plate No. 6, Vol. I. and explained in receipt No. 104); then 30 rows of leaf netting, (as plate No. 9, and explained receipt No. 107); then 4 rows of Grecian ; 86 rows of leaf net, (as plate No. 9, and explained receipt No, 107) ; then 4 rows of Grecian ; then 20 rows of raised net ; finish with 4 rows of Grecian, —Observe, the plates and receipts of explanation, are all in the first volume, * The f -sre form only two open rows of Grecian, 254 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Use for this, meshes Nos, 15 and 9. This may be worked with fine buffon silk, and then dyed and dressed; if wished white, in Taylor's Persian cotton, No. 18. If required larger than I have described, work one or more divisions of the leaf pattern, before commencing the raised netting. WORKING RECEIPT FOR PLAIN KERCHIEF,.—-FOUNDATION, 7 LOOPS. ist Row, plain. 2nd Row, 3 plain; *increase on middle stitch, then 3 plain, 3rd Row, increase a stitch on the first loop, then 2 plain; increase on middle stitch, then 3 plain; increase on last loop. Ath Row, 5 plain; increase a stitch on middle or small loop; 5 plain stitches, 5th Row, increase on first loop, then 4 plain ; increase on middle or small loop ; then 5 plain ; increase on the last loop, 6th Row, 7 plain ; increase on middle or small loop ; 7 plain. 7th Row, increase on first loop, then 6 plain ; increase on middle loop, then 7 plain ; increase on last loop. * To increase, is to work 2 stitches in one loop. Loy © Or or THE LADY'S WORK BOOK, 8th Row, P9; increase on middle or small stitch ; then P9. 9th Row, increase on first loop, then 8 plain ; increase on middle or small loop, then 9 plain ; increase on last loop. 10th Row, P11; increase on middle loop ; then P11. Repeat, always increasing, until you have made the Kerchief as large as you wish ; then take a large mesh, about half as broad again, and work one row, with two stitches in each loop, still lettmg out as before ; then one row small mesh, catching in the two stitches into one; then 5 plain rows; again, one row with large mesh, as before ; one row with small mesh, catching in the two loops; finish with 3 plain rows. Finish with a knotted fringe, (as described in receipt following the Shetland Shawl) ; or it may be worn without any finishing. CXXIII.—VERY USEFUL TIDY, OR FISH COVERING. These Tidies are most useful little appendages for many purposes ; they answer for throwing over the arms or backs of sofas, or chair-backs, to keep them clean ; and also look well for covering fish (but not as a napkin) when brought to table. 256 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. If worked for a Tidy, finish with an open edging or vandyke, and at each corner add a cut cotton tuft and tassel, which are easily combed out after being washed. [I shall give a very pretty edging for trimming it in the receipt immediately following this. Two ivory or bone pins of No. 12, and 4 hanks Dutch cotton of No. 14, are required, Cast on 92 stitches. Ist Row, S edge stitch—plain, and 7 more rows. 9th Row, S, P3 edge stitches—T, P3, T, P, O, By GA, Pa; T, P, 0; Bag; P2; repeat 3 more times ; edge P4, 10th Row, S, P3 edge stitches—pearl ; edge P4, llth Row, S, P38 edge stitches—T, P, T, P, O, P3,.0,°P, TP, T, PO,Paae, P2; repeat 3 more times ; edge P4. 12th Row, S, P3 edge stitches—pearl ; edge P4, 13th Row, S, P3 edge stitches—A, P, O, P5, 0, P, A, P; 0, P5, 0, P2; repeat 3 more times ; edge P4. 14th Row, S, P3 edge stitches—pearl ; edge P4, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. . 957 15th Row, S, P3, edge stitches—P2, O, P, OFT, bowl, by GP, 0, P, I, Ba; -T ; repeat 3 more times ; edge P4. 16th Row, S, P3, edge stitches—pearl ; edge P4. 17th Row, S$, P3, edge stitches—P2, O, P38, O, POTAP- SP; Oy R350, 2271; P, T; repeat 3 more times ; edge P4. 18th Row, S, P3, edge stitches—pearl ; edge P4. 19th Row, S, P3, edge stitches—P2, O, P5, O, P, A, P, 0, P5, 0, P, A; repeat 3 more times ; edge P4. 20th Row, S, P38, edge stitches—pearl ; edge P4. Repeat from 9th row; and continue working on until you have as much as a half more than the square; finish with 7 plain rows. Cast it off. CXXIV.—EDGING FOR TRIMMING TIDY. This Trimming looks very well for many purposes. Fora Tidy, use No. 16 Dutch cotton, and pins No. 13. When for lace edging, it is worked in fine linen thread, dD? and No. 21 needles. R Vou. Il. 258 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. , Cast on 9 stitches. Ist Row, Su, edge stitch—P2, O, T, 02, T, 02, T. 2nd Row, P2 edge stitches—*B, P2, B, P2, O, T, P. 3rd Row, Sua, edge stitch—P2, O, T, P6. 4th Row, Cast off the first two stitches; you have worked three stitches, therefore you must have eight stitches on your pin; work them thus, P5, O, T, P; then repeat from Ist row, until you have sufficient length for going round the Tidy. CXXV.—-CROCHET MUFF, IN IMITATION OF MINIVER FUR, OR COURT ERMINE. This Muff is spotted all over with little specks of black at equal distances, It is worked in double French tambour crochet, as described in the 125th Receipt of Volume I. Four hanks 9 plies white fleecy, and 2 black, and a hook No. 10, are required, ist Round, Cast on 78 chain stitches ; unite the first and last chain stitches to- * This B is worked on the last loop of the 02 of the former round. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 259 72 stitches, gether to make the round; by so doing, you will now have avs this, all the Muff is worked i in double tambour stitch. 2nd Round, *5 distinct stitches in white; 6th stitch, let the first loop of it be white, the second, or finishing loop, black ; 7th stitch same as 6th ; 8th stitch, first loop black, socom or finishing loop, all white; repeat as this all round. 3rd Row, all white. 4th Round, Ist stitch distinctly white ; { 2nd stitch, let the first loop of it be white the second black; 3rd stitch, same as second; 4th stitch, first loop black, then 5 stitches white; then repeat all round from the finishing white ; second stitch, marked thus 5th Round, all white. Repeat from 2nd round until you have worked about 3 8ths of a yard, then mal it up as the Muff before described. The same stitch looks well for boa, or cuffs (to be worn over the sleeve of a dress.) This is a very useful and economical Muff, as it washes well * At the beginning of the round, the joining stitch counts as one ol the 5 white stitches. 260 THE LADY S WORK BOOK. CXXVI.—RUSSIAN CUFFS, IN CROCHET. These Cuffs are worked all in one straight piece, with a turn-up cuff, (as shown in plate.) They are about five inches in length ; and the cuff is turned out to the wrong side, so as to work the turn-up part, which must be worked on the contrary side to the long piece. These Cuffs may either be worn above the sleeves ; or the long piece worn below the gown, and-the cuff only turned up over the sleeve; or they may be worn cuff part upwards, like the top of a gauntlet. These Cuffs are all worked in two plies of Berlin wool. If wished to resemble fur, grey may be used for imitation of chinchilla; a brown, for sable; white, for ermine; with a few tails of black wool, knit in crochet, to resemble the tail parts of the ermine. These Cuffs are very pretty when worked in shades of scarlet, blue, pink, or green, according to the taste of the wearer. The stitch runs in a slanting direction. It is a most useful stitch, and may be used for gentlemen’s Nightcaps, Over-alls for children, Mufts, Comforts, Boas, &c. Six shades of pink Berlin wool, one quarter-ounce of each shade, and a large g= Ny ; THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 261 ivory or steel hook, are required. The hook should gauge on the stem part, just above the hook part, No. 10 of gauge, as that is the part on which the stitch is formed. ‘The size of hook is very essential in crochet work. The Cuffs are worked in single stitch.* Working Receipt. Cast on 51 chain stitches, join them by uniting the first and last stitch together ; by so doing you have now 50 stitches. With Darkest shade. 1st Round, plain single stitch, and 3 more rounds; this is for the border part. 2nd Shade. 5th Round, P2, lift 2;+ repeat to end of row, and one row more. Work the 3rd, 4th, 5th, and Gth shades as the 2nd shade, and again work back % Single stitch is worked by inserting the hook into the next stitch, and drawing the thread from behind through the stitch, and through the loop that was on the hook. Every stitch is the same. + These stitches are worked simply thus,—instead of taking the top part of the stitch, as before, take the under part, it being the part that is next to you. 262 THE LADY'S WORK ROOK. to the darkest shade, by working 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st or darkest shades, in the same way as the 2nd shades have been done; then again repeat, working 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th shades, as before shown. This finishes the right side of work. Now turn the work outside in, in order to work the turn-up part of cuff. Darkest shade. Ist Round, plain, 2nd Round, P2, lift 2; repeat to end of row, and one row more. Then as before with 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th shades ; back again with the shades 5th, 4th, 8rd, 2nd; finish with darkest shade 4 plain rows. CXXVII.—PRETTY LITTLE SHOE FOR A BABY. This is a very simple Shoe, with open little stitch for stocking, and colour for Shoe part. It also has a turn over, like the Russian Ouff, at the top of the leg part, which gives it a very novel and pretty look. Two wires, No. 13, one hank of the finest white stocking-yarn ; and one hank of Scotch knitting floss in colour, for shoe part, are required ; the colour is worked in double wool, Cast on 50 stitches with colour. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 263 Ist Row, S edge, P2, B2; repeat to end of row, edge P. 2nd Row, S edge, P2, B2; repeat to end of row, edge P. 3rd Row, S edge, plain. 4th Row, S edge, pearl. 5th Row, S edge, T; repeat T, all this row, edge P. 6th Row, § edge, M*, P ; repeat M, P, to end of Row, edge P. Repeat from 8rd row once more. 11th Row, S edge, plain. Tie on the Whate. 12th Row, S edge, pearl. 13th Row, S edge, plain. 14th Row, S edge, P2, B2, to end of row, edge P. 15th Row, S edge, P2, B2, to end of row, edge P. Repeat as 14th and 15th rows 5 more times. % his made stitch is done by working a stitch between the slipped stitch and the plain one that fol- lows; it is part of the thread that the last row was worked with, and will pull with both stitches ; in working the remainder of the row it isalways between the two plain stitches. 264 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 26th Row, 8 edge, plain. 27th Row, S edge, pearl. 28th Row, S edge, T; repeat T, to end of row, edge P, 29th Row, S edge, M, P; repeat M, P, to end, edge P. Repeat from 26th row three more times. 42nd Row, S edge, plain. 43rd Row, S edge, pearl. Tie on the Double Colour, for the little strap part. 44th Row, S, T, edge—P10, T, P20, T, P10—edge T, P. 45th Row, S edge, rest plain, edge P. 46th Row, S, T, edge—P40—edge “asd a 47th Row, S edge, plain, 48th Row, S edge, P13—tie on the white, and work P16. Leave the blue, as it will be required to work from that part again ; this is for the instep, Lift the remaining 14 stitches on to a piece of thread ; they are for the other side of heel part :—then THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 265 S edge, B15. 49th Row, S edge, P15. 50th Row, S edge, B15. 51st Row, S edge, T, T, T, 1, Ey 2, T,.edge P. 52nd Row, S edge, M, P; repeat M, P, *edge P. 53rd Row, S edge, plain. 54th Row, S edge, pearl. Repeat from 51st row 4. more times, then cast off the instep. Now work with the double blue wool that is attached, first the blue stitch which the first stitch of the instep is worked on, then pick up and work 10 stitches from the side of the white instep you have just worked ; then cast on 11 extra stitches (with blue); then work back this row. Your number of stitches should be 36 in all, from the toe to heel, Having done this, work the next row from heel to toe part as follows :— * Observe, not to make the M before the edge P, as by doing so you would have 17 stitches instead of 16, 266 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Ist Row, S edge, P35; then work from heel to toe. 2nd Row, S edge, P35; repeat these 2 rows two more times, 7th Row, S edge, P32, T, P; this is the intakes for toe part. 8th Row, S edge, plain. 9th Row, S edge, plain, T, P, toe. 10th Row, S edge, plain. 11th Row, S edge, T, plain, T, P, toe, 12th Row, S edge, plain. 13th Row, S edge, T, plain, T, T, P, toe. 14th Row, S edge, plain. 15th Row, S edge, T, T, plain, T, T, P, toe. 16th Row, S edge, plain. 17th Row, S edge, T, plain, T, T, P, toe. 18th Row, S edge, plain. 19th Row, S edge, plain, T, P, toe. 20th Row, S edge, plain. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 267 Cast off, There should be (if right taken in) 21 stitches on the pin before casting off. Now tie on the blue wool (you have just cast off with) to the toe-part, and pick up and work the 11 extra stitches that were cast on before; then work them back again, as follows :— 1st Row, P11; then make a stitch at the end, by working a stitch from the row below, Next row work as follows : 2nd Row, S edge, P11. 8rd Row, S edge, P11; make a stitch as before. 4th Row, S edge, P12. 5th Row, S edge, P12; make a stitch as before, 6th Row, S edge, P13; repeat in the same way until you have 18 stitches on your pin, then decrease that toe part as follows. 7th Row, S edge, P14, T, P. 8th Row, S edge, P16; repeat as the two last rows until you have brought it to 10 stitches; then pick up and work 11 white side stitches, and one blue, then the 14 stitches that are on the thread ; work back this row. There should be in this row 36 stitches in all from heel to toe. THE LADY'S WORK Book. 9th Row, S edge, P35, from toe to heel. 10th Row, S edge, P35, from heel to toe; repeat these two rows 2 more times. 15th Row, S edge—T, toe ; P33, to heel. 16th Row, S edge—plain. 17th Row, S edge—T, toe; P32, to heel. 18th Row, S edge—plain. 19th Row, S edge—T, toe, P2307 Op: 20th Row, S edge—plain. 21st Row, S edge—T, T, toe; plain to heel all but A ee 2) 22nd Row, S edge—plain. 23rd Row, S edge—T, T, toe; plain to heel all but Phe PR: 24th Row, S edge—plain. 25th Row, S edge—T, T, toc; plain to heel all but Tae, 26th Row, S edge—plain. 27th Row, S edge—T, toc; plain to end. 28th Row, S edge—plain ; then cast off. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 269 You should have 21 stitches on the pin before casting off. Sew the blue part and the white instep part that was cast off, together. Commence to sew the “Shoe from top of leg part down to the sole; then sew up to the top of the slanting edge at toe part, just to the top of intakes ; then turn down the pointed piece at front of toe part, and sew the point of it in, just where you have sewed up to; then sew each side of it to the side of shoe that remains unsewn. This point, if properly sewed in, forms @ three-cornered gusset, by which it forms a very pretty square toe to shoe part. CXXVIII.—KNIT SPENCER FOR A CHILD OF ABOUT A YEAR OLD, OR MORE. One hank of 4 plies Lady Betty, or three plies fleecy ; and 2 bone pins of No. 8, are required. If for a child of two years, or older, use pins No. 6. This is a very useful receipt, as it serves for the model of a larger Spencer. Cast on 34 stitches for front. 1st Row, 8, plain. 3rd Row, $, 0, T, Ps repeat O, T 2nd Row, §, plain. P, to end of row. 270 THE LADY'S WORK ROOK. 4th Row, S, plain, and 1 more row. 6th Row, S, P2, O, rest of row plain. 7th Row, S, plain. 8th Row, S, P3, O, rest plain. 9th Row, S, plain. 10th Row, S, P4, O, rest plain. 11th Row, S, plain. 12th Row, 8S, P5, O, rest plain. 13th Row, S, plain, 14th Row, S, P6, O, rest plain. 15th Row, S, plain. 16th Row, S, P7, O, rest plain, 17th Row, §, plain. 18th Row, S, P8, O, rest plain, 19th Row, S, plain, 20th Row, S, P9, O, rest plain. 21st Row, S, plain. 22nd Row, S, P10,-O, rest plain. 23rd Row, S, plain, 24th Row, S, Pl 1, O, rest plain. 25th Row, S, plain. 26th Row, 8, Pl 2, O, rest plain. 27th Row, §, plain. 28th Row, S, P13, O, rest plain. 29th Row, §, plain, and 1 more row. 31st Row, S, cast off 15 stitches ; knit P31, and 19 more rows, 51st Row, S, P28, T. 52nd Row, S, plain. 58rd Row, S, P28, T. 54th Row, S, plain. \_44 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 271 Repeat, with pink, as the last 2 rows until you have only 20 stitches. Cast it off. Pick up all the stitches down the front, and work them, in order to confine the edge; then work 8 plain rows. This finishes one front. Cast it off. The other is worked exactly the same, For the back part cast on 20 stitches. 1st Row, S, plain. | 16th Row, S, P2, 0, P20, O, P38. 2nd Row, §, plain. 17th Row, S, plain. 3rd Row, S, P2, O, T, P; repeat O, 18th Row, S, P2, O, P22, O, P3. T, P, to end of row. 19th Row, §, plain, 4th Row, S, plain, and 4 more rows. | 920th Row, S, P2, O, P24, O, Pa: 9th Row, S, P2, O, P14, O, Ps. Qist Row, S, plain. 10th Row, §S, plain, and 1 more row. | 22nd Row, S, P2, O, P26, O, P3. 12th Row, S, P2, 0, P16, O, P3. | 28rd Row, S, plain. 13th Row, §, plain. 24th Row, S, P2, O, P28, O, P3. 14th Row, S, P2, O, P18, O, P3. | 25th Row, §, plain. 15th Row, §, plain. | 26th Row, S, P2, 0, P30, 0, P3. 272 27th Row, S, plain. 28th Row, S, P2, O, P32, O, P3. 29th Row, S, plain. 30th Row, S, P2, 0, P34, 0, P3. 3lst Row, S, plain, and 9 more rows. 41st Row, S, T, T,O, P32, O, T, T, P. 42nd Row, S, plain, 43rd. Row, S, T, T, O, P30, O, T, T, P. 44th Row, S, plain. 45th Row, S, T, T, O, P28, O, T, T, P- 46th Row, S, plain. 47th Row, 8, T, T, O, P26, O, T, T, P. 48th Row, S, plain. 49th Row, S, T, T, O, P24, O, T, T, P. | “THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. 50th Row, S, plain. 51st: Row, 8, TF, T,O, P22; 0, T, TP. 52nd Row, S, plain. 58rd Row, S, T, T, O, P20, O, T, T, P. 54th Row, S, plain. 55th Row, S, T, T, O, P18, O, T, T, P. 56th Row, §, plain. 57th Row, S, T, T, O, P16, O, T, T, P. 58th Row, S, plain. 59th Row, 8S, T, T, O, P14, O, T, T, P. 60th Row, S, plain. 61st Row,S; T,/T, 0, P12, OR Fue 62nd Row, S, plain. 63rd Row, Cast it off. Join the back and fronts together, by sewing up the seams; the first seam sewn up should be the shoulder one ; the last cast off part of the front is then sewn to THE LADY'S WORK BOOK, 2 the shoulder part of the back ; next sew up the short side of the front (which is the part below the arm) to the other side of back ; then pick up and work all the stitches round the neck part ; work another row plain ; then one row of O, T, P, for a ribbon to draw it; then two plain rows. Cast it off. Receipt for Sleeve.—Cast on 24 stitches. 1st Row, S, plain. 32nd Row, S, P38, T, P2. 2nd Row, S, P21, *M, P2. 38rd Row, S, P87, T, P2. 8rd Row, S, P22, M, P2; repeat as 34th Row, S, plain, and 3 more rows. 2nd and 3rd rows until you have 38th Row, S, P36, T, P2. 46 stitches, being 20 more rows. 39th Row, S, P35, T, P2. 24th Row, §S, plain. 40th Row, S, plain, and 3 more rows. 25th Row, S, plain, T. 44th Row, S, P34, T, P2. 26th Row, S, P39, T, P2. 45th Row, S, P33, T, P2. 27th Row, S, P39, T, P2. | 46th Row, S, plain, and 3 more rows. 28th Row, §, plain, and 3 more rows. | 50th Row, S, P32, T, P2. Vou Tr * Make a stitch, by picking up one from the row below, and work it. OL. . 274 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 51st Row, 8, P31, T, P2. | 80th Row, S, P22, T, Pa. 52nd Row, §S, plain, and 3 more rows. 81st Row, S, P21, T, P2. 56th Row, S, P30; T).P2: 82nd Row, S, plain, and 3 more rows. 57th Row, 8, P29, T, P2. 86th Row, S edge, O, T, P; repeat to 58th Row, S, plain, and 8 more rows, end of row. 62nd Row, S, P28, T, P2. | 87th Row, S, plain. 68rd Row, 8, P27, T, P2. | 88th Row, tie on pink, or any other 64th Row, S, plain, and 3 more rows. colour that is preferred for the 68th Row, S, P26, T, P2. cuff, and work P, B, to end of 69th Row, S, P25, T, P2. | row; S edge, B, P. 70th Row, S, plain, and 8 more rows. 89th Row, P, B, to end of row; repeat 74th Row, 8, P24, T, P2. as the last 2 rows 4 more times, 75th Row, S, P23, T, P2. being in all of pink 10 rows, 76th Row, S, plain, and 3 more rows. _| then cast it off. Sew up the sleeves, and attach them to the body. Draw a pink ribbon through the neck and bottom of the waist, and also round the hand part. bo ~I Vt {HE LADY S WORK BOOK. CXXIX.~VERY HANDSOME SHORT KNIT PURSE. This Purse is composed of steel beads, and claret or dark brown purse twist. The steel beads are arranged so as to form a sort of little basket pattern all over the purse. Three hanks of purse silk of third size, and 18 rows of steel beads No. 7, are required. Cast on 130 stitches, and work with 4 wires of No, 22. The beads must be previously strung on the silk before commencing. ist Round, P10, slip a bead down ; repeat all round. 2nd Round, T, P6, T, slip 3 beads down ; repeat all round. 8rd Round, T, P4, T, slip 5 beads down ; repeat all round. 4th Round, T, P2, T, slip 7 beads down ; repeat all round. 5th Round, T, T, slip 9 beads down ; repeat all round. 6th Round, P, slip a bead down, P8; repeat all round.* 7th Round, tslip 3 beads down, T, P6, T ; repeat all round. * At the end of this round you will be deficient a stitch ; work it from off the following wire, 80 as to make the pattern come in properly. + At the end of each wire in this round you will be deficient a stitch ; ++ must be taken from off the following wire. 276 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 8th Round, slip 5 beads down, T, P4, T; repeat all round. 9th Round, slip 7 beads down, T, [2 OA repeat all round. 10th Round, slip 9 beads down, T, T ; repeat all round. Before commencing the 11th round, lift off the 1 the first wire of the 11th round. 11th Round, P, cast on 8 stitches, P, slip a bead. down. Repeat from 2nd round, until you have made the Purse Cast it off, and draw up the bottom part ; add asteel tassel ast stitch of the 10th row on to as long as you wish it. and handsome steel snap. CXXX.—VERY BEAUTIFUL AND RICH CROCHET LONG PURSE, (4s SHOWN IN PLATE AT BEGINNING OF BOOK,) Composed of three stripes running along the purse from end to end. The first stripe is claret, with a pattern of steel or gold beads ; pale green, with a beautiful coloured pattern, worked claret, with pattern same as the first stripe. rows of open stitch, the first white, the secon the centre, or broad stripe, is all in silks ; the third stripe is Between each stripe intervene three 1 black, and the third white. SS’ THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 2 This Purse is worked round, length-ways, and, when finished, is laid flat, or double with the two sides together. By this you have the black or original cast-on stitches doubled, one half of the number for one side, the other half for the other ; then, with white silk, one row of open stitch is worked, by inserting the needle through both sides, which joins them together, and finishes that side. The same is done to the opposite side of the Purse, as described in the working receipt. It may be made up by drawing in the end part where the rounds were commenced at, leaving the other end flat, with a tassel at each corner, so that the silver and the gold end may be dis- tinctly marked ; or it may be made up, both ends flat, or both drawn in, as taste dictates. This Purse is all worked in the third sized purse silk, it being the next size tothe very finest that is made. The needle must be a fine steel hook with the ivory screw handle. Six rows of No. 6 gold beads, four hanks of claret silk, two of light green, two white, one of each of the other colours, (being three shades of deep to light green, three shades scarlet, three shades purple, and two shades of yellow,) and two hanks of black, are required. 278 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Cast on 869 chain stitches in black, (this is for both sides of the Purse, length ways, each side being in length 184 stitches, but, being worked round, they are all cast on at once); join the first and last chain stitches together. By joining you will now have 368 stitches in all. Some ladies begin their first row on a foundation of fine bobbin net. When you have worked according to the following receipt, and got to the middle of the broad stripe, you must leave an open of about a third of one side of Purse, for admitting the money ; thus :—instead of casting on the number of stitches, which is very usually done for the other side of open part, they are worked over the threads you are carrying on, as receipt in its proper place will describe, Ist Round, *open stitch in black. 2nd Round, open stitch in white ; this finishes first open stripe. Tie on the claret, and work the claret stripe as follows, in plain double tambour stitch, (as described in the 125th Receipt, Vol. I.) with gold beads. * For mode of working, refer to Receipt 127 of Volume lL THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 279 1st Round, *edge stitch, plain claret. 2nd Round, plain claret. 8rd Round, work with gold beads, as engraved pattern at beginning of this book, which is the star of beads. Also the 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th, rounds, with beads. 8th and 9th reunds, in claret ; this finishes the claret stripe. +Tie on the white, and work the open stripe as follows :— 1st Round, open stitch, in white. 2nd Round, open stitch in black. * Turn the work in your hand and work this round back again; but before doing which, work an edge stitch; it is done by simply making a single loop on the one that is already on your needle, just in the way you do a chain stitch. If thisis not done when it is turned, every row will be each deficient a stitch ; by turning the work it makes the beads come in the right side of the purse ; otherwise, the beads being more easily worked in at the back part of the stitch, they would consequently all be to the back part of the purse. After this row you always work round and round; it is only turned when you come to the next open row, + Again turn the work, and work back this round, and make an edge stitch ; but instead of making one loop or chain stitch, make two, as this open stitch is higher than the plain rows. 280 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 3rd Round, open stitch, white ; this finishes the open stripe. Tie on the claret, and work the broad pattern as in the engraving. Ist Round, plain claret. 2nd Round, P2, claret, and P2, light grounding green ; repeat all round. 3rd Round, all light grounding green. 4th Round, all worked in the second lightest green of the three shades. 5th Round, ditto, ditto, all light green ground. 6th Round, pattern worked in lightest shade of the three shades of green. 7th Round, ditto, ditto, second shade of the green. 8th Round, ditto, ditto, darkest shade of green, and darkest scarlet. 9th Round, pattern worked in the darkest green, and second scarlet on this round. Work 62 stitches as the pattern ; the open part must then be left; so, therefore, instead of working as before on to the last row, work 60 stitches round the threads that you are carrying on with ; this is the centre part of one side of the Purse, which forms the opening for ad- mitting the money ; then work the remaining 62 stitches of that side according to the pattern as before, also the other side of the Purse. 10th 11th 12th 13th 14th 15th 16th 17th 18th THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 281 Round, pattern worked in the darkest purple, darkest green, and lightest scarlet. Round, pattern worked in the second purple, and darkest green. Round, pattern worked in the lightest purple, and darkest yellow. Round, pattern worked in the lightest yellow. Round, all worked in the light green ground. Round, all worked in the second shade of green. Round, all worked in the light green ground. Round, P2, claret, P2, green ground. Round, all worked in the claret. This finishes broad stripe. Tie on the white, and work again the open stripe as follows: — Ist Round, open stitch in white. 2nd Round, open stitch in black. 3rd Round, open stitch in white. Tie on the claret, and work the claret stripe as follows :— Ist Round, *edge stitch, plain, * Turn the work, and make an edge stitch, as described in first note. 282 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 2nd Round, plain. 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th Rounds, with beads, as pattern. 8th Round, plain. 9th Round, plain. This finishes the 2nd claret stripe. Tie on the white, and again work the open stripe, as follows :— Ist Round, +open round, white. 2nd Round, open round, black. “ This finishes the round working of the Purse ; lay it flat, and unite the black round you have just finished, by working both ed ges together, which you do by working an open row with white, catching in both edges as you work it ; do the same with the other side, which finishes the Purse. These finishing white rows I have not shown in the engraving. 33 CXXXI.—CROCHET LONG PURSB. Work in table-cover pattern, but with this difference, you insert the open row + Again turn the work, as described in second note. - THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 283 between, and work the open stripe in extra fine gold and silver twist. If not wished round, cast on 184 stitches, and cut off your thread at the end of every row, and begin again at the other end. CXXXII.—_GERMAN CROCHET PATTERN FOR SHOE, (as ENGRAVING AT BEGINNING OF BOOK. ) This pattern is composed alternately of a narrow and a broad stripe ; the narrow stripe is of a scarlet ground, with green balls, the broad stripe is of a light green or light blue ground; the patterns are in lilac, greens, yellows, and scarlet ; the rows that divide the stripes are worked in black. The paper shape of a shoo should be had from a shoemaker, and the work let out or taken in according to its form ;—those I have done have all been worked in one piece, and joined up the back of the heel. This Shoe is worked in Berlin wool, with a fine ivory hook. The stripes all run across the instep, and consequently up the piece that forms the back part of shoe. Observe, every row your thread or threads must be cut off; then run them neatly with a needle on the wrong side, The Shoe ‘s commenced at the toe part, by 284 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. casting on with black as many chain stitches as are sufficient for the narrow par of the toe, which should be about 22 or 24 stitches, Work the whole shoe in double tambour stitch, (as receipt 139, Vol. I.) ; and the patterns according to the engraving. When you have finished the forefoot part, continue and work the side piece or the heel part; then the other side piece as tl the wool, and working it from the fore foot part,) exe join up the heel part together on the wrong side. Y them made up by a shoemaker. 1e one now done, (by tying on ctly like the other side; then ‘ou may crochet a sole, or have Some ladies work a crochet sole in double wool, then sew a slight leather one over it, and line the whole shoe with fleecy hosiery, (which may be had at the hosier’s,) and trim it with fur. These Shoes look very handsome when done in extra coarse purse twist, CXXXIII.—OVERALL BOOT. A Boot may be worked in the same way as the Shoe, by ¢ etting a paper pattern from the shoemaker ; the forefoot part in one piece, and the back part in another, it} Any of the crochet patterns will do for it, but the narrowest patterns for a table-cover, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK, 285 and the narrowest for the shoe pattern, look well worked alternately. The Boot may be lined and bound round with fur, tied with ribbons like a fur boot, and have a leather sole put on by a shoemaker. It may be worked in four plies fleecy. CXXXIV. —CARRIAGE FOOT BASKET, OR CHANCELIERE. A paper pattern of the Basket should be cut correctly from the newest and most approved shape; it is then worked in any of the crochet patterns represented in the engraving at the beginning of the book; care being taken to let out or take in according to the paper shape. They are usually worked in four-plies fleecy, with a No. 10 hook. When worked, the foundation is made of pasteboard, exactly the shape of the outside, each piece being distinctly covered with skirt lining, then sewn together. After the pasteboard is put in, the whole is merely stuffed with fine combed wool or down, between the pasteboard and the knit lining, which is knit exactly as the shape of the outside. A leather bottom for the outside looks best. This lining is knit in the Russian stitch, which is the same as the hassocks are generally worked in. The trimming that is round the open part may be worked 286 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. like the Miniver Fur Muff, as Receipt 125 of this volume, or it can be made of wool worked in the style of a fringe, by taking two plies of white 9 plies fleecy, or any other colour, to represent the colour of fur. You require a flat boxwood mesh, of 13 inches wide, and a piece of wire about the thickness of No. 20 common sewing cotton. Take two lengths of it, and wind them on a winder, then tie the ends of the wool and them topethor, and worked as follows:—Take the mesh and the ends of the wool that were tied together into your left hand, holding the mesh with the fore finger and thumb; have a winder, with the wire on it, next ridlie forefinger, the other next the thumb; then put the wool over the mesh, bringing it down Lota the two wires; then bring the wire from the fore-finger over to the thumb, and the wire that is at the thumb over to’ the fore-finger, which binds in the wool, and repeat in this manner, putting the wool over the mesh, and bringing it down between the wire. Gomtinns until you have sufficient length to go rosea the open part, then work two more lengths, and sew the three all together, which makes it very thick like fur. If done in white, a loop or two of black here and there looks like ermine. The wool should all be cut after it is sewn on. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 287 This Basket should be cast on at the narrow part of the front, or toe part, and worked up to the top, or open part, and let out or taken in as the shape may re- quire. The stripes lie across the front, and round the band part, At the end of each row, you must cut off your thread or threads. CXXXV.—VERY HANDSOME TRIANGULAR KNIT SHAWL, Composed of four open white stripes, and three open shaded coloured stripes ; each meeting, and forming an angle point at the centre or back part of the Shawl, —which looks very well. The border is of close knitting, on a black ground ; the pattern is a row of scarlet pines, with a small wreath of green leaves at each side, (as shown in engraving at beginning of this Volume.) This Shawl is all knit in English embroidery wool, which is preferable to German wool for knitting, as it does not get matted when washed. This Shawl is formed and let out exactly in the same way as the Fichu, Receipt 118th of this Volume ; always letting out four extra stitches each front row, (or row on which the pattern is worked.) Observe, always before making the extra 288 THE LADY S WORK BOOK. stitch at this side, to work S, P3, and after it, at the other side of Shawl, P4; which is to make a little edge down the slanting sides of the Shawl. Cast on 25 stitches with white, and knit the stripes in succession, as follows in their various stitches ; always bearing in mind, in all of them, the 4 extra stitches in the front row. The first one is made by making an O after the S, P3, at the edge. The two centre extra stitches are O, P, O. The other edge O, P4, making, in all, four extra stitches. Every white stripe is about five inches in depth. ‘Two ivory pins of No. 8; one quarter pound white wool, one hank of each shade, and two hanks of black, are required. Ist stripe, White. Work in stitch O, T, until the stripe is about 5 inches. 2nd stripe, in eight shades of Scarlet. Beginning with the darkest, and working two rows each shade on to the lightest, and receding again to the darkest ; making, in all, 30 rows. This coloured stripe is worked in stitch described in 137th Receipt, Volume I. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 289 3rd stripe, or 2nd White. Work in stitch as 52nd Receipt, Volume I. 4th stripe, or 2nd of Colour, in eight shades of green, Two rows of each, same as scarlet stripe. Work in stitch as 148th Receipt, Volume I. 5th stripe, or 8rd White. Spider-net as 50th Receipt, Volume 1. 6th stripe, or 8rd of colour, in eight shades of Scarlet. Two row of each, as before; worked in stitch as 146th Receipt, Volume I. Tth stripe, or 4th White. Worked in stitch as 56th Receipt of this Volume. Border, of Black ground. Worked in plain stitch, with pattern, as engraving at beginning of this Volume. Stretch and damp the Shawl with a little dissolved gum Arabic ; finish with a knit or knotted fringe, as described for the Shetland Shawl. « Vou. IT, 290 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. CXXXVI.—VERY BEAUTIFUL LONG NET PURSE. AS ENGRAVING AT BEGINNING OF THIS VOLUME, This Purse is composed of claret and blue French purse silks, on reels, with stripe pattern worked in steel or gold beads, running from one end of the Purse to the other, and an alternate piece of open stitch, or plain, about half as broad as the pattern stripe. The pattern, something like border pattern of Shawl, is worked from the engraving at the beginning of this book. It is all net with a treple long darning needle, fine enough for the beads to pass freely over it. Two reels of silk, a mesh of No. 20, and, I should think, about 12 rows beads of No. 7, are re- quired. Cast on 110 stitches. 1st Row, net 40 plain stitches, then 30 stitches with a *bead each stitch, this is for the open part of the Purse; then 40 plain stitches. * Before working the stitch, thread a bead, bring it up in front of the mesh, and keep it there until you have made the knot; then bring the needle and thread down at the back of the mesh, and pass the point of the needle up through the bead that is on the front of the mesh, draw up the needle and thread through it, which pulls the bead quite up to the knot you have just made. (All beads net should be worked in this way, otherwise they will move about on the thread.) Every bead stitch is worked in this way. . — THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 291 2nd, 8rd, 4th, and 5th Rows, plain. 6th Row, commence the pattern as represented in engraving ;—the first row of which is a bead every stitch; the second a bead stitch and a plain stitch alternately ; and so on as the pattern of this stripe. Then 8 Rows quite plain. This plain part should be about half the width of the pattern stripe. Repeat from the 6th row, it being the pattern stripe, and this plain part, two more timest ; then the pattern stripe and five rows, exactly as at the beginning,—the last row of which has stecl beads at the open part, the same as the first row. Stretch this on a purse stretcher, (or, if preferred, slightly damping and pining it out until throughly dry, answers the same purpose ;) then join it up; add rings and tassels of steel or gold to correspond with the beads used. + But observe, in repeating it for the first time, let there be 16 rows of plain instead of 8, as this forms the half of the purse, and would not look uniform when finished, if the 16 rows were not worked here 292 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. CXXXVII—ANOTHER VERY BEAUTIFUL LONG NET PURSE, AS REPRESENTED IN ENGRAVING, Worked in white purse silk and gold beads, or any other colour that is preferred. Black and gold, claret and gold, green and gold, dark blue and gold, purple and gold, all look well. The ends may be of one colour, the centre in any other, if preferred. When the white purse is soiled, it can easily be washed, without impairing the look of the purse. When finished, net up the sides and sew up the open part for the money, before stretching it on the stretcher ; damp it before putting it on, then leave it till quite dry. All netting looks the better after being damped and stretched. A purse stretcher can be had of any of the fancy-work shops. Four hanks of netting silk of the 3rd size, a treple long darning needle, and about 12 rows of gold beads No. 7, are required, This Purse is worked round, on a foundation of 80 stitches, having 16 plain rows worked before commencing the vandyke pattern, in *beads. There should be 20 points or vandykes, and 10 of the double arrows in the round of the purse, as represented * For mode of working in beads, see receipt. No. 186, page 290 of this Volume. Ce : a SS THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 293 between the two rows of vandykes in the engraving. When the pattern is completed, work 16 plain rows ; this forms one end of the purse. Now commence the open part of the purse for the money, by working backwards and forwards for about three inches, quite plain, but always working the first two stitches of each row with beads ; then work the other side exactly as the one described. Add tassels and rings to suit, CXXXVIII.—PATTERN FOR A BABY’S CROCHET BLANKET, A COVERLET FOR A CARRIAGE, A WRAPPER FOR AN INVALID, OR A TIPPIS DE PIED, OR TABLE COVER; ; (AS ENGRAVING AT BEGINNING OF THIS BOOK.) This Coverlet is worked in blue and white 4 plies fleecy ; the blue is the pattern, the white the ground, with the Grecian border worked in blue. About one yard wide, and one yard and a quarter long, is the usual size. CXXXIX.—VERY HANDSOME CROCHET BAG, WORKED IN THE SAME PATTERN AS BABY’S BLANKET, AS SHOWN IN ENGRAVING. This Bag may be worked in gold beads for the Grecian border, and a dark claret ey, or purple for the ground of it, the centre pattern in gold beads with a coloured ground—say light green, light blue, or white, or any other colour that is preferred. Work with the common sized purse twist, and No. 10 gold beads. 294 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. CXL.—KNIT BLANKET FOR BABY. This Blanket is knit from the Engraving for Baby Crochet Blanket, at beginning of book. Work with 4 plies fleecy, and No. 7 ivory pins. This Blanket should be about a yard wide, and a yard and a quarter long. CXLI.—TABLE COVER WORKED IN CROSS STITCH ON COARSE CANVASS, DESIGN TAKEN FROM ENGRAVING OF BABY’S CROCHET BLANKET, This Table Cover is very useful in using up any odds and ends of wool that may have accumulated from time to time, by working every star in different colours, studying, of course, as much as possible the harmony of colours. The border should all be worked in one colour, on a white ground. The ground of the centre part of Table-Cover should be black, or of a very dark colour. Use No, 30 English canvass, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 295 and two plies of wool ; if wished coarser, use No. 24 canvass, and 3 plies of wool. If wished for a bag, use No. 45, and 1 ply of wool. These numbers of canvass for cross stitch may serve as guides for any piece of work where one, two, or three plies of wool are wished to be used. CXLII.—DICED NET PURSE. This very pretty Purse is worked in alternate dices of black and a lightish green, or any other colour preferred, with asmall pattern of steel beads worked on the black squares ; as shown in the engraving at beginning of book. Three hanks of each colour of silk, and a mesh No. 17, are required. This Receipt also makes a pretty Bag, by making the dices and the pattern for the beads larger ; it is also most useful in working (without beads,) Shawls, Scarfs, D’oyleys, Coverlets, Gentlemen’s Night-Caps, &c. First Green Dice, for Purse. Have a foundation of 98 stitches. Then tie the light green on to the 8th loop of 296 THE LADY'S WORK 200K. the foundation, and work back to the first loop, as follows,—each dice having seven stitches in length, and 7 rows in depth. Ist Row, work 7 stitches. 2nd Row, back again, working the 7 stitches plain. Continue working as these 2 rows, until you have 7 rows worked ; this concludes the first green dice. Cut off the green, First Black Dice. Tie the black on to the 8th loop of the foundation from the green, and work as follows :— Ist Row, 7 plain stitches; the last stitch of which brings you to the loop next to the green of last dices. Put the point of needle down through the first loop of the green, so as to join the dices: (this is not worked, only linked in, so as to untie the two colours.) This must be done again at the end of the 8rd, 5th, and 7th rows. 2nd Row, P7. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 297 3rd Row, P2, *2 bead stitches, P3 ; link in as Ist row. 4th Row, P2, 3 bead stitches, P2. 5th Row, P2, 2 bead stitches, P3; link in as Ist row. 6th Row, P7. 7th Row, P7; link in as first row. This finishes the first black dice. Do not cut off the thread, but work the next black dice under the last green, by working the 7 black on the last row of the green, as following receipt will explain. Second Black Dice. 1st Row, P7; exactly under the green dice. 2nd Row, P7. 3rd Row, P2, 2 bead stitches, P3. 4th Row, P2, 3 bead stitches, P2. 5th Row, P2, 2 bead stitches, P3. 6th Row, plain. 7th Row, plain; this finishes the second black. * For mode of working in the beads, see 136th Receipt of this Volume. 298 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Second Green Dice. Now. tie on the green, and work as first green dice, already described, thus— having tied it 8 loops apart from the last black loop on the foundation, work back- wards and forwards for 7 rows ; always linking in the green with the black on the Ist, 3rd, 5th, and 7th rows. Then work a row of green dices, without cutting off the thread, exactly under the black ones ; always observing to link in as before. When the row of green dices is worked, tie on the black, as before, on the 8th loop apart from last green, and work exactly as before, with the bead pattern; always observing to link in as formerly. So continue working until you have worked up all the founda- tion; when this is done, commence on the top of the last square that finished the foundation, and end with working on the second-last dice of each row successively, so as to make the other side of the Purse quite even with the foundation side. Every tow of dices will now diminish in number, until you have only one, which work; then join up the Purse. Damp it, and stretch it on a purse-stretcher. The mouth, or open part for the money, should be sewn up, so as to make it stretch well,—nothing but the ends being left open while on the stretcher. When thoroughly dry, take it off, and THE LADY 8 WORK BOOK. 299 add rings and tassels to suit. Make it up flat, with four little tassels, one at each corner of the Purse. The foundation side and the one opposite are sewn together, or the long way of the Purse. CXLIIL—HANDSOME CROCHET BAG. The bottom of this Bag is a star worked in gold twist, in double tambour stitch, (as described in 125th Receipt of Volume I.) on adark mazarine blue ground. The star part is worked as the tambour purse, (134th Receipt of Volume I.); then an open round of open stitch in gold twist, (which is worked as described in 128th Receipt of Volume I.); then a stripe of crimson, in double tambour stitch, about an inch broad; then one row plain gold and an open row of gold; and again another stripe of double tambour, but in blue, the same colour as the ground of the star. One plain row of gold, and an open row of gold. Repeat the stripes of colour and gold alternately, until you haye made the Bag as long as you wish. It must finish with the gold. Draw it with gold cord, and add gold tassels to suit. A vast variety of Bags of this kind may be worked with the star bottom, and any 300 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. of the crochet or knitting patterns represented in the engravings at beginning of this Book. The top of the crochet hassock in this Volume may also serve as a guide in forming the star for the bottom of Bag Ihave done some very pretty Bags, having the star for bottom part, and the open stitch for bag part, worked in various colours. These may be worked in worsted, or silk chenille, or any other material preferred. CXLIV.—SQUARE CROCHET BAG. This Bag is worked in common sized purse-silk, the pattern of which is taken from the engraving at beginning of this Book, and which is given before in 130th Receipt for a long crochet purse. This Bag is cast on, and worked round and round, as described in the 130th Receipt, only it is not more than five and a half inches square each side. Bags in this style may be worked in any of the engraved pat- terns for crochet, or as the border for the Shawl, at the beginning of this Book. The ground of some of the stripes, where gold or steel beads are used, is much enlivened by being shaded. A scarlet ground, shaded from light to dark, and THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 801 then again from dark to light, having one or two rows of each shade, according to the width of pattern, looks well ; so does blue and green, done in the same way. CXLYV.—LONG CROCHET PURSE, WITH STEEL BEADS. This Purse is very pretty and simple, having stripes of close work and stripes of open work running along the purse; the open stripe has steel beads on it, which gives it a very rich and lively appearance. The close stripe in black, the coloured in cerise purse silk. Six rows of No. 7 steel beads, three hanks of black, and three of coloured silk are required. Work with an ivory handle and steel hook, or a fine ivory or steel, which must gauge just above the hook part, No. 20. This Purse should not be worked very tight, as crochet work is much more durable when worked rather loose. When made up, add steel rings and tassels to suit. Cast on 108 chain stitches with black. 1st Row, work in double tambour ; at the end of row cut off the thread, and begin 302 a, the second row where you began the first, observing always to work an edge stitch before commencing, (which is explained in Remarks on Crochet Work) ;—then work 7 more rows exactly the same as the first. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 9th Row, with cerise colour, (having the beads thread on before commencing,) five 10th Row, stitches in double tambourstitch, thentwo chain stitches; thechain stitohies are not attached to the purse, as it is to make an open stitch. Now slip up a bead close to the last chain stitch; leave two stitches on the black stripe unworked, then insert your hook into the third stitch, and work it in double tambour stitch; now continue working the two chain stitches and bead, then the double tambour stitch to end of row, all but five stitches, which work in double tambour; always cut off the thread at the end of every row, and commence again at the other side. six plain double tambour stitches; then work as the 9th row, by working the two chain stitches and bead, then the double tambour stitch ; then finish the row with the plain double tambour stitches at the other end. me THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 308 Repeat as the 9th and 10th rows three more times, making in all eight open rows with beads, Again work from the beginning three more times, which will make four black stripes and four cerise colour. Join, damp, and stretch it on a purse-stretcher. CXLVII.—ANOTHER LONG CROCHET PURSE, VERY SIMPLE AND VERY PRETTY, AND WORKED WITH OR WITHOUT GOLD BEADS. This Purse is all worked like the open part of the preceding Purse, only it is worked with shades of silk, which look very well; say 7 shades blue, beginning with black up to a pretty light blue, in all 7 shades ; 3 rows of each up to the light, then back again from the 2nd lightest to the dark; this forms one side of the Purse. Continue to work the other side in the same manner ; at the end of every row the thread is cut off. One hank of each shade of silk, and ten rows of No. 7 gold beads are required. 304 THE LADY’s WORK BOOK, Cast on 110 chain stitches, and work it exactly as described in 9th and 10th rows of former purse. If for a gentleman, cast on 170 stitches. Damp, and make it up as the former purse. CXLVIII—VERY NOVEL KNIT BAG This Bag is worked in shades of extra coarse purse silk, on a black ground. The centre part, when worked, appears raised, like the porcupine or pine-apple stitch. ‘It looks very handsome with one or two rounds knit with gold cord of No. 2, as explained in working receipt. This Bag is cast on at the bottom, and, from the mode of working the stitch, the colours of the silk take a wave of themselves, which looks very pretty. The bottom part represents a sort of star of black, then the shades of colours, with the poreupine in the centre, and again the shades of colours, finishing at top with gold. When finished, draw up, on the wrong side, the cast-on row, by taking hold only of the top points of it, and drawing them all close together; then again draw up the low points of the cast-on row, not close, 44 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 305 but a good deal looser than the other, so as to form the star. Finish by drawing up the top with gold rings, and cord and tassels to suit, and a small tassel at the bottom. Four wires of No. 16, one hank of each shade of silk, two of black, and three of green for centre, are required. The Bag is all worked in the same stitch as first round. This receipt also makes a very comfortable Travelling or Smoking Cap for a gentleman. Of course the bottom of Bag forms the top of the Cap. It is worked in Berlin wool, on larger wires, and finished at top with a handsome tassel. Cast on 144 stitches with black. 1st Round, Ti, O, Ti, O, Ti, O, Ti, 02, JT, O, T, O, T, O, T; repeat all round, and 19 more rounds. This finishes the black star part. 21st and 22nd Rounds in gold cord, as first round, 23rd and 24th Rounds in black, do. 25th and 26th Rounds in light green, do. 27th and 28th Rounds in white, do. 29th and 30th Rounds in mazarine or light blue, do. Vor. Il. U 306 THE LADY'S WORK Book. 31st and 82nd Rounds in bright scarlet, as first round. 33rd and 34th Rounds in black, do. 35th and 36th Rounds in gold cord, do. 37th Round in black, and 5 more rounds, do, 43rd and 44th Rounds in gold cord, do. 45th Round with bright green, or any other colour preferred, and 3 more rounds, 49th Round, O, Ti, O, Ti, O, a, 0, Ts yO; la T, O, T, 0; repeat, 50th Round, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, Ti, O, Ti, O, Ti, O, Ti, O; repeat, and 5 more rounds. 56th Round, T, 0, T, O, T, O, T, 02; Ti, O, Ti, O, Ti, O, Ti; 57th Round, Ti, O, Ti, O,.. i, ©, Ti, 02, T, O,.T, more rows, 63rd Round, Repeat from the 49th Round 3 more times. Then 2 Rounds in gold cord, as follows :— Ti, O, Ti, O, Ti, O, Ti, 02, T, O, T,, O: LOT repeat, Then 6 Rounds in black, repeat. Pete: Ts; repeat, and 5 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 307 Then 2 Rounds in gold cord. Then 2 Rounds in black, Then 2 Rounds in bright scarlet. Then 2 Rounds in bright blue colour. Then 2 Rounds in white. Then 2 Rounds in light green Then 2 Rounds in black. Then 2 Rounds in gold cord. Then 20 rounds in black. Finish with 2 rounds of gold cord. CXLIX.—NET CUFFS, IN BERLIN WOOL AND SILK, This Ouff, when net, is doubled up, and a coloured ribbon drawn through the 16th row, which, taking hold of the undermost netting, keeps both together ; another ribbon is drawn through the 2 4th row, in the same manner, 80 as to confine the netting to the size of the wrist. The top of Cuff represents two little frills of netting, which will 308 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. be seen after working according to the following receipt. Six small hanks of pale pink Berlin wool, 4 small reels of fine China floss silk, (which requires to be worked double, if very fine); a No.1 flat bone mesh, about one-third of an inch wide ; and a round mesh of No. 12, are required, Cast on 45 stitches. Ist Row, with wool and large mesh. 2nd Row, with wool and round mesh, and 1 more row. 4th Row, large mesh, and 2 more rows. 7th Row, round mesh. 8th Row, large mesh, and 2 more rows. 11th Row, round mesh, and 1 more row 13th Row, large mesh. 14th Row, with silk and round mesh, and 1 more row. 16th Row, wool, large mesh. 17th Row, small mesh. 18th Row, with silk and small mesh. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 309 19th Row, wool and small mesh. 20th Row, silk and small mesh. 21st Row, wool and small mesh. 22nd Row, wool and small mesh. 23rd Row, wool and small mesh, 24th Row, wool, large mesh. 25th Row, silk, small mesh, and 1 more row. 27th Row, wool and large mesh. 28th Row, wool, large mesh, 2 stitches in each loop- 29th Row, with silk, small mesh, plain row. This finishes the outside of Cuff. Return to the first row, and work two stitches into each with the large mesh and wool ; then finish with a plain row with silk. CL.—VERY WARM KNIT PETTICOAT FOR A LADY, WORKED IN SAME STITCH AS HASSOCK OR RUSSIAN SHAWL, IN FIRST VOLUME. This Petticoat is worked in two widths, and knit or sewn up after. If the spare 310 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. or open part is wished at the back, it can be knit thus :—When you have fully more than a quarter of a yard to knit from the top, lift half the number of stitches on to a thread, until you have worked the other half number of stitches the full quarter of a yard. Cast it off, as described for little Polish pelisse ; then tie on your wool at the spare edge (not the edge of the Petticoat, as that would not work properly in,) and work it the same length as the other. Cast it off as before. The front width is cast off in the same way: This petticoat is simply drawn at top with a silk flannel binding ribbon, so that it may be more easily dried and stretched square after washing ; and éare should be taken in drying, as all knitting shrinks in the length, if not properly pulled out in the width. Cast on for each width 216 stitches, Work 12 plain garter-stitch rows with double wool; this is for the purpose of keeping out the knitting at bottom of Petticoat ; then work all the Petticoat in single wool, as follows :— Ist Row, O, S, T, repeat to end of row ; every row is the same as this. Continue working until you have the length required. Cast off, as before noticed. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 3ik CLI.—_BABY’S KNIT LACE CAP, WITH PRETTY AND NOVEL CROWN. This Cap is, in appearance, alternate rounds of open work and rounds of thick or raised work, going in a waving sort of wheel form. The open part is worked with Taylor’s Persian cotton, No. 40, on reels; the raised is worked with twisted em- broidery cotton, called “ Dutch twist, No. 24.”. Use 4 wires, No. 23. Having worked the crown, continue the pattern following the crown, in the same proportion as the cap in Volume First. There should be about two inches of the new pattern worked; then cast off about 2 inches less than a third of the Cap,—this is for the back part of it; then continue working the pattern on the forehead, until you have, in all, about 43 inches from the crown. Cast it off. If wished, you can work a easer for ribbons to draw it with; one all round, just before you cast it off for the back part of the cap, the other about the middle of the forehead, and the last just before the cap is cast off. The working receipt for caser is that following the receipt for cap part. a 312 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. Receipt for Crown. Cast on 11 stitches with reel cotton. Ist Round, plain. 2nd Round, plain. 3rd Round, O, P ; repeat all round. 4th Round, plain, and 2 more rounds. 7th Round, O, P ; repeat all round. 8th Round, plain, and 2 more rounds. 11th Round, pearl, with the fine embroidery cotton, and 8 more rounds. 15th Round, with the reel cotton, cast on 8 stitches on the ri repeat all round. 16th Round, plain, and 2 more rounds. 19th Round, O, P, O, P, O, EZ OsPsO0,.P, 0,.P,0,-P; O, P, O, P4; repeat all round. 20th Round, plain, and 2 more rounds. 9 23rd Round, péarl, with fine embroidery cotton, and $ more rounds. ight hand wire, P4; THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 313 27th Round, T, P7, cast on 8 stitches, P12, repeat all round. 28th Round, P24, T, Tr; repeat all round. 29th Round, plain, all but the last stitch ; lift it on to the next wire, as it is required for the Tr in the next round. 30th Round, Tr, P22, T; repeat all round. 31st Round, P8, O, P, O, P, O, P02, 0.2, Opes O, P, O, P, O, P8; re- peat all round. 32nd Round, Tr, P29, T ; repeat all round. 33rd Round, plain. 34th Round, Tr, P3, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O; T. Ocbs0;.T; O, T, P2, T ; repeat all round. 35th Round, plain. 36th Round, Tr, P25, T; repeat all round. 87th Round, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O,T, 0, T, O, T; O, T, O, T, 0, T, O, A; repeat all round. 38th Round, plain, and 1 more round, 814 THE LADY’S WORK Book. 40th Round, pearl, with embroidery cotton, and 2 more rounds, 43rd Round, pearl, all but the last stitch ; lift it on to the first wire of the 44th round, without working. 44th Round, P13, cast on 8 stitches, P13 ; repeat all round, 45th Round, Tr, P30, T; repeat all round, 46th Round, plain. 47th Round, Tr, P28, T; repeat all round. 48th Round, Tr, P9, O, P, O, P, O, P, O, P, 0, P, 0, POF. 0; P, 0; Pg.ce3 repeat all round. 49th Round, Tr, P33, T: repeat all round. 50th Round, Tr, P31, T; repeat all round. 51st Round, T, P4, O, T, O, T, O, oO, T, 0, T, 0, w: T, 0,22, DeBAOLT, Oral PS Ds repeat all round. 52nd Round, Tr, P27, T; repeat all round. 53rd Round, Tr, P25, T; repeat all round. THE LADY § WORK BOOK. 315 54th Round, knit the first stitch and lift it onto the last wire, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, OT, O, T, O, T, O, T, O, T, O; T, O, A; repeat all round. 55th Round, plain all round. 56th Round, plain all round. 57th Round, pearl, with embroidery cotton, and 4 more rounds. This finishes the crown ; then continue as following Receipt for Cap Part. Ist Round, P3, O, T, P, T, P4, 05, P4, T, P3, O, T, P ; repeat. 2nd Round, P, T, O, P3, T, P4, B, P, B, P4, T, P, T, O, P3; repeat. 8rd Round, P3, O, T, P12, T, P3, O, T, P; repeat. 4th Round, P, T, O, P16, T, O, P3 ; repeat. 5th Round, P3, 0, T, P4, 0, P, O, P, O, P, O, P, 0, P, 9, POO Fee, 0, T, P; repeat 6th Round, P, T, O, P4, T, P15, T, P, T, O, P3; repeat. 316 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 7th Round, P3, O, T, P, T, P14, T, P3, O, T, P; repeat. 8th Round, P, T, O, P3, T, P12, T, P, T, O, P3; repeat. 9th Round, P3, O, T, P, T, PI O54, P3, 0, 7, Ps repeat. 10th Round, *P, T, O, P16, yO, P38 s repeat. 11th Round, *P3, 0, T, P16, O, T, P; repeat, 12th Round, *P, T, O, P1 6, T, O, P8 ; repeat. Repeat from first round, working as before described. Receipt for Caser. 1st Round, plain, and 3 more rounds. 5th Round, T, +03; repeat all round. 6th Round, plain, and 3 more rounds. * These three last rows are worked in the embroidery cotton. + 03; This is to make a long loop, and is only one loop in the 4 plain rounds following, — THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 317 CLIL—ANOTHER BABY’S KNIT LACE CAP. A very beautiful Baby’s Cap may be made, by taking the round D’oyley, as 39th Receipt of this Volume, and working it for the crown; after having done so, take pattern No. 9 of this Volume, and work it in the same proportions as the Cap, or that of the foregoing Receipt, in this Volume, for Baby’s Cap. If the crown should be too few stitches for the pattern to goin properly, work another plain round, and let it out as many stitches as are deficient, by picking up from the round before, and working them; or, if it is a few stitches too many, take it in, before working the pattern, as 9th Receipt. Use wires No. 23, and No. 40 Taylor’s Persian cotton, of which two bobbins are required. CLIII.—CROCHET MITTEN, Worked in single stitch, in stone coloured Berlin or English embroidery wool ; with a few rows of blue at top and bottom of the Mitten, and round the thumb. A hook No. 11, four or five hanks of colour, and as much fawn as makes up half an ounce, are required. ‘aN 318 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Set on about 41 stitches with blue; join them to form the round; you will then have 40 stitches. Ist. Round, plain, and 5 more rounds. 7th Round, plain,* with fawn, and 7 more rounds. In the next row, commence to let out for the Thumb. 15th Round, work the first stitch as + usual, then make another stitch from the back part of the first loop,—this is to increase a stitch ; then work two stitches plain ; work next loop as + usual; then work another from the back part of tho loop, so as to increase another stitch ; then plain all round, 16th Round, work the fmarked stitch, then work another from the back of it; then * Plain, but instead of taking the upper part of the loop, take the under part, which is that next you ; this makes quite a different looking stitch from the other part. All the Mitten is worked in this way, except the coloured edges. T Tie a piece of different coloured wool on this part of the loop, so that you may know when you come round to it again, as on that part you work and let out as before. f It would be well to work this stitch for several rounds, by tying it with a piece of different colour when the loop has been worked and is on the crochet needle. THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 319 three distinct stitches; then thenext loop in the usual way; then make another from the back of it; then plain all round. 17th Round, work the marked stitch, then again from the back of it; then four dis- tinct stitches ; next stitch work as usual; then again from the back of it; then plain all round. 18th Round, work the marked stitch, then again from back of it; then five distinct stitches ; next stitch work as usual; then again from the back of it ; then plain all round. Continue working as the 15th, 16th, 17th, and 18th rounds, until you have 16 stitches between the increase stitches; then unite the first inereasbd stitch and the last increased together, by taking the first one on the hook and then the other, being 16 stitches from the first one on the hook, and work them off as one stitch ; ; by this you unite the Mitten to form the hand; (the thumb is left till the hand piece is finished) ; work the rest of the round plain. Work every succeeding round the same, until you have reduced this to the original number of stitches cast on ; then work three plain rounds in single tambour stitch, with ay 820 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. colour, the same as the first six rounds; now return to the thumb, and work it round and round until it is nearly as long as the hand part, finishing with the three coloured rounds. CLIV.—LONG CROCHET MITTEN FOR INFANTS. Cast on 32 stitches in Berlin wool. One small hank of white, and two of colour, and one hook No. 11 are required, It is worked exactly like the foregoing Mitten, say white for the mitten part, and. edged with blue or pink; the coloured part is all done in the plain single tambour stitch, the Mitten in white, and worked in the same stitch as the previous one, by taking the part of loop next you instead of the oneat the edge. Thefirst four rounds are worked in colour, plain stitch. Then three inches deep, in white, every round being the same. Next round, take the first two loops together, so as to take it in at the beginning of the round, then one half inch in depth plain ; then again take in at the beginning of the round one half inch deep plain; again take in at beginning of next round we THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 321 one half inch deep plain ; again take in at beginning, and one inch plain. Let out for the thumb, until you have 10 distinct stitches between the let-out stitches ; then join them, and work the hand. Take in under the thumb until you have only 28 stitches round the hand part ; the last row of white plain. Finish with three in colour ; and the thumb as described in former Mittens. Drawa ribbon through the wrist part. CLV.—OUT-DOOR MITTEN FOR CHILDREN, Worked in Berlin, or Lady Betty Wool. Six small hanks, and one of colour, and a No. 11 hook, are required. This Mitten, which is preferable to a glove for a young child, has a thumb only, the hand part being finished in the form of a bag for the fingers. It is worked either in colour or all white with 3 rows of colour at top, exactly in the same way as the former Mittens, in single stitch ; then 6 rows white, taking the part of loop next-you. The whole of the Mitten is worked in this stitch, with the exception of the coloured part, which is all done in the single stitch. Let out for the thumb Vor. II. x aot 322 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. as in first Mitten (marking the stitch,) until you have 11 distinct stitches, then join for hand, but do not take it in below the thumb as described in the former Mittens, this part being all worked round and round without taking in ; work about an inch deep. The Mitten is now taken in at each side, in the same way as the part under the thumb of former Mitten, by taking two loops on the hook and working them as one. This is continued successively every row until you have only 4 stitches, and the intake stitch every side; then take hold of both sides, and crochet them, which unites the two sides together, then draw through the wool, and fasten it neatly on the wrong side. Now return and work the thumb, by tying on the wool to the stitch that united the hand part, and work round the thumb for 7 rounds, then take in 4 times in the next round, then again do the same in the following round ; and draw up the remaining stitches on the wrong side, and fasten it neatly. Draw a ribbon through the wrist part. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK, 323 CLVI.—KNIT POLISH OVERALL PELISSE FOR A CHILD. WORKED IN THE SAME STITCH AS BRIOCHE. This Pelisse is suitable for a child in arms, for one walking, or for a boy of six or seven years, for which this receipt is made out; if for a younger walking child, use pins two sizes smaller, and three plies fleecy. The whole Pelisse is composed of one colour, and trimmed with imitation ermine fur. The ermine fur, of course, is worked in white, and little tufts of black, attached at intervals about three inches apart, to represent the tails of the ermine. The fur is made about half a quarter of a yard deep round the bottom of the skirt and up the fronts; the cuffs and collar are also composed of the imitation fur. The fronts and back part of tlie Pelisse are worked separately, commencing at the bottom of the skirt, and taking it in several times, as will be described in the working receipt. This dress is worked in double English embroidery wool, or it may be worked in Berlin, which is much softer, but does not wash so well as the other ; also in four-plies English fleeey wool. Two ivory pins of No. 9, a half-pound coloured wool, and a quarter pound of white, are re- aa 324 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. quired. When finished, draw it round the waist with cord and tassels, also sew a cord made of white and colour round the top part of the fur next to the coloured part of the dress. This dress may be confined with a leather band, if required. FRONT WIDTH. Cast on with white 108 stitches. Ist Row, O, S, T, repeat to end. 2nd Row, O, S,°T, repeat to end. Continue as these two rows until you have about four inches worked. Next Row, O, S, T; repeat it 9 more times with white, which is 30 stitches ; leave it there until it is required. Now tie on the colour wool (on the wrong side) to a loop of the row below; give the white wool and it a twist together, so that the introduction of the colour may not make a hole; then work as follows :~O, S, T; repeat this to the end, all but 5 stitches, as it is necessary here to take in 3 stitches ; so therefore take the whole 5 stitches that remain, and knit them so as they form only one stitch; then 2nd row of colour, work as follows :— THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 325 2nd Colour, O, S, T; repeat until you have but 30 stitches remaining on your left hand pin, twist the coloured and white wool, and work the 30 stitches off with the white as before, always working O, S, T. Next row work as follows,— 8rd Colour O, S, T, with white; repeat 9 more times as before; twist the wools, and work the rest of the row with colour. Continue working as 2nd and 3rd coloured rows, 11 more times, which make 25 rows of colour. In the row following, work as follows :— 26th Coloured Row, O, S, T ; repeat till you have only 30 stitches, then twist white and colour. Work with white O, S, T ; repeat it 9 more times, which concludes the row. 27th Coloured Row, white, O, S, T ; repeat 9 more times, twist the colour, and work with it O, S, T, to the end of the row, all but 5 stitches; take them in as on 1st coloured row, by working all the 5 stitches together into one stitch ; then repeat from 2nd coloured row to the 27th, five more times. Then work 9 rows, and take in on the 10th; repeat it 5 326 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. more times; this is for arm hole. Then work 3 rows, and take in on the 4th, repeating it four more times, and always taking in on the 4th row; this is for shoulder. Then 4 rows before casting off. In casting it off, knit the first stitch, take the two next loops together, and knit in the way you work T'; lift the first stitch over that, and repeat, working a plain stitch and the two together to the end, always lifting the one over the other, in order to cast off. This T is to confine the stitch to its proper size. The other front is worked in the same way as this, in the reverse. BACK WIDTH, Cast on for the back width 147 in white, and work as before in the front width, until you have about 4 inches of white ; then with colour, take this in exactly at ~ each side, as you did up the one side of the front, until you come to the arm part. Then work as many plain rows as corresponds with the part that is taken in for the front of the arm hole, on the front width, but the back is never taken in, as it must THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. S27 be quite straight. Then take it in for the shoulder part, in the same way the front was done, by taking in five stitches into one at each side every fourth row for five times, to correspond with the front shoulder part; then cast it off in the same way as the front. Join up the shoulders of the front and back, by sewing them together. When joined up, tie the wool exactly in the centre, where it has just been joined at the top of the shoulder, and work, in garter stitch, a three.cornered gusset exactly in the centre of the shoulder. This gusset is worked by taking up at the end of every row a stitch from the front of the neck part, and one from back part of neck at the end of every row, as following Receipt will describe. FOR GUSSET. Tie on the wool, and take a hold of the stitch that was last sewed up at top of shoulder, and work it. This stitch is for the foundation; then take a stitch from the cast off of front, and work it. 2nd Row, P2; then take a stitch from the cast off of back, and work it. 328 THE LADY’s WORK BOOK. 3rd Row, P3 ; then take a stitch from the front, and work it as before. 4th Row, P4; then take a stitch from the back, and work it. Continue in the same way until you have worked about three inches on the back and front ; leave the stitches on a thread until you have worked the other gusset exactly the same; +then work back to the other gusset, picking up and working the back stitches as you go along ; then work all those on the thread, and one more of the front; then work back again to the other front, and work one more stitch; then work, as described from the mark + two more times, always taking in one front stitch when you come to it; then pick up all the cast-off stitches that remain on the front, and work them; then work back again, and do the same with the other front. Next row quite plain, and two more rows. Cast it off in the common way. SLEEVE. Cast on 75 stitches for Sleeve ; first 30 stitches in white, and then 45 in colour. THE LADY 8 WORK BOOK. 329 1st Row, 0, S, T, with blue,—repeat to end of blue; then twist the wool, and work, with white, O, S, T,—repeat to end of row. 2nd Row, O, S, T, with white,—repeat to end of white ; then twist the wool, and work, with colour, O, S, T,—repeat to end of row. Continue working until you have about eight inches and a half worked; then cast it off, all but 18 stitches of colour at top, and continue working it backwards and forwards in the same stitch for about 36 rows more than the sleeve ; cast it off; this is for a gusset, which is set in in the same way as that in the sleeve of a gentleman’s shirt, by sewing the cast-on part of the sleeve to the side part of this gusset ; then join up the sleeve down to the cuff, and sew in the top part of the sleeve to the arm hole, COLLAR. Cast on for Collar, with white wool, 165 stitches. Ist Row, 0, S, T; repeat to end of row. Repeat as 1st row 30 more times. 330 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK, 32nd Row, O, S, T, 0, S, T, 0, S, T, O, S, T, 0, S, T, O,S; then take five stitches into one, so as to take int ; repeat from the beginning of this row two more times; then work O, S, T; repeat O, 8S, T, 11 more times ; then work O, S, and take in five stitches into one. Now repeat from the beginning of row to mark thus { two more times ; finish the row by working O, S, T, O, S, T, 0; 8) 1; By, Ay. O, ST, O, Sa 33rd Row, O, S, 'T'; repeat to end of row, and 6 more rows. 40th Row, O, 8, T, O, S, T, O, S, T, O, S, T, O, S; then take in the five stitches into one, as in the 82nd row?, and repeat from the beginning of this row three more times; then work O, S, and take in five stitches same as before ; repeat from beginning of row to mark thus +t three more times ; finish the row by working O, S, T, O, S, Fy@p Syt; 0,8, TS 0, 3,-T. 41st Row, 0, S, T; repeat to end of row, and 10 more rows. 52nd Row, O, S, T, 0, S, T, 0, S, T, O, 8S; take in the five stitches into one, and repeat from the beginning of this row three more times}; then work O, S, and take in five stitches into one : repeat from beginning to mark THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. $31 thus t three more times; finish the row by working O, S, T, 0, S, T Onbt 15.0, Syeks 53rd Row, 0, 8, T; repeat to end of row, and 10 more rows. 54th Row, 0,8, T, 0, S, T, 0, 5; then take five stitches into one, and repeat from the beginning of this row three more times}; then work O, S, and take in five stitches into one; repeat from beginning of row to mark thus + three more times; finish the row by working O, §, ewe o;-1, Oe ed We 55th Row, 0, 8, T; repeat to end, and 3 more rows. This finishes the Collar. Cast it off as front and back. Finish this Dress by sewing the Collar to the garter stitch neck part, confining the one to suit the other ; it is drawn at neck, and tied with cord and tassel like waist part. CLVII.—ALPINE KNIT SCARF, (SAME FABRIC AS THE SHETLAND SCARFS.) This very beautiful and light Searf is composed of a border of diamonds all round ; 332 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. and the centre is stripes of the double rose leaf, as 105th Receipt of this Volume. When finished, dress it in the same way as Shetland Shawl, page 118; three hanks of 2 plies Lady Betty, and 2-ivory pins No. 10, are required. Cast on 120 stitches. Ist, 2nd, 8rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th rows, plain. 9th Row, S, P5, edge—T, O, P2, T, O, P7, O, T, P2, O,4+A, O, P2, T, O, P7, OAK P2, O; repeat from mark thus + 4 more times; then edge T, P5. 10th Row, S, P5, edge—B2, 7, O, B2, 7, O,* B, O, IL» B2, O, 7,, B3; repeat 5 more times; edge P6. 1lth Row, S, P5, edge—P2, 1)0,P2;T; 0,-P3, 0; T, P2OLTL?P ; repeat 5 more times; edge P6. 12th Row, S, P5, edge—y, O, B2, 7, 0, B5, O, y, B2, O, 7, B; repeat 5 more times; edge P6. 13th Row, S, P5, edge—T, O, P2, T, O, P7, O, T, P2, 0, +A, O, P2, T, O, P7, O, T, P2, O; repeat from mark thus + 4 more times; edge T, P5. * Observe, every O in this receipt, on the rows where the turned letters occur, must be worked as Op; for which see Index. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 333 14th Row, S, P5, edge—Bz2, x, O, B2, 7, O, B, O, 7, B2, O, z, B3; repeat 5 more times ; edge P6. 15th Row, S, P5, edge—P2, T, O, P2, T, O, P3, 0, T, P2, O, T, P; repeat 5 moro times; edge P6. 16th Row, S, P5, edge—back or pearl row; edge P6. 17th Row, S, P5, edge—P4, O, T, P2, O, A, O, P2, T, O, P38; repeat 5 more times ; edge P6. 18th Row, S, P5, edge—O, x, B2, O, , BS, I, O, B2, x, O, B; repeat 5 more times ; edge P6. 19th Row, S, P5, edge—P2, O, T, P2, O, T, P3, T, O, P2, T, O, P ; repeat 5 more times ; edge P6, 20th Row, S, P5, edge—B2, O, 7, B2, 0, 7, B, 1, O, B2, 1, O, B3; repeat 5 more times; edge P6. 21st Row, S, P5, edge—P4, O, T, P2, O, A, O, P2, T, O, P3; repeat 5 more times ; edge P6. BRE! THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 22nd Row, 8, P5, edge—O, y, B2, 0, 7, BS, 7, O, B2, 7, O, B; repeat 5 more times ; edge P6. 23rd Row, 8, P5, edge—P2, 0, T, P2, 0, T, P3, T, O, P2, T, O, P; repeat 5 more times 3; edge P6. 24th Row, S, Pd, edge—back or pearl row; edge P6. Then repeat from 9th row 2 more times ; this finishes the first end of the Scarf; then work as follows,— 25th Row, S, P5, edge—T, O, P2, T, O, P7, O, T, P2, O, T,—rest all plain,* all but 24 stitches; work them thus, T, O, P2, T, O, P7, O, i oe) edge T, P5. 26th Row, S, P5, edge—B2, L» 0, B2, 7, O, B, O, 7, B2, O, 7, B3,—rest plain all but 24 stitches; work them thus, B2, 7; 0232; 7,078 Os. B2, O, 7, B3; edge P6. 27th Row, S, P5, edge—P2, T, O, P2, T, O, P3, O, T, P2, O, T, P; rest plain * Before working the plain part, pick up a stitch from the row beiow, as you require it when the centre pattern begins, THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. 335 all but 24 stitches ; work them thus, P2, T, OPS 22; 0; P3, 0, T, P2, 0, T, P; edge P6. 28th Row, S, P5, edge—z, O, B2, zy, O, BS, 9, 1, B2, O, x, B; rest plain all but 24 stitches ; work them thus, 3, 0, B2, 1, O, B5, O, z, B2, 9, 1 B; edge P6. 29th Row, S, P5, edge—T, O, P2, T, O, P7, O, T, P2, O, T; rest plain all but 24 stitches ; work them thus, T, O, P2, T, .0;.P7,0, T, Pad; edge PyaRb: 30th Row, S, P5, edge—B2, 1, O, B2, 1, 9, B, 9, LL, B2, O, z,, B3; rest plain all but 24 stitches ; work them thus, B2, 7, O, B2, x, 0, B, 9, B2, O, y, B38; edge P6. 81st Row, S, P5, edge—P2, T, O, P2, T, O, P3, O, T, P2, O, T, P; rest plain all but 24 stitches ; work them thus, P2, T, O, P2, T, O, P3, O, eS, O, T, P; edge P6. 32nd Row, S, P5, pearl this row; edge P6. 336 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Commencement of Centre Pattern 33rd Row, S, P5, edge—P4, O, T, P2, 0, A, O, P2) T. O, P83; then P2, fPB; rT, 0, B, P, 0, P, T; B, 4, Py B; Pp BR, T, P, O; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times; then IP BO, L B, P3; then P4, O, TPG: A, 0, P2, T, 0, P3; edge P6. 34th Row, S, P5, edge—O, I, B2, O, 7, BS, x, O, B2, 7, 0, B; then B3, P4, B, TB3, P, B2, P, B2, P, B4, P4, B; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times ; then B2, O, I, B2, O, 7, BS, L» 0, B2, 7, 0, B; edge P6. 35th Row, 8, P5, edge—P2, O, T, P2, O, T, P3, T, O, Pg, T, O, P; then P2, tts 7, 0, BP, 0, I, B, T, BEB, 3,0, P, O; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times; then P7B;-0} 1, B, P3,—P2, O, ZT, P2lOy 8! Ps; B20, P2, T, O, P; edge P6. 36th Row, S, P5, edge—B2, O, I, B2, 0, 3, B, L> 9, B2, 7, 0, B3; then B3, P4, B, +B4, P, B, P, B, P, BS, P4, B; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times ; then B2—Bz2, O, J, B2, O, Ey 335-54) Be; I O, B3 ; edge P6. THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 337 37th Row, S, P5, edge—P4, O, T, P2, O, A, O, P2, T, O, PRe-B2P; B; 7, 9, b, P, O, P3, O, A, B, A, 0, P38, O; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times ; then P, B,O, z, B, P3—P4, 0, T, P2, 0, A, O, P2, T.OLP3; edge P6. 88th Row, S, P5, edge—9, I; Bz, O, x, BS, I, O, B2, 7, 0, B—B3, P4, B, +B6, P, B7, P4, B; repeat from mark thus t 2 more times ; then B2, O, y, B2,9, L B5, J, O, B2, I; O, B;: edge P6. 39th Row, S, P5, edge—P2, O; BEEZ. O:..0;_P3, TiO< PS fy ORE then P2, +P, B, x, 9; B, P, 0, P5, O, A, 9, P5, O; repeat from mark thus t 2 more times ; then P, B, OF 75. B, PSP 20 Ei Ez, Oe Tloa.ks 0; P22; T, 0, FP; edge P6. 40th Row, S, P5, edge—B18,—B3, P4, B, +B16, P4, B ; repeat from mark thus t 2 more times; then B2,—B18 ; edge P6. : Alst Row, 8, P5, edge—T, O; PS,.2,.G; FT, 9, T, P2, 0, P; then Po tee DPE. OCB, P, 0, P, T, Bot; Pee, -T,. Bs T, P, O; repeat from mark Von. Il. Y 338 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. thus + 2 more times; then P, B, O, 7, B, P3, T, O, P2, T, O, P7, 0, T, P2, 0, P; edge P6. 42nd Row, 8, P5, edge—y, B, 1 O, B2, x, O, B, O, 7, B2, 0, 7, B3; then B3, P4, B, +B3, P, B2, P, B2, P, B4, P4, B; repeat from mark ioe + 2 more times ; then B2,—z, B, 7, O, B2, 7, 0, B, O, 7, B2, O, 7, B3; edge P6. 43rd Row, 8, P5, edge—P2, T, O, P2, T, > igh Op -E P220),. Ts: then aes +P, B, 7,0, B, P, O, P, O, T, B, T, B, T, B, T, O, P, O; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times ; — P, B, O, x, B, P3,—P2, T, O, P2, T, O, P3 0, T, P2, O, T, P; edge P6. 44th Row, S, P5, edge—yz, O, B2, 7, O, BS, O, 7, BY, O, 7, B; then B3, P4, B, +B4, P, B, P, B, P, B5, P4, B; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times ; then B2,—yz, O, B2, 7, 0, B5, O, 7, B2, O. 7, B; edge P6. 45th Row, 8, P5, edge—T, O, P2, T, O, P7, O, T, P2, O. P; then P2, +P, B, Tp O, B, P, 0, P3, O, A, B, A, O, P3, 0; repeat from mark thus + 2 more THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 339 times ; then P, B, O, x, B; P3,T).0; P2, T, 0, PI29; meP?; O, Ps edge P6. 46th Row, S, P5, edge— J, B, x, 0, B2, 1, O, B, O, 1, B2, 9. I: B3, then B3, P4, B, tB6, P, B7, P4 B; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times; then B2,—J,, By ts O, B2, J; O.B, O; J) Bz; Ows, B3; edge P6. 47th Row, 8, P5, edge—P2, T, O, P2, T, O, P3, O, T, P2, O, T, P; then P2, +P, B, x, 0. B, P, 0, P5, O, A, O, PS, O; repeat from mark thus + 2 more times ; then P, B, O, y, B: P3,—P2, T, 0,P2, T, 0, P3, O, As P2, O, T, P; edge P6. 48th Row, 8, P5, edge—B18; then B3, P4, B, +B16, P4, B; repeat from mark thus t+ 2 more tinwes; then B2,—B18; edge P6. Repeat from 32nd row until you have worked the centre pattern two yards and a quarter. Then work as follows for the other end :— Ist Row, S, P5 edge—P4, O, T, P2, 0, A, O, P2, T, O, P3—rest plain,* all * In working this plain, take in a stitch, to correspond with tern will not work in properly. the other end of scarf, otherwise the pat- 2nd Row, 3rd Row, Ath Row, 5th Row, 6th Row, THE LADY 8 WORK BOOK. but 24 stitches; work them thus, P4, O, T, P2, 0, A, O, P2, T, O, P3—edge P6. S, P5 edge—O, 7, B2, 0, x, B5, 7, 0, ‘B2, 7, O, B—rest plain, all but 24 stitches; work them thus, O, 7, B2, 0, 7, B5, 7, O, B2, x, O, B—edge P6. S, P5 edge—P2, O, T, P2, 0, T, P3, T, O, P2, T, O, P—rest plain, all but 24 stitches; work them thus, P2, O, T, P2, O, T, P3, T, O, P2, T, O, P—edge P6. S, P5 edge—B2, O, 7, B2, O, 7, B, 7, 0, B2, 7, O, B8—rest plain, all but 24 stitches; work them thus, B2, O, 7, B2, 0, 7, B, 7, O, B2, T, O, B38—edge P6. S, P5 edge—P4, O, T, P2, O, A, O, P2, T, O, P3—rest plain, all but 24 stitches; work them thus, P4, O, T, P2, O, A, O, P2, T, O, P3, —edge P6. S, P5 edge—O, 7, B2, O, 5, B5, x, O, B2, 7,0, B—rest plain, all THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 34] but 24 stitches; work them thus, O, 7, B2, 0, g, Biers O,-B2,.x, O, B—edge P6. 7th Row, S, P5 edge—P2, O, T, P2, O, T, P3, T, O, P2, T, O, P—rest plain, all but 24 stitches; work them thus, P2, 0, T, P2, O, T, P3, T, O, P2, T, O, P—edge P6. 8th Row, S, P5 edge—pearl row—edge P6. Repeat from the 9th row, at the beginning of receipt, to the 24th row 3 times ; finish with 8 rows plain, to correspond with the 8 plain rows at the beginning. Cast it off, and dress it according to the directions given along with the Shetland Shawl, page 118. When dressed, add a knotted fringe at the ends. CLVIII.—OPERA, OR TRAVELLING CAP, FOR A LADY. This Cap is very pretty and useful. It is worked in shades of pink and white alternately. The front rolls up; the crown is something like that of a Swiss pea- sant’s cap, with a string made of white, and the pink shades plated together, to draw it with at the back of crown, the ends of which are left about two inches long, 342 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. and form a sort of soft tassel; and another string of the same kind drawn through the 5th white from the front, or cast-on row, or the 3rd from the crown part. When knit, the front is turned up from the 4th coloured stripe, like a turban roll, at ihe ends of which it is drawn quite close together; then the cast-off row is turned in on to the 2nd coloured stripe from the cast-off row; then it is drawn up quite close to the turban roll, and fastened; the string that runs along the 5th white stripe is tied under the chin. This Cap is all worked in double Berlin wool; one ounce white, and a quarter of an ounce of the four shades, and two No. 7 Ivory pins are required. Cast on 94 stitches for front. ist Row, dark pink, plain. 7th Row, with white, plain. 2nd Row, 2nd shade, pearl. | 8th Row, do. P edge, O, T, repeat 3rd Row, 8rd shade, plain. to end of row, edge stitch P. 4th Row, 4th shade, plain. 9th Row, dark pink, pearl. 5th Row, with white, pearl. | 10th Row, 2nd shade, pearl. 6th Row, do. P edge stitch, O, T, | 11th Row, 8rd shade, plain. repeat to end of row, edge stitch P. | 12th Row, 4th shade, pearl. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 343 Repeat from 5th to the 12th row two more times. 29th Row, with white, pearl. 30th Row, do. P edge, O, T, repeat to end, edge stitch P. Repeat 29th and 30th rows twice ; once with third shade of pink, and once with white. 35th Row, dark pink, pearl. 37th Row, 3rd shade, plain. 36th Row, 2nd shade, pearl. 38th Row, 4th shade, pearl. Now repeat from 5th to 12 h row with shades, as before. Avth Row, with white, pearl. 58rd Row, 3rd shade, pearl. 48th Row, white, P edge, O, T, repeat, | 5 Ath Row, 4th shade, plain edge P. 55th Row, white, plain. 49th Row, white, pearl. 56th Row, white, P edge, O, T, repeat, 50th Row, white, P edge, O, T, repeat, edge P. edge P, 57th Row, white, plain. 51st Row, dark pink, plain. 58th Row, white, P edge, O, T, repeat, 52nd Row, 2nd shade, plain. edge P, 344 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Repeat from 51st to the 58th row once more. Then lift off 31 stitches at each side on to a thread, as the centre stitches are only worked for the crown, the other stitches at each side are again required when the crown is complete. You have 32 stitches in the centre ; work them as follows :— ist Row, dark pink, plain, for crown. | 6th Row, white, P edge, O, T, repeat 2nd Row, 2nd shade, plain. to end of row, edge P. ord Row, 3rd shade, pearl. | 7th Row, white, plain. 4th Row, 4th shade, plain. Sth Row, white, P edge, O, T, repeat, 5th Row, white, plain. | edge P. Repeat from 1st row of crown to the Sth seven more times, to complete the crown. Here break off the thread, and pick up those stitches at each end of crown that were left on the thread, and tie on the wool you are going to work with, and work as 5lst to 58th rows of front two more times. Observe that the following rows, including the crown and the stitches which were left on the thread, make in all 94 stitches in each row, Then work as follows, to finish the cap :— Ist Row, dark pink, plain. 3rd Row, 3rd shade, pearl, 2nd Row, 2nd shade, plain. 4th Row, 4th shade, plain. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 345 5th Row, with white, plain. 7th Row, do. pearl. 6th Row, do. plain. 8th Row, do. plain. Cast it off, and make it up as before described. You will observe you have 8 stripes of colour for the crown; draw them down with a needle and thread, and fasten them so as to fit the head at each side. CLIX.—SQUARE KNIT SHADE CUSHION. This Cushion is worked in the same stitch as a Brioche of this volume. It is composed of three stripes running up the Cushion; namely, the first stripe in nine shades of scarlet double Berlin wool, the centre one in six shades of sage coloured Berlin wool, the sage colours shade up to white ; then the other scarlet. All the three stripes are. shaded from dark to light, and then from light to dark, each shade in regular succession. This Cushion, when finished, is filled with down, then edged with a thick silk cord made of shades of scarlet and sage, and tassels all to correspond with 346 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. the stripes.* A pair ivory pins No. 7, eight small hanks of each of the scarlet shades, and four of the Sage, are required; the shades of scarlet should not run more than two shades above the bright military scarlet, as it looks very tame and flat when lighter. Cast on 168 stitches with double wool, the darkest shade, being almost black. Ist Row, O, S, T; repeat to end of row, and 3 more rows. 5th Row, with 2nd shade, and 3 more rows. 9th Row, with 3rd shade, and 3 more rows. Every shade is worked in Succession, up to the lightest, working 4 rows of each * T have seen many pretty Cushions and Ottomans in this style, worked in stripes, in different stitches, with two plies of Berlin wool; the broad stripes all in bright Turkish colours, worked in the twisted pattern, or any other preferred ; the narrow in plain garter stitch, or one pearl and one plain, (always reversing it every row, so as not to make it appear like ribbing,) each stripe is worked separately, This garter stitch stripe is worked half the width of the coloured ones, and generally in white, which gives great relief to the bright Turkish eolours,. This white stripe goes between all the Turkish colours, The stripes are knit, sown, or crochet together with the hook, as described in Baby’s Blanket in Volume First. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 347 shade; then back again from light to dark, which finishes the first scarlet stripe; then work the six shades of sage colour exactly as the scarlet ; then repeat the scarlet as before, which finishes the Cushion. CLX.—CROCHET POLISH CAP, FOR A CHILD, OR FOR A LADY’S RIDING CAP, oR GENTLEMAN’S TRAVELLING CAP, Worked in double tambour or crochet stitch, as described in the 125th Receipt of Volume First. ‘This Cap has a square crown, and a band worked in white, to represent the Ermine fur on little Polish pelisse. Two hanks of colour and one white, 4 plies fleecy, and a hook No. 11, are required. Cast on with colour 4 stitches ; in- crease until you have 7 stitches independent of the loop on the hook. lst Round, of outlets, increase *2 stitches in the first stitch ; then 1 distinct plain, so repeat 3 more times, which brings you to the end of the round. * To let out 2 stitches, you must work three stitches in one stitch. I should advise that every time you increase on a stitch, the first time of working it, it should be marked with a thread of different eolour while the stitch is still on the hook, so that you may know where to let out in working thenext round. The first stitch of each round is always the one that was marked in the last round, and is the one you increase on in every succeeding round. 348 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 2nd Round, increase two stitches in the first stitch. then three distinet plain ; repeat three more times, which brings you to the end of the round. 3rd Round, increase two stitches, then five distinct plain ; repeat three more times, which brings you to the end of the round. Continue in this way, always increasing, until you have about 9 inches between the increasing ; then two plain rounds. Now commence, and take in to decrease it, in the same ratio as it was let out. Ist Round of intakes,* take in a stitch, then take in another; then work plain, until you come to the outlets of the other corner, then take in as beginning of this round ; work all this round the same way. The intakes should be marked. 2nd Round of intakes, take in a stitch, (the loops to be taken in are the one before the marked stitch, and the marked stitch,) then take in again plain to the next corner, and repeat as this side all round. Continue as this last round until you have reduced it to the size of the child’s * Take in, by working two stitches together; this intake should be marked, in order that it may be easily distinguished in the following round, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 849 head you intend it for. This you will easily ascertain by measuring. As a rule, 10 rounds taken in should be about the proportion. Having done this, tie on the white wool, and work about three inches all white, never taking in, as this is for the band part. This is to correspond with the little Polish Pelisse. I think the band part in white looks better crochet, in the same way as the Miniver Muff, with two stitches of black here and there, to imitate fur. When finished, damp, and iron it on the wrong side of the crown, and leave it till quite dry. The crown may be lined with a bit of thin pasteboard, and the band part with leather, such as is used for gentlemen’s hats ; add a black cord and tassel to the crown, fastening it loosely at the side. There is much style in this Cap. CLXI.—LANCER’S PURSE. The above receipt worked in silk makes a very pretty Purse, with the addition of about an inch deep added to the bottom of the band part, in open stitch. When finished, draw it with a little piece of gold cord, If the edge of the crown were worked with a row of beads on it, and a few rows round the band part, it would look very well; so would a few on the open stitch part. ‘jain THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. CLXII.—KNIT BAG, IN SHADES, WORKED IN THE FEATHER SORT OF STITCH. This Bag looks well either knit in shades of common sized purse silk or Berlin wool, or 13 shades of pink, or any other colour preferred, and a white. The darkest shade commences at the bottom of the bag, five rounds of which are worked, the same with the other shades in regular succession, up to the lightest; so also with the white. Then the top part is worked in rib-stitch, as receipt will explain; three rows first with white, then three rows of seven of the shades, commencing next the white with the 2nd lightest ; then the 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th, 12th, and 13th or darkest, which cast off. This finishes the Bag. Knit or sew the bottom part together. The Handle is worked in a different stitch, which is explained in the following receipt ;. it is about nine inches long, and worked in shades, keeping the darkest in the centre; it is joined up to make it round, and sewed on at each side of the Bag. Add tassels of silk to suit. One hank of each of the shades of silk or wool, are required. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 8351 Gast on 160 stitches with darkest shade, on four wires No. 18; work with a fifth. © Ist Round, plain, and two more rounds. 4th Round, B3, P5, O, P, 0; P; 0, P; OP, 0, P) OP, 20, Pi @ P5; repeat all round. 5th Round, B3, P38, T, P15, Ts, P3; repeat all round. 6th Round, B3, P2, T, P15, Ts, P2; repeat all round. "th Round, B3, P, T, P15, Ts, P ; repeat all round. 8th Round, B3, T, P15, Ts; repeat all round. This finishes darkest shade. Tie on the 2nd shade, repeat from the 4th to 8th round; then work in succession every shade from the 4th round, until you have worked all the shades; then work with white as follows :— 1st Round, B3, P6, O, P, O, P, 0; P, 0, P, 0, P, 9, P6; repeat all round. 2nd Round, B3, P4, T, P11, Ts, PA; repeat all round. 8rd Round, B3, P3, T, P11, Ts, P38; repeat all round. 4th Round, B3, P2, T, P11, Ts, Pay repeat all round. 5th Round, B3, P, T, P11, Ts, P; repeat all round, : THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 6th Round, B3, T, P11, T; repeat all round. Now work as follows for neck part of Bag, with white :— Ist Row, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2; repeat all round. 2nd Row, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2; repeat all round. 3rd Row, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2, B2, P2; repeat all round. Repeat as these three rows, with each of 2nd lightest, 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th, 12th and 13th shades of pink. This finishes the Bag part. Cast it off. HANDLE. Work the handle as follows, with double wool or silk, and 2 pins No. 15. Cast on 8 stitches with the lightest pink. 1st Row, *O, 3,; repeat to end of row. Every row of the Handle is the same as this. Work a little less than an inch with each of the five following shades, 2nd lightest, 4th, 6th, 8th, and 10th; then &th, 6th, 4th, and 2nd lightest. Cast it off, and join it up length ways, by sewing it together, so that the handle may be round ; sew it on, and finish as before described. aw hen an open stitch occurs at the edge of a back row, have the thread in front before commencing, and pass it quite round the wire; then work the J. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 8353 CLXIIIl.—ROUND CROCHET CAP, ADAPTED FOR THE SAME PURPOSES AS THE POLISH CAP, WORKED IN DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH. This Cap is commenced in the centre, and worked and let out exactly as the round Hassock, but all in one colour, with a little margin of black at the edge of the crown, the pattern of which is two stitches black, and two of the colour of the Cap. Before commencing this pattern in black, the crown should measure in diameter 10 inches ; work one round all black, then another round the same as before of two stitches in black and two in the colour. Now begin to diminish in the same proportions as you have before increased, so as to diminish it to the size of the head, (the proper propor- tion should be 10 rows of diminishing, or taking in). Work about three inches for band, quite plain without intakes. Any of the patterns at the beginning of the book look well worked all in black, though I think the small scroll pattern would look best. When the band is finished, work a row of double crochet round the black edge on margin of crown ; to bring it to a sharper edge. Make it up as the Cap before. Vor. IL 354 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. CLXIV.—VERY PRETTY KNIT OPEN SWISS PATTERN FOR STOCKINGS, CUFFS, CAPS, &c. This stitch is a diamond, one half of it is ribbed, the other half open ; every alter- nate diamond is reversed. 1st Round, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B38, P—O, P, O. 2nd Round, P,Be,-r; Bs, bo, Bs, P} B38; PP Bs, PPPs: 8rd Round, P, B3, P, B3, P, B83, P, B3, P, B3, P, B38, P—O, P3, O. 4th Round, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B38, P—P5. 5th Round, P, B3, P, B3, P, B38, P, B3, P, B3, P, B38, P—O, P2, O, T, P, O. 6th Round, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P—P7. 7th Round, P, B3; P; Bs; PBs, P, B3, P, Bs, P; B38, P—0O, ‘PTO, PL @, TP, O. 8th Round, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B38, P—P9. 9th Round, P, x, B, P, 3, B, P, Tp B, P, 3, B, P, zy, BP; 1,.B, P—O, P8,T, O, P4, O. ? THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. B2, P, B2, P—P11. 9 p , 2, F3 10th Round, 11th Round, S ot Ay o eS a RS | A. ot jaa) oO it a; °o et at a 2 gh ws LO A. oS Ay Au i a Ay Ay aS aa ot | FQ Aa, Aa Aa a5 an Ga Ok AO Fo Ay Ay Ay ew Am am Aral RS asa. aa = -- anon erie POM A oa bl ato. mom.-FA 4 al A; > Ay Aa & Bae es EB BE o 8 aS po pa RS a4 83 A oO HOD ere ere a i A. i oO oo abe Ay O a Ay Ay eg ed a; AY es pa ar AG op A; Aa oof eh a; A ey Aa as A a----) AS Ay co aq = oJ e 8 pa as eK ae P—P21, B, A—O, P10, 0, T, P9, 0. 22nd Round, P, B, P—P R; 18th Round, 19th Round, / 20th Round, P, 23. 21st Round, A, 24th Round, plain. 25th Round, O, P, O—P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P. 26th Round, P3—P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P. 27th Round, O, P3, O—P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P. 28th Round, P5—P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P. 29th Round, O, P2, O, T, P, O—P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P. 30th Round, P7—P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P. 3lst Round, O, P, T, O, P, 0, T, P, O—P, B3, P, B3, P, B38, P, B3, P, B3, P Ba; 32nd Round, P9—P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P, B3, P. 33rd Round, O, P3, T, O, P4, O—P, x, B, P, IT BB, §, 3B, PB, 3%, Beery By Py By ae 34th Round, P11—P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P, 35th Round, O, P, T, 0, P5,0,T, P, O—P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P. ? THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 36th Round, P13—P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P, B2,.P,, B2,, P,.B2,.e. 37th Round, 0, P, T, O, P, O, T, P, T, 0, P, O, T, P, O—P, B2, P, B2, P,,.B2, P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P, 38th Round, P15—P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P, B2, P. 39th Round, 0, P3, T, O, P5, 0, T, PS, 5 i ee eh eR ee ‘gh pe ot Oe 40th Round, P17—P, B, P, B, P. B, P, i 3 Se Oo Pi och s Pa th 41st Round, 0, P8, 0, T, P7, 0,—P, CPB. Fs by ees B, Pubes 42nd Round, P19—P, B, P, B, P, B, P, B, P, B, P, B, P. 43rd Round, O, P7, T, O, P, O, T, P7, OA. B, A, beta Usk 44th Round, P21—P, B, P, B, Po Bars 45th Round, 0, P10, 0, T, P9, O—A, B, A. 46th Round, P23—P, B, P. 47th Round, 0, P23, O,—A. 48th Round, plain; repeat from first round. 358 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. CLXV.—KNIT OVER-ALL GAITER FOR A CHILD ABOUT FOUR YEARS OLD. This Gaiter has the foot and ancle of one colour, and the leg or stocking part in dices of two colours ; which is worked in the Hassock Stitch. The foot and ancle part black ; the stocking part, black and scarlet dices, to represent the Rob Roy Tartan, (or dark blue for foot and ancle, and the stocking part in dark blue and white dices, or any other colour preferred ; any close stitch may be substituted for the dices, as it requires some skill in carrying on the threads :—the simple pattern in the 9th Receipt of Vol. First, would look well, all worked in white like a stocking, with this difference only, —lst row, P3, B3; 2nd row, pearl; this being on two wires.) The foot and ancle part is all worked without breaking off the thread. When the knit part is all finished, sew it up the back, and bind round the foot part with silk binding of the same colour. Sew on (rather more to the front than to the back,) a little leather strap, about two inches long, and one and a half inches broad. This Gaiter may all be worked in double Berlin wool or four plies fleecy. Two ivory pins No. 12, and one ounce of scarlet, and two of black, are required. Cast on with black 30 stitches, for toe part. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 359 1st Row, plain. 2nd Row, O, S, T ; repeat to end of row. 3rd Row, O, S, T; repeat to end of row. Repeat as 2nd and 3rd rows 13 more times, which make in all, in- cluding the Qnd and 3r d rows, 24 single rows, or what appears 12 rows when worked. In working this stitch, you will observ rows to make what appears one. 25th Row, *M, edge—O, S, T; repeat O, S, T, to end of row. 26th Row, tM, edge—O, 5, T ; repeat O, S, work it B. 27th Row, *M, P, edge—O, S,, Ts plain. 28th Row, tM, P, edge—9, S, T ; repeat O, S, T, to end of row, all but two stitches, work them B2. * Make a stitch, by working a stitch directly from the row below, taking so as to increase a stitch, + Make a stitch as before, e, it takes two T, to end of row, all but one stitch, repeat O, S, T, to end of row, all but one stitch it from the front of the row, only observe to work it from the back of row. 360 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 29th Row, O, P2, edge—O, 8, T; repeat O, S, T, to end of row, all but two stitches, work them P2, 30th Row, +M, P2, edge—O, S, T; repeat O, S, T, to end of row. You will ob- serve by this you have increased three stitches each side more than the original stitches. 8ist Row, O, 8, T; repeat O, S, T, to end of row; then repeat as this row 7 more times. 89th Row, as 25th row ; then work the sagh 5 rows successively on to the 30th. 45th Row, O, S, T— 0,8 S, T—O, S, T—O, S, T—O, S, T ; this is for the side part of Gaiter. Leave the 27 rem: 1ining stitches that are on the left pin ; you may keep them on it without w orking, or, if preferred, lift them on to a thread until they are required again. Now work back the 15 stitches as follows :— 46th Row, O, S, T—O, 8, T—O, 8, T—O, S, T—O, §, T. This brings you to the foot end of the 15 stitches; now repeat as the 45th and the 46th rows } Make a stitch as before, only observe to work it from the back of row. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 361 13 more times, making in all 28 single rows, or what appears 14 rows when worked. ‘This finishes one side part of Gaiter. Before casting off, count the top side loops; you will have 14, if you have worked properly. Cast off thus :— Cast off 15 stitches ; work the first stitch P, then T; lift the first stitch over the T’. Repeat working P and T, always casting off each stitch as you work it; this is to confine the stitch, having the last cast off stitch still on your right hand pin; then *pick up and work the 14 top side loops plain. Now work the 27 stitches that were left before on the pin or thread, thus, O, S, T to end of this row. Now commence the other side piece of Gaiter, by working up the 15 stitches as before. Leave the 12 stitches for instep on the wire, or lift them on to a thread, until requir- ed. Work the side pieces as follows :— * The part of loop that is taken is not the side next to you, but that part of the loop that is on the outside of the work. Also observe, when you work the last picked up stitch, which is the one nearest the instep stitches, work with it a stitch from the side next you, but it is one stitch nearer the toe than the picked up stitch ; this is to prevent making a hole. 362 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Ist Row, O, S, T—O, 8, T—O, S, T—O, S, T—O, S, T; this brings you to the top part of the 15 stitches. 2nd Row, O, S, T—O, S, T—O, 8S, T—O, S, T—O, S, T; this brings you to the ist Row, foot part of the 15 stitches. Work up and down as these two rows, until you have 14 top side loops; then cast these 15 stitches off as before. Now pick up the 14 top side loops, and work them exactly as before, to correspond with the other side of Gaiter. Now work the 12 instep stitches, thus, O, $, T—O, S, T—O, 8, T—O, S, "3 then the other side of Gaiter thus, O, S, P—O, S, P—O, S, P—O, $, P—O, 8, P— O, S, P—O, §, T; this brings you to the end of ag row. Next row as follows: O,S, T'; and repeat O, S, T, until you have only the 15 stitches for the other side of Gaiter on n the pin 7 work them thus, 0, S, P—O, S, —0O, 8, P—O, S, P—O, S, P—O, S, P—O, S, T;; this finishes the row. ‘The entire rows for its part, commencing here, is worked as ue ), S, T, repeat to end of row. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 363 2nd Row, 0, S, T, repeat to end of row. Repeat as Ist and 2nd rows 14 more times ; then finish with 6 plain gaiter stitch rows, sliping the first stitch of every row, and make a stitch at the beginning of the four last rows after you have slipped the edge stitch ; this is to increase it to its proper number of stitches to commence the dice pattern. There are required for it 56 stitches, and two for edge stitches, making in all 58 stitches. Now commence the Dice Pattern. Care must be taken that the threads be left loose from dice to dice, and that they should have a twist together before working each dice. Tie on the scarlet and work as follows :— Ist Row, S edge—tP4 in scarlet, then P4 in black ; repeat from mark { to end of row, edge P. 2nd Row, S edge—tP4 in black, then B4 in scarlet ; repeat from mark { to end of row, edge P. THE LADY $8 WORK BOOK. 364 3rd Row, S edge—{P4 in scarlet, then B4 in black ; repeat from mark } to end of row, edge P. 4th Row, S edge—tP4, in black, then B4 in scarlet ; repeat from mark {to end of row, edge P, 5th Row, S edge—}P4 in black, then P4 in scarlet ; repeat from mark} to end of row, edge P. 6th Row, S edge—tB4 in scarlet, then P4 in black; repeat from mark { to end of row, edge P. 7th Row, S edge—B4 in black, then P4 in scarlet ; repeat from mark } to end of row, edge P. Sth Row, S edge—B4 in scarlet, then P4 in black ; repeat from mark } to end of row, edge P. Continue working the black and scarlet dices until they measure about four inches; then finish with twelve rows of ribbing all in black, as follows :— Ist Row, S edge—B2, P2, to end. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 365 2nd Row, must be worked exactly the reverse way from the other stitches, viz. when it was B2 in the former row, it must, in the back row, be P2. Repeat till the 12 rows are done. Cast them off. CLXVI.—VERY LIGHT AND ELEGANT SQUARE NET DRESS SHAWL. This Shawl is net in black China(or Buffon) silk, about the thickness of Taylor’s Persian cotton, No. 12. Some ladies have worked it in cotton, but I do think the labour too great for the material, although it looks very well. The beauty of this Shawl consists greatly in the simplicity of the execution, as it is worked simply in broad stripes of large net, and a narrow stripe of small. When the Shawl is worked square, it must be doubled from one angle to another, which now makes the pattern of netting appear as if they were net in squares. It certainly takes a great while to net, but that is not always an objection to a piece of elegant work. One quarter pound of silk, and ‘meshes No. 7, No. 8, and No. 17, are required. Cast on 220 stitches. Ist Row, work with a round No. 8 mesh, plain, and 11 more rows. ay = rT. 366 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 13th Row, work with a round No. 7 mesh, working three stitches in every stitch of former row. 14th Row, work with No. 17 mesh, and three more rows. 18th Row, work with No. 7 mesh, plain. 19th Row, work with No. 8 mesh, taking three stitches into one. This forms a broad stripe and a narrow. Continue working from first row until you have worked this Shawl quite square. Damp and pin it out quite square until dry ; then adda knotted fringe all round. This fringe, which is done with four fold of the silk in the needle at once, is worked exactly as the one described for Shetland Shawl, only tying a loop in every other stitch of this Shawl. CLXVII._KNIT OPEN LACE SCARF, WITH SHADED ENDS, IN A WAVE PATTERN. This Scarf is worked in English embroidery lamb’s-wool, the ends in stripes of five shades of blue, or any other colour preferred, (shades of scarlet look well) intervened by THE LADY S WORK BOOK. 367 a narrow stripe of white; three stripes of the shades and two of the white form one end. ‘The end stitch is the same as in Receipt 40 of Volume I. This stitch, from the way it is worked, takes a wave appearance. The stitch which forms the centre of Scarf is the round spider net, as Receipt 107 of this Volume. All the centre of the Scarf is done in white. One hank of each shade, four of white, and two pins No. 8 are required. Cast on 122 stitches with darkest blue. 1st Row, plain, and six more rows. 8th Row, 8, P6, edge—B3, O, P4, T, P6, T, P4, O— edge B3, P7. 9th Row, 8, P9, edge—B, O, B4, y, B4, 1, B4, O, B, P3— edge P7. 10th Row, S, P6, edge—B3, P2, O, P4, T, P2, T, P4, 0, P2— edge B3, P7. 11th Row, 8, P9, edge—B3, O, B4, 7, Z B4, 9; B3, P3— edge P7. Now repeat the same with all the other four shades in succession, from the 8th to the 11th row; then work from the 8th to the 11th row three times in white, then repeat again the blue stripe and the white; then again only the blue stripe. This finishes one end. fy’ 368 THE LADY S WORK BOOK. Now Commence the Centre with White. 1st Row, S, P2, edge—rest of row plain (but take it in three times about the middle of the 2nd Row, S, P2, 8rd Row, S, P2, 4th Row, S, P2, 5th Row, S, P2, 6th Row, S, P2, 7th Row, 8S, P2, Sth Row, S, P2, 9th Row, 8, P2, 10th Row, 8, P2, T| io) row so as to make the centre stitch come in properly)— edge P3. edge—rest pearl— edge P3. edge—P3—+T, O, P, O, T, P; repeat from mark +—edge P5. edge—B2, ,—+0, B3, O, y*; repeat from mark +, B2—edge P3. edge—P3—t0, T, P, T, O, P; repeat from mark t— edge P5. edge—B2—1B, O, x, B, x, 0; repeat from mark +, B3—edge P3, edge—P3—t0, T, P, T, O, P; repeat from mark +— edge P35. edge-—B—+B3, 0, y, 0; repeat from mark +, B4—_ edge P3. edge—P3—+T, O, P, O, T, P; repeat from mark t— edge P5. edge—B2—1B, yz, O, B, O, 7,3 repeat from mark +, B3—edge P3- Repeat from the 3rd row to the 10th until you have made the Scarf sufficiently long—(it should measure altogether from two and a half to three yards long.) Then work the two following rows :— * In repeating this y the last time at the end of the row, work it J, otherwise you will be deficient a stitch to conclude the row. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 369 Ist Row, 8, P2, edge—rest plain— edge P38. 2nd Row, 8, P2, edge—rest of row pearl, but let it out three times to correspond with the row, before commencing the centre, as otherwise the other end would not work properly in— edge P3. Now work the other end to correspond with the shaded one worked. Dress this as Shetland Shawl; add fringe to the ends. CLXVIIL.—DIRECTIONS FOR KNITTING A SQUARE SHAWL WITH SHADED BORDER. Cast on 250 stitches for centre, or white part. For this Shawl, 2 pins, No. 8, with knobs, are required, and 4 without knobs, for the border. It may be worked. all in white, any open stitch, with a border in colours in the same stitch as the ends of the Scarf. The centre or square part of the Shawl in white, must first be worked and cast off, then the side stitches picked up all round. The coloured part is let out one stitch every other round before coming to the corner stitch, then let out one after it; this is done at every corner, and forms two rows of holes down each corner of the shaded border. Say nine shades; and work the pattern once over with every VOL, Il. A@ 370 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. shade. Three hanks white Lady Betty for centre, and 4 hanks each shade of Berlin wool, for border, are required. Commence with lightest, and work to darkest shade. BBE co wide Seo dots by cman eh scremicaen Se Pact o0's then making « attch by tang (or pierce ite at the below and working it; if this is not attended to, the work would be too tight for the centre. Dress it same as Shetland Shawl. CLXIX,—TRIANGULAR SHAWL WITH SHADED BORDER, Cast on 250 stitches for white part. This may be worked in the same way as the foregoing Square Shawl, by casting on the stitches all at first, and taking it in at each side on the open row, (which is every other row,) until you have brought it to a point. Then pick up the stitches, for the shaded border, at the two sides, working them the same way as the Square Shawl; in the second row, observe to let out one stitch, by making an O, at the beginning of the side, (then at the point,) one before the point stitch, and one after it; then let out one at the end of the row ; this is only done every other row. When finished, dress it as before described for Shetland Shawl. Any of the Feather Patterns in First, or in this Second Volume, look well for this waving sort of border. Two ivory pins No. 9, three hanks white Lady Betty, and four hanks each of nine shades of gold-colour Berlin wool, for border, are required. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 371 CLXX.—SIMPLE AND PRETTY BLACK NET SCARF, Worked in stitch as described in Receipt 101, Volume I. and Plate No. 4. This Scarf is worked with black China silk, about the size of Tailor’s Persian cotton, No. 10. When worked, damp, and stretch it out, leave it till quite dry ; draw up the ends, add tassels to suit. About 3 ounces of silk, and 4 round meshes, Nos. 10, 12, 16, and 19, are required. Cast on 550 stitches for the length. Work with a No. 10 round mesh, 150 rows for breadth, according to the receipt in Volume I. then continue and work the edges of it as follow :— One Row with Mesh No. 12, plain. One Row with Mesh No. 16, plain. One Row with Mesh No. 19, plain; this finishes one edge. Now return and work the other edge to the first row worked, as follows :-—~ One Row with Mesh No, 12. One Row with Mesh No. 16. One Row with Mesh No. 19. 372 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. CLXXI.—VERY SIMPLE AND ELEGANT KNIT BAG. This Bag is worked in claret purse silk and gold beads, or any other colour pre- ferred,—black and steel look very well. It is worked exactly as the Garnet or Jet Bag in Volume First,—simply working three plain rows and a row with beads, as following Receipt will show. Six hanks of common sized purse silk, 12 rows of gold beads No. 10, and two wires No. 20, are required. Cast on 80 stitches. Ist Row, plain, and 2 more rows. 4th Row, P2, Ps, edge—P3, Pz; repeat to end of row—edge P. 5th Row, plain, and 2 more rows. 8th Row, P4, Ps, edge—P3, Px; repeat to end of row—edge P3 Repeat from first row, until you have 10 inches worked, which concludes the Bag, after adding the three plain rows at the last, to correspond with the three first rows ; join it up the sides. This Bag may either be drawn with rings when made up, or with two cords and sliders, from which the Bag is suspended. Gold tassels and cord, for a dress Bag, looks well. THE LADY'S WORK BO 373 CLXXII.—VERY PRETTY KNIT FRINGE FOR BED-COVERS, SHAWLS, &c. The tail part of this Fringe is cut in lengths, to suit the taste of the worker This receipt is written for German wool, the head part in white, the tails coloured. Cut the tails each about a quarter of a yard long, double it, but do not cut it; the one end of course forms a loop, the other two ends. Cast on 6 stitches with white. 1st Row, slip the first stitch, take one of the coloured tails, double it as described before, pass the loop part of it between the pins to the back part of the knitting over your forefinger of left hand, having the two ends of the tail towards you; knit one plain white stitch, then bring the coloured loop from the back forward, then knit two plain stitches ; bring forward the white wool, lift the coloured loop on to the right hand pin, and pass the white wool again to the back, by this means it binds the coloured loop - *2 plain white stitches. * In repeating the first row, you will perceive you have a coloured loop before the two plain white stitches, therefore work it with the first plain stitch, in the same manner you would work a T. 374 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. 2nd Row, slip the first stitch, one plain white stitch, slip the coloured loop, 4 plain white stitches ; repeat from first row. The whole Fringe is knit as these two rows. CLXXIII.—VERY PRETTY AND SIMPLE FRINGE FOR D’OYLEYS, SHAWLS, TIDIES, BED-COVERS, &c. This Fringe has a small open head, with cut cotton or worsted fringe part, If worked in worsted for a Shawl, cut the fringe pieces about a quarter of a yard long. Cast on 6 stitches for head part. Ist Row, S, O, T; then double one of the cut pieces, and hang the loop part of it on the point of the right hand wire, leaving the two ends at the back, then P2 ; now bring the two ends to the front, then P. 2nd Row, P2; then knit the loop part that was hung on the point of the pin and the next stitch together, as you would work a T; then P38. Work the whole of the Fringe as these two rows. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 375 CLXXIV.—TIDY PATTERN IN ROWS OF DIAMONDS OF EYELET HOLES, AND OPEN STITCH ALTERNATELY. Two wires No. 18, and three hanks No. 24 Dutch cotton. Cast on 116 stitches for this pattern. Ist Row, S, P, edge—plain and 2 more rows. 4th Row, S, P, edge, +P2, O, T—P5, T, O, P, 0, T, P4; repeat from mark + to end of row, all but six stitches; work them thus :—T, 0, P2—edge P2. 5th Row, S, P, edge—z, O, B2—+B3, J, O, B3, 0, x, B4—B2, O, J, 3 repeat from mark + to end of row—edge P2. 6th Row, S, P, edge, +P2, O, T—P5, O, T, P, T, O, P4; repeat from mark + to end of row, all but six stitches; work them thus :—T, O, F2—edge P2. 7th Row, S, P, edge—yz,, O, B2, +B4, O, 1, 0, B, O: 1; O, B5—B2, O, x, ; repeat from mark + to end of row—edge P2. 8th Row, S, P, edge, +P2, O, Pops 80; P, 0; TA; TO, P, 0, T, P ; repeat from mark + to end of row, all but six stitches; work them thus:—T, O, P2—edge P2. 376 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK, 9th Row, S, P, edge—j, O, B2, tz, O, B3, O, y, O, B83, O, 7, B—B2, O, T; repeat from mark + to end of row—edge P2. 10th Row, S, P, edge—t+P2, O, T—P2, O, T, P, T,O, P, O, T; P, T, O, Ps; repeat from mark + to end of row all but six stitches; work them thus :—T, O, P2—edge P2. 1lth Row, 8, P, edge—z, O, B2, +B, O, 7, O, B, O, 7, 0, B, O, 7, O, B, O, 7, O, B2—B2, O, 7, ; repeat from mark + to end of row—edge P2. 12th Row, S, P, edge—tP2, 0, T—P2, O, T, A, T, O, P, O, T, A, T, O, P; repeat from mark + to end of row all but six stitches ; work them thus :—T, O, P2—edge P2. 13th Row, S, P, edge—yq, O, B2, +B2, 0, y, O, B3, O, y, O, B3, B2, O, z, ; repeat from mark + to end of row—edge P2. 14th Row, S, P, edge—+P2, O, T—P5, 0, T, P, T,O, P4; repeat from mark + to end of row all but six stitches; work them thus:—T, 0, P2—edge P22. 15th Row, S, P, edge, 7, O, B2—1B4, O, 7, O. B,O, 1, 0, P5—B2, O, 7; repeat from mark + to end of row—edge P2 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. 377 16th Row, §, P, edge—\P2, oO, T—P5, O, T A:T, 0, £S;5 repeat from mark + to end of row, all but six stitches, work them thus -—T, 0, P2—edge P2. 17th Row, S, P, edge—1 O, B2,t BS, 0, y> O, B6, B2, 0, 13 repeat from mark + to end of row—edge P2. 18th Row, 5, P, edge—tP2, oO, T—P14; repeat from mark + to end of row all but six stitches, work them thus :—T, 0, P2—edge P2. 19th Row, S, P, edge—L O, B2,t B14,—B2, 0, 13 repeat from mark row—edge P2. Repeat from 4th row until you have worked half as much more than the square ; finish with 3 plain rows. + to end of Edging for Tidy or Insertion. T, P, 0, T, B. ? T, Es O, T, B. very row is the same. d ‘Ist Row, S, P2, 2nd Row, 8, P2 & 378 TE LADY’S WORK BOOK, CLXXV.—TIDY OR TOILET COVER. This Tidy is finer than the one given before in this Book, (but it may also be worked for a fellow to this one, by adding to the former stitches 2] more, and working with the same cotton and wires as this Receipt.) When worked, it looks well lined with thin coloured Persian, and finished the same way as the other Tidy. Three hanks of No, 24 Dutch cotton, and two pins of No. 13, are required. If this Receipt is wished to be worked for a Toilet Cover, you must add stitches in numbers of 12, (as it takes 12 stitches to form a leaf,) to suit the size of cover required. It also makes a very pretty Bed-cover. Cast on 114 stitches. Ist Row, S, P2, edge—plain rest of row ; edge P3. 2nd Row, S, P2, edge—pearl rest of row ; edge P3, srd Row, S, P2, edge—plain rest of row ; edge P3. 4th Row, S, P2, edge—pearl rest of row; edge P3. 5th Row, S, P2, edge—P, O, P3, Tr, P, T, P3, 0 ; repeat—edge P38. THE LADY’S WORK BOOK, 379 6th Row, S, P2, edge—pearl rest of row edge P3. "th Row, S, P2, edge—P2, O, P2, Tr, P, T, P2, 9, P ; repeat—edge P3. 8th Row, S, P2, edge—pearl rest of row; edge P3. 9th Row, S, P2, edge—P3, O; P, Tr, P, T, P, O, P2; repeat—edge P3. 10th Row, S, P2, edge—pearl rest of row ; edge P38. 11th Row, S, P2, edge—P4, O, Tr P,.T:,0i P35 repeat—edge P3. 12th Row, S, P2, edge—pearl rest of row ; edge P3, 13th Row, S, P2, edge—P5, O, A, O, P4; repeat—edge Pos 14th Row, S, P2, edge—pearl rest of row; edge P3. 15th Row, S, P2, edge—P, T, P3, O, P, O, P38, Tr ; repeat—edge Pa 16th Row, 8, P2, edge—pearl rest of row ; edge P38. 17th Row, 8, P2, edge—P, T, P2, O, P38, O, P2, Tr ; repeat—edge P32: 18th Row, 8, P2, edge—pearl rest of row; edge P3. 19th Row, S, P2, edge—P, T, P, 0, P5, O, P, Tr; repeat—edge P3 20th Row, 8, P2, edge—pearl rest of row ; edge P3. 21st Row, 8, P2, edge—P, T, Gg. Pu, it; repeat—edge P3. Eee, ee 380 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 22nd Row, S, P2, edge—pearl rest of row ; edge P3. 23rd Row, S, P2, edge—T, O, P9, tO, A, O, Pg; repeat from mark thus + to end of row—edge T, P2. 24th Row, S, P2, edge—pearl rest of row; edge P3, Repeat from 5th row until the work measures about a half more than a square; then finish as Ist, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows. CLXXVIL—OPEN STITCH FOR FOUR WIRES. Cast on 6 stitches for each pattern, Ist Row, plain. 2nd Row, T, P, T, O, P, O. 3rd Row, A, O, Pe;-O: 4th Row, plain. 5th Row, P2, T, P2. 6th Row, P, T, O, O, Ont 7th Row, P3, B, P2. 8th Row, plain. THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. 381 9th Row, P, O, T, P, T, O. 10th Row, P2, 0, A, O, P. 11th Row, plain round and *one more stitch. 12th Row, plain. 13th Row, plain. 14th Row, plain. Repeat from second round. At the end of each wire, in repeating the pattern, you will be deficient a stitch, in consequence of the plain round with the one more stitch, therefore work it from off the following wire. CLXXVII.—VERY PRETTY CROCHET EDGING FOR COLLARS, CUFFS, CAPS, PETTICOATS, TIDIES, TOILET COVERS, &e. AS ENGRAVINGS AT BEGINNING OF BOOK. This Crochet Edging, (which is in appearance very like the open stitch Receipt 127, Vol. I.) I shall give as a useful Trimming for the bottom of a Petticoat, * This one more stitch is merely to work the first stitch from off the wire next to that one which you concluded the plain round on, and must be knit off on to the wire you have just concluded the plain round on; this is to make the pattern work in properly when it is repeated from the 2nd round, 382 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Ist Row, Cast on as many chain stitches as will measure the length you require, with Taylor’s Persian cotton No, 4, and a steel hook gauging No. 19. At the end and beginning of the chain stitch, or foundation row, sew on a piece of tape about an inch wide, so as to form a good beginning and ending. Every row of this trimming the thread must be cut off, so as to begin at the other end. 2nd Row, insert your hook through the first loop of foundation, which should be on the tape; then bring a loop through in the usual way, (of course, through the tape also) ; then work another loop directly above it, also through the tape, this is for the edge or beginning; then *2 chain stitches, without being on the tape; then throw on a stitch on your needle by casting the thread over it; insert the hook into the third loop on the foundation from the one before worked, (by this you pass two loops without working) catching the thread in from behind, and pulling it through ; you have now three loops on your needle; now throw on a stitch on your hook, and pull it through the first loop next the point of the hook, by this you have still three loops on your hook; again THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. 383 throw on a stitch, draw it through the two first loops on the point of the hook; now throw on another, and draw it through the two remain- ing on the hook ; by this you have now only one loop on your hook. This finishes one stitch, recommence again from the *2 chain stitches, and work exactly as above described to the end of the row. 3rd Row, insert your needle through the top and the tape loop that was worked on the tape, work it, and then another stitch above it, on the tape, as you did in the row before this; then *2 chain stitches (not on the tape) ; - throw on a stitch on the hook, by casting the thread over it; then, in- stead of inserting the hook into the third stitch, as in the former row, insert the needle through the first open part of the work, and work the stitch over the two chain stitches of former row, in the following way :— Having inserted the needle in the large hole, catch the thread in from behind, and pull it through the hole, by this you have three loops on your hook ; throw on a loop on the hook, and draw it through the first loop on the point of the hook; then throw on another loop, and draw it 384 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. through the two nearest the point of the hook, you have now two loops on your hook ; then again throw on another loop; draw it through the two remaining on the hook, you have now one loopon the needle. This finishes one stitch, recommence and work from the *2 chain stitches exactly as above described. 4th Row, exactly the same as 8rd. 5th Row—for vandyke edge—insert your needle in the large hole, and work a double tambour stitch round the 2 chain stitches of former row, then *7 chain stitches; attach them to the next 2 chain stitches of former row, by working a double tambour stitch round them. This finishes one scollop ; recommence and work every scollop from the *7 chain stitches as above ; thus continue to end of row. CLXXVIII—CROCHET EDGING FOR BODY OF PETTICOATS. AS ENGRAVING AT BEGINNING OF BOOK. If this Edging is wished for the trimming of the body of the Petticoat, use Taylor’s Persian cotton No. 6, a coarse steel needle, and an ivory screw handle. Work only as Ist and 2nd rows of the foregoing receipt, and finish with the 5th row. THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. 385 CLXXIX.—CROCHET EDGING FOR FINE HANDKERCHIEFS, CUFFS, COLLARS, &c. AS ENGRAVINGS AT BEGINNING OF BOOK. Work as Ist, 2nd, 3rd, and 5th rows of foregoing receipt, with Taylor’s Persian cotton No. 12, and a fine steel needle with screw handle, CLXXX.—NARROW CROCHET BEADING, OR INSERTION. AS ENGRAVING AT BEGINNING OF BOOK. Work as Ist and 2nd rows of foregoing receipt ; if wished wider, work as 3rd row. This looks well worked in No. 12 or No. 8 cotton. CLXXXIW~BABY’S SINGLE CROCHET-STITCH BOOT. This Boot is worked exactly as the long and short Mittens for children, pages 317—323. The top edge of Boot has two rows of blue, the little stocking is in white, the foot or shoe part in blue ; when finished, it is turned out, the sole or side part is then worked together, and a little piece of the coloured wool crochet, for a string to tie them with, which is drawn through the ancle part; a little cut tuft is put on the fore foot, if wished. They are very quickly made, as in a few hours a pair VOL, Il, Bb THE LADY’S WORK BOOK, could with much ease be accomplished; and they are very pretty, comfortable, and warm. One hank of white wool, four plies of fleecy, one of coloured, and a hook gauging No. 8, are required. Cast on 22 chain stitches with blue, join them to form the round, (the join is the back of the Boot ;) you have now 21 stitches only; then work (very loose) as follows :— 1st Round, with blue, plain single stitch. 2nd Round, with white, plain single stitch, and 4 more rounds. 7th Round, white, but take the part of loop which is next to you, as described in the Mitten Receipts, (158rd Receipt of this Volume,) and six more rounds. Commence and let out for fore foot as follows :-— 14th Round, 7 stitches, work the next stitch; then let out, by working it again from the back part of the stitch,* mark it; then five stitches, work the next stitch, and let out from the back of it, as before—tmark it; this * Mark the made stitch while it is on the hook, in the same way as described for the marked stitches in thumb of Mittens. t+ Every out-let stitch should be marked. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 387 is the second outlet, (every row ‘s let out in the same way,) then seven stitches. 15th Round, work 8 stitches, work the next stitch, (being the stitch before the first marked one,) then let out from the back part, as before 5 work on to the stitch before the second marked one, work it, and let out from the back of it as before ; then work to the back as 1st round. 16th Round, work on to the stitch before the first marked stitch, work it, then let out from the back part, as before; mark it, then work every stitch until you come to the stitch before the second marked one ; work it, and let out from the back of it, mark it, and then one stitch ; cut off the white wool, leaving about an inch or little more at back, Then *commence at the stitch before the first let out stitch that was worked and marked in this row; pull through the thread from the back, which makes a loop on the hook, then let out from the back of the stitch as before ; work onto the stitch before the second let out stitch which was * In commencing, do not tie on the wool, but merely pull it through from the back, leaving about one inch or more of an end at the back ; then let out from the back part of the loop as before. (ay 388 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. marked, work it, and let out a stitch from the back, mark it, then one stitch. Now take the *loop and the following stitch to it, and work them off as one stitch; then work to the middle of back, which finishes this round. 17th Round, as 16th, always increasing a stitch before the first marked one, and before the second marked one. 18th Round, same as 16th. 19th Round, work only from back to the stitch before the first marked stitch, work it, and let, out, as before, on it ; then work to the stitch before the second marked stitch, work it, and let out from back, then one stitch ; cut the thread off. Now work shoe part in blue, as follows :— Ist Round, commence with blue one stitch before the first marked one, then let out * This loop is the last stitch that was worked ; before cutting off the thread, which must be worked off with the next stitch to it, by taking them both on the hook at once, first the one beyond the loop, then the loop, and work them off as one stitch ; if you take the loop on the hook first, then the stitch beyond it, it does not look so well, THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 389 from back of it; work to the first stitch before the second marked stitch, work it, and let out from back of it, then work all round to tho first stitch before the first marked stitch, work it, and let out as before, then work to the stitch before the second marked stitch, work it, and let out as before, then one stitch ; cut the thread off. 2nd Round, same as Ist, always increasing before the marked stitches. 8rd Round, same as Ist, always increasing before the marked stitches. 4th Row, commence at the second stitch past the first marked stitch at toe; work the first stitch from the back part of the loop, the rest of the row the same as before; work until you have only three stitches from the second marked stitch; cut off the thread. This is to bring the toe to a narrow point. 5th Row, commence at the fourth stitch past the first marked stitch, work the first stitch from the back part of the loop, then work, as before, until you have only five stitches from the second marked stitch; cut the thread off. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 6th Round, commence on the stitch before the first marked stitch, work it, and let out a stitch from the back part of loop, work on to the stitch before the second marked one; work it, and let out from the back part of it, then work round to the middle of the back. Now turn the Boot out to the wrong side, and join the two sides of sole part together. Observe to take hold of the same part of the loops as you would had you been working on the right side—(they, of course, are not the parts of the loop next you, but those that are on the right side of work ; if this is not attended to, the join will be very apparent in the right side)—work as follows,—take hold of the inside loop of the stitch next to the one the thread is at- tached to, and also the one opposite to it on the other side of sole, then work them off as one stitch. Continue working in this way until you have only eleven stitches left for toe part, do not break off the thread, but leave the loop; square down the eleven toe stitches, having the last. loop you worked on the sole exactly in the centre of them, (or the middle stitches exactly opposite it;) now crochet them together as THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. 391 you did the sole, so as to form a square toe, by beginning at the part nearest your right hand. Run all the ends neatly in, which finishes. CLXXXII.—CROCHET STOCKING WITH COLOURED SHOE, FOR CHILDREN. These Stockings are worked exactly like little Boots, (only much larger in the white leg part) and with the same materials. Cast on 26 stitches, join them to form the round ; you have now 25 stitches. Work exactly as top of the foregoing Boot down to the 13th round; now *take in at the back part of the Stocking for four successive rounds. Then work five rounds without taking in ; now continue from 14th round of Boot receipt until the whole is finished. CLXXXIII.—OVERALL CROCHET GAITER, FOR CHILDREN. Cast on 26 stitches, join them to form the round; you have now 25 stitches. The leg part is worked precisely the same as the above Crochet Stocking receipt. + Take two stitches on the hook at once, and crochet them off as one stitch. 892 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. When you have worked all the white part, finish with two plain rounds in colour, letting out at the stitch before the marked stitches: this concludes the Gaiter. Add a little strap, same as the other Knit Gaiter in a former receipt of this volume. Note.—I have much pleasure in stating for those who may use this book with a view to emolument, that the Crochet Mittens given in this volume, and the three foregoing Crochet Receipts, alone were sufficient to support a large family, who worked them for several shops in town. CLXXXIV.—GENTLEMEN’S KNIT NIGHT-CAP. Cast on 340 stitches with darkest shade of wool; work with 5 wires No. 18. This Cap is worked in succession of shades, in the same way and stitch as the Bag receipt, No. 162 of this volume. Pink and white alternately, look well. Work about two inches, three pearl and three plain; then about eight inches or so of the shaded open pattern, according to the taste of the wearer ; then begin to take it in every alternate round, at the beginning and middle of each wire, by which you take in eight stitches THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 393 in the round, always continuing the shades as usual, only working them without a pattern. The round next to the round taken in, is always worked plain. Repeat until you have only a few stitches on each wire; draw them up; fasten them neatly on the wrong side; add a soft tassel or tuft at top. CLXXXV.—VERY USEFUL CROCHET NIGHT-CAP FOR GENTLEMEN. This Cap may either be worked all white, or in Turkey-red and white cotton, which takes off the common appearance of the white Cap. It is all worked in the same stitch, and taken in, in the same way as the Mitten. About a quarter pound of Dutch cotton No. 6, and a hook (gauging) No. 12, are required. Cast on 150 stitches with Turkey-red. Work one round in single stitch ; and 9nd and 3rd rounds, in the stitch, taking hold of the under part of the loop. 4th Round, plain. 5th Round, with white, plain, and one more round 394 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 7th Round, with red, plain. 8th Round, with red, taking hold of the under part of the loop, and one more round. 10th Round, with white, taking hold of the under part of the loop, and eight more rounds. 19th Round, with red, taking hold of the under part of loop, and one more round, 21st Round, with red, plain, 22nd Round, with white, plain, and one more round. 24th Round, with red, plain. 25th Round, with red, taking hold of the under part of the loop, and one more round. 27th Round, with red, plain. This finishes the turn-up part of the Cap. You must now turn the Cap on the wrong side, and work back the next row, so as the turn-up part, when the Cap is finished, may show the right side. Now work, with white, as follows :— 28th Row, with white, taking hold of the under part of the loop. Work on as this last round until the Cap measures from this round up nine THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 395 inches; then take in, as in the Knit Cap, eight times on each alternate round, until you have about 40 stitches only ; draw them up with a needle (thread with the same cotton,) and fasten it on the wrong side; add a soft tassel, mixed with both colours, at the top of the Cap. If wished, you can introduce an open row in red, about two inches apart, throughout the white part of Cap, which looks very well. APPENDIX. DIRECTIONS AND REMARKS FOR WORKING IN EMBROIDERY OR WORSTED WORK, RAISED CUT WORK, TATTING, NETTING, KNITTING, CROCHET-WORK, &c &c. Worx Frame ror Tapestry, Emprowery, &c.—The Frame I recommend as preferable to all others in use, is a Frame standing from the ground, with two upright pillars and feet, and a stretcher across the foot to correspond. The top, and most essential part, has two rollers and two stretching swords, with holes down the side for the four pegs, to keep it extended. The frame should be strong but neatly made, and may be ornamented, if preferred. The most useful size for working Chairs, Screens, Stools, Ottomans, &c. is a three-fourths. cas 398 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. INSERTING THE CANVAS IN THE FRAME.—First mark the exact centre of it before commencing to sew it in—(I always prefer beginning every piece of worsted work in the centre) ; then turn down about half an inch of the canvas, and sew it to the rollers. You may over-edge the canvas before sewing it to the rollers, to prevent its un- rayelling, though it is not at all necessary ; but be particular that it is sewn in exactly even by a thread, otherwise the work cannot be even. Roll up each roller with the canvas, until you have left about three-eighths of canvas exactly in the centre. Put in two pegs at one of the rollers ; stretch the other roller as far as it will go, to make it quite tight ; then put in the other two pegs. Observe, before putting in the other two pegs, that the number of holes from one roller to the other on both sides count the same, otherwise the work will not be even. Now lace the selvage side over the stretching swords with a fine hemp cord, which is stronger than any other, and, having no elasticity in itself, it keeps the work quite tight. Never take your stitches further apart than half an inch ; and take hold of about eight threads of the canvas inside the stretching sword. Worsted work, when finished, is much im- proved by being damped and ironed on the wrong side ; for this purpose take an old THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 399 cambric handkerchief, dip it into cold water, wring it, then lay it on the back of the work, and iron it, which sends the steam through to the right side, and brightens and refreshes the work very much. Framine crorm anp canvas roceTuer.—In stretching canvas and cloth together, let your cloth be smaller than the canvas you are going to work on, for as cloth stretches more to the width than the length, allowance must be made for that. Suppose, for instance, you are going to put a three-fourth square of canvas on the top of the cloth to work your pattern on, the cloth should be one and a half inches less in the width, and one inch less in the length than the canvas. In order to make your cloth quite even at each side, double your canvas up, first long ways, then broad ways; the thick or middle corner of which will be your centre. Do the same with the cloth. After marking both, unfold them, and tack the cloth and canyas exactly together in the centre; then pin the cloth and canvas exactly round the edges, stretching the cloth, of course, at the same time as you pin it round ; sew them together. By this you will see the canvas looks full on the cloth. Turn down the canvas and cloth about half an inch, and sew it to the strapping on the 400 THE LADY S WORK BOOK. roller; this must be done by a thread, to make the work stretch even. Never turn it in at the lacing side, because it would be impossible by any means either to make the work even or pleasant to work, as it would always be loose in the centre, owing to the four plies of material which would consequently be round the edge of the roller when rolled up. In lacing the canvas and cloth over the stretching swords, take hold of the cloth and canvas about eight threads in from the edge. Be careful not to exceed half an inch between each stitch of lacing, as the closer it is laced the more even it makes the work. If the work is done in cross stitch, the threads draw more freely than in tent; but, any way, it is a tedious operation. The cutting off the threads is certainly the quickest way ; but great care is requisite that none of the threads are seen at the edge of the work; to avoid which, unravel and take away all the threads at the side that run the other way of the canvas to those that you wish to draw. Have a sufficient length either to hold in the hand, or, a better way still, take a pair of pliers or pincers, and pull the thread tight with the left hand ; then take a pair of scissors, and cut it quite close up to the stitch; it will then draw in under the stitch. This should be done in the frame after the lacing THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 401 strings have been removed, and the pegs of one of the rollers also removed down a hole, so as to set it a little free. SoRETCHING LEATHER FOR EMBROIDERY.—Stretch a piece of unbleached linen on the frame first ; paste the linen ; then lay the leather on this; and let it stand until quite dry. WorkiInG A SMALL PIECE OF EMBROIDERY ON A LARGE PIECE OF MATERIAL.—If a small piece of embroidery is to be worked on a large piece of satin, or any other material, first stretch a picce of stiff muslin in your frame, then lay on the piece of satin with the design drawn on it, and stitch it evenly all round the design; when embroidered, cut the stiff muslin neatly away round the edge of the embroidery. GRouNDING A PIECE OF WORK IN CROSS stircH.—Begin at the one side of the frame, and work one half of the stitch all along ; then return the other way, and finish the row. You can begin either at top or bottom of the piece of work, provided you gradually do the whole piece in the same way. I always put as much worsted on the wrong side as the right, which is perfectly opposite to the German mode; but I prefer the first mode much. VOL, I, 402 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Grounpine 1n Prrrr-Pornt.—TI invariably begin at the left hand, and work along to the right, at the same time putting as much worsted at the back as in front; thus :—Suppose you wished to have 10 threads of canvas left for a margin round your work, insert your needle up through the space in the canvas, just above the 11 threads from the bottom; draw it through; then pass it down to the back, of course in a slanting direction towards the left hand, through the space just above the 10th thread from the margin at bottom and side. Work the whole row in this way: When this row is finished, commence the next row above, beginning at the left hand as before ; continue working successively every row the same until the whole is finished. GROUNDING ON THE HAND 1N Cross-Stircuh.— Work from the top of the work in a straight line downwards, always finishing each stitch before commencing another. You will observe, when you finish the last crossing of the stitch» the needle must pass 4 threads straight down behind, in order to give you two new threads to work on, as in the first stitch. When this row is finished, commence again from the top. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 403 Guipe in cHoosine CANVAS FOR WORKING Perir-Pornt or Tent-Sriren, with one, two, or three plies Berlin wool, on English canvas of the following numbers ;—the first of which is for those who work tight, the second for those who work rather loose. Nos. 50 and 48, may be worked in one ply German wool. Nos. 30 and 28, may be worked in two plies German wool. Nos. 26 and 24, may be worked in three plies German wool. Coarser than those would not be sufficiently covered. GuweE In cHoosinc CANVAS FOR WORKING Cross-Stircu, in one, two, or three plies Berlin wool, on English canvas of the following numbers ;—the first of which are for those who work tight, the second for those who work rather loose. Nos. 50 and 48, may be worked in one ply German wool. Nos. 32 and 30, may be worked in two plies German wool. Nos. 20 and 26, may be worked in three plies German wool. Coarser than those would not be sufficiently covered. 404 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Worxine or Berun Parrerns.—For a flower-piece, I prefer cross-stitch on fine canvas, and petit-point on coarse canvas. Figures look much better worked in petit-point stitch, as faces appear softer in this stitch, the slanting stitch blends so much better than the square. Some prefer the dress in cross-stitch, and the face in petit-point ; but then the face has still the same objection, that is, of a square stitch, for there must be four petit-point stitches worked in the face for every stitch marked in the pattern, so as to have it on the same scale as the dress. Sometimes the Berlin pattern is painted cross stitch for the dress, and small stitch for the face; then only one stitch is required to be worked, as the face is painted on’a smaller scale of design paper, which looks much more like painting. Much, however, depends in choosing the proper tone of colour for working faces ; as the best of workers may here be defeated by ill-assorted face colours. I have seen many pieces of work completely ruined in consequence. ‘Tapestry stitch has been much worked for some time; as it is a stitch I never did admire, I therefore cannot comment on its merits: to me it has always the appearance of something woven. The stitch is simply two single stitches : each single stitch takes two threads in THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 405 height, and one across the canvas. There are an endless variety of fancy stitches, too numerous and useless to name. The only stitches I recommend for any piece of work of any consequence, is cross or tent stitch. The cut work has a very rich and good effect in working Birds and Animals. Flowers look very well when the leaves are worked in cross or embroidery stitch, which give relief and lightness to the raised flowers. Some prefer the flowers to be cut in the form of the leaf; but I never think they look well, That which I recommend, is merely to cut the work all round the edge a little closer to the canvas than the other part of the work. Birds may be cut out very beautifully, but they require the skilful hand of the most experienced worker to do justice to them in throwing out their various forms. MODE OF WORKING RAISED WORK FROM A BERLIN PATTERN. The canvas may either be silk or not, according to the taste of the worker ; if silk, use the size which suits one ply of wool in cross stitch. Stretch it in the frame as before mentioned. ‘There are several ways of executing the work,—I shall men- tion a few, and leave to choice which is thought preferable. Suppose the pattern you 406 THE LADY $ WORK BOOK. are going to work were flowers; work the green leaves in cross-stitch, and the flowers raised. The green leaves must all be worked first ; then thread as many needles as there are shades in the flower, each with a different shade ; every row in the flower must be worked in its various shades according to the pattern, beginning at the left hand, and proceeding to the right, working each row over a mesh gauging No, 18 in breadth, and No. 11 in heighth. Every row must have a mesh, as they all re- main until the whole flower is worked before withdrawing them. The back of the raised work is gummed all over with dissolved gum-dragon, which must be left until dry ; then withdraw the first mesh, and cut the row with a pair of sharp pointed scissors ; and, as I have before mentioned, it would be well to cut the edges a little down, (I only mean round the edge of the flower, not the edge of the leaves.) The mode of working this stitch, which is exactly the first half of a cross-stitch, is this :—Suppose the first three stitches in the patterns you are going to work were three of the lightest shade, take the needle with the light shade, lay the mesh over the two threads you intend to work on, and work over the mesh as follows :— Insert your needle from the front side of the work through to the back part, (at the THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 407 side of the mesh next to you,) leaving your thread a little higher than the mesh ; then pass the needle down two threads quite straight from that ; draw it up to the front; then pass over the mesh in a slanting direction, and insert your needle to the back again down two threads apart from the first time of inserting your needle to the back, then pass the needle down two threads quite straight from that; draw it up to the front. This concludes two stitches, work another stitch as last described, which finishes the three; cut off the thread a little higher than the mesh. Every shade is worked in the same way. When you have concluded that row with its various shades in succession as they are marked, begin the second row, and work exactly as before, inserting the needle down to the back, in the same hole you drew the needle up to the front, in first row. Every row is worked in this way. If this has been worked as I have described, the stitches in the wrong side will all be straight down the canvas, having two threads visible between each stitch along the canvas. Before withdrawing the meshes after it is gummed, cut all the ends, as they are, of course, irregular in length where you began and ended with each shade; then withdraw each mesh in regular succession, and cut the work, 408 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. by inserting the point of the scissors through the loops made over the mesh. I think this the most simple way of working. Frenen or Paristan Mopvz.—This stitch is worked every row as foregoing receipt, from left hand to right, with this difference,—it is all worked over one thread, haying two threads left between each stitch along the canvas, and one thread be- tween each stitch down the canvas, as will be seen on the wrong side, after having worked as following directions. Lay your mesh along the thread intended to work on, then insert your needle from the front side of the work through to the back part, then pass the needle down a thread quite straight from that, draw it up to the front ; this finishes one stitch; then pass over the mesh, and insert your needle from the front side of the work through to the back part ; two threads apart from the first time of inserting your needle to the back part; then pass the needle down one thread quite straight from that; draw it up to the front; this finishes the second stitch. Every shade is worked in the same way. The second row is worked exactly as the first, leaving one thread of canvas between the rows; and every row is worked the same, having one thread between the rows, and two threads between each stitch, ats bad 3 EE Fee | THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. I prefer this way to any other, as it does not require to be gummed. I have seen some very handsome pictures of figures (after the Old Masters, as large as life) worked in this stitch. Anotuer Movz.—This stitch, which is a sort of cross-stitch, beginning at the left hand and working to the right, differs from the others in being exactly like cross- stitch, with this exception,—after it is worked you pass the thread round the mesh. Mode cf working :—Lay the mesh over the two threads below those you intend working. In commencing a shade, leave a longer piece than the width of mesh, and have it on the side of the mesh next to you, with the mesh on the top of the end; cross over two threads in a slanting direction to the right hand, exactly like a half cross stitch, by inserting the needle from the right side to the back part of work; put up the needle from the back part of work two threads straight down from that, then cross the stitch to the left hand, (in a slanting direction,) two threads across, by inserting the needle from the front part of work down to the back; then insert it from the back up to the front two threads straight down from that ; now pass it quite round the mesh; this finishes one stitch. Second stitch, cross 410 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. over two threads in a slanting direction, exactly like a half cross-stitch, to the right hand, by inserting the needle from the front to the back part of work, then put up the needle from the back part of the work two threads straight down from that ; then cross the stitch to the left hand, (in a slanting direction,) two threads across ; then put up the needle from the back two threads straight down from that; now pass it round the mesh; this finishes second stitch. When a shade is commenced; it must be worked as first stitch. (A Sie Ad 2s vs ee : —_ THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 411 COMMON TATTING EDGING, AS REPRESENTED IN ENGRAVING AT BEGINNING OF BOOK. After threading your tatting needle with the size of cotton you intend to work with, tie a knot on the end; take the knot and put it on the forefinger of the left hand, then so extend the second, third, and fourth fingers, as to form a loop round them, by passing the thread round the back of them and bringing it round to the forefinger again, over the knot; hold them tightly down with the thumb. As the thumb and forefinger are never moved during the forming of the scollop, bring the tatting needle and thread toward you, straight across from the forefinger and thumb, between the second and third fingers; insert the needle from the back of the finger loop up through the centre between the thread you have on the needle and that round the fingers, always observing to have the thread (on the needle) between you and the needle after it is drawn through. Hold the needle and thread tightly extended from the right hand to the left, and the loop round the fingers loose, as the stitch is made with the loop round the fingers, and not with the part of the thread nearest the needle; then withdraw the second finger, so as to allow the loop round the fingers, 412 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. to form round the thread; insert the fingers again, and with the second finger form the stitch, by drawing it up to its place, which is close to the thumb; this finishes one stitch, and 20 more like this form the scollop. Draw the thread attached to the needle tight, so as to pull up the scollop when completed; now commence another scollop. Ifthe Tatting has not been properly worked, this scollop will not draw. All Tatting stitches must be formed with the loop round the fingers. 21 stitches form a pretty scollop with Taylor’s Persian cotton No. 3. I do not think any person who has not seen Tatting done can accomplish it by any description. STAR TATTING, AS REPRESENTED IN ENGRAVING AT BEGINNING OF BOOK. A very pretty trimming may be made by six scollops of Tatting being worked and drawn up quite close to form a star. When you have got enough worked, sew them together length ways. If wished to form a deep trimming for the bottom of a petticoat, another star may be added below between every other star of those already worked, which forms another pretty vandyke trimming. dy ath Ub (1S Mili ent aot 51S Pe ete —— THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. 413 TATTING OPEN STITCH, SCOLLOP BOBBIN TRIMMING, FOR THE EDGING OF PETTICOATS, &C. &C. 3 AS REPRESENTED IN ENGRAVING AT BEGINNING OF BOOK. This is worked with fine bobbin, such as is used for children’s caps. Seven long loops form a pretty scollop. The loop round the fingers is formed as before described in foregoing receipt ; so is the first stitch ; next stitch, throw the thread over the back of the hand, instead of bringing it towards you asin the first stitch, and insert the needle down through the finger loop between the first and second fingers; draw it up through between the two threads over the back of the fingers, and with the second finger form the stitch as before; next stitch as first, only leave it long, so as to form a long loop; then again the stitch over the back of the hand. Repeat the long loop and the one over the hand alternately, until you have the seven loops; then draw up the thread to form the scollop. Plain Tatting may also be done in the same manner as the second stitch here described. 414 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. FRENCH BOBBIN LOOM USED FOR HAIR CHAIN, &c. &e, The First figure in Engraving shows the Holding of the Loom, with the two loops on the points of it; the Second, the Loom with a Piece of Chain Worked, the top of this being an exact representution when the Two Stitches are Worked. Place the broad flat part of the loom between the forefinger and thumb of your left hand ; put the end of the silk through the small hole; hold the silk in your right hand ; east a loop on each of the points, first on the one farthest away from your right hand, then one on the point next your right hand ; then turn the loom quite round with your right hand, and bring the thread above the loop that is on the point now next your right hand; with the forefinger and thumb of the right hand lift the loop that is below the thread (being the loop on the point next your right hand,) quite over the thread and the point of the loom, which makes a stitch and encloses the thread, and leaves it on the point of the loom; again turn the loom quite round with your right hand, and work a stitch as before, which makes two stitches. The whole Chain is done in this way. This receipt is only a help to the memory, as it would almost be impossible to work this without seeing it done. One hank of second sized silk is required for a Chain. A very beautiful Chain, which is worn in two plies round the neck, may be worked with the third size. THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. 415 DIRECTIONS FOR GUIDING THE PROPER SIZES OF SILKS AND MESHES JSED FOR PURSES IN NET WORK, AS REPRESENTED IN THE SIX ENGRAVED DESIGNS FOR NET WORK IN BEADS, AT BEGINNING OF THIS VOLUME, These designs are used for Purses, Reticules, Mittens, &c. &e. If wished for 4 very fine Purse, use extra fine purse silk, a No. 22 mesh, and beads No. 5. For a fashionable sized Purse for a lady, cast on about 120 stitches. If worked in third-sized purse silk, which is the next size coarser, use a No. 20 mesh, and beads No. 7. The coarsest sized mesh that looks well with the third-sized silk, is a No. 18, with beads No. 9 or 10. Wherever beads are used, a treple long darning needle must be taken instead of a netting one, and as fine as will admit the beads to pass over freely—as in working every bead-stitch, the bead is thread on previous to working each stitch. N.B.—The number of stitches here are meant for the long way of the Purse, as I always prefer Netting worked in this way, when the pattern will admit of it. Any of the patterns, as represented in the engravings, for net purses done in beads, looks well with a stripe of open stitch alternately, as ex- plained in 104th Receipt of Volume J. and represented in plate No. 6 of that Volume, headed ‘* Grecian Net.” The leaf pattern, as 107th Receipt, Vol, I. and plate No. 9, looks well. 416 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. REMARKS ON NETTING. All Net Work looks and hangs much better by being net the contrary way to that which it is intended to hang; for instance, for Window Curtains and Purses, they should be worked long ways, the stitches being all cast on at once. If netted other- wise, the stitches all run together. Netting should be damped and stretched out until thoroughly dry; if a small piece of work, such as a Purse, it can be done on the purse stretcher. Make a Srircu in Netting, is to work two stitches in one loop. To Taxe-1n or Drinisu, is to take two stitches on the needle instead of one. Brap Srrrcn.—In working Beads in Netting, you must use a long treple darning needle to net with. Work the stitch thus:—Thread a bead on to the thread you are netting with; bring it up in front of the mesh, and keep it there until you have made the knot; then bring the needle and thread down at the back of the mesh, and pass the point of the needle up through the bead that is on the front of the mesh; draw up the needle and thread through it, which pulls the beads quite up to the THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 417 knot you have just made. All beads in Netting should be worked in this way, otherwise they will move about on the thread. Gold, silver, or coloured beads, have a very good effect worked on the back of dress mittens, Any of the engraved patterns for net work may be arranged for that purpose. For the forming of the mitten, see any of the receipts in Volume I. Nerrine wir Suave Sitx,—I mean those long shaded silks, such as blue, graduat- ing from dark to light, then falling imperceptibly into fawn, from light to dark, or any other colours. You should ascertain how many yards it will take to work one row of what you wish to net ; then thread your netting needle with the quantity required to work the number of rows measured for. When you have worked this needle- ful, again measure the quantity as before, but be careful to thread that end of the silk on to the needle first that was just cut off from the reel, otherwise the shades will not join in properly. Suppose, for instance, that your first needleful ended with blue, of course the last stitch must be blue, and that which is wound last on your second needleful must end in blue, so that the blue part ties on to the last stitch that was net with the first needleful, which 1 before supposed to be blue. vou. I. pd 418 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. REMARKS ON KNITTING. Having so frequently commented on Knitting in the various Receipts, it only remains for me to say, that all Knitting should be worked rather loosely than other- wise, and for the same reason given as to Crochet Work, namely, that it is more elastic, and wears much better. Knitting is much improved by being damped and stretched, when the shape of the work will admit of it; when not, it may be placed under a weight, so as to smooth it. Any of the receipts in either this or the 1st Volume, written for four wires or rounds, may also be worked on two wires. Take, for example, the 49th Receipt of this Volume, and work as follows:—I1st Row, work it in the usual way, as it is written ; 2nd Row, work as it is written, but begin at the right hand of the line, and work to the left ; at the same time you must transpose the terms, from plain or front stitches, to pearl or back stitches, thus: in the 2nd row you would work, B2, O, B3, O, B4, L, B4, 7, B4, 0, B2; 3rd Row, exactly as there written ; 4th Row, transpose the terms in the same way as in the 2nd row. && In teaching any person to knit, they should be instructed, as the more elegant mode, to hold the thread over the forefinger of the /eft hand, and not in the right, as most people do. bb LS eae bs GA yc, Lo THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. REMARKS ON CROCHET, OR TAMBOUR STITCH. All Tambour or Crochet should be worked rather loose than otherwise, as it is apt to cut when tight. Crochet Work depends a vast deal on the size of the hook or needle used, as that forms the size of the stitch; therefore, great care should be taken in having the needle properly gauged, according to the size given in the receipts. In using the gauge,* to ascertain the size, pass the neck part of the hook or needle just above the hook, through any of the front slits of the gauge. Many ladies, in using the gauge, erroneously suppose that the round holes are the test, instead of the slits. Now, suppose a No. 10 hook is mentioned ; try if it goes easily through the slit in front of the No. 10 on the gauge; if it goes in, then try if it will go in to the slit in front of No. 11 on the gauge; if it does not, then this must be a No. 10. * The Gauge used by me, and mentioned in my Work on “ Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work,” is the Standard Wire Gauge, used by all jewellers, wire-workers, &c.—I would recommend every lady who is a knitter or netter to be provided with one. They can be had at the instrument-makers, Iam not aware if the fancy-work shops keep them generally, although it is an article which I sell. They may be had either round or oblong squares ; the round is certainly the neatest looking instrument. 420 THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. Epee stitrca.—This Stitch is worked by drawing a loop through the first loop or stitch on the row or round, then another loop through the one just made. ‘This forms the edge stitch; then work on according to the pattern. If the edge stitch of every row were not worked in this way, you would lose a stitch each row. It is not necessary to work an edge stitch on a round, but only where the work requires to be turned to the wrong side, in order to work round the other way. To CARRY ON A THREAD OR THREADS IN DOUBLE CROCHET stTrITcH.— When a pattern is worked in more colours than one, the colours not required in front must be carried on, so as not to make long loops at the back. Work them thus :—Lay those threads that are not then required, along the forefinger of your left hand ; insert your crochet hook or needle into the stitch in the usual way; let it go below the threads you are carrying on, and draw the thread you are crocheting with down at the back of them, through the loop you have inserted the hook into; then make the finishing loop in the usual way, which is taken over the threads, and draw it through the two loops on the needle. This makes one stitch. THE LADY'S WORK BOOK. 431 NEATEST WAY OF JOINING THE THREAD.—Before the thread you are working with is quite exhausted, lay the end of the thread you wish to join on the forefinger of left hand, the end part towards the point of the finger; the ball will then be towards the other end of the finger. Work about 6 stitches over it, in the way explained for carrying on the threads; now lay the thread you have been working with over the forefinger of left hand; then work with the new thread that has just been worked over, (of course working with the ball part,) over the thread now on the finger, for about 6 stitches; cut off the ends, and continue working with the new thread. Maks a sritcH, LET OUT, oR INcREASE.—This is done by first working the stitch as usual, then again working the same stitch from the back part of the loop. This is to prevent making a hole. Take 1, REDUCE, or piminisH,—Is worked by taking two stitches on to your hook or needle at the same time, and work them off as one stitch. Bean stiton.—When you work in beads, the beads must be all thread on before commencing ; and when a Bead stitch or stitches are mentioned in the receipt or 422 THE LADY’S WORK BOOK. the pattern you are working from, you simply pass a bead down to the last stitch worked, then work your stitch as usual, which fastens in the bead ; but this will be to the wrong side of the work. Beap sTITCH IN THE RIGHT SIDE OF worK.—Work it thus, of course having the beads thread on before :—Bring the thread you are crocheting with to the front, still having it on the finger of your left hand, with the bead on it, keeping it in front; then insert the needle from the back of the stitch you are going to work, and pull the thread through to the back ; now make the finishing loop in the usual way ; by this the bead will be on the right side. (I have only seen one piece of work with the beads worked in the right side.) Almost any piece of Dress or Covering for Furniture may be worked in Crochet, by having a paper pattern cut to the form required, and letting out in the usual way, by casting on stitches where the pattern requires, or diminishing by taking two or more stitches together. agate ry ei. Pee ee #54 7 Bo hago . Say aaae - - 2% aa oe ee Sa OE SRE ES EM ye) SN ad esesbathage* feetee a Mug e er OME TENE Sino MMETSUNSHT et TOSe EME TREES Fo ote NRY PETES age Sane 423 NOTE To ReEcEIrr xx. PAGE 87. A VERY ELEGANT PURSE May be worked in the same stitch as Receipt XX., (for wearing either suspended from the waist, or carried in the hand,) with this difference,—this Purse has three beads of gold and three of steel alternately, instead of one, as in Receipt XX. The length of this Purse is about 14 inches. When finished, sew up about 5 inches of the purse; leave about 43 open, to receive the money ; sew up the re- maining 43 inches ; and draw up this end, to which add a long tassel of steel and gold, about 4 inches long. The other end is flat; sew it together, and add a fringe of steel and gold beads along it, one link of steel and one of gold alternately ; pass the one link through the other three times, in order to twist them together. One ring only is requisite for this purse, as the long tassel is drawn through the waist-band (or cord.) Thread the beads before commencing, 3 steel and 3 gold alternately. T'wo reels of Albert blue twist, two bunches of No. 6 steel beads, and two bunches of gold are required. Use two wires of No. 18. Cast on 102 stitches, and work as before described in Receipt XX. ; only notice, that before you work the O, 7, you must pass three beads up, previous to com- mencing every row that has beads on it. (This is to make the joining of the purse less perceptible.) This must be done during the working of the 5 inches. You do not put on the three first beads while you work the 43 inches for the open part, as there they are not requisite ; the other 4: remaining inches to be worked with them. eeiphiies ajo 2305 2 Se a a ae —— = . 34 ia ee ae y , Ye ee POT