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IN
ASIA M
MINO R:
1
OR
AN ACCOUNT OF A TOUR
MADE AT THE EXPENSE
OF THE SOCIETY
O F
DILETTANT I.
BY RICHARD CHANDLER, D.D.
FELLOW OF MAGDALEN COLLEGE,
AND OF THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES
JUVAT INTEGROS ACCEDERE FONTES,
ATQUE HAURIRE
LUCRET.
OXFORD:
PRINTED AT THE CLARENDON PRESS.
M. DCC. LXX.V.
Sold by J. DODSLEY, J. ROBSON, T. CADELL, P. ELMSLY, and
G. ROBINSON, LONDON; and by D. PRINCE, OXFORD.
1
Entered in the Hall-Book of the Company of Stationers,
Rocha
мно
2-23-34-
TO THE
SOCIETY
O F
DILETTANTI
MY LORDS AND GENTLEMEN,
HE relation of a Journey into a re-
THE
mote Country, performed at your ex-
penfe, naturally claims the honour of your
Patronage, on its being fubmitted to general
inſpection. Indeed, Juftice requires that the
Author fhould point out the Sources of his
Intelligence; and, if information or amufe-
ment refult from his Undertaking, that the
approbation of the Public fhould be referred
principally to his Employers.
BUT beſides this motive for addreſſing you,
the Author is happy in an opportunity of
a 2
avowing
308554
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(. IV.
)
avowing the pride and pleaſure which he feels
in having ſerved a Society compoſed of fuch
illuſtrious and diſtinguiſhed Perfonages, as the
DILETTANTI; and in recording one re-
markable inſtance of your munificent attention
to Letters and the Arts.
THE Countries, to which his Reſearches
were particularly directed by your Committee,
have made a moft confpicuous figure in Hif
tory. The Changes they have undergone,
with their preſent State and remaining Anti-
quities, were deſervedly regarded by them as
proper Objects of Enquiry. Your Traveller,
on his part, was folicitous, while abroad, to
execute to your fatisfaction his ſhare in the
Enterprize, which you fo generouſly fup-
ported; and has fince been affiduous in ren-
dering the materials confided to him not un-
worthy of the Society, and of a favourable
reception from the Curious and Learned.
THE
'
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THE Spirit of Difcovery which prevails
in this Nation will ever be reckoned among
its moſt honourable Characteriſtics; and
when the various Attempts, to which it has
given rife, fhall be enumerated, and their
produce examined, This, it is prefumed, will
be found of no inconfiderable value, but will
receive its portion of Praiſe, and reflect
fome luftre on the name of the Society of
DILETTA N T I.
I HAVE the honour to be, with the greateſt
reſpect and deference,
MY LORDS AND GENTLEMEN,
Your most obliged
and most obedient
bumble Servant,
H
RICHARD CHANDLER.
}
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PREFACE.
HE following Work cannot perhaps be more
fuitably prefaced than with the Inftructions of
the Committee of DILETTANTI, which the Author
has the leave of the Society to lay before the Public;
and with a fuccinct Account of the Materials, which
the Tour produced.
>
"INSTRUCTIONS for Mr. CHANDLER,
"Mr. REVETT, and Mr. PAR S.
<c
WH
WHEREAS the Society of Dilet-
tanti have refolved, that a Perfon
"or Perfons, properly qualified, be fent with fufficient
"Appointments to fome Parts of the Eaſt, in order
"to collect Informations, and to make Obfervations,
"relative to the ancient State of thoſe Countries, and
❝ to fuch Monuments of Antiquity as are ftill remain-
"ing; and the Society having further refolved, that
"a Sum, not exceeding Two Thousand Pounds, be
"appropriated to that Purpoſe, and having alſo ap-
"pointed You to execute their Orders on this Head;
"We, the Committee entruſted by the Society with
"the Care and Management of this Scheme, have
"agreed upon the following Inftructions for Your
-
" Direction
}
viii
PREFACE.
"Direction in the Diſcharge of that Duty to which
"You are appointed.
I.
"You are forthwith to embark on Board the
Anglicana, Captain Stuart, and to proceed to
"Smyrna, where You will prefent to Conful Hayes the
"Letters which have been delivered to You, from
"One of His Majeſty's Principal Secretaries of State,
"and from the Turkey Company, and you will con-
"fult with Mr. Hayes about the moſt effectual Method
❝ of carrying thoſe Inftructions into Execution.
2.
"Our principal Object at preſent is, that, fixing
upon Smyrna, as your Head-Quarters, You do from
"thence make excurfions to the feveral Remains of
Antiquity in that Neighbourhood, at fuch different
"Times, and in fuch Manner, as You fhall, from the
"Information collected on the Spot, judge moſt ſafe
" and convenient, and that you do procure the ex-
"acteſt Plans and Meaſures poffible of the Buildings
“You fhall find, making accurate Drawings of the
"Baſs-Reliefs and Ornaments, and taking fuch Views
" as you fhall judge proper; copying all the Infcrip-
❝tions you fhall meet with, and remarking every
"Circumftance which can contribute towards giving
"the beſt Idea of the ancient and prefent State of
"thofe Places.
3. "As various Circumftances, beft learnt upon
"the Spot, muft decide the Order in which you fhall
proceed in the Execution of the foregoing Article,
"We ſhall not confine you in that Reſpect, and fhall
"C
"only
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PREFACE.
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"only obſerve in general, that, by a judicious Dif-
"tribution of your Time and Bufinefs, you may,
"with proper Diligence, in about Twelve Months,
"vifit every Place worth your Notice, within Eight
"or Ten Days Journey of Smyrna; It may be moſt
"adviſable to begin with fuch Objects as are leſs dif-
"tant from that City, and which may give you an
"Opportunity of foon tranfmitting to the Society a
"Specimen of your Labours. You will be exact in
"marking Diſtances, and the Direction in which you
"travel, by frequently obferving your Watches and
"Pocket Compaffes, and you will take the Variation
«as often as you can.
I
4.
Though the principal View of the Society, in
"this Scheme, is pointed at fuch Diſcoveries and Ob-
"ſervations as you ſhall be able to make with regard
"to the Ancient State of thofe Countries, yet it is
"by no means intended to confine you to that Pro-
"vince; on the contrary, It is expected, that you do
"Report to Us, for the Information of the Society,
"whatever can fall within the Notice of curious and
"obferving Travellers; and, in order to aſcertain
"more fully our meaning on this Head, We do
hereby direct, That from the Day of your Depar-
"ture from hence, to that of your Return, you do,
"each of you, keep a very minute Journal of every
"Day's Occurrences and Obfervations, reprefenting.
Things exactly in the light they ftrike you, in the
"plaineft Manner, and without any regard to Style
"or Language, except that of being intelligible; and,
“that you do deliver the fame, with whatever Draw-
b
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ings
३
X
PREFACE.
t
"ings you ſhall have made, (which are to be confi-
“dered as the Property of the Society) to Mr. Hayes,
"to be by Him tranfmitted, as often as Conveyances
"fhall offer, to Us, under Cover to William Ruffell
"Efq; Secretary to the Levant Company, and you
"fhall receive from Us, through the fame Channel,
"fuch further Orders as We fhall judge neceffary.
5. HAVING ordered the Sum of Two Hundred
"Pounds to be inveſted in Mr. Chandler's Hands, to
"defray all Expences which may be incurred, 'till
"
your Arrival at Smyrna, We have alfo ordered a
"Credit in your Favor, to the Amount of Eight
"Hundred Pounds per Annum, to commence from
"the Day of your Arrival at that Place, you giving
Drafts, figned by Mr. Chandler, and Mr. Revett
"or Mr. Pars; The whole to be difpofed of as fol-
"lows; viz. One Hundred Pounds a Year to Mr.
"Revett; Eighty Pounds a Year to Mr. Pars, who
"are each of Them to be paid One Quarter in ad-
σε vance; the remaining Six Hundred and Twenty is
to be applied to the common Purpoſes of the Jour-
ney, by Mr. Chandler, who is to be Treaſurer, Pay-
"maſter, and Accomptant, and may appropriate, to
"his private Ufe, fuch Part of that Sum, as he fhall
"find neceffary, informing Us of his Management of
"the common Stock, and tranſmitting to Us his Ac-
"count from time to time.
6. "AND though our intire Confidence in your
"Prudence and Difcretion 'leaves Us no room to
“doubt, but that perfect Harmony and good Under-
"C
ſtanding,
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PREFA CÉ.
xi
"ftanding, which is fo neceffary, as well to your own
Happineſs, as to the Succefs of the Undertaking,
"will fubfift among you; yet, in order to prevent
" any poffible Difpute, which might ariſe about diffe-
"rent Meaſures, in the Courſe of this Expedition,
We expressly Declare, that the Direction of the
«whole is hereby lodged in Mr. Chandler, affifted by
"Mr. Revett: And though Mr. Revett, and Mr. Pars,
"fhould proteſt againſt any Meaſure propoſed by Mr.
"Chandler, it is Our Meaning, that any fuch Diffe-
"rence of Opinion fhould not in the leaft interrupt
"or fufpend your Operations, but that, at the fame
"Time, that fuch Perfons as diffent from, or diſap-
prove of what is propoſed, fhall tranfmit to Us their
"Reaſons for fuch Diffent, They do notwithſtanding
" continue to purſue Mr. Chandler's Plan, 'till they
"receive our further Orders for their Conduct.
Co
*
"GIVEN under Our Hands, at the Star and
"Garter, this Seventeenth Day of May, 1764.
1
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CHARLEMONt.
ROB. WOOD.
THO. BRAND.
WM FAUQUIER.
JAMES STUART.
MIDDLESEX.
LE DESPENcer.
J. GRAY.
BESSBOROUGH.
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xii
PREFA CE.
V
J
IT may be proper to mention here, that Mr. RE-
VETT had given fatisfactory evidence of his abilities
as an Architect in a Work entitled RUINS OF ATHENS;
which it will pleaſe the lovers of antient elegance to
know is ftill carrying on by his companion and fellow-
labourer Mr. STUART. Mr. PARS, a young Painter,
was recommended by his promifing talents; and juſti-
fied the hopes conceived of him. He has lately pub-
liſhed a Set of Views in SWITZERLAND, being part of a
Collection made for the Right Honourable Lord Viſ-
count PALMERSTON ; and is now preparing to ſtudy
at Rome with a ſtipend from the Society of DILET-
TANTI,
THE diligence of theſe Gentlemen was manifefted
in a large number of Plans, Views, and Drawings,
now in the poffeffion of the Society; many of them
taken in the Tour related in the enfuing Volume;
and the remainder in Greece, particularly at Athens,
where we refided ſeveral Months, and where I made a
very choice Collection of antient Marbles, now like-
wife in the poffeflion of the Society.
Soon after our return the Society generously or-
dered, that a Specimen of theſe labours fhould be en-
graved and printed at their expenſe; and to this
Work, which they permitted to be publiſhed, entitled
IONIAN ANTIQVITIES, the Reader is
fometimes referred in the following Volume. The
Preface was written by the late excellent Mr. WOOD,
嘛
​the
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PREFACE.
xiii
A
*
the Editor of the Ruins of Palmyra and Balbec, who
alfo drew up our Inftructions; the Account of the
Architecture by Mr. REVETT, and the hiftorical
part by the Relater. The remaining Views have been
finiſhed by Mr. PARS; and Mr. REVETT is em-
ployed by the Society to complete the Drawings of
Architecture.
THE other Materials were a Book of Infcriptions
and a Journal of our Tour, which the Society were
- pleaſed to beſtow on me, to be examined at my leifure
and publiſhed. The Infcriptions, many of which are
uncommonly curious and antient, have been lately
printed in a ſeparate Volume; it having been judged
expedient to detach them from the Journal. Such of
them as are connected with the following Work will
be eafily found by the learned Reader in that Collec-
tion, to which he is here referred.
THE Journal confifting of two parts, one of
which relates to ASIA MINOR, the other to GREECE,
the former is now offered to the Public; and, if fa-
vourably received, will be followed by the remaining
Volume. In this, no labour has been fpared; the
Geography of the Country is improved; many mif-
takes are rectified; and difficulties obviated or re-
moved.
THE Writer is aware, that he may be afked by
the more curious Reader, on what foundation he has
mentioned
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xiv
PREFA G E.
1
mentioned certain Barrows now extant, as thofe of
Achilles and other claffical Heroes; as alfo his reaſon
for fuppofing Niobe to be ftill viſible on Mount
Sipylus. The Effays advertifed at the end of this
Volume are partly intended to fatisfy any fuch
Enquirer.
OXFORD, 1775-
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
OYAGE to the Strait of Gibraltar-Cuſtom of the failors
Our paſſage through the Strait -Afpecies of porpus de-
Scribed-The funfet remarkable-Antient accounts of it —
caufe.
The
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Page I
Voyage to Genoa
Leghorn.
CHA P.
Manner of fiſhing in the Mole
II.
Arrive at
5
CH A P III.
}
Sail from Leghorn
In the Archipelago - Ruin of an antient
temple on Sunium-Paſs Smyrna-Enter the Hellefpont-Ar-
rive at the inner caftles-Quit the ship.
CHA P.
IV.
Turks defcribed-Reception on shore-Dinner-The town-The
river-The fite of the two caftles afcertained-The night.
CHA P. V.
We pass down the Hellefpont - Land in the Cherronefe of Thrace
-The town antiently Eleûs Civility of the governor
Barrow, &c. of Proteflaus.
CHAP. VI.
7
II
The
14
Sail to Tenedos-Situation and modern hiſtory of the iſland—The
port and Town The antiquities Greek recreations - The
night-The morning-The conful returns.
a
16
CHAP.
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CONTENTS.
#
CHA P. VII.
Leave Tenedos - An antiquity on the island-Fountains — Their
conftruction —Their ufe Face of the island - Set fail for the
Continent.
CHA P. VIII.
Flight of cranes-View of Alexandria Troas-Return to our boat
-Mount Athos -Manner of paffing the night-Way back to
the ruins.
CHA P. IX.
Policy of Alexander the Great-Alexandria Troas—Its fituation
Ports-Appearance-Remains-Infcriptions-The aquædu&t-
Account of it—Of Atticus Herodes-No churches vifible-The
marbles removed.
CHA P. X.
An accident-At the vineyard-In want of provifions-Are joined
by the owner of the vineyard-In fear of banditti.
CHA P.
XI.
Invited to Chemali-We fet out on foot·
We ſet out on foot -The hot baths—Arrive
at Chemali-Remains of antiquity-Once Colona.
CHA P.
XII
Coaft by Alexandria Troas-Enėkioi-Giaurkioi or Sigéum-Site
of the church Account of Sigéum-The famous Sigéan Stone
part of a pilafter —The difpofition of the lines on it
Greek alphabet Age of the first infcription
Second-It lies neglected.
CHA P.
XIII.
--
19
22
25
30
32
Of the
Age of the
35
At Giaurkioi -Profpect of the plain-Farther account of it-
News of the conful— Our plan difconcerted The evening·
Barrows of Achilles, &c.-At Chomkali.
R
40
CHAP
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iii
CONTENT S.
1
CHA P. XIV.
Land in the CherronefeA panegyris of Greeks-Their Muficians
Their church-Arrive at the inner caftle-Character of our
Turks.
1
CHA P. XV.
Our embarraſſment-Arrival of an English ship-Its deftination
-We embark for Scio-
Quick paffage.
CHA P. XVI.
Of Scio-Its modern hiftory-Reduced by the Turks-The town
-Greek women-Number of dogs---Manner of bathing---The
conful, &c.--- Antiquities of Scio --- The temple of Cybele -
Wines---The lentifcus or maftic-tree.
CHA P.
XVII.
Set fail from Scio---Moor in a creek---Weather Cape Kara-bornu
The Inbat --- View of Smyrna from the fea The Frank
ſtreet---The conful's bouſe---Live camelions.
CHAP.
XVIII.
--
The preſent
Origin of Smyrna---The fite---Its profperity---Ruined---The ci-
tadel repaired---The Mahometan and Chriſtian towns---Success
of Tamerlane Smyrna reduced by the Sultans
town ---The citadel ---The ftadium and theatre ---The port
The walls --- The fepulchres --- Conſumption of the old materials
---Tomb of St. Polycarp.
CHA P. XIX.
Smyrna a great mart---The people---Drefs of the women---Build-
ings ---Heat, earthquakes, and plague Burying-grounds
Provifions---Mosquitoes or gnats.
a
43
46
78
55
58
65
1
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CHAP.
iv
CONTENT S.
70
75.
CHAP XX.
The river Meles --- The inner bay
Of the adjacent country
Old Smyrna--- Antient fepulchres---Its orign---Story of Homer
Of another Poet of Smyrna The aquæducts --- The cave
of Homer---The River-God Meles.
CHA P.
XXI.
The
The gulf of Smyrna Menimen --- The river Hermus
Strait---The Shoals---The plain of the Hermus---The mouth-
Of Leuce---The extremity of the plain---Of Phocéa---Future
changes to be expected.
CHA P. XXII.
Our firhman-Firft journey from Smyrna-A tendour-Mildness
of the winter at Smyrna-Return of the cranes-We prepare
for another journey-Rumour of the plague-Confirmed-Our
embarraſſment Our fecond journey-Method.
CHA P. XXIII.
Sea-coaft of Ionia-Vourla reputed Clazomene-The olive-groves
-Veftiges of an antient bridge-The Agamemnonian hot baths
-Prefent ftate-Ifthmus of the Peninfula-The dike cut by
Alexander-Villages-The Town of Vourla.
CHA P. · XXIV.
Search for Clazomene-Discover the mole-Pafs over-The fite
—Iflets-We re-pass-Origin of Vourla.
CHA P. XXV.
Of the Kara-borniotes-Mount Mimas-Night-Arrive at Ery-
thra-The fite-Iflets-Remains.
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83
88
91
CHA P.
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CONTENTS.
V
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CHAP.
XXVI.
Of the Peninfula-Chifmé — Mount Corycus-Mount Mimas-
End of the Peninfula-At Segigeck-Antiquities-Cranes.
CHA P. XXVII.
Situation of Teos-Remains
-Remains The port, &c.-
of Bacchus--Teos deſerted-A Venetian Veffel.
CHA P. XXVIII.
94
The temple
97
To Sevri-biſſar—Quarries of marble-The town
Dionyfiafts, &c.
The.
66
99
CHA P. XXIX.
Arrive at HypfileThe Myonnefus
Hypfile a ftrong-hold. 101
CHA P.
XXX.
Hot waters ----- Their reputation
Some ruins
Lebedus
102
The island AfpisThe Dionyfiafts.
CHA P.
XXXI.
Arrive at Zillé or
Crofs a torrent ·Afcend mount Gallefus-
Claros Remains - Of the oracle and temple of Apollo
-Of the oracular fountain and cave Of Colophon, No-
tium, and Claros No remains of the two former
arrive at Ephefus.
We
CH A P.
XXXII.
Distance of Ephefus from Smyrna
To Sedicui
fources of a river To Tourbali
To the
·To Tourbali—Of the Turcomans
Their booths-To the Cayfter-Arrive at Aiafalúck-
Relation of a journey in 1705.
104
109
CHAP.
L
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vi
CONTENT S.
CHA P. XXXIII.
AiafalúckThe evening
Remains-The caftle
The caftle The
mofque The aquæduct- An antient bridge.
CHA P. XXXIV.
Aiafalúck not Ephefus—Tamerlane at Aiafalúck—–—
the two places confoundedOrigin of Aiafalúck
A flood.
CHA P. XXXV.
F14
•Hiftory of
Thun-
118
The theatre The odeum, &c.
-A freet—Another A temple
Extent of the city Avenues
der ftorm
Ephefus
The ſtadium
-The gymnafium-
-Square tower-
Prion a mountain of marble
quarries, &c.
CHA P. XXXVI.
A place of burial The
120
}
of Lyfimachus -The port.
Old Ephefus-The Ionic city-
The Ionic cityOf Androclus
The city
127
Modern hiftory of Ephefus
Its decline―The preſent Ephefians.
CHAP.
XXXVII.
The Selenufian lakes A fifbery
Gallefus
New land Port Panormus
The Cayfter-Road on
The island
Syrie.
131
CHA P.
XXXVIII.
Of the temple of Diana
The idol
The idol
Account of it- The
prieſts, &c.
·Self-manifeftations of the goddess
An
Ephefian decree-
Remarks.
133
CHA
P.
XXXIX.
The Spot chofen for the temple of Diana-Skill of the architects
The new templeIts magnificenceThe afylum
The
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vii
The temple not in the city-Plundered-Its deftruction un-
·The Juppofed fite A Sibylline prophecy.
noticed.
137
C
CHA P.
XL.
Leave Aiafalúck-
·Of Ortygia
Nova.
Road to Scala Nova Of Phygela
The lower way
Changes-
•Of Scala
141
CHA P. XLI.
7
Continue our journey
Mount Mycale and Trogilium
At
144
Suki-Pafs Priene-Perplexed in the plain.
CHA P.
XLII.
The theatre at Miletus- Infcription on the wall-Other re-
mains-The moſque, &c. Modern hiſtory of Miletus-
Its antient greatneſs.
CHA P.
XLIII.
The Aga of Suki-To Ura—To Branchida
A water—Ruin of the temple of Apollo Didyméus
Other remains.
ormus
CHA P. XLIV.
146
-Port Pan-
149
Ignorance of the Turks Their
buts-Continue our journey-The confines of Ionia with Caria. 152
?
At the temple At Ura
CHA P.
XLV.
Of the Ionians—Their panegyris-
Their panegyris-Panionium
-Story of
the city Helice.
154
CHA P. XLVI.
Set out from Scala Nova Separate and lofe our way-Be-
nighted on mount Mycale
Goat-berds-To Changlee
Goat-berds-
To Panionium-To Kelibeſh.
156
CHAP.
viii
CONTENT S.
At Kelibefb.
Eafter
CHA P. XLVII.
Zingari or Gypfies ——————- Women lamenting.
A phænomenon- Remark.
CHA P. XLVIII.
>
The acropolis of Priene-Deſcent from it-Remains of the
city-The wall and gate-ways-Taken by Bajazet.
Mount Titanus.
CHA P. XLIX.
Rocks in the plain-The Meander-En-
tangled on the mountain ·Benighted Arrive at Myûs.
Of Myûs
oratory
Of Thymbria
CHA P.
L.
The fite and remains Graves, &c. An
Another Ruined churches and monafteries—
Gnats and flies.
CHA P. LI.
·An iſlet A rock in the lake Ano-
Function of the lake with the
Another
The lake of Myús
ther iflet
Maander
Altars and niches.
CHA P. LII.
159
161
163
165
168°
Firſt diſcovery of Myús To Merfenet—To Miletuș To
Oranduick
The night To Suki and Smyrna
mark on the watercourſe in the plain - Account of a journey
-Re-
171
in 1673-
Remarks on it.
CHA P. LIH.
The Maander muddy-
The bed—Its courſe to the lake-
To the fea-Change in the face of the region Its antient
geography The islands before Miletus -The rocks of
Ofebafbá Increaſe of land-Its progrefs unnoticed
Future encroachments.
174
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CONTENTS.
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CHA P.
LIV.
Enter Caria-At Ghauzocleu-Booths of the Turcomans
Iafus Remains of the city-
Jcriptions-Lafian Marbles at Scio
The fepulchres
In-
Journey continued. 180
CHA P.
LV.
An
Increaſe of land
Hillock in a plain
comans
Site of Bargylia
anda Arrive at Mylafa▪
Farrit.Our viſit to the Aga.
CHAP.
Booths of the Tur-
Of Kindye- -Of Cary-
The Turkish play of the
Of Mylafa——The temple of Auguftus
Euthydemus
LVI.
-A column
An arch or gate-way —
A fepulchre One cut in the rock.
Jupiter of the double hatchet.
.་
184
-Of
Other remains
Temples of
187
CHA P.
LVII.
2
To Eſki-biſſar
Scriptions
Remains of Stratonicea
Remains of StratoniceaIts hiftory
Mount Taurus-Temples of Hecate and Jupiter-In-
་
Introduction of tobacco and coffee into Turkey
Anſwer to a query.
CHA P. LVIII.
From Mylafa to Iafus To Mendelet A temple An
antient town Of Labranda and the temple of Jupiter
InfcriptionsThe mountain- -Re-enter Ionia.
CHA P.
LIX.
The mountain by Mendelet Sources of a
Leave Myús
river
At Carpufeli
Sepulchres and a ftadium-
192
196
.b
Other
B
1
*
x
Other remains
Mæander.
CONTENT S.
Alabanda The Harpafus
ང་
CHA P. LX.
The
199
Pococke's journey to Carpufeli-To MylafaTo Efki-biffar
and places adjacent To Arabi-hilar or Alinda.
CHA P. LXI.
Of Guzel-biffar — Intelligence of the plague - The Baha
Fright of our Fanizary - Magnefia The river Lethæus
-The remains Of Hyle --- Distance from Ephefus and
Tralles.
CHA P. LXII.
Of Tralles and Nyfa---Characa---Tralles restored by Auguftus
Cæfar---Deftroyed by the Turks---Rebuilt --- Of Briula,
Maftaura, and Armata.
CHA P. LXIII.
Arrive at Sultan-biffar---Of Eski-hiſſar---The ſuppoſed fite of
Tralles---Nyfa---Approach to Tralles and Nyfa---The re-
mains of Tralles Origin of Sultan-biffar --- Proximity of
Tralles and Nyfa---Continue our journey.
CHA P.
A P. LXIV.
f
Of Antiochia, Cofcinia, and Orthofia-Picenini's rout to Nofli
-To Jeni-ſheir-To Geyra―To Ipfili-hiſſar-To Laodicea
·Remarks---Pococke's rout to Jeni-ſheir and Geyra---Roads
and diſtances of places.
CHAP
LXV.
Our journey continued---The Afian meadow--- A ferry ---Ca-
roura ---Ruin of a bridge A hot spring.
1
203
205
209
212
215
219
CHAP.
}
CONTENT S.
xi
暑
​$
•
CHAP.
LXVI.
Journey continued ---Temple of Menes ---Denifli ---The Turks
uncivilized---Arrive at Laodicea ---
Fanizary feized --- Behaviour of an Aga
weather.
Our tent beſet
Our
Thieves ---The
221
CHA P.- LXVII.
Of Laodicea ---The Amphitheatre---An inſcription ---A ruin
Other remains, and two theatres The
The Odéum
rivers---Modern history of Laodicea.
CHA P.
We fet out for Pambouk or Hierapolis
viour of an Aga The cliff, &c.
about the Mæander ---Hot waters of
cliff---Poetical account of the cliff.
Remains of Hierapolis --- The theatre
LXVIII.
Stopped --- Beha-
Quality of the foil
Hierapolis --- Another
225.
229
CHA P.
LXIX.
Antient manner of
233
fitting---Ufe of the hot waters---The pool---The Plutonium
--- Our diſappointment.
CHA P.
LXX.
Of Coloffa and the Lycus Rife of the Maander and the
Marfyas--- Celana --- Apamea --- Courfe of the Maander
Apamea ſubject to earthquakes - Rout of Xerxes into
Lydia.
CHA P.
LXXI.
Picenini's journey to Chonos-To Pambouk - Pococke's journey
to Chonos-Remarks-Pococke's journey continued-Dinglar
236
-Ifbecleh-Remarks.
b 2
239
CHAP.
xii
CONTENTS.
4
CHA
P.
LXXII.
Embroiled at Hierapolis Retire to our tent ---
the Maander
Turcomans
-Fly -- Ford
Our conác or refting-place---Booths of the
Ruins of Tripolis
Bullada.
Mode of living
kekaumene
Its hiſtory --- Arrive at
242
CHA P.
Mount Tmolus
LXXIII.
The region named Cata-
The river Hermus --- Arrive at Ala-fbahir. 246
CHA P.
LXXIV.
Of Philadelphia ---Its modern hiftory---The preſent town ---
A mineral ſpring, and the fuppofed wall of bones
uſe of the Greek tongue Civility of the people
of the plague --- Arrive at Sardes.
CHA P. LXXV.
Dif-
News
248
Of Sardes and its Acropolis-Taken by Cyrus-The town
burnt by the Ionians - Surrenders to Alexander the Great
Suffers from an earthquake — Its later hiftory-The
theatre The aſſault under Antiochus -Other remains —
-The hill, and the river Pactolus ---The village---Ruin
of a temple.
CHA P.
from Pergamum to Sardes.
252
LXXVI.
257
Road to Ephefus-Lariffa-Afis-Hypapa-Birghé-Road
CE
CHA P.
Chiſbull's journey to Birghe-
Account of Tyria.
LXXVII.
To Tyria-
·To Ephefus
260
CHAP.
**
"
M
}
xiii
CONTEN, T S.
}
7
1
CHA
P.
LXXVIII.
; We cross the Hermus At Bazocleu
The Gygaan lake
Its hiftory --- The coemetery of the Lydian kings -
The barrow of Halyattes --- Of the antient Lydians.
CHA P. LXXIX.
Re-gain the road to Magnefia---The weather ---At Durguthli
To mount Sipylus --- Of Sipylus the city and Sale
Of Niobe.
Magnefa
261
To
264
<
CHA P.
LXXX.
Hiftory of Magnefia The preſent town The royal mofques
A Turkish Mausoleum The caftle --- Of the Hyllus. 266
CHA P.
LXXXI.
The plague
At Hadgilar
At
268
Our embarraſſment --- Infecurity at Magnefia
at Thyatira Set out for Smyrna
Sedicui ---A Greek.
CHA P. LXXXII.
An engine
Of Sedicui Manner of watering the gardens
---The mountain--- Our houſe---Provifions---Our market-
man --Miſconduct of a fervant ---Manner of living---The
Tettix The Weather --- An earthquake.
CHA P. LXXXIII.
Beginning of the plague-Some accidents-Its fury—Its pro-
bable cauſe—How communicated-Not peftilential or in the
air-Uncontroled-Infatuation of the Turks.
CHA P. LXXXIV.
Duration of the plague-Appears at Sedicui-Its ceflation-
We return to Smyrna-Prepare to leave Afia.
271
277
281
"
A
SOME ERRATA.
PAGE 3, 1. 17, read beyond meaſure
4, 1. 13, fhore, tinged with
11,
1. 9, read to
13, 1.9, Seemingly
20, 1. 17, erecting of
24, 1. 27, lay
41, 1. penult. our
44, 1. penult. dele live-and in p. 50, 1. 11.
46, 1. 4, were -
60, 1. 12, Adramyttium-1. 28, making of
81, 1, 19, bad begun
83, 1. 11, two journies
108, 1. 5, fifteen miles
113, 1. 23, thirteenth
127, l. 9, 10, view
138, 1. 1, raifing of
-193, 1. 9, maſive
206, 1. 26, 27, be immediately knew
207, 1. 31, drank
208, 1. ult. for morning read evening
259, 1. 4, by Strabo
261, 1. 1, bave
271, 1. 17, Tettix
272, l. 14, it
276, 1. 7, fome, as Hefiod
279, 1. 17, communicated
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with the Coafts of EUROPE and ASIA,
and part of ASIA MINOR.
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* 4
TRAVELS
ASIA
IN
MINOR.
4
CHAPTER I.
Voyage to the firait of Gibraltar Cuſtom of the Sailors
paffage through the ftrait - A fpecies of porpuss defcribed
The funfet remarkable - Antient accounts of it — The caufe.
W
Our
E embarked at Gravefend on the ninth of June 1764
in the Anglicana, an Act fhip, carrying fixteen guns,
and thirty two men, burthen about three hundred
tons. The commander was captain John Stewart; the price of
our paffage to Turkey fixty guineas. We had a fair wind, but
our pilot being in liquor did not fail that evening.
Æ
ON Whitfunday, early in the morning, we got under way
with a briſk gale, and arrived in the Downs about noon. The
next day we weighed anchor again, and proceeded to Falmouth
to complete our cargo. We were detained there from the feven-
teenth to the twenty fourth, when we recovered our anchor
with ſome difficulty, and got clear of the harbour. A fignal was
made for a pilot, but he did not come on board foon enough to
be of uſe.
A
THE
2
TRAVELS IN ASIA
ASIA MINOR.
THE. wind had been very high, while we were in the port
of Falmouth; and the weather was ftill unfettled. Black lour-
ing clouds rendered the morning of our departure uncommonly
gloomy and awful. After a heavy ſhower of rain, we were be-
calmed in the mouth of the channel, the fea heaving prodigi-
oufly with the furface quite fmooth and unbroken. We were
carried along by the current, and land foon difappeared. We
now encountered foul weather and contrary winds. The fhip
pitched and rolled exceedingly, the waves frequently burſting
over, and the fwell affecting fome of our oldeft mariners.
ON the third of July we made the rock of Liſbon. We had
then a ſtrong gale, and failed at the rate of nine knots or miles
in an hour. We had run one hundred and feventy knots in the
laft twenty four hours. We here ſaw a grampus or whale ſpout-
ing up water, which, in falling, formed a mift not unlike the
ſmoke from a flaſh of gunpowder. It blew hard in the night,
and the next evening we could difcern Cape St. Vincent.
As we now approached near to the Mediterranean, fome of
the failors had got a ſtrong new rope, and prepared it for duck-
ing fuch of the crew as were novices in this fea. They were to
be let down from the yard-arm with their hands and feet tied to
two bars of wood, placed at convenient diſtances; but when
every thing was ready,, they all preferred the alternative, which
is a fmall forfeit to be deducted from their pay.
OUR paffage through the ftrait of Gibraltar was amufing
and delightful beyond imagination. The coaft on each fide is
irregular, adorned with lofty groteſque mountains of various
ſhapes, the majeſtic tops worn white with rain, and looking as
crowned with fnow. From one of the narrow vallies a thick
ſmoke aroſe. The land is of a brown complexion, as fun-burnt
and barren. On the Spaniſh fhore are many watch-towers, rang-
ing along to a great extent, defigned to alarm the country by
fignals
TRAVELS
3
IN ASIA
MINOR.
fignals on the appearance of an enemy. We had Spanish and
Moorish towns in view, with the rock and fortrefs of Gibraltar.
Sea-birds were flying, and numerous fmall-craft moving to and
fro, on every quarter. We had a gentle breeze, and our fails all
fet, with the current from the weſtern or atlantic ocean in our
favour. In this, the water was agitated and noiſy, like a ſhal-
low brook running over pebbles; while in the contrary currents,
it was ſmooth and calm as in a mill-pond, except where dif-
turbed by albicores, porpuffes, and fea-monſters, which ſported
around us, innumerable. Their burniſhed fides reflected the rays
of the fun, which then ſhone in a pictureſque ſky, of clear azure
foftened by thin fleecy clouds, imparting chearfulneſs to the
waves, which feemed to ſmile on us.
OUR entry into the Mediterranean is here faintly deſcribed,
as no words can convey the ideas excited by ſcenes of ſo much
novelty, grandeur, and beauty. The vaft affemblage of bulky
monſters in particular was beyond amazing; fome leaping up,
as if aiming to divert us; fome approaching the ſhip, as it were
to be ſeen, floating together, abreaſt, and half out of the water.
We counted in one company fourteen, of the ſpecies called by
the failors The Bottle-Nofe, each, as we gueffed, about twelve
feet long. Theſe are almoſt ſhapeless, looking black and oily,
with a large thick fin on the back, no eyes or mouth diſcernible,
the head rounded at the extremity, and fo joined with the body
as to render it difficult to diftinguiſh, where the one ends or the
other begins; but on the upper part is a hole about an inch and
a half in diameter, from which, at regular intervals, the log-
like Being blows out water accompanied with a puff audible at
fome diſtance.
To complete this wonderful day, the fun before its ſetting
was exceedingly big, and affumed a variety of fantaſtic ſhapes.
It was furrounded firſt with a golden glory, of great extent, and
flamed upon the ſurface of the ſea in a long column of fire. The
lower half of the orb foon after immerged in the horizon, the
A 2
other
ނ
A
1
4
TRAVELS IN ASIA
MINOR.
other portion remaining very large and red, with half of a ſmaller
orb beneath it, and ſeparate, but in the fame direction, the cir
cular rim approaching the line of its diameter. Theſe two by
degrees united, and then changed rapidly into different figures,
until the reſemblance was that of a capacious punch-bowl in-
verted. The rim of the bottom extending upward, and the
body lengthening below, it became a muſhroom on a ſtalk,
with a round head. It was next metamorphofed into a flaming
cauldron, of which the lid, rifing up, fwelled nearly into an
orb, and vanifhed. The other portion put on feveral uncirculary
forms, and after many twinklings and faint glimmerings flowly
difappeared, quite red; leaving the clouds, hanging over the
dark rocks on the Barbary ſhore finely tinged, of a vivid bloody
hue.
AND here we may recollect, that the antients had various
ftories concerning the ſetting of the fun in the atlantic ocean;
as for inſtance, that it was accompanied with a noiſe, as of the
fea hiffing, and that night immediately followed. That its mag-
nitude in going down apparently increaſed, was a popular re-
mark, but had been contradicted by an author, who obferved
thirty evenings at Gades, and never perceived any augmenta-
tion. One writer had affirmed, that the orb became an hundred
times bigger than its common fize.
THIS phænomenon will vary, as it depends on the ſtate of
the atmoſphere. It is likely to be moſt remarkable when weſt-
erly winds have prevailed for ſome time; theſe coming over the
atlantic ocean, and bringing with them the grofs vapours, which
ariſe continually, or are exhaled, from that immenſe body of
water.
5
f
CHAP.
!
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
5
?
1
{
→
CHAP.
j
II.
Voyage to Genoa - Manner of fifhing in the Mole
Arrive at Leghorn.
THE Anglicana being freighted for Genoa and Leghorn,
we now ſhaped our courfe for the former port. We were be-
calmed near the coaft of Spain, off Cape de Gatte. We then
had heavy ſhowers and hard gales, by which we were driven out
of our way, and our mafts endangered. Light airs and clear
weather followed; the fky blue and fpread with thin fleecy
clouds. We had a view of ſeveral Spaniſh towns, and of St.
Philip's caftle in the ifland of Minorca. We found the days
lengthen as we advanced northward; and the wind, with a
bright fun, very cold, coming from the Alps. We ftood for
Corfica with a briſk gale and a great fwell, which took us on
the weather-fide. We ſhipped feveral feas, and toffed prodigi-
ouſly. The gulf of Lyons equalled in turbulence the bay of
Biscay.
WE were becalmed on the ſeventeenth of July off Cape de
Melle; and then had a fine gale, and approached Italy at the
rate of twelve miles an hour. The Pharos of Genoa appeared as
a tall pillar, the coaft picturefque and mountainous, its flopes
covered with white houſes, looking from the fea as one conti-
nued city. We now regretted, that the evening was near, fear-
ing the land-breeze would ſpring up, before we could get into
the mole. It became hazy along fhore, and the glorious prof-
pect vanished. The breeze ceafed, and the veffel feemed with-
out motion. On one of the mountains a bright flame afcended
and round about us, on the water, were feveral fires made by
fiſhermen in their boats, one of which we haled
THE
6
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR,
THE fhip glided on toward the ſhore, almoſt infenfibly, until
the land-breeze reached us, fcented with the delicious fragrance
of odorous trees and flowering fhrubs. We then fell to the
eastward, to wait for a current, which fets in the morning. The
night was ſtill and clear. The moon, in its wane, gleamed on
the waves and mountains. The coaft was fpangled with lights
from the houſes, which were over-topped by that of the Pharos.
We could hear diſtinctly at intervals the bells of the churches
and convents, which founded ſweetly ſoft and penfive. Early
the next day we came to an anchor in the
port.
AN Italian proverb affirms, that the Genoeſe have ſea without
fif. However, the great demand for that article of diet ocça-
fions it to be continually harraffed. We had frequent opportu-
nities of ſeeing the method of fiſhing within the mole. Several
Seines are united and extended in the water ſo as to form a large
fo
femicircle, but much curved at the two extremities. The men
then retire to ſome diſtance, and begin clattering with ſticks or
hammers on the fides of their boats; the noife, as is obferved
of thunder, making the fiſh riſe. One man, who is ſtationed on ·
the yard-arm of a ſhip, takes notice which way they fwim, and
gives directions, until they are within the net, when they are
driven toward the ends, and are foon entangled, or trying from
defpair to leap over, fall on a wing, which is faſtened to long
reeds, and kept floating horizontally, on the furface of the
water. The reward of much toil was now and then a few grey-
mullet. The Thynnus or tunny-fiſh was antiently, and is now,
taken in this manner, but in fhoals, which endanger and often
break the nets.
WE tarried at Genoa until the twenty fifth of July, delighted
with the magnificent churches, the marble palaces, the pieces.
of excellent ſculpture, and the many noble pictures, which
adorn fo profufely that admired city. We then weighed anchor
and got out of the mole in the night. On the ſecond day we
paffed
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
7
}
paſſed the iſland Gourgona, by which were many fail of ſmall-
craft fiſhing under fhore for anchovies. We were becalmed all
night about three leagues from Leghorn, but the next afternoon
moored within the mole.
We had been adviſed to carry with us money for our journey
in erown-pieces of filver called imperial tallerie, from Leghorn.
Mr. Rutherfurd, an English merchant, accepted our bills on a
banker in London; and on our arrival at Smyrna we found that
we gained more than five per cent. on the money we had im-
ported, not including infurance, freight, and confulage, which
by the Anglicana would have amounted to about two per cent.
and that drawing on Leghorn from Smyrna would be nine and a
half per cent. better, according to the then exchange, than draw-
ing directly from Smyrna on London, exclufive of the before-
mentioned expences.
CHAP. III.
Sail from Leghorn In the Archipelago Ruin of an antient
temple on Sunium - Paſs Smyrna Enter the Hellefpont
Arrive at the inner caftles-Quit the ſhip.
WE were detained fome days at Leghorn by foul weather,
the wind fouth, with thunder, lightening, and rain; the air
thick and hazy. Some fhips, which had put to fea, were forced
back again. On the tenth of Auguft we got out of the mole
into the road, and early next morning fet fail with a light and
pleaſant breeze. In the evening we were becalmed on the eaſt
fide of the iſland Cabrera, in view of a fishing town. A briſk
gale with rain iffued from clouds refting on the mountains. A
calm then followed, after which the wind veered about every
moment. We had now left Monte Chriſt aftern. In the af-
ternoon it thundered, and à moſt violent fquall overtook us,
with
rain,
**
1
{
}
8
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
rain, which quite obfcured the ſky. We had warning given us
by a mighty agitation of the waves, and were prepared to re-
ceive it. The wind continued very high, and we made great
way.
In the morning it was fair and almoſt calm. We were
then in fight of Sardinia.
}
A gentle breeze ſpringing up on the evening of the fourteenth
of Auguſt wafted us by Maritimo, a rocky ifland, on which is
a fiſhing town. The next night we faw many lights on the
coaft of Sicily. We failed with a fine gale by Surgentum, a large
town on the flope of fome hills. The air was exceedingly hot,
and hazy over the land. We were becalmed beyond Malta in a
chopping ſea, and toffed prodigiously; but on Sunday the nine-
teenth, a pleaſant breeze commenced, which continued to fol-
low us without intermiffion quite through the Archipelago or
Ægean fea. We had ſeen a few turtle floating, and this day
many porpuffes approached very near us, fome leaping out of
the water, fome turning, as if in purſuit of their prey, and
darting through it with incredible ſwiftneſs.
ON the twenty firft we were in view of the high-land of
Modona, which had white clouds hanging over it, in the Morea
or Peloponnefus; and before evening, of Cape Matapan, which
is the extremity of a mountain floping gradually to a point,
having before it a piked rock. The diſk of the ſetting fun waş
indented by the uneven tops of fome remote hills, and the illu-
minated portion grew lefs and leſs until it appeared as a ſmall
ftar. The next night we ſhortened fail, being near land, and
the moon riſing late. In the morning we were between Serigo
and Serigote. The Egg, a rock at the weft end of the former
ifland, with The Two Brothers, which ſtand out in the water,
renders the paſs dangerous to fhips in the dark.
WE failed by Cape St. Angelo, the fea almoſt ſmooth, but
the waves fwelling at intervals, with a hollow noife, and feem-
ing to purſue us. We had the ſmall iſland of Hydre in view at
ſunſet,
3
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
9
funfet, with that of St. George d' Albora ahead. The horizon
was hazy, and it was the opinion of our failors, that the friendly
gale, which had accompanied us fo long, was ſtill likely to
continue.
Ova attention had been for fome time agreeably engaged by
the claſſical country, which furrounded us, and we were now
near Sunium or Cape Colonne and the coaft of Attica. We re-
gretted the approach of night, but the wind flackened, and in
the morning we could fee the mountains Hymettus and Pentele,
and the iſland Ægina, and Calaurea or Poro in the Saronique
gulf. At eleven we had a diſtinct view of the ruin of the temple
of Minerva Sunias on the promontory, and by the help of a re-
flecting teleſcope could count the number of the columns then
ftanding.
WE failed cloſe by the iſland Cea, which was of a parched
aſpect, with a few green trees on it ſcattered among inclofures,
wind-mills, and ſolitary churches or chapels. One of theſe, de-
dicated to St. Elias, ftands on the fummit of a high mountain.
We had a bright ſky, and the ſea, gently agitated by the wind,
reſembled a wide ſtream; but the tops of the mountains of An-
dros and of Euboea or the Negropont were enveloped in thick
clouds and awful darkneſs. We ſteered between the two iſlands,
and had a fine run in the night.
THE next morning we had paffed Pfyra, corruptly called Ipfera;
Scio was on our right hand; Lefbos or Mitylene on our left;
and the mouth of the gulf of Smyrna not very remote before
us. The Plague, as we were informed at Leghorn, having ap❤
peared at this place in the fpring, our captain was unwilling to
arrive there before it fhould have ceafed, and now refolved to
proceed directly to Conftantinople. The gale was fair, and the
opportunity too favourable to be neglected, it being common
in fummer to meet with a contrary wind, and to be detained on
the ſea or forced to anchor off Tenedos. We were oppofite Cape
Baba
B
IO
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
Baba or Lectos, a promontory of M. Ida, in the evening; and
had in view Tenedos and Lemnos and the main-land both of
Europe and Afia. We could difcern fires on Lefbos, as before
on ſeveral iſlands and capes, made chiefly by fiſhermen and
fhepherds, who live much abroad in the air; or to burn the
ſtrong ſtalks of the Turkey wheat and the dry herbage on the
mountains. In the day-time a column of ſmoke often afcends,
vifible afar.
SATURDAY, Auguft the twenty fifth, the fun rifing beauti
fully behind M. Ida diſcloſed its numerous tops, and bright-
ened the ſurface of the fea. We were now entering the Helle-
fpont, with the Troad on our right hand, and on the left the
Cherroneſe or peninfula of Thrace. About fix in the morning
we were within Sigéum and the oppofite promontory Maftufia.
They are divided by a very narrow ftrait. We then paffed between
the two caſtles erected by Mahomet the fourth in 1659. That on
the European fide ftands high, the other low; and by each is a
town. Theſe ſtructures, with the houſes, the graceful minarees
and cypreffes, the mountains, and iſlands, and ſhining water,
formed a view exceedingly delicious. The cocks crowed afhore,
and were anſwered by thofe in our coops on board, the waves
broke on the Afiatic beach with an amufing murmur, and the
foft air wafted fragrance.
WE now faw a level and extenfive plain, the ſcene, as we
conceived, of the battles of the Iliad, with barrows of heroes,
and the river Scamander, which had a bank or bar of fand at the
mouth. The ſtream was then inconfiderable, but, we were told,
is in winter frequently fwollen to a great fize, and difcolours the
fea far without the promontories. The fhore of the Cherronefe,
as we advanced, was ſteep, of a dry barren afpect, and con-
trafted by the Afiatic coaft, which rifes gently, M. Ida termi-
nating the view. The width of the Hellefpont, the ſmoothneſs
of the water, and the rippling of the current, reminded us of
the
"
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
II
1
the Thames. Xerxes but flightly degraded it, when he ſtiled it
a falt river.
1
WE now approached the inner caſtles, which were erected
by Mahomet the ſecond, and command a very narrow ſtrait, di-
viding the two continents. By each is a town; and at that in Aſia
was hoiſted a white flag, near the fea-fide, and alſo a red one
with the cross. Theſe belonged to the Engliſh and French na-
tions. As we had agreed to land here, the captain when we
were abreast with the Afiatic caftle, brought the fhip too, and
made a ſignal for a ſcheick or wherry to come along fide. Our
baggage was lowered into it with great expedition, and we quitted
the ſhip, which fired three guns, and failed away.
CHA P. IV.
Dinner
Turks defcribed - Reception on shore
river
The town
The fite of the two caftles afcertained-The night.
The
AFTER leaving the Anglicana, we had ſcarcely time to
contemplate the favage figures of our boat-men, who had their
necks and arms bare, and their faces yellow from the fun, be-
fore we reached land. The current carried us below the caſtle,
where we ſaw on the ſhore two Turkiſh women. But what
figures! each wrapped in a white ſheet, ſhapeleſs, and ſtalking
in boots. A company of Turks affembled on the beach to view
the ſhip, ſeemed as it were a new fpecies of human beings.
They were in general large and tall; fome with long, comely or
venerable beards, of a portly mein and noble preſence, to which
their high turbans and looſe garments, of various lively colours,
greatly contributed; adding, befides their majefty, to the appa-
rent bulk of the wearers.
B 2
WE
12
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
WE were received on the fhore by the Engliſh conful, a fat
well-looking Jew, who, after bidding us welcome in broken
Italian or Lingua Franca, conducted us through the town to his
houſe in the quarter affigned to that nation. We afcended fome
ftairs into a room, which had a raifed floor covered with a car-
pet. Round three fides was a low fopha with cuſhions for lean-
ing. The cooling breeze entered at the wooden lattices of the
windows. Their law not permitting the Jews to touch fire on
their fabbath, our host was in diftrefs about our entertainment.
However we were foon prefented with the customary refreſh-
ments, a pipe of lighted tobacco; a ſpoonful of ſweet-meat, put
into our mouths; and coffee in a China cup, which was placed
in one of filligree-work to prevent it from burning our fingers.
The conful then introduced to us a young man his brother, and
his wife and daughter; the latter a girl in a long white veft,
with a zone about her middle, her feet naked, her nails dyed
red, her hair platted and hanging down her back. She came
to us, and taking the right hand of each ſeparately, kiffed and
gently moved it to her forehead.
We found fome difficulty in complying with the oriental
mode of fitting cross-legged, but at dinner it was neceffary, the
table being only a large low falver, placed on the carpet. A va-
riety of diſhes were ſerved up in quick fucceffion, and we were
ſupplied as rapidly with cups of wine. We had no plates, or
knives and forks, but uſed our fingers. The whole repaft and
the apparatus was antique. It concluded with fruits of whol-
fome quality and exquifite flavour, figs and melons fuch as are
peculiar to hot climates, and grapes in large and rich clufters
freſh from the vineyard. The conful ate with us, while his bro-
ther waited, with another Jew. When we had finiſhed, we
waſhed, one of our attendants bringing an ewer, a bafon and a
towel, and pouring water on our hands. We then received each
a cup of coffee, and our hoft, who was much fatigued with his
fultry walk to the beach and afterwards to the governor to in-
form
}
#
TRAVELS IN ASIA
ASIA MINOR.
13
+
Į
1
form him of our arrival, retired with the whole family to fleep,
as is the univerſal practice toward noon, when the heat becomes
exceedingly intenſe,
In the evening we went with the conful to view the town.
We found the houſes numerous, moſtly of wood and mean, and
the ſtreets very narrow. We faw the manufactory of earthen
ware, which is confiderable; and we ſuppoſed the faſhion had
never altered, the jars and veffels in general retaining the old
fhapes, and feeming formed by antient models. The fituation of
the place is low and fubject to epidemical diſorders. Befides
theſe, the plague, which commonly viſits the inhabitants every
year, is remarkably deſtructive, and ſeldom fails to make a long
stay. The cœmeteries are ſwelled to a great extent round
the town, and filled with broken columns, pieces of granate,
and marble fragments, fixed as grave-ftones; fome carved
with Turkish characters in relievo, gilded and painted. In the
Armenian burying-ground we diſcovered a long Greek infcrip-
tion on a flab of white marble, but not legible. On a rocky
eminence on the fide next the Propontis is a range of wind-
mills.
THE town and caftle has on the fouth a river, which defcends
from M. Ida. Its fource, as we were told, is feven hours up in
the country; and its violence, after fnow or rain upon the fum-
mits, prodigious. A thick wall has been erected, and plane-
trees difpofed to keep off the torrent, and protect the buildings
from its affaults. At the mouth, like the Scamander, it had
then a bar of fand. The bed was wide, ftony, and interfected
with green thickets, but had water in the cavities, at which
many women, with their faces muffled, were bufy washing lin-
en, and ſpreading it on the ground to dry.
THIS river enables us to aſcertain the fite of the inner caftles,
a point of fome confequence in the topography of the Hellef-
pont. Its antient name, as appears from Strabo, was Rhodius;
and
+
14
MINOR.
TRAVELS IN ASIA
and it entered the fea between Dardanus and Abydos. The rem-
nants of marble, which we faw in the burying-grounds about
the town, have been removed thither chiefly from the ruins of
theſe cities, particularly of the latter, which was the moſt con-
fiderable. The conſul ſhowed us a head of an image of the Vir-
gin Mary, which was found in the rubbiſh of a church there.
On the European fide, oppofite to the Rhodius, was Cynoffema
The Barrow of Hecuba, which is ſtill very confpicuous, and within
or cloſe by the caſtle.
WE returned, when we had finiſhed our furvey, to our lodg-
ing, where we fupped croſs-legged, about funfet. Soon after,
when it was dark, three coverlets richly embroidered were taken
from a preſs in the room, which we occupied; and delivered,
one to each of us; the carpet or fopha and a cuſhion ſerving,
with this addition, inſtead of a bed. A lamp was left burning
on a ſhelf, and the conful retired to his family, which lay in the
fame manner in an adjoining apartment. We pulled off our coats
and ſhoes, and expected to be much refreſhed by fleeping on
ſhore. We had not been apprized of a nightly plague, which
haunts the place, or perhaps rather the houſes of the Jews. Two
of us could not obtain reſt for a moment, but waited the ap-
proach of dawn with a degree of impatience equalled only by
our bodily fufferings, which cannot be deſcribed.
Σ
{
'
{
CHA P. V.
We pass down the Hellefpont
The town antiently Eleûs
row &c. of Protefilaus.
Land in the cherronefe of Thrace
Civility of the governor
The bar-
WE had agreed in the evening to vifit fome neighbouring
places on the continent, with the principal iſlands near the
mouth of the Hellefpont. Early in the morning the conſul aſked
for
λ
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
15
2
for money to purchaſe proviſions, which, with other neceffaries,
were put into a ſcheick or wherry. He embarked with us, be-
tween the hours of eight and nine by our watches. We had fix
Turks, who rowed; a Janizary, and a Jew fervant. The two
latter, with the conful, fate croſs-legged before us, on a ſmall
carpet; as the rais or maſter of the boat did behind, ſteering with
the handle of the helm over his fhoulder.
WE foon croffed the Hellefpont, and coafting by the Euro-
pean fhore, ſaw feveral folitary king-fifhers, with young par-
tridge, among vaft fingle rocks. The winter torrents had worn
deep gullies, but the courſes were dry, except a ſtream, which
we were informed, turns a. mill. A narrow valley, or two,
was green with the cotton plant and with vines, or fowed with
grain.
AFTER paffing the mouth of a port or bay called antiently
Coelos, we landed about eleven on the cherronefe of Thrace,.
near the firſt European caftle, within the entrance of the Hel-
leſpont; and aſcended to the miſerable cottage of a poor Jew in
the town. Here a mat was ſpread on the mud-floor of a room
by the fea-fide, and the eatables we had provided, were placed
on it. The noon-tide heat at this place was exceffive. The
conful retired, as uſual, to fleep; while we alſo reſted, or were
amuſed with the proſpect from the window. Beneath us was the
ſhining canal, with Cape Maftufia on the right hand; and op-
pofite, the Afiatic town and caſtle, with the noble plain divided
by the Scamander; and the barrows mentioned before, two
ſtanding by each other not far from the fhore, within Sigéum,
and one more remote.
THE antient name of this town, which is exceedingly mean
and wretched, was Eleûs. The ſtreets or lanes are narrow and
intricate. It is on the north-fide of the caftle, and ranges along
the brink of a precipice.
WHEN
t
16
TRAVELS IN ASIA
ASIA MINOR.
+
WHEN the heat was abated a little, we were informed that
the governor gave us permiffion to refreſh in his garden. We
diſmiſſed his meffenger with a bac-ſhiſh or preſent of three pia-
fters', and an excufe, that we were just going away; but this
was not accepted; and we paid another piafter for feeing a very
ſmall ſpot of ground, walled in, and containing nothing, except
two vines, a fig and a pomegranate tree, and a well of excellent
water.
THE Turks, after we were landed, had rowed the wherry
round Maſtuſia, and waited for us without the point. In our
way to them, by the caſtle-wall, we ſaw a large Corinthian ca-
pital; and an altar, made hollow and uſed as a mortar for bruif-
ing corn. Near the other end of the town is a bare barrow. By
this, was formerly the facred portion of Protefilaus, and his tem-
ple, to which perhaps the marble fragments have belonged. He
was one of the leaders in the Trojan expedition; and was killed
by Hector. Afterwards he was worſhipped as a hero, and re-
puted the patron or tutelar deity of Eleûs.
Sail to Tenedos
CH A P. VI.
Situation and modern history of the iſland - The
port and town-The antiquities-Greek recreations-The night
The morning The conful returns.
ON our arrival at the wherry, which was behind the caftle,
we found our Turks fitting on the ground, where they had
dined, chiefly on ripe fruits, with ordinary bread. We had there
a wide and deep gulf, a portion of the Agean fea antiently called
1 A piaſter is about half a crown Engliſh, and is equal in value to thirty peraus.
Theſe are a ſmall filver coin, about the fize of an Engliſh penny.
Melas,
I
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
17
I
1
}
Melas, on our right hand; with Imbros, toward the entrance,
twenty five miles from Maftufia, and twenty two from Lemnos,
which lay before us; and beyond theſe, other iſlands, and the con-
tinent of Europe, in view. We had intended to vifit Lemnos, and
the principal places in that quarter, but, the wind proving con-
trary, we now fteered for Tenedos, and, after rowing fome time
with a rough fea, hoifted fail. We paffed by fome iflets, and
about three in the afternoon, reached the town. On opening
the harbour, we diſcovered in it, befides fmall-craft, three
Turkiſh gallies waiting to convey the Venetian bailow or refi-
dent, who was expected daily, to Conftantinople; the fhips of
that republic being by treaty excluded from navigating the Hel-
lefpont.
THE iiland Tenedos is chiefly rock, but fertile. It was an-
tiently reckoned about eighty ſtadia or ten miles in circumference,
and from Sigéum twelve miles and a half. Its pofition, thus near
the mouth of the Hellefpont, has given it importance in all ages 3
veffels bound toward Conftantinople finding ſhelter in its port,
or fafe anchorage in the road, during the etefian or contrary
winds, and in foul weather. The emperor Juftinian erected a ma-
gazine to receive the cargoes of the corn-fhips from Alexandria,
when detained there. This building was two hundred and eighty
feet long, ninety broad, and very lofty. The voyage from
Egypt was rendered lefs precarious, and the grain preferved, un-
til it could be tranfported to the capital. Afterwards, during
the troubles of the Greek empire, Tenedos experienced a variety
of fortune. The pirates, which infeſted theſe feas, made it for
many years their place of rendezvous; and Othman ſeized it in
1302, procured veffels, and from thence fubdued the other iſlands
of the Archipelago.
THE port of Tenedos has been incloſed in a mole, of which
no part now appears above water, but looſe ſtones are piled on
the foundations to break the waves. The bafin is encompaſſed
by a ridge of the mountain. On the fouth-fide is a row of wind-
*
C
mills
1
18
ASIA MINOR.
TRAVELS IN
mills and a fiall fort; and on the oppofite, a caſtle by the fhore.
This was taken in the year 1656 by the Venetians in four days,
but foon after abandoned, as not tenable. The houfes, which
are numerous, ftand at the foot, or on the flape, of an acclivity
with a flat between them and the fea, formed partly by foil
waſhed down from above. They reckon fix hundred Turkish
families, and three hundred Greek. The church belonging to -
the latter is decent.
WE found here but few remains of antiquity worthy notice.
We perceived on our landing a large and entire farcophagus or
ftone coffin ſerving as a fountain, the top-ftone or lid being per-
forated to admit a current of water, which fupplies the vent be-
low; and on one fide is an infcription. Near this we faw part of
a fluted column converted into a mortar for bruifing corn; and in
a ſhop was a remnant of teffellated pavement then recently diſco-
vered. In the ſtreets, the walls, and burying-grounds, were pieces
of marble, and fragments of pillars, with a few infcriptions.
In the evening, this being Sunday and a feftival, we were
much amuſed with feeing the Greeks, who were finging and
dancing, in feveral companies, to mufic, near the town; while
their women were fitting in groups on the roofs of the houſes,
which are flat, as fpectators, at the fame time enjoying the foft.
air and ferene fky.
We were lodged much to our fatisfaction in a large room,
with a raiſed floor matted, on which we flept in our clothes,
in company with two Jews and ſeveral Greeks; a cool breeze
entering all night at the latticed windows, and fweetening our
repofe.
IN theſe countries, on account of the heat, it is ufual to rife
with the dawn. About day-break we received from the French
conful, a Greek with a reſpectable beard, a prefent of grapes,
the cluſters large and rich, with other fruits all freſh gathered,
We
+
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 19
M
We had, befides, bread and coffee for break-faſt, and good
wines, particularly one fort, of an exquifite flavour, called muf-
cadell. The iſland is defervedly famous for the fpecies of vine
which produces this delicious liquor.
We had been told, that an antient building remained on the
fouth-fide of the island, not much out of our way to the ruins
of a city called Eſki-Stamboul, on the continent of Afia. Our
Turks were waiting at the boat, and we juſt ready to join them,
when we were informed that a ſcheick was arrived from the
Afiatic Dardanell, which we had lately left, and that the pre-
fence of the conful was required on fome very urgent buſineſs at
Conftantinople. His brother, who had fet fail in the morning
early to overtake him, remained with us in his ftead, and foon
won our regard by his attention and civility.
CHAP. VII.
Leave Tenedos --- An antiquity on the iſland --- Fountains
conftruction
continent.
Their
Their uſe Face of the iſland --- Set fail for the
AFTER fome delay we got on board our wherry, and leaving
the port of Tenedos, coafted, with the iſland on our right hand.
We foon paffed a creek, which is frequented by fmall-craft du-
ring the vintage, and has near it a folitary church with a foun-
tain or fpring of excellent water, and at ſome diſtance a quarry
of ftone or marble. The gullies and the flopes of the hills were
green with vines. We doubled a craggy point, and ſaw ſome
cliffs inhabited by wild pigeons; with fome partridges; a few
cattles and a church, by which, we were told, is a water noted
for its purgative qualities. We landed about ten on a fair beach,
having gone almoft half round the iſland.
*
C 2
WE
20
IN ASIA MINOR.
TRAVELS
1
{
We were now near the building, which we had purpoſed to
examine. It proved a ſmall arched room, the mafonry antient,
underneath a mean ruined church. You defcend to it by a few
ſteps, with a light. The floor was covered with water. Near
it was a fig tree or two, and a fountain, with an inſcription, in
modern Greek characters, fixed in the wall.
THE reader, as we proceed, will find frequent mention of
fountains. Their number is owing to the nature of the country
and the climate. The foil, parched and thirsty, demands moi-
ſture to aid vegetation; and a cloudleſs fun, which inflames the
air, requires for the people the verdure, ſhade, and coolneſs its
agreeable attendants. Hence they occur not only in the towns
and villages, but in the fields and gardens, and by the fides of
the roads and of the beaten tracks on the mountains. Many of
them are the uſeful donations of humane perfons, while living
or have been bequeathed as legacies on their deceaſe. The Turks
eſteem the erecting them as meritorious, and feldom go away,
after performing their ablutions or drinking, without gratefully
bleffing the name and memory of the founder.
THE method of obtaining the neceffary fupplies of water uſed
by the antients ftill prevails. It is by conveying the fluid from
the fprings or ſources, which are fometimes very remote, in
earthen pipes or paved channels, carried over the gaps and breaks
in the way on arches. When arrived at the deſtined ſpot, it is
received by a ciftern with a vent; and the wafte current paffes
below from another ciftern, often an antient farcophagus. It is
common to find a cup of tin or iron hanging near, by a chain;
or a wooden ſcoop with a handle, placed in a niche in the wall.
The front is of ſtone or marble; and in fome, painted and de-
corated with gilding, and with an inſcription in Turkiſh cha-
racters in relievo.
-
THE
1
43
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
21
*
THE women refort to the fountains by their houſes,
each with a large two-handled earthen jar on their back, or
thrown over the fhoulder, for water. They affemble at one
without the village or town, if no river be near, to waſh their
linen, which is afterwards fpread on the ground or bushes to
dry. To theſe alſo the Turks and Greeks frequently repair for
refreſhment; eſpecially the latter on their feftivals, when whole
families are ſeen fitting on the grafs, and enjoying their early or
evening repaft, beneath the trees by the fide of a rill. And at
thofe near the roads, the traveller, fun-burnt and thirsty, after
a fcorching ride, finds cool water, the fhelter of a plane or of
ſome ſpreading tree, and a green plat to repofe or dine on; af-
fording him a degree of pleaſure not adequately conceived, un-
leſs by thoſe who have experienced it.
3
WE agreed to let the heat of noon be paffed, before we pro-
ceeded on our voyage. A carpet was ſpread for us under a fhady
holm, and a fire kindled at fome diftance. We now received
each a lighted pipe and a diſh of coffee. A kettle was then filled
with water, and fome fowls, which we had provided, made
ready to be boiled. The French conful, who had joined us, un-
dertook to furniſh grapes. His vineyard was a confiderable way
off toward the town, but two of us, attended by a couple of
armed Turks, chofe to accompany him. We croffed a kind of
heath ſpread with wild thyme, fage, and low buſhes of maſtic,
to a ſpot ſhaded with cypreffes, where was a church as miferable
as that we had left, confifting only of looſe ſtones piled for walls,
without a roof. It had a well cloſe by. We faw a few trees,
ſome common ftubble, and fome fields of Turkey wheat, and
of fefamus. The foil was parched; but in the centre of the
iſland we found a large tract fheltered by naked barren hills,
and green with olive-trees and with vines. The grapes hung in
numerous cluſters, rich and tempting; and we ate freely, being
affured the fruit was innocent and even wholſome, eſpecially if
plucked before the air within it was rarified by the fun. In
about.
។
22
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
about a fortnight the vintage was to commence, when a guard of
ten Turks is placed to fecure the property from pilferers or pi-
rates. Among the hills, one towers far above the reft, and has
on its fummit a church or chapel dedicated to St. Elias. The
form is conical, and it is feen over the main-land of Afia coming
down the Hellefpont.
ON our return to the tree we found the company there had
been uneafy at our abfence, fearing we had ftrayed or were de-
tained by fome untoward accident. We dined and flept in the
ſhade; and foon after, the French conful took leave of us. About
two in the afternoon we failed with a briſk gale, teering for
Eſki-Stamboul, antiently called Alexandria Troas. The diftance
of this city from Tenedos was reckoned forty ftadia or five miles.
Some of its ruins are in view, ſtanding on an eminence, with the
uneven ſummits of Mount Ida rifing beautifully behind.
CHAP. VIII.
Flight of cranes --- View of Alexandria Troas --- Return to our
boat Mount Athos Manner of paffing the night --- Way
back to the ruins.
ON the way from Tenedos we were amufed by vaft caravanš
or companies of cranes, paffing high in the air from Thrace to
winter, as we ſuppoſed, în Egypt. We admired the number and
variety of the fquadrons, their extent, orderly array, and appa-
rently good difcipline. About a quarter after three we landed
near the antient port of Troas.
WE immediately began a curfory furvey of this deferted
place; afcending to the principal ruin, which is at fome diftance
from the thore. The whole fite was overfpread with ſtones and
rubbiſh intermingled with ſtubble, plantations of cotton and of
Turkey
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
J
23
Turkey wheat, plats of long dry grafs, thickets and trees, chiefly
a fpecies of low oak which produces valanea or large acorns for
exportation, to be uſed in tanning. A folemn filence prevailed,
and we ſaw nothing alive, but a fox and fome partridges. In the
mean time, the Turks, who were left in the wherry, removed
about three miles lower down, towards Lectos, where the beach
afforded a ſtation lefs expoſed to the wind and more ſecure.
THE evening coming on, we were advised to retire to our
boat. By the way, we faw a drove of camels feeding. We came
to a ſhed, formed with boughs round a tree, to ſhelter the flocks
and herds from the fun at noon; and under it was a peafant,
who had an afs laden, befides other articles, with a goatſkin
containing four curds, called Caimas. On thefe and fome brown
bread our Turks made their evening meal. A goatſkin, with the
hair on, ſerved likewife for a bucket. It was diftended by a piece
of wood, to which a rope was faftened. He drew for us water
from a well not far off, and promiſed to bring us milk and a
kid the next day. We found our cook, a Jew, bufy by the ſea-
fide preparing fupper; his tin-kettle boiling over a fire, in the
open air.
THE beauty of the evening in this country furpaſſes all de-
fcription. The ſky glowed with the rich tints of the ſetting fun,
which now, fkirting the weſtern horizon, raiſed as it were up
to our view the diftant fummits of the European mountains.
We faw Mount Athos diftinctly, bearing from us 55". weft of
north, of a conical form, and fo lofty, that on the top, as the
antients relate, the fun-rifing was beheld four hours fooner than
by the inhabitants of the coaft; and, at the folftice, its fhade
reached into the Agora or Market-place of Myrina a town in
Lemnos, which iſland was diſtant eighty feven miles eaſtward.
The ſhore was ftrewed with pumice-ftones, once perhaps float-
ing from Etna or Vefuvius, unleſs ejected by fome nearer Vol-
cano. The pikes of Athos and of Tenedos fuggeft the idea, that
their mountains have burned;, and it is poffible, that theſe, with
many
}
24
IN ASIA MINOR.
TRAVELS
many of the iſlands in this fea, may have been the produce of
eruptions, which happened at a period too early to be recorded
in hiſtory.
We had here no choice, but were forced to paſs the night on
the beach, which was fandy. The Turks conftructed a half-tent
for us near our boat, with the oars and fail. We now diſcovered
that we had neglected to procure wine and candles at Tenedos.
We did not, however, remain in the dark. An extemporary lamp
ſupplied one omiffion. It was a cotton-wick ſwimming in oil, on
a bit of cork, in a drinking-glaſs fufpended by a ftring. By this
light, the Turks, fitting before us on the ground, cross-legged,
endeavoured to amufe us, by teaching us the numbers in their
language, or by learning them in Engliſh. Some defired us to
diſtinguiſh each by his name, Mahmet, Selim, Mustapha and the
like. They were liberal of their tobacco, filling their pipes from
their bags, lighting and preſenting them to us, as often they faw
us unprovided. Our janizary, who was called Baructer Aga,
played on a Turkiſh inſtrument like a guittar: Some accompa-
nied him with their voices, finging loud. Their favourite ballad
contained the praiſes of Stamboul or Conftantinople. Two, and
fometimes three or four, danced together, keeping time to a
lively tune, until they were almoſt breathlefs. Theſe extraordi-
nary exertions were followed with a demand of bac-ſhiſh, a re-
ward or prefent; which term from its frequent ufe, was already
become very familiar to us. We were fatigued by our rough hot
walk among the ruins, and growing weary of our favages, gladly
laid down to reft under the half-tent. The Turks flept by us
upon the ground, with their arms ready in cafe of an alarm,
except two, who had charge of the boat. The janizary, who
watched, fate ſmoking, croſs-legged, by the fire. The ftars
ſhone in a clear blue ſky, ſhedding a calm ferene light; the
jackalls howled in vaft packs, approaching near us, or on Mount
Ida; and the waves beat gently on the fhore in regular fuc-
ceffion,
+
}
WE
{
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
25
WE roſe with the dawn, ready dreffed, hoping to get to the
ruins in the cool of the morning. It was neceffary to take water
with us, as none could be procured there. A well, by which
the peaſant had agreed to leave his bucket for our uſe, with his
afs, was known only to the janizary, and we reſolved to accom-
pany him to the place, rather than wait for his return. Some
of the Turks carried an umbrella for us, an earthen jar, and
inftruments for meaſuring or drawing, After going about half
a mile by the fea toward Lectos, we turned to the left, and
croffing the plain, and two water-courſes, one of which was
not quite dry, came to a root of Mount Ida, and a vineyard.
We entered, and ſaw nobody, but gathered as many grapes as
we choſe, and loading the aſs with our luggage, repaffed the
plain to the great ruin at Troas, diftant about an hour. Some
peaſants were employed in a field of Turkey wheat on the way,
and their dogs worried us exceedingly.
tion
CHA P. IX.
Policy of Alexander the Great --- Alexandria Troas --- Its fitua-
Ports ---Appearance Remains --- Inſcriptions --- The
Aquæduct --- Account of it ---Of Atticus Herodes--- No churches
vifible --- The marbles removed.
ALEXANDER the Great, inſtead of marking his progreſs
by devaſtations, wifely provided more lafting and honourable
monuments of his paffage through the countries which he ſub-
dued; caufing cities and temples to be erected, and forming
plans for their improvement and future profperity. As his ftay
was commonly fhort, the execution of his noble defigns was
committed to the governors, whom he appointed; men of grand
ideas, fitted to ferve fo magnificent a maſter. Alexandria Troas
was one of eighteen cities, which bore his name.
D
THIS
26
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
+
*
THIS city was begun by Antigonus, and from him first called
Antigonia; but Lyfimachus, to whom, as a fucceffor of Alexan-
der, it devolved, changed the appellation in honour of the de-
ceafed king. In the war with Antiochus it was eminent for its
fidelity to the Romans, who conferred on it the fame privileges.
as the cities of Italy enjoyed. Under Auguftus, it received a
Roman colony, and increaſed. It was then the only confider-
able place between Sigéum and Lectos, and was inferior to no
city of its name but Alexandria in Egypt.
ALEXANDRIA Troas was feated on a hill, floping toward the
fea, and divided from M. Ida by a deep valley. On each fide is
an extenſive plain, with water-courfes The founders, it is pro-
bable, were aware, that, like Tenedos, it would derive many
advantages from its fituation on the coaft, near the mouth of the
Hellefpont.
THE port of Troas, by which we landed, has a hill rifing
round it in a ſemicircle, and covered with rubbiſh. Many ſmall
granate pillars are ſtanding, half buried, and much corroded by
the fpray. It is likely the veffels were faftened to them by ropes.
A fand-bank at the entrance had cut off the communication with
the ſea, and the ſmaller bafin was dry. The larger had water,
but apparently ſhallow. Its margin was incrufted with ſponta-
neous falt. Both were artificial, and intended for fmall-craft and
gallies; fhips of burthen anchoring in the road without the
mole.
THE city-wall is ſtanding, except toward the vineyard, but
with gaps, and the battlements ruined. It was thick and folid,
had fquare towers at regular diftances, and was feveral miles in
circumference. Befides houfes, it has inclofed many magnificent
ftructures; but now appears as the boundary of a foreft or neg
lected park. A map belonging to Mr. Wood, and made, as we
ſuppoſed by a Frenchman, in 1726, ferved us as a guide. The
author,
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
27
1
author, it is imagined, believed, as other travellers had done,
that this was the fite of Ilium or Troy, inftead of Troas.
CONFUSION cannot eafily be defcribed. Above the ſhore is
a hollow, overgrown with trees, near which Pocock faw remains
of a ftadium or place for races, funk in the ground; and higher
up is the vaulted ſubſtruction or baſement of a large temple. We
were told this had been lately a lurking-place of banditti; who
often lay concealed here, their horfes tied in rows to wooden
pegs, of which many then remained in the wall. It now fwarm-
ed with bats, much bigger in ſize than the Engliſh, which on
our entering, flitted about, innumerable; and fettling, when
tired, blackened the roof. Near it is a fouterrain; and at fome
diſtance, veftiges of a theatre and of an odeum, or Mufic Theatre.
Theſe edifices were toward the centre of the city. The femicir-
cular ſweep, on which their ſeats ranged, is formed in the hill,
with the ends vaulted. Among the rubbiſh, which is of great
extent, are a few ſcraps of marble and of ſculpture, with many
fmall granate pillars. But the principal ruin is that ſeen from
Tenedos. This has before it a gentle deſcent, with inequalities,
to the fea diſtant by computation about three miles. It was a
very ample building, and, as we fuppofed, once the gymnafium.
It conſiſts of three maffive arches, towering amid walls and a vaſt
heap of huge materials. They are conftructed with a ſpecies of
ſtone, which is full of petrified cockle-fhells, and of cavities,
like honey-comb. The piers have capitals and mouldings of
white marble, and the whole fabric appears to have been in-
crufted. Some remnants of the earthen ſpouts or pipes are vifi-
ble. On one fide is a ruin of brick; and behind, without the
city-wall, are fepulchres. One of theſe is of the maſonry called
Reticulated or Netted.
A city diſtinguiſhed and flouriſhing by Roman favour would
not be tardy in paying the tribute of adulation to its bene-
factors. The peaſant ſhowed me a marble pedeſtal inſcribed
in-Latin, the characters large, plain, and well-formed. We
D 2
found
28
MINOR.
TRAVELS IN ASIA
+
}
found near this, two other pedeſtals, one above half buried in
rubbish, but the Turks cleared the front with their fabres to the
eighth line. All three were alike and had the fame inſcription,
except fome flight variations. They had been erected by
different cities in honour of Caius Antonius Rufus, flamen or
high-prieft of the god Julius and of the god Auguftus. A maim-
ed trunk, which we faw, was perhaps one of the ftatues; and
it is probable the baſement before noted belonged to the temple
dedicated to the deities whom he ferved, or to the goddeſs Rome,
Theſe marbles are about mid-way between the gymnaſium and
the beach. A Venetian officer afterwards informed us, that he
had removed one of them on board his ſhip, then in the gulf of
Smyrna, by order of the captain, while they lay at anchor near
Tenedos, waiting for the bailow, whofe time of refidence at
Conftantinople was expired.
We made diligent ſearch for inſcriptions, but found only the
above, and a ſmall fragment of a pedeſtal on which Hadrian iş
mentioned. Under this emperor the aquæduct was erected. It
begins behind the city, not far from the fepulchres, and is ſeen
deſcending and croffing the country on the fide next the Hel-
lefpont, extending feveral miles. The piers, which we mea-
fured, are five feet nine inches wide; three feet and two inches
thick: the void between them, twelve feet and four inches. The
arches are all broken.
1
THE hiſtory of this noble and once uſeful ſtructure affords an
illuftrious inftance of antient imperial and private munificence. An
Athenian, Tiberius Claudius Atticus Herodes, prefided over the
free cities of Afia. Seeing Troas deftitute of commodious baths,
and of water, except fuch as was procured from muddy wells or
reſervoirs made to receive rain, he wrote to the emperor Hadrian
not to ſuffer an antient and maritime city to be deſtroyed by
drought, but to beſtow on it three hundred myriads of drachms
for water, eſpecially as he had given far greater fums even to
villages
F
}
TRAVELS. IN ASIA MINOR.
29
villages. Hadrian readily complied, and appointed him overfeer
of the building. The expence exceeded ſeven hundred myriads',
and it was reprefented to the emperor as a grievance, that the
tribute from five hundred cities had been laviſhed on one in an
aquæduct. Herodes, in reply, begged him not to be diſpleaſed,
that having gone beyond his eſtimate, he had preſented the over-
plus of the fum to his ſon, and he to the city.
WE fhall have occafion to mention Atticus Herodes again,
and his name will occur often in the account of our travels in
Greece. His grandfather Hipparchus had been accuſed of ty-
ranny, his eſtate confifcated, and his fon Julius Atticus reduced
to poverty. Julius diſcovered a treaſure in one of the houſes,
which belonged to him by the theatre at Athens. The quantity
was ſo great, that his apprehenfion exceeded his joy, and he
wrote to Nerva the emperor, defiring to know his pleaſure con-
cerning it. Nerva replied "ufe, what you have found;" and,
on a freſh application, "abuſe if you will, what Mercury has
given you." Julius, thus poffeffed of unexpected affluence,
married a wife with a vaſt dowry. His riches were inhe-
rited by their fon Herodes, who was born at Marathon, care-
fully educated under the moſt eminent maſters, and became
fo famous for learning and extemporary eloquence, that perhaps
no ſophiſt ever furpaffed him in brilliancy of reputation. He
was raiſed to the firſt dignities of Athens, and to the confulate
with Torquatus at Rome in the year of our Lord one hundred
and forty three. His generofity equalled his wealth, and was
as extenfive as noble. Many temples were enriched by his mag-
nificent offerings. His coftly buildings adorned Afia, Greece,
and Italy. Statues were erected to him, and the cities vied with
each other in extolling their common benefactor. Several of them
ftill retain monuments of his fplendor, and records of his libe-
rality.
¹ Five hundred myriads amount to 1614587. 65. 8d. Engliſh.
2
*
#
THE
30
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
1
►
THE chriftian religion was planted early at Troas. In the
beginning of the fifth century, the bishop, Silvanus, was re-
quired to deliver à veffel from a dæmon, which was believed to
detain it, as it could not be launched. It was intended for tranf-
porting large columns and was of great fize. Going down to the
beach he prayed, and taking hold of a rope, called on the mul-
titude to affiſt, when the fhip readily obeyed him, and hurried
into the fea. But the churches have been fo long demolished,
that the traces of them are uncertain.
THE defolation of this place was begun, and probably com-
pleted, before the extinction of the Greek empire. Many houſes
and public ſtructures at Conftantinople have fince been raiſed
with its materials. We found only a few inconfiderable remnants
of white marble by the gymnafium, where formerly was a vaſt
heap. Some pieces in the water by the port, and two large
granate columns were perhaps removed to the ſhore to be ready
for embarkation. The magazine is yet far from exhaufted. The
name Troas was not become obfolete in the
An accident
CHA P. X.
CHAP.
year 1389.
At the vineyard --- In want of provifions --- Are
joined by the owner of the vineyard In fear of banditti.
WE employed the first day at Troas in taking a plan and
two views of the principal ruin. We dined under a ſpreading
tree before the arcade, and had just refumed our labour, when
we were almoft reduced to fly with precipitation. One of the
Turks, coming to us, emptied the aſhes from his pipe, and a
fpark of fire fell unobferved in the grafs, which was long, parch-
ed by the fun, and inflammable like tinder. A briſk wind ſoon
kindled a blaze, which withered in an inſtant the leaves of
the
h
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
31
the bushes and trees in its way, feized the branches and roots,
and devoured all before it with prodigious crackling, and noiſe,
and with a thick fmoke; leaving the ground black and the ftones
hot. We were much alarmed, as a general conflagration of the
country feemed likely to enfue. The Turks with their fabres cut
down boughs, and we all begun buffetting the flames, which
were at length fubdued; the ruins fomewhat retarding their pro-
grefs and enabling us to combat them more effectually. The
ſtruggle laſted about an hour, and a confiderable tract of ground
was laid waste. Clofe by was an area with dry matted grafs,
where no exertion could have delayed for a moment, but the fire
muſt have acquired a maſtery, and have ravaged uncontroled,
until repelled by the wind. The janizary ſignalized his prowess
in this engagement. The fun shone exceedingly hot, and we
were all covered with fmoke, and fmut.
In the evening we returned to the vineyard, and found our
cook, with two or three of the Turks, bufy in a hovel, roafting
a kid on a wooden ſpit or ſtake. We fate down with our Jew
and janizary; and the fleſh proved excellent. Our table was a
mat on the ground, beneath a fpreading vine. Our men formed
a like group at a little diftance from us. Soon after we fell aſleep,
and the ſtarry heaven was our canopy.
EARLY in the morning the aſs was loaded again. We paffed
the day at the ruins, with fome diſcontent from keen appetites
not duly gratified. The wine and provifions, which we ex-
pected from Tenedos, did not arrive in time; and the peafant,
whom we had ſent to a village named Chemali, could procure
only a couple of fowls, with fome eggs, which he broke in
bringing. This accident compelled our Jews to faft, their law
not permitting them to eat of what we had, and which ſupplied
us with a very fcanty meal.
AFTER completing our furvey as well as the prudent caution
of our Jew and Turks would permit, we returned to the vine-
yard,
1
32
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
yard, where we now found the owner, a man with a venerable
beard. We converfed with him, our Jew ferving us as an in-
terpreter. He was a ſtone-cutter, and fhowed us a pestle and
mortar, as fpecimens of his abilities; with a mutilated head of
a female ſtatue; a piece of load-ſtone; and a parcel of medals,
among which was a fmall Trajan, with a horſe feeding on the
reverſe, and the legend Co.L. A v G. on the exergue TRA
or Colonia Augufta Troas. He had alſo the ſtone of a ring, of a
ΔΗ
ኣ
red colour, infcribed MHTPI of Demetrius; and a brown one,
ΟΥ
with a lion tearing a bull.
BOTH our Jew and janizary had expreffed more than once
a diffidence of our fafety. Our fire-arms had been all regularly
inſpected; and this evening in particular our men betrayed plain
ſymptoms of uneafineſs and apprehenfion, which we imputed to
ſome intelligence of banditti not remote from us, given them
by our new companion.
+
Invited to Chemali ---
at Chemali
CHA P. XI.
We fet out on foot ---The hot-baths --- Arrive
Remains of antiquity
Once Colona.
WHEN we lay by the fea-fide, we had obferved a fire blaz-
ing on an eminence before us, or toward Lectos. We were told,
it was a fignal for a boat defigned to be laden clandeftinely with
corn, the exportation of which is prohibited under fevere pe-
nalties. One of the men had approached and viewed us with a
degree of attention, which we diſliked; the people of this dif-
trict bearing a very bad character. At midnight the Aga of
Chemali, who was concerned in this contraband bufinefs, had
come prancing along the ſhore with two Turks, armed, on long-
tailed
}
33
TRAVELS IN
IN ASIA MINOR.
་
tailed horſes, to enquire who we were. The janizary entertained
him apart by the fire with a pipe and coffee, after which he
mounted and galloped back, leaving us an invitation to fee an
old building at his village. Our hoft informed us, that by the way
were hot baths worthy our notice, and that Chemali was diftant
about two hours north-eaftward. This mode of computing by
time prevails univerfally in thefe countries, and is taken from
the caravans, which move an uniform pace, about three or four
miles in an hour.
In the morning, after breakfaſting on grapes, figs, white honey
in the comb, and coffee, we fet out in a body for the village, a
Turk.or two remaining with the boat, and our janizary, whofe
right eye was inflamed, at the vineyard. We entered a narrow
track worn by camels, the fand deep and loofe; and faw feveral
of theſe animals fingle, lying down, feeding with their burthens
on their backs, or moving penfively in a long train, the leader
mounted on a low afs: and alfo a flock of goats, and a few ſheep
and oxen. We came to a river, which winds from the valley
behind Troas, and has been mentioned before. The ftream here
was now ſhallow, but abounded in ſmall fiſh. It had overflowed
nearer the fea, and formed a little marfh.
THE hot ſpring rifes in the flope of the hill of Troas, about
four miles from the fhore; its Bearing 30". fouth of weſt.
The bed reſembles rufty iron in colour, and the edges were in-
crufted with white falt. After running a few paces, it enters a
bafin, about nine feet fquare, within a mean hovel roofed with
boughs. This is the bath appropriated to women. In a gully
there, Farenheit's thermometer rofe to 113. The current paſs-
ing from hence unfeen is admitted by channels into another ba-
fin. In this the thermometer rofe to 110; and in two fmall
veins to 130 and 142. It was before in the air and fhade at 82.
The water has the colour of whey; the taſte is brackiſh; and
this quality it communicates to the river below. We fuppofed
it to be ſtrongly impregnated by iron-ore. One of the bafins
E
was
34
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
was choked up in 1610; and not long ago, we were told, the ſpring
had entirely diſappeared for nine years, after an earthquake.. Is
is, reckoned very efficacious in the rheumatism, the leprofy, and
all cutaneous diſorders. They firſt fcour the fkin by rolling in
the bed of the river, which is a fine fand, and full of holes of
cavities, like graves, made for the body. By each incloſure is
a ſhed, where they fleep, after bathing. In the court-wall of one,
is inferted the trunk of a large ftatue; and higher on the hill.
are the ruins and veftiges of the antient fepulchres of Alexandria
Troas.
WE Croffed the river again, and in fifteen minutes entered:
among
the roots of Mount Ida, which hitherto had been on our
right hand, but now faced us. We had an extenfive view of
the country, and from one fummit the pike of Tenedos bore. 3,0m
weft of north. The tops of the mountain are; innumerable.
New ones arofe continually before us, as we advanced; and low
oaks and buſhes are interfperfed among the vaſt naked rocks..
Coming near Chemali, we faw feveral wind-mills; Turkey-
wheat ſtanding; and on the ſlopes of the hills,, a few vineyards.
The men were at work abroad, but the door-ways of the clay-
cottages were filled with women,, their faces muffled, and with
children, looking at us. Our men purchaſed of them ſome me-
lons, with eggs, which, they, fried in, oil..
$
*
THE mofque, which, we had, taken this long walk, to, examine,
inſtead, of proving, as we had hoped, fome antient, building or
temple, contained nothing to reward, our labour. The portico,
under which we ſtopped,, is fupported by broken, columns, and
in the walls are marble, fragments. The door is carved with
Greek characters exceedingly complicated. We ſuppoſed, it had,
formerly been a church. In the court was a plain chain of mar
ble, almoſt entire; and under the poſt of a ſhed, a pedeſtal, with,
a moulding cut along one fide, and an infcription in Latin,,
which ſhows it once belonged, to a ftatue of Nero, nephew off.
the emperor Tiberius. Many fcraps, of Greek and Latin oc-
P
cur
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
35
cur in the old burying-grounds, which are very extenſive. We
faw more marble about this inconfiderable village, than at
Troas.
COLONA, the Hills, was a town on the continent oppofite to
Tenedos. Antigonus removed the inhabitants to Troas, but the
place was not entirely abandoned. It feems to have recovered
under the Romans, and has furvived the new city; ftill, as may
-be collected from the fite and marbles, lingering on in the
Turkiſh village Chemali.
CHA P. XII.
S11
Coaſt by Alexandria Troas --- Enekioi ---
Enekioi --- Giaurkiói or Sigéum
Site of the Ghurch --- Account of Sigéum The famous Sigéan
ſtone part of a pilafter --- The difpofition of the lines on it
Age of the firft infcription
the Greek alphabet
Second - Lies neglected.
کو
- Of
Age of the
FROM Chemali we returned to the vineyard, purpoſing to
embark as foon as poffible, the danger from banditti increafing
with our ſtay in theſe parts, which had already produced a ge-
neral uneafinefs; but finding the wind ftrong and contrary, we
went back to the hot baths with our thermometer, which we
had not taken with us before. In the mean time, the Aga of
Chemali fent word, that he defigned vifiting us in the evening,
and defired our acceptance of a kid. His men, however, had
carried off the intended prefent, on hearing from the janizary
that we were going away. We were glad to avoid ſeeing him,
as we expected he would prove but a troubleſome gueſt. We
haſtened to get on board, coafted by Alexandria Troas in the
dufk; and after rowing about five miles, landed, and ſlept on
the beach. The folemn night was rendered yet more awful by
the melancholy howlings of numerous jackalls, hunting, as we
fuppofed, their prey.
E 2
WE
36
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
WE embarked again three hours before day, and rowed by a
bold rocky ſhore until near feven. We then landed at Enekioi,
or New Town, now a Greek village, fo miferable, as fcarcely to
furniſh grapes, wine, eggs and oil to fry them, fufficient for our
breakfaſt. It ſtands very high, and has been more confiderable.
By the church-door is a Latin fepulchral inſcription, and Pliny
mentions a town in the Troad, called Nea, or New Town, which
perhaps was on this, fpot. There was an image of Minerva, on
which no rain ever fell; and it was faid that facrifices left there
did not putrefy.
WE left Enekioi, and landed again about midday on the
beach without the Hellefpont, not far from the Sigéan promon-
tory, and afcended by a steep track to Giauṛkioi a Greek vil-
lage, once Sigéum, high above the fea, and now reſembling
Enekioi in wretchedneſs as well as in fituation. We were here
accommodated with a ſmall apartment in one of the cottages,
but it required caution to avoid falling through the floor. The
family to which it belonged was as poor as oppreffed. The thin-
voiced women fcolding and howling in the court, we enquired
the reaſon, and were told, they had paid a piaſter for the privi-
lege of keeping a hog; that the Turk, who collected this mo-
ney for the Aga, demanded ten Peraus as his fee, that they were
unable or unwilling to gratify him, and he was carrying the fon
to priſon.
THE city Sigéum ftood antiently on a flope oppofite to the
part where we afcended. The high hill of Giaurkioi was the
acropolis or citadel: and a mean church on the brow, toward
Mount Ida, occupies the fite of the Atheneum or temple of
Minerva; of which the fcattered marbles by it are remains.
The famous Sigéan infcription lies on the right hand, as you
enter it; and on the left is part of a pedeſtal, of fine white
marble,
篓
​TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
37
1
ג +
marble, with ſculpture in baffo-relievo'; of which the ſubjec
is the preſentation of young children, with the accuſtomed of-
ferings, to Minerva. Within the fame building was found a mar-
ble, once repofited in the precincts of the temple, and now pre-
ferved in the library of Trinity college in Cambridge. It con-
tains a decree made by the Sigéans two hundred and ſeventy
eight years before the chriſtian aera; and enacts, among other
articles, the erecting in the temple an equeſtrian ſtatue of king
Antiochus on a pedeſtal of white marble, with an inſcription,
in which his religious regard for the temple is mentioned, and
he is ſtiled the faviour of the people. It remained on the ſpot
to the year 1718, when it was purchaſed of the Papas or Greek
prieſt by Edward Wortley Montague efqr, then going embaffa-
dor to Conſtantinople. The place in the wall, from which it was
removed, is ftill visible.
THE City Sigéum was founded by the Mitylenéans of Lefbos.
The Athenians ſeized it under Phryno. Pittacus failed after him,
and was defeated in a battle. It was then the poet Alcæus fled,
throwing away his fhield, which the Athenians fufpended in the
temple. Periander of Corinth was chofen umpire. The Mityle-
néans afterwards recovered Sigéum, but it was taken from them
by Pififtratus, who made his fon Hegefiftratus tyrant there. The
Iliéans then got poffeffion of it, and by them it was fubverted,
perhaps about the time of Antiochus, as the name of the Sigéan
people has been purpofely erafed in the decree above-men-
tioned.
THE temple at Sigéum was of remote antiquity, if not coeval
with the city, which is faid to have been built from the ruins
of Troy. The Iliéans probably ſpared that edifice from a reve-
rence for the deity, or no fragments would have now remained.
The celebrated infcription is on part of a pilafter, eight feet ſe-
1 It is about five feet nine inches long. See Lady Mary W. Montague. Letter
XLIV, and a plate in the Ionian Antiquities.
ven
3
38
ASIA
TRAVELS IN
MINOR.
ASIA 1
фор
ven inches long; one foot and fomething more than fix inches
wide, and above ten inches thick. It is broken at the bottom.
In the top is a hole three inches and a half long, three wide,
and above two deep. This ferved to unite it firmly with the up-
per portion, or the capital, by receiving a bar of metal, a cuf-
tomary mode of conſtruction, which rendered the fabric as folid
as the materials were durable. The ftone was given to the tem-
ple, as appears from the inſcription on it, by Phanodicus of
Proconnefus, a city and ifland not far from Sigéum, famous for
its quarries of marble. Such donations were common, and we
ſhall have occafion to mention ſeveral.
THE lines in both infcriptions range from the left to the right,
and from the right to the left, alternately. This mode of difpo-
fition was called Bouftrophédon, the lines turning on the marble
as oxen do in ploughing. It was uſed before Periander; and by
Solon the Athenian lawgiver, his contemporary.
THE Greek alphabet, as imported by Cadmus from Phoe-
nicia', confifted of fixteen letters. Palamedes, the rival of
Ulyffes, who was put to death in the Greek camp before. Troy,
added four. Simonides of Ceos increaſed the number to twenty
four. This perfon was a favourite of Hipparchus, brother of
Hegefiftratus the tyrant of Sigéum, and lived with him at
Athens.
WE may infer from the firſt inſcription on the pilafter that
Phanodicus and the temple, to which he contributed, exiſted
before the improvement made by Simonides, for it exhibits only
Cadméan and Palamedéan characters: and alſo that the structure
was raiſed under the Mitylenéans, for it is in their dialect or the
Aeolian.
1 See Chiſhull's learned Commentary.
}
THE
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
39
1
THE fecond infcription has the letters of Simonides, and was
engraved under the Athenians, as may be collected from its
Atticiſms; and, it is likely, about the time of Hegefiftratus;
the method of arranging the lines not being changed, nor the
memory of the perfon, whom it records, if he were not then
living, become obſolete.
WE copied theſe infcriptions very carefully, and not without
deep regret, that a ſtone fo fingularly curious, which has pre-
ſerved to us a ſpecimen of writing antiquated above two thou-
fand years ago, ſhould be fuffered to lie fo neglected and expoſed.
Above half a century has elapfed, fince it was firft diſcovered,
and it ſtill remains in the open air, a feat for the Greeks, deſti-
tute of a patron to reſcue it from barbariſm, and obtain its re-
moval into the fafer cuftody of fome private mufeum; or, which
is rather to be defired, fome public repofitory.'.
I
It is to be wiſhed that. a. premium were offered, and the undertaking recom-
mended to commanders of ſhips in the Levant trade. They have commonly inter-
preters to negotiate for them, with men, leavers, ropes, and the other requifites.
befides inftruments or tools, by which the ftone might be broken, if neceffary. By
a¹ proper application of all prevailing gold, it is believed they might gain the per-
miffion or connivance of the papas and perfons concerned. It ſhould be done with
fecrefy. The experiment is eaſily made, when they are at Tenedos, or wind-bound
near the mouth of the Hellefpont.
1
}
CHA P.
1
1
}
40
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
CHA P.
XIII
$
At Giaurkioi.
Profpect of the plain
Farther account of it
News of the conful --- Our plan diſconcerted --- The evening
Barrows, of Achilles &c. --- At Chomkali.
IT was Saturday when we arrived at Giaurkioi, and our
Jews were prohibited by their Law from going out of the vil-
lage. Our janizary had bound over his eye, which was much
inflamed, a piece of empty honey comb, and the yolk of a boiled
egg, but neither recipe had relieved his torture. Our mariners,
except one or two, were employed in rowing the boat to Chom-
kali, the town by the Afiatic caftle; the place, where we had
landed, being expofed to winds, and infecure from the force and
rapidity of the current. Some Turks of Chomkali vifited our
companions. Their converſation, as was evident, turned on us,
our dreſs, manners, and purfuits, which must have appeared to
them ſtrange and unaccountable. They were fond of hearing us
repeat the words of their language, which we had learned, and
called for this diſplay of our talents fo often, that we began to
think them troubleſome and impertinent.
FROM the brow by the church we had in view feveral bar-
rows, and a large cultivated plain, parched, and of a ruffet co-
lour, excepting fome plantations of cotton. On it were flocks
of ſheep and of goats; oxen treading out corn; droves of cattle
and horſes, ſome feeding, others rolling in the wide bed, which
receives the Scamander and Simois united. Near the mouth of
the river was lively verdure, with trees; and on the fame fide
as Sigéum, the caſtle and Chomkali; above which, by the water,
were many women, their faces muffled, waſhing linen, or ſpread-
ing it to dry; with children playing on the banks.
WHEN
A
!
ས
+
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
41
WHEN the heat of noon had fubfided, a moor or black, who
was known to our janizary, with one of our Turks, armed,
was ready to attend us. We defcended from the church into
the plain, and croffing the river above the women, to avoid
giving offence, walked about two hours up into the country.
We faw in this ramble fome villages confifting of a few huts;
and were worried more than once by the dogs, which are kept
to guard the flocks and herds from wild beaſts. They were very
fierce, and not eafily repelled by our muffelmen. The ground
in many places appeared to have been ſwampy, and had channels
in it worn by floods and torrents. The Turkey-wheat ſtanding
had the ear turned yellow, and ſeemed ripe. In the fields were
pieces of marble and broken columns. The bed of the river
was very wide, the banks ſteep, with thickets of tamarifk grow-
ing in it. We ſaw ſome ſmall fiſh in the water, and on the mar-
gin found a live tortoiſe, the firſt I had ſeen. I paffed the ſtream
ſeveral times without being wet-ſhod. We had advanced in fight
of ſome barrows, which are beyond the Scamander, and of a
large conical hill, more remote, at the foot of Mount Ida, called
antiently Callicolone, when the fun declining apace, to my great
regret, we were obliged to go back.
-
A rumour had prevailed that the conful, after parting from
us at Tenedos, had been attacked by robbers in his way to
Gallipoli. At our return to the village we found this intelli-
gence confirmed, and our Jews in affliction.
He had gone
with company in a boat from the Dardanell. They landed to
dine, as uſual, afhore; when the banditti ruſhed fuddenly down
upon them, and foon overcame them. The conful, as we were
told, ran into the water up to his chin, where they ſtill fired at
him, and he was much hurt.
WE had purpoſed tarrying a few days at Giaurkioi, and after
recovering from one late fatigue, to traverfe and examine the
plain minutely; and to penetrate to the fources of the Simois
F
...
and
42
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
I
and Scamander in the receffes of Mount Ida; but now we had
danger to apprehend from the defperate parties ranging about the
country; our conductor was defirous to get back without delay
to the diftreffed family of his brother, where his prefence was
required, and the indiſpoſition of our janizary, which increaſed,
made our compliance with his wiſhes as neceffary as it was rea-
fonable.
OUR Cottage was not far from the brow of the hill, on
which the church ſtands, and we repaired thither to enjoy again,
before funfet, the delicious profpect. A long train of low car-
riages, reſembling antient cars, was then coming as it were in
proceffion from Mount Ida. Each was wreathed round with
wicker work, had two wheels, and conveyed a nodding load of
green-wood, which was drawn through the duty plain by yoked
oxen or buffaloes, with a flow and folemn pace, and with an ugly
fcreaking noife.
EARLY in the morning we defcended the flope, on which
Sigéum ftood, going to our boat, which waited at Chomkali,
diſtant about half an hour from Giaurkioi by land. After walk-
ing eight minutes we came between two barrows ftanding each
in a vineyard or incloſure. One was that of Achilles and Pa-
troclus; the other, which was on our right hand, that of Anti-
lochus ſon of Neftor. This had a fragment or two of white
marble on the top, which I afcended; as had alſo another, not
far off, which, if I miſtake not, was that of Peneleus, one of
the leaders of the Boeotians, who was flain by Eurypylus, We
had likewiſe in view the barrow of Ajax Telamon; and at a dif-
tance from it on the fide next Lectos, that of Æfytes mentioned
in Homer. By the road were vineyards, cotton-fields, pomegra-
nate and fig trees, with a verdure and freſhneſs as agreeable
as ſtriking.
THE town of Chomkali is mean and not large. We tarried
there at a coffee-houfe, while our men purchaſed the neceffary
provifions.
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
43
provifions. We faw in the ftreet two capitals excavated, and
ferving as mortars to bruife wheat in. The water-cifterns are
farcophagi with vents. On one was a Greek infcription, not le-
gible; the ftone rough. All theſe have been removed from the
ruins of places adjacent, for even the fite of Chomkali and its
caftle is of modern origin.
3
CHA P. XIV.
Land in the Cherronefe
Their church
cians
of our Turks.
A panegyris of Greeks --- Their Mufi-
Arrive at the inner caftle --- Character
WE had intended to return by the coaſt of Afia, hoping it
might afford us ſomething worthy obſervation; but, when we
came to the wherry, the Rais refuſed, preferring the European
fide of the Hellefpont, becaufe, as he urged, the ftream there
is lefs violent. This point being fettled, not much to our fatif-
faction, we were rowed over to the Cherronefe, where we land-
ed above Eleûs, within a point nearly parallel to Maſtuſia and
its caftle, and at the mouth of the hollow bay Coelos, which
lies between them and has been mentioned before. We could
diſcern fome buildings among trees at the bottom of the bay,
with piers of an aquæduct; and on the rock near us were vef
tiges of a fortrefs.
We had not been long on fhore, before our attention was
engaged by the appearance of many boats on the Hellefpont
fteering toward us and full of people. The paffengers landing,
as they arrived, aſcended a ridge near us in a long train, men
and boys, women with infants, and perfons decrepid from age.
On enquiry, we were informed, that this was a great holiday
among the Greeks, none of whom would be abfent from the
panegyris or General Affembly. The feaft of Venus and Adonis
by Seſtos did not occafion a more complete deſertion of the vil-
lages
F 2
44
IN ASIA MINOR.
TRAVELS
1
I
lages and towns on both fides the Hellefpont, when Leander of
Abydos firſt beheld and became enamoured with his miſtreſs Hero.
IT is the cuſtom of the Greeks on thefe days, after fulfilling
their religious duties, to indulge in feftivity. Two of their
muſicians, ſeeing us fitting under a fhady tree, where we had
dined, came and played before us, while fome of our Turks
danced. One of their inftruments refembled a common tabour,
but was larger and thicker. It was founded with two fticks, the
performer beating it with a flender one underneath, and at the
fame time with a bigger, which had a round knob at the end,
on the top. This was accompanied by a pipe with a reed for the
mouth-piece, and below it a circular rim of wood, againſt which
the lips of the player came. His cheeks were much inflated,
and the notes fo various, thrill, and diſagreeable, as to remind
me of a famous compofition defigned for the antient Aulos or
flute, as was fabled, by Minerva. It was an imitation of the.
fqualling, and wailing, made by the ferpent-haired gorgons,
when Perfeus maimed the triple fifterhood, by ſevering from
their common body the head of Medufa.
OUR Turks and the muſicians, when tired, expected, as uſual,
bac-fhiſh or a prefent. After fatisfying them, we went up to
the place, at which the Greeks were affembled. It was about a
quarter of a mile from the fhore by a church of the Panagia or
Virgin Mary, for ſo they called fome walls of ftones piled, with
out a roof, and ftuck on this folemnity with wax-candle lighted
and with ſmall tapers. Clofe by was an aperture in the ſurface
of the ground, with a fpring running under the rock. This ca-
vity, at which a portrait hung of the Virgin, painted on wood,
was alſo illuminated; and fome prieſts, who took money of
thoſe who came for water, were preparing to perform maſs near
it. We were told it was a place of great fanctity. The multi-
tude was fitting under half-tents with ſtore of melons and grapes,
befides live lambs and fheep to be killed, wine in gourds and
fkins, and other neceffary provifions.
1 See Pindar.
WE
t
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
45
WE left this lively ſcene with fome regret, and re-coafting
the European ſhore, landed, not far from the town and caſtle,
on a ſpot which we found was a favourite place of refort, being
noted for its verdure and ſhade and for cool water, each a fource
of pleaſure and as refreſhing as grateful in climates of a warm
temperature. Here a fire was preſently kindled, and coffee
made, and the whole company ſeemed to experience much ſelf-
enjoyment. We then returned on board, and our men tugged
againſt the ſtream until we were confiderably above the two
caſtles and their towns, when the tide ſet us over, and we landed
in Afia on the beach, from which we had embarked on our
expedition.
ON quitting the boat, we took leave of our muffelmen, upom
the whole well fatisfied with their attention and civility. The
Rais was an obftinate hairy ſavage, as rough in figure as a bear.
In their diſputes fome had difplayed great ferocity, drawing
their fabres and threatening; but fome were of far gentler man-
ners. They were all temperate in their diet; chearfully fating
their hunger with fruits, hard coarſe bread, falt cheeſe, or four
curds called Caimac; and contentedly quenching their thirſt with
water. Our janizary, Baructer-Aga, often requeſted, we would
ſpeak well of him and his nation in England. He was tall, and
poliſhed in perſon and dreſs, and an excellent finger. Our Turks
reſpected him, and he quelled their animofities, interpofing with
authority. He was exact and regular in performing the cuſto-
mary ablutions, and failed not to rehearſe his prayers at the
ftated times, then ſpreading his cloke on the ground, proftrating
his body, and touching it with his forehead; or ſtanding in a
fuppliant poſture, with his hands compofed, deeply intent on
his duty, and to appearance equally devout and humble.
CHAP.
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
CHAP. XV.
Our embarraſſment--- Arrival of an English fhip---Its deftination-
We embark for Scio Quick paffage.
THE banditti, which infefted theſe parts, was repreſented
to us as numerous and cruel. We were affüred, that in our late
excurfion we had been fortunate rather than prudent; danger
was now apparent, and to curiofity we muſt add caution. The
conful had been attacked going to Gallipoli, about two hours
from home. We had been told of ruins, which we fuppofed to
be remains of Abydos, on that fide; but were warned not to
venture that way by his recent peril. We had room to appre-
hend, that we might encounter fome flying or lurking parties,
and be intercepted or cut off, if we took the contrary direction,
and, as had been propofed, fet out on horfeback to explore the
region between the Scamander and Simois. We were much per
plexed by our fituation, and unable to determine how to pro-
ceed.
NIGHT coming on, the recollection of our paft fufferings
here made us defire to fleep in another houſe; but the evil we
wiſhed to avoid was not peculiar to that of the conful, and we
had reafon to long for the fea-fhore or our vineyard again. The
wind in the morning proved high, but we were too impatient
under preſent grievances to tarry at this place, and refolved to
get to Chomkali, the town we had lately left, and to pafs on by
fea to Smyrna. It remained only to purchaſe provifions, with
utenfils for cooking, and other neceffaries for the voyage,, and to
engage a boat with proper fervants and an interpreter; when a
meſſenger from the beach announced the arrival of a ſhip with
Engliſh colours.
A
WE
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOʻR.
47
}
We had ſcarcely time to congratulate each other on this un-
expected news, before the captain, whofe name was Jolly, en-
tered the room. He informed us that he had failed with his
ſhip, the Delawar, not many hours fince, from Gallipoli, where
the Anglicana had entered not long before; that he was come to
an anchor in the road, all veffels from Conftantinople ſtopping
there to be ſearched for contraband goods or fugitive ſlaves; that
he was bound for Cyprus and England, but ſhould touch at Scio,
from whence we might eaſily get to Smyrna.
+
WE were now relieved from our embarraſſment. In the af-
ternoon we took leave of our late companion, and the Jewiſh
family, and embarked on board the Delawar. We were followed
by a ſtately well-dreffed Turk in a boat. The captain, while the
hold was examined, entertained him and fome of his officers in
the cabbin, with pipes, coffee, and fherbet. When this cere-
mony was ended, we fet fail with the wind freſh and fair. The
pike of Tenedos appeared over the main-land of Afia. We foon
cleared the Hellefpont, and paffing by the mouth of the Sca-
mander, had a farewell view of a part of the Troad, which de-
ferves to be carefully traverfed; which I quitted with all the re-
luctance of inflamed curiofity; and which I then hoped we might
be able to reviſit with better fortune from Smyrna.
THE fatisfaction we derived from the fudden change of our fi-
tuation for the better, received great addition from the liberal be-
haviour of our new captain, by whom we were elegantly enter-
tained, and after fupper accommodated with clean bedding, on
the cabbin-floor, which afforded us much refreſhment. The
profperous gale continued, and the ſhip made great way.
We
failed by the weſtern fide of the ifland Mitylene in the night;
and paffing the mouth of the gulf of Smyrna, entered the chan-
nel of Scio, and before midday caft anchor in the road off the
city.
、
>
CHA P.
48
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR,
1
CHAP. XVI.
"
of Scio
Its modern hiftory --
Reduced by the Turks -- --- The
town -
Greek women --- Number of dogs
Manner of bath-
ing
Antiquities of Scio
The temple of
Cybele
7:
The conful &c.
Wines The Lentifcus or maftic-tree.
:
THE ifland Chios, now Scio, is by Strabo reckoned nine
hundred ftadia, or one hundred and twelve miles and a half, in
circuit; and about four hundred ſtadia, or fifty miles, from the
ifland Mitylene. The principal mountain, called antiently Pe-
linæus, preſents to view a long, lofty range of bare rock, re-
flecting the fun; but the receffes at its feet are diligently culti-
vated, and reward the huſbandman by their rich produce. The
flopes are clothed with vines. The groves of lemon, orange,
and citron-trees, regularly planted, at once perfume the air with
the odour of their bloffoms, and delight the eye with their gol-
den fruit. Myrtles, and jaffmines are interſperſed, with olive and
palm-trees, and cypreffes. Amid theſe the tall minarees rife,
and white houſes glitter, dazzling the beholder.
>
SCIO fhared in the calamities, which attended the deſtruc-
tion of the Greek empire. In the year 1093, when robbers and
pirates were in poffeffion of feveral confiderable places, Tzachas,
a Turkiſh malecontent, took the city. The Greek admiral en-
deavouring to reduce it for the emperor Alexis, made a breach
in the wall, and he came to its relief from Smyrna with a
fleet and eight thouſand men, but foon after abandoned it in the
night. In 1306 this was one of the iſlands, which fuffered from
the exactions of the grand-duke Roger, general of the Roman
armies. The city was then ſeized by the Turks, who came be
fore it with thirty fhips, and put the inhabitants to the ſword.
In 1346 fome gallies were fitted out by thirty noble Genoeſe,
which
3
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 49
which took the City. A fleet of fixty veffels was fent by the
Sultan in 1394 to burn it and the towns adjacent, and to ravage
the iflands and fea-coaft. Scio experienced evil, but if it be
compared with the ſufferings of fome other places in theſe times
of rapine and violence, fortune will feem to have concurred
with the partiality of nature, and to have diſtinguiſhed this as a
favourite iſland.
THE Genoeſe continued in poffeffion of Scio about two hun-
dred and forty years. They were deprived of it in 1566, during
the fiege of Malta, by the Turkiſh admiral, who garriſoned it
for Sultan Solyman; but the Chiotes in general were ſtill in-
dulged with numerous and extraordinary privileges. They con-
fifted of two parties, differing in their religious tenets; one of
the Greek perfuafion, which acknowlege the patriarch of Con-
ftantinople as their head; the other of the Latin, or papiſts,
which enjoyed a free toleration under the Turks, their prieſts
celebrating maſs as in Chriſtendom, bearing the facraments to
the fick, going in folemn proceffion, habited, beneath canopies,
with cenſers in their hands, to the year 1694. The Venetians
then attacked and took the caſtle, but abandoned it on a defeat
of their fleet near the Spalmadore iſlands, which lie in the chan-
nel between Scio and the continent. The Latins, who had af-
fifted them, dreaded the puniſhment, which their ingratitude
deſerved; and the prime families with the bishop filed and fettled
in the Morea. The Turks ſeized the churches, aboliſhed the
Genoeſe drefs, and impoſed on their vaffals badges of their ſub-
jection; obliging them, among other articles, to alight from
their horſes at the city-gate, and at the approach of any, even
the meanest, muffelman.
I
THE town of Scio and its vicinity refembles from the fea
Genoa and its territory, as it were in miniature. The antient
city had a good port, and ſtations for eighty fhips. The prefent,
which occupies its fite, beneath Pelinæus, is large, well-built and
See Views. Le Brun p. 169.
G
populous.
50
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
}
populous. A naked hill rifes above it, with a houſe or two on
the fummit, where was the acropolis of the Greeks, and after-
wards the citadel of the Genoefe. We found men at work there,
digging up the old foundations for the materials. The port has
an ordinary or ruinous mole, like that of Tenedos, almoft level
with the water. The mouth is narrow, and befet with lurking
rocks and ſhoals. It was about noon when we landed. We went
to the houfe of the English conful, who was in the country. A
Greek, called Antonio, his fervant, and the drugoman or in-
terpreter belonging to the captain, who was with us, procured
fome live fowls, and eggs, with wine and fruit, for our dinner.
In the evening we walked over the town, which appeared to us
as a collection of petty palaces, after the hovels of mud we had
lately feen on the continent.
THE beautiful Greek girls are the moſt ſtriking ornaments
of Scio. Many of thefe were fitting at the doors and win-
dows, twiſting cotton or filk, or employed in ſpinning and
needle-work, and accofted us with familiarity, bidding us
welcome, as we paffed. The ftreets on Sundays and holi-
days are filled with them in groups. They wear ſhort petti-
coats, reaching only to their knees, with white filk or cotton
hofe. Their head-drefs, which is peculiar to the iſland, is a kind
of Turban, the linen fo white and thin it feemed fnow. Their
flippers are chiefly yellow, with a knot of red fringe at the heel.
Some wore them faſtened with a thong. Their garments were
of filk of various colours; and their whole appearance fo fan-
taſtic and lively as to afford us much entertainment. The Turks
inhabit a ſeparate quarter, and their women are concealed.
+
WE returned to the ſhip at night, the drugoman and Chiote
lighting us with long paper lanthorns to the boat, which waited
at the beach. A great number of ghaunt dogs were collected by
the ſhambles, which are at the out-fkirt of the town. They
barked furiouſly at us, but were chid and repelled by our guides,
whofe language they underſtood. The public, we were told,
maintains
$
$
4
•
TRAVELS IN ASIA - MINOR.
A
}
maintains them; and they affemble, when all is quiet. It is
obfervable, that thefe animals were of old a like nuifance, being
the Lemures of the antients, who uſed to pacify them with food.
The Arcadians in particular were accuſtomed to carry bread from
their table on account of the nightly terrors, or the dogs, which
they expected to affail them in the ſtreets.
THE next morning we were ſet on fhore again, and I went
with Captain Jolly to the principal bagnio or public bathing-
place, which is a very noble edifice, with ample domes, all of
marble. I ſhall attempt to give an account of the mode of bath-
ing. We undreffed in a large fquare room, where linen is hung
to dry, and the keeper attends with his fervants. We had each
a long towel given us to wrap round our middle, and a pair of
tall wooden pattens to walk in. We were led through a warm
narrow paffage into the inner room, which is yet more ſpacious,
and made very hot by ſtoves, which are concealed. In this was
a water-bath, and receffes, with partitions, on the fides. The
pavement in the centre under the dome was raiſed, and covered
with linen cloths, on which we were inftructed to lie down.
We were foon covered with big drops of fweat, and two men
naked, except the waift, then entered, and began kneading our
fleſh, tracing all the mufcles and cleanfing the pores. By the
time they had finiſhed, our joints were fufficiently fuppled,
and they commenced the formidable operation of fnapping all
of them, not only the toes, ancles, knees, fingers and the
like, but the vertebræ of the back, and the breaft; one
while wrenching our necks; then turning us on our bellies,
croffing our arms behind us, and placing their right knee
between our ſhoulders. The feats they perform cannot eafily
be deſcribed, and are hardly credible. When this was
over, we were rubbed with a mohair-bag fitted to the hand,
which, like the antient ftrigil, brings away the grofs matter
perfpired. We were then led each to a recefs, fupplied by pipes
with hot and cold water, which we tempered to our liking.
The men returned with ſoap-lather and tow in a wooden bowl,
G 2
with
52
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
;
Į
with which they cleaned the ſkin, and then poured a large
quantity of warm water on our heads. Our fpirits were quite
exhauſted, when they covered us with dry cloths and led us back.
to the firſt room, where beds were ready for us. On waking
after a gentle flumber, we were prefented each with a lighted
pipe and a diſh of coffee. We roſe much refreſhed, and as the
ladies of the Aga or Turkiſh governor were expected there, haſt-
ened away. The common Turks and Greeks pay a very ſmall
gratuity for the ufe of the bath, which they frequent once a week
or oftener. I have ſometimes been regaled, while in the inner
room, with ripe fruits and ſherbet, and with incenfe burning to
fcent the air. One of my companions repeatedly partook with
me in this innocent and wholfome luxury at Smyrna and at
Athens.
ON our return from the bath we found the conful at home.
He was a fpare fhrewd Greek, a direct contraſt to the fat, open,
hofpitable Jew our hoft at the Dardanell. He prefented us with
pomegranates of a particular fpecies, for which the iſland is
noted. The kernels are without ftones, and it is uſual to bring
them to table in a plate, ſprinkled with roſe water. Theſe are
excellent fruit, but accounted aftringent. An English gentleman
named Bracebridge had come with the conful to vifit us. He was
an elderly perfon, and had been abfent fome years from his native
country for the benefit of a warmer climate. After much wan-
dering, he gave the preference to this ifland above any of the
places which he had tried. At night our captain took leave of
us, intending to fail in the morning, but was detained fome time
longer by foul weather. We found that the old religious parties
ſtill ſubſiſt with unexſtinguiſhed animofity, each fect cherishing
inſuperable hatred, and intriguing to ruin its adverſary. We faw
the Latins at their worship in the chapel of the vice-conful of
the French nation, which was very neat, well filled, ´ofpeci
ally with women, and handfomely illuminated. The English
conful, who ferved fome other European powers, was much
haunted by priests of that church, and had a patent of knight-
hood from the pope.
PROSPERITY
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
53
13
PROSPERITY is lefs friendly to antiquity than defertion and
depopulation. We faw here no ftadium, theatre, or odéum; but
fo illuftrious a city, with a marble quarry near it, could not be
deftitute of thoſe neceffary ftructures, and perhaps fome traces
might be difcovered about the hill of the acropolis. A few bafs-
releifs and marbles are fixed in the walls, and over the gate-
ways
of the houſes. We found by the fea-fide, near the town,
three ftones with infcriptions, which had been brought for bal-
laft from the continent of Afia. The Chiote, our attendant, was
vociferous in his enquiries, but to little purpofe. We were more
than once defired to look at a Genoefe coat of arms for a piece
of antient ſculpture; and a date in modern Greek for an old
infeription.
THE moft curious remain is that which has been named,
without reaſon, The School of Homer. It is on the coaſt at ſome
diſtance from the city, northward, and appears to have been an
open temple of Cybele, formed on the top of a rock. The ſhape
is oval, and in the centre is the image of the goddess, the head
and an arm wanting. She is reprefented, as ufual, fitting. The
chair has a lion carved on each fide, and on the back. The
area is bounded by a low rim or feat, and about five yards over.
The whole is hewn out of the mountain, is rude, indiſtinct, and
probably of the moft remote antiquity. From the flope higher
up
is a fine view of the rich vale of Scio, and of the channel,
with its ſhining iflands, beyond which are the mountains on the
main-land of Afia.
¹ Pocock has metamorphofed the goddeſs and the two lions on the fides of the
chair into Homer and a couple of the mufes.. The three figures, inſtead of certain
parts only, were, I should fuppofe, fupplied by the fancy of the drawer. The reader
may have a much better idea of the original from a releif among the Oxford Mar-
bles. n. cxv. The image it is likely, held in the hand, which is miffing, either
a patera, or tympanum. See n. CXIII. CXIỵ.
THE
54
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
THE wines of Scio have been celebrated as aiding digeftion,
as nutritive and pleaſant. They were much efteemed by the
Romans. Hortenfius hoarded them; and Cæfar, who was as
generous as magnificent, difpenfed them freely to the people at
his triumphs and facrifices. It is related, that the culture of the
vine was introduced by a fon of Bacchus, called Oenopion of
The Wine-Drinker, whoſe fepulchre remained here in the ſecond
century; and that red wine, with the method of making theſe
liquors, was invented by the Chians. A rugged tract named
Arvifia was particularly famous for its produce, which has been
extolled as ambrofial, and ſtiled a new nectar. Mr. Bracebridge,
whom we vifited at his houſe near the town, treated us with a
variety of choice fpecimens; and it may be queftioned, if either
the flavour or qualities, once fo commended, be at all impaired.
In ſeveral we found the former truly admirable.
I
/
To the peculiar poffeffion of the Arvifian vine, now no
longer talked of, has fucceeded the profitable culture of the
Lentifcus, or maftic-tree. This employs, as we were told,
twenty one villages, which are required to provide as many thou-
fand okes of gum annually for the uſe of the feraglio at Con-
ftantinople. They procure it by boring the trunks with a fmall
ſharp iron, in the fummer-months. In October their harveſt is
conveyed with mufic into the city, and lodged in the caftle.
The cadi and officers, who attend while it is weighed, have each
a certain portion for their perquifite. The remainder is delivered
to the farmer or planter, to be difpofed of for his own advan-
tage. The Greeks of thefe villages have a feparate governor,
and enjoy many privileges. In particular, they are allowed to
wear a turban of white linen, and their churches have each a
bell to call them to prayers, an indulgence of which they ſpeak
with much glee. The Afiatic ladies are exceffively fond of this
1 An oke is a Turkiſh weight of about two pounds three quarters avoir de pois.
4
gum,
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
55
་
Give
gum, which they chew. greedily, believing it good for the
breath, and attributing to it various other excellent properties.
CHA P. XVII.
Set fail from Scio Moor in a creek Weather Cape Kara-
The Inbat View of Smyrna from the fea ---- The
The Conful's houſe Live camelions.
bornu
Frank Street
THE inconveniences, under which we had laboured for fome
time, rendered us impatient to get as faſt as poffible to Smyrna.
We had been adviſed not to carry fervants with us from Eng-
land, and had made our way thus far alone. Befides the want
of proper attendants, we were without our bedding, which, in
our hurry at quitting the Anglicana, had been left on the
quarter-deck. The weather was unfavourable to our departure
from Scio. Thick clouds covered the mountains, and the ſouth-
erly wind called Sirocco prevailed. It thundered very much,
with lightning, and rained hard in the night. We had hired a
boat manned with Greeks, and our baggage was carried to the
cuſtom houſe to be infpected, but it blew fo violently, we were
adviſed not to go on board. The next day the wind ftill conti-
nued high and contrary; but as it ſeemed not likely to change,
and our boat was a ftout one, we refolved to venture, and em-
barked about noon with a rough ſea.
LEAVING the mole of Scio, we buffetted the waves
acroſs to the continent, where we took in more ballaft.
We then ſtood to and fro the whole afternoon, but made
little way. Our boat carried a large unhandy fail, which,
when we tacked about, did not readily clear, and once we
barely eſcaped being overfet. In the evening we entered a
ſmall creek, and moored by two other veffels. In the rock cloſe
by were caverns black with ſmoke. Theſe afford ſhelter to
mariners and fishermen, in dark nights and tempeftuous wea-
ther,
}
56
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
4
+
+
ther, when the ſea is not navigable. We landed very wet from
the falt fpray, and half-ſtarved with hunger. We had endea-
voured, when we ftopped before, to make the crew underſtand;
that our keen appetites required preſent gratification, but did
not fucceed. Some of them now made a fire on fhore, and
boiled the fowls, which we had provided. We ſupped in a man-
ner fufficiently diſguſting, and retired to the boat, where the freth
ballaft was our bed.
WE were under fail again, as foon as the morning dawned;
plying between Mount Mimas on the continent and the Spalma-
dore iſlands, called antiently Oenuffæ. They belonged to the
Chians, who had refuſed to ſell them to the Phocéans. About
two we weathered the ſouthern promontory of the gulf of Smyr-
na, formerly called Acra Melæna, or Black Point. The Turkish
name, which now prevails, fignifies nearly the fame. It is Kara-
bornu or Black Nofe.
SMYRNA is fituated in the latitude of 38ª. 40m. at the end of
a long bay. As foon as we had gained the mouth of this gulf,
the wind called Inbat began to waft us pleaſantly along. This,
which is a wefterly wind, fets regularly in, during the hot
months, in the day-time; and is generally fucceeded by a land-
breeze in the night. The city was in view before us, when
evening came on, and the gale died away.
WE arrived at the Frank Scale, or key for Europeans, early
in the morning, and beheld Smyrna, no longer remote; fpread-
ing on a flope, the fummit of the hill crowned with a large ſo-
litary caſtle; domes and minarees, with cypreff-trees inter-
fperfed, rifing above the houſes. On the fouth fide, where the
Armenians and Jews have extenfive burying-grounds on flats
one above another, the furface of the acclivity appeared as co-
vered with white marble. The quarter affigned to the Franks is
on the northfide; and by the fhore, not far from us, the Eng-
lith
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
57
liſh flag was hoiſted. Soon after, the conful, then Antony Hayes
efquire, fert an Armenian, one of his drugomen or interpreters,
to be our guide to his houſe.
7
We landed and paffed through the Bezeſten or Market, which
is" in form like a ſtreet, ſhutting up at each end, the ſhops
being little rooms with cupaloes leaded, and holes on the top
with glaſs to let the light in '." We then entered the ſtreet of
the Franks, which had a dirty kennel, was of a mean aſpect,
and fo narrow that we could ſcarcely get by a camel laden with
charcoal. It was partly in ruins, a terrible fire having happened
in the preceding year; and ſome of the confuls and merchants
were now rebuilding, or had recently finiſhed their houſes,
which in general extend from the ſtreet backward to the beach,
and have an area or court. The apartments are in the upper
ftory, fpacious and handſome, with long galleries, and terraces,
open to the ſea and the refreſhing Inbat. Beneath them are large
'and fubftantial magazines for goods.
We were received by the conful, and vifited by Mr. Lee, one
of the principal merchants, and by the factory and other gen-
tlemen, with great civility. As we were likely to make fome
fay, we enquired for lodgings, but were told that the families,
which had been burned out, occupied all and were diftreffed for
room. The conful politely offered us a detached part of his
houfe, which confifts of a large quadrangle with a court behind
it. We were here much at our eafe, and cloſe by an ample gal-
lery, where we might enjoy the grateful Inbat, with a full view
of the ſhipping and of the long fair canal within Kara-bornu,
which is bordered by woody mountains and duſky olive-groves;
the ſurface of the water ſhining, and ſmooth; or ruffled by the
wind, and the waves coming toward Smyrna as it were in regular
progreffion, and breaking on the beach.
• Wheler.
H
AMONG
58
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
4
AMONG the new objects, which first attracted our attention,
were two live camelions, one of the ſize of a large lizard. They:
were confined each on a long narrow piece of board ſuſpended be-
tween two ſtrings, and had for ſecurity twiſted their tails ſeveral
times round. We were much amufed with the changes in the
colour of theſe reptiles, and with feeing them feed. A fly, de-.
prived of its wings, being put on the board, the camelion foon
perceives its prey, and untwirling its tail, moves toward it very
gently and deliberately. When within diſtance, it fuddenly ſeizes
the poor infect, darting forward its tongue, a ſmall long tube.
furniſhed with glutinous matter at the end, to which the fly ad-
heres. This is done fo nimbly and quietly, that we did not
wonder it remained unobſerved for ages, while the creature was
idly ſuppoſed to ſubſiſt on air. One of theſe made its eſcape, the
other periſhed with hunger.
CHA P. XVIII.
Origin of Smyrna The fite --- Its profperity.
Ruined
The
The
The
Confumption of the old
citadel repaired ---- The Mahometan and Chriftian towns
Success of Tamerlane --- Smyrna reduced by the Sultans
preſent town --- The citadel --- The ftadium and theatre
port The walls The Sepulchres
materials
Tomb of St. Polycarp.
IT is related of Alexander the Great, that after hunting he
fell aſleep on Mount Pagus beneath a plane tree, which grew,
by a fountain near a temple of the Nemefes; and that the god-
deffes directed him in a viſion to found there a city for the Smyr-
néans, a people from Ephefus, then living in villages. The work
was begun by Antigonus, and finiſhed by Lyfimachus. The
Clarian oracle was confulted on the removal of the Smyrnéans,
and
r
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 59
量
​and anfwered in an heroic couplet, that thoſe who ſhould dwell
on Mount Pagus, beyond the facred Meles, would experience great
profperity. Afterwards the Ephefians, remembering their com-
mon origin, procured, with the concurrence of king Attalus and
of Arfinoe his queen, their admiffion as members of the Ionic
body; an honour, which the Smyrnéans had coveted long before,
when it was firft conftituted.
THE fite felected by Alexander for this people was fuch as
the antient founders commonly preferred. Their cities in ge-
neral were feated by fome hill or mountain, which, as this did,
fupplied them with marble, and was commodious as well for
defence as ornament. The fide or flope afforded a ſecure foun-
dation for the feats of the ftadium and theatres, leffening both
the labour and expence. It diſplayed the public and private
ſtructures, which roſe from its quarry, to advantage; and ren-
dered the view as captivating as noble. The Greeks were of old
accounted happy in chufing their fituations. They had been
ſtudious to unite beauty with ſtrength, and good ports with a
fertile foil. The Romans were attentive to articles neglected by
them, to the paving of the ways, to aquæducts, and to the com-
mon-ſhores.
- SMYRNA flouriſhed, as Apollo had foretold; and, under the
Romans, was eſteemed the moſt beautiful of the Ionian cities.
The wall comprized a portion of Mount Pagus, but more of the
plain by the port, by the Metroum or temple of Cybele, and by
the gymnafium. The ſtreets were as ftrait as the fite would ad-
mit, and excellently diſpoſed. The ways were paved. Both above
and below, were large quadrangular ftoas or porticoes. There was
alſo a library, and, befides the other requifites of a noble city, a
port which ſhut up; but, from an omiffion of the architects, the
want of fewers occafioned a great nuifance. It was much fre-
quented by the fophifts, and, with Epheſus, became renowned
as a ſchool of oratory and ſcience. It has been exalted with high
encomiums,
H 2
60
MINOR.
TRAVELS IN ASIA
}
encomiums, and ſtiled the lovely, the crown of Ionia, the ornament
of Afia,
IN the year 1084, Tzachas, a Turkish malecontent, who af-
fumed the title of king, feized and made Smyrna his capital.
His fleet took Clazomene, Phocéa, Scio, Samos, Mitylene, and
other places. In 1097 the city was befieged by John Ducas, the
Greek admiral; and on its furrender, Cafpaces, who had been
fent to attack it by fea, was appointed governor; but a Turk
ftabbed him, and his death was revenged by the maffacre of ten
thouſand inhabitants. The whole coaft of Afia, from Smyrna to
Attalia, had been defolated by the wars, when the Greek em-
peror fent Philokales, in 1106, to reſtore its cities. Adromitium,
which had been utterly deftroyed by Tzachas, was then rebuilt,
and peopled with peaſants and ſtrangers.
AT the beginning of the thirteenth century, Smyrna lay in
ruins, except the acropolis, which ferved as a fortrefs. This was
repaired and beautified by the emperor John Angelus Comnenus,
who died in 1224. Smyrna, thus reftored, was a fmall town
chiefly on the fummit of Mount Pagus, or within the prefent
caſtle.
IN 1313, Atin had fubdued Lydia, and extended his con-
queſts to this place. In 1332, Amir or Homur, his fon and
fucceffor, was fultan of Smyrna. In 1345, while he was abſent
with his fleet, ravaging the coafts of the Propontis, fome gallies
of the Latins, and of the knights of Rhodes burnt ſeveral veſſels
in the port. Amir arrived in time to fave the town, but could
not diflodge the enemy from a fort, which they had ſeized, nor
prevent their making a fettlement, which was at the mouth of
the port, at a diſtance from the Turkiſh town. The next year,
the pope fent thither a nominal patriarch of Conftantinople, ef-
corted by twelve gallies; but Amir, while mafs was celebrating
in the church, attacked and drove the Italians into their citadel
called fort St. Peter, before which he was afterwards killed by
TAMERLANE,
an arrow.
}
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
61
>
TAMERLANE, who ravaged Anatolia or Afia Minor in 1402,
hearing that the Chriſtians and Mahometans had each a ſtrong-
hold at Smyrna, and were always at war, required the former
to change their religion; but the governor foliciting aid from
the European princes, Tamerlane marched in perfon to fubdue
a place, which fultan Morat had attempted in vain, and which
his fon Bajazet had befieged or blockaded for feven
He
years.
attacked it by fea and land; and, to ruin the port, ordered each
foldier to throw a ftone into the mouth, which was foon filled
up; but the fhips had got away. He took the town in fourteen
days, with great flaughter of the inhabitants, and demolished
the houſes. The knights had fled into the caftle of St. Peter,
and thence to their gallies, which lay near. He is faid to have
cut off a thouſand priſoners, and to have caufed a tower to be
erected with ſtones and their heads intermixed.
CINEIS, who had long been governor of the Turkish town,
continued in poffeffion when it was thus freed from its enemy
and rival. He was much eſteemed by the Ionians, and, after a
variety of fortune, rofe to be a fovereign in Afia. Sultan Mo-
hammed the first marched against him in 1419, and deprived
him of Nymphéum, the city Cyme, and fort Archangel, called
by the Turks Kaghiafik, fituated in the field of Menomen. He
was affifted by the governors of the islands, who hated Cineis,
by the princes of Phocéa, of Higher Phrygia, Caria, Leſbos,
Scio, and even by the grand Mafter of Rhodes, who was then
rebuilding fort St. Peter, which Tamerlane had deftroyed. He
demoliſhed the fortification of Smyrna, but ſpared the inhabi-
tants; and ordered fort St. Peter to be again ruined, on a com-
plaint, that it ſheltered the Ionian flaves who eſcaped from their
owners; and to requite the grand Maſter, permitted him to erect
a fort on the borders of Lycia and Caria. In 1424 Smyrna was
again taken by fultan Morat, Cineis retiring to the mountains.
WHEN
1
↓
}
*
*
62
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
*
*
WHEN the conquering Turk had gained complete poffeffion
of the Greek empire, and peace was reftored, commerce revived
and again fettled at Smyrna. The inhabitants, delivered from
their apprehenfions of danger, by degrees abandoned the caſtle,
and the town flid as it were down the flope toward the fea;
leaving behind it a naked ſpace, where they now dig for old ma-
terials, and alſo fome ordinary ruins below the caſtle, which
overlooks the buildings and the bay, at a diſtance.
THE reader of the foregoing detail will not be furpriſed if
few traces of the antient city yet remain. From a ſurvey of the
caſtle, which is extenfive, we collect, that after being re-edified
by John Angelus Comnenus, its condition, though less ruinous
than before, was far more mean and ignoble. The old wall, of
which many remnants may be diſcovered, is of a folid maffive
conſtruction, worthy of Alexander and his captains. All the
repairs are mere patch-work. Near the weſtern gate-way, at
which you enter from the town, was once a fountain, now dry;
by which is a marble coloffal head of Apollo, or, as fome have
fuppofed of the Amazon Smyrna; the face much injured. With-
in, is a deſerted mofque and rubbiſh of buildings; with a large
reſervoir for water, the roof arched, and ſupported by piers. On
the arch of the gate-way fronting the north, which is of marble,
is infcribed a copy of verfes, giving an elegant and poetical de-
ſcription of the extreme mifery, from which the emperor be-
fore mentioned had raiſed the city; and concluding with an
addreſs to the omnipotent.Ruler of heaven and earth, that he
would grant him and his queen, whofe beauty it celebrates, a
reign of many years. On each fide is an eagle rudely cut. The
river Hermus may be ſeen from this eminence, which alſo af-
fords a view of a fine champaign country round about, covered
with vines.
>
GOING down from the weſtern gate of the caſtle toward the
fea, at ſome diſtance is the ground-plat of the ſtadium, ſtripped
of
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 63
t
>
of its marble feats and decorations. One fide was on the flope of
the mountain; the oppofite, or that next to the town, was raiſed
on a vaulted ſubſtruction, which remains. It appears as a long
dale, femicircular or rounded at the top. The area, when we firſt
faw it, had been reaped; and, another time, fome men were buſy
ploughing in it. Going from the northern gate, over which is
the infcription, you come to veftiges of a theatre, in the fide of
the hill, near the brow, and fronting the bay. Below the theatre
is part of a flight wall, which, with a foffe round the hill, was
begun about the year 1736 to protect the town from Soley Bey
Ogle, a famous rebel, by whom it had been much diſtreſſed '.
THE port which fhut up reached once to the foot of the caftle-
hill, but is now dry, except after heavy rains, when it receives
water from the flopes. It forms a fpacious recefs within the pre-
fent town, and has houfes along the margin. Tamerlane, by
depriving the fea of its free ingrefs, contributed to this change,
and the mud washed from above has gradually completed it.
Like fome of the Italian havens, it required perhaps to be cleanf-
ed and deepened by machines contrived for that purpoſe, It is
mentioned as the galley port at the beginning of this century.
A ſmall mean caſtle ſtill in ufe, on the north fide of the entrance,
is fuppofed to occupy the fite of fort St. Peter.
}
THE City-wall, which defcending from the caftle included the
ſtadium on one hand, and the theatre on the other, has been long
fince demoliſhed; and even its ruins are removed. A ſmall rem-
nant of it, on the hill above the ftadium, confifts of hard ce-
ment and rubble; but has been faced with better materials.
This ſpecies of antient maſonry was called Pfeudifodomum, as
having externally the fame appearance as the Ifodomum, which
was wholly of ſtone, or marble, the pieces regularly diſpoſed.
This fide cómprehended a large portion of the burying-grounds
without the preſent town. The fide next the theatre may be
I Pocock.
traced
64
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
traced a confiderable way along the brow, from its junction with
the north eaſt angle of the caftle. It is then loft; but in the
Armenian quarter, by The three corners or near the Frank ftreet,
are remnants of a thick and maffy wall, which has a large V cut
on each ſtone. Going in 1675 from the fea along by it, you came
to foundations of a great and folid fabric, probably the gymna-
fium; but theſe are not now viſible. Beyond the deep valley, in
which the river Meles winds, behind the caſtle, are ſeveral
por-
tions of the wall of the pomoerium, which encompaffed the
city at a diſtance, but broken. The facings are gone, and maffes
only of hard cement and rubble are left.
THE antient fepulchres were in the pomoerium, without the
city. One, which has been abfurdly fuppofed a temple of Ja-
nus, remained in 1675, in the way to Efhekleer, or beyond
the river Meles and on the left of the road leading toward Mag-
neſia. It was then among olive-trees, in a field. The inſcriptions
of ſeveral have been preſerved and publiſhed. At the houſe of a
Turk occupied by Mr. Purnell, an English gentleman, was
a farcophagus, of which a very exact drawing is given by Le
Brun.
THE antient city has fupplied materials for the public
edifices erected by the Turks. The Bezeſten or Market, which
was unfinished in 1675, and the Vizir-khan, were both raiſed
with the white marble of the theatre. The very ruins of the:
ftoas and temples are vanished. We faw remains of one only;
fome fhafts of columns of variegated marble, much injured, in
the way afcending through the town to the caftle. Many pedeſ
tals, ftatues, infcriptions, and medals, have been and are ftilk
difcovered in digging. Perhaps no place has contributed more.
than Smyrna to enrich the collections and cabinets of the curi-
ous in Europe.
AND here we may remark on the ſtory of St. Polycarp, the
firſt biſhop of Smyrna. It is related, that he was burnt in the
1
amphi-
+
*
TRAVELS IN ASIA
ASIA MINOR.
65
{
amphitheatre. The Afiatic cities uſed the ſtadium for the diver-
fions of the Roman amphitheatre; and that, it is probable, was
the ſcene of his martyrdom. His fepulchre, which the Greek
chriftians are faid to have revered and to have vifited annually on
the day of his feftival or on the twenty third of February, is ſtill
to be, ſeen, as travellers have reported, by a fpreading tree
below the caſtle; but this is an idle tale, and deferves to be ex-
ploded. I examined the ſpot, and made particular enquiries,
but could obtain no fatisfactory information. If his reliques were
interred, and the place once venerated, the knowlege of it has
long fince periſhed. The early tradition, if true, muſt have been
often intercepted in its courſe downwards. The race of ci-
tizens, among whom it was moſt likely to be preſerved, has
been extirpated by war, plague, fire, and earthquakes, and
Smyrna has been deftitute of Greeks. Even now, under a more
fettled government,, the fame family ſeldom ſubſiſts there more
than three generations.
+
?
CHAP.
XIX.
Smyrna a great mart The people Drefs of the women ---
Buildings ---Heat, earthquakes, and plague---Burying-grounds---
Provifions Moſquitoes or gnats.
THE devaſtations committed in Afia Minor, and the changes
effected, as will be fhewn hereafter, by the rivers on the coaſt,
have rendered Smyrna the only confiderable mart by the ſea fide,
and, in confequence, the principal center of the traffic of the
country. One lucrative branch of its commerce failed dur-
ing the troubles in Perfia, when the throne was ufurped by
Nadir Shah. The accustomed communication by caravans was
then interrupted; and trade, meeting with obftructions in the
old courſe, which it had held for ages, turned away into new
channels. But, with this lofs, Smyrna continues a large and
flouriſhing city. The bay, befides numerous ſmall-craft, is daily
I
frequented
66
A
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
frequented by ſhips of burthen from the chief ports in Europe;
and the factors, who are a respectable body, at once live in afflu
ence and acquire fortunes.
THE Conflux at Smyrna of people of various nations, differ-
ing in drefs, in manners, in language, and in religion is very
confiderable. The Turks occupy by far the greater part of the
town. The other tribes live in feparate quarters. The proteft-
ants and Roman catholics have their chapels; the Jews a fyna-
gogue or two; the Armenians a large and handfome church
with a burying-ground by it. The Greeks, before the fire,
had two churches. They applied by their bishop at Conftanti-
nople for leave to rebuild that, which was deftroyed, but the
fum demanded was too exorbitant to be given. By this policy
the Turks will in time extirpate chriſtianity from among their
vaffals.
THE factors and other Europeans fettled at Smyrna generally
intermarry with the Greeks, or with natives of the fame reli-
gion. Their ladies wear the Oriental drefs, confifting of large
trowſers or breeches, which reach to the ancle; long vefts of
rich filk, or of velvet, lined in winter with coftly furs; and
round their waiſt, an embroidered zone with clafps of filver or
gold. Their hair is platted, and defcends down the back, often
in great profufion. The girls have fometimes above twenty
thick treffes, befides two or three encircling the head, as a co-
ronet, and fett off with flowers, and plumes of feathers, pearls,
or jewels. They commonly ftain it of a chefnut-colour, which
is the moſt defired. Their apparel and carriage are alike an-
tique. It is remarkable, that the trowfers are mentioned in a
fragment of Sappho . The habit is light, loofe, and cool,
adapted to the climate. When they vifit each other, they put
over their heads a thin tranfparent veil of mullin with a border
v, Warton's Theocritus p. 304. They are now called Bgáný.
of
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
67
of gold tiffue. A janizary walks before, and two or more hand-
maids follow them, through the ſtreets. When aſſembled, they
are feen reclining in various attitudes or fitting cross-legged on
a fofa. Girls of inferior rank from the iſlands, eſpecially Tino,
abound; and are many of them as beautiful in perſon as pictu-
refque in their appearance. They excell in a glow of colour,
which ſeems the effect of a warm fun, ripening the human body
as it were into uncommon perfection. The women of the Turks,
and of fome other nations, are kept carefully concealed; and,
when they go out, are enwrapped in white linen, wear boots, and
have their faces muffled.
THE principal buildings in Smyrna are the moſques, the
public baths, the bezeften, and the khans or Inns. Some of
theſe are very ample and noble edifices. The khans have
in general a quadrangle or fquare area, and fometimes a foun-
tain in the middle. The upper ftory confifts of an open gal-
lery, with a range of apartments, and often a fmall mofque
or place of worship for the ufe of the devout muffelmen.
Below are the camels with their burthens, and the mules, or
horfes. A fervant dufts the floor of a vacant chamber, when
you arrive, and fpreading a mat, which is all the furniture,
leaves you in poffeffion. The gates are ſhut about funfet, and
a trifling gratuity is expected by the keeper at your departure.
The ftreets of Smyrna, a few excepted, are very narrow, and
exceedingly intricate. Caution is requifite in going out of the
Frank quarter, and it is proper to be preceded by a janizary as a
fafe-guard.
THE lofty mountains', which ſhelter Smyrna and leave it
open only to the ſea, concenter the rays of the fun, as it were
into a focus. The intenfe heat commences in June, and con-
tinues without intermiffion to the end of Auguft or the mid-
dle of September. During this period, if the Inbat fail, the in-
ཏི
T
• The mountains behind Smyrna were antiently called Maſtuſia and Termetis.
Pliny.
I 2
habitants
68 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
1
{
habitants are diſtreffed, and even gafp for breath. The ground
is then burnt up, and has large chafms and fiffures, which, as
fome have imagined, give vent to bituminous vapours. Thefe,
if confined, are fuppofed to occafion earthquakes by their explo-
fion. A year ſeldom paffes without a ſhock or two, but gene-
rally flight, and leſs hurtful than alarming. They happen chiefly
in fpring and autumn, when the weather is calm; and it has
been remarked at thoſe times, that the fea commonly withdraws
from the beach, and the water is unuſually low. Befides this
calamity, Smyrna is alſo viſited almoft annually by the plague.
If the diftemper rage, the confuls and factors either retire into
the country, or, as the phraſe is, fhut up, not admitting even
the market-man to enter their gates. Many of the people aban-
don their dwellings, and live abroad under tents. The islanders
return home, and the ſtreets of the Frank quarter, which is ex-
ceedingly populous, almoſt ceafe to be trodden.
+
THE Turks bury chiefly without the town, where the in-
cloſures are very extenfive, it being their cuſtom not to open the
grounds filled with bodies until a long term of years has elapfed.
The graves have ftones or pillars at the head and feet, and are
ſometimes ſhaded with cypreſs-trees. In their coemetaries, and
in thoſe of the Chriftians and Jews, are found many marble flabs
and fragments of architecture. The Engliſh ground, which is
at a diſtance from the Frank quarter, at the oppofite end of the
town, is walled in, and contains fome monuments worthy no-
tice for the beauty of their ſculpture. Thefe were brought from
Italy. Mr. Bouverie, the friend and companion of Mr. Daw-
kins and Mr. Wood, is interred there, and has over him a plain
marble with a long Latin infcription. He died at Guzelhiffar
or Magneſia by the Mæander.
SMYRNA is well ſupplied with proviſions. The ſheep have
broad tails, hanging down like an apron, fome weighing eight,
ten, or more pounds. Theſe are eaten as a dainty, and the fat,
before they are full grown, accounted as delicious as marrow.
The
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
69
}
The rich cluſters of grapes
The flesh of wild hogs is common, and in efteem among the
Europeans and Greeks, who purchaſe the animal when kill-
ed by the Turks. Fine fish is taken in the bay. Hares, with
game and fowl, are cheap. The partridges are bigger than the
Englifh, of a different colour and ſpecies, with red legs. The
olive-groves furnish doves, fieldfares, thruſhes, quails, fnipes,
and the like in abundance. A variety of excellent wines are pro-
duced in the country, or imported from the iſlands. The fruits
are of an exquifite flavour. Among thoſe of the gourd kind, the
water-melon, which grows to a great fize, is not only highly
palatable, but ſo innocent as to be allowed to the fick in fevers.
The figs are defervedly famous.
are as wholfome as beautiful. Many on the ftalk are found
converted by the fun into raiſins. We were ſhewn one fpecies,
which had no ftones. Large and heavy bunches are hung on
ftrings, and preſerved in the ſhops for fale in the winter.
mons and oranges, with citrons, are in plenty. The sherbets
made with the juice of the two former, newly gathered, in
water, ſweetened with white honey, are as cooling as grateful
to the taſte. Coffee is brought from Arabia. We partook
almoſt daily of eatables unknown to us before; and in a fhort
time were reconciled to the cuſtom of ſleeping after dinner,
which is recommended as conducing, and even neceffary, to
health in that climate.
→
Le-
OUR fituation was not, however, without grievances. We
were much infefted by a minute fly, which irritates by its punc-
ture, and ſettling on the white wall, eludes the angry purfuer
with furprizing activity. But this fpecies and the other infects,
which annoyed us, were petty offenders compared with the
moſquitoes, or large gnats, which tormented us moft exceedingly
by their loud noife, and by repeated attacks on our ſkin, where
naked or lightly clothed, perforating it with their acute probofcis,
and fucking our blood, till they were full. A fmall fiery tumour
then enſues, which will not foon fubfide, unleſs the patient has
been
70
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
1
been, as it were, naturalized by refidence; but the pain is much
allayed by lemon-juice. At night they raged furiouſly about our
beds, affaulting the gawfe-veil, our defence; which, thin at it
was, augmented the violent heat to a degree almoſt intolerable.
Their fondneſs of foreign food is generally but too vifible in
the fwollen and diftorted features of perfons newly arrived.
CHA P. XX.
Of the adjacent country The river Meles ---The inner bay
Old Smyrna Antient fepulchres
Homer Of another Poet of Smyrna
Its origin· Story of
The Aquæducts
The cave of Homer The River-God Meles.
I
SMYRNA has on the ſouth-eaſt a fine plain, in which are
villages, and the houſes of the principal factors, who refide in
the country in the fummer. Norlecui and Hadjelar are toward
the eaſt. On the north fide is Bujaw, diſtinguiſhed by tall cy-
prefs-trees; and, about a league from the fea, Bonavre. In the
way to this village, not far from the road, is a plentiful fource
of warm water, from which a ſteam arifes in winter. `Some
arches and foundations of buildings have been difcovered near
it, and the ſpot is called by the Europeans, The Baths of Diana.
In the middle of the plain are ſeveral ſmall canals, which com-
municate with the aquæducts behind the caſtle-hill. The bed of
a torrent, which after rains falls into the Meles, is on the ſouth
of the plain; and beyond, or toward the feet of the mountains,
is a village called Sedicui. Wild animals abound; and eſpecially
jackalls, which are heard nightly, howling on the hills or in the
plain. When one begins, the reft join as it were in full cry.
Camelions and lizards are commonly ſeen about the rubbiſh of old
buildings, basking in the fun; and feveral kinds of fnakes are
found, fome of a great length, which are frequently diſcovered
by their muſky fmell.
1 Pocock.
THE
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
71
*
$
24
THE river Meles was antiently the boast of the Smyrnéans.
This moſt beautiful water, as it has been filed, flowed by the
city-wall, and had its fources not remote. The ftream is clear,
and in fummer fhallow, not covering the rocky bed, but winding
in the deep valley behind the caftle and murmuring among the
ever-greens. It receives many rills from the fides; and, after
turning an over-fhot mill or two, approaches The Gardens with-
out the town, where it is branched out by ſmall canals, and di-
vided and fubdivided into leffer currents, until it is abforbed, or
reaches the fea, at the end of the Frank ſtreet, in ditches, un-
like a river. But in winter, after heavy rains on the mountains
or the melting of fnow, it ſwells into a torrent, rapid and deep,
often not fordable, or with danger.
On the north of Smyrna, the ſea enters a receſs, in which is
the road, where ſhips careen. This inner bay is called by the
English failors, Pegs hole. The Meles, when full, purfues its
way thither, inftead of lofing itself in the gardens. There alfo
the first Smyrna was fituated, about twenty ſtadia or two miles
and a half from the preſent, and on the other fide of the river.
OLD Smyrna, which is deſcribed as near the ſea, with the
clear ftream of the Meles running by it, exifted in the ſecond
century; and perhaps fome veftiges might be difcovered even
now in tracing the river toward the bay, which is lefs wide
than it was antiently, and has been removed from the fite, by
a large acceffion of low land formed of foil waſhed from the
mountains near, or of mud and flime brought down by the
torrent.
Pocock has defcribed feveral very antient fepulchres on the
fide of the hill, more to the weft than Bonavre, and near the
corner of the bay, which, I ſhould fuppofe, are reliques of old
• p. 93.
Smyrna
!
1
t
72 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
?
?
>
1
Smyrna. The plaineft fort confifts, as he relates, of a raiſed
ground in a circular form, of ſtones hewn out, or elſe laid in a
rough manner. In theſe are generally two graves, funk in the
earth, made of hewn ſtone and covered over with a large ftone.
The others are circular mounts, from twenty to fixty feet in
diameter, walled round, as high as their tops, with large ruſti-
cated ftones; and have within, under ground, a room, which in
ſome is divided into two apartments. The walls are all of good
workmanſhip, conftructed with a kind of brown baftard granate,
the produce of the country, wrought very ſmooth, the joinings
as fine as in poliſhed marble. Some of the Engliſh had opened
one of the former fort, and found an urn in it. I vifited an old
Turkiſh coemetery of confiderable extent by Bonavre; and re-
gret, that I was not then apprized of theſe curious remains.
THE Smyrnéans derived their name from the Amazon Smyr-
na. They were originally of Ephefus, but had feceded, and,
after difpoffeffing the Leleges, founded the city above mentioned.
They were expelled in turn by the Æolians of Cyme, and re-
tired to Colophon; but a party, pretending to be fugitives, ob-
tained re-admiffion, and, while the people were celebrating a
feaſt of Bacchus without the walls, fhut the gates. A general
war was likely to follow between Æolia and Ionia, but it was at
length agreed, that the town ſhould deliver up all the effects of
the late inhabitants, who were to be diftributed among the
Eolian cities. The territory of Smyrna had fupplied corn for
exportation, and the place was then become a confiderable em-
porium. The Lydians deftroyed this city, and the Smyrnéans
fubfifted four hundred years as villagers, before they fettled on
Mount Pagus.
*
It was the Æolian Smyrna, which claimed the glory of pro-
ducing Homer. Crithéis his mother, it is related, going in
company with other women out of the town, to obferve. a fef-
tival, was delivered of him near the Meles, and named him
Melefigenes. This ſtory is dated ten years after the building of
Smyrna,
TRAVELS. IN ASIA MINOR.
73
Smyrna, and one hundred and fifty eight after the war of Troy.
We may regret that the pleas of all the cities, which diſputed,
the honour of his birth, are not on record. The place and time
are equally unafcertained; and it has been obferved, that he has
mentioned neither the Meles nor Smyrna.
: THE hiſtory of Homer, it is remarkable, is fcarcely more
obfcure than that of another poet of Smyrna, who has likewiſe
written on the Trojan war. This perfon indeed tells us, in an
addrefs to the Muſes, that he had been infpired by them with
his whole fong before the down covered his cheeks, while he
fed ſheep in the territory of Smyrna, by the temple of Diana,
ón a mountain of a middling height, three times as far from the
Hermus as a man, when he hollows, can be heard. His work,
containing a fequel to the Iliad in fourteen books, was found by
cardinal Beffarion in the church of St. Nicholas near Hydrûs, a
city of Magna Græcia; and by him communicated to the learn-
ed. The name of Quintus, perhaps the owner, was inſcribed on
the manuſcript; and the author has been fince called by it, with
the addition of Smyrnæus or Calaber. He appears to have been
well acquainted with the country in which he lived, and has
left ſome valuable deſcriptions of its antiquities and natural
curiofities.
THE bed of the river Meles, behind the caſtle, is croffed
by a lofty Aquæduct, which, when we faw it, had been re-
cently repaired, and fupplied the fountains in Smyrna. Higher
up is one larger, but ruinous; and near this is a remnant of an
antient paved cauſeway, which led over the hills from Smyrna
toward Epheſus and Colophon. The ſtones are ſmooth, broad,
and maffive. By the Aquæduct are feveral petrifications, and
one, of which an aged tree was the mould. The wood has pe-
riſhed, but the large hollow trunk, which incrufted it, is ftand-
ing. The Meles riſes above the Aquæducts out of a dry courſe
deep-worn by torrents from the mountains.
K
THE
74
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINO´R.
THE Smyrnéans were extremely jealous of their property in
Homer. Befides a brafs coin or medal diſtinguiſhed by his name,
they had an Homerium, his temple and image furrounded.
with a quadrangular Stoa, in the new city; and ſhowed a cave
by the fources of the Meles, where they ſaid he had compoſed
verſes. I fearched for this above the Aquæduct, and in the bank
on the left hand difcovered a cavern, about four feet wide,
the roof a huge rock cracked and flanting, the fides and bottom
fandy. The mouth, at which I crept in, is low and narrow;
but there is another avenue, wider and higher, about three feet
from the ground, and almoſt concealed with brambles. It may
be entered alfo from above where the earth has fallen in. Beyond
it we found a paffage cut, leading into a kind of well, in which
was a ſmall channel to convey water to the Aquæduct, This was
dry, but near it was a current with a like aperture.
1
Z
THE River-God is reprefented on medal's leaning on an urn
with a cornucopia in his hand, to fignify that he diſpenſed fer-
tility; or bearing a lyre, as a friend to the mufes. He has been
much extolled by the antient poets, and raiſed, from his fup-
pofed connection with Homer, to a kind of preeminence among
the river deities. An old fophift, alluding to epithets beſtowed
by Homer, fays of the Meles, that, boaſting ſuch a ſon, he
needed not envy the filver-vortexes of one river; or another, his
Smoothness; a third, that he is termed divine; or a fourth, beau-
tiful; Xanthus or Scamander, the river near Troy, his deſcent
from Jupiter; nor the ocean, that he is ftiled their general
parent.
*
A
1
*
CHAP.
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 75
ダ
​A
مل
The Gulf of Smyrná
CHA P. XXI.
Menimen The river Hermus The
The mouth ---
ſtrait ---The ſboals --- The plain of the Hermus
**Of Leuce The extremity of the plain --- Of Phocéa
changes to be expected.
1
Future
THE gulf of Smyrna, which has been computed about ten
leagues long, is ſheltered by hills, and affords fecure anchorage.
The mouth of the river Hermus is on the north fide, within two
leagues and a half of the city. The mountain, which bounds
the bay of old Smyrna on the north, extends weftward to a level
plain, in which the river runs. The Hermus, with the Mæan-
der, was antiently famous for a fifh called Glanis, and for mul-
let; which came up from the fea in great numbers, particularly
in fpring.
THE fertility of the foil by the river, and the plenty
of water for the uſes of gardening and agriculture, with other
advantages, has occafioned the ſettling of numerous villages on
that fide of the gulf. Menimen, which is the principal, ſup-
plies Smyrna with fruits, fiſh, and provifions, boats paffing to
and fro without intermiffion. Near the ſcale or landing-place,
which is three hours from Menimen, is a large quantity of low
land, bare, or covered only with fhallow water. This tract is the
fite of a confiderable fiſhery; being inclofed by reed-fences with
gates or avenues, which are ſhut up to prevent the ſhoals from
retreating, when they have once entered. We faw on the beach
many camels laden, or ſtanding by their burthens; and met on
the road ſome boftangees, and travellers from Arabia and other
eaſtern countries, going to or returning from Conftantinople.
The hills were enlivened by flocks of fheep and goats; and re-
founded with the rude mufic of the lyre and of the pipe, the
former a ftringed inftrument reſembling a guittar, and held much
in the fame manner, but ufually played on with a bow. We
K 2
were
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
of
were then engaged with fome of our countrymen in a ſhooting
party, and in traverfing the mountains, I had a diftinct view of
Menimen. It is fituated on a rifing ground by the Hermus, and
appeared as a confiderable place, with old canles. I have fome-
times fufpected it to have been antiently called Neontichos; but
theſe parts, with the whole country of Eolia, fill remain, un-
explored.
→
THE Hermus, which in the winter had fpread a wide flood
over the plain, now, after paffing Menimen, purfued its way to
the fea, through low grounds in fome places, ſtill under wa-
ter; the ſtream not wide, but full, and winding toward the
mouth, by which the foil appeared bare, and as mud undried,
In fummer it has a bar at the entrance, and is often shallow.
The plain had many channels formed by torrents, from the
mountains.
2
NEAR the mouth of the river is a fand-bank or fhoal. The
channel there is very narrow, the land on the oppoſite fide run-
ning out, and forming a low point, on which is a fortreſs erect-
ed, to fecure the approach to the city, foon after the battle of
the Dardanelles in 1656, when the Venetians defeated the fleet
of Mahomet the fourth. It is called Sangiac caſtle, becauſe the
Grand Signior's colours are on fome occafions hoisted there..
BESIDES the visible acceffion of land by the Hermus, and on
the margin of the gulf, feveral banks lie concealed beneath the
water, on either hand, failing up to Smyrna.. The principal one
next the river, it is faid, was formerly a dry and green flat;
which fuddenly funk after an earthquake, probably that which
happened in 1739, and was. fo. great, as: to, occafiom a general
terror, many families from apprehenfion abandoning their houſes
after it, and fleeping all the fummer in huts in their gardens and
court-yards. Ships often go upon it, without much danger, and
are foon afloat again, if the wind fet in. The end is driven out
in an elbow toward the Sangiac caftle by a, ftrong current: from
r
1
1
the
TRAVELS.1*. ASIA MINOR. **
the bay of old Smyrna; but the head is firmly fixed, and it will
gradually re-emerge, and become dry and green as before. I have
failed often by fhoals on the fame fide as the caftle in the way
to the olive groves, which, I was told, had rifen above the fur-
face of the fea, within a few years. On one or two of them was
a hut belonging to fome poor fithermen.
THE beautiful and extensive plains, which were of old re-
garded as peculiar to the country, have been justly ſtiled the
offspring of its rivers. The Hermus, the Cayſter, and the Mæ-
ander, were each noted for producing new land; and had each
a diftrict aptly called by its name, as by that of the parent.
The mouth of the Hermus has been continually fhifting and
changing place in confequence of the encroachments made on
the fea. Hence Pliny writes, "The town of Temnos has been,
but the rocks called Myrmeces, The Pifmires, within the extre-
mity of the gulf, now are, at the mouth of the Hermus." It is
at preſent much nearer to Smyrna than appears in the maps in
general, and perhaps than it was a few centuries ago.
THE fame author mentions, that Leuce, then a promontory
in the Smyrnéan gulf, had once been an ifland. This fpot had
on it a ſmall town of the fame name, founded in the fecond year
of the ninety ninth Olympiad by Tachos a Perfian malecontent,
who died foon after. The people of Cyme and of Clazomene
contended for it, and agreed to fubmit their cauſe to the deci-
fion of the oracle at Delphi, when the Pythia gave Leuce to the
claimant, which fhould firft facrifice there in the temple of
Apollo. The Clazomenians were the more remote, but by their
management obtained the place. Ariftonicus, an illegitimate fon
of king Eumenes, got poffeffion of it on the death of Attalus
Philometor. The Roman conful Craffus was fent against him,
and killed fighting near it.
}
IT
1
78
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
IT happened, that our paffage up and down the gulf was in
the night; but when we failed from Smyrna, the Inbat met us
near the entrance, and we fteered our boat into a ſmall creek on
the north fide, below the Hermus, and an hour from Phoggia,
or Phocéa. We had there a view of the extremity of the plain,
which is wide, low, and level, encircling the rocks once called
the Myrmeces, and a ſmall mountain or hill with a ſmooth_top.
This, it is believed, was the iſland and promontory. It has now
a long ſpit, running out into the ſea.
ON the coaſt, after Leuce, was antiently the city Phocéa,
and oppofite to it the mouth of the river Hermus. Beyond Pho-
céa were the boundaries of Ionia and Æolia, leſs than two hun-
dred ſtadia or twenty five miles diftant from Smyrna. Phocéa
was fituated in a bay, the city oblong, the wall inclofing a ſpace
of two miles and five hundred paces, the fides then meeting and
forming as it were a wedge, which they called Lamptera, where
it was one mile and two hundred paces wide. A tongue of land
then running a mile out into the ſea, and dividing the bay about
the middle, formed two fecure ports, one on each fide of the
Ifthmus; that toward the fouth called Nauftathmos; the other,
which was near, Lamptera. The preſent town' is ſeated on the
tongue, within the Ifthmus, and the antient fite is called Palæa-
Phoggia or Old Phocéa. It has on the north four islets, one
named St. George, lying before the harbour.
THE river Hermus, by its influence on the gulf, has already
effected great changes, and will gradually accompliſh fome fignal
alterations, of which the progreſs deferves to be accurately mark-
ed. The flats before Smyrna will mutually approach; and leav-
ing only a narrow ingrefs, the city be on a lake. This will be
fed by the Meles and by torrents, and in time become freſh.
The plague of gnats will then, if poffible, be multiplied at
:
• See Views in Le Brun p. 166.
Smyrna.
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
79
Smyrna. The land will continue to increaſe, until it is in a line
with the mouth of the gulf, when the fite of Clazomene and
the iflets within Kara-bornu, will be encompaffed with foil;
and, if no current intervene, Phocéa will be deprived of its har-
bour. The fea within the gulf will by degrees give place to a
noble plain created and watered by the Hermus. Commerce will
have then removed to fome more commodious mart, and Smyrna
be, if not utterly deſerted, defolate and forlorn.
CHA P. XXII.
A tendour Mild
Return of the cranes ----
We
Rumour of the plague --- Con-
Our fecond journey --- Method.
Our firhman Firft journey from Smyrna
ness of the winter at Smyrna
prepare for another journey
firmed Our embarraſſment
ON our return to Smyrna in the evening of the eighteenth
of September from a ſmall excurfion with a party of our coun-
trymen, we were agreeably furprized to find the Anglicana ar-
rived in the bay from Conftantinople. The captain brought with
him a firhman or Travelling Command, obtained for us from the
Porte by the Engliſh embaſſador. This inftrument enjoined all
the governors, the judges, the officers of the janizaries and of
the revenue, to whom we ſhould prefent it, not to moleft us
or our European fervants, on any pretence, nor to exact tribute
from us, but to protect and defend us, and permit us to profe-
cute our journies without obftruction, as they reſpected the
imperial Signature. It was dated about the middle of the moon
Rebiulevvèl in the year of the Hegira 1178; or of September
1764.
A fmall
80-
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
+
}
A ſmall portion of the year yet remained not unfit for tra
velling. Finding our Engliſh bedding far too cumberſome, we
purchaſed thin mattreffes ſtuffed with cotton, fome tin kettles,"
plates, and other like neceffaries; and hired a janizary, with
two grooms and a cook, Armenians. One horſe carried our bag-
gage. We ſet out on the thirtieth of September, and were ab
fent until the twenty ninth of October. The weather, which
had favoured us, then became rainy and bad, but foon changed"
again to mild and agreeable.
THE happy temperature of the climate of Ionia in general
has been much celebrated by the antients. At Smyrna, the
houſes, except thoſe erected by the Europeans, have ſeldom
chimnies or fire-places in the rooms. In cold weather it is uſual
to place a pan of charcoal beneath a table, over which a carpet or
handſome counterpane is ſpread, the fides reaching to the floor.
This is called a Tendour. The family fit round, warming their
legs and hands under the cover.
As winter advanced, the ſky, which in fummer is moſt re-
markably clear and ferene, varied; and we had alternately fun-
hine and rain. Southerly winds chiefly prevailed, bringing
clouds on the mountains, from which proceeded thunder and
lightening. The showers renew the verdure, which in the middle
of December was as fine as I ever faw, with marigolds and ane-
monies fpringing fpontaneouſly from the turf beneath the olive-
trees in great profufion. At the fame time thickets of myrtle in
bloffom adorned the waſte; and in the gardens the golden fruit
glittered among the deep-green leaves of the orange-trees. The
foutherly quarter is warm, as well as wet; but the flowers, which
it produces, inftantly droop and wither before the northerly and
eafterly winds. Theſe in ſummer are hot, coming over parched
plains and naked mountains expoſed to the fun; but at this ſea-
fon are extremely bleak and penetrating, and bring fnow on the
diftant hills, that or fleet rarely falling in the champaign country
་
or
}
TRAVELS IN
IN ASIA
81
MINOR.
1
1
*
or vallies. The north-eaft is often attended with heavy rain,
without thunder. In the coldest day we felt, our thermometer
was at forty nine; but in December the fun at times was pow-
erful, and the air fultry and once in that month, the ſame
thermometer rofe to eighty in the fhade. We had plenty of
daffodils and hyacinths. Early in February the almond-trees
bloſſomed, and roſes and carnations were common and fold about
the ſtreets. Upon the whole, we enjoyed, except fome few in-
tervals, an azure ſky, with exquifite ſoftneſs, ſuch as cannot be
defcribed.
A company of cranes, returning from their winter quarters,
Hew in orderly array over Smyrna, on the ninth of March, north-
ward. Another foon followed, and then many; fome by day,
when they are ſeen changing their figure and leader; fome by
moon-light, when they are heard, high in air, repeating their
noify fignals. At the fame time the bees were obſerved to be in
motion. Theſe were regarded as fure figns that winter was at
an end, and as foretelling fettled weather.
I had began early to prepare for another journey, and ſtudied
to remove or remedy, as far as poffible, the inconveniences we
had before experienced, by providing a tent and increaſing the
number of our attendants and horſes. It was thought proper
not to move until the Ramazan or Lent of the Turks, during
which they are often four and churlish, was over; and the ge-
neral change or re-appointment of the governors, which is made
in March, had taken place.
A rumour, that the plague had appeared in Smyrna, was cur-
rent, but not credited; it often happening that fuch ſtories are
propagated to ferve a private purpoſe, or to diſtreſs the trade
of a rival factory. It was now again afferted, that a perſon was
ill or dead of the diſeaſe, and an Engliſh ſhip left the bay only
half laden.
L
WE
พ
82
TRAVELS IN ASLA MINOR.
WE had agreed on the thirteenth of March to leave Smyrna
on the twenty firft. On the eighteenth we were informed, that
our janizary was unwilling to go then; Bairam or the Furkish
holidays beginning the next day; but was ready to fet out with
us either before or two days after. We then fixed on the twenty
fifth. Between the feventeenth and twentieth we were affured,
that four or five perfons more had been attacked by the
plague, imported, it was faid, from Mufconifi or Tino, in which
iſlands and in Scio it was well known the diftemper had refided
for fome time. Thefe accidents difconcerted us exceedingly, and
feemed to threaten a final period to our expedition.
A
3
+
&
محمد
IT may be imagined that during our abode with the conful,
the plague had been a frequent topic of our converfation. We
were told, this ſeaſon ſeldom paffed without fome appearance of
it; that often the malady did not fpread, or was partial, and of
ſhort duration; that it was communicated only by contact with
fome perſon or thing infected; and that the Franks, who are
accounted lefs liable to receive it than the people of the country,
continue, unleſs it be very general, their bufinefs and recrea-
tions as uſual: but on the other hand, the approaching holi-
days both of the Turks and Chriftians made: it not-improbable
that the contagion would be carried to and fro, and that it would
foon extend over the whole city and its vicinity. We had be-
fore us perfonal danger, and the apprehenfion of a tedious and
diſagreeable confinement, not without its perils, if we remained
at Smyrna or in Afia. In fuch fituations as thefe even extreme
timidity ſcarcely deferves cenfure. Among other expedients,
it was propofed to purſue the general plan of our voyage by croſs-
ing over to Athens, and returning in autumn, when the plague
ſhould have ceaſed; but this meaſure too had its rifques and in-
conveniences; and at length, as the places fufpected were only
Smyrna and Pergamo, after due deliberation, we refolved to pro-
ceed on our intended journey.
+
WE
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
83
We quitted, the conful's houfe on Monday the twenty fifth
of March 1765, attended by a Swifs and fome Armenian fer-
vants, with a mule and horſes carrying provifion-chefts, utenfils
for cooking, our tent, bedding, and other requifites; all toge-
ther forming a very motley caravan or proceffion, headed by a
janizary. The Frank families had then ſhut up, as it is termed,
or had retired into the country for fecurity from the infection.
We did not return to Smyrna until the eighth of Auguft.
· SOME Occurrences, which will be related, made it prudent
to contract this journey within a much narrower out-line than
was previously defigned. The two falling in with each other
and jointly completing our furvey of theſe parts as far as we
found practicable, we ſhall unite them in our narrative; this
method enabling us to follow nearly the courſe of the country:
beginning with the latter, which was the moſt extenſive, and
marking their mutual coincidence, with the different ſeaſons, in
which they were performed.
3
CHAP. XXIII.
Sea-coast of Ionia.---- Vourla reputed Clazomene
The Olive-
groves --- Veftiges of an antient bridge ---The Agamemnonian hot
baths Prefent State ---Ifthmus of the Peninſula --- The dyke
Villages The town of Vourla..
cut by Alexander
THE fea-coast of Ionia extended from Phocea and the Her
mus fouthward to Pofidium, a promontory of the Milefans, and
to the Carian mountains. The ſhape was irregular, it abounding
in bays and peninfulas. The cities were all originally maritimes
their number on the continent ten, befides Smyrna; their fitua-
tion as uncommonly fine as their climate. It has been faid of
this
L 2
}
*
84
this
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
}
country, that it boaſted temples, ſuch as were poffeffed by
no other region, and many wonders hardly exceeded even in Hel-
las or Greece.
THE city of Ionia next to Smyrna was Clazomene. As this
place was within the gulf, on the fouth-fide, and the diſtance
antiently reckoned only twelve miles, we fuppofed the fite
known to the people of Smyrna, and the modern name to be,
as they informed us, Vourla. We refolved therefore to begin
our fecond journey with that town, diftant by computation fix:
hours; hoping, if the plague did not ceafe at Smyrna during
our abſence, we might at leaſt eſcape its fury; and expecting
to obtain fecurity and fatisfaction in proportion as we removed
from the feat of infection and of its fure concomitant, mor-
tality.
WE fet out on the twenty fifth of March, and paffing through
the lower portion of the city, croffed the mouth of the dry port
to a road between the burying-grounds on the hill and the fea.
There, on the right hand, near the end of the graves, may be
ſeen a piece of teffellated pavement running under the bank..
After going over a bare craggy ridge, we turned weftward
into a wood of olives, in which we remarked many trees with
huge knotty trunks indicating extreme old age. The green level
was enamelled with anemónies and other beautiful flowers. The
ſky was clear and ferene, and the breeze gentle and deliciouſly
foft. The Europeans refort to thefe groves on ſhooting parties
in boats from the town, or with their families for pleaſure and
the benefit of the air.
We came now to a ſhallow river, over which is a lofty bridge
intended to ſecure a paffage to the traveller when torrents de-
ſcend from the adjacent mountain, formerly called Corax. On
this principally the clouds feen from Smyrna refide, when the
wind is foutherly. Nearer the foot are veftiges of an antient
bridge, of which the piers were rebuilt or repaired before its final
ruin ;
*
4
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
85
કે
ruin; and in one of them is a maimed Corinthian capital. I once
purſued the ftream a confiderable way into the mountain. It
flowed rapid and tranſparent over the rough ſolid rock, its courſe
deep-funk between fhaggy fummits, whofe fides are almoft per-
pendicular, and inacceffible even to goats; a crouded flock then
browfing below. We met, befides theſe and their keepers, a
peaſant or two by a little over-ſhot mill, the wretched tenants of
this folemn and ſtriking recefs.
SOME fragments of architecture, to be feen in the Turkiſh
burying-grounds not far from hence, it is likely, belonged, with
the above relique, to the temple of Apollo once feated on the weft-
ern bank of this ſtream by the hot baths, which were computed
forty ftadia or five miles from Smyrna, and were called the
Agamemnonian. It it related, that the Grecian army ravaging
Myfia, was engaged by Telephus near the river Caicus, and that
Agamemnon, with many of his foldiers, was wounded in the bat-
tle. An oracle directed him for a cure to theſe waters, which
long retained his name; and here he fufpended the helmets.
taken from the enemy. The old remains of the buildings are of
brick, the mafonry good, but foil and rubbish have rifen to the
impoſts of the arches, which are cloſed.
You defcend by fteps to the bath, which is under a
modern vaulted roof, with vents in it for the ſteam; and adjoin-
ing to this, is a like room now difufed. The current, which is
foft and limpid, is conveyed into a ſmall round bafin of marble,
and runs over into a larger ciftern or refervoir beneath it. Our
thermometer roſe in the vein to 150. Near it is a duct, which
ſupplies a cold ſtream, but in January, when I ſaw it, was dry.
A quantity of coagulated blood lay on the pavement. I was in-
formed a ſheep had been killed above, and that ſubſtance uſed
inſtead of ſoap in fhaving, which operation is often performed in
the baths. The warm rill emerges in two or more places in the
bed of the river, and in cool weather may eaſily be diſcovered, a
thick miſt riſing from it viſible afar off.
AFRER
{
4
86
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
AFTER paffing the river and Sangiac caſtle, we came to the
fea-fide, and about eleven to a coffee-hut, at which we alighted
and tarried twenty minutes. At one we opened the neck of the
peninfula. This is the fouthern boundary of the gulf. The
Clazomenians antiently inhabited on the north-fide, bordering
on the Erythréans, who were within it. The Teians were on
the ſouth, with a port north of their city. Hitherto our courſe
weſtward had been chiefly beneath the northern termination of
Mount Corax.
THE Ifthmus of the peninfula appears as a wide pleaſant
valley, and the land being moftly level, we could difcern acroſs
it the blue tops of the iſland Samos. Its width¹ was reckoned
fifty ſtadia or fix miles and a quarter; and the periplus or cir-
cumnavigation of the peninſula, a thouſand ſtadia or one hundred
twenty five miles. The diſtance of Smyrna from Epheſus in a
ftrait line was only three hundred and twenty ftadia or forty
miles; but, if you coafted, near two thouſand two hundred fta-
dia or two hundred and feventy five miles; owing principally to
this peninfula. Alexander the Great, to render the commu-
nication eafier, ordered, that a navigable cut fhould be made
through the plain here, intending to join the two bays, and by
converting the whole Cherronefe into an iſland to furround the
city Erythræ and Mount Mimas with the fea. A dyke or canal
running up the valley is a monument of that attempt, which
failed, when the workmen came to the rock. We paffed it over
a bar of fand at the mouth. The Inbat blowing fresh, and the
waves dafhing over, two of our horfes ftarted afide, floundered
deep, and wetted our baggage. A like accident in fording ano-
ther water afterwards occafioned fome delay.
1 In Pliny feven miles and an half.
2
NE
*
TRAVIEL S IN ASÍA MINOR.
87
WE continued our journey along the ſhore. The hills on our
left were covered with low fhrubs, and villages, fome of a clean
dry afpect, and ſeveral not immediately difcernible, though near;
the mud-built cottages being exactly of the fame colour with
the foil. As we approached Vourla, the little vallies were all
green with corn, or filled with vine-ftocks, about a foot and a
half high, in orderly arrangement. The people were at work,
many in a row, turning the earth, or encircling, the naked trunks
with tar, to fecure the buds from grubs and worms. The fhoots,
which bear the fruit, are cut down again in winter. A mart
like Smyrna diffuſes cultivation through all its vicinity.
VOURLA is diſtinguiſhed at a diſtance by its numerous wind-
mills. On entering the town, we faw nobody, the houſes were
ſhut up, and:a filence and folitude prevailed, which, before we
recollected what we had lately feen, fuggefted to us the terrible
idea, that the inhabitants had left it, to avoid the cruel diftemper,
from which we alſo were flying. It is a place of confiderable ex-
tent, the buildings difperfed on eminences; with a pleaſant
plain toward the fea. The water and air are reputed good. The
Turks have ſeven mofques, and the Greeks two churches. At
one of theſe is a ſmall baſs-releif, reprefenting a funereal fupper,
with a ſhort inſcription. Another is fixed in the wall over a foun-
tain. We were recommended by letter to an Italian, a practitio-
ner in phyfic, who attended us about the town, and ſhowed us
every civility in his power. A curſory view of this place was
ſufficient to convince us that it did not ſtand on the fite of Cla-
zomene.
L
CHAP.
88 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR,
༥
*
CHA P. XXIV.
Search for Clazomene Diſcover the mole-Pafs over- The
fite-Iflets - We re-pafs — Origin of Vourla.
WE were affifted by the friendly Italian in our enquiries for
a ruined city in that neighbourhood, and in the evening procured
a man to conduct us, as we ſuppoſed, to the fite of Clazomene.
We ſet out early in the morning, when he carried us back to
the opening of the Ifthmus, and fhowed us, for Clazomene, a
piece of ordinary wall, which has incloſed a ciftern on the top
of a hill, with ſome ſcattered rubbiſh on the flope. There, if I
miſtake not, was antiently the fettlement of the Chalcidenfians,
probably a colony from Chalcis in Euboea, belonging to Clazo-
mene; and above them was a grove facred to Alexander, where
the games called Alexandréa were celebrated by the Ionian
body.
FINDING Our guide ignorant and at a lofs which way to go,
we adopted the furer direction of antient hiſtory; remember-
ing, that the Clazomenians, to be more fecure from the Per-
fians, had fettled in an ifland, which, by command of Alexander,
was afterwards changed into a peninfula by the addition of a
mole. We croffed the plain of Vourla, flanting toward the ſea,
and foon diſcovered this monument alfo of that great mind,
which delighted in correcting or fubduing nature by filling up or
forming paths for the deep; which here ſtill bore vifible marks
of his royal pleaſure, and raged, as it were indignant, but in
vain, againſt the barrier, which he had appointed.
THE mole was two ftadia or a quarter of a mile in length,
but we were ten minutes in croffing it; the waves, which were
impelled by a ſtrong Inbat, breaking over in a very formidable
manner,
TRAVELS
89
IN ASIA
MINOR.
manner, as high as the bellies of our horſes. The width, as we
conjectured, was about thirty feet. On the weft fide, it is fronted
with a thick ftrong wall, fome pieces appearing above the water.
On the oppofite is a mound of looſe pebbles, ſhelving as a but-
trefs, to withſtand the furious affaults of ſtorm and tempeſt. The
upper works have been demolished, and the materials, a few
large rough ſtones excepted, removed.
}
WE computed the island to be about a mile long, and a
quarter broad. The city was fmall, its port on the N. N. W.
fide. Traces of the walls are found by the fea, and in a hill are
veſtiges of a theatre. Three or four trees grow on it, and by
one is a cave' hewn in the rock, and affording water. The foil
was now covered with green corn. A vaulted room with a
chimney at one end, and a hovel or two made with ftones piled,
are all the preſent ſtructures; and theſe are chiefly frequented
by fiſhermen and by perfons employed to watch and to drive
away birds, when the grain ripens. Referring to this confined
fituation of Clazomene, a famous fophift, when importuned to
adorn his native city by refiding in it rather than at Smyrna, re-
plied, the nightingale refufes to fing in a cage.
By Clazomene is a cluſter of iflets, all once cultivated,
now neglected and barren. Their number was eight, but I could
count only fix. One is called Long Iſland, and by fome the Eng-
liſh Iſland, becauſe, as they relate, a party of our countrymen from
Smyrna landing on it for their diverfion, were attacked fuddenly
and murdered there by banditti or pirates. Some of theſe iflets,
*
1 A cave is mentioned by Paufanias p. 211. It is thus defcribed by Randolph.
Nothing remains but the cave, which is cut out of firm rock, almoſt ſquare, fupported
with four pillars of the fame rock. To the eastward is part of an altar, and in the
middle is a well, but the water is brackish, and not fit to be drank. State of the
iflands in the Archipelago. 1687.
2 Three of them were called Marathufa, Pele, Drymufa. It is probable the
names of all of them are contained in a paffage of Pliny, 1. 5 c. 37.
、
$
M
and
ة و
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
and perhaps even of the Oenuffe without the gulf, may owe their
origin or increaſe to the river Hermus.
AFTER making the circuit of the ifland, we fate down by
the Ifthmus to dine, when our attention was engaged by a large
company landing at the fcale or road of Vourla, which is weſt-
ward from the mole, and had in it fome ſmall-craft, with a few
houſes and a mofque on the fhore. An irregular diſcharge of
guns and piſtols followed, in compliment, as our guide told us,
to the new Aga or governor, who was then arrived. In the mean
time the Inbat increaſed very faft, as ufual toward ſunſet, and
with it the fwell of the fea. We began to with, that we had
repaffed the mole as foon as our curiofity was gratified; and to
apprehend, that without a ſpeedy removal, we might be des
tained much longer on this deferted fpot than we ſhould like.
Our horfes were fhy of the furf, and one of our company in-
clining too much to the left to avoid it got into deep water, but
foon recovered the track.
}
•
3
AMONG the caufes, which have co-operated in bringing on
the general defolation of theſe coafts, may be numbered the out-
rages ſuffered from licentious pirates under a weak or bad go-
vernment, and the hoftilities committed by privateers. The for-
mer have in all ages infefted thefe feas; encouraged by the fre-
quent creeks and portlets; where they may lie unnoticed, look-
ing out for their prey from eminences, which command exten-
five views of the canals between the iſlands; or ready, on the
approach of a ſuperior force, to abandon their veffels and efcape
to the mountains. The Clazomenians, molefted, it is faid, by
Corfairs of Tino, retired from the fea to the continent, where
they were less liable to be furpriſed. Many other places owe
their origin to the fame motives of apprehenfion and prudence as
Vourla.
บ
1
CHA P.
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 95
#
CHAP. XXV.
Of the Kara-borniotes Mount Mimas
Erythra --- The fite - Iflets
Night Arrive at
Remains
BEYOND Clazomene the peninſula becoming very moun-
tainous, with narrow and difficult paffes, affords many places of
refuge, inacceffible, or eafily defended. Hence the Kara-bor-
´niotes, or inhabitants of the ſouthern cape of the gulf, were
long infamous as pirates and robbers, and had the general cha-
racter of a very bad people. We were now told, that their man-
ners were changed, and their difpofition lefs ferocious and in-
human; that they attend to the culture of the vine and the ma-
nagement of the filk-worm, and frequent the market of Smyrna
with the produce. We thought it prudent, however, to increaſe
our guard and hire another janizary, intending to go to Erythræ,
now corruptly called Ritre.
WE fet out from Vourla early in the morning, and in an hour,
after croffing a ſmall promontory, came to the bottom of a deep
bay, which, with an iſland in it, is almoſt land-locked, lying
immediately within the cape. We then afcended a ridge of
mount Mimas; and paſſing a ſtream, entered on a rugged nar-
row track between very lofty cliffs and by the fide of a water-
courſe. frightfully fteep. We were engaged in this ftrait four
hours, our baggage-horfes falling, or being jammed with their
burthens, where the rocks projected. At length we arrived in
view of a plain deep-funk among the hills, which ſurround it.
Before us. was a gray ridge feen at Smyrna; and a little on the
left, a top of the iſland Scio; behind us were the two white
conical fummits of mount Corax called The Brothers, which ferve
as a ſea-direction in navigating the gulf.
hardam, a Turkish village, where we
We defcended to Cer-
alighted about three in
M 2
the
92
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
+
the afternoon. We had propoſed paffing the night here, as our
men and horſes were weary, but could get neither lodging nor
corn.
AFTER dining beneath a tree, we continued our journey
acroſs a ridge to Cadoagi, a fmall place near an hour farther
on. Here we had our tent pitched for the first time within an
incloſure by a cottage, and ſlept in it. Our bedding was a ſmall
carpet, mattreſs, and coverlet. Each had by his fide a gun,
fword, and a pair of loaded piftols. The Swifs guarded the
mouth of the tent. The nights were as yet cold, and our jani-
zary was provided with a cloke of a dark colour, ſhaggy, and
very thick, made without a feam, with a cape or rather 'cowl
for his head. Wrapped in this, he lay down like Diomed in his
bull-ſkin, in the open air, with his piſtol and fabre by him, and
his gun in his hand. Our other attendants were likewife dif-
perfed, moftly on the ground, round about the tent, armed as
by day; and one of the Armenians watched the horſes, which
were faftened to ftakes with their faddles on.
At the dawn of day we rofe, and a table-cloth was fpread
on the ground, when we breakfaſted on dried figs, bread, butter,
which we carried with us, and garlic; drinking wine or water,
and a cup
of coffee. In the mean time our men ftruck the tent,
and got ready our baggage. The fun only began to appear on
the mountain-top, and a low fhining mift concealed the valley
beneath us, when we began our journey; travelling over and
between the wild ridges of mount Mimas. In two hours we
came to a vale, well watered, and ſtored with myrtles and ever-
greens. Here we obferved fome pieces of an antient wall, which
had been erected acroſs it; and after paffing the ruin of a moſque,
which has a fepulchral infcription fixed over the door way, an
opening afforded us a view of the fite of Erythræ, of the ſea, and
of the iſland Scio. We entered at a gap in the ruins of the city-
wall, where we ſuppoſed a gate-way to have been; and finding
no
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
93.
}
no ſhade, pitched our tent on a green ſpot, extending it as a wide
umbrella to ſhelter us from the fun, then ſhining exceedingly
bright and powerful.
THE walls of Erythra were erected on two ſemicircular rocky
brows, and had fquare towers at regular diſtances. They were very
thick, the ftones maffive and rugged, the maſonry that called pſeud-
ifodomum. In the middle was a fhallow lively ftream, clear as
chryſtal, which turns a folitary mill in its way to the fea. This
rivulet was antiently named Aleos, and was remarkable for pro-
ducing hair on the bodies of thoſe who drank of it. Near the
mouth is a piece of ordinary mofaic pavement. By a conical hill
on the north are veftiges of an ample theatre in the mountain-
fide; and farther on, by the fea, three pedeſtals of white mar-
ble; and an old fquare fortrefs ftanding on a low ſpot, a little
inland. We ſearched in vain for a temple of Hercules, which
has been mentioned as of the higheſt antiquity, and as refem-
bling the temples of Egypt. The God was repreſented on a
float, on which they related that he arrived at Erythræ from
Phoenicia.
BEFORE the port of Erythræ are four iſlets, once called Hippi,
The Horfes; and beyond theſe are the Spalmadore iſlands, by
which we failed in our ſtormy paffage from Scio to Kara-bornu.
A promontory of mount Mimas beyond Erythræ was named
Coryna; and one near mid-way failing toward Scio, Hera
Mefate.
A
ERYTHRAE has been long deferted, and, like Clazomene,
ftripped even of its ruins, except fome maffes of hard cement, a
few vaults of fepulchres, a fragment of inſcribed architrave, a
broken column or two, and a large ftone, on which is carved a
round ſhield. The rock afforded a natural foundation for the
houſes and public edifices, and the materials, when they were
ruined, lay ready to be tranfported to Scio and other places,
which continued to flourish. Some words were visible on one
of
1
94
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
of the pedeſtals. We would have cleared them all from weeds
and rubbiſh, which concealed their infcriptions; but our guide
had affirmed, that we could not paſs the night here without
danger; our horſes were ſtanding ready, and we had no time to
fpare.
$
น
}
Of the peninfula
CHAP. XXVI.
Chifmé — Mount Corycus — Mount Mimas
End of the peninſula — At Segigeck
- At Segigeck — Antiquities --- Cranes.
ERYTHRÆ was about mid-way in the periplus or circum-
navigation of the peninfula. It had to the north a village named
Cybellia, and the cape, by which was a quarry dug for mill-
ftones. The lofty mountain to the fouth was called Corycus,
and its promontory Argennum. This ran out toward Pofidium,
a promontory of Chios, from which it was ſeparated by a ftrait
about fixty ſtadia or ſeven miles and an half wide. In Corycuş a
cave was ſhown, in which they faid the Sibyl Herophile was
born. Its coaft had ſeveral ports, and was much infefted by
pirates and robbers. After Corycus was Gera, a ſmall town of
the Teians by the port north of their city. The third tribe of
the Erythréans had its name from a region called Chalcitis,
peopled with Chalcidenfians; and the fea-baths by a cape of
that diſtrict were eſteemed fuperior to any in Ionia.
WE had been told that at Chiſmé, a town fince noted for the
deftruction of the Turkish navy by the Ruffians, and diftant
about five hours from Erythra, were fpatious and handſome
baths erected by the Genoefe. We had intended feeing them,
but were now informed that the place was, almoſt abandoned,
the plague having been carried thither from Scio.
3
+
OUR
TRAVELS. IN ASIA MINOR.
95
OUR guide, at fetting out, conducted us to the thore; and
winding fouthward, we afcended a lofty ridge of mount Cory-
cus, from which we had an extenſive view of the coaft, of the
channel of Scio, and of the gulf of Smyrna. The Brothers were
before us, and behind us Chifmé. The mountain was covered
with low fhrubs. We then defcended to the ftation of fome
goatherds, guarded by feveral large and fierce dogs. In three
hours and a half we came unexpectedly to the village on mount
Mimas, where we lay the preceding night.
*
THE valley beneath us, and the fide of the mountain, were
again enveloped in thick fhining mift, when we began our jour-
nay; and keeping along the fouthern edge of a plain, re-
afcended mount Mimas, which the antients have defcribed as
woody and abounding in wild beafts. The flopes here were
clothed with pines and ſhrubs, and garniſhed with flowers, many
of a bright yellow, refembling fmall fingle pinks. The hogs
had rooted up the green corn in ſeveral places. At noon we
came to the bay, which we paffed in going to Erythræ; and
ftriking off to the right, difmounted to dine by a copious foun-
tain. We had fuffered much from the fun, and were greatly
fatigued.
AFTER enjoying awhile the luxury of cool water and ſhade,
we continued our journey, leaving Vourla and the villages on
our left hand. As we croffed the mountain, the iſland Samos
rofe to view at a distance, and we opened the fea on the fouth-
fide of the peninfula. We paffed many fmall pleaſant ſpots,
well watered, and-green with corn, or with myrtles and fhrubs.
We defcended from mount Mimas by a road cut in the rock,
which antiently divided the Erythréan territory from the Clazo-
menian. Here the Peninfula ends. The way from hence, or
from the beginning of the Ifthmus on the fouth, to Clazomene,
was over mount Mimas to Chytrium, originally the fite of that
city, and now, it ſeems, of Vourla.
WE
96
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
}
t
1
}
We rode on to Segigeck, which was before us, by the head
of a ſhining bay, and arrived after three hours. We were
civilly received by a party of men and boys, who were gathered
about the gate on our approach, and directed to the interior for-
treſs, which was much out of repair. Here we were lodged in
an apartment over the gate-way, belonging to the aga or go-
vernor, who was abfent on a vifit of ceremony to a ſuperiór
officer, attended by moſt of the garrifon. Our horſes, ſervants,
and baggage were diſpoſed in the area or court below.
SEGIGECK was antiently called Gere, and was the port of
the city Teos toward the north. It was peopled with Chalci
denfians, who had arrived under Geres. In the wall of the for-
tification next the fea are ſeveral infcribed marbles, the colour a
blue-gray, which have been tranſported from Teos. One is
fixed in a fountain without the ſouth gate. In the hot bath are
two large fragments placed upfide down, and ferving for ſeats,
which I examined, but haftily, fearing ſome infection, as the
plague was known to be near. All theſe have been publiſhed by
the learned Chifhull. By a mofque and in the burying-grounds
are fome ſcattered fragments, and a fepulchral infcription or two.
This place is reckoned eight hours from Smyrna.
THE cranes were now arrived at their reſpective quarters, and
a couple had made their neft, which is bigger in circumference
than a buſhel, on a dome cloſe by our chamber. This pair
ftood, fide by fide, with great gravity, fhewing no concern at
what was tranſacting beneath them, but at intervals twiſting
about their long necks, and clattering with their beaks turned
behind them upon their backs, as it were in concert. This was
continued the whole night. An owl, a bird alfo unmolefted,
was perched hard by, and as frequently hooted. The crane is
tall, like a heron, but much larger; the body white, with
black pinions, the neck and legs very long, the head ſmall, and-
the bill thick. The Turks call it friend and brother, believing
it
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
97
it has an affection for their nation, and will accompany them
into the countries they fhall conquer. In the courſe of our
journey we ſaw one hopping on a wall with a fingle leg, the
maimed ſtump wrapped in linen.
4
Situation of Teos
Bacchus
CHA P. XXVII.
The temple of
Remains The port, &c.
Teos deferted --- A Venetian veſſel.
SEGIGECK ftands on the north-fide of the Ifthmus of a
ſmall rough peninſula, which extends weftward, and terminates
in a fharp low point. This perhaps was the cape once called
Macria, by which were the baths of the Teians, ſome on the
ſhore in a cavity of the rock or natural, and ſome made by art
and from oftentation. Teos was thirty ftadia or three miles and
three quarters from Geræ, and fronted the fea on the fouth-fide.
It was equidiftant from Erythræ and Chios, fixty one miles and
a half from each by the coaſt.
In the morning we croſſed the Ifthmus to Teos, now called
Bodrun. We found this city almoſt as defolate as Erythræ and
Clazomene. The walls, as we gueſſed, were about five miles
in circuit. Without them, by the way, are vaults of fepulchres
ſtripped of their marble, as it were forerunners of more indiſtinct
ruin. Inſtead of the ftately piles, which once impreſſed ideas
of opulence and grandeur, we faw a marſh, a field of barley in
ear, buffaloes ploughing heavily by defaced heaps and proſtrate
edifices, high trees fupporting aged vines, and fences of ſtones
and rubbiſh, with illegible infcriptions, and time-worn frag-
ments. It was with difficulty we diſcovered the temple of Bac-
chus, but a theatre in the fide of the hill is more confpicuous.
The vault only, on which the feats ranged, remains, with two
broken pedeſtals in the area. It fronted 15m. weft of ſouth.
N
The
98
MYND’R.
TRAVELS IN ASIA
The heap of the temple is visible from it, beneath, onthe right
hand.
THE city-port is partly dry, and fand banks rife above the
ſurface of the water. On the edge are veftiges of a wall, and
before it are two ſmall iflets. On the left hand, or toward the
continent, is a channel, which feemed artificial, the water not
deep. I faw a boy wade across it. This, unleſs it be the
mouth of a rivulet, was probably cut; for it ſeems as neceffary
to the completion of Alexander's plan, that a communication
fhould have been made between the fea here and the bay of
Geræ, as between that and the gulf of Smyrna; and it is re-
markable, that' Pliny reckons Teos among the lands. Beyond
it, by the fhore before Sevri hiffar, which ſtands inland, are four
or five tall barrows.
THE temple of Bacchus at Teos was one of the moſt céle-
brated ftructures in Tônia. The remains of it have been en-
graved at the expenſe of the fociety of Dilettähti, and publifhéd,
with its hiftory, in the Ionian Antiquities; and a 'beautiful Por-
tico has fince been erected at the feat of the Right Hon. Lord
Le Defpenfer, near High-Wykeham, under the inſpection of
Mr. Revett, in which the exact proportions of the order are
obferved.
THE town has long been deferted. It has no ruins of
churches, to prove it exifted under the Greek emperors; nor of
mofques or baths, to ſhow it was frequented by the Turks. In
the time of Anacreon, the Teians migrated from a love of
·liberty to Thrace, but fome afterwards came back, and the
city're flouriſhed. They are now utterly gone, and it is likely
never to return. The fite is a wilderneſs; and the low grounds,
which are wet, produce the iris or flag, 'blue and white. This
flower is ftamped on the money of Teos. We faw-cranes here
ftalking fingly in the corn and grafs, and picking up and gorg-
ing inſects and reptiles; or flying heavily with long!ſticks in
*
$
their
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
99
their mouths to the tops of trees, and of the remoter houſes
and chimnies, on which they had agreed to fix their habitation.
THE mafter of a Venetian ſnow, in the harbour of Segigeck,
furniſhed us with a fmall quantity of wine, but of a poor qua-
lity; otherwiſe we ſhould have drank only water on a ſpot once
facred to Bacchus, and able to ſupply a Roman fleet. The
grave Turk, its prefent owner, predeftines the cluſters of the
few vines it now bears, for his food, when ripened; or to be
dried in the fun, as raifins, for fale.
JA
CHAP. XXVII.
To Sevri-hilfar
Quarries of marble
Dionyfiafts, &c.
The town
The
OUR apprehenfions of danger from the Kara-borniotes were
now at an end. We difmiffed the Janizary, whom we had en-
gaged at Vourla, and on the thirty first of March, on the even-
ing of the ſecond day after our arrival, proceeded to Sevri-hiffar,
diftant one hour fouth-eastward. We came, foon after leaving
Segigeck, between two conical rocks, one of a green aſpect,
the other brown and bare. The tall trees by the road-fide were
covered with ſpreading vines, and at a well was a marble pedeſtal
perforated, and ferving as a mouth. The front of it is in-
fcribed with large characters, and it once ſupported the ftatue of
a great and munificent perfon, whoſe name it has not preſerved.
THE gray marble uſed by the Teians was found at no great
diſtance from the city. The rocks above-mentioned are proba-
bly remains of the quarry, to which alſo the high rocky mount,
about a mile north of Teos, ſeen in the view in the Ionian Anti-
quities, belonged. This, as Pocock relates, has, on the weft-
fide, a fmall lake in a deep bafin, which, it is imagined by the
N 2
people,
J
?
100
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
+
people, feeds all the fountains about the country; and to the
fouth of the lake is a hollow ground, where are near twenty
large pieces of gray marble, each cut out into, feveral ſteps, of
a fize which would be very difficult to move. On one he ſaw
infcribed, LOCO IIII.
SEVRI-HISSAR is an extenfive town, and may be deemed the
Vourla of the Teians; but the Greeks, though numerous, have
no church. We were lodged in a wretched mud-built khan,
by which is a lively brook, running west-north-weftward. A
ſtone bridge has been erected over it, and ſeveral piers remain.
We had croffed it more than once on the way from Segigeck.
We had here reaſon to diſlike, and to be alarmed, at the car-
riage of ſome of our Turkiſh vifitants, but the Janizary was our
fafe-guard.
MANY fcattered remnants of the antient city occur at Sevri-
hiffar. One fixed in the wall of a houſe mentions the two focieties,
the Panathenaifts and the Dionyfiafts. At the time of the Ionic
migration a colony of Athenians took poffeffion of Teos. Theſe
appear to have introduced the Panathenæa, the grand feftival of
their parent city. A crown of olive encircles the name of the
community, which had the care of its celebration; and one of
ivy that of the Dionyfiafts, who were artificers, or contractors for
the Afiatic theatres, incorporated and fettled at Teos under the
kings of Pergamum. I copied a long decree made by one of
their companies in honour of its magiftrates. The flab was
placed as a grave-ſtone in a Turkiſh burying-ground, where the
man, who ſhewed it me, with ſome affiftance, laid it flat, and
a heavy ſhower falling rendered the characters, which are large
and uninjured, eafily legible. The thanks of the community,
with a crown of olive, are given as a recompenſe for their great
liberality and trouble in office; and to perpetuate their memory
and excite an emulation of their merit, it is befides enacted, that
the decrees be engraved at their expenfe: fo defirable was this
teſtimony to the individuals, and ſo frugal the uſage in beſtow-
ing
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
IOT
ing it. The Dionyfiafts proving turbulent and feditious were
expelled Teos. They removed to Ephefus, and from thence
筏
​were tranflated by King Attalus to Myonnefus.
CHAP. XXIX.
Arrive at Hypfile --- The Myonnefus -- Hypfile a ftrong-hold.
*
THE next day in the afternoon, the weather proving fair,
we continued our journey fouthward; and, foon after fetting
"out, had a low mountain on our left hand, with an opening in
it, and a wide but dry water-courſe, which we croffed, and
then paffed over hills and dales by finall incloſures regularly
planted with oaks, many of which ſupported vines, and be-
tween the rows was barley in ear and other grain. The vala-
néa or large acorns produced by theſe trees are exported, chiefly
to Italy, where the tanners uſe them inftead of bark. Coming
to the ſhore, we turned a little to the left, and aſcended a very
lofty hill, commanding a moſt extenfive view of a pictureſque
country, of the fea-coaft, and iflands. Near the top is a foun-
tain, and over it a ſtone, on which is cut the Greek crofs. We
alighted after a pleaſant ride of three hours at Hypfile, and were
very well lodged in a large apartment, in a houſe belonging to a
Turk of Sevri-hiffar.
WE are now on the Promontory, antiently called Myonnefus
between Teos and Lebedus. The fummit has been defcribed as
conical, and ſtanding on an ample bafe. It was acceffible from
the continent by a narrow track only, and was terminated toward
the fea by wave-worn rocks, hanging over, and in fome places
projecting beyond the veſſels, to which it furniſhed a fafe ſtation
below. The Myonnefus was the property of the Teians.
1 In D'Anville's chart, Pfili-bouroun, corruptly for Hypfilebounas, The high
Mountain.
HYPSILE
102
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
་
HYPSILE is a fmall village. The name, which is Greek,
denotes its lofty fituation. It was the ftrong-hold, to which….
Cineis, whom we have mentioned in a preceding chapter, re-
tired before the army of Sultan Morat, and which he main-
tained gallantly, until his men began to mutiny. After fur-
rendering, he was murdered here, fleeping in his tent.
CHA P. XXX.
Hot waters
Their reputation
Some ruins
Lebedus --- The
iſland Afpis --- The Dionyfiafts.
WE left Hypfile at eight in the morning, and in about an
hour defcended into a narrow bottom, which was filled with a
thick ſmoke or mift, occafioned, as we difcovered on a nearer
approach, by fteam arifing from a fmall tepid brook, called
Elijah, which fupplies two mean baths on the margin; one
with a large crofs carved on a ſtone in the pavement, and chiefly
ufed by the Greeks. The bed is of a deep green colour. The
current, which tafted like copperas, is confined in a narrow
channel below, and turns two over-ſhot mills, falling ſoon after
into a ſtream, then ſhallow, but flowing from a rich vale be-´
tween the mountains, in a very wide courſe, the bed of ſtone
and white fand.
WE are now in the territory of Lebedus, which was noted
for its hot waters beyond any on the fea-coaft. They are re-
corded as equally plentiful and falubrious, as beneficial to the
human race, and at the fame time exciting its admiration.
FROM the baths we were conducted to ſome ruins called Ec-
clefia, The Church, about half an hour diſtant, on the fame fide-
of the river, and beneath the mountain we had defcended, or
Myonnefus. They confifted of naked maffes of ſtone and of
brick,
TRAVELS EN ASIA IMTN ØR. 103
1
brick, wich content, ɔbeldes a very few marble fragments; and
a baſement, with the entire floor, of a fmall temple; the whole
environed with buſhes. I rode on about a quarter of a mile to
the ſea, but found no port or other veftiges of buildings.
We returned to the road, and croffing a cultivated plain,
with at ſtream or two, came in an hour and -a-half to the fea,
and a little peninfula. fown with wheat. It has a fair beach,
and probably is the spot on which Lebedus flood. By the rocky
edge are traces of antient wall; and within it, beſides rubbiſh,
are fome pieces of doric columns. This city enjoyed a fertile
territory, but was fubverted by Lyfimachus, who removed the
inhabitants to people Ephefus. It furvived long as a village,
and became, as it were, proverbial for its folitude. It is now
´untenanted, and not even a village.
1.
→
'STRABO has mentioned an island called Aſpis, and by ſome
"Arconnefus, between 'Teos and Lebedus; that, I fuppofe, which
bore by our compaſs 68m. weft of fouth from this ſpot, and
'which 'Pocock defcribes as a long iſland, about the middle of the
bay, 'ftretching to the fouth-weft, and now called Carabafh, The
black Safh, from fome imaginary refemblance. It is omitted in
D'Anville's chart of the fea-coaft of Afia Minor.
THE Teians ſent an embäffy to the Romans, requeſting them
not to fuffer the Myonnèfus to be fortified by the Dionyfiafts,
who then removed to Lebedus, where they were received with
joy. It was the cuſtom of their Synod to hold an annual Pane-
gyris, or General Affembly, at which they facrificed to the gods,
and poured libations to their deceaſed benefactors. They like-
wife celebrated games in honour of Bacchus. The crowns,
which any of the communities had beſtowed as rewards of
merit, were announced by heralds; and the wearers applauded.
It was the buſineſs of the prefidents to provide fplendid enter-
tainments, and the meeting was folemnized with great pomp
and feftivity. This congrefs, it is probable, was held at the
ruins
104.
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
觱
​ruins deſcribed above, and that temple dedicated to the God.
their patron.
1
CHAP. XXXI.
Cross a torrent --- Afcend mount Gallefus
>
Arrive at Zillé or
Claros Remains Of the oracle and temple of Apollo --- Of
the oracular fountain and cave ---
Claros
Ephefus.
Of Colophon, Notium, and
No remains of the two former We arrive at
LEBEDUS was equidiftant, one hundred and twenty ſtadia
or fifteen miles, from Teos and from Colophon, near which
city was Claros. We proceeded with an iflet in view before us,
once facred to Diana. It was antiently believed, that does,
when big, ſwam acroſs from the continent, and were there de-
livered of their young. Our guide miſtook the track, and con-
ducted us an hour out of our way. We paffed through lanes,
olive-groves, and corn. In two hours and a half we were fud-
denly ſtopped by a wide and very turbid river, defcending from
between mount Gallefus or The Alemán, and the ſouthern extre-
mity of mount Corax, the range, which had continued on our
left hand from near Teos. It is impoffible perhaps to conceive
greater vifible rapidity, the water hurrying by with ſo preci-
pitous and head-long a courfe, it was gone like an arrow from a
bow. Our guide, after fome hefitation, entered the ftream,
which proved ſhallow, reaching only to the belly of his horſe.
We were apprehenſive a low mule, heavily laden with baggage,
would be carried away, but it ſtruggled through, and we all got
over ſafe. We tarried the night at a village an hour farther on,
high on the mountain-fide, and overlooking a rich plain and the
fea to the iſland Samos.
A
IN
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 105
(
the morning, the wind, which had been northerly for
fame time, was very cutting. We rode among the roots of
Gallefus, through pleafant thickets abounding with gold-finches.
The aërial ſummits of this immenfe mountain towered on our
left, clad with pines. We turned from the ſea, and began to
afcend a rough track between green hills; a clear ftream falling
by in murmuring cafcades. At a diftance was a village, which
appeared almoſt in the clouds. Steep fucceeded steep, as we ad-
vanced, and the path became more narrow, flippery, and un-
even. We were inftructed to let our bridle be loofe, to fit
ſteady, and to prevent the faddle from fliding back by grafping
the manes of our horfes, while they clambered up; their known
furenefs of foot our confidence and fecurity by fearful precipices
and giddy heights; where, if, from being checked or by acci-
dent, they chance to fall, down you tumble many a fathom,
without one friendly buſh or fhrub to interpoſe and contribute
to your preſervation. After much labour and ſtraining, we got
to the top of the ridge, which is exceedingly high. Here we
found the furface bare, except a few pines on one fummit, be-
neath which fome miferable cattle were ftanding, feemingly
pinched with hunger, and ruminating on the wretchednefs of
their lot. We faw at a diſtance a vaft body of water encom-
paffed with hills, being the lake or reſervoir, from which the
numerous rills and rivulets on the fides of the mountain are fed.
Farther in the country was a white top glistening with fnow;
and nearly before us, a fummit remarkably craggy, which is by
the lake of Myûs, and will be again mentioned. Several of our
horfes were:lamed in this journey to the fky, which was attended
with many moanings from the Armenians their owners.
DESCENDING Gallefus, we fuddenly diſcovered near the bot
tom fome mean huts, immediately beneath us, on the declivity.
We enquired of the inhabitants, who are Greeks, for ruins, and
they directed us to Claros, now called Zillé, by the fea. We
croffed a brook, which is in the middle of a cultivated vale, and
entered
と
​106 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
7
entered a thick grove of olives, where fome armed men ſtarted
up from under a tree, and running to the road, ftopped our fer-
vants and baggage-horfes. The Janizary, as foon as we per
ceived it, gallopped back, and a fhort parley enfued. We were
informed they belonged to the Mufelém, a Turkiſh' afficer of
great power and extenfive command, refiding at Chili, diftant
an hour and a half toward Smyrna. Cara-Elez-Oglu then pof-
feffed that high dignity. He was famous as an excellent gover-
nor, and remarkable for his civility to the Franks or Europeans.
We continued our journey to Zillé, which is by computation
four hours from Goomulderú, where we lay. We arrived.
in fix.
We were apprized of our approach to Zillé or Claros. by vef-
tiges of antient fepulchres on the mountain-fide, clofe by the
way, on our left hand. One, which was hewn in the rock,
has a narrow door-way leading into it; and within, a long hori-
zontal niche or cavity, tranfverfe, for the body. Farther on,
and higher up, is a well of fine water; then full to the brim, and
overflowing. This ridge is feparated by a narrow vale from a
ſmall rocky promontory, which is encompaffed with a ruinous
wall, of rough ftone, the mafonry that termed Pfeudifodomum.
We rode in at a gap or gate-way, and found a theatre of the
fame brown material as the wall, many pieces of marble, wells,
and remnants of churches; and befides thefſe, an imperfect
time-eaten heap of a large temple. We had a diftinct view of
Aiafalúck, the plain of Epheſus, and the town of Scala Nova.
CLAROS was very early the feat of a temple and oracle of
Apollo. It is related, that Chalchas, after the deftruction of
Troy, had an interview there with the prophet Mopfùs, and
died of grief on finding he was excelled in his profeffion. The
perſon, who ſuſtained this high office, could be taken only from
particular families, and was generally of Miletus, unlettered,
and ignorant of compofition. He was told the number and
names of the confulters; and then deſcended into a cave, in
which
>
1
1
>
!
TRAVELS IN
107.1
ASIA MINOR.
you
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}
which was a fiffure with water. He drank of this ſpring, and
then uttered reſponſes in verſes made on the ſubject, on which
each had thought in his own mind; but this practice was preju-
dicial to his health, perhaps from the dampneſs of the place,
and he was commonly fhort-lived. He got by rote, I conceive,
or elfe carried down with him, the anſwers ready prepared; and
the god would foon have loft his reputation, had the confulters
been fo cunning as to have kept each his fecret from the agents
and ſpies employed to dive into their buſineſs.
The temple,
which was unfiniſhed, with the facred grove of aſh-trees, is
mentioned by a writer of the ſecond century among the curiofi-
ties peculiar to Ionia. It is not certain, whether the oracle
exifted after Conftantine the Great; or, when Apollo was finally
filenced and dethroned; but chriftianity fucceeded, and has
flouriſhed in its turn at Claros.
IN viewing the well on the ridge, I remarked it had marble
ſteps leading down from the top; and four or five were vifible
below the ſurface. The water, which, as a peafant with me
affirmed, is very deep, obſcured the remainder. There, it may
be conjectured, was the prophetic fountain and cave. The paf-
fage, by which the wafte current was conveyed away, has been
choked from neglect or by defign; and the water, being con-
fined, has filled the hollow of the rock, and the entrance to it,
rifing until it had liberty to eſcape over the margin. The fuper-
ftitious ufe ceaſed with the reverence for Apollo; men unhal-
lowed drinking of it without feeling inſpiration or dreading pu-
niſhment: and, perhaps, to promote a popular oblivion of the
place, the enemies of the god, who deſtroyed his temple and
grove, deviſed the preſent alteration, by the eafy and obvious
method of converting the cave into a refervoir.
1
COLOPHON was fituated inland. Before it, befides Claros,
was Notium, a town and haven bearing the fame relation to it,
as the Piræus did to Athens, and diftant near two miles. It is
O 2
termed
108 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
termed the Colophonian Notium, to diſtinguiſh it from that of
Chios, a portion of the coaft of the ifland, with a road for
veffels. Colophon was only feventy ftadia or eight milés and
three quarters from Epheſus in a ftrait courfe; but by the wind-
ings of the bays, one hundred and twenty or fifteen. Lyfima-
chus deftroyed it, to enlarge that city; but fome of the Cola-
phonians remained at Notium, to whom the Romans granted
immunities after their war with Antiochus. The Halys or Hav
lefus ran by Colophon; and then, not far from the grové of
Claros. The ftream was colder than any in Ionia, and cele-
brated for that quality by the Elegiac poets. Going out of £o-
lophon, on the left of the road, after you had paffed the river
Calaon', was ſhown in the ſecond century a barrow of André»
mon, one of the leaders in the Ionic migration; and on the
fame fide of the road in the way to Claros was a barrow DE
the Smyrnéans and Colophonians, who fell fighting with the
Macedonians under Lyfimachus.
3
MANY difficulties have arifen concerning Claros, Notium,
and Colophon², which are removed by this account of their
proximity and mutual connection. Colophon was facrificed to
the grandeur of its neighbour Ephefos. The name, as at Le-
bedus, furvived, but without its priftine importance; and No-
tium fuffered, as it were, by fympathy. Religion and Apollo
interpofed to refcue Claros, and the concourfe of confulters and
devotees maintained it and the temple. But now Colophon, if
its fite be not occupied by the wretched huts we have men-
tioned, is extin&t; and Claros, with Notium, has been long
abandoned. The brook we croffed was 'the Halys. The vale
on the north-fide of the promontory, which it divides, 'has per
haps increaſed toward the fea, and the old haven been filled up
by foil waſhed from the mountains.
› Perhaps a rivulet running into the Halys, on the road to Smyrna,
a See Cellarius.
}
WHEN
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
S'IN
tog
+
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Ł
› WHen we had finished our farvey of Claros, we returned to
fone huts, and pitching our tent, lay furrounded with our bag-
gage, men, and horfes. In the morning early we paffed by
Zillé, and over two ridges of Gallefus. We then entered on
the plain of Ephefus, and travelled along the edge toward the
fhore, until we came to the mouth of a lake, at which was a
weir of reeds, and a bridge of three arches, but of one more
than half was broken away. My companions, with our men,
croffed below it by the fea, but feeing the water deep, I dif-
mounted and walked over. The lake is long, and extended
clofe by us on our left almoſt to the river Cayfter, near which
we turned up from the beach. We difoovered foon after a fish-
erman's hut between the lake and the river. We were ferried
over the latter in a triangular float; and in three hours arrived
at Ephelus. We pitched our tent among the ruins, which are
at a distance from Aiafaluck.
We had been here before, and ſhall now give an account of
that journey.
CHAP. XXXII.
Distance of Ephesus from Smyrna · To Sedicui ---To the fources of
a river To Tourbali Of the Turcomans Their booths
To the Cayfter --- Arrive at Aiafalúck--- Relation of a journey
·∙in 1705.
{
THE two cities Ephefus and Smyrna have been termed the
eyes of Afia Minor. They were diftant from each other three
hundred and twenty ftadia or forty miles in a ftrait line. On
the road, one hundred and twenty from Ephefus, was a town
called 'Metropolis. Aiafalúck is now reckoned thirteen or four-
teen hours from Smyrna.
WE
*
*
An
110
ASIA MINOR.
TRAVELS IN ASIA
We left the conful's houſe on Sunday the laft day of Septem-
ber, in the evening, and paffing the river Meles, rode with the
caſtle-hill of Smyrna on our right hand to a gap in the wall of
the pomoerium. We croffed the bed of a torrent, and foon ar-
rived at Sedicui, a fmall but pleaſant village, a few miles diftant.
We paffed the night at a houſe, which Mr. Lee, who had ac-
companied us, rented of a Turk; the afylum, where after-
wards we had refuge from the plague and Smyrna.
We were on horſeback again at five in the morning, before
day-break, going fouthward. A ſtring of camels was in motion at
the fame time, the foremoſt with a bell faſtened about his neck
and tinkling. The dawn foon after began to diſcloſe the blue
tops of the mountains, and the fun rifing coloured the fky with
a rich variety of tints. The air was foft and fragrant. We
paffed by an ordinary bridge or two over water-courſes, then
dry; and through a wet bottom and a heath covered with pines,
wild thyme, and many large thickets of myrtle in flower. On the
flopes of the mountains were ſeveral villages. We difmounted
about eight at a coffee-ſhed ſtanding by the fide of the road near
a hut, called Olalanazzi. One of the rivers, which we croſſed
in travelling along the coaft, rifes there from four heads.
The
ftreams foon unite in a clear brook, and wind in the fhade over
a clean gravelly bed, with gentle caſcades and a pleaſing mur-
In it were many ſmall fiſhes and tortoiſes. Each fource
is enveloped with buſhes of myrtle intermixed with plane-trees;
and the hut is between two, which are about fifty yards afunder.
The agreeable freſhneſs and verdure produced by theſe lively
currents afford a moft grateful relief to the thirſty fun-burnt tra-
veller. That the antient Ionians were not infenfible to the
charms of the ſpot may be inferred from the veftiges of build-
ings near it, and from the remnants of marble.
mur.
AFTER drinking coffee we went on, and entering a hollow
way ſhaded with pines, came in view of a ruined caravanſérá or
building
TRAVELS IN III
*
ASIA MINOR.
'
building for the reception of travellers, near an extenfive plain.
Here a ftream defcends through a pleaſant vale, in which are
fome ſcattered cottages, named Terrenda, with a mill, by which
we dined on a green plat, when we returned. Among the low
buſhes, on a gentle rifing cloſe by, are fome marble fragments;
and, ſearching about, we found by the road an inſcription,
which has belonged to an heroum or fepulchre. It was well
cut on a fquare ftone, and perhaps near the fite of the edifice..
At ten we paffed by Hortená, a ſtraggling village. On the left
hand is a ſmall Turkiſh burying-ground by a fountain, and vef-
tiges of building. We arrived an hour after at Tourbali, where
we dined by a well near the khan under a ſpreading tree, and
were much incommoded by duft and wind. The roof of the
ſtable was ſupported by broken columns, and in the wall was a
piece of doric frieze, with fome fragments removed, it is likely,
from the ruins of Metropolis.
WE were told here, that the road farther on was befet with
Turcomans. Thefe, as is fuppofed, are the defcendants of the
Nomades Scythæ or Shepherd Scythians; and are bufied, as of
old, in breeding and nurturing cattle; leading, as then, an un-
fettled life, not forming villages and towns with ſtable habita-
tions, but fitting from place to place as the ſeaſon and their
convenience directs; chufing their ſtations, and overfpreading
without controul the vaſt neglected paftures of this defert em-
pire. They were early a nuifance to the Greeks, and in a
treaty with one of the Sultans, the emperor requires him to pu-
niſh as many of them as were his ſubjects, and had trefpaffed on
their territories. They are there faid to live by theft and rob-
bery, an article in which likewife the uniformity of character-
has been preſerved. They vary in favageneſs and violence, as
the reſpective clans happen to be more or less humanized by ſo-
cial intercourſe and attention to civil life.
THE aga of Tourbali and our Armenians, would have per-
fuaded us to ſtay until the next morning, but as it was not yet
noon
112
IN ASIA MINOR.
TRAVELS
noon, we refolved to go on. The aga appointed a Turk to ac
company us as a guide and ſafe-guard, afferting that he was re-
ſponſible to Elez-Oglu, if any ſtranger fuffered from the Tur
comans on that road. We fet out, and had on our right De
peċui, a village, in which we could difcern a large, fquare,
ruinous edifice, with ſpaces for windows. We then came to a
wild country covered with thickets, and with the black booths
of theſe wanderers, ſpreading on every fide, innumerable, with
flocks, and herds, and horſes, and poultry feeding round them,
We croffed an extenfive level plain, overrun with bushes, but
miffed Metropolis, of which, it has been related', ſome veſtiges
remain; our guide leading us to the left of the direct road from
Smyrna to Ephefus.
ABOUT three o'clock we approached a valley, which divides
two lofty mountains. The extremity of Gallefus or the Alemán,
which was on our right, is covered with trees, rifing beautifully
in regular gradation up the flope. The other, oppofite to it,
is quite bare and naked. We now perceived four men riding
briſkly toward us, abreaſt, well mounted and armed. Our Ja-
nizary and Armenians halted, as they paffed, and faced about
until they were gone beyond our baggage. We came foon after
to a fountain, and a coffee-hut, above which, on the mountain-
fide, is Oſebanár, a Turkiſh village. We then diſcovered on our
left a ruined bridge, and the river Cayfter, which met us again
at four, the water ſtill and apparently ftagnant, the banks fteep.
A caſtle, viſible afar off, ftands on a ſummit of Gallefus.
+
We turned westward at the end of the opening between the
mountains, and had on our left a valley, bounded by a moun-
tain called antiently Pactyas. The road lay at the foot of Gal-
lefus, beneath precipices of a ſtupendous height, abrupt and in-
acceffible. In the rock are many holes inhabited by eagles; of
which ſeveral were foaring high in the air, with crows clamour-
¹ See Wheler and Chihull.
ing
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
113
ing about them ſo far above us, as hardly to be difcernible. By
the way was a well and part of a marble farcophagus, on
which were carved heads and feftoons. The Cayfter, which
had been concealed in the valley, now appeared again; and we
had in view before us the round hill and ftately caftle of Aiafa-
lúck, very ſeaſonably for man and horſe, both jaded with heat
and wanting reft. Mount Payas here retires with a circular
fweep, while Gallefus preferves its direction to the fea, which is
the weſtern boundary of the plain. This has been computed
five miles long. The Cayfter met us near the entrance on it;
and we paſſed over an ordinary bridge, a little below which are
pieces of veined marble, poliſhed, the remnants of a ſtructure
more worthy Ephefus. The ftream was fhallow, but formed a
baſin croſſed by a weir of reeds. We purchaſed ſome live mul-
let of the fiſherman, who was there. A narrow track winding
through rubbiſh and loofe ftones round the caſtle-hill brought us
in about half an hour more to Aiafalúck.
I SHALL infert here an account of a journey to Aiafalúck in
1705, from an imperfect diary', found among Chiſhull's papers,
written in Latin by Dr. Antony Picenini, a Grifon, who hap-
pening to be then at Smyrna, joined in company with conful
Sherard, and other gentlemen of the Engliſh nation. They
fet out on the fourteenth of Auguft, at four in the after-
noon, and paffing through the plain of Bujaw, came about five
to a little hill and a rivulet then dry; and after riding about three
hours pitched their tents by a ſmall village, called Sinofocheli.
They ſet out again the next morning before fix, through an un-
cultivated plain; and after two hours croffed a narrow but deep
ſtream, which he calls Halefus; going on in this plain, the
road good, they obferved in leſs than two hours, fome veftiges
of an Aquæduct reaching toward a village on their left; where
In the poffeffion of John Loveday, Efq; of Caverſham near Reading.
The other gentlemen were the Rev. John Tiffer, chaplain to the Engliſh Fac
tory; and Cutts Lockwood, and John Lethieullier, two capital merchants, of
great ſpirit and generofity.
P
alfo
'
114
TRAVELS
IN ASIA
MINOR.
alſo were ruins on a hill. A wide paved way led through culți-
vated fields to the mountain-foot, toward the left, where they
halted to reſt about noon in a wood. They had feen fragments
of columns and other remains of Metropolis. They proceeded
at three, and ſoon had the Cayſter on their left, and the caſtle
on the precipice in view. This was then called Kezel-hiffar,
The Caftle of the Goats, perhaps as fcarcely acceffible but to
thoſe animals. They turned, as we did, weftward; and at fix
arrived at Aiafalúck in thirteen hours from Smyrna.
CHA P. XXXIII.
Aiafalúck-The evening
The evening — Remains The caftle―The moſque
The aquæduct — An antient bridge.
----
AIASALUCK is a ſmall village, inhabited by a few Turkiſh
families, ſtanding chiefly on the fouth-fide of the caſtle-hill,
among buſhes and ruins. It was dufk when we alighted, la-
menting the filence and complete humiliation, as we conceived,
of Ephefus. The Caravanferá, to which we had been directed,
was exceedingly mean and wretched. A marble farcophagus,
freed from the human duft, ferved as a water-trough to a'
well before it. From the infcription, which has been pub-
liſhed', we learn that it once contained the bodies of a captain
of a Roman trireme, named the Griffin, and his wife. Clofe
by, fome tall camels, juſt arrived, ſtood penfive; or, with their
knees tied to prevent their rifing from the ground, mildly waited
the removal of their burthens.
THE Caravanferâ being full, we were diftreffed for a place to
lodge in, but after fome time a Turk offered us a fhed by his
cottage. The roof and fides were black with ſmoke, and fome
martens had made their nefts againſt the rafters. Our horfes
* See Heffelius.
were
که خستم
- M
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 115
on;
$
were difpofed among the walls and rubbiſh, with their faddles
and a mat was ſpread for us on the ground. We fate here,
in the open air, while fupper was preparing; when fuddenly,
fires began to blaze up among the bushes, and we faw the vil-
lagers collected about them in favage groups, or paffing to and
fro with lighted brands for torches. The flames, with the ſtars
and a pale moon, afforded us a dim proſpect of ruin and defola-
tion. A fhrill owl, named Cucuvaia from its note, with a
night-hawk, flitted near us; and a jackall cryed mournfully, as
if forſaken by his companions, on the mountain.
}
We retired early in the evening to our ſhed, not without fome
fenfations of melancholy, which were renewed at the dawn of
day. We had then a diſtinct view of a folemn and moſt forlorn
ſpot; a neglected caftle, a grand moſque, and a broken aquæ-
duct, with mean cottages, and ruinous buildings interſperſed
among wild thickets, and ſpreading to a confiderable extent.
Many of the ſcattered ſtructures are fquare, with domes, and
have been baths. Some grave-ftones occurred, finely painted
and gilded, and fairly emboffed, as the Turkish manner is, with
characters in relievo. But the caſtle,
But the caſtle, the mofque, and the
aquæduct, are alone fufficient evidences, as well of the former
greatneſs of the place, as of its importance.
THE caſtle is a large and barbarous edifice, the wall built
with fquare towers. You aſcend to it over heaps of ftones in-
termixed with ſcraps of marble. An out-work, which ſecured
the approach, confifted of two lateral walls from the body of
the fortress, with a gate-way. This is fupported on each ſide
by a huge and awkward buttreſs, conftructed chiefly with the
feats of a theatre or ſtadium, many marked with Greek letters.
Several fragments of infcriptions' are inferted in it, or lie near.
Over the arch are four pieces of antient ſculpture. Two in the
middle are in alto relievo, of moſt exquifite workmanſhip, and
I See Heffelius.
P 2
parts
A
116
TRAVELS IN
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
parts of the fame defign; reprefenting the death of Patrocles,
and the bringing of his body to Achilles. A third is in baffo re-
lievo. The figures on it are a man leading away a little boy, a
corpfe extended, two women lamenting, and foldiers bearing
forth the armour and weapons of the deceafed, to decorate his
funeral pile. This, if it be not the fequel of that tranfaction,
may be referred to the ſtory of Hector. The fourth is carved
with boys and vine-branches, much injured. The gate-way
faces the fea. Within the caftle are a few huts, an old mofque,
and a great deal of rubbish. If you move a ſtone here, it is a
chance but you find a ſcorpion under it.
THE grand mofque is fituated beneath the caſtle, weftward.
The fide next the foot of the hill is of ftone; the remainder, of
veined marble poliſhed. The two domes are covered with lead,
and each is adorned with the Mahometan crefcent. In front
is a court, in which was a large fountain to fupply the devout
muffulman with water, for the purifications required by his
law. The broken columns are remains of a portico. The three
entrances of a court, the door-ways of the mofque, and many
of the window-cafes have mouldings in the Saracenic ſtile, with
fentences, as we fuppofed, from the Koran in Arabic characters
handſomely cut. The windows have wooden frames, and are
latticed with wire. The infide is mean, except the kiblé or
portion toward Mecca, which is ornamented with carving,
painting, and gilding. The minaret is fallen. We found a long
Greek inſcription' nearly effaced, in the wall of the fide next to
Gallefus. The fabric was raiſed with old materials. The large
granate columns, which fuftain the roof, and the marbles, are
fpoils from antient Ephefus.
THE aquæduct, on the oppofite fide of the caftle-hill, reaches
from the foot quite across the plain, eaſtward to mount Pactyas.
The piers are ſquare and tall, and many in number, with arches
¹ Pocock Infc. p. 19. n. 15.
of
}
F
1
1
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
१०
117
of brick. They are conſtructed chiefly with inſcribed pedeſtals ;`
on one of which is the name of Atticus Herodes, whofe ftatue it
has fupported. We copied or collated ſeveral, but found none
which have not been publiſhed. The minute diligence of ear-
her collectors had been extended to the unimportant fragments,
and even fingle words within reach, from the first to the forty
fifth pier. The marbles yet untouched would furniſh a copious
and curious harveſt, if acceffible. The downfall of fome may
be expected continually, from the tottering condition of the fa-
bric; and time and earthquakes will fupply the want of ladders,
for which the traveller wishes in vain at a place, where, if a tall
man, he may almost overlook the houses. It has been furmifed,
that the water, which was conveyed in earthen pipes to the
aquæduct, came from a famous fpring named Halitea. That
now is intercepted, no moiſture trickling from the extremity of
the duct on the mountain. The ruin abounds in fnakes. We
Wẹ
faw a very long one twisting between the ftones, which are not
accurately joined; and the peaſants with us attacked and killed
it. We likewife difturbed fome camelions and lizards, which
were basking in the fun. We were in danger near the village
from large fierce dogs, which the boys encouraged to worry and
to attack us,
In the way from Ajafalúck to Guzel-hiffar or Magnefia by the
Maander, about four or five miles diftant, is a narrow woody
valley with a ſtream, over which is an antient bridge of three
arches. Two long lines, one in Latin, the other in Greek, are
infcribed on it, and inform us, it was dedicated to the Ephefian
Diana, the emperor Cæfar Auguftus, Tiberius Cæfar his fon,
and to the people of Ephefus: and alfo that Pollio, a Roman,
erected it at his own expenfe. This fabric has been deformed
by a ſubſequent addition; the three arches now ſuſtaining fix,
intended to convey a current of water acroſs the valley, probably
to the aquæduct of Aiafalýck.
CHA P.
118 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
CHA P. XXXIV.
1
Aiafalúck not Ephefus
Tamerlane at Aiafalúck --
Hiftory of the
two places confounded
A flood.
Origin of Aiafalúck --- Thunder-ſtorm
+
AIASALUCK has had an affinity with Epheſus fimilar to
that of Sevri-hiffar with Teos. We found no theatre, nor ſta-
dium, nor temple. The whole was patch-work, compofed of
marbles and fragments removed from their original places, and
put together without elegance or order. We were convinced that
we had not arrived yet at Ephefus, before we diſcovered the
ruins of that city, which are by the mountains at a diſtance,
nearer the fea and vifible from the caſtle-hill.
A CHANGE in the names of places, with the new ſettle-
ments which had been eſtabliſhed under the Turks, renders it
difficult to follow Tamerlane in his marches through Afia Mi-
nor; but from Guzel-hiffar or Magnefia by the Mæander he
came to Aiazlik or Aiafalúck. There alſo he encamped after
fubduing Smyrna in 1402. The events recorded of Ephefus
pofterior to this date belong, it ſeems, to Aiafalúck and its
citadel or caſtle.
Two years after the invafion by Tamerlane, Cineis, it is
related, took Epheſus from Amir, Sultan of Smyrna, who re-
tired to Mantakhia his uncle, prince of Caria. Amir, return-
ing with fix thouſand men, befieged and fet fire to the town.
The father of Cineis, who commanded there with three thou-
fand men, maintained the citadel while he had hopes of fuccour.
Cineis again attacked Epheſus, and drove Amir in his turn into
the citadel. Theſe chieftains were reconciled, and Cineis by
the death of Amir became a fovereign. Sultan Soliman advanced
againſt
!
Z
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
119
againſt him with a large army from Pruſa, and came by Meni-
men and Smyrna to Mefaulion, where he intrenched. Cineis
had prevailed on the princes of Kotiéum and Iconium to join
him at Ephefus, and the two armies were only fix leagues
afunder ; when apprehending treachery in his allies, he gal-
lopped to the citadel, exhorted his brother not to give it up before
the following day, and at night repaired to the camp of Soli-
man. The two princes, finding him gone, retreated with their
forces at fun-rife, fording the river on one fide, while Soliman
croffed it over a bridge by mount Gallefus, and entered Epheſus,
near which he lay encamped for four months. Cineis afterwards
recovered Epheſus. The Citadel is here diſtinguiſhed ſo plainly,
that a perſon who has feen the places will fcarcely hefitate to
pronounce that the Ephefus of Cineis was the Aiafalúck of
Tamerlane.
AIASA LUCK has certainly flouriſhed chiefly, if not ſolely,
under the Mahometans. Its origin may with probability be re-
ferred to the thirteenth century. It is related, that Mantakhia
before mentioned fubdued Ephefus with Caria in 1313. He
perhaps fortified this rock for a ſtrong-hold, and the town grew
under its protection. The mofque and aquæduct as well as the
caſtle, are great though inelegant ftructures. They ſuggeſt the
idea, that the place has been honoured with the refidence of
princes, and it is likely, were erected under him and his nephew
Amir. The marble materials of antient Ephefus, then in ruins,
were amaſſed for theſe buildings, which have contributed largely
to the prefent nakedneſs of its fite.
ON the ſecond evening of our ſtay at Aiaſalúck heavy clouds
began to arrive apace, with a foutherly wind, and to fettle upon
the mountains round us; when all became black and gloomy.
At night frequent flaſhes of pale lightening, each making a
momentary day, gleamed into the plain; while awful thunder,
prolonged by repeated reverberations, moved folemnly along
upon the fummits. The explofions were near, and loud, and-
dread-
1
120
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
dreadful, far beyond any I ever heard before. Well might the
devout heathen, unſkilled in natural caufes, aſcribe to a prefent
deity fo grand an operation; and while the tremendous God.
drove, as he conceived, his terrible chariot through the darkneſs,
tremble at the immenſe diſplay of his power and be filled with
appréhenſion of his wrath.
THE rain, pouring down violently in large drops, foon
made its way through our flender fhed, and fell plentifully on
us and our bedding, tinged with foot and dirt. Our horfes
were without fhelter, and our men in an inftant wet to the
fkin. It held up again about ten in the morning, and we
croffed the plain to the ruins of Ephefus, but foon after the
thunder and rain re-commenced, and forced us to return. In the
afternoon the plain was deluged with water from the mountains,
running down like a torrent, and rendering it in many places
impaffable. The Aga of Aiafalúck being abfent, we vifited his
deputy, our men carrying, as ufual, fome coffee and ſmall loaves
of fugar as a preſent. He received us very graciouſly, fitting crofs-
legged on the roof of an old bath, which was his habitation.
Epbefus·
gymnafium
tower
CHA P. XXXV.
---
The ſtadium --- The theatre ---The odeum, &c - The
A Street Another A temple
Square
Extent of the city --- Avenues Prion a mountain of
marble A place of burial The quarries &c.
EPHESUS was fituated by the mountains, Which are the
ſouthern boundary of the plain, and comprehended within its
wall a portion of 'mount Prion and of Cöriffts. Mount Prion is
a circular hill reſembling that of Aiafalúck, 'but 'much larger.
Coriflus is a finglé lofty ridge, extending northward from near
mount
•
!
sent
}
$
t
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
121
mount Pactyas and approaching Prion, then making an elbow
and running weftwardly toward the fea. This city as well as
Smyrna was built by Lyfimachus, who alfo enrolled its ſenate,
and provided for its civil government.
WE entered Epheſus from Aiafalúck with mount Prion and
the exterior lateral wall of a ſtadium, which fronted the fea, on
our left hand. Going on and turning, we paffed that wing of
the building, and the area opened to us. We meaſured it with
a tape, and found it fix hundred eighty ſeven feet long. The
fide next the plain was raiſed on vaults, and faced with the
ftrong wall before mentioned, The oppofite fide, which over-
looks it, and the upper end, both reſted on the ſlope of the hill.
The feats, which ranged in numerous rows one above another,
have all been removed; and of the front only a few marbles
remain, with an arch' which terminates the left wing and was
one of the avenues provided for the fpectators. Upon the key-
ftone of the back front is a ſmall mutilated figure. This part of
the fabric was reſtored or repaired when the city had declined in
fplendor and was partly ruinous; for it is compofed of marbles,
which have belonged to other buildings. A baſs-relief, rudely
carved, is inferted in it; with, befides fragments, fome Infcrip-
tions now effaced, or too high up to be read.
+
THE preaching of St Paul produced a tumult at Ephefus,
the people ruſhing into the Theatre, and ſhouting "Great is
"Diana." The veftiges of this ftructure, which was very capa-
cious, are farther on in the fide of the fame mountain. The
ſeats and the ruins of the profcenium or front are removed. In
both wings are feveral architectural fragments; and, prying
about the fide next to the ſtadium, we diſcovered an infcription
over an arch, once one of the avenues, and cloſed up perhaps to
ſtrengthen the fabric. It bids the reader, if he approached
not the feſtive ſcene, ftill be pleaſed with the atchievements of
I See a view of this arch in Le Brun, p. 31.
е
the
1
122 TRAVELS IN
ASIA
ASIA MINOR.
the architect who had faved the vaſt circle of the theatre; all-
conquering time having yielded to the fuccour he had contrived.
It is of a low age, as may be inferred from the form of the
characters. The early advocates for chriſtianity inveighed againft
the faſhionable diverfions, but the public reliſh for the ſtage, for
the athletic exerciſes, races and fpectacles was inveterate; and
the theatre, the ſtadium, and the like places of refort con-
tinued to be frequented long after them, even at Epheſus.
t
GOING on from the theatre, which had a ftoa or portico
annexed to it, as may be collected from the pedeftals and bafes of
columns ranging along on this fide, concealed partly in the
ground, you come to a narrow valley, which divides mount
Prion from Coriffus. Near the entrance, in a ſmall water-courſe,
was a marble with an infcription, which I copied; and we could
diſcern a few letters on another ſtone overwhelmed with rub-
biſh. Cloſe by were ruins of a church, and a ftone carved with
the Greek crofs. Within the valley, you find broken columns
and pieces of marble, with veftiges of an Odéum or mufic-
theatre in the flope of Prion. This, which was not a large
ftructure, is ftripped of the feats and naked. Near it are fome
piers with ſmall arches, each of a fingle ftone, almoſt buried in
foil. It is a precept of Vitruvius that the Odéum be on the left
hand coming from the theatre.
BEYOND the Odéum the valley opens gradually into the
plain of Aiafalúck; and, keeping round by Prion, you come to
the remains of a large edifice reſembling that with an arcade at
Troas. The top of one of the niches is painted with waves and
fiſhes, and among the fragments lying in the front are two
trunks of ftatues, of great fize, without heads and almoſt buried;
the drapery, which is in both the fame, remarkable. This
huge building was the Gymnafium, which is mentioned as
behind the city. We pitched our tent among its ruins, when
we arrived from Claros, and were employed on it three days in
taking a plan and view. We had then a letter of recommendation
from
}
1
ASIA. MINOR.
123
TRAVELS IN
from a Turkiſh officer at Smyrna to the Aga of Aiaſalúck, but
did not go thither. He fent to require bac-ſhiſh, and was eafily
gratified. We found the area of the ftadium green with
corn, and the fite in general overrun with fennel in feed, the
ftalks ftrong and tall. Some traces, which, in the autumn be-
fore had been plain, were not diſcerniblė.
WE return now to the entrance of the city from Aiaſalúck.
That ſtreet was nearly of the length of the ftadium, which
ranged along one fide. The oppofite fide was compoſed of edifices
equally ample and noble; with a colonnade, as we conjectured
from the many pedeſtals and bafes of columns ſcattered there.
Theſe fabrics were all raiſed high above the level of the plain,
and have their vaulted fubftructions yet entire.
THIS ftreet was croffed by one leading from the plain to-
ward the valley before mentioned, which had on the left the
front of the ftadium and the theatre with the ftoa or portico
adjoining. On the right are ample fubftructions; and, oppofite
to the ſtadium, lies a bafin of white marble ftreaked with red,
about fifteen feet in diameter, once belonging to a fountain;
with ſome ſhafts of ſmall pillars near it almoſt buried in earth.
The ruins on this fide are pieces of maffive wall, which have
been incruſted, as appears from holes bored for affixing the
marble; and ordinary arches, of brick, among which are frag-
ments of columns of red granate. Theſe remains reach as far as
the portico, and have behind them a morafs, once the city-port.
By the higheſt of them is the entrance of a fouterrain, which
extends underneath; theſe buildings having been erected on a
low and marſhy ſpot. Oppofite to the portico is a vacant qua-
drangular ſpace with many bafes of columns and marble frag-
ments ſcattered along the edges. Here, it is probable, was the
agora or market-place, which in maritime towns was generally
near the port; in inland, near the centre; and commonly built
**
¹ Perhaps to Calippia, which was in the city. Pliny,
Q 2
with
124
TRAVELS IN ASIA
ASIA MINOR.
with colonnades. The other remains are perhaps of the arſenals;
and of the public treaſury, the priſon, and the like buildings,
which in the Greek cities were uſually placed by the agora.
1
WE are now at the end of the ſtreet, and near the entrance
of the valley between Prion and Coriffus. Here turning toward
the fea, you have the Agora on the right hand; on the left,
the floping fide of Coriffus, and preſently the proſtrate heap of
a temple, which fronted 22™ eaſt of north. The length was
about one hundred and thirty feet, the breadth eighty. The
cell or nave was conftructed with large coarſe ftones. The por-
tico was marble, of the corinthian order. This was a temple in
Antis or of the Euſtyle ſpecies, and had four columns between
the antæ. Their diameter is four feet and about fix inches;
their length thirty nine feet two inches, but including the baſe
and capital forty fix feet and more than ſeven inches. The ſhafts
were fluted, and, though their dimenfions are ſo great, each of one
ſtone. The moft entire of them is broken into two pieces. On
the frieze was carved a bold foliage with boys. The ornaments
in general are extremely rich, but much injured. This perhaps
was the temple erected at Epheſus by permiffion of Auguftus
Cæfar to the God Julius, or that dedicated to Claudius Cæfar on
his Apotheofis.
ABOUT a mile farther on is a root of Coriffus running out
toward the plain and ending in an abrupt precipice, which has a
fquare tower, one of many belonging to the city-wall, ftanding
on it. We rode to it along the mountain-fide, but that way is
ſteep and flippery. Near it are remnants of a fumptuous edifice,
and
among the buſhes beneath we found an altar of white mar-
ble. This eminence commands a lovely profpect of the river
Cayfter, which there croffes the plain from near Gallefus, with
a ſmall but full ftream, and with many luxuriant meanders.
THE extent of the city toward the plain, on which fide it was
waſhed by the Cayfter, cannot now be aſcertained; but the
moun-
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 125
mountainous region has preferved its boundary, the wall erected
by Lyfimachus, which is of the maſonry termed Ifodomum, and
may be traced from behind the ſtadium over mount Prion, ſtanding
often above twenty feet high. It croffed the valley in which is
a piece, with ruined piers of a gate-way, the ftones regularly
placed, large, rough, and hard. From thence it afcended mount
Coriffus, and is feen ranging along the lofty brow, almoſt entire,
except near the precipice, where it ceafes. On mount Prion,
which I rambled quite over, are likewiſe remnants of an exterior
wall. This, from its direction, feems to have defcended, and
incloſed the Gymnafium, which was without the city; forming
a pomoerium by uniting with the wall on Coriffus, which begins
from a precipice beyond the valley.
THE avenues of the antient cities were commonly beſet with
fepulchres. The vaults of theſe edifices, ftripped of their marble,
occur near the entrance of Ephefus from Aiafalúck, where was
once a gate; and again by the Gymnafium both on Prion and
Coriffus; on each fide of the approach to the gate in the valley :
and alfo about the abrupt precipice, without the city-wall. The
vaults along the flope of Coriffus, in the way thither, ſhow that
the Ephefians buried likewiſe within the city; and it is recorded,
that a Sophift, a Mileſian, was interred in the agora, in the princi-
pal part of Epheſus, where he had lived. The gate next the ſea
was that by the precipice, from which, going on at the bottom,
you come to a gap in mount Coriffus, cut, it is likely, to open
a commodious way to Neapolis, now Scala Nova, and to the
places on the coaft. The gate toward Smyrna was probably in
the plain; for the antient road was over Gallefus.
MOUNT Prion is among the curiofities of Ionia enume-
rated by Paufanias. It has ferved as an inexhauſtible magazine
of marble, and contributed largely to the magnificence of the
city. The Ephefians, it is related, when they firft reſolved to
provide an edifice worthy of their Diana, were met to agree on
importing materials. The quarries then in ufe were remote, and
the
મ
126
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
the expenſe, it was forefeen, would be prodigious. At this time,
a fhepherd happened to be feeding his flock on mount Prion,
and two rams fighting, one of them miffed his antagoniſt, and,
ſtriking the rock with his horn, broke off a cruft of very white
marble. He ran into the city with this fpecimen, which was
received with excefs of joy. He was highly honoured for his
accidental diſcovery, and finally canonized; the Ephefians
changing his name from Pixodorus to Evangelus, The good mef-
ſenger, and enjoining their chief magiſtrate, under a penalty, to
viſit the ſpot, and to facrifice to him monthly, which cuſtom
continued in the age of Auguftus Cæfar.
THE author above cited mentions Prion as a mountain of a
remarkable nature. He meant perhaps fome property of preferv-
ing the dead, of which it has been a principal repofitory. In
the records of our religion it is ennobled as the burying-place
of St Timothy, the companion of St Paul and the firft bifhop
of Epheſus, whofe body was afterwards tranflated to Conftanti-
nople by the founder of that city or his fon Conftantius, and
placed with St Luke and St Andrew in the church of the
Apoſtles. The story of St John the Evangelift was deformed
in an early age with grofs fiction; but he alfo was interred at
Ephefus, and, as appears from one narration, in this mountain.
IN the fide of Prion, not far from the Gymnafium, are ca-
vities with mouths, like ovens, made to admit the bodies,
which were thruſt in, head or feet foremoſt. One has an in-
ſcription on the plane of the rock, beginning, as ufual, This is
the monument &c. Then follows, farther on, a wide aperture or
two, which are avenues to the quarries, of a romantic appear-
ance, with hanging precipices; and in one is the ruin of a church,
of brick, the roof arched, the cieling plaſter or ſtucco painted
in ſtreaks correſponding with the mouldings. Many names of
perfons and ſentences are written on the wall in Greek and Ori-
ental characters. This perhaps was the oratory or church of St
John, rebuilt by the emperor Juftinian. It is ftill frequented,
and
{
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 127
and had a path leading to it through tall ſtrong thiftles. Near
it are remnants of brick-buildings, and of fepulchres, with
niches cut, fome horizontally, in the rock. Going on, you
come to the entrance into Ephefus from Aiafalúck. The quar-
ries are in the bowels of the mountain, with numberleſs mazes
and vaft filent dripping caverns. In many parts are chippings of
marble and marks of the tools. I found chippings alſo above by
the mouths, which fupplied marble for the city-wall, and faw
huge pieces lying among the buſhes at the bottom. The look-
ing down the steep and folemn precipice was formidable. A
flock of crows diſturbed at my approach flew out with no ſmall
clamour.
Old Ephefus
CHAP. XXXVI.
The Ionic city
Of Androclus
The city of Ly-
fimachus --- The port
The port --- Modern hiftory of Ephefus
The prefent Ephefians.
3
cline
Its de-
TO complete the local hiſtory of Ephefus, we muſt deduce
it from a period of remote antiquity. It is recorded that Prion
had in former times been called Lepre Acte; and a part behind
Prion was ſtill called the back of Lepre, when Strabo wrote.
The diſtrict named Smyrna was fituated by the Gymnaſium,
behind the city of Lyfimachus, between Lepre or Prion and
Tracheia or the mountain-fide above Coriffus. When the Ioni-
ans arrived, Androclus, their leader, protected the natives,
who had ſettled from devotion about the temple of Diana, and
incorporated them with his followers; but expelled thoſe, who
inhabited the town above.
ANDROCLUS and the Ephefians invaded and got poffeffion of
the iſland Samos. They were then, it is related, debating where
to
、
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
128
to fix their abode. An oracle was confulted, and gave for anſwer,
"A fiſh ſhould ſhow them, and a wild hog conduct them." It
happened ſome fishermen were breakfaſting here on the ſpot,
where afterwards was the fountain called Hypelæus or that
under the olive-tree, near The facred port. One of the fiſh leap-
ing from the fire with a coal fell on fome chaff, which lighting
communicated to a thicket, and the flames diſturbed a wild hog
lying in it. This animal ran over great part of the Tracheia, and
was killed with a javelin, where afterwards was the Atheneum
or temple of Minerva, without the city of Lyfimachus. The
Ionians leaving Samos, erected their city on Tracheia and by
the Atheneum and Hypelæus. They alſo founded a temple of
Diana by their agora or market-place, and of Apollo Pythius
by the port. This was the city which Croeſus befieged, and
the Ephefians preſented for an offering to their goddeſs, annexing
it by a rope to her temple, which was feven ſtadia or a mile,
wanting half a quarter, from it.
ANDROCLUS, affiſting the people of Priene against the Ca-
rians, fell in battle. His body was carried away and buried by
the Ephefians. His monument, on which was a man armed,
was ſhown in the fecond century near the road going from the
temple of Diana by the Olympium toward the Magnefian gate.
His pofterity poffeffed hereditary honours in the time of Tibe-
rius Cæfar. They were titular kings, wore purple, and carried
in their hands a wand or fceptre. They had, moreover, prece-
dence at the games, and a right of admiffion to the Eleufinian
myfteries.
THE temple of Diana, which roſe on the contributions of all
Afia, produced a deſertion of the city of Androclus. The Ephe-
fians came down from the mountain, and ſettled in the plain by
it, where they continued to the time of Alexander. They were
then unwilling to remove into the prefent city, but a heavy rain
falling and Lyfimachus ſtopping the drains, and flooding their
houfes, they were glad to exchange.
THE
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 129
THE port of Epheſus had originally a wide mouth, but foul
with mud, lodged in it from the Cayfter. Attalus Philadelphus
and his architects were of opinion, that, if the entrance were
contracted, it would become deeper, and in time be capable of
receiving ſhips of burthen. But the flime, which had before
been moved by the flux and reflux of the ſea, and carried off,
being ſtopped, the whole bafin quite to the mouth was rendered
ſhallow. The morafs, of which I had a perfect view from the
top of Prion, was this port. It communicates with the Cayfter,
as might be expected, by a narrow mouth; and at the water-edge
by the ferry, as well as in other places, may be ſeen the wall
intended to embank the ftream, and give it force by confine-
ment. The maſonry is of the kind termed Incertum, in which the
ſtones are of various fhapes, but nicely joined. The fituation was
fo advantageous as to overbalance the inconveniences attending
the port. The town increaſed daily, and under the Romans
was accounted the moſt confiderable emporium of Afia within
Taurus.
TOWARD the end of the eleventh century, Epheſus experi-
enced the fame fortune as Smyrna. A Turkiſh pirate, named
Tangripermes, fettled there. But the Greek admiral, John
Ducas, defeated him in a bloody battle, and purſued the flying
Turks up the Mæander to Polybotum. In 1306, it was among
the places which fuffered from the exactions of the grand-duke
Roger; and two years after, it furrendered to Sultan Sayfan,
who, to prevent future infurrections, removed moſt of the in-
habitants to Tyriæum, where they were maffacred. The tranf-
actions in which mention is made of Ephefus after this period,
belong, as has been already obferved, to its neighbour and fuc-
ceffor Aiafalúck.
·
EPHESUS appears to have fubfifted as an inconfiderable place
for fome time. The inhabitants being few, and the wall of
Lyfimachus too extenfive to be defended, or too ruinous to be
repaired,
R
ક્
1
:
1
130
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
repaired, it was found expedient or neceffary to contract their
boundary by erecting an ordinary wall, which defcends from
near the ſtadium on one hand, and on the other from the wall
on mount Prion, toward the morafs or port, not including the
agora. The difficulty of rendering even this ſmall portion tena-
ble, feems to have produced the removal to Aiaſalúck, as a fitua-
tion more ſafe and commodious. A farther motive may be
added, that the port through time and neglect was changed,
and become a nuiſance rather than of public utility..
THE Ephefians are now a few Greek peaſants, living in ex-
treme wretchedneſs, dependance, and infenfibility; the repre-
fentatives of an illuftrious people, and inhabiting the wreck of
their greatneſs; fome, the fubftructions of the glorious edifices
which they raiſed; fome beneath the vaults of the ſtadium,
once the crouded ſcene of their diverfions; and fome, by the
abrupt precipice, in the fepulchres which received their afhes.
We employed a couple of them to pile ftones, to ſerve inſtead of
a ladder, at the arch of the ftadium, and to clear a pedeſtal of
the portico by the theatre from rubbiſh. We had occafion for
another to dig at the Corinthian temple; and ſending to the ſta-
dium, the whole tribe, ten or twelve, followed; one playing
all the way before them on a rude lyre, and at times ftriking the
founding-board with the fingers of his left hand in concert with
the ſtrings. One of them had on a pair of ſandals of goat-ſkin
laced with thongs. After gratifying their curiofity, they re-
turned back as they came, with their muſician in front.
SUCH are the preſent citizens of Ephefus, and fuch is the con-
dition to which that renowned city has been gradually reduced.
It was a ruinous place, when the emperor Juftinian filled Conftan-
tinople with its ſtatues, and raiſed his church of St. Sophia on
its columns. Since then it has been almoſt quite exhauſted. Its
Atreets are obfcured, and overgrown. A herd of goats was
driven to it for fhelter from the fun at noon; and a noify flight
of crows from the quarries feemed to infult. its filence.. Wẹ
heard
We
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 131
heard the partridge call in the area of the theatre and of the
ftadium. The glorious pomp of its heathen worſhip is no
longer remembered; and chriſtianity, which was there nurſed
by apostles, and fostered by general councils, until it increaſed
to fullness of ftature, barely lingers on in an exiſtence hardly
viſible.
है
+
CHA P. XXXVII.
The Selenufian lakes--- A fifbery ---The Cayfter ---Road on Gallefus
New land --- Port Panormus The iſland Syrie.
IN the plain of Epheſus were antiently two lakes, formed
partly by ſtagnant water from the river Selinus, which ran op-
pofite the Artemifium or temple of Diana, probably from
mount Galleſus. The kings had taken from the goddeſs the
revenue arifing from them, which was great; but it was reſtored
by the Romans. The publicans then forced her to pay taxes.
Artemidorus was fent ambaffador to Rome, and pleaded fuccefs-
fully her privilege of exemption, for which and his other fer-
vices the city erected a ftatue of him in gold in the temple. In
a bottom by one of the lakes was a temple, faid to have been
founded by Agamemnon.
4:
THE reader may recollect, that, coming from Claros, we
croffed the mouth of a lake, and afterwards rode along by its
fide. This was the lower Selenufia. Near the ferry we difco-
vered the other, a long lake, parallel with the firſt, and extend-
ing acroſs the plain. The weir, which we ſaw, will inform us
what were the riches of theſe waters. Ephefus was greatly fre-
quented, and the receptacle of all who journeyed into the Eaſt
from Italy and Greece. A fishery, fo near to fo populous a mart,
muſt have been an article equally convenient to the city and
profitable to the proprietor. Some pieces of building, with
cement, remain by the river-fide above the ferry.
R 2
THE
132
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
THE river Cayfter, after entering the plain, runs by Galle
fus, and croffes above the lakes, oppofite the fquare tower.
Lower down it leaves but a narrow pafs, obftructed with
thickets, at the foot of the mountain. It then becomes wider
and deeper; and mingles, the ftream ftill and ſmooth, with the
fea. On the banks, and in the moraſs or port, and in the lake
near the ferry, we faw thick groves of tall reeds, fome growing
above twenty feet high; and it is obfervable, that the River-
god is reprefented on the Ephefian medals with this aquatic as
one of his attributes.
An ordinary bridge of three arches is built over the river, at
the foot of Gallefus. The road on that mountain has been
hewn in the rock. Our Armenians told us the work was done
by St. Paul, with a fingle ſtroke of a fcymitar. Some Caravans
ftill uſe it; and croffing the plain and the mouth of the moraſs
or port, proceed to the gap below the fquare tower, and to
Scala Nova without touching at Aiafalúck.
THE Cayfter has its rife up in the country among the hills
formerly called Cilbianian. It brings down many rivers, with
a lake, if yet in being, once named the Pegaféan; which was
driven into it by the Pyrrhites, a furious ftream, as may be in-
ferred from the name. The flime, which is collected in its
courſe, propagates land. The fea once acted by its flux and
reflux on the port of Ephefus. This has been diminished in
proportion, as the foil has increaſed and become firm ground.
The river alſo has perhaps gradually changed its own bed, while
it has augmented the plain.
THE arrangement of this portion of the coaft, given by
Strabo, is as follows. After Neapolis, now Scala Nova, and
Phygela, going northward, was port Panormus, which boasted
the temple of the Ephefian Diana; then the city, which had
arfenals and a port; beyond the mouth of the Cayfter was a
lake,
TRAVEL S IN ASIA MINOR.
133
lake, called Selenufia, made by water which the ſea repelled;
and in the fame direction, another, communicating with it;
then, mount Gallefus. Panormus, it is likely, was the general
name of the whole haven, and comprized both the Sacred Port
or that by which the temple ftood, and the City-Port now the
morafs. The former is perhaps quite filled up.
PLINY mentions, that, in confequence of the encroachments
of the river on the fea, the ifland Syrie was then feen in the
middle of a plain. That ifland was, I ſuſpect, the rock of
Aiafalúck.
CHA P. XXXVIII.
НА Р.
>
Of the temple of Diana---The idol---Account of it ---The prieſts,
&c. --- Self-manifeſtations of the goddeſs --- An Ephefian decree
Remarks.
WE would cloſe our account of Ephefus with the preceding
chapter, but the curious reader will afk, what is become of the
renowned temple of Diana ? can a wonder of the world be va-
niſhed, like a phantom, without leaving a trace behind? We
would gladly give a fatisfactory anfwer to fuch queries; but to
our great regret, we ſearched for the fite of this fabric to as little
purpofe as the travellers, who have preceded us.
THE worship of the great goddeſs Diana had been eſtabliſhed
at Epheſus in a remote age. The Amazons, it is related, facri-
ficed to her there, on their way to Attica in the time of The-
feus; and fome writers affirmed, the image was firſt ſet up by
them under a tree. The vulgar afterwards believed it fell down
from Jupiter. It was never changed though the temple had
been reftored feven times.
THIS
{
134
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
THIS idol, than which none was ever more fplendidly en-
ſhrined, has been deſcribed as of a middling fize and witneffing
its very great antiquity by the faſhion, in which it had been
formed; having the feet cloſed. It was of wood, which ſome
had pronounced cedar, and others ebony. Mutianus, a noble Ro-
man, who was the third time conful in the year of our Lord
ſeventy five, affirmed from his own obſervation, that it was
vine, and had many holes filled with nard to nouriſh and moiſten
it, and to preſerve the cement. It was gorgeouſly apparalled;
the veſt embroidered with emblems and ſymbolical devices: and
to prevent its tottering, a bar of metal, it is likely, of gold,
was placed under each hand. A veil or curtain, which was
drawn up from the floor to the ceiling, hid it from view,
except while ſervice was performing in the temple.
THE priests of the goddeſs were Eunuchs, and exceedingly
reſpected by the people. The old inſtitutions required, that
virgins ſhould affift them in their office, but, in procefs of time,
thefe, as Strabo has remarked, were not all obferved. The
titles of fome inferior minifters, it may be fuppofed, are re-
corded on the marble, which we found near the entrance of the
valley. Theſe are the facred herald, the incenſer, the player
on the flute at the libations, and the holy trumpeter.
Ir may be imagined, that many ſtories of the power and in-
terpofition of the goddeſs were current and believed at Epheſus.
The moſt ſtriking evidence of the reality of her exiſtence, and
of her regard for her fuppliants, was probably furniſhed by her
ſuppoſed manifeſtations of herſelf in vifions. In the hiſtory of
Maffiliæ, now Marſeilles, it is related, that ſhe was ſeen by
Ariftarche, a lady of high rank, while fleeping, and that the
commanded her to accompany the Greek adventurers, by whom
that city was founded. Metagenes, one of the architects of
her temple at Ephefus, had invented a method of raifing the
vaſt ſtones to the neceffary height, but it did not fucceed, fo
well
1
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 135
:
well as was expected, with a marble of prodigious fize, defigned
to be placed over the door-way. He was exceffively troubled,
and, weary of ruminating, fell aſleep, when he beheld the god-
defs, who bade him be comforted, fhe had been his friend.
The next day the ſtone was found to have fettled, apparently
from its own weight, as he wiſhed.
6.6
66
""
NEAR the path, after paffing the aquæduct at Aiaſalúck, in
our way from Smyrna, we met with a curious memorial of the
importance of the goddefs, and of the refpect paid to her. It
is a decree of the Ephefians, infcribed on a flab of white mar-
ble, and may be thus tranflated. "To the Ephefian Diana.
"Inafmuch as it is notorious, that not only among the Ephe-
"fians, but alſo every where among the Greek nations, tem-
ples are confecrated to her, and facred portions; and that ſhe
"is fet up, and has an altar dedicated to her, on account of her
plain manifeſtations of herſelf; and that befides, the greateſt
"token of the veneration paid her, a month is called after
"her name; by us Artemifion, by the Macedonians and other
"Greek nations, and in their cities, Artemifion in which,
general affemblies and Hieromenia are celebrated, but not
in the holy city, the nurfe of its own, the Ephefian god-
"defs: The people of Ephefus deeming it proper, that the
"whole month called by her name be facred and fet apart to
"the goddeſs, have determined by this decree, that the obfer-
"vation of it by them be altered. Therefore it is enacted,
that in the whole month Artemifion the days be holy, and
that nothing be attended to on them, but the yearly feaftings,
" and the Artemifiac Panegyris, and the Hieromenia; the en-
"tire month being facred to the goddeſs: for, from this im-
"provement in her worship, our city fhall receive additional
« luftre, and be permanent in its proſperity for ever." The per-
fon who obtained this decree, appointed games for the month,
augmented the prizes of the contenders, and erected ftatues of
thoſe who conquered. His name is not preferved, but he was
"
probably
136
IN ASIA MINOR.
TRAVELS
probably a Roman, as his kinfman, who provided this record,
was named Lucius Phænius Fauftus. The feaſt of Diana was
reforted to yearly by the Ionians, with their families.
}
A PEOPLE Convinced that the ſelf-manifeftations of the deity
before mentioned were real, could not eaſily be turned to a re-
ligion, which did not pretend to a fimilar or equal intercourſe
with its divinity. And this perhaps is the true reaſon, why, in
the early ages of chriftianity, befides the miraculous agency of
the ſpirit in prophetic fits of extaſy, a belief of fupernatural in-
terpofition by the Panagia or Virgin Mary, and by faints ap-
pearing in daily or nightly vifions, was encouraged and incul
cated. It helped by its currency to procure and confirm the
credulous votary, to prevent or refute the cavil of the heathen,
to exalt the new religion, and to deprive the eſtabliſhed of
its ideal fuperiority. The fuperftitions derived on the Greek
church from this fource, in a remote period, and ſtill continuing
to flourish in it, would principally impede the progreſs of any,
who ſhould endeavour to convert its members to the nakedneſs
of reformed chriſtianity. Great is the Panagia would be the ge.
neral cry; and her ſelf-manifeſtations, like thoſe of Diana an-
tiently, would even now be atteſted by many a reputable wit-
nefs. By what arguments ſhall a people, filled with affectionate
regard for her, and feeling complacency from their conviction
of her attention to them and of her power, be prevailed on to
accept our rational proteftantiſm in exchange for their fancied,
but fatisfactory revelations?
CHAP.
}
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
137
A
CHA P. XXXIX.
The Spot chofen for the temple of Diana---Skill of the architects
The new temple--- Its magnificence --- The Afylum
The temple
not in the city Plundered Its deftruction unnoticed
Suppoſed fite --- A Sybilline prophecy.
The
THE reputation and the riches of their Diana had made
the Ephefians defirous to provide for her a magnificent temple.
The fortunate diſcovery of marble in mount Prion gave them
new vigour. The cities of Afia, fo general was the eſteem for
the goddess, contributed largely; and Croefus was at the ex-
penſe of many of the columns. The ipot chofen for it was a
marſh, as moſt likely to preſerve the ftructure free from gaps,
and uninjured by earthquakes. The foundation was made with
charcoal rammed, and with fleeces. The fouterrain confumed
immenfe quantities of marble. The edifice was exalted on a
baſement, with ten fteps. The architects were Ctesiphon of
Crete, and his fon Metagenes, who were likewiſe authors of a
treatiſe on the fabric. Demetrius a fervant of Diana, and
Peonius an Ephefian, were faid to have completed this work,
which was two hundred and twenty years about.
THE diſtance between the fite of the temple and the quarries,
did not exceed eight thouſand feet', and no rifing intervened,
but the whole ſpace was level plain. Ctesiphon invented a cu-
rious machine, of which a deſcription is preſerved in Vitruvius,
for tranfporting the fhafts of the columns, fearing, if a car-
riage were laden with a ſtone ſo ponderous as each was, the
wheels would fink deep into the foil. Metagenes adapted his
contrivance to convey the architraves. Theſe were ſo bulky, that
1 Vitruv. 1. x. c. vi. where for, millia paffuum octo, read pedum. Millia
pedum quinque. 1. x. c. xiv, or paffus mille.
S
the
138
TRAVELS IN ASTA MINOR.
the raiſing any one of them to its place appeared a miracle. It
was done by forming a gentle afcent, higher than the columns,
of baſkets filled with fand, and emptying thoſe beneath, when
the maſs was arrived; thus letting it gradually down upon the
capitals. By this method the prodigious ftone formerly men,
tioned was inſerted over the door-way.
THIS temple, which Xerxes ſpared, was fet on fire by Herof-
tratus, but the votaries of Diana proved fo extravagant in their
zeal, that ſhe was a gainer by his exploit. A new and more
glorious fabric was begun; and Alexander the Great, arriving
at Ephefus, wifhed to infcribe it as the dedicator; and was
willing, for that gratification, to defray the whole expenfe; but
the Ephefians declined accepting this magnificent offer. The
architect then employed was the famous projector, who propofed
the forming mount Athos, when he had finiſhed, into a ftatue
of this king.
THE temple now erected was reckoned the firft in Tonia for
magnitude and riches. It was four hundred and twenty feet
long, and two hundred and twenty broad. Of the columns,
which were fixty feet high, one hundred and twenty feven were
donations from kings. Thirty fix were carved; and one of
them, perhaps as a model, by Scopas. The order was Ionic, and
it had eight columns in front. The folding-doors, or gates, had
been continued four years in glue, and were made of cypreſs-
wood, which had been treaſured up for four generations, highly
poliſhed Theſe were found by Mutianus as fresh and as beau-
tiful four hundred years after, as when new. The ceiling was
of cedar; and the fteps for afcending the roof, of a fingle ftem
of a vine, which witneffed the durable nature of that wood
The whole altar was in a manner full of the works of Praxiteles.
The offerings were ineftimable, and among them was a picture
by Apelles, reprefenting Alexander armed with thunder, for
which he was paid twenty talents of gold. The ftructure was
• Above 38,750h Englispa
7
;
TRAVEL SAIN ABIA MINOR.
Igh
.
fo wonderfully great in its compofition, and fo magnificently
adorned, it appeared the work of beings more than human. The
fun, it is affirmed, beheld in his courſe no object of fuperior ex-
cellence or worthier of admiration.
+
THE temple of Diana had the privilege of an afylum or fanc-
tuary before Alexander; but he extended it to a ſtadium or half
a quarter of a mile. Afterwards Mithridates fhot an arrow
from the angle of the pediment, and his boundary exceeded the
ftadium, but not much. Mark Antony, coming near him,
enlarged it fo as to comprehend a portion of the city; but that
conceffion proving inconvenient and dangerous, was annulled by
Auguftus Cæfar.
We have mentioned before, that the diſtance of the temple
from the quarries did not exceed eight thouſand feet, and that
the whole way was entirely level. From the detail now given,
it appears, that the temple was diftinct from the preſent city,
and the diſtance may be inferred; for Mark Antony allow-
ing the fanctuary to reach fomewhat more than a ſtadium from
it, a part of the city was comprized within thoſe limits. It
was, moreover, without the Magnefian gate, which, I fhould
fuppofe, was that next Aiafalúck; and, in the ſecond century
was joined to the city by Damianus, a Sophift, who continued
the way down to it through the Magnefian gate, by erecting a
ftoa or portico, of marble, a ſtadium in length; which expen
five work was inſcribed with the name of his wife, and intended
to prevent the abſence of the minifters, when it rained. He
likewiſe dedicated a banqueting-room in the temple, as remark-
able for its dimenfions, as its beauty. It was adorned with
Phrygian marble, fuch as had never been cut in the quarries
before.
■ Templum Dianæ complexi e diverfis regionibus duo Selinuntes. Pliny.
!
Sa
THE
140
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA
IN ASIA MINOR."
'
7
+
-
THE extreme fanctity of the temple inſpired univerfal awe
and reverence. It was for many ages a repofitory of foreign and
domeſtic treaſures. There property, whether public or private,
was fecure amid all revolutions. The civility of Xerxes was an
example to ſubſequent conquerors, and the impiety of facrilege
was not extended to the Ephefian goddeſs. But Nero was lefs
polite. He removed many coſtly offerings and images, and an
immenfe quantity of filver and gold. It was again plundered by
Goths from beyond the Danube, in the time of Gallienus; a
party under Rafpa croffing the Hellefpont, and ravaging the
country, until compelled to retreat, when they carried off a,
prodigious booty.
THE deftruction of fo illuftrious an edifice deferved to have
been carefully recorded by contemporary hiftorians. We may
conjecture it followed the triumph of chriſtianity. The Ephe
fian reformers, when authorized by the imperial edicts, rejoiced
in the opportunity of infulting Diana; and deemed it piety to
demoliſh the very ruin of her habitation. Hence, perhaps,
while the columns of the Corinthian temple have owed their
preſervation to their bulk, thofe of this fabric, with the vaft
architraves and all the maffive materials, have periſhed and are
confumed. Though its ftones were far more ponderous, and
the heap larger beyond compariſon, the whole is vanifhed we
know not how or whither. An antient author has deſcribed it
as ftanding at the head of the port, and fhining as a meteor.
We may add, that as ſuch too it has fince diſappeared.
IT has been fuppofed, that the fouterrain by the morafs or
city-port, with two pieces of antient wall, of ſquare ftone, by.
one of which is the entrance to it, are reliques of the temple;
but that ſpot was nearly in the centre of the city of Lyfimachus;
and befides, the temple was raiſed on a lofty baſement with
In the year of Chrift 262.
fteps.
}
TRAVELS
IN ASIA MINOR. 141
fteps. The edifice was deemed a wonder, not for its form, as
at all uncommon; but for the grandeur of its proportions, the
excellence of its workmanſhip, and the magnificence of its de-
corations. The vaulted fubftructions by the ſtadium might, it
is believed, furniſh an area correſponding better with this idea,
and more fuited to receive the mighty fabric; which, however,
it has been ſhown above was in the plain and diftinct, though
not remote from the prefent city.
A WRITER, who lived toward the end of the ſecond century,
has cited a Sibyl as foretelling, that, the earth opening and
quaking, the temple of Diana would be ſwallowed, like a ſhip
in a ſtorm, into the abyfs; and Ephefus lamenting and weeping
by the river-banks, would enquire for it, then inhabited no
more. If the authenticity of the oracle were undisputed, and
the Sibyl acknowleged a genuine propheteſs, we might infer
from the vifible condition of the place, the full accompliſhment
of the whole prediction. We now feek in vain for the temple;
the city is proftrate; and the goddeſs gone.
1
CHA P. XL.
Leave Aiafalúck --- Road to
Ortygia --- The lower way
Scala Nova
-
--- -
Of Phygela
Changes --- Of Scala Nova.
Of
AFTER ſtaying at Aiaſalúck four days, we fſet out at half
paſt ſeven in the morning, with a guide on an afs, for Nea-
polis or Scala Nova, diſtant three hours. The plain was covered
with mud and flime from the recent inundation. It produces-
corn, cotton, fefamus, and tobacco; but in feveral places was
fwampy and overgrown with ruſhes and reeds. Flocks, and
herds, and camels were feeding on it. We had Ephefus and
the morals or port on our left hand, until we were oppofite the
fquare tower, which has been mentioned as ftanding on a
precipice.
WE
1
142
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
We came in an hour to the gap in Coriffus, and left the plain
behind; our courfe winding fouth-eaſtward, and the caſtle of
Aiafalúck bearing 10m north of eaſt. We foon had the back.
of Coriffus on our left hand, with the exterior front of the
city-wall, high in the air, on the ridge, which is fteep and in-
acceffible. On the mountain, between the gap and the fea, are
likewife traces of a wall. Before us was a pleaſant valley, in
which is a Turkiſh burying-ground, and a mean ruinous aquæ-
duct, with a village beyond it named Arvifia. The road ap-
proaches the aquæduct, and then becomes rough and rugged,
leading over the rock, in view of the ſea, of the mouth of the.
Cayſter, and of the extremity of the plain of Ephefus, into
which a track defcends, croffing a piece of wet low ground at
the end of the mountain. We met a peaſant on an aſs laden
with grapes, and purchaſed fome of admirable flavour.
GOING on fouthward, we paffed under a fragment of a wall,
which appears from the earthen pipes in it, to have conveyed
water acroſs the road from the mountain on our left, which had
a channel ſtill in ufe, running a confiderable way along its fide.
Near this remnant, on our right, were veftiges of a ſmall town,
Pygela or Phygela, upon a hill. There once was a temple of
Diana Munychia, founded, as they related, by Agamemnon.
He was faid to have touched at this place, in his voyage home-
ward, and to have left behind fome of his men, who were dif-
abled by rowing. The wine of Phygela is commended by
Diofcorides; and its territory was now green with vines. We
had remarked, that about Smyrna the leaves were decayed, or
ftripped by the camels and herds of goats, which are admitted
to browze after the vintage. We came foon after in fight of
the fea and of Scala Nova.
Th
In the Ephefian decree, inferted in a preceding chapter, the
city is ftiled, The Nurfe of her own Goddefs. The local ftory
was, that Latona had been delivered of her in Ortygia, a beau
tiful
·
TRAVELS IN
IN ASIA MINOR. 143
tiful, grove of trees of various kinds, chiefly cypreffes, near
Epheſus on the coaft, a little up from the fea. This place
was filled with fhrines and images. A panegyris or general
affembly was held there yearly; and fplendid entertainments
were provided, and myftic facrifices folemnized. The Cen-
chrius, probably a crooked river, ran through it; and above it
was the mountain Solmiffus, on which, it was fabled, the Cu-
retes ftood and rattled on their fhields, to divert the attention
of Juno.
As the fite of Ortygia is marked by a mountain and a river,
we expected to diſcover it without much difficulty; and with
that view preferred, in our fecond journey from Ephefus, the
lower way to Scala Nova, going from the Gymnafium, where
we had pitched our tent, to the extremity of the plain, and then
along by the fea. We came in fight of the town fooner than
before, and turned into the road near Phygela, a little beyond
the broken wall, without meeting with any thing remarkable.
THE improved face of a country is perishable like human
beauty. Not only the birth-place of Diana and its ſanctity are
forgotten, but the grove and buildings, which adorned it, ap-
pear no more: and, perhaps, as I have fince fufpected, the land
has encroached on the ſea, and the valley, in which Arviſia is, was
once Ortygia. The houſes of Damianus, in the fuburbs of the
city, with the pleaſant plantations on his eſtate, and the artificial
iflands and portlets, which he made by the fea-fide, are all now
equally inviſible.
SCALA Nova is fituated in a bay, on the flope of a hill, the
houfes rifing one above another, intermixed with minarees and
tall flender cypreffes. A ftreet, through which we rode, was
hung with goat-ſkins expofed to dry, dyed of a moft lively red..
At one of the fountains is a farcophagus, uſed as a cistern. The
port was filled with ſmall-craft. Before it is an old fortreſs on.
a rock or iflet frequented by gulls and fea-mews. By the
water-
144 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
1
IN
water-fide is a large and good khan, at which we paffed a
night on our return. This place belonged antiently to the
Ephefians, who exchanged it with the. Samians for a town
in Caria,
WE fhall conduct the reader to the confines of Ionia with
Caria, by the rout we purſued in our firſt journey, and then re-
turn again to Scala Nova.
Continue our journey
CHA P. XLI.
Mount Mycale and Trogilium
At Suki
· Pafs Priene --- Perplexed in the plain.
*
WE arrived at Scala Nova from Aiafalúck at about eleven in
the morning, and drank coffee, while our men procured provi-
fions to carry with us. We mounted again at twenty minutes
after twelve, and leaving an aquæduct, with a road leading to-
ward the ſea, on our right hand, paffed over a broken cauſey to
a village pleaſantly fituated on a hill covered with vines, called
Cornea. We had frequent views of the coaft, and of the adja-
cent iſlands. Twenty minutes after, we ſtopped at a fountain
of excellent water, by which is a coffee-houſe, with a fhady
tree, where we dined.
We went on at half after three, and in ten minutes overlooked
a beautiful cultivated plain, lying low beneath us. Beyond it
was Mycale, a mountain, which has been defcribed as woody
and abounding in wild beafts; with the promontory, once called
Trogilium', which, running out into the fea toward the north
end of Samos, and meeting the promontory Pofidium, makes a
• Before Trogilium was an iflet of the fame name. Pliny reckons three Trogiliæ,
Pfilon, The Naked; Argennon, The White; Sandalion, The Sandal. See a chart in
Tournefort. v. I.
ftrait
TRAVELS IN ASIA
145
MINOR.
ftrait only feven ftadia or a mile, wanting half ´a quarter, wide.
The city Samos was toward the ſouth forty ftadia or five miles
from Trogilium. The paffage from Trogilium to Sunium in
Attica was fixteen hundred ftadia or two hundred miles.
WE met ſeveral ſtrings of flow, melancholy camels, and nu-
merous flocks of goats. The hills were covered with a ſhort
verdure from the late rains. Before us were lofty mountains.
Entering within the range, we had Mycale on our right hand,
and on our left the termination of mount Pactyas, and of mount
Meffogis; the latter, which was once famous for wine, reaching
hither from Celænæ in Phrygia, bounding the plain on the north-
fide of the river Mæander. As we advanced, the paffage widen-
ed; and we had on our right, a water-courſe. We difcovered the
dome of a mofque, with a minaret and a cypreſs-tree or two be-
fore us; and ten minutes after, came to Suki, a Turkiſh village.
We were lodged in a mean Caravanferá, with mud walls.
In the morning it lightened and rained; with awful thunder,
at intervals, on the mountain-tops, which were enveloped in
fleecy clouds. We left the village at ſeven, and travelled along
by the foot of Mycale, on the edge of a moſt extenfive plain,
ſkirted round with mountains. Mycale rofe very high on our
right hand, appearing as a fingle ridge, with many villages on its
fide. By the way were flowering fhrubs, and we enjoyed the
fragrance and dewy freſhneſs of ſpring in autumn.
We came
in two hours and a half near Kelibefh, where our guide was be-
mired. From this place we afterwards examined the ruins of
Samfon-kalefi or Priene, which we now paffed at half an hour
after nine; and at a quarter before eleven turned flanting over
the plain toward Palat or Miletus, which was in view. Behind
us was a village named Aurtborgus, bearing 15" caft of north.
OUR guide had miftaken his way, and led us on too far by the
foot of Mycale. This occafioned us much perplexity in the
plain, where in twenty five minutes we came to the water-courſe,
T
which
· 146
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
}
which winds before Priene. The bed was wide, almoſt dry,
and the banks ſteep. After croffing again and again, it ſtill con-
tinued to meet us, and to become more and more formidable,
until we were quite at a lofs how to proceed, when fortunately
we eſpied fome low huts made of reeds, and procured a peaſant
to conduct us. He waded over, and informed us, this was called
Cali-bech-ofmoc, The little River. The water appeared ſtág-
nant. After paffing it fix times in an hour and twenty minutes,
we left it on the right hand, and went on without farther obfta-
cle acroſs the plain, with the theatre of Miletus in view before
us. At ten minutes after one we were ferried over the Mæander,
now called Mendres, below it, in a triangular float, with a rope.
The man was a black, and in his features ftrongly reſembled a
Satyr. The water was fmooth, but muddy.
The theatre at Miletus
---The mofque, &c.
greatness.
CHA P. XLII.
Infcription on the wall
Modern hiftory of Miletus
Other remains
Its antient
MILETUS is a very mean place, but ftill called Palat or
Palatia, The Palaces. The principal relic of its former magni-
ficence is a ruined theatre, which is viſible afar off, and was a moſt
capacious edifice, meaſuring four hundred and fifty feven feet
long. The external face of this vaſt fabric is marble, and the
ſtones have a projection near the upper edge, which, we furmifed,
might contribute to the raifing them with facility. The profce-
nium or front has been removed. The feats ranged, as ufual,
on the ſlope of the hill, and a few of them remain. The vaults,
which ſupported the extremities, with the arches or avenues in
the two wings, are conſtructed with ſuch ſolidity, as not eaſily
to be demoliſhed. The entrance of the vault or fubſtruction, on
the left fide, was filled up with foil; but we examined that next
the river; one of our Armenians going before us with a candle
in
TRAVELS
147
IN ASIA
ASIA MINOR.
1
in a long paper lanthorn. The moment we had crept in, innu-
merable large bats began flitting about us. The ſtench was hardly
tolerable; and the commotion of the air, joined to the apprehen-
fions of our attendant, threatened us with the lofs of our light.
After we had got a confiderable way in, we found the paffage
quite choked with dry filth, and returned back. -
*
+
On the fide of the theatre next to the river is an infcription
in mean characters rudely cut, in which "The City Miletus" is
mentioned ſeven times. This is a monument of heretical chrif-
tianity. One Bafilides, who lived in the ſecond century, was
the founder of an abfurd fect called Bafilidians and Gnoftics, the
original' proprietors of the many gems with ſtrange devices and
inſcriptions, intended to be worn as amulets or charms, with
which the cabinets of the curious now abound. One of their idle
tenets was, that the appellative "Jehovah" poffeffed fignal virtue
and efficacy. They expreffed it by the ſeven Greek vowels, which
they tranſpoſed into a variety of combinations. The ſuperſti-
tion appears to have prevailed in no ſmall degree at Miletus. In
this remain the myſterious name is frequently repeated, and the
deity fix times invoked, “ Holy Jehovah, preferve the town of the
Milefians and all the inhabitants." The Archangels alſo are
ſummoned to be their guardians, and the whole city is made the
author of theſe fupplications; from which, thus engraved, it
expected, as may be preſumed, to derive lafting proſperity, and
a kind of talifmanical protection.
THE whole fite of the town, to a great extent, is ſpread with
rubbiſh, and overrun with thickets. The veftiges of the heathen
city are pieces of wall, broken arches, and a few fcattered pe-
deſtals and inſcriptions, a fquare marble urn, and many wells.
One of the pedeſtals has belonged to a ſtatue of the emperor Ha-
drian, who was a friend to the Milefians, as appears from the
titles of faviour and benefactor beſtowed on him. Another has
fſupported the emperor Severus, and has a long infcription, with
this curious preamble, "The fenate and people of the city of
T 2
"the
}
148
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
"the Milefians, the firft fettled in Ionia, and the mother of
"" many and great cities both in Pontus and Egypt, and in va-
"rious other parts of the world."---This lies among the bushes
behind the theatre. Near the ferry is a large lion in a couchant
poſture, much injured; and in a Turkish burying-ground ano-
ther. Theſe were placed on graves, or perhaps before a building
for ornament. Some fragments of ordinary churches are inter-
fperfed among the ruins; and traces remain of an old fortreſs
erected upon the theatre, beneath which is a ſquare incloſure de- de
figned, it ſeems, as a ftation for an armed party to difpute or de-
fend the paffage of the river. Several piers of a mean aquæduc
are ſtanding. The fountain named from Biblis, with the foene of
the ſtories concerning her paffion, was in the territory of Miletus.
A marble quarry, if I miſtake not, is diſcernible on the mountain,
which bounds the plain on the left hand, at a diſtance toward the fea.
FROM the number of forfaken mofques, it is evident, that
Mahometanifm has flouriſhed in its turn at Miletus. All theſe
have been mean buildings and mere patch-work; but one, a noble.
and beautiful structure of marble, is in uſe, and the dome, with
a tall palm-tree or two, towers amid the ruins and fome low flat-
roofed cottages, inhabited by a very few Turkish families, the
prefent citizens of Miletus.
THE hiftory of this place, after the declenfion of the Greek
empire, is very imperfect. The whole region has undergone
frequent ravages from the Turks, while poffeffed of the interior
country, and intent on extending their conquests weftward to the
fhore. One Sultan in 1175 fent twenty thousand men with
orders to lay wafte the Roman provinces, and bring him fea-
water, fand, and an oar. All the cities on the Mwander and on
the coaft were then ruined. Miletus was again deſtroyed to-
ward the end of the thirteenth century by the conquering
Othman.
MILETUS was once exceedingly powerful and illuftrious. Its
early navigators extended its commerce to remote regions. The
whole
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
149
whole Euxine fea, the Propontis, Egypt, and other countries,
were frequented by its hips, and fettled by its colonies, It
boaſted a venerable band of memorable men, Hecateus an early
hiſtorian, and Thales the father of philoſophy, It withſtood Da-
rius, and refuſed to admit Alexander. It has been filed the
metropolis and head of Ionia; the bullwark of Afia; chief in
war and peace; mighty by fea; the fertile mother, which had
poured forth her fons to every quarter, counting not fewer than
Leventy five cities deſcended from her. It afterwards fell fo low
as to furniſh a proverbial faying, "The Milefians were once
great" but if we compare its antient glory, and that its fubfe-
quent humiliation, with its preſent ſtate, we may juſtly exclaim,
Miletus, how much lower art thou now fallen !
CHA P. XLIII.
The Aga of Suki ---To Ura---To Branchida ---Port Panormus
A water --- Ruin of the temple of Apollo Didyméus
remains.
Other
WHILE we were employed on the theatre of Miletus, the
Aga of Suki, fon in law by marriage to Elez-Oglu, croffed the
plain towards us, attended by a confiderable train of domeſtics
and officers, their vefts and turbans of various and lively co-
lours, mounted on long-tailed horfes with fhowy trappings,
and glittering furniture. He returned, after hawking, to Mile-
tus; and we went to viſit him, with a preſent of coffee and fu-
gar; but were told that two favourite birds had flown away, and
that he was vexed and tired. A couch was prepared for him be-
neath a fhed made againſt a cottage and covered with green
boughs to keep off the fun. He entered, as we were ſtanding
by, and fell down on it to fleep, without taking any notice of us.
We rambled over the ruins, until he awoke, when we were
again admitted. He was fitting on a carpet, croſs-legged, with
a hooded
1
150
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
a hooded falcon on his knee, and another, which he ftroked
often and careffed, before him on a ſtand. Round about him
were dogs and horfes. The Armenian, who interpreted for us.
offered him our firhman, but he ſaid, it was fufficient that he
knew our country, that the Engliſh and Turks were brethren.
He examined our weapons with attention; diſcourſed on them
and our apparel, expreffed regret, that he was unable to entertain
us fo well, as he wished; and promiſed us a letter of recommen-
dation to the Aga of Melaffo. We were treated each with a pipe
and difh of coffee, after which, making our obeifance, we re-
tired, well pleaſed with his manly politeneſs and civility. In the
morning he fent the letter, and a little old man, a Turk, who
had been a camel-leader, and was well acquainted with the roads,
to be our guide.
當
​*
WE fet out at twenty minutes after eight for Ura, where we
expected to find the ruins of a famous temple dedicated to Apollo
Didyméus. It was at Branchide, which place was not far off
from Miletus either by land or fea. Near the city-gate, going
thither, on the left hand of the road, was once the monument
of Neleus, a leader of the Ionians, and founder of Miletus. This
was probably a barrow. We faw no traces of the city-wall. In
half an hour the plain ended, and we came to a range of hills
called antiently mount Latmus; and foon after to a poor village of
Greeks named Auctui, where we ſtaid an hour to procure fówls,
eggs, and other proviſions to be carried with us. At ten we had
paffed a heathy vale by the fea, and then croffing a high ridge,
had in view ſome columns of the temple, which are yet ftand-
ing. The road was over the mountain among low ſhrubs, chiefly
the arbutus then laden with fruit, like ftrawberries, large and
tempting, but not wholfome; the colour a lively red, the tafte
luſcious and woody. Before us was a ſmall inlet or gulf on the
north-fide of the promontory Pofidium, on which the temple is
fituated. We came to the head of it, and turning up into a
valley, arrived about twelve at Ura, where are a few ftraggling
huts.
1
A
}
A peaſant
1
ว
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR, 151
A peaſant of Ura undertook to conduct us to the ruins, which.
are half an hour diftant. We proceeded without difmounting,
and on a fudden a wild bull, roaring, rushed out of a thicket,
close by the road, and made furiously at our guide. The
man, who was before us, on foot, turning nimbly round fome
buſhes, eluded the attack. This terrible animal had for fome time
infested that diſtrict.
IN defcending from the mountain toward the gulf, I had re-
marked in the ſea ſomething white on the farther fide; and
going afterwards to examine it, found the remain of a circular
pier belonging to the port, which was called Panormus. The
ftones, which are marble and about fix feet in diameter, extend
from near the fhore; where are traces of buildings, probably
houſes, overrun with thickets of myrtle, maftic, and ever-
greens.
སྭ
SOME water occurring fifteen minutes from Ura, and pre-
fently becoming more confiderable, I traced it to the gulf, which
it enters at the head, after a very fhort courfe, full and flow.
This was antiently fuppofed to have its fource on mount Mycale,
and to paſs the fea in its way to Port Panormuş, by which it
emerged oppofite to Branchide.
>
THE temple of Apollo was eighteen or twenty ftadia, or about
two miles and a half from the fhore; and one hundred and
eighty or twenty two miles and a half from Miletus. It is ap-
proached by a gentle afcent, and feen afar off, the land toward
the fea lying flat and level. The memory of the pleaſure, which
this ſpot afforded me, will not be foon or eafily eraſed. The
columns yet entire are fo exquifitely fine, the marble maſs fo
vaft and noble, that it is impoffible perhaps to conceive greater
beauty and majefty of ruin. At evening a large flock of goats,
returning to the fold, their bells tinkling, ſpread over the heap,
climbing to browſe on the ſhrubs and trees growing between
}
the
132
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
the huge ftones. The whole mafs was illuminated by the de-
elining fun with a variety of rich tints, and caft a very strong
fhade. The fea, at a diſtance, was ſmooth and thining, bor-
dered by a mountainous coaſt, with rocky islands. The picture
was as delicious as ftriking. A view of part of the heap, with
plates of the architecture of this glorious edifice, has been en-
graved and publiſhed at the expenſe of the fociety of Dilettanti.
WE found among the ruins, which are extenfive, a plain,
ftone ciftern; many marble farcophagi, fome unopened, and one
in which was a thigh-bone, funk deep in earth; with five fta-
tues, near each other, in a row, almoſt buried. In the ſtubble
of fome Turkey wheat were a number of bee-hives, each a hol-
low trunk of wood headed like a barrel, piled in a heap. An
Armenian, who was with me, on our putting up a hare, to my
furprize flunk away. This animal, as I was afterwards informed,
is held in abomination by that people, and the feeing it accounted
an ill omen.
!
X
CHA P. XLIV.
At Ura
111
Their
At the temple
Ignorance of the Turks
buts --- Continue our journey --- The confines of Ionia with Caria,
THE temple of Apollo Didyméus feeming likely to detain
us fome time, we regretted the entire folitude of the ſpot,
which obliged us to fix our quarters at Ura. Our Armenian
cook, who tarried there with our baggage, fent us provifions
ready dreffed, and we dined under a fhady tree by the ruins. Our
horfes were tied and feeding by us. Our camel-leader teftified
his benevolence and regard, by frequent tenders of his thort pipe,
and of coffee, which he made unceasingly, fitting cross-legged
by a ſmall fire. The crows fettled in large companies round
about, and the partridge called in the ftubble.
A
3
TRAVELS EN ASIA MINO K. 153
Ar
AT our return in the evening to Ura, we found two fires,
with our kettles boiling, in the open air, amid the huts and
thickets. A mat was fpread for us on the ground by one of
them. The Turks of Ura, about fourteen in number, fome with
long beards, fitting cross-legged, helped to complete the grotesque
circle. We were lighted by the moon, then full, and fhining
in a blue cloudlefs fky. The Turks fmoked, talked, and drank
coffee with great gravity, compofure, and deliberation. One
entertained. us with playing on the Turkish guittar, and with
uncouth finging. The thin-voiced women, curious to fee us,
glided as ghoſts acroſs the glades, in white, with their faces muf-
fled. The affemblage and the frene was uncommonly wild, and
as folemn as favage.
THE attention and knowlege of our guefts was wholly con--
fined to agriculture, their flocks and herds.. They called the:
ruin of the temple, an old caftle, and we inferred from their an-
fwers: to our enquiries about it, that the magnificence of the
building had never excited in them one-reflection, or indeed at-
tracted their obfervation, even for a moment. Our diſcourſe,
which was carried on by interpreters not very expert in the Ita-
lian language, foon became languid and tirefome; and the fa-
tigues of the day contributed to render repofe and filence de-
firable.
+
WE retired, after fupper, to one of the huts, which was
near the fire, and, like the reft, refembled a foldier's tent; be-
ing made with poles inclining, as the two fides of a triangle, and
thatched with ſtraw. It was barely a covering for three perfons
lying on the ground. The furniture was a jar of falted olives,
at the farther end. Our men flept round the fire, and watched
ſome hours for an opportunity to ſhoot the bull, which twice came
near the huts, allured by the cattle. He then changed his haunt,
removing to a thicket at a diftance, where we frequently faw
him, or heard him roar. The weather as yet was clear and plea-
U
A
fant,
154
IN ASIA MINOR.
TRAVELS
fant, and the fun powerful. We drooped with heat at noon, but
at night experienced cold, and in the morning our thatch was
dripping with wet.
*
*
THE diforders, which began to prevail among us, required
a ſpeedy exchange of the thickets for fome lodging lefs damp
and chilly. We renewed our journey, after two entire days,
with ſatisfaction; and leaving the temple at eleven, on a Friday,
travelled nearly fouth-eastward over low ftony land covered'
with tufts or bushes. Before us was the mountain antiently
called Grium, a craggy range, parallel to mount Latmus; then
ftretching from the Milefian territory eastward through Caria, as
far as Euromus, which was on the ſea-coaſt.
*
AFTER Croffing the promontory we came to a deep bay, for-
merly called Sinus Bafilicus on the fouth-fide of Pofidium. The
road for twenty minutes was on the beach. We tarried under a
tree near a ſmall peninfula, on which was a hut or two, while
cur Turks performed the devotions cuſtomary on their fabbath.
We then entered between the mountains, the boundary now, as
we were told, of the Jurifdiction of Elez-Oglu, and antiently
of Ionia,
We now return to Scala Nova or Neapolis.
2
#
Of the Ionians
CHA P. XLV.
Their panegyris
Panionium
Story of the city Helice.
ON the arrival of the Ionian adventurers from the European
continent, the people, which before poffeffed the country, re-
tired or were expelled. The Carians had fettled about Miletus,
Mycale, and Ephefus; and the Leleges on the fide toward Pho-
}
céa.
*
1
TRAVELS IN
IN ASIA
ASIA MIN OR.
155
+
1
céa. Their fepulchres and caſtles, with veftiges of their towns,
remained for many ages, and fome are perhaps even now extant.
>
THE Ionian cities on the continent were, as has been men-
tioned, ten in number, not reckoning Smyrna. Thefe, with
Chios and Samos, gloried in their name, and to preſerve the
memory of their common origin, to promote amity and concord,
and to facilitate their union for mutual defence, when occafion
fhould require, inftituted a panegyris or General Aſſembly, in
which their deputies or repreſentatives had power to propoſe and
enact decrees, to debate and to determine on the interefts of the
community.
THE place, where this famous council, called the Panionian,
met, was on the coaft named Trogilia, three. ftadia or a quarter
of a mile and a half, from the fhore. It was a portion of mount
Mycale named Panionium, fronting the north, in the territory of
Priene, felected by the Ionic body, and confecrated to Neptune
Heliconius, to whom the cities jointly facrificed at the ſeaſon
of the congrefs. Their victim was a bull, and if he lowed while
dragging to the altar, it was deemed a good omen.
1
THE Prienéans, who were defcended from the Ionians of
Helice in Achaia, introduced the worſhip of this Deity. They
petitioned their mother-city to tranfmit to them an image
of him, and a plan of his temple, intending to erect one on the
fame model, but were refufed. They then obtained from the
Achæan community a decree in their favour; and, Hèlice not
complying with it, Neptune, it is related, grew angry, and in
the following winter, that city was ſwallowed up by an inunda-
tion of the ſea and an earthquake. This event happened in the
night, two years before the battle of Leuctra. The Achæans then
delivered to the Ionians the plan they had requeſted. A young
man was appointed by the Prienéans to prefide at the rites as
Sacrificing king during the feſtival.
U 2
CHAP.
1
}
156. TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
CHAP. XLVI.
Set out from Scala Nova -Separate and lofe our way Benighted
on moant Mycale-Goat-herds-To Changlee-To Panionium
To Kelibefb.
IN going from Scala Nova toward Miletus, as related in a
preceding chapter, we had in view on the right hand the coaſt
called Trogilia, and the promontory. We then paſſed Priene,
that journey having for its principal object the temple of Apolle
Didyméus. On our ſecond arrival at Scala Nova from Ephefus,
we refolved to proceed to Priene by Changlee, or, as was fup-
pofed, Panionium. That village is diftant about three hours.
from Scala Nova. We ftopped at the khan, while our men pur→
chafed proviſions, and fet forward at four in the afternoon with
a guide from the town, who put us into the road, which we have
mentioned as leading toward the fea, and then returned.
WE paffed, after defcending to the water-fide, along the edge
of the bay, and near a ruined caſtle on a hill in the plain. Our
janizary was mounted on a free horfe, and we, to keep pace with
him, ſeparated from our fervants, who followed with our bag-
gage behind. It was dufk, and Changlee lying up from the ſea,
eſcaped our obfervation. We expected to arrive there every mi-
nute, and rode on, until we came to the foot of mount Mycale,
and the beach was at an end. There, unfortunately, we difco-
vered a track with a gate before it, and went on, not doubting
but the village was near. Steep fucceeded fteep, the way flip
péry, uneven, often winding about vaft chafms, or clofe by the
brink of tremendous precipices, with the fea rolling beneath.
WE were benighted, and perplexed, the track not being dif-
tinguiſhable, though the moon began to fhine. We difmounted
to lead our horfes, when the janizary, who was a fat bulky man,
and
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
157'
and diftreffed by the bushes, which entangled in his long gar-
ments, bemoaned his fituation in broken Italian with the most
plaintive accents. We ftill perfevered, fuffering now from thirſt
even more than from fatigue, and at length heard the found of
water in à nook below us, when the moments feemed hours as
we defcended to it. After this refreſhment, we puſhed on as well
as we could, expecting to meet foon with fome houſe or villagé,
and commiferating our men and horfes embroiled, as we con-
ceived with our baggage on the mountain behind us.
ABOUT two in the morning our whole attention was fixed by
the barking of dogs, which, as we advanced, became exceed-
ingly furious. Deceived by the light of the moon, we now fan-
cied we could fee a village, and were much mortified to find
only a ſtation of poor goat-herds, without even a ſhed, and no-
thing for our horfes to eat. They were lying, wrapped in their
thick capots or looſe coats, by fome glimmering embers among
the buſhes in a dale, under a ſpreading tree by the fold. They
received us hofpitably, heaping on freſh fewel, and producing
Caimac or four curds, and coarfe bread, which they toaſted for
us on the coals. We made a fcanty meal fitting on the ground,
lighted by the fire and by the moon; after which, fleep fud-
denly overpowered me. On waking I found my two compa-
nions by my fide, fharing in the comfortable cover of the jä-
nizary's cloke, which he had carefully ſpread over us. I was
now much. ftruck with the wild appearance of the fpot. The
tree was hung with ruftic utenfils; the fhe-goats in a pen,
fneezed, and bleated, and ruftled to and fro; the ſhrubs, by
which our horfes ftood, were leaflefs, and the earth bare; a black
caldron with milk was fimmering over the fire; and a figure
more than ghaunt or favage, close by us, ftruggling on the
ground with a kid, whofe ears he had flit and was endeavouring
to cauterize with a piece of red hot iron.
WE had now the mortification to hear, that our labour was
fruitleſs, and that we muſt return the way wê came, both we
and
158
MINOR.
TRAVELS ASIA IN
IN
K
ASIA
A
and our horſes faſting. We left the goat-herds, and found the
track, which we had paffed in the dark, full of danger even by
day. We confumed near four hours on the mountain in going
back. Defcending from it to the beach we efpied one of our Ar-
menians, who was feeking us with a guide. They conducted us
to Giaur-Changlee, a fmall Greek village near a fhallow ftream.
By the way was a mean church, with a ruined inſcription in the
portico. We were welcomed by our men, who were waiting in
great perplexity and anxiety at the houſe of the papas or prieſt.
They had been out the whole night in queft of us, diſcharging
their guns and piftols, hoping the report would reach us, but in
vain. We refted at Changlee the remainder of the day.
*
THE next morning, April the ninth, it rained, but about ten
we mounted, and leaving the bay on our left hand, proceeded
with a guide toward Mycale. We foon came to Turkiſh Chan-
glee, which is feated higher up by a ſtream, then rapid and tur-
bid. I faw by the moſque an inſcription, which I wiſhed to
copy, but was accidentally the laſt of our caravan; and after our
late adventure was cautious of feparating from the reft. There,
it is likely, was the ſite of Panionium, and of the temple of Nep-
tune. The river was named the Gæfus or Geffus, and entered
the fea on the coaft called Trogilia. Two days before, the ftream
was inconfiderable, the mouth not wide, and croffed by a bar
of fand.
THE facred region Panionia ending, as we fuppofed, a broken
pavement carried us over fome roots of Mycale to a plea-
fant valley, in which a water-courfe commences. Several copious
rills defcended from the fides of the mountain, on which was an
over-fhot mill or two. The torrent farther on had torn down
the banks, which were fteep, with corn ftanding thick on the
very brink.
At a fountain by the way is a farcophagus with an
inſcription. I could read only a couple of the lines. About
two we came in fight of Suki; and going on, came at five in
the evening to Giaur-Kelibeſh.
CHA P.
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
159
>
CHA P. XLVII.
At Kelibefl--Zingari or Gypfies---Women lamenting--- Eafter---
A phænomenon --- Remark:
GIAUR-KELIBESH is a fmall village, inhabited, as the
name imports, by Chriftians or Greeks. It is fituated on the
eaſt-ſide of mount Mycale, the houſes rifing on a flope, and en-
joying a fine view over the plain. The church is mean and was
encompaſſed with graves. It appeared as a place recently ſettled.
We were here not far from the ruins of Priene, on which we
employed fome days, returning before funfet to Kelibeſh.
DURING our ſtay at the village, fome of the vagrant people,
called Atzíncari or Zíngari, the Gypfies of the Eaſt, came thi-
ther with a couple of large apes, which, their maſters finging
to them, performed a great variety of feats with extraordinary
alertneſs, and a dexterity not to be imagined, fuch as raiſed
highly our opinion of the docility and capacity of that ſagacious:
animal.
ONE evening, coming from the ruins, we found an old woman
fitting by the church on the grave of her daughter, who had been
buried about two years. She wore a black veil, and pulling the
ends alternately bowed her head down to her bofom; and at the
fame time lamented aloud, finging in an uniform diſmal cadence,
with very few pauſes. She continued thus above an hour, when
it grew dark, fulfilling a meaſure of tributary forrow, which the
Greeks fuperftitioufly believe to be acceptable and beneficial to
the fouls of the deceaſed. The next morning a man was in--
terred, the wife following the body, tearing her long diſhevel--
led treffes in agony, calling him her life, her love, demanding
the reaſon of his leaving her; and expoftulating with him on-
his
160
IN ASIA MINOR.
TRAVELS
his dying, in terms the moſt expreffive of conjugal endearments
and affection.
THE Greeks now celebrated Eaſter. A ſmall bier, prettily
decked with orange and citron-buds, jaſmine, flowers, and
boughs, was placed in the church, with a Chrift crucified rudely
painted on board, for the body. We faw it in the evening; and
before day-break were fuddenly awakened by the blaze and
crackling of a large bonfire, with finging and ſhouting in honour
of the Reſurrection. They made us prefents of coloured eggs,
and cakes of Eafter-bread.
THE weather had been unfettled. The fky was blue, but a
wet, wintry north-wind fwept the clouds along the top of the
range of Mycale. We were fitting on the floor early one morn-
ing at breakfaſt, with the door, which was toward the moun-
tain, open; when we diſcovered a ſmall rainbow just above the
brow. The fun was then peeping only over the oppofite moun--
tain, and, as it got higher, the arc widened, and defcended toward
us; the cattle, feeding on the flope, being feen through it, tinged.
with its various colours as it paffed down,, and feeming in the
bow. This phænomenon is probably not uncommon in the
mountainous regions of Ionia and Greece.
LET us fuppofe a devout heathen, one of our company, when
this happened. On perceiving the bow, defcend, he would have
fancied Iris was coming with a meffage to the Earth from Jupiter.
Pluvius; and, if he had beheld the bow aſcend in like manner,
which at fome feafons and in certain fituations he might do, he
would have confidently pronounced, that, the goddess had, per-.
formed her errand, and was going back to heaven,
CHAP.
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
161
f
1
1
༥
CHA P. XLVIII.
The acropolis of Priene — Deſcent from it — Remains of the city
- The wall and gate-ways-Taken by Bajazet.
*
*
THE morning after we arrived at Kelibeth, we ſet out to
furvey the ruins of Priene, with the Greek, at whoſe houſe we
lodged, for our guide. He led us firſt to the acropolis or citadel,
to which we afcended through the village; the track bad, by
breaks in the mountain and ſmall cafcades. We came in an
hour on a fummit of Mycale, flat, large, diftinct, and rough,
with ſtunted trees and deferted cottages, encircled, except toward
the plain, by an antient wall of the maſonry called Pfeudifodo-
mum. This has been repaired, and made tenable in a later age
by additional out-works. A fteep, high, naked rock riſes behind;
and the area terminates before in a moſt abrupt and formidable
precipice, from which we looked down with wonder on the dimi-
nutive objects beneath us. The maffive heap of a temple be-
low appeared to the naked eye, but as chippings of marble.
A WINDING track leads down the precipice from the acro-
polis to the city. The way was familiar to our guide and a lad,
his fon, who was with us. We liſtened to their aſſurances, and
enticed by a fair ſetting-out, followed them; but it ſoon became
difficult and dangerous. The fteps cut in the rock were narrow,
the path frequently not wider than the body, and fo fteep as
ſcarcely to allow footing. The fun ſhone full upon us, and was
reverberated by the rugged fide of the mountain, to which we
leaned, avoiding as much as poffible the frightful view of the
abyſs beneath us, and fhrinking from the brink. The long
continued deſcent made the whole frame quiver; and, looking up
from the bottom, we were aſtoniſhed at what we had done. We
could difcern no track, but the rock appeared quite perpendi-
cular; and a foaring eagle was below the top of the precipice.
X
At
}
162 TRAVELS IN ASIA (MYNOK.
At the temple we were joined by our fervants, who had led our
horfes down on the fide oppofite to that which we aſcended; and
with them came the fat Janizary, who had very wiſely ſneaked
off on perceiving our intention.
5
THE temple of Minerva Polias, though proftrate, was a re-
main of Ionian elegance and grandeur too curious to be haſtily
or flightly examined. An account of it, with a view and plates
of the architecture, has been publiſhed at the expenfe of the
Society of Dilettanti. When entire, it overlooked the ›city,
which was feated on the ſide of the mountain, flat beneath flat,
in gradation, to the edge of the plain. The areas are levelled,
and the communication preferved by ſteps cut in the flopos.
Below the temple are broken columns, and pieces of marble, the
remnants of edifices of the Ionic and Doric, orders. Farther
down is the ground-plat of the ſtadium, by the city-wall.. The
area was narrów, and the feats ranged only on the fide facing the
plain. In the mountain, on the left hand, going from the tem
ple, is the recefs, with ſome veftiges, of the theatre. Among
the rubbiſh and ſcattered marbles is an inſcription, with a frag-
ment or two, and ruins of churches, but no wells or mofques as
at Miletus. The whole circuit of the wall of the city is ftand-
ing, befides feveral portions within it worthy of admiration for
their folidity and beauty. It defcends on each. fide of the pro-
cipice, and is the boundary next the plain.
PRIENE, not including the acropolis, had three gate-ways.
One is toward Kelibeſh, and has without it vaults of fepulchres.
The entrance was not wide. A part of the arch, confifting of
a fingle row of maffive ftones, ftill remains; but thofe on which
it refts are fo corroded by age, broken, or diftorted, as to ſeem
every moment ready to yield and let down their load. A rugged
way leads to a ſecond opening in the wall appofite to this, and
as we gueffed, about a mile from it; beyond which are likewife
vaults of fepulchres. Between theſe was a gate facing the plain;
and on the left hand going out of it is a hole, refembling the
mouth
t
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素
​2
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 163
mouth of an oven, in the fide of a ſquare tower; and over it
an inſcription in ſmall characters exceedingly difficult to be read.
It fignifics, that a certain Cyprian, in his fleep, had beheld
Ceres and Proferpine, arrayed in white; and that in three vifions
they had enjoined the worship of a hero, the guardian of the
city, and pointed out the place, where in obedience to them he
had erected the god. This was probably ſome local hero, whoſe
kittle image was fet in the wall, and whoſe name and memory
have pariſhed.
THE modern hiftory of Priene, as well as of Miletus, is very
imperfect. It is now called Samfun and Samfun-kalefi, which
names feem not very recent. Samfun is among the places
taken in 1391 by Bajazet, who fubdued all Ionia.
Mount Titanus
CHA P. XLIX.
—Rocks in the plain-The Maander - Entangled
on the mountain-Benighted-Arrive at Myús.
WE have mentioned in a preceding chapter, that on Gallefus
we faw the craggy tops of a diſtant mountain, which, being
weather-worn, were of a whitifh fhining afpect. Thefe con-
tinued long vifible in various parts of the country, and often far
remote. The antient name of that ridge was Titanus, and taken
from the colour as reſembling chalk. Beneath it on the ſouth-
fide, by a lake, is Bafí or Capoumoulú, fix hours, as we were
told, from Kelibefh. The Greek our hoft undertook to conduct
us thither.
We left the village on the fifteenth of April at feven in the
morning. We found the torrent-bed, which occafioned our per-
plexity in going to Miletus, lefs formidable here, croffing it by a
wooden bridge made for foot-paffengers. It had received fome
water from the late rams, which had alfo flooded the plain at the
X 2
foot
164 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR'
foot of the mountain. The air was ſharp; and ſnow, recently
fallen, gliftened on the northern fummits. About nine, we came
to three, diftinct, bare rocks, reſembling iflets of the géan fea,
but furrounded with land inftead of water. On one is a village
named Oſebaſhá, and on the fide next Priene is a very wide
torrent-bed.
>
We went on, and after half an hour were ſtopped by the
Mæander. Here we were ferried over in a triangular float, with
a rope, in two minutes and a half. The ftream was broad, rapid,
and muddy, but low within the banks, which were indented by
the gradual finking of its furface. We afcended the mountain,
and enjoyed a delicious view of the river, croffing with mazy
windings from the foot of mount Meffogis, the northern boun÷
dary of the plain.
WE were informed at the ferry, that the road to Bafí, diſtant
from thence four hours, was bad. We met on it a few camels,
which carry their burthens high on their backs, or I ſhould have
deſcribed it as only not abfolutely impaffable. It lies over a
branch of Titanus, which mountain is uncommonly rough and
horrid, confifting of huge, fingle, irregular, and naked rocks
piled together; poiſed, as it were, on a point; or hanging dread-
fully over the track; and interſperſed with low ſhrubs and ſtunted
oaks. Our horfes fuffered exceedingly, fliding down, or jam,
med with their burthens, or violently forced from the road, and
rolling over the ſteeps; and our men were much jaded with load-
ing and unloading them, and bruiſed by tranſporting our bag-
gage on their ſhoulders at the narrow paffes.
*
We were benighted in this wild mountain, when we came to
a ftrait, where the difficulty feemed infurmountable. Three or
four of us at length pushed through; and leading our horfes into
a vale beneath, committed them to the care of the Janizary. We
then joined our companions in diftrefs, who were perplexed
above; and, lighting candles, began, all hands, to carry down
our
}
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 165
our baggage piece-meal. The Greek atoned in ſome meaſure for
bringing us this way by his laborious activity, in which he was
equalled by our Swiſs; but the Armenians aré a dull and heavy
race We pitched our tent near a tree, not far from a rill, on a
green ſpot furrounded with brown, naked rocks.
OUR toil was renewed in the morning, but about noon we
got clear from the mountain. When near Bafi, we entered a
fmall plain half-encircled with a bare ridge. This avenue had
been barricaded. We pitched our tent foon after upon a pleaſant
green area within the city-walls of Myûs.
*
1
CHAP. L.
Of Myús ---The fite and remains---Graves, &c.--- An oratory ---
Another Ruined churches and monafteries --- Of Thymbria --
Gnats and flies..
THE ftory of Myûs is remarkable, but not fingular. A
town by Pergamum had ſuffered in the fame manner. Myûs
originally was ſeated on a bay of the fea, not large, but abound-
ing in fith. Hence, this city was given to Themiftocles to fur-
niſh that article for his table. The bay changed into a lake,
and became freſh. Myriads of gnats fwarmed on it, and the
town was devoured, as it were, from the water. The Myufians:
retired from this enemy to Miletus, carrying away all their
moveables and the ſtatues of their gods. They were incor-
porated with the Milefians, and facrificed, and gave their fuf-
frage with them at the Panionian congrefs. A writer of the
ſecond century relates, that nothing remained at Myûs in his
time, but a temple of Bacchus of white ſtone or marble.
1
THE fite of Myûs is as romantic as its fortune was extraor-
dinary. The wall inclofes a jumble of naked rocks rudely piled,
off
$
f
$66
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
}
of a dark diſmal hue, with precipices and vaft hollows, from
which perhaps ftone has been cut. A few huts, inhabited by
Turkiſh families, are of the fame colour, and fcarcely diftin-
guiſhable. Beyond thefe, fronting the lake, you find on the left
hand a theatre hewn in the mountain, with fome moffy rem-
nants of the wall of the profcenium; but the marble feats are
removed. Between the huts and the lake are feveral terraces with
fteps, cut as at Priene. One, by which our tent, stood, was a qua-
drangular area, edged with marble fragments; and, we conjee-
tured, it had been, the Agora. By another were ftones orna-
mented with ſhields of a circular form. But the principal and
moſt conſpicuous ruin is the ſmall temple of Bacchus, which is
feated on an abrupt rock, with the front only, which is toward
the eaſt, acceffible. The roof is deftroyed. The cell is well-
built, of ſmooth ſtone with a brown cruft on it. The portico
was in Antis. We meaſured ſome fragments of it, and regretted
that any of the members were miffing. It has been uſed as a
church, and the entrance walled up with patch-work. The
marbles, which lie fcattered about, the broken columns, and
mutilated ſtatues all witneſs a remote antiquity. We met with
ſome inſcriptions,, but not legible. The city-walk was conftruct-
ed, like that at Ephefus, with fquare. towers, and is. ftill ftand-
ing, except toward the water. It runs up the mountain-flope fo
far as to be in fome places hardly difcernible.
WITHOUT the city are the coemeteries of its early inhabi-
tants; graves cut in the rock, of all fizes fuited to the human
ftature at different ages; with innumerable flat ftones, which
ferved as lids. Some are yet covered, and many open, and, by
the lake, filled with water. The lids are over-grown with a
fhort; dry, brown mofs, their very aſpect evincing old age. We
were ſhown one infeription, cloſe by a ſmall hut in a narrow pafs
of the mountain weftward, on marble, in large characters. It
records a fon of Seleucus, who died young, and the affliction of
his, parents; concluding: with a tender expoftulation with them
on the inefficacy and impropriety of their immoderate fornows
'
2
Nearer
1
1
167
TRAVELSYN ASIA MINOR.
}
Nearer the city, among ſome trees, is a well with the bafé of a
column perforated on the mouth.
A couple of Turks, who undertook to ſhow us fomething
extraordinary, conducted me, with one of my companions, up
into the mountain on the east-fide of Myus, on which are many
traces of ‹antient walls and towers. We climbed feveral rocks
in the way; our guides with bare feet, carrying their papouches
or flippers in their hands. We came in about an hour to a large
rock, which was ſcooped out, and had the infide painted with
the hiſtory of Chrift in compartments, and with heads of bifhops
and faints. It is in one of the most wild and retired receffes
imaginable. Before the picture of the crucifixion was a heap of
ftones piled as an altar, and ſcraps of charcoal, which had been
ufed in burning incenfe; with writing on the wall.
*
Gorne back, I tarried with one of the Turks, while a fhower
fell, in a fingle rock, hollowed out; with the door-way above
the level of the ground. It ftands diſtinct and tall. On the dome
within, Chrift was pourtrayed, and on the round beneath, the
Panagia or Virgin, with faints. The figures are large, and at full
length; the defign and colouring fuch as may be viewed with
pleaſure. On the plafter are infcriptions painted, and faint from
age. One, which I carefully copied, informs us, the oratory had
been 'beautified for the fake of the prayers and falvation of a cer-
tain fub-deacon and his parents. Here feemed to have been a
quarry. The brown rocks had graves on their tops, and the ſoft
freſh turf between them was enamelled with flowers.
It may
be inferred from the remnants of the monaſteries and
churches, which are numerous, that Myûs was re-peopled,
when monkery spreading from Egypt, toward the end of the
fourth century, overran the Greek and Latin empires. The lake
abounding in large and fine fish, afforded an article of diet not
unimportant under a ritual, which enjoined frequent abſtinence
from fleſh. It probably contributed to render this place, what
it
168
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
>
•
it appears to have been, a grand refort of fanciful devotees and
fecluded hermits, a nurſery of faints, another Athos or holy
mountain.
We were ſupplied with corn for our horfes and with provi-
fions from a village by the head of the lake; where are veftiges
of antient building. There probably was Thymbria, a village
in Caria, within four ſtadia or half a mile of Myûs; by which
was a Charonium or facred cave; one of thofe which the antients
ſuppoſed to communicate with the infernal regions, and to be
filled with the deadly vapours of lake Avernus. We purchaſed
water from the huts in Myûs at a dear rate; and fifh taken in
the lake with a ſmall trident.
THE old nuiſance of Myûs, gnats, fwarmed already in the
air, teaſing us exceedingly; and, toward the evening, the in-
fide of our tent was blackened with flies cluſtering round about
the poles. One of our men, thinking to expell and deſtroy
them by a fudden exploſion of gunpowder, procured a momen-
tary riddance, and ſet fire to the canvas in three or four places.
CHA P. LI.
The lake of Myûs --- An iſlet --- A rock in the lake
Another illet
· Another ---Function of the lake with the Mæander --- Altars
and niches.
+
THE lake of Myûs is vifible both from Priene and Miletus.
It is much longer than it is broad. The water is infipid, and
not drinkable. We obſerved the inbat here as at Smyrna; a
breeze lightly ſkimming along the ſmooth ſurface, then ſpring-
ing gently up, and increafing with the day; the waves agitated,
and moving in regular progreffion toward the ſhore. On the
edges and round about it are ſquare towers and ruinous caſtles,
befides
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR 169
+
(
befides one at Myûs; erected in times of war or rapine, to
fecure and command the paſſes.
THE lake has in it ſeveral rocky iflets. One, near Myûs, is
furrounded with an ordinary wall inclofing the ruin of a church.
The water is fo fhallow, that we once waded acrofs. It was
chofen as the best point of view for a drawing of the city and
mountain. Our fervant found there the neſt of ſome water-fowl
in a hole of the wall, filled with large eggs, fpeckled with red.
Among the rubbiſh was a marble with a fepulchral inſcription,
"Heraclides fon of Sotades, Neocore, or Temple-Sweeper, to He-
"cate." This temple was perhaps by the Charonium near Thym-
bria. The Neocori had the general care of the temples, to which
they belonged; and the office was accounted very honourable.
It was fometimes conferred on cities, and is found inſcribed
among their titles.
ว
LOWER down the lake is a rock, which I viſited in a boat, or
rather a few boards badly faftened together. I had with me the
Swiſs and one of the natives. It is joined to the continent by a
low fand-bank, and has a wall of deſpicable patch-work round
it. Mount Titanus is the margin of the lake on that fide. Our
return to Myûs was attended with fome rifque. It was evening,
our float flight, the gale ftrong, and the fea rough.
I was defirous to go down the lake to its mouth. The Inbat
feemed regular, and it was expected would waft us pleaſantly
back. We embarked in the morning in a large boat, but could
procure no fail. We rowed to a pictureſque iflet, beyond the
rock, covered with ruins of a monaftery, and found an infcrip-
tion in Greek over the door-way of the church, but the letters
fo difguifed by ligatures exceedingly complicated, that I could
neither copy nor decypher it. On a couple of marbles in the
wall is carved a double hatchet, and under it the name of the
proprietor, "Jupiter of Labranda." This deity was much wor-
hipped in Caria, to which province Myûs once belonged. We
Y
fhall
1
A
L
170
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
ſhall have occafion, when we arrive at Mylafa, to treat of him,
and ſhall then explain his ſymbol, which occurs, not ſeldom, to
the antiquary, and eſpecially the medalliſt.
OUR boat moved very heavily, but we tugged on from this
iflet to one in a line with it on the north fide of the lake, over-
fpread likewife with rubbish. On the fhore we found young
tortoifes, lively, but fo fmall, that we fuppofed they were juft
hatched from the eggs. The fish roſe all around us, and the tops
of the rocks above the furface of the water were covered with
birds. We were amuſed with vaft flights of fowl, fome of a ſpecies
unknown to us.
66
THE Greek emperor Manuel lay near this lake with his army
about the year 867. His camp, fays the hiftorian, was fitu-
"ated toward the mouths of the Mæander. There an immenfé
"quantity of water iffues forth at the feet of the mountains, as
"it were the produce of a thouſand ſprings; and ſpreading a
deluge over the adjacent country, at firft compofes a lake, and
"then going on cuts a deep bed and forms a river." We were
now told that its junction with the Mæander is by a channel
about half a mile long. The city of Myûs had antiently an inter-
courfe by water with Miletus, and a communication with the
fea, from which a boat might ftill pafs up to it.
L
WE had obferved at Myûs many fmall fquare niches cut; and
rocks, with fteps to afcend up to the top. Theſe places, it may
be conjectured, were defigned for the worthip of the watry divi-
nities; to receive propitiatory offerings, or votive tablets; the
memorials of real or imaginary perils and efcapes; the tribute of
their fuppliants diftreffed and relieved in their occupation or voy-
ages on the lake.
>
1 Cinnamus.
CHAP
+
+
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 171
+
CHA P. LII.
First difcovery of Myús - To Merfenet
+
To Miletus
To Oran-
duick --
The night-To Suki and Smyrna-Remark on the
Water-Courſe in the plain — Account of a Journey in 1673
Remarks on it.
-
WE were led unexpectedly to the diſcovery of Myûs in our
firft journey, on the way to Miletus from Mylafa in Caria. We
had croffed the mountain, and our guide, at the head of the lake,
leaving the road to Miletus, which is on the oppofite fide, con-
ducted us to Myûs. We diſmounted at the caſtle and took a
curfory furvey of the ruins. It was evening before we had finiſh-
ed, and too late to attempt reaching Miletus.´
We had confumed our whole ftore of proviſions, which con-
fifted of a few hard eggs, fome grapes and bread, on our arrival
here. We now found we could procure neither corn for our
horfes, nor any kind of food to allay our own hunger, which
began to be importunate. We mounted, and went in queft of a
lodging, paffing from village to village, and enquiring, in vain,
for corn. At length we were benighted among the hills on the
fouth fide of the lake, with jackalls howling round us. After
fome time we ſtopped at Merfenet, a village upon mount Lat-
mus, which afforded us a diſh of boiled wheat, and ſome muſt
of wine, with honey; but the quantity ſo ſmall, it rather paci-
fied the preſent cravings of appetite than fatisfied the ftomach.
Nothing remained for the morning, and both we and our horfes
fet out fafting.
THE way to Miletus, after defcending the mountain, was by
the lake to the plain. We had then the Meander winding on
our right, and mount Latmus bordering the level green on our
Y 2
left,
$
172 TRAVELS
IN ASIA MİNOR”
left, both at a distance. Our courfe was 20m north of weft, and
in five hours we arrived the fecond time at Miletus.
OUR lodging at this place before had been a ſmith's fhop, in
which we lay very roughly, ftraitened for room, and peſtered
exceedingly with gnats and other infects. We had now no in-
clination to refume it; but refolved, after refting awhile, to go
on to a village bearing north-eaft from Miletus, diftant three
hours, called Oranduick. We ferried over the Mæander in the
evening, and croffing the plain, were furrounded on the way by
vaſt packs of jaçkalls, hunting in full cry. It was dark when
we arrived, and were admitted into a mud-built hut, in which
were ſeven or eight Turks.
BEFORE we had been long at this place, we would gladly
have exchanged for the ſhop at Miletus with all its inconveni-
ences. The converfation, which paffed among the Turks, gave
room to apprehend bad purpoſes, and our men in general were
very uneafy. It thundered and lightened exceedingly at a dif
tance; but fleeping in the air by a fire, about which ſome of
them were fitting, feemed to me preferable to heat and ſuſpected
company within the hut. In a fhort time, after a dead filence,
the village-dogs began on a fudden to bark, the cattle to low as
if in diſtreſs, and the jackalls to howl; a violent ruſh of wind
had ſcattered away the embers of the fire, with my bed-cloths,
and rain was falling heavily in large drops. A flaſh of blue lighten-
ing directed me to the hut, which in an inſtant was crouded with
our men and baggage, and almoſt as foon let in the wet on us.
This ſtorm, however, had its ufe, as by affembling us, it fruf-
trated any evil intentions of the Turks.
/
AFTER a most uncomfortable night, we mounted, at feven
in the morning, for Suki. Our courfe was nearly north by weſt,
acroſs the middle of the plain. We left the rocks or knolls,
which we obſerved in our way from Priene to the ferry, with
Oſebaſhá, upon the right hand, and paffed a wide water-courfe
twice.
+
་
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 173
twice. The foil was flimy and flippery, and our guide, who was
on a gray horſe, like his rider, ftricken in years, had a fall, but
was not hurt. We arrived at Suki after ten, fome indiſpoſed from
our late fufferings, and the janizary complaining of an old rup-
ture: We left the khan in the afternoon; our little Turk, whom
we had paid and diſmiſſed, ſtanding in the road, and following us
with good wishes, the effufions of his gratitude and regard. We
lay at Scala Nova, and the next night at Oſebanar beyond Aia-
falúck. We were on horſeback again before day-break, and reach-
ed Smyrna in the evening.
IN traverfing the plain back to Suki, as above related, the
water-courſe, which embarraffed us fo much in going to Mile-
tus, did not occur. The conclufion was obvious, that it had
been worn by torrents from mount Mycale. In this opinion I
was afterwards confirmed by a view of it from the precipice of
Priene. It is continued from the valley, where, coming from
Changlee, we obſerved the banks ſteep and torn, with corn ftand-
ing on the brink. The bed approaching Suki, is wide and ſhal-
low, the ground being hard. It then cuts the plain with many
windings, its direction moſt ſtrait before Priene; and farther on,
croffes from near Mycale, 20m weft of fouth, its mazes very
intricate; and unites with the Mæander below Miletus, deepen-
ing as it advances, and fwelled after heavy rains with rills from
the fides of the mountain.
I
WHELER and Spon are indebted for the account which they
have publiſhed of this region to a journey begun in June, 1673,
by Dr. Pickering and fome merchants of Smyrna. Theſe travel-
lers, quitting Changlee about four in the morning, gained the
top of Mycale, on which they had an extenfive view, and one of
them defigned the mazes of the Mæander. They defcended by a
difficult and narrow track, and in two hours came into the plain,.
having left behind the remains of a caftle eastward. From Sam
³ p. 267.
I P.
für
>
174
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR
}
fun or Priene, then a village at the foot of Mycale, they paffed
through a large plain to the Mæander, called by the Turks Boiuc-
Minder, or the Great Meander, which they croffed at a ferry,
where it was about fixteen fathom broad, and as many deep in
the middle, as the man informed them, with the current very
ſwift. About two hours after this, they arrived at Palatfha,
where they pitched their tents on the banks of a large river,
which, running through a great lake, falls into the Mæander.
The ferry therefore
There the ſtream was
diſtinguiſh it, not, as
THE reader will obferve, that thefe travellers croffed the river
but once between Samfun and Palatſha.
was below the junction of the two beds.
called The Great Meander, probably to
has been ſuppoſed, from the Cayfter, which is remote, but from
the other, or Little River, which it receives. This they mistook
for the principal ftream, being ignorant of the true Meander,
with which the lake of Myûs communicates, and which runs by
Palatha. This alfo lay beneath them, when on mount Mycale,
and was ſeen diftin&tly, as in a chart. Their draught(man de-
lineated its turnings and windings for thoſe of the old and famous
river; and its mazes, which helped to impofe on them, pre-
vented even the fufpicion of an error.
CHA P. LIII.
The Maander muddy - The bed--- Its courfe to the lake To the
Sea --- Change in the face of the region Its antient geography
---The islands before Miletus ---The rocks of Ofebafhȧ---Increaſe
of land --- Its progreſs unnoticed --- Future encroachments.
WE have already mentioned the Mæander among the rivers
of Afia Minor, antiently noted for the production of new land.
The ſtream, it was remarked, in paffing through the ploughed
grounds of Phrygia and Caria, collected much flime, and bring-
ing it down continually, added to the coaft at its mouth.
THE
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 175
+
THE Mæander was indictable for removing the foil, when
its margin tumbled in; and the perfon, who recovered damages,
was paid from the income of the ferries. The downfalls were
very frequent, and are fuppofed, with probability, to be the
cauſe of the curvity of the bed; the earth carried
the earth carried away from
one part lodging in another, and replacing the lofs fuftained on
one fide by adding to the oppofite bank.
WE have defcribed the fream as croffing from near mount
Meffogis to the foot of Titanus oppofite to Priene; and on that
fide it continues, running toward the mouth of the lake of
Myús. Probably the level of the intermediate plain determined
it in that courfe; the foil waſhed from Mycale, or fupplied by
the torrent, raifing the furface there, and forbidding its approach.
The current repelled by the rocks of Ofebafhá, and contracted
about the ferry, wore its prefent channel, while the mud was
foft and yielding; and the bed, which we paffed near them, was
created from the fame obftruction, the water after floods running
off there more forcibly, as meeting with more refiſtance.
THE river turns from the mouth of the lake, with many wind-
ings, through groves of tamarifk, toward Miletus; proceeding
by the right wing of the theatre in mazes to the fea, which is
in view, and diftant, as we computed, about eight miles; the
plain ſmooth and level as a bowling-green, except certain knolls
extant in it, near mid-way, before Miletus. One of thefe, the
northermoſt, is ſeen diſtinct, as a hillock; and on a bigger is a
village named Bautenau. In that part is the union of the water-
courfe of Priene with the river, which winds fouth of the hil-
lock, and has on its margin, two or more miles beyond, a ſmall
fortress. The extremity of the plain by the ſhore appeared, from
the precipice of Priene, marfhy, or bare, and as mud. Such
was the face of this region, when we faw it. How different
from its afpect, when the mountains were boundaries of a gulf,
and Miletus, Myûs, and Priene, maritime cities !
STRABO,
176 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR;
STRABO, a geographer, as exact as comprehenfive, whofe
volume is indeed an ineftimable treaſure, will furniſh us, as it
were, with a chart, enabling us to contemplate this coaft, as it
exiſted toward the commencement of the chriſtian æra; before
a famous fophift affirmed of it, that the river had taken the fea
from the navigator, and given it to the huſbandman to be di-
vided into fields; that furrows were feen in the place of waves,
and kids ſporting in the room of dolphins; and that inſtead of
hearing the hoarſe mariner, you were delighted with the ſweet
echo of the paſtoral pipe.
MILETUS had then four ports, one of them very capacious;
and before it was a cluſter of fmall islands. Beyond Miletus,
the coaft winding, was a bay called the Latmian, from Latmus,
the adjacent mountain. In this bay was "Heraclea under
"Latmus," a ſmall town, once called Latmos, with a road for
veffels; and near that place, after croffing a rivulet, you was
ſhown a cave, with the fepulchre of Endymion. On this moun-
tain, it was fabled, Luna caft that hero and hunter into a pro-
found fleep, to have the pleaſure of faluting him. After Hera-
clea was Pyrrha, an inconfiderable town, the distance between
them by ſea about one hundred ſtadia or twelve miles and a half.
From Miletus to Heraclea was a little more, coafting the bay;
but from Miletus to Pyrrha, in a ſtrait courſe, was only thirty
› The Latin interpreter of Strabo has omitted the words From Miletus to Pyrrha.
See alſo Cellarius. p. 52.
The Geographer, after mentioning flightly Pyrrha and Heraclea as inconfiderable
towns, advertiſes his reader, that the compaſs of his work requires him not to
dwell but on places of note. This paffage is grofsly miftranflated. 'The inter-
preter will frequently miſlead thofe, who attend not to the original; and is, in this
inſtance, the fole cauſe why Wheler, finding himſelf puzzled, ſuſpects Strabo to
be leſs accurate in this portion of his work, than he pretends to be.
The river running by the theatre of Miletus perplexed Wheler exceedingly.
He fuppoſes Miletus to have been Pyrrha, and Branchide to be Heraclea. Spon;
with the fame materials, fuppreffes the mention of any difficulty; and, on the
authority of the inſcription on the theatre, boldly calls the place Miletus. Cel-
larius
"
"
!
}
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
177
ſtadia or three miles and three quarters, ſo much longer was the
voyage by the fhore. From Pyrrha to the mouth of the Mean-
der were fifty ſtadia or fix miles and a quarter, the ground flimy
and marshy. From thence you failed up to Myûs', thirty ſtadia,
in fkiffs, which plyed. After the mouth of the Mæander was
the coaſt againſt Priene. The fea had once waſhed the wall of
this city, and it had two ports, one of which ſhut up; but
then it was ſeen within land, forty ftadia or five miles above the
fhore.
THE principal iſland in the cluſter before Miletus was Lade.
There, when invaded by Darius, the Ionians affembled three
hundred and fixty triremes, and engaged his fleet of fix hun-
dred. The Milefians had eighty fhips, and formed the wing
toward the eaſt. Next to them were the Prienéans with twelve,
and the Myufians with three. The iſland was afterwards feized
by Alexander; and, while he befieged Miletus, was the ſtation
of the Greek admiral, who blocked up the port. The Mile-
fians, when he was about to ftorm the city, tried to efcape,
larius prefers the opinion of Wheler. He cites Strabo to prove, the diſtance between
Miletus and the mouth of the river was CX ftadia; and obſerving it only X in
Pliny, fuppofes the numeral C omitted. But the calculation from Strabo is imper-
fect and erroneous, the emendation of Pliny neither well founded nor neceffary;
and it happens, that Spon is fuperficially right, while Cellarius with Wheler is
learnedly miſtaken.
It were eaſy to enlarge on the errors of Cellarius in this part of his work, and
to reflect back the unmerited cenfures, which he beſtows on the antient writers,
who have treated on the places. See pages 51, 52, 53, 54.
We may with reaſon wonder, that fo obvious a clew to theſe intricacies and
ſeeming contradictions, as that we have given, has hitherto eſcaped the modern
travellers, geographers, and annotators, in general; eſpecially as each claſs pro-
feffes to take Strabo for their fureft guide or principal counſel.
¹ The diſtance between Miletus and Myûs, by water, feems to have been one
hundred and ten ftadia or thirteen miles and three quarters.
From Miletus to Pyrrha
St.
30
}
From Pyrrha to the mouth of the Mæander
From thence to Myûs
50
30
Z
fome
}
178
MINO R.
TRAVELS IN ASIA
5
fome in fkiffs, fome fwimming on their bucklers, but were in-
tercepted; only three hundred getting to a fteep iflet, which
they refolved to defend. This probably was one by Lade. Two,
near Miletus, called Camelidae, The Camels, were among the
lefs confiderable. A fingle one, it is likely the northermoſt hil-
lock, was called Afteria from Afterius, whoſe ſkeleton, remark-
able for its fize, was ſhown there. He reigned, it is related,
before the Ionic migration. By the Tragiæ, probably mud-
banks and fhoals formed by the river, were other iflets, the
ſtations of robbers.
"NATURE," fays Pliny, "has taken iſlands from thẹ fẹa,
"and joined them to the continent; from Miletus, Dromifcos
"and Perne; and Hybanda, once an iſland of Ionia, is now
“two hundred ſtadia, twenty five miles, from the coaft." Na-
ture in this diſtrict was the Meander, and the iſlands here ſpe-
cified are perhaps the rocks of Oſebaſhá, The river has been,
as it were, the parent of its own bed.
THE bay, on which Myûs was once feated, changed into a
lake; when the Mæander, by lodging flime at the mouth, had
cut off the ingrefs of the falt-water. The mountains were an
obftacle, or the whole recefs would have been filled and converted
into a plain. Their rills alſo ſupplied the freſh water, which
generated the gnats. The land grew, as it were, daily, and was
continually removing the fea farther from the lake. The mouth
of the Mæander was then feen between Miletus and Priene; and
this city had a wide plain before it. Afterwards it approached
within ten ſtadia or a mile and a quarter of Miletus; and the
bays above that city were rendered firm ground. The traveller,
who ſhall ride along the foot of mount Latmus, eastward from
Miletus, will, I doubt not, diſcover the fite of Heraclea; and
the rivulet may direct him even now to the cave of Endymion.
Pyrrha has been mentioned as within land. The ſpace between
Priene and Miletus was added, in no long time, to the continent.
The ports of this city ceaſed to be navigable; and, by degrees,
Lade
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
179
}
T
Lade and Afteria, and the iſlets near them, were encircled with
foil. Before this happened, the water-courfe of Priene entered
the fea, feparate from the Mæander.
MILETUS, deprived by the Mæander of the principal advan-
tages of its fituation, experienced, with the cities its neighbours,
a gradual decay, which will end in total extinction, as it were,
by a natural death after a lingering illneſs. The progreſs of the
changes, as might be expected, were unattended to in the bar-
barous ages, as not fudden; or unnoticed, as not important.
But we are informed, that a place by the fhore, where the river
in the ninth century entered the fea, was called The Gardens; and
that the Greek emperor Manuel, finding the region well watered
and beautiful to the eye, refolved to refreſh his army there, and
to forget the toils of war in the pleaſures of the chace.
FROM the alterations already effected, we may infer, that the
Mæander will ſtill continue to encroach; that the recent earth,
now ſoft, will harden, and the preſent marſhes be dry. The
ſhore will in time protrude ſo far, that the promontories, which
now ſhelter it, will be feen inland. It will unite with Samos,
and in a ſeries of years extend to remoter iſlands, if the ſoil,
while freſh and yielding, be not carried away by ſome current
ſetting without the mountains. If this happen, it will be diſ-
tributed along the coaſt, or wafted elſewhere in the tide, and
form new plains. Some barren rock of the adjacent deep may
be enriched with a fertile domain, and other cities rife and flou-
riſh from the bounty of the Mæander.
Z 2
CHAP.
2
180
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
3
氰
​<
ક્
k
#
{
I
CHA P. LIV.
Enter Caria At Ghauzocleu Booths of the Turcomans
Iafus Remains of the city---The Sepulchres --- Inſcriptions
Iafian marbles at Scio ---Journey continued.
A 3
-
IN a preceding chapter we conducted the reader from the
promontory Pofidium and the temple of Apollo, to the confines
of Ionia and Caria. We fhall now purſue our journey over the
Carian mountains.
A
L
WE afcended mount Grium, and defcended by a difficult
winding track. About five in the evening we arrived at Ghau-
zocleu, a village fronting a pleaſant bay, which is land-locked
by the mountain. The fituation is romantic, amid naked rocks,
pine and olive-trees, the latter then laden with black fruit.
Under the trees were feveral wells, and women paffing to and
fro with their faces muffled. Some children, who were gathered
about a fire, on ſeeing us, ran away. The aga entertained us
very hoſpitably. We fate on a carpet after the Turkiſh faſhion
croſs-legged, the table a large falver, on which the diſhes were
placed one at a time, and removed, in quick fucceffion. We had
been expoſed this day, without any ſhelter, to the ſun. An acci-
dental fire had fcorched the bushes by the way, and deſtroyed
their leaves, and the ground was bare and parched.
We were on horſeback again at ſeven in the morning, and
after a few minutes in a beautiful plain covered with vines. Some
houſes were difperfed in it. We then paffed over huge moun-
tains, branches of Grium, clothed with pines; and by immenfe
precipices. The fire had laid wafte large tracts. At ten minutes
after ten we had in view feveral fine bays, and a plain full of
booths, with the Turcomans fitting by the doors, under fheds´
reſembling
•
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
18.1
refembling porticoes; or by fhady trees, furrounded with flocks
of goats. We turned to the right, and riding by a well in the
plain, and then along the fhore, arrived at Iafus, now called
Affyn-kalefi.
THE Iafians, a colony of Argives, and afterwards of Mile-
fians, inhabited a rocky iflet lying near the continent, to which
it is now united by a ſmall ifthmus. The city was only ten ſtadia
or a mile and a quarter in circumference. It had a port, and was
maintained by the ſea, which abounded in fiſh; its territory be-
ing rough and barren. Several ſtories were current, of their ea-
gerness to purchaſe that article, and one is recorded. A citharift
or harper was diſplaying his ſkill, and the Iafians were very at-
tentive, until a fale of fiſh was announced by the found of a bell.
Immediately they all hurried away, except one perfon, who was
hard of hearing. Sir, fays the artiſt to him, I am indeed infi-
nitely obliged to you for the honour you do me, and for your love
of harmony. Every body befides left me on the ringing of the
bell. How! he replied, has the bell rung? then, fir, your
fervant.
THE north fide of the rock of Iafus is abrupt and inacceffible.
The fummit is occupied by a mean but extenfive fortreſs. At
the foot is a ſmall portion of flat ground. On that and on the
acclivities, the houſes once ftood, within a narrow compafs,
bounded by the city-wall, which was regular, folid, and hand-
fome. This, which has been repaired in many places, now in-
cloſes rubbiſh, with remnants of ordinary buildings, and a few
pieces of marble. Single pinks, with jonquils, grew among the
thickets of maſtic; and we fprung fome large covies of par-
tridges, which feed on the berries. In the fide of the rock is the
theatre, fronting 60m east of north, with many rows of feats
remaining, but covered with foil or enveloped in buſhes. On the
left wing is an inſcription in very large and well-formed charac-
ters ranging in a long line, and recording certain donations to
Bacchus
t
182 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
Bacchus and the people. Beneath, near the bottom, are feveral
ftones infcribed, but not legible. By the Ifthmus is the vaulted
fubftruction of a confiderable edifice; and on a jamb of the door-
way are decrees engraved in a fair character, but damaged, and
black with ſmoke; the entrance, which is leffened by a pile of
ftones, ferving as a chimney to a few Greeks, who inhabit the
ruin. Oppofite to the Ifthmus is a flat point running out into the
fea, with a ſmall ſquare fort at the extremity.
THE fepulchres of the Iafians on the continent are very nu-
merous, ranging along above a mile on the flope of the moun→
tain. They are built with a flaty ftone, and perhaps were white-
waſhed, as their aſpect is now mean. They confiſt moſtly of a
fingle camera or vault; but one has a wall before it, and three
chambers, which have been painted. Many of them have a ſmall
ſquare ftone over the entrance, inſcribed, but no longer legible.
In examining theſe, I found half of an inſcription, which was
copied in 1673, and has been publiſhed incorrectly. This rem-
nant was in a fair character, on a marble lying on the rock. Be-
low the fepulchres are broken arches, and pieces of wall, among
which is a maffive farcophagus or two ſtanding on their baſe-
ments.
A marble by the Ifthmus records an Iafian, who was victo-
rious at Olympia, and the firſt conqueror in the Capitoline games
at Rome. We found there likewiſe a piece of inſcribed archi-
trave, on which, when more entire, a ſtoa or portico, and Diana
Civica or the tutelary Goddeſs of the city, were mentioned. By
a wall, which feemed the remnant of a fepulchre, is a long in-
ſcription cloſely, but handfomely engraved on a flab of white
marble, in which the theatre is mentioned, with the Prytanéum,
and the temples of Jupiter and Diana. While I was copying it,
a Greek prieſt came, and diſplaced me ſomewhat roughly. I was
then informed that was a church; and the ſtone, the holy Table.
I had given offence by fitting on it. The prieſt was wretchedly
ignorant,
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
183
ignorant, and among his other abfurdities, told me they had a
tradition, that at the laſt day St. Paul will rife there, fhewing the
place with his foot.
A Polacca from the iſland of Stanchio was at anchor in the
bay, with ſome ſmall-craft, which lade with tobacco, figs, and
cotton, the produce of the country. Theſe veſſels often carry
ftones away for ballaft. We had paid a piafter at Scio for leave
to tranſcribe three marbles, which lay on the fhore, and were
tranſported from this place. They contained honorary decrees,
made by the Iafians. One is of the age of Alexander the Great,
and remarkable for the extreme beauty of the characters, which
were as finely deſigned and cut as any I ever faw. Theſe ftones
were part of a ſquare pilafter before the fenate-houſe.
ON our arrival here, a Greek, who lived in the ruin of a
large fepulchre by the Ifthmus, declared he was commanded to
fuffer nobody to enter Affyn-kalefi without a written order from
the Aga of Melaffo, to whoſe diſtrict the caſtle belonged. We
offered to purchaſe his permiffion, but in vain. He knew we
were going to that city, and was afraid to accept a bribe. After
a ſhort ſtay, finding him inflexible, we continued our journey,
intending to return in a few days, as we did, with authority.
This fepulchre was then our abode, and we lay in it, covering,
with the Greek family, the whole floor. We were guarded by
two large and fierce dogs, which were continually in motion
round about, barking furiouſly at the jackalls, and then looking
in upon us, with an attention as remarkable as friendly and
agreeable.
CHAP.
184 TRAVELS MINOR.
IN ASIA
&
IN ASIA CHA P. LV.
Increaſe of land ---Hillock in a plain ---Booths of the Turcomans
Site of Bargylia Of Kindye - Of Caryanda ---- Arrive
at Mylafa --- The Turkish play of the Farrit Our vifit to the
Aga.
THE frequent acceffions of new land along the coaſt of Aſia
Minor will often perplex the claffical traveller, eſpecially if not
aware of the alteration; and will render him fufpicious of the
antient geographers, whom he confults, as of falſe guides, on
whom he cannot depend. The cities Iafus and Bargylia were
fituated in the recefs of the fame bay, which was called the
Iafian, or, more commonly the Bargylietic; yet I enquired for
the latter, as a place on the coaft, without obtaining any infor-
mation.
}
WE croffed the plain from Iafus at half an hour after one, and
aſcended a very high mountain, and at a quarter before three had
in view beneath us an extenfive plain, in which was a Turkiſh
village; and at the mountain-foot, a lake, which communicated
with one oppofite; and that, with the bay of Iafus. Within,
was a hillock, reſembling one of the rocks by Oſebaſhá, with
ruins on it.
WE led our horfes down the mountain by a fteep track, on
the left hand, into a field, in which the ſtalks of Turkey wheat
were ſtanding; and leaying behind us the diftant fummits of
mount Titanus, came, at twenty minutes after three, to a level
green occupied by Turcomans. Their flocks and cattle were
feeding round the ſcattered booths; and cotton recently gather-
ed from the pods, was expoſed on the ground to dry, or on the
tops of the ſheds, which are flat and covered with boughs. Be-
yond
>
TRAVELS
IN ASIA MINOR. 185
yond theſe we paffed a wide water-courſe; and had the hillock
again in view through an opening on the right hand.
I wiſh to have my omiffions fupplied as well as my errors cor-
rected, and therefore recommend this hillock to the notice of
future travellers into theſe countries. I have no doubt, but there
was the fite of Bargylia, and there a recefs of the bay, fince con-
verted into a plain, which is almoſt incloſed with mountains.
THE Iafians had a famous ſtatue of Veſta, which, it was the
general belief, neither rain nor hail would touch, though ſtand-
ing in the open air. A temple of Diana near Bargylia was
ſuppoſed to be diſtinguiſhed and treated with like reverence by
ſhowers or falling fnow. It was at a place named Kindye.
AFTER Bargylia on the coaft was Myndus and Halicarnaffus;
and between Bargylia and Myndus was the lake Caryanda, with
an iſland in it and a town, the birth-place of Scylax, a very an-
tient geographer. The traveller, who fhall examine the coaſt of
Caria, will diſcover Caryanda, it is believed, encompaſſed in like
manner with Bargylia, and in a plain.
THREE inland cities of Caria are recorded as worthy notice,
Mylaſa, Stratonicea, and Alabanda. Our road to the former place
lay now between mountains, branches of Grium; and cultivated
vales. The fun had ſet when we arrived, and the khan was ſhut. A
Swifs, who has been mentioned more than once, happened to be
there, and looking out at a window, ſaw our hats; and ſome Greek
or Armenian merchants of Smyrna, whom he informed that we
were Franks, prevailed on the keeper to open the gate, though the
khan was full. The Swifs had been in London, and had ferved
in an English privateer in the war with France. He was now,
after many adventures, with an Hungarian, an itinerant quack-
doctor. The Bazar or market was cloſed, and we were diftreffed
for food. He preſently killed and dreffed for us a couple of fowls,
and
A a
+
186
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
+
and the merchants permitted us to partake of their apartment,
in which we all flept on the floor, as many as it could contain. ›
THE merchants had free access to the Aga as traders, and the
Hungarian, as his phyfician. We delivered to them the letter
from the Aga of Suki, to be prefented to him, and in the morn
ing went to pay our vifit. He was fond of the national and war-
like diverſion called the farrit, and we found him, though in á
bad ſtate of health, engaged in this violent exerciſe, with feye-
ral Turks of diſtinction, in a large area or court before his houſe.
The beauty and tractability of the horſes, which had very rich
trappings, was as furprizing as the agility and addreſs of the
riders. They were gallopping from all fides at once with a con-
fuſed regularity; throwing at each other the Jarrit, or blunted
Dart; and recovering it from the ground, at full ſpeed, with
amazing dexterity. The mufic founded, and acclamations, when
any one excelled, filled the air.
1
WE waited in a gallery with the Hungarian and other fpec-
tators, until the game ended. We were then introduced intò à
fpatious apartment, with a fopha, on which the Aga was fitting,
cross-legged, the Mufti and a Turk or two on his right hand,
his officers and attendants ſtanding in a row, filent and refpectful.
He was a comely perſon with a black beard. We made our obei-
fance, as ufual, putting the right hand to the left breaſt, and
inclining the head; and taking our places on the fopha, pro-
duced our firhman. The Aga on receiving it, kiffed and laid it
to his forehead, and then gave it to be read. We were enter-
tained, each with a pipe ready lighted, a ſpoonful of fweet-meat
put into our mouths, and a cup of coffee; after which we re-
tired with full permiffion to employ our time at Mylafa as we
pleaſed.
A
CHAP.
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 187
>
t
CHAP. LVI.
Of Mylafa---The temple of Auguftus---A column---Of Euthydemus
An arch or gate-way Other remains A fepulchre
One cut in the rock --- Temples of Jupiter ---Of the double-
hatchet.
$
MYLASA or Mylaffa was the capital of Hecatomnus, king
of Cària, and father of Maufolus. It has been defcribed as
fituated by a very fertile plain, with a mountain riſing above it,
in which was a quarry of very fine white marble. This, being
near, was exceedingly convenient in building, and had contri-
buted greatly to the beauty of the city, which, it is ſaid, if any,
was handfomely adorned with public edifices, with ftoas or por
ticoes and temples. The latter were fo numerous, that a certain
muſician entering the agora or market-place, as if to make pro-
clamation, began, inftead of (Ansile Aao) Hear ye People, with
(Axle Nao) Hear ye Temples. The founders of the city were
cenfured as inconfiderate in placing it beneath a fteep precipice,
by which it was commanded. Under the Romans, it was
a free city. Its diſtance from the fea, where neareſt, or from
Phyfcus oppofite the island of Rhodes, was eighty ftadia or ten
miles. It is commonly called Melaffo, and is ftill a large place.
The houſes are numerous, but chiefly of plafter and mean, with
trees interſperſed. The air is accounted bad; and ſcorpións
abound as antiently; entering often at the doors and windows,
and lurking in the rooms. The plain is furrounded by lofty
mountains, and cultivated; but was now parched and bare, ex-
cept ſome ſpots green with the tobacco plant, which was in
flower, and pleafing to the eye.
OUR firſt enquiry was for the temple, erected, about twelve
years before the chriſtian æra, by the people of Mylafa to
A a 2
Auguftus
188
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
4
Auguftus and the goddeſs Rome; which was ſtanding not many
years ago. We were fhown the baſement, which remains; and
were informed, the ruin had been demoliſhed, and a new mofque,`
which we ſaw on the mountain-fide, above the town, raifed
with the marble. The houfe of a Turk occupying the fite, we
employed the Hungarian to treat with him for admiffion; but
he affirmed we could fee nothing; and added, that there was his
Harám or the apartment of his women, which was an obftacle
not to be furmounted. It had fix columns in front, and the
whole number had been twenty two.
On the hill, and not far from the baſement of the temple, is
a column, of the Corinthian order, ftanding, with a flat-roofed
cottage, upon a piece of folid wall. It has fupported a ſtatue;
and on the ſhaft is an infcription. "The people have erected
88
Menander, fon of Ouliades, fon of Euthydemus, a benefac-
"tor to his country, and defcended from benefactors." The
Turk, who lived in the cottage, readily permitted a ladder to
be placed on the terrace for meaſuring the capital, which was
done as expeditiously as poffible, but not before we were in-
formed, that ſeveral of the inhabitants murmured, becauſe their
houſes were overlooked. Befides this, two fluted columns, of
the Ionic order, remained not many years. fince.
EUTHYDEMUS, the anceſtor of Menander, was contemporary
with Auguftus Cæfar. He was of an illuftrious family, and
poffeffed an ample patrimony. He was eloquent, and not only
great in his own country, but refpected as the first perfon of
Afia Minor. His power was fo advantageous to the city, that,
if it favoured of tyranny, the odium was overcome by its uti-
lity. Hybreas concluded an oration, with telling him, he was,
a neceffary evil. This demagogue, who fucceeded Euthydemus,
had inherited only a mule and its driver, employed then, as
many now are, in bringing wood from the mountains for fale.
4
>
+
BENEATH
TRAVELS IN ASIA
ASIA MINOR.
189
BENEATH the hill, on the eaſt fide of the town, is an arch
or gate-way of marble, of the Corinthian order.
On the key-
ftone of the exterior front, which is eastward, we obferved a
double-hatchet, as on the two marbles near Myûs. It was
with difficulty we procured ladders to reach the top; and
fome were broken, before we could find three fufficiently long
and ſtrong for our purpoſe. The going up, when theſe were
united, was not without danger. The aga had expreffed fome
wonder at our employment, as deſcribed to him; and feeing one
of my companions on the arch, from a window of his houfe,
which was oppofite, pronounced him, as we were told, a brave
fellow, but without brains. We deſired him to accept our um-
brella, on his fending to purchaſe it for a preſent to a lady of his
Harám, who was going into the country. By the arch was a
fountain, to which women came with earthen pitchers for water,
and with their faces muffled.
WE faw a broad marble pavement, with veftiges of a theatre,
near the Corinthian column. Toward the centre of the town,
we obferved a ſmall pool of water, and by it the maffive arches of
ſome public edifice. In the court of the aga's houſe, was an
altar much ornamented. We found an altar likewife in the
ftreets, and a pedeſtal or two half buried, with pieces of antient
wall. Round the town are ranges of broken columns, the rem-
nants of porticoes, now, with rubbiſh, bounding the vineyards.
A large portion of the plain is covered with ſcattered fragments,
and with piers of ordinary aquæducts; befides infcriptions,
moftly ruined and illegible. Some altars, dedicated to Heca-
tomnus, have been difcovered.
ABOUT a quarter of a mile from the town is a fepulchre,
of the ſpecies called by the antients, Diftaga or Double-roofed.
It confifted of two ſquare rooms. In the lower, which has a
› See a fimilar edifice in Mountfaucon. t. 5. Tab. 27.
door-way,
190 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR,
door-way, were depofited the urns with the afhes of the de--
ceafed. In the upper, the relations and friends folemnized the
anniverſary of the funeral, and performed ſtated rites. A hole
made through the floor was defigned for pouring libations of
honey, milk, or wine, with which it was uſual to gratify the
manes or fpirits. The roof is remarkable for its conftruction,
but two ſtones are wanting, and ſome diſtorted. It is fupported
by pillars of the Corinthian order, fluted, fome of which have
fuffered from violence, being hewn near the baſes, with a view
to deſtroy the fabric for the iron and materials. The shafts are
not circular, but elliptical'; and in the angular columns fquare.
The reaſon is, the fides, which are now open, were cloſed with
marble pannels; and that form was neceffary to give them, a due
projection. The infide has been painted blue. This ſtructure
is the firſt object, as you approach from Iafus, and ſtands by the
road. The entrance was on the farther fide, the afcent to it..
probably by a pair of ſteps, occafionally applied and removed.
GOING down from this building, and turning from Mylaſa,
weftward, you have the mountain on the right hand; and come,
in about an hour, to another fepulchre. This is cut in the
rock, high up in the fide, near the top, and difficult of accefs.
Within the door-way on each fide is a feat or bench; on which,
it is likely, the urns were placed; and beyond is a fmaller camera
or arched room. Over the entrance, without, is carved in baffo
relievo a facade; two Tufcan pillars between two pilafters,
with an entablature and pediment, and a door. The flope of
the mountain has been covered with innumerable fepulchres.
In this, the Swifs, as he told us, had perfevered, digging for
three nights, hoping to find fome hidden treaſure.
JUPITER, called by a local name, Hofogo or Hogoas,
had in the city a temple, in which was a well of fea-water.
1 See a column defcribed as fingular by Tournefort. p. 339. See Pocock.
p. 56.
Jupiter,
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 191.
Jupiter, ftiled Carius, had alſo a temple, which was common
to the Carians, and Lydians, and Myfians, as the fame people.
This was not in the town, but had once a village near it. On
a ſteep abrupt rock, in fight from Mylafa, fouthward, and dif-
tant an hour and three quarters, croffing the plain, is a ruined
town called Paitſhin, and a caftle, which was repaired, as a
ftrong-hold againſt Soley Bey, and ſtill had in it a few cannon.
Part of the wall of this fortrefs ftands on a flight of marble
ſteps, which probably have belonged to the latter temple. Near
it are many deferted mofques and buildings, and a ruined church
ftill uſed by the Greeks. The fite of the former temple might
perhaps be diſcovered, if diligent enquiry were made in the
town for its well.
2
THE Mylafians were the proprietors of the famous Jupiter
of Labranda. The gate-way, on which his fymbol, a double-
hatchet, is carved, was probably that leading to his temple,
which was at a diſtance from the city. The god often occurs
on medals, holding the hatchet. Hercules, it is related, killed
the Amazon Hippolyte, and gave this, her weapon, to Om-
phale, queen of Lydia. From her it defcended to the kings
her fucceffors, and was uſed as an enfign of royalty. Candaules
delivered it, to be carried by one of his officers. Arfelis, with
auxiliaries from Mylafa, joining Gyges, when he revolted, flew
Candaules and the hatchet-bearer, and returned into Caria laden
with fpoils. He made a ftatue of Jupiter, and placed the
hatchet in his hand.
•
CHAP.
192
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
9
好
​To Efki-hilfar
CHA P. LVII.
*
+
Remains of Stratonicea --- Its hiftory Mount
Taurus Temples of Hecate and Jupiter Infcriptions
Introduction of tobacco and coffee into Turkey --- Anſwer to
a query.
S
THE merchants preparing to leave Mylafa, and telling us,
we ſhould find ruins at Eſki-hiffar, where they ſhould ſtop next,
we agreed to accompany them to that place, diftant fix hours
eaſtward. We croffed the plain, with a long train of mules
carrying their goods and fervants, and afcended a mountain of
veined marble, when the track became very ſteep and rough,
winding by vaft precipices. The flopes were covered with large
pines, many ſcorched or fallen, and fome then on fire. The
conflagration, we have before mentioned, had extended far into
the country, ſpreading wide, as driven on and directed by the
wind. About mid-way we alighted to refreſh, near a clear
murmuring brook ſhaded by pines and plane-trees. In the vales
farther on, were ftalks of Turkey wheat, with camels feeding;
and booths of the Turcomans. A fhepherd, whom we met in
a narrow pafs, was armed and followed by two dogs, and theſe
by his flock. We faw fome of the Turcomans, the women
with boots on, and one carrying a gun; and their children lead-
ing camels. After travelling an hour and an half, Mylaſa bore
north-weſt; and on our return, we had the plain in view in
about four hours.
ESKI-HISSAR, once Stratonicea, is a ſmall village; the
houſes ſcattered among woody hills, environed by huge moun-
tains; one of which, toward the ſouth-weſt, has its ſummit as
white as chalk. It is watered by a limpid and lively rill, with
cafcades. The fite is ftrewed with marble fragments. Some
ſhafts
f
}
{
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
193
*
t
ſhafts of columns are ſtanding, fingle; and one with the capital
on it. By a cottage we found two, with a pilafter, ſupporting
an entablature, but enveloped in thick vines and trees. In the
fide of a hill is a theatre, with the feats and ruins of the profce-·
nium, among which are pedeſtals of ftatues; one infcribed, and
recording a citizen of great merit and magnificence. Above it
is a marble heap; and the whole building is overgrown with
mofs, buſhes, and trees. Without the village, on the oppofite
fide, are broken arches, with pieces of maffy wall, and farco-
phagi. One of theſe is very large, and double, or intended for
two bodies. Several altars with infcriptions remain, once placed
in' the fepulchres. The inhabitants were very civil to us; and
the Greeks, ſome of whom went about with us, as inquifitive
as ignorant.
STRATONICEA was a colony of Macedonians, and named
from Stratonice, the wife of Antiochus Soter. The Seleucidæ
or kings had adorned it with ſumptuous ſtructures; and it was
a free city under the Romans. Hadrian is faid to have re-edi-
fied and named it Hadrianopolis; and the remnants of archi-
tecture in general favoured of this emperor and of Antoninus,
whoſe name occurred on a piece of architrave, much more
than of the purer æra of the Seleucidæ.
THE mountains round about Stratonicea are branches of
Taurus, which beginning in Caria and Lycia, and becoming
exceedingly wide and lofty, extends eastward from the coaft op-
pofite Rhodes, to the extremities of India and Scythia, dividing
the continent of Afia into two parts.
ſpreads in Caria to the river Mæander.
mentioned a ſmall town is on record,
Taurus.
The fame mountain
Befides the city above
called Stratonicea by
THE Stratonicéans had two temples in their territory; one
of Hecate, at Lagina in the way to Ephefus from Phyfcus,
very famous, and visited by multitudes of people at the yearly
B b
> >
congreffes;
}
>
J
194
TRAVELS. IN ASIA MINOR.
congreffes; the other of Jupiter, ftiled Chryfaórens or with the
golden fword, which was near the city, and common to all the
Çarians; who, as well as the Ionians, met at ftated times to fa»
crifice, and to deliberate on their affairs. This affémbly was
named the Chryfaórean fyftem or body, and was compofed of
villages; the greater number giving the cities, to which they
belonged, precedence in voting. The Stratonicéans, when the
fanctuaries were reformed under Tiberius Cæfar, produced. be
fore the Roman fenate, by their deputies, the decrees of Julius
and Auguftus Cæfar, confirming to Jupiter and Hecate their
privilege of aſylum.
ut
I
+
ג
*
J
WE found Jupiter Chryfaóreus mentioned twice on one
ſtone; and in the wall of a fpatious court before the houfe of
the aga was an infcription relating to both deities. The
preamble declares, that the city in many great and lafting
dangers had been preſerved by thefe its tutelar gods; that their
ſtatues in the fenate-houſe furnished the moft glaring evidence
of their divine power, and of their prefence; that crouds facri-
ficed and burned incenfe before them, fupplicating or returning
thanks, and teſtifying their religious veneration of them; the
fenate therefore decrees, that thirty boys, of good families, be
chofen to go daily two and two in proceffion, with their gover
nors, to the fenate-houſe, all dreffed in white, crowned with
olive, and bearing each a branch in their hands, with the citha-
rîſt and herald, to fing a hymn, to be compoſed by Sofander.
The ſtone is in two pieces, the characters large, with ligatures
intermixed, and of a late age. In the fame wall were other
infcribed fragments; and near it an altar, and many marbles
emboffed with round fhields. This aga was polite and affable
beyond any Turk we had feen. His Harám was impene-
trable, or, as we were told, would have afforded us feveral
inſcriptions.
! See Chifhull.
ས
•
WE
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 195
+
}
t
›
We have mentioned the tobacco-plant, as growing in the
plain of Mylafa. Here the leaves were now gathered, and
hanging in ftrings againſt the walls of the cottages to dry. The
uſe of it and of coffee has been prohibited under fome Sultans.
The fmoking it, now fo univerfal, was in 1610 a novel practice
even at Conftantinople'; where a Turk had been recently led
about the ſtreets in derifion, with a pipe thruſt through his noſe,
as a puniſhment, to deter others from following his example.
The Turks were then ftrangers to the plant, and content to
purchafe the refufe of the Engliſh market, not underſtanding
the commodity. The knowlege of coffee and of its virtues was
imported from Arabia; and by the Turkish account, the first
coffee-houſe was eftablifhed at Conftantinople in 1554.
FROM the traveller, who has remarked the inexperience of
the Turks in the American weed, we learn, that the Engliſh
were then unacquainted with the oriental berry. He defcribes
the Turks as fitting in houfes reſembling taverns, fipping a drink
called coffa, in little china diſhes, as hot as they could endure,
black as foot, and tafting not much unlike it. To this defcrip-
tion of coffee he fubjoins, "Why not the black broth of
"the Lacedæmonians ?" a queftion, I believe, hitherto unan-
fwered. I fhall reply to it, that for making their black broth,
the cook was furnifhed with falt and vinegar, and bid tó pro-
cure what was wanting from a victim. This, it has been còn-
jectured, was blood. The epicure will not lament, that the
entire recipe has not reached us.
}
Τ
Sandys.
t
"
Bb 2
CHAP.
196 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
*
ilton dopridet
{
4
CHA P. LVIII.
F
事
​From Mylafa to Iafus To Mendelet
A temple --- An antient
town---Of Labranda and the temple of Jupiter ---Infcriptions
The mountain Re-enter Ionia.
3
2
THE month of October was now almoft at an end. The
nights, to which our men were often expofed, without any
cover, grew cold; and our Janizary was ill.
and our Janizary was ill. We found it ne-
ceffary to haften to our winter quarters. We engaged the Swifs,
whom we met at Mylafa on our return to the khan, in our fer-
vice; pleaſed with his activity and intrepidity; and purchaſed a
horſe to carry him. We paffed the firſt night, after leaving
Mylafa, in the fepulchre at Iafus.
On the way from Iafus to Mendelet, which is diſtant four
hours, and three from Mylafa, we left the level green, with the
booths of the Turcomans mentioned before, on our right hand;
and riding northward, through ſtubble of Turkey wheat, came
in an hour to a beautiful and extenfive plain covered with vines
olive and fig-trees, and flocks and herds feeding; and ſkirted by
mountains with villages. We croffed it by a winding road, with
the country-houfe of the aga of Mylafa on our right hand; and
paffing a village called Iakli, unexpectedly diſcovered the folemn
ruin of a temple; but, as it was dusk, we continued our jour-
ney to Mendelet, which was an hour farther on. The mer-
chants, our late companions, had given us a letter to fome Ar-
menians, who kindly admitted us to partake in their apartment
in the khan.
WE returned in the morning to the ruin. The temple was
of the Corinthian order, fixteen columns, with part of their en-
tablature
+
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
197
1
tablature ſtanding; the cell and roof demoliſhed. It is in a nook
or recefs; the front, which is toward the eaſt, cloſe by the
mountain-foot; the back and one fide overlooking the plain. The
ſtile of the architecture is noble, and made us regret, that fome
members, and, in particular, the angle of the cornice, were want-
ing. Its marbles have been melted away, as it were piece-meal,
in the furnaces for making lime, which are ſtill in ufe, cloſe by
the ruin.
་
A town has ranged with the temple on the north. The wall
beginning near it, makes a circuit on the hill, and defcends on
the fide toward Mendelet. The thickets, which have overrun
the fite, are almoft impenetrable, and prevented my purfuing it
to the top, but the lower portion may eaſily be traced. It had
fquare towers at intervals, and was of a fimilar conſtruction with
the wall at Ephefus. Within it, is a theatre cut in the rock, with
fome feats remaining. In the vineyards beneath are broken co-
lumns and marble fragments; and in one, behind the temple,
two maffy farcophagi carved with feftoons and heads; the lids
on, and a hole made by force in their fides. They are raiſed on
a pediment, and, as you approach, appear like two piers of a
gate-way. Beyond the temple are alſo ſome ruins of fepulchres.
I was much diſappointed in finding no infcriptions to inform us
of the name of this deſerted place; which from its poſition on a
mountain by the way-fide, and its diſtance from Mylafa, I am
inclined to believe was Labranda,
LABRANDA, according to Strabo, was a village feated on a
mountain in the road from Alabanda to Mylafa. The temple
was antient, and the image of wood. This was ſtiled The Mili-
tary Jupiter, and was worſhipped by the people all around. The
way was paved near fixty eight ftadia' or eight miles and a half,
1 Ælian 1. xã. c. 30. makes the diſtance of the temple 70 ftadia or eight miles and
three quarters; and relates that in it was a clear fountain with tame fiſh, which wore
golden necklaces and ear-rings.
as
}
198
MINOR.
TRAVELS IN ASIA
*
as far as Mylafa, and called Sacred from the victims and pro-
ceffions, which paffed on it. The priesthood of the temple was
conferred on the moſt illuftrious of the citizens, and was an office
held for life.
3 敏
​THE ruin of this temple co-incides with the defcription of it
given by the geographer. The fabric tottering with age was, it
ſeems, after his time gradually renewed, and chiefly by the con-
tributions of the Stephanephori, or high priefts. For on feven
columns is an inſcription, which may be thus tranflated, "Leo
Quintus, fon of Leo, when Stephanephorus, gave this column,
"as he had promiſed, with the baſe and capital." And the fol-
lowing infcription is repeated on five or more of the columns,
with ſome variation as to the length of the lines, and the liga-
tures of the letters "Menecrates, fon of Menecrates, chief phy-
fician of the city, when Stephanephorus, gave this column,
"with the baſe and capital; Tryphæna his daughter, herfelf
likewife Stephanephorus and Gymnafiarch, having provided
"it." From the form of certain characters in the latter infcrip-
tions, it may be inferred, that Leo was the earlier benefactor.
WE were vifited here every evening by a flock of goats and their
keeper. I afcended the acclivity of the mountain by the temple, and
from the fummit had an extenfive view of the plain toward My-
lafa. It was green with the cotton-plant and with vines. I would
have tarried to enjoy this profpect, which was delicious, but was
much annoyed with thick ſmoke; a fire, either accidental, or
defigned to confume the herbage, fpreading along the fide of the
mountain, crackling, and feeming to threaten, unless I haſtened
away, to intercept my retreat.
A
WHEN the Carians and Ionians revolted from Darius, they
retired after a defeat by the river Marfyas to Labranda, to the
large and holy grove of plane-trees, where they were joined by
other troops and by the Mileſians. The diftance between Men-
delet
TRAVELS
199
IN ASIA MINOR.
delet and Miletus is reckoned nine hours. On the way thither
we discovered Myûs as has been related. Our courfe from Men-
delet was twenty five minutes north of weft, with the fummits
of Titanus in view before us. We alighted after two hours, it
being dufk, at Tarifmanlá, a village near the end of the plain,
and waited beneath fome. trees until our men could procure us a
place to lodge in, when a fudden gust of wind carried away one
of our hats into a deep well. In the morning we aſcended the
mountain by a winding track ſhaded with pines, myrtle and fra→
grant fhrubs. We enjoyed on it a fine view of the plain, which
we then left in our rear. The road was rough and narrow fo
Bafi, where we arrived in an hour. Beyond it we paffed an old
caſtle on a hill, and ſoon after had the lake with Ufa Bafi or Myûs
in fight.. The reader may recollect that we found near this city,
marbles, which mention Jupiter of Labranda. Our journey from
thence to Miletus has been already related.
;
CHA P. LIX.
Leave Myús- The mountain by Mendelet - Sources of a river
At Carpufeli - Sepulchres and a ſtadium Other remains
Alabanda The Harpafus - The Maander.
THE merchants, to whom we were recommended at Men-
delet, informed us that Carpufeli was a place which afforded
many antiquities. In our fecond tour we agreed to go thither
from Myus. We fet out on the eighteenth of April in the even-
ing, and, after riding an hour and a half by the head of the lake,
pitched our tent for the night under a fpreading tree by a ſtream.
Here we were ferenaded in a diſagreeable manner; frogs croak-
ing, as it were, in chorus; owls hooting jackalls in troops
howling; and the village-dogs barking.
A
IN
200
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
13
In the morning we again entered the plain mentioned in the
preceding chapter; and croffing it near the end, came to the foot.
of the mountain, and began afcending with Mendelet on our
right hand; the track, as may be conjectured, that once leading
from Alabanda by Labranda to Mylafa. It winded northward
by a ſmall river with fish, the water forming cafcades, and turn-
ing an over-fhot mill or two in its way down to the lake. We
had remarked fome mountains as confifting of variegated marble;
this feemed entirely fpar, the duft fhining as filver. On the fides
are furnaces for working iron. Near the top we found a Turk
fitting on the ground, while his horfe was feeding, by a ſpring,
under a tree.
f
IN deſcending on the oppofite fide of the mountain, we paffed
ſome Turkiſh graves, which had each a bough of myrtle ſtuck
at the head and feet. Beyond theſe were the fources of a river,
probably that once called the Harpafus, pellucid, and many in
number. We pitched our tent on a brow by a Turkiſh village,
after a very laborious ride of ten hours.
We were on horſeback again between fix and ſeven in the
morning, and travelled eastward, the road good, the flopes co-
vered with pines. The fprings, which we ſaw the day before,
had now united into a rapid tranſparent ſtream, abounding in
fiſh. Our courſe lying to the fouth-east, we croffed it, and on
the way met a Turk, a perſon of diſtinction, as appeared from
his turban. He was on horfeback with a ſingle attendant. Our
janizary and Armenians refpectfully alighted, and made him a
profound obeisance, the former kiffing the rim of his garment.
He aſked fome queſtions, and went on. We arrived about noon
at Carpuſeli, a village twelve hours north of Mylafa.
1
As we approached this place many antient graves occurred,
cut on rocks as at Myûs, and reaching over a tract of confider-
able extent. Among theſe are fome farcophagi, moſtly plain or
without
#
*
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
201
1
A
without mouldings, of a brown coarſe ſtone, with holes broke
in the fides. We rode by theſe, and through a ruined ſtadium
now the bazar or market, the way lying between the ſhops,
which formed a ſtreet. We pitched our tent farther on, near the
ſquare baſement of a large fepulchre, of handſome ſolid ma-
ſonry, and inhabited; ſtanding not far from one fide of the city-
wall, which may be traced, except toward the plain, and was
of the mafonry termed pfeudifodomum. Some Turks came to
us here, and one defired wine. He took his turban from his
head, kiffed, and laid it afide; and after drinking, replaced it
with the fame ceremony.
WE afcended the mountain by a way paved, but rough and
flipperys - The remains; which we had ſeen from below, were a
'terraceswall with a fquare area and veftiges of a colonnade. Many
pedeſtals are ſtanding, of a coarſe, brown, ragged ftone: Beyond
theſe in the rock is a theatre, with remnants of the profcenium;
a ciftern, a ſquare tower, and the city-wall inclofing a ſummit;
near, which is another, with ſeven deep oval cíſterns in a row,
lined with plaſter. At a diftance behind them are four piers of
a broken aquæduct. A pond or two carefully embanked at the
mountain-foot are the prefent refervoirs. The plain is encom-
paffed with hills, is pleaſant, and has a ſtream running in it to-
ward the Harpafus.
I was here again difappointed in finding no infcription
to inform us of the antient name of the place; but fup-
poſe it to have been Alabanda. That city is deſcribed as
fituated beneath the fummits of a mountain. The founder was
Alabandus, who was worshipped there with greater devotion
than any of the noble deities. The people were luxurious and
gluttonous, and the city was full of female minstrels. It was
much infefted with fcorpions, as were in general the places
lying on the range of mountains between it and Mylafa. The
Cc
ridge
202 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
ridge of Alabanda had been likened to an aſs with a pack-ſaddle;
and a wag added, carrying a load of ſcorpions. At Mendelet, as
Pocock relates, fome perfons die, every fummer, by the fting
of this infect.
1
LEAVING Carpufeli at fix in the morning, and going north-
eaſtward, in about an hour and a half we forded the clear Har-
pafus, the bed now wide, crooked, and fandy. At ten our courfe
was northward, on its bank, in a valley. We were furrounded
with the delightful trilling of innumerable nightingales; and
the fiſh were viſible in the chryſtal ſtream. The river is deſcribed
by the shepherd-poet of Smyrna after rain, as impetuous, and
roaring whole days at its junction with the Meander; and Pliny
has mentioned a town called from it, Harpafa; now, if I miſtake
not, Arpas-kalefi, a ruined place, walled, on a hill above a ſmall
plain between the mountains, about a mile ſouth of the Maæan-
der, directly oppofite to Nofli".
WE paffed ſeveral villages, and leaving the Harpaſus behind
us, came at one to the Mæander, then deep in its bed; a fide of
the bank torn away by the violence of the current. We were two
minutes in ferrying over in a triangular boat; the rope of vine-
ſtocks hanging down lax in the water. The ftream below made
an elbow. An ordinary caufey, acroſs fome low moraffy ground,
fucceeded, with groves of tamariſk and a wide road. The ferry
is diſtant about an hour and a half from Güzel-hiffar, once Mag-
neſia by the Mæander.
1
• Pocock.
CHAP.
3
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
203
**
3
}
CHA P. LX.
Pocock's journey to Carpufeli-To Mylafa-To Efki-biffar and
places adjacent To Arabi-hiſſar or Alinda.
WE fhall give here an abſtract of Pocock's' journey into
Caria from Guzel-hiffar. He paffed the Mæander at the ferry,
when the bed was full; the ftream rapid, and a furlong broad.
He deſcribes the vine-boughs, of which the rope confifted, as
about an inch and a half in diameter, and from ten to fifteen feet
long. Three men pulled the boat over, a poſt fixed in it reft-
ing againſt the rope. The mouth of the Harpafus, which he
calls the China, is, as he relates, about a mile below the ferry.
That river has a wooden bridge, about eight miles further east-
ward, built on nine or ten large ftone piers, and about three
hundred feet long. He croffed there, and went on a league to
Salaſhar, where he lodged in a miſerable khan. The next day
the road lay between little green hills for about a league and a
half, when he came into the ſmall fertile plain of Carpufelí, and
to the ruined city on the fouth of it; which, he obferves, ex-
actly anſwers to the fituation of Alabanda.
FROM the ſouth-eaſt corner of this plain, Pocock aſcended
fouthwards, about three miles, to the top of the mountain,
where is a plain about a league broad. He calls the range
mount Latmus, and was told, it was frequented by `wolves, wild
boars and jackalls; and alfo by bears and tygers. Many herdf-
men dwell on it; and in fome places it was ploughed up, and
the fields incloſed with large trees laid round the edges. A
low, eafy, deſcent led into the vale of Mylaſa, which he com-
putes about four leagues long and one broad.
!
• P. 57.
Cc 2
+
HE
204
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
runs.
奋
​+
}
He fet out from Mylafa on the twentieth of February for
Efki-hiffar, diftant about twelve miles, and croffed the moun-
tains to the north-eaſt. He defcribes that place as between hills,
on a level ſpot opening to a large plain, in which the river China
He defcended from thence, and going a league to the
north, and then about two to the weſt, afcended near a league
to a village called Lakena; about a mile from which is a ruined
caftle, ftrongly fituated. The next morning, he went about
two leagues north to the river Paielu, which runs into the
China; and then croffing the hills to the weft, for the ſpace of
three leagues, came to one of the villages called Akfhouich; and
going on a league to the weſt, between low rocky hills, and by
the fide of a rivulet with a bridge, which he paſſed over, faw
a remnant of an old aquæduct; and entering a fine plain, tra-
velled acroſs it two miles northward to the village of China,
which is fituated at the east end, and to the fouth of the river
of that name. He went up the hill, of which: the top had
been fortified, and faw there two or three fepulchral grots, and
a ciſtern caſed with brick, above ground, conſiſting of two ob-
long fquare compartments. The village Lakena ſeems the an-
tient Lagina, where Hecate had her temple. The cable near
it, and that by China, are probably the two in the territory of
Stratonicéa, once called Tendeba and Aftragon.
•
CROSSING over to the fouth-fide of the plain from China, he
came to Arabi-hiffar, where are confiderable ruins of an antient
city, which he defcribes, and fuppofes to have been Alinda.
From hence he went about a league fouth-weft in the plain,
croffed ſome low hills, and returned to Guzel-hiſſary after re-
paffing the bridge over the China. The river, fays Popock,
rifes in the fouth-eaft part of Caria, beyond Aphrodifias; and,
running through the valley, which is near Stratonicéa and Ia-
gina, turns to the north, a little before it falls into the Mæander.
The chain of mountains between the two rivers, afford fine her-
bage for ſheep and black cattle, in which the country abounds.
The
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
205
1
The reader will obſerve, that he has given a much longer courfe
to the China than that affigned by us to the Harpafus. He was
ignorant of the tranfparent fprings, which we difcovered, and
which plainly appeared the fources of this or the principal
ftream.
'
4.
CHAP. LXI.
The Basha- அமள்ள
The river Lethæus
Of Guzek-biffar ---- Intelligence of the plague
Fright of our Fanizarỳ --- Magnefia
The remains ---Of Hyla---Distance from Ephefus and Tralles.
GUZEL-HISSAR, the beautiful Caftle, is a large and very
populous town; the houſes mean, with lofty domès, minarees,
and trees interſperſed; a high hill, antiently called Thorax,
towering behind them. It is the place of refidence of a Baſha.
The air, in the hot months, is fo bad as to be almoft peftilential.
We met many paffengers on the road; and the burying-grounds
were ftrewed with broken columns and remnants of marble. At
entering the town, we were furprized to fee around us innumer-
able tame turtle-doves, fitting on the branches of the trees, on
the walls, and roofs of houfes, cooing unceasingly. We were
conducted to a miferable khan, cloſe, and crouded with people.
We had here alarming intelligence of the plague at Smyrna,
the daily havoc it made, and the rapidity with which the fierce
contagion was then propagated; threatening to overſpread the
whole country before the end of the fummer. It was impoffible
a great thorough-fare, fituated like Guzel-hiffar, if free, could
continue long without infection. We had room to be appre-
henfive of the malady, and to be impatient to leave fo fufpicious
a place, where we were pent up in a ſmall chamber and gallery,
among doves and travellers, chiefly Turks; devoured by myriads
of infects; and ſuffering alike from extreme heat and from cha-
grin,
1
206 TRAVELS IN ASIA
MINOR.
I
grin, not daring to go out of the gate before we had permiſſion
from the Baſha.
THIS important officer lived in a deſpicable houſe on the hill;
his Harám, which is more fhowy, ſtanding ſeparate, and both
ſurrounded by an ordinary wall. Eight Agas, each with a re-
tinue of an hundred men, were then in the town, waiting his
commands. We had a recommendatory letter to his mohurdar
or treaſurer, which was delivered, with a prefent of a handſome
fnuff-box, by the Janizary, and graciouſly received. He pro-
mifed to mention us to the Bafha, but his engagements were fo
many, it was not eafy to find an opportunity; and in the mean
time we were confined to our khan.
OUR unweildy Janizary had feveral tireſome journies on this
buſineſs up to the caftle. On the ſecond afternoon he returned
with the welcome news, that we were at liberty. The mo-
hurdar had requeſted for us letters to the agas farther eastward,
but was denied; the Baſha being then at enmity, and, before
we left Aſia Minor, at open war with fome leading men in that
part of the country. The Janizary was pale and quivering, as
with fear. He refuſed even coffee, and lay down to fleep with
ſtrong ſymptoms of violent perturbation. He had been engaged,
as he afterwards related, in an infurrection of the Janizaries in
the iſland of Candia, to depoſe the governor, who, for fome
offence, had feized on fix of their brethren; and, when he was
admitted into the preſence of the Bafha, a privilege, which the
Janizaries claim, to kiss his hand or garment, he had imme-
diately known him to be that perſon; but fortunately was not
in turn recognized. This unexpected rencounter had confounded
poor Muſtapha to fuch a degree, that he came back almoſt doubt-
ing whether his head was ſtill on his ſhoulders.
MAGNESIA was peopled by a colony of Æolians from
Theffaly. The city was in the plain by Thorax, at no great
diſtance from the Mæander, but much nearer to the Lethæus,
which
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINŐR. 207
which roſe in the Ephefian mountain Pactyas, and fell into that
river. It was given to Themistocles to ſupply bread for his table.
Its principal ornament was a temple of Diana, called Leuco-
phryene or the White-browed, which was larger than any in Afia,
except the two at Epheſus and at Branchide. It excelled the
former in elegance and in the fitting up of the cell, but was in-
ferior in the number of offerings. This building was a pſeudo-
dipteros, and had eight columns in front, and fifteen on the
fides counting the angular columns. The order was Ionic; and
the architect the celebrated Hermogenes, who invented that
aſpect. He was a native of Alabanda; and a treatiſe on the
fabric was once extant, written by him. In the agora or market-
place a favourite Citharift was painted, clothed with the ſacred
purple of Jupiter Sofipolis or the Saviour of the City. He had
alfo a braſs ſtatue in the theatre. Some hillocks, which we
paſſed in our way from the ferry, were once the iſlets called De-
rafida and Sophonia, mentioned by Pliny as taken by nature
from Magneſia. The town, which, when this happened, was
not very remote from the fea, had in a more early period been
maritime. The fhore has fince been gradually removed ftill
- farther off.
THE river Lethæus divides the prefent town, which has a
lofty, but ordinary, bridge over the courſe. It deſcends through
a narrow and deep-worn vale, on the eaſt-fide of the caſtle, with
a mountain behind it of light brown earth, being a portion of
Meffogis. The ftream, which in winter is a deep torrent, was
now ſhallow. It received many brooks and rills on the fides, and
was clear and rapid. Water bubbled up in ſeveral places in the
bed, which was wide and partly dry. One of thefe fprings is
noted as remarkably cold and copious; and, as our guide told
us, is highly eſteemed and much drank of by the Turks and
other inhabitants during the hot months.
In one of the ſtreets we found a fquare capital, which, it is
likely, belonged to a temple of Ceres. The device on it was a
poppy
208
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
1
poppy between two wheat-ears and two torches. We´ ſaw alfo
many fragments of architecture of the Corinthian and Ionic or-
ders. After viewing the town, we afcended to the caſtle, and
were conducted to an eminence about a quarter of an hour be-
yond it, where is the ruin, as we fuppofed, of a gymnafium.
It reſembles the arcade, at Troas, confifting of a piece or two
of wall ſtanding, and three maffive arches; each painted with a
garland in the centre, and two on the fides, encircling an in-
fcription, of which fome letters, with ends of fillets, are viſible.
The fabric has been repaired or re-edified, and: ſome inſcribed
marbles are inferted in it, but too high to be legible. A Turk
had purchaſed the materials, but the Arcade is too ſolid, a build-
ing to be eaſily and ſuddenly demoliſhed. We enjoyed from it
a delicious proſpect of the plain and of the Maander. We dif-
covered no ftadium or theatre. The veftiges, if any remain,
were concealed in the town by the buildings; or without it, by
ftone-fences, olive-trees, and high corn.
IN the territory of this city was a place called Hyle, with a
cave facred to Apollo. This was of no extraordinary fize, but
the image of the god was one of the moſt antient. It was be-
lieved, that he furniſhed ability for every undertaking. His fer-
vants leaped, down the steep rocks and precipices; or, felling
tall trees, walked on them, with burthens, over the narrow, paffès
of the mountain. The cave perhaps remains, but I could get
no intelligence of it or of Hyle. Picenini relates, that in the
way to the houſe and garden of the Baſha on the hill, they were
ſhown a cave near the walls of the antient city, which, they
were told, extended underground as far as they could go in two
-days.
}
THE great road to the Eaſt from: Ephefus was through: Mag-
nefia, Tralles, Nyfa and Antiochia. Magnefias, according to
Strabo and Pliny, was only fifteen miles from Ephefus, but
Picenini makes it eleven hours from Aiafalúck. He fet out with
his companions, before five in the morning, going: fouthward,
and
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
209
and came to the vale, in which is the antient bridge.
They
paffed then over hills and through yallies. The next day they
travelled in a pleaſant plain, very extenfive on their right hand,
with the high tops of a mountain on their left, and arrived at
Magnefia. The mountain was Meffogis, and the plain that of
the Mæander, but they ſeem not to have taken the direct road.
The diſtance of Magnefia from Tralles was about eighteen miles.
The way to it was in the plain of the Mæander. This was alfo
on the right hand, and Meffogis on the left; which arrangement
was continued as far as Nyfa and Antiochia.
CHA P. LXII.
Of Tralles and Nyfa - Characa -Tralles restored by Auguftus
Cafar-Destroyed by the Turks - Rebuilt — Of Briula, Maf-
taura, and Armata.
}
TRALLES and Nyfa were fituated alike with reſpect to the
plain, being both above it to the north. Tralles was ſeated on
a flat, the eminence terminating in an abrupt point and inaccef-
fible all around. The greater part of Nyfa reclined on the
mountain, which was Meffogis. The city was divided, as it
were, into two, by a torrent, which had formed a deep bed.
One portion of the courſe had a bridge over it to connect the
fides; and another was adorned with an amphitheatre, under
which a paffage was left for the waters. Below the theatre were
two precipices; and on one was a gymnaſium; on the other,
the agora and fenate-houſe.
IN the way between Tralles and Nyfa was a village of Ny-
féans, not far from the city, named Characa; and a Plutonium
or temple of Pluto and Proferpine; with a beautiful grove, and
a Charonium or cave, of a wonderful, nature above it. Sick
people reſorted to the village, and the deities were their phyfi-
D d
cians,
-216
TRAVELS IN ASIA
ASIA MINOR.
cians, fuggefting, as was believed, efficacious remedies in dreams,
moſt commonly to the priests. Thefe were expert in managing
their patients, and would often lead them into the cave. They
ſometimes remained in it, as in a pit, ſeveral days fafting; but
perſons not under their guidance periſhed in it. A general af-
fembly was celebrated there yearly; when, toward noon, the
youth of the gymnafium, with the boys, all naked and anointed,
drove a bull with ſhoutings to the mouth of the cave, where he
was let loofe, and on entering fell down dead.
THE geographer Strabo, who ſtudied rhetoric and grammar at
Nyfa, mentions Tralles as inhabited, if any of the Afian cities,
by wealthy perfons; fome of whom were always Afiarchæ or
prefects of the province under the Romans. Among its eminent
men, his contemporaries, was Pythodorus, a native of Nyfa and
friend of Pompey. But Tralles, though an opulent and thriving
city, ſeems then to have contained nothing very remarkable. A
prodigy is recorded to have happened there in the civil war. A
palm-tree was ſeen ſpringing from between the ftones of the
pavement in the temple of Victory, in which a ftatue of Cæfar had
been confecrated. The gymnafium and other edifices, which
had fallen in an earthquake, were rebuilt by Auguftus. A wri-
ter', who lived in the fixth century, relates, that a huſbandman
named Chæremón, in a tranfport of affliction and zeal for his
country, haftened to the emperor, who was then in Cantabria,
and by his entreaties prevailed on him to restore the city, which,
he obſerves, had retained its form unaltered from that period.
He found in a field near Tralles a pedeſtal, which had fupported
a ftatue of this perfon, and copied from it the infcription, which
he has preſerved. It is in the Doric dialect, which was ſpoken
there, and introduced by the Argives, who, with fome Thra-
cians, founded Tralles:
1;
Agathias.
THE
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 211
ศ
*
+
THE Turks in 1175 making an irruption into the Roman em-
pire on this fide, and laying it waſte, Tralles and Antiochia ca-
pitulated. In 1266 they ſeized many towns and monaſteries,
but Tralles, with other advanced places, was fecured by the
Roman general. In the following year the Turks overran Ana-
tolia, and extended their frontier to the river Sangarius. Mi-
chael Paleologus was then emperor. The garriſons by the
Mæander, in Caria, Antiochia and the interior region, were ex-
ceedingly weak; and the fortreffes by the Cayfter, with Priene
and Miletus taken.
ANDRONICUS, fon of Paleologus, and his affociate in the
empire, arriving with fuccours in 1280, was charmed with the
fituation of Tralles, and refolved to rebuild the city, and replace
in it the families, which had been driven out. He intended
calling it Paleologopolis or Andronicopolis; and it is related,
that on a marble dug up by the workmen an oracle was found
infcribed, foretelling this reftoration of Tralles, and promifing
long life to its new founder. When the walls were raiſed, it
became one of the moft confiderable places by the Mæander;
people, it is likely, flocking to it as a ftrong-hold. It had thirty
five thouſand inhabitants; but was deftitute both of refervoirs to
receive rain, and of wells, which it feemed impoffible to dig
fufficiently deep. An army of Turks fuddenly appeared, and
intercepted the fupply of water from the river. The citizens
perfevering in their defence, they entered by ſtorm, and put
them all to the fword; Andronicus not moving from Nym-
phéum near Smyrna. The Turks had before fubdued Nyfa.
On the fame fide of the Mæander, were two other places
worth mentioning, Briula and Maftaura, the former of which,
on the eſtabliſhment of christianity, was made the feat of a
biſhop; and in the mountain, above Nyſa, was Aromata, or, as
the name ſeems to have been pronounced, Armata, noted for its
wine, which excelled any other produced on Meffogis, A vil-
Dd 2
lage
1
212
MINOR.
TRAVELS IN ASIA
lage named Iack-cui, fix miles eastward, is fuppofed by Pocock
to have been Briula; and one, at an entrance in between the
hills, as he relates, is ftill called Maftauro. He alfo mentions
fome walls on a very high fummit over Nyfa, which, he con-
jectures, may be remains of Aromata; but that perhaps was the
name only of a diſtrict planted with vines.
CHA P. LXIII.
Arrive at Sultan-biſſar --- Of Eſki-biſſar
Of Eſki-biſſar --- The fuppofed fite of
Tralles
· Nyfa --- Approach to Tralles and Nyfa---The remains
of Tralles ---Origin of Sultan-hilfar ---Proximity of Tralles and
Nyfa --- Continue our journey.
WE fet out from Magnefia on the twenty third at noon,
going eastward. By the road near the town were feveral wells
in a row, with Attic baſes of columns perforated, and placed
over the mouths. Theſe we ſuppoſed remnants of the temple
of Diana Leucophryene. The way was ſtrait and wide, in the
plain; the foil light and fandy, like that of Meffogis the moun-
tain on our left hand. On each fide of us were orchards of fig-
trees fown with corn; and many nightingales were finging in the
buſhes. We paffed ſome dry water-courfes and rivulets running
down to the Mæander; which was once in view, the ftream
winding, with a ferry. It was duſk when we pitched our tent
by Sultan-hiffar, which is about five hours from Magneſia.
SULTAN-HISSAR is an old fortrefs with houſes in and by it;
ſtanding in the plain; the fite correfponding neither with that of
Tralles nor with Nyfa It has, however, fome marble frag-
ments, which have been removed from adjacent ruins; and on
enquiry, we were informed that the eminence before us had on
it fome remains of old buildings; that the place was called
Eſki-hiffar, and diſtant about half an hour. We now expected
to
TRAVELS IN
ASIA MINOR.
213
1
}
to find Tralles and Nyfa there. It stands on a root of mount
Meffogis, running out into the plain and ending abruptly; once
perhaps, what it now reſembles, a lofty promontory encom-
paſſed with ſmooth water.
}
In the morning we croffed the plain to the foot of the emi-
nence, which we afcended, going toward the body of mount
Meffogis. The road up it was ftony, and carried over a deep
but dry water-courfe by an arch. Then followed broken vaults of
fepulchres, and diſtinct remnants of buildings, all ſtripped of their
marble; ſtanding on a flat covered with corn, trees, fences, and
walls. This immediately appeared to me to be the fite of
Tralles; which had a river near it called Eudon.
LEAVING theſe ruins, the road, ftill on the eminence, car-
ried us eaſtward and then to the fouth. We paſſed by a few
cottages, where I enquired for the Charonium, thinking we
were at Characa. We foon came to other vaults of fepulchres
and ruins of Nyfa; not on a flat. Here we found a large theatre in
the mountain-fide with many rows of feats, almoſt entire, of
blue veined marble, fronting weftward. By the left wing is a
wide and very deep water-courſe, the bed of the river once called
Thebaites, making a vaſt gap into the plain, but concealed in
the front of the theatre, where is a wide level area, with foil,
ſupported by a bridge; beyond which, in the hollow, was the
amphitheatre, the figure oblong, the feats refting on the two
flopes. The bottom of this ſtructure is deftroyed, and only
fome maffes of brick-work remain, with fome marble fragments
by the end next the theatre, where you have a view of the lofty
and ſolid piers, with arches, ſuſtaining the area. The eminence
terminates on each fide of the amphitheatre in a precipiece.
On one fide is the ruin of the gymnafium, and on the other, of
the fenate-houſe; by which is the area or vacant ſpace of the
agora. The fite of Nyfa, as well as of Tralles, was covered
with corn and fences of piled ſtones. We had from it a deli-
cious profpect of the plain and of the crooked Meander.
Our
guide
1
t
#
214-
IN ASIA MINOR.
TRAVELS IN
guide affured us we had now feen all the ruins near Sultané
hiffar.
We have deſcribed Tralles and Nyfa as having one approach
from the plain, on the weft-fide of the eminence, where the
road dividing leads on the left to Tralles, and on the right to
Nyfa. This was the only avenue, which required to be de-
fended; and the Turks, it is likely, ftormed Tralles after un-
dermining the wall there, or beneath the amphitheatre of Nyfa..
1
THE buildings at Tralles, as may be inferred from the remains,
were originally compofed moftly of ſtones or pebbles, with ce-
ment. Andronicus, as it were, deftroyed the city, by rebuild-
ing it. The houſes were haftily finiſhed, and old Tralles in good
meaſure demoliſhed by the new fettlement; of which the vef-
tigès extant, after five hundred years, are few, befides 'loofe
ftones and rubbiſh.
In the year 1403 we find Tamerlane at Sultan-hiffar; which
fortreſs was probably erected by the Turks to cut off the com-
munication with the river, or to prevent the Romans from ſet-
tling again on the mountain.
THE ruins on the eminence, though feparate, are at a very
ſmall diſtance from each other in a ſtrait line. The diſtance of
Tralles from Magnefia in Strabo is one hundred and forty ftadia
or ſeventeen miles and a half; in Pliny, eighteen miles. Nei-
ther of theſe authors has noted the diſtance of Nyfa from Mag-
nefia; probably becauſe included in that of Tralles. They have
alſo omitted the diſtance between Tralles and Nyfa, as inconfi-
derable. If the materials and maffes of buildings were removed
from Tralles, its fite would be no longer diſtinguiſhable; but at
Nyfa the hill will always retain the concavity or figure of a
theatre. Nyfa is here aſcertained by indubitable tokens; and
its
$
2
TRAVELS IN ASIA
ASIA MINOR, 215
its diſtance from Guzel-hiffar or Magnefia is an argument for the
proximity which I have fuppofed between it and Tralles.
We ſet forward again about noon, and riding through Sultan-
hiffar, came to Nolli-bazar or The Market of Nafli, the town
called Noſli-Boiuc or Great Noli, appearing with white minarees
at a diſtance on our right hand toward the Mæander. This
place is ſuppoſed to have been Antiochia. We purſued our jour-
ney eaſtward without ſtopping.
4
CHA P. LXIV.
Of Antiochia, Cofcinia, and Orthofia —— Picenini's rout to Nofli
-To Jeni-Sheir-To Geyra-To Ipfili-hiffar-To Laodicea-
Remarks — Pocock's rout to Jeni-ſheir and Geyra - Roads, and
distances of places,
ANTIOCHIA, though a great thorough-fare, was but a
middling city. It had a bridge over the Maander, and was
liable to earthquakes. Its territory, which lay on each fide of
the river, was large and fruitful, and produced in plenty the
figs called Antiochene and Three-leafed, the fame, it is likely,
which are now, as formerly, dried; and which we purchaſed in
theſe parts, ftrung like beads, and found extremely good as well
as cheap. In 1176 the town furrendered to the Turks; and in
1198 was in danger from the Sultan of Iconium, but eſcaped by
an accident. - In 1206 it was befieged by the Turkiſh army, and
relieved by Lafcaris, emperor of Nice. Befides Antiochia, this
region had two places, beyond the Mæander, worthy of notice ;
Cofcinia and Orthofia; the latter afterwards an epifcopal fee. A
ſtream running from Cofcinia toward Alabanda was remarkable
for its windings.
1 The Tralles of Smith and Wheler is the real Nyfa. See alfo Pocock. p. 67.
PICENINI
}
❤
216
TRAVELS IN ASIA MIN O R.
}
}
PICENINI and his companions left Guzel-hiffar at five in the
afternoon, and at nine came to a hut called Chiofek or Chiau-
ſkui. The next morning they ſet out at fix, and at eight reached
Sultan-hiffar. Soon after they paffed through a village called
Homerkioi, in the way to the town of Noſli, where they arrived
at eleven. They were pleaſed with the civility of the Turks,
with the three mofques, the houſes, and the neatneſs of the
ftreets.
*
FROM Nofli theſe travellers went eaſtward through the plain;
and after about four hours, ſtopped on the banks of the Mæander,
which river they croffed the next morning, and then in an hour
faw an old caſtle called Jeni-fheir upon a hill, with arched caves
or vaults at the foot. They afcended to it, having paffed a ri-
vulet named Gengere, and found, befides thick walls built with
ſmall ſtones, a few fragments of columns. From theſe ruins,
returning eastward, they had a fine view of the Mæander in the
plain below, and found there a lion carved in white marble, the
head and hind parts miffing, the back infcribed with the word
o▲oc, The way, which ſhows it was defigned as an index for
paffengers.
LEAVING the Mæander behind, they went on, more to the
fouth in a vale almoſt uncultivated; and at noon halted by fome
mills near the fource of the rivulet which they had repaffed; and
arrived, after two hours more, at Geyra or Aphrodiſias, diftant
twenty hours from Guzel-hiffar or Magnefia. There they met
with many ruins and inſcriptions; and of the latter copied near
an hundred.
FROM Geyra going eastward and fometimes northwardly, among
hills, they came to a lofty mountain, which they afcended by a
rough track amid thickets and pines. Narrow vallies fucceeded,
and after four ſhort hours they reached Ipfili-hiffar, a caſtle on
a pointed hill within the mountain, and two hours, as they were
told
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 217
told, from the Meander. They found there about fifty Turkiſh
cottages, and a mofque, by which were three inſcriptions, with
a few other remains.
THEIR road lay again through narrow vallies. After two
hours they thrice paffed a rivulet, called Hagi-fic, remarkable
for winding dike the Mæander, into which it runs; and after
three hours came to Gerelikioi, a pleaſant village about a ſhort
hour from that river. Going four hours more, eastward, among
pleafant hills and vales, they arrived at Laodicea.
+
IT feems probable that Jeni-Sheir was antiently Orthofia, and
that the vaults or arches are remains of fepulchres; and alſo,
that Ipfili-hiffar was Cofcinia, and the winding rivulet that men-
tioned as running toward Alabanda. The infcriptions, which
they copied, prove Geyra to have been Aphrodifias, a place ranked
by Strabo among the fmaller towns lying round about Laodicea
and Apamea. Some of them have been publiſhed by Chiſhull;
but many more, equally worthy the attention of the learned, are
preſerved in a manufcript, which was Lord Oxford's, now in
the Britiſh Muſeum.
I
Pocock reached Jeni-Sheir by a different rout; going from
Nofli about four miles fouth to the Mæander, where was a
wooden bridge; and from thence to Arpas-kalefi; then turning
fouth, and going to a village two leagues farther eastward at the
entrance of a narrow vale, which extends fouthward between
the hills. He deſcribes Jeni-Sheir as to the eaſt of this place, a
hill ſtretching from eaſt to weſt with ruins on it of the walls of
a town, and with a great number of arches underground. There
the Turkish army in 1739 fubdued the famous rebel Soley Bey
Ogle, who was flain, with four thousand of his followers. He
then entered the narrow vale, and going about eight miles to
the ſouth, left a town or large village on the weft. This place,
1
*P,.68.
E e
called
218. TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
called Carajefu, was invincible to Soley Bey, the deep beds of
torrents protecting it from affault. He then turned eaſtward, and
going four miles in a plain, which he computes about two
leagues long from east to west and one broad, arrived at Geyra;.
from whence he returned to Nofli.
*
-
WE fhall conclude this chapter with an account of the an-
tient rout through Caria and Ionia as preferved, with the order
of the places and their diſtances, by Strabo. On the way to Ephe
fus from Phyfcus, which was on the continent of Afia oppofite
to Rhodes, you came to Lagina diftant eight hundred and fifty
ftadia or one hundred fix miles and a quarter; then to Alabanda,
two hundred and fifty ftadia or thirty one miles and a quarter,
then to Tralles, one hundred and fixty or twenty miles. The
Mæander was croffed about midway between Alabanda and Tral-
les, where were the boundaries of Caria; and the whole dif-
tance from Phyſcus to the river was eleven hundred and eighty
ftadia or one hundred forty feven miles and a half. From the
Mæander to Tralles the diſtance was eighty ftadia or ten miles;
then to Magnefia one hundred and forty or feventeen miles and
a half; then to Ephefus one hundred and twenty or fifteen miles;
to Smyrna three hundred and twenty or forty miles; to Phócéa
and the Ionian boundaries lefs than two hundred ftadia or twenty
five miles. Thus the extent of Ionia was a little more than
eight hundred ſtadia' or one hundred miles. The moſt common
road to the Eaſt from Ephefus, as has been mentioned before,
was by Antiochia, and from thence to Caroura, feven hundred
and forty ſtadia or ninety two miles and a half; and then through
Laodicea and Apamea.
2
1 Strabo gave alſo the extent of the coaft of Ionia, with its windings; but the
paffage is imperfect. p. 632. It is much leffened, fince his time, between Epheſus
and Pofidium.
2 In Peutinger's table the diſtance between Caroura and Laodicea is XX miles;
but the numbers can ſeldom be relied on.
}
है
Peutinger's, or the Theodofian, table is a moft curious relique of antiquity. If
the Antonine Itinerary, and the many diſtances of places and the different routs, to
CHAP.
}
TRAVELS IN
IN ASIA MİNOR.
219
+
+
*
મ
鼗
​7
+
CHA P. LXV.
A ferry Caroura
Our journey continued ---The Afian meadow
3
Ruin of a bridge --- A hot spring.
•
THE road, which we took from Sultan-hiffar, was that
which antiently led to Caroura and to Laodicea in Phrygia,
without paffing through Antiochia. We met on it many paf-
fengers, and mules, and long ftrings of camels. The ground
was dry, the foil fine, and covered with corn, with fig and
olive trees. Our courfe was a little north of eaſt. After five
-hours we pitched our tent. A fummit of the mountain, on the
fouth-fide of the Mæander, or of Taurus, which was oppofite
to us, had ſnow on it. On our left was a rifing ground beneath
the hilly range of Meffogis, 'with a large village; and on the
level in the front were many deep wells, each furniſhed with a tall
pole ſupporting a long leaver, from which hung a rope and a
wooden bucket to raiſe water for the caravans.
*
t
4
MOUNT Meffogis, beyond Nofli-Bazar, becomes lefs wide
and lofty than before, and is over-topped by mount Tmolus. I
obſerved a remarkable gap in the range of Meffogis, opening a
view into a green plain, at ſome diſtance on our left hand. I
wiſhed to explore this pleaſant region; but our rout was ſettled,
and the ſudden changing it might have been attended with incon-
veniences, if not with danger. That place, if I miſtake not,
-was called Leimon or The Meadow, which is defcribed as lying
above mount Tmolus and the fouthern parts of Meffogis, thirty
be found fcattered in various old authors, were carefully compared with it, moſt of
the prefent difficulties would be removed; the true readings would be reſtored, the
authority of the refpective numbers would be afcertained, and antient geography
receive a confiderable and very uſeful improvement. For an account of Peutinger's
Table fee p. 115. Acta Lipfienfia for the year 1753.
E e 2
ftadia
220
TRAVELS F ASIA MINOR.
3
$
ftadia or three miles and three quarters from Nyfa. The inha.
bitants of this city, and all around it, held there a general af
fembly. There, they faid, was the Afian meadow of Homer }
and in it was fhown the heroum or monument of Afius, and ›
alſo of Cayfter, with the fource of the river and not far from
it was the mouth of a cave facred to Pluto and Proferpine, and
ſuppoſed to communicate with that at Characa: and, befides thefe
objects of enquiry, the traveller may, it is likely, difcover a
caſtle in this tract; for we read that the grand Duke Roger,
after defeating the Turks, condemned the governor of the fort
of Afi on the Mæander for deferting it.
*
AT ſeven in the morning we purfued our journey eastward,
the mountains now projecting, and the plain getting narrower.
At half after ten we puſhed on to a coffee-fhed by the road-ſide;
a ſudden gust of wind, from black clouds in the weft, driving be
fore it a thick duft, which was followed by a furious fhower in
our backs. The brooks fwelled, and in the afternoon ran down
with noiſe to the Mæander. We tarried near three hours; and
arrived, in three hours and a half more, at a ferry. The current
was ſtrong and muddy, the float old and heavy, but we croffed
in a minute and a quarter.
d
We now approached the fite of Caroura, the boundary of
Caria toward Phrygia. It was a village with khans or inns for
travellers, in one of which a large company, while revelling,
had been ſwallowed up by an earthquake. It was remarkable
for furges or eruptions of hot waters, in the river, or on its
margin'. Caroura fignifies a place of fire, and, it has been
ſuppoſed, was ſettled by ſome of the Egyptian race 2.
See Paufanias. p. 241.
f
2 See the very learned and ingenious Mr. Bryant. Obfervations and Enquiries.
.P. 175. 179.
2
RIDING
?
TRAVELS 221
AK
IN ASIA MINOR.
RIDING along the bank of the river, we diſcovered the ruin
of an antient bridge. The remnant was on the farther fide, and
confifts of half of the central arch, with one ſmaller arch entire.
This bridge was probably broken before the year 1244; when an
interview being agreed on between the emperor of Nice and the
Turkiſh Sultan, the latter paffed the river in his way to Tripolis
on a temporary bridge made of rafts for the occafion.
>
THE exiſtence of Caroura, it is likely, was determined by
the lofs of the paffage. We faw no traces of that place; but
going near the ruin, one of our horfes turned fhort, which led
us to obfèrve a vein of hot water boiling up out of the ground,
like a jetté, ſome inches perpendicular, and forming a ſmall
quagmire.
•
CHA P. LXVI.
Journey continued --- Temple of Menes Denifli --- The Turks
uncivilized --- Arrive at Laodicea --- Our tent befet--- Our Ja-
nizary feized---Behaviour of an Aga---Thieves---The weather.
AFTER we had paffed the river, the plain widened again,
and was cultivated, but not inclofed, as before. Meffogis was
now of a chalky aſpect; and the mountain on our right green
with trees. We faw a few ſcattered booths of Turcomans. At
four our courſe inclined to eaſt-fouth-eaft. We obferved many
jays, and upupas, and a beautiful bird, like a hawk, with blue
gloffy plumage. We had travelled eight hours and three quar-
ters, when we pitched our tent by a village under a ſummit co-
vered with fnow.
THE following day we arrived at Denifli in four hours, our
courfe as before, the river not in view. The fun fhone very
comfortably, and the melted fnow ran in dirty rills down the
flopes. On the way ſome ſtones and veftiges of a building oc-
curred,
222
}
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
curred, perhaps of a temple of Menes, called Carour. This
deity was worſhipped in a peculiar manner. The temple was
between Caroura and Laodicea, and had once been a great
feminary of phyficians.
*
DENISLI is fortified with an ordinary wall, which inclofes a
few cottages, and refembles Segigeck. The gate-way, on our
approach, was crouded with men and boys. Our Janizary and
Swiſs tarried there to purchaſe provifions and other neceffaries,
while we difmounted in a meadow at a ſmall diftance expecting
their return. Our baggage-horfes were ſcarcely unloaded, when
both rejoined us; the Swifs complaining, that the Greeks under-
ſtood only the Turkish language, in which he was not expert;
the other to inform us, we were required by the owner of the
ground to change our conáck or refting-place. We removed to a
tree, under which we dined, by a muddy ftream, and were
wetted by a ſmart ſhower.
}
We had lately perceived an alteration in the carriage of the
Turks; who, in the interior regions, feldom fee ftrangers, and
are full of ferocity. A general want of cordiality toward us
had been apparent, and fome trifling infults we had received
on the road, were fore-runners of more inconvenient incivilities.
Some Turks here told us, we had no danger to apprehend on
this fide of the plain; but if we proceeded to Pambouk on the
farther fide we must be cautious, for the Turcomans in that
quarter were robbers and murderers.
We ſet out again for Efki-hiffar or Laodicea, then diſtant an
hour northward. On the way a Turk, whofe dreſs and mein
beſpoke him above the common rank, overtook us; and, our
men enquiring, courteously directed them to a commodious fitua-
tion for our tent, which we pitched in the evening on a ſmall
rifing, on the edge of the plain, by the junction of two
, ftreams.
WE
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
223
ས
We were in general very much fatigued, and about ſunſet
lay down to reft; an Armenian or two watching our horfes,
which were ftaked and grazing by the tent. Some time after it
was dark, we were fuddenly furrounded by armed men, con-
ducted by the Turk, who had recommended this ſpot. Their
buſineſs was to demand Bac-fhiſh for their Aga. They pryed
into our baggage, prancing their long-tailed horfes, and threaten-
ing, if they were not immediately gratified. We were too
foundly afleep within the tent to be eaſily awakened. The Swifs,
fhaking the relater by the hand, informed him of the quality
and importunity of thefe unwelcome vifitants. He was bid to
tell their chief, that the Aga ſhould be fatisfied in the morning ;
and the Janizary urging, that the hour was unfeaſonable, and that
we purpoſed ſtaying, they were prevailed on to depart, taking him
with them to pacify their maſter.
At the dawn of day a Turk was fent to obferve if we were
ftirring, and the Janizary ſet out with our Firhman, and a pre-
fent of coffee, fugar, and money; but the Aga declared, he
would have at leaſt an hundred and thirty piaſtres; and Muſta-
pha, pleading our Firhman and remonftrating, was ſeized, dif-
armed, and thrown into prifon. In the mean time we were very
uneaſy at the tent, preſaging no good from his long ſtay. After
ſome hours, we faw him coming without his gun, piſtol, or
fabre; terrified and dejected. He exclaimed, we were among
rebels and robbers; that the roads were befet to prevent our
eſcape, and the Aga, if we heſitated to comply with his demand,
was determined to cut us in pieces, and take poffeffion of our
baggage.
THE Janizary deſcribed this Aga as uncommonly fierce and
haughty, and bade us apprehend the very worst confequences
from his intemperance and favage difpofition. The impreffion
made on him' was communicated to our Armenians, and we alł
diſliked our ſituation. After a ſhort conſultation, I
gave him
twenty
224
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
twenty zechins, affirming truly, that we had no money to fpare,
but might want even that fum before we reached Smyrna. He
ventured back, with fome reluctance, into the prefence of the
Aga, who was prevailed on to receive it, but with difficulty;
and then enquired about our Firhman, which he before had re-
fuſed to hear named. The Janizary returned to him again with
it, and after it had been read, he refunded nine of the zechins;
believing, as he was told, that we belonged to the English em-
baffador, and were going from Smyrna to Conftantinople; and
fearing we might complain there of his behaviour. He now faid
he would be reſponſible for our ſafety.
us.
7
As foon as this bufinefs was adjufted, we began to examine
the fite of Laodicea, which was clafe by us. On the first day
we were attended by one of the Aga's men, a mean, ill-looking
fellow, who required a piaftre, his pay, and in the evening left
The Janizary, who, by that time, had flept away his fa-
tigue and chagrin, went back with him to the village, about an
hour diftant, for his bridle, which had been exchanged for one
of no value. We were vifited at our tent, during our stay here,
by ſeveral of the natives and Turcomans, who manifefted fo fa-
vage and bad a difpofition; that our men eſtabliſhed a regular
watch. They ftole our pipes and even earthen boles or heads;
a ſpecies of petty larceny, which exceedingly diftreffed ſome of
our company.
THE Mæander, running between the hill of Laodicea and
mount Meffogis, divides the plain, which there becomes narrow.
Our view eastward was terminated by mountains not very remote.
The fummits on the fouth and fouth-eaft were covered with
fnow. From the first quarter we had a very ſharp piercing
breeze at the dawn of day; and from the latter, as foon as the
fun was rifen. At noon the atmoſphere was (moky, the sky hot
and fiery; and then cloudy, with fhowers. It thundered in the
north and north-west. We experienced, as it were, winter and
fummer in the ſpace of twenty four hours.
CHA P.
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
225
of
Of Laodicea
CHA P. LXVIÎ.
The Amphitheatre · --- An infcription
A ruin-
The Odéum---Other remains, and two theatres---The rivers---
Modern hiftory of Laodicea.
-
THE city Laodicea was named from Laodice the wife of
its founder Antiochus, the fón of Stratonice. It was long an
inconfiderable place, but increaſed toward the age of Auguſtus.
Cæfar. It had fuffered in a fiege from Mithridates. The fer-
tility of the foil, and the good fortune of ſome of its citizens,
raiſed it to greatneſs. Hiero, who adorned it with many offer-
ings, left the people his heir to more than two thouſand talents.
After this benefactor followed Zeno, the rhetorician; and Polemo,
his fon, as renowned a fophift as ever lived. He flouriſhed at
Smyrna; but was buried at Laodicea, by the Syrian gate, near
which were the ſarcophagi of his anceſtors. Laodicea, though
inland, grew more potent than the cities on the coaft, and be
came one of the largeſt towns in Phrygia. The other was
Apamea Cibotos.
WE had croffed the hill, on which Laodicea ftood, coming
from Denifli. On our approach to it, we had on either hand
traces of buildings; and on our right the vaults of a low aquæ-
duct. The firſt ruin was of an amphitheatre, in a hollow, the
form oblong, the area about one thouſand feet in extent, with
many feats remaining. At the weft end is a wide vaulted paf-
fage, defigned for the horfes and chariots; about one hundred
and forty feet long. The entrance from without is choked up,
except a ſmall aperture, at which a glimmering light enters;
and the foil has rifen above the impofts of the interior arch.
This has an inſcription on the mouldings, in large characters, in
Greek, which may be thus tranflated, "To the emperor Titus
F f
"Cæfar-
J
220 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
"
"Cæfar Auguſtus Vefpafian, ſeven times conful, ſon of the em-
peror the god Vefpafian; and to the people. Nicoftratus
"the younger, fon of Lycius, fon of Nicoftratus, dedicated
at his own expenfe; Nicoftratus
८६
his
"heir having completed what remained of the work, and
"Marcus Ulpius Trajanus the proconful having confecrated it."
The feventh confulate of Vefpafian falls on the feventy ninth year
of the Chriſtian æra, and the conſulfhip of Trajan on the eighty
fecond. Twelve years were confumed in perfecting the ſtructure.
By another ruin is a pedeſtal with an infcription, which will
illuſtrate that on the arch. It relates to the fame family, and to
the two benefactors. The fenate and people have honoured
Tatia daughter of Nicoftratus fon of Pericles, a new heroine,
"both on account of the magiftracies and miniſtries and public
"works of her father, and on account of her great uncle Nico-
* ftratus, whò lately, befides his other benefactions, was prieft
"of the city, and changed the ftadium into an amphitheatre----
The city increafing, the ftadium, it fhould feem, was not fuffi-
ciently capacious, but Nicoftratus enlarged or lengthened it, and
converted it into an amphitheatre, like that at Nyfa. Aftructure
of fo vaft a circumference, when filled with the Laodiceans fitting
in rows, muſt itſelf have been a very glorious and ftriking fpec-
tacle.
I
12.
On the north fide of the amphitheatre toward the caft 'end,
is the ruin of a moft ample edifice. It confifts of many piers and
arches of ſtone, with pedeftals and marble fragments. At the
weft end lies a large ftone with an infcription; the city or people
"has erected Afed, a man of ſanctity and piety, and recorder
'for life; on 'account of his ſervices to his country." This fa
bric was perhaps the repofitory of the laws, and contained the
fenate-houfe, the money-exchange, and public offices. It has been
remarked, that the waters of Laodicea, though drinkable, had
a petrifying quality; and at the caft end of this ruin is a mafs of
incruftation
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
227
}
incruſtation formed by the current, which was conveyed to it in
carthen pipes.
* FROM this ruin, you fee the Odéum, which fronted fouth-
ward. The feats remain in the fide of the hill. The profcenium
lies in a confuſed heap. The whole was of marble. Sculpture
had been lavished on it, and the ftyle favoured lefs of Grecian
taffe than Roman magnificence.
BEYOND the Qdéum are fome marble arches ftanding, with
pieces of maffive wall, the ruin, as we conjectured, of a gym-
nafium. This fabric, with one at a ſmall diſtance, appeared to
have been re-edified, probably after an earthquake, to which
calamity Laodicea was remarkably fubject. Weſtward from it
are three marble arches eroffing a dry valley, as a bridge. Many
traces of the city-wall may be feen, with broken columns and
pieces of marble uſed in its later repairs. Within, the whole fur-
face is frewed with pedeſtals and fragments. The luxury of the
citizens may be inferred from their ſumptuous buildings, and
from two capacious theatres in the fide of the hill, fronting
northward and weftward; each with its feats, rifing in numerous
rows one above another. The travellers in 1705 found a maimed
ftatue at the entrance of the former, and on one of the feats the
word ZHNQNOZ Of Zeno. Beneath the hill on the north are
ſtone ſarcophagi, broken, ſubverted, or funk in the ground.
THE two ftreams, which united by our tent were the Lycus
and the Caprus. The Lycus flows from a mountain called Cad-
mus, above Laodicea or to the caft. It is feen in the plain,
north of the hill, and was now fhallow and about two yards
over. After its junction with the Caprus, on the north-west, it
becomes a fizeable river. The Caprus' deſcends on the weft,
1 Called Giumiſkioi. The rivulet washing the eaſtern fide of the hill, called
Hofolous. The Lycus, which flows not far off in the plain beneath, called Diok-
bounar. Picenini.
F f 2
through
228
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
through a narrow valley, in which are four tall piers of a bridge
once croffing it and leading to a gate of the city. Theſe rivers are
repreſented on medals. The Afopus, which ran on the oppofite
fide, was dry. Laodicea, with Coloffe its neighbour, was enriched
by ſheep, which produced fleeces exceeding Milefian in foftnels
and the jetty raven in colour. The river Scamander or Xanthus
was ſuppoſed the author of the yellow hue obfervable in the
Troad. This region was faid to be indebted to the Lycus. The
breed perhaps has been neglected. Some fhepherds came with
their flocks to the ruins, and in the evening to the water by our
tent. I remarked only one or two, which were very black and
gloffy.
LAODICEA was often damaged by earthquakes, and reſtored
by its own opulence or by the munificence of the Roman empe-
rors. Theſe reſources failed, and the city, it is probable, became
early a ſcene of ruin. About the year 1097 it was poffeffed by the
Turks, and ſubmitted to Ducas general of the emperor Alexis.
In 1120 the Turks facked fome of the cities of Phrygia by the
Mæander, but were defeated by the emperor John Comnenus,
who took Laodicea, and built anew or repaired the walls. About
1161 it was again unfortified. Many of the inhabitants were
then killed, with their biſhop, or carried with their cattle into
captivity by the Turkiſh Sultan. In 1190 the German emperor
Frederick Barbaroffa, going by Laodicea with his army toward
Syria on a Croifade, was received fo kindly, that he prayed on
his knees for the proſperity of the people. About 1196 this re-
gion with Caria was dreadfully ravaged by the Turks. The Sul-
tan, on the invafion of the Tartars in 1255, gave Laodicea to
the Romans, but they were unable to defend it, and it foon re-
turned to the Turks. We faw no traces either of houfes, churches,
or moſques. All was filence and folitude. Several ſtrings of ca-
mels paffed eaſtward over the hill; but a fox, which we firſt dif-
covered by his ears peeping over a brow, was the only inhabi-
tant of Laodicea.
}
*
CHAP.
5
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR,
229
*
A
h
*
CHA P. LXVIII.
A
—
We set out for Pambouk or Hierapolis-Stopped Behaviour of
an Aga―The cliff &c. Quality of the foil about the Mæ-
ander
-Hot waters of Hierapolis - Another cliff— Poetical
account of the cliff.
A PORTION of Meffogis oppofite to Laodicea appears as
a white lofty cliff. We fuppofed it to be chalk. Pambouk, or
the ruined city Hierapolis', which we could ſee, is ſeated upon
it, beneath the fummits of the mountain. The diſtance was one
hour and a half, ´north-north-eaſtward. The Aga, with whom
we had lately been embroiled, told the janizary, that he com-
manded at Pambouk, the Aga of the place being abfent, and
that we had nothing to fear there, as we were under his pro-
tection. We relied on his affurances, and left Laodicea on the
thirtieth of April in the afternoon; croffing the plain toward
Pambouk.
WE paffed the Lycus on the weſt of Laodicea near an ordi-
nary bridge, and came in about three quarters of an hour to the
Mæander, which had two beams laid acroſs it, with planks;
the water deep in its bed, muddy, as ufual, and rapid. Some
men, who were digging a trench in the plain, left off and waited
our approach. They were headed by a Chiauſh or the Meſſenger
of an Aga, who commanded in a ſmall village to the west of Pam-
bouk. He ſtopped us at a narrow paſs, feizing the bridles of the
horfes which were foremoſt. Our janizary gallopped up, and
interpofing, was informed the Aga infifted on bac-fhifh.
1 Laodicea was fix miles from Hierapolis. Antonin. Itiner.
'
WE
230
TRAVELS IN ASIA' MINOR.
I
1
We rode on to Pambouk, and, while our tent was pitching,
the Janizary went to the Aga with our Firhman, and a prefent
of coffee and fugar. He was civily received, the Aga com-
miferating our late ill ufage, of which he had heard, and com
plaining, that the fame perfon had extorted from him an extra-
vagant ranſom for a stray beaft; faying, he was a man of a bad
character, of an imperious temper, and, from his ſuperior power,
the tyrant of that country. He demanded five okes of coffee;
and fome other claims were made for his officers, amounting in
the whole to ten okes, for which money was accepted. He de-
clared we had no danger to apprehend by day at Pambouk, but
recommended our leaving the ruins early in the evening. We
enjoyed by anticipation the ſecurity he foretold.
OUR tent ſtood on a green dry ſpot near the cliff. The view
before us was fo marvellous, that the deſcription of it, to bear
even a faint reſemblance, ought to appear romantic. The vaft
flope, which at a diſtance we had taken for chalk, was now be-
held with wonder, it feeming an immenſe frozen caſcade, the
furface wavy, as of water at once fixed, or in its headlong courſe
fuddenly petrified. Round about us were many high, bare, ftony
ridges; and cloſe by our tent, one with a wide bafis, and a
ſlender rill of water, clear, foft, and warm, running in a ſmall
channel on the top. A woman was waſhing linen in it, with a
child at her back; and beyond were cabbins of the Turcomans,
ſtanding diſtinct, much neater than any we had ſeen; each with
poultry feeding, and a fence of reeds in front.
It is an old obfervation, that the country about the Mæander,
the foil being light and friable, and full of falts generating in-
flammable matter, was undermined by fire and water. Hence
it abounded in hot fprings, which, after paffing underground
from the reſervoirs, appeared on the mountain, or were found
bubbling up in the plain or in the mud of the river: and hence
it was ſubject to frequent earthquakes; the nitrous vapour,
ît
compreffed
x
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR,
231
compreffed in the cavities and fublimed by heat or fermentation,
burſting its priſon with loud exploſions, agitating the atmoſphere,
and ſhaking the earth and waters with a violence as extenfive as
deftructive; and hence, moreover, the peftilential grottoes,
which had fubterraneous communications with each other,
derived their noifame effluvia; and ferving as fmaller vents to
theſe furnaces or hollows, were regarded as apertures of hell, as
paffages for deadly fumes rifing up from the realms of Pluto.
One or more of the mountains perhaps has burned; and it may
be fufpected, that the furface of the country has in fome places
been formed from its own bowels. In particular, it is probable,
that the hill of Laodicea was originally an eruption; for it confifts
of dry, impalpable foil, porous, with fmall cavities, refem-
bling the bore of a pipe; as may be feen on the fides, which
are bare. It refounded beneath our horfes' feet. The ftones
are moftly maffes of pebbles or of gravel confolidated; and
as light as pumice-tone. We had occafion to dig, and found
the earth as hard as any cement.
THE hot waters of Hierapolis have produced that moſt extra-
ordinary phænomenon, the cliff, which is one entire incrustation.
They were antiently renowned for this fpecies of transformation.
It is related, they changed to cafily, that being conducted about
the vineyards and gardens, the channels became long fences, each
a fingle ſtone. They produced the ridges by our tent. The
road up to the ruins, which appears as a wide and high cauſey,
is a petrification and overlooks many green fpots, once vine-
yards and gardens, feparated by partitions of the fame material.
The ſurface of the flat, above the cliff, is rough with ſtone and
with channels, branching out in various directions; a large pool
overflowing and feeding the numerous rills, fome of which
fpread over the flope, as they deſcend, and give to the white ftony
bed a humid look, refembling falt or driven fnow, when melt-
ing. This cruft, which has no taſte or ſmell, being an alkaline,
will ferment with acids; and Picenini relates, that trial of it had
been
232:
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
$
been made with ſpirit of vitriol. The waters, though hot, were
uſed in agriculture.
TAMERLANE, when he invaded this country, encamped for
the fummer at Tangûzlik, where many of his men were de-..
ſtroyed by drinking of a ſpring, which stagnated and petrified.
I ſhould have fuppofed that place to have been Hierapolis; but
other hot waters, with a fimilar cliff, will be mentioned in a fol- -
lowing chapter. The Turkish name Pambouk fignifies cotton,
and, it has been faid, refers to the whitenefs of the in-
cruftation.
Է
THE fhepherd-poet of Smyrna, after mentioning a cave in
Phrygia facred to the Nymphs, relates, that there Luna had once
defcended from the fky to Endymion, while he was fleeping by
his herds; that marks of their bed were then extant under the
oaks; and that in the thickets around it the milk of cows had
been fpilt, which men ftill beheld with admiration; for, fuch
was the appearance, if you ſaw it very far off; but, that from
thence flowed clear or warm water, which in a little while con-
creted round about the channels, and formed a ſtone
pavement.
The writer defcribes the cliff of Hierapolis, if I miſtake not,
as in his time; and has added a local ftory, current when he
lived. It was the genius of the people to unite fiction with
truth; and, as in this and other inftances, to dignify the tales
of their mythology with fabulous evidence, taken from the na-
tural wonders, in which their country abounded.
T
r
CHAP.
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
233
1
CHA P. LXIX.
Our
Remains of Hierapolis --- The theatre --- Antient manner of fitting
Ufe of the hot waters --- The pool --- The Plutonium
difappointment.
WE afcended in the morning to the ruins, which are on a
flat, paffing by fepulchres with inſcriptions, and entering the
city from the eaſt. We had foon the theatre on our right hand,
and the pool between us and the cliff. Oppofite to it, near the
margin of the cliff, is the remain of an amazing ſtructure, once
perhaps baths, or, as we conjectured, a gymnaſium; the huge
vaults of the roof ſtriking horror as we rode underneath. Be-
yond it is the mean ruin of a modern fortreſs; and farther on,
are maffive walls of edifices, feveral of them leaning from their
perpendicular, the ſtones diſtorted, and ſeeming every moment
ready to fall, the effects and evidences of violent and repeated
earthquakes. In a recefs of the mountain on the right hand is
the area of a ſtadium. Then again fepulchres fucceed, fome
nearly buried in the mountain-fide, and one, a fquare building,
with an inſcription in large letters. All thefe remains are plain,
and of ſtone. The ſite has been computed about two hundred
paces wide, and a mile in length.
AFTER taking a general ſurvey, we returned to the theatre,
intending to copy infcriptions and examine more particularly, as
we changed our ſtation. We found this a very large and ſump-
tuous ſtructure, and the leaſt ruined of any we had feen. Part
of the profcenium is ſtanding. In the heap, which lies in con-
fufion, are many fculptures well executed in baffo relievo; with
pieces of architrave infcribed, but disjointed; or fo encumbered
with maffive marbles, that we could collect from them no infor-
mation. The character is large and bold, with ligatures. The
marble ſeats are still unremoved. The numerous ranges are di-
vided
G g
་
}
?
234 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
vided by a low femicircular wall, near mid-way, with infcrip-
tions on the face of it, but moftly illegible. I copied a fhort,
but imperfect one, in which Apollo Archegetes or The Leader is
requeſted to be propitious. In another compartment, mention
is made of the city by its name Hierapolis; and on a third is an
encomium in verfe, which may be thus tranflated, "Hail
golden city Hierapolis, the ſpot to be preferred before any in
"wide Afis; revered for the rills of the nymphs; adorned
" with fplendor.” The nymphs prefided over fprings and
66
fountains.
THE reader may recollect fome other theatres and a ſtadium,
in which many of the feats remained in their places, and entire
After attentively viewing them, and confidering their height,
width, and manner of arrangement, I am inclined to believe,
that the antient Afiatics fate at their plays and public fpectacles,
like the modern, with their legs croffed or gathered under them
and, it is probable, upon carpets.
THE waters of Hierapolis were furprizingly attempered for
dying wool, giving it from roots a tincture which rivalled the
more coftly purples; and were a principal fource of the
riches of the place. The company of dyers is mentioned
in the inſcription on the fquare building among the fepul-
chres. That heroum or monument was to be crowned by them
with garlands or feftoons of flowers. The fprings flowed fo co-
piouſly, that the city was full of fpontaneous baths, and Apollo
the tutelar deity of the Hierapolitans, with Æfculapius and
Hygića, on their medals, bear witneſs to the medicinal virtues,
which they poffefs. The people, in fome of their infcriptions,
are ſtiled the moſt ſplendid, and the ſenate the most powerful.
..
THE pool before the theatre has been a bath, and marble
fragments are viſible at the bottom of the water, which is per-
fectly tranſparent, and of a briny tafte. The women of the
Aga, after bathing in it, came to the theatre, where we were
employed,
{
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 235
employed, to ſee us, with their faces muffled. They were fuc-
ceeded by the Aga, with feveral attendants. He was a young
man of good deportment and uncommon affability. He dif
courfed with our Janizary, fitting croſs-legged on the ruins,
fmoking and drinking coffee; and expreſſed his regret, that no
water fit to drink could be difcovered there; wifhing, if we pof-
feffed the knowlege of any from our books, we would commu-
nicate it to him; faying, it would be a benefit, for which all
future travellers fhould experience his gratitude.
HIERAPOLIS was noted, befides its hot waters, for a Pluto-
mium. This was an opening in a ſmall brow of the adjacent
mountain, capable of admitting a man, and very deep, with a
fquare fence before it, inclofing about half an acre; which
fpace was filled with black thick mift, fo that the bottom could
be ſcarcely difcerned. The air, to thoſe who approached it, was
innocent on the out-fide of the fence, being clear of the miſt in
ferene weather; it remaining then within the boundary; but
there death abode. Bulls, as at Nyfa, dropt down, and were
dragged forth without life; and ſome ſparrows, which Strabo let
fly, inftantly fell fenfelefs. But Eunuchs, the prieſts of Magna
Mater or Cybele, could go in quite to the aperture, lean forward
or enter it unharmed; but they held their breath, as their
viſages teftified, and fometimes until in danger of fuffocation.
Strabo, the relater, was in doubt, whether all Eunuchs could do
this, or only they of the temple; and if they were preferved by
Divine Providence, as in cafes of enthufiafm, or were poffeffed
of fome powerful antidotes. But it is likely this mift was the
condenſed ſteam of the hot waters, made noxious by the quali-
ties of the foil; and that the whole fecret of the prieſts con-
fifted in carrying their faces high in the air, as another ſpectator
has obferved they always did; and in avoiding reſpiration when
they ſtooped. I had hoped the defcription of this ſpot would
have enabled me to find it, but I fearched about for it unfuc-
cefsfully.
Gg 2
WE
236 TRAVELS IN ASIA MIÑOR.
*
WE defcended to our tent at the approach of evening, byda
ſteep track down the cliff, beginning beyond the pool, in which
we alſo bathed with pleaſure, on the fide next the gymnafium.
Our way was often rough and flippery, refembling ice, and our
horfes with difficulty preferved their footing. When arrived at
our tent, I renewed my enquiries for the Plutonium, and an old
Turk, with a beard as white as fnow, told me, he knew the
place, that it was often fatal to their goats; and accounting for
the effect, ſaid, it was believed to be the habitation of a dæmon
or evil fpirit. We afcended again early in the morning to the
theatre, where he had promiſed to join us ; and a live fowl was
intended to be the martyr of experiment. But we met this day
with ſome unexpected interruption, which made us leave Hierá-
polis in hafte, as will be related in a ſubſequent chapter.
{
CHA P. LXX.
Of Coloffa and the Lycus
Gelænæ Apamea
I
Rife of the Meander and the Marfyas
Courfe of the Maander Apamea
Subject to earthquakes --- Rout of Xerxes into Lydia.
IT had been my intention to extend our journey eastward to
the fources of the Meander. We were prevented from ad-
vancing farther than Laodicea and Hierapolis. I fhall therefore
endeavour to ſupply the deficiency, by giving as clear an account,
as I can, of the antient geography of that region, which has
been much perplexed.
1
AMONG the ſmaller places in Phrygia, lying round Laodicea
and Apamea, was Coloffa, once a large and populous city;
where the Lycus, entering a chaſm in the ground, diſappeared
for at moſt five ſtadia or above half a mile; after which it re-
emerged, and purfued its way by Laodicea to the Mæander.
1
The
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 237
The Lycus roſe on mount Cadmus, as did alſo another ſtream of
the fame name as the mountain.
BEYOND Coloffe was a fummit, and a city, once the capital
of Phrygia, named Celænæ; above which was a lake, where the
reed grew, which was uſed as the tongue or mouth-piece of the
aulos or flute, and where they fabled of Olympus, and of Mar-
fyas and his conteſt with Apollo. This lake was the reſervoir
or head of the Mæander and of the Marfyas', both which roſe
below it, ſeparate, and were revered by all the Phrygians in
thoſe parts, who facrificed to them, fingly or jointly, calling on
the river-god, to whom they offered, and throwing the thighs
of the victims into the fource, when the preſent was carried un-
derground by the eddy, and given, as they faid, to the ſtream
for which it was defigned; or, if intended for both, divided;
neither current invading the property of its neighbour.
CELÆNÆ was a large and flouriſhing city at the ſources of the
two rivers below the lake. The Great King or emperor of Perſia
had a ſtrong palace beneath the Acropolis, by the fprings of the
Marfyas, which rofe in the Agora, not lefs in fize than the Ma-
ander, and flowed through the city. Cyrus the younger had alſo
a palace there, but by the fprings of the Mæander, which river
paſſed likewiſe through the city. He had, moreover, an exten-
five paradife or park, full of wild beafts, which he hunted on
horfeback for exerciſe or amuſement; and watered by the Mæ-
ander, which ran through the middle. Xerxes was faid to have
built theſe palaces and the citadel after his return from his ex-
pedition into Greece.
ANTIOCHUS Soter removed the inhabitants of Celænæ into a
city, which he named from his mother, Apamea; and which
The Marfyas was the river next Caria as appears from the action mentioned in
chap. LVIII. The Carians were affembled by the Marfyas, and one of the leaders
adviſed paffing the Mæander, and fighting with that river in the rear..
became
1
238
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
became afterwards a mart inferior only to Ephefus. It was feated
on a root of mount Signia, and furrounded by the Marfyas,
Obrimas, and Orgas. The ſtream of the Marfyas' was hid, not
far from its rife, in a vale called Aulocrene; the foene, it was
fabled of the conteft with Apollo, ten miles from Apamea on
the way into Phrygia. It flowed through the middle of this city,
which was near its mouth; and pouring down into the fuburb
with a vehement precipitate current, the ſtream twenty five feet
wide, and without windings, joined the Mæander; which, hav-
ing before received the Orgas, paffed through the plain, mild
and gentle. The fprings of the Obrimas, which ran likewiſe
into the Mæander, were on the borders of Pifidia. The Marfyas
has been ftiled the moſt tranfparent river of Phrygia; and The
Cataract, from its falling down the rock with a mighty noiſe.
←
THE Mæander, augmented by the three rivers, after wan-
dering through the Apamene plain, proceeded, larger and deeper,
with many windings, from the paſtures of Phrygia into the
vine-clad province of the Carians; which it divided from Lydia
near the plain properly called The Maandrian, where the bed was
crooked in an uncommon degree. This, or the Upper Caria,
ending, it flowed quietly into that of the Ionians, increaſed by
the acceffion of numerous ftreams, and, after vifiting many towns,
and fertilizing with its flime the fair plains, ſmoothly entered the
ſea; which perhaps once waſhed the foot both of Celænæ and of
Signia. The river was navigable a confiderable way above the
mouth, and one Melefander is recorded as having gone on it
with his ſhips into the Upper Caria. Its eels were much prized
by the antient epicures; and its banks were remarkably clothed
with tamariſks.
THE people of Apamea, though inland, were worship-
pers of Neptune. The reafon, it has been conjectured, was,
that they had fuffered often from earthquakes, of which he was
fuppofed the author. Mithridates gave an hundred talents to-
ward the reſtoration of the city; which, it is fard, had likewife
been
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.. 239
1
been overthrown in the time of Alexander. Their tribute-money
was remitted to them for five years on the fame account under
the emperor Tiberius. The fubterraneous paffage of the Lycus
and the other ſtreams fhowed that the ground had many cavi-
ties; and thefe, it has been furmiſed, rendered the region very
liable to be fhaken. Between Laodicea and Apamea was a muddy
lake of falt-water, which had a private vent: and the name Ce-
Iænæ has been interpreted to denote the colour of the ftones and
the blackneſs occafioned by fiery eruptions.
XERXES on his expedition into Greece came by Celænæ and
the falt lake to Coloffæ and Cydrara, where was the boundary of
the Lydians and Phrygians. He then entered Lydia, and the
road dividing, the left branch leading into Caria, the right to-
ward Sardes, took the latter; on which it was neceffary to pafs
the Mæander. Laodicea did not then exiſt, but, it is probable,
he marched by the fite, as his rout to Sardes appears to have been
nearly the fame with that which we fhall purfue after leaving
Hierapolis, and recovering the main road from Laodicea weft-
ward.
CHA P. LXXI.
Picenini's journey to Chonos
Chonos - ·Remarks
Iſhecleb --- Remarks.
To Pambouk
Pocock's journey to
Pocock's journey continued --- Dinglar-
THE reader may be introduced to a farther knowlege of the
region, which is the fubject of the preceding chapter, by an ex-
tract from the diary of Picenini, and from the travels of an au-
thor, by whom its antient geography is greatly miſtaken.
PICENINI, with his companions, fet out from Laodicea, and
proceeded two hours, when they paffed through a pleaſant wood
of tall trees; and after three hours more, came to a village called
Chonos
240 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
Chonos, which has been ſuppoſed Coloffe. It ſtands under a
very high and almoſt inacceffible hill, the cottages on the fteep
or acclivity, from which they had a view over the plain from
the eaſt to the ſouth-weſt. Here they found the Greeks ignorant
of their own language. Their church, which was in the caftle
on the hill, reſembled a wine-vault. Their papas or prieſt was
of Cyprus, and had the care of about forty families, of the ſame
progeny as the Turks.
LEAVING this place at ten in the morning, and paffing a ri-
ver, they faw foon after for the ſpace of a mile pieces of columns,
ruined inſcriptions, and other remains; and alſo, ſeveral irregular
winding channels, with a current, as they conjectured, of mi-
neral water. Then directing their courfe more to the weft, in
three hours they came to a river and a plane-tree; and going on,
in leſs than an hour and a half had Pambouk in view on their
right hand.
Pocock went from Denifli to the north-eaſt, by a large ſtream
called Sultan Emir, which he fuppofes the Cadmus, running
near that corner of the mountains, from which the hills of Lao-
dicea begin, and falling into the Lycus about, a league to the eaſt
of that place. He paffed the Lycus at a bridge by an old khan,
called Accan, well-built, of white marble from fome antient
ruin. Mount Cadmus turns here to the eaſt, and continues
about fix miles. At the northern foot of it is a rock, where So-
ley Bey commonly refided, and had eleven pieces of cannon for
his defence; and a village underneath, which is that ſuppoſed to
be Coloffa. All over the plain were ſmall channels for water,
then dry, incrufted like thofe of Pambouk.
CHONOS feems to have had the fame affinity with Coloffæ as
Denifli with Laodicea. The river, which Picenini paſſed on
leaving Chonos, was probably the Lycus; and the ruins, which
fucceeded, the remains of Coloffa. The other river muſt have
been the Mæander. Pocock does not diftinguish between Cho-
nos
ચ
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 241
جدهمر
nos and Coloffæ. He has miſtaken the Lycus for Cadmus; and
the Mæander, as feveral other travellers have done, for the
الحمر
Lycus.
Pocock continued his journey eastward from Chonos; when,
a little farther on, the hills, ran for about two leagues to the
north, and then turning toward the eaſt again, were the fouthern
boundary of a fine vale about one league wide, and four long. On
the fouth fide of theſe hills are waters, like thofe of Hierapolis,
incruſting the flope with a white petrification; and on the op-
poſite fide are other hot waters. He came to the foot of the high
hills on the north of this vale, where was an encampment of
Turcomans, and croffed over the woody mountain to the north-
eaſt to a village, where he paffed the night. He went on in this
fmall plain, which leads on the north-weſt into the great plains
of the Mæander, where the river runs along on the weft fide for
about twelve miles, and then goes in between the hills. He
deſcribes the Mæander as running to the weſt, at the diſtance of
eight miles from the north end of the plain, and as turning ſouth
from near the weſt ſide.
WE are now, with Pocock, not far from the junction of the
Marfyas with the Mæander; for he mentions a plain uniting
with this and extending to the eaſt, about two leagues wide and
four long, with a high hill and a village called Dinglar at the
eaft end, where he was told, a river rifes, and falls down a hill
from a lake at the top; and where, as he was informed, are
ruins.
He went on, over the Meander, where it croffes the large
plain, to a village on the north fide; and the next day after tra-
velling eight miles came to a town, called Iſhecleh, under the
hills, which are at the north end of the plain; beneath one,
which is very high and fteep, and has on it fome remains of an
}
Hh
antient
1
}
242
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINQR.
P
antient fortreſs. In the town were many pieces of pillars, and
wrought ſtones, and imperfect infcriptions, but it is moſt rec
markable for its delightful fituation at the fources of a river now
called Ochieuſe, which riſes at the foot of the mountain in eight
or nine streams. Some of thefe are large, and very clear and
all foon unite, and run through the plain into the Maander.
He fuppofes the two rivers at Ifhecleh and Dinglar to be four-
teen miles apart.
4
3.
THE reader will remember that Apamea was in the way from
Laodicea to the caft, as Dinglar now is; and that there was The
Cataract of the river Marfyas, and not its rife, which was fome
miles diftant, on the road, which Pocock took, leading into
Phrygia; and moreover, that the fprings both of the Marfyas
and of the Mæander were at Celana, which, I think, is evi-
dently Ifhecleh. The plain between the two places is bounded
to the north and fouth by high hills; and in it is a river, called
Bouarbafha, which falls into the Meander, and is by Pocock
fuppofed to be the Orgas.
1
CHAP.
LXXII
2
Embroiled at Hierapolis --- Retire to our tent
Maandér --- Our conác or refting-place
---Fly ·
Fard the
Booths of the Turco-
mans --- Ruins of Tripolis --- Its hiſtory--- Arrive at Bullada.
WE are now to relate the occafion of our ſudden departure
from Hierapolis. While we were bufy at the theatre, the Aga
of a village eastward came to bathe with a confiderable retinué,
and two of his men fummoned our Janizary to appear before
him. He was fitting in the fhade of the gymnafium, and among
"the Turks with him were a couple, whom we had treated on the
+
preceding
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
243
preceding day with coffee. The Aga alledged, that we had
knowlege of hidden treaſure, and had already filled our provi-
fion-chefts, which he had ſeen by the tent, with it; and de-
manded one of them for his fhare. He treated the Janizary as
mocking him, when he endeavoured to explain the nature of our
errand, and the manner, in which we had been employed. The
Janizary returned to us at the theatre, exclaiming, as at Eſki-
hiffar, that we were among rebels and robbers; that neither
equity, our Firhman, or the Grand Signior would avail ùs;
that, unleſs we would repent too late, it behoved us to haften
away. He was prevailed on, however, to remonftrate again;
but the Aga infifted on his claim with threatenings, if we did
not ſpeedily comply.
Ir feemed an exorbitant fum would be requifite to glut this
extortioner and his dependants; and, if he were gratified, we
might ftill expect other Agas to follow his example, and be har-
raffed, until we were quite ftripped of our money. The diſpute
growing very ſerious, we were apprehenfive of immediate viɔ-
lence; and it was deemed prudent to retire by the cauſey to our
tent. At the ſame time, his two men, who had tarried by us,
mounted their horfes with viſible chagrin, and rode off, as was
furmiſed, to the village with orders.
On our arrival at the tent we held a confultation, when the
Janizary warmly urged the peril of our prefent fituation; that
the frontier of the Cuthayan Pafhalike, in which we were, was
inhabited by a lawleſs and defperate people, who committed
often the moſt daring outrages with impunity. He recom-
mended the regaining, as fast as poffible, the Pafhalike of Gu-
zel-biffar. It was indeed the general defire, that we might re-
move from a region, in which we had already experienced fo
much ſolicitude, and where our ſafety for a moment was deemed
precarious. Our men were alert in ftriking the tent, and load-
t
A
"Cuthaya, antiently Cotyæjum in Phrygia.
Hh 2
ing
244
MINO´R.
TRAVELS IN ASIA
2
"
ing our baggage; and at nine in the morning we fled from Pame
bouk, under the conduct of our Janizary.
铸
​*
WE forded the Meander by a wooden bridge for foot-paffen-
gers, with the water up to the bellies of our horfes. We rode
through a court before the houfe of the Aga, with whom we
had first treated, and faw there fome marble fragments, proba
bly removed from the adjacent ruins. The village is exceedingly
mean and ſmall.
*
KEEPING up the plain to recover the road from Laodicea to
Magnefia, we had on our left a narrow and deep water-courſe,
The ſtream, at an over-ſhot mill, was turned from its channel,
and permitted at intervals to run into the corn-fields. The rills
alfo from the mountain were conducted into lands recently
ploughed, on which cranes were ſtalking to devour infects or rep-
tiles diftreffed by the moisture. We hurried on, apprehenfive of:
being purſued, until we were oppofite the fnowy fummit, be-
neath which we had pitched our tent, going to Deniſli.. We
found there a company of Turks, and alighted to dine near them.
under fome trees, which grow by a fountain. Theſe repafts
were uſually followed by fleep on a carpet in the fhade.
THE travellers, with whom our men converfed, informed
them, that the Turcomans, encamped in the plain on the other
fide of the Mæander, had very lately plundered fome caravans,
and cut off the heads of the people who oppoſed them.
We
diſliked this intelligence, and fet out again after two hours,
fearing we might be benighted among them. Leaving the road
to Magnefia on the left hand, we came in half an hour to a
crazy wooden bridge, over a rapid river, falling, lower-down,
into the Mæander. This river had a wooden bridge on piles,
which we paffed, with one of ftone, in view, higher up the
ftream, confifting of a fingle arch. The plain was.
The plain was here very
wide and ſmooth, and covered with the black booths of the
Turcomans. Our Janizary appeared as one half frantic, if he
diſcovered
}
3
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 245
}
difcovered any of the company ftraggling or loitering on the
way. We puſhed brifkly acroſs, and then travelled weftward in
a green and pleafant recefs of the mountain Meffogis.
On entering the recefs, we had on our right hand, at a diſtance,
the ruins of Tripolis. Smith relates, that he ſaw there only
huge ftones, lying confuſedly in heaps, befides veftiges of a
theatre and of a caſtle. We could plainly diſcern the naked fite
of the former on the flope of Meffogis, and beneath it maſſes of
wall, remnants of the fortrefs. About half an hour to the weſt
is a flouriſhing town or village. A ſtream, of which we had a
diſtinct view from the mountains, the next morning, winds not
far off in the plain, and has been miſtaken by ſeveral travellers for
the Mæander. Smith forded it near Tripolis, in his way to
Pambouk, where he arrived about four hours after.
TRIPOLIS is the place, where St. Bartholomew taught, and
St. Philip is ſaid to have ſuffered martyrdom. It was afterwards
the fee of a biſhop. John Ducas, furnamed Vatazes, the ſe-
cond emperor of Nice, had an interview there with the Turkiſh
Sultan in 1244. It was enlarged and fortified by Ducas for a
bulwark to cover Philadelphia. In 1306 it was in the poffef-
fion of the Turks, who had beſieged and taken it by ſtratagem;
and Alifuras made from it his incurfions into the empire. It is
Not mentioned by Strabo; but in the Antonine Itinerary is placed
twelve miles from Hierapolis, and thirty three from Philadel-
phia; and in Peutinger's Table, from Tralles fifteen.
We rode on by fine crops of barley, with a large water-courſe-
on our left hand; and, after nine hours, arrived in the duſk of
evening at Bullada, a Turkiſh town; the houſes numerous and
ſcattered on flopes, with a bridge croffing the bed of a torrent,
then dry. We were lodged in a new khan, ſmall, but unuſually
neat; and from the windows, in the morning, had an extenſive:
}
Survey of the Seven Churches. p. 245.
1
view
246
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
view over the plain. We could fee part of the white cliff of
Hierapolis. On enquiry, we found that we were now only a
journey of about four days from Smyrna, going the direct
road; and were affured, that the Plague raged there with
uncommon fury.
་
CHA P.
LXXIII.
}
Mode of living
Mount Tmolys
mene --- The river Hermus
3
The region named Catakekau-
Arrive at Ala-fhabir.
-*
OUR mode of living in this tour had been more rough,
than can well be deſcribed. We had endeavoured to avoid, ás
much as poffible, communicating with the people of the coun-
try; and had commonly pitched our tent by fome well, brook,
or fountain near a village, where we could purchaſe eggs, fowls,
fruits, wine, rakí or brandy, and the like neceffaries; with
bread, which was often gritty and of the moſt ordinary kind.
We had feldom pulled off our clothes at night; fleeping fome-
times with our boots and hats on, as by day; a portmanteau or
large ſtone ſerving inſtead of pillow or bolſter. But one confi-
+
deration had ſoftened the fenfations of fatigue, and fweetened
all our hardships. It was the comfortable reflection, that we
enjoyed our liberty, and were, as we conceived, at a diftance
from the plague; but now we were about to lofe that fatisfac-
tion, and at every ftage to approach nearer to the feat of
infection.
E
We had agreed to viſit Ala-ſhahir' or Philadelphia; and ſet-
ting out in the morning, afcended the mountain, which is Mef-
fogis, and turned to the north-west, through a cultivated tract,
the way good, to hills green with flowering fhrubs, and in par-
ticular with Labdanum. The air partook of their fragrancy,
1
Τ
Allahſcheyr The City of God.
and
}
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
247
A
After
and diſpenſed to as the fweet odours of mount Tmolus.
five hours we alighted, and dined beneath a tree by a well. We
then entered a deep narrow track, and came in two hours more
to a village, and pitched our tent on a dry spot; with an old
poalle on the mountain on our left hand, and before us an exten-
five plain, in which the river Hermus runs.
THIS region, which is above, or to the raft of, Philadelphia,
was named Catakekaumene or Underburnt. By fome it was
reckoned in Myfia, by others in Mæonia or Lydia. It was five
hundred ſtadia or fixty two miles and a half long, and four hun-
dred ſtadia or fifty miles broad; and antiently covered with vines,
which produced the wine called by its name, and eſteemed not
inferior to any in goodneſs. The furface of the plain, which is
now turf, was then ſpread with aſhes; and the range of moun-
tains was ftony and black, as from a conflagration, which fome,
who fabled that Typho was deftroyed there, fuppofed to have
been occafioned by lightening; but earth-born fire was con-
cerned inſtead of the giant and Jupiter. This was evident from
three pits, which they called Phyfe or the Bellows, diftant from
each other about forty ftadia or five miles, with rough hills
above them, formed, it was believed, by cinders from their vol-
-canoes. The wits of old obferving, that fuch places were pe-
culiarly fertile in vines, affirmed, alluding to the ſtory of Semele,
it was no fiction that Bacchus was begotten by fire.
ነ
THE river Hermus, which divides this plain, begun near
Dorylæum, a city of Phrygia Epictetos; rifing on the mountain
Dindymus, which was facred to Cybele the mother of the gods.
From this region it flowed into the Sardian, received the Phry-
gius, which ſeparated Phrygia from Caria, and alſo many other
freams from Myfia and Lydia, in its way to the fea.
In the morning we defcended from the mountain, and wind-
ing toward the left, foon after met a cow laden with the dwel
ling, the goods, and chattels of a Turcoman family; a very
grotefque
248 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
groteſque and rifible figure. A woman followed, trudging on
foot, with a child at her back, her naked breaſts hanging
down before her. In half an hour we croffed a ſtream running
eaſtward; and then paffed by a fpot, where a number of the
Turcomans were loading their camels, and bufied in removing
their booths, their wives, children, and cattle. We entered
the caravan-road from Angora to Smyrna, when our courfe be-
came weſt, with mount Tmolus on our left hand; and arrived
in three hours and a half at Ala-ſhahir.
*
CHA P. LXXIV.
A
Of Philadelphia Its modern hiftory--- The prefent town ---
mineral Spring, and the fuppofed wall of bones Difufe of the
Greek tongue Civility of the people News of the Plague
Arrive at Sardes.
ATTALUS Philadelphus, brother of Eumenes, was the
founder of Philadelphia, which ſtood on a root of mount
Tmolus, by the river Cogamus. The frequent earthquakes,
which it experienced, were owing to its vicinity with Catakekau-
menė. Even the city-walls were not fecure, but were ſhaken
almoſt daily, and difparted. The inhabitants lived in perpetual
apprehenfion, and were always employed in repairs. They were
few in number, the people refiding chiefly in the country, and
cultivating the foil, which was fertile.
JOHN Ducas, the Greek general, to whom Laodicea fubmit-
ted, took Philadelphia, with Sardes, by affault, in 1097. It
was again reduced, about the year 1106, under the fame em-
peror, without difficulty. Two years after, the Turks marched
from the Eaſt, with a deſign to plunder it and the maritime
cities. In
In 1175 the emperor Manuel, falling into an ambuf-
cade of the Turks, not far from the fources of the Meander,
retired
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 249
retired to Philadelphia. In the divifion of the conqueſts of Sul-
tan Aladin in 1300, the inner parts of Phrygia, as far as Cilicia
and Philadelphia, fell by lot to Karamân. The town in 1306
was befieged by Alifuras, who took the forts near, and diſtreſſed
it, but retired on the approach of the Roman army. The Tri-
polines requeſted fuccour from the general, on his way by Kliara;
and he defeated the enemy at Aulak. It is related, that the Phi-
ladelphians deſpiſed the Turks, having a tradition, that their
city had never been taken. After this exploit, the Grand Duke
Roger returned hither, by the forts of Kula and Turnus, and
exacted money. In 1391 Philadelphia ſingly refuſed to admit
Bajazet; but wanting provifions was forced to capitulate. Cineis,
after his reconciliation with Amir prince of Ionia, drew over to
his intereft this place, with Sardes, Nymphéum, and the coun-
try as far as the Hermus.
Ir was antiently matter of furprize, that Philadelphia was
not abandoned; and yet it has furvived many cities leſs liable to
earthquakes, and continues now a mean, but confiderable town,
of large extent, ſpreading on the flopes of three or four hills.
Of the wall, with which it has been encompaffed, many rem-
nants are ſtanding, but with large gaps. The materials of this
fortification are fmall ftones, with ftrong cement. It is thick
and lofty, and has round towers. On the top, at regular dif-
tances, were a great number of nefts, each as big as a bufhel;
with the cranes, their owners, by them, fingle or in pairs.
The bed of the Cogamus, which is on the north-eaft fide, was
almoſt dry. The French traveller, Paul Lucas', has miſtaken
this place for Laodicea.
GOING a little up the Cogamus, between the mountains, in
the bank on the right hand, is a ſpring of a purgative quality,
much eſteemed and reſorted to in the hot months. It tafted like
ink, is clear, and tinges the earth with the colour of ochre.
1 V. I. p. 306.
I i
Farther
250
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
>
Farther up, beyond the town, on the left hand, is the wall,
which, it has been faid, was built with human bones, after a
maffacre, by one of the Sultans. That wonder is the remnant
of a duct, which has cònveyed water of a petrifying quality,
as at Laodicea. This incrufted fome vegetable ſubſtances, which
have periſhed, and left behind, as it were, their molds. It was
now partly fallen, but ferved as a fence between two corn-fields.
The whole is much decayed, the pieces eafily breaking and
crumbling.
T
THE biſhop of Philadelphia was abſent, but the proto-papas
or chief prieſt, his ſubſtitute, whom we went to viſit, received
us at his palace, a title given to a very indifferent houſe, or rather
a cottage, of clay. We found him ignorant of the Greek tongue,
and were forced to diſcourſe with him, by an interpreter, in the
Turkiſh language. He had no idea that Philadelphia exiſted be-
fore chriſtianity, but told us it had become a city in conſequence
of the many religious foundations. The number of churches he
reckoned at twenty four, moftly in ruins, and mere maffes of wall
decorated with painted faints. Only fix are in a better condi-
tion, and have their prieſts. The epiſcopal church is large, and
ornamented with gilding, carving, and holy portraits. The
Greeks are about three hundred families, and live in a friendly
intercourſe with the Turks, of whom they fpeak well. We
were affured that the clergy and laity in general knew as little of
Greek as the proto-papas; and yet the liturgies and offices of
the church are read as elſewhere, and have undergone no altera-
tion on that account.
THE Philadelphians are a civil people. One of the Greeks
fent us a ſmall earthen veffel full of choice wine. Some fami-
lies beneath the trees, by a rill of water, invited us to alight,
and partake of their refreſhments. They faluted us, when we
met; and the aga or governor, on hearing that we were Franks,
bade us welcome by a meſſenger.
• See Rycaut---and Woodward's Catalogue of foreign Foffils. p. 11.
PHILA-
3
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
251
&
1
PHILADELPHIA poffeffing waters excellent in dying, and
being fituated on one of the moft capital roads to Smyrna, is
much frequented, eſpecially by Armenian merchants. The khan,
in which we lodged, was very filthy, but full of paſſengers.
Mules arrived almoſt hourly, and were unladen in the area. As
a caravan goes regularly to Smyrna, and returns on ftated days,
we were uneafy here, and afraid of infection. The accounts
now given us of the plague and of the havoc it was making,
were ſuch, that the moſt intrepid perſon might reaſonably ſhud-
der with horror and apprehenfion.
We ſet out at nine in the morning from Philadelphia for
Sardes, diftant twenty eight miles, according to the Antonine
Itinerary. Mount Tmolus was on our left hand, confiſting of
uneven, ſeparate, fandy hills, in a row, green and pleaſant, once
clothed with vines, but now neglected. Behind them was a
high ridge covered with fnow. The plain, befides the Hermus,
which divides it, is well watered by rills from the flopes. It is
wide, beautiful, and cultivated; but has few villages, being
poffeffed by the Turcomans, who, in this region, were reputed
thieves, but not given to blood-fhed. Their booths and cattle
were innumerable. We ſtopped after an hour, at a handſome
fountain. The ciſtern was a farcophagus, carved with feftoons.
On it is inſcribed in Greek "Of Appius ;" and in an old bury-
ing-ground near it were ſome marble fragments. We travelled
three hours and a half north-weftward; and as long weftward.
We met numerous caravans, chiefly of mules, on the road; or
ſaw them by its fide feeding on the green paſture, their burthens
lying on the ground; the paffengers fitting in groups eating, or
ſleeping on the grafs. We pitched our tent about funfet, and
the next day, after riding two hours in the fame direction, ar-
rived at Sardes, now called Sart.
*
Ii 2
CHAP.
2
252
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
CHAP. LXXV.
Of Sardes and its Acropolis—Taken by Cyrus-The town burnt by
the Ionians. Surrenders to Alexander the Great Suffers from
an earthquake — Its later hiftory-The theatre-
The theatre - The "affault
under Antiochus-Other remains—The hill, and the river Pac-
tolus---The village Ruin of a temple.
LYDIA was celebrated for its city Sardes, which was of
great antiquity, though pofterior to the war of Troy. It was
enriched by the fertility of the foil, and had been the capital of
the Lydian kings. It was feated on the fide of mount Tmolus,
and the Acropolis' was remarkable for its ftrength. This was
on a lofty hill; the back part, or that toward Tmolus, a per-
pendicular precipice. One of the kings, an anceſtor of Croefus,
it is related, believed, that by leading a lion about the wall he
ſhould render the fortrefs impregnable, and neglected that por
tion of it as totally inacceffible.
3
+
CROESUS, who was tyrant or king of all the nations within
the river Halys, engaging Cyrus, who had followed him into
Lydia, was defeated in the plain before the city, the Lydian
horſes not enduring the fight or ſmell of the camels. Cyrus then
beſieged him, and offered a reward for the perfon, who ſhould
firſt mount the wall. One of his foldiers had feen a Lydian
defcend. for his helmet, which had rolled down the back of the
Acropolis. He tried to aſcend there, where not even a centinel
was placed, and fucceeded. Afterwards the Perfian fatrapas, or
commandant, refided at Sardes, as the emperor did at Sufa.
In the time of Darius, the Mileſians failed to Epheſus, and
leaving their veffels at mount Coriffus, marched up by the river
1 See a view and a plan of the ruins in Peyfonell's Travels.
Cayſter,
7
TRAVELS
253
IN ASIA MINOR.
Cayfter, and croffing mount Tmolus, furprized the city, except
the Acropolis, in which was a numerous garrifon. A foldier
fet fire to one of the houſes, which were thatched, and
ſently the town was in flames. The Ionians retreated to Tmo-
lus, and in the night to their ſhips,
pre-
THE city and Acropolis ſurrendered on the approach of Alex-
ander, after the battle of the Granicus. He encamped by the
river Hermus, which was twenty ftadia or two miles and a half
diſtant. He went up to the Acropolis, which was then fortified
with a triple wall, and refolved to erect in it a temple and altar
to Jupiter Olympius, on the fite of the royal palace of the
Lydians.
SARDES under the Romans was a large city, and not inferior
to any of its neighbours, until the terrible earthquake, which
happened in the time of Tiberius Cæfar. Magneſia by Sipylus,
Philadelphia, Laodicea, Ephefus, and feveral more cities par-
took largely in that calamity, but this place fuffered prodigiously,
and was much pitied. The munificence of the emperor was
nobly exerted to repair the various damages, and Sardes owed
its recovery to Tiberius.
·
THE emperor Julian made Chryfanthius, a Sardian, of a fe-
natorial family, pontiff of Lydia. He attempted to reſtore the
heathen worſhip, erecting temporary altars at Sardes, where none
had been left, and repairing the temples, if any veftiges re-
mained. In the year 400, the Goths under Tribigild and Caianas,
officers in the Roman pay, who had revolted from the emperor
Arcadius, plundered this city. In the fubfequent troubles in
Afia, the natives in general were compelled to retire for ſafety
to the hills and ftrong holds. At Sardes they permitted the
Turks, on an incurfion of the Tartars in 1304, to occupy a por-
tion of the Acropolis feparated by a ftrong wall with a Gate, and
afterwards murdered them in their ſleep.
THE
254
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
THE fite of this once noble city was now green and flowery.
Coming from the eaſt, we had the ground-plat of the theatre on
our left hand, with a ſmall brook near us, running before it.
This ftructure was in a brow, which unites with the hill of the
Acropolis, and was called Prion. Some pieces of the vault, which
fupported feats, and completed the femicircle, remain.
*
It was on this fide the effort was made, which gave Antio-
chus poffeffion of Sardes. An officer had obferved that vulturs
and birds of prey gathered there about the offals and dead
bodies thrown into the hollow by the befieged, and inferred that
the wall, ſtanding on the edge of the precipices, was neglected
as fecure from any attempt. He ſcaled it with a reſolute party,
while Antiochus called off the attention both of his own army
and of the enemy by a feint; marching as if he intended to attack
the Perfian gate. Two thouſand foldiers ruſhed in at the gate
opened for them, and took their poft at the theatre, when the
town was plundered and burned.
GOING on, we paffed by remnants of maffy buildings; mar-
ble piers ſuſtaining heavy fragments of arches of brick; and
more indiſtinct ruins. Theſe are in the plain before the hill of
the Acropolis. On our right hand, near the road, was a portion
of a large edifice, with a heap of ponderous materials before and
behind it. The walls are ſtanding of two large, lofty, and very
long rooms, with a ſpace between them, as of a paffage. This
remain, it has been conjectured, was the houſe of Croefus',
once appropriated by the Sardians, as a place of retirement, to
ſuperannuated citizens. It was called the Gerufia, and in it, as
fome Roman authors have remarked, was exemplified the ex-
treme durability of the antient brick. The walls in this ruin
have double arches beneath, and confift chiefly of brick, with
layers of ſtone. The bricks are exceedingly fine and good, of
› See Peyfonell.
A
various
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
255
various fizes, ſome flat, and broad. We employed a man to pro-
cure one entire, but the cement proved ſo very hard and tena-
cious, it was next to impoffible. Both Croefus and Mauſolus,
neither of whom could be ſuſpected of parfimony, had uſed this
material in the walls of their palaces. It was infenfible of de-
cay; and, it is afferted, if the walls were erected true to their
perpendicular, would, without violence, laft for ever.
THE hill of the Acropolis appears from the plain to be tri-
angular. It is fandy, and the fides rough. The fortreſs is aban-
doned, but has a double wall, as in 1304, fronting the plain,
befides out-works, in ruins. The eminence affords a fine prof-
pect of the country, and in the walls are two or three fragments
with infcriptions. Not far from the west end is the celebrated
river Pactolus, which rifes in mount Tmolus, and once flowed
through the middle of the Agora or market-place of Sardes
in its way to the Hermus, bringing down from the mountain
bits of gold. The treafures of Croefus and of his anceſtors
were collected chiefly from the river, but in time that fource
failed. The Pactolus, after fnow or rain is a torrent. The
ſtream was now ſhallow, the bed fandy, in colour inclining to a
reddiſh yellow.
+
BEYOND the fuppofed Gerufia, we turned from the road to
the left, and paffing the miferable village Sart, which ſtands,
with a ruinous mofque, above the river, on a root or fpur of the
hill of the Acropolis, croffed the Pactolus, and pitched our tent
in a flowery meadow. Not far from us were booths of the
Turcomans, with their cattle feeding. Some of them joined us,
and one or two wanted rakí or brandy, but were told we had
none. A ſmall gratuity was required for the Aga of the village,
which was oppofite to our tent.
AFTER refting awhile, we were conducted toward the moun-
tain, and ſuddenly ſtruck with the view of a ruin of a temple,
near us, in a moft retired fituation, beyond the Pactolus, and
between
مية
•
*
256
TRAVELS IN
ASIA MINOR.
between the hill of the Acropolis and mount Tmolus. Five
columns are ſtanding, one without the capital; and one with
the capital awry to the ſouth. The architrave was of two ſtones.
A piece remains on one column, but moved ſouthward; the
other part, with the column, which contributed to its fupport,
has fallen fince the year 1699. Oné capital was then diſtorted,
as was imagined, by an earthquake, and over the entrance of
the Naos was a vaſt ſtone, which occafioned wonder by what art
or power it could be raiſed. That fair and magnificent portal,
as it is ftiled by the relater', has fince been deſtroyed; and in
the heap lies that moſt huge and ponderous marble. Part of one
of the antæ is ſeen about four feet high. The foil has accumu-
lated round the ruin; and the baſes, with a moiety of each co-
lumn, are concealed; except one, which was cleared by Mr.
Wood. This was probably the temple dedicated to the local
goddeſs Cybebe or Cybele, and which was damaged in the
conflagration of Sardes by the Milefians. It was of the Ionic
order, and had eight columns in front. The reader, who re-
collects the embarraſſment of Metagenes in building the temple
of Diana at Ephefus, where a fimilar maſs of marble was placed
over the entrance, will be inclined to pronounce, that both fa-
brics were planned by the fame bold and enterprizing architects.
The ſhafts are fluted, and the capitals defigned and carved with
exquifite taſte and ſkill. It is impoffible to behold, without
deep regret, this imperfe&t remnant of ſo beautiful and glorious
an edifice.
Chifhull.
2 See Sophocles. Philoctet. 390.
ศ
CHAP.
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 257
1
CHA P. LXXVI.
Road to Ephefus Lariffa
Lariſſa — Afis
- Afis
Hypæpa - Birghé —Road
from Pergamum to Sardes.
IN the preceding chapter we have mentioned an expedition
of the Milefians. The diſtance of Sardes from Ephefus was five
hundred and forty ftadia or fixty ſeven miles and a half; and the
hiftorian Herodotus, who relates their enterprize, reckons a day's
journey one hundred and fifty ſtadia or eighteen miles and three
quarters. The way to Ephefus from Sardes was over Tmolus,
which is deſcribed as a compact mountain, of a moderate extent,
having its boundaries in Lydia. On one of the fummits was a
watch-tower, erected by the Perfians, of which perhaps the ruin
is ſtill extant; an Hexedra, or building with fix fides or feats, of
white marble. From it were beheld the adjacent plains, and
în părticular that of the Cayfter.
IN the plain of the Cayfter was Lariffa, an Ephefian village,
but once a city; and there was a temple of Apollo. Strabo
mentions a prieſt of Jupiter of Lariffa as his contemporary, and
a man of eminence at Tralles. The foil was fruitful in vines.
Lariffa was nearer to mount Tmolus than to Ephefus, from
which place it was diſtant one hundred and eighty ſtadia or
twenty two miles and a half. It was thirty ftadia or three miles
and three quarters from Nyfa, lying above that city, the way to
it through Meffogis, probably at the gap. beyond Noſli-Bazar,
by the temple of Mater Ifodrome, or Cybele of the Plain. This
diſtrict, in which the Cayfter riſes, is likely to afford the curious
traveller fome ruins, with much pleaſure and fatisfaction. The
Cayftrian plain was contiguous eastward with the Cilbianian,
which was large, fertile, and well inhabited.
K k
THE
258 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
1
+
THE tract between mount Tmolus and Meffogis is a portion
of the region named Afis; and, being meadowy, was much
frequented by geefe, cranes, and fwans. There, it has been
faid, you might liften to them, fitting on Tmolus in the ſpring
ſeaſon, or fee them feeding in the graſs; arriving in vaft com-
panies, and ſettling, or flying away, and making the Cayſter and
the Aſian marſh refound with their noify clamour. The Afian
marſh is now perhaps dry ground.
Ar the foot of Tmolus, defcending toward the Cayftrian
plain, was the fmall town, Hypæpa, where the Perfians of
Lydia had a temple ferved by Magi. An author, who lived in
the fecond century, relates, that he ſaw there an altar in a cell,
with aſhes on it, differing in colour from common aſhes; that
the Magus or prieſt entered the cell, and heaped dry wood on
the altar; that he then put the tiara or facred fillet round his
head, and invoked the deity, chanting from a book in a barba-
rous language unintelligible to the Greeks, when the fewel
lighted ſpontaneouſly, and a clear flame was produced. The
fame wonder was performed at Hierocæfarea in Lydia, at the
temple dedicated by king Cyrus to the Perfian Diana,
HYPAPA is now a town called Birghé, and has two very
handſome mofques. It is probable a fortreſs with towers (Пupya)
was erected there to command the paſs of mount Tmolus, and
occafioned the diſuſe of the old name for that of Pyrge, of which
Birghé is a corruption. Pyrge was one of the places, which
fuffered from the exactions of the Grand Duke Roger, general
of the Roman armies in 1306; and thither the body of Amir,
on his ſudden death, was removed by Cineis from Epheſus or
I
"
1 On a medal of this place the goddeſs is reprefented, with a quiver, the
Legend ПEPCIKH or The Perfian; and on the reverfe is an altar, with a fire on it.
A very forced explication of this plain Legend is given in the notes on Pliny.
1. v. c. 31.
+
Aiafalúck,
!
}
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 259
*
}
Aiafalúck, to be buried in the fepulchre of his anceſtors,
in 1403.
*
We ſhall add here the rout to Sardes from the plain of the
Caicus and the city Pergamum', which is thus defcribed: "On
"the eaſt is the city Apollonia, ſeated on an eminence; and
"on the fouth a ridge of mountains. Paffing over this, and
"going toward Sardes, Thyatira is on the left; and on the
" right, Apollonis, diftant three hundred ftadia, thirty feven
"miles and a half, both from Pergamum and from Sardes.
«Then follows the plain of the river Hermus and this city.”
In PEUTINGER'S TABLE.
Pergamum
In the ANTONINE ITINERARY.
Pergamum
Germe
Thyatira
Sardes
Philadelphia
Tripolis
wwwww!
m. p. 25
Germa
Hierapolis
12
Thyatira
Sardes
Philadelphia
Tripolis
Hierapolis
From Thyatira to Smyrna
36
From Sardes to Hypæpa
20
Pergamum has been reckoned fixty miles north of Smyrna,
m. p. 25
33
33
28
33
12
K k 2
CHAP.
i
260 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
$
1
CHAP. LXXVII.
Chiſbull's journey to Birghé To Tyria-
J
Account of Tyria.
To Ephefus
WE fhall give here an abftract of Chifhull's journey, in
1699, from Sardes to Ephefus.
*
THE aſcent of Tmolus is made cafy by windings or traverſes.
The mountain is pleaſant, and garniſhed with an infinite variety
of plants, ſhrubs, and trees. Befides a finé profpect of the
country, the traveller is amufed with impending rocks, perpen-
dicular precipices, and the murmurs of a brook, probably the
Pactolus. On the top, which he gained in four hours, was
fruitful vale, between two lofty ridges; with a vein of marble
as clear and pellucid as alabafter. It was the latter end of April;
but ſnow remained on the fummits, and fupplied a rapid current
defcending into the Pactolus. The air was chilled, and vege-
tation retarded. The trees, which, with a kindlier afpect, were
green and flouriſhing, had not even budded there. After an
hour, he entered a ſtony track, leading down the fouthern fide
of Tmolus. This was fteep and dangerous, or tedious with
windings; but adorned with bright and ſhining particles refem-
bling gold-duft. In five hours he arrived at Birghé.
On the way from Birghé to Ephefus, he forded the Cayfter,
after three hours, not far from an antient bridge of three arches,
ranging with the bank, and witneffing, that the ftream has
changed its channel. He then travelled in a fertile and well
cultivated champaign country, between two high and fnowy
mountains, Tmolus and Meffogis, in a region inexpreffibly
delicious; with frequent villages; and in ſeven hours came to
Tyria.
FROM
ト
​TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
261
.
*
He
FROM Tyria to Epheſus has been reckoned twenty five miles.
The way is in a long, narrow, and almoft deferted vale.
came in feven hours near the end of the Alemán or Gallefus,
on which is the old caftle mentioned in our journey from
Smyrna, The Cayfter was on his right hand, and there
mingled with the Pegaſéan lake, which was large and muddy.
THE approach to Tyria is by a gentle aſcent from the plain.
The houſes are numerous, with trees and gardens intermixed,
It had then about fourteen mofques, one of which was of royal
foundation, as the double minarée fhowed. The Greeks had
two churches. When Tamerlane ravaged Anatolia or the Eaſt,
in 1402, this was one of the principal cities. He marched
to it from Aiafalúck, and forced the inhabitants to pay a ran-
fom. There he was informed of the ſtate of Smyrna. Tyria
was in the intereſt of Cineis, and helped him to recover Ephe-
fus from Sultan Solyman. The antient name, it is fuppofed,
was Tyriæum. Xenophon has mentioned Tyriæum as a popu
lous city, by the plain of the Cayſter.
CHA P. LXXVIII.
We cross the Hermus At Bazocleu
The Gygaan lake
Its
The barrow of
history The coemetery of the Lydian kings
Halyattes
Of the antient Lydians.
BEFORE Sardes, on the oppofite fide of the plain, are
mány barrows on an eminence, fome of which are feen afar off.
We were told, that behind them was a lake; and agreed to viſit
it. We left Sardes in the afternoon, and re-paffed Pactolus,
farther on; the ſtream foul and dull. In an hour we came to
the banks of the Hermus, which was alfo muddy, but wide
and rapid. We forded with the water up to our girths, and then
rode
1
1
262
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
}
rode among huts of the Turcomans; their large and fierce dogs
barking vehemently, and worrying us. The plain now ap-
peared as bounded with mountains. The view weftward was
terminated by a fingle, diftinct, lofty range, the east end of
mount Sipylus.
WE approached near to the green ridge, on which the bar-
rows are, and going on beyond its eastern extremity, pitched
our tent by a village, called Bazocleu. A continual noiſe or
hooting was made to drive away the fmall birds, which lodged
in the corn. We ſaw them changing their quarters, as foon as
moleſted, in troops. A large dog had followed our men, who
fed him, from Sart.
We were on horfeback again, at feven in the morning, and
going north-westward for half an hour, came to the lake, which
lay behind the ridge, extending weftward, and was antiently
called Gygæa. It is large, and abounds in fiſh, its colour and
taſte like common pond-water, with beds of fedge growing in
it. We faw a few fwans with cygnets, and many aquatic birds,
in particular, one ſpecies reſembling a gull, flying about in
flocks, or lighting on the ground. Theſe were white, but
with the whole head black. The air fwarmed with gnats.
SOME very antient hiftorians related, that this lake was made
as a receptacle for the floods, which happened when the rivers
were ſwollen. The Lydians afferted it was perennial, or never
dry. The name had been changed from Gygæa to Coloe; and
by it was a temple of Diana, called Coloene, which was reputed
of great fanctity. A ftory is recorded as current, that on her
feſtivals certain baſkets danced. This probably is the Sardian
Diana, mentioned in an infcription copied by Mr. Peyfonell,
and containing a panegyric on her prieftefs. If the lake be fac-
titious, the ridge may be regarded as an immenſe mound raiſed
with the foil.
Br
今
​TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
263
-+
L
By Gygæa, which was within forty ftadia or five miles of
Sardes, was the burying-place of the Lydian kings. The bar-
rows on the ridge or mound are of various fizes, the fmaller
made perhaps for children or the younger branches of the royal
family. Four or five are diſtinguiſhed by their fuperior magni-
tude. All of them are covered with green turf; and as many as
I obferved, in paffing among them, retain their conical form
without any finking-in of the top.
I'
ONE of the barrows on this eminence, near the middle, and
tóward Sardes, is remarkably conſpicuous, and has been deſcribed
by Herodotus, as the greateſt work in Lydia, inferior only to
the works of the Egyptians and Babylonians. It was the mo-
nument of Halyattes the father of Croefus. The earth was
heaped on a bafement of large ftones. It was fix ſtadia, or three
quarters of a mile, and two plethra in circumference; and
thirteen plethra in width. It was made by three claffes of the
people, the market-men, labourers, and girls who were profti-
tutes. Five termini or pyramidal ſtones remained on the top,
in the time of the hiftorian, with infcriptions, recording what
each had performed; and on a meaſurement it had appeared,
that the greater portion was done by the girls. The mold,
which has been waſhed down, now conceals the baſement; but
that, and perhaps a confiderable treaſure might be diſcovered,
if the barrow were opened.
THE reader, it is likely, will wonder at the great number of
girls, which were employed in this work; and will conceive a
bad opinion of the morals of the Sardians. It was the cuſtom
of the antient Lydians, as the hiſtorian relates, to permit their
daughters to procure their own dowries. In this they deviated
from the Greek laws, which were eſtabliſhed among them.
They were an ingenious people, the inventors of gold and filver
A plethrum was one hundred feet.-
coin,
264 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
}
coin, of wine-taverns, and of feveral games in general uſe. The
femalé Lydians were much admired for the elegance of their
dreſs, the beauty of their perfons, and their wonderful perfor-
mance of a grand, choral, circular dance, in honour of Bacchus.
Ć HA P. LXXIX.
Re-gain the road to Magnefia ---The weather
The weather ---At Durguthli -
To mount Sipylus---Of Sipylus the city and Sale---To Magnefiø
Of Niobe.
AFTER riding an hour by the fide of the calm and noble
lake, we turned to the fouth-west to recover the road from
Sardes to Magnefia by mount Sipylus. We croffed the ridge,
and at eleven again forded the Hermus.
The ftream was very
wide, rapid, and turbid. We entered on the road by three bar-
rows, ranging on the fide cloſe by each other. We ftopped,
after two hours more, near a green barrow, at a neat coffee-hut
by Uran-lui, four hours from Sardes. Our dog, which we had
named Sart, here very wifely forfook us, and, as we fuppofed,
returned to the Turcomans, his old mafters.
THE mountains, when we moved from Bazocleu in the morn-
ing, were all clear, except Sipylus, which was enveloped in
miſt. On the way a ſhower or two fell, which cooled the air,
and had occafioned a delicious freſhneſs and fragrancy. Now
Sipylus was quite hid; and thunder, with violent rain, pro-
ceeded from the black clouds, in which it was enwrapped. At
half after four, the fun broke out, the clouds brightened, and
above them its fummit was difcernible. Thin fleeces were yet
hanging low on the fide of the mountain beyond the Hermus.
AFTER dining under a tree by a clear ftream we rode
briſkly on, and arrived in two hours at Durguthli or Cafabar.
This
TRAVELS
265
IN ASIA MINOR.
:
}
This is a town of confiderable extent, in the plain, with many
minarees of moſques rifing amid trees. The khan was moſt
exceedingly wretched, and our ſtay, though for a ſingle night,
feemed tedious. The place was a great thoroughfare; and the
accounts we received of the malady raging at Smyrna, became
at every ſtage, as we advanced, more terrible as well as more
authentic.
EARLY in the morning we went on toward mount Sipylus.
On our left was an opening into a plain, between that mountain
and the end of mount Tmolus; and beyond it was a lofty ridge
covered with fnow. Magnefia, with the river Hermus, is on
the north-fide of Sipylus. There muſt be the junction of the
three plains, the Sardian, that of the Hermus, and the Cayf-
trian; which have been deſcribed as below, or to the weſt of
Sardes; as contiguous; and as unrivalled in fertility and beauty.
We paffed a wide water-courſe, and a river, and then a ſtream,
after which we came to the extremity of the mountain.
MOUNT Sipylus was antiently noted for frequent thunder.
At Smyrna I had often liftened to the rumbling, and marked
the remote lightning, which gleamed from that quarter. A
city of the fame name as the mountain was once the capital of
Mæonia or Lydia. It was recorded, that, in the time of Tan-
talus, prodigious earthquakes had happened. Then many vil-
lages were abforbed, the city Sipylus was fubverted, and marſhes
were changed into lakes. The credibility of this relation was
demonſtrated, as Strabo remarks, by the dreadful effects of the
earthquake under Tiberius, and the overthrow of Magneſia.
Where Sipylus had ſtood was a marſh called Sale. The moun-
tain terminates on the north-eaſt in a vaſt naked precipice, and
beneath it was a very limpid water, with a ſmall marſn, not
far from a fepulchre cut in the rock. There perhaps was Sale
and the fite of Sipylus.
L 1
1
WE
1
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TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
We travelled on at the foot of the mountain, with the plain
of the Hermus, which is very extenfive, on our right hand.
Our horfes were much jaded, and we fatigued, when, after
eight hours, we reached Magnefia.
66
THE famous ftory of the transformation of Niobe the
daughter of Tantalus, had for its foundation a phænomenon
extant in mount Sipylus. I fhall give an account of this extra-
ordinary curiofity elſewhere. The phantom may be defined,
an effect of a certain portion of light and ſhade on a part of
Sipylus, perceivable at a particular point of view." The
traveller, who fhall vifit Magnefia after this information, is re-
queſted to obſerve carefully a fteep and remarkable cliff, about a
mile from the town; varying his diſtance, while the fun and
ſhade, which come gradually on, paſs over it. I have reaſon to
believe he will fee Niobe.
CHA P. · LXXX.
Hiftory of Magnefia --- The preſent town
A Turkiſh Mausoleum The caftle
---
The royal mofques
Of the Hyllus.
MAGNESIA furrendered to the Romans immediately
after the decifive battle between Scipio and Antiochus. It was
a free city, and ſhared in the bounty of Tiberius Cæfar, next to
Sardes, as fecond in its fufferings from the earthquake. While the
Turks made incurfions into the field of Menomene by Smyrna,
ruining the country, in 1303, the emperor Michael was ſhut up
in this place; from which he eſcaped by night. The Grand
Duke Roger garriſoned it with Italians. The inhabitants roſe
and killed ſome of them; when he befieged the city, but was
forced to retire. In 1313 it ranked among the acquifitions of
In-1313
Sarkhan,
TRAVELS IN ASIA
267
MINOR.
}
Sarkhan, afterwards Sultan of Ionia. It was the city choſen
for his retreat by Morát or Amurath the ſecond in 1443, when
he refigned the empire to his fon Mahomet the ſecond, the con-
queror of Conftantinople.
WE were vifited foon after our arrival at the khan by a
Frenchman, a practitioner in phyfic; who told us that he had
attended Mr. Bouverie in a pleurify at Sanderli'. He con-
ducted us about the town, which retains its antient name, and
is ſtill very extenfive; ſpreading in the plain at the mountain-
foot, on the acclivity of the caſtle-hill, and up a valley on each
fide". It is populous, and has a great trade. The moſques are
numerous; and the Greeks have a large and handfome church,
and alſo a monaſtery.
AMONG the moſques at Magnefia, two have double minarees,
and are very noble ſtructures of marble. Each has before it an
area with a fountain. We were permitted to enter one of them,
which had been lately beautified, leaving our boots or ſhoes at
the door. The infide was as neat as poffible; and the floor co-
vered with rich carpets. The ornamental painting pleaſed by an
odd novelty of defign, and a lively variety of colour. The dome
is lofty, and of great dimenfions. The lamps, which were in-
numerable, many pendant from the cieling, with balls of po-
liſhed ivory intermixed, muft, when lighted, amaze equally by
their artful diſpoſition, their ſplendor, and their multitude.
Theſe edifices, a college of Dervishes, and a bedlam were
erected and endowed by Sultan Morát and his queen.
SULTAN Morát intended to lead a private life at Magnefia.
We were ſhown the fite of his palace, his feraglio, and garden.
The remains are fome pieces of wall, with ſeveral large and
ſtately cypreſs-trees; and near them is a neat Mauſoléum, with
a dome, over the tombs of his wives and children, in number
A ttalia.
2 See a view. Le Brun. p. 37.
Lla
twenty
}
}
1
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TRAVELS IN ASIA
ASIA MINOR.
twenty two, of different fizės, difpofed in three rows, all plain,
and of ſtone.
THE caſtle-hill is exceedingly high, the afcent fteep and
tireſome, with loofe ftones in the way. By the track is a
fountain, with a broken inſcription', and earthen pipes, which
convey water down to the city. It is a mean fortrefs, aban-
doned, and in ruins. The cannon, it is related, were removed
to the Sangiac caftle in the gulf of Smyrna. The recompenfe
of our toil in gaining the fummit was an extenfive view of a
fine verdant plain, divided by the Hermus fhining like filver.
THE Romans obtained their great victory over Antiochus be
tween Thyatira and Sardes, on the banks of the Hyllus, then
called the Phrygius. His camp had that river in front, and
was ſtrongly fortified. Thyatira is diſtant fourteen or fifteen hours
from Magnefia; and the Hyllus defcends by it to the Hermus.
The junction of the two ftreams may fometimes be feen from
the caſtle².
Ċ Ĥ A P. LXXXÍ.
- Infecurity at Magnefia
Our embarraſſment
-- The plague at
Thyatira---Set out for Smyrna ---At Hadgilar ---At Sedicui---
A Greek.
OUR fituation was now become very critical and diftreffing.
We were only eight hours north-eastward from Smyrna. We
were all fufficiently wearied with wandering, and defirous of a
reſpite. Several of our horfes were ſpoiled by the rough ſervice
they had undergone; and fome of our men were anxious for
their families, and uneafy from their long abſence. The dif
abled condition of our little corps, with the general difquietude,
and the riſque in journeying, as well from the ſeaſon as from
1 Heffelius. n. 24.
2 Chifhull. p. 56.
the
}
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
269
t
!
1
the distemper, made us ardently wish for a fecure retreat, but
the difficulty was to find one.
THE malady, it was believed, had not yet reached Magnefia;
but caravans were continually arriving from Smyrna, and it could
fcarcely fail of being ſpeedily imported. In a khan we were
expoſed among the foremoſt to infection. If we obtained ad-
miffion into the Greek monaftery or a private houſe, horror and
momentary peril would be our portion as foon as the plague
commenced; at a diſtance from our countrymen, without friends,
among people fatally ignorant and negligent; in whom we could
place no confidence, and from whom, we, if attacked, could
have little room to expect any attention and regard, or indeed
even fepulture.
44
An Italian quack doctor had vifited us at the khan, and ac-
companied us up to the caftle. He was just arrived from Ak-
hiffar or Thyatira, and affured us, that place was free from con-
tagion. We determined, rather than enter Smyrna without ab-
folute neceffity, to extend our tour thither, and to Pergamum;
hoping, while we were employed on that fide of the Hermus,
a favourable alteration might enfue. The Janizary and Arme-
nians acquiefced, with fome reluctance, and our baggage was
loading, when a papas informed one of my companions, that
he had recent intelligence from Thyatira, and that the plague
was then in the houſe of the Aga. Our whole
Our whole arrangement
was in an inftant overturned; but we agreed immediately to
abandon Magneſia; and, fortunately, as the evil preſaged be-
came manifeſt there very foon after, and the civil Frenchman,
our guide, periſhed among the firſt victims.
We are now on the road to Smyrna. After riding for fome
time at the foot of mount Sipylus, we entered on a track on the
left hand, and croffing the mountain, arrived in the plain of
Hadgilar, a village two hours from Smyrna. We met a few
travellers, whom we paffed with caution, enquiring of them at
a diſtance,
270 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR,
4
a diſtance, and hearing a moft difmal tale. Our terror and
perplexity increaſed as we advanced. We were affured many of
the villages were infected. We were ignorant, whether we
could be admitted into the houſe of the Engliſh conful, and
whether he had remained at Smyrna. Various methods of
giving and procuring the intelligence neceffary for our mutual
fecurity were deviſed, and propofed, and rejected, as unfafe;
when being exceedingly embarraffed, we turned afide from the
road to deliberate, and to repofe awhile among the olive-trees.
SEEING the village of Hadgilar near us, I rode on, followed
by the Swifs, and meeting a peaſant, aſked him, whether any
Frank or European lived there; and was anfwered, Mr. Lee.
I gallopped up to his houfe, and was received with his accuf
tomed cordiality. A prudent regard to the ſafety of his family
forbidding our admiffion within his gate, he ordered liquors and
plenty of provifions for our refreſhment, and with Mr. Maltafs
his partner, and the Abbé D. Giuſeppe Icard, who had been
educated at the college De Propaganda at Rome, and had at-
tended us as our inftructor in the Greek and modern languages,
accompanied me back to the tree, where joy was already dif-
fuſed through our tattered and fun-burnt troop.
4
MR. Lee had referved for us the houſe, which he occupied
the ſummer before at Sedicui. We croffed to it in the evening,
leaving Smyrna, where the plague was very furious, on our
right hand. The next day we difmiffed our men, except the
Swiſs and an Armenian, our cook, who had a couple of horſes,
which we kept for fome time. The Janizary refumed his fta-
tion at the conſul's gate, with the fame compoſure as if unat-
tended with any danger; and the Armenians retired to a fpot
near another village, where many of their nation were affem-
bled, waiting under tents and ſheds until the malady fhould
abate.
1 See a view. Le Brun. p. 400.
1
-
S
WE
}
TRAVELS. IN ASIA MINOR. 271
1
t
WE remained five in number, befides a Greek, who had the
care of the garden, and had been indulged with the privilege of
vending its produce to the villagers; but this occafioning a more
free intercourſe than was confiftent with our fafety, a feparation
followed; after which, his place of abode was in the garden,
on ſome planks laid over a ciftern beneath a ſhed; the furniture
a very few utenfils and tools, a coverlet, a garment or two, fome
dry gourds, and his gun. The danger of infection increaſing,
he accepted a compenſation, and ceaſed to fell. He was in-
trufted with a key of the garden-door folely for his own uſe, but
at times admitted other Greeks, and fat drinking with them to
a late hour, diſturbing us with droning fongs and the melancholy
tinklings of a rude lyre.
CHA P. LXXXII.
}
Of Sedicui
Manner of watering the gardens --- An engine
The mountain--- Our houſe --- Provifions --- Our market-man
Mifconduct of a fervant Manner of living The Tettinx
The Weather
An earthquake.
SEDICUI is a ſmall village with a moſque and a fountain '.
It was inhabited by a few Turks and Greeks, and by two
Franks, with their families; the Count de Hochpied the Dutch
conful, and Mr. Fremaux a merchant of that nation. It is feated
by a flat plain, on which are ſcattered fig, almond, and olive-
trees, with fome bushes; the ſurface then parched, no verdure,
neither weeds nor a blade of graſs. On the weft-fide are moun-
tains, branches of Corax; and on theſe the jackalls howled every
night, beginning about funfet. We were informed, that an
old Turk, with a fnow-white beard, had foretold, that Sedicui.
•
1 See a view.. Le Brun. p. 29.
would
}
}
272
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
would not fuffer from the plague, for their hunting near it was
a favourable prognoftic, which in his memory had never failed.
A
5
A GENTLE afcent led from the village to the roots of mount
Corax, through a corn-field, in which is a fountain fed by clear
rills, carefully conveyed to it along the flopes. Cloſe by is a
ſquare refervoir funk in the ground; from which in the morning
and at evening, when the ftoppage was removed, a ftreamlet ran
babbling over pebbles down to the village to water the gardens.
We had it in our turn, and the garden was ingeniously difpofed
for its reception, a ſmall trench branching out over the whole
area, and each bed having its furrows, with the plants ftanding
on their edges. The current enters at a hole in the wall, and
the gardener attends and directs it with a ſpade or hoe; dam-
ming acroſs the general communication to turn. in into the
parterres, and conducting it about, until the foil is faturated.
4
WHEN it happened that the ſprings were dry, or the allow-
ance not fufficient, the neceffary fluid was raiſed by a machine,
as in the orange-orchards of Scio. It is a large broad wheel
furniſhed with ropes, hanging down and reaching into the water.
Each rope has many cylindrical earthen veffels, faſtened to it by
the handles with bands of myrtle or of maſtic. This apparatus
is turned by a ſmall horizontal wheel, with a horſe or mule
blinded and going round, as in a mill. The jars beneath fill and
arrive in regular fucceffion at the top of the wheel, when they
empty, and return inverted to be again repleniſhed. The trough,
which receives the water, conveys it into a ciſtern to be diſtri-
buted at a proper hour among the drooping vegetables.
ABOVE the corn-field the mountain rofe, brown and arid;
the wild fage and plants crumbling when touched. In the fide
are narrow retired vales worn by torrents, and filled with fpon-
taneous evergreens, thickets of myrtle in bloffom, and groves of
calo-daphne or oleander, the boughs then laden with flowers of
a pale red colour. Amid theſe a flender current trickled down a
rocky
}
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
273
亨
​t
rocky precipice, like tears, to invert the poet's fimile, from the
eyes of Sorrow. The flope afforded a pleafing view of our little
village, and of the country; and from a fummit may be ſeen
part of the gulf of Smyrna. I diſcovered a goat-ſtand in a dale,
on the top, when I was too near to retreat. The favage-looking
ſhepherds called off and chid their dogs, which were fierce and
barked furiously. They were fitting at the mouth of a pen,
feizing the ewes and the ſhe-goats, each by the hind leg, as they
preffed forward, to milk them. Some of the flock or herd were
often by the fountain below with their keeper, who played on a
rude flute or pipe.
foom;
;
OUR houſe was two ſtories high; chiefly of wood and plaſter,
which materials are commonly preferred, not only as cheap,
but for fecurity in earthquakes; the joiſts and nails ſwaying and
yielding as the undulation requires. The lower ſtory was open
in the centre. On the right hand, was a magazine, or ſtore-
and oppoſite to it, an apartment with old faſhioned lac-
quered chairs. Between theſe our fervants flept, on the ground.
A door communicated with the offices, which were behind. The
aſcent to the upper ftory was by ftone ftairs, as ufual, on the out-
fide. The gallery extended the whole length of the front. It
fheltered us from the fun, which darted fiery, rays from a cloud-
lefs fky; and was agreeable as a place to walk and fleep in.
We had three apartments, with wooden lattices to admit the air,
while cool; and with ſhutters to exclude it, when inflamed.
That in the centre was fmall. The end rooms, one of which
we reſerved for our meals, were large, with their doors oppofite.
The walls were all white-waſhed. Our furniture confifted of
three or four broken or infirm chairs, a couple of unequal tables,
and the utenfils, bedding and baggage, with which we had tra-
velled. We lay on boards placed on ſtools, and moveable.
We endeavoured, by reducing our wants to as ſmall a number
as we could, to avoid communicating with Smyrna. Our village
ſupplied us with fowls and eggs, and with fleſh, as often as a
M m
COW
274
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
}
#
}
cow was killed.. The garden furniſhed a variety of articles, par-
ticularly a ſpecies of fruit called melinzane, and gourds, which
are eaten ſtewed. But wine, candles, and many other requifites
could be purchaſed only in the city; and for theſe a Turk was
to be fent, as feldom as poffible, with our proviſion-cheſts on a
horſe. He unloaded in the court, received his pay, and left us
without touching any perſon or thing. The chefts were then
waſhed with water and vinegar, and the contents expofed in the
air, or fumigated, as their quality directed. This was done be-
fore they were handled or uſed, with the moſt minute attention;
and, as a check on negligence, generally under our immediate
inſpection.
THE reader perhaps will imagine, that we tempted the Turk
to go on theſe errands by the offer of a great reward; but we
had no difficulty in procuring a meffenger to Smyrna, even when
the malady raged moſt, and appeared inevitable. Our market-
man, who likewife ferved the other Frank families at Sedicui,
did not once heſitate. Fear was overcome by a fentiment of
duty, and of obedience to his law. He had liberty to avoid the
infected city; but, if he entered, might not afterwards refrain.
The good Muffelman perfevered, and repeatedly underwent, for
a very trifling gratuity, fuch immediate rifque, as the wifer
European would not once incur for all the treafures of the
Grand Signior.
Soon after our arrival at Sedicui, we wanted fome articles
from our apartments in the conful's houſe, for which my com-
panions determined to go in perſon, eſcorted by a Janizary. It
was duſk when they left the village. They arrived at night,
and did their bufinefs; but one of our fervants getting in liquor
proved unmanageable, and detained them fo long, that in coming
back they met fome Turks, who had been burying a corpfe.
The caution of the Franks is offenfive to the Mahometans, as
implying a diſtruft of the Supreme Being. The man was em-
broiled with them, and one ſtriking him with a ſpade, he drew
a piſtol,
•
}
}
(
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
275
piftol, and it was with difficulty a fray was prevented. Befides
the danger on the ſpot, our general fafety was deeply intereſted
in his miſconduct, which indeed was without excuſe.
OUR confinement proved fufficiently, irkſome. We had ſome
books and our papers with us, and full leifure for ſtudy or medi- -
tation. A
A very few kind vifitants, among whom was Mr. Lee,
called on us now and then, and enquired of our welfare, at a
diſtance; condoling with us on the neceffity of mutual eftrange-
ment, or relating the progreſs of the malady and its daily havoc,
which afforded but too much room for ftrenuous exertions of for-
titude and refignation. The brightneſs and power of the fun,
with the extreme heat of the air, made us feldom ftir out, unleſs
early in the morning, and in the evening. The languor of noon
demanded fleep. The body, though arrayed as thinly and loofely
as poffible, was covered during the day with big drops of ſweat,
and diffolved, as it were, in a mighty and univerfal perſpiration.
Then followed a milder ſky, lengthening fhadows, and a gradual
coolneſs, grateful and pleaſing beyond imagination. Then was
the comfortable hour for change of linen and of apparel, to
enjoy the garden or to wander on the mountain. Theſe privi-
leges of our fituation were not inconfiderable in their value, as
ſome of our acquaintance teftified, whoſe lot it was to be pent
up in the city, tormented, drooping, and difpirited, with no-
thing to alleviate or divert their melancholy. The caſtle-hill of
Smyrna was an object plainly in view in thefe our walks, and
beheld not without emotion. The plague and death were buſy
near us, and the intelligence, which we received from the Franks
and Greeks was dreadful to hear. We had perfonal liberty, but
it became more and more neceffary to uſe it with extreme cau-
tion, by avoiding the near approach of any whom we chanced
to meet, and all intercourfe which could produce danger or
fufpicion. The fun fetting behind the fummits of mount Corax,
left the ſky ferene and ftained with rich and varying tints.
chorus of jackalls enfued; and the cucuvaia or night-hawk flit-
ted in the air.
A
1
M m 2
WE
༨
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TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
7
}
&
1
WE found Sedicui free from the infects, which had moleſted
us at Smyrna, except a few ftray moſquitoes, and, fome of the
ſmall flies, which were very teafing; but the Tettinx or Cicada
in the day-time is extremely troublefome. It is a brown infect
reſembling a chafer, with wings much longer than its body, and
thin like thoſe of a fly. It fits on the bushes and trees, making
with its wings, as fome affirm, a very loud, ugly, fcreaking
noife. When one begins, others join, and the diſagreeable con-
cert becomes univerfal; then a dead pauſe enfues, and then, as
it were on a fignal, it commences again. Dionyfius of Syracufe
fignified his refolution to burn and lay waſte the territory of a
people, with whom he had a quarrel, when he ſaid, that, if
they refuſed to comply with his demands, their Tettinxes. fhould fing
on the ground.
We had exceffive heat in the latter end of May, the wind
northerly; as alſo during the harveſt in June. From that quarter
it blowed fiery, as from a furnace; coming over mountains
fcorched by the fun. We endeavoured to exclude it by cloſing
our ſhutters and doors, though gaſping for breath. The ther-
mometer, which at other times was commonly between eighty.
four and eighty fix, then roſe at noon to ninety five. The har-
veft was preſently over. The fheaves were collected in the field,
and the grain trodden out by Buffaloes. In the morning, the
wind was often foutherly, before the Inbat from the bay reached
us. This frequently continued to a late hour, ruſtling among
the trees. We had thunder, with diftant lightning, in the
beginning of June; and, in the latter end of July, clouds be-
gan to appear from the fouth. The air was repeatedly cooled by
ſhowers, which had fallen elſewhere, and it was eaſy to foretell
the approaching rain. This was the ſeaſon for conſuming the
dry herbage and undergrowth on the mountains; and we often
faw the fire blazing in the wind, and ſpreading a thick ſmoke
along their fides.
$
}
ON
$
!
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
277
On the eleventh of July we had an earthquake, which agi-
tated the whole houſe, the beams and joifts of the roof craſh-
ing over our heads. It happened about ſeven in the morn-
ing, and was preceded by a hollow rumbling noiſe, which
was miſtaken by feveral perfons for the report of cannon, the
Captain Paſha or Turkiſh High Admiral then waiting with a
fleet in the gulf of Smyrna, to receive on board the revenues of
the Grand Signior. The found feemed to come from the fouth-
eaft. The fenfation was fuch as would be felt, I imagine, if the
earth were ſet fuddenly afloat. It occafioned a great alarm. Some
leffer fhocks fucceeded, but their centres were remote.
}
1
1
CHA P. LXXXIII.
Beginning of the plague — Some accidents -Its
Its fury —— Its probable
caufe-How communicated Not peftilential or in the air
Uncontroled - Infatuation of the Turks.
THE beginning of the plague was, as we have related, in
the fpring. The firſt ſufferers were from the iſland Muſconifi
or Tino. An uncertain rumour preceded its manifeſtation. One
fickened, then two or more,. until, the inftances multiplying,
the Franks fhut their gates, or prepared to retire into the coun-
try. It was no new enemy, and as yet produced no great terror.
When we were about to quit Smyrna, three Engliſh gentlemen,
Mr. Fitzgerald, Mr. Skipwith, and Mr. Wilbraham, arrived
from Athens, with Mr. Turnbull, a very worthy phyſician, who
had lived many years at Smyrna, and was highly eſteemed there
by the Europeans in general. They were vifited, and received,
and no danger apprehended.
THE kindly temperature of the weather gave vigour to the
diſeaſe, while we were abfent, and it was propagated amazingly.
The
J
278
ASIA MINOR.
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MINOR.
TRAVELS IN ASIA
The conful then appointed a market-man from among his do-
meftics; and his ftation was at the gate near the Janizary. After
about three weeks, he was attacked, carried with his bedding to
the hoſpital, and died the fame day. A maid fervant next com-
plained that ſhe had taken cold by fleeping on the terrace. She had
a flight fever with the head-ach. Half a paper of James's pow-
der purged and fweated her. The fever returned every after-
noon. Another half paper vomited her; but neither eating nor
fleeping ſhe grew coftive and weak. An Italian, who was phy-
fician to the Factory, came on the ninth or tenth day from the
country, and ſtanding below, ordered the patient to be brought
to the ſtair-head. He obferved a vein, under her tongue, black
and
very turgid; pronounced her diſorder to be the plague; and
adviſed ſending her to the hoſpital, where his opinion was con-
firmed by a Greek. She was then removed to the Roman Ca-
tholic hoſpital, and died after lingering on ten days. The wel-
fare of a large family was rendered fufpicious by this alarming
incident. We had reaſon to rejoice, both that we did not tarry
in Smyrna, and that we had met with our friend at Hadgilar.
THE malady did not abate in May, when we took poffeffion
of our aſylum. Four perfons were feized in the family of the
Cadi, the deputy chancellor of the French nation died, and ‘a
drugoman or interpreter was attacked. Turks, Jews, Greeks,
Armenians, and the like, periſhed without number. Of the
Greeks alone fometimes above an hundred and thirty were buried
in a day. It was generally agreed the calamity had not been ſe-
verer in the memory of man. In July, when the Captain Paſha
arrived to receive the taxes and tribute-money, ſome hundreds of
houſes, it was ſaid, were unoccupied or without owners. A fire,
which began to rage near the Frank quarter, feemed, amid all
this miſery, to threaten new affliction, but was fortunately
fubdued.
A
THE plague might perhaps be truly defined, a difeafe arifing
from certain animalcules, probably invifible, which burrow and
form
t
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
279
to
譬
​form their nidus in the human body. Thefe, whether gene-
rated originally in Egypt or elſewhere, fubfift always in ſome
places fuited to their nature. They are imported almoſt an-
nually into Smyrna, and this fpecies is commonly deſtroyed by
intenſe heat. They are leaft fatal at the beginning and latter
end of the ſeaſon. If they arrive early in the ſpring, they are
weak; but gather ftrength, multiply, and then perish. The
pores of the ſkin, opened by the weather, readily admit them.
One or more tumours, chiefly in the glandular parts, enſue, with
a variety of the moſt afflicting ſymptoms. If the patient ſurvive
fuppuration, he is dreadfully infectious; and the calamity is
woefully augmented by the confideration that one recovery is no
ſecurity from future attacks. Seycufe, an Armenian, who had
been our cook, and at my requeſt revealed his unfightly ſcars,
periſhed now; and, as I was affured, it fometimes happens, that
in one ſeaſon an individual is twice a fufferer.
THE plague is a diſeaſe communicating chiefly, if not folely,
by contact. Hence, though it encircle the houſe, it will not
affect the perſons within, if all are uniformly diſcreet and provi-
dent, as experience has demonftrated. Tranquillity of mind
and freedom from apprehenfion cannot be expected. They are
moſt diſagreeably, and without the minuteſt care moſt dangerouſly
circumſtanced. Iron, it is obferved, and the like fubftances,
which are of a cloſe hard texture, do not retain, or are not ſuſcep-
tible of the contagion. In bodies foft or porous, and eſpecially
in paper, it lurks often undiſcovered but by its feizing fome victim.
The preſervatives are fumigation, and waſhing with water or
vinegar. In particular a letter is taken up with a pair of tongs,
and in a manner finged before it can be opened with fafety. Do-
meſtic animals, which are prone to wander, muſt be excluded or
deſtroyed. A large family will require many articles to be pro-
cured from without, and is expofed in proportion to its wants.
If in the city, a clandeftine intercourſe of debauched fervants is
ever to be feared; if in the country and detached, fome unto-
ward accident or trivial but important inadvertency. Unremit-
ting
1
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280 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
1
ting attention is neceffary to avert horror and fufpicion from
either fituation.
THE ſtreets of Smyrna are ſo narrow and filthy, the houſes
fo crouded, and the concourfe of people in fpring fo great, that
during the fummer-heats diftemper could not fail to riot there,
if the town were not regularly perflated by the Inbat and land-
breezes; but the plague is not the offspring of the atmoſphere.
It perhaps could not even exiſt long in a peftilential air. The
natives retire to reſt about ſunſet, and rife with the dawn, when
the dead are carried on biers to be interred. The Frank, who
has buſineſs to tranfact, goes from the country to his houſe in the
town, in the interim, or returns, without fear. Solitude and the
facred night befriend him.
$
THE progreſs of the plague at Smyrna is utterly uncontroled.
The people, except the Franks, are in general as negligent as
ignorant. Their dwellings are crouded, many inhabiting in a
ſmall compaſs; and their chambers are covered with matting or
carpets, fofas, and cuſhions, adapted as well to retain as to re-
ceive contagion. Befides this, the Turk deems it a meritorious
office to affift in carrying the dead, and, on perceiving the fu-
neral of a Muffelman, haftens to put his ſhoulder under the bier,
on which the corpfe lies extended and in its clothes. He perfe-
veres in the pious work, until relieved by one equally mad and
well-meaning. Several fucceed by turns, and concur to reſcue
the living plague from being interred with the carcafe its prey.
This kind of infatuation is not, however, without fome utility.
It enfures burial, the hek are tended, and the markets ſupplied.
THE plague might be wholly averted from theſe countries, or
at leaſt prevented from ſpreading, if lazarettoes were erected,
and falutary regulations enforced, as in fome cities in Europe.
Smyrna would be affected as little perhaps as Marſeilles, if its
police were as well modelled. But this is the wiſdom of a fen-
fible and enlightened people. The Turk will not acknowlege
the
}
#
*
い
​}
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.
281
the means as efficacious, or will reject them as unlawful. A bi-
gotted Predeftinarian, he reſolves ſickneſs or health, pleaſure or
pain, with all, even the moſt trifling, incidents of life, into the
mighty power and uncontrolable will of the Supreme Being.
He views the prudent Frank with infolent diſdain, and reproaches
him with timidity or irreligion. He triumphs in fuperior cou-
rage and confidence, going out or coming in during the plague
with a calm indifference, as at other times; like the brute
beaft, unconscious of the road, which leads to his fecurity or
deftruction.
+
CHA P. LXXXIV.
Duration of the plague ---Appears at Sedicui--- Its ceſſation---We
return to Smyrna Prepare to leave Afia.
IT is an eſtabliſhed opinion among the Greeks, that foon
after St. John's day O. S. the fury of the plague decreaſes, and
that the term of its duration does not extend beyond the tenth
or fifteenth of Auguft. About that time the Frank merchants
commonly unlock their gates, drooping trade revives, and a free
intercourſe is reftored. We looked forward, as may be ima~
gined, to that period, with the most earnest defire and impa-
tience.
THE villages round Smyrna ſuffered fooner or later with the
city; nor was Sedicui wholly exempted. A Greek, eager to
ſecure the trifling effects of a deceaſed brother, went to the
town, returned and fickened; was carried back, and prefently
expired. A Frenchman, valet to Count Hochpied, who lived
oppofite to us, a wall feparating our gardens, complained of in-
difpofition in the beginning of July. A fwelling appeared, and
a poultice applied to it was attended with ſharp pain, and raiſed
a fiery bladder. Sufpicion was then exchanged for unwelcome
certainty
N n
282
MINOR.
TRAVELS İN
IN ASIA
مشر
*
certainty. He was removed to Smyrna, and recovered. This
family was well regulated; and the man, who had a good character
for his care and circumfpection, could not account for his con-
tracting the malady, unless it were communicated by a fheathed
knife, which, in following his mafter, he had picked up, and
instantly on recollection thrown down again. Thefe accidents
disturbed our quiet, removed all confidence in our retreat, and
made us redouble our vigilance and caution. A fire alfa hap-
pened, which deftroyed a houſe by our garden.
We were happy, when the month of Auguſt arrived, in find-
ing the popular remark on the continuance of the plague veri-
fied. The city was faid to be free from that diſeaſe, but a con-
tagious and mortal fever raged, principally among the Greeks.
This was attributed to their diet, which in the fummer feafon
confiſts almoſt wholly of fruits. We engaged a number of horſes
and mules to carry us and our baggage once more to Smyrna;
and the eighth of Auguſt was fixed for our departure from
Sedicui, where we had refided from the eleventh of May.
Ir was ſtriking, as we paffed the Turkish Coemeteries, on
our way into Smyrna, to contemplate the many recent graves of
different ſizes, exhibiting the uncertain tenure of a frail body at
every ſtage of life; and furnishing melancholy evidence, that:
Death had been glutted with as little diftinction of age as of
condition. Farther on were the half-burned ruins of houfes,
which had lately menaced a general conflagration. In the Frank
ſtreet, which had been crouded in the winter, we now met a
few perfons wearing a penfive look; and the comparative foli-
tude of that quarter added force to the difmal ideas, which in-
truded on us. All had been involved in public mifery and in
private diſtreſs, but fome were wonderfully fpared. We were
heartily greeted by the fat Janizary at the gate. The conful
welcomed us again, and foon after we had the fatisfaction of
ſeeing our other friends, and Mr. Lee.
IT
!
1
TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 283
1
It was natural to wish for a ſpeedy removal from a country,
in which we had been expoſed to ſo many dangers. We reſolved
to proceed immediately to Athens. We found on enquiry that
we could not draw on Leghorn for money from thence; and
that, to obviate much future difficulty and folicitude, we muſt
carry fpecie with us. Mr. Lee accepted our bills on London for
800l. at the ufual diſcount. The animofities, which had fub-
fifted between the governors in the diſtrict of Cuthaya and the
Baſha of Guzel-hiffar, had now produced hoftilities; and on
the north-fide of the gulf of Smyrna, fome great men were
feizing cannon, horſes, and arms, and preparing to decide their
diſputes by battle. Theſe troubles would have prevented our
making any farther excurſions from Smyrna. We hired a boat
to fail in ten days; and had reaſon to rejoice that our long ſtay
on this continent was fo near a concluſion.
}
+
FINI S.
1
$
you
*
#
Lately Published,
(Inſcribed by the Society of DILETTANTI to his Majeftý)
IONIAN ANTIQUITIES;
OR,
Ruins of magnificent and famous Buildings in IONIA.
Sold by J. ROBSON, in Bond-Street, London.
ALSO,
(Inſcribed to the Society of DILETTANTI)
INSCRIPTIONES
ANTIQVAE,
PLERAEQVE NONDVM EDITAE :
IN ASIA MINORI ET GRAECIA, PRAESERTIM ATHENIS, COLLECTAE.
CVM APPENDIC E.
Exfcripfit ediditque R. CHANDLER, S. T. P.
COLL. MAGD. ET Soc. ANTIQ. SOCIVS.
OXONII MDCCLXXIV.
Proſtant apud J. Dodsley, Jac. ROBSON, et THO. Cadell, Londini ;
et D. PRINCE, Oxonii.
N. B. Two Hundred and Fifty Copies only were printed, and but a small Number
remains to be fold.
{
€
Speedily will be Publiſhed,
TRAVELS
IN
GREECE.
ALSO,
AN ESSAY ON THE TROAD;
Or, a Review of the Geography, Hiftory, and Antiquities of
the Region of TROY.
With other Claſſical and Geographical Eſſays.
MAY 1 0 1917
}
}
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