HHUMi A HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF NEW- BRUNS WICK, B.N.A. WITH ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. BY 2Tf)e Meb. ©ijiistopticv atitutaoit, FASTOn OF THE PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, MASCREKN, ST GEORGE’S. THIRD EDITION, GREATLY IMPROVED AND CORRECTED. Ka. ot'roxgiGtis o j$cc.eri\ivii otirois' A Xiyu vfjuy, $$'oard on many a shore; But her healing words of peace are heard Above the cannon’s roar. In this Province, there is an extensive Coal Field, situated between the primary rocks of the county of Charlotte and King’s County, and the Straits of Northumberland. On the Gulf of St Lawrence, only the south and south-east sides of this coal field have yet been explored ; the west, north, and north-east sides still re- main to be examined, and its limits, therefore, in the latter directions, yet remain unknown. This coal field extends in a northerly direction to Bathurst, 150 miles, and to Miramichi, 120 miles, and from the latter place along the coast to Shediac, which may be estimated at seventy miles. Until the north-east side of this vast coal tract is explored, it would be impossible to give an accurate account of its area ; but it may for the present be considered equal to 5000 miles. 1 his tract may perhaps be characte- rized as being the largest coal field ever dis- covered on the globe. To distinguish it from the Westmorland district, and other coal fields ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 25 in the British Provinces, it has been designated “ The Great New-Brunswick Coal Field.” The Province likewise abounds in iron, copper ore, lead ore, rock salt, sand-stone, and lime- stone, &c. An account of the several parishes, includ- ing all the statistics of each, the details of these and other matters, it is hoped, will make this work highly interesting to all classes, both at home and abroad, — but more especially to those who enter fully into the spirit of emigration, and who are desirous of being in possession of that information before they leave their native land, which may insure them to the full ac- complishment of those plans they have in view- on their landing. Possessing the advantages already alluded to, it has long been subject both of surprise and regret, that while the most strenuous efforts have been made to direct the stream of emigra- tion to the Canadas, and other colonies in this hemisphere, the inhabitants of the Mother Country have been left in ignorance of the ca- pabilities of New-Brunswick, and that even when the emigrant has reached her shores, he has been permitted to depart, without exertion being made to render him acquainted with the natural advantages of the country, or to induce tzt 26 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL him to remain, and enrich it by his industry and wealth. This Province is bounded on the west, by the frontier, St Croix, and the American State of Main ; on the north by the Canadies ; on the east by the Gulf of St Lawrence, and on the south by the Bay of F undy, and the isthmus at the head of it, connecting Nova Scotia with New-Brunswick. Until the period of Ameri- can independence, the latter territory formed part of the former Province, being known by the name of the county of Sunbury, but in 1783, it was erected into a separate Province under its present name. In superficial extent, it com- prehends about 25,000 square miles of diversi- fied and well-watered country. Its coast is in- dented with numerous bays and harbours. Its soil is fertile ; its climate resembles that of Lower Canada, and it is altogether exempt from the bilious intermittent fever, commonly called fever and ague, which is generally in Upper Canada. The productions of the forests, mines, and fisheries, are its chief articles of export. I he Province in 1840, contained twelve counties, ninety-five parishes, 20,514 inhabit- ed houses, 24,368 families, 156,162 persons, 435,861 acres of cleared land, 18,286 horses, ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 27 92,260 neat cattle, 141,053 sheep, and 71,915 swine. The sea-coast of the Province, like that of Nova Scotia, presents a rugged appearance ; and the scenery around St John, possesses no- thing indicative of the fertile regions to which it leads. This city was first inhabited in a.d. 1783, by a band of patriots, who, at the close of the American revolutionary war, abandoned their homes, their friends, and property in the revolted colonies, with a large portion of civi- lized life, that they might preserve unsullied their loyalty to the British Sovereignty, and breathe the pure air of freedom under the pa- ternal protection of the monarch whom they revered, and guarded by the meteor flag of England, which, for a “ thousand years, has braved the battle and the breeze.” The spot where the flourishing city stands, was, fifty- eight years ago, a mere wilderness, and strange as it may appear, the journey from the Mar- ket-slip to the Jail-hill, which is not a quar- ter of a mile, would occupy, at the above pe- riod, half a-day, but now only five minutes. Then no previous vestiges of the labours of ci- vilized man were presented to view to diversify the gloomy- prospect. The obstacles that were to be met at every step, would have caused C7 28 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL men less imbued with the spirit of loyalty, to turn with disgust from the unpropitious scene, and retrace their steps to the land of plenty which they had left behind. But no hardships, however great — no privations, however severe, — no difficulties, however appalling, were suffi- cient to deter from their purpose, the lion- hearted founders of the city — without a roof to shelter their defenceless heads, surrounded by a pathless forest, and frowned upon by the rugged rocks, in a country then unfavourable (because unprepared) for the operations of the plough, and subject to a long and rigorous win- ter. Yet, the prospect of all these accumulated difficulties and privations were unable to im- pair their loyalty, or swerve them from the path of duty. But how different is that scene at the present day ! The city has a population of 30,000 souls, which the enterprise and acti- vity of the inhabitants, and the liberality of the capitalists, are doing everything to increase. St John is incorporated, and the city compre- hends both sides of the harbour, four wards being in St John, and two in Carlton, oppo- site ; each represented by an alderman and as- sistant alderman ; the mayor is appointed by the executive. Among the new edifices is a building for an exchange, a reading-room, a ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 29 police office, and a market — the lowest part of the building is occupied as a market, the rest as above stated. The building is highly credit- able to the town. The St John Commercial Bank, a new and beautiful building, construct- ed of the Shelburn stone, is the best and hand- somest building in the city. The front is very beautiful. The St John Mechanic’s Institute, (incorpo- rated by Act of the General Assembly) erected a building, and devoted the same to the promo- tion of Science and the Arts, and the diffusion of useful knowledge. The corner-stone was laid on the 27th day of May, in the third year of the reign of Her Most Gracious Majesty, Queen Victoria, by his Excellency Major-Ge- neral Sir John Harvey, K.C.B., and K.C.H., Lieutenant-Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Province of New-Brunswick, &c. 1840. T he Institute was established in December 1838, and the first President was Beverly Ro- binson, Esq. A new Custom-House has commenced in Prince William Street. The plan of the archi- tect, and owner of the building, Mr John Wal- ker, gives 200 feet front on the street ; and it will be built to resemble the front of Carlton- House in London. The building will be occu- B J 30 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL pied as a custom-house, bonded ware-house, and treasury office. There is also an extensive block of brick buildings now erecting south of the Exchange Building. Among the private residences, I would notice particularly the man- sion-house of the Hon. Judge Chipman, which has a very imposing site on the rise of land over- looking Prince William Street. The streets of St John are laid out wide, and at right angles. Advantage has been taken of the re- building of the town, to widen and lay-out new streets, in most of which are very excellent buildings. The place wears an air of bustle and activity, which gives everything a cheer- ful aspect. Ship-building appears to be a lead- ing branch of the business of St John, and the towns adjacent. Some of the best ships in the world are built in this port, loaded w r ith timber, and sent to different ports of England, Ireland, and Scotland, and the West Indies. The city contains several places of worship : — two Epis- copal, two Presbyterian, tw^o Wesleyan-Metho- dist, two Baptist, and one Catholic churche. The revenues of the city, for the year 1840, were £88,6/1, 4s. 6d, The Commercial Bank of New-Brunswick (in St John) incorporated by royal charter— capital £150,000, with power to increase to £300,000; President , Lewis ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 31 Burns, Esq. ; Bank of New-Brunswick, in St John — capital £100,000 ; President, Thomas Leavitt, Esq. Inhabited houses, north and south, 1418; families, 2652; individuals of both sexes in St. John, north, 9516 ; south, 9765; acres of cleared land, 1071. The bar- racks are in a delightful position, overlooking the harbour. The spring-tides at St John rise from twenty- four to twenty-eight feet ; the body of the river is about seventeen feet above low water-mark. The ordinary tide of the harbour rises twenty- six feet, while above the Falls it only rises about eighteen inches ; therefore the height of the Falls might be estimated at twenty-four and a-half feet. But this estimate will not be re- ceived as correct, when it is considered, that the entrance of the river, at the Falls, is too narrow to allow the sea to flow in freely; and, therefore, there is a fall inwards at high- water and a fall outwards at low-water, and the time of passing for vessels is fixed at three quarters of an hour each tide, and when the sea and river have assumed the same level, the Fall outwards we have estimated at twenty feet, and at high tides, the Fall inwards at high- water is fifteen feet, making the whole height of this double Fall, thirty-five feet. ■ 32 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL The accumulated waters of this extensive and deep river, with all its lakes and tributary branches, is here dashed through a narrow gorge, and over a rudely inclined-plane into the sea. Interrupted by small islands above, and compelled to pass over huge masses of rocks obstructing the narrow passage, the river foam- ing and spouting with tremendous fury, as- sumes, at making its exit, a most tragical cha- racter, threatening with instant death any who may venture upon its troubled bosom ; but on the flood-tide, the scene is changed — the ocean spreads its mantle over the thundering cata- ract, and flowing inwards through the narrow chasm, stills the noisy rapid — the tide-lock of the Falls is shut, and apparently to oblige the inhabitants, allows them to pass in safety even with large ships. Perhaps there is not a river in America of the same extent, which has so narrow an out- let as the St John. From the Falls to the Grand Bay, a distance of four miles, this ma- jestic stream passes through a tortuous channel, at many places not more than 250 feet wide, while, in the interior of the country, it will average from one to three miles in breadth. The rocky shores of its out-let have not been worn down and scooped out as is common on ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 33 the shores of all rivers, giving exit to immense quantities of ice ; on the other hand, they ap- pear to have been separated from each other at a period comparatively recent, and the gorge through which the stream now passes, appears like a deep fissure, opened by some sudden movement in the earth. But we defer enter- ing widely upon the interesting facts connected with this noble river, until it has been explored through its whole extent. The city suffered much by fires in January 1837 ; the second in August 1839 ; and the third in March 1841. That on 14th January 1837, took place on Saturday night. The fire commenced on Peter’s Wharf, about nine o’clock in the evening, by which, at least, one-third of the commercial part of the city became a heap of smouldering ashes. The total amount of loss sustained was estimated at £250,000 ; the com- pass of the fire, embracing two sides of Prince William Street, a front in Market Square, the east and west sides of St John or Water Street, the South Market Wharf, east and west sides of Ward Street, north and south sides of Peter’s Wharf, Johnson’s Wharf, Church Street, and Prince’s Street. The number of buildings publicly noticed to have been destroyed was 108, tenanted by 170 different interests; be- Z) 34 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL sides an extensive range of wooden stores, oc- cupied as ware-rooms for heavy goods. The reflection of the fire was seen at and above Fredericton, a distance of ninety miles. The falling of burning paper, and other materials, in flames, were noticed nine miles from the city, and so alarming was the scene from this circumstance, that at one time fears were se- riously entertained that the greater part of the city would be destroyed. The second fire was on Saturday evening, about nine o’clock, Au- gust 1839, (the same day and hour of the week as the great fire in 1837.) The conflagration continued extending with unabated fury till nearly day-light, on Sunday morning, sweeping away in its course every building in Nelson and Dock Streets, &c. It is not at present known the full amount of loss from this awful conflag- ration. A far greater number of inhabited houses have been destroyed than by the great fire of 1837 ; and as they were mostly occupied by several families, it is calculated that nearly 3000 persons have been rendered houseless, — nearly all of them being of the working classes. The total amount of property destroyed, includ- ing buildings, merchandise, and household ef- fects, it is thought cannot fall far short of £200,000, but the sum at this time can only be ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 35 conjectured. The burnt district of 1837, being situated to the southward of the Market- Slip, the fire did not extend to that portion of the city. The third distressing fire broke out about one o’clock on Wednesday morning, 17th March 1840. The alarm bell aroused the citizens from their mid-night slumbers, and the lurid flame which was at the hour discernible, di- rected them to the fatal spot. Nearly all the buildings destroyed were insured, as were also some of the merchants’ stock. Mr James Mal- colm was insured to the amount of £2000. The different engine and fire companies of the city, assisted by the engines from Portland and Carlton, exerted themselves with praise-worthy alacrity. To record the loss of life accompany- ing this sad calamity, is the most painful part to relate. Mr Matthew Holdsworth went to ex- amine the scuttle on the roof, and unfortu- nately stepped into the hatchway, and fell to the ground-floor, a distance of thirty feet he left a wife and two children. The painful cir- cumstances attending this conflagration, have cast a gloom over the community which has been rarely, if ever witnessed. Had it not been for the pipes and fire-plugs of the St John Water Company, this fire, disastrous as it has 36 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL been, would have extended yet farther, and laid a large and valuable business portion of the city once more in ruins. And the proprietors of that Company, who have year after year, struggled on against difficulties of no ordinary character, deserve the highest praise the city can bestow upon them. In defiance of the nu- merous obstacles which have almost wilfully been placed in their path, they have succeeded in furnishing the city with an abundant supply of water, but for which, at this time, the greater part of the inhabitants of St John would have had to mourn over further loss of life, and the prostration of the commerce and prosperity of the city for a very long time. How impres- sively should it rivet on the attention of all, the important admonition, — “ Be ye also ready, for in such an hour as ye think not, the Son of Man cometh.” By how uncertain a tenor do we hold life, property, and every earthly good! nd yet, like every similar occurrence, it is to be feared that it will attract attention and ob- servation for a little while, and then will be forgotten. St rTn l “ “ !, ns connected wit! fonted “n't 8 »ot is repre- ted “ S C0Un ' !,1, • 14 * the great ship- ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 37 building quarter of St John, and contains seve- ral foundries and manufactories. It presents, at all times, a scene of commercial bustle and mechanical labour. In Portland there are three places of worship. It contains 445 inhabited houses, and 1139 families, — total inhabitants, 6207. F rom Portland, a suspension bridge was proposed to connect its heights with the Carl- ton shore, and a company, with a capital of £20,000, was formed for the purpose. A lofty wooden erection was placed at either end from which to suspend the chain bridge. From a defect in the manufactory, the latter after be- ing some days in position, and crossed by seve- ral foot passengers, fell early one morning, with a number of workmen who were completing the fastenings. Nothing now remains but the lofty wooden bridges alluded to. The company, after sinking £5000, and the capital above men- tioned, abandoned all intention of proceeding any further in the work. The total length of the bridge was to have been 1400 feet, of which the chain part was to constitute 450. Carlton is a village opposite the city of St John. The locality of the town is much in its favour. The grounds of Carlton are highly ro- mantic ; to take a walk up the hill leading to 37 38 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL the Fort, would amply repay the traveller for liis trouble, by the handsome prospect which will open to his view on all sides. Close by the F ort, the ground is quite commanding ; you have a full view of the harbour, and as far out into the Bay as the eye can reach. To the east, the city presents itself, with its houses, appearing like so many blocks of wood piled one on top of another in strange disorder ; to the left, Portland, with its numerous ship-yards, appear ; also the ruins of that luckless piece of enterprise — “ the bridge,” which seem to be left standing by its projectors in token of the discomfiture and chagrin which covered them when it fell. Indeed, Carlton is a pleasant place ; notwithstanding the barrenness of its soil, it is favoured by Providence, in more ways than one, and the day is not far distant wdicn Carlton will be to St John, w T hat Brooklyn now is to New- York. The principal business done, is in the ship, deal, and timber yards, while a number of new houses is being erected, which keeps car- penters busily employed. The fisheries, too, are a lucrative source of profit to the place, and brick-making is carried on rather exten- sively ; besides, there are several saw and grist-mills running constantly. There is an ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 39 Episcopal Church, and a Dissenting Meeting- house. There is a small steam-boat which plies between the city and this place, every quarter of an hour, remaining five minutes on either side. The arrangements with reference to this boat, are equal to any I have met with in the British Provinces. The docks on both sides of the river are commodious and safe. Persons desirous of taking the St. Andrew coach, would do well to cross over to Carlton on the preced- ing evening, and then gain the coach on the fol- lowing morning. A short distance from the shore, and nigh to Carlton, a beautiful marble has been discovered. The rock is highly crystalized ; the marble is of a light pink co- lour, clouded and shaded with veins of light green chloxite and serpentine, resembling very nearly, the “ verde antico ” of the Italians. At the surface, the rocks have been fractured by the frost ; blocks of large size may be pro- cured by opening the quarry to the depth of a few feet. There is in Carlton 153 inhabited houses, occupied by 260 families. Acres of cleared land, ninety. It is forty-five miles from St George, sixty-five from St Andrews, and about eighty-six from St Stephens, which is on the lines. C7 40 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL Lancaster is the next place the traveller passes through to St Andrews. A large hill on the east side of the Musquash, and about a mile from the village of Ivanhoe, is composed of conglomerate, which has been intensely heated by its proximity to an overlaying mass of trap- lime. Stone appears on the opposite side of the river. A tract of land was purchased by some Americans for the purpose of quarrying marble from it. Like many other speculations of the kind, it proceeded no farther ; notwith- standing good marble might be procured at the spot. The village of Ivanhoe belongs to the Lancaster Mill Company, who have here a very superior and powerful set of mills for the ma- nufacture of all kinds of lumber, and an incal- culable amount of unemployed water-power. The mills are 200 feet in length, by sixty in breadth. The Company own a tract of land, containing upwards of 50,000 acres in connexion with these mills, and from which they procure supplies of excellent timber. In the parish of Lancaster, there is a neat church, but very sel- dom is divine worship performed therein. There are 219 inhabited houses, 252 families, and 4446 acres of cleared land. From this place to St George, there is little worth noticing, as it is ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 41 nothing more than a dense wood, the whole dis- tance of thirty miles, except about a dozen houses on the road side, occupied by individuals from Ireland. 42 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL CHAPTER II. S* George's, its Falls, Mills — Mascreen, Le Tang, Le Tete, Settlements, Churches, Inhabited Houses, Families, Per- sons, and Acres of Cleared Land — Pennfield, Inhabited Houses, Families, and Acres of Cleared Land — Winter Campaigns of the Lumber Men, &c St Patrick’s, its Si- tuation, Inhabited Houses, Families, and Acres of Cleared Land— St Andrew’s, its Locality, Soil, Churches, Inhabit- ed Houses, Families, Acres of Cleared Land— St David’s, St James’, St Stephen’s with their Situation, Inhabitants, Families, Acres of Cleared Land, &c. — the Islands in the Passamaquoddy Bay, their Length, Breadth, Fisheries, Timber, Soil, Inhabitants, Acres of Cleared Land, &c. St George, or, as it is called by many, Maga- gu ad a vie, is situated to the eastward of St Andrew’s, with St Patrick’s interposed. Its two principal settlements are placed, the one at the Upper, and the other at the Lower Falls of the Magaguadavic, a fine stream flowing through the county and parish, which issues from a series of fine large lakes of the same name, about twenty miles from the sea. The upper and smaller settlement is seven miles dis- tant from the lower, which again is situated ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 43 at the head of the tide, four miles above the junction of the river Maser een. Few places in the Province afford a more singular and beautiful spectacle than the Maga- guadavic Falls. The river, after descending from the mountains northward, passes through a level and wide plain of intervale, and when it reaches the village, is about 100 feet above the bed of the river below ; and the main Fail of the water descends by five successive steps, in the distance of 500 yards, through a chasm averaging about 35 feet wide, and 100 feet deep. Through this narrow gorge, the whole contents of the river is poured out with a fury that defies description. The industry and in- genuity of man have considerably modified the appearance of this remarkable spot. It still, however, remains a most extraordinary hydrau- lic spectacle, and affords a power for turning machinery beyond computation. Having swept slowly along the valley above, the water is ac- cumulated at the bridge over the top of the Falls, it is then thrown by its own weight into the deep and narrow opening below, where, spouting from cliff to cliff, and twisting its foaming column to correspond with the rude windings of the passage, it falls in a torrent of froth into the tide below, or passing beneath ■ 44 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL tlie mills, its fury seems abated as it mingles with the dense spray floating above. There are six saw-mills huddled together at this spot, and they appear like eagles’ nests clinging to the rocks on each side. A considerable sum of money has been expended in their erection, and they are now in full operation. The deep cavi- ties in the rocks are overhung with the alder and creeping evergreens, which seem to be placed there for the purpose of decorating one of Nature’s wild performances. The low roofs of the mills are strongly contrasted with the massive rocks they occupy, and where they hold a precarious situation. The shelving piles of deals seem to mock the violence of the boiling pool beneath. Such is the power of habit — the sawyer, careless of danger, crosses the plank across the gorge, and ventures where his life depends upon an inch of space. Of this I have frequently been an eye-witness, (my house be- ing near the Falls.) These Falls, if the sce- nery in its neighbourhood possessed no other charm, would amply repay the admirer of na- ture for any expence or inconvenience he might incur in visiting them, and in England, this vil- lage would be a place of annual and crowded resort. There are three places of Divine wor- ship at the village, one at the Upper Falls, and t ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 45 one in the Maser een settlement. The parish contains, including the Le Tang, Le Tete, and Mascreen settlements, 363 inhabited houses ; 380 families, and persons, 2422 ; and acres of cleared land, 4097. About three miles up the river, there is a settlement, chiefly agricultural, named Mas- creen, and consisting principally of Scottish Highlanders from Perth, Sutherland, and Caitli- ness-shires, and their ramifications. It is si- tuated at, and near the mouth of the river, stretching for several miles along the south side of the Bay, and terminating one of its inlets, called Le Tete Passage. In this settlement, there has been a neat church erected ; in June 1839, it remained in a very unfinished state, only being rough boarded. At this time, the inhabitants were unexpectedly visited by the Rev. Christopher W. Atkinson, Missionary from King’s County, twenty-seven miles from the city of St John. Inasmuch as this people had not been favoured with more than six ser- mons during the last year, they gladly engaged Mr A. for one year, at the end of which period, the whole of the people unanimously came for- ward, and not only chose, but appointed Mr C. Atkinson to be their pastor, with a promise of c 46 ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. £100, per annum. The engagement with Mr A. is as follows : — We, the undersigned General Committee of the Presby- terian Church in this place, being destitute of a regular minister, have, in consideration of the Rev. Christopher At- kinson, giving (during the three years he has been in this Province, and more particularly the last year in which ha has officiated as our minister,) the undeniable proofs of his sincerity, zeal, and ability, in the work of the ministry, chosen and appointed the said Mr Atkinson to be the pastor of the above church, with the entire approbation of the con- gregation, and that Mr A. is henceforth to receive for his ministerial labours in this parish, the sum of £100, per annum; and we trust he will continue to have the respect and love of his people, which he has already obtained, and that his valuable labours may more than ever be appreciated by those who may henceforth have the pleasure of sitting under his ministry. Signed, June, a. d. 1840, and the third of the reign of Her Most Gracious Majesty, Queen Victoria. George Mackenzie, Esq. Peter M‘Diarmid, Esq. Hugh M‘Leod, Senr. Donald McKenzie. Archibald M‘ Vicars. George M‘ Vicars. Thomas Lailand. Maser een, St George, N. B. The above appeared in the “ St John Cou- rier and Christian Reporter,” in June. a.d. 1840. After Mr A. was appointed to this church, O ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 49 he used every means to have it completed. In May and October 1840, he collected upwards of £20 in the city of St John, and £35 in Halifax, Nova Scotia, both of which sums have been paid into the hands of the Committee al- ready mentioned, and which also appeared in St John papers to that effect. The church still remains in an unfinished state. On Mr Atkinson leaving his pastoral charge in 1841, he received the following from the elders and managers of his church, and which appeared in the city papers, before Mr A. left the Province : — To all whom this doth or may concern, W e, the under- signed General Committee of the Presbyterian Church in this place, (Mascreen) do hereby declare, that the Rev. Christopher Atkinson, A. M., has been our pastor since the 16th of June 1839, during which period he has supported an unblemished character, and has conducted himself in every respect becoming a faithful and indefatigable minister of the gospel ; and the only reason for Mr Atkinson leaviug us, is, because there are so few in this part to support the minis- try ; and we humbly pray, that Divine Providence will di- rect him to that sphere of labour in which he will be recom- pensed for his valuable labours. Signed by the General Committee, in behalf of the Con- gregation, &c. Peter M £ Diarmid, Esq. Hugh M £ Leod, Senr. Archd. M £ Vicars. Geo. M £ Vicars. Thos. Lailand. Mascreen , St George , N. B. } 2 6th April 1841. J f 50 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL From my knowledge of the Rev. Mr Atkinson, I have reason to believe the foregoing statement to be correct. Samuel Thomson, A.M. Rector of St George. In connexion with this place, is a small settle- ment called Le Tang, which is inhabited by a few Scots families, who left their country about twenty years back, (viz. Argyleshire.) Le Tete, with the above settlements, are in the parish of St George. Pennfield is the next parish I shall notice. This place is situated to the eastward of St George, and obtained its name from a number of families who emigrated from the United States, and who belonged to the Society of Friends. Its soil is excellent, and its coast is indented by Le Tang and Beaver Harbours At this place I preached every other Sabbath for a considerable time, it being only six miles from St George. During my visits to this parish, I was kindly entertained by Joseph Knight, Esq. J.P., who always took great care that not only myself, but my horse should not want. There is m this parish 168 inhabited houses, and 170 families, with 2235 acres of cleared land. The male population of St George, St Stephen’s, St James’, St David’s, St Patrick’s, and Penn- ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 51 field, go in the winter into the woods for the purpose of lumbering, without which many would not be able to raise their numerous fa- milies. The plan of these winter campaigns is as follows : — An enterprising farmer enters in- to an engagement with a timber merchant, whereby the person with whom the farmer makes his engagement, furnishes him and his gang or gangs, of twelve or more men each, with provisions and other necessaries, taking for the same the timber and saw logs of the farmer, and in spring pays him the balance due for whatever quantity of timber he has furnish- ed bim with. During their stay in the forest of spruce and pine, the men raise for them- selves small huts with boughs and trunks of trees, and cover them with spruce bark, one for the oxen, one for sleeping in, and a third for cooking. The two latter are divided by a stout plank bench running length ways from end to end ; they overspread the whole nearly two feet thick, with pliant and ever-green twigs of the hemlock, and by a very large fire, defy the uttermost efforts of the sternest North Ameri- can winter, and the wild beasts . which, by chance, may surround them. Having erected their domicile, the sound of the axe daily reverberates through the dense wood. How O' 52 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL bow the sturdy maple, spruce, &c. beneath the stroke ! The oxen haul the timber as soon as it is cut down, on the slippery surface of the beaten snow, to the nearest brook, one of the feeders of the nearest river, where it is yarded on the ice until the grand break-up of the ice, which is about the beginning of April, in which month— “ Tlle winter 's nearly gone— tlie earth has lost Her snow-white robes, and now no more her frost, Candles the grass, or casts an icy cream Upon the silver lake, or crystal stream.” ™ ^ en ^ ie vast body of snow that overspreads the country, swells the various streams into impetuous torrents, carrying the ponderous pro- duce of these romantic winter expeditions down into the main rivers, I have seen rafts, in pro- ceeding from Fredericton, &c. of from 12,000 to 18,000 tons of timber ; and I have known the Maguagadavie (at which village I resided two years) covered with a floating bridge which reached a considerable distance, and which was bending its course to the mouth of the Mas- creen river, at which place there were several ships to receive it. St. Patrick’s.— The first settlers of this place were soldiers from some Scottish High- ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 53 land Regiments, disbanded after the close of the American revolutionary war. It is more rocky and hilly than the other parishes, but the soil in most places is good, and in the upper part of the parish inferior to none in the coun- try. It is intersected by the Digdcguash and Moannexo streams. There arc 294 inhabited houses, and 303 families, with 5206 acres of cleared land. There is a Presbyterian and W esleyan-Methodist Church in the parish. The local situation of St. Andrew’s, as a frontier town, bordering on the United States, renders its population of a more fluctuating cha- racter. The data from which calculations alone can be made on this point being thus vacillat- ing, the estimates themselves, from one pe- riod to another, must, in a corresponding de- gree, partake of the uncertainty. It is calcu- lated the population of the town has decreased at least one-fourth since 1830, from a combina- tion of causes, and one circumstance which has of late years operated as a check to the prospe- rity of the town, and led to the dispersion of many families, is the number of rivers in its neighbourhood, viewed in connexion with a change of system which has taken place in the shipment of their produce. On these rivers, 54 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL an extensive trade in the staple commodity of the colony is pursued. Numerous saw-mills have been erected on them, and many hundred thousands of tons of timber are every year floated down them. This produce is eventually carried to the West Indies, in the shape of boards and shingles, and to several parts of England, Ireland, and Scotland. It will be ob- vious, that the whole of this trade would centre in St Andrew’s, were its position like that of St John, at the embouchurre of a large river, and the only large one in the whole country empty- ing itself into the sea. Instead of this, St An- drew’s is placed on a bay about twenty miles long, and nearly half as much broad, and into this spacious bay three rivers, St Croix or Scoodiac, at one end, the Maguagadavic, at the other, and the Digdeguash in the middle, besides smaller streams, disembogue their waters. The coun- try portion of St Andrew’s parish is in the course of gradual, but accelerating occupation, by industrious emigrants and their offspring. The soil in the neighbourhood of St An- drew s is very fertile. Wherever it has been derived from, the decomposition of sand-stone, the beds of clay and gravel, are less productive, and would be much improved by the application of marl or lime. ACCOUNT OE NEW-BRUNSWICK. 55 Inhabited houses, 509 ; families, 617 ; acres of cleared land, 5309. There is one Episcopal Church, one Presbyterian, and one Wesleyan Church ; each have a minister ; as well as a Roman Catholic Chapel. St David’s is the next parish, which is an excellent farming district, and contains 171 in- habited houses, 175 families, and 4886 acres of cleared land. St James’ is the next parish. This is alto- gether an inland parish, and the only one in the county that is not nigh the salt water, touch- ing St Stephen’s on one side, and St David’s on the other. It stretches northward into the interior, until it joins the county of York. I rode through this as well as those annexed to it in June 1839. Inhabited houses in this pa- rish, 179 ; families, 181 ; and 4499 acres of cleared land. St Stephen’s is the next place that is wor- thy of our notice. It lies by the road twenty- five miles from St Andrew’s, and is a very thriving parish. It touches on the St Croix on its left bank, at the head of the ship navigation, and being on its western boarder skirted by the 56 O' HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL same bounding river; this parish combines within itself, the pursuits of agriculture, lum- bering, and commerce. St Stephen’s possesses a mineral spring of no ordinary medical powers. It is near the church ; a small stream issues from the earth, and contributes to the supplj of a brook, crossing the street. The water is very clear— has a weak fetid smell, and un- pleasant taste when first taken into the mouth. The following analysis was repeated three times with nearly the same results — yet it may not be correct : — Sulphurated hydrogen, . . 4. 5 cub. in. Sulphate of Soda, ... 5. 4 grains. Lime > 2. 5 Muriate of Soda, ... 6. 0 Oxide of Iron, .... 0. 4 The sulphurated hydrogen reddens the infusion of bitmus, and precipitates the nitrate of silver black. The sulphate of lime was detected by evaporating a pint of the water down to four ounce, a precipitate of the sulphate of lime formed, which was soluble in 400 parts of water ; and the solution afforded a precipitate with oxalic acid, carbonate magnesia and alco- hol. The aperient effects of this spring are ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 57 very clear, and they evidently arise from the sulphate, and muriate of soda contained in ater. From the above, it therefore appears that it is not inferior in its medicinal powers to many of those in England and France, — admitting that the good effects of watering-places are in part produced by a change of air, amusement, and scenery. St. Stephen’s is pleasantly si- tuated, with a fine surrounding country. There is also another mineral spring at Oak-Bay, its properties appear to be similar to the above. Mill town, about three miles towards the United States, is in the same parish. In the former place there is an Episcopal, and a Wesleyan Church, at Mill-Town, so called on account of the srreat number of saw-mills. There is a W cs- leyan and Catholic Church at each place. There is a toll-bridge which takes over to the State of Maine. St Stephen’s is opposite to Calais, in the above-mentioned State. Inhabited houses, 495 ; families, 579 ; acres of cleared land, 4225. Campo-Bello, although an island in the Passamaij[uoddy-Bay, is in this county (Char- lotte.) It is two miles long, and about two in breadth. Its longest diameter is from north to south, and whether considered on account of u 58 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL its fine harbours, fisheries, or timber, is ex- tremely valuable. The whole of the eastern shore is bold and lofty ; frightful, needle-shaped cliffs, and shelv- ing masses of slate descend into the sea so per- pendicularly, that, in foggy weather, vessels might be thrown by the waves against the cliffs, before any danger could be apprehended. In- stead of the overhanging precipice, the west side of Campo-Bello has a gentle slop towards the shore, where the inhabitants have made considerable progress in agriculture. Inhabit- ed houses, 111 ; families, 132; acres of cleared land, 1000. Friar’s-Head is a considerable cliff, on the south side of the harbour, at Welshpool. West Quaddy light, on the American shore, stands on a low cliff. Between Quaddy and this is- land, the tides run with great rapidity ; and as the channel, at low tide, has no more than two feet of water, and contains a number of dange- rous rocks, the navigation is almost impracti- cable, except at high-water. This island is in part owned by Captain Owen, R.N., who re- sides at Welshpool. It contains 111 inhabited houses, 132 families, and there is 1000 acres of cleared land. It is about sixteen miles from St Andrew’s, and eight miles from Dear Is- ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 59 land. This island is stretched across the Bay of St Andrew’s, in a north-east and south-west direction. The Scoodic empties between the south-west part of the island, and the Ameri- can shore, while the waters of the Digdeguasli and Magaguadavic are discharged into the sea, through two openings between its north-east point, and the mainland of New-Brunswick. The largest of these passages is called “ Big Le Tete,” and the lesser “ Little Le Tete,” The island obstructs the ready exit of the wa- ters from the rivers, and the tide rushes through these passages with great rapidity, occasioning eddies which frequently perplex the best pilots. It is about twelve miles long, and upwards of three broad. I preached two sermons on the island, 24th April 1840. The south side of the island presents a chain of low hills, com- posed of trap-rock and broken slate. These hills are scattered over an inclined-plane, ex- tending to the shore, which is singularly indent- ed. and occasionally occupied by beds of sand and gravel. Sometimes projecting masses of rock extend into the sea, affording fine harbours for boats and other small craft. This side of the island is also sheltered by a great number of small islands, scattered along the shore. Many of the hills are naked, others, and the J 60 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL valleys, are covered with a light growth of birch and spruce. Many are the inducements offered for the inhabitants to cultivate the soil, and a number of fine farms have been cleared, but as fishing is considered to be the most pro- fitable employment, they have been much ne- glected. The next is Indian Island, about seven miles frjm the latter. It was with great difficulty that I could reach this place. The sea runs very heavy between here and the Wolves — six islands so called, which are of considerable mag- nitude, and are well known to the mariner for having been the scene of many shipwrecks. They are situated very unfavourably for the navigation of the coast. Indian Island is about a mile or so long, and three quarters of a mile broad. I landed on the south side, about two o’clock on Saturday, the 25th April 1840. At the request of the inhabitants, I preached at three o’clock and seven. This island is includ- ed with that of Deer-Island, and several other small islands. Indian Island is about one mile from Moose-Island, on the American side, on which there is a beautiful town called Eastport, in which I have several times preached, and re- ceived great kindness from the people. This island is about six miles broad, and is in the t ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 61 county of Washington, and the state of Maine. It is impossible to conceive a more interesting sight than is presented in this Bay during the summer season. It is similar to the scene pre- sented on the northern coast of Scotland, in the months of July and August, which I had the pleasure of viewing in 1826, between Stronsay and Itonaldshay Island. Boats and vessels be- calmed and carried away by the tide, are at one instant hidden by the blackened rock, or the green foliage of some small island. At an- other, they glide from behind the curtain, and appear struggling with the overwhelming cur- rent. Frequently several hundreds of boats, huddled together, and practising a deadly de- ception on the haddock and cod, from a signal given by the tide, draw up their anchors, and hasten to the shore. The silence of evening is broken by the sound of the Indian’s gun, le- velled with fatal aim at the rising porpoise. The hollow sound of the “ loon’s” note is dis- cordant with the scream of the gull. Here the glassy surface of the water is broken by a shoal of herring ; yonder the spouting grampus is blowing up the spray in preparation for an- other dive. Perched on the rock, and armed with a pin-hook, baited with a shrimp, the fisherman’s boy can fill a large bag with lier- J> rj 62 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL rings, sooner than a dozen of scientific anglers could replenish it with trout during a whoie season. The sea is alive with fish — its surface with human beings, and the air with feathered tribes. The next island worthy of notice is Grand Manan, which is a large and beautiful island, situated about twelve miles south from Campo- Bello and West Quaddy-Head, and sixteen miles from the American shore. It is twenty- four miles long, and about five miles in breadth, its longest diameter being from north-east to south-west. The north-west side of the island lies nearly upon a straight line, notwithstand- ing several high headlands that advance into the sea. It is inhabited on this side, which presents a level front of overhanging cliffs and lofty mural precipices of majestic grandeur and beauty. Between the mainland and the island, there is a very powerful current, both on the flood and ebb tide. When the wind is opposed to the currents, a heavy sea is soon produced, which, by its violence, is constantly undermin- ing the rocks, and hastening their downfall. Deep caverns are worn out of the solid base of the lofty wall, which tumbles headlong into the sea beneath. The northern side of the island will average from three to four hundred feet ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 63 in height. Its lofty mural cliffs stand like rude imitations of masonry, and rival in grandeur those of the celebrated Cape Blomidon, in Nova Scotia ; the rock, at many places is perfectly basaltic, and appears like large pieces of timber placed upright, side by side, with a perfection and beauty equal to the basaltic columns of Staffa. These are met by enormous blocks of rliomboidal and amoxphous traps, which, from their architectural arrangement, appear to have been laid by the skill and ingenuity of man. Along the south side of the main island, are a number of smaller islands ; some of them are connected with each other by reafs of rocks, and bars of sand, which are covered by the sea at high water. The smaller islands afford shelter for vessels at all times. A number of ledges appear only at low water— others are always covered by the sea ; to avoid them, the great- est care and experience are necessary on the part of the pilot. On the south-western side of the Grand Ma- nan, appears to be the remains of submarine volcanoes. Between these rocks, and those forming the south side of the Bay of Fundy, on the coast of Nova Scotia, there is a great simi- larity, and it is well know by pilots, that a long reef of rocks extend across this part of u 64 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL the Bay to Brier Island, a distance of fifty miles. Fortunately, the reef is placed so deep beneath the sea, that ships may pass over it in safety, although it alarms the stranger by break- ing of the water over its submarine precipices, and “ dark unfathomed caves.” But what is most remarkable in connexion with this island, (Grand Manan) is the fact, that the whole south side of the main, and all the small islands in that direction, have, within a recent period, been submersed to the depth of eighteen feet. At the time this submersion took place, the is- land w’as not inhabited ; but there are several persons who can remember the tradition, that there once existed between the Main, the three Duck-Nantucket, and other islands, a kind of marsh, which occupied several thousand acres, and was only covered by the sea at high tides. This kind of marsh had also been seen at Grand Harbour, the thoroughfare, and other places along the shore. It produced a peculiar kind of grass, which was used for fodder. All these marshes have now disappeared, and it is only at a few places where any parts of them can be found, and wherever any remnant still re- mains, it is situated eighteen feet below the mark of the highest tide, and is covered during every influx of the sea ; not only this marsh, but account of new-brunswick. 65 large bogs of peat have been buried beneath the ocean, until its waves, and the rapid motion of the tides, have almost removed them, and left their beds to be overthrown twice in every twenty-four hours. The stumps of a great number of trees— the cedar, the hemlock, and pine — still remain firmly secured in the sunken earth by their roots, and the very spots where they flourish- ed, is now covered by succeeding tides. It was by this submersion, that the small islands be- came isolated from the Main, for the marshes and peat-bogs formerly uniting them, were soon removed when they became exposed to the vio- lence of the sea and its currents. It is certain, and the fact is confirmed by twenty-eight years of careful observation, that the tides in the Bay of Fundy, are slowly, but gradually rising every season. This circumstance does not, however, by any means account for the change of level in the south side of the island, where vessels now anchor at places formerly dry at low-water, and where their tackle is often entangled among roots and stumps of trees that formerly stood above the level of the ocean. There have been also instances, within the present era, of whole continents being elevated by subterranean causes, while the coral insect J historical and statistical of the Pacific Ocean is raising his mound be- neath the sea to become at last the residence of man - — while the Ganges is sweeping up the sand, and building islands, — the volcanoes of Iceland are lifting the lava above the water, and the “ earth’s safety valves” are performing the double office of venting internal heat, and erect- ing continents. However remote may be the time when the islands in the Passamaquoddy Bay were raised up, there can be no doubt that they owe their existence to causes to be ex- plained, by referring to operations still in con- tinuance upon the earth, and a violence that once shook the strata to their lowest founda- tions. The largest of these small islands are inha- bited ; and although the soil is scanty, fine crops of grain and potatoes are generally produced. It is from the excellent fisheries the inhabitants derive their chief support, and, therefore, a soil capable of successful cultivation is neglected. The season is short, and the frosts appear early in the autumn ; but vegetation is rapid, and fine fields of ripe wheat may be seen in the month of August. Inhabited houses in Grand Manan, are 154 ; families 170 ; cleared land, 2671 acres. A small sailing vessel visits the island from account of new-brunswick. 67 St Andrew’s twice a-week. In the fishing sea- son, a great number of American vessels at- tend at this time. In fine weather, the surface of the water around the land is covered with these craft, and a more singular and lively scene can scarcely he presented than the panorama of Northern Head. This fishery is of great value to New-Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Nearly all the islands in Passamaquoddy Bay, and along the coast, present to the north, steep or perpendicular cliffs, while, on the south sides, they descend by a gradual slope down to the sea. This circumstance has arisen from the col- lection of diluvial debris formed in the ed- dies made by these prominences, and is exactly similar to those occurring daily in rivers, upon a much smaller scale. A dreadful fire broke out in August 1839, by which the Episcopal Church was entirely consumed. There are 154 inhabited houses ; 170 families, and 2671 acres of cleared land. The road from St Andrew’s to Fredericton is through the Brockway s, Harveys, and Hana- velle settlements. The first of these is in York County. From the Digdognash, to this place, there are but few settlers ; there is a fair pro- portion of good land, but much of it lies be- J 68 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL tween two rivers, and which is flat, low, and unfit for cultivation. Between this place and the Harvey settlement, there is a beautiful dis- trict of excellent land, all held and owned in a wilderness state by the proprietors. The Har- vey settlement is composed of English and Scottish emigrants. A few years ago they suf- fered severe hardships and privations, but at present they are in comfortable dwellings, and making great clearings in the woods. From here, to the Hanwell settlement, the road passes through much farming land, with several patches of swamps and barrens, and some ranges of stony ground, which reach near the Erina Lake. This settlement consists of about twenty fami- lies, from the Emerald Isle. From this place to Fredericton, the land is thickly studded with heavy hemlock and spruce, and the road leads to the Oronoco Lake, till the traveller reaches the seat of government. account of new-buunswick. 69 CHAPTER III. Fredericton, its Situation, Size, Progress, Trade, Buildings, its Advantages, Inhabited houses, Families, Persons, Acres of Cleared Land, Horses, Neat Cattle, Sheep, Swine, dis- tance from St John’s, St Andrew’s, Chatham, Quebec, and Halifax.— Chatham, Douglas, Bathurst, Dalhousie, Richibucto, Shediac, Petitcodiac, Hopewell, Sackville, Dorchester, Sussex-Vale, Dutch-Valley, Londonderry, Penn-Mill Creek, Black-River, Hampton, Kingston, Shef- field, Gagetown, Woodstock, Keswick, &c.— Prince Wil- liam, Jackstown, Wakefield, with an account of their Soil, Public Buildings, Churches, Mills, Families, Acres of Cleared Land, &c. Fredericton is about seventy miles from St John, and is the seat of the Provincial Govern- ment, and is situated at a place formerly called St Ann’s, having been settled since a.d. 1785. Here is the residence of the Lieutenant-Gover- nor, and the legislature holds its sittings here. Fredericton, though at the head of a sloop na- vigation on the St John, and from that cir- cumstance, is doing considerable business with the inhabitants of the surrounding country,— presents none of the bustle of a trading town. J 70 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL but wears rather the aspect of a country vil- lage. It stands on an extensive and level plain, about a mile in length, and half a mile in rear, with high ground in the rear, and on either side. It has evidently been the bed of a for- mer lake, and was probably laid bare when the retiring waters of the St John made their last abrupt escape, and fell to their present ordinary level. The streets are regularly laid out, being all at right angles. The principal building in Fredericton, and perhaps the finest architectu- ral structure in the Province, is the University of King’s College, which occupies a command- ing position on the hill in rear of the town. The College building, besides excellent lecture- rooms, and a chapel, afford ample accommoda- tion for professors and students — its two sto- ries and basement being devoted to these pur- poses. Ihe size of the building is 170 feet long, by 160 feet wide, with a handsome por- tico to the main entrance. It is built of dark grey stone, curiously intermingled here and there with narrow lines of brick, the use of the last being, in my opinion, of unquestionable taste in so massive a structure. The College has been liberally endowed by the Province. The Province Hall, a most unpretending edi- ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 71 fice, for the sittings of the legislative bodies, having, on either side, smaller buildings appro- priated as the office of the secretary of the Pro- vince, and the commissioner of Crown Lands ; the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor is at the upper part of the town, and in a delightful situation, commanding a pleasant view of the river — it contains Madras and other schools. The other buildings which attract attention, are the Baptist Seminary, two stories high, sixty feet by thirty-five wide, attended by near- ly one hundred pupils of both sexes ; the Epis- copal Church is a neat building ; the Presbyte- rian Church stands near the Baptist Seminary, and this last year has been greatly enlarged.* There is also a large Baptist chapel, which was built in 1840 ; a Roman Catholic chapel, and a Methodist chapel, are the several places of Divine worship in the place. A Reading-Room has also lately been established ; and there is a well selected public library. There are also three banks, an alms-house, an excellent bar- racks ; a branch of the commissariat is also sta- tioned here, and Fredericton has been made military head-quarters for the lower Provinces. • The writer of this officiated in the above church, on Sabbath, the 30th September 1837. u 72 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL Fredericton was formed by Governor Carl- ton, shortly after the separation of the Province from Nova Scotia. From this place, as from a centre, roads diverge to the different parts of the Province, which are of easier access from Fredericton, than from any other point what- ever. The principal places, such as St John’s, St Andrew’s, Cumberland, Chatham, Bathurst, and Madawasvia, lying in a broken circle round it. As a military position, it is unequalled— as from the contiguity of the different important parts of the Province, they could be sooner ob- tained from this place than any other. It also forms a connecting link between the Atlantic colonies and Canada, and is a safe and conve- nient place for forming magazines, and equip- ing troops on their route from the sea board to Quebec. The importance of this place for those purposes, was well realized during the last war (in 1837-38) and should not be lost sight of. The river St John appears to have been the old and usual route of the French and Indians in passing from Canada to Nova Scotia, and New-England, long before New-Bruns- wick was settled; and Fredericton and the vil- lages near it, no doubt, were among the princi- pal Indian stations, long before the country ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 73 was known to the French or English. Ac- cording to Douglas, this was the most direct route from New-England to Canada, and was taken by Colonel Livingstone, and the Baron Castine, in a.d. 1710, when they went in great haste to acquaint the Governor- General that Arcadia had fallen into the hands of the Bri- tish. The natural advantages Fredericton posses- ses from its recent position, became every year more important, and it is only to be desired, that the time is not far distant, when her inha- bitants will avail themselves of those facilities afforded by the proximity of water-power, to establish manufactories and machinery. In- deed, a spirit of enterprise appears to be rapidly spreading in this place, (Fredericton) which cannot fail, if properly directed, to produce the most beneficial results. Thus, eligibly situated, it certainly is to be regretted, that it is not more distinguished for enterprise, and that it is destitute of those use- ful institutions which exercise so beneficial an effect upon society, and without which, its mem- bers must be deficient of that intelligence and liberality that characterize the present age, but which are almost invariably the result of intel- lectual improvement. It is also a misfortune J 74 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL for the place, that efforts are not made to arrest a large portion of the trade of the upper part of the Province on its way to St John, for the merchants, generally speaking, procure their supplies of British, West India, and other goods from the city ; and as steamers run twice a-day between that place and Fredericton, which is seventy miles by water, persons of stated in- comes, and others who can afford it, procure the principal part of their supplies and clothing from Halifax (N. S.) that city, and even from England and the United States; although there is abundance of cultivated and excellent land in the vicinity of the town, and settlements are rising up continually at no great distance above and around it. Owing to the lumbering pursuits in which the people on this river, as well as in other places, have engaged, and to which toilsome and semi-savage life they are unaccountably prone ; a large amount of property is under mortgage to the supplying merchants, who have to secure themselves in this way for provisions, and ar- ticles advanced to enable parties to pursue an occupation attended with very great risk. And, as fi om various causes, individuals who are not involved, have farms to dispose of,— emigrants, or others, having a small capital at command, ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 75 and being desirous of settling in the country, can have no difficulty in procuring eligible si- tuations in any part of the Province at a mode- rate price. Fredericton, which has been for sometime the extreme point to which steam navigation has advanced — when we consider that it is a place where the public offices are situated, and the heads of departments reside, and is sur- rounded by a well settled country, it is natural to infer, that it is one of much importance, and that there would be employment for a consider- able number of persons of various pursuits. By a return made in 1840, it appears that there is a population in the parish alone, amounting to 4000 souls. As the object I have in view is to point out places where the man of property may invest his capital in the purchase of lands — the me- chanic and labourer find employment, and the emigrant a settlement — it will be proper that I should state with candour, any difficulty that exists in this part. As to servants, a class of persons on whom the domestic order and com- fort of a family principally depend — those of a good description are much wanted ; but it is in vain to expect them, in the absence of those wholesome laws and regulations that prevail in u 7G HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL tlie Mother Country. Here domestics are hired by the month, without any regard to character or qualification, merely to meet the exigencies of the present moment ; and the result is, a succession of changes is continually taking place, and complaint is the order of the day. As to the labouring men, and the mechanics, the wages they obtain is high, but the mode of payment, (chiefly out of the shop) reduces it probably to its proper level, although it acts unjustly upon those who are not disposed, or are not so situated as to pay in this way. The result is, that great difficulty exists in having work of any kind completed promptly ; and in this respect, as well as others, Fredericton ex- hibits a state of society not to be equalled in North America. Persons complaining of those whom they employ, and others who are em- ployed, being dissatisfied with their employ- ment ; a remedy for all this is to be found only in a resort to cash payments. When indivi- duals are hired, they should be paid for their labour in cash, and allowed to purchase any articles they may require, when that can be done to the best advantage. If those who re- side in the neighbourhood of the place have any debts to pay, or agricultural produce to dispose of, instead of as at present, taking it to t ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 77 a shop where they are indebted, or where an apparently high price is given, payment being made in goods at an advanced rate to meet it ; this should be carried to a public market, and there sold upon the best terms, and the party should pay his debts in money, and make his purchase in a similar way. AY ere this healthy state of business to prevail, much of the pre- sent cause of complaint would vanish — compe- tition would be introduced, and the exorbitant rate of living must be materially reduced. From its situation, Fredericton ought to be a place of excellent business, and should be abundantly supplied with provisions ; but at present the former is confined to a retail trade, and advances to lumbering parties, while the place is very irregularly supplied with fresh provisions ; and although there is a large mar- ket-house in Fredericton, yet there is but one butcher in it, and only three bakers in the town. There is, besides, a sort of non-clialance pervad- ing the labouring classes of society in this place, that is quite novel and unpleasant to those who have enjoyed the benefit of the conventional re- gulations that abound in the Mother Country, and other parts of the British possessions in this hemisphere. As respects the man of property, however, E 78 u HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL lie can obtain land under cultivation in tbe vici- nity of Fredericton, at a moderate price, and can have the advantage of good society, and excellent means of educating the juvenile bran- ches of his family. Inhabited houses in Fre- dericton, in 1840, are 489; families, 708; houses building, twenty-nine ; houses uninha- bited, twenty ; Males above sixteen, 1061 ; under sixteen, 829; Females above sixteen. 1666 ; under sixteen, 798. People of colour- males above sixteen, twenty-eight ; under six- teen, forty-three ; females above sixteen, forty- eight ; under sixteen, twenty-nine. — Total per- sons, 4002. Acres of cleared land, 1696 ; horses, 248 ; neat cattle, 524 ; sheep, 380 ; swine, 642. Fredericton, by land, is sixty-five miles from St J ohn’s ; on the east side of the river eighty- six. To St Andrew’s, by the Neripsis, 100; to Chatham (Miramichi) 114 ; to Quebec, by the Grand Falls, 346; to Halifax, Nova Sco- tia, by the Bend of Petitcodiac, Dorchester, and Amherst, 308. Opposite Fredericton are two rivers, that at the lower part of the town is called the Nash- waak, flowing from the northward, for a dis- tance of twenty miles, when it turns to the northward and westward, and ultimately heads ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 79 beyond W oodstock, which is the capital of the county of Carlton, of which we shall mention, that Woodstock is sixty-four miles from Fre- dericton. There is a church, — a Methodist and Catholic chapels. There are 482 inhabited houses, occupied by 520 families, and have, at least, 9757 acres of cleared land. There are eight other parishes in this county, which we shall notice hereafter. Twelve miles from Fredericton, the intervale appears on both sides expanding to a consider- able extent. Another road from Fredericton strikes the Naswaak, at a considerable distance from this place. About eighteen miles below Fredericton, the road to Miramichi turns off to the right, and ascending a steep hill, pur- sues its course over a dreary portage, about fourteen miles in extent, until it arrives within four miles of Boistown, situated on the south- west of Miramichi, about seventy miles from Chatham, and forty from Fredericton, There is a fertile track of country sufficient for 250 families. Newcastle and Chatham are the next places of any importance. On leaving Bois- town, which is forty-five miles from Frederic- ton, and sixty-eight miles to Chatham, we pass through a small village called Blissfield, in which u 80 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL there is, inhabited houses, sixty-eight ; families, seventy-one : acres of cleared land, 545. About three miles on this side of Newcastle, there is a small ferry to cross (Wilson’s Point.) Newcastle is the shire town of the county. (Northumberland) and was greatly injured by the extensive fire of 1825, which swept off that part of the Province — from the effects of which, it has never since recovered, although, as the country above bocomes more agricultural, it must, from its position, necessarily resume its former importance. There is a Presbyterian church here. Inhabited houses, 404 ; inhabi- tants, 433 ; acres of cleared land, 2000. Douglas is about a mile from Newcastle, on the road to Chatham ; is seated on the north bank of the river, and was destroyed in the ge- neral conflagration of 1825, and has since been rebuilt. It contains stores and tradesmen’s shops. Messrs Gilmour & Pankine carry on an extensive business here. The most conspi- cuous building in this place, is a fine edifice for a marine hospital. About five miles from Douglas, is Chatham, which is situated on the south side of the river. At the east of this village, is a Presbyterian church, dedicated to St Andrew, a small but neat ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 81 edifice, surmounted by a spire, with an inserted belfrey. There is also an Episcopal, Catholic, Secession, and Wesleyan-Methodist churches — the latter will contain five hundred and fifty persons. The building is neat, and well ar- ranged, and has a fine portico, embellished with Grecian pillars, which inclose a double vesti- bule. At this place, the Messrs Cunards have a very large steam, saw, and grist mill estab- lishment. There is a post-office, reading-room, and printing office, which issues a newspaper every Tuesday, called “ the Gleaner.” The village is exceedingly ill laid out, both for ele- gance and convenience. The buildings stand along both sides a very crooked road, without the least appearance of order or regularity. The river abounds with fish, particularly shad and salmon. It is about a mile broad, but contacts towards Newcastle, where its breadth does not exceed half a-mile ; yet, notwithstand- ing its narrowness, the waters are brackish above these places. The current of the Mira- michi is less rapid than that of the St Law- rence, and the tide rises in a less degree, but, with an easterly gale, it sometimes rises twelve or fifteen feet. Inhabited houses here are 441 ; families, 582 ; acres of cleared land, 3660. There is an Episcopal church ; also a Scotch u 82 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL church. There is likewise a Secession, a Wes- leyan-Methodist, and a Catholic chapel— each of which is supplied with a minister. Oppo- site Newcastle, Alexander Fraser, Esq. has a compact steam saw-mill establishment. The next place after leaving Chatham, that is worthy of any notice, is Bathurst ; this place is between the Miramichi river, and the Resti- gouche, at the bottom of a deep indent in the Bay Chalaur, and in former years was called Nipisiguit Harbour ; here a thriving village has sprung up, containing 291 inhabited houses, 361 families, and 2171 acres of cleared land. This village is in the county of Gloucester, and is forty-eight miles from Chatham. There is also a Wesleyan-Methodist chapel, with a re- sident minister. There is a road leading from Bathurst to Dalhousie ; the principal of the county Restigouche, which is seventy miles dis- tant by land ; and at the head of the Great and Middle Nipisiguit, form a junction ; the village of Bathurst being placed on the Penin- sula thus caused. There is an excellent road, nearly level, and in a direct line from Chatham to this place, passing through a country chiefly covered with heath and burnt wood, until you come within about twenty miles of Bathurst, when a decided improvement takes place ; and ACCOUNT OE NEW-BRUNSWICK. 83 the traveller meets with something resembling a fine country, lying on its promontory to the right, and which is watered by the Caraquet, Pokamonche, Tracadie, Tabusintac, Bartibog, and other minor rivers. Dalhousie has 136 inhabited houses, 140 families, and 2168 acres of cleared land. Richibccto, the capital of the county of Kent, which is on a fine river of that name, is a flourishing village. It has 315 houses, with 322 inhabitants, and 4563 acres of cleared land ; there is also a Catholic and Wesleyan chapels, with a resident minister to each. It is forty miles from Chatham, fifty miles from the Bend of Petitcodiac, and 145 miles from St John, by Sussex- V ale and Hampton-F erry . From this place we proceed to Shediac, which is fifteen miles. The country on its surface is very low and level, not averaging more than twenty-five feet above the level of the water of the Straits of Northumberland. Oysters are abundant on this shore, and their shells are used for manure. The harbour of Shediac is safe and convenient for ships of large size. There arc in the settlement upwards of two hundred families of French Acadians. The front of the harbour is occupied by English u ^ 84 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL inhabitants, and the whole appears in a very thriving- condition. At the entrance of the harbour, there are two beautiful islands com- posed of sand-stone. Shediac is in the county of Westmorland, — contains 278 houses, 310 in- habitants, and 6479 acres of cleared land. From this place we proceed to the Bend of P etitcodiac. After leaving the postage between Shediac and the Bend, the western extremity of the Petitcodiac passes through a track of fine intervale, enclosed between high embankments that appear to have been washed by the river at some former period. The stream is now confined to more narrow limits, and its formed bed is almost filled with alluvium. At the Bend, there is a considerable village. The soil is chiefly of two kinds — the sandy an cl the clayey. There are large tracks of marsh on each side of the Petitcodiac, of which a portion has been diked, and is under cultivation* The land in the neighbourhood of the Petitcodiac, and ex- tending over to the Bay- shore, from which it , $cc. CHAPTER IV. Remarks on the Forests, their Growth— Different kinds of Wood growing in the Province — Maple, Sugar, and the way of obtaining it — the Hackmatic, its quality and pur- poses— the Soil— Intervale— effects of Fire on the Forests, &c. — Manure— time of Planting — Manner of Reaping. — Objects of Natural History — the Moose, its size, nature, and quality — the Caribou, its size, nature, &c. — the Bear, its colour, size, nature, &c. — the Otter, Fox, Mink Fish- er, Woodchuch, Racoon, and Porcupine— the Beaver, the manner in which they build their houses, and the means they make use of to escape from their enemies — the Musk- Rat, and the Squirrel. Fish, Whale and Shark species, bony and castilagenous, found in the waters of New- Brunswiek. That the forest growth which clothes the sur- face of the British Provinces is not primeval, I am convinced of, by a number of concurrent circumstances ; and that it has been devastated at intervals, is not only congenial to appear- ances, but in accordance with the traditions of the Indians, and the relations of the earliest settlers. A great number is still living, who . — 112 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL can recollect a terrible conflagration, which com- menced its ravages in the State of Maine, and only ceased its destructive influence at the river St John, destroying nearly the whole forest be- tween the south-west branch of the Oromocto, and the Bay of Fundy. That territory was, until the fire of 1825, overspread with a thick growth of all the different forest trees — the pines of which attained the height of eighty feet, with a thickness of eighteen inches. Around the Grand Lake and the Washade- moac, a growth of trees is seen somewhat lar- ger than those above described, but which clearly shews the effects of fire upon the soil, not greatly anterior, and it is highly probable, that the same fire which desolated the shores of those lakes, extended its ravages south-east- ward to the Kennebeekasis, and upwards on the banks of that river to its source. Modern visitations of so awful a description, are more apparent, and more easily traced ; but vestiges of those which occurred in former times, are sufficiently distinct to prove, that the most tre- mendous in extent occurred long before the Province was settled. But the damage occa- sioned to the timber, which was the only loss incurred in those times, was of incalculably less value than the consequences of those of late oc- 113 ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. currence, which, at one fell swoop, and electri- cal suddenness, consumed the labours of a life, and closed the existence of many. The distribution of the forest is not such as an Englishman, accustomed to the cultivated woods in his own country, might reasonably imagine ; instead of being tastefully intermingled in ac- cordance with the reveries of St Pierre, nature has disposed the growth generally in stripes, ridges, or groves — the deciduous trees, for the most part, by themselves, and changing sud- denly, often with scarcely a shade of admixture, to an evergreen growth. The great distinguish- ing denominations of wilderness land, as usually understood throughout North America, are hard-wood and soft-wood land, and barren plain. The liard-wood are the ash, beech, birches, maple, oak, and all the deciduous trees. The soft-wood, are cedar, hemlock, spruce, pine — the larch, (though not an evergreen) included. From the Maple, the inhabitants extract a great quantity of sugar, which is very easily obtained for domestic purposes, and even for sale, from 3d. to 4 d. per lb. The method of producing it is, by making an incision in the tree, about an inch and a-half deep, by two in- ches wide, from which the sap of a saccharine nature runs off into small troughs, and from rj 114 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL them is put into boilers on a slow fire ; the longer this gradual boiling is continued, the more refined will be the sugar. When finished, it is poured into pots, and when cooled, is har- der than loaf-sugar. The shimmings make ex- cellent molasses. A good sized tree will, at an average, produce six pounds of sugar without being exhausted, and will continue to do so an- nually. Those useful trees abound in the Pro- vince ; I have known several families make from twelve to twenty cwt. in a season. I have frequently seen the inhabitants extract the above. The working class of people use it on account of its being so easy obtained, and that upon their own land. The Hackmatic is considered by some as an inferior species of pine, peculiar to the British Colonies, and which is extensively used in colo- nial built vessels, is essentially the “ Larch” of Europe, and that the difference that exists, if any, are solely attributed to climate or soil; and that, therefore, for the various purposes of ship-building, for which larch is applicable, Hackmatic is so likewise, and moreover, that the larch is one of our most valuable timbers for naval purposes. Larch is termed— Pinus Larix, Pinus, Pen- dula. Lamb. Larix Americana. Michaux. Epi- V7 7 ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 115 nette Rough, by the French Canadians. Hack- matic or Tamarack, by the American and Eng- lish settlers. It belongs to one of the sections of the pine tribe, but by a similarity in cones and wood, seems to be allied to the cedars, from which it differs in not being an evergreen. The leaves in bundles and desiduous ; cones, oblong; branches, pendulous; wood, exoge- nous ; timber, shewing very little sap ; wood, bark rough, approaching that of cedar. The Hackmatic grows generally throughout the north-eastern States of the Union, and Bri- tish America, but it is found in the largest quantities in this Province, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward’s Island. The name, no doubt, is of Indian origin. The timber is straight- grained, fitting it for small spars of ships ; the main-mast of a vessel of 350 tons, have been made of it. It works roughly— is rather given to warp — is hard, strong, and very durable. In the colonies it is generally used as a building timber, both for houses and small craft ; it is particularly approved for knees to fasten the beams of ships, the butt of the stem, and one of the principal roots forming the angle requir- ed. Treenals made of it, are also considered to be of a very superior quality. It is not a timber of commerce, nor is it con- O' llt> historical and statistical verted to any extent, but for house and ship- building in the Colonies. It is sometimes sawn into deals, but never shipped as Hackmatic deals, being occasionally called juniper, or red-spruce, though more generally confounded with spruce and hemlock, and shipped as inferior goods. Hard working and warping deals, however va- luable on the score of strength and durability, are not valued in the home market, where soft- ness of grain, freedom of working, and absence of warping, have given a preference to the white or yellow deal of America. The wood burns with a crackling noise, and though not so easily ignited, as most of the pine tribe, when once blazing, burns with great briskness, giving out a fervent heat, and, tkere- foie, in great request for the fuel of steam- boat engines in Canada and the United States. Colonial vessels built of this wood, are noto- riously durable, inferior to none but teak or British oak, and excepting, in one instance, viz. the British merchant, there is no record of such vessels having been destroyed by dry rot, while, in several cases, the oak and other materials sur- rounding and attached to the Hackmatic, has been found destroyed by dry rot; the larch has continued perfectly free. Barren or cari- boo plains bear on the peat, which is often ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 117 many feet in depth, a few scattered spruces and creeping cranberries, and these parts of the country have as yet received no attempts to reclaim the soil. The land which produces the hard-woods, is generally good, and is brought into cultivation with the least expense, but both kinds of growth are sometimes found in- termingled ; and where the w T ood is large and thrifty, this soil is known to be the best for the varied purposes of the settler. Land covered with a growth of spruce or pine alone, is sel- dom found to repay the outlay of the farmer. High land entirely covered with beech, gene- rally proves gravelly, cold, and hungry soil, and every way less desirable for the settler than many kind of swamp. Clay generally predomi- nates in a cedar swamp, the closeness of which soil, by offering to the spring, confers an im- perishable bed, which affords to that evergreen the moisture it loves. This a new settler dis- approves of ; but if he can afford the outlay of capital necessary for clearing it properly — par- ticularly if the colour of the clay incline to red- ness, and turn up the surface to the joint in- fluences of the summer sun and winds, and the winter frosts and snows, it will be found to re- pay his labour in a far greater degree than hard-wood upland. 118 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL Land of an alluvial origin, is generally over- spread with a growth of elm, maple, birch, and with a few thrifty spruces and firs ; and where this growth is found, particularly if butternut trees be interspersed, the soil is invariably of the best quality. The elm and the butternut delight in the alluvium of rivers, and they seem to be the favourite, and almost spontaneous production of that kind of soil ; but in some parts of the Province, particularly on the butter- nut ridge, at the head of Washademoak river, and the settlements of Richmond, Jacksontown, and the High Plains, which characterize in so peculiar a manner the right bank of the river St John. A thick growth of alders is the produce of a vegetable soil — the creation of moisture and fermentation, and is highly productive of the natural and artificial grasses ; but the sub-soil is frequently a bed of sand, or some other bar- ren formation. The alluvium formed by means of salt water, is, in this Province, of two kinds. The most extensive, and by far the most va- luable, are the clayey formations on the estua- ries of the rivers which disembogue into the head of the Bay of Fundy, created solely by the deposition of mud, which every returning flood-tide bears in solution ; and these heavy ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 119 lands have been reclaimed from the dominion of the sea, by lengthy and expensive embank- ments. It will be necessary to inform those in the Mother Country, that the land which he under- stands by alluvial or diluvial, when found on the banks of fresh water rivers and streams, is universally called in America intervale ; but the marshes washed by salt water, retain the same appellation here as those at home.* * Intervale is a term peculiar to America, and denotes that portion of land which is composed of the alluvial depo- sit of large brooks and rivers, when swollen by rains in the spring and autumn. It occurs in almost every county in the Province, and is sometimes found covered with a long natu- ral grass, several feet in length. The quality varies accord- ing to the size of the stream, brook intervale being gene- rally preferable to that on the banks of rivers. It produces grain of all kinds, but is not so suitable for pasture as many tracks of good upland. Of the quantity ot intervale con- tained in the Province, no account can be given, nor is it easy to form a conjecture, much of it being yet in a state of nature. Interval is, doubtless, a word of English origin, to which a new meaning has been assigned. The land which is now known by that name, is almost the only part of the forest which has large intervals, or large spaces between the trees. These spots may, in very many places, be cultivated without the aid of the axe, and indicate at once the value and fertility of the soil. These intervals are no where to be found but in low alluvial grounds, which, in process of time, have drawn to themselves the peculiar appellation of inter- val land. It has been supposed by some to be derived from 120 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL Marsh. — This land is also composed of allu- vial sediment, consisting of the drainings of the upland of putrescent matter, and saline par- ticles, deposited by rivers after their juncture with the salt water. In its natural state, it produces a strong, coarse, aquatic grass ; but when inclosed by dikes, and well drained, is exceedingly fertile, yielding, for several years in succession, abundant crops of wheat, and al- ternate rotations of hay and grain, without the aid of manure. The method of giving fertility to soil, consists in dividing and breaking its particles. This is effected in two ways,— -first, By fire ; secondly , By tillage. The former is adopted by the new settler, who burns the wood upon the soil where it grows ; and the other, by the oc- cupant of cultivated land. These two classes of people constitute the agricultural part of the Province, and a sketch of the mode pursued by each, will convey a just idea of the husbandry of the country. As the surface of the earth, in the Latin inter and vallum ; but besides the objection to this conjecture, that intervals do not necessarily occur between hills, we may also suppose, that settlers in the wilderness are not apt to use Latin compounds, where there is no ap- propriate word in their own language. It is written inter- val and intervale . 121 ^7 ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. its natural state, is covered with timber, the first step towards cultivation is its removal, which is accomplished by cutting down the trees. There are two seasons in which this operation is performed — late in the autumn, and in the month of March — each of which has its peculiar advantage. The first is a period of the year, when the employment does not inter- fere with any other duty, and is recommended by its depriving the stumps of trees of the power of generating sprouts. The latter is generally preferred on account of its accelerating the effects of the fire, of the length of the days, and of the ease with which the wood is then cut.* If the wood be cut in March, the fire is applied to it about the latter end of August, when the ground is generally fitted for the reception of winter corn ; at the same time that the grain is committed to the ground, grass seed is also sown, and the land continues under the scythe, until the removal of the stumps admits of the application of the plough. The progress of decomposition in the roots of trees, varies according to the species of wood. Pine and hemlock resist decay for a great length of time, but, in general, land may be prepared for tillage in five or six years. It is admitted that the first crop of grain from 122 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL good soil, will repay to a settler all the expense connected with the clearing of the ground, the purchase of seed, and the erection of fences. The grain, notwithstanding the obstruction of stumps, is easily harvested, and the grass that follows, gathered with less difficulty than might be supposed. The operation of cutting the grain, is much facilitated by the use of a “ cradle,” which is a machine of American invention. It is com- posed of a scythe, and its handle, with the ad- dition of a few light bars of wood, placed paral- lel with the blade ; the straw is severed with this instrument, and as it falls behind the scythe, is received by the frame. The mower, by a dexterous movement, which can alone be attained by practice, disencumbers the cradle of the grain, and deposits it at his feet, as re- gularly, and much more expeditiously, than if it were reaped. But wheat and rye do not in- variably constitute the first crop upon new land. Turnips, indian corn, and potatoes, particularly the latter, often precede grain, and as the cal- cination of the soil changes the nature of its productions less than manure, they are much superior in quality, than when raised upon land which has been long cultivated. At the end of the second year, the settler is in a condition to VZ7 ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 123 keep a stock of cattle, his grain having been succeeded by hay. Additional clearings, while they supply him with wheat and potatoes, add also to the extent of his pasturage and hay land ; and at the expiration of six years, the piece of ground, first cleared, is in a suitable state for the eradication of the stumps, and invites the commencement of tillage. When his farm is thus situated, and the fire and the plough are both in operation at the same time, it is said it is more profitable than any old land of the same extent ; the soil is not only in its virgin purity, and free from the contamination of weeds, but in full vigour, and its productions are less liable to casualties — better in quality, and more abundant. As few farms are regu- larly divided into fields, each of which receives in its turn a prescribed course of treatment, the land generally remains in grass until the failure of the crop indicates the necessity of a change. The period of sowing differs according to the season and soils, but, in general, wheat and oats are sown in April. Indian corn is planted according to the local circumstances, at any time between the 14th of May and Gth of June. Barley and buck-wheat are sown about the 3rd of June, and turnips about the 15th of July. Mowing commences about the 28th of July; 124 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL reaping begins about the middle of August, and is finished in September. In a new country, the value of manure is not so much regarded. The luxuriant power of vegetation in the virgin moulds is such, that artificial aid is deemed superfluous ; and it is not until after its fertility has been either di- minished or exhausted, by repeated and injudi- cious cropping, that recourse is had to art to restore its vigour. Hence dung, as it is the most obvious and the cheapest, so it is the most common manure. It is only for the last six- teen years that composts and lime have supplied the deficiency of the barn-yard. In a few places, bordering on the basin of Minas, the alluvial deposit of the rivers is applied as a su- perficial dressing to grass land. Sometimes it is incorporated with the soil, by the plough, and amply repays the labour and expense of its application. One of the greatest difficulties experienced in rural affairs in this Province, arises out of the rapid progress of vegetation, which limits the time for planting and sowing to a very short space ; and if any irregularity occurs in the weather at those periods, it not only requires great exertion, but occasions these labours to be performed very imperfectly : from the same cause, the different branches of har- t ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 125 vest are often crowded together in the most in- convenient manner, producing in some instan- ces, additional expense, and in others serious damage to crops. This rapidity of growth af- fects the quality of both the hay and the straw, neither of which are so nutricious as the same productions in England. Agriculture.— Soils are most frequently composed of the following earths, mixed in diffe- rent proportions,— siliba, (flinty) alumina, (clay) lime, magnesia, and the oxides and salts derived from the decomposition of metallic and other mineral matter. To these are added, the diffe- rent parts of vegetables in their several stages of decay. The presence of some of these sub- stances is absolutely necessary to vegetation ; others exert an influence hostile to the growth of plants, when they exist in any considerable quantity, and the predominance of either of the earths, withholds from vegetables that kind of nourishment they require for their perfect growth. It has been ascertained that the most productive soil in all countries, and under the different climates, is one composed of diffe- rent proportions of siliceans (flinty,) calcareous (marly,) aluminous (clayey,) earth in a finely divided state, and containing a greater or less H 126 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL quantity of vegetable and animal matter, re- turning to a mineral condition. It would be impossible to point out the exact proportions of these substances which should be present, under all circumstances, for general productive- ness. These proportions must be regulated by climate, temperature, and more especially, by the peculiar nature of the plant it is called upon to nourish. But this general fact is so far ap- plicable every where, that when the soil is found to be composed almost altogether of one or two of those earths, to the exclusion of almost every other kind of matter, it may, from a knowledge of the circumstances, be greatly improved, and its fertility increased fourfold. By pursuing this inquiry into its minutest ramifications, the quantity of each earth may be so adjusted to all the conditions of climate, si- tuation, and the laws affecting the distribution of plants, that the greatest possible harvest may be reaped from lands which, in their natural and depraved condition, were barren and un- fruitful. This constitutes the science of Agri- culture, that ennobling branch of industry which Nature never fails to reward, when her boun- ties are sought with care, skill, and diligence. The power of some earths to absorb and re- tain moisture, is much greater than others; ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 127 and. as water performs an important office in vegetation, those soils which arc placed upon declivities, and are therefore quickly drained, require a larger quantity of retentive clay, than such as are placed in lower situations, — where, perhaps, the open sand allows the accumulated rain to escape with greater facility, both by evaporation and absorption. The composition of the sub-soil must also be considered. Should it be impervious clay, the water cannot descend even through a thin stratum. Again, if it re- pose upon beds of sand, it escapes by a filtra- tion, with great facility. Almost all upland soils have been derived from the disintegration of the rocks beneath, and frequently at no great distance from them. Even the alluviums can be traced to their birth- place, whence they have been driven by cur- rents still active in their transportation. The greatest fertility of these alluviums has result- ed from the continued action of the causes to which they owe their origin. Those mighty operations that spread a covering over the rocks, wdiereby the earth was rendered a fit abode for man, and his associate animals, are now almost inactive on a large portion of the globe. They have not, however, altogether discontinued their useful labour, nor ceased to 128 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL clothe the lower grounds with an annual depo- sit of finally divided matter, and thus to in- crease the food of plants for the growing po- pulation of each continent and island, according to the demands they make upon the vegetable kingdom for food. Agriculture, to be attended to with success, must be conducted upon scientific principles,— some knowledge of the plants belonging to the climate and exotics, and the soil capable of pro- ducing them most abundantly, must be obtained, before the husbandman can receive an adequate reward for his pains, or rejoice over the fruits of his labour. In all the different arts, a knowledge of the materials operated upon is considered indispen- sibly necessary for those whose employment is in them ; and it is surprising that the agricultu- rist, who requires more of this kind of know- ledge than the common artisan, should have been so much neglected, and left to discover, by the experience of a whole life, what he might have known in a single lesson. Innume- rable are the instances where the seed has been scattered in the sand, and in the clay, and be- cause no crop followed, both were condemned as being barren and worthless ; but had those two different substances been mixed in proper ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 129 proportions, a plentiful harvest would have fol- lowed, and the disappointed tiller of the ground would have smiled over the bounties received from Nature’s cornucopia. The different kinds of manure, many of which are abundant in the Province, might be applied with the greatest possible advantage to the soils of every country ; but of all these, the excrementitious matter of stables forms almost the only kind used in the country. Manures are of three kinds, viz. animal, ve- getable, and mineral. Animal , — excrementi- tious matter, fish-shells, bones. Vegetable , — sea-weed, peat-ashes, soot. Mineral , — lime- stone, marl-marly, clay, alluvium of the sea, (marsh mud) alluvium of rivers (mould.) But the litter of the stabling is almost the only ma- nure in many parts of the Province. It would seem that the Chinese had arrived at a more perfect knowledge of these substances in the support of vegetation than any other people. So essential do they consider manure to be the production of crops, that light soil mixed with fat marl, and formed into cakes, is an article of commerce throughout the empire. Peat is abundant in the Province, and most of its varieties will afford manure ; but it some- times happens that the low situations where it 130 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL is accumulated, have been exposed to earth con- taining much iron, and where the salts of that metal render it unfit for such a purpose. Such peat may be known by its ochrey appearance, and the presence of “ bog” and “ shot” ore. The soil of New-Brunswick is extremely va- ried in its composition, having been produced by a variety of causes, and from many different kinds of rock. It is, therefore, necessary that those who cultivate it, should previously take an extensive view of all the facts connected with its former and present condition. To this inductive knowledge, experiments should be added to afford those practical illustrations which unite in the mind, philosophical reason- ing with absolute demonstration. The Chemistry which may benefit the far- mer, is neither philosophical chemistry, nor the chemistry of the laboratory, but it is what may be called the chemistry of Nature, — those simple and elementary rules which affect the ordinary operations, either of Nature or art, constantly going on before us. Such knowledge is useful to every one, and, sooner or later, its value will become apparent. Every farmer is in the habit of using ma- nure of some kind or other ; he spreads over 131 ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. his land something which causes the plants to grow more vigorously, and yield him larger crops than he could obtain without it. A va- riety of different substances are used in diffe- rent parts of the country to produce this effect ; what then is the substance or substances which these different manures contain, and on what does their fertilizing power depend ? Setting aside, for the present, the mechanical effects which many manures produce, and which are frequently very important, let us briefly inquire what is the composition of the ordinary kinds of manure ? The great bulk of manure consists of decaying vegetable and animal matter, dead plants, and a variety of substances of vegetable origin, which, as they formerly constituted liv- ing plants, must necessarily contain those mat- ters which plants require. When these vege- table or animal substances decay, for they are very similar in composition, they are in part dissipated into certain gases ; there is left, after the escape of these gases, a quantity of dark- coloured charry-looking matter, which is com- paratively unchangeable, and besides this, there remains a small quantity of fixed earthy and saline substances, which all kinds of vegetable or animal matter contain. The chemical ele- ments of ordinary manure are certain com- 132 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL pounds of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, sulphur, and fixed salts. llie rotting of vegetable substances in ma- nures, is just the reverse of what takes place when plants grow, as they are gradually sepa- rated again into those very substances from which its plants w r ere originally formed. In consequence of the many abundant sources of those gases, which form part of the food of plants, that exist all over the globe, it follows that the air always contain a small portion of them diffused throughout it, and hence plants can always obtain from it the gaseous substances which they require ; nevertheless, as the quan- tity present in the air is always very small, the addition of manures, which yield more of those gases to growing plants than they could other- wise obtain, is always useful. With regard to the earthy and alkaline salts which plants con- tain, the case is very different ; when we re- move a crop, we take away a quantity of these salts, and the soil, of course, then contains less of them than it did before. There are not the same means naturally provided to restore to the soil these salts, as there are to restore to the air those gases which are essential to the growth of plants. It is true that fallowing does, to a certain extent, restore the soil to its ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 133 original state ; but without going into that sub- ject, it is evident that it is even more import- ant to supply saline, than gaseous matter to plants. Both are important elements of ma- nure, but the former is the most important, be- cause the natural means which exist for keep- ing up a regular supply of them to plants, are less complete than those which regulate the for- mation and distribution of the gases. The old chemists of by-gone times used to marvel greatly whence animals obtained the earthly substances which constitute their bones ; it is now known, that all animals who feed on plants obtain the phosphate of lime, which con- stitutes the greater part of the bone from plants. All plants contain phosphates of lime and magnesia, hence these are important con- stituents of manure. The manufacture of pearl-ash and potash from plants, has existed for a very long time. Plants are burnt merely for the sake of their ashes, which being rich in potash, are valued as a source of that alkali. All plants contain al- kali, either potash or soda ; hence salts of these alkalies are constituents of many of the best manures ; and the ashes of plants, rich in al- kali, have always a beneficial effect when ap- plied to land. The earthy phosphates and al- 134 1 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL kaline salts, are the most important of the sa- line constituents of manure. Looking at ordinary manures, in a chemical point of view, we may divide them into those which supply the gaseous matters on which plants feed, those which supply alkaline salts and phosphates, and those which supply both at the same time. Farm-yard dung is the best kind, and therefore it is adapted for all soils ; it contains all that plants can want. Soot acts principally from the gaseous matters which it supplies to plants ; whilst bones, and more es- pecially burnt bones, may be taken as an ex- ample of a manure which supplies earthy phos- phates. Bearing these facts in mind, it be- comes of the first importance to know what are the cheapest sources of the substances, and how they can be furnished in the most econo- mical and uniform manner. GENERAL REMARKS ON THE FACE OF THE PROVINCE, &c. The distinguishing features of the face of New- Brunswick, are the prevalence along the shore of the Gulf of St Laurence, of an almost per- fect level, the only inequalities of which are perceptible on the banks of the rivers and ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 135 brooks, which have, in the course of ages, made for themselves a deep bed ; but advancing into the interior, and approaching towards the St John’s river, on the west, and the Restigouch on the northern boundary, the surface gradually assumes a bolder and more elevated cast. On the isthmus formed by the Gulf on the east, and Cumberland Basin and the Petitcodiac on the west, there are no elevations worthy of notice ; and in the whole interior, between that river, northward, to the valley of the Nipisi- guit, the inequalities are but inconsiderable un- dulations, but to the southward of the Petitco- diac, the land rises in lofty and rocky aclivi- ties, and is broken into abrupt, hollow, and deep ravines. Proceeding westward, from a line joining the mouth of the Anagance, extend- ing through the interior, northward, to the mouth of the Upsal quitch, advancing across the St John, to the Boundary Line of Maine, the inequalities are lofty and abrupt, frequently assuming the character of mountains, and the forest presenting, in an eminent degree, the higher characteristics of soil. Along the shore of the Bay of Fundy, the spruce growth prevails in the woods, and in- deed, the hard blue rock, which there presents an impassable barrier to the moutain wave of 136 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL the Atlantic, is covered by so little soil, that none but the spruce can derive any nourish- ment. But along this line of sterile coast, if the labour of the agriculturist is poorly repaid, nature presents herself to the eye of the as- tonished traveller, in the most sublime and ro- mantic dresses. The Shepody mountain, near the upper extremity of the Bay of Fundy, the white granite capped heights which inclose the vale of the Nerepsis, the rocky ridges which rise in gradations from the Bay, extending from the Petitcodiac to the Chiputucticook, — the beau- tiful cascades on the Poulet river, and the Le- Proc — the majestic falls near the city of St John, and the picturesque scenery on the Ma- guadavic and the St Croix, can scarcely be sur- passed in beauty and grandeur in any country, where the exuberance of the natural growth offers a barrier to an extensive prospect. What a splendid bird's-eye glance, or pano- ramic view, is seen from the top of a tall pine. Standing on high land, the forest assumes a varied, but beautiful appearance, exhibiting, where the evergreen grows, a deep green tint, and in the deciduous woods, a lighter colour, variegated with all the different shades of green. A picture of such a scene, would present an aspect of admirable beauty, particularly in a ^7 ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 137 part of the country where the surface swells into eminences, and diversify the sameness of the landscape by their oceanic undulations. The leaves and the woods of the evergreens abound with rosin or gum, which renders them so highly inflammable, that on exposure to the action of fire, the flames immediately ascend to the top of the tree, with a roaring crackling noise. The moss, dry leaves, and dead-wood, which covers the surface of the ground, assist- ed by the wind, communicates the fire to the other trees, and if the breeze be violent, no hu- man being can anticipate where the raging ele- ment will terminate its violence. But the fire seldom commits ravages among the hardwood, owing to the want of materials of a highly in- flammable nature, to increase its fury, conse- quently, so soon as it may have passed through a spruce swamp, and arrived at a ridge covered with a deciduous growth, it is supposed there is a sufficient obstacle to stop its further pro- gress. But in the event of a long continued drought, having dried every rotten wind-fall into touch-wood ; and if the fire being attend- ed with strong wind, the sparks and the ignited bark would be driven through the hard-wood ridge, and, in a few minutes, the next ever- green tract would be in a fearful blaze — de- 138 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL structive of the life and vegetation of every- thing within the bounds of its influence, leaving the trees, and even their limbs standing, but scathed and charred, resembling, in many re- spects, a vast collection of masts of Merchant vessels in a large port. Fire will continue to exist in every decayed tree, until rain fall in sufficient abundance to penetrate into all its re- cesses ; and until that auspicious event, no one residing in its neighbourhood considers himself in safety. The effects of fire on the standing timber, is so superficial, that, provided it be cut down and hewed without delay, none but practised eyes can discover the difference between it, and that which may have been cut green ; but, after the first succeeding winter, the worm quickly pierces it with holes, and bereaves it of sap, which renders the timber useless. I would here observe, that when the fire has passed through the woods, it will rage there no more till the land be re-covered with a new growth. The calamity which the inhabitants of this Province have experienced in no lenient degree, constitutes, for the present time, the greatest source of their security. There is a very sur- prising phenomenon attending the succession of the young wood, and that is, in a large tract of ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 139 land, comprising many hundred square miles, which has been desolated by fire ; it generally happens, that, in the course of two years, young trees shoot up at so vast a distance from living ones of the same species, that it seems impos- sible for the winds to waft their seeds so far, consequently, it is almost universally believed in this country, that trees are indigenous to the soil, and spring up without seminal origin. The kind of growth which often succeeds the hard-woods, is spruce, pine, hemlock, a bastard species of maple, frequently wild cherry, white birch, and sometimes poplar, but before the fire occurred here, neither a poplar nor a cherry might have been seen for an immense distance. This hypothesis, at the same time, proves the fallacy of placing entire dependence on the growth of the forest, as a proof of the quality of the soil, and shews, that it is expedient to tear up the moss, and to examine the "quality and depth of vegetable mould, in order to dis- cover the real nature of the soil. The trees, towards the latter end of summer, present a most luxuriant foliage ; the flats in many places are occupied by the deciduous kinds, whose leaves, in their decay, assuming every hue from brilliant scarlet and bright yel- low, to orange and dark brown — contrast their 140 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL varied tints with the deep green of the pines, and produce an effect unequalled by any thing we see in the Mother Country. This splendid variety of foliage, indicates a variety of timber and of soil. The chief kinds of timber, are the oak, ash, cedar, beech, birch, elm, and maple. In concluding this part, I would here make a few observations on the circulation of sap in trees : — A certain writer has justly stated, — “ That the trees which, during several months appear- ed entirely dead, begin gradually to revive, and in the space of a few weeks, will give much more evident signs of vitality ; the buds will sprout, open, and the sweet blossom expand. Though we have observed this revolution at the commencement of several successive springs, w r e have no doubt been ignorant of the means conducing to this end. The effects which we perceive in spring to take place in trees, and other vegetables, are caused by the circulation of the sap, which begins to move in the vessels containing it, when acted upon by a milder air, and increase of warmth. As the life of ani- mals depend upon the circulation of blood, so does the life and growth of plants depend upon the circulation of sap, which is to them what blood is to animals. To effect this, nature has t v_7 ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 141 formed and adapted all parts of vegetables to concur in the preparation, motion, and conser- vation of this nourishing juice. It is princi- pally by the bark that the sap in the spring be- gins to ascend from the roots into the body of the tree, and even throughout the year, life and nourishment are distributed to the branches, and to the fruit which they bear.” F rom the experiments of Coulomb and Knight, it would appear that the sap does not ascend through the bark, but through the wood ; and it is well known that a plant continues to grow even when stripped of a greater part of the bark, which would not be the case if the sap as- cended through the bark ; and those who are in the habit of obtaining sap from the trees, are obliged to carry their incisions deeper than the bark, or they are unable to procure any sap. The woody part of the tree is composed of small longitudinal fibres, extending in spiral lines, closely united together from the roots to the summit of the trees ; amongst these fibres, some are so extremely small and fine, that a single one, scarcely as large as a hair, contains some thousand fibrillae. There is an innu- merable number of little tubes, in which the sap circulates, extending through all the body of the tree to the remotest branches, some i 142 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL conveying it from the root to the summit, and others returning it back again. During the heat of the day, the sap rises through the as- cending tubes, and returns by the descending ones in the cool of the evening. These tubes pass through the leaves, which are also sup- posed to answer the purpose of respiratory or- gans, and absorb the dew and moisture of the at- mosphere ; the sap then is distributed through every part of the tree ; its aqueous part eva- porates by the pores of the vessels, whilst the oily, sulphureous, earthy, and saline particles blend together to nourish the tree, and promote its growth. If the circulation of the sap is checked, if the internal organization of the tree is destroyed, either by a very severe frost, or by age or by accident the tree will die. OBJECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY. When this Province was first discovered, it abounded with a great variety of native ani- mals. The chase and the fishery were the chief objects of attraction to the early emi- grants. Elks have long since disappeared, and the catalogue of those animals which still remain is not numerous. They are as follows The ^7 ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 143 moose, cariboo, bear, fox, lynx, weasel, martin, otter, mink-fisher, wood-chuck, hare, rancoon, porcupine, squirrel-rat, mouse-bat, mole, beaver, and the musquash. The Moose is the largest animal of the fo- rest in this part, and is generally sixteen hands high ; he is of the deer kind, with palmated horns, weighing from thirty to forty pounds, which are shed every year, in the month of February. He has no brown antlers ; his head is long, neck short, ears large and pointed, and nostrils greatly distended ; his upper lip, com- monly called the mouffe, is very broad and pen- dant, his legs remarkably long, his tail short, his withers elevated, and covered with a thick hair like those of the buffalo ; there is also a tuft of black hair pendant from his neck ; his hoof is cloven, and when he trots, the clatter- ing of it is heard at a considerable distance ; his colour is a light grey, mixed with a dark red, his hide is very suitable for leather, being thick and strong, yet soft and pliable ; the hair is long and elastic, and is suitable for mattres- ses ; his flesh is blacker than that of the ox, he feeds on moss, natural grass of intervales, and on the leaves and tender buds of a species of the maple, called moose-wood. When the Indians kill a Moose, they carefully preserve 144 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL the sinews, of which they make the strongest cords, and the tongue and mouffe are sold as great delicacies ; his gait is an exceeding fast trot, which he is enabled to continue for a great length of time, and his course through the woods is proverbially straight. In summer, to avoid the annoyance of flies, he frequently wades into the lakes, where he feeds on aquatic gras- ses and pond lilies. In winter they form herds, and when the snow is deep, they describe a circle, and press the snow with their feet, until it be- comes hard, which is called by hunters, a yard. Here they remain until the snow dissolves, or until they have consumed all the branches and bark suitable for food. As soon as the snow becomes encrusted in March, by alternate thaws and frosts, the Indians go out in quest of them; by the aid of rackets or snow-shoes, they are enabled to pass over the indurated surface with great ease and rapidity, while the moose, who breaks through the icy crust at every step, with his small and forked feet, wounds his legs, and extricates himself with considerable difficulty and fatigue from the holes — in this manner he is wearied out overtaken and shot. The Caribou. — This animal is distinguished by having brown antlers, which are rounder ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 145 than those of the moose, and meet nearer at the extremities. It is not so tall as the moose, but of amazing swiftness, and its hoofs being very large in proportion to its legs, it is not easily overtaken. It is customary to lie in wait for them at certain defiles where they are known to pass, or near waters and feeding- grounds, to which they resort ; they are sup- posed to be a species of the rein-deer of the northern parts of Europe. The flesh is very tender, and of better flavour than that of the moose, and the skin is soft and tough, and makes valuable leather. The Indians make use of the tendons for thread. THE BEAR. The Black Bear only is found in this, and the adjoining Province (Nova-Scotia.) He is 146 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL larger than the European bear, and has been known to weigh more than four hundred pounds. Although carnivorous, he is timid, unless wounded or hungry.* He feeds upon nuts, berries, corn, &c., and sometimes sheep, calves, and pigs. He can climb any tree large enough to sustain his strength, or fill his grasp. When the winter sets in, he retires to his den, which is generally a cave or hollow tree, without making the least provision fqr his support during the severity of the season ; here he remains in a torpid state until the return of spring. The flesh is very palatable, and the ham is considered a great delicacy. The In- dians frequently anoint themselves with the fat, to prevent the annoyance of the musquitoes and flies, both of which are very numerous, and to avoid those rheumatic affections to which they are rendered susceptible by constant exposure to the vicissitudes of the weather. The skin is the most valuable of any of the native animals; and when dressed with the shag on, is much used as a covering for sleighs, and many useful articles of apparel. * I have been within a few hundred yards of several, when I have been riding through the different settlements, which I had to visit monthly. 147 account of new-brunswick. THE FOX. Of Foxes, there are four different kinds,— silver fox, red, grey, and black fox — all of which are smaller, and possessed of less speed and strength than the English fox. I have seen them frequently walk for a great distance, at the edge of the wood, and keeping pace with my horse. Otter. — This animal is about four feet long, exclusive of the tail, (which measures sixteen inches,) and is generally about a foot a half in circumference. From its peculiar mode of living and habits, it has been represented as an amphibious animal, but this is not the case. The formation and appearance of its head re- sembles that of the beaver, but its teeth are like those of a dog ; its head and nose are 148 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL broad and flat, the eyes are nearer the nose than is usual in quadrupeds, and placed in such a manner as to discern every object that is above them. This peculiarity gives it an ad- vantage when lurking at the bottom of a brook for its prey, as the fish cannot perceive any ob- ject that is under them. It is always observed when in chase of fish, to swim against the stream. It lives in holes on the banks of streams, provided with an aperture to admit the air, and for the purpose of retreat, in case of an attack. The colour of the otter is darker than that of the beaver, and is tinged with grey on the breast and belly. It is strong and fierce, and will defend itself with great courage, but when taken young, may be tamed and taught to fish for its owner. It feeds on fish, amphi- bious animals, poultry, and the bark of trees. I here is also the Mink, which is of the otter tribe, but which is smaller and prover- bially black. Its tail is round and flat, and without hair. The Fisher, sometimes called the black cat, and black fox, is an animal resembling the Mar- tin. His colour is black, with the exception of the head and neck, which are grey. Its length is two feet, circumference one foot, and ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 149 the length of its tail twelve inches. It is rare to be met with, and solely taken for its fur. The W oodchuck is a small animal of a red- dish grey colour, that burrows in the ground like a rabbit. It is extremely fat, and its flesh is eaten by the Indians ; it is fifteen inches long, and its circumference is so great, as to give it the appearance of being round. The Racoon resembles the fox in the size and shape of its body ; its head and teeth are simi- lar to those of a dog ; it is upwards of twenty- seven inches in length, and its tail is twelve ; it is covered with a long, thick, and soft hair, of a brown colour, slightly tinged with grey ; its eyes are large, of a greenish colour, and en- compassed by a circle of black ; its tail is round and bushy, tapering to the end, and annulated with several black bars ; its limbs are short — the fore legs shorter than the hinder ; its feet are armed with sharp claws, and it leaps with surprising agility. In its manners, it resembles the squirrel ; in eating it sits up on its hind legs, and serves itself with its fore paws, im- mersing its dry food in water before it eats it. It is often tamed, and is to be found in the wigwams of the Indians. In its wild state, it lives in hollow trees, and feeds on the bark, acorns, and beech-nuts ; but when domesticated, 150 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL will feed on milk, bread, eggs, and is very fond of sweets. It feeds by night, and during the winter seldom leaves its den, from whence it is generally said to live in a torpid state during that period. Its flesh is fit to be eaten, and its fur is preferred by hatters, to all others but that of the beaver. The Porcupine is about the size of a lap- dog, but does not stand so high from the ground. It is covered with long brown hair, interspersed on the back, sides, and tail, with stiff, hollow, white spines, about the size of a wheat straw ; these are tipped with black, sharp at the ends, and slightly barbed, and are in general called quills. These spines are the na- tural defence of the animal, and are so easily detached from its body, as to give rise to the prevailing opinion that it has power to shoot them. I have seen dogs who have hunted these animals, return home with their faces covered with the quills, and which have not only been difficult to extract, but gave great pain when they were taken out. It has four toes on the fore feet, and five on the hind, armed with sharp claws, with which it is enabled to climb trees. The female produces two at a birth ; it dwells in hollow trees, or in cavities under their roots. It feeds on nuts, buds, and the bark \Z7 ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 151 and balsam of the fir-tree. Its flesh is palatable and nutricious ; and its quills are much valued by the Indians, who die them of various co- lours, and use them in ornamenting their mo- chasens, belts, and birchen baskets. The Beaver is an amphibious animal, and said to form the connecting link between quad- rupeds and fishes. Its length is about two feet nine inches ; it has four front teeth called incisors ; the two upper truncated and exca- vated with a transverse angle ; the two lower transverse at the tips. They have also six- teen grinders ; eight in the upper jaw, and the same in the lower. With the former, they cut down trees of soft wood, such as wdiite maple, white birch, poplar, alder, and willow ; and with the latter they break any hard sub- stances. The fore feet are very short, and the toes separate ; the hind feet are membraneous, and adapted for swimming. The tail is oval, scaley, destitute of hair, and about a foot in length. The body is covered with soft, glossy fur, of a brown colour, and the skin generally weighs two pounds. The castor used in medi- cine is found in sacs formed behind the kid- neys. Beavers dwell in houses of their own construction, for which purpose they sometimes unite and form communities. These are built 'U 152 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL either in ponds or running streams ; if in the former, there is no occasion for a dam, but me- rely to select a situation which will admit of an open passage from the cellar to the water un- der the ice; if in the latter, they select a stream which is capable of being dammed, and having cut down trees suitable for their pur- pose, they commence making the foundation of the dams, by placing the sticks up and down the stream, and cementing them with mud. When the dam is erected, it receives a final coating of mortar, made of twigs and clay, for which purpose their tails serve as trowels. There is always a sufficient sluice made in the dam to carry off the surplus water. When the dam is built, they proceed to erect their houses; these they build of the same material, which serves them for food, and in selecting trees for their formation, they are careful to choose those near the water, that they may be floated down the stream, or to cut them in such a manner that they may fall in the proper direction. Their houses generally consist of two or three stories, and are so constructed, that the upper floor shall be above the level of the high- est flood, and perfectly dry. The shape of the building is oval, and the covering is impervious to the weather. Their food in winter consists ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 153 of the bark of poplar logs and other wood, which they generally provide in the autumn, and sink in the pond near their dwelling-houses. As there are always several breathing holes in the ice, which the Beavers keep constantly open, the Indians select one of these for the position of their traps. A short stake is driven into the ground, to which the trap is fastened, to prevent its being carried off by the Beaver ; the trap is then strewed with pieces of willow or alder, of which that animal is very fond, — and in this manner he is generally decoyed. When a Beaver first perceives an enemy, he gives a smart blow on the water with the broad part of his tail, at which signal, the whole family disperse under the water. It is not inconvenient for them to remain along time under the water, nor is their fur injured, even when the animal is drowned in the traps. The best fur is that which is taken in “Feb- ruary or March ; in summer, it is considered much inferior. The Muskrat or Musquash, is an amphi- bious animal, and resembles the Beaver in its habits. It is about fifteen inches in length, its tail about a foot, and similar to that of a rat. It is less afraid of man than the Beaver, and is 154 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL frequently found in ponds and creeks in the cul- tivated parts of the country. The Squirrel is a lively and active ani- mal, and lives principally among the branches of trees, and feeds on nuts and seeds. Its body is small, but beautifully formed, and the common kind is of a brownish colour, and has a large bushy tail. At the near approach of any person, it makes a very great noise ; — this I have heard several times when passing through the various settlements in which my duty called me. They are very numerous in the Province. No perfect catalogue of the birds of New- Brunswick has yet been made, they are gene- rally known by their vernacular names, many of which are of Indian origin, and it is diffi- cult to obtain any accurate information on this head* INSECTS. No catalogue of the Insects of the Province has yet been arranged. Many of them are the same as those of Great Britain, and other tem- perate climates ; we, however, have many spe- \_7 ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 155 cies which are not found there. Some of the sepidoplerous class , are exceedingly beautiful — of these, part fly by the day and a part by night. Of the former, the species are not very numerous, but the latter are to be found in endless variety, of almost every colour, and every mixture of colour. In this branch of Natural History, the waters of New-Brunswick afford a rich field for scien- tific research. Fish. — Whale Species . Bone Whale. Grampus. Porpoise. Black Fish. Herringhog. Snuffer. Fin Back. llumpback. Sulphur Whale. Shark Species . Basking Shark. Bog Fish. Mackerel Shark. Bone Shark. Maneater Shark. Swingtail & Seal. Bony and Cartilagenous . Ale wife. Haddock. Salmon Trout. Bass. Halibut. Sale. Bellows Fish. Hake. Smelt. Bill Fish. Herring. Shrimp. Blue Fish. Horse Mackerel. Sturgeon. Bone Eater. Horn Sucker. Sun Fish. Brook Sucker. Jaggen. Sculpion. Bream. Lump Sucker. Spanish Mackerel. Capeling. Mackerel. Squid. 156 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL Cat Fish. Minow. Shad. Chub Sucker. Pollock. Skate. Cod. Placie. Sea Shad. Cusk. Perch. Sword Fish. Dab. Pond, do. Tom Cod. Dollar fish. Tickerel. Trout. Flounder. Salmon. Wolf Fish. Frost Fish. Sauce Fish. Whiting. Eels. Congor Eel. Lamprey, do. Silver, do. Sand, Shell Fish . Blue Crab. CamDietou, ••••»»• ...... 704 From Fredericton to Richibucto , via Miramichi. To Brown’s, ••••• Young’s, Boie's Town, Hunter’s, De Cantline’s, Cochrane’s, Parker's, Newcastle, Chatham, (Miramichi,) .... M‘Beath’s, Dicken's Bay, (Duvin,) ... Rankin’s (Richibucto,) .... 152 From Richibucto to the Bend. Harris', 8 Little Buctoucli, 9 Cocaigne Bridge, 9 Shediac, 9 To the Bend, 15 50 Chatham to Bathurst. To Goodfellow, 6 11 10 25 14 10 14 13 10 6 12 10 12 From Fredericton to Quebec. To Burgoyne’s Ferry, Munroe’s, Guion’s, Jones', Woodstock Court-House, Victoria, Applesley's, Band’s, Tibbet’s, Restook, Grand Falls, Coomb's, Vital Thibidean’s, Entrance to Madawaska, Lake of Temiscouta, The Portage, River St Lawrence, Kamouraska, St Ann’s, Rivierewielle, St Thomas’, St Joseph’s, - Port Levi, Quebec, < 16 13 5 17 8 8 13 18 10 3 18 12 15 10 24 14 36 18 , 22i . 224 , 15 . 18 . 12 346 258 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL STATE OF THE WEATHER IN EACH MONTH IN THE PROVINCE. January may be considered the coldest month, the average temperature being from 10° to 14°. It drops sometimes 10° or 15° below zero, and remains so for three or four days together. February usually commences with extreme cold, the temperature seldom ranging above 12°. Snow storms are violent and frequent ; the sun, however, before the end of this month, shews gradually his increasing power, and iceicles are seen hanging from the roofs of houses in shel- tered situations. In March , clouds of hail and sleet sweep along the streets with a force hard to be with- stood by man or beast. Cold must be endured in all its variety ; on one day the ground pre- sents to the eye a surface of deep fresh snow to wade through — before night, perhaps a fog sets in with a rapid thaw. Heavy rain succeeds, and torrents of water and melted snow rush down the streets towards the sea. The com- pact mass or cake of ice with which the whole surface of the ground in the town is covered, now begins to make its appearance, and walk- ing becomes even more disagreeable and dan- account of new-brunswick. 259 gerous than ever. This mass of ice is full two feet thick, and cracks into fissures, which form, as were, the beds of little rivers, which dis- charge the melted snow into the sea. In April , the weather is severe and variable. Large quantities of snow fall during the month. The heat of the sun in the middle of the day is too great to allow it to lie long on the ground, scarcely two days at the same time. Sometimes the snow is deep and fresh, at other times soft and sloppy, and again, covered with a crackling coat of ice. Then the north-west wind rages, and calls forth the powers of the young and ac- tive, to make way against its force. In the month of May, the weather has but little improved. The snow falls heavily at in- tervals, and, melted by the increased power of the sun, mixes with mud till the streets are like a bog, and would be considered in any other part of the world impassable. The variations of temperature are excessive— keen frosty winds, and a warm sun, acting together, try the weaker constitutions, nevertheless, those troubled with rheumatism, do not complain. In the month of June, the sun begins to be really powerful; the trees begin to show the first tinge of green. Floating islands of ice, which surround the coast at this season of the 260 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL year, influence the climate most considerably ; till these gradually recede, and becoming po- rous, sink to the water’s edge, the weather is never settled and warm, for in the hottest day, whenever the wind happens to blow from the sea, it drives before it a dense chilling fog, like a moving pillar, over the town ; there, while it rests, the changes of the atmosphere is violent in the extreme ; the very eyes feel cold ; and the sea breeze, which in England invites the invalid to the coast to inhale its freshness, drives the New-Brunswicker within the walls of his house. This evil, however, is of short continuance, for the ice islands, on whose gelid surfaces these damp fogs have been engendered, melt by degrees, and, dispersing themselves over the ocean, cease for the remainder of the year to interfere with the sun’s dominion. July and August are the hottest of all, the sun being usually powerful and oppressive. The uniform heat is greater than in England. In September , the evenings become cold, with frosts, increasing in severity, to the end of the month. In October , the temperature falls, perhaps, to 25° of Fahr. with rough gales from the north- west, sweeping the frozen continent, and answer- ing to our easterly winds. The weather, how- ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 261 ever, is variable, some days still being very warm. In Nwember, a succession of bright sun-sbiny days generally prevails. The fresh frosty air, and bright sun, have acquired that season, the appellation of the Indian summer. The varia- tion of temperature towards the end of the month is very great; sometimes as much as 40° in the twenty-four hours. Some days are close and foggy, others clear and intensely cold. In December , the snow before the middle of the month, begins to lie on the ground, the average temperature being about 20°. ' REMARKS ON THE BOUNDARY QUESTION, BETWEEN GREAT BRITAIN AND 1 HE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. In taking a rapid review of the position in which the Boundary Question remained for a short time, in 1783, the territory could scarcely have any intrinsic value, and if a more distinct and intelligible line of boundary was not laid 262 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL down, this omission did not proceed from any desire to leave in doubt an unsettled point, on which disputes might arise in after times. On the contrary, we believe that no men could have been more anxious than were Adams & Frank- lin, that the treaty to which their honourable names were fixed should correspond with its avowed intention, — “ that of establishing such a beneficial and satisfactory intercourse between the two countries, upon the ground of recipro- cal advantage and mutual concessions, as might best promote and secure to both, perpetual peace and harmony. Treaty of Paris. — In this treaty, the Boun- dary intended to be fixed, is described as fol- lows : — “ From the north-west angle of Nova- Scotia, viz. that angle which is formed by a line drawn due north from the source of the St Croix river to the Highlands, along the said Highlands which divide those waters which empty themselves into the River St Lawrence, from those which fall into the Atlantic Ocean, to the north-western -most head of the Connec- ticut river.” Not proceeding any further in the present extracts, because it is on the construction of these words that all the existing difficulties ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 263 arise, the points to be solved are, first , What was the river St Croix ? What was the range of hills designated by the Highlands ? And as connected with the second question, — W hat rivers were meant by those described as falling into the Atlantic and the St Lawrence ; and, lastly , What was the north-west head of the river Connecticut? In 1794, a treaty of amity was made between Great Britain and the United States, the ob- ject being to ascertain what river W'as meant by the name of the St Croix ? By the fifth article, commissioners were appointed and au- thorized to decide according to evidence on oath, and it was further agreed, that their re- port was to be “ final and conclusive.” • The report of that commission was made. It ap- pears very probable that the point fixed upon by them as the source of the St Croix, was about twenty miles too much to the east-ward, and that there was, consequently, a correspond- ing sacrifice of territory made by England. But the award was held to be “ final and con- clusive,” according to the terms of the treaty, and as such, it has been acquiesced in. Here we see that one of the points in dispute was very fortunately, not, perhaps, very correctly ascertained; and it is much to be regretted, 264 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL that at the same period, the other lines were not struck out before any border quarrels had arisen, and false standards of this planted na- tional had been raised up. In 1814, the unfortunate hostilities between the two countries were terminated by the treaty of Ghent. In the fifth article, it is declared, “ that neither the point designed in the treaty of Paris, as the north-west angle of Nova- Scotia, nor the north-west head of the Connec- ticut, had been ascertained, or the line of the Highlands surveyed. Two commissioners were appointed to declare the boundary, and to make surveys of the line of the treaty of 1783, lay- ing it down upon a map — which map and de- claration, the contracting parties agree to con- sider as fixing the said boundary finally and con- clusively. A provision is subsequently made, that in case of a disagreement between the commissioners, a reference should be made to a friendly sovereign or state. The commission- ers not being able to agree on a Boundary Line, a convention was entered into at London in 1827, by which it was agreed to refer the ques- tion to the decision of a friendly sovereign ; and the fifth article provided, in the spirit of the previous engagements, that “ the decision of the arbiters, when given, shall be taken as ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 265 final and conclusive, and shall be carried, with- out reserve, into immediate effect by the con- tracting parties. The king of the Is etherlands was subsequently named as the arbitrator, and his award was given in 1831. In that award, the king of the Netherlands negatives the line claimed by Great Britain, as well as that claimed by the United States. The award sets forth, — “ Que la nature du differences, et les stipulations, vagues et non suffisantes deter- minees du traite de 1783; n’admettant pas d’adjuger l’une on l’autre de ces lignes, a l’une des dites parties sans blesser les principes de droit et d’ equite cn vers P autre.”* * And the arbitrator proceeds to state, — “ Nous sommes d’avis, qu’il conviendra d’adopter pour limite de deux atas une ligne tiree,” &c.f Now, let our readers observe, how strongly marked was the intention of the parties to the treaties of 1814 and 1827 — that the decision, [translation.] * That the nature of difference, and the stipulations, loose and not sufficiently determined at the treaty of 1783 ; not allowing to judge the one or the other of these races, from the one of these said parties, without offending the princi- ples of the law and justice towards the other. f We are of opinion, that he will agree to adopt measures for the limit of one race extracted, &c. 266 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL when given, should be final and conclusive; how greatly it was the interest of each country, looking beyond the lesser and mere temporary interests of the day, that a decision should be authoritatively pronounced, agreed to, and car- ried into effect. This desire is in conformity with the principles laid down by Franklin and Adams in 1783, and is in conformity likewise with the acts of the parties to the convention of amity in 1794. To us it would undoubtedly appear, that the spirit and the letter of the obligations contract- ed, required immediate adoption of the terms of the award of the king of the Netherlands. It must be remembered, that this decision im- posed upon England a much larger sacrifice than that required from the United States ; in- deed, above three-fifths of the disputed terri- tory were awarded to the latter. The conduct of the British government was frank and ho- nourable. The award of the king of the Netherlands bore date, 10th January 1831. On the 9th of 1 ebruary, Lord Palmerston informed the Bri- tish minister at Washington, “ that whatever might be the sentiments or wishes of His Ma- jesty on some of the points embraced in the award ; His Majesty has not hesitated to ac- account of new-brunswick. 267 quiesce in that decision, in fulfilment of the ob- ligations which His Majesty considers himself to have contracted by the terms of the conven- tion ; and His Majesty is persuaded, that such will be the course adopted by the government of the United States.” It is very much to he regretted, that these expectations were not realized, but on the con- trary, and that in consequence of difficulties. We shall pass over the appointment of Mr Preble, who was described in the message to Con- gress, in December 1831, from which appoint- ment, difficulties arose, the explanation of which we shall not here mention, but observe, that to the American, these transactions must read the useful lesson of mistrust with respect to the conduct and pretensions of its border popula- tion. Whilst firm in their resolve that the people of Maine should not suffer wrong, the United States should he equally resolute to prevent them from committing injustice ; above all, the great American community should re- ject those counsels which may lead to war; a lesson will also be read with profit to Eng- land by the same events. They must learn to discriminate between the imprudent acts, and unreasonable complaints of a few borderers, and the feelings and the determination of a 268 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL great people. Nequis simam pacem justissimo hello antefero , — is an admission which neither England nor the United States is called upon to make ; but each should be prepared to act upon the principle, that any sacrifice which does not compromise national honour and indepen- dence, should be made, in order to avert that worst of all calamities to England, to America, and to the civilized world — a contest between two kindred nations. If American cities, along the coasts, were at- tracted by our fleets, — if Canadian insurgents were aided by border sympathizers, — if the for- midable danger which results from a slave po- pulation of two millions, were hurried to a cri- sis, — if the trade of both countries were for- cibly interrupted, it would but be a slight com- pensation, and it would be no excuse to either party, if the result were to secure the posses- sion of a given number of square miles, north or south of the river of St John, and the es- tablishment of the line of boundary contended for by one or other of the disputants. But we go farther ; for we much doubt whether the va- lue of the State of Maine, or province of New- Brunswick, would be to either country an equi- valent for the jealousy and the hatred, as well as the destruction of property, and the check t account of new-brcnswick. 269 to all improvement, which must be the result of war. If this calamity has as yet been fortu- nately averted, we cannot help thinking that much is owing to the good sense and discretion manifested by the governor of New Brunswick, and the General commanding the troops of the United States. Nothing can he more gratifying than the good feeling manifested on both sides in this military correspondence, which contrasts most favourably with the more polemical tone of the documents proceeding from too many of the civil authorities. Very just and impressive are the observations of the Marquis of Normanby, in his dispatch to Sir John Harvey, of 16th May 1839, — “ The correspondence between you and the Secretary of State, is honourable alike to you and to him. It is gratifying to observe, that the feelings of personal esteem which were established between General Scott and yourself, when formerly opposed to each other in the field, should, after the lapse of so many years, have enabled you both to concur in averting from your respective countries all the horrors of war.” The peace of the American continent should, however, rest on a firmer foundation than the personal character of any two men, however 270 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL discreet and generous. The President, in his message of 1837, stated, “ that time has brought a condition of affairs, in which the true inte- rests of both countries imperatively require, that the question shall be set at rest.” This is still more true in 1840, than at the date of this message. That the territory in dispute can be of no real importance to Maine, in a political point of view, is evident from the readiness manifested in 1832, to make the cession to the general government, on obtaining a pecuniary indemnity. To England, it is not for 10,000 square miles of territory that the controversy is maintained, but to secure freedom of inter- course between Fredericton and Quebec. This is a national object to us ; it is a most impor- tant object to America also ; for if the adjust- ment is not made, there can be no doubt but that future causes of dissension must arise. In concluding these remarks on the Boundary Question, I would here observe, that the sur- vey and demarcation of the boundary between the United States and the British Provinces of New-Brunswick and Canada, as defined by the treaty of Washington, have been advanced the past year (1841) with much industry and suc- cess. The commissioners, Messrs Featherston and Mudge, and the scientific corps, on the ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 271 part of both governments, (the latter composed chiefly of military engineers of the two services, who are graduates of the Natural Military Schools of Westpoint and Woolwich) have co- operated in the task committed to them, with great harmony. No controversy nor misunder- standing of any moment has arisen to that de- scribed in the treaty ; and it is not at all pro- bable that any doubt or difference of opinion can arise in the minds of the commissioners re- specting the remainder of the line to be maiked. The whole is clearly defined by the treaty, and both countries are represented in their commis- sioners, by intelligent, frank, and liberal-minded gentlemen, who are above any petty cavil in the discharge of their important duties. The boundary has already been surveyed, and marked in such a way as to define the limits of jurisdiction of the respective governments, at the Monument, at the source of the river St Croix, and at the out-let of LakePokenagamook, on the river St Francis. No dispute as to the right of jurisdiction can therefore hereafter arise upon this important portion of our fron- tier. It embraces the whole of the Madawaska settlement, which is by far the most populous portion of the line, until it reaches the fi on- tiers of Vermont and New- York. Monuments 272 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL of cast-iron have been erected through the whole of the line, at a distance of a mile apart. The termini of the straight line between the out-let of the Lake of Pokenagamook, and the north-west branch of the St John, have been determined astronomically in lat. and Ion., and the greater part of the river of the St John, above the mouth of the St Francis, has been also accurately surveyed. The whole extent of the line to be run under the treaty, from the source of St Croix, around the State of Maine, along the northern line of Vermont, New Hampshire, and New York, is 950 miles in extent. The commissioners have surveyed the whole line as laid down by the treaty. They have to clear out a track thirty feet wide, making a vista through the forest, to survey all the islands in the St John’s River, — to sound the channel of the river — to apportion the several islands to the two nations, and to make maps of the whole line. Cast-iron monu- ments, six feet long, half in and half out of the ground, with appropriate inscriptions, are to be placed along the line a mile apart, and as much oftener as a stream crosses the line. The line has been completed in this manner from the river St Croix to Lake Bohenagamook, a dis- tance of over two hundred miles, at an expense ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 273 of 23,000 dollars, and it will require 75,000 dollars more to complete it. The commissioner and his party have worked this last summer, (1843) five months on the line. His party con- consisted of one principal commissioner, five to- pographical engineers (officers U.S.A.) three civil engineers, and one hundred men. The British had one commissioner (Col. Est court) three officers of the Boyal Engineers, two civil engineers, a company of Sappers and Miners, acting as assistant engineers, besides labourers. The work at present is suspended for want of an appropriation. EXTENT OF THE BRITISH TERRITORY, The British territory in North America, is estimated to contain 2,369,000 square miles. Including the Indian countries, it extends from 42° to 47° N. lat., and from 55° 30' to 141° W . long. Its length from Cape Charles to the North Pacific is 3500 miles ; and its length from Barrow’s Strait to the Missouri territory is 2000 miles. The white population, in 1836, amounted to about one million and a-half. The following are its chief divisions : — Hud- son’s Bay territories, including Labrador, Up- 274 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL per Canada, Lower Canada, New-Brunswick, Nova Scotia. The islands are — Newfoundland, Cape Breton, Prince Edward, Bermudas, An- ticosti, Southampton, North Georgian Islands. What’s deeper than the boundless sea, Where plunge the finny world ? More dreadful than the belching crash From Etna’s entrail’s hurl’d ? — Revenge. What’s softer that the cygnet’s down — Or dew upon the rose — Or changing tissue of the west At evening’s peaceful close ? — Pity. What’s more impetuous than the rage That sweeps Nigara’s surge ? More sure to push the victims on, That loiter near its verge ? — Anger. What’s milder than the gentle touch Of Zephyr’s kindly blow ? Or lake reflected Cynthia’s orb Beneath its surface shewn ? — Religion. POETRY. ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 275 What’s more bitter far than gall, Or wormwood’s loathsome blade ? More poisonous than the fang of asps, Or Upaz baleful shade ? — Envy. What’s truer than the magnet’s aim, To north so steady borne ? That quiet rests when undisturb’d, That trembles when it’s torn ? — Friendship. What wilder than the timid deer, That bounds the leafy lair ? Or proud fledged ospray’s boldest flight, Along the yielding air ? — Fancy. What’s broader than the starry cope, Or than unbounded space ? Or more expansive than the air, On which is left no trace ? More bright than yon resplendent sun, With wide prolific rays ; Pervading more the cheerless heart, Than He, the argent day? — Charity. — C. W . A. Hail ! to thee New-Brunswick ! Thou cherish’d land of ours ; Our sons are like the granite rocks — Our daughters like the flowers. 276 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL The land of rock, and mount, and glen, Of noble streams that sweep Through y allies rich with verdure, In gladness to the deep. The towering spruce, and ancient pine, Our noble forest bear, The maple bough, its blossoms, Flings on the scented air. No despot monarch wrings our toil, Or rends its fruit away ; The flocks upon our own green hills Secure from plunder stray. We quail to none — of none we crave — Or bend the servile knee ; The life-blood that our fathers gave, Still warms the firm and free. Free as the white gull spreads her wings, We own no tyrant’s rod — No Sovereign, but our youthful Queen ! Our country and our God ! — C. W. A. ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 277 RELIGION SUPREME. Victor, what avails the wreath That erst entwined thy brow ? Alas ! these flowers no longer breathe, For death hath laid them low. And what avails the storied urn That blazons forth thy fame ? That sculptur’d vase to dust shall turn — Oblivion blot thy name. What, too, avails those scars so deep, Received in battle fray ? They’re proofs of valour ! Time shall sweep Thy valour’s proofs away ! And what avails the minstrel’s song, That sounds thy praises forth ? The minstrel’s head shall rest ere long, Upon the lap of earth. Avarice, what avails thy dreams Of happiness in gold ? Thy funeral torch already gleams — Thy days on earth are told. 278 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL What now avails the hoarded wealth ? Is it with thee inurned ? — No — “ Naked from the earth yon came, And naked have returned.” Beauty ! what avails the rose That decks thy dimpl’d cheek ? Age on thy head shall strew his snows, And death his vengeance wreak. And what avails thy form so fair, Or eyes so dazzling bright ? That form shall waste in sullen care — Those suns shall set in night. But, blest Religion, much avails Thy hope of bliss in heaven ; For though thy barque by adverse gales On death’s dark shore be driven, Still thou canst smile ! thy steady eye Can pierce the cheerless gloom, And view through dark futurity, The day-spring of the tomb. — C. W. A. ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 279 PEACE. See where she stoops from yonder snowy cloud, Rich sun-light streaming from her wavingwings ; Hark to the Pceans of the leaping crowd, Who throng to grasp the priceless gifts she brings, — Where’er she sets her foot, sweet verdure springs. Scarce wins the reaper thro’ the bending grain, Thick to the vine the cluster’d fruitage clings ; Glad sings the peasant to the groaning wain, And to the lip of love bright smile comes again. r» ACCOUNT OF NEW-B RUNS WICK. 281 APPENDIX. In New-Brunswick, besides coal and iron, there are copper, tin, lead, zinc, and manganese, which should claim some attention, and although but small quanti- ties of the precious metals have been found, several of the most beautiful gems have been discovered in this, and the adjoining Province, (Nova Scotia.) In the mineral kingdom lie the hidden properties of mag- netism and electricity, with all those chemical pheno- mena now so well known, but whose true causes are but imperfectly understood. The former guides the wandering mariner over the pathless ocean, and the latter delights us by its extraordinary effects. A com- bination of these two properties is now directed, so as to bo made obedient to the human will, and, from a knowledge of their laws, a power has been obtained similar to that produced by steam. In all these, the design, wisdom, and beneficence of an intelligent Ar- chitect are displayed in a manner so nicely adapted to human comprehension, that none who inquires into them, can forbear to acknowledge the power and good- ness of their Creator. 282 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL It would be in vain to attempt an enumeration of all the different mineral substances which have proved useful to mankind — their uses are as wide as the field from whence they are taken, and the welfare of any country must, in a great measure, depend upon the native riches contained in its rocks, and success can only attend that industry which is devoted to the legi- timate objects of national wealth and dependence. It should be here remarked, that all the iron, cop- per, lead, tin, zinc, and manganese, and other metals also used by the inhabitants of this Province, are im- ported directly from Great Britain, or some foreign port. Most of those metals exist in the country, and might be manufactured at a cheaper rate than they can be purchased at, and conveyed from any other place. The large quantities of timber shipped annually from the Province, are insufficient to meet the amount of imposts, and the country sends abroad an article which other countries have not, to purchase articles which she possesses. The result of such an economy must be readily perceived, and if not remedied by calling forth her own mineral supplies, must terminate greatly to the disadvantage of the colony. Were the coal raised, and the iron and copper manu- factured in the Province in a sufficient quantity .tor supply its own wants, then the amount of these neces- sary articles would be saved to the country — the re- ward to honest industry would be certain, and emi- gration would be encouraged. But the more imme- diate means of supply, namely, timber and deals, are ACCOUNT OF NEW-BRUNSWICK. 283 now required to balance with the importations, and when these means fail, (and fail they will in time) and great loss has been sustained, will every object capable of producing relief be resorted to ; whereas, had they been used at an earlier day, the general prosperity would have been as steady as it now may be great. The histories of ancient and modern nations shew how much the civilization and happiness of mankind rest upon national resources, and the fate of empires depend upon those stores of mineral matter laid up in the earth's vast warehouse ; these stores shew their in- tended use, and the care and foresight of a superintend- ing Power, which has abundantly provided for all the wants of the human family. Like Nova Scotia, New-Brunswick possesses the greatest riches of the mineral kingdom ; but while all the best resources of the former are held in durance by an association whose interest is best supported by a partial and limited developement of her mines, the latter is free from that embarrassment, and her inha- bitants can participate in the benefits to be derived from them. While the mines and minerals of Nova Scotia are placed beyond the reach of provincial legis- lation, those of New-Brunswick can be rendered pro- fitable to the revenue and to the people. Along the broken and desolate district, extending from the mountains of the Nerepis to the American boundary, the feldspathic, and hornblende trap forms lofty, abrupt, and often inaccessible cliffs; and the sublime appearance of this chain of mountains, ad- mirably displays the ingenious character of its rocks. 284 HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL. &C. The remains of ancient craters that have out-lived the destructive operations of the elements, are still visible, and fill the mind with the highest veneration. This mountain scenery is rendered still more wild by the depth and silence of its valleys, and the succession of pyramid after pyramid, rising as far in the distance as the eye can behold ; their bright tops seen glittering in the mid-day sun, seem like beacons hung over -the dark ravines, and winding hollows, mantled with the thickest spruce, and inhabited only by the sullen bear and bounding deer. FINIS, t