-
|ººl is ºl.
nº lº ºn a bildern neºst ºes on eibune.
M A Nº.
ºn in allen ºn.
º

WWM
§"gó15 014
––––––---- ~~i? –
#!º fºggy !ººl-lºud
III] Hºllº . | Sºº-yº: } Tºlhº
º
* Nºrts W | ëp }//
- ~ *= 30 - -
LIBRARYº-Y OF THIE
My * *A*m'r -
j|univººligºn
Ž vºt: & S \ . - st -
= R / & §. • **
-s
H#
3
H
-

ºl
º
lº- APPENDIX
sºw
PAV()|{A\|A ().
FROM
MAY ENCE TO COL()(; NE
BY
FREDERICK HERCHENHEIN.
NEWEST EDITION
OERNAMENTED WITH NUMEROUS VIEWS
TAKEN ON THE SPOT,
B E SID ES
|\|\\ 0F THE STATES OF THE MONI (ELIBRAIF|| ||\ 0 || ||\|\|| ||\|\,
BOTH OF ANCIENT AND MODERN TIMES.
-
eco-
PRO PERTY OF THE PUBLISHER.
DAVID KAPP,
B O O K S E L L E R AND PUBLISHE R.
MAVENUE,
eX 9
To be had of the Publisher and of all respectable Booksellers at home and abroad.




TYA) - \
Şo |
. Tº"/4
H5A.
A {{** 4-6
jº (-
IMayence, printed by H. Friclzarts.
A.W.W
- « »
ºt} . . . 3.
“…" A § i ś , ' , "...t #X.
#1. C. §v, * *
* ‘gº ** s
| \ . . . . .
1 * : * .. Yº, e - { \, . . . . “. w
{
FIRST PART
From Mayence to Coblence.
Mayence, the Capital of the Grand-Duchy of Hessia, on the left bank of the Rhine,
picturesquely environed by an amphitheatre of undulating heights, just opposite the point,
where this mighty river receives the turbid waters of the Maine. The imposant pile of the
Cathedral, the isolated groups of churches and other large public or private buildings, the
commanding aspect of the Citadel, and the far-stretching girdle of massive fortifications, address
themselves at once to the eye and to the imagination. The breadth (upwards of 2100 feet) of
the majestic and here slightly bending stream, studded with verdant islets; the bold summits
and picturesque outlines of the neighbouring Taunus range; the luxuriant and swelling hills
which rise as it were to meet it, on the one hand, and the extensive plain, which, on the other,
stretches from the Maine to the Rhine, afford a succession of prospects, equally pleasing
and diversified.
The origin of Mayence is lost in the haze of antiquity. At a spot already settled on by
the natives, Drusus, in the year 13 before our era, erected a stronghold which at first was
called Gensonia or Gensoniacum, but which subsequently received the name of Moguntiacum.
The Roman fortress, however, occupied but a very small portion of the ground covered by the
later city. It was situated on the ridge of the hill that rises on the south-west of the town,
and its north-eastern rampart intersected the most elevated portion of the present city.
Both the fort and town of Moguntiacum, which latter seems to have been most flourishing
during the third and fourth centuries of our era, were º destroyed in 350 by the Ale-
manni, and a hundred years later by the Huns under Attila. Its reconstruction began about the
year 534, and was carried on from 622 with greater energy by Dagobert I. In 712 the town
was provided with walls. On becoming subject to the Archbishop Electors, Mayence had, from
973, several sieges and captures to endure. That by which in more recent times it suffered
most, was the siege of 1793, during which the Cathedral and many other buildings were burnt
to ground. The French had, under Custine, occupied Mayence on the 21st Oct. 1792, but were
obliged to evacuate it on the 23rd July of the following year. On the 29th Dec. 1797, France
took possession of the town, and made it the capital of the department of the Donnersberg.
Town and fortress were surrendered to the Allies on the 4th May 1814. The former was sub-
sequently incorporated with the Grand-Duchy of Hessia Darmstadt and formed the chief town
of the province of Rhenish Hessia; but the latter, together with Castel and the surrounding
fortifications, was constituted a fortress of the German Confederation. In the year 1866 after
the dissolution of the German Confederation, Mayence was incorporated to Prussia and became
a prussian fortress, conserving its former politic position. g
Mayence has now with its appurtenances 48,000 inhabitants and a garrison of 8000 Prussians.
The chief Curiosities are: The Cathedral, which had been founded in the eight century,
was re-constructed from 978 to 1009 by Willigis the first Elector of Mayence, and dedicated by
him to St. Martin. Several times destroyed by fire and in 1793 demolished by a bombardment,
it was not till 1803 that this church assumed its present appearance. No church in Germany
contains as many monuments and epitaphs as this. As the chief monuments are to be men-
tioned: The Willigis and Adalbert gates of bronze, the six rows of historical monuments of
the former Archbishop Electors and other high ecclesiastical dignitaries; the epitaphs in the
two choirs, the baptismal font, the tomb of Fastradana (the consort of Charlemagne), the Memoria
and the Arch-way, together with the monumental statue, by Schwanthaler, erected in 1842 in
memory of Henry von Meissen, surnamed Frauenlob ; it represents a female figure in white
marble, depositing a wreath on the coffin of the bard. Frauenlob flourished and died in the
reign of the Elector Peter von Eichspalt, in the second decennium of the 14th century. The
cathedral-tower, 283 feet high, amply repays the trouble of ascending by the splendid view,
the spectator enjoys there. -
The other six churches with many monuments of former times.
The two new Synagogues may be considered as belonging to the finer tempels of modern
times in Germany. * *
. The new pleasure-grounds (neue Anlage), immediately opposite the mouth of the Maine,
surprising view, no similar in Germany. On the ground occupied by these gardens stood
4
formerly a Carthusian monastery and a country-seat of the Electors, termed the Favorite; both
were destroyed in 1793. On the site of the latter is now a house of refreshment and a Rhine-
Belvedere; the new iron-bridge for the railway, which unites in this place the two shores of
the Rhine, is worth of inspection; it has been constructed in the years 1860–62 after the plans
of Mr. Kramer, chief-ingeneer of the Hessian rail-way in the system of Mr. Pauli.
Buildings and monuments connected with the memory of Gutenberg; Johann zum Gens-
fleisch called Gutenberg, born at Mayence 1398, died 1468, invented at Mayence the art of
printing. 1450, in the house called Hof zum Jungen. In 1837 a monument of bronze modelled
by Thorwaldsen and cast by Crozatier in Paris was erected in his memory. The house, where
he was born, is the property of Mrssrs. Lauteren and sons; the brewing-house called zum Korb
was the first printing-office of Fust and Schöffer.
The market-hall for grain is the largest building of that kind in Germany. The ancient
Electoral palace containing a splendidly decorated hall (Akademiesaal), the Gallery of Pictures
the Town-Library and Museum. There stands also the astronomical clock by Pater Alexius, a
renowned masterpiece. The Theatre built in 1832. The monument of Schiller, erected 1862,
Schiller square.
Hotels: Rhenish Hotel, Holland Hotel, English Hotel (the owner is also wine-merchant)
and many others of the second rate.
Mayence has a free-port and new built quays, a considerable commerce with wine, many
factories in furnitures shoes. The factory for leather of Mrssrs. Michel, Mayer and Deninger
has a great reputation. The first General-Exhibition was at Mayence in the year 1842.
ayence is united by a bridge of boats, 2109 feet in length (a favourite walk of the
inhabitants on fine days) with the little Hessian town Castel belonging to the fortress. Castel
derives its name from the fort erected by Drusus to cover the passage of the river; it contains
nearly 4000 inhabitants, besides a garrison of 600 prussian .#.
Hotels: Hotel Barth, Taunus Hotel, Anker. In ancient times a stone-bridge crossed the
Rhine at this spot, built by the Romans, destroyed by the Franks and repaired under Charle-
magne by a superstructure of wood. The floating Rhine-mills are fastened near the sunken
piers of this bridge. The enlargement of the banks between Mayence-Rüdesheim, have already
begun at the bank at Mayence & shall be continued.
By the translocation of the fortifications on the north-west side, begun in 1873 the town
will be enlargened for of the double of its present extent; the establishment of the Central Hessian
railway-station is projected on this ground, as also a fixed iron bridge across the Rhine to
Biebrich to join with Wiesbaden. The conserve Manufacture for military use, is already built
in the neighbourhood, an imposing building. *
On the left side of the embouchure of the Maine is a fort, a little below the spot, on which
the Gustavus-Burg and in the time of the Romans a castellum, perhaps the munimentum Trajani,
formerly stood Below Castel are to be seen the works called Grand-Duke of Hessia and the
Peters-Au.
Biebrich, at about a league distance from Castel, composes together with Mosbach
a little town of 7000 inhabitants. The castle consists of two pavilions, one at either extremity,
between which is a rotunda, with a semi-circular flight of steps outside, besides a side-wing.
It was built at the first decennary of the last century and was till 1866 the residence of the
duke of Nassau.
Hotels: Rhenish Hotel, Belle Vue; European Hotel, Crown Hotel.
Wiesbaden, now belonging to Prussia, likewise owes its origin to a Roman colony.
The fort was situated on the so-called Heidenberg (heathen-mount), at the foot of which the
watering-place gradually developed itself out of the settlements of the aborigines. Wiesbaden
was formerly the capital of the Duchy and the winter residence of the duke of Nassau. Its
population amounts to more than 36,000 souls, and it contains many beautiful buildings, at the
head of which must be placed the former Ducal palace and the magnificent, Cursaal. The
ornamental grounds behind the Cursaal stretch out towards the Dieten-mill, a place of refresh-
ment, and combine variety with extent; they as well as the Colonnade-bazars on either side
of the William square offer various attractions to the travelling public. The muriatic-saline
water of the Wiesbaden thermal-springs, which is taken both internally and externally, issues
from the ground at a temperature of 144 to 158° Fahr. Worthy of observation are the Library,
the Museum, the collections of antiquities, pictures and objects of Natural history in the old
palace, William street; moreover, the Greek chapel containing the tomb of the late Duchess,
a Russian princess by birth; the Town-hall, the Government buildings and the Theatre; also
the hydropathic establishment at Nerothal. A monument is errected there in memory of the
soldiers of the 87 & 88 Pruss. Inf. regiment fallen in the war of 1870/71. The public gardens
there and on the Geissberg; the attractive point called the Platte, a hunting-castle, is somez
what more distant.
Hotels: Victoria Hotel, the Four Seasons and Eagle Hotel (Post).
Schierstein, a large village of 1500 inhabitants, contains several handsome country-
seats. This place was formerly the site of a Carolingian villa. That portion of the Rhine
country denominated the Rhine-gau, begins at the village of:
Nieder-Walluf, where there is a regular ferry to the opposite bank. The population
amounts to 1000 souls. An agreeable road leads from here in 2 hours to Schlangenbad, 900
feet above the level of the sea. This bathing-place has of late become more generally known
sby its salutary effect in the diseases of females, nervous complaints, etc. ln Schlangenbad are
everal bathing-houses and hotels.
5
Eltville or Elfeld, a little town of 2700 inhabitants, presents itself very picturesquely
on account of the Gothic towers of the old castle and church, and the family seats of the
Counts of Elz and those of Mr. Marix. Gutenberg, after his unfortunate law-suit, with Fust,
established here a printing-office from which in 1467— 1469 several works issued, which are now
exceedingly rare. There are a number of handsome country-houses all around. Above Eltville
lies the Grange of Steinheim, on the site of a village that disappeared during the Peasants'
war. Luther is said to have preached here under the great lime-tree before the Grange. Half
an hour's walk from Eltville lies the village of Kiedrich, overtopped by the lofty tower of the
ancient castle of Scharfenstein; adjoining the church is the chapel of St. Michael, which for
the purity of its Gothic style stands unrivalled. The Westphal-Au, an island upwards of a
mile in length, reaches from
Erbach to Hattenheim. The first-named borough is of considerable antiquity, contains
2000 inhabitants, an interesting old church and a seat of the Count of Westphalen. The Draeser-
hof between Eltville and Erbach formerly belonged to the Cistercian Abbey of Eberbach, situated
2'ſ miles from the Rhine, founded in 1130 and dissolved in 1806. In the neighbourhood, on an
elevated place has been errected the Lunatic Assylum, a large building. In the extensive cellars
of Eberbach are deposited the wines of the Ducal domains of Nassau, among which the adjacent
Steinberg, a vineyard of 35 acres, occupies the first place.
Hattenheim, an ancient little town of more than a thousand inhabitants, possesses
several old buildings and pretty country-seats. The highly esteemed Rhine-wine called Marco-
brunner grows in the neighbourhood. It has received its name from a well (Brunnen) in the
vicinity, called the Markbrunnen (boundary-well). On the mountain lies the considerable village
of Halgarten, behind which peer aloft the horns of one of the principal summits of the Rhine-
gau spur of the Taunus.
Oestrich, a borough with 2000 inhabitants, displays several charming country-houses.
The Grafen-Au, the place of jurisdiction for the whole country, was in the 13th century swallowed
up by the Rhine. On the left bank of the river we may observe the little towns of Nieder-
and Ober-Ingelheim, which are almost connected. The former contains 3000, the latter 13100
inhabitants. In Nieder-Ingelheim stood in ancient times the Saal or Palace of Charlemagne
(born 742, died at Aix-la-Chapelle 28th January 814). The ruins have been turned to account
in the construction of some agricultural buildings, on which a tablet of red sandstone bears an
interesting historical description. The present protestant church was, in part, the palace-
chapel, which in the 12th and 14th centuries was considerably enlarged. It contains a very
remarkable old tombstone either of the Empress Hildegard or of the princess Emma, daughter
to Charlemagne. This church is connected with the palace by a subterraneous passage. The
very ancient church of Ober-Ingelheim contains many historical monuments and interesting
windows of stained glass. At the Town-Hall the tournament-saddle of Charlemagne is shown.
Winkel, with 2000 inhabitants, is said to derive its name from Vini cella and to have
been a wine depôt of the Romans. Almost adjoining is Mittelheim, with the oldest chnrch of
the Rhinegau, built 1151, above Winkel, while below stands St. Bartholomew on the site of
the ancient village of Klingelmünde. A quarter of a league sidewards from Winkel lies the
castle of Wollraths, the property of the famly of Greifenklau; it is the only well-preserved
specimen existant in the Rhinegau, of the fortress-dwellings of by-gone ages. With the exception
of some weapons of the middle ages, the vast and dreary apartments offer nothing that is worthy
of notice. Behind Winkel rises the
Johannisberg. The castle of the same name is at the summit and was erected
on the site of a Benedictine-Abbey, which, founded in 1106, was dissolved in 1802. The
Johanuisberg, the wine produced there is famed far and wide, devolved in 1716 to Fulda,
in 4802 to Nassau-Orange, was in 1807 presented by Napoleon to Marshall Kellermann and
in 1816 bestowed as an Austrian fief on Prince Metternich. The view from the balcony of the
castle is one of the most beautiful. Sidewards, on the declivity of the mountain, is the village
of Johannisberg, with 1000 inhabitants. On the opposite bank. near 4 islets, may be seen the
hamlet of Sporkenheim with 115 inhabitants.
Geissenheim, a market-town containing 3000 inhabitants, presents itself with con-
siderable effect; one of its most conspicuous features being a restored church, constructed in
the Gothic style, with two new pointed towers. The place possesses a number of handsome
country-seats and a flourishiug wine-trade. Following the course of the Klingelbach, we arrive
at the ruins of the convent of Marienthal and on proceeding a short distance farther, at the
former Capuchin monastery • Nothgottess, at present a farm.
Eibingen, a village of 600 inhabitants, owes its origin, in the 12th century, to a nunnery
of this name. The remains of the building were used first as an establishement for military
invalids, and subsequently as a district-school and parsonage. — In the village of .
Kempten and Gaulsheim, on the left bank, as also in the more distant market-
town Gawalgesheim, a quantity of Roman antiquities have been discovered. . Kempten lies at
the foot of the Rochus mountain, on the summit of which stands the chapel of St. Roch, wither
a pilgrimage annually takes place in August.
Rüdesheim, a small town with 3500 inhabitants, possesses several mediaeval buildings,
and one of Roman origin, a large watch-tower, to with the name of Broemserburg was after-
wards given and which was really used as a castle during the middle ages. The low-roofed
Rittersaal (hall of Knights) together with a few small rooms, made habitable by the counts of
Ingelheim, are still to be seen in good preservation. An extensive view is to be had from the
top of the building. The Rüdesheimerberg and Hinterhaus belong to the first quality of Rhenish
6
wines. From here the Niederwald may be ascended in about */4 of an hour; the way lies
through 20 terraces of vineyards and leads up to the Temple, 720 feet above the Rhine, and
afterwards 120 feet higher to the x Rossel,“ an immitation ruin in the form of a tower. A monu-
ment, in memory of the war 1870/71 shall be errected on this spot; the construction of a
mountain-railway is also projected from Assmannshausen over the Niederwald. From both points
a remarkably extensive and magnificient view presents itself. When on the Rossel, the spec-
tator looks down perpendicularly on Ehrenfels, a picturesque and imposing ruin. It was erected
at the beginning of the thirteenth century by the Archbishop Siegfried of Mayence, and was
used by those Electors as a summer-palace. In 1669 it was destroyed by the French,
Bingen. Since the great fire of 1850, this town, with a population of 7000 inhabitants,
has very much improved in appearance. A ruin worth seeing is the Klopp, the remains of a
fortified place of some strength in the 30 years'war; it was destroyed towards the end of the
17th century and is said to have been erected on the foundations of a Roman stronghold. The
Emperor, Henry the Fourth, was imprisoned here for some time. There is no doubt that the
Romans constructed a bridge over the Nahe at the place occupied by the present one for in
the basement of the inn, called 'The Town of Creuznachº (Stadt Creuznach) there is still one
of the arches which is now used as a cellar. The Hessian and the Prussian frontier is in the
centre of the bridge. On the left bank of the Nahe are the remainders of the Convent of St.
Rupert, in which in the 12th century St. Hildegard resided. Bingen has a very frequented
weekly market and a considerable trade in wine, etc. In about half an hour the top of the
Rochusberg, 38.) feet high, may be reached, and the same period of time is requiside to ascend
the Elisenhöhe (Elisabeth-hill), 420 feet, 6n the other side of the Nahe. From both places the
prospect is charming. From Bingen it is but three leagues to Creuznach, a town with a popu-
lation of 13,000 souls, and celebrated for its saline baths. There are roads to it both on the
right and left banks of the Nahe. Near Creuznach the remains of a Roman fortification are
still visible. The adjacent salt-works of Theodor's and Carl's hall, the more distant Prussian
salt-works of Münster, the Ebernburg (lately restored) in the Bavarian Palatinate, the ruins
of the castle of Rheingrafenstein, situated on an immense isolated pinnacle of rock, and the
hill called the 20ans, all deserve to be visited.
Hotel Victoria, White Horse, Bellevue. Post, English Hotel.
Bingerloch. The course of the Rhine was at this spot formerly impeded by a ledge
of rock, that, with the exception of a narrow passage, stretched completely across the river.
This passage has gradually been widened to such an extent, that only a few isolated fragments
of rock remain. Before coming to the Bingerloch, we ebserve a ruinous tower, situated on a
small islet. This is the x Mausthurma (mouse-tower) and dates its construction from the same
period as the Ehrenfels. There is a tradition connected with it, which is entirely devoid of
historical foundation, in as much as the personage introduced, archbishop Hatto, lived, long
antecedent to the crection of this tower, which was neither more nor less than a toll-station.
Assmannshausen, a village of 900 inhabitants, well-known for its excellent red
wine, is the first place we find on the right bank below the Bingerloch. In the vicinity is a
warm mineral spring of 900 Fahr. Half a league above Assmannshausen lies the hamlet of
Aulhausen, embosemed in a deep glen and inhabited chiefly by potters. Close to it is the
former Cistercian nunnery of Marienhausen, now a farm building.
Rheinstein. This beautiful castle, 620 feet above the Rhine, was built by prince
Frederick of Prussia, in 1825–29, on the ruins of the ancient Waustsburg, which was destroyed
in 1698. It is certainly the most striking ornament of this picturesque region. The ascent
takes about ten minuts' easy walking. The castle contains a richly decorated Rittersaal, in
the style of the middle ages, and all the appartenments, with their contents, are in pcrfect keep-
ing with the predominant idea. Belonging to Rheinstein, but 170 feet higher, is a Swiss cottage,
hehind which are some ruins of the farm-buildings, appertaining to the ancient Waustsburg.
From this spot there is a most delightful view. On a neigbouring eminence are the vestige
of a Roman castellum. A castle on the other side of the Rossbach glen bears the name of
Druidenburg (Druids' castle).
Clemenzkirchen (St. Clement's). This fine old church has been restored in the ancient
style by the princess Frederick of Prussia. The front part of the building belongs to the 13th,
the hinder portion to the 15th century. This chapel is said to have been founded in commemo-
ration of the robber-knights of Sonneck, who were hanged by command of the Emperor Rudolph
of Habsburgh.
Trechtlingshausen, more properly Dreidingshausen or Dreigerichtshausen, a village of
700 inhabitants, indicates the side of the castrum Trajani, of which, however, no vestiges
remain. Several families of the place bear the names of Tullius, Marcillius etc. At the height
of 170 feet, may be seen in the vicinity the ruins of Reichenstein, incorrectly termed Falken-
stein. It is here, that the romantic glen of the Morgenbach debouches into the valley of the
Rhine. The perspective of the glen is closed by a mountain, called the Franzosenkopf (French-
man's head); 1700 feet in height. Sidewards, on the summit of a steep declivity of the Kanterich,
we behold the lofty watch-tower of the ancient castle of Sonneck. This ruin, the property of
the king of Prussia and his brothers, is to be rebuilt on the plan of a succession of terraces,
Opposite this spot, on the right bank of the Rhine is a perpendicular and wall-like rock, 1100
feet high, known as the precipice of the Demon Katerich.
Niederheimbach. A village consisting of a long row a houses, with a population of
750 souls. It is commanded by the ancient castle of Hoheneck (formerly belonging to Mayence),
at present called the Heimburg. Of the nunnery of Süsskirch only a single gable-end remains standing.
7
Lorch. This borough, of 2000 inhabitants, extends itself before and in the entrance of
the valley of the Wisper. For the most part rebuilt since the conflagration of 1842, its appear-
ance is meat and cherful. The church, which dates from the 12th century, contains several
monuments worthy of inspection, In the time of the Romans a village, named Lawreacum, is
said to have stood on this spot, The ruins of the mediaeval watch-tower of Nollich, above the
precipitous declivity, termed the Teufelsleiter (Devil's ladder) up which , Sir Hilgen of Lorch is
said to have mounted og horseback, - are reached in about */4 of an hour., Nollich owes its
origin to a watch-tower of the Romans. A little lower down, and towards the side, stood for-
merly the castle of Fürsteneck. The valley of the Wisper, and its ramifications contains several
mineral springs, besides the remains of Kammerberg, a hunting-castle of the Electors of Mayence,
and several other romantic ruins, more especially those of Sauerburg, Rheinberg and Waldeck.
Rheindiebach. Above this hamlet. with a population of 200 souls, towers the ruin of
Fürstenberg, one of the most picturesque on the borders of the Rhine. . This stronghold is
mentioned in the records of the 12th century. It was considered a fortification of great strength,
and was demolished by the French in 1689. It does not take more than eight minutes to ascend
this eminence, and the trouble is amply compensated by the beauty of the prospect.
Lorchhausen, a village with 550 inhabitants, 10 minutes' walk below Lorch. This
place is the boundary of the Rheingau; it produces an excellent red wine.
Bacharach. A small but ancient town, whose present population numbers but 2000 souls.
Several antiquaries affirm that the Ara of the Ubii stood here. The castle of Stahleck, at present
the property of H. M. the Queen of Prussia, vast even in its ruins, was the cradle of the
Counts Palatine, and, for longer or shorter periods, the abode of Conrad of Hohenstaufen,
Frederick Barbarossa, Frederick II., the Emperor Rupert and several other princes. Till the
time of Otto, surnamed the Illustrious, who in 1240 transfered his residence to Heidelberg, the
court-festivities of the Wittelsbachs were often held here. The castle seems to have been
exceedingly strong; the walls are not less than fourteen feet, in thickness. During the thirty
years' war this fortress was taken eight times, within a short interval, and in 1640 the interior
destroyed by fire; after having been restored to its original state, its existence as a stronghold
was effectually put an end to by the French, in 1680. The beautiful ruin of Stahlberg is about
a mile and a quarter from here. Close to the church of Bacharach is situated a similar edifice,
constructed in the purest Gothic style and dedicated to the youthful martyr St. Werner. Un-
fortunately the front portion has been pulled down and thus the whole transformed into a ruin.
The protestant church formerly, belonged to the Knight-Templars. It was built in the 10th
century and is in a very remarkable style. The wines of Bacharach are known by the name
of the neigbouring village of Steeg and were formerly more in request than at present. When
the waters of the Rhine are low, a rock resembling en altar emerges from the stream; it has
received the name of Elterustein, and in documents is termed Ara Bacchi, whence the appellation
of Bacharach. The slight vestiges of the nunnery of Fürstenthal are to be seen at the opening
of a narrow ravine. Through the rapids, termed the * Wilde Gefährt, we come to the
Pfalz, formerly Pfalzgrafenstein, opposite. Caub. This remarkable building, formerly a
toll-station, is situated on a rocky islet and is said to have been erected by the Emperor Louis
of Bavaria, in 1826. Although still habitable, this singular structure, of which the most strik-
ing feature is the lofty watch-tower, is at present willhout tenants. Dungeons cellars and a
very deep well are hewn out of the solid rock, and reach far below the surface of the river.
The Pfalz has obtained a sort of factitious celebrity by a report, that the Countesses Palatine
were accustomed to await their accouchment here, but the room which tradition has assigned
to them, is evidently nothing but an old guard-room. the dimensions of which are seven feet
by five. The central tower contains two dismal apartments, in earlier times used as state-
prisons. Almost opposite the Pfalz, and on the right bank, lies the little town of
- Caub, with 2500 inhabitants, at the foot of the steep hill, on a rocky projection of which
is situated the castle of Gutenfels. The town took its rise in the eighth century, and was the
property of the counts of Nüringen, a family that became extinct in the twelfth century. About
a hundred years later it devolved to the Pfalz, and in 1806 came into the possession of Nassau.
It was at this place, that on the 1st of January, 1814, Blücher, with his divisions, passed the
Rhine. There are excellent slate-carries in the vicinity. The ruins of the Gutenfels are reached
after an ascent of about, ten minutes. The castle dates from the early part of the middle ages,
and in the 14th and 15th centuries was known by the name of Kube. The tradition that the
Lady Beatrice or Guta of Falkenstein received here Richard of Cornwall, to whom she was
subsequently united, is utterly destitute of historical foundation. In 1805 this castle was still
inhabited and in good preservation; but Napoleon, on his passage up the Rhine having been
saluted with cannon-balls from its battlments, gave orders for its immediate demolition. It
belongs at present to Mr. Havel of Schierstein, who does his utmost to preserve the ruins from
farther decay. The Rhine assumes almost the appearance of a lake between Caub and
Oberwesel, the Vosalia or Vasavia of the Romans. This town, with its appurter-
ances, contains 3600 inhabitants. The first glance, makes us aware that the place must formerly
have been of importance; the ancient town-wall, 3475 feet in length and relieved from mono-
tonous uniformity by battlments, gates and turrets, presents a very picturesque aspect. The
most salient points are a beautiful church, build of red stone, and the embattled Zuckerthurm
at the upper end; and, at the lower extremity, the so-called Ochsenthurm. No less interesting
are: the bok-ground with St. Martin's church, Mount calvary, and the openings of the valleys
of Enghölle and Niederthal, in which an excellent wine grows. The mother of Alexander
Severus, the Empress Mamea, whose tomb is said to be in the town-moat, resided here for a
8
considerable period. The Frankish Palatium has disappeared, but the extensive castle of the
knights of Schönberg still exists. ... Oberwesel belonged to them till the thirteenth century, at
which epoch, the town purchased its freedom. The castle, which belongs to prince Albert of
Prussia, consists of two parts, one of which dates its construction from the 11th, and the other
from the 14th century: this latter portion, it is said, will be restored According to ancient
tradition, there once resided at Schönberg seven damsels, whose charms had been the cause
of many a bloody fray among their noble suitors, and, to punish them for their cruelty, the
haughty maidens were cast into the Rhine by a fairy, and transformed into an equal number
of rocks. At the foot of the Schönberg stands the church of Our Lady (Liebfraukirch), a
building in the purest Gothic style, erected by the Counts of Schönberg between 1307 and 1331,
and which has lately been renovated. The interior contains some excellent specimens of carv-
ing in wood, and a very old picture, painted on a gold ground; there are, besides, two mosaic
statues, composed of innumerable shells, a *Descent from the Crossº by Diepenbeck (Rubens'
best pupil) and diverse monuments of the Schönberg family. St. Werner's chapel, built in the
14th century, contains a representation of the youthful Werner's terrible martyrdom, which took
place on the 10th April 1287. Nummerous old walls, once evidently belonging to large and
massive buildings, but inclosing only empty spaces, furnish additional testimony of the former
greatness of Oberwesel.
The Lurelei, a rocky promontory on the right bank, projects boldly into the stream, as
if it wished to dam up the waters of the mighty river. Its name does not proceed from the
supernatural being that figures in the comparatively modern tradition, but from the peculiar
substance of the rock itself, which is composed of slauter Leig (nothing but slate). Round its
sharp angles the stream winds first to the left, then suddenly to the right; here there is a very
fine echo to which the attention of travellers is drawn by the firing of guns and blowing of a
horn Immediately below the Lurelei the fall of the river is so great as to produce a kind of
rapid, termed the Gewerr or Gewirr, and from this word some assert, that the town of St. Goar
has obtained its name.
St. Goarshausen, an inconsiderable place on the right bank, with a population of 1000
souls, is discovered at a sharp turn on the river, overtopped by the ruins of the Katz, or more
properly. of New Katzenellenbogen, the poperty of a Mr. de Lützow. The older part of the
town is not unlike an oblong fortification; the few streets are narrow and dark, and over the
gate of the town-hall there is a Hebrew inscription. The more modern part, formerly known
by the name of Neubrückhausen, is, on the contrary, an agreeable country-place. Here there
is one of the most romantic lateral valleys the Rhine can boast of; it is called the Swiss- or
Forstbach-valley (Schweizerthal) and is very much resorted to on account of its wild and rugged
scenery. In the immediate neighbourhood is the village of Patersberg, famous for its red wine.
Two miles and a half farther inland, lies the celebrated castle of Reichenberg; its architecture
is very peculiar, consisting of a series of vaulted tiers, which rest on massy columns. Thirty-
four years ago Reichenbach was used as a ducal District-Offce. In 1818 it was put up at
auction and purchased by Mr. Habel, a gentleman distinguished by his efforts for the preser-
vation of historical monuments. The castle of Reichenberg was built in 1284 by Count William I.
of Katzenellenbogen. -
St. Goar, on the left bank, with a population of 1700 souls, is reported to owe its
origin to the saint thus named, who in 575, settled here for the purpose of inculcating the doc-
trines of Christianity. The cell once inhabited by the holy man, became in process of time a
church of pilgrimage, out of the ruins of which the present protestant church arose in 1469;
in it there are several monuments not devoid of interest. The salmon-fishery at this place is
no longer so productive as formerly. A strange custom once existed here for travellers to have
their heads thrust into a sort of collar, from which x durance viles they were released on
paying a fine. This took place so late as in the last century, but the collar in question, which
stood near the river-crane, is no longer visible. As remarkable characteristics of the surround-
ing population, we may notice the woodland fairs (Waldmärkte) and weddings in that mountainous
district, termed the Hunsrück. The Grindelbach valley, below St. Goar, is worth visiting. After
running a distance of 2% miles, it divides into two branches at the seventh mill. Above this
valley may be seen the ruins of the fortress of Rheinfels, erected by Diether III. of Katzen-
ellenbogen in 1245. In ancient times, a Roman fortification and afterwards a convent, called
Mattenberg, are said to have occupied this site. In 1235 and 1256 the fortress was besieged
during fourteen months by the troops of the Confederated Rhenish Cities: in this period it had
to withstand no less than 40 assaults, which were all successfull repelled. Still more cele-
brated is the siege under Marshal Tallard in 1692, at the head of 28,000 men; less creditable,
however, the surrender in 1792 to the troops of the Empire, and the same may be said of the
surrender of 1794 to the forces of the French Republic, by whom Rheinfels was eventually blown
up. This very, extensive ruin has been purchased by the Prince of Prussia.
Wellmich, a very ancient village of 300 inhabitants. On the mountain that rises above
it, is the picturesque pile, termed the Maus, properly Thurmberg or Deurenburg. It was con-
structed by Archbishop Bohemund of Treves, and by him named Peterseck. Kuno of Falken-
stein died in this castle after his abdication, in the year 1388. Near Ehrenthal, commonly called
Ehrenthaler, copper, silver, lead, marble and slate are found. The mine-house is worth seeing.
Hirzenach, on the left bank, is a village with 700 inhabitants, and formerly possessed
a priory, the buildings of which still remain. Immediately behind the church is a narrow valley
that stretches towards Rheinberg. . After passing a bend of the river we come to the village
of Nieder-Kestert, on the right bank; a little farther, on the left, lies
9
Salzig, a pleasing village of 1000 inhabitants; the country around seems to be one im-
mense cherry-orchard. The place is famous for its fruit, which, in average seasons, is sent
down to Cologne to the amount of more than 6000 Pr. Dollars. In the Salzborn valley, behind
the village, there is a salt-spring, which, however is turned to no account. On the opposite
side of the river is Bornhofen, anciently a Capuchin Monastery and of late much frequented
as a place of pilgrimage. The church dates from the 13th century, but the convent was not
added till 1679. The latter was dissolved in 1803. To the south of this spot, on a lofty
eminence are the ruins of the castles of Sternberg and Liebenstein, called the two Brotherse
The first of these was the residence of a family, descended from the Bolanden. One of the
most interesting traditions of the Rhine is connected with these strongholds. A beautiful Greek
girl set the brothers at variance, and they both died childless. Sternberg was built in the 12th,
and destroyed in the 17th century. Liebenstein is of less ancient date.
Kamp, a borough possessing a population of 1300 inhabitants, is said to have taken its
rise from the summer encapement of a Roman army. Surrounded by splendid avenues of wal-
nut-trees, the place has a very inviting appearance. From Kamp there is a short cut to Brau-
bach, which goes over the Leiswald and passes close the castle of Liebeneck.
Boppard, a town containing, with its appurtenances, more than 5500 inhabitants, is
most picturesquely situated on the left bank. Particularly conspicuous are the ancient castle
(formerly belong to Treves), the projecting turrets and gates of the town-wall the parochial
church with its two towers, the churches of the Carmelitesand Franciscans, the former nunnery
of Marienberg, and the monastery of St. Martin. The first glance suffices to show, that the place
must at one time have been much more important than at present. The there circular walls
indicate that, during the course of the middle ages, the town was several times enlarged. Under
the Romans, there was here a fortified place, Baudobriga, the limits of which are still to be
traced near one of the walls. Of the Palatium of the Frankish Kings only the foundations still
remain. The period of Boppard's greatest prosperity was during its existence as an imperial
city. Its prosperity visibly declined from the time when, by an act of usurpation, the town
fell into the power of Trewes, and when Archbishop John of Baden in 1495 again took it by
storm. The parochial church, built in the 12th century and in the Byzantine style, exhibits but
little that is remarkable; but the church of St. Severin; which belongs to the Carmelite mona-
stery, contains an Idol of great antiquity. The pointed gables and old-fashioned frame-work
of the houses would-give to Boppard a quaint and not uniteresting aspect, did not the narrow-
ness of its streets produce an air of gloominess. A few minutes' walk beyond and above the
town is situated the former convent of Marienberg, founded in 1123 by the citizens and nobility
of Boppard. Having been burnt down in 1734, it was reconstructed in a handsomer style. In
1803 the conventual establishment was dissolved, and in the succeeding year the bnilding was
fitted up as a cotton-mill, and at a latter period the chapel was removed. In 1822 it was
occupied by an eductional Institution for young ladies, and this has, since 1839, made way for
an excellently conducted cold-water-cure Etablishment. A second institution of this description
is situated below the town. It is called Mühlbad, and immediately behind it, is the opening of
a valley which in 3 hours leads the Brodenbach on the Moselle. A hill, which bears the name
of the *Old Castle, though there is no vestige of any ruins upon it, may be ascended from
Mühlbad in 25 minutes. As the summit is 880 feet above the Rhine, the view is one of the
most charming in the neighbourhood. About a mile and a half from the town is the Kreuz-
berg, on which is a chapel of pilgrimage; this point well deserves a visite, so does also the
hermitage. Brudermichelsloch, which has been fitted up for dowches-baths. Opposite Boppard
lies the village of
Filsen, in all probability, more correctly Felsen, with 500 inhabitants. At this spot the
bend of the Rhine is so great, that its course is, for a short distance, completely reversed.
Over a mountain, called the Jacobsberg, on the left bank, there is a short cut to the little
town of Rhens. On the top of the mountain is the farm of the same name, formerly belong-
ing to the Jesuits; to the right we see the castle of Liebeneck, Between Filsen and Osterspai,
the country is one continuous orchard of fruit-trees. At the entrance of a grassy dell a spring
of acidulous waters gushes forth; it is called the Dinkholder spring. On the opposite bank are
to be seen Oberspai and Niederspai; villages of 700 and 400 souls.
Braubach, on the right bank, possesses several smelting-houses for lead and silver, be-
sides mineral springs, and various mills. The place is very ancient, having existed already
in the 9th century; in 1288 it obtained the privileges of a free city. At a later period it de-
volved to the Palatinate. In 1437 the castle of Braubach changed this appelation to that of
the Marksburg, from the circumstance of a chapel therein having been delicated to St. Mark
in the year mentioned. The fortress is at present employed as a state-prison. Its elevation
above the Rhine is 480 feet. The interior is in the same condition as during the 16th century.
The dungeon in which the Emperor Henry IV. is said to have been confined, is exceedingly
small and provided only with one little, strongly grated window. The apartments intended
for, prisoners of state, are, , however, more commodious. On going up to the castle, the
visitor passes by St. Martin's chapel, situated on a commanding eminence, and where, about
1242, courts of justice used to be held. The streets of Braubach are crooked and gloomy;
the population is above 1700 souls. From here there is a road to Ems, which is about five
miles distant
Rhens, an ancient little town, having been, already in 660 a dependency of the Electorate
of Cologne, situated on the left bank and possessing 1600 inhabitants. The place has an an-
tiquated and not extactly prepossessing appearance, yet the Gothic church on the height above
10
the town is not without its effect, which is, moreover, enhanced by the loftiness of the moun-
tains (800–900 feet), the openings of the numerous valleys, and by the splendid walnut-treer
that frame in the whole. But the most remarkable object of this part of the country is the ancient
Rönigsstuhl, the construction of which commenced in 1338 and was terminated in 1340.
Renovated in 1624, it was in 1798 destroyed by the French, and in 1843 rebuilt on the old
foundations, and according to the former plan, by the King of Prussia. It is situated about
a thousand paces below Rhens, not far from the high-road leading to Coblence, and, supported by
five pillars, forms an Octagon, which is ascended by means of fourteen steps. Judging by
documentary evidence, it does not appear that any other election than that of Charles IV. took
place here. Opposite, on the right bank, stands the Chapel of St. Mary (Marienkapelle), erected
in the 14th century; here it was, that the Electoral Princes assembled on the 20th August
i. . order to depose the Emperor Wenzel or Wenceslas. On the same side lies the little
OWIl Of.
Oberlahnstein. It contains above 4000 inhabitants; is surrounded with high walls,
strengthened at intervals by towers of various forms, and possesses an old castle, dating from
1894 and formerly belonging to the Elector of Mayence. A little lower down, on the opposite
bank of the river, may be seen, towering over the tolerably long row of houses which com-
pose the village Capellen, the castle of, ~.
e Stolzenfels, 260 feet above the level of the Rhine, and at present the property of the
King of Prussia. The name of this fortress, which from time to time was used by the Electors
of Treves as a summer residence, appears in documents of 1242. The castle obtained a certain
degree of notoriety by the pursuits of Archbishop Werner, who here devoted himself to the
study of Alchemy and hermetical science. In 1688 the castle was dismantled by the French,
and in 1802 made over to the town fo Coblence, which in 1823 presented the ruin to ihe then
Crown-prince of Prussia. This ancient edifice has since been restored in the style of the middle-
ages, with º taste and at a vast expence. In addition to the royal apartments and those
appropriated to His Majesty's guests, and their suites, the castle contains a large Rittersaal,
the St. John's saloon decorated with beautiful fresco paintings, the Summer and the Winter halls,
etc. etc. The building has been enlarged towards the front by the erection of a chapel, modelled
on that of St Werner at Bacharach, and surmounted by two Gothic pointed towers. The
collection of arms, antiquities, and objects of art, belonging to the middle ages, is exceedingly
rich. Stolzenfels, certainly one of the most beautiful castles on the Rhine, was also visited by
H. M. Queen Victoria of England and H. R. H. Prince Albert, on their voyage along the
Rhine in 1845. The prospect from the battlments of Stolzenfels is magnificient, nor ought
the stranger to neglect visiting the serpentine pleasure-grounds that encompasses the castle, or
to omit seeing the remains of a Roman line of defence at the so-called Schällerhof, situated
on the ridge of the mountain and distant from the castle nearly 2 miles. A winding road leads
by the *Hermitages (Klause) and over a handsome viaduct to the village of Capellen, contain-
ing 450 inhabitants, and where from time to time a number of Roman antiquities have been
dug up. ºppºsite Capellen and somewhat above the point of confluence of the Lahn with the
Rhine stands. -
Niederlahnstein, a borough of 2400 inhabitants, situated on the new lower road
leading from Coblence to Ems. This place, which, with the exception of a few antiquated
buildings, has nothing remarkable to show, appears in earlier times to have extended itself
more towards the Rhine. In this direction, the remains of ancient walls are still met with,
and an avenue of fine trees brings us to
St. John's Church, situated on the point of the angle formed by the Lahn and Rhine.
This edifice, which evidently belongs to the 11th century, was cannonaded by the French in
1798 and has since lain in ruins. Some years ago the hinder and smaller tower, which was a
very fine one, fell in; the larger tower, however, constructed in the 15th century, is still stand-
ing. On one side of Niederlahnstein rises on a lofty eminence the ruin of Lahneck. The castle
was erected in the 12th century, and a the end of the 17th dismantled by the French. Its
pentagonal tower, 96 fest in height, resembles one at Stolzenfels, called the rauhe Thurms
(the rough tower). The ruin belongs to a Mr. de Lassaulx in Coblence.
Opposite Lahneck is the Mount of All Saints (Allerheiligenberg); on this there is a small
chapel, to which pilgrimages are made and whence a beautiful prospect may be enjoyed. The
next village on the right bank of the Rhine is.
Horchheim, which possesses more than 1200 inhabitants and has several handsome
country-houses. A good red wine is grown in the neighbourhood. At this spot there is an island
named Oberwerth, about a mile in length and nearly half a mile in breadth. In early times
a convent for ladies of noble families stood here, which was called Magdalenenwerth. The re-
mains are at present used as farm-buildings, which, together with the island, are private pro-
perty. On the other side of the Rhine, at the opening of the valley of the Laubach, we may
observe the excellently arranged and much frequented hydropathic establishment, bearing the
S8, Iſle Ila, Iſlø.
Pfaffendorf, on the right bank, with 900 inhabitants, has some very prettily laid out
leasure-grounds, which lead to the chapel of St. Willibrod, commanding a magnificent view.
assing by the block-houses and other fortifications of the heights of Pfaffendorf, we at length
come to
Ehrenbreitstein, consisting of the fortress so named and the little town of Thal-
Ehrenbreitstein, formerly denominated Mühlheim im Thal or Mühlenthal, with 2200 inhabitants.
The parochial church of the Holy Cross, built on a commanding site, possesses a beautiful
11
picture by Settegast and a Code of the Four Evangelists. Of the castle of Philipsthal, ancientl
a country-residence of the Electors of Treves, every trace has vanished, In the town itself
stands the house formerly tenanted by Sophia von Laroche. Near a mineral spring attempts
have been made to bore for the thermal waters, but without success. The fortress of Ehren-
breitstein is built upon a dolomite rock, 360 feet high, and lies above the town in a north-
easterly direction. In order to be admitted to the interior it is necessary to be provided with
a ticket of permission, which may be procured at the Gouvermements-Bureau. Without that
permission only the lower part of the fortress can be viewed. The Friedrich Wilhelms fort is
an imposing construction: it was built between the years 1815 and 1833, and is furnished with
powerful artillery. . As might be expected from the situation, the prospect from its ramparts is
not seldom equalled, whether in extent or beauty.
SECOND PART
From Coblence to Cologne.
Coblence. This town owes its origin to a Roman fort or castellum, called Confluentes,
or Confluentia, and is situated near the ancient mouth of the Moselle. It afterwards became
subject tho the Carolingians and, from 1018, to the Archbishops of Treves, who, 28 in numbers
retained the sovereignty during a course of almost eight hundred years. The French emigrants
having in 1791 made Coblence their head-quarters, the town was occupied by the republican
troops, under Marceau; on the 23rd October of the same year, and shortly afterwards incorpora-
ted with the French territories. In the beginning of 1814 it was taken by the Allies and, by
the Congress of Vienna, made over to Prussia, together with the whole Rhine province. At
that period the population amounted to 7000 souls; it now numbers 30000, inclusive of a
garrison of 5000 men, distributed among the various fortifications. Coblence lies in 50 ° 21'
50° N. Latitude and 7° 52' E. Longitude from Greenwich. At this spot the Moselle is 1150 feet
and the Rhine 1370 feet broad; at the point of confluence, the level of the Rhine is calculated
at 170 feet obove that of the sea. There are eight Catolic churches or chapels, one Protestant
church, one Synagogue, 9 public schools, and 1340 buildings. Among the latter those most
deserving of attention are; the ancient Liebfrauen church, the upper part of which was probably
constructed after a conflagration in the 14th century. It contains several beautiful paintings by
Zick, also some fine marble altars; there are two towers, each 180 feet high. St. Florian's is
also very ancient, having been rebuilt in the 12th century. Three times has this edifice been
set on fire by lightning, and in 1688 it was severely injured by the cannonade of the French.
This church has likewise two towers, and is at present devoted to Protestant worship. The
collegiate church of St. Castor, situated near the point formed by the junction of the rivers,
was founded in 836 by Louis the Pious, son to Charlemagne, on which account its millenial
jubilee was celebrated with great solemnity in 1836, This church is particularly rich in statues
and monuments; many illustrious personages are buried there, and it has been , the scene of
several important Councils. During the great inundation of 1784 the water reached above the
altars; since this period, the building has undergone considerable repairs. Of its four towers
the two in front, which are 120 feet high, date in the lower part from the ninth century, while
the upper portion was constructed two hundred years later. St. John's or the Jesuits' church
is situated almost in the middle of the town, and is connected with the buildings that composed
the former College of Jesuits, at present used as a Gymnasium. The church, erected in 1617,
has a good painting over the high altar, but possesses otherwise nothing worthy of notice. The
same remark applies to the other churches. The Electoral Palace was built between 1778 and
1781. It is 525 feet in length, and consists of three stories. That portion of the edifice, which
projects in a horse-shoe form, has a longitudinal diameter of 385 feet. The apartments recently
fitted up for the reception of Royalty, are of handsome proportions and delightfully situated
towards the Rhine. These consist of the Throne-room, the grand Drawing-room and the private
apartments of their Majesties. The Court Chapel, in the northern pavilion, is adorned with
beautiful frescoes by Zick, and it is there that English Divine Service is performed. The Cle-
mensbrunnen (Clement's fountain), in the vicinity of the palace, exhibits an obelisk, 40 feet in
height, that was erected in 1791 by the last of the Electors of Treves. The other buildings
deserving attention are: the Theatre; the Government House; the Mayence Gate; the Artillery
Barracks; the Government Offices; the Castor or Napoleon Fountain; the residence of the Com-
mandant; the citizens' and military Casino; the Leer Gate and adjoining Barracks; the Merchant's
house (Kaufhaus); the Reness Hof; the Old Castle, formerly the residence of the Electors, at present
a factory; the Metternich and Bassenheim Hof; the Military Hospital, anciently a Dominican
convent, and the Moselle Gate with the bridge. The former, constructed in 1820–25, is an im-
posing pile of masonry in the form of a triumphal arch. The bridge was built by Archbishop
12
Balduin in 1343. It has fourteen arches and is 1125 feet in length. At the other extremity of
the bridge and on the left bank of the Moselle was situated, from the ninth century to 1688,
the borough of Lützel Coblence; it was of some importance, having its own parochial church,
municipall-hall and three gates. Several times partially destroyed, it was during the French
siege of 1688 burnt to the ground. Recently, some hotels and a few other buildings have sprung
up at this spot. The most frequented promenades of Coblence are, the avenue of lime-trees and
acacias in the New-town, and the Mayence road towards Stolzenfels, which as far as Laubach,
a distance of about a mile and a half, is generally very animated. Another, and very delightful
walk is on the promontory between the Moselle and the Rhine, and in its circuit, comprehends
Fort Alexander, which was built in the years between 1817 and 1822. On its site there stood
in 1153 a Benedictine monastery, which in 1400 was made over to the Carthusian brotherhood;
it was obliged to be pulled down, in order to make way for the fortifications. Below the upper
work or Fort Alexander lies, on a projecting point, the lower work, called Fort Constantine,
both of which command the town and environs. Equally attractive is the walk to the village
of Moselweis, about two miles from Coblence; three ways lead thither, and of these, the one
that passes the Cemetery (where Max von Schenkendorf is buried) is to be preferred. A quarter
of an hour farther is the large village of Güls, situated on the left bank of the Moselle. In
both places there is no lack of houses and gardens of public entertainment. The monument
erected to the French general, Marceau, is to be found on the Petersberg, about a mile from
the town. Proceeding half a mile farther we come to the Flèche º fortified work) of Baben-
heim, and iu about ten minutes more we arrive at a chapel of pilgrimage, named Mariahilf.
Of the Electoral chateau, Schönbornlust, whence the well known manifesto of 1792 was issued
by the French princes, there are only two farmbuildings remaining. &
Rhenish Railway, railway of the Rhine and Lahn, the iron railway-bridge constructed in
1864. — Hotels: Giant Hotel, Bellevue, Anker Hotel. — The railway leads to Ems.
Ems, Embases or Amasia of the Romans, has 6000 inhabitants, one of the most ancient
and most frequented baths, on the Lahn, encompassed by woody mountains. The first bathing
houses built in 1583. The mineral waters are particularly used for pectoral and eye-diseases.
The bathing establishments the Cursaal, the Colonade and on the outside of the town the Bä-
derlei a group of rocks and the caverns of Haselmann are worth to be seen; also the ruins of
Sporkenburg, Spiessberg, Kemenau and the Winterberg. Excursions to Ehrenbreitstein, Coblenz,
Nassau, Lahnstein, Braubach. In 1870 the 13 of July was here the famous meeting of Benedetti
and his Majesty the King of Prussia, this historical place is marked by a stone fixed in the
bottom. Two leagues from Ems to Coblenz, with the railway 45 minutes Ems encreases and
embellishes every year. In the village of Frücht, between Ems and Braubach is the tomb of
the celebrated Prussian minister of state, Baron Stein, whose marble monument of one and a
half natural size, made by Pfahl in Berlin, has been errected near Nassau on the Lahn after
the restauration of the German Empire in 1871.
Neuendorf, on the left bank of the Rhine and the first place we come to below the
mouth of the moselle, possesses above 2000 inhabitants, who are principally occupied in river-
business and market-gardening, and are, generally speaking, in easy circumstances. A little
lower down is the village of Wallersheim, with 450 inhabitants, and the buildings of what was
once a Cistercian Nunnery, but of which the chapel alone remains unchanged, the other portions
being devoted to agricultural purposes. Just oposite, on the right bank, is another suppressed
Convent, called Besselich, and close to it, the picturesque group of houses that compose the
village of Urbar, producing an excellent red wine (Bleichard). It has a population of 700 souls,
but the neighbouring hamlet of Mallendar, situated in a narrow valley, contains but half
that number.
Niederwerth, an island about "ſº mile long and */4 broad, bearing a village of the
same name, with a population of 900 inhabitants. The convent of Cistercian nuns, dissolved in
1802, belonged previously the Augustin order.
Vallendar, a town of 2500 inhabitants, on the right bank, contains a new church in
the Byzantine style, close to which stands the ancient bell-tower. The place is very industrious,
and large manufactories, together with neat country-houses ºo:: by gardens, give it a
lively and pleasing appearance. Particularly worthy of note are, the pipe-factory in the former
convent of Schönstadt, the lofty towers of which are conspicuous objects in the landscape, and
the cloth-factories of Bender. A little farther down, on the opposite bank, is
Kesselheim, a village of 650 inhabitants, where Roman antiquities have often been dis-
covered. In the immediate vicinity, and of the same size, is the village of Sebastian Engers, near
which lies the long but low island of Graswerth. We now come to the pretty little town of
Bendorf, embosemed in orchards. It contains 2600 inhabitants, whose industrious
activity has created a lively trade. There are here iron-works two melting houses and several
factories. The choir and tower of the little Catholic church are well worth of notice. On the
neighbouring height lies the village of Weitersberg, with 700 inhabitants. Farther inland is
situated the borough of Sayn, containing 1200 inhabitants. The extensive iron works of this
place are the property of the King of Prussia. There are besides, a factory for machines
and another for cast-iron artikles. On a rocky eminence rise the imposing ruins of the castle
of the Counts of Sayn. The massive square tower, 60 feet in height, that crowns the whole,
and around which the principal buildings were grouped, is said to be a work of the Romans.
This castle dates back at least as far as the end of the 11th century, It was destroyed by
the French in 1688. At the foot of the eminence on which these ruins are situated, is a country
Seat of the Count of Boos-Waldeck, containing a choiced collection of pictures. The stranger
13
tº-
is also recommended to visit the ancient Abbey of Sayn, formerly belonging to the Premon-
strants, which, founded in 1202, was suppressed in 1803. The beautiful church is still used
for public worship, but a rich collection of wood-engravings, manuscripts, etc. has been dis-
persed. The park of Friedrichsberg is also deserving of notice, on accound of the splendid
views it affords. -
Engers, a borouph of 1100 inhabitants, offers, in addition to a sik-worm-uursery, erected
in the style of an Italian villa, two objects worthy of note. The first is some very ancient
masonry constituting the shore arch of a bridge, said to have been built in the reign of Valen-
tinian. The other is the palace or Château errected by the Elector of Treves, Philip of Waldern-
dorf, in 1789, on the ground formerly occupied by a strong castle of the 14th century. The
château is at present royal property. The interior is decorated with ceiling-paintings by Zick and
contiguous to the building are a nusery for trees and a park. The Concordia foundry, near
Mühlhofen, has two furnaces, blowing apparatus, etc. In the neighbourhood are several pumice-
stone quarries; the thickness of the strata is said, in some places, to amount to 180–200 feet.
On the left side of the river, is Kalten-Engers, whose straggling row of houses is peopled by
700 inhabitants. A sand-bank near this place is accounted dangerous for heavily laden vessels.
On the same side may be seen Urmitz, a village of 800 souls, the former hermitage of Guter-
mann, and at a short distance from de Rhine, the village of Kettig, constaning a population
of 1200 souls. Near this appears
Weissenthurm, a village of 800 inhabitants; it derives the name from its lofty quad-
rangular watch-tower. It formerly indicated the boundary between the archbishopries of Treves
and Cologne. I’ress and language of the country-people undergo a remarkable ãº. at this
border-line. The Obelisk, 25 feet in height, raised in honour of the French general, Hoche,
by the Army of the Sambre and Meuse, was never completed, and has only been preserved from
total decay by the intervention of th Prussian government. Having passed the Neuwieder
Island, we come to the trown of
Neuwied, on the right bank. It occupies the ground on which the borough of Langen-
dorf, belonging to the Counts of Wied, formerly stood. This place, having been destroyed in
the Thirty years' war, the present town was founded by Count Frederic von Wied, and though
severely treated by the French both in the 17th and 18th centuries, soon attained a flourishing
condition. Neuwied possesses at present more than 1200 buildings, and 10000 inhabitants,
including all confessions. The town is divided into 25 blocks by five streets running length-
wise, and four cross streets. Of these thoroughfares, the principal are, the market, Mittel-,
Schloss-, and Engers-streets. The palace, in which the Prince resides, was completed in 1722,
and connects with the Castle-garden, in which is the residence of the celebrated Brasilian
traveller Prince Maximilian, and of his brother Prince Charles. The ground-floor of this house
contains the family library and an interesting collection of antiquities. In a building formerly
attached to a pheasant-walk, is placed the collection of natural curiosities belonging to Prince
Maximilian. The Reformed, Lutheran, and Catholic confessions have each a church, besides
which, there are meeting-houses of the Moravian Community, the Mennonites, and the Quakers,
together with a Synagogue. On the side of Neuwied itself, but more especially at the village
of Nieder-Bieber, abut 2 miles distant, a quantity of Roman antiquities have been dug up. At
the last mentioned place, there stood a castellum, 840 feet in length by 631 in breadth, of an
oblong form with rounded angles. The ancient name of this fortification has not been ascertained;
in later times it has been denominated Victoria, inasmuch as this appellation frequently occurs
on the inscriptions which have been discovered here. Near the neighbouring village of Heddes-
heim a Roman settlement formerly existed. The more remarkable among the antiquities ex-
cavated at either of these spots, are preserved in the above-mentioned cellection at Neuwied.
Passing by Rasselstein's foundry, through Nieder- and Ober-Bieber, at through Saindorf, we
come in about two hours to Mon Repos, a hunting-castle belonging to the Princes of Wied.
It lies on a hill, 700 feet high, and woodland slopes form a most delightful back-ground. The
prospect is very extensive.
An excursion to the ancient Abbey of Rommersdorf, about 3"/3 miles from Neuwied, is also
to be recommended. The style in wich the buildings connected with the abbey are erected,
may be termed princely. Many Roman antiquities have been found in the environs. On a
height behind the abby is a circle of masonry, 500 paces in circumference, and which is con-
jectured to have been a fortified work, in connection with the great palisade-ditch ſºlº
that ran close by this point. The Benedictine monastery of Rommersdorf took its rise in 111
from a hermitāge, iu 1137 was changed into an abbey of the Premonstrants, and was suppressed
in 1803. At present it belongs to the manorial estate of Baron of Stolzenberg. From Neuwied
a very interesting excursion, in a scientific point of view, may be made to the
Lake of Laach, the crater of an extinct volcano. From Coblence the abbey of Laach
is 6°/2 leagues, while from Neuwied the distance is but 3"/4 leagues. At this place two groups
of later vulcanoes, with perfect craters present themselves to the spectator; the termination
of their activity is assumed to have been about 4000 years ago. The beds of lava, the course
of which is easily discernible, are turned to good account by the inhabitants of Niedermending
and Cottenheim. The lava pits are upwards of 200 feet deep, an the thickness of the layer
seems to vary between 300 and 400 feet. The largest and most remarkable among these craters
is that one, whose lower part constitutes the Lake of Laach. The sides of the crater rise from
300 to 600 feet above the the surface of the water, and the circumference of the whole basin, at
its edge, is estimated it nearly five miles. The lake itself encloses an area of 1435 acres, and
is situated at an elevation of 718 feet above the Rhine at Andernach; it has an average depth
14
of 218 feet. Not far from the brink of the lake lies the Abbey of Laach, founded in the 11th
century, and by whose inhabitants a subterranean outlet to the waters, which had till then
been wanting, was contrived. Almost every vestige of an old castle belonging to the Counts
of Laach, in former times situated opposite the monastery, has disappeared. The fine abbey-
church, which contains the monument of the founder, deceased in 1095, has been restored at
the expense of the King of Prussia.
#. farm-estate of Laach belongs to the family von Delius, while the church and woods
form part of the Crown domains. That the Romans were acquainted with the Lake of Laach
and that the surrounding country was at one time inhabited' by them, is sufficiently proved by
the coins frequently found in this neighbourhood. — The chapel of St. Genevieve, between
Krufft, and Maien...is an interesting relic of the middle ages. This part of the country was
formerly covered with an impenetrable forest, in the depths of which the repudiated but inno-
cent consort of a Count of Hohen-Simmern found shelter in a cave, at the spot where the
chapel now stands; at present the country wears a very different aspect, and there is rather
a want than a superabundance of wood. The chapel and adjacent grange of Frauenkirchen,
together with a neighbouring mineral spring, are private property. In the vicinity is an altar
bearing an inscriptiou in old German letters en relief.
Proceeding down the river from Neuwied, we come first to
Irlich, a village of 1400 inhabitants, surrounded with vineyards, the produce of which,
however, is not highly spoken of Near the ancient church there is a large stone, called the
Reichsapfel (º of Empire), whichs seems to date from the early part of the middle ages.
The castle of Friedrichstein, commenced in the 17th century, but never completed, is now a
perfect ruin, and has received from popular superstition the cognomen of the Devil's House."
On the heights we may perceive the village of Wollendorf, with a population of 500 souls, and
close to the Rhine Fahr, with 400. and verry prettily situated. Over this last is Gennersdorf,
and still higher up Hüllenberg, both presenting themselves very picturesquely. Opposite these,
on the left bank, we discover, -
Andernach, a town containing 4000 inhabitants. This place is very ancient; even in
the time of Julius Cesar (55 B. Chr.) a fort and bridge over the Rhine are said to have existed
here. By the Romans it was called Antenacum, was destroyed in 335 by the Alemanni, built
up again by Julian, but in 407 levelled with the ground by the Franks. Having again risen
from its ruins, the town declared itself independent in 1255, and in the 15th century was one
of the more considerable cities in the Rhenish League. In the Thirty years' war it was stormed
by the Swedes, and in 1688 laid in ashes by the French. In consequence of these devastations,
Andernach has no buildings of Roman origin above the surface of the ground; from the middle
ages, however, there are several interesting remains. Foremost among these is the church of
St. Genevieve, constructed of tufa-stone; it has four towers, and one i. of the edifice is
attributed to the Carolingian period, while the rest dates from the first half of the 13th century.
Worthy of note in it are the remains of an ancient Altar with the 12 Apostles; an historico-
religions monument of some importance, called the Controversial Sermon; a > Laving in the
Tomb,< and the monument of Sir Schilling of Lahnstein. The so-called Roman Gate appears
to be of no earlier date than the 14th century. The remains of the archiepiscopal palace,
which is to be ascribed to the 12th century, do not stand on the foundations of the Austrasian
Palatium, but, in all probability, on the ruins of the imperial (Carol.) Pfalz or place. The
Palatium referred to was situated in the pleasure-grounds at present belonging to the family
of Armbruster, where there stood formerly a gate, in good preservation, dating from the
Frankish period. This gate has since been re-erected on the estate of Pommerhof, near Plaidt,
one league from Andernach. The manorial houses that once existed in great numbers, have
almost all disappeared. Some portions, however, remain of the house belonging to the family
of Ley, of the Meringerhof, of the Bürresheimer Hof, as also of the Rhine-gate and the ancient
Franciscan monastery. The so-called Jew's Bath, behind the Town-Hall, is sait to date its
origin from the time of the Romans. The ancient convent of Augustin nuns, St. Thomas, out-
side the town, is recorded as having existed in the 12th century, and in 1794 was set on fire
by the French. That part of the building which escaped the conflagration, together with some
new erections, is now devoted to the purposes of a poor-house, a hospital, a lunatic asylum,
and a leather manufactory. In Andernach there is a considerable commerce in volcanic pro-
ductions of every kind. Seven fairs are held here annually, of which the one called the
• Bernkrautsmarktº at Michaelmas, is quite a popular festival. At this place the Rhine again
turns due north, encompassing an island, opposite which, on the right bank, stands the borough of
Leudesdorf, with a population of 1600 inhabitants. It contains a number of old-
fashioned houses and is overlooked by the Windhäuser Hof. The isolated Kreuz-Capelle (chapel
of the Cross) with its small pointed steeple, lies ensconced among vineyards and gardens, which
reach down to the river, and render the scene very attractive. On the opposite bank, almost
concealed in large orchards, is the village of e
Namedy, and close to it the island of Krummetwerth. In a neighbouring valley (Rauen-
thālchen) there is a copper-mine. Basalt and tufa are found in abundance, the conntry around
being quite of a volcanic character, and rich in the most picturespue scenery. One of the
most interesting points is the castle of º
Hammerstein, at the commencement of the 10th, eentury an imperial fortress, and destroyed
by the Emperor, Henry the Second. It having been rebuilt, Henry the Fourth, in 1105, took shelter
in it as a sure place of refuge. The race of the knights, of Hammerstein became extinct in 1418.
At the time of the Thirty years' war this castle was still a strong fortress, but in 1688 it was
15
surprised by the French, who then completely demolished it. At its foot lies the once strongly
fortified town of Ober-Hammerstein, at present a village with 200 inhabitants and an old church.
In the back-ground we may observe the outlets of five valleys. Behind the hamlet of Fornich,
on the other bank of the Rhine, the wooded heights are likewise broken by the openings of
two valleys, in which basalt is obtained in great quantity, and where in 1809 a Roman votive
stone, besides funeral urns and coins were discovered. Passing the pretty little village of Nieder-
IIammerstein, of 400 inhabitants, shut in by steep and almost overhanging rocks, we arrive at
Rheinbrohl, a borough with a population of 1800 souls, is situated in a small plain
that extends as far as Hönningen. The two churches and the bustling appearance of the place
procure for it a certain degree of attention. Opposite, and united with Nippes or Newdorf, stands
JBrohl, the most conspicuous object in which is a large paper-manufactory surrounded by exten-
sive and tastefully laid out grounds. This place contains 1000 inhabitants. At the Concordia
works are two Roman altars, which were found below the Tönisteiner mineral springs. A road
leads past this spring and the monastery Tönnistein, that towers above it, and traversing the
Brohl-valley, brings the tourist to the Lake of Laach. A little lower down the river may be
perceived the castle of
Rheineck, composed of three buildings and belonging to Professor von Bethmann-Holl-
weg, who in 1832 erected the present structure under the direction of the architect Lassaulx.
The style is Byzantine. The castle of Rheineck is said to have risen in the 10th century, on
the ruins of a Roman watch-tower. The family of its burgraves became extinct in 1548. Rhein-
eck then devolved to the Electors of Cologne, from whom it was bought by the Count of Sin-
zendorf in 1654, and, thirty-four years later, blown up by the French. -
Having been rebuilt, it was burnt down in 1785; the fire was supposed to be the act of
an incendiary. The present castle, the elevation of which above the Rhine amounts to 400
feet, is in the interior arranged, partly in the taste of the middle ages, partly according to that
of our times, The circular 㺠is particularly fine; on the outside it forms an octagon, and
its beautiful fresco paintings are by Steinle. In the great dining-room, from which there is a
splendid view on the Siebengebirg, there is a picture by Begas, representing the Emperor
Henry IV. in penitential garment, waiting at the Pope's gate. ln the same apartment stands a
curious buffet with the large drinking-cups formerly in use. In the saloon there is a table of
Chinese workmanship, and a glass case on the corridor contains a collection of Chinese arms.
The tower is eighty feet high, and, as may be supposed, affords a most charming prospect.
After Rheineck, the first place on the left bank is the borough of
Niederbreisig, with 1400 inhabitants. The church built in 1718 and the remains of
the Templar's House are worth seeing. In the neighbouring valley lies the village of Ober-
breising, containing 700 inhabitants. To judge by the numerous antiquities found in the
environs, a Roman Colony of some importance seems formerly to have occupied this ground.
Looking to the right bank, we perceive just opposite
Hönningen, a village of 1300 inhabitants and not far from it, lies the castle of Stern-
fels, the property of the princely family "von der Leyen.< . Its three pointed gables stand out
in strong relief against the dark-grey rock, and give it a highly picturesque appearance. It is
still inhabited and retains in part the arrangements of earlier times. The hills now again
approach the Rhine till we come to the hamlet of Argendorf, behind which the village of
Leubsdorf, with 800 inhabitants, and extending far into a narrow valley, soon becomes visible.
This is followed by Dattenberg, a place of the same size, with , the ruins of a castle bearing its
name. On the opposite bank, the river Ahr discharges itself into the Rhine. Somewhat more
than a mile up the river is situated the little town of
Sinzig, possessing 2000 inhabitants. It is one of the most ancient places on the bank-
of the Rhine, having been the site of a Roman stronghold, that was probably called Sentias
cum, inasmuch as in records of the year 762 this name is given to it. From the Roman castellum
a Frankish palatium arose, which, at a later period, made way for an imperial Pfalz, whence
Pepin, the Father of Charlemagne, dated several documents, that are still extant. On a moun-
tain called the Helenenberg, where subsequently a Minorite nunnery was erected, a chapel of
the Empress Helena is said to have stood. At Sinzig we find also an Helenenpforte (gate) and
an Helenenfeld. The ancient church, constructed of tuff-stone, with a tolerably high tower, is
worth visiting. It is built in the form of a regular cross, with an octagonal spire, whence an
extensive prospect may be enjoyed. According to the altar-piece it was here that Constantine
beheld the Cross in the heavens, for which tradition, however, there is no foundation, as the
Emperor was never at Sinzig. A curiosity of the place is exhibited in a chapel contiguous to
the church; it consists in a Christian mummy, to which te name of St. Vogt has been given.
In former years it used to be carried about in the Carneval procession, decked out in tawdry
finery. The French transferred it to Paris, whence it returned in 1815, and since this period
has no more taken part in the Shrove-tide festivities. The valley of the Ahr, 12 leagues #.
27 miles) in length, produces an excellent red wine, called Ahrbleichert. It also contains Ahr-
weiler, the chief-town of the district, with a population of 3000 souls; the ancient nunnery of
Marienthal, for females of noble birth; the borough of Altenahr with a castle-ruin; the hamlet
and picturesque remains of Altenburg, besides several villages. Near Altenahr, the government
has caused a tunnel to be bored, in order, by an additional passage for the water, to prevent inun-
dations. At the mouth of the Ahr, and almost in the centre of the alluvial plain gradually
formed by that river, is situated the village of Kripp, inhabited by 850 souls. This alluvial
deposit has gratly altered the direction of the Rhine, which formerly flowed nearer to Sinzig,
16 .
but is now compelled to take its course close to the mountains on the eastern or right bank.
At the foot of these heights we see the prosperous little town of
Linz, with an industrious population of 2700 inhabitants. Here there are slate factories,
iron-works, vitriol factories, smelting-houses for zinc, etc. The place is very ancient. After
a bloody feud, it was obliged to submit to the Archbishops of Cologne in the 14th century.
One of these , Engelbert III. — erected a stronghold here, which in 1475 was taken by Charles
the Bold, and destroyed by the Margrave Albrecht of Brandenburg-Kulmbach. Linz suffered
severely from the wars of the 17th century. Its streets are often steep and narrow, but tolerably
well paved. The parochial church, dating from the 13th century, contains several monuments
of the chivaleric period; two of them are of iron. It is built on an elevated site, which is
reached by a flight of steps and affords a very good view. The other mediaeval structures are
scarcely worth particular notice. The town is environed with handsome gardens, and the sur-
rounding landscape is of a most varied character. In the immediate neighbourhood will be
found a basalt quarry, and a mine from which a kind of imperfect coal, termed Braumkohle, is
extracted. The village of Linzhausen, a short distance below Linz, shows the ruins of the castle
of Leyen, and possesses 280 inhabitants. Lower down we come to Ochenfels, overtopped by the
remains ef the castle of the same name. This village contains more than 400 inhabitants. The
extensive vineyards stretch as far as Kasbach, a village of 340 souls, and situated in a narrow
gleen. On the heights may be perceived the hamlets of Ohlenberg and Erl. Following the line
of the vineyards, we come in •
Erpel, a borough of 1200 inhabitants; it is very ancient and possesses a venerable church
in the Byzantine style. The wine that grows at the foot of the Erpeler Ley, a steep basalt
rock, 680 feet in height, belongs to the best in this part of the country. From Erpel there is
a ferry to the little town of
Remagen, which is nearly opposite and contains 3000 inhabitants. Under the Romans,
the place was called Rigomagum. It consists but of one long principal street, with a few cross-
lanes towards the Rhine or the mountains. The market-fountain is said to be composed of the
relics of antiquity. The church, constructed in the 13th century, contains an old picture repre-
senting St. Apollinarius; it also possesses the skull of the saint. Two sculptures in stone, the
one representing a >Last supper, with full-length figures, the other, a x Laying in the Tomb,<
which were dug up in the 17th century between Remagen and Sinzig, and of which no farther
particulars are known, - are equally worthy of inspection with the 19 figures on the Catholic
parsonage. These last belong, in all probability, to the eighth or ninth century, but in no
case are they attributable to a Roman origin, as some have chosen to essert. The
Apollinaris church, which is reached after an ascent of about ten minutes, is undoub-
tedly the most attractive object in the vicinity of Remagen. The old and very dilapidated
church having been pulled down, the present elegant structure was erected by the Count of
Fürstenberg-Stammheim, and may be considered an ornament to the surrounding country. The
figure of the edifice is that of a regular cross, of which the principal portal forms the foot,
while the head is represented by the semi-circular choir. Two lofty, pointed towers, of perfora-
ted work, elevate themselves at the foremost extremity. On the gable-end of the church a
ilded cross, composed of flowers, is conspicuous. The angles are filled out by two chapels with
at roofs, and the whole building is encirled with a gallery. Beneath the choir, there is a
crypt, while the interior of the edifice is adorned with excellent Fresco-paintings, which do ho-
mour to the stade of modern art. The elevation of the site affords a very extensive prospect.
Anciently, a priory stood on this ground, and its church was in great repute as a place of pil-
grimage. Qn descending the river from Remagen, the village of Heister is the first place we
meet; this is followed by
Unkel, also on the right bank, and a market-town with 800 inhabitants. It stands on
a projecting angle, round which the Rhine makes a sudden bend. With the exception of vol-
canic productions, more especially the quaries of hexagonal basalt-columns, which are particu-
larly thick in the large and small Unkelstein, there is nothing worthy of remark in these en-
virons, unless it be the prospect towards the Siebengebirge, which is very striking... Likewise
on the right hand, we now see, embosomed in vineyards, the village of Scheuern, with 300 in-
habitants, and opposite, on the left bank, follow the hamlets of Bürgel and Bandorf, appertai-
ning to the borough of g
Oberwinter, whose population numbers 1300 souls. The new church is not particularly
worth notice, but the old one, close the Rhine, deserves a visit on account of the peculiarity of
its style. Opposite lies the large village of
Rheinbreitbach, with 1400 inhabitants, and situated in the allow of a wide valley,
which, towards the south, is formed by the spurs of the Westerwald, towards the north and
east, by tha heights of the Siebengebirge. On the Menzenberg a good red wine is grown. In
the neighbourhood are several copper and lead mines... Near
Rolandseck, a village of 400 inhabitants, on the left bank, the Rhine turns towards the
east, and encompasses two pretty islands, on the larger of which,
Nonnenwerth, stands an ancient nunnery, that has recently been restored. The earlier
Benedictine convent was combined with a hospital. In process of time, the establishment grew
very wealthy, and previous to the fire of 1773, almost presented the appearance. of a palace.
Since the conflagration, the convent has been rebuilt on a smaller, though not inconsiderable
scale. The whole forms an oblong, 2.0 feet long and 120 broad, inside of which are a garden
and farm-buildings. The convent was dissolved in 1802, and the house and grounds became
private property; it has, however, lately been re-purchased, in order to be devoted to eccle-
*
17
siastical purposes. To the left, may be seen a gate-like ruin, perched on a steep rock; it is .
all that remains of the castle of Rolandseck, said to have been erected by Roland, nephew of
Charlemagne. Tradition reports him to have ended his days here, in profound grief at the
reclusion of his beloved, who had taken the veil at the island convent. Not less worthy of a
visit than this picturesque spot is the adjacent Roderberg, with an extinct crater and the ruins
of a castle, bearing the same name. — #. other island, Grafenwerth, belongs to the village of
Honnef, on the right bank, numbering, with its dependent hamlets, 700 inhabitants.
The houses and farms, scattered amongst meadows, vineyarps, and orchards, give the environs
an animated and pleasing aspect. But the grand, object of attraction is the magnificent perspec-
tive of the Siebengebirge (seven mountains), whose most acuminated peaks Ley and Protăon,
towards the south, Hemmerich, on the east, and Löwenberg, with its ruins, towards the north,
together with the blunted cone of the Wolkenburg (castle in the clouds) and the picturesque
crag of the Drachenfels, present a landscape that has always elicited the admiration of every
beholder. At the foot of the Drachenfels lies the pretty village of
Rhöndorf with 600 inhabitants, stretching far into the valley, and overtopped by a
very ancient quarry, formerly worked by the Romans; to the east of it is another quarry, which
supplied the stone for the construction of the cathedral of Cologne. On the left bank is situa-
ted the neat village of
Mehlem, with a population of 900 souls, including the country-houses at Mehlemerau, a
little lower down. Here is the opening of the little valley of Bachem, which gradually ascends
to Rolandseck. Opposite appears the ancient little town of
Königswinter, containing nearly 2000 inhabitants. In the time of the Romans a
colony of vetcrans, was settled here, of which some small relics are still preserved. In all pro-
bability, the population at that time was composed exclusively of quarry-men, stone-masons, etc.
The present name is derived from the winter residence of a Frankish king (Hilderic) in the fifth
century. The place consists of one long strect, leading from the Rhine towards the mountains.
At the church, the antique missal of Drachenfels is worthy of inspection. During the summer
season Königswinter is much frequented both by the travelling public and the inhabitants of
the neighbouring places. Hotels: Hotel of Berlin; European Hotel. Long caravans may often
be seen passing Schmidt's Felsenkeller (a place of entertainment) on the road, which is not very
steep, to or from the
IDrachenfels. The remains of a castle of this name crown an isolated cone of trachyte.
This stronghold was erected in 1117, contemporaneously with the neighbouring castle of Wol-
kenburg. The Burgraves of Drachenfels became extinct in 1580. Through the female line the
castle passed into the possession of Waldbott of Bassenheim, and was subsequently destroyed
by Franz von Sickingen. A Roman watch-tower is reported to have stood here in carlier
times. The panoramic view represented from the castle, as well as from the monument (close
to the inn) erected in honour of those who fell at the passage of the Rhine in 1814, is one
of the most celebrated in Europe. The range of the Siebengebirge is in itself highly interest-
ing. It covers an area of about five square miles (engl.) and is intersected by two principal
valleys. The summits generally bear the form of truncated cones; seven of these, towering
above the rest, extend themselves in a chain towards the Rhine, and their number has given
the name to the whole range. They are known under the following appellations; Löwenberg,
1270 feet above Königswinter. and on the top, a ruin 70 feet high; Oelberg, on the same alti-
tude; Petersburg, with a chapel at the place where a Cistercian convent formerly stood, 880
feet; Wolkenburg, at one time crowned with a castle, but of which all traces have disappeared,
840 feet; Hemmerich, 780 feet; Nonnenstrouberg, 680 feet, and Drachenfels, 1170 feet above
Königswinter. At some distance may be observed the two summits of the Suchsberge, which
seem to attain a still greater elevation. All these mountains are composed partly of trachyte,
partly of basalt and trachyte. In order to visit the whole chain of the Siebcngebirge, at least
a day is necessary. On the opposite bank, but a little lower down the river than Königs-
winter, is the village of Ringsdorf, from which place the village and castle of
Głodesberg may be reached in a quarter of an hour. Owing to its baths, which were
known in the remotest times, and are supplied by a mineral spring, called by the country-
people the *Draitsch,< — Godesberg is a lively little place, especially during the summer.
The pleasure-grounds and buildings in the vicinity of the spring are indebted for their origin
to the Electors Clement August and Maximilian Francis; at present, we find a range of hand-
some buildings and gardens, appropriated to the purpose of public entertainment. The environs
of the spring are highly romantic, and a walk is to be recommended to the ancient convent
of Marienforst, where monks and nuns resided under one roof. The distance is scarcely a
mile and a half. Behind the village, and situated on a conical hill, rises the tower of Godes-
berg, 100 feet in height, and all that remains of the former castle, thus named. The eminence
on which it stands, was, in remote antiquity, a place of sacrifice; at a later period, either a
Roman watch-tower or a temple was erected on the spot. The present tower appears, in its
upper part at least, to date from the 13th century. The view from it is very extensive. Near
the tower is a chapel of the 17th century, to which . at one time, a hermitage was attached.
The whole site, which is not considerable, indicates the position of a palace inhabited by
Pepin in 710, the period of the destruction of which is not known. Archbishop Theodoric of
Cologne built the castle in 1210; it was several times besieged, and was at last blown up by
Duke Ferdinand of Bavaria, in 1583. The ruin, is the property of the princess of Prussia,
Returning to the Rhine, we now perceive on the right bank
18
3.
Nieder-Dollendorf, with a population of 350 souls. The much larger Ober-Dollendorf
lies farther inland, towards the mountains, and a little beyond it, is the ancient Abbey of
Helsterbach, whose picturesque ruins are very imposing. The church was erected in
the 12th century, and the choir, which alone remains standing, attests the magnificence of the
whole building. The monks, who had previously been located on the Petersberg, removed to
this monastery in 1188. It was suppressed after the French revolution. The enormous depo-
sits of basalt in the neighbouring Stenzelberge are particularly worth seeing. — With
Plittersdorf commence the isolated groups of houses that compose the villages of the
lower Rhine. These are often divided into eight or ten sections or breaks; while the wall is
of a dazzling white. Opposite Plittersdorf lies
Ober-Cassel, in three sections, with a very small church, and a lofty grey tower. In
the time of the Romans, a small castle stood here. On the heights may be seen the hamlet
of Römlingshausen, ane below, the farm of Hosterbach; farther on, comes the village of Ra-
mersdorf, with 550 inhabitants and the remains of the abbey of this name, situatod on a rising
ground. This is succeeded by
Limberich and Küdingshoven, at which latter the row of hills connected with the
Siebengebirge, terminates. At the distance of about six miles, situated on a rather steep hill,
is to be seen the former abbey of Siegburg, at present a lunatic asylum; at the foot of the
eminence, lies the little town of the same name. Both banks of the Rhine now begin to be-
come level and monotonous, till we arrive at
Bonn, on the heft bank of the river, which is heere 1440 feet in breadth, and 135 feet
above the level of the sea. Hotels: Golden Star; Royal Hotel; Bellevue; Hotel Kley; Rheineck
Hotel. The ground on which Bonn stands, appears. long before the Romans, to have been part
of a large island, extending from half a league above the town to about one and three
Quarters below it. Ten years before Christ, and close to a native settlement, Drusus erected a
Castellum here, which received the name of Bonna, and stood on the site of the Wichelshof.
Under the protection ef the fort, the colony rapidly increased in size. It bore the name of
Verona, a fact which is sufficiently proved by several inscriptions on stone, discovered here,
and referrible to the first and fifteenth legions. That also the Ara or principal altar of the
Ubii was situated at this place, is very doubtful. Both town and fortress were demolished by
the Germans, about the middle of the fourth century. These were, indeed, both partially
restored by the Emperor Julian, but they having been levelled with the ground by Attila's
hordes, this part of the country seems to have remained almost without inhabitants from the
fifth to the ninth century, so that the Normans found very little to devastate. Bruno, arch-
bishop of Cologne, having become master of the country in 954, caused Bonn to be rebuilt;
it remained, however, without the protection of walls till 1240. It was not till Archbishop
Engelbert fixed his residence here, in 1267, that better times began to dawn on Bonn. From
that period the town increased in size and importance. It had, indeed, several sieges to endure.
but they were all successfully withstood. Archbishop Salentin, in the second half of the 16th
century. did a great deal for Bonn, particularly by erecting a castle for the residence of the
Electors of Cologne; this edifice, however, did not stand longer than 20 years. His successor
Gebhard, who married and endeavoured to secularize the Electorate, was deprived of his dignity
on the 22nd of March 1583. He and his consort quitted the town, which was then besiegend
for several months, and subsequently, together with the whole archbishopric transferred to the
Elector Ernest. In the night of the 22nd–23rd of December 1587, Bonn was taken by surprise.
An adventurer, named Schenck von Niedeck, effected an entrance into the town through the
Rhine-gate, and having made himself master of the place, caused it to be plundered by his
band. He kept possession of the town, till the 26th of September in the following year.
During the Thirty years' war, Bonn had likewise to suffer considerably. It is recorded, that in
1680, a walrus more than fourteen feet long was seen here swimming up the Rhine. Two
months later it was found dead, at Niel below Cologne. In the years 1673, 1689 and 1703,
Bonn was hard pressed by foreign troops; it suffered the most injury from the siege of 1689.
However, an article of the Treaty of Rastatt (1714) having stipulated that the fortifications of
Bonn should be razed, which also took place, the town thenceforth began to flourish anew,
under Clement Augustus. His successor, Maximilian Frederick, founded an academy, which by
Maximilian Franzis was extended to a university. In 1794, Bonn, together with the whole left
bank of the Rhine, fell under the French dominion; the effect of this change was, to reduce
the population from 9600 or 7500 souls. Its total decline seemed inevitable, when, in 1814,
it was fortunately transferred to Prussia. Since that epoch, the Frederick-William - University
and a good administration have brought Bonn to a degree of prosperity such as it never before
enjoyed. Including the students and the military, its present population amounts to nearly
28000 souls. The number of buildings, within and without the walls, is 1450. Ten buildings
are devoted to public worship, eight of which are appropriated to the Catholic, one to the
Protestant, and one to the Jewish rite. The most remarkable among them is the Cathedral or
Münster, which is said to owe its origin to a church founded in 316 by the Empress Helena.
The present edifice dates from the 12th century, and its form is an oblong. The first object
that strikes the eye on entering, is the bronze statue of St. Helena, which was cast in Italy,
in the 17th century. Nineteen steps lead up to the chief altar, at which the anti-emperor
Frederick of Austria, and Charles IV. as emperor of Germany, went through the ceremony of
coronation. The Cathedral is surmounted by four towers. A temple of Mars is said to have
stood in the immediate vicinity. The former castle-chapel in the University-building, is used
for Protestant worship.
19
.*
§.:2
%
Among the other public buildings, the University takes the first place. It was erected
in the middle of the last century. on the site of a former palace, and is 1280 feet in length.
In 1777 it became a prey to the flames, and has never been entirely rebuilt. During the period
of the French dominion it contained a factory of beet-root sugar. Since 1819 the edifice has
been allotted to the Frederick-William-University. It comprises, exclusive of the Anatomical
School. 300 lecture-halls, rooms etc. In these are to be found the most various collections,
besides the library, consisting of 100,000 volumes, and objects of art, etc. The long gallery in
this building stands in connection with the handsome gate of St. Michael, from the platform
of which a fine view may be obtained, as also from the so-called "Alten Zoll,” a terrace along
the Rhine, and anciently the site of the archiepiscopal palace. Deserving of attention are: the
Anatomical School, in the Hofgarten; the new Observatory, in the Poppelsdorf Avenue; the
Town-hall and Obelisk on the market-place; the Collegiate Building; the Town Hospital; the
Arrest House; the large and small Maarhof; the Gondemanderhof; the Riding-Sehool; the
Windmill, with a fine prospect; the Heisterbacher Hof; the Theatre; Worrth's manufactory in
the ancient monastery of the Capuchins; the Administration of Mines' Office; the Bornheimer
Hof and the citizens' Casino. In the old house with pointed gables, Nr. 934 in the Rhine-street
Beethhoven was born in 1770, and passed the first years of youth. He died in 1827. The greater
"part of the house is at present uninhabited. Arndt was also , borne at Bonn, to him and
Beethoven monuments have been erected there. — The communication with Beuel and other
places on the opposite bank is maintained by means of a flying bridge. A popular amusement
in great repute is, the village-festival at Kuhl. The most frequented gardens for public entertain-
ment are, exclusive of those in and round the town; at Poppelsdorf, in the Nursery - ground, at
Endemich, Dransdorf, Roisdorf, Rheindorf, Beuel, Kessenich, and Godesberg. Near the road
leading to the latter place stands the Hochkreuz (high cross), a Gothic pillar 30 feet high
and composed of three sections. It was erected in the year 1333 by Archbishop Walram, and
was repaired a few years ago. -
On the Kreuzberg, where in remote antiquity a sacred grove, enclosing a celebrated place
of sacrifice, existed, – there appears at present a church resorted to by pilgrims; it was erected
in the 17th century, and was connected with a Franciscan monastery, which was subsequently
dissolved. All the bodies deposited in its vaults, have become mummies; these are freely
shown to strangers. The lofty flight of marble steps is an imitation of the sacred stairs at
Rome. Each step is hallowed by a particular relic. Under this staircase is the Holy Tomb.
On the balcony is a group of statues, representing Jesus, in full size, and wearing the purple
robe and the crown of thorns; near him stands Pilate, behind whom are Pharisees and Roman
soldiers. — Opposite Bonn lies the village of
Beuel, containing more than 500 inhabitants, and connected with the village of Kombahn
and Willich-Rheindorf. Half an hour's walk down the river, is situated the inconsiderable
Schwarz-Rheindorf, distinguished by possessing a Collegiate church of a singular
construction; there being in fact two churches, one over the other. The adjacent abbey, at
present a farm-house, was sesularized in 1802. This remarkable church was purchased by the
State in 1820, and has since undergone a thorough repair. The shape of the edifice is that of
a regular cross, with a rounded choir. The tower, which is very handsome, is 178 feet high.
Church and convent were founded in 1148. From this spot may be seen the confluence of the
Sieg with the Rhine, Bonn, Siegburg, and many other places. In
Willich there is likewise a Collegiate church, to which formerly a nunnery was attached;
this was suppressed in 1802. Near this, is Pützchen, celebrated for a miraculous spring, called
the Adelborn, and also for a fair, combined with a pilgrimage, which is held in September.
Here there was a Capuchin monastery.
Siegburg, a town of 2000 inhabitants, is said to have been the principal settlement
of the Ubii, previously to their emigration to the left bank of the Rhine. That part of the
mountain on which stood their Ara, or Great Altar, and the ancestral seat of their king, Segest,
whose daughter Thusnelda was united to Hermann (Arminius), the conqueror of the Romans,
— there arose in the 11th century a castle belonging to the Archbishops of Cologne; this was
soon transformed into the celebrated abbey which existed till within the last sixty years. In
1824 the building was converted into an extensive Lunatic Asylum, a purpose for which it is
admirably adapted by the elevation (200 feot) and salubrity of its situation.
Below the Wichelshof, close to Bonn, on the site of which, as already mentioned, the
Roman fort Bonna formerly stood, the village of
. . Graurheindorf, comes into view. It contains, 700 inhabitants, and up to 1802 possessed
a Cistercian nunnery, of which, at the present day, only the chapel and some subordinate build-
ings remain. This place divides itself into three groups; the windmill is prettily situated. On
the opposite side of the river, between the former and present mouths of the Sieg, lies the
island of Graupenwerth, on which there are still some vestiges of a sconce erected by the
Dutch, in 1620. -
. At the ancient embouchitre of the Sieg, is Mondorf, with 600 inhabitants, and also with
a Windmill in the back-ground. Farther inland, may be perceived the much larger village of
Bergheim. On the left bank; the straggling market-town of
Hersel stretches along the river. It possesses a population of more than 1200 souls, a
number of handsome houses, and a large church. The Romans had a settlement here. The
island of Pelzdorf lies just oposite, and near the right bank the much larger one of Kripp,
which almost joins another island, called Werth. Behind these two we perceive the village of
20
Rheidt, with 900 inhabitants, a large portion of whom are broom-makers; on the lef,
bank is Udorf, in four groups, with a large Dutch windmill, and 450 souls. To these succeedt
situated on higher ground, the villages of Widdig, abont the size of Urdorf, and Urfel, with
600 inhabitants. Between the two last named places, and close to the Rhine, there stands
a redoubt, which dates from the Thirty years' war. On the right banc we see.
Nieder-Kassel, a village with 1100 inhabitants, with a fine Dntch windmill, near which
a Roman fort is reported to have stood; of this, however, all vestiges have disappeared.
Passing by Luelsdorf (pop. 600) and the castle of the same, we arrive at
Ober- and Nieder-Wesseling, both on the left bank, and built in a more connected
manner than is usual in this part of the country. The latter village, the population of which
is 600 souls, has a steam-mill and sole-leather factory. It is said, that there was formerly a
large Roman altar, with a long inscription, standing here. From here to Cologne the course
of the Rhine is very sinuous; within this distance it describes a double S. Proceeding down-
wards we come to Godorf. with 500 inhabitants, a lofty tower, and a fine windmill, on the
left hand; on the right is seen the village of Langel, behind the Langeler Werth; to the left
again, Swerl, in 3 groups, with 600 inhabitants, in a flat country devoid of trees; while the
Abtshof, and the villages of Ober- and Nieder-Zündorf behind the island of the same name
are on the right. A tower-like windmill, erected on an artificial mound, very much resembles'
a sign-post and points to Cologne, which here first becomes visible. The two places together
possess 1100 inhabitants. From Rheidt, it is to be remarked, churches and houses have as-
sumed a dark-red colour. Near the water stand the remains of an ancient toll-station. Weiss,
on the left bank, and Porz, in the extreme angle of the bend, on the right, are both incon-
siderable places. Then follow the hamlets of Erk and Ens. On the heights to the right may
be seen the royal castle of Bensberg, on the frontier of Berg. Passing the Rothenkircher
Werth and Westhofen, grouped in three sections, we come to
Rothenkirchen, a village with 600 inhabitants. At the place still denominated the
Alte Burg, there Stood anciently the upper Roman fort which was destined to cover the forti-
fications of the Golonial Agrippinu. From this point Cologne displays itself in all its splendor
The colossal pile of the Cathedral rises majestically from the centre, and towering around it in
picturesque groups we see the spires of the churches of St. Severin, great and little St. Martin,
St. Pantaleon, the Apostles, St. Gereon, St. George, the Minorites, Maria of the Capitol, St. Cwmi-
bert, St. Andrew, St. Ursula, St. Columba, and many others. In the vicinity of so large a city,
the villages of Milote and Hübenmühle on the left bank, and Poll, on the right, in a flat
uninteresting country, are scarcely regarded. The aproaches to the town exhibit, several wind-
mills, the tall chimneys of steam-mills and factories, together with farm-buildings, public
gardens, etc. fill the lofty Baienthurm, on the left, aunounces that we are already within the
boundaries of Cologne.
Cologne. The city lies disposed in a semi-circle of about seven miles in circum-
ference, of which the Rhine constitutes the chord. The length of the inner line, from the
Baienthurm to the Thürmchen, is about 2 miles. Situated in 50° 25' N. Latitude and 6° 28′
E. Longitude from Greenwich, its elevation, above the level of the sea is, at the bridge, 115
feet. A native settlement of great antiquity was converted by the Romans into the Colonia
Agrippina, the extent of which, including the citadel etc., was not more than a third of the
present city. After their destruction by the Batavi, both town and fortress were rebuilt, but
having been taken by the Franks and their allies on their passage into Gaul, Colonia rapidly
fell into decay. After the division of Clodwig's kingdom amongst his sons, Cologne belouged,
from 511, to the territories ot the Merovingians. It was not before the accession of the
Carolingian dynasty, and the extension of the bishopric of Cologne to an crehbishopric, at the
end of the eighth century that better times began for this city, till in 863 the Normans, whose
track was marked by desolation, laid waste Cologne with fire and sword. Again rising from
its ruins, the city had, in the 12th century, attained no inconsiderable degree of prosperity.
From this period commenced its struggles with the power of the Archbishop-Electors. The
noble minded Engelbert, who treated the city with the utmost lenity, was murdered on the 7th
November 1227. Industry and commerce had at this time increased the population to far beyond
the number of 100,000, and without any extraordinary efforts, the town was able to furnish
10,000 men, capable of bearing arms. Unter such circumstances, the citizens refused to receive
an electoral garrison, in consequence of which it became the endeavour of Gonrad von Hoch-
stetten, by artifice and perseverance to re-integrate the archiepiscopal rights. By him the
celebrated Cathedral was founded in 1248; he also accorded to Cologne the highly important
stable-privilege. In the city, however, internal dissensions soon broke sout, and patrician and
plebeian stood in threatening opposition to each other. These discords were, of course, taken
advantage of by the Electors Conrad and Engelbert II, On the Easter Sunday of 1259 the
first blood was shed in civil strife. At the end of 1262 it came to open war between the
Archbishop and the towns-men. An attempt to surprise the town on the 26th November 1263,
was frustrated, as was also a conspiracy on Whitmonday 266. In October of the following
year, as the city was about to be delivered up to Engelbert II. by treachery, the Overstolzen
succeeded in repulsing him with great loss. In the same year the archbishop was taken
prisoner, brought to Cologne, and there confined in an iron cage; nor did he obtain his liberty
till 1273. On the 24th of August 1349 the houses of the Jews resident in Cologne, were set
on fire and the greater part of these unfortunate, with their families, perished in the flames,
Not for this act of cruelty, but on account of its rebellious conduct towards the Achbishops
did Cologne remain under the ban of the church and the Empire till 1377. The Reformation
21
produced fresh disturbances, and in 1685 more than 1400 Protestant families were forced to
uit the town. In the same year the last struggle took place between the aristokratic and
emokratic parties. Ochlocracy and a state of complete anarchy succeeded; but this did not
last long, for on the 20th of November 1685 the Town-council was restored. Tranquillity now
remained undisturbed till 1794, when the French took possession of the city. Three years
later, Cologne was incorporated with the French Republic, and at the peace of 1814 it was made
over to Prussia. -
The ground on which the Cathedral stands, constituted the northern angle of the Roman
fortress. On this spot, which is 55 feet above the Rhine, and after the destruction of the
castrum, it is said that a Frankish palatium was erected. The foundation-stone of the first
cathedral was laid in the year 784, and the building, which was dedicated to the apostle, Peter,
was completed in 89 years. This church having in process of time become dilapidated, and,
moreover, having been partially destroyed by fire in 1248, the work of raising the present
structure commenced in 1322. This magnificient edifice remained, unfinished, and it was not till
the present King of Prussia ascended th throne, that the interior of the building was brought
to a state of completion. The whole length of the edifice measures 440, the breadth 150 feet.
It is divided into five naves. The central and principal nave is 50 feet wide, and each of the
four lateral naves 25 feet. The height of the central nave amounts to 150 feet, that of the
side naves to 65 feet. The total number of columns is 102, the diameter of which is five feet
and a half. The stained-glass windows, 43 feet in height and 16 in breadth, are particularly
worthy of adminiration. The choir is at first divided into two naves. It is not till we advance
beyond the large chapels, that the choir in its more limited sense commences. The most re-
markable chapel is that of the Three Holy Kings, before which is the tomb of Marie de Medi-
cis, queen of France. Near this spot, over one of the altars, is the celebrated Cathedral-
picture, which is attributed to Wilhelm von Herl. Several other paintings and specimens of
elaborate carving, are particularly deserving of notice. Nor should the Chapterhouse and
Treasury remain unvisited. It is intended that the two towers shall attain an elevation of 156
metres and consist of four stories. From its summit a good view of the city and its environs
may be obtained. Adjacent to the choir there stood formerly a church, called the Mariengreden-
kirche, but in 1817 this was pulled down. Great St. Martin's, on the Altmarkt, was founded
in 690, and was at that period situated on an island, which in the course of time became united
with the left bank. Till the year 1802, a Benedictine monastery was attached to it. The principal
tower is, after the Cathedral, the most imposing structure in the town. A >Descent from the
crossº by Bois is worthy of inspection; and a series of portraits, representing the successive Abbots,
may afford matter for interesting comparisons. Like the Cathedral, the church of St. Maria of
the Capitol stands immediately above the declivity of the hill, which was encompassed by the wall
of the Roman town. According to popular tradition, the Capitol of the Agrippinians is said to
have occupied the site of this church, which was founded in 714. A nunnery for noble ladies was
adjoined, and enjoyed great consideration up to the period of its dissolution, in 1794. In the
interior of the church are many remarkable monuments, and some fine mural paintings. In the
church of St. Severin, or rather in the porch, it is said, that the Roman general Sileanus,
who caused himself to be proclaimed emperor by his troops, was slain. The present church
appears to derive its origin from the 12th, but the choir from the 11th century. It is adorned
with several fine paintings. The church of St. Pantaleon, said to have been built in 954,
belonged to an abbay of the same name, and is now employed as a Protestant place of
worship for the garrison. The parochial Protestant church belonged formerly to a canonical
foundation of the Antonites. For the present Protestant congregation, which amounts to 8000
souls, it is much too small. It contains a fine picture by John of Aix-la-Chapelle. The church
of St. Columba, a very ancient structure, is rather broad than long. The church of the
Minorites is appropriated to the service of the Catholic portion of the garrison. One of the
most imposing edifices, is the church of the Apostles, the choir of which, in imitation of St.
Sophia's in Constantinople, is formed by three semi-circles, surmounted by as many cupolas,
Two slender turrets or minarets adorn the central rotunda. Over the vaulted roofs of the other
two, rises the principal cupola, of an octagonal form. The appearance of the whole is picturesque
in the extreme. This church was founded in 1081; at the end of the same century, and a
second time a hunderd years later, the building was severely injured by fire. It was here that,
during the plague of 1357, a Madame von Adocht, while in a cataleptic fit, was buried in the
family-vault of her husband. During the night, the sexton, whose cupidity had been roused by
the sight of a valuable ring, entered the vault and endeavoured to force the circlet off her
finger; his efforts roused the lady from her trance, and, to the sacrilegious sexton's unspeak-
able terror, she forthwith arose and returned to her husband's house, It is to this occurrence,
that the figures of horses with which the front of the house was covered, referred. In the
garret-window of the house called the Stadt Prag, two white horses' heads of wood may
still be seen. . The simple beauty and regularity of St. Gereon's are admired by all cognoscenti
in architectonics. That, however, the foundation of this temple, which is built in the form of
a double Greck cross, is attributable to the Empress Helena. is very much to be doubted.
Having been destroyed by the Huns in the 10th century, it was subsequently erected in its
present shape. The side-towers and personage were added to the decagonal structure at a
later period. The porch of this church also forms a decagon, and at one time there existed
handsome cloisters, the destruction of which is much to be pitied. In the vestibule are coffins
enclosing the relics of Moorish and Theban martyrs Nor should the visitor neglect to observe
the column of granite (reported to have belonged to the ancient church of St. Helena), which
22
stants at the entrance. The church of St. Gunibert, of an elongated form, and provided with
two towers, is situated at the lower extremity of the city. It is said to date its foundation
from the seventh century. Having been in a very ruinons state, it has lately undergone a
thorough repair. The rest of the numerous churches present nothing particularly worthy of
remark. – The oldest existing structure in Cologne is the round Römer- or Musiv- (mosaic)
Thurm, on the old castle-wall, near the Roman gate. Some antiquaries, however, are of opinion,
that this tower is of Frankish, and not Roman origin. A similar tower is to be found opposite
the Laacher Hof. The Government-House (Regierungsgebäude), erected in 1830, contains apart-
ments fitted up for the reception of the Royal family. The Arsenal is contiguous to the old
Roman rampart. It contains many specimens of ancient arms and implements of war. The
Palace of Justice, built in 1824, presents the appearance of a horse-shoe drawn asunder. The
Theatre offers but little to the eye, and the Archiepiscopal Palace is scarcely to be distin-
guished from a private mansion. Behind it, there is, however, an extensive garden. The house
of Correction and civil arrest is of considerable extent; near it, on the Neumarkt, stands the
old Prison, called the Blechenpotz. The Artillery barracks occupy a building that was once
a Dominican monastery, and the Ecclesiastical Seminary is in the ancient College of the
Jesuits. This institution possesses a library containing, 65,000 volumes. Adjacent to the Semi-
nary is the Botanical Garden, in which there is an establishment for drinking mineral waters,
Wallraf's Museum will be found in an elegant building in the Trank gasse. It contains a
variety of antiquities, suits of armour, coins, paintings, and objects of Natural History. One
of the finest and most remarkable edifices of the city, is the Council-House or City-Hall, erected
in the 12th century; here are deposited the Wallraf Library and collection of copper-plate
engravings. The tower, terminated, in 1477, is a most elegant structure, and commands a good
view of the city aud country The new Store-House is a very large building of five stories,
of which the lowest one is as high as an ordinary house. It was erected in 1836. The Ex-
change has the form of a large hall; it was built in 1730, improved in the present century,
and re-opened in 1820. The foundation-stone of the City Mart, the ,Cirzenich, was laid in
the 14th century. It was long before the edifice arrived at completion, and it is said to have
cost enormous sums of money. The upper story is taken up by a saloon 175 feet in length,
70 feet in breadth, and 20 feet in height; this apartment seems at all times to have been
used for festive purposes. The Etzweiler house in the Trankgasse, is constructed in the same
style as the Gürzenich, while that of the Temple-House in the Rhine-street is the Byzantine.
The Casino, in the Augustine square, is a large, modern erection. The house indicated as the
place of Rubens' nativity, in the Sternengasse, does not date its existence from an earlier
lº than the last century. Two tablets are fixed in the wall, and these refer to P. P. Ru-
ens, born 29th June 1577 in Cologne, died 30th May 1640 in Antwerp; and to Marie de
Medicis, who died here on the 3rd July 1642. The other considerable or remarkable buildings
are: the Administration of Posts, the Police Office, the Infantry Barracks on the Neumarkt,
the Administration of Taxes, the Royal Bank, the Citizens' Hospital, the Pioneer's Barracks,
the Military Hospital, the Commissariat Magazine and Office, the #.i.W. Gymnasium,
the Orphan Asylum, the establishment for instructing Midwives, the Artillery Barracks, the
Royal Cadet School, the Deaf and Dumb Institution, the residences of the first and second
Commandants, the Main Guard, the City Pawn-House and Saving's Bank, the Militia Barracks,
and the Baienthurm. The lower part of this latter structure is said to date from the Romans;
the upper portion was erected in 1262. It is 100 feet high, embattled at the top, and is at
present used as a military prison. The bridge of boats, which connects Cologne, with Deutz, is
1250 feet in length, and is the favorite promenade of the Cologne public. There is also a rich
zoological garden, in its neighbourhood, the botanical garden (Flora) with winter gardens
and an aquarium. Since some years a beautiful iron-railway-bridge has been constructed to
unite the two banks of the Rhine. Above the entrance from the bank of the Rhine on
the side of Cologne is the equestrian Statue of Frederic William IV. in bronze, and on the
right bank side of Dentz is the equestrian Statue of William I. The winter-harbour,
a little below the town, was opened in 1813. — Cologne is a place of great commercial
activity. There are about 200 wholesale and commission Houses, and more than 700 retail
businesses, exclusive of the numerous Wine-, Grain- and Wood dealers, or the Book- and
Print-sellers. The number of manufactories is likewise considerable. — Cologne contains
at present above 125,000 inhabitants and a garrison of 8000 Prussians. Previous to its being
incorporated with the Prussian territories, the population amounted only to 40,000 souls, and
almost one third of these were beggars.
The walks in the town most to be recommended are to the Neumarkt, the Gereonsdriesch,
the Court of Appeals, the grounds near the church of the Apostles, the Botanical Garden, the
Blaubach, the Waidmarkt, St. George's Kloster (convent), the Marienplatz, the Heu (hay) and
Alt (old) Markt, the bank of the river from the Baienthurm to the Thürmchen, and the island
of Rheinau where a good public garden will be found. To these we must add the promenades
round the city, and particularly the walk to Deutz. This little town, with 13,000 inhabitants, is
situated directly opposite Cologne, and is similarly encompassed with fortifications. The Romans
had here a fortified place called Castrum Divilence or Tuitum. Constructed at the commence-
ment of the fourth century, it was destroyed by the ancient Germans. Neither of the forti-
fications of this period, nor of the temple of Hercules, nor of the bridge of Constantine, which
crossed the Rhine at this place, is there at present the slightest vestige existant. . During the
middle ages, Deutz was subjected to all the vicissitudes of war. In 1683, the works of Deutz,
constructed according to the modern system of defence, were demolished by the Austrians; and
23
*-*
it was not till 1815, that it again became a place of considerable strength. — About 2% miles
below Deutz lies
Mühlheim, a town possessing 10000 inhabitants. This place is also very ancient, a
Roman fort having stood here or in the immediate vicinity. In the village of Stammheim,
there is a beautiful garden belonging to the count of Fürstenberg, and a new church close
to the Rhine, both of which should be visited. In the royal castle of Bensberg, about seven
miles to the east of Cologne, there is a Cadet School. Proceeding for the same distance in a
southern direction, we come to Brühl, a pleasant little town with 2400 inhabitants. Here there
is a magnificent Palace, situated not far from the line of railway leading from Cologne
to Bonn. — Hotels at Cologne: Hotel of the North, Victoria, Imperial, Holland Hotel, Royal
Hotel, Cologne, Rhenish Hotel, Paris, Mayence, Vienna, Laach Hotel, the Prussian, Berg Hotel,
Hotel Germain, the Post, Hotel of Bonn and Rheinberg Hotel.
In this Panorama the publisher wishes to give a Souvenir so the visitor of our beautiful
Rhine; may it often lead back remembrance to the enchanting pictures of the majestic stream!
Perhaps we cannot better take leave of our Reader and our subject, than by borrowing the
ingenious words of one who felt so much and felt so truly :
Adieu to thee, fair Rhine ! How long delighted Adieu to thee again! a vain adieu !
The stranger fain would linger on his way! There can be no farewell to scene like thine,
Thine is a scene alike where souls united The mind is colour'd by thy very hue;
Or lonely contemplation thus might stray; And if reluctantly the eyes resign
And could the ceaseless vultures cease to prey Their cherish'd gaze upon thee, Iovely Rhine!
On self condemning bosoms, it were here, "t is with the thankful glance of parting praise;
Where Nature, nor too sombre nor too gay, More mighty spots may rise—more glaring shine,
Wild but not rude, awful yet not austere But none unite in one attaching maze
Is to the mellow Earth as Autumn to the year. The brillant, fair and soft, — the glories of old days.
The negligently grand, the fruitful bloom
Of coming ripeness, the white city's sheen,
The rolling stream, the precipice's gloom,
The forest's growth, and Gothic wall between,
The wild rocks shaped as they had turrets been
In mock'ry of man's art; and these withal
A race of faces happy as the scene
Whose fertile bounties here extend to all,
Still springing o'er thy banks, though Empires near them fall.
Byron.
1 )
2)
3)
4)
6).
Published by D. Kapp at Mayence and to be had at all booksellers :
Panorama from Mayence to Cologne, first original edition, printed in colours; description
either in French, english or german. Price 3 thalers or 9 sh. -
Panorama from Mannheim to Cologne, steel-engraving; text in above mentioned languages.
Price 2 thalers or 6 sh. -
Pocket - Panorama from Mayence to Cologne, steel-engraving, in either of the three languaes.
Price 1 thaler or 3 sh.
The Rhine from Schaffhausen to the North-sea, in three languages. Price 1 thir. or 3 sh.
New Album of the Rhine from Heidelberg and Frankfort of M. to Cologne, with 22 large
views, steel-engravings. Price 4 thalers or 12 sh. *. s
. Single views of this Album: 7 spºr. or 8 d.
The same coloured: 20 sgr. or. 2 sh.
The Tales of the Rhine, from Basel to Rotterdam, German, French or English, with several
engravings on steel, stitched. Price 1 thaler or 3 sh.
7)
8)
The same edition, richly bound, red limnen and ornamented / at the cover and
guilt-edge. Price 1 thaler 15 sgr. or 4 sh 6 d. ..
Goldberg, the German and English interpreter for emigrants to America and in general to
learn the English language. Price 8'ſ, sgr. or. 10 d.
Map of the united states of North-America, with colour-print, stitched. Price 6 sgr. or. 7 d.
º
N" ºr . .
ondorf
- - - -
- Luº ºn Coº d-tº-
cArment. Alº be cologne entierement achevee
º Nº.
º
º -
SEUM in COLN - -- - º - º - § 3 º' . * ..º ergh” *ERNST MORITZ
- - - * \º- ARNDT
º
Messdorf.
Zº º - 3.
º º
A R C H E N FE L S
CHATEAU ARCHENFELS
LO////
P./4/7′s ea.S///
N//s////
1)/////
W////w/
LZoº”//
0///
- Zºoſ/narºº’er.
- º -- zuº
s: Apollux ARIs RAPELLE Egilsº be sº Apollin AR º
- A RE MAGEN º -
sº
BURG RHEINEC K
CHATEAU RHEINE CIK.
GRAB MAL DES GENERALs
ſº Hamerstein BEI NE UWIED.
N E U WIED opºlis our ºf GENERAL Hochº A NFU wºn.
2.s"
://sº
-a a
º/arºo

oBELIS QUE DE GENERAL, HOCHE AN E U W 151).
Fº
* Leulesdorf
3”
ººnrºe
H. Hullenbg a
*G.Gonnersdſ."
W. Wollendſ.
sº
*//ZZ
º- //zza/
*Rasselstein
Azºn A/ec/a/ze
ARNOLD WAL PODE
Ammºwº ºr "ºs "
- st AD TEBUNDEs
ANDE RNA. C. H.
("A R L. D. E. R. GROSS
tº H. H. L. E MAN tº N.E.
º
-
-nº
ºn
B U R G LA H N E CIC .
citat Eau LAHN Eck
º/zºº/*
- *
ºzsº.”º
º
$9sſers;
- 8%%
('0 UVENT CAPUCINES A BURNIIDF EN
- º #
*Hºº-ºº: ==
zºsº -
- º Žz Azºsº
- º º - --~~ º
elmich ºzºzºwy
=4=****
LURLEIFELS EN
1-0 CHER LIRLEL
º º º - Ǻ º, - º sº B U R (; SONNE CIA
º, * ºº: "º - =- º \\ º º º a ºn tº ---
º º D - º º º - - º . º - º º chatbat sonseck.
-
º
Lengs ghºſt
H. HE IN E E L S
RU INES in E H II FIN FELS
In IE I'FA LN (AUB U RUIME GUE ENFELS
I, E. PALATIN AT I AU B ET RUINES DE GUTENFELS.

DIE I'FA LN, CAI B I. HINE GUT’ENFELS
| E PALATINAT 1: A tº ET RUINES DE GUTENFELs.
SCHL 0SS R HE INSTEIN
Chât'Eau RHEINst pix.
BING EN.
BE I wiſº SPADEN
G RIE CHISCIIE KAPELLE
on Apr. Lip C RecQUE A wº º
S CHI, OSS ZU BIE BRICII
CHitFAU A BIEBRICH,
Joh ANN GUTENBERG
GEB-ZU MAINZ 1998 GEST 14s:
ºf A Mayence tºs won't wº
º Mosbac
FRAUEN LOB (HEINRICH VON MEI
- - º Hº - GEB 7T MAINZ 1272 GEST 184
ºf . º. === - cº-º NE A. MAYENCE 1972 MORT 1317
sch wººzin GER GA R TEN
DLE, M O S CHE E .
º ºººº, º º, º *** * ºscºw ETZINGER GARTEN
AP Poulo TEMPEL
JARDIN A SCHWETZINGEN.
ſe den
r
º
º
MONUMENT schößFER
- IN GERN SHE IM.


zºº. Die schonſte Jungfrau silzet a Joh - zºº
º-*º "ort chem wunderhar, - º -- - - ch glaube die Wellen verſehlingen
* Hºº º ºn
/ (Q it inrem Singen -
MONMENT schöpfer
INGERNSHE IM.
MONUMENT LU THER
IN WORMS.
%Sie kammtes mit goldnem Kammeº
Und ſing ein Lied dabei. -
Jch weiſs nich was foll shedouien
º º - - - - ) º
Ilaſsich ſo traurig binº º
Ein Marchen aus alten Zeiten, 6.0 ſº 2 º'
Das kommt mir nicht aus dem Sinn. sº Das haſ eine wundersame, - 2}
* t sº -"
Den Schiffer im kleinen Schiffe
Ergreift es mit wildem Weh; a `ſ.
Er ſchaut nicht die Felsenriffe, s
Er schauf nur hinauf in die Hoh.
º
* º – º
• Die Luftist kühl undes dunkelt
º Undruhig flieſst der Rhein:
2. Der Gipfel des Berges ſunkel
Jm Abendsonnenschein;
º -
Sie kammt ſhr goldnes Haar & “”ºn HER Cº
- -- - - -—- - Verlag ºn Mainz -
Die Lore-Lei gelhan. *
-
__º
§
\
º
º
º,
º
- -
º - º- sº- 'º -
º - º º
– º,
º tº I do not know what it signities-
That I am so sorrowful? “
Je no sais, ce que éela veut dire.
Que je sois si triste? º - - ---
Une égende de l'antiquité. * A fable of old Times so terrificº
Me revient toujours dans l'esprit. !
Leaves my hear so thoughºut
º
-
The air is cool and it darkens.
--~ *
And calmly ſlows the Rhine; tº
The summit of the mountain ºarken
In evening sunshine line.
The most beautiful Maiden enginees
Above wonderfully there. *
Her beautiful golden attire º
She combs her golden hair.
.
-
Lair est frais, il ſaiſ obscure,
Le Rhin coule paisiblement.
Lepic de la montagne reluiſ.
Aux derniers rayons du Soleil.
La plus belle des Ondimes est assise
Avec un charme inexprimable. ."
Ses bijoux d'or reluisent.
Elle fail ses beaux cheveux bloºds.
- ----->
Semire dans le Rhin
Cologne celle ville majestueuse.
Ce beau fleuve divin.
As es Sa. Cathedrale respectueuse. With golden comb so lustrous.
And thereby a song sings.
It has a tone so wondrous.
That powerful melody rings.
Elle arrange ses cheveux ave" " peigned or
En chantant un air favori!.
Particulierement mélodieux.
Et très fort en même (emps.
º
The shipper in the little ship
It effects with woes sad might:
He does not see the rocky clip-º-
He only regards the dreaded heº.
| believe the turbulent waves º
Swallow at last shipper and boe
She with her singing craves * -
All to visit her magic moat. -
Lebatelier dans da petite nacelle. .
Est saisi d'une peine eſtrayante.
I he considere pasles écueils,
II regarde toujours vers la hauteur.
Je crois que les vagues enelouliron.
Ala in le hatelier et sa nacelle.
Et la cause en est
Lore-Lei par son chant.





































































































































|
| l anorama of the |
| from Mannheim to Cologne
| | | | | | | | | | |
|
|
| | | |
| de Mannheim à Coloune
| e | 5 v i e n et t e s et des
|
| | D | libraire et dans toutes les librairies de l Allemagne et de l ue |
|
D ' app publis ne l ayence |
| | | | | ou a o a respe ooo se
|
|
|