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V. 4
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1
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•
THE
GRAND TOUR.
Containing an Exact
DESCRIPTION.
Of most of the
CITIES, TOWNS, and Remarkable
PLACES of EUROPE.
Together with
A Diftinct AccOUNT of the POST-ROADS and
STAGES, with their respective DISTANCES,
THROUGH
HOLLAND,
SWEDEN,
FRANCE,
SPAIN,
GERMANY,
POLAND,
AND
PORTUGAL.
FLANDERS, RUSSIA,
DENMARK, ITALY,
LIKEWISE
DIRECTIONS relating to the MANNER and
EXPENCE of Travelling from one Place and
Country to another.
AS ALSO
OCCASIONAL REMARKS on the preſent State of
TRADE, as well as of the LIBERAL ARTS and SCIENCES,
in each reſpective Country.
VOL. IV.
LONDON:
Printed for S. BIRT, in Ave-Mary-Lane; D. BROWNE,
without Temple-Bar; A. MILLAR, in the Strand ;
and G. HAWKINS, in Fleetftreet. MDCCXLIX.
}
F
}
Ail
(iii)
1
твар
9.28 44
GOYEN
CONTENTS
OF THE
FOURTH VOLUME.
CHAP. I:
General Deſcription of France.
SECT. I.
page 1
Of the fituation, extent, climate, foil, feas,
rivers, mountains, and forests of France 1
A 2
CHAP.
.
iv
CONTENTS of the
:
CHA P. II.
Journey from Dover to Paris.
CHA P. III.
Journey from Paris to Italy.
CHA P. IV.
Journey from Paris to Strafburg.
CHA P. V.
Journey from Paris to Bafil.
41
113
186
202
CHAP. VI.
Journey from Paris to Madrid and Liſbon,
by the way of Bourdeaux and Bayonne.
218
CHAP.
FOURTH VOLUME,
CHAP. VII.
Journey from Paris to Madrid and Liſbon,
by Narbonne and Perpignan,
257
CHAP. VIII.
Journey from Paris to Bourges.
CHAP. IX.
Journey from Paris to Rochelle.
296
297
CHAP. X.
Journey from Paris to Tours, Nants, and
Breft.
303
CHAP.
A
"
CONTENTS of the
VI
CHA P. XI.
Journey from Paris to Rennes and S. Malo.
321
CHAP. XII.
Journey from Paris to Cherbourg, by Roan
and Caen.
328
CHA P. XIII.
Journey from Paris to Havre de Grace, and
Dieppe.
340
CHA P. XIV.
Journey from Paris to Rheims and Sedan in
the way to Luxemburg.
344
CHAP.
:
FOURTH VOLUME.
vii
CHAP. XV:
Journey from Paris to Lifle and Valen-
cinnes.
350
THE
E
( 1 )
THE
TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
THROUGH
FRANCE.
CHAP. I.
General Defcription of France.
SECT. I.
Of the fituation, extent, climate, foil, feas,
rivers, mountains, and forests of France.
F
of
RANCE is a large and powerful Situation F
kingdom of Europe, fituated between France.
five degrees weft, and feven degrees
eaft longitude; and between forty two
and fifty one degrees of north lat. It
is bounded by the English channel and the Austrian
Netherlands on the north; by Germany, Switzer
land, Savoy, and Piedmont, on the eaft; by the
Mediterranean fea and the Pyrenean mountains, by
VOL. IV.
B
which
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Extent.
Name.
Air.
Soil.
Rivers,
which it is feparated from Spain, on the fouth,
and by the Bay of Biscay on the weft; being al-
moſt a ſquare of about 600 miles on each
fide, except that Britany makes it fomewhat ir-
regular, by ftretching further than any other pro-
vince to the weftward. It was formerly called
Gallia, from its ancient inhabitants the Gauls;
but its prefent name is derived from the Franks,
a German nation inhabiting that part of Germany
fill called Franconia, who upon the decline of
the Roman empire, made themſelves mafters of
Gaul.
The air of this country is very temperate,
pleafant, and healthful, being exempt from the
excess of heat and cold, which generally prevails
in more fouthern or northern latitudes. The
foil is exceeding fruitful, particularly in corn, wine,
oil, filk, flax, hemp, and fruits. The fields
are large and open, generally intermingled with
vine and corn, and bordered and interlined with
variety of fruits. They have a great many large
forefts well ſtored with all forts of game, and ſe-
veral mountains, moſt of which are covered over
with numerous flocks, and fome of them lined
with rich and valuable mines.
France is watered by a great many large and navi-
gable rivers The principal of thefe are the Seine,
the Loire, the Garonne, and the Rhone, to which
we may now add the Rhine, which for fome
hundred miles feparates the French territories from
Germany. Befides thefe there are ſome others
that empty themfelves into the fea, ſuch as the
Somme, the Orne, the Vilaine, the Charante, the
Adour, and the Aude.
The Seine has its rife near Dijon in Burgundy,
and running north weft thro' Champagne and the
ifle
through FRANCE.
3
}
ifle of France, vifits Troyes and Paris, and con- The Seine.
tinuing its courfe north-weft, croffes Normandy,
where it paffes by the city of Roan, and falls into
the British channel, between Havre de Grace and
Honfleur. The Yonne, the Marne, the Oyfe, and
the Eure, are the principal rivers it receives in
its courſe.
The Ga
The Loire is reckoned the finest river The Loire.
in France; it rifes in the Vivarez near the Ce-
vennes, and running north and north-weft, thro'
the Lionois and Orleanois, vifits the cities of Ne-
vers and Orleans; after which it directs its courfe
due weft by Tours, Angers, and Nants in Bri-
tany, forty miles below which city it falls into
the Bay of Bifiay. Its whole courfe, in which it
receives the Allier, the Cher, the Vienne, the
Mayenne, and feveral other rivers, is computed
to be about 500 miles. The Garonne rifes in
the Pyrenean mountains, and running north-weft,
viſits the city of Touloufe, and continuing its courfe
north-weft, divides the provinces of Guienne and
Gajcony, paffing by the city of Bourdeaux, and
empties itſelf into the Bay of Bijcay, about 60
miles below that city, having received the river
Dardonne, and feveral others during its courſe.
It has also a communication with the Mediterra-
nean, by the royal canal made by Lewis XIV.
The Rhone rifes in the mountain la Fourche in The Rhone.
Switzerland, and running weft thro' the country
called the Valais, divides it into two parts, then
paffing thro' the lake of Geneva, vifits that city,
from whence it runs fouth-west to Lyons in France,
where receiving the river Soane, it continues its
courfe due fouth, and paffing by Orange, Avig
non and Arles, falls into the Mediterrancan to the
weft-ward of Marfeilles. There are feveral ca-
taracts in the upper part of the river, fo that it
is not navigable, till twelve or fifteen miles be-
B 2
low
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
1
low Geneva, and it runs afterwards with ſuch ra-
pidity, that it is very difficult to get veffels up
the ftream.
The moſt remarkable mountains in France are
Mountains thofe called the Cevennes, which are extraordinary
and Forefts. high, and extend from Lower Languedoc to Au-
vergne. Foreſts and Woods are not fo large, fo
numerous, or fo thick as in Germany. The prin-
cipal forefts are thoſe of Verſay, Chernay, Audain,
and Maine, in the province of Maine: Toriant
and Guerche, in Lower Britany: Mouliere, Dyne,
Brofe, and Ligne, in Poitou: Orleans, in the
Orleanois: Sylva Roberti, in Berry: Lurfay and
Marſon, in Anjou : Surene, Celles, Hardelot, Dal-
les, and Bourfin, in the Boulonois, the woodieſt
country in France.
Divifion of
France into
Govern-
Enents.
II. Defcription of the general Governments of
FRANCE.
France is divided into twelve general govern-
ments, which are fubdivided afterwards into lef-
fer provinces; to which are added the new ac-
quifitions. Thefe governments are, 1. Picardy.
2. Normandy. 3. The Ifle of France. 4. Cham-
pagne. 5. Britany. 6. The Orleanois. 7. Bur-
gundy. 8. The Lionois. 9. Dauphiné.
4
10.
Provence. 11. Languedoc. 12. Guienne. The
new acquifitions are part of Flanders, Artois, part
of Hainault, and the Cambrefis in the Netherlands;
the provinces of Franche Comté, Lorrain and Al-
face, in Germany; and in Spain, the province of
Roufillon
The general government of Picardy, is bounded
General go- by Hainault, Artois, and the Straights of Calais,
vernment of towards the north; by Champagne and the Nether-
Picardy.
lands, on the eaſt; by the Isle of France on the
fouth;
I
through FRANCE.
5
fouth; and by the English channel and Normandy on
the weſt, extending about 150 miles in length,
and not above 40. in breadth, and in many places
not half ſo broad, being a long narrow province
ufually compared to a bent arm. It is for the moſt
part a plain open country, abounding in corn and
paſture, but produces no wine becauſe of the cold-
nefs of the climate. They have great fcarcity of
wood; but are well fupplied with fifh from the
neighbouring fea and their rivers, the chief of
which are the Oyfe, the Somme, the Canche, and
the Authe. It is ufually divided into the Higher,
Middle, and Lower Picardy. The Higher in-
cludes the Vermandois and the Thierache; the
Middle comprehends the county of Amiens, and
the diſtrict of Santerre; the Lower confifts of the
Boulonoife, the reconquered country, and the
County of Ponthieu and Vemen. The chief towns
of the Vermandois ate S. Quintin, Ham, and Ca-
telet. The chief towns of the Thierache, are La
Fere, La Capelle, Guife, and Vervins. The chief
towns of the county of Amiens, are Amiens, Dour-
lans, Corbie, Conti, Pecquigny, Poix, and Lig-
niers. The chief towns of the district of San-
terre are Montdidier, Roye, Peronne, Ancre, Nefly,
Chaunes, Halluin, Morevil, Crevecoeur. Thẹ
chief towns of the Bouloncis are Boulogne, Ambic-
teufe, Montbulin, Eftaples. The chief towns of
the reconquered country, fo called from its be-
ing retaken from the English, are Guines, Ardres,
and Calais. The chief towns of the county of
Ponthieu, are Abbeville, Crecy, Montreuil, Pont
de Reny, Rue, and S. Riquier. The chief towns
of the county of Vemen, are S. Valery, Gama-
ches, and Crotoy. The Artois, which has been
defcribed vol. I. p. 51. is now included in the ge-
neral government of Picardy.
B 3
The
6
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
General go-
The general government of Normandy (fo cal-
vernment of led from the Normans a northern people, who
Normandy.
conquered it about the year 912) is bounded by
the British channel on the north; by Beauffe,
Ferche, and Maine on the fouth; by Picardy and
the Ifle of France on the eaft; and by Britany
on the weft; extending 150 miles in length from
eaft to weft, and ninety in breadth from north
to fouth. It is one of the largeſt and moſt
fruitful provinces of the kingdom, confifting
of an agreeable variety of arable, pafture
grounds, and forefts. They have fcarce any vine-
yards, except in the fouth parts; but they abound
in apples and pears, of which they make cyder
and perry, the ordinary drink of the country.
This province abounds alfo in iron mines, and
mineral waters. They have fome hills, but no
high mountains; their forefts furniſh them with
game, timber and firing; and they have quarries
of excellent ftone. The air is reckoned colder
here than in any other province of France, but
not unwholeſome. Their principal rivers are the
Seine, the Eure, the Aure, the Audelle, the Rille,
the Dive, the Touque, the Careutone, the Aute,
and the Orne. This province is ufually divided
into Upper and Lower Normandy. The Upper
Normandy comprehends, 1. The country of Caux ;
chief towns, Caudebec, S. Valery, Dieppe, Ar-
ques, Eu, Aumale, L'Ifle Bonne, Yvetat, Lon-
gueville, Havre de Grace, Montivilliers, Har-
feur, and Fefcamp. 2. The Roumois; chief
towns Pont Audemer, Quillebeuf, and Elbeuf. 3.
The Vexin Norman; chief towns, Roan, the ca-
pital of Normandy, Gifors, Audely, and Econi. 4.
The country of Bray; chief towns, Neufchatel,
Gournay, La Ferte, and Forges. 5. The country
of Campagne; chief towns, Pont de L'Arche,
Louviers, Neubourg, Harcourt, Evreux, Gaillon,
S. Andre,
through FRANCE.
7
S. Andrè, Nonancourt, Verneuil, Bretville, and
Concles. 6. The diftrict of Ourche; chief towns,
Bernai, Beaumont, Le Roger, and L'Aig. 7.
The country of Lieuvin; chief towns, Corneilles,
Lievrai, and Tiberville. The Lower Normandy
contains, 1. The country of Auge; chief towns,
Lifieux, Honfleur, and Pont L'Eveque. 2. The
district of Caen; chief town, Caen.
3. The
Beffin; chief towns Bayeux and S. Lo. 4. The
Coutantin; chief towns, Coutance, S. Sauveur,
Cherbourg, Barfleur, Valogne, Garentau, Ville-
dieu, Granville, and La Hogue. 5. The Auran-
chin; chief towns, Avranches, Pont Orfon, S.
James, Mount S. Michel, and Mortain. 6. The
country of Bocage; chief towns, Torigny, Vire,
and Conde fur Noireau. 7. The Marches; fo
called from its lying on the confines of Perche and
Maine ; its chief towns are Alençon, Seez, Ar-
gentan, Falaife, and Domfront.
The general government of the Iſle of France,
fo called from its being almoſt encompaffed with
rivers, is bounded by Picardy on the north; by
the Orleanois on the fouth; by Champagne on the
eaft; and by Normandy on the weft; extending
about 80 miles from north to fouth, and much
the fame from east to west. It is the leaft of aÌl
the general governments in France, but has the
advantage of being the feat of their kings. The
air is mild and temperate, and the foil exceeding
fertile in corn, wine and fruits. It is adorned
with feveral royal palaces, and with an infinite
number of agreeable feats, and other excellent
buildings. This province is generally divided in-
to eleven diftricts, viz. 1. The Parifis, or the
Iſle of France properly fo called; chief towns,
Paris the capital of this great kingdom, Vincennes,
S. Denis, Montmorency, Dammartin, and Cha-
renton. 2. Brie Françoife; chief towns, Lagny
B 4
and
General go
vern nent of
Frant.
the fle of
8
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
General go-
vernment of
and Brie Count Robert. 3. The Hurepois; chief
towns, Melun, Dourden, Monthery, Chartres,
Corbeil. 4. Part of the Gatinois, (the other
part belongs to the general government of Or-
leanois) chief towns, Nemours, Courtenay, Fon-
tainbleau, and Moret. 5. The Mantois; chief
towns, Mante, Montfort, S. Germains en Laye,
Verfailles, Trianon, Marly, Meudon, S. Cloud,
Madrid, Anct, Poiffy, Dreux. 6. The Vexin
François; chief towns, Pontoife, Cheaumont,
L'Isle Adam, Magny, Rocheguyon. 7. The Beau-
caifis; chief towns, Beauvais, Clermont, Ger-
beroy, Bulles, and Merlou. 8. The dutchy of
Valois; chief towns, Crefpy, La Ferté, Milon,
Villers Cotrets, Senlis, Creil, Pont S. Maxence,
Compiegne, Bithify, and Chantilly.
9. The
Soifonois; chief towns, Soifons, Brenne, and
Veilly. 10. The Laonois; chief towns, Laon,
and Lieffe.
11. The Noyonnois; chief towns,
Noyon, Chauny, and Premontré.
The general government of Champagne, fo
Champagne, called from the wide fields and plains of which
it chiefly confifts, is bounded by Lorrain on the
eaft; by the Isle of France on the weft; by Pi-
cardy and the Netherlands on the north; and by
Burgundy on the fouth, extending about 150
miles in length from north to fouth, and 120
in breadth from east to west. This is one of
the best and largeſt provinces in the kingdom;
the middle of it is plain and open, but the
extreme parts are covered with woods, and
fruitful hills, producing corn, fruits, and excel-
lent wine; and they have alfo fome mineral wa-
ters. The air is temperate and healthful, which
renders the natives of a foft and mild difpofition.
Their principal rivers are the Maefe, the Seine,
the Marne, the Aube, and the Aifne; but few of
thefe are navigable within the limits of the pro-
vince,
through FRANCE.
9
f
vince, for which reaſon they have not much trade.
This province is ufually divided into eight al-
moft equal parts, viz. 1. Champagne proper;
chief towns, Troyes, Chalons, S. Menehoud, Vertus,
Efpernay, Pont fur Seine, Mery, Rameru, Plaucy,
Ai, and Dormans. 2. The Rhemois; chief towns,
Rheims Fimes, and Chateau Portien. 3. The
Perthois; chief towns, Fitry le François, and
S. Difier. 4. The Rhetelois; chief towns, Rhe-
tel, Mefieres, Charleville, Doncheri, Rocroy, Se-
dan, Boncourt, and Monfan. 5. The Vallage,
a little country, fo called from its vallies; chief
towns, Joinville, Vaffi, Efcaron, Briene, Vigno-
ris, Bar fur Aube, Clairvaux, and Chateau Vil-
lain. 6. Baffigny; chief towns, Langres, Chau-
mont, Montigni le Roy, and Bourbonne les Bains.
7. The Senonois; chief towns, Sens, Pont fur
Yonne, S. Florentin, Tonere, Brais, Chablais, and
Nogent fur Seine. S. Brie Champagnaife; chief
towns, Meaux, Provins, Chateau Thierry, Colo-
miers, Sezanne, and Monterau fur Yonne.
vern.bent of
The general government of Britany was an- General go-
ciently called Armorica, i. e. ad mare fita; its Britany.
prefent name is owing to the natives of the ifland
of Great Britain, who were driven out of their
country about the middle of the fifth century, and
fled for refuge into Armorica. It is a peninfula
bounded on the north, fouth, and weft, by the
ocean, and on the eaft by Anjou, Maine, and
part of Normandy, extending about 180 miles in
length from east to west, and about 130 in its
greateſt breadth, that is from Nantz to S. Malo's,
but grows gradually lefs, as you proceed to the
weftward, fo that in fome places it is not half fo
broad. This province is very fruitful, and plea-
fantly diverfified with hills and vallies; but the
lower Britany is more mountainous, a chain of
hills, called Mount Arre, running through that
B 5
country.
10
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
country. It abounds with meadows, woods, and
forefts, milk, butter, corn, fruit, feeds, cyder,
perry, and malt-drink; but they have very little
wine. The air is generally healthful, but thick
and moist towards the fea-coafts. They have
abundance of falt mines, together with thofe of
iron and lead. The inland inhabitants are polite,
and affable, but thoſe who live near the fea, are
reckoned fomewhat rough and unpolifhed. Their
language is that of the ancient Britons, and
fomewhat a-kin to that of the Welsh. Their fitua-
tion on the fea makes them apply themfelves
to foreign trade, for there is no other part of
France abounds with fo many good ports and roads,
for inftance S. Malo's, Breft, Conquet, Port-
Louis, Nantz, and feveral others. Their
principal rivers are the Loire, the Vilaine, the
Oufe, the Blavet, and the Rance, but the two
firft only are navigable. This province is ufually
divided into Higher and Lower Britany: The
Higher is fubdivided into five diocefes. 1. The
diocefe of Rennes; chief towns, Rennes, Fou-
geres, and Vitre.
2. The diocefe of Nants; chief
towns, Nants, Chateaubriant, Gueraude, Croific,
Cliffon, Ancenis, Machecou, and Paimbeuf. 3.
The diocefe S. Malo; chief towns, S. Malo,
Concale, Chateauneuf, Dinant, Combourg, and
Montfort. 4. The diocefe of Dol; the only con-
fiderable town is Dol. 5. The diocefe of Brieux;
chief towns, S. Brieu, Montcontour, Lambale, and
Quintin. The Lower Britany is fubdivided into
four diocefes, I. The diocefe of Vannes; chief
towns, Fannes, Auray, Hennebond, Redon, Port-
Lewis, Pontray, Maleftroit, befides the penin-
fula of Rhins, and the ifland of Befle-Ifle. 2.
The diocefe of Quimper; chief towns, Quimper,
Corentin, Quimperler, Concarnau, Carhaix, Cha-
teauneuf, Gowrin, Audierne, Pont-Croix, Pont-
L'Abbey
through FRANCE.
:
L'Abbe, and Crozan. 3. The diocefe of Leon;
chief towns, S. Paul de Leon, Breſt, Lefneven,
S. Renau, Landernau, Porfal, with the iſles of
Uſhant. 4. The diocefe of Trequier; chief
towns, Trequier, Morlaix, Guingamp, Lannion,
and Lanmur.
Orleannois.
The general government of Orleannois, is the General gr
largeſt, and contains the pleaſanteſt countries of vernment of
France, most of which are watered by the Loire.
It takes its name from Orleans the chief town of
the whole, and is bounded by the Ifle of France,
and Normandy on the north; by Saintonge, Peri
gord, La Marche de Limofin, and Bourbonnois on
the fouth; by Burgundy and Champagne on the
eaft; and by Britany and the fea on the weft;
extending about 270 miles in length from eaft to
weft, and 190 from north to fouth. It is a very
healthful pleaſant country, watered by feverat
other ftreams befides the Loire, fuch as the Indre,
the Cher, Vienne, Mayenne, Sarte, and Charente,
on whoſe banks are fome of the beft vineyards
in France, with arable lands, forefts, and little
hills, which form a moft agreeable profpect,
whence fome have called it the enchanted coun-
try. It is divided into fourteen provinces or
countries; five of which lie upon the Loire, viz.
1. The Orleannois proper; chief towns, Orleans,
Beaugency, Melun, Sully, Gergeau, and Plu-
viers. 2. The Nivernais; chief towns, Nevers,
S. Pierre le Mouftier, Decize, La Charité, Donzy,
Clamecy, Vezelay, Corbigny. 3. The Blaifois, or
country of Blois; chief towns, Blois, Chambord,
Mer, S. Die, Romorantin, and Millancy.
Touraine, called the Garden of France; chief
towns, Tours, Langeau, Chateau Regnaud, Am-
boife, Mont Trichard, Loches, Chinon. An-
jou; chief towns, Angers, Pont du Cee, Saumur,
Doue, Brifac, Fontevrault, Beaufort, Bauge,
Jarze, La Fleche, Huille, Durfal, Lude, Cha-
B 6
5.
4.
teas
I 2*
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
General go-
vernment of
4
teau gontier, Craon, Montjan. Five lie on the
right or north of the Loire, viz. 1. The country
of Maine; chief towns, Mans, Laval, Mayenne,
La Ferte Bernard, Chateau du Loire, Domfront,
and Sable. 2. Perche; chief towns, Nogent le
Rotrou, Belleme, Mortagne, Montmirail, Brou,
and Chateauneuf. 3. The Vendemois; chief
towns, Vendome, Montoire, Savigny, and S. Ga-
lez. 4. The country of Beauce; chief towns,
Chartres, Nogent le Roy, Efpernon, Maintenon,
Auneau, Bonneval, and Dreux. 5. Part of the
Gatinois, the other part, as we have already
obferved, belonging to the Ile of France; the
chief towns are, Montargis, Chateau Renard,
Milly, Chatillon-fur-Loing, Briare, Eftampes,
Gien, Blefneau, S. Fargeau, and S. Amant. The
other four provinces are, 1. The dukedom of
Berry; chief towns, Bourges, Henrichemont or
Boisbelle, Sancerre, Concreffant, Aubigny, Cha-
tillon, S. Aignan, Iffodun, Charoft, Chateau Roux,
Blanc, Argenton, and Vierzon. 2. The province
of Poitou; chief towns, Poitiers, Caftelheraut,
Loudun, Richelieu, Champigny, Moncontour, Mor-
temar, Vivonne, Lucignan, Fontenay le Comte,
Niert, Luçon, Talmond, La Roche fur Yon, Sables
d'Olonne, Montegu, and Mortigni. 3. The coun-
try of Aunis; chief towns, Rochelle, Rochefort,
Brouages, Marennes, Alvert, Tremblade, Saujon,
Royan, with the ifles of Re and Oleron.
4. The
Augoumois; chief towns, Augouleme, Cognac,
Farnac, Chateauneuf, La Rochefoucault.
The general government of Burgundy, com-
Burgundy. prehends the dutchy of Burgundy, the Breffy, Bu-
gey, and the Baillage of Gex; it is bounded by
Champagne on the north; by the Lionmois proper
on the fouth; by Franche Comté, or the county
of Burgundy, on the eaft; and by the Bourbon-
meis and Nivernois, on the fouth; extending about
140
through FRANCE.
13
1
•
140 miles in length from north to fouth, and go
in breadth from eaft to weft. It is a fine fruit-
ful province, abounding with corn, hemp, flax,
cattle, forefts, pafturage, and principally with the
beſt wine in France; the places moft celebrated
for it, are Nuis, Chambertin, Beze, Coulange,
Chaffagne, Beaune, and Volenai. They have feve-
ral handfome towns, and a very numerous nobility.
Their principal rivers are the Seine, the Saone,
the Ouche, the Tilles, and the Aine. This pro-
vince is divided into thirteen diftricts, viz. 1. The
Dijonois; chief towns, Dijons, Nuits, Beaume,
S. John de Laune, Bellegarde, and Aufonne. 2.
The Autunois; chief towns, Autun, Bourbon
Lancy, and Mont-Ceny. 3. The Chalonois; chief
towns, Chalons, Verdun, Seurre, and Lohans. 4.
The baillage of the mountains; chief towns,
Chatillon, Bar-fur-Seine, Maſſey L'Eveque, Aifey
le Duc, and Val des Choux. 5. The county or
baillage of Auxerre; chief towns, Auxerre, Cre-
vant and Coulange. 6. The Auxois; chief towns,
Semur, Flavigny, Montbard, Noyers, Avalon, Ar-
nay le Duc, Saulieu, and Tanlay. 7. The Britn-
nois; it contains only Semur its capital, near
the river Loire, and a few villages. 8. The Cha-
rolcis; chief towns, Charolles, Parey, La Guiche,
and Chaumont. 9. The Maconnois; chief towns,
Macon, Tournus, Clugny, S. Geugoux, and Mer-
cigny. 10. La Breffe; chief towns, Bourg, Pont
de Vaux, Monthiel, Chatillon, and Beauge.
The principality of Dombes; chief towns, Tre-
voux, Thoiffei, and Montmerle. 12. The diftri&t
of Bugcy; chief towns, Bellay, Nautua, Seiffel,
and S. Rambert. 13. The diftrict of Gex; the
only town of note is Gex.
II.
The general government of Lionnois, fo deno- General goẻ
minated from its capital city Lyons, is bounded by vernment of
Lionnoise
the Orleanais and Burgundy on the north; by
Languedoc
34
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Languedoc and part of Guienne on the fouth; by
La Breffe and Dauphiné on the eaft; and by ano-
ther part of Guienne and Orleanois on the weft;
extending 190 miles in length from east to west,
and 140 in breadth from north to fouth. This
is one of the moſt pleaſant governments in France,
being interſperſed with plains and hills, which pro-
duce good corn and excellent wine. It has feve-
ral mountains and forefts, with confiderable ma-
nufactures of fteel, and a great trade in cattle.
Its principle rivers are, the Loire, Cher, Creufe,
Ore, Allier, Luzarques, Giez, Truyere, Saone,
and the Rhone. It is commonly divided into fix
districts, viz. 1. The Lyonnois Proper; chief
towns, Lyons, the capital, Tarare, Anfe, S. Chau-
mont, and Condraeu. 2. The Beaujolois; chief
towns, Ville-Franche, and Beaujeu. 3. The dif-
trict of Forez; chief towns, Mont-Brifon, S.
Stephen de Furens, Feurs, Roanne, S. Galmier.
4. The diftrict of Auvergne; which is divided
into Upper and Lower; in the Lower the chief
towns are, Clermont, Montferrand, Thiers, Riom,
Montpenfier, Cropiere, Iffoire, Brioude, Alegre, Le-
zoux, Maringues, and Vie le Comte: in the Upper
Auvergne, the chief towns are, S. Flour, Murat,
Aurillac, Mau ac, and Beffe. 5. The Bour-
bonnois, which is alfo divided into Upper and
Lower; in the Upper the chief towns are, Mou-
lins, and Vichy; in the Lower, Bourbon, Mont-
lucon, Grannat, and Nerris. 6. The Marche,
or the Marquifate, fo called becauſe it lies on
the frontiers of feveral countries; its chief towns
are, Gueret, Aubuffon, Grandmont, Dorat, and
Belat.
General go-
The general government of Dauphiné, is al-
vernment of moſt of a triangular figure, each fide of the tri-
Dauphine. angle, extending near 100 miles in length; it is
bounded by La Breſſe and part of Savey on
the
through FRANCE.
15
the north; by Provence on the fouth; by ano-
ther part of Savoy, and Piedmont on the eaft;
and by the river Rhone, which feparates it from
Languedoc, on the weft. This is a very moun-
tainous country, especially towards the eaft, be-
ing ſeparated from Piedmont by the Alps. Their
mountains however produce a great variety of
beautiful flowers, fimples, timber, precious-ftones,
and minerals. They have alfo abundance of
deer, wild-goats, bears, and wolves. Its chief
rivers are, the Rhone, the Durance, the Ifere,
and the Drome. It is ufually divided into Up-
per and Lower Dauphine; the Upper being en-
cumbered with mountains is more barren and lies
to the eastward; the Lower is to the weſtward,
near the banks of the Rhone, and is the moſt
fruitful part of the country, producing corn,
wine, olives, falt, filk, and hemp. The Upper
is again fubdivided into fix diftricts, viz. 1. The
Grafivaudan; chief towns, Grenoble, the capital
of the province, Les Efchelles, Fort Barraux, and
Giere. 2. The Briançonois; chief towns, Brian-
çon, Oux, Queyras, Exilles, and Feneftrelles; but
the two laft belong now to the king of Sardinia.
3. The Ambrunois; chief towns, Ambrun, Gilleſtre,
S. Crefpin, Mont Dauphin, Chorges, and Chateau
Dauphin. 4. The Gapençois; chief towns Gap,
Tallard, Veines, Lefdiguieres, and Afpres. 5.
The Royanez; the only town of note is Pont de
Royance. 6. The Baronies, fo called from the fe-
veral baronies into which it is divided; its chief
towns are, Buis and Nions. The Lower Dau-
phiné is fubdivided into five diftricts, viz. 1. The
Viennois; chief towns, Vienne, S. Saphorin, Pont
de Beauvoifin, S. Rambert, S. Vallier, Tain, Ro-
mans, S. Antony, and La Tour du Pin. 2. The
Valentinois; chief towns, Valence, Montelimar,
Livron, Pierre Late, and S. Marcellin. 3. The
Diois
16
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
General go-
vernment of
Provence.
Diois; chief towns, Die, Creft, Luc, Sail.
lans, Chatillon, Valdrone. 4. The Tricaftine;
the only town of note is, S. Paul trois Chateaux.
5. The principality of Orange; chief towns,
Orange, Courtezon, and Jonquieres.
•
The
The general government of Provence, a coun-
try by the Romans called Provincia, becauſe it was
the first they fubdued on this fide the Alps, is
bounded by Dauphiné on the north; by the Me-
diterranean on the fouth; by the river Var and
the Alps, which feparate it from Piedmont and
the county of Nice, on the eaft; and by the
Rhone, which divides it from Languedoc, on the
weft; extending about 120 miles in length from
east to west, and 95 in breadth from north to
fouth. This is a very mountainous country, to-
wards the north and eaft; but that part which is
next the fea, is generally plain and even.
mountainous part is cold, and produces but little
corn or wine; but on the coaſts the air is exceeding
mild, and the country vaftly fruitful, abounding
with corn, delicious wines, excellent fruits of all
forts, particularly olives, of which they make
the beſt oil in the kingdom. They make a vaſt
quantity of filk, and have abundance of falt,
on their coafts, with ftore of faffron, vermillion,
cork, and rofin. They have alfo mineral waters,
and falt-fprings. in feveral parts of the country.
The chief rivers are, the Rhone, the Var, the
Durance, the Verdon, the Argens, the Sorgue,
and the Larc. The moft confiderable roads and
harbours on the coaft, are thofe of Marſeilles,
Toulon, Hieres, Grimont, and Lerins. This coun-
try is generally divided into four principal parts,
viz. Upper, Middle, and Lower Provence, and
the county of Venaiſſin; and theſe again are ſub-
divided into diocefes. Aiddle Provence contains,
1. The diocefe of Aix; chief towns, Aix, the
capital of the province, S. Maximin, Brignol,
and
"
through FRANCE.
17
1
and Lambefc. 2. The diocefe of Arles; chief
towns, Arles, Salon, Berre, Les Beaux, Trois
Maries, and Tarafcon. 3. The dioceſe of Apt;
chief towns, Apt, Sault, and Pertuis. 4. The
dioceſe of Riez; chief towns, Riez, Montiers,
and Valufole. The Lower or Maritime Provence
contains, 1. The diocefe of Marſeilles; chief
towns, Marſeilles, Aubagne, Martegues, La
Cioutat, If, Roquevaire, La Sainte Baume, and
Gemenos. 2. The diocefe of Toulon; chief towns,
Toulon, Hieres, Bormes, Sixfours, and Olioules.
3. The diocefe of Frejus; chief towns, Frejus,
Barjols, Draguignan, Bargemon, and S. Tropez 4.
The diocefe of Graffe; chief towns, Graffe, Antibes,
and Cannes. 5. The diocefe of Vence; chief towns,
Vence, and S. Paul. Upper Provence contains, 1.
The diocefe of Glandeves; chief towns, Glandeves,
Guilleaum, and Entrevaux. 2. The dioceſe of Senez ;
chief towns, Senez, Caftellane, Annot, and Colmars.
3. The dioceſe of Digne; the only town of note
is Digne. 4. The diocefe of Sifteron ; chief towns,
Sisteron, Forcalquier, and Monofque. The county
of Venaiffin is fo called, as fome fay, a venatione,
becauſe it is a ſporting country; or as others pre-
tend, from Venafque formerly an imperial city,
and the chief of the country. It is fubject to the
pope, and contains, J. The diocefe of Avignon;
chief town Avignon. 2. The diocefe of Cavillon;
chief town Cavillon. 3. The dioceſe of Carpentras;
chief towns, Carpentras and Perne. 4. The diocefe
of Vaiſſon; chief town of the fame name. To this
divifion of Provence, we must add the valley of
Barcellonette, which was yielded to France by the
treaty of Utrecht, in 1713, and the following year
was united to Provence; its chief town is Bar-
celonette. We muſt alſo add the iſlands of Pro-
vence, which are, 1. Thofe of S. Margaret, and
Honorat. 2. The Hieres; and 3. Thoſe of Mar-
feilles.
The
18
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
General go-
vernment of
Languedoc.
The general government of Languedoc, is the
moft foutherly part of France, and of a very ir-
regular figure, broad at both ends, and narrow in
the middle. It is bounded by Lionnois and
Guienne on the north; by the Gulph of Lyons and
the Pyrenean mountains, which feparate it from
Spain, on the fouth; by the river Rhone, which
divides it from Dauphiné and Provence on the
eaft; and by Gafcony on the weft; extending
about 200 miles in length from eaft to weft, buɛ
is fo indented about the middle by the province
of Rovergue on the one hand, and the Guiph of
Lions on the other, that it is not above 30 or 36
miles broad in that part, though it is 100 miles
broad towards the eaft, and almoft as many on
the wet. The north-east part of this country is
very mountainous, being taken up by the Cevennes;
but the weſtern is generally plain and low, till
you come towards Rouillon and the Pyrenean
mountains. The air is for the most part extreme-
ly pleaſant and healthful, eſpecially about Mont-
pellier, where it is reckoned a remedy in con-
fumptive cafes. The country is very fruitful,
abounding in corn, excellent fruit of all forts,
wine, oil, honey, wax, faffron, filk, falt, cattle,
metals, minerals, mineral-waters, and particular-
ly with medicinal herbs. Their principal rivers
are, the Rhone, the Garonne, the Loire, the Aude,
the Tarn, the Agout, and the Allier. This coun-
try is famous for the royal canal, upwards of 100
miles in length, dug by order of Lewis XIV. by
means of which there is a communication be-
tween the ocean and the Mediterranean. Lan-
guedoc is divided into three principal parts, viz.
Upper, Lower, and the country of the Cevennes. The
Upper contains, 1.The district of Toulouse, wherein
part of the dioceſe of Montauban is included; its
chief towns are, Toulouſe, Grizoles, Verfeuil, Ville
Franche
'through FRANCE.
19
Franche, Hauterive, Montefquiou, Mongifcar,
Caftel-Sarazin, and Lavaur. 2. The diftrict of
Albigeois, famous for the fect of people called
Albigenfes; its chief towns are Alby, Gaillac,
Rabefteins, Cardelins, Realmont, and Caftres.
3. The diftrict of Laraugais; chief towns, Ca-
felnaudary, Fanjaux, S. Papoul, and Puylaurens.
4. The county of Foix; chief towns, Pamiers,
Belleftat, Foix, Mirepoix, Rieux, and Querigut.
The Lower Languedoc contains, 1. The diftrict
of Nartonne; chief towns, Narbonne, Carcaffon,
Limoux, Aleth, Leucate, and S. Pons. 2. The
diftrict of Beziers; chief towns, Beziers, Agde,
Pefenas, and Lodeva. 3. The diftrict of Nimes;
chief towns, Nimes, Pont du Gard, Beaucaire, S.
Giles, Aigues Mortes, Peccais, Sommieres, Mont-
pellier, Cette, Lunel, Alais, Audufe, S. Hippolite,
Ufez Ville neuve d'Avignon, Bagnols, and Pont
S. Efprit. The Cevennes is divided into three
countries, viz. 1. The Vivarez; chief towns,
Viviers, S. Andcol, Joyeuse, Albenas, Privas,
Tournon, Annonay, and Andance. 2. The Velay,
the only town of note is le Puy. 3. The Ge-
Daudan, chief towns Mende, and Mervege.
Guienae.
The general government of Guienne, is bound- General go
ed by the country of Aunis, the Augoumois, and vernment of
and la Marche on the north; by the Pyrenean
mountains on the fouth; by Languedoc on the
eaſt; and by the ocean on the weft; extending
about 230 miles in length from eaft to weft, and
200 in breadth from north to ſouth.
This is one
of the largeſt and beſt governments of the king-
dom; that part of it which lies upon the Garonne,
abounds with corn, wine, and fruit; that on the
coaft, and along the Pyrenean mountains, is fa-
mous for pafturage, and great quantities of cattle.
Its chief rivers are, the Garonne, the Dordonne
(which having] united their ftreams below Bour-
*
deaux,
20
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
H
;
5.
deaux, obtain the name of Gironne) the Adour,
the Tarn, the Charante, and the Lot. It is di-
vided into South and North Guienne; the first re-
tains the name of Guienne; and the ſecond is cal-
led Gafcony. Guienne is fub-divided into eight
diſtricts, viz. 1. The Bourdelois; chief towns,
Bourdeaux, the capital of the government, Lor-
mond, S. Macaire, S. Emilion, Coutras, Libourne,
Fronfac, Bourg, Blaye, and Lefparre. 2. The
Bazadois; chief towns, Bazas, Langon, La
Reole. 3. The Agenois; chief towns, Agen, Port
S. Mary, Aiguillon, Clerac, Villeneuve d' Agen,
Tonnains, Marmande, S. Foy, Nerac.
4. The
district of Quercy; chief towns, Cahors, Figeac,
Lufets, Puy l'Eveque, Gordon, Montauban, Ne-
grepelife, Moiffac, Montpelzat, and Caylus.
The diftrict of Rovergue; chief towns, Rodez,
Bournazel, Milhaud, Vabres, Ville Franche,
Mayac, and S. Antonin. 6. The Limofin; chief
towns, Limoges, Chelus, Tulles, Uferche, Vanta-
dour, Brive, Turenne. 7. Perigord; chief towns,
Perigueux, Mucidan, Bergerac, La Force, Ca-
Stillon, Sarlat, Domme, and Montignac. 8. Sain-
tonge; chief towns, Saintes, S. John de Angeli,
Pons, Barbefieux, Mortagne, Royan, Brouage,
Soubize, Tonne-Charente, Toyllebourg, Marennes,
Arvert, and Chalais. Gafcony is fubdivided into
eleven diſtricts, viz. 1. The diftrict of Armagnac ;
chief towns, Auch, L'Ile en Jourdain, Cologne,
Gimont, Verdun, Leyrac, Lectoure, Florence, Fe-
zenfac, Eufe, Mirande, Vic, Caftelnau, and Gre-
nade. 2. The Condomois; chief towns, Con-
dom, Gabaret, Montmorfan. 3. The dutchy of
Albret; chief towns, Nerac, Caftel-Geloufe, Al-
bret, Tartafe. 4. The Chaloffe, or Proper Gaf-
cony; chief towns, S. Severe, and Aire. 5. The
diftrict Des Landes; chief towns, Dax, and Cap-
Breton. 6. The county of Labourd; chief towns,
Bayonne,
through FRANCE.
21
+
Bayonne, Bidache, S. John de Luz, Uftaritz, An-
daye. 7. Lower Navarre, (the upper belongs
to Spain ;) chief towns, S. Palais, S. Jean Pied
de Port, and Mauleon. 8. The principality of
Bearn; chief towns, Pau, Lafcar, Morlas, Or-
tez, Sauveterre, Navarreins, and Oleron. 9. The
county of Bigorre; chief towns, Tarbe, Lourde,
Bagneres, Campan, Baredgo. 10. The diftrict of
Cominges; chief towns, S. Bertrand de Cominges,
Montreiau, S. Beat, Encauffe, Valentine, S. Gau-
dens, Aurignac, L'Ifle en Doden, Lombez, and Mu-
ret. 11. The district of Conferans; the only
town of note is S. Lizier.
Thus far with reſpect to the general govern- The new ac-
ments of France; as for the new acquifitions, quifitions.
thoſe that have been made in the Netherlands,
viz. part of Flanders, the Artois, part of Hai-
nault, and the Cambrefis, are defcribed in the firſt
volume of this work, p. 50, 51. Part of their
German acquifitions, viz. Lorrain and Alface are
deſcribed in the fecond volume, p. 41; ſo that
there remains only the province of Franche
Comté in Germany, and that of Rouffillon in
Spain.
Franche Comté, or the county of Burgundy, was Franche
part of the dutchy of Burgundy, and fubject to Comté.
the Spaniards, till it was wrefted from them by
Lewis XIV, and confirmed to that prince, by the
treaty of Nimeguen, in 1678. It is now a province
of France, bounded by Alface and Lorrain on the
caft; by the dutchy of Burgundy, and part of Cham-
pagne on the weft; by Lorrain on the north; and
by La Breffe and Bugey on the fouth. It is a very
mountainous country, efpecially towardsSwitzerland
and Lorrain, being ſeparated from the former by
mount Jura, which runs all along the eaftern boun-
daries. Before it came into the poffeffion of the
French, it was over-run with woods, but a great
part
£2
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
part of theſe have been fince deſtroyed to ſupply their
iron-works, which are very numerous, where they
make bombs, grenades, bullets, guns, and other mili-
tary implements. Though the country is moun-
tainous, it abounds in corn, wine, and cattle;
and the mountainous part is faid to produce better
paſture than the vallies. They have likewife a
good breed of horfes, feveral quarries of alabafter,
and very confiderable falt-works. Their chief
rivers are the Saone, the Lougnon, the Dou, the
Louve, and the Dain. It is generally divided in-
to four baillages, viz. 1. The baillage of Be-
Sançon; the only town of note, Besançon. 2. The
baillage of Amont; chief towns, Gray, Vefoul,
Marnay, Beaume, Dampierre, and Montbelliard.
3. The baillage of Dole; chief towns, Dole,
Quingey, and Ornans. 4. The bailliage of Aval;
chief towns, Salins, Arbois, S. Claude, and Po-
ligny.
The County
The laft province we have to defcribe of the
of Rouffillon, French dominions, is the county of Rouffillon,
which is part of the acquifitions this crown made.
in the last century, and was relinquifhed to the
French by the Spaniards (to whom it formerly be-
longed) at the Pyrenean treaty in 1659. It is
bounded by the Mediterranean Sea on the eaſt
by the Pyrenean Mountains on the weft; by Lan-
guedoc on the north; and by Catalonia on the
fouth; extending about 55 miles in length from
eaft to weft, and about 40 from north to fouth.
The whole country confifts of one large plain
furrounded by mountains on three fides, and by
the fea on the fourth. It produces plenty of
corn, wine, and fruit, efpecially oranges and
lemons; and has fome good paſture. But
they have very little trade, which is owing to
their dangerous coaft and want of harbours.
They have ſcarce any wood in the country, and
no
-1
!
through FRANCE.
23
no navigable rivers; the chief of them are the
Tet, the Tec, and the Agly; which rifing in the
mountains, fall fuddenly into the Mediterranean,
and may be called rather torrents than rivers. It
is ufually divided into three parts, viz. 1. The
Viguery of Perpignan; chief towns, Perpignan,
Salces, S. Elne, and Collioure. 2. The Viguery
of Conflent; where the only town of note is Vil.
lefranche. 3. The Viguery of French Cerdagne ;
chief towns, Puycerda, and Mount Lewis.
III. Of the civil government of France.
France was formerly a part of the Roman empire, Legiſlative
but raiſed into a ſeparate monarchy by the Franks, power.
who made themſelves mafters of this country in
the beginning of the fifth century. This monar-
chy has continued fince that time in the fuccef-
fion of kings of three feveral races, viz. the
Merovignian, Carolovignian, and Capetine, from
the laft of which the prefent king is defcended.
The government is that of an abfolute mo-
narchy, and the crown is hereditary in the
heirs male of the king, all females being ex-
cluded by the Salique Law. The legiſlative as well
as executive power is vefted folely in the King,
who has all the produce of the country in his
power, the whole kingdom being but one great
farm to the crown. The regal power was for-
merly very much limited either by the nobility of
the kingdom, who generally claimed a great au-
thority in their refpective provinces; or by the
affembly of the three ftates, confifting of the clergy,
nobility, and commons, whofe confent was requi-
fite in making laws or raiſing money; or by the par-
liaments of the feveral governments, particularly
that of Paris,which often affumed a right to oppofe
the
24
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Parliaments
the royal authority, in defence of the liberty and
privileges of the people. But the cardinals Rich-
lieu and Mazarine made their mafters abfolute
fovereigns, by reducing the power and jurifdiction
of the nobility; by fuppreffing the affembly of the
three eftates, which has not been convened fince
the year 1614; and by depriving the parliaments
of their ſhare in the government.
Theſe parliaments are affembled at prefent, on-
of France. ly in order to paſs the king's edicts, which none
of them dare refufe; but in civil caufes, when
the court does not interpoſe, they are ſtill the laſt
refort. They confiſt of a certain number of pre-
fidents and inferior judges, who purchaſe their
places openly, which brings a confiderable re-
venue to the crown. They are fifteen in number,
viz. that of Paris, Touloufe, Roan, Grenoble, Bour-
deaux, Dijon, Aix, Rennes, Pau, Befançon, Mets,
Doway, Perpignan, Arras, and that of Alface,
held at Colmar or Strafburg. Of theſe the parli-
ment of Paris is much the moft confiderable, for
hither the king frequently comes in perfon, and
fees his royal edicts recorded. This parliament
confifts of the Dukes and peers of France, befides
the ordinary judges, and takes cognizance of all
offences committed by peers, where the king does
not iffue a ſpecial commiffion to try them. The
other parliaments are excluded from taking cog-
nizance of any caufes relating to the crown, or
peers of the realm.
Other courts.
Befides the parliaments of France, there are
feveral other fupreme courts for particular branches
of buſineſs, as the chambers of the accounts, e-
ftabliſhed in feveral parts of the kingdom, and
the courts of aids. The chambers of accounts
examine the accounts of the treaſury, receive the
homage of the vaffals of the crown, record
treaties of peace and other contracts and grants
through FRANCE.
25
of the crown. Theſe chambers are twelve in
number, and held at the cities of Paris, Roan,
Dijon, Nantes, Montpellier, Grenoble, Aix, Pau,
Blois, Aire, and Dole. The courts of aids
courts are
are for determining all caufes relating to the
king's revenue, without any appeal to a high-
er judicatory. Thefe
eftabliſhed
at Paris, Montpellier, Roan, Clermont, Mont-
ferrand, Bourdeaux, Aix, Grenoble, and Di-
jon. There is alfo a court called the court of
money, which has the determination of caſes re-
lating to coin and weights; and a court of the
waters and forefts, which takes cognizance of
all offences committed in the king's forefts,
woods, and waters; not to mention the prefidial
courts, and feveral other inferior courts of
juſtice.
The taxes ufually levied in France, are the taille Taxes,
or land-tax, the taillon, the ſubſiſtance money, the
aids, and the gabelles. The taille is only paid by thofe
who hold by baſe tenures, and tradefmen; the no-
bility, clergy, and gentry, as alio the burgeffes of
Paris, and fome other free cities, being exempted
from this duty. The Taillon was eſtabliſhed by king
Henry II. for augmenting the foldiers pay, and is
payable by the fame perfons as the taille, amount-
ing to about a third of that tax. The fubfiftance
is a tax which was first levied by Lewis XIV. for
the fubfiſtance of his armies in their winter quar-
ters, and is paid in the fame manner as the taille.
The aids are all duties and cuftoms on goods and
merchandizes, except falt. The gabelles are the
taxes arifing by falt. The other extraordinary
taxes are the capitation, or poll-tax; the tenths of
all eftates, offices, and employments; the fiftieth
penny, from which neither the nobility nor clergy
are exempted; the tenths of all the estates of the
kingdom; and the tenths and free-gifts of the
VOL. IV.
C
clergy,
26
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Manner of
taxes.
clergy, who are allowed to tax themſelves, but
'tis expected they fhould pay at leaſt as much as
the laity; and laftly, the revenue arifing from
the crown-lands, rents, fines, and forfeitures, all
which are computed to amount to upwards of
fixteen millions Sterling, per annum; befides
which, vaft fums are levied by raifing and lower-
ing the coin at pleaſure, by compounding de-
bentures and government-bills, and by other op-
preffive methods.
For the better collecting of theſe taxes, France
collecting the is divided into twenty-five generalities, or pro-
vinces, over each of which there is an officer,
called an intendant, appointed by the king, who
takes cognizance both of civil and criminal caufes,
as well as of the finances, and other matters con-
cerning the public good and the king's interefts.
The number of parifhes contained in all the ge-
neralities, amount to 38502; which compre-
hends 1,585,112 families liable to pay the land-
tax And the whole number of the inhabitants
of France is reckoned at about twenty millions.
The prefent
king.
The prefent French king is Lewis XV. great-
grandfon of Lewis XIV. and fon of the late duke
of Burgundy, and Mary Adelaide, daughter of Victor
Amadeus duke of Savoy. He was born Feb. 15.
1710, fucceeded to the crown Sept. 1. 1715.
and married on Sept. 5. 1725, Princefs Mary
Lecfinsky, daughter of Stanislaus, the depofed
king of Poland, by whom he has iffue feveral
daughters, and a dauphin, named Lewis, born
Auguſt 24, 1729. The king ftiles himſelf Lewis
by the grace of God, king of France and
Navarre, and from other princes he receives
the title, of the Moft Chriftian King. He has
fix great councils to affift him in the govern-
of the kingdom, viz. the council of
ftate, the council of finances, the council of dif
patches
ment
X
through FRANCE.
27
patches or that of the fecretaries of ftate, the
privy-council, the council of conſcience, and the
council of commerce.
The great officers of the crown, are the chan- Crown
cellor, who prefides in all courts and councils of officers.
ftate in the king's abfence, the keeper of the
feals, four fecretaries of ftate, the marfhals of
France, the colonel general of the horſe, the
great mafter of the artillery, the admiral of France,
two vice-admirals, the general of the galleys, the
four great officers of the order of the Holy Ghoft,
viz. the chancellor, the mafter of the ceremo-
nies, the great treafurer, and the fecretary; the
chief prefidents of the feveral parliaments, the go-
vernors and lieutenant generals of the provinces.
The principal officers of the houſhold are, the
great mafter of the houfhold, the great maſter of
the horſe, the great almoner, the great chamber-
lain, the gentlemen of the bed-chamber, the
great butler, the great huntſman, the four cap-
tains of the garde du corps, and the chief porter.
The military power of France is far fuperior to Military
that of any other kingdom in Europe. In time power.
of peace they have generally 200,000 men in
pay, and in time of war fometimes 400,000; a
great many of whom are foreigners, viz. Swiss,
Germans, Scotch, Irish, Italians, and Swedes.
With fo formidable an army, their king is not
only able to fupport his arbitrary power among
his own fubjects, but likewife to keep all his neigh-
bours in continual alarm, from an apprehenfion of
falling into the fame flavifh fubjection. Their na-
val power was very confiderable under the reign
of Lewis XIV. till the famous battle of La Hogue,
when it was almoft totally demoliſhed. From
that time it could not recover itſelf, till under
the adminiſtration of Cardinal Fleury, when this
great minifter by putting the Finances in good or-
C 2
der,
28
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Arms of
France.
The efta-
gion is the
der, and promoting the trade and navigation of
his countrymen, had almoſt reſtored the French
navy to its ancient fplendor. But the preſent
war has put a stop to the increaſe of their power
at fea, by the two compleat victories gained over
the French fleets in 1747, the firft by the ad-
mirals Anfon and Warren, and the fecond by Sir
Edward Hawke, which in all probability have
difabled the French to that degree, as to render
them incapable of fitting out any confiderable
fleets, or making any figure at fea, the better part
of this century.
The arms of France are three flower de luces
Or, in a field Azure, fupported by two angels in
the habit of Levites, having each of them a banner
in his hands with the fame arms. The creft is
an open crown, the whole under a grand Azure
pavilion ftrewed with flowers de luces Or and
ermins, and over it a clofe crown with a double
flower de luce Or; on the fides of it are flying
ftreamers, on which are written the words uſed
in battle, Montjoye, S. Denis, and above them
on the royal banner or oriflame, Lilia non labo-
rant neque nent, taken from Scripture, which are
(fay the French) an allufion to the Salique law,
which excludes females from the fupreme com-
mand.
IV. Of the ecclefiaftical government of
France.
The established religion in France is the Ro-
bliſhed reli. man Catholic, but with feveral reſtrictions and pri-
vileges in point of difcipline peculiar to the Galli-
can church. The proteftant religion was re-
ceived by a great number of the inhabitants foon
after the reformation, and after a long feries of
civil wars was eſtabliſhed by a royal edict, called
Roman Ca.
tholic.
the
through FRANCE.
29
teftants.
the edict of Nants, under the reign of Henry IV.
But this edict having been repealed by Lewis XIV. Perfecution
in 1685, a perfecution enfued, which obliged im- of the Pro-
menfe numbers of the proteftant inhabitants to fly
for ſhelter to foreign countries. This perfecution
is now allowed by the French themſelves to have
been infinitely prejudicial to their country, for they
not only loft thereby the moft induftrious part of
the inhabitants, but they had the mortification
of feeing their refugees fet up manufactories
in every country where they came, which con-
fiderably diminiſhed the demand for French com-
modities. But to return to the Roman Catholics
of this kingdom, they are divided into two great
parties, one of them zealous in defending the
rights of the Gallican church againſt the incroach-
ments of the fee of Rome; and the other no lefs
zealous in fupporting the pope's authority. The
former are called Fanfenifts from their adhering to
fome ſpeculative notions of fanfenius biſhop of Ipres
concerning grace and free-will; and the others
Molinis from their following the oppofite fenti-
ments of Molina a Spanish Jefuit. The Molinistical
party has now the upper-hand, from the greatacfen-
dancy the Jefuits its abettors have at court, to
whofe indefatigable induſtry we muſt aſcribe the
receiving of the conftitution Unigenitus after fo
long and warm a ſtruggle.
Privileges of
All mere fpiritual caufes are cognizable in the
ecclefiaftic courts. The privileges of the clergy the clergy.
are that they cannot be brought before any lay
jurifdiction for perfonal matters; that they are
exempt from the taille or land-tax; that their
neceflary moveables cannot be feized; that they
are exempted from quartering foldiers; and that
their perfons cannot be taken in civil actions.
The king nominates to all bifhoprics and abbeys,
by virtue of the concordat at Bologna between
C 3
Franci
30
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
France I. and Leo X; and the pope afterwards.
grants his bulls of confecration, and receives the
annates or firft-fruits. The crown feizes the
temporalities of all vacant archbishoprics and bi-
fhoprics, and this in France is called the Regale.
Liberty of the The liberties of the Gallican church diftinct from
Gallican
church.
Affemblies of
her privileges are two, firft, that the pope cannot
intermeddle in things relating to temporal affairs
in any of the king's dominions; and ſecondly,
that though he be acknowledged head of the
church in fpirituals, yet his power is nevertheleſs
bounded by canons, and ancient councils; for
the Gallican church holds that a general council is
fuperior to the pope.
The clergy of France have their affemblies,
of the clergy which cannot be held without leave from the
king. Theſe affemblies are of two kinds, the
one filed general, becauſe it is compoſed of the
deputies of all the ecclefiaftical provinces; the
other private, by reafon it confifts only of fuch
prelates as are about Paris, when there is not
time enough to affemble the deputies of the pro-
vinces. The general affemblies are divided into
ordinary and extraordinary; the extraordinary are
called on great emergencies, and the ordinary
have their ſtated times, being held every five
years. The bufinefs of the ordinary affemblies is
to renew their contract for paying their tenths to
the king, which is in force ten years; and to
grant a further fupply to the crown, which fup-
ply paffes under the name of a free gift, and is
levyed on all the clergy of France, according to
the neceffities of the ftate. The fum which is
demanded by way of free gift, is ufually named
by the court, and they feldom accept of less than
they aſk.
There are nine fuperior ecclefiaftic
courts, eſtabliſhed in feveral parts of the king-
dom,
through FRANCE.
31
dom, which are the laft refort within their re-
ſpective limits. Theſe courts are held at Paris.
Roan, Lyons, Tours, Touloufe, Bourges, Bourdeaux,
Aix, and Pau.
rics and fuf-
The kingdom of France contains eighteen arch- Archbishop-
bishoprics, and an hundred and thirteen bifhop- fragans.
rics, viz.
1. The archbishop of Paris; his fuffragans are,
the biſhops of Chartres, Meaux, Orleans, and
Blois.
2. The archbishop of Lyons; fuffragans, the
biſhops of Autun, Langres, Macon, and Chalons
fur Saone.
3. The archbishop of Roan; fuffragans, the
bishops of Bayeux, Avranche, Evreux, Seez, Li-
fieux, and Coutances.
4. The archbishop of Tours; fuffragans, the
bishops of Mans, Angers, Rennes, Nantes, Quim-
percorentin or Cornouaille, Vennes, S. Pol de
Leon, Treguier, S. Brieux, S. Malo, and Dol.
5. The archbishop of Sens; fuffragans, the
bishops of Troyes, Auxerre, Nevers, and Beth-
lem.
6. The archbishop of Rheims; fuffragans, the
bishops of Soiffons, Chalons in Champagne, Laon,
Senlis, Beauvais, Amiens, Noyons, and Boulogne.
7. The archbishop of Cambray; fuffragan, the
biſhops of Arras, Tournay, and S. Omer.
8. The archbishop of Befançon; fuffragans, the
biſhop of Bellay, and other bishoprics out of the
kingdom.
9. The archbishop of Vienne; fuffragans, the
biſhops of Grenoble, Viviers, Valence, Die, and
Geneva, which laft is out of France.
10. The archbishop of Arles; fuffragans, the
bishops of Marſeille, S. Paul trois Chateaux, Tou-
lon, and Orange.
C 4
11. The
32
•
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Number of
and their re-
venue.
11. The archbiſhop of Bourges; fuffragans, the
biſhops of Clermont, Limoges, Puy, Tulles, and
S. Flours.
12. The archbiſhop of Alby; fuffragans, the
bishops of Rhodez, Caftres, Cahors, Vabres, and
Mende.
13. The archbishop of Bourdeaux ; fuffragans,
the bishops of Agen, Augouleme, Saintes, Poitiers,
Perigueux, Condom, Sarlat, Rochelle, and Lu-
con.
14. The archbiſhop of Auche; fuffragans, the
biſhops of Acqus, Lectoure, Comminges, Conferans,
Aire, Bazas, Turbes, Oleron, L'Efcar, and
Bayonne.
15. The archbiſhop of Narbonne; fuffragans,
the biſhops of Bezieres, Agde, Carcaffonne, Nifmes,
Montpellier, Lodeve, Uzés, S. Pons, Aleth, Alais,
and Perpignan.
16. The archbishop of Toulouse; fuffragans,
the biſhops of Montauban, Mirepoix, Lavaur,
Rieux, Lombez, S. Papoul, and Pamiers.
17. The archbiſhop of Aix; fuffragans, the
bishops of Apt, Riez, Frejus, Gap, and Sisteron.
18. The archbishop of Embrun; fuffragans,
the biſhops of Digne, Graffe, Vence, Glandeve,
and Senez.
Befides thefe, there are the three bishoprics of
Ecclefiaftics Metz, Toul, and Verdun in Lorrain, all fuffra-
gans to the archbishop of Triers in Germany;
The bishop of Strafburg in Alface, fuffragan to
the archbishop of Mentz; and the bishop of Per-
pignan in Rouillon, fuffragan to the archbiſhop
of Terragona in Spain. Thefe archbishoprics
and bifhoprics contain 40,000 parishes, 16 heads
of religious orders, 1356 abbeys of monks,
1557 nunneries, 12400 priories, 15200 chapels,
256 commanderies of Malta, and 14778 con-
vents of Jefuits and other friars. Infomuch that
they
through FRANCE.
33
they reckon in all upwards 200,000 monks and
nuns, and that the revenues of the clergy and
the religious houſes of all kinds amount to twenty-
fix millions Sterling per annum.
V. Of the perfons, manners, customs, learn-
ing, language, trade, coins, and manner of
travelling of the French.
The French are generally of a middling ftature, Perfons and
more robuſt and better made than the Spaniards virtues of the
and Italians, but inferior in this refpect to the French.
English, Germans, and Flemmings. The women
are handfomer in fome provinces than others, as
in part of Guienne, towards Bourdeaux, part of
Dauphiné, Languedoc, and Provence. They are
a people of quick underſtanding and nice taſte, of
an active and enterprizing difpofition, and gene-
rally very capable of whatever they undertake.
with refpect either to arts, fciences, or arms.
They are ready at imitating foreign inventions,
and quick themſelves at inventing, efpecially with
regard to modes, dreffes, and manner of living.
They are brave and valiant, particularly the bet-
ter fort, extremely fond of their prince, polite
and affable to ſtrangers, fo as to be looked upon
as mafters of complaifance and good breeding.
But theſe virtues are balanced by feveral vices; Their vis
for they are generally reckoned fiery, impatient,
inconftant, and of a reftlefs difpofition, which in
volves them either in continual law-fuits, and ci-
vil broils at home, or obliges their princes to
engage them in foreign wars. They are much
addicted to gaming, which is the very foul
of all their affemblies, and the only means for
a foreigner to ingratiate himself in their company..
The young people are debauched and irreligious;
C 5
but
34
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Difference of
ranks and
conditions.
but we must own that this is compenfated
by the folidity, piety, and good behaviour of the
maturer fort. They are very talkative, eſpecially
thofe of the female Sex, who are nevertheleſs not
only very pleafing in difcourfe, but alſo of a grace.
ful and winning deportment. Their fiery tem-
per hurries them often into quarrels and duels;
but the latter are not fo frequent fince the late
king's fevere edicts againſt this barbarous and
Gothic cuftom. They are charged likewife with
infincerity in their complaifance, and with being
little better than genteel hypocrites in their cringes
and impertinent ceremonics.
The French are divided into three claffes or
eftates, the clergy, the nobility, and the third
eftate. Of the clergy we have fpoken fufficient-
ly in the preceding fection. The nobility con-
fifts of four degrees, viz. the princes of the blood,
the higher nobility, the ordinary nobility, and the
nobility lately made.
The dukes and counts,
peers of France, have the precedence among the
higher nobility, next to the princes of the blood.
There are three orders of knight-hood in France,
that of S. Michael, inftituted in 1469 by Lewis
XI. and confifting of about 100 knights, but at
prefent in no great efteem. That of the Holy
Ghoft, inftituted in 1578, by Henry III. com-
pofed of 100 perfons, and conferred only on
people of the firft quality; and that of S. Lewis
inftituted in 1693, by Lewis XIV. and defigned
purely for the encouragement of the generals and
officers of the army. The French include all
their gentry under the general title of nobility or
noblefle. Nobility may be loft by following any
trade, or taking a farm, or the exercife of me-
chanic arts; though Lewis XIV. permitted per-
fons of quality to apply themfelves to foreign
commerce, without derogating from their nobility.
The
through FRANCE.
35
The third are the Roturiers, and comprehends their
tradefman, yeomen, and hufbandmen, or peaſants.
Thefe poor people are as much tyrannized over by
the quality, as the quality and the reſt of the fub-
jects by the court. If a peaſant or a tradeſmen
meets a gentleman upon the road, he gets out
of the way as foon as poffible, and makes ten
thouſand cringes as he paffes by, or he may ex-
pect to be well drubbed without remedy; a very
different treatment from that of our common
people in England, who we muft own very fre-
quently abuſe the liberty they enjoy, and want a
little more fubordination to their betters.
The French diet is not near fo grofs as ours, Diet,
confifting chiefly of bread and herbs. Their bread
is exceeding good, and fo is their beef and mutton,
but their veal is inferior to ours. They boil and
roaft their meat much longer than we do, which
exempts them from the grofs humours to which
the crudity of our meat fubjects us. They are fond
of foops, ragoos, and made difhes, which they drefs
the beſt of any people in Europe. Their vegetable
food confifts of kidney-beans, white lentils, tur-
nips, red-onions, and garlick, leeks, lettice, white-
beets, and afparagus. They have ſcarce any po-
tatoes, but great quantities of forrel and mufh-
roon, eſpecially the latter, of which they are very
fond. The city of Paris is well ſerved with
carp, whereof they eat a great quantity in Lent,
as alſo of macreuſe a kind of fea-duck, which has
a rank fiſhy tafte. Their bon-chretien and virgo-
leufe pears are very good, as alfo their Kentifh-
peppin, as we call it, and their winter calvil, and
pome d'apis; but they have nothing to compare
to our golden-pippen. The wines about Paris
are fmall but good in their kind, but thoſe of
Champagne and Burgundy are deſervedly the moſt
efteemed. The have likewife feveral other good
C 6
wines
↑
36
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
wines, fuch as Vin de Turenne in Anjou, Vins de
Camp de Perdrix and Cote Brulée in Dauphiné,
de L'Hermitage upon the Rhine, the red and
white S. Laurence from Provence, the white wines
of Orleans, Bourdeaux claret, thofe excellent
wines from Cahors, and the red and white Cabre-
ton from about Bayonne. Befides wines there is
no entertainment without drinking different forts
of ſtrong waters at the defert, particularly rati-
fias, citron waters, vatée, and fennouillet. The
cyder of Normandy is very good, and by keeping
mends in colour and tafte. They are great
drinkers of coffee, tea, and chocolate, which are
uſed not only in private houſes, but likewife in
public coffee-houfes as with us, where you may
have alfo all the above-mentioned wines and
ftrong-waters.
Diverfions. The ufual diverfions of the French are either
plays, gaming, walking, or taking the air in
coaches. They have two kinds of play-houfes,
one for operas, and another for comedies. Their
operas at Paris are extremely fine, the mufic and
finging excellent, the ftage large and magnificent,
and ſupplied with good actors, the ſcenes well
fuited, and changed almoft imperceptibly; the
dancing exquifite; the cloathing rich, and proper,
and with great variety; they are frequented by a
vaft concourſe of the nobility, who ufually join
in chorus with the actors. The difpofition of
their theatres for comedies is much the ſame,
and they have generally fome farce or entertain-
ment after the play, a cuſtom which we have bor-
rowed of them. They avoid all obfcenity and
immorality upon the ftage as much as poffible,
and in general it may be faid, that they have
carried their theatrical entertainments to the higheſt
degree of perfection.
Since
through FRANCE.
37
Since the recovery of letters the French have Learning and
language.
diſtinguiſhed themſelves in the arts and fciences,
fo as to rival moſt nations in Europe. The
encouragement given by the late king to men
of letters, and the feveral uſeful eſtabliſhments
for promoting the arts and fciences, contri-
buted not a little to the progreſs this nation
made in the last century, in all branches of learn-
ing. The reputation they have acquired in this
reſpect has been raiſed by the ſpreading of their
language, which is now become almoft univerfal,
and commonly uſed in moft courts in Europe.
This language. is compofed chiefly of the Latin,
with a mixture of ſeveral German and Gothic
words, but has been lately refined by the French
academy at Paris, fo as to be admired for its
fweetness, perfpicuity, and elegance; though for
ftrength and copioufnefs it is far inferior to the
English. Befides the feveral academies at Paris,
for promoting the fciences and the polite arts, of
which we ſhall take farther notice in the defcrip.
tion of that metropolis, the French have nine Univerſities,
teen univerſities, which according to their alpha-
betical order are thofe of Aix, Angers, Avignon,
Befançon, Bourdeaux, Bourges, Caen, Cahors,
Doway, Montpellier, Nantes, Orleans, Paris (the
principal univerfity of the whole kingdom) Poi-
tiers, Pont a-Moxon, Perpignan, Rheims, Tou-
loufe, and Valence.
The fituation of France is very advantageous Trade.
for trade, as it lies on the ocean, the English
channel, and the Mediterranean fea, and is wa-
tered by fo many large and navigable rivers.
Their manufactures of linen, woolen, filk, and
lace, are vastly confiderable; and their foreign
trade to Spain, Italy, Turkey, and the Eaſt and
Weft Indies prodigiouſly improved of late, eſpe-
cially during the adminiſtration of cardinal Fleury,
whofe
38
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Coins.
1
whofe chief intent was to increaſe the wealth
and commerce of his country. Their trade
to Great Britain was very beneficial before
the prefent war, the return of their wines, filks,
linen, and lace, having been moftly in treaſure.
The chief commodities of this country, befides
the manufactures above-mentioned, are falt, fish,
corn, wine, oil, filk, flax, fruits of all forts,
coral, canvafs, woods, fkins, verdigreafe, Cremor
Tartaris, &c. But for a more diftinct account of
the trade of France, we refer the reader to the fe-
veral towns and cities defcribed in this volume, efpe-
cially in the maritime provinces, where we fhall
take care to mention whatever concerns the par-
ticular branches of trade and manufactures, for
which each place is diftinguiſhed.
3.
;
France being fubject all to one prince, has not
fuch a variety of coin as fome other countries,
which makes it eaſier for travellers.
1. Their
loweſt coin is called a liard, two of which
make about one half-penny Engliſh. 2.Their next
piece is two liards, or a half-penny Engliſh.
Their third piece is one fol, containing four liards
of which their are two pieces of the fame value,
the one is of copper, which is fomewhat bigger
than an English half-penny; the other is a ſmall
piece of mixt metal. 4. The fourth is of a
fol and a half value, of which there are various
forts, but they are all of one value.
5. The
fifth is a piece of two fols, and is of the fame
kind of mixt metal as the one fol piece. 6. The
fixth, is a fix fol piece, and is the lowest filver
coin. 7. The feventh is a twelve fol piece. 8.
The eighth is a twenty-four fols piece, a ſmall
matter more than a fhilling English. 9. The
ninth is a three livre piece, called a French
crown. N. B. A livre is an imaginary coin,
containing twenty fols. 10. The tenth is a fix
livre
through FRANCE.
39
livre piece, and is the largeſt French filver coin.
II. The eleventh is the half Louis d'Or, a gold
piece worth 12 livres, and equal to half a guinea.
12. The twelfth is the Louis d'Or, which is a
piece of gold worth 24 livres, and equal to a
guinea English money, in thoſe parts of France
where guineas are current, otherwife a guinea
does not país for quite ſo much.
Travelling is no where more convenient than Manner of
in France, with refpect as well to carriages as ac- travelling.
commodations on the road. Where there is con-
veniency of rivers, they have water-carriages,
which are large boats drawn by horfes. Their
land carriages are of four forts, viz. poft chaifes,
the caroffe or ftage-coach, the coche, and the di-
ligence or flying-coach. Their poft-chaiſes are Poſt-chaiſes
made much in the fame manner as ours, and are to and horſes.
be had at a minute's warning all over the kingdom.
The price of a poſt-chaife is at the rate of
30 fols each poft. Travelling by post-horſes,
you fave the expence of the chaife, but it is not
fo pleafant, nor can you carry fo much baggage.
In moft towns they have a little book, which de-
termines the price of poft-horfes, either with or
without a chaife, and the number of stages you
pay for, to prevent travellers from being impofed
upon by the poftilion. The common price of
riding poſt uſed to be only two livres or forty fols
a poit, that is twenty fols for each horfe, and
ten fols to the poftilion; but it is now raiſed to
fixty fols a poft, viz. thirty fols for each horfe.
The poftilion by authority can demand no more
than five fols a poſt for himſelf; yet cuſtom has
increaſed it to ten fols; and not content with this,
by his importunity and impertinence he fre-
quently exacts four or five fols more. The dif
tance of each pott is about fix miles. All thoſe
poíts that lead from Paris, or from any place
where the king actually refides, are called royal-
pofts,
40
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Stage-
coaches.
pofts, and the charge of riding them is double
the others, with regard to the horfes, but not
to the poftilion. Befides, it is an eftablifhed cuf-
tom to require fifteen fols for coming into Paris.
The poſt-ſtages are ſeldom above one poſt and a
half, or two pofts long, and then you change
both horſes and poftilion. The horſes are none
of the beſt, being frequently apt to ftumble; for
which reafon the poftilions are generally provided
with jack-boots made of very hard leather, that
if the horſe ſhould fall upon them, they may
flip their leg out of the boot, while it is under
the beaft, without injury. This precaution may
be recommended to gentlemen that travel with
poft-horſes; and 'tis alſo adviſeable when the horſe
proves dull, as is often the cafe, to make the pof
tilion go behind, and drive the beaft before him,
for they are generally provided with better horfes,
and have a peculiar knack of fpurring them on.
The caroffe is not unlike our ftage-coach, con-
taining room for fix paffengers, but does not move
fo quick, and is more embarraffed with goods
and baggage. The coche is a large heavy ma-
chine, which ferves the ufe both of waggon and
coach; it is long ſhaped, and provided with win-
dows at the fides, containing generally fixteen paf-
fengers, viz. twelve in the body of the coach,
fitting two a breaft, and two on each fide at the
door of the entrance, a feat being provided there
for that purpoſe. It is furnished with two large
conveniencies, one before and another behind,
which are made of baſket wicker, and are there-
fore called baſkets. Into theſe baſkets they put
large quantities of goods, which makes it very
heavy in drawing. Sometimes both the baskets
are filled with goods, and fometimes the fore one
is left empty for paffengers, in which the fare is
leſs than in the coach, and they have a covering
over-head to preſerve them from the injury of the
weather.
}
through FRANCE.
4I
weather. Its motion is but flow, feldom exceed-
ing that of a brisk walk, and as the roads are ge-
nerally paved with large ftone, this kind of vehicle
is generally very jumbling and difagreeable. The
expence of travelling with the caroffe or ftage-coach
is lefs than half the fum of riding-poft, but then you
are to make an allowance for being longer upon the
road. As for the particular fares of ftage coaches,
we ſhall mention them in each journey; only we
are to obſerve here that the expence of baggage
is paid apart, and is generally three fols for every
pound above fourteen or fifteen pound weight,
which is free. As to victuals, your fafeft way of
travelling poſt is to know the price of every
thing before you order it; but with the ftage-
coach, your meals are generally regulated at fixed
prices, as with us; your entertainment, is exceed-
ing good, and the whole expence feldom exceeds
five or fix livres a day. 'Tis cuftomary after
meals to give a couple of fols to the fervants.
The Diligence is a kind of ftage coach fo called
frem its expedition, and differs from the caroffe
or ordinary ſtage-coach, in little elfe but in mov-
ing with greater velocity. It is ufed chiefly
in travelling from Paris to Lyens, and from Paris
to Bruſſels, and has its fixt prices, which we fhall
give in its proper place, as alfo the days that this
as well as the ordinary ftage-coaches fet out
from Paris to moſt parts of France.
CHA P. II.
Journey from Dover to Paris.
TRA
RAVELLERS fetting out from Dover Direction for
agree for their paflage in the packet-boat travellers
to Calais, which is half a guinea for a gen-
tleman,
from Dover
to Paris,
42
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
tleman, and five fhillings for each fervant or at-
tendant. Before you embark, you carry your
baggage to the custom houſe, where it is fearched,
for which you pay fix-pence, and fix-pence more,
called head-money. The diftance from Dover
to Calais is twenty-one miles. Upon approach-
ing the town, you ſee ſeveral batteries of cannon
planted on the fhore, to keep the coaft clear in
war time. Coming afhore, you are ordered to
the intelligence office where your name is ta-
ken down, thence you are conducted to the
fearcher's office, thence to the governor's houſe,
to be interrogated, and thence to the cuſtom-houſe,
where your baggage is ftrictly fearched. To avoid.
the trouble of having your baggage fearched any
more on the road to Paris, or from going into
the cuſtom-houſe at this metropolis, 'tis advifable
to get your trunk plumbed for Lyons, and to have
it directed for you at Paris, to be fent by the
the flage-coach. In the firft volume of this work,
p. 268, we have given a deſcription of Calais,
fo that there is no occafion to repeat it here.
The principal inn in the town is the poft- houfe,
at the fign of the Silver Lion. The Prince of
Orange is likewife a good houſe. 'Tis proper be-
fore you fet out for Paris to provide yourſelf with a
paffport. A poft-chaife to Paris cofts two guineas
and a half; and you may fend your trunk by the
ftage-coach, which fets out twice a week from
Calais to Paris, and is feven days on the road;
the fare is thirty livres for each paffenger, and
three fols per pound for his baggage. The coach
from Paris to Calais and Dunkirk ſets up at the
Grand Cerf rue S. Denis. As the poft road
very often differs from the road ufed by the ftage-
coach; when this happens, we ſhall give both
routs, marking the diftance in the poft route by
pofts, each of which is fix miles; and the
diſtance
through FRANCE.
43
diſtance in the coach route by English miles,
according to our ufual method, with this ad-
dition, that we ſhall mention the ſtages, where the
coach ftops to dine, and where to fup.
Poft route from Calais to Paris.
CALAIS
Haut Buiffon
Marquile
Pofts.
I
I
BOULOGNE
Neufchatel
Iz
Franc
I
MONTREUIL
I
Nampont
1 ½
Bernay
1
Nouvion
I
I
ABBEVILLE
Ailly le haut Clocher
Flixcourt
Pecquigny
AMIENS
Hebecourt
Flers
Breteuil
I
I
I
플
​I
1 1/
लाल लाल
Vavigny
S. Fuſt
Clermont
Lingueville
CHANTILLY
Lufarche
Ecouen
S. DENIS
I
11/1/
I
I
I
I
PARIS
Poft royal.
In all thirty poſts and a half.
The
44
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The coach route from Calais to Paris.
D. Signifies the place where you dine, S. where
!
you fup.
CALAIS
D. 12 Marquife
S. 15 BOULOGNE
D 18 Franc
12
Engliſh miles from one place to another.
27
45
S. 12 MONTREUIL
57
D. 12 Bernay
69
S. 12 ABBEVILLE
81
D. 12 Airennes
93
S. 12 Poix
105
D. 18 Oudeuil
123
S. 12 BEAUVAIS
135
D. 15 Tillard
150
S. 9 Beaumont
D. 12 Moiſette
159
171
Engliſh miles from Calais
Boulogne.
ปี
S. 12 PARIS
183
Remarkable places in the poft-route.
I. BOULOGNE.
Boulogne is a fea-port of France in the province
of Picardy, and capital of the diftrict of Boulon-
nois, in caft longitude 1. 30. latitude 50. 40.
This is a very ancient town, fuppofed by fome
to be the Iccius Portus of Cæfar, and by
others the Geforiacum of Pliny. It ftands
at the mouth of the little river Liane, which
forms its harbour; and is divided into the
upper and lower town. The former is well for-
tified with good walls and a ftrong citadel, adorned
with a handſome fquare, where there is a town-
houfe
through FRANCE.
45
houſe remarkable for its clock, and a college of the
fathers of the oratory. The lower town is inhabited
chiefly by merchants, and lies along the harbour,
which was formerly very confiderable, but is now
incapable of receiving veffels of burthen. This
harbour is defended towards the river by a mole
which ſhelters it from the winds, and is frequent-
ed chiefly by the Engliſh and Flemmings becauſe
of the ſhortneſs and conveniency of the paffage.
Near the harbour there are ſome ancient ruins,
and among the reft an octagon tower faid to be
built by Julius Cæfar, and fome old fortifications
built by the English when they were mafters of
this city. In this part of the town there are two
great freets, which run in a parallel line along
the river: Thefe terminate in the high ftreet,
where there is a market-place and the cathedral.
The cathedral is dedicated to the Virgin, and was
built by S. Ide countefs of Boulogne, mother of
Godfrey of Bouillon, and of Baldwin, both kings
of Ferufalem, and born in the upper town of
Boulogne. This church was formerly very much
frequented by pilgrims, becauſe of an image of
the Virgin, which is ftill preferved behind the
choir in a chapel adorned with lamps and other
devout offerings. There are likewife in this part
of the town ſeveral monafteries of men and wo-
men, as thoſe of the Urfulines, the nuns of the
annunciation, the cordeliers, the capuchins, and
minims. This city was formerly very confider-
able for its trade; before the harbour was fpoilt
by a bank, which the emperor Maximilian is
faid to have raiſed before it. 'Tis now the fee of
a bifhop, fuffragan of Rheims; and likewife a
fenefchal's jurifdiction, the feat of bailiwic, and
court of admiralty. King Henry VIII. of Eng-
land took it in 1544, and fortified the lower
town, but finding it would coft him more
to
46
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Montreuil.
Abbeville.
to kept it than it was worth, quitted it by treaty
in 1546 for 800,000 crowns.
II. MONTREUIL.
Montreuil is a town of France in the province
of Picardy, and county of Ponthieu, in eaft lon-
gitude 1. 45. latitude 50. 30. It is fituate on a
hill, the foot of which is watered by the river
Canche, about nine miles from the fea, from
whence pretty large boats come up with the
tide. They divide it into the upper and lower
town, the lower lies along the river Canche,
and is feparated from the upper by a fingle wall.
The town in general is pretty well fortified, and
defended by a good citadel. 'Tis the feat of a
bailiwic, and has two ancient abbeys of Benedic-
tins, one of monks, the other of nuns, from
whence its Latin name Monafteriolum is moft pro-
bably derived. It has fix parishes, Our Lady,
S. Peter, S. Valois, S. James, S. Firmin, and S.
Nicholas, which are in the lower town. There
is likewiſe a feminary, an hofpital, and a convent
of Carmelites, with another of Capuchins. The
royal bailiwic belongs to the jurifdiction of A-
miens.
III. ABBEVILLE.
Abbeville is a city of France in the province of
Picardy, and capital of the county of Ponthieu, in
caft longitude 2. latitude 50. 7. A caftle was built
here in 936, by Hugh Capet, and the town it-
felf was built by S. Riquier the abbot, from whom
it took its name of Abbatis Villa or Abbevilla.
It is a large city, fituated in a marshy dirty coun-
try, on the river Somme, which divides it into
two parts. The place is ftrong by fituation, and
moreover is well fortified, the walls being flanked
with baſtions and furrounded with large ditches;
it
4
through FRANCE.
47
it is called the maiden town, becauſe it was ne-
ver taken by an enemy. There is a very confi-
derable woolen manufacture in this city, faid to
equal that of any town in England. It has like-
wife a pretty good trade in wool and corn, be-
ing but fourteen miles diftant from the English
channel, with which it has a communication by
the river Somme, which brings veffels up to the
middle of the town. It enjoys many privileges,
has a bailiwic and prefidial court, and contains
twelve pariſhes, with feveral monafteries, and a
college of canons.
IV. PECQUIGNY.
Pecquigny is a ſmall town of France, in the Pecquigny.
province of Picardy, and county of Ponthieu in
eaft longitude 2. 15. latitude 49. 55. It is fi-
tuated on the river Somme, and has the title of
a barony, giving name to the noble family of
Pecquigny, who are Vidams of Amiens under the
biſhop. The earth of the adjacent country is of
a combustible nature, and furniſhes the inhabi-
tants with turf for fuel. About three miles from
hence ftands the famous Abbey du Gard of the
Ciftercian order.
V. AMIENS.
Amiens is the capital of the province of Picar- Amiens,
dy in France, in eaft longitude 2. 30. latitude 49.
50. It is a large pleaſant city, agreeably fituated
on the river Somme, and faid to have received its
Latin name Ambianum from being every where
encompaſſed with water. 'Tis a place of great
antiquity, being mentioned by Cæfar as a town
that had made a vigorous refiftance againſt the
Romans, and where he convened a general
affembly of the Gauls, after having made him-
felf maſter of it. The emperors Antoninus,
Marcus
48
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Marcus Aurelius, Conftantine, Conftans, Julian,
and feveral others, refided here a confiderable
time. The town is encompaffed with a wall and
other fortifications, and the ramparts planted with
trees. The citadel was built by Henry IV, and
paffes for one of the moſt regular in Europe.
There are but five gates that fhut, that of S.
Peter is near the citadel, and fhews the way to
Dourlens. From thence to the gate of Noyon,
the ramparts form a moft agreeable walk, becaufe
of the alleys of elms with which they are co-
vered. 'Tis on this fide that the river Somme
enters Amiens by three different channels under
as many bridges, which are thofe of the Celeftins,
of Barabat, and the Change. Theſe channels,
after washing the town in feveral places, where
they are of uſe in its different manufactures,
unite at the other end by the bridge of S. Michael.
Here there is a key for the boats that come from
Abbeville with goods brought by fea. At the gate
of Noyon there is a fuburb, remarkable for the
abbey of S. Achen. Next to this gate you come to
that of Paris, where there is a long mall between
two rows of trees. The houſes are well built,
the streets ſpacious, embelliſhed with handſome
fquares and noble buildings, particularly the streets
de la Chauffee, S. Leu, the Dominicans, S. Mary,
and S. Dennis. The cathedral dedicated to our
Lady, is one of the largeſt and fineft in France,
adorned with excellent paintings, fine pillars,
chapels, and tombs. Each pillar is ornamented
with pictures, three of which in the body of the
church, reprefenting the triumph of the Vir-
gin, are of white marble and excellent work-
manſhip. They pretend to have the head of
S. John Baptist in this church, and that it was
brought from Conftantinople in 1204, by Valon
I
de
through FRANCE.
49
de Sarton a gentleman of Picardy. The other
places worth ſeeing are the palace of the bailiwic,
the town-houſe, the fquare des Fleurs, and the
great market place. This town is the feat of
a biſhop, fuffragan of Rheims, as alſo of a pre-
fidial, bailiwic, Vidam, a chamber of accounts,
and a generality. They have fome linen and
woolen manufactures, which bring a good deal
of trade to the place; and they have likewife e-
rected focieties of men of wit and learning in this
and ſeveral other great towns of France, in imi-
tation of the cities of Italy.
The country from hence to Clermont is a fine Clermont a
open plain. Clermont is a ſmall town in the iſle
of France, and county of Beauvais in eaſt longi-
tude 2. 30. latitude 49. 24. It is fituated on a
hill near the river Brecle, fifteen miles from Beau-
vais, and as many from Senlis. It formerly gave
the title of count to the family of Bourbon,
the firſt of whom was Robert fourth fon of S.
Lewis, but was united to the crown of France
by Francis I. when the conſtable de Bourbon
went over to the emperor Charles V.
Chantilly is a village, remarkable for being the Chantilly.
feat of the princes of Condé. Here they have a
noble old caſtle, part of which was pulled down
by the great Conde's fon to build a larger and
more magnificent ftructure. The gardens are
laid out in a moft elegant tafte, extending fix
miles in length, and of a very confiderable breadth.
The great variety of canals and water-works,
the number of fowls, as partridges, pheafants,
flying about, the delightful walks, and little
groves with aviaries, all together render this one
of the most charming feats in France.
Lufarche.
From Chantilly you come to Lufarche, a ſmall
market-town in the ifle of France fix miles from
Senlis. From thence you proceed to Ecouen, Ecouen.
VOL. IV.
D
another
#
?
•
50
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
another market-town in the isle of France, where
there is an old caftle that well deferves a travel-
ler's curiofity. From Ecouen you come to
VI. S. DE NI S.
S. Denis. S. Denis is a fmall town of France fituated in
a fine plain, near the Seine, about fix miles to
the northward of Paris. It received its name
from a magnificent abbey of Benedictins founded
here by Dagobert I. in 636 on the tomb of S.
Denis the Areopagite, the apoftle of France;
though it is queftioned by feveral learned writers,
whether that S. Denis was ever in this kingdom.
Monuments The abbey is remarkable for the fepulchres of
of the French the French kings, princes, and princeffes of the
kings.
blood; the chief of which is that of Lewis XII.
one of the fineft pieces of architecture in Europe,
all of white marble, and adorned with the victo-
ries of this prince in baffo-relievo, the whole by
that famous architect Paolo Poncio of Florence.
Here is alſo a tomb erected to the memory of
the celebrated Marshal de Turenne by Lewis XIV.
It ſtands in a marble chapel, built on purpoſe,
where his effigy lies at full length, furrounded
The Abbey- with lawrels and trophies in relievo. The Abbey-
church.
church is 300 feet long, 200 wide, and 80
high; fupported by 60 pillars, and adorned with
copper gates. The beauty of the architecture,
though in the Gothic tale, and the delicacy
and lightneſs of its ſtructure, are much admired.
On the middle gate they have drawn our Saviour
in his glory, and on the other two there are
figures of kings and queens. The windows are
of a very thick glaſs finely painted, which dar-
kens the church. The organs are eſteemed
the best in France, and the rails of the choir and
gallery which were made by a monk of that houſe,
are reckoned an incomparable piece of workman-
hip.
through FRANCE.
55
}
ſhip. Over the door of thefe rails there is a large
crofs of maffy gold, fet with diamonds and rich
pearls, and faid to have been made by S. Eloi.
The great altar is in the antique tafte, with four
columns of copper, and a table adorned with five
baffo relievos, three of which are of gold; the
whole enriched with a prodigious number of
diamonds. Over the above-mentioned table
there is a large crofs fix feet high, enriched
with precious ftones. On the right of this great
altar, there is another of a leffer ſize, called the
communion altar; and oppofite to that ſtands al-
ways the funeral altar of their laſt king, which
at prefent is that of Lewis XIV.
The treaſure belonging to this church is in- The treaſure,
eſtimably rich, containing a great number of re-
lics, and an immenfe quantity of ancient medals
and jewels, all contained in fix preffes or cabinets.
The monks are very civil in fhewing the trea-
fure; explaining every thing moft diftinctly,
and pointing out the time and manner in which
all the valuable curiofities were brought to this
place. In the fourth prefs they preferve the Re- The regalia.
galia of France; thefe are Charlemain's golden
crown enriched with diamonds, which is wore
by the French kings the day of their coronation;
the ſcepter of Charlemain, as alfo his fword and
fpurs, all enriched with diamonds; the pontifical
for the king's coronation; and a book of the
epiftles and goſpels covered with gold and preci-
ous ftones. In the fixth prefs they preferve the
royal robes in which Lewis XV. was crowned
at Rheims, October the 24th 1722; likewife a fet
of ivory chefs-men belonging to Charlemain, eve-
ry one as big as a man's fift; a hunter's horn
belonging to Rowland nephew to Charlemain;
and the ſword of the maid of Orleans. On the
top of this prefs there is a great chair of gilt cop-
D 2
per,
52
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The abbey.
Road from
Paris.
per, which is faid to have been the throne of
king Dagobert.
The infide of this abbey is a large ancient ſtruc-
ture; but they have lately begun to erect a new
building, which when finiſhed will be one of the
fineft in Europe. It is divided into ſeveral halls
of a furprizing greatneſs and beauty, defigned to
receive the princes, parliament, and other fupe-
rior courts upon fuch ceremonies as the king
thinks proper to invite them. The top of this
majeſtic edifice is a fine dormitory for the monks,
where they have each a neat commodious cell.
The abbot had formerly very great privileges, which
are now much leffened; however, he is ftill a
counſellor of the parliament of Paris, and has
the privilege of keeping the Regalia, which he
fends to the place where the kings are confe-
crated, viz. the city of Rheims. There are fe-
veral other churches and pariſhes in the town, a
good hoſpital, and fome convents of nuns and
friars.
On the road from hence to Paris there are
S. Denis to fix colonades (the ſeventh is at S. Chaumont in the
ſtreet of S. Dennis at Paris) which were erected
in thoſe places where Philip the Bold, and his
brothers, the fons of S. Lewis, ftopped to reſt
themſelves in carrying the body of their deceaſed
father to the abbey of S. Dennis, which happened
May the 22d, 1271. Theſe are now fo many
ſtations of reft at the funerals of the French kings.
Paris,
VII. PAR I S.
Paris is the metropolis of the kingdom of
France, and of the principality or government of
the iſle of France, pleafantly fituated on the river
Seine, in eaft longitude 2. 25. latitude, 48. 50.
Its origin is very uncertain, no mention being
made
through FRANCE.
53
made of it in hiſtory before the time of Julius
Cafar, by whom it is called Lutetia, which fome Its name.
derive from the word lutum, becauſe of the
marshy ground in the neighbourhood. It was Antiquity.
then the capital of the people called Parifians,
confined within the ifle formed by the river
Seine, and furrounded with woods and marshes.
The Romans, having fubdued it under Julius Cæfar,
enlarged and improved its buildings, and were
the firſt that ſurrounded it with walls. Its agree-
able fituation foon made it increaſe under fucceed-
ing emperors, and at laſt rendered it the metro-
polis of the country under Clovis their firft Chri-
itian king, who removed the feat of government
hither from the city of Tours. After that prince's Increaſe.
reign it continually improved by means of the
feveral privileges with which it was endowed by
their kings, who made it the feat of councils,
fynods, meeting of the ftates, the fovereign courts,
univerfity, and academies. Philip Auguftus was
the first that walled in the feveral ſuburbs with
which the town was enlarged in proceſs of time; and
by the encouragement given by fucceeding princes,
efpecially Francis I. Henry II. and Henry IV. it be-
came at length one of the largeſt, moſt populous
and flourishing cities in the univerfe. Its fi- Situation.
tuation is moſt delightful, having a mountain on
the ſouth which abounds with wholeſome ſprings,
and the adjacent country is full of ftone quarries.
On the north there are pits from whence they
dig their plaifter; and on the banks of the Seine
and Marne, there are very pleaſant woods. The
plain on the north abounds with corn, and the
hills from Mount le Hery, as far as Poify pro-
duce excellent wine. The neighbouring country
is watered with innumerable ftreams which fall
into the Seine and the Marne, and facilitate the
tranſportation of commodities to this city.
D 3
Paris
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
54
Divifion of
Paris.
Circumfe-
rence.
Paris is generally divided into three parts, the
town, univerfity, and city. The town, which
is the largeſt, contains all that part which is to-
wards the north, and bounded by the Seine, the
gates of la Conference, of S. Honoré, Montmar-
tre, S. Denis, S. Martin, and S. Antony. The
city, which is much the leaſt but the moſt an-
cient, lies betwixt the town and the univerfity
upon three little iſlands in the middle of the Seine,
and joined to the other parts by bridges, extending
from the little Chatelet to Pont Notre Dame. The
univerfity, fo called from the colleges it includes for
promoting learning, lies on the fouth fide of the
river, on a rifing ground, and contains that part
which is bounded by the Seine, and the gates of
S. Bernard, S. Victor, S. Marcel, S. James,
S. Michael, and the fuburb of S. Germains.
There is another divifion of Paris, for the bet-
ter regulation of the civil government, into.
twenty quarters or wards, according to the fol-
lowing order. I. The quarter of the city.
Of the Louvre.
Montmartre. 5.
2.
3. Of Palais Royal. 4. Of
Of S. Eustache. 6. Of the
Halles. 7. Of S. Opportune. 8. Of S. James
of the Shambles. 9.
Of S. Denis. 10. Of S.
Martin. 11. Of S. Avoye, or the glaſs-makers.
12. Of the temple or the marshes.
13. Of the
Greve. 14. Of S. Antony. 15. Of S. Paul.
16. Of the fquare of Maubert. 17. Of S. Be-
net or S. James. 18. Of S. Andrew. 19. Of
Luxemburg. 20. Of S. Germain des prez; be-
fides the ifle Notre Dame, the ifle Louviers, and the
fuburbs. The whole town is of a circular form,
about eighteen miles in circumference, and fix
in diameter, containing, according to the French
calculation, nine hundred and fixty streets, twenty
two thouſand houſes, fifty-two pariſhes, an hun-
dred and thirty-four monafteries (fixty of which
are
through FRANCE.
55
are for friars, and feventy-eight for nuns) up-
wards of two hundred conventual and parochial
churches and chapels, more than fourteen thou-
fand coaches, and about nine hundred thouſand Inhabitants.
inhabitants, among which they reckon a hundred
and fifty thouſand domeftics, a ftrong argument
of the luxury of that nation. The streets are Streets.
generally ftraight and uniform, but fomewhat
narrow. The houfes look handfome without, Houfes.
being built with free-ftone; most of them have
fafh-windows, and are generally fix or feven
ftories high. The public and private buildings
of this great city would require a whole volume
to defcribe, we fhall therefore be content with
a fhort view of fuch as are most worthy of a
traveller's notice, beginning with the ecclefiaftical
ftructures.
Dame.
The cathedral of Notre Dame is fituated on The church
a little iſland of the Seine, to which it communi- of Notre
cates its name. It is a majeſtic old Gothic ftruc-
ture, founded in 556 by king Childebert, and de-
dicated to the bleffed Virgin; but rebuilt under
Robert the Devout, fon of Hugh Capet, towards
the year 10co. It is built in the form of a
crofs, fixty-five toifes or fathoms long, four and
twenty broad, and feventeen toifes high. The
roof is fupported by an hundred and twenty large
pillars; and the front admired for its fculpture, on
which are the ftatues of eight and twenty of their
kings. In the middle there is a finall fpire, and at
the weſt end are two large fquare towers, three
hundred and eighty-nine fteps high, flat at top,
with baluſters round them, which makes the front
look fpacious and noble. From theſe towers you
have a fine profpect of the city of Paris. But
the greatest curiofity in this church is the high
altar begun by Lewis XIII. and finifhed by
Lewis XIV. of the fineſt Egyptian marble. At
D 4
the
56
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The Jefuits
church,
S. Genevieve
the upper end of the choir where the altar ftands,
there is an image of the Virgin in a fitting pof-
ture, at the foot of the crofs with a dead Chrift
upon her knees. On the right hand is the fi-
gure of Lewis XIII. upon his knees, clad in his
royal robes, offering his crown and ſcepter to the
Virgin; and on the other Lewis XIV. in the
fame pofture. Six angels gilt as large as the life,
carrying the feveral inftruments of our Saviour's
paffion, are placed three on each fide. The prin-
cipal altar ftands a little further in the middle of
the fanctuary; and at each end without the rails,
there is an angel of a large fize in the poſture of
adoration. The whole choir is beautified in an
extraordinary manner with fine paintings, and
rich tapestry, fo that it is ſcarce inferior in the
richness of the materials, and the carving or
workmanship, to any in Italy.
The Jefuits church in the quarter of S. Anthony
is a modern flructure, founded by Cardinal Rich-
lieu, and vaftly efteemed for the beauty of its
architecture, and the richneſs of the decorations.
They have likewife another church and college
in the quarter of S. Bennet, which they call the
college of Lewis the Great, famous for its excel-
lent library, containing upwards of fifty thou-
fand volumes; and another called the Noviciate,
in the quarter of Luxemburg, of excellent archi-
tecture.
The church of S. Genevieve, belongs to the
regular canons of S. Auftin; it is faid to have been
founded by king Clovis, who has an old tomb
here, that has been lately embellifhed. Here the
famous Des Cartes is likewife buried, with French
and Latin infcriptions on his tomb. Thefe monks
have a good apothecary's fhop, and a hand-
fome library, with a curious collection of coins,
medals, antiquities, and other rarities.
The
through FRANCE.
57
The church and abbey of S. Germain, are very
ancient; here the French kings uſed to be for-
merly interred, and here many of their tombs are
ftill to be ſeen; among the reft that of king Chil
peric. The library of this monaftery was once
reckoned the beſt in Paris, and ftill exceeds
them all for manufcripts, except the king's li-
brary.
S. Germain,
The abby of S. Victor, is one of the oldeft S. Vi&or.]
foundations in Paris, and has a good library,
which is open to ftrangers, three times a week.
The church and nunnery of Val de Grace, Valde Gram
were founded by Queen Anne, mother to Lewis
XIV, on the unexpected birth of that prince,
after ſhe had been married 22 years. The altar
and cupola are exceeding fine, and the infcription
over the portal is Jefu nafcenti virginique matri.
The nuns are all of noble extraction. There are
a great many other churches, convents, and chapels,
which we have not room to defcribe: the moſt
deſerving of a traveller's notice are the church
and feminary of S. Sulpice; the church and con-
vent of the barefooted Carmelites; the convent of
the Cordeliers; the church of S. Roch; the con-
vent of the barefooted Austin friars; the church
and the convent of the Capuchin nuns in the
quarter of Montmartre; the convent of the Car-
thufians, famous for its excellent paintings; and
the church of the invalids, of which we ſhall take
notice in the defcription of that hoſpital.
It was
Next to the facred ftructures come the royal The Louvrei
palaces, the chief of which is the Louvre, fituated
in that quarter of the town which goes by its
name, on the banks of the river Seine.
begun by Francis I. in 1528, but the greateſt
part of it was built by Lewis XIV, under the
direction of Cavalier Bernini; and had it been
finiſhed according to the first defign, it would
D 5
certainly
58
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The Tuil
lerics
certainly furpaſs all the ftructures in the world.
There are only two fides of it completed; and
as there have been feveral hotels built within the
compaſs of that ftructure, it is fuppofed it will
never be finiſhed. On the porches there are fe-
veral lofty infcriptions, in commendation of the
ftructure, and flattering thelate king. The fronts are
beautifully adorned with pillars and carved work;
the inner front is of the Corinthian order, with a
noble cornifh and handfome carvings. The gallery
built by Henry IV. along the river to the Tuil-
leries, is very long, and reckoned the fineſt in Eu-
rope. Under it is the king's printing-houſe, and
the apartments of his painters, carvers, gravers,
and other ingenious artifts. The weft part has a
large pavilion, in form of a dome, over the
gate, fupported by two ranks of large pillars of
the Ionic order, and the architrave of the front
to the court is adorned with fine fculptures. The
eaſt front, erected by Lewis XIV. contains the
chief gate, and a terrafs, fupported by forty
columns of the Corinthian order. There were
formerly a great many antiquities, Roman ftatues,
and fine paintings preferved in this palace, but
they have been most of them fince removed to
Verſailles. Near the Louvre in the Hotel du petit
Bourbon, is the Garde Meuble, or the magazine
for the king's furniture, remarkable among other
things for ſeveral fuits of excellent hangings, fome
done from the defigns of Julio Romano, fome
from thofe of Raphael, fome from Lucas, fome
from Albert Durer, and fome, in fine, from le
Brun.
The Tuilleries is another fine palace, which
fome will have to be part of the Louvre, becauſe
it is joined to it by a long gallery, which fronts
the river Seine, and ftands within the compafs
firft laid out for the Louvre. The front of the
Tuilleries
through FRANCE.
59
Tuilleries is a hundred and fixty-eight toifes and
a half in length, and has four great fquare pa-
vilions, with pillars of the compofite order, and
a fifth pavilion with a dome covered in the middle,
under which is the great hall and ftair-cafe, which
leads to the apartments. It was begun by Ca-
tharine de Medicis, and finifhed by Lewis XIV.
having on one fide three fine courts, and on the
other moſt beautiful gardens, which, if completed
according to the original defign of Andrew le
Notre, would fall very little fhort, 'tis faid, of
thofe of Versailles. Here it is that the quality and
citizens of Paris walk in fine evenings, as they
do in the mall at London. The terraſs which
runs parallel to the river, is reckoned one of the
greateſt ornaments of thefe gardens, being two.
hundred and eighty-fix toifes long and fourteen
broad, and planted with trees, from whence there
is a beautiful profpect of the town, the river, and
the adjacent country. Near the bafon there are
four groups; the first just by the Manage is by
Theodon, and reprefents the death of Lucretia;
the ſecond oppofite to it is Eneas carrying his
father Anchises, by Le Pautre; the other two on
each fide of the fame bafon, reprefent, one the
rape of Orithya by Boreas, the work of Fla-
man; and the other Time preying on Beauty, by
Renaudin.
;
The palace of Orleans, generally called the The palace
palace of Luxemburg, from its having been erected of Luxemburg
on the ruins of the Hotel de Luxemburg, is fi-
tuated on an eminence in that part of the town-
called the Univerfity. It was built under the
direction of Jacques de Broffe, a French architect,
by Mary of Medicis, the dowager of Henry IV,
who laid the foundation of it, about the year
1615, and having finifhed it in fix years, left it by
her laft will to her fecond fon John Gaston duke
D 6
of
1
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
60
!
The Palace
Royal.
of Orleans. This palace is reckoned one of the
largeſt and fineft in all France; it confifts of one
large court, at the end of which is the principal
building, having five pavilions or advanced works,
two at each end, and one in the middle. In the
laſt of theſe is the ftair-cafe and paffage to the gar-
den, and before it is a terraſs the whole breadth
of the court, paved with marble. The outward
building, by which you enter the court, confifts
of an open gallery or terrafs, with a pavilion in
the middle covered by a dome, adorned with pil-
lars and ſtatues. At the end of each gallery on
the right and left there is a large ſquare pavilion,
which jets out beyond the reft of the front. The
court is terminated on the right and left with gal-
leries and piazza's, and both fronts of the princi-
pal building are adorned with double pilafters.
The orders chiefly obſerved are, the Tuſcan and
the Doric, with the Attic above them; and they
have alſo added the Ionic to the pavilions, which
renders them more lofty than the reft. But there
is nothing more admired in this palace, than the
great gallery on the right, containing the hiſtory
of Mary of Medicis, in twenty large pieces,
each ten feet high, and painted by the famous
Rubens. The gardens are very pleafant, and
much frequented by the inhabitants of Paris,
who efteem the air of this place becaufe of its high
fituation.
Not far from the Louvre ftands another famous
building called the Palace Royal, built by Cardi-
nal Richlieu, and bequeathed by that minifter to
Lewis XIII.whofe fon Lewis XIV. fettled it upon
the duke of Orleans, in confideration for the duke's
marrying his natural daughter. It confifts of feveral
large piles of buildings, feparated from one ano-
ther by ſpacious courts, the two largeſt of which
are in the middle. The outſide makes no great
appearance,
through FRANCE.
61
:
appearance, though the apartments within are
very noble.
The Cardinal is faid to have made
it fo plain on purpoſe, left it fhould create
him the envy of the nobility. The paintings
are much admired, and particularly a gallery
where moft of the illuftrious perfonages that
France has produced, are drawn by eminent
hands. The gardens belonging to this palace
are ſmall, but extremely well defigned, and free
for the inhabitants to walk in.
Next to the Royal Palaces come the noble- The Hotels of
men's houſes or palaces, called Hotels, which Paris.
are very magnificent buildings, with large courts
and gardens. The principal of theſe are, 1. The
Hotel Colbert, in the rue neuve des petits champs, a
noble fabric with an exquifite library. 2. That
of Mazarin in the fame ftreet, a fplendid ftruc-
ture without, and curioufly furniſhed with an-
cient and modern ftatues and paintings, by the
beſt hands; it is now affigned for the af-
femblies of the East-India Company. 3. That of
Louvois, in the rue de Richlieu, famous for its
ftair-cafe and the audience-chamber. 4. The
Hotel'de Nevers in the fame ftreet where the
king's library is kept. 5. The Hotel de Lionne
in the rue neuve des petits champs, belonging to
the count of Pontchartrain, famous for its paint-
ings. 6. The Hotel de Sully in the rue S. An-
toine, one of the largeſt and fineſt in Paris. 7.
That of Richlieu in the rue de l'Univerfité, ex-
tremely well built, and adorned with fome excel-
lent pictures, done by Rubens. 8. That of the
Grand Prior of France in the rue de Temple, an
excellent new building; behind which is the
Temple, an old ftructure that formerly be-
longed to the knights Templars, but now to the
knights of Malta. The other moft remarkable
Hotels are thofe of S. Aignan, Amelot, Angouleme,
Antin,
62
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The Town-
houſe.
The Baftile.
Antin, Armagnac, d'Aumont, d'Auvergne, de Ba-
viere, de Bellifle, de Beauvais, de Bouillon, de
Bouflers, de Breteuil, de Brifac, de Broglio, de
Chatillon, de Charoft, de Chevreufe, de Condé, de
Conty, de Craon, de Crequi, Dagueffeau, Def
marets, d'Elbeuf, d'Eftrées, d'Estampes, d' Evreux,
de Force, des Gefures, de Gramont, de Guife, de
Harlay, de l'Hopital, d'Humieres, de Leon, de
Lefdigueres, de Liancourt, de Longueville, de
Lorges, de Lorraine, de Luines, de Mailly, de
Maifons, de Matignon, de Marillac, de Montau-
fier, de la Moignon, de Mortemar, de Neuchatel,
de Noailles, de Phelypeaux, de Puifieux, de Pom-
padour, de Rohan, de la Roche-Guyon, de Roque-
laure, de Sens, de Soiffons, de Tellier, de Torcy,
de Touloufe, de la Timouille, du Duc de Tremes,
de Vantadour, de Vendome, de Vertamont, de Vil-
lars, de Villeroy, de Vitry, and des Urfins ; be-
fides the beautiful houfes of the prefident Lam-
bert, and the prefident Bretonvilliers, both in the
ifle Notre Dame; and the elegant houfe called Ti-
tonville, in the quarter of S. Antony.
The town-houfe or guild-hall of Paris, fands.
upon the fquare called the Greve, by the river fide,
and makes but a very indifferent appearance. It
was founded by Francis I, and finifhed by Henry
IV; but no way anfwers the greatnefs of the
city. It has a handfome front of ftone, but in
the Gothic tafte, with a fpire over the gate, two
pavilions at the ends, a fpacious hall, and fome
commodious apartments. In the fquare before
this building people affemble on feftivals and
rejoicing days, and here likewife criminals are
executed.
The Baſtile is fomewhat like the Tower of Lon-
don, furrounded with a plain wall and eight an-
tique turrets, and encompaffed with a ditch. It
was built under the reign of Charles V, in 1370,
for
through FRANCE.
63
1
for the defence of the town against the excurfions
of the English, but now made uſe of as a prifon
for ftate criminals. Within fide there is a large
meadow, for thoſe that have the liberty of taking
the air. Near the Baftile ftands the Arfenal, a The Arſenal's
fpacious pile, confifting of three great courts, with
a garden, and the portal inſtead of pillars is fup-
ported by cannon. Here there are a great many
artificers employed by the king in cafting of ftatues
and other works of metal.
The hofpitals of Paris are about thirty in num Hofpitals,
ber, fome founded for poor old infirm or blind
perfons, fome for foundlings, others for orphans,
mad people, vagrants, and incurables. Of thefe
the four principal are the Hofpital-general, the
Hotel-Dieu or the House of God, the Hofpital of
Charity, and the Royal Hofpital for the invalids.
The Hofpital-General is a vaft pile of building, The Hoſpital
finiſhed by Cardinal Mazarin in 1657, contain- General
ing fix diftinct houfes, one of which is for poor
old women and girls: another for poor families
and foundling children; the others for poor lying-
in women, beggars, vagrants, &c. the whole
number amounting to about 10000 people, who
are made to work when they are well, and taken
care of in their infirmity.
じっ
​The Hotel-Dieu is the moft ancient hofpital in The Hotel-
Paris; it is a very large building, fituated in the Dieu.
quarter of the city, but neither handfome nor
convenient, the houfes being too clofe about it
for the numerous patients with which it is fome-
times crowded, the ordinary number amounting
to upwards of 4000, who generally lye two in a
bed. 'Tis the chief hofpital for the fick in Paris,
and entertains all people that are brought thither,
whether natives or foreigners. The fick are at-
tended by the nuns of S. Austin, with great care
and tenderneſs. In the Hofpital of Charity, the
friars
:
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
64
i
The Invalids
friars of S. John perform the fame offices as the
nuns do in the former.
The Royal Hoſpital of Invalids, in the quarter
of S. Germain, for wounded, infirm, and aged
foldiers, is much the moft magnificent of any in
Paris. Lewis XIV. founded it in 1670, and
finiſhed it in 1678, under the direction of Liberal
Bruand a famous French architect, who imi-
tated in this building the pope's palace of Monte-
Cavallo at Rome. It is compofed of five handfome
quadrangles built of hewn-ftone, the largeſt of
which is in the middle of the reft. The fquares
are furrounded with piazzas and galleries above
them, which make a moſt noble appearance. In
the refectories where the foldiers eat, moſt of
the famous battles and fieges that were fought in
Lewis XIV's time, are painted on the walls.
The apothecary's fhop is beautifully contrived,
and well furniſhed; and the fick are attended by
the fifters of S. Lazarus. There are uſually enter-
tained in this hofpital two hundred officers, and
three thouſand common foldiers. The officers
lie two in a chamber, and the private men fix or
feven in a room; every one has a bed to him-
felf, and may follow what bufinefs he likes.
They eat in common, but each man has his por-
tion of meat ferved up to him; they are permit-
ted to go abroad and negotiate their affairs twice
The church a week. There are two churches belonging to
of the In- this hofpital, the one internal, for the uſe of thoſe
valids.
of the hofpital, and the other external for ſtrangers.
The external is called the new church, and is
justly allowed to be one of the fineſt buildings in
France. It was defigned by the famous Manfard,
director of the king's buildings. The front is
thirty toifes broad and fifty high, from the floor
to the dome; compofed of the Doric and Co-
rinthian order, and the Attic on the top; the
2
whole
through FRANCE.
65
whole adorned with columns, pilafters, and fta-
tues by the moſt eminent maſters. The dome
has nothing to compare to it in all France for its
elevation (which is 300 feet from the ground to
the cross) the folidity of its conftruction, or
the beauty of its ornaments in fculpture and paint-
ing. The architecture of the whole church is
really excellent, being adorned with columns and
pilafters of the Corinthian order, diftributed with
ſo much taſte, that nothing can equal its rich
fimplicity. The plan has the form of a Greek
croſs; the fanctuary is at the upper end, two
great chapels are at the extremities of the croſs,
and at the bottom is the entrance of the church.
In fine, fuch is the magnificence of this building,
that it would require a large work to convey a
proper idea of it, and in fact it has been defcribed
in two entire volumes by J. F. Felibien a French
writer.
↓
Grand,
Some reckon near fourfcore places or fquares in Public
Paris, the principal of which are, la Place de fquares.
Louis le Grand, la Place de victoires, la Place
Royale, the Greve, la Place Dauphine, and la
Place Maubert. The fquare by fome called la La Place de
Place de Louis le Grand, and by others Place Ven- Louis le
dome, is a large octagon open towards the ſtreet
of S. Honoré, capable of containing ten thouſand
men, and furrounded with a noble pile of uni-
form buildings, inhabited by men of the firſt
quality, or by rich farmers of the revenue. Its
greateſt ornament is the fine equeftrian ſtatue of
Lewis XIV. in the middle of the fquare. This
ftatue is twenty feet high, made of braſs, faid to
be run at one caft; it ſtands on a marble pedeſtal
filled with inſcriptions, containing the great acti-
ons of this prince's reign. The Place des Vic-
toires is of no great extent, but of an oval fi-
gure, and encompaffed with uniform magnificent
buildings.
Place Victoire
66
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
buildings. In the middle of it ftands an excel-
lent ftatue of the late king of brafs gilt, and
thirteen feet high, dreffed in his robes, with a
Victory behind him, of the fame bulk and metal,
putting a crown on his head. poiſed with his
foot on a globe, and under his feet a three headed
Cerberus, to reprefent Lewis XIV, trampling
over the triple league.
The whole was caft at
once, and weighs thirty thousand pounds and up-
wards, exceeding, according to the opinion of the
French, any thing that was ever done of this
kind either by the Greeks or Romans. Under the
ftatue there is this infcription, Viro Immortali,
to the immortal man. The pedeftal is of white
marble twenty feet high, having at the corners
the figures of four flaves in brafs, much larger than
the life; it is likewife adorned with low-relieves
and infcriptions, fhewing the memorable events
of his reign.
This proud monument was erected
by the duke de la Feuillade, to his mafter's glory,
Place Royale, in the year 1686. The Place Royale is a mag-
nificent fquare, as large almoſt as Lincoln's-inn-
Fields; it has a piazza on every fide, with mag-
nificent and uniform buildings, and the platform
is incloſed with iron rails. In the middle of it
ſtands an equeſtrian ſtatue of Lewis XIII, erected
by Cardinal Richlicu, with feveral infcriptions, ex-
preffing the moſt remarkable events of that prince's
The Greve. reign. The Place de Greve is where the town-
houfe ftands, and has been already defcribed. Place
Maubert ferves for holding one of the greatest
markets in Paris, on Wednesdays and Fridays,
and lies near the keys de Tournelle and S. Bernard.
The gates of
Paris.
Place Mau-
bert.
They reckon twenty gates at Paris, but the
principal ones are thofe of S. Antony, S. Bernard,
S. Denis, and S. Martin, which are all ftately
pieces of architecture, with baffo-relievo's, tro-
phies and infcriptions, defigned as fo many trium-
phal
through FRANCE.
67
།
:
phal arches to eternize the memory of that vain
prince Lewis XIV. The gates of S. Antony, and
S. Bernard are after the model of a triumphal
arch; that of S. Bernard is adorned with baffo-
relievo's on one fide, reprefenting the king dif-
tributing the wealth brought into this city by na-
vigation. On the other fide there is a God fteer-
ing a fhip under full fail. The gate of S. Denis
was defigned by Blondel; it is feventy-two feet
broad and of the fame height, built after the mo-
del of an ancient triumphal arch. There are two
little portals on the fide of the great one, the
largeft is twenty four feet high, adorned with
bafo relievo's, reprefenting the French armies
paffing the Rhine, the Waal, &c. The gate of
S. Martin was built in the year 1674, after the
fame model as that of S. Denis, with three over-
tures, one great one, fifty feet high, and as many
broad in the middle, with a little portal on each
fide. There are feveral elegant infcriptions on
theſe gates, fetting forth the exploits of the
Grand Monarque; but we ſhould exceed our in-
tended brevity, were we to tranſcribe them.
Chatelet,
The great and little Chatelet were the gates of The great
Paris, when the city was confined to the land and little
of the Palace, furrounded by the branches of the
Seine. The great Chatelet was, according to tra-
dition, built by Julius Cæfar, of which there
are only fome antique towers remaining, all the
reft having been built fince the year 1684. Here
the courts of juftice are held for the provoftſhip
and viſcounty of Paris, and it ferves likewife for
a prifon for criminals. The little Chatelet is alſo
an ancient fortrefs, and a prifon for criminals, in
the fame manner as the great Chatelet.
Paris has a great many bridges over the ſeveral Bridges,
branches of the river Seine, of which the three
principal are Pont Royal, Pont Notre Dame, and
Pant
68
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
1.
Pont Notre
Dame.
,
a-
Pont Royal, Pont Neuf. Pont Royal is a plain ftone bridge of
five arches, built a-crofs the united ſtream of the
Seine, over-against the Tuilleries in 1685, under
the direction of Julius Harduin Manfard, inftead
of a wooden bridge which was broke down by
the floods. This bridge is feventy two fathoms
long, and eight fathoms four feet broad. Lewis
XIV, to perpetuate his name, lodged in the
ftone-work a great many cedar boxes
dorned with the arms of France, wherein he
encloſed twelve copper medals, twelve of gold,
and twelve of filver. Pont Notre Dame, or our
Lady's bridge, fo called from its being over that
part of the Seine which runs between the iſland
of Notre Dame and the fouth part of the town,
is alſo of ſtone, and has houfes on each fide
like London-Bridge, but is not near fo long. It
was built by Lewis XII, about the year 1507, in
the room of a wooden bridge, which was carried
away by the ftream. Pont Neuf, or the new
bridge, is a curious piece of architecture, begun
by Henry III, in 1578, under the direction of
James Androuet du Cerceau, and finifhed by Henry
IV, in 1604, under the direction of William
Marchand. It lies over both branches of the
Seine, and the weft end of the Iſland of the Palace,
is a hundred and feventy fathoms long and twelve
broad, has twelve arches, and is juftly eſteemed
one of the fineſt bridges in Europe. On each
fide there is a foot path for people to walk upon,
with a double row of fmall fhops, the property
of which is affigned to the king's footmen. The
profpect of the town from this bridge is very
pleafant; and on each fide there is a guard of
foldiers to prevent any diforders. In the middle
ftands an equeftrian ftatue of Henry IV, much
larger than the life, fet upon a pedeſtal of white
marble, on each angle of which lie four flaves
Pont Neuf.
of
through FRANCE.
бя
of maffy brass, with infcriptions and baſſo relievo's
expreffing the most memorable tranſactions of his
reign.
The univerfity of Paris gives name to that The Univer-
part of the town which is fituated on the fouth fity.
fide of the river Seine. It was founded about the
Its antiquity
latter end of the eleventh century, and their firſt and colleges.
ſtatutes were inſtituted in 1215, by Robert Cor-
ceon, legate of the holy fee, in which there is no
mention made of any other faculties, but arts,
philoſophy, and divinity. Innocent III. introduced
the canon law about the year 1216; and a Bull
of pope Gregory in 1231, fhews that there were
phyficians at that time members of this univer-
fity. They read no civil law till the laſt century,
when lectures were inftituted for the civil law
and the common law of the nation; their ſchools
being firſt founded only for the liberal arts. The
univerfity confifted formerly of an hundred col-
leges, but there are only fifty-four houſes at pre-
fent that bear that name, and of thefe no more
than eleven where publick exerciſes are performed,
viz. the college of Sorbonne, Du Pleffis, Har-
court, Beauvais, le Moine, de la Marche, de Li-
fieux, de Montagu, de Graffins, and Mazarin, or
the four nations. The Sorbonne and the college
de Navarre, are appropriated chiefly to divinity;
the ſchools for law are in the street de Beauvais ;
and the phyficians have a fine anatomical theatre
in the ftreet de Boucherie, with a hall where
they read lectures.
The college
The Sorbonne is eſteemed one of the fineſt col-
leges. in Europe, and of fuch reputation, that of Sorbonnes
the whole univerfity is fometimes denominated the
Sorbonne. It received its name from Robert de
Sorbon a canon of the church of Paris, who found-
ed it in 1252; and was but a mean ftructure,
till Cardinal Richlieu rebuilt it in a moft magnifi-
cent
yo
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The Rector.
cent manner. The church is an elegant ſtructure,
with a dome and four towers; and on the fide of
the court next the houſe, you aſcend a handſome
portico by fixteen fteps. The infide of the church
is adorned with pilafters of the Corinthian order,
between which are niches filled with ftatues of
angels and apoſtles. The dome is beautifully
painted; and the high altar adorned with fix marble
pillars of the Corinthian order, their bafes and
chapiters brafs gilt; it has a fine crucifix of
white marble, eſteemed an excellent piece of work-
manſhip. The Cardinal's tomb is in the middle
of the choir, where he is reprefented almoſt in a
reclining posture, fupported by Religion, with the
afflicted Sciences weeping at his feet. The library
is a handſome ſtructure, extremely well furniſhed
with manuſcripts as well as printed books, adorned
with the Cardinal's picture at one end of the
room, and his buft in brafs at the other. Among
other curiofities, they have two large manufcript
volumes of a French tranflation of Livy, made in
the reign of king Charles V, embellifhed with
paintings in miniature in vellum; an art that has
been loft above 200 years ago. This college con-
tains apartments for thirty-fix doctors. After the
ftudents have attended public lectures three years,
they are qualified for the degree of batchelors,
and wear lambskins and tippets two years; after-
wards they are made licentiates, and theſe are ge-
nerally opponents to fuch as take the doctors de-
gree, who muſt anſwer all objections from fun-
rife to fun-fet.
The head of the univerſity, who is called Rec-
tor, is always elected from the faculty of arts. He
has the precedence in the univerfity of all per-
ſons who are not princes of the blood. His ha-
bit of ceremony is a violet-coloured gown with
a mantle of ermins, and he is elected every
three
through FRANCE.
71
three months. Before a perfon is admitted a gra-
duate in the univerfity, he muſt ſtudy five years,
viz. two in philofophy, and three in divinity,
law, or phyfic. The univerfity had formerly ci-
vil juriſdiction, but they have loft moſt of their
privileges; and other independent colleges, aca-
demies, and focieties have been erected of late
years by royal encouragement. Their reve-
nues arofe from a grant of the letter-office,
but were reſumed by the government, and only a
penfion of forty thoufand livres allowed to the
eleven colleges where exercifes were held. But
the duke of Orleans by letters patent in 1619,
raiſed it to 120,000 livres and upwards, which
may amount to eleven thouſand pounds Sterling
per annum.
The colleges that have no dependance on the Independent
univerfity are the Jefuits college, and the college Colleges.
royal. We have already taken notice of the Je The Jefuits
fuits college, p. 56, and have only to add here, College.
that of all the colleges in Paris this is the moſt
frequented, having a prodigious number of boar-
ders of the firſt diftinction. The fcholars act a
tragedy here once a year, in the month of Au-
gust, attended with mufic and dances, and then
it is that their maſters make the diftribution of
prizes. The college royal was founded by The College
Francis I, about the year 1531; and the profeſ- Royal.
forſhips were encreafed by Charles IX, Lewis
XIII, and Lewis XIV. The preſent building
was erected by Mary of Medicis ; and Lewis XIII,
her fon, laid the firſt ſtone. The profeffors are
nineteen in number, viz. two for the Hebrew
tongue, two for the Greek, two for the mathe-
matics, two for the canon law, two for Latin
eloquence, two for Greek and Latin philofophy;
four for phyfic, chirurgery, pharmacy, and bo-
4
tany,
72
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Academies.
3
tany, two for Arabic, and one for the Syri
tongue.
The academies independent of the univer-
fity, are five, viz. The French academy,
the academy of infcriptions and belles lettres,
the royal academy of fciences, the academy of
painting and ſculpture, and the academy of archi-
The French tecture. The French academy was at firſt only
Academy.
a fociety of ingenious men, who met once a week
at their reſpective lodgings for converſation; but
being encouraged by Cardinal Richlieu, they at-
tempted the improving and poliſhing the French
language, which is the end of their prefent meet-
ings. This academy was eſtabliſhed by a royal
edict of Lewis XIII, in 1635, and confifts of
forty members; the king is their protector, and
Academy of their device Immortality. The academy of in-
Infcriptions. fcriptions and belles lettres was eſtabliſhed in 1663,
The Acade-
ences.
by the famous John Baptift Colbert; it was firft
defigned only for compofing the infcriptions of
medals for the hiſtory of Lewis XIV, but in
1716, its province was extended to whatever re-
gards the cultivating of polite literature. Their
number is likewife limited to forty, like that of
the members of the French academy. The royal
my of Sci- academy of fciences was alfo eſtabliſhed by the
above-mentioned Monfieur Colbert in 1666, and
is compoſed of fixty members, whoſe inſtitution
is pretty much of the fame kind as that of
the royal fociety in London, viz. to promote
Academy of philofophy and the mathematics. The academy
Painting and of painting and fculpture, was originally formed
Sculpture.
in 1643, by Cardinal Mazarin, but not eſtabliſhed
in its preſent ftate till 1664, by the chancellor
Seguier, and Monfieur Colbert. In 1675, it was
united with the French academy eſtabliſhed for
the fame purpoſe at Rome. The academy of
Academy of architecture was eſtabliſhed in 1671, by the faid
Architecture
Colberts
through FRANCE.
73
Colbert, miniſter and fecretary of ſtate. It is
compofed of the moſt eminent architects, and
fome engineers, who by letters patent in 1717,
were divided into two claffes. The moſt famous
edifices in Paris have been built under the direc-
tion of this fociety. All thefe academies hold their
affemblies in the Louvre, where they have their
ſeveral apartments affigned them by the king's
order. There is likewife another fociety called The Gobelins
the Gobelins, erected by royal authority in the
fuburbs of S. Marcel, for exercifing and improv-
ing the mechanic arts, as the manufacture of ta-
peſtry, Mofaic work, wrought plate, hard ware,
or works of iron, fteel, copper or brafs, embroi-
dery, fcarlet-dying, &c. where abundance of
workmen are conftantly employed in the king's
ſervice. There are alfo two academies for gen The Manage
tlemen to learn to ride, one the royal academy
oppofite the church of S. Roch, in the quarter
du Palais Royal; and the other in the Rue des
Canettes, and quarter of Luxemburg.
·
The phyfic garden in the fuburb of S. Marcel, The Phyfic-
is excellently well fupplied with all kinds of garden.
plants, and maintained at the king's expence, un-
der the direction of one of his phyficians.
It is fomewhat longer, but not broader than that
of Oxford, and has a good anatomy-fchool,
well provided with fkeletons, where botanic lec-
tures are held during the beſt ſeaſon for plants.
In the king's laboratory every body is admitted The Labora-
to fee the operations; and the medicines they tory.
make are given away to the poor.
The obfervatory for the ufe of the academy The Obfer-
of fciences, in their aftronomical obfervations, vatory.
was built by Lewis XIV, in 1667, under the di-
rection of Monf. Perrault, the king's firft archi-
tect. It is a vaulted fabric without either wood
or iron-work, three ftories high; you defcend
VOL. IV.
E
from
1
74
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Public libra-
ries.
from it into a cave with little alleys by two hundred
fteps, from whence you may fee quite through
the top of the houſe to the ſky, the ufe of which
is to make moſt of their aſtronomical obſervations
without the affiftance of mathematical inftru-
ments. The ftair-cafe leading to the halls is very
much eſteemed; the halls are large and beautiful,
containing a vaft number of models of machines
and curious pieces, invented by learned mathe-
maticians. One of theſe is called the hall of fe-
crets, where a perfon ſpeaking cloſe to a wall, is
heard by another at the oppofite wall, without
being heard by thofe who are in the middle.
The principal libraries in Paris are, 1. The
royal library, in the Hotel de Nevers, and ſtreet
de Richlieu, containing, according to the French
account, twelve thouſand volumes of valuable
manufcripts in the Oriental, Greek, Latin, French,
and other living and dead languages, and about
feventy thousand printed volumes. In the year
1720, it was ordered by the council of ftate, that
the books, medals, and rarities, which were in
the king's cabinet at the caſtle of Versailles,
fhould be conveyed to Paris to be kept there in
the king's library; that no book or medal ſhould
be lent out on any pretence, except by the king's
exprefs order; but that all perfons, as well
foreigners, as others, fhould be admitted to peruſe
the books, &c. and accommodated with conve-
niences for their ftudies. 2. The library of S.
Victor, famous for its manufcripts, and a great
number of excellent books, is open to the pub-
lic three days a week. 3. The library of Car-
dinal Mazarin has alſo been public ever fince the
year 1688. 4. The library of M. Ripponfonds,
advocate of the parliament of Paris, was left to
the order of advocates, on condition of being
public. 5. The library of the fathers of the
Chriftian
through FRANCE.
75
Chriftian doctrine, has been public fince the
year 1718. There are ſeveral other excellent li-
braries, which are open only to the refpective fo-
cieties to whom they belong, as that of S. Gene-
vieve, the Jefuits, the Sorbonne, &c. and many
others too tedious to enumerate.
Paris.
the Louvre.
The great encouragement given by Lewis XIV. Paintings at
to the polite arts, has been a means of enriching
this city with excellent paintings, the principal of
which are as follows. In the Louvre, you begin Paintings in
with the queen's new apartment, where the ceil-
ing of the hall is painted in frefco, by Francefco
Romanelli. The nine landſkips on the wall are
by Bourdon. The antichamber, and the queen's
chamber, are painted in fresco by the fame Ro-
manelli, and the figures in ftucco in the latter ap-
partment are by Girardon. In the queen's ca-
binet, the hiftory of Moyfes is drawn by Ro-
manelli, in feven beautiful pictures. In the king's
antichamber, where the academy of fciences
affembles, there is a picture of Minerva holding
the portrait of Lewis XIV, by Antony Coppel.
In the king's great cabinet, the picture in the
middle of the ceiling is by the famous Pouffin.
In the gallery of Apollo, over the window towards
the water, there is a picture of the triumph of
Neptune and Thetis, one of Le Brun's beſt pieces.
In this fame gallery there are feveral excellent
pieces of fculpture by eminent hands, viz. by
Gafpar and Baltazar de Marfy, Francis Girardon,
and Thomas Renaudin. In the cabinet of paint-
ings, there are 150 of the finest pictures in the
French king's poffeffion, drawn by the moſt ce-
lebrated maſters of Italy, France, and Flanders.
Among the reft, the four pictures of Cupids, by
Albano: The woman in adultery, Rebecca, the
triumph of Venus, the rape of the Sabines, Ananias
and Saphira, by Pouffin: David playing on the
£ 2
harp,
76
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
harp, and ſeveral others, by Guido: The entrance
into Jerufalem, the carrying of the croſs, and the
two nativities, by Le Brun: The marriage of
Cana, an excellent piece, by Paolo Veronefe:
The profpects of Fontainebleau, Vincennes, and
others, by Vandermeulen; with a great number of
landskips and other excellent pieces. In the
great gallery which joins the Louvre to the Tuil-
leries, you may fee the plans or models of all the
fortreffes of Europe, done by the moſt able ma-
fters; and the four famous pictures of the battles
of Alexander, by le Brun, viz. the battle of Ar-
bella, the paffage of the Granicus, the battle of
Porus, and the triumph of Alexander.
Paintings in In the palace of the Tuilleries, mounting the
the Tuilleries great ftair-cafe on the right fide of the porch, you
come to the king's chapel, where there are fome
very good pictures. The altar-piece is a famous
picture of the nativity. The first picture on the
right towards the altar is the coronation of the
Virgin, by Lanfranco. The first on the left is
S. Francis, by Guido. The fecond on the left is
the famous crucifix, accompanied by angels, done
by le Brun in competition with le Sueur. The
third is S. John Baptift, by Hannibal Caracci.
In the king's great chamber, the hangings are
much admired, being made at the Gobelins, after
Raphael's defign. The portrait of Lewis XIV.
over the chimney is by Rigault. The ornaments
of the ceiling are in fucco, by Lerambert, and
the figures in the corners, by Girardon. In the
king's little bed-chamber, the paintings of the
ceiling, and of the next cabinet, are by Coipel;
and the landskips of both chambers by Milet, an
eminent Flemmish painter. In the king's great
cabinet you fee the famous picture of the family of
Darius at Alexander's feet, by le Brun. Oppo-
fite
through FRANCE.
77
fite to that is the fupper of the pilgrims of Emaus,
by Paolo Veronefe. In the Salle des Machines the
paintings on the ceiling are by Coypel, from le
Brun's defigns.
*
royal.
In the palace royal, the ceiling of the firſt an- Paintings in
tichamber of the great apartment, is painted by the Palace-
Coipel. From thence you pafs to the gallery of
illuftrious men, where you fee the portraits of
the most celebrated perfonages of the French na
tion from Abbé Suger down to Marſhal Turenne,
drawn by Philip Champagne and Simon Vouet, by
Cardinal Richlieu's orders. In the antichamber
where they dine, you fee the buyers and fellers
driven out of the temple, and the paralytic cured,
by Ciro-Ferri; the death of the Virgin, Sampfon,
Prometeus, and a S. Francis in little, by Guido; and
the famous picture of the family of king Charles I.
of England, by Vandike. In the hall of the am-
baffadors you fee, Moyfes expofed on the Nile,
by Pouffin; Moyfes faved from the water, by Pa.
olo Veronefe; Abigail prefented to David, by
Guido; the maffacre of the Innocents, a famous.
piece, by Le Brun; the repofe or reft after the
flight into Egypt, by Pietro di Cortona; a manger,
and a flight into Egypt, by Baffano; a converfa-
tion piece, by Rubens; the death of Adonis, by
Hannibal Caracci; with a great many landſkips,
by eminent maſters. The new gallery of Æneas
contains the hiftory of Eneas, done in feveral
pictures, by Coipel. In the regent's chamber,
the portraits over the door are, Philip II. by
Titian; and Mary of Medicis, Seneydre, and his.
wife, all three by Vandyke.
In the little gallery there is a row of cabinets, Paintings in
all adorned with coftly pictures, collected by the the little gal-
late regent: In the firft cabinet, you fee the Palace-royal.
lery of the
holy family, by Raphael; the ſeven facraments,
by Pouffin; the ftricking of the rock, and the
infant
E 3
78
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
infant Moyfes treading on Pharaoh's crown, by
the fame hand; the death of Semele, by Caracci;
the education of Bacchus, and Alexander the Great
fick, by Le Sueur. In the fecond cabinet you
fee S. John in the defert, the holy family, and
a Virgin, all three by Raphael; the holy family, by
Barocci; the fables of the nymph Callifto, of
Acteon, and the rape of Europa, by Titian; the
judgment of Paris, by Rubens; the fame fubject
of Callifto, and Venus's toilette, by Caracci; Ju-
piter in the form of a ſwan with Leda, by Paolo
Veronefe; a Virgin, by Carlo Maratti. In the
third cabinet you fee over the door the original
portraits of Petrarch and Aretin; and within
the communion of S. Mary Magdalen, a holy
family, the baptifm of S. John, the Samaritan,
a Noli me tangere, and the predication of S. John,
by Francis Albani; the holy family, S. Peter's
head, the flight into Egypt, the burning of Troy,
a holy family, by Barocci; the paralytic, the pro-
digal fon, the ſhepherd aſleep, by Francis Baffano;
Noah's ark, and the laft judgment, by Leander
Baffano; the predication of S. John, by Blomaert;
a holy family, by Bourdon; Hercules beating
Diomedes's horfes, and the maffacre of the inno-
cents, by Le Brun; a crucifix, S. Roch with an
angel, S. Jerome and Mary Magdalen, mount
Calvary, the prodigal fon, the unnailing of
Chrift from the cross, the Samaritan, the bathing
of Diana, Venus's toilette, the holy family, S.
John asleep, S. John in the defart, Danae, Her-
cules ftrangling the ferpents, Venus and Cupid, all
by Hannibal Caracci; a Magdalen, a Noli me
tangere, Leda, Danae, the education of love, a
holy family, by Antony Caracci; the martyrdom
of S. Bartholomew, by Auguftin Caracci; an Ecce
Homo, a crown of thorns, the unnailing of Chrift
from the crofs, S. Catharine, by Lewis Caracci;
the facrifice of Ifaac, a transfiguration, a player
on
through FRANCE.
79
on the flute, by Caravagio; a facrifice of Ifaac,
a Sibyl, S. John the Evangelist, S. Francis, S.
Jerome, two landfkips, a carrying of the croſs,
by Domenico; a nativity, the adoration of the
kings, a flight into Egypt, by Durer; a wounded
cavalier, Gaſton de Foix, S. Peter Martyr, Picus
of Mirandela, the adoration of the fhepherds,
the invention of the crofs, Milo of Crotona, by
Giorgione; a Magdalen, Sufanna going to bathe,
Suſanna with the old men, a virgin, Herodias, a
Sibylla, David and Abigail, S. Bonaventura, S.
Seboftian, by Guido; the reprefentation of the
Virgin, a picture of our Lady, another of Chrift,
David and Abigail, by Guercin; the portrait of
a woman, Sir Thomas More, George Lyfein, Tho-
mas Cromwell, by Holbein; the infancy of Ju-
piter, the birth of Bacchus, the bathing of Venus,
the rape of the Sabins, Coriolanus, the fiege of
Carthage, Scipio's virtue, Scipio diftributing mi-
litary rewards, by Julio Romano; the portrait of
a woman, the annunciation, a Roman charity, by
Lanfranco; the unnailing of Christ from the croſs,
the prayer in the Garden of Olives, Ganymedes,
the holy family, by Michael Angelo; Galatea,
the Virgin and the infant Jefus, by Carlo Ma-
ratti; a Venus lying down, S. Catharine, a holy
family, Herodias, a Doge of Fenice, by James
Palma; Leda, Mars difarmed by Venus, the death
of Adonis, Mars and Venus tied by love, wiſdom
the companion of Hercules, refpect, love, diftafte,
infidelity, Mars and Venus, the burning of Troy,
the Ifraelites going out of Egypt, the judgment
of Solomon, Moyfes faved, by Paolo Veronese;
the holy family, the picture of our Lord, the
bleffed Virgin, S. Jofeph and S. Francis together,
by Parmeggiano; a landfkip, the flight of Jacob,
by Pietro di Cortona; the adoration of our Lord,
the bleffed Virgin and her child Jefus, the un-
E 4
nailing
80
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
:
nailing of Christ from the cross, by Pietro Per-
gino; the extafy of S. Paul, by Pouffin; the
portrait of an old woman, the bleffed Virgin,
Julius II. S. John in the defart, the holy family,
the vifion of Ezekiel, S. Anthony, S. Francis and
feveral virgins, our Saviour in the tomb, the
prayer in the Garden of Olives, the carrying of
the cross, by Raphael; a picture of night, a land-
fkip, the portrait of a Flemish woman, a burgo-
mafter, by Rembrant; the dream of Caravagio,
our Saviour in the middle of the doctors, S. Jofeph,
Democritus, Heraclitus, by Ribera called the Ef-
pagnolet; the hiftory of Conftantin in twelve
fketches, Thomiris, Scipio's continency, Gany-
medes, Philopomenes's adventure, Mars and Venus,
Diana returning from hunting, the judgment of
Paris, the hiftory of S. George, by Rubens; the
carrying of the crofs, Adam and Abel, by Andrew
Sacchi; a philofopher, Chriſt dead, Pilate waſh-
ing his hands, Chrift in the tomb, by Schiavone;
the portrait of Michael Angelo, the unnailing of
Chrift from crofs, the refurrection of Lazarus,
by Sebaftiano del Piombo; Alexander and his phy-
fician, by Le Sueur; a portrait of Henry III.
the prefentation in the temple, the converfion
of S. Thomas, a confiftory, the unnailing of Chriſt
from the crofs, Titian, Pietro Aretino, the dukes
of Ferrara, the fuckling of Hercules, Leda, by
Tintoret; the emperor Otho, count Castillon,
Charles V. Philip II. Clement VII. Acteon, Cal-
lifto, human life, Venus in the fhell, Titian's
miſtreſs, the tempter, Diana and Acteon, Vitel-
lius, Vefpafian, the rape of Europa, Venus ad-`
miring herfelf, Perfeus and Andromeda, the edu-
cation of love, a Mary Magdalen, a Noli me tan-
gere, Philip II. and his miftrefs, by Titian; the
judgment of Paris, a woman felling freſh fea-fish,
a woman felling eggs, by Vander-Werff; the
royal
through FRANCE.
81
royal family of England, Mary of Medicis, a
man with an arrow, the Virgin and the little
child Jefus, an English peer, the princefs of
Phalzburg, the earl of Arundel, by Vandyke;
and four beautiful landfkips, by Wouerman.
The palace of Luxemburg is famous, as we Paintings in
have already obferved, for its beautiful gallery, Luxemburg.
the palace of
containing the hiſtory of Mary of Medicis painted
within the ſpace of two years, in twenty large
pictures, nine feet broad, and ten high, by the
celebrated Peter Paul Rubens. As there is a great
deal of allegory in thofe pieces, which renders
them fomewhat obfcure, 'tis proper for a ſtranger,
to have the explication of them publifhed by
Monf. Moreau de Mautour in 1714, for the uſe
of the duke of Mantua. In the chapel of this
palace near the gallery, the paintings on wood,
which are much efteemed, are by Albert Durer.
In the hall of the Mufes, the picture over the
chimney, is young David naked, holding Goliah's
head, by Guido. In the fame hall there is a pic-
ture of Mary of Medicis, by Vandyke, Over
the chimney of the Salle des Gardes, there is a
picture repreſenting riches with its attributes, by
Guido.
There are a great many other remarkable paint- Other famou
ings in Paris, the principal of which we fhall paintings of
In the Carthufian convent, the
here enumerate.
cloyſter is adorned with pictures of an ineftimable
value, reprefenting the life of S. Bruno, by Le
Sueur; fome of them have been disfigured thro
malice, fo that the monks have been obliged to
cover them with a kind of cafe under lock and
key. In the room called the Chapter, there is
an admirable fine crucifix, by Champagne; and
an excellent picture of our Saviour appearing
to S. Mary Magdalen, under the habit of a
gardner, by Le Sueur.---In the church of
E 5
Notre
Paris.
+
82
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Notre Dame, you fee a great number of good
pictures, and among the reft, the martyrdom of
S. Peter, by Bourdon; the death of S. James, by
Coipel; the martyrdom of S. Stephen, and the
martyrdom of S. Andrew, by Le Brun; S. Paul
burning the books of the pagans, by Le Sueur,
-In the chamber des Enquetes, in the Palais,
there is an excellent picture of the woman caught
in adultery, by Bourdon; and another of the ac-
cufation of Suſanna, by Le Brun.—In the church
of S. Germain L'Auxerrois, the pictures of S.
Vincent and S. Germain in the parochial chapel,
are by Champagne; thofe of the next and the op-
pofite chapel, are by Bourdon and Leonardo da
Vinci.In the church of the Capuchins, and
ftreet of S. Honoré, there is a beautiful picture of
Christ expiring, by Le Sueur. In the Hotel de
Toulouſe, there are four pieces over the doors of
the apartments, by Baffano; and in the cabinets
there is a good collection of pictures, by the belt
hands. In the Hotel de Bullion there are two gal-
leries filled with very good paintings, one by
Blanchard, and the other by Simon Vouet.-Over
the door of the choir of S. Martins in the fields,
there is an excellent crucifix, by Sarazin.-In
the church of S. Gervafius, you may fee the hi-
ftory of S. Gervafius and Protafius, excellently
well drawn, by Bourdon, Le Sueur, Gouſſe, and
Champagne. In the convent of the Picpus friars
the high altar-piece is by Le Brun, as alfo ano-
ther picture in the refectory.-In the church of
S. Paul, there are two excellent pictures in the
two chapels as you come in on the right hand;
one the benediction of the Sacrament, by Le Brun,
and the other the afcenfion, by Jouvenet. In the
houſe of the prefident Lambert de Thorigny in the
ifle Notre Dame, you fee the rape of the Sabines,
an admirable picture, by Baffano; the paintings
of
through FRANCE.
83
of the chambers are by Le Sueur, and thofe of the
ceiling of the gallery of the fecond floor by Le
Brun.-In the Dominican church in the ftreet of
S. James, there is an admirable picture of the
nativity of our Lady over the door of the choir,
which was drawn by Valentine, and made a pre-
fent of to this convent by Cardinal Mazarin.
In the church of the Nuns of the Vifitation, the
tar-piece repreſenting S. Francis Sales, is by
Brun.-In the church of the barefooted Car-
elite nuns, the great altar-piece repreſenting the
annunciation is by Guido; the roof of the church
has an excellent piece of perſpective repreſenting
our Saviour crucified, and the bleffed Virgin,
by Champagne. Of the twelve pictures with gilt
frames under the windows, the firft fix on the
right are by Champagne, and much efteemed.
The fecond on the other fide is S. Mary Magda-
len, one of Le Brun's best pieces; the fifth is
Christ in the defert, by the fame hand. The
great picture oppofite the choir reprefents the
annunciation, by Guido. In the chapel of S.
Mary Magdalen, there is a picture of this faint
doing pennance, the beſt piece that was ever
drawn by Le Brun. In the church of Val de
Grace, and chapel of S. Anne, there is a picture
of the happineſs of the bleffed, reckoned one of
the fineſt in the world, and drawn by the famous
Mignard.-In the Jefuits church of the Noviciate,
there is a picture of S. Francis Xavier curing
a young woman, by Pouffin, and efteemed one
of the best pictures in France. In the chapel of
the feminary of S. Sulpice, the ceiling is adorned
with an admirable fine picture of the affumption
of the Virgin, by Le Brun; and the altar-piece
repreſenting the defcent of the Holy Ghoft, is by
the fame hand. In the Hotel de Condé, among
feveral other fine pieces, there is a most beautiful
E 6
picture
84
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The opera
houſes,
picture of the baptifm of our Lord, by Albant.
In the church of the Nuns of the Immaculate
Conception, there is a picture of our Saviour wash-
ing the feet of his apoftles, one of Tintoret's beſt
pieces. In the Hotel de Richlieu, there are fe-
veral excellent pieces, done by Rubens.
They have one theatre for opera's and two for
and play- plays at Paris. The opera houfe is juſt by the
palace royal, to which it formerly belonged, but
was excepted in the donation of that palace made
by Lewis XIV, to the duke of Orleans. Their
operas are acted four times a week, Sundays,
Tuesdays, Thurfdays, and Fridays. The price of
the balconies is a Louis d' Or; the firft boxes and
the amphitheatre eight livres; the ſecond boxes
four livres; the third boxes and the pit forty
fols. There are two play-houſes, one for the
French, and the other for the Italian comedy.
The first is in the Rue des Foffes, and quarter
of Luxemburg, and was built in 1688 by
D'Orbai, a famous architect; the ceiling of
this theatre is painted by Boulogne. The price of
the firſt boxes and the amphitheatre is four livres,
the ſecond boxes forty fols, the third boxes thirty
fols, and twenty fols the pit. The theatre for
Italian comedies, fo called not becauſe they are
acted in Italian, but for being in the Ita-
lian manners, is the Hotel de Bourgogne, and
ftands in the Rue Mauconfeil, and quarter of S.
Denis.
Paris an
Paris was a bishopric fuffragan to the arch-
archbishopric. bishop of Sens, till Pope Gregory XV, erected it
into an archbishopric at the requeſt of Lewis XIII,
in 1622. Lewis XIV, made the archbishops of
Paris perpetual dukes and peers of France in
1674. The archbishop exerciſes a civil as well
as ecclefiaftical jurifdiction in the lands belonging
to his fee; his revenue is computed at an hundred
to
through FRANCE.
85
and twenty thouſand livres a year, which amounts
to upwards of ten thousand pounds a year Engliſh
money. The chapter of the cathedral confifts
of eight dignitaries, and fifty canons; and has
a hundred and eighty thouſand livres a year.
The civil government of Paris is diftributed Civil govern
among feveral courts of juftice, the higheft of ment of Paris
which is the parliament, whofe jurifdiction ex-
tends over feveral of the neighbouring provinces,
and is the laſt reſort in all caufes, where the court
does not intermeddle. This parliament confifts.
of the chief prefident, nine prefidents a mor-
tier, one and twenty prefidents by commiffion,
two hundred and fourteen counfellors, with the
neceffary officers, as attorney and follicitor general,
regifter, &c. It is divided into nine chambers
or houſes, which have each their respective
branches of buſineſs affigned them. They affem-
ble in the quarter of the city in a building called
the Palais, becauſe it was once the ordinary re-
fidence of the French kings. It is faid to have
been built by the ancestors of Hugh Capet, the The Palaise
firſt French king of the third line, and contains a
great many large halls, filled with bookfellers,
jewellers, and toy-men. The architecture of this
edifice, though in the Gothic tafte, is much ad-
mired by all able connoiffeurs. Contiguous to it
there is a chapel, called the Holy Chapel, efteemed
a curious and beautiful ftructure. The parlia-
ment begins to fit the 12th of November, and
opens its affemblies with a folemn fervice called
the red maſs, becauſe the members attend all in
fcarlet robes. The other courts in Paris are the
chamber of accounts; the court of aids; the court
des monoyes, which regards the coinage, weights,
and meaſures; the court of the treasury; the court
of the waters and forefts; the court of the conftable
and marſhals ; the court of admiralty; the chatelet,
$
or
86
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Military go-
vernment.
Trade of
Paris.
or the ordinary court of juftice for the civil go-
vernment of the city, of which the provoft, who
is like our lord mayor, with the four eſchevins or
aldermen, and twenty-fix counſellors, are judges;
the court of the Hotel de Ville or Guild-hall,
which takes an account of the city rents, and
the taxes on all provifions brought into Paris;
and finally the court of the confuls, which takes
cognizance of all things relating to commerce, in
which courts the provoft (by himſelf or his lieu-
tenant) prefides, being nominated by the king.
The efchevins have fixteen quarterniers under them,
with their commiffaries and other under officers,
a hundred and twenty archers or watchmen, fixty
cross-bow-men, a hundred mufque tiers, with a
watch of foot and horfe that go the rounds every
night, commanded by a captain, who is called
Le Chevalier du Guet, or knight of the watch.
Befides the civil there is alfo a military govern-
ment of Faris, which in this and in every other
province is independent if not fuperior to the civil
power. The courts above-mentioned are fuffered
to go on without interruption, where the crown
is not concerned, and while they obey the dic-
tates of the miniftry; but ſhould they prefume to
diſpute the king's pleaſure, they would foon be
made fenfible of their error by a military force,
Paris being in reality fubject to a lieutenant-
general. The captains of the cattles or palaces of
the Louvre and Tuilleries receive orders alfo im-
mediately from the king, and the governors of
the Baftile and the Hotel des Invalides are account-
able only to his majeſty.
The trade of Paris confifts chiefly of the ma-
nufactures of that city, which are very confidera-
ble. Theſe manufactures are principally gold and
filver ftuffs, wrought filks, velvet, gold and fil-
ver lace, ribbands, tapeftry, linnen, and glaſs.
They
through FRANCE.
87
They have two great fairs every year, one in the
fuburb of S. Germains, which begins on the
third of February, and lafts a fortnight; and the
other at S. Lawrence's, which begins on the feſti-
val of that faint, and ends the ſeventh of Septem-
ber. There are fix principal bodies or companies
of tradefmen, out of which the confuls who
have the regulation of trade are choſen, viz. the
drapers, the grocers and apothecaries, the mer-
cers and jewellers, the fkinners, the hatters, and
the goldſmiths; befides which there are the book-
fellers, the vintners and wine merchants, the
wool-merchants and timber - merchants, who
have all their particular privileges.
don.
By the deſcription hitherto given, 'tis poffible Comparifon
to form fome idea of this great city, though not between Pa-
to determine the controverfy of fuperiority be- ris and Lon-
tween it and its rival London. And indeed this
is a point which is not fo eaſily decided with
exactness, the people of both nations generally
exaggerating the excellence of their refpective ca-
pitals. However, though we do not pretend here
to determine this difpute, yet a compariſon of
theſe two great cities, as far as the moſt probable
accounts on both fides will carry us, may very
likely prove acceptable to the reader. And firſt
with respect to compafs and extent, it is thought
that Paris ftands upon more ground than London;
as it contains ſuch a vaſt number of convents and
hotels, most of which have their courts and gar-
dens; whereas London is thick built, and in the
city the houſes have ſcarce a yard big enough for
a pump or a houfe of conveniency. As for the
number of inhabitants, the weekly bills of mor-
tality in both cities ſeem to decide this point in
favour of London. In refpect to fhew and ap-
pearance of buildings, Paris has undoubtedly the
preference, the hotels of their noblemen excelling
any
88
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
any thing of that kind in London; befides, their
houſes being generally more lofty, and built of
ſtone, make a bolder and nobler figure than thoſe
of brick. But on the other hand, there is a
much jufter medium obferved in the houſes of
London, which are neither too high nor too
low, and much excel thofe of Paris in neat-
nefs and conveniency. The ftreets of Paris
are a great deal too narrow in proportion to
the height of the houſes, which renders them
leſs airy and wholfome; but they are much
cleaner than our London ftreets, and the pave-
ment is kept in better order, though they have
not the conveniency of broad paved foot-ways
with poſts to defend them againft coaches and
carts. To come to neceffaries of life, London
feems to have the advantage in this refpect by
means of the river Thames, which fupplies it with
all neceffaries much better than the Seine does
Paris. Among thefe neceffaries we muſt rank
in the first place water, which is diftributed in
great plenty and of the very best quality from
the river Thames and the New-River, all over
the town; whereas at Paris they are daily
obliged to cry water about the streets, which
they bring in buckets from the river Seine,
and is neither well tafted nor very wholfome,
as appears from the effect it has fometimes
in giving violent gripes and purging. But
they have the advantage of us in another reſpect,
their wine being the beft in Europe, and very
reaſonable, which renders them lively and active;
whereas the heavy malt liquor our common people
drink, puffs up their bodies and flattens their vi-
vacity and fpirits. Their eatables for the moſt
part are not fo good as in London, and though in
dreffing they may furpafs us for delicacy and tafte,
yet for wholeſomeneſs they are inferior to us,
·
moft
through FRANCE.
89
moſt of their diſhes being too high feafoned, and
fome of them a perfect hodg-podge, or according
to the vulgar proverb, a medicine for a fick dog.
We have not entered here into a compariſon con-
cerning trade, becauſe the ſubject will not admit
of it, Paris being an inland city, and London
the greateſt fea-port town of the known
world.
modations for
There are a great many fine inns at Paris, where Inns and o-
travellers may be extremely well accommodated, ther accom-
in proportion to the figure and expence they in- ftrangers at
tend to make. The principal of theſe are, the Paris.
Hotel Imperial, in the ftreet Dauphin, and fu-
burb of S. Germains; and over-againft it the
Hotel d'Anjou; the Hotel d' Hambourg, the Hotel
d'Orleans, and the Hotel de Piccardie, in the street
Mazarin; the Hotel d'Espagne, in the street de
Seine; the Hotel Imperial, in the Rue de Four;
the Doge of Venice, in the ftreet de Boucherie; the
grand Hotel de Luine, and the little Hotel de Luine,
on the Quay des Auguftins; the Croix de Fer, the
Croix Blanche, and the Croix Dorée, in the ſtreet
of S. Denis, befides feveral others too tedious to
mention. Thofe who intend to ſtay ſome time
at Paris, and do not chufe to be at the expence
of living in thefe Hotels, may hire a furniſhed
lodging, and dine at the public ordinaries, of which
there are a great number at very reaſonable prices.
Or elfe they may board with a private family,
where they can be furniſhed with a neat room,
a hot dinner and fupper (breakfaſt they find
themſelves) with a pint of wine at each meal for
the fum of fixty livres, which is two pounds twelve
fhillings and fix-pence English money a month;
though fome will have more, according to the
goodneſs of the apartment, or the variety and
elegance of the entertainment.
Of
***
•
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The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Vincennes.
Of the most remarkable places in the neigh
bourhood of PARIS.
There are few cities in Europe that have fuch
agreeable avenues, and fo charming a neighbour-
hood as Paris. It would be too tedious a detail
to enter into a defcription of every place; where-
fore we ſhall only give a fhort account of the
royal feats, and a few other places that are moft
deferving of a traveller's notice: Thefe are,
Vincennes, S. Germains, Verfailles, Trianon, Mar-
li, Meudon, S. Cloud, Madrid, Fontainbleau, and
S. Denis, the laſt of which has been already de-
fcribed in this volume, p. 50.
VINCENNES.
Vincennes is an ancient caftle or palace fituated.
in the ifle of France, on the eaft fide of Paris,
in the midst of a wood or foreft, where the ci-
tizens of Paris divert themſelves with walking
and other exercifes. It was begun in 1183, by
Philip Auguftus, and the work carried on by fe-
veral princes, fome of whom chofe it for their
place of refidence. Under Lewis XIV, it was
repaired and beautified; and now it is a place of
confinement for prifoners of ſtate. It has a hand-
fome fpacious court with a ftately chapel, and
pleafant walks; furrounded with a good ditch, a
wall, and eight great fquare towers.
The gal-
lery was built by Mary of Medicis, and contains
fome good paintings. The ceiling of the king's
apartment is painted by Champagne. The great
gate towards the park is an excellent piece of
architecture, built in the form of a triumphal
arch, and adorned with the Doric order.
There
is
through FRANCE.
91
is an oak here, under which Lewis IX. common-
ly called S. Lewis, ufed to adminifter juftice to
his ſubjects at a table covered with a carpet,
whence came the phrafe, To lay a thing upon the
carpet. There is a very pleafant convent of Mi-
nims in the foreft, founded by Charles VIII. One
of its principal curiofities is, an excellent picture
of the day of judgment, by John Coufin, which
is to be ſeen in the facrifty of thoſe friars.
S. GERMAINS.
S. Germains, commonly called S. Germains en S. Germains.
Laye, is a fmall town of the ifle of France, in
the district of Mantois, fituated on a high hill,
at the foot of which runs the Seine, about twelve
miles to the westward of Paris, and one from
Verſailles. It is remarkable for the royal caftle The caftle.
or palace, which was begun by Charles V, and
enlarged and beautified by fucceeding princes, but
eſpecially by Lewis XIV, who was born here.
The palace is built in the form of a caſtle, and
furrounded with a dry ditch. A magnificent
ftone gallery runs round the middle of the whole
ftructure, which is of an oval figure, and the
roof is covered with thin fat free-ftone inftead of
tiles. The chapel is remarkable for an excellent
altar-piece, reprefenting the Lord's Supper, by
Pcuffin. The profpect from the cattle is admira-
blc, eſpecially towards the river and the plains,
having Paris, S. Denis, and Marli, within fight.
There is a curious mall in this cafile, with fquare
pavilions built all along, for the conveniency of
the players and fpectators. Among the improve-
ments made to this place by Lewis XIV, he ad-
ded the terrafs of above three thoufand paces in
length, the grand parterre, and the valley-garden.
There are abundance of dry grottos, which af
ford
92
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Town of
ford pleaſant retreats in the fummer,” and ſeveral
wet ones, with curious water-works, and artifi-
cial birds, which make an agreeable found. In
one of the grottos there is a virgin playing on the
organs, whofe eyes are fo artificially moved, that
The feems to be alive; in another place there is
an Orpheus playing on the lute, and keeping time,
while the beaſts, birds, woods and rocks feem to
follow him, with feveral reprefentations of the
like nature, all put in motion by water. The
adjacent foreſt contains upwards of five thousand
acres, and is cut through with an infinite num-
ber of large ridings, well repleniſhed with game,
which renders it a moft agreeable fituation for
hunting. It was in this caffle that the late king
James refided with his court during his exile, and
here he died in 1701. His body was afterwards
interred in the convent of the English Benedictins
in Paris.
The town of S. Germains is well peopled,
S. Germains, which is owing to the goodness of the air, and
the privileges they enjoy. The houſes are high
and well built. There are fome fquares, with fe-
veral hotels; among the reft, that of the duke of
Noailles, which is well furniſhed, and has fome
handfome gardens. The town has only one pariſh,
an hofpital, and ſome convents, which are thoſe
of the Recollects, the Urfuline Nuns, and the
barefooted Auguftinians, who live in the foreft.
The town
VERSAILLES.
In the
Verſailles is a fmall town of the ifle of France,
of Verſailles, fituated on a rifing ground and champain coun-
try, about twelve miles weft of Paris.
days of Lewis XIII, it was but a little village,
and the caſtle like a plain country-houſe, where
that prince uſed to keep his hunting equipage.
But
through FRANCE.
93
But his fon Lewis XIV, being taken with the
place, made a city of the village, and converted
the caſtle into one-of the fineſt palaces of the
world; having employed the famous Manfard
forty years in embelliſhing it. Verſailles is divided
into the old and new town. Old Versailles is to-
wards the avenue of Seaux, and comprehends
the kitchen garden, near the Swiss's piece, and
the convent and church of the Recollect friars,
which are both very plain. There are a great
many hotels and good houſes in this quarter, as
likewiſe the ſtables of the life-guards, and feveral
magazines. New Verfailles is towards the avenue
of S. Cloud, and here there is a large fquare,
called Place Dauphine, a market-place, and a pa-
rish church. The houſes are well built, and the
ſtreets wide and uniform. Not far from the
market-place are the queen's ftables, the fquare
of Bourgundy, and the caftle of water, which is
a large pavilion that ferves for a refervoir. The
parish church is a very handſom building, forty-
feven fathoms long, and eighteen broad. It is
built of free-ftone, very lightfome, and extreme-
ly neat. The church is ferved by the fathers of
the miffion of S. Lazarus, who have a large houſe
here, founded by Lewis XIV, for thirty-fix fa-
thers. In this quarter there are ſeveral hotels built
by the lords of the court for their conveniency
during the time they refide at Versailles.
from Paris
to Perfailles.
From Paris you may go to Verfailles for five Carriages
and twenty fols with the Coche, which fets out
twice a day from the rue Saint Nicaife. You
may likewife go with a caroffe or ftage-coach
that holds but four, for a French crown each; or
with a poſt-chaife. Thofe that have a mind to
be faving, may go by water for five fols as far as
Seve, which is half way, either with the boats
of
94
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Palace of
of Seve or S. Cloud; they fet out at eight in the
morning from Pont Royal. From Seve there is a
great caufe-way that carries you by the heights of
Viroflé to the great avenue of Versailles.
There are three fine avenues to the palace,
Verſailles. leading from fo many towns, viz. the middle.
one from Paris, the right from S. Cloud, and the
left from Seaux, confifting each of three beautiful
walks of trees, which terminate in a kind of pa-
rade. The middle walk of the grand avenue is
fifty yards wide, and each of thofe on the fide
of it twenty. At the upper end of the grand a-
venue, on the right and left, are the ftables in
the form of a crefcent, fo magnificently built and
adorned, that few royal palaces exceed them,
where the king has five hundred horſes, the fineſt
the world can afford for coach and ſaddle. Here
are alſo two fine riding-houfes, one covered, and
Courts before the other uncovered. From the parade you paſs
the Palace, into the first court, through an iron pallifade ſet
upon a low wall; this court is flanked with four
large pavilions, where are the apartments of the
fecretaries of ftate, the comptroller general of
the finances, and other officers. From hence
you aſcend by three fteps through another iron
gate, adorned with trophies into the ſecond court,
which is feparated alfo from the first by an iron.
pallifade, and is fomething lefs than the former,
adorned with a noble fountain in the middle,
and magnificent offices on each wing.
The Chapel,
Before you enter the leaſt court of all, you may
ftop to ſee the chapel, which is behind a wing of the
caftle, and on the right hand as you come into
he court. It is an exceeding fine piece of archi-
tecture, built of free-ftone in the Corinthian or-
der, and is twenty-two fathoms long, twelve
broad, and about fourteen high. On the top
there
through FRANCE.
95
there is a fine baluftrade, with eight and twenty
ſtatues. Nothing can be more beautiful or richer
than the inward embelliſhments of this chapel.
The great altar is of the fineſt marble, adorned
with feveral works in brafs. The chapel of the
facrament is painted by Silvester, and the middle
picture repreſents the Lord's Supper. The chapel
of S. Lewis, where this king is repreſented on
the field of battle, comforting the fick, is painted
by Jouvenet. The facrifty is very neat, and
wainſcotted in a moft elegant manner.
You a-
ſcend to the tribunes by two ftair-cafes with iron
rails richly gilt. The king's tribune faces the
great altar, over the great door, and is thirteen
feet and a half wide. The two lamps are gilt in
an exquiſite tafte, and the glaffes are exceeding
beautiful. The queen's tribune is on the right;
and the tribune that runs round the chapel is nine
feet and a quarter wide, fupported by fixteen pil-
lars, and fome pilafters of the Corinthian order.
The balustrade is very rich and elegant. The
roof is beautifully painted by Coipel, La Foffe,
Jouvenet, and Boulogne.
From the chapel you pafs into a third court Outſide of
ſtill leſs than the former, paved with black and the Palace.
white marble, to which you afcend by five fteps.
This court has a marble baſon and fountain`in
the middle, adorned with ſtatues of copper gilt,
and is terminated by a noble pile of building,
called the old caftle, and built by Lewis XIII.
which, with the wings, conftitute the royal a-
partments. The front and wings are of brick
and free-ſtone, with marble bufts and brackets
of the fame. In the front there is a noble por-
tico, with three iron doors richly gilt and wrought,
which gives an entrance into the hall and faloons,
adorned with marble pillars, ftatues, and paint-
ings,
96
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The great a-
partment.
ings, by Le Brun and Vandermeulen. The prin-
cipal ftair-cafe is above ten yards wide, confift-
ing of the finest marble, and beautified with ad-
mirable fculptures and paintings.
The great apartment confifts of a large triple
row of rooms, all very magnificent. From the
two halls which ferve as thorough-fares into the
chapel, you pafs into the hall of Plenty, adorned
with pictures by the beſt hands. Thence you
proceed to the chamber of antiquities and jewels,
which is of an octagon figure, and enlightened by
a roof in the form of a dome. Here, among
other, precious curiofities, they have the fineſt
agate in Europe, being of three colours, and
four or five inches in diameter, reprefenting the
figure of a naked emperor, carried on the back
of an eagle, and crowned with victory. The
fcrutore in the middle of this chamber, contains
a moft magnificent collection of ancient and mo-
dern medals. The first pieces were given to
Lewis XIV, by his uncle the duke of Orleans,
and afterwards, by much fearch and expence, it
was made the completeft collection in the world.
The hall of Venus has fome fine paintings, and
an ancient ftatue of Cincinnatus. The hall of
the billiard table is likewife adorned with fine
paintings, and with Lewis XIV's buſt by Cheva-
lier Bernini. The hall of Mars, has a great
number of fine paintings, and among the reft the
family of Darius at Alexander's feet, one of Le
Brun's beft pieces. On the ceiling the God
Mars is reprefented in a chariot drawn by wolves.
The hall of Mercury is painted by Champagne,
where you may fee ſeveral other pieces by the fame
hand, and likewife fome by Raphael, Titian,
and other eminent mafters. The hall of Apollo
has fome excellent pieces, and among the reft
the
through FRANCE.
97
the four ſeaſons by La Foffe, and ſeveral pictures,
by Guido. The halls of war and peace are at
both ends of the gallery, the former has fome
good paintings reprefenting the actions of Lewis
XIV, by Le Brun.
From the hall of war you paſs to the great The great
gallery, the moſt beautiful and magnificent in gallery.
Europe. It is thirty-feven fathoms long, and ſe-
ven broad, ending with a great arch, which leads
into the formentioned halls, and adorned with
two marble pillars. On the garden - fide there
are feventeen windows, which look into it;
and on the fide of the king's apartment as many
arches, filled with large peer-glaffes. Theſe arches
and windows are feparated by twenty-four pilafters.
The roof is excellently painted by Le Brun, and
repreſents in allegorical or emblematical figures,
part of the memorable tranſactions of the late
king's reign, from the Pyrenean treaty to the
peace of Nimeguen. The reft of the gallery is
adorned with bufts, veffels, tables of porphyry
and alabaster, and with eight ancient ftatues,
among which thofe of Bacchus, Venus, Germani-
cus, and Diana are moſt eſteemed.
From the great gallery you may proceed direct- The queen's
ly to the queen's apartment, which is of the fame apartment.
dimenfions as the king's, but of different work-
manſhip, adorned with paintings of very great
value, chiefly by Vignon and Coypel. Paffing to The king's
the landing-place of the great marble ftair-cafe, apartment,
you come to the king's apartment, diftributed in-
to feveral chambers. First you enter into the
hall of guards, adorned with gilding and looking-
glaffes.
The next is the hall where the king
dines in public, embelliſhed with pictures of feve-
ral battles. From thence you país to the great
hall, which is worthy of admiration for its riches
and beauty; particularly for the frize round about
VOL. IV.
F
it,
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
r
The front to-
wards the
gardens.
it, with the Mofaic work and baffo-relievo's.
The king's chamber is ornamented with a great
deal of magnificence, and good order. His bed
is of crimſon velvet, with a beautiful and rich
embroidery (fometimes of damaſk, and other
times of gold tiffue according to the feafon) placed
in an alcove, and encloſed with a gilded balu-
ftrade. The moft exquifite pictures adorn this
royal chamber, and the reft of the furniture is
magnificently elegant. The council hall has
three excellent pictures by Pouffin, and one by
Lanfranco. The billiard room has a noble fine
billiard-table, at which Lewis XIV uſed to play
very often, and is likewife embellifhed with a
great many excellent pictures, particularly the
unnailing of our Saviour from the crofs, one of Le
Brun's best pieces, with ſeveral others by Mignard,
Pouffin, Caracci, Guido, and Albani. From
this room you proceed to feveral other chambers,
all finely adorned with paintings, till you come
to the little gallery, which is the laft piece of
the king's apartment. The ceilings of this gal-
lery and of the two halls at the end of it, were
painted by Mignard. This gallery is likewife
full of fome of the beft pieces of Caracci, Albani,
Guido, Raphael, Titian, Domenichini, Mignard,
and other painters of the firſt rank. Thence you
proceed to the apartments belonging to the Dau-
phin and the rest of the royal family, which con
fift of chambers, cabinets, halls, &c. laid out.
with a great deal of art to render them more com-
modious.
The front next the gardens is much the fineft,
and is called the new cattle or palace. On this
fide there is a magnificent portico, fupported by
marble pillars and floored with marble an hundred
yards in length. Entering the portico, you find
four ſtatues of braſs, fixt in the face of the caftle,
and
through FRANCE.
99
.:
and in the wings there are two large veffels of
white marble. The gardens here facing you
are not to be paralleled in Europe, all the beauti-
ful models that Italy or the world affords having
been confidered in order to render them the moſt
perfect in their kind.
The firſt parterre or walk ftrait forward from Defcription
the palace, is ornamented with water - works, of the gardens
confifting of two great bafons, with feveral
of Versailles.
water - ſpouts in the middle, which fpurt up
the water to a confiderable height. The borders
are adorned with eight brafs images; reprefent-
ing floods, rivers, and nymphs. In the angles Parterres.
of this walk, there are two other bafons alfo of
marble, whoſe water-fpouts form a bow of fin-
gular beauty, and each of the borders is divided
into knots of animals made of braſs. From this
parterre you ſee the bafon of Latona, adorned
with fourteen veffels which ſurround it, and like-
wife with a knot of three figures, repreſenting
Latona, Apollo, and Diana, by Merſey. Near
this, are two other bafons, adorned likewiſe
with little knots of figures.
From this par-
terre you defcend to another on the north fide,
by ſteps of white marble, in the angles of which
are two ftatues, one of which is Venus from
an antique. At the entrance of this parterre,
you fee fix veffels of marble placed fymmetrical-
ly. The fountain of the pyramid is at the other
extremity, and confifts of four bafons, which
form a moſt agreeable fight in playing. You fee
here alſo two other bafons, adorned with Tri-
tons and Syrens. The caſcade at the head of the
water-work, is a great fquare that receives what
comes from the fountain of the pyramid; its prin-
cipal face is raifed higher than the other, and
embelliſhed with beautiful workmanship. All
F 2
theſe
•
2
100
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Water-
works.
Statues,
thefe works of fculpture are done by the famous
Girardon.
The alley or walk by the water is divided by.
two gazons, or green-plots, to each of which there
are feven knots, placed in the middle of the baſon
of white marble; and fupports another, out of
which pours a great cafcade of water, which
fpreading itſelf, forms a little bafon. The dra-
gon - fountain is a bafon of twenty fathom di-
ameter. The bafon of Neptune is a great and
magnificent piece of water, bordered with a hand-
fome tablet, and imbelliſh'd with twenty-two
great veffels of metal, each of which has a water-
Ipout in the middle; and between each veffel there
are many ſpouts, which raife the water to a very
great height. The water which ſupplies all thefe
works, and the rest of the gardens, is brought
from the Seine, about the diftance of a league and
a half from Verſailles, being carried to an aqueduct
of thirty-fix arches on the top of an hill, by a pro-
digious machine. From this reſervoir it is con-
vey'd by large iron pipes to the fountains and
canals in the gardens of Verſailles and Marli.
On the other fide you fee three ftatues, repre-
fenting Fauftina, Fame, and Berenice. You re-
turn afterwards to the fountain of the pyramid,
where all the ftatues of the park or garden are re-
prefented to view. In the half-moon of the
bafon of Apollo, on the left hand, you fee a fenator,
Agrippina, Juno, Victory, Titus, Hercules, and
in the feparation of the half-moon, a Brutus, all
antiques. On the right hand, in the faid half-
moon, you ſee Titus, Antinous, Abundance, Apollo,
Auguftus, a Roman fenator, antiques. The bafon of
Apollo is at the end of the great avenue or walk, and
facing the caftle. It is a long fquare, meaſuring
one way fixty fathoms, and forty-five another.
Apollo
through FRANCE.
IOI
Apollo is here in his chariot, drawn by four horfes,
and furrounded with tritons, whales, and dolphins,
all of metal, an excellent piece by Tubi.
canal.
The great canal is thirty-two fathoms broad, and
eight hundred long. At the head of it there is a The great
large fpace of water that joins it, of an octagon
figure; towards the middle it is crofs'd by another
canal of about one hundred and twenty fathoms
long; two arms of which run, one to Trianon,
and the other to the Menagerie. At the bottom
of the canal there is a much larger ſpace of water
than that at the head. The parterre of flowers is
to the east, of the fame proportion as the parterre The parterre
to the north fide. It is adorned with eight vaſes of flowers.
or pots of white marble, befides two others in
brafs. From thence you defcend to the parterre
of orange-trees by two rails of extraordinary mag-
nificence. This parterre confifts of fix great plat-
forms for feats, and a great bafon of water in the
middle. The orangery is one of the fineſt pieces
of architecture in the world, built by the famous The Oran-
Manfard, who gave it lefs folidity than beauty, gery.
for it is already thought to menace ruin. It con-
fifts of three galleries; that at the end is eight fa-
thoms long, and in the middle is the king's ftatue
of white marble, by Desjardins. The other two
galleries are in a circular form, and fixty fathoms
long; they communicate with the great gallery of
two round towers. Thefe galleries are adorned in
the Italian manner; in the porch you fee a ftatue
of ſtone, which is thought to be Ceres mourning
for Proferpina.
The Swiss's piece or bafon is on the other fide
of the orangery, and may be call'd rather a lake
or fifh-pond than a baſon. At the other fide of
it ftands an equeſtrian ſtatue of Marcus Curtius, by
Bernin. On the right of this baſon you fee
F 3
the
The Swiss's
bafon.
102
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDe
the mall, one of the fineſt in the kingdom. The
kitchin-garden is very large, and divided into thir-
ty-four gardens, feparated by walls; each garden
The laby- has a baſon of water and a green-houſe.
The
rinth.
The royal
inland.
The colonade
The mena-
gery.
labyrinth is a number of walks going into one
another, and furrounded with pallifades. At every
turn you meet a fountain, adorned with a baſon
of fhells, like a grotto, where fome choice fables
of Eſop are beautifully repreſented. The grove
of the ball-hall is ornamented with a fine caſcade,
and an amphitheatre, containing feveral green-
feats that of the Girandole contains a Faunus,
copied from an antique, with feveral other ſtatues.
The royal-ifland is a great piece of water,
ornaed with feveral ftatues, among which are a
great many antiques. The hall des Maroniers is
ornamented with ſeveral ancient bufts, and has two
neat baſons at each end. Juft by is the Colon-
nade, a magnificent piece after the manner of a
circle, form'd by thirty-two pillars of fine marble,
which join one another by arches. In the mid-
dle is an excellent group by Girardon, repre-
fenting the rape of Proferpina. Towards the
middle of the great canal there is another that
croffes it, at one end of which is the menagery,
and at the other the beautiful little palace of Tri-
anon.
The menagery is a fmall caftle built by the fa-
mous Manfard, and principally defigned to bring up
animals of the rareft kind: it has feveral large and
magnificent apartments, where the late dutchefs
of Burgundy uſed to retire frequently to tafte the
pleaſures of folitude and a country life. The fum-
mer-apartment confifts of five divifions or cham-
bers, four of which are elegantly painted, and the
fifth magnificently furnish'd. The winter-apart-
ment confifts of the fame number of chambers,
painted and adorned: thefe apartments are fepa-
rated
through FRANCE.
103
rated by an octagon-hall, and illuminated by feven
large windows. All round this great piece there is
an iron balcony which jets forwards, from whence
you may fee ſeven different courts full of exotic
animals and curious Birds: underneath is a
grotto, with a fine water-fpout. From the me-
nagery there are feveral alleys that lead to the
royal and magnificent abbey of the Nuns of S. Abby of S.
Cyr, of the order of S. Benedict. It is fituated in Cyr.
the park, about three Miles from Verſailles, and
was founded by Lewis XIV. for the education of
250 young ladies; and built by the famous archi-
teet Manfard.
TRIANON.
and gardens
The palace of Trianon is at the other end of The palace
the canal, which croffes oppofite the menagery. of Trianon.
This little palace may be look'd upon as a kind of
fummer-houſe to the gardens of Verſailles, and is
equal to the latter in ftructure and ornaments,
tho' inferior in bigness: it is fituated at the en-
trance of a wood, and was built by Manfard.
The front is only fixty-four fathoms; the court is
adorned in the forepart by a fine periftile, and fup-
ported by pillars and pilafters of marble. The two
wings of the building end with two pavilions, and the
top is adorned with a baluftrade, along which are fta-
tues, baſkets, urns, &c. The great hall has a fine
picture of the rape of Orithya over the chimney.
The king's apartment contains fome choice pictures,
and magnificent furniture. The apartment of
the late duke of Burgundy (the prefent king's fa-
ther) is to the left as you come in, and adorn'd
with a table of porphyry of great price, befides
feveral fine pictures; among the reft an ad-
mirable one of S. John the Evangelift, by Le Brun.
The gallery is very beautifully adorned, and from
F 4
thence
104
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Marli.
thence you have a delightful profpect of the moſt
remarkable things in the gardens of Versailles.
The gardens of Trianon are very fine, being dif-
pofed in the greatest harmony and order. The
bafons are well diftributed, and adorn'd with
choice groves round them. The ftatues, urns,
and other imbelliſhments are likewife perfectly well
difpofed. Above all you muſt remark the caſcade,
and the group of Laocoon, which was carved from
the original by Baptift Tuby. The grove of En-
celadus, the grove of the domes, the grove call'd
the mountain of water, the bafon of Flora, the
groves made in the form of a ftar, and a dolphin,
the baſon of Ceres, the bagnio of Apollo, the the-
atre of water, the three fountains, are all of them
moft delightful places. In thefe gardens you find
ſeveral antient ſtatues, and a great many other en-
tertaining curiofities.
MARLI.
Marli is a village fituated near the river Seine,
three miles from Verfailles and twelve from Paris.
Near this village Lewis XIV. built a magnificent
palace, in the middle of a large park, whither he
ufed frequently to retire from bufinefs. The pa-
lace is a lofty and pleaſant ſtructure, containing
one large pavilion and twelve little ones, viz. fix
on each fide. The principal pavilion confifts of
one great hall in the form of an octagon, which
you enter by four porches: this hall, whofe ar-
chitecture is in the Ionic order, is adorn'd with
feveral excellent pictures. The four porches are
embelliſh'd with marble tables, and a great
many pictures repreſenting the taking of the con-
quer'd towns, by Vandermeulen. The water-works
are very beautiful, being ſupplied from the ſame
refer-
through FRANCE.
105
refervoir that furniſhes Verfailles. The grand caf-
cade reſembles a river tumbling from a precipice;
the bafons below it are adorned with groups of
figures, and the gardens in general afford a vaft
variety of pleafing objects. But the greateſt curi-
ofity of Marli, is the admirable machine which
conveys the water from Marli to Verfailles, and is
look'd upon as the moft ftupendous thing of the
kind in the whole world. To give an idea of
this famous engine, we need only mention that it
raifes near fixty-two fathoms high the water it
furniſhes for all the ſpouts and bafons at Verſailles.
It was invented by the Chevalier de Ville, and is
faid to coft the king five-and-twenty thoufand
pounds fterling per Annum to keep it in repair.
MEUDON.
Meudon is a fmall town fix miles from Paris,
remarkable for a royal palace, where the late dau-
phin (the preſent king's grandfather) uſed com-
monly to refide. This palace ftands on an emi-
nence in the midft of a foreſt: it has a moſt
beautiful avenue that leads to it three quarters of
a mile in length; on the right is a convent, with
a pleaſant garden belonging to the Capuchins, and
on the left the vineyards of Meudon. At the en-
trance of the court of the palace there is a large pile
of building on the right, and another on the left,
which open in form of a femicircle, but are dif-
joined from the body of the houſe. In the mid-
dle of the front is a lofty advanc'd building with a
portico, which you enter by three doors. Above
it runs an order of architecture, confifting of
arches and pillars finely defigned, and above them
anoti.er order, accompanied with pilafters. The
wings are not fo high as the principal building,
F 5
and
Meudon
106
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Madrid.
and each of them is terminated by a fquare pa-
vilion. The infide of this palace was adorned
with the richeſt furniture, and a fine collection of
ftatues, paintings, medals, and other antiquities,
which were removed upon the death of the late
dauphin, and great part of them fent to his fon Phi-
lip, king of Spain. The front towards the garden
confifts likewiſe of a lofty advanc'd building, with
wings confiderably lower, which terminate on
the right and left, with two pavilions of the fame
height with the body of the building. The gar-
dens of this palace are much admired for their fine
walks, parterres, canals, and water-works. Ad-
joining to the gardens there is a fpacious park,
furrounded with a brick wall, and adorned with
woods, bafons, and refervoirs of water.
The
woods are cut through and divided by beautiful
ridings, among which there is one call'd by the
name of the Dauphin, which leads to the gates of
Paris.
MADRID.
Madrid is another royal palace, fituate at a lit-
tle diſtance from Paris, and built by Francis I.
who is faid to have given it this name, becauſe
being obliged by a treaty with Charles V. when
priſoner at Madrid, to come and pay his ran-
fom in that city, he carried the money to this
palace, pretending by this equivocation to have
fulfill'd his treaty. This palace has the river
Seine on one fide, and a wood on the other; it
confifts of one large pile of building of three ftories.
befides the ground-floor, and is flanked by two
grand pavilions; but it feems now to be quite ne-
glected, being neither finished nor furnished.:
FONTAINE-
→
2
through FRANCE.
107
FONTAINEBLEAU.
Fontainebleau is a fmall town of the Gatinois, in Fontainebleau
the Ifle of France, fo call'd becauſe of its fine
waters: it is fituated in the middle of a foreft
three miles from the river Seine, twelve from the
town of Melun, and forty-two from Paris. There
are only three or four ftreets in the town (all fill'd
with public inns) which terminate in the caſtle.
The French kings have chofen this for a hunting-
feat, by reaſon of its fituation proper for that di-
verfion. The caftle or palace contains fome mag-
nificent piles of building, yet it is a very irregular
piece, having been built at feveral times without
any order or fymmetry. The old palace was firft
built by Lewis VII. in 1137, but improved by
Francis I. Henry IV. and chiefly by Lewis XIV.
As you approach the palace, you pafs thro' the The old pa
court of offices to come to the court of the old
caftle, known by the name of Donjon, and built
by Francis I. Here you fee the front of the great
gate of the draw-bridge, fupported by ſeveral mar-
ble pillars, and fome ornamental ftatues. The
architecture of this old caftle is much eſteem'd.
Round the court there are a great many fmall tur-
rets and galleries; but the greateſt curiofity of
this part of the building is a ſmall cabinet adorned
with fome beautiful pictures, and a chapel whofe
cieling is admired for its workmanſhip.
lace.
lace.
From the old caftle you pafs on to the court of The new pa
fountains, which is adorned with a great many
fine braſs and marble ftatues, and a bafon where
there are feveral ftatues fpouting water. This
court anfwers to three fides of a building which
form another palace, fo that there are four caftles
or palaces, and as many gardens in Fontainebleau.
This here is most esteem'd for the beauty of its
apartments and galleries. The gallery of the ftags
F 6
is
108
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
is a hundred paces long, and runs all along the
orangery it is enrich'd with paintings reprefent-
ing all the royal palaces, and the finest country-
The galleries feats in France. Thefe palaces are feparated from
one another by very large horns of ftags that have
been kill'd in this foreft. Near this gallery you
fee another finall one, where Henry IV. is beau-
tifully repreſented with all his court in their hunt-
ing equipage. Above is the queen's gallery,
adorn'd with ſeveral pictures repreſenting the vic-
tories of the latter kings of France. From this
gallery you paſs to the cabinet of Clorinda, en-
rich'd with beautiful paintings, containing the
hiſtory of Tancred and Clorinda.
The royal a
From this cabinet you proceed to the queen's
partments, apartment, remarkable for its cieling and
gildings afterwards you pafs thro' the queen's
bed-chamber to come to the king's apartment;
which is adorned with fome very good paintings,
particularly focunda, and a queen of Sicily, by
Leonardo da Vinci, and Michael Angelo's picture
drawn by himſelf. From thence you paſs to the gal-
lery of Francis I. where there are ſeveral paintings
repreſenting the hiftory of this prince, but the fref-
coes are now very much damaged. The little
cabinet towards the pool-garden is enrich'd with
fome exquifite paintings; and the cieling is admir'd
for the elegant taste of the carving and gilding.
Next you muſt fee the gallery of the antients,
adorned with the reprefentation of feveral pieces
of antient hiftory, which are fomewhat effaced.
Thence you defcend by the great ftair-cafe, which
faces the court of the white horfe, to fee the royal
The chapel. chapel, which is call'd the church of the Trinity,
and belongs to the Matharin friars. The paintings
of this church are by Freminet, a famous Parifian
painter: the high altar is richly adorned, the
cieling beautifully gilded, and the pavement of the
fineſt
through FRANCE.
109.
fineft marble. On a wing of the court of the
white-horſe is the gallery of Diana, or of the la-
bours of Ulyffes, where the hiftory of this hero is
painted beautifully in frefco by Primaticio.
After the apartments you muſt fee the gardens, The gardens.
where the orangery is moft deferving of your at-
tention. Among feveral brafs ftatues in the middle
of a large baſon, you ſee a Diana ſtopping a ſtag by
the horns, ſurrounded by four hounds; a Hercules;
a ferpent between two children; and a Cleopatra.
The pool-garden is ſurrounded with ſeveral canals,
where there are very large fish, eſpecially carp.
This pool is bordered with beautiful alleys, in the
middle of which is an octagon cabinet. Next you
proceed to the pine-garden, and thence to the par-
terre of the great garden, where there is a moſt
beautiful profpect of the caftle. In the middle is
a large baſon, in which there rifes an aquatic
rock, which pours out its waters in a moſt won-
derful manner. To the right of this parterre you
fee a piece of water level with the ground, in the
middle of which is a moft beautiful ftatue of
Apollo. The grotts and caſcades are next to this
parterre at the entrance of the park, which is di-
vided in the middle by a large canal. The walks
along the alleys of this park are moſt delightful,
being incloſed with paliffades of a furprizing height,
and extending further than your eyes can reach.
The foreft of Fontainebleau was antiently called
the foreft of Bievre, and contains upwards of fix-
and-twenty thoufand acres; it is of a round form,
and the palace ftands in the centre.
;
S. CLOUD.
S. Cloud is a fmall town of the Iſle of France,
pleaſantly fituated upon the river Seine, about fix s. Clouds
miles
1
110
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
miles west of Paris.
This town was erected into
a dutchy and peerage in 1674 by Lewis XIV.
when Francis de Harlay, archbishop of Paris, and
his fucceffors, were created perpetual dukes and
The town. peers of France, with the title of S. Cloud. It is
a very antient place, and was originally call'd No-
gent, which name it changed to honour the me-
mory of Clodoald or Cloud, third fon of Clodomir
king of Orleans, and brother of Clovis II. They
have a collegiate church in this town, where they
preferve the relics of S. Cloud, and the heart of
Henry IV. who was kill'd here in 1589 by James
Clement, a dominican friar. They have likewife a
very good manufacture of earthen-ware, and a
ſtone bridge over the Seine confifting of fourteen
arches. This town is much frequented by the
citizens of Paris, who come hither by water
on fundays and holidays to divert themfelves.
The palace.
But the principal curiofity of S. Cloud is the pa-
lace belonging to the duke of Orleans, which for
fituation, waters, woods, architecture, fculpture,
and paintings, is reckon'd one of the fineſt in
the kingdom. It is fituated at the fide of a
mountain, at the foot of which the river Seine
pleaſantly glides. The avenue to the palace is
upon the declivity of the hill, adorned with three
fine walks of trees, having the town on the right,
and the park on the left. This avenue terminates
at the baſe court, from whence you proceed to the
great court at one of the angles, becauſe of the
irregularity of the ground. The palace confifts
of a large advanced building in the middle of the
front, and two wings, each of them flank'd with
a pavilion. The apartments are extremely mag-
nificent, and richly furniſh'd; the paintings ef-
pecially are vastly admir'd, being reckon'd Mig-
nard's beft pieces. Before you enter the guard-
hall you may ſee the billiard-room on the right,
the
through FRANCE.
III
the cieling of which is moſt beautifully adorned
with paintings and gildings. The great hall before
the gallery is remarkable for the amours of Mars
and Venus, repreſented in ſeveral beautiful pictures.
The famous gallery of Apollo and its two halls,
from whence there is a fine profpect of Paris and
the adjacent country, is decorated with every thing
that can render a place charming and pleaſant.
The moſt admired pictures in this gallery are the
royal palaces and caftles, the birth of Apollo and
Diana, the fun iffuing out of his palace, the Ze-
phyrs fhedding the morning dew, Aurora in her
chariot with Cupid ftrewing flowers before her,
and eſpecially the four feafons, which are exqui-
fitely drawn. Towards the left of the further end of
this gallery, there is a ſmall hall, adorn'd with a ciel-
ing elegantly painted. The great cabinet is enrich'd
with an infinite number of fingular and valuable
curiofities, collected with great care and expence,
and ranged with the greateſt order and tafte. The
chapel is ſmall but very beautiful.
art.
The gardens are diſpoſed with a great deal of
Their fituation is quite charming; for the
river Seine running clofe under them, forms a
beautiful and large canal, which waters a long
terrace, planted with rows of trees. Theſe
gardens are embelliſh'd with groves, faloons, ba-
fons, water-works, and eſpecially with grand caf-
cades. The upper gardens are very ſpacious: on
the top of the hill there are feveral large pieces of
water, diftributed into ſpouts and fheafs, and di-
verfified in feveral manners. The park is almoſt
twelve miles in circumference. The orangery, the
labyrinths, and the bafons have each their particular
merit; but the greateſt beauty of all are the two
admirable caſcades, which are reckon'd a mafter-
piece in their kind, and very well deferve a tra-
veller's attention.
RE-
The gardens,
112
The TRAVELLER'S GUID e
Poix.
Beauvais,
Remarkable Places in the Coach-Route from
Paris to Calais.
The only remarkable places in this route that
differ from thofe in the poft-route, are Poix and
Beauvais, the reft being inconfiderable villages.
I. POIX.
Poix is a ſmall town of middle Picardy, fituated
on the river Somme, about five miles north-weſt
from Conty. It has the title of a principality, but
contains nothing worthy of a particular de-
ſcription.
II. BEAUVAIS.
Beauvais is a city of the Isle of France, and ca-
pital of the Beauvaifis, in E. longitude 2: 20,
lat. 49 30. It is fituated on the river Therin,
and is a place of great antiquity, being the Bello-
vacum and Cæfaromagus of the Romans, under
whom it made a confiderable figure. 'Tis memo-
rable alfo for the defence it made againſt the En-
glish in 1443, when they were obliged to raiſe
the fiege; as was alfo Charles Duke of Burgundy
in 1472, when the women fignaliz'd their cou-
rage under the conduct of that brave amazon Joan
Hatchet, whofe picture they preſerve in the town-
houfe. In memory of this action the women are
allow'd to walk before the men in the annual pro-
ceffion of the tenth of July. It is now a hand-
fome, large town, furrounded with walls and deep
broad ditches, but of no great ſtrength, being com-
manded by the neighbouring mountains. "Tis
the fee of a bifhop, fuffragan of Rheims, who is
the first count and ecclefiaftical peer of France,
and
·
through FRANCE.
113
and has a yearly revenue of fifty thouſand livres.
The cathedral church of S. Peter is a noble ftruc-
ture, has eight dignitaries and forty canons: there
are likewife fix collegiate churches and three ab-
beys in the town. The market-place is thought
to be the fineft in the kingdom: the inha-
bitants have a very good trade in cloth, ftuffs,
and fine potter's ware. The adjacent country
abounds with good wine, corn, fruits of all forts,
and produces the beft mutton in France. There
are a great many villages and noble families in the
neighbourhood, which makes it a very pleaſant
place to live in.
CHA P. III.
Journey from Paris to Italy.
HOSE that intend to travel from Paris to
Italy muſt ſet out for Lyons, to which city
there are three different routes, viz. two poft-roads,
and a third uſed by the Diligence. Again, there
are four different routes from Lyons to Italy; the
firſt and pleaſanteſt, but longeſt about, is by Mar-
feilles and Toulon, at either of which places there
are daily opportunities of veffels going to Genoa;
but if you don't like the fea, you may proceed by
the poſt-route from Aix to Nice, and thence by
land to Genca, or any other part of Italy: the ſe-
cond fomewhat fhorter, by Geneva and Swiffer-
land: the third ftill fhorter, by Grenoble and Eri-
ançon and the fourth as fhort as the preceding,
by Pont Beauvoifin. The Diligence from Paris to
Lyons fets out every other day from the Hotel de
Sens, near the Ave Maria; the price to each paſ-
fenger ſeventy-five livres. For your baggage you
•
pay
114
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
pay five fols a-pound, except twenty-five pounds,
which you have free. There are likewife coaches
at the fame place that fet out every third day at
four in the morning, and winter and fummer go
through Burgundy. You have alfo water car-
riages from Paris to Lyons; the fare to each paſ-
fenger is thirty-five livres, and you are ten days
upon the road.
The first route from Paris to Lyons.
PARIS
Ville-fuif
Fromenteau
Pofts.
Poft royal.
Efonne
Pontchierry
Chailly
I 플
​Iz
I
mia mia ma
1 ½
FONTAINBLEAU
I
Bouron
I
NEMOURS
I
Glandelle
I
Croifiere
I
Fontenay
I
Puy la Laude
I
MONTARGIS
I
Commodité
1/1/
Nogent
I
Bezards
I
La Buffiere
I
Belair
I
BRIARE
Ouffon
I
I
Bony
Neuvy
La Selle
COSNE
I
I
I
I
Maltaverne
I
Pouilly
I
Meuve
through FRANCE.
115
Meuves
LA CHARITE
Barbeloup
Pougues
NEVERS
Magni
Villars
S. PIERRE LE MONTIER
Chatenai
Villeneuve
La Perche
MOULINS
Sanne
Beſſay
Efchirolles
Varennes
S. Geran
La Palice
Droiturier
S. Martin d'Eftreaux
Pacaudiere
La Fringale
ROANE
I
I
I
I
플
​I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I 플
​1 /1/2/
L'Hopital
S. Simphorien
La Fontaine
TARARE
La Croifette
I
---
I
I플
​1½
I
La Brefle
La Tour
I
11/1/0
1 Poft royal
LYONS
In all fixty-three poſts and a half.
The
116
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The Second poft route from Paris to Lyons,
by the way of Dijon in Burgundy.
You follow the preceding route as far as Fon-
tainbleau, where you turn off towards Burgundy.
FONTAINBLEAU
Pofts
MORET
I플
​Fauffart
Iz
Villeneuve la Guiarre
Pont fur Yonne
SENS
Villeneuve le Roy
Ville-Vallier
JOIGNY
I
11/
बात बात बात
1/1/1
I 플
​I
I
Bafon
플
​AUXERRE
1 1/1
Frey
2
Licheres
I
NOYERS
I 플
​Sauvigné
Aixey fous Rougemont
(in a chaife
Montbard
I
I
플
​I
I
Eringe
f
Villeneuve
Chanceaux
SAINT SEINE
(in a chaife
Val de Suzon
(in a chaife
DIJON
(in a chaiſe
Genvry
NUITS
BEAUNE
Chaigny
I
1 1/2
I
It
I
I
1
2.
I
1
2
2 ~
-2
I
1 Z
I
1/12
H/M 2
HALON
through FRA N˚C E.
117
****རྙན་སྐན་
CHALON
Senneçay
TOURNUS
S. Albin
MACON
Maifon blanche
Belleville
VILLEFRANCHE
2 27
I
21
I플
​Les Echelles
La Chaux
LYONS
I
I
Poſt Royal
In all fifty-feven poſts and a half.
The third route from Paris to Lyons, by the
Diligence.
D. Signifies the place where you dine, S. where
you fup.
3
PARIS
CHARENTON
3
9 Villeneuve S. George 12
1/1/ Mongeron
Engliſh miles from one place to another.
132
I
7½ Lieur faint
21
D.
9
MELUN
30
6
Le Chatelet
36
6 Valence
42
6
MORET
6 Fauſſart
6 Villeneuve la Guiarre 60
48
54
I
2
41 Champigny
641
I
1
La Chapelle
66
1 Vilmanoche
671
English miles from Paris
S.
11 Pont fur Yonne
69
6
S. Denis
3
SENS
3 La Maifon blanche 81
778
75
78
English
118
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
6 Villeneuve le Roy
87 1
4/ Armaux
911
1 Villevalier
93
3
Vilfien
96
D.
3
JOIGNY
99
9 Balfou
108
3
Regende
III
6
AUXERRE
117
6 Saint Bry
121
6
Cravant
127
S.
3
Vermenton
130
Engliſh miles from one place to another.
6
Serfy le Sec
136
6
Lucy le Bris
142
3
Velly
145
1
Souvigny le Bois
1461
4
Cuffy les forges
151
6
Rouvray
157
D. 3
La Roche emberlin 160
6
Cheritan
166
3
Saulieu
169
9
Manpas
178
4 Pouché
182/1/1
2
1½ Joué
184
S.
3 Arney-le Duc
187
4½ La Canche
1911/1
4½ Yury
6
La Rochepot
196
202
3
S. Aubin
¿
205
3 Chagny
208
6
Saint Fargeux
214
D. 3
CHALON
217
11 Drou
2182/
7½ Senesé
226
6 Tournus
232
7
Montblet
239/2/1
4 Mouche
2
244
S. 4
1
MACON
24812 J
I
English
Engliſh miles from Paris.
through FRANCE.
119
Engliſh miles from one
place to another
6 Creche
254/1/
4 La Maiſon blanche 259
12 Villefranche
4 // Ence
3 Les Efchelles
271
275/1/1
2781
4 Le Marechal
283
42 LYONS
2872
Engliſh miles from
Paris.
The first route from Lyons to Italy, by way
of Marſeilles, Toulon, and the county of
Nice.
LYONS
S. Fons
Pofts
Poft royal
S. Saphorin
VIENNE
Auberive
Peage de Rouffillon
S. Rambert
I
I
I
ΙΣ
I
I
S. Valier
플
​Thein
I플
​Sillart
I
VALENCE
I
Paillaffe
I
L'Auriol
Laine
I
MONTELIMART
I
Douzere
1 ½
Pierrelatte
I
I
La Palu
ORANGE
Chateauneuf
AVIGNON
S. Andeol
Orgon
Pont Royal
S. Canat
Aix
2/1/1
lea
2
I
M/
11/1
I
- 2 1
Hlez mlek
1 1/
플
​2
Here
120
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Here you may either proceed to Marſeilles and
Toulon; or turn off to the left, and fo directly to
Nice.
Route from Aix to Marfeilles and Toulon.
AIX
Pin
MARSEILLES
Aubagne
Bois de Conil
Bauffet
TOULON
Pofts
2
I
2
I
I
1 1/1/20
Forty-two pofts and a half from Lyons to Toulon.
Route from Aix to Nice.
AIX
Rouffet
Porcioux
Tournes
21
جات
يماس
1 1/
Pofts
Brignolles
La Cabaffe
Luc
Vidauban
Muy
FREJUS
Leftrel
Canes
ANTIBES
Loup
NICE
I
I
I
I
I
1 /1/1
la mla mla mia
1 1/4
I
I
Fifty-one pofts from Lyons to Nice.
2
The
through FRANCE.
121
The fecond route from Lyons to Italy, by the
way of Geneva.
LYONS
Mirebel
Montluel
Pofts
1½
I
Meneftroit
Cormos
S. Jean le vieux
Cerdon
I
I
I
I
S. Martin du Frefne
I
Nantua
I
S. Germain le Joux
I
Chatillon
I
Coulonge
2
Pougny
I
Saconay near Geneva
I
Fifteen pofts from Lyons to Geneva.
The third route from Lyons to Italy, by Gre-
noble and Briançon.
LYONS
Bron
Pofts
Poſt royal
I
S. Laurent
Verpilliere
BOURGOIN
Eclofe
(in a chaiſe
La Frette
Rives
Voreſpe
I
I플
​플
​2)
2
I
I
1 1/
GRENOBLE
Twelve pofts from Lyons to Grenoble.
VOL. IV.
G
Lions
At
122
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
At Grenoble the poft road ends, by reaſon of
the mountains; wherefore you muſt hire horſes,
to carry you to Bourg d'Oisans, which is 27
miles from Grenoble, and from thence you pro-
ceed in the fame manner to Briançon, which is
27 miles from Bourg d'Oisans. From Briançon
you go to Pignerol, the first town in Piedmont.
The fourth route from Lyons to Italy, by
Pont de Beauvoifin and Savoy.
This route is the fame as the preceding as far
as Burgoin, where you break off to the left, to
take the road of Savoy.
,
Burgoin
Vacheres
La Tour du Pin
Gas
Pont de Beauvoifin
Pofts
I
I
I
I
Eight pofts and a half from Lyons to Pont de
Beauvoifin.
This is the laft town of France on the fron-
tiers of Savoy, from whence you must proceed
to Montmelian, and thence by S. John de Mauri-
enne and Sufa to Turin, according to the route
pointed out in the fifth chapter of the third vo-
lume of this work, p. 168.
Remarkable places in the first route from Paris
to Lyons,
In this route you meet with nothing worth de-
fcription, till you come to Fountainbleau, remar-
kable for the royal palace, which has been de-
fcribed
1
1
through FRANCE.
123
fcribed in the preceding chapter, p. 107. The
next place worth notice is
I. NEMOURS.
Nemours is a city of the ifle of France, in the Nemours.
district of Gatinois, in eaft longitude 2. 45. lati-
tude 48. 17. It is fituated between two hills, on
the river Loing, and confifts principally of one
large ſtreet; where there is a market-place, and
the old priory of Malta, which is likewife the
parish church of the town, and dedicated to S.
Peter. In this priory they pretend to have part
of the upper jaw of S. John the Baptift, brought
from Jerufalem by Lewis VII. The town is on
this fide of the Loing, which you paſs on a large
bridge, that gives its name to the fuburb on the
other fide of the river. They have a caſtle on
the banks of the Loing, with feveral high round
towers, which ferve for prifons. This city was
erected into a dutchy in 1404, and gave title to
the illuftrious houfe of Nemours, but has returned
to the crown fince the death of the laſt dutchess,
who was princefs of Neufchatel. Without the
town there is a nunnery of the Ciftercian order,
called Our Lady of Joy, where you may fee the
tomb of the ancient counts of Nemours. There
are likewiſe two other handfome convents, one of
the nuns of S. Mary, and the other of Recollect
friars.
II. MONTARGIS.
Montargis is a city of France in the province Montargis
of Orleanois, and territory of Gatinois, in eaft lon-
gitude 2. 45. latitude 48. It is the capital of
the Gatinois, pleaſantly fituated on the Loing, not
far from the place where the canal of Orleans falls
into this river. The town is not large, but hav-
ing been burnt down in 1528, it is handfomely.
G 2
rebuilt,
124
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Briare.
Cofne.
rebuilt, and has a caſtle fituated on a hill, which
commands the town and the neighbouring country.
The great hall of this caftle is very confiderable,
being 28 fathoms two feet long, and eight fathoms
four feet broad. The parish church, which is alfo
a collegiate church, is dedicated to S. Mary Mag-
dalen. They have two convents of men, one of
Recollects, and the other of Barnabites ; and four of
women, viz. the Benedictins, the Nuns of the
Vifitation, the Urfulines, and the Dominicans.
The town is called Montargis le Franc, becauſe
of its privileges, being the feat of an election,
bailiwic, and provoftſhip.
III. BRIARE.
Briare is a town of France, in the government
of Orleanois, and diftrict of Gatinois; in eaft
longitude 2. 45. latitude 47. 40. fituated on the
river Loire. It has nothing confiderable in itſelf,
confifting only of one long ſtreet filled with inns,
and fmith's fhops, by reafon of its being the great
thoroughfare to Lyons. But it gives name to the
famous canal which joins the Loire and the Seine,
by means of the Loing. This canal was begun
under Henry IV. and finifhed under Lewis XIII,
by the care of Cardinal Richlieu. It extends
thirty three miles in length to Montargis, from
whence another of fifty four miles has been dug
to Orleans, which together with the Loire, form
an irregular polygon.
IV. COSNE.
Cofne is a town of France in the government
of Orleanois, and province of Nivernois, fituated
on the banks of the little river Noaym, not
far from the Loire, in a fruitful and pleaſant
country. It is furrounded with ditches, but very
indifferently built, moft of the ſtreets being fo
narrow
through FRANCE.
125
narrow and winding as to refemble a labyrinth.
We muſt except however the avenues of the
market-place, which are pretty ſpacious, and
much the agreeableft part of the town. The
ſuburbs are almoſt equal to it in bignefs, and
much fuperior in beauty; that which is called by
the name of Lyons, is feparated from the town
by the little river, incloſed likewife with walls,
and has a long handſome ſtreet. Cofne is fe-
parated from Berry by the Loire, and has a very
good trade in cutlers ware, and founding of
cannon.
V. LA CHARITE.
La Charité is a town of France in the govern- La Charité.
ment of Orleanois, and territory of Nivernois, fi-
tuated on the declivity of a pleafant hill near the
Loire, over which it has a ſtone bridge. It is half
way between Lyons and Paris, and had its name
from the liberality of the monks of Cluny to poor
pilgrims and ftrangers who paffed this way. There
is a priory here of the abovementioned order,
which has the lordship of the town, both as to
temporals and fpirituals. The church belonging
to the priory, is dedicated to our Lady, and has
ftill fome remains of its ancient beauty. The
choir and refectory of the monks deſerve your
curiofity, the former has fome curious reprefen-
tations of animals in Mofaic work. As you go
out of the church you fee a chapel dedicated to
S. Radegonde, and much frequented by pilgrims.
There are fome good houfes in the town, together
with a large market-place, moſt of which is co-
vered by the public hall. The inhabitants are
famous for glafs-work, in which they carry on a
pretty good trade.
G 3
VI. NEVERS.
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The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Nevers.
VI. NEVERS.
Nevers is the capital of the Nivernois, in the
kingdom of France, and government of Orleanois,
in eaſt longitude 3. 15. -latitude 46. 50. fituate on
the river Loire, which here receives the little ri-
ver Nieure, from whence this city derives its
name. It is a place of great antiquity, fuppofed
to be Cæfar's Noviodunum in Eduis, where he
erected magazines for his armies. Francis I.
made it a dutchy and peerage, in 1521, in favour
of Francis of Cleve, to whom it came by marriage.
It devolved afterwards to the houfe of Mantua,
and then to the Palatine family, who in 1651
fold it to Cardinal Mazarin. The cardinal ob-
tained a title of duke and peer for his nephew
Philip Mancini, in whofe family it ftill continues.
The town is fortified with walls, defended with
many high towers and deep ditches, and is
the feat of a bishopric, fuffragan of Sens, as
likewife of a bailiwic and chamber of accounts.
There is a ftone-bridge on the Loire, with
twenty arches, a draw-bridge on each fide,
and towers to defend them. The cathedral is de-
dicated to S. Cyr, and has a ſteeple containing
many emboffed figures of ftone on the outfide.
There are eleven parishes in the town, and a
great many convents and abbeys, among which
the moſt confiderable are thofe of the monks of
S. Martin, the Auguftinians, the abbey of our
Lady, the Benedictin nuns, the Minims, the Do-
micans, and the priory" of S. Saviour. The Je-
fuits college near the gate des Ardeliers is a hand-
fome ftructure. The palace of the dukes of Ne-
vers has a large front between two great towers,
with a court on one fide, and a garden on the other.
Here it was that John Cafimir king of Poland
died the 16th of December 1672. Near this
palace
through FRANCE.
127
palace ftands the convent of cordeliers, who have
a magnificent church, in which the tombs of Duke
John, and Catharine of Bourbon, on the right;
and thoſe of Lewis of Gonzaga duke of Nevers,
and Henrietta of Cleves his wife, merit your at-
tention. This town is famous for its glafs-manu-
facture, and earthen-ware; the former is in the
high ſtreet, and the latter is fabricated near the
priory of S. Saviour.
VII. S. PIERRE LE MONTIER.
S. Pierre le Montier is a town of France, in S. Pierre le
the government of Orleanois, and diftrict of Ni- Montier.
vernois, fituated between the Allier and the Loire,
about half way between Nevers and Moulins.
The town is fmall, though noted for a prefidial
court, on which Nevers depends. There is a
very confiderable priory here, of the order of S.
Benedict; the prior is lord of part of the town;
and even the church of S. Babille, which is the
fecond parish, depends on this priory, half of the
church ferving for the parochial duties, and the
other half for the monks to fing their office.
VIII. MOULINS.
Moulins is a city of France, and capital of Moul**.
the Bourbonois, in the government of Lionnois,
in eat longitude 3. 16. latitude 40. 33. It is
fituated in the middle of a beautiful plain, on
the Allier, which here receives the little river
Daune. The improvements it has received of
late years are fo confiderable, as
confiderable, as to render
it one of the handfomeft and richeft cities in
France. The town is walled and defended with
towers, of no great extent itſelf, but has large
fuburbs. In general it is well-built, and much
frequented by people of quality, being furround-
ed with trees, and called the paradife of the coun-
G 4
try.
?
128
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
try. The ancient dukes of Bourbon made this
place their ordinary refidence, where they built a
noble caftle, which is ftill admired for its beauty.
It is built of a free ftone, has fome very good
paintings, and is fituated on an eminence, from
whence there is a beautiful profpect of the river, the
town, and the adjacent country. The Palais or court
of juftice is a new building, where there is a prefi-
dial, which depends on the parliament of Paris.
The generality of Moulins confifts of nine elec-
tions; but in fpirituals the town depends on the
biſhop of Autuns. The great church dedicated to
our Lady, is reckoned a handſome ſtructure; and
fo is the church of S. Peter. The Carthufian
monaſtery out of the town, has rather the ap-
pearance of a palace than of a habitation of
hermits; the church, the cloyfters, and the gardens
are particularly worth feeing. There are feveral
other churches and convents of men and women,
but the most curious is that of the nuns of the vi-
fitation, whofe church is adorned with fine marble,
and handſome paintings. Among other curiofi-
ties in this church you must not forget the mag-
nificent tomb of the great duke of Montmorency,
who fell a facrifice to the refentment of Cardinal
Richlieu, and had his head cut off at Toulouse,
the 30th of October 1632. This monument was
erected by his dutchefs, and is defervedly admired
both for materials and art. The figures at the
four corners reprefent Mars, Pallas, Magni-
ficence, and Liberality; and on the top there are
two angels, who fupport the urn in which the
duke's heart is depofited; his body is interred in
the Jefuits church at Toulouse. This town is
famous for its medicinal waters, which are much
of the fame nature as thoſe of the Bath and Aix
la Chapelle. The fuburb of Allier is filled with
cutlers, whofe work is vafly efteemed, and brings
a
through FRANCE.
129
a confiderable trade to the town. The inhabi-
tants are faid enjoy great privileges, to be very
courteous, and ſpeak good French.
IX. ROANE.
Roane is a town of France in the government Roane,
of Lionois, and territory of Forez, in eaft longi-
tude 4. latitude 46. fituate on the Loire, where
this river begins to be navigable.
It is the capi-
tal of a ſmall diſtrict called the Roanois, and was
made a dutchy by Charles IX. The conveniency
of its fituation on a navigable river, whereby
goods may be brought by water from Lyons, which
is only thirty-fix miles diftant, has rendered it a
very flourishing place. There are a great many
rich merchants here, who have feveral beautiful
houſes; the principal ones may be feen in paffing
through the high ftreet, which is the best part
of the town. The Jefuits have a handſome col-
lege, which, as well as the churches of the Ca-
puchins and Minims are deferving of a traveller's
curiofity,
You may embark at Roane to defcend the
Loire, in covered boats called Cabanes, to Or-
leans, Tours, Angers, and even as far as Nantes,
where you can arrive much quicker than by land,
unleſs you happen to have a quite contrary wind.
X. TARAR E.
Tarare is a ſmall town of the Lyonois, very Tarare.
much taken notice of by travellers, becauſe of its
high mountain, three miles long, and extremely
difficult to pafs. You defcend as far as the village
of La Fountaine, and then you afcend by a very
rugged road and through a great wood till you
come to Tarare.
G5
XI.
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The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Lyons.
XI. LYONS.
Lyons is the capital of the Lyonois in the king-
dom of France, fituated at the confluence of the
rivers Rhone and Soane, in eaft longitude 4. 55.
Antiquity. latitude 45. 50. It is a place of great antiquity,
whofe origin is varioufly reported, but the moft
probable opinion fuppofes it to have been at firſt
a colony, fettled there in the time of Auguftus,
by Lucius Minucius Plancus, the Roman governor
of that country. Its fituation in the middle of
Europe, and on two fine navigable rivers, the
beauty likewife of its buildings and walks, the
greatnefs of its commerce and manufactures, the
many privileges it enjoys, being the capital of the
government of Lyonois, the feat of an archbishop
primate of Gaul, as alfo of a prefidial, a genera-
lity, a fenefchal's jurifdiction, and a chamber of
money or mint; all this together renders it the
fecond city of this great and flouriſhing king-
Situation,
dom.
Lyons is divided as it were, into two towns by
the Saone, which runs through the middle. It
takes up the declivity of two hills, and the level
ground between thefe hills and the rivers Rhone
and Savne. Of theſe two parts one was former-
ly called the kingdom fide, and the other the
fide of the empire. For the civil government, it
is divided into, thirty-five wards, each of which
has its proper officer. The town is encompaffed
with large fuburbs, and has an old ftrong caſtle
cut out of a rock, and therefore called Pierre-.
Cize, where ftate-prifoners are kept.
The
hills, and the natural temper of the climate,
make it very warm in the fummer, in fo much
that the windows are generally of oiled paper,
which keeps out the heat better than glafs, but
Eniluings, takes off from the beauty of the buildings. The
ftreets
through FRANCE.
131
!
ſtreets are narrow, but the houſes very high,
and of a white-ftone, like our Portland. The
principal ſtreets are Rue de l'Hopital, de la
Grenette, du Bois, de Flandre, de S. Jean, & la
rue Merciere, the laſt inhabited principally by
bookfellers. There is a ftone bridge over the Bridges.
Rhone, and three handfome bridges, one of them
ftone, over the Saone; that over the Rhone has
twenty large arches, and is 260 fathoms long;
in the middle of it there is a crofs, which divides
the Lyonois from the Dauphiné. The town has
fix gates, as many great fquares, four fuburbs,
feventeen parish churches, fifteen monafteries,
and upwards of 100,000 inhabitants.
tain.
dral,
To take a furvey of the curiofities of this The Cathe-
city you must begin with the cathedral, which
is dedicated to S. John Baptiſt, and ſtands in the
low part of the town near the river Saone, hav-
ing a great fquare before it, adorned with a foun-
It is eſteemed one of the beſt ſtructures in
France, though very plain, and without orna-
ments, and was built on the ruins of an ancient
temple, dedicated to Auguftus, and founded by
John king of Burgundy. The archbishop, as
we have already obferved, is primate of Gaul,
who at preſent is the famous Cardinal Tencin.
The dean and canons take the title of counts,
muft prove their nobility by four defcents. Their
church-fervice is fomewhat different from that of
other places in France; they must fay it all by
heart in Gregorian fong, and without organs.
The cupboard near the altar is reckoned a curious
piece, confifting of two ancient fragments, one of
marble, very well wrought, and the other in the
Gothic tafte. The clock on the right fide of the
choir is eſteemed a moft curious piece of me-
chaniſm, and was made by Lippus a mathema-
tician of Bafil. The chapel of Bourbon, though
G 6
in
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The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Other
churches and
Convents.
in the Gothic tafte is worth feeing; it was built
by Cardinal Bourbon archbishop of Lyons, who
lies here interred in a marble tomb, and who
built likewiſe the archiepifcopal palace. This
church is celebrated alfo for a great number of relics,
which are preferved here with great veneration.
Next to the cathedral comes the collegiate
church of S. Paul, which was built by faint Sa-
cerdos towards the middle of the fixth century,
and is remarkable for a very ancient tomb of count
Richard. Oppofite to S. Paul is the church of
S. Laurence, rebuilt by meffieurs Mafcranni, where
you may fee the tomb of the famous Gerſon chan-
cellor of the univerfity of Paris. The church of
S. Irenæus is very ancient; here there is a chapel
and a well, in which they preferve the relics of a
great number of martyrs. At the entrance of
the church there is a fine piece of Mofaic, with
eight verfes expreffing the death and number of
thofe martyrs. The collegiate church of S.
Just is very rich; it ftands near the church.
of the Minims, who have a handfome con-
vent. S. Nifier is a parochial and collegiate
church, and was formerly the cathedral; the
great gate is very curious, the infide is adorn-
ed with feveral large pictures, among the reft
one of the laſt judgment painted in fresco. In
the fubterraneous chapel of this church, S. Pho-
tinus is faid to have affembled the primitive Chri-
flians in time of perfecution. The Domini
can church in the Place Confort is worth feeing,
becauſe of a very valuable picture of S. Thomas
the apoſtle, by Salviati, and of the many mo-
numents of great men, who lie here interred.
The church of the Cordeliers was founded by
Charles VIII, and Anne of Britany. It is remark-
abl for a magnificent chapel, faid to have been
defigned by Michael Angelo, and fupported by
four
through FRANCE.
133
.
four great pillars of fine grey marble of one piece.
The altar-piece reprefents S. Francis, and was
drawn by Vanius. The church of the obfervant
friars is famous for the head of S. Bonaventure;
in the convent they fhew the room where he died,
which is converted into a chapel, and elegantly
painted by old Stella.
The Jefuits have three houfes at Lyons; two The Jefuits
of which are colleges, the little one is in the college.
quarter de Fourviere; and the great one below
the fquare de Terreaux. The latter is one of the
moft magnificent colleges in the kingdom, being
an excellent piece of modern and regular archi-
tecture, in the form of a perfect fquare. The
court is admired for its paintings, reprefenting
the arms of every province of France, and the en-
tire hiftory of the city of Lyons. The church is
a very handſome ſtructure, dedicated to the Holy
Trinity. The library is magnificently built in
the form of a T, at the expence of the family of
Villeroy. They have here a cabinet of medals and
other antiquities, as Roman and Egyptian idols,
unextinguiſhable lamps, talifmans, &c. collected
by Pere la Chaife. The chapel of the congrega
tion of this place is very rich.
The abbey of D'Aifnay without the town is Abbey of
one of the richeſt of the province. The church D'Aiſnày,
and cloyſters have nothing extraordinary in their
architecture, but are famous for ſeveral antiquities.
This was formerly the college called Athenæum,
erected for the improvement of the Greek and
Latin tongue by the emperor Caligula, who or-
dered fuch as were overcome when they con-
tended for the prize of eloquence, to be thrown
into the Rhone, which Juvenal alludes to by the
following verfe.
Aut
234
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The Car-
melites.
The Cartbu-
fians.
Aut Lugdunenfem Rhetor dicturus ad aram.
The church of D'Aifnay is built on the ruins.
of the ancient temple dedicated to Auguftus by
Lucius Munatius Plancus, at the conflux of the
Rhone and the Saone. The pillars, which ſupport
at preſent the roof of the choir, are fome of the
remains of that ancient edifice. It was confe-
crated about fix hundred years ago by pope Paf-
chal II, and at the bottom of the great altar, you
fee a Mofaic piece, reprefenting this pope with
the following verfe almoft defaced by time: Hanc
ædem facram Pafchalis papa dicavit. Under the
choir they fhew a fubterraneous chapel dedicated
to S. Photinus and S. Blandina. Over the gate
of the church there is a baffo relievo in marble, with
this inſcription Matri Augufte Philenus Egnatius
Medicus; which father Meneftrier in his hiftory
of the city of Lyons fuppofes to have been a votive
offering of the abovenamed phyſician, to the god-
defs Abundance, under the title of Mater Au-
gusta.
The Carmelites have two convents, one near
the Place de Terreaux, and the other in a very
agreeable fituation on the banks of the Seine,
where they have a terrafs from whence there is
a charming profpect: In the cloyfters there are
fome good paintings, and among the reſt the laſt
judgment, a very extraordinary piece, and well
coloured. Their chapel has an altar-piece all of
marble, curiouſly wrought. The Carthufians
have alſo a fine terrafs, from whence you have a
beautiful view of the town. Their refectory is
a handſome room, beautified with many curious
pieces of painting. Their cloyfters are very fpa-
cious, and in their gardens which lie on a decli-
vity, near the Saone, they have vineyards that
produce
through FRANCE.
135
produce excellent wine. The church called Our
Lady of Fourvier, was formerly a temple of Ve-
nus. The other churches and convents moft wor-
thy of notice are, the fathers of the oratory, the
Celeftins, the Recollects, the barefooted Car-
melites, the fathers of S. Antony, the nuns of the
Vifitation, the convent of S. Elizabeth, and the
Carmelite nuns, where the family of Villeroy
have their tomb in a beautiful chapel.
The town-houfe of Lyons is one of the moſt The town
magnificent and moſt regular buildings of that houſe.
kind in Europe; it ftands in the fquare des Ter-
raux, and is built all of white ftone in a quad-
rangular figure. The front is flanked with two
great ſquare pavilions, and adorned with a gilt
balcony, fupported by two beautiful columns
of porphyry in the Ionic order. Its principal en-
trance is embelliſhed with a great many fine pil-
lars, which form a fpacious and moft magnificent
portico. As you come into this portico, you ſee
the bufts of feveral French kings, and mounting
a few ſteps you may read on ancient tables of
brafs the harrangue pronounced by the emperor
Claudius, who was born in this city, to obtain
from the ſenate the right of Roman citizens for the
inhabitants of Lyons. The flair-cafe leading to
the apartments is eſteemed an accompliſhed work,
enriched with beautiful paintings repreſenting the
burning of Lyons under Nero, which is faid to
have happened by lightning. This ftair-cafe
leads to a magnificent hall, admired for its bigneſs
and paintings. From thence you go through a
little gallery into another hall, where you fee the
portraits of all the French kings that bore the
name of Lewis. The cieling is adorned with
fome good pieces of perſpective. Among feveral
others halls, you ought to fee that where the
provoft of the Marchands, and the Efchevins
affemble.
3
:
136
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
ries.
affemble. The different courts of juſtice are held
in this town-houfe, where they have each their
ſeparate chambers, and exerciſe their reſpective
jurifdiction. 'Tis here alfo the merchants meet,
to concert together about commercial affairs.
The hoſpital
The hoſpital for the fick is a very large edifice,
fituated along the Rhone, and confifting of a pa-
The work vilion in the middle of four great halls. The work-
houſe.
houſe, called the hofpital of charity is a noble
ftructure, confifting of nine courts, where 1500
The grana- poor people are conſtantly kept at work. The
granaries where they preferve their corn, are a large
pile of buildings, and much admired by ſtrangers.
The custom- The cuſtom-houſe ſtands on the great key, cloſe
to the river, where all the goods that come to
Lyons are vifited. Juft by, you may fee the filk-
mills, which are made in ſuch a manner, that a
fingle woman may turn one of them with eaſe
they are faſtened together, and one mule general-
The arfenal. ly turns feven or eight mills. They have an
arſenal likewife in this city, well furniſhed with
all neceflary implements of war.
houſe.
The filk-
mills.
The fquares.
The principal fquares of this city are Bellecourt,
now called Place de Louis le Grand, Place de Ter-
raux, and Place Confort. The fquare of Belle-
court is much the handfomeft, being adorned with
very good houſes, and a fine alley of trees, ter-
minating at one end with the Rhone, and the
other with the Saone. It has taken its new name
from an equeſtrian ſtatue of Lewis XIV, which
was caft at Paris after the model of Coizevox,
and ſtands in the middle of the ſquare. The two
marble figures on the pedeftal reprefenting the
Rhone and the Saone, were made at Paris by
Couftoux the elder. The fquare Des Terraux is
next in rank to Bellecourt; it is adorned with
a very beautiful fountain in the middle, and
with the royal nunnery of S. Peter on one fide,
and
through. FRANCE.
137
and the town-houſe on the other. In the Place
Confort, there is a triangular obelifk, erected in
honour of Henry IV. on which the name of God
is engraved in four and twenty languages.
and curiofities
Befides thofe already mentioned, there are a Antiquities
great many other remains of antiquity in the city
of Lyons. Near the gate of Vezé, they difcover'd
fome years ago an antient maufoleum, fupported
in the nature of an altar by four columns, and
whofe architecture feemed to be of the age of Au-
guftus. As there was no infcription found with it,
various opinions were handed about concerning
this tomb; but the moſt probable is that of father
Meneftrier, viz. That it was a monument in form
of a temple or altar, confecrated to the memory
of one of Auguftus's priefts, call'd Amandus, by
two of his freed men, whom he left his heirs.
This conjecture is fupported by an infcription
fomewhat to this purpofe, which is ftill preſerved
in the houſe of count de Chalmazel. The aque-
ducts of Mark Anthony, a Roman quæftor, and
friend of Julius Cæfar, are another curioſity worth
feeing. Thefe aqueducts are without the gates
of S. Just, and built entirely of fquare ftone.
Some years ago as they were digging in the neigh-
bourhood, they found part of the ruins of the
burning of Lyons under Nero, among the reft
two leaden pipes half melted, which diftributed
the water of the aqueducts. Theſe pipes are now
preferved in the cabinet of the jefuits college.
Near the mountain of S. fuft, in the vineyard
of the Urfuline nuns, there is a refervoir built by
the Romans, to preſerve the water of theſe aque-
ducts this refervoir is 45 feet long and 44 broad,
and the wall is three feet thick. In the iſle of S.
Barbe there are feveral confiderable ruins, and
among the reft fome low-relieves of tombs in a
very good taſte: one of them repreſents the four
feafons;
138
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Trade,
feafons; and another Bacchus, with the gods Sylvanus,
Pan, and Faunus. In the vineyard of Monfieur
Caffaire, as they were digging in 1676, they dif
cover'd the face of a wall lined with moſaic work;
but the workmen in endeavouring to clear away
the rubbiſh ſpoiled a great part of the figures. The
pavement however, which is 20 feet long and ten
broad, by good luck remained entire. It is com.
poſed all of mofaic, or of what the ancients call'd
Teffelatum, Sectile, or Vermiculatum Pavimentum.
The middle has a fquare three feet high and four
broad, repreſenting a group of four very ingenious
and emblematical figures. The other curiofities.
of Lyons are, the palace, the arſenal, the three
forts, viz. Pierre-Cize, (already mentioned) fort
S. John, and fort S. Clair, the houfe des Anti-
quailles, the ftatue of Monf. de la Roche, La Claire
and La Duchere, two country-houſes without the
gate of Veſe, the high-roads of Agrippa, the an-
cient amphitheatre in the inclofure of the Minims,
the god Mithra, formerly adored at Lyons, and
now fhewn in the Hotel de Chevrieres, the nuns
of the imperial palace, with feveral others lefs re-
markable, and too tedious to mention.
The trade of Lyons is very confiderable, for
which it is advantageoufly fituated on the rivers
Rhone and Saone, and in the neighbourhood of
Swifferland, Italy, and Germany. The chief
branch of their commerce is in filks and rich ſtuffs;
their filk they have raw from Sicily, Naples,
Florence, and the other towns of Italy, as alfo from
Languedoc and Provence; and after they have ma-
nufactured it, they ſend it to moft parts of Europe.
In theſe manufactures they formerly employ'd
20,000 men, but at prefent not near fo many,
fince other nations have begun to fet up filk ma-
nufactures. They print likewife abundance of
books, with which they furniſh the mart of Frank-
fort and other parts of Europe. They have four
annual
through FRANCE.
139
:
annual fairs, with a great many immunities, as
alſo a confervator of their privileges, who deter-
mines diſputes among the merchants.
Their government was formerly by two confuls Civil govern
and ten efchevins; but Henry IV. reduced them ment.
to four, two of whom are chofen annually. The
provoſt of the merchants, or governor of the
town, is choſen once in two years. The captain
who commands the town guards, is named by the
provoft of the merchants, but receives his autho-
rity from the king, and has 200 muſketeers under
his command. Each ward has a captain beſides,
who carries the arms of the town in his colours.
tants.
The inhabitants of this city are induſtrious, and Character of
civil to ftrangers. They are reckon'd honeft in the Inhabi
their dealings, and do not want capacity, tho' a
great many imagine there is a little mixture of the
Swiss blood with tha; of the people of Lyons. The
women would be very handfome, were it not for
their lofing their hair and teeth fo foon, which
fome attribute to the frequent fogs that cover the
town. They are neat in their drefs, and inclin-
able a little to coquettry. The inhabitants in ge-
neral live well, the country round them being one
of the moit fruitful parts of France.
They have a great many handfome Inns at Public inns
Lyons, the principal of which are the Three Kings,
and The Dauphin. There are likewife feveral
good ordinaries, where you may dine very rea-
fonable; but they have none of thoſe mean cook
ſhops which at Paris are call'd Gargottes. Thoſe
that intend to make any ſtay, generally board with
their landlords, which is much the beſt way.
The ftage-coach from Lyons to Paris fets out from
the Rue de Flandre, every other day at four in the to Paris.
morning. You pay feventy-five livres for your
place, and five fols per pound for your baggage,
except twenty-five pounds which you have free.
Remarkable
Stage-coach
140
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Moret.
Remarkable places in the fecond route from
Paris to Lyons.
Sens.
This route is the fame as the preceding as far
as Fontainebleau, which has already been defcrib'd
in the ſecond chapter. Leaving Fontainebleau,
the first place you come to is
1. MORET.
Moret is a fmall town of the Ile of France, and
diſtrict of Gatinois, fituated at the confluence of
the rivers Seine and Loyng, in E. long. 2. 55. lat.
48. 22. It is furrounded with pretty good walls,
and has a very antient caftle, which has only one
fmall tower, covered with a terras.
The great
church dedicated to Our Lady, is a tolerable
building.
II. SENS.
Sens is a city of France, capital of the province.
of Senonois, in the government of Champain, in
in E. long. 3. 23. lat. 48. 6. It is a place of
great antiquity, known to the Romans by the name
of Senones, and Agendicum Senonum. The nar-
rowneſs and windings of the ftreets are likewiſe a
mark of its antiquity, which however does not
hinder it from being one of the largeſt and hand-
fomeft towns in France. It is pleaſantly fituated
in a fine plain on the rivers Yonne and Vanne, over
the first of which there is a large ftone bridge.
Moſt of the fireets are water'd with ftreams which
come from the little river Vanne. Towards the
fuburb of S. Paul this river divides itſelf into a
great many canals, and renders the country very
proper for gardening. This city is the feat of an
archbiſhop, who difputes the title of primate of
Gaul
through FRANCE.
147
Gaul and Germany with the archbishop of Lyons.
It has likewiſe a prefidial and a bailiwic, one of
the moſt ancient in France, which depends on
the parliament of Paris. The cathedral of S.
Stephen is a magnificent ftructure with two great
towers, and is equal in bigneſs to Notre Dame at
Paris, but better built. At the foot of the al-
tar there is a golden table enriched with precious
ftones, upon which are engraved in baffo relievo
the four evangelifts, with S. Steven on his knees
in the middle of them. The tombs of the Sal-
lezards, of the archbiſhop of Sens, and the biſhop
of Angouleme, are worth feeing, becauſe of the
marble figures, which are well done. The chapels
round the choir are very handfome; and the
windows are much admired for the paintings,
done by John Coufin a native of Sens. There
are fevera! abbeys and convents in this city; the
moſt conſiderable are the Jefuits college, and the
abbeys of S. John, S. Martin, S. Peter, S. Paul,
and S. Columba.
III. VILLENEUVE LE ROY,
Villeneuve le Roy is a fmall town of the diftrict Villeneuve la
of Senonois in Champagne, fituated on the river Roy.
Yonne, over which it has a bridge, but contains
nothing elſe remarkable.
IV. JOIGNY.
Foigny is a fmall town of France, in the govern-
ment of Champagne, and diftrict of Senonois, in
caft longitude 3. 28. latitude 47.55. It is plea-
fantly fituated by the banks of the river Yonne,
on the declivity of a hill, a fituation which ren-
ders it naturally ftrong. Its ftrength has been in-
creaſed by art, being furrounded with thick walls,
and large round towers The great church is a
handſome building; there is likewife a large ſquare
in
Foigny,
!
342
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Auxerre.
Noyers.
in the town, a good ftone bridge, and a caftle:
The junction of the river Armançon with the
Yonne, renders the neighbouring country very
fruitful, eſpecially in wine and pafturage, in
which its principal wealth confifts.
V. AUXERRE.
Auxerre is the capital of the diſtrict of Auxer-
rois in Burgundy, in eaft longitude 3. 35. lati-
tude 47. 40. It is fituated partly on a hill, part-
ly in a valley, and watered by the rivers Yonne,
which feparate Burgundy from the Nivernois.
The river brings fome trade to the town, which
is much frequented on other accounts, being a
great thorough-fare to the moſt confiderable places
in the kingdom, and moreover the feat of a pre-
fidial, bailiwic, election, and of a biſhop, fuffra-
gan of Sens. It is adorned with handſome ſquares,
and a great many fountains, and churches. The
cathedral of S. Stephen is a magnificent ftructure,
with a fine choir and a lofty tower. The bishop's
palace is likewiſe a handfome building. There
are a great many convents of men and women
within and without the town, befides a college of
Jefuits, and a commandery of the knights of
Malta. The epifcopal feminary is governed by
the fathers of S. Lazarus.
VI. NOYERS.
Noyers is a finall town of the diftrict of Au-
xois in Burgundy, fituated between two moun-
tains on the river Serain. It confifts only of
three ftreets, which terminate in the great fquare,
where there is a market-place, a covered hall, and
the church of our Lady, which is the only pa-
rifh. The fathers of the oratory have a hand-
fome houſe, with a little college, and a very neat
church.
through FRANCE.
143
7
church. Befides this, there are feveral other re-
ligious houſes in the town.
VII. SAINTE SEINE.
Sainte Seine is a borough of the dutchy of Sainte Seine.
Burgundy, remarkable for the fource of the river
Seine, which rifes in its neighbourhood, and like-
wife for a very confiderable abbey of the order
of S. Benedict.
VIII. DIJON.
Dijon is the capital of the dutchy of Burgundy, Dion.!
in the kingdom of France, in eaſt longitude 5. 5.
latitude 47. 15. It is fituated between two ſmall Situation
rivers which furround it, viz. the Ouche and
the Suzon, at a ſmall diſtance from the two
hills of Talan and Fontaines, where S. Bernard
was born, and at the entrance of a vaſt plain,
which extends upwards of twenty-four miles to-
wards the fouth. It is a town of great antiquity,
faid to have been founded by the emperor Au-
relian, who gave it the name of Divio or Divi-
onum, to appease the Gods for having deftroyed
a town where Hercules and fome other heathen
Deities were worshipped. It is now one of the
moft confiderable cities in the kingdom, being
the feat of a parliament, appointed by Lewis XI,
in 1477, as alfo of a prefidial, a chamber of ac-
counts, a court of money, and a generality. The
city is large and well built; the ftreets well paved, Buildings.
wide, ftrait, and lightfome; the latter is owing
to the lowness of the houſes, among which there
are a great many handfome buildings. It is fur-
rounded with ſtrong walls and deep ditches, and
fortified with twelve baftions. There are four
gates; cloſe to that which goes by the name of
William, ftands the caftle, built by Lewis XI,
and
144
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Churches.
and fortified with four large round towers, and
two ravelins. Without the gate of Ouche, there
is a fine alley of trees, which carries you to
Beaune. As you go out of S. Peter's gate you
fee the courſe, almoft a mile long, and planted
with four rows of trees, which lead you to a
great park, embelliſhed with parterres and laby-
rinths, and terminated by a terraſs on the banks
of the Ouche, over which is a bridge that com-
municates with the caſtle of Colombiere.
There are feven parochial churches in Dijon.
That of S. Michael is remarkable for the beauty
of its gate, adorned with fculptures. The front
of Notre Dame is very handfome, and principally
noted for its clock. The church of S. John is
obfervable for having no pillars to fupport the
roof. There are two abbeys of men; that of
S. Stephen is of canon regulars; and the other
of S. Benignus is of the order of S. Benedict.
Behind the choir of S. Benignus, there is a very
ancient building of a round figure, fupported by
a hundred and four pillars, and lightened only
from the top, which is fuppofed to have been a
heathen temple dedicated to all the Gods, like
the Pantheon at Rome. It is now converted into
a Chriftian church, and much refpected be-
cauſe of the Chriftian martyrs who are faid
to have been buried in this place. There are
two abbeys alfo of nuns, one of Benedictins, and
the other of Bernardins. The church called the
holy chapel is remarkable for a hoft, which is
faid to have ſhed blood upon being pierced with a
knife by a Jew; and for the efcutcheons of the
knights of the order of the Golden Fleece, which
are painted in the choir. The Jefuits have
a fine college, and a good library. Their
church is very elegantly adorned, particularly
with a rich tabernacle, an antipendium or hang-
in
through FRANCE.
145
ing to put before the altar, with feveral relic-
cafes, all of maffive gold. The Carthufian mo-
naftery without the town is one of the richeſt
and handſomeft in France; their choir is remark-
able for two beautiful marble tombs of Philip the
Bold and John his fon, both dukes of Burgundy.
The knights of Malta have a commandery in
Dijon, where there is alfo a vaft number of other
religious houſes of both fexes, a houfe likewife
for penitent courtefans, a feminary for young ec-
clefiaftics; and three large hoſpitals, one for or-
phans, another for indigent travellers, and a third
for poor fick people.
Near the holy chapel is an ancient palace, in Other publie
which the dukes of Burgundy formerly refided, buildings.
and where the governor of the province, when
he comes to Dijon, is ufed to lodge. Part of it
has been lately repaired, and a new magnificent
hall added to it, where the ftates of the dutchy
of Burgundy hold their affemblies. There is a
handſome ſquare with piazzas before this palace,
and in the middle an equeftrian ftatue of Lewis
XIV, made of brafs at Paris by Le Hongre.
Befides this ſquare there are feveral others in the
town, which contribute very much to its em-
belliſhment. The palace or court where the par-
liament of Dijon affembles, was built by Lewis
XII, in 1511, and contains feveral handfome
halls; among the reft that of the academy is re-
markable for its beautiful ceiling.
The town- Civil gov.
houſe is an old building that contains nothing ment.
worth notice. The magiftracy confifts of fix
efchivins and a mayor, who is always prefident.
of the third eſtate of the province, and takes the
title of Viſcount-mayor. They have a militia,
confifting of 3000 men, and divided into feven
companies. As there are feven parishes, which
are the feven quarters of the town, every
VOL. IV.
company
H
146
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Nuits.
Beaune.
company has a captain, a lieutenant, and an en-
fign. About a mile from Dijon is the little town
of Talon, where the dukes of Burgundy once re-
fided; it ftill enjoys fome of its ancient pri-
vileges, becauſe the mayor precedes thofe of the
other towns of the provinces in the affembly of
the ftates.
IX. NUITS.
Nuits is a fmall town of the dutchy of Bur-
gundy, fituated in a plain on the brook called
Mufin, about half way between Dijon and Beaune.
It is furrounded with walls and ditches, and has
the title of a bailiwic, with a court ſubject to that of
Dijon. And yet it confifts only of one large ſtreet,
which is filled with nothing hardly but coopers,
becauſe of the great quantity of wine that grows
in the neighbourhood. Thefe wines and thofe of
Beaune are eſteemed the beft in Burgundy.
X. BEAUNE.
Beaune is a city of Burgundy in France, in eaft
longitude 4. 50. latitude 47. it is fituated in
one of the pleaſanteſt and moſt fruitful parts of
the kingdom, between Autun, Chalons, and Di-
jon. The town is neatly built, and was former-
ly the refidence of the dukes of Burgundy, and
the feat of the chief tribunal of the country be
fore it was transferred to Dijon; but it has ftill
a chancery and a bailiwic. The collegiate church
of our Lady is reckoned one of the most famous
in France, being ferved by thirty canons, who
are primitive curates, as they call them, of the
town and ſuburbs. The great altar is adorned
with a table, enriched with diamonds, a prefent
of the dukes of Burgundy. The work on which
the organ is fixed, is admired as a curious piece
of architecture. The other churches are S. Peter,
S.
through FRANCE.
147
S. Martin, and S. Mary Magdalen. There are
likewife feveral convents of religious orders, the
principal of which is that of the Carthufians, whoſe
church is a modern building, adorned with hand-
ſome ſtatues and pictures. The hofpital of Beaune
is reckoned one of the best buildings of the kind in
France, and was founded by Rollin chancellor of
Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy. The wines.
in the diftrict of Beaune, are eſteemed all over
Europe; the moit exquifite are thoſe of Volnet,
Mulfant, and Pommard.
Not far from Beaune, and in the territory of The abbey of
this city, is the famous abbey of Citeaux, where Citeaux.
the general of the Ciftercian order refides. It had
its name from a great number of cifterns dug
there under-ground, and was founded by Otho I.
duke of Burgundy in 1098. The church and
refectory are the greatest curiofities in the abbey.
The abbot is a member of the ftates, counsellor of
the parliament of Burgundy, and has a great num-
ber of the adjacent villages under his jurifdiction.
XI. CHALONS.
Chalons (commonly called Chalons fur Sacne,
to diftinguish it from a town in Champagne, named
Chalons fur Marne) is the capital of the territo-
ry of Chalons in the dutchy of Burgundy, in
eaft longitude 5. latitude 46. 40. This is a
place of great antiquity, as appears from feveral
ftatues, infcriptions, and the ruins of an am-
phitheatre. It is very agreeably fituated on the
river Saone, in a large fruitful plain, furround-
ed by a wall, and defended by a caftle. The
Saone forms an iſland in the town, which has a
bridge of wood and another of ftone, over the
different branches of the river. It is divided into
the old and new town; the latter inclofes the for-
H 2
mer,
Chalons.
3
ì
148
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Tournus.
Macon.
mer, which confifts only of three long ftreets-be-
ginning at the ftone-bridge and ending at the gate
of Beaune. In the middle ftreet, which is the.
largeſt, you may fee the palace of the bailiwic,
a modern building fituated near the river. Cha-
lons is likewife the feat of a bifhop, who is fuffra-
gan of Lyons. The cathedral dedicated to S.
Vincent has only its antiquity to recommend it,
and ſome monuments of the ancient counts of
Chalons. The town houſe, the prince's palace,
the Jefuits college, the commandery of S. Stephen
and S. John, the abbey of S. Peter, the Carmelites,
the Cordeliers, the Dominicans, are the other
principal places worth feeing. The governor's
palace is in the citadel; the walk to it is very
agreeable, and the elevation of the place affords
a moft delightful profpect.
XII. TOURNUS.
Tournus is a ſmall town of the diſtrict of Macon-
nois, in the dutchy of Burgundy, fituated on the
right bank of the river Saone. It is a very ancient
place, fuppofed by feveral to have been a maga-
zine for the Roman armies in thofe quarters, by
whom it was called Trinurcium. The town is
of an oblong figure, and contains a collegiate
church, two parishes, a convent of Recollects,
and another of Benedictins. The adjacent coun-
try is one of the pleaſanteſt and moſt fruitful parts
of all Burgundy.
XIII. MACON.
Macon is the capital of the diftri&t of Ma-
connois in the dutchy of Burgundy, in eaft longi-
tude 4. 55. latitude 46. 22. This is a very
ancient town, being noted in Cafar's time for
making of arrows, and had formerly counts of its
own,
through FRANCE.
149
own, but after feveral revolutions came to the
crown of France. It is fituated on the declivity
of a hill, on the weft ſide of the river Saone, over
which there is a fine ftone bridge, which joins it
to the fuburb of S. Laurence, where there are two
ftately towers. The town is divided into nine
quarters, extending itſelf in the form of a crefcent,
and containing about fix thouſand people. The
freets are narrow and ill-paved, and there are
fcarce any fquares or open places. It is the feat
of a bishop fuffragan of Lyons, as alſo of a pre-
fidial, and a governor, who is the king's lieu-
tenant. The cathedral, dedicated to S. Vincent, is
a dark old building, faid to have been founded by
king Dagobert, and remarkable only for the tombs
of its bifhops. The epifcopal palace, fituated in the
fquare of the old caftle, is reckoned a handſome
building. The other churches are the collegiate
and parochial church of S. Peter, whofe canons.
muſt be of noble extraction, S. Stephen, the Cor-
deliers, the Capuchins, the Dominicans, the Car-
melites, the commandery of S. John, beſides a
handſome college of Jefuits. The wines of Ma-
con are in great eſteem all over France. Thoſe
who have leiſure may go from hence to fee the
city of Bourg in Breſſe, fituated on the other fide
of the Saone, about fifteen miles from Macon.
The church of our Lady in Bourg is reckoned a
moit elegant piece of Gothic architecture.
XIV. VILLEFRANCHE.
Villefranche is the capital of the diftrict of Beau-
joiois, in the government of Lyonois, in France,
in east longitude 4. 45. latitude 46. It is a very
pretty town, fituate on the Morgon, which falls
into the Same about three miles lower down.
There is particularly one very handfome ftreet,
Bourg
Villefranche.
H 3
fo
150
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
fo broad that it ſeems to be only one great ſquare-
in its whole extent, which is from one end of the
town to the other. This ftreet has a handſome
fountain in the middle, from whence you may
eaſily ſee the two gates of the town, which was
a frontier place, when Breffe belonged to the
duke of Savoy. It is fortified with good walls,.
and deep ditches, has a collegiate church, an aca-
demy, an election, a bailiwic, and a magazine of
falt.
Thoſe who have a mind to fee the principality
of Dombes, muft pafs the Saone, before they
Trevoux, came to Villefranche, in order to go to Trevoux
the capital. This principality belongs to the duke
of Maine, and has a parliament which is held at
Trevoux. Here there is a handfome college of Jefuits,
who are famous for their journal of arts and fci-
ences, and their dictionary fo well known by the
name of Trevoux.
Charenton,
Remarkable places in the third route, by the
Diligence from Paris to Lyons.
There is very little difference between this and
the preceding route, moft of the great towns
being the fame, except that you leave Di-
jon to the left, to take the fhorteft cut to Chalons..
Some of the villages and little towns indeed are:
different, wherefore we fhall give here a curfory.
view of thofe places, and the nature of the roads
you go through, omitting whatever relates to the
large towns, which the reader will find defcribed
in the preceding route.
Setting out from Paris the first place you come
to is Charenton, a fmall town in the ifle of
France, fituate a little above Paris, at the con-
flux of the Seine and Marne, in eaſt longitude 2.
39..
through FRANCE.
151
30. latitude 48. 45. It was remarkable for a
handſome church, where the Proteftants of Paris
performed their worſhip before the revocation of
the edict of Nants in 1685, when it was rafed to
the ground, and a nunnery erected in 1703 in
the fame place. The road from Paris as far as
Mongeron is through a fine level country. At
Villeneuve S. George you change horſes. From
Mingeron to Lieur faint you go through the foreft
of Senar. At Lieurfaint you change horſes, and
from thence you travel through a plain and two
little woods, one on the right and the other on
the left, till you come to Melun, where the
coach ftops to dine.
Melun is a town of the ifle of France, fituate Meluns
on the river Seine in eaſt longitude 2. 45. latitude
48. 30. It is a place of great antiquity, fuppofed
to be the Melodunum of Cæfar. In form and
fituation it exactly refembles Paris, the river
Seine forming an iſland in the middle, and divid-
ing it into three parts, which have a communi-
cation by bridges. It is fortified with a caftle,
encompaffed with large fuburbs, and has the title
of a viſcounty. There are feveral handfome
churches in the town, an abbey dedicated to S.
Peter, and fome other religious houſes. Here
are likewiſe the ruins of an ancient temple dedi-
cated to the Goddeſs Ifis. The inhabitants have
a good trade in corn, flower, wine, and cheefe,
which they fend to Paris by the river Seine.
From Melun to Moret (a town deſcribed in the
preceding route) the road is through heaths,
thickets, and the foreft of Fountainebleau, except
about a mile and half of champain country, as
you come out of Melun. Towards Valence, there
is a wood called the wood of Valence. From
Moret to Fouffard, you pafs through a valley;
the reſt of the road as far as Auxerre, is all through
H 4
152
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
a fine plain. At Pont fur Yonne the coach fets up
for all night. The next morning you fet out
early and paſs through Sens, a city already de-
ſcribed in the preceding route. At Maiſon blanche
you change horfes, and from thence you come
to Villeneuve le Roy, defcribed alfo in the pre-
ceding route. You change horfes again at Ville-
valier, and dine at Joigny, a town of Champagne,
deſcribed in the preceding route. At Baffoi, Re-
gende, and Auxerre, you change horfes. Auxerre,
is the first town of Burgundy, fituate on the con-
fines of that province, and already defcribed in
the preceding route.
From Auxerre to Vermenton you continually
mount and deſcend, the country being very un-
even. At S. Bry you change horfes, and lye at
Vermenton. The next morning you fet out early,
and in the way to Serfy le Sec you go through a
little wood, which is reckoned very dangerous,
and fo is the wood on the other fide of Serfy le
Sec. From Lucy le Bois to Souvigny you pafs
through another wood, which is no way danger-
ous. Between Souvigny and Cuffy, there is a great
pool furrounded with woods, called the pool of
Tobias, which is reckoned a very dangerous place.
At Cuffy you change horfes, and between that
place and La Roche Emberlin, you paſs through
the woods of Empoignepain, otherwife called La
Grurie, where you must be upon your guard.
At La Roche the coach tops to dine; and from
thence to Saulieu the road is all through woods
and thickets, till you come within a mile of
Saulieu, where you change horfes. Near Maupas,
there are two places, one called le petit bras de fer,
and the other la maison de champs, whofe paffage
is reckoned dangerous. From Maupas to Arnay
le Duc, it is all a good road, except through the
Wood
through FRANCE.
153
wood of foué. At Pouché you change horſes,
and ſet up for all night at Arnay le Duc.
Duc.
Arnay le Duc is a fmall town of the dutchy of Arnay le
Burgundy, in the district of Auxois, at the head
of the Arroux, and one of the feats of the bailiff
of Auxois. From hence you fet out early and.
go through Canche; from this last place to
Yury, the road is through roads and thickets. At
Yury you change horfes, and are obliged to have
a relais of ten, becauſe of the bad road from
hence to Rochepot, where you paſs through the
great bog called de la Fiole. From Rochepot to
S. Aubin, the road is very narrow all through
vineyards, as alfo from S. Aubin to Chagny. At
Chagny you change horfer, and from thence to
Chalons the road is through woods which take the
name of Chagny. At faint Fargeux you fee the
end of the foreſt of Beauregard, which has forty
five miles in circumference.
At Chalons, a city deſcribed already in the
preceding route, the coach ftops to dine. From
thence to Seneſe the road is through a wood
called la Grole. Between Senefé and Tournus
there is a great heath. Tournus has been already
deſcribed in the preceding route; from hence you
proceed to Macon, defcribed likewife in the fame
place, and there the coach fets up for all night.
From Macon to Maifon Blanche the road is very
narrow. Near Maison Blanche you pafs through
a valley, and thence you come to a large heath.
From Villefranche to Lyons the road is good, ex-
cept through fome thickets towards Efchelles and
Le Marechal.
f
H 5
Remarkable
#54
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Vienne,
Remarkable places in the first route from
Lyons to Italy, by Marfeilles and Tou-
lon.
From Lyons you may go down as far as Avig-
non by water; for there are boats that defcend
the Rhone almoſt every day, and move with great.
expedition on this rapid river. Travelling by
land you come to S. Saphorin, a ſmall town about
feven miles diftant from Vienne, and famous for its
poſt-affes, which go from hence to Lyons, and:
perform their ſtages as well as horfes, but will.
not be driven an inch farther by any means what-
ever. Proceeding hence the first place of note
you come to is
I. VIENNE.
Vienne is the capital of the territory of Viennois,
in the government of Dauphiné in France, in eaft
longitude 4. 44. latitude 45. 35. This is one
of the most ancient towns in Europe; fuppofed to
have been founded by the Allobroges, who made it
their capital. It was afterwards the firft of the
Roman conquefts on this fide of the Alps, and the
metropolis of Galia Narbonenfis fecunda. Julius
Cæfar refided here a confiderable time, and made
it his magazine for provifions and arms.
As a
proof of its antiquity, there are ftill the remains of
an amphitheatre, the walls of a palace, and fome
other Roman buildings. By the ruins of the walls
it appears to have been larger by three parts at
leaft than at prefent. However, it is ftill a flouriſh-
ing city, being the capital of the lower Dauphiné,
and the feat of an archbishopric, bailiwic, and
prefidial, which depends on the parliament of
Grenoble.
through FRANCE.
155
•
un-
In
Grenoble. It is fituated on the Rhone, and co-
vered by high mountains, which confine it to the
banks of that river. This fituation is not very
pleaſant; and befides the streets are narrow,
even, and ill-paved.. On the other hand the
neighbouring fields on the fide of Avignon,
and the banks of the Rhone, are exceeding beau-
tiful. It is about five miles in circumference, in-
cluding a mountain on which were two ftrong
caſtles in the time of the Romans, now called
Pipet & la Bafiere, and of which there are ſtill
fome confiderable remains. The little river
Guerre, which falls from the rocks between theſe
two caſtles into the Rhone, divides the town into
two unequal parts that communicate with one a-
nother, by means of two bridges. The fmalleft.
includes the priory of S. Martin, and the church
of S. Severus, adorned with a fquare tower.
the other part, at the foot of the caſtle of Pipet,
there is a convent of Capuchins, and a handſome
college of Jefuits. Defcending from thence thro'
fome very narrow streets, you fee a chapel called
Our Lady of Life, which is faid to have been
the Prætorium of Pilate, governor of this town.
Over the door there is a ftone-ball with this in-
fcription, Hoc eft pomum fceptri Pilati. They
pretend likewife to fhew the houſe where Pon-
tius Pilate lived during his exile, (for he is faid to
have been banithed hither by Tiberius) the tower
where he was impriſoned, and the lake where he
is reported to have drowned himself. The cathe-
dral dedicated to S. Maurice is a magnificent
Gothic ftructure, and ftands upon an eminence to,
which you afcend by upwards of twenty fteps.
It has neither hangings nor pictures, but is quite
plain, like that of S. John at Lyons. The walls
of the cloyiter are built of pieces of figured co-
lumns, which are fuppofed to be the remains of
H 6
an
156
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
...
Tournon,
an ancient amphitheatre. There are likewife
feven pariſhes in Vienne, two collegiate churches,
and feveral religious houfes of men and women; the
two collegiate churches of S. Peter and S. Stephen,
and the Benedictin abbey of S. Andrew are the
moft worthy of notice. This city is famous for
feveral councils, as likewife for aboliſhing the
order of the Templars, and for the inftitution of
the feaſt of the facrament. The inhabitants
have a very confiderable trade in paper, iron, and
fteel wares, but efpecially in fword-blades, the
water of the little river Guerre being ſaid to have
a particular virtue to perfect the temper of
fteel.
In you way from Vienne to Valence, you paſs
through S. Rambert, a fmall town of the Vien-
nois on the Rhone. Thence you proceed to S.
Valier, alſo a little town of the Viennois, pleafant-
ly fituated in the fruitfuleft part of the country.
Thence you come to Thein, a large town of the
fame district of Viennois, fituated on the river
Rhone. It is mentioned in Theodofius's maps by
the name of Tegna, and is remarkable chiefly
for that excellent wine, known by the name of
Hermitage.
Over against Thein, on the other fide of the
Rhone, ftands the little town of Tournon, in the
government of Languedoc, and territory of Vi-
varez, in eaft longitude 4. 45. latitude 44. 50.
It is fituated on the fide of a mountain, at the
bottom of which runs the Rhone. The most
remarkable building is the Jefuits college, which
was founded here by Cardinal Tournon in the
fixteenth century. The college is a handfome.
piece of modern architecture, very agreeably
fituated on the banks of the Rhone, and adorned
with a beautiful church and excellent library.
This town has feveral other monafteries as
likewife
through FRANCE.
157
likewife a caſtle, with the title of a county, be
longing to the family of Vantadour, and extends
its jurifdiction over feventy-two pariſhes.
II. VALENCE.
Valence is a city of France, and capital of Va- Valences
lentinois in Lower Dauphiné, in eaſt longitude 4.
50. latitude 45. It is a place of great antiquity,
faid to have been built by the Greeks, and after-
wards made a colony by the Romans, who gave
it the name of Valentia, becaufe of its ftrength.
'Tis now a large well built town, fituated on the
Rhone, a little below its confluence with the Ifere,
and the fee of a biſhop fuffragan of Vienne, who
has the title of a count, and is temporal lord of
the bailiwic. They have divided it into two
parts, the town and the borough; the latter
lies in a bottom watered with rivulets, and en-
clofed with double walls and ramparts. From
thence there is a gentle afcent to that part cal-
led the town, which is built on a ſmall platform,.
where the ſtreets are very narrow and winding.
The first remarkable place you meet here is the
abbey of S. Roff, the chief of the Canon Regulars;
which is a fine Gothic building. Proceeding a
little further you come to the market-place, called
La Pierre, or the ftone, becauſe the meaſures
made uſe of for corn are hollow ftones. From
this market-place you have a very beautiful pro-
fpect. A handfome wide ſtreet carries you to the
great fquare, where ftands the cathedral, a noble
ftructure, dedicated to S. Apollinaris. The
church of S. Peter and S. John are remarkabie
for their antiquity, particularly the church of S.
John, which was a Roman Pantheon. In the
abbey of S. Peter there is a cave which goes un-
der ground to the fields beyond the Rhone. In
the
258
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Montelimart.
the cloysters of the Dominican convent they
fhew the ſkeleton of a giant called Buardus, fix-
teen feet high. The high altar of the Francif-
can church is much efteemed. There are two
handfome fountains in the town, whofe conduits
are faid to have been built by Julius Gafar.
They have an univerfity here which was founded
in 1452, by Lewis then Dauphin of France, and
afterwards the eleventh French king of that name,
where the famous Cujas was profeffor. The
colleges have nothing very remarkable; that for
phyfic has a garden filled with fimples and
rare plants. The town has among other jurif-
dictions, that of a fenefchal, and a prefidial. The
neighbouring country is extremely pleaſant, the
hills lying about it in the form of a creſcent on
the one fide, and the Rhone with its beautiful.
meadows open to it on the other.
III. MONTELIMART.
Montelimart is a fmall town of Lower Dau-
phiné, fituated on the river Robian, about a mile
from the Rhone, in a fertile plain. There is a
citadel here which ftands on an eminence. Two
fmall rivers the Robian and the Dalron, which
waſh the town walls, fall down from the neigh-
bouring mountains, and lofe their waters in the
Rhane. The town is well built, and prety popu
lous, being a great thorough-fare to Catalonia,
Provence and Italy. The collegiate church is fub-
ject to the immediate jurifdiction of the fee of
Rome. They have feveral convents of men and
women, among which that of the Jefuits is moft
remarkable. The inhabitants declared very early
for the reformation, which was the occafion of
their having been great fufferers in the civil wars.
The
through FRANCE.
159
The neighbouring territory is noted for its ex-
cellent wine.
IV. PONT S. ESPRIT.
+
-
From Montelimar you may either go directly to PontS. Eſprit
Orange according to the poft route above given,
or when you are got to La Palu, you may from
thence go to Pont S. Efprit, to ſee the famous
bridge over the Rhone. Pont S. Efprit is a fmall
town of Languedoc, fix miles diftant from Palu,
fituated on the right bank of the river Rhone, in
in east longitude 4- 45. latitude 44. 20. The
ftreets are narrow, and the houſes indifferently
built. In the great fquare ftands the town-houſe,
noted for a very large clock. The parish church
of S. Saturnin, and the abbey of S Peter are in
this fquare; the fteeple of S. Saturnin is very re-
markable. There are feveral convents of men
and women, but they contain nothing worth par-
ticular notice. The ftone-bridge over the Rhone
is one of the fineſt in Europe, being eight hundred
and forty yards long, and five yards fixteen inches
wide, fuftained by twenty-fix arches. It is faid
to have been built by a monk, with the offerings
made by devout people, at a church or chapel de-
dicated to the Holy Ghoft, out of compaffion to
the misfortunes of fo many people who had been
drowned in the Rhone, which runs here with in-
credible rapidity. It was begun in the vear 1265,
and finiſhed about the year 1309. There is a
very good revenue for its fupport, arifing from
the contributions of devout people, which the
king has augmented by a duty laid on all falt that
paffes the bridge, amounting to eight or nine
thouſand livres per annum. They have a ftrong
citadel at the foot of it, confifting of four royal
baftions, this being a very important paſs.
From
160
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Orange.
From Pont S. Efprit you may take the follow-
ing route to Avignon, viz. from Pont S.Efprit to
Bagnol one poft. Bagnol is a ſmall town of Lan-
guedoc, fituated near the Rhone, and noted for its
excellent wine. From Bagnole to L'Artoise, one
poft; from L'Arteife to Roquemort, one poft;
from Roquemort to Avignon, one poft; or elfe
you may go from Pont S. Efprit to Orange, and
thence to Chateauneuf and Avignon.
V. ORANGE.
Orange is the capital of the principality of that
name in the province of Dauphiné, in eaſt longi-
tude 4. 46. latitude 44. 10. It is fituated in a
fine large plain, watered with a vaſt number of
little rivulets, on the eaſt fide of the river Rhone,
This town made a confiderable figure in the time
of the Romans, by whom it was called Aurofio
Cavarum, and Secundanorum Colonia, being the
garrifon of their fecond legion. They adorned it
with feveral buildings, whereof there are ftill
fome ruins left, particularly of an amphitheatre;
and a triumphal arch almoft intire, dedicated to
Marius. The town, together with the princi-
pality devolved by marriage to the princes of the
houfe of Naffau, in whofe poffeffion it continued
for many years. Maurice prince of Orange made
it a regular fortrefs, but the town and principa-
lity were feized by Lewis XIV, in 1660, and the
fortifications e tirely demolished. It was reftored
to king William by the treaty of Ryfwic, but after
his death old Lewis feized it again, and expelled
the Proteftant inhabitants. By the treaty of
Utrecht it was confirmed to the crown of France,
though the title is ftill retained by the houſe of
Naffau. It is now a bishop's fee, fuffragan of
Arles, and has a court of finances, a mint, and a
univerfity, founded by Raymond V. prince of
Orange,
through FRANCE.
161
Orange, in 1364. The principality is a very ſmall
diftrict, being twelve miles in length and nine in
breadth; the prince's revenue amounted to
about five thousand pounds per annum. The
country is pleafant, abounding with corn and
fruit, but liable to frequent winds.
VI. A VIGNON,
Avignon is a city of Provence in France, and Avignon,
capital of the county of Venailin, in east long.
4. 40. lat. 43. 50. fituated on the eaft fide of
the river Rhone. This is a very ancient city,
faid to have been founded by the Phocians, who
built Marſeilles. The Romans called it Avenio
Cavarum, and favoured it for its fidelity, with
great privileges. After a great many revolu
tions it came to the counts of Provence, and by
Jane queen of Naples and countefs of Provence,
then under age, was fold, together with the
county of Venaiffin to the pope, under whoſe
jurifdiction it ftill continues. Pope Clement V.
removed the pontifical fee hither in 1309, where
his fucceffors lived till 1371. 'Tis now a fine
large city, furrounded with a ftone wall, rather
beautiful than ftrong, and with ditches filled in
fome parts with water. Pope Sixtus V. made it
the fee of an archbiſhop, before which it was fuf-
fragan of Arles. It has fome ftately buildings,
and very agreeable avenues. The cathedral de-
dicated to the Virgin Mary is a noble ftructure
remarkable for its great altar, the tombs of feveral
popes and biſhops, and for the chapel of our
Lady, which is admirably well painted. The
treaſure of the Sacrifty is worth a traveller's cu-
riofity. The palace of the vice-legate was the re-
fidence of the pope, when the fee was at Avignon ;
the great hall is adorned with good paintings, s
alfo
162
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
alſo the chapel and the other apartments. Con- ·
tiguous to this palace is the arſenal which has no-
thing extraordinary. The little palace belonging
to the archbishop is a handſome ſtructure, from
whence there is a beautiful profpect of the town,
the Rhone, and the neighbouring country. There
are feveral convents of men and women, moſt
of which contain fomething remarkable. The
church of the Celestins is a magnificent building,
in which there is a picture of the carrying of the
crofs in Mofaic work, reckoned a mafter-piece in
its kind. The chapel of the black penitents at
the Austin friars, is adorned with excellent paint-
ings of Mignard of Avignon. Among other cu-
riofities in their church, you may fee the tomb
of Laura, whom Petrarch has immortalized by
his verſes. The Jefuits have two colleges both
of which are handfome buildings. The church of
S.Martial, belonging to the Benedictins, has feveral
fine marble tombs; and in that of S. Didier there
is a beautiful tomb of Cardinal Peter Damianus,
adorned with good marble flatues. It has been
obferved of this city, that it has feven gates,
feven pariſhes, feven palaces, feven colleges, feven
hofpitals, feven convents of men, seven of wo-
men, and that feven popes fucceffively refided
here feventy years. They have an univerfity,
which was founded in 1303, by Charles II. king
of Jerufalem and Sicily, and count of Provence.
There is alfo a court of inquifition, with a
mint, where money is coined with the pope's arms.
The civil government is adminiſtered by the vice-
legate, the rota, and the viguier: The viguier de-
termines fuits for fmall fums, without an appeal.
The confuls and their affeffors adminifter common
juftice. From thefe courts there lies an appeal
to the vice-legate, who refers them to the rota,
being his council, and compofed of five auditors;
and
through FRANCE.
163
and from this tribunal the parties may appeal to
Rome. The Jews who have a fynagogue here,
are obliged to wear a yellow hat, and the women
fomething yellow about their necks, to diftinguifh-
them from the other inhabitants. They are mi-
ferably poor, and deal chiefly in old cloaths. There
is a wooden bridge here upon the Rhone, which is
almoſt gone to ruin for want of repair. From
this bridge you fee a large ifland where the Sorgue
falls into the Rhone, and in which are feveral
country houſes. In the little borough of Ville-
neuve the other fide of the bridge, there is a hand-
fome convent of Carthufians, whofe church is
much admired for its paintings. Not far from
Avignon is the fountain of Vaucluse, where the
Sorgue has its fource, inclofed with hills and
mountains which form the valley of Vaclufe.
Here it was that the famous Petrarch fixed his-
Parafus, and compofed the moſt part of his
works in praife of the beautiful Laura, with whom
he fell in love in this very country.
VII. A 1 x.
Aix is the capital of Provence in France, in eaft dix
longitude 5. 25. latitude 43. 30. fituated in a
plain on the little river Arc, almoft furrounded
with fruitful hills, and watered with feveral
fountains. This city is faid to have been built by
Gaius Sextius Calvinus, a Roman conful, who
called it Sextia from his own name, to which.
he prefixed Aque becauſe of the hot baths and
other fprings in the neighbourhood; and from
Aquæ comes the corrupt French word Aix. 'Tis
now a large well built city, faid to refem-
ble Paris the moſt of any town in the kingdom,
for the beauty of its buildings, the politeness of
the inhabitants, fpacious fquares, and beautiful
fountains.
164
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
fountains. The houfes are ftately, the ftreets
broad, and adorned with handfome piazza'so
They have a parliament, which was fettled by
Lewis XII. in 1501; likewife a chamber of ac-
counts, a court of aids, a fenefchal's jurif-
diction, a generality, a mint, and an univerſity
founded by Alexander V. in 1409, and endowed
with the fame privileges as that of Paris. This
city is alfo the feat of an archbishop who is al-
ways chancellor of the univerfity. The cathe-
dral dedicated to S. Saviour is a fine Gothic build-
ings, remarkable for a beautiful font of marble,
and for a little chapel in which S. Mary Magdalen
is pretended to have died. The chapter of S.
Saviour is one of the moſt confiderable in France.
The fquare of the Dominicans is very beautiful;
here ftands the palace where the parliament and
courts of justice are held. In this palace there
is a chamber in which the kings of France are
painted on the ceiling, and in another the prefi-
dents, and counſellors adminiftring juftice. The
Jefuits church and college are handfome ftructures.
of modern architecture. The gentlemen's ora-
tory depends on the Jefuits, and is noted for ſeven
or eight large pictures drawn by the famous fcul-
ptor and painter Puget, and ſaid to equal thofe of
Sueur; particularly the altar-piece, repreſenting the
annunciation, is admired by connoiffeurs for its
compofition and the beauty of colouring. In the
fquare of Orbitello there is a Courſe confifting of
three fine walks of trees of a great length, with
elegant uniform buildings on each fide of it, and
embelliſhed with fountains. At the bottom of
this Courfe, towards the town, you fee a little
church, where there are two baffo relievo's of
white marble, one of which is of fingular beauty.
The town-houſe is a pretty good building, re-
markable for one of the fineſt clocks in France.
The
through FRANCE.
165
The market-place is large, and well fupplied
with provifion of all forts. There is only one
fuburb, called the Bourgade, in which they have
two convents, one of Minims, and the other of
Carthufians. In the city there is a great number
of religious houſes of men and women, and a
priory of the knights of Malta. The church
belonging to this priory is of royal foundation,
and remarkable for a magnificent tomb of Gothic
ftructure, in which Ildefonfus II. lies buried, to-
gether with Beranger III. count of Provence, and
Beatrix of Savoy his wife, who are both repre-
fented in ftatues. In another chapel there is a
noble monument of another Beatrix, alſo counteſs
of Provence, who was married to Charles I. king
of Naples, and S. Lewis's brother. The cabinet
of pictures, belonging to Monf. Aqueville, coun-
fellor of parliament, is well worth a travel-
ler's curiofity. The adjacent country is extreme-
ly fruitful and pleaſant; the women are hand-
fome, fing well, and love dancing and diver-
fions.
From Aix, as we obferved p. 120, you may
proceed to Marſeilles and Toulon, or you may turn
eff to the left and go directly to Nice; we fhall
give here a defcription of the remarkable places
in both routes, beginning with thofe in the firft.
VIII. MARSEILLES.
Situation.
Marſeilles is a city and port-town of Provence Marseilles,
in France, fituated on a fine bay of the Medi-
terranean, in eaft longitude 5. 20. latitude 43.
15. It is a place of great antiquity, generally Antiquity.
faid to have been founded by the Phocians, a people
of Ionia in Leffer Afia, about 586 years before
Christ. The ancients mention a flourishing aca-
demy in Marſeilles, to which the Romans, Greeks,
and
166
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
and Gauls reforted, for education, infomuch that
it obtained the title of the learned city. They
were alfo famous for their military valour, and
particularly for the brave defence they made a-
gainst the Romans, who made them their allies;
but Cæfar afterwards deprived them of their pri-
vileges, and ufed them as a conquered people.
'Tis now one of the largeſt, handſomeft and mof
trading cities in the kingdom, fituated at the bot-
tom of a hill, which rifes in the form of an am-
Harbour. phitheatre as it recedes from the fea. The har-
bour is one of the beſt and ſafeſt in the Mediter-
ranean, and the uſual ſtation of the French
king's gallies, but will not admit of ſhips of above
five or fix hundred tuns. It is of an oval form,
and furrounded with a key 1400 paces long, on
which are built the fineſt houſes in the town.
Along this key there is a very agreeable walk,
part of which is occupied with little fhops belong-
ing to the galley-flaves, who deal in toys and
cutler's ware. The entrance of the port is nar-
row, and ſhut with a chain, which lets only one
veſſel in at a time.
Fortifications
The town was much enlarged by the late king,
and well fortified with walls, baftions, and
ditches; it has fix gates, whereof that called the
Royal is very well built, and ornamented with
the ftatues of S. Lazarus and S. Victor, both pa-
trons of the town. There are beacons for fixty
miles upon the coaft to alarm the country upon
the approach of an enemy. The citadel is near
the harbour, commanding the whole town; and
its fortifications reach to the mouth of the port.
The key on this fide from fort,S. Nicholas as far
ac the arfenal, is fifteen hundred paces long, and
adorned with magazines and beautiful houfes.
The magazines of arms and warlike ftores are
faid to equal any in Europe.
Here you
may
through FRANCE.
167
may fee the great hofpital for the flaves, and the
arſenal confifting of fix large pavilions, and as Arſenala-
many fronts, with a great fquare for building the
galleys. Within cannon reach of the Tetragon
that commands part of the town, there is a fort
called Notre Dame de la Garde, from whence the
inhabitants can efpy the fhips out at fea. This
fort is built on the top of a mountain, on the
ruins of an ancient temple of Venus called Ephe-
fium.
Marſeilles is a very populous city, being faid Buildings.
to contain 100,000 inhabitants. It is the fee of
a bifhop, fuffragan of Aix, of a court of ad-
miralty, a viguery, a fenefchal's jurifdiction, and
a bailiwic. It is divided into the old and new town;
the old ftands on an eminence above the port,
where the ſtreets are narrow and dirty, and the
houfes very indifferent. On the other hand, the new
town is perfectly well built, particularly the ſtreet
called the Course, which is one of the fineſt in The Courfe.
Europe, the houſes on each fide being uniform
and magnificent, and between them a charming
walk of trees. The cathedral dedicated to S. Cathedral.
Lazarus is a dark old building, faid by fome to
have been dedicated to Venus, and by others to
Diana of Ephefus. The treaſure of this church
is very confiderable, and there are ftill fome large
pillars on which the idol is faid to have ftood.
Near the cathedral there is a little chapel where
the inhabitants pretend that Mary Magdalen
preached the gofpel to the heathens, as they came
out of the temple. Our Lady de Acoules is a fine
large church, which was anciently a temple de- churches.
dicated to the goddefs Pallas. The church of S.
Saviour, now in the poffeffion of fome nuns, was
confecrated to Apollo. The abbey of S. Victor of
the order of S. Benedict, is a handfome large edifice,
fituated at the foot of the citadel, and incloſed with
walls
I
Other
458
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
own-houſe
Trade.
walls like a caftle.
The church is famous for
relics and a fubterraneous grotto in which S. Mary
Magdalen is faid to have lived fix or ſeven years.
There is a vaft number of religious houfes of
men and women in this city, moft of which con-
tain fomething worth a traveller's curiofity.
-
The town houfe is fituated on the port oppofite
the galleys. 'Tis a neat, though not a large build-
ing; the lower part ferves for an exchange for
the merchants, and the upper contains an apart-
ment for the affemblies of the confuls and town-
counſellors and others, concerning the civil go-
vernment and commercial affairs. The moſt re-
markable beauty of this edifice are the town arms
on the frontispiece, carved by the famous Pu-
get. For the civil government the town is di-
vided into four quarters, which are thofe of S.
John, Cavillon, the Corps de Ville, and the Blan-
carie; each of thefe has its captains and other
officers.
The trade of Marſeilles is the moſt conſidera-
ble of any place in the Mediterranean. They
have ſeveral manufactures of their own, but that
of filk furpaffes the reft. To Italy they export.
annually in time of peace the value of 3,050,000
livres, in the product and manufacture of Languedoc,
Dauphiné, and Provence, viz. in cloth and other
woolen manufactures, almonds, honey, prunes,
figs, falted cels, olives, anchovies, oil, grain,
flower, cotton-linen, cotton - waiſtcoats, and
ſtockings, thread and worfted. On the contrary,
they import from Italy to the value of 3,335,350
livres, in hemp, rice, corn, fulphur, annifeeds,
manna, and fine filk. To Spain their trade is the
moſt confiderable of any; for they export an-
nually to that country,
that country, to the amount of
9,170,000 livres, in linen of all forts, ftuffs,
brocades, taffeta's, and other wrought filks, gold
and
through FRANCE.
169
and filver lace, box-combs, gold and filver ſtuffs,
brocades and wrought filks from Lyons, Avignon
taffetas, hardware, Chaumont, laces, linen of
Britany, camlets of Lifle, ferges, and other woolen
clothes of Nimes, fuftians, dimities, hats, galls,
paper, prunes, thread, cotton, gum Arabic, galls
of Aleppo, faffron, and all kinds of drugs. On
the contrary they import annually from Spain the
value of 8,180,000 livres, in cochineal, quinquina,
indigo, Campeachy-wood, wool of Segovia and
other places, Sarsaparilla, fugar, vermilion, filk,
liquorice, pieces of eight, oil, dried raifins, &c.
Their Turkey or Levant trade is very large, for
they uſually ſend twelve or fifteen fhips annually
to Conftantinople, ſeven or eight to Smyrna, about
a hundred ſmall veffels to Candia, two or three
fhips to Scandaroon, and ten or twelve fhips with
four or five barks to Alexandria.
As you approach Marſeilles towards the fea, Neighbour-
you have a very agreeable profpect. The town hood.
appears like a great terrafs raiſed on the fea-fhore,
before which you fee the ifles of If, Rattoneau,
and Pomegues, which are only three miles off.
In each of theſe ifles there is a ſtrong caſtle, and a
Lazaretto for performing quarantain.
On the
land fide, you behold one of the finest plains in
Europe, in which there are very near fix thouſand
country houſes called Baftides, belonging to the
merchants and tradefmen of Marseilles. Thefe
Bastides confift of a ſmall pavilion, with a garden
or vineyard, whither the inhabitants retire from
the noife of the town. About four in the after-
noon, in fummer-time, when a citizen has done
his day's work, and the heat fomewhat abated,
he fets his wife on an afs betwixt a pair of panniers,
in one of which is his child, and in the other a
little wine, oil, and bread. Then he either
drives the afs himſelf, or follows it at fome di-
VOL. IV.
ſtance,
I
170
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Toulon.
ftance, till he comes to his Baftide, where they
are entertained with roots, herbs, and grapes,
and their aſs with vine-leaves, till they return the
next morning. They have very good entertain-
ment for travellers at Marſeilles at the Arms of
Holland.
IX. TOULON.
From Marſeilles to Toulon the road is ftony and
mountainous; the mountains are fo perpendicular-
ly high, and hang over in fome places, that they
look difmal as well as barbarous and extremely
barren. In the road to Toulon you pafs through
the little town of Aubagne, which has the title of
a barony, and belongs to the bifhop of Mar-
feilles.
Toulon is a city and fea-port of Provence in
[ Situation. France, in eaft longitude 6. latitude 43. 5. It is
Antiquity. a place of great antiquity, having been originally
a caftle built by the Marfilians to defend the coaft
againſt pyrates. Telo Martius the tribune ſettled
a colony there afterwards, and called it by his
own name. After the fall of the Roman empire
it had particular lords of its own, till 1270, that
the heiress of this diftrict fold it to Charles I.
count of Provence. The kings of France, to
whom it afterwards devolved, finding it a com-
modious harbour, pitched upon it as their princi-
pal arfenal in the Mediterranean. Henry IV.
fortified it with ftrong walls, two royal baſtions,
and two moles of 700 paces each, that almoſt
cover the harbour, leaving only a very narrow
entrance, which is fhut with a chain between two
forts. It was afterwards improved by Lewis XIV,
to whom it owes its fine docks, yards, founderies,
and the finiſhing of its fortifications.
Fortifications
This
through FRANCE.
171
This city is the fee of a biſhop fuffragan of Buildings.
Arles, the ſtation of the royal navy, and the feat
of a viguier. It is of no large compaſs, but well
built, and adorned with many ftately churches,
religious houſes of men and women, and other
public edifices. The cathedral dedicated to the The Cathe
bleffed Virgin and S. Cyriac, is remarkable for the dral.
great altar, and the two ſide chapels. There are
a great number of religious houſes of men and
women in this city, the chief of which are thoſe
of the Jefuits, and the fathers of the oratory.
The finest ſtreet in the town is that of S.
Mignaud, beginning from the key, and con-
taining among other buildings the town-houſe, The town-
which is very much efteemed for its architecture, houfe.
being built by the famous Puget. The harbour Harbour,
extends the whole length of Toulon, and has
always a confiderable number of men of war.
The key is very uniform, and all paved with
bricks,
The magazines and offices which the late Magazines.
French king erected for the navy, are worthy the
curiofity of travellers. Thefe offices confift, 1.
Of the rope-yard, where there are three arches,
under which the gallies enter, and fo long that
a man can hardly fee from one end to the other:
Over it the workmen dreſs their hemp and pre-
pare cordage for the fhips. 2. The fchool for the
marine-guards, where they are taught the mathe-
matics, and their military exerciſes.
3. The
hall of arms, a very ftately building, where they
make all forts of arms neceffary for men of war.
4. S. Barbe, where all utenfils and inftruments
requifite for gunners are preferved. 5. The
offices for the fmiths, carpenters, and coopers,
which are of a vaſt extent. 6. The artillery-park,
where the cannon, bombs, and bullets are piled
up in a regular manner; the banks of the canal
which
I 2
172
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Brignole.
which furrounds the park, are covered with an-
chors. 7. The ftore-houfe, where the fails.
and rigging for the men of war are laid up.
8. The foundery, where all manner of cannon
and mortars are caft. 9. The royal bake-houſe,
with its numerous ovens, a furpriſing ftructure.
10. The field of battle under the wall of the ar-
fenal, where the marine-guards exercife. The
machine for putting the mafts in fhips at the old
dock near the chain, is the admiration of all that
fee it. They reckon that in the year 1707, when
this city was befieged by the allies under the
command of Prince Eugene and the duke of Sa-
voy, they had then in Toulon near fix hundred
braſs cannon, upwards of three thouſand iron
guns, fixteen firft rate men of war, eight fecond
rates, twenty-four third rates, and fix fourth
rates, befides frigates, bomb-veffels, fire-fhips,
&c. all which would have very probably fallen in-
to our hands, if through the mifmanagement of
fome of the confederates, as well as through un-
avoidable accidents, we had not been obliged to
raiſe the fiege.
At Toulon and Marseilles 'there are veffels al-
moſt every day bound for Genoa or Leghorn. But
thofe that chufe to proceed by land, muft go
from Toulon to Pignan, and from Pignan to Vi-
dauban, where you fall in with the poſt road from
Aix to Nice, as mentioned p. 120.
Remarkable places in the route from Aix
to Nice.
I. BRIGNOLE.
Brignole is a ſmall town of Provence, with a
bailiwic, a fenefchal, a judge-royal, and a viguier.
'Tis a very ancient place, as appears by feveral in-
fcriptions.
through FRANCE.
173
fcriptions. It is alſo noted for its fine fruit, par-
ticularly prunes, which are tranfported to the
Levant.
II. FREJUS.
Frejus is a city of Provence in France, fituate
at the mouth of river Argens, about a mile from
the fea, thirty five miles north east of Toulon,
and thirty fouth-weft of Nice. It is a place of
great antiquity, Julius Cæfar being faid to have
eftabliſhed here his magazine for the conqueft of
Gaul, likewife to have embellifhed it with feveral
edifices, whereof there are ftill fome ruins, and
to have given it the name of Forum Julii. It
was alfo the naval ftation for Auguftus Cæfar's
Aleet, and the birth place of the celebrated Agri-
cola. At prefent it is a biſhop's fee, who is tem-
poral as well as fpiritual lord of the place, and
fuffragan of Aix. The town has fome old for-
tifications, but is very indifferently built, and in
a ruinous condition. The cathedral dedicated to
the Virgin is an old dark building, having nothing
to recommend it but the tombs of fome bifhops.
There are a few convents which contain nothing
worth feeing. An ancient fountain furniſhes the
inhabitants with water; and two little rivers, the
Beal and the Rairan waſh the town walls, and af-
terwards fall into the Argens, which empties itfelf
into the Mediterranean at about a mile from the
town. The old harbour is now a fat Thore, fo
that veffels cannot come up to the town, but are
obliged to lye at anchor in the road, where there
is a bay formed by fome rocks, by which they
are ſheltered from ftorms. The amphitheatre of
Frejus, which they call here the Arenes, deferves
feeing.'is of an oval form, and of fo folid a
ftructure, that though it was built of ſmall ſtones,
1 3
yet
374
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Antibes.
Road from
Nice.
yet there is a great part of it ftanding to this day.
Not far from hence in the church of the Domi-
nicans, you may fee an admirable ftatue of the
infant Jefus, made of wood, waſhed with paint,
which was taken on board a Spaniſh veffel, and
made a prefent of to this church by fome priva-
teers.
On the road from Frejus towards Canes, you
fee the remains of an old Roman aqueduct, that
carried the water feven leagues. To Canes you
climb all the way on the fides of great ftony moun-
tains, thick covered with pines and firrs.
III. ANTIBES.
It
Antibes is a port-town of Provence fituate on the
Mediterranean, in eaft longitude 7. latitude 43.
40. This was a colony of the ancient Marfilians,
and adorned by the Romans with feveral good
buildings, the ruins of which are ſtill extant.
is the laft town in Provence, towards the fron-
tiers of Italy, and was formerly called Antipolis
Julia Augufta. The town is pretty well built,
furrounded with walls and defended by a strong
citadel. The harbour is very fafe, but too fhal-
low. The parish church is called Notre Dame de
la Place.
From Antibes to Nice the roads are very bad,
Antibes to through rugged mountains, bordered with pre-
cipices on the left, and by the ſea to the right.
Between Antibes and the village of S. Laurent,
you paſs the little river Loup, which falls into the
Mediterranean. The village of S. Laurent is
famous for its excellent wine. At a hundred
paces from thence you pafs the river Var, which
rifes in the Alps, and empties itſelf in the Medi-
terranean in the neighbourhood of Nice. Here
it is divided into three branches, which are fo
many
through FRANCE.
175
many torrents that feparate the county of Nice
from Provence, and confequently Italy from
France. This kingdom being expoſed on this fide
to the incurfions of its enemies, we hear that
Marſhal Bellifle is at prefent occupied in building a
fort on the Var, to prevent the paffage of this
river, in caſe of any future invafion from that
quarter. The city of Nice, which comes next
in order, is part of the king of Sardinia's domi-
nions, wherefore we must refer the reader for its
defcription to the third volume of this work,
where we direct our traveller through Italy.
By-places in the route from Lyons to Italy,
by the way of Nice.
Moft travellers that pass through Avignon or
Aix, make it their bufinefs to vifit the famous
and ancient city of Arles. The road from Aix
to Arles is through the little town of Salon, and
a plain called De Crau, one and twenty miles
long, where you meet only with two inns, and
a chapel called by the name of S. Martin.
I. SALON.
The town of Salon is fituated in Provence, in
eaft longitude 5. 5. latitude 43. 33. about eighteen
miles from Aix. It is famous for the birth of the
noted aftrologer Noftradamus, whoſe tomb, with
an epitaph by his wife, is in the church of the Cor-
deliers. There is a collegiate church in the town,
and a few convents. It has the title of a princi-
pality, and depends upon the archbiſhop of Arles.
On a little hill in the town there is an ancient
caſtle, where they have a garriſon of invalids.
I 4
II. ARLES.
Salon.
176
:
!
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
1
Situation,
II. ARLES.
Arlos. Arles is a city of Provence in France, in eaft
longitude 4. 45. latitude 43. 32. fituated on the
eaft bank of the Rhone, upon a very uneven
ground, and almoft furrounded by a morafs,
which renders the air unhealthful. The origin
of this town and its name are very uncertain;
this we know, that it was made a colony by the
Romans, the feat of their governor in thoſe parts,
and of the fixth legion. Conftantine the Great
built great part of the town on the weft fide of the
Rhone, and joined it by a fine bridge; but there
is fcarce any part of it now remaining. That
prince feems to have been vaftly pleaſed with the
fituation of this place, by making it the feat
of the Roman empire in Gaul, and giving it the
name of Conftantium. 'Tis now a large and
flouriſhing city, and the feat of an archbishop and
fenefchal. The cathedral dedicated to S. Tro-
phimus, is a vaft Gothic structure, the front of
which is adorned with a large number of figures
in relievo. The high altar has a fine tabernacle
of filver embellifhed with feveral figures in a
Churches. good tafte. Oppofite to the cathedral ſtands
the church of S. Mary the greater, on the left
hand the bishop's palace, and on the right the
town-houſe. The latter is an elegant regular
building, and finely fituated. It is of a fquare fi-
gure, built with white ftone, and adorned with
three orders of architecture one above another.
The portico is quite magnificent, being embel-
lifhed with the bufts of the counts of Provence,
and the roof fuftained by twenty double pillars.
Befides the cathedral there are fix parifhes in
this city, and a great many religious houfes of
men and women. They have a bridge of boats
Town-houſe
over
through FRANCE.
177
over the Rhone, which joins the town with the
fuburb called Trinquetaille.
There is no city in France fo remarkable for Antiquities.
antiquities as Arles, infomuch that it is generally
called a fecond Rome. The principal of theſe are,
1. A noble obelifk of granite marole, fuppofed to
have been brought hither in Tiberius's reign. It is
all of one ſtone, fifty two feet high, and feven feet
diameter in the bafe, like thofe of Rome,only it has no
hieroglyphics. It lay for many ages under-ground
in a private garden near the walls of the town, till
the magiftrates of Arles ordered it to be dug up,
and fet upon a pedeſtal in the year 1676. This
monument they confecrated to the glory of Lewis
XIV, placing an azure globe on the top of it,
ftrewed with golden flowers de luce, and a fun,
which was this prince's device. The four angles
of the pedeſtal are adorned with four lions in
marble; and the feveral faces contain infcriptions.
pointing out the most memorable events of his
reign. 2. The ruins of an amphitheatre, which
was built by the Romans, and as fome pretend
by Julius Cæfar. It is of an oval form, and a
hundred and ninety-four fathoms in circumfe-
rence; the longeft diameter of the area feventy
one fathoms, and the fhorteit fifty-two.
The
porticos are three ftories high, built with free-
ftone of a prodigious fize; every ftory contains
fixty arches, which ftill remain. The walls are
of a furprizing thickneſs, but very much battered
and defaced. This fine building is fituated in
the higheſt part of the town, and is older and
more magnificent than that of Nimes, but not fo
entire. The arena within fide has been filled with
houſes, and many of the arches demolished.
Thefe houfes form feveral ftreets, fo that the in-
fide of the amphitheatre is almost entirely de-
froyed. Under the amphitheatre they found in
1 5
1651,
•
178
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
con-
1651, the admirable ftatue of Venus, which was
adored by the inhabitants of Arles, and is
fince removed to the gardens of Versailles by a
donation of the inhabitants to Lewis XIV.
3. The burying place of the Elyfian Fields, where
the heathens buried their dead, is fituated on a
very agreeable hill without the town, and divided
into two parts. The firft called Moulaires,
tains very few tombs, becauſe they were partly
deftroyed to build the walls of the garden, and
partly given away to private people. The fe-
cond called Elifcamp, contains a large number
of tombs. Thoſe of the Pagans are known by
the two letters D. M. which fignify Diis Ma-
nibus; whereas thoſe of the Chriftians are marked
with a ſmall crofs. There was formerly a much
greater number of theſe tomb-ftones, but fome of
them have been uſed in building country-
-houſes
in the neighbourhood, and others broke for the
fake of the medals, which have been often found
within them, as alfo urns, lachrymatories, and
lamps. 4. In the parish of the archiepifcopal palace
on the great ftair cafe, and in the hall, there are
feveral curious remains of antiquity, as bufts, frag-
ments of ſtatues, baffo-relievo's, and lachrymal
Hard by there are alfo fome remains of
the ancient Therma or hot-baths; theſe are large
fquare ftones, which are feen under an ancient
arch, oppofite the wall of the palace. 5. There is
a great vault going from hence to Nimes, which was
ufed by the Romans, when they had a colony in thoſe
parts. The other antiquities confift of columns,
bufts, pedeſtals, aqueducts, arches, with fome re-
mains of the capitol, and the temples of the falfe
Gods: For a complete defcription of all theſe cu-
riofities fee Monf. Seguin's hiftoire des antiquités
d'Arles.
urns.
2
III
through FRANCE.
179
III. S. MAXIMIN.
S. Maximin is a ſmall town of Provence, fi- S. Maximin.
tuated to the eastward of Aix, on the river Ar-
gens, in a plain furrounded with mountains, eigh-
teen miles from Aix, twenty four from Toulon,
and fix from S. Baume. It confifts of only one
pariſh, and had its name from S. Maximin bifhop
of Aix, who is there interred, together, as it is
faid, with feveral other faints. The place is famous
for a convent of Dominicans, where according to
tradition they preferve part of the body of S.
Mary Magdalen, and a phial containing the drops
of blood which the is faid to have collected at the
foot of our Saviour's croſs, with many other re-
lics of that faint. The church is a fine Gothic
building, full of rich ornaments, and remarkable
for fome excellent paintings; the high altar paſſes
for one of the beſt in France.
IV. S. BE A U ME.
S. Beaume is a name given to a very high rock, S. Beaume,
where S. Mary Magdalen is ſuppoſed to have
ſpent thirty years in doing penance.
The grott
where this faint is faid to have refided, is incloſed
with an iron grate, having a large number of lamps
before it night and day. Near it is a fountain,
which runs on every fide of the rock, except
where the faint is faid to have refted, in
which place there never was feen a fingle drop.
Juft by this grott they have built a pretty little
church, and a convent for eight of the fathers of
S. Maximin. From hence devout people afcend
to the holy pillar, whither it is pretended the
faint was lifted up feven times a day by angels.
I 6
V.
180
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Hieres.
Burgoin.
1
V. HIERE S.
Hieres is a pretty little town, fitúate near the
fea, about nine miles to the eastward of Toulon,
and gives its name to the oppoſite iſlands in the
Mediterranean. It was formerly a colony of the
Marfilians; and pilgrims uſed to embark here
for the Holy Land. At prefent it is confiderable
becauſe of the excellent falt made here, both
from the water, and falt pools. Here are alſo
very fine gardens, which are very profitable to
the inhabitants. Oppofite to this town are the
ifles, where the English lay many months in 1744,
and blocked up the French and Spanish fleets in
the harbour of Toulon, which was followed by
the famous engagement between Matthews and
the combined fquadron.
Remarkable places in the route from Lyons
to Italy, by the way of Geneva.
In this route there occurs no place worth
notice, till you come to Geneva, of which city
we have given a deſcription already in this work,
vol. iii. p. 170.
Remarkable places in the route from Lyons
to Italy by Grenoble and Briançon.
Leaving Lyons you pafs through Burgoin, a
fmall borough eighteen miles from Vienne, where
there is a convent of barefooted Auftin friars, and
another of Urfuline nuns. Proceeding thence
you meet with nothing worth defcription till you
come to Grenoble.
I. GRENOBLE,
through FRANCE.
181
I. GRENOBLE.
Grenoble is the capital of Dauphiné in France, Grenoble.
in eaft longitude 5. 28. latitude 45. 12. pleafant-
ly fituated on the river Ifere in a fruitful plain at
the foot of a mountain, which produces excellent
wine. This city was enlarged and beautified by
the emperor Gratian, who called it Gratianapolis,
from whence comes the prefent name Grenoble.
It is generally ranked among the chief cities of
the kingdom for the number of its houfes,
churches, and other buildings. 'Tis the feat of a
biſhop fuffragan of Vienne, who has the title of
prince, which was conferred upon him by the
emperor Frederic in 1086. 'Tis likewife the feat
of a parliament inftituted in 1453, by the Dau-
phin, afterwards Lewis XI, and of a chamber of
accounts, a mint, a bailiwic, and a generality.
The river Ifere divides it into two unequal parts,
the largeſt of which is much the fineft. The
ftreets are wide and well paved, and moft of the
public buildings very handfome. The cathe-
dral dedicated to our Lady, is a fine Gothic ftruc-
ture. The collegiate church of S. Andrew is re-
markable for its lofty tower in form of a pyramid,.
and for a very curious tomb. They have two
other parish churches, and a great many convents
of men and women, among which the church
and college of the Jefuits are the moft remarkable.
There are likewife fome good hofpitals, and a
very large one called the Hofpital General. The
church of the Dominicans is one of the moſt an-
cient in the town; in the middle of the choir
you fee the tomb of Andrew, fon to Humbert the
lalt prince of Dauphiné, whom this prince let
fall out of the window as he was playing with
him. The wood-work in this choir is reckoned
مندرا
282
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The Grand
a maſter-piece in its kind; on one fide are carved
the twelve apoſtles, and on the other the principal
men of the order. The palace where the parlia-
ments meets is a fine old building. The gover-
nor's palace, fortified with fome towers, is a large
and magnificent ftructure, from whence there is a
beautiful profpect of the river and the adjacent
country. The houſe of the marquis of Canillac,
is a modern edifice, defervedly efteemed for
the beauty of its architecture. There are two
bridges over the Ifere, one of ftone and the other
of wood, which join the great with the little
town. The latter is called la Perriere, and con-
fifts only of one large treet, that ftretches along
the river, beginning at the gate of S. Laurence,
and ending at the gate of France, where there is
a mall of ſeveral rows of trees on the banks of
the Ifere, which here receives the Dracq.
Moft travellers in going by Grenoble, embrace
Chartreuse, the opportunity of paying a viſit to the Grand
Chartreufe. This is a famous monaftery, the
mother of all the houfes of that order, fituated
feven miles north-east of Grenoble, upon a high
rock (to which you afcend by a very ftrait paffage
for above three miles) and furrounded by an al-
moftimpenetrable foreft of fir-trees. 'Tis a
magnificent, but irregular ſtructure, having been
built at different times. It was founded by S:
Bruno in 1086, who being weary of the world,
choſe this frightful mountain, called Chartreufe,
for his retreat. The church is beautifully adorned,
as alfo the public apartments for the reception
of ſtrangers, and eſpecially the great hall where
there are ſome good paintings. In the chapel of
our Lady at the bottom of the valley, there are
fome beautiful pictures, but particularly that of
S. Bruno kneeling before the crofs. Going out
of this chapel you paſs a torrent, over which
there is a bridge, and on the left hand you fee
Chartroufet,
through FRANCE.
183
!
!
i
Chartroufet, a village depending on the monaftery,
together with the reft of the adjacent country for
about fix miles, which brings in a confiderable
revenue to the monks. Here the General keeps
his refidence, from whence he cannot remove
after his election, which is made only by the
members of this houſe. Theſe fathers entertain
fuch as vifit them, with great civility. The
monks are not allowed to ſpeak to ftrangers, or
to one another, but at certain hours and places.
They have a houſe where they follow all manner
of mechanic employments, as fpinning the wool
of which their gowns are made, doing joiners
and cutlers work, carving, painting, engraving,
and a great many other things for the embellifh-
ment of their monaſtery. On Sundays and holi-
days they have leave to walk out for their di-
verſion, and as foon as they have paffed the courts
of the convent. they are permitted to expecto-
rate a little in fpiritual converfation.
II. BRIANÇON.
Briançon is the capital of the Briançonois in Briangon.
Dauphiné, in eaft longitude 6. 20. latitude 44. 50.
It is a place of great antiquity, by the Romans
called Brigantium, becauſe of the Brigantes, who
inhabited this mountainous country. Formerly it
was more confiderable for riches and ſtrength
than now, having fuffered much by fire and war.
'Tis a pleaſant city, fituated at the foot of a rock,
upon which there is a very ftrong caftle; and at
the conflux of two fmall brooks, the Doire and
the Ance, which give name to the river Durance.
Some reckon the fituation of Briançon the higheſt
of any city in Europe. The town is naturally
ftrong, and the fortifications much improved,
fince the French have been obliged to furrender
Exiles
184
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Pignerol.
Exiles and Fenestrelles on the frontiers of Piedmont,
to the king of Sardinia. They have a hand-
fome parifh church, three convents, and a baili-
wic. The manna of Briançon is much eſteemed,
being a kind of white fweet gum, which falls from
a particular kind of pine trees during the heat of
fummer. About fix miles from hence lies a rock
called Pertuis Raftan, or the pierced rock, thro
which a way was cut to facilitate the paffage
from Italy to Gaul, and fuppofed by fome to be
the work of Hannibal, by others of Cæfar, and
by others of Cottius, a brave prince of the
Gauls, whom the Romans took into their alliance,
and from whom thefe mountains received the
name of Alpes Cottiana. Upon the front of the
gate you fee this infcription, D. Cafari Auguflo
dedicata, falutate eam, by which 'tis fuppofed
that the ftatue of that emperor was placed over
it.
From Briançon you may enter Italy by Pig-
norol, proceeding first to the village of Sezane,
nine miles from Briançon, thence to the little
town of Peroufe, which gives its name to one
of the valleys of the Vaudois, and is eighteen
miles diftant from Sezane; thence nine miles far-
ther to Pignerol. Pignerol is a town of Italy in
the province of Piedmont, in eaft longitude 7. 15.
latitude 44. 45. fituated on the river Chizon, ten
miles fouth-weft of Turin, at the foot of the
Alps, and the confines of Dauphiné. The town
is fmall but populous, and extremely well forti-
fied by the king of Sardinia fince the treaty of
Utrecht, which left him at liberty to rebuild
the fortifications of his frontier towns, that had
been demoliſhed by the French, among which was
Pignerol. It is defended by a citadel, on the
top of the mountain, near which is the cafle of
Peruſe,
f.
1
through FRANCE.
185
Peroufe, which was built at the entrance of the
valley of that name.
to Italy.
Another way not yet mentioned of entering Another way
Italy from Grenoble, is by Ambrun and Mont from Grenoble
Dauphin. From Grenoble you go to Mure, from
Mure to Corps, from Corps to Lefdiguieres, from
Lefdiguieres to Ambrun, from Ambrun to Mont
Dauphin, from whence there is a paffage into
Piedmont. The only places of note in this route
are, 1. Lefdeguieres, a town in the valley of Lefdiguieresa
Champtant in Dauphiné, almoft eighteen miles
from Gap, and famous for the birth of the con-
ftable Lefdeguieres, who, by his valour, raiſed
himfelf from a private gentleman to be duke,
peer, marfhal, and lord high-conftable of France,
under Henry V. This town was erected into
a dutchy and peerage upon his account in 1611,
and has now a fine caftle belonging to the family.
2. Ambrun is a city of France in the province Ambrun,
of Dauphiné, in caſt longitude 6. 6. latitude 44-
35. It is a very ancient town fituated near the
confines of Piedmont, on a ſteep rock, at the foot
of which runs the river Durance. Its Latin
name Ebrodunum comes from the Romans, who
took it into their alliance, and favoured it with
great privileges. On the weft fide it is fortified
by the rock, and by walls and towers on the
other fide. 'Tis the feat of an archbishop, who
is metropolitan of the maritime Alps, and ftiled
prince of Ambrun. Befides the cathedral it has
five parish churches, and feveral monafteries, with
a handfome college of Jefuits. The archepif-
copal palace, is a magnificent ftructure, fituated
in the higheſt part of the town.
3. From Ambrun you go to Mont Dauphin, a
fortress of Dauphiné below Guilletre, built in
1693, after the duke of Savoy's invafion, to de-
fend
Mont Dan-
plin.
186
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Pont de
fend the paſs. It is fituated on a very ſteep moun-
tain, and almoft furrounded by the Durance.
You may likewiſe go from Briançon to Mont
Dauphin, being very near as fhort a way as by
Ambrun.
Remarkable places in the route from Lyons
to Italy, by Pont de Beauvoifin and
Savoy.
In this route you meet with nothing worth no-
Beauvoifin. tice, till you come to Pont de Beauvsifin, the
laft town of France, in the province of Dauphiné
and on the frontiers of Savoy. It is fituated
within fix miles of the Rhone, on the river Giers
or Guyer, which feparates Savoy from France.
'Tis divided into two parts by the river, over
which there is a bridge, and reckoned a very im-
portant pafs. The inhabitants make a confidera-
ble profit by the vipers they take in the adjacent
country. From Pont de Beauvoisin you may go
to Chamberry, or elfe to Montmelian, and from
thence to S. John de Maurienne, Suſa, and Turin,
according to the route given in the third volume
of this work, p. 168.
CHA P. IV.
Journey from Paris to Straſburg.
T
HE route from Paris to Strafburg is by
Chalons in Champagne, from whence you
may either proceed to Metz and Verdun, or
you may go by the way of Nancy and Lune-
ville. The coach from Paris to Strafburg fets out
on
through FRANCE.
187
on Saturdays at feven in the morning, from the
Hotel de Pompone in the Rue de la Verrerie; you
pay fifty-five livres for your place, and five fous
per pound for your baggage. There are likewife
daily conveniences of berlins and chaiſes for Straf-
burg and other parts of Alface.
First route from Paris to Strafburg by Metz
and Verdun.
PARIS
Bondy
Vergalant
Pofts.
Poft royal
I
Glaye
MEAUX
1 2
I
S. Jean
I
LA FERTE
I
Nanteuil fur Marne
I
Chezy
2
Parroy
Dormans
CHATEAU-THIERRY
Port a Binfon
La Cave
EPERNAI
I
1 1/2
I
I
I
Plivaux
I
Falons
I
Maſtogne
I
CHALONS
I
Notre Dame de L'Epine
I
Bellay
11
Orbeval
1 1/
CLERMONT
ST. MANEHOUD
Inlettes
Dombale
VERDUN
I
I
I
I
}}
Manheule
188
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Manheule
2
Harville
Malatour
I
I
Gravelotte
METZ
Soigne
Donjeu
Vic
Donnelay
Hazondange
Heming
SARREBOURG
Hommartin
PHALZBOURG
SAVERNE
Vilden
Stiffen
NA MIN
I
I
1 ½
2
2플
​122
HIN FIN HIN
21
1 1/
I
I
I
I
I
1½
-
I
STRASBURG
In all fifty fix pofts.
11/1
Second route from Paris to Straſburg by
Nancy and Luneville.
This route is the fame as the preceding as far
as Chalons, where you leave Verdun on the left,
to take the following route to Nancy.
}
English
through FRANCE.
189
Engliſh miles from one place to another.
CHALONS
12 Sommeville
18 La Maiſon du val
12 Bar
9 Ligni
9 S. Aubin
9
Void
6 Lage
6 TOUL
6 Wlaine
12
30
42
NA O
51
бо
69
75
81
730
87
93
6 NANCY
6
S. Nicholas
99
9
LUNEVILLE
108
9 Bennamini
117
9 Blamont
126
144
Engliſh miles from Chalons
18 SAARBOURG
The remainder from Saarbourg as in the pre-
ceeding route.
Remarkable places in the first route.
I. MEAUX.
Meaux is a city of France, and capital of the Megun,
diftrict of Brie Champenoife in Champagne, in
east longitude 3. latitude 49. This is a very
ancient city, mentioned by Cafar in his com-
mentaries; it is the feat of a bishop fuffragan of
Paris, of a bailiwic, and an election. 'Tis
pleaſantly fituated on the river Marne, which di-
vides it into the town and the market. The
bridge which joins thefe two parts, is built of ftone;
that belonging to the neighbouring mills is only of
wood. The market is very confiderable, becauſe
of the good corn and cheeſe of Brie. The
ſtreets in that part called the town are very
narrow.
190
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
La Fertê.
Chateau-
narrow.
The cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin
and S. Stephen, is a fine Gothic ftructure, and was
reckoned a much better building, before the English
deſtroyed one of its towers. The other, which
ftill fubfifts, is eſteemed for its height, thickneſs,
and ſculptures. The bishop's palace has fome par-
ticular beauties, and among the reſt a handſome
court. There are feveral pariſhes in the town, as
well as collegiate churches, abbeys, and convents
of both fexes.
II. LA FERTE.
La Ferté is a ſmall town of Brie Champenoise,
which is alſo called La Ferté gaucher. It is fi-
tuated on the conflux of the Marne and Morin,
twelve miles from Coulomiers. They have a
handſome wooden bridge over the river, and a
very good caſtle.
III. CHATEAU-THIERRY.
Chateau-Theirry is a fmall city of Brie Cham-
Thierry. penoife in France, fituated on the Marne, and ca-
pital of its diftrict. It was made a dutchy and
peerage by Charles IX, in 1566, and exchanged
by Lewis XIII, with the duke of Bouillon for the
principality of Sedan in 1642. The town is
pretty large, well built, has feveral churches,
and is ftrong by its fituation. It lyes on the
fide of Champagne, except a fuburb and a con-
vent of Capuchins, which are on the fide of Brie.
They have a good caftle on an eminence, from
whence there is a delightful profpect of the Marne,
and the adjacent meadows, which are bordered
by pleaſant hills.
IV. EPERNAY.
P
through FRANCE.
191
IV. EPERN AY.
Epernay is a ſmall town of Champagne, fituated Epernay.
on the Marne, between Chalons and Chateau-
Thierry, and noted only for a monaſtery of the
order of S. Auguftin.
V. CHALONS.
Chalons, called Chalons fur Marne, to diſtinguiſh Chalons,
it from Chalons fur Soane in Burgundy, is the ca-
pital of the Chalonois in Champagne, in eaft longitude
4. 35. latitude 48. 55. In the time of the Ro-
mans this was one of the chief towns of Gallia
Belgica; now 'tis the feat of a biſhop ſuffragan of
Rheims, as likewife of a prefidial and bailiwic, and of
the intendant of Champagne. The biſhop is one of
the three ecclefiaftical counts and peers of
France. It is pleaſantly fituated on the river
Marne, by which it is divided into three parts, the
town, the iſle, and the borough, which have a com-
munication with one another by bridges. It is en-
compaffed with ftrong walls and deep ditches,
made by order of Francis 1. The streets are
large, and the houſes well built of a chalky ftone,
which makes them look very white.
The ca-
thedral dedicated to S. Stephen, is in that part
called the ifle, and noted only for its high tower.
They are remarkable in this town for the num-
ber thirteen, as thirteen pariflies, thirteen bridges,
thirteen courts of juftice, and thirteen convents,
befides a handfome college of Jefuits. The town-
houſe is a neat building, which ftands in a large
ſquare, where there is alſo a church dedicated
to our Lady. There are ſeveral handfome
fquares which are a particular ornament to the
town. As the river Marne enters Chalons
and
192
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
*
}
8. Manehoud
Clermont.
and forms there an ifle, it affords the inhabi-
tants a great conveniency of tranſporting their
goods to Paris. There is a great number of rich
merchants both in the town and in the fuburbs
of Marne, whofe principal trade is in cloth,
linen and corn. Without the town there is a
moft delightful walk, called the Fards with trees
planted on each fide, extending for three miles
as far as the bishop of Chalons's houfe, which
is much efteemed for the beauty of its gar-
dens and canals. The civility of the inhabi-
tants, the pleaſantnefs of the fituation, and the
fruitfulness of the neighbouring foil, are the oc-
cafion of the town's being much frequented by
ftrangers. Some French writers are of opinion
that in the neighbouring plains, which are exceed-
ing large, Attila the Hun was defeated by Mero-
veus king of the Franks, Theodoric king of the
Goths, and Etius the Roman general, in which
engagement the Huns are faid to have loft two
hundred thouſand men.
VI. S. MANEHOUD.
S. Manehoud is a fmall town of Champagne, in
the country of Argonne, fituated on a morafs be-
tween two rocks. It is defended by a good caſtle,
which ſtands on the higheſt of thoſe rocks, from
whence there is an agreeable profpect.
VII. CLERMONT.
Clermont is a ſmall town of Champagne, with
the title of a county, in east longitude 5. lati-
tude 49. 10. fituated on a hill, whofe foot is
watered by the river Air. This town, which is
commonly called Clermont in Argonne, was for-
4
merly
through FRANCE.
193
merly well fortified; but the walls were demo-
lifhed in the last century.
VIII. VERDUN.
Verdun is a city of Germany, in French Lorrain, Verdunį
and capital of the bishopric of that name, in eaft
longitude 5. 10. latitude 49. 14. It is fituated
on the Maefe, which forms here feveral little
iflands, and renders it extremely pleafant. They
generally divide it into three parts; the largeſt is
called the town, fituated on an eminence, with
a gentle declivity towards the river. The citadel
is on the fame fide, on an equal eminence, fo
that it has the command of the whole town,whoſe
walls are very ſtrong. The cathedral is alarge Go-
thic building, whofe height is far from being pro-
portioned to its bignefs, becauſe of the violent winds
to which the town is fubject. The great altar of
the first choir is beautifully adorned; and the ſecond
choir is paved with Mofaic. They have feveral o-
ther abbeys, convents, and churches in the town,
the principal of which is that of S. Vannes, fituated
in the middle of the fix baſtions of the citadel. The
epiſcopal palace, and the town-houſe, are handfome
buildings; in the latter the clock deferves par-
ticular notice. The ſtreet which forms a ſquare
before the king's houfe is one of the largeſt in
Verdun. The Jefuits have a handfome college,
in the ſtreet called La Moifée, and a little farther
are the houſes of the richest merchants of the
town. They fell a great quantity of comfits in
Verdun, and particularly their anifeeds are in
great reputation. The neighbouring meadows
are very pleafant, affording variety of agreeable
walks to the inhabitants.
2
VOL. IV.
K
IX. METZ.
194
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Met.
Route from
Mets to
Nancy.
IX. MET Z.
A
Metz is a city of Germany, in French Lorrain,
and capital of the bifhoprick of that name, in eaft
longitude 6. latitude 49. 16. It is a large wealthy
place, fituated at the conflux of the Moſelle and
Selle, formerly an imperial city, but reduced to
the obedience of France, together with the cities
of Toul and Verdun, in 1552, and confirmed to
that crown by the treaty of Munſter in 1648.
'Tis the feat of a bishop fuffragan of Treves, who
has the title of a prince of the empire; as alfo of
a bailiwic, and a parliament eftablifhed by Lewis
XIII, to which the whole bifhopric, as well as
thofe of Toul and Verdun aie fubject. The town
is about nine miles in circumference, has three
gates and two bridges, and is extremely well for-
tified. The citadel has four baltions, with large
ditches into which they can let the Selle by fluices.
The cathedral dedicated to S. Stephen, is an an-
cient noble pile, fituated on the fide of a hill, and
remarkable for a font of an intire piece of por-
phyry, ten feet long. There are fixteen parifh
churches, feven nuneries, and feveral other re-
ligious houſes, befides a college of Jefuits. Metz
is one of the French towns where the Jews
have liberty to refide. They are obliged for di-
ftinction to wear cloaks winter and fummer, and
have a confiderable trade. There are feve-
ral arches and other monuments of antiquity in
and about this city, especially at Jouy about three
miles from hence.
From Meiz you may go to Nancy, and from
thence by Luneville to Strafburg.
The route
from Metz to Nancy is as follows. From Metz'
to Corny, poft and a half: From Corny to Pont-
a-Mouffon, poft and a half: From Pont-a-Mouf-
jonz
3
through FRANCE.
195
L
fon to Belleville, poft: From Belleville to Nancy
poft and a half. The only remarkable place in
this route is Pont-a-Mouffon, a town of Lorrain, Pont-a-
with the title of a marquifate, in eaſt longitude Moufoz.
5. 50. longitude 49. fituated on the river Mofelle,
about fifteen miles north of Nancy. It is a hand-
fome city without walls, and was formerly de-
fended by a caſtle on a neighbouring hill, which
was demoliſhed by order of Lewis XIII. in 1635
There is a bridge here over the Mofelle, from
whence the town had part of its name, and the
other part from the ruins of the neighbouring caftle
of Mouffon. It has two abbeys, feveral handfome
churches, and an univerſity founded by Charles
Cardinal of Lorrain, in 1573-
But to return to the direct route from Metz to
Strafburg, as laid down in the beginning of this
chapter; you fet out from Metz, and meet with
nothing worth notice till you come to Vic, a Vic.
borough fituated on the Selle, about three miles.
from Marfal, and fifteen from Nancy. Here
there is a caſtle belonging to the biſhop of Metz.
The next place worth defcription you come to
is
X. SARREBOURG.
Sarrebourg is a fmall town of Germany in the Sarrebourg,
circle of the Lower Rhine, and electorate of
Triers, in caft longitude 6. 15. latitude 49. 46.
It is fituated on the river Sar, feven miles fouth
of Triers, and confifts only of one great ftreet,
with houſes built in the German manner. The
fortifications are pretty good, as likewife fome of
the public buildings, particularly the caftle, the
town-houſe, S. Nicholas's hofpital, and the com-
mandery of S. John.
K 2
SALTZ-
196
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Phaltzburg.
Saverne.
XI. PHALTZBURG.
Phaltzburg is a ſmall town of Germany, with
the title of a principality, in the landgraviate of
Alface, in eaſt longitude 7. 20. latitude 48. 20.
fituated at the foot of the mount de Vauge, near
the river Zinzel, which falls into the Saar. Be-
ing an important pafs, becauſe of its fituation on
the frontiers of Germany, it was well fortified by
Lewis XIV, who built here a ftrong citadel, fo
that it is able to maintain a long fiege.
*
XII. SAVERNE.
Saverne, by the Germans called Zabern, is a
fmall town of Germany, in the landgraviate of
Alface, in eaft longitude 7. latitude 48. 30. It
is thought to be Antonin's Taberna, one of the
old Roman garrifons, demoliſhed by the ancient
Germans, and rebuilt by Julian the apoftate.
It is fituated at the foot of a mountain, on the
river Soor, which fills the ditches on one fide
and on the other there is a great morafs, that
contributes to the ftrength of the place. There
is only one great ſtreet in the town, filled with
houſes that are painted on the out-fide, and in-
habited by wealthy merchants. On the top of a
high-rock ftands a ftrong caſtle, to which there
is only a narrow paffage cut out of the rock by
one of the bishops of Strafburg, who ufually kept
their refidence in this town, and a court of judi-
cature for determining caufes in their diocefe.
Before the great church there is a ſquare with a
handſome fountain. The town-houſe, the biſhop
of Straßburg's palace, and that of the governor,
are the principal buildings worth feeing. The
neighbouring
through FRANCE.
197
neighbouring hills are full of vineyards, which
produce excellent wine.
XIII. STRASBURG.
Strafburg is a city of Germany, in the circle of Straſburg.
the Upper Rhine, and capital of the landgraviate
of Alface, in east longitude 7. 35. latitude 48.
38. It is a large populous town, pleaſantly fi-
tuated in the middle of a fine plain, at the con-
flux of the rivers Ill and Breufch, which a mile
below fall into the Rhine. Frederic II. made it
an imperial city, in which ftate it continued till
1682, when it was treacheroufly furprized by
the French, and afterwards it was confirmed to
that crown together with the reft of Alface by the
treaty of Ryfwic. 'Tis the fee of a bishop, who
is fuffragan of Mentz, and has the greatest re-
venue of any prelate in France. Upon the re-
formation the bifhops and canons were expelled,
and there was only one little church left for the
Roman Catholics; but when it fell into the hands
of the French, they reſtored the Romish religion
together with the bifhops and canons; though
they ftill tolerate the Proteftants of this city.
They have alfo an univerfity, founded in 1538,
by the Proteftant magiftrates, aad endowed with
great privileges by Ferdinand II.
The river Ill which paffes through the middle
of the town, divides it into two parts, called the
old and new. Over this river there are two
ftone-bridges, and four of wood. The town is
of a very large circumference, ftrongly fortified
with walls and out works. The citadel confits
of five baſtions and five half moons, with feveral
other works all contrived by Marſhal Vauban.
But the principal ftrength of Strafburg confifts in
the numerous and impregnable forts raiſed for its
defence
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The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
1
defence by Lewis XIV, on the banks of the
Rhine. The ftreets are large, and the houſes
extremely well built, infomuch that thoſe of the
magiftrates and merchants are fit to entertain
princes. The number of inhabitants is reckoned
forty five thoufand, part Proteftants and part
Roman Catholics, though the latter feem to have
now the majority. The cathedral dedicated to
our Lady, is one of the wonders of Germany, and
perhaps the fineſt Gothic building in Europe. The
portal is quite magnificent, being adorned with
figures like Notre Dame at Paris; and at the weſt
end there is a pair of folding gates of brafs. The
high altar built by Cardinal Furftemberg, is ex-
tremely beautiful, fituated at the entrance of the
choir, and ſtanding quite alone, fo that it may
be ſeen on all fides. The tower reckoned by
fome the higheſt in the whole world, is built in
the form of a pyramid. It is 489 feet and 8
inches high, curioufly built of carved ftone, and
has 662 fteps from bottom to top. But that
which is most admired, is the great clock, finifhed
in 1574, by the famous Habrecht at the charge
of the magiftrates. In this clock there is a ce-
leftial globe, with all the motions of the planets
and fixt ſtars; behind which is a perpetual al-
manack, wherein the day of the month is pointed
out by a flatue. The hours are crowed by a gilt
cock, and then ftruck on a bell by an angel;
near to whom ftands another angel, with an
hour-glafs in his hand, which he turns as foon as
the clock has done ftriking. The first quarter is
ftruck by a child with an apple, the fecond by a
young man with an arrow, the third by a full-
aged man with a tip-ſtaff, and the fourth by an
old man with his cane. On the outſide of the
church are fhewn the increaſe and decreaſe of
the moon, with the motion of the fun through
all
through FRANCE.
199
all the figns of the Zodiac. They have in this
town feveral other handfome churches, befides
fix convents, three of men and three of women.
The town-houſe is a large fquare edifice ter-
minated by two advanced pavilions, the front of
which is ornamented with ancient paintings;
the infide anfwers in every reſpect its external
beauty. The epifcopal palace, as well as thofe
of the governor and the intendant, are worth fee-
ing; as alfo the city hofpital, and that of the gar-
rifon, the latter of which is very little inferior to
the royal hofpital of invalids at Paris. We
fhould not forget the anatomical amphitheatre,
the public granaries, and the arfenal,
ex-
tremely well provided with military flores, and
remarkable for preferving the armour in which
the great Gustavus Adolphus king of Sweden was
killed at the battle of Lutzen. The theatre is
handſome ftructure, and extremely commodious,
especially in cafe of fire, by reafon of the great
number of doors. The inhabitants have imbibed
pretty much the French manners; the women in
general are very handfome, but fomewhat whim-
fical in their drefs. The adjacent country is ex-
tremely pleaſant, abounding with delightful walks,
and handſome country houfes. In fummer there
it a great refort of company to a place in the neigh-
hourhood, called the Green-tree, where there is
variety of all manner of diverfions. In the
neighbourhood of Strafburg they have a wooden
bridge over the Rhine, about half a mile long.
The ftage coach from Straßburg to Paris, fets
out from S. John's ftrect on Tuesday morning.
You pay fifty-five livres for your paffage, and
five fous per pound for baggage.
From Strafburg you pais over into Suabia, by Road from
the way of Brifac, or you may proceed to Bafil Strofburg to
and Geneva by the route pointed out in the fe- Brijac.
K 4
cond
200
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
cond volume of this work, p. 321, or you may
defcend the Rhine to Mentz and Cologne. The
poft road from Straßburg to Brifac is as follows.
From Straßburg to Feggersheim, poft and a half:
From Feggersheim to Benfield, poft and a half:
From Benfield to Scheleftat, poft and a half: From
Scheleftat to Guemack, poft: From Guemack to
Colmar, poft: From Colmar to Brifac, poft.
The places worth notice in this route are, Schele-
fat, Colmar, and Brifac, the latter has been al-
ready defcribed in the fecond volume, p. 330.
Scheleftat. Scheleftat is a town of Germany, in the circle of
the Upper Rhine, and landgraviate of Alface, in
eaft longitude 7. 30. latitude 48. 17. The town
is fmall but neatly built, and extremely well for-
tified. It was formerly an imperial city, but
taken by the French, and yielded to them by the
Colmar, treaty of Munfter. Colmar is a town of Germany,
in the province of Alface, and circle of the Upper
Rhine, in eaft longitude 7. 14. latitude 48. 6.
This is the capital of the Upper Alface, pleaſantly
fituated on the river Ill, and honoured with the
refidence of the fupreme council of the pro-
vince.
Toul.
Remarkable places in the Second Route from
Paris to Strafburg.
We have obferved that this route is the fame
as the preceding, till you come to Chalons, where
you turn to the right, and the firſt place of note
you come to is
I. TOUL.
Toul is a city of Lorrain, in eaſt longitude 5. 42.
latitude 48 45. It is fituated on the river Mofelle,
but has no other fortifications than a fingle wall.
The
through FRANCE.
201
•
The town is pretty large, and the feat of a
biſhop, who has the title of count, and is fuffra-
gan of the archbishop of Triers.
II. NANCY.
Nancy is the capital city of Lorrain in Ger- Nang,
many, in eaft longitude 6. latitude 48. 44. It is
fituated in a large plain, near the river Meurte,
and divided into two parts, the upper called the
old town, and the lower called the new. The old
town is feparated from the other by ditches and
fortifications, and tho' the leaft of the two, is much
the beſt peopled. It contains the duke's palace,
which has a magnificent entrance, leading to a
fair court, furrounded with piazza's, and adorned
with large towers, with figures and baſſo relievo's.
One of the towers ferves for an arfenal, and the
reft for ftair-cafes. The gardens about it are ex-
ceeding fine. In this part of the town ſtands like-
wife the parish church of S. Epurus, with a handſome
fquare before it. The new town is much larger
than the old, and better built; it has a fine fquare
with ftately buildings, and opens to three large
ftreets. In this part are the courts of judicature,
the town-houſe, feveral churches and monafteries,
and a fine college of Jefuits. This town was
well fortified when the French were mafters of
it in the last century, but upon their being obliged
to relinquish it by the treaty of Ryfwic, the for-
tifications were demolished. By the treaty of
Vienna between France and the emperor Charles VI,
the dutchy of Lorrain was fettled for life upon
Stanislaus, father to the prefent queen of France,
and to devolve to this crown upon the death of
that prince.
-K 5
III, LUNE-
202
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Luneville.
III. LUNE VILLE.
Luneville is a fmall town of Lorrain, in eaſt
longitude 6. 26. latitude 48. 36. fituated in a very
pleaſant part of the country, but containing no-
thing that merits a more particular defcription.
From hence there occurs nothing remarkable till
you come to Sarreburg, which place, with the
o her towns as far as Strafburg, have been de-
fcribed in the preceeding route.
T
CHA P. V.
Journey from Paris to Bafil.
HERE are two different routes from Paris
to Bafil; the firſt, which is likewiſe the
fhorteft, by Langres, and the fecond by Dijon
and Befançon. Again, there are two routes to
Dijon, the first and fhorteft is that which we have
already given in this volume, p. 116; the fecond
is by Langres. There is a ftage coach from
Paris to Bifançon, Dole, and other parts of
Franche Comté or the county of Burgundy, which
fets out from the Hotel de Sens, in fummer on
Fridays, and on Thurſdays in winter, at fix in the
morning, and goes through Dijon. It is nine
days on the road in fummer, and eleven in win-
ter; each paffenger pays forty-two livres as far as
Befançon, and four fous per pound for his baggage.
There is another coach that fets out from the
fame place for Dijon on Mondays and Wedneſdays
in fummer, and on Mondays and Thurfdays in
winter. Each paffenger pays thirty livres for his
perfon, and three fous per pound for his baggage.
From
through FRANCE.
203
Each
From Besançon to Paris the coach ſets out from
Rue S. Vincent oppofite the feminary on Wedneſ-
days in fummer, and Tueſdays in winter.
paffenger pays thirty-fix livres for his place, and
four fous per pound for his baggage. From Dijon
to Paris the coach fets out on Wedneſdays and
Fridays in fummer, and Mondays and Fridays in
winter; it is feven days on the road in fummer,
and eight in winter.
First route from Paris to Bafil by the way of
Langres.
:
PARIS
Charenton
Gros Bois
BRIE COMTE ROBERT
Guignes
Mormans
Nangis
La Maiſon Rouge
PROVINS
NOGENT SUR SEINEE
Granges
Gres
TROYES
Montieramé
Vandeuvre
BAR-SUR-AUB
Sazemecourt
CHAUMONT
Vefigne
LANGRES
Pofts.
Poſt royal
I
1
I
2
1
1 /
I
I
22
wa min
1½
12 21 22 - 2 2
2
males milcz miei mia
I
플
​1
I
Griffonottes
Fay le Billot
Saintry
Combeau Fontaine
I
K 6
Port
:
1
204
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Port fur Saone
Vefoul
Calmotier
Lure
Ronchamps
Frayet
I
I
I
I
I 플
​I
1
BEFFORT
Chavane
Alkirk
Trois Maiſon
HUNINGUE
BASIL
I
]
I
2
mla mia ma =ļa
I
1 ½
1 1/1/1
In all forty-feven pofts and a half from Paris
to Bafil.
Second route from Paris to Bafil, by the way
of Dijon and Befançon.
We have obſerved that the ſhorteſt way from
Paris to Dijon, is that which has been already
given in this volume, p. 116. The other way is
the fame as the preceding as far as Langres,
wherefore we muſt begin here with the laſt men-
tioned city.
LANGRES
Protboy
Thil
DIJON
Genlis
AUXONNE
DOLE
Orchamps
Saint Vit
BESANÇON
Roulans
Pofts.
2플
​1
222
Hla Ila mia mla
1/1
1
I
I
1 22
Beaums
through FRANCE.
205
·Beaume les Danes
Fontaine
Ofnan
Tavé
BEFFORT.
1 1/
Iz
Iz
1
fa -la
The remainder of this route from Beffort to
Bafil is the fame as the preceding. Thofe who
chuſe to make Montbeliard their way from Be-
fançon to Beffort, muſt take the following route.
BESANÇON
Roulans
Beaume les Dames
Clairval
Saint Maurice
MONTBELIARD
BEFFORT
Pofts
2
1플
​I
mla Hla mia ma
1/21/20
11/1/
From Beffort you may proceed to Straſburg by
the following route.
Beffort
La Chapelle
Cernay
Ruffac
COLMAR
Guemack
Pofts.
1
2
2
I
I
I
I
1 /
'7
Scheleftat
Benfeld
Feygerfheim
STRASBURG
플
​12
Or elfe you may take the following road from
Beffort to Strasburg by Huningen.
BEFFORT
Chavane
Pofts
1 ½
플
​Alkirk
206
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Alkirk
Trois Maiſons
HUNINGEN
Gres Kempt
Otmar fheim
Feflenheim
Biefhiem
Marckelfheim
Sunthaufen
Benfeld
Feygerfheim
2
1 /1/
I
I
1 ½
Iz
mla mia mia mla mia mla mla Hla
ΙΣ
1/21/
1 /
I
1 /1/1
1
I
་
Robert.
STRASBURG.
Remarkable places in the first route from Paris
to Bafil, by Langres.
I. BRIE COUNT ROBERT.
Brie Count Robert is a fmall town of the diftri&t
Brie Count called Brie Françoife, in the ifle of France, fi-
tuated near the river Yere, in a very fruitful
country. The neighbouring parts are full of
gentlemen's feats, which renders it extremely
pleaſant. This town has a court of juftice de-
pending on the Chatelet of Paris, but nothing elſe
worth notice except the parochial church, the great
market-place, and an ancient fort with ditches
and a draw bridge. Before you come to Brie
Count Robert, you pass through the village of
Großbois, where there is a fine feat and park be-
longing to Monf. Chauvelin, and a beautiful mo-
naſtery of the monks of Camaldula. The town
of Charenton in the beginning of this route has
been deſcribed already, p. 150.
-
II. PROVINS.
through FRANCE.
20%
II. PROVINS.
Provins is a town of France, in the province Provinsi
of Champagne, and diftrict of Brie Champenoife,
in eaſt longitude 3. 20. latitude 48. 35. Its fi-
tuation between two mountains, gives it a great
reſemblance, as 'tis faid, to Jerufalem, for which
reaſon they have a kind of mount Calvary,
whither the inhabitants go in pilgrimage. The
town is finall, confifting chiefly of two main ftreets.
It has four parishes, four convents of men, four
of women, and four hofpitals. The priory of
The col-
S. Ayou is remarkable for its treaſure.
legiate church of S. Quiriac, our Lady of Val,
and the abbey of S. James are worth feeing.
Provins is the feat of a bailiwic, a provoſtſhip,
and an election, and was formerly the capital of
the whole country, and the refidence of their
counts; the old caſtle where thefe counts lived,
is ftill exifting. The town is noted for its excel
lent rofes, of which they make a conferve. At
about three miles from Provins, you come to
the foreſt of Sourdun, which continues till you
come within four miles of Nogent fur Seine.
III NOGENT SUR SEINE:
Nogent fur Seine is a ſmall town of France, in Nogent fur
the province of Champagne, and diftrict of Seno- Seine,
nois, in eaft longitude 3. 33. latitude 48. 26. It
is a very pleaſant town, fituated on the river Seine,
There are
over which it has a handſome bridge.
feveral fuburbs belonging to it, and an ifland
called L'Eccluſe, inhabited chiefly by watermen.
Its fituation is very convenient for trade, of
which it enjoys a confiderable fhare. The great
church dedicated to S. Laurence, is remarkable
for
208
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
for the harmony of its chimes; the top of the
ſteeple is very ingeniously built. The Capu-
chins have a convent in the Fauxburg de la Chauf-
fée, at the end of which there is a kind of pool,
called the Nun's Ditch, from the misfortune of
a coach full of nuns who perifhed in this place.
IV. TROYES.
Troyes. Troyes is a city of France, in the province of
Champagne, and capital of the diftrict called
Champagne Proper, in eaſt longitude 4. 5. latitude
48. 15. It is a very ancient town, formerly
known by the name of Auguftomana and Civitas
Tricaffium. It is fituated on the river Seine, in a
very fruitful plain, furrounded alfo with a wall and
fome other old fortifications. The town is large
and pretty well built, and was the refidence of
their first counts, who hence were called counts
of Troyes. 'Tis now the feat of a bishop fuffra-
gan of Sens, a bailiwic, a prefidial, and a cham-
ber of money. The cathedral dedicated to S.
Peter is a fine Gothic building. The front is
adorned with figures and curious ballo-relievo's.
The ſteeple is very high, and remarkable for one
of the largeſt bells in France. Within the church
they have feveral handfome tombs, and one
among the reft in which the body of S. Helena is
faid to be preſerved quite uncorrupted. Net far
from the cathedral ſtands the abbey of S. Lupus,
in which they preferve the head of that faint in a
cafe all covered with diamonds. This S. Lupus
was biſhop of Troyes, and is faid to have appeaſed,
by his very afpeét, the fury of the famous Attila.
The collegiate church of S.Peter, the grand priory,
and the collegiate church of S. Urban, are de-
ferving of notice; the latter is the handfomeſt
church in town next to the cathedral. There are
1
2
A
through FRANCE.
209
PENANDAAN OKTARI TESAATIONALITY AND
ན**"!"""
•
+
a great many religious houfes of men and wo-
men, the moſt remarkable are the Carmelite nuns,
whofe high altar is very beautiful; the Carthu-
fians, the Capuchins, the Cordeliers, the fathers of
the oratory, and the church of S. Mary Magda-
len, noted for a prodigious high fteeple. The -
town-houſe is a handfome building, confifting of
a large front with two wings. Before the gate
ftands a marble ftatue of Lewis XIV, made by
the famous Girardon, a native of this town, to
which he fent it as a prefent. This ftatue is larger
than the life, and accompanied with ſeveral orna-
ments and attributes, by the fame Girardon.
The town is populous, and carries on a very
good trade in linen, of which it has a confiderable
manufacture, as likewife in cloth, toys, and ſmall
Round the town there are pleafant walks,
particularly the mall, which is on the ramparts,
between two rows of trees.
ware.
V. BAR-SUR-AUBE.
Aube.
Ban fur-Aube is a town of Champagne in France, Bar-fur-
in the diſtrict of Baſſigny, in eaſt longitude 4. 40.
latitude 48. 15. This place is fo called from
its fituation on the river Aube, at the foot of a .
pleafant hill. It is very indifferently built, but
remarkable for its excellent wine. In the eleventh
century it had counts of its own, whofe fucceffion
continued about two hundred years, after which it
was united to the rest of Champagne. The parifh
church is in a very bad condition, and fo is the church
of the convent of the Cordeliers out of town.
There is a convent here of Irish Capuchins, who
have a pretty large community, which fubfifts
by the benefactions of the neighbouring country.
About
210
TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The
Clairvaux, About fix miles from hence ftands the abbey of
Clairvaux, in the bottom of a valley furrounded
with woods, famous for being founded by S. Bernard.
The old abbey where this faint lived, is ftill pre-
ferved out of veneration to his memory, but the
monks inhabit a new fpacious building, where the
abbot who is very rich, refides in fplendor. The
abbot's apartment, and the church, are handſome
buildings Strangers are received here with civi-
lity, and fhewn the curiofities of the place.
Chaumont,
Love
Langres.
VI. CHA U MONT.
Chaumont is the capital of the district of Baf-
figny, in Champagne, in eaft longitude 5.. 15. lati-
tude 48. 12. fituated on a hill, which ftretches
to the banks of the Marne. Formerly it had
lords of its own, who fold it to the counts of
Champagne. The principal church is dedicated
to S. John Baptift, and ferved by twelve canons,
who time immemorial have been elected by the
chapter and inhabitants, from families belonging
to the town. The Jefuits have a good college,
and a very elegant church. The nuns of S. Be-
nedict have likewife a handfome church, adorned
with ftatues and other late improvements.
There is an old caftle here, in which the counts
of Champagne formerly refided, as appears by the
halls and chambers ftill remaining, efpecially that
which is call the hall of the young ladies. Chau-
mont is the feat of a bailiwic, a prefidial, and other
fubaltern jurifdictions.
VII. LANGRES.
Langres is a city of France, in the province.
of Champagne, and diftrict of Baffigny, of which
fome reckon it the capital, in eaft longitude 5. 22.
latitude
through FRANCE.
211
latitude 48. It is fituated on a hill near the river
Marne, in the midſt of a pleaſant fruitful country,
just on the confines of Lorrain and Franche
Comté. By the Latins it was called Lingones, and
Andomadunum Lingonum. Its fituation is very
advantageous, but the fortifications are neglect-
ed. The ramparts are covered with a kind of
roof, by which means you may walk round the
town, without being wet in time of rain. Langres
is called the virgin, becauſe they ſay it never was
taken. 'Tis the fee of a biſhop fuffragan. of
Lyons, who is fpiritual and temporal lord of this
city, and one of the three ecclefiaftical dukes and
peers of France. There is a pretty large fquare
in the town, to which they have given the name
of Champo. As you enter this fquare you fee two
parochial churches, of S. Amat and S. Martin;
and not far from thence the houfe of the fathers
of the oratory, and afterwards the epiſcopal pa-
lace. The cathedral dedicated to S. Martin, is
a fine Gothic building, but a little too dark; it
has too steeples, and feveral confiderable tombs,
and among the reft a very fine one of Cardinal
De Chevry. But the chief of all the tombs is.
that of the three children, who were maffacred
in the infancy of the church of Langres. In the
choir you fee feveral ftones, which were anciently
made uſe of in Pagan facrifices. Divine fervice is
performed in this church almoſt in the fame man-
ner as in the cathedral of Lyons. The church of
S. Peter, not far from the cathedral, is one of
the principal parishes of Langres, and remarkable
for a handſome ſteeple. The Jefuits have a fine
church and college; and the religious people of
both fexes have pretty good houfes. The town-
houſe has nothing worth particular notice. Juft
under the town there is a large fountain, which
fupplies the inhabitants with water. Langres is
famous
བ"་
1
212
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
famous for cutler's ware; and is likewife the feat
of a prefidial, and bailiwic, which depend upon.
the parliament of Paris. From Langres, you
meet with nothing worth notice till you come to
Vefoul, a little neat city of Franche Comté, thirty-
three miles north from Befançon. The next
place of any note you come to is Lure, a famous
abbey on the river Ougnon. From thence you
meet with nothing remarkable till you come
to
VIII. BE F FORT.
Beffort. Beffort is a fmall town of Alface, in eaft longi-
tude 7. latitude 47. 35. fituate at the foot
of mount Vauge, on the frontiers of Swifferland,
and the county of Burgundy. It is divided into
the old and new town, has a good caftle on an
eminence, and is pretty well fortified. After hav-
ing had counts of its own, it fell to the houſe of
Auftria, and was ceded together with Alface to
France in 1648, by the treaty of Munster.
The remainder of the remarkable places in
this route, viz. Huningen and Bafil, have been
deſcribed in the fecond volume of this work,
P. 33I.
Remarkable places in the fecond route from
Paris to Bafil, by Dijon and Befançon.
This route is the fame as the preceding, as far
as Langres, which has been just now deſcribed.
From Langres there occurs nothing worthy of de-
ſcription, till you come to Dijon, of which city
we have already given a defcription in this vo-
lume, p. 143; fo that the firft place we have
here to begin with is
1. AUXONNE.
through FRANCE.
213
I. AUXONNE.
Auxonne is a fmall town of Burgundy in France, Auxonne.
in the diſtrict of Dijonois, in eaft longitude 5.
22. latitude 47. 15. It is pleaſantly fituated on
the river, and ſurrounded with a few old fortifi-
cations. Formerly it had lords of its own, and
ſerved as a barrier to France, before the conqueſt
of Franche Comté. It is now the feat of a baili-
wic with the title of a viſcounty, and has ſome con-
vents, with a pretty good hofpital. The church
of our Lady, the caftle, and the bridge, are the
principal things worth notice.
II. DOLE.
Dole is a city of France, in the province of Dole.
Franche Comté, and capital of the bailiwic of Dole,
in eaft longitude 5. 25. latitude 47. 10.
It is a
very ancient town pleaſantly ſituated on the river
Doux, in a fruitful country. Formerly it was
the capital of the county, and the ordinary
refidence of the parliament and univerfity, which
have been fince transferred to Befançon. 'Tis
ftill the feat of a bailiwic, and a chamber of ac-
counts. The ftreets of Dole are wide and regular,
and filled with handfome edifices, eſpecially the
ſtreets of Fripapat, Besançon, Eſchevannes, Greaux,
and the old market. Among thefe edifices, the
moſt worthy of notice are the palace in which
the parliament uſed formerly to meet, a mag-
nificent and well furniſhed ftructure, the pa-
lace of the chamber of accounts, the houſe which
belonged to the univerſity, the college of S. Jerom,
and eſpecially that of the Jefuits. The church of our
Lady, is the moſt conſiderable in town, fituated
on an eminence, which makes its ſteeple appear
at
214
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Befançon.
at a very great diſtance. The high altar is a-
dorned with fine pillars and beautiful ftatues of
marble. There are feveral religious houfes of men
and women worth feeing. Among the antiquities
of Dole, they reckon the fquare des Arenes, where
the Romans formerly exhibited their public fpec-
tacles and combats. Near the river you may ftill
ſee the remains of a fine palace they built, with
feveral large towers. Not far from the fountain
of Gougeans, there are two aqueducts of the fame
time. They likewiſe built ſeveral temples in the
neighbourhood of Dole, in places where there
are at prefent villages which go by their names,
as that of Joue, and others along the hills, planted
with vines, which form the valley of Love. At
Joue they have fprings of mineral waters, which
are very much eſteemed in that country.
III. ВE S AN ÇON.
Befançon is the capital of Franche Comté in
Situation. France, in eaft longitude 6. latitude 47. 20.
Antiquity. This is a very ancient city, called by the Latins
Vefuntio, and by fome hiftorians Chryfopolis, and
much efteemed by the Romans, as appears by
what Cæfar fays of it in his Commentaries. It
is fituated on the river Doux,
into two parts, one of which is
and the other the lower town.
which divides it.
called the high,
The largeſt part
forms a peninfula, watered by the abovemen-
Fortifications tioned river. The town is furrounded by a
ftrong wall and other fortifications; the entrance
of the peninfula is defended by a high mountain,
on which they have built a ftrong citadel. This
citadel, which commands the whole town, ftands
on a ſteep rock, at the extremity of the biggeſt
part of Besançon, which the river furrounds in
the form of a horſe fhoe. It confifts of an ob-
long
3
through FRANCE.
215
long fquare, flanked with four irregular baſtions,
the ground being too uneven to admit of re-
gular works; but it is commanded by the
mountain Chaudaine on the other fide of the ri-
ver.
Over againſt the citadel, there is a fort cal-
led Griffon, confifting only of one fortified baftion.
The treets of Befançon are large and regular,
the houſes well-built of free-ftone, and covered
with flate, eſpecially near the ſquare of Battan,
which is adorned with a fountain that fpouts out
water from a figure of Bacchus. You pafs the
river Doux on a ftone-bridge to go to the other
fide of Besançon, and the first place you come to
is the market. Going from thence to the left,
you ſee a great fquare adorned with another
fountain, where the great ſtreet begins which tra-
verſes all this part of the town, from the bridge of
S. John the Great.
Buildings,
Besançon is the fee of an archbiſhop, who has the Seat of an
title of prince of the empire; and is alfo the feat archbishop.
of a parliament or chief tribunal of the province;
and of an univerfity, founded by the emperor
Ferdinand I. in 1564. The cathedral dedicated Churches.
to S. John, ftands at the foot of mount S. Stephen,
and is reckoned a handſome building. The great
altar is placed in the middle of the choir, over a
cave in which they preferve the bodies of feveral
faints. The altar dedicated to the Virgin, is
remarkable for a very beautiful picture. In this
church there are feveral tombs of dukes, pala-
tines, and counts of Burgundy. The town is
very populous, and has feven parish churches,
two chapters, two abbeys of men and two of
women, a feminary, a college of Jeſuits, feven
convents of friars, five of nuns, an hofpital for
the education of poor children, and another ge-
neral ho'pital, which is faid to be a magnificent
building. The church of the Carmelites, the
chapel
216
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Town-houſe
chapel of the Virgin, and the tomb of Altenau
are worth notice, as alfo the fountain of Neptune
oppoſite the church.
The parliament was transferred from Dole to
this city in 1676, and the univerſity was re-
moved hither in 1691; the grand college be-
longs to the Jefuits, and the archbishop is chan-
cellor of the univerfity. This city is likewife the
feat of a bailiwic, a prefidial, and court of money.
The town-houfe ftands in the new fquare, and
is a very handfome building of four wings, which
furround a fquare court.
Before it you ſee a
brazen ftatue of the emperor Charles V, with a
globe in one hand and a ſword in the other, with
theſe words on the top, Would to God! The im-
perial eagle raiſes itſelf over a large bafon, into
which it pours water from both its bills. The
Falaces. governor's palace is the largest and moft magnifi-
cent of the province. The fountain you fee a
little further, is adorned with the figure of a
naked woman, fitting down and ſpouting water
out of her nipples. The palace of Cardinal Gran-
ville is a very handfome building, furniſhed with
great variety of excellent ftatues and pictures,
and a library containing abundance of valuable
manuſcripts and books.
Antiquities.
Befançon is remarkable for ſeveral monuments
of antiquity, within and without the town. After
you have paffed the church of our Lady, and the
oppofite fquare, you meet with a triumphal arch
erected in honour of the emperor Aurelian,
on which you may fee feveral figures of men
and animals. This triumphal arch ferves for
a gate to the cloyſter of S. John the Great.
The mountain Chandane, on the other fide of
the river, is a place where formerly they facrificed
to Diana, which made them give it this name,
being as it were Campus Diana. There are ftill
the
through FRANCE.
217
the remains of a Pantheon, which the inhabitants
call The Pillars; likewife the remains of a great
aqueduct; and ſeveral places in the neigbourhood
that have taken their names from the encamp-
ments of the ancient Romans, as Chamars, as
much as to fay, Campus Martis: Chamufe,
Campus Mufarum: Chailla, Campus Lunæ, &c.
From Besançon to Beffort you meet with no
place worth notice; but for the fake of thoſe
who chufe in going to Beffort to pass through
Montbeliard, we fhall give here a deſcription of
this laſt city.
IV. MONTBELIARD,
Montbeliard is the capital of a county of that Montbeliard.
name, in Franche Compté, in east longitude 6. 45.
latitude 47. 35. It is fituated on the frontiers of
Alface and Franche Comté, at the foot of a rock,
on which there is a very ftrong citadel. The
town likewife is well fortified, being covered on
one fide by the river Halle or Allaine, which
falls a little lower into the Doux. On the other
fide it is defended with high ramparts, large bafli-
ons, and deep ditches which are filled with the
water of the above-mentioned river Halle. The
town within-fide is no great matter, confifling of
only two or three ftreets, which run in a direct
line from the gate of Bazil to that of Pefoul.
The houſes are generally of free ftone, and three
or four ftories high. Thi-city, with the coun-
ty of the fame name twenty-two miles long, and
twelve broad, belonged till very lately to
prince of the family of Wirtemberg. Upon his death
without iffue, the French feized it as a ficf
of Franche Comté; but as the duke of Virtem-
bung lays claim to it as the next heir, 'tis yet un-
certain how the affair will be decided. With-
VOL. IV.
L
a
out
+
218
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
out the city there are fine groves and gardens,
the chief of which is the prince's garden of plea-
fure, with a handfome fummer-houſe, and all
manner of rare plants and herbs. The inhabi-
tants both of the city and country are of the re-
formed religion.
CHAP. VI.
Journey from Paris to Madrid and
Liſbon, by the way of Bourdeaux
and Bayonne.
THE
HERE are two different roads from Paris
to Madrid; the first and fhorteft is by
Bourdedux and Bayonne; the fecond, but longeft
about, is by Narbonne and Perpignan ; the first we
fhall give in this chapter, the fecond in the next.
There are likewife two different roads to Bour-
deaux, one is the poft road, and the other that
which is uſed by the Stage-Coach. The ſtage-
coach fets out from Paris to Bourdeaux and Bay-
orme, on Tuesdays at fix in the morning, from the
Rue Contrefcarpe. Paffengers pay fixty livres for
their place as far as Bourdeaux, and five fous
per
pound for baggage. Thofe that take places for
Bayonne, pay four ſcore livres, and feven fous per
pound for baggage.
The
through RANCE.
2.19
The Poft route from Paris to Bourdeaux
and Bayonne.
PARIS
Pofts
Bourg de la Reine
Poſt royal
Longjumeau
1 ½
Linas
I
Arpajon
I
Estrechy
2
ESTEMPES
I
Mondefir
I
Monerville
I
Angerville
I
Boiffeau
I
Toury
I
Chateau Gaillard
I
Artenay
I
Sercottes
1/4/
ORLEANS
1/
/* Hjm
S. MESMIN
I
CLERY
I
Troix Cheminées
S. Laurent des eaux
Nouant
I
I
I
Saint Dié
BLOIS
Montils
I
2
11/11
Sanbin
I
Pontlevoy
I
Montrichard
Ι
Senelle
I
Liege
S. Quentin
LOCHES
I
I
Varennes
I
S. Cyran
I
L 2
Ligueuil
220
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Ligueuil
I
Sigogne
LA HAYE
I
I
Danger
I
INGRANDE
I
CHATELLERAUD
I
Barres de Naintre
I
Tricherie
I
Clan
I
Grand Pont
I
POITIERS
Ruffigny
VIVONNE
Minieres
Coué
Chaunay
Sauzay
Bannieres
Villefagnan
Fond des Marais
Aigre
Gourville
I
1 ½
I
I
I
I
Iz
I
1
I
I
I
S. Cibardeau
Villars Marangé
Chateau-neuf
Nonaville
BARBESIEUX
Reignac
La Grolle
Chenonceau
I
1½
1/2/
I
वू
1/2/2
I
I
Montlieu
I
Cherzac
I
Pierre Brune
I
Cavignac
I
Boiſmartin
I
Cubfac
Carbonblanc
I
I
BOURDEAUX
I
Gradignan
through FRANCE.
221
Gradignan
Leftaule
Gubatte
Barc
L'Hôpitalet
7
Belain
I
I
I
I
I
Muret
Hifpotey
Bouhaire
Fanquillet
La Haire
L' Epron
Caflet
Mageft
I
I
1 /1/
I
21
1 ½
1 플
​Mons
I
S. Vincent
I
La Cabanne
I
Hondres
BAYONNE
플
​L 3
Route
222
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Engliſh miles from one place to another.
Route by the fage-coach from Paris to Bour-
deaux and Bayonne.
B. fignifies the place where you ftop to take a
Buvette, as the French call it, or a cup of re-
frefhment; D. the place where you flop to
dine; S. where you fup.
PARIS
6. B.
Seaux
6
18. S.
Daphin
24
18. D.
ESTEMPES
42
18. B. Angerville
60
12. S.
Thoury
72
21. B.
Sercottes
93
9. D.
ORLEANS.
102
12. S.
Clery
114
1. B.
S. Laurent des eaux 126
12. D.
S. Dié
138
12. S.
BLOIS
150
18. D.
Veuve
168
12. S.
AMBOISE
180
6. D.
Bleré
186
9. S.
Faux
195
9. D.
Mantelan
204
12. S.
Port de Pile
216
12. D.
Chatelicraut
228
9. S.
Thricherie
237
6. D.
Clan
243
6. S.
POITIERS
249
15. D.
12. S.
Lufigran
264
Chenay
270
9. D.
S Leger
284
6. B.
Briou
291
6. S. Ville Dieu
297
9. D.
Faraife
306!
English
Engliſh miles from Paris.
through FRANCE.
223
Engliſh miles from on
place to another.
19. S. Efcoyeux
3157
9. D. SAINTES
324
12. S.
Pont
336
12. D. Petit Niort
348
6. S.
S. Aubin
9. B. Blaye
354
363
The coach ſtops at Blaye, and
goes no further; wherefore the
paffengersare obliged to take water
for themſelves and their baggage,
as far as Bourdeaux, boats being
always ready for that purpoſe.
Engliß miles from Paris.
21.
S.
BOURDEAUX
384
12. S.
Caftres
396
12. D.
Langon
408
9. S.
Bolac
417
9. D.
Marcife
426
12. S.
Voquefort
12. D.
438.
Mont de Marfaro 450
12. S.
Tartas
462
L 15. D. Dax
477J
•
At Dax the coach ftops and goes no further;
fo that you muſt either take horſes from thence to
Bayonne, or go by water.
With horſes the route
is thus From Dax to S. Vincent, twelve miles;
from S. Vincent to Hondres twelve miles
from Hondres to Bayonne, twelve miles. By
water, the paffage is twenty-one miles; and
there are boats always ready for Paffengers.
;
Route from Bayonne to Madrid and Lifbon.
Thoſe that propofe going from Paris to Lisbon,
the directeft way by land, have no occafion to go
to Madrid; their bufinefs is when they come to
Burgos,
L 4
224
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Burgos, to proceed on directly to Valladolid, and
leave Madrid on the left. Wherefore we ſhall
give here firft the route to Lisbon by the way of
Madrid, for thofe whom curiofity or bufinefs
may lead to the laft mentioned city; and fecond-
ly, we fhall give the direct route from Burges to
Liſbon by the way of Valladolid.
place to another.
Engliſh miles from one
{
BAYONNE
9. Bidars
9
9.
S. JEAN DE Luz
18
6. Orogne
24
18. Iron
32
16. S. SEBASTIAN
48
8. Ournietta
56
12. Tolofa
68
12. Villa Franca
80
12. Semega
92
12. Galleretta
104
10. Andicava
12, VICTORIA
12. La Puebla
12. MIRANDA
8. Mehingo
12. Senoveda
114
126
138
150
158
170
8. Bibiera
178
8. Caftel de Poenes
186
12. Quintanapaglia
198
English miles from Bayonne.
12. BURGOS
210
8. Saracin
218
12. Madrigaleja
226
8. Lerma
238
12. Cahabon
246
16. ARANDA
258
16. Orombia
274
12. Freſnilio
290
L10, Caftilletta
302J
Englif
through FRANCE.
225
place to another.
English miles from one
[ 12. Somanfiera
312
16. Cavariellas
328
12. S. Agostino
340
12. Alcovindas
352
12. MADRID
364
8. Xetafe
372
10. La Marganilla
382
10. Illescas
392
8. Junquillos
400
4. La Venta
404
4. Cabannas
408
4. Olias
412
4.
La Venta del Premutor
416
4. TOLEDO
420
8. Las Ventas Elinen
428
8. Boirugion
436
8. La Matta
444
8. Cebolla
452
12. La Venta Albergue
404
4. Talavera
468
28. Oropefa
496
8. La Calzada
504
12. Valparifo
516
English miles from Bayonne.
4. Naval Moral
520
4. Almaraz
524
8. Lavarcas de Alballas
532
8. Las cafus del Povero
540
8. Larizetto
548
4. La Venta de Lanadera
552
28. Caceres
580
4. Al Partida
584
6. La Lifeda
590
8. La Fenta del Tejarejo
590
8. ALBUQUERQUE
606
16. Runges
622
8. Montfort
630
18. Veros
638j
L 5
English
t
£26
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
"
Engliſh miles from one place to
another.
f 8. Afremos
6467
12. La Venta del Duque
658
12. Royuelos
670
12. Monteamor
682
8. Venta la Laja
690
4. Venta la Silvera
694
4. Venta la Reyna
698
12.
Venta la Vica
710
4. Venta Laydero
714
E. Rio Frio
722
12. Aldea Gallega
734
L12.
12. LISBON
746J
Engliſh miles from Bayonne.
The direct route from Bayonne to Liſbon.
The direct way from Bayonne to Lisbon, is
when you come to Burgos, to leave the road to
Madrid on the left hand, and fo proceed to Val-
ladolid, and from thence to Albuquerque, &c.
Engliſh miles from one place to another.
r
ཟ༽
BURGOS
8. Quintanilleja
8. Celada
า
8
16
4. Villa nueva de las Carreras 20
8. La Venta de Villamarco
8. La Venta del Moral
4. Quintara la puente
8. Torquemada
8. Magaz
4. Duennas
28
36
40
48
56
4. Venta de Rebollar.
60
64
8. Las Ventas
72
8. Cabeçon
80
8. VALLADOLID
88
8. La Puente de Duero
96
8. Valdeftillas
104
18. La Ventofa.
112
English miles from Bayonne.
English
through FRANCE.
227
English miles from one place to another.
4. Rodillana
4. MEDINA DEL CAMPO 120
1167:
6. La Golofa
126
12. Carpio
138
6. Fresno
144
4. Camra la Piedra
148
8. El Aldea
156
8: Las Villorias
166
8. Alva
174
12.
La Maya
186
12.
Ginguelo
198
4.
La Venta
202
16. La Calzada
12. Bannos
218
230
8. Aldea nueva
238
12. Las Ventas de Caparra.
250
12.
Carcavolo
262
4. El Adebuela:
266
4. Ventas de la Barranca
270
8. Olguera
278
8. El Cannaveral
286
8.. Las Barcas de Alconeta
294
8. Venta del Camerero
302
8. Arroyo el puerco
310
8. La Lifeda
318
8. La Venta del tejarejo
3261
334J
8. ALBURQUERQUE
The remainder of the route to Lifton is the
fame as in the preceding.
L.6
Remarkable
Engliſh miles from Bayonne.
228
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Efempes
Orleans.
Remarkable places in the first route from Paris
to Bayonne.
Leaving Paris you meet with nothing worth
notice till you come to Eftempes, a fmall town
in the province of the ifle of France, in eaſt
longitude 2. 15. latitude 48. 25. It is fituated
on the river fuine, in the middle of pleafant
meadows, and vineyards. The great church,
the collegiate of our Lady, and S. Martin, are
the principal buildings. There is likewife an an-
cient Caftle, whofe foundations are faid to have
been laid by Robert the First.
I. ORLEANS.
Orleans is a city of France, capital of the pro-
vince of Orleanois, fituated on the river Loire, in
eaſt longitude 2. latitude 47. 55. This is a very
ancient city, originally founded, as 'tis faid, by
the Druids, and beautified by the Emperor Au-
relian, who gave it the name of Aurelianum.
'Tis now one of the largeſt and pleaſanteſt cities.
in France, the fee of a biſhop, fuffragan of Paris,
and gives title of duke to the first prince of the
blood. Its fituation reſembles that of London, for
it is on the north fide of the river, on the de-
clivity of a hill; the buildings reach down to
the water fide, and the town winding with
the river, is much longer than broad. The
ſtreets are neat and broad, eſpecially the high
street, which runs the whole length of the
town, and is adorned with handfome build-
ings. There are ſeveral ſpacious market-places,
ſhaded with trees; and the houſes in general are
fair and beautiful, though ancient.
The town
is fortified after the ancient way, and has eight
gates.
through FRANCE.
229
1
gates. The cathedral is a fine Gothic ftructure,
remarkable for one of the handfomeft and higheſt
fteeples in Europe. The town-houfe is a noble
ftructure, with a lofty tower, from whence there
is a pleaſant view of the country. The palace
of juftice is likewife a good edifice. There are
twenty-two parishes in the town, and a great
number of religious houfes of men and women.
There is a large handfome ftone bridge of fixteen
arches over the river to one of the fuburbs,
which ſtands upon an ifland. Upon this bridge,
which is 170 fathoms long, ftands a brazen ſtatue
of the bleffed Virgin, with king Charles VII.
kneeling on one fide of her, and Joan of Arc,
called the Maid of Orleans, on the other, defigned
to perpetuate the ftory of the deliverance of that
city by the addrefs of this heroine. There is
an iſland joined to the town by the above-
mentioned bridge, and adorned with walks of trees
and fine buildings. They have an univerfity
here, which is reforted to chiefly for the ftudy of
law. No other city in France, at fuch a diftance
from the fea, has fo brifk a trade, having an op-
portunity of exporting and importing all manner
of merchandize, by the way of Nants and the
weſtern ocean; and on the other hand they have
a communication by the Seine and the Loire with
moft of the northern and fouthern provinces of
France. The air of this city is very good, the
inhabitants affable and polite, and remarkable for
fpeaking French in its full perfection. This
city is alfo the feat of a generality, a prefidial, a
bailiwic, and a chamber of money. The ad-
jacent country is extremely pleafant, being inter-
ſperſed with vineyards, meadows, orchards, and
arable ground.
From Orleans you proceed to S. Mefmin, a S. Mfmin.
ſmall town on the Loire, remarkable for a fa-
mous
The TRAVELLER'S GUTUE
१
230
Clary. mous abbey. From thence you go to Clery, a
fmall town of the Orleanois, celebrated for the
collegiate church of our Lady, which was re-
built and confiderably enriched by Lewis XI.
who is here interred in a ftately Monument. The
next place worth notice you come to, is
Blois,
II. BLOIS.
Blais is the capital of the territory of Blaifois,
in the province of Orleanois in France; in eaft.
longitude 1.20. latitude 47. 35. This is one of the
pleaſanteft cities in France, agreeably fituated on
the declivity of a hill, on the north bank of the
river Loire, and furrounded with a moſt beautiful
fertile country. Over the river there is a hand-
fome ftone-bridge, which joins the fuburb called
Vienne to the town. On the bridge there is an
infcription, fhewing that Henry IV. rebuilt it,.
in 1598. The caftle of Blois, where fome of the
French kings have kept their courts, is a fumptuous
building, begun by Lewis XII. and finiſhed by fuc-
ceeding princes. The pictures in the apartments,.
the gardens,. the gallery between the two gardens,.
the water-works, ftatues, tennis-court, park, &c.
are well worth feeing. The town-houfe is a hand-
fome building; as likewife the cathedral dedicated
to S. Stephen, and fituated in the higheſt part of the
town. There are feveral other churches and con-
vents, but none of them remarkable for any particu-
lar curiofity. They have the remains of a Roman
aqueduct, into which three men may ride a-.
breaft. At a village called Orchefe, about fix
miles from the town, the ruins of arches and thick
walls, are to be ſeen, which the inhabitants take
for the remains of Cafar's magazines. Blois is
the fee of a bishop, and the feat of a chamber of
accounts
through FRANCE.
231
accounts, and a prefidial. The Palais or court
of juftice is a very ancient building. The bons
Gretiens pears, and Perdrigon plumbs of Blois, are
much valued; and here alfo the French tongue
is fpoke in its greatest purity.
Thoſe who have a mind to make Amboife their Road from
way to Louche, muft go from Bicis to Chouzy, Blois to Am-
boife.
poſt and a half; from Chouzy to Veuve, poft;
from Feuve to Haut Chantier, poft; from Haut
Chantier to Amboife, poft. In the deſcription of
the towns in the next route, we fhall give fome
account of Amboife. From Amboife you go to
Bleré, poſt; from Bleré to Sublaine, poſt; from
Sublaine to S. Quentin, poft; from S. Quentin
to Loches, poft.
III. LOCHES.
Loches is a town of France, in the province of Lerbes,
Orleanois, and territory of Tourrain, in eaſt lon.
gitude 1. 5. latitude 47. 10. This town is plea-
fantly fituated on the declivity of a hill, on the
river Indre, within eighteen miles of Tours. It
is remarkable for a royal caftle, fortified with
towers and bulwarks. This caftle has been
often made a prifon for criminals of ſtate ; for
here Lewis XI. imprifoned Cardinal Balue, and
here alfo Lewis XII. imprifoned Lewis Sforza,
duke of Milan, till he died. The collegiate
church of our Lady, within the inclofure of the
caftle, is a beautiful ftructure, remarkable for its
feeple, the portal, and for the tomb of Agnes
Sorel, the fairest woman in her time, and mif-
treſs to Charles VII. On the eaft fide of the caſtle,
is the royal apartment called Les Salles, built by
Lewis XI. The profpect from hence is very beau-
tiful, being terminated on one fide by the fineft
meadows
232
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
La Haze.
i
meadows in France, and on the other, by the ſpa-
cious forest of Loches.
Leaving Loches the firft town you come to is,
La Haye, a fmall town of Tourraine, on the
frontiers of Poitou, fituated on the little river
Creufe, and remarkable for being the birth-place-
of the famous Des Cartes, who was born here
March 31. 1596, and died at Stockholm, Fe-
bruary 11. 1650. From hence the next town
Ingrande, you come to is Ingrande, a fmall town, fituated
on the Loire, part of it belonging to Anjou, and
part to Britany, which ends here. They have
a pretty good trade, by their communication
with Nants; and there is a cuftom-houfe, where
goods and baggage are examined very ftricily.
Chatelberaut. From Ingrande you proceed to Chatelheraut, a
fmall town of Poitou, fituated on the river Vi-
enne, in eaſt longitude 35. latitude 46. 45. This
town is famous for its cutler's ware, which is
very much esteemed; and for a fine ftone bridge
over the Vienne, being 230 paces long, 66 broad,
and confifting of nine arches. Near this town
are found little ftones, which cut and polifhed
look like diamonds. Francis I. made this place
a dutchy and peerage, with a jurifdiction over a
great many lordships and villages. The next
town you come to is.
Poitiers.
IV. POITIERS.
Poitiers is the capital city of the province of
Poitou, in France, in eaft longitude 15. latitude
46. 40. This is one of the largeſt and moſt an-
cient cities in the kingdom, fituated on a rifing
ground, between the river Clain, whofe water
fills the town ditches, and another little river
which forms a lake. 'Tis the feat of a biſhop,
a fenefchal's court, a prefidial, generality, court-
of
through FRANCE.
233
If we
of finances, and a chamber of money.
regard the extent of the town walls, no town in
France, except Paris, furpaffes it in bignefs;
but within this compafs there are a great many
gardens, meadows, and corn-fields. However,
it has twenty-four parochial churches, five abbeys,
nine convents of friars, twelve of nuns, two fe-
minaries, and three hofpitals. The cathedral is
an old Gothic building, dedicated under the title
of S. Peter the Great. The collegiate church of
S. Hilary is immediately fubject to the pope.
Here they fhew a ftone, which confumes dead.
bodies, as they ſay, in twenty-four hours; and
a hollow ftump of a tree, into which they pre-
tend that madmen being put, recover their fenfes.
They have an univerfity in this town of fore
credit, founded by Charles VII. in 1431. The
Jefuits college is a very handfome building, as alfo
the hall where the judges fit. Poitiers is govern-
ed by a mayor, five and twenty aldermen, and
fixty-five burgeffes. There are feveral monu-
ments of Roman antiquities in and about the
town, as that of the palace of Gallien, the caftle
of Maubergeon, an amphitheatre, a triumphal
arch, which ſtill ferves for one of the city gates,
and the remainder of an aqueduct at a place out
of town, where the Capuchins have an hermi-
tage. Among the briars and thorns in the neigh-
bourhood of this city, are found abundance of
vipers, of which they make the trcchifque of
Poitiers, fo much efteemed. Within a mile of
the town, there is
large ftone called the pierre
levée, of which they tell a great many idle ftories.
About fix miles from Poitiers, in the year 1357,
was fought the famous battle between Edward
the black prince and king John of France, when
the latter was defeated and taken prifoner.
From
234
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Fivonne.
Barbefreux.
From Poitiers you come to Vivonne, a fmall
town of Poitou, fituated on the river Clain, and
adorned with a caftle. It was erected into a
dutchy and peerage, by Lewis XIV. for the mar-
fhal of that name. Leaving Vivonne, the next
town you come to is Barbefieux, a ſmall town of
Saintonge, fituated on the frontiers of Angoumeis.
The walls of this place were deftroyed in the
civil wars.
It is fituated in a very fertile country,
though at fome diftance from any river. Lewis
XIV. gave it the title of a marquifate, in favour of
one of Louvois's fons. It has two pariſhes, and a
convent of Cordeliers. Leaving Barbefieux, the
first town you come to is
Bourdeaux.
V. BOUR DE A UX.
Bourdeaux is the capital of the Bourdelois, and
of all Guienne and Gafcony, in weft longitude 40.
latitude 44. 50. This is one of the largeſt, and
richeſt cities in the kingdom, fituated on the weft
fide of the river Garonne, fifty miles fouth of the
mouth of that river. The town and ſuburbs
lying in the form of a creſcent about the river,
make a capacious harbour for fmall fhips. It is
furrounded by an old wall and towers, but its
principal defence confifts in three ſtrong forts, viz.
the Trumpet Cafle fituated at the entrance of the
Quay, the cattle of Hau, and Fort S. Lewis,
or S. Croix, all ancient caftles, but enlarged and
improved by Marshal Vauban. The river Ga-
ronne runs round the walls, which are defended
with large ditches. The town in general is none
of the moſt beautiful, the streets being narrow,
and the buildings old. They reckon five thou-
fand houfes in the city and fuburbs, and upwards
of forty thouſand fouls. This city was a fa.
vourite place of the Romans, as appears by the
ruins
through FRANCE.
235
ruins of the feveral buildings which they erected
here, fuch as the remains of an amphitheatre,
the Low Gate, the fountain of Duge, and divers
aqueducts. 'Tis now the feat of an archbishop,
an univerfity, of a parliament eſtabliſhed here
in 1462, as alſo of a generality, a mint, a fe-
nefchal's juriſdiction, and a court of admiralty.
The principal modern edifices are, the Cathedral
dedicated to S. Andrew, one of the fairest in
France; the archepifcopal palace, near the ram-
parts, a magnificent building; the church of S.
Michael, the Jefuits college, the Carthufian con-
vent, the Cordeliers church, and the hoſpital.
The place where the parliament affembles, which
is faid to be an old Roman ftructure; the univer-
fity, the town-houſe, the arfenal, the cuftom-
houſe, the mint, are likewife worth a traveller's
notice. Beſides the univerfity, there is an aca-
demy eſtabliſhed here in 1713, which has diftin-
guiſhed itſelf in the culture of polite learning.
There is a fine quay, where veffels unload, the
tide rifing here upwards of two fathoms. The
walk of S. Eulalia on the ramparts, is very plea-
fant, conſiſting of feveral long alleys of trees,
from whence there is a profpect of the town, the
neighbouring country, and of the fhips coming
up the river. Their foreign trade is very con-
fiderable, confifting chiefly in wine, of which
they fell, in time of peace, feldom lefs than an
hundred thousand tuns annually. They have two
great fairs every year for wine, each of fifteen
days continuance, when foreigners chiefly refort
hither; one begins the firft of March, and the
other the fifteenth of October. The laft is the
moft confiderable, being after the vintage, for
then you may fee fometimes four or five hun-
dred fail in the port of Bourdeaux, fome of them
500 tuns, whofe cargoes confift of brandies,
vinegar,
236
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Bayonne.
vinegar, prunes, and fruit, as well as wine; in
fine, we may judge of the trade of Bourdeaux by
the cuſtoms paid here, which are faid to amount
yearly to four millions of livres. This city is
governed by a mayor, who is always a lord of
the firft diftinction, and four efchevins or aldermen.
Between Bourdeaux and Bayonne, you meet with
nothing but villages.
VI. BAY ON NE.
Bayonne is a city of Gafcony, in France, in
weft longitude 1. 20. latitude 43. 30. This is a
very ancient town, and was the refidence of the
tribune of the Roman cohort in Novempopulania.
'Tis fituated at the conflux of the rivers Nive and
Adour, about fifteen miles north of the confines
of Spain. It received its name from the Bafquifh
words Baia and Ona, which fignifies a good bay
or harbour. The rivers divide it into three parts,
the ſmalleſt of which is called Little Bayonne.
The whole town was ftrongly fortified in the late
reign by Marſhal Vauban; there is a citadel which
commands the town, the harbour, and the ad-
jacent country, befides which it has feveral other
good forts for its defence. The town is tolerably
large and populous, and is a place of confequence
as well by reafon of its foreign trade, as for its be-
ing one of the ftrongest garrifons on the fide of
Spain. 'Tis a bishop's fee, but neither the ca-
thedral, nor any of the other publick or private
buildings have any thing remarkable. The har-
bour is good, but of difficult accefs. The wine
trade of Bayonne is very confiderable; hither allo
the Spaniards bring their wool over the moun-
tains on mules, and take fugars in return. Tim
ber for thipping, as mafts and yards, are alfo
brought down the rivers in floats from the Py-
renean
through FRANCE.
237
renean mountains to Bayonne, and fent from
thence to Brest and other ports.
Luz.
From Bayonne you proceed to S. John de Lutz, S. John de
a pretty large town of the county of Labsurd
in Gascony, fituated near the fea, at the mouth
of the Urdacuri. The inhabitants are faid to be
good fhip-carpenters, and expert at the whale
and cod fishery. Near this place lies the Ile Ife of Phea-
of Pheasants, in the middle of the river Bidaffia, fants.
which divides France from Spain, and being
equally claimed by both princes, was pitched
upon for a treaty of peace between those crowns,
in 1659, called the Pyrenean treaty, from the
Pyrenean mountains, which begin in this neigh Mountains.
bourhood.
S. John de Luz is the laft town of France, on
the frontiers of Spain; from thence you come
into the Province of Bifcay'; and on the Spaniſh
frontiers, your baggage is ftrictly examined, but
for the value of a thilling they let it pafs un-
fearched.
Pyrenean
S. Sebaftian,
The first place you come to in Spain, is Oregne.
Oregne, a finall borough, where their fpeech is
either French nor Spanish, but the language of
the Biscayners. From Orogne you come to Trun,
a fmall town of Spain in the province of Biscay,
neither walled nor well built. From thence
you
proceed to S. Sebaftian, a port town of Spain, in
the province of Bifay, in weft longitude 50.
latitude 43. 35. It is pleafantly fituated at the
foot of a mountain, on the Bay of Biscay:
The harbour is large, and defended by two moles.
The town is ftrongly fortified; the ftreets are
long and broad, paved with large white ftone;
the houſes tolerably good, and their churches
handfome. Their trade is in a flourishing con-
dition; confifting chiefly of iron and ſteel, faid
to be the fineſt in Europe. They export allo a
great
238
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Gallareta.
great deal of fine wool from hence, the growth
of old Caftile. The Spanish men of war do not
lye here, but at Port Paffage, about a quarter of
a league to the eaſtward of it. In the late war
with Spain, the privateers of this town were very
troubleſome to our merchant men, a hundred of
them having been feen here together. From S.
Tolofa. Sebaſtian you come to Tolofa, a ſmall town of
Spain, in the province of Biſcay, in weſt longi-
tude 2. latitude 43. 30. It is fituated on the ri-
ver Orio, in an agreeable valley between two
mountains. Though it be the capital of the ter-
ritory of Guipufcoa, it is not a town of any great
extent or trade; the principal manufacture of thẹ
place is fword-blades. From Tolofa you proceed
to Gallareta, a fmall town of Biscay, and go-
vernment of Alava, fituated near the famous hill
of S. Adrian, which feparates Biscay from old
Victoria. Caftile. Leaving Gallareta you proceed to Vic-
toria, a town of Spain, in the province of Biſ-
cay, in weſt longitude 2. 45. latitude 43. 6.
It is fituated in a fruitful valley, furrounded by a
double wall, and though not large, has the ho-
nour of being a bishop's fee. The streets are
handſome, most of them being planted with trees,
and the houſes well built; the principal fquare is
encompaffed by the town-houſe, two convents,
with feveral handſome houſes, and adorned with a
fountain. It is well inhabited by tradeſmen and
people of faſhion, invited hither by the agreeable
tituation and beauty of the place. From Victoria,
you come to Miranda de L' Ebro, a town of
Spain, in the province of old Caftile, in weft
longitude 3. 30. latitude 43. It is fituated
on the river Ebro, from whence it had its
caftle
name; and is defended by a strong
on the top of a mountain. There is a fpacious
market-place in the town with a handſome foun-
Miranda.
tain
4
through FRANCE.
239
tain in the middle. From Miranda the firſt place
of note you come to is
VII. BURGOS.
Burgos is the capital of old Caftile, in Spain, Burgos.
in weft longitude 4. 5. latitude 42. 30. It is
fituated on the afcent of a hill, on the top of
which there is a ftrong caſtle, and the lower part
of the town is watered by the rapid river
Alançon. The principal avenue to the city is
by a handfome bridge over the abovemen-
tioned river, which leads to a beautiful gate, a-
dorned with the ftatues of feveral kings of
Spain. The town is large and populous, but the
houfes ill built, and the streets generally narrow
and dirty, except fome few, eſpecially that which
leads to the cathedral. There are alfo fome
handfome fquares, adorned with fountains and
ftatues. The great ſquare is in the middle of the
town, encompaffed with fine houfes, built upon
a piazza or cloyſter, as is ufual in other Spanish
cities. Burgos is the fee of an archbiſhop, and
claims the first place in the meeting of the ftates
of the two Caftiles, which is difputed by Toledo.
The principal ftructures are, the cathedral, a
mafter-piece of Gothic architecture; the church
of the Auguftinians, noted for the beautiful and
rich chapel of the holy crucifix; and the palaces
of Velasco, and of the archbishop. The Jefuits
and Dominicans have fine convents here; and
there are feveral other religious houfes of men
and women, particularly an abbey for 150 nuns,
who must be all of noble extraction. They have
likewife a royal hofpital, very richly endowed,
and are famous for fpeaking the best Caftilian.
To the eastward of Burgos there is a village cal-
lel Val de Buentos, remarkable for its healing
waters,
240
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Lerma.
franda del
Quero.
Madrid.
waters, which are particularly good against
Auxes.
From Burgos you proceed to Lerma, a fmall
town of old Caftile, in the government of Ofma,
fituated on the Orlanzo, famous for the beauti-
ful cattle built here by Cardinal de Lerma, a fa-
vourite of Philip III. It is reckoned the fineſt
building in Spain, next to the Efcurial; and
has a convent adjoining to it, with a large park,
and delightful walks. From Lerma you come to
Aranda del Duero, a fmall town of old Caftile,
in the government of Ofma, fituated on the river
Duro; with a caftle where there is
a caftle where there is a fmall gar-
rifon. From hence you meet with nothing worth
notice till you come to
VIII. MADRID.
Madrid is the capital of the province of new
Caftile, and the kingdom of Spain, in weft lon-
gitude 4. 15. latitude 40. 30. This is the an-
cient Mantua Carpetanorum, and was but an in-
confiderable town belonging to the archbishops
of Toledo, till the kings of Spain, about 200
years ago, made it the feat of their government.
Situation. It ſtands in the middle of a large fandy plain, fur-
rounded with high mountains at the diſtance of
eight or ten English miles. Their are neither
walls nor fortifications to defend it; fo that, ftrict-
ly fpeaking, it is only a village, but the largeſt
in Europe, being feven or eight miles in circum-
ference. The treets are generally of a great
length, fraight and ſpacious, but miferably paved,
with fmall flints, and extremely nafty, becauſe
the people throw all their dirt out of the win-
dows. There are feveral handſome ſquares, but
the largeſt and moſt magnificent is that of the
Plaça
through FRANCE.
241
Plaça Mayor, in the middle of the town, being
434 feet long, and 334 feet broad, furround-
ed by 136 uniform houfes, five ftories high, with
balconies at every ftory, the whole fuftained by
pilafters and arches, and inhabited by drapers and
fubftantial tradeſmen. In the middle of this
fquare the great market is held, and here alfo
the bull feaſts are celebrated on any victory
or other great event. The houſes of Madrid Building,
are generally built of brick, without courts or
gates before them, but the apartments are com-
modious and magnificent; their lattice windows
indeed take away from their beauty, but are uſed
for two reaſons, one becauſe women can fee into
the ſtreets without being feen, and the other be-
caufe glafs in that country increaſes the heat,
by the reflection of the fun. Building is excef-
five dear at Madrid, the materials being brought
from diftant places, and no navigable river to im-
port them; for the Mancanares, which runs thro'
the valley without the town, is in reality neither.
brook nor river, but fometimes one and fome-
times the other, according as the fnows on the
circumjacent mountains happen to diffolve. Over
this river, as the Spaniards call it, Philip II.
built a magnificent bridge, which is called the
Bridge of Segovia. The fhallowness of the river
in fummer has occafioned a great many jokes
from foreigners, as that the natives of Madrid
would do well to fell their bridge to buy water
for their river, and the like; yet the violence of
the torrents, which fall from the mountains in
winter, renders this noble pile abfolutely necef-
fary to refift the force of the current.
There is a vast number of handfome churches
Churches
and convents in Madrid, which are a great and convents.
ornament to this capital. The Dome, is a
magnificent building, in which the altar of the
M
VOL. IV.
bleffed
242
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Palace.royal.
bleffed Virgin's chapel, with its rails, are of maf-
fy filver. Our Lady of Atocha is a handfome
church which ftands within the walls of the
Dominican convent, about a mile out of Ma-
drid, with which it has a communication, by a
thick fhady walk of elms. There is a chapel
in this church, famous for a miraculous image
of the Virgin, before which they conftant-
ly burn an hundred gold and filver lamps.
The church of our Lady of Ahumada is alfo a
fine ftructure, where there is another image of
the Virgin, to which they afcribe a great many
miracles; but the church of S. Ifidore, the patron
of Madrid, exceeds all the relt in riches and
beauty. The chapel where this faint is interred,
is extremely fine; the walls are incrufted with
marble of various colours, the paintings exceed-
ing beautiful, and the whole is faid to have coft
Philip IV. four millions of livres. The other pi-
ous buildings of Madrid, are their hofpitals,
whereof they have feveral, as for lying-in wo-
men, foundlings, people infected with venereal
diſorders, and the general hofpital of S. Jerom for
all fick people, which is vaftly large, and con-
tinually entertains 1500 perfons.
There are feveral Royal Palaces in and about
Madrid; that called the palace royal, is the
ordinary refidence of the court, fituated on an
eminence, at the end of the town, from whence
there is an eaſy deſcent to the Mancanares. The
proſpect over the neighbouring plains, which
takes in the fine walks on the banks of the river,
renders its fituation extremely pleafant. The
grand avenue is by the ftrcet or Calle Mayor, the
broadeft and best built of any in the town.
This building is of ancient architecture, and has
nothing anſwerable to the grandeur of the king
but its rich moveables. The front is compoſed
of
through FRANCE.
243
of two pavilions, the reft being very irregular;
behind it there are two large fquare courts, the
firft of which has two fpacious terrafs-walks raifed
on high arches, and adorned with baluftres and
ftatues. There are feveral porches, by which
one enters into a large ftair-cafe, which leads
to the king's apartments. Notwithſtanding the
palace in general has no great regularity or beauty,
yet there are ſeveral fine apartments, adorned with
bufts and ſtatues exquifitely wrought, and with a
great many fine pictures by the first hands, particu-
larly one by Michael Angelo,reprefenting our Saviour
in the garden of olives, faid to have coft fifteen
thouſand piftoles. The tapestry and the reft of
the furniture is incredibly rich. The window
frames are of fine marble, and glazed with crown
glass; and every ftory is adorned with gilded
balconies.
par-
Without one of the gates of the town, on the Buen Ritiro
defcent of a little hill, lies another of the king's
palaces, called Bueno Retiro, from whence there
is a fine proſpect of the neighbouring country.
The whole edifice confifts of four great apart-
ments, and four large pavilions, which make a
perfect fquare. In the middle there is a fine
terre of flowers, with a fountain, adorned with
a ftatue. The apartments are large and mag-
nificent, embellished with excellent paintings.
The theatre is a very fpacious, the boxes being
large enough to hold fifteen perfons. The ad-
joining park is about three miles in circumference,
in which there are feveral handſome lodges,
where the officers of the court refide when the
king comes to divert himſelf in the hot ſeaſon.
Oppoſite to the palace royal, the king has ano- Caſa del
ther palace, called Cafa del Campo, fituate on Campo.
the banks of the river Mancanares, but at pre-
The most remarkable
M 2
things
fent much neglected.
244
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Bl.
2
things it contains are, the brazen equeſtrian ſtatue
of Philip III. upon a marble pedeſtal, a brazen
fountain in form of a cafle, the park, and the fiſh
ponds. All thefe palaces have good walks be-
longing to them, whither people of condition re-
fort in the evening, or to the Pardo, a fine field
or meadow adjoining to the town, where people
of diftinction make the tour in a fummer evening
in their coaches. Befides thefe already mentioned,
there are other palaces at ſome diſtance from the
city, viz. the Pardo, the Sarfnela, and the Ef-
curial. The first two are nothing extraordinary,
but the latter is too fine a building not to deferve
particular notice.
The Efcuri. Efcurial is a palace of the king of Spain, near
a village of the fame name, twenty-one miles
north-west of Madrid. 'Tis one of the largeſt
and finest ftructures in the world, begun by
Philip II. in 1557, and finiſhed by the fame prince
in 1584. There is nothing wanting to render
it a complete town within itſelf, for here is a fine
church, a college, a monaftery of the order of S,
ferom, dwelling-houſes, ſhops, artificers, cloy-
fters, gardens, and an extenfive park, with groves,
fountains, cafcades, grottos, and every thing that
can render a place agreeable in fo hot a climate,
though it is fituated on a very barren foil. 'Tis
faid to contain 11000 windows, 14000 doors,
1800 pillars, 17 cloyfters, or piazzas, and
twenty-two courts. The greateſt part of the
architecture is of the Doric order, with fome of
the Ionic, Corinthian, Compofite, and Tufcan.
The whole edifice is fquare, built with grey-ftone,
hewn out of the adjacent mountains, but fo per-
fectly polished, that it looks like marble; and
each corner is flanked by a handfome pavilion.
There are four ſtories in all the fronts, and in
the other parts of the building three. The church
is
through FRANCE.
246
Is built afrer the model of S. Peter's in Rome,
well cnlightened, and paved with black and white
marble. The roof is beautifully painted with
divers figures; and the choir was particularly
done by the famous Titian. The facrifty is like-
wife painted by Titian, and feveral other emi-
nent hands. From the church you deſcend to
the Pantheon, ſo called from its being built after
the model of the Pantheon of Rome; this place
is immenfely rich, being the Mausoleum of the
kings of Spain. The palace itſelf fronts to the
north, and is entered by a noble portico. It
contains five fquare courts, one large, and four
others lefs, all furrounded by piazzas, with open
galleries in each ſtory. The paintings and furni-
ture are exquifitely fine, and anſwer the majefty
of the building. That part of the Efcurial which
belongs to the monks of S. Jerome, is divided
into five courts of the fame model and dimen-
fions with thoſe of the palace. The grand cloy
fter is 210 feet fquare, paved with black and
white marble, and adorned with excellent paint-
ings. The library over the grand portico, con-
fifts of five galleries, and is faid to contain
100000 books in all languages, befides 14 or
15000 manuſcripts, of which the moft confidera-
ble are, a S. Chryfoftom in Greek, a treatife of
S. Austin on baptifm, faid to be written with his
own hand, and one entire clafs of Arabic books.
The royal gardens are very large, and well wa-
tered with fountains; adjoining to thefe is a fine
park of feven leagues in circumference.
bon.
Thoſe who do not chufe to make Toledo their Direct road
way to Lisbon, may take a fhorter cut, by leav- from Ma-
ing Toledo on the left hand, and proceed directly
drid to Lifa
to Talavera de la Reyna. This is a handfome
walled town, of Eftremadura, in weft longitude Talavera de
7. 15. latitude 38. 40. about thirty miles from
M 3
Madrid,
la Reyna.
246
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Truxillo.
Merida.
Madrid, and thirty-five to the weftward of Toledo.
It is fituated in a valley on the fouth banks of
the Tagus, in a fruitful foil, and wholefome air.
They have eight parifh churches, thirteen.
convents of men, and five of women. The
town was formerly remarkable for its woolen ma-
nufacture, but is now more noted for its fine
earthen ware.
Here there is a handfome bridge
over the Tagus.
From thence you proceed to Truxillo, a town
of Spain, in the province of Eftremadura, in.
weft longitude 6. latitude 39. 12. This is a
well built town, fituated among the mountains,
on the fide of a hill, with a citadel on the top.
It is faid to have been built by Julius Cæfar,
from whom it was called Turris Julia. There
are feveral houfes of perfons of quality in the
town, five pariſh churches, five convents of men,
and four of women. In the neighbourhood there
is a woww handſome palace of the Count de Lepele.
This town is famous for the birth of Francis
Pizarro, one of the conquerors of Peru.
very anume pr
From Truxillo you go to Merida, a city of
Spain, in the province of Eftremadura, in weſt
longitude 6. 32. latitude 38. 55. This is an an-
cient city, formerly the capital of Hifpania Lu-
fitanica, and faid to have been built by Auguftus,
as an hofpital for his difabled foldiers, from whence,
it had the name of Emerita Augufta. It is fi-
tuate on an eminence, under which runs the
river Guadiana. 'Tis now a biſhop's fee, and
remarkable for the ruins of feveral Roman an-
tiquities. Auguftus built here a finebridge over
the Guadiana, with two aqueducts, and caufed
a higher way to be made from thence to.
Seville. The bridge was carried away in 1610
by a flood, and another built at a great expence.
The aqueducts are intirely ruined, and a mo-
dern
through FRANCE.
247
1
dern one built in their ftead, which conveys the
water from a confiderable diſtance to the town.
There is alfo a triumphal arch, pretty well pre-
ferved. The town at preſent is fmall, not con-
taining above a thouſand inhabitants.
From Merida you advance to Badajos, a city Badajos
of Eftremadura, in weft longitude 1. 20. latitude
38. 45. It is a large fortified town, fituate on
38.45.
an eminence, on the fouth bank of the river Gua-
diana, 240 miles fouth-west of Madrid, forty west-
ward of Merida, and two miles to the eastward
of the confines of Portugal; againſt which king-
dom it is a strong barrier, and is generally called
the capital of Eftremadura. It was anciently.
called Pax Augufia, and took its prefent name
from the Moors. 'Tis a bishop's fee, and con-
tains about 4000 inhabitants. The houſes are
well built, and the ftreets tolerably large, but
the principal beauty is the great fquare, on one
fide of which ftands the cathedral church of S.
John, and on the other the governor's palace.
It is divided into two parts, viz. the upper and
lower town, and defended by two caftles, one on
the fide of Andalufia, called S. Michael; and
the other on the oppofite fide, called S. Chrifto-
pher, which defends the entrance of the bridge,
a fine ftructure built of large hewn-ftone, on
thirty arches. The Portuguese befieged this
town in 1648, without fuccefs, and likewiſe
in 1705, when they were defeated by Marſhal
de Tefsè under its walls, and the earl of Gal-
way, who commanded the British troops, had his
right hand ſhot off.
?
From Badajos travelling twelve miles further, Elvasi
you come to Elvas, a city of Portugal in the
province of Alentejo, in weft longitude 7. 35.
latitude 38. 45. It is fituated on a hill which it
covers intirely, near the river Gaya, and is defended
by a strong caftle, and other fortifications.
M 4
The
248
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The town is well built, and confifts of four pa-
rifhes, three monafteries, two nunneries, three
hofpitals, containing in all about 2500 inhabi-
tants. Without the town they have a large fo-
reft of olives, cut into pleafant walks, with foun-
tains in the middle of them. Befides oil, the
neighbouring country affords fome of the beſt
wine in Portugal. Elvas was made a bifhopric
in 1570, and is reckoned one of the ftrongeſt
fortreffes in the kingdom.
From Elvas you have nine fmall poſts to the
little town of Aldea Gallega, for which you pay
about eighteen pence a horſe each poft. Aldea
Gallega is only fifteen miles diftant from Lisbon,
for which city you muſt embark on the riverTagus.
But 'tis time to return now to the other route
by Toledo.
Toledo.
TOLEDO.
•
Toledo is the capital of new Caftile, and for-
merly of the whole kingdom, in weft longitude
4. 12. latitude 39. 45. It is fituate upon a ſtep
rock, at the foot of which runs the river Tagus
about forty miles to the fouthward of Madrid.
The river encompaffes three fides of it, and the
reft of the city is defended by an old wall, and
Gothic towers. It was formerly the refidence of
the Gothic and Moorish kings, and is now
the feat of an archbishop primate of the king-
dom, as alfo of an univerfity. The town is in
general well built, and inhabited by a numerous
nobility, but the streets are narrow and un-
even, for which reafon litters are more uſed here
than coaches. The most remarkable public build-
ings are, the caftle or royal palace, and the ca-
thedral. The caftle is fituated on a high fteep
rock, which commands all the other hills in the
town,
through FRANCE.
249
town, and from whence there is a delightful pro-
fpect. Afcending to the caftle, you come to a
noble fquare, the houfes uniform, built with
brick, fupported with a piazza, and adorned with
handfome balconies. The caftle is of a fquare
form, confifting of four large piles of building,
with their wings and pavilions, and feveral mag-
nificent apartments. Though the caftle be above
160 yards above the river, yet it is furniſhed.
with water from thence by a 'pump.
The ca-
thedral is the richest and most magnificent in
Spain; it is fituated in the middle of the town,
adjoining to a handſome ſtreet, with a ſpacious
court before it, from whence you enter the church
by eight beautiful brazen doors, with fuitable
porticos. This church is 384 feet in length,
191 in breadth, and 107 in height, built of an
excellent white-ftone. It has feveral chapels, e-
qual for largenefs to fome churches, richly gilt
and painted; and a moſt valuable treaſury. The
Archbishop's revenue is faid to be 350,000
crowns per annum: he is primate of Spain, great
chancellor of Caftile, and counſellor of ftate ;
the prefent archbishop is the Cardinal Infant,
younger brother of the king of Spain. For
keeping the church in repair, lands are fettled to
the value of 100,000 crowns per annum ; and all
the dignitaries are provided for in proportion, fo
that this may be reckoned the richest endowed
church in Europe. The bishop's palace, adjoin-
ing to the cathedral, is an old Gothic edifice.
They reckon two colleges belonging to the uni-
verfity, thirty-eight convents of both fexes,
twenty-eight hofpitals, twenty-feven pariſhes, and
about eight thoufand inhabitants. The river
Tagus is not navigable in this city, but it might
be made fo at a fmall expence. Without the
walls you may fee the ruins of a Roman amphi-
theatre,
M 5
250
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
1
theatre, and of a machine, by which the Moors
conveyed water from the river through all the
city, but neglected by the Spaniards. There
were formerly manufactures of filk and wool in
this city, in which they uſed to employ great
numbers of people, but now they are much di-
minifhed. The adjacent country is extremely
pleafant, and abounds with gentlemen's feats,.
among the reft there is a fine one belonging to
the archbishop.
Albuquerque. Leaving Toledo you meet with no place worth
deſcription till you come to Albuquerque, a large
borough in the province of Eftremadura, fituated
on the river Gebora, and twelve miles from the
confines of Portugal. It has the title of a dutchy,
and belongs to the family of Cueva. The next
place of note you come to is
Lifeon.
Situation.
LISBON.
Lisbon is the capital of the kingdom of Portu-
gal, in eaſt longitude 9. latitude 38. 45. It is
a large populous city, by the ancients called
Olyfippo, fituated on the north banks of the
Tagus, from whence it rifes by an eafy afcent in
the form of an amphitheatre, and comprehends
feven little hills in its circumference. It is of a
very irregular figure, broadeft in the middle, and
narrower towards the extremes, extending in the
form of a crefcent, about fix miles in length
along the river. Upon the hill of S. George,
which commands all the town, ftands the citadel,
feparated from the city by a wall. The city is
Fortifications furrounded only by a fingle wall, and fome an-
tique towers, with twenty-fix gates next the ri-
ver, and feventeen on the land fide. The
ftreets are narrow and ſteep, which occafions the
frequent ufe of litters; they are alfo very difagreeable
becauſe
through FRANCE.
251
becauſe of the dirt and naftiness, which the
inhabitants here as well as in Spain, generally
throw out of the windows. The citizens houfes Buildings,
are old, ill contrived buildings; but thoſe of the
nobility are handſome ſtructures, built of hewn-
ftone, and adorned with yards and gardens.
They generally compute about thirty thoufand
houfes in Lisbon, forty parish churches, about as
many monafteries of both fexes, and two hundred.
thouſand inhabitants. The firft fquare in the
town, is that before the royal palace, which
forms one fide of it; another fide of it runs along
the river, and is ſupported by a wall; and on the
oppofite fide is a range of fine buildings. In this
fquare they have their bull-fights, and here al-
fo the officers of the inquifition perform their
bloody ceremonies. But the largeft fquare in town
is that called the Rucio, where the feveral hills
about it form a kind of an amphitheatre.
Lifbon is the feat of an archbishop, and an Churches
univerfity. The cathedral dedicated to S. Vin-
cent, which ftands upon one of the ſeven hills, is
an old Gothic ftru&ure, remarkable only for the
richness of its chapels. The fireft and moft
magnificent of their churches, is that of the
Dominicans, in which are three chapels, extreme»
ly rich. The convent is fuitable to the magni-
ficence of the church, and near it is the palace
of the inquifition. The other churches moft
efteemed are thofe of the Augustins, the Merci-
ful Society, and the Jefuits. The hofpital of
All Saints is one of the largeft and beft endowed:
in Europe.
The king's palace lies upon the river, and is Royal palace
one of the firft things that prefents itfelf to a
foreigner upon his arrival. It makes a fplendid
appearance, and was deligned for a fquare, but
only one fide of it is built, fo that it is not very
regular
M 6
252
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
The harbour
*Trade.
regular. The apartments are grand, and well
furniſhed in winter, but in fummer they take
down the hangings and curtains. There are two
galleries in it, about an hundred paces in length,
in the firſt and ſecond ſtories, and balconies in
the windows. In the third ftory is the royal
library, containing a great number of valuable
books in preffes. Adjoining to the palace is a
fquare court, furrounded with a piazza, where
merchants meet for bufinefs. Within the palace
are ſeveral large rooms for the public offices.
The king's chapel is an elegant building, very
richly adorned by the prefent king, who is ex-
tremely fond of ecclefiaftic pomp. From this
place there is a fine profpect of the harbour, the
ocean, and the country on the oppofite fide of
the river.
The harbour of Lisbon, taking it from S. Be-
nito to the bay of Cafiais at the mouth of the
river, is fixteen or eighteen miles long; but taking
only that part about the town where fhips ride in
the greateſt ſecurity from ftorms and enemies, in
eighteen fathom water, it will contain feveral
thouſand fail. 'Tis dangerous indeed for fhips
to enter it without a pilot; they are obliged
at their arrival to falute the fort of Bellem, fix
miles below Lisbon, but they are forbid to fire a
gun when they come up to the town.
There is no port in Europe that has fo exten-
five a foreign trade as Lisbon, except London and
Amfterdam. The English at preſent have the
greateſt and moſt beneficial part of this trade, ex-
changing their woolen manufactures, lead, and
tin, for wine, fruit and treafure. The king,
with the nobility, and courts of juftice, reſiding.
at Lisbon, contribute to its flourishing condi-
tion. Proviſions are very cheap in this city,
which is owing as well to the culture of the
neigh
through FRANCE.
253
neighbouring country, as to the conveniency of
importing corn and cattle by fea. The air is al-
fo more temperate than in the Spanish Provinces,
under the fame parallel, and their water is excel-
lent. The city being viewed from the river,
or the fouthern fhore, affords a fine proſpect, the
buildings rifing gradually up the hills on which it
ftands. If you look from the town, the profpect
is no leſs entertaining, for underneath you fee a
river, three miles broad, filled with fhips of almoft
every nation in Europe; and beyond, a beautiful
country diverfified with towns and villages.
The moft remarkable places in the neighbour- Alcantare,
hood of Lisbon are, 1. The palace and village
of Alcantara, on the river Tagus, about a mile
to the westward of Lisbon. The palace is a mag-
nificent ftructure, but chiefly admired for its
beautiful gardens and the charming country in
which it ftands. 2. Bellem, or Bethlem, a church Bellem
and cloyfter delightfully fituated on the bank of
the Tagus. Over-againſt them, in the middle
of the channel, is the fort of Bellem, which
fhips are obliged to falute, and to fhew their bills
of diſcharge from the custom-houſe, &c. giv-
ing an account of themſelves upon their arrival.
3. About fix miles below Bellem, lies the village Cafeañ³
of Cafcais on the northern fhore, a little above
which the Tagus difcharges itſelf into the ocean
by a very wide opening, but encumbered pretty
much with rocks and fands, that divide the mouth
of the river into two channels, through which
all fhips enter that are bound for Lifbon. Each
of theſe channels is defended by a fort, without
whoſe leave no ſhips can pafs. 4. On the fouth Aimada.
fide of the river, over-againft Lisbon, ftands the
caftle of Aimada, fituated on a high rock, in
the little bay of Couna, taking its name from a
town adjoining to it. Here is a medicinal ſpring,
whofe
254
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Valladolid,
whoſe waters are reckoned good for the gravel.
A little further, at the bottom of the bay, lies.
the little village of Couna; and beyond, towards
the east, the town of Aldea Gallega, on the banks.
of the Tagus, through which lies the common.
road to Burgos and Seville.
Remarkable places in the direct road from
Bayonne to Liſbon.
We have already obferved, that the direct road
from Bayonne to Lisbon is by Burgos and Valladolid,.
and fo to leave Madrid on your left hand, when
you come to Burgos. We have alſo given a de--
fcription of Burgos; fo that there remains only
to give fome account of Valladolid, and Medina
del Campo, the only two places worth notice be-
tween Burges and Liſbon.
Valladolid is a city of Spain, in the province.
of old Caftile, in weft longitude 4. 50. latitude.
41. 36. This is one of the moft confiderable and
pleaſanteſt towns in Spain, fituate in a large beau-
tiful plain, on the river Puicerda, a little above its
confluence with the Duero. 'Tis furrounded
by a wall, but has no other fortifications. The
town is in general well built, and contains eleven
thouſand houfes. There are feveral handſome
fquares, particularly that in the middle of the
town, which is vaftly large, and furrounded with
uniform buildings, fupported by a piazza. They
have feveral fine churches, and no less than
feventeen convents of both fexes, among which
that of the Dominicans is moft remarkable for
beauty and riches. This city was once the
refidence of the kings of Spain, who have ftill
a handfome palace here, repaired and beautified.
by Philip IV. There are alſo feveral other pa-
laces
through FRANCE.
255
laces of the nobility, which well deferve a travel-
ler's attention. The ancient name of this city,
was Pintia; it was made a biſhop's fee in 1595,
and has an univerfity confifting of feveral colleges..
The air is good and tolerably pure, the adjacent
fields are extremely fruitful and pleafant; and the
inhabitants are as civil and polite as any in Spain.
Medina del Campo is a city of Spain, in the pro- Medina del
vince of Leon, in weft longitude 5. 15. latitude Campa.
This was formerly a rich trading city,
41. 10.
but is now upon the decline. The magiftrates
have the power of difpofing of all places and pre-
ferments in the town, and enjoy ſeveral other
confiderable privileges. The neighbouring coun-
try produces fome of the beft corn and wine in
Spain.
Remarkable places in the coach route from
Paris to Bayonne.
Moſt of the places worth deſcription in this
route are the fame as thofe in the poft route.
The following is a fhort account of ſuch as are
different.
40.
Amboife is a town of the province of Tourraine, Amboife,
in France, in eaft longitude 1. 30. latitude 49.
'Tis a very ancient town, fituate on the
river Loire, within fifteen miles eastward of Tours.
Over the river Loire there is a very handſome
ftone bridge. The town is fmall, confifting only
of two pariſhes and two ſtreets: But it is famous
for a fine old caftle embelliſhed and enlarged by
Charles VIII. who was born and died here.
Without the town, there is a very pleafant
walk, between two rows of trees, called the Courfe.
--Saintes is a city of France, in the province Sainter.
of Guienne, capital of the territory of Saintonge.
in weſt longitude 36. min. latitude 45. 50. This
is
255
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
•
is one of the oldeſt cities in Gaul, and is now the
feat of a biſhop fuffragan of Bourdeaux, and a
prefidial. It is fituate on the river Charente,
about twenty miles to the eastward of the
ocean. The city is large, but indifferently built.
The cathedral of S. Peter is a very ancient ftruc-
ture, faid to have been built by Charlemagne.
They have a great many confiderable monuments
of Roman antiquities, as, a triumphal arch, fup-
poſed to have been erected in the reign of Ti-
berius, the ruins of an amphitheatre, ſeveral
Blaye, aqueducts, and a capitol.-Blaye is a little town,
in the province of Guienne, fituated on the Ga-
ronne, in weft longitude 45 min. latitude 45. 7.
This town has a citadel and two ftrong forts,
one of which is erected on an iſland in the
middle of the river, and the other on the op-
poſite ſhore, called Fort Medon, from its ftand-
ing in a diftrict of that name. The paffage of
the river is fecured by theſe forts, ſo that no ſhip
can come up and down the river without their
Langon. permiffion.-Langon is a fmall town of the go-
vernment of Guienne, in the diftrict of Bazadois,
fituated on the Garrone, and noted for its excellent
Dax. white wine.-Dax or Daques is a city of France,
capital of the territory of Les Landes, in the
province of Gascony, in weft longitude 1. latitude.
43. 45. This is a very ancient town, formerly
called Aqua Augufta, a name it took from
the hot fprings in the middle of the town, which
were much efteemed in the time of the Romans.
It is fituated on the river Adour, and defended
by a caſtle, with fome other ancient fortifications.
The town is populous, and has fome trade. 'Tis
likewife a bishop's fee, Suffragan of Auche, and
has a fenefchal's court, with feveral religious
houſes.
CHAP.
•
through FRANCE.
257
:
.
CHAP. VII.
Journey from Paris to Madrid and Lif
bon, by Narbonne and Perpignan.
T
HE preceding route from Paris to Madrid
is much the fhorteft; that which we in-
tend to give in the prefent chapter is the plea-
fanteft, as it takes in Languedoc, the moft delight-
ful province in France. There are two different
roads from Paris to Narbonne, one by Limoges,
Perpignan, and Toulouse, and the other by lower
Languedoc. Again there are two different roads to
Limoges, one the neareſt, by Orleans; and the
other, further about by Moulins and Clermont.
Theſe different routes we ſhall give in the follow-
ing order.
Route from Paris to Narbonne and Perpig-
nan, by Limoges and Toulouſe.
This route is the fame as that to Rourdeaux,
as far as Orleans, which you may fee in the pre-
ceding chapter, p. 219. At Orleans you leave
the road to Bourdeaux on the right, and proceed
by the following route.
ORLEANS
La Ferté
Chaumont
Pofts
2/1/
1
Chateau-vieux
1/1
Milliance
ROMORENTIN
11 11
플
​Villefranche
258
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Villefranche
Dun le Poillier
I
I
I
I
Bouterie
Vatan
Leuroux
CHATEAUROUX
Lottier
ARGENTON
Montbertuy
S. Benoit de Saqulz
Chefeaux
Arnac
Mortroiles
Rafes
227
I
1 ½
I
I
I
J
1
플
​La Maiſon Rouge }
LIMOGES
I
1 ½
Boiffeil
I
Pierre Buffiers
I
Magnac
I
Fregefond
I
USERCHES
I½
Barriolet.
I.
Donnezat.
BRIVES
Creffenfac
Souillac
I
1/
Peyrat
Freinet
Vert
S. Pierre la Feuille
CAHORS
L'Hospitalet
Caftelnau
S. Romans
MONTAUBAN
La Baftide
Fronton
S. Forry
2
1 /1/
플
​I
I
I
I
I.
J.
مران
I.
I
·་
TOULOUSE
through FRANCE.
259
TOULOUSE
Caftenet
Baffiege
Villefranche
2
I
I
I
I
I
1
La Bastide d'Anjou.
CASTELNAUDARY
Alzon
CARCASSONNE
Barbeyrac
Mons
Lezignan
Villedaigne
NARBONNE
Villefaces
La Palme
Salies
PERPIGNAN
I
I
I
I
I
1½
I
2
11 / 15
Thoſe who chufe take the ſhorteft way from
Toulouse to the frontiers of Spain; when they
come to Carcafonne, muft leave Narbonne on
their left, and proceed directly to Mont Lewis,.
the laſt town belonging to France, on the fron-
tiers of Spain; the route from Carcaffonne is as
follows.
From Carcaffone to Limoux
From Limoux to Cuiffan
From Cuiffan to Aunat
From Aunat to Puyvaldor
From Puyvaldor to Mont Louis
2.
I
2
1
I
IT
Route
260
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
*
:
Route from Paris to Limoges by Moulins
and Clermont.
This route is the fame as that from Paris to
Lyons, as far as three pofts beyond Moulins, viz.
a place called Efchirolles, which you may fee in
chap. iii. p. 114. At Efchirolles you must leave
the road to Lyons on your left hand, fo that the
Foute from Moulins to Limoges is as follows:
MOULINS
Sanne
Belay
Efchirolles
S. Pourfin
Ecolle
GANNAT
Aigue perfe
RIOM
CLERMONT
Pont Gibaut
Pontaumur
S. Avy
Croc
Pofs
I
I
I
I
I
I
1
I
2
17
1
Pont Charraut
Felletin
Valliere
Compeix
S. Saviat
La Brugiere
S. Prieft de Taurion
LIMOGES
I
I
I
1
I
1 1/2
1 //
The remainder to Toulouse and Perpignan as
in the preceding route..
Route
through FRANCE.
261
Route from Paris to Narbonne and Perpig-
nan, by Lower Languedoc.
Taking this road you must go from Paris to
Lyons, according to the route given in this vo-
lume, chap. iii. page 114. From Lyons you muft
take the road to Marfeilles as far as Montelimart,
as in p. 119. From Montelimari you go to
Pont S. Efprit, by the following route: Donzere,
poft and half: Pierre Latte, one poft: La Palu,
one poft: Pont S. Efprit, one polt. From Pont
S. Efprit to Narbonne the route is as follows:
PONT S. ESPRIT
Pofts
I
I
Bagnols
Connault
Valiguieres
Iz
Remoulins
I
S. Gervafi
I
NISMES
I
Uchaut
I
Lunel
I
Colombieres
I
MONTPELLIER
1 ½
Fabregues
Gigean
I
Loupian
I
Villemagne
I
PEZÉNAS
I
Begude de Fordy
I
BEZIERS
I
Niſſan
I
NARBONNE
From Narbonne to Perpignan as in the firſt
route.
Route
:
264
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Chateau-
YOUX.
ritory of Blaifois, and famous for its woolen
manufacture. This
This is faid to be a very ancient
town; and the inhabitants pretend that Cafar
built a tower here, of which there are ftill fome
confiderable remains. In this neighbourhood
ſtands the city of Bourges, of which we propoſe
giving a deſcription in the eight chapter.
From Romorentin you proceed to Chateau-roux,
a large town of the dutchy of Berry, fituate on
the river Inde, within fixteen leagues of Bourges.
It contains four parishes, a collegiate church, a
convent of Cordeliers, an abbey of Benedictins,
a fine caftle, and a park belonging to prince
Condé, who is lord of the town. Lewis XIII.
erected it into a dutchy and peerage.
The caſtle
was built by Raoul de Large, whence by corrup-
tion it was called Chateau-roux, The fuburb of
Marins is full of weavers, who make a cloth
rgenton. called drup de Berry.--From Chateau-roux you
come to Argenton, a fmall town of the dutchy of
Berry, on the confines of the Marche, in eaft
longitude 1. 35. latitude 46. 40. It is fituate on
the river Creuse, which divides it into the old
and new town. 'Tis defended by a fair caftle,
flanked with ten towers, one of which is faid to
have been built by the emperor Heraclius, and
has the figure of an ox carved on it, with Cafar's
device, veni, vidi, vici. Leaving Argenton you
meet with nothing worth deſcription till you come
to
I. LIMOGES.
Limoges is a city of France, in the province of
Limoges. Guienne, and capital of the Limofin, in eaft lon-
gitude 1. 22. latitude 45. 52. 'Tis a large po-
pulous city, fituated near the river Vienne, partly
in a valley, and partly on the declivity of a hill.
It
through FRANCE.
265
It is rather long than broad, and furrounded with
a wall and deep ditches. Julius Cæfar mentions
it as a populous place in his time, when it was
called Lemovica; 'tis now the feat of a biſhop
fuffragan of Bourges, a generality and prefidial.
The ſtreets are generally narrow and crooked,
and the houſes ill built, the roofs projecting ſo far
into the ſtreet that you can ſcarce fee the fun at
noon day. However, there are fome tolerable
fquares, and feveral fountains. The cathedral is
dedicated to S. Stephen; befides which, there are
three confiderable abbeys, and ſeveral convents
of men. The inhabitants are not very polite, nor
very rich; the poorer fort make bread of chefnuts,
as there is not much corn in the country; when
they get other bread, they eat fo greedily, that
a Limofin is uſed in France as a fynonimous term
for a glutton.
From Limoges you proceed to Uferches, a town Ufercbes.
of France, in the province of Guienne, and ter-
ritory of Limofin, in eaſt longitude 1. 32. lati-
tude 45. 30.
This town has a very odd fitua-
tion, being feated on the top of a high rock, at
the bottom of which runs the river Vefere. By
means of this fituation, every inhabitant fees the
river at the bottom of his houfe or garden; and
every houſe, to look on the back part of it, has
the air of an antique.caftle, which has occafioned
the proverb, He that has a houſe at Uferches has
a caftle in Limofin. There is a very rich abbey
of Benedictin monks in this town, which de-
ferves a traveller's vifit. From Uferches you Brives.
come to Brives, a ſmall town of the Lower Li-
mofin, ſituated on the little river Curreze, which
forms in the neighbourhood the fineft landfkip in
the province. The town is called Brives la Gail-
larde, by reaſon of the beauty of its fitua-
tion, the fertility of the foil, and the num-
VOL. IV.
N
ber
266
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Cabors,
ber of its inhabitants. 'Tis the feat of a prefidial,
and a fenefchal. The parish churches of S. Mar-
tin, and S. Sernin, are worth ſeeing, as alſo the
convent of S. Antony of Padua, without the
town. Leaving Brives, the first place of note you
come to is
II. CA HOR S.
Cahors is the capital of the territory of Quercy,
in the province of Guienne, in France, in eaft
longitude 1. latitude 44. 25. This is a very an-
tient town, fituate in a peninſula formed by the
river Lot. Approaching the town by the ſuburb
of Fordy, you keep along a large quay, where
you fee nothing but rocks that border the river,
which you paſs by a great ftone-bridge. There
are two other ſtone-bridges, and feveral mills on
this river, which falls into the Garonne. At the
firſt bridge begins the high ftreet, which is very
narrow,and terminates at the market-place, where
ftands the town-houſe. Cahors is regularly forti-
fied, being furrounded with thick walls, which
incloſe the peninfula, and the fuburb la Bar. It
is the fee of a biſhop fuffragan of Bourdeaux, and
has likewiſe a prefidial, and a ſeneſchal's juriſdic-
tion. The cathedral dedicated to S. Stephen is a
fine old building; the next to which is the church
of S. Bartholomew. There are feveral religious
houſes, among which the Jefuits college is the
moft deferving of notice. There is an uni-
verfity here, which was founded in 1332, by
Pope John XXI, a native of this town, and a
fhoemaker's fon. They had formerly fome good
manufactures, which are now in a declining way,
and the whole city does not contain above eight
thouſand fouls. There are ftill fome ruins of
Roman buildings to be ſeen in the town, which
I
are
through FRANCE.
267
are a fufficient mark of its antiquity. The next
place worth dcfcription you come to is
III. MON TAU BAN.
Montauban is a city of France, in the province Montauban,
of Guienne, and territory of Quercy, in eaft lon-
gitude 1. 5. latitude 44. This is a large, well built,
populous town, fituate on a hill, at the bottom
of which runs the river Tarn, which a little way
from thence falls into the Garonne.
It was
built in 1144, by Alphonfus I. count of Toulouse,
and is now the feat of a bifhop fuffragan of Tou-
louſe, as alfo of a generality, a court of aids,
and a prefidial. The bifhop is lord of part of the
town, and has a vote in the ftates of Languedoc,
becauſe the greateſt part of his diocefe lies in that
province, as does half the bridge, and the fub-
urb. 'Tis divided into three parts, viz. Ville
Bourbonne, the Old Town, and the New Town.
The firft is only a kind of fuburb, inhabited chief-
ly by filk weavers. It is feparated from the o-
ther two by the river, over which there is a fine
ftone-bridge. Every one knows that this city,
which was one of the cautionary towns given
by the crown to the Proteftants, held out an ob-
finate fiege against Lewis XIII. in perfon, in
1629, who took it at length, and demoliſhed its
fortifications. It now contains about eighteen
thouſand fouls, and has a pretty good fik and
woolen manufacture. The principal places worth
viewing are the biſhop's palace, the griffon foun-
tain, and the Falefe which is an agreeable walk
on the banks of the Tarn. The great fquare of
Montauban is furrounded with a handfome piazza,
in the ſame taſte as Place Royale at Paris.
N 2
Thofe
268
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Gaillac.
Thoſe who travel for pleaſure, inſtead of tak-
ing the direct road from Montauban to Toulouse,
as given in the beginning of this chapter, may
make a little excurfion into the country to fee
Alby and Caftres, and fo come round by Lavaur
to Touloufe. From Montauban therefore you
go to Gaillac, a fmall town of Languedoc, in the
diftrict of Albigeois, fituate on the Tarn, which
here begins to be navigable. It is noted for its
excellent white-wine, and for an abbey of Bene-
Ay. dictins.--Nine miles from Gaillac, ftands the
city of Alby, capital of the territory of Albigeois,
in the province of Languedoc, in eaſt longitude
40. latitude 43. 50. This is a very ancient town,
ſituate on an eminence, near the river Tarn, for-
ty miles north-eaft of Toulouse. It is fortified
with good walls and ditches, and has a fine bridge
over the river. The ſtreets are narrow and un-
pleaſant, and the houſes ill built. Alby was made
the feat of an archbiſhop in 1676, who is temporal,
as well as fpiritual lord of the place; but the king
has a Viguier to adminiſter juftice. The cathedral
dedicated to S. Cecilia is a magnificent ſtructure; the
choir particularly, is one of the fineft in the kingdom.
They have alſo a collegiate church in the town,
and ſeveral convents of both fexes. This city is
famous for having been the feat of the Albigenfes,
a people whofe early oppofition to the pope's au-
thority, made fo much noiſe in the beginning of the
thirteenth century. From Alby you proceed fix
miles further to the little town of Realmont, pleafant-
ly fituated on the river Afſon in the dioceſe of Alby.
This was one of the first towns that embraced the
reformation, and became a place of arms for the
Proteftants, during the civil wars of France.
Caftres. Fourteen miles further lies the city of Caftres,
capital of the county of Caftres, in eaſt longitude
2. latitude 43. 40. This is a very ancient town,
which
through FRANCE.
269
which took its name from an encampment made
by Julius Cæfar in its neighbourhood. It is fi
tuated in a fine fruitful plain, furrounded with
pleaſant hills, planted with vineyards. The ri-
ver Agout divides it into two parts, and the little
river Durenque waſhes its walls, and mixes with the
Agout, at one of the extremities of the town.
Over theſe rivers, there are three handfome ftone
bridges. 'Tis the feat of a biſhop fuffragan of
Alby, as alfo of a fenefchal, who has two lieutenants
general under him. The cathedral, dedicated to S.
Benedict, is a fine modern building. The epifcopal
palace is one of the beautifulleft in France, and
was built after the defigning of Manfart, the
king's architect. It is fituate oppofite the church,
on the banks of the river, and adorned with
beautiful gardens, from whence there is a fine
profpect of the country. There are feveral other
churches and convents in town, but none of
them are worth particular notice. This city was
one of the cautionary towns of the French
Proteftants, and had a tribunal for the deci-
fion of their caufes, according to the edict of
Nantes, but upon the revocation of that edict,
the tribunal was fuppreffed, and the fortifications of
the town demoliſhed. Along the abovementioned
little river, there is a handſome mall. The inhabi-
tants have a good woolen manufacture of flanels,
crapes, and other ſtuffs. About three miles
from the town on the river, near the village of
Saix, there is a beautiful monaftery of Carthufian
monks, which no traveller fhould omit feeing.
From Caftres you proceed fifteen miles further to Lever
Lavaur, a city of Languedoc, in the district of
Touloufe, fituate on the river Agout, in a very fruit-
ful country. It has nothing worth notice, but its
title of bishopric, which is one of the beſt in
N. 3
the
270
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Toulouse.
the province. Proceeding fifteen miles further
you come to
IV. TOULOUSE.
Toulouse is the capital of Languedoc in France,
in eaft longitude 1. 5. latitude 43. 40. This is
a city of great antiquity, being mentioned in
history as one of the moft flouriſhing towns of
Gaul. 'Tis now one of the moſt confiderable
cities in the kingdom, the feat of an archbishop,
of an univerſity, and a parliament; it has like-
wife a fenefchal's jurifdiction, and a viguery.
Situation. The fituation of this city is extremely pleafant,
in a large fruitful plain, on the river Garonne,
which divides it into two unequal parts, that com-
municate by a great ftone-bridge. The divifion
on this fide of the Garonne is called the city, and
is fubdivided into eight wards, which belong to
Languedoc; the other is called S. Cyprian, and
Buildings. belongs to Gascony. The whole city is thought
to be the biggeft in France next to Paris, but
is not proportionably populous, containing no
more than eighteen or nineteen thousand families.
The ſtreets are large and handſome; and the town
walls, as well as the houſes, are built of brick.
The Garonne forms an iſland in the town, called
Tounis, which is inhabited chiefly by dyers.
Churches.
The cathedral dedicated to S. Stephen is re-
markable for feveral handfome chapels, a mon-
ftrous large bell, and a magnificent choir. It
ftands in a large fquare, adorned with a fountain
without water, on which there is a handfome
obelifk. The church of S. Saturnin, firft bishop
of Toulouſe, is a large magnificent edifice, but
very dark; it is valued by the inhabitants chiefly
for its vaft treaſure of relics. The parish church
of Dalbade is one of the handfomeft in town,
and
through FRANCE.
271
and was formerly a heathen temple dedicated to
Apollo. There is not a city in France, except
Paris, that has fo great a number of religious
houſes, colleges, and hofpitals. The convent
of the Cordeliers has fome handfome paintings
in the cloyſters, reprefenting the life of S.
Francis; it is alſo noted for a vault which
preferves dead bodies from corruption. The Do-
minican convent is remarkable for the body of
S. Thomas of Aquin. The Carmelites have a cu-
rious painting in their cloyſter, repreſenting the
history of Charles VI's delivery out of a wood,
when he had loft himself a hunting. The king
and the rest of the nobility that attended him are
all drawn in full length. The Daurade, belong-
ing to the Benedictins, is noted for the Mo-
faic paintings in the choir, the organ, and the
baptiftry. The Jefuits have three houſes; their
college is a large and beautiful edifice; their
Maillon Profeffe, is remarkable for the marble
tomb of Henry duke of Montmorency, who was
beheaded at Toulouse in the reign of Lewis XIII.
The other religious places worth viewing are the
Chartreufe, without the town, the bare-footed
Carmelites, and the Minims.
The town-houſe is a magnificent building, Other public
which they call the capitol, and the efchivins or buildings.
confuls, they call Capitouls. There are feveral
apartments in this edifice that merit the attention
of the curious, particularly the hall of the illuf-
trious men, where you fee the bufts of all the
counts of Touloufe. Near the town-houſe is the
arfenal, which is alfo worthy of notice, as well as
the archbishop's palace. The parliament of Tou-
louſe is the firft in the kingdom next to that of
Paris; it was inftituted in 1443, by Charles
VII. The court where they affemble was the
ancient palace of the counts of Toulouse. The
N 4
univerſity
272
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
University, univerfity was founded in 1233, and is famous
chiefly for the ftudy of law. There was a feaft
of floral games inftituted in this city in 1324, for
the encouragement of poetry, and other branches
of polite learning, under the direction of their ma-
giftrates, who diftributed prizes of three golden
flowers to thofe who fucceeded beft in their per-
Academy, formances. This feaft or company was erected
into an academy of Belles Lettres by Lewis XIV.
Along the Garonne, there is a handfome quay,
with a Courſe confifting of a fine walk of trees,.
as they have in moſt of the great cities in
France.
Trade.
Touloufe is extremely well fituated for trade,
lying almoft half way between the Mediterra-
nean and the ocean, and near the weft end of the
Royal Canal. Royal Canal. This is a ftupendous work, de-
figned to convey goods from the Bay of Biscay
to the Gulph of Lyons, in fifteen days, without
any danger, by forming a communication be-
twixt the two feas, by the help of the Garonne.
It extends fixty-three French leagues in length,
and is in most parts thirty feet broad; it was be-
gun by Lewis XIV. in 1660, and finiſhed in 1680,
under the direction of Picquet, the engineer and
his fons. And yet this city is neither rich nor
populous, becauſe merchants chufe to fend their
goods by long fea round about Spain in time of
peace, rather than by this canal; which is ow-
ing to the trouble and expence attending the na-
vigation of the canal, from the great number of
fluices upon it, by which they are obliged to
raife the water, wherever the ground finks.
However, in war time, it is of uſe to the country,
as they can tranſport their goods from one place
to another, without running the riſk of their be-
ing taken at fea. The trade of Toulouse is in-
confiderable in proportion to the extent of the
town;
through FRANCE.
273
own; it conſiſts in Spanish wool, coarſe hang-
ings, and ſtuffs made of filk, and wool, of ſmall
value. The Roman Antiquities are alfo worth a Antiquities
traveller's notice; there being ftill the remains
of an amphitheatre, fome temples, aqueducts,
and a capitol. The honour of building a capitol
was conferred by the Romans, only on the largeft
towns that were Roman colonies; that of Ton-
loufe was dedicated to Jupiter, and built on a
high ground; till the thirteenth century it was
ufed as a town-houfe, from whence their efche-
vins were called capitouls. The ruins of it are
ſtill to be ſeen on the banks of the Garonne, near
the little church which formerly belonged to the
inquifition.
From Toulouſe you fet out for Narbonne, and Caftelnaudary
the first town you come to, is Caftelnaudary, a
city of Upper Languedoc, in the diftrict of Larau-
gais, about three miles to the weftward of S.
Papoul. It is fituated in a fruitful plain, and
watered with the little river or bafon of the canal
of Lauguedoc. The roofs of the houfes project
very far into the ftreets, ſo as to render them
vaftly dark. The collegiate church, and that of
the Carmelites, are the principal places worth
feeing. The above-mentioned famous canal of
Languedoc, begins in this neighbourhood; it is
formed by the junction of the Aude which falls
into the Mediterranean, and the Garonne, which
empties itſelf into the ocean. You cross the
Aude over a ſtone bridge, and you difcover on an-
eminence, the flones of Norouſe. The honeſt in-
habitants of that country relate, that a poor wo-
man going along with feven fmall ftones in her
apron, flung them feparately into the field, fay-
ing, that theſe ftones would increaſe, ſo as to
join one another, when women laid afide all
modefty; they now are either joined, or very
N 5
near
274
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Carcaffonne,
Narbonne.
near it; fo that we may fay of this ſtory, that
the prophecy is pretty nigh fulfilled. Leaving
Caftelnaudary, you meet with no place worth de-
fcription till you come to
V. CARCASSONNE.
Carcaffonne is a town of the province of Lan-
guedoc in France, in caft longitude 2. latitude 43.
20. This is an ancient city, as appears by the
old manufcripts ftill kept there, writ on the bark
of trees, linen, and fuch other materials. It is
fituate on the river Aude, which divides it into
two parts, the upper and lower, both joined by
a ſtone bridge. The upper is called the city,
and ſtands on a hill, encompaffed with a double
wall, towers, and ditches, and has moreover a
ftrong caftle, which commands both the upper
and lower towns. The lower part is called the
town, and is very well built, the ftreets fpacious
and regular, and terminating in a fquare, from
whence you fee the four gates of the town.
Carcafonne is the fee of a biſhop, fuffragan of
Narbonne, of a fenefchal, and a prefidial.
cathedral is remarkable only for its antiquity;
but the other churches, convents, and public
buildings make a handfome appearance. The in-
habitants have a great woolen manufacture. The
adjacent country is very fruitful, and the neigh-
bouring mountains afford fome marble quarries.
VI. NARBONNE.
The
Narbonne is a city of France, in the province
of Languedoc, in east longitude 2. 40. latitude
43. 18.
This is a very ancient city, efteemed
fo much by the Romans, that they called it their
bulwark against the Gauls, made it the capital
of
through FRANCE.
275
of their first colony, from hence called Gallia
Narbonenfis, and the refidence of their proconful.
At prefent 'tis the fee of an archbishop, who by
virtue of his office, is prefident of the ſtates of
Languedoc. It is fituate in a bottom, almoſt ſur-
rounded with mountains, on a canal, which af-
fords it a communication with the Canal Royal,
and the river Aude on the one fide, and with
the Mediterranean on the other, from whence
it is but fix miles diftant, and fixty from Mont-
pellier. 'Tis a large city, ftrongly fortified in
the reign of Francis I. The canal, called La
Roubine, divides it into two parts, the town and
the city; from the city you paſs to the town over
a bridge, which has houfes built on it on both
fides, inhabited by principal merchants. In this
part of Narbonne there is a fquare with a hand-
fome fountain, and a large market-place. The
cathedral is an old Gethic ftructure, that has very
little in it to be admired, except the marble tombs
of the archbiſhops, a beautiful picture of Lazarus
raiſed from the dead, and a fine organ. The
archbishop's palace deferves to be feen, being a
kind of fortrefs, encompaffed with large fquare
towers. There are befides five parish churches, and
ſeveral convents of men and women, among
which the most deferving of notice are the col-
legiate church of S. Paul, remarkable for its fine
tapeftry, the collegiate church of S. Sebaftian,
built by Charlemain, and the church of the Car-
melite nuns, remarkable for the beauty of the
marble of the high altar and the chapels;
the feminary merits alfo the attention of
the curious, being a very handfome build-
ing. The air of this city is very unwholfome.
becauſe of the adjacent lakes and pools, though
antiently when thefe were well drained, they
had a very good air. The Romans beautified
this town, and gave it large privileges. There
N 6
2:0
276
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Perpignan.
are a vast number of ruins ftill extant of their
antient magnificence, which a traveller ſhould
not omit feeing, as thofe of a capitol, an amphi-
theatre of marble, aqueducts, and other ufeful
and ſumptuous edifices. There are alfo feveral
infcriptions and baffo-relievos to be ſeen, as among
the reft thoſe of the houfe of the vicounty, and
that oppofite the street of Notre Dame La Ma-
jour.
VII. PERPIGNAN.
"Perpignan is a city of Spain in the province of
Catalonia, and capital of the territory of Rouf-
fillon, in caft longitude 2. 35. latitude 43. This
city is fituated on the river Tet, about three
miles to the weftward of the fea, partly on a
hill, and partly on a bottom. It was formerly
a Spanish town, but taken by the French in the
laft century, and confirmed to them by the
Pyrenean treaty. Its fituation as a frontier town,
renders it one of the keys of France, wherefore
it is very regularly fortified, and defended by a
ſtrong citadel. 'Tis a bishop's fee, who is fuffra-
gan of Narbonne; and the feat of an univerſity,
founded by Peter king of Arragon. The cathe-
dral dedicated to S. John is a fine large old edi •
fice, whofe choir is inclofed with white marble.
There are ſeveral other churches, convents, and
hofpitals in the town; as alfo, two colleges of
Jefuits, and a feminary. The town-houfe is re-
markable for a large clock, and ftands in a
quarter of the town filled with merchants; in
the great market-place there is a handſome foun-
tain. The inhabitants are a mixture of French
and Spaniards, and ſpeak both languages indif-
ferently.
Remarkalle
through FRANCE.
277
Remarkable places in the route from Paris to
Limoges, by Moulins and Clermont.
We have already given a deſcription of Mou- S. Pourfin.
lins in this volume page 127. From Moulins you
proceed to S. Pourfin, a ſmall town of the Bour-
bonnois, fituate on the river Cioule, which a little
lower falls into the Allier.
From hence you
proceed to Gannat, a fmall town of the Bour- Gannet,
bonnois, fituate in a very fruitful country. They
have only one large ftreet in the town; but there
is a handfome ſquare, and ſome good churches,
of which S. Stephen, and that of the Holy Cros
are the beſt. There is alſo a royal caſtle here,
flanked with four round towers. From Gannat
you proceed to
1. RIO M.
Riom is a town of France, in the province of Rim
Lionsis, and territory of Auvergne, in eaſt longi-
tude 3. 13. latitude 45. 50. This town is fituated
on a ſmall eminence, from, whence there is a moſt
agreeable profpect, which has given it the name
of the garden of Auvergne. 'Tis the capital of
the dutchy, has a ſeneſchal's juriſdiction, a gene-
rality, one of the moſt confiderable prefidials in
France, an election, a mint, and confular jurif
diction. The high ſtreet is very broad and long,
extending from one end of the town to the
other; and the houſes are in general well built.
There are feveral monafteries, moft of which are
adorned with fountains and pleafant walks. Moft
of the churches are handſome buildings. There
are three confiderable chapters in the town, among
which the building of that of the Holy Chapel
is
278
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
is much eſteemed.
Wermont.
The caftle where the courts
of judicature are kept, was built by John duke of
Berry, third fon to king John.
II. CLERMONT.
Clermont is the capital of Lower Auvergne, in
the province of Lyonois, in France, in eaſt lon-
gitude 33. 20. latitude 45. 42. This is a large
well built city, fituate on a fmall eminence, near
the river Tiretaine, furrounded on one fide with
fruitful hills, in the form of a horfe-fhoe, and
on the other with pleaſant meadows. By the
Romans it was called Arverna Civitas, and we
read that Vercingetorix held it out againſt Cæfar,
and obliged him to raiſe the fiege. 'Tis now the
feat of a bishop, a prefidial, and a court of aids.
The cathedral is a flately fabric, covered with a
mixture of pewter and lead. The collegiate
church of our Lady Du Port, the church of S.
Geneft, the feminary, and the Jefuits college,
are worth feeing; as alfo the public fquares, the
palace of the prefidial, the bishop's palace, the
court of aids, the abbey of S. Alirye, &c. There
is a bridge here over the river, which is made of
ftone, formed from the water of a neighbouring
fountain. Abundance of Roman medals, and other
antiquities, are frequently dug up near this city,
where there are marble columns, and feveral other
remains of Roman buildings. Leaving Clermont you
meet with nothing worth defcription, till you
come to Limoges. From Limoges to Narbonne
and Perpignan, you have been directed by the
preceding route.
Remarkable
through FRANCE.
Remarkable places from Pont S. Eſprit to
Narbonne and Perpignan.
Ujetor
We have already given a defcription of Pont
S. Efprit, in the road from Paris to Lyons, page
159. From Pont S. Efprit you go to Bagnols, a Bagnols.
fmall town of Lower Languedoc, in the diocefe
of Uſez, fituate on the river Ceſe, in a very fruit-
ful territory. The ftreets are narrow and dirty;
the town contains a priory, which is the pariſh
church, with three convents of men, and two of
women. The great ſquare in the middle of the
town is one of the fineſt in Languedoc. The
river Cefe, which paffes by it, is ſaid to carry a
golden fand. Leaving Bagnols, you proceed to
Nifmes, and a little way to the right, you paſs by
the city of Uſex, the capital of a dutchy, as well as
biſhopric in Lower-Languedoc, fituate among the
mountains, on the little river Eyfent or Alzon.
It is a ſmall place, containing about feven or
eight hundred families. The cathedral is dedi-
cated to S. Thierry; the terrace on one fide of it
affords an admirable proſpect of the neighbouring
country. This town, though fmall, has a very
confiderable trade in woolen goods, eſpecially in
ferges, which are much efteemed. Here is the
fountain D'Aure, which furnishes the water of
the aqueduct of Pont du Guard. All over the
town there are a great number of ftone arches,
which are faid to have been erected to defend
the inhabitants from the heat of the fun in fum-
mer. Near the village of Remoulins, in your way
to Nifmes, ftands the famous Pont du Guard, of
which fee a defcription a little lower, p. 282.
I. NISMES.
280
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Nifmes
I. NISME S.
Nifmes is a city of France, in the Lower Lan-
guedoc, in eaft longitude 4. 26. latitude 43. 40.
This is a very ancient city, by the Romans called.
Nemaufis, from the woods that anciently fur-
rounded it, and noted for a colony fixed here by
Auguftus, immediately after the battle of Actium.
This emperor and his fucceffors built many ftately
edifices in this city, the remains of which are a
proof of its ancient magnificence. 'Tis now the feat
of a bishop, fuffragan of Narbonne, a prefidial, and
a fenefchal, who has alfo jurifdiction over Beau--
Situation. caire. Its fituation is extremely pleaſant, being.
encompaſſed on one fide with hills, covered with
fruit trees, and vineyards, and on the other with
pleaſant fields, watered with rivulets that fall from
the neighbouring mountains. On the hill to-
wards the weft end of the town, Lewis XIV.
built a citadel, compofed of feveral baſtions.
The town is large, containing above twelve
thouſand families; the ftreets are fpacious, and
the houſes generally well built. The cathedral
dedicated to the bleffed Virgin, is an old
Gothic building. The Jefuits have a hand-
fome modern church, very well worth feeing;
as alfo the Auguftinians, which is built in the
fquare houſe, whereof hereafter. There are fe-
veral other churches and convents, none of which
contain any thing deferving of particular notice.
The finest part of the town is near the great
market-place; the ftreets that terminate in this
quarter, are very handfome, as alſo thoſe near
the Jefuits college, and towards the neighbour-
ing fquares, where there are feveral croffes of
marble as white as alabafter, remarkable for
divers figures on the top. The Courfe where
Buildings.
the
through FRANCE.
281
the inhabitants walk is a very pretty place, juſt
oppofite the cathedral. They have a famous
academy in this town, which was eftablifhed in
1682. The inhabitants have confiderable Trade.
woolen and filk manufactures, in which they
carry on a good trade, as alfo in other commo-
dities that grow or are confumed in Languedoc.
The many antiquities of the city of Nifmes, Antiquities,
render it, in fome meaſure, a fecond Rome. But
among all the antiquities there is none that more
deſerves the attention of the curious, than the
amphitheatre, which is the moſt folid and intire
piece extant of the kind in all Europe. It is of
an oval figure, having two rows of arches,
which form two rows of galleries, one over the
other, confifting of fixty arches each, being 115
fathoms in circumference. The entrance is by
four doors, placed east, weft, north, and fouth.
The whole edifice confifts of three orders of archi-
tecture, built of large ftones as durable as marble,
without mortar or plaifter. The feats were fo
well placed, and with fuch proportion, as to be
able to contain twenty thousand perfons. The
area in the middle of the theatre, where their
combats and fhews were exhibited, is an hundred
feet in diameter, filledup at prefent with little houfes
of wool combers, and other tradefmen, which is
a very great fhame, as it is a hindrance to the
inner profpect. The outſide is adorned with
columns and handfome cornifhes, and on feveral.
of the ftones are baffo-relievos, with the figures of
Romulus and Remus fuckled by a wolf; as alfo.
of combats of gladiators, bulls, priapus's, cro--
codils, &c. From the amphitheatre you go to,
fee the Square-houſe, an admirable piece of Co-
rinthian architecture, which may be juftly com--
pared to the Rotunda at Rome. This building is
feventy-four feet long, and about forty-two
broad
282
The TRAVEL LER'S GUIDE
Pont du
Guard.
broad, has fix columns in the front, and ten on
each fide. On the top it is flat, and covered
with large fquare free ftones, upon which people
walk. On the cieling there are feveral figures,
which are much efteemed by Antiquarians. This
building was formerly a Pagan temple, called the
Bafilica of Plotina, to whom it was dedicated by
the emperor Adrian, in acknowledgment to that
princefs for prevailing on the Emperor Adrian
to adopt him. It was filled afterwards with
tradefmen's habitations in the fame manner
as the amphitheatre, and disfigured with other
paltry buildings; but Lewis XIV. made a grant
of it to the Auguftinian friars, who cleared it of
all its rubbish, decorated the inner part, and
converted it into a Chriftian church in 1685.
Without the walls on the top of a high hill,
there is an ancient building, called the great
tower. It was of a prodigious height, in form
of a pyramid, and feems to have been defigned
for a watch tower, for the fea is faid to have
come up formerly to the foot of this hill. 'Tis
built of ſmall ſquare ftones, fo well cemented,
that 'tis hard to be demolished, At the foot of
the hill rifes a fountain in form of a pond, with a
whirlpool in the middle, which fwallows up
every thing that comes near it, without being feen
any more. From hence comes the river Viſre,
fo called from its tranfparent colour; and from
this fountain there is a canal drawn through the
city. Here alſo are the ruins of the temple of
Diana, of a fquare form, and built of large
ftones, fupported by columns, adorned with chapi-
ters, architraves, and niches in the walls for their
idols.
Thoſe that travel for pleaſure ſhould not ne-
glect feeing the famous Pont du Guard in this
neighbourhood; and may likewife make a little
excurfion
through FRANCE.
283
excurfion to fee the towns of Beaucaire, and
Tarafcon.--Pont du Guard is nine miles north
of Nifmes, and juftly reckoned one of the
nobleft and compleateft remains of Romanantiqui-
ty, having been built by the Romans to ſupport
an aqueduct that brought water to the city of
Nifmes: This admirable ftructure, lies over the
river Gardon, and is indeed three bridges, one
upon another, which join two mountains toge-
ther. On the banks of the river Gardon, there are
two mountains, each of them fifteen fathom
high, over which the aqueduct is carried. The
whole work is of the Tufcan order, formed of
three rows of arches, one over another, all built
of free ſtone, of the fame confiftency as the am-
phitheatre of Nifmes. The loweſt bridge which
lies over the river Gardon, has fix arches, each
of them fifty-eight feet wide, and is fourfcore
and three in heighth. On this they have con-
trived a ſpace three or four feet wide, by way of
a gallery, for foot and horſe paffengers to go
from one fide of the bridge to the other. The
fecond bridge is fupported by eleven arches of the
fame height and breadth as the former, but not
fo thick, nor is there a way for people to pafs
over. The third, which ftands upon thirty-five
arches, and fupports the aqueduct, is five hun-
dred and fourſcore feet and a half in length; and
the whole height of the bridges, from the river
which runs under the lowermoft arch, to the top
of the uppermoft, is 186 feet. This aqueduct,
when it came near the city, was divided into
three branches, one of which brought the water
to the theatre, as has been already obferved, the
fecond fupplied a great fountain at Nimes, and
the third ſerved feveral private houſes. The
whole length of the aqueduct, taking in all its
windings, is no lefs than twenty-feven miles.
The water of the river Gardon was brought into
the
284
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Beaucaire.
the city by another aqueduct, of which there
are ſtill ſome remains.
Beaucaire is a town of Languedoc, fituate on
the weſtern fhore of the river Rhone, over-againft
Tarafcon, twelve miles to the eastward of Nifmes,
in caft longitude 4. 40. latitude 43. 40. This
town is ſmall but extremely populous, and noted
for the fair of S. Magdalen, which is held here
every year. This fair lafts fix days, free of
all duties, and brings a vaft number of merchants
from all parts upon this occafion. Near this town
there is a fubterraneous vault, which goes under
the Rhone, and formerly went quite across to
Tarafcon.
Tarafcon. Tarafcon is a town of France, in the province
of Provence, in eaft longitude 4. 50. latitude 43.
40. This is a large fortified town, fituate on
the river Rhone, eight miles north of Arles,
and juft over-againſt Beaucaire, with which it
communicates by a bridge of boats. The caftle
was built by Renatus king of Sicily, whofe pic-
ture with that of Queen Joan is feen in the
court. The collegiate church is dedicated to
S. Martha, whoſe relics are preſerved in a golden
fhrine, enriched with diamonds, and weighing
22000 ducats. There are feveral other churches
and religious houſes, but none of them contain
any thing remarkable. But to return to our
journey from Nijmes you proceed to Lunel, a
fmall town of Languedoc, which has been often
ruined in the civil wars. The bridge of Lunel is
about a mile and a half from the town.
From
Lunel you fet forward, and meet with nothing
worth notice, till you come to
IL. MONT-
through FRANCE.
285
II. MONTPELLIER.
Montpellier is a city of France, in the province Montpellierà
<of Languedoc, in eaft longitude 3. 50. latitude
43.37. This is a ſmall but handſome city, fi-Situation.
tuated on a hill, at the foot of which runs the
river Lez, fix miles from the Mediterranean, of
which they have a fine profpect to the fouth-
ward, and of a fine country to the northward.
It was built upon the ruins of Maguellonne, which
was deſtroyed by Charles Martel in 738, becauſe
it ferved as a retreat to the Saracens. It had the
name of Mons Puellarum, from an hermitage
which ſtood here before the city was built, inha-
bited by two young women, of whofe fanctity
the people had a great opinion. The river Lez
receives the ſmall river Merdanfon, which fills
part of the wide ditches with which this city is
is fortified. Lewis XIII. built here a citadel, Fortifications
flanked with four royal baftions. One of the
gates of the town is built after the model of a tri-
umphal arch, on which there are feveral baſſo-re-
lievo's and infcriptions expreffing the memorable
actions of Lewis XIV. The houſes are for the Building
most part of free-ftone, and well built; the
ftreets are narrow and crooked, but kept pretty
clean, by means of their declivity, and the little
fubterraneous canals or fewers that carry the
dirt out of town. This was one of the cau-
tionary fortreffes given by Henry IV. to the Pro-
teſtants, but it was taken from them after a long
fiege by Lewis XIII. in 1622. 'Tis now the
fee of a biſhop, and the feat of a generality, a
prefidial, a court of aids, a chamber of accounts,
and a mint. There are a great many ſtately build-
ings in the town which deſerve a traveller's atten-
tion. The cathedral dedicated to S. Stephen, was
deſtroyed
286
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
deftroyed by the Proteftants in the civil wars,
and rebuilt in a beautiful manner by Cardinal
Richlieu. The church of our Lady,one of the three
parish churches, is remarkable for its fteeple, the
high altar, and the chapel of our Lady. The
Jefuits have a handfome college, but the other re-
ligious houſes of both fexes have nothing re-
markable. The bishop's palace is a handfome
ftructure, all of free-ftone. The town-houſe is
admired for its beautiful halls, moft elegantly
painted. The ftates of Languedoc ordered a fine
equeftrian ftatue to be caft at Paris in brafs, by
Goizevox, and erected it in this town on a
handſome pedeſtal of marble. The fquare of
Canourgne, where the better fort of people meet
in fummer evenings, to hear the concerts and fe-
renades, is the handfomelt in town. Towards
nine in the evening, there is generally a cool
breeze, by the inhabitants called Courbin, with-
out which it would be in poffible to live in Lower
Languedoc, the weather is fo hot. The Courſe
called des Ormeaux, is near the gate of Sonnerie,
and beautifully adorned with alleys of trees, that
border the river Merdanfon. The walks about
the town are extremely pleaſant, where the com-
pany that reſort to this city, divert themſelves in
the evening. The inhabitants are polite and fo-
ciable; their women the handfomeft in France,
and extremely free in converfation, infomuch that
that the French proverb fays, the women of Mont-
pellier are fo wife, that they have nothing to learn
Trade. on their wedding-day. The trade of this town
is confiderable, for they have a large filk manu-
facture, and another of wool; they likewiſe
whiten great quantities of wax, which they bring
from the Levant, and have a good trade in fkins,
ftrong waters, brandy, cinnamon waters, &c. as
alfo in vermilion, and confection of alkermes.
Walks.
They
ات السلامة المنت
through FRANCE.
287
They generally make no less than 4000 pieces.
of fuftian annually, the cotton of which comes
from the Levant; and they have a particular ma
nufacture to themſelves, viz. that of verdegreaſe,
which is made with copper plates, and chiefly the
bufinefs of women.
Montpelier is famous for its univerfity, and Univerſity?
particularly for its phyfical ſchools, frequented
by ftudents from all parts of Europe. And
indeed a more commodious fituation for that
itudy could not be chofen in all France, for the
climate is extremely ferene and temperate, and
the country fo abounds with vegetables, that it
is but one large phyfic garden. The foundation
of this univerſity is afcribed to the diſciples of
Averroes and Avicenna in 1196, but it was not
perfectly eſtabliſhed till 1220. The ceremonies
performed in making a doctor of phyfic, are worth
feeing, particularly their dreffing and undreffing
the candidate ſeven times with Rabelais's gown,
in acknowledgment for his having procured the
re-eſtabliſhment of the privileges of the univerfity.
Without the town, lies the king's phyfic garden,
well ſtored with medicinal herbs, digefted into
feveral partitions, each having an infcription over
the door fhewing what kind it contains.
The
number of apothecaries in this fmall city is in-
credible; fome fay near two hundred, who all live
very well however on the many compofitions
they make, which from hence are diftributed to
all parts of Europe, as confection of alkermes,
Hungary water, oil of ſpike, capillary-fyrop, ef-
fences, perfumes, treacle equal to that of Venice,
&c. Vaft numbers of confumptive people flock
hither from all parts of Europe, eſpecially from
England, to breathe this air, which is faid to
have a good effect upon bodies of a moift and
phlegmatic temperament, but in dry and choleric
conftitutions it rather exafperates the diftemper.
منوع
The
£88
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Pezenas.
Beziers.
They have alfo an academy of ſciences at Mont-
pellier, eftablished by the late king in 1705,
which is united with the academy of fciences at
Paris. About twelve miles from Montpellier, on
the lake of Latte, ftands the little town of Fron-
tignan, famous for its Muſcate wine. Leaving
Montpellier, in your way to Narbonne, the firft
place worth deſcription you come to, is
III. PEZENAS.
Pezenas is a town of France, in the province of
Languedoc, in eaft longitude 3. 12. latitude 43.
30. It is fituated on an eminence, on the river
Peyne, and not far from the Erraut, in a moſt
fruitful pleaſant country. 'Tis confiderable for is
antiquity, and for having been honoured frequent-
ly with the affemblies of the ftates of Languedoc.
The agreeable avenues to the town, the pleaſant
walks, the handſome ſquares adorned with foun-
tains, and the neatneſs of the buildings, render it
one of the prettieft little towns in France. They
have a collegiate church, with a college of
the prieſts of the oratory, a convent of Capu-
chins, and another of Cordeliers out of town.
The air of this town is very wholfome, and the
climate temperate. The inhabitants have a
woolen manufacture, and fell a confiderable
quantity of cloth in fair-time.
IV. BEZIERS.
Beziers is a city of Lower Languedoc, in eaſt lon-
gitude 3. latitude 43. 25. This is a very ancient
place, having been made a colony in the time of
Julius Cæfar. 'Tis now the feat of a biſhop
fuffragan of Narbonne, as alfo of a prefidial and a
fenefchal. It ſtands on a hill, at the foot of
which
through FRANCE.
289
*
which runs the little river Orbre, which diſcharges
itfelf fix miles from thence in the Mediter-
ranean. The Royal Canal paffes likewife in its
neighbourhood. The town is large and well
built, fo as to pass for one of the prettieft in
France, but is not proportionably populous.
The ſtreets are long and fpacious, as alfo its
fquares, the principal of which are thoſe of
L'Hort, the market, and the fountain. The
cathedral dedicated to S. Nazarius, is very large,
but contains nothing remarkable. Among the
religious houſes, the moft worthy of curiofity,
are the abbey of S. James of the order of Au-
guftinians, the Dominican convent, and the Je-
fuits college, which laft is a very elegant build-
ing. From the terrafs before the cathedral, there
is a moft charming profpect, extending over the
valley, through which the river Orbre paffes;
and the hills beyond it rifing infenfibly, form a
kind of amphitheatre, covered with olives and
vineyards. The Romans adorned this town with
an amphitheatre, which was ruined by the Goths ;
but the remains of it are ftill to be feen.
To the left of Bezieres, about fifteen miles Agde.
eaſtward, ſtands the town of Agde, in the pro-
vince of Languedoc, in eaſt longitude 3. 20. la-
titude 43. 25. This is reckoned one of the oldeſt
towns in France, and frequently mentioned in
hiſtory by the name of Agatha Maffilienfium.
'Tis now the feat of a bifhop, who is lord of the
town. It is fituated on the river Erraut, about
a mile and a half from the place where it falls
into the Gulph of Lyons. The town is not large,
but well built, and very populous, extending a-
long the river Erraut, which forms a port for
ſmall barks, and is for the most part built of black
ftone. At the mouth of the river there is a little
fort for its defence. Moft of the inhabitants are
merchants
VOL. IV.
O
290
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
+
Mont Louis.
merchants or feamen, who carry on a pretty
good trade in wine. The cathedral dedicated to
S. Stephen, has a large fquare ſteeple; but the
other buildings have nothing remarkable. --A
little eaſtward of Agde, ftands the ſmall port town
of Cette, fituate on the Bay of Maguelone, and
fortified by the late king for the protection of
this coaft. Leaving Bezieres you meet with no-
thing worth notice, till you come to Narbonne.
We have given a defcription of Narbonne in the
firſt route, as alfo of Perpignan, fo that we have
only to give fome account of the remarkable
places between Perpignan and Madrid.
Remarkable places in the route from Per-
pignan to Madrid.
Leaving Perpignan you proceed to Mont Louis,
the laſt town belonging to France, in the county
of Rouillon, about thirty miles diftant from
Perpignan, fituate on the Pyrenean mountains,
and making the divifion of Cerdagne and Conflant.
It a pretty little town, built and fortified by Lewis
XIV. in 1681, to which he added a fine citadel,
and made it one of the ftrongeſt fortreffes on the
fide of Spain. From Mont Louis you proceed
Girona, to Girona, a large city of Spain, in the province
of Catalonia, in eaft longitude 2. 35. latitude
42. This is a very ancient city, the fee of a
biſhop, fuffragan of Tarragona. It is fituate on
the river Ter, within fifteen miles of the fea, and
about forty north-east of Barcelona, The
town is pretty well fortified, but has no remar
kable buildings.
1. BAR
through FRANCE.
291
I. BARCELONA.
Barcelona is the capital of Catalonia in Spain, Barleena.
in eaſt longitude 2. latitude 41. 20. This is a
large, well built, populous city, fituate in a fine
plain, along the fhore of the Mediterranean,
about three hundred miles from Madrid. 'Tis
the fee of a biſhop, fuffragan of Tarragona, the
feat of a ſovereign court, an univerſity, and a
tribunal of the inquifition. The city is of an
oblong form, containing about 15000 houſes.
The fortifications are very good, confifting of
ftrong walls, covered by baftions, and defended
by the fort of Montjoy, which ſtands on a rocky
mountain, near a mile to the weft end of it. Á
mole runs out into the fea, which fecures fmall
veſſels, but the larger fhips lie in the road expoſed
to ſtorms. It is divided into the old and new
town, ſeparated from each other by a wall and
a ditch, the old town inclofing the new. They
have ſeveral beautiful ftreets and fquares, and
magnificent churches. They have manufactures
both of filk and woolen, and excel in thofe of
iron and ſteel. Their trade is likewiſe confider-
able in wine, brandy, cloth, and coverings for
beds. The neighbouring country is very plea-
fant and fruitful, well watered by ſprings and ri-
vulets, and thick fet with villages. The hard-
fhips this city went through during the Spaniſh
war, and the memorable fiege it fuftained in
1714 againſt the duke of Berwick, are too well
known in hiſtory to require a new recital.
0 2
II. LERIDA.
291
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Lerida.
II. LERIDA.
Lerida is a city of Spain, in the province of
Catalonia, in eaft longitude 5. latitude 41. 20.
This city was inhabited by a colony of the Ro-
mans, and was the chief town of the Illergetes.
'Tis now the fee of a bishop, fuffragan of Tar-
ragona, and likewiſe the feat of an univerfity.
The town is fmall, but well fortified, and has
a ftrong caſtle on the top of a neighbouring
mountain, formerly the palace of the kings of
Arragon. The biſhop has a ſtately palace, and
twelve thouſand ducats per annum. Joining
to the cathedral there is a noble ftone cloy-
fter, with large windows, from whence there
is a pleaſant profpect of the town, and neigh-
bouring country. This city declared for king
Charles after the reduction of Barcelona in 1705,
but was taken by ftorm by the duke of Orleans
after the battle of Almanza,
III. SARAGOSSA.
Saragoffa. Saragoffa is the capital of the province of Ar-
ragon in Spain, in weft longitude 1. 15. latitude
41. 32. This is reckoned one of the fineſt cities
in Spain, fituate in a vaft plain on the banks of
the river Ebro, which here receives two other
rivers, viz. the Gallego and the Guerva. The
town is large, furrounded with a wall, and other
antique fortifications of no great ftrength. The
Romans had a colony here in the time of Auguf
tus, from whence it is fuppofed to have obtained
the name of Cafaraugufta, by corruption Sa
ragoffa. 'Tis now the fee of an archbiſhop, and
the feat of an univerfity, the tribunal of the
inquifition, and likewife the refidence of the
viceroy of Arragon. The ftreets are large and
well
through FRANCE.
293
well paved, the houſes for the moft part built of
brick, four ſtories high, more beautiful and uni-
form than thofe of Madrid. There are two fine
bridges over the Ebro, one of ftone, the other
of wood; the latter of which is faid to be one
of the moſt beautiful in Europe. As the Ebro
paffes through the middle of the town, there is
a handſome key on which the citizens uſually
walk. There are a great many public walks, but
the fineſt is that called the Holy Street, where
people of faſhion take the air every evening in
their coaches, drawn by mules. It is called the
Holy Street, becauſe a great number of Chriſtians
are faid to have fuffered martyrdom here under
its Pagan governours. There are a great many
public fquares, but no fountains in the ftreets,
thefe being fupplied with water from the Ebro.
This river, though it be as large as the Seine at
Paris, is not navigable here, becaufe of the dan-
gerous rocks, which lie in the channel, The
cathedral is a vaſt Gothic ftructure, that contains
nothing remarkable. The church of our Lady
of the Pillar is much frequented by pilgrims,
who have a magnificent hofpital for their enter-
tainment. The above church is fo called from a
fine jafper pillar, whereon the bleffed Virgin is
faid to have appeared to S. James, while he was
endeavouring the converfion of the Spaniards.
They fhew both the pillar and the image which
fhe is faid to have left of herfelf, in this church,
which they pretend, is the first that was built in
the world to the honour of our Saviour. There
is nothing extraordinary in the deſign of the ar-
chitecture of the church, but the chapel of the
Virgin is much admired. Among the convents
of Saragoffa, which are very numerous, that of
S. Francis is reckoned the fineſt ; the church par-
ticularly is much admired, the roof having not
O 3
one
294
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
one fingle pillar to fupport it, though it be of
great length and breadth. The town-houfe is a
fumptuous building, as alfo that where the ſtates
of the province affemble; in the hall you may
fee all the bufts of the kings of Arragon, as large
as the life. In the abovementioned Holy Street
are ſeveral handſome palaces of the nobility, par-
ticularly that of the viceroy. Next to Salamanca
and Alcala, the univerfity of this city is eſteemed
the beſt in Spain. The air is not fo hot here as
in many other Spanish towns, which is the reaſon
of its being inhabited by a numerous nobility.
The neighbouring country is full of fine gardens
and orchards, and for nine miles about the town,
the houſes ſtand fo thick, that it looks like one
continued village.
IV. CALAT A J U D.
Calatajud. Calatajud is a city of Arragon in Spain, in
weft longitude 2. 5. latitude 41. 15. This city
was built and named by the Moors, out of the
ruins of Bilbilis, the birth-place of Martial the
pcet. It is a large handfome city fituate at the
confluence of the rivers Xalon and Xaloca, at
the end of a fruitful plain, and at the foot of a
mountain. 'Tis now a bishop's fee; and is de-
fended by a strong caſtle, on a rock of difficult
acceſs. There are many ruins of Roman antiquities
and ancient coins found in the neighbourhood.
Guadalaxara
V. GUADA LAX AR a.
Guadalaxara is a city of Spain, in the pro-
vince of New Caftile, in weft longitude 3. 50.
latitude 40. 40. It is fituated on an uneven rifing
ground, upon the river Henares. The houſes
are generally lofty, and accommodated with fine
gardens.
through FRANCÉ.
295
gardens. The town is but fmall, containing
about a thouſand families, feven or eight mona-
fteries, and as many nunneries; but the pleaſant-
nefs of its fituation invites a great many people
of diftinction to refide there. The foil of the ad-
jacent country is remarkable for its fertility, pro-
ducing corn, wine, oil, flax, and hemp, and
here they make goats milk, much efteemed by
the Spaniards. The neighbouring mountains are
covered with oaks, of which they make charcoal,
and fupply all the country with that kind of
fuel.
VI. ALCALA.
Alcala, commonly called Alcala de Henares, to Alala.
diſtinguiſh it from another of the fame name in
Andalusia, is a town of Spain, in the province.
of New Caſtile, in weft longitude 4. latitude 40.
45. This city, anciently called Complutum, is
fituate in a large plain on the river Henares. Its
form is oval, the ftreets ftraight and handfome,
particularly there is one ftreet that runs the whole
length of the town. The houſes are tolerably
well built; and there are fome fquares, the largeſt
of which is furrounded by a pazza, filled with
tradefmen's fhops. It was formerly a bishop's
fee, but is united at prefent to that of Toledo.
The great church is a large and beautiful fabric,
in which they pretend to have a ſtone that ſup-
plied them miraculously with oil for their lamps,
but loft its virtue when the oil was applied to
profane uſes. The town has a flouriſhing trade,
and abounds with provifions of all forts. But
this city is famous chiefly for the univerfity found-
ed here by Cardinal Ximenes in 1517, which is
now the ſecond in the kingdom. It confifts of
twenty colleges, and is eminent for divinity and
philofophy,
0 4
!
296
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
philofophy, as that of Salamanca for law. The
famous Polyglot bible was printed here at the
charge of the faid cardinal, whofe noble monu-
ments of white marble, in the chapel of the uni-
verſity, deſerves a traveller's notice.
Bourges
CHAP. VII.
Journey from Paris to Bourges.
HERE are two roads from Paris to Bour-
THE
ges, one by Orleans, and the other by La
Charité, a town in the way to Lyons. Thofe
that chuſe the firſt road muſt go to Orleans ac-
cording to the route given, chap. vi. p. 219,
and from thence, by the route given in the fanie
place, proceed to Remorentin, a little town in the
way to Limoges, and from Romorentin, 'tis but a
fhort cut to Bourges. Thofe that prefer the ſe-
cond road must go to La Charité in the way to
Lyons, purſuant to the route given, p. 114, and
when they come to La Charité, they muft turn
off to the right hand by the following route.
La Charité
Charentonay
Baugis
Nohant
BOURGES
Pofts.
11
1/1/2
I
बोल बाल
Bourges is the capital of the territory of Berry,
in the Orleanois, in eaft longitude 2. 30. latitude
47. 10. fituate fifty miles fouth-west of Orleans,
and about an hundred and five fouth of Paris.
It is a large elegant city, the fee of an arch-
biſhop, and an univerfity, which is not much
frequented.
.through FRANCE.
297
frequented. The town is pretty full of gentry
and ecclefiaftics, but has very little trade. The
buildings in general are handfome, but none of
them contain any thing remarkable. There are
a great many churches and convents of both fexes.
It was in this city Charles VII. of France refided,
when the English being mafters of the reft of
the kingdom, he was in derifion called king of
Berry.
$
F
CHA P. IX.
Journey from Paris to Rochelle.
ROM Paris you travel to Rochelle by the
way of Orleans and Poitiers; the route
from Paris to Orleans and Poitiers, you will find
p. 219; fo that we have only to give here the
route from Poitiers to Rochelle. There is a ftage-
coach that fets out from Paris to Rochelle and
Rochefort, from the Rue Contrefcrape, every Fri-
day at eight in the morning. You pay fifty
livres for your place, and five fous per pound for
baggage, and are generally nine days upon the
road. The poft route from Poitiers to Rochelle is
as follows.
POITIERS
Vieille Fontaine
Colombieres
LUSIGNAN
Ville Dieu
La Mothe
Pofts.
I
I
I
1플
​P]=
I
SAINT MAIXANT
Ville-Dieu du Pont de Vaux
NIORT
0.5
I
11/1
Fontenay
298
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Fontenay la Battu
Mozai
Curfon
Nouaillé
Dampiere
ROCHELLE
I
I
I
I
I
Eufignan.
Remarkable places in this journey.
Leaving Poitiers, the first place you come to
is Lufignan, a town of France, in the province
of Poitou, under the meridian of London, lati-
tude 46. 30. It is fituate on the little river
Vienne, and was famous in former times for its
caftle, which was reckoned one of the ftrongeft
in France, built by the celebrated Mellufine, a
lady of this country, who was looked upon by
the vulgar as a fairy, and of whom they ſtill
relate a great number of filly ftories. The an-
cient lords of this caftle, were kings of Cyprus
S. Maikent, and Jerufalem. From Lufignan you proceed to
S. Maixant, a ſmall town of Poitou, which took
its name from an ancient hermit' who lived in
the time of Clovis. Thus from an inconfiderable
hermitage it became a handfome town. The
hermitage has been changed into an abbey of the
order of S. Benedict. The town is agreeably fi-
tuate on the river Seure, and is pretty well built.
Here they have a confiderable manufacture of
fine férges; and in the diftrict they drive a good
trade in corn and cattle, which they fell to the
merchants of Auvergne, Lyons, Piedmont, and
Savoy.
I. NIORT.
1
299
through FRANCE.
I. NIOR T.
Niort is a town of France, in the province of Niort.`
Orleanois, and territory of Poitou, in weft lon-
It is fituate on
gitude 30 min. latitude 46. 22.
the banks of the river Seure, which is navigable
from hence to the fea. In the ſuburb they have
a quay, where ſmall veffels come to unload their
cargoes, confifting chiefly of ſpices, falt and fiſh.
The town in general is well built; in the high
ſtreet, you ſee the town-houſe, adorned with a
very large clock. The other principal things
worth notice, are the church of our Lady, fa-
mous for its high fteeple, and the ftrong caftle
flanked with four large towers. The market-
place is one of the largest in France. The town
has a confiderable manufacture of woolen ftuffs,
and fhammy leather.
II. ROCHELLE.
Rochelle is a city and port town of France, in Rochelle,
the province of Orleanois, and territory of Aunis,
in weft longitude 1. 5. latitude 46. 7. It is fi-
tuate on the Bay of Biscay, fix miles fouth-eaſt
of the ifle of Re, and twelve north-eaſt of Ole-
ron, in the middle of a morafs, which adds to
the ftrength of the fortifications made here by
the famous engineer Vauban. The town is of a
fquare figure, and about three miles in circum-
ference. Moſt of the streets are drawn in a
direct line, and the houſes adorned with porti-
COS. It is at preſent a bishop's fee, fuffragan
of Bourdeaux. The cathedral dedicated to the
bleffed Virgin, is an old ftructure, that contains
nothing remarkable, no more than the other
churches and convents, of which there are a
0 6
pretty
300
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
pretty large number. The Jefuits college muſt be
excepted, which is a very handſome building. The
pleaſanteſt part of the town is the Rue du Temple.
The town-houſe ftands in the Rue faint Yon, but
contains nothing worth notice. The Palais or
court of juſtice, in the Rue de Confeil, is a hand-
fome building, as alfo the church of S. Lewis,
which is in the great fquare of the caftle. There
is a prefidial in the town, and a fovereign court
for the falt-houſes of the weft. The harbour is
bordered round with a large quay built of free ftone,
in which the tide rifes four fathoms, fo as to ad-
mit of veffels of 200 tuns. They have feveral
manufactures in the town, the principal of which
are the refining and baking of fugar, and the
diftilling of brandy and ftrong waters. But no-
thing turns ſo much to their account as their falt,
which is made by the fea-water, evaporated by
the fun, and brings in a good revenue to the pro-
prietors of the falt marshes, but a much greater
to the crown. The foreign trade of Rochelle is
very confiderable; for they fend every year great
numbers of fhips loaden with wine and brandy,
falt, paper, linen, ftuffs, ferges, and other
woolen manufactures, to feveral parts of Europe,
but eſpecially to the northern kingdoms. To
the American iflands they fend almoft all the ne-
ceffaries of life, and in return bring back fugars,
indigo, tobacco, fkins, brazil, campechy-wood,
and other leffer articles; and they receive
from the fide of Domingo cochineal, quinquina,
cocoa nuts, pearls, and emeralds. Their colonies
in North America furnish them with dried cod,
ftock-fifh, falmon, falted eels, fifh-oil, hides,
mafts, yards, and other naval ftores. The city
of Rochelle is famous for the fiege its Proteftant
inhabitants ſtood out againſt Lewis XIII. when
3
upon
through FRANCE.
301
7.
upon the miscarriage of the duke of Buckingham,
who was fent by Charles I. with a great fleet
and army to relieve them, they were obliged at
length to furrender upon articles, on the eighth
of October, 1628. At low water you may ſee
the remains of the famous digue made by Car-
dinal Richlieu, which hindred the English from
throwing fuccours into the town. From Rochelle
there is a ſtage-coach that fets out for Paris,
every Thurſday at fix in the morning, from the
canton des Flamans, near the new gate. You
pay fifty livres for your place, and five fous per
pound for baggage; the coach is nine days upon
the road.
III. By-places in this journey.
Eighteen miles to the right of Rochelle, as you Luton)
come from Paris, ſtands the town of Lucon'´ in
the territory of Poitou, in weft longitude 1. 6.
latitude 46. 25. It is fituated between a large
morafs and the fea, from whence it is only fix
miles diftant. The town is fmall, and indiffe-
rently built, though a bishop's fee, who is tem-
poral lord of the place. The cathedral dedi-
cated to the bleffed Virgin, is a handfome ftruc-
ture. Cardinal Richlieu was biſhop of this town,
before his elevation to the purple.
Eighteen miles to the left of Rochelle, as you Rochfort.
come from Paris, ftands Rochefort, a port town
of France, in the province of Guienne, and ter-
ritory of Saintonge, in weft longitude 1. latitude
46. It is a fine large town, fituate on the river
Charente, about five miles from its mouth. Be-
fore the year 1664 it was but an inconfiderable
village; but Lewis XIV. upon difcovering that
there was depth fufficient in the Charente for the
largeft veffels, and that a good harbour, which
was
302
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Sainter.
Regan.
was very much wanted for the royal navy, might
be made at the mouth of that river, ordered a
town to be built of the bignefs of Bourdeaux, and
furrounded with a wall, and other modern for-
tifications. Here he erected an arſenal and ma-
gazines, and gave all manner of encouragement
to his fubjects to build and fettle; fo that 'tis
now one of the fineft towns, and the beft provid-
ed to accommodate the royal navy of any upon
the coaft, except Brest and Port Lewis. The
entrance of the river and the port is defended by
feveral forts, that render it inacceffible to an ene-
my by fea. The principal places worth feeing
are, the royal dock, the magazines, the foundery,
the arfenal, the manufacture of fail cloth, the
hofpital for difabled feamen, the intendant's houſe,
the fquare of the Capuchins, and the beautiful
Hotel des Cazernes, where three hundred fea-of-
ficers are maintained and inftructed at the king's
expence. The air of this town is reckoned un-
healthful in August, September, and October,
which is fuppofed to proceed from the badnefs of
the water, and from the town's being covered by
the hills from the north wind.
From Rochefort you may go to Bourdeaux, by
the way of Saintes, Royan, and Blaye. From
Rochefort to Saintes is about twenty miles.
Saintes is the capital of the territory of Saintonges,
in the province of Guienne, in weft longitude 36
min. latitude 45. 50. It is fituate on the river
Charente, and the fee of a biſhop. For a further
deſcription of this town, fee p. 255.
From Saintes you proceed to Royan, a large
borough of Poitou, fituate upon a bay, at the
mouth of the Garonne. It is famous for its ftrong
caſtle, at the end of the peninſula, on which the
borough is fituated. Its harbour is almoſt choaked
up
through FRANCE.
303
up with fand, which render it acceffible only to
fmall boats. The river is here about nine miles
broad, and the diſtance between this place and
Bourdeaux, which is about fixty miles, forms the
ſeparation of Saintonges, from the country of
Medoc and that of Grave, where grow the wines
of Grave, fo much efteemed in the northern parts
of Europe. On the other fide of the Garonne,
on a little rocky ifle, ftands the famous light-houfe
of Courdouan, built by Peter de Montereau, S.
Lewis's architect, to direct veffels that are com-
ing into the river by night. From Royan you Blayti
proceed to the town of Blaye, which we have
defcribed already, p. 256; and from thence you
go by water to Bourdeaux.
CHA P. X.
Journey from Paris to Tours, Nants,
and Breft.
T
HE road from Paris to Breft is by Angers;
but there are two ways to Angers, one by
Amboife, Tours, and Saumur; the other by
Rambouillet, Chartres, and La Fleche. The be-
ginning of the route by Tours and Saumur is the
fame as that from Paris to Bourdeaux, till you
come to Blois, which route you may fee, p. 219.
At Blois, you leave the road to Bourdeaux on
your left, and proceed by the following route.
Route
་
304
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Route from Paris to Breft, by Tours and
Saumur.
BLOIS
Pofts
Chouzy
1
Veuve
Haut Chantier
I
AMBOISE
I
Luffaut
I
Mont Louis
I
TOURS
1 /1/
Luynes
1½
Pille S. Mare
I
Langets
I
Trois Volets
1 ½
Choufé
1
S. Catharine de l'Iɲle Auger x
SAUMUR
S. Martin de la Place
Bofiers
S. Mathurin
La Gaguenieres
ANGERS
La Roche au Breuil
S. George fur Loire
Chantocé
Varade
ANCENIS
Oudon
Mauves
NANTES
I
I
I
3
I
I
I
I
I
11
I
I
I
Pont Chateau
Roche-Bernard
I
I
VANNES
I
Baud
I
HENNEBOND
I
Quimperlai
through FRANCE.
305
Quimperlai
- Rofperdan
QUIMPER
Chateualin
Faou
BREST
I
I
I
I
I
Route from Paris to Breft by Ramboullet,
Chartres, and la Fleche.
PARIS
Pofts.
VERSAILLES
Two poſts royal.
Trapes
I
Connieres
RAMBOUILLET
MAINTENON
CHARTRES
Courville
La Loupe
NOGENT LE ROTROU
LA FERTE BERNARD
2
HANN - 2
I
1½
Connaré
S. Marc
MANS
22
2
2
I
11
Gueffelard
Foulletourte
LA FLECHE
Bourgneuf
ANGERS
2 2 2 2 2
2/12/13
21/
The remainder as in the preceding route.
Remarkable
306
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Remarkable places in the first route.
We have already deſcribed the places in this
route as far as Amboife, in our journey to Spain,
p. 228. Leaving Amboife, whoſe deſcription you
may fee, p. 255, you meet with nothing worth
notice till you come to
I. TOURS.
Tours. Tours is a city of France, in the province of
Orleanois, and capital of Tourraine, in eaft lon-
gitude 45 min. latitude 47. 25. It is a large
handſome town, fituate in a plain, on the fouth
fide of the Loire, between this river and the
Cher. The town is very long ftretching along
the Loire, with two principal streets of equal
length. Moſt of the houfes are built of fine
white ftone; the ftreets are fpacious and vaftly
clean, which is owing to the feveral rivulets that
form fix publick fountains. The fortifications
round the town take in a vaft compafs, including
the ſuburbs, but are not very regular. The caftle
confits of feveral round towers, fituate at the
extremity of the bridge over the Loire. This
bridge has nineteen arches, and is carried through
feveral little iſlands, inhabited by the principal mer-
chants. Tours is the fee of an archbiſhop, as well
as the capital of a dutchy, and has been often
honoured with the affembly of the ſtates of the
kingdom. The cathedral dedicated to S. Gatien,
is the largeſt in the kingdom, and remarkable for
a beautiful chapel of our Lady, and a very curi-
ous clock. The next church in rank is that of
S. Martin, which has a very high fteeple. There
are a great many handſome convents in the town,
the
through FRANCE.
307
the principal of which are, the Jefuits near S.
Saturnin, the Dominicans behind the church of
S. Peter, the Cordeliers in the Rue S. Catherine,
the abbey of S. Martin oppofite the great fquare
of Haumont, and the abbey of Marmoutiers in the
fuburb of S. Simphorian. There is also a royal
palace in this town, built by Lewis XI. with a
handſome park and gardens. The key upon the
river, is the most beautiful part of the town; and
their mali near the gate of S. Stephen, is efteemed
one of the fineſt in France, being a thouſand paces
long In the fuburb of S. Peter du Corps, Charles
Martel is faid to have obtained a complete victo-
ry over the Saracens, whofe general Aderance
was flain. One of the gates of Tours goes by
the name of Hugon, from an earl of Tours of
that name, a very wicked prince, whom the
fuperftitious vulgar imagined to walk the ſtreets
by midnight to terrify the inhabitants; from
whence the French Proteftants were first called
Hugonots, becauſe of their midnight affemblies.
The conveniency of the Loire renders Tours a
trading town, eſpecially in filk ftuffs, of which
they have an excellent manufacture. Not far
from Tours is the village of Langes, famous for
its mellons. Leaving Tours, you go through
Luynes, a fmall town, erected into a dutchy
and peerage in 1619, by Lewis XIII, in favour
of the conſtable de Luynes.
II. SA UM U R.
Saumur is a city of France, in the province of Saumur,
Orleanois, and dutchy of Anjou, under the meridian
of London, latitude 47. 17. This town was an-
ciently called Salons Murus, deriving the name of
Murus from a wall under which it is built. It is
agreeably
308
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Angers,
agreeably fituated on the river Loire, over which
it has two handſome bridges. The fuburbs are
larger than the town; that of our Lady of Ar-
deliers is a large ftreet along the river, at the end
of which there is a church of the fame name,
much frequented by pilgrims, and adorned with
handſome pictures and filver lamps. This church
is ferved by the fathers of the oratory, whofe
houſe was built by Cardinal Richlieu. The fub-
urb of Blanche, has a large fquare, all furround-
ed with public inns near the river. The caftle on
the top of a rock, confifts of feveral round towers
of free-ftone, in the middle of which there is at
handfome apartment for the governor. The moſt
ufual walk of the inhabitants is along a bridge
that traverſes the little iflands, from whence there
is a beautiful profpect of the Loire. Saumur was
one of the cautionary towns given to the Pro-
teſtants, where they had a good academy; but
upon the revocation of the edict of Nantes in
1684, moſt of the inhabitants left the country.
There are ftill ſome manufactures in the town,
the principal of which are the refining of fugar,
and thoſe of hard-ware and toys.
III. ANGER S.
Angers is the capital of the province of Anjou,
in the general government of Orleanois, in weſt
longitude 30 min. latitude 47. 30. This is one
of the largeſt and handſomeft cities in France,
pleaſantly ſituated at the confluence of the little
Loire, the Sart, and the Maine. Part of the
town ftands on the fide of a hill, and the reſt
in the plain watered by the Maine, which divides
Angers into two parts. That on the fide of a
hill is the largeft, and communicates with the other
by
through FRANCE.
309
by a very large bridge. The whole town is fur-
rounded by a wall and antique fortifications, and
commanded by a caſtle, fituate on a ſteep rock.
The number of houſes in the town are faid to be
nine hundred, which contain thirty-fix thouſand
inhabitants, divided into fixteen parishes, twelve
within the walls, and four in the fuburbs. The
city is a bishop's fee, fuffragan of Tours. The
cathedral, dedicated to S. Maurice, is a noble
ſtructure, remarkable for one of the fineſt ſteeples
in France, which is fupported by the foundation
of two other ſteeples, one each fide, and feems
fufpended in the air. The roof of the church is
high and broad, and yet has never a pillar to fuf-
tain it. There are feveral other handſome churches
in Angers, the chief of which are thofe of the three
rich abbeys of S. Aubin, S. Nicholas, and S. Serge ;
the church of S. Julian, thoſe of the Cordeliers,
the fathers of the oratory, the Capuchins, the
Minims, &c. The annual proceffion of the fa-
crament in this city, is faid to be a very fine
fight. There are feveral handſome ſquares in the
town, the principal of which are, that near the
church of S. Michael, that where the palace of
the prefidial is fituated, and the great ſquare near
the church of S. Nicholas, which ferves for a
market-place. The town-houfe in the ftreet of
S. Michael, is one of the handſomeſt buildings in
the kingdom, being the work of Peter Poyet,
mayor of Angers. It is fituated on a ſmall emi-
nence, which commands on one fide of the town,
and the other a moſt beautiful country. In the
garden belonging to this building there is a ftatue
of Lewis XIV. erected by the town in 1685.
There is a very good univerfity in Angers, eſta-
blifhed by Lewis II. duke of Anjou in 1398, and
frequented chiefly for the ftudy of law. They
have
310
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
i
:
Ancenis.
Nants.
have likewiſe an academy eſtabliſhed here in 1685,
by Lewis XIV. upon the fame foot with that of the
royalacademy at Paris. The fathers of the ora-
tory have alfo a college here, in which they inftruct
their pupils in philofophy and divinity. In the fub-
urb of Brefigny, you may fee the famous quarries of
Angers, by which they are ſupplied with thoſe
excellent flates that cover their houſes, and from
whence Angers has the name of the Black Town.
Between Angers and Nants, you paſs through
Ancenis, a little town of the province of Bretany,
fituate on the frontiers of Anjou. The town is
prettily built, well peopled, and remarkable for
the wholeſomeneſs of its air, and the fertility of
the neighbouring ſoil.
IV. NANT S.
Nants is a city of France, in the province of
Britany, in weft longitude 1. 30. latitude 47.
15. This is a large populous town, fituated on
the Loire, about thirty miles to the eastward of
the ocean. It is furrounded by a wall, and other
fortifications, and defended by a caftle, which
ſtand on the bank of the river, and is flanked
with ſeveral round towers. Along the river fide
there is a fine key, on which ftand the merchants
houſes. Over the river there is a handſome ſtone-
bridge, from whence there is a charming pro-
fpect. The fuburbs are much larger than the
town; thoſe of the market, and the ditch, are
the moſt confiderable, and inhabited chiefly by
wealthy merchants. This city was formerly the
refidence of the dukes of Britany, who built here
the abovementioned caftle; and 'tis now the fee
of a biſhop, fuffragan of Tours. The cathedral
dedicated to S. Peter is a fine Gothic ftructure,
remarkable for the tombs of feveral of the anci-
ent
1
3
through FRANCE.
311
ent dukes of Britany. There are feveral other
churches and religious houfes worth notice,
among which that of the Carmelites is famous
for the magnificent tomb of Francis II. the laft
duke of Britany. The other principal buildings
are, the Jefuits college, the epifcopal palace, and
the town-houſe. This city has as great a foreign
trade as any other in the kingdom, though ſhips
of burden cannot come fo high up the river be-
cauſe of the fands, but are obliged to unload their
merchandize into hoys and lighters at Port-
Launai, fifteen miles off, near the mouth of
the river. The principal trade of the merchants
of Nants is to America and the Weft-Indies,
whither they ſend annually about fifty fail, from
fixty to three hundred tun, loaden with all man-
ner of provifions and neceffaries for the planta-
tions, and make their returns in fugar, cocoa,
ginger, cotton, wool, indigo, hides, tortoife-
fhells, &c. In their fiſhery at Newfoundland and
Cape Breton, they employ thirty fail of fhips,
moft of which make two voyages every year,
Nants being the ftaple of cod-fifh caught on that
coaft. They have alfo a good 'foreign trade to
Spain and Portugal, in fmall barks loaden with
paper, linen, filk, ftuffs, gold and filver lace,
fugar, iron wares, and mercery; for which they
bring back in return, iron, wool, fheeps fkins,
oranges, citrons, and a great deal of fpecie.
With the northern kingdoms and Holland, they
drive a vaſt trade in wine, brandy, paper, prunes,
and falt; for which they receive fpices, ftárch,
lead, copper, tobacco, pipe-ftaves, timber, deal-
boards, mafts, pitch, tar, cordage, hemp, wire,
Ruffia-leather, tallow, oil, whalebone, and a
great deal of iron or hard-ware. To England
they export the fame goods as to the north, and
receive in return, lead, tin, copperas, fea-coal,
and
312.
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Route from
Nants to
Breft, by the
way of Ren-
and a confiderable difference in treaſure. The
country round about Nants, feeds great herds of
cattle of which they make a confiderable advan-
tage. Near the city is a famous hermitage, fi-
tuated on a rock, from whence there is a fine
proſpect of the town, the Loire, and the adja-
cent country. This town is likewife famous for
the edict in favour of the proteftants, which was
granted here by Henry IV. in 1598, and revoked
by Lewis XIV. in 1685, upon which followed
the perfecution of thoſe unhappy people.
Thoſe who have a mind to make Rennes, the
capital of Britany, their way to Brest, must take
the following route. From Nants to Curet, two
pofts: From Curet to Pavillon, poft: From Pa-
villon to Nofay, poft and a half: From Nofay to
Derval, poft and a half: From Derval to Bre-
harage, poft: From Breharage to Roudun, poſt
and a half: From Roudun to Bout de Landes,
poft: From Bout de Landes to Rennes, poft and
half: From Rennes to Paffé, poft and a half:
From Paſſe to Bedeé, poft and a half: From Be-
dée to Montauban, poft: From Montauban to S.
Jouan, poft: From S. Jouan to Broon, poſt:
From Broou to Langovedre, poft: From Lango-
vedre to Lambale, poft and a half: From Lambale
to Etangles, poft: FromEtangles to S. Brieux, poft:
From S. Brieux to Chateaulandrin, two pofts:
From Chateaulandrin to Guimgamp, poft and a half:
From Guingamp to Goifmorant, poft: From Goif-
morant to Bellifle, poft: From Bellifle to Pontir,
poft: From Pontir to Pontou, poft: From Pontou
to Morlaix, two pofts: From Morlaix to S.
Egonic, poft: From S. Egonic to Landiviſian, poſt
and a half: From Landivifian to Guipava poft :
Rennes, From Guipava to Breft, poft. The firft remarkable
place in this route, is the city of Rennes, capital
of
through FRANCE.
313
of the province of Britany, of which we propoſe
to give a deſcription in the next chapter. The
fecond is S. Brieux, a port town of Britany in S. Brieuxą]
France, fituate on the English Channel, in weft
longitude 2. 50. latitude 48. 40. This town
has neither wall nor ditch, and yet is the fee of a
biſhop, who is both ſpiritual and temporal lord of
the place. It ſtands in a bottom, ſurrounded
with mountains out of fight of the fea, though
within a mile and a half of it. The houſes are
pretty well built, the ftreets regular, and the
churches and fquares make a handfome appear-
ance.-The third remarkable place is Morlaix, a Morlaix,
port town of France, in the province of Britany,
fituate on a bay of the English Channel, in weſt
longitude 4. latitude 48. 37. It ſtands on a little
river, to which it gives its name, and will admit
only of ſmall veffels. The road at the mouth
of the river is much frequented, having verý
good anchorage.
But to return to our direct route from Nants Direct route
to Brest, leaving the former city, you come to from Nantz
La Roche-Bernard, a large borough and harbour, to Breft.
with the title of Barony, fituate on the Villaine,
about twelve miles from the mouth of that river,
From thence you proceed to
V. VANNES.
Vannes is a city of France, in the province of Vannis,
Britany, in weft longitude 2. 37. latitude 47.
40. This is looked upon as one of the moſt an-
cient towns of the province, and is ftill a biſhop's
fee, fuffragan of Tours. It is fituate about fix
miles from the fea, and watered by two little ri-
vers, which unite their ftreams, and form a pretty
harbour, capable of admitting veffels of 200 tuns.
VOL. IV.
P
The
314
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Hennebon.
Port Louis.
The key is built of free-ftone, as alfo the mole,
which advances into the middle of a ſmall mo-
rafs, round which there are feveral handfome
houfes, belonging to wealthy merchants. This
part is called the Market Suburb, and is much
larger than the town, from which it is feparated
by a ditch and walls, and is remarkable for a very
handſome mall. The town itſelf is populous,
but indifferently built, the streets being very nar-
row, except that which leads from the gate to-
wards the fea to the town-houſe. The cathedral
dedicated to S. Peter is an old ftructure, that
contains nothing remarkable. The other prin-
cipal buildings are, the grand hofpital, the Jefuits
college, the convents of the Capuchins, the Do-
minicans, and the Urfulines. The bishop is
temporal lord of part of the town.
From Vannes you proceed to Hennebon, a fmall
town of Britany, fituate on the river of Blavet,
fix miles from the fea, from whence the tide
flows high enough into the town, to admit of
veffels of 150 tun. It is divided into the new,
the old, and the walled town. The parochial
church is dedicated to our Lady, near which there
is a handfome fquare. The wall that feparates
the town from the river, is bordered with a large
key, built of free-ftone.
Three miles from Hennebon ftands Port Lewis,
a port town of France, in the province of Bri-
tany, in weft longitude 3. 6. latitude 47. 42. It
is fituate on the Bay of Biscay, at the mouth of
the river Blavet, and fometimes called by that
name. 'Tis defended by a very ſtrong caſtle,
built on rocks, which form a peninfula, entirely
occupied by the town, at the end of which there
is a large ditch, which is filled with water from
the fea. The harbour is very commodious, and
receivcs
through FRANCE.
315
receives the largeſt veffels, being a ſtation for the
royal navy, and for the fhips of the French Eaft-
India company.
VI. QUIMPER.
Quimper is a city of France, in the province of Quimper.
Britany, in weft longitude 4. latitude 48. This
city is the capital of a county to which the Bri-
tons, who tranfported themſelves from Great
Britain to Armorica, gave the name of Cornou-
aille or Cornwall, being the county from whence
they were ſuppoſed to come; and to this town
they gave the name of Quimper, which in the
British language fignifies a place furrounded with
walls. 'Tis fituated in a peninſula formed by
two ſmall rivers, which unite their ſtreams with-
out the town walls, and feparate it from the
ſuburbs. The town
The town is tolerably large, a place of
fome trade, and the fee of a bishop, fuffragan of
Tours. The Cathedral dedicated to the bleffed
Virgin is a noble ftructure, remarkable for the
chapel of our Lady, and feveral tombs. The
other principal buildings are, the epifcopal palace,
the Jefuits church and college, and the church
of the Cordeliers, where there are ſeveral tombs
of the dukes of Britany. The town ramparts
are very broad, and ferve for the citizens to walk
on, from whence they have a pleafant profpect.
No larger veffels than fixty tuns can come up
to the harbour, becauſe there is fcarce any tide,
and confequently the trade is but inconſiderable.
P 2
VII. BREST.
316
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
VII. BREST.
Breft: Breft is a fea port town of France, in the
province of Britany, in weft longitude 4. 30.
Îatitude 48. 25. The town is fituated on an
eminence, on the north fide of a fine bay, called
Breft or Cameret Bay.
and the houſes ill built.
The streets are narrow,
The harbour is the beſt
this nation has in the ocean, being able to contain
five hundred fail of fhips. Here the French lay
up one of their fquadrons of men of war, for
which the province of Britany is convenient in
another refpect, being full of woods, iron mines,
and other things neceffary for the conftruction of
veffels. Though they have generally a good
number of men of war at Brest, yet none are of
the firſt rate, the entrance of the harbour being
too fhallow and rocky to admit them; which is
however a ſecurity against an enemy's fleet. In
fact, their largeft fhips are always built and laid
up at Toulon. The town and the entrance of
the harbour are extremely well fortified, this be-
ing reckoned one of the principal keys of the
kingdom. Along the harbour they have built a
very fine quay, on which they have their maga-
zines. On the other fide of the harbour is the
beautiful church of our Lady of Recovery, in a
very large fuburb, where there is a ſtrong tower
oppofite the caftle that commands the entrance
of the port. The yards and magazines are vaſt-
ly confiderable, infomuch that the French are faid
to be able to fit out from hence feventy fail of
men of war.
Remarkable
through FRANCE.
317
Remarkable places in the fecond route.
Rambouilles.
Leaving Paris the firft place worth notice you.
come to is Verfailles, already defcribed, p. 92.
The next is Rambouillet, a borough of the pro-
vince of Beauffe, within twelve miles of Nogent
le Roy. It is remarkable for a very large cattle,
in which Francis I. died the 31ft of Moy, 1547,
and now belongs to the count of Toulouse, who
has repaired and embellifhed it, fo that it may
pafs for one of the finest buildings in the neigh-
bourhood of Paris. From Rambouillet you proceed Maintenon.
to Maintenon, alfo a borough in the province of
Beauffe, with a cafle fituate on the river Eure,
in a valley between two mountains.
borough is famous for an aqueduct, built here by
Lewis XIV. the uſe of which does not anſwer the
expence. There is a collegiate church in the
borough, dedicated to S. Nicholas, and two pa-
rifhes. The country round about Maintenon pro-
duces a great deal of corn. The next place to
Maintenon is
I. CHARTRES.
This
Chartres is the capital of the Chartrain or
Beauffe Proper, in the province of Orleanois in
France, in eaft longitude 1. 32. latitude 48. 27.
This is a large town, fituated on the river Eure,
which divides it into two parts, whereof the largeſt
ftands on an eminence. It is very well inhabited,
but not handfome, the ftreets being narrow,
and the buildings old. The inhabitants pretend
it was founded by a grandfon of Noah, foon af-
ter the flood, and have a tradition of its being
once poffeffed by the Druids, who built a temple,
P 3
and
Chartres.
*
318
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
and dedicated it Virgini parituræ, or to the Vir-
gin that was to bring forth a child, and fhew the
place where they fay it ftood, which is under
the cathedral. This city is now a bishop's fee,
the feat of a prefidial, a bailiwick, and an election.
The cathedral is one of the finest Gothic truc-
tures in France, remarkable for its two fteeples of
ftone, fo admirably well built, that the French
have a proverb which fays, If you have à mind
to have a complete church, you must take the
choir of Beauvais, the body of Amiens, the front
of Reims, the fpires of Paris, and the fteeples or
belfrey of Chartres. The myfteries of the life
of our Saviour are carved round the choir, which
by able fculptures are looked upon as a mafter-
piece. There are ten parishes in the city and
fuburbs, and a great many religious houſes.
Among other charitable foundations they have an
hoſpital here for a hundred and twenty blind peo
ple. There is a handfome quay along the river
Eure, and a pleafant walk, where you fee the
church of S. Julian, built on a vault over the
river. The neighbouring meadows watered by
this gentle ftream, are extremely agreeable, in
the midſt of which ftands the abbey of Jofaphat.
Nogent le
The next town to Chartres is Nogent le Ro-
Rotrou trou, capital of the dutchy of Perche, in the pro-
vince of Orleanois, in eaft longitude 3. 33. lati-
tude 48. 26. 'Tis a fmall, but rich and populous
town, fituated on the little river Huifne, and re-
markable for its manufactures of leather, linen,
and ferge. From thence you proceed to La
Ferté Bernard, a fmall town of the province of
Maine, near the frontiers of Perche, but con-
tains nothing remarkable. From thence you
La Ferté
Bernard
come to
II. MANS.
through FRANCE.
319
II. MAN s.
Mans is the capital of the dutchy of Maine, Man,
in the province of Orleanois in France, in eaft
longitude, 5 min. latitude 48. 6. It is fituate
on an eminence, at the foot of which runs the
river Sarte, which here unites its ftream with the
Huifne. Formerly it was much larger than it
is at prefent; though it is ſtill a confiderable city,
being a biſhop's fee, and containing about 15000
inhabitants. The four principal ftreets are to-
lerably handſome, but the rest are narrow and
crooked. In the city and its four ſuburbs, there
are fourteen pariſhes, four abbeys, four convents
of men, four of women, three collegiate churches,
moſt of which are worth a traveller's notice.
The cathedral dedicated to S. Julian, its firft
biſhop, is a fine old building, remarkable for its
choir, where are feveral confiderable tombs, and a
clock that paffes for a mafter-piece. The other
principal ftructures are, the epifcopal palace, the
tower of Orbitello, the palace of the prefidial, and
the town-houſe.
III. LA FLECHE.
La Fleche is a town of France, in the province La Fleche.
of Orleanois, and territory of Anjou, under the
meridian of London, latitude 47. 40. This is a
fmall but handſome city, pleaſantly ſituated in a
a beautiful plain on the little Loire. 'Tis the
feat of a prefidial and election, and contains fa
many beautiful buildings, that at a diflance it
feems a large town, fituate in the middle of a
great garden, embelliſhed with fountains, and
with a large canal, formed by the Loire, which
P 4
renders
X
320
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
renders it a proper manfion for the Mufes. The
whole town confifts only of one parifh, but has
fix thouſand inhabitants. The ftreets are large
and regular, and the houſes well built. The
great church dedicated to S. Thomas, is worth
feeing, as alſo the convents of the Recollects,
Capuchins, Carmelites, &c. Over the river
there is a fine ſtone bridge, which leads to the
fuburb of Beffrie, whereof the entrance is de-
fended by a ſmall caftle. The town-houſe, and
the palace of the prefidial are handfome buildings,
as alfo the palace of the marquis of Varenne, a-
dorned with a beautiful garden and fine water-
works. But the greatest curiofity of La Fleche,
is the famous college of Jefuits, built by Henry
IV. (who was very fond of this place) in 1603,
after the model of the palace of Efcurial in Spain.
In the middle of the college ftands their church,
which is built after the Italian tafte; and at the
fide of the great altar there is a monument, with
the above mentioned prince's ftatue, whofe heart
is buried in the chapel with that of Mary of
Medicis his queen. The governor's palace is fi-
tuated at the entrance of the high ſtreet, and is
a handfome ftructure, extremely well furniſhed.
The inhabitants of La Fleche, are particularly fo-
ciable and civil to ſtrangers, which occafions the
town to be much frequented. The men have a
good deal of ready wit, and the women a good
Thare of beauty. There are two pleaſant walks
for the people of the town, the mall which is
pretty large, and the Pré-Luneau, on the banks
of the Loire, where there are ſeveral ſmall iſlands,
with water-mills, which form a beautiful land-
fkip, becauſe of the great number of trees that
are planted round about.
CHAP.
through FRANCE.
3.21
CHA P. XI.
Journey from Paris to Rennes and
S. Malo.
PARIS
VERSAILLES
Pofts
Two poſts royal.
Neauphles
La Quene
HOUDAN
DREUX
Nonancourt
Verneuil
S. Maurice
Tourouvre 1
MORTAGNE
Mefle fur Sarte
Menile Brou
ALENÇON
Prez-en-paille
Ribay
MAYENNE
Martigny
LAVAL
La Gravelle
Vitré
Chateaubourg
RENNES
Lameziere
Hedé
S. Dominieu
S. Pierre de Pleguen
Chateauneuf
S. MALO
P 5
2
2
2
플
​2
I
I
I
I
I
[ell
(ત
I
I
22
me mjet
--- 2 2 2 2 2
2/2/2
플
​1
22
IZ
I.
I
I
1/1
Remarkable
32 2
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Remarkable places in this journey.
Leaving Paris you meet with no place worth
particular notice (except Verſailles already de-
Houdan. fcribed, p. 92.) till you come to Houdan, a fmall
town in the ifle of France, fituate on the Vegre,
Dreux, near the confines of Beauffe. From Houdan you
proceed to Dreux, a ſmall town of France, in the
province of Orleanois, and territory of Chartres,
in weft longitude 1. 25. latitude 48. 45. It is
fituate on the Blaife, and has a ruinous caſtle on
the declivity of a hill. The town is in general
well built, furrounded with old walls and deep
ditches. It has four gates and four fuburbs, with
feveral churches, and convents; a commandery
of Malt and an hofpital. The great fquare,
the bailiwic, and the town-houfe, are the places
moſt deſerving of a traveller's notice.-The next
Mortagne, remarkable place is Mortagne, a town of France,
in the province of Orleanois, and territory of
Perche, in eaft longitude 50 min. latitude 48.
40. It is fituate near a rivulet, which begins to
form the river Huifne, and is pretty large and
well peopled. The collegiate church is dedicated
to All Saints, and the parifh church to our
Lady. There are feveral other churches and
La Trappe, convents in the fuburbs. Not far from hence
ftands the famous abbey of La Trappe, of the
Ciftercian order, founded in 1140, by Rotrou
count of Perche; and reformed in the laft
century, by the. Abbé de Rancé. The ſeverity
of this reformation is very furprizing, for the
monks are obliged to perpetual filence, to live
upon vegetables, bread, and cyder, with feveral
other amazing practices of aufterity. Strangers
are received here with great civility, and enter-
tained
4
through FRANCE.
323
tained at the expence of the convent. Leaving
Mortagne in your way to Breff, the first re-
markable place you come to, is
I. ALENÇON.
Alençon is a city of Lower Normandy in France, Alençon.
under the meridian of London, latitude 48. 32.
It is fituate on the river Sarte, near the borders
of Perche, in a large fruitful plain. The walls
are flanked with antique towers, but neither they
nor the old caftle are capable of making any de
fence. Most of the streets are wide, and the
houſes well built. There is only one pariſh
church, dedicated to our Lady, in which you
may fee the tombs of the old dukes of Alençon..
The great gate of this church is an excellent
piece of workmanship; the body of the church
is alfo well built, but the choir is no way pro-
portioned to it. There are feveral monafteries
of both fexes in the town, and a handſome col-
lege of Jefuits.
From Alençon you proceed to Mayenne, a
finall city of France, in the province of Orleancis,
and territory of Maine, in weſt longitude 45
min. latitude 48. 20. It is fituate on an emi-
nence, at the bottom of which runs a river of
the fame name. There is only one large ftreet
in the town, and two parishes. Moft of the
other ftreets are fmall and narrow, and the
houſes but poorly built. They have a bridge
about twelve feet long, which joins the town to
to the ſuburb of S. Martin.
May:none.
Mont S.
Thofe who have a mind to fee Mount S.
Michael, in their way from Paris to Brest, muft Michael,
ftop at Mayenne, and turn off to the right by a
little cross-road, which carries them to the vil-
P 6.
lage
324
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Laval.
lage of S. James. From thence they proceed
to the village of Pontorfon, and from Pontorfon to
mount S. Michael. Mount S. Michael is a for-
treſs of France in the province of Normandy, in
weſt longitude 1. 32. latitude 48. 38. It is fi-
tuated on a rock 300 feet high, in a bay of the
fea, formed by the coafts of Normandy and Bri-
tany. It ftands about nine miles to the weftward
of Avranches, in the middle of a large ftrand of
fine fand, which is covered twice in four and
twenty hours at high water, and confequently
there is no coming at it by land but at low water.
The town of S. Michael is very well built, ftrong-
ly fortified, and contains about a hundred houfes.
To add to the ftrength of the place there is a
ftrong caftle, where the burghers mount guard
in time of peace, but the king fends them regu-
lar troops in time of war. Here is alſo a fa-
mous abbey of Benedictins, on the very top of
the rock, in the form of a crofs, founded in 966,
by Richard I. duke of Normandy. The mo-
naftery is a very handfome ftructure, where you
are to take particular notice of the great altar,
the church, the chapel of the trinity, the trea-
fure, and the machine for drawing up, from the
bottom of the rock, all forts of provifions that
come by fea. The prior of the abbey is gover-
nor of the place in time of peace, and keeps the
keys of the town and caſtle.
But continuing your journey directly to Breft,
you proceed from Mayenne to Laval, a town of
the province of Maine, and general government
of Orleanois in France, fituate on the river
Maine, forty-two miles from Rennes, Angers,
and La Fleche. It is furrounded by a wall, and
other antique fortifications of very little ſtrength.
There are two parochial churches in the town,
two
.
through FRANCE.
325
two collegiate ones, with feveral religious houſes,
among which that of the cordeliers is the hand-
fomeft. This town was taken by ſcalade in 1446,
by the famous Talbot, earl of Shrewsbury, the
English general. The inhabitants have a very
confiderable linnen manufacture. Leaving Laval,
you meet with nothing worth deſcription till you
come to
II. RENNE S.
Rennes is a city of Britany in France, in weft Renness
longitude 1. 45. latitude 48. 5. This is a very
ancient city, formerly the capital of Armorica, and
called by Cæfar, civitas Rhedonum. 'Tis now the
capital of the dutchy and province of Britany,
the fee of a bishop, and the feat of the parliament
of the province. It is fituated on the river Vi-
laine, by which it is divided into two parts,
upper and lower, that communicate by bridges.
The town is but of a ſmall circumference, not
above three quarters of an hour's walk, yet con-
tains a great number of people, the houfes being
generally very high. Not long ago it was almoſt
burnt down, fince which time it has been built to
an advantage, the streets being made much wider,
and the houſes better, fo that it paffes now
for one of the prettieft cities in France. The
cathedral dedicated to St. Peter is a large building,
with two very high fpires. The other churches
moft worthy of notice are, the church and abbey
of St. George, the church and abbey of St. Me-
leve, remarkable for its garden called Thabor; the
church of the Vifitation; the church and con-
vent of the Dominicans, and the fumptuous
church and college of Jefuits. The palace where
the parliament meets, has four large pavilions,
which
326
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
which include a great court furrounded with gal-
leries and fhops; the halls are fpacious, and the
chambers adorned with rich tapeſtry. The
great ftair-cafe of this building is reckoned a
mafter-piece of architecture: The fquare before
the palace is furrounded with handſome houſes,
and a convent of cordeliers. Befides the great
fquare, there is another called the Pompe, where
the houfes are fupported by portico's, and in the
middle of which there is a handfome fountain.
They have a tower in the town, which is faid to
have been formerly a heathen temple, and at
prefent fupports the town-clock, the bell of which.
is fix feet high, eight wide, and eight inches
thick. This tower is near the Champ Jacquier,
which is the great market-place, where ftands
the court of the prefidial, an old edifice, that was
formerly the governor's palace. The river Vi-
laine carries large boats, that come up with the
tide as far as port St. Ives, where it waters a
beautiful plain, and from whence it enters Rennes,
under three large bridges, the handſomeft of which
is the middle one called Pont Neuf. The mea-
dows and woods round this city, render the air
very moist, and occafion a great deal of fogs and
rain in the winter.
Between Rennes and St. Malo there is no re-
markable place in the rout given in the beginning
of this chapter; but thoſe who have no objection
againſt going a little way round about, may take
the road of Dinant, to which place they reckon
it three pofts from Rennes. From Dinant you
go to Chateauneuf, one poft; and from Chateau-
Dinant. neuf to St. Malo, another poft. Dinant is a
town of France in the province of Britany, in
weft longitude 2. 5. latitude 48. 30. It is a
very
through FRAN CE.
327
very ſtrong town, fituated on a mountain, ſteep
and almoft inacceffible on every fide, and has alfo
a very good wall, and caſtle. There are fome
handfome fquares in the town, the principal of
which are the great fquare, and that of the cor-
deliers; in the latter efpecially the houfes are
well built, and fupported by portico's. The pa-
Fochial church with its high fteeple, the con-
vent of the Dominicans, the great hofpital, the
town-houſe with its large clock, are the things
moſt worthy of a traveller's notice.
III. S. MAL O.
S. Malo is a city and port-town of France, in S. Milo,
the province of Britany, in west longitude 2.
latitude 48. 40. This town is not above five
hundred years old, and is now the fee of a bifhop,
fuffragan of Tours, and one of the principal keys
of the province. It is fituated on a rock called
S. Aaron, furrounded by the ocean, but joined to
the continent by a long caufeway, the entrance
of which is defended by a ftrong caftle. The
town is extremely well fortified, eſpecially that
part contiguous to the cauſeway. The garrifon
turn twelve large dogs out of the gates every
night to prevent a furprize, in imitation of the
ancients. The cathedral dedicated to S. Vincent,
ftands in a fquare of this name, where are like-
wife the epifcopal palace, and the town-houſe.
The high street that croffes the fquare of Cohue,
has fone handfome houſes inhabited by wealthy
merchants. Most of the other streets are narrow,
and the houfes ugly, belonging chiefly to people
who live in time of war by privateering, or com-
mon mariners. The harbour is one of the beſt
on the coaft, but of difficult accefs, and will not
admit
328
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Į
:
admit of large veffels. The arfenal and the pow
der magazines, are worth feeing, near which is
the platform of S. Saviour, planted with cannon,
from whence you may go to the platform of
S. Francis, at the mouth of the harbour, where
you have a pleaſant profpect of the veſſels coming
in and going out. The privateers of this town
have been extremely troubleſome to our mer-
chant-men in time of war, which occafioned our
bombarding the town under Lewis XIV. though
with very little damage, the flats and fands.keep-
ing the fleet at too great a diſtance.
CHA P. XII.
Journey from Paris to Cherbourg, by
Roan and Caen.
F
ROM Paris to Roan there are two diffe-
rent poſt-roads, one by Pontoife, and the
other by Mante. There is alfo a ftage-coach
from Paris to Roan, and from Roan to Paris;
each paffenger pays for his place twelve livres.
Thoſe who chufe a cheaper way, may go with
the coach to the little town of Poily, for ten
fous, then from Poify you go by water to the
village of Roboife, which is 27 miles diftant, for
ten fous: From Roboife to the village of Bonnie-
res, you have three miles to walk, or you may
ride it for fix fous: From Bonnieres to the village
of Roule, you have fifteen miles, which coft you
ten fous: From Roule to port S. Ouen, which is
fifteen miles, you have horfes, fuch as they
are, for 30 fous; and from port S. Ouen to
Roan you go by water for three fous.
But
this
through FRANCE.
329
this is wretched and difagreeable travelling, re-
commendable only to thofe whofe circumſtances
will not permit them to travel in a more conve-
nient manner.
Route from Paris to Roan by Pontoife, and
from Roan to Cherbourg.
PARIS
S. DENNIS
Franconville
PONTOISE
Bordeau de Vigny
MAGNI
S. Clair
Thilliers
Efcouy
Bourbaudoin
La Forge Foret
ROAN
Moulineaux
Bourgachard
Pofts
Poft Royal
I
I
2
1 1/2
I
I
2
1 44
·
I
I
Rougemontier
Ponteau de Mer
Pont l'Eveque
I
I
3
Dives
CAEN
BAYEUX
2
3
3
Jigny
CARENTAN
VALOGNE
CHERBOURG
13 12/1
I
3
2
[
mircmmMA MN
Rout
330
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Route from Paris to Roan by Mante.
PARIS
S. GERMAINS
Trielle
Meulan
Pofts
2
1 /1/
1
MANTE
Bonnieres
Vernon
Gaillon
I
1 /
-la-la mia -~
1
Pontoife.
Vaudreuil
Port. S. Quen
ROAN
}
2
1
2
I
Remarkable Places in the first Route.
Leaving Paris you come to the town of S.
Dennis, of which we have already given a de-
ſcription in this volume, p. 50. From S. Dennis
you proceed to Pontoife, and when you come to
Franconville you defcend a high hill, and fall af-
terwards into a caufey that goes to Pontoife.
Near Franconville ftands the famous nunnery of
Maubuifon, the abbeffes of which are always
princeflès. Pontoife is a town of the ifle of
France, in caft longitude 2.6. latitude 49. 5.
It is fituated on the river Oyfe, upon the de-
ſcent of a hill, which extends to the banks of
the river. The town is commanded by a caſtle,
in the outer court of which there is a collegiate
church. Over the Oyfe there is a bridge of four-
teen arches, from whence it takes its name of
Pons ad Efiam. It confifts only of two parishes,
but has feveral religious houfes, as the Cordeliers,
the Carmelites, the Urfelines, and the abbey of
S. Martin; which laft, as alfo the palace called
the
through FRANCE.
331
From Pontoife
the Vicariat, are worth feeing. The principal
trade of the town is in corn, which is brought
hither from Picardy by the river.
you proceed to Magny, a fmall town of the ifle Magny.
France in the Vexin Francoife. The houſes are
generally well built, and the treets regular.
There is only one parish-church, which is de-
dicated to our Lady; but they have fome con-
vents of men and women, and a good hofpital.
The adjacent country produces a great deal of
corn, in which the trade of the inhabitants chiefly
confifts. Leaving Magny you meet with no place
worth deſcription 'till you come to
I. ROAN.
Roan or Rouen is the capital of the province of Roen.
Normandy in Franee, in east longitude 1.6. lati-
tude 49. 30. This is one of the largeft, richeſft,
and most populous cities of France, pleafantly
fituated on the north bank of the Seine, encom-
paſſed on three fides with hills, and open only to-
wards the river. From thefe hills three little
rivers fall, the Aubette, the Renell, and the Rebec,
which ſerve to cleanſe the ſtreets, and for the ſe-
veral uſes of the tradeſmen and manufacturers.
The town is furrounded by a wall, with fome
antique towers, but incapable of fuftaining a
fiege. Though it is populous, containing fixty
thouſand fouls, yet it is not very large, the ftreets
being narrow, and the people much crowd-
ed. 'Tis the fee of an archbiſhop, and the feat
of the parliament of the province. They reckon
thirty parishes in the town, feveral hofpitals,
thirty five fountains, a great many public fquares,
fixteen convents of men, nineteen of women,
and a fine college of Jefuits. The cathedral de-
dicated
332
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
dicated to our Lady is one of the finest Gothic
ftructures in France, remarkable for the tombs of
feveral kings, princes, prelates, and noblemen,
particularly thofe of Henry III. and Richard I.
kings of England, and dukes of Normandy, on
cach fide of the high altar in the choir, and that
of Charles X. king of France in the middle of
the choir. The great bell of this church, called
George d'Amboife, from a cardinal and archbiſhop
of that name, by whofe orders it was made, is a
very great curiofity, being reckoned one of the
largeſt in the kingdom. In this church you fee
the figure of a devouring dragon, whom the cre-
dulous vulgar believe to have been overcome by
S. Romanus, archbishop of Roan, with the af-
ſiſtance of two prifoners under fentence of
death. In memory of this victory the archbiſhop
has the privilege of fetting at liberty every year a
criminal condemned to die, who carries in pro-
ceffion, with great folemnity, the ſhrine of
S. Romanus, called la Fierte. The two moſt
confiderable abbeys are, that of the Benedictine
monks, remarkable for its beautiful church, and
principally for the painted glafs windows, and
beautiful organ; and that of the Benedictine nuns
of S. Amant, which is very deferving of a tra-
veller's curiofity. The convent of the Carthu
fians, about three miles out of town, and that
of the barefooted Carmelites, are alfo worthy of
particular notice. The palace where the par-
liament hold their affemblies has feveral chambers
adorned with beautiful tapeſtry, and fine paintings,
a great many of which are done by the famous
Jouvenet. The great hall of this palace is re-
markable for having no pillars or columns to fup-
port it. Travellers fhould not forget going to
fee the fquare aux Veaux, where the celebrated
maid
through FRANCE.
333
maid of Orleans was burnt by the English for a
witch, and where the French have erected a fta-
tue to her memory, for preferving their country
from an entire conqueft by our nation. The
large number of fountains in the town is a great
conveniency to the inhabitants, and ornament to
the city, which has nothing to boaſt of in refpect
to the beauty of its private buildings. Along the
river there is a beautiful quay, with a fine walk
for the people of the town. At the beginning
of this quay ftands the old palace or caftle, flank-
ed with eight large round towers, and ſtrong
walls, defended with deep ditches full of water.
On this quay you ſee the cuſtom-houſe, and the
exchange, where the merchants meet. But the
greatest curiofity on the quay is the beautiful
bridge of boats, which rifes and falls with the
tide, is paved with ftones, and opens for the
paffage of large veffels; it was contrived in 1710
by Nicholas Bougeois, an Auguftinian friar of
Paris. At the other end of this bridge is the
fuburb of S. Severe, where they have a confi-
derable bufinefs in bleaching linnen, and in mak-
ing earthen ware.
The mall is alfo in this
fuburb, and the Courfe where the better fort of
people take the pleaſure of walking in fummer
evenings. The trade of this city is very con-
fiderable, veffels of two hundred tons being able to
come up from the fea to the quay, and unload
their merchandiſe. Their trade confifts chiefly
in woollen and linnen manufactures, leather, hats,
combs, paper, playing cards, pins, and abun-
dance of other haberdafhery wares. They have
likewiſe manufactures in glafs and fugar; and
they drive a great trade with their cattle, butter,
and cheeſe, which they fell to the fouthern pro-
vinces. They make alfo vaft quantities of cyder
and
334
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Cuen.
and perry, the common drink of the country,
with which they ſupply almoſt all the other pro-
vinces of France; but they have little or no
wine but what is brought them from the fouthern
provinces. The corporation of Roan confifts of
a mayor and fix aldermen, the mayor being e-
lected every three years. The neighbourhood of
this city is extremely pleafant; on every fide there
are fine walks, and beautiful country feats, which
was the reaſon that the famous Lord Clarendon
choſe to make it the place of his refidence during
his exile.
Befides the route given in the beginning of
this chapter from Roan to Caen, there is another
fometimes uſed by travellers, which is as follows:
From Roan to Couroune, feven miles; from Cou-
roune to La Bouille, five miles,; from La Bouille
to Beaugouet, fix miles; from Beaugouet to Breto,
three miles; from Breto to Ponteau de Mer,
three miles; from Ponteau de Mer to Pomme d'or,
fix miles; from Pomme d'or to Pont L'Eveque,
twelve miles; from Pont L'Eveque to Darnetal,
fix miles; from Darnetal to Dozuley, fix miles;
from Dozuley to Trouart, twelve miles; from
Trouart to Caen, fix miles. In both routes there
is never a place worth deſcription, fo that we will
proceed immediately to
II. CAEN.
Caen is the capital of the Lower Normandy,
in weft longitude 25 min. latitude 49. 20. This
is a large populous city, the fecond of the dutchy
of Normandy, fituate at the confluence of the
rivers Orne and Odon, in a fine, fruitful plain,
about fix miles fouth of the British channel. It is
the feat of an intendant, and of an univerſity
founded
through FRANCE.
335
founded in 1411, by Henry VI. king of England,
and renewed by Charles VII. in 1452. The
Normans first made this town confiderable, IVil-
liam the Conqueror having laid the foundation of
their caftle, and he and his queen built two ab-
beys here; the conqueror that of S. Stephen, in
which he was afterwards interred, and his queen
that of the Trinity, in which he was buried.
The inhabitants are computed at near forty thou-
fand fouls, and have a very good trade from their
communication with the fea by the little river
Orne, by which they bring up their merchandize
in fmall veffels of fixty tuns. The city contains
fixty ſtreets and twelve parifhes. The church of
the Holy Croſs is the beſt in Caen, and the next
is that of S. John, whofe fteeple is much ad-
mired for its architecture. The church of S.
Nicholas is likewife a large and handfome build-
ing. There are nine convents of men, and ſeven
of women, the principal of which are thoſe of
the Cordeliers, the Urfulines, and the nuns of
the Viſitation. The town houfe, built on the
bridge of S. Peter, is a very large edifice, with
four great towers. The royal fquare is one of.
the finest in Normandy, being large and well
paved, and adorned with handfome houfes on
three fides. In the middle of this fquare ftands
the ſtatue of Lewis XIV. in the Roman dreſs, on
a marble pedeſtal, and furrounded with an iron
balustrade. The Jefuits have a magnificent
church near the ramparts, from whence you dif-
cover the two Courfes, planted with trees, in a
beautiful meadow along the river Orne. The
other public buildings moft worthy of notice are,
the caſtle, the wall, with four towers built by
the English, the epifcopal palace belonging to the
bishop of Bayeux, the hotel, called the Cheval,
the
336
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Route from
Caen to
Michael.
the office of the exchequer, and the new build-
ings of the univerfity. This univerfity is in a
very flouriſhing condition, confifting of three
colleges, du Bois, du Cloutiers, and des Arts, to
which they have aggregated the Jefuits college.
Caen has a provoftſhip, a prefidial, a vicounty,
an office of the finances of the admiralty, and
other royal tribunals.
Thoſe who chufe to go from Caen to ſee the
town and abbey of S. Michael, may take the fol-
Mount S. lowing route.
lowing route. From Caen to Brette-ville, two
pofts: From Bretteville to Mefle S. Claire
two pofts From Mefle S. Claire to Condè
Jur Noireau, poft and a half: From Condè
to Tinchebray, poft and a half: From Tinchebray
to Mortain, two pofts: From Mortain to S. Hi-
laire du Hercouet, poft and a half: From S. Hi-
laire to S. Brice Landelle, poft: From S. Brice
to S. James, poft and a half: From S. James to
Pontorfon, poft and a half: From Pontorfon to
Mount S. Michael, nine miles. We have al-
ready given a deſcription of Mount S. Michael, in
the preceding chapter, p. 324. So that we have
now only to proceed in our direct journey from
Caen to Cherbourg.
III. BAYE U X.
Bayeux is a city of Normandy in France, in
Bayeux. weft longitude 50 min. latitude 49. 20. It is
fituate on the river Aure, about five miles from
the fea. 'Tis the fee of a biſhop, and contains
fifteen pariſhes, but very little people. The ca-
thedral dedicated to our Lady, is one of the largeſt
and fineft in the province, being particularly re-
markable for its three high fteeples. Befides the
pariſh churches, there are feveral religious houſes
of both fexes, and a magnificent college of Jefuits.
The
through FRANCE.
337
The bifhopric of Bayeux is one of the richest in
France.
From Bayeux you proceed to Iſſigny, a borough igny.
of Normandy, at the mouth of the little river
Vire. This borough has a fmall harbour much
frequented becaufe of its falt-houfes and falt-but-
ter, as alfo of its cyder, in which it drives a con-
fiderable trade.
From figny you proceed to Carentan, a ſmall Carentang
town of Normandy in France, in weſt longitude
1. 15. latitude 49. 20. It is fituate at the mouth
of the river Carentan, near a bay of the English
Channel. Towards the great fuburb there is
a ftrong caſtle, with a handſome ſquare fur-
rounded with very good houfes and fupported by
piazzas.
From Carentan you proceed to Valogne, a town Valogne,
of Lower Normandy, fituate in the dioceſe of
Coutances, on a little rivulet, about nine miles
from the fea, and twelve from the Hogue. There
are no walls to the town, and the caftle is quite
demoliſhed. They have a parochial church de-
dicated to our Lady, and convents of Benedic-
tins, Cordeliers, and Capuchins.
IV. CHERBOURG.
Cherbourg is a port town of France, in the pro- Cherbourgi
vince of Normandy, in weft longitude 1. 40. la-
titude 49. 45. This is a very ancient town, fi-
tuate at the extremity of the diocefe of Coutances,
on a bay of the English Channel, between Falogne,
Cape Hogue, and Barfleur. The harbour, which
is oppofite to Hampshire in England, admits of
veffels of three or four hundred tuns. 'Tis the
feat of an admiralty, but its fortifications were de
moliſhed by order of Lewis XIV. in 1689. The
VOL. IV.
parochial
е
338
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
3. Germains.
"
parochial church is a handfome building, re-
markable, among other things, for the tomb of
Mauger, archbishop of Roan, who was baniſhed
to Guernsey becauſe of his irregular life. They
have a very confiderable manufacture of cloths,
ferges, and ftuffs. At S. Gobino, a place in the
neighbourhood, there is a great manufacture of
glafs, which is afterwards poliſhed at Paris in
the fuburb of S. Antony.
Remarkable places in the fecond route.
In the ſecond route, the firſt place worth notice
you come to is, the town and caftle of S. Ger-
mains, already defcribed in this volume, p. 91.
Mante. The next is Mante, a ſmall town of France, in the
province of the ifle of France, in eaſt longitude
1. 45. latitude 49. It is fituate on the river
Seine, which forms abundance of little iſlands
hereabouts. The town is indifferently built, but
remarkable for a fine ftone bridge over the Seine
of thirty-nine arches, and a hand fome monaftery
of Celeftins. There is a little hill within the ju-
rifdiction of this city, that produces the beft wine
in France. Between Mante and Roan there is
no other place worth particular deſcription.
Evreux.
By-places in the firſt route.
About twenty-four miles fouth of Roan ſtands
Evreux, a city of France, in the province of
Normandy, the fee of a bifhop, capital of the
county of Evreux, in eaft longitude 1. 12. lati-
tude 49. 5. It is fituate in a fruitful plain on the
river Iton, and contains nine parishes, with fe-
veral religious houfes. The cathedral and the
magnificent
through FRANCE.
339
magnificent caſtle of Navarre in this neighbour-
hood are worth a traveller's curiofity.
Twenty-seven miles eaft of Caen, ftands Li- Lifieux.
fieux, a large city of Normandy, in eaſt longitude
16 min. latitude 49. 14. fituate at the confluence
of two ſmall rivers, partly on a hill, and partly
in a valley. 'Tis the fee of a biſhop, fuffragan of
Roan, and is furrounded by a wall and fome
antique towers. The cathedral and the bishop's
palace, are the only buildings worth particular
notice.1
Thirty-fix miles fouth of Cherburg, ftands Coutances,
Coutances, a port-town of Normandy, and capital
of Coutantin, in weft longitude 1. 32. latitude
49. 10.
This town, anciently called Conftantia,
or Cofedia, is pleaſantly fituate among the mea-
dows and rivulets about fix miles diftant from the
fea. By the remains of a Roman aqueduct, and
other ancient ruins, it appears to be a place of
great antiquity. 'Tis the fee of a biſhop, ſuffra-
gan of Rome, and has a magnificent cathedral,
esteemed one of the fineſt pieces of Gothic archi-
tecture in Europe. The trade of this town is
very inconfiderable, and the fortifications are quite
demoliſhed. They have feveral religious houfes,
and two parochial churches.
About twenty-four miles fouth of Coutances, Avranches.
ftands Avranches, a city of Lower Normandy,
fituate near the ſea coaft, on the top of a moun-
tain, at the foot of which runs the river See.
'Tis a bishop's fee, fuffragan of Roan, and has
a fine old cathedral dedicated to S. Andrew.
There are three parochial churches in the
town, an abbey, and ſeveral convents of both
fexes. The learned Huetius was biſhop of this
city.
Q 2
Twelve
•
340
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Barfsur.
Twelve miles to the eastward of Cherbourg,
ftands the town of Barfleur, in weſt longitude 1.
15. latitude 49.47. This was formerly one of
the moſt confiderable ports in Normandy, but the
harbour is now filled up with fands, and there re-
mains only a ſmall bafon. Here part of the
French fleet commanded by Admiral Tourville,
was burnt by the English, the day after the victory
obtained by Admiral Ruffel, near Cape la Hogue,
in 1692. La Hogue is a village in the neigh-
bourhood, from whence the moſt north-weſt
cape or promontory of Normandy takes its name.
1
CHA P. XIII.
Journey from Paris to Havre de Grace,
and Dieppe.
TH
HOSE who intend to go from Paris to
Havre or Dieppe, muſt paſs through Rean,
the route to which city we have given in the pre-
ceding chapter. From Roan to Havre the route
is as follows.
ROAN
Vieux
CAUDEBEC
Forges
La Botte
HAVRE DE CRACE
Pofts.
I
Mi
212
I
2
ત્ર
From
through FRANCE.
341
From Roan to Dieppe, and thence to Abbeville,
the poft route is as follows.
ROAN
Pofts.
Touvent
Toftes
Ofmonville
DIEPPE
La ville d'Eu
ABBEVILLE
플
​1 ½
I
बात बात बात
1 ½
3
13 1
From Abbeville to Calais you will find the
route in the ſecond chapter of this volume, p.
43. There is a ftage-coach that goes from
Roan to Dieppe in one day, and ftopes to dine
at an inn called Toftes about half way. Paffen-
gers pay fix livres a piece for their place.
Remarkable place in the route from Roan to
Havre de Grace.
Leaving Roan you meet with nothing worth Candebec.
deſcription till you come to Caudebec, a city of
Normandy, in eaft longitude 45 min. latitude 49.
32. It is fituate on the north fide of the river
Seine, at the foot of a mountain covered with
woods. The town is fmail but populous, having
a confiderable trade by means of the Seine, and
a very good manufacture of hats. The pub-
lic and private buildings are fo indifferent, as
not to merit a traveller's attention. Between
Caudebec and Havre there is no place worth de-
ſcription.
Q3
HAVRE
342
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Havre de
Grace.
Dieppe.
HAVRE DE GRACE.
Havre de Grace is a port town of Normandy,
in eaft longitude 10 min. latitude 49. 30. It is
a fmall fortified town, fituate in a large plain at
the mouth of the river Seine. It was anciently
called Francifcopolis from Francis its founder, but
how it came by the name of Havre de Grace, is
uncertain. The town is almoft of a fquare figure,
divided into two parts by the port, furrounded by
a wall and other works, and defended by a very
ftrong citadel. The fituation of this place at the
mouth of the Seine, as alfo the conveniency of
its harbour, and its foreign trade, render it one of
the moſt important places in the kingdom, for
which reafon it was made a dictinct government
from the reſt of Normandy. In the religious
wars in 1562, it was furprized by the French
Proteftants, and delivered up to queen Elizabeth,
but ſhe loſt it again the following year.
Remarkable places in the route from Roan to
Dieppe.
In this route you meet with nothing worth de-
fcription till you come to
DIEPPE.
Dieppe is a port town of Upper Normandy, in
France, in eaft longitude 1. 15. latitude 49. 55.
It was antiently called Juliobona Caletorum, and
its modern name is faid to be derived from its
ſtanding in a bottom. It is fituate on the north-
eaſt coaſt of Normandy, at the mouth of the little
river Arcques. In the year 1694, it was almoft
deſtroyed
through FRANCE.
343
destroyed by a bombardment from the English
fleet, fince which time it has rifen with greater
beauty out of its flames, being rebuilt after the
model of the town of Verfailles. It is of a tri-
angular figure, and ftrongly fortified; though the
works are very irregular, occafioned by the un-
evenness of the ground. The ſtreets are wide
and even, and the houfes well built of bricks.
The town is feparated from the fea by a long
wall, and a very deep ditch. The harbour is one
of the moſt confiderable on the coaft, but will not
admit of fhips of great burden. The caftle is a
very ancient building, where the governor refides,
and from whence there is a charming profpect.
The town is adorned with a great number of
handſome fountains, and has twenty gates, twelve
of which are along the quay. The churches of
S. James and S. Remigius, are large handfome
buildings. There are feveral religious houfes of
both fexes, and two colleges, one of Jefuits, the
other of the Fathers of the Oratory. The inha-
bitants are chiefly mariners, and computed at about
thirty thouſand fouls. They have a very good
trade, particularly in lace, and different kinds
of ivory-work, and toys. The manufacture
of tobacco is alfo one of the curiofities of
Dieppe.
Q4
CHAP.
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
CHA P. XIV.
Journey from Paris to Rheims and Se-
dan in the way to Luxemburg.
T
THERE is a ftage-coach that fets out from
Paris to Rheims on Saturdays and Mon-
days, at feven or eight in the morning; the fare
to each paffenger fifteen livres. The poft route
from Paris to Rheims, and from thence to Sedan,
is as follows.
PARIS
Bourget
Mefnil
Dammartin
Pofts.
Poft royal
2
I
:
NANTEUIL
Gondreville
VILLERS COTTERETS
Vertefeuille
SOISSONS
Brayne
FISMES
Fonchery
RHEIMS.
Ifle
RETEL
Chênel Pouilleux
SEDAN
mla -la mla wa mia
1
1
I
2
I
3
21
1222 må
From
A
through FRANCE.
345
From Sedau to Luxemburg, there is no poſt
road, but you may hire horſes or a chaife at
reaſonable rates, the diſtance is about fixty miles.
As for the deſcription of Luxemburg, fee the
firſt volume of this work, p. 290.
Remarkable places in this journey.
Leaving Paris the firft town you come to is Nanteuil
Nanteuil, called the Hautdouin. It has taken its
name from the perſon that built the caftle, which
forms the principal beauty of the place. There
is a handfame monaftery here of Benedictins, of
the congregation of S. Maur. From thence you
proceed to Viliers-Cotterets, a ſmall town of the Villers-
dutchy of Valois, in the ifle of France, fituate in Cotterets.
the foreft of Rets, from whence it is likewife cal-
led Villers-Cofte de Rets. The only remarkable
thing is the caſtle, which is worth feeing. The
parish church is ferved by the monks of S. Nor-
bert, who have an abbey here that was transferred
from Clairefontaine, on the confines of the dio-
cefe of Laon. There is alfo a monaftery without
the town; and fix miles from thence, as you go
out of the foreſt, you ſee the abbey of Valfery,
alfo of the order of S. Narbert.
I. SOISSONS.
Soiffons is a city of the ifle of France, in eaft
longitude 3. 21. latitude 49. 28. This is a large
populous city, fuppofed to be the Noviodunum of
Cefar, fituate in a pleaſant fruitful valley on the
river Aifne. During the first race of their kings,
it was the capital of the kingdom, and now is a
biſhop's fee, fuffragan of Rheims. The town is
furrounded with a wall and other fortifications,
Sailors.
↓
Q5
and
346
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Fifmes.
Rheims.
and defended by an antique caftle, flanked with
great round towers. It is in general well built,
and is the feat of a bailiwic, a prefidial, and an
election. The cathedral dedicated to S. Gervafe
and Protafe, is remarkable for one of the moſt
confiderable chapters of the kingdom. The
bishop, in the abfence of the archbishop of
Rheims, has the privilege of crowning the French
kings. They have twelve pariſhes and fix abbeys,
with ſeveral other religious houfes, among which
the abbeys of our Lady and S. Medard are the moſt
deferving of a traveller's notice. There is alfo an
academy of Belles Lettres in Soiffons, which is in
very great repute. The inhabitants have a good
trade in corn the adjacent country being very
fruitful; the walks by the river fide are extremely
pleaſant.
Leaving Soifons you come to Filmes, a fmall
town of Champagne, in the diftrict of Rhemois,
fituate a little above the confluence of the Nore
and the Vee. This is a pretty neat place, but
contains nothing remarkable. The country from
hence to Rheims is hilly, but abounding with corn,
beafts, and graſs.
II. RHEIM S.
Rheims or Reims is the capital of the province
of Champagne in France, in eaſt longitude 4. la-
titude 49. 20. This is one of the moſt elegant
cities in France, fituate in the middle of a large
plain, on the river Veffe, and encompaffed with
a wall about three miles in circumference. The
houſes are in general well-built, the ftreets wide,
and the churches and other public buildings mag-
nificent. 'Tis a very ancient city, as appears
by the ſeveral Roman monuments that have been
found
2
through FRANCE.
347
found here of late years; and it is even mentioned
by Cæfar, under the name of Civitas Rhemorum,
as one of the moſt potent cities in Gaul. 'Tis now
the fee of an archbiſhop, who ever ſince the reign
of Lewis the Young, has had the privilege of con-
fecrating the kings of France, and is the firſt
duke and ecclefiaftical peer of the realm. The
cathedral, dedicated to our Lady is a magnificent
old building, remarkable for the architecture of
the front, and the beautiful figures in relievo, with
which it is adorned. It is ſaid to have been built
by Clotildis, the wife of Clovis, the firft Chrifti-
an king of France. The ceremony of the
French king's coronation is always performed
in this cathedral, by the archbiſhop, affifted by the
biſhops of Laon and Langres, who are alfo dukes
and peers; the biſhops of Beauvais, Noyon, and
Chalons, who are counts and peers; and fix of
the lay nobility, viz. the dukes of Burgundy,
Guienne and Normandy, and the counts of Tou-
loufe, Champagne and Flanders. The abbey of
S. Nicaife, of the order of S. Benedict, is the
largeſt building in Rheims next to the cathedral;
its front and the two ſteeples are worth particular
notice. The abbey of S. Remy, likewife of the
order of S. Benedict, is a ſpacious building with a
fine large Gothic church, in which are the tombs
of Lewis de Outremer, Lothaire, and Lewis V.
who were of the line of Charlemain. In the trea-
fury of this abbey, they preferve a great many
relics, and among the reft the holy phial, which
contains the oil ufed at the confecration of their
kings, and the paftoral ftaff of S. Remi, whofe
tomb is beautifully adorned with ſculptures, pillars,
and ſtatues, and in the middle of them you ſee the
buft of Lewis XIII. in the robes of ſtate. The
abovementioned holy oil was, according to the
Q6
tradition
ง
348
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
tradition of the French nation, brought from
heaven by a white dove, at the confecration of
Clovis I. There are feveral handſome ſquares in
the city, and a magnificent town-houſe. The
religious houſes are pretty numerous, among
which
the Cordeliers and the Dominicans are worth fee-
ing. They have an univerfity which was found-
ed in 1547, by Charles Cardinal of Lorrain, arch-
biſhop of this city. The company of Harquebu-
ziers of Rheims is very confiderable; they perform
their exerciſe in a garden affigned for that uſe,
where they have erected a pedeſtrian ftatue of
Lewis XIV. The antiquities of this city parti-
cularly merit a traveller's attention, among which
the triumphal arch, dug up in 1677, is the moſt
remarkable. This arch was formerly the northern
gate, fuppofed to be erected to the honour of
Julius Cæfar, or according to others of Julian
the Apoftate, when after the conqueft of the Ger
mans, he paffed by Rheims in his way to Paris.
It is compofed of three arches of the Corinthian
order, that in the middle being thirty-five feet
high, and twelve broad, the baffo-relievo's of
which repreſent a woman with a Cornucopia, to
fhew the fertility of the country: That on the
right hath Remus and Romulus fucking a wolf,
with the fhepherd Fauftulus and Laurentia his
wife, ftanding by them: On the third arch,
Leda is feen in Jupiter's embraces, metamorphofed
into a fwan, and Cupid holding a lighted torch
in his hand. Near this arch are the remains of
an ancient Roman caſtle, and about two hundred
paces from the town, you may fee the ruins of
another triumphal arch, and of an amphitheatre.
The inhabitants of Rheims have a confiderable
trade in wine, the neighbouring country pro-
ducing excellent Champagne, as alſo in different
M
1
i
7
kinds
through FRANCE.
349
kinds of woolen and filk ftuffs. The ginger-
bread of Rheims is likewife very much efteemed.
From Rheims you proceed to Rhetel, a town of Rhetel.
France in the province of Champagne, in eaft
longitude 4. 24. latitude 49. 31. It is the ca-
pital of a dutchy, and is fituate on the river
Aifne. The town is but poorly built, and has
only one pariſh and a convent of Capuchins.
The caſtle is very ancient, and almoſt falling to
ruin. Rhetel was originally only a fort, built by
the Romans to fecure the paffage of the Aifne;
they built likewife a large tower in this place
which is ftill remaining. Near this town a me-
morable battle was fought between the French
and Spaniards in 1650, in which the former
gained the victory.
III. SEDA N.
Sedan is a town of Champagne in France, in eaſt Sedan.
longitude 4. 45. latitude 49. 46. This is the
capital of a principality of the fame name, and
is fituate on the Maefe, fix miles from Bouillon,
and fifteen from Charleville. Its fituation on the
frontiers of the territory of Liege, Namurs, and
Limburg, render it a place of great importance,
and one of the keys of the kingdom. It is ex-
tremely well fortified, and defended by a citadel,
which is reckoned a mafter-piece of military art.
The great church is near the corn-market; and
that of the Jefuits, which is a handfome building,
is towards the great fquare. The caftle is fituate
on a rock, and furrounded with large towers
and ſtrong walls. The governor's palace is op-
pofite the caſtle. From the ramparts there is a
moft agreeable profpect of the Maefe and the
neighbouring country. Though the town is but
2
fmall,
350
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
fmall, yet it is full of tradefmen, as tanners,
weavers, dyers, and others, the manufacture of
fine cloth in this city employing a great number
of hands. The principality of Sedan formerly
belonged to the duke of Bouillon, who was o-
bliged in the beginning of the laſt century to re-
fign it to the crown in exchange.
CHA P. XV.
Journey from Paris to Lifle and Va-
lenciennes.
TH
WHERE is a ftage-coach that fets out from
Paris to Lifle, on Tueſdays and Fridays,
from the freet of S. Dennis at the great fquare.
Paffengers pay twenty-five livres for their place,
and three livres per pound for baggage. From
Paris to Valenciennes, you go with the Bruffels
coach, which fets out on Wednesdays and Sa-
turdays. We fhall give here the poft routes,
and the routes uſed by the ftage-coach from Paris
to both the above-mentioned cities.
"
Poft route from Paris to Lifle.
PARIS
Bourget
LOUVRES
La Chapelle en Serval
SENLIS
PONT S. MAIXENCE
Bois de Libu
Pofts.
Poſt Royal.
I //
15
I
11 1/1/0
1/11
Gournay
mia n/a
;
through FRANCE.
351
Gournay
I
Cuvilly
I
Couchy les Pots
I
ROYE
I
Fonches
I
Marché le Pot
I
PERONNE
I
Sailli
Erville
ARRAS
Lens
1212
2
1
2
1/
ल
Pont a Vendin
LISLE
The poft route from Paris to Valenciennes.
You follow the preceding route as far as Pe-
ronne, where you take the road to Cambray.
PERONNE
Nurlu
Metz en Couture
CAMBRAY
Appe
VALENCIENNES
Pofts.
I
ཡསས།
The
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
352
The coach route from Paris to Lifle.
D. fignifies the place where you dine, S. where
you fup.
Engliſh miles from one place
to another.'
PARIS
D. 18. LOUVRES
S. 12. SENLIS
D. 21. Gournay
S. 18. RoYE
D. 15. Mieucourt
S. 15. PERONNE
D. 15. BAPAUME
S. 13. ARRAS
18
30
41
59
74
.89
104
117
D. 16. Pont à Vendin
133
S. 15. LISLE
148J
Engliſh miles from Paris.
The coach route from Paris to Valenciennes.
English miles from one place to
another.
୮
PARIS.
D. 18. LOUVRES
S. 12. SENLIS
9. Verberie
D. 12. COMPIEGNE
S. 15. NOYON
า
18
30
39
51
66
78
S. 15. S. QUINTIN
D. 12. Catelet
93
105
117
129
141J
D. 12. Ham
*
S. 12. CAMBRAY
D. 12. Appe
S. 12. VALENCIENNES
Engliſh miles from Paris.
Remarkable
Ax
through FRANCE.
353
Remarkable places in the poft route from
Paris to LISLE.
Leaving Paris you come to Louvres, a borough
of the ifle of France, commonly called Louvre
en Parifis. The caſtle, and the adjacent country
are very agreeable. From Louvre you proceed
to
I. SENLIS.
Senlis is a town of the ifle of France, in eaft Senlis.
longitude 2. 30. latitude 49. 10. It is fituate in
a pleaſant country, on the river Nonette, fix
miles from Chantilly, and twenty-feven from
Beauvais. 'Tis of. an oval figure, has fome old
fortifications, feven parochial and two collegiate
churches. Formerly it was called Sylvan ectum,
and is now a bishop's fee, fuffragan of Rheims.
The cathedral, dedicated to our Lady, was
founded by S. Regulus, the firſt biſhop. The
fteeple of this church is one of the higheft in
France; the church is remarkable for the figures
on the right fide of the front. There is an abbey
of the order of S. Auftin in the town, and feve-
ral other religious houfes. They have likewiſe a
bailiwic, a prefidial, and an election.
From Senlis you procced to Pont-Sainte Ma Pont-Sainte
xence, a ſmall town of the ifle of France, fituate Maxence.
on the river Oyfe, over which there is a bridge.
Though the town is fmall, yet it has a confi-
derable trade, particularly in wood and corn,
with which it furniſhes the city of Paris.
-From Pont-Sainte Maxence, you proceed to Roye.
Roye, a ſmall town of Picardy, fituate near the
fource
354
The TRAVELLER'S GUIDE
Peronne.
fource of the Moreuil, twelve miles from Noyon.
It was formerly a toll houſe, which Philip Au-
guftus purchaſed in 1205, of Bartholomew de Roye.
Charles V. made it a provoftfhip, and united it.
to the crown domain in 1373. It has a colle-
giate church, dedicated to S. Florent, with fome
other parishes, and an hofpital.
II. PERONNE.
Peronne is a city of France, in the province of
Picardy, in eaft longitude 3. latitude 50. It is
a ſmall, but ſtrong and populous town, fituated
in a morafs on the river Somme. They give it
the name of Virgin, becauſe it was never taken,
notwithstanding the feveral attempts on it by the
Spaniards. The fortifications are the work of
the Chevalier de Ville. There is a collegiate
church in the town, with three pariſhes, and a
college belonging to the fathers of the Trinity.
Leaving Peronne you proceed to Arras, a de-
ſcription of which city, with the reft of the towns
in this route, you may fee in the firft volume,
p. 281 and 277.
Remarkable places in the poft route from Paris
to Valenciennes.
We have already obferved that this route is
the fame as the foregoing, as far as Peronne.
From Peronne you proceed to Cambray, for a de-
fcription of which city we refer you to the first
volume, p. 225. and for that of Valenciennes, we
refer you to the fame volume, chap. xi. p. 223.
where you will find the route from Valenciennes
to Bruffels.
་་་་་་
:
Remarkable
through FRANCE.
355 -
Remarkable places in the coach route from
Paris to Lifle.
Thoſe places that are worth deſcription in this
route, are the fame as in the foregoing poft route
from Paris to Liſle, except.
BAPA U M E.
Bapaume is a fortified town of the province of Bapaume.
Artoife, in the French Netherlands, in eaft longi-
tude 3. latitude 50. 10. It is fituate on the
confines of Picardy, in a country where there are
neither rivers nor fountains, fo that it may be
eafily befieged for want of water and forage for
the army, though it is very well fortified. The
infide of the town confifts only of three ftreets,
and has nothing worth notice, except the caftle,
the church of our Lady, and the town-houſe.
Remarkable places in the coach route from
Paris to Valenciennes.
The remarkable places in this route have been.
defcribed already in the firft volume of this work,
chap. xi. which contains a journey from Bruſſels
to Cambray and Paris
THE
·34
356
A
Alby
Alcala
THE
INDE X.
Aix
A.
Bbeville page 46
Agde
Albuquerque
B.
247
279
Badajos
289 Bagnois
163 Bapaume
355
250 Barbefieux
234
268 Barcelona
191
295
Bar fur Aube
209
Alcantara
253
Bayeux
336
Alençon
323 Bayonne
Almada
253
Beaucaire
Amboife
255 Beaune
227
300
236
284
146
Ambrun
185 Beauvais
112
Amieno
47 Beffort
212
Anciennes
310 Bellem
253
Angers
308 Befançon
214
Antibes
174
Beziers
288
Arada del Duero
240
Blaye
256
Argenton
264 Blois
230
Arles
176 Boulogne
44
Arnay le Duc
153 Bourdeaux
234
Auxerze
142 Bourg
149
Auxonne
213 Bourges
296
Avignon
161 Breſt
316
Avranches
339 Briau
124
Briançon
The INDE X.
357
Briançon
214 Clermont
278
Brie Count Robert 206 Cofne
124
Brignole
172 Coutances
339
Britany
9
Brives
265
Burgoin
180
D.
Burgos
239
Burgundy
12 Dauphine
14
Dax
256
Dieppe
342
C.
Dijon
143
Dole
213
Caen
334 Dinant
326
Cabors
266 Dreux
338
Calatajad
294
Carcassonne
274
Carentan
337
E.
Cafcais
253
Caftilnaudary
273 Ecouen
49
Caftres
268 Elvas
247
Caudebec
341 Epernay
191
Chalons
191 Eftempes
228
Chalons
147
Evreux
338
Champagne
8
Chantilly
49
Charenton
150
F.
Charité
125
Chartres
317 La Fertè
190
Chateau-Thierry 190 La Fertè Bernard
318
Chateau-roux
246 La Fleche
319
Chatelheraut
232 Fontainbleau
107
Chaumont
210 Filmes
346
Cherbourg
337 France
I
Colmar
200 France Comptè
2I
Clermont
Clermont
49 Frejus
173
192
E.
E.
358
The INDE X.
Lionnois
13
G.
Liſbon
250
Lifieux
339
Gaillac
268 Loches
231
Gallareta
238 Lucon
30
Gannat
277
Luneville
202
Girona
290 Lufarche
Grenoble
181 Lufignan
49
298
Guadalaxara
294 Lyons
130
Guienne
19
M.
H.
Macon
148
La Haye
232
Madrid (city)
240
Havre de Grace
342
Madrid (palace)
106
Hennebon
314 Magny
331
Hieres
180
Maintenon
317
Houdan
322
Mans
Mante
I.
Marli
Marſeilles
319
338
104
165
Ingrand
232
Mayenne
323
Foigny
141 Meaux
189
Ifle of France
7
Medina del Campo · 285
Ile of Pheasants
237
Melun
151
Illigny
337
Merida
264
Metz
194
L.
Meudon
105
Miranda
238
Langon
256 Montargis
123
Langres
210
Montaubon
267
Languedoc
18 Montbeliard
217
Laval
324
Lavain
269
Montelimart
Mount Dauphine
158
185
Lorida
292
Mont-Louis
290
Les Diguieres
Limoges
185
Montpellier
285
264 Montreuil
46
Mont
The INDE X.
359
Mont S. Michael 323 Pignorol
184
Moret
Morlaix
140 Poitiers
232
313 Poix
I 12
Mortagne
Monlins
322 Pont a Moufin
195
127
Pont de Beauvoifin 186
Pont S. Efprit
159
N.
Pont Sainte Maxence 353
Pontoise
Nancy
201
Port Louis
Nanteuil
345 Provence
Nants
310 Provins
330
314
16
207
Narbonne
274
Nemours
123
Nevers
126
Niort
299 Quimper
315
Nifmes
280
Nogens de Rotron
318
R.
Nogent fur Seine
207
Normandy
6
Rambouilliet
317
Noyers
142 Rennes
325
Nuits
146 Rennes
312
Rheims
346
O.
Rhetel
349
Riom
277
Orange
A
160
Roan
331
Orleannis
I I
Roane
129
Orleans
228
Rochfort
301
Oragne
237
Rochelle
299
Romorentin
263
P.
Rouffillon
22
Royan
302
Paris
52
Roye
353
Pecquigny
47
Peronne
354
S.
Perpignan
276
Pezenas
288 S. Beaume
179
Phaltzburg
196 S. Brieux
313
Picardy
4 S. Cloud
109
S.
360
The NDE X.
S. Denis
Sedan
Senlis
S. Germains
S. Germains
i
50 Tolofa
349 Toulon
Toul
替
​238
170
353
200
338 Toulouſe
270
91 Tours
306
S. John de lux
237 Tournon
156
S. Malo
327 Tournus
148
S. Maneboud
192 La Trappe
322
S. Maximin
179
Trevoux
150
S. Maixant
298 Trianon
103
S. Mefmin
229 Troyes
208
Soiffons
345
Truxillo
246
S. Poifin
277
S. Pierce le Montin 127
U.
S. Sebaftian
S. Seine
237
143 Uferches
265
Saintes
255 Uſex
279
Saintes
302
Salon
175
V.
Saragoffa
292
Sarrebourg
195 Valence
157
Saumur
307 Valladolid
254
Saverne
196 Valogne
337
Scheleftat
200 Vannes
313
Sens
140 Verdun
193
Straſburg
197
Verſailles
92
Vic
195
T.
Victoria
238
Vienne
154
Talavera de la Reyna
Villers Cotterets
345
245 Villefranche
149
Tarau
Tarafcon
Toledo
129 Villeneuve le Roy
141
284 Vincennes
90
248 Vivonne
234
:
F1N1 S.
}
',
'
$
1
*
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
3 9015 03076 2580