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WZZTAſ ZCA/A2A2E A/A PS L ON DO N KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO., I, PATERNOSTER SQUARE 1883 (The rights of translation and of reproduction are rese, wed.) : © : : : ; ‘...!, § Tº , \ \ - 2, § - 4.4. 5 oas PREFACE. -º-º-º-C-O-e- THE following pages have been written in an interval of leisure following upon a return home from service in Japan, by a civil engineer who has been engaged for Several years under the Japanese Department of Public Works. They form a record of work, travel and re- creation, but do not offer any formal summary of the results of study; though it will scarcely be supposed that the institutions of the country have failed to impress the writer, who has ventured to express some views that are the outcome of his own experience and observation, in terms that it is hoped may not be found unduly prejudiced. - For reasons stated in their place, this work is of an unambitious and necessarily egotistical character, and its production may be attributed to the author's own obstinacy in face of some discouragement arising from the number and interest of previous works by more accomplished writers, the list of whom includes, how- ever, more students and visitors than actual participators wº V1 $. ARAE FACE. in the material tasks undertaken of late in Japan ; and as one of the latter class the author submits his tiny effort to the indulgence of readers. The maps are intended chiefly to illustrate the travels recorded ; but they contain some contribution to the corrections by which those having local knowledge can aid compilers. It only remains to be stated that the “Chief’ re- ferred to in the earlier part of the book is Mr. R. Vicars Boyle, C.S.I., to whom the author would have sought permission to inscribe his work, were it more worthy; and that the “Chief Commissioner,” or head of the Railway Bureau, is Mr. Inouye Masaru, now Vice- Minister of Public Works, to whose energy a large measure of the success and progress of railway work in Japan is due. April, 1883. CONTENTS. —e-->e—- CHAPTER I. YokołłAMA AND KOBE (1873) e a º º, º e II. Journey UP CountRY III. FIRST YEAR’s WORK : TSURUGA, SHIóTsū, AND NAGA- HAMA (1874) * * s & 9 IV. SECONE YEAR’s WORK : AKASAKA, NAGöy A (1875) V. THIRD YEAR’s WoRK (1876) VI. COMPLETION OF THE OSAKA-KIYöTO RAILWAY — THE GREAT REBELLION OF 1877 VII. Holiday TRIP: NIKKÖ, THE NAKASENDö, AND ISK, VIII. OSAKA AND TöKIYö (1877) IX. TöKIvö (1877–8) * tº º ºs X. TRIP TO FUJISAN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD (1878) XI. TöKIvö (1878–9) XII. Journey IN THE NORTH (1879) ... XIII. TöKIYö (1879–80) XIV. TöKIYö AND HAKONE (1880–1) XV. Journey FROM NAGASAKI To KOBE (1882) MAPS AT END OF THE VOLUME. CENTRAL JAPAN. NORTHERN JAPAN. SouTHERN JAPAN. PAGE 18 39 7I IOI EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. CHAPTER I. YOKOHAMA AND KOBE (1873). THE day before our arrival in Japan was a fine Friday in the beginning of November. We were a select few, on this the last stage of our passage out, having dropped our contingent to the Mediterranean garrisons at Gibraltar and Malta, and our Egyptian merchants at Alexandria, transferred our chaplains and frisky matrons to another steamer at Suez, lost our only presentable maiden at Galle, cleared out all mothers and babies at Penang and Singapore, and parted from our tea-men and missionaries at Hong Kong. The nine or ten remaining drew closer together (chiefly in a little smoking tent rigged up over the main hatchway of the Avoca) as we ran up the China coast against the monsoon, and slanted over north of Formosa for the islands at the south-west extremity of Japan. Clear skies and a tranquil sea enabled us thenceforward to enjoy the views presented by the ever-changing coasts, clothed in many tinted B 2 EIGHT YEARS IN 5A PAN. woods, and indented by strangely named bays or pierced by channels communicating with the Inland Sea. The twin lighthouses on the Kii promontory, Oshima hiding its lovely haven, the rugged and forbidding-looking mountains that frowned at us across the Gulf of Isé, as we sped away eastward, rose to us and fell away ; and then above a hazier coast-line the cone of Fuji lifted its Snowy crest into the blue to our left, as we ploughed along on Our last afternoon's course, towards the evening dusk and the tiny bright guide that stood waiting for us on Rock Island. - Our skipper was a jovial soul, always popular with his passengers, good for a song or two in an evening, and for a private store of ripe pumelo, to be shared with whomsoever would turn out and sit on the rail with him at Sunrise. We induced him, by gentle pressure, to contravene all the rules of the service by authorizing the steward to serve out anchovy toast and hot grog at an abnormally late hour on this our last evening on board. Then for the last time we had (always by special request) “Old Uncle Noah" (copyright), “Sandy, he belongs to the mill” (author unknown, music ad Ziółtum), “Lorelei" (for no less than five of us were Germans), “Auld lang syne,” “Die Wacht am Rhein,” and “God save the Queen" (by the whole strength of the company) —and then we went to roost, leaving the skipper to keep the ship's head straight. We all got our traps into shape betimes next morn- ing, and I noticed that whereas the English three rather affected the free and easy costume of the traveller, the Germans, and those who had been in Yokohama YO KOAIA/MA A WYO KOA E. 3. before, appeared in ceremonial garments as if to per- petrate a series of afternoon calls, and presented a noble and dignified appearance as we steamed up the Bay of Yedo. As soon as the harbour master (for in those days there was one in Yokohama) had come on board, and the anchor was dropped, we were surrounded by boats of all descriptions, from the modest one-scull sampan, to the lordly steam-launch, and all Yokohama swarmed on to our decks. Being fortunate enough to get ashore in a comfortable gig, I left all my heavy baggage in charge of a hotel tout who looked trustworthy, and encumbering myself only with a hand-bag steered for the Grand Hotel, and was speedily outside a light repast of oysters and Chablis. This accomplished, and a specimen cigarette dis- posed of, two travellers, one with a brown complexion and a yellow beard, and the other with a yellow com- plexion and a brown beard, wearing billycocks to match the complexion of the one and the beard of the other, might have been descried by the glass-protected eye of Yokohama fashion, wending their way towards the railway offices, there to report themselves as newly arrived members of the engineering staff. But as it was Saturday afternoon, no persons of sufficient dignity to receive them were to be found ; so the two travelling companions separated, one to seek his friends in Tökiyö, and the other to go about his own devices. An English-speaking clerk of doubtful nationality - volunteered the information that the Engineer-in-chief lived at Ya-ma-go-ju-ku-ban, and the traveller, who secretly prided himself upon his accurate memory of 4. FIGHT YEARS IN 9APAA). syllables, set out in the direction indicated ; but the syllables became mixed, and after trying various com- binations of them, or others like them, the wanderer concluded that he had better regain his hotel; and being tired, accepted the offer of an economically-clothed man to wheel him. But the word “hotel” was not the required talisman either, it seemed, in this case. However, the coolie assumed an interrogative air, and placed the tips of his fingers together prayerfully twice; which being recognized as probably signifying “twenty,” the number of the Grand Hotel, which the traveller had fortunately picked up and remembered, led to a joyful assent and ultimate attainment of that haven. A fresh start on lines properly laid down, was of course practicable, but on consideration it was deemed better to wait for Monday morning for the official presentation ; and a second venture into the streets of Yokohama was rewarded by the discovery of a sympa- thetic hair-dresser, whose ministrations were highly beneficial, conferring as they did a sense of respecta- bility that rendered Sunday morning not such an utterly. purposeless incongruity as it had seemed since leaving Galle. So attendance at Christ Church, after a good night's rest, and the sight of the skipper in a tall hat and a new pair of gloves, became a special Comfort ; and a sense of home influence was also imparted by the assistance at the service of more than one specimen of the bend, limp, and panier School of feminine refinement, then in favour with the matrons of Yokohama. The Sunday afternoon was partly devoted to the study of the mystic syllables Ya-ma-go-ju-ku-ban ; and YOKOA/AMA AAVZ) A. O.A.A. 5 it became apparent that a good deal depended upon how much one might recollect of this formula, as, while the whole indicated with sufficient exactness the residence of the Engineer-in-chief, the last four syllables would take One to the general store, and the last two to the devil. However, the sacred character of the day assisted the finding of the “yama,” or bluff, as the hill east of the Settlement is called, and the “gojukuban,” or number fifty-nine, situated thereupon, without mishap, and the achievement of an unofficial presentation. Monday morning duly brought about an introduction to the service, represented by the aforesaid chief, a director, an accountant, and a commissioner ; the last- named being a dapper little Japanese gentleman who understood English pretty well. He, however, adhered to the courteous native practice of ejaculating “heh ” at every second word addressed to him, by way of assuring his interlocutor that he was paying the greatest atten- tion, and also intimating his entire concurrence in what was said by echoing the last words of each phrase as it came to a conclusion. After a time one gets used to this sort of undercurrent, and can glide over it smoothly in flowing periods; but at first it has a decidedly interruptive effect. I remember this first example of a native Official with great pleasure, for. though I did not meet him again for two years, I had then to act in conjunction with him, and a very good fellow I found him to be. Then we (for the other man had come in from what I had supposed to be the country, but which turned out to be the metropolis) made acquaintance with the 6 EIGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. resident engineer, and an assistant of his, and also with the traffic manager—all engaged on the short line of railway between Yokohama and Tökiyö ; and we were provided with an interpreter and free passes, and requested to make ourselves acquainted with the results So far of railway enterprise in Japan, as a preliminary to Our Own start upon active service. I will not venture to say that what we saw commanded our entire approval; but it is futile now to criticise in detail the works of this first railway in Japan, as it became necessary within a very few years to undertake operations that almost amounted to re-making the whole line from one end to the other, and as events turned out this had to be done under my own superintendence. Our inspection of the railway ; the concoction (purely as a pastime) of a design for altering the Yokohama terminus in case an impossible extension should be undertaken ; the making of short excursions into the country that we might become acquainted with the customs of the people; a visit to Tökiyö, to look at temples, the area devastated by the last great fire, the castle, and the engineering college; and several en- deavours to acquire a taste for hot water with cherry blossoms in it, and for raw fish with soy, filled up part of our leisure during the ensuing three weeks, fortunately of faultless weather, while we were waiting for instruc- tions. We also dined with the director, and tiffined with the chief; attended a performance by the Amateur Dramatic Society (Sheridan's “Critic,” very well done); and partook of Such other amusements as our acquaint- ances helped us to. But as this was not what we had YOA OAZAA/A AAVZ) A OA E. 7 come out for, we were glad to receive instructions to proceed to Kobe, and thence start up country on a survey of some difficulty for a projected railway across the main- land of Japan ; and I fear I had contracted a pronounced dislike for the scene of our enforced idleness, after our long voyage out from England, before the Colorado, Some days overdue from San Francisco, steamed into harbour, and our coast mail-boat, the Golden Age, that had been detained till she should arrive, at last stirred her lazy paddles and swung about her lofty deck-houses as she staggered away, rolling and pitching down the Gulf of Yedo, against a head-wind. The run from Yokohama to Kobe takes usually about thirty hours; but we had an exceptionally long passage, leaving Yokohama at four o'clock on thc after- noon of a Saturday, and dropping anchor about one o'clock on Monday. For about three hundred miles we retraced our track of three weeks before, and then turned northwards through the Kii channel into the Idzumi sea, a land-locked expanse of water communicating with the Inland Sea of Japan to the westward by the straits of Akashi about a dozen miles from Kobe. As we steamed up towards the harbour, a range of snow-tipped hills, about three thousand feet high, con- fronted us ; but these sank behind a lower and nearer range as we neared the land, and the white houses of the settlement came in view. While we were taking our tiffin" before landing we were joined by one of the old staff, who years before had been in the same service in India as my companion ; SO we fraternized promptly. Our friend led us to the Astor House, at which we had 8 EIGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. been (demi-officially) recommended to stay while in Robe, in preference to the larger and better-appointed Hiogo Hotel, frequented by sea-faring men, billiard players, and the consumers of cock-tails. We found, however, that such things were not entirely unknown at the quieter house in the back street. Then, having engaged our rooms, we proceeded further under the guidance of our friend to the railway offices, where we found our consignee, the Chief Assistant- Engineer, and sundry others of Our Own persuasiou , and formed the centre of a procession from the offices to the club, taking the consulate on the way. We had of course to be registered as British subjects, and certified and rendered poorer in worldly goods to the extent of five dollars each ; but it being now December, the worthy consul certified us as for the following year, such liberality well befitting his dignity as the best paid consul in Japan. - At the club we found more billiard-tables, and a bowling alley and library; and were solemnly intro- duced to the honorary Secretary, whom we had before seen on board in his official capacity as harbour master. Further, we made acquaintance with about fifty wild young merchant princes of Kobe, all of thcm very affable and condescending ; and went home to our hotel to dinner, feeling free of the place. The idea we had formed from our observations in the neighbourhood of Yokohama, namely, that railway engineering in Japan was not as railway engineering elsewhere within our knowledge, was strengthened by what we saw at Kobe. The permanent buildings for YOKOHAMA AAVD KOBAE. 9 the station and workshops were of iron, and had been designed upon the assumption that all the columns would be most suitably supported upon screw-piles ; but when it came to erecting them, the screw-piles proved to be not quite long enough to reach the ground when the columns were fixed with reference to the intended rail level. So the structure was propped up in the air on tem- porary supports, while the ground was elevated, by means of concrete in blocks and sand filling, until the screws at the lower ends of the piles were reached and imbedded. Hard by we found one of the engineering staff despairing of getting into proper position a series of pegs intended to denote the centre line of railway, on a curve, because his theodolite was marked the wrong way round, as he said ; but his resources were not by any means at an end, for in our presence he instructed his foreman to Set the rails right, as near as he could, by eye alone, that he might get his centre line by measuring from them, and thus have no mistake as to the proper position of his future platforms | We had tiffin afterwards with this good fellow—as he really was—and I don't think he ever knew the real cause of our suddenly losing our gravity when he mentioned for our information that the railway had many quite unnecessary curves in it. Other funny things did we see that day and the next, and presently learned to keep Our Countenances under proper discipline; and, moreover, ceased to wonder at the alleged delay in completing the line. For it appeared that the only known way of passing a stream of water eighteen inches wide under the line, was to build a couple of walls that would have served for the IO AIGAZ7" YEARS MAW 9AAAAW. abutments of a fifty-foot bridge, a foot and a half apart, and span the yawning gulf between them by means of beams sixteen inches square, of expensive timber, of sufficient length to have about a dozen feet at each end buried in the embankment behind the masonry. The walls were of finely worked granite, and must have cost a mint of money; but a structure of this description was to be found nearly every hundred yards. Then we came upon two tunnels under rivers, justified by the peculiarity of the situation, but remark- able as being constructed for a single line only, while a third tunnel, a little further on, was made wide enough for a double line—the difference being explained by the statement that it had always been intended that the tunnels should be for a double line, but it was not found out while the two first were being constructed that they were not so. We found, at any rate, that our Chief, who had not been long in the country, and who had at first to make the best use he could of a staff constituted on the basis of taking any one to be an engineer who said he was an engineer, and who was rapidly bringing order out of chaos, had some justification for thinking that a few men selected in London would perhaps leaven the whole lump so as to render his task in the future some- what easier, establish a healthier constitution in his department, and secure for the Japanese good value for their money. These ends were certainly attained, though I will leave it to those specially interested to say in what measure the services of the recruits of I873—4 contributed to secure them. YOA OAAA/A AAVO KOA E. If On the second day we had a tramp through to Osaka, twenty miles, of which we rode four or five on a ballast engine. We crossed two considerable rivers by the railway bridges, already completed and wanting only the rails; and a third river we passed by boat, the bridge being yet unfinished. What with calling in upon three several engineers on the way, as in duty bound, and discussing with each of them the future possibilities of railway work, we found it falling dark as we arrived at the wilderness that was all yet achieved of Osaka station ; but one of our party who had left England a few weeks earlier than ourselves, and had already paid a flying visit to Osaka, piloted us down to the foreign settlement at Kawaguchi (the word signi- fies river-mouth, but does not suggest the fact that the river Yodo has two mouths, neither of which are near the settlement), and then we fetched the French hotel. The landlord of this establishment did not show, except by his substitute, a Chinese steward, who gave us some dinner, as to which I only remember that it was very bad, or there would not have been enough of it. Then we started in search of the Osaka club, traversing the settlement two or three times (which did not involve any great amount of pedestrianism) before we hit upon the right place. So far as we could judge by the uncertain light of the oil lamps, Kawaguchi appeared to consist chiefly of new roads and vacant lots, the houses that were then in existence having all their back premises in front, and no fronts anywhere. How- ever, we made ourselves free of the club, by the simple process of putting our cards in the rack, and fell to I 2 AEZGAZ" YAAAES IN 9AAAAV. billiards. One member of the club looked in at the door, in the course of the evening, but he didn't stop ; and we Soon tired of our game, and returned to the hotel, to find sound sleep in our barely furnished chambers. After a hasty breakfast (for there was no temptation to linger Over it), and payment of an enormous bill, we returned to Kobe in two steamers, dividing our party of four impartially between the rival boats. I had selected the larger one, which had a deck-cabin and was not crowded, and we were the first to stir up the mud of the dirty river and scoop our way down to Temposan, the western mouth; but here the other Steamer, a cranky little screw, whose skipper had Craftily followed us down the groove we had excavated, gave us the go-by and disappeared in a cloud of Smoke, making a noise that surely advertised to the whole of Osaka, Kobe, and the surrounding country, when she was underway, and that by its cessation made the hills aware when she stopped. Our comfortable paddle-boat had economical engines and a cynical owner-captain who positively snorted at us when we asked him if he could not hurry up a littlé. He said he only took passengers who weren't in a hurry, because he didn’t Care to burn coal ; and further gave us to understand that he lived on board his boat, and his dinner would be ready quite irrespective of the time of arrival at Kobe. This worthy is, I believe, still living in his floating home, which he removed to China when the Kobe-Osaka Railway was opened. He informed us that On one occasion he had carried the Director, the Engineer- YOA OAHAMA AAWD ATO BAE. I 3 in-chief, and the Chief Commissioner; and had covered them with confusion by asking firstly, what a railway was wanted for, and secondly, what they would take to delay the opening for another year—but could get no satisfactory answer from any of them. I was after- wards told by one of the above dignitaries, that the skipper was asked how much he was prepared to put down, and that the unsatisfactory issue of the negocia- tion was thereupon inevitable. - We did arrive at Kobe in time for tiffin, much to the disappointment of the skipper, who had hoped that we should lunch with him, and had, I believe, shut off steam with this hospitable intention ; but the wind followed fair abaft and was too strong for him. We found the Chief Assistant-Engineer, who was charged to facilitate our exit from the settlements, always ready to make an appointment for the trans- ction of business, but always unable to keep it. He was acting agent, acting store-keeper, acting locomotive superintendent, and a few other things; and was further engaged during great part of his day in mollifying the wrath of every individual member of the staff under lim. If any man, from an engine-driver to a resident engineer, had a spare half hour, he always looked up the Chief Assistant-Engineer and Complained of some- thing. If eligible, he was thereupon taken round to the club; if not, he was promised special mention when the next general rise of wages was setting in. As, about the time we were in Kobe, two engineers were engaged in setting out the line from Osaka to Kiyoto, and they of course had their share of complaints to I4 EIGHT YEARS IN }APAN. make, the Chief Assistant-Engineer used to meet them at Osaka (where, as above mentioned, there was a club), and this made it additionally difficult for us to get at him. At last, however, after about ten days in Kobe, we succeeded in getting to business; and, with his assist- ance, drew up a list of such articles as we required, and the department was prepared to furnish. As for our living and feeding, he gave us to understand that all we had to do was to make ourselves comfortable, and the native officials would get us anything in reason that we wanted ; and referred us to the regulations, which set forth that, while we were living in the settlements, unprovided with quarters, we were entitled to so much a day as allowances to cover all our expenses; but when in the interior of the country, we were to receive half allowance, to pay for whatever we were obliged to have from the settlements, and that furnished quarters and such food as was obtainable in the district would be sup- plied to us. In former times, he said, some foreigners in Japanese service had insisted upon being supplied with champagne and other luxuries at departmental cost ; so that it had been thought better to give the half allowance, and let us buy for Ourselves such exotic comforts as we required ; the propriety of which course was obvious. So we made out our requisitions in accordance with the official scale ; but as some few days—or weeks, or more—might be required in order to execute the requi- sitions properly (for which our Kobe experience had prepared us), we did not propose to wait, but resolved YOKOHAMA A/V/O A. O.B.E. I 5 to go on and make a start, hoping to make. Ourselves comfortable afterwards; and accordingly set to work to concentrate our personal belongings, get instruments and tools packed, and prepare to rough it generally. The absolute folly of leaving Christmas behind us was eloquently set forth by our Kobe friends, who pre- dicted all manner of ill-luck for us if we started before the New Year ; but we had lost quite time enough already, and set off by steamer for Osaka, on the 23rd December, to be lost, as we were assured, in the wilds, for the people who went away from the settlements might of course (though they never did) come out at the other side, but returned never !. As, however, the farthest point to which we were bound was distant only a hundred and thirty miles, or thereabouts, from the Kobe club, and it was stated on good authority that people lived more or less all along the way—on both sides of the road, so to speak—we were ready to back Our luck with that hardened effrontery, born of experience, which is cultivated by the race of engineers. We did not, however, leave Kobe in quite the same frame of mind as we started in from Yokohama. I have never been quite able to account for the different impres- sions the two places produce upon a large number of people. Except that Yokohama is about five times the size of Kobe, there appears to be no great contrast between them in essentials. Each has its business quarter, its villas on the hill, its native town and har- bour. Yokohama, though it has not within a half-hour's walk the mountains that have such a charm for pedes- trians or lovers of scenery at Kobe, is within easy travel- I6 FIGHT YEARS IN }APAN. ling distance of some lovely hill country; Kobe, though it has not the advantage of propinquity to the metropolis, is nevertheless entitled to rejoice in the neighbourhood of Osaka and Kiyoto, together at least equal in interest to Tökiyö. Society is pretty much the same in both places, Kobe having the advantage that its numbers will not support quite as many distinct cliques as flourish in the larger settlement. Both are hideous for three or four months in the year by reason of the tea-firing industry that crams the godowns with dirty and per- spiring women of the lowest class, and defiles the streets with their wretched children, and the neighbour- hood for miles around with both, morning and evening, as they tramp to and from their squalid villages. In both the simple children of nature—to wit, sailors ashore, policemen craftily concealed behind sticks and spectacles, and Chinamen patiently abiding the day when they may have amassed enough dollars for their ease at home—form a large proportion of the visible inhabitants ; in both the flags of all nations fly from consular masts, and missionaries Swarm and multiply in godly contentment. And yet I have never found among the people who are equally acquainted with both places, even a respectable minority who did not profess to prefer the smaller settlement and there are many who, like myself, could, on good cause shown, live and die in Kobe, who never perhaps appreciated Yokohama at its worth, never tried to like it or its belongings and surroundings, never rejoiced to see it before them or grieved when they left it, and who, to all intents and purposes, are as much strangers in the most important WOA OAZAMA AAVZ) A OAXAZ. I7 foreign settlement of Japan, as if they had never been Inear it. In my own case, I attribute a permanent prejudice, which I confess with sorrow, to the fact that I arrived in Yokohama to find I had to go farther for a welcome, and that I never had anything more to do with the place than was absolutely necessary, which was very little. But for all that I know that there are many good people, in the widest sense of the word, to be found there, and many good things are done therein. So long may it prosper 18 EZGAT YEARS IN 9AAAA. CHAPTER II. JOURNEY UP COUNTRY. AT OSAKA, our personal baggage was put on board a yana-buné (roof-boat) a sort of long flat-bottomed barge, covered in for about half its length ; the sides and ends of this central cabin being provided with sliding shutters running in grooves above and below, so that the whole could be closed in or thrown open for half the width of each pair of shutters at pleasure. The roof of the cabin is made almost flat, and in fine weather is a pleasanter place than the inside, the height being less than four feet. In front of the cabin is a space for baggage, etc., and astern is another place for the crew, when steering or sculling, cooking their rice, or taking their smoke. Going up stream the work is mostly towing, a long rope attached to the tow-post in front of the cabin being hauled on by the majority of the crew, who slip into loops of flat webbing connected with the main rope by subsidiary cords. A steersman remains in the boat, and when the channel and tow-path leave one side of the river for the other, he brings the boat to the bank, and the towing party jump on to the roof of the cabin, and joðRAVE Y UP COUNTRY. IQ taking to their “rö,” or bent sculls, on either side of the after part, propel the boat to the opposite bank, where they clamber up the slope and recommence towing. All along the inside of the river banks where the main channel washes them, protecting groynes of piling pro- ject into the stream, and the rush of the water off the ends of these groynes against the side of the boat as they are passed successively, adds to rather than detracts from the monotony of the proceeding. Generally these piles are interlaced with bamboo openwork, filled in with stones, and called “ja-kago,” or gravel baskets; but in some places the natives take advantage of the flow of the stream to help drive the piles, leaving them some- what loose, so that they rock or vibrate perceptibly in the rush of water, and so penetrate and sink into the sandy bed—at least they say so—and the effect upon an observer of a long succession of these groynes with their unsteady piles is rather ghostly. About three miles an hour up stream is a fair rate of progress ; and as all navigable rivers are subject to con- siderable alterations of level in times of flood, and are consequently enclosed with high earthen banks, frequently planted with bamboo, the view is monotonous, and the demand upon the traveller's patience is considerable. We had to journey up the river from Osaka to Füshimi, about thirty miles, in the yana-buné; but after stowing the boat, we sent it to the upper end of the city to wait for us, for we were bound to partake of a parting dinner with some of the staff. After a last look round the city, as we thought, we found our way to the railway quarters hard by the station, 2G) EIGHT YEARS IN 5APAN. and were greeted by a party of some dozen engineers and others, collected in our honour. As might be ex- pected, we found some little difficulty in getting away from our kindly entertainers; but at last made a late start, in jinrikishas towards the landing-place, where the boat was awaiting us, as we fondly hoped. An aristo- cratic young interpreter in waiting acted as our guide; and we reached the river, in the neighbourhood of the Mint, in due course—but there was no boat to be found! We drew up under the lee of a high wall to get out of the bitter wind, and puffed heavily at our pipes, while the interpreter ran round to all the tea-houses in the vicinity, finding, no doubt to his great surprise, that the people had given us up for the night, and gone in for a grand Supplementary and final spree, in Japanese fashion. We didn't feel inclined to await the recovery of the party, so we made tracks for the French Hotel ; that is, our interpreter instructed the jinrikisha drawers to take us there, and promptly disappeared, to join his friends in their dissipation, we concluded. We were first hauled in our go-carts to the place where the French Hotel had been once upon a time, and finally, by a combination of hard swearing and good luck, we reached the settlement of Kawaguchi, and knocked up the Chinese steward Óf the French Hotel, to his intense disgust ; but the night was too cold for us to stand upon ceremony, and after swallowing doses of something wet and warm, we turned into bed. And the evening and the morning were the first day. . . . . . . I was up at daybreak, trying stratagems to circumvent our evasive friends, leaving my companion to persuade jo URNAEY UP COUNTRY. 2I his particularly obtrusive and uncompromising interior arrangements, which took their tone from various tropical experiences, to allow him to make a breakfast. About ten o'clock, after raising a great dust and many Small grins, throughout the railway offices, I managed to Collect the party, and we got into our boat, rejoicing to find our belongings safe. Then we had another wait while provisions for our sustenance on the river journey were being put on board, a very lengthy proceeding that seemed to require the presence of the whole female population of the neighbourhood. At last we started, passing in front of the Imperial Mint, a fine building with a Colonnade, and surrounded by bungalows and barracks, with a river-wall and terrace in front : and almost opposite to the old castle of the Shogun, or the remains thereof, unfortunately not very well seen from the river itself. It was full noon when we lost sight of Osaka, and entered upon the dreariness of the adverse stream, dividing our time between Smoking, attempting to con- verse with our interpreter and through him with the cadets, whom we now saw for the first time by daylight, and eating as much rice as our yet undeveloped taste for Japanese condiments permitted. Sleeping we also tried as the afternoon wore on : but as the channel was tortuous, every ten minutes or so the whole strength of the towing party descended, not like angels, on to the roof over our heads, and we soon gave that up. Night fell as we put in to Hashimoto, a long village some six miles short of our destination. Here we took in more provisions, and sent on one of the cadets 22 A/GAT YEARS ZAV 9.4AAAW. by road to Füshimi to prepare for our reception there. Then onward we went in our boat through the darkness of the December night—Christmas Eve, too !—hearing only the ripple of the water and at intervals the shouts of boatmen as some downward-bound craft passed us, and the crews exchanged verbal sketches of each others' family history, pretty much as cabmen do in London streets— at least so it seemed to us. At last we began to see lights on the banks, and to pass under bridges, and about ten o'clock came to a mooring by a stone landing- place. . Here we found two old ladies with paper lanterns— “cho-chin’ we afterwards learnt to call them (the lanterns, that is ; the ladies were simply frumps)—and were conducted with many bows, a large proportion of which were either missed in the dark or spoilt by Our every now and then finding that we had bumped against a bent frump unexpectedly, to a tea-house, where we found a table and two chairs. We sat down upon the chairs promptly, and broke them both—for at that time Japanese imitations of foreign furniture were not creditable to native cunning—and then got our port- manteaus and sat upon those. In due time came a sumptuous repast of fish, rice, and saké—the native brew —and the two old ladies fed us, in pity of our awkward- ness, with the chopsticks; and then followed beds on the floor, in which the two old ladies tucked us up, and left us, in pity of Our sleepiness. Up betimes next morning, we manoeuvred shiver- ingly with buckets in the verandah, and I had some more fish, regardless of the entreaties of my liver- 500RAVEY UP Covyzzy. 23 conscious friend ; and then we entered jinrikishas and started for Kiyoto, the bitter frosty air raising our spirits if it nipped our extremities, till the sun got well up and warmed us. Füshimi is a great trading place, the port, as it may be called, of the western capital Sai-kiyö, otherwise called (upon maps) Miakö, in common parlance Kiyoto, elegantly Kamigata, and, for aught I know, half a dozen other names. It is a poor sort of place in Japan that hasn't two or three, and some of these may be variously pronounced. Kiyoto itself lies about five to seven miles away from the river, connected therewith by a shallow canal, just capable of floating the market flats that bring provisions and wares into the city. The canal is only about thirty feet wide, and as we went along the road close by we could hardly see the water for the boats, each one in tow of two or three men, and so jammed together that the men must have ceased to take note of separate boats, and given themselves up to general tugging at a floating field of vegetables and tubs, borne on about two inches of water. However, they seemed very happy, made a great noise, and progressed apparently at the rate of five yards in two minutes. I calculated that these must be to-morrow week's fresh vegetables in the Kiyoto market, and rather wondered why some more expeditious mode of transport was not found preferable. Fresh fish in abundance was being carried along the road we ourselves traversed at a fair speed, the coolies trotting as fast as was practicable under a load of two flat baskets, each containing perhaps a quarter of a hundredweight of fish, slung to the ends of a 24. AAGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. flat pole or yoke borne on one shoulder and additionally supported by a stick over the other shoulder and under the yoke. From time to time a whole string of these coolies would stop at a shout from the leading man, hitch their loads forward, put the stick under the centre of the yoke so as to support it from the ground while they changed shoulders, and then, with the stick also shifted over, they started on again. We were crossing a wide cultivated space, with here and there a grove of bamboo, towards a lofty pagoda that rose from amongst the trees in a walled enclosure— the tower of Töji, as I afterwards found out, part of a group of temples at the south-western corner of Kiyoto. Like most Japanese towns, almost invisible unless you come over a rising ground towards them, Kiyoto is, as to its suburbs on three sides, in no way distinguishable from the meanest village ; only the educated eye can after a little time pick out the various groves and temple roofs from a distance. On the far-famed Higashi-yama (eastern-hill), however, parallel to which range at about a mile of interval we were proceeding northwards, we could see piled-up temples and the roofs of many houses; but even these we lost as soon as we reached the streets. We were drawn at a smart trot by our men for a couple of miles before reaching our inn, a comfortable little two-story tea-house, overlooking a wide, open space used as a bleaching ground, but being in reality, as we Soon found out, the bed of the Kamo-gawa (wild-duck river), the pride of Kiyoto. Here we were ministered unto by two pretty little girls, aged about ten years, deft little maidens, a decided 500RNAEY UP COUNTRY. 25 improvement upon the old ladies of Füshimi. It being not yet ten o'clock, we acceded to the suggestion of our interpreter that we should go to the railway offices, and So we walked back two-thirds of the way to Töji, finding Ourselves at last in a large rambling building, looking out upon a fine enclosed garden, with fish-pond, rustic bridges, summer-houses, stone lanterns, etc., but evidently neglected. Here we were regaled with tea, but found no one to receive us; so, in some displeasure, we returned by the way we had come to our tea-house, where we found that the only officials of the department then in Kiyoto had come to call upon us, and were awaiting Our reappearance. This was better; and with the aid of our interpreter, we exchanged courtesies in which the native gentlemen I am sure got much the best of us, and found out that one of the persons present was an experienced surveyor, who had received orders to go forward with us and introduce us to the district. Preparations for a start on the morrow were thereupon entrusted to the native staff; from whom we learnt that we should have to go by road about ten miles eastward, and then take boat on the lake that is called Biwa (the name of a musical instrument, the shape of which is not unlike the general outline of the lake), for the village of Shiótsū, at its extreme northern end—the destined head- quarters of our expedition—being about fifty miles by water. Then we were left alone, and discovered that it was Christmas Day ! We also discovered that the people of the house were so far used to the ways of English visitors of the railway persuasion, that a sort of steak was obtainable ; and 26 A/GAT YEARS IN 9.4 PAM. that the native cuisine was capable of an omelette ; so that, with a fine mullet in addition, we did not come off so badly, and for the rest had we not a travelling stock of beer and whiskey 2 We duly remembered our respective friends at home, on shipboard, and at Kobe ; and retired early to roost as we had to catch the steamer on the lake at eight o'clock next morning, so it was said. We rose earlier than any lark with the slightest sense of self-respect would have done. I ate breakfast for the two, and as soon as my companion announced a glimmering of tone in his constitution off we started, our baggage and attendants being already on the road. The morning was dull and the roads dirty, but we made fair progress, with three men to each jinrikisha, until we left the city behind and began to go up hill ; that is to say, for about three-quarters of a mile. Then we began to form our experiences of a main road of traffic in Japan, under its winter aspect. We had heard of a certain stone tramway that had been laid down, say two hundred years before, on the road between Kiyoto and Otsii, as a great engineering work; and we soon came upon it. To be sure, the surface of the road presented to the eye only mud of various consistencies in different spots, resembling, for instance, ploughed fields, tempered clay for brickmaking, sludge of a tidal river, or the slush that scavengers spoon out of gutters into mudcarts at home, and the average depth of this upper stratum might be roughly taken at a little over a foot ; but now and again as Our perspiring coolies yawed about and slipped hither and thither, a 500RAWE Y UP COUNTRY 27 wheel would descend into space and fetch up with the axle-box on something hard. This was the tramway, and near the brow of the hill, where the stones were bare for a short distance, we saw it. There were two rows of granite blocks, with a deep groove in each row, worn into the stone by innumerable wheels of carts drawn by untold generations of oxen, into which grooves whatsoever found its way left all hope behind. We got out of our vehicles, struggled off the road into the fields, and walked. By the time our men and vehicles overtook us, we were mounting a second rise, after crossing a plain of small extent shut in by hills west, north, and east, those before us being apparently some two thousand feet high in places. Hereabouts the road, which had been looking better lately, relapsed into a state approaching to dissolution, and we were told that a side road over a small pass would be found preferable to the main route. Entering the vehicles again we were dragged at a fair pace along a path only just wide enough for the wheels, through an expanse of fields laid out in steps for irrigation, but now dry and showing the rotting roots of the last crop of rice. Passing through a small village, we reached the foot of the hill, and started to walk up a zigzag path, sometimes in a gorge, sometimes on a spur, through fir woods or scrub, but affording here and there a good view over the plain behind us, and glimpses of higher snow-clad hills to the northward. About eight hundred feet brought us to the summit, by which time we had developed a decided glow ; and venturing here upon wheels again, were in a few minutes 28 A.IGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAV. reduced to a simple state of blind trust in Providence, for we hurtled down a break-neck path, over stones, tree roots, and water channels au maturel, round square corners and acute zigzags, at the rate of ten miles an hour ; and arrived, with hair on end and hearts in Our mouths, in the town of Otsii, shaken and bruised, but unbroken and breathing. On we sped, with many a yell from our rejoicing coolies, who could see the end of their task, and with many a shriek from evasive street-folk, many a stare and ejaculation of “Ah! bikküri-s’töl" (meaning “What a horribly extraordinary person,” but it sounded like an invocation to our ears), till we reached the lake-side and a tea-house with an upstairs verandah and one glass window, within view of the steamer that we were to have caught at eight o'clock—it was now half-past nine. We had yet an hour to wait, devoted to beer and biscuits from our travelling store, before our interpreter announced the steamer was ready to start, and we went on board rejoicing, and fixed ourselves on a couple of chairs on the upper deck, backed by a mass of baggage and sheltered by an awning. The steamer was a side- wheeler, as they say in America, with cabins fore and aft of the machinery, and one small mast—about a forty ton boat, I suppose. We found all our belongings, private and departmental, on board already ; and loosing from the landing-stage, started up the lake against a cold head-wind and choppy sea, if fresh water may be so described. Now as for the first time our party were united, we could count noses. There were— govrwey UP covyzRY. 29 In the first place, six surveying coolies and a coolie- master, all ready for anything, work or villainy. Secondly, two body servants, swindlers of low degree. Thirdly, two cadets, students of English, engineering, and foreign character. 4. Fourthly, an interpreter, head swindler. Fifthly, the experienced native surveyor, concealed within six suits of clothing. { Sixthly, Englishman, weighing fourteen stone, in a Tam o' Shanter, with brown complexion and yellow beard. - Seventhly, Englishman, weighing twelve stone, in a Glengarry, with yellow complexion and brown beard. Of this party, some two or three were distinguished for the possession of a strict conscientiousness, tempered by a sense of humour, and the rest were otherwise distinguished. In addition, should be mentioned Mr. Dick, a liver-and-white pointer, and Mrs. Bella, a black retriever—both, like their masters, brimming with pro- fessional experience. - . The short dull winter's afternoon came to a close before our voyage did ; and all that we saw of the place called Shiotsi that evening was a wooden landing-pier, a dirty street, and the interior of a neat little tea-house, into which we bestowed ourselves with all speed, being utterly cold and hungry. But in due time came supper and a good night's rest—the first on our ground. - Morning revealed to us that we were housed about the middle of a long street of mean-looking houses, close under a wooded hill ; to the north and west was an expanse of rice-fields, wintry and blank. Having 3O A:/GAZ7 VFAAES AV 5AAAAW. breakfasted, we sallied forth to look for a starting point, taking with us the whole strength of the expedi- tion, armed with poles, and pegs, and compasses, binoculars, and SO forth. From the front of the village, the view down the lake is almost shut off by a bold spur from the eastward hills, forming a promontory that converts the northern end of the lake into a sheltered bay some mile long by half that width ; the village lies under the end of a parallel spur. We walked round the shore, passing a large Buddhist temple, and beyond, a small Shintô shrine; and gaining the promontory, ascended by a rough path up a gully to the neck of the ridge. From this point we had a good view down the lake, which gradually widens out from a mile and a half to three or four miles wide at what appeared to be the extremities of the ranges on either side, the eastern shore thence running due south, the western side of the lake trending back behind the hills. The scene was a charming one, spite of the dreariness of the season; the woods that clothed the steep hill-sides were mostly fir, their dark- green contrasting with the bright yellow of the faded grass in the sheltered valleys running far up between the bluffs, and the placid lake reflecting the hill-tops on either hand and the pale blue sky between. Some ten miles away in front of us was a conical island, Benten we were told to call it, though that is the name of the shrine thereon, the island being really called “Chikubu-shima,” and far away down the eastern shore a dark low hill, backed by hazy peaks, was pointed out as the position of the old feudal castle of Hikoné, 900R.NEY UP COONZR Y. 3 I We could now see part of our work. The railway from Kiyoto was intended to pass round the eastern side of the lake along the low ground ; and from the back of the narrow ridge of hills bordering the upper end of the lake on that side, we had to find a route through Shiótsú and northwards to the sea. Turning our eyes to the north, and looking over the land-locked bay and the village, the rapidly narrowing valley of a small river, and a line of high road crowded with carts, seemed to lead us up into another range of hills, white with snow, and forming the “divide” between the lake and the sea. So we had to start with about fifteen miles of hill work with one intermediate fixed point, Shiótsú, through which our line was to run, connecting the fertile plain east of the lake with the sea-coast. As, however, we had set our faces Southward to start with, we moved on down the steep winding path that conducted us to another and a smaller village, with a tiny harbour inside a stone pier, and a sort of rude wharf in front of a few poor cottages. Temple and shrine of course were there, the first conspicuous by its lofty spreading roof, and the Second nestling in its grove of tall firs. Then we rose again, by a path sloping diagonally upwards from the shore to the ridge, gaining the summit in less than a mile, and dipping down again sharply into the plain behind the hill; but we stopped at the highest point, looking over a flat expanse of rice- field and a winding river, to a large village under the hills bounding the plain on the far side. Then we turned Our faces homeward again, circumambulated the two bays and intervening promontory by a rough path 32 A/GAT. YEARS IN 9AAAAW. along the rocky feet of the bluffs, and reached our tea- house rather leg-weary, for we were out of form for walking, but hungry and in good spirits, having realized that we had before us interesting work. The afternoon was devoted to a stroll with dogs and guns round the western side of the lake, while the native staff were busy arranging for a move northward on the morrow. Early on the 28th we left Shiótsū behind us, and tramped the northward road through the valley, passing two or three farming villages. We met strings of carts drawn by men, women, and children, and conveying an odorous substance—fish manure we made it out to be— packed in bags of rice straw, and destined to fertilize the soil round the shores of the lake. Gradually the valley narrowed till the bare rice-fields became a mere strip between the road and the stream, the rising grounds up to the steeper hills being terraced out as if for irrigation, but growing at this time only patches of green vegetables and winter corn. # At every step the road grew steeper; to the engi- neering eye it was plain that even to keep the valley a railway would have to be on a stiff incline, while all around the hills drew in and pushed the road and stream from one side to the other, with here and there rocky cliffs and scarps of highly inclined shales. About five miles from Shiótsú, we recognized the “cross roads” mentioned in our instructions, for the northern road. forked, while another track came in from the left over the hill. Taking the right-hand road from the fork, we ascended through a rough gorge for about a mile, when we found the hills recede, and leave a plain about JOURNEY UP COUNTRY. 33 half a mile wide and nearly level ; on either side the wooded slopes rose to a couple of thousand feet, at a guess, but so broken up with cross valleys and bold spurs, that it was difficult to estimate which of the many peaks around might be the highest. On the edge of the little plain was a large rambling farmhouse, with walled grounds, presenting a semi-forti- fied appearance, that was quite appropriate to so lonely a place; but we were told that it was only a “honjin,” or resting-place for travelling magnates. Passing this, the road dipped away between boldly terraced slopes into a rough, winding valley, the hills also appearing to gain in height till the scenery assumed a wild for- bidding character; and the road, which, although almost disused, was still called the new road—“Shindö,” became very bad, with neglected bridges barely affording safe transit over the cross ravines, or the windings of the main stream, that began to assume respectable dimen- sions within a mile or two, full of clear rushing water from off the granite slopes on either side. The fall was very sharp down this gorge, till a larger stream came tumbling in from the right, and with it a road apparently more frequented. Then the valley widened out, and took a long turn round a steep bluff to the left; and with Our faces set due west, we sighted a large extent of cul- tivable ground, roofs, groves, and the mouth of another valley opening northwards, and found ourselves at Hikida, where the other fork of the road from Shiótsú rejoined, coming Over a much higher summit on a route considerably shorter. We were quite ready for a rest and a feed, for it was fully three o'clock, as we had loitered D 34. F/G#7 VEARS IN 5A PAN. on the road, interested by the scenery and the promised difficulties of our surveying work. Our native staff, who had been following us mourn- fully on the tramp till we sighted Hikida, when they broke and ran for the inn and its delights, were ready as soon as we had stoked up ; and on emerging from the tea-house we were introduced to a couple of native officials, who had been sent out from the town of Tsuruga by the governor of that place to escort us in. They were two middle-aged, hardy looking men, with the usual array of swords, barely concealed under heavy cloaks, and carried long staves, the more peaceful mark of authority. After a few courtesies that seemed indispensable, we proceeded on our way, tramping sturdily along a good road, on which we met several jinrikishas—a sign of some sort of progress in the district we were approaching. About three miles down a pretty valley, beside the winding rushing river, brought us to the plain, and in sight of a long dark fir wood stretching away to the left, and to the right the roofs of a large town lying under a wood-clad hill. This was Tsuruga, our destination; and we reached it in the dusk, passing through squalid-looking streets, over one or two bridges, and into a courtyard, at one side of which was a large shrine, and on the other a neat build- ing, in front of which our escort left us. We proceeded to make ourselves at home, our hosts being a set of priests of a very inquisitive persuasion. By the opening of our travelling canteen their attention was diverted to the servants' room till after dinner, when, with pipes alight, we felt more sociable, and tried to ŞOURNEY UP COUNTRY 35 teach them cribbage. One of them, probably the rising genius of the place, learnt to detect what he called “Snob '' after a very little practice, and every successful shot of his was hailed with shouts of applause from his Superiors. When bedtime came, we confided the cards to his care, and so got rid of the godly crew, who retired to discover “Snob" till they were satisfied. We were gratified next morning by a visit from the governor, who accompanied us out to the shore, and thence to what it appeared had already been fixed upon as the site of the station, somewhere west of the town, in a large sandy tract overgrown with the fir wood we had seen in the distance the previous afternoon. As this was very much like fixing upon the wide world as the scene of action, we were not much helped by the worthy governor's information. Tsuruga is situated at the extremity of a deep indentation in the coast-line, forming a fine bay some ten miles long from north to south, and perhaps three to five miles wide, but of very irregular shape. Lofty hills surround it, coming steep down into the water at all the advanced bluffs, but with Sandy strands and fishing villages in between. Our survey was to end, for present purposes, at the South-west corner of the bay, a future extension being contemplated to a sheltered roadstead under the lee of the highest of the western hills. At the request of our native staff, who had been unwillingly dragged away from their homes in Osaka at the end of the year, we remained three or four days in Tsuruga, it being a far more eligible place for merry- 36 A/GAT YEARS MAW 9APAN. making than Shiótsú. The last two days of the year are always devoted in Japan to settling up one's affairs, and this sometimes means serious business. As one of my interpreters in after days explained, “It is very sad for poor people,”—here he laughed gaily;-“they throw themselves into river or well, or die hanging down from tree,_and there are many robbers who wish to get money.” However this may be, once the 31st of December is past, universal jollity seems to reign, and visiting, kite-flying, and battledore and shuttlecock Occupy old and young of both sexes. I confess we found it dull, though we cruised about the bay, and went after such game as the country afforded, and were glad when the day came on which we had decided to leave Tsuruga and its delights. We returned to Shiótsú over the short route between Hikida and the “cross roads,” the route lying south-west from Hikida about a mile, up a rapidly rising valley between high hills, when the road turns into a narrow and tortuous gorge, and a very steep pull up a zigzag road conducts to the summit. A good view is obtainable to the westward over the valley we had left, with its foaming stream and winding road, leading to another port on the lake—Kaidzu, at the bottom of the deep bight behind Benten. The road was crowded with pack-horses, mostly carrying the same Odoriferous load we had already made acquaintance with, each horse led by a man, who also carried a sack on his back and appeared to like it. About a mile south of the Summit we came to a place where the loads were shifted, the pack-horses returning jourAVE Y &P CodyTRY. 37 to Tsuruga, and the load going forward upon two- wheeled trucks. These are propelled in the following manner:—A-head go the mother and the eldest son, hauling on ropes; the father of the family, or the strongest of the lot at any rate, pushes upon a transverse bar fixed to the front of the frame ; and behind small boys and girls shove lustily at the truck, the sacks, or wherever they can lay a hand, all working like steam- engines and looking as hard as nails. The six miles of road from this place, Hükasaka, take it out of the whole party, however, before they get through, for the road is a vile one, constructed on the fine old native fashion, of Stones of any shapes and sizes that can be picked up handy, chucked into the worst of the pre-existing holes, and levelled with loose earth and sand. Such a road is a succession of holes from one end to the other, separated only by the largest stones, Over which the wheels have to be lifted, hauled, twisted, wrenched, slewed, or otherwise forced every yard of the way. The wheels are not above two inches wide in the rim, so wherever there is a gap down they go and jam, till, by swaying the whole truck bodily from side to side, the stones are forced apart, leaving a new hole for the next comer. The amount of work required on a level road of this description, is rather more than double what it would be on a rough up-hill road of any other kind. To go up-hill with a load is almost impracticable ; but here the bulk of the traffic is all down-hill, and goods going north are carried on pack-horses, the trucks going up from Shiótsú light. We had left instructions at Shiótsū for the people to 38 AZGHZ YEARS IN }APAN. look up suitable quarters for us, and on Our return were at once inducted into a portion of the priests' house adjoining the Buddhist temple; a poor place indeed, but the best to be found, having a look-Out upon a neat little private garden under the hill. Here we rigged up an American stove, and got some glass inserted into the sliding shutters, and made Out for a while, starting Our survey work by running base lines Southward from Shiótsú. * Our friend the experienced native sul vey U1 gave us up as soon as we set to work, and returned to Kiyoto. He had not been of much assistance to us, as he was not an accomplished linguist, and did not seem on good terms with the interpreter. We used to speculate upon his reason for wearing so many suits of clothes, making out at last that it must be for the sake of the sleeve- pockets, in which he carried a specimen of every known description of instrument for measuring distances and taking observations. Had we travelled much at night we should have had no hesitation in asking him for a celestial globe, a fifteen-inch refracting astronomical telescope, or an oxy-hydrogen illuminating apparatus. He would merely have sighed, twisted himself into another pocket or two, and produced the article re- quired. ( 39 ) CHAPTER III. FIRST YEAR’s WORK : TSURUGA, SHIOTSú, AND NAGAHAMA (1874). NOW that we were actually at work, a minute chronicle of our daily life became out of the question. When one is travelling, the regular notes are easily made, and may be worth keeping—names of places, heights of barometer and thermometer, distances, times, weather, obstacles, and SO on ; but when stationary, such details as have to be recorded become little more interesting than a book of logarithms—useful for reference On occasion, but mere weariness in compilation and unattractive, to Say the least, to the general reader. To us, the field work we had to do was interesting in itself, though it would be too much to hope that the arcana of mountain surveying could by any explanation be so unfolded to those not already educated in professional technicalities, as to make plain our reasons for rejoicing at the accom- plishment of the successive steps, by which we reduced to order and planned upon paper the main ridges, valleys, gullies, obstacles, and other features of the country, and produced a first proposal for a route, to be laid before our Chief in due course. 4O A3/GAZ7" VFAA'S MAV 3APAAV. We were three after the middle. of January ; and while I remain always I, it is convenient to have done with descriptive epithets, and call my first companion simply Tom, and the new-comer James. Other Toms and Jameses indeed there were, but not of my party, in the season of 1874; so let that pass. We were all three pretty much of an age, just terminating our lusty youth. Tom, the absolute senior among us, had seen many lands, and, as he used to say himself, if all he had seen and done were put into a book, no one would believe it. James had experience of India and Australia, while I had the advantage of no previous work abroad. When James arrived from the settlement, he handed me a bundle of papers from the Chief Assistant- Engineer, and we then perceived how ingeniously we had been sold by our friends at head-quarters. Our arrangements for comfort up country had all been made under the regulations in force for 1873, no hint of any alteration as being contemplated reaching us. But it had been decided that from the beginning of 1874, that is when we were safely out of sight, the department would cease to supply anything for private use, except an allowance in money, reducible if we stopped more than fourteen days in any one place. So the Chief Assistant gave me to understand that the articles ordered by the department for our use had been countermanded, and we might make our own arrange- ments for the future. When I explained this to Tom—James, who knew it all before starting, but had taken no steps in the matter without consulting me, grinning Sardonically the AP/AE,ST YEAA”.S. WOA’A. 4. I while—we were seated gingerly upon Japanese-made chairs on either side of our most ambitious piece of furniture; it had been a washing-stand, but as we affected tubs and buckets for all ablutionary purposes, we had filled in the recess designed for the basin, and made a table of it. As the horrid truth came home to us, our countenances passed through the various phases of amazement, indignation, and so on, into a final ex- pression of positive admiration for the practical nature of the joke, and we burst into a roar of laughter that shook Our chairs into spillikens, and as we sat amid their ruins on the mats, rattled the loose board in the top of the table out of its bearings. It was really like a piece of harlequinade, in which we represented the unsuspecting policemen, the amiable shopkeeper, or the people intent only upon business; and the clown, pantaloon, and harlequin were played by—bigwigs too awful to be indicated here. Of course our only resource was to request the authorities at Kobe to forward us the things we required, and without which, but for our noble en- thusiasm for work, we had better not have started ; and pending their arrival, we proceeded to finish off our southern base lines and start north, working our way steadily through to Tsuruga, and taking levels as we went. The work was tedious, owing to the roughness of the ground, the frequent falls of snow, the amount of wood-cutting necessary, and the obligation of accuracy, this being the basis of the future permanent work. By the end of March we had all ready for the Chief's first inspection. 42 A/GAT YEARS IN JAAAAW. Our native staff afforded us considerable amusement. With some additions to the force, by whom James had been accompanied up country, we had now two inter- preters, three Cadets, and two paymasters—the latter being by far the most important men of the expedition, and reputed, as we found afterwards, to be the real railway makers, so many coolies and foreigners being employed in the rough outdoor work of the job under their orders. Tom and I had of course no knowledge of the native tongue to start with, though we soon picked up enough to enable us to get along very well with those of our men who did not happen to know any English. They were all wonderfully quick at seizing the idea of any operation that had to be carried out, and a mere hint, conveyed, perhaps, in the One in- telligible word of a halting sentence, set them off, with eager childlike glee, to cut down trees, set up poles, and manoeuvre with chains and staves. They kept their sharp black eyes fixed upon us with breathless interest, as we sat sometimes on the sunny side of a bank, making calculations that resulted in the circumventing of physical obstacles, and resumption of the right path beyond ; and when from some commanding elevation we could look back over the way we had come, and prove our work right, a general broad grin of Satisfaction and chorus of “Naruhodo!” showed their sympathy and admiration. The great difficulty we found in the language, was the proper use of verbs ; but here an undoubted assistance was found in the auxiliary polite termination “mas’,” which should not, in strict pro- priety, be used in giving orders to persons of decidedly AºA2S7" YAZAA”.S. WOA’A. 43 inferior class, and no doubt accounted for many con- temptuous smiles on the generally impassive coun- tenances of those superior persons, the interpreters, when we happened to dispense with their intervention. The use of the said “mas’,” however, had the great advantage of enabling the men to distinguish when we meant to use a verb, which, of course, implied that something was to be done, nine times out of ten ; in fact, we generally made the verb, of which we were none too certain, as in- distinct as possible, and brought in the termination, “mas'!” with great aplomb, whereupon the two or three most intelligent and enterprising men started off to do as many different things, actuated by guesses at what was required ; and the unsuccessful guessers had a good laugh at their own discomfiture, and united in “chaffing ” the men who had hit the right nail on the head. For instance, if we wanted a small tree cut down, or a pole brought a little nearer, or a small quantity of paint applied to the top of a stake—three ideas of “small ” that should properly be expressed by altogether different words in Japanese—the usual formula was, “Hoi! chiisai (pronounced cheese-eye) mumble-mumble- hum-hum-mas'!” and a wave of the hand, or a glance of the eye, or a preliminary handling of an instrument, gave an additional hint, that nearly always brought about the desired result, in considerably less time than it would have taken to explain in English to an interpreter what was wanted, and get him to pass it on, with all his own misconceptions, to one of the men. Oh, those verbs how we used to sweat at them, to use a schoolboy term ; and how persistently we found our- 44 F/G//7 YEARS IN 5’APAN. selves telling people to go when we wanted some one to come, and to run when standing still like grim death was required In my young days I used to flatter myself that I was quick at languages ; the result, how- ever, of taking up a Japanese grammar or vocabulary was generally prompt slumber ; and in the hot season I used to invoke nature's sweet restorer, otherwise a stranger, by this simple process, and might have been discovered at the proper time and in the proper place, by any one who should intrude upon my privacy, under a mosquito net, with a book on the floor beside me, and a heavenly smile upon my countenance, murmuring in grateful dreams the names of Satow or Aston, beloved while yet unknown in the flesh. Perhaps the greatest confusion of ideas we achieved was when we tried to give to a cadet who understood but little English, with the aid of an interpreter who understood very little more, some account of the steps by which an intricate calculation was brought to yield up its due result. Then we enjoyed the satisfaction of finding that the Japanese language was as poor in the way of expressions suitable to the terms of such an operation, as we were in respect of verbs in the native lingo. Dimensions, angles, lines, and planes all became mixed, like an approaching nightmare, and many a hopeless fog did these hapless cadets get into in the morning and wander in all the rest of the day. I believe that a suspicion entered the minds of some of our Japanese friends that we used sometimes to begin a calculation, and excite their curiosity, about lunch time, for the purpose of leaving them in the A/ACSZ" VAAA”.S. WORA. 45 lurch, after attempted explanation, while we craftily went about our own devices, with an eye to pheasants. The facts, however, did not justify their suspicions, as Bret Harte puts it, “to any great extent,” for pheasants pair very early in Japan; at the best of times in a thickly wooded country they are difficult to get at ; and for my own part—well, I'm a very bad shot. We had a little establishment, house, office, store and so on, not only in Shiótsú, but another also in Hikida, over the range, whereat James was chiefly stationed, Tom being at home at Shiótsú most of his time, and myself alternately with one and the other as the work progressed, the native staff being divided between the two, and the Odd Cadet accompanying me backwards and forwards, generally provided with a very small portmanteau containing his home garments —for in the field they came out, like ourselves, in long boots, short jackets, and Scotch caps complete, and a very large brass-bound box, which he said was “finance.” The interior of the said box was never visible within the scope of my observation ; but as we had our Own sins to answer for, it was perhaps just as well we never penetrated this mystery. Our house at Shiótsú was very retired; but at Hikida we were in the main street of the village, a place about half the size of Shiótsú. At each station was to be found a glazed window, a drawing-table and a copying- press, and a barrel of beer; and the boys had instructions, whenever anybody came in from the field, to bring a long tumbler, fill it from the barrel, and place the same upon the table without asking any foolish questions 46 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. or wasting time in preliminaries. In consequence of Tom taking unto himself a wife, and bringing her up country to preside over the district, the office arrange- ments were removed to a separate room on the other side of the temple at Shiótsü ; but at his particular request the barrel was left in the house, as being safer under his eye. - Early in April our Chief came up from Kobe, and inspected all the preliminary work; finally authorizing me to Stake Out a permanent centre line, with maximum gradients and minimum curves, uniform with the general characteristics of a system of railways already roughly blocked out for the whole of central Japan. This gave us what was needed to start us upon the actual work of ranging out the line over hill and dale. At the same time he sanctioned Tom's matrimonial visit to Tökiyö, and announced that he was going to send me another assistant, and that I was to study about ten miles of the low ground south of my previous limits, and set about the line through there. As Tom had a few days to spare before he started down country, and felt, as may be supposed, rather restless and unsettled under the circumstances, he and James made an excursion together and ran base lines through the new length, while I started the centre line at the summit of the ridge, where we were to have a tunnel of a mile and a quarter long ; and this point once settled there were of course two ends to work at, irrespective of the line in the plains. Of course in all our preliminary work we had selected the easiest ground to get through upon, running our AAA’.S7 VEAA”.S. WOA’A. 47 main survey lines along the valleys where we could ; but our centre line was necessarily over very much rougher ground. The straight line between the two ends of our main tunnel mounted high on to the wooded ridges; and though the open ends were as low down in the gorges as would clear the water that in storm rushed off the slopes in torrents, our lines could not follow the inclination of the main valley ; for we had to keep an even gradient, while the valleys themselves were of course steep in their upper gorges and less inclined as they approached the low ground ; so that about midway between the main ridge and the plain the railway had to be high up on the shoulders of the transverse spurs, winding round or piercing them, and spanning cross gullies and ravines in many places of a highly precipitous character. Every yard of this ground had to be studied, the contour of each spur and gully reduced to plan and referred to previously ascertained data ; and all this in forest so thick in some places that with thirty woodcutters at work and all preliminaries settled, we frequently could barely make one hundred and fifty yards a day. In the roughest part of this work James bore me company, or carried it forward alone while I was away; and so conscien- tiously did he work it out that when finally I laid the gradient line denoting the levels of the future railway upon the section from the summit to Hikida, I found that in no place was it possible with any advantage to deviate from the theoretical gradient on which we had been working. But we were yet far from this result in the spring of 1874. 48 A/GAT YEARS ZAV 34 PAM, Down in the plains it was another story altogether. Here we had the rivers to deal with as a principal feature, and a Japanese river is no joke. This is owing to the sharp contrast that exists nearly everywhere between hill and plain. On the one hand you may have stretching for miles an expanse of rice-field almost as flat as a table, permeated by a network of irrigation streams, feeders, and outlets, and broken only by a few main rivers with lofty banks; and at the same time, on the Other hand, you may bc within a mile, as the crow flies, of ridges three thousand feet high. In spite of the forest, and as this forest is destroyed, necessarily in a more marked degree year by year, the rains rush down the precipitous slopes and hurtle out of the gorges on- to the plain, laden with debris, boulders or gravel, triturated to all degrees of fineness. If the country were still in a state of primaeval nature, the mouth of every gorge would be marked by a symmetrical mound of this débris, deposited in a fan-shaped heap, where the waters spread out over half the compass to inundate the plain ; but from immemorial times the farmer has been at work. Commencing from small beginnings on the borders of some minor stream, defined by chance features of the land, to level his little field and dig his little channel, leading from above a rude dam between two convenient rocks, he and his fellows have gradually come face to face with the destructive aspect of the rushing stream in flood time; and now, though only about one-sixth of the actual area of the country is under wet cultivation, this has nearly all been wrested and held from the periodical domination of the rain- A/RS7" YEAR”.S. WORK. 49 floods by works of undoubted skill, simple in form though they be. Travellers between Kobe and Osaka, by the railway that near the Kobe end runs along the foot of the hills, are sometimes astonished by the information that the tunnels they pass through are not pierced through hilly ground, but built beneath the river-beds, and that the actual mound above them marks the course, nearly dry for three-fourths of the year, of a mountain torrent banked up upon its own deposit by the labour of the tillers of the adjacent lands. This type repeats itself throughout the Country on various scales of magnitude. Japan, a Country of no great breadth in any part, and highly elevated in the middle districts, possesses but few rivers that can be called navigable even for small craft. They are mostly of the character of torrents and vary in volume according to the season, in many cases from a mere thread of water wandering amid a waste of shingle, to a roaring sea of flood imperilling the lives and property of the Scared and anxious villagers who congregate to watch and strengthen their crumbling embankments. So on the southern division of Our Survey we had our river to tackle, consisting of two forks, issuing from the range of hills that culminate to the Southward in the bold bluff of Ibuki. Both branches have banks elevated from twenty to thirty feet above the plain ; and by uniting they enclose a wedge-shaped district, also watered from the intermediate hills, and badly drained, in a dry season by flood-gates that close against the main river when its waters rise, and when the rivers are in flood by E. 5O FIGHT YEARS MAW 9AAAAW. a long wooden conduit under the bed of the less impor- tant fork, with an outlet to the lake shore distinct from the mouth of the united main streams. The two forks are called Ane and Imoto—the elder and the younger sisters—and are from the hills to their junction almost hidden, in spite of their lofty banks, in fir woods and mulberry plantations. The work of reducing this district to an intelligible plan was not, however, seriously commenced till June, when my third assistant, Charlie, joined me. In April, after Tom's departure, and in the early part of May, I was alone at Shiótsú, having nothing of interest to chronicle except a chance visit from a passing school teacher on his way to Kanasawa on the west coast : and a “matsüri” or religious festival in the village itself; the first I had seen. I was forewarned by a round-robin from the Officials, requesting me to stop at home on the great day, because my bearers who usually trotted up to the ridge with me in a “kago,” a sort of basket-work chair designed to torture those not blessed with flexible knees and ankles, wished to join in the revels. I didn't see the necessity of stopping at home, but trudged it out to the summit that day, to the intense disgust of the staff, and got through a fair day's work, returning to the village about dusk, and finding the place all out of window, so to speak, and the main portion of the popu- lace excited with drink and religious fervour. The “mikoshi,” a sort of ark supposed to contain the god from the village shrine, was reposing in a very lop-sided condition against the front of the biggest inn, while the bearers thereof, being all the able-bodied young men of A ZRST YEAA”.S. WORA. 5 I the village, who had dressed themselves in a kind of uniform tunic of scanty dimensions, were whooping and leaping about the road, and the female part of the com- munity were standing around, clapping their hands and }} ! singing out “Omoshiro !” to signify their joyfulness. I made my way past with the assistance of one of the village elders, who cuffed and implored and objur- gated the noisy crew, and reached home, to find that the priests next door were having a “good time" over a feast of all manner of delicacies, from turnip-tops to cuttlefish, washed down with sakê. As soon as they sighted me strolling in the garden, they haled me in with hospitable violence, and in a quarter of an hour made me quite ill with their cuttlefish and pickles, so that I was glad to retire; and having left my pipe on the edge of the verandah, it was returned to me by a trio of acolytes, whom in revenge I made ill with some Scotch whiskey. * Just as I was recovering sufficiently to sit down to dinner, a hideous row outside made me at first suppose that a general massacre had commenced ; but on going out to see, I found it was only the ark being taken home to the shrine, more lop-sided than ever, and sometimes borne on the shoulders of the coolies, at other times in the ditch with a heap of them on top of it. But the } women-folk were still crying “Omoshiro " and clapping their hands indefatigably, so I supposed it to be all right and went back to my modest fare; and I conclude the deity reached home ultimately, and was tucked up by his ministers. The “kago” bearers were very prayer- ful-kneed next day. 52 A. ZGAT YEARS IN 9AAAAV. A still more solemn function took place a few days afterwards, being no less than the removal, with due reverence, of the remains of a bygone Mikado from their resting-place in the province of Kaga, to Kiyoto, where the tombs of his kind are mostly to be found ; the route being through Tsuruga and Hikida, and thence along the western shores of the lake. James sent me word that he had been requested to stop at home, as it was supposed that the sight of foreigners about the route would not be altogether proper; but I went over early to Hikida and joined him. Just as I arrived, an attempt was being made to close up our office windows looking on the street; but this was successfully resisted. Shortly before the pro- cession was due the head-man of the village called, and remarked that the floor of our room, elevated some eighteen inches above the road, was too high a place for any one to occupy with decency. This was explained to us by the interpreter, who said that all Japanese were Ordered to kneel down, or rather squat, with their hands on the ground, on each side of the road as the procession passed. We were disposed to scoff, but better counsels prevailed, and as the head of the procession entered the village we relieved the anxiety of the head-man, which I believe was genuine on our behalf, by stepping forth from the window into the road ; so that our feet at least were no higher than other people's, with which concession to popular prejudice they had to be satisfied. Tirst came a gang of coolies, Sweeping away the last impurities from the road, which had the day before been mended and strewn with clean sand, and kept clear of AºA2S7 VEAA’’.S. WORA. 53 traffic from the evening. Then came an advanced guard of about a score of soldiers in heavy marching Order; and then the head-man of the village in ceremonial gar- ments, over all the “kami-shimo" (a sort of stiff linen puzzle of skirts and shoulder-wings, which we thought derived its name, equivalent to “tops and bottoms,” from the uniformity of its appearance whether put on rightly, or upside down, or wrong side before), and two Swords of course. Then followed our friend the Governor of Tsuruga, with some of his aides ; then more soldiers; and then about sixty coolies, in new loin-cloths and head-wrappers, bearing the sacred casket. This was a large chest, about ten feet long by four wide and two deep, of what material was not apparent, for it was con- cealed in a green cloth bearing the Imperial crest (the crysanthemum) in yellow. The chest in its cover was lashed to the under side of a stiff fir-pole of a whole tree, quite fifty feet long. In front and behind the casket were cross-pieces, at either end of which were smaller Cross-pieces, put a little on the slant so that each end of these subsidiary pieces could be conveniently borne by two coolies with a small yoke between them, forty-eight carriers in all, and twelve men to change about in turns, the relieved man trotting along light for a few yards at a time before going in at a fresh place. The whole sixty were uttering the guttural cadence, without which it is well known that no progress can be made by a Japanese porter under a load. Behind the casket came about half a dozen awful swells—“kugé,” or court nobles, we were told they were— marching Solemnly along, in flowing silks, green, yellow, 54 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. or purple, each ornamented atop with a peculiar chimney- cowl-shaped cap of black lacquered pasteboard. Then more soldiers ; and then a number of little boys, some in tall hats, dress coats, and white neckties and gloves, and some in gold-braided caps, and frogs and buttons, being the civil and military officers of the party, all in jinrikishas and talking at the tops of their voices. As the casket approached the Spot where we stood, our little interpreter, who had stood irresolute while all around us 34uatted down and bowed their heads, whispered confidentially, “I must obey the law of my country,” and down he went too. James and I were guilty of the bad taste of Standing up, which was, I suppose, set down to the score of Our ignorance, and were above a little relieved as the procession passed by without any notice being taken of us. As the last little boy in a tall hat disappeared into the court of the “honjin,” we sat down to Our table and resumed work on our plans and Sections, and saw no more of the affair. In this month of May we did at last get the means of making ourselves somewhat comfortable in our quarters. Tom, like a wise man, had, in view of his special responsibilities, ordered some furniture from Tökiyö, which arrived about the same time as the Kobe supply; but all the same he had subsequently to pay his share of the demand made upon us by the depart- ment, as from the beginning of the year, an arrange- ment which commended itself to the wisdom of our superiors as being likely to please the Japanese authorities; and I am sure I hope Some one was pleased FIRST YEAR’s WORK. 55 in the matter. We were in the course of events con- vinced that those responsible for railway interests in Japan entertained the hope, that if some small economies were effected in the survey accounts, the government would be encouraged to expend several millions in railway enterprise ; but somehow the connection between the two financial operations was not satisfactorily established, and the petty policy by which we suffered did not achieve success. Graver differences afterwards became added to the original dispute, but I do not propose to weary any reader by enlarging upon this side of our experiences. It has happened to me, on my way to middle age, to meet at one time or another with a great variety of men with grievances, who were very jolly fellows so long as they could be induced to forget them, but intolerable bores otherwise ; and so in preparing this narrative I have carefully confided to a quire of black-edged paper the materials for a chapter on the management and direction of the Railway Department of Japan, just as Mr. Dick separated his views about Charles the First from his other writings, upon good cause shown ; and I propose to Omit the said chapter carefully from this otherwise veracious work. The suspicion with which we were officially regarded had, however, some ludicrous developments during our early times up country. Before leaving Kobe I had arranged with the obliging honorary secretary of the club that we should have some reading out of the library of that noble institution ; and soon after arriving in the district a box was prepared, with lock and key, for the 56 AC/GAT YEARS ZAV 34 PAN. conveyance of books backwards and forwards, a dupli- cate key being sent to the honorary secretary. A marked catalogue was nailed inside the lid of the box, which was duly despatched from Shiótsū, and was no more heard of for several weeks. It was at last delivered to its destination, with the lock broken and the catalogue abstracted, and no satisfactory account could ever be obtained as to where the box had been, or how subjected to such usage; but a hint was afforded that the despatch of an empty box to Kobe was a sort of thing that nobody could understand. Probably the suspected case was taken to Tökiyö for inspection by the Prime Minister and the Council of State, and the Catalogue impounded as evidence in the event of any disaster arising out of the affair, or any scheme generally subversive of the dynasty and government coming to light subsequently. We were well assured that regular reports were forwarded by the native officials attached to the surveying parties, as to the conduct of the foreigners; and very curious documents these must have been. After a time, however, we did succeed in getting rid of the worst of our official surroundings, to the great peace and content- ment of all parties. We were not much troubled by the dreadful rumours that reached us as to the Saga rebellion, which broke out in 1874 ; though the weekly newspaper we received from Tökiyö of course represented the case of all foreigners engaged in the interior, no matter how many hundreds of miles away from the Scene of disorder, as hopeless. Our native staff seemed to look upon the affair as of no importance, and the fate of the defeated AºA'S 7" VAZAA”.S. WORA. 57 and decapitated leader, Yeto Shimpei, as simply a some- what farcical climax to a ridiculous episode. In this trouble, however, the telegraph did good service, by keeping the central government well informed of the actual progress of events, and enabling the expenses of transporting troops and war material to be restricted to absolute requirements. Though for several years afterwards the telegraph department did not return a commercial profit, there can be no doubt that it was worth far more than its cost to the government even thus early. When Tom had returned to work, and made himself at home at Shiótsú, and my new assistant Charlie had joined, the latter and I set to work in the neigh- bourhood of the Ane and Imoto ; and a fine time we had of it, in the early rainy season, amongst the mosquitoes. All through June and July we struggled with the weather and the heat, working out with compass in the morning, and laying down our traverses on paper in the afternoon, till we reduced the chaos of rivers and irrigation streams to shape. When, in the middle of July, the extreme summer heat commenced, we had to take some precautions, and generally rose by lamp- light, getting on to Our Survey-ground as Soon as it was light enough to distinguish an object a hundred yards away. Then we went at it with all our energies till about nine o'clock, when a spell off for claret and water and a biscuit was called, and we resumed Our work, Sweltering under our sun-hats, and getting nasty in our tempers, till noon or sometimes later; when, if there was a practicable road near, we sought our jinri- 58 FZGAZ" YEARS IN JAAAAW. kishas thereon, and if not trudged home as best we might. Well do I remember waiting, some of these summer noons, in the shade of some friendly grove by the road- side, listening anxiously and hungrily for the far-off sound of wheels, and contrasting the almost deathlike stillness around with the Screaming, shrieking, humming and chattering life of the early morning or the hours just preceding Sundown. In the villages, as we passed the open doors or half closed shutters, a glance into the gloom within showed us the wearied labourers lying like corpses on the mats in the dreamless sleep of physical exhaustion ; not a Soul was abroad but the hungry engineers and their jaded followers. But, then, Once under the roof of our temporary home in Some rustic tea-house; once the buckets of well-water had gone hissing over our baked shoulders and throbbing napes; once the invigorating nip of vermouth, or quinine and sherry absorbed, and the smell of the fried ham coming in from the cooking corner—we could appreciate the promise of the pipes and pouches ready in tempting array upon the long chairs in the verandah, and gra- dually realize the glory of renewed strength. Then the placid Smoke in the drowsy afternoon ; the energetic wake up to put the morning's work upon paper; the second Sally forth with towel in hand to some pool under the shadow of the bamboos on the river bank ; the stroll round the temple or out into the fields to the little cemetery; the simple dinner, glass of grog, final pipe, dive under the mosquito-net, and good night ! We were not so badly off, Charlie and I, this sweltering AºA'ST YEAR”.S. WORK. 59 July, and we each thanked the powers above that the other didn't snore. This extreme summer heat, though reaching 92° to 97° Fahr. in the shade—I never knew it any higher by any trustworthy thermometer in a fair situation,-is not nearly so exhausting as the damp heat of June, when the thermometer is Io’ to 15° lower, and the young rice is being planted out in the wet plains, and the mosquitoes that before were only playful become devilishly energetic; when the rains are over they appear to get tired about mid-day. When we were down at Nagahama, the southern end of my district, Charlie and I sometimes foregathered with the staff on the central section of the survey, com- prising the whole of the eastern coast of the lake : and united with Billy and Christopher in trying to make Ourselves happy. This was much facilitated by Billy's “growler,” as it was called—a portable fold-up-and- shut-in-a-box harmonium, which he had brought along to keep up his organ practice with against the time when we should have a railway clergyman. We certainly enlivened Nagahama, and I believe the people of our tea-house made a handsome little fortune one evening by admitting a number of the respectable inhabitants of the quarter into the garden upon which our rooms opened. Of course no attempt at privacy was possible in the hot season ; and the wonderment of the spectators may be imagined at the sight of one perspiring foreigner in pyjamas and a singlet pounding away at a harmonium, while three others reclining in long chairs, and habited in similar 6O A/GAT YEARS ZW 9AAAAV. light costumes, swelled the chorus of “Oh Kafoo- zleum !” now and again absorbing Bass from long tumblers, as some reminiscence of Bach or Handel was evoked from the tortured instrument, to aid the progress “down the red lane” of the aforesaid liquid. In August the Chief gave us a second look in, as he passed by on his way through the interior, intent upon the further track of the great railway system of the future: and he at that time explained that as the progress of Survey between Kiyoto and Ötsú, in the hands of an elder Tom, aided by Edward and Gervaise— all of them but faintly known to us at the far end— had shown the necessity of adopting a steeper “ruling gradient " or rate of inclination for the railway, I was to Communicate with the said Tom, and utilize for the purposes of my own line the incline to which he was working. This made it necessary to alter a great part of my line in the hills, and I accordingly rejoined James, and revised the work : but the diffi- culties near the summit suggested to my mind the great advantages that a further modification of the ruling gradient would enable us to secure; and on Communicating with the Chief I at last received final instructions that were almost equivalent to a carte ôlanche, viz. to use any incline, so that I could do away with the long tunnel at the summit and reduce the work generally. This undid a second time the work already set out; but we had by this time completed the line in the plains, and knew every inch of our ground in the hills, so that by bringing Charlie over to Hikida to strengthen our hands there, we completed the steep and AºA'ST YEAA”.S. VVOA’A. 6I tortuous centre line through the range about the same time that the work about Shiótsú and the head of the lake, a very rough length, was brought to a conclusion. It was none too soon, for early snows began to make our getting about a work of some difficulty in the rugged country; and we were warned by the village folk that the winter would be a severe one, as, in fact, it proved to be. This was not yet, however—we had two fine autumn months to complete our field work in. The monotony of our lives was also a little broken by the visits of two or three men from the settlements, intent upon discover- ing the resources of Tsuruga, there being a rumour that when the railway was opened—a far cry—that place would be made an open port. First came a long- legged and boisterous German, who was known to his compatriots, on account of his seventy-five inches of stature, as “Hugo das Kind,” or sometimes even “Hugo das Rind,” a variation that was supposed to involve the very essence of German humour. He brought letters of introduction to all our party, and stayed a day or two in Hikida for purposes of sport, having a wonderful breech- loader needle-gun by Dreyse, which after loading had to be lashed round with string to make it safe to discharge. He had also a grand pointer “ Knack,” that had a wonderful tooth for snipe—and he instructed us how to play “Rumsch,” a game something like the American —and recounted to us the wildest y “cut-throat euchre : ' romances as to the nature of his dealings with native dignitaries. He had also very advanced views on religious subjects; but James being the son of a clergy- 62 EZGA/T YEARS IN ?A PAN. man, tackled him promptly, and we being two to one fairly shouted him down, and made him retract and apologize, and confess: his inferiority to the ordinary Japanese coolie in respect of practical religion and morality; after which he paid his losings at “Rumsch’’ and went away. The other two men were Kobe magnates, who had started on their trip by shooting a coolie and missing a weasel, whereat they were somewhat depressed. This unlucky comfretemps had detained them some days in Kiyoto, till the local officials had referred to Tökiyö for instructions; but as the victim was only struck by a stray pellet that glanced off a stone, and it was doubtful if his skin had been actually penetrated, —such details are always wrapped in mystery by the Japanese—and as both men were well-known and highly respected residents in the country, they were not sub- jected to any greater inconvenience than the delay, though the one who fired the shot had, I believe, ultimately to make some compensation, of which the coolie probably received about a tenth, the rest being stopped on the way. The question of shooting generally was a source of trouble in those days. The country was fairly stocked with game, though it was difficult to get at ; and we all had a noble ambition to become great shikaris, or maintain an already established reputation in that respect. But in strict theory, shooting was forbidden to the foreigner; and though we applied for and at first obtained from the local authorities licenses similar to those issued to native hunters, they were A/RS7 VEAA’.S. WOACA. 63 revoked in consequence of instructions from the capital. Of course the general subject, like all others about that time debated between the bigwigs in Tökiyö, imported the rights of extra-territoriality, the revision of the treaties, the consequences of offending the legitimate susceptibilities of a people prone to give practical ex- pression to their hatred of the foreigner, and so on, from the rightful tuning of a musical instrument, which involves the age of the moon, to the commercial privileges of the British merchant, which involve everything in the heavens above, the earth beneath and the waters under the earth, it is quite impossible to deal on simple grounds with any problem in Japan. A dreadful circular reached us from the head office in Yokohama, promising consequences of the most heartrending description if we pursued game with a gun “or any other engine"—so that they might be sure of having us somehow ; but we received from our local friends a sort of assurance, that so long as we didn't frighten or annoy the people, or damage their property or crops, the mere practice of shooting would not be made the subject of any special report. In fact, through- out my stay in Japan, though no authorization to pursue game outside the treaty limits (of twenty-five miles from each open port) was ever issued to a foreigner, we were never interfered with vexatiously by local authorities on account of our proceedings with dog and gun ; and the few cases in which injury was actually inflicted upon the country people and their belong- ings, or criticism provoked by inconsiderate behaviour, were treated with what we all had reason to think 64 FIGHT YEARS IN }APAN. moderation and good sense, so far as actual results Went. In the beginning of December our field work was all complete, but we were instructed to remain in the district, and prepare with all care and detail estimates of the cost of constructing our line. So we went into winter quarters at Shiótsú and Hikida, making ourselves as comfortable as we could in our little houses, or rather parts of houses. As Christmas approached we made Some preparations for jollity, and met at Shiótsú, where Mrs. Tom, the lady of the district, presided over our festivities. Snow began to fall in earnest on Christmas Eve; and very soon the village was “all down-stairs,” and the roofs laden with four or five feet of snow that did not begin to melt till February. James and Charlie had a rough time of it when they started to reach their station on the other side of the range, two or three days after Christmas, when the first fall had ceased. They set off about eleven o'clock one morning, and got on well enough for the first couple of miles ; that was to the far end of the next village, for some traffic had opened a track so far. Thence they took to the bed of the river, rough with boulders as it was, and running knee deep with ice-cold water, the high road being quite impracticable. They struggled up the stream till it narrowed to a mere streamlet within steep banks, and then finding that the snow had filled the hollow with one continuous drift, effected a sort of upward dive through the Overhanging masses, and took to the fields, up to their hips in soft Snow. This was, of course, rather tiring work, and the rate of F/RST YEAA”.S. WOAQA. 65 progress about that of a fly in a paste-pot; so that when the afternoon began to close in it was a matter for considerable doubt whether they had not better return to Shiótsú, for they knew the worst of the road back, but what might be in store for them on the ridge they couldn't tell. However, they concluded to push on to Hükasaka, the little hamlet on the south side of the pass, hoping to get there, as they said, by eight o'clock—five miles and a half from Shiótsú Shelter and fire were to be found there, at all events; so they struggled on through the ever-deepening snow, and up the narrowing valley leading to the pass. Providence befriended them, for just as they were reckoning up their remaining powers of progression, and balancing them against the distance to the place of shelter, they encountered a large body of travellers on the downward road—some two hundred sailors and fifty villagers. Now, a sailor on a mountain ridge, with an Ocean of snow around him, is a rather incongruous thing ; but it happens that one of the oldest established industries in Japan is the coasting trade between Osaka and the west coast provinces, through the inland sea and the Straits of Shimo-no-seki, and thence north-easterly to Kaga, Echigo, and beyond. The sailors who navigate the large class of junks so engaged mostly belong to the west coast, and habitually travel overland to Osaka in the winter, make the voyage out from Osaka in the spring, return to Osaka in the summer, and lay up their vessels and go home in time for the harvest, starting afresh for Osaka about the end of the year, when nothing much is doing at home. So this was an early F 66 A.IGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. party for Osaka, who had hired villagers to clear or tread a path for them through the Snow. As soon as our friends met them, the villagers repre- sented to the sailors that the road must be all clear beyond, as here was a party of only five people, two foreigners and three porters, who had come up from Shiótsü ; and straightway producing bags, they col- lected coin from the sailors, and started back, giving James and Charlie the benefit of the road they had trodden through the Snow, So that Hükasaka was passed without a rest, the summit reached, and the comforts of Hikida attained in a very short time. The sailors probably were a little tired before they reached Shiótsú. They are a hardy race, though, and as light- hearted as most other Japanese ; and I dare say they laughed over their troubles, and jeered each other for being left in the lurch by the villagers, with the task only half accomplished for which they had paid ; and went gaily down the lake next day in the cranky little steamers that it seemed a rash thing to trust oneself aboard of. We heard in the course of the next day of the safe arrival of our friends at Hikida ; and then the Snows descended again, and there was no communica- tion across the hill for a fortnight. And so ended our first year up Country. I have already mentioned the Saga rebellion, that took place early in the year, but not its sequel, the Formosa expedition, nor the sequel of that again. There was so much ground for the Formosa expedition, as this. China, the nominal owner of all Formosa, had refused to chastise the rude people of the east coast, who had AXAESZ" YAZAA”.S. WOA’A. 67 been guilty of cruelty and depredations in respect of Japanese vessels and their crews wrecked on the island. Japan, always on the look out for some opportunity of Striking a blow for effect with the minimum of risk, or of beginning to begin to get ready to fight, like Mr. Winkle, and hurrying up the preparations in exact proportion to the approach of the authorities charged to prevent a row, threatened and blustered, and mustered ships and men; the government chuckling in Tökiyö over the eagerness of their friends the samurai, who were all agog at the prospect of a chance of showing their usefulness, but who were not supposed to have much really to Say in the matter. Unfortunately, it sometimes happens, the reins give way just when it is a question of dexterously turning a corner ; and when the government were devis- ing a means for backing out of the affair, lo the ships departed, the men landed in Formosa, walloped some wretched savage tribes they met with, and sent home to know how they were going to be rewarded if they came back, or if they hadn't better go on into China. They were enticed back, just about the time that China felt a tickling Sensation in one of her extremities ; and the question was made a diplomatic One. Here was China saying that the other side of Formosa was really not worth bothering about, but Japan had no business there at any rate ; here was Japan boasting that she had given the Chinese a lesson, and was quite willing to take Formosa altogether, if China liked, or didn't ; here were all the other powers only anxious that there should be no row. And in the end only the savages of Formosa and the finances of Japan suffered, though the latter were 68 AIGHT YEARS IN 9AAAA. helped by a substantial indemnity from China, who tardily acknowledged that as a friendly power she ought to have punished the bad conduct of her subjects towards the distressed and shipwrecked Japanese. Prac- tically justice was done ; only the government of Japan had a warning not to pretend too much, when the ele ments of a disturbance were gathering around. The successful people were unquestionably the samurai, who had their own way, in spite of their own government, and came galumphing back, and sent in the bill. China, of course, revived the charming old fiction, of all the outer kingdoms being vassals of hers, who were occasionally permitted to settle matters amongst them- selves, the victor always finding that he had been acting as representative of the ruler of the middle kingdom ; so that there was nothing wrong in the fact of Japan having been allowed to show her zeal for the service of Pekin by whacking people too small for China to bother about, and being rewarded by so many taels subsequently as a mark of approval. I believe when the joint ex- pedition of England and France took Pekin, it was represented as being at the request of the Emperor of China, who had some provincial barbarians on his hands at the time, and asked the allied powers just to step in and keep things dusted while he was away in the country. The futilities of oriental diplomacy have always some- thing charming about them, and it seems a pity that they should generally be connected, either before or after the event, with bloodshed, rapine, and misery, which represent to the statesmanlike mind in the east little more than the board with its alternate squares does AYRS7" VEAA’.S. WOA&A. 69 to the chess-player ; you must have it always, but it has no influence on the moves of the game except to make them possible. The ancient relations of China, Corea, and Japan, so far as they have been unravelled by re- search, were, except for this necessary taking of life and destruction of the results of labour, a round of high old jinks and ceremonies. This Formosan expedition connected itself subse- quently with the last act of violence, by which a foreigner was the victim, in Japan, of native fanaticism ; the story being well-known—that of the murder of Mr. Haber, the German Consul at Hakodate, a gentleman generally respected by all who knew him. One wretched man of the Samurai class, who had stayed at home instead of joining his companions in their jaunt to Formosa, had his life made so miserable by the consequent contempt with which they treated him, that he became weary of it; and having realized his small property, Squandered the proceeds in the least reputable purlieus of Hakodate, and reduced his worldly possessions to his dishonoured sword, Sallied out half drunk to re-establish his self- respect by killing a foreigner. He met with Mr. Haber, who was in feeble health, just recovering from a severe illness, and cut him down. Of course he was brought to justice ; and it is much to the credit of the German Minister at that time, Herr von Brandt, who at once took the true view of the case, that no attempt was made to seek other redress than such as the operation of the powers of law provided ; or to render the government of Japan otherwise accountable than as trustees of justice for the action of a dishonoured 7o A/GAT YEARS ZW 5A PAN. and semi-idiotic ruffian. It was not to be apprehended thenceforth that any Japanese patriot, however mistaken or fanatical, would willingly render himself liable to be remembered in the same week with the wretched Hako- date murderer. CHAPTER IV. SECOND YEAR'S WORK : AKASAKA, NAGOYA (1875). WE were busy enough all through January of 1875 in making up Our estimates, occasionally getting out for a tramp in the snow or a coasting voyage round the head of the lake after game. Our great shikari, Tom, shot what he called a mountain sheep, really a sheep- faced antelope, before Christmas ; and they were shot by the native hunters in large numbers when the heavy snows drove them down into the valleys. Wild boar were also slain in plenty, and one enormous one, said to weight forty-five “kan” or “kwamme,” equivalent to three hundred and seventy-five pounds, was hoisted in triumph up to the top of the look-out ladder in the next village. We couldn’t do very much of this kind of fun, being far too heavy to get about on any kind of snow-shoe we could devise ; for the snow remained soft and unfrozen all through the winter. Tom, however, shot a young pig with a revolver through a hole in the top of the box in which the luckless pig was confined, his capture having been previously effected by a combina- tion of Japanese strategy with foreign dollars. James and Charlie had lots of fun, and got several good skins. 72 A/GAT YEARS IN }APAN. Of my own achievements I will only say that I didn't give myself any airs on account of them. - Our poultry yard at Shiotsú was a great temptation to the foxes, who used to come and hang about round the corner, and even try and get under the house. But Tom was too many for them ; whenever he smelt a fox he would arise and go to his muzzle-loader, and fire from the verandah at the thick of the scent, rarely failing to hit something. Our worst enemies, however, were the polecats, or “ten,” as thc Japanese call thein. We lost more than twenty fowls one night, in spite of watching and dodging ; but we got one of the marauders at last, whose mate had shut up the hole through which he essayed to retreat, by dragging a too-too fowl into it; so that he was peppered with small shot, and after waltzing round the Cook's quarters, and being transfixed there with a carving-fork, he died. Every day Tom and I struggled up to a little garden we had in a sheltered corner, and dug some endive out from under the Snow, and Mrs. Tom accompanied us as directress. The season was a trying one, however, to any but rude constitutions; and at the end of the month I was obliged to send them both away to find the doctor, as we couldn't get a doctor to come to Shiótsú ; at least he was so long in coming that we gave him up, and I couldn't take the responsibility of keeping Tom, who fell really ill, and his wife any longer in such an out of the way hole as Shiótsú. So on the first available fine day they started off, on what was a very trying journey; but, with the help of friends on the way, they reached Kobe all right. SECOND KAEAR’s WORK 73 The Kiyoto doctor arrived at Shiótsū a few hours after their departure, having taken three days to come round the lake—and sharp work, too, in such a season—rather than trust to a steamer. He was naturally wroth at finding his journey useless; but there was no help for it at that time. So he stopped only long enough to take some lunch, and departed down the other side of the lake, hoping to find the roads better that way; but came to grief, being pitched out of his jinrikisha backwards, so that he nearly broke his neck, and reached home rather more dead than alive. I was now left alone, and as our estimates and plans had all been sent in, time hung heavily on my hands; so I induced. James and Charlie to come over, and we had a few days shooting together quietly, and otherwise strove to make our miserable lives happy. And then one morning in came our letters, and amongst them a summons to myself to repair to Kobe, there to receive from the Chief instructions for a new survey for the coming season, of greater extent than the one just completed, and involving the services of a larger staff under my supervision. We gave three cheers, for we very soon became tired of the workless state ; and by eight o'clock next morning I was keeping an eye upon the pressure gauge of a cranky little paddle-steamer, and leaving Shiótsú behind me. Touching the said pressure gauge, I afterwards found that I was a victim to a kindly imposture; for Owing to the spread of intelligence and development of exact knowledge in the land, all steamers were provided with 74. A/GAT YEARS MAW 9.4 PAN. two gauges—one in a conspicuous position, and war- ranted to keep steady within small limits, so that the nervous passenger might be comforted—as I was, and another in a secluded corner of the stoke-hole, for the information of the head engineer and stoker's mate, who occupy the inside of one hat. In spite of this con- siderate arrangement, a steamer on the lake had gone to glory with all hands only a few days before ; and when Tom and his wife were on the journey down he had been obliged to get out on the deck of his boat, which was being towed by the steamer, and use several short words, emphasized by the display of a pocket Derringer, to prevent twenty-six “damp, moist, and unpleasant bodies” being taken on board, the results of the capsize On the previous day. The account that reached me of this latter casualty, was that one of the smallest steamers, licensed to carry thirty-six passengers, had started away from Shiótsú at the dead of the night with sixty-five ; and that four people having gone simultaneously to one side of the boat to look at bubbles in the water, she heeled over, and forty wide-awake passengers rushed to the other side to keep her steady ; but she righted too much, turned turtle, and five out of the whole number on board lived happy ever afterwards. As all passengers have to be registered by name, there were twenty-nine unregistered, so that the terms of the licence might not appear on the record to have been transgressed ; and the authorities were annoyed to find upon inquiry that the five survivors had apparently not been on board at all ; but as all the hands belonging SAE COMO VAZAA”.S. WOA’A. 75 to the steamer were lost, it was found convenient to lay the blame upon the unhappy skipper, who could not, of course, speak up in his own defence. When returning, I put myself and belongings into a tow-boat, by Official Command, without a pang. However, thanks to the show-gauge, I was quite happy on the way down. The surface of the lake was as calm as a mill-pond, darkened here and there by myriads of geese and teal. All around the mountains were snow-clad from Summit to base, until we came within a few miles of Otsii, where a deep cross valley between Shirayama to the north and Iye-san to the south—two mountains of over three thousand feet high —seemed Curiously to mark a change of climate. Shirayama (white hill) fully deserved its name; but even on the northern slope of Iye-san there was scarcely a patch of snow visible. At Otsii I found that only about a foot of Snow altogether had fallen, and not above two inches in any one fall—yet we were only fifty miles from Shiótsū where we certainly had a minimum of four feet in depth of snow on the ground for five weeks; and there was fully half of it remaining when I left. I found, to my delight, that the road from Ötsii to Riyoto had been vastly improved from the state of fourteen months before. It was now a good wide road, with the old tramway removed, inclines eased, and properly drained ; and I bowled along merrily into the old capital with many a yell from the coolies who were drawing my jinrikisha, and many a close shave of corners, and many a leap of the heart into the throat 76 A/GAT YEARS MAW 9AAAAW. as the gaily dressed children in their wonderful winter garments, looking like a cross between a demon and a butterfly, squirmed out of the way of the wheels. Arriving at the railway offices about five o'clock, I forthwith sent on the boy and interpreter to Füshimi, to secure a boat on the river, and dropped in upon my colleague, the elder Tom, who was residing in quarters at the offices, as was also another of the staff, like himself a married man. Though when we left England we were warned that wives were to be looked upon as incumbrances altogether Out of place in Japan, for some months at any rate, these two astute persons had come provided, and had unquestionably been in consequence made far more comfortable in every way than we luckless bachelors had been. Our Tom was an exception, and in truth it seemed to be thought necessary that one married man at least should be made uncomfortable, lest all should presume, and a general rush for wives be made as a preliminary to a struggle for the “soft things” of the department. Yet another married man—nay, two—were there in Kiyoto; though I only caught a glimpse of one of them at the time, and did not meet him again for nearly five years. I was hospitably entertained ; and after a pleasant chat, and enough departmental scandal to show me that even these happily situated people, as I should call them, had their grievances, whereat I was disposed to laugh, I left them at ten o'clock, and before midnight was asleep in my boat and gliding down the peaceful river. Osaka was reached without mishap ; and after a SAE COND VEAR”.S. WORK. 77 chat with the Chief Assistant, whom I found in residence there, I sped on by rail to Kobe, recruited my by no means wearied frame with a bath and some tiffin, and presented myself to the Chief for instructions. These were, that I should go upon a second instalment—the first being included as a portion of the last year's survey—of the grand trunk railway between Kiyoto and Tökiyö, intended to pass through the heart of the country ; but the portion of it now to be surveyed only extended from the eastern shore of the lake to the far side of the plain of Mino, about fifty miles, with a branch of twenty miles to the city of Nagoya and the coast of Owari Bay; being partly in a not very rugged hill country and partly in a region of large rivers. My staff was to consist of James and Charlie, as before ; Billy and Christopher; another James, say Jimmy, whose work on the Osaka-Kiyoto railway in course of construction was to be handed over to Tom, in consideration of his blessed state of matrimony; and a youth, Claude, from Yokohama ; subsequently reinforced by Ned, the one married man who was to be made uncomfortable, vice Tom relieved. I had five days in Kobe ; during which I provided myself with such belongings as I thought necessary for my comfort during the campaign, being firmly purposed to dispense with the too costly assistance of the depart- ment in that line. The hotel people made a good profit out of me, for I think I had only one meal in the place during my stay ; and having attended church, and a ladies' ball, and Sundry other dissipations, to clear away 78 A/GAT YEARS ZV 9AAAAW the cobwebs from my provincial brain, departed for the scene of action. I had instructions to make a progress through the works of the Osaka-Kiyoto line, and see what was doing there. Truth to tell it was not very much, except near Osaka, where the foundations of two large river bridges were in progress, the work consisting of building and sinking large brick wells. Further on some bridges and culverts were in hand, but after the first half-dozen miles the works seemed to consist of embankments merely, the future position of bridges being indicated by gaps left in the same. However, it was all very interesting so far as it went ; and I envied the four resident engineers their comfortable bungalows, spaced about six miles apart ; so that progress by easy stages, with intervals for refreshment, was the order of the day and a half I took between Osaka and Kiyoto. I had already obtained leave for James and Charlie to come down and recruit themselves for the exertions of the coming season, and passed them on my way; that is, I was on the road when they were on the river. I looked in again upon my friends in Kiyoto, Ned the victim, still unconscious of his impending fate (as indeed I was also at the time), and made Shiótsū after eight days’ absence. There I packed off Tom's belongings that he had left behind, took a last fond look at village, temple, bay, and mountain, and hey for Mayebara ! my new starting- point, about five miles South of Nagahama; the object being to get a Solitary run through the new district, and prepare instructions for the staff as they arrived suc- SAE COMO YEAA”.S. WOA&A. 79 cessively on the ground, so that each might be able to get to work as soon as he reported himself. Signs of a pretty sharp thaw were noticeable as I left Shiótsú, with “Yashi’’ (cocoa-nut), Charlie's brown retriever, standing like a monument on the end of the landing-stage. He was left in charge of a servant to await his master's return from Kobe, but didn't quite understand the arrangement; and when the last of his master's friends had disappeared he lay down in front of the temple, with his eyes towards the lake, refused food, and died there before Charlie returned. We were all very Sorry for poor old Yashi, whose propensity for running down perpendicular cliffs and straining himself, so that he had generally to be carried about in a “Kago.” as one of the family, and to take sitz-baths every morning and evening, had endeared him to all classes of the Community. We had a brisk breeze down the lake, as far as the hills enclosed the narrow part, and our sailing-boat Surged along merrily ; but when we were opposite Benten we found that the true direction of the wind was from the west across the lake ; and from out of the deep bight behind the island came a nasty Sea, so that we rolled about with shortened sail, shipping lots of water, and feeling very uncomfortable. This lasted about three hours, when the Sailors suddenly hoisted sail to its full extent and made for the shore, as I thought intending to run us up high and dry ; but, behold, there was a narrow passage, barely thirty feet wide, through which we were cleverly steered, to find our- selves in a lagoon of still water and a creek beyond 8O A/GAT YEARS IN JAPAN. leading up to a little village under a hill. This was Mayebara, five hours from Shiótsú, by the water detour, though only about seventeen miles as the crow flies. It was now raining dismally ; so as I had plenty of desk-work in arrear, I set up my table in a tea-house and made out the afternoon there. My baggage on this journey consisted of what might be fairly set down as necessaries for travel in the interior, heavy cases being left behind at Mayebara till they should be sent for. There was a portmanteau and hand-bag, despatch box, Cooking apparatus and lamp, a box of stores, table and two chairs, and less obviously necessary for a few days' trip, a fitted canteen, a gun-case, and a promising young pointer. Then the interpreter had his light baggage, and the native servant was also similarly provided. One object was to test the rate of progress that could be made with this amount of Żmpedimenta, from day to day, as proposed new regula- tions made a point of the distance travelled in calcu- lating allowances. I found that the minimum of twenty five miles would have been easily accomplished, if it had not been on government service; but as the actual transport, by jinrikisha or coolie, was an official matter, my interpreter would never arrange, as paymaster, for a long stage, but at every post-town or village would get fresh men, and consume half an hour at least in getting everything reduced to writing and stamped officially. As the stage did not average five miles, a good deal of time was thus thrown away, so that at least ten hours on the road were required to cover the twenty-five miles. In the hilly districts, where it was necessary SAECOAVZ) V.A.A.A.”.S. WO/CA. 8I to walk, the stages were longer and the delays pro- portionably less, so that it was pretty fair on the whole, but tiresome. In my case, however, I could utilize the delays by looking about the country, which was my main object apart from the experiment as to possible progress. Rain again next day, and that most dismal, a heavy mist hanging low down and completely hiding the tops of even the lower hills; but I made a start, and partly riding, partly walking, got beyond the water shed of the lake, and down a valley to a village on the edge of the plain of Mino; having passed three long villages and Several small ones, and by what appeared to be a thriving line of country on the whole, very different from the Shiótsū district. The second day was fine, but the roads still bad. At Akasaka, a straggling village at the foot of a bold lime- stone hill, I routed out the head-man or mayor, and from the top of a small wooded hill to the southward, bearing unmistakable marks of having been entrenched, and called “Kachiyama’’ (victory hill), the scene of one of the fights in which Iyeyasū overcame his former master and rival for power, Hideyāshi, I had a good view, and obtained a series of bearings of all the important points in and around the plain. Then on again, across two considerable rivers by ferry-boat, and a level intervening tract intersected by embankments, to Kanó, an old castle town, where the road to Nagôya branches off to the southward, and another in the opposite direction led to Gift, the seat of local government, a tall conical hill called the Gifi-yama standing out boldly G 82 A/GAT YEARS IN }APAN. into the plain to the east of the larger of the two rivers referred to. At Kanó a great “matsuri” was in full swing, and coolies for transport had to be procured from a separate village “in another parish.” During this delay I walked round the town, through the fields, and skirted the moat of the old castle, whose buildings and ramparts had almost disappeared. The celerity with which these relics of ancient power vanish from off the face of the earth is rather startling sometimes. As the buildings are of wood and plaster they require some expenditure to keep in repair, and unless Some special use is made of them, it is cheaper to pull them down and sell the material than spend money in maintenance. The fine old seasoned timber commands a good price—we turned some of it into railway carriages, and the very stones of the ram- parts, rough conical blocks, laid with the base outwards to the face of the wall, so that they have the appearance of far more substantial building than they really make, are carted away to make foundations for new erections. East of Kanó we soon got clear of the rice-land, mounting on to a stretch of almost uncultivated ground, partly covered with forest, but affording one of the few chances for a good gallop that one gets in Japan. Though elevated only about twenty feet above the main river, but requiring thus the application of capital to irrigate it, this land lies waste, only one or two poor villages occurring in some thirteen miles of road. Beyond this “hara,” or elevated plain or heath, lies the village of Unuma, to the east of which commences the picturesque gorge through which the great river Kisó SAE COAVZ) VAZAA’’.S. WOA’A. 83 rushes into the plain, with many a rapid and deep eddy among the basaltic rocks through which it has worn a tortuous way. There being still two hours of daylight when I reached Unuma, I strolled up the gorge, returning heartily tired to the head-man's house for dinner and rest, the inns being too indefinably dirty and crowded. Next morning, with weather still fine, I went over the hill to the far side of a bare overhanging precipice that had stopped me the previous night; and found that this, the only obstacle in the route of a railway hereabouts, was but a few dozen yards through, and no difficulty appeared in locating a line on either side of it; so I returned to Unuma, and started for Nagöya, turning to the southwest. We crossed the river about a mile below the opening of the gorge by a ferry, the width of which showed how cramped the river must be in its rocky bed above, and landed under the crag of Inuyama, where a castle, high up above the water's edge, still commands the passage. In a sort of bay behind a similar Crag, but isolated and its top inaccessible, on the other side of the river, acres of tree-trunks were lying in the water ; brought down in time of flood from the rugged sides of Ontake-san, fifty miles away to the north-east, and collected here to be formed into rafts for transport down the river to the ports on the bay of Owari. South of Inuyama we found another elevated plain of Small extent, and then descended in a sort of corduroy Country, alternate strips of wet and dry cultivation, cunningly devised to take advantage of the very highest level at which water could be brought on to the land apparently, half the ground being artificially lowered 84 FIGHT YEARS ZAV 34 PAAV. and the rest raised. Across this we struggled by a sandy road, heading for Komaki, a village lying near an isolated hill far out in the plain, and this we reached by lunch-time, finding it a busy place, with many good shops, crowded with purchasers from the Surrounding country. Then on again southward to Nagöya, whose lofty keep we had now in view through the trees that bordered the road, crossing a wide turbid river between lofty banks connected by a ricketty wooden bridge that I thought it best to walk over. We doubled backwards and forwards a few times, and at last mounted a steep incline on to the bluff that supports at its western ex- tremity the remains of the grand old feudal castle. This is quite a large place. Though the greater part of the old buildings have disappeared, the keep of seven stories in height is still in good preservation, and within the ramparts are the new barracks of the garrison and an ample parade ground, with rifle range three hundred yards long beside it. Skirting this, we entered upon the main street of one of the largest towns in Japan. A busy scene it presented that afternoon, with its groups of country folk, consulting and staring, at One moment all back and the next all face; its parties of soldiers, dirty little boys in uniform, holding each other's hands like children as they staggered down the road, and whooped derisively at the passing foreigner; its black-coated, belted, spectacled, and staff-bearing policemen; its lines of shops for the sale of every imaginable article of native or foreign production, with gaily dressed damsels seated on the shop-boards, or squatting with feet tucked up and their shoes on the SAE COA/A) VEAA”.S. WOACA. 85 ground below them, bargaining, chattering, cheapening, and, I firmly believe, never buying anything ; the grave shopkeepers seated in state behind fifteen-inch screens, with brazier, pipe, and abacus all complete, but quite too dignified to take any active part in the business that was going on between the make-believe purchasers and the sharp-eyed shock-headed shop-boys. There were silks and velvets, calicos, shirtings, native dyed cloths, blankets, crockery, hardware, lamps, Soap, umbrellas, slates and pencils, combs and hairpins, mirrors, watches and clocks, cheap engravings and coloured lithographs, photography, hats, toys, kites, wines and beer, canned provisions, sweetmeats and sugar, green stuff, gold fish, spectacles, false hair, dolls, purses and pipe-cases, paper and books, ink, maps, ink-stones and writing brushes, tobacco, musical instruments, and I don't know what, all apparently mixed together in two long shops, from the castle gate to the telegraph office and far beyond. The air was full of jovial hubbub, peals of laughter, cries of anguish from lost children and hunting mothers, the creak and rumble of heavy ox-carts with their loads of tubs and bales, the scutter of impudent poultry, and the yell of trampled dogs. I missed the gentleman with the three-peaked hat and the crutched stick, his friend with the beautiful complexion and capacious pockets, and the glittering dancer with the magic sword; but if they had suddenly appeared from round the corner, and proceeded to relieve old ladies of their parcels, stretch themselves before the feet of wondering- eyed countrymen, transform a draper's shop into a theatre, or perpetrate any of their well-known old tricks 86 A ZGAZ" YEARS IN 9AAAAW. at the expense of the police, there would have been no perceptible incongruity, and probably no addition to the general row, or interference with the univeral polite- ness and gaiety. We made our way slowly along this main street till we reached the centre of the town, and then turned aside into a parallel street of quieter character and searched for an inn. My interpreter had sent on a note to ask the local authorities to assign me some respect- able quarters ; but of course it was a holiday, and no officials were to be found. I was rather tired, but so little pleased with the look of one or two tea-houses that I ventured into, that I insisted upon some person in authority being hunted up ; and at last we found a grumpy middle-aged man, who utterly refused to recognize me as a government official, but said that foreigners always went to a certain hotel near the telegraph office. We left him to recover his good humour at his leisure; and repairing to the place indi- cated, found that it bore the outward aspect of any other respectable lodging-house, but had a board Over the entrance on which was written “Hôtel du Progrès l’’ and entering, I was eagerly welcomed by a numerous staff, all in holiday costume. I was conducted up a wide staircase, ornamented with shrubs in earthenware jars, into a room of state that was probably nearly nine feet Square, and had one side glazed, without any blinds, and in one corner a round table with a very dirty cloth on it. About ten feet away was a blank wall, on the other side of which was a native spree in full swing ; and I found SEcoMD YEAR’s WORK. 87 that the holiday was being kept up by the governor and his aides, with the help of about a score of dancing girls, actresses, musicians, and other aids to reflection, in a room overlooking a garden, which would be placed at my disposal as soon as the whole party had consumed what there was to eat and drink, and gone home. But I had my dinner, and smoke, and had settled down under my “füton " (quilts) on the mats long before that happened ; and I don’t think any of the ladies who peeped in through the left-hand hole in the paper door could have sworn that I wasn't asleep. I had just finished breakfast the next morning, when my interpreter appeared with the grumpy man of the day before, now all Smiles and courtesy, and two young officials, who were similarly affected ; and introduced them as sent by the governor to afford me full informa- tion about the wants and apprehensions of the Aichi Ken generally (Aichi prefecture or Ken, is the modern name for the old province of Owari) in respect of rail- ways. On my explaining to them that I desired to find out the most satisfactory site for a station, in proximity to the wholesale business quarter of the city, and with easy access to the main centres of both land and water- borne traffic, they seized the idea at once; and we went round the whole place together, from the market for inland produce to the wharves where the junks lay in the offing waiting for a spring tide to get them inshore (for the bay is very shallow and fast silting up); thence to the Kenchó, or local government offices—where I was concerned to hear that the governor was unwell— and to the great shrines, the canal, and so on. I found 88 A. ZGAZ" YEARS ZAV 9AAAAW. that the young men had really a great fund of informa- tion, which they were good enough to impart to me. The afternoon I devoted to independent study of the locality; and when I returned to the hotel, and was taken up a little back staircase into the big room where the trouble had been the day before, I found myself pretty well exhausted, and contemplated the garden through the smoke of a cigar with great contentment as the day declined. I was honoured by the special ministrations of the daughter of the house, who waited on me at dinner, asked after my family and native land, my status generally, and whether I had acquired a taste for Japanese luxuries : and discoursed about all the subjects of interest that a Japanese girl can suggest. My command of the language enabled me to answer questions pretty tolerably, when I understood them, and to originate a few inquiries in return ; but I failed to get a clear idea of the gist of her remarks about the system of government and taxation, agriculture and social institutions, or whatever it was she favoured me with as I became gradually worn out with guessing and bad grammar, till she providentially withdrew and left me to my hardly earned repose. Next morning I started away from Nagöya by a different road to that by which I had entered it; but first went down in the grey of the morning to the Kencho, and left my card for the governor, instructing my interpreter to express my sorrow at not having time to await his restoration to health, which I hoped might be speedy and definitive—and in time for the next general holiday, I thought, but did not say —and then on my SAECOMZ) VEAA’’.S. WOAEA. 89 way back through the town enjoyed for the first time the delight of being pitched out of a jinrikisha. In Japanese towns surface water is carried off by narrow drains on each side of the road, running under the shop boards, and in order to make these effective the road- way is well elevated in the centre. Now, at this time the part of the main street below the telegraph office was being repaired, each householder being required to raise the portion in front of his own house, as far as the middle of the road; and as this was done in a patch- work sort of way, by each man at his convenience, the surface of the road was far from even. My team of coolies had negotiated many of the rises and falls very cleverly, but at last got too near the houses, where the side slope was pretty steep ; and in bouncing up on to a portion of mended road shot me out sideways into a hardware shop, where I made a horrible clatter among the pots and pans, gridirons, tongs, Scissors, and other hard things with edges and corners. Fortunately, I broke nothing ; and the old lady of the establishment, who had bolted with a yell as I came in at the window, thinking no doubt that a general action was commencing, pulled herself together and brought me a tub of water to wash my hands in, and a broom to dust my coat withal. As it was beginning to rain, I had wrapped myself well up in rugs and waterproofs for the journey, all of which flew with me, and so I escaped with hardly a bruise and no broken bones; and after the dismayed coolies had realized that I had no intention of doing anything violent, and consequently that the incident involved no tragedy, they burst into a loud yell of QO A/GAZ YZARS MAW 9AAAAW. laughter, in which the whole population of the street, including the old lady of the shop, joined lustily; and we proceeded more carefully on our way. As we had to pass the castle, I pulled up at an inner gate, and by sending in my card by the interpreter to the commandant, readily obtained permission to enter the keep. First we went through a copper-studded doorway, under a guard-house supported on beams spanning the entrance, and through a winding passage into a court, commanded on all sides by inner ramparts, and then passed another almost similar gate, situated at right angles to the first ; certainly a difficult entrance in face of a foe. At the side of the inner court was a range of buildings, containing some good rooms richly ornamented with carving in the panels above the sliding partitions, all in good preservation but not used, evidently; these were the state rooms of former days. Passing onward, we crossed a sort of bridge over a deep hollow, with masonry revetments, and commanded again by loopholed galleries on other walls, and found Ourselves in the basement story of the keep, an enormous oblong apartment, said to contain a thousand mats, each mat being two square yards. The space inside the walls must therefore have been close upon half an acre, including the interior supports, which were of very substantial character. The ceiling was low, not above eight or nine feet, and if, as I was assured, this apartment sometimes in olden days was a barrack for a thousand men, they must have been rather in want of ventilation. A wide stair in one corner led to a room above, slightly smaller, and more carefully ornamented; and so on We SAE COMD VEAA’’.S. WORAT. 9 I rose story after story till we reached the top room, only about twelve yards square, some hundred feet above the basement. Though the diminution in size is rapid, so that the whole pile is somewhat pyramidal in shape, the cunning of the architect has so overlaid the bare structure with gabled roofs and overhanging rafters at each floor, that the general effect is eminently graceful; and a spreading tent-like roof crowns the whole, with the harmonious curves and sweeps of the eaves and ridges that one sees in the temples of the land. In former days two immense fish, tail in air, covered with gold plates, surmounted the topmost gables ; but before my time these had been removed, and one of them I saw in an exhibition in Kiyoto; it was nearly ten feet high, and must have formed an effective finial at the height of its original position. From the topmost story we had a good view all around, somewhat marred by lowering rain-clouds; but I made up my mind to pay another visit Some fine day, and descending, took leave of the courteous official who had accompanied me, and started again on my journey. We went nearly due west out of the town, through a long suburb crowded with market people, who piled their wares in the road so as barely to leave room for a single vehicle or pack-horse to pass ; and then crossed a wide river, met with higher up two days before, by a temporary bridge, hard by a new half-finished structure of a very substantial character; and then came another long Suburb, and at last we were in the open country, which looked as cheerful as may be imagined, in the 92 AEIGHT YEARS ZAV 5"A PAN. now heavy rain. More corduroy country, with small and dirty villages scattered about, led us into a sandy tract, mainly devoted to cotton, and a big village with two fine temples, the inhabitants apparently chiefly employed in the manufacture of wooden spinning and weaving machinery. Then came more cotton fields and another stretch of corduroy country, succeeded by an expanse of low-lying rice-land, bounded by the lofty bank of the big river Kiso, here nearly half a mile wide between the flood banks, though the stream was but half that width. We were ferried across, only about a hundred yards at the far side being too deep for poling, and found ourselves in the village of Kasamatsü, where our day's journey came to an end, though it was only lunch time, a little late. But as this was in a direct line between Kanó and Nagôya, I had promised myself to look about the locality a little, and spent the after- noon trudging along the high flood-banks, crossing several times by boat, and getting an idea of what the railway crossing would be like. The Kisó is one of the largest rivers in Japan, subject to heavy floods from the hilly country of its upper course; and the determina- tion of the proper crossing was one of the problems of the survey. I had to put up with miserable quarters, but was too tired to grumble, and soon found sleep in spite of the fleas. Next day, we followed down the right bank of the river till we came opposite another large village, about six miles down stream, and then struck off to the right in a north-westerly direction, crossing the two rivers I had met with previously between Akasaka and Kanó, SAE COMO VAEAA’’.S. WOA’A. 93. but lower down ; and getting by mid-day to Ogaki, a considerable castle town about four miles south of Akasaka, to which there was evidently access by Water for an import trade from the sea-coast. Another half- dozen miles brought me to Tarui, where I had lodged before, at the end of my first day's journey from Maye- bara. All this day also it rained dismally, and I was glad to get housed and warmed. - On reviewing my round, and notes of the country, I decided upon Akasaka as my head-quarters, as being the nearest convenient place to the centre of Communi- cation through the district; and despatching my inter- preter to look out for a house there, I sat down to distribute the staff. James and Charlie were to take from Mayebara to Tarui ; I indulged myself with a small triangle, having Tarui, Akasaka, and Ogaki for its corners; Billy and Christopher had the central part thence to Kanó and Unuma, and down to Kasamatsü; while Jimmy and Claude were to work from the last- named place to Nagôya and the head of the bay, reinforced in due time by Ned, whom I managed to fix at Nagoya so as to make him pretty comfortable. So I sent instructions to each, to meet them at Mayebara, in order that they might go straight to their respective grounds and “wire in.” I had some difficulty in finding suitable quarters for myself; not that I wanted much accommodation, but rather a safe place to leave things in during my absence, for I reckoned that I should be at least half my time fluttering round the district after my scattered chickens. At last a tiny house belonging to a little temple under 94. A/GAT YEARS ZW 5A PAN. the flank of the big hill seemed to suit me ; and I speedily made a few alterations and repairs, and took possession, turning a spare room of the priest's into a drawing office; and started to work in the field, before any of the others were on the ground. But before the end of March we were all in full swing, and a skeleton plan and proposed route were in the Chief's hands in May. In this work, and in what followed, we were able to make considerable use of the services of Some of the Japanese cadets. A far better staff, on the whole, was attached to us on this year's work, the difference being chiefly effected by weeding out incapables and obstruc- tives, and encouraging those who showed aptitude and willingness. We were still amused or angered from time to time by hearing of reports sent in from the district, touching the private conduct and personal failings of the foreign staff. There is no doubt that every action was noted, and periodical reports forwarded to the superior native Officials, varying in character from ingenious surmise, through ludicrous misapprehension, to simply contemptible slander ; and the only serious feature of the business was the belief accorded by some of our big- wigs, who Ought to have known better, to the stories that were brought forward with a view of discrediting the up-country division of the foreign staff. It was gravely imputed to one man that he had imported a bale of braces, forwarded on Service, for trading purposes Save the mark —a member of the Institution of Civil Engineers hawking suspenders in his leisure hours At last it was owing to the Common sense of the Japanese SAE COMW/O YEAA’.S. WOA&A. 95 Chief Commissioner that the subordinates were impressed with the conviction that dismissal, and not promotion, would be the result if they were found to give more attention to spying and slander than to assisting in the actual work in hand. The proceedings of our friends in authority rendered my position during this year by no means a pleasant one. All official communications between the head offices and the staff up country necessarily passed through my hands; and I was at one and the same time called upon to Superintend and expedite the progress of the work, referring to the Chief for instructions ; to inquire into and comment upon the charges brought against individuals under my control or influence, by persons intent upon making the most of every indis- cretion ; and to represent, as far as was possible within the limits of official courtesy, the feeling of an irritated and discontented staff. A strictly circumspect course of action, and the utmost moderation of Counsel, involv- ing, I confess, a severe strain upon my own ideas of justice, and a complete departure from what I should have not hesitated to do, had I been alone in the matter, was enforced upon me by every consideration of what I owed to others; and I may say that the retirement the end of this year's work brought about, into a less trying position, came as a most welcome relief. Other matters, of accidental occurrence, “bothered ” me not a little : Jimmy down with small-pox, which was rife in the district ; the advent of the victim Ned, whose health was precarious, and who had been Ordered up country in the scarcely disguised hope on the part of 96 AIGAT YEARS IN }APAN. the authorities that he would feel obliged to resign rather than attempt to obey, but who actually got on very well in spite of his incumbrances and anxieties; an attack of malarial fever that rendered my life a burden to me in the hottest of the hot weather, when for three weeks the thermometer never went below 91° Fahr. in “the cool of the morning;” Claude's exploit in shooting an agriculturist instead of a pigeon; and the serious illness of another of the staff who had to be sent down country;-all thcSc things combined, indeed, to keep me from desponding, for every occurrence had its ludicrous side : either at my own expense, or my friends' or my foes', there was a laugh to be had somehow. Take, for instance, Claude's little mishap, as to which I first heard by rumour that a foreigner, unnamed, had met a child just outside a village, and shot him dead with two bullets from a revolver;--next, that a foreigner had been riding violently along a narrow path through the paddy, and had charged a foot passenger, knocked him down and killed him ; next, that two of the staff, to wit Billy and Christopher, were in the hands of the authorities, who were protecting them against the fury of the excited populace. This last rumour started me off; and I found out that the foundation for the above romance was Claude's ill-luck. • It was towards the end of the hot weather, and not even fresh fish was obtainable ; and the youth, who had been living on tinned provisions for Some time, lusted, after fresh meat, and knowing of some pigeon, craftily pursued the same with gun “or other engine” contrary to the statutes in that case made and provided, but SAECOMO VAEAA”.S. WOA’A. 97 moved by his ungodly appetite. He got a couple of pigeon, and returned home rejoicing, quite innocent of all knowledge that a stray pellet had hit a lad who was Stooping down at the time, and invisible amongst some millet, in that portion of his frame which nurses and other guardians of infancy suppose to present the safest access to the sense of discomfort. Claude was actually sitting down to feast upon his prey, when he was informed by his interpreter that he had better not leave the house, as it was a case of blood for blood; and he was so taken aback that instead of going for the lacerated one with a dollar plaster promptly, on which basis he might have enjoyed the satisfaction of peppering the whole com- munity “a tergo" at his leisure, to the general diffusion of wealth and happiness, he stayed at home, ate the pigeon, and entrusted the arrangement of the affair to his interpreter, who happened to be one of the bad lot. The luckless victim certainly suffered severely, for he was carried to the hospital at Gift, and experimented upon by a native Sawbones ; and after existing as a mass of diachylon plaster, lint, and carbolic acid for a fortnight, became tired of that sort of fun, and walked home to inquire about the money, which he had to share with the sawbones and the interpreter. A report of the circumstance was telegraphed from Gift to the Home Department in Tökiyö, whence reference was made to the Foreign Office, and thence to the Public Works Department, whose magnates applied to the Director of Railways, who wrote the Engineer- in-chief, whose departmental duties were being ad- ministered during his absence by the Chief Assistant- H 98 A/GAT YEARS IN 9A PAN. Engineer, from whom I received the usual demand for a report. The same was accordingly forwarded by return mail over the same circuitous route, and nothing more was heard of the matter. As a further instance of the curious perversity of opinion that we had to contend with, came an inquiry from the Chief Assistant-Engineer, as to the truth of a rumour that was freely circulating in Kobe, to the effect that when Jimmy was attacked by small-pox, this same Claude, who was known to be associated with him at the time, left him alone, without any attendants, and fled for protection to head-quarters. As I well knew, Claude stuck by his sick companion throughout, and attended to him in all matters beyond the competence of the native servants. So far from his fleeing to head- quarters, the head-quarters came to him with the district medicine-chest, a most portentous sight, which of itself nearly cured poor Jimmy ; and with the advice of a very kind German doctor attached to the general hospital at Nagöya, one Dr. Junghans, the patient worked success- fully through his attack, which was fortunately of a mild type. I was more than a little indignant on Claude's behalf with our Kobe friends, but never succeeded in tracing the origin of the rumour; it was only certain that by some means the report was in circulation in the settlements within two days after the ailment that gave rise to it had declared itself. We were very lucky not to have more of this trouble amongst us, for it was no uncommon thing to see children in a high State of eruption carried about out of doors by their mothers, as if nothing was the matter. SAE COAVZ) VEAA”.S. WOAQA. 99 Since 1875, however, great progress has been made in the way of vaccination, and the scourge, which has left its evidences in the enormous number of scarred and blind people met with throughout Japan, is now kept down within very small limits. - Our ailments were chiefly such as a moderate use of tonics enabled us to contend against; with a day or two in the house occasionally, in case of any disturbance of the system from exposure to the Sun, or malarial influence. We managed to meet together in force from time to time at Nagoya, Ogaki, or the waterfall of Yörö, a lovely spot in a gorge of the western hills ; and unless some indiscreet person started the thrice-damned subject of our departmental grievances, we were tolerably jolly together. Among eight of us, not to mention Mrs. Ned and the baby, there was sufficient diversity of character to make our intercourse amusing ; and as we improved in command of the language, and became more independent of our interpreters, we could make personal acquaintance with such of the people as we chanced to come in contact with on Our expeditions of inquiry into the manufactures of the district, the damasks of Kanó, the pottery of Seto, and the cloisonné ware of Nagöya. Meanwhile, our work drew on merrily to its con- clusion. Our Chief, on his second visit in the beginning of November, settled all doubtful points, and by the end of that month all extensions and alterations had been finally polished off. Just as happened the year before, the first snows came down upon the hilly districts, as we completed our task; and by the middle of December : § © ; IOO FIGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. : ‘. we had turned our backs upon the scene of our labours, and retired upon Kiyoto, there to take up our winter quarters, and prepare our estimates. The rooms, formerly occupied as residential quarters, in the railway offices, were converted into a drawing office; and we distributed ourselves about the city of Kiyoto in various temples and tea-houses, according to our several wants and ambitions. I found what appeared to me a most luxurious habitation about a mile out of the city, hard by the tombs of the Mikados ; and finished up the year with a week of ague, brought on by a night journey by road, up from Osaka to Kiyoto on Christmas Eve, through mist and mirk, along the valley of the Yodo river, first traversed exactly two years before. ( IoI ) CHAPTER V. THIRD YEAR’s WORK (1876). EARLY in 1876, the surveying staff was broken up. Causes that had been at work almost from the time of our arrival in Japan, had first modified the sanguine ideas of the Minister of Public Works, and then ex- tinguished the hopes entertained by the Railway Department, of the future of railway development in the country. The revenue of the country, drawn almost entirely from the laborious farming class, and burdened with the maintenance of the now useless and practically obsolete caste of fighting men, could not be made to yield a surplus, to be sunk in works not immediately productive, at all commensurate with the extent and variety of the claims brought forward to aid from the Treasury; and the proposal of a new foreign loan for public works was firmly rejected by the Ministry. In principle, the strategic value of a line of communication across the island was admitted, and it was therefore determined that the links connecting Kiyoto with the lake, and the lake with the west coast, should be kept in remembrance as having the first claim in case the expenditure of capital should be again found possible in I O2 AIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. that direction ; but all else was indefinitely postponed. In fact, the extension from Kiyoto to Ötsú, was only commenced in 1879, and the separate link between the lake and the Sea in the following year. The traffic on the first line opened, the suburban railway, connecting the capital Tökiyö, with its port of Yokohama, which at the beginning had been very large, seemed to fall off unaccountably ; and both that and the length already opened in 1874, between Kobe and Osaka, competed disadvantageously with the transport by water of all heavy goods. There was still the line between Osaka and Kiyoto in hand, without going any farther ; and it was determined, after much vacillation, that the efforts of the Railway Department should be confined to this work for the time being. The reduction of the engineering staff thus became necessary; and in the end of 1875 steps were taken to that end, some of them not well devised or immediately effective. We who had been appointed in 1873–4, with agreements for three years' employment, were not immediately concerned, though a tentative proposal came to us, suggesting that, “as men of honour, we probably should not desire to eat the bread of idleness.” As, however, the possibility of such a state of things coming about as was now impending had been foreseen when we were appointed, and power reserved for the authorities to cancel our agreements without assigning any cause, upon payment of one year's salary, it was only necessary for us to remind them that the same was part of the consideration that had brought us to Japan, and thereupon leave them to take what course they *. ZAZRD VEAR’.S. WORK. IO3 thought fit; whereupon, it no doubt occurred to them, that as the said agreements had only about a year to run, they might as well have our services for their money; and so we heard no more of it. But in other directions reductions were ruthlessly carried out, and employés unprotected by agreements were set adrift. I mention this because it should not be supposed that the old staff did not include several whose assistance our Chief would willingly have retained had it been possible to do so. The character of the change of policy, and the pressure it brought upon the Railway Department, however, from the end of 1875 onward, may be estimated from the fact, that from a full strength of twenty-five engineers and draughtsmen, reduced by death and retirements to twenty-two at the date just referred to, and again subsequently by another death and two retirements while the reductions by intent were in progress, the remainder after the expiration of all the three years' agreements only numbered five, two of whom belonged to the old staff, and these two again, dying in 1877 and 1878, were, though much regretted, not replaced ; at least, not by additional engineers. In the course of these changes, first Jimmy went away to Yokohama, to take charge of the line between that place and Tökiyö ; then Billy was called upon to take a length on the Osaka-Kiyoto line; Ned and Claude were “lent” to the Mining Department, and went off to the extreme south ; James compromised with the Department and went home; Christopher returned to his friends ; and only Charlie was left behind in Kiyoto, awaiting expiration of his notice. I had IO4. FIGHT YEARS IN 5AAAA. myself taken over charge of the railway under construc- tion near Kiyoto, and had Charlie for a time as an assistant on the terminal station ; but I was now, according to our official nomenclature, a “District Engineer "doing duty as a “Resident Engineer," my staff having evaporated, and except for seniority was just on a level with my old friend Tom, who was on the next length, and Billy who was half-way to Osaka. We all set to work to push forward our line to completion, and had a busy suitituer. My length embraced a large quantity of bridging ; arched flood openings to the extent of fifty spans of fifteen feet opening; girder flood openings and bridges, eleven spans of forty feet; two smaller girder bridges and numerous culverts ; and the “big” bridge across the Katsura river, twelve spans of one hundred feet each. A great deal of work had been already done by my predecessor on the length, the earthworks and culverts being virtually complete, with about half the arched flood openings, and a good start made with the foundations of the rest of the bridging. The key to the work was of course the big bridge, and considerable difficulty was encountered in sinking the foundation wells. The point of crossing was about half a dozen miles from the mouth of the gorge through which the river issued on to the plain, and the bed of the river was composed of gravel of all descriptions, from small shingle to good-sized boulders, brought down by the stream in times of flood, and more or less disturbed by every freshet. The actual bottom of the main stream was some ten feet below the level of the THIRD VEAR'S WORK. IO5 surrounding country, but the spaces within the flood- banks that were dry except in time of flood and partly cultivated, had been raised by successive deposits to an average of six feet above the fields outside the banks, and were themselves submerged at times to the extent of several feet in depth, the top of the river bank being some ten or twelve feet above the enclosed ground and nearly twenty above the fields. The main channel was somewhat variable both in position and depth, and the whole deposit permeated by water, which, when the river rose, leaked out through the foot of the flood- bank into the open country in many places, as the material of which the banks were composed was the same gravel, barely covered by vegetable soil, and strengthened by the roots of bamboos that grew all along the slopes. When the river was low, it drained the surrounding stratum of gravel, so that our foundation pits showed that the surface of the permeating water fell towards the channel; but this was reversed with every rise of the stream above an average level, when the surface of the water in the pits fell away from the river towards the flood-banks; and after the first few feet, all the excavation within the wells had to be done under water. My predecessor had devised a sort of circular dredge that acted very satisfactorily, but the difficulty was to keep the wells upright as they went down. In many places the gravel was so hard, that the wells—great masses of brickwork twelve feet in outside diameter and two feet thick, bound together by iron rings and vertical rods—hung up on a mere shelf under the sharp cutting edge with which they were provided IO6 AAGHT YEARS ZW 3APAN. at the bottom, while the centre was excavated several feet below this edge; and the danger and difficulty lay in the runs made by the wells, sometimes without warning, when the supporting shelf gave way, and the difference of pressure owing to the great variability in the consistence of the stratum frequently forced the wells out of position. As this tendency increased with the depth of the excavation, it was necessary to keep a con- stant watch upon the dredging work, and use all possible means to keep the wells from sticking up. Until we were well below the bed of the stream, there was always a risk of a Sudden flood producing a change in the direction of the channel, and scouring away the gravel so as to upset the wells ; for the bed of the stream had many holes in it, that travelled about up and down the river, and the occasional approach of which to some of the wells was a source of great anxiety. We worked night and day, when the weather per- mitted ; and on the wells nearest the stream, even harder in bad weather than at other times, to get them down on to a firm bearing before the freshets came down ; loading the brickwork at top with rails, so disposed as to correct any observed tendency of the wells to cant over. Many a rough day and night did I pass on the works, till we succeeded in moving some refractory well from an insecure position to a firm bearing, with the stream rising and roaring through our stagings. We had only one set of diving gear, and I had to send this away from time to time for Billy to use, on a lot of similar wells that he was sinking for the foundations of his flood- openings; but we worked amicably together, and did 7'HZRD VEAA”.S. WORK. Ioy the best we could for each other. Our professional diver trained several Japanese, who seemed to take a delight in the work, and groped about in the darkness at the bottom of the wells, picking out the boulders from under the edge of the shoe, and coming up to the surface for a rest and a whiff of their tiny pipes every twenty minutes or so, with vivid descriptions of the particular state of some brute of a boulder that was holding up the well on One side ; and then down they would go again, and work at him till he was dislodged, and they had to be hauled up sharp to the surface as the well began to move, and the water and gravel boiled up over the top of the brickwork, as the great mass settled down on to a fresh bearing below. Then the diving gear was shifted to the next well, and the dredger was set to work again at the bottom. Gradually we got the upper hand of our troubles, as each pair of wells attained a safe depth below the bed of the stream, and was filled up with concrete. The upper works began to make a show, and it was curious to see the change in the aspect of the works, as the big wells disappeared, and for all there was to be seen above the surface we might have been working three months for nothing, till the plain brick piers were built up on the top of the buried wells, and the first of the iron girders were placed in position. By the time the later floods of July came down out of Tamba, the province beyond the hills, drained by our river, we were beyond all risk of anything but delay. The work was much delayed when near completion, an erroneous idea having got abroad that the length was IO8 AAGAZ77 YEARS MAV 34 PA.V. much behindhand, so that a push was made to get the line open up to the commencement of my length, and everything sacrificed to this, and my remaining work proportionately retarded. But after all I was only six weeks behind, and had a fair share of departmental help been given to me the whole length might have been opened simultaneously with a great saving in expense. As the Chief saw this, however, and did me ample justice, I was well satisfied. We opened the line into Kiyūto on thc 5th of September, the trains running to a temporary station near Töji. As for the permanent terminal buildings, the designs for which were only placed in my hands in April, that was another affair, especially as they were of a rather ambitious character, as befitted the situation. The summer was an exceptionally hot one, and so dry in the early months that there was a great loss of rice, Owing to the deficiency of water when the seed was put down. As soon as the winter crops are partly cleared off the ground, each farmer makes a little nursery for his rice-shoots in a corner of his land, putting down the seed thick, and keeping it covered with shallow water, and nourished with manure, while he breaks up and levels the rest of his farm, arranges his banks, and brings in his water supply ; then when the warm rains of early summer begin to fall he transplants the young shoots, some twelve or fifteen inches high, and separates them to a distance of about eight inches, so that what in the seed-bed covered only a space of a few square rods, suffices for as many acres in the field. This year, however, the summer rains were very late 7A7/R/D VEAA”.S. WORK. IO9 and the country dry, and a good deal of rice perished in the seed-beds. I remember well going down to Osaka, on one of my frantic expeditions after material that seemed to hang on the hands of the transport depart- ment long after it should have been delivered on the work; going part of the way by road, and getting on to a trolly when I reached the rails, the coolies who shoved me along being mournfully eloquent upon the prospects of the season, explaining that rice was going to be so dear that poor people would lie down by the roadside and die, and the farmers be unable even to save seed for next season. They toiled along under the brazen June sky, with many a grunt and many a stoppage, so that I thought I should never get to Osaka —at least before nightfall; but lo! a little cloud “like to a man's hand” came out of the sea, and presently gathered on the flank of Rokkösan, and grew black and spread over the western heavens, shutting out the cruel Sun; while a little shiver, as of an awakening hope, went from field to field, and then a cry rang out from the villages that the long-expected rain was at hand. The toiling farmers put down their buckets beside the sick seedlings and bared their breasts to the rush of rain that swooped down from the hills. The yells of my coolies as the first heavy drops reached us were enough to bring the heart into one's mouth ; and when the stinging shower struck them, they bent their backs to the work and whisked me along into Osaka at the rate of nineteen to the dozen, whooping with glee. I had to get through my business at head-quarters, and start off back by night, fearing a flood down the river; and I IO FIGAZ" YEARS ZAV 9AAAAV. sure enough the next day was none too long for us to get all snug at the bridge, before the water began to roar under our gangways and surge around the piers and stagings. Just below the bridge, a new channel was cut across one of the bends, wiping out the results of much labour in cultivation of the ground where the floods of former seasons had left their silt. We only lost a few sticks that broke away from their moorings; and some of those were afterwards recovered from the lower reaches of the river after the flood subsided. Yet another flood had we in the beginning of July, but I could laugh at it by that time. r Then came the hot season—late July and August— the river bed like a furnace, and my scamps of rivetters taking all the looking after I could give them. The day the line was opened to Mukömachi, the station just short of my length, was a full one for us at Katsura. We had more than half the girders up, and I was dis- porting myself with a theodolite at the end of the bridge, giving lines for the adjustment of the rest, when suddenly I caught sight of a little blue smoke in the middle of a long thatched roof, over my stack of rail-balks. Whew the men under the bridge thought I was fairly mad at last, probably, for an instant, as I bounced down amongst them and picked up a bucket of water for a shy at the blazing straw, and then thrust it empty into the hands of the nearest, turning him towards the river channel, with a kick behind to expedite him. But fire is no stranger in Japan, and in ten seconds every man was off the bridge and fighting for a bucket. I got little Musha, my head cadet, to organize a line to pass up 7A/7A D YAEAA”.S. WOA&A. I I I the water; but the roof was dropping in blazing frag- ments on to the timbers beneath, so with a heave-yo . and a push with poles, hands, whatever we could get a bearing with, over it went to one side, and the men swarmed on to the stack to fight the fire. The water began to come in, the logs were rolled Over and drenched on every side layer by layer, and presently the tongues of flame ceased to dart up from out the chinks of the lower tiers, and there was a horrid stench of steam and charred wood and smouldering straw. Before twenty minutes were over, the last buckets of water were being smartly exchanged over heads and shoulders by the smutty and scorched monkeys who were dancing on the timbers; and then we all went off to repair damages, apply plaster and arnica and Sweet oil, assume decent clothing, and get our tiffins. In about an hour's time I was returning to the bridge, cigar in mouth ; had exchanged a laugh with little Musha, who was trying to look as if he hadn't got a dozen yards of flannel twisted tight round his ribs where a post had caught him as he rolled amongst the logs; and just had my foot on the beginning of the upstream gangway, when two of the English foremen, the diver and a mason from Billy's length, who had come up for a holiday, met me ; and one, touching his hat, said, “I’m sorry to inform you, sir, that Smith's drowned.” I naturally asked “Where 2° and was answered, “He’s just below the old bridge, and we can't get him up !” “How long has he been in 2 * I shouted as I ran down the bank to the spot, thinking there might yet be a chance; but the reply, “About twenty minutes, sir!” II 2 FIGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. sounded ominously in my ears. It was a deep hole under the bank, where half an old bridge, wrecked by the last flood, projected into the stream. Nothing was to be seen of him from above ; but two of the native divers were already in search of him, and presently a shout from one of them, as he emerged and clung to the piling, brought a boatful of men out into the stream, one of whom leaning over the stem, caught at something under water; but it held, and he pulled the bows under, spilling all the crew into the river. They all scrambled out, and then one of the divers went down and released a foot that had caught in something, and the inanimate body of poor Smith was hauled ashore. We tried to revive him, but he had been in too long, and all efforts were fruitless. It seemed that after a hasty lunch, the three English- men had gone for a bathe ; and Smith who was only learning to swim, had got beyond his depth while the other two were racing down the river. When they turned, they saw he was in a flurry ; so getting Out of the water, they ran up to the spot, where he had already disappeared when they came up. They immediately dived and found him, but in his efforts he had caught his foot in the meshes of the “jakago’’ and they could not release him. They tried till they were thoroughly exhausted, being in about eight feet of water, and at last gave it up, and dressed to come up and report. They were so completely “done up" that it was evident they had tried all they knew, and by the time they were exhausted no doubt the poor fellow was past help. It was a mournful termination to his work in 7 A/ZAZZO VAEAA”.S. WOAZA. II 3 Japan, where he had shown himself a steady, energetic man, and a good foreman to the native masons. One of the carpenters was set to work to make him a shell; and the remains were taken down to Kobe by the first train next morning, and consigned to the grave in the little cemetery that already held some of our dead. As soon as the line below was opened for traffic, I could get a little attention paid to my own wants, and we progressed merrily enough all through August, as all arrangements were matured for immediate use of material when we could get it delivered. In the last week of August we tested the big bridge, the Chief Assistant-Engineer telegraphing that it was “O. K.,” to the bewilderment of the inquiring Japanese; and assisting in the ceremony of dedication, by means of champagne and soda water. We had a train of heavy girders and two of the largest tender-engines as a testing load ; and when we had finished the operation, the girders were run down to the next flood opening and whipped off the trucks, and were in their permanent places by the next evening. Meantime the Kiyoto terminus was progressing, the engine-shed, turntable and water supply being of course the first things wanted ; and my Japanese staff seemed really to enjoy having everything at hand as it was wanted, and feeling the work going on smoothly step by step, “dan-dan,” as they said, to its completion. Our only difficulty was the granite for the clock-tower and entrance arcade of the station ; and at last, when I had received all I wanted for this work, of uniform colour from One quarry, I relaxed in my demands, and I II.4. AAGHT YEARS ZM 3APAN. accepted some of rather inferior appearance from another place for the rest of the building. At one time the Railway Department had imported a professed quarryman with a view to get systematically to work and supply good uniform stone for their buildings ; but owing to some reasons not clearly stated, the man was never put to his proper work. What the Japanese call a quarry is in general a rough hill-side where they scratch for boulders big enough to split up with wedges into the sizes required ; and when they get an order for a large stone the whole strength of the quarrying gang are sometimes Scratching around for weeks in search of the required boulder; and if that is high up on the hill-side, when it is moved off its bed and rolled down, it may gambol away into a ravine or river, where it is so difficult to get at afterwards that a fresh hunt after another is instituted and all begins da capo. We opened the line as before stated on the 5th of September, and I had to shift from my little bungalow on the bank of the Katsura, into the city of Kiyoto again, finding a cosy little house within the precincts of the Ren-nin-ji temple under the eastern hill. At this time I was pretty nearly worn out, and all the latter half of August my strength seemed to ooze out of my fingers and toes. I had no chance of becoming languid; but exhausted and peevish I know I was, and night and morning I looked for any signs of a change in the weather. As I sat on the verandah of my bungalow among the mosquitos of an evening (I had come not to mind TAZARAD VEAA”.S. WOACA. II 5 these small nuisances), and looked over Kiyoto, I could see night after night the thunderclouds come up from the lake and hang over the Higashi-yama, as it seemed to me, lit up with brilliant flashes of lightning that darted about behind them and quivered right and left. But the clouds always retired again about midnight, and the next day opened with the same pitiless brazen SUI11. Almost simultaneously with my move into the city, however, the season broke, and we had a week of heavy rain, increasing hourly in violence, and a fine flood there was in all the rivers. Father Katsura rolled down foaming over his shingly bed and rose to within a foot and a half of the embankment top, sweeping away all the road-bridges, and bursting his banks and those of the Yodo river, where his yellow waves shoulder those of the Uji, the Kamo, and the Kidsu when they all come together under the walls of the old castle of Yodo. No damage was done on my length, the breaches being all below bridge; but many hundreds of acres of cornland were flooded lower down, the water running back to the hills and covering the main roads that skirted them. I went down to Katsura when the flood was highest, to look after things there, and had a little play with Some ugly-looking leaks through the banks near the bridge; but with stakes and sand bags we kept them up while the flood was at its height, and as soon as the banks burst below and relieved the pressure all danger was over. The farmers of the neighbourhood gathered in crowds along the banks, till called away to their flooded fields and swamped cottages; and many an II6 ZZGAZZ" YZARS ZV 9AAAAW. envious muttered comment or half dubious quaver of approval did I hear from them, as the yellow flood rushed harmlessly through the bridge. They were glad enough to have the use of it for some days afterwards, there being no other bridge left for many miles up and down stream, and the river being far too rapid for ferrying across till the flood had run off. Much damage was done also, I heard, in Tamba, where the waters were dammed up at the entrance of the gorge, and a lot of rice ground was spoilt. This is the place where the well-known “rapids” that foreign visitors to Kiyoto delight in are to be found—about eight miles of pent up, tortuous water-course, occupying the bottom of a narrow cleft through high hills. By in- genious adaptation of the natural channels between wild rocks, the stream is rendered just navigable for boats of curious construction, with flexible bottom and sides, barely kept in shape by one or two cross frames; or for long jointed rafts of timber that wind down the foaming reaches, bearing watchful guides, who know every cranny that affords a sure hold for their iron-shod bamboo poles, and every sunken rock and glassy sheet of water they ride over. The boats are paddled, poled, and steered by brawny armed, keen-eyed men, and the transit is well worth making, though in some states of the river rather risky ; that is, either when the water is so low that the rocks in mid-channel are not sufficiently covered, or when the river has risen so that the boat- men cannot see the points they depend upon, for an opportune push, that shoots them off at right angles in Some sharp bend, or a touch that keeps the boat's head ZºZº. ZD VEAA’’.S. WOA’A. II 7 straight for some narrow gap. To ride down in the first of a line of boats, and look back after passing a long reach of rapids and see the boats that follow come along plunging and yawing down the stretches of foaming water that appear among the crags, is good enough fun to warrant the walk over the hill pass out of Yamashiro into Tamba. This autumn was remarkable for a great “jishin,” or earthquake—in the official world, that is to say. The Japanese give this name to an administrative crisis that arrives periodically, it is difficult to say whence or why, and involves a re-construction of the ministry (always, however, composed of nearly the same persons, but with a different distribution of duties); a general dismissal of all officials in the government service, immediate re-appointment of three-fourths of them temporarily, that is to say, until the next “jishin ; ” and a strenuous effort to get rid, or get credit for getting rid, of foreign assistance, by all the departments. In this case, there was no difficulty in assigning a cause for the movement, which had a fully sufficient motive, and was, in fact, part of a policy the times rendered imperative ; that was, a policy of pure economy, in all branches of the government service. The deter- mination of the ministry in this respect was first shown two years earlier, in delay and reconsideration of the chief money-spending projects. Before 1876 it had taken the shape of a forced commutation of the pensions of the shizoku, who, instead of their regular incomes derived from the national revenue, had to take government bonds in payment of a sum supposed, in each case, to II 8 EIGHT YEARS IN }APAN. represent the capitalized value of their income—capita- lized that is, at from five years, applied to the largest incomes, to fourteen years' purchase as applied to the smallest. The bonds were to bear interest at five to seven per cent. ; which thus represented the amount of the holders' pensions thenceforward, varying from one quarter to the full sum previously paid. At the same time, by the establishment of National Banks, empowered by charter to issue notes against these government bonds deposited in the 'I reasury, the prospect was held out to the shizoku of gaining the higher interest to be earned upon capital commercially employed, and thus obtaining incomes equal to the Original Ones ; SO that they would ultimately be no worse off, while the national burden would be greatly lightened. In forming an idea of the justice of this scheme, irrespective of its political expediency, it must be remembered that in Japan ordinary loans on fair commercial Security Command an interest of about twelve per cent. per annum, and more in many cases, with but slight risk except from direct fraud, against which precautions can of course be prescribed. Now, this arbitrary reduction of the pensions of the shizoku was designed to enable the government to afford substantial aid to the agricultural classes, by whom a growing discontent had been manifested that threatened to become a real danger to the State ; and accordingly, the land tax, which had been equal to three per cent. upon the valuation of the bulk of the land under cultivation, was by Imperial Edict reduced to two and a half per cent. ; while it was also decreed that the local ZTAZZAC/D VEAA”.S. WOAZA. I IQ charges, amounting in some cases to another two per cent, should in future be restricted to one-half per cent. ; making the total burden upon the land for all purposes no more than the Imperial Treasury alone had previously imposed. This great boon to the farmers, from whom over four-fifths of the revenue was still to be collected, at Once extinguished the smouldering elements of civil disorder amongst the rural population ; incidentally rendering the vexed question of the mode of collecting the land tax, whether in money or in grain (which, according to the varying circumstances of price and means of transport and sale, constituted at times a grievance, whichever mode was adopted), of Compara- tively little importance from that moment, while the plentifulness of currency resulting from the note issues of the National Banks in course of time rendered the practice of collecting grain obsolete everywhere. At the same time, the commutation of the pensions of the shizoku not being practicable all in a moment, while there appeared to be grave reason for not delaying the relief afforded to the farmers, a decree of general economy in the government service was issued, and the amounts allotted by the Council of State to the various departments for the yearly service were cut down. Hence the “jishin” of 1876, of which it need only be said, as regards its political effect, that it probably aggravated the hardships the shizoku, of whom a large proportion are in government or local offices, had to suffer, while aiding, in appearance only, the financial pressure of the time; and if not actually affording an incentive to the I2O A. ZGAZ" YEARS IN 9AAAAV. discontented Shizoku to aid in the rebellion of the follow- ing year, yet probably was taken by the leaders of that movement as a ground for hope that the circle of their friends in the country was by so much extended. The great concession to the agricultural classes em- bodied in the decree of 1876, virtually settled the chances of the long-foreseen struggle of 1877, in favour of the government ; and in Spite of the minor evils that attended it, and resulted from it, must now be looked upon as a wise act of statesmanship, bearing directly upon the health of the body politic and effectual for its proposed ends. As to the “jishin,” our branch of the Public Works Depart- ment was affected to an extent that we were not fully informed of at the time—we, I mean, of the working staff; for in courtesy to the higher officials whose posts were abolished, the alterations did not come into force until the completion and state opening of the line to Riyoto, which was supposed to mark the termination of railway enterprise for the time being. But the arrange- ments that took effect in February, 1877, were all made in October, 1876, before which time rumour had assigned to our disposers in Tökiyö the intention to do away with the incumbrance of a director whose forte was finance and managers who were merely bank agents. Four of us, men of I873-4, had been somewhat sur- prised by an official inquiry, in the early part of the summer, as to whether we were willing to remain in the service after the expiration of our original agreements; and in view of the possibility that our work might be carried on under a simpler and more Satisfactory system of administration, we had returned an affirmative answer ; THIRD YAR'S WORK. I 2 I and three of us, the elder and younger Toms and myself, had entered into fresh agreements, for another three years in the latter two cases. The elder Tom made a different arrangement, probably being better informed than we were Owing to his proximity to head-quarters; and the fourth man was ultimately obliged to retire, as by the time his original agreement expired, further changes in the views of the authorities had come about. The other three men of our date departed from Japan before the end of 1876; and the Chief Assistant-Engineer went away to Tökiyö, relieving the elder Tom, who returned to Kobe to do duty for a time in a local charge. I 22 Z/GAT YEARS ZAV 34AAAW. CHAPTER VI. COMPLETION OF THE ÖSAKA-KIYOTO RAILWAY-THE GREAT REBELLION OF 1877. THE opening days of 1877 were remarkable for the extreme uneasiness that was spread throughout all classes by the impending troubles. There were many who, mind- ful of the prestige of the great fighting clan of Satsuma, and believing to the full the rumours, not only as to the numbers of warriors ready to follow the lead of Saigo Takamori, but as to the disaffection of the shizoku throughout the empire, looked upon the overthrow of the existing government as a foregone conclusion ; and counted the strength of the navy, officered and manned almost entirely by Satsuma men, as so much more weight to be placed in the scale that held the resources of revolution. There were among the foreigners in Japan many who also believed that if armed rebellion once broke out, it would be impossible to re-establish peace unless either the Satsuma leaders were victorious, or the whole shizoku class destroyed ; and who justly looked upon this latter consummation as not within the bounds of reasonable probability. It was supposed that the standing army at the disposal of the government was in- COMPZZZZOM OF 7//E ÖSAA 4-AZYô7 O RAZZ WA Y. I23 efficient; and that the policy of recruiting it from among the “heimin’” or unprivileged classes would show dis- astrous results when the old fighting men arrayed them- Selves generally, as was expected, on the other side. The announced visit of the Mikado to Kiyoto, nearer by some three or four hundred miles than the official capital to the Scene of the expected outbreak, was looked upon as a piece of bravado that was not likely to be actually carried Out ; and the preparations that were being made for a peaceful pageant, that of the State opening of the rail- way, to which all the representatives of foreign powers were invited, were supposed to be merely a blind. How we did “jump around,” as the Americans would say, that month of January ! and by how many hours we were ahead of requirements at the last I should not like to say. The sort of “can't-be-helped ” way of looking at things, that seems to be the normal state of Japanese Officials, was changed for the opposite phase, during the prevalence of which every one gets hold of Something and does something with it; a good and re- freshing state of things, if only direction be not wanting to their efforts. It was required of us that we should have the permanent terminus ready at Kiyoto for the formal opening, if not for the arrival of the Mikado a few days earlier; and we were able to get our task finished and land his Majesty at the completed buildings. The Emperor left Yokohama by steamer with an escort of vessels of war in the last week of January, and after being driven into the Toba anchorage for shelter, as heavy weather was met with, finally reached Kobe on the 27th, and was housed at the post office. We had I 24 A/GAT YEARS ZAV 34 PAN. notice to stop all traffic next day, and run a special train through to Kiyoto, which was done in due course, the whole length of the line being guarded by police, and the stations occupied by detachments of troops. No great parade was made otherwise, but our Chief rode up on the engine, and all the engineering staff in charge of the line accompanied the train. My first sight of the Mikado was at Kiyoto, where, after the train and the platform had been cleared, we were drawn up in line beside the door of the Imperial carriage; and our little Chief Commissioner, who had been riding with his Majesty, stood opposite to us as the Mikado Stepped on to the platform and paused a moment. The Chief Com- missioner said, “Gentlemen, I am ordered by his Majesty to thank you for your care for his safety to-day;” where- upon we all bowed, and blushed like pickled cabbage, and when we recovered saw the august Cocked hat and coat-tails vanishing in the distance. Next day we resumed the traffic as before, to the temporary station, and a crowd of Officials of the house- hold department took possession of the permanent building, and prepared it for the Solemn function of the 5th of February. The offices were fitted up as with- drawing and reception rooms, and a sort of Stage was built out in front of the station, carpeted and hung round with tapestry, with a gorgeous throne all proper. All the approaches were decorated, stands for spectators arranged, and curious devices set up, such as gigantic lanterns, dwarf Fujisans, ships, engines, etc., with Venetian masts, strings of lanterns and flags, and so on, and the same at both Osaka and Kobe. The saloon COMPLETION OF THE ÖSAA 4-kyyāzo RAzzWAY. 125 carriage upon which the energies of the locomotive superintendent and the carriage department had been concentrated for six months past, was secretly run up to Kiyoto by night, as a thing “that mote not be prophaned of common eyes,” and No. 20 engine was painted and silvered up until she looked almost quite too beautiful, and the driver and stoker, even in their Sunday coats, were by no means congruous; so they were hidden in a grove of evergreen cunningly attached to the cab. My little house at Ken-nin-ji was for the time almost in the midst of a metropolis of diplomatic talent ; for the temple with its surrounding houses was made the lodging for all the ambassadors, and I never went in or out without feeling that I was a gross fraud, and that I Ought to apologize to the crowd who congregated round the entrance gates and discussed my personal appear- ance audibly, supposing me to wield the power of Russia or represent the hauteur of Spain. These were of course the visitors from the country, as I was well enough known by most of the inhabitants of that quarter of the city, and had even been caricatured, with an enormous eyeglass and a very Roman-nosed waist- coat, by Some local genius, upon the blank walls round the enclosure of the temple. I always suspected a certain shaven-pated blackguard, who used to come out of the chief priest's house and strike the hours upon the big bell, of this artless proceeding ; he devoted so much time to watching me as I paced up and down under the trees with a cigar on fine evenings. I had to make a special run down to Kobe, where I secured the last hat there was in the place, so as to I 26 FIGHT YEARS ZW 5AAAM. make a fitting appearance at the impending Solemnity. We had been warned that nothing less than dress coats and white chokers, with the regulation chimney-pot hats, would qualify us to stand over against the foreign representatives upon the platforms at Kiyoto, Osaka, and Kobe, subject to the gaze of thousands, while addresses were being presented and prayers recited. Of course Some priests were mixed up in the matter, as indeed has been the case elsewhere than in Japan on Occasion of railway festivities within my knowledge: for I remem- ber a certain first sod, the turning of which, hard by the most insignificant of Sussex watering-places, involved a prayer, a speech to a toast, and a tearful collapse, from each of three rival parsons. The morning, though bitterly cold until the sun was well up, turned out bright and glorious, and we soon warmed up as the Imperial train started away from Kiyoto, amid great firing of guns and shouts from the populace. We engineers had a compartment next the engine, with a friendly reporter and a pack of cards. At Osaka, a stoppage, and grave solemnities, firing of cannon, addresses, general enthusiasm, etc.; then en route for Kobe, where more solemnities were perpetrated and Admiral Véron and Mr. Thomas Brassey were presented, and the governor of the Hiðgo Ken lost his head first, and his Cocked hat and his north point subsequently, and various impromptu alterations of the programme were attempted by an enterprising person who had been pitchforked out of some election committee into a consulship. Then there was a grand scramble for lunch, laid out COMPZZZZON OF THE ÖSAAA-Azyözo RAZZ WAY. 127 in a room thirty feet by twenty, for five hundred people, One hungry engineer, who had been up since half-past five that morning, getting a French roll and a bottle of beer for his share. The word was soon passed that the Mikado had had enough of it, and wished to get out of the way of Mr. Consul as soon as possible. So after a brief wait while that gentleman was being dodged round the passages, and at last shunted into a spare waiting-room, we started back, making the best of Our way to Kiyoto without a stoppage. We arrived there safely, notwithstanding that we were turned through a siding at one station, instead of going by the direct line, insomuch that after charging the points at the rate of thirty-five miles an hour, we were not quite sure if we were all right for a few seconds : and afterwards were desolated by the barely averted destruction of our Traffic Manager's head against one of his own signal-boxes at Osaka, which would have spoilt all the fun we derived from hearing the ambitious consul's private address to the Mikado, read by our friend the reporter, who was the sole recipient of the document. However, we did the forty-seven miles in an hour and thirty-five minutes; say a rate of thirty miles an hour all through, which was quite fast enough for Our narrow gauge; and his Imperial Majesty was good enough to cut short the final ceremony at Kiyoto, so that we were free at half-past four or thereabouts. The prettiest feature of the whole affair, to my mind, was the conduct of the country people all along the route. Wherever suitable ground could be found outside the fence, about on a level with the rails, spaces had I 28 AZGAZ" YEARS ZW WAPAN. been marked off to be occupied by the school-children from the various villages of the district; some of these spaces extended alongside the line for half a mile together. Each school was in charge of its teachers and the mayors and principal inhabitants of the villages, and as the Imperial train approached and passed the bands of eager girls or wondering-eyed boys bowed their heads and rose again, changing the bright field of expectant faces into an expanse of black polls, and then breaking out again with the flush of accomplished ceremony as the little ones clapped their hands and gazed after the vanishing train. The successive move- ment of the different corps of children had an effect like the passing of a summer cloud across a ripening cornfield. wº. Then we had yet another journey to make to Osaka, for on that evening a banquet was given to the principal government officials and local authorities, in the city hall, whereunto we were bidden ; and here also was great enthusiasm. Our retiring director made a speech, in which he demonstrated that Tökiyö and Kiyoto being each connected with a seaport, and the coast service of mail steamers being now in the hands of a Japanese company, the main trunk railway was as good as completed ; and Our Chief sang his Swan's-song, and bade his staff farewell. A twenty minutes' oration by the editor of the Choya-Shimbun, who had come down from Tökiyö with the rest of the distinguished visitors, received (on its conclusion) the most rapturous applause from both Japanese and foreigners, though I don’t suppose the latter understood any part of it, THE GRAEA 7" RAE BAEZZZOAW OF 1877. I29 except the “soré-kara" and “so-shité,” which are about as much as if one should say “then * and “therefore.” Towards the end everybody began to make speeches, and address our Chief Commissioner as “Your Excel- lency,” on the strength of his appointment as Junior Vice-minister of Public Works, and the wise ones sought their hats and coats, and avoided the tumblers of champagne that were hospitably pressed upon the departing guests. We all had to go to Kobe, as there was no train to Yiyöto ; and somebody lost his boots on the way. It was for a time supposed that he had put them on the step to be cleaned, before he should get up in the morning, on entering the carriage; but at last they were found in the next compartment. And so finally we all got to bed and ended this eventful day. While, however, enthusiasm and loyalty were in the ascendant in Settsu and Yamashiro, the ill-omened march of the Satsuma forces had already commenced, and Saigo had issued his proclamation that he would “attend the Emperor at Kiyoto, with ten thousand men, to present a petition.” The government troops were already hurrying to Fukuoka, to seize the vantage ground of Minámi-ga-seki and bear back the tide of rebellion. The fortress of Kumamoto was invested, and the garri- son, the only show of Imperial authority in Higo, were pent within their walls. And Kido was dying in Riyoto, and his scared colleagues, the Ministers of State, were holding council by his death-bed. But those who wish to read the story of the great rebellion of 1877, may find a far more complete account K. I3O A/GAT YEARS IN JAPAN. of its causes, purposes, and ultimate fate, in Mounsey's careful monograph, than could be attempted here. Thére they may read the story of the desperate valour and ungrudging devotion of life and fortune displayed by the adherents of a cause fore-doomed to failure, as was afterwards seen, though at first it was promising enough ; of the steadfast face presented by the army, overmatched in the beginning, to its powerful adversary, till his progress was stayed and retreat compelled ; of the lingering collapse of the rebellion, staining the mountain fastnesses of Hiuga with uselessly shed blood ; of the waste of life and treasure that went on through that sad summer, till the 24th of September saw Kawamura reverently washing the severed head of his old friend Saigo Takamori, dead by his own hand on the slopes of the hill that was the scene of his first preparations, as of the final volley of his victorious opponents. It is only, however, with side aspects of the rebellion that we foreigners in Japan had really to do ; and it is not without satisfaction that one sees that the struggle was fought out in a fair field, between the representatives of two schools of political action that could not act together for their country's good ; and that no hireling aid or outside scheme came into play, but that when all was over there was no one of the victors who could not honour his worsted foe, no survivor of the vanquished who was tempted to look for sympathy and charity elsewhere than to his countrymen, or to refuse from hands no longer unfriendly the aid of which he stood sorely in need. The Satsuma men who revolted put their all, as Satsuma men, upon the struggle, and lost; 7HAE GRAEA 7" RAEAAEZZZON OF 1877. I 3 I and are now merged in a wider nationality, accepted from the beginning by the wiser of their own kin. My task at Kiyoto was finished, and my new Superior, the elder Tom, called me to Osaka to take charge of a portion of the open line for so long as I should remain upon his section. By the middle of February I was settled in a comfortable first-floor of a foreign-built house in the centre of the concession at Kawaguchi, with missionaries to the right of me, to the left of me, in front and, for aught I know, behind me also. The progress of events had pretty well cleared out the foreign trading community from Osaka; if I recollect rightly, there were only a tailor, a tobacco-buyer, and a Swiss who dealt in everything, from a pinch-beck pencil-case to a Krupp breech-loading rifled cannon, to represent the “red-haired and green-eyed ones.” Some few odds and ends of the scholastic or professional callings were there, and the remains of the once large staff of the Imperial Mint; but these were mostly at the other end of the city. All the best houses were occupied by the laborious and humble-minded Propagators of the Gospel, by the retiring Church Missioner, or other variety of self-sacri- ficing fishers of men; and the best church, of course, belonged to the Roman Catholics. I found plenty of work in the maintenance of the line, and renewal of some of the bridges, the timber superstructures of which were getting rather shaky already. The hardest thing, though, was the keeping up of a little branch line, from the Osaka station to a wharf on the Aji branch of the river; it had been in- tended to close this any time for the last two years, and I 32 A/GAZ" YZARS ZAV 5AAAAW. little had been done to it in the way of repairs till the increasing weight of the more and more powerful engines that we had to use raised the fear that they might be unreasonably detained in Some tidal ditch or other ; and then there were some lively juggling with beams and bedstones and new timbers to avert such a catas- trophe. This little branch had existed, in connection with a tramway to the Mint, for several years; but the bridges on the main line, which had not yet been completed so much as three years, between Kobe and Osaka, were already giving much trouble. As will be seen further on, the original mistaken policy of using bad native material ultimately led to enormous expense in renewals ; and our experience in Japan was almost conclusive against such a temporary economy as can be effected by making lines of important traffic on shoddy principles. In March and April we began to see some of the sad results of the fighting in the south : ship loads of wounded men were brought up to Kobe, and transported by train to Osaka, where a large military convalescent hospital had been established. The majority of the cases were sword cuts, and the shot wounds were nearly all in the head or neck; but this was in consequence of one of the peculiarities of the fighting, in which the spade played a great part. The district through which the Imperial troops began slowly forcing the rebels back towards the south, was of a broken and uneven surface, composed of knots of low hills commanding small stretches of open country, and of a loamy Soil, easily excavated ; and ranges of pits were dug by the THE GRAEAT A F BAE ZZZON OF 1877. I33 contending parties, who in a manner sapped up the slopes towards the positions occupied by their opponents. All sorts of stratagems were practised to get the men in an enemy's pit to show themselves, and give a chance for a successful shot; and great individual valour was displayed in sudden rushes and invasions of the enemy's ground on a small scale. When it came to hand-to- hand fighting, the rebels had the best of it, being better swordsmen than the army ; but it was a war of small parties scattered over a considerable space of ground, and at last the weight of numbers told, the government piling on fresh troops every day, while their opponents had to draw together and give ground. About the middle of April the siege of Kumamoto was raised, a junction being then effected between the army forcing its way south from Fukuoka and an expeditionary force that had been landed south of Kumamoto to take the main position of the rebels in the rear ; SO that Saigo could no longer hold his ground before the fortress, and one night slipped away into the hills to the eastward. At the same time, however, disconnected bodies of rebels appeared sometimes in rear of the Imperial troops ; and the worst lot of cases we saw in Osaka were a number of men suddenly removed from Fukuoka, in consequence of a rebel raid upon that place threatening the depôts there. These poor fellows were most of them in no state to be moved, and numbers died on the voyage, some in the train, and some even on the plat- form of Osaka station. Two or three times a week a train of wounded would be telegraphed ; and then the station was cleared, and the waggons brought alongside I 34. AAGAT YEARS MAW $AAAAW. the platform, a number of coolies with litters coming in and carrying off the suffering soldiers in sad procession through the streets to the castle. There appeared to be no lack of attendants or supervision, and So far as my own observation enables me to say, I think the arrange- ments were most creditable to the authorities and the medical staff, who must have had an enormous number of casualties on their hands by midsummer. At the same time we had crowds of troops coming in for transport to the front, some of the regiments being apparently composed of raw lads just taken from the hoe and manure-pail, and evoking pity by their evident clumsiness with the weapons supplied to them ; while, on the other hand, some of the bodies of police, converted into soldiers for the occasion, showed all the old martial bearing of the Samurai, and were found worthy oppo- nents, with the Sword, for the Satsuma athletes. The lower classes amongst the troops did good service too, it must be said, owing to their marching power, they being wisely permitted to wear the straw sandal to which they were accustomed; so that in the latter stages of the waning rebellion, the wearied insurgents were tired out, and harried into Surrender by the activity of the govern- ment forces rather than actually beaten in fight. It was impossible to withstand the evidence of undoubting loyalty and devotion with which the newly raised troops went forward to their perilous task ; whether they were the “shizoku,” who had the spirit of their ancestors to animate them, or the “heimin,” who only felt the immediate call of their governors to the work in hand. All anticipations, freely indulged in by foreigners 7 HE GRAEAZ" R.EAZZZZON OF 1877. I 35 chiefly, as to the outside assistance the rebels might receive from other discontented factions in the country, were completely falsified by the event. Though, it was known, disaffection towards the existing government was rife in some districts not far removed from the Scene of action, no substantial aid was afforded to the Satsuma rebels; partly, it may be believed, on account of the well- known bad faith of the clan towards its allies, whom it had ignored and despised after assured victory in former days, and more evidently because in other provinces the hopes of the people's leaders were rather based upon anticipations of winning more liberal conditions of government than upon any reversion to the old lines with which the action of Satsuma was associated. It is true that Saigo in some of his proclamations hinted at popular institutions, but nobody supposed him to know much about them or believed in his sincerity. Then the princes of Satsuma themselves held aloof from the rebellion ; and though maintaining what appeared to be a doubtful attitude, never committed themselves to actually disloyal action ; so that the clan appeared divided, though probably in case of success the rebels contemplated condoning their princes' reserve, and the actual leaders, the men of action, would have deferred to the ancient reputation of the house of Shimadzu and headed their organization with the crest of Satsuma. It may be said that the result was no longer doubt- ful, after the first failure of the rebel forces to reach Fukuoka, though the succeeding desperation prolonged the struggle and its attendant misery. No doubt the I 36 AAGHT YEARS ZW 5AAAM. resources of the government were severely tried. It is Ino slight task for a nation like Japan to expand a standing army of thirty thousand men into an active corps of three times that number, and conduct operations Over a period of eight months of actual fighting, involv- ing the use of all modern appliances of war in a country exceptionally difficult, away from the coast, to traverse. And to the public effort was added the misery of many helpless ones: pathetic tales came to us, from Tökiyö especially, of the utter break-up of households, whose heads had fallen in the struggle, or whose bread-winners were called away ; of women once possessed of happy homes, now destitute in the streets of the capital : of children once cherished, imploring, for pity's sake, of unknown passers-by the price of a handful of rice, or leave to lie for a night on the meanest mat that a roof might shelter. The conduct of the ex-daimiyös generally during this time was very reassuring, both as showing that they still kept up a more than nominal connection with their former territories and people, and as evidence that they could either originate, or respond heartily to, the idea of using their surplus funds in practical benefactions to the several districts. Most of them visited their former daimiates, meeting the head men of the districts in open and free consultation as to the local and general wants of the country, giving money and advice, and using their influence to check dis-, COntent. While these events were progressing, my humble avocations occupied me fully, though not exclusively; THE GRAEAT A2ZAZZZZON OF 1877. I37 and as the weather began to get hot, I found the work became rather a burden to me; for the climate of Osaka was sadly relaxing to my constitution, inured as it was to the rough living and scanty pleasures of the interior, so that in spite of running down to Kobe about twice a week, for a game of cricket and a plunge in the sea, I fell out of condition, and received a strong hint that I had better see the doctor. Truth to tell, he did not find much the matter with me, but only recommended a change; and I succeeded in getting a month's leave without a medical certificate, having been at work without a break, except for a few days in February of 1875, since I had first started up country. I suppose it to be the want of backbone generally, in the constitution of the Japanese civil service, if service it can be called, that causes the reluctance of the authorities to dispense even temporarily with working members, while idling members may idle to their hearts' content. I was, I will not say unfortunately, one of the working division ; and this month in 1877 was the longest “spell off” I had during the whole of my eight years and more, and just a half of all the leave I enjoyed during that time. However, I had now in hand the work of regaining my health, and I got away from all other duties rejoicing, the two Toms adding divisions of my length to their respective charges for the time I was away. I38 A/GAT YEARS ZW 9AAAAW. CHAPTER VII. HOLIDAY TRIP: NIKKö, THE NAKA-SEN-Dô, AND ISE. I LEFT Kobe for Yokohama in the WagºMaru, late the Oregonian, now one of the mail boats of the Mitsu- bishi M.S.S. Company, as formerly of the Pacific M.S.S. Company. My boy, or Japanese servant, who had been with me three years, and was an experienced traveller, accompanied me, and my baggage included clothing for all weathers, as my intended journey through the interior would take me into high ground, and the month of June is, moreover, the most uncertain in the whole year, including as it does the early part of the rainy season, the date of commencement of which cannot be reckoned upon within the limits of a fortnight or so. The passage to Yokohama was a disagreeable but Speedy one, the weather being overcast, with heavy rain at intervals and a rising wind. Not having been on the sea for three and a half years, I was unable to make a meal during the passage except on biscuits and soda-water. But thirty-three hours Soon pass away, especially if two nights are included, and when we were running up the Bay of Yedo on the morning of the 6th, AOZZDAY TRZP: N/AKO, 7 HE MAKA-SEM-DO, AND JSAE. I.39 I was quite able to enjoy the fresh breeze, and the changing views of the sunny coast—for it was bright weather again. We dropped anchor at nine o'clock, and I was soon on shore ; and driving to the station, took the first train for Tökiyö, where I put up at the house of my friend Hugo, whom I had left in possession of my quarters at Osaka. & The remainder of that day and the four next were devoted to calling upon my few acquaintances in Tökiyö and Yokohama, by whom I was hospitably entertained, and making the preparations necessary for my journey overland. My official pass, between Tökiyö and Kiyoto, covered the greater part of the ground I proposed to traverse ; but as I intended to go north at first, and work round west and south afterwards, I thought it best to get another passport for the whole journey, which was immediately granted on a medical certificate of a very general character, stating simply that my health might be improved by a trip in the interior. This I received On the IOth, and my preparations being complete, I took passage for Self and servant in the coach running from Tökiyö to Utsunomiya, the first large town on the great north road, about seventy miles away, to start the next morning at five o'clock. I was up before dawn on the I Ith, having to cross the city, a distance of fully five miles, to the point from which the coach started, and left Hugo's house at Shiba at a quarter-past four. The only visible inhabi- tants of that part of the city were the crows and the dogs, and a couple of storks flapping lazily along the castle moat as the Sun rose ; but a few people appeared I4O A/GAZ VEAAES IN 9AAAAW. as we went on, crossing the district swept by the great fire of the previous year, now already covered with new wooden buildings, amongst which the fire-proofs godowns that withstood the flames were dotted about, Some still showing the marks of fire, but mostly re- plastered and pointed up “better than new.” - We reached the coach office at ten minutes past the hour, and not seeing anything of the coach I thought for a moment that it might have observed a non-Japanese punctuality, and actually started without me ; but I soon found that the horses were still in the stable. The “coach * was a small covered waggon with leather springs, or rather slings; a rough but strong affair capable of holding, at a pinch, eight persons beside the driver and cad, or “betto " as he should be called. My baggage, rather too bulky, Occupied the box seat and the available space under the other places, and in addition to myself and servant there were only three other passengers, two old men and a young One, bound for Sendai, the most important place in the northern part of Japan. The horses, strong-looking ponies (one having been named “Iron Safe,” as a jocular person with a slight knowledge of English told me when taking the extra money for my baggage), were now speedily harnessed, and we started at half-past five, it being by this time broad day, and the streets full of people. We rattled along merrily through the squalid suburbs; then passed at a walking pace a vegetable market held in the street of the first detached village, and entered upon the monotonous flat Country beyond, an immense stretch AOZZOA Y TRIP: N/KKO, THE MAKA-SEM-DO, AND ISE. I.41 of rice land intersected by sluggish streams and dotted with villages. Every half hour or so we stopped to wash out the ponies' mouths or change the team at Some ricketty Shanty, cups of tea and saucers of sweet- meats being handed up for our refreshment and paid for with odd coins of any small value indifferently. Six hours of this fun brought us to Kuri-hashi, a village on the banks of the Tone-gawa, a large river with high flood-banks. Here we left our coach, and were ferried across the stream, and while another trap was being made ready and the baggage brought over we had tiffin. I had previously consumed some sandwiches, but feeling unsatisfied had a couple of eggs and Some bread. However, the superior comfort of the boy and my fellow- passengers, who had a regular Japanese meal properly served, made me resolve in future to follow their example when on the move, and I always afterwards had a Japanese tiffin. In fact, I developed quite a taste for rice and pickles, not even excepting the infamous “ daiko,” the dread of foreigners ; it being a half-putrid, half-salted preparation of large horse-radish, and the finest thing in the world to make rice go down, for if you take a piece and chew it well till the taste is all over your mouth, you would, I believe, eat anything else in the world afterwards to get rid of the taste again, so that four or five bowls of rice, one of which would stay an ordinary appetite without this ingenious seasoning, disappear with rapidity. While we were refreshing ourselves rain came on, and continued to fall steadily, so that the remainder of the day's journey was very dreary. The road runs I42 FZGA/T YEARS IN }APAN. through a long avenue of trees, interrupted only at the villages, cedars, firs, or cryptomerias, many of these last of great age, if size is any criterion. The ponies plodded on doggedly, and the driver went to sleep, or dozed rather, for I kept a look out ahead and at each of the narrow bridges roused him up in time for him to pull the trap straight; otherwise we should certainly have come to grief. Utsunomiya was reached at dusk, after thirteen and a half hours, including stoppages, for the seventy miles. We were soon housed in a large inn, full of guests ; and after getting a little dinner I went to roost, if a bed on the floor can be called a roost, hoping for few such weary days if the journey was to be of any benefit to me. All hands were up betimes next morning, but the couple of hundred guests at the inn were all on the road before I made a start, and then it was only ten minutes past seven. The morning was fine, but the roads heavy with yesterday's rain ; still we made good progress with two men to each jinrikisha. The fine avenue still continues on the road to Nikkö, my destination this day, and the main attraction that drew me northwards. A somewhat shorter road than that by Utsunomiya joins in at a long village called Imaichi, about eighteen miles from the first-named place. This also is bordered by trees throughout its whole length, and is generally considered to be the Nikkö road ; but the advantage of using the coach had induced me to go a little round- about, and so get more quickly Over three-fourths of the distance. At Imaichi I had tiffin, and then went on to Nikkö, HOLIDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE WAKA-SEM-DO, AND ISE. I.43 or rather Hachi-ishi, the town near the celebrated shrines that give the general name to the place. Here I found a good lodging at a house recommended by Hugo, avoiding the so-called “foreign" hotel, which, in my experience of Japan, means generally in the interior discomfort, dirt, bad food, and high charges. After a short rest, I set out to visit the celebrated tombs of Iyeyasū and his grandson Iyemitsū, the former of whom was the first Shogun, or Tycoon, as we used to style the person who was supposed, until our agents in Japan had fathomed the institutions of the country, to be a “secular emperor’ in contradistinction to the Mikado, whose functions were imagined to be exclusively “spiritual.” Iyemitsū, the third Shogun, was assassinated while visiting his grandfather's tomb, and buried close by, with almost equally splendid Surroundings. In my ignorance and imprudence I was struggling along alone, having passed the foaming river with its vermillion coloured sacred bridge, closed of course against the vulgar, as one of whom I traversed a second bridge within a few yards distance ; and was ascending the left bank of the river (which I am still convinced was the right way to go), when I was overtaken by my boy and a professional guide, who loudly remonstrated against my disregard of all precedent, and took me a round of uninteresting shrines and pagodas, and sites where daimiyos' houses used to be “when they were.” Then we came out through a gap in a broken wall upon a place where a building of some size had been recently burnt down, and found standing unhurt a tall black pillar with a gilt cap and bells, and two large I44 AAGHT YEARS IN }APAN. lanterns of cast bronze in front of it. The pillar was inscribed with characters of gold, supposed to be the names of pious nobles; and I took it to be quite a modern erection, but it was said to be two hundred and fifty years old ; that is, to have been erected in the time of Iyemitsū. Passing this we suddenly came out upon a rising causeway leading up to the main torii, or gateway, of the kind peculiar to Shinto shrines ; consisting of two massive pillars slightly leaning towards each other, connected by a cross piece mortised through them a little below the top, and by a long beam over all, which is additionally supported by a small slab resting on the centre of the lower cross-piece. Small torii are made of wood, large ones of stone ; but this appeared to be of bronze, or the stone cased with bronze. It was erected half by somebody and the other half by somebody else, whose names are duly inscribed on the pillars, but there is no explanation of what portion of the upper beams belonged to each subscriber. Passing this gateway, or portal, for gate there is none at this spot, we entered a court at the foot of a high flight of steps. On the left is a pagoda of five stories, most gorgeously carved in all the panels, and painted in blue, green, vermillion, white, and black, and ornamented with copper, brass and gilding. The effect of this rather barbaric display is extremely good in its situation, the lower part relieved against a dark background of cryptomerias, and the upper roofs and lofty metal spire against the sky. The style of architecture and of orna- ment is much the same throughout the buildings, AſO/IDAY TRIP: MIKKO, THE WAKA-SEM-DO, ANZ) ISAE. I.45 though the shapes and arrangements vary considerably, and consists of an almost infinite reduplication of a few elementary forms obviously dictated by the materials of the structure, which is wood alone for the essential parts; namely, round pillars, projecting brackets, straight beams, and Over-hanging rafters. The carving is almost absent from the pillars, which, however, carry gilding and metal Ornaments and fastenings; the main brackets and beams are carved with scrolls on the edges and faces; the rafters similarly, but on the ends only ; while the intervening panels and minor projections are worked in the most elaborate designs, representing gods and goddesses, monsters, birds, beasts, and flowers, besides the clouds and the waves, the forest trees, and the sun, moon, and Stars. The Colours applied appear crude and gaudy on a near view, but as seen from a little distance they have, On the whole, a very good effect; and the ornament generally is so disposed as to emphasize rather than conceal the main structural features. The roofs, as in all Japanese temples, are very striking with their bold pro- jections, lofty ridges, and graceful curves and Corners ; and are mostly covered with copper plates shaped like tiles, convex and concave alternately, with elaborately designed gable and hip ornaments. At the foot of the steps I was charged an admission fee of a few pence; and having ascended them, I was requested to put my pipe out, as the atmosphere of the sacred places was not to be Sullied by tobacco smoke ; and I consented with a sigh. The principal objects of the courtyard we now entered, called the lower Court, were a glorified stable for Iyeyasū, his horses, or such L I46 A. ZGAT YEARS ZAV 9AAAAV. representatives of them as may be supposed serviceable for his present purposes; and three closed buildings containing valuables, that are only displayed at rare intervals to the faithful, or others with cash. Then another flight of steps led us into the middle court, where are more closed buildings, and some bronze lamps and models of great value, brought from Corea, and Loochoo, or Holland even, as well as from places in Japan itself. The most striking thing here visible is the gateway and enclosing wall of the third or upper Court; the outer surface of the wall is carved in panels about nine feet long by six feet high, very boldly and effectively designed and coloured. The gateway is carved in open- work, with the designs made to show fair both inside and out, whilé the roof that surmounts it is ornamented with chased metal plates. Within the third courtyard are three shrines of great beauty, besides the principal temple, to which I was admitted upon removing my boots at the gate ; for this also has its special gateway and inclosing wall similar to those of the third court, but on a smaller yet still more elaborate design. The interior of the temple is unique in point of richness and ornamentation, and the general effect, if we can imagine it in a room about fifty feet long, twenty-five wide, and only fifteen high, is not a little like our House of Lords. Opening out of the front room is a smaller one, to which one descends by four or five steps; somewhat less imposing than the first, but closed at the back by three pairs of panelled doors, completely covered by highly worked gold, or perhaps gilt, plates. Beyond this no eye is permitted AſOZZZ)4 Y 7R/P: N/KKO, 7 HE AWAKA-SEAV-Z)0, AAWD ZSZ. I47 to see, though there is a large building behind, some fifty feet square, the roof of which is visible from the Outside. All around both these rooms are hung paintings and carvings in frames, and the ceilings are panelled and coffered and gilt, with small painted medallions in each coffer. After trying to take in all the splendour I gave it up, and with a bow to the priest who had completed Some observations, the import of which I confess I did not understand in the least, I descended the steps and resumed my boots. We then passed out of the upper court by a side gate, Over which is carved with great skill the figure of a sleeping cat, and mounted a long paved path and flights of two hundred and five steps in all, leading to the tomb itself of Iyeyasū, which lies higher up the hill behind the temple. At the top of the steps is a small courtyard, with a praying-room that is by no means remarkable; and passing round to the rear of this, a few more steps lead up to the platform on which the tomb is placed, in a space enclosed by a stone balustrade. The tomb is a circular base of three steps, in front of which stand the usual emblems, the stork, the lily, and the dog, in bronze. On the summit of the steps is a circular metal casket, with doors fastened by a most portentous padlock, and surmounted by a plain tapered pinnacle. Behind this rises the crest of the hill on the slope of which the whole assemblage of buildings is placed ; and the lofty trees with which, outside the courts, the hill is clothed from top to bottom, close in around the tomb, their gaunt trunks shutting out all external objects, and I48 A3/GAZ YEAA'S IN 9AAAAV. their clustering heads shading the simple casket and emblems, that contrast so strongly with the gorgeous elaboration of the courts and temples that serve as ante-chambers to the last resting-place of the great Shogun. - Returning down the hill, and noting as we passed through the three courts many objects that we had missed on the way up, and to describe which would require more learning than I am possessed of, we refreshed ourselves with a cup of tea at the outer gate, and proceeded to visit the tomb of Iyenitsú. This is somewhat different in style: though the general arrangement is very similar to that already described, the art displayed is of a decidedly inferior and debased character. Each of the three courts has its gateway and steps, the passage being guarded by four figures of terrible appearance, and crudely coloured, Supposed to represent the gods of all sorts and con- ditions hurtful to man, and prepared to hurl destruction On the sacrilegious intruder. The actual tomb is very like that of Iyeyasū, but is situated at the side instead of the back of the upper temple. We were shown some most gorgeous articles of furniture, ceremonial raiment, and ornamentation, pre- sented by various dignitaries in former times; but long before I emerged from the last gate on my return I was Wearied with the strain of the last two hours and a half, and glad was I to take a quiet stroll by the rushing river under the gloom of the trees, “my faithful pipe to bear me company.” As the sun disappeared behind the lofty summit of the Chiusenji hills I strolled home to an HOLIDAY TRIP: MIKKO, THE MAKA-SEM-Do, AND ISE. I.49 early dinner, and almost before the darkness had closed in I was asleep. On the 13th, I rose at five, and had the coldest bath I remember; and after breakfast superintended the arrangement of my baggage on the backs of four coolies, for we were now going into the hills, and had to trust to our legs for the next day or two. After some delay, caused by the difficulty of dividing into four equal loads an amount of baggage that consisted of one large port- manteau and several small cases and bundles, the lot was at last lifted, and we set out for Chiusenji, distant only three ri, or less than seven miles and a half, but with a climb of about two thousand five hundred feet to finish up with. The first part of the road was pretty easy walking, a stiff hill here and there as we followed up the valley, the road winding over spurs that run down from the hills on either side, thrusting the stream away and back with their stony bluffs. About half way we diverged from the main road leading to the Ashiwo pass, and ascending a steep hill, came down on the other side to the river again, here a small torrent rushing down a wide stony bed. In a nook we found a little hamlet called Umagayeshi (there is a place with a similar or identical name at the foot of nearly every celebrated hill in the country), and here refreshed ourselves, for the morning was extremely warm, and in the valleys there was no wind. From this place commenced the climb, the road leading for a mile up the steep bed of the torrent, crossing and recrossing the water by rude log bridges. Presently we came to a fork of the stream, and here the path struck up the intervening bluff by a I 50 A ZGAZ" YEARS ZW 5AAAAW steep zigzag amongst the rocks, made into steps by pegging rough branches across the footway. The pack- horse path was very circuitous, winding about right and left as the ground offered a chance of an easier incline, for the steps were very steep. I now found myself dreadfully out of form for all hill work, after my sojourn in the plains of Osaka, and had to stop frequently for breath : it took me an hour and a quarter to do the two miles from Umagayeshi to the top of the steps. About one-third of the way up we had a good view into the right hand gorge, where there were two water- falls in sight, not of any great dimensions; they descend the steep face of one of the dykes that separate the upper slopes of Nan-tai-san, the Southern of the two great mountains of the Chiusenji range, from the lower hills, rising into bold cliffs to the eastward. To the left of the path is a much larger waterfall, in a gorge of difficult access, where I did not adventure myself, as I was told that at this time there was scarcely any flow from the lake that feeds it. At last we reached the summit of the path, and a few minutes' walking brought us to the lake, a sheet of water about six miles long and two broad, four thousand eight hundred feet above the sea level, surrounded to the west and north by beautifully wooded hills. South is the gorge we had come up, and east rises the big mountain Nan-tai-san. About half a mile from the outlet of the lake is the temple and village of Chiusenji, a place quite deserted in winter. The village consists of several rows of guest-houses, and in the midst a range of six small tea-houses, in One of which, that boasted an upstairs HOLIDAY TRIP: N/KKO, THE MAKA-SEM-DO, AND ISE. I 5 I room, I took up my quarters, and lost no time in calling for tiffin. The air was deliciously cool up here, though I could see no snow on any of the hills within view. After tiffin and a short rest, I went out, thinking if I could find a path I would go up the big hill; but I saw none, and wandered along the side of the lake till I came to a tumbling waterfall, where a small stream was making a tremendous show and bustle down a rocky descent of about a hundred feet in steps and shoots, from the plain above into the lake. I went a little way into the plain, which I found uninteresting, covered with stunted wood and cut up by small wooded gullies here and there. Before me was the northern mountain Shiranesan, white with snow on the summit ; but I returned from here, and overtook two native hunters. They told me that there were lots of deer on the hills, and a few wild boar—they had got nothing that day so far, but were marching along with matches burning ; and after leaving them I heard two shots, and as my boy afterwards served me up what he declared was a wild duck, bought from these same hunters, I rejoiced, though wild duck in June had not previously been a thing within my experience. At the village I found that when on the plain whence I had turned back, I was half-way to Yumoto, a place famed for its hot springs and its bathing establishments, . of a primitive sort, and I was strongly urged to go there; but reflected that I had not too much time for all my projected wanderings, and that I had better stick to my onward route, at any rate till I had “broken the back.” of the journey overland to Kiyoto. So I only inquired about the way up the hill, and was told that the path I 52 EIGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. led up from the temple, by a gate that was only opened to males attended by a fifty-cent guide. So I sent to secure a guide, not knowing that he had already Secured me as a fifty-cent visitor ; and Solaced myself with a warm bath in the open air, the tub being placed on the shore of the lake ; and after having thus exhibited myself to the inhabitants of the village, who all came down about that time to pick up sticks or draw water, I dried and clothed myself, retired to dinner, and went to sleep early. Rose at 5.30, on the I4th, breakfasted—of course I should naturally,–and joined the guide, who had also in tow a young Japanese farmer, at the temple. I paid, and he unlocked the gate without asking the youth to subscribe, and we began the ascent about half-past six. For about fifteen hundred feet of ascent the path was up steps, like those of the day before, and very trying to my poor bellows ; so that, annoyed at having my exhaus- tion seen by the other two, I sent them on before, as I found that my easiest pace, when I was going at all, was faster than theirs. I had to rest every hundred yards or so all the way up to the first resting-shed, where I found the guide waiting, but sent him on again. The next thousand feet was even more severe, the path being amongst rocks and tree-roots, and frequently obstructed by fallen trees and interlaced branches. However, my wind improved as I went on and rejoined the others at the top of the steepest pitch on the hill. Thence to the summit we went forward together, over a path not so steep as before, but with scoriae under foot, very loose and shifting. We had long risen above the big trees, only stunted underwood, wild Cherry, and rhododendron cover- HOLIDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE MAKA-SEM-DO, AND ISE. I53 ing the slopes when not washed clean by rain or melting snow. A little before ten, I reached the shrine and resting-shed at the summit, where we rested a few minutes, and I tried to eat some sandwiches I had brought up ; but having no water I could not swallow them, so amused myself by looking at the inscriptions by previous visitors, and found I was 8175 feet above the Sea, only 3375 from the lake, which latter ascent had taken me just as long as one man had registered from Hachiishi; so I felt humiliated—nay, resentful. Around the summit there are several points from which on favourable days good views may be had ; but this day was very cloudy, and it was only through an occasional rent in the mists below that I could get a glimpse of the low ground. On the side Over against Shiranesan is a lofty rock, where lie some rusty Sword- blades, offerings of those who had used them in fight ; which would, I should have thought, have furnished a good reason for keeping them. We did not stay long at the top ; but commenced gaily the tortures of the descent—for of all the tortures ever devised for English knees, that of walking down a Japanese step-path is perhaps the worst. For the last thousand feet of the descent I expected to fall headlong at every step, being driven sometimes to make wild rushes off the path when I could get a clear line for Some big tree to pull up against; and when at last I stood in the road before the temple, having successfully negotiated the stone steps in front of it, I was fairly “pumped out,” and leant for a space upon my pilgrim's staff considering whether I should try or not to get to I 54 A ZGAZ7 YEARS ZW 9AAAAV. the tea-house without assistance. As the road was a dead level I concluded to try, and wound myself up to a sort of “post-boy's gallop" till I turned in and sat down for the boy to pull my boots off. Then getting a gulp of brandy and water, the effect of which stimulant carried me through a rub down and change of clothing, I tackled my sandwiches and rolled up in a blanket till dinner-time, when I extracted a pint bottle of cham- pagne—one of three in store for emergencies—from my box of stores, and polished off a couple of good moun- tain trout, brought from the river below Umagayeshi, for there are no fish in the lake. I had a touch of shivers later on, and took a dose of quinine. On the I5th, I started away early for the west ; but it was a bad start I made, for the fever that threatened last night had hold of me, and I was too sick to eat any breakfast ; so took a good dose of chlorodyne. The baggage was carried by coolies as before, and we went back to the outlet of the lake; here crossing the stream, the path struck up the face of a wooded hill. I was as weak as a baby, and had to stop frequently, and twice sat down for ten minutes, reviving myself with brandy and the dew-drops off the leaves, so that it was more than an hour and a half before I reached the brow, little more than a thousand feet above the lake. Here I came upon a stream of clear water running off a long slack in the top of the hill, and promptly went down on my knees astride of it and drank greedily. I had gradually conquered the faintness as I came up the hill, and was so refreshed by the pure water that I went on easily from this, down a gently declining path which led AſOZIDA Y TRIP: NIKKO, THE AWAKA-SEM-DO, ANZ) JSAE. I 55 out suddenly upon the top of some rocks, where I found the coolies resting. From here was presented a mag- nificent view over the Nikkö valley and hills, and the slopes of Nan-tai-san. After this the path descended rapidly, through what I at once recognized as a “tulgy” wood, with little.breaks at intervals, on the ridges of the spurs, until I came out into the main road at the Summit of the pass, between Nikkö and Ashiwo, the latter being in the direction I was bound for. Down into the depths of a wooded gorge the road plunged, and we with it, by many a zigzag, Crossing streamlets from the surrounding hills, the junction of which formed the head waters of the Watarase river, running into the Tone that I had crossed at Kurihashi on my first day. The path Soon became less steep, and I found myself stepping Out gallantly, passing wooded and broken slopes, with here and there a little grassy spot tempting the traveller to rest; but I left my coolies far behind, marching on fairly possessed by the lovely scenery of the winding gorge and ever-growing river. Presently appeared little patches of cultivation, with here and there a hamlet where the rows of stripped mulberry trees evidenced the culture of silkworms. About one o'clock we reached Ashiwo, a small post- village, where the baggage was shifted on to a pack- horse, while I got some tiffin, not before I wanted it; and after a rest started on again through Scenery still more beautiful than that already passed through. The lateral valleys were bolder and more varied, and the river, now swollen to the dimensions of a fine salmon stream, was grand with its deep clear pools and wild I 56 A. ZGAT YEARS ZAV 5AAAA. rushes amongst the giant boulders. The road, very rough in places, wound up and down the side of the gorge, Over precipices and into gullies; but the scenery carried me along regardless of time or distance. I walked myself quite sound in the course of the after- noon, and arrived at Sawa-iri about half-past five, having done about seventeen miles from the top of the pass, a descent of nearly four thousand feet. I had done enough for honour, so looked about for quarters, found a good room in a silk-louse, a Lalli, all appetitC for the Liebig’s soup, poached eggs, and French beans, and sound sleep at nine O'clock. The 16th, at half-past six, on the road again, baggage on one horse, boy on another, as his feet were sore with walking, myself striding on in front. The gorge con- tinued with the same features for about five miles, when it suddenly widened into a good cultivated valley with a large village in the middle ; but a short distance further the hills close in again by the river, which we crossed in order to ascend the southern hill, and cut off a long bend and a very rough road under limestone cliffs. From the ridge we had a good view around three sides, before diving into a narrow valley of a rather commonplace character, wooded hills on either side, farmers' houses, with their gardens and mulberry groves, perched on the slopes, and in the bottom the young rice now being planted out, here and there an odd primitive water- wheel beside the stream, working a hulling mill. Pre- sently the valley opens to a plain, and traversing this for about a mile, I came upon the river again between cliffs of shale, with an inclined path to the ferry. AOZIDAY TRIP: WIKKO, THE WAKA-SEW-Do, AND zSE. 157 Another quarter of an hour brought us to Ömama, a large and thriving village, where, after some inquiry, we found a tea-house, at which it was possible to get some- thing beyond rice and pickles. The people confessed to having some eels in a box in the river, and while these were being sent for, we engaged jinrikishas for Mayeba- shi; and I got a salt bath for my blistered feet, apparently a new idea to the tea-house people, who lost themselves in exclamations as I put two good handfuls of coarse Salt into the tub, and appeared to like it. The eels, fried in native fashion, or rather broiled, were excellent; and after the baggage was loaded up, which involved a good deal of disputing, drawing lots, and journeys to the far end of the village for a bit of string and so on, we got away about two o'clock, Crossing a beautiful rolling country that reminded me of some parts of Kent. The road ran through hollow lanes and across stretches of golden winter-corn, past Smiling homesteads gay with flowers, and by copses fringing the winding streamlets. The only things that would be strange in Kent were occasional runs of rice-fields, and a few patches of cotton in flower. To the north-west the lofty Mikuni range showed dimly through thunder-clouds that lifted once to give me a glimpse of a towering and fantastic peak. At Mayebashi, a large town and the centre of the great silk district of Jöshiu, we changed vehicles for Takasaki, another seven or eight miles; and while the baggage was being shifted I caught sight of a red triangle in a shop, and was speedily outside the contents of a bottle of Bass, with a fervent blessing upon the name of that friend of humanity. I 58 AAGAZZ" YAZARS ZW 3/4AAAW. Leaving Mayebashi, we passed the site of the old castle, the last remains of which were being cleared away, only a part of the retaining walls of the old gateway yet remaining. Close to this is the Tonegawa, the great river of the plain, here rushing along a stony bed at the bottom of a cutting some thirty feet deep through boulder clay. The stream is very rapid, a long bridge of boats, moored with bamboo cables, having a decided downstream curve. We reached Takasaki at half-past seven, and found lodgings in an indifferent inn, where I detected the people moving a sick woman, evidently in a high state of fever, out of the best room to make a place for me ; but for obvious reasons I contented myself with a more modest apartment, and was soon at rest, after a long and tiring day. Rain was falling Smartly as I arose and breakfasted on the 17th ; so I delayed my start till half-past nine ; going to the post office for letters, but finding none. At the coach office, however, I received a parcel of coffee my boy had left behind in Tökiyö and written for. At a “tó-butsu-ya, ’’ or general shop for foreign articles, I captured half a dozen bottles of beer, for about eight shillings; and the rain clearing off, started away along the Naka-sen-dò (road of the central mountains), that I intended to follow till I should regain the farthest point I had reached working eastwards from Kiyoto in 1875. Takasaki, my new starting-point, is about as far distant from Tökiyö in a north-westerly direction as Utsunomiya is to the north ; so that after my first day's journey on the I Ith, I had been working round part of a circle with Tökiyö for the centre. HOLIDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE MAKA-SEN-DO, AND ISE. I 59 The first part of the Naka-sen-do I did not find interesting ; the road rose gradually up a long valley with low hills on eithcr side. To the left, however, some five miles away, are lofty and precipitous hills, and I diverged from the main road to visit Miógi-san, where there is a celebrated temple. Crossing the ravine in which the river now ran by a steep up and down path that Scarcely permitted the passing of jinrikishas, we went by a road winding through villages and cornfields into a dark wood lying at the foot of the hills, and soon reached a steep ascent, at the upper end of which was a large torii. Here we left the vehicles and found a little way beyond the top of the incline a small village, fortunately possessing a good tea-house, where, as the rain was now descending again Smartly, I utilized an interval for tiffin. The verandah commanded a good view over Takasaki and the plain whenever the showers ceased for a while, and on a fine day the place must be charming. The temple is close by, up a steep flight of steps; but I noticed nothing remarkable about the building except the extreme grotesqueness of the monsters that are carved on the woodwork. The situation is, however, most beautiful, at the foot of a wooded slope, Out of which rises a perpendicular barrier of rock several hundred feet high, broken up into fantastic forms like the ruins of some mediaeval castle. The rain hung about the Crags, hiding and revealing them at intervals, the Curious fragmentary clouds bringing the effect of the landscapes one finds on “kake-mono, " or hanging pictures, into mind. I had always Supposed the designs on these to depend rather y I 60 FIGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAV. upon the conventional shape of the piece of silk that receives the painting, and the imagination of the artist, than upon any intended resemblance to nature ; but this idea, which had been partly dispelled at Nikkö, was further modified at Miðgi. Here were the overhanging cliffs and floating clouds, and I could quite believe that the waterfalls, curiously crooked houses, and boats in unexpected situations, might be there also. No doubt the Japanese look upon these pictures as true present- ments of their most romantic scenery. As the rain continued to fall, I made my way back to the Naka-sen-dò, and went on to Sakamoto, a place situated, as the name implies, at the commencement of the steep road, the Usui pass, leading into the tableland of Shinano. As the afternoon was far advanced I rested here the night at a rather dingy inn, for the principal tea-house was taken up by a hundred Satsuma samurai, so I was told, as also that there had been over five hundred in Takasaki the previous night. I met numbers more, stalwart and determined-looking men, on the road; they were said to be bound for Tökiyö for some purpose not entirely unsuspected of disloyalty, and with the eyes of all the authorities upon them. They were journeying, so far as I could see, in the most peaceable fashion, and were probably persons on leave from scattered appointments or Occupations, bound for their homes in the south to see what could be saved from the wreck of the rebellion, now hopelessly stranded. On the 18th, I rose early after a good night's rest ; but owing to the non-arrival of the pack-horse that was HOLIDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE MAKA-SEM-DO, AND ISE. 161 to carry my belongings over the pass, it was past seven before we started. The village looked very pretty in the early morning, the stream running in a built channel down the middle of the street, having small trees and flowering shrubs planted along both sides. The place was busily astir, the men loading up the pack-horses, while children rushed about among the bales, whooping after the young Swallows that were taking their first flying lessons or sitting squeaking on the ground with an eye cocked up at the nest as if to say, “How the double-breasted dickens shall I ever get up there again 2 ” - I went ahead up the pass on foot, the boy following. The road in use was a new one, laid out on a better principle than the old one, that went zigzagging up the precipitous face of a prominent spur. I found the new one quite steep enough though, and after walking for nearly an hour pulled up for a spell and a drink of spring water from a cleft in the rocks; but soon resumed and reached the summit in five minutes over the two hours from Sakamoto, five and a half miles and about three thousand feet of rise. At the summit the boy went up to a temple to pay his devotions and get a ticket to show he had done so, while I looked round about for such views as are obtainable from this elevated spot ; but the ground is too broken for any compre- hensive panorama. I caught a glimpse of Asama-yama through the clouds, apparently an enormous height, so that I felt like the young swallows, being bound to get up there somehow. Diving down from the ridge a few hundred feet, we M I62 AIGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAV. came to a village, Karuisawa, and took vehicles to Rutsukake, a place from which I had been recom- mended to make the ascent of the hill ; but I could make out nothing satisfactory here, and went on to Oiwake, a village at a fork of the road, from which the ascent is most commonly made, and put up at a tea- house having an inscription in English over the door “Hotel for foreigners,” where I was given a good room, and served with a fair tiffin, but found that in some respects the place was objectionable. I then arranged for the morrow to go by horse as far up the mountain as possible; and thence walking up to the Summit. The ascent and return could be made, the guide said, in about seven hours; but I secretly resolved to take it easy. Then I took in my hand our former Chief's railway map and report, and sallied out to look for the route of the future grand trunk railway, described apparently as passing within a couple of miles of Oiwake. Returning along the Naka-sen-do for about a mile, I found a new branch road leading apparently in the right direction, and followed it down to a village called Yui- giving its name to the Yui-gawa, one of the streams that unite to form the river Chikuma, known, under the more general name of the Shinano-gawa, for its length of course, extent of watershed, and heavy floods : it is the largest river of Japan, and enters the Sea at Niigata on the west coast. Down the valley of the Yui-gawa I trudged, noting a long basaltic dyke in the hills to the southward, which from its direction I took to be a continuation of the Miógi cliffs; it runs at right angles to the chain of mountains crossed by the Usui pass. AſOZZZ)A V TRIP: WIKKO, THE WAKA-SEM-50, AAWD ISE. I63 As I went on, the gorge of the Yui-gawa became deep and tortuous, with lofty cliffs and deep tributary ravines; and after following the main stream for about an hour I lost my bearings altogether. A farmer, how- ever, put me in the right road ; but I suppose I lost it again, as, after another hour's walking, I came across the same man, who then told me that my best way would be to return by the road I had come rather than go on down the gorge. Being tired I took his advice and regained Oiwake, in heavy rain, after more than five hours of rough walking, and much knocked up. After a bath in the verandah, the preparation of which was superintended by all the ladies of the house- hold, a very mixed lot, who appeared annoyed at being turned out before I did “tumbies,” I resolved to lie off for a day and recruit my strength and heal my re-opened blisters before ascending the mountain. In the evening the landlord and his son came in for a little conversation about things in general. Amongst other matters they wanted to know why the English didn't help the Turks this time, as they did twenty years ago. I thought this pretty good, but my command of the language, though sufficient for common purposes, did not go to the length of a political discussion, so I shirked the subject, and appreciated the delicacy with which they refrained from pressing it; for I wasn't sure but what there was some humbug at the bottom of our undoubted caution, and like all Englishmen in the East, I regarded humbug as the very—well, well. I rose early on the 19th, and made out a good I64 FIGHT YEARS IN }APAN. four hours with a new Japanese book I had bought in Tökiyö,--but that was about all I did make out of it. After tiffin I took a little walk round about, and the weather clearing I obtained a good view of the mountain, which looked less formidable when the whole could be seen ; and I made a sketch to be corrected by the next day's nearer observation. I filled up the rest of the day by writing up my diary, and the evening by cursing a “yakamashi,” or noise of music and dancing, issuing from the apartments of some other guests, and keeping me awake till eleven o'clock. On the 20th, I made a good breakfast, and left the inn at a quarter-past six, mounted on a pack-horse— surely the most uneasy seat ever devised. My boy, who had asked leave to go up, walked on with the guide, and three young Japanese also joined the party, cutting across the open to avoid paying toll to the priests who have a little shrine and praying-house where the path leaves the main road east of Oiwake. There was also a coolie with a basket of prog, so that after leaving the horse and its man we went up six strong. First came a painful progress for about three miles across the lava slopes, where a rough path had been marked out by two parallel rows of loose lumps of lava and scoriae. This slope was well overgrown with grass and creepers, and here and there were small fir woods. Coming to a ravine with a stream of yellow water running down it, we turned along the edge of this till we came upon a small waterfall, with a cave beside it, in which we left the horse, and out of which we received 'stout staves to help our climbing. Then we crossed the HOZIDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE WAKA-SEM-DO, AND ISE. I65 ravine and followed the guide up a winding path with a green hill on the left. Presently we came to some ponds, evidently the source of the yellow stream ; the water was warm and smelt strongly of sulphur. Beyond this the vegetation became very scanty and the ascent steeper. In an hour after leaving the horse we had risen sixteen hundred feet, or nearly three thousand above the village, and now began the heavy work. We were at the foot of a steep slope of ashes, and right above us were Some rocks, part of the broken lip of a former crater. One huge rock lying apart from the others was apparently just poised on the brow of the slope, and we made straight for this. The first part of the incline was very rough, being composed of good-sized lumps of scoriae rolled down from above, and lying unsteadily on the ashes. These past, we came to a steeper pitch, the loose ashes of which were very unstable. Some of the lighter of the party got along pretty well, but I fell behind sadly, every step dwindling down to a few inches only of result, and frequently I slipped back downhill with a run. Those above me also disturbed the ashes as they went up, and I had to stand steady and field some of the lumps like cricket balls, getting my hands Sadly scored. This was a weary business, with the sun full on our backs, and a fresh wind blowing cinder dust across the slope. Time after time the whole party had to rest, to wash out our mouths with water, and let our throb- ing pulses calm down a little, and try and make believe that the rocks looked a little nearer. For two hours we toiled up this slope, till we reached I66 FIGHT YEARS IN 9APAN. a still steeper part above, which, however, was more quickly ascended, for this was the solid structure of the cone, and the hands could be used in climbing. At last we reached the rocks and sat down in a little hollow, where the ashes from the present crater had piled up against the inside of the former lip. It was only a few hundred feet from this point to the summit, SO that we speedily found ourselves at the edge of the crater, having taken a little over three hours in the climb since we left the horse. Though we had come up on the windward side, the fumes of sulphur were so strong that a minute at a time was all we could stay near the edge. The crater appeared to be about half a mile across in the widest part, the lower lip opposite to where we stood being several hundred feet lower. The sides are steep cliffs, of which we could get glimpses to an immense depth at intervals, as the smoke eddied about. We walked round the edge for some distance each way, getting views of the regions below through holes in the shattered rocks or piled-up fragments. Quantities of sulphur were strewn about the edge, and from some small holes at consider- able distances from the lip vapour was issuing, so hot that the hand could not be held within a foot of them. The guide offered to take me the circuit of the crater, but I had seen enough of the windward side to make me decline a visit to leeward. So after satisfying a non- Scientific curiosity by peeping into the Crater, and noting the ledge-like formation of the interior precipices, due, I suppose, to alternate additions by ejected matter, and degradations by weather, we retired to a little shrine of HOLIDAY TRIP: NIKKO, ZHE WAKA-SEW-Do, AND ISE. 167 blocks piled up behind a large boulder, and opened the tiffin basket. The beer I had worked so hard for went hissing down my parched throat most refreshingly, and prepared the way for the biscuits and Bologna sausage; and after a smoke and a talk we commenced the descent, by the way we had come. There was just one drift of snow left from the winter, lying under the rocks far away from the Crater, and almost hidden by blown dust and ashes. The steep rocky brow was difficult and indeed dangerous to descend, but the slope of loose ashes was more easily managed—our guide went down it like an express train, raising a cloud of dust that obscured him from view, until he stopped and it cleared away to let us see him quietly smoking a pipe at the bottom, where the rougher lumps began. I followed his example, striking out straight down the slope, almost as in skating, keeping the body lightly balanced and being ready with each foot for the next stroke, as the weight drove the bearing foot deep into the ashes. When we rejoined the guide he led us cleverly down over the rough ground, showing a practised eye for the best foothold, and we regained the waterfall at a quarter to two. Here most of the party went in for a sulphur and iron bath ; but I mounted the horse, and made the best of my way back to the village, reaching the inn at three o'clock exactly—by no means so tired as I expected, and feeling that I should soon recover my lost pedestrian powers. After I had replied to various queries as to what I thought of the volcano, I was introduced to a subscrip- I68 A/GHT YEARS ZW 9AAAAW. tion book, that I might contribute towards making a better road to the top of the hill. My modest donation swelled the total so far to about three pounds Sterling, so I dare say the road is not yet completed. After a bath and early dinner, I arranged to go forward the next day by the Komuro road, through Matsumoto, thus avoiding the barren plateau traversed by the Naka-sen-dò for the next twenty miles, the Wada pass beyond, the worst on the Naka-sen-dò, and the lake and town of Suwa. On the 21st, we left Oiwake early, and went gradually down by a capital road from the slopes of Asamayama into the valley of the Chikumagawa, crossing several ravines cut by the hill streams out of the clayey and stratified formation of the district. After passing a long village called Komuro, we skirted the river itself, here already a wide though shallow stream with a rapid fall over a stony bed. The hills on the far side of the river showed bold cliffs here and there. - By ten o'clock we reached Uyeda, a castle town of Some size. Here the river curves round the south and west of the town, running north through a narrow gap in the hills, first receiving a considerable tributary from the south. We crossed the river below the confluence by a bridge of boats, moored by a substantial wire cable, a rather remarkable thing to see so far inland, and found that the cultivated ground was protected from the action of floods, not by earthen banks, as in general, but by parallel lines of Stone walls. From this point we went slowly towards the western hills, skirting a long spur extending towards the entrance of the gorge through HOZIDAY 7 RIP: WZKKO, THE WAKA-SEM-DO, AND ISAE. I69 which the river flows. At Araku, about seven miles from Uyeda, twenty-seven altogether from Oiwake, we dismissed the jinrikishas, and took pack-horses, one for the baggage and one for me, the boy undertaking to walk ahead. The Hofukuji pass that lay ahead of us is a long one, some thirteen miles, so that, as it was two o'clock before we left Araku, I despaired of reaching Matsumoto that night. The pass turned out to be very high, as well as long. The first three miles were easy enough, but then the steep ascent began, and on reaching what from below had looked like the ridge, the road turned to the right gradually and hill after hill appeared before us, as we rose above the tops of the outliers. About two-thirds of the way up we stopped at a little tea-house to rest the horses; and here finding the boy looking very leg-weary, I put him up, and walked over the summit and down to the village of Hofukuji, about five miles. . . At the top of the pass, where I met a very cold wind coming across from the still Snow-capped mountains far away to the west, I turned for a last look across the ground traversed that day, towards Asamé, which stands out prominently in the view from this point, the little cloud of smoke being distinctly visible, at the distance of, say, twenty-five miles direct. From here the road dipped into a narrow well-wooded gorge with a rapid fall. About two hundred men were busy as I passed along remaking the road, which pro- mised to be a good one with even inclines, side drainage, and regular formation. As the progress of a pack-horse down hill is, if possible, slower than on an ascent, I7o FZGAZ" YEARS ZW 5AAAM. I reached the village far in advance of boy and baggage, and walked through the whole length of it, looking for a good inn ; but seeing that the only eligible houses were at the upper end of the village, by which I had entered, I turned back, and found all the rank, fashion, and beauty of the place turned out, under the guardianship of a policeman, to look at the stranger, for this being off the main road usually traversed by foreigners, I dare say they were not seen every year in Hofukuji. At the top of the village I met the boy walking in, having renounced his fiery steed after getting up to the top ; and as he had a letter to the head man, we were soon comfortably lodged. The baggage did not arrive till half-past seven; we had thus done forty miles, including the pass, in thirteen hours about—a fair day's work, on the whole, though we were still ten miles short of Matsumoto, where I had hoped to sleep. It was half- past eight before I had dinner on the table (borrowed, the table that is, and a wooden chair, from the village school), and though there was a clear fifteen hours between breakfast and dinner, I found my Japanese tiffin at Araku quite sufficient, but I confess to being hungry before I got it. On the other hand, I had done very little walking. I did not get away till half-past seven on the 22nd, owing to more than usual delay with the pack-horse ; and therefore found the walk to Matsumoto rather hot. We crossed a small pass called Kanawari-zaka, over a ridge that separates the Hofukuji valley from the plain to the west. On gaining the summit a very fine view was obtained over the whole watershed of the AſOAZOA Y ZZAP: N/AT&O, ZAZE AWAKA-SEN-DO, ANZ) ZSE. I 7 I Sai-kawa, a tributary that joins the Chikuma river about twenty miles below where I had crossed it at Uyeda the day before. I could now see On-take-san, the big mountain I used to see in the distance in 1875, so that I felt like getting home again already, though the roughest part of the road was before me. Matsumoto, which looks very pretty from the hill- top, with its temples and groves and old castle tower Shining above the trees, proved as mean and dilapidated as all the rest of these relics of feudal power when we entered it. Here I captured the only four bottles of beer the town contained before resuming my journey. Hence to Semba, or Seba, where I rejoined the Naka- sen-dó, is about eleven miles over a poor country, which just on this particular day happened to be crossed by a bad wind with heat and dust, so that the ride was very disagreeable. Semba is at the mouth of a gorge, Out of which flows the main stream of the Sai-kawa, and the Naka-sen-dò follows up this gorge for several miles. I therefore took fresh jinrikishas from this place —which is remarkable for possessing a very glorified school-house, three stories high, with carved panelling to the verandah—to Niegawa, a long village, said to possess good inns, as indeed do most of those on the main road ; and it was also a good place to get forward from, SO report said. I put up at a “waki-honjin,” or alternative resting-place for daimiyos of olden time, in case the chief honjin should happen to be occupied ; and had a good room looking into a pretty garden, which I had time to appreciate, as I got in early. I found it was not easy to get forward except by 172 A/GAT YEARS IN }AAAM. walking or pack-horse; but after dinner I brought to a successful end a negotiation with eight men, who agreed to find four jinrikishas, and take me through the Kisú-kaido (that part of the Naka-sen-dò which traverses the upper valley of the Kisó river, my Old friend) as far as Oi, say sixty-four miles, in two days, engaging to reach Oi in time for me to proceed another stage or two on the second day. The road was said to be good, with only two hill passes on it; as will be Seen, it turned out that these were the best parts of it. However, the arrangement was made ; and I soon slept, as all good people should sleep, without a dream or a turn till dawn. On the 23rd, started at a quarter to seven, and found the road good to begin with, only a broken bridge interfering with the run to Narai, a village at the foot of the Torii pass. Here the gorge turns eastward, and the road turning up the hill to the right, crosses the backbone range of Japan, here a narrow ridge between the upper gorge of the Sai-kawa, flowing west before turning to the north-east, and that of the Kisó- gawa flowing east before turning south-west, the streams being parallel, though, running reverse ways, and only about two miles apart. The pass takes its name from the gateway (a conspicuous object from the valley below) of a burial-ground and shrine close to the top of the hill. From Narai, the baggage—of which I had, in fact, too much all along—was distributed among the four jinrikishas, and I and the boy walked over the hill, a short and not particularly steep one. From the ridge AOZMZ).A Y 7R/P: N/ARO, THE AWAKA-SEM-DO, AMD JSAE. I73 a charming view southward is obtained ; the Kisó valley is here rather wider then it becomes lower down, . and the rich soil is laid out in arable fields. On either side of the valley rise wooded hills, above which arc Seefil snow-tipped peaks of great height in all directions. A vast tract of mountainous country contributes its waters to the Kisó, which, however, at the foot of the pass, where lies the little village of Yagohara, is a mere trout stream ; very different to the lower river, perhaps at this very time rolling down in heavy flood from the melting of the snows not far from where I stood. After walking into Yagohara, and giving the men a little rest there, we started afresh on wheels. Now, One would naturally suppose that going down-stream a tolerably easy road would be met with ; but the Kisó- 1zaido has apparently been laid out on the principle that it is good for man and beast to go up-hill as far as possible, and then down-hill as steep as possible. Accordingly the road climbs bluff after bluff until a precipice is met with, that offers a chance of a break- neck road down to the bed of the stream ; which being arranged the climb begins again. At first this was not very objectionable, as it afforded a variety of views more or less pretty, with the now foaming river as a centre to each and all of them, and I really enjoyed the first hour or two, though I fancy the coolies didn't. Here I saw for the first time in Japan brood mares and their foals together on the hill-sides. It appears that this valley, for more than a hundred miles in length, is a regular breeding district for horses; and in every village I saw large-eyed shambling foals playing about I74 A/GAT WAARS IN 9AAAAV. the farmers' doors, and starting into the kitchens as our jinrikishas rattled past. Before mid-day, however, I was too tired to enjoy the scenery, or take note of new things, for in addition to the up and down work, open drains to carry the hill rivulets cross the road every fifty yards or so, and the plunging into and out of them soon became not only monotonous but disagreeable in the extreme, besides shaking the linch-pins out at intervals, so that twice I came to the ground suddenly. At Tukushillia, a very up and down village, the inhabitants of which seem to make the high road a general store for anything inconveniently large to put inside the houses, so that progression through the street is like mild burglary, I had tiffin and a rest; but in starting again I ceased to pay the slightest attention to anything but the surface of the road, which absorbed all my thoughts. These became of a more and more improper character with each jolt, bump, and crash, as I found hips, elbows, knees, and back getting first sore, and then numbed and stiff; so that the frequent walks up-hill, that at first had been a relief to myself as well as to the men, became a penance. At six o'clock I could not stand it, or rather sit, any longer, so I left the jinriskisha and walked doggedly into Nojiri at a quarter-past seven, turning into the first respectable inn I could find, having been twelve and a half hours doing thirty-seven miles. - I went to bed thoroughly exhausted and bad- tempered; but on the morrow, the 24th, rose and started, refreshed in body and in mind resigned, at half-past six. While fresh I again found the scenery admirable, HOZZOA Y TRIP: N/AAO, THE AWAKA-SEW-DO, AND ISAE. I75 especially at the junctions of the side gorges, which seemed to lead down streams of clear rushing water from the very heavens. I resolved to keep fresh as long as I could, and therefore walked the greater part of the way in spite of the heat. We rested a few minutes at Tsumago, near the commencement of the Magome pass, where the road leaves the Kiso, as the gorge at this point and for some forty miles below is too rough even for such a road as we had been travelling to be made through it. The pass proved a long one, but, like the others, has had more attention paid to the preserva- tion of the road than at easier places, where the farmers seem to do as they like regardless of passers-by, making all sorts of obstructions without any control apparently. At the foot of the pass there is a choice of roads, and T, with the baggage following me, took the wider one, which was improved upon the other, that the boy followed, he having stopped behind for some reason, and not thinking to look for wheel-marks. Supposing us to be before him all the way, he stumped so vigorously up the hill that I found him at the top in a state of collapse when I arrived there. As soon as the baggage came in sight we started down the hill into the village of Magome, where the men demanded a long rest, the climb over the pass having punished them considerably. From this place onward we passed over the worst road in the whole world—I say it advisedly—and though fatigued with my morning's walk, I could not reconcile it to my conscience to sit behind those wretched coolies, over the ups and downs of the succession of cross ravines that we encountered; so I walked on as 176 AAGHT YEARS ZAV, 34 PAM, long as I could keep it up, in the blazing heat of a June afternoon. When at last we reached Nakatsugawa, which is the end of the very bad road, I indulged myself with a small portion of what I had paid for, but the exhaustion of the coolies was painful to witness. I believe they would have broken down altogether if an itinerant tea-seller had not come along the road. Each man swallowed down seven or eight good-sized cups of tea, with sugar, ginger, and nutmeg stirred up in it; this seemed to put a little life into them, and they struggled into Oi at a quarter to five. They fulfilled their agree- ment, so far as reaching the place was concerned, as there was time for me to make another stage or two if the means of getting forward had been handy; but upon inquiry it turned out that it would be a case of “Shanks his mare” again ; so I concluded to stop at once, and have a comfortable bath and a good dinner, and devote myself to getting over my fatigue before the morning. At the principal tea-house I found some very good detached rooms; but there being no private bath-room in connection with them I had a tub in the garden, and very refreshing it was. A bottle of Bass also came in very well, about this period, and my boy having time before him, went in for serious cooking with some Sll CCCSS. - The coolies, who had huddled together in a state of utter collapse on arrival, Scarcely speaking but fairly crying with exhaustion, recovered sufficiently in the course of the evening to come for the balance of their money; for which they had really worked so hard that I felt justified in giving them a tip, “sakaté” the HOZIDAY TRIP: N/AAO, THE MAKA-SEM-DO, AND JSAE. 177 Japanese call it (equivalent to “pourboire”), which sent them away rejoicing, and they were off before dawn next morning on the return journey. º On inquiry I made up my mind to leave the Naka- sen-dò here, instead of going the remaining thirty miles to Ota, where I should re-enter my old ground. It was a shorter route across the hills to Nagöya, which I hoped to make in one day, it being only twenty-three miles on foot, and thereafter fifteen in jinrikisha, so I calculated that evening. - On the 25th, up and off at a quarter-past six, self and boy on foot, the baggage on a pack-horse, specially selected on account of his being on the return road, so that he might be expected to step out for home. The early morning was too fine ; the Sun on Our backs far hotter than was pleasant, so that I was not sorry when clouds came over. We made good time to Kamado, having now diverged from the Naka-sen-dò and taken to the Ise-michi, a pilgrim's road leading Over a low watershed and down an almost continuous line of villages in a shallow valley. At Kamado, where we dismissed the pack-horse and engaged porters, rain began to fall, but we went on ; the heat was most oppressive and the road uninteresting. Plodding along through one of the dripping villages, with my umbrella set against the rain, I missed a corner and found myself out of the road ; but instead of returning I made a little round, losing a mile or two, but eventually reaching Takayama, my point for tiffin. Looking at my watch I was surprised to find it past mid-day considerably; but the discovery was soon made that the “ri" by IN 178 g EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. which I had been reckoning, usually only thirty-six “cho” of a hundred and twenty yards each, were here fifty “cho” long, so that I was in for nearly half as much walking again as I had expected. The rain set in heavily, and without any sign of coming change for the better. So warned by a slight chill and sickness, fore- runners of fever, I resolved to struggle out of it at any rate, though I gave up Nagöya then and there. It was dreary work, struggling over the hills, three successive ridges of which had to be crossed ; the roads were like rivers, and progress painfully slow. We crossed two good-sized streams, the upper waters of the Toki river that flows down by Nagöya into the bay of Owari. At four o'clock the rain suddenly cleared off, and a fierce Sun shone out as we struggled through the mud; this was very exhausting work, and I rejoiced when clouds came over again. The last ridge was ascended by a long easy incline, on which I was delighted to see the marks of wheels again ; the summit, on the boundary between the provinces of Minó and Owari, was reached at five o'clock, and another half- hour brought us to Uchitsu, where I dropped upon good quarters luckily, for I had walked over thirty miles, the greater part in heavy rain, and was quite knocked up. r Fortunately there was a hot bath ready, and I had not been five minutes in the inn before I was soaking therein; nor was I five minutes out of the bath, ere I was outside a pint of champagne. After this I smoked peacefully for an hour of almost happiness, when dinner appeared ; and thereafter a final cigar and a dose of AOZZDAY TRIP: NZKKO, THE MAKA-SEM-DO, AND ISE. 179 Japanese “saké” prepared me for the “füton,” in which I lay down, and was asleep in ten seconds. After a long dreamless sleep I awoke on the 26th like a moderate-sized man refreshed, and started away on wheels down an easy descent for the first five miles, sighting from the opening of the valley the castle of Nagöya, its tall keep shining out fair in the morning sun. The jinrikishas were very ricketty ones, and two of them broke down beyond the power of straw-rope, paper, and rice-paste to remedy their defects; so that these usual Japanese applications in case of any ailment to man, beast or machine being found wanting, there was nothing for it but to hire porters for the baggage, and step out. However, we reached the town, and the “Hotel du Progrès " —my old quarters in 1875—about eleven o'clock. The good people were enthusiastic, and I had much hard talking to get through before Miss Iku's inquiries after her English and Japanese friends of two years before were satisfactorily answered. There being an exhibition in full swing, I contri- buted my penny, which was about the full worth of the privileges of admission—for it was a poor affair, the only good things being some Shippo ware (cloisonné); the bulk of the exhibits were indifferent imitations of foreign goods and trade marks. The town appeared in no way altered since I last saw it; there was, however, a new post office, built in what is called in Japan “foreign style,” being foreign to all known styles of architecture. Here I inquired for letters, but finding none, telegraphed to Hugo at Osaka, and in the course of the afternoon received a code message, that is, a single I8O ZZGAT YEARS ZAV 34 PAN. word we had previously agreed upon, to import no change—the government not overthrown, nobody's house burnt down, nor anything else happened to cause un- easiness. - Then I did a little shopping, to wit, a dozen of Bass, and an umbrella, and returned to the hotel to fraternize with a melancholy globe-trotter, speechless as I was in my early days in the country, and in charge of a professional interpreter from the Hiðgo Hotel, at Kobe. He had been stopping in Nagöya for two days, and finding it dull had only just got up. We had dinner together, and afterwards a cup of sakê, at which Miss Iku assisted with her usual affability; so that the globe- trotter was both amused and educated, I believe. Upon the lady retiring with the remark that she felt quite drunk—which was not shocking, but merely a form of native politeness on taking leave—we discussed routes, and went to bed at eleven o'clock. On the 27th, I started away before seven o'clock, of course without seeing the globe-trotter. Had a fast run Over a level country, Crossing several rivers by bridges, at each of which there was a toll to pay, and reached Mayegasii, seventeen miles, in less than three hours. I was now on the way to visit the shrines of Isé, of which I had heard as most interesting but little known places —to foreigners, that is—as they lie Out of any usual track through the Country, though pilgrims in thousands come every year from all parts of the land, following short cuts such as I had travelled two days before, with false mile-posts to lure them on. I had originally in- tended to go by junk from Miya, the port of Nagôya, HOLIDAY TRIP: NIKKO, THE MAKA-SEW-Do, AND ISE. I81 to Isé, as near the shrines as possible, but found upon inquiry that this would perhaps not be so expeditious as the détour by land. From Mayegasii, however, there is a long ferry to Kuwana across the mouths of the Kisó and two or three other rivers that fall into the bay about the same point, cutting up the land into numerous islands. I had to take two boats, one with a single sculler for self and servant, and another with two men for the baggage and jinrikishas ; and we went down one river, through a long connecting Creek into a second, down that again, and up a third. The larger boat barely held its load, one of the jinrikishas being perched on the extreme bow, with its wheels just touching the water ; and as this suggested to somebody a similarity to a paddle-steamer, all the coolies took it upon themselves in succession to turn the wheels round for the whole distance, over five miles —of course with no useful effect whatever, but they kept it up with the gravity and persistence usually applied to the building of card-houses, the painting of nursery doors with pure water, or the shoo-shoo-ing in the manner of a locomotive engine, as practised by children. I have no doubt that they were very happy, and that it kept them out of mischief. We made Kuwana in a little over the hour, landing under the walls of the old castle, of which only one or two of the corner guard-houses were still extant upon the ramparts. This is a great timber-trading and boat- building place, and appears to be thriving, though shorn of its ancient glories and rivalled by Yokkaichi hard by, where there is depth of water for sea-going steamers to I 82 EIGHT YEARS IN }APAN. approach, and a brisk commerce is carried on. At the Ruwana honjin, a very good specimen of the highest class of “travellers' rest,” I was served with what was certainly the most delicately cooked and exquisitely dainty native meal I have ever had ; so I did not grudge the time they took about preparing it. It was very simple—egg soup, broiled fish, rice (of course), and stewed mushrooms with soy, instead of the universal “daiko,” and boiled bamboo root, as sweet as a nut. There is a ferry direct from Miya to Kuwana, about twenty-four miles, across shallows that enable nearly the whole way to be accomplished by poling, when the tide is up, and sticking fast and sleeping when it is down ; thus bridging over the gap that here exists in the Tókaidó, or eastern coast road between Tökiyö and Kiyoto. We went on from Kuwana along this road, through Yok- kaichi, and two or three miles beyond the latter place turned off at right angles, passing under a large “torii" that marked the commencement of the Isé-kaido, the high road to the shrines. All this afternoon, as we progressed southward, we met a gentle sea-breeze, that I gulped down with delight, after my up-country experiences. I suppose one never loses the taste for sea-air, even if one does not care much for the sea itself; and the same town that is renowned as the birthplace of Sayers afforded me shelter as a youngster, when it was supposed that to drink sea-water out of oyster- shell Cups might do me no harm, though it was next to impossible to tell what would do me good ; so I wandered many a day over the shingle, and disported my feeble tootsicums on the Sand, and learnt to know HOLIDAY TRIP: WIKKO, THE MAKA-SEW-Do, AAWD ISE. 183 the Smell of the ocean breezes, and love them at home and abroad. The road itself was a tedious and uninteresting one, Sandy and Soft; and running parallel to the coast, where a line of matsu trees, crooked and irregular, spoilt the Seaward view. We reached Tsu, another castle town, Soon after Seven o'clock, and found good lodgings, pro- vided with a most Sumptuous bath-room, every piece of woodwork and every utensil being lacquered. Left Tsu for Yamada on the 28th, the latter being the town adjoining the shrines, Isé being the name of the large province that borders the bay of Owari on its western side, and forms the eastern division of the large promontory called comprehensively Kishiu, and including several provinces between the bay of Owari and the Kii Channel. We dropped our baggage at a place called Matsüzaka, as I had no time to dawdle about now, in fact, I had already found out that I could do little more than skim over my ground, for it would take all of six months to do anything like justice to the places I had included in the trip ; and would require a much more solid preliminary education than I could bring to the task. So I Only intended just to “ have a look-see,” and come back, and Matsüzaka was a good point, so far as I knew, for a night's rest. About noon we reached a large river, over which we were ferried into Yamada ; and we fell with fury upon the shrines, finding quite handy that of the Goddess of Food, so far as I could make it out. Coming to a plain wooden fence about ten feet high, and noticing the gable ends of some thatched buildings, in my innocence I I84 A/GAT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. inquired what this was—and lo! it was the holy place itself | So turning the corner of the fence, I came to a gateway closed by a white curtain, on Some mats in front of which lay a number of coins of the smallest possible value, and also some little twists of paper, which might contain more valuable offerings, or might not. Before the gateway were several worshippers on their knees, clapping their hands in the usual praying fashion. As the curtain swayed with the breeze I could get a glimpse or two of a gravelled courtyard beyond, in which stood the aforesaid thatched buildings, and that was all ; there was no going beyond the entrance—for me, at least. Close by was a pond, said to be the effect of the first rain that ever fell upon the earth. A few broad steps led up the hill to a couple of isolated shrines, one on each hand, plain buildings of wood and thatch, strictly closed. Nothing could be less imposing, but from the demeanour of the people it was evident that they were regarded with the deepest reverence. Rather disappointed I re-entered the jinrikisha, traversed the town (the native newspapers had lately mentioned that a fresh supply of seven hundred—well, say waitresses—had been engaged by the enterprising proprietors of the various houses of entertainment for the pious pilgrims, in view of the approaching season), and out away beyond for about a mile, taking tiffin at a good tea-house Overlooking a clear stream and a green hillside ; and proceeded to the second, and greater shrine. - At a bridge across the river I found a big torii, or stone gateway, and dismounted from my wheels, as no HOLIDAY TRIP: MIKKO, THE MAKA-SEW-Do, ANZ) ISE. 185 vehicles are allowed to pass here. The bridge is said to be the first ever built, and all others are only imitations of it, which will account for there being nothing very noticeable about it—except lies, perhaps. Crossing the river, I turned along the bank, past a little collection of houses, the backs of which I afterwards found I had skirted, and then came upon a plain wooden fence as before, with an open gateway, through which we passed into a park containing numbers of gigantic trees thickly clustered together, and presently came to a clearing where there were some priests' houses, and two thatched sheds—one a stable containing two white horses, one living and one only a stuffed effigy, and the other, I suppose, a praying apartment. A little beyond was a high stockade, enclosing the shrine; the entrance of which was just like that of the first one, and closed with a white veil. I asked one of the priests if it were not possible to go inside, and committed myself horribly by telling him that I had been all over the Nikkö shrines. He smiled gently, and said that this was a very different sort of place to Nikkö—as indeed it was. However, he led me round to the side of the enclosure, and up on to a bank of sufficient height to enable me to see over the stockade. I found the enclosure was a triple one, the fences being about six feet apart all round, the central space being divided off into several courts, with six thatched sheds of the same kind as before, somewhat symmetrically disposed within. On each flank was a gateway, but in the outer stockade only ; at the rear, three gateways leading in a straight line for the central shed, all I86 FIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. carefully closed and secured. The whole place might be sixty or seventy yards square. The ornamental features were pairs of horns above each gable of the principal buildings, formed by pro- longing the end rafters upwards through the roof; the tips were protected by bronze plates. Across the ridges of the thatched roofs were round bolsters of wood, about six feet apart, bound with bronze or copper rings. On every post a bunch of twigs with strips of paper inter- twined was hung to a nail. Nothing could well be plainer—and I could not help thinking of cowhouses in a straw-yard. The buildings are designedly maintained in most primitive style, repairs being executed every twenty-first year ; when I was there I noticed that the thatch was in many places decayed and defective. One cannot wonder at the veneration with which these shrines are regarded, when it is thought that here, according to the tradition, or rather the myth, the divine ancestors of the human dynasty of Japan's rulers first descended upon the earth ; and that this is consequently the original fountain of the Shintô faith. After passing all round the enclosure, we visited two isolated shrines in the park, one of which I made out to be dedicated to the God of Winds, and is reached by another ancient bridge across the river, which here makes a right-angled bend ; the other shrine was near the entrance of the park. Each had an open shed before the door, to shelter the devout whilst praying. This was all that was to be seen, by a person of my previous information, at any rate ; so having no religious duties to perform, I came away, leaving the park by a gate AſOZZOA Y ZZZP; MIRA'O, ZAZ AAAA-SZAW-Do, ANZ) ZSE. 187 leading direct into the main street of a small village, consisting entirely of shops for the sale of mementos, charms, pictures, and so on, to the pilgrims. A din, the like of which I have never heard, except in the ring at Epsom, arose on our appearance, the women in the shops rushing to the front, and with theatrical gestures, entreating us to enter and buy, which we didn't. It was amusing to note the way in which successive dealers took up the cry as we passed down the street; voci- ferated, implored, expostulated, and finally complained, “So you won’t even look at our wares, won't you ?” as we passed by. Recrossing the bridge, and resuming our wheels, I started for a place called Fútámi, at the foot of a hill by the sea-shore, where are two peculiarly shaped rocks standing out in the sea, between which, at favourable times, one can see the Sun rise over Fujisan, some ninety miles away. All this, however, I only know from description, for on making some inquiries while meeting a little delay at a ferry, I found the place was too far distant now the day was waning ; so I turned back, not in very good humour, and made tracks for Matsuzaka. On the road I noticed a real stone arch of small span, quite an exceptional thing in Japan, where all the country bridges are of wood, or of flat stone slabs ; but occasionally one does find, even in remote out-of-the- way places, quite familiar signs of an unexpected kind. In two places far apart, and only two that I can remember, I have seen stone direction posts at some fork, with the hand and Outstretched index finger carved, I88 - FIGHT YEARS MAW 9AAAAW. as a guide to the unlettered pilgrim ; and found it useful to this unlettered pilgrim. On this road I also saw for the first and only time (though I have heard of the same thing being noted in Kadzusa, not far from Tökiyö), women drawing jinri- kishas along the road. For the credit of manhood, it was their own sex only who patronized their vehicles, SO far as I could see ; but the rights of women will alter all that by and by, perhaps, and leave poor manhood no credit for using his own legs, like a selfish brute, when he might find work for a woman's. There were many parties of pilgrims on the road, dressed in white garments, or what once were so, each headed by a leader carrying a long staff with bells attached to it. From Yamada of Isé (for Yamada, Oiwake, and a great many other names are as common as corners about the land) commences a round of thirty-three holy places, to visit all of which takes from three to six months; so that what with coming from the far ends of Japan, Some pilgrims are best part of a twelvemonth away from home. The length of a journey, however, probably concerns no one less than a Japanese farmer ; he has untiring legs, and infinite patience, and can live on frugal fare, and put up with the most primitive lodging, and, as their proverb says, “A thousand ri is but one step, or more,” so they go on philosophically and doggedly putting one foot before the other, and in time—lo l the task is done. The last of the thirty-three places is Tanigumi, near Akasaka in Mino, my head-quarters in 1875. I well remember the parties of pilgrims who used to pass AOZIDAY TRIP: N/AAO, THE WAKA-SEM-DO, AND ISE. I 89 within a dozen yards of my pillow, having completed the round, hung up their white garments, shaved, filled themselves with sakê, and started for home, roaring jovially along the road in the light of the harvest IIloon. At Matsuzaka, I managed to get a cold bath that was very refreshing ; as also was the innocent naïveté of the ladies who were taking their warm bath next door, with a common dressing, or rather drying-room for the two places. Any show of modesty on my part would only have hurt their feelings, I knew, so I did as they did, rubbed myself dry, with a good rough towel which they asked permission to examine, as it was so different to their little “tenugui,” of about two square feet of cotton ; and marched away to my room, like Adam before the fall. As usual I was awfully sleepy after the evening meal; and my boy's well meant attempt to make arrangements for the next day were frustrated by his finding me fathoms deep in slumber by the time he had found out the “lie of the land.” However, I was up early on the 29th, to decide upon the next move. I had intended to strike right across for Osaka, taking Nara on the way ; and my inquiries were addressed to the nature of the road, but this turned out very unpromising. Only the first twelve or fifteen miles could be done on wheels; the road was, moreover, said to be so bad that sixpence a ri– say twopence halfpenny a mile—per man was the lowest figure the jinrikisha men would hear of; and then I should have two days' walking across the mountains. On the other hand, I could get round by the Tokaido to Kiyoto, and thence visit Nara by a good road in no I90 A/GAZ YEARS ZAV $.4 PAN. more time; so I decided upon the “longest way round,” as being the “shortest way there,” and started at half-past seven. We returned by way of Tsu, and then struck off to the left by a cross road, sandy and badly broken, for Seki, on the Tókaido, missing about fifteen miles of that road from the point where I had turned off down to Isé. Just beyond Seki, I found the Sudzuka pass—it has always been in the same place, so that I had no difficulty in making the discovery—and was amused to find this hill-road, of which the people talk in Kiyoto as a great obstacle, because, as I suppose, it is the first bit of a hill one comes to, on a journey eastward, to be a regular imposition. I was up at the top in no time, and the men and the baggage were close behind : I should say it is not more than about four hundred feet of an ascent. We were now in the watershed of Lake Biwa again, and rattled along merrily down-hill, with here and there a little spur to cross, just to relieve the monotony of having it all one's Own way ; but still it was half-past seven before we reached Ishibe, where I thought I would put up rather than push on to Kiyoto, or Kusatsü even. At the honjin I found the best rooms at the back closed up, the sliding screens Sealed, and straw-rope with loops of paper and tassels of straw festooned across them. The Empress Dowager (who, though the greatest lady in the kingdom, does not happen to be the mother of the present Mikado—that honour is enjoyed by a lady of the court, generally called by the newspapers Mrs. Hosokawa) had recently rested here on her journey from Kiyoto back to Tökiyö, and the rooms she had AOZZOA Y ZRIP: N/AA O, THE MAKA-SEM-Do, AND zSz. 191 occupied were not to be profaned by common people. I didn't want the rooms, but I did want fresh air, which could not be made to circulate so long as these rooms were closed, so I left the house and went to another, where I also declined the best rooms available ; much to the astonishment of the host, who didn't understand how much better was fresh air than dignity to a foreigner. I pitched upon a very nice room with a garden on two sides of it, so that I could be cool; but by this time it was dark, and I did not get dinner till half-past nine, having breakfasted at six. However, all was right, and in another hour I was asleep, with “a fig for ” possible nightmare. On the last day of June, I re-entered ground pre- viously traversed, at Kusatsu, where the Tókaido and Naka-sen-dò unite; and by eleven I was at Kiyoto station. Between Ötsū and Kiyoto I was stopped five times by the police, for examination of my servant's pass ; for during the stay of the Mikado in Kiyoto no native could travel a mile without giving an account of himself, within a day's walk of the old capital. At the station I met Tom, with whom I had tiffin ; and then proceeded homeward, to find the dogs all right and everything prepared for my reception, for I had sent the boy on ahead with the baggage. In the evening Hugo came in, and we smoked the pipe of contentment together, comparing notes of our travels. The journey from Osaka to Nara, and thence to Kiyoto, or vice versa, has been so often described that I don't propose to record the commonplace incidents of the two days I devoted to it, after I had read all my I92 - A3/GAZZ" YEARS ZW 9AAAAW. back papers and letters, having still so much left of my month's leave. Other than commonplace there is nought to record, and by the time I returned I had my hands full, as I had to take over charge from Tom, who in turn went away to recruit his health; and I fell to work again with good spirits and feeling as if, should it be necessary to save the country by jumping over a lamp-post, I could indicate the man to do it. ( IS3 ) CHAPTER VIII. OSAKA AND TöKIvö (1877). AS I had my neighbour's length to look after as well as my own, I was very busy directly after my return, the first week being one of heavy rain and floods; but the extreme heat had not yet commenced, and the ther- mometer descended below 85° Fahr. every night, so that I did not feel like beginning any deduction from the Stock of health and strength laid in during my holiday. We took advantage of the summer nights to attend the fêtes on the river; for the military officials of the various organizing departments were collected in Osaka, and brought with them materials for gaiety and pleasure, in addition to stimulating the local supply of means for light-hearted dissipation. Frequently the bands of the depôts, stationed in barges moored in the river opposite the “pleasure quarter” of the city, sent the sound of their marches, quick steps, and waltzes echoing from bank to bank, while lantern-lit boats glided about with freights of laughing “geisha,” and the sellers of fire- works, and ice-vendors with their cry of “köri-köri,” paddled hihter and thither between the bridges. Few, perhaps, thought at such hours, of the day's work that O I94 AºAGAZZ" YEARS MAW 9AAAAſ. had been done down in Kiu-shiu, or of the lives that might be ebbing away under the forest trees that broke the moonlight as it fell upon the parched hill-sides of Hiuga. The Mikado returned to Tökiyö on the 28th July, exactly six months from the date of his arrival, a special train being run from Kiyoto to Kobe ; and within an hour of its reaching the terminus, the steamer carrying the Imperial party was pounding away towards the south as if the devil was behind it. People said that the Adžuma-kan, the ironclad that had been lying some time at Kobe, with a crew of Satsuma men on board, was looked upon with distrust; but I don't believe it was really the case. Any feeling of disloyalty that could take an active shape was already Out of date, and while the rebels of Kiu-shiu were surrendering daily by hundreds, the actual whereabouts of the rebel leaders was hardly known with any certainty ; they were scarcely now possessed of any serious power. The summer “matsuri" at Osaka and Kiyoto were carried on with more than the usual altitude of jinks. The Kiyoto matsuri, specially connected with the “Gion” quarter of the city, inhabited by singing and dancing girls and such like, not to be too particularly descriptive, was well worth seeing. About fifty of the most re- nowned beauties of Kiyoto, dressed in theatrical fashion to represent characters famed in story or drama, passed in procession through the principal Streets of the quarter to the great Gion shrine. About every thirty yards or so a short halt was made, and appropriate dumb-show gone through, to tickle the spectators' recollections of O.S.A.A.A. AAWD 7 OATVO. 195 the episodes with which the characters were connected, and evoke their applause. The various groups were of course surrounded with lanterns, so that it was difficult Sometimes to see what was going on ; but if one missed the point of any one display, there were others to come ; and so for nearly two hours the interest was sustained, as the procession passed between the rival hotels of Jiutei and Nakamuraya, and entered the precincts of the temple. So a summer night was passed in the old capital of Japan, a place made for all pleasure. I was very comfortable in my little diggings in Osaka during the hot weather; and had frequent visitors from Kobe, who looked upon my spare room as a “sure find * for a night's rest, for if there was a breezc stirring I could entice it in, and cunningly temper it with nets. But my work was drawing to a conclusion in this field, and in September I was summoned away to succeed the Principal Engineer in Tökiyö, formerly our Chief Assistant in Kobe and Osaka. He had been much broken up in 1875, when his old friend Sheppard died, and had many troubles on his head in the busy part of 1876. When he went to Tökiyö it was evident that his powers were failing ; and we were all concerned at his appearance when he came down to attend the state opening of the line. He was looking better when I saw him in the beginning of June, in his own house ; but my first news on returning to Osaka was of his serious illness, and after a hard fight of it, he succumbed on the 14th of September, the determining cause being cancer in the throat. He had been granted six months' leave, after Seven years' service, when it was known that he could 196 AAGHT YEARS MAW 9AAAAW. not possibly live to enjoy it; in accordance with the principles of the department. Every one felt the same about him ; the news of his death, expected though it was, seemed to bring men together in a common loss. So I had to hand over my charge at Osaka to the elder Tom, who divided it with the other Tom, and betake myself again across the stretch of sea between Kobe and Yokohama ; thus completing my journey back from the outlying appointments I had at first held to the metro- polis of the country in which I had now been working nearly four years. I was not sorry to do it; new work and new surroundings were welcome after the com- parative shelving I had experienced since the completion of my task in Kiyoto. - Before I left for my appointment, I heard of the actual termination of hostilities in the south. On the 24th of September, Saigo, the rebel leader, and a few of his chief supporters, with a small body of men, having eluded the Imperial troops when the main force surren- dered, and made their way to the original focus of the rebellion, at Kagoshima, were there attacked in the grey of the morning and destroyed to a man before the Sun was high. So the last act of this sad drama came to a close, and the last penalty of their crime was paid, in the currency that heroes recognize, by the mistaken leaders and the remnant of their misguided followers. If in days to come the hill behind Kagoshima, to which the echoes of the last volleys fired in the great rebellion, returned from the mountains that look upon the old seat of the Satsuma power, should become a familiar object to the sight or the tread of the foreigner, it will OSAKA AND TOKYYO. I97 be associated with none of the sordid struggles of the trading adventurer, or the jealousies of native and imported bankrupts ; but the shrine that commemorates the purging, by blood and fire, of a sin that could not have been committed for greed of any less high pos- session than the responsibility for a nation's life, will draw its votaries from all lands that hold in honour political courage, personal sacrifice, and faithfulness unto death. Already the wearied forces of the government were returning, as the field of operations narrowed ; but a long list of troubles was yet to be gone through, ere the accounts of the transaction could be balanced. Cholera dogged the steps of the returning army, claimed its victims within sight of their homes, and lurked around their doors for years after the fight was over. As the need for separating the healthy from the tainted became apparent, it was decided to land the bulk of the troops at Kobe on their return from the south, and march them overland to their homes, with every precaution to keep the pestilence out of the great cities. There was fear and trepidation in Kobe, as the crowded transports discharged their freight at the railway pier, and the ragged regiments passed away inland. But the season was already cooling, and the measures taken to check the spread of the disease were effective, so far as to satisfy reasonable expectation. While I was waiting in Kobe for my steamer (which was said to be taking a lot of soldiers direct to Yokohama, and as to the propriety of travelling by which I had my doubts ; but then if I went overland I should have pretty much the same neighbours all the way, so that the I98 A.IGHT YEARS IN }AAAAW. preference lay with the speedier mode of transit in the end), a sad accident occurred on the railway one night of blinding storm. The line being a single one with passing stations at intervals, in order to accommodate the troops some trains were duplicated, a special running in front of the ordinary train, so that two up trains had to arrive at a passing station before the down train might leave it, to find the road clear to the next passing station. Unfortunately, the special service was not continuous, but dependent upon the arrival of vessels with troops in port, and it was not possible to inform all employés of what trains had to be passed at any given station, though the station-masters, nominally in control, were of course in- formed and the usual precautions taken. It was, how- ever, a common práctice for the drivers to rely more on what they knew themselves than upon the station-masters; and, indeed, otherwise the traffic would have been subject to constant interruptions by reason of the defective experience of the latter, who, being all Japanese them- selves, relied upon the foreigner on the engine in a great measure. This system was unquestionably a bad one, though for the Ordinary simple traffic it was convenient under many circumstances; but there was little safeguard in case a driver became reckless or inattentive, or was ignorant of important facts outside his own instructions. It so happened that the driver of a return train of empty carriages waiting at Nishinomiya, the passing station half-way between Osaka and Kobe, for the single line before him to be cleared, and not knowing that a special was preceding the Ordinary train, took the former to be the latter, and assumed that he had nothing more OSAAA AMD 7'O KYYO. I99 to stop for, or perhaps didn't think much about it, for hearing a whistle, he took it for his starting signal, and went away ; and met the ordinary train full butt, within two or three miles. Undoubtedly the driver was to blame, for he did not even look back for the lamp signal which should have accompanied the whistle, and the absence of which should have warned him. As it was he actually left his head guard behind on the platform, very much to that gentleman's subsequent satisfaction. The night was one of furious wind and rain, and all efforts to attract the driver's attention were unavailing. So the catastrophe being inevitable unless by some happy chance the two drivers of the opposing trains should sight each other in time to pull up, notice was immediately wired into Kobe, and the heads of the staff roused up. I was then staying with my friend the Locomotive Superintendent, and owing to the bad weather, which kept us in the house, we had retired to roost early; but when my host called me up the storm was passing away. As soon as an engine could be got ready, and the doctor summoned, we were off for the scene of the collision, already reported from a wayside station near the spot where it occurred, by messenger. The two trains must have met almost at full speed, the blinding rain preventing the drivers getting a sight of each other's lights till they were quite close up. However, the very cause that assisted to bring about the accident in some measure, that is the storminess of the weather, also tended to mitigate its effects, in point of fatality. The down train, as already stated, was empty, the head guard left behind, so that only the driver and fireman were 2OO FIGAZ" YEARS IN JAPAN. in the way of trouble; the up train had been made shorter than usual by taking off half the third-class carriages, and the first and second class, usually in the middle, were now next the front brake-van, and they were both empty, as the weather kept the possible travellers in these classes at home ; so that the driver, fireman, and head guard only were in the way. Of these five men two were killed on the spot, the fireman and guard of the up train ; the driver thereof jumped and received severe injuries, but survived. The driver who was in fault was badly hurt, and died in a few days in hospital ; and his fireman ultimately recovered from very severe injuries. The smash was so complete, the two engines locking together and the trains mounting on to them, that until the wreck was pretty well cleared away so that the wheels and axles could be counted, there was no telling exactly how many vehicles were destroyed. The day after this mishap, with which we as engineers had only to do in the way of Setting things straight again, I left Kobe in the Saikāyā Maru, formerly the AWevada. We had several generals on board, one of whom, a bright looking man, who told me he had been at Cambridge, and had subsequently studied the military art under French tuition, gave me a capital account of the operations that brought the affair to a conclusion, and how Saigo and about two hundred men had slipped under his elbow, so to speak, and got behind his back into Kagoshima. He said he had been commanding the “heimin’” troops, of whom he was quite proud, and gave a very good report; with them he said he had climbed so many hills that he should OSAA 4 AAVZ) 7 OATVYO. 2OI be a good pedestrian all his life, and at that moment was ready to match himself against any professed mountaineer. We had a fine passage, and no sickness on board that I heard of but I thought the fewer inquiries the better—so that every one was in the highest possible spirits when we landed at Yokohama. The next three months were a time of almost unremitting worry and trouble for me ; and I had but little time to give to pleasure, or to bothering myself about the cholera, that in spite of all precautions had reached the capital. I had a staff with which I was totally unacquainted, to assist me in work that I had to find out everything about. My own cadets, that I had taken some trouble with during the last four years, I had to leave behind for the elder Tom, who made good use of them. The only English assistant-engineer had his special work to look after away from the head office. This was the renewal of the long bridge over the Rokugo river, the first and largest work of the renewals now required along the whole line; and was in itself fully as much as one man could be expected to look after. The new bridge, which was constructed on a different line to the old one, was virtually complete structurally when I arrived ; and after testing and connecting up with the existing line at each end, was opened by the Minister oſ Public Works, Mr. Ito Hirobumi, on the 29th of November, with some little festive ceremony. This was the largest iron bridge yet constructed in Japan, and was very creditable to Theodore Shann, the assistant- 2O2 FIGHT YEARS MAW 9AAAA. engineer, who had charge of the works under my two predecessors in succession, and who, owing to poor England's death, was the only available representative of the engineering talent employed upon it at the opening. More remained behind, however, as there were over forty other bridges, varying from some hundreds to one ten of feet in length, to be renewed ; and these were all on the existing line. Of general work there was no lack, and I had to go through my staff like a raging fire before I could get things straight. This little piece of railway of eighteen miles, the first constructed in the country, was a model almost of what things should not be, from the rotting wooden drains to the ambitious terminal stations, that always suggested by their arrange- ment the idea that they had been cast, from some region under heaven, with a pitchfork into the places where they were now visible. I also found that the ideas of work generally were very different in the metropolis to what we had been accustomed to in the provinces. I was so taken aback by what I saw at first, that I made excursions to various other scenes of building operations, and noted what was in progress, before I could believe that what was called work in Tökiyö was really regarded in that light: and it was only by getting the Japanese authorities to introduce piecework with a progressively declining scale of payment that I could succeed in approaching the efficiency of labour elsewhere. My native assistants were some of them of a dreamy temperament, and considered the first thing necessary in all calculations O.S.A.K.A AND TO K. ZYO. - 2O3 involving inches, was to reduce every dimension into decimals of a foot, to six places of decimals at least ; and then resorted to books of logarithms to throw Some light upon their subject. In this way about a week was required to ascertain how many bricks went to a given-sized wall. However, the joy that there was in the cadets' office over one sum that had proved amenable to persuasion was so great that one could hardly regret the ninety and nine cases that ended in as many absurdities ; and we did get along somehow. I had succeeded also to my predecessor's house at the Shimbashi terminus in Tökiyö, a good-sized resi- dence for a large family, being a pair of semi-detached houses knocked into one. The garden was large and tolerably well stocked ; and the situation pretty open and near the bay. Like many houses in Japan, it was a wooden framework disguised in the appearance of masonry by means of plaster, and as all houses do in Japan sooner or later, it came to a sad ending ; but this in its place—not yet awhile, thank goodness. So my fourth year of work came to its close, with much still to do in view before me ; and surroundings that, I was happy to find, only wanted a little looking after to ensure that my leisure moments should not be devoid of a certain recreative pleasure, handmaid of useful effort. 2O4. FZGAZ VEARS IN JAAAAW. CHA PT E R Ix. TöKIvö (1878). THE first few days of 1878 were by no means such as the Japanese love to find about the new year. The last two days of December and the first three of January are official holidays ; the 4th is appointed for a com- mencement of business, which means merely attendance for half an hour; the 5th is another holiday, and so on. The closing days of the year are supposed to be devoted to settling one's private affairs and providing for festivities, and the opening days of the new year are devoted to Socialities, such as complimentary calls and receptions. All persons of sufficient rank to entitle them to the calls of a large number of clients, subordinates, or intimates, provide a box and a boy to wait at the front door; and it is not necessary, unless some degree of intimacy exists between the caller and the “callee,” for the former to go beyond inserting his card in the box, and receiving the thanks of the boy for his politeness. In bad weather this business of calling is rather a bore, but many give themselves up to it systematically, which compels those who are not fond of exchanging 7 OKYYO. 2O5 civilities with ceremonious visitors, to go away for a week's shooting, or contrive otherwise so as not to be caught at home; and really bad weather is a nuisance to them also. This year it was almost constantly raining up to the 9th of January ; but at last it cleared up and allowed people to polish off all arrears. A walk through the streets of any large town, on a fine day at the commencement of a year, is rather an amusing experience. The good people pervade the streets in holiday garments, on calling expeditions; or, in the case of women, armed with battledore, they occupy any available space near their own doors and fill the air with shuttle-cocks, while children and servants fly kites. One's progress has to be warily conducted, unless it is a joy to be beaten on the back and smitten on the nose (always with profuse apologies), or harried by whirring things, or entangled in strings, or butted in the chest by smiling persons whose eyes are fixed upon some acquaintance who is returning their bow from the other side of the road. The babies, carried on the back, are the only beings who don't come to grief in some way, for the occasional delivery of them on to the roadway, over their mothers' shoulders, like coals, is of course merely so much practice for them against they are big enough to butt the stranger. On the 2nd of January was held the usual Imperial reception for officials of my degree, representative of the foreign element in the government departments. On the Ist, the Mikado receives the Ministers of State and the representatives of foreign Powers. We smaller luminaries assembled on the 2nd, at our different head- 2O6 A/GAT YEARS ZW 5A PAM, quarters in the first place, and then proceeded to the palace, where, after an interval of waiting, and being marshalled in file in a long corridor, where the risk of fire had been, I suppose, minimized, we marched up and made our bows to the Mikado and Empress. I never could see that either of the august personages did more than glare stonily at the bearded ones who advanced and retired with such assumption of dignity as lay within their powers; but perhaps I was veiling my orbs before the beaming splendour of the Imperial gaze when the wink, or whatever it was, of recognition accorded to my homage actually took place. The first year I was summoned to take part in this solemn function, there were over a hundred of us; the last time, but three short years afterwards, less than forty remained to represent the foreign element in the service of his Imperial Majesty's government. Of my work in Tökiyö during the next three years I shall have but little to say. It consisted, in addition to the routine business of a local charge, of the actual rebuilding of nearly every work throughout the line, and the carrying out of all improvements necessary to convert a very ricketty single line into a double line of railway, with all essentials and appurtenances of the best description, and worthy of the road between the chief city of the empire and its port. A special interest was provided for myself, in the gradual reduction of the foreign, that is to say, the experienced portion of the available staff, and the consequent modification of the modes of working at first in force. As it was the settled policy of the department to take advantage of 7 OAZVO. 2O7 every occurrence tending to deprive me of the assistance I at first received from foreign employés, and to compel recourse to the Japanese staff for the execution of all work, commonplace or critical, I was glad to find that this was pursued with Such an application of brains to the considerations of all points involved, that I never was called upon to set my own judgment aside, and accept risks that I could not accurately calculate the extent of. It is true that as Principal Engineer, with a staff under me supposed to include engineers of the assistant grades, I had, in fact, to become by degrees a sort of roving inspector or foreman, as my knowledge of what could be done by those under my orders suggested the particular points at which they probably could not do all that was required of them, without my personal superintendence. Every reduction of the foreign staff involved some redistribution of the duties of the rest, and some arrangement by which assistance in the more difficult part of the task to which a Japanese was newly appointed should be afforded to him by the remaining foreigners, and in the last resort, by myself; so that it occasionally happened that my Japanese staff, so far from assisting me, claimed my assistance in the discharge of their duties. It was a part of my responsi- bility, which I had always to recognize in my own mind, though saying as little about it as possible, to judge how far the person appointed as nominally competent to fill a certain post (frequently by a sort of “ Hobson’s ” choice) could be trusted to run alone, and at what particular moment he would find himself wavering to an extent 2O8 A/GAT YEARS IN }APAN. that made it advisable that I should be behind him to give him a shove, or at his right hand to supplement his want of experience or ingenuity. This was the weari- some part of the business, and I don't think the people themselves quite recognized it. I am inclined to think that I was so far safe per- sonally, that if any mishap had occurred it would have been easily connected with its true cause, and that I should not have incurred blame for placing in charge of works, at which such a mishap Inight arise, a man not thoroughly competent to replace his foreign predecessor, when I had no alternative, and simply was responsible for doing the best I could with what I had at my disposal. As, however, it was not desirable that any mistake should be made, I had constantly to consider what was actually due to be in hand at any particular spot and particular time, and contrive to get there in person, should it be requisite for the safety of the traffic that special precaution should be observed. At the same time, I must acknowledge that by this means, as I suppose by this means only it could have been brought about, I came to know the native staff so well, and the gradual progress of their powers so inti- mately, that the anxiety I felt in the first days of substituting Japanese for foreign foremen at critical points became greatly limited, and I could confidently entrust to some of my native assistants, after a time, work that I should have thought it most rash to place in their hands earlier. On the whole, it may be said that as regards the actual execution of work, the trained Japanese workmen and foremen are both intelligent and 7 OAZVO. 2O9 conscientious; and I had every reason, before leaving Tökiyö, to be satisfied with the progress made by the native staff generally. It is no slight matter to their credit, that from the time when I ſirst had to employ them without any intermediate supervision, until the renewals and doubling of the line were completed, not a single case of detention to the ordinary traffic, and but three cases of obstruction, so slight as only to merit remembrance because they were but three, occurred to be charged against the native staff. One of these was the placing of a block of stone temporarily, in process of shifting it, too near the open line, so that it was actually struck by the step of a passing engine, and the other two were failures to secure temporary erections so as to withstand unexpected gusts of wind that blew them over towards the railway and fouled the trains: in no case was any damage done that a few pence would not cover. We had, however, grave cause for anxiety in the wilful obstructions of the railway, by childish or malicious persons, that were at times occurring, and against which it was difficult to obtain any effectual safeguard. During the works of renewal and doubling, there was of necessity a quantity of material lying in the immediate neighbourhood of the rails, and offering the means to any person who might be alone or unwatched of putting an obstruction on the original line that was in regular use for traffic. Alterations and renewals of the telegraph line were also constantly going forward, and as this was in the hands of other authorities than those of the railway department, it was difficult to ensure the necessary precautions being always taken. P 2 Io EIGHT YEARS IN }APAN. I suppose few people who traverse day after day any well-known route, in London or elsewhere, consider to what causes, other than their own habitual vigilance and bodily activity, their practical safety is to be attributed : and it is only occasionally that some disaster, such as an outbreak of turbulence, an explosion, or breakdown of some vehicle, or fall of some structure, calls attention to existing sources of danger that seem on examination to be fenced round by insufficient safe- guards. To take an extreme case, there is nothing, for instance, in the way of precaution to prevent any man who passes by me as I stroll homeward with my evening cigar for sole companion, from blowing out my brains with a pistol from behind, if he should be so evilly disposed. - - The existence of evil, mischievous and wanton dispositions, is undoubted ; and there must therefore be some restraining influence that supplies the want of precaution in the vast number of cases. - It would no doubt be uncharitable in the extreme towards any person who doesn't commit a wanton outrage to say that he is restrained by fear of the penalty, or by the knowledge of the penalty; but I suppose it may almost be assumed now as an axiom, that our impulses in this day are the outcome of the experiences following upon impulses obeyed by our anceStorS. - We have progressed so far that it is as matter of instinct, not of calculation, that we exercise a mutual protection and forbearance; and the ignorance that permits the commission of a wanton crime is almost TO KZVO. 2 I I invariably of the type of mental incapacity, not mere want of education. As, however, we continue to pride Ourselves upon a certain adventurousness of disposition, and willingness to try experiments of a hazardous nature, especially before maturity has made us heirs of earlier maturity; so in peoples less advanced we may perhaps be right in looking upon wanton, or mischievous, actions as merely the evidence of yet incomplete mental stature, not exclusive of the possibility of improvement, in the existing generation, or the permanent advance of those Succeeding it. Just as here in England we hear from time to time of small boys who aver that they put a piece of wood or iron in the way of a train, that they might “see the engine jump,” so in Japan with children of a larger growth it is much thc same story. Indccd, so far as my own experience and observation go, there seems great reason to believe that many obstructions are created by persons employed as watchmen or gate-keepers, for the mere pleasure of seeing the obstruction smashed into fragments by the charge of the powerful machine at the head of its train. There is happily no instance of actual wrecking of a train by reason of such obstructions; but they were at one time so frequently met with, as to demoralize , the staff, and even one or two of the English drivers were more than suspected of romancing in their reports of obstruction on the road—one of them had what almost amounted to a monomania on the Subject. One case that occurred while I was in charge at Tökiyo, however, will always seem to me to be amongst 2 I 2 AAGAZZ" YEARS ZW 5AAAAW. the most remarkable of thoroughly understood events coming within a hair's-breadth of disaster. It was when we had a quantity of material for laying down the second line alongside the single line used for traffic; the timber sleepers were approximately in place, and the rails paired, but not fastened in any way. In the dusk of the evening—the time when such things almost invariably occur—Some person, or perhaps more than One, lifted one end of a loose rail and carried it round, laying it across the nearer rail of the running line, point- ing towards the next approaching train. It was then roughly propped in that position with some stones, to prevent it from slipping down if shaken by vibration from an approaching train ; and formed an ingenious preparation for a hideous smash. Yet no Smash Occurred, though the train ran into the obstruction at thirty miles an hour, the driver only sighting it in the twilight as he came round the curve that terminated a few yards away from the spot. What actually happened was this, as we traced it out by the marks on the engine. The life-guard on the off-side, the piece of iron specially designed to throw obstructions off the rail in advance of the wheels, caught the loose rail, throwing it round further across the line; owing to the far end of the rail being a little lower than the running line, there was a slight incline of the near end upward, that brought it against the inside framing of the engine, as it slewed round, just below the axle box of the near leading wheel, stripping a nut off a bolt securing the strap below the box. The sudden pinch slightly bowed the rail, and it glanced off, missing the TOKYYO. 2 I 3 wheel, and riding over the boss, or enlargement at the lower end of the brake-hanger in front of the near driving wheel, supported on which, and pushed sideways by the life-guard that had first Comc in contact with it, the rail was transferred bodily across the line, between the two wheels mentioned, and by the onward motion of the engine finally delivered clear of everything, on the near side of the road. Such an occurrence was not calculated to make things pleasant for any one responsible for the safety of the public; and of course the Japanese authorities were just as anxious as I was. There was some very tall talk amongst the staff, and the propriety of converting a field adjoining the spot where the train was not wrecked into an execution ground for the Occasion was mooted. However, it seemed that the most reasonable way of treating an outrageous crime was to show, if possible, to all interested, that justice need not deviate one step from her regular path in dealing with it, and that the penalty and its enforcement were commonplace as well as inevitable ; and this view found favour with those whose advice was likely to be most respected. Unfortu- nately we never caught Our Criminal; but the matter was a good deal discussed, and perhaps it is not strange that it was the last case of wilful obstruction of the railway for a long time ; SO that though no one was brought to justice, it would seem that the public con- science was stimulated. Of accomplished crimes during our own time perhaps the most remarkable and practically useless was the assassination of the Home Minister Okubo, in 2I4. . A/G#7 YEARS IN 54PAN. the spring of 1878, by some young men from the country. . Their objection, as formulated by themselves, to the continued existence of the minister, was that he did not appear to them to be wise in his administrative acts. They sallied out from their lodging, lay in wait for the minister's carriage on the road to the office of the Council of State about nine o'clock in the morning, stopped its progress by hamstringing the horses, and cut down the coachman, as a preliminary to murdering the ministcr when he stepped into the road to confront them. When they had accomplished their aim, they went on to the office where their victim was expected, and told what they had done; expressing at the same time their regret at having killed the coachman, which was only, they said, because they didn't know what else to do with him. They were secured without making any resistance, and ultimately executed. The remains of the murdered men were followed to the grave by a large cortége, including the foreign ministers and consuls ; and the display of pomp and grief was unaffectedly imposing. The coachman was buried hard by his master, in whose service he had lived his life. It was said at the time, and I believe it to be true, that many persons of high rank and Station in Japan are now driven about the streets in their carriages by men of a class far higher, according to native Social ideas, than that usually Supposed to Supply domestic officials of this kind ; and retainers who would formerly have been recognized as contributing to the dignity of their lords more by their presence than their actual services, TOKYYO. 2I 5 are content to exercise their skill and nerve, and guardianship, in a calling Ostensibly humble, but in no way exclusive of their self respect. As one result of this assassination, every little com- missioner or official in the government service in Tökiyö felt himself of sufficient importance to warrant his look- ing carefully round all the Corners, as he walked about, in case Some bumpkins should have come from the ends of the land to put an end to him ; but they were all pleasantly disappointed, and, on the whole, the mere disclosure of the circumstances of the crime obviated political excitement. As a reasonable matter of precaution, however, all the Ministers of State were provided thenceforth with escorts of mounted police, when they stirred abroad, and permanent guards to their residences ; probably to the extreme discomfort and annoyance of some of them, who tried again and again to induce their colleagues to dispense with this encumbrance. The story of the popular general who was endowed with a piper, by order of the Senate, and who found that functionary's too faithful discharge of his duties such a nuisance when it was not desirable to attract the observation of the people to his whereabouts, might perhaps be paralleled by some adventures of Japanese Ministers in search of a little relaxation from the cares of office, who found it difficult to give their faithful escort the slip; but this may be only Scandal. - Our Minister of Public Works, Ito Hirobumi, was appointed to succeed Okubo at the Home Office; and for a time Inouye Kaworu took his place, until called to 2 I6 FIGHT YEARS IN 5APAW. occupy the more important post of Foreign Minister which at this time of writing he still worthily fills. We railway men were gladdened in the spring of this year 1878, by the news that a small extension of the railway system had been authorized. True, it was only about ten miles; but it represented a departure from the absolute quiescence entered upon a twelvemonth before. Our Chief Commissioner, who though nominally holding the post of “third man” in the Department of Public Works, carefully eschewed all work not connected with his special branch, was for some two months in the capital making arrangements for this work, which indeed would have been earlier proceeded with had his previous exertions towards the same end been crowned with success. His frequent representations, and untiring efforts to give them a practical bearing, at last bore fruit in a sort of understanding that, though no extensive undertakings could be entered upon for some time to come, still a small amount of work might be kept in progress ; as without some field for action there was great risk of losing the benefit he had made such great personal exertions to foster in his department—that was, the maintenance of an efficient staff of Japanese engineers and administrative officials qualified to under- take the construction and working of railways. With this view even a small yearly extension of the railway system was of inestimable value, as a means of exercising and improving the Japanese staff, and keeping up the interest of practical work, without which the best and most active-minded of the staff could TO KZVO.'. - 217 hardly be retained in the department. The new piece, small as it was in extent, would afford the required field for the acquisition of additional experience, and exercise of ingenuity in dealing with new classes of work, including as it did a tunnel through the range of hills bordering Lake Biwa on the south-western side, and a series of heavy inclines, the working of which would be an introduction to the conditions attending any future extensions in the more hilly parts of the country. So that when the Chief Commissioner re- turned to Osaka with his official authorization in his pocket, and with the necessary financial preliminaries settled, a gleam of sunshine seemed to fall upon the neglected department, that might be the herald of a better time than had latterly been experienced. Though I was not myself in any way directly interested in the new work, there was more than a little Satisfaction in the thought of its practical influence upon the fortunes of the staff I had been connected with for the first four years of my service. Thomas the elder, who had originally surveyed this portion of the projected railways, and the other Tom, my old friend, were there to second the designs of the Chief Commissioner, and guide the technical part of the business to a satisfactory Conclusion. Meantime I had my own work—quite as much as, with my limited and still diminishing staff, could be carried on with safety—to attend to ; and current doings in Tökiyö to amuse my hours of relaxation. Just about this time many foreign residents in Tökiyö were a little harried by the police, the local authorities having been 2 I 8 EIGHT YEARS IN 5A PAN. roused by the Home Office to make an effort on behalf of interests connected with the foreign settlement at Tsūkiji. This place, set apart in accordance with treaty, as a place of residence for the foreign community as such, where they might rightfully acquire land and enjoy the privilege, if they desired it, of a municipal government of their own, had never been exactly a Sll CCCSS. As a commercial port, Tökiyö was of no value to foreigners, having no convenient harbour, the nearest roadstead being five miles away, outside the forts of Shinagawa ; and though a custom house, bonded ware- houses, etc., had been started at Tsūkiji, very little had been made of them owing to the superior convenience of Yokohama, less than twenty miles away, and connected by rail and water. With the exception of the American legation, one mercantile establishment, and a miserable hotel, the only buildings in Tsūkiji concession were the residences, Schools, or churches of the foreign mission- aries : the residences being extremely comfortable, and the schools and churches (always excepting those under the Catholic missionaries) being a set of mean little conventicles, all with a family likeness to the upper part of a toy Noah's ark, suggesting the idea that any person a very little over the ordinary stature might if he liked open the roof on one side and take out the parsons to play with. - An amusing law-suit had been tried in the American consular court, the defendant, an owner of lots in the concession, declining to pay his ground rents, on the plea that the Japanese government had, by allowing foreigners TO K ZVO. 2 IQ to live outside the concession, virtually deprived him of a part of the consideration he expected to receive in return for the ground rents; and though I don't think his contention was found to hold water, the local govern- ment did, in 1878, make an effort to sweep into the concession all outlying foreigners not having official residences. The move had but small success, but gave rise to a great deal of dodging between the transgressors and the police. Of course civil servants of the govern- ment were not interfered with, but the few merchants who had settled themselves in outlying places after Some one or other of the great fires that usually finished off in the concession, or the unaccountable small fry of impecunious waifs and strays that skulked about the Capital and picked up a living heaven only knows how, were subjected to considerable inconvenience. One man I know of hit upon the expedient, which was for a time successful, of getting a police officer to reside rent free in a corner of his house ; others induced their Japanese friends to hire them, ostensibly as clerks or teachers, and a little interest with a fourth or fourteenth class official went a great way. But such as Tsūkiji was, such it remains to this day, except that the missionaries have utilized the most eligible of the vacant lots as lawn- tennis grounds. One of the official events of this year was the “inauguration,” as it was called, of the Engineering College, an institution that had been in full swing for several years and had lately been somewhat reduced in its scope; but for some reason or other the personal interest of the Mikado had never been practically evinced. 22O A/GAT YEARS ZW 34 PAN. So a solemn function was contrived, and general misery inflicted upon a number of persons, august, exalted, eminent, excellent, commonplace, or otherwise. Being an officer of the department to which the college was attached, I was invited to attend, in a white tie and Swallow-tail, at 8 a.m., and share the monarch's sufferings till noon. First there were the usual addresses; then a per- ambulatory inspection of the establishment ; then five lectures by students, in which his Imperial Majesty was reported to be uncommonly interested—though it appeared to me that he looked around for a deliverer with an anxiety that in any ordinary person would have been almost comical. All the princes and the corps diplomatique were present. The group of professors, all in their caps and gowns, or at any rate in gowns borrowed from the Yokohama lawyers, was very picturesque. We had a good scrambling tiffin after- wards, and I was able to resume the jacket of civilized life about one o'clock, with a song of thanksgiving. This Engineering College, with its substantial buildings, noble central hall, lecture rooms, and labora- tories, has always been and is still a source of envy on the part of the Tökiyö Daigakko, or University, which includes engineering and the branches of mining, metal- lurgy, chemistry, telegraphy, as within its scope; but has to put up with a lot of ricketty wooden Shanties, crammed together in a corner, for its accommodation. A good deal has no doubt been done by these two institutions, the results of which may be yet seen in the industrial progress of the country; but if one asks in Japan to be 7 O.A.A. Y.O. 22 I shown a Japanese-bred engineer, it is ten to one the specimen produced has never seen the walls of either. The best students of the Tökiyö Engineering College have been sent, after obtaining the degree of Master in Engineering, to Glasgow to start again with a fresh education there. When they have done with Glasgow they will probably return to their native land and become professors in the college they started from, and the production of engineers will come in a later genera- tion ; or the second flight of passed pupils may be driven by stress of circumstances to qualify for that less showy calling. It is characteristic of the Japanese that they pay SO much attention to things done by their teachers, rather than to the things antecedent, that a Japanese student becomes an imitation of his teacher, so far as lies in his power. It is a natural result that the pupil of professors tends to become a professor, while the pupil of executive engineers tends to become an executive engineer. The one develops into a mathematician, a chemist, or a physical experimentor; the other into a calculator, a manufacturer, or a responsible director of works. It is an old controversy, that as to the comparative value of theoretical and practical instruction ; and it cannot be denied that either term, if used as limiting the character of the instruction, may involve more than a suggestion of serious deficiency. The ridiculous pretensions of some ignorant men who call themselves “practical,” as if it were to their credit to be without any theoretical com- mand of principle, have tended to obscure the real value of experience in the conduct of special operations that 222 FIGHT YEARS IN }APAN. repeat themselves, in slightly different forms, throughout the whole domain of applied mechanics; and, on the other hand, clever scholars who could sit down at any moment and write you off a chapter from Rankine are sometimes amusingly non-plussed at finding that, for all practical purposes, the theorems they have studied may be reduced to a few words bearing a strong resemblance to the ancient doctrines that two and two make four, and that every top must have a bottom ; Stated in terms specially applicable but with comprehensive significance. So far as we in the Railway Department had the oppor- tunity of observing the work done, in producing results in concrete form, by past pupils of the Engineering College, it may be said that there is promise of a full justification of the pains taken by their teachers, to be hereafter shown by the practical usefulness of those taught ; and that the cadets who have been actually educated upon work in progress will have to produce the result of private theoretical study in order to com- pete with them. So far as my observation, which has extended now over a sufficient period and field to enable me to state conclusions with some confidence, has led me to a knowledge of men and of work, this is just what we see everywhere producing in the aggregate the happiest results. The real value of the studies to which the pupils of the Engineering College have been intro- duced during their six years' course, will probably appear in due time ; it would be premature to expect academical triumphs to be immediately continued in the field of actual work. CHAPTER X. TRIP TO FUJISAN AND NEIGHBOURHOOD (1878). THE effect of living within view of Fujisan was of course to arouse a desire to get to the top of that conspicuous hillock; it is so aggravating to see anything high that we haven't reached the top of. So at last I could bear it no longer, and set out with a friend, who knew the way and undertook to manage the expedition, for a walk over the hill. We started on a Sunday morning—but for some mistake about the passports we should have been off on Saturday—in a two-horse waggon for Hachioji, about thirty-five miles from Tökiyö, up the valley of the Rokugo river, or, to give it a better known native appellation, the Tamagawa, so called from a “kori,” or division of a province, usually translated “county,” in which its head waters were situated. We rolled along at the rate of about six miles an hour, with occasional distractions in the shape of a walk up or down a steep patch on the road, or a precipitate exodus from the waggon when the wheels went through a bridge. We changed or didn't change horses—I forget which, but anyhow there was a row about it, which my companion 224 AC/GAT YEARS ZAV 3/AAAAV. attended to, as being specially within his province—at Füchiu, a considerable town about two-thirds of the way to Hachöji, and situated on the left bank of the river, as the latter place is on the right. Barring the abominable heat of the August day, we had nothing to note, except Some unaccountable Soldiers idling about apparently, in full marching order, in the open country, as to the meaning of which we ventured upon many conjectures, that subsequently proved wrong, every one of them. At Hachöji we had a late lunch in the Lop story of a tea-house, the lower floors of which accommodated at the same time about four hundred pilgrims, on their return from Fujisan. From Hachöji we went on a few miles in jinrikishas towards the hills, and arriving at the foot of these began skirmishing for a pack-horse to carry our traps, and after much scheming to save a few cents, succeeded in getting one, and started over the pass about five o'clock, in drizzling rain ; which increased as we ascended. This is called the Kobotoké pass (why, I don't know, as I was grumpy at the time, I didn't care to inquire, it was a pass, and Out of place, I thought, at five o'clock in the afternoon), and leads across the ridge separating the valley of the Tama from that of the Banyu. The climb was a short one, but justified a rest at the tea-houses on the summit, and the descent was a long and steep One, and took us into darkness in the valley, before we reached Obara, a poor village near the river. The question being as I thought quite unnecessarily raised whether we should stop here or go on, I gave my voice unhesitatingly for stopping, and we secured a room in a tea-house. Here ZRIP zo FUžSAW AND NEIGHBovKHoop. 225 were more pilgrims, for fifteen hundred had just arrived from the mountain, and we had great difficulty in keeping them off our mats. Of course in the hot weather no one thought of keeping up the partitions between the various rooms, so that there could be no privacy ; but we had good reasons for avoiding propinquity—it was bad enough to sit on the same mats as last night's batch of pilgrims. They couldn't hurt the water though, and we managed a decent bath ; and I suppose fleas don't like strong tobacco, for I was unmolested and slept well, while my nicer companion was tapped all Over and had no rest. As on our first day out we had only covered a portion of the ground we had hoped to traverse, we started be- times next morning, with only a cup of chocolate for breakfast—another mistake according to the tenets of one of the party—and walked, through constant rain, for about twenty miles Over muddy roads up and down hill, crossing the river Banyu twice by ferry, and ascend- ing again to the villages on the heights above. We had a little “chow” at Uyenohara, a large and apparently prosperous village, and Observed the silk-buyers cheating the country people gaily, it being market day. We were now in the Yamanashi prefecture, one of the most go-ahead districts of modern Japan, both in manufactures and agriculture; not to say general educa- tion and the imposing nature of its public buildings, each of which is surmounted by a sort of wooden pepper-box; the buildings are of various patterns, but the pepper-boxes are all alike. The roads in this district are wide and well graded, which is a surprise to any one approach- ing from Tökiyö, for the intermediate track is a mere Q 226 A ZGAT YEARS ZM 3APAN. bridle-path in most places, beyond Hachöji, almost impracticable for wheels. This was in 1878, be it always remembered; things may be very different now, especially as the Mikado has since journeyed this way. The clayey soil, however, and insufficient metalling, make the roads horrible in wet weather ; and it was nearly three o'clock when we reached Sarubashi (monkey- bridge), which we had fondly hoped at starting to make our first evening's resting-place. The proper name is Yayen-bashi; but the bridge is so lofty and (for native construction) of so large a span that by common consent the former name has been generally adopted. Here the river flows through a narrow gap in the rocks, not more than thirty feet wide at the bottom ; but the bridge high up above the water has a span of over a hundred feet, and is supported on projecting beams sunk deep into the rock on either side in tiers, three or four of which step out over the chasm so as to reduce the gap between their ends, spanned by the main beams under the roadway, to one-third of the length of the bridge. This bold and picturesque structure is already showing signs of failure, and will have to be renewed in a few years. - & We arrived wet through and exhausted, and finding comfortable quarters hard by the bridge, put up there, and with the hot bath, that God-send to travellers, soon made ourselves into contented beings again. All the rest of the day and all night it rained in torrents; so we stopped where we were, thus losing a whole day out of Our calculated progress. • * Next morning we started again in jinrikishas for Yoshida, at the foot of Fujisan on the north side, TRZP TO FO}/SAAW AND NEIGHBOURHOOZ). 227 leaving the road we had been so far traversing (to wit, the Köshiu-kaido, leading to Köfü, the chief town of the prefecture of Yamanashi, and beyond to Suwa on the Naka-sen-dò), about four miles from Sarubashi, and striking into a gorge to the southward, going still up the water. As the ground rose between the hills, the valley opened out upon the gentle slopes of old lava that form the base of the big mountain. There was some pretty scenery on the road, notably a double waterfall, like a little Niagara, about forty feet high only. Yoshida, which we reached about one o'clock, is surrounded by a beautiful stretch of open country, overgrown with grass and timber ; but it is a poor sort of a village. We lodged at a sort of temple, where the people did not much like to take us in ; but by calmly and politely assuming a dense stupidity, and taking possession of the best apartment, we solved the difficulty, and the people naturally fell back upon the arts of Swindling as a consolation. I am not one of those who object very much to a little mild 'swindling, especially as the native pilgrims are as much victimized as the foreigners ; and, therefore, enjoyed listening, without any responsibility, to my astute companion's efforts to evade and reduce the demands of the proprietors of the lodging and of the guides to the hill. Diplomacy, not to say misrepre- sentation, threats of returning home without attempting the hill, appeals to the police, and other artifices, were freely employed; and, at last, my friend A per- fected the necessary arrangements for ascending the hill next day; and we delivered our weary bodies to 228 - FIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. the fleas. I awoke frequently during the night, and counted eight hundred and seventy-two fleas browsing upon me; but I only chuckled, as I thought of the five thousand three hundred and forty-nine that I knew were in the bedding I had rolled up and left in the corner, and couldn’t get at me. - Foreigners do not often ascend the mountain from this side, the north, it being rather out of the way from the open ports, but A–– had been up before by the usual route, and had heard that this was easier—I don't say it wasn't, but next time I will go another way, too. On the Wednesday morning we sent the bulk of our baggage by horse to Gotemba, on the east side of the mountain, towards which we proposed to descend, hoping to reach it the same night. We took with us, however, rugs and coats, and a supply of food sufficient to sustain us, if detained on the top by storm or unforeseen accident ; and started forth from Yoshida by “kago" to a little place at the foot of the actual ascent, the first three ri (seven miles and a half) being across the “hara,” or wide slopes of lava covered with luxurious vegetation. It was, of course, raining heavily, so we stopped for nearly an hour at Uma-ga-ishi or -yeshi—I decline to pledge myself to the etymology. At the first sign of cessation, however, we set off, with our two guides following, for the path was plain enough, up through the forest that clothes the lower slopes of the actual cone. Every few hundred feet up, we found a temple, or tea-house, or shanty of some kind to rest in. There are supposed to be ten of them altogether, but the craft of the guides has so disposed TRIP TO FO}(ISAN AWD AWEAGABOURAOOD. 229 them that after passing, say three, and naturally sup- posing that you are getting on, you find an extra long Stage, and the next isn't number four—oh dear, no it is number three with a difference—and when you do reach number four, the fact is not obtruded upon you that you haven't yet climbed anything like a quarter of the way : So you go on, always calculating from what you think you know that you have much less before you than is really the case. It was nine o'clock when we commenced the ascent, and by eleven we reached the upper limit of the trees, and encountered the slope of bare ashes, scoriae, and rocks, that forms the rest of the way. Travelling over this was very painful and slow, and the rain-clouds surrounded us nearly the whole time, so that we had only a glimpse or two of the lower world to relieve the monotony. There was no water to be had above the fourth station, as the pilgrim season was on its last legs, and most of the upper rest-houses were closed ; SO we struggled on gloomily, reaching the lip of the crater at half-past four, and rewarding ourselves with a bottle of champagne. There was no view to be had, and there is nothing interesting in a degraded crater that has been quiescent for Over two hundred years ; SO, after climbing to the highest point, I2,365 feet above the sea, we started down again at five o'clock, much later than we had hoped to make it. . . . . The ascent, though fatiguing, was not nearly So punishing as I had expected ; and though it was extremely cold at the summit, where the Snow lay about in patches, I felt none of the nausea or difficulty in 23O AAGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. breathing that people generally talk about. But the descent was the very Just as I had found to be the case on Asamayama, the practice appears to be to plunge straight down the slope of soft ashes, and keep on down as fast as your nerve will serve you, and as Con- tinously as the accumulation of ashes in your boots will allow. Cunningly as you may contrive arrangements to keep them out, it is only a question of a few yards more or less until you have to pull up and eject them. As to the boots, I had heard dreadful tales of their destruction on this descent, where the usual thing is to put on straw sandals over the soles to save them ; but I am happy to say that a good honest pair of heavy shooting boots, properly dressed the previous night, served me well, and were almost as good after as before. However, though the boots held out, the legs didn't ; but after plunging down a slope of loose ashes, at an average inclination to the horizon of nearly thirty degrees, for the distance to the trees, a drop of some five thousand feet, I had to pull up quite exhausted. It was falling dark, and I abandoned all hope of reaching the bottom of the hill upon my own legs. My companion, a man of lighter build, could have done it, I believe ; but he waited for me, and we struggled down through the trees, by a path that would have necessitated some care in broad daylight and with good legs. This just about put the finishing touch to the proceeding, and on reaching what we thought was the third station from the bottom, by the aid of a lantern in which was burnt the only candle end we were provided with, I brought matters to a climax by finally taking off my boots, wrapping TRIP TO FU}/SAN AND AWEZGABOURAE/OO.D. 23 I myself up in a rug, and going to sleep upon some planks then and there. •, A——, who was enviably fresh and jolly, though he had been unwell all day, contrived to mix some chocolate, and woke me up to Consume it ; and with the addition of Some compressed beef, we made a meal, and I went to sleep again. By dawn we were on our legs—but for their being my only ones, I would have sold mine cheap —and we reached the foot of the path at six o'clock, the village of Subashiri in another hour, and after a rest and breakfast, recovered our baggage at Gotemba before eleven. Here we got a delicious cold bath, and considered the mountain “done”—I confess I used very much stronger expressions about the mountain. No one shall be able to say that I recommended to them the ascent of that disgusting mass of humbug and ashes. I believe it always rains on Fujisan. The people who maintain that they saw anything on or from the top of it are people I should like to have as witnesses against me, if ..I were tried for my life, rather than for me. The man who goes up once may be excused, if in other matters he is an average fool, so that you don't expect much from him ; the man who goes up twice should be put out of the world immediately he arrives at the bottom again ; and the man who will induce his confiding friend to accompany him up, on any pretext or understanding, is own brother to Judas Iscariot. I humbly thank heaven that I am yet young enough to look forward to the perpetration of many follies in days to come ; but if ever I commit a second time the folly of wasting a day and five pounds of even too solid flesh upon any 232 A/GAZ" YEARS ZW 3424 M. errand to the top of Fujisan, I consent to be a decorous dullard for ever after. - * As the season for ascending the hill was practically over in these last days of August, we met very few companions in lunacy. About half-way up we en- countered a party of about a dozen smiling and perspiring Japanese, who greeted us politely and volunteered the information that they had slept two nights at Gogo (you wouldn't think it perhaps, but that means the fifth station), visiting the summit in the intervening day. On the way down we passed three foreigners going up ; and another afterwards, accompanied by his wife and child of twelve, all intending to sleep at Hachigo (the eighth station), which was to be specially re-opened for them. There were also a couple of young Japanese wandering about, but whether ascending or descending I don’t know. They all know better now, I don't doubt. There being nothing to keep us at Gotemba, we made a struggle for Hakone, a place well known to foreigners as a convenient sanatorium in the hot weather, being up in the hills some two thousand feet above the sea, and always cool at night, as it is at the South end of a lake that seems somehow to invite a draught from the cooler layers of the atmosphere. A– walked, but I took a “kago,” to get over the pass, rather a high one, at least on the Gotemba side. Ultimately I had to walk myself, as the kago-bearers were Overtaxed by my weight, and made such slow progress that I should have been benighted on the hills again had I not resumed my legs; as it was, the last three miles, including the wading of a small river, had to be performed in TRIP TO FUžISAN AWD NEIGHBOURHOOD. 233 darkness, the coolies going in front and feeling their way, I following a piece of paper pinned on the back of the one immediately before me as a guide; and so we reached the end of Hakone lake, where A on his arrival before us had secured a boat, which took us down the lake and landed us at Hakone about half-past nine. - - - Blessed be the name of Hakoné! for here I found beer, my dealings with which, at the exorbitant price of sixty cents a bottle, scandalized poor A–– horribly. We had been trying to do hard work upon thin claret, to which I attributed in secret my breakdown, and the reaction was startling. Poached eggs and a pipe had nothing incongruous about them after this, and we slept like two men. In the morning we had a plunge and Swim in the lake, most refreshing and delightful in the sunrise; and we barely refrained from hauling in the attendant maiden who held our towels and slippers, she was so dirty, though otherwise no doubt all that a tea-house maiden should be. We noted in the visitors' book her peculiarities, with a suggestion that in wet Seasons (as this was) she and others like her might be allowed to wash if possible not less often than once every other day. In dry seasons the lake would perhaps have become discoloured, as it is only about five miles long by two broad, and, except in one place, can be proved to have a limited depth. Two years later I again saw this maiden, and then discovered that she squinted, a fact which on my first visit altogether escaped my notice. My poor old limbs were still aching to such an 234. A/GAT YEARS MAV 9.4 PAM. extent from my labours of the previous two days, that I actually took pride in achieving the stagger up-hill to Ashinoyü, a place where natural baths of hot sulphur- etted water are to be had, for the benefit of various ailments. It is not a nice place, though after a little time One becomes accustomed to the abominable smell that pervades it. It is some three or four hundred feet above the lake, separated therefrom by a high hill, out of the flank of which the springs issue, still higher up. There are many other places scattered over this district where natural hot baths, impregnated with a variety of solutions more or less offensive and medicinal, are sought by Japanese and foreigners alike ; and even healthy visitors to Hakone in the summer use the Ashinoyū baths with advantage, because of the walk over and back in the early morning, which to the jaded townsman does more good than the most inappropriate baths can COunteract. From Ashinoyū to Miyanoshitá is about four miles, all down-hill by a path that in places is very rough and steep, but in any decent kind of weather is enjoyable on account of the bracing air and the varying scenery. Miyanoshitá lies on the side of a narrow gorge, and is a straggling up and down place, with two good hotels. We reached it in time for tiffin, raising the number of foreigners at the Fuji-ya hotel to thirty, whereof twenty- four were missionaries or their belongings, enjoying a good time, with the help of children's pocket-money and the contributions of the ignorant. After tiffin, we trudged down the gorge to Yümoto, through a misty and almost stifling atmosphere, quite TRIP TO FUJISAN AND AWEIGHBOURHOOD. 235 different to that of the hills above; but all along the road were fountains of the purest water, sparkling and bright. Even the best of beer cannot compete as a beverage with this exhilarating product of nature, in the use of which, however, moderation is to be commended, as it unques- tionably requires no small amount of self-control. We passed through Tonosawa, near the mouth of the gorge, to which one can travel from the settlements by jinri- kisha. This is a little collection of tea-houses and shops for the sale of fancy ware, such as at home we think of, or used to, in connection with Tunbridge Wells. It lies in a nook under hill-sides so high and steep that it is always cool, for the sun does not touch it for above a couple of hours in the longest day, and mosquitoes are almost unknown there. During July and the early part of August, however, the “büyö,” a tiny fly, is disagreeably prevalent, its bite or suction producing more lasting irritation than that of the mosquito. A very little further, and we came to Yümoto—the original hot water—a favourite name for hot springs all over the land. Here, again, it is generally warm weather, and we found it necessary for our comfort to lie down for half an hour in the river, on the softest boulders we could find in a convenient place to support our heads above the rushing water. This prepared us for a good Japanese supper, which was to my taste far superior to the tiffin in foreign style we had at Miyanoshitā. The Sour and salt and bitter and pungent relishes by the aid of which the insipid rice is coaxed down the throat, are, with a little practice in their use, found to be truly delectable; but the sweets are disagreeable and mawkish. 236 AEIGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. We were amused by the anxiety of the hotel people that we should close our shutters at night, a course repugnant to our feelings, as we desired to breathe fresh air even while sleeping; but the good people are very much afraid of thieves entering by any insecure or unfastened shutter, owing to the disagreeable practice these worthies have of resorting to the use of the Sword if disturbed at their work. The hotel-keeper, of course, did not say this—which would have been too true—but tried to frighten us with stories of “tengu,” a sort of vampire that resides in woods, and has the bad taste to make no distinction between the blood of foreigners and that of the native victims to his greed. As to our being upstairs, that confers no safety at all in a country where “bakémono,” with necks that can be elongated to any extent, may be met with at any corner, though they are generally Supposed to live at the bottom of a well, SO that one seldom sees exactly what kind of a body it is that nourishes such a wonderfully long gullet, or is nourished by means of that same. These are dreadful bogies, however, and capable of thrilling the nerves of old and young by their expected appearance. We passed the night uneasily by reason of having only Japanese pillows to rest our weary heads upon. We reached Yokohama next day, after a wearisome ride along Sandy roads, about half-past three, and I returned to Tökiyö by the five o'clock train, exciting the pity of the populace as I limped along the platform. In fact, unless one keeps generally in pretty good walking trim, a week of severe exertion is too much for comfort and not enough for improvement. If I had gone TRIP TO FOSISAN AND MEIGHBOURAIOOD. 237 farther afield, I dare say I should have returned as I did in 1877, Sound as a bell and gay as a lark. As it was, at this time I had to draw such satisfaction as was possible from the reflection that I had “been there,” when I looked at Fuji, in the distance; at a cost of about three pounds ten in cash. It is an undoubted fact that in Japan you can travel all over the country for less money than you can live comfortably upon at any one spot; partly because you don't expect comfort when travelling, and partly because sleep, the traveller's chief recreation, is not chargeable by even the most accomplished ex- tortionists. But there is a ghastly monotony about the proceeding that prevents one economizing for any great length of time in this way. When at Miyanoshitá we had a sight of the papers, and learnt from them that the row of the Friday night before we started, of which I heard a rumour in Tökiyö, was really a mutiny of the Artillery of the Guard, 3. quartered at the Takebashi barracks, not far from the palace and the legations, that might have been a very serious matter for the occupants of those places. The men had a grievance in connection with the distribution of rewards for services during the preceding year, so they rose against their officers and killed a few of them, and tried to reach the palace “to present a petition,” according to the usual formula. They were, however, met by a body of troops well in hand, and polished off in a workmanlike manner, some of the ringleaders justi- fying themselves by committing suicide in conventional fashion as soon as they found the game was up. Another regiment that would have joined the rising had 238 FIGHT YEARS IN }APAN. been marched out of Tökiyö the day before under suffi- cient guard to ensure their good behaviour or prompt destruction ; but many of the men had contrived to desert, and these were, I think, the gentry we noticed about the country on Our first morning's journey. The affair did not prevent the Mikado setting out on his tour for a couple of months in the north-western provinces, after formally acknowledging as heir pre- sumptive a young cousin, Son of Arisugawa-no-Miya, his uncle, who bears the title of Nihon Shinnö, or next of kin to the Sovereign of Japan. This was in conse- quence of the death of the Mikado's only surviving child ; but there has been other direct offspring since that time, of legitimate status according to the custom of Japan. ( 239 ) C H A P T E R XI. TöKIYö (1878–9). I HAD barely recovered from the fatigues of my pleasure excursion to Fujisan and the parts adjacent, and hunted the last Yoshida flea from my personal vicinity, when the even tenor of my professional existence, usually disturbed only by people who were not too busy with their work to find time to quarrel amongst themselves, was upset by the break of the season, which this year took a particularly disagreable form. The first welcome rains of September (not to be confounded by any means with the unwelcome and unseasonable rains of August) rather overstayed their usual period, and just as we thought the country nicely refreshed, with perhaps too free a downpour, we had a furious couple of days that produced destructive floods over nearly the whole of the land. I was just awaking one morning, when the Shimbashi station-master sent over to my house a telegram from his colleague half-way to Yokohama, to the effect that water was passing over the rails at that point, and the ballast was being washed away—and the Shimbashi official wanted to know if he should despatch the first 24O FIGHT YEARS ZAV 5.4 PAAV. train as usual. Of course I couldn't tell him not to do so, but I could go and see what was the actual state of things not a dozen miles away; so with a crust in my hand and a pocketful of cigars, I joined the driver just as he was starting with the train, and off we went into a very nasty looking morning. After passing the first two stations we came upon what was known as the “long straight,” a piece of line extending across the low ground, from the bluffs of Omori nearly to the bank of the big river. Here we saw water before us, evidently a strong flow across the line, at a spot quite distinct from that mentioned in the telegram of that morning ; but we pushed on till the road began to feel shaky, when I jumped down and walked along the line a little ahead of the train, soon perceiving that the water was rising and that the rush was so strong as to undermine the sleepers. So the train was backed, not a minute too soon, for there was an ugly lurch or two and a great expenditure of steam before the engine succeeded in pushing back its load to a slightly higher level, and as its going on was clearly out of the question, I sent the train back to Tokiyo to await orders, and set the engine free for special Service; and pushed on along the line. Progress on foot I soon found difficult, for the rails were well covered, and there was a strong cross flow ; but by feeling with the point of my stick along the rail till it hit a chair, and then stepping on to the sleeper that of course was underneath it, I managed to progress step by step for about a mile, in something more than an hour, till some of the platelayers, who were busy stacking up the sleepers of the unfinished second line so as to TOKYVO. 24. I prevent their being washed away, understood my calls for a trolly, and brought one down to meet me, after which progress on wheels was easy till we got across the water on to the incline leading up to the river bridge. From some farmers, who reached land in tubs at the same time, I learnt that the banks had given way in several places, and that they had thought a strategic movement from out their threatened houses advisable. I also recognized a sluice-door, out of place by a good half-mile, and began to wonder rather at the Small amount of the water; but I “doubled ” up the incline towards the bridge, and there was the river, in a phase new to my experience here, though reminding me of father Katsura in angry mood. Two thousand feet wide of water, raging brown and white, tumbling through the bridge at express speed, with a roar that produced a curious cold sensation about the spinal cord of One observer. The flood had, however, slightly fallen already, probably owing to the breaking of the banks here and there. Thankful that the old rattle-trap trestle-work I once knew had been done away with in time, I passed over the bridge of good solid masonry and iron, and found on the far side that there was pretty nearly as much water outside the bank as in ; Kawasaki station, half a mile away, was well submerged, and a man on the platform was up to his thighs in water. Our buildings on the river bank, Theodore's bungalow, the shops and workmen's quarters were all high and dry; but here and there in low places the flood was coming over the banks, and about fifty yards below the bridge, where R 242 . A.IGHT YEARS IN 54 PAN. a large outfall sluice had stood, there was a horrid gap through which the water had poured out upon the plain and the village. As the staff just then available on the spot was not sufficient to undertake any remedial measures, consisting as it did of two English foremen, Theodore's cook, and myself, I promptly decided upon breakfasting, and made a highly successful raid upon the provisions in the bungalow. Then I lit a cigar, and sat on a rail observing the water. - I had always been sceptical as to a certain height of flood marked on our sections, partly because it was above the highest part of the banks, which, again, were the highest ground within three miles of the spot ; and partly because it could not be doubted that the highest water-mark would be in the centre of the stream, and I didn't believe any one was there to mark it upon an obstacle, if such a thing there could be in such a situa- tion. But now on actually seeing, by the aid of the bridge piers, that the water in the centre of the deep channel was at least eighteen inches higher than it was at the banks; and reflecting that it was now low water in the sea less than five miles away, and that at high water the difference of slope in the river would make the velocity less, and the centre not so high above the sides ; and that the highest flood might actually coincide with the lowest velocity at this point; I could see how this great elevation of flood might accordingly have been noted on the bank itself or some post thereupon ; and owing to the patchwork way in which the maintenance of the banks by the farmers was attended to, a consider- 7 OA. WYO. 243 able rush over the crest of the bank in low places was not at all unlikely. One of the foremen told me that the greatest height below bridge on this occasion was early in the darkness of the morning, before the big gap beside his house had suddenly opened, and flooded the country southwards; the water rising above the level of the rails at Kawasaki station had passed inland towards the hills, and been the cause of the telegram from the station-master. - As our good luck would have it, we were in a capital position for repairing damages, as soon as we could really get to work, having large heaps of ballast ready for shifting at one end of the bridge, and at two points nearer to Tökiyö; so I set about contriving a raft to take me across to the station that I might telegraph instruc- tions. However, just then I saw the smoke of an engine in the distance on the Yokohama side of the flood ; and with the aid of a binocular made out some people launching a boat from the bank where it stopped, so I waited for them. They turned out to be the truant Theodore, absent on convivial duty, with the traffic manager, and our Tökiyö doctor, who was bound for home and thought his best chance was to stick to the railway men. Almost at the same time arrived our Japanese officials from Tökiyö, who had come down by engine as far as they could, and then struggled through the flood pretty much as I had done, bringing with them a strong gang of men from the upper ground ; so that we got to work at Once, first to make good with stakes and fascines a few weak spots in the embankment, and then to follow down the water, already subsiding, 244. A/GAT YEAAES IN 9AAAAV. and reopen the line to the station, so as to get the . engine through to the ballast heap ; and by four o'clock in the afternoon we had trains at work at both ends bringing ballast in to make good the road. All that night and the next day and night we worked, and re- opened the line for traffic on the second morning. This little episode was quite refreshing to me: the Cumbrous processes and delays usual in the every-day course of things were neglected in the emergency, and all hands worked with a will. I earned from the Japanese the very doubtful compliment of having “worked like a coolie”; and I am certain that one respectable old gentle- man with whom I had a good deal to do in official matters renounced me altogether as an inferior person when he saw me hopping about the line with my shirt- sleeves tucked up to the armpits, demonstrating to the men that if the water prevented their seeing where to shovel in the ballast, it needn't prevent their feeling for information. There was plenty more to do, in the way of re-arranging our disturbed works, after the actual emer- gency had been dcaſt with ; but beyond getting myself down below thirteen stone, I don't know that I suffered in any way but reputation. The Japanese official would never condescend to lay hand to anything, except in case of fire in his own house: even our native “foremen,” as we called them—thereby begging a question of some importance— used to like to walk about the line or shops with gloves on, in order not to be confounded with the coolies. As a matter of fact, too, the Japanese in their early desire to learn, had so many butchers and bakers and candlestick makers in the positions of professors of foreign languages, 7 OKTZYO. - 245 advisers on questions of agriculture and commerce, or teachers of polite literature and etiquette, that one is disposed to excuse the suspicion with which they look upon any actions indicative of acquaintance with manual labour. At any rate, I have no doubt they chuckled hugely at the idea of my having, in a moment of forget- fulness, betrayed a familiarity with pickaxe and shovel. We lost a couple of men, unfortunately, at a smaller bridge we had in hand, where there was also a consider- able flow of water. The poor fellows were trying to save Some floating timber and were drawn into the current. They had, in Japanese fashion, prepared themselves for all bad-weather emergencies by putting on six or seven suits of clothing, so that they were helpless as soon as they lost footing, The country people of the district suffered severely; houses, crops, utensils, provisions of all kinds, were in Some places swept clean away, and many lives were lost, especially at a village called Hanada, about half-way between our bridge and the Sea, which was almost de- stroyed. In the houses that withstood the flood, people were roosting on the beams of the roofs for the best part of two days, or committed themselves in tubs to the mercy of the waters. This is a common dodge with the inhabitants of the lowlying districts, who probably look upon the proceeding as a good joke—more Japonicorum —in the interval between the first flurry of unpleasant excitement, and the eventual subsidence of the water. I have been, when in quest of flood-marks about a new district, highly gratified when the oldest member of a family has illustrated on the side of a tub the greatest 246 3. FIGHT YEARS IN }APAN. height of a memorable flood above the floor on which the said tub had been placed as a temporary refuge for the rice-bag and the baby. In November I experienced for the first time, but, alas ! not for the last by a long way, the inconvenience of having my head offices in the terminus at Shimbashi. It so happened that the vessels of war Japan owes to the fears or ambition of the government and the genius of Sir E. J. Reed, after having been tried in a variety of ways and found more or less wanting, at last furnished a pretext for a junketting on the part of the two Empresses and the ladies of the court; and as when these great per- Sons travel by railway, reception or withdrawing rooms are required at every possible resting-place, I was turned out of my rooms in order that the officers of the Imperial household might fit them up for the occasion with carpets, Screens, rare shrubs and flowers, chairs of state, tables and tea apparatus, tobacco-jars, and so on. I had to retire to my little private office in the house, armed with notice- forms adapted to every possible contingency ; and await the accomplishment of the august comings and goings, and the reconversion thereaſter of the offices to what I had the cheek to look upon as their proper use. The inspection of the ironclads was to be a very gay affair, and some of the wives of the English officials attached to the naval mission were to be presented to the Empresses, on board the Fusā-kan (which, owing to its resemblance in general shape to a Japanese bath-tub, was the favourite of the three vessels with the natives), and there were to be great rejoicings, fireworks, Sweetmeats, big gun drill, and casualties. ZOAZYO. 247 All this was planned for the 4th of November, and was to be forgotten before the return of the Mikado from his journey, expected about the 8th. But on the 4th it rained dismally, also on the 5th, likewise on the 6th; and I was just enjoying the prospect of getting at my official desk again (as the fun had to be given up) and making up arrears of work, when a fresh irruption of wild officials took place : the Mikado had determined to strike the railway at Kanagawa and return to Tökiyö by rail. This was pleasing, after a fashion, for I had arranged to run a series of special trains with materials for the works in progress, delayed on account of the foregoing trouble ; and these I expected would all have to be countermanded. However, I hung out my flags and assumed an air of festivity; and as it happened, perhaps on account of some occult influence thereby set in motion, two of the ordinary public trains were stopped to make room for the Imperial special, and my material trains were only delayed an hour or two. On the 9th, the Mikado arrived, his august consort coming down to the station to meet him, and looking as solemn as if no jinks of any height to speak of had been contemplated in his absence. She stood at the end of the platform to await him, amid a group of attendant ladies, some of whom, scandal said, were preferred to herself-made a low reverence to her lord as he passed with his immediate suite, and fell into the procession just behind the bearer of the Imperial teapot and spoons, entering her own carriage at the station steps to follow her spouse back to the palace. Many thousand spectators were assembled, the Imperial Guards drawn up, and all. 248 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. the chief officials who had not gone down to Kanagawa to meet the Mikado there put in an appearance at the Shimbashi terminus. The spectacle as a whole was rather imposing, and such displays are evidently popular with the people of the capital. I did not, however, get back into my offices for some days after this, as there was a remote possibility that the fleet might be honoured after all by an Imperial inspection; but the abiding foulness of the weather at last knocked the project on the head for the season. This November was an exception to the ordinary run of things. As a rule it is the finest and most settled month in the year, a little frosty at nights, but bright and clear when the sun is up. Sometimes the fine weather lasts through to the middle of February with hardly a break ; but that does not make a healthy season in the large towns, as unless there is some kind of a fall to flush the surface drains and carry away the refuse that favours the seeds of disease, a sort of epidemic of low fever may be looked for. This month was fatal to another of our staff, Theodore Shann, who caught cold by exposure to a chill after fast walking, and had a recurrence of his bronchitis of the preceding winter, which weakened him so much that he succumbed to an internal ailment of an organic kind, and left us on the 28th. He was laid hard by his old friend John England, in the Yokohama cemetery. I had now to rely entirely upon my Japanese staff, to carry on the renewal works and the doubling and maintenance of the line. The length was divided into two sections, putting each in charge of a senior cadet 7 OAZYO. 249 as my representative, with a senior foreman to assist him in the general arrangement of labour and materials, while an assistant foreman was attached to the out- side work, and a Japanese inspector of platelayers was “doubled ” upon each of the two foreign platelayers. Any special works, requiring continuous Supervision on the spot, of which we had many in hand, were placed in charge of the best men I could pick out for the purpose, and made my own particular hobby. Very timid some of these good fellows were at first, in their new places of responsibility, and their plaints of “tak'iisan ab'unai" (very dangerous) at the commencement of each new operation were amusingly sincere ; but we did what had to be done without mishap, if at times a little the reverse of expeditiously. About the end of 1878, there first appeared to my observation a sort of beginning of the attempt, since pursued with some success, and greater promise for the future, to form a sort of society in Tökiyö which should include all the elements, native and foreign, that could be made to combine. Of course there was already existing a certain amount of Social intercourse between the more liberally minded of the high officials of state and the foreign representatives in the capital, and to a smaller extent between the various depart- mental officers whose accomplishments included a familiarity with the social observances of foreigners, and the better class of foreign employés in the service of the government. But differences of habit, incongruous lines of thought, and above all the difficulty of bringing people to adopt a common language for conversation, 25O EZGAZZ" YEARS ZW 3/4 PAAV. all combined to render exceedingly painful the early attempts at general social intercourse. The “pidgin'” English of Yokohama and other trading ports, itself a standing joke on account of the strange artificial meanings attached to the words of a very limited vocabulary, is utterly useless as a medium of general conversation ; and it is felt by most Englishmen that to address a Japanese gentleman in the phrases that pass current in the office or sample-room would be almost an insult, while even among men who have resided a long time, as years go, in Japan, the mere Order of words in a grammatically correct sentence of any but the baldest import is a standing difficulty. Each succeeding year is, however, perceptibly adding to the number of Japanese who, having resided in foreign countries as students, mercantile agents, consuls, or attachés to the various legations, and so on, have returned to their own land with some facility in expressing and comprehending ideas that underlie all Social intercourse ; and it is no longer impossible to bring together persons of different nationalities who are superior to the fear of making ridiculous mistakes that goes so far, especially with Englishmen, to keep up the barriers that divide unaccomplished linguists. It must, however, be remembered that in official intercourse, the intervention of professed interpreters is necessary for Security against misunderstanding ; that this in itself shuts off one important field of practice in the use of a common language; while in private inter- course such interpreters, if suitable for introduction as socially eligible into the society of their official superiors, 7 OATVVO. . 25 I still can hardly be looked upon as facilitating any but the most commonplace kind of talk. A third person in Japan is not always a help to mutual confidence; it is no fallacy to suppose that one of three must be far more careful of the import of his unconsidered remarks than one of two. The remedy, nothing less than the acquisition of conversational facility in a language presenting extraordinary difficulty to One side or the other, be the learner a Japanese or a foreigner in the land, is slow of application ; but the feeling that it is worth more striving after than the many have hitherto given to it, has been of late forcibly impressed upon those who have seen the result, so far, of the laudable attempts made to overcome the obstacle. It may be confidently believed that much of the distrust that now taints the relations between the best class of Japanese and the foreigners with whom they come in contact will vanish before the growing light of social intercourse, from which what we call “shop " may be almost absent, and which may foster the develop- ment of other interests in common. At the same time, impediments to free social inter- course among the Japanese themselves, remaining from the old jealous exclusiveness of the upper classes, who looked upon the bulk of the populace as from birth destined to inferiority, and worse, to contempt, have not failed to attract notice from leading men in the modern Japanese society. A deliberately planned coalition, for the nonce, between somewhat different elements, took acknowledged shape in the beginning of 1879 in an entertainment given by the Tökiyö Prefecture, 252 A/GAT YEARS ZN 9A PAN. the Local Assembly, and the Chamber of Commerce, representing the administrative, politico-economical, and commercial circles of the capital. The watchword was circulated, at any rate, that the intention was to break down the barriers that had separated, so far, the merchants from the military and aristocratic classes (now representing officialdom rather than exclusiveness or special privileges and duties). This was to be done to the music of champagne corks; and to ensure a sufficient mixture of the various elements of society about three times as many guests were invited as the scene of festivity—the Mitsui Bank offices—could well accommodate. A great number of foreigners, from the government services in Tökiyö, and the mercantile community of Yokohama, were bidden to the entertainment; and the occasion being of such a special nature, there were but few refusals. I had, fortunately, owing to a cold that troubled me, preferred a substantial pair of walking boots to the thinner chaussure usually associated with evening dress ; and was consequently enabled to smile blandly when, after paying my respects to the Chiji (city prefect) and the ministers and merchants whom I happened to know as such, we all fell to trampling upon the barriers in good earnest, a process that made many grimace and writhe. Apart from the champagne, which was to be avoided, and the really magnificent supper that I dare say outlasted the successive attacks upon it that were organized by relays of guests, the staple entertainment was a theatrical performance in the fourth story; difficult of access, but still practicable, like the supper, to a man. TOX VVO. 253 with stout heart and either insensible or well-protected toes. The part of the performance I happened to witness was a very clever representation of a dancing doll, by an actor whose gestures appeared to correspond with the twitches of imaginary strings held by another actor who stood behind him ; but the heat was so intense in the crowded room, in spite of the season, which was a hard frost, that I fully expected the executant to drop dead in the midst of his exertions. Subsequently the actors appeared amongst the guests, in the white choker and swallow-tail of social life, and pawed about their especial patrons of the aristocracy in a disgusting fashion that left the barriers nowhere. On the whole, despite the presence of Imperial Princes, some of the old school of Japanese statesman, and the ministers of state and foreign representatives, the enter- tainment was simply a bear-garden ; and I believe I was not alone in thinking that the barriers might with advantage be raised again to Some extent. The spring of 1879 witnessed another step in advance, in the railway management, by the introduction of native engine-drivers to work a portion of the traffic—a long contemplated change, which had been systematically provided for. It is true that between Tökiyö and Yokohama the task of engine-driving is about as simple as it can be anywhere ; but it behoved us to select and train our men properly, and in the result there have been but few instances of want of judgment on the part of the Japanese drivers. The curious view taken by the non-professional observer as to the dangers of such innovations, was well illustrated by a remark attributed 254. A/GAT YEARS ZAV 9.4 PAN. to a gentleman who in his own line had to exercise Some powers of investigation and judgment. He said that “it would be all very well so long as the train was on a straight line, but he doubted if any Japanese could be trusted to steer the engine round those curves | * At first some acute inquirers amongst the travelling public were very keen to know which of the daily trains were still entrusted to Europeans ; but as no casualties of any kind occurred to demonstrate the inferiority of the Japanese drivers, and as we found them not only steady and wideawake, as we knew beforehand, but also economical in the use of coal, oil, etc.—to say nothing of their lower wages, about one-sixth of those paid to foreigners, -the substitution was a source of legitimate satisfaction to all interested in the proper management and success of the railways. The un- avoidable friction at the first starting of these arrange- ments, with a portion of the foreign staff, was well dealt with by the Locomotive Superintendents both at Kobe and Tökiyö. There were several distinguished visitors to Japan during this year—the Duke of Genoa, Prince Heinrich of Prussia, General Grant, and Mr. Pope Hennessy, now Sir John, of whom I think the Japanese considered the last named as being by far the most important as regarded their own purposes. With the two princes; it was simply a question of entertaining them in a manner worthy of the land they were visiting and their high rank. With General Grant there was in addition a hope that his advice and good offices might conduce to a settlement of existing disputes between Japan, and 7 OAZYO. 255 China; while the general righting of everything wrong was attributed to Mr. Hennessy as his province. I believe as practical successes the courteous and uncom- promised princes may be bracketted first; while the disappointment attaching to the result of the other gentlemen's efforts was probably in proportion to the expectations formed at the outset. Besides assisting at Some pleasant gatherings in honour of these visitors, I was personally interested in a good many of their movements, in my official capacity. It generally happened when I had craftily arranged special trains of materials, ballast, etc., for my own work, still jogging along on its somewhat wearisome course, and had exchanged the hobnailed boot of the perambulating engineer for the laced shoe of the conscientious tennis- player, that a confounded insidious little brown envelope would be slipped into my hand, informing me of the intended transit to Yokohama, or return therefrom, of Some one or other of the dignitaries above named, bent on pleasure or repose as the case might be, with an eſzłourage whose minds rejected the ordinary trains as beneath them. Then no sooner had I countermanded all my own arrangements; given the requisite notice all round to the satellites who were waiting to twist the road about, take the tops off bridges, or obstruct the line in any of the other ways possible in the night interval, that they were carefully to abstain from doing anything of the kind ; had given the positive instructions necessary for the due provision of power for the special trains; and had thereafter sat down to dinner with a less 256 EIGHT YEARS IN }APAN. developed appetite than I had hoped for, than wild telegrams—would begin to assail me with tidings that two or more specials were wanted instead of one, or vice versä ; so that I had to break in upon the repose I fancied I had earned, and do the work all over again. Finally, as there never was any telling whether some official at a distance might not be called upon to modify at the last moment the arrangements made, in accordance with the whim of the moment developed by some of the disfinguished party, I could not even fall asleep with a good conscience until I had heard the last engine clank over the turntable on its way into the stable. My enthusiasm in public as each of these distinguished individuals left Tökiyö for the last time on his way to the port where his ship was awaiting him to bear him away to other lands, was not by any means a purely complimentary effusion. Some of the entertainments given to these dis- tinguished visitors were pleasant enough, and came in as a sort of compensation for the evils of which I was otherwise the victim. One of the prettiest sights I remembcr to have seen was the energetic chasing of the perspiring general, on a hot July evening, by a host of small girls, decked out as only children in full hôliday costume in Japan can be. These little lasses, daughters of high officials, had been taught or told that about the general which made them anxious to see him face to face; and when the crowd had thinned, and General Grant, I dare say, like other people, was turning his thoughts towards a quiet smoke in some cool room or out of doors in the moon-lit garden, they ran him TO ATVO. 257 down in one of the corridors. Then to see the Solemn eyes and parted lips of these tiny maidens, as the great man took each little hand and smiled upon them—not, I dare say, without an answering throb at his own heart— was to some who looked on by no means the least impressive part of the evening's entertainment. - -- Nearly all the stock occasions of revelling were more or less improved by the authorities for the benefit of the distinguished visitors. The annual fée on the Sumida river, supposed to signalize the opening of the season for excursions upon the river in the cool of the evening in covered boats, not unaccompanied by the tuneful geisha and her samisen, the jar of sakê, and the pickled cuttlefish (which last in its mastication, deglutition, absorption, and digestion, may be described as a joy for ever and the day after), and all other delights that can go on board a boat, was intended to be Something quite beyond all, especially as regards fireworks; but a furious rain-storm marred all. I was one of a jovial party who surrounded a fair lady and a supper basket, and I believe, the only one who kept up his spirits to the end ; for my position, and the vantage of a large umbrella, enabled me to keep tolerably snug and dry at the fair one's left shoulder under the awning, while all the rest got horribly wet and grumpy ; so that at last they refused to hand up the succulent pie and the foaming glass any longer, but subsided into uneasy slumbers as the boatmen fought their way through the canals to our landing-place, where they were picked out of the bottom of the boat one by one and revived with brandy and soft words, 258 A/GAT YEARS IN }AAAAW. These sudden rain-storms at night, that occurred frequently during this particular Summer, were really godsends for the restless people, for they sent down the thermometer several degrees and gave us a chance now and again of a good night's sleep. Happy those who could get away to the hills, or up north, to Nikkö with General Grant or to Hakodate with Pope Hennessy —no such luck was mine, though I had a prospect of a little run north later on, as will be seen in due course. Yet one more féfe was there, which took place in the Uyêno Park, where the Mikado, consenting to accept the invitation of his faithful taxpayers of the metropolis, was present at a display of national pastimes on the lines of bygone times. The faithful gathered in large numbers, about two thousand guests being within the enclosure, and amongst them quite two hundred foreigners. The whole remaining population of Tökiyö was just outside, where they could see the day fire- works, in which the Japanese delight and excel. The first part of the fete consisted in sitting in a covered gallery and fanning oneself while every five minutes or So a roar from the populace saluted a discharge of one rocket, and an answering storm of applause from the élite proclaimed that an old man, survivor of many taxpayers, had been presented to the Mikado. There was no stint of old men, and I was well into my third fan before the second part of the programme was entered upon. This was a display of fencing with Sword and lance, or rather quarter-staff and single-stick ; several couples were at work simultaneously, and the fighting so fierce and vigorous that it was quite charming 7 OATVVO. 259 to see the profound bows with which the combatants concluded their energetic bouts on a decisive advantage being gained by either, and retired to make way for fresh men. Then there was arcllery ſrolli llorseback, the game being to ride at full speed down a straight road and try and hit targets placed fully ten feet to one side ; not very difficult apparently, but the performers were by no means invariably successful. After this came a display of skilled horsemanship, the most curious performance being the gradual loosing of long streamers attached to a pair of staves fastened to the back of the saddle, the cunning rider so regulating the motion of the horse that a gentle agitation was sent along the Silken streamers, till at last some twenty yards of silk were borne on the air without the horse being urged beyond a sort of amble. Then followed the sport of dog-killing, the victim being chased all over the chclosurc by mounted huntsmen with bows and arrows, who en- deavoured to hit him when dog, horseman, and arrow were all flying sometimes in as many different directions as there were independent bodies involved. It was Sadly evident, however, that the breed of dogs that formerly took an interest in this sport had degenerated. as the animals produced either lay down in the Sun and winked lazily as the blunted arrows struck them, or bolted through the rails into the crowd. So a wolf— that is to say, a flour-bag—was substituted for the unenterprising dog ; and being hauled along the ground by means of a rope attached to the saddle of one of the most skilful horsemen, who wheeled about all over the place, the bag describing involutes and evolutes of the 26O A. ZGAZ" YEARS ZW 5A PAN. most baffling description, with a cloud of pursuers after it, the sport became certainly far more amusing than the dogs had made it. This concluded the programme, and his Majesty having retired to his pavilion, all the guests and several million outsiders rushed into a long tent for refreshments, which consisted apparently—but I was late for the fun—of Sausage rolls and claret cup. Such were our frolics ; and our work was enough to give zest to them, dull as they may seem on the recounting. I was very busy all the summer, and at last succeeded in getting the last “under’ bridge safely completed ; while my accessibility as a resident in the capital, brought me various Outside matters to advise upon. In general, such applications were accompanied by a minimum of information and a demand for the most comprehensive advice and instruction. One of the characteristics of the Japanese is exemplified in the light- hearted way in which they come to get an opinion, and the subsequent depression and distrust that come over them when you, Mr. Adviser, suggest that you would like to know a few more particulars; they immediately begin to think, either that you have some concealed interest that prompts you to ask more than they wish you to know, or that you have no knowledge on the subject whatever, and desire to conceal your ignorance. ( 261 ) CHAPTER XII. JOURNEY IN THE NORTH (1879). IN September of this year, Our department was put under a new Chief, General Yamada, whose name is well known in connection with the events of 1877, but whom I never had the felicity to meet. Inouye Kaworu suc- ceeded Mr. Terashima as Minister of Foreign Affairs, and there were various other changes. My hoped-for trip northwards became an actual fact at last, and I started away in the Meiji Maru, the lighthouse tender, to inspect the “tramway,” as it was called, at Kamaishi, in Iwate Prefecture, accompanying so far Mr. Yamad, then Vice-Minister, afterwards Minister of Public Works. The Meiji Maru is a capital Clyde-built screw- steamer of about a thousand tons, and fitted very com- fortably for passengers, as she is frequently used to save persons of some importance the time and trouble of overland journeys. She was full of stores, and had even a good part of the deck taken up with apparatus and fittings of various kinds, not only for lights of the different classes that distinguish a really large number of the important headlands of the empire, but in this case for the first installation of “sirens” on the coast. 262 FIGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. What with the Engineer of the lighthouses, and his inspecting staff, who were at home, of course, in the boat; with the Vice-Minister, a financial pundit who accompanied him on his inspection tour, various minor Officials and servants, and myself and interpreter, we were rather crowded up, and I had to take my Japanese cook, who was accompanying me as a factotum for the return Overland, into my own cabin. We slipped away down the bay of Yedo in weather that looked ominous of a typhoon or earthquake (which some wiseaues profess to discover previously advertised in the heavens), or something disagreeable ; but outside it was found to be all right, just enough roll to afford me an opportunity of squaring accounts—well, never mind that. We rounded the promontory that forms the South-eastern extremity of Hondô (a name seldom heard, but really that of the main island of all the three thousand Odd that go to make up the Japanese Empire), and came to Our anchor in the roadstead of Inuboye, near the mouth of the Tone river, about six A.M., on the 22nd. Here the Engineer and his staff went ashore to inspect, and the ship delivered stores to a very small extent, for there was a long swell rolling in, that moved the ship so that it was unsafe to open the main-deck ports. So the bulk of the stores destined for this place had to be taken all round the islands, and brought back to Tökiyö thence to start again by inland navigation for Inuboye some two months later. This is not a nice anchorage, as, though there is good holding ground, it is quite open to the east and south ; and, moreover, on her next trip the Meiji Maru discovered involuntarily that there was joðRAVEY IN THE MORTH. 263 a sharp isolated peak of rock close handy, upon which she sat unexpectedly, with results unpleasant, but not serious. It was not kilow II when I was there, however, and might have been unknown for ages but for this accident, as the Meiji Maru was the only vessel drawing fifteen feet of water, that ever came there, and she only about twice a year for a few hours. We were sur- rounded by fishing boats, the crews apparently taking a holiday to watch the ship, for I couldn't see that they were trying to catch anything. On the return of the shore party we were off at once, hoping to reach harbour in the neighbourhood of the next light before the moon should go down ; but we couldn't quite manage it, and our careful skipper was too canny to try and feel his way into a bay through rocky ground in pitch darkness; so he slowed down as soon as he made the light, and when we rose early on the 23rd, before the sun was up, there was the revolving light gently winking at us from the bluff on which it was perched. We landed as soon as possible, by boat, on Some rocks about a mile from the lighthouse, and the ship went off to the regular harbour, some half-dozen miles away on the mainland, for this was Kin-ka-san, the holy island of the east coast, at the north-eastern corner of the deep bay of Sendai. While the officials interested were at their work in the lighthouse, or planning the site of the new siren, I wandered up the hill, getting some charming glimpses into little bays on either hand, where the fishermen's boats scarcely rocked at their anchorage, and the rocky 264 FIGHT YEARS IN }AAAAW Scarps could be followed by the eye far down beneath the tranquil waters. From the top of the first knot of spurs projecting from the main hill, that bears the temples on its brow, I looked out over the silvery Pacific —five thousand miles of unbroken ocean between me and the Californian coast. It almost seemed as if we were out of the world, and that there could be no real necessity for the white lantern that was just peeping over the brow of the cliff, seated on a little plateau betwccn two rifts where the rock fell away on either side, and left a clear view for more than half a circle over the waves and along the jagged coast line. I heard the monkeys moving and chattering in the trees above me, though I could not catch sight of one of them ; but Some deer sprang out of the ferns close by me, and one big black buck came up within twenty yards and looked as if he would pitch me down the hill just as soon as not. Like the man on the stile, I “continued to smile,” till I softened his heart, and he went off, “a vec des daims,”—with his does in the wood. I was so charmed with the place, that I asked the Vice-Minister, when we met at tiffin in the keeper's quarters, for his interest to secure me the position of light-keeper at Kinkasan, when my occupation as a railway engineer should come to an end in the land. Even the “siren" did not dismay me, for I could scheme to make it play tunes, and welcome the fog-bewildered Yankee skipper who should approach the coast, with the soul-inspiring strains of his national anthem ; or charm the coast-bound gull with the sympathetic notes of “Oh for the wings” on Sunday evenings. ŞOURNEY IN THE MOR7A. 265 Our business done, we walked across the island, over a ridge about a thousand feet high, to a village and group of temples over against the mainland, and were ferried across a strait about half a mile wide, to the shore under a wooded cliff, whence another little walk brought us to the village and harbour of Aikawa and Our ship, a distance altogether of about eight miles. We were lucky in our weather, which had permitted us to land at once on the island ; as if it had been rough Outside we must have walked both ways. The unloading of stores was not completed till late at night, so we lay at anchor till the dawn, slipped out between the reefs, and rounding the island, exchanged signals with the lighthouse, and sped away north along a picturesque coast. About noon we approached the headland that marks the entrance to the bay of Kamaishi, a narrow arm of the sea running some IIIiles up between the hills, and dropped anchor at one o'clock. P——, the resident Engineer, whom I had only once seen for a few minutes in 1875, greeted me cordially ; and as his wife and children and their impedimenta were all going away by the Meijz Maru to Hakodaté, there to-Catch the coast mail for Yokohama, and SO depart for their ancestral home, he eagerly retained me to bear him company during my stay at Kamaishi, by his lonely hearthstone. I did my best to console him, and indeed got up a mild quarrel, which did him a world of good, as to whether, being on the spot in response to a request of his that certain locomotives should be condemned by authority, I should accede to the request of the Vice-Minister that I shouldn't be bashful about men- 266 A/GAT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. tioning any other matters that might come under my notice as condemnable, in the line, the works, the mines, the staff, or any other noticeable thing. In the end I blessed them altogether, locomotives, line, live-stock, and all ; and left them to quarrel amongst themselves, as to whom, amongst many respectable persons otherwise connected with the concern, they should blame for all mishaps. This, however, was at the time of departure. I had five days in which to look about the place, and was away one night at the mines, up in the hills two miles beyond the end of the railway, which is eleven miles long. The principal mine is simply a gully in the Seaward face of the main range, exposing a vast mass of iron-stone which is worked in the open ; the ore is very rich, and plenty of it to last the reducing plant for twenty years is already exposed to view. The approach is difficult, being up a long winding gorge, with a rise to the working levels of over thirteen hundred feet from the railway. I was called upon to say how I should recommend the transport of the ore from the mine to the railway to be effected ; but when I told them that I thought a certain mode would be just the thing, I found that was what every engineer they had brought there for the last five years had told them, and that I might consequently just as well have held my tongue. So we returned down-hill to Kamaishi, a village remind- ing me in many respects of Shiótsú, my old habitat, but having an unpleasant reputation for a sort of leprosy prevalent among the inhabitants, insomuch that P− had to employ servants about his house, who came over the hill from another valley altogether. The works ŞOURNEY IN THE NORTH. 267 consist of a couple of furnaces, with three hot-blast Stoves, blowing engine, etc., all complete, and a very ambitious rolling mill with puddling and reheating furnaces, steam-hammers, and all appurtenances. No work had been done as yet, when I was there ; in fact, the railway was not completed, so that the Supply to the furnaces could not be brought in. I don’t know whether there was any meaning in the question the Vice-Minister put to me, how should I like to be engineer at Kamaishi; but I had only to remind him of his promise about Kinkasan. Certainly to be exiled to an isolated valley, where one is cut off from all communication with the world, is a fate which at any rate my good friend P did not paint in rose- colour, in his anecdotal descriptions. On the morning of the 30th September, we left Kamaishi, by rail as far as it would take us, and thence walked along the unfinished line to Ohashi, at the foot of a pass over the ridge. The climb was very steep, and tiring even to the legs; what it would have been on a pack-horse I can't Say, for I preferred walking up and down the other side. The view landward from the top was very beautiful, range after range of hills into the far distance, the nearer ones clothed with forest from top to bottom, with the leaf just turning to colour, and the more remote were all shades of brown and purple in the broken light that gleamed through the clouds, then beginning to pack under the afternoon sun. At the foot of the pass we came upon a merry little river, and followed it down, passing a bare cliff of granite about five hundred feet high at one bend of the valley, 268 AIGHT YEARS IN }APAW. and gradually gaining a more open country. Then it came on to rain—for the first time in Our whereabouts since leaving Yokohama ; and we had a weary time of it inside our waterproofs, perched on stumbling pack- horses, fording rivers and plashing along the roads, or such remains of them as had survived recent floods. At last, as night fell, we arrived at Tono, our resting- place, and I solemnly comminated the beast who had borne me there before I entered the tea-house—a pro- ceeding that caused Some astonishment to the bystanders. It had a good result, however, for next morning I found my 'Steed equipped with a good English saddle and bridle, about the last thing I should have looked for in Tono, a remote market town in perhaps the least advanced district of Japan. Here I found that my choicest Japanese was quite thrown away; the people would not even listen to me, but seemed to think that as a foreigner the best thing I could do would be to hold my tongue and get on my way. I vainly attempted to get rid of the man who led my horse, but he stuck to “his” animal—that is, the animal who owned him. A Japanese horse employs a man pretty much as a face maintains a nose—to go before it and get first into trouble. However, I was thankful for the less unnatural seat, and the sensation of having my beast by the head, so that I could make the acquaintance of one of my companions at any rate. We had a five hours' ride on the Ist October, partly over hills and vile roads, till we reached a sort of neck of high ground connecting a knot of outliers with the western spurs of the main range, and here we found ŞOURAVEY IN THE AWORTH. 269 a good wide road, and jinrikishas that took us into the plain traversed by the Kita-kami river, and so up stream to Morioka, the chief town of the Iwate pre- fecture. The name of the prefecture is taken from that of the shapely hill that stands out in front of the rugged mountains to the north-east—Iwa-te or “rocky hand ; ” it does look as if the genius of the mountains had laid his grasp upon the plain. In the polite tongue the name of the mountain is Gan-jiu-san, which means I know not what ; or, again, travellers call it the Fuji of the north ; and one high authority attributes to it the “graceful logarithmic curves" that form the outline of the only true Fuji. As to this I can only say that a good comprehensive view of the mountain from foot to crest, from the other side of the valley of the Kita- kami, failed to reveal them to me. It is, however, a grand IIlass, and, like all lofty mountains in Japan, is looked upon as something sacred ; and it resembles Fuji in being an extinct, or at any rate dormant, volcano. At Morióka I took leave of the Vice-Minister, who was bound upon a round of visits to out-of-the-way mines, undaunted by the prospect of two months of travel in a rugged inhospitable district. I turned my face Southward, and made good time up the great north road (leading from the capital to the extremity of the main island in this direction), as far as Takashimidzu, two days from Morióka. The road, which is the valley of the Kita-kami, was interesting to me as an engineer for several reasons. In the first place it lies on the route of the often proposed railway from the capital northward, traverses an important grain district, or 27O A/GAT YEARS MAW 9AAAAW borders upon it rather, for it skirts or mounts upon the foothills nearly all the way, and shows throughout a length of nearly a hundred miles the essential poverty of the country, even where agriculture may be said to flourish. All along this, the principal road through the valley, every bridge is ruined ; during the two years that had elapsed since the beginning of the destruction nothing had been done to remedy the damage caused by floods. In places the main river itself seemed left to try how many channels would suit its wayward dis- position, uncontrolled by guardian embankments, now overthrown and effaced, while the tributary streams were mere wastes of barren boulders, when the natural con- figuration of the hills did not provide a ravine to hold them. The road was almost deserted, and wherever it mounted on to the spurs, great stretches of uncultivated moor appeared, with here and there an insignificant chain of irrigated fields, betraying more than their total absence would have done the limited enterprise of the district. The idea of a railway leading through such districts as this, in a succession broken by rugged chains and hurtled groups of mountains, for four hundred miles to Awomori, which is nothing and leads to nowhere, has been harped upon with a persistency little short of mania, by a few persons of influence greater than they can themselves wield to a useful end, and presumably prompted by financial, not economical, speculators. It is earnestly to be hoped that the project has been finally scotched by this time; but as Soon as any talk arose, during the last six years of my connection with Japan, joðRNEY IN THE WORTH. 271 of railway enterprise, the scheme was always handi- capped by the monstrous load of “a branch to Awo- mori.” I dare almost say that no trustworthy informa- tion as to the wants and capabilities of the district has ever been Sought by the most active advocates of what, if undertaken, would prove a wanton waste of capital. A really good scheme for the benefit of this Kita- kami valley was at the time I was travelling there, in process of execution by the Home Department. Even when the inland course of the river was better main- tained, there had always been a difficulty at its mouth, where a bar closed the passage to the junks that loaded grain for the Tökiyö market, so that they were some- times detained at Ishinomaki, the trading port of the district, for two or three months, till a spring tide, con- Current with a favourable wind, enabled the vessels to clear the bar, and reach the offing safely. A canal was being formed to connect the river above the town, with a sheltered harbour some ten miles to the westward, where steamers of fifteen feet draught could take in cargo at all times. The Vice-Minister of Public Works, himself in no way connected with the project, owing to the curious mutual jealousy of departments and conse- quent duplication of administrative arrangements Con- stantly to be remarked in Japan, had recommended me to diverge from the direct road and look at this important work, and had furnished me with an official introduction to the Vice-Minister of the Home Department, who was supposed to be there at the time. As a matter of fact I afterwards heard he had been in Morióka at the same time as we were ; but I found officials on the spot who 272 E7GHZ YEARS Zw 5APAW. received me with courtesy and showed me with some justifiable pride the beneficial work upon which they were engaged. From Takashimidzu, then, I diverged to the east, and after a heavy day's journey through an almost heartbreaking district—for there was so much to be done to repair damages—I reached Ishinomaki, a picturesque town on both sides of a broad, handsome stream, sheltered on the east by the last spurs of the coast range, and on the west by a hill that rose into a bold bluff ovcrlooking the Bay of Sendai to the south, the sandy coast and lagoons to the westward, and behind them the wide valley with its little groups of villages, peaked and wooded hillocks and great mountain walls stretching far away to the northward, with the silvery stream winding from one side to the other, to collect its tributaries from the lateral plateaus. The mouth of the river, just in front of the bluff, is a shallow gap about two hundred yards broad, with a junk sticking in it, as I looked down from the top of the hill ; I dare say there is always that to be seen. I am not prepared to say that the good people of Ishinomaki were quite pleased at having their port reduced to a secondary rank, and the insignificant fishing village of Nobiru at the new harbour elevated into importance ; but what they lose will be saved to the producers, whose harvests will be carried quicker and cheaper to their market. The junction of the canal, which is open from the mouth to the influence of the tides, here not very important, with the river, is by a sort of lock, the gates of which close against the main river in time of flood. In govrwey ſw THE WOR7A. 273 ordinary states of flow the entrance may be open, as the tide also runs up the river above the point of junction with the canal, without much difference of time or period. This work has been planned and superintended by Dutch engineers, who are generally intrusted with the improvements of rivers and harbours, by the Home Department ; and every information I desired was promptly furnished to me by those in charge. Very little had yet been done at the Nobiru end ; but the general design of the artificial shelter proposed for the roadstead and the small craft harbour was exhibited. I had heard that some doubt was expressed by the authorities as to the effect of admitting even a small tidal wave to a length of canal through sandy soil; but finding, as of course I expected to, that protective works were an integral part of the design, and reflecting that if a Dutch engineer didn’t know how to deal with such a problem, the devil himself couldn't teach him, I saw no reason to anticipate a failure in Japan that wouldn’t be looked for in Holland. From Nobiru I started early on the 6th by road to a place called Matsushima, reported the most beautiful of all the lovely places of Japan, on account of the number of fir-crowned islands that lie in a corner of the bay of Sendai, over a space perhaps fifteen miles long by six broad. There are over a thousand of them, some large enough to contain villages, some mere rocks of very fantastic outline. The rock about sea-level is a soft one, capped by a harder stone below the surface soil; so that the coasts of the larger islands, and the sides of the smaller rocks are hollowed and carved T 274 EIGHT YEARS IN 9APAN. into caves and overhanging precipices: one rock is exactly the shape of a curling wave. At the village of Matsushima we took boat, and were rowed for about six miles amongst the islands to another village, also on the mainland, called Shiwokama. Here is a celebrated temple, much venerated for the assistance granted by the divinity to whom it is dedicated, to such of the faithful as desire to become fathers and mothers in the land. It stands on a hill, approached by steep and lofty flights of steps, and not only the temple, but a nest of subsidiary tea-houses and their somewhat over-demon- strative staff appear to be flourishing. My interpreter and boy both purchased of the priests tickets, certifying that they had chin-chinned the presiding deity, to be shown to the wives of their bosoms on their return home, to their mutual comfort and sustentation. From Shiwokama we took jinrikishas, and soon found ourselves in Sendai, which gives its name to the bay I had been coasting the last two days, though it is some dozen miles inland. This was the second and last rainy afternoon we had in the trip, and by five o'clock it was fille again, so that I could take a walk about Sendai, the largest town north of Tökiyö : here, be it remarked, we rejoined the great north road, the Oshiu-kaidó. Sendai was the seat of the Daté family, one member of whom is about the best known personage by sight, of the Japanese nobles who are detailed by the govern- ment to cultivate personal relations with distinguished visitors; while another is known as a sportsman who sometimes brings his gun and forgets his cartridges, and ŞOURNEY IN THE NORTH. 275 sometimes forgets the gun as well—so at least I am told by quite trustworthy persons, who never joke. The tomb of the founder of the family is at Sendai, so I paid a visit to it, expecting to find some grand monument, especially as the approach is through a public park; but all I could find was a ditch enclosing a space behind a small shrine; in the Centre of the space was a tree, and near the foot of it three small blocks of stone, suggesting the idea that Some stonemason's children had been at play there. From the steps of the shrine we had a fine view over the city, and lamented the destruction of the castle, the site of which, with its sloping approaches and lofty grey retaining walls, was plainly visible on the flank of the western hills. Then we descended into the business part of the place, and after some hunting discovered beer and cigars, whereof I made prize, and boots, which my interpreter refused to buy, because the shopkeeper would not reduce his price, as every proper Japanese shopkeeper should do. So he, the interpreter, resolved to make the pair of cloth boots, with winich he had started on our overland journey of some four hundred and fifty miles, last him out to the end, and it was certainly possible to identify their remains when he reached Tökiyö. I entertain a favourable recollection of Sendai, not only on account of the beer and cigars, but because the uniform and hideous ugliness of the people I had seen throughout since leaving Kamaishi was compensated for by the extreme loveliness of a young girl at the tea- house where I stopped,—a more perfect face and dignified, or rather reserved, manner accompanying the gentlest 276 FIGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAſ. courtesy, I have never seen to my recollection. I ascertained that Sendai was her birthplace, which is the best thing I can set down about that ancient stronghold. In general, the pretty women of Japan are simply pretty, and the pleasant ones simply pleasant; but the maid of Sendai was far above such praise as that. From Sendai to Tökiyö, four days and a half, I noted but few things. The road is monotonous, for without going over any pronounced dividing ridge it traverses an immense number of hill-sides, up and down, up and down for ever almost, without affording anything like a prospect, and bringing the traveller every few miles to a village that is exactly like the last one and that next to come. There are some four or five large towns in which the inn accommodation is good; at other places it is so indifferent that one avoids stopping, and the conse- quence is an almost disheartening succession of similar places during the day, and a late arrival at and early departure from all places of interest. At a town called Otawara we took coach, and thence into Tökiyö the journey was less tedious, but not more interesting ; Utsunomiya, that I passed through in 1877, was only a halting-place for tiffin this time. I reached home in a thankful spirit, with only half a pound of biscuits and one small bottle of champagne left of my stores; but I had made a good show with the food of the country on my way, or I should not have brought home even so much, for profiting by former experience, I had no more baggage than our three jinrikishas, when we could get them, would carry along with the three travellers, self, interpreter, and servant. govKNEY IN THE NORTH, 277. Kamaishi, Ishinomaki, Matsushima, and Sendai, how- ever, were well worth the trouble of the journey; to say nothing of Kinkasan, the scene of my future repose, when I retire ſrolil the active exercise of my profession and turn my attention to the development and perfection of the far-resounding fog-horn. I found on my return that the American mail I had hoped to catch had departed on the morning of my arrival, taking away also our Sir Harry Parkes. A bare twelvemonth had elapsed since Tökiyö and Yokohama had bid farewell to Lady Parkes, combining the best wishes for her prosperous voyage home with a fervent hope that her return to Japan might not be impossible. But it was known that “home” was not always kind in greeting to the resident for a space in Eastern climes, and Sir Harry's sudden departure for England was a forewarning of the gloom that ere long fell over society in Japan, when the news of November reached us. 278 EIGHT YEARS IN SAPA.M. CHAPTER XIII. TöKIYö (1879–80). By this time my renewals were so far completed that I began to look about for new work, and felt inclined to wish that some accident would destroy some of the “ poky’’ stations that were about the only thing on the line now that I was ashamed of; but destruction of buildings comes all too frequently in Japan, as I knew to my cost before the winter was over. Christmas Day went out in peace and goodwill ; but Boxing Day was “a scorcher.” I was writing in my office about noon, when the clang of the fire-bell suddenly rang out; and from my window, a lofty first floor in the Shimbashi terminus, I could sce far away over the roofs, in the heart of Tökiyö, a little streak of black smoke torn in tatters by the fierce north-west wind. Under such circumstances it was clear that unless the fire should be got under in the first minute or two, it would spread and sweep down to the sea; but even as I looked the red flames rose over the house-tops, and the fire began to leap and bound, as it always does with a wind in a Japanese town. We had fire-engines at the station, but we could only get them run out in readiness TO KZYO. 279 for action if the fire came our way, as it seemed at first it might do ; no more, for the majority of our men lived in the threatened districts, and had to run to Savc their familics and belongings. - The foreigners about the place were chiefly interested, as soon as it was seen that the direction of the wind was taking the fire well clear of the station, in the preserva- tion of the boats of the rowing club, kept near the mouth of the river, a good mile and a half away from the locality of the outbreak ; but before there was any chance of getting there from Shimbashi, the last Occupant of the neighbourhood had wisely made his escape, including our caretaker who got the boats out into the mud, where they were subsequently burnt up, all except a little dinghy, in which he contrived to get away himself. By half-past two a space about a mile and a half long and fully three-quarters of a mile broad had been swept clear of all but the fire-proof godowns or storehouses that are attached to every well-built house ; after the passing of a fire they stand up like tombs in the desert. They will stand a very intense heat for a short time, but the contents, if of any perishable material, are generally altered a good deal in constitution by the time the fire has passed them by, and left the mud walls to cool down again. The fire just took the corner of the foreign Concession, burning a wooden church and three or four houses there ; but for some time other houses were in great danger, and the scene of confusion was bewildering, every street and vacant plot being covered with furniture, mats and shutters, household utensils, and bedding, all tossed 280 AE/G#7 YEARS IV 5APAN. by the furious wind, that lifted the very gravel off the roads and dashed it about with the smoke and the burning fragments. A number of native carpenters stopped the fire in this direction. They had a large framework of a house standing near the sea, erected under Contract, it was said, and not yet paid for ; so they worked like madmen to keep it from catching fire, beating out the flying sparks and burning shingles, and drenching the timbers with water; so that though buildings were consumed by the flames within twenty yards of them, and the heat must have been terrific, their efforts were at last successful, and moreover saved all the sea-front of the Concession, and the American Legation. The native fire-brigades worked and quarrelled valiantly on the skirts of the fire, and succeeded in limiting its spread at many points of danger; but the conflagration leapt the wide river in two places, burning a convict gaol and a ship-yard on an island, and some junks that lay over half a mile out beyond. By six o'clock only the immense stacks of firewood and lumber near the harbour were still in flames; elsewhere the fire had done its work, having destroyed eleven thousand houses and rendered fifty thousand people homeless. Rumour said a hundred lives were lost, in a great measure in consequence of the burning of the bridges, thus cutting off exit for belated ones from some of the wards surrounded by canals. - All this was the work of a short winter's afternoon, and the gale continuing after nightfall great appre- hensions were felt lest a further Calamity might occur. ZoKryo. 28I By eight o'clock, however, the wind lulled, and a bright moon shone over the camps of the poor sufferers, huddled together in family groups with such mats and blankets as they had been able to save, to weather through the frosty night. The city authorities were active in giving help, distributing rice and other food, while many private persons opened their houses to their homeless neighbours. I visited the point of the outbreak in the evening and found, while embers were still smouldering on the ground, all sorts of temporary shelter being put up, godowns opened and converted into dwellings, and even laughter pealing from busy groups, at Some trivial mishaps that bore quite a comic aspect in comparison with the day's disaster. Our rowing boats were all destroyed, and the club virtually broken up by the catastrophe. There was no doubt as to the origin of the fire, which was a sudden gust of wind blowing open a door and Scattering light ashes out of a brazier in a small thatched Outhouse. The winter weather was very fine, scarcely a break until the second week in February, and the sun was so genial that in January we had the plum in full blossom in the open and violets in flower. At the same time there was skating on a small piece of water in the castle enclosure, where a grove of lofty bamboos sheltered the surface from the direct rays of the sun. A little attempt at gaiety was made after the New Year in the foreign circles of the capital; but the dancing parties that had been organized soon fell off, chiefly owing to the mutinous conduct of some husbands, who 282 EIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. united themselves, after swearing horrid oaths in private, in a league to buy no more gloves, but to dance always. The show of hands at one meeting was almost conclusive against a continuance of that kind of thing. In February, 1880, the fire-demon paid me a personal visit, much to my astonishment, as my house was quite isolated and out of the way of the sweeping conflagra- tions that one generally looks for in Japan. But defective chimneys are found everywhere in Japan, the land of ſrequent though mild carthquakcs; though I was under the delusion that the good stone chimney- stacks, bound together with iron bands, of which I had the detailed drawing in my office, were to be trusted. The IIth of the month was a general official holiday, and I had been disporting myself away from home in despite of the softly falling rain, returning about half-past six, when I thought the evening so mild that I would have no more fire made from that time. After dinner I sat reading till bedtime, when as usual I covered up the grate in which there was then only the smallest spark of fire remaining, with a wire fireguard, and retired to roost with a clear conscience and no presentiment of impending misfortune. About four in the morning I was awakened by a sound that I at first took to be the plashing of heavy rain on the edge of the verandah; and was lazily turning over to sleep again, when I became Suddenly fully awake to the fact that the room was full of smoke, and that the sound in question was the Crackling and popping of burning wood. Of course this was a fire in the house, so I sprang to my feet, opened the door and a window ZOA Z}/O. 283 opposite to it, and yelled for the boys, who slept in a Separate range of buildings. I was somehow possessed with the idca that if the site of the fire was kept shut up till help arrived the house might be saved; so I grabbed at my clothes and watch, and made my way downstairs through thick smoke to the dining-room door, and peeped in. There was no mistake about it, the ceiling had fallen in and the room was full of fire; so I shut the door carefully, and was retreating to the front door, which was fastened inside, when I found myself in a cooler atmosphere, and found that the boys had thrown open the door leading out into their yard, of which they kept the key. I suppose first my opening the upstairs window to call for assistance, and then the opening of this down- stairs door, set up a circulation of air that developed into a blaze a considerable mass just Smouldering up to that time, for the fire seemed to burst out through the walls all round the house about the ceiling level, and I had to retreat to one of the servants' rooms to get into my clothes. Not a soul was visible yet to help, but only a scared woman messing about with a baby; so I ran round to the front of the house, hoping to get into the French windows and save some papers at any rate; but it was too late, the front was one mass of fire. But I could see that the chief body of flame in the wings of the house was in the space between the ceiling of the ground floor and the floor of the upper rooms; in this house exceptionally deep, some five feet or so. I gave it up then and there, and some men arriving with the Squirts that do duty for fire-engines in native 284 A.IGHT YEARS ZW 3APAN. hands, I set them to work to save the servants' quarters. Then our own Merryweather arrived, after an excursion round the station-yard in search of water. We had a good arrangement by which the engine at a central point could force water nearly all over the shops and quarters; but this central point was supplied by the city mains, and of course they were laid off for repair at the time. So we got the suction hose into a tidal creek close by, and by this time I was “wanted” by the police —only to be sure I was Safe, however, ſor iL was kilowii that I slept alone in the house. A couple of jets were brought round to the front, and started to play as nearly as could be upon the site of my cash and deed boxes; but the water could only touch the outside of the fire. In less than half an hour from the time of my awakening there was nothing left standing but the two chimney- stacks, and I had borrowed a pair of boots and laid violent hands on a cigar, and was enjoying a Smoke “by my own fireside,” to use Sheridan's sorry joke. In a couple of hours the iron boxes were extracted ; but the contents were charred beyond recognition ; SO all that remained to be done was to play the fire out, which took a long time. The servants' offices were saved, and the cook at the first alarm had gone for the meat-Safe in the covered way connecting the two buildings, so that I had an early breakfast of succulent steak, with a tree stump for a seat and a kitchen chair for a table. Of course the point of interest, when I had received the condolences of my friends, and purchased a new outfit to supplement what I had at the wash at the time of the catastrophe, was how did it arise 2 - 7 OAZYO. 285 The origin of the fire was pretty clearly traced to a gap of communication between the flue of the dining- room fire, and the space above the ceiling ; how long the timber had been Smouldering there was no telling ; it might have been hours or days, for the room above the dining-room I never used, and therefore missed any indication that might have been sensible there. The chimney-stack was built of very soft stone, and with extremely bad mortar, and had been shaken by the earthquakes of several successive years. My wits being sharpened by this calamity, I instituted an examination of the similarly built chimneys of the station offices, with the result of finding that in many places it was quite possible to insert a walking-stick between the stones into the flues from the outside, when the plaster, skirt- ings, and floors were removed around them ; so that it is a wonder the place had lasted so long, and I could not help a selfish wish that the warning had been given by the destruction of the offices, and the remedial measures applied in my house. However, we got some good out of the trouble. I put up with my friend the Locomotive Superinten- dent, pending the discovery of another suitable habitat for myself, and elaborated a design for a new house on the old site, the which was, after some struggle with the fixed tendency of the Japanese mind to let everything foreign in its nature or purposes slide as chance may direct, erected for me ; for I did not like the idea of losing my garden and tennis lawn, as well as the house and its contents. The course of events, however, ulti- mately divorced me from the place altogether, instead 286 A/GAT YEARS IN JAPAN. of merely temporarily as I had hoped. Not foreseeing this at the time, I enjoyed for some months the pleasure of Superintending the building of a nice little house—for another man to live in. I suppose the actual loss to me, hopelessly total as it was in the first five minutes, was not realized to the full until months had elapsed. I had a sort of feeling that I was a very light ship and in no danger of coming to grief any more for awhile, so long as my ribs held together, of which there was every prospect. A lot of lumber that I had accumulated in the course of the previous six years, and of which I had almost forgotten the details, had gone away in smoke ; so, alas ! had my furniture, including a good piano, and so forth, altogether to the tune of between three and four thousand dollars; and then my books, notes and papers—there was the rub, and I groaned in Spirit when occasions brought home to me the loss of Some abstract or calculation, or the interleavings of my books of reference. Sometimes I did grizzle above a bit, I believe, over that February morning's destruction, and I have a hatred of smoke (always excepting that of tobacco the consoler), that will not leave me if I am burnt at the stake for it. And then the great work l—not this little one— materials for which I had supposed myself to be secretly collecting, to flash some day before the eyes of an astonished world —I will resist all temptations to enlarge upon that grief. I once met with an old clergyman, who bitterly lamented the ruthlessness of men who ran a railway just behind his house, and cut two favourite meadows 7 OA ſy'O. 287 right into cocked hats; but as he said, “there is com- pensation in all things—now, my grapes were remarkably fine that year !” So in this blessed February of 1880, within two days after Iny bereavement, I received instructions to prepare orders for the materials of a hundred miles of line, permanent way and rolling Stock; and felt myself young again. This was intended to connect the capital with the silk district of Jöshiu, traversing a line of country not presenting any particular difficulty, except, of course, the rivers to be crossed on the way, the first whereof I immediately proceeded to tackle. This was a big thing, and presented an interesting problem for solution ; and I went at it with some zest. The native engineers were, however, disconcerted by iny asking for the assistance of some surveyors. Those of the department were all otherwise employed, so I took a cadet out of the head office, and made a surveyor of him, losing a little time in the doing so, - and giving to the work such time as I could spare from my other duties, at last produced a systematic view of the characteristics of the river, and the considerations to be kept in view in bridging it. But my good friends the native engineers, I found, had expected that I would go and Stick them up a couple of poles, one on each side of the river, and say “Here's your crossing !” and should then go on to the next and polish off the whole trouble in a week or so. So when I had with some little labour told them what I considered they ought to know about the first river, I was politely requested to defer examination of the rest for a time; and one of them- 288 EIGHz YEARS IN }APAN. selves proceeded, in the rough and ready heaven-born- genius-and-see-it-with-half-an-eye kind of way above suggested, to lay out the line. My old-fashioned educa- tion having led me to the belief that it is well to know something about facts in connection with proposed works, I was quite left behind by the young engineering giants of Japan,—who, indeed, on the completion of their first tunnel, for instance, boldly proclaimed the interesting news that such work was better understood in Japan than in other lands, and refrained ſrom alluding to foreign assistance. - However, being requested not to trouble about it, I didn’t trouble about it ; and whether the matter has since arrived at the stage when it is advisable to be serious in one's arrangements, I don't know—it was not so up to the time of my departure from Japan. At the end of February we had the severest earth- quake that occurred in Japan in my time. The agitation lasted nearly three minutes; quite long enough to make people realize a full measure of discomfort and appre- hension ; and though the actual damage done was marvellously small (in our railway buildings far less than a much shorter rumble effected the previous October), a good many of our community did not get their hair to lie straight for several days after, nor think without nausea of the interval between being shaken out of sleep and finding themselves outside their houses. Even the scientific observers, of whom the number in Japan is yearly increasing, "rather lost their heads. One man I know of, a truthful being, and not extraordinarily nervous, described in print the alacrity with which he 7 OATVVO. 289 leaped from his bed, seized paper and pencil, and opened his watch to note down the exact time. In accordance with instructions circulated by the Seismological Society of Japan, he accurately noted the second hand ; but just then the lamp fell from the ceiling and the chimney came through the roof, and the record was lost as he sought the Outside of the premises. It was suggested to him that he would have had a splendid funeral, attended by the whole strength of the Society's members, if he had succeeded in getting the minutes accurately recorded before his brains were knocked out by the wreck of his dwelling ; but he expressed himself satisfied with things as they were. Some of the earthquake observations made by amateurs without any special apparatus are rather astonishing. That event of the previous October, for instance, was described as causing the trees to brush the earth, and the long grass to Crack like whiplashes, while the Coming shock was heralded by a roar as of an approaching luggage train. As the greater shock, or rather group of shocks, in February occurred at the dead of the night, there were fewer such fanciful tales going about ; but the different patterns of seismometers or seismographs or Seismoscopes recorded varying and inconsistent movements, and rival inventors and possessors rushed into wordy war. Still very little doubt is entertained by some members of the Seismological Society of Japan, that before long the whole family of earthquakes will be so far reduced to the position of acquaintances, that after any shock it will be possible to say “Earthquake C I4 (or whatever his registered * U 29O FIGHT YEARS IN SA PAN. name may be) looked in this morning, but didn't stop long.” - A large number of systematic observations of a simple character, chiefly as to time and direction, have been summarized with the result of pointing out a spot within a few miles of Yokohama as the probable site of the next new volcano ; but the value of real estate there is kept up by a combination of scoffers. The Japanese have a regular earthquake drill, with wllicli Lhey are acquainted from childhood. At the first agitation, they rush out of doors, if their homes are open as in summer; but if it is a cold season, or the houses are closed for the night, each man, woman, or child of sufficient size to act independently seizes one leaf of the shutters that slide in groves on the edges of the verandahs, lifts it traywise on to the head, as a protection from falling tiles or debris, and so gaining the nearest open space, lays it down on the ground and sits in the middle of it, to minimize the liability to fall into cracks or rents in the earth's surface. The sudden galvanizing into life of a sleeping village is a very funny sight, resembling a pantomime trick in its conception and execution. Resort is also had to bamboo groves, as the interlacing tough roots certainly bind the surface together so as to render it extremely unlikely that any fissure will open in such a locality, for choice. These earthquakes are certainly disagreeable, and as one can never tell when a vibration commences what it may be at its maximum, the more earthquakes are known the less likeable they are. It requires consider- 7TO KTZ YO. - 29I able nerve, if not indeed the disposition of a fatalist fanatic, to keep sufficiently still to make any trustworthy observations when it is merely an open question whether the occasion is to be chiefly interesting amongst the crockery, or to rival the calamity of 1855, when many thousands of lives were lost in Tökiyö alone by the falling of buildings, the subsequent outbreak of fire, or the Sweeping invasion of a tidal wave. But a great amount of ingenuity has in Japan been devoted to the devising of automatic machines for registering the direc- tions, force, and time of earthquake shocks, or even what may be described as “earth crackles, ’’ from the syste- matic tabulation of which some authorities consider that more is to be learnt than from the more noticeable shocks. It will, however, be necessary to keep a watchful eye upon earthquakes arising from the use of dynamite, which is being distributed in considerable quantities to various mining and tunnelling works, and as a compara- tively new thing in Japan, is very popular. Rival importers have afforded no little amusement by their fulminations in the press; and experimental demon- strations by the pushing bagmen who have visited Japan have been carried out in all sorts of places. I remember one set of these experiments that was worked through in the grounds of the Naval College in Tökiyö, under the patronage of the Ministers of the Navy, Army, and Public Works. The trials to demonstrate the harmlessness of the material when you don't want it to explode fell extremely flat; but anything like mischief “fetched ”the crowd wonderfully, and it was a glorious 292 AAGAT YEARS IN }APAN. sight to see the big wigs standing in a row, and saying “Pah-h-h-h-H !” at each explosion. In the beginning of June, I was very nearly burnt out again, for I was by this time housekeeping again by myself, in a cosy little Japanese-built dwelling on the hill about a mile from the terminus, from the upstair rooms of which I had a good view of the flags of all the legations, from the Union Jack of Old England, associated in the minds of British subjects with the five-dollar poll tax, to the dragon of China, a fearful fowl on a windy day. I was absent this time, for it was about the hour of the afternoon when hard-working foreigners alleviate their toil by social exercises at the Shiba Club ; and by the time I knew that the trouble was in my direction, the conflagration was all over, fortunately stopping short by one house of my own little diggings. The fire broke out in a bath-house, a gust of wind, of course, bearing the flame, and cleared away over three hundred houses in half an hour. A detachment of railway men rushed up from the station at the first alarm, and cleared out all my belongings, including a new suite of dining-room furniture and a Pleyel ; fortunately of the type that was proved in the Franco-German War to be the only one that would survive being pitched out of a second-floor window. The crockery was dropped into the pond in the garden; but the heavier articles were thrown down a bank twenty feet high, and hauled up again when it was found that the fire was after them Owing to a change of wind, and then were carted over to a temple hard by. As I was insured this time I received compensation for the damage 7 OAZYO. 293 done; but my friend Hugo, an amateur fireman of renown, whose ardour and axe were a terror only second to the devouring element itself, was imperfectly consoled for a broken head by finding that I had taken the last calamity as a warning to make myself safe in future. My household, however, was utterly disorganized. As usual when a fire occurs, Saké is also present in large quantities, and all hands drink freely. I had gone off with Hugo to get some dinner, and on my return found that there had been a row in the house, after the furniture had all been brought back. My cook, who was a punctilious man of superior class, put on his best clothes, and commanded his inferior, the house-boy, to accompany him on a round of ceremonial visits to the neighbours who had not been burnt out to congratulate them. The boy, who felt more like going to sleep, I should suppose, than toddling round with the cook, refused to leave the premises, alleging, with some reason, that there were a number of light-fingered characters about, and that the gardener and himself were not too many to look after the safety of their master's goods and chattels. The cook thereupon saluted the boy as a “chiküshö,” or beast of low degree, and the boy smote the cook ; and the latter retaliated with a bottle, and having stretched the boy on the floor in a senseless and bleeding condition, set out on his round of visits. So when I returned I found the boy streaming with blood and tears and very drunk; the cook absent on ceremonial duty; and the gardener voluble but unin- telligible: so the only thing to be done was to wash and bind up the boy's wounds, and wait for the morning. 294 A/GAT YEARS IN JAPAN. Next day he was sober and sullen, and explained to me in grave and well-chosen language that, though he had always found me personally an eminently satis- factory person to deal with, he couldn't abide that Cook, and therefore begged permission to leave my Service. After a vain attempt to reconcile the two, which was rendered futile by the haughty bearing of the superior person from the kitchen, I let the boy go, and thought that with time, and a highly recommended new boy from a conscientious household that only employed Christians, I might settle down again. But about a month after this, as I was about retiring to roost one evening, the cook entered my sitting-room, and with apologies, exhibited his head in a highly damaged condition ; and I found that he had set out to go home to the quarters at Shimbashi where he lived still with his family, and had been waylaid and assaulted by the late boy. I took him down to the police station, and there found the boy in custody and in a state of exuberant glee, having completely re-established his self-respect by pitching into the cook with a crooked stick with a nail in the end of it. This time the cook had to be washed and bound up ; and after the officers had examined both parties, and ascertained that the boy had left my service at his own request, they informed me that the matter would be dealt with according to Japanese law, and I went home to bed; so did the cook. Next day I had the curiosity to consult the Japanese criminal code, as translated by Longford of the Con- sular Service, and published in the transactions of the Asiatic Society of Japan ; and so far as I could make TOKYYO. 295 the matter out, it would depend upon a variety of circumstances, such as the age of the culprit's mother, the size of the nail, and the rank of the parties con- cerned, whether the boy would be hung or let off with thirty days’ hard labour. In the event the cook made a declaration that he bore no malice, and on the contrary regarded the boy as an estimable person ; and the boy having said as much for the cook, the police concluded to look upon the affair, including the first fracas, as merely a misunderstanding between two persons of quick temper and nice sense of honour ; and the boy got off without any penalty whatever. I was the chief and ultimate sufferer, for the Christian boy was soon “wanted ” by the police for theft from a former em- ployer, and my landlord coming to the conclusion that I was not happy in my domestic arrangements, turned me Out of the comfortable little house as soon as the first legal term expired. - In the middle of June, the Mikado set out on his usual tour, attended to the outskirts of the city by a vast concourse of Officials. This year an arrangement almost of the nature of a Regency was made, the central government being confided to Arisugawa-no-Miya, uncle of the Mikado, and father of the heir presumptive to the throne. The “jishin,” now become almost an annual institution, was in full progress at the time, which may have suggested the propriety of the new appointment. It was said that a new telegraphic cypher was devised, to enable the most confidential exchange of ideas between the Sovereign and his representative in the capital to be effected. It was also, I believe, at this 296 FIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. time that a radical change in the bureaucratic constitu- tion of the government was made by Imperial decree ; the Council of State being composed thenceforward of ministers without portfolios (except in the case of the Minister of Foreign Affairs, who for obvious reasons retained the immediate control of his Department), the actual administrative heads being subordinated to committees of the Council. ( 297 . ) CHAPTER xIV. TöKIYö AND HAKONE (1880–1). JUNE and July were in Tökiyö this year peculiarly trying, owing to the lateness of the wet season, coin- ciding with a higher temperature than usual. I contrived to get away in the beginning of August to the hills, not before a change was required, though at that very time the climate of the capital was more endurable than it had becn for six weeks previous ; and I came back into the extremest heat and fell sick, as it happened, before the end of the month. As it was, I could not venture upon an extended tour, but only lay off in the hills for about seventeen days, enjoying the rest greatly. My point was Hakoné, the place at which I had rested one night in 1878, on my return from Fujisan. It is a favourite resort in summer for the Tökiyö and Yokohama missionaries, and for such other foreigners as are lucky enough to be able to get away from their business. With an early start, the journey is easily practicable in One day; but I had to transact business in the morning of the day I left Tökiyö, and only left Ranagawa, the railway station next to Yokohama, 298 FZGAT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. about noon, taking jinrikishas along the Tókaidó, or eastern coast road, that here leaves the shores of the Bay of Yedo and cuts across the neck of the peninsula of Sagami to the coast of the Bay of Odawara. I was bound west, of course; but the principal roads are still named according to their bearings from Kiyoto, the old Capital, though distances are generally reckoned from Nihonbashi, a bridge in the centre of Tökiyö, and sup- posed by the Japanese to bear the same relation to the habitable world that in America is attributed to the oak on Boston Common. The route was a mere retracing of my steps two years before—for the first day, at all events. Being accompanied by my worthy cook, who was of course entrusted with the hiring of jinrikishas, and who couldn't reconcile it to his conscience to submit, as I would have done, to the palpable swindles of the coolies, in col- lusion with the officers of the transport company at Kanagawa and Fujisawa, there was some delay. I knew better than to interfere, but threw myself into the fastest going machine, and got ahead independently, in the confidence that the cook would follow me to the death. For an unencumbered traveller, a little decision is all that is wanted to secure a respectable rate of progress, and I got along merrily enough, by the simple process of leaving my team as soon as they became restive or dilatory, and walking a few yards till I met with other men in want of a job, getting into their vehicle and settling terms as we went along. If you Once get the fellows going without advancing money, they work till they get it; if you make any payment at TOKYYO AND HAKOME. 299 starting, they chaffer all along the road with disengaged men till they have sold you, realizing a small balance that represents a high rate of pay for a mile or two. The road was in a very bad state, and I was once thrown out of my vehicle ; but experience had taught me always to ride with disengaged feet, so that I was generally, in case of a spill or breakdown, the one of the party who came off best, and the ineradicable impulse of any practised driver to get at his horses' heads if the trap goes Over actually enabled me to save the men Sometimes, to their abiding astonishment, thereby proving, after John Mytton's fashion, that it is always a good thing to have been upset out of a dog-cart. More- Over, it was dark before I reached Odawara, one of those towns so characteristic of Japan, in which the neighbour- hood of a mountain pass is made the excuse for what to Our ideas is a somewhat too liberal and comprehensive provision of creature comforts, freely exposed for the temptation of the traveller who keeps an even balance between hardships and sensualities by partaking of them in alternation. As this was the height of the pilgrim Season, it was no use looking for a lodging here, or at any place on the main road ; so after waiting a while to give my boy a chance of rejoining, and to make inquiries as to the best means of getting forward, I left a supply of cash for him at the transport office (which is one of the transactions one may venture upon with a Japanese official in perfect confidence), and took wheels for Tono- sawa ; this place being a little off the main road, up the Miyanoshitá valley, was, I heard, free from pilgrims. I arrived there about eleven o'clock, and found good 3OO A/GAT YEARS IN }APAN. lodging and a fair supper; my servant and baggage arrived two hours later. Next morning I had to descend the valley about a mile, to strike the main road again, and climb the Hata pass; this part of the way being new to me, as in 1878 I had gone round by Ashinoyū and Miyanoshitá. In my debilitated state I found the walk rather severe, having a hot sun full on my back as I toiled up over the rough paving of the steep pitches; but there is no known method of progression over this kind of road more satis- factory than the use of Shanks his mare, so long as that useful animal has any legs or wind at all ; and as the Japanese say, the only difference between one mile and three thousand is in the number of steps you make to get to the end of them. I found it almost impossible to resist the tempting bright spring water that was offered by the keepers of the little shanties at every quarter of a mile or so, or the cool pears that you chew but don't swallow, for they turn to sawdust instead of pulp : indulgence in such things is, however, death to one's bellows. A little more than half-way up is the village of Hata, a mere hamlet of about forty houses, given over to the wily venders of turned ware or mosaic veneer, in every shape from candlesticks to cabinets. At last I saw the twin hill-tops that I remembered as being close to Ashinoyu, and was soon at the summit and looking down upon the lovely lake with its surrounding hills, and the level crown of old Fuji opposite above the clouds. Then I plunged down the two or three hundred feet that intervene between the top of the pass and the Strand, and trudged gaily along the winding road among 7 OATVVO AAWD AAA OAVE. 3OI the trees by the margin of the lake; till, turning the little wooded mound that hides the village from the approaching traveller, I came plump into the middle of the mid-day procession of mammas, children, nurses, and beggars of Hakoné in full season but hurried by to make myself presentable for a plunge into the ecstasy of utter idleness. I had cautioned my people in Tökiyö to forward no letters or communication of any kind, unless my house was burnt, or a smash occurred on the railway ; and in either of those events, to send if possible to a wrong address. I had, therefore, a fortnight to revel in, and laid out my plans accordingly, first announcing myself as ready to help any person who might want assistance in the task of doing nothing against time. The previous season, I am Sorry to say, had been utterly spoilt by the presence in Hakoné of some energetic young men, who would still be doing. They made love to the ladies, for which I don’t blame them,- I once loved my neighbour, a long time ago;-but they quarrelled over it, which was disgusting, and they caricatured their enemies in a so-called Puzzch, of which two numbers appeared, bristling with gross personalities and—well, unrefined sketches ; so that the place became a bear-garden, and the foundations were laid of lasting enmities and eager scandal. Those energetic young men are wiser now, I trow. The village consists of perhaps a hundred houses, whereof some twenty are tea-houses, and the remainder shops or farmers’ cottages, the owners of the best of which turn an honest penny in the Summer by taking 3O2 FIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. in visitors, Japanese or foreign—the ordinary state of things being here reversed, and the foreigners being crammed together in a way that would startle any Japanese above the station of a coolie. I should suppose that in the season nearly a hundred foreigners find lodging of some sort or another—mostly of the other— at one time in Hakone. I was a little astonished when going to pay my respects to a friend whose household consisted of himself, two ladies, two children, two nurses, a cook, and a house boy, to find that they were all lodged in a cottage that under ordinary circumstances would have been thought crowded by a farmer's family of the same dimensions. How it was arranged I could not make out ; but our calls were generally effected by using the street as a parlour, and an umbrella as a drawing- 1 OOIſl. My bachelor friend and myself were luxurious people —we had each a bedroom, and a sitting-room between us, and a wide verandah round two sides, with a bath- room in the far corner, gave us a sheltered promenade overlooking the lake. A fourth room, opening into a court, approached through the principal tea-house, to which our pavilion was an appurtenance, accommodated two servants. Upstairs was a similar extent of accom- modation, tenanted by two ladies, two babies, a nurse, and a cook—acquaintances of Ours; and we thought ourselves like the Smiths of London, quite the topping people of the place. We were all subject to the sway of one of the ladies, whose beneficent rule was peace ; but she went abroad with a chatelaine, which included a pair of scissors, a corkscrew, a sheath knife, a lancet, a small TO KZVO AND AAA OM/E. 3O3 saw, a tourniqueſ, a steel box containing surgical mysteries, and a horrid display of tooth-drawing instru- ments, that echoed amid the hills and vales, like the accoutrements of a regiment of cavalry at a sharp trot-- and destroyed by sheer terror, the local Organization of thieves and armed robbers, who fled before the gruesome sight and paralyzing sound. It was well they did not know, as we did, that the good creature had probably never Operated upon any living thing, and would not have harmed a fly. My Companion had a canoe, and larger boats could be hired. We had rods and lines, and could find bait— flies didn't work somehow ; so we passed great part of our time upon the lake, or perched upon huge rocks at its margin, and caught many fish, lively but uneatable, and always hoped to hook one that might weigh a pound. On wet days we read novels or played chess— or whist when the ladies would join us; on cool days we strolled to Gon-gen-sama, the shrine of the village, about a mile and a half away, round the shore of the lake, under the flank of a big hill; or even struggled to Ashinoyü for a sulphur bath, or over the western summit (for the village and lake lie in a hollow, as may be Supposed, though two thousand feet above the sea), and down the pass towards Mishima, till the southern slope of Fuji, and the lovely bay of Suruga feasted our eyes. At times when we suspected ourselves of energy, we made longer expeditions, to return tired and cross, and to lie on long chairs or on the matted floors, till sleep brought us peace and good-humour on awakening. It is difficult to account for the persistent statements 3O4. EIGHT YEARS IN 9APAN. of visitors that Hakoné lake occupies an ancient crater ; neither the deep hollow filled by the lake, nor the surrounding hills, have the shape of a volcanic vent. The barrier that closes up the head of the lake, and on which the village stands, rises only two or three hundred feet above the water ; and within half a mile is the head of a deep gorge Conducting the drainage from higher slopes towards the sea. The outlet of the lake is at the extremity remote from the village, and the ever-flowing stream takes a very circuitous course, first north, and then east, reaching the Sea near Odawara at last, after traversing a tortuous ravine more than three times as long as the direct line from the head of the lake to the Ocean. A line of gradual upheaval, running nearly east and west through the Centre of Fuji, would account for the deep eroded gorge of the stream and the ultimate formation of the lake in what had previously been the head of a valley deep amid primaeval hills. The cone of Fuji apparently stands about a point of least resistance on such a line, within a considerable distance in either direction. Apropos of lakes and their formation, the maps of Lake Biwa that are to be found everywhere in the neighbourhood of that fresh-water sea, contain a note to the effect that the hollow it occupies was formed simultaneously with the elevation of Fuji by transfer of material,—by the gods, of course. As they are nearly a hundred and fifty miles apart, and it was all done, as things invariably are in ancient writ, in a day or a night, there is some excuse for the somewhat profane utterance of one of my cadets in 1874, “I think—the | 12 god—very good engineer *TOKYYO AAVZ) AAA ONE. 3O5 But people who like to find a truth, or the possibility of it, underlying a puerile tradition, may suppose with me that the great lake of Biwa is simply a river basin, in which numerous tributaries united in One great stream, the head waters of the former being still visible in the separate rivers that flow into the lake, and the lower course of the latter still existing in the Yödo-gawa that flows into the sea at Osaka; but with an intervening district of upheaval, with a deep eroded river-course through it, possibly on an axis that may be connected with the vent of subterranean forces at Fuji. We didn’t bother ourselves with researches into geological mysteries, however, in those pleasant days at Hakone. In Fuji itself, the finest single mountain in the world,—so an American authority, I believe, has called it, and the world ought to be thankful for such an instance of American enthusiasm anent things, outre- 772e2,--we did indeed find a continual feast for Our eyes, that followed untiringly, from each point of view we visited, the harmonious slopes that lead up to the summit. About fifteen to twenty miles is a good range at which to admire Fuji ; to go nearer is much as if one should apply a microscope to a fair one's dimples. Never again, oh friends ! Once have I seen—no I didn't though—the prospect that Fuji's lofty head commands ; I will live and die content with the prospect of Fuji, head and zone and—suppose we say skirts. The knot of hills about Hakone, is just at the neck of the peninsula of Idzü, and by going a few miles south along the ridge, by the track that leads to Atami, one comes to a spot called Jikkoku-toge (the pass of ten X 306 FIGHT YEARS IN 5APAN. provinces), because from the high ground just adjacent to the path one can see portions of so many of the old territorial divisions of the country. As the spot itself is beyond the general coast line, one can see from Totomi on the west to Kadzusa and Awa on the east, with all the intermediate coast to the shores of Idzü on either hand, and many points are to be identified far inland. Our expedition in this direction was a little unfortunate, for our châtelaine sprained her ankle ; and the return, bearing the disabled chieftainess in the basket “kago,” that had originally contained our provisions for the day, but was designed for its ultimate purpose, was so delayed that husbands came out with torches to hunt for us in the moonlight. This jaunt was, therefore, considered to be so near an approach to energy as to amount to bad taste; and we relapsed into inanition accordingly, to the preservation of our good repute and mutual kindliness. - This kind of thing could not, however, last for long ; and I tore myself away from the little society in the hills, where our shaded thermometers never rose above 80° Fahr., and descended to the metropolis and 95°, to preside over the meeting of the 21st August, when my second detachment of holiday-making staff returned from their twenty days' leave, to relieve the third batch. I was disappointed though by the non-appearance of one of my leading cadets, who telegraphed to say he was laid up with sunstroke. When he did appear, ten days later, he replied to my really anxious inquiry after his health, by saying that “it was true the doctor had said he had sunstroke, but for his part he thought the wine of his ZOAXYO AAVZ) AAA OAVE.- 3O7 country was too strong !” I could only counsel him to avoid strong wine, and cleave to the truth always; both of which precepts he declared himself steadily purposed to observe for the future. I had then leisure to put myself in the doctor's hands—for the first time for five years. I found society greatly disorganized by the disagree- able behaviour of the paper currency, in which people were generally beginning to lose confidence, after specu- lators for the rise had been mostly ruined. The Financial Committee of the Council of State were sorely exercised in their minds, and their advisers were rapidly approaching their wits' end. One learned pundit did me the honour of asking what conclusions I should draw from a certain diagram, size of life, on which were various lines horizontal, inclined, wavy, mountainous, intersecting, or diverging, of all the colours his wife's sketching apparatus would furnish ; and contrived so as to exhibit the concurrent variations, over a series of years, of the export of precious metals, import of merchantable goods, maxima and minima of exchange rates, volume and nominal and equivalent values of the paper currency, and so forth, at a glance. He was trying to discover what influence, if any, one element had upon the others; and like the prize-fighter celebrated in Punch's hexameters, who was induced by a rap on the noddle to look nine ways for Sunday, he “finally failed to perceive it.” I was no wiser; so after imploring his wife to save the nation by getting some more moist colours, he went off to a meeting of the Deutsche Ost- Asiens Gesellschaft für Natur-und Völker-kunde as 308 A/GAZZ" YAAAES ZAV 5AAAA. a relaxation, and left us to our Schumann and our Schubert. This year we had the most violent typhoon that occurred during my limited experience of the climes liable to that visitation. The path of it seemed to follow the South-eastern coast from Tosa to Kadzusa, and considerable devastation was wrought throughout that length of the country, some four hundred miles. Certainly the feeling of insecurity it impressed upon myself, during the fiercest of the blow, far exceeded any effect of that kind produced by the earthquakes I had gone through. I was still in my Japanese house, a very Substantial and well-built one, and was roušed from my slumbers in the “ni-kai' (upper story) by the motion of the building, which warned me to seek that part of the ground floor where there might be least above to fall on me when the crash came. Fortunately it didn't come at all ; and after two or three hours— during which I could hear enough going on Outside to prevent my going out so long as there was any “in”— I returned to my couch and slept peacefully. Next morning Tökiyö looked as I should imagine a bom- barded city would, conflagrations apart—for, fortunately, owing to the lateness of the hour, all fires were out. Roofs were stripped of tiles, gable-ends blown in, fences and boundary walls rolled over in all directions, and Some few houses blown bodily down, to the destruction of the unlucky dwellers therein. One quite new house hard by the station fell suddenly by the collapse of its supports, killing, it was said, thirteen inmates; and other similar casualties, out of my own range of obser- 7 OA ZVO AAVZ) AAA OAWAE. 3O9 vation, were reported. At Kobe the boat-house and gymnasium, the pride of the settlement, were utterly destroyed, and the Union Church so damaged that it had to be pulled down and rebuilt. We were not great athletes in Tökiyö, being mostly middle-aged parties, who had seen the vanity of Such things, and were devoted to whist and the growth of waistcoats. But we had a few healthy people amongst us, who united to get up a cricket club, and who prac- tised assiduously, in the hope of walloping Yokohama. The first bout was, I regret to say, described by the local press as “a complete farce;” but we did better in the return match against Something under our adver- saries' full strength, and returned to Tökiyö to be greeted with approbation at the Foreign Minister's reception the same evening. In my own opinion, the practice was better fun than the matches; and we succeeded in bringing in aspirants to the honours of the bat from unexpected quarters. One well-known sinologue, whom I induced to play after a twenty years' innocence of bat and ball, said afterwards that it was the most delicious sensation possible to have nothing on his mind except how to avoid being killed ; he forgot completely for the time all things Japanese, Chinese, and Corean, his usual preoccupation ; and in his enthu- siasm volunteered to score for us at Yokohama. He had relapsed, however, by the time the occasion came about, having hurt himself, so I was told, in an attempt to invent a forty-two-stroke character that might stand ideologically for cricket in polite Chinese literature. I have no doubt he will succeed, for the idea involved is 3 IO AZGAT YEARS ZAV 9AAAAW. not absurdly complex beside that attached to a simple character which means, so I am told, “on descending from a pack-horse and putting on Sandals to walk in, to find one string is broken.” I must, however, warn the reader that the same person who explained the above to me said that Sir Thomas Wade had submitted to Li-hung-chang a new character that was at once recog- Ilized as signifying “a revoke,” and perhaps it will be as well to form a general estimate of the credibility of the witncss. I call only say that he ought to know, and he oughtn't to tell “tarradiddles,” as Thackeray called them. All this time my new house at Shimbasi was pro- gressing nicely, and I was already looking forward to settling down in it, and calculating how many friends of a year ago would be left to help at a house-warming, when the “irony of fate’’ intervened. Thomas the elder, and the more silent, who had been in charge at Kobe for the last four years, had resigned ; and I was to succeed him in what was officially looked upon as a more important charge than that I had been so far invested with, though they were on a par as to title and relations with authority. Thomas the younger was already on the move, so that I had the prospect—- realized, alas ! within a few months—of being the sole survivor of the engineering staff of 1873–4, and earlier. My residence in the capital was thus drawing to a close ; and I was not altogether Sorry, much as I liked the place and the people. For the really important work of renewing and rebuilding the little line had been brought to a virtual termination, and such remaining ZoKZYo AND HAKoyz. 3II improvements as were in hand called for no vigour in administration; and as the prospect of the extension work in the neighbourhood of the capital and onward into Joshiti faded away, now the promoters of railway- making found that they had altogether overlooked the serious side of the process, and didn't like to lay aside their fancies and take up stern facts; so I had turned my eyes elsewhere for work of interest, and rested them upon Kobe. But at the same time there was sufficient doubt as to the effect of more important causes than the retirement of one wearied engineer and the substitu- tion of another, to warn me that the “majority” of the foreign civil servants of Japan were beckoning me to join them, benevolently ready to make easy the passage —probably soon to be necessary—to “another sphere.” So while I still hoped, I was not unduly sanguine, and the event showed I was so far in the right. I do not propose to trouble the reader with any detailed account of the doings within my department that led, within a year of my transfer to Kobe, to my retirement from the service. But a sketch of some of the general conditions affecting foreigners in the employ- ment of the government of Japan, may not be out of place. Long before the period we had now reached, the days had passed away in which people, even of sanguine disposition, could look forward to an energetic persever- ance by the Japanese as a nation, in a course the earlicr steps of which had required a great expenditure of moral vigour, and had been attended by disorganization of the whole Social and economical system of the country. The 3 I2 EIGHT YEARS, IM 3AP4M. pressure of an enormous tax upon the moral as well as the material resources of the nation, necessary to maintain the departments of modernized government in effective action, had brought home to all honest thinkers the absolute indispensability of economy in all branches of the government service, and of easy rather than rapid progress, -SO as to give breathing time to a harassed constitution, drained at once by the task of modifying its accustomed forms of action, and by the effects of old and deeply seated vices inherited by the generation of transition. Everywhere was tension, fatigue, and a cry for relief. I have before stated my belief that the measures taken by the government (that is the Council of State advising the Sovereign) to reduce or commute pensions and relieve the agricultural classes of a part of their imposts, were, in spite of Some drawbacks and attendant evils, politically wise and beneficial to the nation as a whole, and I am inclined to think it probable that the continued existence of the government in its present form is due to that policy. But for the relief thus afforded to the great bulk of the producing but backward classes, Japan must, it seems to me, have succumbed to the organic troubles attending her conversion to modern ideas. It is, however, rarely that one hears this act of statesmanship referred to in terms at all adequate to express the approval that should be accorded to it by all thoughtful minds. Sometimes we find the perma- nence of the bureaucracy, the virtual form of govern- ment, in the personnel of which scarcely any Japanese proposes to put any faith, or confidence, wondered at TOKYYO AND HAKOME, 3I3 by those who do not see that the cry of progress to which the nation once responded, is for the time in abey- ance, and that the cry now is rightly for time to make good the drain caused by the progress So far effected— which cry and the necessity that evoked it, the govern- ment of the Mikado has not failed to recognize. Like a youth who has been growing too fast, the nation has a period of delicacy to work through before the full vigour of its maturity can be developed; and the power that has said, “Do not trouble to equal or rival your fellows just now : lay in a stock of strength, and grow out to your stature first,” is the most benefi- cent parent of future effort. But it is open to any one to allege, as I do, that in a great number of cases the appearance has been taken for the reality of the required relief, and a false economy has been put in the place of judicious maintenance of effective power. I believe it may be said that there are only two remunerative undertakings that have been worked out by national funds—the railways and the tele- graphs. Manufacturing and commercial concerns, having the command of government money, have sprung up in all directions and resulted only in the transfer of public funds to private pockets; and it is only lately that the folly of continuing in such a course has been recognized and an attempt made to realize something out of the partnerships between the various departments and the promoters of the many concerns that have been parasiti- cally fastened upon them. The utter worthlessness of the vast majority of these concerns was at once proved upon inquiry, and the taxpayers have at last awakened 3I4 EZGAT YEARS IN }APAN. to the consciousness that they have been robbed under specious pretences, such as assisting commercial progress, establishing manufactures that might obviate the neces- sity of imports, and demonstrating the genius and ability of Japanese men of business. This, however, is only a late phase. For years the government have been hoodwinked by the reports of subordinates, that great economy had been effected here, there, and everywhere, by the simple process of dispensing with the services of foreigners, and every Japanese commissioner, professor, cadet, or foreman who could represent himself as competent to supersede the foreigner, has been applauded for his energy and hailed as deserving well of his country, without due examination or check. That a continuous process of substitution of Japanese for foreigners is entirely justifi- able by the gradual and efficient attainment by the former of technical knowledge and sense of responsibility, is not to be denied—at any rate by one who has for years been personally concerned in the conduct of an important undertaking in which such a process has been kept in view and put in action almost from the first ; but it is undeniable that the credit of the proceeding, and of its happy results economically, has been appro- priated by those who have always been trying to do too much, and denied to those who have done all that was possible. So that after years of faithful service, and ungrudging co-operation in all that could promote efficiency and economy, a time comes when the conscientious foreign civil servant, who has deserved at least a share in the 7 OATVYO AAVZ) AAA OAVE. 3I 5 credit his department has won by its success before the government and the public, retires amid a general round of congratulations, awarded to each other by his Japanese colleagues and successors, who can choose what report shall be made to their departmental or ministerial superiors of the circumstances under which his continued service has been rendered impossible. They are secure of approval, who have so dealt with “One of the least of these ; ” and the departing “hired person,” who has probably acquired a certain amount of cynicism, and if he has been wise, has made provision for a rainy day, trolls out Ingoldsby's rhyme— “And still on these words of the bard keep a fixed eye, Ingratum si dixeris, omnia dixti !” In my own case, I may confess the working, long after the event, of what seemed an occurrence round and self-contained enough in all conscience, that was the misfortune that befel me in the early part of the year I88O, by the loss of all my goods and chattels with the destruction of the house I occupied. During the re- maining two years of my stay in Japan I was never settled down in any way, and, in fact, was less comfort- able even, than when in my first two years I was up country on surveying duty. Between February, 1880, and April of the following year, I had four different places in succession, wherein to lay my head ; and when I did get down to Kobe, such elements of uncertainty surrounded me as rendered it unadvisable to make arrangements that might constitute first a tie and then a loss. Thus successive removals added to my first bereavement ; and at last, when my few odds and ends 316 A.IGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. were sent to the hammer, to bring me in something less than half what they cost me, and my renewed library was simply shipped home again, so that Outside my hat and boots I had only the wide world and Providence to trouble me, it was a positive relief, as I anticipated it would be. A man's lines must indeed be cast in pleasant places if after eight years' absence his thoughts do not turn homeward ; and as the Japanese service knows no Such thing as furlough or privilege leave, such thoughts are fatal. - My last winter in Tökiyö was tolerably gay. Though many of my friends had departed, “gone before,” many still remained; and in the Public Works Department were yet two or three congenial colleagues. A gloom was Over the capital, however, owing to the almost constant fires that were taking place, of which a large proportion were attributed to incendiarism : and the clang of the fire-bell was seldom long absent from Our ears. On February 26th, a tremendous fire rose in the centre of the city and swept clean out into the open country, destroying about thirteen thousand houses, and clearing a space that was again and again extended by fires that seemed started with devilish ingenuity to take advantage of every change of wind, so that quarters that could not be attacked with one wind, were at the mercy of the next. On one occasion the palace itself was within an ace of being burnt down; only a sudden change of wind saved it, after the alarm guns had been fired, and the garrison turned out. Officials of all grades rushed to the scene, and while the Mikado was preparing to move over to another residence—of course with great TO AT/YO AAV/O HAA OAVAE. 317 ceremony, it being a point of honour and custom for high and exalted personages only to flee before fire when dressed in state robes and surrounded by their personal retinue, the courts of the palace were crowded: with horsemen, drenched with water from the roofs and slipping on the sheets of ice that soon covered the pavements, and with courtiers waiting stolidly for the ceremonial of departure. The danger was averted, fortunately; but the frosty streets were gay for hours with the lanterns of those going and returning, and the glare of the expiring flames reflected from sabre and bayonet and glittering harness. Strange tales were abroad of boys bribed by masked and disguised men to fire vacant houses ; of notices posted at night at street corners, warning the inhabitants of certain districts that their dwellings would be burnt down “at the first convenient opportunity;” and of Subsequent notices, in the depth of winter when snow fell and thawed and the city was deep in mud, that the “conflagrations had been postponed on account of the inclemency of the season.” When at last we did get a week without a great fire, a load was lifted off the mind of each dweller in the capital; but the householders of the various wards continued to band together, raising funds to pay the rent of all houses that fell vacant, so as to induce tenants to occupy them : as such untenanted and unwatched premises gave the likeliest chances to be seized by an incendiary. - On the Ist of March, the second great National Industrial Exhibition was opened by the Mikado with an imposing ceremony lasting from half-past eight till 3.18 FIGHT YEARS MAW 5A PAAV. two. This exhibition was a great advance upon that of three years and a half earlier, which I visited in my first month of residence in Tökiyö ; and was indeed on a far different and more comprehensive scale—if anything a trifle too comprehensive, for the contrast between some excellent works of an Italian artist in the employ of the government and the wretched imitative atrocities of native students hard by was ghastly ; and the mind must indeed have been farseeing that could discern a promise of future success in Japanese studies of foreign art-methods. But in the galleries devoted to modern examples of the pottery, porcelain, bronzes, or textile fabrics, embodying the traditional arts peculiarly Japanese, and profiting by improved and yet bolder processes of execution, while continuing the search after nature's bounty of form and expression,-one could find enough to repay day after day of admiring and sympathetic scrutiny. The art works and Imperial reception-rooms were in a permanent building designed by an English architect, Josiah Conder, whose residence of some years in the capital and observation of Japanese requirements and possibilities enabled him to produce a work worthy of the purpose and the situation. A nobly proportioned and simply graceful front, Crowned by dome and minaret, and indicating by the spacing of its windows and arcades the purpose that called it into being, stands in a clearing flanked by fine trees, and approached through a park that is one of the prides of Tökiyö. This is probably the most successful of the modern buildings of the city, which, however, can now boast some fine examples of architec- TOX/YO AAWD AAA OME. 3 IQ ture, chiefly works of the above-named gentleman and of M. de Boinville, who was for several years architect to the Public Works Department. There are also buildings, copies more or less of foreign examples, which, by their mass and in their several sites, add dignity to the capital and contrast admirably with the “packing-case” and “cheap toy" styles of earlier efforts, so prevalent in Japanese cities since the age of progress commenced. In addition to the permanent building referred to above, there were several large and lofty wooden annexes devoted to the purposes of the exhibition, and containing products, manufactures, and models from all parts of the empire. It was a subject of regret to myself that our purely utilitarian department contributed nothing to the display; but railway exhibits would for the most part have been out of place in a collection of native productions up to the present time. Later no doubt national pride may find justification in the original work of Japanese engineers; and I have quite agreed with those who think that the circumstances surrounding—and, if rightly taken, in some degree characterizing—work in Japan demand a large measure of originality, rather than mere perfunc- tory following of precedent. It is, however, a considera- tion not to be overlooked, that tried and proved methods are most consistent with the public safety, for which engineers and other railway men are held responsible. In the month of April, 1881, I left Tökiyö for Kobe; and the events of the succeeding twelvemonth are yet too recent to be fitly chronicled. Some interval of consideration, and the utilizing of new lights afforded by varying points of view, make in most cases all the 32O A/GAT YEARS ZW 9.4 PAN. difference between a reasonable charity and the unreason- ing want of it ; and after all, eight years and a half of earnest work and the fruits thereof, cannot be vitiated by a small group of circumstances attending the close of what is not an unimportant portion of a professional man's life. It is no bad thing to have added the chief places in a far-off land to the list of those that have seen us in the execution of work, and the discharge of responsibility, and have afforded opportunity for the for- mation of friendships that may last, or for co-operation with acquaintances who may not wholly condemn, when memory is the chief witness in the cause. In the moral as well as in the physical world, such as we are may perhaps hope that our accomplished work, spite of faults in intention, comprehension, and execution, may have tended to make “the crooked straight, and the rough places plain.” ( 321 ) CHAPTER XV. JOURNEY FROM NAGASAKI TO KOBE (1882). ON the night of the 3rd March, 1882, I went on board the Genkai Maru, then lying in Kobe harbour, bound to start with the daylight for Nagasaki (where my passage was to terminate) and Shanghai. The friends with whom I had been staying since my own establishment had been broken up were early birds,-in going to roost at least,--So I took leave of them shortly after dinner, and having previously sent servant and baggage on board, was able to stroll round by the club and assist in the discussions usually found in progress within the walls of the noble institution, from ten o’clock to midnight, to wit, the rightful interpretation of treaty clauses having reference to forbidden or permitted exports and imports; the value of the American Consul’s long clubs, and the moral turpitude of his unappreciative partner ; and the probability of another naval officer rolling his ball off the alley thirty consecutive times in the next bowling match. Without venturing to assert that complete harmony was established in the minds of the members present upon all these points, I may maintain that I was justified in believing that good y 322 A. ZGAT YEARS IN JAPAN. feeling, mutual charity, and common ignorance would, in the end, triumph over all obstacles, and that I might therefore withdraw with a clear conscience before mid- night. So I smoked my final cigar as I paced the deck of the steamer, having ascertained that I was not “doubled up" with any other passenger, strolling calmly backwards and forwards from the engine skylights to the taffrail, watching the gradual extinction of lights within the first- floor windows of the houses on the Bund, and counting the echoes from the moonlit hills of the last shrieks of beer-ful Germans seeking their rest. We had started before I was on deck next morning, and were leaving the straits of Akashi behind us—run- ning down the Inland Sea for the northern capes of Shikökü. Soon after breakfast we met the Takasago Marz, bound eastward, passing her near enough to recognize her passengers without the aid of a glass, and Some names (proper of course) familiar enough to the limited community of the far East were shouted and responded to. The Takasago is an old P. and O. vessel, formerly the Delta, but rechristened when she was acquired by the Mitsià-bishi Mail Steamship Company ; and with her barque rig and neat lines, formed a contrast to our old staggering side-wheeler, formerly the Costa Aºica of the Pacific Maíl Company, with her two little Sticks surmounting her tall packing-case of a hull and upper works. Takasago is the name of a Japanese port in the Inland Sea, and Genkai that of a stretch of water among the islands north-east of Kili-shiti, the “dark sea" is, I believe, the import of the characters composing the name, “Maru,” an affix to the names ŞOURNEY FROM NAGASAK7 TO KOBE. 323 of trading ships, as “Kan” is to those of men-of-war, is a Sort of definite article for special use—much as we say The Takasago—if we speak as precisians, and regard the use of articles before and behind as pleonastic. But precisians in Japan are by no means successes, more's the pity, being generally called upon first to explain, and then to be laughed at-and after all making about as many mistakes as common people. Our skipper, learned in tides and currents, selected what is called the north-west passage that afternoon, as our best track through the Archipelago that lies between the Bigo Nada and the Iyo Nada, the two middle divisions of the Inland Sea, the two outer ones being the Harima Nada, which we had already traversed, and the Suwo Nada, to be tackled in the coming night. Each of these open seas takes its name from a neigh- bouring province—Harima, Bigo, and Suwo being on the main island, and Iyo being part of Shikokā. Our ship ran in amongst these islands about half-past three ; and we kept our skipper company in front of the wheel- house, obedient to his summons, as he piloted us through the tortuous channel, mingling descriptions of the various islands, shoals, and sunken rocks, with adjura- tions to the quarter-masters who hung on to the double steering wheel. The ever-changing views of mountain and channel kept us to our post of observation, in spite of some bitter cold sleet-showers. We passed close to the shores of the mainland, where the road I was to return by was seen along the strand, with its border of matsu trees; and peeped into the bay of Mihara, some day to be the great dockyard and arsenal of Japan; and then 324 AAGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. headed away southward for clear water, just as the day- light faded away. When I arose on the morning of the 5th we were at anchor off Shimonoseki, having just run through the narrowest part of the straits. Here where the mongrel fleet once lay that administered a much-needed lesson to the Prince of Chöshiu, we had the mainland with the town to the west of us, while behind us lay the extreme corner of Kili-shill. The whole passage of the straits takes the form of the letter S, half of which we had traversed, so that the southern island cut us off from the Inland Sea, and the half yet to come was round the cape of the northern island, interposed between us and the ocean. Only slight vestiges remain of the forts that once commanded the passage, before their guns were captured and their lord mulcted in an indemnity that nobody knows what to do with. The place looks peaceful enough now—and the town is merely a place of business for the coasting trade, and depôt for rice. We had our purser and the mail-bags on board again by seven o'clock, and started away down the channel, passing a red beacon that marks the identical half-sunken rock upon which one of the semi-divine ancestors of the Imperial House is reported to have passed a very uncom- fortable half-hour in his infancy; and turning northward into the teeth of a hard blow and a swell that made our vessel pitch to an uncomfortable extent. I retired to my cabin—for reasons—and did not emerge therefrom till we were in still water under the lee of some islands, when the fundamental wholesomeness of my constitution came to the fore again, and I felt all the better for a pint of ŞOURNEY FROM NAGASA KZ TO AEOAAE. 325 champagne and a few stories in the style known as “American humour,” with which a thoughtful friend had provided me, to be taken concurrently with the above- named medicine in time of trouble. The Japanese, who now form the bulk of the passengers by these coast boats, always provide themselves with bottles labelled “Ant- emetic of Nausea Marina " before starting, and I hope it does them good. Certainly I remember once seeing a youth contrive to smash his bottle as he came up the ladder, and his expression of face thereupon exactly conveyed the idea that his head was off, until the in- evitable roar of laughter from the spectators, that in Japan salutes any mishap from a broken string to a bloody murder, cut short the situation. The afternoon was almost as enjoyable as that of the previous day, and round the coast of Hizen, and amongst its isles, we went on an even keel, turning in towards Nagasaki as the moon rose. It was ten o'clock nearly before we came to an arichor, and as I had no one expecting me, I remained on board for the night. Morning revealed a long, narrow, land-locked bay, with steep hills coming down to the water's edge, and a succession of minor bays between the bluffs. Behind the settlement, where foreign-style houses and consular flagstaffs predominated, rose a lofty hill, and a higher mountain backed the native town, further up the bay. A trim gunboat, flying the Russian ensign, lay off the town, opposite to which is a sort of dockyard belonging (by the courtesy of Japan) to the former nation, and a much less important looking place than I should have imagined, from all the row there was about it in 1878 326 A.IGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAV. and the following year, when there was talk of conflict between Russia and England first, and China afterwards. Several sailing vessels, notably two large barques belong- ing to the Mitsi-bishi Company, and a variety of small steamers, were moored here and there, and the place looked busy, obviously occupied chiefly with shipping coal, light lumber, and produce for China. - Of course the first thing was to seek the club and put one's name down. Then I sought out my friends, with one of whom I was glad to put up on the hill of Sagaramatsü, with an inspiriting view of a noble building on a newly formed terrace; a mission school I was told it was at first, but it turned out to be dwellings, as usual, for the mission staff. Another old acquaintance, Hugo to wit, hailed me with enthusiasm, and Convoyed me round the native town to buy tortoiseshell ware (chiefly, I believe, manufactured out of stained cow-hoofs) and photographs, and to dine at the restaurant of Fukuya, overlooking the native town, or rather its Cemetery. Much Arita pottery also I saw, some of it very cheap and very nasty—adapted for export to Germany, I was told ; some of it, however, fit to show anywhere for colour and design. On the second day 1 crossed the bay, and introduced myself to the English manager of the Government Engineering Works at Akanoura, going with him over the foundries and fitting-shops of an actively employed concern, turning out good work, chiefly for the steam merchant marine ; and then went round the bluff into the next bay, to see the great dry dock of Tategami, built by French engineers, and doing honour to those masters ŞOURNEY FROM NAGASAK/ TO KOBE. 327 of structural and hydraulic Science ; big enough to take in the largest ironclads, and solid enough to stand till the “crack of doom.” Back again to Sagaramatsü, and to find more new old acquaintances at the club and tennis ground, and to make fresh excursions into the native town in Search of jade and ivory, products of China, as often as not sold for Japanese work. Then I laid out for my return journey, vainly trying to induce wiser men than myself to join in the folly of an overland trip in March, of which, as will be seen, I had enough before I had done with it. Even friend Hugo, who at first volunteered to go with me as far as Ureshino, and there take hot baths for his health, deserted me when it came to the pinch ; and I started alone on the morning of the 9th, on my journey of nearly five hundred miles to Kobe —a hundred and ninety-eight “ri’ I made it altogether, four hundred and eighty-six miles, by road and coasting vessel. The first point was Tökitsu, at the southern ex- tremity of the bay of Omura, separated from that of Nagasaki by a double peninsula, one of the many that go together with a hundred isles to make up the province of Hizen ; itself a claw of land projecting from the main body of Kiu-shiti to enclose the Shimabara gulf. A fairly accurate representation of this corner of Japan may be obtained by pouring a few drops of ink from a height on to a sheet of paper, and then blowing upon them from several directions at once. . Granted the free Selection of a north point, and a choice whether the ink shall represent Sea or land, you may be said to have it, near enough for all practical purposes. 328 AZGA/T YEARS ZAV 9AAAAW. An hour and a half over a fair road, with only one hill in it, brought me to Tökitsū, a dirty little port and fishing town, just an hour too late for the morning steamer; so I had to wait till half-past one, devoting part of the interval to a stroll inland, which ended in my being escorted to the end of the pier by two hundred children with straw eye-glasses in imitation of my own “monocle,” and being then forgotten in face of the superior attraction of an auction of whale's blubber: and part to a Japanese tiffin. The inhabitants of Tökitsú, when they go out for a walk, always take with them, as we do an umbrella or a stick, each man a trident with a handle fifteen feet long, and when not busy with boats or nets, or lobster pots, lounge along the sea-shore and pick Sea-slugs Out of the Sand, casting them upon the world at large, to fertilize it, I suppose, for I could not see that they took any interest in what became of their prey otherwise. At last we saw our steamer in the distance, and it drew near to the landing-pier and discharged its passengers into a small boat, at several relays ; after which we also made use of the small boat and embarked in similar fashion, with the result of the tiny craft being so crammed that I thought myself lucky to get a seat on my portmanteau on top of the cabin, hard by the funnel, for so I could see what was the general state of things, and correct as it seemed to me, the faulty trim of the vessel by shifting my seat a few inches one way or the other as occasion required. The water was smooth, and the day perfectly calm, and I always think that an inglorious death can't be ŞOURAWAEY AROM NAGASAK7 ZO KOAAE. 329 designed for me; so we went along gaily so long as we kept a straight course. I confess to a tentative modifi- cation of my theory whenever the rudder was put over a little; but still it held good, and the shores and islands of Omura Bay looked pleasant in the sunshine. We called at the village of Omura itself—the name means only “large village,”—and picked up more passengers; and then coasted along through shallows where a channel was buoyed out by floating bamboos tied by Straw- rope to Sunken stones. Even in the calm water it was impossible to make these out till we were nearly upon them, and how they could assist the pilot iſ it were windy or dark passed my comprehension; most probably the boats only run in fine weather. It was nearly sunset when we reached SOSOgi, another Tökitsú, and binding our baggage upon two jinrikishas, started to walk over the pass to Ureshinö. The road was on an easy incline most of the way, and had manifestly been lately improved, as the worst part of it was through a village on a hill-side, where any alteration must have destroyed the village altogether. Night fell before we reached the summit ; but though the moon was yet below the horizon the stars shone out brightly, and I strode ahead of my boy, and the baggage, enjoying the walk. A little way over the top the jinrikishas passed me; but I retained the boy, who had a lantern, and a candle alight in it, as we had heard that the new road down the hill was yet unfinished in places. So it was ; we crossed some gaps by temporary bridges, so frail and narrow that I looked down to see if the baggage was not lying in the stream at the bottom ; but 33O A. ZGAT YEAAES ZW 9AAAAV. time and tramping brought us to our destination before nine O'clock. I was too tired to bother about the baths, and it seemed, except the public ones, there was no such thing to be had ; SO I made a frugal Supper, and slept. Next morning I found the public baths, and paying at the entrance, examined the interior ; but a look at the people forbade my entering even medicinal waters in such company, spite of the callousness engendered by long experience of Japan and the ways of its Sons and daughters. The baths themselves were well arranged, a series of square boxes lined with square tiles, and water—hot and plenty of it—was doing its best for the bathers. Unlike most of these bathing stations, at Ure- Shind the women's baths are separated, and if I had not blundered in at the wrong door to start with I should have supposed the ladies did not patronize the waters. I started away at half-past eight, Over a very bad road, insomuch that it took me two hours and a half to do a little over seven miles, which brought me to Takiwo, a large and thriving town, also a bathing-place, where for the first and only time I saw a horse led into the hot water. The baths lie at the foot of a scarp, with a sort of Square in front, Surrounded by tea-houses of a kind that travellers, not altogether Japanese, don't care to enter. Here we changed our vehicles, and made our way to Takahashi, a dirty hole where our men, who had taken the measure of my servant, left us in the lurch. In such case, however, the proper move is to have tiffin, and by the time that is concluded something is sure to turn up. It is not often, fortunately, that one has to delay in a place so unspeakably filthy as Takahashi. 500RNEY FROM MAGASAKZ 70 KOBAE. 33 I From here to Saga the road is level, Stony and rough, and runs through a lot of mean villages. The neighbour- hood of an important town was betrayed by the coaches we met or found standing by the roadside. The bodies of these vehicles resemble in type those of the grand chariot in which the band of an itinerant circus goes about in state ; but they have seats to the same extent as an egg-box has, and in dimensions are adapted to accommodate ten Japanese, or say two Europeans. Of the horses the less said the better; of the drivers and cads nothing would induce me to say a word. I resisted all importunities to engage one of these vehicles, and shamelessly rode on into Saga in a common jinrikisha. My boy took me direct to a place where he believed there was an inn; but it turned out that he was mistaken, and, further, that he had never been in Saga before, nor met with any one (except our team) who had. But in a land of telegraphs—for we had struck the main lines from Nagasaki to Tökiyo at Takiwo—no foreigner need be at a loss ; a clerk, or failing that, a porter or office attendant of any kind, will always tell you where the foreigners used to lodge who were connected with the department in former days; and there you may be generally accommodated. I found in this way a very good lodging; but had to traverse all the principal streets and two-thirds of the by-streets of this large and flourish- ing place before I reached it. However, my observation furnished me with a fact to moralize upon—namely, that the youth of Saga love riding upon bicycles of a pattern now obsolete elsewhere. I moralized accordingly, and slept Soundly. 332 EIGHT YEARS IN 5APAN. On the IIth, I was off early, and traversed the re- maining streets of Saga before leaving the place. Of the ancient castle only the moats remain ; but there are no end of temples—one, I believe, dedicated to the memory of Yeto Shimpei, who was beheaded in 1874, with his chief surviving companions in arms against the government. Such unlucky persons are invariably remembered kindly after death, which wipes out all mistakes-and credited with motives so good that it is thought an honour to have fought either with or against them. The road from Saga lies across paddy fields for several miles, and then over undulating ground of Small elevation, but of a loamy soil that makes miserable roads; insomuch that between Tajiro, where we made our mid-day halt, and Futsuka-ichi I found it best to walk. A full hour was lost this afternoon, and another Spent, Over the temple of Da-zai-fü—a much venerated shrine, Said to have been founded near a thousand years ago, and for which I cared as much as a pilgrim does for a flea. My boy, however, had his reasons for visiting it, and from Futsuka-ichi sent on a jinrikisha to overtake me, and bring me round by a long circuit while he took a short cut. I resisted being forcibly removed from the high road, by any couple of unintroduced coolies at their Own good-will and pleasure ; but a glimmering of the truth at last possessed me, and I consented to be drawn to the temple, which lies some distance off the road, at the foot of the loftier hills. I found the boy and the baggage at an inn hard by the temple gates; and there learnt for the first time that I had expressed a con- ŞOURNEY FROM AVAGASA KZ 7'O KOA E. 333 suming desire to visit Da-zai-fü during the whole of the previous two days. At any rate, it was easy now to be rid of such desire for evermore, so I went into the enclosure, walked across the whispering bridges, admired the bronzes, stared at the patriarchal trees and their patriarchal props and crutches, bought an explanatory bird’s-eye view of the whole £remölement, asked some questions to which I could get no satisfactory answers, and turned my back upon the place. There are three courts, divided off by stockades, and having the usual covered gateways to connect them. The biggest bronze is a “kirin,” or winged horse, who was, I noticed, supplied with a complete set of straw shoes, such as pack-horses wear on the road, in case he should wish to start off for anywhere. They were not on his feet, but were placed “convanient,” as an Irishman would say. The shrine itself (the chief, that is, of some score of shrines) is only remarkable for Some curious combinations of rings and brass tickets hung up on the pillars, the use of which I tried in vain to ascertain, but doubt not they were in- tended to facilitate the realization of the prayers of the faithful and the incomes of the clergy. Returning down through the village, I noticed that the main street was marked off by stone posts, mortised for the support of flagstaffs, and lanterns (tóró) at regular intervals, for a long distance away from the shrines ; and as we turned down a by-lane for a short cut back into the main road, we met a party of about fifty female pilgrims, dressed in white, and intoning some prayer or canticle as they slowly scaled the hill. As it was now getting well on in the afternoon, they had probably come 334 A/GAT YEARS IN }APAN. from some distance—perhaps Fukuoka, whither I was bound, and where I arrived soon after nightfall. That is, I thought I was in Fukuoka, but it turned out that the town only bears that name properly in the immediate neighbourhood of the old castle, now the offices of the local government. The commercial town is Hakata, the street in which I stopped is Kawabata-machi, the inn is Yebiya, and the landlord's name Rikigoye ; and I was very comfortably lodged, into the bargain, and the people of the house sent across the river and bought me some Bass. Next morning (12th) I'visited the castle; but it being Sunday, could not get in to see anything. Not that the people are either Christians or grumpy, but that the convenience of keeping the same holidays as foreigners do has been felt in the treaty ports, and the practice has come into general use wherever the telegraph goes. So I had to put up with the shrine of Hachiman, the warrior god of mythic times, and the Koyenchi, or public park, which contains the graves of many hundred men who fell in 1877, symmetrically arranged in rows, and well tended. It was more than half-past ten when I left the town on my onward way. Fukuoka, or Hakata, is on the coast, and my road lay along the seashore for some distance. Here I began to feel the inclemency of the season, for a bitter cold wind was blowing from the north, bringing with it sleet- showers, and the roads turned out very bad. So did the men, and what with these combined troubles and with some slight illness that I attributed to Nagasaki tinned meats, I was glad to stop at Akama rather early, ŞOURNEY AROM MAGASA KZ TO KOBAE. 335 and put up even with poor accommodation in that dirty village. I heard that the next portion of the road was so hilly that we should have to walk some distance to Ashiya ; but on sallying forth next morning I found all the baggage in one vehicle, and a single coolie to draw it, so that it was evident the road could not present any formidable difficulties. Indeed, after the first two miles, which were certainly up-hill, the road was a very fair one, and we all made good time into Ashiya. About two miles before reaching that place a lovely view was obtained from the brow of a spur that the road wound over, commanding a vast stretch of country to the south- ward. Ashiya itself is a thriving port at the mouth of the Unkawa (river Un), over which we were ferried, still with our one jinrikisha for the baggage. I looked about for more, but could get no lift for another six or scven miles, so that I had walked altogether some fifteen, which, with a rheumatic knee and a disordered digestion, was quite enough when we raised the balance of wheels required. Riding was if possible worse, for the bitter north wind came down upon us again from the sea, and if I had not donned good thick flannels as a precaution for the walk I believe I should have died then and there. As it was I reached Wakamatsü more like an icicle than a human being. Here I got some rice, and infused some warmth into my system ; SO that I felt better on the road to Kökura. At Wakamatsu we were ferried across the mouth of an extensive inlet that we had been skirting some time before reaching that place, passing a little island devoted apparently to the manufacture of 336 Æ/GAT YEARS ZAV 34 PAAV. briquettes, a sort of artificial fuel. At Kökura my bad luck stuck to me, for if I had done right I should have gone on by road to a place called Mosé, or something like it, and there taken boat for Shimonoseki, crossing the straits where they are only about a mile and a half wide, whereas the transit from Kökura took over four hours, being against wind and tide, and it was dark before we landed at Shimonoseki, and I suffered dismally from the cold. Some hot whiskey and water, and no stint of it, revived me ; so that even the intelli- gence that the bath was out of repair failed to extinguish me, and I walked down the street a few doors with nothing on but a pair of boots and a waterproof, had a good stew in a hot bath that was not out of repair, returned to my inn, jumped into dry flannels and a sleeping jacket, ate my supper, drank the remainder of the bottle of whiskey and all the hot water there was in the big kettle, and slept the cold right out of me without stirring. I had thus during five days traversed the province of Hizen throughout its length, the northern coast of Chi- Rüzen, and a little corner of Büzen, leaving to the south- ward Higo, Chikügo, and Bügo. These terminations “zen” and “go" denote position with reference to the old capital, Kiyoto, and may be rendered “hither ” and “yonder,” the road from Kiyoto to Bügo leading through Büzen, and so on. In some cases there is an intermediate district, the descriptive character suffixed to the general name being pronounced “chiti.” Thus along the northern shore of the Inland Sea one comes successively, going towards the capital as I was doing, Bigo, Bichiu, and Bizen. It does not follow that these districts are three ŞOURNEY FROM MAGASAKZ 7O KOBE. 337 divisions of one larger province, for we find in the suc- cession of provinces along the north-west coast Echizen divided from Etchiu, or Echi-chiu, and Echigo by the intervening province of Kaga, one of the most important in the empire. Though only nineteen of the eighty-five provinces are named in this way, a mental note of their position affords a great help to remembering the internal geography of the empire. The political divisions of the country are called “Fu’’ and “Ken,” and their boundaries do not invariably correspond with provincial limits ; they are forty-three in number, only three of them, containing the citics of Tökiyö, Kiyoto, and Osaka, being called “Fu.” The northern island of Yezo, containing eleven provinces, has only lately been divided into “Ken,” or prefectures, as we may render the term, raising the number to that given above. The minor divisions, arrondissements, or districts, are called “kori.” On rising from my quilts on the 14th, I felt at once that I was restored to my usual health and spirits after the somewhat rough experiences of the day before, and started away gaily at half-past eight, by a good road, that wound along under the bluff beside the strait for some distance. A steamer of some four hundred tons that left a little before I did, afforded a good idea, by her comparative progress, of the strength of the current she met with, for my men, going at an easy trot along the winding road, headed her a short distance from Shimonoseki. Once through the straits, however, she gave us the go-by, and was soon only a speck on the broad bosom of the Suwo Nada. Z 338 FIGHT YEARS IN }APAN. The day was fine, and we had the shelter of the hills, being now on the southern coast of the mainland; so I could enjoy the scenery of the district through which I was passing, untroubled by aches or pains. From Yoshida, a “long " town by the shore, we turned inland and over a small pass, and made a halt at Asaichi, where I was served with a dish of scrambled eggs and tiny fish, a speciality of the place, that I unanimously redemanded. The inland scenery was charming, and we progressed well till reaching Fünáki, where the usual afternoon trouble began. It is nearly always difficult to get men for a long stage late in the day, as they do not like returning by night; and here I was delayed nearly an hour (which I devoted to a general inspection of the local wares) before my servant struck a bargain with some men to take me fifteen miles to Ogori, five miles short of my destination that night. It was Consequently dark before we reached the outskirts of Yamaguchi, the chief town of the prefecture ; but I was gratified to see by the illuminations on the hill-sides that the people expected me, or that some other reason had caused them to set fire to the coarse winter grass and under- wood. This revised theory was suggested by my finding that the people of the inn at which I put up, in all confidence, would have nothing to do with me, insomuch that when I expected my supper, the boy told me he had been too busy looking for another inn to see about anything else. I therefore resumed my boots, and turned a deaf ear to the representations of the household that it was all a mistake, and that they hoped I would stop. On I went into the centre of the town, to the head 900RNAEY FROM NAGASA KZ TO KOAAE. 339 police office, and asked there for a recommendation to a respectable lodging, being Soon housed just opposite. I had only just established myself in the rooms, when a very juvenile policeman came in to examine my passport ; he was evidently a too conscientious youth, for he endeavoured to make an exact copy of it. As it was not a departmental pass, but one of the kind usually obtained through the British Legation, enclosed in a printed notice headed by the lion and the unicorn, and signed Harry S. Parkes, he had his work cut out for him ; but after a vain attempt to imitate the seal, he gave it up with a deep sigh, and gazing at me speech- lessly for five minutes, departed with a still deeper O1162. I had been not a little amused by the difference in behaviour of the local authorities, many a time before, in respect of passports. No demand was made for mine between Nagasaki and Shimonoseki; at the latter place it was merely glanced at, while in general it Seemed to be quite unnecessary in country districts, but indispensable in the large towns. I would not, however, recommend any one to suppose that by dodging about he can travel in Japan without a passport, it may be demanded at any moment, and must then be produced, or the traveller is at once turned back, with what seems deserved ignominy, and conducted to the nearest treaty port. Yamaguchi itself I saw but little of; it seemed to be a rambling town in a pocket of hills, and as it actually lies off the main road, I had at starting on the I5th, to return thereto, by another way, cutting across a 34O FIGHT YEARS IN JAPAN. level country for some distance, and then up over some spurs till I reached a “saka,” or steep road up a hill, of which I had heard as a formidable pass. I should say it was about three hundred and fifty feet to the top; steep enough certainly, but the rest-houses at the Summit, with their pretty gardens, seemed ridiculously unneces- sary. However, I found that I had come upon it from the inland Side, and the descent towards the coast was respectably long and sharp; and I resisted the impor- tunities of the jinrikisha man that I would ride, until we came to a less dangerous incline. Then we crossed a river by ferry, and found ourselves in Miya-ichi, a fine village possessing a handsome shrine on a hill, from the court of which we had a good view seawards, across a couple of intervening miles of marsh ; with a port, Mitajiri, from which it was evident one could go by Steamer to a good many places, if the smoke from numerous funnels was any criterion. My insidious boy told me that the shrine was another Da-zai-fü, evoking memories that brought down curses on his head, which he converted into smiles and chuckles. I soon started onwards, by a road that shortly skirted the seashore, passing around a bluff into a lovely bay, the waters of which washed the feet of rocky cliffs, of . alternate granite and metamorphic rocks. Then inland again, and over a hill into a pretty valley and the village of Hetamura, where we halted for lunch ; and after that, over another hill to the sea coast again. What would have been a lovely prospect was unfortunately marred by heavy rain, that commenced soon after midday, and after passing Tóishi and turning our backs once govKWEY FROM MAGASAK7 7o KORE. 34I. more upon the sea, we reached a poor village called Hanaðka (which, from the termination of the name, should have possessed a castle, but I saw none), and up for the night, discerning signs of fine weather for the II].OTIOW. An early start on the 16th, enabled us to get over some rough ground before tiffin, which we made at Kuga, in the valley of a fine rushing river that disap- peared southward into a rough-looking gorge. Then we climbed a steep but short pass with a double summit and long descent into the valley of a river running north- ward apparently, and from which we turned southward up a tributary. Strange country, I thought, where the main rivers run inland and the tributaries come from the seal But we had in fact been passing along the back of a hilly promontory of some extent; and turning over another ridge found ourselves at the mouth of an impor- tant river, and under the ancient walls of Iwakuni castle, with the town opposite to us. This is really a lovely Spot, and is renowned for a curious bridge connecting the fortress and the town, the steepness of the road between the piers and the crown of each arch converting the passage into a feat of gymnastics. What a wonderful revelation it must have been when the last generation of bridge-builders happened to see a level bridge | It is impossible to account for the fantastic forms of some of the Japanese arches, except on the supposition that they thought all bridges must be humped like a camel, in the nature of things. - We crossed by a ferry boat, slung on to a rope stretched across the river ; and turning towards the coast, went 342 A.IGHT YEARS IN }APAN. through a knot of sand-hills and along an embankment bordering lands reclaimed from the sea, to a little village at the world’s end, where the road came to an abrupt stop under a cliff. At this place, where we found we had run into a trap as it were, we were delayed for an hour and a half before we settled terms with a boatman to take us across to Utsukushima, the holy island of the Inland Sea, a passage of Some twelve miles from Shin- minato, the trap aforesaid. This was an exploit of my boy's, who had been induced by the jinrikisha coolies to turn aside to this place, instead of going by the regular road to Ogata, whence there is a ferry of only two miles to the island. He said he had ascertained that no boats were to be had at Ogata, which was absurd, impossible, and incredible, besides being untrue. However, there was no help for it ; and I know that unless one manages everything oneself, and makes original mistakes, one must put up with things as they come ; besides, it is no use keeping a dog and barking oneself. So we set sail for the island, and progressed some half-mile before the wind forsook us. Then our man and his boy took to their sculls, and presently the man, being the nobler animal, devoted himself to the cooking of rice, leaving the boy to propel the boat ; and when the rice had been washed and boiled, the man seized his scull and worked like a fury till we touched the nearest point of the holy island, when he moored the boat and began his meal. It was no use landing here as we were not yet half-way to the village of Miyajima, the only one on the island, and quite at the other end ; so when our boatman had finished stoking up, he pushed 900RNAEY FROM MAGASA KY 70 KOPAE. 343 off again, and we coasted along as the stars shone out. In another mile or two we struck a breeze, and hoisted the sail. This windfall lasted us till within a couple of ſmiles of our destination, at which we arrived about nine o'clock. We soon found a good inn ; and after a little disputation, a good room ; and after a good deal of waiting, a good Supper; and after all, refreshing slumbers. - After an early breakfast next morning, we sallied out, in charge of the guide who had been laying for us since our arrival, to visit the shrines; going round the shore into a beautiful bay enclosed within wooded promontories, and with a sandy bottom dry at low water. In the centre, surrounded by the waves at high tide, is a torii, or gateway, through which persons of exalted rank, arriving on pious errands from the main- land, may pass in their boats if they like ; but there is nothing to prevent their passing, with less trouble, on either side of it. The temple is built on piles over the water, and connected with the sides of the bay by long galleries roofed over. At the entrance of these I compromised the matter of taking off boots, by putting on a huge pair of slippers over all, in spite of the protestations of my boy, who said that it was a well- known fact that the Japanese Chief Commissioner of Railways, when he last visited the shrines, went about them in unmitigated boots to his heart's content. Being only an Englishman, I stuck to my slippers, and traversed the galleries, which are hung all round with the most wonderful native pictures, the majority of which represent processions by land or water; but there 344. A:/GHT YEARS ZM 3APAAV. are some dreadful gods and goddesses, horses, land and sea-scapes, and curiosities of various Sorts. There is supposed to be something very wonderful in the roof of the central shrine ; and as the portal, beyond which one does not pass, is low, this wonder cannot be seen unless one goes down on hands and knees; which prayerful attitude, however, I declined to assume on any earthly consideration, wonder or no wonder, to the great and manifest disappointment of the priest and the guide, and the unconcealed joy of my servant, who had almost given me up as a person of no moral back- bone over the affair of the slippers. At the far end of the galleries, that is on the other side of the bay, we found the usual beggars in waiting, namely, fifty children and twenty deer, the latter seeking bean-cakes, and the former ready to sell the same. I produced the smallest silver coin known to the land ; but my boy intercepted it, and for three half- pence acquired the whole supply of bean-Cakes, which the deer made no bones about whatever; and we departed, leaving everybody happy. Then we went up the valley behind the shrines, to a pretty little pavilion called the “Momiji Chaya” (“maple tea-house”), where there were fountains, with dancing balls, and other facilities for passing a happy day. I was at least a month too early for the maples ; when they are breaking into leaf the place must be lovely. Then we went back over the spur to the village, calling in at a big hall, a hundred and fifty feet long by seventy-two broad (twenty-five “ken’ by twelve “ken’’), said to have been built by Hideyoshi. It is a roughly designed place, and from its ŞOURNEY FROM AVAGASA.KZ ZO KOBE. 345 tumble-down appearance might have been built by Hide- yoshi's grandfather—barring that as a self-made man, he hadn't such a thing. Hard by is a pagoda, said to be a copy of that at Töji, Kiyoto, but nothing like the size of the original. I was, however, told, that the principle of construction was the same, the destructive vibrations arising from earthquakes being checked by suspending an enormous mass of wood in a central well between the top story and the ground floor. It is hung from the main beams of the roof, and touches nothing below, so that it takes up and absorbs all vibrations of the smaller parts in its mass. This piece of wood at Töji is an enormous trunk of cryptomeria, about seventy feet long and five in diameter; and is suspended by numerous ties of “kashi’’ (the toughest known Japanese wood) mortised into the beams and the weight, and secured. with copper keys. The village itself is not in any way interesting, being composed almost entirely of inns and shops for the sale of mementos. It is, however, rather comical to find deer taking the place of dogs in the streets, lying under the shop boards or in Sunny corners, or stealing rice out of the boats, and to see the monkeys come down on to the roofs and lurk about the tea-houses for dainties. I think one could well pass some days in Utsuku- shima, for the island is several square miles in extent, mountainous and finely wooded, and from its higher portions must command some lovely prospects over the surrounding sea and the neighbouring mainland ; but not in March—probably May or October would be the 346 AC/GAT YEARS IN }APAN. best months of the year, for such a “retreat.” One might then find out something about the shrines, and the religious ideas attached to them ; but I confess that one saint or god is to me so much like another, that I count it as so much time lost, that is devoted to Sorting them out. I am always glad to hear of a man inquiring, if he is disposed to believe—if not, he had better leave it alone, and not add his own waste of time to other people's. At noon we started for Hiroshima, another transit of some dozen miles by boat, making right for the main- land till we got within half a mile of the shore, and then hoisting sail and coasting. Half-way on Our passage the wind failed us as usual, and we had to Scull—or rather our boatmen had to—till we reached the shallows and the fishing stations, and then to pole among the stakes into the mouth of the river, up which we made a tedious progress to the town, one of the most celebrated in the empire. Its glories are departed, however, like those of so many others, the sites of the old castle and of the former residence of the daimio being now waste, except for a modern barrack, hospital, and telegraph office in the corners of them. Business, however, seems to be thriving, and the river was crowded with passage boats and plea- sure boats, nor were the twang of the samisen or the shrieks of saké-laden roisterers wanting. One jovial party, who kept near us all the way from the mouth of the river, seemed determined to make the most of their time: they were so crowded together in a small boat that the gunwale was almost level with the water, and at every convenient Sandbank they stepped out and baled ŞOURNEY FROM MAGASAKI TO KOBE. 347 their vessel, and drew afresh upon the tub of Saké, and the box of sweatmeats, before starting again for the next cruise. We reached the centre of the town about half-past six, and soon found a lodging ; and the people of the house hunted me up a chair and rolled an empty Saké tub into the room for a table ; first laying down thin mats (“goza ") on top of the floor mats (“tatami") as a protection. It seemed to me that Hiroshima was a very dissipated place, and the row in the other rooms of the inn was something quite out of the way even in Japan, where happy people are most demonstrative. I had finished my dinner, and bought some native-made cigarettes, for my supply of cigars had run out, when the slides of my room suddenly opened at the side— where I had not thought there was anything but a cup- board—and a fat, merry-looking, middle-aged man appeared. “Igirisă l’ he said, lifting up his hands; and I confessed to being English ; whereupon he proceeded to ask me for various particulars as to my belongings and destination. I happened (it is not always so) to be good-humoured at the time, and entered into the Spirit of the thing by asking similar questions as to his own proceedings ; and the end of it was that he sat down on the floor, while I showed him what a famous thing a sake-tub is ; what an excellent table it makes, with the big end upwards, covered with a fair white cloth; how merrily one can drum upon its sides and top, if one wants music of a more refined description than the samisen can furnish ; how exactly it suits as a leg-rest for the wearied traveller ; and how convenient it is, to 348 A. ZGAZ" YEARS IN 9AAAAV. impart through the bung-hole the aroma of sakê, with- out the trouble of drinking it. Then he, on his part, told me of his acquaintances in the capital, when he was an officer of the Naval Department, many of whom I knew well; and we finished up the evening with sweatmeats and hot grog, and a discussion of the attractions of Miyājima, whither he was bound on the In Orſo V. In the morning I was grumpy, and evaded the eſſusiveness, not yet exhausted, of my neighbour, starting away at half-past seven, with the very worst lot of jinrikisha-men I ever met with ; but I noticed one man start with injured pride when I asked the boy what paddy-field he had picked these slow-going old duffers out of or words to that effect, and at once promoted the starter to be my own man, with good results; for he ran well, and the others puffed and groaned after him, that it would have made the wellzin (had there been such a thing) ring. We passed a long village that was evidently the last home of all the oystershells of the Inland Sea, and, if I recollect aright, it has a name importing as much,-and turned inland up a long valley till the men jibbed, and swore that no man could go beyond that spot (Ikanda) with a load. It was getting pretty steep ; so we chartered a fresh vehicle for the baggage, and started to walk, up a winding gorge with a tumbling stream foaming amongst big boulders; and after a mile or two, arriving at a fork of the road, I asked of a policeman who was leading a manacled malefactor (to make a charitable surmise) which was the best way. The policeman held his peace, but the malefactor sat ŞOURNEY FROM MAGASAK/ TO KOBE. 349 down, and producing a pipe and tinder-box, informed me, between half a dozen whiffs, that the right-hand road was the old one, but was bad, led over a hill, and met the other again on the far side, saving about two miles and a half over the new road, which was nearly level. I thanked him, and lit a cigarette, upon which he begged for one, which I gave him, and the policeman took another ; and I left them smoking amicably on the road side as I strode up the hill. I suppose my followers didn't ask any questions, for they went the long road with the baggage, and I was over the hill, which I found steep and rough, and high enough to tire me, and rest- ing at a roadside “tateba,” when they came up and protested that they had feared I was lost and conse- quently had been much troubled in their minds. From here we procured fresh vehicles, with if possible a worse lot of impostors in the shafts than we had before ; but we struggled on to Yokkaichi, over an up-and-down Sandy road ; and after taking tiffin, found some better IIle11. Going forward we crossed a queer country—always rising, but at each turn expecting to go down into the valley, as we had apparently reached the summit; but Seeing at the bend another hill, towards which we turned, and from that another, and so on, till we suddenly found ourselves in a deep narrow cutting, with an aqueduct Some fifty feet overhead. Then we began to descend, and a wonderful drop it was, the road leading now South, now north, doubling back under the spurs of cross valleys, down to the bottom of a ravine, and then in a few steps high up on the side of a deeper gorge; every 35O A/GAT YEARS ZW 9AAAA: available inch terraced out for cultivation, and dominated by little cottages perched high up on the hills—a thoroughly characteristic piece of Japanese hill farming. At last we reached a deep defined valley opening eastwards, and came to the village of Tanari, where a clock at the transport office pointed to six, and the boy proposed to put up for the night. Referring to my watch, in some doubt—for we were so low down in the gorge that it seemed as if night were falling, I found it not half-past four, so ordered a further march ; and with fresh men we passed still down-hill for about a mile ; and then, to my astonishment and disgust, struck Off to the left away from the water. Now I found that we had to ascend just such another valley as we had come down, the gorge from the junction of the two, with a fine broad road through it, pointing directly southward to the coast. Up the long steep pass we toiled, crossing the summit as the Sun Sunk below the crest of the hills to the west ; and then over a wretched road, slowly down, with sharp counter-rises at intervals, into the darkness of a river valley, and at last out from the hills on to an embankment. It was now so dark, that after one or two narrow escapes from capsizing, I took to my legs for the four-hundredth time that day, and felt my way with the point of my umbrella, calling out at each hole to warn the men behind. At last we found a village, and raised some candles for our lanterns; and then on through the foggy valley bottom till we struck the river again, and found a long temporary bridge connecting the inner slopes of two lofty embankments. As we had to shift the 500RNEY FROM NAGASAK/ TO KOBAE. 35 I baggage, for the planks were not wide enough to take the wheels with safety,+this obstacle took half an hour to pass, and we then found ourselves in Hongo; and in due course in a hot bath, outside Supper, and under the quilts, after a very hard day's work. Rain came on in the night, and continued in the morning, so that our start on the 19th was deferred to nearly nine o'clock, when we followed down the river bank till near the sea, and then diverged through an opening between two hills, and struck across for Mihara, traversing that dirty town and skirting the ruinous ramparts of its castle, and emerging upon the Seashore upon which I had looked a fortnight before from the Genkai Maru. Rain spoilt the view of the islands; and Soon we were skirting a creek, bordered by a long suc- cession of salt-pans and boiling-houses, leading to Onomichi, a busy and thriving place, where we had tiffin in a neat tea-house attached to the transport office. - Still rain, heavy rain ; but on we went, taking an easy line of country behind the coast hills, till we Suddenly turned at right angles to the main road and telegraph line, and in a few miles entered Fukuyama ; and glad I was to be housed, though we had not made a good day's progress. But if I had gone on along the straight road, I should never have known that we could get Bass in Fukuyama, or that previous travellers had so dealt with the innkeeper with whom I lodged, that he had forgotten the usual moderate scale of charges, and adopted an extravagant one based upon dollars. 352 EIGHT YEARS IN 9AAAAW. On the 20th, we started at 8 A.M., traversing a winding road through a knot of hills, till we came upon an inland plain, striking the telegraph line again. Over a low watershed we came into the valley of the Imad'zūgawa, a river in which I noticed a number of float wheels working rice-hulling mills, fixed on boats moored in the rapids. Beyond this the road was ghastly; of course I walked, and the vehicle containing the baggage was actually carried over great part of the road by the coolies and some farmers’ men they pressed into the service, and required me to pay for their trouble; and I couldn't refuse, seeing what they did for us, and what we could not have done without them. We were Crossing a tract of low ground, intersected by numerous embanked tributaries of a main river, upon which we came at last, finding that the rain of yesterday was coming down in a turbid flood. I made it out to be the Yatasegawa ; but every river in Japan has a score of names, generally traceable to the next village on its banks up-stream from the point of inquiry—so that doesn’t go for much. Deyond the ſerry we came to some hard ground in a knot of hills, but soon got down into the paddy again ; and just as I had noted the commencement of the branch telegraph line to Shikökü, our men caved in from their exertions, and we were fortunate enough to get fresh ones without any great delay. It was dark before we reached the suburbs of Okayama, a fine town, the existence of the like of which I had not previously suspected in that part of the country, though it is the chief place in Bizen, and the market of a large agricul- 500 RNAEY FROM NAGASA KZ TO KOAAE. 353 tural district. We rattled through long and busy streets, crossing at last a long bridge Over a navigable river, and turning into a street parallel to the bank, the entrance to which was occupied by a crowd of hotel touts. I pulled up the vehicles to one side, and sent my boy to reconnoitre; for it was evident that a large proportion of the houses practised a kind of hospitality more comprehensive than suited my taste. He soon found a quiet lodging, in the which I settled down to tolerable comfort. y f 21st. I dare say that Ökayama would well have repaid the trouble of an exploration, to any one interested in temples or antiquities; but I had in the course of my travels seen so many Japanese towns, with the result of storing my memory chiefly with impressions of the wretched nature of the manufactures by which native industry strives to compete with imported goods, and the wonderful good faith with which the consumer accepts a forgery of a foreign trade-mark displaying half the letters turned the wrong way about, or upside down, or into some other letter altogether, so that a judge, if there were such a thing in Japan, could hardly call them colourable imitations even, that I count the general features of a district, or even of a road, of more importance than the details of a city; and was reconciled to turning my back upon Okayama at eight o'clock in the morning. We found a level road for some distance Out of the town, and then wound round some hills and crossed a river with high embankments. A little further On we came upon an irrigation feeder of great volume and velocity, that struck me at once as indicating an 2 A 354 - EAGAT YEARS IN 5A PAM, advanced stage of agricultural enterprise; and following this up for some two or three miles, came to a high bank bordering upon a large and Swift river, upon which long boats, built in the peculiar style that in Japan Surely betokens a difficult navigation amongst rocks and rapids, were passing down stream in a constant suc- cession. The river bed was broad, though the channel occupied but a small portion of it; over this we were ferried, close by the telegraph line, that crosses in two long spans, the posts on the bank and in the centre being very lofty. At all these swiftly flowing rivers, wide in time of flood, the telegraph crossing can be distinguished from afar, as the wires gradually rise from the ordinary land line to the elevation necessary to carry them over the span, in some instances of over a quarter of a mile from post to post. We followed up the left bank of this river, the Yeshigawa, for a short distance, finding that at the point where it issues from a hilly district on to the plain, an enormous weir had been run across from the inner corner of a long bend, so as to leave only a small rapid channel close by the left bank, which was substantially protected by groynes and heavy piling. The channel thus made a long loop trebling the distance on the real axis of the river bed between the upper and lower sides of the weir, above which, opposite to us, the head of the irrigation stream we had already seen was visible, the sluices having a considerable drop between the river surface and the channel beyond the embankment. A somewhat similar feeder was taken off from the left side, through a double sluice with an intermediate pond. ŞOURNEY FROM MAGASAK/ TO KOBE. 355 Our road lay along the foot of the high ground, gently rising past two picturesque reservoirs, substan- tially embanked across the narrowing valley behind an outlying knot of hills. We turned oſſ the road to see a wonderful “matsü" tree, about fifteen feet high, but with a spread of something like a hundred and thirty feet, the huge limbs curling over from the root, and running out over props that supported them just about high enough from the ground for us to get under by stooping. I gladdened the heart of the lessee of this exhibition by partaking of a cup of tea, and buying a couple of fans bearing pictures of the tree,_not in the least like it—at a total cost of sevenpence. Above the second reservoir we crossed a small ridge, and descended upon the village of Kamigata, evidently a great place for the production of a kind of dark brown glazed earthenware, that looked very handsome and strong, and was fashioned into all imaginable shapes, from cups and saucers to drain-pipes and garden monsters. From Kamigata, after tiffin, we started up a long gentle ascent, passed another reservoir, descended again, —one wouldn't mind that if it were not that of course it is only to rise yet higher a little further on, and entered upon a hilly country in which we crossed four or five ridges in succession, mostly steep ascents and descents. Half-way through this district is the village of Mitsi- ishi (“three stones”)—for the hills yield a veined marble and two kinds of soap-stone, of which many handsome articles, such as trays, boxes, models of Fujisan, present- ments of known and unknown beasts, tea services, and flower-pot stands are made. I bought a small teapot 356 . AEIGHT YEARS IN 5A PAN. and five cups, of the red soap-stone, very neatly designed, after a little chaffering, for about half a crown, and had them neatly packed up in two wooden boxes into the bargain, so that I should have been well satisfied had it not been for the parting shout of derision with which the collected villagers hailed the completion of what they evidently thought was a successful swindle, the native victorious again over the ignorant barbarian The last ascent was the stiffest, and the rain that had been falling for the last hour made the clayey road very trying. How the men got the jinrikishas up the hill I don't know, for I didn't stop to see, but strode on, down the other side of the hill through a large fir wood, passing round another big reservoir with a very high embank- ment, and out into a cultivated valley, before the vehicles Overtook me ; and then the rain set in for a steady night of it, and I halted at Uné, a post town of dingy appearance, but possessing a good honjin, where I was supplied with a very excellent Japanese supper. I found on inquiry that it was barely possible, with luck, to make Kobe within the next day; so as I was bent upon saving a mail if possible, I resolved to make a push for it, and ordered my team for six o'clock next morning, turning in before nine for the night. 22nd. Rain, still rain ; but we were off only half an hour after the time named, finding the Chikusagawa, the first of about twenty rivers to be crossed that day, just at the end of the town. The stream was narrow, but all ferries take about the same time to get across in Japan, so that was no advantage. After a short run by a road that of course humped itself on to unnecessary ŞOORNEY FROM AVAGASAK7 7"O KOBE. 357 hills, we found the Ibó-gawa, another ferry, but there was a good bridge in course of construction, which was a comfort to think about in connection with one's grand- children, and then a length of yet more horrid road, for two miles of which we all preferred the paddy fields alongside; for there was only about three inches of water covering a uniform depth of mud, while on the road was six inches of water concealing holes of unknown depth ; then another river, possessing a brand-new bridge, on which we rested awhile, as does the traveller in the desert On reaching an oasis. Then more of the paddy fields, till we left the main road, and took to a good hard by-lane leading over a small eminence, from which we sighted the castle of Himéji in the distance ; before reaching which place, however, we crossed yet another river, by a bridge that had been rendered a ghastly monument of human folly, by a pavement of Soft bricks, bedded in mud upon thin cross planking— a specimen of modern Japanese engineering. We Crossed this by climbing along the railing, and dragging the jinrikishas through the water—that is, after we had Crossed we found out that would have been the easier way; but I was getting grumpy, for the rain never ceased ; and we reached Himéji in time for tiffin, having accomplished twenty miles out of the projected fifty- eight. As we passed along the muddy streets I looked out for Some of the leather-work, a really good production of the place, not unlike morocco, of which I had once possessed a specimen, but saw none—only paper imitations that have probably superseded the better 2 A 3 358 A/GAT YEARS ZAV 9.4 PAN. class of ware; and on reaching a tea-house at the eastern end of the town, was told that the only purveyor of what I wanted lived on the west side of the castle, which is on the west side of the place altogether—so I gave that up. - Alas! by this time I was nearing the haunts of foreigners, as was evident by the impudent demeanour of the two lasses who brought me my tiffin, and who betrayed by their pranks a familiarity with the chin- chucking, paw-about young merchant princes of Kobe. I got out of the place as soon as possible, and into the rain again, crossing a deadly line of Country, of course intersected by numerous rivers. The rain changed to sleet, in furious showers that drove across the plain, and chilled me to the bone, spite of my rugs and waterproofs, my Okayama cigars, and the remains of my carefully saved bottle of whiskey ; and progress became slower and slower, till on reaching a village where there were some vehicles standing beside the road, and coolies crouching round their “hibachi” in a Shanty, I took matters into my own hands, engaged the whole available manhood of the place, in addition to my Himéji team, at their own terms, and started afresh with four men to each jinrikisha : going now so swiftly that the only question was whether the machines and the men would hold together, for we landed on the far side of each hole instead of being ingulfed in the middle, and Occasionally made a stepping-stone of a fallen leader, as he floundered in the depths of some pit- fall. Wheels, axles, and Springs held out, as it happened ; and just as the Sun had set we increased the native bulk 500RMEY FROM wagASAK’ſ Zo Koź. 359 of Akashi mud by several hundredweights that we brought into that town from the westward. A short halt and a meal—that I might not give my host in Kobe the trouble of getting me supper on arrival,—and we were again on the road. The weather had cleared, and a bitter cold wind swept the coast; but I was thinking of the coal-fire ahead of me, and So long as the men were running I was content. Through Maikö and Suma we rattled,—the coolies were the best goers I ever sat behind,-across the bleak plain to the back of Hiðgo, over the Minato-gawa bridge, over the railway bridge, over the level crossing by the Kanda Yashiki, up the hill to the cosy bunga- low beside the “number four shrine,”—and then an orderly family fireside was disturbed by the irruption of a mud-bespattered, out-at-elbows, shaggy, blue-nosed, shivering vagabond, whose identity was recognized just in time to save the trouble of producing the revolver out of the bedroom. One cry of horror at the hideous aspect consequent upon a never-too-hand- Some nose and cheek being overlaid with the remains of the four or five skins that had been partially used up on the journey, and then the instinct of human charity triumphed, and the battered remnant of what had once been a Kobe man was comforted, cosseted, chaffed, calorified, and congratulated, and finally bestowed away in a civilized chamber, to sleep himself into a renewed self-respect on the morrow. Now, granted a good time of the year, say May or October for choice, fair health and spirits, and a not too luxurious habit, no more delightful trip, I believe, 360 FZGHT YEARS ZAV 34 PAN. could be devised in a far country than that between Nagasaki and Kobe. True it is there is neither crater nor glacier to tempt the mountaineer; no savage beast or rugged desert for the adventurer to encounter; scarce even a real extortioner for the small-beer chronicler to satirize in his reminiscences. It is simply a fortnight— or better still if one has time, a month—of easy travel in a smiling land. The alternations of plain and pass, of river, coast, and inland bluff; the hundred views of the isle-dotted seas; the aspect of the country people in the various districts; the ruined strongholds and the thriving towns; the noticeable beauty and fitness of many of the works of human enterprise and art ; and the contrast afforded by misdirected ingenuity,+all combine to repay the slight exertion of the journey and the modest expenses of transport and subsistence, and the time of such a holiday as working men need for their refreshment. For those with some special training, there are the thousand quaint or venerable monuments of two religions that have held the people for Countless generations, inviting to inquiry and discrimination ; for those who observe only economical matters, there are the industries and appliances of a toiling and frugal, but contented and sharp-witted Society, from the boats and looms, to the houses and agricultural implements, that lie or move before the traveller's eye. The study of the varying shapes of jinrikisha shafts alone, from the pronounced curve of Nagasaki, through the fantastic crookedness of Yamaguchi, to the nearly straight propriety of Okayama, will, as Count Smorltork said, “surprise by ŞOURAWEY FROM AVAGASAKZ ZO KOBE. 36 I himself; ” while potteries and potato-patches, salt-pans, and even the all-pervading paddy and its irrigation system, claim much more than a passing glance from any one not sworn to devour the road and make fast time for the minimum of cost. And everywhere the traveller may find a smile of welcome, thanks for courtesy, a helping hand, and a hearty good speed. THE END. PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES- C E N T R A L aſ AP A N • * * * * * * = • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * & * * * **. ... • ** * * * * * * 3} 2.Éadori. ** Bäkić LSº s .." \) ºforge Sāvatsak’ Ourao ſº. * * a ka s a f g ; ch Kusić. : ºt 2%)", * §Iſà - ſ SººH amangºsu Ç *** * *.... • * * * * * * ** * * * * , • * * * * * . . . . . * * s_ = . . e. e.” * * * * * * * * * * •e s.s.” *** . . . ... • * º dai ‘…. 4;ºkº, “. K. o d. S us k e ºs..… ...— ... Sº Mºāgameſasamayama) 3. Mýantai(Nantasan) :* --. cause: § ºğusery: - - *...* : 20 g º Žco Jºaºzºstwa, Sawatº, Žshºro Sºzºic; C. akamoto : &ſº §Małºda, Żmatcha. SSS ... Miogie ; ...” ... • * * * * * * *...* TO-KAI -36 %. O - abowº 34 Miles equal, J. Inch, . London; Kegan. 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I f f C ! f * S. ; G’• § sº º º W ~$1. º º §§ Q º? ~ * fºrgo's NADA * ,... • * * * * * * ... •- . ** * * * . . . . . •. . . * * * * * * * * * *. * * * • * * * * *. * * * * **** - - - - -.. * • * * * * *. S () U T H E R N JAPAN - - - - - - - - Londorv, Iſegan Pazd, Trench, & Cº * about 34 Miles equall Inch, . Edwº-Weller. &th,. A LIST OF &EGAN PAUZ, TRENCH & Co.'s PUBLICATIONS. 3,83. 1, Paternoster Square, London. A LIST OF KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & Co.'s PUBLICATIONS, C O N T E N T S. - PAGE JºAGE GENERAL LITERATURE. . 2 | POETRY . tº e tº • 34 INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC WORKS OF FICTION . • 43 SERIES . tº g , 29 | BOOKS FOR THE YOUNG • 44 MILITARY WORKS. º • 31 GENERAL LITERATURE. APA/S, A. O., F.R.G.S.—The History of Japan. From the Earliest Period to the Present time. New Edition, revised. 2 vols. With Maps and Plans. Demy 8vo, 21s. each. A ZOAMSOAV, H. Z., B.A).—The Truth as it is in Jesus. Crown 8vo, 8s. 6d. The Three Sevens. Crown 8vo, 5s. 6d. 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