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L/ICTORIA éc ALBERT MUSEUM.
DEPARTMENT 0E TEXTILES.
CATALOGUE OF
ENGLISH ECCLESIASTICAL
EMBROIDERIES
OF THE XIII. TO XVI. CENTURIES.
LONDON
PUBLISHED UNDER THE AUTHORITY
OF THE BOARD OF EDUCATION
I930
Publieation No. I 17 T.
C rown Copyright Reserved.
First printed, 1907.
S eeond Edition, 191 1.
Third (Illustrated) Edition, 1916.
Fourth (Illustrated) Edition, 1950.
Architectural
’ Library
N K
9 32 O
‘V e 5
I 9 3 O
This Catalogue may be obtained direetly from the Vietoria and Albert Museum, priee Is. 6d.
(by post 1s. 8d.). It may also be obtained direetly from HM. Stationery Ofiiee at the
following addresses : Adastral House, Kingsn/ay, London, W.C'. 2 ; 120 George
Street, Edinburgh ,' York Street, Manehester ; I St. Andrew’s C reseent, Cardif;
I5 Donegall Square West, Belfast ; or through any bookseller.
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CONTENTS.
' PAGE
PREFACE .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. v
LIST OF PLATES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vii
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix
CATALOGUE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
APPENDIX .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 49
LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
BIBLIOGRAPHY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
INDEX .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 61
PREFACE.
TIIIS Catalogue has already twice been enlarged and reprinted since
it was first compiled by myself as an Assistant in the Department
of Textiles and published in I907. The number of illustrations, too,
has been steadily increased as the collection grew in importance.
Since the last edition in I916 further valuable additions have been
made, notably the line panel bearing the name of John of Thanet,
given by the National Art Collections Fund in 1921. The whole
Catalogue has now been thoroughly revised, and the Introduction
largely rewritten by Mr. P. G. Trendell, Assistant-Keeper in the
Department of Textiles. The heraldic notes for the greater part, and
the Appendix on the heraldry of the Syon Cope are due, as in the
previous editions, to Mr. A. Van de Put. The Bibliography and
the List of Photographs have been brought up to date and the Index
has been made more comprehensive.
Several of the embroideries mentioned in the introduction are on
loan to the Exhibition of English Mediaeval Art now being held in
this Museum and are described in the Exhibition Catalogue. Amongst
them are some fragments of vestments from Worcester (Exhibition
Catalogue, No. 29), a buskin of Archbishop Hubert Walter from
Canterbury (28), the Franks panel from the British Museum (I08),
the copes belonging to Lieut.-Colonel W. E. Butler-Bowdon (I42)
and the Church at Steeple Aston (3o5—6), the Westminster vestments
now owned by the Dowager Lady Arundell of W/ardour (658) and
Stonyhurst College (755), and the funeral palls of the Merchant-
Taylors’ (745), the Saddlers’ (7 5o) and the Brewers’ (774) Companies,
as well as those from Dunstable (757) and Sudbury (615), and the
herse-cloth from Cambridge University (7 5 6).
ERIC MACLAGAN .
A1/gzm‘, I 9 3 o.
vii
Frantirpiece (5
PLATE
I
II
III
IV
V
VI
VII
VIII
IX
X
XI
XIII
XIV
XV
XVI
XIX
(1).
(Z)-
(Z)-
(5)-
(5)-
(5)-
(5)-
(5)-
(5)-
(5)-
(4)-
XII (Io).
(6)-
(7)-
(8).
(8)-
XVH(n)
IIIJIII (12).
(9)-
LIST OF PLATES.
Panel. About I goo. Gift of the National Art~
Collections Fund. T. 337-1921.
Fragments of Vestment from Worcester Cathedral.
Middle 13th century. 1380-1901.
Back of Chasuble. Second half 15th century.
675-1864.
Front of Chasuble.
673-1864.
The Syon Cope. Late Ijth century. 83-1864.
Detail of the Syon Cope. Late I 3th century.
Second half 13th century.
83-1864.
Detail of the Syon Cope. Late 15th century.
83-1864.
Detail of the Syon Cope. Late 13th century.
83-1864.
Two details of the Syon Cope. Late I§th century.
83-1864.
Two details of the Syon Cope. Late 13th century.
83-1864.
Morse of the Syon Cope. Late 15th century.
85-1864.
Part of Orphrey. About 1300. T. 56-1913.
Front of a Burse. About 1300. Bequest of
Mr.‘R. E. Pannett. T. 544-I920.
Part of Orphrey. About 1500. 827-1905.
Two Parts of Orphrey. Early 14th century. 8 37
and 838-1902. .
The Jesse Cope. Early I4th century. 175-1889.
Detail of the Jesse Cope. Early I4th century.
175-1889.
Back of Chasuble. Early 14th century. T. 72-1922.
Front of Chasuble. Early I4th century. T. 72-1922.
Velvet Band. Early 14th century. Gift of
Mr. Ralph Oakden. 8218-186;.
viii
PLATE
XX
XXI (11).
(60).
XXII (16).
XXIII (I7).
XXIV (18).
XXV (23).
XXVI (24).
XXVII (19,
25).
XXVIII (2 5
XXIX (50)..
XXX (29).
XXXI (28).
XXXII (5 z).
XXXIII (27).
XXXIV (37).
XXXV (3 7).
XXXVI (5 6).
XXXVII (3 5).
XXXVIII (41).
XXXIX (47).
XL (50-68).
Detail of Velvet Band. Early 14th century. Gift
of Mr. Ralph Oakden. 8218-186;.
Heraldic Stole.
Monsieur G. Saville Seligman.
Burse from Abbey Dore.
T. 345-1921.
Late 14th century.
831-1901.
Part of Orphrey. Second half 14th century.
176-1889.
Panels from Orphreys. Second half 14th century.
28-1892.
Back of Chasuble.
Part of Orphrey.
T. 226-1926.
Details of Orphrey of Chasuble.
15th century. 402-1907.
Parts of Orphreys of two Chasubles.
Early 15th century. 935-1901.
First half Ijth century.
Second quarter
Late 14th
and middle 15th century. 156013-1904 and
458-1905.
Orphreys of Chasuble. Middle 15th century.
458 and A—19o5.
Dalmatic. Latter part 15th century. T. 49—
1924.
Cope. Late 15th century. 1376-1901.
Detail of Altar Frontal. Late 15th century. 1618-
1888.
Back of Chasuble. The embroidery, 1 5th century ; i
the damask weaving, Chinese 17—18th century.
Gift of Mrs. Gordon—Canning. T. 28-1922.
Cope. About 1500. 230-1879.
Back of Chasuble. Early 16th century. Gift of
Major Harlowe Turner. 240-1908.
Detail of Chasuble. Early 16th century. Gift of
Major Harlowe Turner. 240-1908.
Back of Chasuble. Early 16th century. 696-1902.
Back of Chasuble. Early 16th century. 665-1896.
Back of Requiem Chasuble. First half 16th century.
697-1902.
Details of Altar Frontal. Middle 16th century.
35-1888.
The Abbey Dore Vestments and Altar Furniture.
822 to 839-1901.
Early 14th century. Gift of
INTRODUCTION.
HE art of embroidery is One for which England has in the past
been distinguished at more periods than one, and we may well
believe that Anglo-Saxon needlework did not fall in merit behind the
contemporary illuminations and miniatures. But only one example,
dating from before the Norman Conquest, has been preserved——the
beautiful “ stole and maniple of St. Cuthbert ” at Durham Cathedral,
made by order of Queen Aelfilaeda for F ridestan, Bishop of Winchester,
soon after the year 905.1 Between this date and the middle of the
I§tl‘1 century scarcely any existing work can be pointed out, if we
except the so-called “ Bayeux Tapestry ” and the vestments
traditionally assigned to St. Thomas of Canterbury at Sens and
elsewhere; yet there is ample documentary evidence to prove the
abundance and excellence of English embroidery during that period
and the high esteem in which it was held abroad, especially at Rome,
where the Papal inventories of a slightly later date have many references
to opus aag/ieanu/a. In the library of Worcester Cathedral are fragments
of vestments from the tombs of the bishops, dating, some from the
nth, others from the I 3th century2; some portions of the latter have
been acquired by the Museum (N O. 1). Other fragments, of a slightly
earlier date, are preserved in Canterbury Cathedral~°’; but until the
latter part of the 15th century the remains are few and imperfect.
The dawn of the great period of English embroidery can be seen
in the beautiful but sadly mutilated blue chasuble (No. 2). A few
years later comes the famous Syon Cope (No. 5), which ranks among
1 J. Raine, S2‘. Cuthbert, pls. I to III; Be/rlingfen Maga:gir/e, XXIII, pls. facing
pp. 3 and I0, I91; ; De Farcy, La Broderie, pl. 260, I, second supplement (cp. p. I71).
Coloured photographs in Victoria and Albert Museum, Nos. 1624, 1625-1888.
2 Canon H. B. Southwell, A Dererzjbtiee Amount of .r0//re Fragment; of Medieval
Embroidery fauna’ in Worcester Cathedral, pls. II, III, VI to VIII, and XVI. Coloured
photographs in Victoria and Albert Museum, Nos. I09, I21, I24, I26, 205-1900.
3 Sir W. St. John Hope, 011 the T omb of an Arebbzlr/yap reeem‘/y opened in 2‘/ye Caz‘//edral
Cbureb of Canterbury (Veturia Monumenta, VII, Part I), pls. I to V.
X
the most magnificent vestments of any age or nationality. This
may be taken as a typical example of the finest style of ojaus anglieanum,
of which the chief field of display was apparently found on these
great embroidered copes. The fragments of another, a “ Jesse ”
cope, slightly later in date, but singularly graceful in design, are
exhibited beside it (No. 8), and about twenty more, complete or
mutilated, are to be found in England, elsewhere in Europe, or
in America.
The copes can be classified according to the general arrangement
of the design into four main groups.
I. Those with quatrefoils :———
England.—London (the Syon cope)1.
France.—St. Bertrand-de-Comminges (Haute-Garonne)2.
Spain.—Madrid (the Daroca cope).3
Italy.—Anagni 4 (incomplete), Rome.5
II. Those in eoneentrie zones under Gothie areading :—
England._—Lieut.—Colonel W. E. Butler-Bowdon 6
(incomplete).
France.-—St. Bertrand-de-Comminges (Haute-Garonne).
Spain.--—Toledo,8 Vich9 (incomplete).
1 Plate IV. De Farcy, La Broderie, pl. 19 (cp. p. 124).
2 ]bid., pl. 51, 2 (cp. p. 12 5). The treatment of the quatrefoils, formed by circles
and ovals linked together, is varied and amounts to a confusion of the circular
design.
3 Ibid., pl. 21 and 22 (cp. p. 124). Coloured photograph in Victoria and Albert
Museum, No. 40-1884.
4 Ibid., pl. 36, I (cp. p. 126). Now a dalmatic cut from two copes.
5 In the Vatican Library, acquired by Pius X, formerly in a monastery in Rome ;
Pontifieal Museums and Galleries, V, Guide to the Pieture Galleries (1925), p. 50;
Burlington Magazine, XXXIX, plates opposite pp. 122 and 127, 1921. It will be
published by Professor C. R. Morey in the Rendieonti della Pontzfieia Aeeademia
Romana di Areheologia.
6 De Farcy, La Broderie, pl. 151 (cp. p. 141, first supplement).
7 Ibid., pl. 31, 5 (cp. pp. 125 and 126). This cope, with (2), was the gift of Pope
Clement V in 1509. .
8 Ibid., pl. 260, 2 and 5 (cp. p. 171, second supplement) ; Lasjoyas de la Exposition
Eurojsea. Madrid, 1892. II, pls. 145 and 146. Said to have belonged to Cardinal
Gil de Albornoz (d. 1567). Coloured photograph in Victoria and Albert Museum,
No. 1161-1893.
9 De_Farcy, La Broderie, pl. 155 (cp. p. 141, first supplement). This has been
mutilated and the fragments used to make two dalmatics and a chalice veil.
xi.
II. Those in eonoentrie genes under Gothie areading.--(eontinued.)
Italy.--—Bologna,1 Pienza,'~’ Rome.3
America.-—-New York4 (incomplete).
III. Those with eonzybartnzents fornzea’ h_)/ oine traeery :——-
England.—-London (the Jesse cope) 5 (incomplete), Steeple
Aston6 (incomplete).
France.---Lyons7 (incomplete).
Spain.-—-Barcelona (Plandiura collection, formerly at
Lerida)8 (incomplete).
Austria.—-Salzburg9 (incomplete).
IV. Those with eireles :-—
France.-—St. Maximin (Var).1°
Italy.—Ascoli,11 Anagni 12 (incomplete).
Sweden.-—Upsala.13
These last are probably the earliest in date, but their English
origin is contested by some authorities.
1 ]hid., pl. 27 (cp. p. 125).
2 ]hid., pl. 45 (cp. p. 127). Gift of Pope Pius II (I458—I464).
3 One known as the cope of St. Sylvester at St. John Lateran. Reproduced :
Ihial, pls. 43 and 44 (cp. p. 127). A record of a similar cope, once in-Rome but
the location now unknown, exists in a water-colour drawing in the Meyer Museum
at Bebington, near Birkenhead. Reproduced : Ihid., pl. opposite p. 52 (cp. p. I17).
4 Bulletin of Metropolitan Museum of Art, New Y ark, XXII, figs. I, 3 and 4, I927 ;
Burlington Magazine, LI, plates opposite pp. 286 and 291, I927. Mutilated, now
forming a chasuble.
5 Plate XV. De Farcy, La Broderie, pl. 42 (cp. p. 127). Now in the Victoria
and Albert Museum, NO. 175-1889, formerly at Brockhampton, near Havant.
6 Ihid. (from drawing showing suggested restoration), pl. I50 (cp. p. I41, first
supplement). Mutilated, now forming an altar frontal and dorsal.
7 Ihia’., pl. 41 (cp. p. 127). It has been suggested that this panel formed, originally,
the missing central band of the Salzburg cope (9), but it scarcely seems probable.
8 Ihz'd., pl. I94, I (p. I 5 3, second supplement). Gaseta de les Arts. Second series I,
No. 2, pl. on p. I; (cp. p. 12). Known as the chasuble of St. Vincent.
9 De Farcy, La Broderie, pl. I95 (p. I53, second supplement); Zeitsehrzfi‘ fur
Christliehe Kunst, XXII, I4 and I5, 1909 ; Needle and Thread, frontispiece, and
figs. 18 and I9. I914. Two side portions only.
1° De Farcy, La Broderie, pl. opposite p. 40 (cp. p. 116).
11 Ihia'., pl. 147 (cp. p. 140 first supplement ; pl. I86, I (cp. p. I51, second supple-
ment). Gift of Pope Nicholas IV in I288. Coloured photograph in Victoria and
Albert Museum, No. D. 1734-1904.
1" ]hid., pl. 50, I (cp. p. 125). Now cut into a chasuble.
13 Branting—Lindblom, M edeltida Vdenader ooh Broderier 2' S2/erige, II, pl. I I I and
pp. 125-128. 1929.
xii
Besides these copes, examples of the same great period (about
1250-1550) may be studied in orphreys and fragments of various
kinds, such as the Catworth cushions (No. 7), the velvet band with
scenes from the life of the Virgin (No. 9), and other specimens in
this Museum, and the fine panels in the British Museum from the
Franks1 and Valencia de Don Juan bequests. In all this work we
find not only great beauty of design and colour, but also an extreme
technical perfection ; the stitches, in a very fine split stitch and couched
work, are small and even, the faces worked in spiral lines, and the
drapery with delicate gradations of tint.
If we consider the next period as reaching from about 1550 to
1450 we find a great decline both in the quantity of the needlework
preserved and in its quality. This change of style, which may be
generally traced in English art, was probably due to the ravages of
“ Black Death ” in the middle of the 14th century. Embroidery on
vestments is now for the most part confined to the orphreys, which
are generally occupied by scenes or figures of saints, often in pairs,
under foliated canopies with twisted columns; the colours are har-
monious and bright, but the execution grows comparatively coarse,
the larger split and satin stitches in the faces make expression difficult,
and the drapery is apt to become careless and mechanical. An example
of this style at its best, producing a very fine effect, may be seen in
the back of a chasuble (No. 18). Compare also the panels (No. 17)
and a set of orphreys of a somewhat later type (No. 25).
In the last period, reaching from the middle of the 1 5th century
to the Reformation, the orphreys show a still further degradation
in style. The figures are worked in long and short and brick stitches
and laid and 'couched work is introduced to save time, the archi-
tectural canopies are flat and poor in design, and the colours lacking
in variety. The subjects are curiously monotonous in treatment.
The figure of Christ on the Cross appears on the great majority of
chasubles treated in an unvarying convention, and other orpheys are
almost always filled with alternate prophets and apostles——probably
1 Lady M. Alford, Needlework as Art, pl. opposite p. 575 ; De Farcy, La Broderie,
pl. 198, 2, second supplement (cp. p. 155) ; British Museum, Guide to the Mediawa
Room (1924), fig. I51, p. 270 ; Symonds-Preece, Needlework Through the Ages,
pl. XXX (coloured). The inscription MCCCXC ROMA is a later addition.
xiii
made separately, as the same figure sometimes occurs twice on one
vestment No. 54). But, though the orphreys are lacking in
interest, a new fashion of decorating vestments appears at this date
for the first time, and forms a beautiful and characteristic feature of
English embroidery. The ground, generally of velvet, is powdered
with detached emblems, most often floral devices of various forms,
and with figures of seraphim, separately embroidered on linen and
afterwards applied. This treatment produces a peculiarly fine effect on
copes, in which the centre of the back is very often occupied by a
small group of the Assumption of the Virgin, round which seraphim,
double-headed eagles, fleurs~de-lys, Tudor roses, pomegranates and
floral devices are arranged in a radiating pattern which follows
the upright lines of the cope when in use.1 Sometimes the decorations
have reference to a particular person or purpose, as in the interesting
chasuble with the rehus of Abbot Thornton (No. 41), and perhaps
the dalmatic with two golden bells on the back (No. go). Although
such work is, perhaps, too coarse to bear a close inspection, the
general decorative effect is often magnificent enough, and the style
seems to have been a popular one. In spite of the great numbers
that have been destroyed or cut up for other purposes, vestments of
this type are very common in England and even in Continental
museums, and they may constantly be recognised in the detailed
descriptions of old church inventories.
It would seem that the great revival in the art of embroidery,
which produced such splendid results in secular work towards the
end of the 16th century, had begun early enough to affect the last
ecclesiastical needlework done before the Reformation. Some work
was undoubtedly done in Flanders expressly for English use, e.g.,
the orphrey (2o62—’oo) with arms of William, first Lord Sandys of
the Vyne (d. I542).
Of the two existing vestments which are said to have once been
the property of Westminster Abbey, one, the chasuble belonging to
the Dowager Lady Arundell of Wardour, has embroidered orphreys
of Flemish work, though some of the scattered badges (the portcullis
1 “ In I471 Richard Rawlyn left ‘ to the church of Kyslyngbury my grene vesty-
ment wrought with selver, and with a blewe crosse and flowres of gold.’ ” Archaeo-
logical journal, LXX, second series, vol. XX, p. 235 (I 91;).
my
and Tudor roses) may possibly be English. The other vestment, a
cope now preserved at Stonyhurst College,1 with a ground of velvet
on cloth of gold, with similar badges, which was certainly woven in
Italy expressly for England, has orphreys, though repaired, of English
work of the time of Henry VII.
On the palls of the City Companies,2 such as the Saddlers’, the
Brewers’, the Fishmongers’, the Vintners’, the Parish Clerks’, and the
two in the possession of the Merchant Taylors’ Company, as well
as the palls at Dunstable3 and Sudbury,4 the central panel is in almost
every case a magnificent piece of Italian velvet on cloth of gold.
The embroidery applied to the sides and ends, however, may not
unreasonably be taken as English work, until the contrary can be
proved, especially since these applied embroidered ornaments
correspond with those on the herse cloths at Cambridge5 and Oxford6
made for the obit of Henry VII. Such embroideries might well have
been made for the Livery Companies of the City7 by the Broderers’
Company of London, which, though it did not receive its charter
until 1561, was in existence as early as the reign of Edward III.8
There seems also no reason to doubt that the handsome embroidered
figures connected with Ralph Nevill, fourth earl of Westmorland,
and dating from about 15 50 (Nos. 47 and 48) are of native workman-
ship, and these, with the palls mentioned, may be taken to represent
the final phase of English ecclesiastical embroidery.
The chief field for the use of ornamental needlework in the Middle
Ages lay in the Mass-vestments worn by the priest, particularly the
chasuble, but also to a lesser degree the stole and maniple, and the
apparels of the alb and amice; in the dalmatic and tunicle worn by
deacon and sub-deacon, in the copes used in processions and other
1 Lady Alford, Needlework as Art, pl. opposite p. 578.
2 Victoria and Albert Museum, Works of Art belonging to the Livery Companies of the
City of London, pls. LXXI to LXXVIII (1927).
3 The Embroideress, I, pl. facing p. 12 3.
4 A. F. Kendrick, English Embroidery, pl. XXXI.
5 Illustrated Catalogue of the Loan Exhibition of English Deeoratiue Art at Lansdowne
House, pl. IV.
6 T. G. Jackson, The Ghureh of St. Mary the Virgin, Oxford, pl. XXII.
7 Symonds-Preece, Needlework Through the Ages, p. 256 ; Jourdain, The History
of English S eeular Embroidery, p. 56.
8 Hazlitt, The Livery Companies of the City of London, p. 591.
XV
services, and in burses, chalice-veils and various smaller objects.
The ehasuhle, originally made up of a semi-circle of material and
forming a bell shape, was gradually cut away to the shoulders, for
convenience in wear, till it assumed its present scanty shape.1 The
cope is a semi-circular mantle fastened by a rnorse or clasp and adorned
with a hooa7 at the back. Both chasuble and cope are decorated with
orphreys, generally bands of embroidery fastened to the ground of the
vestment. In England the normal form of the back orphrey of the
chasuble was a cross, but the early \P shape of the 13th and I4th
centuries was superseded by the Latin cross in the I5th century,
especially in England. The dalrnatie and tuniele were short square-
cut vestments open at the sides, with large sleeves, and on them and
on the front and back were embroidered panels (aybybarels). The
tunicle was the smaller of the two and less decorated. Frontals were
often hung not only in front of the altar but above and behind it as
well, as with the interesting pair of frontals at Chipping Campden.2
It seems to have been a common practice in the later Middle Ages to
cut up copes and use them for frontals, chasubles and palls No. 28).
Scraps of orphreys and fragments generally were also made up into
stoles, maniples, burses, and other minor articles of liturgical use.
At the Reformation many ecclesiastical embroideries were taken
abroad, others were either burnt to reclaim the gold used in the thread
1 Scarcely any English chasubles are in their original form. Originally they
were both longer and wider, and were like the large vestments familiar in contem-
porary representations, although none in the Museum here were quite as large
as the somewhat earlier form of chasuble which had the ‘F-shaped cross, 'and of
which the Museum unfortunately does not at present possess an English example.
In their present form, they have been more or less re-shaped. In most cases the
lowest panels of the orphreys and many of the ornaments are obviously mutilated.
This was done in the post-Reformation period. Some English vestments were
actually taken to the Continent ; others were used in this country by mission priests
trained abroad. Most of these have been cut away at the sides so as to assimilate
their form to one or other of the Continental models used in Renaissance times.
The earlier vestments were of soft material and had narrow shaped orphreys or
none at all. As time went on, thicker materials were used and heavier embroidery
For purposes of convenience this involved some reduction in width. The Latin
cross became very common in England in the Ijth century, though it did not
wholly supersede the ‘I’ cross. In Italy and the South of Europe the chasuble
usually was differently made, and had neither the ‘P’ cross nor Latin cross on the
back, but a muéh lower neck and a kind of transverse band in front.
" Antrobus-Preece, Needlework Through the Ages, pl. XXXVI ; Burlington Fine
Arts Club, Catalogue of Exhibition of English Enzhroideries, I905, pp. 65, 66.
xvi
or mutilated. Vestments passed into private possession, and they
were ruthlessly cut up for coverlets, curtains, cushions, and other
articles of secular use. A number of copes maltreated in this way
can still be seen at Hardwick Hall; they were part of the treasure
of Lilleshall Priory, which was purchased by Elizabeth, Countess
of Shrewsbury (Bess of Hardwick).1
1 Symonds-Preece, Needlework Through the Ages, p. 2 55.
I7
C A T A L O G U E
ARRANGED IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER.
1. FRAGMENTS OF A SILK VESTMENT embroidered with gilt thread
and silk, in stem, satin and brick stitch, found in the tomb of Bishop
Walter de Cantelupe (1256-1266), in Worcester Cathedral, in
December 1861. The design consists of seated figures of kings,
crowned and bearing sceptres, among scrolling foliage (probably
forming part of a Tree of Jesse); one of the figures to the left, of
which a portion only remains, is enclosed within a vesica-shaped
compartment. There are some fragments of another pattern repre-
senting an animal and foliage, and two strips of woven gold braid.
Probably of the same date as the bishop in whose stone coffin they
were found. Middle of I 5th eentug/. Plate I.
Largest piece, L. 9% in., W. 7-} in. 138o—19o1. Neg. No. 62170.
Compare photograph of another portion of the same vestment still preserved at
Worcester Cathedral, Neg. No. 21118, and painted photograph of the same,
121-1900. See also photographs of similar fragments of early embroideries at
Worcester Cathedral (Burlington Fine Arts Club, Catalogue of Exhibition of English
Enzbroideries, 1905, pl. XIX, 2), Neg. Nos. 21117, 21120, 21121, 21122, 2112;,
21124, and painted photographs, 126, 121 and 2o5—19oo. These fragments are
perhaps part of a buskin: see water-colour drawing T. 189-1914. Other frag-
ments are in the British Museum. De Farcy, La Broderie, pl. 185, 2 (cp. p. 149,
second supplement). (See p. ix above.)
2. CHASUBLE of blue satin, embroidered with gilt thread and
coloured silks in split stitch and couched work. On the back is a
broad orphrey filled with barbed quatrefoils, which enclose the
following subjects : Christ on the Cross, with the Virgin and St. John :
the Virgin and Child enthroned: St. Peter with key and book, and
St. Paul with sword and book, side by side : the stoning of St. Stephen.
The spaces between the quatrefoils are embroidered with conven-
tional branch-work, and the rest of the chasuble is covered with
bold leafy scrolls, enclosing lions and griflins; down the middle of
the front is a lace band in silver-gilt thread and blue silk of later date.
The shape is much mutilated, and the white silk used for embroidering
B
18
the faces and hands and the body of Christ has in many places worn
away. This chasuble is described in the Gentleman’s Magazine for
1786 (vol. lvi, pp. 298, 473, 584) ; a stole and maniple belonging to
it (now lost) were then still preserved with it, and the heraldic shields
on them imply a connection with Margaret de Clare, wife of Edmund
Plantagenet, earl of Cornwall, and suggest a date before her divorce
in 1294. Seeond half of 13th eentu/y. Plates H and HI.
L. 3 ft. 9% in., W. 2 ft. 2 in. 675-1864. Neg. Nos. 2228;, 50377, 50446, 50447.
De Farcy, La Broderie, pl. 18, and in colour in the Burlington Fine Arts Club,
Catalogue of Exhibition of English Embroideries, 1905, pl. II. A painted drawing in
the Museum, T. 185—1914, illustrates the suggestion of Professor W. R. Lethaby
that this vestment was originally a cope.
3. COPE, known as the S yon Cope, of linen in two and sometimes
three thicknesses, embroidered all over with gilt and silver thread
and coloured silks. The body of the cope is covered with interlacing
barbed quatrefoils outlined in gold ; the ground of these is
embroidered with (faded) red silk, and the spaces between them with
green silk, in couched work, so as to produce a chevron pattern on
the surface. These quatrefoils are filled with scenes from the life of
Christ and the Virgin and figures of St. Michael and the Apostles ;
the intervening spaces are occupied by figures of seraphim, most of
them six-winged and standing upon wheels. The subjects are as
follows, taken from left to right. In the upper row : St. Philip with
three loaves and book: Christ appearing to St. Mary Magdalene in
the garden : the Burial of the Virgin, her body carried by the Apostles
and attacked by the Jews, whose hands are fixed to the bier, and her
soul borne by angels to heaven and dropping the girdle for
St. Thomas : the Coronation of the Virgin, enthroned beside Christ,
who is blessing her: the Death of the Virgin, the Apostles sur-
rounding her and angels appearing from heaven: the Incredulity
of St. Thomas, who thrusts his hand into the wound of Christ:
St. Simon with short knotted club and book. In the second row:
St. Bartholomew with knife and book : St. Peter with keys and book :
Christ on the Cross, His body worked entirely in silver thread, with
the Virgin and St. John : St. Paul with sword and book : St. Thomas
with lance and book. In the third row: St. Andrew with saltire
I9
cross and book : St. Michael trampling on the dragon and thrusting
a spear into its mouth : St. James the Greater with staff and scrip and
book. Portions of four other Apostles with angels and lettering may
be traced among the scraps with which the mutilated circumference
of the cope has been patched: at the upper edge, which has also
been slightly mutilated, are two kneeling clerics, both holding scrolls
inscribed DAVN PERS DE, with other lettering not at present decipher-
able. The figures are so placed as to be upright when the cope was
worn, the centre of the back being occupied by the Coronation, the
Crucifixion, and St. Michael. The faces and drapery are worked
in very fine split stitch with silk, the black and white parts of which
have in some cases worn away. The broad orphrey, morse, and
narrow semicircular edging (the latter apparently made out of a
stole and maniple, see Proeeedings of the Soeiety of Antiquaries, xvii, 272)
seem to have been added at a later date; they are decorated with
heraldic shields and emblems embroidered in cross stitch and long-'
armed cross stitch, and couched work. On the orphrey are ten
large lozenges, set alternately upon green and (faded) red grounds,
arranged in groups of fives on each side of a central group of four‘
large roundels on a green ground. These read as follows from left
to right :-
LOZENGES .
i. Ermine on a eross gules fire lions statant guardant or, Everard
ii. I/air or and gules and a bordure azure eharged with (16) horse-
shoes argent, William Ferrers, fifth earl of Derby.
iii. Gules the Agnus Dei argent with banner or between two stars and
a ereseent or. Badge of the Knights Templars
iv. Same as ii. W/illiam Ferrers, fifth earl of Derby.
v. Same as i.
ROUNDELS.
vi. Cheeky or and azure and a eheoron ermine, Newburgh, earl of
Warwick.
vii. Quarterly, 1 and 4, gu/es a triple-towered eastle or ; 2 and 3,
argent a lion rampant azure, for Castile-Leon.
20
viii. Same as ii. William Ferrers, fifth earl of Derby;
ix. Azure three open horse-breys in pale or, on a ehief ermine a demy-
lion issuant gules, Geneville.
LOZENGES .
x. Cheeky or and azure, on a bend gules three lions rampant or, for
John de Clifford.
xi. Quarterly argent and gules a frette or, over all a bend sable, Le
Despenser.
xii. Same as iii, but the Agnus Dei or, the banner argent.
xiii. Same as xi. Le Despenser.
xiv. Same as x. John de Clifford.
Below the two central roundels are four loops for fastening on a
hood; the original hood, which was probably small in size and
triangular in shape, has disappeared. On the opposite edge of the
orphrey, to the left, are three loops of gold cord for attaching the
morse, which is blazoned with ten small lozenges on a ground checky
azure and or :—
xv. Gules within an eight-pointed star argent voided azure, a lozenge
eentre piereed or, between four eross erosslets or,
xvi. Gules an eagle displayed or, Lymesy or Lyndsey.
xvii. Same as vii. Castile-Leon.
Xviii. [Covered. Read by Dr. Rock as Gules a fesse argent between
three eoeered eups or, for Le Botiler, but xxi.]
xix. Same as vii. Castile-Leon.
xx. Same as ii. William Ferrers, fifth earl of Derby.
xxi. Gules a fesse argent between two eagles displayed or (2 dimidiated).
Same as xi. Le Despenser.
xxiii. Same as xvi. Lymesy or Lyndsey.
xxiv. Same as ix. Geneville.
On the narrow edging are small lozenges, set alternately upon green
and red grounds, which read from left to right :-
1 . I/air a fesse gules fretty (? diapered) azure, Marmion.
2. Or two bars azure and an orle of (9) martlets gules, Paynel.
21
\| c,\\/-_pxn
IO.
11.
12.
15.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
2;.
24.
25.
26.
27.
. Same as
. Same as vii.
. Same as vi.
. Same as xi.
William Ferrers, fifth earl of Derby.
Castile-Leon.
. Azure a eross or, Shelton.
. Azure a lion rampant or and a bordure of Ros: gules eharged
with (8) water-bougets argent.
Newburgh, earl of Warwick.
Le Despenser.
. Azure a bend between six martlets or, Ernauf or Robert de
Mounteney, of Essex.
Gules erusilly or and a saltire uair, Henry or Richard
Champernoun.
Same as ix. Geneville.
Gules three lions ]>assant guardant in pale or, England.
Cheeky argent and azure, on a bend gules, three garbs (? esealloybs) or,
Or on a jesse between six fleurs-de-lys gules three fleurs-de-lys of the
field, for Sir John Deyvill.
Gules a lion rampant argent and a bordure azure eharged with eight
roses or, for Patrick, fourth earl of Dunbar.
Cheeky or and gules, on a bend azure fire horse-shoes argent, for
Sir William Botreaux.
Same as 1. Marmion.
Same as 2. Paynel.
Same as 3. William Ferrers, fifth earl of Derby.
Same as 10. Henry or Richard Champernoun.
Same as x. John de Clifford.
Same as 8. Le Despenser.
Azure a bend or between six eseallops (or leopard’s head jessant
de Same as 6.
Azure four pallets argent on a bend gules three eseallops (? eagles
displayed) or, for Grandison.
Gules a lion rampant or, FitzAlan.
I/air a ehiefeheeky or and gules, Fleming, baron Slane.
2.2
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
55-
34-
35~
56.
37-
58.
39'
4o.
41.
42.
45-
44-
45-
Same as I I. Geneville.
Per fesse azure and or, a eross moline eounterehanged, for
Columbers.
Argent a saltire semy of roses or, between four martlets gules.
Azure five fusils in fesse or, Percy.
Same as 1. Marmion.
Same as vi. Newburgh, earl of Warwick.
Gules erusilly and three lueies hauriant, for Lucy.
Or four pallets azure and a fesse gules eharged with three mullets (6)
argent piereed azure, for Clanvowe.
Per fesse ermine and gules fretted or, Ribbesford (P reversed).
Same as 9. Mounteney.
Or on a eross gules five eseallops argent, Bygod.
Barry of six azure and or an eseuteheon ermine ; on a thief azure
between two g yrons two pallets or, Roger, baron Mortimer
of Chirk.
Same as 6.
Per fesse argent three roses gules, and azure three fleurs-de-_lys or ,'
over all a fesse gules diapered with lozenges argent.
Gules erusilly or and a fesse eheeky argent and azure, Boteler.
Same as 34. Lucy.
Ermine on a ehevron gules three eseallops or, for Grove.
Gyronny of twelve or and azure, Bassingbourne.
In the broad orphrey the corners of the squares which contain the
lozenges are filled with swans, peacocks, and stars.1
The cope derives its name from the convent of Syon, at Isleworth,
near London, founded in 1414—15 by Henry V for the Bridgettine
nuns, into whose hands it came, probably soon after their establish—
II1€I1t .
When the nuns left England, in the early days of Queen
Elizabeth, they carried the cope with them on their wanderings through
Flanders, France, and Portugal to Lisbon, whence they returned with
1 See also pp. 49 and 50 for a further note on the heraldry of the Syon Cope.
25
it to England in 1850. After passing through the hands of the 16th-
earl of Shrewsbury, and Dr. Rock, it was acquired by the Museum
from the Right Rev. James Brown, in 1864. Late 13th eentuiy.
Plates IV to X.
L. 9 ft. 7 in., W. 4 ft. 8 in. 85-1864. Neg. Nos. 9004,- 15406, 21882, 24212,
27163, 27164, 57515, 57911, 57912, 62201 to 62206.
De Farcy, La Broderie, pl. 19. Compare the heraldic stole No. 11 below.
Another stole and a maniple of heraldic work similar to the border were
exhibited at the Burlington Fine Arts Club in 1905 (Catalogue of Exhibition of
English Embroideries, 1905, pl. VII, 2, 3). See also Proeeedings of the Soeiety of An-
tiquaries, xvii, 272. Compare also the heraldic maniple and amice- and alb-apparels
on a 14th century monument in the transept of Beverley Minster : illustrated in
Ch. Hiatt, Beverley Minster (1904), p. 107, and in Gough, Sepulehral Monuments
(1796), Vol. II, pl. cxiv, p. 512.
_4. NINE PANELS, now arranged so as to form the cross-shaped
orphrey of a chasuble, embroidered on linen with coloured silks in
split stitch with a patterned background in couched work of gilt thread.
The centre panel represents the Crucifixion, with the Virgin and
St. John at the foot of the cross. To the right and left are three-
quarter length figures of St. Stephen with stones in his hand and
St. Laurence with a gridiron. The upright limb of the cross is formed
by a double band representing six figures standing under slender
Gothic canopies. Three have crowns and sceptres; they are the
ancestors of Christ, of the Royal House of Judah. The other three
are nimbed and hold books. These are either Apostles (as witnesses
of Christ) or Old Testament prophets, who are ‘sometimes represented
nimbed as prefiguring the Apostles and forestalling the advent of
the Messiah. About 1300. Plate XI.
56. L. 8% in., W. 11%; in. 56D. 7% in., \V. 2% in. T. 56 to 56H.-1913.
56A. L. 23 in., W. 2-} in. 56E. L. 9% in., W. 3% in.
5613. L. 22% in., W. 5 in. 561-‘. L. 9% in., W. 5 in.
561:. L. 7% in., W. 5 in. 56G. L. 6% in., W. 3%; in.
56H. L. 6;1~in., W. 3% in. Neg. Nos. 37048, 47552.
Formerly in the possession of the late G. E. Street, R.A. See Burlington lWagazine5
Vol. XXIII, pp. 291—5, an article by Mrs. Archibald Christie, wherein it is suggested
that the figures of St. Laurence and St. Stephen originally formed part of
the radiating design of a cope and that the six figures of kings and prophets may
.have been worked for a stole. M. de Farcy suggests that the central panel may have
formed part of a burse, p. 155, second supplement, see pl. 196.
5. PANEL of purple silk, embroidered with gilt and silver thread
and coloured silks in split stitch and couched work and small
14
pearls. In the centre, beneath a Gothic arch, is a figure of Christ,
seated upon a golden throne. His left hand rests on an orb, inscribed
with the names of the continents, EVROPA, AFFCA and ASIA, and His
right hand is raised in the attitude of benediction. He wears a red
tunic with bands of purple embroidered with gold. The bands at
the neck and lower part of the tunic are ornamented with lions
rampant and eagles displayed ; that round the waist has scrolls between
chevrons, and the bands at the wrists are ornamented with dragons.
The long golden mantle, falling to the feet, has a border with designs
of lions passant and dragons. The background is semé with lions
rampant in gold. The nimbus is embroidered to represent jewels,
and the cross on the nimbus is covered with pearls. In the spandrels
are represented the sun and moon, with dragons above and lions
below, and on the entablature is the inscription “ IOHANNIS DE
THANETO ” in Lombardic letters. There is a narrow band of red
quatrefoils outlined with gold on a green ground at the bottom of
the panel. At the top is the Annunciation, the angel Gabriel standing
beneath a Gothic arch on the left, and the Blessed Virgin, with the
Holy Dove hovering above her, within a similar arch on the right.
The intervening space has a sloping arcade, the arches being alternately
red and green. Perhaps the central panel of a series of figures beneath
an arcade, forming a dorsal for an altar. About 1500. Frontispieee.
3 ft. 5% in. by 16% in. T. 337-I921. Neg. No. 50834.
Gift of the National Art-Collections Fund. Formerly the property of St. Dominic’s
Priory, Haverstock Hill, London. Burlington Fine Arts Club, Catalogue of English
Embroidery, 1905, pl. XX (in colour) Annual Report of the National Art-Collections
Fund, 1921, facing p. 15. The name “ Johannes de Taneto ” occurs in an inventory
of Canterbury Cathedra of the year I 321 (see Inventories of Christ Chureh, Canterbury,
J. Wickham Legg and W. H. St. John Hope, pp. 52, 59).
6. PORTIONS OF AN ORPHREY of linen, embroidered with gilt
thread and coloured silks in splitstitch and couched work. Apostles
on a diapered gold background of oak leaves under Gothic canopies ;
the crockets are of oak foliage, and there is a bird in each spandrel.
The figures are: St. Thomas with lance and book; St. James the
Greater with staff and scrip and book ; St. Andrew with saltire cross
and book; and the lower part of another Apostle. On a separate
fragment is the upper part of a figure of St. Paul with sword and
25
book. The orphrey was, perhaps, originally part of a cope. Some-
what similar arrangements may be seen on the orphreys of English
copes at St. John Lateran, Rome, and Toledo. About 1500. From
the Hochon Collection. Plate XIII.
L. 3 ft. 11% in., W. 7% in. (827A L. 9 in.). 827, 827A-1903. Neg. Nos. 26261, 26262,
2626;, 37436, 62169. Part: De Farey, pl. 152.
7. FIVE CUSHIONS, the tops covered with portions of an orphrey,
embroidered on pale-brown silk damask over linen with gilt thread
and coloured silks in split stitch and couched work: the cushions,
padded with wool and lined with brown leather, have remains of
blue and purple silk fringes and tassels. Saints under cusped arches
over cusped octagons with heraldic shields, and other emblems. The
saints are : 5, a Pope with double cross-staff : 5a, St. Philip the Apostle
with three loaves and book : 5b, St. Edward the Confessor, with the
model of a church and a sceptre: 5e, St. Simon the Apostle with
short knotted club and book : 5d, St. Thomas the Apostle with lance
and book. The shields are: 5, Azure six lions argent, 3, 2, and 1,
for Leyburne : 5a and 5b, Argent six eross-erosslets fitehy sable, 5, 2,
and 1, and a ehief azure eharged with two mullets or Piereed gules, for Clinton :
on 5e and 5d are remains of canopies with two mullets or Piereed gules.
William de Clinton, first earl of Huntingdon, married Juliana de
Leyburne in 1529 ; he died in 1354 and she in 1367. The orphrey
to which the figures and shields belonged was probably part of a
cope : the cushions, made up at a later date, come from St. Leonard’s
Church, Catworth, Huntingdonshire. Early 14th eentury.
Plate XIV.
L. from 15 to 17% in., W. from 7% to 9 in., including fringe. 836 to 840-1902.
Neg. Nos. 23294, 23295, 23296. Acquired from the Rector and Churchwardens
with the permission of the Bishop of the Diocese of Ely. Burlington Fine Arts
Club, Catalogue of Exhibition of English Embroidery, 1905, pl. VI, 2.
8. PORTIONS OF A COPE of crimson silk embroidered with gilt
and silver thread and coloured silks in split stitch and couched work.
The Tree of Jesse. In the centre, at the lower edge, lies the figure
of Jesse, from whose body springs a vine with scrolling branches,
bearing leaves and fruit : among the branches are figures of the
26
prophets and ancestors of Christ, with names in silver thread beside
them or on scrolls. In the centre, above Jesse (IESSE) : King David
(DAVIT): King Solomon (SALOMON)! and the Virgin and Child
enthroned. On the left side: Pharez (PHARES PPHE) : Jacob (IACOB
PPHE) : King Abijah (AB1As REX) : Abraham (ABRAHAL PPHE) :
Eliakim(EL1AoH1M PPHE). A prophet . . . PPHE), perhaps Ezekiel.
On the right side: the prophet Isaiah (ISAYE PPHE): the prophet
Daniel (DANIEL . . .): Moses (MoYzEs PPHE): King Rehoboam
(RoBoAs REX) : the prophet Jeremiah (IEREMIAS PPHE) : Zerubbabel
(ZOROBABEL). The cope was in a chapel at Brockhampton, near
Havant, Hampshire, from 1718 to 18 57 or 1858; its mutilated
condition is due to the fact that it was cut to pieces in order that
parts of it might be made up into a chasuble. Early 14th eentury.
Plates XV and XVI.
Greatest L. 7 ft. 1% in., greatest \V. 4 ft. 6 in. 175-1889. Neg. Nos. 15451, 15452,
18855. 29317. 29518. 59042. s74s2- De Faro’. PL 42-
See Proeeedings of the S oeiety of Antiquaries, IX, 274. 1883.
9. BAND of crimson velvet over linen, embroidered with gilt and
silver thread and coloured silks in split stitch and couched work.
The embroideries represent part of a series of scenes from the Life
of the Virgin and of Christ, under buttressed and crocketed arches :
the band is in three parts, the first containing three subjects, and
imperfect at the beginning; the second, two subjects, and imperfect
at the end; the third, complete at both ends, five subjects (L. 2 ft.
9 The subjects are :-——1. The Angel appearing to St. Anne,
who is reading from a book Psalm li. (Vulgate 1.), MISERERE MEI DEUS :
the angel bears a scroll with the words OCCURRE v1Ro AD PORTAM.
2. The Meeting of St. Anne and St. Joachim at the Golden Gate.
5. The Birth of the Virgin : above, the Hand of God in benediction.
4. The Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple. 5. The Education
of the Virgin by St. Anne : on the book is DOMINE LABIA MEA. At
least one subject is missing at this point, probably the Betrothal of
the Virgin to St. Joseph. 6. The Annunciation: the angel holds a
scroll with AVE MARIA GRACIA. 7. The Salutation of the Virgin
and St. Elizabeth. 8. The Nativity of Christ : the ox and ass above
the manger, and St. Joseph at the foot of the bed. 9. The Angel
27'
announcing the Nativity to the Shepherds: he bears a scroll with
GLORIA IN EXCELSIS DEO. 10. The Wise Men on their Journey
from the East: three kings riding on horses. Further scenes may
have illustrated the Adoration of the Magi, the Flight into Egypt,
etc. In the spandrels are heraldic shields, alternately Barruly of ten
argent and gules, for Poyntz (P), and Azure three einquefoils or, 2 and 1,
for Bardolf.1 The original use was probably to form an upper
frontal or dorsal for an altar. Early 14th eentury. Plates XIX and XX.
L. 5 ft. 5 in., W. 10% in. 8218-1863. Neg. Nos. 13986, 62196 to 62199.
Gift of Mr. Ralph Oakden.
De Farcy, La Broderie, pl. 198, 3 (cp. p. 155).
10. FRONT OF A BURSE of linen, embroidered with coloured silks
and gilt thread in split and satin stitch. Christ on the Cross, with the
Virgin and St. John. The ground is covered with a pattern of
quatrefoils containing lions, the interspaces filled with foliated crosses.
The whole is enclosed by a square framework of slightly lobed and
pointed outline. About 1500. Plate XII.
L. 10 in., W. 9% in. T. 344—1920. Neg. No. 49446.
Bequest of Mr. Robert Elliot Pannett. Said to have come from Whitby Abbey.
See Burlington Magazine, Vol. XXXIX, pp. 9 and 10. 1921.
11. STOLE of linen embroidered in gilt and silver thread and
coloured silks in long-armed cross stitch and couched work with
shields of arms of English families. In the centre of the stole is a
square per pale gules and azure, over all a cross of St. Julian or.
On each side follow 19 shields on alternate squares of red and green,
as follows :—
1. Azure, a chevron or between 1. Quarterly or and gules, a
three bezants. Huttolfe. bendlet sable. P Fitzroger,
Lord of Clauering.
2. Gules, three sexfoils or 2. Azure, three pallets or.
pierced azure. D’Arey. P Gourney.
3. Quarterly and per fess dan- 5. Gales billety, a fess daneetty or.
cetty or and azure. Perot. 2 Beauehamp.
1 At an earlier date Hugh Poyntz (who was living in 1218), lord of the manor
of Tockington, in Gloucestershire, married Juliana, daughter of Hugh, and niece
and co-heir of Robert Bardolf of Kent.
28
IO.
II.
I2.
15.
14.
15.
16.
17.
. Gules, a fess between three
martlets or. Roose.
. Sable, three bars argent, in
chief three plates. Fitziohn
(Hungerford).
. Gules, three water bougets
or. Roos.
. Azure, two chevrons or.
Chaworth.
. Gules, a fess between three
mullets of eight points or,
pierced azure. Oxenham.
. Azure, five fusils conjoined
in fess or. Percy.
Gules, three leopards’ faces
fessant de lys or. Cantilupe.
Azure, three palets or, over
all a bend gules, three es-
callops argent. Grandison.
Gules, three round buckles
S apye.
Gyronny azure and or. Bas-
01.‘.
singbourne.
Gules, three mullets of six
points or, pierced azure.
Rydmore.
Vaire or and azure. Blount.
Gules, three escallops or.
Dacre.
Barry, nebuly of six or and
azure. Blount.
I0.
II.
12.
1;.
14.
15.
16.
17.
. Azure, a cross between four
cross-crosslets or.
. Gules a chevron between three
fieurs-de-lys or. Pickering
of Oswaldkirke.
. Azure, a cross between four
escallops or.
. Gules, a chevron between
three water bougets or.
Roos.
. Barry of six, or and azure, a
chief dancetty argent and
gules.
. Gules, a cross patonce or.
Latymer.
Azure, a chevron between
three mullets of six points,
or, pierced gules.‘ Chet-
wynde.
Gules, a fess between three
fleurs-de-lys or.
Azure, an eagle displayed
or. S arnefeld of S arnefeld.
Gules, three round buckles
or. S apye.
Azure, a chevron between
three escallops or.
Gules, a fess between three
escallops or. Chamberleyn.
Azure, five fusils conjoined
infess or. Percy.
Gules, a chevron between
three cross-crosslets or.
29
18. Azure, three cinquefoils or.
Bardolf.
19. Gules, a bend between six
martlets or. Mounteney.
Plate XXI.
Neg. No. 50921.
18. Gules, three fleurs-de-lys or.
Cantelowe.
19. Azure, a lion rampant or.
Breouse.
Early 14th eentuiy.
L. 8 ft. 11 in. with fringes, W. 2} in. T. 343-1921.
Gift of Monsieur G. Saville Seligman. Formerly the property of Lord Willoughby
de Broke. Burlington Fine Arts Club, Catalogue of Exhibition of English Embroidery/5
1905, pl. VII (1).
12. CHASUBLE of purple silk velvet, the orphreys embroidered
with gilt thread and coloured silks in split stitch and couched work.
On the pillar orphrey in front are represented (1) the Annunciation ;
(2) the Nativity of Christ; (3) the Adoration of the Magi; (4) the
Circumcision; (5) the Assumption of the Virgin, and (6) the Cruci-
fixion. The cross-shaped orphrey on the back is filled with a Tree of
Jesse-——above the reclining figure of Jesse are King David, King
Solomon, another King (Rehoboam P), the Virgin and Child, and
Christ in glory. In the arms of the cross are kneeling angels bearing
some emblems of the Passion. The subjects occupy Vesica-shaped
compartments which are formed by interlacing vine-stems with leaves
in the interspaces. The background is of diapered gold. Early 14th
eentuiy, the velvet of later date. Plates XVII and XVIII.
L. (back) 4 ft., greatest W. 2 ft. 5 in. Said to have come from a church in Spain.
T. 72-1922. Neg. Nos. 49464 and 49465.
Needle and Thread, Part III, fig. 78, 1914; (“ The Tree of Jesse in Medimval
Embroidery,” by Mrs. Archibald Christie), Victoria and Albert Museum, Catalogue
of the Franeo-British Exhibition of Textiles, 1921, pl. XIV ; De Farcy, La Broderie,
pl. 194, 2, second supplement (cp. p. 153).
1;. PORTION OF AN ORPHREY of linen embroidered with gilt
thread and coloured silks in split stitch and couched work. Saints on
a diapered gold background under foliated Gothic canopies : there
is a bird in each spandrel. The figures are : St. John the Evangelist
with palm-branch and cup, from which issues a dragon: St. Mary
Magdalene with book and pot of ointment. At the top is the lower
part of another saint. First half of 14th eentury.
L. 2 ft. 9 in., W. 6% in. 614-1898. Neg. No. 62049.
From the De Farcy collection.
Q
30
14. PORTIONS OF ORPHREYS of linen embroidered with gilt thread
and coloured silks in split stitch and couched work. Pairs of Apostles
and other saints on a diapered gold ground under foliated Gothic
canopies with twisted columns: in each spandrel is a bird. On one
part of the orphrey the figures are : St. Bartholomew with knife and
book, and St. Catherine with toothed wheel and sword: a virgin
martyr with palm and book, and St. Andrew with saltire cross. On
the other part : St. Helen with the True Cross, and St. James the Less
with long club : St. Paul with sword, and St. Faith with gridiron and
book. Middle of 14th century.
L. of each part, 2 ft. 5 in., W. 7% in. 828 and 829-1903. Neg. Nos. 59079, 62171.
De Farcy, pl. 53.
15. BURSE OR CORPORAL CASE of linen embroidered with coloured
silks, in cross and long-armed cross stitch, and touched with paint
in some places. On the front is a lozenge-shaped panel with the
Head of Christ, and an eagle in each corner: the dark-blue border
has crosses on stars, edged beyond with fleurs-de-lys painted over
with crosses. In each corner is an eagle. On the back is a panel of
similar form with the Agnus Dei, and a cross and star in each corner :
the red border of peacocks and fleurs-de-lys is edged with smaller
fleurs-de-lys. In each corner is a star, enclosing a rosette. 14th
century.
L. 11% in., W. 10% in. each side. 1416-1874. Neg. Nos. 28659, 28640.
Gift of the Rev. Daniel Haigh. Two sheets of MS. on vellum, which formed the
stiffening of the burse, now opened out, have been transferred to the Department
of Engraving (D. 1566, 1567). Cf. similar decoration on the painted burse at
Hessett; painted photograph, D. 11 and 12-1906.
16. PORTIONS OF AN ORPHREY of green velvet, embroidered with
gilt thread, partly raised over cords, and coloured silks in split stitch
and couched work. The ornament consists of a double, interlacing
band forming barbed quatrefoils, the intervals filled in with oak-
leaves and acorns. In the quatrefoils are figures of angels holding
crowns alternating with a series of four saints : St. Catherine with
wheel, St. Margaret (P) with cross-staff, St. Mary Magdalene with
pot of ointment, and virgin saint with a book. These portions of an
orphrey were at one time attached to the “ Jesse ” Cope (8), and were
51
acquired with it ; they are probably of English workmanship. Seeond
half of 14th eentury. Plate XXII.
L. (together) 5 ft. 6 in., W. 6 in. 176 and A—1889. Neg. Nos. 22744, 22745, 27891.
Proeeedings of the Soeiety of Antiquaries, ix, 275, 188;. De Farcy, La Broderie,
pl. 197, 1 to 4, second supplement (cp. p. 153).
17. PANELS FROM ORPHREYS, of linen embroidered with gilt
and silver thread and coloured silks in split stitch and laid and couched
work. Scenes from the life of the Virgin and Christ, each on a diapered
gold ground beneath a double foliated Gothic canopy. The sixteen
panels, now separated, represent the following subjects :—-1. The
Refusal of St. Joachim’s Offering. 2. The Angel appearing to
St. Joachim among his Sheep : the inscription GLORIA IN EX . . . on
the scroll probably arises from a confusion with the similar scene
of the angel appearing to the shepherds at the Nativity of Christ.
5. The Meeting of St. Joachim and St. Anne at the Golden Gate
(fragments only). 4. The Nativity of the Virgin. 5. The Childhood
of the Virgin: St. Joachim and St. Anne watching her as she learns
to walk with a go-cart. 6. The Presentation of the Virgin in the
Temple. 7. The Education of the Virgin by St. Anne. 8. The
Betrothal of the Virgin to St. Joseph. 9. The Annunciation. 10. The
Dream of St. Joseph (mutilated). 11. The Salutation of the Virgin
and St. Elizabeth. 12. The Nativity of Christ. 1;. The Virgin and
Child enthroned. 14. The Flight into Egypt (mutilated). 15. The
Miracle of the Palm Tree on the Flight. 16. The Massacre of the
Innocents by soldiers in armour. These panels were joined together
for orphreys, probably for a chasuble and other vestments. Seeond
half of 14th eentuiy. Plate XXIII.
L. from 12% to 13% in., W. 5% to 6% in. 28-1892. Neg. Nos. 37454.
Orphreys with almost precisely similar subjects of a slightly later date may be found
on a chasuble and dalmatic, and another chasuble, exhibited at the Burlington Fine
Arts Club in 1905, Catalogue of Exhibition of English Embroideries, 1905, p. 48,
pl. V., p. 75, pl. XXVII. Compare the earlier and far finer treatment of some
of these subjects in 9.
18. CHASUBLE of Italian 15th century tissue woven in red silk and
gilt thread, the orphreys embroidered on linen with gilt and silver
thread and coloured silks in split and satin stitch, and laid and couched
work. The back orphrey contains pairs of figures on a diapered gold
52
ground beneath foliated canopies with twisted columns : Christ
appearing to St. Mary Magdalene in the garden: a female saint
with a book and an apostle holding a large cross and book (perhaps
St. Helen and St. Thomas) : a virgin martyr with sword and
book and an apostle with a tall pillar (perhaps St. Catherine
and St. Bartholomew); a virgin martyr with saw and book and
an archbishop (perhaps St. Fausta and St. Thomas of Canterbury) :
St. Laurence with gridiron and a crowned abbess, probably St. Ethel-
dreda : St. Simon with saw and book and a virgin martyr with palm
and rose-garland, probably St. Cecily. The front orphrey contains
part of a foliated canopy and some figures of later date under archi-
tectural canopies : a prophet with scroll : part of a prophet or apostle :
and a prophet with a purse. A coat of arms Gules a fesse cheeky or and
sable between six cross crosslets argent (for Boteler or Kynnesman P),
impaling Gules two lions passant argent (for Le Strange), has been applied
to the centre of the back orphrey. Early 15th century : part of the front
orphrey, first half of 16th century. Plate XXIV.
L. 4 ft. 1 in., W. 2 ft. 8% in. 935-1901. Neg. Nos. 23427, 23428, 25334.
To this chasuble belong a stole, 13a (L. 8 ft. IO in., W. at end, 45'; in.), and maniple,
13b (L. 3 ft. 8 in., W. at end, 4% in.), of similar red tissue; presented by Mr. V.
Benguiat. De Farcy, La Broderie, pl. 211, second supplement (cp. p. 156).
19: PORTIONS OF ORPHREYS for a chasuble, linen embroidered with
gilt thread and coloured silks in split and satin stitch, and laid and
couched work. In the centre of the back orphrey is Christ on the
Cross between the Virgin and St. John, surrounded by angels, three
of whom carry chalices : above is the Holy Ghost as a dove. The
other portions of the orphreys have figures on a diapered gold ground
under foliated canopies : St. John the Evangelist with cup and palm:
St. Sitha (Zita?) with three loaves : St. Thomas with a lance
(mutilated): and a fragment of a canopy. Late 14th century. The
English origin of these pieces is not certain. Plate XX VII.
Aggregate L. about 4 ft. 7% in. W. of orphrey, about 61} in. 1360 to 1>—19o4. Neg,
Nos. 37436, 62704, 62705.
20. FRONTAL of pink satin, decorated with orphreys from a chasuble
and another vestment, embroidered on linen with gilt thread and
55
coloured silks in brick and split stitch, and laid and couched work.
The satin, which is of later date, is worked with the initials E.K. and
R.K. in silver-gilt thread and spangles. On the central T-shaped
orphrey is Christ on the Cross between the Virgin and St. John,
with angels carrying chalices : below, and in the orphrey on the right,
are figures on a diapered gold ground under foliated canopies: a
virgin martyr with palm and book: St. Andrew with saltire cross
(mutilated): St. Mary Magdalene with pot of ointment and book:
St. Bartholomew with knife and book: St. Apollonia with tooth in
tongs and book. The left-hand orphrey, of later date, has figures on
a gold ground under architectural canopies : a prophet with scroll :
St. James the Less with long club: a prophet. Early 15th eentury
and first half of 16th eentury.
L. 5 ft. 7% in., W. 3 ft. 5 in. 817—1901. Neg. No. 24307.
21. PORTIONS OF AN ORPHREY of linen embroidered with gilt and
silver thread and coloured silks in split stitch and laid and couched
work. Figures of saints on a diapered gold ground beneath foliated
canopies with twisted columns: St. Edward the Martyr, crowned,
with sceptre and cup, stabbed with a dagger by a page holding the
cover of the cup : a prophet with shepherd’s crook and purse : and
St. Catherine with sword and wheel. First half of 15th eentury.
L. from 11% to 12;1- in., W. 8:}; in. 1468 to 15-1902. Neg. No. 62693.
22. ORPHREY FOR THE FRONT OF A CHASUBLE, embroidered with
gilt thread and coloured silks in split stitch and laid and couched
work on linen, consisting of three vertical panels stitched together;
St. Helen, crowned and holding the Cross ; the Virgin standing at a
reading-desk with a pot of lilies beside her ; St. Andrew holding his
cross. First half of 15th eentury.
L. 3 ft., W. about 6 in. T. 57-1913. Neg. No. 62693.
Formerly in the possession of the late G. E. Street, R.A.
23. PANEL FROM AN ORPHREY, of linen, embroidered with gilt thread
and coloured silks in split and satin stitch, and laid and couched work.
St. Laurence vested as a deacon in alb, dalmatic and apparelled amice,
holding a book in his left hand and a gridiron in his right. He stands
C
34
beneath a cusped and crocketted arch with foliage in red and blue,
supported by twisted columns. The background is of diapered gold.
First half of 15th century. Plate XX V.
L. 13% in., W. 7 in. T. 226-1926. Neg. No. 57554.
24. CHASUBLE of crimson velvet brocade (velvet on velvet) with
loops of gilt thread on a ground of brocaded cloth-of-gold; the
orpheys embroidered on linen with gilt and silver thread and coloured
silks in split and brick stitch, and laid and couched work. On the
back orphrey is Christ on the Cross between the Virgin and St. John,
with, above, God the Father and the Holy Ghost as a dove : below
are a pair of saints on a diapered gold ground under architectural
canopies: St. Francis of Assisi with the stigmata and St. John the
Baptist with the Lamb, St. Clara with a monstrance and a bishop
(the last two figures mutilated). On the front orphrey are St. James
the Less with a long club and a virgin martyr (St. Catherine P), St. Sitha
with a rosary and St. Thomas with a spear. In the cross arms of the
back orphrey are two angels carrying shields with the arms of Henry
de Beauchamp, duke of Warwick (cl. 1445), after his marriage with
Lady Cecily Nevill in 1434. These read : quarterly, (1) Gules a fesse
between six cross crosslets or, for Beauchamp : (2) or three chevrons gules,
for Clare: (3) quarterly argent and gules a frette or over all a bend sable,
for Despenser: (4) checky or and azure a chevron ermine, for Newburgh,
impaling, quarterly, (1) and (4) quarterbr argent three lozenges conjoined
in fesse gules, for Montacute, with or an eagle displayed vert, for
Monthermer: (2) and (3) gules a chevron argent a label gobony of three
points argent and azure, for Nevill, earl of Salisbury. Supporters :
dexter, a bear argent, muzzled, collared, and chained to a ragged sta_;f ; and
sinister, a grijin per fesse or and argent. The velvet is Florentine, of
the middle of the 1 5th century. Second quarter of 15th century.
Plate XX VI.
L. 3 ft. 11 in., W. 2 ft. 10 in. 402-1907. Neg. No. 32627, 39087.
Said to have come from Woodstock. The front is much mutilated. Exhibited
at the Burlington Fine Arts Club, Catalogue of Exhibition of English Embroideries,
1905, pl. XXIV.
25. ORPHREYS for a chasuble, linen embroidered with gilt and
silver thread and coloured silks in split, brick and satin stitch, and laid
55
and couched work. On the back orphrey is Christ on the Cross
between the Virgin and St. John : above are God the Father appearing
from clouds and the Holy Ghost as a clove, and on each side are angels
appearing from clouds and carrying scrolls. Below are pairs of
saints on a gold diapered ground under architectural canopies :
St. Bartholomew with knife and book and a nun (P) carrying a cross-
staff, perhaps St. Helen: and a virgin saint and St. Andrew with
saltire cross (mutilated). On the front orphrey are St. John the Baptist
with book and a virgin martyr with sword, probably St. Catherine:
St. Sitha (Zita P) with rosary and St. Thomas with lance and book :
and an apostle and a virgin martyr, neither of them bearing emblems.
Middle of 15th eentury. Plates XX VII and XX VIII.
458, L. 3 ft. 7% in., W. 24% in. ; 458a, L. 3 ft. % in., W. 8 in. 458 and A—1905.
NEE NOS- 57442. 57455-
26. PORTION OF AN ALTAR-FRONTAL, of dark blue velvet, decorated
with embroidery in gilt thread and coloured silks in long and short,
brick and split stitch, and laid and couched work, and spangles chiefly
worked upon linen and afterwards applied.
On the left are two pairs of kneeling figures: the upper pair
consists of a man in coat, waistbelt, stockings and long pointed shoes,
and a woman in a long gown with girdle and kerchief ; they kneel
on tasselled cushions and hold rosaries in their hands : above a scroll
which runs—oRate . Pro . AnImABus . HENRICI . SMYTH . ET . JoHannaE .
UXoRis . EJtlJ‘ . The lower pair wear long robes ; the man is bare-
headed, a pouch attached to his waistbelt; the lady with girdle and
kerchief ; above, a scroll which runs—oRate . Pro . AnImABus . THoMaE .
SMYTH . El‘ . ]OHannaE . UXORis . E_]ttJ‘ . On the right are three large
conventional flowers. Third quarter of 15th eentury.
L. 2 ft. 3% in., W. 2 ft. 3 in. T. 194-1911. Neg. No. 35237.
Said to have come from Worcestershire.
27. COPE of tawny-coloured silk damask, with hood and orphrey
of green velvet edged with crimson, with ornaments embroidered on
linen with gilt thread and coloured silks in split and brick stitch, and
laid and couched work. In the centre of the cope is the Assumption
of the Virgin: below are three angels appearing from the clouds
C 2
36
and carrying scrolls with DA GLORIA DEO. The rest of the cope is
powdered with fleurs-de-lys and floral devices. On the hood is a
standing figure of Christ blessing : the orphreys are decorated with
floral devices, and the morse is of plain green velvet. About I 5oo.
Plate XXXIII.
L. 9 ft. Io in., W. 4 ft. 9 in. 230-1879. Neg. Nos. 13976, 22755.
28. FRONTAL for an altar, made out of a cope, tawny-coloured
velvet with ornaments embroidered on linen with gilt thread and
coloured ilks in brick, split, and long and short stitch, and couched
work. In the centre is the Assumption of the Virgin: the rest of
the ground is powdered with radiating floral devices. Late 15th
century. Plate XXXI.
L. 7 ft. 10 in., W. 3 ft. 1618-1888. Neg. Nos. 37437, 37438.
Said to have been used in a Roman Catholic chapel at Kingerby in Lincolnshire.
A small fragment forming part of this frontal, and now exhibited with it, was
presented in I899 by T. J. Wilson, Esq. (from whom the rest was purchased).
L. 15% in., W. 7 in. (2oa.)
29. COPE of purple velvet with hood, orphreys, and ornaments
embroidered on linen with gilt and silver thread and coloured silks
in satin and split stitch, and laid and couched work, and partly raised
by padding. In the centre is the Assumption of the Virgin : below
are three seraphim standing on wheels (one on a mound) and carrying
scrolls with GLORIA IN EXCELSIS DEO. The rest of the cope is powdered
with fleurs-de-lys, roses, and floral devices. On the hood, under
an architectural canopy, is the seated figure of God the Father holding
three souls in a napkin; the morse is embroidered with two angels
carrying a shield. On the orphreys are figures of apostles and prophets,
under architectural canopies with fluers-de-lys issuing out of roses :
to the right, St. Peter with keys and book: a prophet: St. Thomas
with lance and book: a prophet: to the left, St. Paul with sword
and book : a prophet : St. Bartholomew with knife and book :
a prophet. Late 1 5th century. Plate XXX.
L. 10 ft. 0% in., W. 4 ft. II in., including fringe. 1376-1901. Neg. No. 26I5I.
3o. DALMATIC of red silk velvet, the pillar orphreys and ornaments
embroidered with gilt thread and coloured silks in back and split
37
stitch, and laid and couched work, chiefly on linen and applied. On
the orphrey in front are St. Andrew with saltire cross, an Old Testa-
ment prophet, and St. Paul with sword. On the orphrey at the back
are an apostle with sword, and two other prophets. The figures are
beneath architectural canopies surmounted by a fleur-de-lys. The
ornaments on the body of the vestment consist of floral devices with
the addition on the back of seraphim standing on wheels and carrying
scrolls with the inscription “ Da Gloriam Deo ” (almost completely
worn away), and two bells (probably a rebus). Latter Part of 15th
eentury. Plate XXIX.
L. (back) 3 ft. 6 in., W. (with sleeves) 3 ft. 9% in. T. 49-1924. Neg. Nos. 53697
and 53698.
A frontal made from a red velvet cope with bells worked in gold upon it is in the
possession of St. John’s College, Oxford, see Royal Academy, Exhibition of English
Primitives, 1923, No. 126, pl. LVII. Another similar cope is reproduced in Zeit-
sehriftfiir Christliehe Kunst, XXIII, p. 218 (I910) ; also on A.L. photograph 339-
1911 (Kunstgewerbe Museum, Cologne).
31. CHASUBLE of brocaded red satin, the pillar-shaped orphrey
embroidered with gilt and silver thread and coloured silks in split
and satin stitch, and laid and couched work on linen. On the front
Orphrey are represented the following subjects : (1) the Meeting of
Joachim and Anna at the Golden Gate; (2) the Birth of the Virgin,
and (3) the Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple. On the back
orphrey the subjects are: (1) the betrothal of Joachim and Anna;
(2) Joachim and Anna at the marriage feast, and (3) their offering
rejected by the high-priest. The subjects are shown beneath turreted
canopies on a ground of diapered gold. The satin has a diagonal
pattern of a twisted thorn and foliage, and a hawk swooping
upon a quail. At the bottom of the back orphrey is an embroidered
fragment, showing parts of canopies, from a vestment of the 14th
century. 15th eentury ; the brocade 19th century.
Greatest L. (back) 4 ft. 2 in., W. 2 ft. 10% in. T. 27-1922. Neg. ‘Nos. 51257 and
51258.
Gift of Mrs. Gordon-Canning. From Hartpury House, near Gloucester. Burlington
Fine Arts Club, Catalogue of Exhibition of English Embroidery, 1905, pl. XXVII.
32. CHASUBLE of white silk damask, embroidered with gilt thread
and coloured silks in split and satin stitch. and laid and couched work
38
on linen. The pillar-shaped orphrey in front has six saints arranged
in pairs beneath Gothic canopies. On the cross-shaped orphrey at
the back is represented the Blessed Trinity with attendant angels
bearing shields amid large curved leaves ; there are also four saints
below in pairs. The applied ornament on the body of the vestment
consists of seraphim standing upon wheels, fleurs-de-lys and con-
ventional flowers. The damask has a pattern of lotus flowers and
stalks. Ijth century; the damask Chinese weaving of 17th or 18th
century. Plate XXXII.
Greatest L. ( ask) 4 ft. 3 in., ‘X/. 2 ft. 7% in. T. 28-1922. Neg. No. 51259.
Gift of Mrs. Gordon-Canning. From Hartpury House, near Gloucester.
3 3. CHASUBLE of blue satin, the orphreys of red satin embroidered
with gilt thread and coloured silks in split stitch and laid and couched
work on linen. The pillar-shaped orphrey at the front has a
conventional flower and tendrils. On the cross-shaped orphrey at the
back is a figure of Christ holding an orb in His left hand and with the
right hand raised in the attitude of benediction, surrounded by rays ;
below are two flowers. The ornament on the body of the vestment
consists of seraphim standing upon wheels, fleurs-de-lys and con-:
ventional flowers surrounded by tendrils and ‘rays, which are dotted
with spangles. About 1500.
Greatest L. (back) 4 ft. 2% in., W. 2 ft. II in. T. 30-1922. Neg. No. 51261.
Gift of Mrs. Gordon-Canning. From Hartpury House, near Gloucester.
34. CHASUBLE of tawny-coloured velvet with orphreys and orna-
ments embroidered on linen with gilt thread and coloured silks in
split and brick stitch, and laid and couched work. The ground is
powdered with figures of seraphim and floral devices. On the
orphreys are figures of apostles and prophets on a diapered gold
ground under architectural canopies. On the back, St. Philip with
three loaves: a prophet: St. Bartholomew with knife and book:
King David with harp: St. John the Evangelist with cup: King
David (repeated): St. James the Less with long club and book
(mutilated). On the front: St. James the Greater with book and
pilgrim’s staff (P): a prophet (mutilated): a prophet: St. Thomas
With small cross (mutilated). Earbr 16th century.
59
L. 4 ft. 4% in., W. 3 ft. 4045, 4046 and A-1856. Neg. Nos. 37398, 37399.
With this chasuble were bought a stole, 34a (L. 8 ft. 6 in., W. at end, 22- in.), and
maniple, 34b (L. 3 ft. 3 in., W. at end, 2% in.), of similar tawny-coloured velvet
with remains of embroidered floral devices in brick stitch, and laid and couched
work cut out from the ground of some vestment ; they are said to have been found
behind the wainscot of a house near Bath.
35. CHASUBLE of purple-blue velvet, with orphreys and orna-
ments embroidered on linen with gilt thread and coloured silks in
split and brick stitch, and laid and couched work. The ground is
powdered with figures of seraphim, standing on wheels and carrying
scrolls with DA GLORIAM DEO, and floral devices. On the orphreys
are figures on a diapered gold ground under architectural canopies.
On the back: Christ on the Cross, with two angels carrying
chalices: an apostle (P), perhaps St. James the Greater, with scrip
and book: a prophet (mutilated). On the front: St. Andrew with
saltire cross : a prophet: St. John the Evangelist with cup Early
16th eentury. Plate XXX VII .
L. 3 ft. 8 in., W. 2 ft. 4 in. 665-1896. Neg. Nos. 62691, 62692.
36. CHASUBLE of dark blue velvet with ornaments embroidered
on linen with gilt thread and coloured silks in split, brick and long
and short stitch, and laid and couched work. The ground, which has
been made up from a cope, is powdered with radiating floral devices.
On the orphreys, edged with braid, are other floral devices of different
design. Early 16th eentury. Plate XXX VI.
L. 3 ft. 10 in., \‘</. 2 ft. 5% in. 696-1902. Neg. Nos. 24148, 24149.
Said to have come from Hexham.
37. CHASUBLE of dark-blue velvet with orphreys and ornaments
embroidered on linen with gilt thread and coloured silks in split
and brick stitch, and laid and couched work. The orphreys are
decorated with figures on diapered gold grounds under architectural
canopies. On the back [cross] orphrey are Christ on the Cross with
two angels holding chalices, and the Holy Ghost above as a dove :
St. John the Evangelist blessing a cup from which a green dragon
emerges, and St. James the Less with a long club. On the front
orphrey are a reversed canopy: St. Matthias with a halberd: a
4o
prophet (P) [these last two figures missing], and another prophet.
The ground is powdered with roses, singly or in pairs, on thick
stems with round leaves. On the back are two six-winged angels
under scrolls with the inscription DA GLORIA DEO, and two double-
headed eagles. Early 16th century. Plates XXXI V and XXX V.
L. 4 ft. 2 in., W. 3 ft. 5 in. 24o—I9o8. Neg. Nos. 37443, 37453, 59078.
Gift of Major Harlowe Turner. Said to have been found, with 40, at Bourne, in
South Lincolnshire, where it was suggested that they might originally have come
from the Abbey of Bourn.
38. PORTIONS of the orphrey of a chasuble, embroidered on linen
with gilt and silver thread and coloured silks in split and brick stitch,
and laid and couched work, and mounted on a (modern) red velvet
cross. Christ on the Cross ; and a shield with the arms of Elizabeth
Scrope, second wife of John de Vere, 13th earl of Oxford (d. 1512-
I5I3): the countess of Oxford was married after December I507
and died in June 15 37. The shield bears, quarterly (I) and (4),
quarterly gules and or in the first quarter a mullet argent, for Vere ; (2) and
(3), gules a bend between six cross-crosslets fitchy argent, for Howard;
impaling, quarterly (I) and (4), azure a bend or thereon in chief a mullet
sable, for Scrope ; (2) and (3), argent a saltire engrailedgu/es, for Tiptoft.
Early I 6th century.
H. 23 in., W. 18% iii. T. 138-1909. Neg. NO. 62335.
Gift of Lieut.-Colonel G. B. Croft Lyons. See Burlington Fine Arts Club, Catalogue
of Exhibition of English Embroidery, 1905, p. 81.
39. CHASUBLE of dark purple velvet embroidered with gilt thread
and coloured silks in split and brick stitch, and laid and couched
work on linen. The orphreys are worked in the same materials,
On the pillar-shaped orphrey in front are King David (P) with sceptre
and harp, an Old Testament prophet, and St. James the Less with
club. On the cross-shaped orphrey at the back is the Crucifixion, with
the Holy Ghost in the form of a dove hovering above the Cross,
and attendant angels who bear chalices; below are St. Philip with
three loaves, and an old Testament prophet. The figures are beneath
battlemented canopies, on a ground of diapered gold. The ornament
on the body of the vestment consists of seraphim standing upon
41
wheels, and conventional flowers, surrounded by tendrils and rays,
which are dotted with spangles. Early 16th eentury.
Greatest L. (back) 3 ft. 10;} in., W. 2 ft. 7;} in. T. 26-1922. Neg. No. 51256.
Gift of Mrs. Gordon-Canning. From Hartpury House, near Gloucester. Burling-
ton Fine Arts Club, Catalogue of Exhibition of English Embroidery, 1905, pl. XXVII.
40. CHASUBLE of crimson velvet with orphreys and ornaments
embroidered (mainly on linen) with gilt thread and coloured silks
in split and brick stitch, and laid and couched work. The orphreys
are decorated with figures of apostles and prophets on diapered gold
grounds under architectural canopies. On the back [cross] orphrey
,are St. Paul with sword and book : a prophet : St. Philip with cross-
staff and book : King David with a harp : St. Peter with a key : and
a prophet with a scroll. On the front orphrey, a prophet with a closed
scroll : St. James the Less with long club and book, and two canopies,
etc., from other figures. The ground, which has been made up from
a cope, is powdered with six—winged angels emerging from clouds,
fleurs-de-lys, and floral devices radiating from a centre, which seems
to have represented the Assumption of the Virgin, with angels above
branching stems with lilies. First half of 16th eentury.
L. 4 ft., W. 2 ft. 8 in. 241-1908. Neg. Nos. 37400, 37401.
Gift of Major Harlowe Turner. Said to have been found, with 37, at Bourne, in
South Lincolnshire, where it was suggested that they might originally have come
from the Abbey of Bourn. The figures on the orphreys have probably formed the
orphrey of the cope from which the ground is made up.
41. CHASUBLE of black velvet with orphreys of crimson velvet;
the ornaments embroidered on white satin, green silk and linen, with
gilt and silver thread and spangles and coloured silks in satin, brick
and split stitch, and laid and couched work. The ground and orphreys
are powdered with figures of angels blowing trumpets, with scrolls
SURGITE . MORTUI and VENITE . AD . IUDICIUM, six-winged angels
carrying scrolls with IUSTORUM . ANIME, and IN . MANU . DE1 . SUNT,
and half-length figures of the dead arising. In the centre of the back
orphrey are the initials R.T. looped by tasselled cords to a crozier
passing through a mitre: below are traces of a tun or cask. The
same rebus and monogram occur on the tombstone of Robert
42
Thornton, 22nd Abbot of Jerveaulx (1510-1533), in Middleham
Church, Yorkshire (illustrated in Whitaker, History of Richmondshire,
I. 334). The chasuble must have been used for Requiem Masses,
and was, perhaps, made up from a funeral pall. First half of 16th
century. Plate XXX VIII.
L. 3 ft. 8% in., W. 2 ft. 3% in. 697-1902. Neg. Nos. 24146, 24147.
Said to have come from Hexham. - With this and the two other chasubles was
purchased a maniple, 41a (L. 3 ft. 9 in., W. at end, 7:}; in.), of purple velvet with
braid crosses applied.
42. ORPHREY for the back of a chasuble, linen embroidered with
gilt thread and coloured silks in brick and split stitch, and laid and
couched work: figures on a diapered gold ground under archi-
tectural canopies. Christ on the Cross, with two angels holding
chalices and the Holy Ghost above as a dove : St. Paul with sword
and book : and a prophet. First half of 16th century.
L. 4 ft. 2% in., W. 20% in. 6I5—1898. Neg. No. 62703.
De Farcy, La Broderie, pl. 68.
43. PORTIONS OF A CHASUBLE with ornaments embroidered on
linen with gilt and silver thread and coloured silks, in brick and
split stitch, and laid and couched work. The ground of crimson
velvet is closely powdered with seraphim, standing on wheels and
carrying scrolls with DA GLORIAM DEO, two-headed eagles, and fleurs-
de-lys, some of which are missing. First half of 16th century.
Each portion, H. 3 ft. 2 in., W. 1o% in. 131 and A—19oo. Neg. No. 62703.
Paintings of details in water colour, 234 to 234c—19o2.
44. FRAGMENTS of embroidery from a vestment. Four six-winged
angels with scrolls with DA GLORIAM DEO, embroidered on padded
linen with gilt thread and coloured silks in split stitch and laid and
couched work. Early 16th century.
H. about 8% in., W. about 6% in. each. 140 to c—19o9. Neg. No. 62336.
Gift of Lieut.-Colonel G. B. Croft-Lyons. See Burlington Fine Arts Club, Catalogue
of Exhibition of English Embroidery, 1905, p. 80.
45 . OHASIIBLE of light green watered silk, the orphreys embroidered
with gilt thread and coloured silks in split and brick stitch, and laid
43
and couched work on linen. The pillar-shaped orphrey at the front
has St. John the Evangelist with a cup, an Old Testament prophet,
and St. Philip with three loaves. On the cross-shaped orphrey at
the back is represented the Crucifixion with the Holy Ghost in the
form of a dove hovering above the Cross, and attendant angels who
bear chalices ; below are the Virgin (P) and an Old Testament
prophet. Seeond quarter of 16th eentury; the silk of later date.
Greatest L. (back) 3 ft. 8% in., W. 2 ft. 7% in. T. 29-1922. Neg. No. 51260.
Gift of Mrs. Gordon-Canning. From Hartpury House, near Gloucester.
46. CHALICE COVER (P) of linen embroidered with silver thread
and pink silk in satin and hem stitch. In the centre is a diamond-
shaped ornament surrounded by a border with UNTO GOD GIF PRIS :
in the corners are small conventional birds. The outer border
contains the verse: 0 LORD CONSIDER MY DISTRES, AND VITH SPED
SOM PETE TAK, MI SIN DEFAC MI FALT REDRES, LORD FOR THI GREAT
1/Ierey SAK : probably the beginning of a metrical version of Psalm li.
(Vulgate 1.). In one corner are the letters R0. The words and lines
are separated by various small devices. 16th eentury.
L. 19 in., W. 18 in. 1415-1874. Neg. No. 37402.
Gift of the Rev. Daniel Haigh. The orginal use of this cover is not quite certain.
47. FRONTAL of crimson stamped velvet, with figures and shields
embroidered on linen with gilt and silver thread and coloured silks
in brick, split and satin, stitch, and laid and couched work. The
figures are partly raised by padding. In the centre is Christ on the
Cross between the Virgin and St. John: on the left kneels Ralph,
4th earl of Westmorland, and behind him seven sons : on the right,
his 'wife, the Lady Catherine Stafford, and behind her thirteen
daughters. His surcoat is quartered: 1, gules a saltire [argent], for
Nevill; 2, England within a bordure of France, for Holand, duke of
Exeter ; 3, England within a bordure, for Holand, earl of Kent;
4, [argent] fretty gules and a eanton, for Nevill of Bulmer ; his helmet
is crested with a bull’s head. On her mantle is emblazoned, at her
left arm : 1, France and England (per fesse) and a bordure, for Wood-
stock ; 2, azure a bend or between six lions ramjbant, for Bohun of Here-
ford ; 3, or a eheuron gules, for Stafford; 4, azure on a bend between six
44
lions rampant three mullets gules, for Bohun of Northampton; at her
right arm : Woodstock (France and England quarterly), and in base
Stafford impaling Bohun of Northampton; also the Bohun badge,
a white swan collared and chained. Above are four shields, apparently
added in the 18th century to represent the arms of the Staffords in
their ducal period (1444-1521): I and 4, Woodstock (as above);
2, Stafford; 3, Bohun of Hereford. Ralph Nevill, 4th earl of West-
morland, married Lady Catherine Stafford, daughter of Edward,
3rd duke of Buckingham, in 1523 ; he died in 1549, and she in 15 5 5.
It is possible that this frontal was made up from a funeral pall, of
which 48 formed part. Middle of 16th century. Plate XXXIX.
L. 6 ft. 9 in., W. 2 ft. 8% in. 35-I888. Neg. Nos. 29324, 29325, 29326.
Reproduced : De Farcy, La Broderie, pl. 260, 4, second supplement (cp. p. 171).
48. FIGURE of St. Catherine of Alexandria, embroidered on linen with
gilt thread and coloured silks in brick, split and satin stitch, and laid
and couched work, partly padded, and applied to a panel in crimson
velvet of a more recent date. She holds a book and long sword:
behind her at one side is the wheel, at the other the prostrate figure
of the Emperor Maximin: the ground is worked with green silk
and small clusters of formal flowers. The work is similar. to that on
the Frontal 47, and this figure was probably originally connected
with it, as patron saint of Lady Catherine Stafford. Middle of 16th
century.
H. 2 ft. 2% in., W. 2 ft. 1 in. 36-1888. Neg. No. 35760.
49. CHALICE-VEIL of linen, embroidered with red silk in stem,
braid and double running stitch, and buttonholing. In the middle is
a rayed medallion containing the sacred monogram IHS; in each
corner is the winged head of an angel. There is a border of thirty
square compartments outlined by narrow bands of geometrical orna-
ment each being filled by emblems of the Passion; the crown of
thorns; the napkin of St. Veronica; the sword, halberd, lance,
purse and lantern ; the pillar, handkerchief and the cock ; pincers,
hammer and three nails ; the cross with the sun and the moon above ;
the ladder, spear and sponge on a reed ; four scourges ; the seamless
coat and three dice ; the Ark. Early 17th century.
L. 16% in., W. 15 in. T. 1-1914. Neg. No. 38506.
45
THE ABBEY DORE VESTMENTS AND ALTAR
FURNITURE.
THIS interesting and unique collection was found in an oak chest
in a farmhouse at Abbey Dore in Herefordshire, belonging to
H. M. Gwillim, Esq. They are supposed to have come into the family
through his great grandmother, who belonged to the Vaughans in
Herefordshire. Their history is unknown, but they were probably
used by a Roman Catholic priest ministering to his flock in that
district. The mention of Perthir in a fragment of a letter found in
the Box, 822-1901, suggests that they were used by one of the Fran-
ciscans established at that place (not far from Abbey Dore) in the
17th and 18th centuries. The collection includes a complete set of
vestments and neeessaria missae, with the exception of the Amice and
Chalice and Paten, which would, no doubt, be carried separately by
the priest himself. The objects are of various dates, but some of them
have probably been in use continuously since before the Reforma-
tion. The whole collection was bought in 1901, after having been
exhibited on loan since 1884. Plate XL.
Neg. No. 30298.
50. BOX FOR wAFERs with cover, cylindrical in shape, of willow
and pine wood; still containing fragments of large wafers. Inside
are two pieces of paper, one from a Latin theological work and one
from a manuscript letter, roughly cut to fit the box.
H. 2 in., diameter 3% in. 822-1901.
51. PAIR OF CANDLESTICKS of turned lignum 1/ita ; the moulded
shafts screwing into the dome-shaped bases. Late 17th or early 18th
eentury.
H. 4-} in., diameter of base 3 in. 823 and A-1901.
52. CRUCIFIX of gilt bronze, with emblems of the Evangelists
(that, of St. Matthew missing) in coarse openwork on medallions of
dark-blue enamel at the ends of the limbs : the central figure is attached
by three nails. The edge is garnished with leaf-crockets : an
engraved diapered band runs down the middle of the limbs, and the
46
back of each medallion is engraved with a heraldic rose. The lower
end has been roughly shaped to fit a socket : the crucifix was probably
originally intended for alternative use as a processional or altar cross.
15th century.
H. 13% in., \\’l. 12 in. 824-1901.
5 3. CUSHION of Italian late 15th century green figured velvet:
probably used to support the rnissal on the altar.
L. 9% in., W. 3% in. 825-1901.
54. FRAGMENTS OF A CHALICE OOVER (P) now reduced to shreds,
of pink and brown silk damask: there are remains of an edging of
plaited gilt thread and spangles. The original shape, date, and use
can no longer be made out with any certainty.
L. of skein of shreds about 18 in. 826-1901.
5 5. PALL OR CHALICE—COVER of black velvet, with cross and border
applied in braid of brown linen and cream-coloured silk.
About 5% in. square. 827-1901.
56. SMALL PANEL of purple velvet, embroidered with gilt and silver
thread in couched work, silver strips and spangles: in the centre
is a cross with the initials E.L. on either side. The original use is
unknown.
L. 3% in., W. 2% in. 828-1901.
57. CORPORAL of fine linen, with a small cross embroidered
in the centre with black silk.
L. 10 in., W. 9?; in. 829-1901.
58. PURIFICATOR (for wiping the chalice) of fine linen, with a small
cross embroidered in one corner with cream-coloured silk.
L. 17% in., W. 8 in. 829A-I901.
59. COVER of linen, with three parallel inserted bands of coarse
pillow-made lace; perhaps for covering the other altar-linen, or for
a credence-table. 17th century.
L. 13% in., W. 12% in. 83o-1901.
47
60. BURSE OR CORPORAL CASE, made up from portions of orphreys
embroidered on linen with gilt thread and coloured silks in split stitch
and laid and couched work. The subject on both sides represents the
Coronation of the Virgin, enthroned beside Christ, who is blessing
her: on one side the figures are on a diapered gold ground under
part of a foliated canopy; on the other the background is largely
repaired and made up with other fragments. The lining is of linen.
Late 14th eentury. Plate XXI.
About 8% in. square. 831-1901. Neg. Nos. 62701, 62702.
61. ALTAR-CLOTH of linen, trimmed on three sides with a narrow
edging of twisted and plaited thread forming a row of quatrefoils.
16th or 17th eentury.
L. 5 ft. 2% in., W. 2 ft. 8 in. 832-1901.
62. ALTAR-CLOTH of linen, with three inwoven bands of blue
linen thread near either end, each forming two rows of small squares.
16th or 17th eentury.
L. 10 ft. 9 in., W. 18% in. 833-1901.
63. SUPER-ALTAR (Mensa) of dark-red fresh-water limestone
(Purbeck marble P) : rectangular in shape, the edges drilled, possibly
for the purpose of fixing the slab in the frame. There is no trace of
a loeulus for relics.
L. 8% in., W. 6 in., thickness, 4 in. 834-1901.
64. FRONTAL of greenish-brown satin, with a close pattern of
slashes between diagonal stripes. 16th or 17th eentury.
L. 3ft. 10 in., W. 3 ft. 8 in. 835-1901.
65. ALB of plain linen, wide at the hem, having a circular opening
at the neck and straight sleeves with narrow cuffs.
L. 5 ft. 3 in., W. including sleeves 6 ft. 6 in., W. at hem, 5 ft. 1% in. 836-1901.
66. STOLE of Italian late 15th century brocade, woven in blue silk
and gilt thread : the ends are wide, with pointed corners, made
up with fragments of English embroidered velvet. The lining is of
printed linen.
L. 8 ft. 5% in., W. at ends, 8% in. 837-1901.
48
67. MANIPLE of Italian late 15th century brocade, woven in blue
silk and gilt thread: the ends are wide, with pointed corners, made
up with fragments of English embroidered velvet. The lining is of
printed linen.
L. 3 ft. 9% in., W. at ends 8% in. 838-1901.
68. CHASUBLE of Italian late 15th century dark-blue figured
velvet: woven on an orange satin ground with horizontal rows of
lobed compartments, separated by leafy and flowering stems and con-
taining radiating devices of pomegranate pattern. The orphreys are
embroidered on linen with gilt thread and coloured silks in split
and brick stitch, and laid and couched work, with figures on a diapered
gold ground under architectural canopies. On the back is Christ
on the Cross, with two angels holding chalices and the Holy Ghost
above as a dove: St. John the Evangelist with a cup : a prophet.
On the front : a prophet with scroll : St. Thomas with a carpenter’s
square: Moses with a rod and the Tables of the Law. The lining
is of printed linen with a black pattern of straight and wavy flowering
stems on a mauve ground : the same lining is used for the stole and
maniple, which were probably made up at the same date. Early
16th century.
L. 4 ft. I in., W. 2 ft. 5% in. 839-1901.

49
APPENDIX.
THE HERALDRY OF THE SYON COPE.
THE profuse heraldic ornamentation of the Syon Cope (see pp. 19 to
22), of much interest from a merely armorial-standpoint, might be
supposed to throw some light upon the vestment’s early history.
Though the present state of the cope represents the last stage in
a process of confection which has included, at unknown dates, the
repair of its outer edge, the addition of the narrow band or border,
and, possibly, also of the orphrey, there can be no doubt of the inter-
connection of these portions themselves. Of the eight different shields
upon the orphrey, all, save one, are found upon the border : Ferrers,
Geneville, Le Despenser, and Newburgh, twice; Clifford, Everard,
and Castile, once each.
The arms cover the period between the middle of the 13th century
and the second quarter of the 14th century, many being found in the
various Rolls assigned to the reigns of Henry III., Edward I. and
Edward II. The armorial form employed, i.e., roundels and lozenges,
though in use before 1300 was more prevalent during the 14th century.
Some of the shields exemplify individuals long defunct at the date
of execution of the embroidery : the shields of William Ferrers, fifth
earl of Derby (d. 1254), of the earls of Warwick of the Newburgh
house (extinct in the male line, 1242 ; and in the female line,
e. 1253), etc.
Among the most important coats are, in addition to those men-
tioned : Castile-Leon, probably for the first wife of Edward I.,
Eleanor of Castile (1 254-90) ; of the Genevilles, a branch of the French
house of Joinville, summoned as barons in the person of Geoffrey
de Geneville (1299-1306); of Le Despenser; of Mortimer, of the
branch of Chirk (summoned 1299); of Le Fleming, baron Slane
(summoned 1309), allied, by marriage, to the Genevilles, etc., etc.
A certain number of the shields remain unidentified; of others
D
50
little but their traditional identification is known; moreover,
the basis of the selection of the arms as a whole remains obscure.
As regards one shield in particular displayed upon the orphrey
(lozenges iii and xii), the identification of which with the Knights
Templars’ badge is here advanced with all reserve, it must be remarked
that its representation as such, after the events of 1308-12 culminating
in that Order’s suppression, appears most unlikely.

51
LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS.
THE following photographs of English Embroideries, which are
not in the Museum Collection, may be seen in the Library. Those
marked with a negative number (e.g., Neg. No. 12890) may also be
purchased in the Museum, provided the owner’s permission is
obtained: inquiry should be made at the Photograph Stall. The
Library numbers (e.g., A.L. 674-1895) have only been attached to
those embroideries, the photographs of which are not for sale but
can be seen in the Library :—
i. Before 1250.
Stole and Maniple made by order of Queen Aelfflaeda
for Bishop Fridestan of Winchester (905-931) found in
the tomb of St. Cuthbert. Durham Cathedral Library.
Neg. Nos. 12890, 12897, 30309.
Vestments of St. Thomas of Canterbury: 12th century.
Sens Cathedral. A.L. 674-1895.
Fragments of Vestments : 13th century. Worcester
Cathedral. Neg. Nos. 21 1 17, 21118, 21120 to 21124, 62685.
ii. 1250-1350.
Figure of a Knight : late 13th century. Stonyhurst College.
Neg. No. 18183.
Cope, at Ascoli : 13th century. Neg. Nos. 26523 to 26525.
Cope of Boniface VIII : 13th century. Anagni. A.L. 412
to 429-1887.
Chasuble and Dalmatics made up out of copes: late
13th century. Anagni. A.L. 401 to 411-1887.
Cope: early 14th century. Steeple Aston. Neg. Nos.
15668, 15669, 15824, 28065, 2943 to 2946, 15824, 28053
to 28066, 47176 to 47178, 62207 to 62211.
Daroca Cope: late 13th century. Madrid, National
Archaeological Museum. Neg. Nos. 11450, 11451,
11475. 15910-
D 2
52
Cope: 13th century. Rome, St. John Lateran. A.L. 433
to 441-1887, and 12627 to 12630-1915.
Cope: early 14th cent. Pienza Cathedral. A.L. 2387-
1907; 2300 to 2305-1912.
Cope: late 13th cent. Toledo Cathedral. A.L. 2300-
1893; 2162-1898.
Cope: early 14th century. In the possession of Lieut.-
Col. W. E. Butler-Bowden. Neg. Nos. 2938, 2939,
2940, 63206 to 63212.
Orphrey of a cope: 14th century. Lyons, Musée des
Tissus. A.L. 3798-1904.
Cope Panels : late 13th cent. In the possession of Mr. R. V.
Berkeley, of Spetchley. A.L. 91, 92, 1255-1924 and Neg.
Nos. 63200, 63201.
Border. The Annunciation, the Visitation, and the
Nativity: 13th cent. British Museum. A.L. 378-1919.
Panel from an altar frontal. SS. Laurence and Margaret :
c. 1300. In the possession of Mrs. Robert Bliss. Neg.
No. 63205.
Panel. The Annunciation: c. 1300. In the possession
of Mr. C. B. O. Clarke. A.L. 3283-1926, and Neg-
No. 63101.
Panel. SS. Margaret and Catherine of Alexandria :
c. 1300. In the possession of Mr. C. B. O. Clarke. A.L.
1231-1928, and Neg, No. 63102.
Band of embroidery: c. 1300. New York, Metropolitan
Museum of Art. Neg. No. 35471.
Corporal Case. SS. Peter and Paul: c. 1300. Oscott
College, Birmingham. A.L. 88-1924.
Panel. Christ’s charge to the Apostles and the Betrayal:
early 14th cent. British Museum. Neg. Nos. 45577,
65555-
55
1350-1450.
Jewelled Mitre associated with William of Wykeham:
e. 1400. New College, Oxford. Neg. Nos. 62688 and
62689.
Chasuble with arms of Bishop Grandison: mid. 14th
century. ‘ In the possession of the marquess of Bute.
Neg. Nos. 63213, 63214.
Chasuble with arms of Bishop Grandison (1327-69). In
the sacristy of the Matriz, Ponta Delgada, S. Michael,
Azores (see Der/on Notes and Queries, April 1908, p. 39).
A.L. 2200 and 2201-1905.
Chasuble: late 14th century. Crefeld Exhibition. A.L.
70-1889.
iv. 1450-1550.
Part of a cope : late 15th century. East Langdon, Kent.
Neg. Nos. 13648, 13649, 26596.
Cope : late 15th century. Chipping Campden. Neg.
Nos. 23122, 23123.
Frontals, upper and lower: second half of 15th century.
Chipping Campden. Neg. Nos. 231 17 to 23 120.
Frontal: late 15th century. Baunton. Neg. Nos. 21131
to 21135.
Chasuble : early 16th century : Ponta Delgada, S. Michael,
.Azores. A.L. 2198, and 2199-1905.
Cope of Abbot Whitchurch of Hayles (1464-1479) now
an altar frontal or pall. Buckland (Gloucs.). A.L. 1016
to 1025-1919, and Neg. No. 54147.
Part of a cope : late 15th cent. Stoulton (Worcs.).
A.L. 12513, 12514-1915.
Chasuble : 15th cent. Minsterworth (Gloucs.). A.L. 379
to 385-1920.
Chasubles at Stonyhurst College : 15th century and e. 1500.
Neg. Nos. 63332 to 63335.
D 3
54
Chasubles at St. Michael’s, Abergavenny; c. 1500. Neg.
Nos. 63180 to 631883.
Chasuble at St. Peter’s, Barnstaple: c. 1500. Neg. Nos.
63008, 63009.
Chasuble at Salisbury Cathedral: c. 1500. Neg. Nos.
63184, 63185.
Cope, Henry VII’s gift to Westminster Abbey, now at
Stonyhurst College: c. 1500. Neg. No. 63188.
Chasuble, Henry V II’s gift to ‘Westminster Abbey, now
at Stonyhurst College : c. 1500. Neg. Nos. 63330, 63331.
Copes at Oscott College, Birmingham; c. 1500. Neg.
Nos. 63202 and 63203.
Chasubles at Downside Abbey: c. 1500 and first half
of 16th century. Neg. Nos. 63006, 63010.
Cope: c. 1500. Kunstgewerbe Museum, Cologne. A.L.
339-1911-
Chasubles: c. 1500. In the possession of Monsieur G.
Saville Seligman. Neg. Nos. 50179, 50180.
Orphrey from back of a chasuble: c. 1500. St. Mary’s
Home, Wantage. A.L. 2440, 2441-1923.
Chasubles : 16th cent. In the possession of Monsieur G.
Saville Seligman. Neg. Nos. 50136, 50137.
Frontals made from copes: c. 1500. St. John’s College,
Oxford. A.L. 1257-1924 and Neg. Nos. 63153, 63154.
Pall: 1500. The Worshipful Company of Ironmongers.
Neg. No. 57344.
Pall: c. 1500. The Worshipful Company of Vintners.
Neg. No. 57345.
Pall: c. 1500. The Worshipful Company of Brewers.
Neg. No. 57358.
Pall: c. 1500. The Worshipful Company of Saddlers.
Neg. Nos. 27680 to 27682, 57389.
55
Pall : e. 1500. The Worshipful Company of Parish Clerks.
Neg. Nos. 57423, 57424.
Pall: e. 1500. The Worshipful Company of Merchant
Taylors. Neg. No. 57326.
Pall: e. 1500 (The Walworth Pall). The Worshipful
Company of Fishmongers. Neg. Nos. 57291.
Pall: e. 1516 (The Fayrey Pall). Dunstable. Neg. Nos.
sI748. 51749-
Pall: c. 1525. The Worshipful Company of Merchant
Taylors. Neg. NO. 57327.
Pall, made from a cope: late 15th and early 16th century.
The Clothiers’ Company, Worcester. Neg. No. 23567.
Pall: e. 1500. St. Peter’s, Sudbury. Neg. Nos. 19778,
19779, 63186.
Pall: e. 1500. St. Petrock’s, Exeter. Neg. No. 27679.
Pyx-veil: early 16th century. Hessett Church, Suffolk.
Neg. Nos. 28637, 28638.
Herse-cloth, Henry VII’s, at Cambridge University.
a. 1509. Neg. No. 63329.
Chasuble belonging to the Dowager Lady Arundell of
P-Wardour: e. 1520. Neg. Nos. 63215, 63216.

57
BIBLIOGRAPHY.
LIST OF USEFUL WORKS ON ENGLISH ECCLESIASTICAL
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BARBER, MARY.—.S'ome Drawings of Aneient Embroidery. 30 specimens by M. B.
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BOND, FRANCIS.-—Dedieations and Patron Saints of English Churehes. 252 illustra-
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BRANTING, AGNES, and LINDBLOM, ANDREAS.——-Medeltida Vdonader oeh Broderier 2'
Sr/erige. Phototype plates and process illustrations, some coloured. 2 vols.
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BRAUN, JOSEF, S. J.-Die liturgisehe Cewandung irn Oeerdent und Orient naeh Ursprung
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BRAUN, JOSEF, S. J.—Ein Bilderpluviale im Dom zu Salzburg. Zeitsehrift fiir
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BROWN, G. BALDWIN, and CHRISTIE, Mrs. ARCHIBALD.—ThC Stole and Maniple
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BROWNE, CHARLES.—Ecclesiastical Head-dress. T ransaetions of the S t. Paul ’s
Eeelesiologieal Soeiety, III, 154-164. (1890—1895.)
CHRISTIE, Mrs. A. H.—-A reconstructed embroidered cope at Anagni. Burlington
Magazine, XLVIII, 65-77. 3 plates. (1926.)
CHRISTIE, Mrs. A. H.-—An unknown English Medixval Chasuble. Burlington
Magazine, LI, 285-292. 2 plates. (1927.)
CHRISTIE, GRACE (Mrs. ARCHIBALD CHRISTIE).——ThC Tree of Jesse in Meclixval
Embroidery. Needle and Thread, 18-24, 77-82. 4 plates and 5 illustrations.
(1914.)
CLIFFORD, Hon. and Rev. WALTER I., S.J.—A Descriptive Catalogue of some
Remarkable Copes. Proeeedings of the Clifton Antiquarian Club. I, 229-
238. (I888.)
58
CLINOH, GEORGE.—Old English Churches : Their Architecture; Furniture, Decoration,
and Monuments. I41 photo-zinco types. London and New York, 1900.
2nd ed. (1903).
CRESSWELL, BEATRIX F.-Ancient Church Needlework in Devon. 3 plates.
Transactions of the Devonshire Association, XLIX, 201-209. (I917.)
D’ELBOUX, R. H.—Pre-Reformation Vestments in Catholic Churches in Mon-
mouthshire. 8 plates. Archaologicalfournal, LXXXI, 21-30. (1924.)
DOLBY, ANASTATIA.-Church Vestments : their origin, use, and ornament practically
illustrated. With coloured frontispiece and 39 plates. London (1868).
FAROY, L. DE.-La Broderie du XIG Siecle jusqu’a nos jours. 175 phototype plates
and 9 plates of process illus. Paris (1890). First Supplement: 34 plates.
Angers (1900). Second Supplement: 85 plates. Angers (I919).
GE1]ER, AGNES.—-Vad en korkéipa kan gtimma. Fornvéinnen XXIII, pp. 227-
241. 2 plates and 7 illus. (1928.)
HARTSHORNE, Rev. C. H.—-English Medieval Embroidery. Archaeological fournal,
I, 318-335 and IV, 285-301. 21 cuts. (1845-47.)
HARTSHORNE, Rev. C. H.—-English Medieval Embroidery. London (1848).
HOPE, Sir W. H. ST. JOHN.-—On the Tomb of an Archbishop recently opened in
the Cathedral Church of Canterbury. Vetusta Monumenta, VII, Part I.
5 coloured plates. Westminster (1893).
HOPE, Sir W. H. ST. JOHN.-—-Worcester Cathedral Embroideries. Archaological
journal, XX, and Proceedings, XIV. (1863.)
HOPE, Sir W. H. ST. JOHN.—The English Liturgical Colours. T rans_actions of the
St. Paul ’s Ecclesiological Society, II, 233-272. (1884-1890.)
HOPE, Sir W. H. ST. JOHN.—-
Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries .-
2 S. XII, 252 (Altar-cloth or pall, Littledean, Gloucestershire) ;
2 S. XVII, 239 (Medieval embroideries, Sutton Benger, and Hullaving-
ton, Wilts) ; - j
2 S. XVIII, 70 (Altar frontal, Baunton, Gloucestershire) ;
2 S. XXV, 39 (Altar frontals, Cotehele House, Cornwall) ;
2 S. XXVIII, 7 (Corporal case, Wymondham Church, Norfolk).
JOURDAIN, M.—-Embroideries in the possession of St. John’s College, Oxford.
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KENDRIOK, A. F.—English Embroidery. 65 (4 coloured) process illustrations.
London (1905). '
KENDRIOK, A. F.—The Steeple Aston Cope, ch. XXI, 294-298, and 3 plates, in
A History of Steeple Aston and Middle Aston, Oxfordshire, by Rev. C. C.
Brookes, Long Compton, Shipston-on-Stout (1929).
LEGG, J. W1oK11AM.—-Church Ornaments and their civil antecedents. 14 process
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59
LEGG, J. W1CKHAM.—The Black Scarf of Modern Church Dignitaries and the
Grey Almuce of Mediaeval Canons. T ransaetions of the S t. Paul ’s Eeelesio-
logieal Soeiety, III, 41-48. 2 plates and 3 illustrations. (I890-1895.)
LEGG, J. W1c1<HAM.—Notes on the History of the Liturgical Colours. T ransaetions
of the S t. Paul ’s Eeelesiologieal Soeiety, I, 95-134.
LEGG, J. WICRHAM and HOPE, Sir W. H. S1‘. JOHN, Transcribed and Edited by.-
Imrentories of C hristehureh, C anterbury, with historical and topographical
introductions and illustrative documents. Westminster (1902).
LETHABY, W. R.—Notes on some medieval Embroideries in the British Museum
and the Victoria and Albert Museum, and examples abroad. Proeeedings
of the Soeiety of Antiquaries, 2 S. XXI, 384-399. (1907.)
LINDELOM, ANDREAS.--The Cope of Skit. Burlington Magazine, XXVIII, 178-
185, 2 plates. (1916.)
LINDBLOM, ANDREAS-An English Embroidery in the Vatican. Burlington
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LITTLE, Mrs.—An Exhibition of English Embroidery. Bulletin of the Metropolitan
Museum of Art, New York, XXIV, 261-266. 4 process illustrations. (1929).
LITTLEHALES, HENRY.-A List of Parish Churehes retaining speeial mediawal
features, Class, Vestments, Plate, ete. 43 pp. 1 photo-zincotype. London
(1 889).
LONDON: Alcuin Club, Collns. XXII (Clayton, Rev. H. J.).—The ornaments of
the ministers as shown on English monumental brasses. Process illustrations.
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LONDON : Burlington Fine Arts Club.—Catalogue of an Exhibition of English Em-
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by A. F. Kendrick. 30 (10 coloured) plates. London (1905).
MACALISTER, R. A. S.-—-Eeelesiastieal Vestments : Their development and history
31 photo-zincotypes and cuts. London (1896).
MIDDLETON, Professor J. HENRY.-—Proeeedings of the Soeiety of Antrquaries, 2 S. XII,
2 52 (Altar-cloth, Lyng Church, Norfolk).
MORRIS, F.—A Mediaeval Vestment. Bulletin of the A/Ietroybolitan Museum of Art,
New York, XXII, 300-310, 3 plates and 3 process illustrations. (1927.)
MORRIS, May.—Opus Anglicanum, The Syon, Ascoli and Pienza copes. Burlington
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MORRIS, MAY.-—Opus Anglicanum at the Burlington Fine Arts Club. Burlrngton
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PHILLIPS, WALTER A1.1SON.—VeStmentS. Enqyelopeedia Britanniea, 1 1th edition,
XXVII, 1056-1064. 8 illustrations. (1911.)
POWELL, Rev. J. BADEN.—English Liturgical Colours. Transaetions of the S t. Paul ’s
Eeelesiologieal Soeiety, I, 89-94.
RAINE, JAMES.—-Saint Cuthbert : with an account of the state in which his Remains
were found upon the opening of his Tomb in Durham Cathedral, in the
year 1827. Plates. Durham (1828).
60
ROBINSON, Rev. N. F., S.S.J.E.-—Concerning Three Eucharistic Veils of Western
Use. Transactions of the S t. Paul ’s Ecclesiological Society, VI, 129-160. 4 plates
and 5 figs. (1906-1910.)
SELIGMAN, GEORGE SAVILLE.-Unidentified English Embroideries in the Museum
Cinquantenaire in Brussels. Burlington Magazine, XLI, 75 and 76, 2 plates.
(1922.)
SOUTHWELL, Canon H. B.—A Descriptive Account of some Fragments of Mediaeval
Embroidery found in Worcester Cathedral. Associated Architectural Societies’
Reports and Papers, XXXII, 1, 151-164. (Worcestershire Archaeological
Society.) (1913.)
STREET, G. E., R.A.—On Medizeval Embroidery. Transactions of the Architectural
and Archaological Society of Durham and Northumberland, I, 47-72. (I863.)
SYMONDS, M. (Mrs. G. ANTRoBUs) and PREEOE, L.—Needlework Through the Ages,
104 (8 coloured) process plates. London (1928).
TYACK, Rev. G. S.-Historic Dress of the Clergy. 33 cuts and photo-zincotypes.
London (1897).
WITTE, FR1Tz.—Uber sogenannte “ englische Stickereien ” des XV und XVI
Jahrhunderts. Zeitschrrftfiir Christliche Kunst, XXIII, pp. 213-20. (1910.)

61
INDEX.
A.
Abbey Dore (Herefordshire), Vestments from . .
Abbot Thornton, see Thornton.
Abbot Whitchurch of Hayles, see Whitehureh.
Abergavenny, Chasubles at St. Michael’
Adoration of the Magi . . . . . .
Aelffleeda, Queen . .
Agnus Dei . . .
Albornoz, Cardinal Gil de
Albs . . . . . .
Altar cloths
Altar furniture
Altar linen
Amices . . . .
Anagni, Parts of copes at
Angels . .
Annunciation, The
Apparels . . .
Arundell of Wardour, Chasublebelonging to the Dowager Lady
Ascoli, Cope at . . . . . .
Assumption of the Virgin, The
Azores, Chasubles at Ponta Delgada
Band for dorsal .
Barcelona, Part of cope at
Bardolf . . . .
Barnstaple, Chasuble at
Bassingbourne .
Bath, Chasuble from
Baunton, Frontal at
Bayeux tapestry . . . . . . . .
Beauchamp, Henry de, duke of Warwick
Beauchamp (P) . . . . . . . .
Benguiat, Stole and maniple, gift of Mr. V. . . . .
Berkeley of Spetchley, Panels belonging to Mr. R. V. . .
“ Bess of Hardwick,” see Shrewsbury, Elizabeth, Countess of.
Beverley Minster . . . . . . . . . .
Bishop Fridestan, see Fridestan.
Bishop Grandison, see Grandison.
Bishop Walter de Cantelupe, see C antelupe.
Black Death . . . . . . . .
St. Peter’s
PAGE
45-4s
27,
1x,
x (footnote)
xiv,
45-47
46.
xiv,
. . x, xi,
xiii, 18, 30, 35-42,
24, 26, 29,
xiii,
xi,
XHL 29.55.
275
22,
54
29
51
30
47
47
47
23
51
48
31
XV
55
51
36
53
26
xi
29
28
38
53
ix
34
27
32
52
23
xii
62
PAGE
Bliss, Panel from frontal belonging to Mrs. Robert 52
Blount . . . . . . . 28
Bohun of Hereford 43, 44
Bohun of Northampton . . 44
Bologna, Cope at . . . . . . . . xi
Boniface VIII, at Anagni, Cope of 51
Boteler, see Le Boteler.
Botreaux, Sir William . . . . . . 21
Bourn, Chasubles from the Abbey of 40, 41
Box for wafers . . . . 45
Breouse . . . . . . . . 29
Brewers’ Company, London, Pall of the xiv, 54
British Museum, Panels in the . . . . Xii, 17, 5 2
Brockhampton, near Havant, Cope from 26
Broderers’ Company, London xiv
Buckland (Gloucs.), Cope at . . . . 53
Burses . . . . . . xv, 23, 27, 30, 47
Buskin .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 17
Bute, Chasuble belonging to the marquess of . . . . 53
Butler-Bowdon, Cope belonging to Lieut.-Col. W. E. J. X, 52
Bygod .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 22
C.
Cambridge University, Herse cloth at . . xiv, 55
Candlesticks, Pair of altar 45
Cantelowe . . . . 29
Cantelupe, Bishop Walter de 17
Canterbury Cathedral . . . . ix
Canterbury, St. Thomas of, see S t. Thomas.
Cardinal Gil de Albornoz, see Albornoz.
Castile-Leon . . . . . . . . . . . . 19-21, 49
Catworth (Hunts), Cushions from St. Leonard’s Church xii, 25
Chalice covers or veils 43, 44, 46
Chalice cover, see Pall.
Chamberleyn . . . . 28
Champernoun, Henry or Richard . . . . . . 21
Chasubles . . . . . . . . . . xv, 17, 29, 31, 34, 37-42, 48
Chasuble, Henry VII’s, at Stonyhurst College . . . . 54
Chaworth . . . . . . . . 28
Chetwynde . . . . . . . . . . 28
Chipping Campden (Gloucs.), Cope and frontals at xv, 53
Christ and St. Mary Magdalene . . . . 18, 32
Christ blessing . . . 24, 36, 38
Christ enthroned . . . . . . . . . . 24, 29
Christ, Head of . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
-Christ, Nativity of 26, 29, 31
Circumcision, The 29
Clanvowe 22
Clare . . . . 34
Clare, Margaret de 13
65
Clarke, Panels belonging to Mr. C. B. O.
Clifford, John de . . . . . . . .
Clinton, William de, first earl of Huntingdon
Cologne, Cope at Kunstgewerbe Museum
Columbers . . . . . .
Copes at, St. Bertrand-de-Comminges . .
Copes . . . . . . . . . .
Cope, Henry VII’s, at Stonyhurst College
PAGE
52
20, 21, 49
25
54
22
x
xv, 18, 25, 35, 36
54
Coronation of the Virgin, The 18, 47
Corporal (P) 46
Corporal Case, see Burses.
Cover . . . . . . . . 46
Crefeld Exhibition, Chasuble at the . - 55
Croft-Lyons, Embroideries, gift of Lieut.-Colon 40, 42
Crucifix .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . 45
Crucifixion, The . . . . _. . xii, 17, 18, 23, 27, 29, 32-35, 39, 40, 42, 43, 48
Cushions . . . . . .. .. . . . . . . 25, 46
D.
Dacre 28
D’Arcy 27
Dalmatic . . . . . . xv, 36
Daroca Cope, the, see Madrid.
David, King . . . 29, 38, 40, 41
De Farcy Collection 29
Despenser, see Le Despenser.
Deyvill, Sir John. . . . 21
Dorsal, Band for . . . . 26
Downside Abbey, Chasubles at 54
Dunbar, Patrick, earl of . . 21
Dunstable, Pall at xiv 5 5
Durham Cathedral ix, 51
E.
East Langdon, Kent, Part of cope at . 5 3
Emblems of the Passion . . 29, 44
Emblems of the Evangelists 45
England . . . . . 21
Everard (P) . . . . 1 9
Exeter, Pall at St. Petrock’s 55
F.
“ Fayrey ” pall, The, see Dunstable.
Ferrers, William, fifth earl of Derby . 19-21, 49
Fishmongers Company, London, Pall of the xiv, 55
Fitszjohn (Hungerford) . . . . . 28
64
Fitzroger (P), Lord of Clavering
Fleming, baron Slane . . . .
Flemish work for England
Flight into Egypt .
Fragments from vestments
Fridestan, Bishop
Frontals, Altar
Genealogy of Christ
Geneville . .
God the Father . . . . . .
God the Holy Ghost as a dove . .
Grandison, Arms of Bishop . . .
Gordon-Canning, Mrs., Chasubles, gift of
Gourney (P) . . . . . . . .
Grove . . . .
Gwillim, H. W., Mr.
H.
Haigh, Embroideries, gift of the Rev. Daniel . .
Hardwick Hall, Copes at . . . . . . . . . .
Hartpury House, near Gloucester, Chasubles from . . . .
Haverstock Hill, Panel formerly belonging to St. Dominic’s Priory
Henry VII, see Chasuble, Cope and Herse cloth.
Heraldry of stole . . . . . . . .
Heraldry of Syon cope . . . . . .
Herse cloth, Henry VII’s, at Cambridge University
Hesset Church, Suffolk, Painted burse at
Hessett Church, Suffolk, Pyx-veil at
Hexham, Chasubles from
Hochon collection
Holand, duke of Exeter
Holand, earl of Kent
Hoods .
Howard
Huttolfe . .
I.
Ironmongers’ Company, London, Pall of the . .
32,54,3s,39.4O,42.45.48
57.58.4I,45
57.58,4I.4r
PAGE
27
2-I, 49
. xiii
31
I7, 4-’-
ix, 51
xv.s2.ss.s6.4s.47
23, 26
20-22, 49
54-56
21. 28. 55
27
22
45
50, 43
xvi
24
27
I_9, 49
KW. 55
30
55
39> 42
25
43
~ - 43
xv, 36
40
I’-7
54
Jesse cope
Jesse, Tree of
x, xi, 25, 30
17, 25, 29
Kingerby, Lincs, Frontal from
Knights Templars (P), Badge of the
Kynnesman (P) . . . . . .
Latymer
Le Boteler
Le Despenser
Le Strange . . . . . .
Lerida, Part of cope formerly at
Leyburne, Juliana de
Lilleshall Priory . .
Lucy . . . . . . . .
Lymesy or Lyndse . . . . . .
Lyons, Part of cope at Musée des Tissus
M.
Madrid, Cope at the National Archaeological Museum
Maniples.. .. .. .. .. .. .
Marmion . . .
Mass-vestments . . . .
Massacre of the Innocents . . . . . .
Merchant T aylors’ Company, London, Palls of the
Middleham Church, Yorks . . . .
Ministerworth, Gloucs., Chasuble at . . . . . .
Mitre of William of Wykeham at New College, Oxford
Montacute . . . . . . . . . . . .
Monthermer
Morses . . . . . .
Mortimer of Chirk, Roger, baron
Moses . . . . . . . .
Mounteney of Essex (Ernauf or Robert de)
N.
National Archaeological Museum, Madrid, see Madrid.
National Art-Collections Fund, Panel, gift of the
Nevill . . . . . . . . . . . .
Nevill, earl of Salisbury . . . . . .
Nevill, Ralph, 4th earl of Westmorland
Nevill, Lady Cecily . . . .
PAGE
19, 50
. 32
. . 28
20, 22, 32
20: 21: 349 . . 3
x1
-"-5
xvi
22
. 20
xi, 52
. x, 51
xiv, 23, 32, 48, 51
. . 22
xiv
31
xiv. 55
. 42
53
53
34-
.. . . 34
xv, 19, 20, 36
22, 49
.. 48
21, 22, 29
v, 24
43
_ 34
KW, 43
34
Nevill of Bulmer . . . . . .
Newburgh, earl of Warwick . . . . . . . .
New York, Band at Metropolitan Museum . . . .
New York, Chasuble from cope at Metropolitan Museum
Nicholas IV, Cope at Ascoli, given by Pope
- 45
I9: 212 22: 34: . . 52
. . xi
xi (footnote)
66
O.
Oakden, Band, gift of Mr. Ralph
Opus Anglicanum . . . . . .
Orphreys . . . .
Oscott College, Birmingham, Corporal case and copes at
Oxenham .. .. .. .. .. ..
Oxford, Frontals from cope at St. John’s College
Oxford, Herse-cloth . . . . . .
P.
Painted burse, see Hessett.
Pall or chalice-cover
Palls
Xv. 24. 25. 29-42. 48
PA GE.
27
ix, x
52, 54
28
37, 5 4
xiv
. 46
xiv, 42. 44. 54. 55
Palls, see Brewers’, Fishmongers’, I ronmongers’, Merchant Taylors’, Parish Clerks’,
Panels . . . . . . . . .
Pannett, Burse, bequest of Mr. Robert Elliot . .
Parish Clerks’ Company, London, Pall of the . .
Paynel .. .. .. .. ..
Percy .
Perot
Perthir . . . . . .
Pickering of Oswaldkirke
Pienza Cathedral, Cope at
Plandiura collection . . . .
Ponta Delgada, Chasubles at, see Azores.
Pope Nicholas IV, see Nicholas.
Poyntz (P) . .
Purificator
Pyx-veil, see Hessett.
Queen Aelffleeda, see Aelflarda.
Rebus of Abbot Thornton
Reformation, The . . . .
Rehoboam (P), King . . . .
Requiem Masses, Chasuble for use at
Ribbesford
Rock, Dr. . . . . . .
Rome, Cope at St. John Lateran
Rome, Cope in Vatican Library
Roos .
Roose
Rydmore . .
S addlers’ and Vintners’ Companies, also Dunstable, Exeter and S udbury.
23, 31, 46
. 27
xiv. 55
20, 21
22, 28
27
45
28
xi, 52
xi
27
xiii, 41
. xii, xiii, 45
29
42
22
23
. . xi, 52
x (footnote)
28
28
28
67
S.
PAGE
Saddlers’ Company, London, Pall of the . . Xiv, 54
St. Andrew .. .. . . .. 18, 24, 30, 53> 35, 57, 59
St. Apollonia - - - - - - 33
St. Bartholomew .. . . . 18, 50, 3% 35> 35, 56> 58
St. Bertrand-de Comminges, Copes at . . . . . . . . x
St. Catherine of Alexandria 30, 52-55, 44
St. Cecily . 52
St. Clara . . 34
St. Cuthbert . . . ix, 51
St. Edward the Confessor 25
St. Edward the Martyr 35
St. Faith . . 30
St. Fausta 32
St. Francis of Assisi . 54
St. Helen . 50, 32, 35, 35
St. James the Greater 19, 24, 58, 59
St. James the Less 50, 35, 34, 38-41
St. John the Baptist . . . 54, 55
St. John the Evangelist . . 29, 32, 38, 59, 4;, 48
St. Laurence . . . . . . 32, 33
St. Margaret (P) . . 50
St. Mary Magdalene I8, 29, 50, 35
St. Matthias 39
St. Maximin, Cope at xi
St. Michael and the drago . . . . . . . . 19
St. Paul . . . . . . \ 17, I8, 24, go, 56, 57, 41, 42
St. Peter . . . . 17, I8, 56, 41
St. Philip 18, 25, 58, 40, 41, 4;
St. Simon . . .. 18, 25, 32
St. Sitha or Zita . . 32, 54, 55
St. Stephen . . . 17, 25
St. Sylvester, Cope of . . xi (footnote)
St. Thomas . . .. 18, 24, 25, 32, 54-56, 38, 48
St. Thomas, Incredulity of . . . . . . . . 18
St. Thomas of Canterbury ix, 52, 51
St. Vincent, Chasuble of . . . . xi (footnote)
Salisbury Cathedral, Chasuble at . . 54
Salutation, The . . . 26, 51
Salzburg, Parts of cope at . . xi
Sapye . . . . . . 28
Sarnefeld of Sarnefeld 28
Scrope .. .. .. .. .. 40
Scrope, Elizabeth, Countess of Oxford . . . . 40
Seligman, Chasubles belonging to Monsieur G. Saville . 54
Sens Cathedral, Vestments at . . ix, 51
Seraphim, see Angels.
Shelton .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 21
Shrewsbury, Elizabeth, Countess of (“ Bess of Hardwick ”) . . xvi
. . . . . . 35
Smyth, Henry and Johanna
68
Smyth, Thomas and Johanna
Solomon, King
Stafford . . . . . . . .
Stafford, Lady Catherine. . . . . . . . . .
Steeple Aston (Oxon.), Frontal and dorsal from cope at
Stigmata, The . . . . . . . .
Stoles
Street, Orphreys formerly belonging to G. E., R.A.
Stonyhurst College, Vestments at . . . .
Stoulton (W orcs.), Part of cope at
Sudbury, Pall at St. Peter’s
Super-altar . .
Syon Cope, The
T.
Thanet, John of . . . . . .
Thornton, Abbot of Jerveaulx, Robert . .
Tiptoft . . . . . . . .
Toledo, Cope at . .
Tree of Jesse, see fame.
Trinity, The Blessed
Tunicle . . . . . . . .
Turner, Chasuble, gift of Major Harlowe
U.
Upsala, Cope at . .
V.
Vatican Library, Cope in the
Vere . . . . . .
Vich, Parts of cope at . . . . . .
Vintners’ Company, London, Pall of the
Virgin and Child, The . .
Virgin, Scenes from life of the . .
W
“ Walworth ” pall, The, see Fzlrbmongers’ C omybargy.
Wantage, Orphrey at St. Mary’s Home. . . . . . . .
Westminster Abbey, Vestments probably once belonging to . .
Westrnorland, Ralph Nevill, 4th earl of, see Nevill.
Whitby Abbey, Burse from . . . . . .
Whitchurch of Hayles, Abbot
William of Wykeham, see Mitre.
Wilson, Fragment of frontal, gift of Mr. T. J.
Woodstock . . . . . . . . . .
Woodstock, Chasuble from
Worcester Cathedral . . . . . . . . . .
Worcester, Pall belonging to the Clothiers’ Company
Worcestershire, Frontal from . . . . . .
PAGE
55
29
43, 44
45’ 44
Xi, 51
34
xiv, 23, 27, 47
. 25, 53
- XIV, 53, 54
55
xiv, 55
47
X, 18
x, 52
xv
41
Xi
X (footnote)
40
x
xiv, 54
I7, 29, 31
I8, 26, 31, 37
5 4
Xiii, xiv, 54
27
ss
. . 56
43, 44
. 54
1X, 17, 51
55
35

PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY
WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES
PLATE 1.

'L FRAGMENTS(MPA.\H$TMENT FROM VUORCEHER CATHEDRAL.
Middle of the 13th century. p. 17.)
1380-1901.
PLATE II.

2. BACK OF A CHASUBLE
Second half
- (P- 17-)
of the I 3th century
673-1864.
PLATE III.

2. FRONT OF A CI-IASUBLE.
Second half of the I 3th century.
(P- 17-)
673-1864.
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PLATE V.

. ST. MICHAEL
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3. DETAIL OF THE SYON CQPE. Late 15th century. (p. 18.)
1864
8;-
PLATE VI.

CHRIST APPEARING TO ST. MARY MAGDALENE IN THE GARDEN.
-)
.. (p. 18
. DETAIL OF THE SYON COPE. Late 15th century
5
83-1864.
PLATE VII.

THE DEATH OF THE VIRGIN.
DETAIL OF THE SYON COPE
-)
18
(P-
. Late 15th century.
5
PLATE VIII.
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PLATE IX.

BADGE OF THE KNIGHTS TEMPLARS (:*.

ARMS OF CASTILE-LEON, FOR ELEANOR OF CAsTILE, \VIFE OF EDWARD I.
5. DETAILS OF THE SYON CQPE. Late I§th century. (p. 18.)
83-1864.
PLATE X.

. MORSE OF THE SYON COPE
5
(p. 18.)
Late 13th century.
85 I864.
PLATE XI.

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PLATE XIII.

ST. JAMES THE GREATER.
PART OF AN ORPHREY.
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827-1903.
PLATE XIV.

ST. EDWARD THE CONFESSOR.
ST. PHILIP THE APQSTLE.
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THE VIRGIN AND CHILD.
" JESSE ” COPE. Early 14th century. (P- 25-)
8. DETAIL OF THE
PLATE XVII.

THE TREE OF JESSE.
12.. BACK OF A CHASUBLE.
The Orphrey, early 14th century. The Velvet of later date. (p. 29.)
T. 72-1922. b
PLATE XVIII.

I2. FRONT OF A CHASUBLE.
The Orphrey, early 14th century. The Velvet of later date. (p. 29.)
T. 72~19zz_
" 4" -‘-"" "2-u-‘-"'.. "“ J
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A ._ _. ._

SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF THE VIRGIN.
9. VELVET BAND. Early 14th century. (p. 26.)
Gift of Mr. Ralph Oakden.
82I8—1863.
'X EIl‘v"'Id

THE ANGEL APPEARING TO THE SHEPHERDS AND THE VISIT OF THE MAGI.
9. DETAIL OF A VELVET BAND. Early 14th century. (p. 26.)
Gift of l\-Ir. Ralph Oakden.
8zI8—I863.
‘XX EI.L‘v”Id


II. STOLE WITH ARMS OF ENGLISH FAMILIES.
Early 14th century. (p. 27.)
Gift of Monsieur G. Saville Seligman.
T. 345-1921.
THE CoRoNATIoN OF THE VIRGIN.
60. BURSE. Late 14th century. (p. 47.)
One of the Abbey Dore Vestments.
85I—I9oI.
PLATE XXI.
PLATE XXII.

' AN ANGEL AND ST. CATHERINE OF ALEXANDRIA.
I6. PART OE AN ORPHREY. Second half of the 14th century. (p. go.
I76-I889.
PLATE XXIII.
SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF THE VIRGIN.

(P- 51-)
I7. PANELS FROM ORPHREYS. Second half of the 14th century.
28-1892.
PLATE XXIV




18. BACK OF A CHASUELE.
Early
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. LAURENCE.
F
ST
23. PART OF AN ORPHREY.
-55-)
(P
irst half of Ijth century.
T. 226-1926.
PLATE XXVI .

ARMS OF HENRY DE BEAUCHAMP, DUKE OF WARWICK.
24. DETAILS OF THE ORPHREY OF A CHASUBLE.
Second quarter of the 15th century. (p. 34.)
402-1907.

ST. SITHA (ZITA P).
19. PART OF AN ORPI-IREY OF A CI-IASUBLE.
Late 14th century. (p. 32.)
1360B-I904.
AN ANGEL.
25. DETAIL OF THE ORPHREY OF A CHASUBLE.
Middle of the Ijth century. (p. 34.)
458—I9o5.
'IIAXX E1'-Wqcl
PLATE XXVIII.

0
25. ORPHREYS OF A CHASUBLE.
Middle of the I 5th century. (p. 54.)
458 & A—I9o5.
PLATE XXIX.

50. DALMATIC.
Latter part of Ijtll century. (p. 56.)
T. 49-1924.
PLATE XXX.
gm 9
.Ho@~|oNmH
..CEcoo £3 EQH
.§oU .o~

PLATE XXXI.

THE ASSUMPTIGN OF THE VIRGIN.
28. DETAIL OF AN ALTAR FRONTAL. Late Ijth century. (p. 36.)
1618-1888.
PLATE XXXII.

52. BACK OF A CHASUBLE.
The Embroidery, I 5th century.
The Damask, Chinese ;
I-/th—I8th century. (p. 57.)
Gift of Mrs. Gordon-Canning.
T. 28-1922.
PLATE XXXIII.

27. COPE.
->
I\boutI5oo. (p.55
250-1879.
PLATE XXXIV.

37. BACK OF A CHASUBLE.
Early 16th century. (p. 39.)
Gift. of Major Harlowe Turner.
24o—I9o8.
PLATE XXXV.
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57. DETAIL OF A CHASUELE.
Early 16th century. (p. 59.)
Gift of Major Harlowe Turner.
240-1908.
PLATE XXXVI
ha F
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36. BACK OF A CHASUELE.
Early 16th century.
696-1902.
(P- 59')
‘?\*\§Q.
PLATE XXXVII.

35. BACK OF A CHASUBLE.
Early 16th century. (p. 39.)
665-1896.
PLATE XXXVIII.
I:
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REBUS AND I\'lONOGRA2\-I OF ROBERT THORNTON
41. BACK OF A REQUIEM CHASIIBLE.
697-I902.
CHRIST ON THE CROSS, WITH THE VIRGIN
AND ST. JOHN.

LADY CATHERINE STAFFORD, WIFE OF RALPH, 4TH EARL OF
VUESTMORLAND, WITH HER I5 DAIIGHTERS.
47. DETAILS OF AN ALTAR FRONTAL.
Middle Of the 16th century. (p. 4;.)
55-1888.
'XIXXX 3lVTcI
PLATE XL.
. Q
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I.
5o to 68. THE ABBEY DORE VESTMENTS AND ALTAR FURNITURE.
82; to 859-1901.
NCTICE
Among other Publications relating to the Department of Textiles
8.1‘ C I———
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91 T Tapestries. By A. F. Kendrick. pp. viii and 102; 37 plates. Crown 4to. Second
edition. 1924. 3s. 6d. [By post 4s.] Cloth 45. 6d. [By post 55.]
129 T Textiles from Burying Grounds in Egypt. By A. F. Kendrick. Vol. I.
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Crown 4to. 1922. 55. [By post 5s. 5d.] Cloth 6s. 6d. [By post 65. 11cZ.]
164 T Muhammadan Textiles of the Medieval Period. pp. vii and 74; 25 plates.
Crown 4to. 1924. 3s. [By post 3s. 4d.] Cloth 4s. [By post 4s. 6d.]
174 T Early Medieval Woven Fabrics. pp. vii and 74; 25 plates. Crown 4t 0. 1925.
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Franco-British Exhibition of Textiles, 1921. pp. viii and 26; 50 collotype
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100 T The Bayeux Tapestry. pp. 34; 13 plates. Roy. 8vo. Reprinted 1921. Is.
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