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TRAVELS
GEORGIA, PERSIA, ARMENIA,
ANCIENT BABYLONIA,
&c. &c.
puniso the years 1817, 1818, 1819, AND 1820.
By Sir ROBERT KER PORTER,
WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS OF PORTRAITS, coSTUMEs,
ANTIQUITIES, &c.
IN Two VoI. UM Es.
ſ:
- LONDON:
PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BRowN,
PATERNOSTER-ROW,
1821.
sº
'TO
HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY
GEORGE THE FOURTH.
SIRE,
WITH those principles of devoted duty to Your
Majesty's Royal Person, which must belong to every
true Englishman, these Travels are laid at the foot
of the British Throne.
They describe countries of the East, to which
British arts and learning lent their light three hun-
dred years ago; and they would show that the still
more munificent stream of essential knowledge which
has been dispensed thither from this kingdom, since
- - A 2
iv. DEDICATION.
Your Majesty's accession to its government, is of
a nature to attach, as well as to enlighten; to prove
that the most extended sceptre rests in the mind
and in the heart; and by such means the King of
England's empire is the globe.
With this proud feeling of a British subject, the
narrator of these Travels brings back from all lands
the unalienable principles of affection and duty to
the august Sovereign of his country; for whose
most gracious acceptance of this humble tribute
of devoted loyalty, the writer has not terms suf-
ficiently to express the deep gratitude with which
through life he is, -
SIRE,
Your Majesty's -
Most Dutiful Subject, and Servant,
ROBERT KER PORTER.
May, 1821. -
PR E FA C E.
*9
IN offering this narrative to the public, the writer is conscious
of no personal vanity as an author; that being a character, in
its usual important sense, to which he forms no pretension.
During three years' travelling in the East, he kept a regular
journal of all he saw worthy observation; and he wrote his re-
marks with the impression of the moment. From this Diary,
sanctioned by opportunities of comparing his own remarks with
others, and first with second impressions, he collected the
matter of these two volumes; arranging their subjects, without
altering their language to give it literary grace; a task that
might have been more than difficult to a man who has passed
the chief part of his life in foreign countries. Hence, as he lays
claim to nothing of what is commonly called style, in writing,
he trusts in the candour of his reader to judge him by his
pretensions alone; truth, in what he relates, and fidelity in
what he copies. A few extracts from a letter with which he
was honoured by His Excellency Mons. Olinen, the Russian
Imperial Secretary of State, President of the Academy of Fine
Arts, &c., a short time previous to the commencement of his
journey, may be deemed the text on which he has proceeded:
Translation of part of a Letter to Sir Robert Ker Porter, &c.
4;
“I hasten to communicate to you the result of my observ-
ations on the different travels, given to the world on the
subject of Persia. My remarks have for their object a distinct
illustration of those precious monuments of antiquity which yet
remain at Chehel-minar, or Persepolis; at Mourg-aub, which,
according to the felicitous explanation of Mr. Morier, should be
Pasargadae, with the tomb of Cyrus; and, finally, the beautiful
relics at Nakshi-Roustam, Be-Sitoon, &c.
“ When comparing the engravings in the Travels of Chardin,
Le Brun, and Niebuhr, which represent the same subject, we
find them so utterly contradictory to each other, as not to bear
the smallest pretensions to fidelity; being rather vague memo-
randums, than any thing of veritable outline. I made an
accurate copy of one of these subjects, as it is represented by
these three several travellers; and you may see, by casting your
eye on the specimen from each, how little dependance is to be
placed in the pencil of any of the trio. Here, you may observe
the same figures of the same Persepolitan bas-relief, transmitted
to us in three perfectly different forms of outline. The bas-
relief was cut in very hard stone, which I have had an oppor-
tunity of knowing from a fragment that was brought to St.
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PREFACE. vii.
Petersburgh; and the same personages which Le Brun represents
in the year 1704, with their noses, mouths, and beards mutilated,
re-appear, quite whole in every feature, in the drawings of
Niebuhr from Persia, in the year 1765. You will confess, that
without some miracle, both these accounts cannot be true;
yet this phenomenon actually presents itself on the plates of
these two travellers; and Chardin shews the like inaccuracy to
so great an extent, that I know not to which to yield any
belief. * In short, I cannot but repeat the old French proverb,
* A beau mentir qui vient de loin.”
“In this great perplexity to a lover of antiquity, I place my
confidence in your plain dealing; that you will decide the con-
troversy, by taking the trouble to make your drawings on the
spot, and with scrupulous exactness copying the object before
you line by line. Inideed, I conjure you, in the name of the
Holy Antiquity, to mark down nothing but what you actually
See ; nothing suppose; nothing repair. I only beg you to re-
present the original ancient remains “tali quali, in statu quo.”
“By this simple matter-of-fact representation, we shall at
last obtain a true idea of the progress which the arts made
amongst the Persians; and may become better acquainted with
the forms of their ancient writing; whether they did, or did not
divide their letters with stops, and each word with a cuneiform
character placed obliquely. Besides, I hope through your ob-
* See Sir Robert Ker Porter's copy of the same bas-relief, Plate XXXVII.
viii PREFACE.
servations, to be put in possession of an accurate description of
the ancient Persian bow, its shape, and the manner of attaching
its string; and, indeed, from your remarks and sketches, to be
enabled to judge which of the three above-mentioned travellers
are, on the whole, most correct in their drawings of the remains
at Persepolis and Mourg-aub. By looking at my next plate, you
will perceive the errors which appear to have crept into the copy
given of the inscription in Persepolitan letters, found amidst the
ruins at Mourg-aub.” I also anticipate your shewing us the
precise form of the Pehlivi and Zend characters; and, perhaps,
you may find it in your power to give a true explanation of the
Persian beit or distich, engraved on the gold ring that was found
in the ancient city of Torjok, in the great road from St. Peters-
burgh to Moscow. The ring is in the possession of His Imperial
Majesty; and you will find it represented on my fifth plate.
“In conclusion, I repeat, draw only what you see Correct
nothing; and preserve, in your copies, the true character of the
originals. Do not give to Persian figures a French tournure, like
Chardin; nor a Dutch, like Van Bruyn, (Le Brun;) nor a Ger-
man, or rather Danish, like Niebuhr ; nor an English grace,
like some of your countrymen; in your portraits of the frag-
ments at Nakshi-Roustam. Adieu. *
- “Your faithful Friend and Cousin,
“A. OLINEN.”
* See Sir R. K. Porter's copy of the same inscription, Plate XIII. It may be
useful to my general readers, to mention here, that the appellations “Persepolitan,”
“ cuneiform,” “arrow-headed,”“nail-headed’ characters, all mean the same style of
writing; mostly found at Persepolis and Babylon.
PREFACE. ix
What refinement of taste in some of Sir Robert Ker Porter's
predecessors may have caused them to change, almost uncon-
sciously, a scrupulous curiosity in observing the progress of the
art, determined him to copy line by line, defect or beauty;
whatever he saw, to pourtray; transcribing shape of person,
character of feature, and fashion of apparel, to the minutest
particle. An ardent lover and sedulous practiser of the arts,
from childhood to the present time, his eye and his hand being
alike familiar to every detail of the pencil or the chisel, precision
in these respects is as natural to him, as embellishment to those,
who may be amateurs of the arts, without having actually studied
the principle of its schools. Therefore, to such an undeviating
fidelity of portraiture, the writer of this work avows his claim.
A similar experience in military objects, assisted his observa-
tions on the arms of the people, ancient and modern, of the
nations through which he travelled, and greatly facilitated his
measurements and plans of the sites and elevations of certain
cities and places of renown and interest. He also wishes to
state, that the large map of the Persian empire, &c. is laid down
by himself; chiefly from his own personal observations, assisted
by those of Major Monteith, of the Madras engineers, who is
now a resident in Persia; and where their joint personal inform-
ation did not reach, both published and MSS. geographical
observations were consulted, while the writer was in the East,
and, subsequently, every thing useful that could be found in the
Depôt Imperial des Cartes at St. Petersburgh. The smaller
routes are entirely from his own remarks; and should they, with
the preceding, meet the attention of Major Rennell, the vener-
VOL. I. al
X PREFACE.
able father of this branch of geography in England, his approval
would be one of the highest gratifications the compiler of these
maps could receive; while he hopes their minute details may
smooth the way to future travellers.
This volume ends at the termination of the author's journey
through Persia Proper. The next will comprise Babylonia,
Kourdistan, and those other countries of the empire, which
formed the subject of so many pages of deep interest in the
old histories of the East, whether by classic or native writers.
Specimens of the antiquities which the author brought from
those countries, he has deposited in different museums; but
chiefly in those of the united kingdoms under the sceptre of his
own sovereign; the British Museum, Edinburgh, and Dublin.
All his coins, which are numerous, though rare, are yet in his
own possession.
It were an endless task to make his acknowledgments to every
person, who, from his first setting out, till his return to his
country, facilitated his pursuits, and was hospitable to him in
his travels. A few names he has mentioned in this way, in the
course of his journal; and even those, a friend, in casting his
eye over the MSS., pronounced to be too many; adding, that
a succession of encomiums might be deemed more than natural.
But, if the reader will recollect that these persons are mostly
stationed in new establishments, where power must be main-
tained by the best talents; and that such ministers, when found,
PREFACE. xi
must be so described; no surprise need be excited at a word of
gratitude; and patience at least, may be granted to the tribute
which is paid to the contemporary worth that makes a brother-
hood of every nation.
To clear away a little the maze of eastern and classic names
which generally presents itself whenever an ancient king of Persia
occurs in these pages, a list of the sovereigns of the empire,
Medes and Persians, is here subjoined. The table of contents
of the volume is added, something between the copiousness of
an index, and the brevity of a mere head of chapters.
P. S. The author of these Travels being abroad, the transcri-
ber takes this opportunity of apologizing to the public for some
errors in the orthography of proper names, which have crept into
the work from the difficulty of decyphering the hand, or rather
character, of the MS. transcribed.
L IS T
OF
THE PERSIAN MON ARCHS,
ACCORDING TO
NATIVE AND FOREIGN AUTHORS.
THE DYNASTY OF MAH-ABAD,
Recorded in the Dabistan, a work compiled from ancient Gueber fragments.
This line is considered fabulous, or antediluvian, and begins with,
MAH-ABAD. -
He had thirteen descendants, who reigned monarch and high-priest, till
the last prince of his race,
AZERABAD,
Abdicated the throne, and retired into solitude. A time of terrible anarchy
succeeded, until the rise of a new succession of kings, which are registered
in the pages of Ferdousi and others, under the name of the
PAISHDADIAN DYNASTY, OR DISTRIBUTORS OF J USTICE.
KAIOMURS, - -
The founder of the line, has been supposed to represent Noah, or one of his
immediate descendants. He is also called GIL-SHAH, or King of the Earth.
Hous HUNG, -
The first worshipper of the element of fire, under the name of the Light
of God.
xiv LIST OF THE PERSIAN MONARCHs.
TAHAMURS
Introduces the worship of images.
JEMSHEED, * e
Recorded as the founder of Persepolis, and contemporary with Zohawk
tyrant of Assyria, supposed to be the NIMRoD of Scripture.
FERIDoon.
ERIG.
MANUCHEBER.
NouzER.
ZooH,-KERSHAP, ARBACEs of the Greeks, and TIGLATH PILESER
of the Scriptures. &
With him closes the Paishdadian race, according to the native historians.
More regular and authentic accounts, Greek and native, record the next
line, called the
Began to reign, KAIANIAN DYNASTY.
B. C. - *
709. ............KAI-KOBAD,-DEJoces of the Greeks, and ARPHAXAD of the
Bible.
During his reign, and those of his immediate descendants, the celebrated
Persian chief, Rustam, or Roostam, distinguished himself in the service of
Persia.
656.............PHRAontes,
The son of the preceding. He is omitted by the Persian historians; and
his reign may probably be included in the very long one they ascribe to
Kai-Kobad. Their dates are very inaccurate, and the confusion of places
and persons, often as much so. -
634. ............KAI KAoos,-CYAXARES I. of the Greeks.
In his time Nineveh was destroyed by the king of Babylon and himself,
who had united their forces against it.
594. ............ASTYAGES,
The son of the preceding, is omitted by the Persians, and so is his son,
- 559. ............CYAXARES II.—DARIUS, the Mede, of the Bible,
Both these reigns being included, by the native writers, in that of the
succeeding one. - \ -
*
586. ............KAI KHOSRoo,-CYRUs of the Greeks, and of the Scriptures.
The Persians make his reign commence B.C. 599, by their omission of
his immediate predecessor. He is succeeded by his son,
LIST OF THE PERSIAN MONARCHS. XV
B. C.
529. ............CAMBYSEs,
Who is omitted by the Persians; as is also Smerdis, the Magian, who
usurped the kingdom, B. C. 522, if he is not intended by
LoRHASP, .
Whose supposed reign includes the two preceding; and who appears a
confused personage, between Smerdis the Magian, and Hystaspes the patron
of Zoroaster, and the father of
521. ............GUSTASP,-DARIUS HYSTASPEs of the Greeks.
He new-modelled the ancient Mithratic religion, under the auspices of
Zoroaster; and is said to have been the first coiner of gold in Persia, hence
the name of Darics.
485. ............ISFUNDEER,-XERXES of the Greeks.
He commanded the famous expedition into Greece; and was one of the
most favourite heroes of the Persians.
465.............BAHMAN, ARDASHIR DIRODASTE,--ARTAXERXES LONGIMANUs of
the Greeks, (and AHASUERUs of the Book of ESTHER,) suc-
ceeded by his son,
424. e e º O C C C C & ...XERXES,
Who was murdered by his brother Sogdianus, who was slain by his
brother Ochus, who, taking the name of
423.............DARAB I.-DARIUS NoTHUS of the Greeks,
Was the husband of the celebrated Parysatis, the mother of Cyrus
the Younger, the prince whose fortunes Xenophon followed into Persia.
The character of this ambitious queen appears to identify her with Homai,
to whom the building of one of the palaces at Persepolis has been attributed.
Darius Nothus was succeeded by his son,
405. ............ARTAXERXES MNEMON,
So called from his extraordinary memory. His brother Cyrus, at the
instigation of his mother Parysatis, rebelled against him; and perishing in
the contest, gave rise to Xenophon's ever memorable retreat of the Ten
Thousand. Artaxerxes reigned forty-six years, sharing his power one year
with his eldest son Darius, (B. C. 361.) but who was cut off in the same. On
the death of the old king, he was succeeded by his son Ochus, who took the
name of . • ,
353. ............ARTAXERXES OCHUS,
This most barbarous of all the Persian native princes, was succeeded by
his son, e
xvi
B. C.
337.
335.
LIST OF THE PERSIAN MONARCHS.
............Anses, or ARSEMUs. -
Neither this prince, nor any of his predecessors, until Darius Nothus,
the Darab I. of the Persians, are mentioned by the native historians; who
pass at once from Darab I. to Darab II.; the latter being the great-grand-
son of the former. Arses reigned only two years, and was succeeded by
............DARAB II.-DARIUS Codom ANUs of the Greeks.
Alexander the Great invaded Persia, in this reign, and seized the empire.
DYNASTY OF THE GREEKs.
33 1.
250.
............IscANDEER,-ALEXANDER THE GREAT.
From this period the empire was governed by the descendants of his
generals, till, about eighty years after they had divided the empire amongst
them, Ashk or Arsaces, a Parthian chief, wrested it from their hands, and
established a line of kings, of which himself was the first.
ARSACEDIAN DYNASTY, OR PARTHIAN EMPIRE.
............ASHK. I.-ARSACEs.
AsHK II. —ARSACEs.
SHAHPoor, or SAPOR.
This monarch was contemporary with Antiochus the Great. Amongst the
native historians there is a lapse of two hundred years, between Shahpoor
and a Parthian prince called Baharam-Gudurz; and in this blotted page,
we miss the great names of Phrahates, Orodes, and above all that of
Mithridates, which form such brilliant passages in the Roman accounts of
the Parthian empire; and which, when marshalled according to the accession
of the princes who bore them, would fill the gap till after the commence-
ment of the Christian era, and to within a few years of
BAHARAM GUDURz.
VoIAs, -VoI.AGESEs I. of the Romans.
HoRMUz, — ARTABANES IV. of the Romans.
NARs1. .
FERoz1.
KHosroo,-VoI.AGESEs II. of the Romans.
Volas,—VoIAGESEs III. of the Romans.
VoIASIN. - - -
ARDUAN, or ARDAVAN,-ARTABANUs W. of the Romans.
He was the last of the Parthian race, being slain by the founder of the
/
LIST OF THE PERSIAN MONARCHS. . . xvii
SASSANIAN DYNASTY, OR REVIVED KAIANIAN LINE.
A. D., -
223. . . . . . . . . . . . . ARDASHIR BABIGAN,-ARTAXERXES of the Western Historians.
He derived his descent from Isfundeer (Xerxes), the son of Darius
Hystaspes, by a daughter of the Great Cyrus. He resigned his crown to
his son, - -
240.............SHAPoor, −SAPort I. of the Romans.
This monarch defeated and made prisoner Valerian, the Roman emperor.
271. ............HoRMUz I.-HoRMISDAs of the Greeks.
272, ............BAHARAM. I.-VARANES I. of the Romans.
276. ............BAHARAM II. —VARANES II. of the Romans.
293.............BAHARAM III.-VARANEs III. of the Romans.
293. ............NARSI,- NARSEs of the Romans. .
This king defeated the Emperor Galerius, and made himself master of
Armenia.
303. . . . . . . . . . . . . HoRMUz II.-HoRMISDAs II. of the Romans.
3.10.............SHAHPOOR II.-SAPOR II. of the Romans.
This monarch, surnamed Zoolaktaf, was contemporary with the emperors
Julian, Constantius, Jovian, &c., and achieved great successes over them
all. He reigned nearly seventy years.
380. ............ARDASHIR II.-ALTAXERXES II. of the Romans.
385. ............SHAHPOOR III.—SAPOR III. of the Romans.
390. ............BAHARAM IV.-VARANES IV. of the Romans.
This prince founded the city of Kermanshah. He was the brother of his
immediate predecessor SHAHPoon III., and both were the sons of the great
Shahpoor Zoolaktaſ, whose exploits are celebrated in the sculptures of Takt-i-
Bostan.
404. ............YEZD1jind ULATHIM.–Izdejin TEs of the Greeks.
420. . . . . . . . . . . . . BAHARAM. V., surnamed Gour.
This prince was educated by Arab chiefs, and is celebrated as one of the
best monarchs of Persia. He was drowned in hunting the wild ass.
438.............YezdiginD II, surnamed SIPAHDost, —IzdBJIRTEs II. of the Ro-
tºp mans. • ?
456. ............HoRMUz. -
458. ............FIRozE,—PEROSEs of the Greeks.
484. . . . . . . . . . . . . PALLASCH,-VALENs of the Romans.
488. ............KoBAD,-CABADEs of the Greeks.
531. ............ Noush IRVAN, -CHosroes THE GREAT of the Romans.
This sovereign gained many victories over the generals of the Emperor
VOL. I. b
xviii LIST OF THE PERSIAN MONARCHS.
A. D.
Justinian. Mahomed the Arch-impostor was born about ten years before
the death of this truly great monarch.
579.............HoRMUz III.; dethroned, A. D. 590.
590. ............BAHARAM CHOUBAN, a usurper.
591. ............KHOSROO PURVIZ,
The son of Hormuz III. This prince made himself master of Jerusalem.
The celebrated beauty, Shereen, or Shirene, was his queen, who sacrificed
herself on his grave.
628.............SCHIROUCH, GHUBAD, or KobAD, reigned eight months.
ARDASHIR, reigned seven months.
Poor AN-DokHT, or TooHAN-DokHT.
This princess was raised to the throne on the death of all her brothers,
being the daughter of Khosroo Purviz. She reigned sixteen months,
and was succeeded by her cousin, or lover,
SHAH SHENENDAH, who reigned only one month, succeeded by
ARZEM-DOKHT.
This princess was another daughter of Khosroo Purviz; and, after some
confusion, the throne was filled by
632. ............YEZDIJIRD,-ISDEJIRTES III. of the Greeks.
The son of Schirouch, grandson of Khosroo Purviz, and the last of the
Sassanian race. He lost his kingdom to the Arabs, or Saracens under
Omar, A. D. 641; and his life shortly after, by the hands of a treacherous
peasant, with whom he had sought shelter. His family, from the time of
Ardashir Babigan to himself, had ruled Persia four hundred and fifteen
years; and in his overthrow it thus became subject to the
651. ............CALIPHS of BAGDAD, -
Who governed Persia, by means of viziers, or rather different lines of
independent princes, under that inferior title. To these succeeded the
StJLTANs of GHIZNI,
A Turkoman race; of whom Mahmoud's name is particularly illustrious,
having gathered together the fragments of ancient Persian history which
had escaped destruction by the caliphs. After the sultans came the
SELJOOKEE DYNASTY,
A Tartar tribe, who, with their Attabeg followers, governed Persia above
two hundred years; until Halukoo, the son of Zingis, or Ghengis Khan,
established the
LIST OF THE PERSIAN MONARCHS. xix
A. D.
1206. MOGUL DYNASTY,
Which continued till the sons of Timour-lung, or Tamerlane, with
20,000 Tartars, over-ran Persia, A. D. 1387, and seated their posterity
on the throne. They reigned until A. D. 1505, when the Usbeg tribes of
the Black and White Sheep wrested it from their hands. And these again,
gave place to the founder of the *
SEFI DYNASTY.
SHAH ISMAIL.
This sovereign proclaimed himself of the race of the Caliph Ali, and gave
a new explication of the Koran. He was succeeded by his son,
1523. ............TAMASP.
Elizabeth, queen of England, sent out Anthony Jenkinson as embassador
to this prince, he was succeeded by his son,
1576. ............ISMAIL II.-Succeeded by his brother,
1577.............MAHOMED KHODABUND.
Humza Mirza, died by assassination, A. D. 1585. He was the son of
Mahomed Khodabund, but never was king; and was the father of
1585.............SHAH ABBAS THE GREAT.
Sefi Mirza, his eldest son, died by murder; and his son Sam succeeded
his grandfather Abbas. The new monarch took the name
1627. ............SHAH SEFI;—succeeded by his son.
1641. ............ABBAS II.
1666. ............SHAH SoLIMAN.
1694. ............SHAH SULTAN HousSEIN.
With this prince, it may be said, closed the line of Sefi kings.
The AFGHANs having conquered Persia under
1722. ............MAHMOUD, THE AFGHAN.
1725 ............Ash Roof.
The celebrated Kooli Khan recovered Persia from the Afghans, and, for
a brief time, restored to the throne of his ancestors,
1727. ............SHAH THAMAS, or TAMASP.
This prince was the son of the murdered Shah Sultan Houssein, of the
house of Sefi; and who was himself deposed, and afterwards assassinated by
the rebel and usurper Kooli Khan; who, mounting the throne, assumed
the name
1736. C e o O C C C C Q ...NADIR SHAH ;
After whose death a period of wretched confusion ensued, under different,
b 2
XX LIST OF THE PERSIAN MONARCHS.
rival chiefs, till the elevation of the head of the Zund tribe, under the title of
Vakeel, or lieutenant of the empire, but the real sovereign,
1753.............KERIM. KHAN.
He was succeeded.successively by his three sons, and family,
1779.............ABBUL FUTTEH KHAN.
1780. ............ALI MoURAD KHAN.
1784. ............JAFFIER KHAN. O'
1788. ............LOOFT ALI KHAN.
On the defeat and death of this last prince of the Zund family, the suc-
cession gave place to the
KAJUR DYNASTY.
1788. ............AGA MAHOMED KHAN,
Who was succeeded by his nephew, the present King of Persia,
1798. ............FUTTEH ALI SHAH.
C O N TENTS.
BANKs of the Dwina and Dneiper.......'
PAGE
1
Mskett, ancient Capital of Georgia......
The Kur, or Cyrus of Georgia...........
Tiflis..............................
Mount Elborus...................
Georgians....................................
Circassians....................................
Avalanches in the Caucasus...............
Range of the Caucasus.....................
Banks of the Bambek......................
Branch of the Mosschian Hills...........
Turkish Frontier on the Arpatchia......
Armenia “....................................
Ruins of Anni................................
Monastery of Kotchivan...................
Depopulated Armenia......................
Mount Ararat...............................
Monastery of Eitch-mai-Adzen...........
Plain of Ararat..............................
Erivan.—Frontier of Persia...............
The Sardar of Erivan......................
Ruins of Ardashir...........................
Villages and Villagers......................
Mountain of Serpents.......................
Nackshivan...................................
The Araxes of Armenia....................
Azerbijan, part of Ancient Media.........
Marande......................................
Tabreez.......................................
Palace at Tabreez...........................
Royal Baths.................................
Saloons of the Palace.......................
PAGE
103
11 I
1 14
127
I 30
131
138
145
150
158
167
170
171
172
176
179
182
186
191
195
2OO
203
208
21 I
212
212
2I 6
21 7
22()
229
The Steppe, or Russian Desert...........
Odessa.........................
Nicolaieff.....................................
Grave of Howard, near Kherson.........
Steppe Tumuli...............................
Taurida.......................................
Sea of Azoff..................................
Banks of the Don...........................
Count Platoff.................................
New Tcherkask..............................
Cossacks......................................
Grand Duke Michael......................
Old Tcherkask............
Government of the Caucasus.............
First View of the Caucasus...............
Banditti of the Caucasus..................
Enters Asia, at Mozdock..................
Banks of the Terek........................
Carayan to Tiflis............................
General Del Pozzo.........................
Tchetchinzi Tribe of the Caucasus......
Wlady Caucasus, the Pass into Georgia
Road through the Mountains.............
Ancient Castle at Derial...................
Passes of the Caucasus.....................
Ossi Tribe, near the Kasibeck Mountain
Night Travelling in the Mountains......
Kristawaja, or Mountain of the Cross...
Good Gara...................................
Quarantine at Annanour..................
Kartelania, ancient Iberia.................
3
6
12
15
18
2O
21
23
26
29
31
36
4, 1
43
44
47
48
50
53
58
60
66
68
71
72
77
84
88
9]
95
101
.232
234.
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TRAVELS
IN
GEO R GIA, PERSIA.
&c. &c. .
THE extraordinary political situation in which, not Europe only,
but every country of the globe, has been involved during these
last twenty-five years, has, in a most wonderful manner, brought
all nations, remote and near, in a kind of scenic review before
the observing eye. Places in ancient history, which time had
thrown at such a distance in our minds, that they seemed almost
as much passed into the grave as the persons their historians
recorded, have not only risen before us, but appear as if at our
very doors, touching us, in a thousand ways, by the sympathy
of strangely associating interests. In short, the principle of
the interests of any one particular kingdom, which, half a century
ago, would not have been considered beyond the limits of its
immediate neighbours, our portentous times have made so
consequential to the security of all others, that the field. of
combat for one nation's rights has become the whole world.
Hence the general impulse which has lately hurried the in-
habitants of one half of the globe to visit the regions of the
VOL. I. B
2 THE DWINA.
other half. Armies have marched from climate to climate, to
defend the liberties of their own country, on the invaded shores
of distant allies; and thus found safety, as well as renown, in
protecting the rights of others. Liberal speculation, and gene-
rous curiosity, (which foresaw a different empire than that of
mere human ambition, in this extraordinary circumnavigation
of the world,—the empire of civilized mind over brutal force!)
these worthy motives, in the persons of the philosopher, the
man of taste, the philanthropist, and the merchant, followed in
the same track, eager to view places which modern story had
brought into celebrity, and to visit countries which the past and
the present cover with an ever-during fame. This latter impulse
had long been very powerful with me; and, in the autumn of
1817, an opportunity occurred of gratifying a desire I had
formed of travelling to Persia, across a range of countries which
sacred, as well as profane history, has rendered peculiarly in-
terésting to every man who finds pleasure in comparing men as
they are, with what they have been ; and the recent progress of
Asiatic regeneration, with the full growth of civilisation as it is
displayed in Christian Europe. -
I left St. Petersburgh on the 6th of August (O.S.), 1817,
for Odessa on the Black Sea; intending to embark at that port
for Constantinople, and thence proceed to Persia. As I tra-
velled en courier to the Turkish capital, time would not allow me
to halt long at any place in my way: hence, my readers must
expect little more than an itinerary of posts, till it became
necessary to alter my route from the waves of the Euxine to
the mountains of Caucasus. Having taken the usual road from
St. Petersburgh to the banks of the Dwina, I passed that river
on the 20th of August (O.S.) by a floating bridge. It crossed
* * ~...~ *-* * *…***** Ex....: *.*.*** e ºr " * *- : * * x - , ----. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .-- ~... -->~~...~... ... ;--- ~~~~~~<!--. -- ~ ******** gº sº. fºrt.-- * . . . ."
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MOGILOFF AND TCHERNING OFF. 3
the stream where the bed was not very broad; neither were the
waters so rapid there, nor the banks so high, as in most other
places. As we travelled onward, it was gratifying to see the
country which, five years ago, showed only the footsteps of war
and devastation, now exhibiting every mark of peace and happy
industry. - i
Proceeding through Sourage, we passed on to Vitepsk; and in
the evening reached Mogiloff, a town pleasantly situated on the
shores of the Dneiper, with fine churches and handsome houses.
From my first starting, to this place, the road had been un-
varyingly good, excepting a small tract of bad land which pre-
sented itself soon after our leaving Sourage. Mogiloff is about
seven hundred and eighty-three wersts from St. Petersburgh; —
and the reader must hold in mind, that the calculation makes
two English miles comprise about three wersts Russian. We
now travelled over rough ground, through wild forests, occa-
sionally intersected with spots in cultivation; till, on approaching
Tcherningoff, we entered a country quite open. All was level
and bare of wood, like vast downs, for a considerable extent
before we arrived at the town; but a few tracts, scattered with
trees, were discernible in its vicinity. The roofs of the cottages
are thatched here, instead of being covered with wood, and the
walls look neat and cheerful, from being whitened with a mixture
of lime and mud. We crossed, by a long bridge of timber,
over the Sojy to the town, which, being built on an eminence,
gives a very imposing effect to its churches and monasteries.
On quitting Tcherningoff, and its thin remnant of woods, we
found ourselves again in the open country, which now seemed
boundless. It is known in Russia by the appellation Steppe, or
Desart; being an expanse of several hundred wersts, varied from
B 2
4. - THE STEPPE.
the common acceptation of its name, by the culture of corn,
and the animation of innumerable windmills. The peasants
were busily employed, gathering in the harvest. *
On different parts of this vast plain, and not far distant from
the road, I was struck with the successive appearance of some
thousands of the tumuli, those mansions of the dead of ages
past, which overspread the face of this country, even to the
shores of the Black Sea, and nearly to the banks of the Kuban.
My meditations on their design and origin were interrupted
by our arriving at the town of Kremanchuck. It is situated on
low and swampy ground, but surrounded by dry and deep sands.
A few withering trees peer through the ungenial soil, yielding
a scanty shade to the miserable garden of what is called the
palace of this wretched place. On quitting Kremanchuck, we
passed the Dneiper again, (the river winding about in many
contrary directions,) over another wooden bridge. This was
nearly a mile in length, and so constructed as to rise and fall
with the action of the water. For many wersts onward, the
road was of deep and loose sand; consequently our progress
was slow and encumbered, till we regained the Steppe. There,
our wheels moved faster, but it was long before they brought
us in sight of any thing new or interesting. Nothing interrupted
the monotonous line of country, except here and there a steep
ravine; within which, though only to be discovered by arriving
on its brink, might be found a few earth-built huts, and perhaps
as many stunted trees, like the inhabitants, hardly nourished
by so rough a bosom. -
The next post is Elizabethgrad, one thousand and eighty
wersts from Moscow. The site of this post bears a more cheer-
ful aspect. It is situated on each side of a ravine, which, being
more capacious in breadth than any I had yet seen, admitted
THE STEPPE. 5
the erection of more comfortable habitations. A mud fort, of a
very respectable height, stands on one of its acclivities, effectually
commanding the approach to the town, by the road I came. A
small stream, called the Yegal, flows through the little valley
or dell, dividing the town, and adding much to its cleanliness
and freshness. The churches, as is the case almost universally
throughout the Russian empire, are the first objects of attention
in point of architecture, and are here even elegant. The houses,
being white-washed, appear exceedingly nice externally; but
whether the same purity would be found within, may be doubted
were we to judge by the tout ensemble of the persons who come
out at the doors. This place, in common with all the others I
had lately passed through, is mostly inhabited by Jews. From
scarcity of wood, the dung of cattle is used for purposes of fuel;
and the inhabitants collect it with great care, forming it into
cakes, which they dry in the summer sun, for culinary and
winter use. . * *
After leaving Elizabethgrad, no cultivation varied the face of
the Steppe. All was one interminable tract of grazing ground,
for innumerable herds of horned cattle, sheep, and horses. An
eye accustomed to the farm-enclosures of England can have no
idea of the effect of such a scene; so vast, so full of animal life,
and yet giving the traveller such an impression of desert
solitariness. -
We arrived at Nicolaieff, (about one thousand three hun-
dred and thirteen wersts from Moscow;) and after a short stay
passed the river Boug in a large passage boat, three miles from
the town. The width of the river, where we crossed, may be a
mile and three quarters. We ascended a steep and sandy bank,
on disembarking, and at its summit found the post-house. From
6 § ODESSA.
thence the road continued flat and uninteresting; though some
parts were prolific in water-melons, a very grateful fruit in sul-
try weather. In many places they grew wild; and my little
party did not spare their refreshing beverage. We reached the
village of Koblinka early in the morning, and thence I had my
first view of the Black Sea.
Koblinka is situated close to a large piece of water, called a
Lyman; a name given in this country to any estuary which
accident has separated from its originating sea; and this Lyman
is the remains of what once formed a branch of the Euxine, but
which, in process of time, was cut off from its parent waves by
the accumulation of sand, gradually rising into a sort of isthmus
between. Many similar lakes of the same origin intersect the
valleys towards Odessa. On quitting Ajélyka, (our last post
before we gained Odessa,) we descended into a flat of consider-
able extent: it was worthy observation, from having been a still
larger branch, now dried up, of the same sea; but the road was
the worst I had seen during my whole journey.
We entered Odessa, the great mart of this northern Mediter-
ranean, at nine o'clock in the evening. From the duskiness of
the hour it was difficult to distinguish objects; however, I could
discern wide streets, spacious houses, numerous churches, ranges
of warehouses, and hundreds of draft-oxen reposing in the
squares, and open grounds not yet occupied by buildings. I
traversed the city in all directions, without finding a hotel; but
the hospitality of Mr. Yeames, our Consul-general, put an end
to my pursuit; and I learnt from him that private houses are the
only lodgings at Odessa. -
My next step was to engage a passage for Constantinople;
but on proceeding to do so, every body told me, the plague
ODESSA. - 7
was raging there with a fury not known for years, and to brave
it would be madness. Many of the Christian residents in Péra
had become its victims, and amongst them a much-lamented son
of the Austrian Internuncio. In short, the official reports were
amply sufficient to deter a more obstinate man than myself from
following his own inclination; and having as many reasons for
wishing to reach Constantinople without delay, as to reach it at
all, to put off going, till colder weather might check the disease,
would have been to waste time to no purpose; so I even took
the good counsel of Mr. Yeames, and dispatching my business
to our ambassador at the Porte, determined on entering Persia,
via Georgia.
Count de Langeron (who succeeded the Duke de Richelieu as
Governor-general of this part of the Russian empire) offered me
every facility in pursuing my journey by this route; and having
received his letters and passports, no time was lost in preparing
my departure. The Count is the same gallant officer who dis-
tinguished himself so eminently, where all were brave, in the
Russian campaign of 1812, against Buonaparte; and to have
been obliged by such a man, doubled the value of the service.
His government extends to Kherson, the Taurida, and Yek-
aterinsloff. -
Odessa is distant from St. Petersburgh about one thousand
eight hundred and thirty-three wersts; and though amongst the
latest planted, is one of the most flourishing cities of the empire.
It bids fair to realise the views of Peter the Great, in wishing
to extend the commerce of his country on the side of Asia.
Katherine the Second, treading in his steps, effectually opened
the way to riches and to power; and to the rapid civilisation of
all her subjects near the Black Sea, by her victories there, and
8 ODESSA,
the consequent peace of Kamainargi. The founding of Kher-
son, in 1780, gave birth to an extensive commerce in that quar-
ter, which gradually and substantially increased. The acquisition
of the Crimea, promised security to its success ; and the establish-
ment of the ports of Kaffa, and Kertish, confirmed it. The pro-
spect of a further stretch of commercial coast, was laid open by
the capture of the Turkish fort of Gadgibei, which Admiral
Rebus took by storm. That fort was the nucleus (if we may use
such a metaphor) of the present city of Odessa. It stood on a
high cliff, overlooking the sea, and commanding a great part of -
the coast, with a fine harbour below. From the manifest advan-
tage of this position, the victors, or rather those in authority after
its conquest, formed a plan, which they sent up to government,
setting forth the eligible situation of the recently-acquired fort-
ress, for the establishment of a new port on the Black Sea. The
project was adopted; orders issued for the foundations to be
laid; and in the year 1796 the Christian city of Odessa began to
rise, around the battered walls of the Mahometan fortress. Since
that time a gradual influx of adventurous, and industrious inha-
bitants, has brought it to the wealth and consequence it now
exhibits. Within these few years, the exportation of grain to
the Mediterranean, and other considerable markets, has produced
a degree of commercial activity in the adjoining country, scarcely
to be credited as the effect of so comparatively an infant mart.
Government being amply aware of the growing advantages of
such an emporium in that part of the world, (advantages which
none, but a person who has been on the spot, can fully appre-
hend,) hold out large offers, in the shape of personal privileges,
to certain orders of settlers; these privileges being in addition
to the liberties which Odessa, as a city, is generally to enjoy.
ODESSA. 9
In 1817 it was declared a free port. But as much money, labour,
and time are required to fulfil several important articles in His
Imperial Majesty's ukase, some years must yet elapse before the
city can reap all the advantages of its abundant situation. Mean-
while, as fortunes have been, and are made, with an astonishing
rapidity, there is no want of persons to fill the various duties
attendant on the custom-house, quarantine inspections, &c.
The salaries of these public officers are not their only emolu-
ment. I was told, the revenue received by the crown in 1803
amounted to forty-two thousand rubles, and its present produce
is upwards of one hundred and thirty thousand. Six hundred
ships have already arrived this season; and the quantity of corn
exported is calculated at eight hundred thousand chetverts: a
chetvert is about two English pecks. -
Odessa possesses an admirable quarantine establishment, with
commodious warehouses, and other conveniences indispensable
to the comfort of the merchant. The whole is surrounded with
walls and towers, and vigilantly guarded by a cordon of sentinels.
Every precaution is taken, both on board the vessels which
arrive, and with regard to the goods and persons disembarked,
to prevent the plague being communicated to the town. Yet in
spite of all this care, the dreadful malady made its appearance in
the year 1812; a year terrible and glorious to Russia: terrible,
that pestilence and war invaded her at once ; but glorious, that
in her calamity dawned restored liberty and peace to continental
Europe. - d
Several handsome churches ornament the city; but none of its
buildings equal the theatre in beauty. The edifice stands in a
fine situation, on a sort of square, overlooking the sea, and pre-
senting a portico which, at a distance, reminds the spectator of the
VOL. I. C.
10 ODESSA.
temple of Minerva, at Athens. Italian opera, and Russian co-
medy, form the dramatic amusements of the place. Thirty
thousand inhabitants, it is said, compose the present population
of Odessa. - -
Having bidden farewell to my hospitable entertainers, both
British and Russian, and being obliged, on my changed route, to
pass again through Nicolaieff, my good friend, General Kobly,
brought me on my way as far as Koblinka. His property in that
neighbourhood is of considerable extent, and greater value. The
soil produces abundance of corn, besides feeding multitudes of
sheep, bred from the original Merinos. This latter speculation
has been found highly profitable to the landholders in general,
whose pastures every where around, rivalled those of Koblinka;
some having from twenty to thirty thousand sheep in their flocks,
equal in form and wool to any of the species I ever saw in Spain.
The breed is crossed by Moldavian ewes, but the fleece does
not degenerate. — General Kobly draws a considerable revenue
also from the sale of salt, produced by the evaporation of the
waters of a small lyman, part of his property immediately bor-
dering on the Black sea. A fishery near the spot returns a pro-
portional profit in a species of herring, mackarels, turbots, soles,
and sterlits; which are salted as soon as caught, and afterwards
advantageously disposed of in the markets of Odessa.
Personal labour at Odessa and its dependencies is excessively
high. A soldier may gain three rubles per day for manual
work, a regular carpenter seven; consequently, all articles of
living are dear; and to lessen the expense of labour, every ex-
pedient is adopted, to effect its purposes by the fewest hands.
One attempt is, to divide the corn from the ear, without flail or
* threshing machine. — Several four-wheeled carts are filled with
*
THE GRASS FIRE. 11
stones, and each drawn by two horses; they are then driven in a
regular circle over the sheaves, as they lie on the ground care-
fully disposed in rows. Some of the proprietors perform a similar
operation by the trampling of horses without carts; this used to
be practised in the east, by the treading of oxen; but for clean-
liness, and ultimate profit, nothing is comparable to the regular
threshing of the British farmer. -
During my short stay at Koblinka, I witnessed (though for-
tunately for the neighbourhood it, was at a distance) a calamity
almost peculiar to the farmer of the Ukraine, and which too
often spreads a temporary desolation over vast tracts of his
country: I mean a grass fire. This terrible accident generally
happens by the carelessness of bullock-drivers, or of persons be-
longing to caravans of merchandise, who halt for the night on
the open plain; and, on departing in the morning, neglect to
extinguish their fires. Wind, or some other casualty, brings
the hot embers in contact with the high and dry grass of the
Steppe; it bursts into flame, and burns on, devouring as it goes
with a fury almost unquenchable. That which I now beheld,
arose from negligence of this kind, and soon extended itself
over a space of forty wersts; continuing its ravages for many
days, consuming all the outstanding corn, ricks, hovels, in short,
everything, in its devastating path: — the track it left was dread-
ful - -
My next sojourn, in this retrograde motion, was Nicolaieff,
where I had the pleasure of seeing Admiral Greig. On arriving
at this place from St. Petersburg, we crossed a long wooden
bridge over the river Ingul, a considerable stream which flows
past the north-west side of the town, but soon after falling into
C 2 -
12 : NICOLAIEFF.
the Boug, their united waters discharge themselves into the ly-
man of the Dnieper.
Nicolaieff, together with Cherson, (or, as it is pronounced,
Kherson,) Sebastapol, &c. &c., was founded by the celebrated
Prince Potemkin. The track of conquerors is usually traced by
towns depopulated, and once-fruitful fields made barren wastes;
but this victor left flourishing cities, where he found none; and
colonized coasts, where, before, there was hardly a fisher's hut.
This is indeed drawing the sword, to turn it into a plough-share;
and who will deny such a conqueror present admiration, and the
reverence of posterity? - -
A dock-yard has been established on the eastern shore of the
Ingul, for building ships of war. One seventy-four, and one
frigate, were on the stocks when I visited it. Indeed, an arsenal
of this kind, and to be constantly at work too, is necessary to
maintain a navy on these shores; for the Black Sea possesses a
peculiarity more hostile to its fleets, than the guns of the most
formidable enemy, - nothing more than a wormſ But the pro-
gress of that worm is as certain and as swift as the running
grains of an hour-glass. It preys on the ship's bottom, and
when once it has established itself, nothing that has yet been
discovered can stop its ravages. Even coppered vessels are ul-
timately rendered useless, when any small opening admits the
perforation of this subtle little creature.
Several disadvantages attend the situation of the dock-yard
at Nicolaieff. Amongst the most material, is the obstruction of
the river by a bar, which makes it necessary to apply the camel
to large vessels, when they are required to pass over it. A
similar inconvenience exists at St. Petersburg. It is to be la-
mented that Peter the Great did not live to complete his designs
NICOLAIEFF. 13
for Cronstadt. Those effected, its naval utilities would have
equalled its military strength ; and the expense and danger of
launching vessels from the heart of the capital, being spared,
Cronstadt might indeed have been the proudest boast of the
Russian empire.
The town of Nicolaieff is rapidly extending itself in size, and
population, under the good government of Admiral Greig; who,
besides holding the post of its governor, is commander-in-chief
of the fleet in the Black Sea. A judicious choice of men, so
widely trusted, is not less honourable to the head that selects
them, than happy for the people committed to their charge,
Nicolaieff is one proof out of many, of this considerate delegated
trust being worthily executed. But, without judgment in go-
vernment, and ability in agents, empires cannot be built up ;
and, when up, without the same system they cannot long be
maintained. -
Amongst other excellent establishments at Nicolaieff, for the
benefit of the public, and instituted by its successive governors,
the Marquis de Traversy, a few years ago, founded a museum.
On entering it, we found a good library, astronomical, and other
scientific instruments, maps, charts, a few specimens of mi-
neralogy, natural history, &c. And, considering the compa-
ratively confined means of the liberal donor, the whole wears
an appearance honourable to his science and his spirit. The
collection of antiquities possesses some interesting remains;
particularly the capitals of columns, parts of pilasters of white
marble, and mutilated altars, which had been dug out of the
ground where once stood Olvio, a city founded by the Greeks.
Olvio was situated at some distance from the north-west bank
of the Boug, near its junction with the lyman of the Dnieper.
14. NICOLAIEFF.
Mounds of earth, and uneven spots, are now the only monu-
ments of its existence; but when the ground is disturbed, other
memorials present themselves, in the shape of coins, broken.
pillars, and the like relics usually found in the grave of a great
city.
Nicolaieff boasts several fine churches, and synagogues also,
of no mean architecture. Jews are the most numerous of its
inhabitants, and their wealth bears no small proportion to their
numbers ; in short, they are the great medium of traffic. No
transaction of business, excepting those connected with offices
of government, is attempted in this part of Russia, but through
their hands. Indeed, their influence extends further along the
empire; for I am told that many of the Polish-Russian nobility
farm out their estates to these people, who load the poor pea-
santry of the soil with the hardest yoke of bondage, not allowing
them to sell any article of their industry but at a price fixed by
the Jew their master. When these wealthy Israelites enter into
agreement with the lords of the estate, a clause is generally
inserted, to oblige each peasant to take annually a certain quan-
tity of brandy from his landholder; for which insidious poison
he returns a part of the wholesome product of his own labour,
which was to have been food for himself and family. The effects
of this mismanagement, on the health, morals, and situation of
the country people, may be more easily guessed than described.
But such practices have not found patrons in the government of
the Ukraine.
The population of Nicolaieff may be about six thousand souls.
During the summer months, the admiral, its governor, inha-
bits a very pretty country residence on the banks of the Boug,
situated in a lofty grove. This last appendage, marks the parti-
NICOLAIEFF. 15
cular attraction of the spot; the country around being almost
barren of trees, and very few presenting themselves even on the
margin of the river. The palace and its grove, stand about a
couple of wersts from Nicolaieff, across a sandy plain, which
the inhabitants of the town are obliged to traverse daily for every
drop of water they consume. —All other water, rivers included, .
in the neighbourhood, excepting this one solitary fresh spring
in the governor's grounds, are so brackish as to be nearly unfit
for domestic use. The palace was built by order of Prince Po-
temkin ; and occupied by him during the long siege of Otchakoff.
The road from Nicolaieff, towards Kherson, is excellent. The
views around are all steppe; but vast tracts being sown with
grain, its flourishing growth gave an air of cheerfulness to the
poor little villages through which we passed. Were this road
even a desert, it must ever possess a peculiar interest in the eye
of an Englishman; for it holds the remains of our truly great
Howard, the friend of the captive and the miserable. -
The evening was drawing to a close when I approached the
hill, in the bosom of which the dust of my revered countryman
reposes so far from his native land. No one that has not ex-
perienced “the heart of a stranger” in a distant country, can
imagine the feelings which sadden a man while standing on such
a spot. It is well known that Howard fell a sacrifice to his
humanity; having caught a contagious fever from some wretched
prisoners at Kherson, to whose extreme need he was administer-
ing his charity and his consolations. Admiral Priestman, a
worthy Briton in the Russian service, who was his intimate
friend, attended him in his last moments, and erected over his
remains the monument, which is now a sort of shrine to all
travellers, whether from Britain or foreign countries. It is an
16 KHERSON, .
obelisk of whitish stone, sufficiently high to be conspicuous at
several miles' distance. The hill on which it stands, may be
about three wersts out of the direct road, and has a little village
and piece of water at its base. The whole is six wersts from
Kherson, and forms a picturesque as well as interesting object.
The evening having closed when I arrived at the tomb, I could not
distinguish its inscription; but the name of Howard would be
sufficient eulogy. At Kherson I learned that the present em-
peror has adopted the plans, which the great philanthropist for-
merly gave in to the then existing government, for ameliorating
the state of the prisoners. Such is the only monument he would
have desired, and it will commemorate his name for ever;
while that of the founder of the pyramids is forgotten — so much
more imperishable is the greatness of goodness, than the great-
ness of power -
Kherson is a very considerable town, on the right bank of the
Dnieper, the ancient Borysthenes. It owes its existence to
Prince Potemkin. In consequence of its defensive position, and
proximity to the mouth of the river, government has since
elevated it into a naval depot, for the fleet on this side of the
empire. Its arsenal is very complete, possessing stores of every
kind, requisite for the equipment of any necessary maritime
armament. Under such an arrangement, it seems rather out of
the way, that the admiral-commander-in-chief should have his
head-quarters at so distant a place as Nicolaieff, where the de-
mand for his vigilant eye can bear no comparison with its use at
Kherson. . .
At a few wersts from the town we crossed the Ingouletz river
on a very ill-constructed raft; and on reaching the bank an acci-
dent happened to my carriage, in getting on shore, which gave
%
KHERSON. 17
me an opportunity of seeing the kindly dispositions of the natives.
Some, who were on the raft, and totally independent of my
company, with others from the land, immediately came forward
to offer every assistance in their power; and, without reference
to reward, or even thanks, worked hard till they had extricated
my unfortunate vehicle. Indeed, it would be unjust as well as
ungrateful, not to take this occasion of bearing testimony to the
benevolence which is the characteristic of this unpretending race
of men, not only here, but throughout the whole Russian empire.
In all places, and at all times, they are ready to start forward in
aid of the distressed traveller; to assist him with their most
active service; and, so far from asking remuneration, they do
not seem even to think it due. To this amiable trait they add a
quick comprehension, and an ingenuity where expedients are
necessary, absolutely surprising in men who owe so little to
education. What the progress of civilization, and consequent
cultivation of mind, may make of so fine a soil, is a subject for
delightful speculation ; but, at present, they may be considered
a personally happy race. Without ambition, they do not repine;
their wants are few, and they possess all they want. The lord,
whose property they are, preserves them from the evils of po-
verty; and, content with the bread, however coarse, which has
neither the gall of dependence nor the canker-worm of care to
poison its wholesomeness, they take their daily food as from the
board of a father; and work cheerfully on, secure for themselves
and their little ones. These facts are no arguments for a con-
tinued state of vassalage; but they prove the goodness of Pro-
vidence, in providing man, through every stage of his mental,
and therefore civil progress, with means of happiness propor.
tioned to his existing state.
VOL. I. - D
18 STEPPE TUMULI.
On leaving the banks of the Ingouletz, our road recommenced
eastward, over the dreary Steppe, where I again observed innumer-
able tumuli; and some of a breadth and height hardly credible. ,
The different mounds in this immense region of the dead, vary
greatly in size; and, where one of unusual magnitude presents
itself, it is generally surrounded by several of smaller dimensions. .
There can be no doubt that the larger tumuli are raised over the
bodies of princes and heroes; and the minor sort, cover the
remains of the followers of their armies, or of their state. But
that so vast an expanse should be occupied by monuments of the
dead, extended regularly to the very farthest stretch of sight,
seemed almost beyond belief: — yet, there they were; and the
contemplation was as aweful, as the view was amazing.
The first idea which strikes the spectator is, that he is in
some famous field of battle, vast enough for the world to have
been lost on it; but Herodotus will not allow us to appropriate
these remote regions of sepulture to the casual circumstance of
war. He declares them regular places of interment for whole
nations; and particularly mentions, that whenever the Scythians
lost a king, or a chief, they assembled in great multitudes to
solemnise his obsequies; and, after making the tour of certain
districts of the kingdom with the corpse, they stopped in the
country of the Gerrhi, a people who lived in the most distant
parts of Scythia, and over whose lands the sepulchres were
spread. A large quadrangular excavation was then made in the
earth (in dimensions more like a hall of banquet than a grave),
and within it was placed a sort of bier bearing the body of the
deceased prince. Daggers were laid at various distances around
him, and the whole covered with pieces of wood and branches
' STEPPE TUMULI. 19
of the willow-tree. In another part of the same immense tomb,
were deposited the remains of one of the late sovereign's con-
cubines, who had been previously strangled; also his favorite
servant, his baker, cook, horsekeeper, and even the horses them-
selves; all followed him to the grave, and were laid in the same
tomb, with his most valuable property, and, above all, a sufficient
number of golden goblets. This done, the hollow was soon
filled and surmounted with earth; each person present being
ambitious to do his part in raising the pile that was to honour his
departed lord. -
About six miles from the ancient city of Sardis, near the
lake Gygaeus, is still to be seen part of the great tumulus erected
in memory of Alyattes, father of Croesus. It is described by
Herodotus as of prodigious height, having a base of stones, on
which three classes of people were employed to heap up its
enormous bulk. In the time of Strabo the remains were two
hundred feet high, and the circumference three quarters of a
mile. Several other tumuli surrounded it. This form of se-
pulture may be found all over the world; and, how lasting it is,
as a monument, may be gathered from the date of this very
mound of Alyattes. It could not have been erected much less
than two thousand four hundred years ago, Alyattes having
been contemporary with Nebuchadnezzar, the king of Babylon
who destroyed Jerusalem about six hundred years before the
birth of Christ.
Probably the smaller tumuli, commonly seen encircling a
large one, may contain the bodies of certain self-devoted
members of the deceased great man's family, who yet did not
consider themselyes high enough to share his actual grave; or,
perhaps, of his guards, who held it their duty to follow their
D 2
20 GRASS-FIRE.
master into the other world, And, as the fashion of these
human immolations would, likely, prevail through all degrees
of rank, we may easily account for the graduated sizes of other
mounds which undulate these dismal deserts, even to the very
horizon. In some parts, we find tumuli in distinct groups,
wide of each other; and in other places they appear singly
like solitary and silent watch-towers at distant stations.
Proceeding to Bereslaw, at that place we crossed the Dnieper
by a long wooden bridge which divides the governments of
Kherson and Taurida. It was not until we had passed the post
of Kowen, and reached the brow of an extensive table-land,
that any variation from the monotonous scene we had been so
long contemplating cheered our sight. There a fine vision, like
an Oasis of the desert, opened to our view. It presented a
luxuriant valley, many wersts in length, richly wooded, and
clothed with the brightest green. Through this delightful vale
flowed the waters of the Dnieper, with numerous tributary streams,
presenting landscapes as brilliant as, to us, they were evanescent.
My road lay for a considerable distance along the high ground
which commanded this fertile stretch of country; and the sight
alone was refreshing to the eyes and spirits; but, descending into
the plain, we too soon found ourselves again on the eternal and
wearisome Steppe. Here the nights began to be exceedingly
bleak; and during our travelling through one of them, near
the town of Youchokrak, we got into the midst of another of
those grass-fires I before mentioned. This spectacle was even
more awful than the one I had formerly witnessed. Then we
viewed it at a distance: here we were in its very centre. The
actual road was free from conflagration, having nothing for the
burning element to feed on ; but all around, the whole surface
MARIOPOL. 21
of the earth was covered with a moving mass of flame. The effect
produced was an apparently interminable avenue, dividing a sea
of fire. The height of the flame could not be more than two or
three feet from the ground: and on either side of our path, the
smoke was so light as to enable us to discern, this tremendous
scene stretching to an endless distance. Not a breath of wind
disturbed the atmosphere; hence it eat its devastating way over
the face of the country, with the steadiness and majesty of an
advancing ocean. During the course of my journey afterwards,
I observed many blackened tracts, from fifty to sixty wersts in
length, which had been so marked by one of these calamitous
ignitions. - -
. On my arrival at Mariopol, a town on the shores of the sea
of Azoff, I was not a little interested by the view of that fine
expanse of waters, where Peter the Great first tried his naval
experiments, and, aided by the brave Cossacks of the Don,
witnessed their success to the full promise of his expectations.
But, how changed is the scene! The seeming consequence of
Mariopol, when beheld at a distance, only shows its deserted
state more strikingly, when we really approach it. Scarce a
living creature was seen in the streets; not a vestige of existing
industry discernible ; all was motionless and silent. Two
wretched little vessels lay in the Kalmius, that river dividing
the town; and they were the only objects which gave symptoms
of retained animation. On quitting Mariopol, we crossed the
river on a raft.
During a short halt, at a village in the neighbourhood, my
attention was caught by a couple of strange-looking figures
sculptured in a sort of white hard stone. Their execution might
reach to about the same degree of proficiency in the art as that
22 Two STONE FIGUREs.
which marked the idols brought by some of our navigators from
the Sandwich isles; but the forms of these were sufficiently
intelligible to declare them man and woman. Their heads were
of an enormous size; the lower part of their persons dispro-
portionately short. The male figure wore a kind of pointed
cap ; the female one of a similar taste, with the addition of two
projections behind her ears. She had also a petticoat ; but
whether the rest of her person were vested with a close garment,
I could not make out; I only saw that her forms were pretty
decidedly delineated. The man was wholly clothed, having,
besides an undercoat similar to the woman's, the indication of
a robe hanging from his shoulders, and fastened to his breast
by two large buckles. From beneath the garments of both,
something projected more resembling stumps than feet. I at
first supposed the figures were kneeling, but, on closer examin-
ation, found that they stood erect. From the sole of their feet
to the tops of their heads, they measured about four feet and a half.
People at the post-house told me such figures are frequently
discovered in various parts of the Steppe, when turning up the
ground. The male figure had something like a book in his
hand; a very unlikely appendage to a statue of those parts, and
of its probable age.

STEPPE OF THE COSSACKS. 23
Journeying onward, still on the Steppe, I saw little, as usual,
to vary the road, though it now lay through the country of the
Cossacks. The post-houses presented only male inhabitants;
generally a father and his sons, who, being, merely on a round of
similar duty for a certain period, contentedly await, at each post,
the time of being relieved; after which they return to the bosoms
of their families, in some one of those clusters of cottages, deno-
minated Stanitzas, which are occasionally seen on the banks of
the Don, or the Axai. So much for the inhabitants of these
wastes, barren alike of human life, and the vegetable kingdom;
for, travelling werst after werst, we hardly met a living creature;
and the only objects which, now and then, broke the tedious level
of the plain, were groups of thistles, which may with truth be
called the trees of the Steppe, most of them being from six to
seven feet high.
On reaching the country of the Don, the Tanais of the
ancients, a very different scene presented itself. The rich pen-
insula, on which stands the flourishing town of Taganrock, was
before me; also the vast fertile plain through which the Don
flows, and by its enormous mouths discharges itself into the sea
of Azoff, at its eastern extremity. This magnificent river winds
through the country for more than a thousand wersts, carrying
with its stream the means and the rewards of industry. In many
places, however, it has become so shallow, as to be scarcely
navigable, particularly where it approaches the sea of Azoff, for
there the sand thrown up in its bed forms daily accumulating
obstacles. In the spring, when the snow thaws on the hills, the
stream deepens and widens, and floods the country to, a consi-
derable extent; then the old city of Tcherkask becomes a second
Venice, the inhabitants having no other way of going from house
24 * FAIR OF ST. DEMETRY.
to house but in boats. The banks of the Don abound in fine
timber, which is daily felled, and being thrown into the river, the
stream carries it safely down to St. Demetry, where part is appro-
priated to naval uses, and great quantities exported to Odessa,
and other ports on the Black Sea. -
The road was a descent towards St. Demetry and Rostow.
Part of it passed over a sandy tract; but all there was life.
Droves of horned cattle, horses, hundreds of waggons, multitudes
of people on foot, and on horseback, swarmed in every direction.
It was the celebration of the annual fair, held under the walls of
St. Demetry; and the whole adjoining country was filled with
the attending throng. The tents, the moving groups, the various
sounds, were full of gaiety and business. So animated a scene
could not fail to impart some of its tone to a traveller who had
been so long in lonesome desarts; and, with no little exhilaration
at the contemplation of so much enjoyment, I drove along,
amongst Cossacks, Kalmuks, Turks, Tartars, Russians, &c. all in
their genuine costumes, bargaining over every variety of portable
merchandize, spread out upon the ground. Oxen, horses, and
cart-wheels, seemed the great objects of sale. Wood also
appeared in such estimation that, besides enormous piles which
in places blocked up the road, the smallest twigs were laid ready
in bundles for the purchaser. The cart-wheels were of every
sort and size, and, elevated into pyramids, produced a novel and
not inelegant effect. In short, it was one of the most bustling
and amusing scenes I ever witnessed; and the clouds of dust,
raised by new comers, or the wind, by occasionally obscuring
parts of the spectacle, made amends for its suffocating influence,
by often increasing the picturesqueness of the landscape and
its groups. - - - -
ROSTOw. 25
Rostow, the name of the city to which this fair is attached, is
a place of considerable importance; not only from its mercantile
facilities on the shores of the Don, but in consequence of its
lying on the road from Moscow and the other great towns of the
empire, towards the coasts of Azoff and the Black Sea. . The
fort of St. Demetry, which gives its title to the fair, stands on a
rising ground near the field of traffic, and commands the road
leading to New Tcherkask. From Rostow I had not quite a
day's journey to reach the latter city; and being impatient to
shake hands, in his own land, with its illustrious Attaman, the
ever-memorable Count Platoff, I rose very early in the morning
to prepare for my departure. . -
By these matin hours of exertion, while most of the busy throng
were still sleeping, I got rid of various impediments, which the
experienced frequenters of the fair had cast in the way of a mere
traveller; and, setting forth long before noon, about twelve the
same night made my glad entry into New Tcherkask, the new
capital of the Donskoy country. - - -
The master of the inn where I had put up, told me the Atta-
man was at his summer residence, about two miles from the
city, on the banks of the Axai. My wish was no sooner ex-
pressed, to join him there, than the worthy Cossack supplied me
with a guide and a horse; and taking our course by a pleasant
road, I soon reached the palace of my friend. It is a fine build-
ing, perfectly suitable in style and appendages to the high
station of its brave inhabitant. A guard of Cossacks kept the
* gate; others with naked swords stood at the great door of
entrance; while officers in waiting, orderlies, and every other
degree of princely and military state, occupied the passages and
anti-rooms. On being ushered, as a stranger, into an apartment
VOL. I. E
26 COUNT PLATOFF.
where I was met by the Attaman's secretary (the only person in
his establishment who could speak French) I mentioned my
name to him, and the good gentleman's joyous surprise was no
unpleasant token of his chief's welcome. He told me His Ex-
cellency had, only the day before, received intimation from St.
Petersburg, that I was proceeding to Persia by a route so distant
from Tcherkask that he must abandon all hope of seeing me.
I did not delay being conducted to the Attaman's presence; and
words cannot express the hospitable greeting of the kind old
man. He embraced me, and repeatedly congratulated himself
on the events, whatever they might have been, which had
induced me to change my route to that of his territory. When
he could spare me to proceed, he said, he would pledge himself
that I should have every facility in his power to bring me to
Tiflis in safety. The police-officer of Tcherkask being in the
room, was ordered to provide me suitable quarters in the town;
but the Attaman's table was to be mine, and he commanded an
equipage to be placed entirely at my disposal. I urged that my
stay must be short; but he would not hear of my leaving him
till I had shared with him the honour of a visit he was then
expecting from his Imperial Highness the Grand Duke Michael.
Anxious as I was to lose no time in crossing the Caucasus, I
could not withstand persuasions flowing from a heart so kindly
to myself, and grateful to my country. He expressed, in the
most enthusiastic language, his sense of the attentions bestowed
on him by all ranks of persons during his stay in England in the
year 1814; he said, that, independent of private respect for indi-
viduals, he must always consider himself fortunate when cir-
cumstances brought any Englishman into the Donskoy country,
to whom he might evince his gratitude. “But, with regard to
COUNT PLATOFF. 27
you,” he said, “ the brother-in-law of Prince Alexander Scher-
batoff, he, whose brave career I have so often witnessed, and
now, with his country, must ever lament its early termination :
For his sake, did I not esteem you for yourself, you should
claim my amplest services.”
The venerable Attaman expatiated on a subject so dear to his
heart, and to mine; but what I have quoted is sufficient to stamp
its character; and, surely, an honest pride in the virtues of a
relative now no more, may obtain pardon for thus recording
their testimony from such a man as Count Platoff.
No monument is so precious, as that which lives in the memory
of the brave and good. And never did man more richly deserve
that shrine than the gallant and amiable soldier whose early fate
now called tears into the eyes of the veteran. His compatriots,
indeed, must fall into the tomb; but while history remembers
the glories of the campaigns of 1812, 1813, and 1814, the
name of Scherbatoff can never be forgotten. -
I passed the remainder of the day with my venerable host;
and on my return to the city found most comfortable quarters;
to which, in my absence, my carriage, servants, &c., had been
carefully transferred. All were placed under a guard of honour,
which was to hold attendance there during my stay at Tcherkask.
Next morning Count Platoff called upon me to see how his
hospitable orders had been fulfilled. The hurry of spirits which
followed the meeting of the day before, having now subsided
with us both, I observed him more calmly; and, while in dis-
course, I could not but remark to myself, with foreboding regret,
the difference between his present appearance, and the vigour
of his frame, even so late as the year 1816, when he was my
guest at St. Petersburg. The destroying effects of the campaign
E 2 *
28 - COUNT PLATOFF.
of 1812, were now too apparent in his countenance and figure;
but his mind continued unimpaired, and each succeeding hour I
passed in his society increased my veneration for its powers.
He took me to dine with him at his house in Tcherkask, whither
he was going to inspect the preparations he had ordered for
welcoming his Imperial Highness.
The hour of dinner, in this country, is generally two o'clock;
but Count Platoff always dined at five, or sometimes a little later.
The manner of serving the repast, differs in nothing from the
style at Moscow, excepting that more wine is drank. The wines
most in use, came from the Greek islands; yet his excellency
boasts his own red and white champaigne of the Don, which,
when old, are hardly inferior to the wines of that name in France.
I drank at the Attaman's table another sort of red wine as ex-
cellent as any from Bourdeaux. It is made by a family of Ger-
mans, whom his excellency brought from the Rhine. And, from
these specimens, I have little doubt that were the like culture of
the grape, and similar treatment of the juice when pressed from
the fruit, pursued throughout the country, the Donskoy vine-
yards would produce wines, that might rival, not only those of
Greece, but of France and Germany. -
Game is abundant here, and of the most delicious sort; par-
ticularly bustards, pheasants, partridges, &c., &c. Fish too, is in
equal plenty; and, as a luxury, sturgeon holds an eminent place.
Indeed good cheer of all kinds is procured at a very moderate
expense; and, if I may be allowed to judge, by the liberal ex-
amples I saw, the bounties of Nature are neither neglected, nor
churlishly appropriated, by the natives of the Don.
The windows of the house in which I lodged, overlook an
extensive and beautiful plain, through which flow the waters of
NEW TCHERKASK. 29
the Don and the Axai, and a variety of minor streams. From
hence, I could just distinguish the lofty spires of Old Tcherkask,
and a black line of forest, stretching along the horizon.
The new city owes its existence to Count Platoff, the present
truly glorious Attaman, who laid its foundation-stone about ten
years ago. All Europe has heard of him as a hero; but we must
visit his country to know him as he is, – the father of his people,
as well as their general. He fixed the site of his new city on
high ground, that it might escape the immediate inconvenience
of the old inundations during the spring. The progress in build-
ing has been so great, that even in the city's present infant state,
it covers nearly four miles of ground. A natural ravine runs
almost completely round it, beginning and terminating to the
south-east; which side of the town rests on the acclivity of a
hill, abruptly sloping to the great plain. Many of the rich, and
military in high rank, have already built themselves splendid
houses; and this passion for architectural magnificence is daily
emulated by other persons of the same stations in society. Two
lofty gates, in the style of triumphal arches, (though not quite
in the old Roman taste,) mark the entrances of the city from the
Moscow and Rostow roads. An Italian artist was the architect
of these structures. He is at present employed on more im-
portant works; the grand cathedral, and a palace for the Atta-
man. The former is to be of hewn stone, and has already risen
considerably above the foundations. On walking through the
town, and calculating the magnitude and number of buildings,
astonishment equals admiration, when we recollect that for more
than four years out of ten employed in their erection, three
parts of the population were absent from the country, defending
the empire. The streets are wide and long. In the centre of
30 sº NEW TCHERKASK.
the town a superb structure of stone, like the Gastonadvor (or
place of shops) in St. Petersburg, is to be raised. In the mean-
while, a temporary building of wood supplies its place. The
houses of tradesmen and humbler order of Cossacks are all con-
structed of timber, on stone foundations from three to four feet
high. They are clean, to nicety, both within and without,
equalling the Hollander's habitation in every species of domestic
order. Such exactness is the more striking to a traveller coming
from Russia, where punctilios of that sort are little thought of in
the smaller towns and villages.
Amongst other judicious measures, Count Platoff has instituted
a school for the education of the youth of Tcherkask, in which
every branch of useful knowledge is taught by well-qualified and
well-salaried masters. The establishment has not yet increased
its inmates, equal to the population of the city; thirty-six boys
being all the present number of its students. But this warlike
people, surrounded by hostile tribes, may be excused for not yet
fully appreciating the advantages of a system wholly directed to
the mind, and must therefore appear connected with objects of
peace alone. Simple in their wants, and simple in their views, to
preserve themselves in possession of their little circle of family
comfort, they think not of the embellishments of life, nor of the
refinements of learning; but turn the whole force of their talents
to the formation and the good management of arms. The pike,
the weapon of his ancestors and himself, like the eagle of the
ancient Roman, is regarded by the brave Cossack as a sort of
tutelary deity; having the power to preserve, or to gain and to
maintain the land he inhabits. But as European civilisation
spreads around him, emulation for literature and the arts, will
awaken with their evident use; and the ardent and active nature
THE COSSACKS. 31
of the native of the Don, will be found not to fall behind any
other people in clear perception, and well exercised talents.
The name Cossack, or Kassack, has been variously derived.
Some deduce it from a similar word in the Tartar language,
meaning an armed man. Others go farther eastward for a root,
and make it a robber. But both senses will suit the Cossack;
the original mode of warfare with these armed men being that
of robbery, or plundering their enemies. Indeed, such predatory
ways and means seem common with all half-civilised nations who
border on each other; and even our own country showed similar
habits not many generations back, as the old ballad of Chevy
Chace bears ample testimony. -
The real term of military service, with these hereditary
warriors of the Don, ceases only with their lives or their capa-
bility, that is, in actual war; but, in times of peace, four years
is the regular period of duty with a regiment. These men are
then relieved by others, who serve, and are relieved in their
turn. From the military establishment being on so enlarged a
scale, this rotation comes much sooner round than it did for-
merly ; and this still throws to a further distance, the formation
of those dispositions which incline a man to cultivate the quiet
arts. Twenty-five years is the nominal extent of a Cossack's
military service; but the martial spirit, and custom, make every
man a soldier, when war either approaches his country, or
requires his arm to keep it at a distance. A Cossack finds his
own arms, clothing, and horse. When on service, the Emperor
allows each man one cavalry ration, and double for his horse.
Should the animal be killed in the field, money is given to
purchase another. When at home, this man either carries on
some business, in one or other of the two cities of Tcherkask,
32 THE COSSACKS.
or he possesses a cottage and spot of ground in the country,
well stocked ; on the produce of which he supports his family,
cultivating the soil during the summer months, and returning
into the village, or stanitza, for the winter season. The lower
classes, who inhabit the New and Old Tcherkask, are mostly
shopkeepers, traders, and fishermen. However, neither these
useful occupations, nor their wealth, (did they wish to use it
for purchasing themselves off) could exempt them from per-
forming any part of their regular return of military duty.
During the campaign of 1812, and for nearly four years after-
wards, almost all the population capable of bearing arms, were
called forth; and I am credibly informed, about fifty thousand
may be computed to have fallen in that space of time. The
quota of force which this branch of the Cossack nation furnishes
to Russia, for European and Asiatic service, amounts to eighty
regiments, each regiment numbering from five to six hundred
men. That of the Attaman, which is the elite of the country,
is calculated at twelve hundred men. They have also an
excellent corps of horse-artillery; the uniform of this corps is
green ; and they have been added to the nation within these ten
years. The Cossack uniform, in general, is too well known to
make a description needful here. Blue is the national colour;
and, wherever variety in the regimentals has been sought, red
seems the change usually adopted. The regiment, or guard,
formed by Count Platoff wore some peculiarities; namely, a
light blue stripe down their trowsers, with the bag of their cap,
their sash, sleeves, cape, and epaulets, of the same colour.
A regiment, called the Cossacks of the Guard, are always sta-
tioned in St. Petersburg. They consist of the tallest and best
THE COSSACKS. 33
made young men in the country; and certainly, with Platoff's
own corps included, may be styled the chosen of the nation.
The men of the Don are, mostly well-favoured; being robust,
fair, and handsome. This happy exterior is a type of their hearts;
hospitable, brave, honourable, and scrupulously religious. Seve-
ral of the higher ranks have sent their sons to Moscow, or St.
Petersburgh for education; but it is to be hoped, the public
school, established by the brave and pious father of the city,
not merely for high or low, but for all ranks, will in the course
of time give every advantage at home, to so much excellent
natural material. - - -
The Cossack women seem far inferior to the men in mental
ability; and the comparison, in personal endowments, fails with
the ladies also. Meet them in numbers, and the aggregate is
certainly plain ; though it must be admitted, there are some very
lovely exceptions. The usual female appearance is short stature,
faces of strong Tartar feature, with eyes, however, almost inva-
riably large and dark. The style of dress is decidedly fashioned
from the east. A sort of chemisette (or small shift) of coloured
linen, buttoned round the neck, and with sleeves to the wrist.
A pair of trowsers, of a similar stuff, are covered by a silk caf-
tan, reaching as low as the ancles. This upper garment is fast-
ened, from the neck to the bottom of the waist, with buttons of
small pearls, in form and workmanship like those in gold or
silver from the Brazils. The waist is bound with a girdle, also
ornamented with pearls, and frequently clasped by a diamond
buckle. The heads of married ladies are adorned with, literally,
a silken night-cap, which is wrapped about with a gaily coloured
handkerchief, in the form, of a fillet. The unmarried (like the
damsels in Russia of the lower class) wear the hair in a long
VOL. I. F
34 THE COSSACKS.
plait down their backs; but with this difference from the Russian
girl, -instead of a bunch of ribbons at the termination of the
plait, the handkerchief, with which the head is bound, twists round
the braid nearly to its end, something in the manner of the Cor-
sican caps. .
Count Platoff, in his wish to bring the manners of Western
Europe with its arts and sciences to the banks of the almost
Asiatic Don, is even desirous that the ladies of the Cossack
noblesse (if I may use that term) should adopt the thorough
European dress. So far he has gained his point, that numbers
of their children wear it; and on high festival days, the silken
night-cap and fillet-kerchief of the maturer personages, receives,
what they think, the British decoration of an artificial flower;
or, perhaps, takes the bolder turn of a Parisian turban. As the
innovation has begun, it may be regretted it did not commence
at a different part of the figure, the bosom and waist; and had it
stopped there, the change would have been sufficient. The
adoption of the French corset, by preserving the shape in its due
proportions, would have effected every thing, (if elegance and
simplicity be the object of fashion,) to show a fine form to the
best advantage, in its truly becoming national costume.
During my stay in this country I visited General Leveshky at his
seat, as we would call it in England; and the reputation of its pic-
turesque beauties fell far short of the reality. It is situated about
five miles on the road towards Old Tcherkask, on a slope of the
long line of high ground which borders the north-western ex-
tremity of the great plain, and thence runs forward towards St.
Demetry, and the shore of the Azoff Sea. The view from the
house is as noble as it is extensive. On the left, New Tcherkask
presents itself on an elevated site, overlooking the whole country.
THE AXAI. 35
... The eye then sweeps along the horizon without interruption
till it meets the minarets of the old city, and the glittering mean-
ders of the Don, the Axai, and another smaller river, called the
Koraitch, which intersect the green and luxuriant plain in a
thousand different directions. Thickets of wood at various dis-
tances, surrounding single spires, mark the stanitzas or humbler
towns of the Cossacks. The main road from New Tcherkask to
the ancient city, lies along the foot of the height, on the brow of
which stands the residence of General Leveshky. The path is
rendered delightful by groups of trees, giving refreshment as well
as shade, most of them bearing excellent fruit. In this part of
the plain, the wealthy of the new city generally erect their villas.
The Axai flows close to the road; a beautiful companion; but it
has not the advantage of being navigable. A plan is in consult-
ation to increase its waters, by means of canals. Indeed it was
once projected to unite the Don with this river; but, on examin-
ation, the level of the Axai was found too high for the intended
junction. Count Platoff, and those in authority with him, are
particularly anxious to accomplish some mode of rendering the
latter river capable of transporting merchandize; its present
comparatively useless state being the chief reason why so many
opulent and industrious families still remain amongst the un-
wholesome damps of the old capital. The Axai once navigable,
New Tcherkask, flourishing and salubrious, must soon leave its
ancient name-sake without inhabitant. -
In the morning of September the fifteenth (O.S.), an avant
courier announced the approach of His Imperial Highness the
Grand Duke Michael. He was to arrive the next day. The
whole town was instantly in motion. Nothing was to be seen at
dawn but men and horses running to and fro, squadrons of artil-
F 2
36 * VISIT OF THE GRAND DUKE MICHAEL.
lery moving out in every direction; the whole having more the
air of a place preparing to repulse an enemy, than a city opening
its gates to receive a highly honoured prince. But thus one
dominant colour casts its own hue over all others: the people
of the Don are a nation of warriors; and every man was under
arms. The Attaman's regiment, the elite of the country, was
posted about three miles on the Moscow road. Parties of dis-
mounted Cossacks lined this road on each side, closing upon the
gate of the city, where a splendid tent was pitched. It contained
Count Platoff, and all the general officers in attendance, ready to
greet the illustrious visitor. Twelve pieces of cannon were
planted on a height directly over the ground, which commanded
a view to the very horizon. The whole face of the hill, down to
the tent or pavilion, presented various groups, consisting of
natives, Tartars, Kalmucks, and Russians; while the plain itself
was covered with a vast concourse of people of all ages, sexes,
conditions, and nations, on foot, in carriages, in waggons, on
horseback, &c. Every countenance beamed with animation 3.
and there only wanted the appearance of the expected guest
to give voice to their impatient enthusiasm. The suspense of
the anxious multitude continued from hour to hour. The even-
ing began to close in ; the sun gradually dropt behind the
horizon, and it became nearly dusk. Disappointment was draw-
ing its shades also over every face, when at last, by a distant and
scarcely perceptible cloud of dust, the approach of their prince
was descried. It was instantly announced by a discharge of
cannon. A universal shout echoed the welcome news; and, in
the midst of the eager throng, pressing towards the immediate
point of sight, His Imperial Highness reached the gate. The
Attaman was ready, with his officers, to hail the brother of their
VISIT OF THE GRAND DUKE MICHAEL. 37
sovereign; and this was done with the customary testimonies
of loyalty and welcome, bread and salt; which they presented
to him on a magnificent salver of gold.
This ancient form was accompanied with a speech by Platoff,
brief, but worthy himself and the prince to whom he addressed
it. The Grand Duke's reply was in the same noble spirit; and
then, mounting his horse, surrounded by the Count and his
suite, and followed by the acclamations of the people, his Im-
perial Highness proceeded to the great church of the city. Du-
ring divine service the whole town was illuminated; and nearly
ten thousand earthen lamps, blazing with lights, tracked the way
that was to lead the illustrious guest to the residence prepared for
him. Ranks of Cossacks lined the streets; and, nearer the gate
of the imperial lodging, officers and under-officers were stationed,
bearing the different standards which the sovereigns of the em-
pire had, on various occasions, presented to the Donskoy nation.
Amongst other objects which were more than pageantry, the
silver mace of office attached to the authority of Attaman, was
carried in the procession ; also a massive silver chest, containing
the archives, supported by four men. But it might be tedious
to describe every particular to which the occasion gave peculiar
interest. About eight o'clock in the evening, the ceremony ter-
minated. .
Next day, at an early hour, Count Platoff sent an aide-de-
camp, to request I would join him in paying his morning duty
to the Grand Duke. About nine o'clock, I accompanied him
to the residence, and found a numerous assemblage, field-officers
and other persons, waiting in the saloon, to be introduced by
their Attaman. The whole party were soon in the presence of
his Imperial Highness. More heart than form prevailed in the
38 THE GRAND DUKE MICHAEL.
ceremony; being performed on one side, by a veteran hero un-
used to court etiquette, presenting a people simple as brave;
and accepted on the other, by a prince whose well-known family
characteristic is urbanity of manners, grounded on graciousness of
principle. To speak thus of royal personages, is generally, and,
I must say, often unfairly imputed to flattery. But if a man be
unsuspected while speaking disparagingly of the great, why is
he to be doubted when he brings forward a different testimony P
— A whole people are allowed to thank Heaven for a good king;
but if an individual raise his voice with the same sentiment,
perhaps just before or after the general clamour, he is treated with
derision as a slave and sycophant. It is strange that these per-
sons do not find out that a party, a populace, may be flattered
as well as a prince; and that he alone is base who fears to utter
the truth, whether it be good or bad, of high or low. The great-
est power does not always dwell with the greatest rank.
His Imperial Highness spoke of his intended tour the ensuing
summer, through Germany, Italy, France, and England; and
in terms so gratifying to an Englishman, that I could not but
join in the wish with which he honoured me ; that I could
be in England at that time, to enjoy the impression of its insti-
tutions &c., on a mind so capable of appreciating their value.
After attending divine service in the great church, and visiting
the different establishments of the city, all which he contem-
plated with declared approbation of their utility and progress; the
prince proceeded to a part of the plain about two miles distant
from the town, and followed by a numerous cavalcade, reviewed
the troops. The field consisted of the artillery, the regiment of
Platoff, and another fine body of Cossacks, which manoeuvred
in their desultory, but very effective mode of warfare. A
DEPARTURE OF THE GRAND DUKE. 39
Kalmouk band, chiefly composed of variously discordant trum-
pets, kettle-drums, and a huge tambourin, played all the while
such inharmonious music, and with so tremendous a noise, that
I can only compare it to the roaring of elephants under the goad
of merciless keepers. Savage sounds are certainly more in cha-
racter with the clash of arms, than more civilised strains;
and here the effect was manifest. The spirit and dexterity of
the troops showed again, in shadow, what they had so sub-
stantially proved during the campaign of 1812, — their military
powers and energy. - - -
After the review, (about three o'clock,) a magnificent dinner,
consisting of every delicacy in food and wines, was served at the
Attaman's residence in the city, for the refreshment of his Impe-
rial Highness. In the evening the latter returned to it at an early
hour, to be present at a ball and supper, where all the rank and .
beauty of the country were assembled. The ladies had taken no
small pains to array themselves for so extraordinary an occasion;
and both the national and the European modes of dress were dis-
played to every possible advantage. The Grand Duke paid his
usual polite attentions to the fair group, polonaised with several;
and at eleven o'clock retired; leaving the party at a Sumptuous
supper. - -
Early in the morning of - September the 18th, his Imperial
Highness bade adieu to the hospitalities of New Tcherkask, and,
mounting his horse, proceeded to the old city. Count Platoff,
with his suite, attended him. From the old capital he was to
go by Water to Rostow ; thence, via the Crimea, to Odessa; and
so on, to Moscow, where the Imperial family were to pass the
winter. l
The scene of bustle being over, on the Attaman's return I
40 PARTING WITH COUNT PLATOFF.
made preparations for my own departure, requesting him to
allow his secretary to get ready immediately the letters, papers,
passports, &c., which he was so kind as to promise me, for my
future progress. His Excellency would have detained me longer;
and could I have staid, I should have been glad to comply: but
I urged the advance of the season, and consequent probability
should I delay, of being closed up in the Caucasus. He was too
well aware of the truth of these arguments, when once he saw I
must proceed, to do otherwise than speed the parting guest; and
every facility was then given to my movements. I had promised Q
General Leveshky to dine with him the day of my passing
through his domains, (which were twelve wersts onward in my
way;) and accordingly I dispatched my servants and carriage to
the general's, to halt there till my arrival. I meant to follow on
horseback; wishing to give as much time as I could to my last
day’s enjoyment of the venerable friend I dared hardly hope to
See again. We passed several hours together. The terms are
dear to memory in which he bade me farewell; and, attending
me to the door of his palace, he once more embraced me. I
shall never forget the veteran dignity of his figure at that mo-
ment; his grey hairs and furrowed cheek, and the benign smile,
which at all times brightened the soldier-like simplicity of his
aspect. I left him on the 23d of September (O.S.), and we
were, indeed, never to meet again. He died before I had half
performed my Persian tour. w
On arriving at the house of the general, where I was to dine,
I found that the kindness of Count Platoff had preceded me
even there. He had added to my suite a subaltern officer of
Cossacks, and a store of every sort of provision I could require
on the road. The officer was to travel with me; to see horses,
OLD TO HERKASK. 41
quarters, escorts, in short every thing provided, that could
administer to my safety and comfort, till I should reach Tiflis,
the termination of the Russian jurisdiction, and of the Donskoy
influence. The most dangerous part of my journey between
Tcherkask and the Persian capital, probably was that which I
was then commencing, so many marauding tribes still con-
tinuing unsubdued, near the mountain passes. We set forth
soon after dinner, and crossed the Axai over a small wooden
bridge. The road then lay through the plain, bringing me to
the ancient capital, Old Tcherkask, just as the evening closed.
So far from its having the Asiatic appearance some travellers
represent, the houses are not even flat-roofed; and, besides the
cathedral, which is a noble structure, there seemed little else
in the town to give it an air even of departed grandeur. About
three wersts from thence, we crossed the Don on a wretched
bridge of loose beams. It was nearly a werst in length, crazy
and old, and so dangerous at both ends, from neglect, we
could not advance a step without peril of our lives. The
darkness of the hour when we arrived rendered the passage more
hazardous ; and, before we got quite over, I was obliged to call
in the assistance of a couple of sturdy oxen, to drag the carriage
up the ascent, of rotten and ill-constructed planks which united
the bridge to the bank we were approaching. Two of my horses
had fallen in the attempt, and one narrowly escaped drowning.
On gaining the shore, through the gloom of the night I dis-
covered that we were again on an extensive steppe, and sur-
rounded with innumerable tumuli. -
At five o'clock the following morning we reached the village
of Kagulnitsky; and in the afternoon of the same day arrived
at Nishnoy Egorlisky. At this last place we enter the govern-
VOL. I. G
42 STAVRAPOL.
ment and line of the Caucasus, though the mountains themselves
were still out of sight. A quarantine is established here for
travellers coming from Georgia, or any of the countries near the
Terek and Kuban rivers. Arriving under suspicion only, they
are too likely to go out accompanied by some real evil, for a
more pestilential looking spot I never beheld. An earthen
embankment hems in the miserable wooden habitations destined
for the suspected of the plague, and a noisome and unhealthy
stream called the Egorlick (which name literally means stinking),
runs close to the bank. A post, and guard of Cossacks, enforce
the quarantine regulations, and see that nothing passes these
frontiers without purification. The country from hence is of
the same flat, shrubless, uninteresting character, till we reach
the village of Donskoy. There it becomes varied by some high
ground, on which is scattered a few trees; and this undulating
line continued on our left, to the distance of fifteen wersts, till
we reached a valley, at whose extremity were situated the fort
and village of Moscofskoy. This little strong-hold commands, to
the right and to the left, two other valleys which run far into
the country, and it is the last post before we arrive at the city
of Stavrapol. On entering the town, we found it finely situated
on the side of a hill overlooking the extensive plain between
it and Moscofskoy, which we had just traversed. Its houses,
being appendaged with gardens, have an air of external conse-
quence and convenience which I fear few within would verify:
at least, if I may judge by my own experience. I was quartered
in one of the most imposing looking habitations in the place,
and yet found it impossible to get the common comfort of
hot water, or to rest at night for the vermin, &c. that infested
every corner. Indeed, while on these tracts, for the above
ZERGIFSKOY. 43
reasons, I generally retired for the night to my carriage, pre-
ferring the endurance of a little extraordinary cold, rather than
expose myself to all the filth of one of these abominable abodes
of uncleanness. Stavropol is about three hundred and thirty
wersts from New Tcherkask ; and here the great road comes in
from the western line of the Caucasus, as well as from the Crimea,
and the Turkish possessions on the eastern coast of the Black
Sea.
Early in the morning we descended the northern side of the
town into a plain, keeping, for a considerable way, along the
foot of some high, well-wooded ground; after which we
ascended again over a succession of lands, until we reached the
village and post of Zergiſskoy, a place situated on the slope of
a considerable hill, conspicuous even as far as Stavrapol, from its
being composed of whitish sand, which, from that distance, has
the appearance of snow. Here two Cossacks were given me
for an escort ; but how different were they, both in person
and costume, from my friends of the Don Their stature was
low, their visages rugged, and their garb of the wildest and
most savage fashion. These people belong to the foot of the
Caucasus; and, as I proceeded further, I found most of the
inhabitants habited in a similar manner. A small cloth cap,
bound with sheepskin or fur, fits almost close to their head; while
a short vest covers their body, and, falling as far as the knee,
meets a pair of loose trowsers, which, stuffed into boots, com-
pletes the uncouth but picturesque habiliment. Their arms are,
a musket slung across the shoulder, protected from the damp by
a hairy case; a straight sword fastened to the left side by the
belt round their waist; a dagger of great breadth, and also a
large knife, pendant from the same. On the right and left of
- G 2
44 - VIEW OF CAUCASUS.
their breast is sewn a range of narrow pockets, each large enough
to hold a wooden case containing a charge of powder; the range
usually counts six or eight of these charges. Independent of this
magazine, few go without a light cartouch-box attached to another
belt which crosses the right shoulder. Their saddle, and the rest
of their horse accoutrements, differ little from the fashion of most
other Cossacks. But both man and horse are, in some measure,
protected by their bourka, a sort of cloak made of the hair of
the mountain-goat, and only manufactured by the mountaineers.
This forms an excellent defence against rain or wind, when
brought round the body; but in mild weather it is merely tied
on behind. In addition to the cloak they wear a hood for the
protection of the face and ears, called a bashlick. No fixed
colour marks the uniform of this military branch of imperial
Cossacks; but brown, grey, and white seem the favourite hues.
On quitting Zergifskoy, we mounted the height, and continued
travelling over a country similar to that we had passed the pre-
ceding day. We hoped to gain the town of Alexandroff before
night, but were disappointed, and obliged to halt at the village
of Severnaia, finding it impossible to proceed on so dangerous
a road after dusk. We set off, however, by times in the morning;
and, after traversing a rather uneven country, at the distance
of eight or ten wersts from our last lodgings reached the
brow of a very steep hill; from whence, for the first time, I be-
held the stupendous mountains of Caucasus. No pen can express
the emotion which the sudden burst of this sublime range
excited in my mind. I had seen almost all the wildest and
most gigantic chains in Portugal and Spain, but none gave me
an idea of the vastness and grandeur of that I now contemplated.
This seemed nature's bulwark between the nations of Europe
ALEXANDROFF. 45
and of Asia. Elborus, amongst whose rocks tradition reports
Prometheus to have been chained, stood, clad in primeval snows,
a world of mountains in itself, towering above all, its white
and radiant summits mingling with the heavens; while the pale
and countless heads of the subordinate range, high in themselves,
but far beneath its altitude, stretched along the horizon, till lost
to sight in the soft fleeces of the clouds. Several rough
and huge masses of black rock rose from the intermediate
plain, their size was mountainous; but being viewed near the
mighty Caucasus, and compared with them, they appeared little
more than hills; yet the contrast was fine, their dark brows
giving greater effect to the dazzling summits which towered
above them. Poets hardly feign, when they talk of the genius
of a place. I know not who could behold Caucasus, and not
feel the spirit of its sublime solitudes awing his soul.
We travelled onward, and a very short time brought us to the
town of Alexandroff. It stands at the foot of a high precipitous
hill, embosomed in trees and gardens, and watered by the river
Kouma, which flows near it. The country from hence to
Georgewesk is all steppe, bounded by the distant Caucasus,
which were occasionally shut from our view by the thickening
vapours of the atmosphere, and the weather, which had been
gradually darkening, at last turned to a long and drenching rain;
under which we entered the town. ^.
Having a letter for the commandant, General del Pozzo, I drove
to his house, but did not alight. He was absent in the moun-
tains, superintending the erection of a new fort. This inform-
ation conveyed no small degree of disappointment to me, as
from him I was to have received every means to facilitate my
journey; proper introductions to the officers commanding at
46 GEORGEWESK.
Mozdock (the gate of my entrance into Asia), to those at Wlady-
Caucasus, the key of the mountains, and, above all, an order
for the indispensable escort. Not anticipating his absence, I
had no credentials to deliver to the civil governor, whose good
offices might in this dilemma have supplied to me the place of
the commandant. However I determined, as soon as I had
taken possession of the quarters my Cossack officer had provided
me, to be my own passport, and pay my personal respects to the
governor. My quarters were in the house of a person who had
attended General Yarmolloff in his last route across the Cau-
casus; and from him I learnt, that the present time of the year
was the best for undertaking that perilous journey, provided the
season were not rainy in the low country; for, in that sort of
weather, snow always fell in the mountains, and the dangers of
travelling were consequently augmented. From the lateness of
the hour I could not with propriety call that evening on the
governor; but early in the following morning I paid my visit,
and stated my embarrassment. He expressed ready zeal to sup-
ply all that I might have expected from the commandant; and
while his secretary was preparing the requisite papers to be my
convoy, he detained me to dinner, (which was at one o'clock;)
and still more seasoned his prompt hospitality, by expressing his
pleasure at the opportunity I had given him of serving a stranger
and an Englishman. I must here observe, that alacrity to oblige
foreigners, while travelling in the Russian empire, is universal
in the heads of cities; and when that foreigner comes from
Great Britain, it is not merely politeness, but friendship that.
receives him. Mr. Malitzky fills the station of civil governor at
Georgewesk; and having passed many years of his life in
Georgia and the neighbourhood of the Caucasus, during the few
THE BATHS OF KONSTANTINOGORSK. 47
hours I was under his roof, he entertained me with several inter-
esting particulars relative to the wild inhabitants of those
elevated regions. His history of their predatory descents, in
small bodies or large, on any luckless or rash traveller who
attempts the mountain passes by night, was picturesque, but it
was terrible; and I had no inclination, by setting out that even-
ing, to incur similar increase of dangers. In the day, these
indefatigable sons of plunder are seen hanging from the pre-
cipices, looking out for prey; and, frequently, they start out
on the unwary, from behind the Savage rocks by which he is
surrounded; but then light is in his favour, to observe the
approaching contest and prepare for his defence: at night they
can lie, even in his path, shrouded by tumuli, or the darkness
alone; and, rushing from their ambuscade, overwhelm him
before he has time to apprehend aught but that he has received
his death-blow. From these considerations, I did not leave my
present secure quarters till early the following morning.
About forty wersts from Georgewesk are the baths of Kon-
stantinogorsk, which are much frequented by the Russians, even
from distant parts of the empire, on account of their mineral
virtues. They rise in the Beschau mountains, and their tem-
perature at the source varies from thirty to forty degrees of
Reaumur. The country around these baths is beautiful as well
as salubrious; and, from the efficacy of the waters, both in
external and internal application, besides the protection and
conveniences afforded visitants by the munificence of the
Emperor, even strangers come from afar to experience their
virtues. A Scotch colony of missionaries have established them-
selves in the neighbourhood of Konstantinogorsk; but it may be
regarded as an agricultural society, rather than a theological
48 THE WALLEY OF THIEVES.
college, their efforts in spreading religious instruction amongst
the infidel mountaineers having hitherto failed of success; the
few whom they have converted to Christianity, being generally
murdered by their countrymen, as soon as they fell into their
hands. To protect the colony itself from the plundering infidels,
a certain number of Russian troops are always stationed there.
Having crossed the river Podrouma from Georgewesk, the
plain still extended itself before me, with the exception of a very
deep ravine, or rather hollow, up and down which lay the road.
The descent and ascent were steep and difficult; quantities of
low impeding brush-wood covering the face of its slopes. The
spot had always been known as a favourite haunt of banditti;
and from the frequency of its scenes of robbery and assassination,
it is commonly called the Valley of Thieves. The governor of
Georgewesk had added to my own Cossack escort four more
men ; and as I had been warned of the probability of an attack,
even in broad day in this place of ambush, I set my whole
party on the alert; but we passed through it without any signs
of molestation. At certain distances on the vast plain which
extends to the foot of Caucasus, and along its seemingly inter-
minable chain, guards of Cossacks are stationed. Each body
consists of from four to six men, who watch alternately day and
night. The picture they present to the passing traveller, is
both clirious and romantic; harmonising in every way with the
wild regions they are sent to protect. A small hovel is con-
structed with reeds and branches of trees, close to which is
raised a kind of stage, but of no larger dimensions than to con-
tain a single person. It is elevated about twelve feet from the
ground; and while his comrades repose in the hut, a Cossack
sentinel stands here, day and night, on the look-out; and when
rººfz ，，zºzzzzºzzátazº： *…！！！！！！！！！zzzzzzzzºzoz�zººwººzzzzz
-






MOZDOCK. . 49
causes for nearer observation appear, the horses picqueted be-
neath, are ready at hand for their masters. The soldier on
guard is always enveloped in his bourka; which, together with
the rude workmanship of his post, when seen from afar, form
a no less picturesque than cheering object on that long, desolate,
and monotonous horizon. I halted for the night at a small
village, and reached Mozdock, my first step into Asia, about
noon the next day, Sunday, September 30. (O.S.)
Mozdock is a flourishing little town, situated on the banks of
the Terek, and possesses a respectable garrison, commanded by
a colonel, who is also governor of the place. A convoy (or
caravan) of merchandise, together with the post, depart from
the town every Sunday; but on that day only ; so that travellers
who arrive on any other day of the week, are obliged to await
there the appointed time and then cross the river with their
attendants and equipages before three o'clock, having several
wersts to go, on the opposite side, ere they can join the general -
rendezvous. But, previous to their setting forth, it is necessary
to purchase at Mozdock a stout harness for the number of horses
their carriages may require; also a full store of provisions for the
road. The Commandant, who did ample honour to the governor
of Georgewesk's kind demands in my behalf, gave me every
facility for the transport of my vehicle, and all other accommo-
dations for the journey; but he strongly recommended my
buying a horse for myself of the Tcherkasians. He urged, that
I should not be able to remain much longer with any comfort in
my carriage, on account of the steepness of the hills and badness
of the roads; and that, besides, if our convoy were attacked, it
were better, for defence, to be well-mounted. In order to assist
in this purchase, he proposed accompanying me to the opposite
VOL. I. - H -
50 RIVER TEREK.
bank of the river, where I was likely to procure the sort of steed
proper for so long and fatiguing an expedition. I accepted his
friendly offer, and we crossed the Terek on a float, which was
guided safely to the shore by means of a rope. The Tcherka-
sians, with whom we were to negociate, are a sort of off-set of
the people called Circassians.
This river, which separates Russian Europe from Russian
Asia, rises in the Caucasus, near Kobi; and the mountains,
whence it issues, are the highest seen from the near neighbour-
hood of Mozdock. The first course it takes is to the north,
making its way through a great portion of the breadth of this
tremendous pile. The stream, as it descends from its native
rocks, is exceedingly rapid; rushing onward (for I cannot give
it so mild an appellation as flowing) with a noise and violence
scarcely to be equalled by any other mountain-torrent; nor do
the swiftness and tumult of its progress diminish much for a long
stretch after it has reached the plain, but it goes rolling forward
to the north-west, as if still impelled by the plunge of its first
descent. About thirty wersts from Mozdock it makes a turn
eastward, and thence, gradually subsiding in turbulence, flows
on with increasing tranquillity as it approaches nearer the Cas-
pian shore. There it empties itself into several channels, which
bestow benefits as well as beauty on the districts they water,
until, that duty done, they unite again in the bosom of the Caspian
Sea. On one of the most considerable of these branches, or chan-
nels, the city of Kislar stands; a situation of great advantage. I am
thus particular in my account of this river, because, by its extent
and various divisions, it is likely to be a frequent companion of
the traveller in this part of the world: indeed, to him whose
destination is Tiflis, it travels by his side nearly half the way;
LITTLE KABARDA. 51
an animated and cheering change from the dull earthy flats he
had so lately been passing over.
On our gaining the opposite bank of the Terek, the colonel
brought me to a tract of ground covered with wretched huts,
serving as shelters for those who come from the suspected
countries of Asia in this direction, and who must here undergo
several days’ quarantine before they are allowed to proceed to
Europe. We found whole companies under this purification, as
well as many groups of mountaineers, with droves of horses,
which they usually bring down for sale previous to the departure
of every convoy for Georgia. These animals are not very large
in size, but they are strongly made, active, and hardy, and ex-
ceedingly sure-footed, from experience of the difficult and dan-
gerous country they have been accustomed to pass over. I
purchased one of the best, a fine, well-managed young horse,
for two hundred roubles; equal in beatity and points to an
English horse for the road of six times the price. Having com-
pleted my bargain, I took leave of the friendly Commandant,
and, accompanied by my own little party, resumed my way to -
join the convoy which comprised our future fellow-travellers.
We came up with them about three wersts onward from the
place of quarantine.
The country, at the foot of the Caucasus, for a considerable
distance to the eastward, is called Little Kabarda; the stretch
to the westward, being of larger extent, has the name of Great
Kabarda, running along the line of the mountains till it meets
the country of the Circassians. The people who inhabit these
two districts, are known to the Russians under the general ap-
pellation Tcherkess. They are the descendants of a mixed
people, whose various origins, characters, and customs, are now
H 2
52 LITTLE KABARDA.
nearly lost as marks of distinction, in the one common name they
bear, and the gradual adoption of each other's customs. At pre-
sent, the population of both Kabardas differ nothing in costume
from their neighbours, the Circassians. They generally speak
the same language, and are fond of considering themselves
branches of that stock. But the people of Little Kabarda, I am
informed, were literally a colony from Great Kabarda; driven
thence from their natural possessions by the more powerful
tribes. Circassia might, in former times, have provided itself
in the same way; and thus the stream of possession, emigration,
and population, flows on. There are, also, numerous Tatar
tribes, which extend themselves southward over the lower hills
and flat lands, which reach from the foot of the mountains to the
Kuban ; and then possess the banks of that river, westward, till
it terminates at the Black Sea. It is from amongst this wild
people, and the Kabardians, bordering on the Malka and Kou-
ma rivers, that Russia has formed its corps of Cossacks, known
by the general name of Cossacks of the Line of Caucasus. Their
principal duty is that of escorts to travellers, caravans, &c.
But they are often sent into the interior of the Caucasus, where
the Emperor has planted military posts: also into Georgia, with
the same object; for they are the only soldiers who are able to
attack the savage mountaineer on equal terms, with similar arms,
and a similar mode of warfare. When thus serving, they are as
faithful as brave, and defend their charge or their post with the
most determined resolution. -
On reaching the spot where we were to halt for the night, I
found every thing there bearing the face of military watchfulness.
The officer commanding the convoy had taken a good position,
and already distributed his arms and people for the protection of
convoy To TIFLIS. 53
his charge. Our force consisted of one six-pounder, a hundred
chasseurs, and forty Cossacks. The convoy it was to guard con-
sisted of the post (or mail), fifty chariots of salt, and as many of
European merchandise; travellers, about ten or twelve, mounted
on horseback; half a dozen bristchkas; and my own, with
another calèche, closed up the rear. I found the officer in com-
mand, and his subaltern, the only two persons under canvass.
He received me, however, with the accustomed welcome of his
nation; and ordered my equipage to be placed near the mail,
behind his tent, as the most secure situation, from all chance of
its being cut off. During the time we were together, I derived
considerable information respecting the countries of our march
from his conversation ; for he was observing and intelligent, and
for more than ten years had been in that line of duty, without
one day's leave of absence, or once having repassed the Terek.
At day-break a drum gave the signal for the horses, cattle,
&c. to be harnessed, and every one to prepare himself for
marching. At the expiration of half-an-hour, all were in readi-
ness; and the sounding of a second signal put the whole in mo–
tion. The gun, and a party of infantry, moved first. Several
Cossacks were advanced in front, whilst others were thrown out
to the left and right at various distances to prevent surprise.
The merchandise brought up the rear, with an adequate number
of chasseurs for its protection. We had this day, Monday, Oc-
tober the 1st (O. S.,) to march thirty wersts; but our pace was
tediously slow, in order to enable the laden chariots to keep up
with the lighter vehicles. Our way lay through steep hills and
wide ravines, breaking into a thousand wild and abrupt ascents
and descents, and winding away into depths whose precipitous
obscurities, increased, by contrast, the picturesque animation of
54 THE CONVOY ALARMED.
the road. A line of troops, with other horsemen in different
groups, were seen in the several openings of this mountain track,
costumed in a hundred fashions; armed with daggers, sabres,
carbines, pistols, in short the weapons of almost every country;
..while they had added a variety of odd contrivances hung about
themselves and their horses, for carrying ammunition, and pro-
viding for any other want in their march. Our little army and
its charge had advanced at a most funereal pace, nearly half its
day's journey, when, suddenly, about thirty horsemen appeared
on the hills, at no very great distance, making towards us. The
sight made us halt. For, although our force far out-numbered
that we saw, yet we could not be certain that hundreds were not
in their rear, to follow under cover of the ground and make sure
work of us. Accordingly, our experienced and alert captain lost
not a moment in putting all in a posture of defence. The part
of our convoy which consisted of travellers, numbered four or
five Russian gentlemen, going to Tiflis to fill stations in the civil
government; several Georgian and Armenian merchants, and
about eight or ten women, belonging to one of the gentlemen.
There were some servants also, who might be counted in our
array. Every individual, civil and military, while the hostile
group were drawing towards us, loaded his gun or pistol, or drew
forth his sword or dagger; all, from necessity, seeming eager to
begin the defence. Yet, notwithstanding this universal alacrity
of preparation, as I rode along their line to join my new ac-
quaintance in command, I could not but discern the most evident
absence of blood in the pale faces of several of our men-at-arms.
We were at that time passing through the Lesser Kabarda; and
the nature of the country, rough and intricate, and on all sides
leading to trackless hills, made it the more favourable for the at-
RELIEVED FROM ITS APPREHENSIONS. 55
tack of these brigands, who come down in hordes to the plunder
of a caravan. That effected, they can be out of sight in the
turning of a hill; and a few minutes carries them from all dan-
ger, into depths or mountain-shelters, where no foot but those
of their own practised mountaineers can reach, or pursue them.
We had stood prepared a considerable time, waiting the nearer
approach of the horsemen, to ascertain exactly what they were,
before we should open our means of defence offensively against
them; when at about the distance of five hundred yards the troop
halted. Our commanding officer and myself accompanied by
ten or twelve Cossacks, then rode out towards them; they dis-
patched an answering body to meet us; and, when within pistol
shot, one of this advance, held up a letter, calling out, “they
came from General del Pozzo.” This was verified immediately,
by the man riding up alone, and delivering the paper to our
officer. We were soon after joined by the whole troop, to the
no small joy of our friends behind, who saw the amicable ren-
counter; and they speedily, one after the other, trotted out of
the line of defence, to understand more clearly who and what
they were, who had caused them all such unnecessary alarm.
The letter which had been brought, was to hasten our convoy
commander, and his military companions, in the fulfilment of
their present duty; that they might assist in reinforcing the
garrison of a lately erected fort in another pass of the mountains;
the object of which was to prevent, if possible, the ruinous in-
cursions of the Tchetchinzi tribe into the lower country. This
tribe, which is very fierce and rapacious, inhabits that district of
the mountains whence flows the River Soondscha.
The weather, thanks to kind Providence, continued fine;
for its changes are often of tremendous consequence in these
56 • * CONVOY TO TIFLIS.
regions of waste, and flood, and precipice : and, after a fatiguing,
but far from uninteresting day's march, about four o'clock in
the evening, we reached our quarters for the night; namely,
Algovy Kabaki, otherwise, the fort of Constantine. • * 4
This post is one of the many Russian positions which maintain
the passes of the mountains, and is situated on a rising ground,
at the foot of a high hill, over which our next day's route
would lie. These positions are mere field-forts, surrounded by
a ditch. The inner face of the breast-work of the fort we were
then in, was additionally strengthened by a thick lining of
wicker-work. Of its commanding-officer, I can say little. My
friend, the captain of the convoy, passed the greater part of the
evening with me ; still augmenting, by the intelligence of his
conversation, the regret with which I bade him adieu. His
duty, as our protector, terminated there. He and his suite
departed; and, next morning, the 2d of October (O.S.), we were
to set forth again. Little danger being to be apprehended, it
was supposed for the first part of the day, we were furnished
with a very slender escort, — only twenty chasseurs, and ten
Cossacks; but we were told, that after attaining the summit
of the immense hill we had to mount, we should be joined there
by an additional force.
About five o'clock in the morning, the whole convoy began
to move; and the action was sufficiently demonstrative of its
ponderous load. The hills Were excessively steep, and the paths
wet, slippery, and full of obstacles, from the thickness of the
woods with which all these heights are covered. These incon-
veniences were become additionally annoying, from the tedious-
ness and slow progress of the oxen in dragging their Cumbrous
burthens up such rugged roads. Having achieved seven wersts
CONVOY TO TIFLIS. 57
of one continued ascent, we, in front, gained the summit of the
highest hill of the range, which here runs parallel with that of
the Caucasus, and appears to be divided from those cloud-
capped mountains by a vast plain ; but, on crossing it, we found
it only flat by comparison. . . . . .
On reaching the top of the hill, we were hailed by our pro-
mised reinforcement, — fifty soldiers, with a six-pounder, all
officer, and about twenty Cossacks. The officer halted us for
an hour, in order to let the tail of the waggon-column come up.
As soon as the whole had closed in, we proceeded, beginning a
gentle descent, on a fine road between rough heights, and a
wild desolate looking country, without a tree. When we ar-
rived at some little distance from the borders of the plain, the
officer, who was a mere boy in years, made a stop, and announced
his intention of resting the whole party there for several hours,
the beasts being so fatigued by their exertions, as to be knocking
up on all sides of us. . He apprised me, that the post, however,
must proceed to Gregoropolis without delay; and he left me
to my own pleasure to accompany it, or remain for the marching
of the convoy; which, he added, could not possibly reach that
post before midnight. Dispatch being at present my first aim,
I did not hesitate accepting the proposal, but requested as many
Cossacks for an escort, as he could conveniently spare. Most
of my fellow-travellers, who were independent of the mer-
chandise, on hearing my determination, declared their dislike
of halting so long in so bleak a situation, and decided at once
to be my companions. We then set forth, marshalling our
Cossacks, some in front, others on our flanks; and some in ad-
vance to prevent surprise; and, besides these, every individual
else of the party was ready with his arms, in case of necessity.
VOL. I. I
58 GENERAL DEL POZZO.
Our precautions, happily, were not put to the test; and, after
a trot of twenty wersts, over a low, uneven country, terminating
in the more level plain, we at last reached the fort, or redoubt,
of Gregoropolis.
This place was by far the most considerable of the kind I
had yet seen; and, close to it, was a Cossack look-out, which,
from its very elevated construction, commanded a great extent
of view. The Major of the fort received us with every attention;
and pressed me to remain a few hours at least behind the
convoy, to meet General del Pozzo, who was expected next
day at Gregoropolis, in his way to Mozdock. Having Count
Platoff’s letter to deliver to the General, and wishing parti-
cularly to make the acquaintance of a man, the circumstances
of whose life were not more extraordinary, than his conduct has
been admirable, I readily consented. The character of the
country I was in, made all divisions of company a matter of
increased risk; but the temptation was great ; and none knew
the danger better, by severe experience, than General del Pozzo
himself. -
Though an Italian by birth, he has passed the greatest part of
his manhood in the Russian Imperial service; and no small
portion of that time in these remote mountainous regions.
Indeed, to his observation, promptitude, and effective action,
Russia is chiefly indebted for the security with which she now
holds the key of this part of Asia. He understands the whole
country well; its bearings, and the people who inhabit it. He
has selected the best stations for a commanding line, and esta-
blished his posts accordingly. But it is to his intimate acquaint-
ance with the different tribes, we must ascribe his fullest suffi-
ciency; for, being in secret communication with certain native
GENERAL DEL POZZO. 59
individuals in each, he is enabled by their information to
frustrate any scheme of intended warfare or depredation; and
often to come at the knowledge of the existence and places of
captivity of any unfortunate Christians who may have become
their prisoners. These latter advantages beyond his compeers
were dearly purchased by the General. He, himself, had the
misfortune, several years ago, to fall into the hands of a party of the
Tchetchinzi, who, carrying him away into their rocky fastnesses,
treated him with every hardship their savage natures could
devise; yet they preserved him alive because they knew some-
thing of his importance to his sovereign, and hoped to get a
rich reward for his ransom. Besides, such are the strange in-
consistencies amongst barbarians, while loading him with se-
verities, they frequently applied to his acknowledged superior
wisdom to decide not only disputes in their domestic relations,
but often greater matters of discussion, implicating the general
interests of the tribe. These circumstances, and the length of
his captivity, enabled him to make considerable progress in the
acquirement of the Tchetchinzi language, and to become mi-
nutely acquainted with their traditions, manners, customs, and
the probable views of their depredatory way of life. He also
formed connections amongst them which he hoped might, at
some future day, (should he ever regain his liberty,) enable him
yet farther to serve Russia in her most essential points on the
line of the Caucasus. After having worn away twelve long
months in this anxious state, between hope and fear, and the
present evils of slavery, ten thousand roubles, I am informed,
were offered, and accepted, for his ransom ; and he returned to
freedom, and the exercise of those talents which have increased
I 2
60 THE TCHETCHINZI.
the power and territory of his government, and covered himself,
with honour. &
These Tchetchinzi, whose temporary yoke was only schooling
their prisoner how at some future day, a more lasting one might
be laid upon themselves, are considered the most formidable of
all the tribes which inhabit the innumerable rocky valleys of the
eastern line of Caucasus. Their predatory excursions, whether
in large or small bodies, are not only a dread to their own im-
mediate neighbours, tribes like themselves though of less ex-
tent and power; but their sudden descents, ambuscades, and
continued warfare, keep the disciplined Russians constantly on
the alert. These lords of the mountains seem never to rest, day
nor night. Unwearied in their watch for prey; like lightning
in attack, for they strike, or are lost to sight as quickly ; un-
sparing in plunder; and murderous to them they rob, none ever
escape their merciless steel, except it may be Christians; whom
they save, because they hope farther plunder in their ransoms.
Surely, in effect, there is hardly more difference between mam
and a beast, than between savage men and men civilised; men,
taught the humanities with the great capacities of their nature.
The Tchetchinzi bring out their youth at a very early age to take
part in marauding expeditions; and the more bold and san-
guinary they show themselves, the higher they stand in the
estimation of the tribe. Indeed, he who most frequently sur-
passes the rest in the execution of desperate and cruel enter-
prises, if they prove successful, commonly becomes the leader
of his brethren, and consequently the chief of many families.
He does not aim at this pre-eminence from ambition to govern
his countrymen, or to hold a greater power amongst them than
any other man, but solely to stand forth an object of peculiar
| THE TCHETCHINZI. 61.
renown for his bravery ; honoured by his own people, and a
terror to all others who hear his name. At present this latter
emulation particularly points to the Russians. The Tchetchinzi.
regard them as their most formidable enemy; and to attack and
weaken their power by every open and covert way, in large
parties and in small, by the destruction of convoys, the cutting
off of detachments, and the surprisal of posts, to molest them in
all, or in any of these ways, is the constant object of Tchetchinzi
vigilance; and few are the soldiers here, who have not had some
skirmish with the tribe. Besides the many chiefs, whom their
valour has raised to distinction over their numerous brethren,
the whole nation looks up to one, pre-eminent above the rest.
His is a kind of hereditary claim ; for he is always chosen from
a family that has for ages been revered as the most ancient in all
the tribes; in short, most likely, the great paternal house. He
is their prince, and he alone commands or directs when the
whole force is called upon to revenge any public insult. He has
no jurisdiction whatever, in the civil way; nor can his mandate
in any case, inflict punishment on one of the people. The
various families have a sort of common law amongst themselves;
certain usages of custom, which maintain property and peace
with each other. Whenever this mutual confidence is violated,
a certain number of elders take cognisance of the transaction,
and pronounce judgment. Such occasions, however, seldom
occur; but when they do, the offender, according to their only
idea of satisfactory justice, is instantly put to death ; his dwell-
ing erased, and whatever he may have possessed, given to the
party injured. . . . . .
- As the Mahometan was the last religion attempted to be
introduced amongst these people, they suppose themselves to
62 THE TCHETCHINZI.
be good Mussulmen. But, with respect to any knowledge they
have of its doctrines, they are as ignorant as of any recollection
of what that Christianity was, which was once professed by their
ancestors. All that shows they have had any thing to do with
the Arabian prophet, consists in a few domestic regulations.
And the remnants of a better belief are only to be found in the
strictness of their maintaining the Easter or Spring fast; and a
sort of blind veneration, with which they hold, as sacred, the
ruined remains of those churches at whose altars the Christian
precepts were once delivered. .
They have no priests of any kind; hence their marriages are
mere domestic contracts, agreed on between the parents of the
parties. The bride always brings a dower, consisting of cattle,
&c. proportioned in value according to the wealth of her family.
She is brought home to the house of her betrothed husband,
and then the ceremony is completed by dancing, drinking, and
carousal. From the custom of the sons never migrating from
the paternal spot, families, from one stock, increase from single
sheds to considerable villages. Each habitation of these people
is separated into three divisions; one for the women, another
for the men, and a third for the horses and other cattle. The
whole little establishment is then encircled by a fence of wicker-
work, or stones.
The women not only superintend every domestic arrange-
ment, but attend the culture of the corn, and the growth of
tobacco. The latter plant is raised in small portions, merely as
an article of individual luxury for their husbands; and these
gentlemen lose no opportunity of enjoying it in perfect selfish
idleness. When not a-stir on plundering expeditions, or en-
gaged in schemes of warfare, (for there are always some on the
PROGRESS OF THE CONVOY. 63
look-out towards these objects,) these men, so active in the
field, allow nothing to disturb their reposing indolence; or
rather, we might say, the imbruting excess with which they
indulge themselves in the misuse of spirituous liquors, to the
temporary annihilation of all their faculties.
Their national dress and weapons, in general differ little
from the costume of the Cossacks of the Caucasian line; but my
military friend of our first convoy, told me he had seen several
of the Tchetchinzi, carrying short spears and oval shields, with
small iron scull-caps on their heads, and gauntlets of the same
metal protecting their lower arm and hands. Those, thus ha-
bited, were, comparatively, few in number. The men are stout
and robust in their persons, with fine countenances and dark
complexions. The women are not to be described, being kept
so close as not to be seen by strangers, even of their own tribe.
Still it was not improbable that accident might have given Ge-
neral del Pozzo, in his captivity, a glimpse of some of them;
and I anticipated some information of the sort, when I should
converse with him ; but I was yet to be deprived of the expected
gratification.
The convoy, and my fellow-travellers set forth again, early in
the morning of October 3d (O.S.), the day after we arrived; but
it was under so heavy a rain, that I thought less of my impru-
dence in having decided to remain behind them. At noon, the
weather began to clear; and almost at the same instant a courier
appeared from the general, to inform the officer at the fort, that
his Excellency's arrival there was uncertain ; he being detained
at the new redoubt, negociating with a party of the Tchetchinzi,
for the recovery of an unfortunate European lady who had be-
come their prisoner. The circumstances of her captivity were
particularly distressing, Her husband, who was a Cossack officer
64 - CRUELTIES OF THE TCHETCHINZI.
had left Kislar for this mountain journey, accompanied by his
wife and a single servant, without any escort whatever. The too
probable consequences of his rashness followed; he was attacked
by a party of these brigands. His coachman and his servant
were murdered ; and, before the officer had time for any defence,
the robbers fired into the carriage, and killed him by the side of
his wife. They then plundered the equipage, leaving the dead
bodies on the scene of murder, and carried the wretched lady
into the mountains, where they sold her to a chief going further
into the interior. From the unsuspected sources of communi-
cation which General del Pozzo has amongst these people, he
soon arrived at the knowledge of who were the actors in this
horrid tragedy; and, with admirable address, lost no time in
possessing himself of their persons. He now holds them as
hostages for the safety of the lady, and proclaims his intention
to detain them till she is repurchased, and brought, unharmed,
to his protection. This happy result of his humane exertions
he expects daily to arrive; but, meanwhile, does not deem it
proper to stir from the redoubt till she really shall appear; and
so exchange the most horrible servitude, for those respectful
consolations which every humane mind would be solicitous to ad-
minister to her wretched state. This poor lady's calamity, is one
instance out of many of the barbarity with which these hereditary
plunderers maltreat their unfortunate captives; and, indeed, the
stories we are daily told, of the refined, or rather savage cruelties,
practised on the defenceless human creature who falls in their
way, are enough to shake the resolution of any young traveller
commencing a journey through so perilous a country. ... At least,
the apprehensive vigilance which must accompany him at every
step, in crossing these awful mountains, cannot but cast a shade
VIEWS OF CAUCASUS. 65
over scenery, perhaps the sublimest in the world; obscuring the
impressions of its grandeur, by a deeper, but less noble one, of
fear. - -
From the now perfectly uncertain time of General del Pozzo's
appearance at Gregoropolis, I gave up the idea of our meeting
there; and proposed my immediate departure. The convoy
had been gone many hours; but confiding my letter for His
Excellency to the commanding-officer of the fort, I was fur-
nished with an escort of twelve Cossacks, and set forth on my
way to Wlady-Caucasus.
The road lay over a continuation of the extensive plain, part
of which we had crossed the day before : it bore a direction due
east. On our right rolled the Terek, breaking over its stony
bed, and washing with a surge, rather than a flowing stream,
the rocky bases of the mountains which rise in progressive
acclivities from its bold shores. The day had begun to clear
about noon; and the dark curtain of vapours, which had so long
shut these stupendous hills from my sight, broke away into a
thousand masses of fleecy clouds; and, as they gradually glided
downwards, exhaled into ether, or separated across the brows of
the mountains, the vast piles of Caucasus were presented to my
view; a world of themselves; rocky, rugged, and capped with
snow; stretching east and west beyond the reach of vision,
and shooting far into the skies. – It was a sight to make the
senses pause ; to oppress even respiration, by the weight of
the impression on the mind, of such vast overpowering
sublimity. -
The proud head of Elborus was yet far distant; but it rose
in hoary majesty above all, the sovereign of these giant moun-
tains; finely contrasting its silvery diadem, the Snow of ages,
VOL. I. K
66 t t WLADY-CAUCASUS.
with the blue misty brows of its immediate subject range; and
they, being yet partially shrouded in the dissolving masses of
white cloud, derived increased beauty from comparisons with
the bold and black forms of the lower mountains, nearer the
plain, whose rude and towering tops, and almost perpendicular
sides, sublimely carry the astonished eye along the awful pic-
ture; creating those feelings of terrific admiration, to which
words can give no name. . - -
After a ride of twenty-two wersts, we reached the key of the
celebrated pass into Georgia, where I rejoined my companions.
Wlady-Caucasus is one of the most important, and strongest
military posts the Russians possess along the foot of the Cau-
casus. It generally has a whole regiment in garrison ; and is
the principal depot for supplying the various minor forts of the
neighbouring stations in the mountains. It stands on some high
ground on the banks of the Terek, sufficiently elevated to com-
mand the approach to the pass, and not near enough to any
other height, to be subject to the fire of the natives. The town
increases rapidly, and so does the population in its vicinity; for
here, as elsewhere along this frontier, the remark is verified,
that wherever the Russians erect a fort, hundreds of Tatars
draw near, and establish themselves in little villages. This volun-
tary proceeding, by bringing them in unsuspicious, and there-
fore amicable contact, with the Europeans, has tended greatly to
the civilisation of this branch of the Tatar race; and hence, it
is to be hoped, the influence of humane manners may gradually
diffuse itself to more distant tribes. These establishments have
already made considerable progress in domestic habits, and are
become attentive to certain little comforts, regarded as neces-
saries in ordinary civilised life, but of which their still barba-
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WLADY-CAUCASUS. * 67
rous kindred tribes have not even an idea. The people, called
Tatars, are remnants of the Huns, whose too-abundant popula-
tion, centuries ago, overwhelmed Europe like a deluge. The
ancient consequence of this nation may still be traced in the line
of country they possessed, and which was yet too narrow to con-
tain its people. Their dominion extended over the Crimea, and
all the territory between the Don and Dnieper; stretching to
the Black Sea, and looking towards the Caspian. They planted
cities on the Terek and the Kuban ; and that they were worthy
of a great people, the ruins of Matschar, near the former river,
nobly testify. . sº - , .
As from this point, Wlady-Caucasus, our road would be
direct through the heart of the mountains, up and down ac-
clivities which would be termed precipices, in the more tameable
Alps or Appenines of Europe, we here abandoned our piece of
artillery, as well as the heavy part of the convoy; and, lightened
of these two loads, set forth, with a more volant motion, under
an escort of about forty soldiers, an officer, and a few Cossacks.
At starting, our good commander of the fort particularly enjoined
us to keep close together. Indeed, on no account to let any
one of the party stray away, or lag behind the main body; for
the path was so beset with lurking banditti, hid in all quarters
of the rocks, that any straggler might instantly become their
prize; and his liberty, if not his blood, pay the forfeit of his
negligence. - &
At six o'clock in the morning, we began our march ; taking
as much military precaution as the nature of our route would
admit. We crossed the Terek, over a bridge close to the town.
The river there, at this season of the year, is not usually wide,
but it was extremely rapid; and, from its course being impeded
K 2
68 e ROAD THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS.
by numerous rocks in its channel, the noise with which it
struggles for a passage, and rushes over them, may be heard
at a great distance. Along the northern bank of the stream,
the huts and little gardens of the settled Tatars, soften, with
their forms of the gentler picturesque, the vast and terrible out-
lines of nature by which they are surrounded.
The valley, through which the Terek flows, was anciently
denominated Porta Caucausia, from its being the great gate of
communication between the nations on each side the mountains.
Kathérine the Second was the first European sovereign whose
troops ever passed it from the north ; a party of whom, under
General Tottleben, penetrated into Georgia, and paved the way
for those successes which afterwards determined the Empress
to establish a high road direct from this pass to Tiflis. But
this project, so pregnant with great consequences, was left to
be begun and completed by her grandson, his present Imperial
Majesty; who sent General Prince Tchitchianoff, to commence
the undertaking, about the beginning of the year 1804; and,
by the most indefatigable labour on the side of the workmen,
and attentive zeal on his, it is now finished: no less an achieve-
ment of incalculable utility, than it is one to be wondered at, *
and to command the lasting gratitude of all who have experienced ,
its securities. .
As we travelled onward, along the right bank of the river, we
found it in many places full a quarter of a mile broad; and in
others, where the cliffs projected very much, it was hardly thirty
yards. Indeed, I am informed, there are points, where the
opposite rocks draw so near, as to narrow the stream to less
than half that width. When this is the case, the turbulence and
BALTY. 69
rage of the waters increase with the difficulties, to a degree that
covers the barrier rocks, and the stream itself, with foam.
For the first eight or ten wersts of our march from Wlady-
Caucasus, the slopes of the mountains, on both sides the Terek,
were clothed with trees and thick underwood; but, as we pene-
trated deeper into the valley, they gradually lost their verdure, be-
coming stony and barren. On reaching Balty, a small but strong
fort about twelve wersts forward, the hills assumed bolder forms, .
presenting huge protruding masses of rock, with very few spots
of shrub or tree. The road here wears rather a face of danger,
and must have been made, even thus passable, by the severest
labour, aided by gun-powder. It runs beneath pendant arch-
ways of stone, which are merely high enough to allow the pas-
sage under them of a low carriage; but the path is so narrow as
scarcely to admit two to move abreast, or pass each other, should
they be so unlucky as to encounter; and on one side of the road
is the edge of a precipice, which, in some places, is sixty feet
deep ; and in others, above one hundred. At the bottom of
this abyss are the roaring waters of the Terek. In casting the
eye upwards, still blacker, and terrible precipices are above us.
We see large projections of rock, many thousand tons in weight,
hanging from the beetling steep of the mountain, threatening
destruction to all below: and it is not always a vain apprehen-
sion. Many of these huge masses have been launched down-
wards by the effect of a sudden thaw ; and at various times, and
various places, have so completely blocked up the regular road,
as to compel the traveller to pass round them, often so near the
brink of the precipice, as to be at the peril of his life.
At another military station, called Lars, where we were to
change our escort, the scene becomes still wilder and more
70 POST AT LARS.
stupendous. The valley narrows to the appearance of a frightful
chasm; so steep, so rugged, so walled in with rocks, as if cleft
by the waters of the deluge. Its granite sides are almost perpen-
dicular, and are many hundred feet in height. They are sur-
mounted by summits lost in the clouds, which sweep along their
ridges, or, rolling down the gloomy face of the abyss, form a sea
of vapours, mingling with the rocks above our heads, as extra-
ordinary as it is sublime. But, in short, that undescribable
emotion of the soul, which instinctively acknowledges the pre-
sence of such amazing grandeur in Nature's works, is almost
always our companion in these regions. -
Most of the Russian posts here, are on stations formerly
occupied by the ancients, for the same purpose ; and the remains
of these old fortresses may frequently be found in digging
foundations for the new. At Lars, and about a werst from it,
walls and towers of a commanding height, still rise in frowning,
though decayed majesty, over the abrupt points of rock which
defend the passage of the valley. By some, it is said to be one
of the spots, where the locks or barriers, so much in use in
times of antiquity, were erected; and indeed this part of the
defile is so shut by nature, little trouble would be necessary to
throw piles across, and close the whole with gates.
Evening came on, while we were yet some distance from our
halting-place. I regretted it the more, as the darkness would
deprive us of every sense of the scenery we were passing
through, except its probable danger. The increasing gloom and
indistinctness of the surrounding objects ; the history of the
place, in which we now silently and apprehensively travelled;
the hoarse murmurs of the rushing waters at the foot of the
ravine; and the vague musings which possess a man journeying
ANCIENT CASTLE AT DERIAL. 71
in the blackness of night, through strange countries, desart and --
solitary; all, engendered sensations in the breast, more of terror
than of fear, – an awe of something unknown.
Derial was our post for the night. As we drew near it, our
road was rendered still more obscure, by its leading, for a con-
siderable way, through a subterraneous passage cut in the solid
rock. It is about a mile from the fort. We emerged on the
side of the river, at the foot of a very steep precipice; thence
crossed the stream on a wooden bridge ; and, additionally
guarded by a detachment from the fort, reached our quarters in
safety. Thus closed our first day's advance into the Caucasus.
Information having been brought, that a marauding band of
the natives were occupying a tract we must pass over next day;
for the security of the convoy, the officer of the fort sent out
a party of infantry, early in the morning, to dislodge them.
Our march being therefore delayed, till news of the success of
the expedition should arrive, I had time to observe some of
the country through which we had passed the preceding night.
The redoubt of the Russian post of Derial stands at the bottom
of the gigantic chasm of that name, and is overhung by such
enormous masses of rock as to make its situation terrible. On
the summit of one of these promontories, impending over the
left bank of the Terek, are to be seen the remains of a very
ancient castle. With some difficulty I scrambled up to it, and
found the ruins consisted of one strong square tower, with thick
massive walls surrounding it, and encircling a space besides,
sufficient to garrison several hundred soldiers. This seemed the
citadel of the pass; but I observed, that on all the points where
the rocks might have formed advantageous lodgements for any
enemy who had been dexterous enough to gain them, the ruins
72 PASSES OF CAUCASUS.
of subordinate out-works were visible. The face of the moun-
tain behind the tower had been hewn, with manifest great
labour, into a kind of aqueduct, to convey water to the garrison.
And, when we consider that there would be ground within its
lines to supply themselves and cattle with food, we could not
suppose a place better adapted for the purposes of such a station.
A subterraneous passage runs down from the castle to the bank
of the river, communicating, probably, with other works which
- might be below, to bar more immediately, the ingress of the
valley. The pass, at this place, is not more than thirty yards
across; which facility of nature, agreeing with the vestiges along
its borders, leaves no doubt in my mind that this, from earliest
times, has been one of the main doors of communication with
the nations of the north, direct from Iberia. Pliny thus describes
these defiles of the Caucasus, and the mode of maintaining
them : —“ Each pass was closed by large beams of wood,
pointed with iron. In the midst of the narrow valley flowed a
a river. The southern extremity was protected by a castle built
on a high rock. This defence was to prevent incursions from
the people of the north.” “ - * -
According to Ptolemy, there were three of these great passes.
The Pyle Sarmatae, the Pyle Albanie, and the Via Caspia. It is
likely that the first, the Pyle Sarmatae, is the same with the
Porta Iberica, or Porta Caucausia, mentioned by Strabo, and the
present pass, or valley of the Terek. The two latter, the Pyle
Albanie and the Via Caspia, merely bestow two names on one
place, which is the pass now called Derbent. But there was
another, Porta Cumana, and that lay farther westward. Pliny
* Lib. vi. c. 11.
s-
-
S
º
-
-
-
º






PASSES OF CAUCASUS. - 73
notices it particularly, describing its fortress by the name of
Cumania. These defiles, as keys of the East, have always been
vigilantly guarded by the possessors, who knew their value. But
Leon the First, rather chose to incur an inroad from the Barba-
rians, than be at the smaller expense of keeping the gate that
fixed their boundary. Justinian knew better; and concluded a
treaty with Kobad King of Persia, (A. D. 532.,) agreeing, that
this pass should be protected by both sovereigns in common;
or, if totally confided to Kobad's troops, the Roman should pay
the Persian monarch, one million and a hundred thousand pounds
weight of gold, in reward of the double service!”
The first syllable in the word Derial, as well as in that of
Derbent, in the Asiatic languages, implies gate, door, or narrow
pass; which confirms the other evidences, that here was the chief
barrier of the valley, and that the castellated promontories of
Lars, and other minor posts lower down, were probably the chain
of communication from this great station, to others of different
magnitude; but all to the same purport, ports of defence against
the Barbarians.
I had time sufficient, before our detachment came in, to attempt
making a sketch or two of the objects around me. f I took my
views from the old fortified height; and from the Russian redoubt
below: but no pencil can convey, nor pen describe, the grandeur
of the scene. At this one tremendous point, the chasm rises
from the river's brink, upwards of a thousand feet. Its sides are
broken into clefts and projections, dark and frowning; so high,
so close, so overhanging, that even at mid-day the whole is
covered with a shadow bordering on twilight. According to the
* Procop. B. P. + Plate 3.
WOL. I. L
74 VIEWS OF CAUCASUS.
calculations of Dr. Renniggs, who visited the Caucasus in 1781,
the elevation of the mountains directly opposite the castle of
Derial, is not less than three thousand seven hundred and eighty-
six feet. This measurement was the result of several observ-
ations; and it may be received as the common height of nearly
the whole range, east and west, with the exception of Elborus
and Kasibeck. - - -
Our road from Derial lost nothing of its gloomy magnificence,
all the way to the sort of gorge, whither the soldiers had been
sent to dislodge its unwelcome guests; and there we found a
spot peculiarly wild, and fitted to the uses of its late inhabitants.
Vast quantities of low thick bushes, and brushwood, occupied a
suspicious-looking hollow on our left; which natural trench, so
well covered from the eye of observation, terminated at a point
that communicated its egress with the accesses of the mountain.
But so difficult did they seem, that only one was visible, by
which it appeared possible to us for the boldest adventurers to
descend. But, descend they do, and in no insufficient numbers;
concealing themselves in the thickets till opportunity presents
itself to spring upon their prey. Before the precaution was
adopted, to send out a party of military, literally to beat the
bushes, and clear the way, this road was one continued scene of
bloodshed and robbery. These mountain-brigands being sure,
from knowledge of their own paths and agility in gaining them,
of always escaping pursuit, never failed to be in waiting on every
approaching convoy; and keeping close behind their brush-wood,
or broken rocks, fired on the unwary people as they passed ;
killing, or wounding numbers. The survivors, too often taking
to flight, left the spoil to the leisurely collection of the
victors. . - -
VIEWS OF CAUCASUS. 75
Our escort was reinforced by those who had fulfilled the
advance duty of the night before; and the whole moved on
without molestation, though several times we could discern dif-
ferent parties of the banditti scrambling high amongst the rocks.
Their desperate situations, and savage costume, heightened the
Salvator-Rosa picture of the scene. But from the chance of the
road not being quite free from them, I was always prevented,
though often induced to halt alone for a few minutes, to snatch
a hasty sketch. The officer of the convoy would not allow it, as
any single straggler might be cut off in a moment, by the sudden
spring of one of the undiscovered ambushes. But I could not
resist the temptation entirely ; and, once or twice I detained a
chasseur or two with me, while I tried to catch some loose
memorandums of those mighty mountains I might never see
again.
As we advanced in the valley, we found testimonies of the
most terrible convulsions of nature. Basaltic columns appeared
in huge masses over the surface of the mountain, and taking
various directions. Some shot horizontally into its side; some
stood in erect piles against it; and others inclined, more or less,
from the perpendicular. These might be taken, when viewed
at a little distance, for the ruins of some vast antediluvian city.
The shattered remains of extensive palaces, castles, temples, and
embattled walls, seemed to spread every where; while, here and
there, a space of scanty verdure, 6r a large fragment of pure
granite, separated these more than semblances of awful change.
There can be no doubt, that the alternate influences of heat and
cold, have been prime agents in producing the present chaotic
state of this valley. Anciently, subterraneous fires, and subse-
quently, the sun's effect upon its incumbent snows, acting also
L 2
76 VIEWS OF CAUCASUS.
upon the interior ice, which former thaws have insinuated into
the fissures of the mountains. At the season of the year when
the sun's power is greatest, the snow melts into floods, and
penetrating still deeper into the clefts of the rocks, loosens those
which project, from their grasp of the mountain, and sends
them rolling down into the glen, sweeping all before them,
with a noise like thunder; but so much louder, as to convulse
the air to a degree that shakes the foundation of the neighbour
cliffs, and, unriveting others, launches them also, to augment
the scattered wreck below. Owing to similar accidents, the
road was often obliged to wind round the obstructing masses;
or when that could not be done, from the nearness of the pre-
cipice, it went over them ; the ascents and descents being of
course particularly steep and hazardous. In crossing one of
these, the bolt which unites the front wheels of my calèche with
its carriage, broke. The dilemma was great, on account of the
loss of time that would be incurred in restoring the machine to
a moveable state, and afterwards (until we could reach a place
where it might be properly repaired,) keeping pace with its
crippled movements. The village of Kasibeck, a distance of
six wersts, was the point we had in view. And by the aid of
ropes, good contrivance, and the good-natured alacrity of some
of the escort, who literally put their shoulders to the wheel,
it and ourselves arrived without further mishap, at the desired
halting place, about two o'clock P. M. - -
The vale now began to open, presenting a prodigiously fine
scene; an infinity of mountains, of every shape and aerial colour
rising one above the other, and crowned with the pale head of
the towering Kasibeck. The height of this mountain, which
contests the palm of sublimity with Elborus, has been estimated
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KASIBECK. 77
by Dr. Parrot at 14,400 feet, or 2,400 fathoms, above the level
of the Black Sea. And indeed, in remote times, when these
countries did not boast such regularly tracked paths, these two
pre-eminent pillars of the Earth, must have formed excellent
land-marks for the traveller, exploring his way through such
untrodden wilds. The village which now bears the name of
Kasibeck, was originally called Steppan Zminda, from the church
of that Saint, which stands close to it.
The house where I halted, during the necessary repairs of my
carriage, was the mansion of the widow of a native chief, to whom
from his attachment and services to the Russians, they had
given the rank of Major-general in the Imperial army. As sur-
names are unknown amongst these people, to accommodate him-
self to the usages of his new masters, he took that of Kasibeck,
in reference to the hoary mountain, under whose shadow he and
his ancestors had dwelt; and, by custom, from him the village
itself gradually received the same appellation. - -
The natives in this neighbourhood are of the Ossi tribe; a
people of mixed persuasions, christian, mahometan, and pagan.
The village of Kasibeck, as well as a few others in its immediate
vicinity, is inhabited by Christians professing the same faith and
observances as the Georgians. Their lately deceased chief was
eminent for setting an example to his people of strict attention
to all religious ordinances, prayer, fasts, and holy festivals; and
he exerted his power to the utmost in constraining all under his
- jurisdiction, not only to take part in these sacred duties, but to
preserve with reverence the remains of those ancient but ruined
edifices, in which their fathers had first offered prayers to the
only true God. He, himself, erected a new and elegant church
for his brother Christians, very near the spot where the old one
'78 THE OSSI TRIBE.
of former times is yet revered in its fallen towers. That ve-
nerable structure, together with one on the opposite hill, was
the work of the renowned Princess Tamara, of Georgia, nearly
six hundred years ago. Her zealous piety converted the people
of her dominions to Christianity; and we still find, in the moul-
dering remains of the buildings she reared to its honour, in every
part of this stupendous barrier, the most noble monuments to
her memory. -- - -
It is said, that the present race of Ossi Christians are amongst
the most civilised of the mountaineers. This may be: but, in
spite of their better faith, and better laws, they are occasionally
not less expert at robbery and murder, than their brethren of
mahometan and heathen creeds. The men are strong, active,
and well made ; with dark complexions, and a peculiarly lower-
ing look; an aspect, more accordant with the latter part of
their character, than that of their pretensions to piety, and its
consequent blameless life. -
They are habited in the manner of the Circassians; and never
appear without the common weapon of the country, a dagger, in
their girdle. Its form is broad near the handle, tapering down
to a long point; the whole being about eighteen inches in
length. In short, there is a general appearance of offence and
defence in everything we see; which must always be the case as
we retrograde nearer to man in a state of nature, where the law
of force has not yet given place to the law of reason: every
body is armed, every house is a sort of little fortress. The ha-
bitation of the late General Kasibeck is built of stone, of a
quadrangular shape, somewhat like a square fort, being defended
by a high parapeted wall, with loop-holes, and small watch- .
towers. There is only one entrance, and that is through a very
ENTERTAINMENT AT GENERAL KASIBECK's. 79
narrow door, which, when shut, completely closes up the whole.
The family themselves inhabit one of the sides of the quadrangle,
looking inwards; and in the opposite corner are a suite of ex-
cellent rooms, set apart for the reception of travellers of distinc-
tion. I had been honoured in being ushered into these apart-
ments as soon as I arrived; and I was greeted by a little boy
about twelve years old, the son and representative of the late
General-chief, who performed the hospitable duties of the house
with the grace of one twice his age. His mother, the mistress
of the mansion, did not make her appearance, being unwell;
but she had ordered refreshment to be spread for me, which
consisted of dried fish, some small pieces of roast meat, excellent
bread and butter, and, after all, some as excellent coffee. Two
of my fellow-travellers partook of this repast, and were as
amused as myself with the discordant aspects and devoirs of our
attendants; their assassin-like looks and garb giving them more
the appearance of banditti than that of serving-men, for they
were all armed, and had their breast-pouches filled with cart-
ridges. Indeed, it could not but cross me, once or twice, that
they might eventually prove as savage as they seemed. For, it
was not improbable that these very people, who were now so
obsequiously providing for my wants, might, on our advance to
Kobi, if I gave them opportunity, way-lay and rob, if not abso-
lutely murder me: a mode of farewell, to recently welcomed
guests, not very uncommon amongst these rapacious moun-
taineers. In their opinions, within the gate, and without it,
makes all the difference in the rites of hospitality, and therefore
in the bonds of faith, between host and traveller. . . . . .
I was told the old General died rich, and that the greater part
of his wealth was accumulated in the earlier part of his life, some
80 EXTORTIONS OF THE MOUNTAIN CHIEFS.
twenty-five or thirty years before his zeal for the ways of Chris-
tianity manifested itself, along with the first appearance of the
Russian military posts along the valley; which about that time
began to escort travellers, and merchandise, through its dangerous
passes. Prior to this period, both merchant, and charge, de-
pended on the good faith of the chiefs through whose possessions
he must travel. To them he looked for protection, guides, and.
not beasts of burthen, but men to transport his goods from
Europe into Georgia; every article being then, from the track-
less roads, of necessity carried on the backs of the natives. The
hire of these was an immense expense; besides which, each inde-
pendent chief exacted a large sum for the privilege of passing
through his territory. Other tolls were also paid in the shape
of cloth, linen, leather, &c. just as the will of the extortioners
chose to demand. Indeed, the whole of these impositions being
arbitrary, it depended entirely on the consciences of the de-
manders, at what charge the poor defenceless trafficker should
convey away any part of his property; and it has often been
found, that he purchased safety and the transport of one-half of
his goods at the dear rate of relinquishing the other. And yet,
that has not been the worst of it; for instances have occurred,
when, after the proprietors of a rich convoy have paid this sort
of price for the secure progress of the remainder, the chief him-
self, who had received the purchase for protection, has secretly
dispatched parties of his own people to lie in wait; and, on the
coming up of the unfortunate merchants, they have been at-
tacked, plundered, and murdered. No wonder, then, that the
governments of some of these merchants should take the safe
conduct into their own hands; and literally show the old pos-
sessors of the pass, that their rapacity had cut up the bird with
A WILLAGE BLACKSMITH. 81
golden eggs. Since the Russians have made the roads prac-
ticable for carriages and horses, and planted military stations
at convenient distances, with post-houses and well-armed escorts,
the assistance of these treacherous chiefs and their people is no
longer needful. The government smoothed the way for an un-
impeded establishing of these settlements, by purchasing, with
certain sums of money, from these chiefs, the right of exacting
toll from merchants, and merchandise. It is now collected at
Wlady-Caucasus, (which words mean the key of the Caucasus,) not
only by imposts on all chariots, laden with goods for traffic, but
each individual whose business is mercantile, pays from ten to
twenty-five roubles, as his own passport: all other travellers go
free. - & -
In hopes to expedite the refitting of my unlucky carriage, I
walked to the habitation of the village Vulcan, who had its
repairs under his forge; and so had an opportunity of observing,
a little closer, the lower order of these people, and the style of
their abodes. The man himself was a rough, savage-looking
fellow, black as his business, and with a countenance whose
gloomy ferocity harmonised well with the burning iron under
his hammer. His habitation, like that of most of his neigh-
bours, was built of mud, on a foundation of stones, very low, and
flat-roofed. A sort of shed projected in front, supported by
uprights of wood: under this, was the work-shop ; and at each
extremity of its roof hung the sculls of horses, while other
bones of the same noble animal were scattered about near the
door. At one end of p this rude portico, the blacksmith was
busied with his work; and, having inspected what he was about,
I took the liberty of walking into the interior of the house. I
found a rather large room, excessively dark and dirty, without
WOL, I. M
?
82 DRESS OF THE OSSITINIANS.
furniture. The only light it received was through the door,
and a round hole in the roof, which latter served as a chimney:
a few morsels of wood and dried dung lay smoking there, in the
midst of this wretched apartment. Some earthen vessels, and a
broken bowl or two, were placed round it, but no seats whatever.
In one corner of the room, however, I at last discerned, through
the gloom, an old wooden box, close to which stood a woman ;
but on the instant she was observed, she made her exit into
some still darker recess than the one in which I was standing.
If I might be allowed to form an opinion of the Ossitinian fair
sex from this specimen, and those I had seen in the court-yard
of General Kasibeck’s house, besides two or three I had passed
in my walk, I should say, they have no pretensions to beauty.
Their stature is rather squat; their visages broad-cheeked, flat-
nosed, dark, and otherwise ugly excepting their eyes, and they
are certainly their best feature. Dirt, rags, and splaw naked
feet, might comprise the far from agreeable description, only
there is sometimes a little difference in the fashion of the rags.
Two or three of the women I saw, wore a sort of sheet, not the
cleanest, by way of a veil; but they did not draw it over their
faces. Others were enveloped in a kind of bed-gown, with long
Georgian sleeves. The lower extremities of all of them being
clothed in loose trowsers. The garments of the men, by adding
the badges of a wild species of warfare to their rough materials,
gave something of the picturesque to what, in the women, spoke
only of poverty and wretchedness. The group at the black-
smith's was particularly fitted for the sketch of a painter; in-
deed, it was altogether a curious spectacle. The man himself
was surrounded by ten or twelve by-standers, during his em-
ployment ; and the noise they made is not to be described. All
p
THEIR MANNERS. 83
talking, bawling, and vociferating at once, accompanying the
uproar with gesticulations so violent, (the subject too being the
best way of repairing the fractured iron,) that I expected every
moment they would end the dispute with blows upon them-
selves. A gentleman, who was then with me, (and who, from
his situation as inspector of the roads, is well acquainted with
the character of the natives,) told me this is their universal
mode of conversation. They were now amicably discussing the
subject in debate; but when argument really becomes hostile
contention, then, my informant said, the tumult was beyond
imagination: dreadful threats, drawn daggers, in short, every
species of menace and uproar; but all, as generally, ending in
mere noise and vapour; animosities on both sides being soon
drowned in brandy. Though it is so seldom that blows or
bloodshed terminate these differences, yet a law, or rather a cus-
tom, exists among them, which bears some evidence that dis-
putes did not always end so peaceably. The same law is in use
with the Kabardans, and most other mountain-tribes. Should
any individual fall by the hand of his neighbour, the nearest
relation of the deceased is to take vengeance on the perpetrator
of the murder. Instances, however, have occurred, (and they
are now more frequent,) where the injured party compounds
with the other for a sum of money, or a matrimonial alliance
with a good dower: the feud then terminates; and often, even
closer friendship unites the two families. -
In about two hours, the repairs of my carriage were com-
pleted; but, in the meanwhile, most of my fellow-travellers had
proceeded, leaving me to follow at my own time; which I did, as
speedily as possible, with an escort of twenty-five soldiers:
fifteen were armed with muskets; the purpose of the others was
- M 2
84 SCENERY OF CAUCASUS.
to assist in getting the carriage over the very steep hills, and the
bad road, I was told I should encounter in my way to Kobi.
This post might be rather more than sixteen wersts from the
village of Kasibeck. It was now four o'clock in the afternoon,
with a sky full of portentous clouds; so I had no prospect of
reaching our night's lodging before the darkness and impending
rain must fall about us. However, I had no alternative ; and,
taking leave of my little host at the deceased General's, mounted
my horse, and set forward. The calèche and escort preceded
me. We descended gradually into a wide valley, crossing the
Terek over a wooden bridge, at no great distance from the
village. Here the river totally lost its rapidity and violence,
flowing gently through the vale, which its refreshing waters
covered with the finest verdure. The bordering mountains,
also, at this part, showed luxuriant green, clothing the numerous
ravines which indented their sides, and gave shelter to clusters
of picturesque huts, inhabited by Ossitinians, and usually drawn
around the remains of some old stone tower, which, in ancient
days, had commanded and protected these minor passes from the
inroads of hostile tribes. Enlivening as these little establishments
of domestic peace were in the scene below, what was above menaced
us poor travellers with very different sensations. The heads of
the mountains were totally swallowed up in black clouds, which
were sinking heavily down their sides, and casting so dark a
shadow over every object, that night was anticipated before we
had travelled half our journey. The rain, which had so long
threatened, came on in torrents; and, as may easily be con-
ceived, increased the evils of the severe steeps which lay in our
way, like a succession of furrows in a ploughed field; and up
and down which the caleche was dragged with such often-
KOBI. 85
unavailing toil, by the spent horses, that had it not been for the
unwearied exertions of the soldiers in extricating it from its
numerous difficulties, and yoking themselves to the work, we
must have passed the whole of that inclement night upon the
road. Sleety snow was mingled with the rain, and a cutting
wind, that carried the cold through us, as if pierced with arrows.
Though we had these ascents and descents, of sufficient mag-
nitude to make our beasts feel the difference, yet the absolute
line of the road was gradual ascending ever since we left Wlady-
Caucasus; our next day's journey, therefore, from our anticipated
might's resting-place, it was hoped would bring us to the highest
point of our mountain route, – a circumstance I began most
devoutly to wish, from apprehension that if much longer exposed
to the stress of up-hill work, the bad repair of my calèche would
entirely give way; a disaster of incalculable mischief to me, who
had more essential calls for its use than the mere carriage of
myself. But its trials, for this night, were not yet over. The
darkness increased to such a degree, as did the thick falling snow,
that it became impossible to see a yard before me: at length,
after a tedious contest with various impediments, in the shape
of heights, depths, and the darkness itself, we reached a bridge,
and, for the last time, crossed the Terek, now become very
narrow, and so quiet in its course, I judged all the broken rocks
of the valley must be in our own path. From this spot our
road lay across a plain, intersected with small shallow streams,
but deep in water and snow, both of which completely drenched
myself and people to the skin, so finishing what the fore-part
of the evening had begun. It was not until eleven o’clock that
we reached Kobi, almost chilled to death with wet and cold,
This post, like most of the others, consists of a square fort,
86 - - ROBI.
protected by earthen embankments, pallisadoes, and a shallow
ditch. A few dirty rooms, totally devoid of furniture, are set
apart for the reception of travellers. In one of these, thanks
to the gentlemen of the convoy who had preceded me, I
found an excellent fire; and, after drying and refreshing myself,
I retired to my poor maimed vehicle to sleep ; preferring
its inconvenience to the vermin and damps of the quarters
within. It grew excessively cold during the night ; and on
looking at the thermometer, I found it nine degrees below the
freezing point, according to Reaumur. A severe frost had now
succeeded the milder weather; and, on getting out of the caleche
at day-dawn, I saw nothing on all sides but lofty mountains
covered with snow. The same garb of winter reached to the
very gates of Kobi, not a footstep having yet broken its pale
surface; nor could I discern, by any guiding mark, in which
direction the road lay, that was to commence the greatest diffi-
culties we had yet surmounted, by taking us over the Krista-
waja and Kaschour. -
Not far beyond Kobi, our old companion, the Terek, is
augmented by the waters of the Titri Dskali, and, immediately
on this junction, makes a turn, and flows from the west for about
thirty-five wersts, in a north-east direction. The source of this
magnificent river, of which we now took our leave, — magnifi-
cent in the length of its course, and in the scenery through
which it flows, – takes its rise in the upper valleys of the
southern side of the Kasibeck, a fountain-head worthy the
destination of the stream. -
The many cheerful-looking villages scattered over this part of
the country, which give a show of neighbourhood to Kobi, are
inhabited by Ossi of Mahometan and Pagan tribes. But those
who call themselves Mussulmen, like their brethren who arrogate
/
PROGRESS OF THE CONVOY. 87.
the name of Christians, scarcely differ from their idolatrous
kinsmen, excepting in a few religious usages, or rather forms;
for precept has little to do, as yet, with these barbarians. The
memory of any thing that was taught by the holy personages
established by the Georgian Princess, is now quickly sinking
into oblivion, and the creed of Mahomet hangs by as slender a
thread; for, since the sultans have ceased to pay the sums they
had agreed to give for every child that was circumcised into the
law of the Prophet, these people have gradually neglected his
rites, and fallen back into the idolatrous ways of their ancestors.
It is, however, rather curious to observe, that, whatever general
religion these tribes may profess, they all assume to themselves
(and individually too) a particular protecting divine spirit, or
genius, to whom they in silence address themselves when in
distress of mind or body; calling upon him for assistance, in the
decision of any domestic feud, the prosecution of more general
warfare, a marauding excursion, or even for success in the rob-
bery of a caravan, or a single traveller | So much for the
standard of their religious morality
All being in readiness to move, we started at six o'clock, from
Kobi, on the morning of October the 7th, O. S. Our soldiers
and Cossacks knew well the hidden track, and trod it securely,
though very winding and steep, in an easterly direction, up the
side of the Kristawaja, or Mountain of the Cross. The road was
improved by the frost, which, otherwise, from the late wet wea-
ther, would have been extremely slippery and dangerous. We
moved steadily on ; and the convoy, by degrees, but not without
very laborious exertion, gained the summit of the great barrier.
Both horses and men halted with infinite joy, to look around
them, and, for a few minutes at least, to “rest, and be thankful.”
88. COTTAGE FOR RELIEF OF TRAVELLERS.
Near the extremest height, is the source of a fine and clear
chalybeate, which takes the form of a small lake on one of the
projecting points, south-east of this alpine road ; whence it.
throws itself into the mountain-torrent of the Titri Dskali; the
waters of which, at intervals, take their rapid course under high
arches, worn through the never-thawing snows which countless
winters have drifted into the valleys and ravines. On the side
of one of these mountain-glens, sheltered like an eagle's nest in
the bosom of its native rocks, (and not far from the desperate
path which is called the high road,) we discerned a human habit-
ation; a cottage, much superior to the usual hut of the coun-
try. On enquiry, we were told, it was occupied by an Ossitinian
family, whose business there was to assist and to succour the
winter traveller in his ascent up this terrific mountain. Should
he be benighted, he finds food and a shelter. And when storms
come on, like the hospices of Switzerland, these people most
actively exert themselves to rescue any unfortunate passenger
from the dangers and distress of such a region. The munificence
of the Emperor Alexander provides for this useful establish-
ment. The inhabitants are employed in cultivating a sufficient
tract of ground near their habitation; its produce, with sheep
and goats from the little flock consigned to their charge, and
a large depôt of flour and brandy, are always ready for the pur-
poses of the charity. I rode from our party, with one of my
fellow-travellers, towards the cottage; being curious to see the
good people, who, I was told, most conscientiously fulfilled the
duty enjoined them; and to ascertain from themselves, the par-
ticulars of their services. -
We found the family consisted of an elderly man, two younger
ones, and several boys, an old and a young woman, the mother
STONE-CROSS ON THE KRISTAWAJA. - 89.
and wife of one of the men; but no dogs, which, like those of
Saint Bernard, might assist the discovery of lost travellers
amongst the snows. They informed me, it was only in the
depths of winter, that occasions occurred for the exercise of their
duty; and then, independent of their own personal exertions, it
often happened that a far-wandered, or half-famished traveller
was rescued from impending death, by the simple means of
marks being set up as guides, at certain distances, on long
poles; and, when the drift has nearly hidden their little habit-
ation from view, some distinguishing signal, in the shape of a
cloth banner, or the sculls of horses, hung out from a very high
wooden post, has led many a poor perishing wretch to the
rude but welcome refuge. Yet, I am sorry to add, notwith-
standing all these precautions, whole companies of travellers have
been overwhelmed, and smothered, by sudden snow storms; or,
by losing their road in the darkness of night, have sunk in the
ravine-beds of the spring—torrents, to rise no more. .*
On the very apex of the Kristawaja, and just before the
descent is to take place into the Aragua valley, stands a large
stone cross raised on a pedestal of the same lasting materials. A
proper memorandum to those who reach that point, having
escaped all the accumulated dangers by which they must inevit-
ably be encountered in making this arduous and terrible journey.
But thoughtless must he be, who needs such a monitor to sti-
mulate his most fervent acknowledgments to that Supreme
Being who has brought him in safety through so many perils.
Indeed, it is not possible for the mind to be more powerfully
excited to pour forth its sense of dependence and gratitude, than
where this sacred stone is set up ; such awful impulses present
themselves on every side. The view to the south, spreads before
VOL. I. N
\
90 PROGRESS OF THE CONVOY.
*
us the rich valleys of Thuillete, amongst whose luxuriant ver-
dure wind a thousand streams. Their bright and various meanders
terminate in the bosom of the Aragua, (the Aragus of the
ancients,) which, with its augmented waters, flows majestically
south-east, amid the high chains of the Kumlis Zighe mountains
on the west, and that of the thickly-wooded Gheff and Mogheff
(Gog and Magog) on the eastward. This Arcadian prospect
formed a glowing and most inviting contrast to that of the north,
cold, sterile, and tremendous, where nothing was seen but the
pale and cloud-wrapped summits of Kasibeck, and its rocky sup-
porters; which seemed now to frown upon the happy traveller,
who was about to bid adieu to such unhospitable, though
sublime regions. **
We commenced our descent. The road was by far the steepest
we had yet passed. The wheels of every carriage were locked;
and, besides this precaution, ten or twelve soldiers were obliged
to exert their personal strength, in holding each vehicle back
with ropes, to prevent its pressing upon the horses, who could
scarcely keep themselves from sliding the whole way down, upon
their hinder legs. This difficulty being conquered, another pre-
sented itself of still more formidable magnitude. We were to
re-ascend again, and over a mountain called the Good Gara. It
had no snow on its surface, to betray the unwary foot into clefts
or pitfalls; but the peculiar form of Good Gara rendered its
passage tenfold more horrible than any we had yet beheld. We
stood a few minutes gazing on it, with no small astonishment;
for, on turning our backs on the winter-side of these immense
barrier mountains, I had erroneously imagined, that, on reaching
the holy cross at the top of Kristawaja, we had surmounted all
our alpine difficulties. But we soon found that travellers
. GOOD GAR.A. 91
arriving there from Georgia, have equal occasion to make acknow-
ledgments for safety past, as to beseech still further the Divine
protection. - . º
Nothing can paint the terrific situation of the road which
opened before us at Good Gara. It seemed little better than a
scramble along the perpendicular face of a rock, whence a fall
must be instant destruction. The path itself was not in fact
more than from ten to twelve feet wide, and this wound round
the mountain during the whole circuit, with a precipice at its
side of many hundred fathoms deep. While pursuing this
perilous way, we saw the heads of high hills, villages, and
spreading woods, at a depth so far beneath, the eye could not
dwell on it for a moment without dizziness ensuing. At the
bottom of the green abyss, the Aragua appeared like a fine silver
line. I dared not trust myself to gaze long on a scene, at once
so sublime and so painfully terrible. But leading my horse as
near as I could to that side of the road whence the Good Gara
towered to the sky, and therefore opposite to that which edged
the precipice, I looked with anxiety on my fellow-travellers,
who were clinging to the stony projections, in their advance up.
this horrid escalade. What we dreaded most was, that the
horses which drew the carriages might make a false step, or
get frightened; in either case, nothing could save them from
rolling down the precipice. But my admiration was great as
my surprise, on witnessing the steadiness and total absence of
personal fear, with which the soldiers kept close to my calèche
at scarcely a foot distance from the brink of the abyss, support-
ing the wheels with their hands, lest the loose or large stones
which cumbered the path, might throw it off its balance. A
length of full three English miles, we dragged on in this way,
N 2
92 . . GOOD GARA.
ere we durst lay aside our apprehensions, or feel that free
respiration which our giddy elevation had repressed. But,
perilous as we found this desperate ascent, it was nothing to the
dangers of those who dare it in the winter. At that season,
the whole, buried in snow, appears almost perpendicular with
the side of the mountain. It can never, then, be attempted but
on foot; and, on the arrival of travellers, soldiers or natives pre-
cede them, in order to find the road, and to form a path through
the thick untrodden surface. They ascend in a string; the first
advances with a rope round his waist, which is held, at different
lengths, by his companions as they follow one after another. This
is done to prevent the leader's destruction, should his foot slip in
the uncertain track. But notwithstanding all this care, no winter
passes, without numbers of soldiers, Cossacks, and natives, besides
travellers, falling over this dreadful steep. -
Onenquiring of one of my companions, a residentin the country,
what was done in the case of carriages meeting in this road,
he informed me, such a circumstance had been rendered impos-
sible. When convoys were to pass in either direction, people
were sent forward at a sufficiently early hour, to detain the one
till the passage of the other had left the road open. In going
along it, I could not but wonder at finding this, the most dan-
gerous part in our whole route, evidently the most neglected.
Independent of the extreme narrowness, and therefore, thus
situated, increased peril of the road; at every fifty yards we
might stumble over large or loose stones, some half buried in
the ground, and others just on the edge of the precipice. From
the nature of the face of the mountains, which is a slaty kind of
rock, the path could be widened and smoothed with little diffi-
culty or labour, - *
KASHOUR. . 93
When we arrived on the lower plain of mountains, (if I may
be allowed the expression,) their character became less wild,
taking rounder forms, finely wooded and covered with rich
verdure, presenting but seldom those bold and savage rocks to
which I had lately been so accustomed. At four o'clock (P. M.)
we reached the fort of Kashour, which commands the valley and
road leading towards Tiflis. It is built on part of the ruins of
an ancient Georgian strong-hold; the lofty tower and moulder-
ing walls of which, preserve majestic memorials of its former
consequence. These silent testimonials of empires long sunk in
the dust, may be seen crumbling into the same oblivion, on
almost every point of the surrounding hills. They form inte-
resting objects in this romantic scenery; an apparition in the
wilderness, which tells of long-forgotten greatness. -
At six o'clock in the morning of October 7th (O.S.), we left
Kashour, attended by our usual escort of infantry and Cossacks;
and, after a short descent, crossed the Aragua over a small but
well-built stone bridge. The river at this point, is not more
than from twenty to thirty feet wide, and flows with a gentle
stream. The valley is richly wooded on both sides; its eastern
bank being cleft into numerous glens, which run deep into the
bosom of that part of the mountain, the shelters of an industrious
as well as hardy race of Ossitinians. These little vales are co-
vered every where with villages, whose lowly but cheerful abodes,
are picturesquely opposed, to the dilapidated forms of the ruined
turrets which are usually their neighbours. A rushing torrent,
from the higher lands, commonly divides the village; adding to
its beauty, and much increasing its comfort. The proofs of
considerable cultivation were very observable. They grow mil-
let, barley, onions, and tobacco ; and breed sheep and goats, to
94 MOONLIGHT SCENERY.
such an extent, the nearest heights are often covered with their
flocks. The aspect of the people, whom we saw tending these
herds, showed in their countenances at least, marks of such
milder pursuits. They looked well fed, and peaceable. But
the old insignia of assassination still hung at their girdle; and a
gun was slung across their shoulders. We met others of the
same establishments fording the river to gain the main road,
whose garbs were yet more of the ancient warlike costume.
They bore, besides the arms just mentioned, swords, somewhat
curved ; and close to the hilt of each was fastened a small round
shield, covered with leather, and studded curiously with nails.
In dimensions, it is less than the rondel of the days of our Eli-
zabeth, and exactly resembles that which the English bowmen
wore in the time of Henry the Fifth. These mountaineers, I
am told, are very expert in its management when using the dag-
ger. They are tribes of the Mahometan and Pagan Ossi.
2. | r
%ft||| | 'N
ºft||| N
sºft §
4% w , ,
We followed the course of the Aragua, the whole day; halting
for a short time at another fortified post called Passanour, where
we changed our horses and escort.


ANNANOUR. . . 95
Between this and the next resting place, our travelling became
slower; being retarded by intervening ascents and descents of
several minor hills, and the rockiness of the road. The great
valley, however, which was still our path, retained its pastoral
character, as long as we followed the windings of the river.
While we were leisurely proceeding, the evening closed upon us;
but we did not regret the day. A beautiful moon, in a sky
clearer than any that is seen in Europe at the same hour, shed
its rays on every object. The effects on the vale, mountains,
and river, are not to be imagined; they were so grand, so tran-
quil, reposing in so soft a light. With the advance of night,
succeeded a severe, but brilliant frost; and the romantic scenery,
with which we were surrounded, only became more animated
by the change. Numerous fires appeared at various distances,
under the shelter of trees, or beneath overhanging masses of
rock. Around these, were seen groups of Cossacks, mingled
with Georgians and Mountaineers, whose rude, athletic figures,
marked countenances, and Savage military garbs, formed pictures
of the wildest character. * - ‘. .
From the fresh air, interesting objects, and free movement
of such a scene, did we pass, on our arrival at Annanour, at
once into damp, darkness, and confinement. This is the place,
appointed for travellers who enter Georgia by the Caucasus, to
perform a quarantine of four days, before they are permitted to
pursue their journey. The dirt and wretchedness of the hovels
which opened to receive us, gave sad warning of our night's lodg-
ing. No better floor than — I wish I could say, the bare ground,
damp and noisome ; windows, with neither glass nor shutters;
and the nooks, intended for fire-places, in so ruinous a state, that
no hope could be entertained of putting them to their use. One
specimen may be enough, of the comforts prepared for the un-
96 - QUARANTINE OF ANNANOUR.
fortunate travellers, who were to find rest in the chamber myself
and three companions were turned into. The floor was in many
places overgrown with beds of mushrooms In vain we requested
a more suitable spot for that night's sleep, and the probation of
four days. There was no person of authority on the spot, to
give any such order. The commandant of the fort lived in the
town of Annanour, nearly two miles off; and, as it was too late
to send to him, we were obliged to make the best of our miser-
able quarters; stopping up the gaping windows (for the cold
without was now extreme); lighting a fire in the mouldering
chimney, and ridding the floor of its garden appearance, by the
removal of the mushrooms, and other weedy nuisances in their
neighbourhood. Our servants were even worse off than ourselves;
having no hole whatever to put their heads in, they bivouacked
for the night under the walls of our dungeon.
This, certainly, was a most woeful reception for persons com-
pelled to halt, after a weary journey, under the supposition of
having the plague ; and much more dismal for those who came
there in perfect health. In the first case, the exposures and
misery of the place, would soon put an end to the troubles with
the life of the poor infected wretch : while he who enters well,
can hardly escape taking thence with him a severe cold at least ;
but more likely, the seeds of disorders, to remind him for many
months of the sort of “care taken of travellers in the quarantine
of Annanour !”
Next morning I dispatched a soldier betimes to the com-
manding officer, also to the medical professor in the town,
earnestly requesting better accommodation for myself and com-
panions. Both these persons of authority soon made their ap-
pearance; and they united in assuring me, that I was already in
the best apartment of the whole range. And, by way of rec Dn-
ANNANOUR, 97.
ciling me the more readily with my good fortune, they added,
that several general officers had recently performed quarantine
in the same; and, being so pre-eminently comfortable, it was
always reserved for travellers of rank. My ideas of comfort
being something different, I desired to have the windows
stopped up ; and that we might have something more commo-
dious than the bare earth to sit on, lie on, and eat off. An old.
rotten bedstead had been visible in one corner of the room, but
it was at the peril of any one who should have attempted to put
it to any of its ancient uses. In a short time, paper was pasted
over the windows, and a few of the articles sent, of which we
stood in so much need. t -
The place of quarantine consists of a collection of low build-
ings, on a quadrangular piece of ground, which is pallisadoed.
It has two entrances, strongly guarded: that leading to the
town is the most vigilantly attended, no one under probation
being suffered to pass that barrier; but, in the opposite direc-
tion we might issue forth and wander about at will over the open
country. Notwithstanding the reformation in our apartment, I
resumed my now common practice of passing the night in my
carriage. Though a colder station than any where I might com-
mand a fire, it was at least clean and dry. But during my first
attempt at. sleeping there at Annanour, I was disturbed the
whole night by the most hideous yellings and yelpings. Not
being able to guess their cause, I enquired in the morning, and
found they proceeded from vast droves of wolves and jackalls,
which infest the circumjacent woods ; and often, when pressed
by hunger, break into the very square of the establishment.
No pleasant visitors to its poor houseless inmates, who, like our
servants, might then be lying defenceless on the open ground.
VOL. I. O
98 ANNANOUR.
The town of Annanour stands at the foot of one of the moun-
tains of the south-western branch of Kumlis Zighe, which range
forms the right bank of the Aragua. It is a place of antiquity,
and once was considerable for its population and military
strength. It is now reduced to a few deplorable-looking huts,
some of which are shops; and, at first view, this circumstance
gave a strange, inconsistent show of animation to so miserable a
remnant of departed life. But, on nearer communication, I
found the inhabitants to be more civilised, to have more social
intercourse amongst themselves, than in any place I had seen
since I entered Asia; and, what is the best proof, here alone I
found the people of a mountain-settlement who excluded rapine
and plunder from their means of subsistence. Annanour still
possesses the remains of a noble church, which stands within the
walls of a castle, whose once proud towers are sinking as quickly
to decay. The architectural decorations on the sacred structure,
must have been a work of great skill and labour; crosses, and
stone-work, carved in the most ingenious manner, ornamenting
the whole exterior of the building. On each side of the semi-
circular door-way, which leads, to the interior, are various in-
scriptions, in the ancient Georgian character; this having been,
in those times, a favourite strong-hold or sanctuary for Georgia. -
Whenever Tiflis was threatened with an attack from Persia, or
the Turk, Annanour was commonly the spot, as most secure,
whither the females of the reigning family were sent; and with
them the most valuable of the sovereign's property. Amongst
the latter, at one time the renowned relic of the Georgians, the
Cross of St. Nunia was deposited. This highly-prized relic
was formed, of vine-branches, bound together by the long hair
of the fair saint. At present it reposes in the great church of
Tiflis.
DUSCHETT. 99.
On the third evening after our arrival at the quarantine, our
servants and baggage were fumigated, preparatory to our release
the ensuing day. This ordeal passed, we received certificates of
health; and, having now liberty, I paid my visit to the town and
the fortress. At six o'clock on the morning of October the 11th
(O. S. 1817,) we re-commenced our march. We ascended the
mountain to the southward of Annanour, crossing its woody
summit almost directly over the town. About midway of our
day's journey, we had a full view of Duschett, our next halting-
place; a distance of nearly eleven wersts from our last. It is
situated at the bottom of the hill we were then descending, in
an extensive valley, rich with cultivation and villages, and
seeming to promise a very different entertainment from that of
Annanour. A great many of the natives were occupied in
ploughing; but the machine they used was exceedingly heavy,
its share very sparingly clothed with iron, and so inconveniently
long, that it made a furrow full two feet in width, and as deep
as any hedge-ditch in England. The soil was rich, black, and
weighty; so much so, that fourteen oxen were yoked in pairs, to
drag the plough through its furrows. Buffaloes are very nume-
rous here; and are often used for these agricultural labours, as
well as for business on the road, where they sometimes carry
burthens on their backs; and at others, draw a clumsy sort of cart,
with wheels of a solid piece of wood, like those of Portugal.
Droves of these animals were grazing near the road, some of
them of an enormous size, much larger than the largest of the
English cattle I ever saw. Their cry is peculiar, for I cannot
call it either lowing or bellowing: it is long and monotonous,
resembling the hum of an insect; but as much louder, as the
magnitude of the one animal exceeds that of the other. The
comparison may seem a strange one, but it is true.
. O 2
100 DUSCHETT.
The peasants were preparing to sow wheat and barley, which,
with millet, are the only sorts of grain they cultivate with dili-
gence. From the latter, two liquors are extracted; one, an
ardent spirit; the other, a milder drink, extremely sour and dis-
agreeable. , Wines are not in use in this part of Georgia; neither
do we see a single vine for the benefit of its grapes as a food.
By the degree in which we draw nearer to an admired object,
we often find that it gradually loses the beauties which attracted
at a distance. Thus a green vale, when viewed from a height,
seems luxuriant in cultivation; but when come to the place
itself, we may see a morass instead of a field. In like manner,
as we approached Duschett, the appearance of the general culture
we had hailed from the brow of the mountain, dispersed away
into limited spots; and we still found the traces of savage deso-
lation, the footsteps of a lagging, because still insecure, industry.
Duschett itself, is a pretty extensive town; with the remains
of a fortress and a palace, which, in times past, were the summer-
residence of the kings (or Tzars) of Georgia; and, I believe, a
particular favourite with the last, the celebrated Heraclius: for
his son could scarcely be said to have reigned. Being curious to
have an idea of an Asiatic palace, I requested the officer com-
manding at this post, to be kind enough to accompany me to
see it and the fortress. I found a very large square, inclosed by
high stone walls, with strong towers at the angles. On one side
of the interior of this square, near the wall, stands the royal
edifice; a low, unpretending-looking building, consisting of a
single story, which is divided into small rooms, without other
ornament than some rough carved work, in the shape of lozenges,
on the timbers of the ceiling. Neither gilding nor paint, of any
kind, ever seems to have touched its plain stuccoed walls. A
veranda surrounds the whole; and its flat roof formed a terrace,
PROVINCE OF KARTELANIA. ^ 101
whence only the tops of the hills might be seen. A circum-
scribed prospect, for a summer-palace. But the embattled sides
of the fortress, which were its protection, would allow no ampler.
In the centre of the square stands a small wooden church, almost
falling to the ground. It is now in contemplation to turn the
palace into quarters for officers in garrison; and to occupy the
square with barracks and stables, for a new battalion destined
to this important line of country. •.
This part of Georgia is now called the province of Kartelania,
and was the ancient Iberia. Ptolemy describes it as bordered,
on the north, by the Sarmatian mountains; to the south, by a
part of Armenia; to the east, by Albania; and to the west, by
Colchis, the present Immeretia. He mentions many of its towns
and villages. But Strabo, who travelled in these countries,
speaks yet more decidedly of this being a flourishing, and even
luxurious state. A dreary and comfortless contrast it now
exhibits A once independent kingdom, reduced to the abject
situation of a province; and not immediately to the sovereign
power itself, which might dispense consequence, with near
union; but through the double vassalage of a medium, being an
appendage to another subject province, that of Georgia. Wars,
and invasions from rival neighbours, gradually diminished the
brave population of this little kingdom; but their most mortal
blow, was given by the hands of those amongst them who pos-
sessed ambition, without the manliness to maintain it themselves.
Like other powers, who, unwittingly, have committed the same
sort of national suicide, themselves taught the Lesghees, (the
people who were to be their destruction,) the passes of their
country. During times of civil discords, the mutual jealousies
of the Iberian chiefs subsidised bands of these warlike barbarians
to fight their battles. The way once found, these conquering
102 ARTISKALL.
allies trod it at pleasure; and, trampling on the great lords, their
former pay-masters, soon reduced a people who had such ineffi-
cient leaders. From that time, the country sunk lower and
lower, under the weight of oppression; till the peasantry, entirely
giving themselves up to a kind of idle despair, the present pos-
sessors of the province found them in that mortal state of the
human mind, from which it will require years of European
knowledge, example, and patient energy, to rouse them into new
life, social and political. • . -
On quitting Duschett, the valley opens with a considerable
expanse for a few wersts, crossing several tolerably cultivated low
hills. A lake lies to the westward of the road, which, I was
informed, contains a variety of good fish : one species is very
large, shaped like a salmon, but when dressed it is not the same
in colour, being white instead of yellow. Leaving the direction
of this fine body of water, after an hour or two's march, we re-
gained the banks of the Aragua, along which we pursued our way
for the remainder of our day's journey. A valley on the oppo-
site shore was pointed out to me as the only avenue still prac-
ticable, by which the Lesghees can repeat their inroads into the
country. A Russian guard, consisting of a few infantry and
Cossacks, keeps station there; and it is sufficient for the ordinary
defence of the pass, the old invaders not attempting, now,
descents of any power. They are seldom seen but in marauding
parties, small enough to escape pursuit, as easily as they elude
vigilance in making these incursions. It is only in time of war,
when the Russian soldiers may be drawn to more distant duty,
that they come down in hundreds, spreading rapine and misery
in every direction. - -
Towards dusk, we reached a post called Artiskall, where we
changed horses; and leaving our chasseurs, took an escort of
{*
MSKETT. 103
Cossacks only, having but a short distance to go before we should
attain our proposed sojourn for the night. We had not pro-
ceeded more than a werst or two, ere it became quite dark; yet,
the eye being used to it, I could distinguish that the increasing
gloom, which deepened on us as we continued to advance, was
occasioned by the closing in of the valley. At last its mountain
walls drew so near each other, as totally to exclude all trace
of the road; and we had nothing to guide us from stepping
into the river, that was combating the rocks at our side, but the
warning noise of its course; and, now and then, a sparkle of
light on the water, shot from moon or stars through SOIſle
friendly chasm in the stony canopy above us.
At nine o'clock we arrived at Mskett, once the capital of
Georgia, now a wretched village. Such is the too probable
consequence of a frequent change of masters; the ravages of
war, the neglect of caprice, the miseries of delegated authority,
of oppression and poverty. Nothing more resembles the turn
of fortune in the destiny of such a place, once the residence
of kings, now the abode of penury and wretchedness, than
the fate of many a proud and frail fair one. One day, we hear
of her lying in the bosom of princes, on a couch of luxury and
indulgence; and ere long, perhaps, we shall be told, that she
has perished on some bed of straw, without a human being to
give her a drop of water, or a hand to close her eyes.
Having arrived at the forlorn remnant of the great city of
Mskett, I took up my quarters amidst the ruins of its castle,
where I was lodged for the night, in the cell of a priest, or proto-
pope, belonging to the old cathedral, still existing within the
walls of the fortress. We were only a short day's journey from
Tiflis ; and the venerable incumbent of my cell being as kindly
hospitable as his means would allow, I determined to delay my
- §
104 MSKETT.
morning's march a few hours, that I might have time to view
the many interesting objects of the place, and the magnificent
country by which they are surrounded. . * . ;
Long before Tiflis, the present capital of Georgia, had a stone
laid of its foundations, or that it could have been even in contem-
plation to disturb the cattle which pastured on its ground, to
fix the site of a new city, Mskett had been a place of im-
portance, and of great antiquity. It was the residence of the
sovereigns of the country, of large extent, and numerous popu-
lation; and many marks of its ancient strength and spaciousness
may still be found along the angular piece of land which was
its foundation. The situation was commanding for a royal
capital, being between the rivers Aragua and Kur (the Aragus and
Cyrus of the classic ages), and immediately at their point of
junction; the former river bounding the province of Kartelania
(the ancient Iberia) to the south-east; and the latter stream,
from the commencement of its course, forming a barrier to
Armenia. - . - - -
Pliny, while writing of Iberia, observes that its chief city was
called Harmastis, and that it was situated near the river Neoris.
Ptolemy mentions the same place, under the name of Artanissa;
and then adds, that there is another town called Mestletta, not
far from the Kur. We have no difficulty in recognising Mskett
in Mestletta; and in Harmastis, or Artanissa, too, the topo-
graphy of both being such as to show them to be one city;
and the ruin on which I was quartered had originally been the
strong-hold of that ancient capital. In the days of its greatness,
this strong-hold inclosed the palace of the kings, as well as the
metropolitan church. What remains of the former, are little
more than bare and mouldering walls, excepting one small
gloomy chamber, near the ground, in which a stone couch,
MSKETT. 105
and an altar of the same rough materials, still show memorials
of the pious Nunia, who there performed her vigils. In re-
verence of her memory, this melancholy cell bears the name
of Saint Nunia's Chapel.
The cathedral, or patriarchal church, stands in the heart of
the fortress. It is a large and stately building, with a turreted
spire, faced with smooth stone. The rest of the exterior
workmanship is of the same character as that of the church at
Annanour, intricate and full of labour; but the interior would
be very plain, were it not for the ill-painted legends of saints
on the walls: and they are the less to be tolerated, since their
gaudy colours disturb the fine shadowy solemnity of the grey
tombs which cover the remains of departed patriarchs and
deceased tars. Amongst the latter, we were shown the place
where the great and unfortunate Heraclius, the last king of
Georgia reposes, with his sons, from all the troubles of his
reign; — he sleeps at rest, unconscious that the foot of a foreign
sentinel treads and retreads the earth near his grave!
The good father who accompanied me mentioned, as other
objects usually interesting to travellers, several holy relics.
Those of the greatest note he named, were the vest of our
Saviour, and part of the mantle of Elias. The first, for many
years back, had been consigned to the safe-keeping of a finely-
wrought shrine, within the precincts of the high altar; and the
latter, with other treasures of similar character, could not be
shown to me, the archimandrite being absent, to whose charge
the relics were committed. -
On a desolate tract of ground, nearly half a mile northward
of the walls of the fortress, stands another church, surrounded,
not with tombs, but the melancholy silence of innumerable
VOL. I. P
106 MSKETT.
ruins, the most dismal monuments of the dead. In fact, little
else than the mouldering vestiges that this once was a city, are
to be seen for several wersts around. On the eastern side of
the river, directly opposite to the town, rises a pointed and
rocky hill, covered at the top with very extensive ruins ; – part
seem the remains of a church, and the rest, from the nature of
the broken walls and towers, a place of military strength. This
pyramidal hill, with its mural crown, must have had a very
majestic aspect, in the days of its power; at present, it is noble
even in ruins. The fortress on its height appears to have been
in regular communication with the town : we may distinctly
mark the track, in the remains of walled posts, which run down
the slope to the very margin of the river, terminating just at the
spot where it is in general fordable. The western bank is rather
high, and gave a good station for a square tower which guarded º
the pass to the water. At a little distance, to the north, is seen
a bold, projecting rock, perpendicular towards the river, which
washes its foot. Its summit is spread with masses of ruin,
fallen and erect; but every where evincing the grandeur of the
fabric which had once commanded from its brow. When that
fabric stood in its original, unimpaired form, it must have been
a castle of much greater magnitude than any of the others;
and, by its position, commanded not only its own immediate
road, but the whole valley towards the Caucasus, and every
approach from the mountains bordering, in that direction, on the
Aragua. The situation is the best for a military post in that
part of the country; and, from the peculiar method in which
parts of the remaining structure are put together, I am led to
suppose, that if it were first founded by Asiatic princes, it was
enlarged and strengthened by their Roman conquerors. The
* \
ANCIENT HISTORY OF MSKETT. 107
square tower, which I have mentioned a little above, as guarding
the pass to the river, bears marks of the same military archi-
tects; and the fragments of an old wall, which has evidently
run along the whole face of the northern bank of the Kur,
resemble, in every part, the admirable workmanship, in that way,
of the Roman soldier. This wall ceases at a ruined stone
bridge which crosses the Kur, and is protected by two high
quadrangular towers that stand on each bank of the river. On
the other side of the bridge the wall re-commences, with addi-
tional marks of fortification wherever points appear vulnerable,
and takes its course all the way up, till it joins the great northern
castle, on the bold projecting rock I have described before.
Plutarch's account of Roman transactions, in this part of the
world, corroborates my view of the subject; and it is to such
evidence alone that we can refer as guides through the vestiges
of past ages, scattered over these, now, half-barbarian wastes.
He mentions, that after the subjugation of Tigranes, King of
Armenia, Pompey, eager to follow his fortune, left Afranius
with an adequate force, in charge of the conquered country,
and set forth himself in pursuit of Mithridates. His line of
march lay, of necessity, through the countries bordering on the
Caucasus. The Albanians, at first, granted him a free passage;
and calculating on the performance of their promise, he pro-
ceeded confidently towards their frontier. But he had scarcely
cleared the mountain defiles which lead to the western shore of
the Kur, when these hardy people, either repenting their
acquiescence, or having granted it merely to throw the Roman
general off his guard, appeared suddenly on the opposite bank
of the river, advancing towards him with every show of deter-
mined hostility. It was then the month of December, and the
p 2
108 ANCIENT HISTORY OF MSKETT.
Roman troops celebrating the Saturnalia. But their general,
who no sooner perceived his expected friends, than he saw them
to be enemies, gave orders to allow the barbarians to pass the
river, and then prepared his men to receive them as their
broken faith deserved. The Albanians crossed in a body of
forty thousand men, – so vast a multitude had they collected,
to oppose their formidable foe; but it was in vain : the dis-
cipline of the Roman band of veterans was more than a match
for the population of the whole country; and, utterly discom-
fited in the battle which ensued, the Albanians yielded absolute
submission. The consequence was, Pompey placed his own
keys in the locks of the country; and proceeded, without
further opposition, towards Iberia. According to the writers of
the period I refer to, Albania was then bounded to the south by
the Cyrus (or Kur), from the shores of the Caspian, to the
junction of the river with the Aragua. From the nature of
Pompey's views in the country, and the difficult and dangerous
passage of the Caucasus between Armenia and his next great
object, — difficult from their unexplored intricacies, and danger-
ous from the inevitable harassing of the warlike natives, who had
never known subjection, — though these mountains were his
direct path, yet the more circuitous one of the eastern bank of
the Kur, being altogether the most eligible, from its fewer natural
obstacles, and being in part through the country of the
Albanians, who had promised him a free passage, it appears
that Pompey could not but take this line of march, and, accord-
ingly, we have found his traces all along the path. The Kur is
fordable in many places, particularly above Tiflis; and between
that city and Mskett lies an extensive plain, the spot, most
probably, where the Iberians made a desperate stand against the
MSKETT. 109
formidable invader, who had already laid Albania at his feet.
Indeed, that plain is the only space of ground in that district
sufficiently extensive to have allowed two such opposing armies
room to act; but the Roman's fortune still held the ascendant,
and there the richest parts of Iberia too, became the spoil of
the victor. Having now the liberties of this brave people in his
hands, Pompey took up his winter-quarters in a position to
command a ready communication with his posts in both his
new conquests, Albania and Iberia; and I have little doubt that
we have found those winter-quarters at Mskett. Besides its
proximity to the objects just mentioned, it lay in the midst of
a cultivated country, abundant in supplies for his troops, and
at a point, whence he could issue at will, to pursue his plans
against Mithridates, on the opening of the following spring.
Mskett is, in fact, a fortress by nature: we have only to look
on it, to recognise these features ; the nearly insular situation
of its site, magnificently moated by the Kur and the Aragua,
the natural towers and strong-holds of its cliffs and beetling
rocks, and the position in which it stands, capable of blocking
up the way at once, to the passes which lead to two kingdoms.
The former sovereigns of Iberia had been aware of these advan-
tages; and, when they seized the station for themselves, added
those bulwarks of stone, which, now in ruins, cover the heights,
but which, we also find to have been subsequently strengthened
by the conquerors of Asia from Europe. Similar vestiges of
occupation by Greeks and Romans, mingling with the old
eastern fortifications erected by the native people, may be
traced, not only in these parts, but in every pass of the moun-
tains, to the inmost recesses of the Caucasus.
The styles of architecture, civil or military, of any particular
110 DEPARTURE FROM MSKETT.
people, are silent but decisive evidences of where those people
have been. But, more than this, with regard to the spot of
my present argument, Dr. Reniggs, mentions, that during his
stay in Georgia, he was told, that in the northern castle at
Mskett a stone had been found, bearing the Greek inscription,
[AKPOXTOIIOAIX.] Acrostopolis. He adds, that all the Geor-
gian historians, as well as other learned writers, speak of Mskett
as the most ancient city of the kingdom; testifying that it was
in a very flourishing state, even so far back as when these regions
first embraced Christianity; and before that, we find it may
have been a garrison of importance. According to D'Anville, -
the city of Harmozica (the Harmastis of Pliny, and the Arta-
missa of Ptolemy) was situated on the Kur, just at its junction
with the Aragua; while the town of Teumara occupied the banks
of the latter river, at no great distance from Harmozica.
About eleven o'clock on the morning of October the 12th,
(O.S.), we left this interesting old capital; and, having pro-
ceeded along the northern bank of the Kur, for about a werst,
crossed the river at the bridge I described before, as being
situated between the two lofty Roman towers. Nothing of the
ancient structure of this bridge remains, excepting the stone-
work from which sprung the arches. The arches gone, the
massy pillars which supported them, are now connected by a
sort of wood platform, over which travellers pass, and under
which the river rolls in a dark and turbulent stream. On
gaining its southern bank, we pursued our way in a parallel
direction with the road we had just quitted, till reaching the
foot of the hills where the confluence of the two rivers takes
place, and then our course ran with the united stream due
south. But it was a curious and a fine spectacle, to behold
THE RIVER, KUR. 111
these two celebrated floods at the moment of junction. The
clear and green waters of the Aragua formed a brilliant contrast
to the heavy and sombre wave of the Kur, as they dashed into
its bosom. But the union was instantaneous. And the mightier
flood of Cyrus rolled onward with its tributary stream unaltered
in colour, with the same proud solemnity of course. -
The source of this famous river has been supposed, in almost
as many different places as there have been writers to discuss
the question. Strabo, will have it to rise in Armenia; Pliny, in
the Tartaric Scythian mountains; and Ptolemy, in Colchis, the
modern Immeretia. Chardin would find its spring amongst the
Caucasus; and subsequent observations have proved him so far
right, that its source has been traced to the mountains that
bound the province of Akiska westward, and which are a rami-
fication of the Caucasus, though so distant from the great parent
stem. From the recesses of this Akiskan branch, issue several
small rivulets, which, uniting into one channel at some little
distance from Agalzhicke, takes the name of Kur; and, flowing
thence through part of the Turkish dominions, gradually
augments its stream by the reception of minor rivers in its
course. Although its windings are various, its main direction is
generally to the eastward, passing through deep valleys, and one
or two extensive plains, in its way to the town of Mskett.
Having paid its tribute to those venerable towers, the progress of
a few wersts brings it to other ruins; to the successor of the
royal dignities, which once gave distinction to those towers; to
what was the new capital of Georgia. Its once lofty battlements,
now crumbling to decay, mix their superb fragments with the
less ostentatious works of modern military art; and Tiflis, though
no longer the magnificent residence of Asiatic princes, is yet the
112 THE RIVER KUR.
capital of a government; and possesses a fortress, of more
strength, than imposing appearance. From this point, the Kur
takes a south-eastern direction, fertilizing a country of as much
beauty as grandeur. The most considerable rivers which pour
themselves into its channel, during this course, are, the Alazan,
from the north-east; and the Aras, (or Araxes,) from the south,
which discharges itself into the Kur at about seventy miles dis-
tance from the mouth of that river. When this junction has
taken place, the breadth and the depth of the Kur are so en-
creased, it immediately becomes navigable for much larger boats
than any which could have been attempted higher up. At fifty
miles lower down, it divides itself into two noble branches; and
so flows onward, through the province of Maghan, to the north-
west coast of the Caspian; whence, by these double channels, it
unites its waters with the sea.
Ancient writers would lead us to suppose, that in former
times this celebrated river was navigable to a much higher
reach, than it is at present. We can draw no other inference,
from the accounts given by some of them, of the methods in
use to convey goods from India, to the Black Sea. Pliny parti-
cularly describes the route:– “Having arrived at Bactra,” (mo-
dern, Balk,) he observes, “ the merchandise then descends the
Icarus (Jehon river) as far as the Oxus; and thence are carried
down to the Caspian. They then cross that sea, to the mouth
of the Cyrus (the Kur), where they ascend that river; and, on
going on shore, are transported by land for five days, to the
banks of the Phasis (Rion), where they once more embark, and .
are conveyed down to the Euxine.” Pliny, lib. vi. c. 4.
Ancient authors, all bearing the same testimony, that such
was the great road by which Europe received the luxuries of the
*
RIVERs KUR AND RION. 113
East, we cannot but admit the fact; but, at the same time, ocular
demonstration assures us that both rivers, the Kur and the
Rion, must have sunk very low in their beds since so important
a traffic, as that described, could be carried up their streams to
such a height as would make the land-carriage across from one
to the other, only a journey of five days. Mr. Gibbon, in his
work on the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, and who
generally wrote from collected evidence, mentions, that the Kuris
navigable as high as Sarapona; a distance of one hundred miles
from its mouth, forty only of which would admit large vessels.
From my own observations, and information, on the spot, I
should say, that the Kur will admit very small craft only, as far
up as to the point of its junction with the Alazan ; and not until
it is augmented by the Aras do vessels of burthen find water.
With regard to the Rion, it is not navigable even so high as
Cotatis. Hence, from the present comparatively shallow state
of these two rivers, instead of goods being landed, as of old time,
at a point in the Kur, whence they might arrive, after a journey
of only five days, at an answering navigable point on the Rion;
they would, in our times, be put on shore so low in the line of -
the river, as to constrain them to traverse a distance of sixteen
days travelling, over a difficult and dangerous mountain-country,
before they could re-embark at the necessary depth of water in
the Rion. That this was not always the case, we may gather
another argument, from the accounts we have of Seleucus Nica-
tor's project for connecting the Euxine and Caspian seas by a
canal; which, being only to be effected by the union of the two
rivers in question, the idea could not have been conceived at all,
unless those rivers then possessed more extensive navigable
channels than they do at present.
º WOL. I. Q
114 TIFLIS,
But, to return to our day's march.
As we followed the further progress of the Kur, the mountains
gradually lost both their rocks and forest-scenery, presenting
immense heights covered with beautiful verdure. The course of
three or four wersts brought us to a fine level expanse of country,
in high cultivation, and traversed by a thousand sparkling rivu-
lets from the hills on the western side of the plain. The river
also added its waters to the refreshing beauties of the view.
Our eyes turned, with a sense of repose, from the rugged wilds
they had so long been contemplating, to the soft green which
covered these noble hills; but ere we had pursued our way, for
quite ten wersts, over the luxuriant plain they bordered, we
perceived the opening of a narrow, rocky valley. The river
entered it, between two bold ranges of the mountains; and, at
the extremity of the defile, we saw the capital of Georgia, the
many towers of Tiflis, rising on the, then, precipitous and again
sublime banks of the Kur. But the effect produced here, is of
a deeper tinge. The town itself, stands at the foot of a line of
dark and barren hills, whose high and caverned sides gloomily
overshadow it. Every house, every building within its walls,
seems to share the dismal hue of the surrounding heights ; for a
deep blackness, rests on all. The hoary battlements above, and
the still majestic towers of the ancient citadel; the spires of
Christian churches, and other marks of European residents;
even their testimonies of past grandeur, and present conse-
quence; and, what is more, present christian brotherhood; could
not, for some time, erase the horrible dungeon-impression of
Asiatic dirt and barbarism, received at first view of the town.
On crossing a small stone bridge, we reached the guard-house of
a quarantine, about three wersts from Tiflis; but, on delivering
TIFLIS. t 115
our papers of health, we were allowed to proceed, without further
detention, towards the gates of the city. Having entered them,
(with the feeling of one going into the cave of Trophonius,) I
took up my quarters at the house of Khoja Aratoon, an Arme-
nian, whose father had served, as treasurer, several of our envoys
and ambassadors, when resident at the court of Persia. I was
well pleased to hear the first information communicated to me
by my host, that the Governor of Georgia, General Yarmolloff,
was returned to Tiflis, from his embassy to the Persian monarch;
and, accordingly, next morning, I presented myself to His Ex-
cellency, and delivered my letters. His reception was in no
respect like the gloom of his capital, and the sunshine within,
soon spread its influence without doors. .
Tiflis is distant from St. Petersburgh 2627 wersts, in 42° 45'
N. lat., and 62°40;' E. long, according to Russian calculation,
Chardin has placed it in lat. 43° and long, 64". But Captain Mon-
teith, of the Madras engineers, from an observation, found its
latitude to be 41° 43'. The city has no claim to an antiquity
beyond the lapse of a few centuries; having been founded in
the year 1063, by the Tzar Liewvang, who wished to derive
personal benefit from certain warm springs in its neighbourhood.
Till that period, it could boast no habitation in the form of a
house; unless, perhaps, a few mud-hovels for the convenience
of the occupiers of a small fortress, which stood on an adjacent
height, and protected the valley. The remains of this ancient
bulwark are still to be seen on a hill to the south of the town,
at some distance from the station of the more modern citadel,
of Turkish origin. The position of the old work of the native
Tzars, completely commanded the road along the western bank
of the Kur; and its dark and frowning towers, lonely as they
Q 2
116 TIFLIS.
are, still seem to threaten the passenger below. A more inti-
mate acquaintance with the town, gradually effaced the impres-
sion of the general dreariness of its aspect; but the effect of the
circumjacent scenery always remained the same ; a vast prison,
if I may so express myself, of high and beetling rocks broken
into deep clefts, black and bare, and projecting in a thousand
rugged and savage forms And on these bulwarks of nature,
apparently sufficiently incarcerating of themselves, we see every
where the time-destroyed additions of man: towers and battle-
ments, lying in huge grey masses of ruin on every pointed steep;
while old mouldering walls, track the declivities till their bases
touch the town, or end in the bed of the Kur. From the
situation of the town, at the bottom of a ravine like this, it can-
not be supposed a very desirable abode for persons used to freer
space, and wider prospect. Hence the Governor-general has
chosen his place of residence at a short distance from the body
of the city; on the gentle slope of a hill, fronting the river,
and a fine view of the Caucasian mountains. When the house
is finished, for it is now undergoing a repair, it will be distin-
guished by a large portico, and exterior ornamental figures
sculptured in stone. -
This building, with the arsenal, hospital, churches, and a few
villas in the neighbourhood, are the only erections, in or near
the place, that remind one at all of Europe. The rest is purely
Asiatic ; but very different from the idea, commonly received in
Europe, of that term, -gay minarets, painted domes, and gilded
trellice-work. Here was a collection of low, flat-roofed dwel-
lings, built of dun brick, mingled with stones and mud; the
doors and windows exceedingly small; the latter covered with
paper, glass being in little use from its scarcity and dearness:
TIFLIS. - º I 17. -
indeed, the natives have been so accustomed to live in a kind of
half-darkness, from the overshadowing of their mountain, and
the closeness of their abodes, that light seems no way necessary
to their vocations. As a proof, they hardly ever apply to the
effects of a little oil on the opacity of the paper. The streets
are, without exception, narrow ; and, from the primitive state of
the pathways, intolerably filthy in wet weather, and dusty in
dry. However, His Excellency, the Governor, is endeavouring
to obviate this inconvenience, by ordering them to be paved;
which good work is already begun. He is also establishing
other improvements, by directing all ruinous houses to be either
repaired, or entirely pulled down, to make way for the erection
of new ones, according to handsome and more salubrious plans.
Amongst other works of this nature, carried on during his late
absence in Persia, are alterations in the bazar, or great market-
place for merchants. This has been totally roofed in, but with
open circles left in the rafters, for the admission of air and light.
Long colonnades unite it to the square of the city-guard; which
place is also lined with shops, covered from the weather with a
fine range of pillared arcades; and the natives themselves, thus
sheltered in their own persons, and in that of their merchandise,
from the injurious effects of rain or scorching heat, begin, though
languidly, to acknowledge that these changes are improve-
ments. The bazar is a narrow street, of a very long and
winding extent. On each side of it are lines of shops of every
description, such as fruiterers, grocers, barbers, cooks, mercers,
sadlers, armourers, &c. &c. all open, whose various articles are
spread and displayed to the best advantage. Notwithstanding
the value of some of the merchandise they thus lay forth, subject
to accident as well as purchase, the place is a free thoroughfare 3
118 - TIFLIS.
not merely to pedestrians, but to horsemen, to asses with bur-
thens, and even droves of buffaloes are not excluded. Hence it
is often both disagreeable and dangerous to the foot-passenger;
yet we never find it but full of people and bustle from morning
until dusk. Not far from the bazar is the public caravansary,
where merchant-travellers take up their quarters. Here you see,
exposed on the stone or earthen floors, of dark and vaulted
apartments, whatever goods the merchants who inhabit them
may possess. The owner of each heap, sits cross-legged, in
grave attendance, waiting the appearance of customers, or bar-
gaining with those who arrive; and in one of them, I discovered
an old fellow-traveller, an Armenian merchant, who had passed
the Caucasus with me. He was pleased with the encounter,
and treated me with a kaleon, sweetmeats, and some brandy,
made at Erivan. This building is circular, three stories in height
with a sort of gallery running in front of each range of doors,
from whence stone steps descend, to conduct passengers above
or below. The centre of the court is filled with the horses and
mules of the merchants in the caravansary. -
At one extreinity of the bazar we find a small bridge over a
deep ravine, at the bottom of which flows a mountain-stream;
pure and cold at its fountain-head, but mingling here with the
hot-springs, which take their rise in the adjacent heights, it be-
comes warm, and derives all the medicinal properties, whose
fame gave birth to Tiflis. Over this steaming flood we find the
public baths erected. They form not only a resource in sick-
ness, to the natives, and to travellers visiting them with the
same object, but they are the daily resort of both sexes, as places
of luxury and amusement. On one side of the bridge stand those
appropriated to the men; and on the other, immediately below
BATHS OF TIFLIS. 119
the gloomy walls of the citadel, the range intended for the wo-
men. The water which supplies these distinct bath-houses is
strongly impregnated with sulphur, having the usual offensive
smell of such springs. Its degree of heat may be reckoned at
from 15 to 36 degrees of Reaumur in the several basons. At
the source of the hot stream it is about 42. The basons are ex-
cavated in the solid rock, over whose surface the water had
originally flowed; and these are divided, under one immense
vaulted roof, into different apartments, whence even the smallest
egress of day-light is excluded; and which are merely rescued
from total darkness by the faint glimmerings of a few twinkling
lamps struggling with the vapours from the stream. The stench
of the place, and the disorder and filth which this meagre illu-
mination rendered visible, showed sufficient argument for the
whole having been left in shade. I did not see a spot in any
one of the apartments, where it was possible for a bather to lay
his clothes down without the certainty of taking them up again
drenched in wet and dirt. When, however, I considered that -
these baths are free to the entrance of all who will, and that
they crowd, indiscriminately, into every chamber alike, I ceased
some of my wonder at so great a dearth of order or cleanliness;
though I did not the less mark the inconveniences of their ab-
sence, as we journeyed farther through the successive boiling
caverns, and felt, at every remove, a more intense heat, a denser
atmosphere of steam, and an increased accumulation of all that
can disgust the senses of a man used to the retirement and com-
fort of European baths. All sorts of people were here huddled
together, scrubbing, scraping, rubbing, shaving, &c.; the of:
fices of each act being done, either by the companions of the
bather, or the persons of the bath, who are always in attendance
120 BATHS OF TIFLIS.
with the various requisites for these extraordinary modes of
purifying the human frame. But to proceed would be as offen-
sive to my reader, as it was then to myself; so I hasten to re-
cross the bridge. There, however, I was urged by the gentle-
man who accompanied me, to try if we could not get a glimpse
into the baths dedicated to the fair sex. The attempt seemed
wild; but, to please him, I turned towards the building, and, to
our astonishment, found no difficulty in entering. An old wo—
man was standing at the door; and she, without the least scruple,
not only showed us the way, but played our sybil the whole
while. In one of the bathing-rooms nearest to the door we
found a great number of naked children, of different infantine
ages, immersed in a circular bath in the middle of the chamber,
where their mothers were occupied in washing and rubbing
them. The forms of children are always lovely; and, altogether,
there being a regularity, and its consequent cleanliness, attend-
ing the adjustment of their little persons, we looked on, without
receiving any of those disagreeable impressions which had dis-
gusted us in the baths of their fathers. Passing through this
apartment, without any remark of surprise or displeasure from
the mothers of the children, we entered a much larger chamber,
well lighted, and higher vaulted in the roof. No water was seen
here; but a stone divan, spread with carpets and mattrasses, was
placed round the room, and on it lay, or sat, women in every
attitude and occupation consequent on an Asiatic bath. Some
were half-dressed, and others hardly had a covering. They were
attended by servants, employed in rubbing the fair forms of
these ladies with dry cloths, or dyeing their hair and eye-brows,
or finally painting, or rather enamelling, their faces. On quit-
ting this apartment, (which we did as easily as we entered it,
BATHS OF TIFLIS. 121
without creating the least alarm or astonishment at our audacity;)
we passed into the place whence they had just emerged from the
water. Here we found a vast cavern-like chamber, gloomily
lighted, and smelling most potently of sulphuric evaporations,
which ascended from nearly twenty deep excavations. Through
these filmy vapours, wreathing like smoke over the surface of
a boiling cauldron, we could distinguish the figures of women,
in every posture, perhaps, which the fancy of man could devise
for the sculpture of bathing goddesses. But, I confess, we were
as much shocked as surprised, at the unblushing coolness with
which the Georgian Venuses continued their ablutions, after they
had observed our entrance; they seemed to have as little
modest, covering on their minds, as on their bodies; and the
whole scene became so unpleasant, that, declining Olll: COIl-
ductress's offer to show us farther, we made good our retreat,
fully satisfied with the extent of our gratified curiosity.
Persons who bathe for health do not remain longer than a
few minutes, or whatever time may be prescribed, in the water ;
but when the bath is taken for pleasure, these people are so
fond of it, that, like the Turks in the case of opium, they pro-
long its application to such an extent, as ultimately to be equally
injurious to their strength and personal appearance, Some pass
many hours every day in this debilitating atmosphere, inde-
pendent of one whole day in each week; great part of which,
however, is spared from the water, to be spent in making up
their faces, blackening the hair, eye-brows, and eye-lashes, so as
to render only occasional repairs necessary during the ensuing
week. Thus occupied in the vaulted room, these Eastern
goddesses, growing in renewed beauty under the hands of
their attendant graces, meet each other in social conference;
VOL. I. R
122 MANNERS AND CUSTOMs.
discussing family anecdotes, or little scandals of their acquaint-
ance; and, not unfrequently, laying as entertaining grounds of
retaliation, by the arrangement of some little intrigue of their
own. For, I am told, there are days in the week when any lady
may engage the bath for herself alone, or with any other party
she may choose to introduce as her companion. The good dame
who was our conductress, I understood, is never backward in
preparing such accommodation. -
Within these twenty years, the higher ranks of the inhabitants
of Tiflis have gradually lost much of their Asiatic manners; and
it was a change to be expected, from their constant intercourse
with the civil and military officers of the European empire, to
which they had become a people. Such changes are not always
at their earliest stage properly understood by the persons who
adopt them; hence, nations who have been long in a state of
vassalage, when they first break from their chains, usually
mistake licence for liberty; and, in like manner, the fair in-
mates of an Eastern harem, when first allowed to show their
faces to other men than their husbands, may, perhaps, be
excused, if they think that the veil of modesty can no longer be
of any use. Amongst the lower orders in Tiflis, the effect of
European companionship has been yet more decided. Owing
to the numbers of Russian soldiers, who, from time to time,
have been quartered in their houses, the customary lines of
separation in those houses could no longer be preserved; and
their owners were obliged to submit to the necessity of their
wives being seen by their stranger guests. The morals of a
soldier, with regard to women, are seldom rigid ; and these
gentlemen, not making an exception to the rule, made the best
of the opportunities afforded them by the occasional absence of
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. . 123
the husbands, to eradicate all remains of female reserve, and its
sacred domestic consequences, from the characters of their
ignorant, but pretty wives. When the women walk abroad, they
still so far retain the old custom of concealment, as to wear its
costume; and we see them tripping along, enveloped from head
to foot in the large Asiatic veil, called a chadre; and, when any
of these females happen to be standing at the doors, without
this safeguard, I must do them the justice to say, that I have
seen more than one retreat hastily into the house, on observing
herself to be attentively looked at by a man. The beauty of the
Georgian women cannot be disputed; having fine dark large
eyes, very regular features, and a pleasing mild expression of
countenance; and, from these characteristics being general, if
there be any thing in physiognomy, we must conclude that they
are naturally sweet-tempered and amiable. The dress of the
higher ranks is splendid, and carefully adjusted; but the lower
order of females, notwithstanding they share the same taste for
the ceremonies of the bath, and regularly go through them all,
wear clothes which seldom make acquaintance with soap or
water; consequently they appear often in rags, and always
in dirt. -
In going towards the citadel, through the bazar, I saw several
women of different degrees, flitting about under shelter of the
impenetrable chadre, and it was not easy then to find out
whether it covered riches or poverty. While passing along, my
attention was arrested at a baker's shop, by the singular way in
which the owner was forming and baking his bread. He first
rolled it out, to the length and breadth of a common chamber-
towel, and not much thicker; then taking it up over the palms
of his hands, threw it with admirable dexterity against the side
- R 2
124 CITADEL OF TIFLIS.
of the oven, where it stuck. The wall of the oven being kept
continually hot, by a constant supply of burning wood beneath,
in a couple of minutes the cake was baked, and removed by the
point of a stick. This kind of bread is in use over most part of
Asia, and serves, not merely as food, but for plate and napkin
during the whole meal.
On arriving at the old citadel, I found it well worth the labour
of ascending the many hazardous declivities which lead to its
base. It exhibited a mass of ruins, but they were grand and
imposing, and the situation in which they stood, increased the
wild majesty of these Eastern towers. When the Turks took
possession of Georgia in the year 1576, they erected this fortress,
to awe the province from its capital; and when the Persians
over-ran the same, about two centuries after, they dismantled
the venerable structure, and left it gradually to sink into the
dark heaps of ruins which now mingle with the natural cliffs of
the rock. Its site was well chosen, on the summit of a very
high promontory, which forms the termination of the mountain
that overshadows the town on its south-western side. Within
the old battlements may still be found the remains of the mosque
mentioned by Chardin, and which is now used as a prison for
malefactors, under an officer and guard. Besides this main
fortress, the Turks of the same period strengthened their hold
of the town by a range of towers and walls, which enclosed it
on every side; but all are gradually disappearing, (except the
wall facing the river, which still stands ;) and the spoliation of
... hands at home, by taking materials from these ruins, as well as
from those of the citadel above, to assist in building or repairing
places in the city, has done more than even the ravages of war,
to level these ancient bulwarks. &
TURKISH MONUMENTS. 125
Besides the peculiar pleasure, to a military taste, in viewing
the remains and situation of the citadel and other works, the
valley behind the public baths, which leads to the most con-
siderable of the ruins, possesses picturesque and interesting
objects in itself. In following the windings of this wide moun-
tain cleft, for some distance, we were imperceptibly led into a
deep chasm, whose dark granite sides were broken into abrupt
shelves, over which rush the waters of a lofty cascade, tumbling,
with great noise, into a bed of rocks beneath. Thence it flows,
murmuring along, by the base of the fortress, till it unites
with the broader stream of the Kur. The immediately-sur-
rounding objects mingle more beauty with the sublime, than
the first approach to Tiflis had given us to expect in any part of
its adjacent scenery. Many of the cliffs are richly covered with
trees and shrubs, and carry the delighted eye through rocky and
umbrageous intricacies, to the shining promontory, over which
shoot the waters of the fall. Still we look upward, and see the
mountain of the citadel, crowned with its mouldering towers.
Near to the more southern side of the mountain, we found a
small spot of rising ground, covered with graves and other
funeral monuments. They were those of the Turks, who pos-
sessed this province some centuries ago, and were crumbling
into dust, in awful sympathy with the prouder relics of departed
life and greatness, in those of their ancient fortress on the
heights above. Amongst these decaying mansions of the dead,
five tombs, eminently distinguished by their dimensions and
architecture, still stand quite entire. They are square buildings
of brick, curiously put together, and ornamented on the outside
with chequered and lozenged fretwork, in various compart-
ments and projecting friezes, cut in the brick. Each tomb has
126 - CHURCHES IN TIFLIS.
an arched door-way, which conducts into a vaulted room. This
chamber, which is the only one in the building, has no orna-
ments on its walls; they are simply stuccoed, and were, probably,
the place of prayer for the Moullahs (or priests) over the dead
body, entombed below, of some illustrious Turkish chief. This
sort of expiatory rite is religiously performed by Mahometans,
on certain days, at the graves of their deceased brethren in the
faith. The pavement of one of these monuments was broken
up, and, in looking into the aperture, a long and narrow stone
coffin became visible, wherein I could discern a scull, and other
human bones. Every one of these tombs bore marks of having
been frequently opened, probably in search of hidden trea-
sure. I could not discover an inscription on, or near any of
them.
There are several fine churches, of different Christian persua-
sions, in Tiflis ; and that which is dedicated to the Roman
Catholic mode of worship is one of the most beautiful. The
cathedral of Holy Sion, the great Armenian church, is more,
extensive, but does not equal its tolerated rival in richness and
grace of -architecture; yet it has an advantage in situation,
which, adding the majesty of nature to the holy sanctity of the
place, seems fully to answer the character of its name. The
noble waters of the Kur roll near its base, increasing in rapidity -
and sound, as they pour onward amongst the thickening rocks
of the suddenly closing in of the bold cliffs, which embank the
stream. At this narrowed point, a bridge of one single arch
connects the town with a considerable suburb, called Avlabar.
It is chiefly inhabited by a colony of Armenians, who fled
from the neighbourhood of Erivan, during the late wars between
Russia and the Persian government. Here, also, we saw the
ELBORUS, AND THE ARK, 127
ruins of an ancient fort, church, and houses; and about two
miles further from this side of the city, stand the remains of
another sacred edifice of old times, on the summit of a hill so
high, that it commands the most extensive view to be found
any where in the environs of Tiflis. From one side it embraces
the city, with its citadel, churches, and gardens; on the other
to the north, the windings of the Kur, through the varied shores
of the valley and plain ; and takes, also into the same wide
landscape, not only the whole chain of mountains from the pro-
vince of Kahetia to Kasibeck, but their tremendous summits,
pile above pile, as far as the eye can reach to the north-west,
till all. are crowned by the pale and cloud-encircled head of
Elborus. A Russian officer, who measured this last-named
mountain, calculates it to be sixteen thousand seven hundred
feet above the level of the sea. -
There is a tradition here, that, during the subsiding of the
deluge, the ark of Noah, while floating over these mountains
in the direction of Ararat its place of final rest, it smote the
head of Elborus with its keel, and the cleft it made in the moun-
tain has remained ever since. To give any colour of feasibility
to the legend, it had better have represented that the ark struck
off the top of the one mountain in its passage to the other; for,
otherwise, Elborus, towering as it is, being at present much
lower than Ararat, it could not have been touched at all by the
sacred vessel floating towards so much higher a region. But
this oral remembrance of some junction having taken place
between Elborus and the earliest personages of Holy Writ, is not
the only honour of the kind attached to the history of this
celebrated mountain. Heathen traditions, and classical writers
affirm, that Elborus was the huge and savage rock of the
128 g TRADITION CONCERNING ELBORUS.
Caucasus to which Prometheus was chained. And g who, but
Eschylus, has drawn its picture? In his pages alone, we find
the magnitude, sublimity, and terrors, of that “stony girdle of
the world,” that quarry of the globe, whence all its other
mountains may seem to have been chiselled; such are its won-
drous abysms, its vast and caverned sides, and summits of every
form and altitude, mingling with the clouds. There is still a
tradition amongst the natives, who reside in the valleys of
Elborus, that the bones of an enormous giant, exposed there by
Divine wrath, are yet to be seen on its smaller summit. Indeed
the story is so much a matter of firm belief with the rude tribes
in that quarter of the Caucasus, that people are to be found
amongst them, who will swear they have seen these huge re-
mains. Marvellous as the story is, it seemed so well attested
that, some time ago, an European general officer thought he
might make it a ground for penetrating farther than had yet
been attempted, into the interior of the mountains; and, accord-
ingly, I was told, he set forth on this expedition, with a party
of two hundred men and a light piece of artillery, to ascertain
the truth of so extraordinary a tale. However. the moment
was not yet arrived for a European eye to behold the remains
of this dead Colossus; for scarcely had he penetrated any dis-
tance into the recesses of the mountain, when a dreadful
avalanche rolled in fury down its side, and overwhelmed the
whole party, excepting its leader, and two or three soldiers.
There was now no doubt amongst the natives, that the in-
tention of the expedition was to have given charitable sepul-
ture to the unburied corpse, and that the accident happened
in consequence of the vengeance of the spirits of the mountain,
who had the mysterious relics in charge; thus to show that the
TRADITIONARY ACCOUNTS OF CAUCASUS. 129
doom of their being left to bleach on that unsheltered rock for
ever, should never be reversed. So far, the judgment of the
spirits of the mountain But it is more credibly believed by the
persons who told me the story, that the real object of the expe-
dition, which set forth under this mask, was to reconnoitre
ground for the establishment of some good positions in the
mountains. - . . .
This quarter of the globe has justly been styled the cradle of
mankind; and the long recollections of the land of their origin,
to be found amongst the people of countries the most distant,
even in their nursery tales, might be one minor proof, of all the
dispersed families of the earth having sprung from this patri-
archal home. From the earliest times, we find the regions
between the Euxine and Caspian Seas, to be the noted theatre
of the most heroic and marvellous actions. Events are recorded,
in which not men only, but preternatural and supernatural
beings played conspicuous parts. In the east, and in the west,
we hear and read of the mountains of Caucasus, and their sur-
rounding countries; in history, in fable, and in poets' dreams.
Medea prepared her magic spells in their vicinity; and, aided
by ethereal agents, renewed the decayed forms of age to all the
freshness of youth and beauty. Even now the most romantic
and extravagant tales are told by the natives of the country, of
these airy inhabitants of the heights. Powerful genii or demons,
with their attendant benign or evil spirits, they say, still
hold their courts amongst the ices of Kasibeck, the snows of
Elborus, and the caverned summits of the less-towering Cau-
casus; and so great is the terror amongst some of the people of
the valleys, no bribe could induce them, by attempting to ascend,
VOL. I. . . . - S
130. - * PRODUCTIONS OF TIFLIS.
to incur the cruel torments denounced by these spirits on any
rash mortal who should dare to explore their haunts.
During my stay at Tiflis, the weather, which was almost one
continued rain, proved very unfavourable to my wish of penetrat-
ing any depth into the fine province of Kahetia, the celebrated
Albania of the ancients. However, what I did see, more than
answered the images impressed on my imagination, by the repre-
sentations I had received of the abundant beauties of its valleys.
The hills, and even mountains are clothed with the finest woods,
consisting of oak, ash, chestnut, beech, and elm, intermixed with
a thousand peculiarly favoured spots, (as if the benign spirits of
these more genial regions had here planted their own little secret
gardens,) producing the most delicious grapes, though wild, and
fruits of the choicest flavour. The wines, both red and white,
which are made from these natural vineyards, have always been
esteemed for softness, lightness and delicacy of taste, beyond
those of any other district in the province of Georgia. The
valleys of Kahetia are abundant in hemp, flax, rice, millet,
barley, and wheat; and with so little trouble to the occupier of
the soil, it might almost be said, they grow spontaneously.
Pheasants, wild fowl of every kind, antelopes, and deer, sheep,
and all sorts of domestic cattle, enrich these luxuriantly-pas-
tured vales. The rivers, too, add their tribute of plenty to the
ample stores of nature. And, to wind up the climax of such a
prodigality of blessings, (for all the treasures of the mineral
world may be found in the hearts of its mountains,) the climate
is delightful. Indeed, heaven seems to have drawn to this
happy spot the essence of all that is necessary to the wants of
man. But, alas ! the man which has been placed in this earthly
paradise, to keep, to dress, and to enjoy it, has neither the will
DEPRAVITY OF THE INHABITANTS. 131
to separate the weed from the good herb, nor the taste to feel
that it is sweeter than his neighbour's. Sunk in apathy, he cares
not whether rain or sunshine descend on the ground; aban-
doned to indolence, it is all one to him, whether his food be the
bramble or the grape; and, for personal comfort, the stye would
afford as pleasant a pillow as a bed of flowers: such is the pre-
sent Kahetian But, that so strange a contrast between the man
and the soil, is not always the effect of any natural cause, such
as climate, &c. may be affirmed, from what was the character of
the Albanian inhabitant of this very same district. -
Dr. Reniggs, who resided for a considerable time in Georgia
during the reign of the unfortunate Heraclius, writes thus of the
general Georgian character at that time, which, of course, in-
cludes the Kahetians, their country being a province of Georgia.
And in the reasons he gives for the moral defects he describes,
we find the cause why the later natives of Kahetia differ so
essentially from its earlier people, when the same country bore
the name of Albania. .
He observes, “that both the nobles and peasantry of Georgia
are given up to a wretched degree of sloth, appearing to despise
all laudable pursuits which require attention or labour; and
amongst others, the cultivation of the earth. But this stubborn
indolence is not the natural bias of the Georgian. He is fully
aware of his wants, of his miserable poverty, and of the usual
means of relieving such a state; but he has no hope, in applying
to the resources apparently open to his industry. Oppression is
at the door to weigh down his efforts, or rapacity at hand to
seize the product of his labours. He is under the eye, and the
hand, and the double yoke, first of his own chiefs, and then of
the powers beyond them, till the burthen becomes too heavy to.
s 2
132 IMPROVEMENT UNDER
be borne erect, and the man falls prostrate, – a wretched, use-
less slave. Thus avarice set bounds to its own extortion, by
damming up the sources whence it flows.” Constant feuds
amongst the chiefs themselves, rendered desperate by the total
absence of all law or justice; the inroads of the Lesghees, and
bloody wars with the Turks and Persians; all combined to drive
the great mass of the people into that state of utter despair,
which gradually subsides into the sullen contentedness of sloth,
ignorance, and poverty. This must be the universal situation of
every country which has been, for any time, under the subjec-
tion, or rather mis-rule, of a ceaseless change of masters; some
absolutely barbarians, and others, who have yet to learn the
science of government from Christian laws : and this was the
situation of Georgia for a sad succession of times. But, about
twenty years ago, it was received within the lines of the Russian
empire; and the happy effects on the minds of the people, in
feeling themselves under a regular government, secure in its
natural strength, and dispensing that security to its appendages,
are already become very apparent. Every encouragement to
industry is held out to them ; and none has more persuasion
than the laws, which protect men in the possession of the fruits
of their labours. The different European governors, who have
been put at the head of affairs here, since the junction of the
province with Russia, have done all in their power to conciliate
both nobles and people, by the administration of an equal jus-
tice, and a gradual amelioration of all those circumstances which
had so long disorganised, and rendered poor, savage, and
miserable, all ranks of persons. Being now effectually guarded
from the inroads of the Lesghees, or the more overwhelming
incursions of Turks and Persians, the higher orders begin to
THE RUSSIAN GOVERNMENT. 133
feel again that they hold a station in their country; and to
establish the re-awakened sense in their own minds, and in the
respect of the people at large, His Imperial Majesty has con-
ferred orders and medals of distinction on many of the native
mobility, with titles and commissions of military rank; and, in
short, every other excitement to the restoration, or rather civilis-
ation, of the country, that can be offered by a generous sovereign
to a brave and confiding people. That they are still brave, when
they have any thing beyond mere animal existence to defend,
has been made manifest during the last twelve or fourteen years.
In the wars of that period, they engaged heart and hand under
the banners of Russia; and their chiefs so distinguished them-
selves, that many rose to the rank of generals; still continuing
the brave acts by which their new honours were won. Indeed,
it is very evident how much easier their new government finds
it to arouse the old spirit of Iberian and Albanian courage, in the
bosoms of their Georgian descendants, than to inspire them with
one for traffic and agriculture. But all will succeed in good
time; and their neighbours, the Armenians, set a stimulating
example of the ways and means of industry, and show many per-
suasive advantages, resulting from their extensive exercise. The
high reputation as a soldier, which is attached to the character
of His Excellency General Yarmolloff, and the noble style of
his government, not in parade, but in principle, suits well with
the naturally independent minds of the people, so long chained
to the soil. The marks of those evil days, now passed away,
are, yet upon the countenances of most of the men: a sort of
cloud hangs over their brows, habitual from the gloom that once
possessed their souls; but with the growing perceptions of
happier times, these shades will disappear, and the brave Geor-
I34 . DRESS OF THE GEORGIANS.
gian look as brightly to the sun, as any of his free-born brothers
of the mountains. -
One evening, at an entertainment given by His Excellency
the Governor-general, I had an opportunity of seeing, not only
a great many of the native nobility of both sexes, but also per-
sons of consequence from other of the Caucasian countries.
The Georgian noble is particularly distinguishable by the som-
bre cast of visage, above described; but though so stern, it is of
a fine contour, and harmonises with the manliness of his figure
and style of dress. The latter is admirably calculated for free-
dom of motion, and therefore cannot but show the person to
advantage. It chiefly consists, first of an under garment of fine
pink cloth, worn as a shirt, and discoverable by the opening of
the vest at the bosom, but only as far up as the bottom of the
throat, the neck being entirely bare. The vest, which is cloth
also, of a different colour from the shirt, has sleeves to it, sitting
easy to the arm ; and over this is the tunic or upper garment,
coming down as low as the knees, but opening before; and
bound round the waist with a cloth sash, universally white, to
which is attached the wearer's sword. The skirt of the tunic
meets the termination of the full short trowser or breeches,
which descend no lower than the knees; the leg being covered
with a stort of stocking, and a close-laced half-boot, usually
black or scarlet, with a very pointed toe. All these various
garments are of cloth, of as various hues; and, frequently, very
handsomely ornamented with gold lace or embroidery. Musta-
chios on the upper lip, with some appearance of dark curling
hair in the pole of the neck, from under the high black sheep-
skin cap on his head, complete the dress of a Georgian gentle-
man. This cap is, in form and materials, the same with that in
DRESS OF THE GEORGIANS. 135
use all over Persia; only, the Georgian “wears his, with a dif.
ference;” not striking it down into a sort of biforked shape at
the top, when putting it on, but keeping it quite erect, in its
original rounded pyramidal form. The costume of the lower
ranks, is marked by long trowsers, reaching to the ancles, made
of an inferior kind of silk; a dagger (or kanjar) in place of a
sword, hanging to the girdle; but the rest of the raiment, being
of the same fashion with the chief's, is also of the same mate-
rials; cloth, though of a coarser quality, and without decoration.
The dresses of the Georgian ladies bear a full proportion, in
point of cumbersomeness and ornament, to the beauty they over-
load, in attempting to adorn it. A bandeau, round the forehead,
richly set with brilliants and other costly stones, confines a
couple of black tresses, which hang down on each side of a face,
beautiful by nature, as its features testify, but so cased in enamel,
that not a trace of its original texture can be seen; and, what is
worse, the surface is rendered so stiff, by its painted exterior,
that not a line shows a particle of animation, excepting the eyes;
which are large, dark, liquid, and full of a mild lustre, rendered
in the highest degree lovely, by the shade of long black lashes,
and the regularity of the arched eye-brow. A silken shawl-like
veil depends from the bandeau, flowing, off the shoulders, down
the back; while a thin gauze handkerchief, is fastened beneath
the chin, binding the lower part of the face, and descending as
low as the bosom, where it ties over the rest of the garments;
showing, through its light medium, the golden necklaces and
other jewellery which decorate the vest. This latter piece of
raiment is usually made of velvet, or silk richly embroidered,
covering the bosom and entire waist. A close gown of brocade,
with sleeves to the wrist, and an exceedingly long skirt, devolving
136 . COSTUME.
on the ground all round, is put over the vest; but left open in
front, as far as the bottom of the waist. The whole is then con-
fined, with a fine Kashmere shawl. The sleeves of the gown are
open in front of the arm, but closed at pleasure by little pine-
apple-shaped gold buttons and loops. Over all this, in cold
weather (which was the season in which I saw these ladies) is
added the oimah, or short pelisse, of gold brocade lined with
fur: it flows loose to the figure, with wide sleeves ; is open in
front, reaching only a little below the knees; and has a superb,
as well as comfortable appearance. However, when the fair
Georgians sit or stand together, in this gorgeous apparel, the
inflexible stiffness of their position, and total absence of motion
in features or complexion, give them the effect, rather of large
Waxen images, which open and shut their eyes by mechanical
ingenuity, than that of living, breathing, lovely women.
In the course of the evening, at His Excellency's, some of the
Georgian young men of rank were prevailed on to show us a
specimen of their national dance; but none of the ladies could
be induced to take a part in it. Some noble Circassians who
were present, very readily went through the evolutions of theirs;
and the scene was far from uninteresting. It was not merely the
amusement of an hour, but a spectacle which connects the his-
tories of ages; of one aboriginal people, with that of another;
which exhibited the athletic, unconstrained limbs of natural man,
in every attitude of vigour and agility. We might rather call it
a game of exercise, than dancing. Though such are the dances
of almost all barbarous, or half-civilised nations; partaking, more
or less, of the characteristics of a chivalric, Savage, or brutal
people, according to their progress towards that point of refine-
ment when the dance, ceasing to be an exercise of strength, or a
DANCE AND MUSIC. - 137.
manual display of the passions in moments of triumph or festi-
vity, becomes a mere pastime of polished society, and a vehicle
for female grace. -
The Georgian dance, to which I was then a spectator, con-
sisted of feats of activity, and many strange, and far from elegant,
contortions of the limbs; such as twisting one leg over the other,
knocking the knees together, and hopping along on their hunkers:
but, I fear, the generality of my readers will not understand that
provincial word of the north of England; it is, however, the only
one which occurs to me, descriptive of the grotesque action,
which happens to be, also, a sport amongst children of the lower
orders, in our northern counties; and it is done, by sitting down
on their heels, and hopping about in that position. The Geor-
gians, after several other bodily freaks of the kind, completed
their exploits by capering on their toes. To give a proper spirit
to the performers, the national music had been procured, which
bore an equal rank, in points of civilisation and elegance, with
the graces it was to inspire. However, it seemed to animate the
motions of the brave inhabitants of Caucasus, in like manner
with the influence of the bag-pipe on the vigorous limbs of our
own gallant Highlanders; for feet, hands, and head, all moved in
active response to the strains of their native Orpheuses. The
instruments, and the strains, are difficult to describe; but I make
the attempt, in saying, that the first consisted of an assemblage
of small double-drums, in shape and size not much larger than a
couple of slop-basons united; these were beat continually, in
Concert with five or six instruments in the form of guitars,
played upon with a bow. Their harsh scrapings, mingling in-
cessantly with the monotonous thumping of the drums, sent forth
a noise, I could only compare to that of a water-mill, without its
VOL. I. T
138 CIRCASSIANS.
harmony. In short, it was wild and savage; — a sort of oral, as
the kind of dance is an ocular, testimony, of the antiquity of
any particular people in the country where we find such traces
of the earliest states of social man. The like strains, though
often uttered by very differently constructed instruments, with a
similar style of dance, are yet common in the Russian peasant,
and with the Cossack; and are also to be found in Africa, and
amongst the Indian nations of Asia; likewise in America, both
north and south, wherever the aboriginal people have been
suffered to exist. Hence any great and polished nation, has as
little to be ashamed of, in the remains of these proofs of the
former infancy of its state; as any personage, of modern times,
would think he had for blushing, when showing a long pedigree,
to find the names of a Caractacus, or Arminius, or any other
illustrious barbarian, in the line of his ancestry.
The Circassians, six in number, whom I mentioned as being
present at this festivity, had been in the suite of His Excellency
General Yarmolloff, during his late embassy to Persia. One of
them was a prince, a man of eminent merit, and consequent
weight amongst his people: and, if we may judge of the personal
advantages, in point of figure and noble mien, of his compatriots
at home, by those of his own person, and of his five companions,
the hardier sex in Circassia are no way inferior in beauty to the
long celebrated charms of their fair countrywomen. These men
were tall, robust, and finely proportioned; of bright complexions,
with dark eyes and hair, wearing their beards short, with an
expression of frank good-humour all over their countenances;
which makes them appear a very different race, indeed, from
what is marked in the fierce physiognomies of their neighbours
the ferocious Tchitchinzees and Ossitinians; and even as distinct
CIRCASSIAN COSTUME. 139
from the lowering eye of the dark-visaged Georgian. The
costume of this people suits well with the superior order of their
figures. It is martial and graceful. They wear on the head a
low cap, a little pointed at top, bound with fur; on this they
place a bright steel helmet, terminating in a spiked crest: from
the casque, depends a chain-mail, hanging a little over the fore-
head, but completely covering the ears, and, from thence, closing
under the chin, falls down the breast; and, by being attached to
the hinder part of the helmet, hangs a short way down the back
also ; thus skirting the whole bust of the figure, but leaving the
face perfectly open. A shirt of this chain-mail, covers the body
also, to a little beneath the hips; and likewise defends the arms,
as low down as the elbow, where it meets a kind of iron plate
fitted to the arm, and reaching from the elbow to the wrist; here
a gauntlet of mail, attached to a glove, falls loosely over the
hand. A kind of gambeson, usually of red cloth embroidered
with gold, comes up as high as the knee; and a short boot of
brown or red leather protects the foot. Over the shirt of mail
they put a surcoat of cloth or velvet, according to the quality of
the wearer. A pistol, sword, and dagger, together with a light
gun, are their usual weapons; bows and arrows being, now,
seldom resorted to in war, though in common times they are
often seen about their persons. In short, their whole appear-
ance, excepting that of the fire-arms, differs nothing from the
garb of the English baron, in the reign of King John. To show
how expert they have become in the use of the fusil, as well as
what dexterous horsemen they are, I shall merely mention one
instance. One morning, while riding with the Circassian Prince,
and Colonel Yarmolloff, the Governor's nephew, the former put
his horse off at speed; and, while going the distance of a werst,
T 2
140 . . CIRCASSIANS.
he loaded and discharged his gun six times, taking, at the same
time, very deliberate aim in various directions.
The country to which this prince belongs, is of considerable
extent along the northern face of the Caucasus; and its name
(Circassia for Tcherkass) is familiar to every European ear. But
it owes such celebrity rather to the long-established fame of the
peculiar beauty of its women, than to any other circumstance,
however note-worthy, attached to so distant a region. An un-
fortunate fame, to the unhappy beauties who sent it forth; since
it has, for so many ages, made the successive generations of
Circassian female youth an object of constant incursions into
their country. The adjoining hostile tribes steal them away.
either, by open violence or secret surprise, and sell them at a
great price to the Mahometan harems of the East. But the
Circassian nation deserves attention on other grounds than this
romantic fate, or rather hereditary calamity, attached to the
daughters of its people. It is one of the most independent
nations of the Caucasus; and consists of many tribes, of various
appearance, and in some respects of various dignity; at least in
their own estimation, which they tacitly proportion to their ideas
of the relative antiquity of their seat in those renowned moun-
tains. Compared with the rest, I believe the lineal descendants
of the very ancient people of Circassia are few ; but the un-
polluted stream is sufficiently distinguishable, by the unvarying
superiority of its offspring, over the degenerated appearance of
the tribes, whose ancestors mingled their blood with the Tatars
of Dchingis (Gengis, or Zingis) Khan; the posterity of whom con-
tinued the same inattention to the purity of their race, when sub-
sequent events brought other stranger hordes amongst them. The
generality, therefore, of the Circassian tribes differ little in man-
CIRCASSIANS. 141
ners from their mountain-neighbours of altogether different
origin and names; but the tribe of the prince I before men-
tioned, and his five companions, being unquestionably that of
the old race, retain marks of civilisation not to be found in the
others. They state their origin to be Arab ; and are proud of
asserting that the stream of their blood has passed, from its first
patriarchal source until now, uncontaminated by any foreign
mixture. They divide themselves into three classes, – princes,
nobles, and vassals; the latter, like the clans of Scotland, being
faithfully attached to their chieftains. The person of the
Prince, or Chief, is held sacred; and, during his feasts, he is
waited on by his nobles. But all is done rather with the air of a
patriarch served by his sons, than of slaves, or even servants,
attending the nod of a master; and the fact is so. Although
the noble serves, with the greatest awe, his chief; yet his free-
dom and his property are totally independent of that chief’s
arbitrary will: neither can the noble appropriate to himself any
part of the property of his dependents, nor even the chief,
invade the right of the meanest. They have nothing like a
written law amongst them, but are governed by a sort of com-
mon right, or by what has become an established custom from
ancient usage. The great bulk of the tribe (which, from its
clear descent, and superior civilisation, alone deserves the name
of the Circassian nation) meet, on momentous occasions, in a
sort of convocation; where, whatever may be the cause of their
assembling, the Prince always opens the business, and proposes
the measure he thinks best adapted to the circumstances of the
meeting. The whole body of the nobles then deliberate on what
he has brought forward; and the result is referred to a certain
number of grave personages from amongst the people at large,
142 CIRCASSIANS.
who, by their eminent wisdom and patriarchal consequence,
have acquired the title of Elders; and are chosen on these occa-
sions by the people, or vassals, to be their representatives.
These venerable men, in their turn, discuss the matter in debate,
and give in their opinion. If the three consultations are then
found to agree for the measure proposed, it is adopted; and if
it be a question of social right, the decision henceforth becomes
a precedent, and acts as a sort of national decree. These as-
semblings, like the great meetings, or wittenagemots, of our
ancestors, are held in an open space, near the habitation of the
prince. And, indeed, it is curious to observe how much the
form and spirit, as well as place, of this simple parliament, re-
semble that which was the foundation-stone of our present most
glorious, and, I trust, adamantine constitution.
The prince and his nobles have much the same sort of educa-
tion that was bestowed on the great men amongst our Saxon
ancestors; manly exercises, and the use of arms. The prince
alone is regularly taught to read and write. In all but this
distinction, (which is a real superiority, as its tendency is to
enlarge the knowledge where most power resides,) he is trained,
from his earliest youth, along with the younger chieftains, to
the management of the horse, and the mastery of every weapon
in use amongst them ; and at a certain age, he accompanies his
instructors and their followers in occasional excursions against
the neighbouring predatory tribes, to enure him to brave danger,
to rescue plunder, or retaliate rapine; and to make him ac-
quainted alike with the passes, which will most readily conduct
him into the territories of his enemies, and the avenues that
might easiest lead them to his own. -
CIRCASSIAN WOMEN. 143
The women, who are so often the only spoil sought after by
the marauding tribes about Circassia, are brought up in simple
and domestic habits by their mothers; a mode of education that
must make the act of being torn from their parents and country
doubly distressing to the youthful victims. They are taught by
their mothers, not merely the use of the needle in decorative
works, but to make their own clothes, and those of the men of
their family. Soon after a female infant is born, her waist is en-
circled by a leathern bandage, sewn tight, and which only gives
way afterwards to the natural growth of the child. It is then
replaced by another; and so on, till the shape is completely
formed, according to the taste of the country. The first night of
her nuptials, the husband cuts the cincture with his poignard; a
custom something dangerous, and certainly terrific, to the blush-
ing bride. After marriage the women are kept very close, not
even their husbands' own relations being suffered to visit them ;
but, what seems an extraordinary inconsistency, a man has no
objection to allow that privilege to a stranger, whom he permits
to enter the sacred precincts of his home, without himself to be
a guard over its decorum. For it is a rule with the Circassians,
never to be seen by a third person in the presence of their wives;
and they observe it strictly to their latest years.
On the morning of the celebration of a marriage, the bride
presents her intended husband with a coat of mail, helmet, and
all other articles necessary to a full equipment for war. Her
father, on the same day, gives her a small portion of her dowry;
while he, at the same time, receives from his son-in-law an ex-
change of genealogies; a punctilio, on which they all pique
themselves with as great a nicety, as on any point of personal
honour; every man being more or less esteemed, according to
144 CIRCASSIANS.
the purity, and illustrious names, of his descent. When the
first child of the marriage is born, the father of the bride pays
up the residue of her fortune to the husband; presenting her, at
the same auspicious moment, with the distinguishing badges of
a married woman, (never put on with this tribe, until offspring
is the fruit of union,) which honourable marks are, a long white
veil, over a sort of red coif; all the rest of the dress being
white also. Indeed, white is universal with the women, married
and single; but the men always wear colours. The wife has the
care of her husband's arms and armour; and she is so habitually
anxious he should not disgrace them, that if she have the most
distant idea he has used them with less bravery, in any particular
action, than his brethren, she never ceases assailing him with re-
proach and derision, till he washes away the stain of imputed
cowardice, either in the blood of his enemies or his own. At
present, the professed religion of these people is Mahometan ;
but this sort of female heroism, speaks more like the high mind
of a Spartan virgin, or a Roman matron, than one of the soul-
less daughters of the Arabian prophet. Formerly, the Christian
faith had made some progress amongst them, but not a vestige
of its ordinances is now to be found. Hospitality, however, is
an eminent virtue with the tribe of the true Circassians ; and it
is a no inconsequential one, in these remote regions of savage
men, and more savage hostility. One of the courtesies pe-
culiarly reserved by this tribe, to do honour to strangers, I have
already mentioned; that of admitting them to the sacredness of
their domestic hearths: but this sort of welcome goes still far-
ther, and even to a preposterous length (to say the least of it)
amongst other tribes of the Caucasus, and particularly that of
the Kisty. When a traveller arrives at one of their abodes, the
AVALANCHES IN THE CAUCASUS. 145
host orders one of his daughters to do the honours of his re-
ception, to take care of his horse and baggage, to prepare his
meals, and, when night comes on, to share his bed. The refusal
of the latter part of the entertainment, would be considered as a
great affront to the young lady and her father. The natives of
a part of Lapland, not very far from Torneo, have a similar cus-
tom; but then it is the wife of the host, whom he delivers into
the bosom of his guest; and she remains with the stranger, as his
exclusive property, during the whole of his sojourn under her
husband's roof. This fact I learnt while I was in that part of
the world, during the months of December and January, in the
severe winter of 1812–13.
Some other circumstances, besides these curious anomalies
in domestic arrangements, reminded me, here, in the East, of
that winter in the North, where the common inclemencies of
that dreary season, were augmented to a fury and a terror, which
swept the armies of the South before them, like the waves of
the sea under atempest. But here, amongst the mountains, and the
valleys of Caucasus, in the winter of 1817, there were no armies
of a second Xerxes to level with the dust; only a few wandering
travellers, and the villages where they lodged, were fated to fall
under the weight of the present calamities of the season. The
news of one of these disasters, arrived at Tiflis a short time be-
fore I left it. The Governor-general had already intimated some
alarm, while remarking on the more than ordinary heavy rains,
which continued to impede my excursions round the city, lest
their effects should be of still more mischievous consequence to
the country at large. He told me that, whenever the wet season
sets in early, and with violence, at Tiflis, the snow is at the same
time falling deeply on the higher regions of the Caucasus; and
VOL. I. U.
146 AVALANCHES IN THE CAUCASUS.
the inhabitants of the upland valleys, begin to dread the too
probable devastation that may ensue. But, as the pending evil
does not always fall, the fluctuations of hope and fear generally
prevent them seeking a more secure temporary refuge; and
they wait in terrible anxiety, watching the awfully accumulating
promontory of snow, till it bursts in a moment, and all beneath
are buried in the ruin. It has been an old observation, that, in
the course of every seven or nine years, one of these overwhelm-
ing avalanches takes place. And, they are not always confined
to the winter season, but happen at any time, when either the
power of the sun, or the weight of the snows, may disengage the
preponderating load from its hold on the mountain. In June
1776, the course of the Terek was stopped by one of these ice
torrents; when its impeded waters rose to the height of 258 feet,
and suddenly tearing a passage through the rocky barrier of that
tremendous defile, with a noise louder than thunder resounded
by a thousand echoes, rushed onward in a devastating flood.
Similar was the horrid scene, report brought to us in the
month of November, 1817. The pale summit of the mountain
Kasibeck, on the side which shelves down into the dark valley
between Derial and the village which bears the mountain's
name, had been seen abruptly to move. In an instant it was
launched forward; and nothing was now beheld for the shaken
snow, and dreadful over-shadowing of the falling destruction.
The noise that accompanied it, was the most stunning, bursting,
and rolling onward, of all that must make death certain. As the
avalanche rushed on, huge masses of rock, rifted from the
mountain's side, were driving before it; and the snows, and
ice of centuries, pouring down in immense shattered forms, and
rending heaps, fell, like the fall of an earthquake; covering,
AVALANCHES IN THE CAUCASUS. 147
from human eye, villages, valleys, and people ! What an awful
moment, when all was still ! — when the dreadful cries of man
and beast were heard no more; and the tremendous avalanche
lay a vast, motionless, white shroud on all around.
The magnitude of the destruction will readily be compre-
hended, when it is understood that the depth of the snow, which
thus rolled downwards in sight of the appalled inhabitants of the
valley, was full twenty-eight fathoms, that is, 186 feet; and its
extent more than six wersts, or four miles, English. It imme-
diately blocked up the course of the Terek, whose obstructed
waters, beating up, in immense billows, foaming and raging
against this strange impediment, seemed, at times, ready to
over-top it; but, still repelled by the firmness and height of the
snow, it fell back on its bed with a roaring that proclaimed the
dreadful scene to a vast distance. The overcharged waters then
formed themselves into a lake, which spread down the whole
valley, on the river-side of its tremendous barrier; thus com-
pletely barring all communication with Wlady Caucasus. Nearly
twelve days elapsed before the river had sapped its way through
so immense a body of consolidated snow; but when it did make
all opening, its flood, and fury, and devastating consequences,
fell not far short of the dreadful ruin occasioned by the cause of
its obstruction. Bridges, forts, every thing contiguous to its -
path, were washed away in the torrent. -
Indeed, the traveller is scarcely ever secure, while passing
through some particular defiles of these mountains. The dis-
asters of a winter avalanche have just been described. And in
summer, the rocks which project from the steep face of the
precipices, frequently become loosened by the melting snows
or heavy rains; when, some sudden increase of either, severs
U 2
148 TIFLIS DURING THE FLOODS.
them at once; and they come headlong down, knocking off
others in their fall, and crushing all they find beneath. The
road then becomes impassable, till labourers are sent to clear
the path by, perhaps, launching the broken rocks over some
adjoining steep ; for, in these tracks of Caucasus, precipices a Te
on every side, above and below. Sometimes, when the mass is
to O big for such an operation, they have to make a new road
round the fallen rocks; and that often brings the foot of the
next traveller close to the edge of an abyss.
My opportune arrival at Tiflis had spared me experiencing
the effects of these worst of mountain horrors; but the bad
weather had yet made itself to be felt by me, in more ways than
one. I was prevented exploring many interesting spots in the
neighbourhood, lest some of these very floods, though in a minor
degree, might have crossed me ; and I was confined in a city,
where the depth of the mud in the streets would hardly suffer a
man to stir without-doors. But here, I must beg leave to re-
mark, that the mud inside of most houses, nearly equalled the
quantity without; so I was the sooner reconciled to being shut
up in my own more comfortable quarters. The ordinary style
of habitation in Tiflis being purely Asiatic, as I said before, is
flat-roofed, covered in with hard-beaten earth. After any con-
tinued rain the water soaks through this ineffectual defence as
if it were some huge filtering machine; and, running down the
inside of the walls, nay, pouring through the extended surface
of the roof itself, the whole house becomes inundated. But the
evil stops not there; the earth of the floor is broken up by the
flood from above; and what was at first only a thorough drench-
ing of water, is then little better than an actual morass. The
poor inhabitants, without a dry spot to sit or lie down on, are
INTENDED IMPROVEMENTS AT TIFLIs. 149
reduced to the most wretched expedients of personal discomfort
and misery. As it may be supposed, the most serious maladies
are engendered during the prevalence of these floods; and the
damps which remain when the waters have long passed away,
hardly ever leave the saturated walls and flooring till the warm
season has very far advanced. At such moments as this I have
been describing, well might travellers call it the black and dreary
valley. * . -
Such was Tiflis in the year 1817. But if the plans of the
present Governor-general, for rectifying the construction of
houses, be carried fully into effect, such will not be Tiflis, a
few years hence. What His Excellency has already accomplished
in the improvements of the public buildings, give a good speci-
men of the future fairer aspect of the place; and even those
alterations have rendered the Georgian capital so superior to
what it was a dozen years ago, that the travelling merchant can
hardly recognise its bazars and caravansary to be the same.
The skies were beginning to clear towards the 7th of Novem-
ber (O.S.), the time when I intended proceeding on my journey;
and I began making preparations for leaving a place where I had
become acquainted with many objects of interest, and enjoyed
much social pleasure, from the kindness of the Governor-general,
and the attentions of his suite. Rough and hazardous as the
road had been, over which I had passed, more rugged and dan-
gerous were the ways which lay before me; hence, it was ne-
cessary I should dispose of my carriage at Tiflis, and arrange
my.baggage so as to convey it on the backs of horses. The
General of Cossacks, to whose charge my venerable friend, the
Attaman had most particularly commended my safety, provided
a non-commissioned officer's escort to attend me to the utmost
150 THE CAUCASUS.
limit of the Russian frontier. Beyond that I must look for
other guards; and, I doubted not, for paths of still more un-
tamed wildness; tracks, not roads, begirt with banditti, savage
as their mountain fastnesses.
Travellers are certainly indebted to Russia's possession of
Georgia for the means which leads them in comparative security
from the banks of the Don to the farthest shores of the Kur.
And, indeed, all speculative minds, who are curious in the
great labyrinths of nature, must date to his Imperial Majesty's
military posts and other establishments in that province, the
daily accumulating knowledge respecting Caucasus and its num-
berless tribes, which every succeeding traveller brings from that
remote part of the world to the learned in Europe. It is from
the result of such speculations, and such facilities, that the
anatomy, (if I may be allowed the term,) of this colossus of
nature has been made known to us. Though so illustrious a
subject in ancient history, from the importance of its passes, and
the battles fought to maintain them, by Greek, and Roman,
with the native princes; yet the ancient historians had but a
very confused, and therefore imperfect knowledge of the Cau-
casus; sometimes tracing their lines in the visions of poesy,
and, at others, confounding those which the accounts of military
or other travellers had rendered more distinct, with the widely
spreading branches of Mount Taurus.
But I shall here sketch a general idea of the whole body of
this stupendous mountain-world, to which the name of Caucasus
properly belongs. It is collected from authorities that made
their observations on the spot, and verified to my complete
satisfaction, by the opportunities afforded me to go over much
of the ground myself, where I derived nearly the same result
THE CAUCASUS. - 151.
from my own investigations; and also some new information
on the subject, arising from the natural changes of time and in-
cidental circumstances.
We may consider the numerous ranges of Caucasus, as taking
their rise from one immense body, or root of mountains, which
stretches itself diagonally across that vast tract of land which lies
between the Euxine and Caspian seas. This parent stem rises
boldly to the westward, in the neighbourhood of the Turkish
post of Anapa, then takes a sweep nearly in the form of the
eastern shore of the Euxine, though considerably to its rear, and
runs along as far as the confines of ancient Colchis, now called
Immeretia. Thence it suddenly stretches in a line almost di-
rectly east, for upwards of 300 wersts; then it shoots off to the
south-east, taking the shape of the western shore of the Caspian,
and terminating amidst the sublime ruins of the Guebre altars
at Badku. This principal range boasts the gigantic Elborus and
Kasibeck, towering over the loftiest summits of its other moun-
tains, as the main bulwarks of a great fortress stand higher than
its battlements. The heads of these two celebrated mountains
are almost always obscured with clouds; and when they are par-
tially discerned by the exhalation, or rolling away of their fleecy
covering, winter or summer, still we see an eternal snow upon
their peaks. But the effects produced by the action of light, on
this pure and elevated surface, at the rising or setting sun; or in
the beam of the moon, while the shadows of the clouds are pass-
ing away; or when quite gone, have left the mountain's head
like a pyramid of silver, or tinged with a thousand aerial
colours; are not to be described, for beauty and sublimity. "Be-
neath these two mountains, rise the glittering peaks of others,
still far above the line denominated the region of snow, and
152 THE CAUCASUS.
shooting over the heads of alps subordinate to them. But these,
subordinate there, would be stupendous in any other situation.
It is comparison that makes the great and greater, though it
cannot alter the positive quality of the thing. This then, is the
first, and noblest range of the Caucasus. -
The second branch, is distinguished by the name of the Mos-
sian Hills, and was the Mooschici montes of Ptolemy. It stretches
along, from the vicinity of a Turkish fort called Battoumi, (in a
nearly parallel direction with the first range, though at a great
distance,) till it reaches the banks of the Araxes, and is lost in
the plains of Mogan. This branch is again connected with the
primary chain, by a series of mutual ramifications, forming rich
valleys; and spreading out into the fertile plains of Akhiska,
Immeretia, Kartelania, and Georgia, reaching down to Shirvan.
The most considerable line of the connecting mountains, is that
called the Tchildirr range, and is to the east of the Black Sea;
whence, stretching in all directions, it mingles its widely diverging
branches with those of the first and second leading chains; and,
running onward to the third, whose wild steeps embank the
shores of the Euphrates, it thus connects the whole. , *
This third range, (known to Ptolemy by the name of the Mons
Paryardes,) in some respects vaster, and, perhaps, more inter-
esting than the other two, takes a direction, along with the
Euphrates, to the south-west; forming a third parallel chain of
the Caucasus, till it terminates that answering line in Armenia:
and that at the point, where stupendous Ararat towers above
every other mountain. Thence, the chain makes an abrupt
angle; and, diverging suddenly due south, shoots out into all
those various branches which spread themselves over Persia, and
Asia Minor.
DEPARTURE FROM TIFLIS, 153
My route from Tiflis to Tabreez leading through both these
latter chains, I shall defer mentioning the particular features of
each, till they present themselves in the further details of my
journey. The time arrived, for its recommencement. On the
same day, the 7th of November, the gentlemen who had com-
posed the recent embassy from Russia to Persia, were to set
forth on their return to St. Petersburgh; and, as the usual
northern passage over the Caucasus was still impassable, from
thé effects of the late avalanche, it was decided they should
take the road through Derbent and Kislar. As this route lay,
for one day's march, in the same direction with my own, I joined
their party, for that short distance. We set out from the Governor-
general's house, about three o'clock in the day. It was a
fine afternoon; and His Excellency followed up his other kind-
nesses, by seeing us some part of the way. The road, which is
indebted to him for its freedom from many old impediments,
takes the sweep of the western bank of the Kur; running along
the foot of a range of hills, till they break off abruptly, near
Saganlook, our projected halting-place. On looking back to
Tiflis, that city wears a very different appearance, on this side,
from that which intimidates the traveller on his advance from
the Mskett road. Here, the view is more open ; and its hills,
and rocks, seem to lose their blackness and sterility, as they turn
their backs on the north. Gardens and vineyards, shaded with
tall poplar-trees, shelve down to the river, brightening the stream
with their waving reflections; and giving, by such cheerfulness, a
sort of stirrup-cap to the spirits of the departing traveller, which
makes full amends for the dolorous impressions that damped
his approach.
About five wersts from the city, its hospitable Governor-
WOL. I. X
154 PARTING witH GENERAL YARMOLLOFF.
general took leave of his countrymen, and myself. We looked
after him, till the turning of the road shut him from our view,
with those feelings of gratitude, and lively personal regard, the
full extent of which can only be experienced in circumstances
like these; in countries, far from a man's natural friends; where
services are offered, and accepted; and those bestowed, not with
the cold and niggard hand of formal office, but with the open
and the kindly heart: the disposition, that receives a countryman,
like a friend; and a stranger, like a countryman. Such was the
man, to whom we had just bidden farewell. And being, in every
other respect, liberal in his views, no one can be better adapted to
the high station he holds in this country. His graciousness secures
to him gratitude, and confidence, from the persons of all nations,
to whom he is kind and serviceable; for this talent of gaining
the heart is the first step to opening it. A churlish and penu-
rious representative, abroad, of any great empire, may, therefore,
be regarded rather as an enemy, who, by such vices, undermines
the interests he was sent to promote, than as a faithful minister,
whose first object should be the service, and extended influence,
of the state which employs him. General Yarmolloff is, in every
respect, what such a representative ought to be. And, by per-
fectly understanding the people he is delegated to govern; their
originally natural dispositions, and the contrary habits they have
acquired, under contradictory oppressions; he manages both,
with a greatness of aim, a gentleness in the means, and, at the
same time, sounswerving a steadiness, that the proud and gloomy
Georgians are daily becoming more sensible to the advantage of
their own laws being exercised by such a foreign hand. It is natural
that the mind should linger after old associations; should, in re-
membering times of past distinction, under brave and generous
SAGANLOOK. 155
princes, be reluctant to part with any existing memorial of such
national consequence, be it no more than a name! But the Geor-
gians, for several generations preceding their union with Russia,
had, in retaining this name—that of an independent kingdom—
been actually suffering the utmost miseries of subjugation; from
the feebleness of their native rulers, and the terrible evils which
poured into their undefended country, from the Mahometan
powers, and the barbarous hordes of the mountains. In becoming
part of Russia, the doors were shut against these oppressors;
and the rescued people soon found the substantial superiority of
living in prosperity and peace, under the name, and with the
rights, of a province attached to so great an empire, to all the
vain glories of being called a kingdom; — to the shade, rather
than the substance, of majesty, seated in the throne of their past
monarchs; while real tyrants, in the shapes of Lesghees and
other invaders, ravaged the country, and usurped the authorities
of the state. - -
During our advance to Saganlook, which is about twelve
wersts from Tiflis, we observed many picturesque objects; and,
amongst them, other time-worn memorials of the extinct dynasty
of the last Georgian kings, and their yet more famous predeces-
sors. On the eastern shore of the river, at a short distance
from our proposed quarters, we saw the remains of one of the
old fortresses, on the nearest heights; and, subjacent to them,
two as ancient towers, with the ruins of a bridge at their foot,
which had formerly been connected with the line of the present
road. On arriving at Saganlook, the place marked out for the
termination of our first day's march, we found tents pitched for
our reception, and an excellent supper, prepared by the Governor-
general's orders. The village was about half a mile from the
. - X 2
156 KODI.
spot of our little encampment, but is no regular post, and there-
fore seldom, but when self-provided as we were, made a halting-
place for travellers. We slept that night in our tents; and, next
morning, our two parties were to separate.
After taking leave of my Russian friends, whose route was then
directly contrary to mine, myself and my own little band set our
faces to the south-west; gladly turning our backs on the bitter
cold wind of the morning, which was blowing strongly and
keenly from the north. When the line of mountains stopped at
Saganlook, it did not terminate, but made an acute angle direct
south; and thence continued, stretching along the magnificent.
acclivities which formed, as usual, an Alpine wall to our road.
On quitting Saganlook, we bade adieu to the banks of the Kur,
leaving that river far to the East of our future march. Having
travelled about ten wersts onward, we descended a narrow and
rocky ravine, into a fertile little vale, bounded, to the rising sun,
by an inconsiderable, but romantically situated lake. The hills
to the westward, on our right, presented old crumbling towers;
and here and there a few clusters of mud.huts, the habitations of
the peasantry, who were occupied on the low grounds, ploughing
and sowing, for the early harvest. Each plough was drawn by a
couple of oxen, or buffaloes.
On leaving the valley, a steep ascent brought us to an exten-
sive plain, and to Kodi, our first post, where we took fresh
horses for the baggage. It is a small place, but delightfully
situated, on a fine open tract of country, which spreads eastward,
almost to the shores of the Kur. After an hour's halt, we
moved forward; our point being Shoulavar, then distant nearly
twenty-six wersts. The road would have been pretty good, but
for the numerous little channels, which the natives had cut in
SHOULAWAR. 157
every direction, for the purposes of irrigation. Having travelled
fifteen wersts more, we left the fort and post of Koulagar to our
right, and forded the Alget. The waters of this river were at
that time no higher than our horses’ bellies ; but at the seasons
of thaw and rain, like other streams in this part of the world,
they swell to a torrent. Two miles farther, we crossed the
Gramm or Ktzia river, to which the Tabate is tributary ; and,
near their junction, is the bridge mentioned by Chardin. The
waters of the Ktzia were at this time rather shallow, though
their rapidity reminded us of their descent from sources too
capable of filling such channels to overflow.
We reached Shoulavar, our long looked-for quarters, just as
night drew round us. The hour, and the situation of the post,
where all was in perfect silence, gave a peculiar solemnity to its
aspect. It lay in the dark gorge of a range of mountains, run-
ning due east, amongst whose deep defiles we were to pursue
our journey in the morning. On entering this gorge, we found
ourselves in that part of Georgia, which is called the province of
Somhetie. An old stone fortress, black with time, and the
shadows of the night, stood in frowning solitude, on a height near
the mouth of the defile, and in a position to have commanded the
pass in earlier ages." At its base, is the station of the Russian
guard, which consists of a few Cossacks, and a small detachment
of infantry. The ruins of some ancient religious structure,
added, something more, to the dark solemnity of the scene.
At eight in the morning, we ascended the mountains, which
day-light had discovered to be sufficiently rugged, though not of
the most formidable altitude. The road, up which we toiled for
an hour, was scarcely so wide as an ordinary foot-path, and very
rough all the way to the top. We then descended the opposite
158 SADAKLO O.
side, by a track of much the same difficulty; but it gradually
opened to our view a luxuriant valley, which lay at the foot of
the hills, rich in cultivation, and traversed by the Bambek; a
noble river, winding its fertilising way to the north-east, while
in that course, it is augmented by the united waters of the
Tabate and Ktzia. This vale, so eminent in rural beauties,
stretches east and west, and every where displays the bounties
of the full and tranquil Bambek. The banks of the river are
verdant with pastures, and shaded with trees; and the several
villages, which stand amidst its abundant fields, present to the
eye the fairest proofs of prosperity and comfort. In the middle
of the plain, nearly ten wersts from its entrance, some striking
remains still exist, of what must have been a very strong fortress.
After crossing the bed of a dry river, we reached the large and
populous village of Sadakloo, on the western shore of the Bam-
bek. The inhabitants were employed separating their barley from
its straw; and this they effected by means of a sort of wooden
sledge, to which were yoked a couple of oxen. Its lower surface
was armed with sharp projecting stones, set closely in rows.
A man stood on its upper surface, guiding the oxen, as they
drew the machine hither and thither over the heaps of the
unseparated grain. A woman attended, furnished with a long
wooden shovel, throwing the sheaves under the sledge, as it
moved round. -
Our road led to the south-west, which now gradually carried
us away from the margin of this beautiful river. At about three
wersts from it, we left the vale, and beginning to climb again,
lost sight of the Bambek. Our path across the first height, in
this new ascent, was narrow and closely wooded; and employed
us nearly the whole of the remainder of the day, in surmounting
TSHUSKAR, AND A MOUNTAIN WILLAGE. 159 . .
its mingled steeps and thickets. Towards sun-set, we attained
the summit, and reached our halting-place, the post of Tshuskar,
which stands on the brow of a small conical hill. Here a grand
view of the river,whose absence we had regretted in the morning,
broke upon us, as it wound amongst rocks, at the bottom of a
deep ravine, between two immense piles of perpendicular cliffs.
About thirty or forty Cossacks inhabited the post; a numerous.
body, in very narrow dimensions; and, consequently, not finding
sufficient accommodation for myself, and the many persons I had
with me, I was obliged to go a mile further into the mountains,
to a rather considerable village, where lodgings might be pro-
vided me. Though the dusk had pretty far advanced, we were
rewarded for this prolonged march, as we went along, by the
sight of one of those happy spots of the Caucasus I have before
described : beautiful little glens, smiling with the successful
labours of man; while the brows of the acclivities above showed
a rich and fragrant herbage. At the village, we found warm and
ample quarters. The good people set before us a plentiful regale
of milk, eggs, butter, &c., with exquisite honey. This latter
luxury I might have anticipated, from the propitious aspect of
the country, for maintaining whole colonies of the little manufac-
turers; and, I understand, it is an article of great profit to the
inhabitants. Indeed, every thing I saw, spoke the fertility of
the soil, and the hospitality of its possessors. They have nume-
rous herds of cattle, with abundance of wheat, barley, millet,
&c.; and, what is better than all, their content seems to equal
their blessings.
At eight o'clock in the morning, we left our village friends;
and retreading our steps towards the post, soon regained the
brink of the precipice, which forms one side of the high and
160 . * SCENERY IN CAUCASUS.
perpendicular chasm, through which the river flows. The
mountains shoot up, beyond these abrupt walls of rock, to a
great height; and, both in outline and surface, resemble those of
Derbyshire; not in altitude, for ours are but hillocks when com-
pared with these giants of the earth. All along the valley, I
observed the same variety of hue, and projection, amongst the
rocks, as in the vales of that celebrated spot in my native land.
Large masses of red, and grey granite, present themselves from
the sides of the mountains, in a thousand romantic shapes; ruins,
castles, churches, mingling their embattled and Gothic spires
with the thick foliage of the woods, which hang from steep to
steep, and clothe the mountains to a vast extent.
As we travelled on to the south-east, the tracts were pointed
out to me, where the silver mines were formerly worked; the
mouths of the shafts of several being still to be seen. The
rocks which form them are of a yellowish sandy hue. Indeed
the whole of this part of Georgia is rich in ores of different
kinds, and particularly in copper, a very fine sort of which is
produced near Lori. Leaving these vestiges of exhausted
wealth, or rather traces where it may yet be found, at about four
miles from the precipice of the Bambek, we crossed that river
through a deep and rapid ford, the water dashing and roaring so
as to try the mettle of both men and horses. On gaining the
shore, we followed its winding line, with the river, through the
whole of the rocky chasm ; sometimes, almost encaved by the
projecting cliffs; at others, as completely over-shaded by the
fine trees, which bent forwards, from both sides of this really
beautiful dell. High over our heads, to the southward, rose a
succession of heights; and, on the summit of one of the boldest,
we saw the monastery of Akpet, an extensive building, dedicated
BRIDGE OF THE BAMBER. 1617
to the brethren of the holy order of Dominicans. A village stands
near it, thriving and populous, I was told; and to the activity
and industry of its peasantry, the adjoining little plain, with its
neighbouring hills and glens, owed their fine state of cultivation.
Of course, these villagers are under the cognisance, or charge at
least, of the good fathers above them. The monastery of Akpet,
and another at Sennany, are the two monastic establishments, of
the greatest consequence in Georgia.
After proceeding some wersts, we re-crossed the river, in front
of a most terribly precipitous mountain, over which our road lay;
but this time, we crossed by a bridge: it was built of stone, and
consisted of one arch; the work, unquestionably, of the Arme-
nian sovereigns, when this part of Georgia was under their
jurisdiction, civil and religious. The architecture of the bridge
is curious, and the style of the Christian emblems, which are
sculptured on it, sufficiently testify its origin. Both ends are
so abrupt in ascent, they would hardly be practicable at all,
were it not for flights of steps by which they are faced. At one
side of the western extremity of these steps, where they clasp
the bank of the river, I observed a high upright, hewn, stone;
which, on examination, proved to be covered with Christian
insignia, worked in the stone. The most eminent was the cross;
and round it, fretwork, with other figures, carved in a very
masterly manner. Before we passed over the bridge, I had re-
marked two similar stones, on that side : one was raised on a
pile of large stones, and had, in addition to an engraved cross,
some inscriptions, in the old Armenian character; the other
stone, sculptured in the same way, lay on the ground, not far
from it.
VOL. I. Y
162 DANGEROUS ASCENT.
We rode on, about a mile, upon the immediate bank, or
rather rocky dyke, of the river, at the base of the mountain,
before the road turned to its ascent; but when it did, the pro-
spect was terrible. We saw one continued narrow, tortuous line,
twisting amongst naked and broken cliffs, close to a nearly per-
pendicular precipice, at the bottom of which flowed the deep and
rapid waters of the Bambek, black with the shadow of the moun-
tain before us. When we began the ascent, we found it even
more arduous than it seemed; the road being of the solid rock,
craggy and broken, and often becoming so exceedingly narrowed
by the effects of winter-fractures, that a straw's breadth hardly
divided the foot from the edge of the most horrible abyss I had
ever seen. As we mounted steep after steep, of course this
abyss deepened, showing a succession of precipices, one over the
other, till we no longer heard the river at their base. Those in
my party, who were acquainted with the country, declared it as
desperate a passage as any in the Caucasus. Indeed, it was a
subject of admiration, no less than of anxiety, in observing the
difficulties, to watch the persevering steadiness with which they
were breasted and overcome. The men could not help, at times,
showing fatigue, but never apprehension. And the Cossack
horses, who were charged with the baggage, scrambled up the
dangerous zig-zags, with a labour and a care, so like the calcu-
lation of intellect, that I could not but, again and again, marvel
at such appearances of reason, in mere instinct. It is, perhaps,
only in expeditions like the present, that we learn the full value
of these noble animals. And, as I now and then gained a
higher angle of the road, and gazed down upon them, working
so zealously and perilously in my service, I could not help
USUMLAR. - 163
sometimes trembling, lest any one of them should make a false
step. Nothing could then save the poor animal from falling
over the cliff, and precipitating those immediately behind him
to the same fate — inevitable destruction. At one of these
points, the chasm was several hundred feet beneath; and, as I
said before, every fatiguing step increased its depth and terrors.
After incredible toil, we at last gained the top of the mountain,
and saw winter before us. A vast plain stretched along the
summit, bounded on one side by another pile of mountains,
overtopping that we had just surmounted. They are called the
Algat range; and, with the whole country around them, from
its elevation, were covered with snow : a very different picture
from the green and smiling valleys I had so recently left. A
short ride, through a piercing cold wind, brought us in good
time to Usumlar, our halting-place for the night. We had tra-
velled thirty-five wersts, this day.
Usumlar was once a town of consequence, but is now a mere
village, or rather a combination of wretched huts; whose low
mud-walls, and black entrances, scarcely a yard above the surface
of the ground, give the whole more the appearance of a rabbit-
warren, than of habitations for men. Most of the villages I had
seen, since leaving the Terek, have more or less of the like
semblance, according to the degree of civilisation and industry
of the occupiers. The vestiges of Usumlar's better days consist,
chiefly, of the shattered walls of a large church, formerly the
seat of a bishop. Its architecture bears some similitude to the
remains of the like sacred edifices in Tiflis ; indeed, there is a
general resemblance amongst all this class of ruins, on the
southern side of the great chain of the Caucasus. The most
considerable difference that struck me, between the Usumlar
Y 2
164 THE BAMBEK.
cathedral, and the other ancient churches of the province, was
a sort of piazza or cloister, which surrounded the building on
the outside. The arches of this highly convenient, but un-
common appendage to a structure of the kind, were of the
pointed order; but much less so, than in any species of the
Gothic. This rather flattened form prevailed in the windows,
doors, and throughout the body of the church, wherever it was
necessary the arch shape should be introduced. The workman-
ship of the friezes, and other ornaments, was much inferior in
taste, and execution, to that I had observed on the three stones
of the old Armenian bridge. - -
We quitted our quarters, at the usual travelling hour of the
morning, with a clear sky, and six degrees of frost. Our track lay
south-west, over the plain; turning our backs on the northern
blast, which blew the keener, as it cut along by the snowy sides of
the mountains; and also on the frightful precipices to the east, which
overlooked the still deeper dell of rocks that formed the channel
of the Bambek. After traversing the plain, for nearly six wersts,
we began a gentle ascent, up a hill to the south; and, passing
over its brow, descended, on the opposite side, by a narrow,
uneven, but romantic path, towards the Bambek; which, by a
turn or two of its winding waters, met us here on the south,
though we had so recently left it in the east. Soon after we
regained sight of the river, a new object augmented the pic-
turesque of the scene; some particularly fine ruins, monuments
still of ancient piety, appearing on the summit of a high rock,
which stood near the spot where the Lori river unites with the
nobler Bambek. -
Descending towards the river, or rather to the edge of the
steep moat of rocks, dug by nature's self in the side of the
\
KARAKLISSA. 165
mountain, we followed its windings for near a mile ; and then,
passing over it once more, entered a very deep wood. The
ground, or low thicket, through which we plunged, to reach a
new ascent, was covered to the depth of two feet with snow;
and the difficulties our horses encountered, by such treacherous
footing, increased at every movement. The path up the height
itself, did not afford a more secure one; and when the ascent
was achieved, similar impediments presented themselves. We
had to keep along the ridge of a chain of rugged hills, whose
situation exposed us to every blast, while the road itself, over
which we travelled some hours, was slippery and dangerous.
At the extent of eighteen wersts, we reached the Cossack post
of Vaganz; where we were to change our tired baggage-horses
for fresh ones. That done, we recommenced our day's march,
over the same sort of rough track, for six wersts farther, till
we joined the river again. We re-crossed it, and took a western
direction, along its northern bank, to the great military station
of Karaklissa. This place is situated in the heart of a narrow
valley, about seven wersts from its entrance, and close to the
bed of the Bambek, where a mountain-torrent, bearing the name
of the town, falls into the river. Winter had laid his “cold
and shrouded hand” on every object. Besides the thick snow,
which spread over all things, the smaller streams from the hills
were arrested in their course; and even the impetuous motion
of the river was staid in places, and frozen to the depth of
several inches. . -
Karaklissa, besides being honoured with a battalion of infantry,
is the head-quarters of the general, commanding the troops on
the frontier ; but the place itself is in a poor state of fortification,
though the commandant is doing his best to set the works in
order.
166 - AMAMLOO.
My next day's journey spread a whole region of snow before
me; hill, valley, and plain, all one dreary waste; with a heavy,
burthened sky, threatening a still more deepening fall. My
halting-place, for the night, was to be Amamloo; another
military post, about twenty wersts from the preceding, lying
up the valley in a direction north-west. The road was good,
therefore we reached our quarters early in the evening. The
village attached to the fort was of the same burrow-looking
character as most others I had lately passed through. However,
I must do the natives of these wild hamlets the justice to
say, that, notwithstanding the unpromising exteriors of their
habitations, they evince a prompt kindness within, to be re-
membered with grateful recollection, by every way-worn tra-
veller of the Caucasus. The description of one of their abodes,
may be received as a pretty accurate picture of them all. The form,
like a large rabbit-hole, I have already mentioned: within, is a
room, which fills the whole compass of the house, being from six-
teen to eighteen feet wide, and often of still greater length; a
size we might deem ill-proportioned to the outward lowness of the
dwelling, but it is dug three or four feet below the surface of
the earth, which gives a height to the apartment, not to be
anticipated from without. At one end, commonly near the door,
a space is always left, untouched by the spade, sufficient to form
a sort of distinct chamber ; but no otherwise divided from the
sunken part, than by the more elevated floor. At one side of
this superior quarter, we find the hearth, with its chimney; and
opposite to them, a small hole in the roof, to admit light. The
floor is the bare earth, beaten very hard; but coarse carpets are
spread along the sides, for the people to sit and sleep on. No
table, or stools, are visible. The walls are merely dried mud,
BECKANT. * 167
with something like cupboards left in them, to hold the little
property of the family. Directly over the fire-place, we find a
small hollow of the same kind, for the reception of a hand-lamp ;
and this they never failed lighting up, whenever, I happened
to be their guest, though I always, on such occasions, burnt my
own candles. So much for the human-habitable part of this
sepulchral-like abode: the rest of it, that is, the pit, was assigned
to the pigs, sheep, horses, &c. of the family. There is something
particularly savage in this account; yet, I fear we need not go
many miles on the other side of the Irish Sea, to find similar
inhabitants in one apartment, even in the British dominions.
We left Amamloo, November 13th, (O.S.), under a heavy
snow ; and, quitting the now-compressed channel of the
Bambek, crossed some hills, which form a sort of minor branch
of the great chain of Mosschian mountains; one ramification,
to the south, being called the Karaklissa hills; while another,
lower down to the north, takes the name of the Bambek.
Having descended the connecting range, from our last quarters,
we arrived at the redoubt, and village of Beckant. The latter
is built on the side of a hill, and the military station occupies
the summit. At the bottom, runs the little river Tchitchiana.
Our route, this day, had been south-west. *
Next morning, we resumed our march, with the cold at eight
degrees of Reaumur, and taking a north-west direction, up the
valley, but under a clear and beautiful sky. At a distance of
seven wersts from our starting-point, we began to ascend a
mountain, which shuts up the valley at that extremity. The
wind was very keen, and became more so, as we mounted into
the higher regions; yet there was a bracing tone in the air, very
different from its incumbent relaxing influence, while surcharged
168 - GOUMRI.
with the snows which had now fallen. However, we trod the
deep and untracked paths of the mountain, with as much haste,
as exhilaration, to get into a more temperate atmosphere. Two
hours, carried us over the pass ; and, as we had anticipated, the
mere change of position, from heighth to depth, brought us to
something like a warm climate; at least, comparison made us feel,
it so. The sky was equally brilliant, as when we had seen it from
above; while the plain, on which we entered at the foot of the
hills, reflected a double brightness, from the dazzling white
with which it was covered. The excessive cold, and all this
glitter, were rather trying to our eyes; but they were repaid, by
the grandeur of a winter mountain-scene, which might have
reminded one, who had navigated the arctic seas, of regions near
the pole. -
Our road led to the south-west; and an hour's more travel
brought us to the town of Goumri, a strong Russian post, oppo-
site the Turkish frontier. It stands on some rising ground, in
a good position, has a considerable garrison, and is rapidly
extending its works. The plain stretches round it for several
miles, and then is sublimely encircled with mountains. The
range, to the south-east, is surmounted by the Alleguz, a vast
pile in itself, which, in part, bounds the district of Shuragyll;
and, from the rocks and caverns in its sides, pours down nu-
merous torrents to the deeper channels at its base; where they
soon collect into one wide bed, and become a river, which takes
the name of Ashtarick, or Arpasou. Thence, flowing along, it
enters Armenia; and, passing near the venerable' structure of
Eitch-mai-adzen, waters the plain, till it falls into the Aras, or
Araxes. . $ * > .
At Goumri I was to exchange my European or Cossack escort,
PREPARATIONS FOR VISITING ANNI. 169
for one consisting of natives entirely. That it should be suf-
ficient for my purpose, General Yarmolloff had taken care;
having sent orders, not only for an adequate number of men and
horses, but for every provision to be made that could render my
journey, as far as his influence went, as little subject to incon-
venience as possible. - - -
* Aware that Anni, one of the ancient capitals of Armenia, lay
not far within the Turkish frontier, my curiosity was roused to
visit it; and I could not refrain from expressing my wish to the
commanding officer at the fort, and consulting with him how it
might be done without the protection of a Turkish passport. So
far from damping my ardour, he entered warmly into all the
objects of my curiosity; and telling me, Anni was only forty
wersts beyond the barrier, he assured me, if I liked to attempt
it, I should have those with me who should be passport suf-
ficient. Accordingly, next morning, at a very early hour, I
took leave of my kind host, and found the promised guard
already in waiting. It consisted of ten horsemen, who were to
be at my orders all the way to Erivan. We were to take Anni
in our march. These men were all well-armed, and capitally
mounted; and, I doubted not, could be desperate fellows,
should occasions call them forth. At least, so I might gather,
from their garb and faces; for, never since I set foot amongst the
Caucasus, had I beheld a more murderous-looking band of
villains. Their chief was a brawny, determined-visaged man,
and wore round his neck a medal of the Emperor Alexander,
which had been hung there, with a ribband of St. George, as a
badge of his superior bravery, during the late war between Persia
and the Russian empire. A pair of long Turkish pistols were
stuck at his girdle, from which were suspended his sabre, and a
VOL. I. º Z
170 TURKISH FRONTIER.
large knife. These, with a carabine slung across his shoulders,
completed his arms. His dress was a mixture of Georgian and
Turkish; and his horse, which was as wildly and efficiently ca-
parisoned, seemed to possess equal fire with his master. The
whole of my escort, under his command, were armed in much
the same way; and each carried four or five pouches, filled with
balls, cartridges, &c., The morning being cold, several of them
were wrapped in their bourkas, which greatly increased the
savage air of their appearance. At parting from the friendly
commandant, he told me, that, with these men as my guards, I
might consider myself as safe on the other side of the Turkish lines,
as in the fort of Goumri ; they being too well known all over the
country we were to pass through, to admit of any apprehension
on our side. I might calculate on their making all fly before them,
unless opposed by very superior numbers; and that the officer
did not think probable in the present case; for, though both the
remains of Anni and the neighbouring districts bore a very bad
reputation, as the haunts of banditti, yet their depredations
had lately been made in such inconsiderable bodies, they might
rather be expected to hide themselves from our sight, than to
rush out to attack us. e -
We set forth. The cold was at 12 degrees of Reaumur ; but the
animation of my pursuit was, perhaps, a warmer defence than the
bourkas of my companions; and riding along the wide valley
to the south, towards the opposite frontier, kept the chain of
hills, with their cloud-capped Alleguz, to my left. About five
wersts onward, we passed the Arpatchaí, and so entered the
Turkish lines. This river rises not far from Kars, and falls into
the Araxes near Hadjy-baramloo; marking, there, the Persian
and Turkish frontier to the westward. The boundary once
TURKISH FRONTIER. - 171
crossed, we pricked on at a pretty round pace, and soon reached
a Turkish village, whose situation was rendered picturesque by
the tower-crowned heights in its neighbourhood. These, like
those in Georgia, were the remains of ancient strongholds, and
of religious buildings erected, in old times, by the Christian
sovereigns of the country. At this point the valley narrowed
considerably; and, as we proceeded, I observed more ruins.
They were towers also ; and, probably, had belonged to a chain
of posts, formerly established, to close the pass. A few
wersts farther, we forded the Kars, a stream which afterwards
takes the name of Arpatchai; here it is neither wide nor deep ;
but on its approach to the monastery of Kotchivan, it is joined
by another little river, called, the Akhoor, and become by
the union a considerable body of waters, takes a course through
several fine valleys, till it pours its tributary urn into the Araxes,
long before that river reaches the plain of Ararat.
The mountains, on all sides of us, appeared of a rounded form ;
not a rock even, nor a single tree, broke the smooth surface of
the snow, nor interrupted the regularly-flowing lines of the
hills. We passed, however, through a very close ravine, where
we found rock enough in our path, and had to ascend a rough
and steep side of a mountain. During our course over it, we
came to the ruins of a deserted village; a sight to which my
attendants seemed, in all ways, to be perfectly familiar. But
such ruins, thanks to civilization, are almost as strange to a
European's eye, as discordant to his taste. The tale they tell, is
of too unqualified a misery, to give any pleasing feeling of interest,
while passing their trampled remains. The delapidations of
time or of war, on great cities, or on buildings of national conse-
quence, derive grandeur from the magnitude, and not unfrequently
O Z 2
172 a - ANNI.
from the obscurity of the events which had occasioned their decay;
events, which assailing generally, do not strike so deeply on indi-
vidual happiness. But, in the ruins of a poor little village, we
see nothing but poverty robbed of its pittance; murder bursting
the doors of the hovel; and the defenceless inmates put to death,
or turned out on the waste to perish. Such was the spectacle
these silent and bare walls conjured up; and I gladly passed on
from so sad a memento of human ruthlessness and misery.
On rising the hill, we entered a wide upland valley, across
which we took a westward line, while my baggage-horses pur-
sued their way in another direction to the monastery of Kotchivan,
where we were to quarter for the night. When I made this
division, my escort told me we had then about ten wersts to ride
before we should arrive at Anni. The day was far advanced,
and being eager to reach the place time enough to allow some
hours of examination, we set off at a very rapid pace. The
road was exceedingly rough, over low hills, where often a track
was scarcely visible; but at length the towers of the ancient city
appeared at the extremity of an uneven plain, spreading to a
vast extent along the horizon. Impatient, I spurred on ; and, at
a nearer view, found its southern and eastern faces protected by a
deep and impassable ravine, through which flows the Arpatchai.
The western and northern fronts have been defended by a
double range of high walls and towers of the finest masonry.
Three great entrances present themselves to the north. Over
the center gate was sculptured a leopard or lion-passant; and
near it, on the flanking towers, several large crosses were carved
in the stone, and richly decorated with exquisite fretwork.
On entering the city, I found the whole surface of the ground
covered with hewn stones, broken capitals, columns, shattered,
wº
RUINS OF ANNI. 173
but highly ornamented friezes ; and other remains of ancient
magnificence. Several churches, still existing in different parts
of the place, retain something more than ruins of their former
dignity; but they are as solitary as all the other structures, on
which time and devastation have left more heavy strokes. In
the western extremity of this great town, in which no living
beings, except ourselves, seemed breathing, we saw the palace,
once of the kings of Armenia; and it is a building worthy
the fame of this old capital. Its length stretches nearly the
whole breadth, between the walls of the city on one side, and
the ravine on the other. Indeed, it seems a town in itself;
and so superbly decorated within and without, that no description
can give an adequate idea of the variety and richness of the highly
wrought carvings on the stone, which are all over the building; or
of the finely-executed mosaic patterns, which beautify the floors
of its countless halls. Near the centre of the city, rise two
enormous octagon towers of an immense height, surmounted by
turrets. They command all around them, even to the citadel,
which stands to the south-west on a high rock, and at the edge
of a precipice. The farther I went, and the closer I examined
the remains of this vast capital, the greater was my admiration
of its firm and finished masonry. In short, the masterly work-
manship of the capitals of pillars, the nice carvings of the intricate
ornaments, and arabesque friezes, surpassed any thing of the kind
I had ever seen, whether abroad, or in the most celebrated cathe-
drals of England. I particularly observed a religious edifice, of less
dimensions than some of the others, but of exquisite architecture.
It stood very near the octagon towers; and its high arched roof
was a beautiful specimen of mosaic work, enriched with borders
of the pure Etruscan, formed in red, black, and yellow stone.
&-
I'74 RUINS OF ANNI.
The pillars, and all ornamental parts of the building, were as
sharp and fresh, as if but the erection of yesterday. Indeed,
every where, time seemed to have dealt more mercifully with
this city, than the hand of man. War had broken down its
bulwarks; made its palaces, churches, and dwelling places,
tenantless ; and, in a thousand ways, left its desolating marks.
But where time alone might be expected to act, or with its
destroying auxiliaries, the influences of weather, there we found
few symptoms of decay. Fine, and even brilliant mosaic, exe-
cuted with more or less precision, spreads itself over the city;
and, in general, the form of the cross appears to be the root
whence all the various patterns spring. Houses, churches,
towers, embattled walls, every structure, high or low, partake
the prevailing taste; and, on all, we see the holy insignia carved,
large or small, in black stone. Besides these emblems, I found
long inscriptions, cut in the old Armenian character, over the
principal entrances of the churches; and some of them I
should have transmitted to paper, had not the evening been
drawing on, and with it a cold so intense as to disable me from
holding my pencil. But, had it been otherwise, the impatience
of my escort to be gone, would not have allowed me to trace a
line. Notwithstanding their numbers, and their courage, it was
probable that, under dusk, they might be surprised by a greater
force, of equal determination; banditti, issuing from the
dark and tomb-like heaps of the city, where, in the daylight,
appeared only silence and desolation. The disposition of many
of the ruins, by their closeness and gloom, rendered them apt
places for the lurking-holes of these sanguinary freebooters;
like most Asiatic cities, the streets appearing to have been not
more than from twelve to fourteen feet wide. The generality of
RUINS OF ANNI. 175
the houses along these narrow, but widely scattered lines, were
divided into a variety of small apartments, which are easily traced
in the divisions of the roofless walls. As I passed by them,
and over the almost formless masses of yet more extensive ruins,
I could not, but think of the interesting stores of antiquity,
which might be lying hid beneath those mighty fragments of
columns, walls, and heaps of stones. Even a few days' gathering
on the surface, would furnish a traveller, (could it be attempted
with any degree of security,) with very fine specimens of the
most beautiful ornaments of architecture. The military power
of the city, as far as fortifications could render it formidable,
must have been very great; for the ravine which I mentioned
before, as one means of defence, was additionally strengthened
with walls, and towers of different heights. The remains of a
noble stone bridge are yet visible over the river which flows at
the bottom of the ravine. When the sun had quite sunk behind
the mountains, it was no time to linger longer in such a place;
and, with infinite regret, I obeyed the summons of my guides,
and took a last look of the majestic relics of Anni, lying, a vast
solitude, on the grey and wintry plain ; for no living creature
appeared, even as a single looker-out, from the murderous bands
reported to infest the city. - - *
The monastery, which was to be our night's lodging, stood five
miles to the eastward; and, to that point, now a bitterly blowing
one, we turned our faces. As we rode along, I observed low
foundations of old walls, and other buildings, stretching to a con-
siderable distance from the immediate neighbourhood of the
city. At one part, two small churches were yet standing, of
the same character with those in Anni; and on another spot, I
observed a couple of prodigious-sized pedestals, supporting
*
176 MONASTERY OF KOTCHIVAN.
square blocks of stone, which were covered with Armenian
inscriptions. These pedestals, and the materials with which
the ancient capital was built, have all been dug from immense
quarries in the vicinity of Kotchivan. They consist of a beau-
tiful kind of rock, which bears the three colours described before
as forming the walls and ornamental architecture of Anni. It
is very close-grained, and susceptible of being cut into the most
g, till it is
exposed to the air; and then, while it becomes too hard for
delicate combinations without difficulty or splinterin
such work, it acquires a solidity and a surface which resists
every destroying effect from the changes of the weather.
Before we reached the convent, night had quite overtaken us;
but, dark as it was, I yet discerned much of the interesting
scenery of the road; and amongst the rest, a high octagon
watch-tower, resembling the two I had seen in Anni. It stood
on a height, close to the pathway of the defile through which we
were to pass to the monastery. When arrived, its venerable
gates opened on no rusted hinge. I found my baggage-horses,
with their attendants, had been comfortably housed some hours;
and the holy brotherhood welcomed the master, and his train
of no very promising aspects, with the most cordial hospitality.
Besides these attentions from my Christian brethren, the
Turkish chief of the village honoured me with a visit.
As soon as morning dawned through the little window of my
cell, I was a-stir again; and, going out amongst my people, with
difficulty got those of my escort together. That achieved, I
bade farewell to my pious hosts, with sentiments of gratitude,
not to them only, for the services I had received, but to the
spirit of a religion which makes those establishments, whenever
needful, in all lands, the refuge of the traveller. We find these
KOTCHIVAN, AND ENTERS THE PERSIAN FRONTIER. 177
hospitable convents in almost every country of Christian Europe;
amongst forests, mountains, and all lonely places where tem-
porary asylums might be necessary; and here, amid the savage
hordes of infidel Asia, still the same sacred roof is extended to
shelter and to succour the way-faring stranger. The numerous
public inns to be found almost every where in protestant coun-
tries, supersede there the necessity of these religious hospices.
It was nine o'clock before I was able to start; and in taking
our course through the glen of the monastery, I was struck with
the romantic situation of its secluded towers. It stands on the
sloping side of a deep valley, or rather chasm, at the bottom of
which dashes the river Akhoor; the rocks in its channel, and
the rapidity of the stream, occasioning such a violence in the
current as to give it the effect of a water-fall. The village of
Kotchivan is near the monastery; and its low-roofed cottages
form picturesque groups under the other's loftier walls. Their
architecture is of the same style and period as the churches in
Anni; and it is curious to observe, that though its palaces are
sunk in the dust, or abandoned by their conquerors, a remnant
of the faith of its ancient kings still exists where it was planted.
According to our present route, we crossed the Akhoor near a
spot where a boiling spring issues from the ground, accompanied
by volumes of steam. They wreathed about like white clouds
through the thin and clear air of so cold a morning; the frost
being at 14 degrees of Reaumur, when we left the monastery. In
passing this river, we entered the Persian lines. We then kept
along its northern bank, which soon curved to the south-east;
conducting us by an abrupt ascent, to a part of the mountain-
valley we had left the day before; and, on looking to the north-
west, I again saw the old capital of Armenia, with its magnificent
WOL. I. f A. A
178 TALYS.
boundary of mountains. They are connected with the range of
Alleguz; and stretched away, in noble forms, to the end of the
boldly undulating line, where we find that towering fountain of
many floods.
Our road continued south-east, over trackless snows, through
narrow glens, and occasionally over low hills, without a tree or
shrub. Having travelled in this way for fifteen wersts, we ar-
rived at the vicinity of another ancient city called Talys, and as
totally deserted of all appearance of inhabitants as we had found
its former capital. I did not go out of the road to view it par-
ticularly; but from the distance we were at, I could distinguish
too very large churches, the remains of houses, and other build-
ings, and a great extent of walls. At the same time, I first
beheld the double head of Ararat. From the elevation of the
spot where I stood, and the numerous mountains, though inferior
to it, which obstructed my view, its appearance did not strike
me in the way I had expected. But the true effect, like that on
my perfect sight of the Caucasus, after a similar disappointment,
was only postponed. *
Proceeding south-east for nearly forty wersts, at the extre-
mity of a very long valley, we arrived at the ruins of a caravan-
sary, where we halted an hour to rest our horses. At this place,
a pleasant change presented itself, both in the face of nature
and the state of the atmosphere. The universality of the snow
had been gradually disappearing during our last day's journey;
and the unincumbered heights began to shoot out a little grass.
Here the opening of the valley shewed still less of white, and
more of green; and the air, though cold, had something of a
spring-like elasticity; a no unnecessary cordial to the traveller
who reaches this point, from the cheerless tract we had just
DEPOPULATED countRY. 179
passed over. In fact, during our whole march from the valley
of Kotchivan till we arrived at the caravansary, we had seen
neither man nor beast out of our own little band; and the dead
aspect-of all objects around, assisted the impression of our being
in some vast depopulated wilderness. Comparing the tenantless
vestiges, every where scattered over the country, of a former
numerous people, with the present utter solitariness of every
place, I could not but feel it the most dreary way I had ever
passed over. The wildest steppes of Russia were nothing to its
desolation. Those desarts are yet to be taken into the use of
man; but these have been rifled from him, and, from populous
countries, have become desarts. Almost the whole of the tract
I had just travelled, was of this painful description ; proofs
standing every where, of a once flourishing people, now swept
from the face of the earth ; the remains of great cities, of towns,
of villages, all over the plains and valleys; with the lines of their
wide communication, marked by numerous watch-towers, still
existing on the spots whence they had dispensed protection. All
this was reduced, as we now see it, by the overwhelming irrup-
tions of the Tatars; which, literally, passed as “the besom of
destruction” over the whole country. This calamity fell
upon it nearly five hundred years ago; when Anni, and the
other cities, were sacked and devasted, the towns and villages
trampled under foot, and the inhabitants either murdered or
torn from their homes. Some dispersed into Turkey; others
fled across the Caucasus, and, establishing themselves on the
Don, founded the present city of Nackchivan. A succession of
disastrous circumstances, tended to annihilate the small remains
of the ancient people, which had been left in its huts and caves.
All was then abandoned to the waste; and, until the Russians
A A 2
180 A CHAPPOW, OR FORAY.
drive the Turks further to the south and west, and extend their
empire to the foot of Ararat, these districts, being little better
than a border-land, or a high-road through which the several
Asiatic powers pass in open war, or marauding hostility, it must
continue the resort of banditti, and a frightful wilderness. -
On leaving our halting-place, a fuller view of the great plain
of Ararat gradually expanded before us, and the mountain itself
began to tower in all its majesty to the very canopy of heaven.
It bore south-east from the line of our caravansary. We now
took a descending position, due east, over a stoney and difficult
road; which carried us, for more than ten wersts, through several
close and rocky defiles, and over as many frozen streams, till
we reached a small Mahometan village on the side of the Moss-
chian hills. We halted there for the night; and, for the first
time, I slept under the roof of a Mussulman. My goodly escort
had already made themselves acquainted with the substance of
the honest people; for, in our way to the village, some of
them spied a flock of sheep, with their shepherd, at a little dis-
tance on the plain, and, starting away, scoured off immediately
towards them. Not guessing their intentions, I supposed they
were aware of the approach of some hostile band,and were
charging to meet them. My surprise, therefore, was rather
excited, when I saw them plunge into the mass of the flock, the
shepherd run for his life, and in a few minutes the troop return
with their spoil; two or three sheep, with their throats cut,
which were soon skinned, dressed, and eaten. This was nothing
more, in their opinions, than a mere exercise of their horses;
a chappow, (or foray,) as much their right as the air they breathe;
and as little to be complained against by the owner of the sheep,
as the gathering of a few turnips, in a neighbour's field, might
PLAIN OF ARARAT. 181
be by some of us; though it, certainly, was something new to
an Englishman of the 19th century, to find himself thus at the
head of a band with such habits. -
On the morning of the 17th November (O.S.), we left our
hospitable Mussulmans : for, whether they were so inclined, or
over-awed by the fierce looks and glittering arms of my attendants,
I will not pretend to say, but I had no reason to complain of
their want of civility. We set forth over a road as bad as that
of the day before, in a direction south-east, and gradually
descending from a great height, through a very extended sloping
country, towards the immense plain of Ararat. In our way we
passed the relics of a considerable town, called Talish. A little
farther, we saw the ruins of what had been a fine caravansary,
on the side of a mountain stream ; and, from amidst the moul-
dering walls, we observed a few half-starved wretches creeping to
the air, as if that were their only aliment. Indeed, sterility seemed
to have been the curse of this immediate spot. Not a trace
of verdure was discoverable on the ground; all parts were covered
with volcanic stones, or rather masses of cinders, as if thrown
from an iron-forge, black, heavy, and honey-combed. Lower
down, upon this long declivity, rises a mound of earth and rock,
which, in any neighbourhood but that of Ararat, would be called
a mountain. Here, it appears scarcely a hill. Its form and
substance are evidently those of an extinguished volcano; but
in what ages it has been at work, we have not means to guess;
no authors of established verity, ancient or modern, having said
one word of any known volcanic eruption in the regions of
Ararat. Besides the cinders above-mentioned, I observed in
several places, during our downward march, large portions of
182 ARARAT.
rock, of a soft red stone, bearing likewise the marks of cal-
cination. * * -
As the vale opened beneath us in our descent, my whole atten-
tion became absorbed in the view before me. A vast plain,
peopled with countless villages; the towers and spires of the
churches of Eitch-mai-adzen, arising from amidst them; the glit-
tering waters of the Araxes, flowing through the fresh green of
the vale; and the subordinate range of mountains skirting the
base of the awful monument of the antediluvian world. It seemed
to stand, a stupendous link in the history of man, uniting the two
races of men before and after the flood. But it was not until
we had arrived upon the flat plain, that I beheld Ararat in all
it appeared as if the hugest mountains of the world, had been
piled upon each other to form this one sublime immensity of
earth, and rock, and snow. The icy peaks of its double heads
rose majestically into the clear and cloudless heavens; the
sun blazed bright upon them ; and the reflection sent forth a
dazzling radiance, equal to other suns. This point of the view
united the utmost grandeur of plain and height. But the
feelings I experienced, while looking on the mountain, are .
hardly to be described. My eye, not able to rest for any length
of time upon the blinding glory of its summits, wandered down
the apparently interminable sides, till I could no longer trace
their vast lines in the mists of the horizon; when an irrepres-
sible impulse, immediately carrying my eye upwards again,
refixed my gaze upon the awful glare of Ararat; and this
bewildered sensibility of sight being answered by a similar feel-
ing in the mind, for some moments I was lost in a strange
suspension of the powers of thought.
ARARAT. - 183
Agridagh is the name given to this sublime mountain by the
Turks; and the Armenians call it Macis : but all unite in rever-
ing it as the haven of the great ship which preserved the father
of mankind from the waters of the deluge. The height of
JArarat, has never yet been measured with any satisfactory
degree of accuracy; though Captain Monteith, of the Madras
Engineers, has gone nearer to the mark, perhaps, than any
other traveller. The following are the results of several trigo-
nomical observations, which he made at Erivan, and was So kind
as to communicate to me. From that place, to the highest
point of the loftiest head, he found fifty-two thousand yards;
and from the same spot, to the minor head, fifty-five thousand
yards. This head (which is distinguished by the appellation,
Little Ararat, while the higher part is called Great Ararat) is
distant from the other, from peak to peak, twelve thousand
yards. Little Ararat bearing from Great Ararat, S. 60 E.
Great Ararat bears from the monastery of Eitch-mai-adzen,
S. 5 W. ; and Little Ararat, S.6 E. .
These inaccessible summits have never been trodden by the
foot of man since the days of Noah, if even then ; for my idea
is, that the ark rested in the space between these heads, and not
on the top of either. Various attempts have been made, in
different ages, to ascend these tremendous mountain-pyramids,
but in vain. Their form, snows, and glaciers, are insurmount-
able obstacles: the distance being so great, from the commence-
ment of the icy region, to the highest points, cold alone would
be the destruction of any person who should have the hardihood to
persevere. On viewing mount Ararat from the northern side of
the plain, its two heads are separated by a wide cleft, or rather
glen, in the body of the mountain. The rocky side of the
184 ARARAT.
greater head runs almost perpendicularly down to the north-east,
while the lesser head rises from the sloping bosom of the cleft,
in a perfectly conical shape. Both heads are covered with snow.
The form of the greater is similar to the less, only broader and
rounder at the top; and shows, to the north-west, a broken and
abrupt front; opening, about half-way down, into a stupendous
chasm, deep, rocky, and peculiarly black. At that part of the
mountain, the hollow of the chasm receives an interruption from
the projections of minor mountains, which start from the sides
of Ararat, like branches from the root of a tree, and run along
in undulating progression, till lost in the distant vapours of the
plain.
The dark chasm which I have mentioned as being in the side
of the great head of the mountain, is supposed, by some
travellers, to have been the exhausted crater of Ararat. Dr.
Reniggs even affirms it, by stating, that, in the year 1783,
during certain days in the month of January and February, an
eruption took place in that mountain ; and he suggests the pro-
bability of the burning ashes, ejected thence at that time, reaching
to the southern side of the Caucasus, (a distance, in a direct line,
of two hundred and twenty wersts ;) and so depositing the
volcanic productions which are found there. The reason he
gives for this latter supposition is, that the trapp seen there did
not originate in those mountains, and must, consequently, have
been sent thither by volcanic explosions elsewhere. And that
this elsewhere, which he concludes to be Ararat, may have been
that mountain, I do not pretend to dispute; but those events
must have taken place many centuries ago, even before history
took note of the spot ; for, since that period, we have no
intimation whatever, of any part of Ararat having been seen in
ARARAT. 185
a burning state. This part of Asia was well known to the
ancient historians, from being the seat of certain wars they
describe; and it cannot be supposed, that had so conspicuous a
mountain been often, or ever (within the knowledge of man),
in a state of volcanic eruption, we should not have heard of it,
from Strabo, Pliny, Ptolemy, or others; but on the contrary,
all these writers are silent on such a subject with regard to
Ararat; while every one who wrote in the vicinities of Etna,
or of Vesuvius, had something to say of the thunders and molten
fires of those mountains. That there are volcanic remains, to
a vast extent, around Ararat, every person who visits its neigh-
bourhood must testify; and, giving credit to Doctor Renigg's
assertion, that an explosion of the mountain had happened in his
time, I determined to support so interesting a fact, with the -
evidence of every observation on my part, when I should reach
the spot. But on arriving at the monastery of Eitch-mai-adzen,
where my remarks must chiefly be made, and discoursing with
the fathers on the idea of Ararat having been a volcano, I found
that a register of the general appearances of the mountain, had
been regularly kept by their predecessors and themselves, for
upwards of eight hundred years; and that nothing of an erup-
tion, or any thing tending to such an event, was to be found in
any one of those notices. When I spoke of an explosion of the
mountain having taken place in the year 1783, and which had
been made known to Europe, by a traveller declaring himself
to have been an eye-witness, they were all in surprise; and,
besides the written documents to the contrary, I was assured by
several of the holy brethren, who had been resident in the plain
for upwards of forty years, that during the whole of that period
they had never seen even a smoke from the mountain. There-
VOL. I. B B
186 MONASTERY OF EITCH-MAI-ADZEN.
fore, how the author in question fell into so very erroneous a
mis-statement, I can form no guess. -
I had reached the monastery, about three o’clock, P. M., it
being about twenty wersts from our Turkish lodging of the
might before. Having had letters for the Patriarch, from the
Armenian bishop at Tiflis, I was prepared for a polite reception;
but that I received was the kindest possible. From the mo-
ment of my entering the walls, I ceased to be a stranger, and
might have commanded, as in my own home, had orders from
myself been necessary for the comfortable adjustment of my
party. But every thing was anticipated ; and I had only to
enjoy my own good quarters, after a fatiguing march of eight
days; with the additional zest, afforded by the society of the intel-
ligent, and amiable brotherhood of the Three Churches: Eitch-
mai-adzen, or Utchkilissia, which latter appellation means the
Three Churches, being the names of this extensive establishment.
The patriarch Epheme is a venerable man, about seventy
years of age; but unimpaired health, and a serene countenance,
give him a much younger appearance. He has a high reput-
ation for learning and piety; and enhances the value of both, by
much of the useful sort of knowledge which can only be gained in
the world at large. He has travelled over the chief countries of
Asia; and passed some time at Calcutta, during the government
of Earl Cornwallis. The situation he fills, is that of head over
all the religious institutions of the Armenian church, in whatever
parts of the globe they may be found. He is elected by a con-
vocation of monks from the different monasteries: their assem-
bly is called the Synod of Cardinals; and they select the
demanded patriarch, from amongst the most venerated bishops
of the church. He holds this supreme dignity, till death, the
MONASTERY OF EITCH-MAI-ADZEN. 187
intrigues of envy, or his own misconduct, displaces him: the
two latter modes of translation, I trust, seldom happen. The
monastery of Eitch-mai-adzen was founded, A. D. 304., by
St. Gregory, as, likewise, were the churches in its vicinity. But
the monastery, in particular, was established on the very spot,
where, it is said, he had a vision of our Saviour's presence, and
held with him a divine discourse. The excited zeal of the saint,
in consequence, extended the knowledge of Christianity all over
Armenia; and as guardian of its numerous churches, he soon
became a sort of episcopal sovereign. Eitch-mai-adzen is now
the sole habitable remains of an enormous city, called Valarsapat,
which, in old times, surrounded this great metropolitan establish-
ment, for many miles. Vestiges of its magnitude may yet be
traced in various spots, at a considerable distance from the con-
vent, and particularly towards the north-east; but round its
immediate walls, a few low mud-houses are all the neighbour-
hood we find; and they are the residences of a little remnant of
poor Armenian Christians, who, under the protection of the
holy towers, or, more likely, that of their own unpretending
appearance, live a life of humble industry and content. Their
children are educated in a school established by the church, and
attended by one of the order. _*
The morning after my arrival, His Eminence the Patriarch
ordered his secretary to attend me to see the cathedral, which
has been accurately described by Chardin. The architecture
is of a rude character, when compared with even the roughest
styles of Gothic churches that may be seen in England. A
three-arched gateway, surmounted by a heavy and pointed
tower, leads to the main door. Much labour, in the shape of
fretted and carved ornaments, in a bad taste, has been wasted on
B B 2
188 MONASTERY OF EITCH-MAI-ADZEN.
this ponderous vestibule, which is evidently of a later date than
the cathedral itself. On entering the sacred building, I found
it exceedingly dark and gloomy; with ill-drawn, and worse-
coloured, legends of saints painted on the walls; black transcripts
of devout Armenian sentences; and dingy fresco, in imitation
of arabesque decorations: all adding to the gloom, without in-
creasing the solemnity.
The altar still blazed with gold and jewels; although, some
twenty years ago, great part of its riches was purloined by one
of the brethren; whose previous misconduct, in other respects,
had been charitably borne with for some time, under the hope
of penitence and amendment; but he completed his train of
errors by the crimes of murder and sacrilege. Finding it neces-
sary to remove out of his way more than one individual, before
he could get possession of the treasure in the sacristy, he did it
by poison; and having accomplished his object, the holy vessels
were secretly dispatched to Astrachan, and sold. But the theft
and the perpetrator being immediately discovered, he was con-
signed to a punishment, worthy the wisdom and mercy of his
judges: to be immured for life in a solitary cell. If ever repent-
ance be to visit a hardened wretch, it certainly must be in such
a situation; where, for years, he has no other companion than
his own conscience, and the recollections of a religion he had so
obstinately despised. This man is now very old; and was still
alive in his confinement when I was at the monastery. The
holy relics, being no longer profitable merchandise, remained
untouched; and they exist much in the same state as when
Chardin described them : he gives the catalogue so minutely, I
need not repeat it here; and shall notice two or three only of
the most celebrated. The stone on which Saint Gregory sat, or,
THE HOLY SPEAR. 189
perhaps, more properly slept, during his celestial vision; and the
spear-head, with which the soldier pierced the side of our Lord.
The known antiquity of this weapon renders it an object of
some interest, without any reference to its alleged sanctity; for
were there no other reasons against the latter pretension, the
total improbability, would be sufficient, of the early Christians
finding any consolation in collecting from the murderers of their
Divine Master, the instruments of his sufferings; and if the dis-
ciples did not appropriate these reputed relics at that time, in
the natural course of disuse and change they would be cast aside,
and no more heard of. Yet old authors having affixed historical,
as well as ideal, legends, to these things; and some of them
being yet preserved, even through the course of so many cen-
turies, we cannot but feel interest in their curious details, and
the associations connected with them. For however false may
be the pretensions of certain pieces of wood, to having been the
cross of Calvary; or of the crown of thorns, or the spear-head, to
their similar assumptions; still, when we look on them, we know
them to have been the very supposed-relics, which were the
objects of veneration to a train of heroes, and elevated on
standards, were often carried before the greatest characters of
the crusades, as the insignia of their faith and promised vic-
tories. But with regard to the identity of the spear of Pilate's
soldier, these ancient writers are not at all agreed; for they give
us notice of a weapon, claiming that distinction, being in two, if
not in three places, at the same time. In the eleventh century,
they tell us, the real spear-head was dug up at Antioch; and,
after gaining a memorable battle before that city, for the re-
nowned Raymond of Thoulouse, remained in the possession of
that hero. Two hundred years after, we hear of another Spear-
190 ſº RELICS.
head, which had been for ages in the possession of the emperors
of Constantinople, and was sold by Baldwin II. as the true wea-
pon to St. Louis, and so dispatched to France. But to our
further astonishment, though such a relic was actually sent,
and seen at Paris, another author virtually denies the facts, by
asserting the presence of the holy spear at Constantinople, after
the period of its alleged journey to the west. Besides the
testimony of graver writers on these mysterious subjects, Sir
John Maundeville may not be a very improper authority to
quote in the case of a legend; and in his right-wonderful
account of his Asiatic Travels, between the years 1322 and
1371, he speaks of the holy spear being in France in his time,
in these words: —
“ A partie of the crowne of oure lord, where—with he was
crowned, and one of the nayles, and the spere-head, and many
other relikes, be in France, in the kinges chapelle. For a king
of France boughte theise relikes sometyme of the Jewes, to
whom the Emperour Baldwin had leyde hem to wedde, for a
grete summe of sylore.” But he adds, in another page, –
“ And the spere schaft hathe the Emperor of Almayne; but
the heed is at Parys. And matheless, the Emperor of Constan-
tynople scythe that he hathe the spere-heed; and I have often-
tyme seen it, but it is grettere than that at Parys.”
With regard to the spear-head that is preserved at Eitch-
mai-adzen, I could gather little of the particulars of its descent
from past times to the present; the persons who have it in
charge being delicate of communicating on the subject with
strangers; but, as Armenia used to be included by the emperors
of Constantinople, within the pale of their empire, it is not
unlikely, that on the subversion of that state and capital by the
SEASONS NEAR ARARAT. 191
Turks, the holy deposits of its temples would be dispatched to
the safe-keeping of the remoter walls of Eitch-mai-adzen. The
spear-head which they show here, is very large, and has a
Greek cross cut in its centre; a testimony that may be received
of its former lodging at Constantinople, but a direct contra-
diction to the pretended evidence of its having belonged to a
heathen soldier: so much for transmitted relics. But one is
also produced, which might have been expected as the growth
of the place itself. A fragment of the ark, which had havened
in the mountain under whose shadow this venerable monastery
has continued for so many centuries in perfect safety. The cir-
cumstances which brought the relic into the possession of the
fathers is thus related: — Many hundred years ago, a certain
pious monk of the order undertook the hitherto unattempted
task, of ascending to the top of the mountain, to find the
remains of the sacred vessel, and to bring away some part of it,
to receive a due shrine in the church at the foot of Ararat.
But ere he had gone far over the snows of the last terrible
regions of ice and cold, he fell asleep, and an angel appearing
to him in a vision, told him, that beyond such a point no
mortal, since the descent of Noah, was permitted to pass; but
that in reward to the singular piety of the convent, a heavenly
messenger had been commanded to bring to this, its devout
brother, a plank of the holy ship ; which at his awaking he
would find at his side. When the monk arose, he found it
was as the angel had said, and the remainder of the long story
may easily be guessed at. -
Notwithstanding the time of the year, I found the weather at
this place mild and delightful. Every object bore the appear-
ance of spring, rather than of the approach of winter. The air
192 BUFFALOES.
was clear, the sky cloudless; so that the whole panorama of
mountains was visible; and with a beauty, and a splendour,
which spread them in one part with the softest roseate hues,
in others flooded them with gold, or hung over their aerial
brows a glittering veil of silver. As the sun set, or the sun rose,
all this mighty magic of ethereal colours, passed on or off in
his train. But in the midst of every change, still Ararat stood
alone, unparalleled in majesty, and robed in every light of
heaven. Absolute winter does not take place here till January,
and then it is not uncommon to have the cold from 16 to 18
degrees of Reaumur. Little snow falls on the plain. The rainy
season follows in the months of March and April, and imme-
diately after, comes the summer, rich, balmy, and serene; the
heat of which, though intense during some of its months, is never
so oppressive as at Erivan.
... Here, for the first time, I saw a caravan of camels. They
were crossing the plain, and their form and groups, with their
bearded drivers, being so peculiar to Asia, completed the
picture to my eye. There was nothing in view that could
remind me of Europe, excepting the sublime mount itself,
which recalled the scenes where I had first read of its existence,
and imbibed a veneration for its name. The peasantry of the
plain, use buffaloes for all the purposes of agriculture to which
we apply the steer or the horse. They are of a larger species
than those of Georgia, very patient of toil, and strong in its
exercise. Towards sun-set, while I was standing in the gate of
the monastery, I had an opportunity of observing the care that
is taken of these useful animals, by being spectator to the
operation of washing them. These purifications prevent a
cutaneous disease, to which the creature when neglected is
BUFFALOES. 193
very subject; the ablution, therefore, is frequently repeated
during the hot weather; and the effects sufficiently prove how
essential, even in brutes, cleanliness is to health. The cere-
mony was performed in a running stream, in the midst of which
the cattle were quietly standing, whilst two or three persons
were throwing the water on them by means of hollow wooden
shovels. When the animals were thoroughly wetted, each man
took a good-sized rough stone in his hand, with which he and
his companions scrubbed them in succession in every part of
their bodies. The buffaloes seemed highly delighted with this
part of the operation; for they sniffed and snorted, and stood
immoveable, as if made of marble. The skin, which relishes
so well this rugged kind of currycomb, is something of the
colour and texture of our black hogs, with rather more of the
rough hide of the elephant. On the whole, they are a very
hideous-looking animal, but perfectly tractable and obedient,
excepting in hot weather when fording a river, and then the
cool element is so grateful, they frequently stop in the midst,
and nothing can move them for hours. Their strange appear-
ance, when caparisoned to be ridden, and that of the wild
shaggy figures of the natives who mount them, form a sort of
savage troop, of an aspect perhaps more uncouth than
terrible. It might recall the wild imagery of Spenser's Faery
Queene, when describing one of the “beastlie” groups issuing
from some enchanted forest in his allegorical tale.
If I may judge of the general plenty on the plain of Ararat,
by the hospitality myself and my party enjoyed within the walls
of its monastery, every necessary of life is there in abundance ;
even luxuries were not spared, during the three days I had the
honour of passing with its patriarch ; and he told me, the
vol. 1. C C
194 DEPARTURE FROM EITCH-MAI-ADZEN.
country around abounds in game, free to every man's gun ;
while the lake of Erivan (a fine expanse of water, not far
distant to the north-east) furnishes them with excellent trout,
carp, barbel, and other fish. e -
After taking leave of my venerable host, and the friendly
brethren of Eitch-mai-adzen, I turned my course due east,
towards the province of Erivan, one of the most fertile districts
of the Persian empire. My road lay over the plain, having a
fine view of the windings of the Araxes on the right: Ararat
bore due south; the lesser head south-east. For several wersts,
the country continued rich and well-cultivated. At one part,
we passed a small picturesque convent, an appendage to the
patriarchal seat of Eitch-mai-adzen, and was there shown the
gardens and vineyards, which supply the whole fraternity with
fruits and wine. On setting forth, an ample store of the latter
had been lodged on the backs of my cattle by the patriarch's
orders; and, in consequence, so long as it lasted during my journey,
I could not taste its refreshment without some grateful remem-
brance of the fair and bounteous plains of Ararat. Turning
our backs on all this verdure, and generous fare, we began
an ascent, which gradually left all fertility behind us; tra-
velling over an arid high country, covered with fragments
of rocks and stones, of the same nature with those which had
strewed the road in our descent to the plain. Here I could
not but think, how much more would have been in character
this rugged scene with my late wild escort, than the rural
objects and occupations, amongst which I had seen them grouped
at Eitch-mai-adzen. Such men would rather gather grapes at
the point of their kanjar, or sickle corn with their swords, than
sit down at the most sumptuous orderly board in Christendom.
ERIVAN. - 195
Like our own keen huntsmen, no food is so sweet to their
palate, as that which themselves have run down. Being within
the Persian frontier, and having only twenty wersts to travel
from the monastery to the capital of Erivan, I had dismissed
these heroes at Eitch-mai-adzen ; not, however, without a due
reward for their service, and a message of thanks to the Rus-
sian commandant at Goumri.
Proceeding with no other guard than my own personal
servants, for in this immediate district banditti are now never
heard of, I journeyed quietly on ; with nothing to disturb my
attention, from observing the ever-changing effects of light and
shade on the heights and depths of Ararat, (which mountain
bore due south at our side,) as the day waned, and we drew
towards Erivan. -
Erivan has been a province of Persia, ever since the conquests
of Nadir Shah. It once formed a part of the kingdom of
Armenia ; and, hence, its native inhabitants are commonly
called Armenians. To the north, and to the eastward as far as
Karadagh, it bounds the present line of frontier occupied by
the Russians; and is governed by a Persian nobleman, having
the title of Sardar, which means General. He resides in the
capital city, which bears the same name with the province. I
arrived there just before sun-set, on the evening of November
21st, (O.S.) It lies in latitude 40° 9.30”; and is situated in an
angle of a great plain, at the foot of the Mossian hills. Like
most of the ancient cities in this part of the world, its origin is
obscured by the clouds of time. But in consequence of its
proximity to Ararat, it shares the claims of others in the same
vicinity, to having been founded by the antediluvian patriarch.
Such may have been its high descent; but I am rather inclined
C C 2
196 ERIVAN.
to give it a shorter pedigree, and to suppose from its present
name, that it owes its dignity as a city to one of the Ar-
menian kings, called Ervandus, who lived sixty-five years before
the Christian era; and who in all probability gave his name
to the province, and founded the city. The country possesses
every natural beauty which a fine assemblage of mountain, vale,
and water can bestow; and the town of Erivan shares all these
advantages in an ample degree. The river Zengay, which flows
originally from the great lake of the province, appears only a
narrow, though rapid stream, near the city; but after being
augmented by several minor rivers, it occupies a more consider-
able channel, and winds away in a south-east direction through
a long rocky chasm ; whence it issues on the plain, and
continues in a serpentine course till it joins the Araxes, nearly
opposite to Ararat, and at about twenty miles from the town of
Erivan. Another smaller river called the Querk-boolak, which
also has its source in the great lake, runs thence to the north- -
east; but on arriving at the city, it is soon totally lost, by being
divided into numberless little canals, to supply the streets with
water, to irrigate the surrounding gardens, and to fill any other
office by which that element may be either used or wasted.
The city of Erivan bears no exception to the other places of
the same quality which I had visited in my way from Wlady
Caucasus to this point; ruins mingle every where with the
habitable parts of the town. It is of considerable extent; with
open spaces, as well as the lost-ground of old mouldering
buildings, within its modern circuit. Part of it covers the hill
of Chool Mitchy, which was the particular site of the more
ancient city; and from its commanding one of the most ex-
panded views of Ararat, from that spot I made the sketch
ERIVAN. 197
which will appear in my second volume. The fortress, described
by Chardin, spreads over a great deal of ground. It is fortified
in the mixed ancient and modern Asiatic manner, and has
lately been strengthened by European engineers. But nothing
can render it a station of importance; since it is commanded
on every side by hills, at scarcely six hundred yards distance.
The front, to the north-west, is on the summit of a perpendicular
rock seventy feet deep, at the foot of which flows the Zengay;
forming by its waters a natural fosse, which in old times
must have been a great protection. Nothing can exceed the
grandeur of these bulwarks of nature, which so frequently
present themselves around fortified places, in these precipitous
countries ; – their vastness, simplicity, and impregnable ap-
pearance, being far beyond the powers of man to imitate.
Indeed, to any eye that does not look up to the superior heights
which command the citadel of Erivan, the steepness of the huge
battlement of rock on which it stands, would seem to set all
impressions from without at defiance. The walls themselves, with
their numerous towers, embrace a line of defence exceeding tWO
thousand yards. Just beyond their limits on one side, a fine
stone bridge crosses the river; and, I cannot but say, it was the
only object in the town that did not appear in a state of ruin
or decay. Erivan has so often changed its masters, and as often
been the scene of devastation, plunder, and massacre, that we
cannot be surprised to find its ancient magnificence reduced to
poverty; and the population it boasted before these sanguinary
invasions, become a 'scanty, spiritless remnant. Indeed, so is
its consequence fallen, we might rather consider it a mere
frontier-fortress, than give it the pretensions annexed to the
capital of a great province. I am told, the number of its
present inhabitants does not exceed 15,000 persons.
198 ERIVAN.
Being curious to examine the very singular old tower,
which Chardin took so much pains to describe, and to
draw, I went to an Armenian monk, (to whose civilities I
had been introduced by my kind friends at Eitch-mai-adzen,)
to request his good offices in directing me to the spot. He
informed me, the foundation alone was all that now, re-
mained. Some years ago, the tower had been struck by
lightning; and, being greatly damaged, it was pulled down and
the materials appropriated to repairs in the town. In the
course of our conversation, he gave me much interesting inform-
ation respecting the many fine monuments of antiquity which
cover the plains and valleys of Ararat, to an immense extent
around the base of that stupendous mountain. It is here in-
deed, that we find ourselves touching the earliest ages of the
world. The dates of some of our most ancient cities in Europe,
appear but of yesterday, when compared with the ages which
have passed over the mighty ruins, which still exist in these
primeval countries. My intelligent informant told me, that
Erivan was supposed to be about seventy wersts, (or forty-three
miles,) from the foot of Ararat; and that the remains of many
noble cities, some as old as Erivan, and others whose origins
were beyond all trace, were scattered all along the banks of the
Araxes. Amongst the number, he named the ruins of Ardashir,
and Kara Kala; which are, the Artaxata, and Armavra of the
Greek and Roman historians. Ardashir, or Artaxata, lies on
the north-east side of the river, a short march on the way to
Nachivan. While Kara Kala, or Armavra, at about fifty wersts
west of Eitch-mai-adzen, spreads itself over the south-western
bank; showing the remains of walls and towers of the finest
masonry, and the ruins of a noble bridge. A few families, of
ERIVAN. - 199
the poorest order of people, are now the sole occupants of this
once-famous city. The first of these interesting places, I deter-
mined on visiting; as it did not lie far from the road I should
take on leaving Erivan. The lake of the province, may also
be regarded as a less perishable memorial of the celebrated times
of antiquity; for we can hardly doubt that it is the Palus Lych-
nites of Ptolemy. It now bears the name of the province, or is
called the lake of Sevan. Its farthest, or north-western extre-
mity, (whence issues the Zengay river,) lies about six wersts
north-east of the town. Its circumference is within thirty
miles, the banks of the lake being almost entirely surrounded
by mountains, which shelve down into the vast rocky basin that
contains it. The waters are clear, with a peculiarly blue cast;
are extremely heavy, and abound in several varieties of fine fish.
At the northern end of the lake, a small romantic island is seen
not far from the shore. It is surmounted with a venerable old
building, the residence of twenty monks of the Armenian
church.
Erivan being the first place of authority, at which I had
arrived since I passed the frontiers into Persian jurisdiction;
and, as I had dispatched my Goumri escort on finding myself
beyond the Turkish lines; it was necessary I should apply to the
governor of this province, for the usual facilities in undertaking
a journey to Tabreez. With this view, soon after my arrival I
sent to the Sardar, to know at what time I might have the
honour of waiting upon him. The following morning was
named; and I did not fail at the appointed hour. A person
was sent to conduct me; and mounting my horse, I followed
my guide through a variety of narrow wretched streets, till we
arrived at the fortress; where, on passing the gates, I saw no
200 THE SARDAR OF ERIVAN.
appearance of a guard, nor of any thing indicating a garrison.
The embrasures in the bastions, which flanked a double entrance,
were filled up with straw. My conductor then led me through
several bye-alleys to the quarter which I understood was the
governor's palace. I dismounted at the entrance, and was
ushered along two square courts; whence, passing through a very
small door-way, I ascended a few ruinous steps, crowded with
natives, whose dingy aspects agreed better with the dilapidated
state of the mansion, than with the rank of its present resident.
One of these men raised a curtain with his hand, under which,
it was intimated I must pass; and, having done so, I found myself
in the presence of the Sardar.
He was seated on a carpet, close to a window at the upper end
of the room. Opposite to him, sat his brother, a Persian Khan.
A chair had been prepared for me; and after pronouncing the
usual salutation of Hoche omedi, or welcome, the Sardar made
a sign to me to sit down. Several minutes elapsed before the
person made his appearange who was to act as an interpreter;
and, meanwhile, I had leisure to observe my host. He seemed
to be about seventy; with a sensible, and energetic countenance;
and a frame, sufficiently strong and vigorous, to promise active
service for many years to come. His eye is vivid and quick,
his complexion sallow, and his beard large, though not long,
kept perfectly black; which ungrisled hue, and comparative
shortness, tend not a little to the preservation of the look of
prime manhood. A hoary, and lengthened beard, while it
- stamps age with a peculiar air of grave dignity, also gives im-
pressions of the decay of manly vigour. But years appear to
have failed in abstracting any thing from the mind or body of
the Sardar. His character for enterprise, and steady bravery, is
ERIVAN. 201
well-known. During the different wars, of late, between Persia
and Russia, he has repeatedly manifested his powers as an able
general; and, indeed, it is partly owing to his conduct, that the
Great King's territories were not bounded, by his northern
adversary, too far within the line of the Araxes. While reflect-
ing on the character of the man that was before me, so varied
in its features, and powerful in all, I sometimes turned my eyes,
from our rather awkward silent gaze at each other, towards the
window, and found fresh subjects for meditation in the objects it
presented. Beneath, was the dreadful ditch of punishment, the
Tarpeian rock of Erivan beyond, the luxuriant gardens of the
Sardar, with their summer-house; and, over them, towered the
magnificent heights, which might either over-awe, or protect his
government.
When the interpreter arrived, I found the medium language
was to be Russian, as the linguist could speak only that
and his own. And, through this channel, I soon made known
to the Sardar, the object of my visit; and received from him
every gratifying assurance in his power. He promised to send
me a mehmandar immediately, and to give orders for all faci-
lities in my journey. This business being adjusted, we entered
into general conversation ; which was borne, on his part, with
considerable vivacity and acuteness. Military subjects appeared
to have the greatest interest with him; and when I spoke of the
fine troops of the Emperor Alexander, his face kindled, and he
observed, they were not superior to the newly organised Persian
troops at Azerbijan. The kalioun, or pipe for smoking, had
been presented at my entrance; after which, tea, in small cups,
was served ; then a second kalioun ; and that paid due honour
to, I took my leave.
WOL. I. HD D
202 - t ERIVAN.
The Sardar's government differs from most others in the
empire, inasmuch as that he pays no revenue to the king :
holding his station by a kind of military tenure; being obliged,
in times of war or disturbance, to furnish the royal army with a
certain number of troops. To him is also entrusted the defence
and security of the whole of the frontier within the limits of the
province of Erivan, to be maintained solely at his own expense.
In short, he might rather be styled the Prince of Erivan, than its
mere delegated governor; for he is looked up to by the natives,
with the homage of subjects; and in his domestic arrangements
he has assumed appendages which belong to royalty alone. His
wives travel clothed in scarlet; a superb sort of raiment, not
permitted in Persia to any women but those of the family of the
King, or of his sons. He has, also, the privilege of covering
the baggage carried by his mules, with highly-ornamented cloths
of blue or red, which are badges of royal equipage. His col-
lected riches are immense; and he possesses landed property in
many provinces, but particularly in that of Ghilan, where he
OWIlS several villages. The districts of the province of Erivan,
over which he has unlimited sway, are, Gookchah, Sevan,
Gurney, Aberan, Kerpay, Zirzadill, Sharagill, Sherroor, Ma-
koo, Saut. Its length embraces a distance of nearly 200 miles;
its breadth, 100. In 1814, a general census was taken of
the people capable of bearing arms, which amounted to
18,000. The revenue of the province is about 150,000 tomauns,
and that does not include the receipts from the district of Makoo.
A tomaun, which is the current gold coin of Persia, is of very
pure metal, and in value may be equal to our half-guinea.
I had hardly returned to my quarters, when the mehmandar
arrived, who was to be the comptroller of my travelling household,
ARDASHIR. 203
to as far as the limits of the Sardar's power would allow obe-
dience to his commands. This person bore an order from his
chief, according to which I was to be furnished with mules,
lodgings, provisions, and every other accommodation I might
require, in all the towns and villages within his jurisdiction.
This was a fair welcome to Persia; and I enquired for the escort,
which, en train, must have been appointed. But my mehmandar
informed me, with a smile, and look of satisfaction, that none were
now needed, in almost any part of the Persian dominions; for,
since the accession of the present monarch, such a course had
been taken with the old banditti, and whatever new bands had been
desperate enough to attempt similar depredations, that hardly a
robber, or even a thief, dared show his head within reach of the
Great King's justice. If this were true, it was, certainly, very
agreeable intelligence; and, at least, giving the information
credit till it should be contradicted by fact, I was glad to make
arrangements for the further prosecution of my journey, without
the incumbrance of the half-savage guards, which had been for
so many weeks necessary to any probability of my personal
safety. Certainly, from Eitch-mai-adzen, (where, being in the
Persian dominions, my last troop had no longer authority to
remain, and I therefore dismissed it,) all the way to Erivan, I
had found the road perfectly free from any shadow of mo-
lestation. -
At 9 o'clock in the morning of November 23d (O.S.), I set
forth again, accompanied by my Persian provider, (that being
the real import of the name mehmandar;) having previously in-
timated to him my wish to take the old city of Ardashir in our
way. I was glad to find it lay in the direct road; and, accord-
ingly, on leaving Erivan, we turned our faces to the south-east,
D D 2
204 ARDASHIR.
riding over a high and stoney country, with the plain on our right.
After three hours' steady course along this upland road, we began
to descend the hill; and another hour brought us within sight of
the widely-spread ruins of one of the greatest cities of ancient
Armenia. Ardashir, like many other cities of that once mag-
nificent country, has boasted the title of being its capital. But,
in whatever variety of places the sovereign found it convenient
to maintain his state for any time, those cities severally assumed
the rank of metropolis. And that, in so comparatively a limited
extent of territory, there should be found so many of these rival
capitals, the extent and grandeur of any one of which might
well claim the exclusive distinction to which they all pretend,
cannot but be an object of admiration to the traveller of our
times, who generally sees the one great capital of a modern
kingdom, sufficiently demonstrating its claims to honour, by its
superiority in every respect, over all the other cities of the
land. X A
On reaching the remains of Ardashir, I saw the earth covered
to an immense extent, and on every side, with that sort of
irregular hillocks, which are formed by time over piles of ruins.
These, with long dyke-like ridges, evidently of the same ve-
nerable architect and materials, connecting them in parts, told
me at once, I was entering the confines of a city, now no more.
It is not in language to describe the effect on the mind, in vi-
siting one of these places. The space, over which the eye wan-
ders, all marked with memorials of the past; but where no
pillar, nor dome, nor household wall of any kind, however
fallen, yet remain to give a feeling of some present existence
of the place, even by a progress in decay; all, here, is finished;
buried under heaps of earth; the graves, not of the people
ARDASHIR. 205
alone, but of their houses, temples, palaces; all lying in death-
like entombment. At Anni, I found myself surrounded by a
superb monument of Armenian greatness; at Ardashir, I stood
over its grave. Go where one will, for lessons of time's re-
volutions, the brevity of human life, the nothingness of man's
ambition; they no where can strike upon the heart like a single
glance cast on one of these motionless, life-deserted “ cities of
the silent.” — To the eastward of our entrance, about two miles
from the hills, the ground rose with a considerable natural
elevation ; and along its summits, I observed the vast broken
surface of what must have been a very strong and lofty citadel.
From hence, in a direct line to the west, for full three wersts,
stretched the before-mentioned ranges of uneven hillocks, which
covered the remains of the towers and ramparts of the town.
There were mounds without number within the lines of these
larger masses; and on the surfaces of many I found loose pieces
of burnt brick, stones, and fragments of blue and green tiles.
I searched in vain for any large hewn stones, or more manifest
vestiges of building, in any thing like the shape, or materials,
of a regular architectural structure. In the course of my ride
to the southward, and to the westward, within the apparent
circumference of the city, the closeness of my examination was
rewarded by some more visible signs of what I sought. By
certain hollows and abrupt risings of the ground, I could dis-
tinctly trace where many of the dwellings had stood; and large
portions of the great walls may be discerned in this quarter, of a
prodigious thickness. They are built of sun-dried bricks, which,
even after the lapse of so many ages, have not lost any thing of
the regularity with which they must originally have been put
together. - !
206 ARDASHIR.
A small river, called the Gurney, takes its course through the
dismal solitude of these ruins. How different from the gor-
geous courts, or gay revels, that, in aforetimes, from these now
silent banks, may have been reflected from its stream . This
river takes its rise from four little silver rivulets which issue
from the mountains, to the north-east of the town, and uniting
at a short distance beyond the earth-buried walls, takes a rapid
course along the northern base of the citadel; and winding
round the mounds, which had once been its outworks, turns to
the south ; and, flowing onward, takes its melancholy way by
the trackless heaps of the city; till, issuing at the south-west, it
throws itself into the Araxes, a few miles south of the Zengay.
With my glass, I could plainly perceive the chain of hillocks
which formed the western front of the city; but could not dis-
cern whether there were any more distant fortifications beyond
them. I enquired of my mehmandar, how far he supposed the
Araxes might be from the spot on which we then stood. He
replied, little more than half an hour's ride: hence, I judged it
to be about three miles. But Major Monteith afterwards assured
me, he had found it to be exactly twice that distance. Indeed,
from the observations to be made on one side of the town, it
does not seem improbable that its suburbs, in the opposite di-
rections, might have extended to the shores of that river, which
would make the situation of Ardashir answer, with a great
degree of exactness, to the accounts given of it by many of the
ancient writers, under the name of Artaxata. -
On quitting the remains of Ardashir, my mehmandar informed
me there were several tracts containing other ruins, not far
distant from the present solitary scene; and yet more, amongst
the adjoining mountains. I could not command leisure at this
YENGASHAH. 207
time, to turn further from the main road than I had already
done; but, should I return from my more eastward travels by
this route, I determined to visit the places he mentioned.
Our way lay to the south-east, over a well-cultivated plain,
abounding in populous villages; but towards the close of our
day's march, we had to cross an irregular group of rocky hills;
which rise from the level country, perfectly detached from any
of the mountain-chains around them. The road was not very
smooth; but such paths were bowling-greens to some my good
horse had carried me over; and we jogged cheerily on, till we
reached our proposed quarters, the village of Devaloo; a distance
of thirty miles from the capital of Erivan.
At nine o'clock, next morning, we started over the same sort
of rugged ground, still keeping on to the south-east, for about
four hours; when, arriving at a narrow stoney gorge, in the
branch of this knot of hills which projects westward, while the
rest of the group stretches to the south-east, we passed it; and
continued our way across the plain, till the sun began to decline
over the ridge behind us. This quarter of the level country
was not inferior to that on the other side of the knot of hills, in
the culture of the land, and the number of its villages; at one
of the most considerable of which, we arrived about five o’clock.
We were to lodge there for the night; and my mehmandar
presented his orders for our entertainment. The name of the
place is Yengashah ; and it is six agatches, or forty wersts, from
Devaloo. We found its inhabitants busily engaged in separating
their corn from its straw. The operation was effected by four
or five buffaloes, treading on each spread-out quantity, in a
circular movement; and, so entirely were the people absorbed
in the employment, our firman was not attended to, for three
hours at least. From which rustic indifference to arbitrary
208 * YENGASHAH.
command, little to be expected in any spot under the jurisdiction
of an eastern satrap, we did not get within shelter till the per-
severing husbandmen had no longer light to work.
Rich as these villagers seemed to be in the produce of the
earth, and certainly not deficient in personal industry; it was
difficult to reconcile, with such advantages, the squalid poverty
which every where marked the inside of their houses, and the
appearance of the women. I would not describe the details of
this appearance. Suffice it to say, when coming forth from their
houses, they looked like hideous phantoms, issuing from a
charnel-house; the enveloping chadre (a wrapper of white, or
chequered blue-and-white cotton, which folds them like a wind-
ing-sheet) being usually in as complete a state of decomposition,
as the dropping, loathsome garments it vainly attempts to hide.
The peasant order of females, in this province, being less precise
in the concealment of their faces than the women in the towns,
I had an opportunity of observing the features of many; but did
not see any that could pretend to the smallest degree of pretti-
ness; and those who had passed the immediate blush of youth,
were become mere hags. Indeed, the trite metaphor of the
fleeting flower, when applied to beauty, may be here transferred
to the evanescency of youth; its essentials not bearing the
breath of years in these regions; it buds, blooms, and perishes,
in little more than a revolution of a single sun. The men seem
to be more careful of the state of their apparel than the women;
and hold their good looks by a tenure, apparently as long as that
of most Europeans. It is difficult to account for so very dis-
proportioned a difference between the constitutions and appear-
ances of the sexes, as that which we so constantly meet in this
part of the world; but, with regard to the higher ranks of the
YENGASHAH. 209
women, we may attribute something of their early bloated and
faded aspects, to the excessive use of the bath, and habitual want
of exercise; and we may find some reason for an even more pre-
mature destruction of youth in the lower classes, from their
similar misuse of hot water and vapour, with the addition of
noisome clothing, close unwholesome lodgings, and all the
wretched consequents on both.
I have, just before, given a hint of the miserable interior of
these dwellings; but, when they collect into villages, and are
seen from a distance, they possess an air of space and conse-
quence, which promises the sort of comfort that has never yet
been found within their walls. For, walls they have, and
towers too, of hard-dried clay, inclosing a large square area.
But, when the traveller draws near, he usually discovers these
imposing bulwarks to be in a ruinous condition. Not like the
picturesque old dykes, surrounding some ancient farm-house,
in our own land; and which, long conviction of absolute se-
curity has abandoned to the mouldering hand of time, the
white-thorn, and the ivy. But here, stupid neglect might
seem the sole cause of the dilapidation ; naked, tumbling-down
walls, open to man or beast, just as the appetite for rapine might
move the incursion of either. But the fact is, that a sense of
present safety, under the formidable arm of the Sardar, which
protects them from foreign enemies, and the rigorous measures
against thieves, which clears the roads of banditti, are the real
motives for leaving these village-walls in ruins. The peasantry
of a country must have advanced far in the refinements of life,
before they turn the accidental circumstances of their situation
into objects of taste and ornament. The only trees which we
saw on the plain, were within and around these areas; but they
VOL. I. E. E.
210 KHOIG.
were, generally, fruit-trees, with, here and there, a few vines
crawling over their roots. -
Making my escape from these wretched quarters, at an early
hour next day, we pursued our march, south-east, still over the
plain, which continued in good cultivation for three or four
miles ; but, at that point, it began to rise in gently undulating
hills, covered with so thick a mass of loose stones, no culture
could take place there. When we had passed them, the country
sunk into flat again, which carried us smoothly along its level,
, to the ruins of a once extensive village, called Oujary ; and,
not much farther, to those of a spacious caravansary. Thence,
we ascended a little, to the village of Khoig, where we were
to halt for the night. It was beyond the Sardar's lines, and
stood in a fine. situation, overlooking the plain to the north-
west, and a romantic valley to the south. Mount Ararat,
bearing to the north-west, made a glorious object, as the sun
sunk behind it. Khoig, holding no subjection to the governor
of Erivan, his firman was of so much less use here than at De-
valoo, it did not serve us at all. At the former place, it at last
wrung from the busy husbandmen a due, though delayed
obedience; but at Khoig, his commands had not a shadow of
influence; and the churlish boors persisted to deny us shed, or
refreshment, for horse or man. However, after threats from
the mehmandar, and promises of payment on my part, for
every accommodation that should be provided, at last a den was
opened to receive us, as full of foul air, dirt, and horrors of that
kind, as imagination can well conceive.
Our road, next day, continued south-east, over the plain ;
which soon lost its fertile appearance; stoney, and barren tracts,
succeeding to the fine arable and pasture land I so lately de-
NACKSHIVAN. 211
scribed. As we receded from Ararat, which Mr. Faber, (in one
of his admirable works on these subjects,) conjectures to have
been the site of the garden of Eden, we might suppose this to
have been indeed the land through which our first parents were
driven, from “the presence of the Lord, and paradisaical abund-
ance,” to a world of desolation, and of fearful creatures. For,
all before us was dark and sterile; while a range of hills on our
left, where not a sign of verdure appeared, wore a sort of
brimstone-and-purple hue, arid and dismal. These hills are
reported to be so infested with serpents, which swarm parti-
cularly in the hot months of the year, that no traveller ever
attempts to cross them. True or false these accounts, the
place all around seemed sufficiently congenial with such in-
habitants ; every where the earth was totally bare ; not a
single herb of any kind varying its hard and rough surface; and,
beyond the serpent-mountains, rose other alpine regions, in still
more broken and black forms, shooting their fractured peaks
into a sky which was then quickly involving in clouds. -
We found our night's lodgings at Nackshivan, the principal
place of the small district, or government, which bears the
same name. This little capital is in lat. 39°12. Formerly, it
was a very considerable city; but the spoliations of war have
curtailed it in every respect, even since the time of Chardin.
To a great extent, around its present diminished circumference,
we find the ruins of towers, mosques, houses, &c. which were
once within its walls. And, even in our approach to the town,
we had to traverse very extensive places, utterly fallen to decay,
and without inhabitants, before we arrived at the actual entrance.
Abbas the Great, when he annexed the province to his empire,
was the chief destroyer of this city; and, since that period, it
E E 2
212 NACKSHIVAN.
has too often been the victim of contending swords. The re-
mains of two magnificent mosques still raise their splendid
domes, over other ruins, in one of the deserted quarters of the
old capital. One of them, which is called the mosque of
Zavia, is curiously overlaid with green, blue, and gilded tiles;
a gorgeous style of ornament, which appears the peculiar taste
of the East. The commanding situations which the ancient
strong-holds of the place still occupy, and the military care that
is every where manifested in their construction, fully demon-
strate the advantage of the position, and how ably it was de-
fended ; and, when we see how Shah Abbas broke down such
means of future opposition, we cannot doubt his opinion of
their strength and consequence.
Ptolemy mentions the city of Naxuana, which corresponds,
in name and situation, so entirely with Nackshivan, that I cannot
but consider them the same place. Formerly; the wine made
here was celebrated as the best in Armenia; and its vineyards
as the most luxuriant and extensive. But nothing more of these
abundant vines are now to be seen, beyond the walls of two or
three gardens, where a remnant of grapes may yet be found,
to mark, perhaps, the spot of some old wine-press.
A Persian Khan governs this small district, and resides in the
town; and, from him I readily obtained a proper mehmandar,
to supply the place of that officer from Erivan, whose duty had
expired, on my passing into the Khan's jurisdiction.
Soon after sunrise, the following morning, I set forth with
my new mehmandar; and, about a mile from the town, crossed
the river Nackshivan, which at this season of the year is usually
very low, at a ford near to the ruins of the fine bridge that
Chardin passed over, when it was entire. It consisted of eleven
KESTNOOZ AND JAMADEEN. 213
arches, and was beautifully constructed of brick and stone. Our
road lay across a plain which, for want of water, was only par-
tially cultivated. Whenever the husbandmen of these districts
can acquire, by any means, sufficient of this element, so neces-
sary in agriculture, they do not spare putting it to use. Indeed,
there cannot be, in any country, a greater contradiction than
what lies between the habits of these people, when in the field,
and those they wear within doors. In the one case, they are
all activity and toil; and in the other, we see nothing but loath-
some indolence. The general produce of their labours are, cot-
ton, barley, and the castor-plant. From the latter they extract
an oil, part of which they consume themselves, and the rest
they make an article of sale. -
As we travelled on, I observed a very curious rock, starting
up from amidst the hills to the south-east, of six or seven hun-
dred feet in height, and of a perfect sugar-loaf form. From its
peculiar shape, and the position it holds amongst the hills, it
continues a conspicuous object to a great distance. Two con-
siderable villages lie near it. One is called Kestnooz; and 'the
other, which lies a little beyond the first, is called Jamadeen.
Our route was in the direction of this rock, over a dull and arid
soil. As we proceeded, the character of the plain gradually
disappeared amongst hills; and we soon saw ourselves in a nar-
row valley, which, by degrees, contracted to a rocky gorge of
very steep acclivities; at the bottom we found the bed of a
stream, whose waters, in the spring, or after the wet season,
swell to an impassable height; but at present they were hardly
more than a rill, and ran gurgling on amongst the rocks, while
we journeyed by its side contemplating the excessive beauty of
the red and green porphyry, which forms the high perpendicular
{}
214 . THE RIVER ARAXES.
cliffs of the gorge. We rode between them for nearly a mile,
and then came forth on a small plain, which appeared to be
completely surrounded by mountains. Through an enormous
chasm to the west, as if the opening scene of this great theatre,
I had a distinct view of the magnificent windings of the Araxes,
with the ruins of Eski Julpha on its banks. That city was not,
like that of Nackshivan, merely sacked and dismantled, by the
victorious arms of Shah Abbas, but absolutely battered into
ruin; and its surviving inhabitants transported to Ispahan, the
victor's capital, where they formed a suburb to that city, which
still bears the name of Julpha. Extensive remains of fortifica-
tions, on various points, close to the town, and on each side of
the river, still show what must have been its former consequence.
The piers of a bridge may also be traced, which, probably, was
the very same that Augustus ordered to be erected, on some
part of the Araxes, in this neighbourhood.
This noble river flows in a bending direction, almost in the
shape of a sickle, from its rise in the west, to the point of its
junction with the Kur, in the east. Its source, is said to be
near Hassan Kala, about eight agatches (or eight hours' journey)
east from Arzerum; and thence it flows onward, in a waving
course, till, in traversing the plains of Ararat, it takes a deep
curve southward; which, according to its convex sweep, em-
bracing the provinces of Erivan, Nackshivan, and Kara-Bagh,
finishes its point in the north-east, near the castle of Kalagan ;
where it meets the Kur, or Cyrus: and immerses its own cele-
brated name, in that of the more famous flood to which it has
united its waters.
A very short ride brought us from the mountain-plain, to the
verge of the river. We were to cross it, at almost the most
THE RIVER ARAXES. 215
southern stretch of its winding banks, where their sickle form,
having made its curve, turns eastward. We found a raft-like
boat, of a lozenge shape, that was to convey us to the opposite
shore ; and, by that translation, land us in Azerbijan, the go-
vernment of Abbas Mirza, Prince Royal of Persia, and what
was part of ancient Media. The Araxes was not more than
fifty yards wide at the place of embarkation; but the waters were
rapid, and occasioned no small difficulty in getting our animals
afloat. When we were all on board, the boat was pushed off,
and rowed with apparent ease by the ferrymen, till it got into
the full flood of the current; and then we were carried down the
stream to a considerable distance. But the ferrymen were on
the alert; and, by great and timely exertions managing to gain
a good deal of head-way, soon brought us up to a shoal. One
of them instantly leaping into the river made the vessel fast;
and the horses taking the same plunge, were led carefully on
shore; which so lightened the boat, it found sufficient water to
disembark the rest of the party on the bank. The ferrymen re-
crossed in the same manner that we came ; after having dragged
the vessel to a certain height up the southern side of the stream;
and beyond the point on the opposite shore at which we had
embarked. The river here ran due east.
At Julpha, and for a great extent above those ruins, the
Araxes (otherwise called the Aras) flows through a precipitous
valley; and, while in that course, it is largely augmented by the
numerous mountain-torrents which fall into its stream. At
times of thaw, or in the rainy season, these accessions of water
are very formidable; and the valleys of the Araxes often suffer
by their too abundant supply. However, at only a very few
miles below the ferry, the river is almost always fordable, from
216 - MARANDE.
the width of its bed at that part allowing the waters to become
shallow by expansion. In the winter, it is sometimes frozen so
hard, as to admit whole caravans to travel over its surface.
Having crossed the river, and a plain on its border, of about
three miles in extent, we arrived at the foot of a steep bank,
which we ascended; and passing through the ruins of a place
called Sooja, travelled on four miles further, where we began
another ascent, which we surmounted speedily, being spurred
forward by the increasing cold of the evening; and gladly saw
several large villages scattered over its summit. We halted at
Gurgur, one of the nearest to us; and the night being so
severe, were happy to find any shelter, though in a poor little -
hut. g
Next day, our road lay due west, for nearly three miles ;
after which, it wound about, to our old direction of south-east.
In this course, we passed through a narrow ravine, or rather bed
of a spring-torrent; which carried us, after an hour's contention
with the large and loose stones in our path, out upon an
extensive plain, barren, and dreary, and bounded by a vast
succession of hills, over whose dark heads towered the more
distant mountains, covered with snow. Our halting-place was
to be the town of Marande; and about eight miles before we
reached it, I observed a splendid caravansary at some distance,
on the road. My conductor told me, it was one of the many
fine erections of the kind, which had been the work of that
great Shah, Abbas. But, on my drawing near, I found it as
completely abandoned to decay, as any of the superb cities his
sword had wasted. The whole structure was of the best ma-
sonry; and fragments of the various-coloured tiles, which had
been its ornament, were still visible over the grand gateway.
MARANDE. 217
All the way, from the immediate vicinity of this deserted
resort of far-wandered commerce, to the gates of our proposed
quarters, the country showed a more pleasing aspect; changing
its sterile rocks for rich herbage; and, in place of the bed of a
dry torrent, we found ourselves on the gentle slopes of a fertile
vale, which runs between the hills, open to the morning and
evening sun at each extremity, and sheltered by the pale
summits of the northern mountains from the severest blasts of
winter. This luxuriant valley, though hardly five miles in width,
is upwards of thirty in length, and covered with every mark of
an industrious and thriving population. Villages, appearing in
the midst of trees, and gardens, producing delicious fruit, and
the people themselves, wearing a semblance of personal comfort
I had not seen since my quitting Georgia. A small but beau-
tiful river meanders through this happy scenery; adding its
enriching facilities on every side, to the steady labours of the
peasantry.
The town of Marande, which has its station nearly in the
centre of the valley, is a large and prosperous place, and has,
lately, been honoured by the erection of a new fortress, which
stands on an eminence close to the town. Ptolemy mentions,
in his list of towns in Media, one of this name; and, pro-
bably, it is the same place. The valley is too favourably endowed
by nature, to have ever been otherwise than an inhabited spot.
And I have often made a remark, while comparing the geo-
graphical works of the ancients on Asia, with the country itself,
that a very great number of the towns and cities, of the second
order of consequence, have still preserved their original names.
Their comparative obscurity, probably, having in that respect
been their protection; conquerors only caring to change ap-
VOL. I. F F
218 MARANDE.
pellations, where their spirit of jealous rivalry wishes to obliterate .
some memory, with the old; or of personal vanity, to erect some
special memorial of themselves, by stamping a new name.
Chardin gives Marande a very ancient origin, and tells us,
it was the burying-place of Noah. The natives have lost the
tradition. But I found a few Armenians, who were by no
means backward in maintaining a similar tale. They say, this
was the spot where the Patriarch planted a vineyard; and, though
they do not deny his having been inhumed here, they stoutly
affirm, it contains the grave of his wife ; that her name was
Marianne, and that the place, in consequence, was called
Marande.
- Leaving the city, about ten o'clock, next morning, and cross-
ing the valley, towards the mountains on the southern side, we
began a gradual ascent of two miles, which brought us to the
entrance of a narrow pass. I looked back on the beautiful vale
we were just quitting; and, though I might not discern its legen-
dary vines, or cypress-groves, the green and silvan garb of nature,
which every where clothed the scene, might well inspire the
traveller, from less fair regions, with a dream of paradise. The
defile, which we entered, carried us, in a winding direction, for
nearly two hours, towards the south-east; and, on its termination,
brought us out into a valley, very unlike that of Marande; for,
only in distant spots, could we discover any verdure; and the
huts of the labourers were scattered, few in number, on the
sides of the hills, near to the little morsels of meagre cultivation,
which hard toil had extracted from the stubborn soil. In the
course of our route through this vale of scanty vegetation, and
at about twelve miles' distance from Marande, we passed the
ruins of another caravansary, of very spacious dimensions, but in
SOFIAN. 219
as desolate a condition as the one we had seen on the other side
of that town. This second dilapidated structure stood at the
entrance of a considerable dell, through which flowed the rapid
Tourian, whose wide and rugged bed showed how tremendous a
stream rushed over it during the months of April and May.
On each side of the river's banks, which were broken, rocky, and
savage, the hills protruded their huge forms, naked of verdure;
and exposing their barren substance, under all the livid hues of
ashy paleness, faded yellow, dusky red, and faint green. The
shapes they took were so abrupt, jagged, yet regular, and
spread so widely onward, that to me they wore the strange
appearance, rather of some inland sea, whose tempestuous waves
had been arrested into sudden petrifaction, than of undulating
masses of earth and rock. Some of them, however, are more
profitable than they seem ; for, being composed of salt, the
natives dig it, and supply the town of Tabreez, and its neigh-
bourhood, with the produce.
The really hideous glen of the Tourian opens into a magni-
ficent valley, stretching on all sides to an immense extent. It
has been called by some, the plain of Kaldiran ; and is remark-
able for the defeat of Shah Ismael, by Sultan Selim; of which
it was the field, A. D. 1514. Hej, 920. At its eastern extremity
stands Tabreez, the capital of the province. But it was too far
for us to reach that day; and, our quarters for the night were
at the village of Sofian. That little place, also, has its fame;
having been within the lines of a dreadful battle fought A. D.
1585, between the Turks and Persians; and which gave a signal
overthrow to the former power, by the arms of Hamzeh Mirza,
who commanded the Persians.
F F 2
220 TABREEZ.
The distance from Sofian to Tabreez is twenty-four miles,
over a pretty good road, running south-east. About midway
we passed a considerable village on our right; and, soon after,
crossed a small stream. Four miles farther, brought us to a
bridge of handsome dimensions, but in a ruinous condition,
built over the Augi ; the waters of which river are perfectly salt.
Having gone a short way beyond its bank, I saw the towers and
minarets of Tabreez, rising amongst the hills at the east end of
the valley. An hour's brisk riding brought us to the city's
gates, some time before sun-set. I was met, at my approach,
by a little band of my own brave countrymen, who are there for
the purpose of organizing the new troops of the Prince Royal,
according to the European mode. Cold, and weary, and so
long absent from any but Asiatic faces, this sight was the most
cheering istakball, (the name given to a profession of welcome,
sometimes used in these countries,) that could have hailed me
from any capital of the East ; and I gladly shook hands with
men, who, born in my own land, were only one moment
strangers, and, in the next, the most cordial friends. -
Tabreez, or as some call it, Tauris, according to the observ-
ations of Major Monteith, is in lat. 38° 4'; and, according to an
observation taken by the unfortunate traveller, the late Mr.
Browne, it is in long, 46’25. At present, it is well known
from being the principal residence of the heir-apparent to the
Persian crown, Abbas Mirza ; and is the capital of Azerbijan, of
which province his Royal Highness is the governor. In dis-
tant ages, this city once rivalled Ecbatana. And Sir William
Jones went so far, as even to sink the identity of that great
capital of the Medes, in the reported splendours of Tauris, by
asserting that they are the same place. But the compliment.is
TABREEZ. - 221
as foreign from the present appearance of the city, as the site of
the two capitals are, in reality, widely distinct from each other.
Without, however, entering into any comparison between the
ancient consequence of Tabreez, and that of Ecbatana, we have
sufficient evidence that the capital of Azerbijan has long been
considered a place worthy the residence of sovereign princes.
It has often been the victim of their contentions; and wars be-
tween Turks, Persians, and Tatars, have all tended to level its
boasted grandeur in the dust. But perhaps the most destructive
enemies to the latter pretension, where it meant to express the
magnificence of the buildings, as well as the population of the
place, have been the effects of two fatal earthquakes, which at-
tacked the valley, twice in the course of the last century, and
rendered the city a heap of ruins. During these dreadful ca-
tastrophes, upwards of a hundred thousand of the inhabitants
perished; some swallowed up in the tremendous abyss, along
with their houses and substance; and others crushed under the
falling roofs and towers of the city. Terrible as these calamities
have been, yet, in face of the very monuments of their resistless
desolation, under the shattered walls, and over the precipitated
heaps of the old city, a new one has arisen ; and, though still in
infancy, it bids fair, under the present august resident, to become
an example of vital prosperity beyond any thing yet existing in
the kingdom. - • *
Tabreez has been re-fortified lately, by order of the Prince
and, accordingly, is surrounded with a thick wall, protected by
towers and bastions, with the addition of a very deep dry ditch.
The whole embraces a circumference of six thousand yards.
Beyond this boundary, to the north and east, extend the
suburbs, which rise amidst the ruins and broken ground of what
*
222 TABREEZ.
formerly composed part of the old city. Four gates, of no very
imposing appearance, conduct into the new city. They are sur-
mounted by turrets, and ornamented with slight minarets,
covered with chequer-work of blue and green tiles, which have
been collected from the remains of the ancient vaulted mosques.
These walls and towers are built of bricks dried in the sun, with
an occasional mixture of some that have been burnt; but, for
these latter, the modern architect is obliged to the great
earthquake, and the fine masonry it overwhelmed. Out of two
hundred and fifty mosques, mentioned by Chardin, the ruins of
only three are visible. The most considerable is that of Ali
Shah, erected nearly six hundred years ago, by Ali Koja; and
which still presents lofty arches, and the mouldering vaulted
work of splendid domes. The whole of the building, within
and without, has been cased with lackered tiles of porcelain,
adjusted into intricate and elaborate figures, with an ingenuity
and taste that would honour the most accomplished artists of
any age. The colours of these decorations are green, dark and
light blue, interspersed with Arabic señtences in letters of gold;
and a broad band of such legends, formed in white, upon this
beautifully varied ground, and interwoven with flowers in green
and gold, winds round the entire extent of the building. This
fine ruin is within the new fortifications of the city, as are, also,
the remains of the ark or citadel. In former times, it is said to
have contained the royal palace, with its attendant mosque. Very
legible traces of these different structures are yet to be found
within its lofty, though riven walls. The height of those walls
may be about eighty feet, commanding an extensive view on
every side over the lately erected works, and making a conspi-
cuous object to a great distance from the town. The materials
TABREEZ. 223
of the whole structure are of brick, and put together with the
nicest care. Indeed, that so much of it exists, after the general
overthrow by two earthquakes, proves the excellence of its
workmanship. Part of it is now used as an arsenal; and, also,
to a very dismal purpose. A few years ago a woman was pre-
cipitated from the top of the highest point of its wall, into the
ditch beneath, as a punishment for the murder of her husband;
a crime till then almost unheard of, in the annals of Persian
domestic life.
To the south-west of the new walls of the city, but far within
the remnants of the old boundaries, stand the magnificent re-
mains of the sepulchre of Sultan Kazan. It is situated about
two miles from the town; the whole way being marked with
shapeless ruins, even stretching beyond the sepulchre, to a great
extent; but the tomb itself, is an object too pre-eminent in
desolated grandeur to descry without approaching. Its appear-
ance now, is that of a huge mound, of mingled lime, dust, tiles,
and bricks; but surrounded with spacious arches of stone, and
other vestiges of departed majesty. ,
Beyond the eastern gate of the town, the ruins of its past
greatness reach for more than three miles over the valley, and
on the adjoining heights which skirt the base of the hills. Sub-
jacent to the loftiest of these hills, or rather mountains, which
formerly bore the name of Serdigiab ; and on one of its most
commanding subordinate acclivities, we see the massy towers of
an ancient fortress. Whatever consequence the ark or citadel
that is in the town may have held at any time as the immediate
bulwark round the ordinary palace of the sovereign, this vast
and venerable structure on the verge of the old walls (now so
distant from the new) must, from its position and its strength,
}
224 - TABREEZ.
have been considered the stronghold of the whole valley. Pro-
bably, the garrison for its military power; the repository of the
sovereign's treasures; and a last resource for his family in ex-
treme cases of invasion. A Persian M.S. written towards the
close of A. D. 1400, in speaking of the eminences which flank
the eastern quarter of Tabreez, says, “they were not only co-
vered with towers and battlements, but enriched with palaces
and mosques, and other glorious structures.” And this account
fully accords with the remains still extant amongst the rocks
and mounds of that quarter. The high towers of the fortress,
from their position, look down the whole valley; which may
easily be understood by a description of its situation. The lofty
range of barren and broken mountains which bank the north and
southern sides of the vale, or plain of Tabreez, enclose it to the
eastward also, in the shape of an amphitheatre; and there they
split themselves into a thousand irregular ravines, intersecting
each other in every variety of form and direction ; till, by gra-
dual slopes, they fall into the plain. On one of the most com-
manding heights of these ravines stands the grey pile of the
fortress. At what period in the Persian history this structure
was first raised, lies in as deep obscurity as the time of the
foundation of the city itself. That so vast a fortress was the
product of great labour and cost, may be seen in the thickness
of the walls, the massiness of the towers, and the splendid ma-
terials discoverable in many parts of the interior buildings. No
sun-dried bricks are to be found in any part of this structure;
the whole having been compiled of huge masses of loose stones
and mortar thrown together; and then, carefully and closely,
faced with large stones. A tower, of more than ordinary mag-
nitude, flanks the south-west front of the castle, which seems in
TARBEEZ. 225
a less impaired state, than any of its other quarters: it looks
towards the town and valley. Near to the foundation of the
before-mentioned tower, we find two bands of a dark-blueish
stone, let into the wall. The blocks which compose them are of
oblong shapes, each from five to six feet in length, and are placed
in their present situation in so promiscuous a way, as to leave
little doubt, both from their fashion being so different from the
rest of the building, and the hasty manner of their insertion, that
they formed no part of the original structure. It is related, that
Abbas the Great ordered the works in this quarter of the city to
be restored to a perfect state of defence. This repair might
have been done at that period ; which was about the time when
he caused the destruction of every strong-hold between Erivan
and Tabreez; a precaution against any future attempts, from the
then humbled Turks. In traversing the interior of the ruins, we
found several spacious and vaulted apartments, much below the
present surface of the ground; and near to them the remains of
a magnificent mosque. Heaps of tiles, of dust, and of furnace-
made bricks, fill up its shattered walls; but these ruins are inter-
spersed in many places, with pieces of the white transparent
marble, so renowned by the name of Tabreez marble; and which
is dug from the mountains, on the borders of the lake of Ou-
roomia. We traced the foundations of other considerable build-
ings; and distinctly marked where the baths had been. Indeed,
from the undisturbed architectural dispositions of all these re-
mains, I am led to conclude, that the most violent effects of the
earthquakes must have been confined to the plain. The horrors
of war, and the hand of time, might sufficiently account for the
dilapidations of these more elevated structures; there not being
amongst them any of the over-turned appearances which we find
VOL. I. G. G.
226 TABREEZ.
in the valley: and, as an additional argument of the earthquakes
having been guiltless of any very formidable attack on the heights,
we still see the hermitage almost entire, which Chardin mentions
as having been a favourite resort of the natives during his sojourn
at Tabreez. He wrote before the earthquakes had occurred;
and the place in question occupies the summit of a hill, on the
north-east of the town, not far from the old fortress.
Most antiquarians are agreed, that the ancient name of Tabreez
was Ganzaca; but we do not find any notice of its being consi-
dered the capital of Azerbijan, (the Antropatia of the old histo-
rians,) till the fourth century of the Christian era; when,
according to a treaty made between the Persian King Narsus,
and the Emperor Galerius, that province came into the posses-
sion of Tiridates; and the Armenian prince, influenced pro-
bably by the commanding strength of the fortress of Ganzaca,
not only enlarged the city but adorned its buildings, in proud
emulation of the splendours of Ecbatana the metropolis of Media.
From that period, the place, under the names of Ganzaca, Tauris,
or Tabreez, has been esteemed the capital of the province.
Yet, only three hundred years subsequent to this account, we
see that its extent, at least, must have suffered considerable
diminution ; for when Heraclius took possession of Tabreez, and
the royal treasures of Kosroes Purviz, the houses of the city
only amounted to three thousand. Such were the fluctuations
of power and population, in those days of leading into captivity,
or of general massacre War continued changing the face of the
province and its towns, for ages afterwards; and it was not until
the accession of the Sefi race, that Tabreez regained its old im-
portance. Chardin mentions that in his time the capital of
Azerbijan contained half a million of people. The consequence
TABREEZ. 227
that had been attached to maintaining its military strength, under
Abbas the Great, must of course have increased the inhabitants
of the city. But in the beginning of the eighteenth century, we
find its population so wonderfully reduced, that at the earthquake
of 1727, which demolished the chief part of the town, not more
than seventy thousand persons were its victims: an incredible
disproportion to the rate of its inhabitants just before. And at
the succeeding shock, which happened sixty years afterwards,
only forty thousand remained, to be swallowed up in the second
gulph. If the vast number reported by Chardin as the popu-
lation of Tabreez, in the year 1686, were the real fact, how
terrible must have been the events of war and its attendant
evils, famine and pestilence, which must have swept the province
of Azerbijan, and reduced the people of its capital city, in the
course of little more than forty years, (from the time of his
calculation, to the first earthquake,) from half a million of souls,
to hardly more than one-fifth of that multitude.
His Royal Highness Abbas Mirza, is doing all in his power to
restore the place to the military importance it formerly attained,
under the command of his great predecessor of the same name.
The Prince does not aim so much at adorning the city, as to
strengthen it. The present fortifications were begun, and finished
by him; and a maidan, or square, laid out, and surrounded with
barracks, for the troops he is organizing according to European
tactics. A palace also is under the masons' hands, for his own
residence; but it possesses none of the architectural pomp,
which seems to have characterised the royal residences of former
times. Indeed, it is not in modern Persia that the traveller
must look for the magnificent exterior of eastern palaces, and
other public buildings. Taking his course through the towns
G G 2
228 TABREEZ.
and cities, he sees nothing on either side of the narrow streets
but long mud-walls of different heights, though chiefly very low,
and perforated here and there with small mean-looking doors.
The domes of a few mosques, the towers of an old citadel, and
not unfrequently the scattered ruins of past grandeur, being
all that diversify the general dike-like traverses of the town.
Wealth, in this country, is the reverse of ostentatious ; there-
fore it is within those mean doors, and behind those mud-walls,
we must go, to distinguish the mansion of the rich from the
hovel of the poor. Several courts or quadrangles, larger or
smaller according to the consequence of the resident, thus shut
in from the public eye or ingress, and round which are disposed
the apartments, both of state and domestic convenience, form
the usual ground-plan of a Persian habitation. These open
COurtS give a free air to the house, which the closeness of the
streets would otherwise utterly deny; and are either paved, with
little fountains in the middle, or planted sometimes as a garden;
but oftener in the more motley style of parterres, with flowers,
clover, poppies, wheat, &c., all in parallel beds. In the more
garden sort of enclosure, they put every thing that is green and
lowly in its growth; for an overtopping arbour in this country,
would be as imprudent an anomaly in their unpretending abodes,
as a pillared portico, or a gilded dome. But every where in these
interior openings, rose-trees of a beauty and fragrance peculiar
to Persia, flourish in abundance; and perfume the air to so wide
a distance, that the traveller, riding alone through the dark-hued
streets, is often lost in wonder, of whence such sweet breath can
proceed. If the court, paved or planted, be small, the tank of
the jet d'eau is usually placed in the midst of it. If it be large,
we then find the water at one end; and several leaden pipes
ROYAL RESIDENCE. 229
even with its surface, from which spout the fountains, to the
height of sixteen or eighteen inches . The natives are particu-
larly fond of this luxury; and generally contrive to have the
tank so close to the open window of the reception saloon, that,
instead of being always delighted in warm weather with its
refreshing coolness, the host and his visitors are often pestered
out of all patience by the stings of innumerable insects engen-
dered by the heat, and near enough to the room to fill its atmo-
sphere with buzzing myriads. This reception saloon, or hall of
audience, varies according to the rank of the owner, in the
decoration of its walls, or the costliness of the nummuds, a sort
of felt or carpet on which the host and his visitors sit. But the
circumstances of a court, and a state-room looking into it, are
the regular order of every respectable habitation in Persia. The
same resemblance reigns through the disposition of all the other
apartments, only encreasing in number and size with the station
and wealth of the possessor. But all this exists unobserved,
behind the monotonous walls of mud, which usually form the side
of the quadrangle nearest the street. The palace of the prince,
exteriorly, is hardly to be discerned from one of the obscurest of
these mansions; and its apartments of ceremony are arranged in
the same manner. His Royal Highness being absent when I
arrived, I had good time for rest, and ample leisure to examine
his capital and the details of his palace, before I had the plea-
sure of paying my respects to himself.
Having gone over most of the royal residence, I was curious
to see how the gentler sex are accommodated, in a country
where their home is their prison. At least, so we consider
their sequestration. But such is the kindly influence of habit,
though many of these women must be full of conscious beauty,
230 ANDEROON, OR ROYAL FEMALE APARTMENTS.
and never have heard the voice of admiration but from one
man, yet the mere idea of giving them more liberty, would
fill them with misery. In short, they would regard the freedom
of the most delicate woman in Europe, as a contempt from their
husbands, and an exposure altogether too degrading to be
thought on. To satisfy my curiosity I was conducted to the
quadrangle of the Prince's palace, which is called the an-
deroon, or private apartment, where the ladies and female
slaves are lodged. Of course it was then vacant. I found this
place, as it ought to be, all couleur de rose. A very large and
magnificent room, occupied nearly the whole length of one of the
sides of the square. The windows had a particularly splendid
effect; their frames being subdivided into a variety of fanciful
forms or patterns, such as stars, circles, points, and a thousand
serpentine conceits, flowing gracefully into each other, while
the separations were filled with the most brilliant stained glass
of every possible colour.
In one corner of the court was a small door, leading to the
bath. Having entered by it, we went along an extremely
narrow passage ; and after making an angle or two, were
brought into a spacious saloon of an octagon shape. Its dome
was supported by four columns, which terminated at their base
in a stone bench or rather platform, which runs round the room,
and on which the carpets are spread when the place is to be
occupied by the fair bathers. The light comes in from above,
through a circular opening, covered by a thin slab of Tabreez
marble, perfectly transparent. A door on the left of the saloon,
conducted us through another narrow way, to the great bath;
close to the entrance of which, is a small dressing-chamber for
the use of His Royal Highness, when he chooses to bathe. The
apartment denominated the great bath, is one immense marbled
PROCESS OF THE BATH. 231
hall, the walls and floor being entirely covered with that cool
and shining surface; and from this chamber diverge several
recesses, still all marble; while at one end is the cistern, or
bath, with about four feet depth of water. The boiler is be-
neath, whence a pipe conveys the heated water into the receiver
above, to the temperature required. Tubes also conduct the
steam, or warmed air, into the saloon and its recesses; that a
colder atmosphere may not check the perspiration of the person
issuing from the bath. The domed apartment I have already
mentioned, is appropriated to the females, to complete the
ceremonies of the bath; and its decorations may be considered
in harmony with the beauty perfected beneath its roof. Mirrors
cover the walls in almost every part, and where we do not
see them, the intermediate spaces are luxuriantly painted with
flowers, intermixed with gold. The finest nummuds carpet the
benches, for the fair bathers to repose on ; and gathered roses
strew the floor in every direction, contrasting their natural
beauties with their gilded imitations on the walls. Such profusions
of this lovely flower, within and without the dwellings of Persia,
cannot but remind the foreign, visitor at every step, that he is
in the land of Hafiz, - of the nightingale and the rose.
Understanding that the process of the bath is much the same,
when applied by either sex, and as it is rather curious, I shall
describe it in a general way. The bather having undressed in
the outer room, and retaining nothing about him but a piece of
loose cloth round his waist, is conducted by the proper attendant
into the hall of the bath; a large white sheet is then spread on the
floor, on which the bather extends himself. The attendant brings
from the cistern, which is warmed from the boiler below, a suc-
cession of pails full of water, which he continues to pour over
232 PROCESS OF THE BATH.
the bather till he is well drenched and heated. The attendant
then takes his employer's head upon his knees, and rubs in
with all his might, a sort of wet paste of henna plant, into the
mustachios and beard. In a few minutes this pomade dyes them
a bright red. Again he has recourse to the little pail, and
showers upon his quiescent patient another torrent of warm
water. Then, putting on a glove made of soft hair, yet possess-
ing some of the scrubbing-brush qualities, he first takes the
limbs, and then the body, rubbing them hard for three quarters
of an hour. A third splashing from the pail, prepares the
operation of the pumice-stone. This he applies to the soles of
the feet. The next process seizes the hair of the face, whence
the henna is cleansed away, and replaced by another paste, called
rang, composed of the leaves of the indigo plant. To this suc-
ceeds the shampooing, which is done by pinching, pulling, and
rubbing, with so much force and pressure as to produce a vio-
lent glow over the whole frame. Some of the natives delight in
having every joint in their bodies strained till they crack; and
this part of the operation is brought to such perfection, that the
very vertebrae of the back are made to ring a peal in rapid suc-
cession. This climax of skill, however, has a very strange effect
to the spectator; for, in consequence of both bather and attend-
ant being alike unclothed, the violent exertions of the one, and
the natural resistance of the joints in the other, give the twain
the appearance of a wrestling match. This over, the shampooed
body, reduced again to its prostrate state, is rubbed all over
with a preparation of soap confined in a bag, till he is one mass
of lather. The soap is then washed off with warm water, when
a complete ablution succeeds, by his being led to the cistern,
and plunged in. He passes five or six minutes, enjoying the
AZ.A.
Jº ZzZerº Zºrºr.
zzº & Zorºman.” Žºorºne 4-2, own, Žºržow.”


BATHS OF THE PALACE. 233
perfectly pure element; and then emerging, has a large, dry,
warm sheet thrown over him, in which he makes his escape
back to the dressing-room. During the process of the bath,
many of the Persians dye, not only their hair black, but their
nails, feet, and hands, a bright red. They often smoke half a
dozen kaliouns; and, in short, take the whole business more
easily, than an European would his sitting down under the hands
of a barber, to shave his beard. 4-
The Persian ladies regard the bath, as the place of their great-
est amusement. They make appointments to meet there; and
often pass seven or eight hours together in the carpeted saloon,
telling stories, relating anecdotes, eating sweetmeats, sharing
their kaliouns, and completing their beautiful forms into all the
fancied perfections of the East; dyeing their hair and eye-brows,
and curiously staining their fair bodies with a variety of fantastic
devices, not unfrequently with the figures of trees, birds, and
beasts, sun, moon, and stars. This sort of pencil-work spreads
over the bosom, and continues down as low as the navel, round
which some radiated figure is generally painted. All this is dis-
played by the style of their dress, every garment of which, €Ven
to the light gauze chemise, being open from the neck to that
point: a singular taste, and certainly more barbarous than be-
coming; as may be seen by the sketch I have subjoined of the
costume of a Persian lady. In making it, I omitted the increased
savage appearance of the tattoo.
On quitting the court of the bath, which is also that of the
women, we passed through a quadrangle of less dimensions,
round which were disposed the apartments of the eunuchs. A
door led from it into a passage, long, dark, and winding, which
brought us forth into an extensive, and finely planted garden,
WOL. I. H. H. -
234 THE PALACE.
paved in parts, and watered with fountains and canals. On one
side appeared the grand saloon of audience of the Prince; the
style of which, though in a more elegant degree, may characterize
those of all his ministers, khans, &c. The room is very spacious,
the front wide, and open entirely to the garden, from the roof to
the floor. The latter is elevated only four feet above the out-
ward pavement. Two superb columns of a pentagonical shape,
without bases, and tapering gracefully to their summits, are each
finished by a capital in the form of an inverted pyramid, orna-
mented with small niches in regular rows, crowned with a deep
plinth nearly square, on which rests the ceiling, The pillars are
made of wood, overlaid with gilding, on which flowers, and ara-
besque devices interspersed with rich fretwork, are painted in
the most brilliant colours. Various compartments in the walls
were filled with pictures of former shahs, of their exploits in t
hunting, and of Abbas Mirza's own achievements in the dan-
gerous chase; the objects of such amusement in Persia, being
generally ferocious, as well as wild animals. The semblances of
beautiful women, had also found a place in the saloon of this
gallant prince. A great deal of gold, silver, and the gayest
colours, being used by the artists of the country to complete
the magnificence of a royal portrait, it forms a very sump-
tuous hanging of itself; and where pictures were not placed, the
walls exhibited every other splendour in the shape of mirrors,
with plates of looking-glass, inserted amidst the wreathing of rich
gilding, and every variety of flowers, which covered not only the
walls, but the ceiling. The reflections from the glass so mul-
tiplied the columns, and carried the brilliant compartments of
the room into a thousand deepening recesses, that the eye soon
became lost in the gorgeous maze. The head of the chamber,
THE PALACE. 235
which answered to the space open to the garden, exhibited a
superb window, almost stretching from side to side of the
room, and filled with variegated panes of coloured glass. The
floor was entirely overspread with Herat carpets, those of that
manufacture being the richest that can be made ; these, and
nummuds of a particularly fine and beautiful fabric, were the
whole furniture of the saloon. So simple are the necessaries
required in this country, by prince or peasant, for seat, bed, table,
or altar ! In no house do we see more than these, and hardly
less in any ; the only difference being, that as the wealth of the
possessor decreases, the quality of the stuff impoverishes also.
And, as I have observed before, these people using the carpet
not merely for domestic purposes, but to kneel down on when
they say their prayers, it is considered in some measure sacred;
and hence arises the custom of a visitor always leaving his slip-
pers at the room door. In mentioning the door, I mean what-
ever denotes the way of ingress to the apartment; for though in
general there is a double door of carved or painted wood, which
may be closed at pleasure, yet it is so seldom shut in the day,
we usually find a silk curtain filling the vacant space of the en-
trance; its light drapery being not only a cooler, but a more
elegant appendage than a thick, heavy door. An attending
servant raises the curtain at the approach of a visitor, and drops
it on his having entered. That the custom of such draperies is
an ancient one, we find in several authors ; an instance from one
may suffice. Plutarch, in writing of Alexander the Great's en-
raged passions, remarks, “upon this, Alexander snatched a spear
from one of the guards, and meeting Clytus as he was drawing
back the door curtain, ran him through the body.” -
Immediately on my arrival at Tabreez, I had been visited by
H H 2
236 MIRZA BEZOORK.
the principal officers of the Prince-governor's court, to inform me
of his Royal Highness's temporary absence; and a few days
afterwards, I had an opportunity of observing the manners of a
great state dinner, to which I was invited by Mirza Bezoork the
Kyme Makaum, or Prime Minister of the Prince. This really
noble Persian, is a man of a spare habit, about fifty years of age,
with a languid, but expressive countenance, bespeaking goodness
and penetration, and when occasions call it, an energy in every
feature, that testifies the activity of a minister, in every way wor-
thy the trust devolved on him by his royal master. True national
policy is yet an infant science in this empire. But Mirza Be-
zoork is one instance of considerable maturity in the knowledge
of government, of the power, happiness, and grandeur, which
arise from its just administration. The most disinterested libe-
rality with regard to his own personal advantage, and an expan-
sion of view in the fulfilment of his office, proceeding from the
distinguished cultivation of his mind, make him a very superior
person; and above most of his compeers, valuable for his coun-
sels to a prince, whose own dispositions seem so well inclined
to lead, or to follow, every good purpose for his country.
Myself and my countrymen assembled a little before sunset
at the house of the Kyme Makaum. We were shown into an
extensive saloon carpeted all over, and with the usual accompani-
ments of nummuds, which are long and narrow pieces of a thicker
and softer substance, made of wool or felt. On some of these
sat several of the officers of state, who rose on our approach;
and after the usual compliments, we took our station on the
nummuds appointed for our accommodation, in the true Eastern
style of sitting on the heels, or cross-legged, whichever way our
stubborn limbs could easiest conform to the attitudes of the more
PERSIAN MANNERS. 237
plastic Asiatics. A couple of huge, heavy, and ill-proportioned
candalabra, stood opposite to each other in the middle of the
floor, their lights being fed with oil, or any other convenient
unctuous matter. In a small chimney, at one end of the room,
blazed a lively wood fire; and to increase the heat, a brazen
dish full of glowing charcoal, was placed at the answering
extremity.
A few minutes elapsed before our host made his appearance.
On his entrance we all rose; and on being re-seated, he bowed
to each person according to his rank, uttering at the same time
a compliment befitting the esteemed importance of the guest.
The routine of the entertainment was then as follows: kaliouns
were presented; then coffee, served in very small cups, and
without cream or sugar. Kaliouns succeeded; then tea, in
larger cups; and this over, conversation filled an interval of ten
minutes, when the minister gave a signal for dinner to be
brought. Several servants immediately entered, bearing a long
narrow roll of flowered cotton in their arms, which they laid
down, and spread before the whole company, who now occupied
both sides of the room. This napery was placed close to our
knees. The next service was to set a piece of the thin sort of
bread or cake I formerly described, before each guest, to be
used as a plate and napkin. Then came a tray, between every
two persons, containing the following articles of food : two bowls
of sherbet, each provided with a wooden spoon of delicate and
elegant workmanship; a couple of dishes of pillau, composed
of rice soaked in oil or butter, boiled fowls, raisins, and a little
saffron. Two plates, with melons sliced; two others, containing
a dozen kabbobs, or morsels of dry, broiled meat; and a dish,
presenting a fowl, roasted to a cinder. The whole party along
238 PERSIAN MANNERS.
the extended web, being in like manner supplied, the host gave
the sign for falling to ; a command that seemed to be understood
literally, for every back became bent, every face was brought
close to the point of attack, and every jaw, in an instant, was in
motion. This is done by a marvellous dexterity in gathering up
the rice, or victuals of any kind, with the right hand, and almost
at the same moment, thrusting it into the mouth. The left
hand is never used by the Persians but in the humblest offices;
however, during meals at least, the honoured member certainly
does the business of two, for no cessation could be observed in
the active passage of meat, melon, sherbet, &c. from the board
to the mouths of the grave and distinguished assembly. I must
say, I never saw a more silent repast in my life, nor one where
the sounds of mastication were so audible. In some countries
it may be “merry in the hall, when beards wag all;” but here,
I could only think of a similar range of respectable quadrupeds,
with their heads not farther from their troughs, than ours were
from the trays. For my part, when ever I wished to avail
myself of the heaps of good provender on mine, at every attempt
to throw a little rice into my mouth, it disappeared up my
sleeve; so that, after several unsuccessful essays, I gave up the
enjoyment of this most savoury dish of the feast, and contented
myself with a dry kabbob or two.
When the servants cleared away, it was in the order the
things had been put down. A silver-plated jug with a long
spout, accompanied by a basin of the same metal, was carried
round to every guest, by an attendant who poured water from
the jug on our right hands, which we held in succession over the
basin, while each individual cleansed his beard or mustachios
from the remnants of dinner. We had no towel to dry one or
PERSIAN MANNERS. 239
the other, save our own pocket-handkerchiefs ; the bread-
napkin, or plate, having no capability but to be eaten off, and
wipe the ends of the fingers between every new plunge into the
opposite dish. A kalioun, with tea, followed; and continued,
with a few interruptions, during the conversation which had
broken the dead silence on the departure of the rolled-up web
and its appendages. A fresh kalioun finished the entertainment,
and we then rose to take our leave. With extreme difficulty
I obeyed the general movement; but when I did get upon my
legs, they were too cramped to stand, and had it not been for
the support of one of my countrymen, more accustomed to
such curveture of limbs, I must have fallen. A few minutes,
however, restored me to locomotive motion; and having made
my bow, we passed through the curtained entrance, to resume
the slippers we had left at the door.
In Persia, a native never enters a room in boots or slippers;
and when a foreigner attempts any transgression of this usage,
it is looked upon as the height of ill-breeding, if not quite a
premeditated insult. In some cases where it has been intimated,
reasons of policy have compelled an apparent toleration of the
objection, by providing the expedient of receiving such visitors
in the open air; but the necessity is always remembered with
repugnance to the exactors. In visiting countries of different
customs from our own, it is one thing to compromise a man's per-
sonal respectability, or that of his nation, by complying with
demanded ceremonies out of the way of the usual line; and
another, to conform to the established fashions of the people with
whom we are, in their public or domestic regulations. Indeed
such compliance seems equally essential to common philanthropy
and politeness on our parts, as the hospitality so ungraciously
240 PERSIAN CUSTOMs.
received, may be to the general principles of good-will between
man and man. To keep the head covered, is another point of
Persian etiquette; and as we Englishmen were obliged, therefore,
to dine in our cocked-hats and feathers, where they were no small
impediments in our approach to the trays, we found this extremity
of politeness much the most troublesome of the two.
The custom of leaving the outward covering of the feet at the
door, is of very ancient practice all over the East, and especially
so, when the place to be trod on, is connected with any
religious ideas. We find it recorded, so far back as in the book
of Exodus, at the account of Moses turning aside to observe the
burning bush, where it is written, “The Lord called to him,
and said, Put off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the place
whereon thou standest is holy ground.” And again, we read
in the book of Joshua, that when that great captain of Israel
was encamped in the plain of Gilgal, the same Divine Being
appeared to him, and said to him also, “Loose thy shoe from
off thy foot; for the place whereon thou standest is holy. And
Joshua did so.” These two notices of the custom, are selected
on account of their antiquity, from many others which it is
needless to add. Mohammed adopted the same reverence to
consecrated places, and things, into the ceremonies of his faith;
and, as I have observed before, the carpets of Persia being not
only of a more costly texture than any which are laid on the
floors in Europe, but rendered sacred by their use in prayer, to
tread on them with any thing beyond a light sock, would be
regarded by the professors as an outrage little short of sacrilege.
The sock, which is worn within-side of the boot or slipper for
this purpose, is of a delicate manufacture and prettily wrought
with various colours. * p
PERSIAN CUSTOMS. 241
The ordinances of the Koran oblige its followers to pray at
least five times a day; an injunction which the eminently pious
mussulman obeys with the most scrupulous exactness. The
first matin-service compels the devotee to rise before dawn. He
begins by performing, with his right hand, all the holy ablutions.
He then unrolls his carpet, and disposes it so, that one end of it
may face, as nearly as he can guess, the direction of Mecca. To
that point he is to address his petitions. He kneels down on
the carpet, placing his hands in front of his breast, with the
palms closed together. In this attitude his orisons commence,
and generally in a mumbling tone, while at intervals he touches
the ground, or rather carpet, with his forehead. His fast is
broken by a cup of bitter coffee, a few sugar-plumbs, sweetmeats,
and a kalioun. About mid-day the second prayer is said ; after
which the good mussulman may safely satisfy his appetite with
a little more substantial fare. Towards afternoon, a third pros-
tration, and mumbling, takes place; and as soon as the sun
sets, the fourth commences. An hour after that is finished,
dinner is served ; the meal of greatest luxury, and of longest
duration, in this country. The fifth, and last holy office of the
day, is left to the discretion of the person, so that it is done
before he retires to rest for the night.
When we calculate the number of hours which a man has at
his command, by this early rising, and far from haste to bed, we
cannot but admire the advantage such a habit bestows on the
man of business, or of study. Persons employed in public
service here, receive their visitors, or applicants, from sun-rise
till ten or eleven in the forenoon ; at which hours they adjourn
to the palace to transact affairs of state, and be ready for any
conference with the Prince. The absence of His Royal Highness
WOL. I. I I
242 - EDUCATION OF PERSIAN PRINCES.
being only for a short time, he had left part of his family, and
the majority of his official establishment, at Tabreez. Amongst
the former, was his brother Malek Khassum Mirza, a fine boy of
about thirteen years of age, with the deportment of a man. He
was treated at all times with the same deference that was paid
to the presence of the Prince-governor himself; and as soon as
he knew I was arrived at Tabreez, he did me the honour to
express his wish to receive me. I found him a very handsome
youth; and the ease and dignity of his manners, with the affability
and pertinence of his remarks, could not fail to give me agreeable
impressions of the royal brother, with whom he is so great a
favourite. -
The progress of general knowledge has certainly made a
most extraordinary advance all over the globe, within this last
half-century; and, accordingly, a great and advantageous change
has taken place of late years, in the style of educating princes of
the blood-royal in Persia. Formerly, they were shut up in the
Harem, under the sole direction of women and eunuchs, till
the death of the reigning monarch called one to a throne, and
probably, the rest to rebellion or the bow-string. The women,
from their situations ignorant and selfish, taught these children,
by precedent and precept, envy, deceit, circumvention, and all
the mean and mischievous passions which arise from jealousy of
power, working on weak and totally uninformed minds. Flattery,
falsehood, and depraved example, with hasty resentments and
thirst for revenge, make quick dispatch with the tender buds of
virtue in unsuspicious youth ; and with these weapons, the
eunuchs added their weight to the pile of early ruin, stifling what-
ever seeds of truth, or other manly disposition, might have been
sown by nature in the young heart. Then came the last tutor,
EDUCATION OF PERSIAN PRINCES. 243
to complete the whole — some self-important moollah, with his
corrupted principles of religion and morality sealing up the
already narrowed door of knowledge. Sanctions to tyranny,
and privileges to vice, were inculcated as lessons from Heaven.
And thus taught on every side, that a prince has no law but his
own will, the unhappy victim of these vain, selfish, and ignorant
deceits, being once called out into the world, was left to all the
inevitable consequences of an arm that is against every man, and
every man’s arm against him.
The system, at present, is so totally different from the pre-
ceding, that the young princes are permitted from the earliest
ages, to see and hear all that passes without the palace, as well
as within ; and by these means they acquire a familiar and useful
knowledge of their country and the people, and an easy appli-
cation of the various etiquettes of court, whether with relation
to the great king their father, or in connection with his ministers
of state. Meanwhile they have every requisite instructor:
some, to explain the doctrines of their faith ; others, to inculcate
the elements of the few sciences, which are still to be found in
this part of the east ; and, I regret to say, that astrology has yet
too eminent a rank amongst them. Their lighter studies, and
recreations, consist of writing, reading, and reciting passages
from their favourite poets; to excel in the management of the
horse, and in every other acquirement connected with war and
the chase. When all this is achieved, and they are deemed of
mature age, the government of different provinces are allotted to
each, to exercise their talents, and strengthen the throne of their
father. Thus far have the plans of royal education regenerated
in a country, once celebrated as the very mould whence other
countries would have wished to cast the fashion of their youth.
I I 2
244 ABBAS MIRZA.
But so many ages, and changes of people, have passed over this
very land, since the times of the elder Cyrus, that no trace can
now be found of the general system of laws and consequent
education, which Xenophon eulogizes and describes with so
much accuracy and eloquence in his Cyropedia. Yet, when we
reflect how little of it remained, even at the period when he
traversed the same country in the ever-memorable retreat of the
Ten Thousand; an event which took place hardly more than a
century after all these institutions were in their full vigour, can
we be surprised, that none exist after a lapse of two thousand
years | What foundations, the remainder of this century may
lay down for the restoration of some part of the old Persian
name, are scarcely to be guessed at ; but the character of the
present heir apparent, Abbas Mirza, has so much of the ancient
principles of truth, simplicity, and general interest for his coun-
try, in its composition, that we may be allowed some hope for
the once-revered empire of Cyrus. I had not these accounts from
Persians alone, certain partialities might have influenced them
to colour the picture; but I received the same testimony from
my own countrymen, residing at his court; and before I came
to the country, the reputation of his truly princely qualities had
reached the great capital of the north.
His Royal Highness was at Koiy, one of the finest cities of
his province, at the time of my arrival at Tabreez; and I was
not a little impatient for the expiration of the brief season, he
usually passes there in hawking and hunting. Game of all
sorts abounds in the neighbourhood; but the prince has other
inducements to prolong his stay in a city which shares with
Tabreez his views of general improvement. It is more plea-
santly situated than that capital; possesses more natural beau-
LAKES OF OUROOMIA, &c. 245
tles, and certainly a safer foundation; but it does not lie so
central for all his objects as the old capital of Azerbijan, and
therefore that must be the residence of its governor.
Mr. M'Donald has put Koiy down in his map as the antient
Artaxata ; but by whatever name this fine town of Azerbijan
might have been designated in former times, assuredly it has not
the remotest claim to that of the celebrated Armenian city. In
short, its position does not answer in any one way, to the topo-
graphy given of Artaxata by the old authors.
The lake of Ouroomia lies to the south-east of Koiy, at no
great distance from the city, and is generally considered the
Spauto and Marcianus of Strabo and Ptolemy. Eben Haukel, a
Persian writer, states its length to be about five days’ journey ;
and, he adds, that its waters are so exceedingly salt no fish can
exist in them. By an experiment of the late Mr. Brown's, they
were found to contain one-third more salt than the sea. The
lakes Sevan, Ouroomia, and Van, are the only pieces of water of
that form, which we find throughout the vast country lying be-
tween the Euxine, Caspian, and Ormuz seas; and their situa-
tions seem pretty nearly at equal distances from each other.
The Van lies west of the other two, and of its shores little can
be said at present; the ferocity of the Curdish inhabitants ren-
dering it impossible for any European traveller to penetrate
their borders. With regard to the Sevan, the beauty of its cir-
cumjacent scenery has been already described ; and the climate
of Azerbijan, which circles the Ouroomia, is said to be the most
salubrious in Persia. My visit to this province being in the
winter, I can only speak of its generally very clear atmosphere;
but with an intensity of cold in the month of December, equal
to what is termed a moderate season at St. Petersburgh.
246 CLIMATE AT TABREEZ.
One morning, about the middle of the month, snow began to
fall, accompanied by a tremendous wind from the north-east;
and before evening, the whole country was covered for several
feet in depth. When the sky had quite unburthened itself, the
weather became settled, and the sun continued to shine with a
splendour only to be seen in countries of such transparent
atmosphere, where the brilliancy of the frosty medium gives to
the air the dazzling effect of diamonds. This peculiar radiance -
of the day, with the cold at eight degrees of Reaumur, and the
brightness of the night, at twelve, fourteen, and sixteen of the
same, was certainly winter drest in its fairest garb. But owing
to the long prevalence of frost, the snow became like dust;
and when the wind blew, it was whirled in clouds, like the sand
of the desert, filling up every path, high road, or hollow, in its
way. This inconvenience is redoubled, when the snow already
down meets accumulation from above. Hence it is considered
great rashness, to attempt going any distance from the city, when
either the heavens are loaded, or the air turbulent ; for to be
caught in any of these snow-storms, is almost certain destruction.
Many instances have occurred, where not only solitary indivi-
duals, but whole companies and caravans have been overwhelmed,
and perished. The track being soon covered, and the snow
coming on in every direction from drift, whirlwind, and the fall-
ing clouds, every land-mark is obscured, and the lost travellers,
exhausted, benumbed, and abandoned to despair, are speedily
sunk under the tremendous mass.
One of the British officers, now residing at Tabreez, during a
journey he made to Teheran two winters ago, narrowly escaped a
similar fate. Every vestige of road was obliterated; and he,
with his attendants, had wandered, and ploughed their way, for
CLIMATE AT TABREEZ. 247
several hours, without a guide from earth or sky; when evening
drawing on, they gave themselves up for lost. At this juncture,
they were providentially descried by some peasants from the
roofs of their almost buried cabins. With instant dispatch, but
great labour, these good people cleared a path to the half-perished
travellers; and by such prompt humanity, rescued them from
the most desolate of deaths. -
I was much surprised to find that notwithstanding the severity
of this weather, few of the Persians of either sex put on addi-
tional clothing; and many of them, young and old, go with the
breast entirely bare. This strange neglect of the common means
of protection, in some measure accounts for the frequent recur-
rence of the most melancholy catastrophes, in consequence of
any accidental exposure to the immediate influence of the out-
ward atmosphere, under a degree of frost that would hardly be
felt by a Cossack in his Bourka, or a Russian under his Shaab.
Scarcely a day passes, without one or two persons being found
frozen to death in the neighbourhood of the town. Several
instances, which happened during my stay at Tabreez, were
particularly distressing; and amongst them, was the perishing of
three women and two men, with five asses belonging to them,
which had taken shelter from a sudden drift of snow and wind,
under an arch of the Augi bridge. They were discovered after
the storm had subsided, perfectly dead, and as stiff as the blocks
of ice which lay on each side of them. Another calamity of the
kind, I shall mention, as having a circumstance of greatly aug-
mented pain connected with it. The gates of all towns and
cities in Persia are shut a little after sun-set, and re-opened at
sun-rise. Strict adherence to this injunction, and carelessness, or
sunavoidable delays, on the part of travellers, often subject them
248 CLIMATE AT TABREEZ.
to the inconvenience of reaching the gates when they are closed.
Hence they must stay without, till morning. And during the
inclement season, at opening the gates, very often a terrible
scene of death unfolds itself close to the threshold; old and
young, animals and children, lying one lifeless heap. But the
particular instance I would now recount, relates to a solitary
traveller, who had performed a long journey on his own horse;
a member of their families, to which these people are eminently
attached. When he arrived at Tabreez, the ingress was already
barred. The night was one of the severest which had been
known; and the poor man, to save himself from the fatal effects
he too surely anticipated, pierced his faithful horse with his
dagger, and ripping up its body, thrust himself into it; in the
vain hope of the warmth, which might remain, preserving his
own vital heat till the morning. But in the morning, when the
gates were opened, he was found frozen to death in this horrible
shroud. -
For myself, I had long been sufficiently aware of the dangers
of such exposures, not to risk the casualties of Tabreez, beyond
the ordinary occasions; but some of their threats cannot be
escaped, by any refuge. In short, one evening, when the cold
was at sixteen of Reaumur, and while I was sitting after dinner,
for the first time in my life I experienced the shock of an earth-
quake. Remembering that I was at Tabreez, and that the city
had been twice swallowed up on a similar warning, I did not
feel the convulsion in the ground, nor my own sensations, very
agreeable. But after rocking the house with a violent motion
for a few moments, the shock ceased, by its cause rolling away
with a hollow noise, like distant thunder. -
Towards the end of February, Abbas Mirza arrived at his
VISIT TO ABBAS MIRZA. 249
capital; and was received with as great a degree of state, that is,
as splendid an Istakball, as the rigour of the season would allow.
This ceremony usually consists, of a cavalcade of officers of dig-
nity; with numbers of the people, on foot and on horse-back,
performing all kinds of equestrian and military evolutions; while
the rest of the multitude dance and shout, and exhibit, by every
means, their devotion and joy. This mode of greeting, is gene-
rally reserved for princes, or persons representing that dignity.
And, as the procession goes forth to meet the expected visitant,
and returns before him, with all these demonstrations of homage,
it is not difficult to recollect similar scenes in sacred, as well as
profane history; and we cannot but feel interested in so ancient
and authorised a custom. -
Abbas Mirza did me the honour to send to me, soon after his
arrival. The British Charge d’ Affaires was then at Teheran; but
Major Lindsay, one of my countrymen in the service of His
Royal Highness, was so kind as to perform the formalities of in-
terpreter and presentation. About noon, we rode to the palace,
where we were joined by Mahommed Houssan Khan, the master
of ceremonies. We followed him into a spacious square court,
along which were arranged, standing in lines, the nobles and
persons in office. The Prince was seated at a large open window
at the end of the Court, opposite to those ranks of attendant
ministers. He seems to be about thirty-three years of age. His
countenance is rather pale, with dark and expressive eyes; his nose
aquiline; his beard full, and like his finely-formed eye-brows, of
a jet-black. His dress was perfectly simple, but we saw all the
prince in his air. We bowed, advanced into the centre of the
court, and bowed again. We then disengaged our feet from our
slippers, (having red kerseymere socks, a kind of boot without
VOL. I. K K
250 PERSIAN MONEY.
sole, under them,) and drew near the place in which he sat.
We made a third bow. By a short and narrow passage, we
entered the apartment, and saluted him a fourth time. He
instantly made a sign for us to be seated. He then uttered a
few words of the most gracious welcome; and his smile puts
one at ease in a moment. He desired Major Lindsay to express
fully to me, that he received me as an old friend; that he had
long known me, by report; and that Abul Hassan Khan had
repeated to him, the hospitalities I had shown to him. His
Royal Highness then invited me to accompany him to Teheran;
whither the King had ordered him to repair, to assist at the
celebration of the feast of the Nowroose. He did me the honour
to say, that would I join his party, he hoped to make my travel-
ling to the Persian capital, more comfortable than it could
otherwise be, at that inclement season. I could not but be
happy to embrace so gracious a proposal; as it would enable
me to become really well acquainted with a Prince, whose cha-
racter may hereafter have no inconsiderable influence on the
balance of European power beyond the Indus. After some
discourse on the position of public affairs in Europe, we took
our leave; and withdrew, repeating the same ceremonies with
which we entered. -
Amongst other preparations for my journey to Teheran, I
furnished myself with a sufficient quantity of the different monies
of the country. The Persian coin is of gold, silver, and copper;
each metal being struck in almost its pure state. The gold
money are called tomauns; one of which, in intrinsic value,
may now be equal to ten shillings English: they were worth
more, formerly; but, during the last fifty years, their size and
weight have gradually decreased. There are two sorts of silver
DEPARTURE FROM TABREEZ. 251
money: the highest in value is the real, eight of which
amount to a tomaun. The smaller silver coin is called the
white-shy; eight of these being equal to a real. The copper
money have the name of black-shy; and twenty-four of them.
amount to one real. Tomauns are coined in almost every great
province; but they differ much in actual value, though all pass
current for the same number of reals. Counterfeit money is
also found in this country; but the fabricators are sure of death,
on the event of detection. Clippers, or otherwise defacers of
the national coin, are punished by mutilation. Gold ducats
are the only foreign money passable; and they suffer more
than the native tomaun, because there is less risk incurred,
under the hands of the fraudulent. We see them in daily circu-
lation, altered from their original form into all the shapes of
square, octagon, pentangular, and no remark made on the depre-
dation of their substance. Not being of Persian origin, liberties
with their surface are permitted to pass with a neglect almost
amounting to impunity. The current value of a ducat is equal
to six reals. When a sum of any considerable amount is to be
paid in this coin, it is usually disbursed by weight; and that
more of these clipped ducats, may not go to the scale, than
would be demanded of their counted number in paying the
price, the coin is duly burthened with a certain portion of melted
wax, to make the balance of justice stand even.
That we might reach the capital several days before the com-
mencement of the nowroose, which begins on the twenty-first of
March, the Prince commanded all to be in readiness for an
almost immediate departure from Tabreez. He provided me
with a young Persian, called Sedak, of uncommon natural en-
dowments, and still rarer advantages of education, to be with
K K 2
252 CAVALCADE TO TEHERAN.
me constantly, as my interpreter. A mehmandar was also sent
to attend me, to see that my own quarters, and those of my
people and horses, were duly provided. His Royal Highness
had given directions, that my board should daily be furnished
from his own ; a distinction which is held in high honour by the
Persians. •
All being prepared, and the morning of the third of March
having been fixed for that of our departure, soon after sun-rise
on that day, I set forth, accompanied by some of my country-
men, to join the Prince at the eastern gate of the city. At the
moment of our arrival, the bugles had sounded, and his Royal
Highness, with his numerous suite, were just on the move. The
sight was novel to me, and not less interesting; for almost every
new object I now heard or saw, seemed a memorial, from age
to age, of some usage we read of in our oldest histories of the
East.
A party of horsemen, to the number of about one hundred
and fifty, marched first as an advanced guard. Then followed
the Prince. And immediately behind him, rode his eldest son
Mahomed Mirza, a boy about twelve years of age, with his
cousin, the son of Ali Shah, Governor of Teheran; and Malek
Khassum Mirza, the youngest son of the King. We Europeans
followed next ; consequently I was seldom far from the person
of the Prince. Then succeeded the khans, and ministers of
state, with the whole mass of necessary officers besides, mingled
indiscriminately amongst five or six hundred goolams, a kind of
horsemen in the service of Persian royalty, used both on civil
and military duties. These people are always better dressed,
armed and mounted, than the ordinary cavalry of the country;
and, from the numerous advantages, of abundant perquisites,
DESCRIPTION OF THE CAVALCADE. 253
and being constantly under the royal eye, where they are ready
for any advancing appointment, the squadron is generally filled
by the relations or friends of persons in the highest power
throughout the country. Their arms usually consist of a long
persian gun, a sword, dagger, and pair of pistols, the latter
stuck in their girdle or holsters. The trappings of their horses
are very good, but without uniformity. Those who have gained
any particular mark of distinction from the royal personage they
attend, cover their bridles with silver ornaments, chains, and
tassels; and their horses are otherwise gaily decorated. There
is no order of march amongst this numerous band, who mingle
themselves indiscriminately with the mixed multitude of Persian
gentlemen, civil officers, servants, &c., which compose the centre
moving mass. - -
Amongst the latter class of people, are the Peshkidmats,
domestics who take charge of the smoking apparatus: and an
excellent figure, one of these pieces of equipage makes in the
motley cavalcade; the man, his horse, and all the appendages
of his office. A couple of cylindrical leather cases, are fastened
on each side of his saddle, at the places usually destined for the
holsters; one contains the kalioun, with its pipes, &c., and the
other the tobacco. On the left flank of the beast, and suspended
by a chain, long enough to clear his belly, hangs an iron-pot, filled
with live charcoal; and, as an opposite pendant, we see a large
leathern bottle, holding water: — fire and water being essentials
to the enjoyment of the kalioun. In addition to all this, the
poor animal is loaded with a couple, or more, of huge bags,
stuffed with all sorts of things that it might be possible for the
master to require during his long journey. Thus burthened,
man and horse are obliged to keep pace with the rest of the
254 CONVERSATION WITH ABBAS MIRZA.
troop ; and be ready, at an instant's call from the master, to
serve the kalioun on the march. Some use the common wooden
tube; but others, more luxurious, have one that is pliable,
winding, like a snake of several feet in length. It is attached
to the conducting tube, which being held by the servant, enables
him to attend in his duty, and yet keep a respectful distance in
his master's rear. * -
Soon after I had gained the head of the column, the Prince
invited me to join him ; and thus, for a considerable portion of
the day's journey, I had the free enjoyment of his conversation,
on a variety of subjects. In all its changes, I found new occa-
sions to admire the capacities of his mind, and the noble pur-
poses to which he unfolded them. My interpreter, (who, hence-
forward, was to be as my shadow,) assisted me in fully compre-
hending the animated discourse of his royal master. He dis-
cussed all the existing empires; dwelling particularly on their
naval and military power, their discipline, their commerce, and
their comparative wealth, as a means of political action. Indeed,
it was not a little astonishing, to discover in a prince, seated far
from the shores of northern Europe, (the interests of which, to
common minds, might not appear to have any reference to his ;)
to see in him so correct a knowledge of all the leading political,
or military acts, which have been transacted in Europe during
these last ten years. His remarks were not less judicious, on the
consequences of Bonaparte's second abdication, after the battle
of Waterloo. The history of almost every age shows us, more
and more, how the character of one man, who is supreme in a
country, may impel, and even seem to inspire, the faculties of
the nation he governs. Such leading personages have not been
few in our own times; and during the frequent opportunities
HONOURS PAID TO THE PRINCE. 255
which occurred, of these sort of conversations being repeated
with his Royal Highness of Persia, I could not but think, that I
saw before me the man whose powerful and liberal mind was to
create a new epoch in the national consequence of his future
kingdom. .
The whole country was still deeply covered with snow; but
from the manifest influence of the sun on it's surface, more genial
weather might soon be expected. Our first halting-place was Bos-
meech, which we reached early in the afternoon; a distance from
Tabreez of three farsangs; a farsang being an hour's travel, or four
miles. It is a neat village, watered by a stream of the same
name, which flows into the Augi. In these places, the Prince is
seldom better lodged than any khan of his train; and to such
temporary inconvenience, he shows the unaffected indifference
of a really manly mind. But before our entrance into Bosmeech, I
witnessed a very singular kind of ceremony; a custom of this
country, performed in honour of the sovereign's approach to any
town, or considerable village in his dominions. A concourse of
people appeared, coming towards us and leading forward a cow,
which they brought near to the Prince, and instantly immolated
at the feet of his horse. A signal from Abbas Mirza, to prevent
so disagreeable a compliment, was not observed in the hurry of
the scene; and the poor animal's blood flowed all over the path
we must pass. Besides this, another act of respect is performed,
by breaking a vessel containing sugar or honey, in the way of
the Prince; after that, the cavalcade moves on.
I enquired of several of the best informed Persians, the mean-
ing of the former ceremony. The latter, we can easily resolve
into a figure of proffered gift of all the breaker of the vessel
of plenty possesses; a tribute from the subject to the sovereign;
256 PROGRESS OF THE CAVALCADE.
and when any thing similar is done to persons of less rank,
such as showering sweetmeats upon them, it must then be con-
sidered a pledge of hospitality. With regard to the slaughter of
the animal, the persons I addressed could give no account, only
that it was an old custom, and, probably from the days of
paganism. Two explanations, seem to present themselves; either
that the immolation was originally intended as a grateful tribute
to the gods, for the honour of the royal visit; or, that the act
was one of idolatry to the Prince himself. If we are to take it in
the latter sense, we may, perhaps, date the practice from the
time of the Sassanian kings; who, styling themselves “a race of
the gods,” might accept with favour, such homage, as due to
their divinity. The victims devoted vary in value, from a camel
to a lamb, according to the consequence of the town or village
that makes the oblation. - -
Signals from a bugle regulated the movements of the caval-
cade, each time that we left our place of rest. It sounded thrice.
The first signal was for the baggage to set forward; the last sig-
nal, which sounded generally about two hours after the departure
of the first division, gave notice that the Prince's foot was in
the stirrup. According to this rotation of movement, we set
forward at an early hour from Bosmeech, and proceeded in the
order of the preceding day. -
Our course lay about S. 50 E. through the snow, and over a
very narrow road, beaten into a path by the caravans which had
travelled that way during the winter. Owing to the hilly line
of the country, and the depth of the snow in the valley where
the road was, the whole multitude of these caravans were obliged
to range themselves in file, and so follow man after man, between
the walls of snow, which had become too condensed to allow of
KOOROOGATE, OR THE DRY POND. 257
any deviation on one side or the other. The unsocial dimen-
sions of the road, as well as the severity of the weather, so
pressed our faculties, as apparently to “bind up every sense in
alabaster;” and so evident was the effect, that even the usual
clatter, and various noises, belonging to the goolam division in
our rear, were hushed into some respect for the benumbing
demon of the scene. In about an hour and a half's slow march-
ing in this impeded way, we reached a very close defile, between
rocks of a peculiarly wild and romantic character, shooting up
into castellated towers and spires, projecting into huge buttresses,
or receding into the sides of the chasm, deep and caverned.
Amongst these picturesque battlements of nature, at the mouth
of the ravine, we found the ruins of a caravansary. The situation
of this pass might make it the gate of the valley; it being so
happily formed, that a very small force could maintain it against
the largest body. It is known by the name of the Pass of Sibley;
and the line of the mountain it intersects, runs in a direction
N. E. and S. W. We crossed the range, over all its wide com-
pass of snow, with nothing in view but the heads of hills, rising
one over the other, covered with the same hoary veil. The air
cut like a sword, till we descended to lower ground, where we
found a large circular dell, entirely surrounded with a high natural
embankment, formed by the hillocks diverging from the moun-
tain's sides. It is called Kooroogate, or the Dry Pond, and was
the lake mentioned in this place by Tavernier. Not far from it,
in a valley amidst the mountains, and bearing from hence N. E.,
may be seen a very singular cave. It runs to an unknown depth
into the body of the rock; is very high from the floor to the top
of its vaulted roof; and the rough ledges, along the whole interior,
afford shelter for the nests of innumerable wild pigeons, and
VOL. I. L L * -
258 PLAIN OF OUJAN.
other birds. The atmosphere is perfectly safe at the entrance of
the cavern, and indeed to a considerable distance inward. But
should curiosity prompt a traveller to pass a particular stone,
which is set up as a warning, the change in the air becomes so
instantaneous, as to destroy the trespasser with the first breath
he draws. The experiment has been frequently tried by Euro-
pean travellers, on sheep, dogs, and other animals, and the
threatened effect has never failed. That the deadly exhalation
does not rise high in the cavern, is proved by the birds, which
are its inhabitants, flying backwards and forwards over the inter-
dicted spot, without suffering the consequences that might have
been anticipated.
Having journeyed several hours through these narrow moun-
tain-labyrinths, we gradually advanced into an open country;
but limited, though at a great distance, with the usual gigantic
boundaries. It is called the Plain of Oujan, and being one of
the certain halting-places of the Prince Royal, between his own
capital and that of the empire, about six years ago he caused a
commodious palace to be built here, for the convenience of himself
and his family. The free air of the plain, and the beauty of its cir-
cumjacent scenery, induced him to fix particularly on this spot,
which he often makes his residence during the summer months.
When His Royal Highness halted there, I proceeded with one
of the European gentlemen in his service, to Kara-Baba, a village
finely situated on the side of the hills. We had travelled this
day, ten hours, a distance of nine farsangs. I found my quarters
very good; but had they consisted of little more than bare walls,
I should have experienced no want; for the Prince lost no time
in sending whatever he thought it possible I might require; and
he “seasoned the bounteous attention,” with a gracious message
INCIDENTS ON THE JOURNEY. 259
of regret, that I must find travelling, and particularly at so
inclement a season, so much more incommodious in his country,
than in my own. * .
Next morning, myself and my little party, accompanied by
my new and valuable acquaintance Dr. De la Fosse, set forward
at sun-rise. Kara-Baba being some distance from the main road,
I deemed it proper to start before the usual hour, that we might
be ready to fall in with the column, by the time His Royal
Highness would join it. Our haste, however, was rather pre-
mature; for it brought us out on the road, just at a point to meet
the ladies of the Prince's family. They always leave the royal
quarters at dawn, to be less observed, and to arrive at the next
Menzil (halting-place,) before the Prince himself. They were
five in number, dressed in scarlet, with rich shawls over their
heads and faces; and riding astride, on the most beautiful and
spirited horses. We drew back, at the first glance of this fair
vision, and waited till it passed. These ladies composed part
only of the usual inhabitants of His Royal Highness's Anderoon;
but they were selected to attend him, while at Teheran; and
were guarded on the journey by ten or twelve eunuchs, with
the addition of a well-armed company of horse.
Soon after the whole party were out of sight, the baggage-train
made its appearance, bearing similar marks of the august per-
sonage to whom it belonged, being covered with red and blue
cloths. A tack-i-ravan was in the procession; which is a
brankard or litter, borne on poles between two strong mules;
both it and them being also clothed in scarlet, with rich fringe
and other ornaments. This equipage is intended for any of the
women who may be fatigued, or indisposed. The peculiar con-
struction and state of the roads during winter, make horse and
L L 2
260 EXCESSIVE COLD.
litter-carriage the only modes of travelling at that season of the
- year. But the Prince has an Fnglish chariot, which he always
uses in summer, the roads being then in a condition to admit its
progress without impediment; and, I am told, he travels in it at
a rate equal to any expedition of the kind in Europe. He is
particularly fond of its seclusion and celerity. W
This day was more intensely cold than the preceding, because
its extreme degree of frost was accompanied with a terrible wind
from the east, which, in our line of march, blew almost direct in
our faces. It is not the simple degree of cold, which in general
occasions the fatal catastrophes, I have described a few pages
before; these bitter winds are the assassins of life. They blow
with a suddenness, and a fierceness, of which we, in more western
climates, can have no idea; rushing down the long valleys be-,
tween the snow-cased mountains, like streams of pointed ice,
penetrating every pore, freezing the blood, and feeling to congeal
the very brain. When I experienced all this so severely in my
own person, I could not but commiserate those of the weaker
sex, who were exposed to such pitiless elements. The custom
of the country makes such exposure a necessity ; or, rather, the
mountainous surface of the country, by denying the practicability
to these novice engineers, of constructing more commodious
roads, has originated a custom, which habit only, to a woman,
can divest of many horrors. It is at such moments, that a man
appreciates the comprehensive value of European civilization,
when he considers how it provides for every physical and moral
want of humanity; how it subdues even nature herself; for no
mountain-land, no waste wilderness, has ever yet been found to
resist its smoothing footsteps. While I drew this comparison,
so much to the advantage, not merely of European laws and regu-
PERSIAN ACCOMMODATIONS FOR TRAVELLERS. 261
lations, but of European roads and equipages, particularly where
the softer sex were concerned, I could not but admire the manly
spectacle of a great Prince, sharing every personal hardship, with
the very meanest of his attendants, which rigorous skies and the
most ruggéd paths could inflict.
We continued our march, this day, along the plain in the same
direction with our route of yesterday; and passed a second pic-
turesque caravansary, abandoned to decay, which stood on the
side of a gentle acclivity, mingling its fallen arches with the grey
rocks; the slanted beams of the wintry sun tinging them with a
pale and cheerless light. An hour's further travel brought us
in sight of a third caravansary; but this was in full preserv-
ation, very ample in its dimensions, and sheltered within a
hollow of the plain. A little mountain-stream ran close by its
towers. They were strong, and in perfect repair. Every thing
was provided within, for the accommodation of the traveller. A
blacksmith, with his forge, and all necessary implements, and a
shop or warehouse, containing various articles likely to be re-
quired. It was the first establishment of the kind I had seen in
Persia; and I stopped to compare it with others I had occupied on
the other side of the frontiers. The examination was certainly in
favour of the Persian; and I could not deny myself the pleasure
of telling the Prince so, in the course of our conversation that
day. To flatter men in their selfish pursuits, is one thing; to
praise them for attention to public benefit, is another; and as
the seed is sown, so will the harvest grow. ... • *
As we proceeded, we left the village of Tickmadash on our
right. It is one of the regular posts for travellers from Tabreez
to Teheran; but our quarters for the night were to be at Ama-
dabad, which we reached after a march of six hours. It stands
262 WALLEY OF AMADABAD.
in a valley, on the side of a hill, near to the little river Sharrary-
chia. As we approached it towards sun-set, the appearance of
the place, under the vague shadows of the mountain, wore an
aspect of considerable consequence; we saw not only the appear-
ance of a long stretch of houses, but one of the neighbouring
heights was surmounted by a fortress of extensive walls, and
a large tower in their centre. When we drew near, I found the
village small, though neat, and the fortress a ruin. Of what
date, I could not discover; for this old bulwark being constructed
of mud dried in the sun, (like many others of the country.) the
materials, when left to decay, moulder into mounds and ridges;
obliterating all trace of their history, with the loss of their form ;
and hence, their origin is commonly forgotten, as soon as their
neglect and ruin begins.
Next morning, being only the third of our journey, opened
upon us with the weather equally severe, and a much more
exposed route for the day. The first part of our road lay through
the rocky valley of Amadabad, along the edge of its frozen river,
and in a direction nearly due east. Having passed several well-
built villages, scattered over the rising grounds on each side, we
ascended a steep mountain, by a path curving to the north-east,
which terminated in a plain on the summit. This kind of table-
land, was broken by detached hills over its surface; amongst
which we took our course north-eastward for some time, and
then began to descend, on as abrupt a road as that by which we
had gained the summit. This rough mountain-track brought us
down into a long and very narrow valley, at the extremity of
which lay the village of Turcoman-chia; a distance from Ama-
dabad, of eight farsangs, and which we travelled in nine hours.
The village is pleasantly situated on the side of a pretty stream,
bearing the same name with itself.
MIANNA. 263
We recommenced our march next morning, at seven o’clock,
through a range of intersecting small plains, or dells, divided by
low hills; a road that must be beautiful in summer, from the
variety of its verdure and foliage; but the landscape, at this
season, continued a monotonous white; and the path was as
wintery as the prospect. With difficulty we travelled a distance
of six farsangs in eight hours; and reached the town of Mianna
almost frozen to death. From a peculiar circumstance connected
with the natural history of this place, I have little doubt that it
is the same city, which our often-marvellous, and sometimes
veritable countryman Maundeville, mentions, as “lyinge in the
way from Thauriso (Tabreez,) towards the East, where no Cris-
tene man may long dwelle, ne enduren with life in that cytee,
but dyen within short tyme, and no man knowethe the cause.”
This was written nearly five hundred years ago; but what was
mystery then, has been explained in after-ages. And a knowledge
of the “detheful cause” excited a more than ordinary degree of
ire in myself and my honest interpreter against the mehmandar,
who, as usual, had been sent forward to provide my lodgings.
From excessive indolence, he had hitherto performed his office
in a rather slovenly way; but caring for little beyond a dry and
clean shelter, the matter passed away without more than a slight
reprimand. But on my arrival at Mianna, I found he had so
entirely neglected his duty, as to be only then looking out for
quarters for me. At this place above all others, from the cause
before intimated, this service ought to have been promptly and
carefully executed. In short, it is at the hazard of a stranger's
life, if the lodgings he is made to occupy be not perfectly fresh
and clean ; for the town, and its immediately adjacent villages, are
infested with a plague, they have found it impossible to eradicate,
264 …” POISONOUS BUGS.
in the form of a small but poisonous bug. It breeds in myriads
in all the old houses, and may be seen creeping over every part
of their walls, of the size and shape of the bugs in Europe, only
a little flatter, and in colour of a bright red. Its bite is mortal,
producing death at the expiration of eight or nine months.
Strangers of every sort, not merely foreigners, but persons not
usually inhabiting the town or its vicinity, are liable to be thus
poisoned; while the people themselves, or the adjacent peasantry,
are either never bitten, or, if so, the consequences are not more
baneful to them than the sting of the least noxious insect. The
fatal effect of this bug, however, upon “payneme,” as well “as
Cristene men,” if they are strangers, being known as an absolute
fact, every precaution is taken accordingly by native and foreign
travellers; and when myself, with my Persian interpreter, and
servants, entered the town of peril, I lost no time in demanding
our proper quarters of my mehmandor. On our addressing him,
he did nothing but gape and stare about him, as if struck by
some magician's staff into more than his wonted stupidity.
Persuasions, exhortations, and threats, were tried in vain. But
remembering that one wand might break the spell of another,
for once I had recourse to the efficacy of my cossack's whip; and
it was surprising to see the happy change. The man started as
from a dream, bestirred himself with alacrity, and showed such
àIl increase of respect in his deportment towards myself, as if he
had required that act of authority, to assure him I was worthy
the honour of his services. From that time, all went well with
my mehmandar; and he Soon procured me possession of an
entirely new-built stable, perfectly clean and unoccupied ; a
more estimable lodgement, at Mianna, than an old palace. The
lower part received my horses, with their attendants; and the
MIANNA. - 265
upper division, used as a dwelling for the horse-keepers, was
speedily arranged for myself and little party. Carpets Were spread,
a good fire kindled; and the arrival of the royal fare made every
restitution for the first hour's houseless wandering. •
The town of Mianna is situated in a wide valley, closed to the
south-east by the lofty mountains of the Koflan-Kou. It was
formerly a place of so much consequence, as to incline some
authors to ascribe to it the honour of having been the ancient
capital of the famous province of Atropatia. But the best-
informed writers, and Pliny amongst them, give that distinction
to Gazae, (l. vi.) that is, Ganzaka, or Tabreez. Mianna, at present,
is a poor place, being best known by the ill-name of its bugs;
though it carries on a tolerable trade, as the mart where a small
and beautiful manufacture of carpets is deposited by the nomade
tribes from the mountains. These wild people weave them
with a strength and taste, that is quite astonishing, and gain from
their sale a very considerable profit. -
Our next day's route was over more interesting ground. We
started at sun-rise; our road being up the valley, and bearing
from Mianna S. E. towards the mountains which close its ex-
tremity at that point. We rode on, in this direction, full five
miles. In our way, we crossed a fine bridge, built of brick, over
the river Garongoo. This stream, which diminishes to a rivulet,
or increases to a flood, according to the seasons of the year, rises
in the hills to the south-west, and after traversing the plain of
the valley, soon after loses itself in the spacious bed and rapid
current of the Kizzilouzan. The broad track of the plain allowed
our cavalcade to extend itself into the more diffuse order of
march, in which they set out from Tabreez; and the various
groups, which scattered themselves over the constantly changing
VOL. I. - M M
266 MOUNTAINS OF KOFLAN-KOU.
Asiatic landscape, formed the finest characteristic pictures,
though in winter scenes, that could be imagined for the illus-
tration of ancient or modern eastern story.
In this seemingly desultory, though in fact well-understood
way of proceeding, (for no one really strayed from the column of
march,) we gradually approached the foot of the chain of moun-
tains at the head of the valley, which here separate the province
of Azerbijan from IRAK, once so considerable a part of the fa-
mous kingdom of Media. These mountains, as I have mentioned
before, are called the Koflan-Kou. They are of very stupendous
altitude; and are a branch of the sublime range which belongs
to Kurdistan. Besides the grandeur of their form, which well
accords with the character of a country whose ancient laws, like
these everlasting ramparts, were immoveable, the varied hue of
their rocks gives a magnificence to the scene, admirably adapted
to the recollections of a man, on entering the more particular
dominions of the great Cyrus. In one branch of these mountains,
which is called that of Koolabose, are the royal iron, copper, and
lead mines; a treasure of riches, which, if properly worked,
would fill the coffers of the Persian monarch to overflowing.
The road up the side of the mountain which closes the long
valley of Mianna, was steep, winding, intricate, and very dan-
gerous, from the slipperiness of the ice; which, from that cir-
cumstance, is nearly impassable in these precipitous regions.
About mid-way of the ascent, the ruins of an ancient and noble
fortress presented themselves. Chardin conjectures it to have
been a stronghold of Artaxerxes alias Ardashir. Its situation in
the pass, sufficiently shows the use to which it was designed ;
and this commanding station, with the peculiar style of the for-
midable remains, leave no doubt in my mind, that it was an
‘.4 *
, ſº
• * * : *
KIZZILOUZAN RIVER, 267
&
&
erection of the earliest times, by some of the great captains of
ºld, who so well understood how to “keep the gate” of their con-
quests. The principal road of communication between Media
and Armenia, has always lain over this tremendous mountain;
and parts of a wide stone causeway, said to have been built by
Shah Abbas, are yet very traceable. The present Prince-royal
has been at great labour to restore this pass to all its ancient
practicability; and even to go beyond his predecessors, by making
it capable for the conveyance of artillery. Impossible as that
might seem, to an eye fixed on the daily accumulating impedi-
ments with which winter encumbers so alpine a road, I am
assured, that in summer, cannon pass over its heights with very
little difficulty. * .
On descending the south-eastern face of the mountains, we
had an extensive view of the valley below; whose romantic low-
land scenery, and the sublime immensity of its boundaries, I had
not seen excelled in the most stupendous regions of the Cau-
casus. A fine river flowed through the beautifully undulating
land, and a noble bridge, of three pointed arches, crossed it.
This river, which was the Amardus of Ptolemy, and said to have
been the Gozen of Scripture, owes its present appellation, the
Kizzilouzan, to its yellow hue, the name being descriptive of
such a peculiarity. Its course is very rapid, though in a serpen-
tine direction; and being augmented by several streams which
rise near the town of Banna, amongst the north-eastern branch
of the Kurdistan mountains, it pours majestically along, through
a vast stretch of hilly country northward, till it enters Ghilan;
where, thundering forward amidst the most terrific'scenery, it
discharges itself at last, into the Caspian, to the east of Resht.

M M 2
268 IRAK.
Having crossed the bridge, we set our foot on the land of Irak.
Ajem, a country so famed in Asiatic romance, classic history, * : .
and Holy Writ. Our road then lay north-east, directly over the
mountains, which bound that side of the valley. The ascending
track was winding, with abrupt curves, up very steep acclivities
for full three miles, at the end of which we reached another
commodious caravansary, built of brick. Near it, are the ruins
of an older structure of the kind, which has been faced with
hewn stone. The vicinity of this secluded spot has a painful
interest attached to it, as having been the scene of a dreadful
and mysterious murder, committed on the person of the cele-
brated traveller, Mr. Browne: this sad catastrophe happened
about five or six years ago. .
This gentleman was a man of indefatigable research ; with a
persevering industry, in acquiring the means of pursuing his
object, equal to the enterprising spirit with which he breasted
every difficulty in his way. Previous to his going to Persia, he
had stopped some time in Constantinople, to perfect himself in
the Turkish language; and before he left that city, he spoke it
like a native. From a mistaken idea of facilitating his progress,
amongst the different Asiatic nations through which he might
have occasion to pass, in the route he had laid down for himself,
he assumed the Turkish dress. Being thus equipped, he set
forward, with an intent to penetrate through Khorasan; and
thence visit the unexplored and dangerous regions south of the
Caspian, closing his researches in that direction at Astrakhan.
During the early part of his Persian journey, he had a confer-
ence with His Britannic Majesty's ambassador, Sir Gore Ouse-
ley; and at Oujon, was admitted to an audience of the Persian
->º
MURDER OF MR. BROWNE. 269
King. So little was danger from attacks of any kind appre-
- hended, by the persons best acquainted with the state of the
country, that no difficulties whatever were suggested as likely to
meet him ; and, accordingly, he proceeded in full confidence.
Having reached this pass of Irak, he stopped at the caravansary
I have just described, to take a little refreshment. That over,
he remounted his horse; and leaving his servant to pack up the
articles he had been using, and then follow him, he rode gently
forward along the mountains. Mr. Browne had scarcely pro-
ceeded half-a-mile, when suddenly two men on foot came up
behind him ; one of whom, with a blow from a club, before he
was aware, struck him senseless from his horse. Several other
villains, at the same instant sprang from hollows in the hills, and
bound him hand and foot. At this moment they offered him no
further personal violence; but as soon as he had recovered from
the stupor, occasioned by the first mode of attack, he looked
round, and saw the robbers plundering both his baggage and his
servant; the man having come forward on the road, in obedience
to the commands of his master. When the depredators found
their victim restored to observation, they told him it was their
intention to put an end to his life, but that was not the place
where the final stroke should be made. Mr. Browne, incapable
of resistance, calmly listened to his own sentence, but entreated
them to spare his poor servant, and allow him to depart with his
papers, which could be of no use to them. All this they granted;
and, what may appear still more extraordinary, these ferocious
brigands, to whom the acquisition of arms must be as the staff
of life, made the man a present of his master's pistols, and
double-barrelled gun ; but they were English, and the marks
might have betrayed the new possessors. These singular rob-
270 MURDER OF MR. BROWNE.
bers then permitted Mr. Browne to see his servant safe out of
sight, before they laid further hands on himself; after which
they carried him, and the property they had reserved for them-
selves, into a valley on the opposite side of the Kizzilouzan, and
without further parley terminated his existence, it is supposed,
by strangulation. They stripped his corpse of every part of its
raiment, and then left it on the open ground, a prey to wolves
and other wild animals. The servant, meanwhile, made the best
of his way towards Tabreez, where he related the tale I have
just told. .
Abbas Mirza immediately dispatched several parties of horse-
men; some into the pass of the caravansary, to search its neigh-
bourhood and others towards the spot where the circumstantial
details of the man, repeating what he had heard pass between
the murderers, made it likely that Mr. Browne was to receive
the fatal blow. After diligent search, the body was found in the
latter place, in the condition I have described, and by the
prince's orders brought carefully to Akhand, and buried with
decency. His Royal Highness made every exertion to discover
the perpetrators of this nefarious deed; but to this moment the
individuals remain unknown; though hardly a doubt exists, that
the people who committed it, were part of some roving and
desperate band of Kurds, who could not resist the temptation
of an almost solitary traveller. Previous to the reign of His
present Majesty of Persia, and the active government, in this
quarter, of his son, numerous parties of these brigands used to
lurk near the bridge of the pass, and commit the most horrible
ravage on the caravans, and all persons who fell in their way.
But ever since these princes have enacted such determined laws
against rapine and murder, this northern part of the kingdom,
CAUTIONS TO TRAVELLERS. - 271
in particular, has been so free from any disasters of the kind,
that it is said, a traveller may now pass, at any time, on the high
roads from Tabreez to the capital of Persia, and thence to Ispa-
han, in almost perfect safety. Mr. Browne depending, doubtless,
on this known fact of security, as well as being too indifferent to
the usual forms of proceeding, declined the attendance of a
mehmandar, which the king had graciously offered to him in
person. When His Majesty was informed of the melancholy
story, he declared a great indignation against so bold an insult to
his law; but he also intimated his disapprobation of Mr. Browne
having refused the customary protection proposed; and indeed
it is probable, that the presence of a regular Persian officer,
appointed by the crown, would have prevented the whole affair.
Before I leave this subject, so lasting a cause of lamentation
to his countrymen, and to the learned world, I cannot forbear
offering two observations, that may be useful to travellers in
strange countries. First, never to adopt the entire costume of
any nation but his own ; for, by so doing, he deprives himself
of the safe conduct bestowed from respect to his country; and
he loses all claim to the rights of hospitality, by assuming a
character that he is not. There is nothing so dangerous to a
man in a foreign country, as to affect mystery, and awaken sus-
picion. My second observation would suggest the propriety
of a traveller never trusting his life within the protection of
one man alone. In case of an assault from numbers, a single
auxiliary would be no defence; and sometimes, that single arm,
in a moment of temptation and opportunity, might be found too
strong for an unguarded master. Nothing of this kind, however,
can be charged on the faithful servant of Mr. Browne; and,
mysterious as the circumstances are, it is sufficiently evident,
272 y SARCHAM.
that a band of Kurds, too sagacious for detection, and too
expert in retreat to be traced, were the assassins of our unfor-
tunate countryman.
The remainder of our road, for this day, lay along a mountain-
plain, between low hills, and through broken ravines, at the
north-eastern extremity of which stands the village of Sarcham;
a new establishment, built by the son of Mirza Bezourk, the
present vizier of Abbas Mirza. Its inhabitants are Kurds, who,
like most of their nation, lead a nomade life in summer, ranging
about the country in search of pasture for their flocks. The
river Deezy flows in a northern direction, close to the village;
whence it takes a sinuous course, till it meets the Kizzilouzan,
and becomes one with that fine river. Sarcham lies six farsangs
from Mianna. About half a mile eastward on the road, stands
an immense caravansary, built of stone, in which most of the
Prince's horsemen were quartered. As His Royal Highness,
and his train, would occupy almost every house in the village,
the inhabitants made room for us, by betaking themselves to
their summer abodes, the black tents; a terrible transfer at this
inclement season. The place is neatly walled and towered, and
commands a view of an extensive valley, nearly three miles in
length, through which meanders the river in its way to Sarcham.
We quitted these elevated lodgings, at eight o'clock next
morning, in the midst of a violent storm of sleet, rain, and
snow, accompanied by a piercing easterly wind. The atmosphere
was so obscure, we could not see twenty yards in any direction.
Our road lay along the northern side of this upland valley, on
the bank of the Deezy, which here flowed south-east, and
where the heights in some measure sheltered us; but in about
two hours we turned due north, crossing a ridge of high hills
KAIR AN. . 273
in the very teeth of the tempest. Having descended their
slippery sides at the risk of broken bones at least, for still
nothing could be distinguished far before our horses' feet,
we found ourselves in another part of the Deerzy valley,
and again on the margin of that river, which had taken as
winding a circuit as ourselves. Journeying on, we passed a
caravansary fallen into ruin from disuse, and the crumbling walls
of an old deserted village. At this point, the road struck off
north-east, between low hills; and, in an hour more, we arrived
at Kairan, a pretty village, situated on a gentle slope, surrounded
by gardens, and watered by a small stream called the Kara-
kairan. Wet and frozen, I gladly saw the open gates, and
hurried to the refuge of a roof and comfortable fire.
In most of the village-houses, which had been my quarters
during this winter-journey, I had found a regular hearth for
whatever kind of fuel the family were accustomed to burn ;
but in some, where the fire-place had been omitted, a very
sorry expedient presented itself, in the shape of a large jar,
called a kourcy, which is sunk in the earth, generally in the
middle of the room, with its mouth on a level with the floor.
This, the people fill with wood, dung, or any other combustible;
and when it is sufficiently chared, the mouth of the vessel is
shut in, with a square wooden frame, shaped like a low table.
The whole is then covered with a thick wadded quilt; under
which the family, ranged round, place their knees, to allow the
hot vapour to insinuate itself into every fold of their clothing.
When very cold, they draw the borders of the quilt up as high as
their chins, and form a group, something resembling our ideas
of a wizard incantation. This mode of warming is very dis-
agreeable, and often dangerous. In the first place, the immove-
VOL. I. N N
274 ZANGOON.
able position, necessary to receiving the full benefit of the
glowing embers; secondly, the nauseous, and often deleterious
effluvia from the smoke; and, thirdly, the head–aches which are
almost always the consequence. Many of the natives put their
heads and shoulders under the quilt at night; but if the fuel
have not been previously chared to the proper height, suffocation
is the usual effect, and the incautious sleepers are found dead
in the morning. This singular kind of chauffoir answers a
double purpose; that of preparing the frugal meal of the family,
either as an oven, or to admit the pot on its embers, which boils
the meat or pottage. Barbarous as the usage may seem, the
kourcy is not confined to the wild inhabitants of the mountains;
it is found in the noblest mansions of the cities, but burning
more agreeable fuel; and then the ladies sit, from morning till
night, under the rich draperies spread over the wooden cover;
awakening their slumbering senses from the soporific influence
of its vapours, by occasional cups of coffee, or the delightful
fumes of their kalioun.
We left Kairan at eight the next morning, in a direction
south-east ; and in spirits, like the changed atmosphere, light,
and freed from gloom. The hills wore one untracked surface,
from the snow of the preceding day; and our old annoyance, a
strong east wind, continued to blow in our faces ; but the
weather was now clear; earth, and sky, could be seen to a vast
distance around us; and we went cheerily on, over a succession
of finely undulating hills and dales, till we reached the town of
Zangoon, or Zanjahoon, a distance of about five farsangs from
our last halting-place. This town is of considerable extent,
and makes a very handsome appearance, as we approach its
well-built walls, fortified according to the present style of the
ZANGOON. . 275
country. As usual, they are of dried mud; high, and flanked
with strong towers, pierced with long ranges of loop-holes, and
funnel-like contrivances close beneath them, to act on an enemy
in the manner of the machicolations in our ancient castle-
gateways. Zangoon is the capital of a small district called
Kumesey, which is under the government of Abdallah Mirza,
one of the King's sons. -
This royal personage had already left the place, for Teheran,
when we arrived ; and his elder brother, the heir to the Persian
diadem, showed so much displeasure at finding no preparation
had been ordered for his reception, he would not accept of any
thing from the town; but commanded, that every thing his suite
might require, should be purchased as if he had been a stranger.
This was a delicate reproval of his brother's negligence; and we
quitted the inhospitable residence of the young prince, at our
usual hour the next morning. Our track was through deep
snow, keeping a direction south-east, up the valley, which gra-
dually extended itself into an extensive plain.
After marching about three farsangs, over this magnificent
expanse of country, we beheld the dome and minarets of
Sultania, rising in all the majesty of the old eastern architecture;
and over which, the vague recollections of history, with tra-
ditional memory, cast a still more magnifying medium.
On approaching nearer to this once splendid city, we passed
a lately erected summer-palace, belonging to the present king;
it was situated on an elevated ground to our left, and over-
looking the battlemented walls of a large castellated structure,
intended to be the citadel of the new town of Sultanabad; which
the reigning monarch hopes will in time rival the past glories
of the fallen Sultania.
N -
N
2
276. - SULTANIA.
An hour's ride brought us into the midst of the ruins ;
amongst whose broken arches, and mouldering remains of all
sorts of superb Asiatic architecture, I discovered the most
wretched-looking hovels of any I had seen in Persia. Amongst
these miserable dwellings, inhabited by a few poor husbandmen
of the plain, the whole suite were to be scattered. But the
Prince, sharing every disagreeable of the journey, entered one
of the meanest huts; and, to my surprise, established himself
there, instead of retiring to the splendid residence in the neigh-
bourhood, which, doubtless, would have been at his command.
Sultania may be about six farsangs from Kairan ; and, accord-
ing to observations taken by some British officers in Persia, the
ancient city is in latitude 36° 32. It is situated on a fine plain,
or, we might rather call it, one of those very extensive valleys,
which spread themselves to a vast extent through the different
intermediate ranges of this gigantic mountain-country. The
fertility of the vale of Sultania has been noted for many ages;
and, I am told, it still maintains that happy reputation. The
miserable huts in the deserted city do not witness the same
account; but, as I have hinted before, prosperity of every sort,
in this part of the world, bears its acquisitions meekly. The
plain is bounded to the north-east, and south-west, by chains of
hills, of every picturesque form, and covered in summer with the
most luxuriant verdure. Some writers give the city no older a
date than the seven hundredth and fifth year of the Hejira;
ascribing its foundation to Sultan Aldjiapton Mahomed, son of
Urghan Khan, a prince, perhaps, better known by the title
of Sultan Mahomed Khodabund. A Persian manuscript, written
about a century after this supposed origin of Sultania, calls it
“ a new city, between Casvin and Zengoon, extremely splendid;
sulTANIA. 277
in the most delightful part of the country, with a celestial atmo-
sphere; and numerous palaces, both for the king, his viziers, and
emirs, adding to its magnificence.”—“ Without the city,” con-
tinues the same writer, “are delicious gardens, supplied with
excellent water from wells. The Sultan Abousayd (who was the
son of Mahomed Khodabund, and the last of the Halukoo race,
which ceased A. D. 1392,) began a superb building in the city,
but died before its completion. His remains, however, repose
within its walls. In ancient days, the Princes of Ghattham
passed their summers here; and then it was called the plain of
Scharoizk.” -
This writer, so near the time of the city’s attributed origin to
Sultan Mahomed Khodabund, allows that it had been a place of
royal residence “ in ancient days,” before; and it seems hardly
to be doubted, that the singular felicity of the situation, would,
from all ages of the Persian empire, be occupied by some town;
which might change its appellation according to the whim of the
different princes, who, after embellishing the place, might choose
to give it a new name. Besides, the aggrandizer of a city is
very likely to be complimented with the title of its founder.
Something of the kind may hereafter occur again, with regard
to Sultania. His present Majesty is now restoring the city, by
gradually building around, and amongst its ruins: should it
proceed, as he designs, future Persian traditions may altogether
forget the past towers of Sultania, and assert that the first city
on the plain was that of Sultanabad, and that its founder, of
course, was Futy Ali Shah. -
The Persian manuscript I have just quoted, makes a mistake
in attributing the unfinished structure in Sultania, to Abousayd
it was the work of that prince's father, Sultan Mahomed Khoda-
278 Mosque of SULTAN KHODABUND.
bund, the first sovereign of Persia who publicly declared himself
of the sect of Ali. He built it, as a sacred shrine for the remains
of that Caliph, and his no less holy martyr Hossien ; intending,
when it was finished, to translate the bodies, with all religious
pomp, from Meshed Ali, and Kerbela, to their new tomb. But
the pious Sultan did not live to complete his object; and instead
of the venerated relics, his own ashes occupied the place, which
he had hoped, when tenanted according to his intentions, would
cause Sultania to be a point of future pilgrimage, as revered by
the faithful of his own empire, as Medina had heretofore been to
Mussulmans in general.
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MOSQUE OF SULTAN KHODABUND. 279
Mr. Morier's accurate delineation of this fine, though now
mouldering fabric, has hardly left any thing more to be said; but
to omit entirely its description here, because another had else-
where done it so well, would leave so great a blank in my own
account of the city, that I shall shortly describe the falling mau-
soleum, as it appeared to me a few years after it had been visited
by Mr. Morier.
The height of the dome certainly exceeds one hundred and
thirty feet; the diameter of the circle below is thirty-three paces.
The whole interior of the building presents one uninterrupted
space; but to the south, is a large distinct chamber, choked up
with rubbish; under the floor of which, I was told, are three
immense vaulted rooms; the entrance to them is now lost, under
the ruins above; but in one, stands the tomb of the Sultan
Mahomed Khodabund, raised from the earth. The inside of the
whole mosque, which covers these royal remains, is beautifully
painted, and tiled with varied porcelain. Much gilding is yet to
be seen upon the upright and transverse lines of decoration;
amongst which, it is said, the whole Koran is written in orna-
mented characters. It required a Mussulman’s eye to find them
out, in the varied labyrinth of arabesque patterns with which
they were surrounded. Formerly, the whole building was inclosed
within a square, of three hundred yards. Its ditch is still visible
to a great depth; and at the north-west angle, stands part of a
large tower, and a wall, forty feet in height, built of fine large
square masses of hewn stone, excellently cemented together;
the thickness of the wall being twelve feet. On the top, still
remain a number of the pedestals, belonging to the machicolated,
parapet. Two Arabic inscriptions are yet distinct on the wall
and the tower; but I could not find any person to translate them.
280 MOSQUE OF SULTAN KHODABUND.
The late mollah of the place, who might have been the inter-
preter, had recently paid the debt of nature: but one of the
natives told me, from memory, that the purport of the inscrip-
tions were merely to say, that that mosque had been built five
hundred and seventy-five years ago. All the proportions and
decorations of this vast structure are in the most splendid Asiatic
taste; but the blue, green, and golden tiles, with which it has
been coated, are rapidly disappearing; yet enough remains to
give an idea of the original beauty of the whole. The ruins of
other superb mosques are still conspicuous in many parts of the
city; and all seem to have been on so extensive a scale, that we
can only stand in amazement at the former magnitude of a place,
which at present scarcely numbers three hundred families. When
the Holstein ambassadors were in Persia, A. D. 1637, even
then, the waning city contained six thousand people. How has
it been reduced since, in little more than a century and a half!
The walls of its ancient houses, and spacious gardens, cover a
great streatch of the plain; and in some places, we find large
black mounds of earth, where, I imagine, the public baths stood.
Most of the village huts, which were our quarters, are built
round the superb royal mosque, above described; forming a
strange contrast with the venerable pile which overshadows
them. The roofs of these lowly dwellings are a perfect half-
circle, like a bee-hive, with a hole in the centre, to admit light,
and let out the smoke; thus, in shape at least, differing from
most other Persian villages I had seen, the roofs of which were
either flat or of a conical form.
Having made my arrangements for the night, in one of the
huts, I went as usual with my Persian, Sedek Beg, to pay my
respects to my royal host, soon after sun-set, his time of evening
CONDESCENSION OF ABBAS MIRZA. 281
prayer; and I found the Prince of Persia, under a roof as humble
as my own. He was sitting over a kourcy, almost enveloped in
its cover; which was blue silk, richly embroidered. His back
was supported by a package, containing the royal bedding; and
a superb silver candelabrum, with a waxlight as large as a
flambeau, blazed from the centre of the kourcy, on which it
stood. His charming little brother, son, and nephew, occupied
the same circle, all nearly buried in the folds of the wadded
silken drapery. His Royal Highness smiled, on my entrance,
at the evident expression of my countenance, on seeing him also,
smothered up in one of the most wretched village hovels. I’
took my seat not far from him. In remarking on the rude scene
around him, he drew an impartial comparison between Europe
and the East, in those points which affect the daily comfort of
all classes of people; repeating his regrets, that the season had
presented his country to me, in so desolate a garb ; and that the
miserable accommodations I had every where seen, must impress
me with only unfavourable ideas of Persia. He was aware of
the ease and facility, and even luxury, with which we make our
journeys in all weathers; and, he added, that “ please God,
hereafter, as far as ever his power might reach, he would have
every caravansary on the great roads of the kingdom put into
repair; besides establishing, in the different towns and villages, a
house for the comfortable reception of those strangers of distinc-
tion, who may chance to pass through the land.” The spot in
which we were, a wretched hovel, in the midst of the still proud
remains of a once great, and now depopulated city, did not fail
to suggest the most interesting topics to his unprejudiced and
enlarged mind. He described, in all the poetical language of
Asiatic eloquence, the riches, splendour, and former consequence
VOL. I. O O
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:
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282 REMARKS ON THE PRINCE'S CHARACTER,
of Sultania; and gave me a particular history of the tomb of
Mahomed Khodabund, under whose lofty towers he was then
conversing; with an account of the treasures, which would have
been lavished on its decoration, within and without the mosque,
had it received the sainted remains of Ali, and of Hossein,
Observations on what Sultania had been, and what he hoped
Sultanabad would be, brought him round to his favourite discus-
sions: the general state of Persia under its different dynasties,
ancient and modern ; its relative situation, with regard to the
great European powers, in all times; and throughout, though
the subject seemed ever in his thought, and therefore the most
frequent on his tongue, the variety of his ideas gave a constant
freshness to the theme; and this evening, like all others passed
in his company, sent me to my own cell for the night, still more
impressed with the expansion of his views, towards his own
country; and the rare disposition, with which he contemplated
the higher range in civilization, attained by the nations of Europe.
No petty jealousy for a moment clouded his brow, when listen-
ing to me on the subject; nor while descanting on their power
and fame himself. A noble emulation, to tread the same happy
progress, seemed the simple feeling of his heart, in every minute
inquiry, under every exciting reply.
Next morning, about seven o'clock, with the snow lying deep
on every object in Sultania, we recommenced our march, over
similar ice paths to the day before, and nearly in the same direc-
tion. As we went along, I was told an interesting circumstance,
which had occurred in the neighbourhood about three years ago.
Near to the summit of one of the hills, to the south-east of the
city, a Kurdish peasant, at work, discovered a stone-coffin, and,
on opening it, the skeleton of a woman, who had evidently been
l)ISCOVERY OF A ROYAL CORSE. 283
of the highest rank. A gold diadem surrounded her head. It
was set with various precious stones, of considerable size, and all
in their places, excepting one, which must have been either ori-
ginally omitted, or afterwards lost, from a very large space just
over the forehead. On her wrists, and ankles, were bracelets of
pure gold; and on her breast, lay a number of very fine pearls,
in the highest preservation, and of the most perfect colour. The
whole of these valuables were brought to the King; and the re-
mains, of course, recommitted to the earth. I could not learn
whether any vestiges of building had been found in the ground,
which might have been formerly standing over the sarcophagus,
nor could I hear of any trace of an inscription. Probably, this
royal corse had slept in that spot, from the earliest times of Sul-
tania; perhaps, ages before the foundations of the great sepul-
chral mosque were laid; but in what particular era she lived, it is
impossible, from the scantiness of the information preserved, to
form any reasonable conjecture. -
The breadth of the valley, during the greatest part of our jour-
ney between its noble hills, might be about three miles. Several
extensive villages, entirely deserted, and in ruins, lay scattered
over the plain, and on the lowest slopes of the hills. The bit-
terest cold, for many hours, accompanied our ride; blasts meet-
ing us at the mouth of every narrow dell, which opened along
the sides of the valley, as we passed. In short, beauty, with
desolation, both in place and climate, pressed on every sense,
till we reached the sheltered and inhabited village of Sian Kala.
'We did not halt there; but the prospect, from that point, was
cheering: over the track we had now to go, the snow had visibly
decreased, and the road itself was considerably improved. Like
mariners on a stormy sea, at sight of a haven, we sped gaily
o O 2
284 KURUMDARA. — ABHAR.
forward; and at four o'clock in the afternoon, arrived at Kurum-
dara, our place of rest; having travelled a distance of seven
farsangs and a half.
Kurumdara is a small respectable town, surrounded by several
villages, little inferior to it in extent and neatness. A clear
stream, formed, a short way from the town, by the union of
numerous beautiful rills trickling from the adjacent hills, flows
through it; and then taking a course along the valley, increases
its waters by other streams, till, I am told, it falls into the Kizzi-
louzan; the Gozen, as I have remarked before, of the Scrip-
tures. - f
The air being milder, in this more southern, sheltered region,
we started next morning from Kurumdara, at six o'clock; on a
road south-east, along a spacious valley, which soon opened to
a breadth of six or eight miles. -
After a march of rather more than an hour, we came in sight
of the village of Abhar, but left it far to the right. It is the
regular halting-place for travellers, between Tabreez and the
capital; and was one of the noted cities of old Persia. Its
mosques, and other ruins, bear clear and extensive memorials of
mussulman antiquity; but Abhar is supposed to have a yet more
ancient origin, as one of the cities on the river Gozen, in which
the Jews were planted, on their removal from Jerusalem.
Every hour that we advanced, the cold, together with the
snow, gradually disappeared; and while all enjoyed this change,
so immediate on our entrance into the country of the captivity,
I could not but remember the beautiful words with which the
poet of Israel hails the approach of the vernal season, and feel
with him, that “the winter was past, and the spring near at hand,
when the flowers should appear on the earth, and the time of the
REMARKS ON THE SEASON. 285
singing birds would come, and the voice of the turtle should again
be heard in the land " - -
But the marks, on ourselves, of the hard season, had not dis-
appeared with their cause; every face, from the prince to the
mule-driver, bore the stamp of an exposed winter journey. Our
eyes had long felt the effects of the sun's glare upon the univer-
sal stretch of snow which covered the country; and our skin,
from the alternate oven-heat of the places in which we lodged,
and the cutting blasts from the outward air, had become so ten-
der, broken, and scarred, that the pain of every rough change,
was literally “ vexing a thing that is raw.”
This balmy alteration, therefore, in the aspect of nature, and
its atmosphere, could not fail to be hailed by us all, as the only
balsam for our wounds; and, indeed, it seemed to unchain the
faculties also, of every living thing in the cavalcade, from man
to the lowest beast of burthen. All was bustle and talk, with
the neighing and prancing of horses, and one successive train
of active and jocund motion.
Numerous flourishing villages, with each its little embastioned
fort rising amidst the most romantic sylvan scenes, stood in
smiling security, amongst their rich tracts of land, already shoot-
ing forth the first promise of an early and abundant harvest.
This was, indeed, the “soft green of the soul,” to our fa-
tigued sight, dried, weakened, and irritated by constant fixing
on a white and dazzling surface. Besides the amelioration of
climate, the fertility of this charming vale must be attributed to
the fine river, which waters the land to a great extent; but where
the valley stretches itself beyond the influence of this fructifying
element, and we left its banks, to traverse the more distant
ground, we found the earth, so far from looking like winter just
286 THE ASSASSINS, OR EL HASSANS.
past, retaining the burnt-up appearance of the preceding sum.
mer. From this point, begins the plain of Casvin, extending
south-east, beyond Teheran, to the foot of a lofty line of moun-
tains south of the Caspian, but to the north of this province;
and well known by the long famous pass of Kawar, anciently
called the Straits of the Caspian. The whole range bears the
name of Elborz, or the Kohé Caucausān; and from amidst its
towering peaks rises the still more gigantic head of Demewand.
These mountains are noted in Persia by numerous legends re-
specting a malignant race of demons, fabled to possess their
extremest heights; and true story gives evidence of a similar
fact; for it was from amongst the wildest recesses of Elborz, that
the fiend-like sect, so horribly famous in the histories of the
crusades, under the name of Assassins, spread themselves from
those remote eastern regions to the hills of Syria. -
The faith of these people was a wild aberration from the
Mahomedan creed, mingling with its laws and fatalities the
transmigratory doctrines of the Hindoos ; and, in consequence,
they believed that their prince or imam was a successive incar-
nation of the Great Prophet, and that every behest of his to
good or evil, must be obeyed as implicitly as the word of God
himself. The first of the tribe, who arrogated these divine pre-
tensions, was Hassan Saheb ; a man, whose domineering passions,
consummate subtility, and persevering spirit of enterprise, per-
fectly fitted for his plan of imposture. He appeared about the
year 1090; and by various intrigues, and singular mysterious
deportment, as well as so invincible a courage, that few dared to
resist, that approached it, he inspired the ignorant barbarians
around him with a firm belief in his mission, and an enthusiastic
devotion to himself. His despotic authority followed of
THE ASSASSINS. 287
course. Once secure of his empire over these mountain hordes,
he secured every pass with fastnesses; and holding himself totally
independent of the surrounding states, he spread his colonies
over Elborz, and along the whole range of hills to beyond
Tabreez; whence they issued forth, singly, or in bands, at the
command of their imam, or his deputed emissaries, to destroy
by open assault, ambuscade, or private murder, all people or
persons, that were obnoxious, either to his ambition, or his
avarice. Christians, Jews, Mahomedans of Omar or of Ali, all
were alike the objects of his excommunication; and he sold his
dagger, or rather that of his followers, to what ever party were
vile enough to buy the blood of their enemies. There was a
mystical obscurity about his person, and in the views of his
widely extending government; with a dauntless determination
of proceeding, which held the princes of that dark age in a kind
of superstitious awe. Jealous of his sway, and abhorring his
tenets; contemning his divine pretensions, yet doubting whether
he did not possess some superhuman means of mischief; they
dreaded a power, which seemed to hang over themselves and
people with constant threatening, though never showing when
nor where it would strike. He soon acquired from these
appalled sovereigns, the vague but supreme title of Sheik-ul-
Jebal, or lord of the mountains; while in the minds of the most
superstitious of the people, he might well be considered one of
the dreadful Deevs, or Daemons of the waste. Al Jebal was the
old Asiatic name for the whole of the very mountainous quarter
of Irak Ajem, which lies between Hamadan and Kermanshah.
It stretches far to the south-west of the Caspian range, above
described, and comprises Mount Elwund, the Orontes of the
ancients; this branch also, bearing the appellation Elburz. But
288 THE ASSASSINS.
the title given to Hassan Saheb seemed to import chief of the
mountains in general; as he commanded those formidable posi-
tions, not only in many parts of Persia, but over much of Syria,
Palestine, and the high lands leading to Egypt.
It so happened, that for more than two centuries, in short,
from their accession to their extinction, every successor of the
first Imam inherited the same disposition to turn the blind zeal
of their followers to the worst purposes. A colony of these
fanatics, under the leading of one of Hassan Saheb's most odious
representatives, settled themselves amongst the heights of Leba-
non, and have been variously called Ismaelians, Bathenians, or
Assassins. That colony is the best known to European historians,
from the horrible enormities which its people committed in the
towns and villages of the Holy Land; and not less so, on the per-
sons and lives of some of our most gallant crusaders. It is woeful
to read, who were the victims of those savages; but often
much more horrible, to turn the page, and find who were their
employers. Their universal violence, however, at last armed
every hand against them ; and, much about the same time, to-
wards the end of the thirteenth century, they were rooted out of
Syria, and Egypt, (whither they had extended themselves,) and
from their original seats in Persia; leaving nothing but their
appropriate appellation of Assassin behind them; no longer to be
considered, what it had originally imported, the mere distinguish-
ing name of a sect, but to be universally affixed, from age to
age hereafter, as a peculiar brand of infamy, on every treacher-
ous, secret, or hired murderer.
Halukoo, the Mogul conqueror of Persia, and of the family of
the famous Zingis Khan, was the prince whose victorious arms,
almost repaid to his new dominions, the devastations of his con-
PLAIN OF CASWIN. 289
quest, by the entire extirpation of the lawless race, which had so
long preyed on the vitals of the country.
As we gradually entered on the extending plain of Casvin,
the range of mountains on our left, lofty, receding, and cleft into
precipitous ravines, presented at the mouth of every pass, and
along the most commanding heights, the vast remains of the
once menacing strongholds of these fearful people, now no more.
On the summit of one of the highest hills to the north-west, I
observed traces of a very extended line of towers, connected
with walls, and so situated as to appear, to the gazer below,
absolutely impregnable. This, my illustrious informant told me,
had been the chief fortress of the Sheik-el-Jebal; it was called
that of Almout, and had withstood many a siege; while the
immediate tract around, bore the name of the Rood-bar country;
in memory of the sanguinary people, who had rendered those
passes formidable.
Our road was now at large over the plain, no regular path
confining the line of march; so that the horsemen galloped to
and fro, throwing the girid, firing their pistols and muskets,
shaking their long bamboo lances, and forming into parties,
affected to skirmish. All this was as much for their own amuse-
ment, as that of His Royal Highness, who was looking on. As
we proceeded, and the day advanced, the scene became every
hour more varied, by the approach of other cavalcades, headed
by their chiefs, coming forwards in all directions, to pay their
compliments to the Prince. That done, they fell into his train;
and so swelled our host to a little army.
The gay, asiatic-romance appearance of the spectacle, must be
seen, to be imagined. The beauty, fleetness, and perfect evolu-
tions of the horses; the motion of their riders, in all the pic-
VOL. I. P P
290 MEETING OF ABBAS MIRZA AND HIS BROTHER.
turesque martial costume of the East; the fire of their counte-
nances, the animation of their shouts, and the dexterity with
which they performed every practice of their various arms, kept
the eye, and the admiration constantly on the alert. Nine hours
march thus passed away; and I found that we were nearly
approaching Siahdan, our quarters for the night, before I thought
we had compassed half the day's journey.
At about two miles' distance from the place, I observed a
larger cavalcade than any of the former, coming at a quick pace
towards us. During its advance, the leader, a fine young man,
splendidly dressed, dismounted, and ran forward. The instant
Abbas Mirza perceived him, he threw himself off his horse ;
and in a few minutes they were in each other's arms. It was his
brother, Ali Nackee Mirza, Governor of Casvin. The scene
was a picture; the two princes embracing, between their sepa-
rate bands. But the meeting was more: it could not be beheld,
by even a stranger's eye, without touching the heart. Theirs
was not the cold salute, of mere established ceremony; for
the custom of male kindred kissing each other, is as old in
Persia, as the times of the elder Cyrus: and, indeed, it seems to
be even as ancient as family affections themselves; for older
historians than Xenophon mention the same action between
men, who were relations or friends, in greeting or bidding fare-
well. But it was not this custom alone, that we saw in the
mutual welcome before us: it was the warm, cordial, and repeated
embrace of two brothers sincerely attached to each other. After
a few minutes' conversation, they remounted their horses; and,
riding side by side, preceded the column, towards the town;
and the suite of Ali Nackee Mirza, falling in with that of the
Prince Royal, the whole went forward.
**
". .
SIAHDAN. 291
Siahdan is a flourishing place, extended over a large piece of
rising ground, which, in that part, gently breaks the perfect level
of the plain. During our last few hours' journey, it had widened
from twelve to sixteen miles across. Here, though the climate
had softened so much, we were reminded that winter was yet on
the other side of the hills; for a chilling wind from the north,
assailed us from between the mountains. It is called the baude
Caucausán, or wind of Caucasus; and, I was told, it continues to
blow at intervals, till the end of May; at which time the warm
weather sets in with good earnest. *
Saturday, the fourteenth of March, we left Siahdan very early
in the morning, in a direction south-east; the plain still expand-
ing eastward; which, while it allowed a greater play to the wind,
opened so free and noble a view, with a sky of such bright azure,
that a little extraordinary coldness in the air rather gave
stimulus than annoyance to our senses. The horsemen, as
before, amused us by galloping, charging, and repeating, with new
varieties, all the feats of yesterday; for emulation between the
trains of the two princes increased the actors, and added to the
interest of the sight; the very horses seeming to partake the
ambition of their masters. If blood prove pedigree, these fine
animals fully established their descent from the ancient race, so
famous for form, spirit, and swiftness, bred in these very pastures.
We have ample testimony from the old historians, that the best
cavalry of the East were derived from this part of the great
empire of Persia; and the native breed were so highly prized
above all others, that Alexander considered a Median horse as
the most royal gift he could bestow; and the kings of Parthia
chose the same, as the most costly sacrifice they could lay upon
the altar of their gods. -
P P 2
292 ROYAL CHILDREN.
When we had arrived within a farsang of Casvin, the resi-
dence of Ali Nackee Mirza, and where the Prince Royal meant
to halt for a day, a new spectacle presented itself; but it was
another domestic scene. A group of lovely children, five in
number, the sons of the Prince-governor, stood on the grass,
attended by their tutors, and servants holding their horses.
They waited there to salute their uncle as he passed; and when
he approached, they all bowed their little heads to the ground;
and then were lifted up in the arms of their attendants, to Abbas
Mirza, who kissed them with the greatest tenderness. They
then mounted on finely managed horses, led by their servants,
and joined the line of march with their cousins. Young as these
princes were, some of them hardly beyond infancy, it was
astonishing to see them sit these spirited animals without the
least alarm or appearance of disuse. Their rich habits, baby
figures, and large bright eyes, full of childish animation; with
their lively prattle amongst themselves and their older cousins;
and the affectionate smiles of the royal brothers, as they occa-
sionally looked round; formed, altogether, a scene, which beau-
tifully harmonised with that of the day before.
A very little time brought us within a mile of the town ; and
the whole of the inhabitants, I believe, issued forth to greet
the return of its Prince-governor, with his royal brother. These
loyal subjects thronged over the plain, and lined each side of the
road in deep ranks, armed with spears, shields, guns, pistols,
clubs, &c., some clad in mail, others in their best apparel.
Flags of blue silk, shaped to a point, on which were blazoned
the lion and sun, streamed in the air, which resounded with the
shouts of the joyous multitude. The royal cavalcade having
entered this living avenue, two most extraordinary moving
ISTAKBALL AT CASWIN. 293
groups presented themselves before the horse of Abbas Mirza,
as he rode forward: one, a party of wrestlers; the other, about a
dozen brawny fellows, displaying their bald heads, and bodies
bare to the waist, each armed with a couple of wooden machines
called meals, in shape like a paviour's rammer, and not much
lighter in weight; and which they unceasingly whirled in the
air, with an amazing adroitness, as well as agility; their own, or
their neighbour's head, appearing in imminent jeopardy at each
swing of the club. These Persian athletae in general faced
the Prince; walking, or rather hopping backwards, during their
whole exercise, and all the way to the town; excepting, now and
then, when they relieved themselves of this incommodious retro-
grade motion, by a whirl or two, in company with the circling
machine above their heads. By degrees, the multitude closed
in upon us; and the dust, heat, fumes, and noise, arising from
such a mingling of men and animals, made the abundant honours
of this istakball so insupportable, that myself, at least, was glad
to rein in my horse, and escape any increase of the ceremonies.
These, however, were soon over; and as soon as the royal caval-
cade, with the great mass of people, had squeezed into the city-
gate, I followed; and found my mehmandar in waiting, to conduct
me to my quarters. They were in the house of the learned Persian,
who is chief governor to the sons of Ali Nackee Mirza, the lovely
children I had seen; and it was the first place I had found in Per-
sia, inhabited by a person under the rank of a minister of state,
where the fitting up wore any appearance of what we might expect
in a residence of one of the higher orders. Hence we may infer,
that the preceptors of royalty, in this country, are as much re-
spected as the ministers of state; and, indeed, there are hardly any
of the latter august characters, in any nation, who hold a more
294 PERSIAN MANNERS.
responsible situation, than he does, who is to form the heir
apparent, and his brethren, to future sovereignty. He lays the
foundation in the royal mind, whence the leading actions of all
state-ministers are derived. * - -
But to return to the habitation of my temporary host: the
whole of the rooms were variously painted in arabesque, inter-
spersed with looking-glass, gilding, and fretwork. In the great
saloon of audience, were several pictures, in the high dry style of
the native artists, consisting of scenes in the chace, portraits, &c.
The elegance of the apartment gave a favourable impression of
the polish of the owner; and I augured well for the future taste,
at least, of the charming little creatures I had seen, who were
under such judicious care. But, as I have implied before, the most
effective part in the education of the present royal race of chil-
dren in this country, is the privilege of being with their parents,
at every opportunity of impressing them to advantage; and one
such discourse as that which Abbas Mirza held with me in the
poor hut at Sultania, to which his son and two young kinsmen
listened with such wrapt attention, was worth a year of mere
didactic tutelage from Aristotle himself. Teaching by example,
is life to instruction.
I had scarcely seated myself in the apartments destined for
my accommodation, before the master of the house entered, and
paid me the usual eloquent greetings of the country. His meta-
phorical language possessed as many flowers, as the luxuriant
hangings of his chambers; but, to adopt the same style, “ there
is a fragrance in gracious welcome, which gives sweetness to the
homeliest fare.” The complimentary style of Persian intercourse,
is proverbial for its hyperbole. But there is almost always a
graceful turn in their phrases, which prevents their evident flat-
**
CASWIN. 295
tery from being nauseous; the person addressed, rather con-
sidering them words of polite ceremony, in which apt memory,
original wit, or poetical fancy, contend for display, than any
sinister design to propitiate vanity, at the expense of common
principle and common-sense. The European traveller, who
would think himself free to take lasting possession of a Persian's
goods and chattels, because the polite Asiatic told him, at his
entrance, “they were, henceforward, his property ſ” would not
be less absurd, in this country, than if in his own, he were to
believe himself privileged to command about every man as his
lackey, who subscribed himself his “obedient humble servant.”
How the Persian nation, which has been so often over-run by
people of the most rugged habits, came to acquire, or to retain,
such suaviter in modo, is hardly to be explained. Besides, exces-
sive refinement in the courtesies of life, being commonly consi-
dered, not merely the acmé of social polish, but a pledge that the
country which possesses it, has arrived at every other perfection
attendant on the progress of society; the like harmony, if ex-
pected here, would be found wanting. Persia is yet in its -
infancy, as a great and flourishing state; or rather, the noble
tree, so often stripped of its branches, till it appeared bare to
the root, is only now shooting the new-growth ; which the suc-
ceeding generations of Futy Ali Shah, may cultivate into fruit
as well as flowers. . . *
Halting a whole day at Casvin, gave me an opportunity of
visiting what was note-worthy in the town, before I went to the
palace of Ali Nackee Mirza; which comprised every splendour,
due to his station as Prince-governor, and to the royal personage
who was then his guest. Casvin was a city of consideration
many centuries ago; and is situated on the extensive plain, to
296 CASWIN.
which it gives its own name, in latitude 36°20'. Its foundation
is attributed to Sapor II., in commemoration of his escape from
captivity, and subsequent victories over the Emperor Julian.
Haroun al Raschid, with his wonted architectural magnificence,
augmented the number of streets, and so beautified them with
palaces, mosques, and gardens, that he acquired the fame of
having constructed a second city. The amiable, but weak Shah
Thamas, when he abandoned Tabreez in the 955th year of the
Hegira, made Casvin his royal residence. And Nadir Shah,
after he had mounted the Persian throne on the neck of his
abused master, increased its public buildings by the addition of
an extensive palace. But, like the capital of Azerbijan, Casvin
has more than once been nearly overwhelmed by earthquakes;
so, that at present, little remains of its past grandeur, but broken
masses of domes and towers, and long lines of mouldering walls.
The existing town, however, is not unworthy a royal governor;
having many fine edifices, and spacious gardens producing fruits
of great variety and delicacy of flavour. *
On Monday, the 16th of March, we set forth with the rising
sun, marching along the plain, which gradually widened to an
extent of thirty miles. The ground was broken in several
parts, by ranges of kanaughts; a kind of aqueduct formed by deep
wells, sunk in a regular line, but at a considerable distance from
each other, and connected at the bottom by long subterraneous
channels, through which the water passes from well to well;
supplying hundreds of villages, which cover the sides of this
extensive valley. Our course was along its southern side, where
these villages, with their tributary wells, are very numerous;
standing, as usual, amidst embattled mud walls and towers, and
embellished with gardens. Nothing more distinctly marks the
SUFFER-KAJAR. 297
difference between the political state of these Asiatic countries,
and that of our nations in the west, than the sight of every little
village, surrounded by military works, like a frontier town ; a
plain proof how close invasion, from one point or other, is
thought to be to every man's door.
The level of the plain was still more varied by high mounds
of earth, similar in form to the tumuli of the steppes, but much
too immense to have been erected for the same purpose. These
stood along the side of the valley, but too distant from the bases
of the hills to spring naturally from them. This fact, added to
the perfect regularity of their form, enormous as they were, put
their construction by manual labour out of doubt; but how, or
why they were erected, remained to be explained. There ap-
peared no hollows any where, whence their component parts
might have been dug; and the ground immediately round most
of them, seemed particularly flat. Perhaps, the earth and
stones thrown up, in making the wells and subterraneous water-
courses, (a style of aqueduct which is very ancient,) may account
for some of the materials; and the rest, it is possible, may have
furnished employment for the captive Israelites, to bring from
afar.
The direction of this day's march did not differ from that of
our last; and thus moving continually onward to the south-east,
we had the pleasure of keeping the baude Caucausán in our rear;
and reached our halting-place, the village of Suffer-Kajar, at
three o'clock, P. M. after a journey of seven farsangs and three-
quarters, with no more fatigue than if we had taken only a
morning ride. This place, though small, is honoured by having
a royal residence in its vicinity; a country-seat of his present
Majesty, which is built on the summit of one of the mounds, and
VOI. I. § Q Q
298 MOUNDS OF THE FIRE-worshipPERs.
surrounded by fine gardens; the whole being enclosed in a
strong wall.
We left Suffer-Kajar at seven o'clock next morning, still tra-
versing the plain in a south-easterly direction. The country,
though so extensive, changed nothing of its appearance, except-
ing that the artificial hills stood thicker, as we departed farther
from the mountains. The lofty ridge of that part of the Elborz,
at whose feet the celebrated city of Rages or Rey stands, grew
in magnitude on our sight; as we crossed this magnificent vale,
which divides that sublime chain into two ranges of mountains.
The weather was delightfully pleasant, and every thing breathed
the air of spring. -
Having proceeded rather more than three farsangs, I perceived
a mound, at some little distance from the high road, of greater
altitude than any of the former I had observed; and which had
the additional peculiarity of uneven ground about its base, and
the vestiges of stone building. As we approached, I enquired
of Abbas Mirza, by whose side I had the honour to be riding,
what he thought of the origin of those heaps of earth. He had
no doubt of their having been raised by man; but by whom,
and for what purpose, he said, he knew of no written nor tra-
ditionary account. But he supposed they were the work of the
Fire-worshippers of former ages, who usually erected their altars
on high places; and there being none, naturally, so many far-
sangs from the hills, these idolaters had constructed mounds to
supply the deficiency. When that worship was discountenanced
by “ the true faith,” he thought it probable, the people of the
land would turn that vantage-ground to purposes of defence;
and rear their villages near, if not round each conical hill. These
suppositions seemed the more likely, from the circumstances of the
PERSIAN HORSEMANSHIP. 299
mounds being found just in that position on the plain, where
the alleged purposes would require them; far enough from the
mountains, to render an artificial elevation of the kind necessary
to persons who performed their religious rites in the open air,
and on pyramidal heights; and also, so distant from the middle
of the plain, where no water is, and to which none can be brought,
that no human creature could find it possible to fix a habitation
there. Hence, as these mounds must have been the work of
man to some useful object, there does not appear a more probable
intention for their origin, than the one which His Royal High-
ness suggested; each village having then its “ high place,” as it
may now have its little mahomedan oratory of prayer.
This discussion brought us near to the subject of our discourse.
It was one of the largest mounds I had seen; very steep; and at
the top of the almost perpendicular side which fronted our caval-
cade, there seemed to be a small level, of from twelve to sixteen
yards in diameter. The Prince looked at it a moment; then
turning to me with a smile, made a sign to me to follow him,
while he set off at full speed. His brothers, son, and nephew,
were not left far behind, nor myself neither; and he did not
check his bridle, till he and his horse stood on the pinnacle;
though he had looked back, more than once, to see how I enjoyed
the expedition. Certainly, to one, of not quite so mounting a
mind, or practice as our royal leader, it seemed an enterprize
little inferior to riding up the side of a house; but the boys
galloped on, with an eagerness and an ease which would have
put a laggart to shame; and when I reached the top, His
Royal Highness gaily enquired, how I liked his style of breathing
a spring morning. We then viewed the surrounding prospect;
which was more extensive and interesting, than rich or beautiful.
Q Q 2
300 PERSIAN HORSEMANSHIP.
The absence of wood and water deprived it of all the graces of
landscape; and the distance of the mountains, which edged the
plain, denied it the grandeur which usually accompanies such
gigantic boundaries. While the three young princes were enjoy-
ing their bird’s-eye view, of the desultory march, and continued
feats of arms and horsemanship, with which the goolams amused
themselves; Abbas Mirza pointed out to me the spot where
Teheran lay, as well as that of Rey, and the direction of Ispahan,
Hamadan, &c. &c.; after which, we descended at nearly the same
headlong rate as that with which we had mounted. Exploits of
this kind are nothing extraordinary to a people who from the
earliest times have been noted for excellent horsemanship. They
charge over the most intimidating obstacles; and go at full
speed along precipitous tracks, which a European would hardly
venture to attempt, but in a state of madness or intoxication. I
have seen the attendants of Abbas Mirza gallop over the most
rugged paths, without incurring the slightest accident; and,
indeed, so expert are these daring and practised riders, a horse
with broken knees is a rare sight in this country. A Persian
has the reins put into his hands, almost as soon as he quits his
cradle, and mounts the most spirited animals, at the age when
our boys are just bestriding a rocking-horse. One instance, I
have mentioned already; where the very young children of Ali
Nackee Mirza guided their fiery steeds over the plain of Casvin
with all the ease of the best reputed horsemen. When we talk
of fiery steeds, in this country, the term carries no comparison
with what may bear that name in Europe. These are, indeed,
horses of the sun; beautiful and fleet, and often fierce as the
burning element. Some anecdotes, which I shall relate here-
after, will show that these words, when so applied, are something
more than metaphor, :
DR. DRUMMOMD CAMPBELL. 301
A few hours after this little expedition, when I joined His
Royal Highness again in our ride, I perceived the usual smiling
graciousness of his countenance had given place to an extraor-
dinary gravity; but he immediately recommenced a conversation;
talking of the palace of the king his father, at Sleymonia, where
we were to halt for the night; and from whence, he hoped, to
gain better intelligence on a subject, some accounts of which had
just given him the greatest anxiety. In short, with a degree of
manly feeling on his part, and a delicacy to mine, which I shall
never forget, he told me he had seen a messenger, who brought
tidings of the dangerous illness of a gentleman, whom he knew I
was affectionately anticipating the sight of at Teheran. This
was Dr. Drummond Campbell, with whom I had formed a friend-
ship in Europe; a man, in the bloom of life; full of the most
eminent talents, not merely professionally, but pointing to every
line of Asiatic literature. He had been some time attached to
the British embassy in Persia; and his perfect knowledge of the
language of the country, rendered him one of the most valuable
members of the mission. Abbas Mirza held these public quali-
ties in great consideration, but he more particularly esteemed
Dr. Campbell for his amiable private virtues; and while he re-
peated what the informant had told him, that the invalid was
gone from Teheran to Kund, (a village lying a little out of the
direct road, between that capital and Sleymonia,) for change of air;
His Royal Highness anxiously added, that as soon as we should
arrive at the palace, he would send Dr. De la Fosse forward, to
ascertain, and bring him word, the true state of Dr. Campbell.
On this intimation, I begged permission to accompany the me-
dical gentleman ; being now doubly impatient to see my friend;
and promised, to fall in with the cavalcade the following morning,
time enough to enter the capital with His Royal Highness.
302 PALACE OF SLEYMONIA.
At four o'clock P. M. we reached the palace of Sleymonia, a
castellated structure, of such comprehensive dimensions, as to
receive, not only the princes and their more immediate party,
but the whole retinue. The plan of the palace consists of a
succession of spacious courts, connected with each other, and
surrounded by chambers, adapted to the rank of the persons
expected to inhabit them, Gardens, also, sparkling with foun-
tains, and embellished by lofty arcades, with a variety of
winding paths, fill large spaces within the walls of the building.
All these places were now occupied ; men, horses, mules, and
baggage, self-disposed in picturesque groups; some asleep on
their nummuds, others at prayers; some cooking, eating, or
smoking; others preparing their arms and accoutrements,
for the following day; khans, and officers of state, passing
to and fro; and the menials of the train unloading, or cleaning,
the beasts of burthen.
After I had rested awhile in my own quarters, a person came
from the Prince, to show me to his apartments, through some
of the gardens, and the rest of the palace. The day was fine,
and the little tour would have been as amusing, as His Royal
Highness's goodness intended it, had not my mind been too
much engrossed with the image of the friend I was to see in the
evening, to pay much attention to any thing, however interest-
ing, in the interim. Dr. De la Fosse, my intended conductor
to Drummond Campbell, was also my intelligent companion
throughout the various regions of this immense residence; and
when I had seen enough, to satisfy my then languid curiosity, we
ordered our attendant to show us direct to the Prince's quarters.
He obeyed; and after passing through numerous courts and
avenues, crowded, as I have described before; he brought us
\ . . . - - , - !
PERSIAN PORTRAIT-PAINTING. 303
to a spacious quadrangle, planted and watered in the customary
Asiatic style; and into which the window of the great saloon,
which contained the royal visitants, opened. A flight of steps,
and a suite of anti-rooms, conducted us into the saloon, where
we found Abbas Mirza, his brother the Prince-governor of
Casvin, and the three young princes. His Royal Highness was
pleased to hear that I had been over so much of this noble
palace; which, in dimensions at least, reminded me of the superb
ruins of a similar regal edifice amongst the remains of Anni.
One morning, in mentioning Sleymonia to me, the Prince had
spoken of several family pictures it contained; and expressed a
wish that I would give him my opinion of their merits. They
were the work of Persian artists. He now recalled to me the
circumstance; telling me, that was the apartment which con-
tained them, the great hall of audience; and he did me the
honour to add, that he had reserved to himself the pleasure of
showing it to me, and explaining the portraits.
The whole of its capacious floor was, as usual, covered with
carpets and nummuds of the most costly fabric. The windows,
whose height and breadth occupied nearly two sides of the room,
were filled with stained glass of every shape and hue; while the
opposite quarters, exhibited two large pictures, reaching from
the ceiling almost to the floor: one, representing Futy Ali
Shah, his present Majesty, seated in all the blaze of state, upon
his throne. To his right and left, in the same picture, were
ranged about twenty of his sons; beginning with Mahomed Ali
Mirza, Prince-governor of Kermanshah ; and finishing with the
young Malek Kassum Mirza, who had been our fellow-traveller
from Tabreez. Abbas Mirza, with the liveliest interest, de-
304 - PERSIAN PORTRAIT-PAINTING.
scribed each personage on the canvass; telling me, they were
painted by the best artists that Persia could boast. A European
connoisseur might have truly said, “Then, bad is the best "
But such naked truth would hardly have been deemed delicate in
the sincerest country of Europe; and it certainly would not have
been decent, to censure the prized works of his country, to the
amiable prince, who took so much condescending pains to yield
every gracious hospitality to a stranger from our more refined
Europe. The style of painting was hard and dry; and the
portraits of the heir-apparent, and his two brothers, who at that
moment were confronting their effigies, were so little like them-
selves; that if the spectator may conclude of the degree of re-
semblance in the rest, from these specimens, it might as well
have been a family piece of Shah Abbas, as of the present
monarch of Persia. And yet, the figure of the king himself,
though executed in so tea-board a manner, was fine; and
showed so much majestic grace, I could not doubt his royal
son's assurance, that it was like his father.
The other large picture, which hung on the opposite side of
the room, amongst several of less dimensions, contained a por-
trait of the late king, Aga Mahomed Khan, surrounded by his
kinsmen and courtiers. In the first class were his seven brothers,
who had all distinguished themselves in arms ; and were therefore
habited in armour, though of a strange costume, mingled with the
present ordinary fashion of Persia. The face of Aga Mahomed
Khan, is as unprepossessing, as that of his brother Futy Ali Shah
appears to be the contrary. Even the harsh pencil of the artist
could not deprive the features of the latter monarch of the
beauty, sweetness, and benignity, which his son told me are
their characteristics; and from this fine head, descends a long
VISIT TO DR. DRUMMOND CAMPBELL. 305
beard, black and bright, and of a peculiar form, the proudest
appendage, to a Persian taste, of royal personal dignity.
About eight o'clock in the evening, Dr. de la Fosse and myself
set forth, attended by an escort of horsemen, to visit my invalid
friend at the village of Kund; a salubrious spot, delightfully
situated on the side of the mountains north of Teheran. The night'
was beautiful; a bright moon, through as clear a sky, cheering us
on our way. It was past midnight before we reached the quarters
of poor Campbell. He was asleep when we arrived; and being
careful not to have him disturbed, we did not see him till five
o'clock the next morning. When I entered his melancholy
chamber, and again took my friend by the hand, I was shocked
to find him far more reduced, than even the messenger had
described. His pleasure was great, at the sight of us; and we
did our best to enliven him with hopes of recovery. But he
shook his head, though with a kind smile, that showed his
resignation, and feeling of our motive in thus seeking to cheer
him. Our visit was short; but yet as long, as his weak state
could bear; and we started early, that Dr. de la Fosse might
make his report of our friend to the Prince, before he should
be encumbered by the ceremonies of his approach to Teheran.
According to the divinations of the wise, His Royal Highness
was to depart from Sleymonia after midnight, to enable him
to reach the capital three hours after sun-rise; that being the
most fortunate moment of the day, agreeable to astrological
calculation.
When we came up with Abbas Mirza, the information we
brought, evidently gave him as much pain as we felt in narrating
it; and the rest of the ride was performed in almost silence, till
we met the joyous tumult from Teheran. The Prince's royal
VOL. I. g R. R.
306 - - TEHERAN.
brothers, who were gathered together for the solemnity of the
festival, appeared at the head of the procession; a great con-
course of nobles, and half the population of the city, followed
them; and yet the ceremony of the entré was not so bustling,
though much more splendid than that of Casvin. On my arri-
val, I of course became the guest of His Britannic Majesty's
Chargé d'Affaires, Captain Willock, and was lodged in the palace
of embassy.
Half a century ago, Teheran, the present metropolis of all
Persia, would hardly have been considered a town of sufficient
importance to be styled the capital of a province. It occupies
a central situation, in the north-eastern districts of Irak-Ajem;
an extensive division of the empire, comprising the greatest
part of Media, and a lesser share of Parthia ; or, rather, certain
lands which the Princes of the latter country had conquered and
annexed to their own. Parthia Proper was a very small tract,
lying east of Khorasan. So much more has the spirit of a
people, than their numbers, to do with making them a name,
and gaining them possessions. Irak-Ajem is bounded on the
north, by Azerbijan (which also was part of Media), Ghilan, and
Mazanderan (ancient Hyrcania); to the south, by Farsistan and
Kuzistan (ancient Susiana); to the west, by Kurdistan; and to
the east, by Khorasan, and the Salt Desart.
Teheran, according to observations made by several British
officers, lately resident in that city, is in latitude 35° 37' N.
Mr. M'Donald makes its longitude 50° 52' E. It stands on a
very low tract of ground, near to the foot of the Elborz moun-
tains; which at this part have an older and more romantic cele-
brity attached to them, than the gloomy fame they derive from
Hassan Saheb, and his sanguinary race. The ancient Hyrcania,
TEHER.A.N. 307
a country of warriors, who are reported to have carried a charmed
life, lying immediately north of these hills, their passes became the
scenes of more than mortal combats, between the simply brave
heroes of Persia and these magician chieftains: they are also
noted for having been the place of refuge of the illustrious Prince
Zal, who, having been exposed, when an infant, to perish in these
wilds, was nurtured by a simorgh or griffin ; and afterwards
marrying a great king's daughter, became the father of the yet
more renowned Rustum, the champion of Persia.
In the midst of regions so memorable in tradition, Teheran
continued long an obscure spot; but the wheel of fortune turned,
and it started at once into the first consequence, under the auspices
of Aga Mahomed Khan, uncle to the present Shah, and who was the
first Persian sovereign that made Teheran a royal residence. Its
vicinity to that monarch's paternal country of Astarabad, which
has been styled the Garden of the East, and is entirely inhabited
by the Cadjar people, the royal tribe of the king, was one cause
of the distinction bestowed on this once humble village. It like-
wise lies in a central situation, between the provinces to the
north-west, which border on Georgia, and those to the east,
which are subject to incursions from the Turcomans, and their
restless allies of Afghanistan. Indeed, for a position of general
surveillance, the Persian monarch could hardly have chosen a
better situation, than that of Teheran; though a pleasanter one
might have been presented, by almost any one of the former ca-
pitals of the empire. The numerous spring torrents, which pour
from the adjacent heights, at the beginning of the warm wea-
ther, saturate the low ground about the town, sink into its
vaults, and send up such vapours and dampness, as to render it
very unhealthy during that season of the year. The unpleasant-
R R 2
308 TEHERAN.
ness of the place, however, lies wholly in this unwholesomeness;
for its aspect is far from disagreeable. The very humidity of the
soil produces early verdure, and clothes the gardens with a more
abundant shade. Then, immediately behind the town, the high
ranges of Elborz stretch to the eastward; and over their pic-
turesque heads, in almost a direct line northward, rises the tower-
ing peak of Demewand. The wide plain, we had just traversed,
affords an open and a noble view to the north-west; while the
faintly-discerned chain of hills, skirting the horizon to the south,
and which divide the fertile land from, the Salt Desart, hardly
bound the eye in that quarter. -
Teheran, though modern as a capital, and comparatively
obscure as a town, has nevertheless had some note of its exist-
ence, so far back as the fourteenth century. A Persian writer
of that period, remarks it as “a large village, with productive
gardens, in the vicinity of the city of Rey; its inhabitants having
their dwellings under-ground, for two reasons; to avoid the ex-
cessive heat of summer, and the attacks of their hostile neigh-
bours, from the Roudbar mountains.” Nearly three centuries
after this, in the year 1637, the secretary of the Holstein am-
bassadors mentions Teheran, as “one of the towns which en-
joyed the privilege of maintaining no soldiers.” The cold, I am
told, is severe in the winter months. The weather, towards the
spring, I found to be delightful; but early in June, the heat be-
comes so intolerable, that the city is almost totally abandoned:
the court flies to the more temperate plains of Sultania or Oujan,
and the people either to tents or villages amongst the hills. Nearer
to the base of the mountains, and a little on the ascent, the earth
is free from any degree of noxious moisture; the water is good,
and the air perfectly salubrious. Hence, we cannot but lament,
- TEHER AN. * 309
that the founder of the new capital had not had sages about him of
sufficient wisdom, to advise his planting the royal pavilion there,
rather than in this summer swamp. The proximity of the com-
manding heights, as formerly they might have been called, since
the introduction of modern art in defence and attack, need never
have been an objection in a military view ; at least, they would be
none under the present reign; the Prince-governor of Azerbijan
having brought the knowledge of European tactics to a practice
which, never before, had been thought of in this country.
Teheran is surrounded by a deep ditch, towers, and a mud-
wall, embracing a circuit of eight thousand yards, with four
gates: that to the south, leading to Ispahan; that to the north-
west, to Tabreez; the other two, look towards the hills in the cor-
responding directions. They are very plain in their structure,
with the exception of a few blue and green tiles, by way of orna-
ment. At about two hundred yards in front of each gate stands a
very large circular tower, protected by a fosse; the earth of which
must not only have assisted in elevating the body of the works,
but has formed a glacis on its outer bank. These bulwarks might
serve two very opposite purposes; first, to check the advance
of an enemy; and then, if carried, to be turned as a line of cir-
cumvallation against the town ; egress from the gates being
perfectly at the command of these out-works. With the excep-
tion of Khoy, Tabreez, and Erivan, none of the embattled towns
of Persia have embrasures in their walls; supplying their means
of defence with small loop-holes for musquetry, and bell-shaped
projections, running along both towers and curtains a few feet
from the top, to act as machicolations. \ -
It is generally supposed that the greatest part of this new
city was erected from the ruins of Rey, which lie about five
310 TEHERAN.
miles distant. The principal materials in the construction of
both places, are certainly sun-dried bricks; but it seems to have
been än unnecessary length of way, to have brought so many
thousand ass-loads, as must have been wanted to complete the
purpose. Cart-carriage is a convenience not known in this coun-
try; therefore, if the builders required the spoil of any other place
to assist their labours, the remains of numerous ancient villages
of the same fabric, lying much nigher at hand, would, most likely,
have been made to yield their substance to the modern erection.
Neither mosque, nor palace, break the equal line of the city; the
residence of the king being situated in the citadel or ark, a dis-
tinct quarter of itself, occupying a square of twelve hundred yards,
and surrounded by its own bulwarks, which close upon the north
wall of the town. The streets of Teheran, like all other that I
have seen in this country, are extremely narrow, and full of mud
or dust, according to the season being wet or dry. When a
khan or any great man goes out to take the air, or for any other
object, he seldom condescends to be seen on foot ; but, mounted
on horseback, sets forth. with a train of thirty or forty ill-ap-
pointed followers on foot, and a servant preceding him, bearing
a fine embroidered horse-cloth. One of the fellows in the rear
generally carries his master's kalioun ; but of what use the others
are, except to fill the scanty way, and raise a dust to suffocation,
I have never been able to learn. Successions of such groups,
loaded camels, mules, asses, and not unfrequently one or two of
the royal elephants, are continually passing to and fro; some-
times jamming up the streets, to the evident hazard of life and
limbs, both of man and beast. Ancient and modern cities of the
East, all show the same narrow line in the plan of their streets.
To compress many inhabitants, in a similar small space, was
NATIONAL STORY-TELLERS. . 311
deemed expedient, in Europe also, when the state of the times
rendered fortified places the only secure places; and this
occasional necessity may account, in some measure, for the
wretched alleys I have just described. But the natives give ano-
ther reason; that were they wider it would be impossible to pass
along them, under the unshaded fire of the summer's sun. This
may appear feasible; but the evil is only half averted; confined
heat, crowd, and odious smells, producing effects, to European
feelings at least, more intolerable than the most vertical beams
in a free atmosphere. Where any place does present a little
more room than ordinary, or under the covered ways attached
to the shops, we generally find one of the national story-tellers,
surrounded by groups of people; some well-clad, others in rags,
and not a few nearly naked, attending with the most lively in-
terest to tales they must have heard a thousand times before.
He recounts them with a change of gesticulation, and a varied
tone of voice, according to his subject; whether it be the loves of
Khosroo and Shireene, the exploits of Rustum their favourite
hero, or any number of historic couplets from Ferdoussi, the
Homer of their land. From the humblest peasant, to the head
that wears the diadem, all have the same passion for this kind of
entertainment. His present Majesty, and also the several Prince-
governors, have each a court story-teller; in listening to whose
powers of memory, or of eloquence, the royal personage fre-
quently passes the leisure of the day; and when on a long jour-
ney, this necessary officer is always within call, to beguile the
* tedium of the way. Such a living chronicle of noble exemplars
is certainly a more creditable adjunct to a great man's train, than
the saucy motleys of our old courts; whose wit might as often
be a vehicle of mischief, as of innocent pastime, to the invited
312 POPULATION OF TEHERAN.
guests. These story-tellers of Persia have a mixed character,
something between the bards of antiquity, and the troubadours
of more modern days.
On entering Teheran from the Casvin gate, and after proceed-
ing two or three hundred yards into the town, a large open space
presents itself, full of wide and deep excavations, or rather pits,
sunk in the earth. Within the shaft of these well-like places,
and round its steep sides, are numerous apertures, leading to
subterraneous apartments; some, the sojourn of poor houseless
human beings, who, otherwise would have no shelter; others,
a temporary stabling for beasts of burthen, under the same cir-
cumstances. In these gloomy recesses, we doubtless find the
village of Teheran, as it was described in the fourteenth century,
by the Persian writer quoted a few pages before.
I could not learn, with any degree of precision, the population
of the town ; but I should suppose, from my own observations,
that during His Majesty's winter and spring residence there, it
may amount to between sixty and seventy thousand souls. Of
course, I do not calculate in this number the extraordinary in-
flux from the provinces, which draw to the capital at the cele-
bration of the Nowroose. -
The three or four days which intervened between my arrival,
and the solemnity of the feast, were in part dedicated to ex-
changing visits with the ministers and superior khans. Amongst
the former, was Mirza Sheffy, the well-known prime-minister
of his late majesty, and of the present King. Mr. Willock, the
British Chargé d'Affaires, was so good as to accompany me in
the performance of this expected courtesy, to the residence of
his Persian Excellency, about four o'clock, P. M. : and a scene
presented itself, which would have formed an excellent study
SN/2




VISIT TO THE MINISTER, MIRZA SHEFFY. 313
for the pencil of Rembrandt, in painting the Repose of an Avare.
We found the old man in a small, dark, and even dirty, apart-
ment, belonging to the quarter of the palace which is called the
treasury. He was lying on as dingy a nummud, dosing off the
effects of the opium pills, with which Persians of all ranks, when
they advance in life, indulge themselves. This humble couch
was pressed upon, on every side, by iron-braced boxes, some
open, and others shut, filled with ducats, tomauns, and other
coin current of the country. Not far from him sat his treasurer,
a one-eyed personage, with paper, pens, and ink-horn, before
him ; and a large pair of scales, which he used, both in receiv-
ing, and sending forth, any part of the contents of the circum-
jacent coffers. Indeed his attributes, both personal and append-
ing, were very corresponding to those of the blind goddess
herself.
When we took our seats, this attentive deputy roused his
master; who, starting from his slumber, without the least shade
of recent sleep on any of his faculties, welcomed us with the
usual florid compliments of his country. This nobleman is about
seventy-five years of age; rather short in stature; his figure
spare and stooping; a thin, pallid, and withered visage; with
small sparkling eyes; his beard rather long, pointed, and dyed a
bright red. He is a man of considerable talent, and tact; the
latter being a most essential addition, in turning the first to
any important degree of advantage. The world has given him
another lesson too; and, perhaps, it does not belong more par-
ticularly to the Asiatic world, than to that of the great European
states in general; who, almost all, virtually acknowledge, that
power is the ambition of life, and that wealth is power. This
principle of the world has taught this Persian minister to grasp
VOL. I. S S
314 ANECDOTE OF MIRZA SHEFFY.
gold as the machine of Archimedes; and, from seeking to amass
it for his prince, he has habitually learnt to love it for itself.
9
Hence, presents are, as “light to his eyes;” they are never
repelled; but his mental sight is too strong to allow such matter
to blind it. Excepting another cotemporary politician, who, long
“seated in the West,” first on the right hand of a wild republic,
then at the side of a rigorous despotism, and lastly, by the throne
of a limited monarchy, preserved his place with all; perhaps there
is hardly another man, who, like Mirza Sheffy, could have main-
tained his station steadily, under the sceptre of two princes so
perfectly different in the principles of their sway, as Aga Ma-
homed Khan, and Futteh Ali Shah. Indeed, whatever may be
the shades, which habitual avidity has thrown over the daily acts
of this minister, he understands the business of his office, and
performs it diligently; and, being considered the second man in
the kingdom, (who has proved the loyal object of his wealth
by having made the Shah his heir l) he is treated, by all ranks,
with a degree of deference, hardly inferior to that of royalty
itself. A little anecdote that was told to me the other day, of
this minister, will show the master-passion, and the humour with
which he sometimes turns it into sport. His station near the
sovereign gives him a kind of reflecting consequence, that makes
a nod or a smile from him, so full of a similar quality, that it
may shed honour ad infinitum downwards; graduating dignity,
according to its distance from the original fountain of favour.
First one happy courtier, and then another, had received these
marks of peculiar grace; and, in consequence, became the little
centre of a temporary adulation from hundreds; many of whom
envied the favour they sought to conciliate, even at second, or
third hand. Amongst the latter order of suitors, was a rich, but
ANECDOTE OF MIRZA SHEFFY. 315
otherwise inconsiderable individual, who had long attended Mirza
Sheffy's levees, without having received the slightest notice; but
chancing one day to find the minister alone for a few moments,
he seized the opportunity, and thus addressed him :
“I have had the honour of placing myself, for these many
months back, in your Excellency's sight, in the midst of your
crowded halls, and yet have never had the happiness of receiving
a single glance. But if your Excellency would condescend, in
the next assembly of your visitors, to rise a little, on my entrance,
such a distinction would be the height of my ambition; I should
thenceforth be held of consequence in the eyes of the khans.
And for this honour, I would give your Excellency a consider-
ation of one hundred tomauns.”
It was an argument his Excellency liked so well, he closed
with the proposal, and the time for the solemn investing-dignity
was arranged for the next day. The happy man took care not
to make his appearance till the divan of the minister was pretty
well filled. He then presented himself on the most conspicuous
part of the carpet, big with ideas of the ever-growing honours,
of which that moment was to make him master. He looked
proudly round on the rest of the khans, while Mirza Sheffy,
half-raising himself from his seat, by his knuckles, and fixing his
eyes gravely on him, to the no small astonishment of the rest of
the company, exclaimed, “Is that enough P” The man was so
overcome with confusion, he hurried from the room ; leaving
his distinction and his money alike with the minister; but taking
with him the useful lesson, that bought honours are generally paid
with disgrace. The laugh for once went, without doubt of sin-
cerity, with the great man ; and his smiles became of still higher
value, since it had been proved that he set them above price.
S S 2
316 THE NOWROOSE.
The 21st of March, the impatiently anticipated day of the
most joyous festival of Persia, at last arrived. It is called the
feast of the Nowroose, or that of the commencement of the new
year; and its institution is attributed to the celebrated Jemsheed,
who, according to the traditions of the country, and the frag-
ments yet preserved of its early native historians, was the sixth
in descent from Noah, and the fourth sovereign of Persia, of
the race of Kaiomurs, the grandson of Noah. To Jemsheed the
Persians ascribe their best laws, the origin of their useful arts,
and the establishment of their chief cities. In short, they give
him a reign of seven hundred years. During which period, he
plants vineyards, and becomes the inventor of wine; he divides
his people into classes; he institutes holy festivals; and becomes
so prosperous in all his deeds, that he forgets he owes his good
fortune to any superior being than himself; and arrogating the
powers of a God, he commands his people to worship him. In
consequence of this impiety, Divine vengeance pursues him; he
is driven from his throne; and at last dies at the feet of a ruth-
less conqueror. All this is a great confusion of real events,
falsely attributed to one man; but which we find recorded in the
sacred and profane histories of the countries which once formed
the great Persian empire, not of one prince, but of a variety of
persons, from Noah until Alexander. This preposterous mis-
take may, however, be easily accounted for, when we recollect
the exaggerating genius of the people; and that all their present
records of those times arise from tradition, and a few scattered
remnants of former annals, compiled into heroic verse by the
imagination of a poet, who lived four hundred years after the
archives had been destroyed by the jealousy of the Mahomedan
conquerors of Persia; and, consequently, the present narrators
THE NOWROOSE. 317
may be excused, for the errors of bewildered memories, the diffi-
culty of reconciling fragments, and the creations with which en-
thusiastic fancy attempted to supply the defects. But to return
to the feast of the Nowroose. It is acknowledged to have been
celebrated from the earliest ages, in Persia, independent of what-
ever religions reigned there; whether the simple worship of the
One Great Being, or under the successive rites of Magian, Pagan,
or Mahomedan institutions. But the account given of its origin
is this: —Jemsheed, after dividing time into two kinds of years,
civil and religious, and introducing an intercalary month to
keep the calendar in due order with the seasons, established the
festival in question, to commemorate the act, and to take place
on the first day of the new solar year; which, according to
his arrangement, was to commence at the time of the natural
reproduction of all things that conduce to the subsistence of
man. The calculation of the year, commonly in use at present
in Persia, is by the moon ; which makes it some days shorter
than our year of Europe. Each month begins and ends with
the moon, by whose changes the religious fasts and festivals of
their prophet are regulated. But the solar year, which was the
division by Jemsheed, begins the moment the sun enters Aries;
(from which time is dated the first day of the spring also,) and
consists of twelve months, of twenty-nine, and thirty days each.
It is at the commencement of this solar year, that the Nowroose
is celebrated. Jemsheed fixed upon his capital, as the place of
solemnity; and that, probably, was the city of Balk; it having
been the residence of his ancestor, Kaiomurs; and afterwards
long known as the metropolis of the early Persian monarchs.
The feast was to continue six days. On the first, and in the
whole assembly of his people, the king bestowed marks of his
318 THE NOWROOSE.
favour on the humblest class of his subjects, addressing the throng
in these terms: *
“This is a new day, of a new month, of a new year ! I have
thus arranged the time, and call you together, that we may be
the better enabled to follow nature in her progress. Also, to
cement those ties closer which have hitherto united us; and,
like the inseparable succession of the seasons, to enjoy in our
hearts those blessings which unity ensures.”
On the second day of the festival, he rewarded his counsellors,
and ministers; on the third, he dealt out similar benefits to the
learned and skilful; the fourth was appropriated to the reception
of his royal relations, and the general mass of nobility; whilst the
two remaining days, were dedicated to universal rejoicing, feasting,
and shows. Thus far, the accounts of the poet Ferdoussi, and the
few scattered fragments of history, from which he drew his tale.
But in the festival itself, which is on all sides acknowledged to
be of so ancient a celebration, that tradition must go back to
the patriarchal ages for its institution ; and from its being found
near the very spot whence the descent from the ark was made;
I must own that I see sufficient evidence to admit the proba-
bility that it even originated with, or rather was re-appointed
by, the venerable antediluvian Patriarch himself. In this light,
it may be an interesting subject to all mankind; as a memorial of
the creation of the world in six days, of the first spring to man,
of the general equality of his race; excepting the filial homage,
due to its paternal head; who, before the flood, might at the
great anniversary of the world's birth, have thus called the
fathers of the families of the earth together, to remind them
whence they sprung. In such a case, there can be no doubt
that Noah would receive the sacred ordinance, in a direct line
THE NOWROOSE. 319
from Adam. And after his descent from the ark, which took
place at the same vernal season of the year; when the world
seemed created afresh, from the destruction of the deluge; and
mankind were to spring again, as well as the earth; it does not
appear unlikely, that in re-establishing the ancient usage, he
would cause it to be considered in a double view, that of
commemorating two such similar events, as the creation of the
world, and its restoration. Indeed, some writers call the
Nowroose the feast of the waters; which bears well upon the idea
of its having been a memorial of the Deluge. Similar traces,
of commemorating the same event; some signal calamity having
befallen the world, and its as extraordinary recovery to newness
of life; may be very generally found, in the customs of all nations.
In pagan countries, the Saturnalia was one instance, out of many,
which evidently pointed to this circumstance; the birth of the
world, and the equality of mankind, in the golden age. And, at
almost the same period of the year, we find the feast of the Pass-
over amongst the Jews; which commemorates to them, a mighty
deliverance of that people, from a state of civil death in Egypt, to
a happy existence, in the possession of Canaan. And we have
Easter in the Christian world, as an everlasting remembrance of
the awful event at Calvary, and the consequent regeneration of all
mankind. Hence, as all these several great festivals, of every
age, and every people, were celebrated at the same season of the
year; and all evidencing, by record or implication, some grand
renewal of benefits to man, I cannot but consider the precedent
of them all, as having primarily descended from Adam to Noah;
and thence dispersed abroad, by use, and tradition, throughout
every nation of the earth; to be followed, by the succession of
blessings before enumerated.
320 THE NOWROOSE.
Amongst other gratulatory testimonies of good will, eggs
dyed, or gilded, are mutually presented by the assembled
multitude at this feast, in the same way that they are interchanged
at the festival of Easter, by the members of the Greek church.
I recollect the same custom, at the same sacred anniversary, in
the northern counties of England. But I have never been able,
abroad nor at home, to obtain any explanation whatever of the
usage; and the only conjecture I can offer is, that eggs made of
gold, having been a very ancient mode of tribute in the East;
eggs, natural or artificial, might originally have been brought, in
this character, by various degrees of persons, to be paid to the
sovereign presiding at the great spring festival; and afterwards,
when Christianity was introduced to this part of the world, and
Easter instituted, the sign of former homage to one man, might
change its direction, and, dispersed about, become a mark of
common brotherhood.
I shall now describe the great féte of Persia, as it is celebrated
in these modern times. On the evening preceding the day of
its commencement, the King sends abroad his kaalats, shawls,
&c., as badges of honour, to the persons highest in his con-
sideration ; and the British Chargé d'Affaires, with myself, were
included in the honourable distinction. Next morning, we
equipped ourselves in the royal insignia, wearing it over our
uniforms; and awaited the arrival of the officer from the court,
who was to conduct us to the presence. This was no less a
personage, than the chief executioner; and such an attendant
was to be esteemed one of the greatest marks of respect which
could have been shown by the Persian monarch. -
It was a fine morning, and at eight o'clock we mounted our
horses; proceeding through narrow streets, and a part of the
THE NOWROOSE. . 321
bazar, which terminated at the outer gate of the ark. After
passing over an open space, we crossed the bridge of the citadel,
and thence were conducted into a very large square. A dome-
shaped building of wood open to the eye, appeared in the middle
of the place; and under its roof stood the enormous brass
cannon, which Chardin mentions having seen in the Maidan-shah,
at Ispahan. It was brought from that capital several years ago,
and stationed here, on a huge, and apparently immoveable
carriage. Old guns, of various calibre, all equally awkward and
unmanageable, and mingled with a few of modern fabrick, stand
round the sides of this central structure. Not far distant, about
two hundred swivels lay in rows on the ground. They belonged to
the camel corps, who were on duty to salute the king on his
entrance into the great assembly of his people. And, indeed,
it might well have that title; for persons of all ranks were
thronged together, within the walls of this outer court. Persians
of the lowest orders, some decently attired, others in the rags of
mendicity; khans in kaalats (the robe of honour) covered with
gold and brocade; servants in gorgeous coats; and soldiers in
their military garbs; all pressed on each other in one equalizing
mob. It was not practicable to get our horses through such a
mass of human beings; so we dismounted at the entrance
of the square, and following the necessity of shouldering our
way to the opposite egress, tried by that wedge-like motion, to
make a passage to the royal portal. Awe of the chief heads-man,
did not widen the path an inch; neither did the hard-plied
sticks of the Chargé d'Affaires’ domestics in front, effect the
slightest breach; they might as well have battered a wall.
However we got through at last, with no small impression made
upon our court-apparel, and the shawls of our waists rent into
VOL. I. T T
\
322 DESCRIPTION OF THE COURT.
as many strips as we had had tugs in our passage. Leaving the
throng behind, we turned under a narrow and dark arch-way,
to a low and very small door, and entered through it at once
upon the quarter of the palace. It shewed a spacious area, shaded
with trees, and intersected by water. In the centre, stood the
splendid edifice where his Majesty was to sit to receive the
homage of his subjects. We were led towards the southern
aspect of this place, the grand saloon fronting that way, where
the ceremony of royal presentation was to be performed, and
were carefully stationed at the point deemed the best for seeing
and hearing the Great King. Before his Majesty appeared, I
had time to observe the disposition of the scene, in which this
illustrious personage was to act so conspicuous, a part.
Rows of high poplars, and of other trees, divide this immense
court, or rather garden, into several avenues. That which runs
along the midst of the garden is the widest; enclosing a, Ila.TIOW
piece of still water, stretching from end to end, and animated
here and there, with a few little jets d'eau ; the margins of which
were spread with oranges, pears, apples, grapes, and dried fruit,
all heaped on plates, set close together, like a chain. Another
slip of water, faced diagonally the front of the palace; and its
fountains being more direct in the view of the monarch, were of
greater magnificence and power, shooting up to a height of
three or four feet ! a sublimity of hydraulic art, which the
Persians suppose cannot be equalled in any other country.
Along the marble edges of this canal and fountains, were also
placed fruits of every description, in pyramids; and between
each elevated range of plates, with these their glowing contents,
stood vases filled with flowers, of a beautiful fabric, in wax,
that seemed to want nothing of nature, but its perfume. In a
THE PERSIAN EAGLE. 323 :
line, beyond these, were set a regular row of the finest china
bowls, filled with sherbet. So far, the refreshments of the fête.
The company were thus disposed:—in two parallel files, down
the sides of the wide centre avenue, stood the khans and other
Persians of rank; many of whom we had been constrained to
elbow, in our way to the place of ceremony. They were arrayed
in their most costly attire, of gold or silver brocades; and some
of them wearing, in addition, the royal kaalat, which usually
consists of a pelisse lined with fine furs, and covered with the rich-
est embroidery. Their heads were bound with Keshmere shawls,
ofevery colour and value. All these persons had been arranged in
their places, by the master of the ceremonies; or rather, accord-
ing to his own consequence, we might style him grand-marshal
of the palace; for the duty he performed, was much in the way
of our ancient heraldic officers at royal feasts; and besides, he
was of such high personal dignity in himself, as to be son-in-law
to the king. He was preceded in the exercise of his office, by a
man bearing before him an enamelled wand, surmounted by a
bird of the same delicate construction. This now insignia of de-
legated authority, may be some remains of the glorious eagle-
standard, which Xenophon mentions as the early ensign of
Persia. It consisted of a golden eagle, placed at the end of a
long pike, and was used by the Persian monarchs in his time,
both as a sceptre, and a military rallying point. How, then, do
things change, since this badge of the proudest sovereignty, is
lowered to the humble duty of a staff of office, in the hands of a
deputy máitre des ceremonies. -
The royal procession made its appearance. First, the elder
sons of the King entered, at the side on which we stood; Abbas
Mirza taking the left of the whole, which brought him to the
T T 2 - -
324 THE BEAUTY OF THE PERSIAN PRINCES.
right of the throne. His brothers followed, till they nearly
closed upon us. Directly opposite to this elder rank of princes,
all grown to manhood, their younger brothers arranged them-
selves on the other side of the transverse water; and as they
were marshalled according to their age, I recognised my little
travelling companion in the last. They were all superbly
habited, in the richest brocade vests and shawl-girdles, from the
folds of which glittered the jewelled hilts of their daggers. Each
wore a sort of robe of gold stuff, lined, and deeply collared with
the most delicate sables, falling a little below the shoulder, and
reaching to the calf of the leg. Around their black caps, they
too had wound the finest shawls. Every one of them, from the
eldest to the youngest, wore bracelets of the most brilliant rubies
and emeralds, just above the bend of the elbow. The personal
beauty of these princes, was even more extraordinary, to the eyes
of a traveller, than the splendour of their dresses; there was not
one of them, who might not have been particularised any where
else, as most eminently handsome. A fine line of features, large
dark eyes full of lustre, graceful stature, and a noble mien, made
them, indeed, an object of admiring wonder in themselves.
At some distance, near the front of the palace, appeared an-
other range of highly-revered personages; moullahs, astrologers,
and other sages of this land of the East, clothed in their more
sombre garments of religion and philosophy. Here was no
noise, no bustle of any kind; every person standing quietly in
his place, respectfully awaiting the arrival of the monarch. At
last, the sudden discharge of the swivels from the camel-corps
without, with the clangor of trumpets, and I know not what con-
gregation of uproarious sounds besides, announced that. His
Majesty had entered the gate of the citadel. But the most
extraordinary part of this clamour, was the appalling roar of two
MAGNIFICENCE OF FUTTEH ALI SHAH. 325
huge elephants, trained to the express purpose of giving this
note of the especial movements of the Great King.
He entered the saloon from the left, and advanced to the front
of it, with an air and step which belonged entirely to a so-
vereign. I never before had beheld any thing like such perfect
majesty; and he seated himself on his throne with the same un-
describable, unaffected dignity. Had there been any assumption
in his manner, I could not have been so impressed. I should
then have seen a man, though a king, theatrically acting his
state; here, I beheld a great sovereign feeling himself as such,
and he looked the majesty he felt. . -
He was one blaze of jewels, which literally dazzled the sight
on first looking at him; but the details of his dress were these :
A lofty tiara of three elevations was on his head, which shape
appears to have been long peculiar to the crown of the Great
King. It was entirely composed of thickly-set diamonds, pearls,
rubies, and emeralds, so exquisitely disposed, as to form a mix-
ture of the most beautiful colours, in the brilliant light reflected
from its surface. Several black feathers, like the heron-plume,
were intermixed with the resplendent aigrettes of this truly im-
perial diadem, whose bending points were finished with pear-
formed pearls, of an immense size. His vesture was of gold
tissue, nearly covered with a similar disposition of jewellery; and,
crossing the shoulders, were two strings of pearls, probably the
largest in the world. I call his dress a vesture, because it sat
close to his person, from the neck to the bottom of the waist,
showing a shape as noble as his air. At that point, it devolved
downwards in loose drapery, like the usual Persian garment, and
was of the same costly materials with the vest. . But for splen-
dour, nothing could exceed the broad bracelets round his arms,
326 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROYAL JEWELS.
and the belt which encircled his waist; they actually blazed like
fire, when the rays of the sun met them ; and when we know the
names derived from such excessive lustre, we cannot be surprised
at seeing such an effect. The jewelled band on the right arm
was called The Mountain of Light; and that on the left, The Sea
of Light; and which superb diamonds, the rapacious conquests
of Nadir Shah had placed in the Persian regalia, after sacking
Delhi, stripping Mahomed Shah, the eleventh emperor of the
Moguls, of his dominions, and adding to Persia all the provinces
of Hindostan, north of the Indus. In the horrible spoliation of
the Mogul capital, which took place hardly eighty years ago,
upwards of a hundred thousand Indians were massacred; and
the treasure transported thence to Persia, is computed to have
been worth sixty million tomauns; but no part of it was so
highly prized as these transcendant precious stones. Here,
again, we cannot but recall the observation, that the character
of a sovereign, in most cases, has that of his people, politically
speaking, in his hands. Let us remember what the Swedes
were, under Charles the Twelfth and Gustavus Adolphus; what
Russia was, under Peter the Great and the Emperor Alexander;
what Persia was under Cyrus, and even groaning beneath the
yoke of this monster, Nadir Shah ; and what may it not become
under a race like this of Futteh Ali Shah; when a merciful and
liberal mind, attempering the severities of war, would attach
countries and people to its empire, which ambition, blinded by
ignorance, thinks can only be maintained by making the con-
quered land a desart *
The celebrated throne which Nadir Shah tore from under the
Mogul emperors, was not brought forth at this festival; that from
which Futteh Ali Shah viewed his assembled subjects, was better
THE THRONE. 327
suited to the benignant nature of the meeting, than such a
trophy. That was gorgeous with Indian magnificence, and,
might we not say, red with the blood of its defeated princes !
This was a platform of pure white marble, an apt emblem of
peace, raised a few steps from the ground, and carpeted with
shawls and cloth of gold, on which the King sat in the fashion
of his country, while his back was supported by a large cushion,
encased in a net-work of pearls. The spacious apartment in
which this simple seat of majesty was erected, is open from
the roof of the building nearly to the earth, on the side op-
posite to the assembled people; and supported, in front, by
two twisted columns of white marble, fluted with gold. The
interior of the saloon was profusely decorated with carving, gild-
ing, arabesque painting, and looking-glass; which latter material
was, in a manner, interwoven with all the other wreathing orna-
ments, gleaming and glittering in every part from the vaulted
ceiling to the floor. Vases of waxen flowers, others with rose-
water, &c. were arranged about the apartment; though they
could scarcely be seen, from the close ranks of the very young
princes, who crowded near their royal parent.
While the Great King was approaching his throne, the whole
assembly, with one accord, continued bowing their heads to the
ground till he had taken his place. A dead silence then ensued;
the whole presenting a most magnificent, and indeed awful ap-
pearance; the stillness being so profound, amongst so vast a
concourse, that the slightest rustling of the trees was heard, and
the softest trickling of the water from the fountains into the canals.
As the motionless state of every thing lasted for more than a
minute, it allowed me time to observe particularly the figure of the
Shah. His face seemed exceedingly pale, of a polished marble
hue; with the finest contour of features; and eyes dark, bril-
328 - CEREMONIES OF THE COURT.
liant, and piercing; a beard black as jet, and of a length which
fell below his chest, over a large portion of the effulgent belt
which held his diamond-hilted dagger. This extraordinary am-
plitude of beard, appears to have been a badge of Persian
royalty, from the earliest times; for we find it attached to the
heads of the sovereigns, in all the ancient sculptured remains
throughout the empire. * -
In the midst of this solemn stillness, while all eyes were fixed
on the bright object before them, which sat, indeed, as radiant
and immoveable as the image of Mithrus itself, a sort of volley
of words, bursting at one impulse from the mouths of the
moullahs and astrologers, made me start, and interrupted my
gaze. This strange outcry, was a kind of heraldic enumeration
of the Great King's titles, dominions, and glorious acts; with
an appropriate panegyric on his courage, liberality, and extended
power. When this was ended, with all heads bowing to the
ground, and the air ceased to vibrate with the sounds, there was a
pause for about half a minute, and then His Majesty spoke. The
effect was even more startling than the sudden bursting forth of
the moullahs; for this was like a voice from the tombs, so deep,
so hollow, and at the same time so penetratingly loud. Having
thus addressed his people, he looked towards Captain Willock
the British Chargé d'Affaires, with whom I stood; and then we
moved forward to the front of the throne. The same awful
voice, though in a lowered tone, spoke to him, and honoured
me with a gracious welcome to his dominions. After His Ma-
jesty had put a few questions to me, and received my answers,
we fell back into our places; and were instantly served with
bowls of a most delicious sherbet, which very grateful refreshment
was followed by an attendant presenting to us a large silver
tray; on which lay a heap of small coin called a shy, of the
THE CELEBRATION OF THE NOWROOSE. 329
same metal, mixed with a few pieces of gold. I imitated my
friend in all these ceremonies, and held out both my hands to
be filled with this royal largess; which, with no little difficulty,
we passed through our festal trappings into our pockets.
When the rest of the gratulatory compliments of the day,
had been uttered between the monarch and his assembled nobles,
the chief executioner, our former herald, gave us the signal that
all was over for that morning. We then retired, as we came,
under his auspices; but, if possible, with still more pressure
and heat than we had battled through in our approach.
The celebration of the feast was to last six days; several even-
ings of which were dedicated to the display of fireworks; and
the mornings, to the reception of presents to the King, from his
sons the Prince-governors of the provinces, also from his minis-
ters, khans, &c. These offerings generally consist of mule and
camel loads of gold stuffs, shawls, or any rare and valuable
commodity, which money or good fortune may throw in the way
of the donor. I am told that the amount brought into the royal
treasury by this various tribute, is enormous ; and that it rather
increases than diminishes, on every succeeding anniversary. One
day is allotted to horse-racing; but, for some reason, it was
postponed at this fête to a more distant period. With the taste
common to my countrymen, for such exhibitions in general, I
more particularly wished to see the style of that entertainment
in a kingdom of the East, where the horse, like our own, is one
of the boasts of the country; but at this time, I was so little in a
frame of mind to enjoy the sight, or indeed to take that interest
in the progress of the week of the Nowroose, which I otherwise
should have done, that after my first appearance at the fête, I
devoted the greatest part of every day, and much of the night,
WOL. I. U U
330 FUNERAL OF DR. DRUMMOND CAMPBELL.
to the cause of my anxiety; my poor friend Drummond Camp-
bell, who had returned to Teheran from the hills, rather worse
than amended by either of the changes.
Captain Willock, and myself, attended him closely ; but not-
withstanding all our care, and the very best medical assistance
which Persia could afford, for the anxiety of the Prince Royal
was almost equal to our own, on the morning of the twenty-fifth
of March he breathed his last. We stood by his bed-side with
his kind physician; and it was one of the severest pangs I ever
endured, to see a young man, thus in the morning of his life,
and full of the brightest talents, yield up that useful life in a
foreign land; far from a kindred who loved him with the ten-
derest affections, and who, even at that time, were looking
towards the honours he was deriving here, with the fondest ex-
pectations. And our pang was the more, in thinking that when
they should hear of his dying, thus distant from them, and far
from the rites of his religion, they might doubt of his having had
one human being of his own faith to perform the last solemn duty,
of closing his eyes. But the Chargé d'Affaires, afterwards, took
care to give his bereaved parents the comfort of knowing that
Heaven had brought to their son's pillow, not merely his country-
men, but men whom his virtues had long made his friends.
We followed him to the grave, with the sincerest mourning,
and saw him interred with all the respect which the limited
Christian establishment in this country would allow. He was
buried in the interior of the Armenian church at Teheran, not
far from the altar; the funeral service being performed, first by
the priest of that faith, and then, according to the protestant
ritual, by Captain Willock. When we took our leave of the
spot, which contained the remains of our lamented friend, I
- ~~
GENERAL REGRET FOR HIS LOSS. 331
could not but feel, that no sepulchral monument that ever bore
the name of Campbell, could cover the ashes of one more
formed to reflect honour on the illustrious clan from which he
sprung. He had scarcely attained his twenty-fifth year, when
he bade us and the world farewell; and no European, dying in
these dominions, probably was ever more deeply regretted by
the Persians, from the King himself to the humblest of his sº
subjects; his kindly disposition having been as prompt, as his
talents were various; and therefore powerful to serve, from the
highest to the lowest rank. The Kyme Makaum, Mirza
Bouzoork, whose friendship is not more esteemed from its great
influence, than for the distinguished nobleness of his character,
loved Campbell as if he had been his son ; and Abbas Mirza
held him so near to his heart, that when Captain Willock and
myself went to him after the sad event, his first words were,
“I know not whether to offer my consolations to you for the
irreparable loss we have sustained, or to ask you to give me
yours.”
Above a fortnight elapsed after our friend's obsequies, before
the day arrived which had been appointed for the grand horse-
race. During the interval, his Majesty had been fully informed
of my objects in coming to his country, and in the most gracious
manner he acceded to all I wished, with regard to visiting the
interior of his dominions; while the remarks he made on the
subject, made me often recognise the near affinity between him
and his son, even more by the similarity of mental intelligence,
than the general resemblance in their persons.
But I had yet much to see in the city and its environs, before
I pursued my journey; and I received facilities from every
quarter. My old acquaintance, Abul Hassan Khan, whom I
U U 2 -
332 - ROYAL PAVILION.
had known at St. Petersburgh, during his stay there as ambas-
sador, was politely eager to return me every hospitable attention
at his sovereign's capital, and to point out the most interesting
objects in its neighbourhood. Hence I had a variety of kind,
and well-informed cicerones; and lost no time in visiting every
note-worthy spot in the town, and the many sumptuous palaces,
with their boasted gardens, which formed the circumjacent
scenery; besides the interesting objects of antiquity, which
stretched along the Elborz, from their fabled heights, to the
base of the mountains, where lay the ever-venerable ruins
of Rhey. - e
In the midst of these occupations, my attention was recalled
to the horse-race; and it took place on the 11th of April. Soon
after six o'clock, in a beautiful spring morning, we rode to the
field of action. It was about two miles from the city, beyond
the Casvin gate; where, I was told by one of my Persian friends,
I should see “the fiery coursers of Iran, pass over the untouched
earth with the velocity of lightning.” When arrived at the
spot, we found a superb pavilion, which had been pitched the
night before, for the reception of the King. It was lined with
brocaded silk, and carpeted with the most splendid manufacture
of Kerman. A chair of state, embroidered with precious stones,
with the imperial kalioun, and a little vase or crachoir, all em-
bellished in the same costly style, stood under the canopy, facing
its opening. Already hundreds of khans, on gorgeously-
caparisoned horses, with their respective trains, had ranged
themselves in front of the tent, leaving an intermediate space
for the race. - g -
A volley from the swivels of the camel-corps, proclaimed
when his Majesty mounted at the gate of his palace; and soon
COSTUME OF THE KING'S GUARDS. 333
after, a cavalcade, like a little army, appeared in that direction
from the city. About four hundred of these soldiers of state,
seated on their fine camels, and each armed with his swivel,
moving on a pivot at the point of his saddle in front, imme-
diately preceded the rest of the royal procession. The uniform
of this corps is red, and something like the fashion of our British
regimentals about twenty or thirty years ago. They wear a bright
brass cap, of a cone shape, with a bunch of cock-feathers stuck
in the pointed top. There was nothing martial in their appear-
ance; and so little of dignity, from the incongruity of their
oddly-mixed half European costume, with the Asiatic animals
they rode, that the troop rather recalled to my risible faculties,
certain impressions connected with cavalcades I had seen in
England, accompanying our splendid shows of wild beasts, than
suggested the respectful ideas which belong to a regal escort.
This corps were followed by a great number of horsemen, in no
very regular line; and then came a long train of tchatters, or
running-footmen, clothed in light blue, who immediately pre-
ceded the royal personage himself. His Majesty rode quite
alone, mounted on an eminently beautiful steed, naturally of
spotless white; but, according to a particular badge of so-
vereignty, the creature was stained of a gaudy orange colour, all
along the lower part of his body, in a direct line from the swell
of the chest to the tail. The King's appearance, as before, pos-
sessed every thing of perfect majesty; but here it was all de-
rived from his own person, his dress being more simple than
any of his assembled nobles; all his ornaments consisted of
pearls; and, though of the highest value, they gave grace, but
not splendour to his habit. Abbas Mirza, as heir apparent, with
the rest of the royal family, and the court, closed the rear of the
334 HORSE-RACES.
train. And as soon as the King reached the pavilion, and his
foot touched the earth, another volley from the advanced-guard
proclaimed aloud that his Majesty had alighted. He then took
his seat in the regal chair, and, till the opening of the sport, con-
versed with several of his ministers.
My curiosity was fully on the spur to see the racers; which,
I could not doubt, must have been chosen from the best in the
nation, to exhibit the perfection of its breed before the Sovereign.
The rival horses were divided into three successive sets, in order
to lengthen the amusement. They had been in training for
several weeks past; going over the ground very often during
that period; and when I did see them, I found so much pains
had been taken to sweat and reduce their weight, that their bones
were nearly cutting the skin. The distance marked for the race,
was a stretch of twenty-four miles; and, that his Majesty might
not have to wait when he had reached the field, the horses had
set forward long before, by their three divisions, from the starting
point; (a short interval of time passing between each set;) so that
they might come in, a few minutes after the King had taken his
seat. Hence, these high-mettled coursers had been galloping all
night; and, in regular order, the different divisions arrived at the
goal; all so fatigued and exhausted, that their former boasted
fleetness, hardly exceeded a moderate canter, when they passed
before the royal eyes.
I do not exactly know how it happened, but the Shah's horses
generally won; and, I am informed, that when it falls out other-
wise, the owner of the fortunate steed always presents it to His
Majesty. The poor beasts were ridden by boys of all ages, sizes,
and weights; some in shirts, and others in their usual attire,
with handkerchiefs bound round their heads; so that no equality
ROYAL PALACES. 335
of burthen was preserved, and under every disadvantage the
whole party strained alike over the course. My pity for the fine
animals, which had apparently been so injudiciously managed,
was proportioned to my disappointment; but on making some
remarks on the subject, I found, that swiftness over a certain
portion of ground in a given time, was not, as with us, the
object of a Persian race. The aim here, is to possess a breed of
horses, so trained as to be able to go a regular rapid pace, under
privation, and carrying any sort of weight, for a great many hours
together; a sort of horse which is essential in this country, for
the dispatch of business, the swift march of armies, and often, in
cases of military reverse, to save the lives of its great men. As
soon as the third division swept by, His Majesty rose, and
mounting his steed, returned to the palace in the same state
with which he left it. 4. -
Having, for the most part, described the royal residence in the
ark, attached to the city, I shall not say any thing more of its
details, but proceed to the agrémens of two much more delightful
palaces, in the neighbourhood. One, called the Tackt-i-Kajer,
is situated about three miles to the north-east of the town ;
being intended as a summer retreat from the toils of state,
whenever the King might find it expedient to pass the whole
year at Teheran. But this rarely happens, Khorasan, or Sul-
tania, or Oujan, being, in general, his abodes during the very
warm months. Tackt-i-Kajer, however, is constantly inhabited
by any number of his ladies of the harem, whom he may not
choose should accompany him on his farther journeys. It stands
on an eminently pleasant point of the adjoining mountains, being
built on a detached, and commanding hill, on the great slope of
the Elborz. The edifice is lofty, and when seen from a distance,
336 > Roy AL GARDENs.
presents a very magnificent appearance. The stateliness of the
structure itself, is very much increased in effect, by the superb
ranges of terraces, which connect its spacious gardens, as they
diverge from the base of the building, downwards, towards
the bottom of the hill. They are laid out in parallel walks,
planted with luxuriant poplars, willows, and fruit-trees of various
kinds, besides rose-trees in profusion. In the centre of these
shady labyrinths, stands a kind of grotto or temple, which, from
its construction, materials, and distribution of water, must, in
summer, be delightful from its coolness and seclusion. Few of
the flowers were in bud, when I first visited this charming spot;
but the balmy season, advancing with singular rapidity in these
higher tracts of Persia, soon covered every mountain's brow with
rich herbage, and filled the whole air with perfume from the full-
blown gardens. The spring, at Teheran, is not only the pleasant-
est of its seasons, but the most healthy; which I found by
experience; while I was there, during the months of April and
May, the thermometer of Reaumur never mounting to more than
from 70 to 80 in the shade. In the short space of those few weeks,
the whole country put on its fairest garb, looking enchantingly,
and breathing sweets from every quarter; and how often did
we then think of our poor friend, whose eyes we had so recently
closed ; and wished, he could have borne the last lingering
severities of departing winter a little longer, to have inhaled new
life in this balmy relenting of nature
One of the delicious spots to which I paid the most frequent
visits, after the commencement of the genial weather I speak of,
was the garden of Negauristan, another palace of the King's, in
the same direction as the one just described, but only half a mile
from the city. Its near neighbourhood, as well as superior
ROSE-TREES IN PERSIA. 337
beauty, often attracts the Shah to walk to it from the ark, and
to pass hours there, in the most delightful relaxation of mind
from the cares or ceremonies of state. The general character
of the garden, is like that of Tackt-i-Kajer, only the grand avenue
up the centre of this, is much wider than that of the more
distant residence, and is terminated at the higher extremity by
a view of the palace; while a Kooleh Frangy, or temple, appears
here also between the spacious arcade of trees. Narrow secluded
walks, shaded above, and enamelled with flowers below, with
cuts of clear and sparkling water, silvering the ground, and
cooling the air, vary the scene, from parts which the hand of
neglect, (or taste, assuming graceful negligence,) has left in a state
of romantic wilderness. The trees were all full grown, and lux-
uriant in foliage ; while their lofty stems, nearly covered by a
rich underwood of roses, lilacs, and other fragrant and aromatic
shrubs, formed the finest natural tapestry of leaves and flowers.
On my first entering this bower of fairy-land, (indeed I may
call it the very garden of Beauty and the Beast !) I was struck
with the appearance of two rose-trees, full fourteen feet high,
laden with thousands of flowers, in every degree of expansion,
and of a bloom and delicacy of scent, that imbued the whole
atmosphere with the most exquisite perfume. Indeed, I believe
that in no country of the world does the rose grow in such per-
fection as in Persia; in no country is it so cultivated, and prized
by the natives. Their gardens and courts are crowded with its
plants, their rooms ornamented with vases, filled with its gathered
bunches, and every bath strewed with the full-blown flowers,
plucked from the ever-replenished stems. Even the humblest
individual, who pays a piece of copper money for a few whifs of
a kalioun, feels a double enjoyment when he finds it stuck with
VOL. I. X X
338 ROYAL GARDENS.
a bud from his dear native tree! But in this delicious garden of
Negauristan, the eye and the smell were not the only senses
regaled by the presence of the rose. The ear was enchanted by
the wild and beautiful notes of multitudes of nightingales, whose
warblings seem to increase in melody and softness, with the un-
folding of their favourite flowers; verifying the song of their
poet, who says: “When the roses fade, when the charms of the
bower are passed away, the fond tale of the nightingale no
longer animates the scene.” -
At the upper end of the garden, is a small and fantastically built
palace, enclosed in a little paradise of sweets. The Shah often
retires thither, for days together, at the beginning of summer,
before he removes to more distant and temperate regions; and
accompanied by the softer sex of his family, forgets, for awhile,
that life or the world have other seasons than the gay and lovely
spring. This building was of a light architecture, and, with its
secluded garden, presented altogether a scene more congenial to
the ideas I had conceived of one of these earthly imitations of
the Houris’ abodes, than any I had yet met in the East. The
palace was nearly circular, full of elegant apartments, brilliantly
adorned with gilding, arabesque, looking-glasses, and flowers
natural and painted, in every quarter. Some of the largest
saloons, were additionally ornamented with pictures; portraits
of the Shah and his sons; of the chief personages at court; also
of foreign ministers ; and amongst the rest, were General Sir
John Malcolm, Sir Hartford Jones, Sir Gore Ousely, Monsieur
Gardanne, &c. &c. &c., all pourtrayed in high costume, and all
like one and the same original. The carpets and nummuds of
these apartments, were of the most delicate fabric, and literally,
as we moved, we felt treading on velvet. But the place of
THE SUMMER BATH. 339
greatest attraction to an oriental taste, certainly was the summer-
bath. It seemed to comprise every thing of seclusion, elegance,
and that luxurious enjoyment, which has too often been the
chief occupation of some Asiatic princes; and perhaps will ever
be the favourite recreation with them all. This bath-saloon, or
court, (for it is difficult to give it an exactly appropriate name,)
is circular, with a vast basin in its centre, of pure white marble,
of the same shape, and about sixty or seventy feet in diameter.
This is filled with the clearest water, sparkling in the sun, for
its only canopy is the vault of heaven; but rose-trees, with other
pendant shrubs bearing flowers, cluster near it; and, at times,
their waving branches throw a beautifully quivering shade over
the excessive brightness of the water. Round the sides of the
court, are two ranges, one above the other, of little chambers,
looking towards the bath, and furnished with every refinement
of the harem. These are for the accommodation of the ladies,
who accompany the Shah during his occasional sojourns at the
Negauristan. They undress or repose in these, before or after
the delight of bathing; for so fond are they of this luxury, they
remain in the water for hours; and sometimes, when the heat
is very relaxing, come out more dead than alive. But in this
delightful recess, the waters flow through the basin by a constant
spring; thus renewing the body's vigour, by their bracing
coolness; and enchantingly refreshing the air, which the sun’s
influence, and the thousand flowers breathing around, might
otherwise render oppressive with their incense. The royal
master of this Horti Adonidis, frequently takes his noon-day
repose in one of the upper chambers which encircle the saloon
of the bath; and, if he be inclined, he has only to turn his eyes
to the scene below, to see the loveliest objects of his tenderness,
X X 2
340 PLURALITY OF WIVES AND HUSBANDs.
sporting like naiads amidst the crystal stream, and glowing with
all the bloom and brilliancy which belongs to Asiatic youth.
In such a bath-court, it is probable that Bathsheba was seen by
the enamoured king of Israel. As he was “walking at evening-
tide on the roof of his palace,” he might undesignedly have
strolled far enough to overlook the anderoon of his women; where
the beautiful wife of Uriah, visiting the royal wives, might have
joined them, as was often the custom in those countries, in the
delights of the bath.
Love of women appears to have always been one of the most
dominant passions in the East; and, what it was in the earliest
times, it remains now, next to ambition for power, the master-
passion in the heart of man. In those countries, a plurality of
wives was tolerated every where, whether amongst Jews or
Heathens. Christianity alone restricted man to one female
helpmate; while Mahomed, limiting the number also, ex-
tended it to four legal wives; but granted slaves and concu-
bines, to the will of the keeper. These supernumeraries are
counted proofs of the owner's consequence; hence, vanity may
sometimes fill a harem; but, in general, the motive is too con-
stantly, the old frailty of the climate. The young beauties from
all parts of Asia, who belong to the present Shah, in this charac-
ter, (I have been given to understand,) are not to be equalled
in number, and variety of charms, by the harems of any other
prince in the East. - -
Before the caliphs had extended their principles, with their
power, over every part of this country, the reverse of this system
of polygamy was prevalent in Atropatia, (now restored to its more
ancient name of Azerbijan ;) for there, the ladies estimated their
dignity according to the number of husbands they could boast.
REMARKS ON ASIATIC WOMEN. 341
Half-a-dozen at a time were deemed an inconsiderable conquest;
and the woman disgraced, past living in the best society, who
could not number more than three or four. There is something
to O preposterous in such an arrangement, to remark on it
'seriously; so I shall pass again to the infinitely less absurd,
though nearly as extravagant a practice, still in use amongst our
friends of the East. -
The personal charms of Asiatic women seldom exceed a term
of eight or ten years; for mental fascinations, they seldom
possess at all; after which period, the lately luxuriant and spor-
tive beauty, full of Smiles and inviting glances, becomes thin,
withered, rheum-eyed, and every way a hag. In short, the brief
summer of their bloom begins even as early as the age of eleven
or twelve, and ends soon after twenty; every year, following that
fatal period, adding wrinkle to wrinkle, till what had been the
“Light of the Harem,” is entirely clouded over. Although so
many romantic tales still dwell on their tongues, where love is
almost the sole theme, and which are listened too by all ranks of
persons with the most rapt attention; yet I doubt that any such
sentiment now remains amongst them. A violent transitory
passion, mere beauty may awaken; and, perhaps, the less it has
to do with mental attractions, the more overpowering is its ephe-
meral reign. But the charms of mind are necessary to expand
those emotions of an hour, into the delicate affections, which
form the dearest ties of life. Hence, no tender remembrances
follow the fading of these once lovely objects; one succeeds to
another, in the favor of her master, with as little previous notice,
and no more regret when discarded, than he feels in looking out
from his window, on the lately blooming, and now earth-strewn
roses; emblems, indeed, of the scene whose fountain they had
342 - - DIVORCES.
shaded, where so many fairer flowers laved their youthful charms;
to pass away, even like their bright reflections in the stream,
leaving no trace behind. -
From all this, it may easily be understood, why divorces are
uncommon amongst the higher orders, in this country; the
husband having it always in his power to gratify the fickleness
of his fancy, in the constant succession, which his wealth com-
mands, of beautiful slaves. The lower ranks, seldom being able
to support more than the privileged number of wives, are often
ready to change them on any plea, when time, or any other
circumstance, has a little sullied their freshness. According to
the law of the Koran, a man may repudiate his wife twice, and
resume his relinquished rights over her, with little difficulty;
but if he part with her a third time, and then wants to take her
back, he cannot satisfy this caprice, till she has in the meanwhile
been married, cohabited with her new husband, and been legally
divorced from him. But even then, she cannot rejoin her for-
mer spouse, until a term of three months have elapsed; which
probation, is to give time to ascertain whether she might not be
in a way to bring something besides herself to her ancient lord;
and, in that case, she remains divided from him, till she has
brought forth her offspring; which is immediately taken away,
and provided for at the expense of the father. A woman, on
the death of her husband, cannot re-marry, before the expiration
of four months and ten days. When matrimonial differences
arise, of sufficient magnitude to occasion a wish to separate, the
grievances are stated by both parties before the judge or kasi; and
if duly substantiated, and the complainants persist in demand-
ing a divorce, he furnishes both with the necessary certificates;
the woman holding whatever dowry she may have brought with
ESTABLISHMENT OF A HAREM. 343
her, if she be the injured party; but if the man be plaintiff,
and the cause, that she has “played him false,” he then retains
half her fortune. A certain number of oaths are required on
the side of the husband, to establish her guilt; and an equal
number on her part, in assertion of innocence, are sufficient to
free her from the punishment the law awards to adultery.
The full establishment of a harem, consists of wives, concu-
bines, and slaves; and the children born to a man by these
three degrees of alliance, are all equally legitimate; the station
a man holds in society, arising solely from the rank of his father,
without any reference whatever to the condition of his mother.
The sons and daughters share alike in the property of their
father; and when we find any one richer, by inheritance, than
his brothers, such wealth generally arises from the added dowry
of the mother; women having it in their power to bequeath
what they brought, to which ever of their children they please.
The mode of matrimonial courtships, in this country, does
not allow the eyes of the parties to direct their choice, till they
are mutually pledged to each other ; hence, that wives are not
always the most favoured of the three orders in the harem,
may be less a subject of surprise. At least with very young
people, this blind plan is usually adopted; older people may
negociate for themselves; and then it is generally a sordid busi-
mess on the side of the man; but the most creditable mode is
the first, which has been long sanctioned by custom. An elderly
female is employed by the relations of the youth, to visit the
object selected by his parents or friends, or guessed at by
himself; and this good dame's office is, to ascertain the damsel’s
personal endowments, and all other subjects suitable to their
views in the connexion. If the report be favourable, the friends
344 A PERSIAN WEDDING.
of the proposed bridegroom dispatch certain sponsors, to explain gº
his merits and pretensions, to the relations of the lady, and
make the offer of marriage in due form. If accepted, the heads
of the two families meet; when the necessary contracts are
drawn up ; the presents and ornaments, and other advantages,
proposed by the bridegroom's parents, discussed and arranged;
and when all is finally settled, the papers are sealed, and wit-
messed, before the kasi. .
In the morning of the day, in which the wedding is to be
solemnized, the lover sends a train of mules, laden with the
promised gifts for his bride, to the house of her parents; the
whole being attended by numerous servants, and preceded by
music and drums. Besides the presents for the lady, the pro-
cession carries all sorts of costly viands, on large moon-like silver
trays, ready prepared to be immediately spread before the in-
mates of the house. The whole of that day is spent in feasting
and jollity; when, towards evening, the damsel makes her
appearance, enveloped in a long veil of scarlet or crimson silk;
and being placed on a horse or a mule, splendidly caparisoned,
is conducted to the habitation of her affianced husband, by all
her relations, marching in regular order to the sound of the same
clamorous band, which had escorted the presents; and must
not cease its gratulatory uproar, one breathing time, from the
moment of its arrival. When alighted at the bridegroom's
door, the lady is led to her future apartments within the house;
whither she is accompanied by her female relations, and waiting-
maids. Her friends of the opposite sex, meanwhile, repair to
those of the bridegroom; where all the male relations on both
sides, being assembled, the feasting and rejoicing re-commences;
with the drums and other musical instruments still playing the
V REVERENCE TO PARENTS. 345
most conspicuous part. When the supper-feast is over, the
blushing bride is conducted to the nuptial-chamber; and there
the impatient lover first beholds his love . The marriage, without
further ceremony, is consummated; and, not long after, the
bridegroom returns to his party; and an ancient matron, in
waiting, leads the lady back to the room which contains her
female friends. A prescribed time is allowed for both sets of
relations to congratulate the young people on their union, after
which the happy pair retire to the bridal. chamber for the night;
leaving their separate companies to keep up the revelry, which
generally lasts for three days. It then all ceases; until the
hero of the scene, tires of his mate ; and, going through a
similar ceremony, pleases to add, from time to time, as many wives
to his first, as the law allows, or he can afford to maintain.
From the nature of the attachment, which in general subsists
between parents united by such capricious impulses, we might
be led to suppose that little paternal interest can exist in their
breasts for the offspring of such heartless bonds. But the case
is not so. In no country have I seen greater tenderness shown
to young children; nor more regard paid by fathers to the wel-
fare of sons approaching to manhood. And the filial reverence
which sons, of all ages, here pay to their parents, might be a
useful lesson to countries of much more civilised pretensions.
A spirit of slavery, and the principle of subordination, are dif-
ferent things, though they are often confounded; and this sin-
gular deference to parental authority, and to the experience of
age, leads me to form a better expectation of what the nation
may yet become, than if I found the reverse its characteristic.
Besides, education is far from being neglected by any class of the
people. I have already mentioned the style of tuition, in which
VOL. I. . ! Y Y
346 - PUBLIC SCHOOLS.
the young princes are reared. All persons of high rank, so far fol-
low the example, as to have their children instructed by moullahs,
and other preceptors, who attend their pupils at the houses of w
their parents. The lower orders, and often the considerable
Persians, who are under the condition of nobles, send their sons
to the public schools; which are planted in every town. They
are commonly held in the mesjids, and sometimes in the houses
of the teachers, who are mostly moullahs. The expense of each
child's education, annually, hardly amounts to a tomaun ; not
half a guinea a price much in favour of the advancement of
learning. The scholars sit round their master, on the matted
floor, all conning their lessons aloud, as they learn them ; and
not stopping their noise, even when the teacher is officially
hearing one of their brother-pupils read. This little seminary
presents a curious sight to a European ; for besides the rapid
motion of their lips, they keep their bodies in one continued
see-saw ; without which cabalistic movement, a Persian conceives
it would be impossible to learn any thing. When idleness, or
any other misdemeanour, requires chastisement, the young culprit
undergoes the same punishment as that which royalty at times
inflicts upon any offending nobleman; namely, the bastinado on
the soles of the feet. The children are taught reading and writ-
ing; and, as soon as they can commit to memory, they learn
passages from the favourite poets of the country; many of which
are fraught with the noblest sentiments, and the most amiable
feelings of human nature. At the same time, they are taught
prayers from the Koran, in Arabic; a language which they do
not in general understand; but the meaning of the prayer is
explained to them; and they are directed on what occasions
to repeat it. Youth of the higher classes, often subjoin the
EDUCATION IN PERSIA. 347
knowledge of Arabic, and also the Turkish language, to their
deeper studies. The usual list are—arithmetic, geometry, moral
philosophy, astronomy; and, not unfrequently, astrology; which
are all cultivated with considerable assiduity and success, by
most of the Persian gentlemen; who never fail to add the manly
exercises, to these mental acquirements. When I converse with
such men, and listen to the liberal views of the King, and the
Prince-Governors, his sons, on these subjects, I cannot under-
stand the ruin and neglect into which the colleges of nearly all
their great cities have fallen. The once noble establishments of
Ardebil, Casvin, Ispahan, Shiraz, &c. are mere shadows of what
they were. Aristotle, anciently translated into Arabic, is the
fountain whence all their philosophy springs ; but, at present,
the whole stream runs very shallow. However, that the science
of practical improvement in government, seems every day to be
gaining ground, may be gathered, by comparing the present
manners of the Persians, with what they were under one of the
most celebrated of their sovereigns, the great Shah Abbas. From
his time, to that of Kereem Khan, the royal palaces, and the
houses of the ministers, were filled with the most distracting
revels. Although wine is so strictly forbidden by the Koran,
the King himself sanctioned the violation of the law, by his most
flagrant example; and the scenes which ensued, may be more
easily imagined than described. But while the rich, and power-
ful, thus abandoned themselves without constraint, to the most
shameful practices; the lower orders, out of the sphere of tempt-
ation, went soberly on, according to the wary rule of their
prophet. A complete reverse, to the first of these accounts, is
seen in the court of the present King of Persia; Futteh Ali Shah,
and his sons, being strict observers of the ordinances of their
Y Y 2
348 3. PERSIAN MANNERS: — WINE.
religion; and, in consequence, the great men of the country
following the example, have recovered their dignity, and the
respect of the people.
It is a rarity, in these times, to see a Persian of any class in-
toxicated with drink. Yet, I do not mean to pay them the
compliment of saying that this abstinence arises wholly from
regard to religious precept. Being naturally of a lively and
ardent temperament, they have a constitutional indifference to
all inflammatory cordials; and indeed, so far from in general
requiring stimulants of any kind, they seem fond of checking
the impulse of their blood, by the use of the kalioun and opium;
either of which, in different degrees, produces a sort of dreamy
repose of the senses. Yet, I am also aware, that there are ex-
ceptions to these observations, both amongst the high and the
low ; and with the old, more than the young; for, when age lays
its freezing hand upon the man, even our glowing Persian
shrinks at the touch; and we find some few, secretly applying
to the genial flow of the grape, for temporary restoration.
Whether it be taken thus as a resource, or drank with less inno-
cent motives, the act is always clandestine ; while the trans-
gressórs of the law, vary to themselves, when in their power,
the degree of guilt incurred, by drinking wine of Christian fa-
bric; rather than that which is doubly drenched in sin, by
having been the manufacture of a Mussulman. So great is the
horror of a Mahomedan vintage, that whenever jars of the wine of
Shiraz are discovered, the chief officers of the town are ordered
to see them broken to pieces. But all this strictness, relates to
the Persians alone; foreigners are neither laid under restriction,
nor suffer obloquy, for taking the indulgences which their own
customs allow them; and, what is yet more liberal, Abbas Mir-
PERSIAN MANNERS:– WINE-HOUSES. 349
za, who has many Russians in his service, not only tolerates
every man in the privileges of his religion, but has licensed a
wine-shop in that city for the use of the battalion. This accom-
modation to one party, however, is likely to produce a gradual
change in the sober habits of his people. The Russian soldiers
being followed by their Persian comrades to the wine-house, the
latter, lured by example, swallow similar potations, till with
little more than what merely refreshes the cold sons of the North,
their blood takes fire, and quarrels frequently ensue, to the most
tragical conclusions. But when Abbas Mirza ever hears of such
an abuse of his indulgence, and that Mussulmans have been
caught drinking within its walls, he never fails to order the
delinquent a severe flogging; a punishment that may check,
but will hardly cure the evil, since its temptation now lies level
to every door. That they fall into it at all, seems to contradict
a former remark, on the natural indifference of these Asiatics to
such inebriation. But when we consider, how prone man is to
imitation, and how use renders that palatable, which at first is
quite the reverse; and also, from what small beginnings, infinite
effects may be produced ; we need not wonder, should this very
wine-house prove, hereafter, the source of a tacit oblivion, in
Persia, of the one truly wise law of the Koran.
We have just seen, that not merely the use, but the excess of
wine has once been tolerated in this country. And under the
same race who sanctioned the one vice, we find another autho-
rised in the most open way, by licensing brothels. The existence
of such infamous places, is now hardly known in the country;
but the Sefi princes drew a great increase of revenue from their
numbers and noteriety. At Ispahan alone, in those days of un-
blushing licentiousness, no less than thirty thousand females,
350 PERSIAN MANNERS IN THE TIME OF SHAH ABBAS.
paid an annual sum to government for permission, thus to ruin
the morals and the constitutions of His Majesty's subjects. The
governors of the provinces granted the same mischievous
privileges, for the same mercenary considerations; and thus
there was hardly a great town in Persia that had not one of these
pest-houses within its walls. That such places should have any
visitants at all, amongst a people, who, by the license of their
religion, may possess every variety of female beauty at home,
seems hardly to be credited. But it shows, that by an admirable
law of nature, indulged vice becomes its own punishment; and
that though a wretched sense of joyless Satiety, after a short time
becomes the constant attendant of lawless appetite, yet the
craving increases by every disappointed gratification; and the
door of profligacy having been thrown wide open in the kingdom,
there was no stop in any quarter. The miserable beings who
were thus licensed to be the bane of the country, bore a very
appropriate title, which might well have been shared by those
who signed its patent; namely, cahbeha, or the worthless : and a
European traveller of about a hundred and fifty years ago, thus
describes the publicity of their profession. He is writing of
Casvin. “Soon after the merchants’ shops are shut at night,
another set are opened to a very different object; the trade being
carried on by a class of women, who hold a license from govern-
ment to carry on the most degrading traffic of their persons to
any casual passenger. They are posted in certain known places
of the city, sitting in rows, and veiled. Behind them stands the
old shepherdess of this devoted flock, who is known by the name
of the delalal, (they by that of cahbeha;) she holds an extin-
guished candle in her hand; but whenever a customer presents
himself, she immediately re-lights it, and precedes him down the
PERSIAN MANNERS UNDER FUTTEH ALI SHAH. 351
line of her nymphs, raising, in rotation, the veil of each, till he
makes his choice; when the old hag dispatches the pair together,
attended by a trusty domestic, to a lodging in her house, which
usually stands close by the way side.” 4 •.
Having thus given a sketch of the passed manners of Persia,
to enable my reader to understand something of the improve-
*ment which has taken place during the last half-century, I
gladly follow the good example of the present princes, and
dismiss this part of the subject from my pen.
Though the reigning monarch has never been celebrated for
that activity of character, which demonstrates itself in ambitious
projects, or attachment to the pleasures of the chase, yet he
manifests on every occasion, that promptitude in the dispatch
of public business, and watchfulness in maintaining the laws he
has enacted for the security of the persons and properties of his
people, which bear every testimony to the soundness of his
judgment on the duties of a king; at least as far as the light on
that subject, has developed itself here; while his encouragement
of Persian literature, and his taste for poetry and the arts, show
him to be a scholar, and a man of genius. And, that his views
are liberally directed towards the improvement of his people in
every useful acquirement, is made still more evident, by the
many Persians he has sent into Europe, to study the arts and
sciences most wanted in their own country. These men gene-
rally conduct themselves well when abroad, and the quickness
of their intellects soon making them masters of their objects,
they return to their home in the prime of their lives, doubly
endowed for their country; bringing back not merely the learn-
ing and practice for which they were sent out, but certain seeds
of moral, mental, and national improvements; which, becoming
352 . LOVE OF RICHES.
gradually sown in the minds of a people, nothing on earth can
repress from growing to its natural harvest.
The long tranquillity which has reigned in the interior of the
empire, ever since the death of the last sovereign, Aga Mahomed
Khan ; and the comparative flourishing state of the whole coun-
try; with the increase of its population, and the augmentation
of the revenue; all prove, what I have just asserted of the pre-
Sent monarch : and, so far from his having imbibed the tyrannous
style of ruling, so common with many of his predecessors, the
arm of blood is never raised by his orders, but over the heads of
the robber and the murderer. &
#. Yet, perhaps, his passion for riches is not less strong, though
not indulged by violence, than that which impelled those short-
sighted tyrants to become masters of a wealthy subject's treasures,
at the expense of his life. Gold has long been the sceptre and
the sword of all nations; therefore, we cannot be surprised to
find its possession one of the leading objects of a prudent prince,
who, though in the midst of Asia, sees himself surrounded by
European wealth ; and European policy, to transmute that
wealth to whatever metal it pleases.
But the King is not the only man in the country, who would
be glad of Aladdin's lamp ; the whole of the higher orders turn
their views to the same talisman. Some, amassing their gold
with as clean hands as the most honourable man in Europe;
while others, would descend to any meanness, rather than allow a
single tomaun to escape the clutch of their fingers. Of course,
the lower classes are great sufferers by this; a general system of
exaction in those above them, depressing their industry, by
extorting its fruits. Till the princes of the land, know the
extent of these proceedings, and the tendency of such oppres-
CHARACTER OF FUTTEH ALI SHAH. 353
sions to dam up the sources, of their own revenues, this once
great kingdom must remain comparatively poor and powerless.
But should the true secret of government be ever fully under-
stood here, — that it is founded on the people being protected by
just laws, and as just rulers, from the power of oppressing each
other; then may Persia boast an empire, as little likely to be at
the beck of others, as any of the states which deem its glories -
OVer. .
During this, my first visit to Teheran, I was honoured with
many opportunities of judging for myself, with regard to the
personal character of Futteh Ali Shah ; and the result always
was, that I came away with renewed impressions of the amiable
in the man; one of the most essential qualities in the composi-
tion of a sovereign, whose will is, virtually, the law. His as noble-
minded son, Abbas Mirza, had prepared my way to these con-
ferences with his royal parent; and one of the returns, which
my sense of the high favour impelled me to make, was to com-
ply with His Royal Highness's earnest desire, that my pencil
should at least attempt to give him a truer image of his father,
than any we had commented on together, in the various pictures
he had shewn to me. The wish had been imparted to the Shah;
and His Majesty, with that bienseance which as eminently be-
longs to the Persian court as ever it did to that of Louis XIV.,
paying me a compliment, that might have elevated my pencil
and the hand that held it, to a place amongst the stars, did me
the honour to appoint a day when I was to transfer his image
to paper. •' .
... It happened to be on the morning of a review, that was to
take place in the court of the citadel; and I went betimes to be a
spectator of the evolutions. Abul Hassan Khan, my friend the
VOL. I. Z Z
354 REVIEW OF PERSIAN TROOPS.
ex-ambassador to England and to Russia, was to bring me to the
presence; the vizier, whose duty it would have been, being at
that time indisposed. In our way to the grand saloon of the
palace, we passed through the great maidan, where the artillery
was stationed. It was crowded with military, infantry, and
cavalry; the latter being in readiness to march, individually,
man and horse, before His Majesty. Their arming was curious,
hardly two alike ; some, bearing muskets; some, long spears;
others, shields, sabres, and pistols; their costumes varying with
their weapons; some, in shirts of mail, with the high black cap
of the country; others, in iron Scull-caps, with the linen dresses
in ordinary use. These, certainly, looked more like half-dressed
actors, than soldiers regularly banded for the lists of a great
sovereign. But there were others, in warlike garb from top to
toe, being completely arrayed in chain-armour, with lofty hel-
mets, gallantly plumed, and wrapped round the frontlet with
shawls. •
A small elevated building, overlooking the south side of the
maidan, contained the open chamber, whence the Shah was to
review the assembled troops. A clangor of trumpets announced
his entrance, when the cavaliers immediately set forth to gallop
singly across the square, flourishing their arms, shaking their
spears, and going through all the accustomed exercise of firing,
charging, &c., at full speed. These desperate chargings were
performed through an avenue of gazing grandees, and as many
of the common populace as chose to be spectators of the sight.
His Majesty was seated at a large open window; and looking
with marks of approbation on the dexterity of his troops. His
dress was the same style in which I had ordinarily seen him,
since his state-appearance at the feast of the Nowroose; and,
CHANGE OF MANNERS IN PERSIA. 355
choosing such simplicity for his transmission in a picture, was no
indifferent specimen of his good taste. His head was covered
with the cap of his country; a black lamb-skin, worn alike by
prince and peasant. His robe was of fine gold brocade, having
a deep cape of dark sable falling on his shoulders. His under-
garments were composed of red Kashmere shawls of the richest
work. Another shawl, of deeper hues, but of greater value,
bound his waist; in which was stuck a curved dagger, blazing
with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, and hung with a tassel of
the largest pearls, with which he occasionally played while he
discoursed. Behind him was placed one of his magnificent
cushions, totally covered with orient net-work, and tasselled also
at its corners with bunches of the same costly ornaments. Two
Persian noblemen stood a few paces from him ; one bearing the
royal mace, or sceptre; the other, the shield and sword; each
insignia of empire being thickly studded with every kind of pre-
cious stone. The boss of the shield was one entire ruby ;
which, for size, colour, and perfection, probably, is not to be
matched in the world. -
We had taken our station in the saloon, during the review,
standing at some little distance from the King; and, when it was
over, after a few minutes' general conversation with us all, His
Majesty entered on that which was the object of the morning,
and desired me to draw as near to him as I would deem necessary,
and to be seated. This command was considered the highest
personal honour he could confer on any man. Formerly, stran-
gers were not only permitted to sit in the presence of the Shah,
but to eat and drink with him. These customs are now so
totally done away, that none but embassadors, who are esteemed
Z Z 2
356 PoRTRAITURE OF THE SHAH.
the representatives of sovereign princes, are allowed the royal
distinction of being seated in the presence of the Great King.
As I traced His Majesty's features, line by line, I ascertained
every detail of his physiognomy, and felt new interest in the
varieties of its expression. His complexion, as I observed be-
fore, is exceedingly pale ; but when he speaks on subjects that
excite him, a vivid colour rushes to his cheek; but only for a
moment, it passes so transiently away. His nose is very aqui-
line. His eye-brows, full, black, and finely arched; with lashes
of the same appearance, shading eyes of the most perfect form,
dark and beaming; but at times, full of a fire that kindles his
whole countenance; though, in general, its expression is that of
languor. His beard, black as jet, ample and long, and tapering
to a point considerably below the hilt of his dagger. The almost
sublime dignity, which this form of beard, adds to the native
majesty of his features, is not to be conceived; and the Smile
which often shone through it, ineffably sweet and noble, rather
increased than diminished the effect. The British Chargé d'Af.
faires, with Abul Hassan Khan, were my companions to the
presence; and, the Shah conversing with them during my oc-
cupation, the changes of the subjects gave his fine physiognomy
every play. Yet the enervating style of his life, was evident,
both in the languid movement of his eye, when he sat quiescent;
and from the usual hollow tone, of his otherwise sonorous voice;
but which, like the occasional flashes from his eyes, became
powerful when under the influence of animating discourse.
When my little sketch was made, I put it into the hands
of Abul Hassan Khan, who presented it on his knees to the
Shah. His Majesty declared himself highly pleased; and, if
the rhetoric of his country were in the compliments he paid me,
I was not the less gratified, seeing them verified by the expres–
sion of his countenance. Before we withdrew, I promised to
make a finished drawing from the sketch, for His Majesty's self;
and, soon after, our little party left the palace. . .
The warm season was now fast approaching, when Teheran
would be no longer habitable: and, even at the time of my sojourn
there, though April had not yet expired, the weather was so hot,
that few liked to expose themselves to the sun, beyond the early
morning hours. Many of these hours I dedicated to viewing all
that was either picturesque, or interesting, in the environs of the
city; every surrounding object, deriving much of the former
property, from being in the view of the majestic mountain
Demawund. It bears N. 65° E. of Teheran, about forty miles
distant ; and is seen, raising its lofty and pale summit to the
north-east of the town ; forming a magnificent pyramid, that
shoots up from the high range of Elborz ; which bounds the
wide plain in that direction, and curving southward, becomes
cleft into several long, narrow, and deeply-scarred valleys; along
the entrances to which, and over their broad broken rocks, are
spread the ruins of the famous city of Rhey — spelt sometimes
Rhé, or Rey.
The names of Rhages, Europa, Arsacia, and Rhey, have all,
at different periods, designated this ancient metropolis; each
name giving just grounds for anticipating the richest succession
of antiquities, if curiosity might be permitted to explore the
huge mounds which cover its buried remains. The Persians
ascribe its origin to Houshong, the grandson of Kaiomnrs;
therefore, only third in descent from the first monarch of that
dynasty, who, by every calculation, must have been several
centuries before the age of Cyrus. Our scriptural accounts of
Rhey or Rhages, during the captivity of the Jews in this part of
358 RUINS OF RHEY.
the Persian (or rather, at that time, of the Babylonian) empire,
fully proves that Rhey was a very considerable city, at least two
hundred years before their deliverance, by that greatest of all the
monarchs of the East. Therefore, in calculating the antiquity
of its foundation, even the exaggerating traditions of the Persian
poets may not have far exceeded the truth. Rhey has, at
different times, been the residence of the sovereigns of the
empire; or, as the capital of a province, of its own Prince-
governors. It has been distinguished with palaces; it has been
sanctified by fire-temples, or mosques; it has been elevated by
one conqueror, to the honours of a capital; it has been sacked by
the next, as only worthy of his vengeance. Hence, the city
which an angel and a prophet blessed with their presence, is
now become a scene of such desolation, that the footsteps of
man are hardly discernible, except where they have left traces
of war, and mark his grave.
. However, as I am not aware of even the few noble relics
which yet remain, having been particularly described by any
European traveller, I shall attempt a sketch of what I saw.
The ruins lie about five miles south-east of Teheran, extending
from the foot of the curving mountains, and running in that
direction across the plain in an oblique line south-west. The
surface of the ground, all over this tract, is marked by hollows,
mounds, mouldering towers, tombs, and wells. The fabric of
all, being chiefly of that burnt, and sun-dried material, which
seems to bid defiance to the last oblivious touch of time. A
very strong citadel, appears to have occupied a high and rocky
promontory that juts out considerably beyond the other huge
buttresses of nature, which here start from the different clefts in
the mountains. Along the perpendicular sides of this height,
RUINS OF RHEY. 359
we easily discovered the foundations of its embattled works.
And, directly from its base, a line of massy fortification appeared,
reaching southward, and apparently defending the eastern face
of the city, till it terminated in an immense square bulwark,
flanked with towers, and making a fortress in itself. Thence,
the wall curved round in an irregular oblique sweep towards the
north-west, till it met another similar enormous square tower,
flanked in like manner with six round ones. This tower,
terminated not only that line of wall, but another, which had
also started from the base of the promontory, and formed the
northern front of the city; the whole fortified space between the
three walls, taking the shape of a triangle. Its vertex touching
the citadel-promontory, its base stretching south-west, from the
one large square tower to the other. These walls are still many
feet in height, of prodigious thickness; and have been additionally -
strengthened by proportionably sized towers, connecting the
wall, and placed at point-blank arrow distance from each other.
The two enormous fortress-like towers before mentioned, which
terminate the south-eastern, and the north-western points of the
triangle, are united with the walls; but in going along the outer
side of the longest line, which stretches from the one square
tower to the other, we find a third tower about the middle of
the wall, but standing out at some distance from it. It is
nearly of the same dimensions with the two others, and Sup-
ported in the same way, with round flanking towers. Probably
a ditch and a bridge lay between this great bulwark, and the
principal gate of the town; this entrance lying in almost a
direct line with the citadel. The remains of other fortifications
are near it, as if still more to protect this ingress, which opens
to the south-western side of the plain. I have no doubt that
360 RUINS OF RHEY.
these three square towers commanded the three great entrances
to the city. The northern, holding the communication with
Azerbijan and Mazanderan; the southern, that towards Khorasan;
and the south-western, pointing to Hamadan, the ancient
Ecbatana: therefore, by this last gate, it is probable that Tobit's
celestial messenger entered, on his embassy to Gabel. At the
foot of the great promontory which crowns the apex of the for-
tifications, and projecting within their area, is another range of
equally strong walls, embracing a considerable space, and forming
a lower citadel; within which, in all likelihood, were the royal
palace, and other buildings of state. Another wall, exterior to
the city-rampart, connects the height on which the first great
citadel stands, with another rocky projection of the mountain,
where every tenable spot has been strongly guarded by outworks;
linking themselves, across the gorge of a deep ravine, to the
side of a third citadel or fortress, finely built of stone, and on the
summit of an immense rock, which commands the open country
to the south. -
In traversing the interior of the city walls, just without those
of the second or lower citadel, we observed a very lofty tower
of brick, of admirable masonry, but of a singular shape; being
round, and divided into twenty-four parts; each part forming
the two sides of a triangle four feet and six inches in depth, the
whole surface presenting a continued zig-zag. The top is
encircled with a Cuphick inscription, nicely executed in the brick;
and the entrance, which points to the south-east, exhibits, a
high Saracenic arch, with a square portal, richly, and curiously
ornamented. I should calculate the height of the whole struc-
ture, to be about sixty feet within; it is now quite open at
the top. About a few hundred yards from the south-eastern
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RUINS OF RHEY. 361
wall of the city exteriorly, and at the mouth of the long and
narrow glen, which I mentioned before as dividing the rock of
the third citadel from the mountain, stands a round tower,
similar in shape to this last described, but built entirely of stone,
like the great fortress just above it. This tower is not so high
as the one in the city, but equally open to the sky, and in
diameter about thirteen yards. It has two hollow ways, be-
ginning about thirty feet from the ground, and scooped in the
wall itself, leading up to what must have been its battlements.
Around its top, too, we find a Cuphic inscription, executed in
brick. On the adjacent rock, amongst the remains of the stone
citadel, stands a low circular building, decorated with various
coloured tiles, evidently either a tomb, or some small Mahomedan
religious edifice. The mouldering relics of two or three mosques,
are discoverable amongst the hillocks of heterogeneous ruins,
which cover the earth within the city walls. If, indeed, the area
which those triangular sides embrace, may be deemed of suf-
ficient extent to admit so high a title; its dimensions, at the
broadest part, not being more than three British miles: a limit
far too confined, to measure with the accounts given us by old
writers, of the ancient extent of this capital, who compared
it to nothing less than that of Babylon or of Nineveh. The
Persians themselves say, that its magnificence and trade were
so great, that fifteen thousand caravansaries were too few for the
reception of the merchants, and travellers, who resorted to its
bazars; and came from afar, to admire the wonders of the city.
Hence, though we may not give implicit belief to the whole of
this abundant enumeration, by the Persian writers, yet, from the
corresponding evidence of graver pens, it does not appear
credible, that the remains of the ramparts which we see now,
WOL. I. 3 A
362 RUINS OF RHEY.
were the walls which bounded the entire town. It rather seems
likely, that the whole space within the fortified triangle, formed
the habitable part of an extensive citadel; the commanding
structure on the promontory, having been, what in more modern
description, we would call the keep, or last resource of the
garrison; and being to it, what the entire fortress itself was to
the city at large, the heart of the place. Besides, we are told,
that when Ashk, the founder of the Arsacesian dynasty, slew
the viceroy of the Seleucesian kings, and established his resi-
dence at Rhey, that the princes of the provinces repaired thither
to him, to form a confederacy for the purpose of recovering
Persia entirely from the Grecian yoke. May it not then be
probable that these chiefs, with each his warlike followers, and
Ashk their leader at their head, might deem it prudent during
their different consultations there, to abide in a stronghold
within the city, distinctly appropriated to themselves. In that
case, the trigonal area I have described, (which would form an
immense fortress, but a very inconsiderable capital city,) might, of
old remains, be duly fortified, to afford a secure residence, worthy
the dignity of the assembled princes to whom history has
given the great name of the Moolook-u-Tuaif, or the Com-
monwealth of Tribes. But, whatever were its purpose, it cer-
tainly has no more claim to the title of comprising the whole
of the capital, bearing the name of Rhey, than the scanty
spot, which is called the city of Paris, or that, which has a
similar appellation at London, would have, to the character of
containing all the magnificent buildings, or numerous popu-
lation, generally attributed to Paris or to London. Hence,
if the walls I saw, were only this common nucleus of a great
metropolis, then might the town itself have stretched nearly
CURIOUS GROUP AT RHEY. 363
to the confines of Teheran; and the information might not be
SO perfectly incorrect, as I supposed when viewing the place
only from a distance, which states that the new capital was
built out of the ruins of the old. -
In ascending the promontory on which the chief citadel, or
castle, must have stood, Captain Willock led me to a spot of
particular interest; the side of the rock covered with a colossal
bas-relief. The surface had been smoothed to about sixteen feet
in height, and twelve in breadth. The execution of the sculp-
ture is rude; and perhaps appears more so, from its having been
left uncompleted. It represents a horseman in full charge,
couching his spear. Long drapery flows from his thigh ; and on
his head, which is very unfinished, there is something like a tiara
surmounted with a balloon-shaped mass; the same that is seen on
the medals and coins of the Sassanian sovereigns. On his left
shoulder another globular object rests; while a similar one lies
on the neck of the horse, a little behind his ears. The latter
members of the animal, are but slightly traced in the stone;
as are also the fore-legs, which are hewn out only to the knees; .
the hinder legs being but chiselled to the hocks.
There is also the head of another horse, by its position evidently
intended to have borne the antagonist of the royal hero; but no
further outline is seen. What has been traced of this group, on
the plane of sixteen feet just described, occupies an elevation
of a little more than half that height. A sketch, I should sup-
pose, to have been begun by order of some of the Sassanian
monarchs; and by none, more probably, than the hero who
founded that dynasty, on the subversion of the race of the Ar-
sacides; and who might wish thus to engrave a trophy of his
great achievement, on the very rock which had upheld the
- - 3 A 2
364 . RUINS OF RHEY.
first throne of the beginner of the sovereigns he had for ever
deposed. . - * -
When we turned from these ruins, so full of interest from
memory; and so full of treasures, united with that interest, in
themselves, might those mounds and hollows be laid open to
investigation ; I could not but more deeply lament the suspicion
which prevails over all Mahometan countries, that no man can
put a spade into any ground, (that is not for building, or agri-
culture, or digging a grave,) without the hope of finding some
golden or jewelled deposit within. They can seldom be made
to believe it possible that we could put ourselves to the trouble
of exploring these, or any similar ruins, merely with the view
of finding a lettered fragment, or a few old coins, bearing with
them the connecting memoranda of the place's history; and
which would be equally valuable to us on common stone, as on
marble; on copper, as on gold. The last blow which sealed the
fate of this city, was received from the insatiable avarice and
thirst of blood, which marked the dominion of the immediate
successors of Zingis Khan; and, before the lapse of two centuries
after their direful sacking of its walls, it was so lost, as to be no
more named as a residence of man.
To set forth on any distant journey, in this country, requires
no small preparations; the traveller being obliged, almost li-
terally, to take “house and home” along with him. To be ready
against all exigencies, that might happen on a road without
other inns than, in general, the bare walls of a caravansary.
And, often, not even those; when he must either depend on the
tent he may have provided on the backs of his mules, or be con-
tent to bivouac at their side. In starting from Tabreez with
the Prince-Governor, all journey-preparations for Teheran were
PROGRESS TO THE SOUTH OF THE EMPIRE. 365
unnecessary on my part; but now I left my munificent royal host
behind me; and must carry, with myself, those means of com-
fort, which, when present, he had so abundantly provided me.
Hence it occupied me some time, to collect and assort my tra-
velling train and its appendages, my servants, horses, mules, &c.
The Shah did me the honour to appoint my mehmandar; and
furnished him with a paper called a rackam, or firman, for my
use; empowering the possessor to be provided with a certain
quantity of provisions, for himself and suite, and forage for his
cattle, throughout the whole country subject to His Majesty's
dominion. This imperial document is stamped with the royal
seal, besides the similar impression of nine or ten of the princi-
pal ministers of state. Indeed, all these great signatures are
as indispensable to the authority of the smallest written order,
for the most trifling public contribution, as to the power of the
most comprehensive decree. This, at first, may appear a very
troublesome formality; but the protection it affords, in these
countries, to the persons and properties of the lower classes,
who might, otherwise, be ground to absolute poverty by endless
wanton exactions, renders it a precautionary measure worthy
the most scrupulous respect.
Having completed all preliminaries to the prosecution of my
tour to the south of the empire; and taken leave of the court,
and of my European and Asiatic friends at Teheran; I set forth
on Wednesday, the 13th of May, 1818. My party consisted of
nine persons, including their leader : namely, myself; the
King's mehmandar; Sedak Beg, the secretary and interpreter,
Abbas Mirza had appointed to attend me during my sojourn in
Persia; my two Russian servants; a Georgian, I had hired at
|Tiflis ; a couple of Persian grooms; and one muleteer. These
366 THE PYLAE CASPIAE.
three latter personages were to take charge of my horses and
mules. Every man was well mounted, on the noble steeds of
the country; myself only excepted, who usually rode the “good
horse” I had bought of the Tcherkasses, just before I crossed
the Caucasus. Our baggage was on mules; no wheeled carriage,
since the scythed chariots of old, having any thing to do in this
equestrian land. Our accoutrements too, were in perfect cha-
racter with this cavalier-appearance; every man being armed
with carbines, pistols, swords and daggers; which we disposed
with no small ostentation, having been made to understand, that
the farther we should journey from the immediate personal in-
fluence of the Shah, the less and less would we find the execu-
tion of his laws against robbers able to reach their objects;
and, therefore, the greater the show of defence, the more se-
curely were we likely to travel. º
I quitted Teheran soon after breakfast, about 9 o'clock, under
the auspicious omen of a beautifully brilliant morning, with a
gentle breeze from over the white brow of Demawand, which
delightfully cooled the air. In the range of mountains which
overlook the city, and on whose storied heights I now turned
my back, is situated the celebrated Pylae Caspiae. It lies in a
direction north-east from the town, and differs in almost every
point, from the description which Pliny gives of it, in lib.vi. c. 17.
The pass is extremely narrow, and, evidently, would never have
been a pass at all, had not the labour of man opened a way for
nearly two hundred yards, by hewing through the solid rock.
Its appearance is very tremendous. In travelling towards it
from Teheran, the distances are these : by a mountain-road
immediately behind the city to the north-east, you ride eleven
farsangs to the village of Demawand; then curving to the south-
PERSIAN MILITARY. 367
west, through the villages of Bomene and Jezerood; and taking
another sinuous turn, eleven farsangs to the eastward, brings you
to Ferooz Koh village; towards which the Caspian straits directly
point, at scarcely a farsang's distance. Arrian (l. 3. c. 30.) tells
us, that when Alexander pursued Darius from Rhey, he reached
the Caspian straits in one day's march, and, passing through
them, entered Parthia on the following day. This agrees
exactly with the distance that lies between the pass, now called
Kawar, and the ruins of that ancient capital.
In commencing our journey from Teheran, we took a direction
due south, across the level country, leaving the solitary and arid
heights of Rhey about five or six miles to the left; but with
mountains before us, along the horizon, whose much more
rugged defiles we hoped to reach by mid-day. While we kept
the plain, our eyes were regaled on every side by the freshness
of the verdure, brightened and grown to luxuriance under the
recent spring rains. Hundreds of fine horses belonging to the
Shah, were grazing in picturesque groups, at various distances;
or scouring over the ground, neighing, tossing their manes, and
rejoicing in their annual liberty. For it is an established
practice in Persia, to give their horses grass, during a month or
six weeks in the vernal season; and when opportunities for
turning them out to pasture cannot be obtained, then the
disappointed animal is obliged to eat his green food in the stable.
As the day advanced, the sun's power increased to a most
scorching heat; but still we persevered across the unshaded
plain, although its verdant and open scene of animated freedom
gradually changed to dust, and to droves of ill-assorted military ;
promiscuously armed with daggers, swords, musquets, short
spears, and shields; and mounted on asses, laden already with
368 PASS OF KINIAGIRID,
every necessary moveable that belonged to their riders. They
passed in desultory succession, to the number of one thousand
men ; and, my Persians informed me, were on their march to
join the royal army, then collecting, which usually accompanied
the Shah in his summer encampments, whether they be in
Khorasan, or towards the more temperate breezes of Sultania.
The throng of the road, and the burning beams from the
heavens, made the remainder of the day's journey almost in-
supportable. But the object of my setting forth would not
have been answered, had I always given way to the custom of the
natives at this season, which is travelling by night only. They
would have had me start a little before sun-set, with a moon, or
without it; and journeying forward through this indeed cloud-
less clime, and starry skies, not have sought a resting-place till
sun-rise next morning. Luminous as these nights are, and
however beautiful might be the occasional effects which their
long shadows, and silver lights, cast upon the varying lines of
the mountains, their heights and depths; yet those indistinct
visions, if I may so term it, of the country, would not have been
giving me the true picture; which I, therefore, sought of its fair
unveiled face, in the open sight of day.
Towards eleven o'clock in the forenoon, we gained the foot of
the mountains seen from Teheran to the south-west, and which
form the south-eastern ridge of the Kofflin Kou ; branching a
little farther, than where we halted, towards the east, where it
loses itself in the sandy hillocks of the great salt desert. Having
crossed a narrow stream, we began to scale the pass called that
of Kiniagirid, which is both rugged and winding; sometimes
with its over-arching rocks, affording us shelter from the almost
vertical sun, but oftener, by their perpendicular sides, collecting
CARAVANSARY OF KINIAGIRID. 369
his heat to all the fervour of an opening oven. So much for
the way up, but the descent on its southern brow, delivered us
at once to the furnace of the day, by leading us forth on an
immense plain, without a leaf of shade. The sky had not a
cloud, and I felt, rather than thought of the bold metaphor of a
brazen heavens. This was a fire I had not been accustomed to
stand, and, yielding to necessity, was even gladder than my
companions, to find our quarters so early in the day as three
o'clock. *
We halted at a commodious caravansary, the erection of the
present king; and situated so close to the village of Kiniagirid,
as only to be separated from it by a pretty little brook. It is
distant from Teheran about five farsangs. Spacious as the
building was, we found it overflowing with the troops travelling
thither; yet a room was provided me, in honour of the royal
firman ; though it had not the same power to spread my board,
or fill the mangers of my cattle. Such an especial grant, not
annulling the privilege which the keeper of the caravansary had
purchased, by a composition with the agents of His Majesty,
to pay to the crown two hundred tomauns annually, for an
absolute exemption from these sort of hospitable imposts; and
an exclusive right, in his little neighbourhood, of selling pro-
visions, provender, &c. &c., to all persons lodging within the
walls of his jurisdiction. Thus, as our sovereigns of two or three
centuries ago, used to eat up their toll on their subjects by a
yearly progress, with a train to boot, over all the great estates in
the kingdom ; so the Persians, sometimes, do the same by proxy;
making the stranger, who visits their dominions, the consumer of
the tribute, which the monarch himself neither puts into his
VOIL. I. 3 B
370 APPROACH TO THE DESERT.
own stomach, nor thinks fit to consign to the more capacious
swallow of his courtiers.
Next morning, May 14th, we started soon after sun-rise; that
we might not pass as many hours as we had done the preceding
day, under his most roasting beams, before we should reach the
regular halting-place. The air now was comparatively cool,
and for a space of about two farsangs, the country appeared
green and cheerful, enjoying a pretty fair cultivation from the
happy influence of numberless brilliant little rivulets, which
intersected this upland plain like fairy rills. But after two
hours' ride over the fresh sward, we suddenly lost sight of all
this verdure, by only making a transition from heighth to depth,
which carried us down upon a dun and drowthy vale,
without a blade of grass; that barren glen conducted us to
another; and so on, descending through a succession of similar
parched wastes, bedded with sand, and following each other like
a chain of dryed-up lakes. Not a plant was to be seen any-
where, notwithstanding the spring-rains had been unusually
heavy. However, they had done us the service of giving a
temporary consolidation to the sand; otherwise, the wind being
very brisk when we crossed these valleys, the light particles, if
blown in our faces, would have annoyed us grievously. The same
character of country lay before us, till we came to a consider-
able stream, flowing to the north-west, and so copiously that with
difficulty we forded it; tantalized all the while with finding so
desirable a mass of waters, salt as brine. From thence we
began an ascent over a range of stony hills, rising in rough
united heaps from the uneven surface of the arid vale we had
just traversed, and stretching several miles towards the east and
west; appearing more like some gigantic dyke in the way, than
DESERT OF KAVEEN. 3.71
an impediment, worthy to be classed with the unmeasured
mountain ranges we had lately passed. Having atchieved this
rocky wall, we came at once on a vast sandy desert, interminable
as the horizon to the east and south-west. It was the same that
Chardin travelled in his way to Sava. Its large tracts of salt
appeared in the distance, spotting the burning plain, like so
many shining lakes. The view was full of an awful grandeur, to
one who had never seen an absolute Eastern desert before; such
as he had read of in holy writ, in the passes between Egypt
and Palestine; such as Greek story, or the subsequent histories
of the crusades, had repeated to him, with all the terrible
additions of consuming blasts, overwhelming sands, and thousands
of human beings perishing beneath the fiery deluge.
At one o'clock in mid-day, we reached the caravansary of
Houze Soultan, which opened to us the prospect of another
sweep of sterile heights to the south-west, lying along the desert
in the line of our route for the morrow. This halting-place is
another work of the present Shah's ; and its keeper enjoyed the
same privilege as our last monopolizing host. Soon after we
arrived, part of the contents of a covered tank of rain-water,
which was sunk a few yards in front of the building, were
brought forth for our use: the water was dirty and ill-tasted;
but it proved a very welcome refreshment to both men and
animals, thirsty with long travel, and parched between the
burning soil and atmosphere. Here, again, we encountered
more of the native military; but they put us to no inconvenience,
neither encroaching on our quarters, nor abridging our provisions
or provender, nor committing the smallest theft from man or
beast; a tolerably good specimen of their discipline. Our journey
this day might be about six farsangs, or twenty-four miles.
3 B 2
372 w TRACTS OF SALT.
May 15th. To-day, as usual, we were on horseback by five
o'clock. Our road pointed direct south, where numerous and
wide spaces covered with salt, spread over the plain, white and
even as snow. They were not a mere surface, like the sprinkling
of a hoar frost, but the saline particles lay on the ground nearly
half an inch thick, smooth and level as a mirror. And, indeed,
these lucent tracts of the desert resemble a mirror in more
ways than one ; reflecting the sun with almost the power of a
lens, and sometimes producing optical delusions, more ex-
traordinary than any that ever were represented in a magic-glass.
In this way we journeyed forward, full three farsangs more, be-
fore we arrived at the south-western edge of the plain ; which was
bounded by the new ridge of hills we were to cross. At their
foot, we found part of the shell of a caravansary, just begun, by
order, and at the expense of the Ameen-i-dowlah, the second
minister in the empire. It bids fair to possess every conve-
nience usual in the best places of the sort; and is to have water
conveyed to it by means of kanaughts, from a great distance
amongst the hills; but notwithstanding this care, the stream
will be almost useless; for when I tasted it, at the source, it was
more than brackish. The well-spring was far on, amidst the
rocks, in the road over the hills; which we lost no time in
mounting, and were as much disappointed as the Ameen-i-Dowlah
may hereafter be, at finding the little fount savour so much of
the soil through which it flows.
Having passed these bladeless heights, we descended into
another plain, which showed something of a tinge of vegetation;
and reached our menzil, the caravansary of Poohl-Dowlak, about
ten o’clock in the forenoon; having marched a distance of four
farsangs, or sixteen miles. Here our eyes were refreshed by the
RIVER KONSAR. - 373
sight of a rapid stream, called the Roudkonah Konsar, which
runs from west to east; and is crossed by a stone-bridge, said
to have been built by Shah Abbas the Great, and, since that
time, repaired at the private charge of the public-spirited barber
Poohl-Dowlak. The caravansary stands close to the bank of the
river, and is delightfully cooled by that near neighbourhood to
so rapid a stream. Shah Abbas has the credit of being its
founder; and the Ameen-i-Dowlah has lately restored all its de-
cayed walls; but still, the memory of the honest shaver so pre-
vails over the titles of these two great personages, that both the
bridge and the hostel bear his name. -
May 16th. At the usual hour, five o'clock, we left our night
quarters, crossing the bridge. The river, at this point, was not
more than twenty yards broad. It takes its rise in the vicinity
of Sava; and, from that circumstance, is sometimes called by
the same name, but that of Konsar is its most common appella-
tion. This side of the screen of hills we had just passed fore-
tokens an approach to a more genial country; two or three
streams breaking the dusky hue of the ground, and here and
there enlivening it with a few spots of verdure. But from these
brooks partaking the saline properties of the soil, the general
fertilizing effects of “many waters” are not to be found. Our
troop had scarcely ridden from the bridge a hundred yards, before
we had to ford one of these streams; which, after washing the
walls of the holy city of Koom, and winding through that less
arid plain, finds its way to these barren tracks, where it mingles
its waters with the Konsar. Another river, called the Khour
Shutur, which springs out of the line of mountains that over-
hang Koom, also works its path to the Konsar.
Our road lay south-west; at first amongst low meagre bushes,
374 KOOM, OR KOM.
and straggling stunted trees, which sufficiently showed the tem-
per of the soil; but at the termination of a couple of farsangs,
we lost even this scanty and scathed appearance of vegetation ;
and entered a succession of close, stifling ravines, between a low
cluster of sand-hills. These winding paths led us out into a
more open tract, within two or three miles of Koom, where the
face of nature began to wear a less rigid aspect; grass grew in
many places, and spaces of cultivation, with trees here and
there, happily varied the painful glare of the unshaded sands.
In our immediate approach to the city, we passed over a
bridge of ten arches, which crosses the Hakah Ferak river close
to the town. This stream takes its rise amongst the mountains
to the south-east, called the Khoula Khaja. This range forms a
sterile back-ground to the city, presenting piles of rocks and
broken ridges of earth, deeply marked with salt and sulphur.
The country to the east is one unvaried line of desert, stretch-
ing for hundreds of miles, to the utmost verge of Khorasan.
At about seven or eight farsangs distance, north-west of the
city, the well-known insulated mountain, called Gaitan Guelmas,
rears its immense rounded head. The name means, “Go you
return not.” This mountain is the Kou Talesme, mentioned by
Chardin; but its present appellation might very well suit a nu-
merous description of travellers, who journey to Koom; and if
any of them are brought that way, they literally “go, and return
not;" the most frequent caravans to this holy city, bearing with
them trains of the dead; who were anxious, while alive, to
make their last bed in this sacred ground. t -
We entered the city of Koom, or Kom, about eleven o'clock
in the day; and, notwithstanding all I had heard of its religious
magnificence, I thought it one of the most desolate-looking
KOOM, OR KOM. - 375
places, to be called an inhabited city, that imagination could
have pictured. It lies in latitude 34° 15", longitude 50° 29".
Some authors suppose it to have been the Choama of Ptolemy,
but Mr. Macdonald Kinnier says, it was built in the year of the
Hegira 203, out of the ruins of seven former towns, which had been
destroyed by war. Its present appearance is little better than a
ruin of itself; both within and without the walls, the most
conspicuous objects are old houses fallen into rubbish, crumbling
mosques, and other edifices, all tumbled into heaps, or gradually
mouldering down to that last stage of decay. In fact, this once
populous city, renowned for the sanctity both of its living and
its dead, is now little more than a large straggling wilderness
of ruins, with here and there a few inhabited dwellings; amidst
gardens and corn-fields, shut up, even within the old ram-
parts. The huts, which grew up at the foot of the hoary
structures of Sultania, humble in their appearance, and few in
number, were lost in the stately grandeur of the towers which
surrounded them ; and neither the awful harmony of the ruins,
nor the solemn stillness of their repose, were broken by the few
human beings which sheltered themselves within their moulder-
ing aisles. But every thing at Koom, was anomalous. It was
to be considered as still a city; and buildings of every period,
and of every description, noble and mean, half repaired or
falling into squalid neglect, mingled with the modern dwellings
of the Persian gentlemen or the artizan. And a common every-
day bustle, going on in the streets, though without the promising
appearance of any sort of trade, by divesting the ruinous city of
the usual solitariness and silence found in such places, deprived
its mouldering remains of that solemnity which gives dignity to
fallen greatness; and left nothing in their stead, but a disagreeable
376 MOSQUE OF FATIMA.
impression of dilapidation, poverty or indolence, and a wretched
insensibility to living in the midst of decay.
Upwards of two hundred ruinous places were shewn to me, as
once dedicated to the Imaum Zadis, the Sons of the Saints, or
what we would call the Fathers of the Church. There are also
the remains of above forty mosques, with tombs innumerable,
and other edifices, formerly attached to the consecrated charac-
ter of the city; but all in like manner open on every side to the
blast, and to the casualties of an utter abandonment to desola-
tion. The only exception to this rule, is the mosque and shrine
of Fatima, the descendant of Mahomet ; which has been re-
paired, enriched, and splendidly overlaid with thin plates of
gold, by order of his present Majesty; in consequence of a vow
he had made to that effect, before he ascended the throne.
Notwithstanding that Koom has long been considered the
third city, in point of reverential sanctity, in the empire, yet
the hostile followers of the same prophet, never spared its walls;
and the Afghans, in one of their incursions, about a century
ago, gave it a blow, from which it has never recovered. Besides
the shrine of the fair saint already named, it contains the holy
relics of numerous other beatified persons; and the tombs of
two monarchs of a very different character: Shah Abbas
the Second, of Bacchanalian memory; and his father, Shah Sefi,
equally renowned for the same vice, and its sanguinary impulses.
The remains of these princes are deposited within the golden
mosque; while every quarter near its sacred precincts, or that of
any succeeding saint, are filled with graves of different degrees
of note. In short, whoever can pay for the high privilege, may
mingle their clay with these holy and illustrious personages;
hoping, perhaps, to pass into heaven in their suite unexamined,
THE RAGE FOR SEPULTURE AT KOOM. 377
and therefore free of all chastisement for sin Pilgrims and
lamenting relatives used to come from all parts of the country,
with offerings to the several shrines; and to weep over the
tombs of the departed. But these mummeries are gradually going
out of fashion; though the clinging after a happy immortality,
which influenced the first devotees, to purchase holy sepulture,
continues as strong as ever. Those who are not rich enough to
bequeath their relics, with the due consideration, to partake the
sanctity of Hossein at Kerbela, or to draw on that of the holy Ali,
at Mesched, are content to seek Paradise under the auspices of
the female saint at Koom. During the course of our last day's
march to this city, we overtook a train of mules; one or two of
which were loaded with a couple of coffins, nicely balanced on
each side of the pack-saddle. The muleteer was the only
attendant on the caravan, the only horse-driver, the only mourner
of the deceased ; and, which triple-dutied gentleman, seemed to
pay as little respect to the fulfilment of the two last, as if his
beasts carried the commonest ware. Ridiculous as the spectacle
might appear, it was not the less a sad one; to see those poor
cased-up remains, once the animated bodies of beings like our-
selves, consigned to the sole care of a common carrier; thus
depriving it of the last offices of affection, to fulfil a superstitious
wish on one side, and as an absurd compliance on the other; when,
ten to one, that after all, the dead, so brought, would be interred
even within view of the places, to lie in whose sacred inclosures,
probably some enormous sum had been paid.
Besides this traffic of holy supererogation, Koom was formerly
celebrated for an extensive commerce in silks. But every
manufacture has ceased; and nothing is now done in the way of
employment by the present inhabitants, but cultivating a little
VOL. I. 3 C
378 A KHAN'S MANSION AT KOOM.
corn or rice, in and about the city. The bazars, which once
resounded with the busy hum of merchants, and extended from
one extremity of the place to the other, now present hardly
more than forty shops.
The heat was intense during my short sojourn in the town;
and I was told that, owing to its proximity to the great salt
desert, the summers here are absolutely insupportable. Indeed,
the aspect of its immediate neighbourhood, would alone seem
to account for this extraordinary furnace state of the place. Im-
mense naked rocky mountains, closing it in, to the southward; \
and the scorched surface of the sandy plain, throwing its reflec-
tions on the town from every other side. à
But at Koom, I found, for the first time, the full advantages of
the royal rackam. It provided me excellent quarters in the house
of an absent Persian nobleman; where I had every thing at my
command, for myself and my party; all which comforts were
enjoyed with double relish, by comparing what we now had,
with what we had not, in the scanty accommodations of the
caravansaries. The apartment I inhabited was level with the
ground, and opened into a delicious garden, full of fruit-trees
redundant in beauty and blossom. The thick branches of the
mulberry, the broad leaves of the fig, and the pendant foliage of
the willow, formed a shade over the front of my saloon; while a .
musky, and yet refreshing breeze, sweeping along the flowery
parterres into the wide window, almost made me forget I was
then in the hottest region of Persia. Roses bloomed in abun-
dance over the garden; and the servants of the house did not
neglect to strew them profusely over the carpets of my chamber;
as if I were equally enamoured of their sweets, with the night-
ingale, who at that time—
GENERAL MALCOLM. * 379
Thro' the sleek passage of her open throat,
A clear unwrinkled song, with tender accents,
In controverting warbles softly shared,
Chanted her ditty to the list'ning moon
But these were not the only delicacies with which my present
servitors sought to regale my taste, and to make the Frangeh
(for so they call all Europeans) feel himself at home. In short,
I soon learnt by so many peculiar attentions, that I was not the
only European guest who had lodged under their master's roof;
and, that the Frangeh name they so highly honoured, was that of
General Malcolm. It was delightful to me, to begin a journey
so tracked; for everywhere that I went in the empire, where his
mission had led him, still I found his remembrance in the hearts
of the inhabitants. In many of the villages, the people date
their marriages, or the births of their children, from the epoch
of his visit amongst them ; for, wherever he appeared, his good-
ness left some trace of himself; and the peasants often said to
me, that “if the rocks and trees had suddenly the power of
speech, their first word would be Malcolm ſ” All this, from the
lips of the highest to the lowest, wherever I followed his steps,
could not but be more grateful to his countryman, than even
the blandest breezes under the most Sultry skies. At home, we
exult in, and share the reputation of a brother: abroad, every
one of our countrymen is our brother ; and though we may
never have seen him, his fame warms our heart as if it were our
own. And rightly so, for it seldom happens that we do not
benefit by its influence. - -
May 17th. Having a long, and very fatiguing day's journe
before us, I managed to get my people on horseback by four
o'clock, just as the sun appeared above the level of the desert.
3 C 2
380 RUINS OF LANKER-RooD.
In our way to the city gate, we traversed long tracts of ruinous
streets, and passed several mosques, on whose dilapidated
domes the storks had built their nests. This bird is held in
such veneration by the Persians, as to have obtained the epithet
of Hadjée; an appellation of sanctity, usually appropriated to
the pilgrims who had visited the shrine of Mecca. -
For about one farsang, our road lay a few degrees to the
eastward of south; and for a considerable part of it, the cul-
tivation was rich, the barley high, and of a vivid green, forming
a striking contrast to the boundless sandy plain on our left. To
our right, rose the chain of mountains continuing from the
vicinity of Koom, and taking the wildest, most shattered, and
cliff forms, till they ended abruptly in the flat country, like the
declivity of a pyramid. The whole were rugged, naked, scragged,
and almost colourless; as if something had suddenly torn from
the face of nature her fertile covering, not merely leaving her
naked, but baring her to the very bones. Strong indications of
sulphur, copper, and iron, with here and there a glittering spot
of talc, were plainly perceptible as the eye wandered over their
crude masses. -
After three hours' march, we reached the very singular
remains of a town called Lanker-rood. They consist of large
buildings, totally separated from each other; each constructed
of several central arches, supporting a pointed dome; while
smaller divisions, divided again into cells, project from the body
of the edifice; the whole being finished with the greatest care
and neatness. Nearly a hundred of these insulated structures,
mingled with old walls, and towers, fallen to the most pic-
turesque ruin, surround the low-roofed dwellings which form
the present village of the name. Gardens in disordered beauty
RUINS OF KASSAMABAD. 381
and luxuriance, still enrich this comparatively deserted spot;
from amidst whose thick variety of shade, a species of very large
cypress, with wild pine, and mulberry trees, rose most eminent.
A rapid, full, and clear stream from the mountains, poured down
through this romantic scene, in one part washing the feet of its
mournful groves, and tomb-like edifices, and in others assisting
the industrious peasant to spread vegetation wherever its waters
touched. Large spaces of ground were covered with the growing
barley, where I was shown several little watch-towers, (similar
to some I had observed near Koom,) erected on different
stations near the cultivated lands, and designed for the abode of
certain officers of the crown, whose business is to mark the
progress of the crop, and to watch over its safety when ready
for the sickle. When land is hired from the crown, as this is,
it pays rent according to its produce. For which reason the
above-mentioned sentinels are placed, not merely to preserve
the harvest from the depredations of strangers, but more par-
ticularly to prevent the tenant from stealing his own property;
a manoeuvre that has been adopted to lessen the payment of
rent, by offering the excuse of a robbery having been committed
on the produce of the land. - - -
Continuing our ride for nearly a farsang farther, we reached
the dried-mud remains of a very strong fortress; and proceeding
a mile or two more, came up to the large stone caravansary of
Parsangan. At some distance on the plain, to the south-east,
extended a long black line of ruins; the only interruption to
whose almost horizontal level, was the dome of a lonely mosque;
marking all that now exists of the once considerable town of
Kassamabad, through which Chardin passed in the year 1686.
It was then fully inhabited; now, not an individual, excepting
382 * SHOOR-AUB.
a casual traveller, is to be found within miles of the spot on
which it stood. For some time, our track had lain near the base
of the mountains; which, in every point of the desolated but
interesting scenery I have been describing, added their lofty and
frowning back-ground, to the melancholy memorials of the suc-
cessive devastating wars which had put to silence the towns and
villages below. Gradually, the road turned due south ; and
then, at about two farsangs' distance from Lanker-rood, we
crossed the point of these hills, which is most extended to the
eastward. We had still some hours to travel, and over difficult
ground, before we should reach our halting-place; and the heat
poured upon us with a fervour that made us all earnestly wish
ourselves beyond the influence of the desert. In our way, we
came upon the dry bed of a mountain torrent; at the bottom of
which flowed a small and clear stream of salt-water; and, on
gaining its opposite bank, our day's journey was completed ;
having travelled seven farsangs, that is, twenty-eight miles, by
eleven o’clock, the time at which we halted. A newly-erected
caravansary, taking its name from the brook Shoor-Aub, we had
just passed, stood very invitingly, in the gorge of a narrow rocky
valley, leading into the heart of the mountains. This was to be
our quarters; and though its neat brick-work bore no harmony
with the gloomy heights by which it was surrounded, it was very
congenial with our present taste; and gladly we turned our
horses' heads under the hospitable porch. The entrance to the
valley had, formerly, been defended by a strongly towered castle;
whose dark ruins rose in heavy, but majestic masses, over the
light structure that was now our shelter from the sun.
May 18th. I did not get off till five o'clock this morning;
the road still due south, winding amongst the hills, with little
DHAY NAIN. - 383
variety, till we reached the remains of an extensive turreted
enclosure. Thence we descended into the plain, having a view,
as we passed, of another deserted town, which is called Dhay
Nain. It stands on the slope of a high ground, commanding
one of the pleasantest prospects in the whole range. The chief
buildings were of the same character with those at Lanker-rood;
and in one of them I found the remains of a handsome saloon,
with stuccoed walls, richly painted in the usual Persian style.
The arches of the structure, (for such a temple-shaped edifice,
it is difficult to consider, and name as a house,) were decorated
in a similar fashion; and in several of the pinnacled recesses of
the room, were the vestiges of whole length portraits, in fresco,
of men and women, executed in a much better taste than any
I had seen at Teheran. The name of the place would imply its
having been celebrated for the growth of pomegranates; and,
indeed, the walls of the numerous extensive gardens which used
to be covered with those brilliant trees of “emerald and ruby
hue,” still stretch far to the south-eastern side of the hills. On
every enquiry respecting the depopulation here, and the devasta-
tion there; why the mulberry-tree, no longer cherished its silk-
worms; or the golden fruits of Dhay Nain, fell ungathered to the
ground; I have but one answer, – “Invasion, from one side or
other ſ” And these invaders were Turcomans, Tartars, and
Afghans ! We, here, would call them barbarians. But, indeed, the
more I see of these numerous ruined tracts, and recollect what
blood-stained lands I have lately traversed in Europe, the more am
I impressed, that a spirit of conquest is a remains of the spirit of
barbarism. The perfection of policy is to make your own station a
good one; and of bravery, to maintain your place. But to trample
on the lands and the rights of our neighbours, whether in the private
384 SIN SIN.
chapow, or the public invasion, can have but one character; a bar-
barous seizure by strength, of the properties of the feeble. And,
often, to what end? The ruins of this valley can makethe true reply.
Though we had gained the plain, we did not quit our moun-
tain land-mark on the right, whose elevations seemed to increase
as we proceeded. We had journeyed by their side, all the way
from Koom; sometimes within a mile of their base; at others,
traversing the lower defiles, or crossing the minor hills; and the
same lofty chain to the west, with the desert on the east, were
to be our flanking lines, to the gates of Kashan. There, leaving
the desert to the north-east, we were to plunge at once into the
very heart of the great mountain-road; through this immense
south-eastern branch of Taurus, but which, in this country, bears
a variety of local names.
Advancing at the foot of the hills, from Dhay Nain, we found
cultivation in a very respectable state; and, in about an hour's
ride, arrived at the caravansary of Sin Sin; a spacious building,
lately erected by order of the Shah, of the best stone and
workmanship. The town from which it derives its name, is a
complete ruin; but still possessing the remains of many domed
edifices, sufficiently entire to show that they bore the same style
of architecture with those I had remarked at Lanker-rood, and
at Dhay Nain. At the first of these places, I was at a loss to
guess their purpose; the form being something of a temple or
mosque shape; but finding them divided into domestic apart-
ments at Dhay Nain; and seeing them again, here at Sin Sin,
and so numerous; I cannot now doubt that so extraordinary
an architecture for dwelling-houses, was, nevertheless, the ge-
neral taste in this part of Persia, at the time these towns held
their greatest consequence. At the distance of a few hundred
TÉTOE （ ）






NAZIRABAD. 385
yards from the caravansary, appear the massy fragments of two
castellated bulwarks, now battered down into little more than
rude heaps. The fertility of this part of the plain, was much
superior to what we had lately seen ; and the difference was
easily explained, by the countless little streams which, pouring
from the mountains in a variety of directions, spread fruitful-
ness wherever they touched; the salt tracts alone excepted,
which unalterably maintained their cold, white, desolate ap-
pearance. -
We reached Nazirabad at ten o’clock in the forenoon ; and our
mehmandar estimated the distance between it and our last quar-
ters, in the caravansary at Shoor-Aub, at seven farsangs, that is,
twenty-eight miles ; an amount I cannot credit, from the short-
ness of the time, only five hours, in which we must have tra-
velled it. The immediate neighbourhood of this place is parti-
cularly animated, by a succession of populous villages scattered
all along the foot of the adjacent mountains. In one of the
most extensive we halted. It possessed a noble caravansary, the
erection of one of the inhabitants, at his own cost; and which,
both for magnitude and accommodation, far exceeded any I had
hitherto seen.
The people were all in the greatest joy; making festivals
amongst themselves, and returning thanks to God, for the
blessing of so much rain as had fallen this spring. Indeed, I had
witnessed similar testimonies of gratitude during the whole way
of my travel from Teheran; wherever I found inhabitants, in
towns or villages. And well might they express such feelings;
having only the year before, suffered the most grievous calamities
attendant on the failure of the seasonable rains, famine, and all
its connecting miseries. In the midst of their present rejoicings,
VOL. I. 3 D
386 FAMINE AT KASHAN.
they shuddered in relating the horrible scenes of the summer
of 1817. The sterility had extended all over this part of the
empire, and spread even to the borders of Azerbijan. Two
successive years without the usual rains, had produced this
universal barrenness; and on the third, the famine was so at its
height, that cats, dogs, asses, mules, and horses, were devoured
by the starving natives. At Kashan, an unhappy pair were so
reduced from poverty and famine, as to kill two of their female
infants for food. And a woman was found expiring on the high
road near the same town, with a small bag lying near her;
which, on examining, disclosed the remains of her only child,
whom she also had murdered to support her own miserable life.
The maun of barley (seven pounds and a half), at that time was
sold for one real, but at last not a grain was to be had. Its
usual price, at this part of Persia, was three shyes the maun ; and
twenty-five shyes make one real; eight reals amount to one
tomaun ; six tomauns to one ducat: the real, at present, is
equivalent to one shilling and three-pence British money. But
to return to the melancholy subject of the famine. Abbas
Mirza, at that terrible season, most conspicuously manifested his
truly princely qualities; and gathering together all that might
be spared from the wants of his own province, he sent a large
quantity of corn to the royal camp at Sultania; and, from the
same bounteous source, enabled the governor of Teheran to
supply the famishing inhabitants of Kashan with a hundred
culverts. Amidst the general distress, thousands attempted to
fly to other places, where they thought the famine might be less
severe; but their strength failing them, the roads were covered
with the dead and dying. Is it in imagination to conceive such
scenes as these? War and pestilence are terrible evils, but
JACKALLS IN THE CARAVANSARY. 387
neither, nor both together, can be compared with the horrors
described to me of this famine. -
About midnight, I was disturbed by the loud yells of the
jackalls, prowling close under the walls of the caravansary. One
of them contrived to scramble up to the roof, where, pacing
about, he continued his responsive screams to his hungry com-
panions below; but not content with that achievement, he
found his way down into the quadrangle of the building, and
then I soon heard two fine grey-hounds which I had brought
with me, in full chase after the interloper. It must have been
easier for him to descend than to mount again, for the race was
repeated several times round the court before he could make his
escape; and then it was by earthing himself under a heap of
large stones, which had been piled up on one side to complete a
yet unfinished part of the building. By the time I could join
the fray, my people had got every thing mounted for our march;
and leaving the poor animal in his sanctuary, the gates of our
quarters were thrown open, and we set forth in one of the most
lovely nights, or mornings, I know not exactly which to name
it, that I ever saw in my life. The extreme heat of the pre-
ceding day, had given me due warning not to tempt a similar
fire. And, as the nights were now so little inferior to day, in light-
someness sufficient for the purposes of observation, I was very
well pleased to change five o'clock, with a hot sun, my former
time of starting, for three hours earlier, with generally a cooling
breeze.
Hence, at two o'clock (May 19th,) we rode out from the
gate of our caravansary, under the guidance of a moon so
bright, that with ease I could discover the hour and the bearings
by my pocket-compass. Our road lay nearly south; and at
3 D 2
388 KASHAN.
every step, while looking above me and around me, I could not
forbear ejaculating to myself, Southey's exquisite apostrophe,
in his Thalaba, to a similar Asiatic scene, – “How beautiful is
night !” &c. As we advanced on the plain, the villages increased
in numbers, and the culture of the ground bespoke the flourish-
ing condition of the government of Kashan. The high range
of mountains still at our side, appeared with peculiar magnifi-
cence; their varied heads shooting up into the cloudless and
luminous blue of the vaulted sky, reflected the moon's rays on
their summits, with all the pearly hue and lustre only to be
seen in oriental climates; while the deepened shadows at their
base, gave a profounder majesty to these heaven-tinted brows.
But it was only in parts, that such very dark shadows prevailed;
a broad and silvery light, in general rested on the whole country.
The sun, however, rose upon us in the midst of our ride; and,
as we hoped to be housed before his beams could become very
powerful, we felt no apprehensive drawback from our pleasure,
in contemplating the beauty and splendour with which his bright
car seemed to mount the horizon of the desert.
By six o'clock, having travelled about three farsangs in four
hours, we saw the northern gate of Kashan, which is covered by
the royal garden; and amidst whose cooling shades we im-
mediately plunged, to find our appointed quarters in the Khooleh
Frangy.
Kashan, or Cachan, is situated on the plain, at some distance
from the foot of the hills, and lies in latitude 33°. 54'. 32". The
town is of large extent, and surrounded by walls and towers in
good repair. At present, as in former times, its silk brocades
are celebrated all over Persia, and bring very profitable returns
to the place. A particularly rich shawl, of silk fabric, is also
KASHAN. 389
made here, and in as great request. The worms which produce
the raw material, are carefully bred and watched by the in-
habitants of the neighbouring villages; and they never fail to
amply remunerate the industry that rears them. A manufactory
of copper utensils, is also an article of commerce between the
town and its adjacent provinces; and, upon the whole, I think
we may look upon Kashan as one of the most thriving places in
this quarter of the empire. -
The thermometer according to Fahrenheit, was only 82; an
atmosphere by no means oppressive anywhere. But where we
were quartered, it was rendered delightful, by the refreshing
shade of thick rows of cypress, mixed with the wide branches of
a species of cedar, not unlike that of Lebanon. In the course
of the day, the gardens became thronged with people of all
ranks from the town, who came there to enjoy the sultry hours
of leisure; lying or sitting under the green canopy of the trees;
some reposing on their many-coloured carpets; others seated on
the grass; and not a few lolling amongst, the high and humid
weeds. The groups were very picturesque; their attitudes and
employments being as various as their figures and habits.
Some were sleeping, some talking, others singing, and most
smoking their kaliouns decorated with their favourite flower;
but there was one occupation, which, perhaps, we may find more
or less every where but in England. Happy country to be so
exempt (at least in our times) from any share of that most
disgusting of the plagues of Egypt, which some of the lower
order of Persians were then hunting from their persons, as if
they too had been curst “ in all their quarters.” With respect
to the vocal performance, with which the before-mentioned
native rivals of the nightingale, with up-turned eyes, seemed
390 - LIZARDS OF KASHAN.
wooing the roses from their spray, I can only say, that not one
in ten of them had any thing of a voice; and so little of an ear,
that without an idea of a tune, they went bawling on, sometimes
singly, sometimes in concert, in one loud uproar, occasionally
broken now and then by a guttural shake, not unlike the
guggling of water in a bottle.
I was told by their own countrymen, that the inhabitants of
Kashan are over-reaching, to a proverb. A vice that seems
indigenous to mere local trafficking; it being difficult to make
petty dealers understand the mutually enriching consequences of
the broad principles of reciprocal confidence, on which great
commercial establishments transact business. Kashan has
another sort of reptile within its walls, a terrible breed of
scorpions of the most venomous description. Fortunately for
me, I lodged without the city; and to that, probably, we owed
our escape from making a disagreeable acquaintance with both.
Indeed, I have every reason to thank God, that neither myself,
nor any of my people, had ever yet felt a single smart from the
touch of any one of the numerous poisonous creatures with
which these warm regions are infested. At this season of the
year, this ephemeral sort of life seems to swarm, both in the air,
and on the ground; and amongst the harmless inhabitants of
the latter, I observed numbers of lizards and tortoises crawling
along the sides of the roads. Some of the former were of
strange shapes, and others of an unusual length; one, that we
found dead, was above two feet from the nose to the tip of the
tail. I remarked, that these animals invariably took the colour
of the ground in which each particular kind existed. If verdant,
the lizard was green; if sandy, she was a yellowish white; if
red earth, or reddish mouldering stones, she was pink; and if
GUEBERABAD. 391
found amongst fragments of rock, and other dusky-hued relics,
she would appear of a varied brown. I leave this fact to
naturalists to explain, confessing myself totally ignorant of its
secret. -
May 20th. We did not leave our pleasant quarters in the
royal Khooleh Frangy of Kashan, until eight o'clock in the even-
ing of the next day after we had entered them. I wished to
give my party, men and beasts, a good rest before commencing
the mountainous journey in prospect; and also to prosecute it
under the advantage of the present moon-light nights. Hence,
we sounded to horse, at the hour named; and again went
cheerily forward, meeting the bright uprise of the full-orbed
planet. Our road lay south 5 east, traversing the plain ; and
holding the mountains to our right, at a distance of about a
couple of miles. We soon came up to a cluster of dilapidated
walls, called Assyab-i-Shah, or the King's mill; close to which
flows a fine stream, that is afterwards lost in irrigation. Three
farsangs farther, brought us to what we may call the offsets of
the great stem of the mountains on this side; namely, a range
of low hills. We entered their close upland defiles; and soon
found that at every winding, their heights increased in altitude,
and the road became more tortuous and difficult over the broken,
and sometimes under the pendant, rocks. This darkling laby-
rinth at last brought us to a confined valley, or dell, in the
bosom of which stood the ruins of the village of Gueberabad.
Not a living creature was there, excepting the grey lizards,
which we saw glancing under the moonlight, as they glided
amongst the stones. Its name told the story of its desolation.
I had seldom seen a place more wild and lonesome. At about
a mile further on, we came somewhat abruptly in front of a very
392 MAGNIFICENT CARAVANSARY.
different scene, a magnificent caravansary, of the superb age of
Abbas the Great. The bold, untameable regions by which it
was surrounded, were in noble harmony with the vastness of its
dimensions, and the grandeur of its form, massy, lofty, and
castellated. It stood on a commanding, position of the rock,
looking upon the cliffs above, and the deep ravine beneath, with
the proud aspect of a mountain fortress. The clear, pale moon;
the huge black and impending crags which towered over the
majestic pile; the roaring of the unseen waters, rushing amidst
the deeply rent chasm, fathomless to the eye, from the dark
shadows of night; the stillness of every thing but those waters;
all gave an impression of the true sublime; solemn, vast, and
mysterious. ' -
On quitting these scenes, we descended between the closely
contracting heights, into a very narrow valley, or rather, I might
call it, a deep rocky ravine, at the bottom of which dashed a
full and rapid stream. The way was rough and hazardous, from
the broken fragments which lay across it from the mountain's
sides. We pursued this rugged track for nearly six miles, with
one still more fatiguing and perilous in view. It began by pre-
senting to us a mere path, scarcely wide enough for a foot-
passenger; and commencing at a point where the valley ter-
minated in a tremendous abyss ; its depth on one side, and a
precipitous mountain on the other. Our new and dangerous
way, led direct to the summit of this mountain. -
It seemed prudent to halt a short while, to rest ourselves and
our horses, and to tighten the baggage on the backs of our
mules; having, from necessity, walked them nearly the whole of
the last six miles. By the time we had completed our arrange-
ments, the morning was beginning to dawn; and its roseate
MOUNTAIN-SCENERY OF TAURUS. 393
light, mingling with the pale illumination of the moon, rendered
every object perfectly distinct, which before were lost in the
partial obscurities of the mountain-shadows. The view which
opened upon us, was overwhelmingly grand. Words cannot
describe it; and all I can say is, that Taurus, in this point, might
vie with any part of the Caucasus, for sublimity in form, hue,
and bearing. i
On reaching the top of a tremendous steep, which terminates
this almost insurmountable pass, we found ourselves in sight of
a small lake, whence begins the romantic mountain-vale of
Kourood. This body of water is artificially produced, by the
retention of a considerable stream, which would otherwise have
rolled over the face of the rock, and pouring down the side of
the shelving abyss we had just ascended, have formed another
stupendous object in the scene. It is preserved from such pre-
cipitation by a very strong walled embankment, of an enormous
thickness. The absence of so noble a feature as the fall must
have been, may be regretted by a picturesque eye; but the
agricultural purposes of its confinement, more than compensate
for any abstraction from the pleasures of taste merely.
Much of the water, however, is lost to the inhabitants of the
vale, by oozing through the earth at the bottom of the lake, and
descending into the lower dells, forms the sinuous and rapid
stream which we crossed and re-crossed so often during the
preceding night. tº -
Two miles more of difficult road, brought us to the entrance
of the little vale, which is deservedly the boast of this part of
the country, being in the highest cultivation from one end to
the other. Here I found all the usual trees of Persia, large,
healthy, and luxuriant. The fruit-trees were particularly fine,
VOL. I. 3 E

394 K OUROOD-PA-INE.
and so numerous, that they appeared to form woods of them-
selves ; chesnut, almond, peach, apple, plum, cherries, in short,
every fruit which can be made to grow in these regions. The
grape is never seen amongst them; a useful precaution, perhaps,
lest temptation might press it into wine! The slopes of the
mountains on each side of the vale (for here steep on steep
only lead to others) were covered with abundant crops of corn
and barley. The ground on which they grew, was formed by
ranges of terraces on the slopes I have just mentioned, and
ingeniously fed with water by the indefatigable husbandmen.
There are two villages in this little district, bearing the name
of Kourood, which the natives distinguish by the addition of the
Upper and the Lower. They are nearly a mile separate, and
contain all the population of the vale, which, though prolific of
inhabitants, is not more than five miles long, and two in breadth.
The number of dwellings which compose both places may
amount to about two hundred. They are clean, commodious,
and cheerful, are built on the side of the hill; and each house has
several stories, with a flat roof: a style of village architecture,
totally different from any I had hitherto seen in Persia. The
activity of the peasantry amongst their trees, and along the
heights waving with the future harvest, gave a delightful ani-
mation to every object; and the figures of the women, which
we sometimes descried passing through the rose and jasmine
parterres, that grew up with the apples and pears near their houses,
seemed moving with that sort of bustling step, which betokens
the help-mates of their husbands. .
We passed through the first of these villages, which is called
Kourood-pa-ine, our design being to halt in the upper place of
the name, nearer to the southern extremity of the valley. In

UPPER KOUROOD. 395
our way, we crossed a burying-ground; and, amongst the numerous
rustic monuments which marked the humble graves, 1 observed
a rude tomb, roughly sculptured, with something like the form
of a lion, and a scimitar lying by its side, in relievo. On
inquiring of the native who was our guide to the Upper Kourood,
what he knew about this stone, he told us it was extremely
ancient, and covered the remains of some great Pelhiva; meaning
a warrior of the earliest ages of Persia; that appellation being
generally restricted to the heroic times of the first Cyrus, and
his immediate descendants.
Interesting as all these objects were ; and though at every turn
some new proof presented itself of the industry of the inhabit-
ants, yet they had not subdued the ruggedness of the road; and
our horses, strained in climbing the steeps, with those of my com-
pany who cared less about “the wonderful, the wild,” than their
master, tugged forward nearly as weary as our mules. After hard
breathing, we reached the upper village a little before five in the
morning; having travelled between seven and eight farsangs in
nine hours, over, indeed, one of the most romantic and adventur-
ous roads I had seen, since passing the rocky wilds of the Terek.
May 21. All around us, in our little Arcadian lodging, was in
unison with the rural simplicity of the scene; and every sylvan
luxury which the place afforded, were bounteously spread before
us; particularly, a variety of dried fruits of delicious flavour. One
of the great sources of this valley's extraordinary prosperity, is
derived from these sort of preserves; which the inhabitants pre-
pare, by a certain process while exposing them when perfectly ripe,
and gathered, to the sun; and which they afterwards sell, at very
profitable prices, to agents from all parts of the empire. My weary
party soon recovered their fatigued spirits, with such fare, and in

3 E 2
396 RUINS OF SOW.
so genial an atmosphere; for, at twelve o'clock at noon, the
thermometer was only 60 Fahrenheit in the shade, which shows
the delightful temperature of its air.
In observing the fair sex, who occasionally flitted across our
way, I remarked some difference in their costume here, from
what I had seen in any other part of Persia. Besides the chadre,
or long wrapping drapery, these women wore a smaller interior
veil, fastened at the crown of the head, passing under the chin,
and hanging down a short way over the breast; their upper
coat, was much longer than the usual fashion, falling to the
knees; and their trowsers rather tighter than those commonly
in use. The effect produced a lighter air to the person, and the
dames certainly tripped about with no indolent step.
May 22d. We left our pleasant quarters between five and
six o'clock in the morning, perfectly refreshed, and prepared for
the long tracts of mountain roads yet before us. Something less
than half an hour's ride took us totally beyond sight of the happy
valley, and we struck off, at a brisk pace, amongst the numerous
ravines, whose winding paths were to form this day's route. Our
road varied with these serpentine directions, from south-east to
south, but the latter was our general bearing. After marching
about six farsangs, we reached the barren tract of Sow ; a valley
without a tree, and having only a few meagre spots in culture; but
I found a fine caravansary, lately built, and possessing most of the
accommodations we required. The town of Sow is almost a
total ruin. Its remains do not stand very far from the caravan-
sary; but the eye cannot descry one unfractured roof, to offer to
native or to traveller, excepting a few tolerably entire buildings,
clustered together on the summit of an adjacent eminence;
which, from their height, proximity, and elevated situation, from

PIDAH AND DEY-LORS. 397
a distance have the imposing effect of a castle. A clear stream
of excellent water flows at the base of the eminence.
May 23d. The refreshment which that pure stream gave to
us, seemed a silent promise of better things to come ; and this
morning's march convinced us, that only will and diligence were
necessary to make the sterile tract of Sow change its character
to that of a garden of plenty. At four o'clock this morning we
quitted the caravansary, keeping in a direction south 5° east
along the valley. Fertility now clothed all its slopes, with grain
and fruit-trees; which we sorrowingly left, after a farsang's ride, to
enter upon a very wide and extensive sandy plain, encircled by
mountains rising over each other with the gradations of a theatre,
till the sight grew giddy in pursuing their rugged peaks into the
sky. Marching onward, we passed two handsome villages; the
first, on our right, was called Pidah, and the second, which was
at some distance further on our left, had the name of Dey-Lors.
Being on the open plain, we had the full power of the sun, with
the addition of being exposed to whirlwinds of the hot dust;
which met us in sweeping columns, in appearance like pillars of
yellow smoke, but with all the substantial realities of fiery par-
ticles, filling our eyes, adhering to and scorching our skins, and
exasperating the thirst with which our parched throats were
burning. Not a drop of water presented itself any where, for
many miles, to allay the dreadful drowth for one moment; and
the specimen, brief as it was in comparison, gave us no faint idea
of the like sufferings endured sometimes for days together, in
passing the great deserts. However, our pains of the kind were
soon over, for, after a travel of three farsangs over this minor
waste, we approached a large tank of water; and drank of it with
a zest and a gratitude not to be understood, till the need and
e;
;
*.
398 MOURCHA-KHORDE.
the relief make known the bounty, by teaching us to appreciate
the blessing.
From this spot, the immense caravansary of Aga Kamel Bela,
which had long been a conspicuous object to us on our right,
bore south 45° west. Continuing our route, we saw that of Aga
Kamel-pa-ine also, bearing to the westward, a farsang from the
other: they are both enormous establishments. Nine miles
more of the plain, brought us to our welcome Menzil for the
day ; and there the sand and dust gave place to soil and verdure;
our quarters being at Mourcha-Khorde, a large and fine village,
well watered, and surrounded by fields of corn, then in full
growth of the most vivid green : but we were lodged in the
caravansary, another new and spacious edifice.
During our advance to this place, we passed the baggage and
household establishment of some khan, going to Teheran to join
his Majesty's encamping excursion for the summer. Besides a
numerous suite of camels and mules, bearing camp-equipage,
bedding, culinary apparatus, &c. &c., there were another set of the
latter sort of animals, pacing along under the more honourable
burthen of his women, and their female attendants. These last I
had an opportunity of seeing, from their conveyances being entirely
open; which were, a couple of panniers nicely poized on each
side of a mule, with a damsel in each, seated on her heels in the
doubled-up fashion of gipsey-children in a basket; and with as
little shelter from the weather, for the poor Persian abigails sat
exposed all the way to the intense rays of the sun, without any
additional covering to that of their ordinary veils. The ladies
were in the same style of vehicle, but sheltered; their panniers,
or wooden kreels, being canopied with semicircular tops, and co-
vered with blue or green cloth hanging all over it, and down the
CARAVANSARY OF A SEFI PRINCESS. 399
front like a curtain. As they sit with their faces towards the
head of the animal, these sort of loads have a most singular ap-
pearance at a distance. Our journey was this day seven farsangs;
and we reached our caravansary at half-past twelve at noon.
May 24th. We quitted our lodgings this morning at three
o'clock, with a moon brilliant as day. By my compass, we were
going in a direction south 45° east, still upon the plain. At
four, the dawn broke; and at half-past five we passed a large
and splendid caravansary, built by the mother of the great Abbas.
Its foundations are dark-blue marble, surrounded by high and
massy walls of the finest brick masonry. The tops of the
towers, and of the walls also, are finished in an extraordinary
style of elegance, with a sort of open work; giving a light, and
almost lace appearance, to the edging of so solid a building. An
ornament, altogether well-adapted to what we might suppose
the taste of a lady-foundress. Nearly opposite to this fine struc-
ture, stand the remains of one of those fortified enclosures which
usually appendaged caravansaries of consequence, (when far from
villages;) as a walled depôt for the forage and other supplies,
necessary to the accommodation of travellers.
From this point, we soon began to ascend one of the many
short ranges of hills, which spotted the immense plain, at dif-
ferent distances. The line we crossed, stretched north-west,
scarcely a mile and a half in length; and from its summit we
saw the other groups, forming far separate breaks in the level
champaign. Having surmounted this screen, we proceeded due
south, over a tolerable road, and passed the ruins of another
caravansary, of large dimensions; but no otherwise remarkable
than possessing a well, which must be sought at the bottom of
an excavated way, on a descent of nearly forty yards. Some
400 VILLAGE OF GUZ.
years ago, a detachment of musketeers were regularly posted
here, to check the incursions of the bold and still independent
tribes from the Louristan and Baktiara mountains; who used
to come down in formidable bands, laying waste the villages, or
carrying off whole caravans in their way to and from Ispahan.
But the steady execution of the laws against these, or any other
depredators, when discovered and taken, has, for a time at least,
entirely put a stop to such sallies; and, consequently, to the
necessity of a stationary military guard. This old caravansary-
fort stands about half-way between the Queen's caravansary,
before described, and the village of Guz, or Gaz, where we
were to halt for the day. When we reached it, the keeper, who
was a very intelligent person, told me the distance might be
about six farsangs from Mourcha-Khorde.
Guz is a very extensive village; and close to it we found our
proposed quarters; the magnitude and solidity of which, at once
declared the building to be of Sefi origin. Our host's inform-
ation on the subject, was, that the Khodjeh-bashi, or chief-eunuch
of the court of Shah Abbas, being a man of great riches and a
magnificent spirit, not only built this caravansary, and the two
we had seen at a distance on the commencement of our march
over the plain, namely, Aga Kamel Bela, and Aga Kamel-
pa-ine, but several others, in different parts of the country. The
name of this officer, so worthy of the splendid reign in which he
lived, was Aga Kamel. And, as these sort of edifices are erected
on almost the same plan throughout the empire, varying only in
dimensions, materials, or ornaments, I shall take the oppor-
tunity of some hours' rest in that of Guz, to describe, from its
details, the general accommodations of them all. y
The extent of this building is an exact square, of one hundred
CARAVANSARY AT GUZ. 40ſ
yards on every side, flanked by four towers, of a diameter so
disproportioned to the length of the intervening walls, as not to
exceed nine feet. Within these walls are the buildings which
form the accommodations of the caravan. On entering the great
gate, the first object that presents itself, is a kind of piazza,
which extends itself on every side of the interior of the qua-
drangle, leaving a noble area, or court, in the middle. These
piazzas are subdivided into lofty arched apartments, open in
front, and all neatly paved. At ten feet within each of these, is
another chamber, fifteen feet deep, and containing, at its farther
end, a fire-place, besides several little compartments cut out
of the thickness of the wall, called topshehs, or cupboards,
which are deemed indispensables in every Persian room. This
interior chamber is seldom resorted to before winter; the outer
one, open to the court, being considered the summer apartment,
from the advantage it affords of breathing the free, incommoded
air. The traveller spreads his nummud upon the paved floor;
fitting it up with bedding according to his own idea of comfort;
but nothing is really necessary, beyond a pillow, with a sheet
for the warmest nights, and a quilt for the cool. Immediately
behind this double range of chambers, runs an open space or
lane, in like manner following the quadrangular sweep of the
building; the hinder side of the lane, (that is, the one nearest
the wall of the caravansary,) being an arcade also ; and divided
into cell-like apartments, for the use of servants, muleteers,
and other persons, wishing to keep station near their cattle ;
which are generally stabled in the lane, between the front of this
last arcade, and the back of the one first described. Sometimes,
when the caravansary is very full, the animals are picketed in
the great court, while their attendants sleep on a large elevated
VOL. I. - * 3 F
402 CARAVANSARY AT GUZ.
square platform, which occupies the centre; and, round it the
packages of the travellers are piled up in heaps. Reposing in
the open air is not merely a luxury to all orders of people in
this climate, at this season, but is indispensable to their healths
and their comfort in many other respects; close apartments being
often not only intolerable from heat, but often sorely infested
with vermin both great and small. One ample entrance leads
into the caravansary, the gates of which are closed soon after
sun-set; and only occasionally re-opened during the night for
the egress of departing guests. Beneath the extensive vaulted
roof of the porch, are the quarters of the keeper, or warden,
and his people; with the shop, and other repositories of the
accommodations he prepares for travellers. Amongst this nu-
merous store, we see exposed to sale, tobacco, rice, grapes,
water-melons, eggs, grease, bread, wood, corn, moss, &c. This
last article is a beverage of acidulated milk, and when diluted
with water, is a favourite drink with the natives'; the antiquity
of the beverage is so great, that Plutarch mentions it as part
of the ceremony at the consecration of the Persian kings, to quaff
off a large goblet of this acidulated mixture: an apt emblem
of the sweets and sours that fill the cup of royalty Every com-
modity being sold at double the ordinary price, the renter of the
caravansary is enabled to pay liberally to the agent of the crown
for his privilege, and to realise a very handsome profit besides.
In most of the caravansaries which remain from earlier times,
there are three or four vaulted chambers over the grand portico,
which have always been held in more dignity than any others of
the building. These are perforated on all sides with apertures
and doors; being a sort of temple of the winds, imbibing al
breeze or blast at every pore. Indeed I had never the honour of
being conducted to one of them, without incurring the penalty
WILLAGE OF GUZ. 403
of the distinction; by being at hunt, half the time, to find some
neck of shelter from the clouds of dust and gravel, which,
when the winds were really a-stir, usually entered in their train.
But, one or two advantages these “high places” certainly pos-
sessed; being less used, they are freer from dirt and vermin
than the recesses below; and, as chambers appropriated to one
class of persons, they are particularly sacred from intrusion.
Hence, when the hour of repose is, what we should always
wish it, fair and serene ; when stretched on our carpets, in one of
these lofty balconies, open to the zephyrs around, and to the
glowing heavens above, printed with stars; nothing could be
more still, more lovely, more addressive to the mind, and
pregnant with the divinest lore; reminding me, as I gazed, that
we were approaching the land of Chaldea; on whose plains the
Shepherds lay under the same genial sky, with their eyes fixed
on the very same constellations; and, from thence, gave the
first lessons of astronomy to men.
The village of Guz appears to be in an equally prosperous state
with its caravansary; corn, barley, cotton, melons, water-melons,
&c. &c., covering the country as far as our sight could reach.
It is abundantly served with water; first, by a fine spring; and,
secondly, from a variety of well-supplied kanaughts. Indeed,
there is no source whence the crown draws its revenue so pro-
ductively, as from that of these waters; for the advantage of which
artificial channels, a certain sum is paid yearly to government.
Great as that may be, it is short of what it might be, were the
dispersion of these aqueducts better understood; and were the
dues properly collected, the result would be double profit to
the crown. But, in this country, (as it is sometimes even with
ourselves,) there are a train of intermediate agents between
3 F 2
404 THE KANAUGHTS OF GUZ.
the government and the tax; who either eat up three-fourths of
the expected sum, before it reaches the treasury ; or so grind
each other at every remove from the first delegated hand, that
when the last and full exaction is made from the industrious
peasant, or trader, or warder of a caravansary, (it being demand-
ed in sufficient quantity to stick a reasonable profit to the cof.
fers of each successive extortioner, in its way to those of the
sovereign,) the poor labouring wretch at the bottom of the lad-
der is made to dig the gold out of his very veins; to pour it
out with his sweat and his blood; and giving his last handful
of grain this year, with all his means of subsistence, to these hard
task-masters, leaves the land and the royal dues to shift for
themselves in the next. The kanaughts of Guz are farmed out,
to twenty-four of its inhabitants, at a rent of twenty-five tomauns
per annum each; which tax does not include what the crown
claims on the produce of the land nourished by this water; nor do
those claims cover all the contributions that may be demanded,
under several different pleas, of the proprietors. Indeed, it is
even more difficult to acquire any certain knowledge of the ways
and means by which the revenue of this country is calculated
and collected, than to obtain any reasonable estimate of its
population. Every thing of the sort appears to be done by farm-
ing, and monopoly; a common, and universally impoverishing
error with arbitrary governments; and which, while its principle
continues, must dam up the sources of national wealth, by under-
mining the foundations of all industry, whether agricultural,
commercial, or any thing else. Hence, the plough, and the
loom, are often abandoned in despair; and the poor rack-rented
husbandman, or mechanic, flies to some distant province; to
seek less oppressive exactors, of some less exorbitant impost.
ISPAHAN. • 405
Thus do villages, and even districts, not unfrequently become
entirely deserted; and, on enquiry, what inroad of Tartar or
Turkoman had rendered the houses tenantless, and left so many
fine tracts of land without culture, we are surprised with the
information, that some avaricious governor, or, more likely, his
rapacious satellites, had passed that way; and the besom of
destruction could not have swept surer.
May 25th. At two o'clock this morning, we bade adieu to our
good host of the caravansary of Guz; and keeping a course due
south along the plain for a track of six fair miles, were then
most grievously impeded, by a road broken up in hundreds of
places, by the fractured state of as many old water-channels;
while on all sides of us, we saw ruins of every description, the
former dwelling-places of a once numerous and prosperous
population, which had fully inhabited this finest district in the
immediate vicinity of Ispahan; but war alone, had been the
enemy here. When morning dawned, we discovered the long
black line of this once great capital, as the sun rose above the
horizon; the countless domes and columns of the mosques, be-
came instantly distinguished, and glittering under its oblique
rays, reminded me of the ancient metropolis of the Tzars, when
I first saw it, in all its Asiatic splendour, at the decline of the
year 1806.
Having ridden about four miles, over ground that showed, by
many marks, how much beyond it the suburbs of the great
capital had once extended, we arrived at the Gouch Khonah, a
very old mosque of the early Sunnees; at which point commences
what is now termed the beginning of the city. After passing
through an avenue of noble trees, we entered the long vaulted
covered way of the bazar, under whose massy arches we travelled
406 ISPAHAN.
on for considerably more than a mile, to where they terminated
at the northern angle of the royal square, or Maidan Shah.
Crossing one side of this immense area, we re-entered the con-
tinuation of the bazar at the opposite angle, and having traversed
its arcade also, issued forth into a vast space of what had been
streets and squares, now covered with ruins of every description.
This was a melancholy avenue to the residence of the great
monarch, now no more, who had seen so many of those very
buildings rise up under his own eye; who had ridden abroad
through their populous and thriving streets, rejoicing in the
prosperity of his people, and proud of the magnificence it
produced. This sad desolation brought us to the gate of the
Shaher Bagh, or four gardens, the superb domain attached to
the palace of the great Shah Abbas. Notwithstanding I had
dispatched my mehmandar the preceding evening, to prepare
for my arrival, by some miscalculation of the time of my ap.
pearance, he was out of the way, and it was some hours before I
could get within its walls. However, the trial of my patience
was amply repaid by the pleasantness of my quarters; the
Ameen-i-Doulah's people brought the keys, and I soon found
myself in excellent apartments, overlooking parterres of flowers,
beautiful fountains, and delightfully shaded by towering plane-
trees.
According to the observations made by one of the British
officers now resident in Persia, Ispahan lies in latitude 32°40′24",
longitude 84° 18'. The origin of the city is not to be traced
with any certainty, but it is generally supposed to have arisen
from the ruins of Hecatompylos, the Parthian capital; while some
will have it to stand on the site of the Aspa, or Aspadana of
Ptolemy. But be this as it may, the situation of the city to-
MAGNIFICENCE OF ISPAHAN. . 407
pographically and centrically with regard to the empire, is
admirably adapted for that of a royal capital. The noble river
Zeinderood flows through it, the climate is salubrious, and the
country around capable of the most prolific cultivation. Indeed
we find in almost all accounts of Persia, that Ispahan,
from the first of its being named, is noted as a city of con-
sequence; but it was reserved for the renowned Shah Abbas
to raise it to its supreme height of royal magnificence, and to
render Ispahan the great emporium of the Asiatic world. During
his reign, nearly a million of people animated its busy streets, and
the equally flourishing peasantry of more than fourteen hundred
villages in its neighbourhood, supplied by their labour the markets
of this abundant.population. Its bazars were filled with merchan-
dise from every quarter of the globe, mingled with the rich bales
of its own celebrated manufactories. Industry, diligence, activity,
and business-like negociations, were seen and heard every where.
The caravansaries were crowded with merchants, and goods of
Europe and of Asia; while the court of the great Shah was
the resort of ambassadors from the proudest kingdoms, not
only of the East, but of the West. Travellers thronged thither
to behold its splendours, and to enjoy the gracious reception
bestowed by its monarch on the learned and ingenious of all
lands and religions. The renown of his camps attracted brave
volunteers from many a Christian country; and even the chivalry
of our own land, knights sworn to arms by our royal Elizabeth
herself, sought accessions of honours in the pavilions of Shah
Abbas. Magnificence to strangers, and munificence to his
subjects, seem to have been the leading characteristics of this
extraordinary prince. A devotee in his own faith, he was
tolerant to all others. His holy ancestry made him a saint, his
408 DESOLATION OF ISPAHAN.
gay temperament a man of pleasure. He performed pilgrimages on
foot; he endowed mosques with the splendour of palaces; his pa-
laces were the seats of legislature; his anderoon, the council of
arms; while his gardens, open to the people, resounded with fêtes
and revelling. Such was Ispahan under the sway of Abbas the First.
Such almost it continued during the reign of Abbas the Second.
But, whatever were its subsequent splendours, they were all extin-
guished by the merciless arms of its Afghan conquerors; and, hence
comes the different picture it presents this day, from that which I
have drawn. Its people are reduced to scarcely one-tenth of the just
computed numbers; the streets are every where in ruin; the bazars
silent and abandoned; the caravansaries equally forsaken; its
thousand villages hardly now counting two hundred; its palaces
solitary and forlorn; and the nocturnal laugh and song which used
to echo from every part of the gardens, now succeeded by the yells
of jackalls, and the howls of as famishing dogs. How would
the seer-spirit of our poet of Persia, Thomas Moore, have
apostrophised the shade of Shah Abbas, the lord of all these
departed festivities; had he been looking out that moonlight
night, as I did on the first of my sojourn in that vast and lonely
palace, on the deep solitude of those former gardens of pleasure
He would have re-peopled those silent glades, with the first of
the royal name, who made Ispahan the emporium of nations;
he would have seen him moving in life and splendour, through
those gay parterres, and all the city rejoicing in his smiles. He
would have reversed the vision in his mind, and beheld, and
painted it as his genius saw, the awful pageantry with which
this greatprince's last royal descendant, Shah Houssein, (for his son
was but the shadow of a king,) moved from that palace, in mourn-
ing weeds; walking through avenues of his perishing subjects,
GOVERNMENT OF ISPAHAN. 409
dying by famine, pestilence, and war, to lay his crown at the
feet of a proud conqueror: in which moment the glories of the
Sefi race, with the royal existence of Ispahan, and the indepen-
dence of Persia were no more. But the Jam-e-Jehan-numai, or
magic mirror of the universe, in which former poets read the
fate of the empire, must have recorded its recovery from the
yoke. And, in like manner, it may yet have to re-picture the
restoration of this once beautiful capital to all its faded honours.
The governments both of the city and district of Ispahan, are
in the hands of Hadjee Mahomed Hossein Khan, the Ameen-a-
Doulah, or second minister of His Majesty; and he fulfils his
duty in a way worthy the momentous trust. He has repaired
and re-colonised many of the deserted villages, encouraged
agriculture, and used similar means to populate the habitable
streets of the city, by promoting the old manufactories, and striv-
ing to attract commerce back to its ancient channels. His zeal has
already done much, and is likely to do more. Many of the neglected
caravansaries on the several roads, are re-established; while the
bazars are being put into a state worthy the rich deposits they once
protected, and may again. Indeed, all wears the face of good in-
tention on one side, with awakening hope on the other; and, should
security and industry ensue, a relative degree of prosperity cannot
be far behind. As one proof, since the department of Ispahan has
been under this judicious minister's management, it has produced
a larger sum to the crown than any other district in the royal
dominions. His Excellency's annual present to the King (which
is always made under consideration of the value of the govern-
ment possessed by the giver,) is never less than between six and
seven hundred thousand tomauns; but this amount covers the
whole tribute from the district; an immense sum at any rate.
VOL. I. 3 G
410 GREETING FROM THE NIZAM-A-DoulAH.
The minister, being obliged from his post at court to reside
much there, has nominated his son to be the Nizam-a-Doulah,
or deputy-governor; and the young representative does not
fall short of his father's zeal, in arresting the progress of ruin
in the palaces, gardens, mosques, and other public memorials of
the former magnificence of the city. -
May 26th. My quarters being in a part of the royal residence
which looked upon one of the most delightful divisions of the
gardens, and near to some fine buildings within their walls, I
was meditating a ramble amongst them, when a little train from
the Nizam-a-Doulah made their appearance to welcome me to
Ispahan. I had now been long enough in Persia to understand
the court ceremonies on such occasions, from the king to the
last order of his representatives. These persons were attended
by servants bearing trays, laden with various sorts of choice
sweetmeats and fruits; some of the latter being unripe plums,
an early offering of the year not very grateful to a northern
palate, though in high request in the East. Heaps of fresh
cucumbers added to the vernal show of the present; for, as
such, it was set down before me: a mission, which the servants
of great men in Persia are very alert in executing; custom having
established a kind of law, to present them a small gratuity for
what they bring; and strangers not being aware of the practice
with the natives, to proportion the largess to the present, gene-
rally suffer the imposition of giving double the value of the
donation produced. -
When my very polite visitors withdrew, for they had not
halted behind any of their countrymen in gratulatory eloquence,
I resumed my intention of the morning; and with Sedah Beg,
my invaluable gift from the Prince, set forth in a tour through
ROYAL PLEASURE-GROUNDS. 411
the Chahar Bagh. The royal domain which holds that title is a
very extensive tract, inclosed within four majestic walls; and di-
vided into gardens, with pleasure-grounds; each having a separate
palace, adapted to the seasons, or rather to the changing humour
of the royal planter, who called them the Hesht Beheste, or eight
paradises. The prevailing plan of them all, is that of long pa-
rallel walks, shaded by even rows of tall and umbrageous planes,
the celebrated Chinar-tree, of which the Persians are so fond,
and which grows here in great perfection. These are interspersed
with a variety of fruit-trees, and every kind of flowering shrub,
in full blow. Canals flow down the avenues in the same unde-
viating lines; and, generally, terminate in some large marble
basin, ornamented with sparkling fountains, of square or octagon
shapes. Formal as this may seem, and therefore the reverse of
picturesque, the effect was amazingly grand; the number of
avenues, and canals, forming so extended a sylvan scene, that,
when viewed from any point, it appeared a vast wood, with
thousands of brilliant rills gliding amongst its thickets. And
through this wood we descried, at various openings, the dif.
ferent palaces which belonged to each of these Hesht Beheste,
or eight paradises. They appeared glittering, at the bottom of
the green aisles, and amongst the foliage, like so many gay pa-
vilions raised by enchantment; but when we drew nearer, the
spell dissolved. We found gorgeous structures, indeed, but of
too heavy and discordant a taste, to be of such spiritual archi-
tecture. A close inspection reminded me of a cumbrous style
of building much in vogue about a hundred and fifty years ago,
in Holland and England; a monstrous union of the Grecian with
the Saracenic taste: and here it was loaded with every species
of external ornament, in gilding, carving, painting, and looking-
3 G 2
412 - - THE PALACE OF FORTY PILLARS.
glass. Prodigious quantities of the latter decoration being in-
laid, in a thousand shapes and places, over almost every part of
these structures, and all shining at once under the rays of the
sun, the dazzled sight seeing nothing but indistinct forms of
splendour, may excuse the ejaculation of admiring wonder with
which, I confess, I hailed the first view of these extraordinary
mansions. t
The Chehel Setoon, or Palace of Forty Pillars, was the favourite
residence of the latter Sefi kings; and certainly, when we turned
into the grand avenue, and the palace broke upon us, I thought
description was put to silence. Indeed, words can seldom give
any thing like a just idea of very intricate objects of sight; but
for the satisfaction of my readers, curious in comparing the taste
of times and countries, I shall attempt some detail of this Per-
sian Versailles. The exhaustless profusion of its splendid ma-
terials, reflected, not merely their own golden or crystal lights
on each other, but all the variegated colours of the garden ; so
that the whole surface seemed formed of polished silver and
mother-of-pearl, set with precious stones. In short, as I said
before, the scene might well have appeared an Eastern poet's
dream, or some magic vision, in the wonderful tales of an
Arabian Night.
When we drew near, I found the entire front of the building
open to the garden ; the roof being sustained by a double range
of columns, the height of which measured eleven Persian yards,
(a Persian yard being forty-four inches ;) hence they rose up-
wards of forty feet. Each column shoots up from the united
backs of four lions, of white marble; and the shafts of the
columns rising from these extraordinary bases, were covered
with arabesque patterns, and foliages, in looking-glass, gilding,
THE PALACE OF FORTY PILLARS. 413
and painting; some twisting spirally; others winding in golden
wreaths, or running into lozenges, stars, connecting circles, and
I know not what intricacies of fancy and ingenious workmanship.
The ceiling was equally iris-hued, with flowers, fruits, birds,
butterflies, and even couching tigers, in gold, silver, and paint-
ing, amidst hundreds of intermingling compartments of glitter-
ing mirror. At some distance, within this open chamber, are
two more pillars of similar taste to the range; and from their
capitals springs a spacious arch, forming the entrance to a vast
interior saloon; in which all the caprices and labours and cost of
Eastern magnificence, have been lavished to an incredible pro-
digality. - The pillars, the walls, the cieling, might be a study
for ages, for designers in these gorgeous labyrinthine ornaments.
The floors of both apartments were covered with the richest
carpets, of the era in which the building was constructed, the
age of Shah Abbas, and were as fresh as if just laid down;
there needs no other proof of the purity of the climate. From
one angle of the interior chamber, two low folding-doors opened
into a very spacious and lofty hall, the sides of which were hung
with pictures of various dimensions; most of them descriptive
of convivial scenes; and the doors, and pannels of the room near
the floor, being also emblazoned with the same merry-making
subjects, fully declared the purpose of the place. But a very
odd addition was made to the ornaments of the wall. Little
recesses spotted its lower range, taking the shapes of bottles,
flaggons, goblets, and other useful vessels; all equally indispen-
sable, in those days, at a Persian feast. Very different from
the temperance, which now presides there; and, how directly
the reverse of the abstemiousness and its effects, that marked the
board of the great Cyrus! -
414 PICTURES IN THE PALACE.
Six pictures of a very large size, occupy the walls of this
banqueting-chamber, from the ceiling, to within eight or ten
feet of the floor. Four of these represent royal entertainments,
given to different ambassadors during the reigns of Shah Abbas
the First, alias, the Great; of his grandson, Abbas the Second;
and of Shah Thamas, or Tamasp, as it is sometimes written.
The two other pictures are battle-pieces. Every one of these
different subjects are pourtrayed with the most scrupulous
exactness, as far as the still life could be copied. The golden
vases, and other vessels in the banqueting scenes, with the
musical instruments, and every detail in the dresses of the
persons present, are painted with an almost Flemish precision.
Wine (the peculiar bane of the Sefi race,) appears the great
vehicle of enjoyment at these feasts; an air of carouse being in
all the figures, and the goblets disposed with the most anacreontic
profusion. The guests are also entertained with a variety of
dancing-girls, whose attitudes and costumes sufficiently show the
second vice of the times, and explain the countries whence they
COIſle, -
The warlike pictures are defined with equal nicety; the trap-
pings of the horses, the arms of the heroes, and even to the
blood-red wounds of the combatants. One of the battles re-
presents the troops of the valiant Shah Tamasp the First, (the
son of Shah Ismail, the beginner of the Sefi dynasty,) engaging
the troops of Sultan Soliman. The Persian King is depicted in
the act of cleaving a grim Janisary “from head to saddle-bow;”
and the weapon having nearly reached the last point of its aim,
the artist has marked its dreadful journey down the body of the
man, with a long red streak, following the royal blade. But,
nevertheless, the indivisible Turk continues to sit bolt upright,
INTEMPERANCE OF THE SEFI KINGS. 415
firm in his stirrups, and as life-like in visage, as the most con-
quering hero in the piece.
Ridiculous as the execution of these pictures may be in some
respects, they are invaluable as registers of the manners of the
times, of the general aspect of the persons they are designed to
commemorate, and of the costumes of the several nations as-
sembled at the feasts, or engaged in the battles. Large turbans,
full mustachios, and smooth-shaven chins, were then the fashion
in Persia; which has now given place to the high, narrow, black
cap of sheep-skin, and the long bushy beard; the latter ap-
pendage having been a costume of the empire many centuries
before. t , \
The sixth large picture is of more modern date, and a very
sorry specimen of the art indeed. It is meant to represent a
victory of Nadir Shah's, over the sovereign of Delhi; and was
painted during that usurper's reign. All the smaller pictures
pourtray scenes of the most licentious revelry. It is not neces-
sary to attribute the worst of these to the reign of Shah Abbas ;
for though he was addicted to wine and wassail, as extravagantly,
perhaps, as any of his most intemperate European guests, yet
we do not find that his personal conduct, in other respects, par-
took of the open, wanton libertinism, which stained the lives of
most of his descendants. To the profligate taste, then, of his
grandson Shah Sefi, I would attribute the very disgraceful me-
morials of the manners of the times. But had his artists, and
their successors, pourtrayed the sanguinary scenes, which were
also the effects of these drunken revels; himself, his ancestors, and
his posterity, would have been seen committing deeds of mad
inebriation, which make the murder of Clytus a venial crime; and
must have proved, by such visible warning, the most decisive
416 CRUELTIES OF THE AFGHANS.
of all decrees, against the dangerous impulses of wine, in this
inflammatory climate.
At a considerable distance from the Chehel Setoon, to the left
of the gardens, stands the winter palace, containing the harem,
royal arsenal, and stables; where Ashreft, the second tyrant of
the Afghan invaders, held his short but cruel sway over Persia;
and which he stained with the blood of its native prince, the
captive Shah Houssain. At the time the horrid deed was com-
mitted, the arms of the renowned Kouli Khan (who was after-
wards the equally infamous usurper Nadir Shah) had prevailed
over the Afghans; and having rescued his country, he made a
feint of restoring Shah Thamas, the son of the murdered king,
and the last of the race of the great Shah Abbas. When the
young monarch walked through these courts and these chambers,
and he saw the desolation that had been made of their ancient
splendour, and beheld the traces of the many horrors which had
spotted them with the blood of his family, he burst into tears;
and would not be persuaded to rejoice in what was restored,
while memory pressed so heavily on him the recollection of so
much that had been lost. In one of the interior apartments,
to which he retired alone to give way to his affliction unnoticed,
he was met by a female slave in the meanest dress, who suddenly
clasped him in her arms; a few words told him it was his mother.
She had disguised herself as a slave, when the Afghans first
took possession of the capital; and had not only worn the habit,
but performed the lowest offices for seven years ; to escape, by
remaining unknown, the ignominious fate of the other Sefi
ladies; and to watch over, unsuspected, the perilous captivity of
her royal husband. - -
Close to the winter palace, stands a superb structure lately
PERSIAN PAINTING. 417
erected by the Nizam-a-Doulah, for the reception of his present
Majesty, Futteh Ali Shah, should he ever honour this capital
with his presence. The general architecture of the building is
in the same style with that of its neighbouring palaces, but
executed in a more simple and light, and therefore more elegant
taste. The internal decorations are formed on the usual ground-
work of flowers, and gold, and pieces of mirror; but all are
disposed here, with a design and a grace, which conspicuously
show a great advancement in the true principles of ornamental
invention. -
The hall of audience exhibits a profusion of paintings; and
amongst them, several of the King, but resembling his fine
countenance in nothing but the patriarchal length of his beard.
One of the largest pictures, which occupies nearly the whole of
one side of the hall, presents him as the most prominent object,
and attended by, most of his sons. The opposite wall is covered
with a canvass of the same size, representing a hunt, and the
same royal personage discharging his bow at a flying antelope.
It instantly recalled to my recollection a magnificent picture
painted by Mr. West, the President of the Royal Academy of
England, on a similar subject; one of the kings of Scotland
engaged in the chase of the stag, but in the moment of coming-in
at the death, he is entangled with the wounded animal, who,
with the shaft in his side, tramples on the fallen monarch. The
stag, with the big drop of the last struggle in his effulgent eye,
his breast panting, his tongue hanging from exhaustion out of
his mouth, his foot on the body of the prostrate James; the
King's awful countenance, arming himself for the fate that seems
inevitable; the dogs clinging to the stag; the horsemen press-
ing forward to their sovereign's rescue ! Never, since I first
VOL. I. 3 H
418 STATE OF THE ART IN PERSIA.
looked on the efforts of human art, to represent a living, a
breathing scene on canvass, did I behold one so animated, so
moving, of the story it would relate. But the remembrance,
then, of that memorable stag-hunt, did not arise from any
resemblance in the pictures, but from their direct dissimilitude.
In the hunting-piece of Futteh Ali Shah, groups of courtiers,
mounted and caparisoned, stray over the surface to all points,
east, west, north, and south ; something in the same way of
the sieges, battles, and processions, stampt upon old-fashioned
pocket-handkerchiefs we see in the possession of the common
people in England, where the various actors gallop over mountains,
walls, rivers, castles, nay, into the very sky, without any regard
to time, place, or natural variation of distance. This picture
was quite on the same model; the horses and huntsmen, on
ground near a mile from the Shah, and farther towards the
horizon, were in size much larger than either His Majesty or his
steed. A production of the graphic art, so much inferior to those
I had seen of the Sefi age, that I could not but be surprised to
find the progress of taste in the lower orders of ornament, and
its deterioration in this the highest range. All these pictures,
both of old and modern times, are painted without regard to
light and shade. A peculiarity of eastern artists, hard to be
explained; for the sun in these countries being seldom obscured
by clouds, the shadows from prominent objects are necessarily
very strong, and the effects being constantly before the eye, we
cannot but wonder how the artists miss seeing the advantage of
such opposition, in their sketches after nature. Besides this
defect, as I have just hinted, they are equally blind to the gradual
diminution of receding objects; in short, to the whole science of
perspective: and thus, scales being over both eyes, fond as the
THE ROYAL PLEASURE GROUNDs. 419
natives are of painting, while they continue so obtuse to the
most obvious lessons of nature, the art must ever remain a daub
of extravagant heterogeneous subjects.
In the evening, attended by some of the governor's people,
who were appointed to attend me through the town, I rode
towards the suburb of Julpha, to deliver the letters I had taken
charge of from the metropolitan of Eitch-mai-adzen, to the
Armenian Bishop of this Persian district. Julpha lies on the
southern side of the Zeinderood; and, now, is connected with
the town by ruins only, long tracks of which spread between the
bank of the river and the few habitable remains of that once
opulent suburb. In our ride thither from my own romantic,
and almost as deserted lodging, we passed through the most
charming parts of the Chahar Bagh; taking our course along its
alleys of unequalled plane trees, stretching their broad canopies
over our heads, their shade being rendered yet more delightful
by the canals, reservoirs, and fountains, which cooled the air,
and reflected the flickering light through their branches. Thick-
ets of roses and jessamine, with clustering parterres of poppies,
and other flowers, embanked the ground; while the deep-green
shadows from the trees, the perfume, the freshness, the soft
gurgling of the waters, and the gentle rustle of the breeze,
combining with the pale golden rays of the declining sun,
altogether formed an evening scene, as tranquillizing as it was
beautiful. There was one impediment, however, to enjoying it
at perfect ease; but which, perhaps, added to the picturesque,
and, certainly, harmonized only too well with the strange solitari-
ness of these seldom trodden paradises; it was the decayed state
of the roads; their former fine pavement being broken up in so
many places, as to render it unsafe to attempt riding over them.
3 H 2
420 BRIDGE OVER THE ZEINDEROOD.
But my horse was now an experienced traveller, and, after the
first stumble and recovery, we managed the remainder of the
way very well. Notwithstanding this utter neglect of all the
paths through this extensive domain, if an old tree chance to
fall from age or accident, the governor instantly has its place
filled up with a new plant; a precaution which must long main-
tain the sylvan pre-eminence of Ispahan. -
Having passed through the Chahar Bagh, we reached one of
the very fine bridges which cross the Zeinderood. They were
all the work of Shah Abbas ; built of brick, and on the same
plan ; being perfectly level, presenting the appearance of Roman
aqueducts. Each bridge is formed of a long succession of small
arches, over which the causeway is laid; and on that run two lines
of arcades, on each side of the bridge; affording a comfortable
shelter for foot-passengers, and leaving the open road between
for horsemen and cattle. -
At this season, the river is very low; flowing through its
wide, stoney bed, in two or three narrow channels; each not
exceeding thirty or forty feet in width, and so shallow as to be
fordable in a hundred places. The chief cause of so amazing a
decrease in a body of waters which, formerly, poured in so full a
stream under these numerous arches, is the great quantities
which are drawn off for the daily use of the rice-fields lately
planted all around Ispahan; and the cultivation of which seems
likely to supersede entirely its once abundant nurseries for cot-
ton and silk. w . . . . ... -
We crossed the bridge, and entered Julpha. Nothing can be
said more expressive of the condition of this formerly populous
mart, than that its fate is an abstract of what I saw in Ispahan.
Its ten thousand inhabitants have diminished to three hundred
JULPHA. 421.
wretched families; dwindling every year, both in respectability
and numbers. Its thirteen churches, whose pomp and riches
excited the envy, and thence, the destroying arm of their Ma-
homedan neighbours, are reduced to two only ; and those, dark,
dirty, and dismal; the mean, and even ragged, decorations of
their altars, connecting too well with the general air of squalid
misery, which prevails over the whole district of this now ex-
piring colony.
The suburb of Julpha owes its origin to Shah Abbas; it having
been founded by him for a body of Armenians, whom he trans-
planted hither from their own country. The chief part of Ar-
menia had long been under the dominion of the Turks; and
during the wars between the Persian monarch and the Sultan,
it suffered dreadfully between the contending powers. Abbas
destroyed many of its cities; and, in the manner of his predeces-
sors, brought their inhabitants into his own land; but not with the
old-fashioned barbarous design, to compel them to become Ma-
- homedans, and make them slaves. He understood the commer-
cial talents of the Armenians; and, comprehending the advan-
tages to which he might turn it in Persia, he erected towns and
villages for his new subjects, and scattered them throughout the
empire. The inhabitants of the opulent town of Julfa on the
Araxes, (the ruins of which I have noticed at the beginning of
this volume,) having particularly conciliated his favour, by ex-
pelling their Turkish garrison, at sight of his troops, and opening
their gates to receive him; the conqueror treated them as friends,
but would not leave such valuable subjects behind, to still enrich
his enemy. Hence he demolished the town, and brought the
inhabitants to Persia; where he stationed them in this great
suburb, naming it Julpha; a memorial of his victory, his clemency,
422 HISTORY OF JULPHA.
his wisdom, and of their origin. He granted them, in common
with all their brethren, his new subjects, a full toleration of their
religion; permission to erect churches, with all their ordinances;
and, as merchants, endowed them with many valuable privileges.
This occurred about the year 1603; and, for more than a cen-
tury afterwards, the colony continued to thrive in arts, manu-
factures, and trade. The city kept pace with this prosperity;
and, it is not to be doubted, that to these very Armenians,
industrious, rich, speculative, and liberal, Ispahan owed its great
commercial character; and, consequently, its wealth, magni-
ficence, and redoubled power. It is well known, that where
trade most flourishes, there the country is most populous, richest,
happiest; and has the greatest sway with the nations. But as
trade will not flourish where its profits are not secured to the
manufacturer and the merchant, no despotic government can
be really a rich one, and by consequence powerful, that does
not enact laws to defend the properties of the subject, even
against itself. Abbas the Great did this, in the privileges he
granted to the Armenians; and the happy result was manifest.
From that time, until the deplorable feebleness of Shah Hous-
sein, at the period of the Afghan invasion, caused that misled
monarch to desert them and himself, these merchants were of
the first advantage to the state. Indeed, the conduct of this
especial colony, throughout the whole of the protracted and
dreadful siege of Ispahan and its suburbs, by Mahmoud the
leader of the Afghans, was becoming a brave and noble people;
and would lead us to think, that had the unfortunate Persian
monarch, at one time trusted the defence of his capital to these
grateful and intrepid men, it is most probable Ispahan would have
been saved; and not an Afghan returned to his country, to relate
HISTORY OF JULPHA. 423
the discomfiture of his master. But the councils of the King were
filled with weakness and treachery; he was betrayed in every
step he took; the people of the city were consigned to famine,
or the sword; and the suburb of Julpha, deprived by these evil
counsellors of its arms, was abandoned, with all its inhabitants,
to be the first prey in the bloody and rapacious hands of the
Afghans. Death, then, slew to the right and to the left; and
as the noblest and the best always throw themselves in front
in these assaults, few survived, of a character to maintain the
good old name of the Armenian merchant of Julpha. In vain we
look amongst these ruins of a town, and its people, for any
thing like the true spirit of commerce; a miserable principle of
chicane, and over-reaching, appears in every transaction ; and,
as a man can seldom cheat any but a fool more than once, the
wretched trafficker of his honour and his conscience is soon
left to starve; or, if he amass money by these base methods,
he spends it as worthlessly, as he gained it unworthily. But this
vast change in the respectability of a Persian Armenian, since
the fall, or extinction of the house of Sefi, is not to be attributed
solely to their depopulation and sufferings under the Afghans.
None of the succeeding native princes, have attempted to restore
these grafted subjects to their former useful rank in the empire;
and persons of delegated authority, too often increase the evils
of neglect, by those of oppression. The ways and means of
such restoration, and its amply repaying consequences, may
easily be learnt from recurring to the conduct of Shah Abbas, -
at the time he transplanted this industrious people into his
kingdom. Some, who had saved themselves from pillage by a
judicious surrender, brought substance along with them to
continue their various manufactures and traffic: but to those
424 HISTORY OF JULPHA.
who had lost their capital, or who required an increase to pro-
mote wider speculations, to these the generous and politic
monarch opened his own treasury, and liberally lent to them,
on a reasonable interest, such sums as were necessary to the
prosperity of their business. Thus trusted, supported, and
guaranteed in the fair enjoyment of what they gained, the
honour of their transactions kept pace with their affluence; and
an Armenian merchant, in the time of Abbas the Great, was
considered the most efficient agent between Asia and Europe,
for the mutual transmission of rare goods, and their value in
gold. In short, he might justly claim the title, that in civilised
countries is esteemed the most honourable character in society.
He was, what the merchants of Venice and Genoa were ; what
the merchants of England are ; in every respect, the gentleman.
But the passage of a hundred years, over the desolation of Julpha,
and the forgotten tombs of its faithful defenders, has so obli-
terated all these recollections, that the despised descendants of
the powerful factors of Shah Abbas, dare not raise their eyes
with any hope of notice from his august successors; and they,
under certain impressions, which the light of knowledge only
can do away, have no idea of the remaining value of a mine,
which, though choked up with ruin and rubbish, has only to be
opened as heretofore by a liberal hand and a confiding spirit,
to show the streams of gold yet in its veins. But, on the reverse,
the Armenians of Persia, throughout, are a poor, doubted, and
contemned race; and contempt, usually engendering the tra-
versing tricks it supposes, the character of the man has sunk
with his fortunes, and estimation in the public mind. Besides
being cheats in the business of life, these once respectable
people are now sunk to the lowest depths, in the loathsome
DEGRADED STATE QF ARMENIAN MOTHERs. 425
vices of drunkenness and gluttony; even their women partak-
ing these habits to the most disgusting excess. But a worse
trait is yet to be mentioned. In place of the delicate sense of
female purity, which made the chaste matrons of Julpha expire
on the bosoms of their virgin daughters, before they could see
them borne to the arms of expecting princes, their Afghan
conquerors; the sordid mothers, whom we now meet in the
Armenian suburbs of the cities in Persia, nourish their female
children to violation ; and sell them, at the tender ages of twelve
or thirteen, to the embraces of any man who will pay the price.
With this view, they watch the arrival of every European ; and
having made the necessary enquiries respecting the length of his
purse, and probable sojourn in the country, few days elapse
before his private ear is sought by successions of mothers, so-
liciting his approbation of one of their daughters. Should he be
inclined to comply with the too common fashion in the East,
and select a girl, the bargain is made by her parents. They
first demand the price of her pretended services to them; then
settle what her protector is to allow her for clothing, &c. while
she lives with him ; and what sum he is to leave with her, when
he quits the country, to purchase her a respectable husband
amongst her own people, should she be inclined to take one.
The children which spring from these temporary unions, are
numerous throughout the country, and in a lamentable state.
The father seldom has it in his power to transplant more than one
or two of them to Europe; where, if denied the advantages of le-
gitimacy, they would be brought up to virtue and respectability
at least. But, too frequently, the men who give them being, have
neither the means, nor the inclination, to remove the fruit of a
connection, they regard as an affair of mere passant le tems,
VOL. I. • 3 I
426 SUPINENESS OF THE ARMENIAN CLER GY.
from the common lot of so many other hapless creatures in the
same circumstances. Thus, these easy fathers, having given
the woman the stipulated parting douceur, with all the compla–
cent carelessness of having paid a debt no more to be heard of,
quit the country, and abandon the children they would have
cherished with anxiety and pride, had they been born in wed-
lock, to the most wretched and degrading fates. When the
girls are marketable, they are sold by their mothers to the like
prostitution that gave them their miserable existence; and the
boys are too often exposed to destinies yet more disgraceful.
I do not discuss the often agitated question, of whether it be a
crime, or merely a pleasure, with sometimes a disagreeable issue,
that leads to the effect of bringing children into the world, thus
excluded, like wretches out of cast, from the name, the family,
and even the land of their fathers; with the additional evil of
having no claim to the protection of any country whatever;
while they lie open to every indignity, every misery, which the
contempt and caprice of the country of their mother can cast
upon them. These consequences may answer the question; for
surely, no man, when he seriously thinks, can doubt the moral
crime of abandoning the offspring, which he knows are his
own, like the dropping of the ostrich's eggs, to the desert where
they fell. -
In these cases, we might expect the Armenian clergy would
interfere; both to prevent the formation of such illicit connec-
tions, and, when formed, to see that justice should be done the
innocent progeny. But they are, too often, worse than supine ;
some way or other, rather encouraging than discountenancing
this practice, for the sake of certain emoluments (I know not
how gained) which they derive from the illegally contracting
STATE OF THE FRANGY ILLEGITIMATE CHILDREN. 427
parties. Thus does ignorance of their duty, in some of the
ministers of the church, and a shameless disregard of it in
others, bring the Christian religion into disrespect, both with
their own people, and the Mahomedans. For the Persians,
though they allow themselves, from their own law, the privilege
of concubinage, are yet aware that the code of no Christian
sect grants any such licence; and when they see Europeans
joining these Armenians, in not only breaking the ordinances of
their faith, but adding to that offence a breach of the law of
nature, by deserting the offspring of their temporary engage-
ments, the contempt of the more just Mahomedans is the inevit-
able consequence. But these unhappy children of European, un-
christian parents, are likely to have a generous friend in one
illustrious bosom at least. And, I doubt not, that the charity
which that admirable Prince and his posterity may show to these
forlorn ones, will be repaid by a fidelity, and moral usefulness
on their parts, to draw down blessings on his name and race.
The persons of the present Armenians of Persia, neither in
male nor female, possess any thing of the dignity, or sweetness,
which marks their Persian neighbours. Neither do they show
the open brightness of countenance, which attracts in the Cir-
cassian ; nor the brave, thoughtful air, that interests in the
Georgian. So lamentably has neglect quenched their spirit,
and their consequent self-debasements degraded the aspect of
their forms and features, they could not be known for the same
race whose ancestors sat at the same board with Shah Abbas.
The costume of the men is that generally worn by the Per-
sians. But the women differ considerably in theirs, from the
fashions of the Mahomedan ladies. The Armenians bind their
heads with silk handkerchiefs of various colours, the ends falling
3 I 2
428 COSTUME OF THE ARMENIANS.
loose down the back; and under this sort of head-mantle they
wear another kerchief of white linen, which passes behind the
ears, over the chin, and hangs down on the breast. When they
go out, this piece of drapery is occasionally drawn up over the
mouth, leaving nothing of the face to be seen but the eyes, and
the too often very floridly shining nose. A kind of jacket
reaches nearly to the knee, made of different sorts of stuff, and
enriched with lace and embroidery, according to the wealth of
the husband. A pair of rather tight trowsers, of a flowered vel-
vet material, trimmed also ; with a fine shawl round the waist,
usually completes the dress of an Armenian lady. But some-
times, old women and children wear the ancient national girdle;
namely, a broad belt ornamented with knobs and buttons, and
clasped in front by an oval piece of silver, of great size and
weight, and heavily embossed. The sheet or chadre, with which
they envelope themselves when going abroad, is white. In
summer, their feet are naked; in winter, covered by a sock.
They seldom adopt the walking boot of the Persian ladies;
which is yellow, of the Hessian shape, and reaches half-way up
the leg. The children of both sexes dress in the same style as
their parents; only with this addition, the caps of the girls are
ornamented with rows of ducats and tomauns.
The marriages of the Armenians are scenes of the grossest
carousal. Their gluttony is enormous ; and pork being the
favourite meat, their villages swarm with herds of swine. But
all solemnities, whether joyous or mournful, afford occasions to
them for eating and drinking. During the fast of Lent, they
annually visit the graves of their relations and friends. And,
as one of the articles of their belief is, that “the souls of the de-
parted rest somewhere in the middle region of Heaven, till the
CUSTOMS AND RELIGION OF THE ARMENIANS. 429
9.
day of doom,” the survivors burn incense and lights upon the
tombs, offering up prayers for their peaceful repose. At the
head of every grave-stone over the bodies of Georgian or Arme-
nian Christians, we always find a hollow, cut in the stone, for
the reception of this burning perfume. These funeral remem-
brances do not cease till the anniversary of our Lord's Ascension;
when the whole religious rites of the season terminate in a
welcome and abundant feast. Wine flows like water, in liba-
tions to the memory of the deceased; while shouts of revelry
mingle with their cries and lamentations. The women always
bear their part in these anomalous orgies of Bacchus, and the
angel of death ; as frightful a union, as ever could come into
the heads of gross-witted men, to bring together.
The chief peculiarity in the faith of these people, is founded
on a particular doctrine respecting the divine and human nature
of our Saviour; which was first promulgated, about the middle
of the fifth century, by Eutyches, a monk of Constantinople;
and, afterwards, industriously propagated by a Syrian, named
James. The hierarchy of this church is in the same order as
that of Russia; and its few monastic establishments are under
the same rule, that of St. Basil. But, about two centuries before
these Eutychian doctrines were heard of, Christianity was
preached in Armenia by the great Apostle of its church, St. Gre-
gory, who converted the northern part of the country. He was its
first Bishop; and also founded the cathedral of Eitch-mai-adzen,
near the foot of Ararat, on a spot where he declared he had
beheld the Divine Presence. Hence it takes its name, Place of
the Divine Vision. But when the schism of Eutyches agitated
the church, and the poor Armenians were driven about by the
“higher powers,” as well as by “every wind of doctrine,” the
430 - THE SUPERIOR AT JULPHA.
great name of Gregory was almost forgotten by them, and his
patriarchal chair abandoned for an ecclesiastical establishment
at Erivan. The power of the Armenian church remained there
for several centuries, till circumstances compelled its removal;
and then the memory of the good saint revived, on the transla-
tion of that metropolitan seat back to his sacred structure on
the plain of Ararat. The Armenians calculate the recurrence
of the Christian fasts, and feasts, in a way that brings them
eighteen days later than the falling of ours.
I have freely remarked on the present state of these people in
this country, both as to clergy and laity, and with reference to
their decreased consideration in the respect of the natives. But
though the observations point generally, they are not meant to
be received universally ; there being some highly estimable
characters throughout the empire, both in the Armenian church
and amongst its people. Indeed, many of the latter, even in
the humblest stations, instead of following the gross gratifi-
cations and vile traffickings of their own flesh and blood pursued
by their debased brethren, bear the changed fortunes of their
nation with a manly patience, and soberly and steadily prosecute -
their various callings. *
The superior of the holy establishment at Julpha, received me
with all the respect and cordiality I might have expected from
the letter of his patriarch. But the scene of my welcome, being
amongst the shattered walls of all that had once sustained the
consequence of the colony, few but melancholy subjects of con-
versation could be suggested; and, with musings very different
from those which pleasingly engaged my mind when turning
from the hoary spires of Eitch-mai-adzen, erect and bright, in
the sublime solitude of mount Ararat, I remounted my horse at
RUINS OF ISPAHAN. - 431
these mouldering gates, and bade adieu to the venerable prelate
of ruined Julpha. * .
The feroshes, or government-servants who had been appointed
to attend me, varied the route back to my residence, by con-
ducting me through the most interesting parts of the city of
Ispahan, which were yet in the dilapidated state left by the
Afghan devastation. These dreary tracks were numerous;
strangely contrasting with the extensive rows of newly-planted
plane-trees, whose well-spread branches, full of leaves of the
most youthful and freshest green, promised a luxuriance of
growth hereafter, that might rival the proudest avenues of Shah
Abbas. But the prospect of their being enjoyed, in like or in
any manner, is not so fair. From one end of the city to the
other, under these avenues old and new, through the gardens,
and amidst their most delightful “paradises” of shade and
fountain, I saw hardly a human creature moving, besides those
who were incidentally engaged on the public works under the
pay of the governor. Trade being almost lost to the city, and
the royal residence entirely removed from it, there is no motive
for the influx of profitable inhabitants, or for the active industry
of those already there. In short, if Ispahan continue another
fifty years so totally abandoned of its sovereign's personal notice,
future governors can have no stimulus for the re-erection of
buildings, which must remain untenanted; for the repair of
bazars, on which the grass must ever grow ; for the preservation
of gardens, whose sweetness blooms and dies without an eye to
behold or lament the change; and the natural effects must
ensue: Ispahan will become a total ruin, amidst the saddest of
wildernesses; beauty, in the blossom of youth, and the fulness
of maturity, left to decay and to perish, from the progress of
432 ISPAHAN.
neglect alone. The trees, to be sure, must always be valuable to
the state, even when the city is no more. And during my
intercourse with the Nizam-a-Doulah, who seemed to regard
the restoration of the old capital with the most liberal views, I
had much pleasure in paying him more than a Persian com-
pliment, while remarking on the fine wood with which he was
filling the desolated tracts of the town. -
My quarters being so near the Maidan Shah, afforded me
many opportunities to walk thither on foot, and gratify my
curiosity by examining it at my leisure. This vast square was
formerly one of the chief ornaments of Ispahan ; enriched with
shops, where every commodity of luxury and splendid manufac-
ture were exposed to sale. Here, also, were the troops exercised,
and the nobility exhibited their Asiatic tournaments, before
their sovereign. In the centre of each side of this immense
area, stands some edifice remarkable for grandeur or for cha-
racter. In the north-west, we find the great gate, or rather
tower of entrance to the bazar ; on which, in old times, stood
the celebrated clock of Ispahan. The south-eastern side of the
quadrangle shows the Mesched Shah, a superb mosque, which
Shah Abbas built and dedicated to Mehedi, one of the twelve
Imaums. On the north-east, is the mosque of Looſt Ullah ;
and on the south-west, the Ali Kapi, or gate of Ali, forms a
majestic parallel to the bazar porch on the opposite side. The
length of the square, may be about 2,600 feet; its breadth 700.
Each face presents a double range of arches, the longest range
amounting to eighty-six, and the shortest to thirty. At a
few paces from these arcades, we find a constant supply of water,
running through a canal of black marble, and opening into a
variety of basins of a similar material, full of the same refreshing
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ISPAHAN. . 433
element; and rendered doubly grateful by the close shade of
the noble trees, which shelter the cheering beverage from the
heating rays of the sun. -
The Sefi, or Ali Kapi Gate, is a building of considerable
elevation, presenting, probably, the most perfect piece of fine
brick-work to be found in the Persian empire. It is divided
into several stories over the great entrance, and the flights of
steps which conduct to them are formed of the most beautiful
variegated porcelain. The first flight leads to a large chamber
over the gate, open on all sides but one; the roof of which is
sumptuously gilt and carved, and supported by eighteen lofty
octagonal pillars; now in a faded state, but formerly richly
emblazoned with gold, and other brilliant decorations, con-
formable to the splendid remains in the rest of the building.
In the middle of the floor, is a large marble square cistern and
fountain ; both of which drew their waters, by means of ma-
chinery, from the canal below. *
On the side of this spacious Mirador, (for so we may call it, as
it looked out in almost every direction,) which is nearest to the
balustrade facing the Maidan, a raised platform marks the spot
on which the great Shah Abbas used to place his royal seat;
and thence review his chivalry, galloping and skirmishing
beneath; or, in something of the Roman style, witness the combats
of wild and ferocious animals. I say Roman, but the “lions'
den” of Darius the Mede, sufficiently shows that such pastimes
were in vogue in Persia, long before Rome had set the example.
One of the more modern sports under the Sefi race, was that of
the nobility displaying their address in shooting at an object
fixed on the top of a high pole, (like the popinjay of our
ancestors;) and which pole, once the cynosure of so many anxious
VOL. I. - 3 K
434 - "THE MIRADOR.
eyes, yet remains in the Maidan Shah, lonely and disregarded.
Were it in any place of England, after so.long a time of neglect,
we should find the stem moss-covered, and the dank grass at its
foot; but in this pure climate, all appears fresh, and unimpaired,
till the hand of man sullies its fair surface. — A sort of perpetuity
in the existence of inanimate objects, after the living beings who
constructed them are entirely passed away, which produces a
much sadder impression on the spectator, than when viewing
the age-marked ruins of our climates; whose mouldering ap-
pearance of decay seems hastening to join them to the dust of
the founders. Whilst these Persian sports of the sixteenth and
seventeenth centuries, so like those of our own festivities of the
same period, were going on with the equestrian orders; the
lower ranks took their share of May-game, on the same ground,
and under the same royal eye; wrestling, tumbling, and exhibit-
ing a variety of other feats of strength and agility.
A saloon opened from the Mirador, on the side where alone
it was not all window ; and this interior chamber might vie
in splendour with the utmost magnificence I had seen in any
of the palaces of the Heste Beheste. Besides the ornaments of
gold, and mirror, and arabesque wreathing, its walls were hung
with groups of dancing-girls, of every country and action.
Amongst other pictures, were the whole length portraits of
a lady and gentleman, in the European habits of the age of
James I. or his son, our first Charles; probably the production
of some artist in the suite of the Holstein ambassadors; or, more
likely, the portraits of Sir Robert and Lady Shirley, who re-
sided at the Sefi court during the reign of James; and, in fact,
died here: but where buried, memory at present does not bear
any record.
SHAH SEVUND. 435
On ascending the second flight of stairs, we found ourselves
in a range of small rooms, so numerous, that they appeared
endless. The walls of many were spotted all over from top to
bottom with the little recesses I have described before, in the
shapes of bottles, flagons, goblets, &c.; and the whole suite
exhibited, besides these receptacles for immediate refreshment,
a thousand notices that these chambers were the retiring-places
of the king, and his knight companions, for the most unreserved
recreation of themselves after the fatigues of the lists below.
We know, from historical testimony, as well as oral information,
that the great Abbas had a set of nobles about him, bearing a
similar title to the above. When he first mounted the throne,
he found his regal authority continually thwarted by the
aristocratic pride of a high order of chiefs, who called themselves
heads of the Kuzal Bashi, or Golden Tribes; and, to counter-
poise their weight in the state and the royal armies, he formed
a band or tribe, which he named Shah Sevund, or the Kings
Friends; and invited brave men of all other tribes, to enrol
themselves under that banner, as his especial body-guard,
counsellors, and board-companions. Above ten thousand of
the noblest names in Persia, were stampt with avidity on this
chivalric roll; the heroes it registered, honoured their title
during the monarch's life and their own; and, when he and they
were dead, still the distinction of Shah Sevund descended to their
children; and the pledged band continued for ever attached to
the Sefi dynasty.
The walls, the ceilings, of the little chambers of repose I
have just mentioned, (and which, doubtless, had been occasionally
inhabited by some of the worthies of the Shah Sevund, from the
age of Shah Abbas, to that of Shah Houssein, when the race of
3 K 2
436 VIEW OF ISPAHAN FROM THE ROOF OF THE SEFI GATE.
the Sefi no longer found a throne in Persia;) all these places
were wrought into bowery net-works, or treillages of gold and
flowers, intermingled with small anacreontic paintings of men
and women revelling in the juice of the vineyard. We are not
ignorant of the freedom which Shah Abbas practised, and allowed,
with regard to the convivial use of wine. But when I considered
these depicted exaggerations of that liberty, and the common
consequences of such complete abandonment, as they openly
pourtray, of king and nobles to the most stupifying and im-
bruting of vices; and compared them with the wise ordinances of
Shah Abbas for his people's good, and the steadiness with which
they were maintained by himself and his ministers, I could not,
on any rational principle, attribute these unveiled portraitures of
man, in his most disgraceful moments, to such a prince; to him,
of whom the judicious Chardin wrote, that “when Shah Abbas
ceased to breathe, Persia ceased to prosper.” Hence, I again
suggest, that all the grossest bacchanalian scenes found here, and
in other royal seats of the Sefi race, are commemorations of the
drunken orgies of Abbas the Second ; who, on these occasions,
we hear from all quarters, gloried in his shame; admitting high
and low to be his boon companions. The consequences of his
vices, sufficiently shewed their undeviating tendency, in the
reign of his “ son, and son's son ;” paving the way for the con-
quest of the Afghans, by the demoralization of his nobles, and
the oppression of his people. -
From the roof of this building, whence such divers scenes of
royal festivity, or of royal massacre, must have been beheld; we
had an extensive view of the city. In the days of its prosperity,
the panorama must have been splendid. At present, with the
exception of the palaces in the gardens to the westward, the whole
ATTUSH KOU, OR FIRE-HILL. 437
mass below is one mouldering succession of ruinous houses, walls,
mosques, and shapeless structures, which had formerly been the
mansions of the nobility. They lay, a vast grey heap; but agree-
ably broken to the eye, and shaded, in a variety of directions, by
groups, or lines of lofty poplars, walnut, chinar, and fruit-trees;
which still flourish amongst the ruins of the human habitations,
to which they had once made part of their gardens.
On turning towards the west, we then indeed see the last
rays of the setting sun of Ispahan still above the horizon,
glittering on the burnished pinnacles, sparkling fountains, and
gay verdure of the Heste Beheste, and Chaher Bagh. Several
miles beyond, but nearly in the same direction, and yet within
the wide circumference of the city boundary, we observed an
insulated hill, rising high, in a conical shape, and forming a very
conspicuous object amongst the crumbling mounds at its foot.
It is called the Attush kou, or fire-hill. On its summit are some
fragments of a building, the original constructors of which the
people around declare to have been the devil, or evil spirits.
Indeed, it is the easy fashion of this country to account for
every thing, about whose origin the speaker is ignorant, by
attributing it to daemon agency. And this blind superstition
is no where so often exhibited, as when inquiries are made
respecting the founders of some of the finest architectural
remains, which, from ingenuity, workmanship, and taste, must
have been the erection of the most enlightened days of the
empire; and then we see the wandering natives shake their
heads, and gravely ascribe these proofs of their fathers' greatness,
to the handicraft of the arch-enemy of mankind. But, as this
Attush kou is an artificial mount, and stands close to the quarter
of the city where the Guebres, and particularly those who
438 THE HILL OF SEFI.
followed the arms of Mahmoud, dwelt; no doubt they re-seated
themselves in a spot that had been inhabited by their ancestors,
from the first peopling of the banks of the Zeinderood; and
they found it thus marked by the High Place of their worship.
The view around this extensive metropolis, is bounded on all
sides by mountains; to which legends are attached, wild and im-
probable, but equally interesting to the kalioun-smoking Persian,
delightedly listening to the often-repeated narrations, as the
most authentic traditions of their own country to our European
scholars. One of the mountains nearest to the city, and which
stands in an eminently bold position, rugged and sterile, is
called the Hill of Sefi ; being sanctified by the remains of a
hermitage, and other spots, once the dwelling of a saint and his
devotees. -
The range to the south, and south-west, which appear rising
in successive heights to a great distance, crown, with their pale
heads, the varied and promontoried cliffs, which seem to bul-
wark the decaying towers of Ispahan. From the remote
fastnesses of these mountains, the Bactiari robbers make their
descents, whenever the spoil in the way may be worth the
danger. Every farsang's distance from Teheran seems, in the
ideas of these barbarians, to shorten the arm of the royal law
against them ; and, in consequence, it behoves travellers to
marshal their ranks, and prime their weapons, before they turn
their horses' heads into the rocky gorge of these ravines.
The time drew near for the prosecution of my journey. But
the same cause that detained me so long at the gates of my royal
lodging on my arrival at the old capital, delayed me two or
three days when I proposed leaving it; the ill-conduct of the
mehmandar I had brought from Teheran; whose own pursuits
PERSIAN COSTUME. 439
at Ispahan, had occasioned the first embarrassment; and who,
from the same motives, by various subterfuges, sought to im-
pede my departure. During these discussions, and hinderances,
I occupied my vacant hours in copying some of the costumes
from the old pictures in the banqueting hall of the Chehel Se-
toon; which, in almost every particular, differ from that of the
Persian of the present day. The rich and gay brocades, worn
by the nobles of the court of the Sefi race, as their ordinary
habits, are now changed for European cloths; the costly shawl
for the head, or tissued turban, are replaced by a plain cap of
black sheep-skin : in short, the alteration is from head to foot.
But every detail of the modern dress, being so minutely given
by Mr. Morier, I need not repeat them here. Besides, it is the
less necessary to present a regular description of costume in my
sketch of the manners and customs of these people, since dif-
ferent parts of it have incidentally been noticed throughout the
volume. But, to any person who has read the valuable work
on Persia, referred to above, this apology is unnecessary; and,
for the satisfaction of those who have not, and yet would wish
for more of the detail than I have given, I shall subjoin, in one
of my volumes, drawings of the habits of both men and women.
In the course of a morning stroll, after leaving my copying
amusement in the solitary hall of the Great King, and passing
through its gates into the umbrageous avenues of the Chaher
Bagh, I turned my steps along a sequestered walk, which com—
ducted me to one of the still existing colleges, out of the many
which Ispahan boasted in its day of royalty. Chardin mentions,
that forty-eight of these establishments were in a flourishing
state when he visited the city. The one which I saw was called
Medressy Jeddah. Its portal is filled by two immense folding-
440 MEDRESSY JEDDAH.
doors made of solid brass, deeply embossed, and richly orna-
mented with pure silver. On passing through them, and a
vestibule with a dome roof, I found myself in a spacious square
court, planted thickly with flowers, and overshadowed by lines
of lofty trees. The roses were of every hue and perfume; and
being now in their fullest blow, the air was one cloud of incense.
The cloistered sides of the building which formed the square,
were divided into arched compartments, covered within and
without with variegated tiles, coloured in strange, fantastic pat-
terns, intermixed with sentences from the Koran. In this prac-
tice of writing the precepts of their religion “on the posts of
their houses, and on their gates,” both Mahomedans and Ar-
menians appear to respect the Divine Law; which, with as much
paternal tenderness, as beauty of language, commands the lessons
of virtue to “be bound, for a sign, upon the hand; and worn as
a frontlet between the eyes: that it may be well with them,
and with their children for ever !”
A mosque occupies nearly the whole of one side of the qua-
drangle. Its porch is supported by two high columns; and when
we enter, we find the whole in the freshest preservation of splendid
decoration. The cupola-roof is of a fine form, brilliantly orna-
mented in the Sefi taste; and surmounted, on the outside, by
three golden globes. Crescents, as a finish to this part of a holy
building, I have not seen in Persia. About a hundred students
are now the inhabitants of this college. They receive their edu-
cation free of expense to themselves, the moullah who instructs
them being paid by the government. And, while I contem-
plated their regular habits, the seclusion of the place, and the
serenity which reigned within its walls, I could not but feel with
Mr. Morier, that here was the very sanctuary of study. Indeed,
CLIMATE AT ISPAHAN. 441
I thought it by far the most delightful spot in the whole range
of the royal domains, and well worthy the title of the Ninth
Paradise; the other eight might be deemed the gardens of
pleasure, but this is the mansion of peace. I enquired for the
venerable Mirza Mahomed Cassem, who was its head at the
time Sir Hartford Jones visited Ispahan, and heard, with much
disappointment, that he had been dead some time.
I walked, as well as rode, a good deal, during my short so-
journ at Ispahan, being solicitous to see as much of the city as
my time would allow ; and, to my surprise, I found the climate
not the least in my way. The mornings were extremely plea-
Sant; and the days, equally so; the thermometer in the shade
seldom exceeding 75 of Fahrenheit. The evenings, however,
were oppressively close, followed by nights as extremely cold
and sharp. Being without dew, the scenery around Ispahan is
deprived of a feature in the landscape, which, in the fine May-
mornings of Europe, preserves the fresh hue of the verdure,
and gives brilliancy to every object. At present, (May 31st,)
no fruits are ripe here; but both cherries and plums are eaten,
as delicacies, in their crude state. - -
June 1st, 1818. Finding the idle pretences of my mehmandar
increase to an attempt to shake off his duty altogether, and by
the utterance of the most cunning and impudent falsehoods, to
persuade me that his office ended at Ispahan, where he should,
therefore, remain ; I, at last, took the step I ought to have
done on his first demurring, and notified his behaviour to the
Governor. Redress was immediate; the insolence of a ser-
vant to a stranger, being considered as reflecting disgrace on his
master, and an almost unpardonable breach of hospitality to his
guest. A mandate was instantly issued from the higher powers,
VOL. I. - 3 L
442 DEPARTURE FROM ISPAHAN.
importing, that it was on the refractory person's own peril, to
linger another moment, after I should command him to fulfil in
every respect the order of the King; which was, that he should
attend me with all the services of a mehmandar, from my
setting forth from Teheran, to my return to that city again.
And, if I should hereafter find cause to complain of his con-
duct in any one tittle, a signal punishment would be his certain
award. .*
The vavaseur, or rather varlet, according to our English ac-
ceptation of the term, finding that my European patience might
be encroached on too far, and that I had, and would in future,
put my demands on his services, if demurred, into the hands of
those accustomed to treat determined disobedience in a very
summary way, resumed his eloquence, to explain his extraor-
dinary misapprehension of the royal commission; and, to make
atonement, became proportionably alert in expediting all my
commands, whether they might tend to take him southward,
to Persepolis, or westward, to Jericho. Being now aware of
the character I had to deal with, I managed him afterwards on
a principle directly opposite from the Prince of Denmark's order.
Had I dealt with this man “according to mine own honour,” I
should have been left in deserts, and encouraged him to dis-
honour his master; but, as I treated him “according to his own,”
I kept him honest, and, as my royal entertainers would have
wished, myself in as much comfort, as the various fortunes of
the road, in so wide an empire, could reasonably admit.
After all preliminaries, and the proper adieus to the delegated
authorities in Ispahan, I saw my troop well mounted; pre-
pared, “sword, and sinewy arm,” at the port of egress, for what
might occur hereafter: and, having given my orders to the
INTERRUPTED BY THE DESOLATE INHABITANTS. 443
now obsequious mehmandar, Sedak Beg and myself took our
station at the head of the little cavalcade. It was then near the
hour of sun-set. But the lamps of unnumbered stars, without a
cloud “to blink their beams,” were in prospect; and the dissolv-
ing sultriness of the evening, I knew would give place to the
bracing cool of the night; hence, I did not hesitate to set forth
the first hour I found the path clear. . -
In passing from the vaulted exterior galleries of the palace,
our way lay through the ruinous quarter which had formerly
been inhabited by the court silversmiths and jewellers; now
the asylum of hundreds of starving wretches; sprung, as it were,
like the repeated offspring of the Dragon's teeth in heathen
fable, from the blood of the murdered citizens, who had pe-
rished under the sword of Mahmoud in these very arcades.
Their unceasing clamours for relief, render the only avenue
open to those who dwell within the royal walls, a passage of
pain, increasing at every step.
Croesus himself could hardly give satisfactory alms to all that
apply; and there is no issue, on horseback at least, but through
crowds of these unhappy people. Whole families, from the
aged and crippled grandsires, to mothers with their infants at
their breasts, surrounded us on all sides, with scarce a rag to
hide their emaciated, and almost blackened limbs. This was,
indeed, the worst ruin I had seen in Ispahan. And I grieve,
as a man united to these poor creatures by a common nature,
to add, that this was not the only spot, in the ancient pride of
Persia, where such spectacles presented themselves. Many
hundreds, in the same condition, hide their wretchedness
amongst the forgotten vaults of the more remote parts of the
desolated city; exhibiting a sad picture of what the vicissitudes
3 L 2
444 UNCOMMON SAGACITY IN A GREYHOUND.
of a great capital may be ; and the reverses of an empire, which
once gave laws to the major part of the Asiatic world.
After passing through the long avenue of the Chaher Bagh,
and crossing the bridge to the most south-eastern point of the
city, we found ourselves amidst the far-stretching ruins of the
suburb on that bank of the river; and I had scarcely cleared
its deep and shadowy lines, and yet more shadowy phantoms of
men and women, clamorous for charity, before the evening
closed. We touched our horses with the spur, and rode briskly
forward for more than a mile. At the entrance of a little upland
valley, I turned round to take a parting glance of the last seat
of the Sefies. A long yellow gleam lay over the town, marking
the mosque and palace domes, columns and spiry towers, with
a streak of gold. When I looked again, from a more elevated
spot, and at a greater distance, the reflected brightness had
faded to a faint silvery hue, till all was lost in the grey twilight
of the horizon.
Our way lay nearly south, on an undulating road, winding
amongst the hills, but keeping the Sefī mountain, and its range,
to our right. At this point of my journal, I cannot refrain from
mentioning an instance of uncommon sagacity in a greyhound,
of our company; that sort of dog not, in general, being cele-
brated for any thing beside fleetness in the chase. Soon after
we had advanced into the uneven country, by some negligence
or other, the horse-keeper allowed a fine spirited animal he was
leading to break away. The horse set off at speed up the hills;
and, from the darkness of the night, and the few people I could
spare to pursue, I at first despaired of his recovery. But the
dog, on the instant he perceived the animal loose, headed him
at every turn ; and, at length, after a long run, succeeded in
PASS OF OURTCHINY. 445
catching the end of the halter, and retaining it in his mouth;
holding it firm, while the superior strength of the horse dragged
him onward; and then, pulling him in his turn, endeavoured
to arrest the fugitive's pace, during his bounds and sudden freaks :
which effort of the dog's, so far impeded the animal's flight, as,
at last, to allow one of my servants to seize him. A British
bull-dog could not have shown more determination, or strength
of mouth, at the nose of a bull, than was evinced by my slightly- -
made Persian greyhound Cooley, (the spotted,) in his contest
with this strong, and very highly mettled horse.
After a march of nearly five hours, we reached the mouth of a
valley, which leads to the Pass of Ourtchiny; going forward un-
der night shadows, more gloomy than usual at this season, and at
this hour, in Persia; but we were in the midst of hills, that deep-
ened darkness by their own black shade, and by obstructing any
light from star or moon-beam. The road from this point, was
rocky, steep, and rough ; literally a ladder hewn in the mountain,
for the surer footing of the horses and beasts of burthen ; who, as
we viewed them indistinctly from below, appeared hanging from
the rock, in the air. Myself and Sedak Beg followed; and thence,
from the almost perpendicular of the first ascent, we continued
winding upward, on a path equally dangerous, round the broken
and projecting masses of the mountain. Having surmounted
these difficulties, our animals halted on the summit of the pass,
to take breath, where we found a range of small buildings; the
guard-houses of a detachment of musketeers, stationed here to
protect travellers from the marauding attacks of the wild
banditti from the remoter hills, who still infest the neighbourhood.
Certain tax-gatherers are also posted with these defenders, to
collect a toll from merchants and caravans as they pass. The
446 VILLAGE OF MAYAR.
spot was “appallingly complexioned” for pillage and murder;
and, I think it an even chance, that should strong temptation,
and a promising opportunity occur, these very watchmen of our
safety might become the principal actors in a scene of midnight
plunder. Hence, again I recommend to all travellers who
journey in these perilous tracts, to carry along with them their
own guards.
We now began a rather gradual descent, still winding amongst
the mountains, but which terminated in a valley, bounded by
abrupt and irregularly formed rocks. The day began to dawn as
we came in sight of our menzil, near the village of Mayar. It
was, indeed, welcome as the morn to the whole party, after so
severe a march; and at half-past four we entered its just opened
gates; having travelled from Ispahan eight farsangs, and from
the pass of Ourtchiny three.
June 2d. Mayar is a considerable village, situated in a well-
cultivated valley, of about three or four miles in width. The
country around looks cheerful, from its planted fields and
gardens; but the spectre-like ruins of other villages, which start
up at every turning, for ever scare away the pleasurable feelings
with which we greet views of peculiar rural beauty. The moun-
tains which rise on either side of this fertile vale, are abrupt,
sterile, and of particularly bold and wild forms. I might have
thought myself again amongst the most savage tracts of the
Caucasus, climbing the scarred ridges of a shattered rocky world.
Their strata run so irregularly, and in such opposite and fractured
directions, the whole seems as if the Titans had really been at
war, and this the scene of their tearing up the hills, and pitching
them against each other, to fall, at any hazard, in the pell-mell
heaps in which they stand. A fine blueish lime-stone, and a
reddish sandy rock, appear their principal substance. -
PEOPLE OF MAYAR. 447
The caravansary at Mayar, was one of Shah Abbas's erections;
but, for want of due repairs, is sinking rapidly to decay; a
neglect, which, if not remedied in time, will be severely felt by
future travellers, it being the only allotted place of reception
after the fatigues of so long and arduous a march. On our
arrival, the villagers made a demur to sending in the provisions
which the King's order required; but the mehmandar reminded
the Ketkhoda (the magistrate of the hamlet) of two former
visits which he had made to that spot, when the people had
chosen to be refractory; and the remembered consequences soon
unlocked their stores. Perhaps I could not give a clearer view
of the arbitrary use the subordinate officers of an Asiatic govern-
ment make of their power; and of the dispositions with which
certain instances of its prerogative are always hardly endured,
though generally patiently acceded, by the natives, than by
relating the two circumstances to which my unprincipled at-
tendant referred.
He had been ordered by government to accompany a detach-
ment of Russian soldiers, in the royal pay, down to Shiraz, and
see that they were amply provided during the march. At this
village he found the doors barred, and every article demanded
the people refused. He remonstrated, he threatened, but no
compliance was intimated. A coup de main was then decided,
and he turned the soldiers loose. Without ceremony, they
treated the whole scene à la militaire; burst open the doors of
the houses, broke the heads of half the inhabitants, and, not
only helped themselves to their due, but to whatever else they
took a fancy to in the dwellings of the disobedient. -
But the result of this gentleman's second exertion of official
authority, was much more serious to these unhappy people.
448 DISOBEDIENCE TO THE RACKAM.
Some months after the former affair, he was nominated
mehmandar to a khan of high distinction, travelling to the south;
but who, on arriving at this village, and demanding the tribute
due to the royal rackam, was, in like manner with myself,
peremptorily refused. His purveyor hinted to the nobleman,
the expediency of repeating the coercive arguments he had used
before; but the khan was of a mild and generous nature, and,
forbidding all attempts at force, caused it to be intimated to the
people, that he, here, waived the privilege with which he had
been honoured by his sovereign, and would purchase every thing
he might require; plenty was then produced, and the bringers
amply repaid. The old mehmandar, vexed to the heart at this
passiveness of his charge, determined to revenge himself on the
villagers, and to make the khan himself the instrument. Ac-
cordingly, he managed to have that munificent nobleman's
trunks broken open during the night, and left in a pillaged state.
In the morning, when they were discovered, the outrage was
represented to the owner as having been done by the people he
had paid so liberally: “You now see,” cried the mehmandar,
“why these disobedient villagers would neither send their
Ketkhoda, nor come near themselves, when we first arrived;
they had laid a plan of robbing you, and, notwithstanding your
ill-placed generosity, you see they have fulfilled their intentions.”
The khan could not suspect his own followers, nor his highly
respectable guide, nor yet doubt his eyes; and, enraged at the
ingratitude of the wretches he had saved from the mehmandar's
threatened enforcement, he reported their conduct to govern-
ment; and the consequence was, the unfortunate village of
Mayar was condemned to pay three thousand pounds of cotton,
in penalty for their disobedience and dishonesty. Meanwhile,
ºr ºrº Zºrºr.
-
Azzº & Zºº ºdºrow.” Zºza.






DEPARTURE FROM MAYAR. 449
the old jackall (to whose well-known hard and griping nature,
I doubt not, these denials may, from the first, be attributed), on
his return to the ancient capital, exaggerated an accidental loss
of his own, namely, a worn-out baroony (or cloak) and a pair of
riding breeches, into a property worth several hundred tomauns,
which he accused these people of stealing also. The wrath
was now great against this poor village i the mehmandar him-
self was sent with a party of horsemen to collect the fine of
punishment; and he told me, with a grin, that he took care to
squeeze out an additional hundred tomauns for himself, and
thirty for each of his armed companions. * g
What European could listen to these details, without internally
drawing a parallel between the state of what are called the
people, in the kingdoms of Christendom, and the situation of
those beyond its pale? For, whatever may be the comparative
difference in the several political constitutions of Europe, the
spirit of their common faith infuses itself amongst them all; and
a certain principle of equal justice is, consequently, found to
modify the most arbitrary. But a man must travel in the East,
to fully understand this, and, therefore, to be sufficiently grateful
for his happier destiny. . -
June 4th. We left our quarters this morning at 5 o'clock.
Our road lay in a direction from south 14" to 20° east, along the
valley of Mayar, which increased in width as we advanced.
Having travelled about two farsangs, we passed a walled mill;
leaving it on our left, where we entered on a succession of de-
tached and rocky hills, possessing a very ill name as the lurking-
places of robbers from the higher mountains. We traversed
them, however, in safety; and then pursued our way over a flat
and excellent road, situated at a distance of nearly two miles
VOL. I. 3 M
450 TOMB OF SHAH REZ.A.
from the foot of the mountains to the eastward. The extensive
village of Ispha stood on one side of the road; but we did not
stop there, our halting-place lay far beyond it. The country
around was fine; and, at about a farsang's distance from our
appointed quarters, we approached a very picturesque spot—
the Tomb of Shah Reza, who, respected by all invaders, is said
to have rested there unmolested for the space of seven hundred
years. It is built of brick, of a low dome shape, standing amidst
a grove of trees, and washed at its side by a beautifully clear
stream. Part of the waters are drawn off into a small tank,
appropriated to a sort of sacred fish, greatly revered by the
Persians. But whether they are considered holy in themselves,
or derive it from their vicinity to the shrines of Imaums, or other
sainted persons, I could not distinctly understand.
The whole way from the sacred tomb to Koomishah, our des-
tined menzil, was a continuation of devastated human habitations;
not merely in a ruinous state, but fallen to the ground in shape-
less heaps, mixed with pleasure-grounds run to wildness; and
every other vestige of former prosperity, mingled with present
desolation. This tract comprised an extent of four miles; the
monotonous undulation of the almost undefinable masses of
decay, being varied at innumerable distances with high perforated
towers, which were (or rather had been) the celebrated pigeon
towers for breeding myriads of those birds, so long a mine of
wealth to the district of Ispahan. At present, they are as
tenantless as the ruins at their base; not a human foot moves
amongst them; not a wing of that beautiful and almost domestic
bird winnows the air. Indeed, most of the way from Ispahan
to Koomishah, these buildings appear every where, at a little
distance from the sides of the roads; always where the remains
THE PIGEON TOWERS. – KooMISHAH. 451
of a village are discernible; and almost every one is equally
silent, with this numerous colony of depopulated towers which
mark the dun heaps of Koomishah. Formerly, great attention
was paid to the nurturing and rearing of these birds; their dung,
I have been told, bringing in a yearly income (from the produce
of one pigeon-house alone,) of nearly two hundred tomauns.
Amongst other uses to which the small remains of this manure
is applied, it is laid on the melon-beds of Ispahan; and hence
the great reputation of the melon of that district, for its unequalled
flavour. Another use of the dung in older times, was to extract
saltpetre for the purpose of making gunpowder; which, two
centuries ago, had only just been put into the Persian list of
warlike ammunition.
We entered the walls of Koomishah after a march of five
hours and a half; the distance from Mayar being estimated at
five farsangs, about nineteen British miles. It is an extensive
place, but forsaken, and tumbling to pieces in every direction.
After passing through its lofty gate, we traversed a long line of
empty bazars without meeting an individual. On the left of
the deserted place of shops, we took up our quarters in a dirty,
wretched caravansary, but the best in the city; and which was the
work, in days of yore, of a certain public-spirited nobleman,
named Jaffier Khan. The extremity of the valley through which
we had travelled, nearly closed on the opposite mountains at the
point where we found the town. Its dilapidated walls, towers, and
houses, completely filled the chasm; which expanded again on
the other side of the ruins, over whose mouldering hillocks you
pass, as through a breach, to enter a broader vale. The ground
in this valley, and more immediately near the town, is torn up
by the spring torrents. Unchecked by the ingenuity of the
3 M 2
452 KOOMISHAH.
peasant, and their ravages left without repair from his industry,
they pour down from the mountains in free course, deluging
cot and field. That it was not always so, we see in the deep
and wide channel through which they once flowed a noble
single stream, across which comparatively empty bed, many
stately though broken arches of fine bridges, still bear testimony
to the former consequence of Koomishah, and the full flood of
its river. There can be no doubt that it was a town of great
antiquity; but I am not aware of the justness of Chardin sup-
posing it to be the Orebatis of Ptolemy. -
It would be tedious, on leaving each separate ruinous spot
of the many we visited throughout this empire, to be always
recapitulating the causes of such melancholy effects; suffice it
to say, the catastrophes of most may generally be epitomised
in a few words: civil discord, foreign invasion, and the oppres-
sions of arbitrary delegated governors. Indeed, the latter evil
is sufficient to comprise all the mischief of the two others in
itself. -
June 5th. We left our miserable caravansary this morning at
three o'clock, by the light of the stars; their influence was not
very powerful, yet enough to show the deplorable desolation of
that part of the city, through which the warden of our quarters,
acting as guide, convoyed myself and followers. The path was
so involved, we appeared wandering for more than a mile
amongst nothing but ruins, and over ground, stoney, and fissured
with shattered water-courses, and interrupted by traversing
ravines. Such were our difficulties, until we reached the foot of
the opposite mountain ; whence commenced the eastern side of
the valley, and along which our route lay, over an excellent
road. As soon as the dawn began to render objects more
SUMMARY PUNISHMENT OF MARAUDERS. 453
visible, we found ourselves in a plain of from eight to ten miles.
wide; abundantly spotted with villages, in the usual imposing
style, mud-walled and flanked with towers; but when we drew
near, most were decayed, and none fully inhabited. At about three
farsangs farther, we saw a large insulated hill on our right, from
whose base extended, in a sort of radii, very extensive gardens.
They were carefully inclosed, and the country, for a little way,
seemed in corresponding cultivation. In passing the walls of
more than one deserted hamlet, our mehmandar pointed out to
us certain spots, where he told us blood had been shed. Some-
times, the perpetrators were open invaders; but oftener, the
desolaters of the little places before us were the banditti moun-
taineers; who, for ages past, have rendered the route from
Ourtchiny to the very gates of Shiraz, an expedition of danger.
At the turning of a murderous looking dell, he showed us a ruin
where the present Shah's brother, the late Hossein Kouli Khan,
surprised a band of about thirty Bactiaries dividing their spoil.
They were seized immediately. He then ordered his people to
punish the robbers by depriving them of the sight of their left
eyes, and cutting off their right hands. When he was obeyed, he
dismissed the mountaineers to their tribes, telling them to take
those marks on their bodies, as a warning to their fellows of the
manner in which all should be treated, who were caught com-
mitting any depredation on hill or valley within the Persian
dominions. - -
In the midst of one of the mehmandar's long stories, we de-
scried a multitude of people at a distance; which, on approaching
near, we found to be a company of pilgrims, from Shiraz and
its vicinity, journeying to Kerbela, to pay their devotions at the
tomb of the martyred Hossein. The party consisted of men,
454. MEXIOBEGGY.
women, and children; some on foot, others on horseback, mules,
or asses. The dead too formed part of the procession; several
being slung, in their coffins, on the sides of the beasts of burthen,
in the same way with the similar translations near the sacred
precincts of Kom. But in this caravan to Kerbela, there were
two or three corses of great men, travelling to take their last
repose by the side of the brave and virtuous Hossein ; and these
bodies were conveyed in tack-i-ravans, (a sort of palanquin,) at-
tended by groups of horsemen. Amongst the illustrious remains,
were those of Jaffier Khan, a prince who once governed a fine
district in India; and who, from the extraordinary noble qualities
of his heart, and as rare cultivation of mind, was held in high
respect by all our countrymen in that part of the East.
Our line of march continuing, as usual, south 20° to 25° east,
we came up to Mexiobeggy, once a flourishing village, but now
exhibiting only a few huts; though sufficient to contain about
twenty or thirty families, drawn round the walls of a large men-
zil, which the mother of the Prince-Governor of Shiraz has
erected there for the convenience of herself and her royal son, in
their passages between Teheran and his own capital. Mexio-
beggy is about four farsangs from Koomishah; in measured
distance, fifteen British miles. Here the mountains, that bounded
the wide vale we were in, to our left, took a sweep due east,
opening before us a vast sterile plain; the distant limits of which
were faintly seen, in forms like light clouds, through the deep
haze of heat. A ride of three more farsangs, over this burning
waste, brought us to a village called Ameenabad, thinly peopled,
and without a vestige of cultivation near it. The inhabitants
are an idle, unprincipled race; apparently preferring want to
the comforts of industry, while agriculture is to pay any tax to
-
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_





A MEENABAD. - 455
government. Ameenabad is seven farsangs from Koomishah ;
and, of measured British miles, twenty-six. We reached it at
ten o'clock in the forenoon, passing a few of the ragged natives
in the way to our caravansary. Some bore evident marks of the
sloth they were accused of, in their pale, lifeless visages, and
the dragging step of their miserably clad limbs; but others
mixed looks of a fierce cunning with their haggard features,
which seemed to hint the probability of our finding robbers
nearer home than from the Bactiara mountains. -
June 6th. We left our disagreeable quarters at five o’clock
this morning; on a road south 45° east, over the plain, bearing
still no appearance of culture; though we found something more
than the hard and hot surface of a totally barren soil to gaze on,
the earth being thinly covered with the plant which sheds the
gum-ammonium. The inhabitants of Yezdikhast come this
length to gather it ; and the profit well repays their labour. In
the course of this day's travel, we passed close to a conical, in-
sulated hill, on our right; and through an extensive burying-
ground, lying along its base. Amongst the numerous tomb-
stones, I remarked several in the form of a lion, with a naked
scimitar, in bas-relief, at its side. On observing a similar tomb
in the beautiful mountain valley of Kourood, I was told that
this style of monument always designates the grave of some
pelhiva, or warrior of the early heroic age of Persia. And now,
approaching the native realm of the great prince, to whose re-
nowned leading, the fame of these very ancient Knights of the
Lion and the Sword, is attributed, I passed, with deeper interest,
into their more appropriate country, amongst so many of their
tombs. In the same cemetery we saw a monument of a far dif.
ferent form, and greater elevation, covering the remains of a
456 YEZDIKHAST.
good Mussulman, Ali Keza, a relation of the Prophet. A few
hundred yards farther, brought us suddenly to the brink of a
frightful precipice, forming one side of the gigantic ravine, or
rather narrow and steep valley of Yezdikhast.
In the bosom of this sequestered, and wildly romantic dell,
a mass of high rock presents itself, perfectly detached from
either side of the mountain chasm ; and along its rugged sum-
mit, we saw the town and fortress of Yezdikhast. The approach
is inaccessible, except by a draw-bridge, at the north-west side,
which is thrown over a deep ditch, and allows communication
between the place and the valley. The rock on which it stands
is perpendicular on all its faces, presenting a very grand object,
surmounted as it is with this embattled town. At the foot of
the rock, a prodigious number of subterraneous chambers of dif-
ferent dimensions extend themselves; evidently the work of man,
and excavated in the side of the cliff. A small stream washes its
base, and winds thence north-east through the valley. When viewed
from the top of the precipice, the peculiar form and disposition
of its rocks, gave the scene an extraordinary appearance of
wildness, though without any degree of Savage roughness. But
when we entered the dell itself, and saw objects near, then we
found rich cultivation, and every sign of man's industry, mingling
rural beauties with the untameable picturesque of nature. Its
long tracts of waving corn, interspersed with the finest fruit-
trees, produced a delightful contrast to the arid waste we had so
lately traversed. Having descended into the valley, we cross-
ed it eastward, at a little distance from the town, and took up
our quarters at a caravansary of the Sefi age, in excellent re-
pair. The Ameen-a-Doulah had restored it to its present state;
and we found ourselves comfortably reposing within its cool
CRUELTY OF ZACKEE KHAN. 457
arcades soon after 8 o'clock in the morning; we had then
marched about three farsangs from Ameenabad. In the room
where my nummud was spread on the floor, I found the names
of many preceding travellers written on the walls. Some of the
oldest dates were, “Riberra, 1641.”—“Lorenzo Visang, 1645.”—
“A. M. 1653.” — and another, illegible, “1690.”
This little valley, or rather bounding chasm, between the two
most celebrated divisions of the Persian empire, Irak and Fars,
has many interesting subjects of history attached to it, and some
of horrible complexion. During the civil contests which fol-
lowed the death of Kerim Khan, (the virtuous founder of the
Zend dynasty, which perished in a few years after his demise,
from the worthlessness of his heirs,) Zackee Khan, who had
usurped the authority of the kingdom, and who was as execrable
a tyrant as ever disgraced human nature, coming to Yezdikhast
from Shiraz in his way to Ispahan, suddenly made a demand on
the magistrates for a sum of money due to the government,
which he accused them of secreting ; they denied the arrears,
asserted they had no money concealed, and declared it beyond their
power to collect the sum he required. On finding the unhappy
citizens firm in the truth of what they said, without more ado,
he ordered a certain number of them to be taken to a point of the
rock near the window where he sat, and immediately hurled to
the bottom of the precipice. He was obeyed; and about eighteen
or nineteen of the most respected characters in the town, were
the next moment seen, lying a horrible mangled spectacle, dead,
or expiring amongst the rocks beneath. One of the wretched
victims escaped with his life, and still exists; seeming a mi-
raculous preservation, to one who looks up at the immense
height of the rock where the sentence was executed. But, on
VOL. I. 3 N
458 FARS, PARS, OR PERSIS.
the tyrant proceeding to issue commands of still more wanton
and atrocious cruelty, his own followers conceived so instant an
indignation against him, that a conspiracy was formed almost
by the interchange of looks, and before the setting of another
sun he perished by their daggers. This catastrophe happened
about the year 1779. At a farsang's distance from Yezdikhast
the great southern road to Shiraz separates into two routes, one
goes south-west through Deggerdoo, the other eastward by
Shulgastan ; the latter was to be my road.
June 7th. At four o'clock this morning, under a sky, whose de-
parting pearly tints, tinged towards the horizon with a hue to which
earthly colours can give no name, seemed, in the language of the
East, “opening the curtains of Paradise;” we began to ascend
the acclivity of the southern side of the valley of Yezdikhast,
whose sinuous course through the hills marks the limits of
Irak Ajem, the ancient Media; dividing it from the present
province of Fars or Pars, which, under the more classic ap-
pellation of Persis, once comprised what we might call Persia
Proper, the original kingdom of Cyrus; and which, when he
united Media and other realms to his crown, gave its name to
the whole empire. The province of Fars, as it now stands, is
bounded on the north and north-west, by Irak Ajem and
Louristan, and a small portion of Khuzistan ; on the east by
Kerman, whose desert is so well known ; a part of its frontier,
to the south, takes in Laristan, the ancient kingdom of Lar;
and to the south-west it is bounded by the Persian Gulph, the
Sea of Oman, or Erythrean sea, which extends up the country
nearly to Gumberoon; a noted British mercantile settlement in
the time of Kerim Khan.
Having completely cleared the valley of Division, we found
PURSUIT OF THE GOUR, OR WILD ASS. 459
ourselves in a wide plain, and entered into Fars. The general
face of the country differed in no respect from the principal
part of that we had been passing through for several days.
The ground was barren of every kind of vegetation, excepting
where the soap-wort grew in scanty patches, and that of a very
meagre sort. An apt soil, I thought, to teach lessons of hardihood
and privation
The sun was just rising over the summits of the Eastern
mountains, when my greyhound, Cooley, suddenly darted off in
pursuit of an animal, which my Persians said, from the glimpse
they had of it, was an antelope. I instantly put spurs to my
horse, and followed by Sedak Beg and the mehmandar, fol-
lowed the chase. After an unrelaxed gallop of full three miles,
we came up with the dog, who was then within a short stretch
of the creature he pursued; and to my surprise, and at first,
vexation, I saw it to be an ass. But, on a moment's reflection,
judging from its fleetness it must be a wild one, a species little
known in Europe, but which the Persians prize above all other
animals as an object of chase, I determined to approach as near
to it, as the very swift Arab I was on would carry me. But the
single instant, of checking my horse to consider, had given
our game such a head of us, that notwithstanding all our speed
we could not recover our ground on him. I, however, happened
to be considerably before my companions, when, at a certain
distance, the animal in its turn made a pause, and allowed me
to approach within pistol-shot of him. He then darted off
again with the quickness of thought; capering, kicking, and
sporting in his flight, as if he were not blown in the least, and
the chase were his pastime. - -
He appeared to me to be about ten or twelve hands high ;
3 N 2
460 DESCRIPTION OF THE WILD ASS.
the skin smooth, like a deer's, and of a reddish colour; the belly
and hinder parts partaking of a silvery grey; his neck was finer
than that of a common ass, being longer, and bending like a
stag's, and his legs beautifully slender; the head and ears
seemed large in proportion to the gracefulness of these forms,
and by them I first recognised that the object of my chase was
of the ass tribe. The mane was short and black, as was also a
tuft which terminated his tail. No line whatever ran along his
back, or crossed his shoulders, as are seen on the tame species
with us. When my followers of the country came up, they
regretted I had not shot the creature when he was so within my
aim, telling me his flesh is one of the greatest delicacies in
Persia; but it would not have been to eat him that I should
have been glad to have had him in my possession. The pro-
digious swiftness and peculiar manner with which he fled across
the plain, coincided exactly with the description that Xenophon
gives of the same animal in Arabia, (vide Anabasis, b. i.) But,
above all, it reminded me of the striking portrait drawn by the
author of the book of Job. I shall venture to repeat it, since
the words will give life and action to the sketch that is to ac-
company these pages.
“ Who hath loosed the bonds of the wild ass P whose house
I have made the wilderness, and the barren land his dwellings
He scorneth the multitude of the city, neither regardeth he the
crying of the driver. The range of the mountain is his pasture.”
I was informed by the mehmandar, who had been in the de-
sert, when making a pilgrimage to the shrine of Ali, that the
wild ass of Irak Arabi differs in nothing from the one I had just
seen. He had observed them often, for a short time, in the
possession of the Arabs, who told him the creature was perfectly
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HUNTING THE WILD ASS. A61
untameable. A few days after this discussion, we saw another
of these animals; and pursuing it determinately, had the good
fortune, after a hard chase, to kill it and bring it to our quar-
ters. From it I completed my sketch. The Honourable Mount-
stuart Elphinstone, in his most admirable account of the king-
dom of Caubul, mentions this highly picturesque creature under
the name of goorkhur; describing it as an inhabitant of the
desert between India and Afghanistan, or Caubul. It is called
gour by the Persians; and, is usually seen in herds; though
often single, straying away, as the one I first saw, in the wan-
tonness of liberty. To the national passion for hunting so wild
an object, Persia lost one of its most estimable monarchs, Baha-
ram, surnamed Gour from his fondness for the sport, and
general success in the pursuit of an animal almost as fleet as the
wind. The scene of this chase was a fine open vale, near to
Shiraz; but which had the inconvenience of being intersected
by a variety of springs, forming themselves into exceedingly
deep ponds; caverned at the bottom, by nature, to an extent
under ground not to be traced. While the King was in the heat
of pursuit, his horse came suddenly to the brink of one of these
pieces of water, and tumbling headlong, both horse and rider
disappeared. The pond was immediately explored to the utmost
of their ability in those days, but the body of the King could not
be found. Hence it is supposed that it must have been driven by
the stream into one of the subterraneous channels, and there
found a watery grave. This event happened fourteen hundred
years ago; and yet it forms an interesting tale, in the memories
of the natives about, to relate to the traveller passing that way.
Having enjoyed our chase, we returned to the servants; and
journeying on without further deviation, reached the village of
462 SHULGISTAN.
Shulgistan by nine o'clock in the forenoon. Our quarters were
in a caravansary of the same era with that of Yezdikhast, but in
very inferior repair; and distant from the last-named place about
five farsangs. Both village and caravansary are supplied with
water by kanaughts; and the ground in their immediate vicinity
has some show of verdure; but beyond, all is dry and cheerless.
Towards evening I met two or three flocks of sheep and goats,
and a drove of cows, coming in to their nightly shelter. They
were the whole stock of the villagers; and the first animals of
the kind I had seen since we quitted Ispahan. Aware how
much the labour of man gives him power to produce fruitful-
ness on the most barren soils, when I reflected on the dismal
depopulation of these tracts, I ceased to wonder at the change
which had taken place since the time of Chardin; who describes
them, as abundant in people, pasture, herds, and flocks.
June 8th. Left our menzil this morning at four o'clock;
continuing along the plain, south 45° east, arid as ever; but
gradually narrowing to the dimensions of an ordinary valley,
where not even the ruins of a village broke the desert surface
of the ground. Thus we jogged onward, for three farsangs ;
without any change of objects to quicken or retard our pace, till
we arrived at the foot of several pointed rocky hills, which
stretched across, towards the north-east, from the great range
on our right. Here we started a prodigiously large fox, and
ran him for two miles along the valley; but when he took to
the hills we soon lost him. He was very little less than a jackall,
and of a most beautiful silvery grey. .
On returning to our road, and having advanced beyond the
valley into a plain, the whole scene changed. I beheld villages
in every direction, surrounded by gardens and thickly shaded
KOOSHKAT. 463
with trees. We passed two of these pretty hamlets, called Sakhah
and Bahman; they stood a mile to our right; while the inter-
mediate ground, where men and cattle were moving about in the
purposes of husbandry, gave a civilized life to the view ; widely
contrasting the wild region of the day before, over which we had
pursued the fleet-footed gour. A ride of two or three hours
farther brought us to Kooshkat, our halting-place, about five
farsangs from Shulgistan.
This is an extensive village, with a small fortress in the
centre; round which the low flat-roofed houses cluster, within
an outward line of embattled walls. Gardens surround it also,
full of flowers and fruit, and most gratefully umbrageous trees.
But above all luxuries, it enjoyed the blessing of an abundant
supply of deliciously pure water, which flows through every
street. There being no caravansary, my quarters were to be at
the house of Moullah Basheh, the Solon of the place. He re-
ceived his Frangy guest with the most frank-hearted courtesy;
providing me with a charmingly cool chamber, or rather large
vaulted cell, neatly matted for my repose. But it proved, that he
had honoured the stranger, by putting him into the mesſid (or
chapel) itself; for, during my sojourn there, I perceived several
persons gliding in, at the stated hours, to repeat their prayers;
and, when said, disappearing again, without disturbing me or
themselves. Indeed, the manners of these villagers seemed as
kindly cultivated as their soil; and the good priest had been so very
assiduous for my comfort, that, at parting, I gave him a little re-
membrance, in the shape of an English pocket-knife; an article
in higher estimation in this part of Persia, for its general use-
fulness, than almost any other European present I could have
made. The Moullah received it with grave, but eloquent thanks.
464 A PERSIAN SURGEON.
A few months' travelling in the empire, had taught me the local
value of this sort of trifles; trifles to us, because we can com-
mand them to superabundance. --
Once, under circumstances similar to those which obliged me
to lodge with the Moullah, I repaid the hospitalities of the sur-
geon of a Persian village, where I had taken up my quarters,
with the present of a very fine lancet. The poor man by some
fortunate chance had possessed one, about ten years before;
but time having long ago rendered it incapable of use, he
had been reduced, in consequence, to bleed with the point
of a pen-knife of a very indifferent fabric. During my travels,
I was in the custom of having a lancet always about me, in
case of accidents; and when I took this out of my pocket-
book, put it into his hand, and told him it was for himself;
he looked at me, and at it, with his mouth open, as if he hardly
comprehended the possibility of my parting with such a jewel.
But when I repeated the words “It is yours,” he threw himself
on the ground, kissed my knees and my feet, and wept with a
joy, that stifled his expression of thanks. And all this agitated
gratitude was for a gift, which related more to the comfort of his
patients, than to his own profit. For, being the only practitioner
near the place, it must be the same to the weight of his purse,
whether he bled with a knife or a nail. Hence, benevolence
alone, caused his rapture. And my feelings, though not so ec-
statically, were not less moved, on seeing such pure disinterest-
edness in the mind of a man, where gold is too generally con-
sidered all in all. - - -
But to return to my venerable Moullah. He carefully deposited
his newly acquired treasure in his kalumdoon, or inkhorn; an
attribute as essential to the dignity of a Moullah, as his daggered
MOULLAHS, WILLAGE-SCHOOLMASTERS. 465.
belt, to the honour of a Khan. The profession of my host ranks
with the most learned of the East; a sort of successor to the old
Magi; having the religion, philosophy, and tuition of the country
entirely in the hands of its professors. But, of course, these
sacerdotal wise men, like men in all other callings, differ in
degrees of rank and acquirements; some, according to their
original stations; others, according to their natural abilities. The
Moullahs of a village, are not, in general, of the most learned
degrees; but they are often the most amiable men. Not being
initiated in the deepest doctrines of their faith, they know nothing
of systems, and less of party-spirit: hence, though devout, we
seldom find them bigoted; a feature rather too prominent with
some of the great doctors of their Moslem law. • * *
The qualifications most in demand for a village Moullah, or
priest, are, to be able to read, in an audible voice, the appointed
chapters from the Koran; to drawl out the daily prayers, in a
regular nasal cadence; and to call out the awaaun, or summons
of his flock to divine service, at the several stated times of the
day; which are an hour before sun-rise, noon, and at sun-set.
The aw:aun is declared from the roof of the mesched. Minarets
are not now to be seen attached to any mosque in Persia;
though they are in constant use over every other part of Ma-
homedan Asia. º • . . . . .
As the office of tutor to princes, and other great men, is
usually given to Moullahs of superior endowment, so the task of
schoolmaster in a village, commonly devolves on its Moullah ;
who, in whatever other sort of lore he may be scant of breath,
never fails to fully accomplish his pupil in the long-drawn notes
with which he chants his orisons; and some, the most favoured,
are perfected in the hoy signal for the hours of prayer; which
vol. 1. 3 o
466 DRESS OF THE MOULLAHS.
is sung out in a kind of cadence, or musical air, not disagreeable
when the voice is good, and capable of sustaining a long shake,
with which the awgaun concludes; and the fine execution of
which forms one of the greatest ambitions of these young ser-
vitors of the Mahomedan church. The support of the village
Moullahs, or priests, chiefly arises from the produce of certain
lands, for which they pay no tax; and, secondly, from dona-
tions received from the people. The priesthood of the cities
are often richly endowed by gifts from the opulent hadjée khans;
but in the midst of wealth, they are expected to live in extreme
simplicity. Hence, many affect a particular abstinence from
the usual pleasures of mankind; even relinquishing, in part, the
gratifications of society; and, above all, never dissipating their
holy reserve by conversing familiarly with a foreigner, whatever be
his rank or learning. A peculiar personal sanctity, too, is some-
times assumed by the very rigid; who, deeming Christians unclean
in a religious sense, are scrupulous to avoid coming in contact
with them, lest by the touch of their garments, theirs should
be contaminated. When such a misfortune does take place,
nothing under a total immersion of themselves and their habili-
ments, can restore them to their original purity. This super-
stition prevails also amongst some of the bigoted laymen ; and
mostly with those who are remote from frequent intercourse
with Europeans. In the north of the empire, so little are such
prejudices known, that, with a very few exceptions, there is
scarcely a Persian to be found who would not eat out of the
same tray with you. . f
The Moullahs differ in dress from their lay countrymen in
several points. They wrap their heads in a shawl, or long
piece of white linen ; the descendants of the Prophet use green ;
FINE VIEW FROM KOOSHKAT. 467
their outer coat crosses diagonally over the breast, tying or
buttoning near the top of the right hip : in summer, they go
barefooted, and in winter wear socks; but whether the weather
be warm or cold, a large wrapping cloak, without sleeves, is
invariably the finish of their dress; it is made of a stuff like
camlet, marked with brown and white in two or three exceedingly
broad stripes. The stuff is a manufacture peculiar to Kourdistan
near Kermanshah, and thence brought to all the other parts of
the empire. But I must not omit naming one appendage no
Moullah can be seen without, (and which, indeed, is very common
with the Persians in general;) a small rosary of black beads.
If it number their prayers, it also proves a perpetual subject of
amusement; the beads being kept in a continual movement by
the fingers, both during the discourse or silence of the wearer.
With some of them, were a Frangeh to accidentally touch one of
these beads, it would be little less than sacrilege. But, to do
my host of the Kooshkat Mesched justice, although a learned
man, and one of the brotherhood, he seemed so little impressed
with excluding ideas, that from the first moment he received
me within his walls, he partook of the hospitable fare his kitchen
spread on my board, cheerfully talking, and sitting close to me
without the least apparent apprehension of defilement.
June 9th. Left Kooshkat at half past 4 o'clock this morning,
seeing the village of Abadah, the customary halting-place, at
about a mile distant to the eastward. But turning our backs
both upon it, and the singularly beautiful view of our villaged
fortress as it stood in the grey light of the morning just begin-
ning to be tinged with a greenish golden gleam, we proceeded
along the right side of the valley, close to the base of its stupen-
dous mountain-wall. The opposite side, on its sloping banks,
3 O 2 *
468 ANTELOPE HUNT.
was thickly set with pretty hamlets, abundant gardens, and
every other rural effect of laborious cultivation. So luxuriant
a bed of verdure beneath, produced a most delightful contrast
to the immense regions of barren rock which pended above.
Continuing our march, the valley widened between more equally
undulating banks; and soon after, I discovered an addition to
our party in the shape of a fine white greyhound. It had been
noticed and fed, the evening before by some of my people in
the village; and, from the meagre condition of the poor beast,
I suppose he judged his present change of masters would be an
advantage. His volunteer service proved quite an acquisition,
for scarcely had I discovered him, ere a herd of eight or ten -
antelopes presented themselves trotting along the slope of the
hills near the low ground. We gave them time to get pretty
far down in the plain, and then slipped the dogs. The antelopes
flew before us, and a most delightful and animated chase we had.
The stranger dog ran like the wind, he had singled one out;
and my gallant Arab grey kept well up, and having the plain
before us, nothing could equal the sport. At length the chased
animal finding the dogs gain upon him, made for the hills,
redoubling his speed, but he fled into the jaws of destruction :
our wily mehmandar was in the way, and, as he repassed within
musket-shot, fired, and so wounded him, that the dogs were on
him before he could traverse another hundred yards, and a
Persian knife soon did the rest. The animal was very large,
and his fine spiral black horns told his age. He was placed on
the back of a mule, and proved a most excellent addition to our
travelling stock of provisions. Our way for nearly two farsangs,
ran in a direction south 45° east; when suddenly bending round,
it took a turn as much to the westward, bringing us to the
tPPER AND Lower EKLETT. 469
entrance of a valley scarcely a mile broad, and separated from -
the greater by a low range of hills. -
At half-past 9 o'clock, we approached our ſquarters for the
day, rather invigorated than fatigued by our hunt of the morning;
for the pursuit of any really wild animal, whether gour or
antelope, and over a country without other boundary than those
which nature presents, gives a spring to the blood, and an
adventurous spirit to man and horse, that turns danger to sport,
and carries them over every obstacle. - .
Our menzil was to be one of two villages, distinguished by
the names of Upper and Lower Eklett. They are romantically
situated in a beautiful little vale, running westward into the
mountain-chain, where the undulating ground, diverging from
the more abrupt sides of the hills, was one superb carpet of
the richest vegetation; corn, fruits, and flowers, uniting in
the production of the most glowing colours, harmonizing in
forms of nature's own design; and where the hand of man was
visible, the neatness and order of the husbandry proclaimed the
peace of the inhabitants. I rode up a height to command the
view, and, as I looked over the enamelled ground I have
described, and the disposition of the dwellings amongst it, I
thought it one of the most enviable spots I had seen in Persia.
The trees were of a larger and more umbrageous growth than
the finest in the valley of Kourood, they were also more widely
and thickly scattered over the hills: but the water was the
luxury; it flowed in numerous rippling streams, transparent as
crystal, through the winding channels between the sloping sides
of these verdant heights; till, collecting into broader streams in
the deeper parts of the dell, it took a serpentine course
eastward.
470 coRDIAL RECEPTION BY THE PEASANTRY.
Lower Eklett, where we halted, is distant from Koosh at five
farsangs. Our quarters here did not present us so agreeable
an entertainer; but they were in a garden, with my chamber
close to one of the pleasant little brooks I have mentioned; and
the shade and the water made up for every deficiency. Not
that we had any reason to complain of our reception at Eklett.
It was the more than ordinary hospitality of the Moullah Basheh,
that made our present menzil suffer by comparison. Indeed,
wherever we have halted during our march from Teheran, whether
in or near a village, and where the Shah's rackam was to give
free lodgings to the bearer and his train, a letter of recommend-
ation not the most agreeable we may suppose to the people,
still I seldom had cause to find fault with the treatment
bestowed on myself and followers. We were almost invariably
well received by the natives of every village under the rule
of a Ketkhoda, or magistrate. A proof that these personages
of local authority are not in general tyrannical, or extortioners
in their sway; else, though we might have found obedience to
His Majesty's mandate, it would have been paid with that
grudging sullenness which sufficiently demonstrates the tribute
of compulsion; but, on the contrary, the people have been
ready in look and alacrity, as well as substance; complying with
the rackam without a murmur. Refractoriness, however, we
did sometimes meet ; and, on recollecting two or three anecdotes
of my well-remembered purveyor, in my mind the poor creatures
were very excusable. But, in most cases, no signs of demurring
appeared, except in places where we did not find a Ketkhoda,
and the inhabitants had been left in some degree to their own
management. Independent of the hourly checks of a resident
authority, in such cases they generally lost their good manners,
CURIOSITY OF THE PEASANTRY. 4'71
with the custom of awe to superiors, and stupidly refused obe-
dience to a power they did not see. Indeed, where every man
supposes a necessity of standing by his own property to pre-
vent encroachments from his neighbours, the habits of so sordid
an egotism maturally tend to blunt the social feelings; and his
suspected neighbours acting on the same grasping principle,
no one can be surprised to find the channels of hospitality
and benevolence not merely narrowed, but closed, in such a
community. In these cases, the practice of my mehmandar
always found means to render the defied power of the rackam
visible, and then the dispute was at an end.
The only annoyance I ever experienced in the villages of my
prompt entertainers, was the curiosity of the natives, which
often overstepped the bounds of their intended civility. For a
Persian Khan travelling through the remote hamlets of England,
would hardly be a rarer sight to the gaping rustics, than an
English gentleman making a journey through the southern
villages of Persia, to their inquisitive inhabitants. Hence, I was
often attended by successive crowds staring in at my window;
and now and then startled by some bolder individual putting
his head over my shoulder, to see how a Frangeh ate ! But the
worst was, that, more than once, one or two of these curious
intruders have been likely to pay dear for peeping under my
curtain, to see how a Frangeh slept However, in day-light,
when I found the eyes of my village friends too intrusive, I had
only to make a sign to my mehmandar, or to Sedak Beg, and
one smack of their whips usually dispersed the whole covey in a
moment. In nocturnal visitations, where the object and the
visitors might be mistaken, the mode of clearing the ground WQS
472 VARIETY OF CLIMATE.
not always so harmless. But this never happened but in quarters
open to the ingress of real marauders.
June 10th. We left our embowered menzil this morning at
half past three A. M.; and after a short ride up the valley,
passed the fine ruins of a fortress, strongly situated on a height
over Eklett Bala, the upper village of the name. We then
turned to the south-east into a wider vale, of a very different
character from the Arcadian scenery we had just left. Indeed,
it is a matter of wonder to a European to see how in this
country, the intervening of a ridge of hills will change the face
of nature; on one side we find Eden, on the other a sterile
world : but soil, as well as aspect, has to do with creating this
contrast, - * , g -
The vale we now entered was barren, and bounded on every
side with the sternest mountains, on whose rocky brows to the
south-west, the snow still lay very deep. Another hour and a
half’s march brought us to the mouth of a very narrow and
rugged defile running up this intimidating barrier, and which
we were told we must mount. The road was extremely steep
and stoney, and in parts so difficult, the least fearful of us-looked
for a fall or two at least down the cliffs: two hours' hard climbing
however, brought the whole party in safety to the summit,
where we found ourselves on the over-topping brow of one of
the highest mountains of the chain, and surrounded by tracts
of snow, which rendered its elevated atmosphere peculiarly
piercing and cold. From this point we began a descent, not
quite so perilous as our upward march, the path being less
rocky, and in a more sinuous line. The country below presented
a succession of valleys; and having gained the entrance of the
first, we proceeded in a general direction south 45° east. We
THE EELAUTs. . . 473
had in view a noble volume of waters that gushed from a
cleft in the rock, and pouring downwards in a powerful stream,
scooped a channel for itself in the deep bosom of the hills,
thence flowing onward. Along its grateful, current we kept our
way; for, being again on the low ground, the sun had resumed
its full influence, and the sight alone of the cooling, spring,
independent of the motion of its rapid waters fanning the air,
was cheering to man and beast. But that was not all; the
aromatic smell from the wild rosemary and profusions of lavender,
which grew every where around, as well as from other fragrant
herbage that covered our path, and the banks of the river,
rendered the soft breeze we were then meeting, one breath of
refreshing sweets, while the fragrant vegetation itself afforded a
rich pasture to several flocks of sheep and goats we saw browsing
along the margin of the stream. Each flock was guarded by its
shepherd and his faithful dogs; the man being armed with a
huge clubbed stick, terminating in a lump of an egg shape,
sometimes made of solid iron, and cleft in divisions exactly like
the maces of our ancient men-at-arms. With this substitute for
a crook, they settle all rival differences, and a most formidable
weapon it proves | - * ,
The sheep and goats, with their simply-clad tenders, (for they
had little more than a light upper-garment, and their trowsers,)
belonged to a horde of one of the wandering tribes, so com-
monly to be met with, at this season of the year, all over Persia.
They bear the general name of Eelauts. My friend, Mr. Belino,
observes of this name, and of these people, that “ Eelaut, is
derived from Eel, a genuine Turkish or Tartarian word, signi-
fying tribe; to which aut, an Arabic termination of the plural,
was added; a barbarous form, not uncommon in Persia. The
VOL. I. 3 P
474 TWO CLASSES OF PERSIANS.
Institutes of Timour, published by Major Davy, afford numerous
examples of the same termination being added to genuine Tar-
tarian or Mongolian words. These Persian Eelauts, therefore,
have nothing in common with the nation which the French
missionaries call Eleuth ; for that is the name the Calmucs give
themselves; the appellation Calmuc being only a nickname. And
these Eleuth are of the Mongolian race; whereas the Eelaut of
Persia are of the Tartarian ; and, though frequently confounded,
differ as much from each other, as the Celtic race does from
the Gothic.”
There are, therefore, in Persia, tribes of Tartar and Turco-
man descent; and tribes from the Bactiara mountains, who are
of a race totally distinct from the northern hordes, and, probably,
something more indigenous to the soil, than any of the other
wanderers; but all leading the same manner of life, now bear
the common name of Eelaut ; their pastoral habits little dis-
tinguishing them from the Bedouin Arab, or the Nomade
Tartar on the banks of the Tedzen. Hence the subjects of
the Persian empire appear to consist of two distinct classes :
the stationary inhabitants of towns and cities; and the wan-
dering dwellers in tents and temporary villages; for all
equally acknowledge the sovereignty of the Shah, though
with different degrees of deference to his authority. The Per-
sian, immured in a city, is within grasp of every arbitrary
order; the Eelaut, in his tent, may obey on the side of his
stream, or disobey in the fastness of his mountains. And, per-
haps, as some check to the natural proneness and facilities of
these people to affect independence, has arisen the fashion of
drawing their principal chiefs to court; where we find many of
them mingling the refinements of the capital with their bolder
SUMMER ABODES OF THE EELAUTS. 475
habits; and delegating their authority over the tribe to the
elders, or chieftains next in rank. -
These people, though despising settled habitation, claim a sort
of prescriptive right, derived from their ancestors; and from
time immemorial, many of them pretend to certain mountain
districts and tracts of pasturage, which they keep with the
greatest tenacity; maintaining their ground against any en-
croaching tribe with all the determination of property; and often
the disputes of rival shepherds on small infringements, bring on
the most fatal consequences; engendering blood and feuds to
distant generations. It is impossible to look on these people,
and observe their usages, without acknowledging the illustrations
they may afford of the manners of the early patriarchs of Holy
Writ; their tented lives, roving pasturage, and the contests
which often take place between their herdsmen, and those of
others, for a well, or a track of grass. -
In the winter, the Eelauts either inhabit temporary huts, or
follow the sun into warmer districts; the empire of Persia being
sufficiently extended to yield a temperate climate somewhere,
in almost all seasons. Their summer abodes consist of large
black tents, made of woven horse-hair; the sides being matting,
or dried rushes. They are usually pitched in a quadrangular
form, on the banks of their hereditary rivers, and under the
brow of the mountains which had shadowed their forefathers for
many generations. Hence, though they wander, it is yet within
bounds. They have a country, and only change their place in
it. The Nomade tribes of Arabia and of Tartary bear the same
character; possessing an extended inheritance, though it be only
a desert. And this distinction decidedly marks an essential
difference between these various nations, and the people we call
3 P 2
476 THE PLAIN NEAR DALY NAZIR.
Gipseys; who, without tracing their origin, are found in a state
of vagrancy, all over the world. In Persia they bear the name
of Karashee, or the Black Race ; from their complexions being
darker than any of the native tribes. I saw sufficient of the
Eelaut party before me, to stimulate my curiosity to seek farther
into their customs and manners; and Sedak Beg informed me
I should have ample opportunities, most of the valleys between
that and Shiraz being at this season of the year full of similar
encampments. -
Our way lay through a succession of these mountain-dells,
with each its stream ; and in each we found its appropriate
wandering people; their sheep, mules, and horses, browzing at
ease, and themselves seated on the sun-screened side of
their tents, smoking, and listening to their story-tellers;
while the women appeared within, engaged in domestic occu-
pations. I often saw very picturesque groups, standing or lying
about amongst the rocks; the men being of a bold stature,
with composed, but animated countenances, and in dresses of
the simplest forms. -
Having journeyed through these primitive scenes for upwards
of three hours, we descended into a plain, which opened before
us to an extent equal to that leading to Ispahan. The moun-
tains to the south-east were but faintly discernible, the greatest
expanse of the plain stretching in that direction ; while the view
to the west, over an equally unimpeded level, was terminated
by a much more distinct line of hills. Our quarters were to be
at the village of Daly Nazir. But our mehmandar, ignorant of
its situation on this vast tract, led us three farsangs to the west-
ward out of our way; when, fortunately meeting a caravan of
camels, the drivers apprised us of our mistake. We turned our
DALY NAZIR. . . . 477
horses' heads, gazing on the fearfully hot and unsheltered plain,
over which we had now full four farsangs (a ride of five hours,)
to go, before we could reach our halting-place. It was then
one o'clock in the day; not a tree, not a drop of water, was to
be seen over the whole parched ground. Part, we were to
traverse back again, and then stretch away direct south-east.
At about five o'clock in the evening we reached our quarters;
the whole party, men and animals, nearly overcome with thirst
and exhaustion, having been on our horses fourteen hours,
during which time none of us had either eaten or drank. We
had travelled upwards of fifty miles, at a fast pace under an
almost vertical sun ; so some idea may be formed of the pleasure
with which we threw ourselves upon the cool refreshing earth of
our menzil floor. - ë
The animals appeared to suffer much less inconvenience from
the effects of such extraordinary exposure to the heat than we
did; and, often since, I have had cause to marvel at their pa-
tient endurance of similar long marches, without food or refresh-
ment of any kind.
Had we come direct to Daly Nazir, from Eklett, the distance
is estimated at seven farsangs and a half; but our blunder made
it a whole day. The village is a wretched place, nearly in ruins,
and almost depopulated; the few inhabitants who remain being
a race of thieves, and having no ketkhoda, their reception of
us was perfectly in harmony. with their character. During the
early part of the night, they purloined some of our horse-
furniture; and when a more advanced hour gave them hope of
finding us quite off our guard, they began with similar inten-
tions to approach our quarters. But the dogs gave the alarm
before they got near enough to be within reach of our arms;
478 VILLAGE OF KISHLOCK.
else, probably, they would have carried off a very different load
from that they anticipated. On our arrival, they had not only
denied us every article demanded on the King's order; but, on
my directing the mehmandar to give up the point, and pay
them for all we wanted, they refused even then to bring pro-
visions, till I had given them the money in hand. Our pur-
veyor's indignation could hardly be suppressed; and he hinted
to me, that had not the whole of our party been so exhausted
on our entrance amongst them, and therefore little calculated to
support his measures, the rascals should not have come off so
easily. -
June 11th. To give our animals due rest, after so long a
march, we did not start to-day till near four o'clock, P. M.,
taking a course south 45° east, over a very uneven road, owing
to the plain swelling in that direction into small low hills of
sand and reddish earth. Having ridden about six miles, we
passed close to the village of Kishlock; a much more civilised-
looking place than the one we had just left. Though part of it
was in ruins, yet the houses that were inhabited appeared less
like hovels; and a little brook providing them plenty of water,
the natives had surrounded their dwellings with neatly cultivated
spots, bearing barley and other grain. The stream was a rich
regale to ourselves. At no great distance from this place, we
came up to an extensive burying-ground, with three very lofty
tombs, domed a-top, rising from amidst the more common
memorials of the dead. These prominent objects were in ruins;
but they seemed monuments of some residence of men having
been in their neighbourhood, of more considerable dimensions
than a village. Indeed, the immense accumulation of graves
bore the same evidence; though no other trace of a departed
VILLAGE OF GAZION. 479
town remained visible. From this spot we travelled onwards
through a long narrow hollow in the plain, affording good arable
and pasture land; which, a person in our company told us, had
formerly, he understood, been in general cultivation; but now
was left to total neglect, excepting in the immediate vicinity of
the village of Gazion, where the villagers took advantage of the
soil as far as they needed, either by tillage, or turning their cat-
tle to graze. The hollow reaches almost from Daly Nazir, to
the latter village, where we were to halt; a distance of four
farsangs. But as we advanced into the deeper recesses of this
comfortable shelter from the arid surface of the plain, I observed
several groups of black tents; and learnt that they were not
filled by Eelauts, but with the family of the Ketkhoda of Gazion,
and all the respectable inhabitants of the place in his train.
Not a creature had been left within the broiling walls of the
village, but those who were too poor to afford themselves dwell-
ings in the encampment; and when we approached the gates,
which was just as the sun dropt, scarcely a living soul appeared,
to answer our demands respecting provisions and a lodging.
My mehmandar made up for his quiescence of the day before,
by vociferating loudly the royal demands; but, after all, we
were obliged to take up our quarters in the mesched without walls,
and wait an hour before provender could becollected for the cattle.
I had made an addition to our party of a man and horse,whom I
had brought even from the thievish village of Daly Nazir; but hav-
ing so grievously lost the road in our way thither, I thought it
prudent to hire a guide there, and promise to pay him well, should
he conduct us safely in our route over the plain. The fellow
performed his task faithfully; being allowed no temptation to do
otherwise; and, from his knowledge of the tracks, he certainly
480 TRAVELLING IN PERSIA.
shortened our distance considerably. In quality of his office,
he rode in the van; and during our progress we passed, at
several times, different bands of ill-looking people, who were
travelling to a village more to the north-east, and whose evident
inquiries about us, as they greeted their old comrade, excited
something more than my curiosity, and I bluntly asked him
whether those people were of a description to attack and rob a
single traveller, or even ourselves were we less determinately
armed?—“Yes,” replied he, “and we of our village would do the
same ; and so would all in the plain : we none of us make
scruple when fair opportunities occur.” - •
. The avowal, at least, was honest, of a most resolute principle
of knavery ; and, showing as frankly on our part that no op-
portunities, fair or foul, would be afforded, we got on well
together, till the necessity for the coalition ceased; which was
not for some days after this conversation took place.
Taking travelling on the whole in Persia, after leaving the
immediate surveillance of the Shah or the Prince Royal, it is
nearly as full of danger from thieves and robbers as any part of
the Caucasus. We are obliged to keep strict guard, both day
and night, from purloiners, if we are in quarters; from ambushed
plunderers, if in open day; and, with the additional incumbrance
of a hot sun, while armed like Robinson Crusoe. • * * *
June 12th. That we might recover the lost time of our
wanderings on the 10th, and the consequent lengthened rest
during the greater part of the day on the 11th, I would not
linger to-day, till the cool of the evening, but determined to set
off as early as our people could be ready. Still, however, one
thing and another occurred to delay my little troop ; so that we
were not mounted till nearly ten o'clock, with the sun's scorching
SUPERSTITION. - - A81
beams direct in our faces, and the comfortable prospect of their
fervour increasing every hour. The track we were to go, being
partly through a most intricate ridge of hills, or rather moun-
tains, which divided the plain, it was represented to us as most
formidably dangerous, from hordes of banditti, who infested
the passes in every direction. Several peasants in the neigh-
bourhood of our menzil, hearing of our destination, and wanting
to travel that way, begged to be admitted to the protection of
our company; the request was immediately acceded, and the men
mounted; but just in the moment of our setting out, a fine
menacing cavalcade by such an accession to our numbers, one of
the volunteers happened to sneeze: the dreadful omen suddenly
stopped the whole party; it was a sign foreboding evil, and no
arguments could prevail on them to remove that day. Absurd as
it is, we find traces of the like superstition amongst the ancient
nations of Europe, as well as of the East. But the portent
differs according to circumstances. Xenophon was elected to
the rank of General, in compliance with such an omen ; and the
same army who had obeyed that signal, hesitated to attack the
enemy while intimidated by an untimely sneeze. A similar
sign in an animal, adjudged the empire of Persia to one of the
greatest of its monarchs, Darius Hystaspes, who had agreed with
six princes, his rivals for the sovereignty, to mount their horses,
and ride next morning together to a certain spot, to meet the
rising sun ; and, when there, whichever horse neighed first, the
crown was to belong to his rider. The groom of Darius so well
understood his business, that his master's horse no sooner
saw the spot, than he gave the omen, and the empire was
adjudged. .
The remnants of these old superstitions are not confined to
the vulgar in Persia, as they may be with us; even the present
VOL. I. 3 Q
482 INSTITUTION OF CARAVAN SARIES.
Majesty of this great empire will not leave his capital, undertake
an expedition, nor receive an ambassador, till he has had in-
timation from his astrologer of the fortunate hour for the act.
Before all minor transactions, the people in general take what
they call a fall; namely, (in the old fashion of dipping in Virgil,)
opening the Koran, Hafiz, or any venerated author, and the
sense of the passage on which their eyes first fall, directs their
actions accordingly. They put great faith in the virtue of
charms, which they buy of the learned in the stars, and bind,
not merely about their own persons, but those of their horses ;
Some are composed of prayers, sewn up in morsels of linen in
the shapes of lozenges, circles, triangles, &c. The more costly
amulets are certain sentences from the Koran, exquisitely en-
graved on cornelian, and which are usually worn by persons of
rank round their neck or arms. The lower orders have ta-
lismans, to avert the influence of evil eyes, curses, &c. In short,
they neither look, move, nor speak, without attention to some
occult fatality or other. .
Having, therefore, left our ill-omened friends behind, staring
after us as if they pitied our rashness, we proceeded on our road,
which lay as usual south 45° east, and was a continuation of the
plain over sandy undulations. After nearly an hour and half’s
ride, we came to the banks of a full and rapid stream pouring
from the mountains not far distant to the south-west. The
stream is crossed by a small stone bridge of three arches; and on
Some high ground, almost close to the bridge, stand the ruins of
a very ancient caravansary. The form of the building, as well
as the style of its masonry, proclaim it to have been of the earlier
ages of Persia; and, probably, it was the work of Cyrus himself;
who, Xenophon tells us, was the first institutor of these places of
rest. “For, observing how far a horse could well travel in a day,
APPREHENSIONS OF A SURPRISE. 483
he built stables at those distances, and supplied them with per-
sons to keep them in charge.” At present, this venerable build
ing bears the name of Madré-i-Sulieman. - .
About a mile further, we reached the foot of the dangerous
pass so much dreaded by the peasantry. On entering it, our
guide warned us to have all eyes on the look-out, and to be
otherwise on our guard, at the same time seasoning his advice
as we advanced with a thousand murderous histories of horrible
deeds committed by bands, from the various tribes who unre-
mittingly infest those heights. At first, the ascent was rugged
and steep, but it gradually became more gentle, opening on to
ranges of wider acclivities, rising over the other till they ter- -
minated in a sort of narrow vale at the summit. The sides
were covered with large projecting rocks, many were scattered
loosely on the ground; but from every part, thick bushes grew
up, and low stunted trees; all excellent ambushes for the ap-
prehended banditti. I cannot say that I did not look for the
sparkle of some lurking eye beneath them; or, perhaps, at the
turning of the cliffs, to receive some intimation of a bolder
enemy; but nothing of the sort was heard or seen; no object
appeared to molest us, but the almost insupportable sun; and
under it we continued to march, three hours and a half, across
the mountains, without a breath of air moving, to cool our
scorched skins, or a drop of water to slake a thirst that was
become intolerable. The poor dogs, overcome with drowth,
actually lay down again and again, and howled in such apparent
agony, that I began to fear they would go mad. About five miles
from our anticipated menzil, we commenced a descent at a point
where the road divides ; one division, branching to the right, leads
to the western part of the valley of Mourg-aub; the other, turning
- 3 Q 2
484 - MOURG-AUB.
to the left, conducts to the village of that name. This was our
way; and following it for nearly another broiling hour, at last
came out at the fountain of one of the numerous springs which,
flowing downwards, fertilise the country below. It was like an
angel in our path ; the pure and delicious water proving an
animating refreshment to us all. Not far from this point, the
beautiful little rivulet becomes a considerable stream ; and
taking a turn round the hills at a short distance to the eastward,
finds its way to the valley, where, washing the walls of Mourg-
aub, and flowing along, it meets several brooks; amongst others,
that which I had seen bathing the foundations of the caravansary
of Madré-i-Sulieman : and thus having increased to a river, it
winds south-east by the foot of the hills, passes the village of
Sharak, thence meanders through the vales of Kummeen and
Sewan; receiving numerous mountain-streams on one side, while
it is drained in almost the same proportion by channels of
irrigation on the other. I am told that the general name of this
deviously wandering stream, is Kur-aub ; a rather uncommon
instance of uniformity, these minor rivers usually varying their
appellations with the tracts through which they flow. This
stream falls into the Bund-Emir, (the southern Araxes,) at some
distance from Tackt-i-J emsheed, or Persepolis. Ö
... We reached Mourg-aub, our place of rest, by half-past four
o'clock P. M., and took up our quarters in what is called the
Mehman–Khanah, or house of guests; a dirty dilapidated hole,
but too near one of the objects of my journey, the transcendantly
superb remains of antiquity in this part of the empire, for me to
think twice of the discomforts of my lodging. The accurate pen
of Mr. Morier, in describing these at Mourg-aub, the first in rot-
ation, had redoubled my impatience to examine them myself;
RUINS AT MOURG-AUB. 485
and halting two days at the village, I found nothing to regret
afterwards, in having passed so many hours under the burning
rays of a Persian summer sun, exploring treasures to which my
countryman had given so interesting a key.
June 13th. On mounting my horse this morning, for my
excursion, I took a southern direction down the valley for
about four miles ; when, quitting the road, and turning to the
right, my attention was arrested by a view of the first grand ob-
ject amongst these ruins. It is the most northern of them all,
and not far from the road. The natives have given it the name
of Tackt-i-Sulieman, or the throne of Sulieman.
It appears to have been the platform of a building, and con-
sists of a mass of hewn stones raised nearly to a level with the
summit of a rocky hill, to whose side it adheres. The materials
are of white marble, put together with a labour and nicety scarcely
to be supposed. Every stone is carefully clamped to its neigh-
bour, on their upper horizontal surface, and at a small distance
from the perpendicular face. The great front looks to the north-
west, and measures in length about 300 feet; its sides, from the
front towhere they touch the hill, 298 feet. At the distance of
72 feet, is a retiring right-angle of 54 feet, which, after running
again in a direct line of 168 feet, forms a corresponding face to
the opposite angle of 72 feet; leaving 48 feet to complete the
whole of the northern and southern faces. The height of the
great front is 38 feet 6 inches, formed of 14 blocks of marble,
all of the same thickness, namely 2 feet 9 inches. Their lengths
vary from 7, 14, 13, to 19 inches. They are beautifully chi-
selled, and have a rough surface over each, about an inch from their
edges. Their breadth also is variable, from 3, 4, to 5 feet. This
imperishable casing-structure has been filled up, to form a level
486 RUINS AT MOURG-AUB.
at the top, with different-sized pieces of the native rock, a dark
lime-stone. The marble must have been brought from some con-
siderable distance,there beingnone certainly in the neighbourhood;
and the nearest I could hear of, is that of the mountains of Yezd.
I remarked on every block a peculiar figure, probably to guide
their situations on the spot of erection; a proof the stones were
adapted for their places at the quarry. I have sketched one or
two ; and it is not unlikely that these characters were the
numeral signs in use at the time this building was constructed;
and not, as some suppose, mere arbitrary scratches, at the whim
of the workmen. The added marks on the several stones, seem
throughout to agree with their relative situations, and are com-
monly placed near one of the corners. Great depredations have
been made on this, as well as on all the other ancient buildings
of the plain, by the rapacity of the natives of some former period,
tearing away the masonry to obtain the iron by which it was
bound. Wherever this has been effected, large holes are left;
which the people of the present day attribute to the footsteps of
the devils, who of old, they say, kept their court in its vicinity.
The top of the platform is now strewed over with fragments of
** the hill, and very much sunk in the center. I examined it closely,
in order to discover some trace of columns, but could find none;
and not even the smallest bit of broken marble. However, that
is no conclusive reason against the possibility of a superstructure
having once existed there; though of what kind,—palace, temple,
or fortress, it might be difficult to conjecture. From its position
amongst the heights, and the ease with which it is ascendable on
all sides, the idea of its ever having been a place of strength,
could not be tenable. Besides, its general appearance is rather that
of extending the horizontal surface of the rock above, than to
A. ſº
B. Zºe Zemp/e
C. Fºrst.Stone Cozzarº,
D. High round Pºlar &c
E. A’eman. ofa Zemp/e
F. Build” called a Caravan.very,
G. Zomb of A/adre º.ºz/eºnar,
J/ourgaub & rºaded from A ºr a
direction. Aſ 30 A. dºranz about 4 iſºzy.
3.
... G.
D
o is
*
- * //
-
º bºnº of the Pass
Zondon, Æð/º/eºſ ºf Zorºmazz & Cº.2/. -
77te whoſe of thºr //arry
in Galavation of orn, not a
.Stone or Peºtºge of Ruin to be
traced, except where noted.
Anorared twº ºa/, Bury ºr ºom”



PASARGADAE. 487
form a base for any heavy bulwark on its summit; and moreover,
on no point whatever of its adjacent cliffs, are there any vestiges
of supporting fortification. The hill unquestionably commands
the entrance to the valley, or rather plain of Mourg-aub, now re-
ceived to be that of Pasargadae; but the strong natural barriers
which the mountains present to the south and to the north, render
additional walls unnecessary. Nevertheless, Pliny calls this spot
“the Castle of Pasargadae, occupied by the Magi, and wherein is
the tomb of Cyrus:”—“Inde ad orientem Magi obtinent Pas-
sagardas castellum, in quo Cyre sepulcrum est.” Plin. vi. 26.
The city of Pasargadae may, therefore, rather be considered a
holy city, consecrated to the colleges of the Magi, and the officers
of religion, than as a stationary royal residence. And nothing can
be more probable, since it was built by Cyrus to commemorate
the great victories which made him king, than that he should con-
secrate it to the gods. Cyrus, according to Xenophon, made seven
visits into Persia Proper, his original kingdom, after his accession
to the vast empire to which he gave its name; and although that
historian does not specify the particular place in his paternal
land, whither he went to perform his accustomed religious
duties; yet, as he was the founder of Pasargadae, avowedly as a
memorial of his national achievements,what can we more naturall y
suppose, than that Pasargadae would be the scene of such rites?
The idea seems to be corroborated by the fact, that it was long
the custom with his successors, on their accession to the throme,
not only to receive here the usual insignia of government, but,
attended by their nobles and priests, to make the most solemn
sacrifices on the summit of the mountain. Why therefore may
we not consider this immense platform (evidently raised to en-
large that of the hill) the spot on which the altar, priests, and
488 - RUINS AT MOURG-AUB.
\
royal party stood, during the awful ceremonies of their religious
convocation ? - -
I now descended into the lower ground, which on all sides
seemed in the highest cultivation ; and at the distance of a quar-
ter of a mile from what I would denominate the sacred platform
for the great royal altar, and in a direction south 45° west, I
came to a square tower-like building, which Mr. Morier calls the
Fire-temple. It is formed of the same lasting materials with
the former structure, the blocks of marble not being much less
in size; but the extent of the edifice does not seem in propor-
tion to the magnitude of its component parts; its square not
measuring more than 9 feet along each face; and its height not
appearing to exceed 49 feet, if we may calculate on there being
no difference in the measurement of the stones which compose
the wall. From the lowest range to the highest I could reach,
each block regularly measured 3 feet 6 inches; and by them, I
calculated the height to the summit, fourteen stones, comprising
the number in the elevation. Something like a door marks the
front to the north-west; and the remains of a projecting cornice
finishes its top. The building has been injured in like manner
with that of the sacred platform. Having inspected it to my
satisfaction, I proceeded another quarter of a mile due south, to
a third object of interest ; a square pillar, of only two stones, one
over the other; the lower one is 12 feet high ; the other, by
guess, I should suppose 7 or 8 feet; the whole terminated above
with some broken work like a ledge. The faces were each
nearly 4 feet wide; but in that to the west, both the stones were
deeply concave; the lower one more than half in its diameter,
and considerably more than half in its length. These excava-
tions do not appear to have been made for any other purpose than
COURT OF THE DEEWS. 489
to render the transportation of such immense shapes of marble,
more easy; probably, these hollows were afterwards filled up with
lighter slabs, or this end of the colossal pillar was connected with
some other masonry. The three remaining faces are beauti-
fully smooth, and on that to the north, is a short inscription of
four lines, in the arrow-headed character, perfectly uninjured,
and so clear and sharp, that it seemed scarcely possible to mis-
take a wedge. This I copied with as much care and accuracy as
lies in the power of an eye practised to very minute ob-
servations. On returning to my quarters I compared my draw-
ing with those made by Mr. Morier and Sir Gore Ousely of the
same inscription, and found that we all differed, in some of the
lines, from each other. But, on this subject, I shall speak more
particularly hereafter.
In proceeding south-east, for rather more than a quarter of a
mile, no vestige of ruins appeared, till I reached a low mound,
which bore evident marks of having formerly been ascended by
steps. To this, the inhabitants of the plain give the name
of the Court of the Deevs or devils. From the centre of it, rises
a perfectly round column, smooth as the finest polish ; but
the base of which is totally buried in surrounding rubbish. The
length of the shaft cannot be less than from 40 to 50 feet; and
is composed of four pieces of marble. The lower division com-
prises almost half the whole height, and in circumference mea-
sures 10 feet. I should imagine that the column has been higher
than at present, there being no fragment of a capital discernible
at its top. A spacious marble platform supports this immense
fragment of a column; the square shape of its area. being
marked by four pillars of similar style and dimensions to the one
I had recently passed. The four are distant from each other
VOL. I. 3 R
490 COURT OF THE DEEWS.
108 feet. Those that denote the north-west face of the building,
are not much dilapidated; but the ruinous state of the place
alone showed where the opposite ones had been, by baring their
foundations. The most northern of the pair, which are in the best
preservation, is composed of three stones, surmounted by a sort of
cornice; the whole being 15 feet in height, and the three stones
all concave on one side, like those in the insulated pillar I had first
seen. These hollows face the north-east ; on the contrary side
is an inscription near the top, corresponding exactly with the one
I had transcribed from the preceding pillar. In fact, on narrowly
examining every inscription which labeled various parts of
these ruins, I found not a single character differ in any one. A
circumstance, I positively ascertained, by holding my first copy in
my hand, while I followed with my pencil the lines on all the other
marbles. The other still existing column is much broken, there
being only two blocks remaining. Its inscription faces the other,
looking north-east. A third mass of marble, in a yet more mu-
tilated state, stands 30 feet in front of these, dividing exactly the
middle of the face of the square. A couple of stones, are all the
fragments of this elevation ; they are excavated like the others;
and its inscription is on the north-western side. I searched for
any trace of a wall that might have connected the corner pillars
of the edifice, but none could be found; hence, I conjecture the
place to have been completely open to the air; and, from the
loftiness of the centre column, it seems hardly possible for it to
have had a roof. In viewing the plain from the elevation of this
building, it appears one rich velvet of vegetation; without the
interruption of the smallest unproductive spot, rendered barren
by the fallen rubbish of decayed stone buildings. I mention this,
ANCIENT TEMPLE. " 491
as an extraordinary peculiarity; that amongst so many fine ruins,
there should be no trace of minor ones between. .
Perceiving to the south-east another columnar appearance, I
rode in that direction for half a mile; and on arriving found an
immense single elevation of the kind, belonging to a former edi-
fice, now entirely swept away, and which, but for the fragment
which attracted my attention, could only be marked by the bases
on which stood its ancient columns. Its shape is a parallelo-
gram, one hundred and fifty feet by eighty-one; two rows of
pedestals divide it, each composed of four stones, the whole
(with the exception of one of white marble, which stands
the third on the north-east range, and is six feet square,) being
of the dark rock of the country. The sizes of these are irregu-
lar, from three to four feet; the bases in one direction were
about fifteen feet distant from each other ; but in the transverse
way, towards the centre, they left an opening of twenty-one feet,
and an equal space from side to side. I know not how to ac-
count for the inequality of their dimensions, unless we may sup-
pose some were intended to support an elevated floor, and others
to sustain columns. The white marble base being of the greatest
size and height, and finest materials, might form the pedestal of
the deity of the place, if we are to consider it a temple; and if
not, still the image of a god or goddess might find a station there.
If this tract is allowed to be the site of the city established by
Cyrus, this very edifice may be that which Plutarch mentions (Vitae
Artax. x.) as the place where the Persian kings, his successors,
received consecration; and which, he observes, was dedicated to
a goddess in whose guidance was the affairs of war. By the general
plan, there appears to have been two entrances; one from the
north-east, the other in the opposite quarter. They are both
- 3 R 2
492 BAS-RELIEF PILLAR.
twelve feet wide, showing something like a step, advancing beyond
the outer line of the floor. At about six feet distant from the
north-east side of the building, and standing out in aparallel point
to its centre, rises the square pillar which had drawn me hither.
It appears perfectly distinct from all others, no trace of a second
being found; one single block of marble forms it, and, as far as
I could judge, it is full fifteen feet high. On examining it, I was
delightedly surprised at discovering a sculpture in bas-relief,
(Plate XIII.) occupying nearly the whole length of the north-west
side of the pillar, surmounted by a compartment containing a
repetition of the usual inscription. I lost no time in measuring
and drawing this invaluable piece of antiquity.
It consists of a profile figure of a man, clothed in a garment
shaped something like a woman's shift, fitting rather close to the
body, and reaching from the neck to the ankles. His right arm
is put forward, half raised from the elbow; and, as far as I could
judge from the mutilated state of its extremity, the hand
is open and elevated. His head is covered with a cap, close to
the skull, sitting low behind, almost to the neck, and showing
a small portion of hair beneath it. A circle, of what I could not
make out, is just over the ear, and three lines marked down the -
back of the head, seem to indicate braidings. His beard is short,
bushy, and curled with the neatest regularity; the face is so
much broken, only the contour can be traced. From the bend
of the arm to the bottom of the garment, runs a border of roses,
carved in the most beautiful style, from which flows a waving
fringe, extending round the skirt of the dress; the whole being
executed with the most delicate precision. From his shoulders
issue four large wings; two, spreading on each side, reach high
above his head; the others open downwards, and nearly touch
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BAS-REEIEF. . 493
his feet. The chiseling of the feathers is exquisite; but the
most singular part of the sculpture is the projection of two large
horns from the crown of his head; they support a row of three
balls or circles, within which we see smaller ones described.
Three vessels, not unlike our European decanters, and regu-
larly fluted, rest upon these balls, being crested again by three
smaller circles. On each side of the whole, like supporters to a
coat of arms, stand two small creatures resembling mummies of the
Ibis, but having a bent termination to their swathed form. Over
all is the inscription. The figure, from head to foot, measures
seven feet; the width of the stone where he stands is five feet:
two feet from that line reaches the present level of the ground.
Like all the other pillars I have seen in this valley, a deep and
long concavity runs nearly the whole length of the shaft on the
side contrary to that where the figure stands. The pillar has
been much broken towards the top, but the bas-relief, with the
exception of the face and hands, has scarcely suffered. The
proportions of the figure are not in the least defective, nor can
any fault be found with its taste, being perfectly free from the
dry wooden appearance we generally find in Egyptian works of
the kind; and, in fact, it reminded me so entirely of the grace-
ful simplicity of design which characterises the best Grecian
friezes, that I considered it a duty to the history of the art, to
copy the forms before me, exactly as I saw ; without allowing my
pencil to add, or diminish, or to alter a line. May I be excused
in repeating here, that such undeviating accuracy to the utmost
of my power, is the principle to which I bound myself in the
execution of all the drawings I made in the East.
To form a conjecture of what this figure was absolutely intended
to represent, is far beyond my pretensions. It will be seen, how-
494 BAS-RELIEF.
ever, to differ materially from the winged figures at Nakshi-Roos-
tam, and Persepolis; which learned men suppose to mean the good
genii of the personages over whom they hover. Professor Heeren,
in his work on the Policy, &c. of the Nations of Antiquity, is of
this opinion. But from the peculiar attributes of the figure in
question, its vast quadruple wings, long and richly decorated robe,
together with the numerous symbols resting on his ample horns,
which latter appendage has long been an oriental type of regal
strength, I am led to think that this may represent a superior spirit;
perhaps the tutelary genius of the country in general, as the others
may be the particular genii for individual persons. He faces the
temple, with his hands uplifted and open, as if in the act of be-
nediction. If the inscription at the top of the pillar had been
different from the one so often repeated in the temple, I should
have flattered myself it referred to the figure; and, by the assist-
ance of the invaluable talents of Professor Grottefund in decy-
phering the cuneiform character, might have had hopes of eluci-
dating so curious a relic of antiquity. But I cannot omit stating,
that on some of the bas-reliefs in the great temple of the Isle of
Philae in Egypt, several figures are found, bearing attributes on
their heads very similar to those on the horned mitre just de-
scribed. I have sketched one of these emblematic sort of crowns,
(Plate XLIII. 6.) to show how close the resemblance is ; and, con-
sequently, how analogous the ideas of the Persians were to the
Egyptians, in some of their typical representations of this class of
spiritual beings. The Egyptian figure to which this head-dress
belongs, has wings growing from its arms; but many figures, who
have no pinions at all attached to their persons, possess the em-
blematic crown on their heads. Yet we find, that wherever it is
worn, the appearance of wings is not wholly omitted; this attribute
GENII AND CHERUBIM. 495
of swiftness being disposed somewhere, as an ornament on the
robe; or, when that is not the case, an Ibis, by standing close to
the person, lends the symbol of his pinions, to preserve the
intended image. But, with the exception of the mitre, there
is nothing I have ever seen or read of, which bears so strong a
resemblance to the whole of the figure on the pillar, as the
ministering, or guardian angels, described under the name of Sera-
phim or Cherubim, by the different writers in the Bible ; and, if
we are to ascribe these erections to Cyrus, how readily may he
have found the model of his Genii, either in the spoil of the
temple of Jerusalem, which he saw amongst the treasures at Ba-
bylon ; or from the Jewish descriptions, in the very word of pro-
phecy which mentions him by name; and which, doubtless, would
be in the possession of Daniel, and open to the eye of the mo-
narch to whom it so immediately referred. I will, without re-
marking further, merely give the descriptive passages, as they
occur in the Sacred Writings; and leave my readers to compare
them with this bas-relief in the temple of Pasargadae. First,
where Moses gives direction for the formation of the ark, that is
to contain the tables of the law : — -
“And thou shalt make two cherubim of gold, of beaten work
shalt thou make them, in the two ends of the mercy-seat. And
the cherubim shall stretch forth their wings on high, covering the
mercy-seat with their wings, and their faces shall look one to an-
other; toward the mercy-seat, shall the faces of the cherubim be.”
Exodus, chap. xxv. verses 18. and 20. f
Second, where Solomon builds the temple of Jerusalem, an
ornaments the sanctuary or oracle, where the ark was to be placed:
“And within the oracle, he made two cherubim of olive-tree,
each ten cubits high. And five cubits was the one wing of the
496 CHERUBIM.
cherub, and five cubits the other wing of the cherub: from the
uttermost part of the one wing, to the uttermost part of the other,
were ten cubits. And the other cherub was ten cubits, and so
was it of the other cherub. And he set the cherubim within the
inner house; and they stretched forth the wings of the cherubim,
so that the wing of the one touched the one wall, and the wing
of the other cherub touched the other wall; and their wings
touched one another in the midst of the house. And he over-
laid the cherubim with gold. And he carved all the walls of the
house round about, with carved figures of cherubim, and palm-
trees, and open flowers, within and without.” I Kings, chap. vi.
from verse 23 to verse 29. “And the wings of the two cheru-
bim spread themselves forth twenty cubits; and they stood on
their feet, and their faces were inward.” 2 Chronicles, chap. \
iii. verse 13. The succeeding description is from the prophetic
books: -
“ In the year that King Uzziah died, I saw also the Lord sit-
ting upon a throne, high and lifted up, and his train filled the
temple. Above it stood the seraphim ; each one had six wings:
with twain he covered his face, and with twain he covered his
feet, and with twain he did fly.” Isaiah, chap. vi. verses 1, 2.
Indeed, wings appear to have been the peculiar attribute of mi-
nistering spirits, being symbolical of their offices as divine mes-
sengers or agents; and, as a parallel instance in the pagan mytho-
logy, we find that Mercury and Cupid only, possess any; the
one being the messenger of Jove, the other, the busy agent of
Venus. # -
At the distance of about a mile from the temple of the bas-re-
lief, to the south-west, stand the remains of what the people of
the country call a caravansary. Some appearances evidence that
TOMB CALLED MESCHED MADRE-I-SULIEMAN. 497
such was the use to which it was applied, in times much later
than its origin; and a Saracenic porch and inscription, show to
what race this adaption may be ascribed. On closely examining
the whole of the lower part of the building, the same architect
who built the temple, was discernible here. The materials are
marble, and each stone hewn with equal care, and fitted with as
scrupulous a nicety. The plan is that of a quadrangle, of about
60 or 80 feet on every side; a great gate appearing to have opened
from it to the south-east. A continued range of small dark
chambers, even with the ground, run along the four sides of this
square, with each a door, scarcely four feet high, opening into
the quadrangle; over the flat lintel of these cell-like entrances,
lies a huge stone on each, some much larger, every way, than the
doors were in length.
About two hundred yards southward from these remains,
rises the singular structure commonly known as the tomb of the
mother of Sulieman, and, in the language of the country, called
Mesched Madrè-i-Sulieman.
When the natives do not ascribe any extraordinary place, of
whose real founder they are ignorant, to the devils or deevs, they
usually pronounce it to have been the work of Solomon. There
cannot be a more corroborating instance of the universal fame,
over the East, of the great Jewish monarch of that name, than
this widely-spread, and abiding memory of his wisdom and
power, even in the countries into which the people of his nation
were so often led, in the humiliated character of captives. His
seal, is esteemed a talisman to dissolve all hostile enchantments,
and of a potency to make the whole world of genii at the com-
mand of its wearer. But the Saracenic vestiges scattered amongst
these ruins, lead one to conclude that the Soloman or Sulieman,
VOL. I. 3 S
498 - THE TOMB.
intended to be commemorated here, was of no older date than
Sulieman the fourteenth caliph of the posterity of Ali; who,
having succeeded to the sovereignty of Persia, with that high
sacerdotal dignity, in the year of Hegira 96. (A. D. 7 15.) may be
supposed to have visited this city in the valley of Moarg—aub
or Pasargadae, and like many other great men, “put his name”
upon the works of his still more illustrious predecessors. His
mother who, tradition says, is entombed here, was called Wal-
lada, a daughter of the sacred family; but as her son, like herself,
was born far from these lands, and during his short, though brilliant
reign, was wholly employed in the west, we cannot conjecture
what could bring the good lady to lay her bones here. When
Mandelo passed through this vale in 1638, he mentions that a
village not far from her reputed burying-place, bore her name;
and that “on the wall of the chapel is an Arabic inscription,
bearing the words Mader-i-Sulieman " As all this Saracenic tra-
dition, and inscription, cannot contradict the opposite argument,
presented in the ancient style of the ruins themselves, and sup-
ported by the collateral evidence of the Greek historians; I
would suppose it possible, that some palace, or village, or even
the grave of Mandane the mother of Cyrus, might have dis-
tinguished this his newly established city; and to the memory
of her name, obliterated by time, has succeeded the legend of
the mother of Sulieman. The confusion of circumstances, places,
and persons, which reigns throughout the Persian notices of .
their history, is sufficient to countenance a much less plausible
conjecture; particularly, when we consider whose tomb (almost
proved to demonstration) it is, to which they have given the
name of Madrè-i-Sulieman.
This interesting monument stands on an eminence not far
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THE TOMB. 499 -
from the foot of the hills that bound the plain to the south-west.
(Plate XIV.) A wide area, marked outwardly by the broken shafts
of 24 circular columns, surrounds the building in a square shape.
Each column is three feet three inches in diameter. Six com-
plete each face of the square, distant from each other fourteen
feet. Seventeen columns are still erect, but heaped round with
rubbish, and barbarously connected with a wall of mud. With-
in this area stands the tomb. The great base, on which it rests,
is composed of immense blocks of the most beautiful white
marble, rising in steps; at the bottom of the lowest Step, two sides
of the base measure forty feet; the other two sides, forty-four. It
first rises five feet six inches, so forming the lowest step. The se-
cond begins two feet, interiorly from the extreme edge of the first,
rising three feet six inches, and receding one foot ten inches; at
which point the third step rises three feet four inches, and re-
cedes one foot ten inches; the fourth step rises one foot eleven
inches, and recedes one foot ten inches; the fifth, rises one foot
ten inches, and recedes one foot ten inches; the sixth rises and
recedes in the same proportion, touching the walls of the tomb,
which stands on its platform. Thus, a succession of gigantic
steps, completes, in a beautiful pyramidal shape, the pedestal
of this royal tomb, majestic in its simplicity and vastness. At
the base of the lowest step, a projection, or sort of skirting-stone,
runs all round the foundation of the building, almost even with
the ground above, and not striking very deep into it below; pro-
bably to what was the ancient level of the earth. g
The charge of this interesting place is given to the females of
a neighbouring village; and none but that sex are permitted to
enter the supposed repository of the remains of the mother of
Sulieman. Two of these fair guardians, who were rather stricken
3 s 2
500 THE TOMB.
in years, attended me to the building, and were very impatient
at the length of my investigations; however, I would not be satis-
fied till I saw the interior; and with much difficulty I persuaded
them to admit me. The door opens into the north-western
side of the tomb ; the whole width of the side being sixteen
feet ten inches; of which measurement, the entrance dividing
it, occupied two feet ten inches. The height of the door
was exactly four feet. Four layers of stones composed the ele-
vation of this superstructure. The first gave the sides of the
entrance; the second served as its lintel; the third presented a sim-
ple projecting cornice; and, what may be called the fourth, formed
its pediment and sloping roof. Just over the door are two ledges,
which, from their parallel, I should suppose held an inscription.
When I entered, I found that the thickness of the walls was one
solid single mass of stone, measuring five feet from the outside
to within. The extent of the chamber was seven feet wide, ten
long, and eight in height. The floor was composed of two im-
mense slabs, which joined nearly in the middle of the chamber,
crossing it from right to left. But I lament to say, that im-
mediately opposite the door, both the floor and the wall are much
injured by the several invaders of this ancient tomb. The marble
surfaces are cruelly broken ; and in the floor particularly, deep
holes are left, which plainly show where large iron fastenings
have been forcibly torn away. Doubtless their corresponding
points attached some other mass to this quarter of the building;
similar depredation being marked in the marble of the wall, I
searched every where for some trace of a cuneiform inscription,
but invain; the placewhere most likely such a one would have been,
if any existed within the tomb, is on the right of the entrance;
where it has probably been obliterated to make room for the pre-
THE TOMB. 501
sent open scroll in the Saracenic taste. It is composed of a nar-
row sort of border, thickly ornamented with flowers and other
involvements; and interwoven with this intricate line of work, there
are certainly Arabic characters, which I do not doubt forms the
inscription that has been read Mader-i-Sulieman. It would have
been useless for me to attempt copying it, in the little time allowed
me; the letters being so confused amongst the ornaments; and
the female sentinels without, from their fear of surprise, making
an incessant clamour for my egress. The lines which contain
this inscription border, extend along the whole of that side of the
wall, taking, near the middle of it, a form thus:
the breadth between the lines is not more than T
two inches and a half. Some future traveller, I hope may be
allowed to copy it, whose intimate knowledge of the language
would facilitate the achievement; it being a task of skill, as
well as patience, to disentangle Arabic characters from the
labyrinth of their ornaments. -
Not a scratch of any other kind, save the cruel dents
from the hammers of the barbarians, interrupted the even
polish of the three remaining sides. The roof is flat, and
nearly black; so are all the sides of the chamber, excepting
that which faces the door; and that, with the floor, is perfectly
white. Man has done all towards the mutilation of this monu-
ment; which, from the simplicity of its form, and the solidity
of its fabric, seemed calculated to withstand the accidents of
nature, till the last shock, when her existence would be no
I(\OT62, - -
The learned world are indebted to Mr. Morier for the first
supposition that the ruins scattered over the vale of Mourg-aub,
are those of Pasargadae; for the unanswerable arguments which
/
502 TOMB OF CYRUS.
establish his supposition; and for the first accurate accounts of
the two most corroborating proofs, namely, the general cunei-
form inscription found on the columns, and the details of the
tomb I have just described. In comparing what has just been
said of this structure, with the account given by Arrian of the
Tomb of Cyrus at Pasargadae, the resemblance between each is
too exact not to bear an instant conviction that they are portraits
of one and the same place. There are some trifling differences,
which no more contradict the main argument, of place and pe-
culiar form, than painting two pictures of a man, one with his
hat on, and the other without it, would authorize a spectator to
assert they were meant for different persons. In order to illus-
trate the small variation between the present remains of the
tomb, and what it appeared in the time of Arrian, I shall quote
his own words. He writes from the testimony of Aristobulus,
who had visited the spot.
“The tomb of Cyrus was in the royal paradise of Pasargadae,
round which a grove of various trees were planted. ' It was sup-
plied with water, and its fields covered with high grass. The
tomb below was of a quadrangular shape, built of free-stone;
above was a house of stone, with a roof. The door that leads
into it is so very narrow, that a man, not very tall, with diffi-
culty can get in. Within is the golden coffin of Cyrus: Ilea.It
which is a seat with feet of gold; the whole is hung round with
coverings of purple, and carpets of Babylon.” Then follows an
account of several other valuable articles it contained; after
which he proceeds: “ In the vicinity was built a small house
for the Magi; to whose care the tomb had originally been en-
trusted, and so continued, since the time of Cambyses, from
fathers to sons.” (Aristobulus in Arrian, vi. ; also Strabo, xv.)
TOMB OF CYRUS. 503
The above description arose from the visit which Aristobulus
made to the tomb, by order of Alexander. And his so parti-
cularly noting it as a “house of stone, with a roof.” proves how
much the singularity of the construction had struck him. The
small dimensions of the door, are the same in the description
and the place; and the holes in the floor, and at the upper end .
of the chamber, are just in the positions, and at the same dis-
tances, to admit the iron fastenings which secured the golden
coffin. Had it been cased in a stone sarcophagus, like those at
Nakshi-Roostam, doubtless that would have remained; giving
no motive to the cupidity which rifled the tomb, to remove it
also. The very circumstance of no relic of this sort being to be
found here, is another argument, (if any more were needful,) for
disproving it as the burial-place of a follower of Mahomed, male
or female. Who, in a country that has been under Mahomedan
rulers since the time of the first caliphs, would have violated the
sepulchre of a son or daughter of The Faithful ? Plutarch tells
us, that Polymachus, one of Alexander's officers, took an oppor-
tunity, in the conqueror's absence, to rifle the tomb of Cyrus;
but on the monarch's return, and hearing of the sacrilege, though
the perpetrator was a man of high birth, and a Macedonian of
the city of Pella, he commanded his immediate death.
Aristobulus describes the tomb as being situated “within the
royal paradise at Pasargadae.” The paradises of the ancient kings
of Persia, were like those of the more modern shahs at Ispahan;
spacious gardens adjoining their palaces, and often so extensive
as to contain ground, which we would call a park, for the pre-
servation of animals for the chase. Hence, that the tomb should
have trees about it at the time Aristobulus saw it, was as little
to be wondered at, as that they should have totally disappeared,
504 ToMB of CYRUS.
with all other ornamental traces of those paradises, in the lapse
of so many centuries. That he has not mentioned the marble
colonnade, the remains of which at present surround the qua-
drangular base, proves nothing against its existence there at the
time of his visit ; it evidently appearing, from the cursory way
of his describing the outside of the structure, and the minute-
ness of the details within, that his observations were eminently
attracted to the contents: he speaks of “robes, and under-
garments, of Babylonian and Median manufactory, richly dyed
in violet, purple, and other colours. There were likewise
chains, scymitars, and ear-rings of gold, the whole beautifully
set with precious stones.” (Idem. Arist. in Arrian.) But he tells
us nothing of the measurement of the “ quadrangular base,” nor
of that of the tomb; all which, an eye accustomed to archi-
tectural observation, would have specified. His noticing the
lowness of the door, does not oppose my argument, since his
probably striking his head against its lintel would give him a me- ..".
morandum of that disproportion; but the extraordinary pecu-
liarity of a stone house and roof, could hardly have been over-
looked by a man who had eyes. He mentions, that “in the
vicinity was built a small house for the attendant Magi.” That,
which is now called the caravansary, may very fairly be consi-
dered as the identical place. Perhaps, it may be said, that its
scale is too extensive, and its chambers too numerous, for this
use. Yet, when we recollect that this college of devout and
wise men, had a daily allowance made to them of a sheep, a
measure of corn, and a certain quantity of wine; we cannot cal-
culate that their numbers could be very few ; and then, when
we consider their pupils, their attendants, and the accommo-
dations, which, at all times in the East, were left vacant for
TOMB OF CYRUS. 505
strangers; we cannot stand in the square of even this large
building without feeling, with the messenger of Alexander, that
it was “a small house for the Magi.” The doors of its numerous
cells are of a similar confined dimension with that of the tomb.
As I observed before, no vestiges of the royal paradise remain
between the tomb, and these ruins, which are not far distant ;
nor over the other intermediate spaces are there fragments of any
kind; but there is no want of water; and the luxuriant waving
of the corn on all sides, fully warrants the description of any
former Beheste on that spot.
I shall now speak of the inscription, written in the cuneiform
or arrow-headed character, which is so generally met with on all
the pillars, &c. of this place, and without the deviation of a
single curve. From the amazing progress that Professor
Grottefund has made in decyphering this perhaps most ancient
form of writing, he has been able to translate the present in-
* * teresting and often-repeated inscription; which demonstrates that
the place where it so frequently occurs must have been a fa-
vourite establishment of Cyrus's; and if so, what so likely as the
city of Pasargadae, which he founded himself as a lasting me-
morial of his triumphs and his empire?
The inscription, as it stands on the original marbles, I copied
on the spot; and the engraving from that copy is on the plate
in this work, marked 13. Professor Grottefund gives it the
following translation:
Dominus Cyrus rew orbis rector.
Cyrus, Lord, King, Ruler of the world !
Here we have combined in this short sentence, all the power
and grandeur which swelled the living glory of this celebrated
vol. 1. 3 T
506 TOMB OF CYRUS.
prince: and, from his epitaph as given by Strabo, we find in its
simplicity the same greatness, even in death : —
“O man I am Cyrus son of Cambyses, founder of the
Persian empire, and sovereign of Asia; therefore grudge me not
this sepulchre.”
Plutarch describes it thus: (after a translation which Alexander
caused to be made in Greek from the original, and cut beneath
that old inscription, on the tomb.) -
“O man whosoever thou art, and whencesoever thou comest,
(for come I know thou wilt!) I am Cyrus, the founder of the
Persian empire: envy me not the little earth that covers my body.”
Plutarch relates that this was done at the command of
Alexander, after the tomb had been violated by Polymachus;
and, that “when he read the inscription, he was sensibly
touched; it causing him to reflect seriously upon the mutability
of human affairs.” And then he ordered the epitaph to be
repeated in Greek. The alteration made from the first, in the
conclusion of the last inscription, is striking. The native
language of Cyrus, calls upon the visitor of his tomb, not to
grudge the deceased monarch of so vast an empire, that
“sepulchre,” which a common mind might regard as referring
to the golden sarcophagus: but the unworthy countryman of
the great Alexander, was insensible to this appeal; and, rifling
the tomb of its whole treasure, doubtless the body of the king
would be restored to its place in some less tempting sarcophagus,
and give rise to the second, still more affecting appeal, “not to
envy” so great a monarch “the little earth that then covered his
remains.” It is possible that both these inscriptions, may
originally have been on marble tablets affixed to the wall, and,
by subsequent removal, entirely lost. Onesicritus, an author of
TOMB of CYRUs. 507
the same period with Alexander, gives a Greek copy of the
epitaph in conciser language.
“Ev.923’ ty.) xijua. Köpog
Borixeſ); B2a-ºxhow.”
\ “Here is placed Cyrus,
J- King of Kings.”
Until the satisfactory results of Mr. Morier's learned researches,
and persevering investigations in the country, the documents
from ancient history usually brought forward as guides to the
antiquarian in his closet to ascertain the exact situation of
Pasargadae, continued to produce the most varying conclusions.
These old authors write vaguely, and particularly the historians
of Alexander, on topographical points; but slight as they are,
when carried in the memory of a man of quick apprehension
and clear judgment, added to the facility which Mr. Morier
possessed of exploring minutely all the sites attributed to the
city of Cyrus, we find that their scattered rays may converge to
one focus, and throw light direct on the sacred spot.
We learn from some of them, that “after Alexander had
taken possession of the Persian capital, (Persepolis.) the city of
Cyrus also, with its treasures, fell into his hands. Having pre-
viously remained the winter on the plain of Merdasht to repose
his troops, in the spring he followed the fugitive Darius, who
had thrown himself into Ecbatana, taking the road through
Pasargadae.” If I remember rightly, this account is given by
Strabo ; and it testifies, according to the conqueror's line of
march, that the city of Cyrus lay to the north of Persepolis;
and, hence, could not possibly have been either Shiraz or Fasa,
two places lying in a so directly contrary point. Pliny situates
3 T 2
508 TOMB OF CYRUS.
Pasargadae to the east of Persepolis; (Pliny Nat. Hist. vi.) and
the vale of Mourg-aub, certainly, is much to the north-east of
that capital. But Strabo (Strabo, xv.) affords us a still better
clue, by telling us that “the river Kur or Cyrus is in the vicinity
of Pasargadae, flowing through hollow Persia, (Caele Persis.)
The last term can only mean the deep vales of Sewan and
Hajeeabad, which open into that of Merdasht; and the vale of
Sewan is only separated from the plain of Mourg-aub by the range
of hills which bounds the latter to the southward. Through the
plain of Mourg-aub, and amongst these hills, winds the Kur-aub
towards the valleys of Sewan and Hajeeabad; traversing the
whole of that hollow country, till it falls into the Araxes or
Bundemir, something west of Persepolis. Mourg-aub is distant
from Persepolis forty-nine measured English miles. It lies north-
eastward of that capital, and the Kur flows at no great distance
from the ruins described. All these features, therefore, agreeing
with the picture of Pasargadae drawn by Strabo, we can have no
hesitation in declaring them much more like the place, than any
of those pretensions can be, which are brought by forced reason-
ings, on still more forced etymologies on their names. But the late
able discourses written on the subject, since the investigation of
Mourg-aub by Mr. Morier, and the translation of its inscriptions
. by Professor Grottefund, seem to have set the question so .
satisfactorily and entirely at rest, that henceforth the traveller
who visits the ruins on this plain, may assuredly say to himself,
“On that throne sat Cyrus, Lord, King, and Ruler of the world !
In that small house of stone, lies Cyrus, King of Kings | Covet not
the little earth that covers his body " . .
June 15th. Quitted the village of Mourg-aub at five o'clock
this morning, keeping in a direction nearly due south, and
VALLEY OF KEMINE. 509
leaving the tomb of Cyrus, with the other ruins of Pasargadae, on
our right. The country we passed over was in the most fruitful
cultivation ; well answering the description of Arrian, “fields,
covered with high grass, and long tracts, golden with the
swelling harvest.” On our way, we started a serpent, five feet in
length; its head was extremely small, belly a pale yellow, and
back black with bright green stripes; the thickest part of his
body was about the diameter of a gun-barrel. Several tortoises
also crawled along the sides of the road; and, indeed, we found
the soil prolific of this inferior kind of animal life, as well as in
the abundant vegetation which furnished them food to repletion.
About four miles farther, we passed the nearly deserted village
of Mesched Omoum ; and after another farsang's march, crossed
the deep bed of a stream which takes its rise in the mountains
behind the royal tomb, and flowing onward, ultimately falls
into the Kur-aub. Turning our back on the plain, we soon com-
menced an ascent over an extremely difficult path, being too un-
formed and rugged to merit the name of a road. But our guide
told us, it was a farsang shorter than the usual route, which lay
more to the eastward; and, forgetting the wisdom of the old
proverb, “the farthest way about being often the nearest way
home,” I was tempted to take the near cut; and, at the manifest
danger of all our necks, mounted almost trackless heights; and
having achieved them, had as slippery and hazardous declivities
to descend cautiously, before we could reach the bottom of the
mountains on their southern slope. We were full two hours in
making the descent, but then found ourselves in the pleasant
little valley of Kemine, which is about a farsang wide. We
passed through the village that bears its name, and halted at
another called Buchun, at the southern side of the vale. It
{
510 CAVES FOR MEDITATION.
consists of a cluster of fortified houses, standing close under the
hills in that quarter; above them shoot the rough and ragged
cliffs. We arrived at half past ten o'clock. The road I was
persuaded to leave, makes the distance from Mourg-aub four
farsangs, but it is by far the best. *
June 16th. We left our quarters this morning at four o'clock,
taking a course down the vale nearly due west; the boundaries
on both sides, of craggy naked cliffs, forming a bold contrast to
the enamelled verdure below. Having ridden about four
miles, we arrived at the base of a small insulated hill, scattered
over with the remains of walls of the old mud fabric ; and said
to be the ruins of one of the many hunting-seats with which
Baharam Gour filled this fine part of his dominions, distinguishing
each place by the name of red, black, yellow, or white castle.
Immediately opposite to it, we found a deep cavern, containing
two or three interior caves, whence issues a particularly trans-
lucent spring. The natives around told us, that it was formerly
inhabited by a succession of holy persons. Innumerable old
lamps still left in the place, testify something of the story.
Besides, the situation, as a retreat for religious abstraction, is
perfectly in character with the ideas of the ancients: retiring to
the vicinity of fountains, to perform pious or philosophical vigils,
and to converse with the spiritual world, was a common custom
from the earliest times, both amongst the pagans of Europe and
of Asia. We find Numa, at the fount of Egeria; and Kai
Khoosroo (as Ferdoussi tells us,) laying aside the diadem of
Iran, to immure himself in divine contemplations, in a cave
watered by a sacred spring. Water, indeed, appears a very
reasonable companion to these hermits; first, as an emblem of
the purification they seek; and secondly, as one of the only
SEWAN-PA-INE. 511
refreshments their abstinence allows. The place we had seen,
is still known by the appellation of the Cave of the Forty
Daughters; a presumption that the devotees spoken of were of
the female sex, which throws the religious dedication of this
cavern to a period anterior to the introduction of the Mahomédan
faith. The term forty, when attributed to any collection of
objects, is not always by these Eastern people intended to
declare that precise number, but rather to express any indefinite
calculation, whether of persons or things; and, generally, with
the hyperbolical view of insinuating that the number is beyond
calculation. Hence, both at Ispahan and Persepolis, we hear of
a Palace of Forty Pillars; here, we have the Cave of Forty
Daughters; and in “the Arabian Nights Tales,” we are told a
story of Forty Thieves.
Two farsangs terminated our western direction, by bringing
us to the end of the high wall of mountains on the southern
side of the valley, round which we turned our steps, pointing
our faces almost due south, after having crossed forty little
maiads in the way. These beautiful rivulets run rippling along
in every direction, sparkling through the high grass, till ab-
sorbed in the broader stream, they accompany its winding course
amongst the deeper hollows of the hills. Two miles further,
brought us to the village of Sewan-pa-ine; but its bare walls
alone received us; the inhabitants having all withdrawn them-
selves to the cooler atmosphere of the low ground, under shelter
of their mountains and black hair-cloth tents. The thermometer
in the shade was at 86 Fahrenheit. The fertility in the depths
of the vale, continued without interruption to its sides; every
inch of earth being cultivated close to the abrupt feet of the
cliffs. The river flowed through it in a sinuous southern course.
512 HADJEE-ABAD. .
Sewan-pa-ine is four farsangs from Buchun, our former halting-
place. - - -
June 17th. We set forth this morning at half-past three
o'clock; not over . the dews, but through a refreshing air,
which blew till the sun had power to check its course. Our
way lay up the valley, south 45° east, and at the expiration of
an hour, we passed Sewan-bala, a village most romantically
situated amongst the rocky promontories on the face of the
mountain to our right. In that mountain I saw whence the
materials, in all probability, had been taken, which composed
the buildings, which we would now call those of Pasargadae; the
whole visible substance of the hill being of white marble, cleft in
parts, as if the remains of ancient quarries, where several half-
hewn masses lay, fairly corroborating the truth of my supposi-
tion. Transportation of the blocks from hence to Mourg-aub,
would not demand much labour; the distance not being more
than eight farsangs from that plain ; and the road almost a level;
with the exception of the pass near Kemine, which loses its
difficulties by ascending it in the common track.
At the termination of two farsangs more, the valley expanded
considerably ; and we gradually gained a direction nearly west,
entering a vale which leads straight to Nakshi-Roostam. In
our way we passed the village of Saied-abad; and, after a march
of three hours in all, halted at Hadjee-abad; a distance of about
twelve miles from our last quarters. The river, which through
all its wanderings generally bore the name of Kur-aub, and near
whose banks we had so long shaped our course, at the point
where the vale of Sewan expands to a plain, divides itself into
two branches; one flowing through the country at the back of
the Persepolitan hills; the other fills a rocky channel in the
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HADJEE-ABAD. 513
valley of Hadjee-abad, retaining its own celebrated title till it
is lost in that of the Bund-emir.
The valley, or rather dell of Hadjee-abad, cannot be more
than two miles in extent from end to end; the most western
extremity being formed by the rocks of Nakshi-Roustam, which
stretch three miles from the village of Hadjee-abad, in a direc-
tion north 68° west. The whole of the northern side of the
valley is one succession of perpendicular cliffs, pile above pile,
almost entirely of white marble; their uneven summits taking
the boldest and wildest forms, broken into yawning chasms,
and divided by deep rents, torn by the rushing waters; whose
headlong plunge from the superior heights at certain seasons,
make themselves hidden channels through the fissures in the
lower piles; hence, insinuating their course through veins in
the mountains which never see the day, they collect in fuller
streams, and pass at the bottom of many caverns, at the mouths
of which the traveller may stand and hear the constant echoings
of the rushing waters within. About noon of the day that I
halted at Hadjee-abad, I was shewn a piece of antiquity in one
of these caves, which I believe has not hitherto been noticed.
It lies about a mile, nearly north, from the village. The en-
trance is exceedingly lofty; and within, the cavern is still more
so. We see that nature originally formed it of an immense
heighth and depth ; but not satisfied with her amplitude, manual
labour has added fifty yards of excavation in the vaulted roof.
Along the right side, we found several square places hewn in
the rock; two, nearest the entrance, at about six or seven feet
from the floor of the cave, were filled with inscriptions (Plate XV.);
both were in the Pelhivi character, not much injured, but widely
differing from each other; one consists of sixteen lines, the
VOL. I. 3 U
514 HAREM OF JEMSHEED.
other of fourteen. I copied them with all the accuracy in
my power, being much impeded by the height and darkness of
their position. One portion of the three upper lines, I could
not make out in the least. Each inscription occupies a whole
excavated tablet of about four feet in width. Should these
copies meet the attention of the learned Mons. de Sacey, it may
be hoped that, under his translation, they will cast some light
upon the neighbouring object of a traveller's pilgrimage, the
Mountain of Sepulchres at Nakshi-Roustam.
Previous to my visiting this latter interesting spot, I rode to
what is called the Harem of Jemsheed ; about a mile distant
from my quarters, to the south-west. Close under the rocks which
form the right side of the valley, rises a high piece of ground,
at the foot of whose northern and waving slope, flows the Kur-
aub, in a serpentine course, for nearly a mile. On one part of
this minor hill we see a magnificent and solitary column, stand-
ing pre-eminent over a crowd of ruins, which had evidently
belonged to some very spacious and stately edifice. The height
of the pillar, judging by its fallen companions, is twenty feet
six inches; the top of the shaft is finished by a capital in
the form of the head, breast, and bent fore-legs of a bull, richly
ornamented with collars and other trappings; which bust-like
portion of the animal, is united at the back to a corresponding
bust of another bull; both joining just behind the shoulders;
but leaving a cavity between, of one foot and eight inches wide,
sufficient to admit the end of a square beam of wood or stone,
to connect the colonnade. Seven similar columns lying in a
broken state on the ground near that which still stood
erect, afforded me an opportunity to collect the proportions and
measurement of the other. They are composed of a very dark
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NAKSHI-ROUSTAM, THE MOUNTAIN OF SEPULCHREs. 515
grey marble, fluted with masterly execution; and possess a beauty
and sharpness, as fresh as if the work of only yesterday. I care-
fully made a drawing of one of them, in all its parts, to a scale
by which its proportions and singular architecture may be seen.
(Plate XLV. fig. A.) A few yards to the north-east from this fallen
group of columns, we found remains of thick walls, and the yet
unmutilated marble-work of several large door-frames. Indeed, ty
the surface of the whole stretch of this immense hilly terrace is
covered with mounds of ruins, noble fragments of the finest
architectural parts of a building, and several pieces of pillars
and capitals of still greater dimensions than the one described.
By examination, it appears evident that two distinct large
edifices have stood here; apparently a palace and a temple;
and, independent of their appropriate remains, we perceive it
has been a fortified place. Its local situation admirably adapts
it for that post, entirely commanding the entrance into the
great valley; and the foundations of the embattled walls and
towers which surrounded it, are yet standing. From this posi-
tion, and these remains, it seems likely to have been one of the
superb citadels to which Persian writers have given the name of
Sheekwan. Its northern bank is washed by the Kur-aub ; and at
the foot of its southern slope, between it and the mountain,
passes the road, which was formerly closed in upon the present
fortress of the valley, by an enormous gate; the architecture
and solidity of the walls, of which shew the antiquity of the
structure, and the importance of its situation.
Nakshi-Roustam, or the Mountain of Sepulchres, (Plate XVI.)
was the next object of my investigation. The village in which
I had taken up my quarters, is distant from the mountain nearly
three miles; and my daily visits were performed at sun-rise,
3.U 2 -
516 THE MOUNTAIN OF SEPULCHRES.
where Iremained, fully occupied, until the heat of the day drove me
away, by becoming insupportable amongst those unshaded rocks.
The face of the mountain is almost a perpendicular cliff, con-
tinuing to an elevation of scarcely less than three hundred yards;
the substance is a whitish kind of marble. In this have been cut
the celebrated sculptures and excavations, so long the subjects of
discussion with the traveller, the artist, and the antiquary.
These singular relics of Persian greatness are placed very near
each other, and are all contained within the space of not quite
the height of the mountain.
Those highest on the rock are four ; evidently intended for
tombs, and as evidently of a date coeval with the splendour of
Persepolis. The range below, vary in ability of execution ; and
are all in a very inferior taste to those above; their sculptures
chiefly represent combats and groups of people. I shall speak
of them particularly hereafter; but, at present, I press imme-
diately to those above, as preceding the last in time and merit.
These four sepulchres differ in no way exteriorly; hence we
may suppose they vary as little within ; and the description of one
may, generally, describe them all. The one I examined consists
of an excavation of about fourteen feet, cut into the solid rock, in
a form something resembling the Greek cross. (Plate XVII.) The
upright division of it cannot be less than a hundred feet from
end to end. The transverse lines present the front of the tomb.
The face of the division below them, is a smooth surface; its
base terminating in a deep hollow cut in the rock. The highest
compartment is thickly sculptured with figures. The front of
the tomb is ornamented by four round pilasters, distant from
each other about seven feet, and as far from the caverned sides
of the excavation. Their bases terminate by a tor on a plinth,
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THE MOUNTAIN OF SEPULCHRES. 517
projecting from the face of the tomb one foot six inches. Their
shafts are crowned by the double-bulls I have before described.
But a horn issues from the foreheads of these. An additional
capital (composed of three square stones piled on each other,
the smallest and lowest fitting into the cavity between the bulls'
necks, with the largest stone at the top,) supports an architrave,
without any decoration, excepting a range of modillions near its
upper ledge. The perfect elevation of the front of a building,
where that sort of pillar was used, being shewn in the façade of
this tomb, we see the intention of the hollow between the bulls'
backs; and that the strength of its form is calculated rather for
the support of a roof, than the connecting material of a mere
colonnade. Hence we may conclude, that wherever we find
these capitals, the structure to which they were attached was
covered in. The temples of Mithra were on high places, and
open above, until the time of Darius Hystaspes; who, on the
reformation of the religion of the country, by Zerdusht, the
Zoroaster of the Greeks, drew a roof over the temples, the
better to preserve the sacred fire on the altars from accidents of
the weather. Had we yet to prove the fact that the ruins at
Mourg-aub are those of Pasargadae, this change in the construc-
tion of the holy buildings would support the idea, that in the
magnificent remains of the open temple at Mourg-aub, we see
an erection of Cyrus. But to return to the tomb. Between
the two centre pilasters, is the entrance. The door-frame is
finely proportioned, with a curved projecting architrave nicely
fluted, and divided into leaves. But the greater part of the ap-
parent door is only marked like one ; the entrance being con-
fined to a square space of four feet six inches high, in its lower
compartment. The breadth in the rock, which the whole front
518 THE MOUNTAIN OF SEPULCHRES.
occupies, is fifty-three feet. For the details of its proportions,
see the plan, (Plate XVIII.) all drawn to a scale of measurement,
as far as was within my reach. -
The division above the front of the tomb is the excavation
which contains the sculptured figures, and is cut in the way of
a sort of frame inclosing them. The representation within
consists of a double tier of fourteen figures each, in the style of
caryatides, with their hands raised over their heads, supporting
two beautifully friezed cornices. The figures are all habited the
same, in short tunics ; some having their waists bound with a
simple belt; and others with a dagger pending from it, on the
right hip ; all are bare-headed, but the hair being very bushy,
has the appearance of a wig. These persons, with the cornices
they support, form the face of a kind of elevated platform,
something like our ancient table-tombs, but there is no com-
parison in the dimensions. Each side of the structure is finished
by a pillar of a very extraordinary shape. We may divide it
into four parts; the base resembles an urn, on which rests the
huge paw and limb of a lion, descending from the columnar -
part of the pillar, which is fluted horizontally half-way up ; and
from its summit issues the head and shoulders of the unicorn-
bull, but without ornaments. The back of the neck unites it
with the highest cornice, which forms the top of the structure;
therefore the heads of the two bulls which form the pillars at
each end, rise higher than the plane they support. On this
plane stands a figure, elevated on a pedestal of three steps.
He is dressed in an ample robe flowing to his ancles; in his left
hand he holds a strung bow; his right arm is stretched half out
with the hand quite open ; bracelets are round the wrists, his head
is bare, the hair bushy behind, and neatly curled; his beard falls
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THE MOUNTAIN OF SEPULCHREs. 519
to the breast. Opposite to him, rises another pedestal of three
steps; this is surmounted by an altar, evidently charged with
the sacred fire, a large flame of it appearing at the top ; high
over it, to the right, we see a globular shape, doubtless intended
for the sun, of which the fire below was the offspring and the
emblem. These altars always stood towards the East, that the
worshipper might face the point whence the great source of light
ascended; and we here find the orb in the same direction.
Another figure floats aloft in the air, between the altar and the
Archimagus or High Priest, (for such, it is probable, we may
regard the man in the robe,) appearing as if it had issued from
the sun; it approaches the man from that point. This aerial
personage, or rather, perhaps, divine intelligence, seems sup-
ported by something like a collection of sun-beams, thickly
carved in waving horizontal and perpendicular lines, interspersed
with several divisions of narrow cloud-shaped masses of stone.
The radiation is not circular, but forms three distinct collections
of rays, pointing east and west, and downwards; they diverge
from a ring or halo, out of the midst of which rises the figure;
it being entirely above this “beamy chariot,” from the waist
upwards. It is habited in a robe similar to that of the man on
the pedestal, with the hair and beard in the same fashion; but
the head is covered with a fluted crown ; the left hand holds a
large and massy ring; the right is elevated and open, as if in
the act of admonition; a couple of bands, apparently the ends of
his girdle, flow down through the circle and beams in which the
...” figure appears; thus proving the aerial texture of the seeming
vehicle. But when we compare its forms, and the workmanship
of its details, and its position with regard to its occupier, with
the wings and finely wrought feathers of the bas-relief at
520 THE MOUNTAIN OF SEPULCHRES."
Pasargadae, we can be in no doubt, from the entire difference
between them, that the radii we haye been describing, form a
means of passing through the air totally distinct from the per-
Sonage that uses it. -
I have mentioned that this monumental elevation, with its
altar and other appendages, is comprised within a square frame of
stone; on the four exterior surfaces, at the front and the sides,
we find figures three deep, stationed one above the other; those
to the right of the altar, with their faces towards the back of the
man on the pedestal, are clothed in robes similar to his ; and
they have bonnets on their wig-like hair, resembling in shape the
crown on the head of the spiritual being described, but with the
difference of not being fluted; these persons are armed with spears;
there are three of them in a perpendicular line on the front of
the western aspect of the frame; and six, rank and file, on the
side. In the opposite direction, on that part of the frame which
is to the left of the altar, in the front, is a perpendicular line
three deep, of figures in precisely the same sort of dress as the
spearmen, with the difference of these having no weapons
whatever. These also look towards the altar, and appear as
mourners, their left hands being raised to their faces, holding a
part of their garments, as if wiping away their tears. Another
line of figures is sculptured on the side of the frame, to which
the three mourners are the front; but here, only one in three is
in a weeping attitude. g
Having fully examined the exterior of the tombs, my next
object was to penetrate their interior; an attempt of no little
danger, as well as fatigue. (Plate XIX.) There were no other
means by which a stranger to these heights could reach them,
but by the expedient of tying a rope round his waist, and some
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ASCENT TO A TOMB. - 521.
strong arms above, hauling him upwards. . I immediately looked
out for assistants. My mehmandar was at his stories and fore-
bodings again, for tempting such daemon-wrought places. But
the peasantry of this district seemed to know better than to
have fear of either deev or difficulty; and one of them more
active and sinewy than the rest, managed to scramble up the
perpendicular cliff, like a rat hanging by a wall; and, gaining the
ledge of the platform, or vestibule to the tomb, he lowered
down a rope, by which some of his nimble companions assisted
themselves in ascending. I followed the example, by fastening
the rope round my waist, and by their united exertions was .
speedily drawn up to the place of rendezvous. The distance,
was sufficiently high from the ground to give me time for
thought; and during my ascent, in a manner so totally depen- º
dent on the dexterity of others, I could not but recollect the
fate of half-a-dozen kinsmen of Darius Hystaspes, who had all.
perished at once in the very same expedition. Ctesias relates,
that this great Persian monarch “caused a tomb to be dug for
him while he yet lived, in the double mountain ; but when it
was completed, the Chaldean soothsayers forbid him to enter it
during his life under a penalty of some terrible danger. Darius
was intimidated, but some princes of his family could not resist
a strong curiosity which impelled them to view its interior.
They went to the mountain, and by their desire were to be
drawn up by the priests who officiated there; but in the act,
while they yet hung between earth and air, the sudden ap-
pearance of some serpents on the rock so terrified the people
above, that they let go the ropes, and the princes were dashed to
pieces.” On this very spot, more than two thousand years ago, the
catastrophe happened. Certainly, being in any noted place, has a
VOL. I. 3 X
522 EXAMINATION OF A TOMB.
most amazing power in bringing two far distant points of time
to meet; at least in the mind that contemplates them. I should
have read the history of this disaster at home with almost as
little concern as if the people had never existed; here I was
on the spot where it happened, and the scene was realized; the
persons seemed present with me, and I shuddered for them,
while I rejoiced in my own safety. To incur the least possible
danger to myself and my assistants, I had selected the tomb
that was nearest the ground; but even that was upwards
of sixty feet above its level; and I came off with not a few
bruises, from hard knocks against the rock, in my swinging
Y
ascent.
Having gained the platform, I made my entrance into the
tomb by the opening in the lower compartment of the door,
and through a depth between the rocky walls of two feet. I
then found myself in a vaulted chamber, completely blackened
all over by smoke of some kind, either from lamps or other
fires ; the place was stifling and gloomy; at its farther extremity
were three arched recesses, which occupy the whole length of
the chamber; each contains a trough-like cavity cut down into
the rock, and covered with a stone of corresponding dimensions.
Every one of these covers have been broken near the corners,
evidently to give a view to the person who committed the
mischief, of what the sarcophagus might contain. I had a light
introduced into the whole three, by which I saw the remotest
cranny, and all were alike perfectly empty; not even any loose
dust, that might have witnessed some former mouldered in-
habitant. If these covers have at any time been removed, they
have been very carefully replaced. - l g
The length of the cave which forms the whole tomb, is thirty-
OTHER TOMBS. 523
four feet, its height nine; each catacomb containing the deepened
cavity for the body, is also nine feet from the top of its arch to
the bottom of the cavity; the length of the sarcophagus cavity
is eight feet three inches by five feet, its depth four feet four
inches; the rest of the height being contained in the bend of
the arch. The open space of the chamber, between the catacombs
and the door, is about five feet; the entrance had originally
been closed by a block, or blocks of stone, the deep holes being
visible on each side which received their pivots. I observed some
vestiges within of the mode of hanging so ponderous a security;
but the avidity of the spoilers for lead and iron has injured every
part where the objects of their cupidity could be rent away.
The surface of the door, as it appears without, which will be seen
in the drawing, is divided into four compartments; the lower
one is entirely taken away, being now quite open to the air,
with a small part also of the second division broken off, which
probably happened when the passage was forced. When we
look on these violences, committed on the last resting-places of
the great, we cannot but be sensible that the humblest graves
are the securest. The actual door of entrance, from every mark
that remains of its former position, could not have been more
than four feet in height, but the space is now six inches higher,
since that much was broken away from the compartment above.
Having examined to the utmost of my ability every thing
that could be seen in this curious monument of the most ancient
times, I was lowered down on the level ground, and thence
viewed the succeeding interesting objects of the rock.
Amongst the three remaining tombs, that which lies farthest
to the eastward of the one I had explored, is cut in a receding
angle of the mountain, and therefore faces the west; from which
3 x 2
524 '•. REMARKABLE INSCRIPTIONS.
fortunate position, its sculptured surface is less exposed to the
burning effect of the sun, or any other injurious extreme in the
weather; hence the delicate chiselling of its figures and their
ornaments, with other exterior parts of the tomb, are in finer
preservation than the others which look directly south-east.
The second tomb from this last mentioned, is the only one
whereon the marks of inscription can be traced; but over the
whole tablet of the upper compartment, letters are visible
wherever they could be introduced; above the figures, between
them and the altar, along the sides, from top to bottom, in
short, every where, we see it covered with the arrow-headed
characters, and in good preservation. In the compartment
below the sculptured division, inscriptions are there also between
the two pillars on the left of the door; I counted several hundred
lines, but these appeared in a very impaired state; any of the
writing is with difficulty discerned with the naked eye, the tomb
being so very high from the plain where I stood; but with my
glass, I could discover every letter perfectly distinct. What a
treasure of information doubtless was there to the happy man
who could decypher it ! It was tantalizing to a painful degree,
to look at such “a sealed book,” in the very spot of mystery,
where, probably, its contents would explain all. But it cer-
tainly is a very distinguishing peculiarity of this tomb, that it
alone should contain any inscription, and that the writing on it
is so abundant; a circumstance that might warrant the supposi-
tion of this being the tomb that was cut by the express orders of
Darius Hystaspes to receive his remains; for Strabo mentions
that an inscription was on it, and part of which he gives. By
great labour, and patience, and time, and the aid of a telescope,
this invaluable relic might be copied. I cannot but hope that
HISTORICAL REMARKS. 525
this will be done by some one of the many learned and in-
defatigable travellers who direct their researches to this part of
the East; and that Professor Grottefund's talents may be
exercised in developing its meaning. From its length, it must
contain much matter; from its diffusion over the monument,
probably a great variety; and we might find some light on the
obscurity in which the original name of Persepolis is involved;
besides, we might gain a knowledge of the era in which the
Persian kings first dedicated this rock to the rites of sepulture;
but, should it not convey any of these informations, still it were
worth the pains of translation; for it could hardly fail of de-
ciding the point, whether the ashes of Darius Hystaspes reposed
here, or that we must look for his tomb in the sepulchral
mountain of Persepolis. . -
Cyrus was the first of the Persian kings whom history records
as having ordered his tomb to be constructed during his life;
but we do not find that it was to be erected in this, or on any
other mountain, nor in the metropolis of his ancestors, but at
Pasargadae, the city of his own founding, and it was to be of a
very singular shape. Yet, notwithstanding that he only is
noticed as having concerned himself on such an occasion, there
is no reason for concluding that he was actually the first prince
of that country who had marked for himself a particular place of
interment. To some, anxiety respecting the disposal of our
mortal remains after death, appears an instinct of nature; but,
though others deny the existence of such an idea as innate, we
may yet find sufficient argument for the feeling, and its univer-
sality amongst mankind in all ages, from the reasonableness of the
thing. I do not speak of a person under the light of revelation,
who cannot but respect the depository of the body which is to
526 REFLECTIONS.
share the immortality of the resurrection, but of the heathen
world; where little was commonly known from religion, but
directions for its rites. Man, left entirely to his own conjectures
respecting his nature, cannot fail to be anxious about what may
be the condition of the only part of himself of which he has any
certain knowledge, his body, after that dereliction of all its
powers which we call death; since he can by no means be sure
how long his consciousness of being may, some way, be con-
nected with that body. Hence we find the misery recorded by
poets of Greece and Rome, of a ghost fated to wander the
shores of Styx, till his corse has derived the rites of sepulture.
This impression being generally received, was enough to make
all men in those ages, solicitous to prepare their own place of
lasting repose; and, when kings had the object so entirely in
their own power, it is not to be doubted they would also make
it a part of their magnificence. Besides, we have it in many a
page of history that from the twilight view which even the wisest
of them had of man's future eternal state, they so mingled its
spirituality with the grossest matter, that they supposed his
heavenly happiness increased in proportion to the offerings
consecrated at his tomb, and to the living creatures sacrificed to
his manes. The heart is often inclined to two opposite actions,
with regard to a departed person high in its esteem : to pray for
his felicity one moment, and to beseech his intercession for com-
fort to itself, in the next. Something of this enthusiasm of regret
on one side, as well as of antecedent pride on the other, has,
doubtless, been instrumental in elevating the heroes of antiquity
to the honours of deification. And, again; the same human
judgment which made men gods, estimated the dispositions of
gods by the temper of men, and supposed that the new inmate
ANTIQUITY OF THE TOMBS. 527
of heaven, must rise in the respect of its ancient possessors, in
proportion to the incense which smoked to him from his altars
on earth. Hence arose successive sacrifices to these demi-deities,
to propitiate their intercession with the higher powers, and, by
such honours to the new god, to incline those higher powers
more readily to yield to his mediation. Something of this, we
must understand, in the monthly immolation of a horse to the
shade of Cyrus ; which was duly sent for that purpose to the
priestly guardians of his tomb, by his son and successor
Cambyses. (Arrian, lv. c. 29.) These ideas, which both princes
and people generally entertained of the destined apotheosis of
great men, would naturally add another stimulus to kings, to
prepare and adorn the tombs that were likely to become their
temples. From these reflections, we may fairly infer that some
of the tombs at Nakshi-Roustam, and others at Persepolis, are
quite as ancient, if not anterior, to the age of the great founder
of the Persian empire. Persepolis, by whatever name it was
then known, may reasonably be supposed to have existed many
generations before the son of Cambyses and Mandana became
its sovereign. According to the most ancient native accounts
extant, Persia was governed from a very remote period by a
race of kings, called the Paishdadian line (meaning the distributors
of justice,) amongst whom was the renowned Jemsheed; and from
whom, these authors relate, Cyrus was descended. The founding
of Persepolis is attributed to this race of kings, and hence its
name in the country is Tackt-i-Jemsheed, or the throne of
Jemsheed. Why then may we not ascribe the first design of
these sepulchral caves to some of the very ancient princes of
that line P Professor Heeren, in his Notice on Persepolis, observes;
while classing the monuments of antiquity in and near that
528 ANCIENT PERSIAN SEPULTURE.
place, “that the tombs near it, indubitably belong to no later a
time than the early Persian empire; and, probably, to a period
much before it.” • * . - - -
At any rate, by whomever they were originally constructed,
we have a variety of testimonies to the antiquity of their exist-
ence, and to what purpose they were designed. Diodorus (l. ii.)
states, that “there were tombs dedicated to the Persian Kings
in the mountain behind Persepolis;” and Ctesias, when men-
tioning that which was made by order of Darius Hystaspes, says,
“It was in the double mountain;” v Tó Ölagº &psi, an expression
that admits the inference of there being another mountain, in
like manner devoted to royal sepulture; and that he made his
election between them.
Throughout the Persian histories, we find the most scrupulous
regard paid to bearing the remains of their kings and princes to
the royal cemetery; and Q. Curtius (l. v.) records, that “Alex-
ander so respected the established customs of the country, that when
the body of Darius was found, he caused it to be embalmed;
and sent it to his mother, Sysigambis, that it might be buried
after the manner of the Kings of Persia, and in the tombs of his
ancestors.” -- - -
Herodotus gives two accounts of the ancient manner of dis-
posing of their dead. First, that the Magi enclosed the body
in wax, and then consigned it to the tomb. This, no doubt,
was the mode of embalming; and bestowed on the great alone.
The second process was horrible. . The deceased were exposed
on the tops of buildings to be the prey of birds, and then their
bones were buried. The same practice is mentioned in the
Zendavesta, where it is said, that Zerdusht (Zoroaster) ordered
the dead to be laid on the roofs of certain edifices, “where
THE MOUNTAIN OF SEPULCHRES. 529
neither man nor water passeth ;” and there remain till the birds
had devoured, or time wasted away the flesh; when the bones
were to be collected, and thrown into “a large cavity, in the
middle of the public sepulchre.” This latter part of the injunc-
tion seems to assign so disgusting a mode of obsequies to the lower
ranks of people, who would be likely to fill a grave in common;
while the ancient tombs, We See SO evidently shaped to contain
separate bodies, must have been prepared for the nobler class, who
were privileged to carry their limbs whole to their mother earth,
and wrapped in “gorgeous cearments.” In the book of the Per-
sian prophet Abad (the first in the Desatir), verse 154, it is written,
“A corpse you may place in a vase of aquafortis, or consign it
to the fire, or to the ground.” (Wide translation by Moullah
Firuz, Parse at Bombay.) Certainly a more decent style of sar-
cophagus than the gorge of carnivorous birds ! -
The objects that have just been described, on the upper part.
of the Mountain of Sepulchres, being allowed to belong to the
early race of Persian monarchs, whose dynasty terminated under
the sword of Alexander the Great, we next turn to the remains
which mark the lower line of the rock, and which are attributed
to kings of the Arsacedian, and Sassanian race. The Arsacedian,
or Parthian dynasty, took its name from Arsaces, a Parthian-
prince, who recovered Persia from the successors of Alexander,
within a century after its subjugation by that conqueror. And,
when we compare the sculpture on the tombs, with these lower
bas-reliefs, we cannot but think it strange to see the taste of the
artists degenerated, after they had so long been subjected to the
Greeks, who were famed as masters in design and execution.
About four hundred years after this Parthian revolution, another:
took place in favour of the Persian name. A native chief of
VOL. I. 3 Y
530 ANCIENT BAS-RELIEFS.
that country, professing himself of the blood of Cyrus, drove
the Parthians from the throne; and established a new line,
under the title of the Sassanian dynasty. His Persian name
was Ardashir Babigan; his Greek, Artaxerxes the First ; and
he was in every way worthy of the noble blood he claimed.
"Hence, if any of these bas-reliefs be of Parthian origin, some
centuries are between them and those of undoubted Sassanian
design. At present, the whole number consists of six, in dif-
ferent degrees of preservation, and situated nearly in a line;
some even with the ground, and others a few feet above it. The
entire six, I have faithfully delineated ; neither adding grace,
nor restoration, where either might be wanting. - -
The first under consideration (Plate XIX.) presents itself
soon after we pass the tomb in the most eastern direction.
Much of it is buried in the earth; the three figures, which are
its subject, being now only visible as high as the upper part of
the thighs. The two principal are engaged in grasping, with
their outstretched arms, a wreath or twisted bandeau, from which
hang a couple of waving ends. The first figure, which holds it with
his right hand, stands in the right of the sculpture, and appears
to be a king. He is crowned with a diadem of a bonnet-shape,
round which runs a range of upward fluted ornaments, sur-
mounted with a high balloon-like mass, rising from the middle
of the crown. From the imitation of folds in the stone, it is
evidently intended to be a decoration of some sort of stuff. A
fillet binds the bottom of the head-dress round the forehead;
appearing to tie behind, amongst a redundancy of long flowing.
hair, whence it streams in two waving ends, resembling those
from the wreath he is clasping. These loose ribband-like ap-
pendages, seem badges of Arsacedian and Sassanian sovereignty;
FIRST ANCIENT. BAS-RELIEF. 531
and we find them attached to various parts of the regal dress in all
these remains of antiquity. His hair, as I observed before, is full,
flowing, and curled; having nothing of the stiff wig-appearance
so remarkable in the bas-reliefs of the race of Cyrus. The
beard of this figure is very singularly disposed. On the upper
lip, it is formed like mustachios; and grows from the front of the
ear, down the whole of the jaw, in neat short curls; but on the
chin it becomes a great length, (which, as I have noticed be-
fore, seems to be a lasting attribute of royalty in Persia,) and is
tied together, just at the point of the chin, whence it hangs like
a large tassel. At his ear is the fragment of an immense pearl,
and a string of the same is round his neck. His outer robe, or
scarf, is fastened on the chest by a double round clasp, and
devolves down his back. His tunic has tight long sleeves, and
is bound by a belt which passes over the right hip: the folds of
the tunic at the top of the belt, are well expressed in the stone.
To the other side of this girdle, it is probable the sword is at-
tached, the hilt of which he is grasping with his left hand. But
the whole of the rock in this part, over half his figure, and
stretching on to the right-side outline of the opposite personage,
is deplorably broken away. On my arrival afterwards at Shiraz,
a Persian artist showed me a very old drawing of this bas-relief,
where the present mutilated space was filled by the upper part
of the figure of a boy, crowned with a diadem like the person-
age on the left, (whom I am about to describe,) and, like the
figure of the king, clasping the hilt of his sword with the left
hand. . . . . . .
The personage on the left is, without doubt, a woman; the
outline of the form making it evident. On her head, we see a
large crown of a mural shape; and from its top, where the
3 Y 2
532. - ANCIENT BAS-RELIEFS.
balloon-like caul rises from the King's, we find in hers, full and
high curling masses, appearing to be part of her hair so dis-
posed. A narrow range of fluted ornament, with its appropriate
fillet, encircles the bottom of the diadem ; and from it, behind,
flows out the usual royal streamers. Long braids of hair hang
over her shoulders and on her breast; one comes twisting down
from her temple, passing before her ear, over her cheek; the ear
sustains a large pearl, of the same size with those round her neck;
her outer robe, or scarf, is clasped in front, like her companion's ;
and, like his, floats away behind ; it also lies loose on the
shoulders, and has two flowing ends from the clasps, similar to
those which would, probably, be found attached to the clasp of the
king, did not his arm interfere. A narrow band finishes her
waist, carefully tied before with diverging ends. Her dress is
exceedingly tight, showing the form of the person, and its
sleeves reach even to the knuckles of the hands. The face is
much broken, but enough is left to show the gigantic feminine
features. Her right hand clasps the wreath with the king.
The third figure visible in the group stands behind the king;
and, from some parts of his apparel, appears to be a guard.
His beard is short and bushy, and is attached to a very fine
countenance, not much mutilated. The hair of his head lies in
braids on the back of his neck, and is surmounted by a cap or
helmet, bending forward, and crested at the point of the bend
with what has once been intended for a horse's head. He holds
up his right hand in the attitude of enjoining silence, looking
towards the place where the boy's figure has been defaced. His
left hand also grasps the pommel of his sword, which is attached
to a belt like that of the king. These belts appear to have no
other purpose than holding the weapon, seeming to hang loose,
KING BAHARAM. 533
while another band, that is tight, secures the garment round the
waist. It is fastened in front, and very neatly tied. No waving
‘ends decorate him, a proof that they are marks of high rank.
What is yet visible of this figure measures, from the line of the
earth that has encroached on it to the top of his head, five feet ten
inches; from the same embankment, to the summit of the crown
of the king, seven feet eight inches and a half; and measuring
what is seen of the lady, in the same way, it is seven feet five
inches. The whole length of the excavation is nineteen feet.
From the composition of this piece, even as it now appears,
shewing a royal union, and, as its more perfect former state is
exhibited in the drawing I saw at Shiraz, where a boy with a
princely diadem completes the group, I find that it corresponds
with a Sassanian silver coin in my possession. On that coin
are the profiles of a king, a queen, and a boy. On the reverse,
is a burning altar, supported by the same man and woman, the
latter holding a ring in her right hand. From the Pelhivi
legend which surrounds the coin, it is one of the Baharams,
which is there written Vahraran. Comparing certain peculiar
circumstances which marked the reign of Baharam the Fifth,
surnamed Gour, with the design on the coin, and with the
figures on this excavation, I should conclude that the king in
both is Baharam the Fifth. I have mentioned him before, and
in a melancholy account of his death in a gour-hunt, as one of
the bravest and best princes of the Sassanian race; or rather, in
the words of Sir John Malcolm, “that ever ruled Persia.”
That author gives a curious anecdote respecting the love of this
king towards his queen ; and the circumstances which raised her
into such high estimation with him, as to induce him. to thus
commemorate her image with his own. Though the tale is very
534 BAHARAM AND HIS QUEEN.
extravagant, yet it proves that there were some extraordinary
grounds on which he founded so uncommon a reverence for his
royal consort; and, as a specimen of the romantic taste of the
times, I shall repeat it. The story is told on the spot, where
they say it happened.
“The ruling passion of Baharam was the chase; and proud
of his excellence as an archer, he wished to exhibit his skill
before his most favourite wife. She accordingly accompanied
him to the plain; and an antelope was descried at a distance
lying asleep. The monarch drew his bow with such precision,
that its arrow grazed the animal's ear. The antelope awoke,
and put his hind hoof to the spot, to strike off the fly by which
he appeared to conceive he was annoyed. The monarch shot
again, and pinned the hoof to the horn. The exulting Baharam
turned to the lady, with a look that demanded her opinion of his
skill; but she coolly observed,—‘ Practice makes perfect.” So
indifferent a reply, where he expected such warm praises, stung -
him to the soul with disappointment and jealousy; and in the
fury of the moment, he ordered her to be carried to the moun-
tains, and exposed to perish. The minister who was to obey
this cruel command, took her hence; but, mercifully sparing
her life, allowed her to retire under a deep disguise to an obscure
village.on the mountain-side. She took up her lodgings in the
upper chamber of a tower, to which she ascended by twenty
steps. On her arrival she bought a young calf, which she re-
gularly carried once up and down the flight every day. This
exercise she continued for four years; and the improvement in
her strength kept pace with the increasing weight of the animal.
Baharam, who had supposed his favourite to have been long
dead, happened, after a fatiguing chase, to stop one evening at
BAHARAM AND HIS QUEEN. 535
this village. He saw a young woman carrying a large cow
up a flight of twenty steps. He was astonished, and sent to
enquire, how strength so extraordinary had been acquired by a
woman of apparently so truly a feminine form. The young
person, who had wrapped herself in her veil, said she would
communicate her secret to none but the king; and to him only,
on his condescending to come to the tower alone. Baharam
instantly obeyed the summons; and on his repeating his ad-
miration of what he had seen, she bid him not lavish praises,
as if she had performed a miracle, for “Practice makes perfect!’
said the queen, in her natural voice, and at the same time lift-
ing her veil. The king recognised, and embraced her. Struck
with the lesson she had thus given him, and delighted with a
proof of love, which had induced her for four years to pursue so
arduous a plan of convincing him of his mistake in doubting its
existence, he restored her to his affection, and rank as his fa-
vourite wife; and had a palace built on the spot of their re-
union, to commemorate the event.” - * .
The female figure in the bas-relief, may very fairly be consi-
dered this redoubtable queen; for, notwithstanding the compli-
ment paid to her “feminine form,” while carrying her immense
burden, we cannot suppose but that its proportions would in some
measure spread, to yield such great augmentation of strength... Yet
we know that an originally graceful outline, however extended,
must always preserve beauty; and that is sufficiently seen in the
Juno port of the queen in the bas-relief, who seems as capable of
asserting the rights of sovereignty, as the really manly form of the
king by her side. But, setting all this aside, Baharam would only
see the strength of his favourite's love, in the increased energies’
she had acquired to display its power, when the softness of the
536 BAHARAM AND HIS SON.
heart subdued the heroine to woman in his presence. From that
time, she appears to have become the partner of his glory as well
as of his pleasures; and he associated her bust with his own on
the coins of his empire. The son of their union is also seen on
these coins, though now obliterated in the bas-relief; but from
the primary authority of the Zeenut-ul-Tuarkh, so elegantly
translated by Malcolm, I think it only completes the animation
of the sculptured picture, to transcribe a few of the circumstances
which, first from pitying tenderness, and then triumphant affec-
tion, drew the young prince so conspicuously near each parent's
heart. - * - -
“Baharam had a beloved son, but who was considered an idiot.
In vain the best masters endeavoured to instruct him ; he ap-
peared incapable of all acquirements, and showed indifference to
every earthly stimulus. One day his tutor came to the king in
despair, and told him that he knew not what to do, for the young
prince had added vice to stupidity. “I have detected him,' cried
the good man, ‘in an attempt to seduce the beautiful daughter of
a peasant who dwells near our palace.” Baharam's COuntenance
beamed with joy :– “Thank God!’ exclaimed he, ‘the clay is
kindled P-and sending for the father of the young creature
who had thus, in a manner, awakened his son to existence, he
spoke to him in these terms : — ‘I do not seek to trifle with your
honour; but I tell you that your daughter may become the in-
strument of this nation's happiness. My son loves her, and her
power over him may be unbounded. Bid her hold the power,
and it will be infinite ; but teach her to arouse in him the desire
of attaining manly perfection to obtain her. Infuse into her the
virtuous ambition, to aim at this end; and she may, without
danger to herself, give him sufficient encouragement to keep
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SECOND BAS-RELIEF. 537
hope alive, and love will do the rest.’ The old man engaged to
lesson his daughter; and the young woman acted up so exactly
to what she was enjoined, that the enamoured prince soon be-
came all that his father wished and the nation hoped.”—And
afterwards, of course, making her his wife, when he came to the
throne. on the death of Baharam, the name of Yezdijird the
Second was not inferior in renown, for wisdom and valour, to any
of the greatest of his race. Indeed, he was so beloved in the
army, as to receive the title of Sipahdest, or the Soldier's Friend.
For the precise dates of these sovereigns’ reigns, I refer my
readers to the table at the beginning of the volume. -
The next bas-relief (Plate XX.) is a few paces from the pre-
ceding; and, in like manner, weeds and other accidental accu-
mulations, crumbling into dust for ages, have blocked up half
the surface of the sculpture. It represents a combat between
tWO horsemen ; and has been designed with great fire, and
executed in a style very superior to the preceding one. The
proportions of the figures are good, and every thing pro-
claims it to have been the work of a different hand. Hence
its general mutilation is doubly to be regretted, on account of
the finer specimen of the art at that period, and as a valuable
acquisition to elucidate the military costume of the era. The
most conspicuous figure is in the act of charging his opponent
with a spear, accompanied with considerable grace of contour,
and a striking harmony of action in every part of his body. A
winged helmet protects his head, between which feathered or-
naments rises the oval mass, already described in the head-dress
of the monarch in the former bas-relief. From this also de-
volves long bands, whose floating folds are much better disposed.
To each shoulder an ornament is attached of the shape, and in
the proportion, of large pine-apples; and another of the same
VOL. I. 3 Z .
538 SECOND BAS-RELIEF.
form is affixed to the top of the horse's head. By its evidently
swaying backwards under the action of the air, in the career of the
animal, it assumes a tassel-appearance; hence whatever were its
principal composition, it must have been overlaid with a light and
long fringe-like surface. A very lengthened and large quiver hangs
pendant on the warrior's thigh ; it is suspended by a belt, and
perfectly empty of arrows. A part of the armour, which is still
not quite obliterated on this part of the figure, represents some
kind of metal formed into scales, but more generally into small
plates lying on the limb just above the knee, like that worn by
the Knights Templars, as seen on their tombs. No trappings
now remain on the horse which he rides, but it is stretched
at speed; behind him, scarcely visible, appears an almost ef-
faced form, which must have been the standard-bearer; that
ensign being yet very plain, aloft in the air in that part of the
group. It consists of a staff surmounted by a large ring; beneath
is a transverse bar, with each end attached to a hanging tassel of
an enormous size, and of the fringed pine-apple shape of those
described on the warrior and his horse. His opponent is also
mounted on a charger, but both man and horse are so obliterated,
that little remains except the general contour of the rider and a
few traces of the steed; yet the spirit in both survives the muti-
lation. Indeed, notwithstanding the remains of the horses are
rather clumsy, there is a surprising effect of concurring motion
through the whole group. The spear of this second warrior is
elevated in the air, in an oblique direction. His helmet is rather
of a Grecian form, and something like the crest of that character
crowns it. He likewise has streamers flowing about him, but
not so amply as his adversary. A prostrate figure lies under the
belly of the principal figure's horse. This excavation is twenty-
four feet in length, and twelve in height. . . ."
SECOND BAS-RELIEF. 539
The winged helmet on the head of the principal warrior, re-
sembles that on the head of Baharam, on the coin I have lately
mentioned, which might be one argument for this bas-relief
being meant to represent the same hero; but there is another
evidence in favour of the supposition, in my opinion yet more
conclusive. It rests on a curious fact which took place during
one of his wars with the Tartars:—He went to meet the Khan of
Transoxania, who was in the field against him at the head of
a very great power; Baharam's numbers were so insufficient in
comparison, that he had recourse to stratagem. He ordered, that
on the head, and about every man's horse, should be fastened
a bladder or dried skin, filled with small stones; the noise
these made when his troops charged, threw those of the enemy
into confusion. A dreadful carnage ensued; and amongst the
slain was the Tartar chief himself, who had met his fate from
the arm of the Persian monarch. - .
The subject of the bas-relief under consideration, may com-
memorate this achievement; and the pine-apple, or tassel-like
forms on the steed of the king, as well as on his shoulders, be spe-
cimens of the happy expedient which had promoted his victory. It
is not to be doubted that these bladder auxiliaries would be orna-
mented some way, to conceal from the apprehension of the enemy
what they really were, and also whence the noise came. The battle
is said to have been fought near the city of Rhey ; and the un-
finished bas-relief, still extant amongst the rocks above that place,
appears to be a repetition of the same event; for the head of the
horse there, and the shoulders of the warrior, are appendaged
with similar fringed orbs. . . . .
Baharam the Fifth, surnamed Gour, whom these two sculptures
so probably commemorate, reigned eighteen years, beloved by
- 3 Z 2 -
/
540 - THIRD BAS-RELIEF.
his people, and dreaded by his enemies, before the fatal ca-
tastrophe befel him in the chase, which terminated his life,
A.D. 438. *
The third bas-relief (Plate XXI.) is found in a perfect state,
when compared with the others; and consists of four figures.
The principal one is mounted on horseback, and certainly a king,
from his whole attire. His crown is mural-pointed, and sur-
mounted with the huge balloon-shaped mass of the former
sculptures. The hair from under this diadem, which is not
otherwise ornamented, flows on each side of the head in thick
bunches of curls. The face is well cut with a marked expression
of stern pride. The beard is disposed like that of the king in
the first bas-relief This figure too has a large pearl hanging to
his ear, and a string of the same round his neck. A robe,
clasped upon the breast, floats in ample waves at his back. His
tunic resembles that already described on the person of the king
in the first bas-relief; but here we see the whole of it; there,
only to the hip. In this figure, it flows in many a twisting in-
tricate fold to half-way down the thigh, where it meets abutton,
which seems to confine a trowser of a similar drapery kind of
taste, and reaches as low as the ancle : there, the foot is broken
off; but we still see a pair of ribband-like streamers which have
been attached to it. His left hand clinches the hilt of his sword,
which hangs to his belt, with the ends of a sword-knot pendant
from the hilt. His right arm is stretched out, while he grasps
in that hand the clasped hands of a person, who stands in that
posture of submission before the head of his horse. The trap-
pings of the animal are simple: a large rose ornaments the
breast-plate or leather so called, resting nearly on the shoulder
of the horse; a second decoration of the same kind is attached
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THIRD BAS-RELIEF. 541
to the strap that passes under the tail, and lies on the flank.
The tail itself is curiously twisted with ribbands, and garnished
with floating ends. A chain, coming from under the seat of the
figure, and hanging down over the side of the horse, sustains a
large tassel; which is so perfectly represented as to allow me to
describe it particularly. It seems to have been nothing more
than a quantity of hair, silk, or probably gold fringe, issuing from
an acorn-like head; forming a singular appendage to equestrian
trappings; but I should presume a useful one, to disperse, by its
motion, flies from annoying the horse. .
Behind the royal figure, stands a man holding his right hand
up, in the attitude of enjoining silence. A round-topped cap
covers his head, with a sort of badge on its side, like part of a
flower. Several close braids of hair hang from beneath it. The
face is considerably damaged; but, certainly, never had beard nor
mustachios; and looks more like a eunuch than a woman, which
probably he was, and as likely one of that order of attendants,
which used to be denominated mutes. The third figure in the first
bas-relief appears to have the same character; only half of this
person is seen, from the chest upwards; the rest being covered
with a large open scroll, on which an inscription is written in Peh-
livicharacters, very full, but much defaced. & It consists of seventy-
eight lines. I copied two or three of them, to preserve a memo-
randum of the writing; and have to lament that it was not in my
power to accomplish more. I can have no doubt that it con-
tained the history of the subject in question. The length of the
scroll is eight feet, and the inscription covers half its surface.
There are two figures near the head of the horse, habited in
the Roman garb, their heads bound with chaplets of laurel. I
have already mentioned that the royal personage on horseback
542 THIRD BAS-RELIEF.
grasps the hands of the one of the two figures which stands up-
right. To put the hands between those of another, who claims
superiority either by inheritance or conquest, has, in many
countries, been considered the acknowledging act of submission
and vassalage. The other Roman is bent on one knee, with his
arms extended in a supplicating posture; and the expression of
his face declares the same. Both figures have large rings round
their ankles, probably intended by the victors for the fixture
of chains; such bracelets never having been a part of the Roman
dress. The whole length of this excavation is thirty-seven feet;
that of the horse occupies fourteen of it. I cannot praise the
general execution of the piece; the human figures, as well as
the horse, being heavy and ill-proportioned ; and all, with the
exception of the heads of the king and the horse, very roughly
worked. Those heads are evidently by a different hand from the
one which completed the rest. -
The great similitude in the face of the Persian king in this
group, with that on the coins which I have seen, and have in
my own possession, of Shapoor, the second monarch of the
Sassanian dynasty, and the Sapor I. of the Roman history; also,
the diadem being the same; and the subject of this design
agreeing so well with the prominent event of Shapoor's reign,
his conquest over the Roman Emperor Valerian, and the cir-
cumstances connected with it; I can hardly entertain a doubt
that this sculpture is meant to record the deed. The unfortunate
Roman prince, venerable in years and bravery, not only found
himself surrounded by the Persian arms, but in the midst of a
treacherous host, who had assisted in betraying him. Valerian
knew that the prisoner of fair combat, is generally treated with
some degree of respect, but that he who is taken by foul means, can
THIRD BAS-RELIEF, 543
expect nothing but insult from his captor; and this was verified
in the scene before us. On the instant that Shapoor seized his
captive, that proud monarch put a double disgrace on the Roman
purple, by investing a person of no note, called Cyriades, with
the title of Emperor; and the Roman army in chains could not
but ratify the election. This man was a native of Antioch,
then the capital of the Caesars in the East; and probably, as he
immediately marched along with the Persian king to that city,
and under sanction of his own imperial dignity, resigned the
whole to the pillage of Shapoor, he had previously been
the most eminent traitor, in compassing the captivity of his
betrayed sovereign. Hence, as the kneeling figure with the
laurel, the Roman badge of sovereignty, on his brow, must be
Valerian, it would be difficult to conjecture who that other
person is that wears a second diadem of the kind, unless we
suppose him to be Cyriades. The crowned head, the satisfied
smile on the countenance, so strongly contrasted with the earnest
supplication in the face of the kneeling figure, together with the
act of vassalage declared in the clasped hands, all would seem to
urge, that this is the new emperor the Persian monarch set up
to be his creature, and to dishonour the Roman name. His
having shackles about his ancles (if they are so), like those of
Valerian, would not militate against this supposition, since he
might have thought proper to appear as a prisoner amongst the
rest, until the king distinguished him by the public investiture
of the imperial purple. - - - .
... This event happened A. D. 260, and soon after, the unhappy
monarch was led captive, with hundreds of his people brought
from the Roman settlements in the East, to assist in building
the city of Shapoor; a superb monument, as the victor intended,
544 THIRD BAS-RELIEF.
of his conquest over an emperor of Rome. Artists, of course,
of every description, would be found amongst so great a mul-
titude; and, probably, some of them were commanded to execute
these commemorating bas-reliefs at Nakshi-Roustam, while
others were employed on the same story at the vaster works of
Shapoor. The style of these I am describing, is precisely in the
degenerated taste that prevailed with the Romans at that period;
and, when transplanted here, the poverty of the execution made
it appear even worse. But the devices on the money of Shapoor,
coined after this acquisition to his empire, are so much superior
to those on the moneys of his immediate predecessors the
Arsacidae, that we cannot but see, that some Roman artists of
merit had imparted their talent to his. ar: -
It is hardly necessary to add, that the degraded emperor died
in his captivity, after having suffered indignities so cruel, that
Mr. Gibbon, in his remarks on the subject, questions the truth
of their infliction. But it seems strange that a historian, whose
eyes had been so long fixed on the sanguinary usurpations of
Rome, could have any doubt of the cruelties of ambition in
those times. Indeed, with the exception of a few rare instances,
we do not find, throughout all history, that conquest in the
heathen world was attended with any thing like the generous
conduct towards vanquished enemies, which has gradually pre-
vailed since the diffusion of Christianity. We no longer hear of
a hero dragging his slain adversary at his chariot-wheels; nor of
male and female captives, however illustrious, walking in exposed
procession in the triumphal train of a conqueror; nor of victor
kings mounting their horses, by stepping from the neck of a
captive king at their feet. In short, though Christianity has not
yet brought heaven upon earth, by destroying the principle of
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FOURTH BAS-RELIEF. 545
war in the human breast, and making men angels, it has restored
wandered human nature from the ruthless ferocity of utter
selfishness, to the nobler dispositions of man; and, by uniting
humanity with ambition, has divested war of its most terrible
horrors. - - * *
The fourth bas-relief (Plate XXII.) is a repetition of the single
combat described in the second bas-relief, between Baharam
Gour and his adversary the Tartar prince. This new edition,
if I may be allowed to call it so, of the same story, though much
mutilated, is in better preservation than the former, is designed
with more animation, and executed in a higher style, though the
horses are equally clumsy, and the riders disproportioned to
their size. The principal figure is by far too small for the bulk
of his steed. His head is crowned with a diadem in this bas-
relief; in the other it was protected by a helmet: both, however,
bear the usual badge of the royal head-dress assumed since the
destruction of the Grecian dynasty, the balloon shape in the
center. This crown is not of a bonnet form, like that he wears
in the sculpture commemorating his re-union with his queen;
nor of the mural shape worn (nearly three hundred years after
his death) by Shapoor, one of his posterity, whose bas-relief we
have just been viewing; but it is of three bending points, each
end surmounted by a rounded ornament, as well as the middle
pinnacle, which holds the usual oval form. Over the whole of
this warrior's body, may be traced the originally perfect coat of
small plate-mail. From the bottom of his waist, spreading over
the back of the horse, appears an additional defence of scales,
very nicely executed; and over it hangs a quiver, of too immense
a size for arrows; hence, we must conclude it held the kind of
darts then in use, and which we still see amongst the moun-
VOL. I. 4 A
546 FOURTH BAS-RELIEF.
taineers and Arabs. There can scarcely be a doubt, that during
both the Arsacedian and Sassanian dynasties, the military dress
and weapons of the Persian nation varied little from what they
had been before the conquest by the Macedonians, details of
which may be gathered from various ancient authors. Heliodorus
in particular, in the description he gives of the Cataphracti, or
heavy-armed cavalry, minutely designates the plates and scales
placed over each other in the armour of the horseman; in fact,
he comprises the image, by saying, that such a soldier, fully
accoutred, resembled a moving statue of metal. The figures in
this sculpture, before time or rude hands despoiled them, have
all, originally, been completely clad in this kind of scale-work.
But that the horsemen of all countries, who, in those days
warred together, were on pretty equal terms, we may readily
suppose; both parties being usually quick enough in adopting
military improvements. The heavy and long pike in the hands
of these adversaries in the present bas-relief, is precisely what
Heliodorus describes as the ancient Persian weapon, nearly what
we see in the sculptures of the age of Cyrus, and almost exactly
what we read of in other authors, as in the hands of the Grecian
invaders of Persia. But no people perhaps, unless we may
except the English bow-men, ever arrived at such an excellence
in the use of the bow, as the Persians. Plutarch, in his Life of
Crassus, draws a dreadful picture of the distress which the Roman
soldiers under his command suffered from the Parthian arrows,
which fell upon them in showers, piercing them in many places,
and, wherever they pierced, inflicting the most excruciating
tortures. When Crassus, in the last crisis of the battle, repeatedly
called on his soldiers to charge home upon the enemy, they
showed him their hands nailed to their shields, and their feet
FOURTH BAS-RELIEF. 547
transfixed by the arrows to the ground, needing no other
language to declare their despair. It may not be out of place
to remark here, that, from the time that Arsaces, a Parthian
chief, recovered Persia from the Grecian successors of Alexander,
until the Sassanian dynasty extinguished the Arsacedian race,
the whole nation went by the name of the Parthian empire; but
with the accession of Ardashir, the father of Shapoor, Persia
resumed its imperial title. - .
Having described the person of the principal warrior in this,
the fourth bas-relief, I proceed to the caparison of his steed.
Two full tassels, like that attached to the chain in the preceding
sculpture of Shapoor, are here fixed to a sort of rope, and fly,
as if from under the saddle, over the rump of the horse. Two
more are seen on the animal’s neck and chest; but their con-
necting cords are broken away. Along the belly, from the
bottom of the chest, apparently quite under the stomach, to the
hinder legs, runs a string of globular forms, hanging down in
the fashion of bells. A horseman, mounted, and also clad in
mail, rides immediately behind the diademed warrior, bearing
a standard, much like the one in the second bas-relief. This is
ornamented with five globular forms, on a cross bar. Pausanias
remarks, that, at the celebration of a Grecian festival in honour
of the sun, an olive-branch was carried in the procession; de-
corated at the top with a globe of brass, to represent the sun;
with a smaller, a little below, to represent the moon ; and divers
lesser ones, suspended in different parts of the bough, to repre-
sent the stars. The objects of worship in Persia, having from
the earliest ages been the host of heaven, and the monarchs
arrogating divinity, by claiming descent from the solar god,
might intend something of the same planetary reference in the
4. A 2
548 -- FIFTH BAS-RELIEF. . .
standard carried in their train. But, I confess, the number and
arrangement of the globes on the cross-bar are not nearly so
expressive of the matter, as the description of the solar olive-
branch. - - )
The opponent hero in this bas-relief, like the corresponding
warrior in the other it resembles, is sadly defaced; however,
parts of armour are still discernible on him also. He wears a
high helmet, surmounted by a ball or tuft, and floating ribbands;
he has similar waving appendages to his heels, and on other
parts of his person; thence, from what was observed before, he
can be no other than a royal personage. His spear is elevated
and broken ; that of his adversary seems to have passed through,
or near to his neck. The horses are grouped together admirably.
From tail to tail, they measure twenty feet. The warrior with
the diadem is eleven feet six inches in height; but the lower
part of the bas-relief, like the other it resembles, is half buried
in the earth. Indeed, I cannot have a doubt that this is only a
repetition, but better executed, of the great exploit of Baharam
Gour, effected by the stratagem of the pebbles. The dresses
are something different, but the persons and the action, nearly
the same in both. He was a monarch so suited to the
Persian character, and so entirely beloved, it cannot be a subject
of surprise to find the memorials of his reign often repeated. :
The next in rotation (Plate XXIII.) presents a piece of
sculpture, that has been drawn by almost every traveller who
approached the spot, and could use a pencil. But, on com-
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them, every one, far from correct representations. In some, a
careless eye was evident; in others, so extreme a delicacy of taste,
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FIFTH BAS-RELIEF, | 349
art, that in most respects enviable habit, made it here false to
the portrait it was to copy. In my attempt towards making
these sketches present a just picture of their originals, I have, as
faithfully as lay in my power, transmitted every defect, as well as
beauty; not omitting any thing of the contradictions between
knowledge and ignorance, in the arts of design and execution,
which are so eminently mingled in these specimens of the
middle age of Persian genius in sculpture.
The subject of this fifth bas-relief is two men on horseback,
meeting each other; the one bestowing, the other receiving, a
circlet, the badge of sovereignty. The figure on our right, as
we stand looking at it, wears a mural crown, the centre being
filled with a low semicircular caul. One long ribband hangs from
it in regular creases all the way down. His hair flows in ample
and easy curls upon his shoulders. His beard long and rather
waving, but cut square at the extremity. A robe divides on his
breast, where it is attached by a large button, and then stifly
projects outwards. A sort of surcoat reaches midway to his
knee, where it meets a long loose trowser. The toe just appears
from beneath it, accompanied by two floating bands. His right
arm is advanced over the neck of his horse, holding in his hand
a circlet, from which pends a broad ribband. He seems in the
act of presenting it to the opposite horseman, whose right arm
and hand are held out to receive it. The left hand of the figure
I am first describing, grasps a short club-like staff by the narrow
extremity. The part of the bridle of his horse, which covers the
animal’s head, is thickly studded with round plain knobs; and
large circular plates adorn the strap round his chest and buttock.
A muzzle passes from between the nostrils to the place where we
attach a curb-chain. The right foot, which is raised, touches
550 g FIFTH BAS-RELIEF.
the head of a prostrate man, with serpents twisting over a band
round his brows, in the place of hair. His eyes are closed, as if
he were dead. His ear is formed like the united ears of a rabbit.
His head rests on his right arm, and the drapery of his garment
extends behind the horse's legs, almost to that side of the exca-
vation. Two of the large acorn-topped tassels, suspended by
chains, hang from the back of the horse. The tail is carefully
arranged in a regular pointing form, and tied at the top with
ribbands. -
The opposite figure, who is in the act of receiving the circlet,
wears a close scull-cap helmet. From its crest rises an enormous
balloon-appearance, full of folds; which show that it represents
some drapery material; from this flow the usual royal floating
ends, behind. His hair falls longer, and more loosely than in
any other of the bas-reliefs, over his shoulders. His beard is,
in like manner with some other of the figures described, tied at
the chin. A robe passes over his right arm, and thence de-
volves on the rump of the horse. He wears an under-tunic, and
trowsers, similar to those of the other personage. His left hand
is held up near his face, and firmly clasped. The face has a
rather inclined position, with a reverential expression.
The bridle of this figure's horse is ornamented with roses,
where the other has plain knobs. The strap on his chest has
three lions' heads, carved beautifully in relievo on medallions.
The left foot of the animal is raised, and touches the neck of a
second prostrate figure, whose head is covered with a cap or
helmet, with some sort of badge on its side. From the back of
the neck flow the usual ribbands, which mark the highest rank.
A rich collar encircles the top of his chest. His drapery
reaches to nearly the end of this side of the excavation. The
FIFTH BAS-RELIEF. 551
horse of the balloon-crowned personage has a muzzle like the
other, and a similar acorn-tassel and chain. -
Behind this last horseman, stands a beardless youth, wearing
a high round-topped cap, on which is some distinguishing mark.
He holds a fly-fan of horse-hair near the head of the figure
before him. The mark, and the smooth chin, seem to place
him in the same rank with the figure half covered with the
scroll in the bas-relief of Shapoor. Though on a spot where
two dead bodies lie, as if on a field of battle, these figures have
every sign of peace in themselves; nothing like a sword, or a
belt that has held one, appearing about their persons. On the
breast of the horses, just above the shoulder of the animal, are
inscriptions, of which I shall speak hereafter, in the Greek and
Pehlivi characters, but both rather defaced. The length of the
excavation is twenty-one feet; the whole of the bas-relief, which
is of white marble with a considerable polish, being in the most
perfect state of preservation. The style of the sculpture is
heavy, but elaborate, and finished with much care. It differs
totally from the preceding four I have described, being in an
extremely dry taste compared with them, and very deficient in
grace and proportion. The horses are much too small for their
riders, and clumsy as Flanders mares. From every detail and
execution of the piece, it appears to have been the first excavation
of the sort made in the rock, after the production of those
specimens of remote antiquity on the mountain above.
The subject of the bas-relief seems historical, interwoven with
allegorical references; and the sense of the inscriptions, as
translated, illustrate the design of the sculptor. It is not a
matter of any surprise to find inscriptions of that era written in
both languages; Greek and native artists evidently having been
552 FIFTH BAS-RELIEF.
associated in all works of the kind since the empire of Alexander;
and we find traces of the same partnership, in the coins of the
Arsacidae, with a Pehlivi legend and Grecian device. Indeed,
from the peculiar style of this bas-relief, I would assign it to a
Greek chisel. - - . . . -
The learned Mons. de Sacey, in his “Memoires sur les Anti-
quités de la Perse,” gives the following translation of the inscrip-
tion on the shoulder of the horse that bears the personage who
receives the circlet. (Plate XXIII.) “C'est ici la figure du ser-
viteur d' Ormusd, du dieu Ardashir, roi des rois d’Iran, de la race.
des dieux; fils du dieu Babec, roi.” He thus gives the Greek.
in its renovated state, having followed the copy of Niebuhr:
TOY TO TO ſporozoN MACAAcNOY
OeOT APTałapow Éarixsuc BACIAe UN
APIANUN ex Yavoc oeuNTIOT
OeOT IIAIIAxov BAqixeuC
The Greek is written on the shoulder of the animal, between
two inscriptions; both in Pehlivi characters. The upper one is
extremely defaced; but the forms of its letters differ materially.
from those in the lower inscription, being similar to the cha-
racters I copied in the cave near Hadjee-abad. However, what
I was able to make out, satisfied me that it was only a re-
petition of the same sense, conveyed in both the Greek and
the lower Pehlivi inscription. -
On the shoulder of the horse, that bears the man who bestows
the circlet, is an inscription which the same learned professor,
translates thus: (Plate XXIII.) “C'est ici la figure du dieu,
Jupiter;” and thus restores: “ . . . . . . . ;
Touro to HPocuſiON AIOC 9eor.
FIFTH BAS-RELIEF. 553
: The inscription on this horse, is also written three times over;
the Greek being between the Pehlivi ones. The upper Pehlivi
here, corresponds in character with the upper Pehlivi on the
other horse; and appears to me to be composed of more diph-
thong letters than the Pehlivic character used in the inscription
beneath. It is, in consequence, very obscure; the alphabet
given by the Professor not extending to these varieties. The
following, in Hebrew letters, is all I have been enabled to place
in corresponding value: * - , - - - - -
- - intº Ints an ºne
- smºs * * * •
Mons. de Sacey also found, on decyphering the Pehlivi letters
according to their value with the Hebrew, that they produced
precisely the same meaning. And by all this it seems fully
proved, that none of the lower range of sculptures at Nakshi-
Roustam are of Arsacedian origin, which many learned men
have supposed, but are entirely of Sassanian work. So far their
general character; and if the sentences on the shoulders of
the horses, in this particular bas-relief, designate the names of
their riders, we must regard its design as an emblematical re-
presentation of the restoration of the ancient Persian empire, in
the person of Ardashir Babigan, the hereditary successor of the
great Cyrus, its founder. - • - . . . .
Arsaces had put an end to the Greek power in Persia,
seventy-nine years after the establishment of the Seleucidae.
His posterity reigned there, giving it the name of the Parthian
empire, for nearly five hundred years; it beginning about the
year 250 before Christ, and ending A. D. 223; when a new
revolution took place in behalf of the ancient royal race and
name of Persia. * * • * . . . . . . . .
VOL. I. 4 B
554 w g FIFTH BAS-RELIEF.
Ardashir, the son of Babeck, is recorded (Desatir B. of Shet
Sassan,) to have restored the Kaianian race, or line of Cyrus, by
his descent from Isfundeer, the celebrated Xerxes. Khond-emir
gives this account of the genealogy of Ardashir: “Sassan, the
brother of Artaxerxes (Longimanus), and therefore son to Is-
fundeer, on some family jealousy, left his native country, and
retired into the mountains of Hinde, there to pass his life in
seclusion. One of his sons, wishing to see the land of his father,
besought his permission to visit it; and when there, he became
so attached to it, that he entered into the service of a Persian
nobleman called Babeck, who governed a province under the
Parthian king, Ardavan. The governor finding the youth full
of spirit and bravery, gave him his daughter in marriage; the
fruit of the union was Ardashir; who, in gratitude to his ma-
ternal grandfather, took the surname himself of Babigan; but
in honour of his paternal grandfather Sassan, by whose blood
the ancient royal race was renewed, the dynasty assumed the
title of the Sassanian line.”
Ardashir (who was known to the Romans by the name of Ar-
taxerxes) revolted from Ardavan (Artabanes), and by his defeat
and death destroyed the last of the Parthian kings. He like-
wise reinstated the religion of Zerdusht in its original purity;
the Parthians having much debased it by the introduction of the
Grecian rites and deities. This circumstance, of mingling reli-
gions, may account for the change in the name of the same god,
in these inscriptions; in one of them the word Aios being sub-
stituted for that of Ormuzd. This divine being, according to
the doctrine of the Magi, is the Spirit of Good, created by the
Supreme God, the All-controuling Power beyond Jupiter him-
self, which the Greeks and Romans denominated Fate. It is
FIFTH BAS-RELIEF. 555
impossible to look for a moment on these two Pagan religions,
without respecting the pure philosophy of the one, and being
equally offended with the commonly promulgated doctrines of
the other. The Supreme Deity of the Persians, sends out a
Spirit of Good, whose name declares his errand. The Supreme
Deity of the Greeks, having once pronounced his fiat, appears
to take no more heed of the matter; while Jupiter, his repre-
sentative, enthroned on Mount Olympus with Venus on one
side and Ganymede on the other, exhibits all the pomp of a
god, without his virtues.
Ormuzd is intended in the bas-relief, under the figure with
the mural crown. He is there as the Protector of True Be-
lievers, and as the restorer of the Kaianian Princes; and while
his horse crushes under its feet the gorgon-headed daemon of
the Arsacedian idolatry, he presents to Ardashir (whose horse
tramples on the representative of the fallen Parthian monarchy)
the Cydaris, or ancient diadem of his ancestors. It consisted of
a twisted bandeau of intermingled white and purple, and was
always received as the peculiar mark of royalty by the Persians.
Xenophon observes, that “the great Cyrus wore a turban rising
high above his head, with a vesture of purple, half mixed with
white; white, thus mixed, no other person is allowed to wear.
(Doubtless, no other than the sovereign personage; because
white was sacred to the sun ; and he derived his descent from that
orb.) The garments round his limbs were of a yellow or golden
colour; and about his high turban he bound the diadem, or
9
wreath. His hands he kept out of their coverings.” A covering
over the hand is regarded in most countries of the East, as a
mark of subjection. Cyrus had then arrived at the full possession
of the empire, in the united kingdoms of Media and Persia; and
4 B 2
556 - FIFTH BAS-RELIEF.
at this juncture Xenophon describes the dress, observing, “ he
was so habited, to make his first procession from the capital of
Persia, to those portions of ground that had been chosen and set
apart for the gods; taking with him victims, he sacrificed on the
summit of a mountain, as is the custom in Persia, with prayer.”
This sacrifice, made in a particular place, at some distance from
the capital, is mentioned several times in the Cyropedia, and
seems to point, without any force, to the mountain-altar, or
Tackt-i-Sulieman at Pasargadae, in the plain of Mourg-aub.
But to return to the bas-relief of his great descendant
Ardashir. The figure in the sculpture that personates that
prince, stretches forth its hand to receive the wreathed symbol
of empire. His garments are all perfectly unadorned, without
any peculiarity to denote royal rank, excepting the balloon-
shape on the head, (or, shall we suppose it a globular represen-
tation of the sun, from whom the Persian kings derive their
origin P) and the flowing scarf from behind his neck, and the
ribbands at his heels. The attendant that holds the fan over his
head, is a luxury allowed in the present times, to nobles as well
àS royalty. Neither of the figures possess the majesty they
ought to designate; and, least of either, the one that would
represent the god Ormuzd. Did not the inscriptions put a bar
to conjecture, I should make a different explanation of the whole.
I should have concluded the murally-crowned personage to be
Ardashir; who, after gloriously re-establishing the Persian
empire, and restoring its religion, “ sated with success,' and
wearied with power, (as Sir John Malcolm elegantly expresses
it,) resigned the government into the hands of his son Shapoor,
after having reigned fourteen years an absolute sovereign in
Persia.” The staff in his left hand, might very well be con-

SIXTH BAS-RELIEF. 557.
sidered a rude representation of the sceptre of regal power,
which the empty, though clasped hand of the opposite person,
seems raised ready to receive. The allegorical figures beneath,
might hold the same meaning as they do at present; designating
the fall of Parthian usurpation and idolatry. But, notwith-
standing this inference to be drawn from the figures them-
selves, I am decidedly of opinion that the inscriptions tell the
real design of the artist; and, therefore, the sentiment of the
sovereign by whose order they were executed. Besides, human
majesty, in those times, being always considered with some close
affinity to the divine, the same attributes were usually given to
both: while the majesty of form, and godlike expression of
countenance, which alone can give the spiritual character
demanded, must not be expected here, they being the latest
perfections of the art.
The head-dress, and style of face, given to the figure in this
bas-relief, which is denominated Ardashir, bears the closest
resemblance to a coin in my possession, of a prince of that name;
and which is spelt, in Pehlivi characters, in the same way as it is
here written in the rock. - º
The last bas-relief that is legible, (Plate XXIV.) lies to the
north-west of all I have been describing, and consists of a king
standing in a niche, or rostrum, as if delivering an harangue. He
is habited in a simple tunic, and rests his hands carelessly on his
sword, which hangs in front of him. His head is covered with
the winged helmet, and surmounted by the usual huge oval
mass, reserved for royal heads alone. A thick cluster of curls
falls on his left shoulder. His face, which is almost oblite-
rated, looks over his right shoulder; his beard is short, and
tied in the tassel shape; this fashion, too, appears appropriated
to kings. A collar of pearls encircles his neck, and a couple of
558 SIXTH BAS-RELIEF.
immense streamers float behind him. His figure terminates at
the knees, being there met by the front of the rostrum against
which he stands. Its face is nicely smoothed, as if to receive an
inscription. To the left and right of him, appear a row of
persons, who are only seen as far as head and shoulders; the
rest of their figures seeming to be concealed behind a sort of
screen, divided in two, and between which division the king
stands. Three of these men are to his left side, two of which
have high caps bending over the forehead; from under them
hang several twisted braids of hair. Round their necks are nicely
ornamented collars; and their vests, or robes, are fastened with
a double clasp on their breasts. All these figures hold up the
right hand, in the attitude described before, of commanding
attention. The third head in this group, wears a round-topped
cap, on which is a crescent, with a small circle over it. The
figure just before him has the crescent only. None of these
are in the least defaced ; indeed, so much to the contrary, the
heads are excellently cut, and full of fine expression. Those to
the right of the king are five in number; and three out of the
five are very much broken. The most prominent in the group
has something the contour of a woman. A low bonnet is on
the head, with a double projection from its crown, pointing
before and behind, in the manner of a crested helmet; the
ornaments, though greatly injured, still shewing themselves to be
the heads of dogs or of lions. From this coiffure two small rib-
bands are pendant. Immediately behind this person, and in lower
relief, nearly obliterated, is a smaller head with a similar cap of
only one crested point, which projects its dog or lion over the
forehead; little ends also decorate it. No appearance of beard
can be traced on either of these heads; and I should be inclined
SIXTH BAS-RELIEF. 559
to think they are both females; or, possibly, a woman and a
boy. There are two other beardless persons, one to the right,
and the other to the left, of the one I suppose a female. The
head to the right, is covered with a circular-topped cap, with a
mark on it not unlike that on the fanning attendant in the last
sculpture; he too is smooth-chimned, and appears to be a youth.
The cap and badge, and beardless face, also occurred in the bas-
relief of Shapoor; but that person holding the scroll, had the
rugged visage of age; and, probably, was one of the eunuchs,
who, in old times, were such favourite attendants with monarchs
of the East. The last figure in this group, shews nothing more
than his head and shoulder; he has no covering on the head,
which fully displays the style of wearing the hair; it is short,
but waving on the forehead, and very thick and curling behind,
diverging from the back of the ears, down upon the neck and
shoulders. The whole of this head is as perfect as if just
finished by the chisel, and a very beautiful specimen of the art it
is. The beard is short and square, and the features particularly
handsome, with an expression, and general appearance, of greater
nobleness than any of the others along the line. The face .
almost speaks. At one end of the rock, entirely distinct from
the group, is the outline of an extraordinary figure notched in
the marble, not unlike the first idle drawings of a school-boy.
To say which of the Sassanian monarchs is the hero of this
bas-relief, would be difficult; since it tells no circumstance in
their history, to which we have a clew. However, the intro-
duction of so many persons has afforded a curious specimen
of the various costumes of the times. Selden remarks, in his
“ Titles of Honour,” that “the Persian royal tiara differed
from the common sort, because it ascended strait up with a sharp
560. SIXTH BAS-RELIEF.
point, not bending any way; and that, on pain of death, no
subject of the Great King durst wear a tiara, except the point
were bent over his forehead; and the descendants of those
princes who accompanied Darius Hystaspes in the assassination
of Smerdis the magian, were alone permitted to have their
tiaras with the top bent backwards.” Prideaux, whose re-
searches into the ancient histories of these countries is profound
and full of satisfaction to an attentive reader, reverses something
of Mr. Selden's account; and, but for the presence of the woman
in the group, might cast a light on these seven personages
behind the king in the bas-relief. Seven princes (of whom
Darius Hystaspes was one) having entered into an agreement to
destroy Smerdis the usurper, fixed upon a sign to distinguish
each other during the anticipated confusion of the attack. Our
learned Dean describes the affair thus : — “And whereas the
king only wore his turban directly upright, and all other persons,
till then, with its top reversed, or turned backwards; these
princes, when they went in to fall upon the magian, turned the
back part of their turbans forward, that they might by that
signal be easier known to each other in the scuffle. In memory
of which, when the son of Hystaspes came to be king, they were
ever after permitted, as an especial honour, to wear their turbans
turned forward in that manner. And from that time, the
Persian monarchs of the race of Darius Hystaspes, had always
seven-chief counsellors, by whose advice the great affairs of the
empire were transacted.” After this hint, were it not for the
female apparition in the group on the right hand of the royal
personage in this last bas-relief, we might be led to suppose it a
council of the seven sages, listening to some one of the Sassanian
kings of the line of Darius. But a comparison of its style and
details, with other works of the kind I have yet to examine in
SIXTH BAS-RELIEF. 561
this eventful country, may lead to some elucidating Te-COIl-
sideration of the subject. Meanwhile I shall just remark, that
with regard to any particular restriction being laid on a peculiar
way of wearing the turban, it is probable the privilege would be
extended in the course of time; and besides, the various
changes of dynasties which, in the flow of several centuries,
succeeded the immediate line of Hystaspes, could not but annul
by neglect, a law of fashions, then of no importance to maintain.
On the coin of Baharam Gour that is in my possession, and
which I have mentioned before as containing three profiles, the
king, queen, and young prince, (Plate LVIII. fig. 4.) the two
latter wear tiaras of this leaning-forward shape, crested at the
projecting points with the head of an animal; that over the
female brow, appearing to be a bull's or a cow's ; that on the
boy's, a hawk's. This form of bonnet, when found with these
decorations on any bas-reliefs of the Sassanian age, seems
generally appropriated to women and youths; but when plain, at
least without prominent ornament, it probably belonged to the
several orders of officers about the court; and the different flat
marks we see on it, either when so bent, or when worn quite
rounded, are likely to have been badges of the respective rank
or function of the wearer. That similar distinguishing uses have
been made of the shape or colour of a cap in after times, in
Persia, we find in the history of the Kuzel-bash, or “golden-
headed” tribes, who associated themselves to place the Sefi
family on the throne. - - --
Having examined, to the utmost of my power, the remains of
antiquity on the rock, I turned to some interesting objects near
its base. Immediately opposite to the third tomb, and about
twenty yards distant from the rock, stands a building similar to
VOL. I. 4 C
562 * | FIRE TEMPLE.
that already mentioned at Mourg-aub, and which is commonly
called the Fire Temple. This temple differs from the other, in
being higher and narrower. It has suffered no material injury
from time or accident, and afforded me an excellent model of the
sort of place, from which I drew an accurate plan and elevation.
(Plate XXV.) It is built with marble from the adjacent rocks,
each block being three feet six inches in width, but varying in
their length. One single slab forms the cornice of the northern
face, which is twenty-two feet eight inches long; an amazing
mass, to have been placed where it now is. Accumulated earth,
loose stones and rubbish, have doubtless diminished the visible
height of the building, by encroaching on its lower range; this
is very credible, from observing how the increased ground has
grown up over parts of the bas-reliefs at the foot of the mountain.
Ten layers of marble blocks are now all that we see, which give
the edifice an elevation of thirty-five feet. The entrance is in
the north front, situated about eleven feet from the earth. Its
exterior ornaments are perfectly simple. This portal is five feet
wide and six high ; leading through a wall of five feet three inches,
into the sacred chamber. The grooves for the pivots of its doors
are deeply cut, both at the bottom and the top, where they were
fastened to the sides of the wall; so that the ponderous stone di- .
visions must have met in the middle, and shut close. The circling
marks of their movement are strongly worn in the marble floor.
The chamber contained within such an immense solidity of wall
and door-way, is only a square of twelve feet, and in height does
not exceed fifteen or sixteen. The ceiling consists of two slabs,
the floor of several. The whole beneath, an unsuccessful attempt
to penetrate, has proved to be an entire mass of building, without
a cavity; it was broken just under the threshold of the door, as
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FIRE TEMPLE. . 563
may be seen in the drawing I made on the spot. The hope
of hidden treasure, no doubt prompted the violation. Small
blocks of marble, arranged at certain distances, project a short
way from the exterior face, where the entrance is. On the sur-
face of the three remaining sides, are two lines of small false
windows, each of an entire piece of dark-grey marble. I could
not find any trace of writing, either within or without the temple;
but the state of the interior of the chamber supplied the place
of an inscription, in proclaiming the ancient use of the edifice.
There was no aperture in the room but the door, to admit light
or air, and the walls were perfectly black with smoke.
That it formerly held the sacred fire of the Magi, there can be
no doubt; but I would venture to suggest, that it was not as a
temple, where the rites of the religion, of which it was a part,
were performed, but as a kind of sacristy, a repository for the
preservation of the element during the suspension of the great
solemnities. The confined dimensions of the building within,
and its closeness, sufficiently prove that few priests could move,
or long breathe in it; the walls witness the constant flame that
has been there; and hence, as there was no space for sacrifices,
or indeed rites of any kind, we can only suppose that here, a
duly relieved watch of one or two Magi tended the preservation
of the everlasting fire night and day; and, from its unextin-
guishable fountain, supplied the priests for their diurnal sacrifices
in the temples, or on the high places. The building at Mourg-
aub, which answers in appearance to the one I am describing,
from its proximity to the immense marble platform on the rock,
on which I suppose the kings were inaugurated, and the great
public sacrifices made, corroborates these opinions. That the
fire was not kept perpetually in the temple where the religious
- 4 c 2
564 THE SACRED FLAME.
rites were to be celebrated, is evident from the account Xenophon
gives of one of Cyrus's processions to make a great sacrifice, in
which he says, “Next to the bulls, there were horses led, for a
sacrifice to the sun. After this proceeded a chariot, with its
horses adorned with scarlet trappings; and behind it, followed
men that bore fire upon a large altar.” -
The sacred flame in these repositories was never allowed to
go out, except, it is said, on the death of a king; and on that
event, it would appear from Diodorus Siculus, the fire became
extinguished. But he may mean that portion of it only, which
might be additionally brought forward on a monarch's accession,
and on his death be permitted to expire with himself, to
give a more awful solemnity to the event. For Strabo, and
other authors, positively imply, that the great fountains of this
holy element in the temples were never to be extinguished.
Such was the care taken of its purity, and to preserve it from
any blast of air, that it was fed with wood stripped of its bark,
and never blown with bellows; indeed, so far from being even
breathed upon, the priests never drew near it, without linen cloths
over their mouths. From the smoky appearance of the vaulted
roofs of the tombs in the rock of Nakshi-Roustam, lights must
have been burnt there also ; and, whether in lamps or on an
altar, of course they would be kindled from the repository I
have just described. Several ancient writers inform us, that the
sepukhres of the Persian kings not only contained the royal
bodies, but consecrated offerings of great value; hence it became
necessary to watch the place, not merely on account of religious
reverence, but to protect the accumulated treasure with a constant
guard : and affection united with state ceremony in establishing a
custom, that some one of the favourite servants of the deceased
t -
CUSTOM OF WATCHING THE DEAD. 565
monarch should devote himself to the duty, and be the guardian of
his remains. The chief eunuch of Darius Hystaspes passed the
last seven years of his life in the tomb of his master: and the usage
of such gloomy vigils is still to be traced amongst the existing
followers of that prince's faith; the Parsees of Yezd, and those
of India, always placing a watch in the sepulchre of their dead,
who never quits the spot till he is relieved by another; or more
frequently remains there, till he himself dies. So strict are they in
this duty, the sentinel must not leave his post for any purpose
whatever, not even to see his dearest relations; every thing must
be taken to him by others; and those he wishes to see, must
go to him, for he cannot come to them. A most melancholy
entombment alive. And when we consider him seated alone,
from year to year, in that narrow and dismal cell, the walls
darkened to the hue of perpetual midnight by the gradually
collecting smoke from the lamp, which it is the business of his
life to gaze upon and watch, that no breath of air should
extinguish it; when we think of the cold gleam it casts on his
only companion, the ceared-up body of his dead master; one
cannot imagine a more gloomy scene, or one more calculated to
craze the senses of a poor imprisoned wretch. : .
On quitting the last bas-relief, a very few paces brought me
to the termination of the rocks to the west; at which angle
they take an abrupt turn to the north, but soon bend round with
an amphitheatrical sweep to the westward again; whence they
join the high cliffs commanding the passes that lead into the
Ispahan road by the way of Imaum Zada Ismael: and in this curve
they also form a boundary to the north-western side of the luxu-
riant plain of Merdasht. I skirted the mountains on my right a
little way, to see if any more relics were to be found; and I had
566 ALTARS ON THE ROCKS OF NAKSHI-ROUSTAM.
scarcely gone sixty yards when I discovered, close to the plain, a
large projecting mass of rock, out of whose solid substance had been
cut two altars, almost in contact with each other. (Plate XXVI.)
The height of their bases, from the level of the ground beneath,
did not exceed twelve or fourteen feet. Both stand on the
same platform of rock, which is gained by a flight of steps hewn
out of its side, and ascended from the south. The form of each
altar is a square of four feet six inches. The corners are blunted,
by every one having a heavy and rudely-shaped column running
up its side, and resting on a square plinth. A kind of zone
terminates the top of these columns, from which springs an arch.
The whole is crowned with an architrave, ornamented with a
range of cylindrical forms. The shape of the altars narrows up-
wards, so that their upper surface or plane measures, in each,
a square of three feet eight inches. In this square top we find a
hollow of the same form, excavated to the depth of eight inches,
and one foot two inches wide. Although the shape of these do
not correspond exactly with the altars on the neighbouring
tombs, nor with those on the different Sassanian coins, their
forms manifest their use; and are very interesting specimens
of perhaps, the gradual progress of sheltering the sacred fire,
when it was brought out of its own especial tabernacle to form
part of the mountain rites. $
Both Herodotus and Strabo assert, that the Persians had
neither images, altars, nor temples; and that they offered up
their sacrifices on mountains, or high places, with extreme sim-
plicity, to the Supreme God, and to the sun and moon. This
ought, unquestionably, to be understood of the Persians in the -
very earliest times; much antecedent to the age of Herodotus
himself; for, on examining nearly collateral testimonies, we
ANCIENT RELIGION OF THE PERSIANS. 567
find how rapidly that simplicity became magnificence, how soon
the images of men usurped the altars of God. The Desatir, a
very ancient Pehlivi work, and the Dabistan, compiled from the
old Gueber writers, give accounts to support the conclusions we
may draw from Xenophon and others, to the fact of such early
changes. We learn that the primeval religion in Persia was
the worship of the Great First Cause, typified in the solar orb ;
and that he was adored in the open air, from an idea that any
human temple would have seemed to exclude the Deity. Burnt
sacrifices could hardly be otherwise than open to a space whence
the flame of the pyre might freely ascend; but some altar
must always have been demanded; some spot distinguished
from the common rock or earth, on which the holy offering was
to be laid; therefore, whether it were a mere platform of
marble, or an elevation of stones, it mattered not; the shape
was nothing; such an appropriated place, Sanctified by its use,
was an altar, to be recurred to again and again for the same
purposes of worship. The simplest principles and rites of the
Mithratic religion, appear to have prevailed in Persia till the
Assyrian conquerors (long previous to the time of Cyrus) over-
ran the country, and encumbered it, first with the polytheism
of the moon and stars, and secondly with a train of graven
images. The earliest native annals extant, some of which I
have just named, notice these changes from their primitive
faiths. After the pure ages of the Mah-abad kings, and a
grievous interregnum, when all sorts of anarchy broke loose,
they tell us, that a Distributor of Justice appeared in the person
of Kaiamurs, who founded a new royal line, and lived in all ways
according to the precepts of their first prophet, the holy Mah-
abad. But Houshong, the son and successor of the Distributor
568 ANCIENT RELIGION OF THE PERSIANS.
of Justice, commenced a new religion, or rather added to the
old; for, “ discovering the element of fire, in an accidental col-
lision of flint stones,” he supposed it an emanation of the sun,
imparted to those earthly substances; and calling it the Nour-e-
khodah, or light of God, ordered it to be worshipped. This
innovation was followed in the next reign by another, for his
son Tahamurs introduced the idolatry of images. This latter
monarch is mentioned as the uncle of Jemsheed, the great
founder of Persepolis, and ancestor of Cyrus. I have referred to
these native writers, who, though full of confusion in their ac-
counts of persons, places, and times, yet afford us some satisfac-
tion, by shewing that a vague memory of actual events has sur-
vived amongst them, through all the changes of their country;
and that the Greek accounts of what happened before and after
the era of Cyrus, though dispersed by these writers into totally
different periods, may derive elucidation from even their scattered
lights. Hence, I would deem it probable that when the mountain-
altars, or other high places, were open to the air, as they cer-
tainly were in the time of Cyrus, that the sacred fire was not an
object of adoration in itself, but only considered holy as an ele-
ment first kindled by the sun, and by whose consuming agency the
sacrifices were offered to that orb, or rather to the Divine In-
telligence it contained. In this view we find the fire borne
to the sacrificial altars in the processions recorded by Xeno-
phon, in the eighth book of the Cyropedia. But when Zo-
roaster (or Zerdusht) pretended to bring the sacred flame direct
from the presence of God, then what was before only sanctified,
became divine; and henceforward it appears to have shared
the honours of worship. We find that it was by the suggestion
of this new prophet, that Darius Hystaspes made so great
an alteration in the religious rites of his kingdom; “ that
&
ALTARS ON THE ROCKS. 569
he caused fire-temples to be built wherever he came ; for
whereas hitherto the kings had erected their altars on the tops
of hills, and there performed their adorations in the open air;
where often, by rains or other accidents, the sacred fire was
extinguished, and the holy offices disturbed.” 'But the previous
union of the simple and manly Persians, with the gay and luxu-
rious Medes, and afterwards, by conquest, with the magni-
ficence of Babylon, gradually increased the splendour of the
Mithratic rites; and laid them open to the corruptions of the
more extended paganism, which, in after-ages, profaned the
land of the Sun with many strange altars, long before the inva-
sion of Alexander claimed one for the Jupiter of Greece. The
Parthians, who followed the Grecian successors of Alexander in
the empire, professed the ancient religion ; but the worship
they affected to restore, was only an entangled web of all that
had preceded them ; and not until the accession of Ardashir .
Babigan, who revived in his own person the Kaianian, or
line of Cyrus, were the real doctrines and rites of Zoroaster
re-established. Hence it is probable that under his direction
these two altars of Nakshi-Roustam may have been hewn, as
an example of the original simplicity of the religion he renewed;
or they may even be as ancient as Darius Hystaspes himself; and
afford a specimen of his first attempt at placing a protection
round the sacred fire, in the shape of the cylindrical forms
which parapet the summit of the altar; and from there being
no memorial extant of any similitude to these altars having
existed in either of those ages, these rough-hewn stones
may as reasonably be attributed to the one time as to the
other; and the arched form used as ornament on their sides,
may have been suggested to the Magi by the natural bend in
VOL. I. - * 4 D
570 ALTARS ON THE ROCKS.
the Mithratic caves, the first tabernacles, without doubt, of the
sacred fire. -
Not far from the altars, we began to ascend the mountain.
Its face was steep and rugged, but still it was accessible without
forcing us to the expedient by which we had mounted to the
tombs. As we advanced we saw a small marble column, which had
neither capital nor base, appearing where the heights break off
to the west; and on gaining the highest point of the rocks, im-
mediately over the perpendicular where the sepulchres are ex-
cavated, we observed several large spots of different dimensions
cut out of the level of the mountain, as if for the floors of rooms.
The one of greatest space is a square of more than twenty feet;
and on its surface we found three or four steps, elevated above
each other in the manner of a pedestal to a throne, or an altar.
It is just over the sepulchres, and probably was coeval with
them. On that spot, when the royal personage was entombed
beneath, the funeral sacrifices might have been performed.
Indeed it bears a striking resemblance to the elevated platforms
on the bas-relief of the tomb, where the Archimagus stands.
Finding nothing more to detain us above, we descended to the
lower ground, towards the north-west, in search of the inscrip-
tions mentioned by Mr. Morier, but could not discover them. I
observed nothing particular during this part of my ride, except-
ing a few square holes of different sizes and depths, cut in the
sides of the rocks. Every where else was wild, and as abandoned
to nature as if the footsteps of man had never been there; and as
I turned round, to view the venerable scene again, before I put my
horse to the spur to carry me back to my quarters, the wide ex-
tended solitude of the mountain above, the tenantless and highly-
wrought tombs in its bosom, with the gigantic figures at its base,
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PLAIN OF MERDASHT. 5'71
like men of another age turned to marble, all these awful forms,
with the silence, and magnitude of every object, gave a parti-
cular grandeur and solemnity to my last impression of Nakshi-
Roustam. e -
June 21st. I left the village of Hadjee-abad this day; crossing
its valley, and river, at a short distance from it; and continuing
along the base of the hills, on its southern side, for about three
miles, till they terminated nearly opposite Nakshi-Roustam.
We then bent to the south-west, still close to the mountains,
and so entered the celebrated plain of Merdasht, in whose bosom
lies so many treasures of antiquity. A ride of two farsangs more,
brought us to the village of Kanarah, which is situated about
two miles from the ruins of Persepolis ; and within its humble
walls I set up my head-quarters, while examining the interesting
relics of one of the most splendid capitals in the world.
June 22d. This morning I rode about a farsang back, along
the plain, on the road we came yesterday; and at the foot of one
of the mountains called Nakshi-Rajab, which constitute the
Persepolitan range, approached a large natural recess formed of
rude masses of rock, receding and projecting in a variety of
picturesque shapes. On the faces of three of them, I found as
many historic bas-reliefs. That to the right (Plate XXVII.) is the
same in subject, but in smaller dimensions, of the one at Nakshi-
Roustam which represents the two colossal horsemen holding the
royal circlet between them. There is so much difference in the
compositions, that the prostrate bodies are omitted in this, and the
execution is evidently of a later age and less skilful workmen, The
figures are more clumsy, and the draperies all in a flutter. It is
greatly mutilated, but not by time; the marks of savage violence
are scarred over it in a thousand places; and have passed on to
4 D 2
572 BAS-RELIEF AT NAKSHI-RAJAB.
commit the same outrages on the sculptures in its neighbour-
hood. Chardin mentions, that soon after the death of Shah
Abbas the Great, the prime minister of his unworthy successor
ordered sixty men to be employed every day for a certain length
of time, in the sole business of destroying the ruins in this plain.
Some disgust had been taken at the passion European travellers
had shewn to visit these remains; and thus a barbarous policy
attempted to sweep them from the earth. - -
The costume in this bas-relief is similar to that of Shapoor
in the sculpture with Valerian, having the like curling drapery
falling from the thigh to the ankle. But the king's crown here,
resembles that of the queen's in the sculpture of Baharam Gour,
and is appendaged with vast volumes of floating streamers.
The length of the excavation is seventeen feet; and like its
companions, is begun six feet from the ground. The next,
occupies the center of the recess, (Plate XXVII.) and is a repe-
tition of the former subject, only the actors are on foot. With
one hand, each person holds the wreath firmly between them,
while with the other they grasp a couple of strong staves. Their
head-dresses, robes, &c. are like those they wear at Nakshi-
Roustam, with this only difference, that the king in this
sculpture has no flowing curls. Two attendants stand behind;
one is beardless, with the usual badged cap, and holding a fly-
chaser; his companion is resting on the pommel of his sword.
In the rear of the other great personage, stands a long pole, on
the top of which appears a half-defaced square mass. Near it are
two figures, with visages hideously ugly, yet having the contour of
women. A couple of very small forms are still visible between
the principal ones, but so demolished as only to allow us to
trace with great difficulty that they carry something resembling
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BAS-RELIEF. - 573
an ancient standard. Taking this altogether, it is the most
inferior of any specimen I had hitherto seen of the ancient
Persian sculptor; the proportions being bad, and the work
extremely rude. It appears coeval with the superior labours of
the kind at Nakshi-Roustam ; and, though far beneath them in
merit, it is valuable on account of showing the fashion of the
sword at that time, and the mode of carrying it. The length of
this excavation is only fifteen feet. - - . . .
The third bas-relief is by much the largest. It has suffered
so deplorably from the mallets of the destroyers, that hardly a
face of the whole group, which fills the marble, has a feature
left. The leading personage is evidently royal ; he is on horse-
back, preceding a train of followers on foot, who appear to be
all in one position, leaning both their hands on their swords,
which are fastened in front of their belts. These men are
habited in tunics, trowsers, and outer close vests clasped on the
breast. Their collars, belts, caps, and every other accoutrement,
differ not in the least from each other; hence we may suppose the
originals represented the favourite guard of the monarch: but the
disproportions in their effigies, and their utter violations of every
law of perspective, amount perfectly to the ridiculous. The
king and his steed are in better taste, for although the latter be
of dray-horse bulk, it is full of spirit. His majesty, too, is not
deficient in royal port; and his decorations are answerable. He
has an abundance of curls on each side of his head, and quantities
of floating drapery. His body is covered with a vest, most
fantastically pointed, and curiously chiselled. It reaches mid-
way down his thigh, where it meets a dagger attached to his
side by an endless involvement of ribbands. Near - its point we
discern something like loose trowsers, which flowing downwards,
574 REMARKS ON NIEBUHR'S INSCRIPTION.
terminate near the ankles in a couple of waving ends. A rich
collar binds the top of his vest, and an additional crossed band
of pearls appears below it; the waist also is bound by a cestus
of the same costly material. The present king, Futteh Ali Shah,
wears a similar ornament on days of ceremony. The remains
of a high diadem, and its balloon summit, finish the regal dress.
Both hands are broken away. The trappings of the horse differ
little from the caparison we saw on Shapoor's stately animal
at Nakshi-Roustam, and has a similar chain or rope, attached to
an acorn-tassel, now almost obliterated. An inscription, both
in Greek and Pehlivi, is engraved on the breast of the horse;
but part of the latter runs out on the wall, just before and under
the nose of the animal. I subjoin the renovation of the Greek
by Mons. de Sacey, in his Memoires sur les Antiquités de la Perse,
&c. He has followed Niebuhr's copy, which, strange to say,
having been made so many years anterior to mine, exhibits an
inscription much more defaced than I found it. This may be
seen, by comparing the large letters in my copy on the drawing,
with the large letters in this; the smaller being introduced by
the learned foreigner to complete the general sense.
To II.OCoIION TOTTO MAC32CNOT ©eOY
CAIIop O’ſ éACIAeuC 6ACIAeuy apia NuN
KAI ANAPIAyun ex yeNOYC Oeuly viou
MACô2CNOT O60'ſ APT2:APO'ſ Ézaixsw;
BACIA6UN APIANUN 6K TêNOvg Gewy
€K TONOY G)6O'ſ IIAIIAKO'ſ BACIAswg.
“C'est ici la figure du serviteur d'Ormuzd, du dieu Sapor, roi
des rois de l’Iran et du Touran, de la race des dieux; fils du
serviteur d'Ormuzd, du dieu Ardashir, roi des rois de l’Iran, de
la race des dieux, petit fils du dieu Babeck roi.”
ANCIENT SWORDS. 575
From this translation, supported by that of the Pehlivi, which
gives precisely the same meaning, we find that the king here
represented, is Shapoor the First, at the head of his guards, or
nobles, in some royal procession. It is fortunate, as a me-
morandum of antiquity, that the swords of these men are in such
good preservation; they differ so entirely from every description,
given by old writers, of the weapon called a sword by the ancient
Persians. The change from the old form, is said to have been
introduced by the last Darius, in imitation of the Greeks, in the
time of Philip ; and from which innovation, the Chaldeans pro-
phecied the downfall of the Persian empire by Grecian arms.
(Q. Curtius, l. iii, cap. 3.) But every sword that I have seen
amongst these remains has been invariably straight.
About half-a-mile westward on the plain, is a large and high
square platform, of perfectly smooth white marble, around
which, at a little distance, are several heaps of ruins, seeming
to be the remains of some considerable edifice which had
formerly surrounded an extensive area, of which the superb
platform, whatever might have been its superstructure, formed
the center. From the various mounds and scattered fragments,
lying all the way between this spot and Tackt-i-Jemsheed, and
again further to the south-east, I cannot doubt that the capital
stretched along the whole foot of the mountain, even to con-
necting itself with Nakshi-Roustam, and thence extended to
the north-west upon the plain. At about a farsang's distance
from hence, rises a pointed hill, on which is the appearance of a
considerable building. This, I concluded to be one of the three
fortresses mentioned by the Asiatic author Hamdoullah, under
the names of Istaker, Chekesch, and Chekwan, and which of old
formed the great bulwarks of the plain. But the people of
576 PERSEPOLIS.
Hadjee-abad, and Kanarah, seemed to know nothing of the
matter, when I enquired particularly about the most famed of
them all, that of Istaker. * * *
Having returned from the sculptured recess of Nakshi-Rajab,
my whole attention became absorbed in the ruins of Persepolis,
the great capital itself, which lies in latitude 29° 59' 39".
I settled my people at Kanarah, and followed the same plan in my
daily excursions I had adopted at Nakshi-Roustam. On the morn-
ing of the 23d, under a sun which made a fire-altar of the rock, I
began my investigations. Certainly, a positive knowledge of the
original names of ancient cities, is a great satisfaction to both
historian and antiquary ; but since these magnificent remains
are sufficiently recognised, to identify their having made part of
the splendid capital of the East, so long celebrated by authors
under the name of Persepolis, it seems to me a subject of no
material consequence, that we do not know whether it were
primevally called Elamais, Istaker, or Tackt-i-Jemsheed. After
the establishment of the empire by Cyrus, it is well known that
he and his immediate descendants divided their residence chiefly
between Babylon, Susa, and Ecbatana. He was a conqueror
long before he was a king; and while Cambyses, his father,
reigned in Persia and occupied his own capital; and Cyaxares
his uncle yet lived, and maintained his state in Ecbatana, the
principal city of the Medes; Cyrus resided at times in Babylon,
which he had subdued, and then afterwards at Susa, when the
death of Abradates gave the whole province to his generous prince
and friend. Cyrus did not live more than eight years after he
became master of the empire, and therefore could not have had
much time to distinguish Persepolis by any long residence there;
though we find that he often went thither, as well as to his sacer-
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PERSEPOLIS. 577
dotal city in the neighbourhood, to bestow the beneficence of
a king upon their inhabitants, and to offer his oblations to the
gods. We learn from everal writers, that at different periods
both Cyrus and his successors had added to the splendours
of the city which the Greeks called Persepolis. (Strabo. Diod.
Siculus.) Xenophon clearly points out its situation, by noticing
its no great distance from the frontiers of Media. But however
the Persian monarchs might choose to pass their lives, first in one
capital, and then another, of their wide dominions, their ultimate
repose was always sought in the sepulchral caves of their native
mountains. Here we see their tombs; and the most authentic
historians testify, how almost invariably their remains were
transported hither. The traces which were left of the once
great and flourishing capital of ancient Persis, have been gra-
dually disappearing ever since the year 982, when the final blow
which destroyed it as a city, was struck by Sumeanah-a-Dowlah,
a vizier of the caliph of Bagdad, then master of Persia. Suc-
ceeding princes and their ministers, (though seldom either of the
native race,) continued an extraordinary hostility to these memo-
rials of former greatness; as if the destruction of the works and
earthly monuments of the illustrious dead, could destroy the me-
mory of virtues which can never die But notwithstanding these
incessant dilapidations for so many ages, mighty ruins yet sur-
vived; and a few human beings still found a dwelling-place
amongst its roofless walls, so late as the the sixteenth century;
but, “how was the glorious city become dim " We are told that
only a few huts then occupied the courts of the successors of
Cyrus. Mons. Favine, in his curious and chivalric “Chronicle of
the World,” published in Paris about the year 1619, gives an in-
teresting account of how the very subject we are now discussing
VOL. I. - - 4 E
578 PERSEPOLIS.
was considered by scholars in his days. “The capital city in
the kingdom of Persia (he says,) was named Susa. It was
thwarted with the great river Choaspis, of which water, and none
other, the kings of Persia used to drink, in whatsoever place
they were. At one parasangue from Susa, (a parasangue con-
taineth three-score stades, which made seven thousand five
hundred paces, amounting to two miles or thereabout, at four
thousand paces for a mile,) was a village called Persepolis for
excellency, and therein was a temple, dedicated to Pallas, the
goddess of arms, and named Pasargadis, in which temple the
monarchs of the Persians were crowned.” It is curious to see
how a really learned man of that period has abridged the distance
between these two ancient capitals; and while he shows so much
knowledge concerning the history of the places he names, how
he makes so great a jumble of their relative positions; yet, it is
not unsatisfactory to find, from what he says of the temple of
Pasargadae, that opinion had then placed its site so near the
situation where we believe its ruins stand ; if not within the
boundaries of Persepolis, yet not many farsangs from them.
To attempt any guess of the period when the city of Persepolis
first rose from the plain, would be as useless and bewildering as
to analyse its various names; the means now in our hands, of
forming any satisfactory conjectures respecting its origin, can only
reach to the probable era of the different remaining ruins; by
comparing their architectural fragments and sculptured relics,
with the yet existing specimens of these arts in those countries
which were once connected with Persia either by conquest or
alliance. The most conspicuous remains in Persepolis, or, as the
natives call it, Tackt-i-Jemsheed, (the throne of Jemsheed,) are
Chehelminar, or the Forty Columns. The immediate impression
PERSEPOLIS. * 5'79
that struck me in my first walk amidst them, was, that en masse,
and in detail, they bore a strong resemblance to the architectural
taste of Egypt. A circumstance which need not be a matter of
surprise, since the early wars, mutual conquests, and reciprocal
captivities of each other's subjects between the sovereigns of this
part of the world, may well account for a general resemblance in
the building of their cities, and even in the manners of their
people. And when we recollect certain particulars in the
history of Egypt, we may more readily understand why we find
the columns of the Nile on the plains of Persia. About forty
years before the conquest of Babylon by Cyrus, Nebuchadnezzar
over-ran the whole of Egypt, and loading himself and his army
with the rich spoils of the country, returned to Babylon with a
multitude of captives. This great conquest achieved, and after
having made an end of all his other wars, he set himself down
to erect and to finish the great buildings of his own gigantic
city. Hence, what is more probable than, in consequence of the
family relationship between the Persian monarch Cambyses
(who had married Mandana of Media, the sister of Amyitis, the
queen of Nebuchadnezzar) and the conqueror of Egypt, that he
should be permitted to share in the talents of the ingenious,
amongst the captives of his kinsman and ally P And again, when
Cyrus the son of Cambyses annexed Babylon to his empire, and
brought away with him its treasures and artisans into other
cities of his kingdoms, Babylon would then yield the lessons it
learnt in Egypt, to the Persian conqueror. And if these are not
enough to account for the Egyptian appearance of Persepolis,
Diodorus Siculus gives ample details of the expedition of
Cambyses the son of Cyrus against Amasis, and his successor
Psammenitus; both princes having refused the usual tribute to the
4 E 2
580 PERSEPOLIS,
new sovereign of the empire. The Persian monarch soon subdued
his refractory tributary, and carried away from Thebes the
richest ornaments of its edifices, to decorate his palaces of Susa
and Persepolis; besides, he wisely accompanied the spoil with
Egyptian workmen, to place them properly in their new stations.
(Diod, Sic. l. i.) These artisans must have been amongst the
six thousand captives of Egypt, whom Cambyses brought from
thence, and which are mentioned by Ctesias. Future princes
followed the same example, of adorning their capital with the
talents, as well as treasures of the countries they conquered, till,
in the words of Q. Curtius, “Persepolis became the glory of the
East; no other city existing that could be compared to it.” But
the description that enters closest into particulars, is that of
Diodorus Siculus; and ere I repeat my own observations, I shall
give an extract from him, that what he says may be compared
with my sketch of the ruins of the Palace of Forty Pillars; and
the correspondence between the past and the present will be
more clearly seen. - -
“A triple wall encircled the place. The first wall was six-
teen coudes in height, defended by parapets, and flanked with
towers. The second wall was in form like the first, but twice
its elevation.” These two embattled walls were probably built
out pretty far on the plain, and not a trace of them remains.
But to return to our historian. —“The third wall is a Square,
and cut in the mountain, being sixty coudes in height. It is de-
fended by palisadoes of copper, and has doors of the same, of
twenty coudes high. The first wall is to inspire awe, the second
for strength, and the last for the defence of the palace. To the
east of this, about four hundred feet distant, is the spot called
the Royal Mountain, containing the tombs of the kings. Here
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PERSEPOLIS. 581
the rock is hollowed out into several chambers; to gain the
entrance to which the coffins are hoisted up by machinery : no
other way of ascending to them exists.” - -
I shall now proceed with the result of my diurnal investiga-
tions, which the general plan of the place subjoined will addi-
tionally illustrate. (Plate XXX.) It includes the part of the
mountain that lies immediately behind the great platform of the
immense square cut from the rock, which Diodorus describes;
as, no doubt, this division of the hill comprises what that his–
torian calls the “Royal Mountain.” There the tombs are to be
found. The connection of this sacred inclosure with the great
plane of the edifice below, naturally comes within the bounds of
what might be called the castellated palace. On the ground
above, appear several mounds and stoney heaps, marking three
distinct lines of walls and towers; which may readily be traced
by the observer who does not estimate fatigue when in pursuit
of information. They were a protection to the city on this
side ; which, otherwise, might have been exposed to invasion
from the higher ground. Their situation and direction will be
seen in the plan ; and may convince us, that a palace so well
defended on all sides, was rightly named by Q. Curtius, when
he called it a bulwark of the capital. His words are, “From
the situation of the palace, partly on the rock, and partly on
the mountain, it became a kind of citadel.” When the Arabs
attacked the still remaining strength of Istaker, or Persepolis,
at the close of the reign of Yezdijerd the last of the Sassanian
race, in the year A. D. 642, the slaughter was so great in this
dilapidated capital, that every part of it was covered with the
dead. But, they must have possessed themselves of these
higher works, before they descended to the destruction of the
582 PERSEPOLIS.
rest; innumerable quantities of arrow-heads being found from
time to time, along the ruins of the walls above, also over the
ground below, and on the tops of the remaining walls of what is
called the palace. -
The artificial plain, on which the ruins of this immense royal
citadel or palace stand, is of a very irregular shape; probably it
was in a general way the original form of the rock, and the
projector judged, in cutting it, that as long as he obtained
the expanse demanded, the nicety of the square on the ex-
treme verge, was of little consequence. However, like the
foundations of all the great works in Egypt, connected with
religion and the monarch, this platform faces the four cardinal
points. The scale on which the plane is drawn, will show the
return of all the angles. The following is the full extent of each
face. That to the south, is 802 feet, to the north 926, and to
the west 1425. The level on which the buildings have been
erected, is become exceedingly uneven, by being raised in parts
by the accumulation of fallen ruins, and the soil which from
various causes collects in time over such heaps. To the north-
west, considerable masses of the native rock show themselves
without encumbrance, and still bearing the marks of the original
hammers and other implements with which the higher pieces
had been hewn down to the level required. In the same direc-
tion, just beyond the face of the artificial plain, the rock pro-
trudes itself in vast abrupt cliffs, but still showing traces of not
having quite escaped the pick-axe, which had spread the great
surface in their neighbourhood. In deeper cavities, the pro-
gress of a quarry is visible; part of the rock in some places
being half hewn through ; and in others, lying in completed
slabs, ready for removal. Indeed there are plain indications,
PERSEPOLIS. • 583
both above and below, that even at the close of the last branch
of the Kaianian dynasty, this superb structure was not deemed
entirely finished. It was a costly gem, to which every succeed-
ing hand thought it could give an additional polish. But what
had already been done, could not be exceeded; nor can any
thing ever transcend the strength and beauty with which the
rocky terrace has been constructed. Its steep faces are formed
of dark-grey marble, cut into gigantic square blocks, exquisitely
polished; and, without the aid of mortar, fitted to each other
with such closeness and precision, that when first completed, the
perfected platform must have appeared as part of the solid
mountain itself, levelled to become a foundation for a structure
whose yet proud columns may bear a date of above two thou-
sand years. The height of the platform from the ground is in
general considerably lowered from what it was in the time of
Diodorus's description. The encroachment of ruins and vege-
tation, and other heaping-up matters, at its base, have raised
hillocks against all the sides, making rough slopes where once
were the smoothest perpendiculars. I measured them in several
places; and at a spot near to the group of columns, its present
perpendicular line is thirty feet; but from observation, there
can be no doubt that, might we clear away all that hides this
beautiful wall, we should find an additional depth of twenty feet,
and most probably more. The southern side, at this time, does
not rise higher than eighteen or twenty feet; and, I think, never
could have exceeded thirty. To the north it varies from sixteen
to twenty-six. This spacious artificial plain, may be said to
consist of three separate terraces. The first, and lowest, embraces
the whole length of the southern face (T), and is in width one
hundred and eighty-three feet. The second contains the whole
584 PERSEPOLIS.
of area (UU). The third and most elevated (V), has been
entirely covered with buildings, and certainly the most magni-
ficent of the whole. Along the edge of the lowest terrace,
larger masses of stone remain in different spots, which appear
fragments of a parapet wall: they are worked with the same
colossal strength, and gigantic proportions, as the rest of the
edifice. On the edge of the third, or highest terrace, to the
south, are decided marks where a strong range of railing or
palisadoes have been. These marks cease at the top of the
flight of steps which connect this terrace with the one beneath,
(N). At the top of the steps we find two large holes, cut deeply
in the stone, which received the pivots of the gates, that anciently
closed this ingress. I have thus given a general idea of the
ground on which the great citadel-palace, “the glory of the
East,” stood in “the day of its beauty and its power.” I shall
now, in detail, describe the ruins that remain. --
There is but one way by which the summit of the platform is
attained, and that consists of an ascent by steps, situated in its
western face. This approach is so stupendous, and on a scale
so magnificent, that it fully prepares the mind for the correspond-
ing forms of vastness and grandeur it is to meet above. A
double flight of stairs on a very gentle ascent, rise north and
south, emerging from a flat place, which is gained from the face
of the valley, over a considerable slope of accumulated ruins and
rubbish. This space occupies 45 feet by 22, the latter measure-
ment forming the width of the steps; each step is three inches and
a half in height, and in all they number fifty-five. The masons
had not required many blocks of marble for their structure, each
block being so large as to allow ten or fourteen steps to be cut
into its solid mass. The size of the base these cover is 67 feet
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RUINS OF PERSEPOLIS. 585
by 22. On ascending the first flight, an irregular landing-place
presents itself, of 37 feet by 44, from whence springs a second
flight, formed of forty-eight steps, and covering 59 feet by 22.
A couple of corresponding staircases terminate on the grand
level of the platform, by a landing-place occupying 64 feet. I
dropped a line from this upper landing-place to the lower one,
and found the distance produced was 29 feet. As there cannot
be a doubt that the present visible height of the platform is not
much more than half its original elevation from the plain, so
the length of the flights of stairs from the plain must have been
abridged in the same manner. The beauty and ease of the
ascent which remains, will readily be understood, when I mention
that I invariably rode my horse up and down them during my
visits to their interesting summit. It struck me as a singular
taste, to have made the only entrance to this vast space, not in
the center of any one of its faces, but so much to the contrary,
as to be 961 feet from the southern face, and 208 from the
northern. - - -
On reaching the platform, the first objects that strike the
astonished traveller, are the lofty sides of an enormous portal,
(C). The interior faces of its walls are sculptured into the forms
of two, immense quadrupeds, which, on nearer approach, we
found to represent a couple of colossal. bulls. (Plate XXXI.)
They look towards the west; their heads, chests, and fore-legs
occupying almost the whole thickness of the walls in that
direction, the rest of their bodies is left in relief. A kind of
pedestal, formed of two blocks, elevates them five feet above the
level of the platform. On the fine surface of the hewn stone,
which forms the portal, and at a considerable height over the
backs of the animals, are three small compartments, and all
VOL. I. 4 F
586 RUINS OF PERSEPOLIS.
filled with the arrow-headed inscriptions. Whatever may have
finished the top of these walls, is so totally destroyed, that not a
vestige remains, to give the least ground of judging whether a
friezed cornice and flat roof connected the gate-way at its
summits, or that they always stood as they do now, perfectly
separated. The heads of the bulls are entirely gone, but enough
is left of the animals to show distinctly what they are. In the
one I have drawn, the cloven foot of a bull, with the strong
outlines of his form, are very apparent; and the bold, powerful
fixture of his station, is particularly striking and grand. The loss
of his head deprived me of the only means of knowing whether
he carried one or two horns; but I have no doubt on the
subject, every symbolical animal of the kind, that I have seen
in Persian architecture, having only one horn. Round the necks
of these bucolic sentinels are broad collars of roses, executed
with the most critical nicety; and over the chest, back, and ribs,
extends a kind of decoration resembling short curling hair, but
cut with a correctness and delicacy of chiselling so peculiar to
Persian sculptures of antiquity, that I have been elaborate, I
may say to a hair, in delineating such distinguishing marks of
the art and its epoch. ' The proportions of the animals are
admirable; and, although the manner of their execution be sec,
yet there is a corresponding grandeur in their forms, which
perfectly accords with the prodigious scale on which all around
them is designed.
The dimensions of the wall that forms one side of the portal,
are as follows. Its breadth, facing the west, is five feet, and its
length twenty-one; its height agrees exactly with what Niebuhr
calculated, thirty feet. The proportion between it, and the
Persian who stands with his back against its outer side, in
COLOSSAL BULLS. 587
the drawing, will give a tolerably correct idea of its sublime
appearance. The one wall is distant from the other about
twelve feet, and the intervening space finely flagged with
beautifully polished slabs cut from the neighbouring rock. In
having thus described one side, I need only say that the other
corresponds to it exactly. On both, I am sorry to say, I found
a cloud of initials, and names, and dates, of former visitants to
the spot, to the no small injury of the fine surface of the stone.
In the very learned and distinguished observations made on
the remains of Persepolis by Professor Heeren, I have found
cause to remark, in more than one instance, how that gentleman
has been led astray by the incorrect manner in which travellers
have copied these bas-reliefs. I am certain that if he were to be
standing on this platform, and viewing the portal, he would im-
mediately pronounce that the two colossal animals which support
the portal, are bulls, and in no way resembling the monociros
of Ctesias. He supposed this extraordinary creature to have
existed in the mountainous tract north of India, and east of Persia,
bordering on the desert: indeed, it is there that he finds pasture
for all his fabulous animals. The bulls at the gate of Persepolis
have all the marks of the most powerful strength; a neck muscular
and short, with joints gigantically knit, and a force of muscles,
which show the perfect knowledge of the artist. The broad
ornamented chest, and the position of the animal, are full of
a ponderous majesty. It is something extraordinary, to see such
weight of body and limbs, united with such spirit in the attitude,
and action of the muscles, that the whole seems ready to move
from the great mass to which it is attached. The tail and cloven
hoof differ totally from the wild ass, and indicate decidedly the
animal to which they belong. Supposing that the head were
4 F 2
588. COLOSSAL BULLS.
here, and that we found it had only a single horn, still that
would be no just ground for affirming that the creature it
belonged to, must be the monociros of Ctesias. A little recol-
lection of the opinions entertained respecting the bull by certain
nations of the East, and the ancient Persians amongst others,
will be sufficient, when connected with its colossal image on the
stone, to make us apprehend that it was planted here for a
profounder reason than mere ornament. In Egypt, Syria, and
India, the animal was worshipped as a divinity. The Indians,
who adore their gods in symbols, conceived the bull to be the
best representation of creative energy, and therefore worshipped
Seeva, the Creator, under its form. The Apis of the Egyptians
received divine honours from the same reason. The ancient
Persians peculiarly venerated the bull, from the lessons they had
learnt of the Chaldean astronomers, of its association with the
sun when that genial luminary enters the constellation of Taurus;
an event which filled the whole nation with joy, as proclaiming
the approaching renovation of nature; and the Magi, more clearly
to impress on the people the regenerating power of this celestial
conjunction between the divine Mithra and the planetary
emblem of the animal most useful in replenishing the earth,
ordered that, on great occasions, the bull should be slain in
sacrifice to that creative god. But, from this very circumstance
of its having been made a victim, we learn that, however vene-
rated, it was not regarded as an object of worship itself. From
first to last, in all its figured appearances on Persian remains, it
seems a point of some emblematic imagery. In many places of
these ruins I shall have to notice allegorical combinations of men.
and animals, also to speak of animals alone; and the present sta-
tion of the bull stands the first in the range, seeming a very apt
COLOSSAL BULLS. 589
symbol of Power, that kept the gate of the great king. Through-
out all pagan mythology, we find the bull set down as the emblem
of power, and the lion, of royalty. The lion and the bull, either
singly, or in forms compounded of both animals, are found some
way connected with almost all the ancient structures in Persia;
and the frequent recurrence of this kind of hieroglyphical
inscription on the architraves of palaces, or the sides of gates,
or the roofs of temples, may easily be read as declarative of the
royal power by which they are all sustained. The horns of an
animal are another symbol of strength, or perhaps we had
better say of force, since they are only useful to the owner as a
weapon of attack or defence. The strength lies in the bull; the
act of force, in the horn with which he strikes. Two or more
horns rising from the same head, in the hieroglyphic language
of the East, being generally understood to represent the number
of kingdoms under the command of some supreme monarch;
why might not the single horn on the head of the bull be typical
of the concentrated force of an empire? But the prophet Daniel
(who wrote in this very empire) thus explains the position of such
a horn: “And the great horn that is between his eyes is the
first king;” (Dan. c. viii. v. 21.) meaning the founder of an em-
pire. A single horn representing Cyrus, on these symbols, in the
same way that Daniel speaks of Alexander under this figure as
founding the Macedonian empire on the ruins of that of Cyrus.
In the Zendavesta, it is stated that the bull was the first
created animal; that his essence proceeded from the moon, and
from him sprung men, and all other animals. Some remarks of
Mr. Faber on this subject, to be found in that invaluable treasury
of profound learning, his work on the “Origin of Pagan
Idolatry,” are highly illustrative of the true meaning attached to
590 RUINS OF PERSEPOLIS.
this mythological account of man being the offspring of the
moon and a bull. This strange fable, if believed by the Persians,
would certainly increase their reverence for the image of their
horned ancestor; but that they had no notion of worshipping
the animal, either in reality or in effigy, may be corroborated by
the fact of Cambyses, the son of Cyrus, stabbing the Apis of
Egypt in indignation at so gross an idolatry. Xenophon, who
remarks that the bull in Persia is held sacred to Mithra, also
gives an account of its being led as a victim in the great
triumphal sacrifice by Cyrus. On the chest of the bull, at the
gate I have been describing, a large radiated orb is sculptured.
Proceeding onward to the East, (D) at the distance of twenty-
four feet in a direct line from the portal, once stood four mag-
nificent columns. They were all erect at the time Sir John
Chardin visited Persepolis. Two only now remain ; but not a
relic of their companions. They were placed equidistant from
each other at twenty-two feet. The accumulation of ruins now
mouldered into earth, has nearly buried the bases of those which
yet stand. Their capitals are singular and beautiful; (Plate XLV.
fig, B.) consisting, as it were, of three combined into one. The
shaft gradually narrows towards the top, varied by thirty-nine
flutings near the cincture, each of which is four inches in width.
The tor is thirteen feet ten inches in circumference; and from
thence to the top of the capital is about forty-five feet. As the
base on which it rests, seems to differ in no respect from others
I shall have to describe, to prevent repetition I omit its descrip-
tion here. The surface at the top of the capitals is perfectly
smooth, without the least vestige of any loose fragment; and I
should be led to imagine, that when the four stood erect, and
were united, they might have sustained the plane or pedestal of
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MAJESTIC SYMBOLICAL SCULPTURES. - 591
some sculptured symbolical image. I have before mentioned
that these columns had been placed at about twenty-four feet
from the first portal; an equal space separates them from a
second (E), which differs in no way from the preceding, either
in form or dimensions, excepting that its length is eighteen feet
instead of twenty-one. The inner sides of this are sculptured in
like manner with the other; but the animals represented here,
are of a very extraordinary formation. (Plates XXXII. XXXIII.)
Their size is gigantic, like the others; but their appearance is
monstrous. They have the body and legs of a bull, ornamented
with similar trappings to those already described ; but an
enormous pair of wings project from the shoulders, extending
high over the back, and covering the breast, whence they might
seem to spring, as the whole chest is cased with their plumage.
The huge feathers which compose the wings are exquisitely cut;
corresponding to each other, with the usual care so peculiar to
the earliest sculptors of this country. The heads of the animals
look direct to the mountain, which is due east, and show the
faces of men; but the blind zeal of the viziers of the caliphs, if
not some later hand, has terribly mutilated the features; yet
enough remains of the whole visage and its appendages, to show
that it was meant to symbolise no ordinary personage. The
expression of the countenance is severe; and a long and care-
fully curled beard adds to the majesty of the general air. The
ears are those of a bull, and from them hang large drop ear-rings
of a very elegant form. On the head is a cylindrical diadem,
on both sides of which, horns are clearly represented, winding
from the brows upwards, towards the front of the crown ; the
whole being surmounted by a sort of coronet, formed of a range
of leaves like the lotos, and bound with a fillet beautifully
&
592 RUINS OF PERSEPOLIS.
carved in roses. We find the hair ranged over the forehead
in the usual style of the ancient Persian kings; the beard, also,
is disposed in the way peculiar to royalty; but the hinder hair
lies in long and close curls round the back of the neck, totally
differing from any of the bas-reliefs in other parts of the ruins.
From the top of the crown to the hoof, the animal measures
nineteen feet. Three compartments of incription are cut in the
wall over his body.
This is the only specimen known to exist in Persia, where the
human and bestial form are conjoined; in vain I sought for
any trace of a similar union ; and I have been assured by the
most unquestionable authorities, that no other can be discovered,
either here, or in any other part of the kingdom. Various
opinions have been conceived of its meaning; and amongst
others, Mons. Anquetil du Peron advances very cogent reasons
for supposing it to be a symbolical representation of Noah, the
second patriarch of mankind, the great legislator of the earth,
and instructor in all the arts tending to human comfort. Mons.
de Sacey considers it to be the emblem of Kaiamurs, the first
sovereign of the Paishdadian dynasty, (whom the Zeenut-ul-
Tuarikh derives as third in descent from Noah ;) and he draws
the name Kaiamurs from Gaw-i-mird, bull-and-man. But it is not
less interesting to observe how this singular hieroglyphic might
be attributed to Cyrus himself, whose empire over the East was
prophesied by Ezekiel, under almost the same figure, upwards
of fifty years before his accession. The prophet beholds in a
vision, the symbolical images of the four great empires which
are to succeed each other until the coming of the Messiah; and
he thus expresses himself: “And their feet were straight feet; -
the sole of their feet was like the sole of a calf's foot, and they
\
ANTIQUITIES OF PERSEPOLIS. 593
sparkled like the colour of burnished brass. Their wings were
joined one to another; they turned not when they went; they
went every one straight forward. As for the likeness of their
faces, they four had the face of a man, and the face of a lion on
the right side: and they four had the face of an ow on the left
side: they four also had the face of an eagle.” (Ezek. ch. i.
ver, 7.9, 10.) Daniel foretels the empire of the same prince,
under a similar union of the human with the bestial form, de-
scribing it as a lion with eagle's wings; and he adds, that he
gazed on it till “it was lifted up from the earth, and made stand
upon the feet as a man, and a man's heart was given to it.”
(Dan. ch. vii. v. 4.) Commentators have explained the human
attributes, given in these symbolical imageries, as prophetic of
the peculiar wisdom and clemency of Cyrus's character. But
whatever be the real intention, in the bull-man, which is here
planted in the ancient seat of the earliest monarchs of the East,
in the gate of his palace, his attributes fully answer the general
idea of an emblematic reference to a just sovereignty. In the
bull-form, we have the plenitude of power; in the human head
and regal ornaments, the sovereign and the sage; in the exalted
horns, the force of action, and a lofty sense of the awe it inspires;
and the wings may either typify the celestial descent, or the
kingly activity, or the parental protection, of the royal character.
On turning to the right of the portal, an expanse of a hundred
and sixty-two feet lies between it, and the magnificent terrace
that supports the multitude of columns, from which it takes its
name. One object alone, interrupts the attention in our progress
towards them; this is a fine and conspicuous cistern, hewn out of
the solid rock, in dimensions eighteen feet by sixteen. It stands
now only three feet above the level of the rock, or rather earth
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594 CHEHEL-MINAR, OR
that has collected over it. Subterraneous aqueducts filled it
with water; and as another of these channels runs in a parallel
line to the west, it is probable that a corresponding reservoir
may have been in that direction.
On drawing near the Chehel-minar, or Palace of Forty Pillars,
which is the name given to this splendid division of ruins, the
eye is riveted by the grandeur and beautiful decorations of the
flights of steps which lead up to them. This superb approach
consists of a double staircase, projecting considerably before
the northern face of the terrace, the whole length of which is
two hundred and twelve feet; and at each extremity, east and
west, rises another range of steps: again, about the middle,
projecting from it eighteen feet, appear two smaller flights rising
from the same points. Here the extent of the range, including
a landing-place of twenty feet, amounts to eighty-six. The
ascent, like that of the great entrance from the plain, is ex-
tremely gradual; each flight containing only thirty low steps,
none exceeding four inches in height, in breadth fourteen inches,
and in length sixteen feet. The whole front of the advanced
range is covered with sculpture. The eye, at first, roves over
it, lost in the multitude of figures, and bewildered by the
thronging ideas instantly associated with the crowd of various
interesting objects before it. But I took time to distinguish
every figure, to examine all its peculiarities, and to copy them
as distinctly as I could; (Plate XXXIV.) and this drawing being
done to a regular scale, with a description in explanation, will,
I hope, give some just impression of the general aspect of so
magnificent a piece of work. -
The space immediately under the landing-place is divided
into three compartments. The centre one has a plain surface, as
THE PALACE OF FORTY PILLARS. 595
if intended for an inscription : probably, writing may have been
there, which is now obliterated. To the left of it, are four
standing figures about five feet six inches high, habited in long
robes, with brogue-like buskins on their feet. They each hold
a short spear in an upright position, in both hands. The
fluted, flat-topped cap, before described on other bas-reliefs, is
on their heads ; and from the left shoulder hangs their bow and
quiver. The nicety with which all the details are executed,
render these sculptures particularly interesting to the historian,
and to the historical painter; they mark the costume of the
time and the people, and their progress in the form, variety,
and use of arms; and in the latter instance, I cannot omit no-
ticing the clearness with which they show the ancient method of
stringing the bow, and the manner of attaching the leather cover
to the quiver, which protects the feathers of the arrows from
damage. Being an old bowman myself, these peculiarities of
archery were more readily observed by me. -
On the right of the vacant tablet are three figures only. They
look towards the opposite four, and differ in no way with respect
to their robes and fluted helmet; but they have neither bows
nor quiver; carrying the spear only; with the addition of a
large shield on the left arm, something in the shape of the body
of a violincello; or rather, I should say, exactly in the form of
a Boeotian buckler. It appears extraordinary, that none of these
armed figures wear any thing like a sword or dagger; but on ex-
amining all the sculptures throughout, I did not find the represent-
ation of what we call a sword, on any one of them. As this seems
to have been the grand approach to the entrance of the palace
above, doubtless the spearmen just described must have been
intended to pourtray the royal guards; the fashion of whose
4 G 2
596 ANCIENT ROYAL GUARDS, IN
dress accords perfectly with the account given of it by Herodotus,
(b. v. c. xlix.) who states that “they were armed with a bow
and a short spear, and habited in long robes, with their hair
flowing full behind.” When describing the army of Xerxes, he
writes, – “The Persians defend their heads with a small helmet
called a tiara ; their bodies are covered with sleeved tunics of
various colours: upon these are plates of steel, like the scales
of a fish ; their thighs are protected in the same way. They
are armed with large bows and arrows, the shafts of which
are reeds. They carry a short spear; and for defence use a
shield denominated gerra : beneath it is the quiver; and on
their right side is a dagger hung from a belt.” — In neither of
these descriptions do we find a sword mentioned; but Xe-
nophon, in his Cyropedia, particularly names it, whenever the
arms of the Persians are noticed. From all this, and never
finding the vestige of a sword on any of these most ancient bas-
reliefs, I am led to think that when the authors of greatest anti-
quity speak of the Persian sword, they can only intend this
dagger-like weapon, the 2xiv.ºwn; of the Greeks, and the acinaces
of the Romans, the poniard, so accurately delineated by Hero-
dotus, being invariably worn on the right side. We find another
sort of weapon of the kind, mentioned by writers as having been
in use amongst the Persians; such as the copis of Q. Curtius.
(b. viii. c. xiv.) But I should regard this latter, as the short
falchion peculiar to certain tribes immediately bordering on the
shores of the Euphrates, and the Persian gulf, who would, at
times, serve in the Persian armies. . It is described as curved,
like the dagger of the present day, which is in use amongst
their descendants. * “ . . .
Before I proceed farther in describing these memorials of
THE PALACE OF FORTY PILLARS. 597
perhaps, the most interesting empire of the earth, I shall sub-
join what Xenophon narrates of the change of dress which Cyrus
introduced amongst the leading people of his native Persia,
when he united that kingdom with the realm of Media. “Cyrus
was of opinion that princes should not only excel those under
their dominion in virtues, but in appearance also. Hence he
chose to wear the Median robe, and persuaded the companions
of his exploits to do the same; urging, that if a man had a
defect in his person, the flowing drapery concealed it; and if he
were of fine proportions, the nobleness of the dress added to the
dignity of his stature. With this habit, they adopt a sort of
buskin, between the sole of which and the foot, a small substance
may be introduced to elevate the wearer to any increase of height
he pleases. -
“Cyrus also allowed his associates to colour their eyes, that
they might seem to have finer eyes than the rest of the people,
and gain respect from their beauty. He was careful however to
keep their manners as severe and decent as before, exhorting
them never to be seen to spit, or blow the nose, or to commit
any other sort of irreverence before the people. When he made
his first grand procession from his palace, he called around him
all those, both Persians and others, who were high in command
under. him, and distributed to them Median robes: it was then
that the Persians first assumed that dress; and when he had
given the finest robes to the greatest men, he produced others
of a less costly sort; but they were sufficiently gorgeous in colour,
being scarlet, and purple, and crimson; and presenting them to
the chiefs he had already adorned, bade them dispose these as
they pleased amongst their friends. So these men, going their
ways, and sending for those most dear to them, arrayed them as
598 COMBAT OF A LION AND A BULL, AT THE
the king had said. And afterwards, when the day of procession
came, Cyrus appeared without the gates, in a vesture of purple
mixed with white, (a union of colours which no one else is
allowed to wear;) yellow stockings, or buskins, were on his legs;
a robe, wholly of purple, on his shoulders, and a high turban on
his head, bound with a diadem or wreath. His kinsmen wore
the like mark of distinction, and they have it to this day. His
hands he kept out of their coverings. When his chariot advanced,
four thousand of the guards led the way, and the chiefs about
his person, to the number of three hundred, finely clothed, and
with javelins in their hands, followed after on horseback.”
(Cyrop. b. viii.) Thus much of the description is sufficient for
my present purpose.
Two angular spaces on each side of the corresponding groups
of spearmen, described on the surface of the staircase, are filled
with duplicate representations of a fight between a lion and a
bull, (Plate XXXV.) a most spirited and admirable performance.
The bull is decorated with the same kind of curled hair over its
chest, back, and tail, which ornaments his similitude at the gate
of the first portal; but with this difference in the additional
ornaments, the collar of the animal in the combat is perfectly
plain, and there is no radiated form on his breast; here, the
head is perfect, and we find a single horn projecting over his
forehead. From the circumstance of a collar round the neck of
the bull, it proves him to be no wild one, and that we are not
to understand the combat as accidental. But whether it may
be received as a proof, that such conflicts were brought forward
before the Persian people, is another question. That wild
animals of the untameable sort were not merely hunted by the
bold spirits of these Eastern princes, but preserved near their
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PALACE OF FORTY PILLARs. 599
palaces, is evident, from the lion's den which we find at Babylon
after its conquest by Cyrus; but by no accounts that I can
recollect, does it appear that the beasts so immured were ever
used for sport of any kind after their first capture. Every
historian of these countries, and all remains of the principles of
their religion, bear one testimony to their tenderness for the
brute creation; and the fondness of the people for the chase no
way contradicts it; for it certainly is one thing to the humane
feelings of a man, whether he engage in the open sports of the
field, often putting his own life as much to hazard as the
animal's he hunts, or sits at his ease to see two noble creatures
pent in an arena, tearing out each other's brave hearts for his
amusement. Had any thing of this sort been customary with
the Persians prior to the time of Cyrus, we should have found
some trace of it in the games he established after his accession
to the empire; but we read only of horse and chariot races, and
similar exercises, calculated “to raise emulation in men to
perform great and intrepid actions.” -
Hence, as we are not to consider the bas-relief under discus-
sion, as representing a combat between two animals in any thing
like the Roman fashion; the question remains, are they, like the
bulls on the portals, allegorical figures? Were we to regard this,
group in a point of view analogous to the mysteries of the Zend-
avesta, it might be supposed to allude to the conquest of
Ahriman, the power of darkness and of evil, over Ormuzd, the
power of light and goodness, in the person of his creature the
bull, or bull-man, which the Zend-avesta represents as having
been so subdued; but I cannot imagine that the devout Persians
would have any gratification in thus celebrating the defeat of
the power whom they worshipped. Besides, there is one
600 ANCIENT BAS-RELIEFS AT THE
argument conclusive against the idea. Ahriman is invariably
described, when assuming a visible appearance, as under the form
of a serpent or a dragon, clearly pourtraying the subtilty and
fierceness of the character. But in this bas-relief, we find the
bull is in the grasp of a lion, the usual symbol for only the
most royal virtues: and as Cyrus himself was typified in the
East, under the form of “a lion with a man's heart;” and the
Assyrian empire under the form of an ox, or a bull; it does not
seem improbable that the conquest of Cyrus over the two great
empires of Assyria and Babylonia, united at Babylon, should be
typified on each side of this ingress to his palace, by the lion's
seizure of the one-horned bull; the single horn being so large and
twisted, as very well to symbolise the union of a double power.
But to return to the description of the subject as a piece of art.
The more it is examined, the more distinctly we see that the
sculptor, whether native or foreign, was master of his business.
With an admirable ingenuity, he has adapted his group to the
form of the space, by placing the bull in a rearing posture, as if
from the pain occasioned by his antagonist's double grasp ; the
lion having seized him by the back and loins, not only with his
teeth, but by his claws. The fire, beauty, and truth, with which
these quadrupeds are hewn, may appear hardly credible to one
who has not beheld them on the spot; for no artist of Greece or
Rome could have been more faithful to the proportions of nature,
or shewn more knowledge of the anatomy of their forms. But it
must be remarked, that wherever any of the brute creation are
represented amongst these relics, we always find their limbs,
muscles, and actions, given in a more perfect style than when
the same sculptor attempts the human form. The same ob-
servation will be found to hold good with regard to the
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PALACE OF FORTY PILLARs. e 601
antiquities of Egypt, Syria, and India; and my only way of
accounting for the consummate knowledge in one respect, and
as conspicuous ignorance in the other, is, that the frequency
of seeing the most minute dissections of the brute creation in
the daily sacrifices; also the variety of their actions under
seizure, of the tame; and of the wild, when hunting; would give
to these sculptors of old, advantages that our artists can hardly
attain ; while the superstition that universally prevailed against
putting the hand on a dead man, prevented all insight into the
laws of the human frame. . - * * -
On the inclined planes, corresponding with the slope of the
stairs, runs a kind of frieze, on which is cut a line of figures,
one foot nine inches in height, (Plate XXXVI.) answering in
number with the steps, each one of which appears to form a
pedestal for its relative figure. The figures themselves ap-
pear a lengthened rank of those already described on each
side of the blank tablet ; and a similar range runs up the oppo-
site slope. As the lines of figures are so disposed as to face
each other, both looking towards one center-point, those on
the right present their left sides to the spectator, by which
the whole of the bow and quiver they carry, are more accurately
seen. A narrow border of open roses, closely set, finishes the
upper edge of the frieze, while an equal number of figures
ornament the interior face of the same staircase. We can have
no doubt, in casting our eyes over the numbers, the uniform
dresses, arms, and positions of these men, that they are the
stone effigies of the vast body guard, the Doryphores, which
once held an actual station on these very spots. Cyrus, after
the conquest of Babylon, chose ten thousand spearmen from
amongst his faithful Persians, for this very purpose; and
VOL. I. 4 H -
602 ANCIENT BAS-RELIEFS AT THE
Xenophon adds, that in his day, the royal guard was still kept
on the same footing. These men had already received the
distinguishing mark of honour, the Median robe, (the Kaliaut
of that time, and probably the origin of the custom ;) and also
the high cap worn by Cyrus himself. This description of the
great King's munificence, and equalizing his general appearance
with that of his immediate followers, fully accounts for the
similitude of the caps and robes, in these ranges of figures, to
the head-dress and raiment of the royal personage in the bas-
reliefs which express himself. But with regard to the high cap,
or tiara, when mentioned as a universal costume with the
Persians, we should recollect it was of many varieties, and not
always to be considered as resembling the royal turban, or tiara.
On examining the bas-reliefs, it will be found that none of the
figures wear the same-shaped high cap with the sovereign's, but
those who are distinguished by the same full robe; hence, all
who appear in that garb, though stationed where modern
refinement would only place a guard of rank and file, may be
esteemed the kinsmen and friends of the king, to whom alone
he gave the privilege of wearing the form of the royal tiara.
The diadem of Cyrus is described by Xenophon, in two parts;
the turban or high cap, and the wreath or cydaris; but the
materials alone, seemed what he held sacred to the kingly
dignity. Mons. Favine describes the eydaris as “round, yet
- pointed above like a sugar-loaf,” quoting several authorities to
that effect; and indeed the ancient writers, to whom alone we
can look for information on the subject, speak so confusedly of
the forms and fashions of the royal Persian head-dress, that it is
almost impossible to obtain any clear notion about the matter.
Probably that which they so frequently name the curved tiara,
PALACE OF FORTY PILLARs. 603
cyrbasia, originated with Darius Hystaspes, when he, as well as
his six associates in the death of Smerdis the Magian, bent
forward their high caps, to distinguish each other by that mark in
the confusion of the fray. When he mounted the vacant throne,
he privileged his six coadjutors, with their families and descend-
ants, to wear their caps in that fashion; thus, in the manner of
Cyrus, distinguishing by a badge similar to that on his own
brow, an especial band, attached to his person by the strongest
motives, affection or self-interest. In the course of time, these
sorts of particular distinctions became so general, by the multitude
of real descendants from such privileged families, or pretenders
to that honour, that they ceased to be badges at all; as we see
in the green turban of the Islamites, which used to be the mark
of the Prophet's race, and is now become as common as the grass
of the field, by the false pretensions of a multitude of wearers.
This may very naturally account for the confusing appearance of
all these respective styles of tiara in the bas-reliefs of the later
kings, where they are of every form, and apparently dispersed
amongst all ranks of people. Before I quit this range of guards,
I must not omit mentioning, that at the extremity of the spears
of the least mutilated, I observed an ornamented ball, which
recalled to my mind the Melophores, or thousand guards of
Xerxes, who bore at the end of their lances, apples or pome-
granates of gold. (Herodotus, vii. c. 61.) -
I now proceed to the objects on the face of the next flight of
stairs, first taking the left wing, which stretches to the east.
Here again, in the triangular space formed by the slope of the
steps, we find a repetition of the contest between the lion and
the bull, occupying a length of twenty-three feet. It is divided
by a tablet, on which may be traced an almost obliterated
4 H 2
604 ANCIENT BAS-RELIEFS AT THE
inscription, which reaches nearly from top to bottom, at present
six feet ten inches deep, and in width four feet ten inches; from
whence begin the lines of three rows of sculpture, all sadly
defaced, but covering an expanse of sixty-eight feet, and ter-
minating at the top of the steps of the outward approach. Of
the upper row of figures, their lower extremities alone remain,
appearing no deeper down the surface of the wall than twelve
inches; the rest having risen above the level of the terrace to
form a kind of parapet, but it is now totally broken away, and
vestiges of it may be seen thickly scattered over the ground
below. - - - -
This deplorably mutilated row of figures, commences with a
chariot drawn by two bulls; a second follows it; then comes a
horse, with the feet of a man appearing on its opposite side, as
if in attendance on the animal; again, two others in succession ;
then five figures habited in short vests; and after them comes an
uninterrupted suite of forty-four long-robed spearmen. It is
curious to observe how the rotation in this procession resembles
that of Cyrus to his first great royal sacrifice; the chariots and
the bulls, and the led horses for sacrifice to the sun, the
spearmen, &c. &c. A border carved with roses, divides each
row of bas-relief from the one below it. By the frequency of
these ornaments, we see how indigenous the rose has ever been
in this country, and how admired from the earliest times. -
The next begins with a range of thirty-two figures, (Plate
XXXVII.) of which every alternate one is clothed in along robe,
its full loose sleeves reaching to the wrists, and its flowing skirts
to the ankles. In front, about the center of the waist, the robe
appears gathered up, both for convenience and grace of drapery ;
for there, connected with a girdle, it falls in regular folds over
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PALACE OF FORTY PILLARS, 605
each thigh; and where the knots of the belt are tied, is stuck a
dagger, the handle of which exactly resembles that worn by the
Persian of the present day. What is discoverable of the upper
part of the sheath, shews a very singular form, not unlike that
of the Malay Creesse. These figures in the flowing robes,
always have earings, and collars, and some, the addition of
bracelets. On their heads they wear the high fluted tiara,
covering a bushy fulness of hair, profusely curled upon the neck,
and combed up from the forehead, with a termination of curls
there also. The beard partakes of the same taste, and is not
long, but ending rather square. The feet are enveloped in the
sandal buskin. ...And in this range, we find the figures so habited
always holding the hand of the person immediately before them,
or the one as immediately behind ; a circumstance which would
imply their belonging to the establishment of the king; and so
leading forward persons, comparatively strangers, to the presence.
With the exception of one or two, they all hold in their right
hands a flower, resembling the lotos; and several of them have
a cased bow hanging on the left hip.
The other alternate figure is attired in a short tunic, reaching
to the knees, with long tight sleeves ; indeed, the whole of the
dress seems so close, that not a fold appears. His lower ex-
tremities are covered by trowsers, meeting at the ankles a high
shoe, at the top of which they seem to be tied ; and yet there is
something in their form and smoothness that gives one the idea
of jack-boots. On his head is a round-topped cap, projecting at
the top a little over the brow. This style of coiffure differs
entirely from the fluted cap or tiara, and resembles what we
call the Phrygian bonnet. I should be led to suppose, from
its simplicity, and the corresponding plainness of the habit
606 ANCIENT BAS-RELIEFS AT THE
almost invariably worn with it, that the entire dress presented
by the figure who wears it, is the genuine Persian habit; I mean
the dress of the people of Persia Proper, not of the empire in
general. The robe and tiara described above, are evidently the
Median fashions. The strap which binds the body of this
ancient Persian is very distinctly marked. He wears a second, to
which depends, on the right side, a dagger of a quite different
shape from that of the robed courtier. This is very broad in the
blade, and the point of its sheath seems fastened to the right
thigh, near the knee, by a thong. Though not much larger than
the common dagger of the time, used by other nations, still I look
upon this stout little weapon to have been the actual Persian
sword of that early age; which all the ancient accounts describe as
“extremely short, and worn on the right side.” Some of these
figures carry the cased bow, some are decorated with ear-rings,
collars, and bracelets, and others have a long cloak hanging
from their shoulders, and attached by strings to the breast.
All carry the lotos. Twenty-eight robed Persians, armed with
spears, and every one in the same attitude, close this line. These
do not wear the fluted cap, but have each a fillet round his head,
on which are the traces of leaves. Ten or a dozen sculptured
cypress-trees, complete this bas-relief, and terminate near the
stairs. The height occupied by the line of figures is only two
feet ten inches. - $º -
The third and lowest bas-relief presents the same procession
of robed and tiara-capped Persians, alternately arranged with
their tunicked brethren, to the number of thirty-two; and, in
like manner as above, followed by a train of twenty-one guards,
in the same uniform as those in the upper bas-relief. Time,
assisted by the destroying mallets to which I have referred
PALACE OF FORTY PILLARS. 607
before, has cruelly defaced the middle series, after having entirely
demolished the best part of the row above; but this lowest
range, happily for the antiquarian, has till very lately been
concealed, probably for ages, under heaps of ruins at its base.
In Le Bruyn's time, the heads only of the figures were visible;
but some of the gentlemen belonging to one of our late embassies
in Persia, set men to work, and were successful in bringing this
more perfect specimen to the eye of observation.
* I made a drawing of nine of the figures that are in the second
row, and another of seven, which belong to the lowest; they are
both engraved on the same plate, where each particular that I
have mentioned may be seen in the copy. I now proceed to
describe the opposite wing of this magnificent approach, and
shall defer any remarks on the subjects of its decorations until
I have gone through the details of the whole.
This wing, like the other, is divided into three lines of bas-
relief, but each is subdivided into compartments, by a large
cypress-tree. Vast fragments of this also lie on the ground
beneath; the higher range of figures, like those opposite,
presenting no more than twelve inches of their original surface,
but enough is left to shew, at the commencement of the pro-
cession, the lower parts of men and horses. The number of
groups which occupy the spaces in this range between the
cypresses, are six. The figures are exceedingly broken, but
still I could discern that every man carried something in his
hand like an offering, and that almost all the parties had a horse
in their train. From most eastern historians we learn, that
animal was as valuable a present to the monarchs of Persia in
those days, as it is considered at present. A continuation of
these remnants, becoming more explicable, but not increasing in
608 ANCIENT BAS-RELIEFS AT THE
height, completes the line along the slope of the stairs, forming
its parapet till it meets the ground, and the figures appear to
be as follows. The feet of several men are traceable, and the last
leads a bull; then intervenes a tree; five more men follow, the
fifth leading another bull ; then comes the cypress; again five
men appear, one bearing a round shield, the remainder carrying
spears; then come a couple more ; after whom are two bulls
drawing a kind of chariot, covered with lozenge ornaments;
the suite is closed by a figure leading an animal resembling
the Ibex. -
The row on the second line (Plates XXXVIII. XXXIX. XL.)
begins with a robed Persian armed with a dagger at his belt.
In his right hand he carries a staff, apparently the ensign of his
office, whilst his left holds the hand of a person behind him, whom
he appears to be leading forward. This person precedes four
others, as being their chief; three of them bear on both their
hands different articles of dress; the fourth, in a similar way,
carries a couple of large cups. The style of carrying any thing,
as well as presenting it, to a superior, appears to have been the
same then as it is now ; the most trifling offering being always
given with both hands. The whole of this group of five behind
the robed Persian, are uniformly habited in short tunics, bound
round the waist with a simple buckle and belt. Their legs and
feet are covered with a sort of hose, of the jack-boot appearance
I mentioned before; and, as a long pair of stockings are amongst
the raiment borne, we may conclude that this under-garment is
of that character. The upper parts of the figures are too much
defaced to shew any thing of a head-dress. A tree divides these
from the second group. ... In this, the leading personage is
habited in the old Persian tunic, with the same simple belt as
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PALACE OF FORTY PILLARS. 609
belongs to the dress in the opposite wing, and without a dagger.
He bears a staff, though not so long a one as the robed
personage of the same apparent office in the preceding group;
he has a collar also, to mark his consequence. With his left
hand he leads forward the first figure in a group of six. This
suite are habited in a sort of wrapping surtout, the arms naked
from the hand to the elbow, where they meet a short sleeve;
a kind of cape with a tasseled end hangs over the shoulder, down
on the breast. A helmet-like cap covers the head, from which
depends a bag, very similar to what is worn in some parts of
Kourdistan at the present day: shoes are on the feet. The
little that is left unbroken away of the hair, appears in the bushy
style of the Medes. Two of these men carry basins, and a
third, something like a piece of stuff; the fourth, holds a staff in
his right hand, and the end of a halter in his left, by which he
leads a large bull; the fifth, walks by the side of the animal,
with his left arm over the back, carefully guiding it; he also
holds a staff, The bull is admirably sculptured, and the usual
heavy sullen step of the animal is shewn to perfection. In this,
the artist has displayed the earthly creature, having copied his
original of the pasture with the most masterly fidelity; while
the colossal bulls, at the portals, present a contrast which fully
shews his design in each. A glance at them conveys to the
mind an image of the same animal, but of some supernatural
order; making the like distinction between them and the natural
bull, as the Greeks accomplished, when the gigantic Hercules
was hewn from the quarry, giving more than mortal dignity to
the common proportions of man. The same beau idéal is
displayed in the forms of the lions; and this very distinction, so
happily shewn on the same platform, may be another argument for
WOL. I. 4 I -
610 ANCIENT BAS-RELIEFS IN THE
supposing a symbolical meaning is couched under all the animals
exhibiting such supernatural elevation of character. The third
group in rotation, is preceded by a robed Persian, leading by the
left hand the first man of six in suite; the heads of the whole
are totally demolished, but in other respects they are not much
damaged. A tight gabardine sort of dress, with short sleeves,
reaches below the calves of the legs; on their feet are short
boots, neatly tied upon the instep. Their waists are bound with
sashes, with fringed ends tastefully disposed on the left side.
The second man carries a couple of basins; he is followed by
one bearing in each hand two regular-shaped forms, evidently the
skins of some small animal; the third holds a piece of stuff.
Two others come forward, attending a couple of sheep with very
huge horns, and fine curled coats; which corroborates the idea
of the foregoing skins being probably the beautiful fleeces of the
young lambs. Such fleeces, from a peculiar breed, are still in
great request in these countries; particularly the grey curled
lamb of Bochara, which, both in Persia and Russia, bring the
greatest prices. - . - * ,
The introducer, in the fourth group, is one of the tunic-dressed
Persians. The person he leads by the hand, seems in all things
habited like himself, if we except his staff and collar of office;
and the appearance of a cap falling low in the pole of the neck
of the led personage. The cap has a peculiarity of curving
backwards at its high top, instead of forwards, as we have
usually seen on figures wearing the short tunic. On the left
side of this man, hangs a cased bow, the only one in the group.
The next person, dressed in the same way in all respects
excepting the bow, appears walking by the side of a horse,
which he holdsby its bridle; the mane and tail are nicely tied
i § - . 'ſ
PALACE OF FORTY PILLARs. . 611
up, and the peculiarity of its form, no doubt marks the par-
ticularity of its breed. The succeeding four figures carry
articles, apparently of horse-furniture; one of them holding a
sort of saddle-cloth and stirrup attached. The usual intervening
cypress separates this last group from the fifth, and here we
find a robed conductor, (indeed, throughout these bas-reliefs,
this duty seems to be alternately exercised by the Median-robed
Persian, and the Persian in the genuine habit of his country,)
leading a person in a different costume from any of the former,
The hair, as we may judge by his followers in the same general
raiment, is bound by a fillet, and projects a little behind in small
neat curls: the beard is very short. Both arms and legs are
naked, the feet being defended by a sandal. A short tunic
comes to the knee, and is open at the side, being bound at the
waist by a very broad belt. A tight mantle, through which
passes the arms, hangs almost like a modern European coat, to
near the calf of the leg. A tasseled end falls between the arm and
the vest. Two persons in this garb conduct a bull, not at all
inferior in spirit and beauty to the former ; and he, likewise, is
meant for a beast of earthly pastures. He is followed by three
spearmen, dressed precisely like their three preceding unarmed
compeers; but the foremost of these warriors carries a spear
in his right hand, and a large round shield on his left arm,
covering his person from the chin almost to the knee. His two
followers have no shield, but each carries a spear in either hand.
The cypress concludes the group. Along this line may be seen
the extent of the native artist's skill in pourtraying the un-
covered parts of the human figure; and I have copied his
delineation with all the accuracy in my power, to shew the
correctness of his chisel, even to the most difficult parts of the
4 I 2
612 ANCIENT BAS-RELIEFS IN THE
extremities. The fine management of these naked limbs, the
truth of the muscles, and the spirit of their action, might lead
one to think, that the same hand that executed them, did not
touch the stiff, wooden-like legs belonging to some of the figures
more completely covered ; and, probably, this was really the case;
the master-chisel only applying itself to the general sketch and
perfecting finish of the most scientific parts of the art. The
sixth group is led forward by one of the old tunicked Persians,
with his staff and collar of consequence. The front of his cap
has been a little knocked off, else his head might be called in
excellent preservation; the face is perfect, and shews a fine
physiognomy. The man in his charge has not been so for-
tunate; the whole of his face is gone, having left only the beard;
which is much larger than any I had seen in the other bas-
reliefs, excepting those which represent royalty; but the hair in
this beard is perfectly straight, and cut square at the end. The
hair of the head behind, appears to be turned up smooth over a
roll, surmounted by a kind of skull-cap helmet, bending forward
in the Phrygian point over the forehead; two flaps proceed from
the helmet, guarding the ears. The dress of this man, and his
five followers, is exactly alike; and all sharing the same progress,
more or less, towards decapitation. Their upper garments are
tight, with sleeves to the wrist, and flying off slopingly behind
the thighs, in a point still more like a modern coat than the
one I mentioned before. . A large buckle and strap confine the
waist; but what makes this garment look most like a European
dress, are two or three lines from the shoulder down the front of
the breast, which have the appearance of lapels or facings. The
first, who is lead forward by the conductor, wears a cased bow at
his side. The four who follow him have a similar appendage 3
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PALACE OF FORTY PILLARS. 613
but the first of them carries in addition, a dagger, or short sword,
held up by both hands, with the sheath and fastenings to the
belt attached to it. Hence, I should suppose, from that being
the only weapon of the kind which we see on these sculptures,
that its steel original answered indiscriminately to the name of
sword or dagger, according to the ideas of the ancient writers
who described it; for, perhaps, it is as much too large for the
common fashion of the one, as it is too small, for the usual size
of the other. The next figure carries a couple of immense
bracelets, or fetters, like those in a preceding bas-relief; and the
two succeeding men are armed with war-hammers, holding one
in each hand. The last person in the group wears the same
dress as the others, with the exception of the belt and cased
bow; his occupation is to lead a very fine horse, of a totally
different description from the former. The tree terminates this
line of sculpture, by the side of an inscription. (Plate XLIV.)
We now commence the lower range, (Plates XLI. XLII. XLIII.)
which is clear all the way to the very feet of the figures; at which
point I am inclined to think the ornamented part of the stairs
finished; leaving only a few feet of plain surface below, now
hidden by the mouldered ruins, before we come to the original
level of the top of the first terrace. 4 * -
The conductor of the first group in the lower row, is one of
the robed Persians, with his short sword, and Median fluted
cap. He is the only one whose staff of office has retained its
rounded top. The three figures which immediately follow him,
wear high pointed tiaras, seemingly formed of rolled linen, and
shaped like the descriptions we have of the priests’ mitres.
Neither their hair nor beards differ in any way from the common
fashion of the time, excepting that behind the ear hangs a long
614 ANCIENT BAS-RELIEFS IN THE
single braid, terminated by two large beads. Their under-gar-
ments reach nearly to the ankle. Over them is a shorter vest;
and a mantle with a deep cape, which falls loosely down the
back, and over the naked arms; tassels are at each corner.
Sock-like boots are on their feet. After the chief of the party,
who is led as usual, follow the two other mitred persons, carry-
ing bowls in each hand. Then comes a third figure, in the same
dress as the foregoing, but without a cap of any kind; he bears
a couple of immense bracelets in his hands, whose circular form
is connected by the heads of serpents. The one on the right
hand is perfect; but the other, in the left, can just be discerned
as having been. The two remaining persons of the group are
in charge of a chariot, which is drawn by a pair of magnificent
horses. One of the men, in ampler garments than his compeers,
and bare-headed, holds the bridles of the horses. His compa-
nion in the rear, dressed more like the man with the bracelets,
follows, leaning his left hand on the backs of the animals, and
holding a long wand in the other. The horses are without trap-
pings, but the details of their bits, and the manner of reining
them, are executed with the nicest care. The pole of the car
is seen passing between the horses, projecting from the centre
of the carriage, which is in a cylindrical shape, elevated rather
above the line of the animals' heads. The wheel of the car is
extremely light, and tastefully put together. In fact, the whole
of this chariot-group is pourtrayed, and finished, with a beauty
and accuracy that alike excite our wonder and admiration.
The second party consists of five persons, exclusive of the
tunicked Persian, who is their master of the ceremonies. The
heads of these men are covered with a very extraordinary kind
of bonnet, pointed and inclining forward, and appearing some-
PALACE OF FORTY PILLARS, 615
thing cloven at the top, where an interior cap shows through
the cleft. Two large corners from each side of the bonnet are
drawn back and fastened up behind; evidently to be let down
at pleasure, and drawn forward for the protection of the ears
and chin, like the bashlicks of the mountaineers, who use them
as a defence from the wind and snow. The peasantry of the
plains too, frequently case their heads in the same protection.
In all other respects, the dress of the men in this group, re-
sembles that of their conductor; only, he wears the low common
Persian cap, with his collar and staff of office; and in addition to
their simple tunic, they have a short scanty mantle, fastened on
the left breast with a clasp or buckle in the form of a bow. Tassels
ornament the corners of the mantle. The second figure which
follows the leader of the group, is attendant on an almost gigan-
tic horse, whose ardour he seems to check, by the tightness with
which he holds the bridle. Round the animal's neck are a collar
and a bell; his mane is hogged, though enough has been left on
the forehead to form a tuft, which is tied like a brush; ap-
parently a favourite ornament with these people from a very
early time. The three following figures bear articles of dress;
the last is almost obliterated. -
The approaching line of persons which compose the third
group, consists of eight, all bare-headed, and in one attire; the
same precisely with the unbonneted men who precede the
chariot, excepting that the texture of the under-garments of
these is carved in waving stripes; with the others it is plain.
Three of these persons carry variously formed bowls; two others
follów, holding some folded substance in their hands, not unlike
the bread of the country; two more close the party, each
sº * : * *A*
616 ANCIENT BAS-RELIEFS IN THE
charged with a couple of globular forms, probably melons. The
conductor of these is a robed figure. - - -
In the fourth group we return to a succession of five persons,
who are led by a tunicked Persian. They are clothed in tight
vestures of the same kind, with long sleeves like his ; but their
waists are bound by a cord, knotted in front. They wear very
full and loose trowsers, hanging in wavy masses over the tops of
their boots, which reach to the calf of the leg, and are a little
turned up at the toe. Their heads have neitheir cap nor bonnet,
but are tied with a fillet. The hair and beard are quite smooth
and uncurled; and these, and the group which follows, are the
only people with that sort of ring in their ears. Three of
these persons carry bowls; the fourth supports himself by a long
staff, and leads by the bridle, with his left hand, a dromedary,
whose neck is decorated with a collar and bell. In comparing the
general character of this animal, particularly those I have seen since
my arrival in Persia, with its delineation here on stone, I found it
a most faithful copy; the head is finely marked, and the bunches
of hair behind his ear, and below his throat, with the large
round protuberances above his knees, are accurately placed ;
the muscles of the limbs are so well cut, as to give an appear-
ance of almost actual movement to the animal. The drome-
daries most in use amongst the northern tribes of the empire,
are commonly natives of the country about Bakou ; and are
valued, for size and strength, far above the camel. Some, to
improve the qualities of the latter, cross the breed with a
dromedary. . . . . . . - . * *
The fifth and last group of the procession is conducted by
the robed introducer, who leads forward the chief of the party,
a dignified looking person, enveloped in a large folded cloak,
PALACE OF FORTY PILLARS. 617
which is thrown carelessly over the left shoulder, and reaches
nearly down to his sandalled feet. His hair is uncurled, and
bound with a fillet. The rest of the party are almost naked,
their only covering being a small piece of garment resembling a
short petticoat, which is confined on the hip by a thick roll of
some sort of stuff or linen. The first of them bears on his
shoulders a pair of large scales, which contain four small bottles.
The next man brings four more bottles, set in two basins. He
is followed by one who guides an animal, which I immediately
recognised to be the gour or wild ass, from its perfect re-
semblance to the fine creature of the sort I had pursued in my
way hither. Another attendant stands behind it, while the last
person in the group brings up the rear with a pair of implements
like mallets in his hands. Here end all the remains of the bas-
reliefs on this division of the edifice, by which we may collect
any idea of what might have been the subject of the whole re-
presentation. Having noticed, some pages back, a considerable
resemblance between certain objects in these successive groups,
and the first grand procession of the great founder of the empire,
I shall offer an abstract of Xenophon's account of the solemnity,
before I proceed to my own remarks on the subject.
“But now,” says the historian, “we will relate how Cyrus
first marched in grand procession out of the palace; for the
majesty of this procession seems to have been one of the means
by which he held his government in such high consideration.
First, therefore, he arrayed himself, and his commanders, and
other chosen officers, in the splendid robes of the Medes, that
they might all appear beautiful and noble. There stood first
before the gates, four thousand guards, drawn up four in front,
with lances in their hands; two thousand on each side of the
VOL. I. 4 K
618 HISTORY IN ILLUSTRATION
gates. The Persians stood on the right hand, and the other
allies on the left of the way. When the gates of the palace
were thrown open, first came forth certain bulls, very goodly
beasts, four abreast, devoted to paternal Jove, and to such other of
the gods as the Magi directed. Next to the bulls, horses were
led, for a sacrifice to the sun. After these proceeded a white
chariot, very costly, with its seat of gold adorned with a crown,
and sacred to Jove. Then came another white chariot, sacred
to the sun, and decorated in the same manner. After that, a
third chariot, with horses in scarlet housings; and behind it,
followed men bearing fire upon a large altar. After these,
Cyrus himself appeared, clad in his royal robes and diadem.
When the chariot of Cyrus advanced, the four thousand guards
led on before, and two thousand attended on each side ; the
chief officers of his person, gallantly mounted, and finely
clothed, with javelins in their hands, to the number of three
hundred, followed after. Then were led the noble horses
maintained for Cyrus himself, with their bridles of gold, and
caparisoned in housings wrought with raised stripes; and
these horses were two hundred. After them marched two
thousand spearmen. Then came the first formed body of
Persian horse, to the number of ten thousand, marshalled a
hundred deep, under Chrysantes. After these, marched a
second ten thousand, under Hystaspes. They were followed by
the like number, in the leading of Datarnas. Then came the
Median, the Armenian, the Hyrcanian, the Caducian, and the
Sacian horse. And after these troops, went the chariots, ranged
four abreast, under the command of the Persian Artabates.
Upon this occasion Cyrus established equestrian and other
games amongst his chiefs and followers; and to the victors he
OF THE BAS-RELIEFS, 619
gave oxen, and cups, that they might sacrifice, and feast. The
method of this procession, then settled by Cyrus, continues to
this day; excepting only, that the victims make no part in it
when the king does not sacrifice. Every nation thought they
did themselves an injury if they did not send Cyrus the most
valuable productions of their country, whether they were the
fruits of the earth, or creatures bred there, or manufactures of
their own: and every city did the same.” (Cyrop. b. viii.) We
are told, that Cyrus received such presents in the way of tribute
from the nations at large; but from the Persians alone he took
them as free gifts. In the preceding quotation, we may trace
some affinity between its solemn procession, and bringing of
presents, with the series of subjects just described in the bas-
reliefs on the palace-walls. I do not mean to say that they were
intended as a commemoration of this, or perhaps any other of
Cyrus's personal solemnities of the kind, but my reference
shews the antiquity of the custom and its details. He was much
less likely than his successors, to erect that sort of monument to
the honour of his conquests and institutions; and nothing is
more probable than that these magnificent registers of a great
empire, were chiselled from the rock, by the command of his not
unworthy successor, Darius Hystaspes. He mounted the throne
of Persia hardly ten years after the death of Cyrus. Ctesias
asserts, that the tomb which Darius ordered to be made for
himself, was excavated in the mountain near Persepolis; but
whether he chose his last rest to be there, or in the sacred caves
at Nakshi-Roustam, does not affect the probability of his having
devoted some part of his long reign, and the labours of his
numerous artists and artisans, to the embellishment of this
ancient metropolis. Cambyses, the son of Cyrus, had begun
4 K 2
620 HISTORY IN ILLUSTRATION
many public works, both here and at Susa, employing the captives
he had brought from Egypt, in the decoration of his two favourite
cities. The usurper Smerdis, who followed the short reign of
Cambyses, had hardly time to seat himself on the throne, ere
he was dispossessed and slain, by the son of Hystaspes, the friend
and kinsman of Cyrus. Drawing his claim to the sceptre, or
rather confirming his hold of it, by that affinity; what is more
likely than that the avowed restorer of the ancient royal line,
should thus embellish the native palace of his great predecessor,
by commemorating on marble the very institutions which he
had made the principles of his own government. The length
of his reign allowed him ample time for the prosecution
of the most elaborate works, and the extent of his resources
afforded him liberal means of carrying the most magnificent
plans into execution. From all that is related of him, he
appears to have united two characters hardly to have been found
in the breast of one man, in those days of romantic heroism, or
churlish barbarity, —the hero and the man of business; and the
sketch of his government, as given by Herodotus, evinces what
would be called well-ordered policy, even in our all-accomplished
times. When Darius Hystaspes assumed the regal seat, in the
capital of his ancestors, (where his father had resided as governor
during the reign of Cyrus, and probably of his son,) he came
into possession, not merely of all the countries which Cyrus had
conquered, but of those also which the younger Cambyses had
added to the empire. Xenophon tells us, that Cyrus divided
his dominions into one hundred and twenty provinces, placing a
governor over each ; and we find from Daniel, (chap. vi. 2.) that
over these, three leading counsellors were placed, of which he
was one. But all this was disturbed by the tempestuous reigns
OF THE BAS-RELIEFS. 621
of Cambyses, and the usurper; and Darius, on his accession,
lost no time in regulating his kingdom, after the confusion which
had been introduced by the madness of the one, and the treason
of the other. The first step that he took towards this end,
seems to have been the division of his empire into twenty
satrapies, to fix the amount of the tribute from each, to place.
governors over them, and to exact a regular annual payment
through their hands, of the sum in gold, besides some remem-
brance of the former gratuitous offerings. This determined
style of revenue, Herodotus notices as an innovation; observing,
that during the reigns of Cyrus, and his son Cambyses, there
were no specific tributes, presents of value being made instead.
I cannot suppose that we are to understand from this, that the
conquered countries would at any time be indulged with 'so
slight a yoke, as to lay only what they pleased at the feet of their .
conqueror; and, therefore, I would presume that Herodotus
means to say, that Cyrus taxed neither Media nor Persia; which
kingdoms he derived by inheritance, and, uniting into one
empire under one name, he treated both with equal paternal
indulgence; extending to the Medes the ancient and apparently
unalienable right of his patrimonial Persia. Our venerable
historian gives us reason to think that such might have been the
claim of Persia Proper, since he mentions that even Darius
Hystaspes exempted that portion of his empire from paying a
fixed tribute, accepting presents instead; but we do not hear of
the same privilege being extended to the Medes; and that may
be the innovation meant by Herodotus. That voluntary offerings,
at stated seasons, to the sovereign, have always been considered
as the most ancient practice in Persia Proper, appears evident,
from what the native authors write of Jemsheed, to whom they
622 HISTORY IN ILLUSTRATION
attribute the foundation of Persepolis. Their accounts transport
him back to within the seventh descent from Noah; and they
relate, that after having divided his people into classes, intro-
duced agriculture, built cities, founded colleges of astronomy,
and reformed the calendar, he instituted the feast of Nowroose
at the commencement of the year, and then received the grateful
oblations of his people. The same historians inform us, that
Jemsheed reigned seven hundred years; from which extravagant
calculation, Sir William Malcolm most satisfactorily concludes,
that this king's name is not to be regarded as that of an indi-
vidual; but rather to be received as the title of one particular
dynasty, which was displaced for a time, when the Assyrian
empire, designated by these poetical writers under the dragon
name of Zohawk, subjected Persia to its yoke. Zohawk, who, in
these legends has even more centuries allotted to his existence
than were bestowed on his more virtuous rival, is supposed,
from his fiery and impious character, to have been the Nimrod
of Scripture, the real founder of the Assyrian empire. Hence
we may conclude, that as many generations of the sons of Cush
were comprised in the person of Zohawk, so the acts of many
Persian princes are attributed to Jemsheed; the etymology of
whose name might lead us to find Scripture authority, for his
having been the founder of the Persian monarchy. In Genesis,
chap. x. v. 22, we read that Shem was the father of Elam, who
spread his posterity and name over all this quarter of the East;
and Shem and Jemsheed bearing such affinity in name, as well
as the latter being traced by the native genealogists to Noah ;
surely we might be warranted in believing, that some prince of
that descent was indeed the founder of the Persian monarchy;
and that his descendants reigned there, till the posterity of Cush,
OF THE BAS-RELIEFS. - 623
princes of Nineveh and Babylon, under the derivative appellation
of Zohawk, made conquest of the land, and maintained possession
of it for several centuries. Regular history informs us of the
revolt of the Medes and Babylonians from the Assyrians of
Nineveh, about seven hundred and fifty years before the
Christian era; at which time Persia also recovered its liberty,
and the restoration of its princes. Hence, if we may assume
with Sir William Malcolm, that the name of Jemsheed was the
title of a race; and, as Sacred Writ plants the immediate offspring
of Shem, or Jem, in this very tract, it seems not unreasonable to
think, that the city we call Persepolis, may, from the earliest
ages, have borne a similar appellation to that which we find it
now holds in Persia, namely, Tackt-i-Jemsheed, the throne of
Jemsheed; and this consideration alone seems a fair argument
for the great antiquity of the capital, and the venerable date of
its usages. In carefully comparing the native Persian accounts,
mutilated and confused as they are, with the notices of their
country contained in the Greek and Jewish writers, the descent
of Cambyses king of Persia, the father of Cyrus, can be
sufficiently traced to the line assumed to be that of Jemsheed;
and we may suppose that a capital so ancient, as to be called his
throne, must have derived great extent and consequence under
so many successive monarchs. Though if we are to judge of their
taste in architecture, from the garb and manners of their people
at the time Cambyses espoused the daughter of Astyages, the
whole must have worn the simplest appearance; and we may
conclude that this marriage with a princess from the compara-
tively refined court of Media, was the first introduction here, of
those splendours in architecture which mark a rich and polished
nation. Xenophon mentions, that the royal parents of Cyrus
624 HISTORY IN ILLUSTRATION
lived to an extreme old age. They, of course, would inhabit
Tackt-i-Jemsheed, while their renowned son, as the Prince-
general of his uncle Cyaxares, was winning for Media all the
then known Asiatic world; and, probably, Cambyses might
have a pride in causing some of the sculptures I shall presently
describe, to be executed on the walls of his capital, to com-
memorate the triumphs of a native prince, in whose person, by a
double inheritance, the two kingdoms of Media and Persia were
hereafter to be united in one. Egyptian captive artists, obtained
first by alliance with the Babylonians, and secondly by Cyrus's
conquest over them, would afford to his father, and to himself,
when he became sole monarch, architects and ImaSOnS to pursue
the most magnificent designs. But whatever works of the kind
might have been commenced by Cambyses, or accomplished in
after-years by his grandson of the same name, Cyrus himself ap-
pears to have confined most of his architectural improvements to
the building of Pasargadae; and the erection of spacious resting-
places along the roads, for the refreshment of travellers, and the
convenience of the posts continually passing to and fro through-
out his extensive dominions. (Cyrop. b. viii.) Hence we come
to the conclusion, that the fine finishing of some of the superb
works we find at Persepolis, and the planning and accomplish-
ment of most of the others, must have been done by the direction
of Darius Hystaspes; who, emulating to tread in the steps. of
Cyrus, felt establishing his claim of birthright, and consequent
hold on the empire, by every stroke of the chisel that perpetuated
the happy institutions of a predecessor, who alone had acquired
the great name of Father of his People. Besides, Darius, like
Cyrus, was of Persia Proper, and could not but find a son's
gratification in aggrandizing his native capital. His spirit
OF THE BAS-RELIEFS. - 625
appears to have equalled the magnificence of his fortunes; and
from the number of Grecian prisoners who fell into his power
previous to the battle of Marathon, there could be no want of
hands to complete his designs in the highest taste of the arts.
We may collect good argument for this supposition, in the
style of the works themselves. Though, at first sight, I ac-
knowledge a general similitude to the Egyptian contour strikes
the mind, yet the impression gradually wears away when the
details are examined; the finishing of the parts, and the grace
and truth of the bas-reliefs, every where proclaiming the refined
taste and master-chisels of Greece. When comparing the
colossal proportions of the structure, and its gigantic sculptures,
with the delicacy, beauty, and perfection of the execution of its
ornaments, I might say, with the poet, “Here the Loves play on
the bosom of Hercules.” -
That the design of the artist who composed the bas-reliefs lately
described, is not to display a religious procession, seems clear,
from the nature of most of the articles borne by the different
groups of the train ; and as Darius adopted the style of Cyrus,
in receiving presents from his own countrymen, instead of tri-
bute, I am not diffident in assigning the sculptures in question
entirely to Darius; supposing them to represent the feast at the
vernal equinox, when the Persians would present their gratuities,
and the governors of provinces, with their delegates, would bring
in the annually collected tax from each, with a due proportion
of offerings besides. This ideais supported by Mons. Heeren,
when writing on the same subject, in his work on the “Policy,
&c. of the Nations of Antiquity.” Indeed, I have already re-
marked, that such a procession, at such a time of year, and to
a similar purpose, was celebrated here so early as the times of
VOL. I. 4 L
626 HISTORY IN ILLUSTRATION
Jemsheed, under the name of the Nowroose; and the deep an-
tiquity of the like annual assembling of the chiefs under a
sovereign power, may be found intimated in the Book of Job,
(chaps. i. and ii. ver, 6. 2.) The practice of princes and nobles
appearing before the king with presents, and the homage of
loyal dependence, is still the great business of the Nowroose in
Persia. * -
But to proceed with the bas-reliefs themselves. We learn
from Xenophon, how the usual attendants on the Persian so-
vereigns were disposed ; and we find that a certain number of
the chosen guard were always stationed at the different doors of
the palace. The seven figures, grasping spears, and standing as
in front of the outer flight of steps, probably represent these
favourite sentinels; their appearance being military, and their
situation perfectly unconnected with the train of groups drawn
along the line of the left wing of the staircase. All the groups
face that part of the stairs which leads on to the terrace; and,
therefore, we must consider this approach as pointing imme-
diately to the presence of the Great King. The procession of
personages on the left wing, appear to be nobles and high offi-
cers of the empire, whom the sovereign had distinguished with
different degrees of honour; those in the Median robe and fluted
tiara, were probably of the highest order, that which Cyrus deno-
minated the like-honoured; while collars, bracelets, &c. were dis-
pensed to those whose situations might claim less conspicuous
distinctions. Not one amongst this succession of persons carries
the short staff, the badge of royal ushers, as we see it held in
the hands of their compeers in the opposite wing. Hence,
I should consider these to be nobles and great officers of the
empire, present at court, but independent of assisting in its
OF THE BAS-RELIEFS. 627
ceremonies; and that the connecting action of laying hold of
hands on one side, and touching the shoulder or garment on
the other, is to shew that chain of brotherhood which, subsisting
amongst the alike-honoured, might extend to the next in de-
gree at court; something in the style of the grand-commanders
and knights-companions in our more modern orders of chi-
valry. In this train, the tunicked and the robed have all
the cased bow, or the dagger at the belt; which appears to have
been as indispensable to the dress of ceremony in those days, as
the sword is in our own times, both in Persia and in every court
of Europe: a general usage, which, by-the-bye, very plainly
shews the original purport of such assemblings. In the bas-
relief upon the tomb of Nakshi-Roustam, we see that even at a
religious solemnity, this appearance of arms was not excluded;
for the principal personage, who stands before the altar of fire,
leans on a bow which he holds in his hand. That this weapon
has been the especial boast and defence of the Persians, from
the earliest ages, we have both sacred and profane writ to testify;
Greek and Roman historians speak largely to this point; and
Isaiah and Jeremiah, in the records of Israel, write of the “bow
and quiver of Elam.” - -- -
Almost every one in this procession holds in his hand a figure
like the lotos. This flower was full of meaning to the ancients,
and occurs all over the East. Egypt, Palestine, Persia, and India,
present it everywhere over their architecture, in the hands and on
the heads of their sculptured figures, whether in statue or in bas-
relief. We also find it in the sacred vestments and architecture of
the tabernacle, and temple of the Israelites; and see it mentioned
by our Saviour, as an image of peculiar beauty and glory, when
comparing the works of nature with the decorations of art. It is
4 L 2
628 REMARKS IN ILLUSTRATION
also represented in all pictures of the salutation of Gabriel to the
Virgin Mary; and, in fact, has been held in mysterious vener-
ation by people of all nations and times. The old heraldic
work of “The Theatre of Honour,” published in France about -
two hundred years ago, gives this curious account of the lotos
or lily: —“It is the symbol of divinity, of purity, and abund-
ance, and of a love most complete in perfection, charity, and
benediction; as in Holy Scripture, that mirror of chastity, Su-
sanna, is defined Susa, which signifieth the lily flower; the chief
city of the Persians bearing that name for excellency. Hence
the lily’s three leaves in the arms of France, meaneth Piety,
Justice, and Charity.” So far the general impression of a pecu-
liar regard to this beautiful and fragrant flower; but the early
Persians attached a particular sanctity to it. - &
Water, according to their belief, was held in the next degree of
reverence to fire; and the white flower which sprung from the
bosom of the colder element, was considered an emblem of its
purity, submissiveness, and, above all, of its fecundity, when meet-
ing the rays of the great solar flame. These symbols, united in
the lily their joint properties had produced, represented to the
poetical conceptions of the East, first, the creative and regener-
ating attributes of the Supreme Being himself; and, secondly,
the imparted powers of the great elements of earth, air, water,
and fire, to act mutually on each other, so that, at the return of
certain seasons, moisture should spread over the land, from the
clouds or the rivers, the air should dry the ground, the sun's
beams fructify it, and the grateful earth, at the call of all united in
the genial breath of spring, put forth her increase. Hence, as the
sovereigns of the East have always been revered, according to a
tradition of their being the express vicegerents of the Deity, it is
of THE BAS-RELIEFs. 629
not surprising to see the same emblematic flower carried in a pro-
cession to their honour, which would be found “breathing sweet
incense,” amongst the symbols of an entirely religious festival.
The very mutilated range of figures above these lotos-bearing
nobles, and on the upper line of the stair-case, I have described
in a former page, are preceded by a file of military; and being
in part composed of horses, chariots, bulls, and other objects
likely to be selected as fit oblations at the vernal feast, I have
no doubt that a continuation of a similar train went along the
exterior inclining wall of the steps, in the manner of the cor-
responding bas-reliefs still existing down those to the west. It
would be a vain task to attempt assigning to the particular par-
ties, divided by the marble avenue of cypress-trees, each its sepa-
rate country, according to its different costume. The account
Herodotus has left, of the national dresses of the various people
who accompanied the great expedition of Xerxes, is so purely
military, that little resemblance can be expected between their
garb of war, and that of peace. Particular details of the dress
of the Medes and Persians, under both circumstances, he, as
well as Xenophon, has given us; but with regard to the home
garments of any other of the satrapies, we have only a few
scattered remarks. However, sufficient variety presents itself in
the respective groups, to make it evident that they came from
parts of the empire as distinct in climate, as different in the
fashion of their garb ; some being so lightly clothed as merely
to wear what decency demands; and others covered up from
the sock to the chin. Yet none of them shew any of the heavy
furs, which might designate the most northern tributaries; nor
could it be expected that nations from those remote regions,
would bring shelters from the cold, to a climate of the south,
630 REMARKS IN ILLUSTRATION
and particularly at the season of the year when every thing puts
on its summer-garb. The gold and silver arising from the sti-
pulated tribute, would, probably, be paid into the treasury of the
king; and the gratuitous offering alone, brought into the royal
presence at the festival. Hence, we find the most valuable ani-
mals the tributary countries could produce, the horse, the sheep,
the bull, the dromedary, and the gour, the wild inhabitant of the
desert, so precious in the eyes of a Persian prince as an object of
chase. Others present specimens of manufactures, in articles of
dress and arms; and some carry vessels of honey, perfume, and
spices. Yet it is likely that all the vases and bowls we see in
the hands of the provincials, were not appropriated to holding
these lighter kinds of oblations, but were of themselves ad-
ditional gifts of the most weighty materials, masses of gold or
silver in those portable forms. Herodotus mentions its having
been a custom in the East, to melt the pure metal, and pouring it
into earthern vessels, when the liquid gold or silver cooled and
became solid, the mold was broke, and the metal came out in
the shape it had received. (Herod. lib. iii. c. 96.) Counting the
number of groups which fill the space between every two
cypresses, I found eighteen on this face of the wall, and two at
the commencement of the slope on the steps, which makes up
exactly the twenty governments into which Darius divided his
empire; a coincidence we may regard an additional corrobor-
ation of the idea, that these bas-reliefs represent the delegated
tributaries of that partition. . -
Two of the cuneiform, or arrow-headed inscriptions on this
part of the platform, have been so far translated by Professor
Grottefund, as to shew that Darius is the subject of both. One
OF THE BAS-RELIEFS. 631
is to be found on the surface of the wall at the entrance,
(Plate XLVI.) and it runs thus:
“Darius the brave king, the king of kings, the king of nations,
the son of Hystaspes, the descendant of the sovereign of the
world, in the constellation of Möro.”
In the second it runs thus:
“Darius the lord, the brave king, the king of kings, the
king of all zealous (orthodox) nations, the son of Hystaspes,
the descendant of the sovereign of the world, Jemsheed.”
The latter part of this inscription leads me back to my former
argument, that Shem was the patriarch Jemsheed; whose son
Elam gave his name to the country, while the more venerable
one of his father, was perpetuated in the successive dynasties of
his race, even till Yezdijird, the last king of the line, who perished
under the arms of the caliphs, in comparatively modern times.
When the Professor has completely decyphered the remaining
parts of these inscriptions, it is probable we shall then be
decidedly informed of what the whole of the sculptures connected
with them are designed to commemorate. But having read
these writings on the walls of Persepolis, we can no more doubt
of the decorations, at least in this part of the palace, having been
done under the direction of Darius Hystaspes, than, after decy-
phering the name of Cyrus on the pillars at Mourg-aub, we can
hesitate in believing that he was the founder of the city to
which they belonged. &
On ascending the platform on which the palace of Chehel-
minar once stood, nothing can be more striking than the
view of its ruins; so vast, and magnificent, so fallen, mutilated
and silent: the court of Cyrus, and the scene of his bounties;
632 CHEHEI, MINAR, OR PALACE OF FORTY PILLARS.
the pavilion of Alexander's triumph, and, alas ! the awful
memorial of the wantonness of his power. But every object,
when I saw it, was as beautiful as desolate; amidst the pleasing
memories of the past, awakening poignant regret, that such
noble works of human ingenuity should be left to the desert
alone; that the pile of indefatigable labour should be destined,
from the vicissitudes of revolution, and the caprice, ignorance,
or fanaticism of succeeding times, to be left in total neglect; or,
when noticed, doomed to the predatory mallet, and every other
attack of unreflecting destruction. * .
This immense space of upper platform stretches to the north
and south, three hundred and fifty feet; and from east to west,
three hundred and eighty; the greater part of which is covered
with broken capitals, shafts of pillars, and countless fragments
of building, some of which are richly ornamented with the most
exquisite sculpture. The distribution of the pillars, stood in
four divisions; consisting of a center-phalanx, if I may use the
figure, of six-deep every way. An advance body of twelve, in two
ranks; and the same number flanking the center. The first,
or advanced division, is to the north. It is composed of two
parallel lines, of six columns in each, falling twenty feet back
from the landing-place of the stairs, and meets the eye im-
mediately on ascending them. The columns are at equal
distances from each other, on a line pointing right and left as
we approach. One only is now standing; the shattered bases
of nine others still remain, but the places only are left of the
other two which completed the colonnade. About thirty-eight
feet from the western edge of the terrace, appears the second
double range of columns, the most northern of them being one
hundred feet from that face of the height; but on the western
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RUINS OF THE PALACE. - 633
side, they seem on the brink of a precipice; for there, this
upper terrace rises stupendously from the plain beneath, its
perpendicular on that face descending directly to the level
earth ; whereas the base of the other three sides meet the in-
tervention of the vast table surface of the great platform on
which they stand, like a smaller hill on one of larger dimensions;
but being erected close to the western edge of the immense -
foundation which supports the whole, the walls of both terrace
and platform taking there one perpendicular line, present a
grand and fearful precipice. Five of the twelve columns in
this western division, are still erect; the capitals are in tolerable
preservation, and the bases of the whole equally perfect. From
hence, to the eastern range of a similar number, is a distance of
two hundred and sixty-eight feet. Four of those are standing,
and the pedestals of four more are yet undemolished; but the
rest have been totally destroyed, or lie buried under masses of
ruin, which become hillocks at this point; spreading very far,
and indeed so deeply, as to form a regular slope to the walls of
a spacious edifice, standing farther to the east on the great
platform ; by which circumstance the face of the terrace in this
quarter is almost completely lost. . - -
The form of the columns which compose the three distinct
colonnades just described, is the same in all, and perfectly beauti-
ful. (Plate XLV.) I gazed at them with wonder and delight.
Besides the admiration which the general elegance of their form,
and the exquisite workmanship of their parts excited, I never was
made so sensible of the impression of perfect symmetry, comprising
in itself that of perfect beauty also. The total height of each
column is sixty feet; the circumference of the shaft is sixteen;
and its length, from the capital to the tor, forty-four feet. The
VOL. I. - - 4 M
634 RUINS OF THE PALACE.
shaft is finely fluted in fifty-two divisions: at its lower extremity
begin a cincture and a torus; the first two inches in depth, the
latter one foot, from whence devolves the pedestal, in the
form of the cup and leaves of a pendent lotos. It rests upon
a plinth of eight inches, and in circumference measuring
twenty-four feet six inches; the whole, from the cincture to the
plinth, comprising a height of five feet ten inches. The capitals
which remain, though much injured, are yet sufficient to shew
that they were all surmounted by the double demi-bull; and,
by what I could observe by my glass, they seemed to differ
little from the one I described at the harem of Jemsheed.
|Plate LXV. A. A. represents the base of one of the columns in
the eastern range, which varies in a small degree in its ornaments
from the others. I have drawn them large, to a scale, by which
their details are more apparent.
The heads of the bulls forming the capitals, take the direction
of the faces of the respective fronts of the terrace; and I think
there can be no doubt, that the wide hollow between their necks
received a beam, or some other detached substance, meant to
support and connect an entablature, over which has been placed
the roof; for I do not see the purpose of these three distinct
colonnades, at such equal distances from the grand center
quadrangle of pillars, unless they were covered piazzas, to ex-
clude the direct heat of the sun from the attending nobles, OT
higher rank of guards, near the person of the sovereign, when
holding his court in the palace. The distance between each
capital is not so wide as to preclude the possibility of a single
length of stone being used as a uniting medium; and as its thick-
ness could not exceed two feet six inches, the weight would not
be so great as to become an obstacle. That pillars so terminated
coLUMNS OF THE PALACE. - 635
were intended to be connected, is made evident by those on the
fronts of the tombs at Nakshi-Roustam. But as the ruins that
lie scattered near these divisions, seem, by far the greater part,
to consist of fragments of the fallen columns themselves, I
should be of opinion that the superstructure was of different
materials; probably some sort of timber overlaid exteriorly with
a thin covering of stone to defend it from the weather. A no in-
considerable degree of resemblance appears to exist between the
generaldisposition of these colonnades, and the palace of Solomon,
called in the book of Kings, the House of the Forest of Lebanon ;
and in the account of that building, we find that “the foundation
was of costly stones, even great stones, stones of ten cubits; and
above were costly stones, after the measure of hewn stones, and
cedars. And it was covered with cedar above, upon the beams,
that lay on forty-five pillars, fifteen in a row.” I make this
extract, to shew the use that was made in the East, of different
sorts of timber, in the connecting parts of the noblest structures,
even so much anterior to the age of Cyrus, as the reign of
Solomon. Had the cavities between the bulls' necks, in the
capitals I have just described, been filled with connecting blocks
of stone, some fragments of it would certainly be found attached
to some of them, even at this day; but all I saw were perfectly
void. Had they supported statues, which, on many accounts, is
improbable, some marks must have been traceable : remnants
adhering to the capital, or the capital fractured in breaking the
figures away; the lower extremities of those embellishments being
usually cramped to the pedestal or pillar on which they stood, by
masses of iron; therefore, a foot at least, from amongst seventy-
two statues, which number would have occupied all the columns
in question, must surely have survived any sweeping wreck along
4 M 2
636 - REMARKS ON THE STRUCTURE.
their surface. Such figures too, must have been colossal, to bear
any proportion to the foundations on which they stood; and that
no fragment, either above or below, should ever be noted in the
memory of any traveller, or held in tradition by any of the
people about, would be miraculously wonderful, if such relics
had ever existed. But I am not aware of a precedent in any
idolatrous country, for such a wilderness of gods, as we should
have found assembled here in effigy; and, least of all, could we
expect to find such extravagant proofs of polytheism in a palace
that appears to have owed its origin to the immediate ancestors
of Cyrus, the simple worshippers of Mithra, or the sun; and the
proudest decorations of which may be dated from Darius, the
follower of the philosophic Zoroaster, who imaged the god of
his idolatry in nothing grosser than the element of fire. To
suppose these pillars to have been the supports of commemora-
ting statues to the honour of the heroes of Persia, seems equally
untenable; for it is not in absolute monarchies, as in republics;
or in commonwealths, where kings form only one great
member of the body politic, that the eminent warriors and
worthies of the land have such monuments erected to them.
In Persia, we find the bas-reliefs of its kings and their attendants
on the walls of its palaces: in Rome, we find the statues of
Brutus, and Cato, and Cicero, under the ruins of the Forum.
At a distance of sixty feet from the eastern and western
colonnades, stood the central phalanx of columns, to the number
of thirty-six; but no more than five, at present exist entire.
Therefore, when we calculate these, with those standing in the
three other groups, there are just fifteen remaining erect,
amongst the fallen host which lie in all directions, broken, or
mouldered to dust on the ground. This central group is
CENTER GROUP OF COLUMNS. 637
arranged in rows of six deep on all sides; forming, of course, an
exact square, and planted at the same spaces from each other,
as the columns in the other three divisions. The dimensions of .
these in circumference, and in the depth of the pedestal, as also
the general particulars of their ornaments, are similar in every
respect to the others; but there is a great difference in their
height; those I have before described being sixty feet high, and
these only fifty-five. Their shafts, which are fluted like the
others, are about thirty-five feet in length; but the capitals
which surmount them are of a quite different character, (Plate
XLV. figs, c, c, c, c.) being of the same description with that I
noticed in the great portal, where the crowned and winged bull
is so conspicuous an object. The two lower divisions of the
capital (it being of a triad form) are evidently constructed of
the hallowed lotos; and naturalists who are interested in that
branch of nature's works, would be particularly delighted with an
examination into the beautiful details of this division and re-
union. The upper compartment has only two volutes. The
middle compartment, which is one division of the lotos, appears
to have had some extraneous body introduced into the opening
between it and the lower compartment of the flower; and the
angular and unfinished state of that side of the capital seems to
testify the same. Here, then, the connecting line must have
run, whence the roof could spring. I remarked another cir-
cumstance, on inspecting these columns, which may corroborate
the idea of a roof having been here, from a manifest appearance
of some immense body having, at some period, fallen against
the interior of the capitals, and fractured them there to a very
ruinous degree, while their outward faces are nearly without a
scar. Hence, I would conclude, that the whole of these central
638 CHEHEL MINAR, ITs
columns have been attached to the support of some covering,
either in one, or three divisions of roof; a question that might
have been decided, had the capitals of any of the interior shafts
been still remaining. But there is one peculiarity attached to
the middle range of twelve, pointing north and south, that gives
support to a very interesting idea. All their pedestals rise
some feet higher than any of those by which they are surrounded;
the stone-work being rough and unfinished, and projecting in
strong unshaped blocks, as if to sustain an additionally elevated
pavement. To an eye which had so lately witnessed a vernal
procession to the foot of a Persian throne, the present scene
seemed well adapted for a similar celebration; and as the re-
presentation of the tributary procession along the face of the
terrace, turned the faces of all the groups to the entrance which
fronted this central line of columns, it appeared to mark their
approach thither, to some adequate object, which could only be
the king, Hence, we may consider this terrace as the distin-
guished place for the grand ceremonies of the court; and, as
the sovereign is now, and by every account always has been
seated above the level of his courtiers; on this very marble
pavement, or flooring of some “costly wood,” which I have
supposed formerly covered these rugged pedestals, probably
stood the throne; which held the good and the great, or the
proud and the mighty monarchs of Persia for many generations;
who, seated here, surrounded by their nobles, ministers, and guards,
with ease beheld the epitome of their vast empire, laying the
offerings of provinces and kingdoms at their feet. It is curious
to turn again to the Book of Kings, to still farther compare this
particular spot on the “throne of Jemsheed,” with what is said
RESEMBLANCE TO THE PALACE OF SOLOMON. 639
in Holy Writ of the situation and fabric of the throne of Solomon.
Speaking of the palace, the sacred historian proceeds : —
“And it was covered with cedar above, upon the beams that
lay on forty-five pillars, fifteen in a row; and light was against
light in three ranks. And he made a porch of pillars; the length
thereof was fifty cubits, and the breadth thereof thirty cubits, and
the porch was before them; and the other pillars, and the thick
beam were before them. Then he made a porch for the throne,
where he might judge; and it was covered with cedar from one
side to the other of the floor. — Moreover, the king made a great
throne of ivory, and overlaid it with pure gold; and there were
six steps, to the throne, with a footstool of gold, which were
fastened to the throne, and stays on each side of the sitting-
place, and two lions standing by the stays ; and twelve lions
stood there, on the one side and on the other, on the six steps:
there was not the like made in any kingdom.”— (1 Kings, c. vii.
part of ver. 3, 4, 6, 7.; 2 Chron. c. ix. ver. 17, 18, 19.) - -
This royal magnificence of the king of Israel, was constructed
nearly five hundred years before the time of Cyrus; but yet the
resemblance exists sufficiently strong even at this time, in the
royal details of the East, to make a perfect parallel very likely,
above two thousand years ago. I shall soon have occasion to
observe something very similar to the ivory throne, and the golden
footstool, and elevation of both on the sort of platform I suppose
to have spread between these columns, on the intermediate
pedestals. Indeed, I most decidedly agree with Professor
Heeren, in opinion that the bas-reliefs are all in close relation
with the particular purposes of the several places to which they
are attached; and in pursuing this idea, which seemed proved at
every step, I do not hesitate in pronouncing this unrivalled terrace,
|
640 - HIGH COURT OF HONOURS.
to have been the High Court of Honours of the kings of Persia.
It is now covered with ruins, and in other respects so defaced and
destroyed, as to have become almost one undistinguishable mass.
On it south-eastern quarter particularly, few documents can be
found to complete the chain of conclusive, though silent evidence.
While wishing to dig up the mouldered heaps on that side, to
search for bas-reliefs, to read in them the termination of the
historical solemnity recorded on the front of the terrace, I could
not but acknowledge the consequence of that noble art which
commemorates the leading actions of great men and nations, by
impressing their forms on stone and brass. Well might the
ancients denominate sculpture an immortal art; for we find its
monuments in Egypt, in Greece, in Rome, in Persia, bringing
forth works, to which hardly a date can be assigned; so deeply
does' their beginning lie in the obscurity of antiquity; while
others present a clear commentary on the writings of the an-
cients, explaining some passages, connecting others, and often
proving the doubted truth of certain recorded facts, by a happy
discovery of some of these marble apparitions remaining sta-
tionary on the very spot, where the substance and the action, of
which they are the copy, once had a purpose and abiding-place.
The nearest building (K) now standing, to the Chehel Minar,
or Palace of Forty Pillars, just described, appears on an elevation
of about seven or eight feet above the level of the plane of the
colonnades; and occupies a length of one hurídred and seventy
feet, by ninety-five. We approach it from the west by a double
flight of stairs (A), which are almost in complete ruin; but frag-
ments on, and near them, shew they also have been decorated
with sculptured guards and other figures. The side to the east
is so heaped with fallen remains, covered up with the earth of
IN THE CHEHEL MINAR. . 641
centuries, that it is impossible to find the trace of a correspond-
ing range of stairs there. To the south, the whole face of the
terrace which supports this building, is occupied with another
superb flight, the landing-place of which embraces nearly forty-
eight feet, its width ten. Its front is divided by a tablet bearing
an arrow-headed inscription; on each side of which stand spear-
men of a gigantic height; their heads and shoulders alone, being
now visible above the accumulated rubbish round the base of
the edifice; but from their large proportions, we may easily
calculate the rest. -
It is much to be lamented that none of the British ambassadors,
all of whom have passed through these ruins, (at least, so their
names on the walls would testify,) did not set their numerous
followers to work, to clear away some large portions of the
collected matter, which buries so many valuable documents of
antiquity; and which, probably, has not been opened since the
total destruction of the place by the fanatic Arabs. It is only
persons possessing such an ostensible rank, to whom authority
would be granted, to explore these ruins to any extent; and, I
doubt not, that a man of research, under those circumstances,
clearly explaining his object, would obtain every privilege and
facility, from the liberality of the present royal family of Persia,
to dig; but not deface, nor carry away. *
To the north of the building, after ascending its terrace, we
find an open space (c) of sixty-five feet wide, on which appear
the foundations of some narrow walls; probably belonging to
what had been the front of the edifice, now fallen and swelling
the heaps below. On each side of this space, forty feet towards
the south, stand two lofty entrances (d d) composed of four
solid upright blocks of marble, of a colour nearly black; within
WOL. I. 4 N
642 REMARKS ON THE FIGURES.
the portals of which are bas-reliefs of two guards on each,
sculptured on the sides of the walls. (Plate XLVI.) They are
habited in the Median robe, armed with a long spear, and instead
of the fluted tiara, their heads are bound with a broad band;
which, from the manner it is worn, I should suppose was metal.
In front of the foremost guard, appears a long cylindrical form,
which he seems to grasp behind with his left hand; it is con-
structed of perpendicular rod-like shapes, each considerably
thicker than the staff of his lance, capped at the top with a flat
surface, which is parallel with the chin of the holder. I could
never discover the form of the termination at the nether end ;
for, whenever a repetition of these figures occurred, they have
always been nearly half-buried in the earth. The two advanced
guards on each side of the portal, are the only ones with whom
these things appear. I have heard some persons suppose
them to represent the leaves of a folding door; but that is not
very probable, the general appearance being unlike the usual
surface of a door; and however low may be the common
entrances to tombs, or the cells of devotees, it is not credible
that the ingress to a palace would be so constructed as to oblige
the sovereign to stoop his head on entering. I must here
observe, that all the portals which may be considered public
entrances into hall or chamber, throughout these ruins, are
invariably guarded by a similar double guard. It seems pos-
sible that this questionable substance they are holding, may
be intended for the ancient shield, called the gerra, which
is universally described as formed of the osier, or branches
of the willow. The guards, where it occurs, usually wear the
metal circlet, instead of the fluted tiara ; but when the
tiara'd soldiers appear with a shield, it is always of the Boeotian
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ANCIENT PERSIAN SHIELDs. 643
form. Indeed, no other shape presents itself (if we do not
admit these long narrow masses to be shields,) excepting the
single circular buckler, carried by a man in a short tunic and
sandaled legs, in the procession on the grand staircase. On the
immediate verge of the landing-place, from the western flight
of steps belonging to the building I am describing, (a) we enter
a portal of these long-shielded guards; and, at a very few paces
onward, pass through a second, (f) into a room forty-eight feet
square. Two other doors open from it to the north, two to the
west, one to the south, and formerly two to the east; but one
only remains on that side, fragments alone of the second mark-
ing where its frame-work has been. On three sides of the room,
we found several niches, each excavated in one solid stone,
to a depth of three feet, five in height, and six in the width.
They appear to have been exquisitely polished within, while
upright lines of cuneiform characters run along their edges.
Four windows, ten feet high, open to the south. They embrace
the whole thickness of the wall, namely, five feet; and at present,
from the accumulation of ruins on the floor, are hardly a foot
above it. The door-ways (g g g g) have all, on their several
sides, duplicate bas-reliefs of a royal personage, attended by two
persons, one holding an umbrella. But as it is a subject which
will present itself frequently during my observations on the
whole of these edifices, I shall postpone a more particular
description till I have investigated farther. Compartments of
inscription are over the heads of all the groups. For the same
reason, I shall defer entering on the details of three other bas-
reliefs in the same room, consisting of single combats between
a man and a lion, a man and a griffin, and a man with a non-
descript creature. y &
4 N 2
644 FOURTH TERRACE.
There is another division of the same building, open to the
south, (h) thirty feet in length by forty-eight; and terminating
on each side (ii) towards that point, on the landing of the
superb stairs, by a couple of square pillars of one entire piece of
marble, about twenty-two feet high, and covered in different
ranges with a variety of inscriptions, cuneiform, Cuphic, Arabic,
and Persian. The first has been faithfully copied by Niebuhr:
that in Arabic was written in the year of the Hegira 881. The
whole of the ground in the shell of this building, is greatly
raised by the crumbled masses of its fallen roof, and, probably
that of its central supports also. I must not leave this spot
without remarking, that the faint traces of a double colonnade,
are still visible along the open space which lies between the
western brink of the greater terrace, and the western face of
this building. *
I have now mentioned an ascent of three terraces from the
matural ground of the plain. First, the grand platform which
supports all the others. Second, the Chehel Minar terrace.
Third, the terrace that sustains the edifice of the double
chambers I have just described. A fourth elevation of the
same kind, presents itself at about ninety-six feet to the south
of the preceding, (L) Its summit is on a level with that of the
last, but three of its sides are much obscured by the encumbering
mounds of fragments at their base. Along the northern verge,
parallel to the before-mentioned structure, rise the heads of a
line of figures, in size equal to those on the stairs of the terrace
of the double chamber; but these figures seem to be armed
with the bow and quiver only, no trace of a spear being to be
seen amongst them. A flight of sadly mutilated steps, in two
ascents of fifteen each, is found at the north-western corner ;
FIFTH TERRACE. 645
on these are the vestiges of much fine bas-relief decoration.
Having reached the plane of the terrace, I saw a square of
ninety-six feet; thirty-eight feet of the western side was occupied
by the depth of the approach just described; whence ran along,
in two direct lines, the bases of ten columns; their diameter
being three feet three inches, and standing ten feet equi-distant
from each other. These were all the remains existing on this
level of the fourth terrace; but were the hillocks of buried ruins
removed from its surface, I doubt not we should find the
remnants of a continued piazza, along every side. Fifty-eight
feet of this terrace, at its south-western angle, is surmounted by
an additional square elevation, (M) the whole depth of which,
from the summit to the base, is sixty-two feet; and along its
upper surface are the lower parts of twelve pillars, divided into
three rows, of the same diameter and distance from each other,
as those in the neighbouring colonnade. -
Immediately beyond the completely obliterated tract of build-
ings, on this comparatively small terrace, which I call that of the
Double Pillars, (to facilitate the explanation of so complicated
a succession,) rises a fifth, and much more extensive elevation.
The plan of its edifice might seem to indicate part of the
dwelling-quarters of the royal residence. For, that the different
offices which comprised a palace of the ancient eaStern SO-
vereigns, were not merely divided into courts, as is the present
style in these countries, but were often distinct buildings, may
be seen by referring again to the first book of Kings, c. vii. where
the House of the Forest of Lebanon is described, under the
appellation of Porches, as four completely separate structures.
But before I commence the details of this fifth terrace, I must
stop to hazard a few suggestions on one of the most interesting -
646 MOUND OF RUINS, PROBABLY
spots of the whole magnificent platform. To me, it seemed to
tell its own story; lying like the buried body of the last Darius
under the ruins of his capital, and speaking with a voice from
the grave; crying, in the words of Euripides over the like
desolation, — “O woe, woe, woe My country lost — And
thou, boast of my noble ancestors, how art thou shrunk, -how
art thou vanished l’”
From the southern extremity of the eastern colonnade, on the
terrace of the Chehel Minar, and over all the heaped fragments
which slope from that point down upon the surface of the great
platform, is an expanse of three hundred and fifteen feet, mea-
suring in a direct line from the colonnade to the northern front
(a) of the building on the fifth terrace, yet to be described. The
whole of this vast space lies open, without a protruding wall, or
pillar; but its plain is interrupted by an immense mound of
ruins v, commencing at b b, and sinking again into the level
surface, at c c ; these two points, being the extreme ends
of a line through d, marking a spacious area between the
mound and the dwelling-palace on the fifth terrace, and the
entrances to which were (ee) by two flights of stairs on the east
and west. The appearance of the mound has every mark of
having been a pile of ruins, hid from the face of day for ages; and,
as it has long been an established fact, that the great architectural
remains before us are not of temples, but of mansions dedicated
to the use of the sovereigns of Persia, and their retinue ; I would
hazard an opinion, that this immense heap covers the mouldered
relics of a division of the palace answerable to that (a) immediately
to the south; probably the most magnificent of the two, as it would
lie so much nearer the Chehel Minar, or great hall of audience;
and likely, from that circumstance, contained the chambers of
THE PALACE BURNT BY ALEXANDER THE GREAT. 647
banqueting, and other entertainments. In that case, here may
have stood the very palace of Persepolis, which fell a sacrifice to
the drunken revelry of the Macedonian conqueror. That it did
stand on this platform, there cannot be a doubt; as it manifestly
is the quarter of the city that was assigned to the royal resid-
ence; and there does not appear a spot over the whole space,
so likely to be chosen for the banqueting-halls of the sovereign,
when himself and his friends must be in their most unguarded
moments, as this quadrangle, in the midst of the other regal
edifices, and so standing as if in a sanctuary. Thus much for
the situation alone; but the circumstance of so vast a space,
with so singular a mound occupying so large a portion of it,
strongly inclines me to believe that I am not mistaken, in assign-
ing that heap to the desolating brands of Alexander and his,
then, half-frantic compeers. Certainly not a trace of the effects
of fire is discernible on any of the adjacent walls; and it may
be alleged, that if so considerable a building in their vicinity,
had been consumed to ashes, the ravages of the flames must
have reached and marked some of them. But in looking on the
plan, and perceiving how unconnectedly all the edifices stood
from each other; not merely separated by spacious areas, but
divided by detached terraces, we might easily imagine how one
of them might be burnt to the ground, without a spark reaching
any of the others. Besides, the solidity of the walls of these
palaces are calculated to confine the fire, as in a furnace, within
which ever of them it might be kindled, while it continued
devouring all, interiorly, that was combustible in its way.
The internal materials of the destroyed palace, according to
Q. Curtius, (lib. v.), were cedar, and other consumable sub-
stances; these, with the splendid hangings, and carpets on the
648 REMARKS ON THE CONFLAGRATION
walls and floors, with the more ample draperies suspended over
the usual openings in the sides of the grand saloons, for the
double purpose of air and to shield them from the Sun, would,
altogether, when once the brand was set to the building, hasten
its destruction. That such veils from the heat were of ancient
use in Persia, we find in the Book of Esther, (ch. i. ver, 6.) speak-
ing of the palace, “Where were white, green, and blue hangings,
fastened with cords of fine linen to silver rings, and pillars of
marble.” The custom, indeed, prevails to the present day. It
being admitted, that the interior alone of the edifice was con-
sumed, the next objection might be, that no trace of such solid
walls are yet standing. But the substance of the stones, of
which they were built, would be so injured by the extreme ac-
tion of the fire, that we may readily conceive its rapid crumbling
to decay, and falling in upon the already prostrated roof. Be-
sides, we learn from Plutarch, that the madness of Alexander's
intoxication subsided almost as soon as the wanton act he had
committed blazed into full effect, and that with laudable repent-
ance and activity, he commenced every exertion to extinguish,
or prevent the flames from spreading. In this attempt it is
likely that a very common mode under similar circumstances,
would be resorted to, and part of the edifice itself battered in,
to smother the fire. The foundation of the mound would thus
be raised at once, and the casualties of successive ages could not
fail heaping it with earth, till it assumed the rounded form in
which it now appears. -
Q. Curtius, in his account of this affair, exaggerates the extent
of the destruction, by saying that Alexander did not confine his
violence to the palace, “but, at the instigation of a prostitute,
and infuriated with wine, took a flaming brand, and totally
OF THE BANQUETING-HOUSE, BY ALEXANDER. 649
destroyed the city he had just before spared with the noblest
clemency, when his soldiers had taken it sword in hand. He
now burnt it to the ground, not leaving a vestige of its lofty
buildings to mark the spot on which it stood; and only to be
traced in our times by the stream of the Araxes, said to have
flowed twenty stades from its walls.” But so far from this ac-
count being correct, we find, both from Strabo and Arrian, that
Alexander inhabited the royal palace of Persepolis, after his
return from India : hence, only one detached part of it could
have been consumed. And a hundred and sixty years after-
wards, Antiochus Epiphanius formed a project to pillage the
city of Persepolis and its temple. (2 Maccabees.) This is one
evidence, that even the riches of the ancient capital existed long
after the Macedonian conquest. Plutarch's description of the
disgraceful scene which led to the disaster I am discussing, con-
firms me in the idea that it was the banqueting-house alone,
where the king and his companions were feasting, to which they
set fire. The historian mentions, that in the midst of the revels
the courtesan Thais, an Athenian by birth, boasted of the plea-
sure she felt in thus triumphing over Persia in the stately palace
of its monarchs, and expatiated on the glory it would be to set
fire to the court of Xerxes with her own hands, while the con-
queror should stand by and approve the deed. Excited by this,
and the wine he had drunk, the king starts from his seat, seizes
a burning torch, and with his chaplet of feasting on his head,
rushes forward, with his party in the same way armed, and sets
the whole in a blaze. “ However,” adds his biographer, “ all
writers agree that he soon repented of his rashness, and made
every effort to extinguish the flames.” Had he left the place he
was in to kindle any other building of the palace, it must have
WOL. I. 4 o
650 REMARKS ON THE RUINS.
been a business of so much trouble and contrivance to ignite
stone walls and pillars with the simple brands in their hands,
that Alexander could not but have had ample time to come to
his senses, before the mischief was at all effected. But instead
of any such elaborate process, we find that the whole was the
action of an instant; and therefore nothing is so likely as that
Thais and the king would light the draperies of the hall with
their torches, and then rush out, with the mad crew at their
heels, dancing and shouting, as the historian describes, till the
rising spires of the flames reminded Alexander that he was a
king, and his most royal prerogative that of mercy. That the
ruin was not cleared away for the purpose of rebuilding, is not
a surprising circumstance, when we consider the brevity of
Alexander's life, and the periods of confusion which followed
his death. The city gradually fell into neglect, and consequent
decay after this, its first recorded calamity; but such neglect
was not the effect of the destruction then wrought, but of the
previous conquest by a foreign power. A long succession of
stranger princes, for so we may call both the Greeks and the
- Parthians, naturally inclined to prefer any city as their residence
before the capital of the ancient race, promoted the abandon-
ment of these walls and towers, which the cruel devastation of the
Arabs in after-ages utterly accomplished. Hence it is very
probable, that this very spot has remained in almost the same
state from the night of its “stately palace’s” destruction, which
took place three hundred and twenty-nine years before the
birth of our Saviour, to the day in which I stood by its mound,
and made my notes for these observations. .
The next subject of remark, is the terrace to the south of this
(I wish for the honour of a really great man we might say)
REMARKS ON THE RUINS. 651
tumulus of Alexander's maddened folly! And on that terrace,
(which is the fifth in the order of description,) stand the remains
of one of the most regularly and amply planned structures of
the whole platform. (N) Its site is also the most elevated,
shewing even now upwards of twenty feet above the level of
that vast foundation. From its dimensions, and the disposition
of its numerous apartments, with its contiguity to the destroyed
part, which I suppose to have contained the festival halls,
and the passages leading to the high court of ceremonies
contained in the Chehel-minar, I am induced to believe this
the dwelling quarters of the monarch, and where he might hold
his more private days of audience. Hence, it is deeply to be
regretted, that its state is one of the most ruinous of the whole;
though enough remains to allow the ground plan to be traced
with the greatest precision, and also to shew the bases and
plinths of its pillars, with fragments of beautiful sculpture
scattered about in the saddest confusion. The principal door-
ways, and huge marble window-frames are yet in their places;
their lofty sides, and ponderous lintels, resembling, though with
the finest workmanship, our druidical monument of Stonehenge.
Perhaps we cannot have a better concurrent argument for the
truth of our accounts of the longevity of the early patriarchs,
than this habitual fashion of their more immediate descendants
in all countries, to make erections calculated for the duration of
ages. But to proceed with my description. Beginning at the
southern side of this minor terrace, we find at the eastern and
western ends, two flights of narrow steps (ff) descending to a
lower level of thirty feet. These ways of ingress, from their
style, appear to have been private, probably only appropriated
to the inhabitants of the place. The several faces of the
4 O 2
652 REMARKS ON THE RUINS.
building are at present only marked by their foundations, with
the exception of one window to the west, and three to the east.
They open from a couple of corresponding wings; which divisions
are each sub-divided into three spacious apartments, the outer
ones alone communicating with the pillared courts at G G. In
the center of those courts or quadrangles stand the plinths of four
small columns, in diameter not more than two feet six inches,
but placed at a distance from each other of six feet, and sixteen
feet from the door, (h) which leads into a noble hall of ninety
feet square, the pavement being marked with the sites of thirty-
six pillars of three feet three inches in diameter. A door on
the opposite side of the hall corresponds with the one already
mentioned, both conducting into similar open quadrangles of
four pillars. Another portal leads to the south, and a fourth
and fifth to the north, into a large vestibule the whole width of
the hall, and supported by eight similar columns; at least their
plinths remain, so to testify. Two doors from the vestibule,
pointing east and west, lead into six smaller rooms; (k k) and
from similar foundations, I conclude they joined others still
more to the north.
The windows (1111111) are each formed of four large blocks
of marble, six feet in thickness, which is also the depth of the
walls. In height they are four feet eight inches, and in width
three feet six. On the inner faces of those that give light to
the rooms (m m m) are duplicate bas-reliefs, (Plate XLVII.)
occupying the whole surface, and consisting of two figures in
each. The first figure is clothed in the long robe and buskins,
but his head wears a kind of cowl, which passes over his mouth,
and hangs down upon his chest and back. His face is much
mutilated, and so are his hands, in which he appears to be
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carrying a cup, or goblet. He is followed by a man in a short
tunic and leathern belt round his waist. This person wears a
very singularly shaped cap, nearly covering his bushy hair
behind, and totally veiling both his mouth and beard. . With
his left hand he grasps the horn of an animal resembling the
mountain-goat of the country, and rests his right upon its neck.
The sculptor has given this beast but one horn, which issues
from the middle of the forehead, and in form like that of the
Ibex. The windows (ll o o, are all ornamented with three bas-
relief figures following each other, and every one facing inwards,
as if going to the same spot; but what several of them carry in
their hands, is now undistinguishable. The leading person in
all these groups, is dressed exactly like the man with the cup
before the goat, and the people who follow, in the habit of the
man who holds the animal. One of these leaders supports a
tray on both hands, on which rests a shape not unlike a skin of
wine, or it may be a cloth thrown over some choice viands on
the tray. The persons after him carry, with a peculiar grace of
action, each a covered vessel of a form that denotes the contents
being for repast. Indeed, I have seen resembling dishes now in
Persia, holding rice and little roasts, or kababs. This suite of
the apartments I should therefore think, might originally have
been appropriated to the private table of the sovereign and his
family; while the division, now no more, was dedicated to feasts
of state, and other entertainments: and, in that case, this very
building might have been that occupied by Alexander after his
return from India. . &
Xenophon mentions, that in. addressing a superior, the
speaker generally held his hand to his mouth, that his breath
might not be disagreeable to his auditor; possibly, the serving-
654 BAS-RELIEFS.
men might have their visages thus muffled up, that the royal
viands might not be breathed upon. On the broken remnants
of the windows (b b b g g) are found similar lines of three
figures, (Plate XLVII.) some with their heads enveloped, and
others perfectly free, but all carry some dish or bowl. Amongst
the least defaced, I found two habited in the Median robe, on
whose heads were the broad fillets, I suppose to be made of
metal. The visages of both these are uncovered. One holds in
his right hand a sort of censer, evidently intended for burning
perfumes; and in the other hand, a vessel resembling a pail,
probably to contain the aromatic gums. The man who follows
him has a little bottle set in the palm of his hand, and in the
other he carries a piece of linen. It has always been a custom
in the East, to wash with fragrant waters, both before and after
meals, for which purpose these attendants might be designed.
The frames of the doors have all one sort of bas-relief, namely,
a royal personage followed by two attendants bearing an umbrella
and a fly-chaser. Of this subject I shall give a more particular
description hereafter ; but meanwhile I remark, that wherever
this style of bas-relief is found, there are three small compart-
ments of inscription over its head. The outer doors, (k k) also
those in the wings which their traces shew, are ornamented with
the two guards armed with the spear only. In this part of the
building may be seen, in various places beneath the pavement,
what was the subterraneous aqueduct: it passes in a direct line
under the center of the great hall (N) due east, where it received
its supply of water from an immense tank, yet visible at the
foot of the rocks in that quarter. From the same center, the
great hall, it strikes out again in a northward direction, being
traceable to the cistern (y) near the grand portals of the bulls
REMARKS ON THE RUINS. 655
on the first platform ; and, doubtless, has many other branches
besides, which are now totally lost under the accumulated ruins.
The channel is very ruggedly hewn out of the solid rock; and
it is this dark way which some former travellers, not apprehend-
ing its real purpose, have described as a secret passage com-
municating with other mysterious excavations in the body of the
mountain, and also leading to certain subterraneous entrances
into its tombs. These designs seem very improbable, but at
any rate a close examination of the channel, appears to me so
very declarative of its use, that I am only surprised any other
conjecture respecting it ever could be conceived.
At the sides of the open court (d) stand the remains of its
once magnificent approaches; (ee) near that to the east, ten
or twelve feet from the landing-place of its stairs, rise from a
hollow beneath, to a level with the pavement, four enormously
large and strong supports, (P) in shape not unlike rough-formed
pedestals intended to uphold some body or bodies, of very great
weight. The flight of steps they face, is of a double ascent,
beginning from beneath inwardly. They are in a state of almost
complete decay, with a scarcely legible inscription, and bas-
reliefs of guards, with duplicates of the combat between the lion
and the bull, all in the same broken condition.
About sixty feet from hence, to the north, (o) appear several
colossal masses of stone, formerly the sides of large portals lead-
ing into a square edifice, small in proportion to the size and
number of its entrances; for, from the situation of these four
doors, it could not have been more than ninety-six feet. Three
of the door-ways are yet pretty entire. On the interior face of
the one to the east, are three figures of such gigantic dimensions
as to be twelve feet in height. They are a repetition of the
656 BAS-RELIEFs.
king and his attendants, before mentioned, and which I shall
now particularly describe. (Plate XLVIII.) The monarch is
represented in the act of walking, and is accompanied by a
couple of attendants. The face of his majesty is mutilated, but
the air of his person is singularly stately and majestic. A long
and venerable-looking beard is disposed with the nicest care
upon his breast, and the abundant mass of hair which covers his
neck, is not less scrupulously curled. His tiara has a smooth
surface, but partakes of the general shape worn by his robed
nobles and guards. In his right hand he carries a long thin
staff, with an ornamented finishing at the top. Herodotus ob-
serves, that the Babylonians made use of sticks in walking, with
richly decorated heads carved in various figures. An apple, it
is said, was the usual termination, on the sceptre or staff of the
Persian kings; but the ornament on this regal person's staff,
does not resemble that shape in the least. In his left hand he
holds a lotos, the calix and leaves of which announce its name,
without dispute. The broad belt and Median robe complete
his raiment. His attendants follow: one carrying in both his
hands an umbrella over the head of the great personage; while
the other waves his fly-chaser in the same direction, grasping in
his left hand what, probably, is intended for the royal handker-
chief. These are clad in the long robe, with the metal fillet
round their heads, and rings in their ears. The admirable taste
and fine finish of this bas-relief, redoubled my regret at the de-
molished state of the faces and hands; the feet also are lost, by
the rising heaps around, formed by the ruins of the rest of the
building; these, uniting with those of the mound on its western
side, have connected the whole, by a regular slope, to the terrace
below...That the principal personage here depicted, represents
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REMARKS ON THE BAS-RELIEFs. 657
the monarch I believe there can be no doubt; the peculiarity of
his beard, and the employment of his servants, attest his dig-
nity; the use of the umbrella being regarded in Persia as the
prerogative of royalty alone. One large stone, sixteen feet high,
and between eight and nine feet wide, contains the group.
Another block of smaller dimensions surmounts it, on which is
seen a figure whose dress and outline of form resemble those of
the personage below. The only difference is, that his left hand
holds a ring, and his right is raised and open. He issues from
a circle, whence diverge two floating forms, something like ser-
pents with their heads hidden behind the figure. A pair of
immense wings spread themselves on each side of the circle; in
that differing from the radiated vehicle of the aerial being so
often seen on the tombs of Nakshi-Roustam. r
If this be the Ferwer, or spiritual prototype of the king, which,
according to the Zendavesta, always hovers near him, its wings
may be attributes of the duties of a living monarch, activity and
fostering care of his people; while the Intelligence, whom we see
on the tombs, supported by clouds and sun-beams, shews that
the prince who was his divided self, has now nothing more to
do with the business of earth but to appear once in the glorified
substance into the essence of which his shade is absorbed, to his
royal successor while performing the established rites at his
tomb. * *
Perhaps this doctrine of Zoroaster may be more clearly seen
in an extract from the Desatir, a work of the old Pehlivi, and
which, amongst other subjects, attempts an explanation of the
above mystery. -
“Verse 35. Whatever is on earth, is the resemblance and
shadow of something that is in the sphere.
VOL. I. 4 P
658 THE FERWER, OR SECOND SELF.
“36. While that resplendent thing [the prototype] remaineth
in good condition, it is well also with its shadow.
“37. When that resplendent object removeth far from its
shadow, life fadeth away. -
“38. Again, that resplendent thing is the shadow of a light
more resplendent than itself. -
“39. And so on, up to Mez, [Ormuzd] who is the light of
lights.” — Desatir, Book of Zerdusht.
With the exception of the figure in the centre, the symbol of
the wings and circle is precisely that which so often occurs over
almost all the ancient temples of the East, designating Pro-
vidence, and which is worshipped in Egypt under the name of
the god Cneph. The circle of entwined serpents, bespeak Eter-
nity and Wisdom, and the expanded wings, Ubiquity and pro-
tective Goodness. Doubtless, the pride of many Persian mo-
narchs would be flattered by the association of such lofty attributes
of divinity, with their Ferwer, or second self; and believing
themselves already half gods, they would disdain their duties as
men. But there were others who might read a salutary lesson
in this sublime emblem. Besides the sovereign properties of
wisdom, omnipresence, and eternity, there was another, of
ministration — protecting goodness, which was the most con-
spicuous symbol of the whole; and therefore, only in its exer-
cise, could a king prove his claim to the high attributes of
wisdom and ubiquity, by a general watchfulness, through up-
right ministers, over the welfare of his subjects; by the enacting
of just laws, and their impartial fulfilment; and by that univer-
sal paternal conduct which gave Cyrus the name of “Father of
his People,” rendering it immortal on earth, while, with “the
spirits of the just made perfect,” we cannot doubt that he who
/
BAS-RELIEFS. - 659
“was called by name the Shepherd of the Lord, to do all his
pleasure,” would himself be enjoying the eternity of heaven. It
does not, however, appear from any thing we read, (whatever
might be the belief from the earliest ages in Persia, of guardian
angels,) that the idea of a Ferwer or presiding second-self, was
ever thought of there before the time of Zoroaster; and that
was some years after the death of Cyrus. And if this aerial
figure is meant to represent that extraordinary being, it at once
decides that the bas-reliefs where it forms a part, must have
been the work of a subsequent reign ; and none so likely as that
of Darius Hystaspes, who was the patron of Zoroaster, and the
zealous assertor of his doctrines and religious rites. Indeed,
according to the hyperbolical calculations of the East, we are
told that the regulations of the prophet were so numerous, and
the reverence in which they were held by the monarch so de-
voted, that they filled “twelve thousand skins of parchment, of
a cow-hide each,” and were deposited, by the royal order, in
spacious vaults dug in the bosom of the rock at Persepolis,
“Holy men were appointed to guard them; and it was com-
manded that the profane should never approach the sacred
records.” (Zeenut-ul-Tuarkh.) But it appears that the sword of
the caliphs, like that of Alexander, cut the cord of mystery: the
sanctuary of the sacred archives was violated by the followers of
Mahomed; and the originals of the Zendavesta were heard of
no more.
We now return to the bas-reliefs of the structure (O). On
the portals (b b) are duplicates of the same royal personage I
have just described as walking forth under his umbrella; but
here he is represented seated on a chair of state, holding a staff
in one hand and a lotos in the other. An attendant stands
4 P 2
660 - REMARKS ON THE RUINS.
behind, waving the usual fly-chaser over his head; and the
aerial figure we have been discussing, in his winged car, hovers
near him. These four portals(a a bb) open opposite to each other
in the four sides of this quadrangular building; in the centre of
which I found the plinths of four columns, standing equidistant
ten feet, and each in diameter four feet. From the form, and
the immense materials of this place, the latter so much beyond
any common proportion with its present apparent dimensions,
it seems very likely to have been dedicated to religious uses;
and, probably, was the private oratory of the king, where he
offered up his daily adorations to Mezdan, (Ormuzd): such
solidity of structure being a reverence to the name to which it
was inscribed. From the smoothness of these four large central
stones, it does not appear that they had formerly been con-
nected with any crowning material, neither a platform, nor
statues; and so far from there being any probability of images
occupying this, or any other temple in Persia, from the reign of
Cyrus, to that of the last Darius, we learn from historians, that
Cambyses, the son of Cyrus, destroyed Apis, the idolatrous
object of the Egyptians' worship, in his indignation at likening
the Supreme Power to a brute beast; and that Xerxes, the son
of Darius Hystaspes, and the pupil of Zoroaster, broke in pieces .
the statues of the Greeks, from the same sense of what was due
to Deity. Hence, I should suppose, that between these four
pillars stood the altar that contained the sacred fire; the only
visible image of the Divinity, which his followers admitted into
their temples. This edifice, like most of the others, rose on its
own distinct little terrace; and though all its entrances seem to
have been distinguished by the royal effigy, yet here we find no
representations of guards to protect his sacred person; which
seems to declare, that the place is sanctuary sufficient; and its
REMARKS ON THE RUINS. 661
proximity to the part of the palace which now lies under the
mound, further inclines me to believe that this was the retiring
place of the monarch, to perform his morning and evening
adorations. - - - --
At about a hundred and sixty feet to the south-east of this
little building of the four pillars, and down upon the level of the
great platform, (u) appears another pile of ruins. (P) On draw-
ing near, I found not only foundations and scattered fragments,
but the frames of doors and windows, and niches in the walls;
SOIſle upright, and all distinctly traceable. A quadrangular
building, (P) of forty-eight feet, constitutes its chief structure;
and another, separated from it by only the intermediate wall,
extends towards the south thirty feet, where it is completely
open. These two apartments would appear to comprehend the
whole edifice, did we not see a continuation of the foundation .
of walls along the southern front, with the fragments of columns, -
architraves, and other architectural adjuncts to the support of a
roof. At the extremities of the walls which point to the south,
leaving the open space between, (b b) are two single stones, in
height about eighteen feet, five in thickness, and three and a
half in width. Their inward faces, near the top, are excavated
with large square holes, as if for the reception of a connecting
beam. A couple of door-ways at (c c) have bas-reliefs of the
double guard on their sides, and another portal of considerable
expansion opens from the middle of the southern apartment
into the inclosed quadrangle. On this passage we found the
walking figure of the king, attended by one person only, carrying
a parasol. The square to which it conducted us, has received its
principal light from a range of lofty windows; the casements of
three are yet tolerably perfect, as well as are several niches cut
662 REMARKS ON THE RUINS.
in the solid wall. Two entrances open into it from the east and
west, ornamented with repetition bas-reliefs of a combat between
a man and a lion. Two others perforate the wall to the north,
(all the walls are five feet thick,) but one only of its portals is
standing, and its sides are sculptured with the spearmen. The
interior ground of these apartments, as well as that without, is
raised, and rendered very uneven by the fallen fragments of their
more ruined parts. No trace of an inscription is to be found
in the building ; neither does it appear to stand, like those to
the west, on any terrace of its own.
At one hundred and ninety feet to the north, stands a structure
(q) next in extent as a single building, to that of the Chehel-
minar. It is a perfect square, of two hundred and ten feet
along each face. Two doors enter it from every side, but those
from the north have been the grand portals, being thirteen
feet in width, whereas all the others are only seven. Between
every two of the latter is an immense niche, while the former
are divided by seven large windows, whose side-blocks measure
ten feet, the original depth of the walls. At forty feet distant.
from the northern front, and almost parallel with its east and
west corners, rise the mutilated forms of two colossal bulls, (a a)
standing on pedestals of eighteen feet in length, by five in height.
They are the remains of statues, not bas-reliefs, and clearly shew
by their position on each side of an area of entrance, that they
were meant for ornament, not idolatry. These two face the
north ; and at two hundred and seventy feet from them, in the
same direction, (R) appear two others looking due south. This
latter twain have formed the sides of a grand gate-way, the style
and dimensions of which are much like those of the great
portal (D) on the first platform. The one I am now describing.
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BAS-RELIEFS. 668
forms the vertex of a triangle, of which the north front of the
square building is the base; henee it faces neither of the doors,
but probably was the entrance into some spacious outer court:
its noble remains are cruelly defaced, but enough is left to shew
both its purpose and ornaments. At S a little further to the
north, we see an enormous insulated column terribly broken,
but still I was enabled to make a copy of its fine capital. (Plate
XLV. fig, E.) But to return to the square building itself. The
sides of the principal doors (cc) are richly adorned with sculp-
ture; and in the most elevated compartment of the whole, we
find the kingly personage mentioned before, seated on his chair
of state, (Plate XLIX) with both feet resting on a footstool.
Over his head, are the bas-relief remains of a canopy supported
by slender pillars, the whole profusely decorated with fret-work,
fringes, and borders of lions and bulls. After what we had
seen before, there can be little doubt that the attendant spirit
had, as usual, surmounted the group, but it was now entirely
broken away. The seat of the royal personage answers exactly
to the description given by Brisson in one of the passages he
has selected as illustrative of Persian antiquities and customs,
and which states, that the throne of the king of Persia was a
chair gorgeously inlaid with gold, covered with a splendid carpet
or cushion, and so high from the ground, that a stool was always
placed at its feet. This description is not unlike that of the throne
of Solomon, in the second book of Chronicles: —“ Moreover,
the king made a great throne of ivory, and overlaid it with pure
gold; and there was a footstool of gold, and stays on each side of
the sitting-place.”—So far, the chair, or throne: the platform, or
pedestal, or either one or the other, on which it might stand,
are totally distinct from the idea of the throne itself. That such
664 BAS-RELIEFS.
was the only form of seat regarded by the ancients as that of
sovereignty, may be gathered from a variety of authorities; and
amongst others, several Grecian coins, where we see Jupiter
placed in a similar chair; and nearly all the Parthian money
that has fallen in my way, bears the same sort of throne, though
very rudely represented. But what is more curious still, so
long has the fashion of this chair lasted, and so widely has it
travelled, that there is hardly perhaps one of my English readers
who has not seen, in the old hall of some family mansion in
England, almost a fac-simile of the great high carved chair in
which the king of Persia sits here enthroned. In this, the two
favourite symbolical animals of the east form part of the
ornaments; we find the feet of the lion in the legs of the chair,
and those of the bull in the feet of the footstool. In this
representation of the royal personage, his dress is particularly
simple, having neither collar nor bracelets; in his right hand he
holds the long staff, or sceptre, and in his left the lotos. He is
evidently sitting in state. Behind him stands the usual at-
tendant with the fan and handkerchief, and his face muffled, for
probably the same reason as mentioned before. A second
figure in the short Persian tunic follows, bearing the royal bow
and battle-axe. Sword, or arms bearers, of whatever sort the
king might use, were appendages of state all over the East, and
the custom exists in the court of Persia to this day. The battle-
axe which presents itself here, is in all probability the sagaris.
We are told that it resembled the double axe of the Amazons.
This before us, though a double-headed instrument, wants one
essential feature of an axe, the pointed or sharp edge on the
two extremities; but it is not unlikely, that, borne here only as
a weapon of state, its hostile ends would be blunted, emblematic
BAS-RELIEFS. 665
of the peace and security near the throne. Under the same
idea, we find the bow cased that accompanies it; and having
a handle, which the bearer grasps, I should suppose it to be
something of a cross-bow. A third person stands behind, on
the other side of the sort of pillared recess which incloses the
immediate group round the king. His dress is the Median robe
and fluted tiara ; and he holds a long wand in both hands: it has
Il O appearance of ever having been pointed with a spear-head;
hence, I suppose him an officer of purely court occupation, and
probably, from being so near the person of the monarch, of the
highest rank. Just before the foot of the throne, two gracefully
shaped vessels present themselves, similar to those which are
carried by the figure in Plate XLVII., but with the addition of
connecting chains to their covers. I have no doubt they contain
burnt perfumes, and their situation between the king and his appli-
cants warrants the idea. A muffled attendant approaches from
without the pillared frame on that side, bringing a small metal-
like pail, (as seen in the former plate,) which probably contains
the prepared aromatics to supply them. Immediately behind
the censers, and in front of the sovereign, appears a man in the
short tunic and plain bonnet, with his left hand grasping the
short staff which marks the court-ushers on the great stair-case,
and his right held to his mouth, to prevent his breath exhaling
towards the august personage to whom he bends as he addresses
himself. Lowliness of attitude on approaching superiors, is yet
sufficiently a mark of good breeding in Persia; but this personal
delicacy (so necessary indeed to mutual personal respect) seems
to have expired with the courtiers of the Kaianian dynasty.
Beneath the royal group, and divided from it by a long ho-
rizontal border studded with roses, are five ranges of attendants,
WOL. I. - 4 Q
666 - BAS-RELIEFS.
each row, separated in the same way by a similar border. Indeed,
a frame of this rose-work incloses the whole bas-relief, like that of
a picture. The first row, under the king, contains ten figures,
all in the Median robe and fluted tiara, and grasping spears.
The three first on the right hand of the sculpture, carry also
the Boeotian-shaped shield on their left arms; and as they are
marching towards the middle of the ground on which they
appear to move, their spear-hands are towards the spectator.
Before them are two with the spears, but no shields, and the
foremost of them, standing in the center of the bas-relief, just
under the feet of the king, faces another guard armed in the
same way, who is the leader of four more spearmen resembling
those on the opposite side. The shields of these three are
consequently towards the spectator. The second row, is also a
rank of ten figures. All here, excepting two, are in the Persian
tunic, and plain curved bonnet, with spears in their hands, and
the cased bow, and short sword at their sides. They are divided
into two parties like the row above them, meeting in the center,
where their two leaders face each other, in the Median robe and
tiara, spears in their hands, and open bows with quivers over
their shoulders. The third range is also of ten, in two divisions,
marching to the same point. The men are in the tunic and
plain cap, with the short sword on the right side, and cased
cross-bows held over their shoulders; their leaders in the Median
dress, and armed as the two above them. The fourth rank is
precisely like the second, and the fifth like the fourth. But
there may appear a distinction between the military array of the
two files of robed leaders who bear the insignia of archery; the
quivers of all those up the right side of the center seeming to be
of a different shape at the top from that of the quivers on the
SCULPTURED PORTALS, 667
opposite side; but the apparent variation arises wholly from our
seeing the same arrow-hood in different views; and I cannot pass
it without drawing my reader's attention to the nicety with which
it closes over the feathers. These five ranges of guards, evidently
placed in regular rotation over each other, some way to represent
their lines of station near the person of the king in the real
scene, give me an impression that the platform on which the
royal chair stood, was placed on an elevation of five steps, with
the same number of ranks in the guards which stood before it;
and who, probably, might occasionally leave a space between
the files of leaders for an approach to the throne.
Just beyond the great northern front of this building, are two
portals, (d d) pointing to the east and west; their sides are
sculptured with the double guard, (Plate XLVI.) in so gigantic
a style, that were the earth cleared away that encumbers their
base, the figures would be twelve feet high. They are visible
from a little below the knee, from which to the top of the head,
they measure ten feet ten inches. The length of each face is
two feet seven inches, of a beautiful contour, and admirably
executed. I have attempted to copy its character with the
strictest accuracy. The spear, as far as is seen, measures
fourteen feet seven inches; and if we allow three feet to be
hidden in the ruins, it will extend to seventeen feet seven inches.
When we reduce the guard who holds it to the common size of
nature, and proportion the spear to that reduction, we then find
it no more than seven feet eight inches long; a weapon of no
extraordinary dimensions, and which agrees perfectly with
Herodotus, “ wiyuo.; 36 GF23:32; xov.” Indeed, every other in the
various bas-reliefs appear no longer. The whole way between
these portals is thickly scattered over with fragments of columns,
4 Q 2
668 SYMBOLICAL FIGURES OVER
architraves, &c. which leave no doubt of a covered colonnade
having overshadowed this principal face of the building. The
doors that open from the southern side, (ee) are the same in
depth, and in the subject of their sculptures, as those on the
north. Here, also, on the higher compartments, (Plate L.) sits
the royal figure in the usual garb, but attended by the fly-chaser
alone. The canopy over his head is quite entire, displaying the
most exquisite workmanship in its fretted fringe, roses, and other
ornaments. Lions, and the unicorn-bull, fill two rows of it; the
range of the first being separated by the serpent-winged emblem,
in like manner as in the mutilated canopy on the other side of the
building. The aerial figure surmounts the whole, occupying an
exact fac-simile of the symbol below; the universality of its appear-
ance in the most ancient structures of the East, prevents me from
giving it the appellation Egyptian, though it was on the temples
of that country I first saw it, and we are apt to attribute the
primary use of things to the places where we first notice them.
Instead of a ring in his hand, the Ferwer, in this bas-relief,
holds the lotos, an emblem of even more extensive adoption
than the other. But that ideas of divine, or angelic attributes,
have been connected from the earliest times with these em-
blematic wings, circles, and radiated ethereal cars, we find in the
most ancient of all books, divine in its origin; and so well
attested by nature, that witnesses to its veracity, even as a history
of the East, rise up every day in the persons of successive
travellers. In a former part of this volume, I have already
remarked on the symbolical wings given to angels, so early
as the time of Moses, when, by the divine appointment, he
spread them over the mercy-seat of the ark of the law. De-
scriptions of the like ministers and messengers of the Most High,
THE ROYAL PERSONAGE. 669
are given in all the Prophets, and most of them with the same
attributes more or less ; but in Ezekiel, we find a vision of
seraphic forms, who appear in something like the radiated car
of the Persian Ferwer, as it is seen on the tombs. -
“And I looked, and behold a great cloud, and a fire infolding
itself, and a brightness was about it; and out of the midst
thereof, as the colour of amber, came the likeness of four living
creatures; and this was their appearance, they had the likeness
of a man. As for their rings, they were so high that they were
dreadful; and their rings were full of eyes, round about them
four. And when the living creatures went, the wheels went by
them: and when the living creatures were lifted up from the
earth, the wheels were lifted up. Whithersoever the spirit was
to go, they went; for the spirit of the living creature was in the
wheels.” (Chap. i. part of verses 4, 5, 18, 19, 20.) Though the
further context of these verses is universally accepted as symbolical
prophecies of the four great empires in that part of the world,
which succeeded the Jewish captivity; yet the imagery is quoted
here, to shew whence Zoroaster drew the attributes, and even the
general ideas of his Ferwer; that which the Prophet presents as
symbolical, the impostor advancing as reality. Ezekiel wrote
about a century before the appearance of Zoroaster, who did
not promulgate his reformation, as he called it, of the Mithratic
religion, till nearly fifty years after the restoration of the Jews to
their country; and, indeed, we may trace a second more in-
sidious plunder of the temple, its ordinances, and mysteries of
the law and the prophets, in many of the perverted doctrines
and rites of the Persian sage.
But to return to the bas-relief of the king, his winged prototype
having carried me so far away. Three rows of figures, with a
670 THE ROYAL CANOPY.
broad frieze between each row, fill the space between theroyal seat
and the ground. The first row consists of four persons, supporting
the upper frieze, or rather platform on which the throne is placed,
with their uplifted hands, in the manner of caryates': the second
row exhibits five men, upholding the intermediate frieze in
the same way: while one figure only, and that an Ethiopian,
is visible of the third range, which is so overgrown with
earth, that a few strokes of the pick-axe were necessary to arrive
at a distinct sight of this solitary Atlas. The rest of the figures
on the two upper rows, are all in dresses I had seen in the pro-
cession on the great stairs; some in the Persian tunic and short
sword, but more in the Median garb. The whole is inclosed
in a sort of frame-work of double pillars, to which the canopy is
attached at the top; while their nether extremities rest on each
side of the royal platform, meeting the summits of two immense
horizontally fluted columns; the lower ends of which are huge
lion limbs, on a base something like that of the pedestal under the
same-formed legs of the chair. These two columns support the
platform on which the king sits, on each side of the caryatided
front; the whole bearing a close resemblance to the royal eleva-
tion on the tombs at Nakshi-Roustam, and therefore a no in-
considerable argument of both being the work of nearly the
same age. - -
Some of the niches, in the interior of the building, are still
entire; and present a simple and beautiful effect, whether seen
singly, or, viewed in a range together. That which I have
drawn, (Plate L.) stands about fifteen feet above the accumulated
earth on the floor, and is composed of four stones. The upper
one forms the pediment, which is carved with three rows of the
lotos-leaf, exquisitely cut, and rising from a beaded cornice,
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The second stone constitutes the top of the niche; the third the
niche itself, being hollowed into that form; and the fourth
makes the foundation. Two feet six inches of this mether stone,
remain above ground; and I do not think that more than an
additional eight inches is buried in the ruins. It is not easy to
form any conjecture respecting the use of these gigantic recesses;
but they certainly have the effect of lightening, by the symmetry
of their forms, the broad, and otherwise heavy flat of the walls.
They do not appear to have been intended for statues, the bot-
tom stones being perfectly smooth, and of the most brilliant
polish. In all the modern palaces of Persia we find similar ex-
cavations, though not of such large dimensions. Like these, they
usually commence a few feet from the ground, still bearing
traces of the ancient style of architecture, and are almost always
appropriated to holding pots of roses or other flowers; while these
in the palace of Persepolis, are tall enough to hold trees, would
their breadth admit them. The forms of the several great door-
ways have the same outline as the niches, and are crowned with
a similar pediment. (Plate LI. A.) Fragments of several, lay on
the ground; one of which I measured, and found it four feet
six inches in depth, and luxuriantly decorated with lotos-leaves.
In my account of the building quite to the west, (k) where
several bas-reliefs occur, representing single combats between a
human figure and a variety of animals, I then mentioned that I
should defer a more particular description of their design, till I
could compare what I saw there, with those which would present
themselves to my notice in the great structure to the east; and
I now find, that in outline, if not in dimensions, they are fac-
similies of those I see here. On the four portals (ffff) point-
ing east and west, these extraordinary encounters are displayed.
672 - COMBATS OF THE
Their scale is colossal, and the sculpture in a style of answering
magnificence. The man who contends with the animals, is
usually called the Pontiff-king; a title which, in my mind, forms
a clear text for the explanation of the whole. The first bas-
relief in which we find him on these walls, is on one of the
door-ways in the western face of the building. (Plate LII.) He
is represented as a personage of a singularly dignified mien, clad
in long draperied robes, but with the arms perfectly bare. His
hair, which is full and curled, is bound with a circlet or low
diadem; and his sweeping, pointed beard, is curled at different
heights, in the style that was worn by majesty alone. He is in
the act of grasping with his left hand, the strong single horn
that grows out of the forehead of his antagonist, while he thrusts
his short sword, or dagger, composedly, but firmly, into the
animal’s body. The creature is a monstrous combination of a
lion, in body and limbs, with the head and neck of an eagle;
and is covered with immense plumage, lying like scale-armour,
half-way down its back; representing something like our com-
mon ideas of a griffin. Though struck in a vital part, the beast
appears to be rampantly opposing the death his adversary seems
so calmly inflicting. -
The corresponding sculpture of the same hero, on the portal
to the east, differs in nothing but the quadruped ; which pre-
sents a union of forms completely strange to a European, our
most abstruse allegorising heralds, never having invented any
thing like its image to charge our shields or support them.
(Plate LIII.) The head seems to be that of a wolf; the fore-
legs and body, those of a lion; the hinder legs, from their joints,
are certainly those of an eagle; the neck is scaled, or feathered,
with a prickly mane, and it has wings which stretch nearly to
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PONTIFF KING. - 6'73
its tail. This latter appendage is extremely long, and formed
of a chain of bones, like the vertebrae of the back, and cut with
the most correct knowledge of anatomy. A crooked horn pro-
jects from the head of this monster, which is clasped as before
by the hero, while he strikes his dagger into its body. His re-
maining adversaries, exhibited on the other two doors, are of a
more natural appearance, being a horned lion, and a unicorn-
bull, which he slays with the same composed action. The calm-
ness of his air, contrasted with the firmness with which he grasps
the animals, and strikes to his aim, gives a certainty to his
object, and a sublimity to his figure, beyond anything that would
have been in the power of more elaborate action, or ornament,
to effect. From the unchanged appearance of the hero, his un-
varied mode of attack, its success, and the unaltered style of
opposition adopted by every one of the animals in the contest,
I can have no doubt that they all mean different achievements
towards one great end; and under the figure of the pontiff-king,
represent the ease with which the united powers of religion and
regal authority, may vanquish the enemies of the true faith. The
true faith, from a dateless epoch in Persian annals, until the
º conquest of the Arabs, was the Mithratic mystery; and from
the period of its belief to the present times, a similar supersti-
tion has existed with regard to enchantments and evil spirits; an
unremitted contest between Ormuzd, the light of the universe,
and Ahriman, the origin of darkness. These two emanations
acted on the mind and body of their respective followers; hence
the worshippers of the sun denounced the Sabians, or adorers
of images, to be a reprobate race, lost in darkness, and slaves
to the evil power. Under this idea, the native writers of Persia
are full of wars between their ancient kings and the deevs, or
VOL. I. 4 R
674 COMBATS BETWEEN
daemons, of the vast regions beyond the terrible heights of
Elborz ; who, in fact, were no other than the Sabian kings of
eastern Scythia, and the neighbouring princes of the same faith.
Jealous of the ambition of Darius, and abhorring the tenets of
the man he upheld as a prophet, they made constant devastating
inroads into the empire, and with merciless zeal sacrificed all
they found to their offended deities. The celebrated Deev
Sufeed, whom Roostam, the Hercules of Persia, slew, was no
other than a loyal prince of Hyrcania, whose spells of enchant-
ment were his good sword and dauntless heart; but meeting
an equal arm in that of his invincible adversary, one daemon, at
least, was proved to be vulnerable. Not content with at-
tributing to these nations the minds of evil spirits, the followers
of Zoroaster represented their persons under the imagery of
dragons, griffins, and supernatural monsters of every description;
through whole armies of which, we are told, Roostam fought
his way, before he could storm the castle of their magician
master. In after-times, when the caliphs introduced a new
creed into this part of the East, and the bulk of the people
embraced it, still their superstitions remained the same, only
changing their objects. The tribes amongst them who adhered
to the worship of the sun, became transformed in their eyes;
and to their imaginations, filled the long-vacated places of the
deevs and devils. When they were mouldered away, buried
under the ashes of their extinguished altars, the fiercer schisma-
tic found a sanctuary in their deserted caves; and deriving
the name with the station, in the person of Hassan Saheb, we
find a second Deev Sufeed inhabiting the fastnesses of Elborz.
On recollecting all these several accounts, we cannot be sur-
prised when a Persian, standing by our sides at Persepolis, points
THE PONTIFF KING AND WARIOUS MONSTERS. 675
to these bas-relief combats on the walls, and with all the poetical
enthusiasm of his country, declares them to be representations
of actual contests between Jemsheed, or Roostam, or Isfundeer,
and the emissaries of evil, in those hideous forms. Indeed, I
agree with him in every particular of his explanation, excepting
the existence of the daemon animals in “veritable substance,” to
be seen and slain. The hero of the combats, I suppose to be
intended for Darius Hystaspes, or his son and successor, Xerxes;
but the beasts he encounters, purely allegorical. In consequence
of the death of Zoroaster, who had been massacred in the great
sacerdotal city of Balk, by Argasp the Scythian king, Darius
took on himself the title of Archimagus ; and after avenging the
murder of his prophet, on the Scythian nation, we are told by .
Porphyry, that the Persian monarch commanded that the name
of that sacred distinction should be inscribed on his tomb.
Here, then, we find the pontiff-king. And in the firm grasp
with which he holds the horn of power on the heads of all the
animals, while his sword is in their hearts, we may read his
conquest over the monsters of Sabianism in Scythia, Egypt,
India, and in Babylonia, which had revolted; and whose gods,
and whose towers, he and his son reduced to “a perpetual
desolation.” Xerxes, who was thus associated with his father's
warlike achievements, had more than his own share of fame.
The Persian poets call him Isfundeer; and regarding him as one
of their darling heroes, decorate him with all the virtues that he
— did not possess. But he was a prince of daring enterprise;
he had carried the arms of Persia to more distant regions than
any of his predecessors; and glare being mistaken for glory, the
writers of the East represent him as a hero sans peur, sans re-
proche. In the midst of his victories, and the multitude of his
4 R 2
676 COMBATS OF THE
vices, for he had a sufficient number of both, he so far followed
the track of Darius, as to declare war against image-worship;
and not only the shrines of Babylonia felt his indignation, but
every country through which his conquering eagles flew. Greece,
above all, writhed under the load of her temples levelled with
the dust; while the orphans of the slain, clasping the broken
swords of their fathers in the smoking ruins, swore a signal
vengeance on the violater of their hearths and their altars.
After-times saw the voy fulfilled on the banks of the Granicus;
the blood of Xerxes flowed from the bosom of his descendant
Darius Codamanus; and Thais the Athenian, terribly visited the
devastation of her native city on the imperial walls of the capital;
before whose relics so many pilgrim footsteps have stood, pon-
dering the terrible event. Nevertheless, the Persian poets forget
all these calamities, while dwelling on the splendour of the
actions to which they were a retribution ; and ambitious of
equalling their idol Isfundeer, with his predecessors Roostam
and Kai Khoosroo, they describe even his unfortunate enterprises
in the same figurative style of vain-glory, with which we find his
progress towards the capture of the great strong-hold of Scythia,
emblazoned and recounted. He approached the city through
seven enchanted gates. The first was defended by two savage
wolves, the second by two enormous lions, the third by a dragon,
the fourth by a ghoul, or daemon-devourer of the dead, the fifth
by a griffin, the sixth by an ever-flowing catafact, the seventh
by a lake and boundless mountains: all of which marvellous
succession of impediments he overcame and surmounted, gained
the city, and killed Argasp the king.
I do not doubt, that the contemplation of the bas-relief
combats in these ruins, has assisted the romance-writers of Persia
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PONTIFF KING. * 677
in these fables; but the one throws light on the other; and
though apparently of different hues, by a mingling of beams, a
ray of truth is produced, which points clearly to the fact, that
whether this august figure of the four encounters be intended
for Darius Hystaspes or his son, the story it tells is the same;
representing a sovereign, who united in his own person the
regal with the sacerdotal influence, and who exerted both to
the destruction of impiety, in the subjugation of the powers
to which it was allied. A single horn being the emblem of
national empire, in all these combats he clutches that symbol;
shewing that he holds its still existing strength, whilst his sword
strikes at the vital principle of religious schism, whether in men
or in empires. Throughout the legends of Persia, the countries
north of Elborz are typified under the figures of the simurgh,
eagle, or griffin; and it is not improbable that the monster we
see here with the skeleton-tail, and which is very like the
martichorus of Ctesias, may be the ghoul, or flesh-eating daemon
of Isfundeer. What particular nation it may represent, I do
not pretend to guess ; though no doubt remains in my mind
that all the four beasts in these bas-reliefs are symbols of certain
Sabian countries subdued by Darius or Xerxes; and that, as the
pontiff-king, the descendant of Mithra, and the successor of his
prophet Zoroaster, the great victor is sculptured on the stone
in everlasting monument. The structure to which these co-
lossal combats are attached, appears to have been intended for
a place of public duties, next in rank to the more spacious
Chehel-minar, or hall of chief ceremonies. The symbolical
encounters just described, set forth the heroic acts of the monarch
in quelling the corrupters and disturbers of his empire; and the
bas-reliefs on the high compartments of the doors, shew the
678 SUMMARY OF THE AUTHOR'S
same royal pontiff seated in his chair of state, enjoying the
security of peace, and surrounded by a throng of people pressing
to uphold his throne. In this building I completed the catalogue
of sculptures immediately connected with the objects on the
platform ; and, going out at the eastern portal where the king
and the tailed monster keep their unwearied guard, the mountain
itself was before me. The slope commences at two hundred
feet from the side of the edifice, rising out of the surface of the
platform which had been cut from its base. .
I went forward, and ascending the height for about six hundred
feet, arrived at one of the excavated tombs, (X) which stands in
a direct line with the great building of the pontiff-king. To
describe it, would be a repetition of what I saw in the sepulchre
at Nakshi-Roustam, with only one difference, a range of small
lions running along the frieze, which crowns the bull-headed
pilasters. I have made a sketch of these animals in Plate XLIII.
(a) to shew they are not dogs; a mistake that has prevailed,
from the hasty observation of some former travellers. Another
excavation is seen more to the south, and higher up the moun-
tain. But an illness, induced by the heat and fatigue, and which
I vainly fought against, had made such progress by the time I
would have visited the second tomb, my diminished strength was
not sufficient to climb the steeper rocks. I viewed it, however,
from the distance at which I stood, and was reconciled to my
disappointment; nothing appearing different in it, from the one
I had been so fortunate as to reach.
Near the south-eastern angle of the platform, and on the
slope of the hill, I found the extensive reservoir (W) which
formed the grand fountain for the reception of the waters of the
mountain; and whence they flowed in a variety of subterraneous
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LABOURS ON THE PLATforM. *. 6'79
channels through the body of the platform to the cistern, (y)
and diverging thence again, supplied the buildings on the several
terraces. The directions of these aqueducts may be seen in the
plan, by the dotted lines. As I looked from side to side, and
up the rocks, to objects now beyond my compass, I felt the
deepest regret in being obliged to abandon my labours. My
fever increased rapidly upon me, and I found it absolutely
necessary to seek some place where I might be ill within reach
of medical assistance, and near comforts not in the power of a
poor village, or a horde of wandering Eelauts, however kind, to
afford me. Shiraz was to be our object; and, however reluctantly,
I gave orders to prepare our immediate departure. In collecting
the produce of my many days' sojourn on this most interesting
spot, I had the satisfaction of finding that I had drawn nearly
every bas-relief of consequence, had taken a faithful plan of the
place, and copied several of the cuneiform inscriptions. Those
on Plates LV., LVI. in four compartments are complete, all but
a very few lines of the last, which the state of my disorder would
not allow me to finish. My own circumstances in this respect,
may be that of many future travellers curious in ancient in-
scriptions, and, to spare them more than necessary exposure to
the sun, which is here reflected to an almost insufferable heat
by the rock and the mountain, I mention the inscriptions that
yet remain uncopied. Twelve small tablets covered with arrow-
headed characters, which are seen over the colossal animals on
the two great portals immediately after ascending the platform
stair-case from the plain. Also the lines round the niches, in
the edifice behind the Chehel-minar, and the much mutilated
writing on the stair-case (e) to the east of the building (N) on
Plate XXXII.
680 REMAINS OF THE CITY.
Ill as I was, a kind of loadstone influence attracted me to this
inexhaustible treasury of deep interest; and before I took my
final leave, I rode over the ground round the base of the great
platform, to search for relics of the city beyond its lines. Few
remain ; and the first that presented itself was a stately door-way,
or porch, standing singly on the plain to the north of the
platform, and at a short distance from the rocks. Its form
resembles the niche in Plate LI., and the inner faces of its sides
are sculptured with figures in long robes, now nearly broken
away. The second object is to the south-west of the platform,
and consists of a heap of beautiful fragments, apparently the
ruins of a temple, or some structure of architectural consequence;
which the views of Chardin and Le Brun have distinguished by
a noble and solitary column standing up from amidst its fallen
companions, like a hero over his mighty dead. But it is now
laid beside them, and the long grass alone, “waves its green
banner” above the prostrate pillars of greatness. The last stroke
which levelled this beautiful relic, was struck about fifteen years
ago by a party of the natives, for the sake of the iron which
united the stones together. My informant was the peasant who
daily attended me in my researches, and who confessed to have
been one in the act of depredation. He likewise added, that
nothing of the kind was likely to happen again, the danger
of such sacrilege being now perfectly understood. On my
inquiring what he meant, he related, that a man of their village
had lately thrown down a pillar on the great terrace, and died
the following day: but that was not all; for so many dreams
had foreshewn his fate, and so many had since warned others
of the same punishment for the same offence, from Solomon or
the devil, that no man henceforward would ever dare put a
TOMB AT THE BASE OF THE MOUNTAIN. 681
finger on the fabrics, which one or other, or both of those potent
personages had so largely assisted to erect. I was not a little
pleased with the effect of this superstition, and felt that he
would be no friend to the memorable past, who should attempt
to dispel the protecting cloud.
The next object I visited, and indeed the last of any con-
sideration, is an unfinished tomb in the base of the mountain
southward of the platform, and not far from the ruin just
described. The architectural character of this sepulchre is
precisely the same as the others above, but its situation is
singular in being so near the ground: had its lower divisions
been completed, they would have risen hardly more than four
feet from the level of the plain. I found some difficulty in
approaching it, scattered masses of rock blocking up the way;
and when I surmounted them, and stood by the half-hewn work,
which appeared as if the sculptor had just taken away his tools to
come again to-morrow, I could scarcely believe that what I looked
upon had been so left nearly two thousand years ago. The upper
compartment alone was finished, which contained the bas-relief
king, altar, and hovering figure. Magnificent as these sepultures
are, both from station and ornament, they do not give that
sublime idea of undisturbed repose, which the huge and simple
mounds of ancient Scythia impress upon the mind. Most of
them have remained from age to age, without a stone being
removed from the gigantic heaps since it was first piled there;
and, indeed, the labour of such violation must be like dig-
ging for a mine to the bottom of a hill. But a constructed
wall of a tomb, of whatever strength, whether it be cut out of
the side of a mountain, or erected on the surface of the ground,
a few feet thick, like that of Cyrus at Mourg-aub, or as many
WOL. I. 4 s
682 REMARKS ON THE TOMB.
fathom, like the Pyramids of Egypt, all have been accessible to
the ingress of avarice; and seen the remains of their illustrious
dead thrown abroad, when the riches in which they lay were made
the spoil of the violator. The account which Q. Curtius gives of
certain consecrated deposits in the tomb of Cyrus, affords some
knowledge of the temptations with which these last dwellings
of the great in those countries were stored. He relates, that
“on Alexander's return from India, he halted at Pasargadae,
where he ordered the tomb of the Persian monarch to be
opened, that he might render due honours to the ashes of so
great a man. What then was the Conqueror's surprise, when on
entering he found nothing but an old shield, and a sword, and
a simple urn ; for he had expected to see treasures of gold and of
silver; it having been reported to him, that such were the
deposits in the royal tomb. But, placing a golden crown upon
the urn, and covering it with his own mantle, he expressed
his amazement that a king so renowned should have been
buried with such bare simplicity; upon which Bagoas the
eunuch, who accompanied him, made reply: – “It is not
surprising that the sepulchres of kings should be found empty,
when we behold the houses of Satrapes glittering with treasures
stolen thence As for me, I never before saw the tomb of Cyrus;
but I have often heard it said in the presence of Darius, that it
possessed wealth to the value of a thousand talents.”
At first sight, this does not appear to agree with the gorgeous
representation given us by Strabo and Arrian, of its contents;
but when we recollect that this votive homage was paid to the
tomb, on the return of Alexander from India, at the very time
when, Plutarch tells us, Polymachus had rifled it of its treasures,
we need not be surprised either at the apparent contradiction of
VIEW FROM THE PLATFORM. 683
the descriptions, nor at the reply of Bagoas, whose shrewd
answer reconciles both, and probably gave the first hint to the
monarch of his officer's delinquency. The homely urn which
Q. Curtius mentions, must have been the stone soros, that
formerly contained the golden coffin of Cyrus, and into which
the sacred relics would be cast after their more superb covering
was rent away. - -
With a head full of these recollections, of Cyrus who had
planted this empire, and of Alexander who had torn it from its
rock, I turned from the tenantless tombs, and as desolated
metropolis. All were equally silent ; all were alike the monu-
ments of a race of heroes, whose spirits live in their actions;
and of two princes at least, whose existence was foreshewn, and
their names stampt on the imperishable tablets of Holy Writ.
The line of mountains, which rise behind the platform of
Persepolis, divide the celebrated plain of Merdasht, and stretching
nearly three farsangs to the south-east, terminate in that part of
the vale which I noticed soon after my leaving Sewan-pa-ine as
opening magnificently towards the rising sun. The left branch
of the Kur-aub (whose stream, in some of its channels, had accom-
panied us all the way from Mourg-aub,) flows through the Persepo-
litan plain, affording ample sources of irrigation to the peasantry
for many miles; till it makes its escape by falling into the Araxes,
not far from the close of the Rahmet chain of hills. Con-
sequently, the vale of Merdasht may be said to describe an
oval, pointing east and west, lying between the western and
eastern branches of the Kur-aub, and the Araxes flowing to the
south. . . . . . .
On viewing the opposite country from the great platform, the
mountains to the south-west do not appear more elevated than
4 S 2
684 DEPARTURE FROM PERSEPOLIS.
the hills immediately behind the ruins, which, though rocky,
assume rather gentle forms; but on following the chain of
southern mountains as they curve round to the north-west,
they rise into abrupt, bold, and singular shapes, some pointed,
others with table summits, and a countless succession of jagged
and rugged forms shooting up above and beyond them again,
seeming like the barriers of the world. These terrific heights
are connected westward with the great branch of the Bactiari
mountains, amongst which lie the passes Alexander found so
difficult to force, being not more bulwarked in rocks, than
defended by a resolution unto death, of their brave tribes the
Uxii. From the depths of these mountains rises the Araxes of
the south, which, after traversing their valleys, and winding
through the heart of ancient Persis, meets the Kur, or southern
Cyrus; and thence flowing onwards some farsangs, throws its aug-
mented waters into the small salt lake Bactigan, at a short distance
south-east of Shiraz. Some of the Persian writers, and amongst
others Khondemir, preserve the name of the Kur to the united
streams, till they are lost in the lake. But after-ages have
given them a second immersion, by swallowing up both the
classic titles of Araxes and Cyrus after their junction, in the
Asiatic appellation Bund–Emir. About the year 1000, the
Emir Azud-u-Doulah, vizier-governor of Persia under the caliphs
of Bagdad, amongst other beneficial acts raised a dyke on the
river near Persepolis, for the purpose of yielding water to
fertilize the land. The new work was called Bund-Emir, the
dyke of the emir, and thence the river itself gradually acquired
the same designation.
July 1st, 1818. This day I bade adieu to Persepolis, and to
a little band of hospitable Eelauts, whom I left encamped on the
BRIDGE OF KANARAH. 685
low ground before the great terrace: they had supplied me daily
with moss, a beverage of acidulated milk, during my labours
there; and the wild groups they formed, with their black tents,
simple garbs, and pastoral occupations, made a striking contrast
with the finely composed and deserted magnificence in their
rear. On leaving our lodgings in the village of Kanarah, we
took our way westward across the plain. The ground was in
excellent cultivation wherever water was procurable, and
kanaughts were sunk in a variety of places for that purpose.
Considerable tracts lay in natural pasturage, which afforded
nourishment to the numerous flocks and herds belonging to the
various parties of Eelauts who were scattered over the whole
plain. The number of villages we passed in our day's march, is
hardly credible. In some we found inhabitants, but most of
them were entirely deserted; yet, wherever the trace of a human
dwelling presented itself, the evidence of past agriculture was
also discernible in the shape of kanaughts, and the ground being
in more luxuriant produce than in other places. These vil-
lages so innumerably overspread the valley in every direction,
they must have been erected at different periods; successions
of them rising and falling with the prince or his race, who
ordered their foundation : and this seems to explain why
so little of what formed the ancient capital remains on the
ground below the platform. At about a couple of farsangs from
Kanarah, we reached the banks of the river, not having met even
the smallest stream in our way, and crossed by a stone bridge
called the Pool-Khan. It has been a fine structure of three
arches, but that to the west has fallen into such ruin, we found
only a sort of ledge to pass along, and that so narrow as to
threaten our slipping off every moment. However, I had now
686 STREAM OF ROCKNABAD.
been sufficiently accustomed to such perilous paths, not to find
them dangerous, repairs being so seldom attended to in this
country, that hardly a bridge presents itself without some gap of
dilapidation or decay. The river in this quarter, is exceedingly
rapid, pouring along through steep and rocky banks, and making
so tremendous a noise in its passage, that hearing it at a great
distance, I anticipated the sight of an immense flood, instead of
a stream hardly twenty yards across.
From the bridge to Zergoon, we at first travelled over a
barren valley, bounded by mountains of the same description;
but towards the close of our day's journey, our road turned sud-
denly due west, and soon after entered the gorge of a deep and
close dell, which led us to Zergoon, the place of our rest. The
distance from Kanarah is only seventeen measured British miles,
though estimated at six farsangs. .
July 2d. We left our menzil at four o'clock this morning,
over a bad and stony road, twisting amongst rugged hills, in a
generally south-western direction. About mid-way of our day's
journey we reached the Radarri, or custom-house, near which
we crossed an inconsiderable pass, along even worse ground
than before. Four miles further, brought us to the celebrated
stream of Rocknabad, which, half a century ago, flowed through
the paradise of Fars. It is now diminished to a mere rivulet,
still, however, retaining its singular transparency, and softness to
the taste; but the Arcadian scenery which embanked it, is
vanished away; nothing now distinguishes the spot, so often the
theme of Hafiz, but the name of the river, and the brilliancy of
its wave. In his time it ran nearer Shiraz, but neglect has
choaked its channel in that quarter. A little onward, and
through an opening in the mountains, the city itself appeared.
HENRY MARTYN. — PERSIAN BIBLE. 687
It stood in an extensive plain, at the foot of the height we were
descending, and seemed a place of great consequence and extent,
from the mosques and other lofty buildings which towered above
the flat roofs of the vast expanse of dwelling-houses. Gardens
stretched on all sides of the fortified walls; and, faint with
sickness and fatigue, I felt a momentary reviving pleasure in the
sight of a hospitable city, and the cheerful beauty of the view.
As I drew near, the image of my exemplary countryman, Henry
Martyn, rose in my thoughts, seeming to sanctify the shelter to
which I was hastening. He had approached Shiraz much about
the same season of the year, A. D. 1811, and like myself, was
gasping for life under the double pressure of an inward fire, and
outward burning sun. He dwelt there nearly a year; and on
leaving its walls, the apostle of Christianity found no cause for
“shaking off the dust of his feet” against the Mahomedan city.
The inhabitants had received, cherished, and listened to him; and
he departed thence amidst the blessings and tears of many a Per-
sian friend. Through his means, the Gospel had then found its way
into Persia; and as it appears to have been sown in kindly hearts,
the gradual effect hereafter, may be like the harvest to the
seedling. But, whatever be the issue, the liberality with which
his doctrines were permitted to be discussed, and the hospitality
with which their promulgator was received by the learned, the
nobles, and persons of all ranks, cannot but reflect lasting
honour on the government, and command our respect for the
people at large. Besides, to a person who thinks at all on these
subjects, the circumstances of the first correct Persian translation
of the Holy Scriptures being made at Shiraz, and thence put
into the royal hands, and disseminated through the empire,
cannot but give an almost prophetic emphasis to the transaction,
688 CORDIAL RECEPTION AT SHIRAZ.
as arising from the very native country, Persia Proper, of the
founder of the empire, who first bade the temple of Jerusalem
be rebuilt, who returned her sons from captivity, and who was
called by name to the divine commission.
As we descended the mountain, the bold and steep fore-
ground through which we approached the city, increased the
picturesque of its situation; and guiding our horses carefully
down the narrow and romantic path, we soon found ourselves on
the broad road of the low ground, which leads direct to the
great northern gate. The son of the late Jaffier Ali Khan came
out to meet me: he hailed me, more like an old friend than a
frangeh stranger; and received myself and people into his house
with every cordial hospitality our situation needed. My fever
had gained an alarming height; and one of my European servants,
a Russian, was in an unmanageable state, having become delirious.
Repose seemed the first point, to give some check, if possible,
to the advance of our disorder; and when too ill almost to
thank our kind host, I found cool apartments prepared, and
every comfort he could command, even to a physician, if . I
would have trusted myself and faithful follower, to Asiatic me-
dical skill. From general observation, and a little particular
instruction on the subject before I left Europe, I had gained
some knowledge of the disorders incidental to this climate, and
the safest mode of treating them; hence, I took myself and ser-
vant into my own hands, and did not spare our travelling phar-
macopeia. The nummud on which I lay, spread in a shaded
corner of my room ; with the air breathing in at the open win-
dow, and the sweet refreshment of rose-water sprinkled over
my clothes, while the flowers themselves scattered on the floor,
or gathered in pots near me, exhaled a fuller fragrance;—these
BENEVOLENCE OF JAFFIER ALI KHAN. 689
were all that I saw of Shiraz for several days after my arrival.
But the attentions of my host were so unwearied, that I never
could forget I was in the house of the near kinsman of the two
noble Persians, Jaffier Ali Khan, and Mirza Seid Ali, who had
shewn the warmest personal friendship to our “Man of God!”
for so they designated Henry Martyn. When the weather be-
came too intense for his enfeebled frame to bear the extreme
heat of the city, Jaffier Ali Khan pitched a tent for him in a
most delightful garden beyond the walls, where he pursued his
Asiatic translations of the Scriptures; or sometimes in the cool
of the evening, he sat under the shade of an orange-tree, by the
side of a clear stream, holding that style of conversation with
the two admirable brothers, which caused their pious guest to say,
“That the bed of roses on which he reclined, and the notes of the
nightingales which warbled above him, were not so sweet as
such discourse from Persian lips.” The land in which he so
expressed himself, is indeed that of the “bulbul and the rose;”
the poet Hafiz having sung of their charms till he identified
their names with that of his native city. . . -
To Shiraz, like most other towns of the empire, many dif-
ferent periods are assigned for its foundation. Some Asiatic
authors date it so far back as to the Mahabad kings; a race so
sunk in the depths of time, that if they existed at all, it must
have been before the flood. Others say, it was built by Kaiomurs,
the beginner of the Paishdadian line, a grandson of Noah; and
in that case, Shiraz would have been one generation anterior to
Babel itself. But these are dreams, which have literally no
foundation; and though it be highly probable that so fine a
situation for a city would not be left long unoccupied, after that
part of the East became spread with inhabitants; yet, as no
VOL. I. 4 T
690 - SHIRAZ.
remains can be traced in or near its site, like those of Babylon
or Nineveh, so early an origin must be denied ; though, possibly,
we might find it to have been the Corra of Ptolemy. It is
situated in latitude 29° 33' 55", and is now the capital of the
province of Fars, formerly the kingdom of Persia-Proper; but
which, in earliest time, bore the name of Elam, from the eldest
son of Shem, whose descendants were its first people. It was
also called Paras: hence the Persis, and Persia, of the classic
authors; but the natives themselves do not recognise it by any
of those appellations; and in the time of Cyrus it was known by
that of Iran ; which name was afterwards extended to the whole
empire when he became its master. This latter circumstance
might support Xenophon's account of the royal birth of Cyrus,
against the legend of Herodotus, who represents him as the son
of a mere Persian nobleman. Had his paternal origin been so
comparatively low, it seems hardly probable that when he be-
came sovereign of the more extensive country of the Medes
through the bequeathment of his mother's brother, he would not
rather have distinguished his maternal descent, by giving its
nobler name to the united kingdoms, than swallow up the
greater in the less; and also bestow an appellation, which could
only remind the proud monarchs of the East, that their for-
midable rival was the son of a petty lord in an only minor king-
dom. But when we regard Cambyses as the king of Iran, and
his son, the mighty conqueror who endowed his royal ally of
Media with territories on all sides; then Iran becomes of conse-
quence in its prince, and the kingdom of his natural inheritance
very properly gives its name to the empire of which he is the
, acknowledged founder. -
Shiraz, which has now usurped the station of Persepolis, as
SHIRAZ. 691
capital of this part of the country, bears a proportionate in-
feriority to the grandeur of the ancient metropolis, with the
difference in national rank between a kingdom and a province,
It stands in a fine valley, about ten or twelve miles wide, and
twenty-four in length, and has rather a pleasant than an imposing
appearance. . -
Several native writers of less ambition than those lately referred
to, arrogate no higher antiquity for the foundation of the town,
than the first century of the Hegira; and Aben Haukel, who
decidedly calls it a “modern city,” dates its origin to Mahmed
ben al Cassem Okail. It did not receive walls of strength till
several hundred years afterwards, when we find that Azud-u-
Doulah, the magnificent vizier who erected the dyke on the
Araxes, rendered Shiraz a station of important consequence.
But its time of greatest aggrandizement was under the celebrated
Kerim Khan, who made it the seat of his empire about the
middle of the last century, embellished it with public buildings
and gardens, filled his courts with learned men, and girded the
city with increased fortifications. But after the struggle for
empire, between his descendants and the ancestors of the present
royal family, came to an end in favour of the latter, when Aga
Mahomed Khan took possession of the town, he levelled its walls
with the ground; and committed so many extended ravages,
that little now remains there of the Arcadia, whose shade blooms
in the page of Hafiz; and which, a few centuries before, even
Timour the Tartar had spared for the sake of the poet and his
song. It is related, that when that conqueror entered Shiraz,
red with the blood of Ispahan, in the sweeping fury of his
humour he sent for Hafiz, who was in the town, and demanded
how he dared to dispose of two of the Tartar's richest cities,
4 T 2
692 - SHIRAZ.
Samarcand and Bakhorah; which, in an amatory stanza, he had
said he would give for the mole on his mistress's cheek. —“Can
the gifts of Hafiz ever impoverish Timour !” was the reply;
which changed the monarch's indignation into favour, and pro-
duced reward instead of punishment.
About three hundred years after this event, Kerim Khan raised
tombs over the remains of this poet, who was considered the
Anacreon of Persia, and those of Sadi, its Socrates in verse. They
were planted with trees, and a college of holy men lodged in the
boundary to protect the honoured shrines. But a solitary cypress
or two, are now all that mark the inclosure of the poet; and
scarce a tree of any height shows itself in the immediate vicinity
of the town. At some little distance, the Bagh-i-Jehun, or garden
of Kerim Khan, and the more modern plantations of Tackt-i-
Kujar, vary the shadeless monotony of the plain. The city itself
differs little from most other capitals of provinces in the empire.
The old walls, which conquest threw down, were ten feet in
thickness, of a corresponding height, and protected by a ditch of
thirty feet in depth: but the new ones, with which Aga Mahomed
Khan replaced them, boast neither the breadth nor elevation of
those which are no more. These are of brick, with towers, and
five or six gates opening into the plain. -
The present governor, Hassan Ali Mirza, is a son of the king,
and a very young man. His jurisdiction extends northward to
Yezdikhast, and southward, along the shores of the gulf to
Bushire; but its influence is not very powerful in either of these
places, nor even at Shiraz itself. His youth inclines him more to
the pleasures of his anderoon than to the toils of state; and when
the prince sleeps in the arms of luxury, it can be no subject of
wonder, that his ministers should only wake to similar enjoyment.
GOVERNMENT OF SHIRAZ. 693
Every thing within the town seems neglected: the bazars and
maidans falling into ruins ; the streets choaked with dirt, and
mouldered heaps of unrepaired houses, and the lower orders
who infest them, squalid and insolent; while the actual poor
crawl out of their dens in a state of rags and wretchedness which
no pen can describe. How different is this scene from one that
occurred in the same province many centuries ago “And his
friend said to Cyrus, But when will you adorn yourself? and he
answered, I am already adorned in adorning my people !” -
One of the most material instances of public neglect, and
which presses immediately on the attention, is the state of
the water; which is so foul as to injure the health of the in-
habitants, and so loathsome as to stink with putrefaction. No
excuse can be offered on the part of the magistrates for the
sufferance of so intolerable a beverage for the people; the same
sources remaining, which in former years provided wholesome
and beautiful water for every use. The spring at the tomb of
Sadi is still ready to pour its stream through proper channels
into the town ; and the limpid rills of the Rocknabad, once more
collected from the scattering offices of irrigation, might again
visit the walls of Shiraz, and sparkle on the boards of its people.
I.enquired whether the water which at present supplies the town,
is always in so bad a state; and was answered in the affirmative;
cooler weather producing it more plentifully, but making no change
in the quality. Notwithstanding this information, I cannot believe
that the excessive heat of the summer does not increase its cor-
ruption. Since my arrival, the thermometer, at any time of the
day, has seldom fallen below 96° in the shade, or under 80° at
night. But while Captain Franklin was here, he had the
694 TOMB OF HAFIz.
advantage of a milder atmosphere, the average of the thermo-
meter being then at 78° during the day, and 62° at night. -
At little more than a mile from the Ispahan gate, appears a
square inclosure, within which stands the tomb of Hafiz, and in
whose vicinity, in the days of the Persian Anacreon, rose the gay
and romantic suburb of Mosella. From the delightful descrip-
tions given of the spot by Koempfer, Franklin, and others, I
expected to find more than vestiges of the deep shade of tributary
trees, which for so many years had hung an unseared leaf over
his urn, seeming to brighten in the unfading fame they so
beautifully emblemed. Whatever might have been the ravages
of war elsewhere, or the depredations of cupidity, or the ruinous
effects of neglect, I could not doubt that the national pride of
the Persians, uniting with their known enthusiasm for poetry,
would preserve the spot in all its honours, which contained the
remains of their favourite bard. But how was I disappointed —
The ground, which former reverence had devoted to his ashes
alone, is covered with promiscuous graves; and the tomb of
white marble erected by Kerim Khan, and closely written over
with extracts from the works of the poet, as his noblest in-
scription, stands otherwise unmarked in the midst of them. The
fine copy of his poems, which were fastened to the shrine, is no
longer to be seen ; and the trees, so luxuriant a few years ago,
and whose ancient boughs had so often dropped the tears of
Spring on the cold bosom of her lover beneath, – they too were
gone. No creature attended, to point out the sacred grave to
the enquiring stranger; no parties of enthusiasts now appeared,
as heretofore, to boast the birth-place of their poet, while they
sung his praises in the words of his own unequalled verse. A
SHEIK SADI. 695
few lines from that song will shew what this side of the city was
in the day of his veneration. .
“Boy, give me wine, for Paradise does not boast such lovely
banks as those of Rocknabad, nor such groves as the high-
scented fragrance of the bowers.of Mosella.”
But another poet has said, “Though the bowers of Love grew
on its banks, and the sweet song of Hafiz kept time with the
nightingale in the rose, the summer is past, and all things are
changed. The pleasant arbour is sought, but not found; the
voice of the bird and of the minstrel have ceased ; a burning sum
beats on the unsheltered stream, which runs sobbing away; like a
misused orphan, not only deprived of the home of its parent,
but driven from its weeping position near his grave.”
The change is, indeed, what these lines describe; the clear
and refreshing stream of Rocknabad, impeded by the accumu-
lated consequences of utter neglect, has abandoned its wonted
course; and all else, which before marked the place, being in
like manner rent or mouldered away; in a short time even the
stone that tells the poet's name must be defaced, and nothing
remain to distinguish his grave, from that of the rudest clod of
earth encumbering his invaded cemetery. -
The last resting-place of Sheik Sadi, the second boast of Shiraz,
was my next object. The import of his verses particularly com-
mand reverence to the character of the poet; though some
writers of the noblest strains, in our own country, put “so
strange a face on their own perfection,” as to profess that the
purpose of poetry is to amuse rather than to instruct. But nei-
ther Homer, nor Virgil, Dante, Tasso, Milton, nor any of that
glorious school of the lyre, shewed themselves of this opinion.
They speak the language of the gods, because the words they use
696 GRAVE OF SHEIK SADI.
are not more mellifluous than the spirit they breathe is powerful
to inspire virtue, and render it delightful. I am happy to be
supported in this conviction of “the high purposes” of poetry,
by Sir William Malcolm, who, in writing on the same subject,
describes the Sheik Sadi as a rare union of genius, learning,
heroic principle, and tender sentiment. “His tales,” our author
observes, “are appropriate to almost every event that can occur,
conveying the most useful lessons; and his maxims have acquired
an authority over his countrymen that render them almost equal
to laws; for instance, — -
“Alas! for him who is gone, and has done no work: the
trumpet of march has sounded, and his burthen was not bound
on 1’’ º
And again : — .
“Be merciful, and thou shalt conquer without an army : Seize
the hearts of the world, and be acknowledged its legitimate
sovereign ſ” • ,
For my part, I should call these as true trumpets of the god,
as that which Tyrtaeus blew to the same end. But whatever in-
fluence the strains of the poet may yet have on the minds of his
countrymen, it certainly does not point to care of his remains.
In following the line of mountains that bound the valley of
Shiraz to the north-east, and riding along their base for an ex-
tent of three miles, the country presented many lovely views,
worthy the pen of him, whose grave I was journeying to visit.
At the end of three miles we approached a narrow opening into
the hills, which leads to a variety of little romantic dells, partially
cultivated, and studded with villages. At a short distance from
the entrance of the opening stands the object I came to seek:
but it presented even a more forlorn appearance than the burying-
TOMB OF. S.H.EIK SADI. 697
place of Hafiz. There, a cypress or two lingered near the spot,
and the decaying towers of the mosque of Shah Mirza Hamza, in
its neighbourhood, bespoke some fellowship in neglect, as well
as in former reverence. Here, a solitary square structure, per-
fectly bare without, and within planted with a few low shrubs
and vegetables, was opened to me as the garden and sepulchre of
the venerable Sadi. Three or four miserable wretches, who crept
out from the adjacent rocks, are the owners of this humble sub-
stitute for “the olive and the bay,” planted by Kerim Khan.
In one corner of the quadrangle, in a sort of vaulted chamber,
they shewed me a small marble sarcophagus, which covered the
bones of the poet. Neither the world's pomps nor contempts
could sweeten nor imbitter his repose; but, to the spectator, the
desolation that reigned there would have been more than melan-
choly, if “the surcease of this life trammelled up the conse-
quence; and the be all, was to end all.” The volume of his
works, which had been fastened to his tomb like those of Hafiz,
was not even to be heard of; and, so deserted is the spot, no
public burying-ground calling people towards it, few others than
strangers, and those foreigners, ever think of visiting the shrine
of Sadi. - º
When returned to the outside of the building, I was shewn
into a vaulted apartment, under the level of the ground; and
descending again, about twenty or thirty steps, they led me to
the brink of a stream, clear as crystal; and so contrived as to
flow over a deepened basin in the rock, yet containing some of
the finny race, whose ancestors the poet of tenderest humanities
had protected in this his grotto of meditation. It was his fa-
vourite spot of retirement; and, reclining by the cool wave, he
vo L. I. 4 U
* * *
698 REMAINS NEAR SHIRAZ.
is said to have composed some of his most beautiful poems.
Starving as the poor people look who shelter near his remains,
they hold the fish his name has appropriated, in too sacred a light
ever to draw one from its native fountain. And this, perhaps, is
all the respect still shewn to the memory of Sheik Sadi.
On the summit of the mountain, near the tomb, we see the
ruins of a fortress, called Kala Bendar. It is said to have been
the work of one of the Seljukian kings of Persia; many of whom,
though of Tartar origin, shewed an extraordinary respect to liter-
ature; and governed by its proper consequents, justice and
mercy. g
The only remarkable object amongst the ruins is a well of
an amazing depth, which formerly supplied the castle with
water. Continuing along the same side of the valley, to the
distance of nearly four miles, we arrived at the jutting points
of several lofty rocks, and found the remains of another edifice;
but this claimed the age, with the classic elegance, of those at
Persepolis. It appears to have been a square of thirty feet,
with a portal in each face, three of which are standing. Their
sides are sculptured with figures similar to those I have already
drawn (Plate XLVII.) in Median robes; some carrying small
vessels in one hand, and a piece of linen in the other; and
the rest bearing little pails of aromatic gums for the incense-
stands. The lintels of the doors are the same with those of
Chehel-minar, charged with lotos-leaves, and worked with an
admirable skill. The whole fabric is of Persepolitan stone; very
beautiful fragments of which lay all over the ground, in the
broken shapes of architraves, friezes, &c. A little onward, on
the same height, the remains of several very strong walls and
ANCIENT STRUCTURE NEAR SHIRAZ. 699
towers stretch a considerable way along the rocks, evidently the
relics of some old bulwark, but of a much posterior age to
the graceful edifice in its neighbourhood. -
Some Europeans have thought, and many of the Persians
assert, that the finely sculptured remains just described, with the
principal parts of Shiraz, and all structures of consequence in its
vicinity, have been built out of the ruins of the ancient capital.
During all my searches within and without the new city, I could
not find any thing to impress me with this idea: not a fragment
of Persepolitan work, or its marble, presented itself in wall
or tower, or any where else, excepting the sculptured edifice
on the height; and that is too perfect in plan, construction, and
finishing, to have been a compilation of old materials, or the
erection of any other than the master-hands which raised the
palaces of Darius. It appears to have been always insulated.
Whilst its own form and extent are distinctly marked by the
closely-set slabs of marble which form the floor, and the still ex-
isting foundations of all its four walls, there is no trace whatever
of any other building of the same age having been in its neigh-
bourhood. The people about give it the same title which the
natives of Mourg-aub have bestowed on the tomb of Cyrus,
calling it the tomb of Madré-i-Sulieman; a presumptive proof,
in my mind, even if this were a sepulchre, that the royal lady
lies in neither of them. But this building has no resemblance
to any style of tomb in this country. It is too small for a
dwelling-place answerable to the splendour of its architecture;
and, from the character of its bas-reliefs, I should be inclined to
suppose it the remains of a little temple. The figures on the
portals are all bearing objects connected with religious oblation;
the chalice, and the vessel of choice gums for the incense.
4 U 2
700 | THE STRUCTURE PROBABLY A TEMPLE.
That such has always been considered by the natives, the design
of these groups, may be seen from an account which the author
of the Zeenut-ul-Mujalis gives of similar bas-reliefs at Persepolis.
He says, “There are several figures on the sculpture, carrying
urns, in which the worshipper burnt benjamin while adoring the
sun.” This, then, might have been a place of prayer for the in-
habitants of villages; the priest officiating within, on his altar of
fire, while the people worshipped without, before the large open
portals, in the manner that Prideaux describes to have been a
custom adopted by the Jews on their return to the Holy Land
after the Babylonian captivity. He mentions, supported by a nu-
merous list of authorities, that the people who lived at too great a
distance from Jerusalem to resort thither for ordinary worship,
built courts for themselves, in imitation of that in the temple,
where the laity prayed, while the priest in the sanctum performed
his oblations; and to these, in after-times, was given the name
of Proseuchae. Synagogues appear to have been the churches of
cities; while these were the oratories of some extensive country
district; and, being open at the top, surrounded with trees, and
usually erected on hills, it is probable they were the high places,
which we sometimes find mentioned in the Old Testament
without terms of disapprobation; the high place, or grove, In Ot
making an offence, unless an idol be worshipped there.
It is more than curious to trace, in these resembling customs,
the original affinity of these earliest nations of mankind; to
see, that however some, like the Prodigal Son, had strayed
from their fathers' house and altars, a memory was yet left
in every bosom, of the parent land; of the Sanctuary in which
they worshipped; of the God whom they adored. Though both
Herodotus and Strabo, as I have noticed before, in some parts of
FHISTORICAL REMARKS. '701
their writings, do not allow that temples or altars were in use
with the Persians, yet, in other places, they so completely
contradict themselves in this assertion, I can have no doubt
that what is received as a general remark, was intended by them
to represent only a very distant anterior period. Strabo, in
particular, gives the details of a sacrifice performed by the
Pyrethi (the Magi) in Cappadocia, then a province of Persia,
where both an altar and a temple are described; and the ques-
tion is, whence would they derive such rites, if not from the
Sovereign Pontiff of the empire? Indeed, it seems altogether
absurd to ascribe the first temples in Persia to the introduction
of Zoroaster; the situation of the country, between nations
which, even now, shew the remains of religious structures, built
from the earliest records of mankind, makes the proposition
absolutely untenable. That he altered, and improved, may easily
be credited; but it does not appear reasonably possible that
three successive princes, who had reigned over the whole of
known Asia, and were men of enterprise and ambitious taste
besides, should not have appreciated the use and grandeur of
al, temple, till a religious recluse from the caves of Alborz
brought forth plans to rival Greece and Egypt. That there
was a progress in the style of these erections, is not to be
doubted; but, according to circumstances, the customs of every
age might be retained, and at times exhibited; whether to
sacrifice on the high platform of the unsheltered mountain, like
Cyrus at Pasargadae, when the empire was his temple, and
a whole people its congregation; or on the pillared altars of the
Magi, where sometimes a sculptured wall veiled the sacred
element from profane gaze, or a beamed roof guarded it from
the casualties of the weather. All may fairly be supposed to
702 ARCHITECTURE OF PERSIA.
have existed in very early days; man gradually assimilating the
places of his worship to the progressive stages of his own abode;
from the open plain to the covert of trees, to the tent and taber-
nacle, to the house of stone, and the temple of God. We have
seen sufficient in the architectural remains of ancient Persia,
to discern some distant resemblances between the style and
taste of their structures, with those of Egypt, India, and Judea;
but we have to lament, that the utter demolition of all outline
of building, or fragment of ornament, on the heaps of Nineveh
and Babylon, totally deprives us, not only of the foundation-
stone of architecture, but of those after-links which would
have formed a perfect chain in the history of the art, from the
building of Babel to the temples of the East, and thence onward
to those of Greece and Rome. f
Some writers attribute the first introduction of the semicir-
cular arch into the architecture of Persia by Zoroaster; but it
certainly is not to be found in any of the apparently most
ancient edifices, if I except the two stone altars at Nakshi-
Roustam. Neither does it occur in any of the colossal struc-
tures of Upper Egypt; the roofs of the buildings, and the
lintels of the doors, being all perfectly straight. Hence, if the
information respecting the adoption of the arch by the Magian
sage be correct, the absence of it in all these Persepolitan buildings
must prove their greater antiquity. But I do not think that the
semicircle was used in Persian edifices, till after the Macedonian
invasion ; it then gradually gained ground, till the accession of
the Sassanian dynasty spread it out into domes for palaces and
temples. The conquest of the Arabs changed its form again,
and run it up into all the pyramidal undulations of the Saracenic
arch. Then appeared arcades, like avenues of trees cut in
©
, ARCHITECTURE OF PERSIA, '703
Stone, or elevated in fantastic brick-work; and rich varieties of
arabesque friezes, with cupolas raised high into the air, without
the aid of frames, or almost any scaffolding. The dome at
Sultanea is one of the most perfect specimens of this superb
Asiatic taste. Besides the lightness of its forms, the usual
paintings and gilding which decorate their parts, give it an ex-
tremely gay effect; very different from the heavy Saxon arch of
our ancestors, or the sober grace of the simple Gothic; both of
which, in our cathedrals, fill the spectator with gravity and awe.
Any attempt to analyse the ancient Persian architecture, from
the relics that exist, and thence deduce its origin, would now be
a vain task. I observed, in a former part of my journal, that in
some particulars it resembles the styles of Egypt and India; but in
most respects its character is so totally dissimilar, that the ruins
of Persepolis, as long as they stand, are likely to remain an
unique specimen of a beautiful stage in the art, the foundations
of which can no longer be traced. And the oblivion which has
fallen over every monument of the Assyrian empire seems to me
to have formed this impassable chasm in the analysis of the
subject. But while following the track wherever it is visible,
one remark forcibly recurs; the prodigious inequality between
the moral and political progress of all these nations, and the
exquisite degree of refinement to which they brought the arts.
With regard to masonry and sculpture, we only imitate what
they invented; no chaptrel combinations modern times have
attempted, ever having equalled the beautiful order of Corinth.
And what the acanthus did for Greece, when it met the eye of
genius, the lotos of the Nile and the Euphrates had produced,
ages before, for Egypt and Assyria. By what we have already
seen of its use in the capitals and friezes of Persepolis, we may
'704 ARCHITECTURE OF PERSIA.
venture to conclude that it was the germ whence, were the
means extant, we might trace every ramification of that branch
of the art, throughout the earliest nations of Cush and Elam. To
the former, we might even ascribe the architectural glories of
the temple of Jerusalem, Solomon ** having received his chief
workmen from Tyre; and the Tyrians being a people bordering
on the ancient Assyrian empire, probably they learnt their art
of the masters in Nineveh ; in the same way that “Hiram, the
widow's son of the tribe of Naphtali,” acquired his knowledge in
the capital of the Phoenician king. From this very school of
Hiram, Cadmus and his followers emigrated; and we can hardly
doubt, that with the letters and sciences of his country, he
would bestow some principles of its architecture on the people of
Greece. Herodotus, speaking of Ecbatana, the capital of the
Medes, while he gives an interesting detail of its splendour,
ascribes its foundation to Dejoces, the Arphaxad of Scripture,
who reigned about seven hundred years before the Christian
era. Other writers honour that city with a little older date, sup-
posing it to have been a work of Arbaces, who, about a century
antecedent to the election of Dejoces, had assisted to overthrow
the great Assyrian empire; and dividing it betwixt himself and
Belesis, governor of Babylon, so far from doing any thing extra-
ordinary at that time for Ecbatana, (where, doubtless, he had
resided during his delegated power,) as soon as he took posses-
sion of his moiety of the spoil, and thence became king of
Assyria, he removed to Nineveh; and the provincial capital, of
course, fell into comparative neglect. This Arbaces is Sup-
posed to be the Tiglath-Pileser of Scripture, who first carried the
tribes into captivity, and scattered them amongst the cities of
Media. When that country was released from the yoke of
WALLEY OF SHIRAZ. f '705
Assyria, and became a distinct kingdom of itself under Dejoces,
Ecbatana revived; the new sovereign repaired, and so enlarged
it, as almost to merit the title of its founder, and fixed his re-
sidence there during a reign of half a century. But when We.
recollect, that upwards of four hundred years before the exist-
ence of these two princes, Solomon's temple and palaces were
erected under the auspices of a people dependent on the As-
syrians, who had then been lords of Asia for nearly ten cen-
turies, can we doubt Ecbatana having been a city of much older
date than either Dejoces or Arbaces. Media, as a province
of Assyria, would always need a governor; and here, probably,
was his capital from the earliest times. These reflections stimu-
lated my desire to visit Ecbatana, to compare what I might see
there with the objects of my observation at Persepolis. In
drawing a parallel between the architectural plans and ornaments
of the latter place, with those so particularly noted in the book
of Kings, of Solomon's temple and palace, their pillars, double
capitals, carved knops, open flowers, and palm-trees, chapiters of
lily-work, and supports of various sorts in the shapes of lions,
oxen, and winged figures, the resemblance appears so striking, I
cannot but assign them the same origin; and believe, in addition,
that were the mounds of Babylon and Nineveh to yield up their
buried treasures, we should not only recover the lost links in
the descent of architecture, but find even a nearer affinity be-
tween their principles and the remains at Persepolis, than that
which connects the buildings of modern Europe with the taste
of ancient Greece and Rome. - . .
On leaving the little Persepolitan temple, which commands a
beautiful view over the adjacent country, we descended into the
- . . . . . . . . . . 4 x * *
706 BAS-RELIEFS.
valley; and following the foot of the mountain for two miles
farther, arrived at a clear and copious spring, the ripple and
lucidity of which, refreshing the parched and exhausted senses
after so unsheltered a heat, might well excuse the dream of a ce-
k-stial nymph in the fountain, and that her smile shone in the
glancing waters. Just over this delightful spring, a range of
sculptures presented themselves, cut in the rock. On drawing
near, I found them to have been works of the Sassanian age, but
much inferior to those at Nakshi-Roustam. Some of these are
little more than commencements of their subjects. The most
finished stands first for observation, (Plate LVII.) and consists of
two figures; one is a woman of a graceful outline, clothed in
drapery of peculiar lightness and delicacy; a large veil, modestly
held by her left hand, envelops her figure, while she stretches out
the right towards her companion. He is dressed in the royal style
of the formerly described Sassanian bas-reliefs, but without the
customary flowing badges of kingly rank: and presents her
with something like a flower.
The remainder of the range comprises two more sculptures,
both containing effigies of a king with a profusion of curls, the
globular crown, a collar, and ear-rings; but the whole so ill
executed, I did not deem them worth the further risk of stop-
ping, under the fierce sun, to sketch their contents. My guides
told me there were no more bas-reliefs in the valley; and turning
from these with some disappointment, my attention was next,”
engaged by the valley itself; the country appeared in higher
cultivation here than nearer Shiraz; stretching on to the east,
in vineyard, harvest, and village scenery. The grapes grow to
a size and fulness hardly to be matched in other climates; and
the juice expressed from them produces the celebrated wine of
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SHIRAZ WINE. 707
the East, called Shiraz; the Pierian spring of Hafiz, the dele.
terious draught which maddened so many native princes to the
most horrible crimes, and probably the very wine which inflamed
the wild passions of Alexander to set fire to the metropolis of
the empire he had so lately won. But whatever may have been
the properties of the juice in those days, and the skill of the
vintner in succeeding ones, since the accession of the present
royal family, who are particularly strict in obeying the ordinances
of their prophet, the whole manufacture has fallen into dis-
repute. The culture of the vine itself is comparatively neglected;
the sorting of the fruit, a delicacy seldom attended to ; and the
apparatus used in the compression, fermentation, &c. of the
juice, is on so confined a scale that only small quantities of the
esteemed flavour are obtained. Indeed no wine, under one
name, possesses such variety of quality; every gradation, from
a liquid clear as the most brilliant topaz, to a sour and muddy
syrup. When good, the taste should be a little sweet, accom-
panied with the flavour of dry Madeira, to which, when old, it is
not at all inferior. The Armenians of the district are the only
persons who venture the manufacture; but it is always done in
secret, sold in secret, and drank so secretly, that a man can
hardly retire to any place alone, without being suspected of going
to taste the forbidden cup. For these violations of the law, no
dispensing power exists amongst the indulgences of the Koran;
but with regard to breaches of the fasts, the Prophet has been
more gracious; and it is curious to observe how some of his
disciples insinuate themselves within the letter of his grant,
while in their hearts they are conscious of having no real claim
on the spirit of its indulgence. -
4 x 2
’708 FAST OF RAMAZAN.
The fast of Ramazan occurred during my visit to Shiraz,
which afforded me several instances amongst my own Persian
attendants of the laxity of principle just described. A strict
observance of this month of abstinence, is enjoined as a most
sacred duty, in commemoration of God having sent down the
Koran from heaven to earth at that season of the year; during
its continuance, every true believer must refrain, from day-break
till sunset, from eating or drinking; none being in any way ex-
empted from this obligation, excepting sick persons, women who
are nurses, and persons encountering the extraordinary fatigue of
necessary travelling. Some observe the fast so religiously as never
to touch their lips with any liquid from sunrise to sunset; an
abstinence amounting to almost intolerable pain, in this ex-
tremely hot weather. Persons employed in laborious works are
permitted to bathe their parched mouths with a little water;
but if a drop glides into their throats, the fast is broken for that
day, and an answering vigil must repair the breach. The indul-
gence to travellers allows them to defer the rite till the journey
is completed, and some of my attendants were not backward in
seizing the privilege. They chose to construe the shortest morn-
ing excursion into the travel of a day; and, accordingly, lost no
time in regaling themselves with bread, water-melons, and ka-
liouns. Those who so promptly find excuses for slipping the
bonds which gall them, are not likely to volunteer a re-entrance,
while there is risk of much pain in the yoke; but scrupulous
observers of the fast frequently endure the utmost personal
misery. The day, at present, (about the middle of July,) is fif-
teen hours long, and the atmosphere like a furnace. Nourish-
ment of no kind must touch the devotees' lips during all that
FERTILITY OF COUNTRY NEAR SHIRAZ. *709
while; and before the whole month is past, many fall sacrifices
to the rigour of their faith; when this happens, the surviving
relations rejoice over them, believing that so dying they go
directly into the presence of the Prophet, and have a place at
his side. According to the Mahomedan regulation of the year,
the Ramazan is a movable fast; and besides its general sanctifi-
cation to Mahomed himself, the twenty-first of the month is
held here with peculiar severity, watching, and prayer, in memory
of the death of their favourite Ali. The twenty-third, par-
ticularly, is noted as the anniversary of the very day in which
the angel Gabriel brought the sacred book to the founder of the
faith; and, when the month closes, joy breaks out “like the full
moon;” feasting, revelling, and mutual congratulations filling the
whole country. -
The present summer has been unusually hot, and the feverish
state of my frame made me feel it more so; but the inhabitants
of this beautiful vale told me, that Shiraz is generally esteemed
the most moderate climate in the southern division of the em-
pire; that its summer noons may be warmer than is pleasant,
but the mornings and evenings are delightful; but when Sep-
tember commences, the weather becomes heavenly; and continues,
until the end of November, with a perfectly serene atmosphere,
of a most balmy and agreeable temperature; and a sky whose
soft hues are reflected from every object. The earth is covered
with the gathered harvest, flowers, and fruits; melons, peaches,
pears, nectarines, cherries, grapes, pomegranates; in short, all
is a garden abundant in sweets and refreshment. The vales of
Ouroomia, and of Salmos, which lie north-west of Tabreez, are
the only places in the empire that compare with Shiraz and its
autumnal bounties. And, thus fortunate in the fruits of the
710 - LUXURIANCE OF SHIRAZ.
earth, it possesses the additional attraction of giving birth to
the most beautiful women in Persia; damsels, who are described
with eyes brighter than the antelope's; hair clustering like their
own dark grapes; and forms fairer and sweeter than the virgin
rose. Indeed, all here seems to partake of their musky breath;
the place being celebrated for the growth of every flower that
yields perfume by extract. The rose-water of Shiraz is particularly
fine and abundant; and so profusely scattered are every species
of the most costly scents, the otto of rose is scarcely deemed
a perfume of any value.
This luxuriant account of the valley of Hafiz may appear con-
tradictory to my first impression, on approaching it from the
hills; but anticipating the umbrageous avenues, which, in former
years, led in different directions to the city, and seeing only a
wide unshaded expanse immediately around its walls, the dis-
appointment struck me with an idea of comparative nakedness.
But though the groves of chenar, cypress, and other lofty trees,
have disappeared ; the humbler, and not less useful fruit-trees,
with thickets of flowering shrubs, canopy the earth in abundance.
On this bed of delicious verdure, the eye may revel all along the
valley,’ when looking down from the adjacent heights. But it
was long before I enjoyed it, or any part of the scenes I have
been describing. The intensity of my fever had confined me to
my quarters a tedious time after my arrival; and some of my
people were in even a worse state than myself. The disorder
was bilious, and for many days bore a very alarming aspect;
however, at the end of three weeks, I ventured to remount my
horse, to make the excursions I have lately described, and to
pay my personal compliments to his Royal Highness the Prince-
governor of the province, Hassan Ali Mirza. Like all the sons,
HASSAN ALI MIRZA. 711
I have yet seen of Futteh Ali Shah, he is extremely handsome,
with a similar grace of manner, and the affability which so par-
ticularly charms in princes. Perhaps there is no other class of
human beings in the world, who can possess that charm; it
belongs so entirely to their pre-eminent station when filled by
an amiable mind. Conscious of holding the highest rank by an
unassailable right, there is no motive for assuming a reserved
loftiness of air, to secure the respect which no person has it in his
power to dispute. The dignity of a mere nobleman is generally
a little more or less stately, accordingly as he feels it to be on the
defensive ; but the dignity of a prince, needing no factitious lines
of separation, is shown in the frankness of an affability too
graciously and gracefully managed to be felt as designed conde-
scension. On these principles, the manners of a usurper of any
kind have always the general character of haughtiness, reserve,
and rigour; right of possession, right conduct, and the right side
of an argument, all naturally bearing the same aspect of openness,
gentleness, and liberality. The birth-right of Hassan Ali Mirza
gave him this ineffable dignity, in common with his brothers;
and a similar courtesy of disposition made it equally amiable.
The ceremony of my presentation here, was much the same as
that which conducted me to the presence at Tabreez and Teheran;
the most conspicuous difference being the introduction of coffee
and kaliouns. When compared with those two courts, the
grandeur of this falls much in shadow ; or, probably, my
eyes had been too lately filled with the dazzling splendours
of the Hesht-beheste at Ispahan, and the remains of classic
magnificence at Persepolis, to discern the pretensions of the
palace at Shiraz. The room of audience is on the customary
plan, decorated with white marble, gilding, and fantastic orna-
712 ... 'COURT OF SHIRAZ.
ments, intermixed with royal portraits and hunting-pieces; and
being as usual open in front, from the ceiling to the floor,
commands a pleasant view of some fine chenar-trees, yet left of
those which so abundantly adorned the courts of Kerim Khan.
The ground beneath them is agreeably cooled by several marble
fountains, standing amidst all the varied flowers which “weave
the rich mantle of resplendent June.” Indeed, where this
loveliest tapestry of nature is present, the refreshed and delighted
eye wishes no other from the hand of man. .
The palace was built by Kerim Khan ; and being surrounded
by an extensive embattled enclosure, forms the citadel, also, of
the place. On passing into the great gate of the enclosure, we
enter a square, or maidan, planted with a range of efficient
artillery, manned and served by a party of Russian soldiers, who,
together with their officer, have held this post many years;
presenting the only specimen of novel military display to be
found in the province. The cavalry and infantry of the young
prince wear just the same rough accoutrements, and perform
just the same wild evolutions, they did fifty years ago; but a
considerable change having commenced in these things by the
higher members of his family, it must, in course, spread to him.
The more simple uniform, and certain tactics of western Europe,
are brought into the camps of the king and Abbas Mirza by
British and Russian officers; and the same organization has
been adopted by the Prince-Governor of Kermanshah, under
the auspices of Frenchmen. To carry modes of warfare into a
country may seem a paradoxical way of being a harbinger of
mercy; but with the tactics of Europe, we have every reason to
hope the laws of its battle will be received; and that the im-
perishable pillar of a hero's glory, erected in the minds of his
GOVERNMENT OF KERIM. KHAN. '713
people and the vanquished, may succeed to the corruptible
pyramid of human heads, severed from bodies to whom resist-
ance was no more. Their own great moral poet Sadi has furnished
a motto for that renewed standard. “The happy conqueror was
not an angel; neither was he cased in enchanted armour. It
was by his valour, justice, and mercy, that he attained great and
happy ends. Be thou brave, just, and merciful, and thou shalt
be this hero !” - • *
The palace and its dependencies, far from magnificent in
themselves, are proofs of the parental care with which Kerim
Khan provided for the more substantial grandeur of the country
over which he was the actual sovereign, while bearing no prouder
"title than that of wakeel, or lieutenant of the reigning monarch.
The king, whose duties he performed, was a poor child of eight
years old, the last of the race of Sefī; and who had been
nominally placed in the vacant throne by the destroyers of Nadir
Shah. The happy government of Kerim Khan, Malcolm beauti-
fully observes, when contrasted with the tyrants who preceded
him, “affords to the historian that description of mixed pleasure
and repose which a traveller enjoys, who arrives at a lovely and
fertile valley in the midst of an arduous journey over barren and
rugged wastes; for it is pleasing to recount the actions of a
chief, who, though born in a subordinate rank, obtained power
without a crime, and who exercised it with a moderation that
was, in the times in which he lived, as singular as his humanity
and justice.” All the cities of Persia flourished under his juris-
diction, but none with such marks of personal attachment as
Shiraz. Sprung from one of the native tribes himself, he pre-
ferred that city from its vicinity to the simple people from whom
he derived his descent; strengthened its works, enriched it with
VOL. I. 4 Y
714 GOVERNMENT OF KERIM. KHAN.
manufactories, adorned it with buildings, and planted the pleasant
environs with the most delightful gardens. But he was often
heard to say, “he was more desirous of promoting the comfort
and prosperity of the people under his care, than to encrease the
magnitude, or add to the splendour of his capital.” This virtuous
prince died at an extreme old age, in the bosom of peace,
regretted by the nation at large ; and even now remembered
with tributes of ingenuous encomium by the royal descendants
of the personal enemies of his race.
Amongst other public works, he erected a commodious bazar,
nearly a quarter of a mile long, arched above, and furnished with
openings at judicious distances for the admission of air artd light;
and yet so disposed, as to be rarely accessible to the disagreeable
effects of excessive heat or rain. This is now in a very falling
state, too well harmonizing with the remains of a large unfinished
mosque, which still goes by his name. •
With the death of its protector, expired many of the advantages
which, during his life, the place of his residence possessed over
other cities of the empire; and the civil wars that followed the
event, ending in removing the seat of royal government, gave a
mortal blow to the prosperity of Shiraz. Its commerce was
diverted into other channels, and its numerous manufactories
perished for want of purchasers; two, however, have survived
the wreck, and are prosecuted with sufficient diligence and success;
one is making glass for windows, bottles, and goblets, which,
though not of the most elegant sort, are vendable all over the
kingdom ; the second is the formation of sword-blades and
daggers, which are deemed excellent for general use. But
nothing done here by even the best workmen, can equal the old.
manufacture of Kerman and Khorasan, called the Kermanry
FOUNDERY OF SHIRAZ. '715
and Karkorasany; the wave orgishor of the latter, particularly,
being large and black, on a steel so tempered as never to break,
and to keep an unbluntable edge. Some of these most precious
weapons were offered to me at a price from fifty to a hundred
tomauns; that is, from fifty pounds sterling to twenty-five each.
The art of founding the metal in the superlative way that formed
these ancient swords, poignards, knives, &c. is now lost; which
occasions so very high a value being set on them, when they are
proved to be genuine; a fact of some difficulty to ascertain,
modern artificers so well counterfeiting the appearance of the
antique blades, it requires no little experience to detect the
cheat at sight. The manufactures in most esteem next to those
already mentioned, which includes that of Shiraz, are those of
Dishy, Lahory, and Kom Lindy. The foundery at Shiraz has
entirely superseded that at Kom, or Koom ; and the workmen
have a method of renewing the damask or water-mark on the
blade by the application of zagh, which they explained to me to
be the black alum. Georgia too boasts an excellent manufacture
of this kind; and there are two native workmen at Tiflis, whose
swords, daggers, &c. bring the most extravagant prices. There
were not many more objects of ingenuity to detain my attention,
in a city which half a century ago commanded the home-traffic to
the East; and, having made my purchase of a sword and dagger,
with the regret of a man quitting a place, perhaps for ever, where
he had experienced the most disinterested kindness, I found the
time of my sojourn at Shiraz was drawing near a close. If any
circumstance more than another is calculated to try the disposi-
tions of men, it is when a stranger of a different faith, as well as
of a different country, is thrown on their sympathy and care.
4 Y 2
'716 PUNISHMENT OF THE BASTINADO.
Hence I can never forget the more than hospitable roof of the
son of Jaffier Khan. -
Just before I took leave of my friendly host and his city, an
opportunity occurred of my seeing the execution of the punish-
ment which we call the bastinado, and the Persians mention by
the familiar term of “turning up the heels.” It is adjudged to
them all, from the highest khan to the lowest peasant, when de-
linquency demands chastisement; and bein g so common, unhap-
pily it is hardly considered a disgrace. The present scene was
to be enacted on the demand of the British chargé-d'affaires, who
had sent directions for that purpose to Dr. Sharpe, a countryman
of our own, who came to Shiraz in his way from Bushire to
Teheran, where he was to replace my friend the late Dr. Campbell,
as physician to the king. This circumstance rendered the com-
mission doubly disagreeable; and, besides having to require the
act from the son of his future patron, he was enjoined to witness
its being done. The delinquents were three natives of the place,
and moreover servants of the prince; the alleged crime (which
had been committed several months before) was having grossly
insulted one of our civilians from India, at that time residing in
the environs of Shiraz for his health. As soon as the outrage had
become known, the British diplomatic agent at the court of the
Shah, with a promptitude honourable to himself, and due to the
nation he represents, required the apprehension and punishment
of the offenders; but it was a difficult task to discover them;
and two unfortunate persons, seized on suspicion, were bas-
tinadoed for the crime, and afterwards discovered to be innocent.
The offenders being yet to be sought, it was supposed that British
honour could not be satisfied till they were actually brought to
the scourge; and after much search, they were at last found.
INFLICTION OF THE BASTINADO. 717
On this intimation, Dr. Sharpe had received his commission,
The day being fixed for the infliction of the punishment, which
must always be performed in the presence of the royal go-
vernor, I availed myself of the circumstance to be a spectator
of so ancient an Asiatic mode of correction. The time ap-
pointed by the prince being about an hour after sunset, Dr.
Sharpe and myself repaired to the palace; and were received by
his Royal Highness with a good humour I hardly anticipated on
an occasion which might have been galling to the feelings of a
prince and a master. - -
We were to look from the open side of the saloon upon the
scene of punishment, which the gloom of the evening threw
rather into shade. The saloon itself was lit by half a dozen
most uncourtly tallow-candles, set on the carpet under glass
protectors, which shielded the flame from the outward air.
But the usual veils for this purpose are upright octagon frames
of stained wood, covered with white, or prettily painted muslin,
the transparency of which, dispensing, yet softening the rays it
diffuses, gives a moonlight, or varied picturesque hue to all the
objects around.
* After a short conversation with Hassan Ali Mirza, we saw the
delinquents make their appearance below ; and being ceremoni-
ously identified as the real objects of justice, they were ordered to
retire some paces to the left, in view of the prince, and there re-
ceive the meed of their crime. The word and the action seemed
almost one, for in a few moments the court re-echoed with the
sound of the flail-like sticks of the ferroches, the lictors of this
part of the world. The process is simple, and the natives are so
accustomed to the sight or the sufferance, they make the neces-
sary preparations with unaffected sang froid. Having stripped
’718 INFLICTION OF THE BASTINADO.
off their shoes, they place themselves flat on their backs in a row
on the ground, then raise their legs high enough to rest them,
near the ankles, on a strong pole, the ends of which are held by
two men. Three loose nooses had been previously attached to
the apparatus we saw, through which the feet of the culprits
were thrust, and the pole twisted till it drew the nooses close,
and fixed the limb firmly to the pole. Thus prostrate and
secured, the flagellation was inflicted by two of the ferroches,
who were stationed on each side of their victims, who, notwith-
standing the coolness with which they prepared for the stroke,
the moment it was given, set up the most horrible shrieks and
howlings, and so continued, as if every lash entered their souls,
though I believe more sticks were broken against the pole than
touched their feet. However, so unpleasant a scene was not
allowed to endure long: Dr. Sharpe was soon satisfied that his
commission needed no more, and he and myself united in beg-
ging the prince-governor to put an end to the punishment. His
Royal Highness did not require persuasion, since the object of
the chargé d'affaires was now acknowledged to be accomplished,
namely, that no insult offered to a British subject should
pass with impunity. And having commanded the men to be
withdrawn from the place, he requested that we would put our
names to a paper to the same effect, adding, “It being neces-
sary to have such a voucher, that these men, or others, might
not be punished a third time for the same offence.”
If all the punishments of the East equalled the gentleness of this,
there would be no reason to complain of oriental severity; the
ordinary style of the infliction seldom producing more inconve-
nience than a few days’ extraordinary tenderness in the parts
that sustained the stroke. ...”
ILLNESS OF THE AUTHOR AND HIS SERVANT. 719
Much as my stay at Shiraz had been protracted by the state
of my own health, and that of my poor Russian servant, it
was likely to have lasted much longer, had not Dr. Sharpe
arrived at the very time of our greatest extremity, and, under
the goodness of Providence, certainly raised us both from the
grave. I soon regained strength sufficient to meditate the
farther prosecution of my tour; but my servant, though re-
covered from the fever, continued in a fearful state of mental
derangement. It being impossible to take him with me under
such circumstances, I made arrangements with a worthy Arme-
nian priest, to leave him under his care till cooler weather, and
his restored faculties, should enable him to follow me in safety.
My own plan was to proceed to Darabgurd, Firoozabad, &c.,
and thence, by Bushire, to places of interest still farther east-
ward. But when I discussed it with my medical friend, he
told me at once, that from the extreme heat of the season,
and my debilitated state, should I persist in my resolution
of travelling in that direction, through a region which is empha-
tically called the gurmseer, or quarter of heat, there was every
chance I should never see Europe again. My object now,
he added, must be to entirely recover my health, before I
could dare to attempt any distant journeyings whatever; and
a retrograde movement was what he strongly urged. Indeed,
my own personal feelings seconded his advice; and finding
by such a change I must relinquish the more eastern expe-
dition altogether, I resolved to return to Ispahan without de-
lay, having the double inducement of my kind physician's care,
and his society; and when it should please Heaven to re-brace
me to my usual strength, it now became my intention to pro-
ceed to Hamadan, the ancient Ecbatana, to satisfy my wish of
720 . RETURN TO ISPAHAN. .
comparing its relics with those I had so lately seen in the
province of Fars, the ancient Persis ; and thence take my
course along the shores of the Tigris and Euphrates, to search
into the remains of the oldest city of the world, and with my
own eyes behold the stupendous pile of Babylon; the awful wit-
ness of the sure word of prophecy, the great city, which covered
so many leagues, reduced to a heap, and a pool, and a wilder-
ness: not a man dwelling there, nor a roof remaining to show
that there ever was a dwelling for man; and yet, after more than
two thousand years of this utter desolation, neither time, nor
warring nations in its neighbourhood, have been able to level the
imperishable heap; which stands a mountain in the desert, the
monument alike of its great existence and signal overthrow. ...
With this object now possessing my mind, I took my leave of all
at Shiraz; and, adding my own people to the suite of Dr. Sharpe,
on the 30th of July, 1818, set forth on my return to Ispahan.
END OF THE FIRST volumE.
. LoNDoN :
Printed by A. and R. Spottiswoode,
New-Street-Square.
THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
- GRADUATE LIBRARY
DATE DUE
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