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Most Excell ENT SIR, IN taking the liberty, without having in the first place asked your Excellency's permission, of de- dicating thiºecond Edition of the following Narrative of my Journey through Russia and Siberian Tartary to your Excellency, I do so, to express my grateful remembrance of the kindness and assistance which your Excellency afforded me in the heart of Siberia, as well as elsewhere. Unaccustomed to the language of adulation, and your Excellency’s desires are above it, I claim but the DEDICATION. continuation of that kindness, condescension, and good opinion which I was honoured with; and trusting to the well-known generosity of your Excellency to pardon unintentional faults, I subscribe myself, With all respect, Your Excellency’s Most obedient and Faithfully obliged Servant, JOHN DUNDAS COCHRANE. # P. R. E. F. A C E TO THE FIRST EDITION, IT has not been the kind partiality of my friends, the common apology for an uninteresting or ill written book, which has induced me to launch upon the world the following narrative of my journey to the utmost northern and eastern limits of the Russian empire; nor has it arisen from a vain idea of my being qualified for a task of the kind. No person (except the foreign nobleman under whose especial countenance the principal part of the undertaking was accomplished) has recommended such a proceeding. The publica- tion, therefore, whether of merit or demerit, is entirely prompted by the novelty of the journey, and of the mode of accomplishing it; for, even in these days of wonderful atchievements, it has ex- cited some surprise that a Captain of the British Navy should undertake a journey of many thou- sands of miles, alone, on foot, and over a country considered as next to impassable. That the jour- vi PREFACE, mey has only in part been performed on foot, is to be attributed to the liberality of the Russian Government, as well as to the hospitality of its people. Had the Emperor Alexander, however, refused the assistance I solicited, required, and obtained, I am free to declare that it is next to impossible to traverse his Empire on foot. I fairly made the experiment. For a long time I adopted that economical mode of travelling, until the pressing solicitations of every one convinced me it would be folly to decline any longer the ac- ceptance of such offers as they were pleased, from real benevolence, to make me. I frequently walked, and as frequently rode, and was thus enabled to go over a vast extent of country in a short time; and such is the kind disposition of the Russian character towards a stranger, as evinced in my case, that I feel con- vinced that, by studying their manners and cus- toms, partaking of their amusements, shewing respect to their religion, and otherwise conform- ing to their rude notions, the Empire of Russia may be traversed by a foreigner in every direc- tion, with much convenience, plenty of food, good lodgings, and even suitable raiment, without mo- lestation, and this for so inconsiderable a sum, that to name it were to challenge disbelief. I shall, therefore, only state that the expenses of PREFACE. vii my journey from Moscow to Irkutsk (by the route I went six thousand miles), certainly fell short of a guinea. Such being the case, such being the novelty of the journey, such being our ignorance of Siberia, and every thing connected with the public institu- tions of that distant part of the world, I consider it my duty, as well as my interest, to submit to the candour of an indulgent public the following pages. Effectually to disarm the critic, I need only say that I entered into the cockpit of a man-of-war at the very early age of ten : if that be not sufficient, let the fact of a journey of more than thirty thousand miles, performed under peculiar circumstances, be taken as a set-off against a want of powers better fitting an author than a traveller. I cannot, however, but entertain a hope that the narrative will be found not void of interest. It contains no alterations from the original notes, it has simply been lopped of those branches which could not interest the English reader; probably, it has not even yet been sufficiently pruned, for I fear I have still left marks of having pried into pro- ceedings which may appear not to have come within my province. When my readers, however, consi- der the peculiar situation in which I was placed for more than three years, I hope they will give me credit for the impartiality of my opinions, viii PREIFACE. and the truth of my statements. Respecting the character of the Russians, I do not feel myself competent to give what may be termed a proper description. I might be charged with a want of impartiality, and therefore prefer that my readers should form their own estimate, after a due consi- deration of the facts stated in my Narrative. The variety of conflicting testimonies has rendered hte task still more difficult: some who have written upon the subject have grossly exaggerated, while others have advanced assertions totally unfounded. Thus much, however. I will take upon myself to say, that no people have made more rapid strides towards civilization, moral and intellectual im- provements, than all classes of the Russians; and further I say, that their catalogue of failings, for they do not merit the appellation of crimes, by no means exceeds those of other countries. There is another ground on which I would fain persuade myself that these pages may be produc- tive of some good; may they not prove the means of stirring up the enterprising spirit of those who have better means and greater talents than I pre- tend to ? Should a traveller who has the pecu- niary means, the requisite talents, and the spirit and perseverance indispensable, enter upon the vast fields of Tartary, he will find ample scope for the exercise of his genius, whether he be a philo- dº PREFACE. ix sopher, a botanist, a naturalist, or an historian. For myself, I profess only to have acted in the capacity of a rough pioneer, and having cleared the way, leave the road open for the scientific, to pursue his journey when it best suits him. To the impatient mind these pages may also afford a salutary lesson. Should such a character peruse this narrative, and trace me through a long, laborious, and highly perilous journey, con- trasting the frequent miserable situations in which I have been placed, with his comparatively happy one, he will, I trust, learn “to be content”; he will also learn that there are few difficulties which patience and spirit may not overcome, and that man may fearlessly go where he will, so long as his conduct answers to his movements. I may be allowed to add, that after such a journey, I might be supposed cured of the spirit of travelling, at least in so eccentric a way; yet the supposition is far from the fact, for as I am conscious that I was never so happy as in the wilds of Tartary, so have I never been so anxious to enter on a similar field as at this moment. THE AUTHOR. P. R. E. FA C E TO THE SE COND EDIT IO N. IN presenting to the public an enlarged and corrected edition of this Work, the Author avails himself of such an opportunity to return to the public who have read, and to those reviewers who have kindly criticized it, his thanks for the pa- tronage of the former, and for the liberal indul- gence which has been extended to him by the latter. The few critics who have in any way censured the peculiar mode of travelling adopted by the Author, in the prosecution of his journey, may rest assured, that in no other manner could he have proceeded to the extremities of Asia: and as he is quite satisfied that such observations could only have arisen from mistake, he begs leave to return them also his thanks for the at- tention which they have drawn to his Work. CONTENTS TO THE FIRST V O L U M E. CI IAPTER I. Motives for undertaking the Journey—Dieppe— Rouen —Paris–La Ferté—Chalons—St. Dizier—Nancy— Metz – Sarrebruck — Landshut—Kaisers Lautern— Frankfort — Schlucten — Fuld–Erfurth—Leipsic— Dueben—Potsdam—Berlin CHAPTER II. Angermunde—Stettin—Corbem—Cosben—Romini—Za- now—Schlaws—Lauenburg–Neustadt — Dantzic— Koningsberg—Curisch Haff—Memel — Prolangen— Mittau—Riga–Dorpat—Narva–Yamberg–Kipene —St. Petersburg CHAPTER III. St. Petersburg—Tzarsko Selo—Tosna – Novgorod— Zaitzova–Yedrova—Vishney-Volotchok—Torjock— Tver—Davidova–Moscow—Vladimir—Dratchevo– Pogost–Pavlovo--Nishney Novgorod 62. xiv. CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. Page The Volga—Makarieff—Kusmodemiansk—Tchebacksar —Vutchi—Kazan–Perm — Koungour — Souksoum, Demidoff's Zavod—Achitskaya Krepost—Krasnou- finsk—Belimbaiefsky Zavod—Ekatherinebourg–Be- rezofsky—Kamishloff-Tumen--Tobolsk tº . 100 CHAPTER V. Brief History of Western Siberia, and of its Conqueror Yermak—Imalak——Ingeary — Kaminski — Kamisart Ishim — Tusnabolova ––Toukalinsk — Omsk — The Kirguise——Calmucks—Jeliezinskaya—Yamishersk— Poyanoyarsk——Ubinsk—Uvarova — Alexandrofsk—— Bouktourma—Krasnojarsk— Maloi Narymsk—Chi- nese Frontier —- The Irtish — Ustkamenegorsk—Is- mayelova — Neighbourhood of the Kolyvan—-Kal- manka—Barnaoule–Tomsk— Kioff–Krasnochinsky —Bagota—Atchinsk — Krasnojarsk - Kansko – In- gashe——Nishney Udinsk—Irkutsk. Jº . . . 142 CHAPTER VI. Irkutsk—Vercholensk—— Kirenga — Vittim — Jerbat—— The Tongousians --Olekminsk --Bistack—Yakutsk —The Lena — Aldan — The Toukoslar — Baralass — The Sartan — The Bouroulak — Tabalak — The Tostak and Dogdoa-Kabbregah, &c. rivers—The Rasoka—The Biekhall and Bludenayah—The Chou- boukalah, Galanimah, and Indigirka—Zashiversk— Brousniekah—Sordak—The Alazea—Middle Koly- ma—Malone—Nishney Kolymsk. . . . . 208 £ONTENTS. XV CHAPTER VII. Page Nishney Kolymsk—Ostrovnaya Fortress—Description of the Fair held there, with the Tchuktchi tribe— Observations on that people, and on Baron Wran- gel's Expedition & º * & & . 282 CHAPTER VIII. Departure from the Kolyma–Lapteff— Sredne Ko- lymsk — Kosatchey Ostrog — Verchne Kolymsk— The Zyzanka — Hokusolbetie and Bochiera — Bou- louktak — Kourouack — Terachtack, &c.—Kourdak — Andigezan—Intack—Omekon—Nera—Indigirka, Rivers—The Tongousi Tribe—The Koudousou and Kounounaksala Rivers—The Okota—Okotsk . . .340 CHAPTER IX. Reasons for determining to return to Europe—Descrip- tion of Okotsk—Observations on the Navigation of the Amour—Kurile Islands—St. Peter and St. Paul's —Captains Vasillieff's and Kotzebue's Expeditions . 399 NARRATIVE OF A PEDESTRIAN JOURNEY THROUGH RUSSIA AND SIBERIAN TARTARY, ETC, VOL. I. B N A R RATIVE ETC. CHAPTER I. Motives for undertaking the Journey—Dieppe—Rouen— Paris––La Ferté—Chalons—St. Dizier—Nancy—Metz— Sarrebruck—Landshut — Kaisers Lautern—Frankfort— Schlucten—Fuld–Erfurth—Leipsic—Dueben–Potsdam —Berlin. IN the month of January, 1820, I addressed a letter to the Secretary of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, offering to undertake a jour- ney into the interior of Africa, which should have for its object the ascertaining of the course and determination of the river Niger. Besides the bent of my own inclination, I had an inducement to this step in the conviction established by ex- perience, of my capability to encounter the ordi- mary difficulties of a pedestrian traveller: having, on the conclusion of the general peace, traversed on foot the beautiful countries of France, Spain B 2 4 MOTIVES FOR and Portugal—an excursion in which I certainly underwent a full proportion of fatigue and pri- vations: to say nothing of those I had for years before been in the habit of undergoing; among which I might enumerate two trips from Quebec to Lake Ontario, when in company with six hundred seamen, whose wry faces and swollen feet told me I was more of a pedestrian traveller than they. The plan I purposed to follow was nearly that adopted by Mungo Park in his first journey; in- tending to proceed alone, and requiring only to be furnished with the countenance of some consti- tuent part of the government. With this protec- tion, and such recommendations as it might pro- cure me, I would have accompanied the caravans in some servile capacity, nor hesitated even to sell myself as a slave, if that miserable alternative were necessary, to accomplish the object I had in view. - In going alone, I relied upon my own individual exertions and knowledge of man, unfettered by the frailties and misconduct of others. I was then, as now, convinced, that many people travel- ling together for the purpose of exploring a barba- rous country, have the less chance of succeeding, more especially when they go armed, and take with them presents of value. The appearance of *E. UNDERTAKING THE JOURNEY. •) numbers must naturally excite the natives to re- sistance from motives of jealousy or fear; and the danger would be greatly increased by the hope of plunder. The death of the whole party, and con- sequently the failure of the expedition, will be the probable result of such a plan. The difficulty of finding men, otherwise suitable, whose constitu- tions admit an equal degree of suffering and fatigue, is also great: and that of collecting a number of people gifted with the due portion of those virtues without which no expedition of dis- covery could succeed,—is certainly a greater. My answer from the Admiralty was unfavour- able, expressing an unwillingness to countenance the undertaking; whether from tender regard to the safety of my person, or because they consi- dered such an expedition foreign to their depart- ment, or from what other reason, I shall leave the reader to conjecture. I was not however the less convinced of the practicability of my plan: a plan which I consider was more than ordinarily feasible by me, who had been roasted in some of the worst corners of the West Indies, during a period of nearly ten years' service, without, I might say, a head-ache. Finding, however, that a young com- mander like myself was not likely to be employed afloat, much less ashore, I determined to under- take a journey, varying only the object and the 6 MOTIVES. scene to that of the unfortunate Ledyard, viz., to travel round the globe, as nearly as can be done by land, crossing from Northern Asia to America, at Behring's Streights: I also determined to per- form the journey on foot, for the best of all pos- sible reasons, that my finances allowed of no other. Having procured two years' leave of absence, I prepared to traverse the continents of Europe, Asia, and America. It is only candid to premise, that the account I am about to give of my travels can but little gra- tify the scientific reader. I confess my ignorance of natural history, nor had I been ever so skilful could I, travelling on foot, have brought away with me any specimens of animals, plants, or minerals. I had no means of carrying with me such instruments as are necessary for making geo- graphical observations of places, of the state of the air, or such other matters as are generally expected to be noted by travellers: the few instruments I did possess were taken from me, as will hereafter appear. My first and leading object was, to trace the shores of the Polar Sea along America, by land, as Captain Parry is now attempting to do by sea; and at the same time to note my observations on men and manners in the various situations and DIEPPE. 7 conditions of life; for which such a journey could not fail of presenting many opportunities. Having therefore procured such documents as were neces- sary, and filled my knapsack with such articles as I considered requisite to enable me to wander through the wilds, deserts, and forests of three quarters of the globe, I quitted London and landed at Dieppe from the packet-boat. My regret on quitting the shores of Albion was not likely to be counterbalanced by any pleasur- able reflections on reaching those of France; but having been forty hours on board the packet, with little or mothing to eat, I cheerfully submitted to the ordeal of the French searchers, at the modest price of a franc; and, with my knapsack on my back, walked on to one of those most accommo- dating of all places of entertainment, announced by the simple words of “ logement à pied ou ä cheval.” I there procured a bed and supper for the same reasonable price that I had paid for the honour done me in the official examination of my precious wallet. Being reluctant to incur the expense of five : francs, to obtain my passport on Sunday, I was content to devote the day to celebrate the eve of my birth-day, of the Carnival, and of St. Valen- tine ; having visited what may be deemed most 8 ROUEN. worthy in the pretty, clean, and well-paved town of Dieppe, the retreat for the vicious, and refuge for the unfortunate. Monday, 14th February, I commenced my route towards Paris, over a well-cultivated, but thinly peopled country, on which are a few pleasant country-seats, and neat villages, with a road far superior to that from the capital to Calais. I con- templated, as I jogged along, some of the differ- ences between France and Spain, comparing the facilities of traversing the former, to the diffi- culties and dangers attending the latter; and contrasting the servile, frivolous, and seductive Frenchman, with the noble, proud, and hospitable Don. Nor is the scenery of the two countries less opposed: the bold, romantic, fertile, and mountainous features of Spain, to the long, low, sloping declivities, and the tame, though cultiva- ted eminences of France. About a mile, however, from Rouen, the pro- spect became more interesting. To the right and in front, wound the silvery Seine, its bosom stud- ded with vessels to a degree extraordinary at this season of the year. In the distance, in front and to the left, stood the city of Rouen, with the spire of its truly venerable cathedral, and other stee- ples and public buildings, rising over various parts of the city ; while, farther to the left, a range of TOUEN. 9 hills, in a high state of cultivation, sloped down to a number of handsome chateaux and pretty cot- tages; while the lawns, covered with cottons and linens spread out to bleach, gave an air of cheer- ful and honourable industry to this portion of the Department of Lower Seine. I put up at a table-d'hôte, and, for three francs a-day, procured the opportunity of viewing the wonders of the ancient, but dirty, narrow, and crooked streeted city of Rouen. The cathedral is, of course, the first object of attraction ; but, however beautiful its Gothic design, or however excellent its modern improvements, the effect of both is lost from the peculiar unfriendliness of its situation ; surrounded on three sides, by dirty lanes, so close that the backs of some of the houses are formed by the walls of the cathedral. The interior corresponds with the exterior in point of decoration; though of its furniture little else is to be seen besides enormous piles of old chairs. I left this once so beautiful, but now disfigured edifice, to wander through the aisles of St. Owen, a fine and perfect Gothic specimen, whose grandly eleva- ted roof, and highly finished painted windows, seem capable of inspiring a religious feeling far beyond those of the cathedral. The archiepisco- pal palace, the barracks on the banks of the Seine, a large Gothic building, converted to public offices, | () T OUTEN. and the Hotel de Ville, are also deserving atten- tion. Rouen has a tolerable library, and a cabinet of paintings, including numerous pieces of the old school; their description is too much out of my sphere, to be entered upon : and were it other- wise, the indelicacy of some of them might well forbid their reception by an English public. Ascending Mount St. Catherine, I now overlook- ed' the river and great part of the surrounding country, which, even at this season of the year, presented an interesting scene, where the boule- wards, by far the cleanest part, stretch along three sides of the city to a great distance, with the ca- thedral and other churches : the beautiful wind- ings of the river, now bounded by high and chalky cliffs, and then by low meadow lands, with its nu- merous inhabited and well-cultivated islands, re- minding me of the “Chinampas, or floating gar- dens of Mexico.” Mount St. Catherine had some time back a strong fortress; though now scarcely the vestige of a wall remains. Possibly it was destroyed on purpose, as palpably unnecessary to the protection of the sacred territory. The communication across the river is formed by a heavy bridge of boats fastened together in the most unskilful man- ner, the beams of wood admitting of little or no play, so necessary during the breaking up of the PARIS. | | ice, or the freshes and swellings of the river. The great nation might obtain some useful information on floating bridges from Oporto or Seville. I returned to the city, in time to witness what little public feeling was exhibited on the informa- tion just received of the Duke de Berri's assassi- nation ; and having gallantly paid my devoirs to the statue of the Maid of Orleans, departed, con- vinced that Rouen, like other great cities, presents too much to be seen, and too little to interest. The first part of the journey from Rouen to Paris, is on the banks of the Seine, then under Mount St. Catherine, and afterwards over a consi- derably elevated ground. Cultivation is here pur- sued on an extensive scale, but the scene is unin- teresting from its sameness, and the total absence of inclosures, recalling to the English traveller the superior beauties of his own country. Passing a few dirty villages, you reach Bordeaux de Vigné a Magni, a considerable town, distant twenty-eight miles. From hence to Paris is a well-paved road, through the ancient town of Entreuil: the country here becomes more interesting and better peopled, though it has little else to denote its proximity to the second capital of Europe. I arrived late, and put up at the Hotel de Conte. I remained at Paris several days waiting for my passports, for which no less than seven signatures | 2 LA FERTÉ. and as many francs were required. I was happy enough to find a worthy friend in the person of the late Colonel Mercer, who, with his amiable daugh- ters, did every thing possible to lessen the expense, and ennui of the delay. All public amusements were, however, prohibited for a certain period, in consequence of the Duke de Berri's death, much, I suspect, to the mortification of the Parisians, who, whatever be their love to the grand monarque, appear but little attached to his august family. Paris has ever appeared to me dull, probably from my want of means to enter its vortex of dis- sipation; but as I was not wholly insensible to the wish, I resolved immediately to quit it, leaving to others the task of describing over again what has so often been described. I set out, therefore, on the 20th, with the intention of crossing the Rhine at Frankfort, taking Nancy on the road. Twenty- two miles on my route, lay the episcopal city of Meaux, whose cathedral is certainly deserving of notice, inasmuch as its exterior is completely finished, a rare case with French cathedrals. The country about it is low, and as uninteresting as the city itself. Passed the night at La Ferté sous Jouarre, a considerable town on the Marne, cele- brated for its trade in mill-stones, which are thence exported in great numbers. I was too fatigued to enjoy more of the comforts of a decent auberge, CHALONS. 13 than that of a bed, such as it was, consisting only of a blanket, with my knapsack for a pillow. Reached Port-a-Binson late the next evening, having gone through several considerable towns, among which is Chateau Thierry, beautifully situ- ated on both banks of the Marne, connected by two bridges, which are again connected by an island in the centre of the river. The country here assumes a more romantic appearance, and the people seem happier and more good-natured, with less of that forward and impertinent curiosity so characteristic of French manners. At a distance of twenty-four miles, I reached Chalons, in Cham- paigne. It was not probable I should pass this province without tapping a bottle of so celebrated a wine, which the town of Epernay furnished me for three francs and a half. Epernay with its scenery is truly romantic, as observed from an elevated situation above Cha- teau Thierry. It reminded me much of the sce- mery in the north of Portugal, near the river and bridge of Coa. Leaving Chalons, I directed my steps towards St. Dizier, over a hilly country. The road was bad, but rendered lighter by the company of some pedestrian travellers. Our route, however, was through a flourishing vineyard and a highly pic- turesque scenery, abounding with wood and water; 14 ST, DIZIER. but dirty and populous villages every where of. fended the eye, presenting a strange and para- doxical appearance, as if health and dirt were as congenial in France, as health and cleanliness are in England. I reached St. Dizier late in the evening, ex- ceedingly fatigued ; put up at a decent public- house, where were plenty of other travellers en- joying the comforts of a Saturday night, when an extra franc is spent. The latter circumstance I mention, that gentlemen travellers (I know not to what classification of the tribe Laurence Sterne would have referred me) may observe that we of humbler habits and pretensions have our red as well as black letter days. St. Dizier is an an- cient town, near the navigable part of the Marne, built in the year 951, and is the chief town in the department of the Meuse, lying in a fertile country. Grapes are here abundant, and many beautiful views may be glimpsed through thick groves and vineyards, common to this part of the country. Breakfasted at Bar-sur-Ornain, generally called Bar-le-Duc. The next place in point of rank, in the same department, is Ligny, with a collegiate church and a palace, belonging to the Counts of the same name. Passed through Void and St. Aubin, the former, apparently, a pleasant lively place, containing three thousand inhabitants; NANCY. 15 thence, through Toul, an ancient bishopric of Lorraine. The country was hilly and fertile, pro- ducing abundance of good and tolerably cheap wine. The following day I spent at Nancy, enjoy- ing the beauties of this Bath of France, and capi- tal of Lorraine. It is still a fine city, although dispossessed of its former priviliges and honours. The buildings in general are noble; the Hotel de Ville superb; the Council House, in the new square, very fine; and the regularity and cleanliness of the streets deserving of praise. The promenades are kept in good order, and every thing denotes that Nancy is a well-conducted and highly civilized city. I took the benefit of a warm bath in excel- lent style for one franc, and next morning de- parted, taking the road to Metz, and enjoyed one of those delightful walks which seldom fall to the lot even of a traveller, much less to those slaves of ease who get up but to go to rest, and live but to die. The road stretched along the beautiful banks of the Meuse, winding through numerous valleys, betwixt a succession of hills, whose summits as- Sumed the form which sailors would term “table lands.” I crossed the river by a well-built mo- dern bridge, just at the point where the Meuse falls into the Moselle. The fertility and industry of this part of France are alike apparent: each side of the river was a continuity of vineyard or | 6 NANCY. orchard, the river, winding round the forest-topt hills, branching out at intervals into several streams, and then uniting in a sort of rapid. The numerous towns and villages, every where inter- spersed, it exhibited their influence on the scene, pouring out to their healthful occupations a thick population of robust and cheerful labourers. On the last day's march I fell in with one of Napoleon's soldiers, who had had the misfortune of being for two years and a half immured in a Russian prison, if the wilds of Siberian Tartary possess any building which can merit such an ap- pellation. He protested “by his faith and respect for Napoleon;” and if I may judge from what I heard, I must suppose the expression spoke the sentiments of a large portion of the Bourbon sub- jects. His veracity was indeed questionable, de- claring that he had been seven days without food, at Witepsk; and, that out of five hundred and thirty Frenchmen confined in the same prison with himself, but twenty-three remained alive to tell the dreadful tale. It took them, he said, eight months travelling to reach their destination at Tobolsk. He was, however, a lively and even a service- able companion, for upon complaining of my feet becoming blistered, he communicated to me as a secret, a mode of cure which I have never found METZ. 17 to fail. It is simply to rub the feet at going to bed, with spirits mixed with tallow dropped from a lighted candle into the palm of the hand. On the following morning, no blisters will exist; the spirit seems to possess the healing power, the tallow serving only to keep the skin soft and pliant. The soles of the feet, the ancles, and in- steps, should be rubbed well; and even where no blisters exist, the application may be usefully made as a preventive. Salt and water is a good Substitute ; and while on this head, I would re- commend foot-travellers never to wear right and left shoes: it is bad economy, and indeed serves to cramp the feet; and such I felt to be the case as I arrived at Port-a-Marsan, a pretty town, with a good inn and better market. Thence, over a variously cultivated country, I reached the out- works of Metz, situate at the confluence of the Moselle and Seille, two rivers which are nearly carried round the city by the aid of canals, &c. Metz is a place of great importance and strength, and has frequently endured the horrors of a siege. It is the see of a bishop, whose cathe- dral, like that of Rouen, is secluded among the habitations of barbers, tailors, and cobblers; like Rouen too, it is but a dirty place. The dwellings of the Israelites are restricted to a particular part of the city: I saw a few of them, with their long VOI, I. C | 8 SARIREBRUCK. beards and black cloaks,—a distinctive dress which they are compelled to appear in. Next morning, with the sound of the bugle, and at the opening of the gates, I resumed my march, having previously sent my knapsack by the dili- gence to Frankfort. The day proved fine, which enabled me to reach Sarrebruck, five miles within the barrier of Germany. The scenery was wild and interesting. Many cultivated spots smiled through the immense dark forests ; and even on the frontier line, the romantic view combined with the thought of entering a strange country, unknowing and unknown, and ignorant of its language, had nearly overpowered me, until the sight of a meat little public-house, brought me back again to John Bull and his happy home. And , although that part of the world may not bear a comparison with England, still the picture had many points of resemblance. The country was highly cultivated, and inhabited in the manner of straggling farms; and the country inn with its tap, and red-faced landlord, cheering fire, plenty of good beer, tobacco, a smoky room, with bois- terous guests, all in high dispute on politics, and keeping up Saturday night, were no bad em- blems of England, and, as such, truly acceptable to a cold dispirited traveller. After a walk of forty miles I supped with some SARREBRUCK. 19 itinerant Jews, upon a genuine German repast, viz. milk soup, fricasseed veal, pancakes, roast joint, with a sausage, called in London, brawn. We had also our dessert, consisting of apples, pears, nuts, and good wine; and with such fare and such company, I was bound to feel happy. Previous to retiring, I could not help remarking the difference in the education of a German and a Frenchman. The frontiers are the very best places to observe it; address a German, however poor or vulgar his condition, upon any subject, and his answer will prove that he has been at least partially educated. Accost a Frenchman in like manner, and you will have for answer, “Monsieur, cela je ne puis pas vous dire,” with a shrug of the shoulders, which none but a Frenchman can ren- der equally expressive or ridiculous. Nor does the comparison stop here. The manners of the people, their diet, the economy and cleanliness of their houses, may, the modesty of their females— in a word, every thing that renders life agreeable, remind me forcibly, that I am not going to bed in France. I slept well, and after paying twenty francs for the indorsement of my passport, having neglected to bring the Prussian claw from Paris, I resumed my journey. Three leagues over an uncultivated country, I passed the remains of an old castle and C 2 20 LANDSHUT. mutilated tower, and entered upon a finer pro- spect, with the pretty little town of Homburg in the foreground, at the foot of a mountainous precipice. At Homburg, I enjoyed my pipe and supper in company with my German landlord, whose extra- ordinary deference to my opinion was calculated to make me grow in favour with myself. My next destination was to Kaisers Lautern, over eight leagues of dreary and uninteresting country. Snow fell in considerable quantities, and every thing assumed the most wintry appearance, ex- cept that the cottages, and smoke, peeping through the woods, denoted that something like man was not distant. At Landshut I attended the Pro- testant church, in spite of the very noisy and bad singing, and the remains of Romish indulgences, as keeping open shops, playing at cards, &c. Re- sumed my journey over an unpleasant wet road. The country appearing more cultivated, although barren of population, induced me to ask who tilled the lands: I could only, however, conclude that a class of people, called Labradores in Spain, come here to earn, like the Irish in our own country, a little money to enable them to go back to their homes. Kaisers Lautern is a considerable town, with se- ven thousand inhabitants. It is well built, and so RAISERS LAUTERN 2] Clean as to present somewhat of the appealance of an English Market ol Borough town Its situation ls agreeable surrounded by high and cultivated lands It is said to belong to the King of Bavaria at present at least the public house at which I put up fol the night belonged to his Majesty Mayence I believe belongs to the Duke of Hesse Cassel Frankfort is a free city and Plussia is within a stones throw so that in fact it was difficult to know undel whose colouis I was wan dering So much for the Acts of the great Vienna Congress which have placed seven flags withm the compass of two leagues Bidding adieu howevel to Kaisers Lautern and politics I passed the fel tile and picturesque plain on which it stands and ascending a long and steep hill entered on a close country covered with thick and impenetrable forests dimed at Kirchen Boland and leached Alzey late in the evening The Inhabitants were not lemarkable for civility for the landlord of the Inn I first stop ped at actually turned me out because I was no mole than a foot traveller I Judged it better to pocket the affiont and having purchased a small loaf of blead I pushed on fatigued cold and mortified till I lenched a cottage whose adjoining bain furnished my nights shelter and I leposed with perfect content upon clean hay Next morning 22 TRANKFORT. I quitted my humble dwelling, and accompanied by innumerable carts, carriages, and Jews, proceeded towards Frankfort. I arrived at Mayence, stop- ping at the Imperial Hotel, near the Cathedral, and obtained my first view of that city, which holds so high a rank in Germany. The privileges formerly appertaining to it and its Archbishop, are gone on the same errand as many others, in con- sequence of the recent arrangements of the Con- gress of Sovereigns. The Rhine here assumes a magnificent appear- ance, about the same width as the Thames at West- minster, and is crossed by a bridge formed of fifty- two boats, six hundred and thirty paces in length. Passing through a small fortified place opposite to the city, I pursued the road to Frankfort; and, after walking over an elevated and romantic coun- try (whose general scenery reminded me of the Sierras of Placentia, viewed from the high road between Badajos and Madrid, heightened as the comparison is by the striking similarity of the pro- ductions), I was at length gratified with entering the free and independent city of Frankfort. The approach is very pleasing, amidst orchards, gardens, and vineyards; and one of those small, but beautiful towns, belonging to the opulent mer- chants, is contiguous to the city. The houses are all on an extensive scale; the architecture is good, SCHLUCTEN 23 and the material generally free stone Anothel range of stately edifices now converted into ma nufactories and buildings of every imaginable size and decoration from the stately mansion to the comfortable residence down even to the meat Cot tage and the miserable cabin all are here seen promiscuously thrown together and liberty seems to wave her triumphant banner over them I put up at the Wine Bush a stately hotel of which a Mr Mohl was landlord and whose blo the had kept a tavein in England for twenty eight years but in consequence of some information lodged against him at the Allen Office he had been compelled to quit with an English wife and six children to seek an asylum In his brothers hotel Frankfort as a city is too well known and its fair too celebrated to need description here It was fol merly a fortified place but the walls have been entirely demolished and Indeed their ruins are the best protection it can have A young Livonian Baron whom I met at the ordinary gave me lettels of recommendation to the fiontiels of Sibella and I departed The month of Manch brought with it much snow and made my walk to Hanau a dreary one Next day passıng over a low flat and unintelest ing country I leached Schlucten The road was in a deadful state and my feet equally so I 24 FULD. took temporary refuge in a small inn, whence I was soon driven by the rudeness of a Sot. This fellow had even the audacity to follow me to an- other; but here his character was well known, and the opportune appearance of his wife, and her very free and dexterous use of a good cudgel, together with the remonstrance of the landlord, for a time rid me of his impertinence. Finding, however, a strong backer in his faithful dog, who would not permit any interference between man and wife, he again seated himself, and I set out once more in quest of a night's quarters. Fuld, a beautiful little city, with a handsome cathedral, some colleges, two squares, many fine public and private buildings, and well-regulated promenades, was, after Nancy, the pleasantest place I had seen on my journey. I arrived very late and much fatigued, having been induced to go so far by my companions, a wandering tailor, a regenerator of kettles, and an Italian cage-maker. Our community of fare enabled me to reduce my expenses one-half, a measure not wholly unneces- sary from the state of my purse. A miserable barn was our only shelter, which it may be sup- posed I quitted as soon as possible, for Berka, as- cending a steep hill knee-deep in snow. The task was difficult, nor did I arrive till noon, The view from the top of the hills which overhang Berka ERFUIRTH. 25 was extensive, but desolate; hill, dale, and valley covered with snow, and nothing but the steeples of churches and the smoking chimneys to relieve the scene, till, late in the evening, I reached Sax Gotha. It appeared a handsome city, with many fine edifices. - Erfurth, where I arrived at noon next day, lies in a deep valley, and is well fortified. The coun- try round it is tolerably cultivated, and better peo- pled. It is remarkable as the place where the allied sovereigns met upon a raft to adjust mea- sures for their relative aggrandizements. Here I saw, for the first time, bad black bread ; and here, . also, a sight that richly compensated the other, viz. the first ray of the sun since I had left Paris. At Weimar I first met with sledges. Hence, in disobedience to the injunctions of the police at Erfurth, to wait upon the Russian Minister Pleni- potentiary, I set forward to Naumburg. The road was as wretched as the scenery delightful; lying through fertile valleys, studded with villages in all the varieties of picturesque situation ; the dark lofty oaks, shadowing the pure surface of the snow, contrasting with the beauty of the close green fir. I could gain no reception into any house at Naum- burg but that of a poor shoemaker, which I did at the price of a glass of Schnaps; for a second glass he mended my shoes and gaiters, and pro- 26 LIEIPSIC. vided me with a truss of straw, on which I slept soundly. Next day, accompanied by a Jew, I reached Leipsic, passing through Lutzen. The misery and barrenness of the scene fairly vie with the celebrity of its name. Four trees were pointed out to me as the spot at which the Ex-Emperor commenced his flight. Lutzen formerly belonged to Saxony, but is now attached to Prussia; a sad change for the poor inhabitants, who complain bitterly of the exactions enforced by their new master. Nothing in the scene of Lutzen denotes the proximity of so celebrated a capital and court as Leipsic; which, in my judgment, will bear no comparison with Frankfort, except in size. I walked round this city the following day; but as I have nothing good to say of it, I will at least abstain from de- preciating it. Travelling over a low country, and by a bad road, I reached the large, dirty, and scattered town of Dueben, the first in Prussia Proper, and stand- ing on the banks of the Salle. My reception was uncivil, if not inhuman. My passport demanded, myself interrogated by a set of whiskered ruffians, obliged to move from one guard to another, the object of sarcasm and official tyranny, I wanted no inducement, fatigued as I was, to proceed on my journey; but even this was not permitted me. A D'UEBEN. 27 large public room full of military rubbish, and two long benches serving as chairs to an equally long table, were the place and furniture allotted me. I asked the landlord for supper; he laughed at me;—and to my demand of a bed, grinningly pointed to the floor, and refused me even a por- tion of the straw which had been brought in for the soldiers. Of all the daemons that have ever existed or been imagined in human shape, I thought the landlord of the inn the blackest. The figure of Gil Perez occurred to me, but it sunk in the comparison with the wretch then before me, for ill-mature and personal hideousness. His face half covered with a black beard and large bristly whiskers, his stature below the common ; his head sunk between his shoulders, to make room for the protuberance of his back ; his eyes buried in the ragged locks of his lank grisly hair;-add to this a club-foot, and a voice which, on every attempt of speech, was like the shrieking of a screech-owl, and you have some faint idea of this mockery of a man. For some time he strutted about wrapped up with furs, which ill concealed the ragged testi- monials of his wretched poverty, and taking im- mense quantities of snuff. The oaf at length de- liberately opened a large box, and, placing in it a pillow and some straw, wrapped a blanket round him, and committed his person to this rude but 28 POTSDAM. novel species of bed, shutting the lid half way down with a piece of wood apparently kept for that purpose. I confess, my indignation was so strongly excited, that had materials been at hand, I had the strongest inclination to mail the monster down in his den. My feelings resolved into a de- termination to run all risks for an escape; and ac- cordingly, getting out at the window in the middle of the night, I took the road to Wittenberg, where I arrived at eight o'clock in the morning, after travelling over fifteen miles of sandy common, hav- ing previously crossed the Elbe by a large wooden bridge. The river is formidable, and the city for- tified. Every step of the latter part of this jour- mey stamps on my mind the recollection of the mild character of the Saxon, compared with that of the ruffian Prussian. From Wittenberg to Treuenbrizen is a good road, but a few villages and a forest of firs constitute all that is visible, except a large dirty market-town, which, however, provided me with clean straw, and consequently with a good bed. Being now arrived in the land of turnpikes, where good roads and post-houses never fail, I started for Potsdam, distant thirty miles, and ar- rived in the early part of the evening. A flat country, sterile and almost deserted, save by the sandy pine, presents little to denote the approach BET LIN. 29 to this royal retreat. With infinite difficulty I ob- tained admittance to a house, content to purchase black bread for my supper, and the use of a bench for my bed. Of Potsdam, I can only say that the appearance is handsome, the royal edifices exten- sive, and many private ones magnificent; but so great an air of melancholy pervades the place, that it seems a fitter residence for the dead than the living;-I had the less regret at bidding it adieu. A fine avenue of trees, and a good road, con- ducted me to Berlin; nor could the fertile imagina- tion of a Humboldt discover aught else to denote the approach to the capital of his own country. For myself, I perambulated the streets nearly the whole of the night, in search of a lodging, and was at last compelled to sleep on a bench in the Pro- menade. Next morning, I waited upon his Excel- lency Mr. Rose, the British Minister, whom I found fully aware of the character of Berlin, and its in- habitants. He was so good as to send one of his coachmen with me, and through so powerful an in- terference I did at length get a comfortable unfur- nished room in the capital of Prussia. It should, however, be observed, that the Minister had offered me a room in his hotel, which my own independent plan, joined to a fear of incommoding his Excel- lency, induced me to decline. During my stay in Berlin, I had the honour of 30 BERLIN. an invitation to a grand dinner given to the mi- nister of Prussia and the foreign ambassadors, at which princes, counts, and dignitaries, down even to the pedestrian traveller, were present. The dinner and wines were considered the best and choicest; but I would have preferred a plain joint and vegetables to all their unmeaning nothings, of made dishes, puffed cakes, et cetera. His Excel- lency asked me why I did not eat ; I replied, I had seen nothing to partake of, at least nothing to satisfy a hungry traveller: his Excellency par- doned my homest boldness, and sent down a cold roast turkey and ham. Of these I had no diffi- culty in making a good dinner, and felt sensibly his Excellency’s kind consideration. His Excel- lency, the Russian ambassador, had the goodness to present me with blank passports for whatever route I might prefer: an attention on his part, be- coming the representative of his illustrious master. The young prince |Labanoff was also of the party, whom I gratefully particularize as the kind faci- litator of my journey to St. Petersburgh. Berlin is seated on the Spree, which runs through various angles of the city. Many parts of it are handsomely built, especially what may be termed the court end ; but every building, from the palace to the meanest hut, is built of brick, plastered over. In short, Berlin is all show—a BERLIN. 3] forced place, having little commerce, and less content: no smiling faces, no mediocrity, that happiest of all conditions. Berlin contains nothing but the most hardened military despots, and is, in short, a mere Court ; though it contains two hundred thousand inhabitants. I saw no modes of gaining a livelihood, or even of passing time honestly. Billiards, cards and dice, succeed to the spectacle of the parade, and the streets pre- sent nothing but sentinels on guard. Though a pedestrian, I was the first bearer of the information of the Duke de Berri's death, a full month's post being due at Berlin, owing to the immense quantity of snow. CHAPTER II. Angermunde—Stettin—Corben—Cosben—Romini—Zanow —Schlaws–Lauenburg–Neustadt — Dantzic—Konnigs- berg—Curisch Haff—Memel–Prolangen—Mittau—Riga —Dorpat—Narva—Yamberg–Kipene—St. Petersburg. THE road from Berlin to Stettin is over a bleak and uncultivated country, where neither wood nor water, and but few people, are to be met with. The first night I put up at an old town, called Bernau, which threatens every day to fall on the heads of its inhabitants. Next day I reached An- germunde, having previously passed through Neu- stadt, where I had the comfort of dining upon pork, pease-pudding, and good beer. On the road are many small villages, inhabited by wood- cutters, which afforded strong proof of the high state of perfection to which the training of dogs may be brought, each of those animals drawing a considerable load of billet-wood. In Angermunde, which is a considerable town, with a large inn, I found no improvement in the Prussian character. I had stopped in the forenoon for refreshment at a little public-house, where a STETTIN. 33 carriage had previously halted ; and, entering the tap, demanded some beer, bread, and cheese. The owner of the carriage was partaking of the same fare—good white bread and a bottle of ale. While I was enjoying, in hope, my compa- mionship in these delicacies, the landlord set down before me certainly the worst bread and dirtiest beer I had ever seen. On my requesting to be placed on the same footing, he simply replied that those already before me were far too good, and that if I did not eat them I might go without ; and, suiting the word to the sentiment, he imme- diately carried them away. Nor could anything induce the brute either to return these or sell me better, until my considerate fellow-traveller called, as for himself, for a fresh loaf and bottle of ale, and, presenting them to me, expressed his regret that I should have been so insulted in the neces- sitous condition in which I appeared. I accepted his kind offer, and then discovered that he was not a Prussian but a Pole. I departed with the intention of reaching Stet- tin that night. The road was lined with horse- patrol, ostensibly to prevent smuggling; but, in reality, to examine travellers and their papers. At five in the evening, I came in sight of the ocean, and, in the midst of much fatigue, felt re- freshed by the reflection that I was nearing a sea- VOL. I. D 34 STETTIN. port. I passed the drawbridge at half-past eight, just in time to prevent being locked out—a cir- cumstance of near concernment to me, after forty miles of heavy and dreary walking. Stettin played me the same trick as Berlin. I in vain demanded a night's lodging at three differ- ent houses, though I had previously ordered and eaten of as many suppers, for that express induce- ment. I then retreated to the wharf, cold and snowy as it was, when chance threw me in the way of a brother-tar ; with generous humanity, he roused me from the ground, on which I was lying; nor did he leave me until, at past mid- night, he had succeeded in inducing the landlord of the Copenhagen Inn, to receive me, on condi- tion that my passport should be deposited in his hands, as a security. A bed was provided me, and I soon drowned in sleep the memory of the country I was in, and the cares and fatigues I had undergone in reaching it. Next morning I arose refreshed, and, in com- pany of an homest Swede, waited upon his Excel- lency, Mr. Lutzen, the British Consul, to whom I presented a recommendatory note from Mr. Rose, who had given that very Mr. L. his situation. The reception I met with was barely decent at the time, and on the following day an invitation was trans- mitted to “the English Gentleman,” to dine, at CORBEN-COSBEN, 35 his country seat. I confess I could not but regret that no Englishman should be found better quali- fied to do justice to my countrymen. Stettin, on the left bank of the Oder, is a strong and commanding position. Many opulent and re- spectable merchants reside in it, who carry on an advantageous trade during the early part of the summer. No vessel of considerable burthen can reach the city : they are loaded thirty miles to the northward, at a place called Swinnerman, between which and Stettin is a large lake, at this season an entire sheet of ice. The town is said to contain twenty-two thousand inhabitants. It is the resi- dence, or rather the lunatic asylum, of the dowager Princess, mother of the late Duchess of York. Her Highness is well treated, having also the use of a country residence. Having refused Mr. Lutzen's hospitality, I took the road to Dantzic, over pasture land, and reached Golnow, a large scattered town, with a good inn and civil landlord. A fair had been held for the last three days, and much bustle still prevailed; after a comfortable refreshment I set forward, and reached Newgard and Pinnow the following day, amid snow, wind, and rain. Corben and Cosben, two miserable places, in a swampy situation, next brought me up, having several times missed my road, and sometimes with but little hope of re- D 2 36 18 OM IN I. covering it. One of these instances occurred, in an attempt to cross a frozen lake. Fortunately the water was not so deep as to prevent my reaching the opposite shore. I then determined to steer one course, till I made a land fall, which I was enabled to do, by keeping right before the wind. It was now three o'clock, when a person whom I met informed me I had come but sixteen miles instead of thirty :—took a fresh departure, with good advice, and at last did well. Thus much for quitting the high road to make a short cut, which a pedestrian should never do, except under a certainty of being right. A post-house called Romini, with a good civil landlord, better wife, and seven well-behaved chil- dren, made me welcome, dried my clothes, and gave me a glass of Schnaps to keep me warm; while a good supper of beef and potatoes was pre- paring for me. Cold, wet, weary, and half fa- mished, I had entered the benevolent post-house; but one short hour restored me to life and good humour, and ultimately to the enjoyment of a clean bed, made on the spot for my accommoda- tion, by filling a tick with hay, and sewing it up again. Happy, contented, though impoverished family, would to Heaven that benevolence like yours had more numerous followers among man- kind The whole property of this family could * ZANOVV. 37 not have been worth ten pounds. I had arrived in a most miserable plight, the heavy and frequent rains having dilapidated my apparel, which, even in good weather, was not calculated to last long. My cap I had lost in the icy swamp, and, in default, my head was bound up with a piece of red flannel. My trowsers were literally torn to tatters : my shoes tied to my feet, to prevent their falling off: my shirt, except a flannel one, and waistcoat, both superseded by my outer jacket. All I had retained was sound health and a con- tented mind, and I wanted no more;—for this ge- nerous family had, during the night, put my entire wardrobe to rights; and I departed the following morning with sound clothing, and reflections of heartfelt gratitude to have met with the beneficial exercise of such qualities in a quarter of the world where I had so little reason to expect them. Over an execrable road, Sandy heath, and in cheerless wintry weather, I resumed my route, and reached Zamow, on the banks of the little river Cos- lin. Here again I found a lodging in a cobbler's stall (it could scarcely be termed a room, being about nine feet square.) An old bedstead and straw mattress served for him and his grandson in one corner; in the second, was a fire-place, but no fire: in the third, a cupboard, with an empty glass and two or three broken plates: and in tº fourth, 3. * 38 SCHLAWS. board for his journeymen to work upon, when he has business to employ them, which now served for my bed-place. In this state I passed the night, charmed with the contentment of old Cris- pin, whose whole happiness seemed wrapped up in the future welfare of his grandson. I was pro- vided with some straw and a horse rug, which, however they might assimilate me to the inhabi- tants of a stable, were truly acceptable; for the might was cold, and the windows, which trans- mitted the light only through oiled paper, could not prevent the sensible intrusion of the cold air. Next morning, in spite of the obstacle of a sprained ankle, I pushed on towards Schlaws; where I was taken before the magistrates, to an- swer the offence of smoking in the streets. My ignorance of the law, and my very palpable po- verty, alone saved me from a fine. In the even- ing I reached Skolpe, over thirty-five miles of bad road. The police supplied me with quarters at the guard-house; a circumstance rendered almost necessary to me, from the unaccountable but, ma- nifest ill-will of the women towards me. The ill-fated Ledyard, had he been situated as I have often been, would have allowed exceptions to his beautiful encomium upon the benevolence of the fair sex. But Ledyard's fortune in this respect WaS bettº, and he was justified, by his own LAUENBURG-NEUSTADT. 39 experience, in espousing the cause of the whole SeX. At the guard-house I entertained the people with the history of my travels, past, present, and to come, and so greatly were they interested by the recital that they actually strove to lay me un- der a promise of not going beyond St. Petersburg. They urged upon me their own habits and feel- ings so strongly indicative of contentment, and even proposed to me to take a farm among them; but, from many reasons, I felt little disposed to adopt the suggestion. Lauenburg next day became my halting-place, after twenty-seven miles march ; the country be- coming better cultivated and more peopled than of late. I endured much from the bad condition of my shoes, which the variations of weather made alternately like sponge and horn. I repaired the mischief as well as possible with spirits and tallow, the only resource I had, for my finances were not in a condition to allow me a new pair. I reached Neustadt (eighteen miles), almost sinking under pain and fatigue. From hence the country as- sumes a very picturesque appearance : it bears, however, a desperately bad name from the bands of robbers that infest it. For myself, I was so far from apprehension on this point, that I laid my account with having my mecessities mitigated by * 40 & DANT ZIC. their means. The people, however, were civil and obliging. I now started for Dantzic, distant about thirty- three miles : at about the tenth I was overtaken by the post-coach, and bargained for a conveyance for three francs. This wretched vehicle, which does not merit the name even of a waggon, pro- fesses to accommodate nine passengers. It has three benches—the two back ones looking toward the front, the centre bench without a back: be- yond the hindermost seat is the depository of the baggage, amounting to about one-third of the whole machine. It goes upon four wheels, each moving on a strong axle-tree, and is without any sort of spring whatever. The tout ensemble is probably more like a show-cart than any thing else. Of its mortal contents, two were well-dressed young men, connected with the commerce of Dantzic: a young nobleman about to join his regiment, to perform his regulated quota of a year's service: two dashing females, setting their caps at the two merchants—(these were bound to Dantzic or Konigsberg, to open the season as the ice breaks up and ships arrive, then to return to Berlin, under the auspices of Madam B.): a ser- geant of the royal guard, having the charge of a priest, either banished or under arrest, for what sº DANT ZIC. 4 : offence I could not learn ; they both appeared decent well-behaved men. The eighth was a young Saxon Jew, from Leipsic, bound to Riga and St. Petersburg. His person was rendered re- markable by his long white soft flaxen hair, and white eyelashes and eyebrows. He seemed about twenty, not deficient in common sense, although the company were much inclined to make him their butt. In this vehicle and this society I reached Dantzic, -to my no small satisfaction : for surely no pretence of a conveyance ever yet put forth by man can be compared with a Prus- sian post-coach. Just fifteen hours were consumed in going thirty-two miles. The following morning I paid my respects to Mr. Gibson, the British consul, who received me with his well-known cordiality and friendship. I dined with him ; the intervening time being em- ployed in walking about the city as much as the afflicted state of my feet would allow. Dantzic is so well-known a place, that I shall not enter on any description of it here. It was formerly a free city. Its immense fortifications, which require an army of thirty thousand men to defend them, and the numerous sieges it has un- dergone, have given it a high and deserved repu- tation. Its present population is forty-five thou- sand, all now in allegiance to the king of Prussia, 42 DANTZIC. Though several inducements were held out to me to remain here, I stayed only long enough to view a painting in the Exchange, which is de- serving of notice, and another with a fine piece of sculpture in the Cathedral. In the first a boat is represented in the act of crossing the river Styx; and several persons, at that time residents of Dantzic, are pourtrayed as the passengers, the burgomaster and his daughter being particularly conspicuous. The story, however, says, that the natural anger of the parties thus libelled was ap- peased by the painter's consenting to add his own portrait to those already in the boat. The pic- ture was then hung up in the Exchange : but the crafty artist contriving to gain admittance during the might, added to the figures that of an angel with a boat-hook stopping the boat, presumably in consequence of the painter's being in it. The burgomaster could not disguise his vexation, though the offence was thus neutralized; but the picture was suffered to remain. The other painting, for which the Emperor Alexander is said to have offered twenty-five thousand guineas [query, roubles 2) is a represen- tation of the Last Day. It is said to be one of the most ancient as well as finest specimens ex- tamt, and is the property of the city, who cannot alienate it. The sculpture, by Michael Angelo, RONIGSBERG. 43 of the Crucifixion, is said to have been dome from the observations of real suffering, the artist having crucified and stabbed a boy expressly for that purpose. With a strong pair of English shoes, the pre- sent of my friend Mr. Marshal, I departed, passing the range of fortified hills on the right, and the port of Dantzic with its shipping on the left. I now entered on a well-cultivated country, passed the meat little town of Dnishaw, crossing the Vistula by a well-managed ferry. Thence to Marienberg, so celebrated for its castle, which I had no opportunity of seeing, as it was at that time undergoing repair. The following day I reached Elbing, over twenty miles of low culti- wated country. It appeared a pretty town, hav- ing a good export trade by vessels, which, though at fifty miles distance from the sea, come up even to the city walls. The third day I reached Konigsberg (thirty-five miles) exceedingly tired. Although a walled, it is not a fortified city; but contains sixty thousand inhabitants, and is cer- tainly the second city in Prussia. The trade is considerable, though checked by the shallowness of the navigation, which obliges vessels of bur- then to load and unload their cargoes at Pillau. The privileges granted it by the present Sove- reign have, however, in some considerable degree, lightened the inconvenience. 44 CUlt ISO 11 IIAFI'. My journey to Memel was over a cultivated country, until I got to the Curisch Haff, which I reached with some difficulty, having several times lost my way, and generally by misdirections. Af- ter a direct progress of only ten miles, an old woman (now, Ledyard, thou art right !) took pity upon me, and I passed the night comfortably un- der her roof. A good fish supper, with a drop of my landlady's cordial, so exhilarated me as to in- duce me to join a groupe of dancers, who were thus commemorating Good-Friday, as well as celebrating a marriage, which had taken place that day, between a young fisherman and the “maid of the inn.” I had the honour of waltzing with the bride, a fine buxom girl of nineteen. I hesitated a little, next morning, upon the ad- vice of an old sailor, to stop at the village till the Haff broke up, when I might get a passage to Memel, by water, free. The old tar had offered to find me in provisions, for the consideration of my assistance, in the mean time, in hauling the not. Perhaps, under circumstances, I might have acceded, if I could have relied on the security : but fearing this, I resolved to attempt the crossing of the Haff towards Krantz. I was, however, at the risk of my life, compelled to return, and only late at might reached a large fishing-village, called Jackaw. From thence, next day, along a sandy beach, with a sun which, oven in this season and CUT ISCPH HATF. 45 climate, enabled me to light my pipe by my spec- tacles, I got to a meat post-house at Nidden, situ- ated in the midst of sand-hills. A young recruit bound to Memel, had been my companion the previous day. In the evening a few fishermen, also going to Memel, offered us a passage in their boat; my companion consented on the instant, and, late and cold as it was, we embarked. The wind was fair, and we had but thirty-five miles to go. The crew consisted of two men and a woman, all three of whom laboured at the oar until midnight, when, having passed the village of Swatsash, the boat encountered the ice, at a narrow part of the Haff, and in the severity of the frost, and the extreme darkness, we became completely blocked up. In this exigency, to give more room, the young recruit and I were obliged to quit. He, poor fel- low ! had been enjoying a sound sleep, wrapped up in great-coats; to him, therefore, this reverse seemed severer than to me. For myself, I felt aware of the impropriety of resuming our journey at that hour, hungry and fatigued as we were. But what was to be done? Return I would not, although a village was within two miles of us; yet to proceed was impossible, from our ignorance of the way, and the darkness of the night. We were also quite destitute of bread, tobacco, or schnaps, and my knapsack was in charge of the 46 CURISCH HAFF. young Saxon, who had agreed to take it to Memel for me.—I felt as if completely undone. Putting, however, a good face upon it, I took off my shoes, hat, and jacket, and taking a spare flannel waistcoat and drawers, which I had fortu- nately retained in a bundle with a dry pair of worsted stockings, with this I made myself a bed, putting my feet into my hat, and pointing them towards the wind, and my shoes under my head for a pillow : then lying down and drawing my jacket over my shoulders, I slept very soundly ; although, upon awaking next morning I was both wet and stiff; but after taking some strong exer- cise backwards and forwards, I recovered the use of my limbs and my health. The recruit had not slept at all, but lay be- moaning his hard fate, which indeed was suffici- ently severe; his tight pantaloons, military boots, and tighter coat, exposing him much more than myself to the inclemency of the weather. As he was too obstinate to take my advice, or follow my example, all I could do was to pity him, and rouse him to take some violent exercise. This in some degree recovered him, and we moved on towards Memel, crossing the isthmus, and following the northern path. By seven in the morning we reached a tavern on the summit of a hill, which overlooks the city, and here I was obliged to leave MEMEL. £y. 47 him, in a state of fever. Upon my gaining the beach, it appeared doubtful whether the ferry-boat could attempt the passage, or not, there being a heavy gale, and the ice driving with great velo- city; I however persevered, and was safely landed in Memel, in time to partake of a good dinner at the Sun Inn. Memel is a highly respectable, convenient, com- mercial town. The harbour is small and secure. A good theatre, large church, public hospital, and a palace, are its principal buildings. Its trade would be much more considerable, were it not for the monopolies and privileges granted to its rival Konigsberg. Its exports and imports (the same commodities as in other Prussian towns) are mostly in the hands of Polish Jews, the merchants having little cordiality with each other. The contraband trade with Russia was formerly con- siderable, but heavy losses and heavier punish- ments seem to have subdued this spirit of specula- tion. I received great marks of kindness from its inhabitants, who even expostulated with me on my seemingly unhappy mode of life. If happiness, however, be the one pursuit in this world, it may admit of question, whether a traveller does not attain a greater portion of it than most others— certainly more than those who languish on the lap of ease, and who, in one shape or other, feel 48 POI, A N GEN. the tortures of anxiety, though surrounded by all the luxuries which affluence can procure. The Saxon having arrived with my knapsack, I departed, in company with a real friend in the person of Mr. Robson, who kindly gave me a seat in his carriage as far as our road lay together. At thirteen versts we reached the frontier, at a small Russian town called Polangen. A police office, guard-house, and custom-house are established here. Our passports were backed for a silver rou- ble, and the same sum saved our baggage from a rude and useless search. The manifest advantage to the traveller in the regulations on the frontier, no less than the presence of Cossacks, served to remind me that I had entered the Russian empire. The road to Liebau is generally through a sandy forest of pines, the trees of which were torn up by the roots or bent double, by the effects of late gales, rendering the road difficult to pass. From Liebau we continued our route with post horses harnessed in a teelega, a vehicle peculiar to Rus- sia, and which certainly may remain so, being con- structed on a model from which no other nations would desire to copy. It is sufficiently easy of de- scription, being in short just the shape of a baker's trough, with open railings for the sides. It is long enough to lounge or even lie down in, and, filled, MITTAU. 49 as it is generally, with hay, is really no very un- pleasant vehicle; the absence of springs being in some measure counterbalanced by the breadth of the axle-trees and the smallness of the wheels; which, while it lessens the chance of overturning, renders the danger, in such an event, less immi- nent. Our route to Mittau was performed agree- ably, and my friend did the honours as became one in his situation in life. The scenery was not devoid of interest, the country being well culti- vated and tolerably wooded, though stragglingly inhabited. Mittau, the ancient capital of Courland, has not much appearance of a city, though it seems to have been well built. The royal or rather impe- rial palaces are extensive ranges of building con- verted to one use, all still in an unfinished state. We were detained some time by the ice in the river Aa, and nothing but an extra rouble could have passed us across. We had then to walk three miles to reach the post-house: here my friend, whose weight did not admit of his moving with the same velocity or ease as myself, was knocked up, and we halted for the night, receiving every civility and attention. The banks of the Dwina and the city of Riga hove in sight the next day, and we reached the latter at noon. The history and description of VOI. I. E 50 RIGA. this ancient city are well known. The emperor appears much attached to it, and has honoured the British consul, a gentleman and merchant esteemed and respected by all classes, with parti- cular marks of his consideration; having even condescended to accept apartments in his beauti- ful mansion. During the late invasion by Napo- leon, the suburbs were burnt by order of the governor, on what authority I know not; but he preferred suicide to the survival of his honour, or the result of a court-martial. New edifices are now erecting on the site of the old suburbs, which bid fair to become the most beautiful part of the city. A magnificent view of the city, with the surrounding country highly cultivated, is commanded from the top of the Livonian steeple, three hundred feet high. Quitting Riga, still in company with Mr. Robson, I continued in the same easy carriage, and over the same execrable sandy road, to Woolmar; the country thinly peo- pled and less cultivated. Here, to my extreme regret, and with a deep impression of his kindness, my friend and I parted, our routes lying at right angles. I was now for the first time alone in Russia, and my reflections on the circumstance were rather of a melancholy cast. At Stackelm I overtook the St. Petersburg waggon, but its pace was too siow to induce my joining company; DOR PAT. 51 otherwise I would gladly have availed myself of it both for guidance and protection. I therefore pushed on, and soon reached the considerable village of Gulben; and next day at Udin, I first trod Russian snow, proving that I had travelled faster than the seasons, as, though winter had passed me in the middle, I found it still lingering in the northern boundary of Europe. The inhabitants hitherto appear civil and less phlegmatic than the Germans; although an ex- ception to this character had the knavery to make off with a pipe, a pound of tobacco, and the pair of shoes which I had received from Mr. Marshal. Such things once lost, there is but little hope of their recovery; I therefore made no complaint. Reached Dorpat considerably fatigued, having walked forty miles from Teylitz. Upon my ar- rival it began to rain hard. I procured with diffi- culty a lodging in the entrance of a tallow-chand- ler's shop, at least such I judged it from the ma- ture of its effluvia. Dorpat is a beautiful little city, with a univer- sity; and bids fair, for its regularity and cleanli- ness, to vie with Nancy in France. It stands upon the right bank of the Ember. Handsome edifices, with an imperial palace; wide, clean, and regular streets; a beautiful stone bridge, in a pic- turesque and fertile country, with its local situa- E 2 52 NARVA. tion between two lakes, bespeak its important rank, independently of its antiquity. On the following day I reached Nennal. I ob- served on my route none but ugly women and long-bearded men, a sterile country, and yet to me a costly one, for I was obliged to pay a silver rouble for a coffee-breakfast,--a charge I shall take care never to incur again, as not suiting the state of my finances. In spite of the approach of spring, the weather seemed to increase in cold- ness, and some snow fell; but my anxiety induced me to push for Narva, where I arrived in time to breakfast;-the road relieved only with imperial post-houses. Narva, a considerable town, and the first in the government of St. Petersburg, possesses massive remains of an ancient fortress, built by Ivan Vas- silich the Great, overhanging the perpendicular banks of the Narova. It carries too much of a military air for me to particularize. When on the point of resuming my journey, I was accosted by a black gentleman, who, as he in- formed me, was a resident and retired merchant of St. Petersburg. Understanding that I was a foreigner, he entered into many inquiries with me, of my rank, country, the object of my travels, and my reason for pursuing them on foot. To these questions I replied; and to the last simply ob- NARVA. 53 served, that I was in the habit of travelling on foot, and that indeed I could not afford to see the world in any more convenient manner. He ex- pressed his regret, that a man of my merit had not been better rewarded by fortune—and his satis- faction, at the same time, that he had it in his power to offer me a lift even to the capital of Russia, having two carriages empty ; and though he was prevented by an affair of importance from resuming the journey that day, I accepted the offer, and agreed to await his pleasure, rejoiced at the opportunity afforded me of entering the Im- perial capital in style, with less expense and still less fatigue. In the mean time, we ate and drank freely at his charge; and, not to appear backward, I ordered for myself the luxury of a proper bed-room, where I slept well. I learnt next morning that the important bu- siness which had detained my friend was neither more nor less than an intrigue with a rosy-cheeked chambermaid. This being despatched, we de- parted; he in the first, and I in the second car- riage, cach drawn by four horses. I had a spe- cific charge from him to use no ceremony in abusing the coachman, if he should slacken in his driving. I soon forgot this admonition in a sound sleep, for which, by the by, I afterwards got a severe reprimand, 54 YAMBERG,-KIPENE. We passed through Yamberg, an Imperial resi- dence in a ruinous state; when the Gulph of Fin- land, opening to our view, presented to us an im- mense mass of ice, studded with little snowy hil- locks; but without a single vessel over its whole surface. We reached Kipene the next evening, where we halted for post horses. The country had been a low overflowed desert. The weather was cold; and I was reminded, by my feelings, that we had reached about the latitude of 60°. My compa- mion, having again treated me with supper and bed, left me for the night, evidently a little net- tled at his ill success in engaging the affections of a little Russian girl who had waited on us at table. While at breakfast next morning, and just as the horses were announced, my companion asked me whether I was furnished with a passport. I replied in the affirmative. He requested to see it ; and, observing my name, inquired if I was related “ to Admiral Kakran, who was in de West Indies, at de capture of de Danish Islands in 1807?” Being informed I was the admiral's nephew, he asked, “Are you the son of Massa Kakram Jahnstone?” – “Yes, I am.”—“ You are den,” said he, “ dat lilly Massa Jonny, I know at de same time.”—It now turned out that this ST. PETERSBURG, 55 black gentleman with the two carriages and four horses each, had been my father's and my uncle's servant thirteen years before. Having talked over old matters, he remarked that he could never have recognized me, from the al- teration that time had made in my features; ob- serving that I seemed to have verified the West Indian proverb, “Like the black man's pig, very lilly, but dam old.” I acknowledged the justice of the remark, and proceeded to inquire his his- tory; but, as he did not seem inclined to be com- municative on this head, I did not press him : and we proceeded—both in the same carriage; my friend no longer considering me as a menial follower. At moon, on the 30th of April, I reached St. Petersburg, having been eighty-three days from London in performing a distance of sixteen hun- dred miles, an average of nearly twenty miles a-day. My sable friend, at parting, declined to give me his address. I suppressed my chagrin ; but felt an increased curiosity to learn the source of his wealth and his situation in life. The following morning I was relating the ad- venture at a friend's house, where Doctor Ryan (the medical attendant of the young Prince La- banoſf's family, with whom I had dimed at the house of Mr. Rose, in Berlin) was present. He 56 ST. PETERSRU ſº G. was mentioning that the young Prince, being on the road from Petersburg to Berlin, had been overtaken by winter in his summer carriage; and as the latter season was near at hand, had sent his black servant to Narva, to bring his carriages to the capital. Fortune's frolic was now explain- ed: my wealthy, dashing, overbearing, and in- triguing companion being no more than the very humble attendant of his Highness. Having once got settled in a comfortable lodg- ing, my first duty was to call upon Sir Daniel Bailey, the British consul-general, then the only representative of the British Court;-Lord Cath- cart having quitted St. Petersburg, and Mr. Casa- major deceased. In Sir Daniel I found, not only a sincere friend, but an able advocate for the plans I had in view. Through his means I transmitted a memorial to Count Nesselrode, the foreign minister, who handed it to Count Kotchoubey for the approbation of his Imperial Majesty. The memorial contained a request, that I might be permitted to pass through the Russian Empire, on my way to America, either by Kamtchatka, or Behring's Straits. I also solicited a sealed man- date from the Emperor, with an order to all governors and persons in authority, to assist me to the utmost of their power; besides an open order to the police, not to interfere with, or molest ST. PETERSBURG. 57 me. I requested, in addition, an especial letter to the Governor-General of Siberia. I had been given to understand that his Impe- rial Majesty had no objections to my proceeding upon my journey, although he expressed a belief, that, when I should be furnished with the required documents, I should flinch from my purpose. I soon, however, satisfied the Minister upon this point, by declaring I would be ready to set out at half an hour's notice. In the mean time the In- tendant-General of police gave me three audiences, examining me as to my rank and condition, my plan and its object, with the et cetera of interro- gatories, administered by persons in official situa- tions, when desirous of extracting information be- yond the avowed object. His Excellency, at length, promised me his as- sistance, and recommended me to Count Kotchou- bey, into whose hands my business had entirely fallen. The Count also gave me three audiences, repeating the same interrogatories as the Intend- ant. Finding, however, that I adhered to one simple story—stating as my object, a wish to em- ploy, improve, and amuse myself, at the same time rendering to society all the service of which I was capable—his Excellency also dismissed me with favour; and through his interference, sanc- tioned by the generosity and noblemindedness of 58 ST. PETE1&SBURG. the Emperor, I procured even more than I had expected, or demanded. His Imperial Majesty had also the consideration to ask Colonel Cathcart, who had recently arrived as successor to Mr. Casa- major, whether I wanted money, and how much, to enable me to start. I replied in the negative, expressing, very truly, my surprise and gratitude at the offer. I was, moreover, instructed, in case of such necessity, to apply to the respective go- vernors, at the places I should pass. That this unsolicited munificence, on the part of the Emperor, could only have sprung from the generous feelings of his heart, and was not adopt- ed as a façon de parler, is clear, from the fact, that his Imperial Majesty did afterwards request of Sir Charles Bagot to be informed, whether I really needed money, accompanied with an intimation, that in such case, I should be supplied from the Imperial Treasury. I think I do no wrong to any one, in believing, that no other crowned head in Europe would have given itself any concern about me, or my affairs, or have taken any notice of a stranger presenting himself, without any re- commendation of any weight, with the single ex- ception of a private letter of introduction to Sir Robert Kerr Porter. Among other intimations made to me, as from the Emperor, was one which I believe originated ST. PETERSBURG. 59 with the Directors of the Russian American Com- pany: it was in the shape of a request that I should refrain from making any inquiries respect- ing the affairs of the said Company. Coming through a public channel, I of course considered it my duty to promise compliance with the request, though it appeared to me singular that the Russian Company should have for one moment suspected me of ill-will towards them, or of being employ- ed as a spy on their affairs. It is, however, cer- tain that they had some apprehension of this sort; as they not only threw obstructions in my way to the Emperor, but after offering and promising me letters of recommendation to their different settle- ments and chancellories, refused them ; upon the plea that they were useless, from my ignorance of the Russian language. Whether Mr. Crammer, their director, from whom this unlooked-for and unhandsome treatment emanated, believed that Russian civility would be limited to those who understood the language, I know not ; if he did, every considerate person must perceive that the less I understood of the manners, language, and customs of any foreign country, the more I ac- tually stood in need of assistance in it. Were the Company conscious that their affairs required Secrecy, their harsh conduct towards me was cer- tainly the least likely mode of binding me to their 6() ST. PETERSBURG. interests, or of securing the fulfilment of any pro- mise they might oblige me to make, beyond those confined to ocular demonstration and strict neu- trality of speech. During my three weeks stay in St. Petersburg, I was most hospitably received by several respect- able British merchants, I employed the spare time in walking about the capital and viewing its wonders; and although I abandon the descrip- tion of them, as a task beyond my power, I cannot help saying, that no city I have seen, can equal it in external magnificence. Large, straight, and parallel streets, noble public buildings in every style of architecture, numerous imperial and private palaces, handsome pavements for carriages and foot-passengers, several beautiful canals run- ning round and through the city, and carrying away every offensive matter, the perfect clean- liness in every part, its immense number of churches, and lastly, its magnificent river washing the finest quays in Europe;—these are only the more striking features of St. Petersburg. The bustle in most of the principal streets, and the number of vehicles of various descriptions, add to its importance. It is, however, a little too stiffened with a military air, being every where crowded with soldiers and police-officers, and the daily parades are better attended than the workshops ST. PETERSEURG. 61 and manufactories. Nor is this tendency sur- prising when it is considered, that, in one short war, Russia has arisen from comparative insignifi- cance, to rank as the third, if not the second military power in Europe. It may indeed be ob- jected that her advances are too rapid for her age; but this point I leave for discussion to those who have not before them a journey of eight or ten thousand miles, for which I have not a single hour to make preparation. CHAPTER III. St. Petersburg—Tzarsko Selo—Tosna – Novgorod—Zait- zova —Yedrova–Vishney-Volotchok—Torjock—Tver— Davidova — Moscow—Vladimir—Dratchevo–Pogost— Pavlovo–Nishney Novgorod. I WAs now furnished with all the documents which I had deemed necessary; they consisted of the following: The customary passport, with the substitution of the minister's for the governor- general's signature; a secret letter to the gover- nor-general of Siberia; and two official documents which I shall give at length. The first of these (addressed—“To all civil go- vernors,” and signed by the minister of the inte- rior) states that—“The bearer hereof, Captain John Cochrane, of the British royal navy, pur- posing to travel through Russia on foot, is now on his departure for Kamtchatka, with the intention of penetrating from thence to America.” “Having by the command of his Imperial Ma- jesty provided this traveller with open instructions to the police of all the towns and provinces lying in his tract from Saint Petersburg to Kamtchatka, this is also to desire all the chiefs of the different ST. PETERSBURG 63 governments through which he may travel, to aid Captain Cochrane, as far as possible, to proceed on his journey without interruption, as well as to af. ford him lawful defence and protection, in case it should be desired.” The other was an “Open Order of his Imperial Majesty Alexander the First, Autocrat of all the Russias,” &c. &c. &c. signed by the same mini- ster; and stating, that “the bearer hereof, Captain John Cochrane of his Britannic Majesty's royal navy, having undertaken to travel on foot through the Russian empire, is now on his way to Kamt- chatka, intending from thence to pass over to America. The police of the towns and pro- vinces lying in his track from Saint Petersburg to Kamtchatka, are in consequence hereof, not only forbidden to obstruct Captain Cochrane in his journey, but are moreover commanded, in case of necessity, to afford him every possible assistance.” I quitted the hospitable habitation of Sir Robert Kerr Porter, on the 24th of May; and, having had a lift in the carriage with four horses of Sir Robert, I with my knapsack on my back, set out, and trotted over a partially cultivated country. A pretty avenue of birch trees lined the road, as if to accompany me as far as possible on my departure from the pre- 64 DEPARTURE FROM cincts of civilized man. Nature here got the better of a tolerably stout heart ; and, as I turn- ed round to catch a last glimpse of the capital I had left, and of the friends to whom I had bade, perhaps, a last adieu, I could not suppress my grief, and, had not my honour been com- mitted, should certainly have returned. A sigh escaped me as I ejaculated a last farewell, till, startling at the expression of my weakness, I resumed my journey with slow and melancholy steps. It was ten o’clock (for I had now a watch), and I had reached six miles. The night was beautifully clear, though rather cold from the effects of a northern breeze; while the moon was near her full. I looked at the beautiful luminary, and actually asked myself, whether I were, as had been asserted, under the bane- ful influence of that planet. Smiling that I re- ceived no reply, I then considered my projects and intentions, and the conduct I Ought to fol- low; and, sitting down at a fountain on the Poulkousky hill, I read to myself a few lessons, which the time and the occasion seemed to inspire. “Go,” said I, “ and wander with the illiterate and almost brutal savage!—go and be the companion of the ferocious beast !—go and contemplate the human being in every element ST. PETERSIBURG. 65 and climate, whether civilized or savage—of what- ever tribe, nation, or religion. Make due allow- ance for the rusticity of their manners; nor be tempted to cope with them in those taunts, insults, and rudenesses to which the nature of thy enter- prize will subject thee. Contemn those incidental circumstances which but too often surprise man- kind from their good intentions, and deprive the world of much useful and interesting information. Avoid all political and military topics, and re- member that The proper study of mankind is man. Should robbers attack thee, do not, by a foolish resistance, endanger thy life.—Man may become hardened by crimes, and persist in the practice of them, till, meeting with resistance, he will be urged to murder: but man is still a humane being, even while seeking his subsistence by rapine and plunder; and seldom, from mere wantonness, will he spill the blood of his fellow-creature. It is only by patience, perseverance, and humility, by reducing thyself to the lowest level of mankind, that thou canst expect to pass through the ordeal with either safety or satisfaction.” Something like these were my self-dictated precepts, and I pledged their performance in a draught from the cool and limpid fountain. VOI,.. [. T 66 TZARSKO SELO. In company with some carters I resumed my journey; and, depositing my knapsack, in one of their vehicles, entered into conversation as well as my scanty knowledge of German would allow me. - As we proceeded, there suddenly rose to the south-east a tremendous blaze, the cause of which it seemed difficult to conjecture. At first I ima- gined it might be, as I had often seen in England, a blazing bonfire, with a group of mirthful rustics revelling round it. But the scene grew soon too terrific to allow of so simple a solution, the flame rising to a prodigious height, and the smoke roll- ing into a beautiful dark arch on the clear sky. Immense masses of fire, and sparks at intervals, exploded and separated like a rocket. We continued to gaze as we advanced, till, on reaching the beautiful town of Tzarsko Selo, the source was, indeed, but too apparent—it was the Emperor's favorite palace, wrapt in an inextin- guishable flame. I had looked forward with hope, to enjoy the survey of so celebrated an edifice, and had actually taken a letter of recom- mendation to Prince Theodore Galitzin, one of its principal inhabitants, that I might with the more facility have my desire gratified. It was mid- night: parties of men surrounded the wasting pile. All, however, was order and regularity: TZARSKO SEI, O. 67 not a voice was heard amid the thousands of people employed. The Emperor was present, evidently impressed with extreme regret, and all appeared powerfully to partake the sentiment. His Majesty, however, continued to give frequent directions with perfect coolness. Tzarsko Selo was the palace in which the Em- peror, and his brother Constantine, had been brought up and passed their earlier years; it was hither, also, that the Emperor was accustomed to retire, when the cares of state permitted him, to lose among its ameliorating beauties the anxieties of a throne, and the toils of so great a government. It had been greatly embellished by his Majesty, and was considered one of the most beautiful re- treats in Europe. Years of time, and millions of money, I thought, must be expended, to make it what it was but yesterday morning. Being excessively fatigued, and finding my in- dividual exertions perfectly useless towards check- ing the progress of the flames, I retired to the gardens, where I passed a couple of restless hours on a bed of moss, amid herbs and flowers, whose sweet perfumes were as yet unvanquished by the fire or smoke. Some daemon seemed to hover over me, and my dreamis presented the probable inci- dents of my journey, in all the horrors which imagination could shadow forth. I arose, and re- F 2 (3S TOSNA. turned to the scene of devastation, now evidently increasing, and appearing to defy the numerous engines pouring upon it from all sides. The dome of the church fell with a tremendous crash ; and such was the immense mass of fire that fell with it, and so great the force of the rebound, that in its second descent, and assisted by the wind, it set fire to two other parts of the Palace, until then considered safe. At this critical mo- ment his Imperial Majesty gave a strong proof of steady collectedness. While the fire was raging from apartment to apartment, apparently mocking the resistance of man, the Emperor gave direction that the doors should be walled up with bricks. This was instantly done, and by such an expe- dient alone could the amber, the most valuable chamber, have been wrested from the general de- struction. Having taken breakfast with Prince Theodore, and amused myself with the infantile prattle of his children, whether in the French, English, or Ger- man languages, for they seemed anxious to shew off the proficiency they had made, I proceeded towards Tosma, where I arrived at seven in the evening. Young firs and birch border the road, which is good; though the country presents but little of interest, and seems to support but a slen- TOSNA. 69 der population, considering its proximity to the capital. I passed the night in the cottage of a farmer, resigning myself to the attacks and annoyance of such vermin as generally haunt impoverished dwellings, and was therefore proportionably pleased in the morning to pursue my journey. My route was towards Liubane, at about the ninth mile- stone from which I sat down, to smoke a segar, or pipe, as fancy might dictate; I was suddenly seized from behind, by two ruffians, whose visages were as much concealed as the oddness of their dress would permit. One of them, who held an iron bar in his hand, dragged me by the collar towards the forest, while the other, with a bayon- etted musket, pushed me on, in such a manner, as to make me move with more than ordinary cele- rity: a boy, auxiliary to these vagabonds, was stationed on the road-side to keep a look out. We had got some sixty or eighty paces into the thickest part of the forest, when I was desired to undress, and having stript off my trowsers and jacket, then my shirt, and, finally, my shoes and stockings, they proceeded to tie me to a tree. From this ceremony, and from the manner of it, I fully concluded that they intended to try the effect of a musket upon me, by firing at me as they 70 T()SNA, would at a mark. I was, however, reserved for fresh scenes: the villains, with much sang froid, seated themselves at my feet, and rifled my knap- sack and pockets, even cutting out the linings of the clothes in search of bank bills or some other valuable articles. They then compelled me to take at least a pound of black bread, and a glass of rum poured from a small flask which had been suspended from my neck. Having appropriated my trowsers, shirts, stockings and English shoot- ing shoes (the last of which I regretted most of all, as they were a present from Sir D. Bailey)—as also my spectacles, watch, compass, thermometer, and small pocket-sextant, with one hundred and sixty roubles, about seven pounds, they at length released me from the tree, and at the point of a stiletto made me swear that I would not inform against them,--such, at least, I conjectured to be their meaning, though of their language I under- stood not a word. Having received my promise, I was again treat- ed to bread and rum, and once more fastened to the tree, in which condition they finally aban- doned me. Not long after, a boy who was pass- ing heard my cries, and set me at liberty. I did not doubt he was sent by my late companions upon so considerate an errand, and felt so far grateful; though it might require something "I'OSNA. 7 | more than common charity to forgive their de- priving me of my shirt and trowsers, and leaving me almost as naked as I came into the world. To pursue my route, or return to Tzarsko Selo, would, indeed, be alike indecent and ridiculous, Lut being so, and there being no remedy, I made therefore ‘forward the order of the day; having first with the remnant of my apparel rigged my- self a l’Ecossoise, I resumed my route. I had still left me a blue jacket, a flannel waistcoat, and a spare one, which I tied round my waist in such a manner that it reached down to the knees: my empty knapsack was restored to its old place, and I trotted on with even a merry heart. Within a few miles I passed betwixt files of soldiers employed in making a new road, under the orders of General Woronoff, upon whom I waited to report the situation in which I was placed. The servant, perhaps naturally enough refused to let me pass without first acquainting his Excellency with my business : I, however, steadily persisted in my determination ; and at length, hearing the moise and scuffle of turning me out, the General appeared, and listened to my mournful tale. The good heart of his Excellency suggested the necessity of first administering me food : some clothes were then offered to me, which I declined, considering my then dress as 72 TOSNA. peculiarly, as well as nationally, becoming. The general then sent an officer with two men back to the village, to make inquiries concerning the robbery. These were, however, fruitless, and I quitted, with many thanks to his Excellency, in his own carriage, which was directed to take me the first station. I soon discovered that carriage-riding was too cold, and there- fore preferred walking, bare-footed as I was ; and on the following morning reached Tschudovo, a low and uncultivated waste, a hundred miles from St. Petersburg. Thence to Podberezie, and thence to Novgorod. I had passed on the road many populous and neat villages, and numerous tents belonging to the military workmen, which gave additional interest to a fertile and pic- turesque scenery. To the left was the river Volkhoff, on which Novgorod stands. The ap- proach is grand, and the numerous spires and steeples of the churches and convents, with their gilded and silvered casements glittering in the sun, recalled for a moment the memory of its ancient splendour. Crossing the bridge, I en- tered at two o'clock, and immediately waited on the governor. He would have provided me with clothing on the instant; I was however hungry, and requested food. The governor smiled, but NOV G O ROID. 73 assented, and I then accepted a shirt and trow- SęI’S. I was recommended by his Excellency to stop at Novgorod a few days, under the promise that he would apprehend the robbers, I told him I felt no doubt they would be discovered ; but, before that time, I should have reached the heart of Siberia. Good quarters were, mean time, pro- vided me, in the habitation of a Russian mer- chant, to whom I had a letter of recommendation from St. Petersburg. He had also the kind con- sideration to provide me a complete refit ; and though this must have been at an expense of thirty or forty roubles, he positively refused my offer of reimbursement—an offer I was enabled to make, through the delicate kindness of his Excellency the Governor Gerebzoff. This ancient and celebrated city, which in for- mer days was characterized by the proverb, “Who can resist the Gods, and the great Novgorod?” is now only the capital of a province of its own name. In its former glory, it was the metropolis of a great Republic, with four hundred thousand souls within its walls. The population is now reduced to a fortieth part. Its immense trade had been gradually declining since the cruelties of Ivan Vassilich II. and was completely annihilated by the 74 N() VGOROI). removal of the seat of government, by Peter the Great, from Moscow to the Gulf of Finland. Many handsome edifices, now in ruins, are lamentable proofs of its former grandeur, and present decay. Its Archiepiscopal Cathedral, small, but very an- cient, is filled with superstitious relics, and the ashes of several Russian Grand Dukes. The steeples of Novgorod present a monument of considerable pride, in the estimation of its in- habitants. Their distinction is in the cross, at the top, standing alone, unaccompanied by the crescent; and this is an emblem intimating, that the Tartars, in all their invasions, never suc- ceeded so far, as to enter this city. A distinc- tion which universally holds in Russia: the re- conquered cities bearing the crescent, but sur- mounted by the cross. The following day, being that of Pentecost, I attended the service in the Cathedral ; and though I understood nothing of the language, yet was I forcibly struck with the primitive appearance of the clergy, in their long beards, longer tresses, and still longer robes. They certainly carried all the appearance of devout ministers of religion. I had intended, from Novgorod, a visit to Mr. Glenny, at his establishment, eight miles distant, on the banks of the Veshora. Not finding him, however, I put up at a farm-house for the night, ZAITZ.O.W.' A. 75 having previously drunk kuass at a convent, paid a rouble for charity, and received a blessing upon entering Muscovy—not without a hope that I should find better treatment here than in Estho- nia. Next day, passing over a wild dreary waste to Zaitzova, a pleasant town, of fifteen hundred inhabitants, I put up at a civil house, if the ad- mission of both sexes, and of all ranks and dis- positions, may deserve such a term ; the variety was indeed ludicrous enough, but the conduct and conversation were not of such a nature as to merit description. The women of Muscovy hitherto appear civil and cleanly dressed, though disfigured by the abominable custom of tying their breasts as low, flat, and tight, as possible: they are not, however, quite so ludicrous as some of the creoles and slaves in the West Indies, who often suckle their children behind their backs. The men appear equally civil, obliging, and hospitable, but almost equally disguised, by their swaddling coat of cloth, or sheep-skin, coloured trowsers, and immense boots, sash round the body, a wide-rimmed hat, and long beard; a mode of dress which certainly gives them something of a ferocious appearance. On the road to Yedrova, I received two roubles as charity from the master of a post-house, from whom also I had received refreshment gratis. 76 VISHNEY-V() LOTCHOK. Knowing as I did that assistance was at hand, I declined the money, although my then distressed state might have warranted my open acceptance of it. I continued my route; and upon my arrival at the next station, I found the money in my cap. This is, indeed, real benevolence. The canals are observable to the east, and pre- sent a beautiful appearance from the neat town of Yedrova ; reached Vishney-Volotchok, late at night, a large scattered but flourishing town, formerly an Imperial village, but enfranchised by Catherine, with canals uniting the trades of the Caspian and Baltic seas. I had previously crossed the Valday hills, which are the only elevations between the two capitals. They are in the go- vernment of Novgorod, as is also the Valday lake, nine miles in circumference. It has an island in its centre, on which stands a handsome monas- tery, which, with its steeples glittering through the dark foliage of its intervening woods, forms a beautiful and interesting object. There is also a little town of the same name on its banks. The land here rises into gentle eminences, with a good deal of cultivation. Torjock was the next flourishing town which I reached, amid rain and thunder. This slight im- pediment, which broke up my travelling for the day, richly compensated the delay, by introducing TOR JOCIK. 77 me, first, to an excellent supper, gratis; and, secondly, to a beautiful and kind-hearted young widow, sister of the unfortunate Captain Golovnin, who was so inhumanly exposed in a cage at Japan. The master of the public-house had civilly re- ceived me, and I was enjoying my own medita- tions, when Mrs. Golovnin entered my room, accosting me in German, French, Russian, and lastly, in my native tongue. After the manner of her sex, she got all my secrets out of me, but one,—and in return sent me some tea, proffering, at the same time, the assistance of her purse. Had she offered me her hand and heart, I certainly should have replied otherwise than I did, for I felt very affectionately and gratefully towards so kind and lovely a woman, and who, although a widow, had yet scarcely passed her teens. Upon getting up in the morning, I discovered that my knapsack had been searched, and my Small stock of linen had been taken out and washed, but, of course, not the smallest article was missing. -- I refreshed myself at the fount (which is always at hand in a Russian cottage, with a tea-kettle or other spouted vessel hanging over it), breakfasted, and, making my congé to the household gods in the near corner of the room, departed from Tor- jock, I had not proceeded far, when I met a carriage, and immediately heard myself addressed 78 TOR JOCK. in the English language, “How do you do, Captain Cochrane?” On my acknowledging the name, the carriage stopped, and the owner, who proved to be a Mr. Hippius, and had for some time been on the look out for me, treated me very heartily to a biscuit and glass of wine. I then wished him a pleasant journey, and resumed mine, light as a lark at the unexpected pleasure of seeing English faces, and hearing my own tongue. Those who have been similarly situated, can readily con- ceive how happy I was to have met with a coun- tryman in such a manner. My way lay over a country where the Tver is a wandering stream, and where numerous hand- some seats and neat villages made their appear- ance. These, however, but too strongly reminded me of the effects of absenteeship in Ireland, being evidently in a rapid state of decay. I have no hesitation, however, in saying, that the condition of the peasantry here is far superior to that class in Ireland. In Russia, provisions are plentiful, good, and cheap; while in Ireland they are scanty, poor, and dear, the best part being exported from the latter country, whilst the local impedi. ments in the other render them not worth that expense. Good comfortable log-houses are here found in every village, immense droves of cattle are scattered over an unlimited pasture, and whole TVER. 79 forests of fuel may be obtained for a trifle. With ordinary industry and economy, the Russian pea- sant may become rich, especially those of the villages situated between the capitals, both of which might be supplied by them with butter and cheese; whereas at present not a dairy exists, the peasantry contenting themselves with the culture of as much land, and the breeding of as many cattle, as may be sufficient for their immediate wants. The women I have always found engaged in some employment; they make very good coarse woollen cloths and linens, as well as knit stockings and spin thread. The whole work of the house is thrown upon them, while they also partake the labours of the field. I will not certainly recom- mend, for the adoption of any civilized countries, the treatment they receive from their lordly mas- ters: although I have no doubt the like was the custom of England half a century ago, and may be still in the hard-working counties. Having mentioned Ireland in comparison with Russia, I may remark, that both countries may fairly vie with one another in the ancient savage virtue of hospitality. Reached Tver the following day, and put up at the habitation of a long-bearded merchant; where, after enjoying a good supper and sound sleep, I employed myself in perambulating the 8t) TVER. city. It is said to contain fifteen thousand inha- bitants, being considerably larger, or at least more populous, than Novgorod. Tver is situated at the junction of two small rivers, which empty them- selves into the noble Volga, the latter hence taking an easterly course towards Nishmey Nov- gorod, and fertilizing, in its course to the Caspian, Some of the finest provinces in the Russian em- pire. The first circumstance which attracted my no- tice upon reaching Tver, was at the gate, where an impost of three large stones is levied upon every horse that passes. These are converted to the paving of the city ; nor will the tax appear either slight or useless in a country where stones are not very abundant. Crossing the river over a fine bridge of boats, of 550 feet in length, I entered the principal part of the city. The public edifices on the banks of the Volga are handsome, and kept in good order, though the archbishop's palace resembles one of our work. houses. There is also a theatre, good barracks, and a beautiful building called the Prince's Palace, re- built by Catherine. The cathedral is of plain stone; there are, besides, thirty-four churches and three convents (one of which is said to contain the ashes of a page, whose prince deprived him of his mis- tress at the moment of their marriage, and after- TVER. 8] wards, when too late, repenting of it, and wish" ing to expiate his crime, had this convent built), —two of them are for men and one for women ; three hospitals are also established upon a liberal plan, and a bazaar, with handsome piazzas, forms the city lounge. The public gardens and walks are certainly susceptible of improvement ; but upon the whole it has a clean and regular appear- ance, and bids fair, from its trade and situation, to become an important city. The government exports immense quantities of grain from hence to St. Petersburg, and two hundred barges were now lying off the city loaded with that article, and with several millions of eggs. A young Frenchman, who had been five times wounded in the battle of Borodino | | | accom- panied me in my rambles. He prefers, it seems, to remain here teaching his native language, rather than return to his native country. He murmured a little at the facility with which his scholars ac- quired the tongue; remarking also, what I be- lieve is now generally acknowledged, the general aptitude of the Russian, whether in learning or teaching. I visited, among other things, a canal, which the last of the independent princes project- ed and began, to shorten the communication, as well as to form a winter haven for the barges and other small craft, which were, and indeed are still, VOL. I. G 82 TVER. exposed to considerable danger from the ice in the Volga. A mile only is wanting to complete this great and useful undertaking, in the junction of the Tmak and Volga. Of the earth thrown out during the excavation, has been formed at once a good road, and a strong rampart to the city. It was at Tver that I first began to compre- hend any thing of the Russian hierarchy. It ap- pears that the Greek church admits of two dis- tinct classes and degrees, which may be called monastic and lay orders: to the first of which belong metropolitans, archbishops, bishops, archi- mandrites and egoumens or abbots; to the second, protopopes or deans, priests, archdeacons, deacons, clerks, and readers. Each provincial capital has an institution to which all the sons of the clergy are admissible, to study the principles of their theology, and moral philosophy, and are afterwards turned over to the general college, to complete their education, either for a military or an eccle- siastical life. If the former be adopted, they enter the army with the rank and pay of an officer; if the latter, they are ordained deacons. The obli- gation of marriage is imposed upon all those who are below the degree of an egoumen or abbot; and should the wives die before their ordination as priests, they are for ever precluded from that order. But if the wife of a priest dies, he may DAVID OVA. 83 nevertheless become a dean, and if he afterwards enters a monastery he may arrive at the highest degree. Should, however, the theological disciple be determined upon a state of celibacy, he may at once enter the monastic order, and become pos- sessed of the power of a priest, as well as of the highest degree, but he can never afterwards be- come a disciple of Hymen. The revenue of a metropolitan does not exceed eight hundred pounds a-year, that of an archbishop six hundred, and of a bishop five-hundred,—sums apparently as small as persons of their rank can possibly sub- sist upon, even in Russia. They are, however, allowed a considerable sum which is paid to them annually, for the purposes of charity. Early on Monday, the 5th June, I quitted Tver for Moscow, passing sometimes along the banks of the Volga, at others over a rich grain country, amusing my mind alternately with the contempla- tion of the promising crops, and the thousands of loaded barges destined to bear them. Reached Davidova (thirty-two miles) at two o'clock, where I stopped to refresh, passing on my way a great number of pedestrian labourers, who, like the Gal- legos of Spain, were travelling to the southward to assist the less populous districts in getting in the harvest. An amazing quantity of timber was felled and felling on the road-side, merely for the G 2 84 MOSCOW. purpose of keeping the road in repair; nearly the whole distance from Novgorod to Moscow being a wooden causeway. At eight in the evening I con- tinued my route, reaching Klinn at midnight, and Peski at four in the morning. The country had a pleasing appearance, immense herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, with well-peopled villages, greeting the eye in every direction. I was sup- plied with plenty of black bread, milk, salt, and kuass, which I found very excellent fare. Passing through Tschornaya Graz, I entered Moscow at eight in the morning, the last stage being dis- tressingly fatiguing. Much rain fell, and I was not a little happy to reach the hospitable abode of Mr. Rowan in time to breakfast. The last thirty- two hours I warrant as bearing witness to one of my greatest pedestrian trips — the distance is 168 versts, or about 96 miles: I have, however, done the same in Portugal. The landscape on the approach to Moscow, from the Petersburg side, gives no promise of so great a metropolis, it being over a dreary and de- solate waste. Nor does the immense and ancient capital itself make its appearance until the travel- ler is within two miles of it; when, upon round- m ing a small low copse, sprinkled with a few gen- teel dwellings, hundreds of spires and steeples, domes and towers, flash upon the eye, --one vast MOSCOW. §5 assemblage of buildings rising in the foreground, and only the uncultivated Sparrow-hills upon the right. After breakfast, I waited upon his Excellency the Governor-general, and arranged my papers so as to allow the resumption of my journey at leisure, and then perambulated the city. Among others, the great gun, in whose muzzle I sat up- right, as well as the greater bell, bespoke my attention. I shall not enter upon the discussion of the many and strange stories of which this bell has been the subject; but on the assertion of the learned Dr. Clarke, that the Russian nation might as well attempt to suspend a three-decker, with all her apparel, tackling, &c. I would only ob- serve, that no nation possesses better means for performing such a feat, nor has any nation made a better use of such means than Russia; they are, I should think, qualified to remove as large or as weighty a body as any other nation in Europe. The Russians, forty years ago, transported, from the frontiers of Europe to the north-east of Asia, cannon, anchors, and other heavy articles, belong- ing to an expedition about to explore the Icy Sea, and all went over land for a distance of about Seven thousand miles. I have seen similar exer- tions in Canada, but by no means superior; and 86 MOSCOW. it must not be forgotten, that any thing can and will be done in Russia when the order is accompa- nied with those almighty words “kacknee bouid” —which truly means “any how,” but is gene- rally used in the sense of “it must be done.” It will not be supposed that I should omit to visit the Kremlin, which is still an extraordinary place. Although much of its singular appearance has been obviated in the restored buildings, yet it is still far from regular. The view from the tower of St. John is still preserved, that building having withstood the fury of the general conflagration. The new Imperial palace is wholly undeserving the name; and, only that a building is wanted for the use of the Imperial family, and that there was a vacancy upon the site on which it stands, it would call loudly for another fire-brand. Of course I con- formed to the general custom, in taking off my hat as I passed under the holy gate, and again on visiting the little chapel of Peter the Great. In every other respect than that of population, I found Moscow the same as in Clarke's time, beauti- ful and rich, grotesque and absurd, magnificent and mean. But besides these general features, there is, at present, one arising from latter circumstan- ces, the city being only half built, and the streets half finished: brick and mortar every where in- commoding the passenger. Such is the appear- MOSCOW. 87 ance of Moscow, which is yet very surprising, considering how recently it has risen from its ashes. * The former number of churches, chapels, and mosques (the forty-forties) is now reduced to less than half the number. Of public and private hospitals, there are several. The most remark- able, is the Foundling, which escaped the fire—a noble and well-endowed edifice. The averaged number of infants received, one year with another, is estimated at five or six thousand. Not more than two-thirds of these are understood to be reared. What, besides the ordinary dangers at- tendant on exposure, principally of course in the night, and in such a climate, may be the cause of this mortality, I know not, and it would be evi- dently foreign to my object to inquire. The hospitals of Count Sheremetioff and Prince Galitzin, are monuments of private beneficence and public humanity. The former has two hun- dred and fifty patients within its walls, indepen- dent of out-door pensioners. Persons of all nations, and of both sexes, and with whatever disorders they may be afflicted, are admissible for cure; and the old, and infirm remain for life. A physi- cian, surgeon, inspector, apothecary, and proper attendants, are settled on the establishments with handsome salaries and apartments. The buildings SS MOSCOW. are spacious, and elegantly modern. The wards are small, containing but eight patients; a novel, though perhaps an improving feature in a medical establishment, as evidently tending to the diminu- tion of contagion. The rooms are well ventilated. The revenue is one hundred and fifty thousand roubles, derived from the property of * eight thousand peasants, besides lands and villages. The late Count is said to have founded the hospi- tal, in consideration of the Emperor's permission to marry one of his own female slaves. The pre- sent young Count deserves much credit, for having improved the rents, and extended the privileges of the hospital.—That belonging to Prince Galit- zin is on a similar plan, although not quite so extensive. Moscow is said to stand upon more ground than any city in Europe, which may very well be true, as almost every palace or nobleman's house has a garden, and all wooden houses are detached, from the fear of fire. There are many public edifices well worthy the attention of the travel- ler, as well from the novelty of their architecture as from their destination : the magnificence of Some is, indeed, surprising, containing as they do six or seven hundred body servants during the winter season. The present population is reckoned at three hundred and fifty thousand souls: a popu- MOSCO W. S9 lation which it is supposed fluctuates sixty or seventy thousand—the present, the winter season, being the period when the gaieties are at their height. On the 30th of May I quitted Moscow, in a drosky, accompanied by Mr. Rowan, to dine with a Scotch gentleman, a Mr. Rogers, who manages the agricultural part of Count Roman- zoff's property, in the English style, which has been introduced with great success. We after- wards visited the beautiful botanical garden of Count Razumofsky, called Gorinkay, which does infinite credit to the superintendance of Dr. Fis- cher. The number of its plants, thirteen thou- sand, would alone recommend it to the botanist, as will the buildings and pleasure-grounds to that of the inferior savans. Two more patriotic noble- men than these two do not exist. From my highland companion I received a pair of leather trowsers, no small present on such a journey; and, parting with my amiable and uni- versally beloved friend Mr. Rowan, commenced my journey on foot. Passed, at two miles, the magnificent chateau of a Prince Galitzin — (the great number of these princes must excuse my specification of them); after which, amid heavy rain and thunder, I passed through several small villages to Bouncova, lying in a well-cultivated and picturesque country. I was greatly fatigued with twenty-five miles of heavy walk, and felt in- 90 V OSPUCHE. ——VLADIMIR. deed a little melancholy. After a night's rest, however, I resumed with revived spirits, and reached Vospuche. The country is interesting, and adorned with many residences belonging to the lords of the village, but which are going to ruin as fast as time and neglect can push them. To Uchekittimah is hill and dale, wood and water, all the way. I arrived at Vladimir in time to breakfast, travelling during the night to escape the heat of the sun. My way of life had evi- dently excited an interest in the peasantry, among whom I passed, several of them dividing their meals and sharing their fire and dwellings with me, with the most cordial good-will; nor did the perusal of my passports, and other Russian docu- ments, afford them the less surprise, such a fa- vour they justly considered had never before been granted, and therefore I was of course more than ordinarily favoured. I might nevertheless have considered myself fortunate, if I could have reached Vladimir with only a sound drubbing instead of a broken head, merely because I could not ask in the Russian language for some kuass and fire to light my pipe. To prevent the recurrence of this evil, on the next occasion I entered a house, sans cere- monie, and helped myself. My hostess instantly dashed the cup into the street, and with the VLADIMIR. 9 | assistance of others of her sex drove me after it at the end of broomsticks, which were besides not spared upon my back. The odds were fear- ful against me; I was therefore content to bear my punishment without resistance. At the next place, a decent chop-house in Vladimir, I in- quired of a servant who spoke French, the cha- racter of my persecutors, and learnt that most of those villages are inhabited by Raskolnicks or Schismatics, who have in a manner withdrawn or separated from the Greek Church, and admit of even less toleration than the Church of Rome. They are bound by the rules of their religion, to deny food, fire, and water, and every assistance, to all who are not of their own persuasion; and are even forbidden to hold any intercourse with them. Notwithstanding the repulsiveness of these tenets, they are said to gain many thousands of proselytes every year. They are considered good agricul- turists, and of the most sober and industrious habits, never drinking ardent spirits, nor using tobacco. Among themselves they are a kind friendly people, and excellent fathers and hus- bands; but towards the rest of the world are— what I too certainly experienced. Vladimir is a fine city on the banks of the Kliasma, the capital of a small province only, al- though formerly of all Ducal Russia. Its situation 92 DRATCH EVO. is beautiful, standing on a considerable eminence which overhangs the river, and commands a fine view of the surrounding country. There are still remaining many traces of its former greatness, such as the royal palace and gardens, a range of public offices, and several handsome churches. The day was hot, and I took advantage of it to wash and dry my linen, -no unusual thing with me on board of a man of war, where I have often been obliged not only to do this, but have been prevented from wearing shoes or stockings, on the score of economy:—alas! how times are changed. My washing being finished, I lay down under the bridge, and enjoyed a sound sleep. In the evening I resumed my route towards Nishney Novgorod. The road was a heavy one, and when I had passed seven versts, all signs of cultivation ceased. By midnight I reached Soudogda, and at two the next day, Morshok, over a low, sandy, and dreary country, covered with brush-wood, furnishing no- thing but materials for crack ships. In the even- ing, at Dratchevo, my passports were demanded by two young men, whom I somewhat hastily set down as troublesome fellows, because no entrea- ties could induce them to allow my proceeding without my passport being inspected by the ge- meral of brigade. I was, however, more than a MOU R O MI. 93 little ashamed of my pertinacity, on being sent to a comfortable lodging, followed by a hot and sub- stantial supper. In the morning I received a message to attend the general, with whom I breakfasted ; and in consideration of having been detained all the night, which was my time of travelling, I was favoured with a vehicle as far as Mourom. This is the principal rendezvous of the Mordva Tartars, bearing the name of a city, but undeserving of that of village, being a vast as- semblage of unsociable huts, with six or seven churches. Its situation on the Oka is somewhat in its favour; but, except that, and tracing the origin of its eccentric inhabitants, I believe there is nothing of interest for the scientific, much less for the ordinary traveller. Having hired a canoe, I paddled across thc ri- ver, and, following a dreary and marshy country, reached Manacovo. At a pretty little village on the banks of a lake, at midnight, I was greatly charmed with the singing of some boys and girls, accompanied by a simple instrument, called, in Russian, baalaalaika, and which is in fact only a two-stringed guitar. The effect of this rude har- mony, softened by its passage across the water, was peculiarly sweet. The beauty of the night prompted me to conti- nue my route, and I left the happy villagers for 94 POGOST.--—PAVLOVO. Pogost, twenty-four miles, where I arrived half famished and quite fatigued, not having tasted food during twenty-four hours, and a march of forty miles. I had, however, drunk abundantly, perhaps incautiously, of water. The country was level and fertile, well wooded, and somewhat pretty in its scenery. Nor is the town of Pogost by any means an ill-built one ; its annual fair had just terminated, and I could not help smiling at the remnant of saleable articles, consisting of horses, carts, wheels, saddlery, and, in short, every constituent and requisite for ordinary vehi- cles, besides an abundance of common earthen- ware; rope; with kuass and bread to refresh the sober, and barrels of spirit to stupify the drunk- ard — of which, indeed, there was no scarcity, either of men or women. Being too jaded to proceed farther, I thought myself fortunate in being able to pass the night in a cask ; nor did I think this mode of passing the might, a novel one; often, very often, have I in the fastnesses of Spain and Portugal passed the night in a similar style. Here I usurp the place of crockery, there I usurped that of wine: here in the land of liberality, there in that of non-en- tity. Arrived at Pavlovo, distant fourteen miles, over a cross road, and a beautiful as well as fertile PAVILO WO. 95 valley, studded with villages, in the midst of which the Oka makes its course. Pavlovo is placed in a bay on the left bank of the Oka, which is crowded with small vessels. It is said to contain eight thousand workmen, and is the private property of General Sheremetioff, the head of which family, a minor, is possessed of one hundred and sixty thousand peasants. The general's property is, however, a vile dirty place; but the surrounding country, and the view of it from the palace, is very fine. I had not an opportunity of viewing the im- mense iron-works here carried on, being anxious to get on towards Nishney Novgorod, which I en- tered on the evening of the next day. I had previously passed through Selo-Bogorodskoye, where I underwent a second lecture for smoking in the village. The elder of the village spared me, doubtless, however, on the same grounds as had excused me on a previous occasion. The country appeared extremely populous, and I felt highly pleased with my walk on the elevated banks of the Oka, and in witnessing its numerous establishments of tanners and dyers, with such extensive iron-works, that the neighbourhood of Pavlovo has been justly termed the Birmingham of Russia. 96 NISH NEY NOVG OR OD, The entrance to Nishney Novgorod is execrable, from the extreme filthiness of the suburbs; but descending a steep hill, I found myself in a busy and crowded market, where I procured a droshky, and proceeded to the dwelling of Baron Bode, to whom I carried a recommendatory letter. He received me kindly, placing me for board in his own house, while for lodging I preferred the open air of his garden : there, with my knapsack for a pillow, I passed the night more pleasantly than I should have dome on a bed of down, which the Baron most sincerely pressed Ine to accept. The city is large, scattered, and somewhat ill built, but evidently improving. This is evinced by the number of new buildings which have been erect- ed, in consequence of the celebrated fair called Makarieff being transplanted hither. The up- per part of the city, in which the governor, chief officers, and military reside, is of course the best. Its situation is peculiarly pleasant and airy, though surrounded by the stubborn remains of the old citadel and Tartar wall. The lower town, which may be termed the St. Giles's of the city, is occu- pied principally by persons engaged in merchan- dise. Nishney Novgorod, in contradistinction to Great Novgorod, owes its existence to the great duke Vassil, who thus named it when he caused its in- NISHNEY NOVGOROD. 97 habitants to be transplanted there from the great city before named. Its inhabitants, Russians and Tartars, amount to fifteen or sixteen thousand, though its visitors during the fair probably make its population at that time from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and fifty thousand. Among them may be seen Chinese, Persians, Cir- cassians, Armenians, Tartars, Bucharians, Jews (of course), and a specimen besides of almost every European nation. The fair, in point of value, is considered as second to none in Europe; the business done, being estimated at nearly two hundred millions of roubles. This computation may probably allow a deduction of about one half, but in any case the government derives from it a very considerable revenue. The buildings on the site for the fair are in a forward state, but will still require many years, and several millions of money, to complete. The situation is consi- dered highly eligible, and the plan is by General Betancourt, an eminent Spanish engineer. The eligibility of the new site is, notwithstand- ing, fairly questionable, as it is not entirely re- moved from the danger of an inundation by the Oka, from the river giving indications, at no dis- tant period, of shifting its channel,-in which case the consequences must be fatal. A canal has re- cently been cut so as to make this part an island, VOL. I. H 98 NISHNEY NOWGOROD. instead of a peninsula as before, a measure which, in my opinion, contributes to weaken the founda- tion, because the canal lies streamward of the fair, and consequently, at the rises or freshes of the river, it is liable to be completely overflowed. When it is recollected that the last overflowing of the Volga formed a new bank of seven feet high above the common bed of the river between the city and the fair, it is not too much to fear that it may serve to change the course of the river, whose extra rise was last year thirty-five feet. And should the new-formed bank prove a solid foundation, and resist for some years the impe- tuosity of the stream, there will then be no other outlet but the very site of the fair, as it stands nearly opposite to the place where the Oka dis- charges its waters into the Volga. Many people think, and, it appears to me, reasonably, that lower down the Volga, as at Kazan or Bokorotsk, were more eligible places for the fair, when its re- moval became indispensable, Nishney Novgorod is, also, too near St. Peters- burg, and too far from Persia, Astrachan, Bucha- ria, and China, to be conveniently reached in one season, because the latter journeys are against, while the former is with, the stream. Had Kazan or Bokorotsk been selected, the voyage would NISH NEY NOVG OROD. 99 have been more nearly equalized, both in time and expense. I was shewn over the fair by a Spanish gentle- man, now an officer of engineers of Russia, and with whose family in Granada in Spain, I had lately resided. He is married to the daughter of General Betancourt, chief of his department. I dined with him and two other Spanish colonels, as well as a young Muscovy Englishman, the whole party even here, in the very heart of Russia, talking only the Spanish language. His Excellency the Governor received me with customary attention ; but I was not so fortunate as to meet his amiable lady, an Englishwoman. The truth was, her servant would not admit me, judging, no doubt, from the length of my beard and shabbiness of my dress, that I must be a Jew, or something worse. Thus denied, I embarked, in a freak of fancy, on board a lighter bound to Kazan, the better to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Volga ; having previously, and only just in time, been supplied with provisions, and a pair of English shooting-shoes (my constant godsends), through the kindness of my excellent host Baron Bode. H 2 CHAPTER IV. The Volga–Makarieff— Kusmodemiansk–Tchebacksar--- Vutchi–Kazan — Perm—Koungour — Souksoun, Demi- doff's Zavod — Achitskaya Krepost–Krasnoufinsk--Be- limbaiefsky Zavod– Ekatherinebourg–Berezofsky–Ka- mishloff--Tumen--Tobolsk. I AM now on the magnificent Volga. The lighter on board which I had embarked did not depart for thirty-six hours, and I felt too much of the sailor in me to quit her: in short, I considered myself as one of the crew, working my passage, and as such employed myself. Nothing was de- manded of me but to row the boat ashore for the captain, and now and then a glass of vodkey. This I was content to submit to, till I found that some grog and more tobacco, was followed by the demand of still more grog, which my purse could very ill bear. I was therefore very well pleased when the anchor was weighed, and we descended the stream ; but so slow was our pro- gress, that we kept the heights of Novgorod in sight for two days, being frequently obliged to anchor, with the ever-dunning sound of “Vodkey- ... Batiushka,” or gin, master. The vessel I was in tº: ， ， " NW Z WYMI„LW”ºſſilſ) SOJ，?IVAL （IVJI, |- - |- ſ. T | THE VOLGA. 101 measured about two hundred and fifty tons, per- ſectly flat-bottomed, and drawing but five feet water. At length, losing sight of Nishney Nov- gorod, we passed many islands and villages, the latter always on the right bank, and on the left an uninterrupted low moorish heath. The strength of the current I calculated at two knots and a half. The variety and singular appearance of the different craft on the Volga, not a little surprised and amused me, as well as the innumerable dif- ferent ways in which they were propelled. The present season of the year, that immediately preceding the fair, is the best for the navigation of the Volga, when barks from one thousand tons to the size of a canoe, all promiscuously float together. They are generally provided with one mast, which, in the largest, may equal a frigate's main-mast. The weight of the mat-sail must be prodigious, having no fewer than a hundred and sixty breadths in it; and yet the facility with which it is managed will bear comparison with that of the Yankies, with their boom main-sail in the fore and aft clippers. They are generally worked by from fifteen to forty people. The rudder is a ponderous machine, in many cases suspended from the stern post, and yet towing astern twelve and fifteen feet ; the tillers of 102 MAKARIEFF. which I have ascertained from measurement to be from thirty to forty feet long, and all worked by the hand. The soil on either side is clay and chalk, and the wood fir and birch. The inhabitants of the vil- lages are the inoffensive and ignorant Fins, a race of people more approximating to the cha- racter of the Gallegos in Lisbon, than any other class of people I have seen. Their great con- tent, and small possessions, are in both a promi- ment feature. We reached Makarieff, after a tedious and vexatious voyage, vexatious from the annoyance of the horse-flies and mosquitoes. I was fairly put to the alternative, whether, during my sleep, I would be suffocated or devoured. I preferred the former, as Smacking more of hu- manity, wrapping myself up close in a spare sail, with three others of the crew. Makarieff is the first inhabited spot, from Nishney Novgorod, on the left bank of the Volga; a straggling, and ill-built place, although a large monastery, at one extremity, appears to strive hard to acquire for it an appearance of respecta- bility. The great fair, which is now held at Nishney Novgorod, was formerly held here; but was removed on the destruction of its site by fire, wilfully, as is supposed. Many vessels, loaded with tallow, hides, and iron, were then MA KARIEFF. 103 lying off it wind-bound, rather than work up between the numerous islands, shoals, and sand- banks, between this place and Novgorod. I re- marked, with pleasure, the knowledge these otherwise ignorant fellows have of the power of the rudder, performing all the close shades, like a fleet of colliers in the Thames. At Makarieff I noticed the utmost height to which the Volga had risen last season—being eighteen feet perpendicular height, at one hun- dred and fifty feet distance from the nearest edge of the river, which is still going down. Having remained at anchor two days, and paid toll at a place called Vasilisomski, which is a sort of sound, where loaded vessels pay one and a half, and those in ballast one rouble—(no slight sinecure)—we departed with a fresh and favour- able gale, passing fleets of vessels, at anchor and under sail. If the trade of the place were to be computed from the number of vessels, without respect to their value, the Volga would indeed be a second Thames. dº We soon reached Kusmodemiansk, a large and populous town, on the right bank of the river, with four meat churches, pleasantly situated at the base and extremity of that chain of lofty hills, which rise in succession from Nishney Novgorod, and here abruptly terminate. The left bank of 104 TCHEBACKSAR. the river still preserved its desolate and unhealthy appearance. The next halting-place was Tche- backsar, where the river is very shallow, and en- cumbered with shifting banks; and here we were again detained by foul winds, as well as the meg- ligence or laziness of the crew, till I began to feel tired of my aquatic excursion, the river offering so very little worthy of notice. I would fain have pursued my route by land, but was prevented by my bag of copper money, which, although its value was not a guinea, was, at least, sixty pounds weight. Leaving it was, of course, totally out of the question : I had, therefore, no remedy but patience. At Tchebacksar I again laid in a stock of pro- visions, conformably to agreement. It consisted of barley, rye, flour, with oil, and black bread. I had hitherto messed with the crew, whose diet was wholesome, although rather new to me, consisting of the above flour, boiled, and stewed down with water and oil. He who likes burgoo, must re- lish casha; and it was with extreme pleasure that I received the spoon into my hand, in my proper turn, to partake of this humble fare. This we did three times a day, and I had the happy con- sciousness of its perfect cleanliness, as I myself stood cook. Provisions, in general, may be here considered cheap ; bread, a halfpenny per pound ; VUTCHI. 105 beer, a halfpenny per bottle ; eggs, three pence per dozen ; and milk, a farthing per bottle. Animal food I know nothing about, not having bought any. Passed the village of Vutchi, placed between two elevated table-hills. A monastery, with four churches, flanked with a thick forest of ever- greens, gave it a pleasing appearance. A boat came alongside from the monastery, with a poor- box, into which I put two pence, no small sum in this part of the world. Upon reaching the little hamlet of Kushuga, our crew quitted us, with bag and baggage, two long-bearded gentlemen taking charge of the craft to Kazan ; a trifling incident, but which powerfully reminded me of the neces- sity of impressment. We were now anxiously looking out for Kazan, and the distant countries became more elevated, and well-wooded with lofty oaks. Siviatski, with its remnant of an old stone castle, was the last interesting spot I observed, before I reached Kazan. The left bank of the river, except at the single town of Makarieff, is one universal waste. From the Volga to the city, is about three miles of a low flat; and this I walk- ed on Tuesday the 22d of June, and the 12th day from Novgorod, being about the same time that I should have taken in going by land. This celebrated city, on nearing it from the 106 KAZAN. westward, greatly resembles Badajos on its ap- proach from Elvas. The extended view, the river in front, the fortress on the left, and the distant elevated lands to the southward. The dirty suburbs, situate on a marshy swamp, the principal residence of the Tartar inhabitants, is the next indication of Kazan; the last was after crossing the Kazanka, when the noblest part of this noble city fronts you in full view. I passed on to the hospitable abode of the learned professor Fuchs. The extensive province of Kazan is watered by the noble Volga and beautiful Kama. Its popula- tion is reckoned at nine hundred thousand, com- posed of Tartars, Fins, Votiaki, Tchuvoshi, and Russians, and a few Mordvas. Near five hundred thousand of these inhabitants are peasants or slaves, four-fifths of whom belong to the crown, and the rest to the different nobility of Kazan. The trade of the province is said to be great, ex- porting vast quantities of tanned and untanned leather, besides about two hundred and fifty thou- sand poods [36 lbs English] of soap, made from the fat of the Astrachan seals. Potash is also a thriving concern. The gold and silver embroidery of boots, shoes, slippers, bonnets, &c. employs a great number of people. The province is low and wet, and to its acknowledged unhealthiness the RAZAN. 107 impurity of the water greatly contributes. The greatest heat is 29", and the greatest cold 33° of Reaumur's scale. The Volga is navigable about two hundred days in the year. The province is in general well cultivated, and exports prodigious quantities of corn to the capitals. The revenue is estimated at sixteen millions of roubles [or about 700,000l., a rouble being 10d. of our money]; and of these, spirits alone furnish four millions, the consumption of which, in the city only, on a feast day, is said to amount to the value of five thousand roubles, and on ordinary days to about fifteen hundred. The city of Kazan is considered as second only to the capitals, containing nearly forty thousand inhabitants, of which twelve thousand are Tartars. On the present state of the city, it is hardly fair to give an opinion, rising as it is from the ashes of a fire scarcely five years extinguished. It had formerly a cathedral on the site of the ancient mosque, as also a palace ; both were destroyed by an explosion in the citadel. The destruction of the city was indeed nearly complete, and it is difficult to conceive how any vestige could remain, a high wind driving a mass of flame over houses built, and streets absolutely paved, with wood. These wooden buildings and pavements have been discountenanced by the Emperor, who has held | OS KAZAN. out many inducements to build with brick. The city is archiepiscopal, and the seat of an university. It has several handsome churches, four of which belong to the Rascolnicks, besides many Tartar mosques, and some convents. The church of St. Peter and St. Paul is a handsome stone edifice, erected at the expense of a private gentleman in honour of Peter the Great, in consideration of that monarch's having made his residence a halt- ing-place during one of his journeys. In Kazan also is a church, which gave rise to that beau- tiful building, the Kazan church, at Saint Pe- tersburg, though its architecture would seem to demote a theatre. I dined with her eminence the abbess, for so she is styled. She had the benevolence to present me with an image of their saint, which was to act as a charm against other- wise inevitable mischief. I accepted it, of course, with due reverence, without any strong faith in its boasted virtues, an estimate, which it will be seen by experience was fully vindicated. The lady, the original of this image, lives twelve miles from Kazan, to which, however, she makes an annual visit, and collects, from the bounty of her believers, sufficient to support her the ensu- ing year. I visited the Hotel des Nobles, a club formed of the mobility, fifteen or twenty of whom daily dine - - KAZAN. 109 there, independent of casual travellers, who have free access upon moderate terms. A friendly sort of intercourse is thus kept up, and the news of the day emanates from the club, in a manner which the servile press dares not attempt. Billiards and cards are the set amusements of the club, it being a custom of Russian idlers to play boston before and after dinner. They then retire to business, or to sleep, meeting again in the evening to repeat the entertainment over a cup of tea. Speaking of the word boston, it is rather a curious circum- stance, that such an Anglo-amusement should have become exclusively the adoption of the em- pire of Russia:—under the wings of the eagle it was brought forth, and there it is still fostered. Among the numerous individuals here from whom I received marked attention, I should specially notice the Governor and Vice-governor; the prince Davidoff, director of the post; and prince Teni- sheff, general in the army, and head of a military commission, not forgetting my friend the professor, Both the princes are of Tartar origin, though their character and conduct would do honour to the proudest rank of polished society. I attended a fête given by the latter prince at his villa, seven- teen versts from the city. If the learned Dr. Clarke had been living and present, he would have found, in the delicacy and decorum every } ] () KAZAN. where prevalent, a strong proof that a Russian country-house is not now, at least, such as he has described it. A Russian prince, count, or baron, descended from a Russian family, is always a nobleman, without any military, civil, or honorary distinc- tion. But no person of those ranks, whose origin has been Tartar, Asiatic, or Foreign, has any claim whatever to nobility, beyond the other free individuals of the empire; the title is indeed here- ditary, and descends in the same wholesale man- ner as in Germany, but it gives no rank or privi- lege whatever. Without the addition of military or civil rank, title is rather a disadvantage to the possessor, as the empire expects from every man of respectability a three years’ service in the army, navy, or civil departments. After this, he may retire with credit ; yet, so salutary is the effect of this custom, that the retirement of an officer is of extremely rare occurrence. In case, however, of any change of inclination, they are permitted, within certain limitations, to vary the nature of the service: thus, an officer of the navy may change to the army or civil department—an officer of the army to the civil department, but not to the navy; but an officer of the civil ser- vice cannot exchange into either army or navy : KAZAN. | | | —thus, forming a strong inducement to them to commence, at least, with the profession of arms. A prince is not, from that circumstance, a nobleman, though an officer, of whatever rank, is: and by his becoming a major in the army, or cap- tain of the navy, he entails upon his children, without limit, the rank of nobility. The rank of women in Russia is fixed, like their condition, for better or worse, according to that of their husbands. If a woman not noble marries a slave, she degrades herself to his condition; while a woman slave, becoming united to a freeman, becomes free. But in Russia, every thing is at the disposal of the Emperor: titles, privileges, rank, and fortune, are regulated by his will. And formerly, when it was no uncommon thing for an Emperor to give the benefit of a Siberian air to ministers, counts, and other dignitaries of the empire, it was not unusual to accompany the seclusion with the loss of honours, hereditary rank, of fortune, and even of the very name. The latter circumstance never, indeed, took place but when the person was charged with a crime. But this arbitrary exercise of power has certainly not occurred during the present Emperor's reign, nor would the exercise of such a prerogative be tolerated for any length of time. l 12 PERM. The governor of Kazan was good enough to make up a part of my lost time, by giving me a lift towards Perm; and on the 25th of June, I departed in a kibitka, taking a last view of the city from Tzaritzino. Crossed the Kama, which enters the Volga at forty miles below Kazan. The road had been very fine, and the country fertile in corn and flax, the principal productions, The appearance of the crops was good, and the preparations for the harvest cast a lively and agreeable feature upon the journey. I overtook great numbers of men and boys returning to their homes, having carried vessels down the Kama, and thence into the Volga. The country on the east side of the Kama becomes wild and dreary, through forests of fir, birch, and poplars. The weather was sultry, and the mosquitoes trouble- some ; and there was nothing to delight the eye, or interest the feelings, except the numerous Tartar villages, which lie scattered at every five or six miles distance. Many of the Viatka race, a handsome people, are in the neighbourhood. Although I had ceased for the present to be a pedestrian, I did not, from whatever cause, re- ceive so great civility as I had been accustomed to. The conduct of the postilion to the poor peasantry was mot such as to induce my forming a favourable opinion of the Permian executives. PERM. I 13 I could not help regretting that the present mode of forwarding the post affords no security against fraud, cruelty, and abuse. The moment these postilions arrive at a station, they fly to the kabak, or gin-shop, where they loiter away half an hour in drinking, &c. When the postilion is ready to start, he holds out his hand with the same avidity and mechanical appearance as a lawyer or physi- cian would do ; generally a rouble, or a couple, according to the length of the station, or number of horses, is given, to prevent—what? Why, to prevent the free exercise of their high powers in driving the horses at so furious a rate, as to en- danger not only the lives of the poor animals, but of the driver and other persons going with him. The forwarding of the post being by contract between the Government and the individual, is thus liable to a most intolerable abuse: of course the owner of the horses will sooner part with a couple of shillings, than run the risk of losing one of his horses by being overdriven, a circumstance which not unfrequently happens. At present there is but one favourable consideration in the post-office department; that is, its extraordinary speed, which I shall have occasion hereafter to notice. On the 4th day I entered Perm, thoroughly fatigued with the jolting of the kibitka, although VOL. I. I 1 14 PERM. the road was very fine, lying invariably through thick woods, with but two towns, and most un- prepossessing villages, all the way from Kazan. Having delivered a letter to the Director of the Post, who understood no language but the Rus- sian, he recommended me to the care and atten- tion of a Mr. Berg, formerly a Lieutenant in the Russian navy, now an author, and a rich man— advantages which seldom accompany each other. His knowledge of the English language, as well as his hospitality and urbanity, made his company highly valuable. He had made the tour of the world with Commodore Kruzenstern, and was consequently able to give me a great deal of use- ful information. - Perm is the capital of a Province, and a con- siderable city, built by the Empress Catherine, at the time that great princess increased the number of governments from fourteen to forty- seven ; convinced that a due administration of justice could not take place, where the govern- ments are so extensive. The city stands on the right bank of the Kama, covered on three sides by a thick forest, whose trees reach to the very gates of the city. It is regularly and handsomely built, and contains about eight thousand inhabi- tants; the whole province numbers eight hun- dred thousand, consisting of Russians, Bashkires, PERM. | | 5 Tcheremiss, Teptery and Vaugoles. The Bash- kires, a numerous race, are said to be descendants of the Tartars, who inhabited the district between the Don, the Volga, and the Ural mountains, and are probably of the same family with the Tartars of Kazan. They were originally wanderers, but since their subjection to Russia, have applied themselves to agriculture, and the breeding of cattle, especially of horses. These they have learnt to manage with facility, and even with grace; and yet, even this has not destroyed that, perhaps, most savage of their original habits, the feeding upon their carcases. Their character is worse than indifferent, being lazy, and tyrannical towards their wives, to whose care, nevertheless, they owe every thing. They are handsome, both in form and features, and are fond of medals and fanciful ornaments, or dresses. Both sexes dress nearly alike, in large trowsers, and a loose gown, fastened round the waist with a silk sash. Their heads are usually shaved, and covered with a cap decorated with embroidery ; as are likewise their boots. There is but one public school in Perm, and that of small repute, and the state of society, and of education, in general are at a low ebb; yet Perm is a thriving place, being rich in its pro- vincial exports, which from the local situation I 2 | 16 PER M. must all go through the capital. The export of iron is said to equal five millions of poods, which, with six millions of poods of salt, seventy thou- sand poods of copper, seventeen of gold, and two millions and a half of coined roubles from Eka- therinebourg, form no bad criterion for estimating the riches of the government. Perm yields a gross revenue of ten millions of roubles, which, on a deduction of seven for its expenses, leaves a net revenue of three millions, exactly equalling the copper money and gold collected from the sands of Ekatherinebourg. The soil is in general good; corn is both cheap and abundant, being exported in great quantities. The face of the country is generally level, till nearing the Sibe- rian frontiers, at the base of the Ural mountains, which separate Europe from Asia. The impor- tance of these mountains seems to be little felt or understood by the Russian government, though there can be no doubt of their containing sources of wealth all but inexhaustible. I left Perm on the 8th of July, on one of the finest roads in the world. At three miles I pas- sed an exceedingly fertile spot, beautifully re- flected from the dark woods, which skirt it even to the horizon. Before reaching the first station, I had passed five villages in a delightful walk, the beauty of which did not afterwards diminish, KOUNG OUR, 1 17 while the Kama seemed to travel by my side. The road is good, as far as Kongour, and the country fertile, with hills traversing it in all directions. The valleys are filled with villages, nursed in the bosom of peace, and fed with the abundance of plenty, of which blessings they are not, from their local situation, likely to be soon deprived. Koungour, formerly the capital of several pro- vinces, has now little or nothing to boast of be- sides the beauty of its situation. After dinner I reached Sabarsk, a village, eighteen miles, where I put up for the night. It lies in a well-wooded country, and whose lands are economized and attended to in a manner worthy of the disciples of Englishmen. Koungour appears to me to be an elevated level; for I consider that the grand base of the Ural mountains commences from Perm. From Koungour I reached Souksoum, Demi- doff’s Zavod, viz. iron-works, a large, long, but busy place, on the borders of a lake, where is a considerable iron manufactory, as well as distil- lery. The situation is in a deep hollow, sur- rounded by thickly clad hills of fir. Unlike the people of Kazan, I found the inhabitants a chur- lish race; but being in good health and spirits, I took little heed, simply shewing my passport and open order to the police as a hint for proper treatment. The elders of the villages and I 118 SOUKSOUM DEMIDOFF's IRON-WORKS. were, however, 'sure to be good friends; so long as milk, black bread, and kuass, with some- times soup, were to be purchased. To these were added, a glass of cordial at the kabak or gin-shop, procured gratis by an order from the farmer-general, and which latter I divided with my friends. • As I approached the frontiers of Siberia I began to give way to groundless, though perhaps natural apprehensions; and indeed as I neared such a sup- posed scene of cruelty and misery, I became com- pletely agitated. Hitherto Providence had pro- tected me, but although I felt thankful for the past, I could not but be concerned for the future, reasonably doubting how, where, and when my pilgrimage would end. - Pursuing my route, I reached the sixth station, charmed with the beauty of the surrounding scenery. And if I might judge of the number of its inhabitants by the quantity of cultivated land, I should say it was one of the most popu- lous, as well as finest spots I had ever seen. Achitskaya Krepost was the next large village with a good post-house. Hence the road turns off to the south, to the summit of a range of hills, which commanded an extensive prospect of a lovely scene, to which a slight fall of rain had given increased freshness, brilliancy, and beauty. ACHITSKAYA KREPOST. | 19 I passed a large unemployed distillery, the pro- perty of the government, as indeed are all others on this side the Ural mountains, the government having monopolized the sale of spirits throughout the European dominions. If the mere increase of the public revenue may warrant such a mea- sure, there can no more be said. But whatever may be the direct benefit to the treasury of carrying on business to the amount of thirty mil- lions of roubles per annum, its mischievous ten- dency in enriching a few individuals at the expense of as many thousands, is incalculable. By farming the distilleries, a system of plunder is practically encouraged, while the losers in the long run are the poor peasantry, who receive a trash of spirit, far below the proof, it being, to my knowledge, doubly and trebly watered: nor can the retailers of such stuff get back their money in any other manner. The situation of a vice-governor thus becomes one of the greatest value, receiving in some in- stances half a million of roubles, or upwards of twenty thousand pounds sterling, a year. Two direct means of a vice-governor's enriching him- self are, the percentage upon every vedro or anker of spirits sold in the province, and a cer- tain sum paid by the retailers for their licences. By these alone, a vice-governor may annually put 120 ACHITSKAY A. KREPOST. into his own pocket not less than four hundred thousand roubles. It is the duty of a vice- governor to visit the different distilleries and kabaks, or gin-shops, to ascertain whether the spirits be adulterated : having already received his bribe from the farmer-general of the province, he of course finds no fault. The latter of these gentlemen then makes his own visit, to examine whether the retailers have not still more adul- terated it than was allowed in the first instance: the affirmative is a matter of course, but on a di- vision of the spoils, no fault is found. Lastly, comes the secretary or clerk of the farmer-ge- neral, who finds the spirit still further adulterated, and who having in his hands the power of pu- nishment, even to the withdrawing of the li- cence, becomes a participator of the last spoils. To make up these immense subductions, another and another portion of water is added to the spi- rit, all of which is valued to the poor peasant as genuine. The oppression, before heavy enough, is thus doubled upon him, as the weaker the spi- rit, the more he finds it necessary to consume. This system of robbery is mainly owing to the palpably inefficient provision made by the govern- ment for officers of all ranks, who are thus tempt- ed by indirect means to seek a compensation for their services. -"* s KRASNOU FINSK. | 2 | Krasnoufinsk, which I reached next, is situated in a fertile valley at the foot of two peaked moun- tains. It is a scattered and ill-built place, but in a fine productive country, and from the top of the mountains commands an extensive view of the river Ufa, meandering from one side of the horizon to the other, but generally immersed in one continuous fog. The town is frequently overflowed, and thence, doubtless, is considered unhealthy. The establishment is new, for the old ostrog, or advanced fortress, is still kept up, to oppose any possible incursion of their southern neighbours. A deputation of the inhabitants waited upon me, to request I would remain a couple of days, to be present at a dinner to be given in honour of the first Englishman who had visited the place. I felt the compliment, nationally, but thought best to decline it, as perfectly unmerited by the individual, independently of my anxiety to get forward; and therefore returned to Achitskaya Krepost. Thence to Bisserskaya Krepost, over eighteen miles of uncultivated country, after which I gently ascended a considerable elevation into the bosom of the Ural mountains, where not a ves- tige of cultivation exists besides young firs and birch. The air was exceedingly cold on the sum- mit. At noon I stopped at the last European 122 BELIMBAIEFSKY ZAVOD. station, called Kirgishantsky Krepost, and at the last European residence, where I dined. The good people had resolved I should not leave this paramount quarter of the globe with any trace of dissatisfaction, as young children continually presented me with wild strawberries and cream : the strawberries were of an excellent flavour, and it is the custom of these poor people to pre- sent the traveller with such fruit during the season. I received the present, standing with one foot in Asia and the other in Europe, surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains, covered, however, with nothing but brush wood. In the evening I reached the first station in Asia, called Groborskoy, a post-town ; and next day, with a stout heart, descended the Siberian part of the Ural chain, to Belimbaiefsky Zavod, or Iron Foundry, on the banks of the Tschusova, where there are many handsome buildings. Early the ensuing morning I reached Ekatherinebourg, having passed in safety the mighty barriers which divide Europe from Asia. The ascent and de- scent are so nearly imperceptible, that were it not for the precipitous banks every where to be seen, the traveller would hardly suppose he had crossed a range of hills. As far as this frontier town of Siberia, I had travelled through one continued forest of pine-trees, and for twenty miles nothing ERATH ERINEBOURG. 123 met the eye but fire-wood, grown for the use of the Imperial fabricks. On reaching the Asiatic side of the Ural chain, I could not help remarking that the in- habitants of all the villages were much more civil, more hospitable, and more cleanly dressed ; and in no one instance would they accept of money for the food I had occasion to procure. I never entered a cottage, but shtshee (a cabbage soup) with meat, milk and bread, were immediately placed before me unasked ; nor could any en- treaty of mine induce them to receive a higher reward than a pipe of tobacco, or a glass of vodka (whisky). In short, to prevent uselessly troubling the inhabitants, I was obliged to consign my nearly exhausted purse to the care of my knap- sack, renouncing the hacknied and unsocial cus- tom of paying for food. Another remark which attends the traveller on quitting Europe, is the fact of his leaving the land of oak, not a vestige of that tree being visible, I believe, in Asia. The Sable is, however, met with, an animal which is never found to the westward of the Ural chain of mountains. It is also confidently asserted that mice taken from one side to the other will not survive: thus, nightingales in Devonshire, sables in America, or martins in Asia, are, I believe, looked for as snow in Equatorial Africa. 124 EKATHER IN EBOURG. Among other proofs of their civility, or rather of the interest which Russians take in foreigners, as well as the means they have of making them- selves understood, one very strong one occurred to me in a small village. I had learnt so much of the language, as to know that kchorosho is the Russian word for well, but not that kchudo was the translation for bad. My host being a good sort of a blunt fellow, was discoursing upon the impropriety of travelling as I did. As I could not comprehend him, I was impatient to go, but he persisted in detaining me till he had made me understand the meaning of kchudo. My ex- treme stupidity offered a powerful barrier to his design ; but a smart slap on one cheek, and a kiss on the other, followed by the words kchudo and kchorosho soon cured my dulness, and I laughed heartily in spite of this mode of instruction. Ekatherinebourg is the key of Siberia, and hence, a post at which passports are most rigo- rously examined. Yet on making known my in- tention to stop at the house of a Mr. Major, an Englishman, and an officer in the College of Mines, I was not only permitted to pass, but, in Mr. Major's absence, another lodging was pro- cured me. This was in the dwelling of a Mr. Mohr, a low plodding German, of whom there are too many in Ekatherinebourg. It is a well-built ICK ATHER IN EBOURG. 125 city, founded by Catherine, near the source of the Iset, containing fifteen thousand inhabitants. There is a large fabric belonging to the Empe- ror, for polishing and preparing vases, urns, slabs, and the like, as well as to deposit selections of mineralogy and precious stones for the formation of cabinets. There are also numerous large iron and copper founderies in the neighbourhood of Ekatherinebourg, the latter of which supply the mint of the city with metal for coining three millions of copper roubles annually. The coin is badly executed, being chipped and cracked the first moment it is issued, nor is the metal better; and no care is taken to select or recoin any of this wretched money. The copper mines are near three hundred miles distant from the city; yet here the metal is worked up into ingots, heated, barred, cut, rounded, cleaned, and stamp- ed; and lastly, they may be said to barely pay the salaries of the officers and peasants. Near the city the river is dammed up so as to form a sort of lake for the washing of the sand, which produces the gold; and close to it is the department for smelting that costly metal. This is produced from the gold mines of Bere- Zofsky, distant twelve miles; the quantity pro- duced is, however, small. The moment a fine Specimen of pure gold is discovered, it makes its 126 EIS ATHERINEBOURG. way into the cabinet of some private individual, and such specimens are neither few in number, nor their intrinsic value small. It is justified on the usual ground of the insufficient remuneration of the officers, and at present may be considered as a fair and natural means of the support of government; for the salaries of officers and men, so far from having been increased since the days of Peter the Great and Catherine, have in reality been reduced three fourths. Then the govern- ment paid in silver roubles (3s. 4d. Sterling) —but now in paper, the current value of which is 9%d. When the increased value of provisions, and of all other articles, is considered in propor- tion with what they were fifty and one hundred years ago, it is only fair to put such pilfering to the account of necessity rather than to that of depravity. Lest in this state of my narrative I may be misinterpreted, I think it but candid and just to tell my readers, that whatever bribery and corruption exist in the Russian Empire, I do not think they exceed that of more civilized (as they are termed) countries. Kissing goes by favour in every quarter of the globe, but I do not think extortion in Russia proceeds so much from avarice as from necessity; the latter has no law nor rule to curb it, and when backed by an unfeigned and unlimited hospitality, surely the crime is EKATHERINEBOURG. 127 sunk into the necessity of the case. In the midst of an abundance of natural wealth, it is true, the peasant gets but very little reward for very hard work; but as all compulsive labour is reluctantly and badly performed, so that in cold and dreary mines might be expected to be of all others per- formed the worst, and the least rewarded. Six thousand fine young men are employed in this occupation from morn till night through all sea- sons: and to sustain, certainly not to reward this, receive a daily allowance of two pounds of black bread, with a suit of clothes and a sum amounting to 13s.6d. Sterling yearly : whatever they acquire beyond this must be by dishonest means. These six thousand individuals produce annually from the mines and sands about seventeen poods of gold and ten of silver, the united value of which is cer- tainly under £30,000 sterling : so that the clear annual profit to the government, of each of these able-bodied men, after even these insufficient means of livelihood, cannot exceed 20s. a-head. But for the imperious necessity of procuring a continued coinage, in order to support the im- mense circulating medium, it may be supposed. that the Russian government could not hesitate for a moment to enfranchise these peasant slaves; as their contribution to the revenue, in the Way of direct taxation, would infinitely exceed | 2S BEIREZOIFSKY. the paltry profit accruing from their coercive labour :—to say nothing of the large proportion which must be deducted for the expenses of an establishment, requiring so great a number of officers, and probably of costly implements. At Ekatherinebourg, at the table of the ami- able chief, I met a Mr. Roper, an Englishman, employed in the mines. After dinner we visited the beds of gold-sand. They seemed about, six feet deep. The governor appeared to me too san- guine of the results, which can never authorize the employment of such fine young lads in the everlasting washing of the sands, with their feet constantly in water. From the gold beds I visited the mines of Be- rezofsky, the principal working one of which, a hundred and sixty feet of perpendicular depth, I descended. My access was, as in other mines, by the staircase, preferring that mode of descent to the more usual one in this place of being let down by the basket. I saw nothing to remark in the nature or plan of the employment, though I could not but regret that the operators were not, as in South America, criminals, but peasants belonging to the Imperial crown. The produce of the mines is in the proportion of one guinea's worth of pure gold for every four thousand pounds weight of earth. Ninety-six zolotniks are equal to a pound, BER hº() FSKY. 129 and three zolotniks of gold are produced from each hundred poods of earth; so that even allow- ing forty pounds sterling for every pound of gold, the utmost value of every one hundred poods of earth cannot exceed twenty-five shillings. The sum of the matter is, that His Imperial Majesty gets five thousand pounds sterling annually from the employment of six thousand men, deducting only the payment of his officers, a diminution which, it will be allowed, is not great. So small indeed is the return from the establishment of Ekatherinebourg, that I did not think it inappro- priate, to say to one of the chief officers, who had asked my opinion, that, were it not for the three millions of copper roubles which the government gained, the whole establishment deserved the air of farther Siberia—instead of copper, it should pro- duce silver roubles, so inexhaustible are the riches of the place. The magnificent iron establishment belonging to the Yakovleff family, is much better deserving of attention. Six thousand peasants are attached to it, and at present employed in making bar iron for the fair of Nishney-Novgorod, iron plates for covering houses, cast-iron utensils of various kinds, steam-engines, and immense quantities of cutlery, not forgetting the iron images for wor- VOL. I. K 130 B.E.R.E.2, OFSKY. ship, all finished in a neat and solid manner. The buildings appertaining to this establishment are equally extensive and substantial; and the situa- tion of the overseer, who is a peasant, is worth two thousand pounds per annum ! The villages of the peasantry are well built, and much liberality is evident in every part of the concern, which is as profitable, as creditable to the proprietor, whose character stands very high ; affording no small counter proof how much the Imperial works are neglected, while those of the individual are protected, encouraged, and industriously perse- vered in. I have already said that Ekatherinebourg is a well-built city. It indeed abounds in public edi- fices, bazars, and churches, and is regularly laid out in streets; but the inhabitants generally, even those who may be styled opulent, are bondsmen, either to the government or to private individuals. The greatest proportion of these are Raskolnicks, who some time ago sent one of their own body to purchase permission to build a church for the free exercise of their own abominable tenets. The zealous missionary was also charged with four hundred thousand roubles, to make good his way; but neither missionary, nor licence, nor money, have been since heard of. This conduct, I should think, might be expected from such zealous and KAMISHI, OFIF. 13] intolerant unitarians of faith; for whether Greek, Catholic, Protestant, or Methodist, it is one and the same thing—he who attempts to interfere with an established religion is no tolerant, but a bigot, and what are the most civilized part of the community about 2 Quitting Ekatherinebourg, I directed my steps towards Tobolsk, gratified that I had already en- tered Siberia. After ten miles of pleasant walk- ing, I reached the hospitable habitation of Mr. Major, where I passed a couple of days in an agreeable manner, with his wife and three daugh- ters, fine young women, and either of them suffi- ciently beautiful to arrest the progress of a Sibe- rian traveller. Having no time to fall in love, I took, at parting with the ladies, advantage of the Russian custom, which permitted my kissing their hands, while they at the same time honour- ed me by saluting my cheek. I reached the second station late in the evening, and next day remarking with pleasure the cleanli- ness and good nature of the inhabitants, reached Kamishloff. Kaminsky, a useless cannon-foundery, lay in my way. The road is every where excel- lent over low swampy, yet well wooded, ground. Kamishloff is a pretty little town on the banks of the Pyshma, a river but little used, by reason of Some falls. There are two thousand inhabitants, K 2 132 KA MIISHI, O Fl'. occupying a somewhat flourishing carrying-trade, I received the kindest attentions from the town major (a young militaire, who had been severely wounded in the Russian or Napoleon campaigns), and from the inspector-general, who was then going his rounds. Kamishloff is the last station in the government of Perm, a government I felt as little regret at quitting, as I had fear of enter- ing upon my return : it is a place most unfor- tunately situated --- between Europe and Asia, civilization and semi-barbarism—in short, between vice and virtue. To Tumen, the first station, are thirty-six, and to the second twenty-six versts,<-- thirty-five miles in all. The country appeared well cultivated upon a soil of black mould. The third station of twenty-five, and the fourth of twenty-eight versts, --another thirty-five miles, I cleared in good time, but with a somewhat awk- ward indication of ulcers on my feet: a malady, according to my system, very easily and cheaply to be remedied in Siberia. At the last station, a small Tartar village, I was regaled with pork, bread and eggs, at free cost, no purse being neces- sary among these Tartars. I partook of the whole- some fare à la Tartare, shaking hands first with the host, and receiving his blessing of “Peace be with you!” then squatting on my hams, like the rest of the company. On the third day I reached TU M E. N. } 33 Tumen, after near forty miles walking. The town major kindly received and lodged me in his house. Tumen is a city of some consideration, and from its local situation, enjoys a considerable trade with the fair of Irbit, as well as to the south-west and south-east of it. Its population is said to consist of eight thousand, occupied mostly in the prepara- tion and export of timber, tallow, hides, and em- broidery. It is situate on the banks of the Toura. It owes its celebrity to Yermack, who discovered and conquered the greater part of Siberia. The environs of the city are fine pastures, and corn lands. With this advantage of soil, added to that of its being a depôt or chancellary, as it is called, of the Russian American Company, for the receipt and transportation of their goods, as well as to enlist volunteers, it may be said that Tumen is a place of considerable promise. The banks of the Toura are steep, and the current rapid. The country round is populous, and more than ordinary industry is every where observable. Having crossed a miserable bridge, I reached the first station from Tumen, fifteen miles, where I put up for the night. It was, indeed, a wretched place; but I shall remember it, as affording a specimen of the proficiency I had made in the Russian language. Upon my arrival I demanded 134 TU MEN. the name of the place, and was answered, as I had often been, Malaya Derevenya, which I in- terpreted little revenue. In the present case, such a name seemed, indeed, peculiarly appropri- ate, for certainly the place appeared too poor to contribute any very efficient support to the resources of the empire. The frequency of the reply, however, induced me here to make in- quiry, and I discovered my error, the nature of which, however it abashed me at the time, places me in very respectable company---no less than that of the justly celebrated and learned Dr. Clarke, who was eternally crossing the river Protok, ap- parently ignorant that the Protok means neither more nor less than the branch of a river. The second and third stations lay on the banks of the Toura, running through a highly cultivated and pleasant country, with immense herds of cattle scattered in every direction, and the inhabitants civil, polite, and hospitable, in proportion to their wealth. During the latter part of this walk, I had followed the custom of the place, the same as that in Spain, where I have often wandered with the muleteers, viz. that of sleeping in the open air. They are, indeed, a set of merry, happy fellows— hail fellow well met, this way or that, rain or shine, hot or cold, nothing comes cross, while the beasts can get good fodder, and the moon does not TOBOLSK. 135 shine in the eyes. A good fire serves at once to cook the provisions, drive away the mosquitoes, or keep off cold. The following day I reached the fifth station, thirty-five miles. Here are a few dirty huts in a low marshy country. I had crossed the Toura by a miserable ferry; the breadth of the river two hundred yards, and the rate three, or three and a-half knots per hour. To the eighth station, is still a low country, almost inundated from the late heavy rains ; which have done so much damage that the village of Lepofsky has been completely washed away. With the river Toura constantly, at my side, and the rain almost inces- Sant, I reached the tenth station ; and thence to Tobolsk, where I arrived half drowned and famished, at three in the afternoon. I had en- countered considerable difficulty in crossing the Irtish, in consequence of the rapidity of the fresh. The view of the city, and ancient fortress, on arriving from the westward, is very fine, standing on a considerable eminence, which overhangs the river and lower city. Upon my arrival I searched out the abode of Mr. Rosing, son-in-law to the Governor, and brother-in-law to my late kind host Mr. Berg, of Perm. The family were all at the Gover- nor's, but, receiving a note from me, they kindly 136 T() BOLSK. invited me to dinner; my situation, however, ren- dered this impossible, as I was all but naked. My second apology brought the host himself, who ordered me every accommodation I needed. In the evening the whole party visited me, from the Governor's, observing with much kindness on the delay of my visit, and adding the proverb of Mahomet and the mountain. I gave myself up to the enjoyment of this delightful company, and of my pipe and a glass of punch, and could have fancied myself any where, rather than at Tobolsk. Formerly this was the capital of all Siberia, afterwards of a province, but now of western Siberia; a Governor-general residing in it, whose jurisdiction comprises that of Tomsk and Omsk, while Irkutsk has also a Governor-general, who rules Irkutsk, Yenisseisk, Yakutsk, Okhotsk, and Kamtchatka. Tobolsk is a large and ancient city, at the junction of the Tobol and Irtish, two noble streams, which falling into the Ob, assume its name, and are, with them, ultimately lost in the Frozen Ocean. The inhabitants are estimated at twenty thousand, composed of Russians, Tartars, and Bucharians. A considerable trade is still carried on with China, and Tobolsk may be said to supply all central and western Siberia. It has, however, lost much by the change of route, which formerly led through the city; by which change TO BOLSK. I 37 the caravans have disused it as a halting-place on their way to farther Siberia, and on their return, the straight road being from Tumen to Tara. Tobolsk is the see of an archbishop, who has jurisdiction over all Siberia. It has many hand- some churches, but (fortunately) no convents; the streets are paved with wood, and in general the buildings are of the same material. The markets and bazars are well regulated, and the town in general is very clean. The residences of the archbishop, governor-general, and principal officers, as well as the barracks, arsenal, and all public offices, are in the upper part of the city. The position is a most commanding one, a matter of no slight consideration in those times, when convicts were kept in the lower town. Numerous large flocks of cattle are seen in the neighbourhood of Tobolsk: provisions are cheap and abundant— bread thirty-six pounds for a shilling, and the same quantity of meat for three ; and hospitality eminently proverbial. But what is perhaps more remarkable, very good society is to be enjoyed here, and the strongest features of content are displayed in this hitherto supposed metropolis of barbarism and cruelty. The truth is, that Tobolsk is not a place where convicts or malefactors are allowed to remain, but people who are exiled from political causes only ; 138 TOBOLSK. the principal part of whom are officers, who have still the privilege of appearing in public, without the loss of either rank, fortune, or even character. The Governor has it in his power to befriend any individual, himself becoming responsible for his appearance when necessary: and as no govern- ment transports or banishes fools, Tobolsk may very well be, from this circumstance, a highly civilized and eligible place of residence.—Male- factors and bad subjects are sent to Tomsk and Nertohinsk. I visited the celebrated fortress built by Yer- mak, the discoverer and conqueror of Siberia. Several old swords, muskets, and the like, are deposited there, which for size and weight might vie with the more famous sword in Dumbarton castle. I also attended an examination at the public military and the provincial schools on the Lancasterian system. The children seemed to have made considerable proficiency in the first rudiments; the schools, however, are yet in their infancy, though nearly one thousand boys attend. It was, indeed, gratifying to a patriotic heart, to see the institutions of Old England adopted in the heart of Siberia—an adoption equally honourable to us, and creditable to Alexander. The view of the surrounding country from the residence of the Governor is really sublime, pre- TOBOLSK. - | 39 serving still its ancient wild magnificence. In front are the noble Irtish and Tobol, joining their waters from the east and south, and continuing their united course through the black and impe- netrable forests, till lost on the verge of the horizon : the numerous pasture lands on the op- posite bank of the river, with here and there a smoking chimney, enliven the scene, and render the place, with all its surrounding but distant desarts, a really enviable retreat. Immediately under the eye is the river and lower town, with its regularly intersecting streets ; all these afford ocular demonstration, that Tobolsk is far from being a dull place; yet, even in summer, the situation is very cold and bleak, being in the latitude of near 59°, and the thermometer, during winter, at times falling as low as 40° and 42° of Reaumur ; while on the other hand it is not always free from the opposite unpleasantness of extreme heat. The climate of the province, generally speaking, is inhospitable, no part but the southern produ- cing grain. The soil is chiefly marl and chalk, except to the north, which is covered with im- mense tracts of sand. The wood is for the most part stunted in its growth, and such is the po- Verty of this province, which contains more than a million of Souls, that the government receives 140 TOBOLSK, from it but three millions of roubles mett revenue, or one hundred and fifty thousand pounds sterling. Its extent is immense, being from the latitude of 50° to the frozen Sea, and near one thousand miles in width. The northern districts are in- habited by Samoiedes and Ostiaks, a wild, bar- barous race, who live by fishing and hunting, enduring all the rigours of winter, sometimes even without fuel. Fishing is also an active pur- suit at Tobolsk, near two thousand people being employed upon the Irtish and Tobol. The practice is to ascend the streams before the winter commences, catching and drying the fish as they go, and returning to the city with the breaking up of the ice. This employment, besides providing for the maintenance of those engaged in it, yields a very remunerating profit. The embroidery of muslims is also brought to considerable perfection at Tobolsk, introduced originally by the daughters of exiled officers, who had felt the deprivation of their former means of subsistence; and it is now the prevailing fashion among the ladies. The poor classes, however, are indolent, and will sel- dom work beyond what is immediately necessary for the procurement of food; and this may in part account for their suffering some of the richest and most beautiful lands in the world, on the banks of the Irtish, and towards the Chinese TOBOLSK. 14 | frontiers, to lie waste, while they prefer the desarts and forests of the north. To this inducement, however, must be added that of obstinacy and false pride, and, perhaps, some portion of laudable attachment to their native city, which is termed the grand and ancient capital of all Siberia, and which has been the scene of achievements, equal, if not superior to those of Cortez. CHAPTER V. Brief History of Western Siberia, and of its Conqueror Yer- mak—Imalak—Ingeary—Kaminski–Kamisart—Ishim— Tusnabolova–Toukalinsk—Omsk—The Kirguise—Cal- mucks——Jeliezinskaya——Yamishersk——Poyanoyarsk—— Ubinsk — Uvarova–Alexandrofsk — Bouktourma—Kras- nojarsk—Maloi Narymsk—Chinese Frontier—The Irtish —Ustkamenegorsk—Ismayelova—Neighbourhood of the Kolyvan—Kalmanka—Barnaoule–Tomsk—Kioff—Kras- nochinsky—Bagota—Atchinsk–Krasnojaisk—Kansko— Ingashe—Nishney Udinsk—Irkutsk. THE early history of this part of the world is involved in much obscurity, little being known of it prior to the beginning of the sixteenth century, when the celebrated Yermak became at once the discoverer and conqueror of Western Siberia. He had originally been the leader of a numerous and well-organized banditti, who committed great and distressful ravages on the rivers Don and Volga, but which were put an end to after the victories of Ivan Basilovitch over the Tartars of Kazan and Astrakan, when he devoted his attention to the peaceable establishment of his dominions. Yermak was thus compelled to fly, and sought WWESTERN SIBERIA. 143 refuge in the north, on the banks of the Kama, where the family of Strogonoff had a factory for the purpose of barter with the Siberians. The conduct of our hero proved so unlike that of a freebooter, that Strogonoff during the winter of 1577 provided him with necessaries to subsist his men, and with arms and ammunition to make an incursion upon the Siberians. The first campaign was in the summer of 1578. Yermak had from six to seven thousand men with him; but through his ignorance of the route, and want of guides, winter closed in upon him almost before the commencement of the campaign. His route lay along the Kama to the entrance of the river Silvar, where he passed the winter in a small town still named after him. In the spring of 1579 Yermak returned to Strogonoff's establishment, where he received a fresh supply of arms, including a set of colours, ornamented with images after the Russian cus- tom. In the summer he resumed his operations, availing himself of the little rivers Tchsusovaya and Serebranka; the latter of which brought him to the point whence it was necessary to proceed by land. He was soon, however, again obliged to winter in what is termed a krepost, or wooden fortress; his forces, mean-time, were fast diminishing by sickness and constant skirmishes. 144 IBRIEF HISTORY OF In 1580 he continued his progress along the little rivers Barancha and Jouraslik, where his forces were reduced to one thousand six hundred and fifty men. With those he sailed down the Tagili, and reached the town now called Tou- rinsk, and there defeated the Tartar prince, Epantchy.—On the 1st of August he reached Tsaugy, now Tumen, on the banks of the Toura, of which he took possession, and fixed his winter quarters, with only one thousand five hundred followers, but inured to hardships, accustomed to victory, and putting implicit faith in their leader. The spring of 1581 was marked by two vic- tories over the Tartar prince, Mahomed Koul. Yermak then marched along the Tobol, till he reached the Irtish, the centre of Koutchum Khan's dominions. His forces were now reduced to five hundred men; yet with these he resolved to conquer or to die. On the 23d October a bloody conflict took place between the armies—when Koutchum Khan and the Prince Memeik Koul were entirely defeated, and narrowly escaped being made prisoners. The scene of action was at the junction of the Tobol and the Irtish, the site of the present city of Tobolsk. Yermak in- stantly directed his march against Sibir, the capi- tal of the Tartars, distant twelve miles; and on WESTERN SIBERIA. | 45 the 26th October entered it in triumph, received the oath of allegiance of his new subjects, and, from the head of a banditti, became a sovereign prince. The situation of Yermak was, however, by no means enviable. He resolved, therefore, to make a tender of his conquest and further services to the Tzar. Accordingly, on the 22d December he despatched his confidant, the Ataman Klotsoff, to Moscow, with the news and message. Klotsoff was received with every demonstration of joy; and special marks of royal favour were c nferred upon the hero and his companions, together with a general pardon for past offences. Yermak himself was honoured with two rich coats of armour, a silver cup, and a fur cloak which the Tzar himself had worn; the last being then con- sidered the greatest mark of distinction in Russia. Yermak, meanwhile, was not idle. Leaving a part of his small force to garrison and protect Sibir, which seems to have given name to all the Asiatic part of the Russian empire, he, with the assistance of his favourite, Briazga, extended his conquests to the countries of the Ostiaks and Vogouls, near to Samaroff and Tabarinsk. In the sequel, Yermak undertook an expedition for the purpose of subjugating the surrounding territories, and annihilating the remainder of the Khan's followers. Attended by three hundred VOL. I. I, 146 bFIEF HISTOl{Y OF Cossacks of the Don, he reached the settlement called Ambashou; but here he received informa- tion which induced him to retrace his steps to- wards the new capital. He reached in safety a canal which had been cut by his directions as a species of defence, as well as for the shortening of the communication ; and here he passed the last night of his extraordinary career. The inclemency of the weather, the fatigues they had undergone, and the apparent security of the situation, all operated to plunge the party in profound sleep; even the guard was overcome; when Koutchum Khan, who had cautiously and unobserved, followed and watched his enemy, fell upon them sword in hand. Never was a greater scene of tumult, or a night victory more com- plete, than that gained by the Tartars; and Yermak’s whole party, with the exception of himself and one man, were cut to pieces. Find- ing all lost, Yermak fled to the river, and in attempting to jump into a boat, fell into the water, and was drowned—the weight of his ar- mour preventing his swimming. Thus perished, after seven years of constant warfare, this enter- prising and valuable leader, in the night between the 5th and 6th of August, 1584. According to tradition, his body was afterwards found and buried near the promontory of Bagieshefsk, under WESTERN SIBERIA. I 47 a large fir-tree, not far from the Irtish, near which a cross is erected. * * For a while the Russian empire in Siberia was at an end, as the remains of his small band, which had been left as a garrison at Sibir, together with the single individual who had survived the late conflict, and told the mournful tale, evacuated the fortress, and returned to Russia. The court of Muscovy were not long, however, before they renewed their designs upon the conquest of Si- beria. The intestine commotions and divisions of the Tartar princes, who were asserting their relative independence, offered the best prospects of success: and many of the Tartars were pleased with the conduct of the Russians, and perfectly disposed to join them against Koutchum Khan, who was disliked for his intolerable zeal in pro- pagating the Mahomedan faith. A body of three hundred Russians accordingly penetrated to the Toura without opposition, built the fort of Tu- men, and there waited for reinforcements. The subjugation of Tobolsk and Tara followed; and fortresses were there also established. In the short space of a century, the whole of Siberia, from Europe to the Eastern Ocean, and from the Frozen Sea to the Chinese frontiers, was annexed to the Russian empire. New towns were built, colonies were planted, and settlements established L 2 | 48 T}]RIT l’ HISTORY OF in the most distant parts. Those tribes of Tar- tars who were not readily reducible to obedience, were at once exterminated; and something like the same merciless cruelty which characterised the Spaniards in South America, was practised in Siberia. Much more would have been done, and the Russians would no doubt have had possession of all Mongolia, had not the jealousy of the Chinese interfered. The Russians had extended their thirst for do- minion along the banks of the Amour, and were continuing their subjugation of the Tungousian tribes, when they encountered the Chinese who were drawn thither by the same object. From jealousy of each other's conquests, these two great powers became involved in a war about the year 1680, and the fortresses on the Amour became alternately the property of each, as the chances of war dictated. At length, however, the Chinese power prevailed, and at a peace in 1689, the Russians ceded a considerable territory, together with the navigation of the Amour. The value of this river, at that time unknown, has been fully seen since the discovery of Kamtchatka and its adjacent islands, as well as the proximity of con- tinental America, and the Archipelago of islands between. This ceded territory and other valuable points, Russia has never since been able to regain, WESTER N SIBERIA. 149 as, with little exception, the two countries have remained at peace: and thus closes the history of Siberia, till the discovery and conquest of the peninsula of Kamtchatka, which took place in the early part of the eighteenth century. The above history is in the main a translation of a biographical notice attached to the profile of Yermak on a large map, which was presented to me by my excellent friend the Governor of To- bolsk. A part of it is also to be found in Coxe's account of Russian discoveries. To return to my journey, for which I had been preparing during the three days I was in Tobolsk, by getting a new leathern water-proof knapsack, and deliberating the route to be pursued. I felt anxious to get on as fast as possible, but yet so as not to miss meeting the Governor-general, who, I was informed, was on his way to Tobolsk, but not by the direct road, his Excellency taking Kolyvan and Omsk in his way. It was therefore determined that I should go first to Omsk, and follow the Irtish as far as the Chinese frontiers; and thence, return by the same river, and pro- ceed to the mines of Kolyvan, where it was to be hoped I might arrive in time to meet Mr. Spe- ranski, the Governor-general. In furtherance of my design, the Governor supplied me with a Cos- sack, and an order for horses if I should deem 150 IMALAK. them necessary, as well as an open order for all assistance to be rendered me, not only in his go- vernment, but as far as the capital of the next; his power being understood to extend from capital to capital. I bade adieu to Tobolsk, with a greatful re- membrance of the kindness I had experienced; and, in company with my young Cossack, pur- sued the road to Omsk. It is not a good one. The country residences of the Governor and arch- bishop were on the right, as also a large monas- tery which I had visited three days before on the occasion of a fête ; but the country generally pos- sesses very little of interest. At twelve miles I passed a second monastery, romantically situated; and, upon the road to it, many hundreds of peo- ple coming from their annual visit to the Virgin, to whom it is dedicated ; her ladyship having, during the week, presented herself at Tobolsk to receive her rents. At sixteen miles I reached the village of Imalak, overhanging the Irtish, which, dividing, forms an island, and in such a manner as to present a double serpentime view. The ex- tent of territory seen from the elevated banks is astonishing and beautiful. - I descended the mountain by a steep and dam- gerous road, then ferried over the Irtish, passing through a large Tartar village situated in a fine INGEARY. 151 pasture, with some rye corn, and reached the second station on the lofty bank of the Irtish. I found the cottages neat and clean, and the in- habitants comfortable, hospitable, and contented, without hope or expectation of reward for their hospitality to me. Thence to Berezofska, the country appears more cultivated and pleasing, with a good deal of fine wood in the valleys. Thence to the Tartar village of Ingeary, on the banks of the Vagay, when I entered a consi- derable track of their lands, near seventy miles in extent, but without a single Russian inhabi- tant. These Tartars are of the Bashkire race. I could not help observing the perfect cleanliness of their houses, the civility of the people, and the good economy of their lands. I slept most contentedly in these dwellings; feeding upon milk and cakes, but seldom tasted animal food. The dress of the Tartar women is light, if not meat; being merely a plain white shift, with a Sash round the waist to support the bosom; besides this they have not a vestige of apparel, except the handkerchief on the head. The young girls had the hair plaited and hanging down like the Bis- cay girls, or brought up under the left arm, and fastened to the fore part of the shift by a riband. Such is the simple summer dress: the winter, or gala one, is, however, mere tawdry. Their fea- 152 KAMENSKI.-ARAMASHANSKY. tures appear delicate, but their limbs are strong, and their complexion very dark. At Kamenski I quitted the great Siberian road, not far from Tara, passing several meat Tartar vil- lages, whose white plastered chimneys and ovens reminded me a little of those in my own country. The furniture consists of a few earthenware uten- sils, and a set of tea-things: one-half of the room is elevated above the other about fourteen inches, and that half serves them alike for sitting, sleep- ing, and store-room. They are particular in hav- .ing clean bedding, and many pillows; the latter of which are always presented to a stranger to raise and soften his seat, as they have neither chairs nor stools. A Tartar dwelling has always, if possible, attached to it the convenience of a vegetable garden. The women, I observed, never presume to eat or drink till their better or worse half has finished, and then but seldom while in their presence. Reached Aramashansky, near the Vagay, which winds its waters through many fertile spots. At Kamisart I met much incivility, not being per- mitted to pass the night in it, without having recourse to severe measures; to avoid which I preferred continuing my journey in the rain. This part of the country appears well cultivated, and better peopled; nor is it void of interest,- ISHIM.–BOROVAVA. | 53 for the account of its scenery. described in the well-known tale of “Elizabeth, or the Exiles of Siberia,” is, on this point, very correct. Crossed the little river Carasal to Besroucouva, a fine level pasture plane, feeding immense quantities of cat- tle; thence to Ishim, which I reached at four in the evening, in a torrent of rain, much fatigued, and my Cossack more so:—he was, in fact, per- fectly useless. Ishim, so celebrated in the tale before alluded to, is a miserable town on the stream of its own name, deserving remark here only for the incivi- lity of the inhabitants, who with the commissary and the doctor, were all noisily intoxicated. Of course I could get no attention paid me, either as to lodging or food; and though the rain fell in torrents, I and my Cossack were obliged to pass the night in the market-place. Next morning we reached a meat village called Borovaya, where I was hospitably entertained by the elder of the village, who also furnished me with horses to Tusnobolova (twenty miles), where the long-bearded guard searched my baggage; alas, it contained little; and for once I felt ashamed at the examination. They did their duty in a civil manner, but I was much puzzled to think what they could be in expectation of finding. The country is open, and laboriously cul- 154 TOUKALINSK. tivated, and the neighbourhood populous. Much fine wood, and some fishless lakes are also to be seen. I overtook a party of unfortunates exiled for misdemeanors, and compelled to live in this district, which is hence the general rendezvous of pickpockets, &c. At the neat village I happened to be quartered at the house of a newly married couple; and I confess I regretted the law, which compelled them to quit their bed and room for me. To this sacrifice, however, they submitted in the most cheerful manner, treating me with bread, milk, and eggs, and, indeed, whatever the house could furnish. Through a succession of happy villages I reached Toukalinsk, over an uninterest- ing level of pasture land. The wretched external appearance of the cottages is more than counter- balanced by the neatness within ; and if half a dozen healthy and beautiful children be any indi- cation of content, then are the inhabitants of this district most happy. The price of bread is one shilling, and of meat three, for forty pounds. The road is, in general, very good. At Toukalinsk I had the misfortune to lose what was to me my all,—my passport, papers, and every protection in Siberia. In vain I ad- dressed the commissary; in vain I offered a gui- nea for their recovery; in vain I pointed out the rogue who had taken them in the tin case from OMSK. 155 the seat while I was at dinner. I begged, en- treated, insisted, threatened, abused;—all was to no purpose; and I was finally constrained to go without them. By this terrible disaster I was entirely deprived of all testimony of myself, my connexions, or the object of my journey, and lay at the mercy of any one who might choose to pro- vide me with large but cheap lodgings. My now melancholy route towards Omsk was over a similar pasture plane as far as the eye could reach, with scarcely the appearance of a shrub. At Soukofski, the drunken postmaster would have made me like himself, but, in such rainy and dreary weather, I preferred tea. I next crossed over to a little village called Krasnoyarsk, on a stream which unites with the Irtish, now again visible, after an absence of two hundred miles. I at last got view of the fortress of Omsk, and hav- ing reached the Irtish, passed from a most dreary into a highly fertile corn country, and finally, in a ferry over the Om, I entered the city by a meat bridge, at five in the evening. On my arrival, I of course presented myself to the Ispravnick, or head commissary, and made known my loss in as good language as I could. I failed in making him understand me, but he humanely gave me good lodgings until he could procure the presence of one of the military 156 OMSK. officers, to act as interpreter. This was done the next day. In the mean time, I addressed a letter to the Governor-general and Governor of Tobolsk, requesting an attested copy of the documents I had lost, and which I had taken the precaution to have made there. The police- master invited me to dine with him, though he confessed he could not understand either my object or character. He was, however, soon satisfied by the arrival of an express with my passports, &c. all complete. Thus was I, from a state of suspicion and surveillance, again re- stored to society. I should be very ungrateful, were I not to do justice here to the conduct of the commissary, who kindly went eighty miles, upon my account, to enforce the return of the papers, which being in a tin case, induced the party to suspect money was there. All that I had was, however, in my knapsack, and that did not amount to five pounds. I dined the second day with the chiefs of the district, when a committee of the merchants attended to re- quest my acceptance of a commercial commission to the Kirguise and Calmuck's country, being given to understand I could speak those lam- guages from having formerly traded with them. Here, then, was a captain of the British navy, in the heart of Siberia, converted into a Tartar OMSR. 157 trader. I humoured the joke, and demanded the per-centage. They made their offer, and my demand exceeding it by from twenty to thirty per cent, I was of course not employed. In the evening, I received a polite invitation from Baron Klotte, the general then commanding the military corps of Siberia. It is proper to ob- serve that the worthy Baron honoured me with this compliment before I had recovered my papers, and solely with the view of benefiting and pro- tecting a stranger. Peace to his manes' he is numbered with the dead, leaving a wife and very large family, with slender means to maintain existence. I passed in the garrison three plea- Sant days, conversing in the French language, which I found both ladies and gentlemen under- stood well. Feasts and fêtes were given to me by the first individuals, all of whom vied in ex- emplifying to me the boundless hospitality and friendship of their nation. Omsk is placed at the junction of the Irtish and Om. Previous to the invention of cannon, it was, no doubt, a strong place, and even at present, considering the means of those by whom alone it can be attacked, may be deemed im- pregnable. It has a garrison of four thousand men, with a flying artillery of forty pieces. It may be divided into fortress, town, and suburbs. 158 OMSK. The first is the most considerable, and is in fact a neat place, the buildings, barracks, &c. being constructed generally of brick, and sur. rounded by a good mud wall and ditch, which will ere long have cannon mounted upon it. The military college is a noble foundation upon the Lancasterian system, and was established immediately on his Imperial Majesty's return from his visit to England. Wonderful profi- ciency has been attained by several of its pupils, now young men, and the general improvement reflects credit on all concerned in its management. The youth are instructed, besides reading, writ- ing, and arithmetic, in drawing, mathematics, fortification, and algebra, and in some of the oriental languages. The barracks for the boys, their food, clothing, bedding, &c., are in excel- lent order; and every praise is due to the atten- tion and benevolence of the commandant, Col. Ivanoff, who is considered by them as a father. They are composed of the children of the mili- tary forming the army of Siberia. The school for the children of the Cossacks is on a similarly benevolent plan, although not quite so forward, from the want of good masters. The town and suburbs have some meat buildings, but are not otherwise remarkable. The united population is seven thousand five hundred. THE KIRGUISE. } 59 Omsk was one of the strong places of the Tartars, and successfully withstood the attacks of the great Yermak. The country round is fertile as to its soil, though not extensively cul- tivated: it is one vast plane as level as a floor. The fortress is north, and the town south of the Om, but both are east of the Irtish. Opposite is the territory of the wandering Kirguise, pre- senting no appearance of cultivation or dwellings. A considerable trade is carried on with them, as also with the Calmucks to the south, which consists in the barter of cattle, &c. for tobacco and spirits. Several children of each of these tribes are to be seen in Omsk, who are slaves, having been sold by their parents for a pound of tobacco, or a glass of spirits. They are, how- ever, in this degraded condition, better off than when wandering the inhospitable deserts. The Kirguise are divided into three hordes, all more or less tributary to Russia, although they have Khans of their own. They are all wan- derers over the countries between Omsk and the Caspian sea. Their occupations consist in hunting, fishing, and breeding cattle, and of the latter they have immense droves in this vicinity. They are not considered nice in the mode of acquiring them, and have even been accused of kidnapping and selling christians: an accu- i 60 THE CALMUCKS. sation not improbable from the example set them. They continue only so long in a place as there is forage for their beasts, getting, in winter, as near the woods as possible, for the advantage of fuel, though, in most parts, the dried dung of their cattle provides a ready and efficient substitute. I saw one of their chiefs, a good-looking fellow, but very filthy; and in- deed, they are in general the most miserable and filthy race I ever beheld, scarcely, during the warm weather, affording themselves a pair of trowsers for mere decency. One large iron kettle, with wooden spoons, constitutes the fur- niture of their more wretched tent. They are, however, excellent horsemen, and are supposed to be descended from the Mongoles and Tar- tars. Their language is peculiar to themselves. The Calmucks who, like them, make no scru- ple to dispose of their children upon any mo- mentary distress, or want of spirits, are yet a different race, both with respect to features and origin. They are, however, their equals in idle- ness and filth, and follow the same vagabond way of life. The Calmucks are, notwithstanding, the direct descendants of the Mongoles, who emigrated hither after the destruction of their empire. Very few are subject to Russia, a great. part of them living in Chinese Mongolia, while THE CALM UCKS. 161 the rest of them, under the protection of Russia, roam about the countries situate between the Don and Volga, and the Ural mountains. Their features will for ever mark them in whatever part of the world—the flat face, small and elon- gated eyes, broad nose, high cheek bones, thick lips, and brownish yellow complexion, are sure signs of their Mongolian descent. They are obliging, but inquisitive and dishonest; yet, with a little Russian education and discipline, they make good servants. I ate and drank with them, as also with the Kirguise, upon roasted meat, without bread, or any thing else, save a glass of spirits and a pipe of tobacco. Thus much of the two people whom I shall meet upon my next journey along the Irtish. I departed with a military cossack, and a protec- tion from Baron Klotte, addressed to all the gene- ral, field, and subaltern officers of the army of Siberia, accompanied with a discretionary power to call out horses. I reached the second station, twenty miles, and halted for the night: the third station, Achinskaye, is a large village, with a ditch and redoubt, for defence against bows and arrows. The neighbourhood of the fourth sta- tion abounds in horses, bullocks, sheep, and Camels. I reached the twelfth, one hundred and fifty miles from Omsk, without any thing of VO I,. I. M 162 JELIEZINSKAYA. interest. It is called Jeliezinskaya fortress, having a commandant, and garrison of two hundred and fifty men, and twelve pieces of flying artillery, to defend it. It is a meat little town, surrounded by a mud wall and ditch, with a ponderous gateway, which gives it a martial appearance; nor is the situation void of interest, although placed upon a desolate tract, Where wilds immeasurably spread, Seem lengthening as I go. The distant parts of the Kirguise lands boast some eminences, and a considerable quantity of wood; the road is good, and living cheap, fish particularly being very abundant. The road still lies along the right bank of the Irtish, and the several villages are purely military, to keep up the communication between the frontier fortresses and Omsk; a non-commissioned officer and twelve or twenty men residing in each. Their dwellings are good, and excellent vegetables are produced in the gardens; a great advantage over the fort of Omsk, where the soldiers have either too much work, or are too idle to attend to the production of vegetables, notwithstanding they are greatly needed as an anti-scorbutic, great ravages being made by that disorder among JELIEZINSKA YA. 163 the soldiers, who at present subsist entirely on dried meat, bread, and brandy. I dined with the commandant, a German, and resumed my journey amongst a number of Kirguise tents, and immense herds of cattle. One of these wanderers I induced to sing; but, though the air was musical enough, its words, as I understood, and the accompanying actions, as I could perceive, were much too obscene. At the fourth station, I was favoured with a drive by a young lass of seventeen ; and, if she manages her husband as well as she did the horses and the whip, I should scarcely envy him his fortune; though, indeed, she was a person- able girl, and had secured my gratitude by Officiating as postilion. The fifth station is marked by much corn-land.—I dined with two of the Kirguise chiefs, who had come to take account of their property. Their appearance was handsome and manly : a long robe of blue cloth, beautifully embroidered and fastened round the waist by a highly polished silver belt, from which was suspended a dagger, a knife, a pipe, and what in England might be termed a tinder- box; a shirt of coloured cotton, large Tartar trowsers, and boots to correspond; a handsome fur cap, with a small black one under it to cover the clean shaved head; a long beard, and bare M 2 I64 YAMHISHERR. neck. Their horses were well accoutred, and managed by a long whip, which serves also in the driving of the cattle. They were altogether superior looking young men of about twenty- five. At the eighth station the eye is somewhat relieved from the sameness of the scene, a good deal of wood and pasture-land, with many of the Kirguise yourtes and fires appearing on the op- posite side of the river : an abundance of corn upon this. At the twelfth station several islands in the river, and many fishing-boats, are added to the scene. The youth of both sexes are ex- tremely beautiful, and present the liveliest pic- ture of health : both go unclothed till the age of twelve, with the exception only of a clean white shift, fastened tight round under the breast. I reached Yamhishersk, one hundred and sixty miles from the last fortress, which it greatly re- sembles, although its garrison is larger, being seven hundred and fifty strong. The barracks, and officers' quarters, as well as the storehouses, &c., are well built, and kept in good order. The present commandant, a sensible and civil German, supplied me with a bottle of rum, a pound of tobacco, and some bread. I met here also a young Prussian, who was a resident of YAMHISHERSK. 165 Moscow when that city was burnt by the French. From that disaster a ruined man, he entered the army, and now presented himself to me as interpreter of various languages, though of the six he professed, I believe he understood no other than Russ. His goodnature, however, and general obligingness to me, made him an acceptable companion. To the next fortress is a distance of one hun- dred and eighty miles, which I commenced next morning, alternately walking and riding, as cir- cumstances offered. At fifty miles there are many long, but not very high hills, and the coun- try is sufficiently picturesque to employ the ge- nius of a painter. The distant horizon to the North shewed the Irtish flowing in a direct course. Nearer hand it meanders beautifully, serpentining through the pasture grounds, to which some natural hedges gave the most inte- resting appearance. A solitary Kirguise village of movable tents stood in the centre, the river winding almost round it, and forming somewhat of a peninsula as in the annexed cut, West South ~ 22 N Otút – \ºs ar ,’ ... ----- A 2- 2' Co-sº East 166 GLOUKHLO.F.—SE MIPALATINSK. the V being the site of the dwellings. Vast herds of cattle were grazing beyond the village; the sun was setting as it were in clouds of fire; while the moon, standing in the south, added a peculiar feature to the silence and solitude of the scene. To the tenth station I trudged over bad roads, in worse weather, and through a dreary and un- productive country. On reaching the thirteenth station, however, high lands to the south began to revive me with their appearance, and break the sameness of the scene. I stopped at Gloukhof a little unwell, from having been wet twenty-four hours; a small cabin received me, whose civil landlord and his handsome daughter readily furnished me with bread, rice, and milk, and a comfortable bed, Next day started for Semipalatinsk, which I reached at noon, having crossed some sand-hills. Semipalatinsk is also a fortress with near one thousand soldiers and a commandant. It is a meat town, and has a military school upon the Lancasterian system, instructing four hundred boys; a circumstance of pleasing reflection to an English mind, to find her own benevolent ideas adopted even here, in a tract of country removed by its situation from almost every ac- cess to civilization. The establishment is in its SE MIPALATINSK. 167 infancy, and from this, and a great want of capable masters, exhibits no great proficiency beyond reading and writing. The town, inde- pendent of the military, numbers about two thousand inhabitants, who carry on an incon- siderable trade with their southern neighbours. It stands on a pleasant eminence, commanding a fine view of the lofty mountains to the south. I was hospitably entertained by the comman- dant, who lives in a respectable style. The sur- rounding country is void of cultivation, and in- fested with robbers, who commit serious depre- dations, an instance of which occurred while I was at dinner ; a poor pedlar being robbed of two thousand roubles, or one hundred pounds, and his horse, neither of which there is any chance of his recovering. There is evidently something incorrect, but which I could not fa- thom, in the administration of justice, as it re- spects the punishment of robbers; but there is no doubt that a due per-centage on the lost pro- perty, applied in a certain manner, will procure its restoration. This, indeed, appears as open a countenance of the crime as can well be ima- gined; yet such is the fact. If no fee is given, little exertion is made, and the numerous com- plaints on this subject have hitherto been of no effect. 168 SF MIPALATINSK. I quitted Semipalatinsk late in the evening, and directed my steps for Ubinsk along the banks of a little stream which gives name to the fortress, and which unites with the Irtish. I had entered a kibitka which was passing the same way, and at some distance observed the postilion turn off suddenly to the right. My mind misgave me, be- cause in no instance before had I deviated from the high-road. I recollected, also, that the Cos- Sack and postilion were both half drunk, and had been in earnest and secret conversation ; I there- fore determined to quit by a short movement. It was ten at might, and we were in a low thick brushwood, when taking my knapsack, I suddenly quitted the vehicle, informing them, as well as I could by signs, and an obstimate persistance not to go their way, that if they were bound as they had pretended they would follow me. I continued alone, and regained the main road; the vehicle also tacked and came after me, but I refused to re-enter it, and marched on to the next station, keeping them at a respectful distance all the way. On my arrival, I discharged the Cossack, with- out, however, reporting his conduct to the Ger- man commandant, as I perhaps ought to have done. My hostess for the night was in a most unamiable temper, seeming to partake of the dis- appointment of the two fellows; for which her POY ANOYARSK. —UBINSK. | 69 husband, a corporal, gave her a sound drubbing, with a stick “bigger than his thumb.” In the afternoon of the next day, I crossed the Irtish, after a hard walk of thirty miles. The country low and wet from smart showers, in the evening I reached Poyanoyarsk, and here first saw melons in this country. These, which are of a prodigious size, form, with cucumbers and bread, the general summer diet of the inhabitants. They sell at one copec each, that is ten for a penny, a price which certainly does not render to the grower any thing beyond the barest sub- sistence; for five guineas I might have loaded a ship with them. I received a great many as pre- sents, but left them as useless to one in my situ- ation. The cucumbers are also very fine, and equally cheap, being one hundred for a penny: and good wholesome brown bread at five pence for forty pounds. Whether from perfect hospi- tality or abundance I know not, I suppose from both, but I certainly never was better entertained. Next day I reached Ubinsk, a vile dirty place, called here a town. I had before passed some distant elevated lands on the Kirguise side, and here, I think, may be said to commence that chain of lofty mountains which divides the empires of Russia and China. Having procured another Cossack, I continued along the Irtish for Ustka- i.70 UVAROVA. menogorsk, the country on the west presenting some fine hill and dale, with mountainous breaks in the back ground, while the Russian side is still a level steppe. Corn fields lie at intervals along the road to the river Uba, which unites with the Irtish opposite to a bluff projecting point, and hence occasions a strong cross current and rapid. It was late when I reached it, yet, being anxious to get on, . I determined to cross the stream, against the remonstrances of the natives. The ferry, or horse-boat, being out of repair, I was advised to wait at the village; but seeing a canoe, I determined on trying how far it would assist me. My knapsack and various parts of saddlery I skulled over in safety, with my Cossack, the inhabitants sending their horses at the same time, and actually tying two to the canoe, which had nearly proved fatal to the whole. I, however, reached in safety, and a traveller on the opposite bank gave me the use of his téléga to proceed upon my journey, not being himself able to take it across the river. The night was dull and rainy, but the moon being near her full, we got on tolerably well, and at eight in the morning I reached Uvarova, whence I again began to enjoy my travels; for that unproductive and almost endless flat which extends from Ubinsk to Tobolsk and the Frozen UST KAMENOGORSK. | 7 | Sea, and from the Ural chain far eastward of Tomsk, is now succeeded by a beautiful variety of hilly country, much cultivation, and some forest spots. Many bold and picturesque bluffs run into the river, rushing as it were through the valleys, and forming strong eddies as they pass the islands with which the river is interspersed. I reached Ustkamenogorsk in the early part of the second evening, having crossed a sort of broken chain of hills. The scenery in general was, however, very beautiful and wild; to the right one of the peaks lifts its snow-clad head, and is visible at the dis- tance of one hundred miles. Ustkamenogorsk is placed in a vast level valley, bounded east and west by lofty distant mountains, and the whole forms a rich and striking panorama. The fortress is like others hereabouts, a bare mud wall, yet keeps a commandant and three hundred soldiers in Snug but useless quarters, occupied in cutting hay, and feeding upon the poor peasantry. Very fine timber is brought here from a dis- tance of twenty miles, but the country is other- wise sterile. I quitted it for Boukhtarma next morning. The first station was over a moun- tainous road, offering the most abundant treasures to the botanist and mineralogist; thence to Fek- listouska twelve miles, and to Severnoy ten, over One of the most romantic countries in the world, l 72 BOUKHT.A.R.M.A. sometimes along the banks of the rapid Ulba, then across deep and dangerous ravines, tremen- dous precipices, and fertile valleys, where a few Tartar peasants tending their flocks and herds were the only signs of any thing beside the imme- diate works of the Creator. Some slender birch and green fir-trees arrest the attention on the almost trackless path. The scene was too fine to sleep in, and I continued to Alexandrofskoy, twelve miles farther, to witness a repetition of the magnificence I had left behind. It was in- deed a scene to be enjoyed—at the close of the evening, in the middle of the month of August, and when both the great luminaries of heaven were just seen peeping above the distant hills, one rising from the east the other setting in the west, and not a sound was to be heard save the mur- mur of the Ulba winding towards the east. The night was cold but beautiful, and a heavy dew falling on the most elevated parts, seemed to cast a melancholy shade over the valleys below. All nature seemed to smile upon me as I trotted over the ground, meditating upon the perfect beauty of so deserted and unfrequented a spot. My re- verie continued till midnight, when I reached the village. Thence on horseback to Boukhtarma, fifteen miles, arriving early in the morning. The way was still exceedingly beautiful, being over a BOU KHTARMINSK. I 73 mountainous tract, now on the summit and then in a close valley, every where overhung by birch- trees. A few corn fields also appeared in the last stage before I reached the fortress. Boukhtarma stands on the right bank of the Irtish, in one of the most romantic spots in the universe. It is environed by the noblest moun- tains, which yet appear to have no other con- nexion with each other than that of standing to- gether on the same globe: they are in fact so many beautiful hills placed on a perfectly level plane, so that a traveller may go round them without an ascent or descent of ten perpendicular feet. From this may be imagined the romantic beauty of the valleys which intervene: not a tree, nor a shrub, nor a habitation is to be seen, save only in the fortress;–nothing but grass. The val- ley is one continued carpet of herbage, forming, in contrast with the sterile mountains, a picturesque solitude, undisturbed, except during the night, by the barking of the wolves and other wild animals. I drank tea with the commandant, and called on the administrator of the customs, to whom I had a commendatory letter. I found him civil, obliging, and tolerably educated, - consequently a rare plant in such a place. I accompanied him to view what is deemed an object of curiosity in this part of the world; it is a large sand-stone 174 BOUKHTARMINSK. near the bank of the river, on which are imprint- ed the marks of the feet of a man and of a horse; they are in a perfect state, and to all appearance have been formed by nature. The heels are to- wards the river, the feet of the man in advance of those of the horse about thirty inches, very well representing the situation of the feet of a man holding the horse. I could gather nothing of its origin beyond the silly tradition of the place. It is evident, however, from the situation of this stone, that the river has changed its course. The fortress, though it maintains a command- ant, with a garrison of three hundred men, is a miserable place, the worst along the whole fron- tier line; nor is the village better. The Kirguise commit great havoc among the cattle, stealing great numbers, of which not more than one-half are, in any circumstances, restored. A consider- able trade might be established at this point be- tween the Russian and Chinese empires, but for the obstinacy, ignorance, and policy of the latter nation, who will not change the route by which their forefathers travelled. The advantage of the alteration would be sufficiently apparent from the mere fact of the lesser distance from Pekin to Boukhtarminsk, than from that city to Kiatka and Tobolsk. But the main circumstance is, that by adopting Boukhtarminsk as the entrepôt of the BOU KHTARMINSK. | 75 sational commodities, no less than three thousand miles of land-carriage would be saved, as on both sides the produce might go the whole distance betwixt St. Petersburg and Boukhtarminsk by water : the effect to both would evidently be a very considerable saving, principally indeed to the Russians, on which account the Chinese would rather waive their own advantage than consent to the arrangement. Against this measure it is argued, that the go- vernment of Irkutsk would be materially injured. This is by no means clear; and even if true, the benefit of the public should not be put in compe- tition with that of half a dozen rich merchants, who might still maintain a trade to supply all Farther and Central Siberia. The Russian Ame- rican Company must be rather benefited than in- jured by the measure; and, in short, all the differ- ence to Russia would be, that its European domi- nions would be supplied with the productions of China at twenty per cent. less than at present. The Russian government appear to have had this project in contemplation, though they have not persevered; a few silks, bricks of tea, and tobac- co, being the only articles entered since the erec- tion of a custom-house. No doubt can exist of the advantages arising from so local and beautiful a situation; it would have the effect of making 176 VORONIA. the banks of the Irtish, from its source to To- bolsk, one of the most valuable, fertile, and beau- tiful districts in the universe. Settlers would come from all parts of the world to establish themselves on its boundless tracts of corn and pasture lands. Switzerland has been called free, but will scarcely bear comparison with a country which has no human inhabitant. Nor is the cli- mate bad, 18° of Reaumur's being the extreme; and winter, which begins in November, ending in April. Having procured a guide, I left Boukhtarminsk for the line of demarcation on the Chinese and Russian frontiers. I first crossed the stream which gives mame to the fortress, and then over a good path, entered upon a most romantic country, near the village of Voronia. It is impossible, without a poetical imagination, to conceive the beauties of such a country; the magnificent and bold sterile precipices which are seen rising from the great level pasture base, are, I should think, quite unparalleled; and the noble Irtish forcing its way amongst the numerous islands near this part of the river, adds to the majesty of the Scene. At the village, among other similar luxu- ries, I was treated with wild currants, melons, cassia, “ milk, and honey.” Surely this is the natural place for the habitation of man. The MALAYA-NARY MEA. 177 banks of the river are indented with numerous well formed artificial caves, used as ice-cellars. Fifteen miles farther I reached the picturesque village of Cheremshanka, remarkable as a great breeding place for cattle; thence along the banks of the Irtish, on a good path, over a well culti- wated corn country, I passed Krasni-yarki, and at eight in the evening reached Macaria, on the banks of the Narym, a small stream uniting with the Irtish, in an abundant and fertile valley. The night was so beautiful, the moon just ascending above the hills, that in spite of a good supper, which was ready and inviting my attack, I resumed my journey on horseback, in company with the landlord, to Malaya-Narymka, the last Russian spot on the frontier. An officer and a few men placed here, are all that are left to mark the boundaries of two such mighty empires as Russia and China. I forded the little stream which forms the actual limit, and seating myself on a stone on the left bank, was soon lost in a reverie. It was about midnight; the moon, ap- parently full, was near her meridian, and seemed to encourage a pensive inclination. What can Surpass that scene I know not. Some of the loftiest granite mountains spreading in various directions, enclosing some of the most luxuriant VOI, I. N 178 CHINESE SETTLEMENT. valleys in the world; yet all deserted —all this fair and fertile tract abandoned to wild beasts, merely to constitute a neutral territory ! To the first Chinese settlement it is eighty miles, I would fain have visited it, but durst not without previous notice, and for this ceremony could ill spare the timé. Formerly their advanced post was where I am writing this account, and I felt something like pleasure to find myself within the celestial empire. Their guard was, it seems, removed by the Court of Pekin, from jealousy of her subjects holding any converse with foreigners. The commanding officer is a banished mandarin, who is compelled to live like the soldiers, being denied both money and assistance from his friends; but as the post is generally occupied by a person who has been condemned to death for some great crime, he is fain to accept his pardon on condition of serving ten years as chief of the guard. They have, I was informed, a meat village, with abun- dance of meat and vegetables, besides wild fruits. At peep of dawn I re-crossed the Narym, and getting a canoe floated down to my deserted Sup- per at Makaria, which the hostess had been desired by my companion to keep hot. I reached it at four in the morning, having been carried along by the stream with dangerous velocity. THE BOUKHT.A.R.M.A. } 79 After some refreshment, I again entered the canoe, receiving a brick of tea, and a pound of tobacco from my obliging host. He is a volun- tary settler, with twenty men under his command, who are all accumulating property. The velo- city of the Irtish soon carried me past Krasni- yarki, and I reached Boukhtarminsk at three in the morning of the following day, if possible still more delighted with the prospect; the ever- changing variety of the banks is as rich as the beauty of the inland scenery. The left bank consists generally of bold and lofty precipices crowned with wood, while the right presents a low, but beautiful plain, studded with rocky hills, and abounding in corn and hay. The re-crossing of the Boukhtarma was cer- tainly a hazardous adventure. The passage is hardly ever attempted but in the day time, as there are many shifting sand-banks, and a tre- mendous cross current, or rapid, to avoid. This is occasioned by four currents meeting at the same point of the Irtish, near to the fortress; and so rapid is the collected stream that nothing but poling the canoe can cross it; and if once the boat be brought within the vortex of the centre, nothing can save it from being swamped. It was with great difficulty that I prevailed on N 2 180 THE BOUKHT AIR MA. any of the Cossacks, who, at the best, are but in- different boatmen, to take me across. After great toil and risk we reached in safety —the fault was clearly mine had any accident occurred, but I was too impatient at the moment either to weigh the matter or to listen to remonstrance. Arriving early, I roused up my old friend the collector of the customs, with whom I break- fasted and dined. The place is considered un- healthy, owing to the foulness of the water of the Boukhtarma ; a mischief one would think easily remedied by the proximity of the Irtish, which is only two miles distant; but here Rus- sian indolence supersedes most conveniences. I was informed that reindeer abound in the moun- tains, which also contain some sheep. The horns of the former are considered valuable, fetching two and three guineas a pair: when very young, the Chinese purchase them, and extract a fa- vourite medicine; the younger the animal who has shed the horms, the greater the value. All sorts of diet were too cheap to be named, enough to hold out reasonable inducements to emigrate thither. After dinner I embarked for Ustkamenogorsk, upon the Boukhtarma, descending which I ra- pidly entered the Irtish, a noble river. The crew of the boat offered up thanks for their safe THE IRTISH. 181 arrival: we had come through a close and moun- tainous bluff valley, and certainly there was some- thing terrific in the passage. I need not observe that I was myself thankful, as really the mixing with military sailors was far from pleasant. At midnight when we had reached fifty miles, several fishing-boats joined company; we left them, how- ever, with courier haste, and I reached the for- tress at six in the morning, having been about ten hours descending a distance of ninety miles. The scenery from Narym to Boukhtarminsk and Ustkamenogorsk, a distance of one hundred and sixty miles, is upon the whole truly beautiful, though not a habitation is to be seen along the banks, which are lofty eminences, divided by tremendous and perpendicular ravimes; there are, however, many delightful and romantic situations, but no means of holding a communication along the banks of the river, except by boats. Wild fowl and fish are in the utmost abundance, as observed before when speaking of Tobolsk, Of the value of the Irtish I need say nothing, it speaks for itself. Holding an almost uninter- rupted communication from the frontiers of China to the frozen sea, a steam-boat might go from Boukhtarminsk to Tobolsk in a few days, and return in twice the time. Wood for fire is plentiful, and many establishments might be 182 UST KAMENOGORSK. formed for the preparing and felling of it; while a water communication is ready formed with the Caspian, Baltic, and White Seas, and thence down even to Tobolsk. The soil, which is a black mould, is exceedingly rich. It is to the banks of the Boukhtarma that colonies of Scotch should be sent, and indeed such was the inten- tion of the Emperor Paul, but it was set aside upon the breaking out of a war, and has not since been resumed, though there is no doubt that, at this moment, such settlers would be both protected and encouraged. No part of the world can offer greater or more certain advantages to the agriculturist, than the right bank of the Irtish ; nor rent, nor tax, nor war, will for ages disturb such a speculator. At Ustkamenogorsk I again partook of the hospitality of the commandant, a Frenchman : his name is Delancourt, and he has been thirty-five years in Siberia, doing any thing or nothing; being one of those feeble but respectable indi- viduals, of which there are several, that are sup- ported by the liberality of the Russian Govern- ment. In him I saw the first instance of a Frenchman's forgetting his own country ; he seemed entirely divested of the patriotic affection which that fickle nation are supposed to possess, but which perhaps generally exists more in ap- UBINSK. 183 pearance than in reality, as wherever a French- man can do best, there he will settle. I asked him if he ever intended to return to France, his reply was, that “France was nothing to him.” I asked him, why? he looked at his wife and large family of marriageable daughters, shrugged up his shoulders, and said, “Que woulez vous que j'y fasse,” and heaving a sigh, left the room. Yet, in spite of his teeth, he was still a Frenchman, for the first words upon his return were, “ Ma pauvre France.” I had touched a tender string, and although he is now resigned to his fate, he says that he has been a “béte” for marrying, and begetting an entail which he cannot quit. His society, during the few hours that I enjoyed it, was very agreeable. In the early part of the evening I again em- barked on the Irtish for Ubinsk, the distance being eighty miles, yet I arrived there early in the morning. The view of the country is vari- ous, the prospect more pleasant and open than higher up, and some prettily scattered hills on the plain, which attended me for thirty miles, when the banks of the river became low and flat, and except some hills, very distant to the west, every thing reminded me that I had again enter- ed upon the steppe desert. I enjoyed an hos- pitable and wholesome breakfast, even at such a 184 MICHA II, OFSKY. dirty place as Ubinsk; indeed it presented no- thing of interest but the good and modest looks of its female inhabitants. I procured a Cossack to attend me to Barnaoule, distance two hun- dred and twenty miles; the first station towards which was to Chamanai, twenty-five miles, over corn-fields, and along the right bank of the Ulba, which I was now more fortunate in crossing than before, the large ferry-boat having been repaired. Passed a large silver mining village called Mi- chailofsky; —the country becoming hilly and bar- ren, except on the banks of the river. One occurrence in this district powerfully recalled ine to Europe, for I dined at a public-house, and was expected to pay for my dinner, the first time since my arrival in Siberia. The place is, how- ever, so great a thoroughfare, that it is here a considerable business to prepare provisions for the thousands of carters who are employed in transporting the ore to Kolyvan and Zmeyeva; yet still these inns boast so economical a charge, that in no instance had I to pay more than ten copecs (one penny) for as hearty a meal as I could desire, a meal which was made of bread, meat, vegetables, and beer, or kuass. I have no hesitation in asserting, that one penny of Siberia is equal to one shilling of England. To the next station is a good road of twenty Z MEY EVA. 183 miles over a well cultivated country. On the second day I reached Zmeyeva, twenty miles farther, through heavy rains, and over a hilly country. It is an uncivil and inhospitable place. I arrived at near ten o'clock, exceedingly wet and fatigued, and presenting myself to the police-master, was sent to three lodgings, all of which refused me from my distressed appear- ance. I again returned to the police, and seat- ing myself down on the door-steps, raining as it was, made my supper of melons and bread, with a glass of spirit from the kabak: in this condition I was found by the police-master, who had heard of my being refused entrance. He accompanied me to the master of the house, whom he reprimanded, and actually turned the owners out of the best room to make accom- modation for me. I felt averse to such a con- duct, yet knowing the custom of the country, and feeling what a night it was, I would not interfere, and therefore, after partaking of tea, which in this country is soon provided, lay down with my Cossack,--a mere useless fellow. Next morning I found the master and mistress of the house as civil as they had been the reverse, providing me with all I wanted, and even begging me not to be angry at their unintentional error. Zmeyeva is a large, but scattered place, next in 186 THE KOLY WAN. rank to Barnaoule, in the Government of Ko- lyvan. It numbers from five to six thousand in- habitants, all in thriving circumstances. It has many valuable silver and copper mines in its neighbourhood, and a considerable government establishment is kept up for their use, and for re- ducing the ore to silver, which is said to be found here purer than in any other part of the govern- ment; but I did not wait to view the works, being anxious to reach Barnaoule. Arrived at Saukas, I discharged the Cossack as a saucy and , useless fellow, who had flattered himself I could not do without him. In general they are more plague than profit : though I am willing to make allowance for the unpleasantness of travelling with a capricious stranger, and this too in rainy wea- ther, and over bad roads, without being permitted to ride but at his pleasure. In the evening I reached the river Kolyvan, beyond which is a ro- mantic looking country, inhabited by a wild Ras- kolnick race, who seemed inclined to try how long I could travel without food. They are des- cendants of a people banished by the empress Catherine from Poland, about the time of the second dismemberment in 1789. I was, however, fortunate in getting a lodging at the abode of an old soldier, who had lost both his legs, although the rest of the society consisted of fifteen ironed THE KOLY WAN. | S7 convicts, bound to the mines of Nertehinsk as deserters from those of Kolyvan. I was too glad to get any where from the inclemency of the weather, and Raskolnicks, to feel much care about my present company. I reached the fifth station over a flat pasture plain, passing and meeting the greatest variety of vehicles which I have ever seen converted to one use, all of which are employed between the mines and Barnaoule in carrying the earth and ores.—The common téléga, canoes, coffins, cover- ed carts, and waggons are alike occupied : the covered carts have locks attached to them, and belong to the government, and are used expressly for conveying the more valuable specimens. I en- quired into the condition of the people, but could only learn that he who had most horses and carts was best off. Having crossed the little river Aley, I was hospitably entertained at the sixth station by the elder of the village, whose mother is a German; we contrived to be intelligible to one another, and he was so good as to send me with his horses the next morning to the eighth station, near forty miles of abominable and slip- pery roads. I got to the river Katounya, at the ninth station, and crossing by a decent wooden bridge, entered a fine open country, the Obe flow- ing majestically in the fore-ground. Cultivation 1 SS ICAL MAN KA. —BARNAOULE. was conspicuous in every direction ; and immense forests bound the distant horizon. At Kalmanka I was almost knocked up and tortured with an insufferable head-ache, my very eyes seemed a plague to me; I was, in short, so ill as to refuse all nourishment. Fortune threw me into the ha- bitation of an old, civil, and humane man, who Seeing my condition, kindly put me into his own bed, giving me also some warm tea, and a couple of fox blankets. I slept well, and arose next morn in every respect, except weakness, as if no- thing had ailed me. With my knapsack on my shoulders I bade adieu to my kind host, and reached Barnaoule in the afternoon, eighteen miles: the neighbouring country one vast pasture, enlivened by some fine wood, and villages enclosed within cultivated lands. Upon nearing the city the soil becomes changed from a black mould to heavy sand, and the face of the country is converted from unin- terrupted and picturesque cultivation to a thick forest of pine and fir. Descending the hill to the South-west, Barnaoule has a neat and remarkably regular appearance, being situated on the Obe, just at the point where the little river Barnaoule enters it. I waited upon the police-master, pro- cured comfortable lodgings, passed the night well, and then paid my respects to his Excellency, the BARNAOULE. 189 Governor (Froloff), who, with his amiable lady, shewed me every attention during my stay, and insisted upon my making their house my home. The Governor was good enough to accompany me to the different public works, all of which I found in the best state, and was highly gratified at the inspection. Indeed the order and proper feeling of the government of Barnaoule might be made a proverb ; the work in the mines, and all the departments, being carried on day and night. The silver metal is wrought into ingots, and in that state forwarded to St. Petersburg; but the copper ore is coined to pay the salaries of the offi- cers and workmen. The money of Barnaoule is far superior in workmanship to that of Ekatherine- bourg. There are thirty-two mines belonging to the Emperor, and more are continually discovered, so that the whole district may be said to be silver. They yield, upon an average, twelve hundred poods of metal, which, in consideration of some gold mixed with it, is equal to four millions and a half of roubles, or two hundred thousand pounds, no trifling return to Russia from so small a province. The expense of the establish- ment, including the maintenance of the officers, &c. is about one million and a half of roubles; which is nearly defrayed by the taxes, duties, and tributes paid by the Calmucks and Kirguise from 190 BARNAOUL.E. the southward. The establishment, therefore, cer- tainly produces a clear revenue of four millions. Of eighty-two thousand inhabitants which the government contains, independent of thirteen thousand belonging entirely to the works, fifty-five thousand, or two-thirds, are obliged to be con- stantly at work, that is, during twelve hours out of the twenty-four ; the first week during the night, and the second during the day, and so on. The third week is a period allotted for the work- ing of their lands, and this they owe to the good- ness and humanity of the present chief, who has in many respects ameliorated the condition of the unfortunates under him, and who, it will be recollected, are, like those at Ekatherinebourg, not criminals, but peasants belonging to the emperor. The wages and profits derived from this very hard work, carried on day and night, are almost too trifling to name; but a little reflection will shew that their condition is far from wretched. Their direct profits depend upon their actual labour, as he who has most horses, or carries most loads from the mines to Barnaoule, receives most money. They have also ample time to work their lands, and reap abundance of corn and vegetables. Scarcely any full-grown man can be found who has not two or three horses, and as BARNAOULE. 19 i many horned cattle, employed during the season in carrying the ore, for which they receive at the rate of thirteen copecs the pood, - one penny farthing for thirty-six pounds. Many of them prefer this employment, and are actually able to save considerable sums of money in it, especi- ally those who have many horses. The plan is this :— The journey from Zmeyeva to Barnaoule occu- pies nine days, and allowing the same time for rest and returning, eighteen days are consumed in lodging twenty poods of earth, which is the aver- age of each horse; and as each pood pays thirteen and a half copecs, he receives two hundred and sixty-five copecs, or about two shillings, a sum here sufficient to maintain one person in bread and meat for thirty days, at the rate of one pound and a half of meat and three pounds of bread a- day. This calculation is on the supposition that each driver manages but one cart, when, in fact, they sometimes have the charge of ten and fifteen, the profits of ONE HALF of which are equal to a rouble a-day, - a sum sufficient to maintain at least ten people in bread and meat, to say no- thing of their other means in the produce of two days’ extra work in each week. But this is not all: many of the carters, who do the work of others, receive one hundred and fifty roubles 192 BARNAOULE. a-year for that service; no question can there- fore possibly arise of the flourishing state of the government of Kolyvan. The quantity of earth brought to the works of Barnaoule in the course of the year, is four mil- lions of poods. Each pood producing one rouble of clear profit gives the revenue already stated; two per cent. is added for the quantity of gold, and seven for the value of copper, two hundred and fifty thousand roubles of which are coined. The carriage of so immense a quantity of earth is about half a million of roubles, or twenty-five thousand pounds, about one-third of the whole expense of the government of Kolyvan. Twelve thousand horses and oxen are employed, and about fifteen hundred labourers, an average of eight horses to each. The quantity of cultivated land is two hundred and fifty thousand English acres, from which one million and a quarter of poods of flour are pro- duced, belonging entirely to the peasantry. The produce of vegetables is also wonderful, and the immonse herds of cattle keep down meat at a very low price. That of provisions was as follows:– white bread, seldom used, sixty copecs, or six- pence, for forty pounds; ordinary bread, that used by all classes, threepence for forty pounds; excel- lent beef, fifteen pence for forty pounds, or two BARNAOU LP. | 93 . pounds for three farthings; and vegetables, eggs, milk, butter, &c., for the merest trifle. House rent is very cheap, and Society is good. The town is well and regularly built, having many handsome edifices of brick as well as of wood, and upon the whole it is a most desirable place for re- sidence. The city contains about eight thousand inhabitants; and although the situation is not particularly beautiful, it has still many advan- tages, being placed in a noble forest, which serves at once for building and firing. There is a meat promenade in its only square, which is likely to be much frequented. The governor depends sole- ly on the cabinet, to whom, as at Ekatherine- bourg and Nertehinsk, the reports are made ; not even the Governor-general can interfere. It may be compared in rank with a vice-governorship. Upon my arrival, I found great preparations making to receive his Excellency Mr. Speranski, the Governor-general, who was making the circuit of all the governments to inquire into abuses, he being possessed with unlimited powers. His Ex- cellency arrived in the course of the second day, and was received with the respect due to his rank, integrity, and virtues. Two sumptuous dinners were given by the chief of the district, the gar- dens were illuminated, balls were assembled, and every one was happy. I of course shone a con- VOL. I. O | 94 BARNAOUL.E. spicuous object—indeed I was honoured with the friendship and confidence of both those gentlemen. Of General Speranski I will only say, that I have never seen more true greatness of soul, or good- ness of heart. There is in him a certain conde- scension and affability, and at the same time a certain air of nobility that strikes all who ap- proach him with awe and respect. Of his per- sonal attentions to me, I shall ever feel proud and grateful. He had at first taken me for a Raskol- nick, from my long beard and longer golden locks: notwithstanding I wore at the same time a long swaddling grey mankeen coat, and a silken sash round my waist; but indeed so great a buck had I become of late, that I hardly knew myself. As to my shoes, they were better than mew, although seven years had elapsed from the time that Baron Bode had first used them. To return, however, to the Governor-general. He told me that there was an expedition on the river Kolyma, fitted out purposely to solve the question regarding the north-east cape of Asia; and his Excellency kindly offered me his permis- sion to proceed with it. Too glad to accept a fa- vour of the kind, I instantly closed with the offer, and determined not to wait a moment in Irkutsk and Yakutsk beyond the necessary time, but to proceed immediately to the Frozen Sea, either to BARNAOU LE. 195 share the fortune, good or bad, of the expedition, or, in case of any impediment from jealousy, to withdraw and follow some other plan. The Go- vernor-general supplied me with various orders and recommendations for whatever places I should visit, as also an open order “ To the Judges of towns and provinces, to the Members of the pro- vincial courts of justice and to all Commissaries in the government of all Siberia,” recommending “that the bearer, Captain John Cochrane of the British Royal Navy, now travelling through Sibe- ria, should obtain every lawful protection, de- fence, and hospitality, and that every aid within the power of the towns and provinces should be afforded him, in case he should stand in need of them.” With the above valuable recommendation, al- most amounting to a command, and a Cossack, I departed from a town which I still think the happiest, the best governed, and meatest in Si- beria, for Tomsk. Taking the road towards Gumba, through ten miles of samdy and thickly wooded country, along the left bank of the Obe, I crossed that river the next day, on my way to Osokiena. There are in the neighbourhood some silver pits, and some lakes, but no cultivation Whatever. I reached the fifth station on the second day, constantly in a thick forest of noble O 2 | 96 WASIU GAN, -—BA Z II, I, OIFK A. pines, passing many lakes, as well as small rivers, all uniting with the Obe. On arriving at Wasiu- gan my Cossack gave me a proof of his utility by getting drunk, and losing his pipe and his cap as well as his senses, in which state therefore I left him to shift for himself. Upon reaching Bazillofka, the country improves, and the villages are pleasantly distributed. The inhabitants were all shivering with the cold, though wrapped up in furs; while I, in my man- keen, experienced no inconvenience. The view of the country did not change until I reached Prosokova, where some well cultivated hills make their appearance. My Cossack overtook me, and after many professions of contrition, obtained his pardon, and got drunk immediately upon the strength of it. At Verushima I got sight of the Tom, winding over a well cleared country, but sadly bare of inhabitants. I was again overhauled for contraband goods. From thence to Tomsk are thirty miles, where I arrived early the follow- ing morning. In the latter part, the country bore the appearance of a desert; wood had disappeared, and cultivation had ceased, although the road was fine. I presented myself to the Vice-governor, bro- ther-in-law to Mr. Berg of Perm, and Mr. Rosing of Tobolsk, my former hosts. Here also I got TOMISE. | 97 well lodged; after which I called on his Excellency the Governor Illichefsky, with whom, and his amiable family, I passed my time pleasantly. The Governor presented me with fifty roubles, a watch, a pair of spectacles, and some few articles of wearing apparel, making part of the effects of which I had been robbed near St. Petersburg, thus verifying my observation to the Governor of Nov- gorod, that the robbers would bé found, but not before I had reached the heart of Siberia, where I now was. Tomsk is a city and capital of a province of the same name, containing five hundred thousand inhabitants, while there are about nine or ten thousand in the city, which, in spite of several churches, and many handsome edifices, public and private, is a most miserable place, yet shewing every hospitality and kindness to travellers and strangers. The Society, also, is, I am afraid, far from good, owing to the bad example from those whose rank and situation should produce other effects on their inferiors. The town is on the right bank of the Tom, near its mouth, at the foot of a hill which protects it from the north- east and south-east winds. During May and June it is greatly subject to inundation from the l'IWer. Tomsk has a military school with four hundred 198 'I' () MSK. students, backward enough in their education, as also a provincial college without masters or scho- lars, though a considerable revenue is attached to it. Indeed, the only praiseworthy object is a very meat public garden, in which is a building for balls, dinners, and the like ; and on this day, 30th August, both were to be held in honour of the Emperor's name-day. I declined the invitation to this fête from anxiety to get to my ulterior destination. Of the five hundred thousand inha- bitants, about eighty thousand pay taxes. The gross revenue is, I believe, about three millions of roubles, nearly the whole of which is necessary to support the government, thus yielding little or no return to the Emperor. It appears useless as a government, its best service being to keep the roads in repair, and to mark the half way between Tobolsk and Irkutsk. While the province of Kolyvan, at present in- dependent, was attached to the government, it made indeed some returns; but that branch being lopped off, the parties in office, high and low, appear to have given up all idea of being of ser- vice, and have since done less than nothing. Except in point of locality, Tomsk does not appear an eligible place as the seat of a govern- ment, which it would certainly be preferable to remove to Yakutsk, dividing the intervening space TOMSK. 199 between Tobolsk and Irkutsk, deducting from the latter all beyond Kirenga on the Lena, and from the former all west of the Irtish and Tobol, and only south to Ishim ; creating Ekatherinebourg and Barnaoule into distinct governments, so that the boundaries of the latter should be all the country south of the great road. Yakutsk would then be the most extensive government in point of territory, holding the command even of Kamt- chatka, instead of Irkutsk, as at present. The duty of a governor of Irkutsk, and that of a vice- governor, are much too great to be united; and no possibility exists of completing any year's accounts within the year. I witnessed at Tomsk the sale of thirty toler- able sized bullocks for four hundred and eighty roubles, or about eighteen pounds sterling: ex- cepting only at Mexico, I have never seen ano- ther such instance of cheapness and plenty. The province, however, does not produce much bread, being too cold and exposed; that commodity may therefore be deemed dear at its present price of a rouble (or ten-pence) for forty pounds. I de- parted for Irkutsk, in company with a Cossack, and furnished with a discretionary authority to procure horses, as also an open order for every attention to be shewn to me. I passed over a dreary and woodless flat waste, until I reached 20() K () I., IONSKAY A. Koliomskaya, eighty miles. The villages had been numerous, but miserable in the extreme, excepting those inhabited by Tartars. They are Mahomedans, and, like those of Tobolsk and Tara, of the Kazan race. From Kolionskaya the country appears to rise a little, but the road was most execrable, nay, almost impassable either by man or horse. The wood is now of tolerable size; birch, fir, larch, pine, and poplar; but there is little or no cultivation, and no appearance of industry; the inhabitants being a lazy set of exiled Russians. The care of cattle, and the rais- ing a few vegetables, together with the transport of merchandise for the merchants, almost ex- clusively engage their attention, when they are not employed in drinking, and the women have quite enough to do to find their lazy husbands in provisions and clothes. Such was my route the next day to Krasno- retchinsky, one hundred miles. Almost each village is favoured with a small river, many of them with considerable ones; yet the road has little or no interest, and the villages are composed of half-finished huts. From Batoya my journey was rendered unpleasant through a misunder- standing with my Cossack, who, meeting with an old crony, had requested to stay supper. I con- sented, being hungry, under the expectation of ATC IIINS.K.—KRASNOJARSK. 201 being asked to partake; but finding myself dis- appointed, I hurried away. He followed, grumb- ling, and giving me at intervals a good deal of impertinence,—a thing, I must confess, very rarely tolerated in Russia. Next day I reached At- chinsk, pleasantly situate on the banks of the Tchulym, in a hilly country, with its two costly churches, some good houses, and two thousand five hundred inhabitants. It can yet barely be called a town; it is at least a very miserable O}}62, I proceeded through it and many villages, till I reached Krasnojarsk, distant eighty miles, over a road, with little exception, almost impassable; that part which lies between Chornaretsk to Malokemtchoutska is so bad, that I know of no better punishment to call the faculties of the director-general of the roads into exertion, than making him ride the distance of fifty miles every day in a téléga; if that did not recall him to his duty, I think nothing could,—at all events, it would be no sinecure. For my own part, my bones were so shaken that I preferred walking. The stages are also too long; a fault, however, in the course of remedy, as new villages are springing up at every eight and ten miles. At Bolchei Kemtchoutska I met the caravan with teas, silks, and mankeens, from the Chinese 202 BCRA SNOJARSK. frontiers bound to Moscow, consisting of some hundreds of carts. The hilly country continues as far as Zeledeyeva, to which place it is a dreary wild; but thence a fine open country begins, the hills to the north-east exhibiting a laborious cul- tivation even to their summits. It was five in the evening when I entered Krasnojarsk veiled like a num—no bad remedy against the effects of the mosquitoes; and al- though the appearance seemed strange to me, I persisted in following this custom of the natives. The last stage upon approaching this city is richly luxuriant on both sides, with the Yenissey rolling its picturesque course over a soil rich and well cultivated, and the vicinity may boast situations for the dwellings of a prince, pea- sant, or philosopher, the little river Katcha winds at the foot of the north-western hills, and, uniting with the Yenissey, forms an interesting object. The town stands at their junction, on a low, flat, sandy peninsula, and from the course which the river is now taking, threatens in time to completely inundate it, the principal church, which formerly stood in the centre of the town, being now actually in the water. -The Emperor Paul had it in contemplation to plant here also a Scotch colony, but the project, like that before mentioned, and for the same KRASNOJARS IX. 203 reason, was set aside. His successor Alexander has attempted in vain to follow up a plan every way so desirable; first, to the individual emigrants, who would enjoy fine lands, with few taxes and a free exercise of their religion; and secondly, to the Russian Government, as they would have thereby become possessed of individuals skilled in the process of agriculture in general, and who would have furnished the most valuable examples of industry and economy. The town is said to contain three thousand males; but the site is consi- dered unwholesome, owing to the vapours which rise from the Yenissey. The extremes of heat and cold are from thirty-two degrees of heat, to forty of frost—fevers are prevalent in the town, but in the neighbouring valleys the air is mild and wholesome. These valleys abound in fine timber, and are highly productive of the necessaries and comforts of life : excellent beer is also an article of great consumption, while corn brandy may literally be termed dirt cheap. So abundant and cheap are all kinds of provisions, that they find their way even to Kamtchatka. Bread I saw sold at 16 copecs = to 1%d.—for 40lbs., while meat was but 2s. 6d. the same quantity, I was hospitably entertained by the police-mas- ter, who supplied me with bread, rum, tobacco, tea, and sugar, sufficient to last me to Irkutsk. 204 KANSIKOY. Crossing the Yenissey, which is a quarter of a mile broad, I reached Kamskoy, about one hun- dred and thirty miles, over a tolerable road and in many parts well cultivated country; the vil- lages are scattered at every ten and fifteen miles, but there are few dwellings off the great road. At Kliutchy my Cossack exercised his high powers in giving the elder of the village a sound flog- ging, for his dilatoriness in providing him with a horse; this power is vested in the Cossacks by a custom of long standing, but which calls loudly for redress, in the end, I arranged the matter by giving the old man a glass at the kabak. At Kanskoy I dimed with the commissary, late a schoolmaster, who spoke the French language. He presented me with a considerable curiosity, being part of the jaw-bone of a mammoth. I drank tea with the chief of the farmers, a genteel young man, twice a widower, who has a good house and better furniture. Continuing my route, I soon arrived at the frontiers of the province of Irkutsk, which is divided from that of Tomsk by the river Kan, which might with some propriety be denominated Stya, as the convicts who cross it generally remain for life. Should they desert and be brought back again, their punishment is indeed severe, being liable to all the penalties which by the laws of England might be inflicted upon an KA NSKOY. 205 outlaw. The peasants are naturally on the look- out for them, and by force of cudgelling, attended with the application of the epithet “warnack,” or “base fellow,” compel them to return. The term has been said, not improbably, to be used in allu- sion to Yermak the conqueror, but I shall not attempt to decide the point. Upon entering the government of Irkutsk, the weather became cold and windy, or what is here called a Bourea, being, on the authority of the schoolmaster, derived from the Greek word of the same import,--to an explanation of which I was obliged in courtesy to listen, before I could be allowed to move. Having got clear, I continued my route to Ingashe, the largest, neatest, and most regular village I have ever seen. The im- provement, upon entering the government of Irkutsk, is indeed wonderful. The attention, regularity, and order, as well as cleanliness, every where to be seen, reflect the highest credit on the police and late Governor of Irkutsk. This gentle- man has, however, been superseded and arrested by the Governor-general Speranski, and is now under trial at St. Petersburg upon very serious charges. I saw many instances of the excellent state of the police even in the villages on the high road; neither dog, nor horse, nor cart, nor any species of mamure, being allowed to remain 206 NISHNEY UDINSK. in the streets, scarcely even for a moment. The inhabitants of these villages are mostly exiles for minor offences, and are settled in villages on the high road, and compelled to pay yasack, or the Siberian poll-tax. As I proceeded, the road improved, and the country appeared more fertile and picturesque; much fine timber is every where to be seen, the ground still continuing on a gentle ascent, and I reached Nishney, viz. Lower Udinsk, receiving every hospitality possible. It is a small but ra- ther a meat town, of three thousand inhabitants, pleasantly situated on the Uda, at the foot of a considerable range of elevated table lands. A complete forest of fir, birch, pine, larch, poplar, and all such wild productions. Passing through Kingui, a Tartar village, I continued my route in rather a melancholy mood, For the thoughts we cannot bridle, Force their way without the will. Amid beautiful scenery and much cultivation, a well frequented but dangerous road, broken with villages at every eight or ten miles, carried me to an imperial village, where there is a celebrated manufactory of cloth : being night, I had not an opportunity of visiting it, but the cleanliness and beauty of all the buildings form a strong pre- sumption in its favour. IR KUT SK. 2O7 Bilbetie is a large village at the conflux of three rivers, where an excellent ferry is established: previous to the passage of which, I had occasion to demand horses. There were at the port station only enough for one Kibitka, and they had in part been promised to a junior rank, i. e. to a subaltern of- ficer. The postmaster, observing that neither of us were much incommoded with luggage, very proper- ly proposed that we should go in the same vehicle; the officer refusing to come into these terms, the horses were put at my disposition, and I conti- nued on for the last stage towards Irkutsk, in high satisfaction with every thing I had seen, so supe- rior to the governments of Tobolsk or Tomsk. The country, however, has latterly appeared less picturesque, being a sandy soil. On my approach to the capital early in the morning, a thick fog hovering on the Angara precluded the view of it, till I reached the monastery near the river; coast- ing which, I suddenly observed over the dense at- mosphere, the churches beautifully reflecting the Sun's rays from their tin or copper casings. I crossed the ferry, and at eight in the morning entered the hospitable habitation of the chief of the navy in the city of Irkutsk. CHAPTER VI. Irkutsk — Vercholensk — Kirenga—Vittim — Jerbat—The Tongousians—Olekminsk—Bistack—Yakutsk—The Lena —Mieza—Aldan—The Toukoslar–Baralass—The Sartar —The Bouroulak——Tabalak—The Tostak and Dogdoa-- Kabbregah, &c. rivers——The Rasoka—The Biekhall and Bludenayah—The Chouboukalah, Galanimah, and Indi- girka—Zashiversk—Brousniekah—Sordak—The Alazea-- Middle Kolyma–Malone—Nishney Kolymsk. THE commandant of the navy received me in a flattering manner; I had the offer of several other residences, but he being a single man, with a large government house, I was induced by these circum- stances to stick to the profession, and take up my abode with him. Having made myself as decent as my limited wardrobe would allow, I called on the Vice-go- vernor, there being no Governor, who made great promises, and exceeded them in performance. Upon quitting his Excellency I made some visits, and delivered my letters of recommendation, made inquiries as to my future movements, and then returned to an elegant dinner with my host, who had invited a party of twenty persons to meet me; indeed, the hospitality and attentions IRRUTSK. 209 which were showered upon me in this stage of my journey were such as I may fairly say, I could have experienced in few, if any, parts of what is called the civilized world, especially when the humbleness both of my appearance and preten- sions is considered; even the ladies condescended to visit the abode of my host—a single man— doubtless out of respect to me. The company consisted of the same individuals whom I after- wards met at almost every party, with hardly any variation ; namely, the commandant, his lady and sister; the colonels of artillery and infantry, with their wives; Captain Koutigin; a rich mer- chant, who farms the sale of spirits, and his wife; the head of the Russian American Company, with his wife and two daughters; and a Mr. Geden- strom and wife, who had travelled on discovery across the Frozen Sea, in 1809–10 and—ll. Besides these, the parties were enlivened by the company of doctors, secretaries, and half-a-dozen young civil officers, being in the highest rank of society. I retired from the first day's fête at an early hour, thankful for the many favours so libe- rally heaped upon me. Next morning, in company with Captain Kou- tigin, I left the Admiralty House, which is two miles from the city, to view whatever is notable in Irkutsk. The number of them is small, and VOL. I. P 210 IRIXUTSK. they are widely scattered. Fifteen thousand in- habitants, including three thousand of the mili- tary, are said to compose the population. Irkutsk indeed scarcely deserves the name of city, except for its public buildings, which are good ; yet, though I confess it is upon the whole a fine town, I could not but feel disappointment from its total want of original plan, as well as its present want of regularity, which must retard its advancement for a long time to come. Tobolsk is certainly its superior in every thing except its situation, and the singularly fine appearance of a few buildings, public and private. The streets are wide, and run at right angles, but there are in some of them gaps of two and three hundred yards without a building. There are, however, many fine points of view : and when it is considered that Irkutsk has been raised into a government and city only within these forty years, its progress towards im- provement must be acknowledged. The houses are for the greater part of wood, though many are of brick, and constructed on a superior style of architecture. Of the churches there are at least a dozen, which not a little contribute to the splendour of its appearance; and though they boast of but very few relics, I feel certain that their bishop fulfils IR KUT SHO. 2 || || his functions as creditably as any other man of the profession. His eminence did me the pleasure to invite me to a public breakfast, given in honour of the Emperor's coronation, which I attended, and was highly satisfied with his con- duct in every respect. With my friend Mr. Gedenstrom I conversed about my plans. He appears to be one of the ablest men in Siberia, and although rather under a cloud at the present moment, is highly worthy of respect and consideration. He had formerly served as private secretary to Count Romanzoff, when that nobleman was chancellor of the Em- pire; but either some misunderstanding or some misadventure occasioned his removal by the Im- perial Government to another scene of action. He was lately commissary of the most lucrative quarter, as a reward for his perseverance and dili- gence when employed upon the Icy Sea disco- veries. I am not aware that any account of his services have been made known to the public, but I am fully sure they deserve to have been. It is only mentioning a part of them to say, that he has surveyed all the islands bearing the name of New Siberia, as far north as the latitude of 76, and has been longer and farther on the ice than any other traveller. Few men in Siberia have P 2 212 IT KUTSK. more general talent of any description, and through his kindness I was favoured with a fund of the most interesting and important information. During the short period of my stay in Irkutsk, I was variously employed, either visiting such places as seemed most worthy of motice, or fixing and arranging these ill assorted recollections. I visited a military school, like the others, upon the Lancasterian system, with seven hundred boys; it is doing well, which is more than can be said for the institution belonging to the city; indeed, it is a matter of serious regret that in Russia so little prospers that is not backed by military influence; where the fault lies it might be difficult to dis- cover on so short an acquaintance. There is a mineralogical cabinet appertaining to the city in- stitution, in which are deposited many magnifi- cent specimens of the Nertehinsk mines. I visited the prison, which I found in a state that would have commanded the approbation of the humane and philanthropic Howard. It is spa- cious and well ventilated, and the prisoners are allowed plenty of wholesome provisions. They are only chained when employed out of the pri- son, either upon public works, or in the removal of any nuisance. In connexion with the prison, I may also notice a species of public manufactory, or working bazaar for every sort of trade: the IREQUTSK. 213 inmates or workmen are in general such as have been exiled for misdemeanours, and are detained for their own and the public benefit; many of them contrive to earn a considerable fortune, and all are secure of the benefit of full employment. The building is of wood, and belongs to the city, who hire out apartments at fixed prices, retaining also a proportion of the gainings, which are ap- propriated to charitable purposes: their capital is already very considerable, and it is one of those public spirited and well digested schemes which is worthy of imitation in every civilized state, where there are either criminals to punish, or unfortu- nates to relieve. The exchange and public bazaars are a fine range of buildings, with a superb saloon in the centre, where public balls and masquerades are held at least as often as once a fortnight during the long winters, besides numerous private balls. Of society there is but little, but that little is good and mostly German. I must, however, ex- cept my venerable and respectable countryman Mr. Bentham, as also his homely cockney wife. Of all the methodical people, preserving their originality of manners, customs, and opinions, this couple are certainly the most extraordinary I have ever seen moving on their own axis or in their own orbit : they appear to exist between 214 IR KUTSIX. light and darkness, unconscious and careless of what passes around them. Mr. Bentham has been forty years in Siberia, in the full enjoyment of the same proverbial reputation, that his ho- nesty would have entitled him to had he for ever remained a citizen of London. He has filled a ludicrous variety of situations: horse- dealer to the celebrated Count Orloff; secretary to the Governor-general Jacobi ; a respectable merchant; and lastly, a Siberian commissary. A grant of land has been given to him by the Emperor, and the rank of mobility enables him to hold a few peasants, which inhabit his small village in the circle of Irkutsk. As to Mrs. Ben- tham, she has just been long enough (fourteen years) in Siberia to forget her own native lan- guage; but not long enough to learn that of her adopted country: with all their nationalities, I found them a worthy couple; their only child, a spoilt boy, is in the hands of the Missionaries at Selenginsk. At a public ball given in honour of the coronation I counted seventy ladies, yet this was considered as a very small number for Irk- utsk, as they sometimes muster on such occasions from two to three hundred. The truth is, with the exception of the ladies I have before mamed, most of the fair sex belong to the merchants, who may with propriety be termed Jew pedlars, for IRKUTSK. 215 they deny themselves and their wives almost every comfort, save that of a public and ostenta- tious dress, from a spirit of opposition and vindic- tive feeling towards the military, who also on their side but too generally treat them in the same ungenerous, if not slighting and contemptu- ous manner that we do the Jews in England. A Jew in England, and a merchant in Russia, ex- cept in the capitals, or principal sea-port cities, stand on the same level; and I may venture to say, that with very few exceptions, it is not con- sistent with etiquette, much less with custom, for a person of rank to dine with a merchant, unless he be mayor or farmer-general, or unless on his Saint's day, when it certainly is common to ho- nour him with an acceptation. The merchants, on the other hand, have as strong a feeling against the receiving of the mili- tary in private, as the latter can have against recognizing them in public. It is a serious evil that the sons and daughters of the merchants have received no better educa- tion. Many of them can scarcely read or write, yet they are in point of opportunity on a par with those who move in the same sphere in European Russia, owing to the assistance rendered by the Swedes and French, and other exiles, many of whom possess first-rate talents. These ex- 216 IRKUTSK. patriated instructors have tended to improve and civilize Siberia, in a ratio Surpassing that of central Russia. But many years must elapse, before that happy union of Society so conspicuous in England, can be brought about in this part; before the swaddling cloak, and long beard, will be laid aside with the same avidity with which they are now guarded. Yet I do not think it a matter of speculation, nay, I do not think it a difficult task to instil a spirit of literary emula- tion into the minds of even the lower orders of the Russian community. With them, more can be done by fair than by foul play ; coercive or com- pulsive measures will do nothing with the Rus- sian, when brought in contact with his national prejudices. Having adverted to the want of a proper understanding between the noble and the merchant—a want which I impute as much to pride on the one, as to ignorance on the other part, I would fain propose what appears to me, no difficult plan:-Were the colleges and acade- mies more open to the middling class of the com- munity, I feel certain that incalculable advantages would result therefrom: I feel even certain, that the present system of taxing the commercial part of the community might be turned to a great moral advantage: increase of education, conse- quently of morality, civilization, and harmony IRRUTSK. 217 among all classes, would be the direct result of my plan. A first-rate merchant in Russia is allowed by law to trade upon a capital of 100,000 roubles, or more; for this privilege he pays a direct tax of five or ten per cent. per annum; now, suppos- ing each merchant so situated to be possessed of a family of children, and that he were to put them to the college of nobles, and to receive from the crown five hundred roubles per annum for each, (in other words, that for each male child put to the college for education, five hundred roubles should be deducted from his direct tax as a first- rate merchant,) a sum quite sufficient to maintain them in a respectable manner, I am certain the consequences would be favourable to education and good feeling between the high and middling classes of Russia. When a boy had been five or seven years at college, from the age of twelve, and had passed a certain examination, I would have him allowed to trade as a first-rate merchant, for half the tax that other merchants paid, whe- ther five or ten per cent. ; and when such young man, who had passed such examination, should become the father of a family, and followed up the maxim of putting his children to a public college, they should be allowed to trade free of any tax. This is holding out an incitement to, not compelling 218 IRIKUTSK. education: nor should it stop here;—when a boy had won two or three of the academic prizes, he ought to be entitled to the rank of nobility, a circumstance which would have great weight in Russia. Every class of the mercantile community of the Russian empire might be so placed, as to in- duce them to educate their children in a becom- ing and useful manner; a want of this education is the only barrier between them and the nobility, Boys when at school, whether plebeian or patri- cian, form a friendship for one another; and where is the more sacred friendship 2 with them all little considerations are laid aside for more solid enjoyments. The noble would find his level as a man, while the man would reach to be noble : nor beard, nor cloak, nor pride, nor com- pulsive measures, would be resorted to ; on the contrary, the onus would rest with the people, than whom mone have a greater desire, or a greater capacity to learn any thing and every thing, for all classes of Russians, so far from being above being taught, offer every advantage to the more enlightened foreigner, be he Jew, Turk, or Christian. My stay in Irkutsk was but a week, when, being furnished with a fresh Cossack, and with every assistance I desired to enable me to reach VIERCH() [,]ENSK. * 219 the river Lena, I set out, a little melancholy at parting with such kind friends; at seven miles I had a last view of the city. The country became very elevated, and the road lay over hill and dale as far as the fifth station. With the exception of some little corn, the land is one uninterrupted pasture. The inhabitants, Russians, are pretty numerous, and their villages, though small, occur at frequent intervals. The post-houses are good and convenient halting places. Having crossed the river Lena, I soon reached Vercholensk, a large and populous town on its right bank, distant one hundred and fifty miles from Irkutsk. The road is by a dangerous preci- pice, which is descended by horses at a prodigious rate; and on the ascent both driver and traveller must dismount and put their shoulders to the wheel: yet accidents are of rare occurrence. The opposite bank of the river is highly cultivated and picturesque. The communication by land ceases here, a circumstance at which I was not a little rejoiced, longing to be again upon my own ele- ment. I soon procured a canoe and a couple of hands, who, with the Cossack and myself, paddled down the stream for eighty miles, to the village of Ustillga. The banks of the river are lofty and well wooded, and present some agreeable scenery. Numerous villages with their rye fields are scat- 220 KIREN GA. tered among the valleys, each invariably attended by its own little stream. Proceeding day and night in my open canoe, I soon reached Kirenga. The weather was cold, the scenery, though ever changing, was always mountainous; numerous islands were scattered about the river, whose stream ran at about one and a half or two knots per hour; I generally made one hundred to one hundred and twenty miles during each day's progress, and, wherever I went, fared well from the hospitality of the Rus, sian colonists, as well as from that of my friends at Irkutsk, who had provided me according to the Russian proverb, with plenty of bread and sall. This simple sounding provision included also some fine partridges, a hare, a large piece of roast beef, and a quantity of meat pies; not omitting wine and rum. A traveller in Russia, whether native or foreigner, on taking leave of his friends previous to his departure, uniformly finds at his lodgings all the provisions requisite for his jour- mey, with another lodging pointed out at some friend's upon his next route, for as long as he pleases. Indeed I have no doubt, as the sequel will justify the assertion, that a man may travel through the Russian empire, as long as his con- duct is becoming, without wanting any thing- KIRENSK. 221 not even horses and money; excepting only the civilized parts between the capitals. The villages leading to Kirensk are from fif- teen to eighteen miles apart. It has the name of a city, containing near one hundred dwellings, and five hundred inhabitants, with three churches and a monastery, the situation is pleasant, but not otherwise noticeable. I staid in it only a few hours, to enjoy the hospitality of the town major, who felt inclined to try the effect of rye brandy upon me. From it I had gained about five or six miles towards the first Tongousian village when the canoe filled, and we were obliged to pursue the journey by land, creeping round the bluffs, which jet out into them. Over these poor Tongousians the Cossack exer- cised his authority in such a manner, that I really felt as much pain as if the same chastisement had been inflicted upon me. The spirit of despotism which characterizes the Cossacks is infamous; it is infinitely greater, and infinitely more dreaded by the poor aborigines, than the power of the Go- Vernor-general; they seem to have imbibed their power more from habit than from right. At pre- sent there is a law against the exercise of this atrocious abuse ; but I doubt very much whether the government, in this distant part of the em- 222 VITTIM. pire, can carry it into execution. The Cossacks cannot be dispensed with ; they are a necessary evil; no officer, whatever may be his rank, not even a Governor-general, can do any thing with- out their aid—no horses, provisions, or assistance can be procured, no orders can be given, no pu- nishment can be inflicted, no courier dispatched; in short, a Cossack is every thing, and therefore in Siberia he is feared. Whatever may be their ge. neral character, and I admit that the terms Rus- sian Cossack and Spanish Don are synonimous, I fear upon the high roads it is much sullied, and still more so here, because they have to do with the ignorant, obstinate, and criminal. Pursuing my voyage I reached Vittim, which is half way to Yakutsk, upon the eighth day; the banks of the river are, within the last twenty-five years, increased in population in the proportion of from three to five, according to a comparison with Mr. Sauer's journal, which I had with me. Pro- digious forests of wood are on each side of the river, consisting of pine, fir, larch, alder, and poplar; but from Kirensk all cultivation had ceased, ex- cept that of vegetables, and they are but scantily raised; cattle are, however, very plentiful, and of a fine sort, bread is of the same price as at Irk- utsk, namely, forty pounds for two shillings. This is owing to the consideration of government VITTIM. 223 in forwarding flour at their expense for the benefit and maintenance of the poor. At Vittim I was first overtaken by the ice floating down the river, yet not so as to incom- mode me, and I had enjoyed the luxury of fine autumnal, though cold, weather. From Vittim to Djerbinsky or Jerbat are three hundred miles, which I reached in four days. The stages are very long, and ought to be reduced, being a very heavy pull when going against the stream ; but indeed there is nothing that these hardy people will not do without murmuring. Sometimes the boat was so much entangled in the ice, that the poor fellows were compelled to strip and track her, up to their waists in water, while the atmo- sphere was at 5° of cold; I could perceive that they suffered a good deal in consequence, for upon their return to the boat, they could not tell which part of their body to restore first to proper animation. Their great resort, I invari- ably found, was to take a mouthful of smoke from their pipe, not, however, of tobacco; the greater part at least being birch-wood dust, or fine shav- ings, mixed with a very scanty portion of tobacco, the latter article being extremely dear: if to this luxury can be added, however small, a drop of brandy, they will cheerfully, and even thankfully, undergo the repetition of the suffering. At one 224 DJERBINSKY, OR JERBAT'. of these villages, I was requested by the inhabit- ants to proceed by land instead of by water, they agreeing to supply me with horses: of course I complied with their request, as it would save the labour and attendance of one man, (at a season of the year when they require all the spare time pos- sible, viz. the winter fishery). Upon my arrival at the next station, nor horses nor a boat could be pro- cured except at the habitation of a Yakut Kuez, whither we proceeded with a request to be sup- plied. The old gentleman pertinaciously refused me, malgré the presence of a Cossack, who had full powers to call out any and every assistance in my behalf; the Kuez excused his non-compliance with the order, by observing, that it was in be- half of a captain of the navy, of which rank he could not deem me, with only a nankeen coat and long beard—the emblems of a Russian pedlar. The Cossack was willing and anxious, by the force of his baton, to have brought the prince to an un- conditional compliance, until I determined upon again having recourse to my own independent mode of travelling, at least till I could meet with some more willing friend to forward me on. My knapsack again restored to its deserted abode, I coasted the river to Jerbat, where there is a cave on the left bank of the river, much vene- rated by the Yakuti. I ascended with great diffi- THE TOUNGOUSSAY, OR TONG OUTSIANS. 225 culty the rugged steep leading to it. The roof certainly presented a beautiful appearance, being illuminated by what may figuratively be termed chandeliers; formed, no doubt, by the water, which making its way through the apertures above, there freezes, and hangs in icicles from the top of the roof. The scene is very brilliant, but the effect is marred by a projecting crag of rock which overhangs the mouth of the cave, and prevents the eye from taking any other than a horizontal view of it. The air emitted from it was the chilliest I had ever felt. At Jerbat is the line which divides the Tongousian villages from those of the Yakuti. The Tongousians inhabit divers parts of Siberia, equally distant and distinct; from the shores of the Yenissey, Lena, and Amoor, to those of the Ochota and Omekon, and the mountains about Idgiga. They are nearly all wanderers, and rarely to be seen in any mechanical or subservient employment. They are classed into Forest and Desert Tongousi. The former occupy themselves in fishing and the chase, having but few rein-deer; the latter subsist entirely by the breeding of those animals, and wander from pasture to pasture with their flocks, tents, &c. A very few of them have received baptism; the rest are idolaters. Their language is said to be Mantshur, from whom they VOI, I. Q 226 TONG OUSLANS, all, no doubt, descended, as may be inferred by the peculiarity of their eyes, being elongated and far apart. They are characteristically honest and friendly, robbery being considered by them as un- pardonable. I was myself a witness of their hospitality or improvidence, for they seem to have no thought of the future, and therefore readily share what they have killed; yet it is strange that nothing will induce them to kill a rein-deer for their own consumption, unless the party is rich, till they have been eight days without food; the act is then considered justifiable. They bear fatigue, cold, and privations, to an extraordinary degree. They are sensible of, and thankful for, kind treatment, but will permit no one to abuse them. To strike a Tongousian, is indeed, a great crime, and often leads to fatal consequences, as, in that case, they do not consider their word as sacred, but justifiably to be broken. They are exceedingly irascible, and can be done nothing with but by good words; and this I had frequent occasions of proving, through generally my own fault. Their persons are small and rather delicate in appearance, their features regular and somewhat pleasing. With these fair traits of character they are filthy to an extreme, eating and drinking any thing, however loathsome, and the effluvia of TONG OUSIANS. 227 their persons is putridity itself. They are consi- dered good soldiers, and are excellent marksmen, either with the bow or rifle. The dress of either sex is nearly the same as that of the other Tartar nations, differing chiefly in their mode of orna- menting it, and consists of trowsers of the rein- deer skin, with the hair inside, and stockings and b00ts of the same animal; the latter made from the legs. A waistcoat or jacket also of leather, Sometimes lined with white foxes’ or with hare skins, supplies the place of a thick sort of short Surtout-coat of double leather without the hair; and lastly, for the severity of winter, of a single or double frock with hair in and outside, the two leather sides being together. A warm cap and large gloves, with sometimes a guard for the breast of white fox, called nagroodnick, viz. breast-cover, and a comforter round the meck, formed of the tails of the squirrel: such is their COstume, which is almost wholly furnished from the skins of rein-deer. Foxes' skins serve for Caps and linings, and a wolf's is considered valu- able, as the warmest of all outside garments. They have also a guard for the forehead, ears, nose, and chin. Their beds are made of a bear's skin or of the large rein-deer, with a blanket from the same animal, lined with the warmest fur, and in shape like a bag, as the feet are completely Q 2 228 OLE K M INSIC. enclosed ; an axe, a knife, wooden spoon, and kettle, constitute their only utensils; the first is a sine quá mon, and a pipe of tobacco with a glass of spirits, their highest luxury. Their modes of dress, and general mode of living, &c. they have in common, more or less, with all other Si- berian nations, whether the Tchuktohi, Yuka- gires, Koriaks, Yakuti or Kamtchatdales. There is no other difference amongst them than in the embroidery of their clothes, or the richness or poverty of the wearers; and these I shall take occasion to notice in treating of a different tribe. Having parted with the Tongousians, for a long time I was delivered over to the Yakuti, In three days I reached Olekminsk, the last thirty miles on horseback, my Cossack being quite knocked up from cold and want of exercise. I reached the place early in the evening and went to the abode of the Commissary, who was absent upon his annual excursion for the collecting of the yasack or tribute. His house was, however, made my home, and there I passed the following day very agreeably, his pretty, interesting, and modest daughter of fifteen doing the honours of the house. I received visits from the postmaster, secretary, priests and merchants; among the lat- ter was a young Frenchman, who had been banish- ed for some heavy crime, but by his subsequent YAKUTSK. 229 good conduct had been admitted to the rights of a citizen, and is now carrying on trade at Olek- minsk. From Olekminsk to Yakutsk is about four hun- dred miles, which, except the two last stages, I completed in the canoe. It was on the 1st Octo- ber that I left, and the 6th when I arrived. The weather proved very cold, and snow fell heavily ; the atmosphere dark, and having every appear- ance of winter: yet, upon the whole, the season is considered backward, as on the 1st October the Lena is generally frozen over, and in three weeks more admits of travellers with sledges; but at this time I was enabled to reach within fifty or sixty miles by water, although with some risk and difficulty. A noble chain of hills extend along the right bank of the river, with bold pre- cipitous bluffs running into the stream, and with their dark-green firs enlivening the otherwise dreary aspect at the present time. The left bank assumed from Olekminsk, a low swampy but rich pasture appearance, the hills taking a new direc- tion. Upon approaching Yakutsk, the villages become less frequent, and the stations all longer, extending even to thirty-five and forty miles, yet the natives do every thing with cheerfulness. Nothing of any considerable interest occurred to me, yet I felt as if existing upon the beautiful 230 YAKUTSK. prospects and river scenery, which cannot fail of creating a most lively interest. I reached Bistack, and was here surrounded by the ice, and the boat frozen in. Thus situated, I prosecuted the remaining part of the journey on land; not, however, before I had encountered some peril and much difficulty in making good a land- ing; for although the boat was surrounded with ice, still there were several fissures between us and the shore, and which could only be passed by wading through the water, no pleasant circum- stance with 12° and 15° of Reaumur's frost. I, how- ever, bore them cheerfully, conscious that a warm yourte, and a hearty welcome, were always await- ing my arrival. The same kindness of heart which had provided me with a boat to descend the stream, procured me also a horse to ride, and in the evening of the 6th of October, I found myself in the hospitable and comfortable residence of his Excellency the governor of Yakutsk, Cap- tain Minitsky of the Russian navy, who had pass- ed many years in the English service, and three of them with my cousin, Captain N. D. Cochrane. In him I found a most worthy, upright, and libe- ral friend, and warmly interested for my success, to ensure which, every thing I desired was pro- vided for me, although it will hereafter appear that what I now considered as a most provident YAKUTSK. 231 dress, having been put on in a warm room, turned out to be indeed a poor fit-out for such a journey. Yakutsk, although a considerable place of trade, and a great pass for the American Company, is ill built, and more scattered even than Irkutsk, in the most exposed of all bleak situations on the left bank of the Lena, which is in summer four miles, and winter two miles and a half wide, appearing, as it really is, one of the finest streams in the World, running a course of more than three thou- sand miles from its source, near Irkutsk, to the Frozen Sea, which it enters by several mouths. The stream is by no means a rapid one, but rather may be called lazy, as its name appears to import. There are seven thousand inhabitants in the city, of whom the greater part are Russians, and the rest Yakuti. Half-a-dozen churches, the remains of an old fortress, a monastery, and some tolerable buildings, give it some decency of appearance, yet I could not help thinking it one of the most dreary looking places I had seen, though I was in the enjoyment of every comfort, and therefore the less disposed to complain. Yakutsk is not an independent government, but belongs to that of Irkutsk; it has, however, a vice- governor and an independent chancery of its own, who regulate all its affairs, making a mere formal report. It contains, scattered over a wonderful 232 YAKUTSK. extent of territory, about one hundred and eighty- five thousand inhabitants, composed of Russians, Yakuti, a few Tongousi and fewer Yukagires. Fifty thousand of the whole pay tribute, which is in furs, mostly sables. Those of Vittim and Olekma are considered the finest, blackest, and smallest to be met with, a pair reaching as high as three and four hundred roubles, or from fifteen to twenty pounds sterling. Each taxable indivi- dual pays one-quarter of a sable, or in general cases, each family one sable, which, if it cannot be procured, is compromised by the payment of thirty shillings, reducing the tribute per head to seven shillings and sixpence, as that of a Russian is ten shillings. Thus the Russian pays nominally more, but actually less, than the aborigines; the former pay Padoushnie, the latter, yasack—the former always money, the latter, furs. The great- est part of the population subjected to the govern- ment of Yakutsk live on the banks of the Lena, and small streams running into it; no less than twenty thousand families certainly reside on them. The clear revenue derived is half a million of roubles, or twenty-five thousand pounds. The trade carried on by its numerous pedlars is very considerable, from the immense quantity of the skins of all sorts. Tobacco, tea, sugar, spirits, nankeens, cottons, kettles, knives, and the like, YAKUTSK. 233 constitute the cargoes of the traders; for which they receive the skins of bears, wolves, sables, river otters, martins, foxes, lynxes, squirrels, and ermines, at very unfair prices. At Yakutsk, how- ever, the value of them is well known. Bear skins twenty and twenty-five shillings; sables, from thirty to one hundred and fifty shillings; a sea-otter, from ten to thirty pounds; river ditto, thirty and forty shillings; a black fox, from five to twenty and even thirty pounds; red and grey fox, two and three pounds—fiery-red, fifteen shillings; the white or arctic fox, five or six shillings, and the blue fox, eight or ten shillings; squirrels and er- mines, sixpence to one shilling; wolves, ten shil- lings to a guinea; while I have myself given seven guineas for a black wolf at Omsk: the mar- tins which come from the coast of America are worth five or six shillings. These are the prices at Yakutsk, but they are purchased of the natives by the pedlars for goods enhanced one hundred and fifty per cent., and for one-half the price for which they sell at Yakutsk; returning, in most cases, a clear profit of two and three hundred per cent, besides that the traders live upon the poor aborigines during the traffic. I remained in Yakutsk three weeks, making the needful preparations for my journey during so se- Vere a season of the year. In particular, I looked 234 Y A [UTSIX. to the nature of my dress, for the accounts of the cold which I should have to encounter were such, that I considered myself exposed to death, with- out even the satisfaction of expecting to be buried, from the etermal frost that prevails here. Could, however, this feeling be gratified, the satisfaction would be materially increased by the knowledge that the body itself would enter the next world in the same state that it left this ; for every where to the north of Yakutsk, the earth, two feet and a half below the surface, is perpetually frozen ; consequently, a carcase buried in it at that depth must remain perpetually the same. I determined, however, to start the day that the Lena should become passable on the ice. In the mean time I was engaged in such society as Yakutsk could boast; but if I could say little in this respect in favour of Irkutsk, I should almost be silent regarding Yakutsk, where, except the chief's wife, and those of one or two of the mer- chants, there is no society, and indeed scarcely one of those can be spoken to by a traveller, especially by one whose long beard and haggard looks might well frighten them from me: they were, however, safe on another account, mamely, my extreme ignorance of the Russian language. The way I passed my time at Mr. Mimitsky's was sufficiently regular ; I rose early, and always YAK UTSK. 235 went early to bed; occupied, while daylight lasted, with bringing up my journal; then at a game at billiards; afterwards at dinner, always on the most excellent fare, with wine, rum, and other delicacies. In the evening, with a party of the natives, male and female, at the house of the chief; the ladies to all appearance dumb, not daring to utter a word, and solely employed in cracking their nuts, a very small species of the cedar nut, which abounds in such quantities as to be made an article of trade to Okotsk and Kamt- chatka. I am not exaggerating when I say, that half-a-dozen of females will sit down and consume each many hundreds of these nuts, and quit the house without having spoken a word—unless a stolen one, in fear it should be heard. Should tea and cakes be offered, they will sip two, three, or four cups, as long as the Samavar (a sort of cop- per tea-urn) has water in it. The manner of their using the sugar-candy with tea, though per- haps not entirely singular, for the Chinese have the same fashion, is remarkably ridiculous: each individual takes a small lump, which he grates between his teeth in such a manner as only to consume a very small part of it; and thus, al- though the person has drunk three or more cups, the greater portion of sugar remains, and being placed upon the inverted cup finds hts way back 236 Y ARQUTSK. to the sugar-dish, when the party has broken up; so that, probably, at the feast on the following day, a lady or gentleman may happen to get his old friend back again. Nor is it with sugar- candy alone that this system of economy is adopt- ed. Biscuits, cakes, &c. on being presented, are received and placed behind them, on the chair, to keep warm, and their fragments also are ulti- mately restored to the basket. Thus luxuries of these kinds are rendered cheap, for the cus- tom is general, and I have often witnessed the fact, not indeed at Mr. Minitsky's, but at other respectable houses, the inmates of which knew no better, and were ignorant of the chief's dis- liking it. While the ladies are thus cracking their nuts, staring, and listening, and speechless, the gentle- men are employed in drinking rum or rye-brandy punch, as their tastes may dictate. Nor is even good rum a scarce article here, coming as it does by way of Kamtchatka. I was one feast-day on a visit to a respectable old gentleman, one of the council; there were no chairs, but a long table was spread with fish pies, a piece of roast beef, boiled deers' tongues, and some wild berries in a tart. The first thing presented is a glass of brandy, which I refused, knowing the chief to have sent some good wine: this I was offered and YARUTSK. 237 accepted, when I was told by my friend the chief, that it was not the custom to accept any thing of that kind the first time, but to await the third. Relying upon the chief's better knowledge of the Siberian world, I refused the next glass of wine, which was offered me twice, and need not say I ultimately lost it, probably from the practice of economizing good wine in a place where it can seldom be purchased. Great parade is kept up in this part of the world with respect to rank, and no lady visits the wife of the chief or vice-governor without kiss- ing her hand; while the latter sits motionless upon the sofa without making the least acknow- ledgment of such a condescension. The same cus- tom was also established at Irkutsk with Gover- nor Treskin's wife, who being the mother of Mrs. Mimitsky, of course initiated her daughter into the mysteries of her importance: she pro- bably finds a sad falling off when at St. Pe- tersburg. This absurd custom is carried so far, that the priests are compelled to offer thanks and prayers for them, individually, every Sunday at church. Mr. Mimitsky is, however, a good man, and an exceedingly clever governor, equalled by few in Siberia; his situation is, of course, a good one, and could have been made equal to his ut- most desires by fraud, trade, extortion, and corrup- 238 YAKUTSK. tion, had he felt so inclined. But latterly the con- duct of the Governor-general Speranski has put all the people in office, in Siberia, upon the qui vive. . That bribery is still carried on to great excess there can be no doubt, nor is it possible for any man or men to prevent it ; it is the practice, and carries here an appearance of right or law. It is the custom of Siberia, that the chiefs are allowed to receive presents on their names', or their Saints' day. As an instance of this, a new Governor of a province, who could not reach in time to be present at the feast of the commissary, was will- ing to make a good beginning. He accordingly sent an express to the commissary regretting the absence, at the same time forwarding to him a pair of elegantly mounted pistols, and reminding him that the Governor's name's day would take place that week, at which his attendance, &c. The old miserly commissary, who had hitherto resisted the custom of paying such compliments, could not resist such a challenge, and attended the feast at the cost of ten thousand roubles. Here is an instance of a Governor openly offering a bribe, as well as of openly demanding one. They are but the representatives of much worse, as I shall hereafter have an opportunity of observing. My dresses completed, and the river having, according to custom, been passed and declared YAKUTSIX. 239 closed, I packed up my knapsack and other bag- gage, as I was provided also with a couple of bags of black biscuit through the kindness of my host, with a piece of roast beef, a few dried fish, half-a-dozen pounds of tea, and twenty pounds of sugar-candy, besides fifty pounds of tobacco, and a keg of vodkey, corn-brandy, a most indispen- sable article on such a journey, whether for my own or others' consumption. I had besides a pipe, flint, steel, and axe, and what was of most importance, a Cossack companion, who indeed proved invaluable to me. My destination was Nishney Kolymsk, distant about one thousand eight hundred miles, which were to be travelled over in the coldest season of the year, and in what is esteemed the coldest part of the North-East of Asia. All this I heeded nothing, and provided, as I thought, with warm clothing, considered my- self as proof against at least fifty degrees of Reau- mur's frost. The spirit thermometer at Yakutsk, measured at Mr. Minitsky’s house, was 27° of cold of Reaumur, or nearly the same number of degrees below the zero of Fahrenheit, yet I walk- ed about the streets of Yakutsk with only my nankeen surtout, trowsers of the same material, shoes, and worsted stockings: a flannel waistcoat, which had lost its principal virtue, was the only Warm clothing; yet I can truly say I was not at 240 YAKUTSK. all incommoded. This fact, which can be testified by Governor Minitsky, now in Saint Petersburg, alike surprised him as well as every other person; nor was my conduct upon my return the less care. less of the effects to be apprehended from expo- sure to such very severe weather. At Irkutsk, in the month of January, with 40% of Reaumur, I have gone about late and early, either for exercise or amusement, to balls or dinners, yet did I never use any other kind of clothing than I do now in the streets of London. Thus my readers must not suppose my situation to have been so despe- rate. It is true the natives felt surprised, and pitied my apparent forlorn and hopeless situation, not seeming to consider that when the mind and body are in constant motion the elements can have little effect upon the person. I feel confi- dent that most of the miseries of human life are brought on by want of a solid education, of firm reliance on a bountiful and ever-attendant Provi- dence—of a spirit of perseverance—of patience under fatigue and privations, and a resolute de- termination to hold to the point of duty, never to shrink while life retains a spark, or while “ a shot is in the locker,” as sailors say. Often indeed have I felt myself in difficult and trying circumstances, from cold, or hunger, or fatigue; although, thank God, not to the degree which my unfortunate bro- HDIEPARTURE FROM YA INUTSIO. 24 | ther officer Captain Franklin experienced, yet still to a degree beyond what would, in England, be considered sufficient to cure me of my wandering propensities; and I may affirm with gratitude, that I have never felt happier than even in the encountering of these difficulties. Thus, in the present case, I had no second parka, or frock; no knee-preservers, blanket, or bed; an indif- ferent pair of gloves, and a cold cap; no guard for my chin, ears, or nose; in short, I was not properly provided, which I found out too late, and attribute the preservation of my life solely to the strength of my constitution, which I have never seen equalled to this hour. It was on the last day of October that I depart- ed from Yakutsk with my Cossack, the thermo- meter being at 27° of frost. I had, through the kindness of my friend Mr. Minitsky, been pro- vided with a couple of sledges, and every recom- mendation within his power. It is impossible for me to describe the different emotions which agi- tated my breast as I quitted the last limit of civil- lization, of the friends I had made, and of all that could attach me to society; for although I felt a confidence of meeting with hospitality and every assistance I could desire, still to a sensible mind. the enterprise was formidable, going as I did alone, and ignorant even of the Russian language, VOI. I R. 242 DE PARTURE FROM YAKUTSK much more of that of the Tartar tribes. For the means of meeting the latter difficulty, I was in- debted to the numerous people who spoke Eng- lish, French, and German, one of whom I met at almost every halting-place, when the dulness of a Cossack interpreter could hardly afford me the means of amusement, much less of information. The cold I suffered in the sledge, and the jolt- ing movement attending the passage of the ice on the Lema, now crumbled by the stream into hil- locks, soon roused me, and I jumped out, prefer- ring to walk, and though I had my feet almost frozen while in the sledge, the exercise, and weight of my clothes, soon brought me to a state of perspiration, by the time I had reached fifteen miles, when I halted for the night in a pleasant yourte. The next, a cold and windy day, I re- sumed my journey, alternately walking and riding on horseback, to escape at once fatigue and cold, and measured forty miles over a level but well. wooded country. I felt much pleased with the attentions of the Yakuti, who provided me, as I arrived, with milk, meat, and not seldom with clotted cream, at times also with wild raspberries, called here maliena, immersed in it. Such were my delicacies until I reached the banks of the river Aldan, a noble stream running into the FOR ALDAN, 243 Lema. I had passed a small place called Miera, where are two churches, for the performance of divine worship in the Yakut dialect, at which, al- though I understood nothing of it, I attended. A more dreary looking place I have never seen. It overhangs the banks of a considerable lake. The situation in summer may be better; but what can be otherwise than dreary in Siberia during the winter 2 The latter part of the journey to Aldan was through romantic valleys, whose numerous streams and lakes supply a great abundance of fish. They are also studded with numerous traps of various descriptions for foxes, bears, sables, and wolves; and the quantity of animals of the chase is equal to the demand. There appeared a consi- derable population, and many wealthy knezes or princes; who, wherever I met them, were kind and hospitable. I reached Aldan the fourth day, the distance being about one hundred and fifty miles; the last day's journey sixty. My face was suffering greatly from the effects of a cold wind. At Aldan I staid two days, while horses were procuring for the post which I was accompany- ing; but finding them still tardy, I made the prince understand, that unless I had them next morning, we must return to Yakutsk: and the better to persuade him of my intention, I availed myself of a letter in English to Mr. Minitsky, the R 2 244 A LIDAN. contents of which really were to thank him for his kindness and hospitality to me, but which I represented as a letter of complaint against the Yakut prince. The latter took it, though ap- parently in the greatest apprehension of its con- sequences, and actually delivered it himself at Yakutsk, by way of atonement. Mr. Minitsky repeated the circumstance upon my return. Poor fellow ! however I might turn the matter for my own benefit, little intention had I of making a complaint, where indeed there was no fault. My letter, however, had the effect of procuring horses on the third day, and we departed in high glee, as the same beasts were to carry us to Baralass, distant one hundred and fifty miles, which will be the less wonder, when it is observed, that the horses go loaded with two hundred weight from Yakutsk to the Kolyma, and back again, through roads and over a country deemed almost impassable. So tremendous a journey is it considered, and so difficult of accomplishment by one and the same horse, that the charge for each animal to go to the Kolyma is more than equivalent to the value of the horse at Yakutsk. Govern- ment pay by contract for each load to the Kolyma, ninety, while the merchants pay one hundred and twenty roubles: for the return, government pay forty-five, and the merchants sixty roubles. Upon ALDA N. 245 the outward journey the horse carries from two hundred and forty to three hundred; while upon the return, not more than one hundred and fifty pounds weight. The common value of a horse at Yakutsk, for this work, is from seventy-five to ninety roubles; but there are horses whose owners have refused from six to ten thousand roubles;––a prodigious sum in this part of the world. I believe there are not many instances of a horse having taken two loads, and returned again to Yakutsk from the Kolyma, and no instance of three loads;–this is no depreciation of the value of the Yakuti's horses, which are of a very fine though small breed; I consider their powers as inferior to none of their own size, and might adduce as instances of it, that a Yakut will, for a considerable wager, ride his horse from two hundred to two hundred and fifty Versts in twenty-four hours. I think in a late in- stance three hundred versts, equal to one hundred and seventy miles, have been performed by one horse within twenty-four hours, not by any violent ex- ertion, but by regular trotting, which would astonish the sporters of Old England. Nor is a Yakut be- hindhand with such sporter in betting; I never saw a people with more spirit of gambling than these; Who are otherwise ignorant. The very contracts which the Yakuti make with the government to for- Ward on their stores or provisions, are often lost at a 246 FIROM ALID AN game of cards; that is, the money to be paid for such contract is put in opposition to the execution of it—a most serious difference. On the 6th of November I crossed the Aldan and breakfasted at a solitary yourte (at ten miles), completing in the evening thirty miles, where we halted in a cabin about ten feet square. Had it, however, been much worse or smaller, I must have felt thankful, for I had been severely pinched by the effects of the cold and the wind in my face. A good fire, a cup of tea, and a sound slumber, with pleasant dreams, perfectly refreshed me by the ensuing morning. The country had of late been level, but at twenty miles I became en- veloped in a lofty chain of mountains, which I had been for some time gradually ascending, and which are called the Toukoulan chain, from the word Touku, which, in the Yakut language, sig- mifies “noisy”; as indeed the river of that name does roar down its precipitous banks. In the same chain also the Yana has its source. We halted for the night at the foot of a mountainous peak, sheltered from the cold north wind; and as this was the first night which I was to pass in the open air, I shall describe the manner of it, in order that it may be known how far (contrary to my calculations) our situation was susceptible even of comfort. TO BARAL ASS. 247 The first thing on my arrival was to unload the horses, loosen their saddles or pads, take the bridle out of their mouths, and tie them to a tree in such a manner that they could not eat. The Yakuti then with their axes proceeded to ſell timber, while I and the Cossack with our lopatkas, or wooden spades, cleared away the snow which was generally a couple of feet deep. We then spread branches of the pine tree, to fortify us from the damp or cold earth beneath us: a good fire was now soon made, and each bringing a leathern bag from the baggage, furnished himself with a seat. We then put the kettle on the fire, and soon forgot the sufferings of the day. At times the weather was so cold that we were almost obliged to creep into the fire; and as I was much worse off than the rest of the party for warm clothing, I had recourse to every stratagem I could devise to keep my blood in circulation. It was barely possible to keep one side of the body from freezing, while the other might be said to be roasting. Upon the whole, I passed the might tolerably well, although I was obliged to get up five or six times to take a walk or run for the benefit of my feet. While thus employed, I discovered that the Yakuti had drawn the fire from our side to theirs, a trick which I determined to counteract the following night. I should here 248 T'ROM ALID AN observe, that it is the custom of the Yakuti to get to leeward of the fire, and then undressing them- selves, put the whole of their clothes as a shelter for the outer side of their bodies, while the inner side receives a thorough roasting from exposure to the fire; this plan also gives them the benefit of the warmth of their own bodies. The thermometer during the day had ranged from 20° to 25°, ac- cording to the elevation of the sun. The following day, at thirty miles, we again halted in the snow, when I made a horse-shoe fire, which I found had the effect I desired, of keeping every part of me alike warm, and I ac- tually slept well without any other covering than my clothes thrown over me, whereas before I had only the consolation of knowing that if I was in a freezing state with one half of my body, the other was meanwhile roasting to make amends. On the third night I reached the foot of the moun- tainous pass which may be said to lead to Northern Siberia. My route had hitherto lain generally on the banks of the Toukoulan, which runs along a picturesque valley on the western range of the mountains, and is well wooded with fir, larch, and alder. Upon reaching thus far, I looked up at what I had yet to perform, and I confess felt asto- mished, not at the height, but how it could be prac- ticable to get up a slippery and almost trackless TO BARALASS. 249 road. However we commenced, and mainly by preferring the deep snow, as I uniformly did, at last gained the summit, but not without great fa- tigue; a horse could not carry a person up under a considerable time, and it took me two hours at least. We sat down, my Cossack and I, to gain breath and wait for the Yakuti with the baggage— in the mean time smoking a pipe; but it was too cold to remain, --we therefore prepared to descend. As to keeping my feet, however, that was impos- sible; I therefore lay down and slid to the bottom of the most dangerous part, a feat for which I had nearly paid dear, by coming in contact with a horse which had taken the same expeditious mode of descending. The path was so narrow, that one error would have pitched me for ever into the abyss of snow beneath; and although not deep, would have prevented a return, unless I had for- tunately fallen with my feet downwards,--the half- frozen surface of the snow serving in some manner to bring the person up: falling on one side I found very dangerous, unless somebody was near to ren- der assistance. I soon reached what I may term a charity yourte, being erected by the commu- nity in general for the accommodation and preser- Vation of travellers. It consists of a twelve feet square room, with a small anti-room which serves as an entry, and may be properly termed a log- 2 50 EROM BARALASS house, having no window, unless a large opening in the roof may be so termed. The centre is left to form a meat hearth or fire-place, on the same level as the sleeping places round it, which are six in number, and about eighteen inches off the ground, leaving a narrow passage between the hearth and bed places, which are formed of earth, boarded up and planked over : they were indeed very comfortable cells. Outside, the building is supported and banked up with snow, and the roof is covered with the same article, no fear being entertained of its ever melting during the travel- ling season ; the only inconvenience is from the smoke not having a free outlet, unless the door is open, which makes it very cold, and otherwise unpleasant. We passed a tolerable might, in company with some other travellers bound to Yakutsk, and next morning resumed our journey in fine weather; and in this way at the expiration of six days, we reached Baralass, alternately sleeping in Snow, or in an uninhabited yourte, as our progress made it necessary. These charity yourtes are placed at an inconve- nient distance, being twenty-five miles asunder, too great in bad weather, and too little in fine; twelve miles would be preferable, as travellers would then always have a comfortable resting- TO TABALAK. 25 || place at one or the other, at least where wood is to be had. The country over which I had come may be deemed on the whole very picturesque, the road lying between two elevated ranges of moun- tains; the valleys exceedingly well-wooded, but gradually diminishing as the summit is approach- cd, where nothing but the purest frozen snow is to be seem. There are also innumerable valleys, emanating from the principal one, which produce a beautiful effect, besides furnishing fine timber; but with all its beauty, or grandeur of scenery, it is dreary and desolate, not an individual dwelling in the whole extent from Aldan to Baralass; a distance equal to half the length of England. I was civilly and hospitably received by a Yakut prince, who gave me a supply of frozen milk, and we resumed our journey to Tabalak: we made forty miles the first day, by a good road, the snow being hard frozen. The little river Sartan runs along the valley and unites with the Yama. I met a few hunting Yakuti, armed with bows and ar- rows, some on horseback, and othérs on foot. They appear an extremely civil people. The fol- lowing day with great labour, walking and riding alternately, we reached forty miles, the horses dis- tressed, and the guides no better; the weather, snow and wind. For myself I was much dis- heartened, but I felt that I had no choice; go I 252 THE WALLEY OF SARTAN. must, for return I would not, had things been ten times worse. The third was the coldest day I had experienced, the thermometer at twenty-eight and thirty degrees below the freezing point of Reau- mur, attended with some snow. We passed seve- ral habitations of the Yakuti, who invariably of fered us a lodging, and provision for the day; and always appropriated to me the best birth, which is in that corner of the room under the image, and opposite to the fire. We now left the river and valley of Sartan, crossed a considerable range of hills to the eastward, and entered upon an open country, which we got over more easily, the path being very fair. Passing the banks of the Bo- roulak, we came in time to witness the result of one of their field sports, in the death of a deer, who had been levelled by a rifle-shot: of course I had the most luxurious part presented to me, be- ing the marrow of the fore-legs. I did not find it disagreeable though eaten raw, and warm from life; in a frozen state I should consider it a great delicacy. The animal was the size of a good calf, weighing about two hundred pounds; such a quan- tity of meat may serve four or five good Yakuti, for a single meal, with whom it is ever famine or feast, gluttony or starvation. We reached Tabalak on the sixth day from Baralass, the latter part of the Road lying on the TABAL.A.K. 253 Boroulak, varying from excellent to execrable, as we changed from the river to the banks: the dis- tance is two hundred and thirty miles. It is not badly peopled considering the access to it, as com- pared with the former part of my journey. Here we overtook an expedition bound to the river Kolyma, for the purpose of discovery, under the charge of the steersman. It consisted of one hundred and fifty loaded horses, apparently in a sad state from being too heavily laden. Inde- pendent of the expedition, there were on the road a great many pedlars bound to the same place, to be ready for the fair of the Tchuktchi. What will not avarice or ambition prompt man to? But I am not the person to be astonished, who am voluntarily travelling the same road, without ne- cessity or occasion. The journey is at present rendered increasingly laborious by numerous trees which have fallen ; whether from the effects of wind, the force of the waters, or natural decay. It is no uncommon thing during the spring, for the trees which have been left by the winter's blasts or summer's deluge, to salute the traveller in passing, at least if he should happen to step upon the roots, which are almost level with the surface of the earth : so perfectly frozen is the whole country north of 60° of latitude. At Tabalak I had a pretty good specimen of 254 TABALAK. the appetite of a child, whose age (as I understood from the steersman, who spoke some English and less French) did not exceed five years. I had observed the child crawling on the floor, and scraping up with its thumb the tallow-grease which fell from a lighted candle, and I inquired in surprise whether it proceeded from hunger or liking of the fat. I was told from neither, but sim- ply from the habit in both Yakuti and Tongousi of eating whenever there is food, and never per- mitting any thing that can be eaten to be lost. I gave the child a candle made of the most impure tallow, a second,-and third—and all were de- voured with avidity. The steersman then gave him several pounds of sour frozen butter ; this also he immediately consumed; lastly, a large piece of yellow soap, all went the same road: but as I was now convinced that the child would continue to gorge as long as it could receive any thing, I begged my companion to desist as I had done. As to the statement of what a man can or will eat, either as to quality or quantity, I am afraid it would be quite incredible; in fact, there is no- thing in the way of fish or meat, from whatever animal, however putrid or unwholesome, but they will devour with impunity, and the quantity only varies from what they have, to what they can gef. TABAL.AR. 255 I have repeatedly seen a Yakut or a Tongouse de- vour forty pounds of meat in a day. The effect is very observable upon them, for from thin and meagre-looking men, they will become perfectly pot-bellied. Their stomachs must be differently formed to ours, or it would be impossible for them to drink off at a draught, as they really do, their tea and soup scalding hot (so hot, at least, that an European would have difficulty in even sipping at it), without the least inconvenience. I have seen three of these gluttons consume a rein-deer at one meal; nor are they nice as to the choice of parts; nothing being lost, not even the contents of the bowels, which, with the aid of fat and blood, are converted into black puddings. For an instance in confirmation of this, no doubt, extraordinary statement, I shall refer to the voyages of the Russian admiral, Saritcheff. “No sooner,” he says, “ had they stopped to rest or spend the night, than they had their kettle on the fire, which they never left until they pursued their journey, spending the intervals for rest in eating, and in consequence of no sleep, were drowsy all the next day.” The admiral also says, “That such extraordinary voracity was never at- tended with any ill effects, although they made a practice of devouring, at one meal, what would have killed any other person. The labourers,” the 256 TABALAK. admiral says, “ had an allowance of four poods, or one hundred and forty-four English pounds of fat, and seventy-two pounds of rye flour, yet in a fort- night they complained of having nothing to eat. Not crediting the fact, the Yakuti said that one of them was accustomed to consume at home, in the space of a day, or twenty-four hours, the hind quarter of a large ov, twenty pounds of fat, and a proportionale quantity of melted butter for his drink. The appearance of the man not justifying the assertion, the admiral had a mind to try his gormandizing powers, and for that purpose he had a thick porridge of rice boiled down with three pounds of butter, weighing together twenty- eight pounds, and although the glutton had al- ready breakfasted, yet did he sit down to it with great eagerness, and consumed the whole without stirring from the spot: and, except that his sto- mach betrayed more than an ordinary fullness, he shewed no sign of inconvenience or injury, but would have been ready to renew his gluttony the following day.” So much for the admiral, on the truth of whose account I place perfect reliance. Tabalak is the residence of a corporal of the Cossacks, who has the charge of the post, and commands over the surrounding Yakuti. He is married, and appears to live here with tolerable comfort. The country round is studded with TA BA I, A K. 257 lakes, producing abundance of fine fish. I staid a couple of days to refresh myself, and, on the 22d of November, I resumed the journey. The weather was now very cold, and my knees became exceedingly painful, as I thought, from sitting too much on horseback, consequently I walked more, in spite of the fatigue; going over fifteen and twenty miles a-day on foot, and always in those places where it was difficult for the horse to carry me. The first night we halted on the banks of a small lake, where some fishermen wore haul- ing their nets, although the ice was twenty inches deep ; of course I became entitled to a proportion of the fish caught, to insure which, I invariably f partook of the fatigue: let who will make his ap- pearance, of whatever tribe or religion, in Siberia, he will certainly be entitled to food, if he partakes of the labour in catching it—I do not know a more humane custom. The plan is indeed ingenious, and proves that “ necessity is the mother of in- vention.” Having fixed upon the spot, a large hole is made in the most distant part opposite to the place to which the fish are to be hauled, and then holes are also made from it on each side circularly towards the point where the fish are to be caught: the distance from hole to hole about fifteen or twenty feet: the whole of the net is then let down the first opening, as are the ropes attached to the VOI. I. S 258 FROM TABAI, AEC hauling of it, which ropes are fastened to a long pole, which under the ice conducts the ropes from hole to hole. Both ends are taken up at the last and largest opening, and the net is thus hauled: and a considerable quantity of fish are caught. The following figure will represent the plan, the size and distance of the apertures being propor- tioned to the size of the met and length of the ropes: A, representing the opening where the net is first sunk; B, where it is hauled down; the other openings, those made for communication ; and the space within the outer circle, the lake. We halted at a most magnificent range of mountains, running from east to west-north-west, with lofty projecting bluffs and terrific precipices, on lands gently rising from the thickly wooded basis into elevated peaks and long extents of table lands, in all the wild variety of nature. I re- gretted my inability to sketch this beautiful view. TO ZASHIVERSK. 259 The route lay along the river Tostak twenty-five miles; then crossing the mountains into the valley, and on to the river Dogdoa, now deeply hid in snow, and occasioning great labour to man and horse. We were frequently obliged to halt and clear away the snow with our spades, to enable the animals to proceed; at other times to unload them, and drag the baggage for two or three hundred yards. In these cases all distinctions of rank are laid aside, every person assisting and taking charge of his own horse: the only difference, a very slight one, being in favour of the hindmost, and even that was regulated, as the horses must take their turn to lead, though the riders did not. When free from this heavy work, we were almost as badly off, being then on the river, the state of which absolutely prevented the progress of the horses, without first chopping up the ice with hatchets, and then carefully leading the animals. In short, such was the nature of our road, that we had almost to carry the horses through the Snow, and support them over ice so clear and slippery, that oil poured over it could not have made it worse. With all the assistance we could give, and even with that which we rendered them in tying cloths under their feet, as well as a rope above their fetlocks, of sufficient length only to enable them to make short steps forward, and pre- S 2 260 T'ROM TABAI, AIK venting their sliding sideways, it was found im- possible to save them dreadful falls and heavy strains; they constantly fell groaning under their loads, and it was really painful even to witness their sufferings. Three days passed in this manner, and I felt that if ever I had earned my coarse fare, it was during that period. Two horses had been allotted to me, and my plan was, to conduct one of them over the worst part, tie him to a tree, and then return for the other—and so on. The Yakuti felt grateful for the willingness with which I took imy share of the labour. The next part of our road lay along the little rivers Kabbregah, Koudouroukui, Rasoka, and Kamen-da-Maslo; after which, leaving the moun- tainous part, we got upon an extensive plain, and reached a charity yourte very late, having been obliged to abandon one of the horses. I was now suffering much in my feet, on which the frozen perspiration had formed blisters, in which state I had also to encounter water even upon the ice. This, as it appears to me, is occasioned by the intenseness of the frost contracting the ice, till, in the end, it divides about the centre; cold being of so peculiar a quality, as in the first place to expand, and ultimately to contract all fluids it affects. The same observation applies to the ground, which cracks alike whether from the T() ZASHIVERSK. 261 effect of heat or cold; indeed, so powerful is the congelation of water, that it even splits mountains asunder—a fact which is here every where visible. Many of these mountains are of slate, and the rest appear but a common sort of rock and granite; but on the banks of the river Kamen-da-Maslo, there is produced a fossil or an earthy substance called in Russian, Kamennoye Maslo, or stone butter, which is eaten in various ways, as well by Russians as Tongousi—it is of a yellowish cream-colour, and not unpleasant in taste, but is forbidden, as pernicious in its effects, producing various disorders, as the gravel, &c. This earthy matter is found to be a fossil or salt, oozing out of rocks in many parts of Siberia, but chiefly from those near the rivers Irtish and Yenissei. When it is exposed to the air in dry weather it hardens, but in wet weather it again becomes soft or liquid. The horses requiring much rest from their fa- tigues, we did not depart until late. The inter- mediate time I consumed in various employments, chiefly by contrasting in my mind the populous cities and towns I had left with the remote and widely distant villages I now meet, and “those 25 vast and uncultivated tracts,” as are observed by Talleyrand, when speaking upon society, “tra- versed rather than peopled by men who belong to 262 l'EOM TABALAK mo nation. It is a novel spectacle for a traveller who, taking his departure from a large town where society is perfected, watches every degree of civi- lization and industry becoming every moment weaker, till he arrives in a few days at the clumsy and coarse hut, constructed with the trunks of fallen trees. Such a journey is a practical analysis of the origin and progress of nations, where we have a complicated aggregate to arrive at the most simple elements: every day we lose sight of some one of those inventions which our unceasing wants have rendered necessary, and seem to travel back- ward in the history of the progress of the human mind. If such a spectacle invites the imagination, if we are delighted to find in space what alone be- longs to time, we must be content to see very few social ties among those men who appear so little to belong to the same association, so little to pos- sess an uniformity of character.” These ideas, so congenial with my own, occupied me in a melan- choly mood till I rose, and, looking at the grandeur of the scenery, reflected, that wherever I was, the same Providence was there also. The extensive chains of mountains viewed from the spot where I write this, are truly fine; they run from east-north-east to west-south-west; the river Rasoka runs along the eastern range, and is visible for many miles, within the two ranges, TO ZASHIVERSK. 263 which appear to have been torn asunder by some convulsion of nature. I was, however, obliged to quit the scene, and pursue my jour- ney over a country agreeably diversified with hill and dale,_the path lying first along the banks of the Biekhall, and then of the Blu- denaya, where I halted in a most beautiful and close valley, surrounded on all sides by lofty and well-clothed mountains. On the ninth day I started for Zashiversk, distant forty miles, the first twenty of which was by a rising path, until I reached the greatest elevation of a lofty mountain, with some peril and more dif- ficulty. The scene reminded me of my journey across the sand hills at the back of Vera Cruz, with this difference only, that the gale, generally attending both, obscures in the one instance the atmosphere with sand, and in the other with snow; in both no traces of a path can long exist if there be any wind. The snow lay from four to six feet deep, and our situation was at one time extremely dangerous, being completely ignorant which way to turn; not the smallest vestige of verdure was to be seen, and, except a few crosses (another resem- blance to Vera Cruz), which were sure to receive the offering of the Yakuti, consisting of horse-hair drawn from the tail or mane of horses, in token of their gratitude for safe arrival at the summit, no- 204 ZASH IV EIRSK. thing was visible. By good fortune and perse- verance we at length got quit of this desert of snow, and rapidly descended the north-east side of the hills, enjoying the magnificent winter scene which gradually opens to view. I soon reached the banks of the Chouboukalah, and the more considerable Galanima, and then along a well-wooded valley, gained the rapid Indigirka just at the point where the latter falls into it; not long after which I entered the town of Za- shiversk. Of all the places I have ever seen, bearing the name of city or town, this is the most dreary and desolate; my blood froze within me as I beheld and approached the place. All that I have seen in passing rocky or snowy Sierras or passes in Spain, in traversing the wastes of Canada, or in crossing the Cordilleras or Andes of North Ame- rica; the Pyrenees, or the Alps, cannot be com- pared with the desolation of the scene around me! The first considerable halting-place from Yakutsk, the half-way house, is mine hundred or one thousand miles removed from a civilized place. Such a spot gives mame to a commissa- riat, and contains seven habitations of the most miserable kind, inhabited severally by two clergy- men, each separate, a non-commissioned officer, and a second in command; a postmaster, a ZASHIVERSK, 265 merchant, and an old widow. I have, during my service in the navy, and during a period when sea- men were scarce, seen a merchant ship with six- teen guns, and only fifteen men, but I never before saw a town with only seven inhabitants. The distance to Zashiversk from Tabalak is two hundred and fifty miles, throughout the whole of which there is not a single inhabited dwelling, and but eight charity yourtes. The weather had, generally speaking, been calm and mild, seldom exceeding 25° of frost of Reaumur. This miser- able town is, however, at least an hospitable place. It is seated on the right bank of the Indigirka, which flows with great rapidity, and during the summer carries every thing before it. The moun- tains to the west are bold and bare, producing nothing besides a few dwarf pines; these moun- tains confine the river for forty miles further to the north, where it spreads and forms a continu- ation of lakes until it enters the Icy Sea. Fish is fine and most abundant, and constitutes almost the only support of the numerous inhabit- ants. There is not a blade of grass near the place, and no horses are kept nearer than thirty miles; so that there is no little difficulty in bringing the hay which maintains a couple of cows. The planner or proposer of this site for a town might deserve bunishment, but certainly less than that of being 266 FROM ZASHIVERSK made its perpetual commander. I however re- mained three days, living in a state of luxury to which I had, of late, been a stranger. Hares, Wolves, bears, wild rein-deer, and elks, which abound here, were my ordinary food; foxes, which are also in great plenty, are also sometimes used. Bear and wolf meat I found good when very hun- gry : reim-deer I found a delicate diet; but elk I think surpasses every thing I have tasted, having all the nutriment of beef, with all the delicate flavour of the rein-deer. On the 3d of December I quitted the town of Zashiversk, not ungrateful for the hospitality of its poor inhabitants, who had supplied me with plenty of fish, here eaten in a raw state, and which to this hour I remember as the greatest de- licacy I have ever tasted. Spite of our prejudices, there is nothing to be compared to the melting of raw fish in the mouth ; oysters, clotted cream, or the finest jelly in the world is nothing to it: mor is it only a small quantity that may be eaten of this precious commodity. I myself have finish- ed a whole fish which, in its frozen state, might have weighed two or three pounds, and with black biscuit and a glass of rye-brandy, have de- fied either nature or art to prepare a better meal. It is cut up or shaved into slices with a sharp knife, from head to tail, and thence derives the TO SORIDAK. 267 name of Stroganina : to complete the luxury only salt and pepper were wanting. Having charged myself with a leather bag of these, which are al- ways of a white colour and generally of the stur- geon kind, I resumed my route along the crys- tal surface of the Indigirka. My first day's jour- ney brought me more acquainted with the power and use of dogs, although I have seen them in London drawing a poor sailor who had lost both his legs; here, however, water or ice, fish, fire- wood, travellers and their goods, and every thing that convenience can demand, are drawn by those, domestic animals. At forty miles the mountains diverge from the course of the river to the east-north-east and west- south-west,--the former chain going towards the Kolyma, and the latter embanking the Yana; the country between them a vast desert. The twen- tieth day we had passed thirty miles, still on the shallow, transparent, and slippery Indigirka, which gave us another lesson of our hard work. Many islands lay in the river which, during the sum- mer, present a scene of desolation almost incre- dible, from the effects of the wonderful overflow- ing of the rivers. In journeying along the river, my horse twice fell under me upon his broadside, yet without injury to me, as I used no stirrups, my feet hanging at liberty for the purpose of kicking 268 FROM ZASHIVERSIX the horse's side to keep them warm. My route lying north, the mountains gradually disappeared as I entered on the seemingly boundless plain. We tarried at a comfortable clean yourte, where I was regaled with excellent cream and wild ber- ries, somewhat similar to black currants, called here broosnieka, vaccinium vitis idaea. I continued over a flat country, and lakes communicating with one another by small streams, suffering much at times from the cold, especially in the knees, which although not sensibly cold, had a feeling of dead- mess and painful fatigue, which I could not ac- count for till a pedlar explained to me by signs and words, that if I did not alter my plan I should certainly lose both my legs above the knees. They appeared indeed a little inflamed, owing, as he said, to the inadequate protection of the knee-joints, which on horseback are more than ordinarily exposed, all the defence they had being a single leather, in sometimes 30° of frost of Reaumur. I considered that I was still bound to the northward, and that the extreme of winter had not yet come upon me, and therefore thought it better to accept a pair of souturee (knee-pre- servers, made of the skins of rein-deer's legs), which he very kindly offered. The service they did me is astonishing: from that moment I had less pain and more heat, and became fully satisfied that the TO SORIDA FC. 20%) extremities are alone to be taken care of The golden rule, which I have never found to err, is, always to follow the example and custom of the natives, whether in a hot, cold, or temperate clime, they ought to know what is most necessary or proper. On the third day after my departure from Za- shiversk, my liquor was at an end from the effects of a very common sort of leak—it had been tap- ped too often. I could do nothing but bull the barrel, that is, put a little water into it, and thus preserve at least the appearance of vodkey. The mights were particularly beautiful, and the moon was visible during the whole twenty-four hours. My eyes had now become painful from the effects of the snow on the eye-lashes, but I was still con- tent, and moved forward cheerfully to the scene of my destination. On the sixth day, over a mi- serable road, the fatigues of which it is useless to repeat, I reached a miserable abode, whose inha- bitants were in a state of actual starvation, com- pletely resigned to their fate, and only wishing to die. Remonstrance had some effect in rousing them, and warm tea had more, for they determined to accompany us to the mext post station, whose inha- bitants, at our instigation, gave them a part of their own fish, “although their supply of the wants of nature, frugal as they were, but scarce supported 270 SOR 13 AIK. their own lives.” Over lakes, and through low forests, I at length reached the summit of the chain of hills which separate the commissariats of Zashiversk and Kolyma ; then, descending rapidly, entered a charity yourte twenty miles further. I found a fire ready lighted, owing to the conside- rate attention and orders of Baron Wrangel, who keeps a man employed here until the whole ex- pedition has passed. —The eighth day I reached Sordak, three hundred and twenty miles from Zashiversk. This stage was accomplished with great difficulty, owing to the unusual depth of the Snow, and the wretched condition of the horses: mine had failed. The late high winds had also obliterated every trace of the path, and we were frequently obliged to return and start afresh, sounding the depth of the snow as we went. At length, however, we arrived, and in good health, although the weather was now become very SeVéré. At Sordak there is a post-house and a corporal of the Cossacks, with a few other yourtes for the Yakuti, who cut and bring hay and fire-wood, and fish and hunt; in short, they maintain the esta- blishment upon the terms of paying no yasack. They also accompany the post, and other travellers, and return with the government horses. This may serve, therefore, as a description of the other SORDAR. 27 i stations, of which there are but eight in the whole route from Yakutsk to the Kolyma, a distance of eighteen hundred miles. The country round Sor- dak is low and marshy, with numerous lakes, and much fine wood, and is indeed far superior to that on the southern side of the hills. The under officer who keeps the station is grandson of the celebrated Vladimir Atlassof, who discovered, and in part conquered, Kamtchatka. He entered into a history of his adventures, very little of which I understood. He is marked by a vermilion spot on his cheek, and subject to a complaint called Imerachism, which will be hereafter mentioned. His present occupation appears to consist in for- warding a quantity of youkola and frozen fish for the assistance of the expedition at the Kolyma : he is at the same time actually making a com- plaint to Baron Wrangel of the people under his command being in a state of starvation; in spite of which he is willing to sell their provisions. Alas! what will not man do, even in the most remote wilds, for the sake of lucre' Among the guests at Sordak was the priest of Sredne Kolymsk, or Middle Kolymsk, who had arrived to christen some infants, as well as, per- haps, to drink an extra allowance of spirits; for his reverence informed me that the glass was at 43° of frost of Reaumur, (although, I suppose, he 272 SOR DA K, understood as little of a thermometer as I did of the Greek mass,) in spite of the fineness of the day. The sum, in fact, was visible, although I was a little north of the arctic circle, the date being 10th (22d) December: one more convincing proof how ill we hitherto understood the reflective or refractive power of the sum in arctic latitudes, This circumstance I hope will have some weight in establishing the character of the late Mr. Hearne, who can hardly, in his dark age, be supposed to have understood the very mice calculations which appear so to occupy the exertions of the present expeditions: Mr. Kenzie may be found equally incorrect, in not having made an allowance for a modern improvement. Having well refreshed ourselves with the flesh of a wolf and a horse, which had the day before ſought each other to death, we departed on the 14th towards the Kolyma. The first might we put up at a yourte, forty miles, encompassed by squalling children, growling and howling dogs, and a scolding and tyrannical hostess. There wanted only a smoky chimney to render it com- plete. Having procured wood for the night, on the morrow we departed, but not before I had got into a scrape, for hanging my cap and gloves upon the pins which bear the images of worship. The inſuriated woman complaimed to the Cossack of SORDAK, 27.3 the insult, The Cossack told her I was an Eng- lish pope, or priest, and that I was privileged: the length of my locks, as well as beard, was proof positive, and thenceforward I was called the English priest. The 2d day we reached a large and meat yourte, inhabited by two aged brothers who had become Christians. The eldest had discarded two of his wives as a proof of his faith, although the younger had buried three, and was enjoying happiness with a fourth, no great sign of his ſaith, or strict attention to the orders of the Greek church, which only permits three marriages. Next day I crossed the Alazea, a considerable river, running into the Frozen Ocean. This part of the world is most abundantly rich in fish, game, and cattle; and the few inhabitants upon its banks live ex- ceedingly well. They supplied me with a couple of geese, with ducks, and frozen fish, which is of the first quality, From the Alazea I kept com- pany with a pedlar, half Yakut and half Russian. I have seen several of this mixed breed; and al- though their parents are ordinary in appearance, I have hardly ever seen the children, whether male or female, otherwise than with the most beautiful skins, and pleasingly formed features. They have also a delicate appearance, which adds much to the general interest. VOI, . I. T 274 SR.E.D.NE KOILY MSK. On the 19th December I reached Sredne Ko- lymsk, being one hundred and fifty miles from Sordak. The day was very cold, but the weather was calm. The country has been very low, but I am now getting into the vicinity of elevated lands. Crossing the magnificent stream, I shortly reached the town or commissariat, where an empty house was soon provided for me; and being supplied with firing, attendants, and provisions, I regaled myself, through the kindness of the com- missary; and in short, remained nearly five days, owing to their inability to supply me with a fresh Cossack. The interval was employed in walking about, making observations, and compiling this Narrative. The priest having, with the commissary and principal people of the place, paid me a visit, the former entered my habitation crossing himself, as is customary ; then advancing to me, who stood offering him my hand, in the English style, I was honoured with his blessing, which I acknow- ledged by an exchange of the compliment. The old gentleman retreated in astonishment, and de- manding who and what I was, my Cossack an- swered I was an English priest; upon which the reverend gentleman observed he was in error, as one priest could not give a benediction to another. He then shook hands, and expressed his friend- SRED NIE KOLYMS K . 275 ship for me. Another instance of the effects of \my beard and of more value to me, though less to the priests of Siberia, arose from the circum- stance of the Yakuti coming to me frequently with the right hand open, and supported by the left, which I interpreted into an asking of alms, and accordingly gave them something to eat. This, however, they evidently declined, and still continued their supplicating posture. My Cos- sack afterwards gave me to understand that I was mistaken, for that they were begging a blessing. I therefore determined to satisfy the next Yakut, who appeared during one of my rambles along the river; and when a well-dressed Yakut knez, Or prince, demanded my blessing in passing, I gave it to him in the Russian style, as well as to his family when I left them. The prince began to unload a Souma, or leathern bag, and following me, kissed my hand, and insisted upon my accept- ing a couple of sables; nor could all my entrea- ties induce him to take them back, that being considered the greatest insult ; nor indeed will any return be received for a religious offering, on the spot: afterwards, a little tobacco, a knife, or flint and steel, is considered an acceptable present. Sredne Kolymsk stands upon the left bank of the Kolyma, and is the residence of the commis- sary, his secretary, and a few attending Cossacks. T 2 276 SREDNIE KOLYMSK. There are also about twelve or fifteen inhabited dwellings, containing about one hundred people; though, with its outhouses, baths, &c. it has the appearance of a large village. Its central position is the principal reason of its adoption as the resi- dence of the commissary ; producing immense quantities of superior fish, serving equally for their own consumption and that of their dogs, which are numerous, it is also eligible. With a poor hobbydehoy fellow, in lieu of my faithful and affectionate Cossack, Peter Treche- koff, I departed on Christmas day, in spite of the remonstrances and invitation of the commissary to pass the holidays with him, and, directing my route along the river Kolyma, could not repress an inclination to melancholy, and a feeling of the loneliness of my situation. I felt that all my sorrows were yet to come, and that my difficulties had hardly begun. Yet my determination was firm, had appearances been ten times worse. At twenty miles I visited an old Yakut prince upwards of ninety years old, in the perfect enjoy- ment of all his faculties. He was a companion and acquaintance of the unfortunate Shallaouroff in the year 1764, then fifty-six years ago, when that adventurous person completed two expedi- tions to the Frozen Sea, and is supposed to have perished in the third. I inquired of the old man SRED NE KOLYMSK. 277 respecting Billings and his party; he said that was as yesterday. He has a comfortable dwelling, and is in good circumstances, though he told me a subsistence by the chase seems very precarious now-a-days, as most of the animals, especially the rein-deer and elks, have been driven to the north and east. Here I quitted the river, and then over a flat country, abounding in lakes and low brush-wood, completed forty miles: the weather was exceed- ingly cold, the thermometer never being above thirty-five degrees of Reaumur. The hills to the east had gradually disappeared, and the following day we reached fifty miles by a good path, and comparatively little fatigue. The third day I made thirty, and the fourth day forty miles, mostly along the river, and through and over broken ice, which made the journey very tedious, starting early and arriving late. The habitations in this district, whether peopled or not, are much more comfortable than in the others, and it is but justice to the people also to say that they are cleaner and better clothed. On the fifth day I started at one in the morning, and reached sixty miles, the greatest journey I had made in one day, in 35 or 36° of frost. I was obliged from the cold to dismount at least twenty or thirty times to take a run for 278 MALON E. mere self-preservation. At forty miles, at three in the afternoon, we drank tea in a bush, and at eight or nine in the evening reached the station called Malone,—exceedingly fatigued. I soon re- covered, however, through the kindness of a vener- able Russian merchant, who happened also to be travelling and trading that way, though nearly eighty years of age, sixty of which he had passed in Siberia, and twenty in Archangel. His pre- sent voyage, in his latter days, appears to have been a losing one, arising from the circumstance, that the paper currency has been recently changed at the capitals, with only a short warning to this distant point ; where the new issue has not yet arrived. The pedlars of this place are thus thrown out of every means of earning a profit with money for another year—while the chances to the commissaries, and other civil official traders, are proportionably encreased—unless at the sacrifice of 20 and 25 per cent. to those persons whose func- tions ought to restrain such a proceeding. The old merchant was, however, still able to give me tea and a glass of corn spirits, my own having been long since consumed, with every other species of provision. I contrived, however, through the kindness of the people, always to have plenty of fish, which was generally my principal food, in MALONE. 279 preference to the game which was offered to me, but which I much disliked. At Malone the track for horses is in general finished, though they do sometimes go as far as Nishney Kolymsk, and even to the Frozen Sea, in Search of sea-horse and mammoths' tusks. I was now provided with thirteen dogs and a driver, and a vehicle covered over with a sort of frame and oil-cloth, to keep out the cold, as it was thought too great for me to withstand. A bear skin and warm blanket and pillow were also placed in it, in such a manner that I might lie down, be warm, and sleep at my pleasure. I got in, and it was closed after me, not a breath of air could enter; so that, notwithstanding the intense cold prevail- ing on the outside, I was obliged to make my escape from the suffocation within, by taking out my knife and cutting a way through to gain fresh air. I have seldom been so sick or so angry; and baring Iny head, neck, and breast to the cold, and pitching the covering into the snow, in this exposed state I resumed the journey. The dogs ran well; but from the effects of the severe cold they were compelled to rest a few minutes at every four miles, besides at other times, as often as was necessary to let me have my run. Indeed, the want of exercise cruelly affected me. I never 280 NISH NEY KOLYMSK, was so distressed from the cold : the half-hour stages betwixt every three or four miles were suf- ficient to freeze and fret my face desperately; and it then required no little self-command to be able to resume the exercise so necessary to counteract it. Sometimes I found myself so drowsy, that the driver deemed it necessary to use all his exer- tions to rouse me. He behaved with great kind- ness, and has secured my grateful recollection. We reached fifty-five miles with the same dogs, and put up for the night at a Yukagir hut. Re- sumed next morning, with increased cold, though calm weather, and reached Nishney Kolymsk at noon, amid 42" of frost, according to many spirit thermometers of Baron Wrangel's, on the last day of December, 1820, after a most tedious, laborious, and to me perilous journey of sixty-one days, twenty of which were passed in the snow, without even the comfort of a blanket—a great oversight, I will not call it fault, of my worthy friend Mr. Minitsky: nor had I even a second coat, or parka, nor even a second pair of boots, and less clothing than even the guides and attendants of the poorest class. I could not, therefore, but feel grateful for my safe arrival at such a season of the year, in such intense cold, and with only the upper part of my nose between the eyes at all injured. Had I not received the knec-preservers, I believe I never NISHNEY KOLYMSK 281 should have arrived safe, unless by walking the whole distance; for when once the knees are frost- bitten (mine only complained) in a serious man- ner, adieu alike to them and life I met, at Nishney Kolymsk, the Baron Wrangel, and his companion Mr. Matiushkin, a midshipman. It was the last day of the old year, and in the pre- sent enjoyment of a moderate meal, a hearty wel- come, and excellent friends, I soon forgot the past, and felt little concern for the future. Quar- ters were appropriated me in the Baron's own house; and with him, on the shores of the Frozen Sea, I enjoyed health and every comfort I could desire. CHAPTER VII. Nishmey Kolymsk—Ostrovnaya Fortress—Description of the Fair held there, with the Tchuktchi tribe—Observa- tions on that people, and on Baron Wrangel's Expedition. ON the morning after my arrival at Nishney Kolymsk, and while at breakfast, I received, as a new year's gift, a couple of large fish in a frozen state, weighing each five or six poods, or about two hundred pounds weight, I inquired for what they were intended, and learnt, that I could not be supposed to have brought fish with me for subsistence; and that, as the season had already passed for laying in a stock, the in- habitants of course knew that I must be in want. During the forenoon I also received a parka, or leather frock, to be worn during my stay in the Kolyma. It was a handsome one, mounted with sables and martins. To these were added trow- sers, cap, boots, and leather hose ; in short, every article of dress that could be desired, and suffi- cient to have served me at least a twelvemonth. Besides these articles, I was also provided with a bear's skin for a bed, and a leather covering for a blanket, lined with hares' skins. Gloves were NISHNEY HOLY MSK. 283 supplied me through the care of the ladies; and Baron Wrangel, at whose house I lodged, crown- ed these benevolences, besides his general kind- ness, in making my situation absolutely enviable, by fitting me with a complete suit of the dress of the country, to be used, if necessary, or re- tained as a sample of the costume in these northern parts. By those kind and considerate supplies, both of provisions and dress, I was enabled to take my daily exercise with impunity, and could not help recalling to mind the words of Prior, which were fully realized in my case. If any nation pass their destined days Beneath the neighb'ring sun's directer rays; If any suffer, on the Polish coast, The rage of Arctos, and etermal frost; May not the pleasure of Omnipotence, To each of these some secret good dispense 2 Baron Wrangel’s expedition I found in a state of much forwardness, great exertions having been used in collecting dogs and drivers, and provi- sions, as well as in making new martes, or sledges. I learnt that it would depart from the Kolyma in the month of March, in two divisions,—one having for its object the solution of the question regarding the latitude and longitude of the north- east cape of Asia ; and the other, a journey due north from the mouth of the Kolyma, in search 284 NISH NEY HOOLYMSK. of a real or supposed continent, or rather the continuation of Asia to where it was imagined by some to join the continent of America. I did not hesitate to volunteer my services ; but in consequence of my being a foreigner, I found my services could not be accepted, without spe- cial permission from the government. I there- fore made up my mind to set out for the fair of the Tchuktchi, and to try my fortune in getting a passage through their country, and so to cross over Behring's Straits for America. During the months of January and February we were variously employed, as the nature of the weather would allow, passing the time agreea- bly and happily enough. Among other things, I brought up my journal, and worked some ob- servations for the latitudes and longitudes of Nishney Kolymsk. I had also placed at my disposal some interesting volumes, which Baron Wrangel had brought with him. Sometimes we joined in the amusements of the natives, and visited them in their feasts, which are very nu- merous, and at which there is a great consump- tion of liquor. The ice mountain was of course one of our amusements, and our time was far from hanging heavy I descended it daily during the fêtes with one and sometimes two young girls on my knees, who expressed no fear in NISH NEY KOLYMSK. 285 trusting themselves with a novice. Our conver- sation was chiefly relative to the expedition; each person had something to recommend, either for immediate benefit or as a future precaution; among others, I was so fortunate as to propose some things which appeared and proved of service to the expedition, and which were either adopted, or improved upon by the Baron. I have seldom seen a young man better qualified for the task imposed upon him, or one who possessed a more versatile genius. For his kindness to me I must ever feel grateful, and our short acquaintance has, I trust, been productive of a mutual friendship. The weather proved exceedingly cold in Janu- ary and February, but never so severe as to pre- vent our walks, except during those times when the wind was high : it then became insupportable out of doors, and we were obliged to remain at home. Forty degrees of frost of Reaumur never appeared to affect us in calm weather so much as ten or fifteen during the time of a breeze; yet to witness the aurora borealis, I have repeatedly quitted my bed in those extremes of cold, without shoes or stockings, and with no dress on but a parka, or frock. To prove that I do not magnify the extremes of cold in that part of the world, I beg to refer to Mr. Sauer's account of Billing's expedition, and 286 NISH NEY KOI, Y MSK. the present Admiral Saritcheff’s account of the same, when 43° of Reaumur, or 74° of Fahrenheit, were repeatedly known. I will, also, add my testi- mony from experience to the extent of 42°. I have also seen the minute book of a gentleman at Yakutsk where 47° of Reaumur were registered, equal to 84° of Fahrenheit. There can, indeed, be but little doubt that the local situation of the Ko- lyma, bordering on the latitude of 70°, and almost the most easterly part of the continent of Asia, is a colder one than Melville Island, or the centre of the American Polar coast. Okotsk, Idgiga, Yakutsk, Tomsk, and Tobolsk, are considered equally cold and exposed as the mouths of the Lena, Yana, or Kolyma. Even Irkutsk, about the latitude of London, has yearly a frost of 40° of Reaumur, or 58° below the zero of Fahrenheit; yet, the utmost degree of cold that I have ob- served, I have never known attended by that crackling noise of the breath which has been related, nor with those other strange sensations which some have described ; though I have seen axes split to pieces, and witnessed the ill effects of touching iron, glass, or crockery, with the naked skin, which will infallibly adhere to it. However, I soon had reason to consider the cold- est day as the finest, because it was then sure to THE KOLYMA. 287 be calm, and offered every incitement to exercise and cheerfulness. Nishney Kolymsk may be termed a large town In this part of the world, containing, as it does, near fifty dwellings and about four hundred people (or eighty families), which is three times the number of any place betwixt it and Yakutsk. It stands on the east side of an island in the Kolyma, about twenty-five miles long, and opposite to the junction of the river Aniuy. Formerly the town was eight miles lower down, but the bleakness of the situation and its consequent exposure to the northern blasts, induced its removal to the present site, where it is protected from them by a range of hills. The island is covered only with low brushwood, but receives fine timber which is floated down the river. No cultivation can of course be expected in a climate wherein scarcely a blade of grass is to be seen ; the horses, which do sometimes tarry in its vicinity for a few days, feeding upon the tops, stumps, and bark of the bushes, or upon the moss. The inhabitants ma- nage, notwithstanding, with great labour, to feed a couple of cows; though to do this they are obliged to bring the hay eighty miles. They are mostly Cossacks, with half a dozen pedlars, and three priests, the whole of whom carry on some traffic. 288 THE KOLYMA. These reverend traders seem to have adopted the practice of our young boys, who will say their prayers several times on those nights when they cannot sleep, as a sort of atonement for those nights when sleep and fatigue, or the like, have superseded them. In like manner the clergymen, as I was told, have actually said masses three times on a certain Sunday, and were then absent till the fourth ; and being three brothers, of course they were not in fear of being reported by one another. Baron Wrangel, however ac- ceptable he deemed the extra masses, insisted upon the observance of religious worship every Sunday. The occupation of people in this part of the world naturally depends upon the season. Laying in wood for fire, hunting, and trading, are the winter occupations; while fishing and fowling are almost the exclusive employment in spring and autumn : Summer is generally the building time, the wood for which is floated down the Kolyma from Sredne Kolymsk. The women em- broider gloves, caps, boots, shoes, and various things in a meat manner. Farther on to the southward, they also attend to the breeding of cattle. Fishing may, however, be termed the grand concern, employing, as it does, alike men, women, children, and dogs. THE KOILYMA. 289 The quantity of fish caught is prodigious, as will be inferred from the following account. From Nishney Kolymsk to Malone is a distance of eighty miles; the number of inhabitants in the two places may be six hundred, and these consume nearly two million pounds of fish. Now, allowing one hundred and twenty families to represent the six hundred individuals, it follows that each fa- mily receives a portion of about fifteen thousand pounds of fish annually, or forty pounds a-day. Nor is such a quantity by any means too large, considering the number of dogs, which are ge- nerally allowed each ten herrings a-day, at least during the period of work. In the distance above alluded to, there may be about eight hundred dogs, who consume above four thousand pounds of fish daily, during half the year: the other half they prowl about on the banks of the river and lakes, and by their sagacity provide their own subsistence. Indeed, were it not for them, there would inevitably be a plague in the town of Nish- ney Kolymsk, for there is no filth whatever which is not consumed by them. With respect to their howling at stated periods, no cock ever crew, nor goose ever cackled more regularly than these do- mestic animals: it would also appear that one of them is constantly on the alert, and, giving the VOI,. I. U 29() THE KOLYMA. alarm, he is instantly followed by the rest during a space of four or five minutes. The fish caught in the river Kolyma are of various kinds, but most of them I can only denote by their native names, as the mailma, moksou, osioter and sturgeon : the salmon is fine and plentiful, and the sterlett delicious; from the roe of the last is made the black caviar; but herrings are the most abundant of all. The sturgeon is converted into youkola, or dried fish, for the inha- bitants, while moksou is similarly prepared for the dogs; the other kinds are generally boiled or eaten raw by men and dogs; the former is deemed a most expensive plan. The species of fish al- lotted to the dogs, are only in cases of great me- cessity consumed by the men; such for instance was the case between the years 1812 and 1819, when a famine prevailed to so alarming a degree, that the poor were obliged to eat the dogs as they died, although, to their credit be it recorded, they never, even in these circumstances, killed them. Indeed, these faithful animals constitute the greatest part of their riches. Yet nature ap- pears in part to have provided against such emer- gencies, as it is a general remark, that in those seasons when fish are scarce, elks, wild sheep, and rein-deer are most numerous, and vice versá. But many of the inhabitants will not be harassed with THE KOLYMA. 29 | the trouble of hunting, and depend entirely upon fish for their food. Formerly, this part of the world was highly productive in furs, the emperor receiving a tenth of each sort, which has at times amounted to as many as five thousand sables, but now-a-days less than so many hundreds, a quantity barely suffi- cient to pay the yasack. The shores of the Icy Sea are still much frequented by the white, blue, and red fox, and near the woods valuable sables are still to be met with. In the rivers the vidra or river otter is in much estimation. Upon the whole, however, it appears that the inhabitants look to the Tchuktchi for their winter clothing and most valuable fur trade. The animals of the chase seem to have been forced from the central to the extreme parts of Siberia, and thus the elks, rein-deer, and argali, or wild sheep, are but rarely met with in the commissariat; they are now more within the reach of the few. Yukagire de- scendants, who line the banks of the two Aniuys, and chase those animals beyond the frontiers. Game of the feathered kind is, nevertheless, highly abundant, such as Swans, geese, ducks, woodcocks, bustards, and partridges; but, as in the case of the wild animals, the inhabitants have neither the time nor the means to look after them. Could they be supplied with salt, or could salt works be U 2 292 "THE KOLYMA. established here, no spot in the world would be better supplied with food than the Kolyma ;— whereas, at present, should they be so fortunate as to take two or three years' fish during one Season, it must all be converted to youkola; and in the second summer it turns sour and becomes magotty, so as scarcely to be fit even for the dogs to eat. With respect to the salubrity of the town and district of Kolyma, I fear it cannot be highly extolled, being subject to the ravages of many diseases, among which the leprosy, apoplexy, venereal, and scurvy are the most dangerous. The latter alone appears, by the inhabitants, to be susceptible of cure, which is by the consump- tion of raw fish during the winter: in the sum- mer the disease never fails to abate with the arrival of fresh fish. I always ate of raw fish, as well from choice, as from a wish to conform to the manners and customs of the natives, confi- dent that time and experience must have initiated them into a knowledge of what is best for their climate. The two other diseases before named, especially the venereal, appear incurable, becoming as it were the inheritance of the children. The complaints called diable au corps, and imerachism, must also be specified; the former is a most ex- traordinary one, and consists in an idea that the THE KOLYMA. 293 body of the patient is possessed with one or more devils, attended with incessant hiccoughs. The parties afflicted with it are generally most deli- cate and interesting in their appearance; and it is seldom indeed that any individual is cured. In females it prevails to such an extent, as utterly to prevent pregnancy. I have seen them hiccough to so great an extent as to induce me to strike them on the upper part of the spine, in the hope of relieving them from the pain by a surprise of the moment. They persist in believing that a devil is in the body of the person afflicted, and that, until he be removed, the person will never regain health. The complaint, whatever it may be, the natives consider as an inheritance from their fathers. Imerachism, to which not only the people of the Kolyma, but those also of more southern countries are subject, is equally unac- countable. Instead of exciting serious fits, like the last-mentioned disorder, it carries with it an air of merriment, as it by no means affects the health of the person, though it subjects him to the most violent paroxysms of rage, fear, and mor- tification. Whatever is said or done in the pre- sence of an imerach will be repeated by him at the moment, however indecorous, improper, or violent the act may be. I have seen the dog- master of Baron Wrangel's expedition commit 294 THE KOL Y AIA, acts sufficient to frighten the person in company with him. While in an adjoining room convers- ing on points of duty, a slight knock at the bulk- head was sufficient to set him a pummelling the person with him, merely from a principle of self- defence. Of this same dog-master, by the way, a highly amusing anecdote is related, and which was confirmed to me, not only by himself per- sonally, but also by Mr. Gedenstrom of Irkutsk, who commanded the expedition. The theatre was the Frozen Ocean, and the imerach's dogs and marte were the headmost. One forenoon they encountered a large white bear; the dogs imme- diately started towards the animal, and the driver, being the dog-master of whom I am speaking, steadfastly kept his place, prudently remaining by those who only could assist him. In the eager- ness of the dogs, sharpened probably by hunger, they became entangled with one another, and were almost rendered useless. The driver seeing the state to which he was reduced, resolved to attack the bear with his ostol (a stout ironed stick with small bells, which serves to stop the narte), and accordingly presented himself to the enraged bear, who immediately raised himself upon the hind legs, and began to cry and roar most bit- terly; the imerach followed the example. The THE KOLYMA. 295 bear then began to dance, and the driver did the same, till at length the other martes coming up, the bear received a blow upon the nose and was secured. It appears that the nose is the only part vulnerable without fire-arms, and even then, they can be secured only on being shot through the head. The white bear is, however, by no means a dangerous animal, avoiding the chase as much as it is avoided.—Another in- stance of imerachism which occurred in a dis- tant part of the general government of Siberia, may be related in this place, to prevent again ad- verting to those ludicrous scenes which hourly attend it. Two old ladies in Kamtchatka, one, the mother of a Mr. Tallman, an American, who had married a Russian girl, the other, the wife of a Russian, who were both afflicted with the dis- ease, were sitting at tea opposite to one another, when Mr. Tallman, in a gentle manner, put his hands behind their backs, propelling the old ladies towards each other, upon which they in- stantly exchanged tea-cups and saucers, while the really offending party stood enjoying the mischief. There can be no doubt that the complaint is ren- dered worse by the constant annoyance and irri- tation to which they are subjected for the amuse- ment of others; to say nothing about my belief 296 THE KOLY MIA. that it is in many cases brought on by an habitual folly of young boys, who imitate the mad acts of the really afflicted. Nishney Kolymsk has formerly been celebrated by the rank of the people banished thither. The famous Count Golofkin, one of the ministers of Catherine II. was for many years a resident, and ultimately died there. He was considered as a great intriguant, but of an eccentric character, a proof of which is afforded by his constant habit of putting himself, servants, and even his house into mourning, on Catherine's birth, name, or coronation-day. This open and determined op- position utterly precluded his pardon, and Nishney Kolymsk contains his tomb. The conduct of a Livonian Baron, at one time high in the esteem of the same princess, merited and obtained more favourable consideration. The baron successfully applied himself to the breeding of cattle, in the vicinity of Sredne Kolymsk, but his pardon arriv- ed so late, that his age and infirmities prevented his acceptance of the proffered boom, and he, his wife, and two children, lie buried in the church at Kolymsk; his eldest son returned to St. Peters- burg, and became re-possessed of the honours and wealth of his father. To such men an expatria- tion to this, the most distant part of Russian Si- beria, must have been severe beyond measure; cut THE KOLYMA. 297 off for ever from fortune, friends, rank, Society, and every enjoyment that could render life desirable. The only meteorological phenomenon which oc- curred during my stay at the Kolyma, was the aurora borealis. The scene fell far short of my expectations. I understood, however, that the months of October and November are the most proper to view it in its greatest splendour. Those which appeared during my stay, were generally from the north, and consisted of columns of fire moving in a horizontal direction, and gene- rally disappearing in the south-west; the height of the columns being from 50° to 60". At times an immense illuminated space from north to east would advance very close to us, and throwing up rays, or rockets of fire, and, forming into concave arches, approached us so near, as apparently to endanger our situation, exhibiting at the same time every colour of the rainbow. The most beautiful aurora which I saw was at midnight of the first of March ; the wind was from the north- north-west, and the glass at 36" of cold. The aurora occupied the whole circle of the heavens, at an elevation of 28° or 30°, and gradually rising, disappeared in the zenith. The figure was as an illuminated tent, with festoons, or fringes at the lower part, and which had an appearance as if constantly receiving accessions of fire, which were 298 THE KOLYMA. equally distributed to it from every part of the foundation of the tent. The illuminated part gradually diminished in splendour as it approached the zenith. It lasted about two hours, and did a little affect the electrometer. The view of it was rendered exceedingly fine and interesting, from the fact of our situation being as it were in the inside of the tent. Among the books in our library was Captain Burney's Chronological History of the North Eastern discoveries, and of the Early Navigation of the Russians. It appeared to me so extraor- dinary a production, and so deserving reply, that I addressed a memorial or letter to that effect to the Royal Society. Whether that learned body have received it or not, I am unacquainted, at least in an official manner. As connected with this journey, I had certainly considered it becom- ing the attention of the Royal Society, because the Memorial was professedly addressed to that body, and was only not received from a want of form. Mine was also equally faulty, and conse- quently could expect no better reception, being addressed, not to the President and Secretary, but to the Secretary and President of the Society. Although Captain Burney has paid the debt of nature, still, contrary to the opinion I entertaincó in the first edition of this work, I consider it THE KOLY MIA. 299 highly proper to annex a copy of the said Memo- rial, together with a map. To prevent interfering with this narrative, and to leave it for the consi- deration of the scientific, I have introduced it as a sort of appendix. Baron Wrangel and his party leaving us on the 27th of February, I attended him ten miles down the river, when, with three cheers, we wished him every success, and returned. The baron was escorted by twenty nartes and two hundred dogs; each narte carried about one thou- sand two hundred pounds weight; but in con- sequence of the early part of the winter having been employed in transporting provisions, &c. to the Great Baranov Cape, to the east of the mouth of the Kolyma, they will be enabled to proceed fully laden from that spot, as well round the North-East Cape of Asia, as to the north- ward in search of strange lands: they will also return to Cape Baranov, to be again supplied with food to enable them to regain this place, Nishney Kolymsk. On the 4th of March I left the Kolyma, in company with Mr. Matiushkin, midshipman, and a few merchants, whose martes were loaded with tobacco and iron utensils. The weather was fine, there being but 25° Reaumur of frost; yet we had not got more than fifteen miles, before we 300 THIN, KOL Y MIA. were obliged to halt, on the banks of a lake, being unable to make out the path from the depth and drift of the snow caused by the wind. Our route lay on the Aniuy, having left to the north the high lands which defend the town of Nishney Kolymsk. I passed the night very toler- ably in the snow; but it was otherwise with my friend, who as yet had not experienced the incon- veniences of these nocturnal sojournings, and of course was not initiated into the mysteries of the comforts to be secured by precautionary mea- sures: he was therefore repeatedly obliged to ex- ercise himself during the night, for we were so unfortunately situated, that no fire could have been kept in, even had there been fuel. The following day we passed through a thick forest of pines, in the greatest danger of broken heads, going with a velocity almost incredible, and at every descent of a hill dashing up against the trees. Thirteen dogs were provided for me. We made thirty-five miles in this manner, and reached the little Aniuy, a considerable, rapid, and dam- gerous river. A charity yourte received us for the might, and we fared very well. The low lands, which extend from the Kolyma to the eastward, being now passed, we entered upon a more elevated country, and were cheered with meeting and overtaking a great number of sledges, THE KOLY MA. 301 whose owners exhibited the same smiling faces, the result no doubt of as sanguine hopes, as those of the great merchants of London or Amsterdam, on the eve or expectation of a great fair. The right bank of the little Aniuy is formed of slate mountains ; the left a vast uninteresting flat. The river, which has many islands in it, winds a good deal, and exhibits some good scenery. The descendants of the Yukagiri inhabit the banks of the two rivers Aniuy, and serve as a Sort of neutral nation between the Russians and Tchuktchi. They were formerly a formidable and warlike people; and it cost the Russians much trouble to subjugate them. Indeed, in such fear were they held, that the Empress Catherine absolutely forbade their language to be spoken. They are now all but extinct, as a pure race, but One old woman existing whose parents were both Yukagires, and who really understands the language. The remainder are in fact descend- ants of Russians, who have intermarried with them. They are certainly the finest race of peo- ple I have seen in Siberia; the men well propor- tioned, and with open and manly countenances; the women are extremely beautiful. What their origin was, it is now difficult to say; although they were doubtless of Asiatic origin, their fea- tures partaking of the Tartar aspect, -to say no- 302 THE KOLYMA. thing of their enmity to the Tchuktchi, while they have a great friendship for the Yakuti or Ton- gousi. The third day we reached an inhabited yourte, where many of the merchants awaited us, as they could not go to the fair before a certain time. The river was also in some degree an impediment to their proceeding, as the velocity of the stream prevents firm ice being ever formed. Two of the merchants, in attempting the passage, got a severe ducking, and narrowly escaped with their lives: the breadth of the path being but five or six feet, and so slippery in some places, that unless the driver be very well qualified and accustomed to the place, it is difficult to prevent accidents. The wood on the Aniuy is of considerable growth, for so northern a situation ; but the root has seldom more than twenty inches depth. I witnessed, for the second time, the first being at Sordak, the mock suns and moons, and co- lumns on each side of them, at equal distances; but these parhelia were by no means brilliant, owing, as it appeared to me, to the rather warm weather; I shall, therefore, await more favourable appearances, before I attempt their description. On the 8th of March we reached the For- tress, the river bordered with the same elevated OSTROVNAYA FORTRESS. 303 slate lands on the right, and low flat on the left bank. At seven miles, on this side the fortress, the scenery begins to improve; and the fortress itself may be said to be a most romantic spot. It is distant from the Kolyma one hundred and fifty miles, and during summer the place must be very pleasant. There are twenty yourtes, about two hundred people, and a large wooden building, fit for any thing except defence. The whole stands upon an island, surrounded by elevated and well wooded hills. There is very little grass, but much moss. The view of the river is exceedingly picturesque ; and the fortress is decidedly the most favourable place to reside in I have seen from Yakutsk, a distance of at least two thousand miles. The inhabitants on the banks of the river are not numerous, and subsist very scantily by hunting, there being few fish in the river. Famines are therefore of frequent occurrence, bread not being supplied by the government. Elks, rein-deer, and argali, are what the people most depend upon ; formerly they were abun- dant, but are now much reduced, owing to the peopling of the country by the Russians, who hunt rather to exterminate the breed than to pro- cure subsistence. During the fair, the inhabitants 304 OSTROVNAYA FORTRESS. make the best of their time in trading, and be. coming after that a sort of storekeepers to the other traders. Having settled ourselves in a small Yukagir yourte, Mr. Matiushkin and I received a visit from one of the Tchuktchi, a most empty coun- tenanced and wild looking savage. He entered the room where we were, tumbled himself down upon a stool, Smoked his pipe, and then quitted the room, without once looking at, or taking the least notice either of us, or any thing about us. The commissary having made his appearance, it was determined to commence the fair, by first in- stalling two of the chiefs with medals and swords, baptizing them, and receiving a nominal tribute. The morning was ushered in by the arrival of these persons in state, dressed in their gayest ap- parel, and seated in a beautiful marte, drawn by two rein-deer, the whole forming a cavalcade of twenty-five or thirty pairs. Having reached a large storehouse, to which the altar and images were carried, the priest proceeded to baptize the two men, their wives, and three children ; but instead of being merely sprinkled with water, they, men and women, were obliged one and all to strip, and to be three times plunged in a large iron cauldron of ice-water, with the thermometer on the spot at 35° of Reaumur, with no part of THE FORTRESS. 305 the dress on except their trowsers; and were afterwards directed to bathe their feet in the same cold water. I could not help pitying the women and children, the former of whom having long hair, became, as it were, enveloped in icicles. A small cross suspended round the neck, with many difficult and almost useless injunctions how to pronounce their newly acquired names, completed the ceremony. A quantity of tobacco was then given as a present to each of the new converts, by way of inducing others to follow the example. Instances having, however, occurred of late of Tchuktchi being twice baptized, and even of pre- senting themselves a third time, for the privilege of the presents, the good people of Irkutsk begin to be tired of sending either their missionaries or tobacco to such a people; nor do I think such a determination with regard to other equally de- wout, but more unsuccessful missionaries, would cause much regret in the minds of the more tole- rant, but less fanatical part of the good people of England. The ceremony finished, the same cavalcade join- ed by the other chiefs, or Toions of the Tchuk- tohi, proceeded to the abode of the commissary, whither Mr. Matiushkin and I followed. The commissary then made the usual declaration, that the fair could not begin until he had received a VOI. I. X 306 THE TCHURTCH.I. tribute for the Emperor Alexander, on which the principal traders advanced and laid each a red fox skin at the feet of the commissary. The names of the donors, and the value of the skins were then regularly entered in the official records, and the commissary proceeded to invest two of the chiefs with a medal and small sabre, reading to them publicly a letter, which he is supposed to receive from the chief of Yakutsk, declaring it to be the Emperor's order so to invest the chief, or Toion; the clergyman then advanced to give his benediction to them, and the poor ignorants be- came quite happy, quite proud, and ultimately quite drunk. The next topic started was that of my desire to accompany the Tchuktchi through their country, and this seemed to require more generalship than all the others. The commissary, through an in- terpreter, commenced by informing the Tchuktchi people, that “ the Emperor understanding two strange ships had appeared upon their coast, was willing to know who they were, and had accord- ingly sent with them, agreeable to their request,. two interpreters, one of whom understood their own language as well as the Russian, while the other, meaning myself, understood the languages of most maritime nations. The commissary desired, as from the Emperor, that all due care should be THE TCHU KTCH I, 307 taken of, and all due respect paid to us, especially to myself, who was one of the chief interpreters of the empire.” After this opening harangue was completed, the turn of which inspired me with some degree of hope, one of the most respectable of the Tchuktchi, got up and said, that “he was in want of no interpreter, and therefore would not take one.” This laconic reply completely dis- concerted us. The next, an old and cunning fellow, called Kacharga, said “that boys and girls should not be attended to in a case of such import- ance; that he, a chief, had not demanded an interpreter, although a nephew of his had done so.” He expatiated upon the impropriety of taking from those youths a communication of such im- portance, as should alone have come from a chief. I could not but approve the justice of the remark, and began to suspect the whole was a hoax, and that they had not made any demand of an inter- preter. It was therefore told them that “ two nartes would be of no great consequence to them, and that as the Emperor had so sent, they ought to take us, for that we dared not return to merit his displeasure.” A fresh consultation was here- upon held by the savages, and they came to a de- termination, “that as the great Emperor himself wished to send two interpreters to Behring's Straits, of course he could have no objection to pay for X 2 308 THE TCHUKTCIII. the transport of such people.” Upon inquiring what demand they would make, they said “fifty bags of tobacco,” a quantity equalling one hundred and twenty poods, or near five thousand pounds weight. To make such a present in advance, was madness in me to think of, and the project ap- peared, as indeed it proved, to be wholly lost; for they added, that “he could be no great Emperor who could not make so small a present, seeing that he could command the riches of all his peo- ple.” They also observed that “I must be a poor interpreter if I could not satisfy the demand my- self.”—Alas! they might as well have demanded five millions as five thousand pounds of me. One of the knowing ones observed, and I mention it as evincing the sagacity of those people, that “he doubted whether I was an interpreter of the great Emperor's,” saying, “ that I could not even speak the Russian language, for that he moticed the Rus- sian Cossack interpreted from the Tchukskoi lan- guage to Mr. Matiushkin, and Mr. M. again in a different dialect to me.” All this was too true to be denied. They then asked, “ of what use I could possibly be to them, when I neither under- stood the Russian nor Tchukskoi languages.” This last truism quite appalled the whole of us, and from that moment the point was given up. It was not a little singular that these rude people THE TCHU KTCHI 309 should all along have known that a third Toiom, or Chief, for I was considered as one, was in the ſair, and demanded who and what he was. I have, however, no idea that their refusal arose either from fear or ill-will, but simply from avarice. I next day visited their camp, distant about two miles and a half. It consisted of three large and three small tents. The former contained the bulk of the Tchukskoi people, and the latter were ap- propriated to the chiefs and more considerable people. The large tents were disgustingly dirty and offensive, exhibiting every species of gross- ness and indelicacy. But the smaller were, on the contrary, very neat, clean, and warm, al- though without a fire, in 35° of frost. Indeed they were to me almost suffocating, being only eight feet long, five broad, and about three feet high ; and containing three or four people huddled toge- ther in one bed, which is made of rein-deer skins, and the coverings lined with white-foxes'. The small tents are made also of the old and hard skins doubled, so that the hair is both on the in- side and out; a large lamp with whale oil or fat, which serves them for a light, communicates also considerable warmth. On entering one of these small dwellings, I found the chief and his wife per- ſectly naked, as was also a little girl their daugh- ter, of about nine years old,—nor did they seem 3 l (3 THE TCPIU KTCH [. to regard our presence (Mr. Matiushkin was with me), but ordered the daughter to proceed and prepare some rein-deer's meat for us; which she did, in that state of nudity, by a fire close to the tent. Having lolled upon the bed about a quarter of an hour, we were treated with the rein-deer meat half boiled, of which we of course partook out of compliment. I was, however, obliged to cut short my visit from want of air, and the most of. fensive smell I had ever endured for so long a time. The Toion, or Chief, was a little angry with me for quitting him, and imputed it to his having the previous day opposed my design of going through his country. Their furniture consists of a large kettle, knife, wooden bowls, platters, spoons or ladles; and an axe--with flint and steel. Having thus informed myself of the savage state in which they live, I returned to the fortress, driven by one of the chiefs in a meat marte, drawn by a couple of rein-deer in a pretty style. They use regular reins, made of leather thongs, and a long spring- ing came with an ivory mob to it, of the tooth of a sea-horse; the latter is exercised occasionally upon the rump of the animal, on which it is capable of inflicting a pretty severe blow. I must, however, do justice to the Tchuktchi for their very kind treatment and conduct to their brutes, whether dogs or rein-deer—appearing quite to consider THE FAIR witH THE TCHUKTCIII, 31 l them as pets. Nay, to so great a degree is this fecling carried, that among this savage nation it is considered unmanly even to ride ; in all ordinary cases they prefer to walk, and in every other way appear solicitous to lessen the labour of the animal, permitting only the women and children to sit in the nartes when upon a journey. On our return to the fortress, the fair was for- mally commenced by an harangue of the com- missary's, declaring the terms, the tax, and the penalties. The Tchuktchi had in the mean time ascertained the quantity of tobacco in the market by means of their emissaries, who are exceedingly inquisitive and cunning upon that point, their rudeness and apparent equality giving them free access to every dwelling which con- tains any of that commodity. They have their own mode of calculating, and before the fair is commenced, they fix the price of their goods, to which price they adhere more strictly than the Russians. The fair is held upon the river Aniuy, opposite to the fortress. Early in the morning the Tchuktchi arrive at the place of barter, and forming a semicircle towards the fortress, the extremes of which reach to the edge of the ice, dispose their furs upon their martes, the owners constantly remaining by them. In the mean time the Russians place their large bags or bales 312 THE FAIR WITH THE TCHUKTCHI. of tobacco in the centre of the semicircle, and then begin to parade and visit the Tchuktchi, inquiring the prices, &c. by means of an inter- preter. The work entirely falls upon the Rus- sian, who drags behind him for many hours two hundred weight of tobacco, before he can induce the Tchuktchi to barter. The tobacco, on the first or second day, cannot be exchanged below the terms of an agreement made between the merchants, as three or four people are so posted, as to ascertain and judge of the conditions and their validity. Still, however, they do manage to cheat; but on discovery, the goods are for- feited, and the parties declared incompetent to trade any more. They are particularly guarded by the law as to the wetting of tobacco, or placing stones or other heavy things with it, to increase the weight. It is Iudicrous enough to stand upon the banks of the river, and wait the appointed signal for commencing barter each morning. While the Tchuktchi are quietly sitting on their martes, with their sleeves drawn back, and their arms thrust into their bosoms to keep them warm, the Russians, on the contrary, start pell-mell: pots, pans, kettles, knives, swords, hatchets, scissors, needles, &c. are rattling in every direction, like so many chimney-sweepers on May-day ; priests, offi- THE FAIR WITH THE TCHUKTCHI. 313 cers, Cossacks, and merchants, men, women, and children, alike fantastically dressed with articles of traffic, of which tobacco constituted the chief. A few bells, pipes, and corals also, served to grace the dresses of the more wealthy and whimsical pedlars. For all the small articles the Russians readily enough received fresh meat, which was much wanted. The heavier skins and sea-horse teeth also were ready for sale by the Tchuktchi at a reduced price; but the same inducement which the Tchuktchi have to sell bears’, wolves’, and rein-deer's skins, namely, their weight, and the expense of transporting them, operates to prevent the Russians from buying them. Sea- horse teeth were particularly flush on the first day, but nothing would do, the tax and penalty were feared, and little business was done. No instance occurred of the Tchuktchi selling below the rule; but two Russians, brothers, were de- tected in it, and committed to prison until the close of the fair. The price or rate which the Russians had set, was a martin park, somewhat like a carter's frock, of twenty skins and fifteen red foxes, for a hundred weight of tobacco; while the Tchuktchi held it at a park and ten red foxes. The second day was brisker, and more business was dome; from fifteen red foxes and a Dark of martins, the Russians descended, by 314 THE FAIR WITH THE TCHUKTCHI. general consent, to twelve and eleven foxes. Still the Tchuktchi generally held on, compelling the Russians, meantime, to walk about making offers. What, however, with cunning, and breaking off the agreement, a good deal of business was done; but the third and last day's fair was the best and most lucrative for the savages, when neither tax, nor penalty, nor perjury, were feared ; each in- dividual, from the commissary to his secretary and priest, and from the Cossacks to the mer- chants, all busily employed in undermining his neighbour. I could scarcely believe that in so small a number of individuals there could exist so great and general a jealousy, but so it was, and many quarrels ensued. That my readers may the better form an opinion of what mate- rials the people of this part of the world are composed, I will briefly say, that there is scarcely an act or circumstance, either of a public or pri- vate mature, which takes place at Irkutsk, Yakutsk, or Okotsk, which is not immediately and indirectly made known to, and commented upon, by these worthy critics of the North East of Asia; nor is it more than an act of justice or truth to say, that I believe them to be more generally and better educated than any other equally mu- merous settlement in Siberia, being of the same class of Cossacks. I hardly know of an instance THE FAIR WITH THE TCHUKTCIII. 315 of the young lads not reading and writing to- lerably well. I never saw better judges of tobacco, nor of weight, than the Tchuktchi. I can confidently assert that they do not err one pound in the hum- dred weight; and the detection of the slightest fraud on the part of the Russians is sufficient to the Tchuktchi to cut the party short, and deal no more with him. Their mode of trying the strength of tobacco is this: a leaf of it is taken and Squeezed in the hand as hard as possible, and if any appearance of moisture be left in the palm, it is well known that the tobacco has been water- ed; if the leaf preserves the compressed shape which the force of the hand has given it, it is weak, but if it recovers and expands quickly to its original size and shape the tobacco is deemed strong. And such is their nicety of judgment in ascertaining this point, that an allowance of goods is given or received on the celerity with which the leaf returns, after compression, to its natural shape. The last day's sale, although of course the best, was held back a little by the Tchuktchi wishing to make the Russians believe that they had no want of tobacco, as they could get it much cheaper in the bay of St. Lawrence, from the ships which casually call there. Whatever trade 3 TA || 6 t THIE TCHU KTCH.I. they may carry on with those vessels, the Tchuk- tohi appear to know the value of a more direct and first-hand trade; nor can this be doubtful, when the toils and dangers of their journey and the small profits are considered—at least, small when compared with the profits they sometimes receive from the few vessels which now and then visit their coast. The fair lasted seven days, which is three more than usual; the two first, and the two last, may, however, be considered as no- thing, being occupied in the lowest species of retail, in which deliveries are made so low as for sixpence or ninepence. Upon the last day of the real fair, or fifth from the commencement, the vodka (spirit) began to make its appearance, and its effects were successful in inducing the Tchuk- tehi to bring forward, for sale, a few of the black and brown foxes. They sold, however, very dear, and were nearly all taken back with them to their country. w The trade of the commissary, secretary, their friends, and Cossacks, was done to so great an extent, and with so little principle, that the licensed trader could do nothing, except at a con- siderable loss. The former have a wonderful advantage, also, in bringing their goods into the market, from being able to make padvodies, or public levies of dogs, &c. as if for the public Ser- THE TCHU KTCHI. 317 vice. This, however, cannot rank among those abuses laid to the charge of the Emperor; for, if the offenders’ salaries were increased tenfold, the same practice would be continued: they would still trade, and still act, in the same unfeeling way. “A want of education, or avarice, begets a want of morality.” Baron Wrangel has done all he can to remedy this evil, but the moment he re- tires from the scene, the same conduct will be resorted to, forming, as it does, a considerable revenue to those holding the command. All extra Services of the crown, as those for the post, ex- presses, forwarding of the bread, spirits, and pub- lic stores, are thrown upon the poor, while priests, nobility, all officers of the crown, and Cossacks, who possess the best means of carrying such ser- vices into execution, are exempt. The poor, having no dogs, are obliged to hire them at ex- orbitant rates from the rich. Every marte taken for the use of the public during the fair is a loss to the poor of sixty roubles, or near three pounds. The number of nartes which have been thus at certain times required, may be conjectured from the fact that while I was there, the commissary demanded one for himself, others for his secretary, servant, Cossack, and chancellary; and a sixth * Auri sacra fames! quae non mortalia cogis Pectora!— 3 || 8 THE TCHUKTCHI. for his provisions. The chief priest also demanded Severally for himself, assistant, Cossack, altar, baggage, and provisions. The object of the for- mer was to register the receipt of twenty-three red foxes, being the yasack paid by the Tchuk- tehi; that of the latter, the christening and regis- tering of seven savages, and all the provisions they carried could not have exceeded forty pounds weight; consequently there could have been no necessity for such padvodies;–a demand which, by the by, Baron Wrangel did not permit being complied with, he being vested with civil and military powers over the Kolyma district. I am one of the last persons to discountenance, in the least degree, the general design of converting to Christianity the savage tribes dispersed over vari- ous parts of the world, but I think it must be regretted that such project should ever have the effect of straitening or burthening those who are born Christians. As to the present case, it is to be hoped the liberality of the government will extend to this distant and impoverished place, by paying the inhabitants for all services performed for the crown. This would possibly prevent much abuse, and at least have the effect of disbursing a sum of money, of little consideration to a government, though highly acceptable to the govern ed. THE TCHUKTCH I. 319 } The fair at length finished, I prepared to de- part for Nishney Kolymsk, with many thanks to my venerable Yukagir host for all his kindness. I passed the time very agreeably at his house; he was a very good chess-player, and was fond of the game. His manner of play added another instance to many I have witnessed, that there is, in various parts of the world, little or no differ- ence any where in the moving of the pieces. I have played the game with Yakuti, Tongousi, and Yukagiri; but the Tchuktchi laughed at me for such a childish employment of my time. While upon this subject, I may remark as a cir- cumstance relative to the game of chess, and which has repeatedly surprised me, that wherever a people recognize and play it, they are infallibly Asiatics. Neither the Tchuktchi nor the Koriaks understand any thing of it, but all the Kamtchat- dales, and other Asiatics, are familiar with it. The features of the Yukagiri lead me to sup- pose them Tartars, and not a race very distinct from the Yakuti. They are, however, almost Russified by intermarriages, and the question of their origin is become difficult. There were at the fair two or three of the Chuanse, or Cho- dynse, a tributary nation, inhabiting the country between the two Aniuies and the Anadyr: their features are also Asiatic. 320 THE TCHUKTCHI. The information I received from the Tchuktchi by means of the interpreter Kobeleff, son to the Kobeleff who attended the expedition under Cap- tain Billings, I will give in the same laconic style in which I communicated it to the Governor- general of Siberia from Nishney Kolymsk. My letter, in the first part, described what articles were sold by the Russians; as tobacco, kettles, knives, spears, needles, bells, scissors, pipes, axes, spoons, coral beads, and other small ornaments, a few pieces of red and blue namkeen, and white cotton. For these the Tchuktchi brought four or five hundred sea-horse teeth, a few bears' skins, rein-deer dresses, and white foxes, and these, with some frozen rein-deer meat, make the whole pro- ductions of their own country. The other arti- cles of fur come from a nation on the American continent, called the Kargaules; two of whom were at the fair. They bear more nearly the features of the Tchuktchi than those of the hi- deous-mouthed inhabitants of the islands in Behr- ing's Straits, although with a browner or more dirty colour. The furs brought and sent by them consist of many thousands of black, brown, blue, red, and white foxes, martins, and martin parks, some beavers, river otters, bears, wolves, sea-dogs, and sea-horse skins; a few articles of warm clothing, and some ornaments carved out of THE TCHU KTCHI, 32 | sea-horse teeth, representing the animals common among them. The value of the exports on the spot, taking them at four hundred bags, or forty thousand pounds weight, of tobacco, at three roubles a pound, is one hundred and twenty thousand roubles; to this add sixty thousand for the value of the other articles, and we shall make the ex- ports amount to about one hundred and eighty thousand roubles, or seven thousand guineas. The value of those articles at Yakutsk, as pur- chased by the traders, is not one-third, leaving, after the deducting of carriage expenses, which are considerable, a clear profit of about one hun- dred or one hundred and twenty per cent., and would be much more, but that so many people trade against each other, and that the traders are altogether too numerous. The market is over- stocked with tobacco, not one-half being disposed of The value of the imports may be known by reference to the tax, recollecting that the furs bear almost the same price at Yakutsk as at the Kolymsk, although distant nearly two thousand miles, by land; the return of the horses, however, enable the merchants to go back cheap. A bag of tobacco of one hundred pounds weight is worth three hundred roubles, and iron work of fifty or sixty roubles value is exchanged for a VOL. I. Y 322 THE TCHU KTCHI. martin park, worth ninety and one hundred rou- bles; fifteen red foxes, two hundred and fifty to three hundred roubles; and a pair of boots and park of rein-deer skin, worth about forty or fifty roubles; making all together about four hundred roubles, which brings the exchange on the spot, as nearly as can be, equal, for the tax is not ad- hered to. Now, if one bag of tobacco produce four hundred, four hundred bags will be equal to one hundred and sixty thousand roubles, which constitute the imports, being the same value as at Yakutsk. The merchants have also the bene- fit of a great trade on their journey along the ri- vers, with the Yakuti; and this is really the most advantageous branch of it, for they will extort even three and four hundred per cent. The Tchuktchi parted with less than a third of their most valuable furs, taking the rest back. I inferred hence, that they have not the means of conveyance for more than four hundred bags of tobacco, and the other articles sold with these; otherwise, from their love of that article, and the demand for it by the American savages, they would no doubt purchase it for the small and va- luable furs. Nor is this idea of mine rendered less weighty when I inform my readers that, so tena- cious are the Tchuktchi of surcharging their rein- deer, and so great is their love of tobacco, that THE TCHU KTCHI, 323 every male adult, on quitting the fair, carries upon his own back from forty to fifty pounds weight; until the consumption of provisions enables him fearlessly to put it upon the marte. Indeed, the demand for this commodity is so great, that at the Anadyrsk and Idgiginsk fairs the Russians do not give in barter with the Tchuktchi one half of the quantity which is given at Kolymsk, and consequently the Anadyr Tchuktchi are prohibited by the rest of their nation from trading to the Kolymsk, for fear of spoiling the market. There were this year at the fair, which is termed a good one, two hundred and fifty martes, and five hundred rein-deer, with sixty-eight men, sixty women, and fifty-six children. Each rein- deer can draw three or four poods, or one hun- dred and fifty pounds weight. Those which come to the fair return only to the river Tchaon, where they are exchanged for those which belong to, and which had come from the Bay of St. Law- rence. Seventy-five and ninety days are required for them to perform the journey, which is about eight hundred versts, or five hundred miles. There were three chiefs at the fair: first, Ye- brashka, who commands the tribes inhabiting the banks of the Tchaon, Packla, and Kvata rivers, as well as the country towards Shelatskoi Noss. Y 2 324 THE TCHU KTCH.I. Second, Valetka, chief of the Belo Morsky Tchuk- tohi, which tribe inhabit the eastern sea coast, from Cape North to the Bay of Klasheui. Third, Kacharga, who commands the Tchukskoi Noss, or East Cape tribe, who inhabit the Noss, and the country from thence to the Bay of St. Lawrence. The first are wanderers, and live by their rein- deer, which are employed for burthen between the river Tchaon and the fair, and in the trade of sea-horse teeth. The second subsist almost entirely by fishing and hunting, added to a small tribute, or toll of tobacco, which is paid by their southern neighbours for a free passage along their coast; they have no rein-deer. The third tribe subsist by traffic, and the breeding of rein-deer, of which they have considerable herds, and are em- ployed from the Bay of St. Lawrence to the banks of the Tchaon. There is also a fourth chief, who commands the Tchuktchi of Anadyr Noss, a tribe who inhabit the country and banks of the Anadyr, and also subsist by traffic and the breed- ing of rein-deer. These chiefs live equally distant from each other, about one hundred and fifty or two hundred miles, and carry on a sort of inter- course by means of the eastern coast Tchuktchi, who are provided with baidares. The Tchukskoi Noss race are the most nume- rous; those of the eastern coast the most warlike THE TCHU KTCH.I. 325 and hardy ; the Tchaon, or Shelatskoi are the most friendly, and those on the Anadyr Noss are the richest. The whole are nominally independ- ent, but actually tributary; for the yasack, though small, is enforced and conscientiously paid. Their existence as an independent tribe hangs on the will of Russia, for that independence will at any time be sacrificed to retain their trade. Their whole number cannot exceed four or five thou- sand. The Kargoules are represented by them as far more numerous, but the Tchuktchi cannot count past a hundred, or ten tens, that is, their fingers ten times over. Each tribe has a different dialect of the same language, and all understand one another, though the dialects are extremely difficult to articulate; so much so, that the inter- preters, after the three days of the fair, are gene- rally laid up with a sore throat. In the conversations I had with the Toions or Chiefs (the same word is used in America, and in the same sense), I understood them to have no knowledge nor tradition of any land north of theirs; that the sea is for ten months so frozen, that nothing but mountains of ice are visible; and that during the months of August and September the ice breaks up, but not in such a manner as to admit a passage for vessels. They told me also that large herds of rein-deer roam from cape to 326 THE TCHU KTCHI. cape, but do not come from the north beyond the sea. To the west of Shelatskoi Noss, termed by them Errie, (a word also of the same import as in America, signifying a great sea or lake), they say there is a large and very deep bay, into which the Packla and Tchaon discharge their waters; and in this bay two islands, the one called Ayon, Small and near the Noss, abounding in sea-horse teeth; the other, Illeree, large, and producing fine moss for the rein-deer. The latter has some few resi- dents both in winter and summer; in the former season catching and killing wild rein-deer for the fair, in the latter feeding the tame rein-deer. I was also told that half way across the south side of the bay there is a high mountain of rock, named since, by Baron Wrangel, Cape Matiushkin. That from their habitations on the Tchaon and Packla rivers to Shelatskoi Noss it is only one day's journey with rein-deer, a pair of which are represented by them as capable; upon an emer- gency, and in hard frosty weather, of drawing a sledge with one person fifty or sixty miles. She- latskoi Noss does not, by their report, run far into the Sea, but is elevated, and has a narrow passage between it and their country; in truth, an isthmus, which forms a small bay, without islands, to the east of the Noss. I was also made to understand, that the coast from the bay on the east of the THE TCHUKTCH.I. 327 Noss, trends a little to the right of the rising sun. The Noss is formed by the Tchaon and Packla rivers on the west, and the Kvata and Ekakta on the east, and the Tchaon bay, by Shelatskoi Noss and the island of Illerie; which latter will of course be understood as the island of Sabedei. The Pogitcha river is represented as not the same with the Anadyr, but a small yet rapid stream which from the east enters the Tchaon. And lastly, that the whole of their country is so moun- tainous, so barren, and so deep in Snow, that laden rein-deer cannot come straight from the Bay of St. Lawrence, but are obliged to coast along the valleys on the shore, until they reach the Packla, where their route changes from N.W. to S.W. Fish is said to abound in the northern rivers, on the eastern coast, as well as in the Bay of St. Lawrence, which last is the only place where ships can anchor, and is formed by the Tchukskoi and Anadyrskoi Nosses. They have no know- ledge nor tradition of any nation called the She- lages, but they recognize the word Kopai, as ap- plicable to the name of a person in their language. They know nothing either of their origin or first settlement in the country, nor of the Tartar na- tions subject to Russia, nor do they understand any Tartar words. Their language bears no 328 THE TCHU KTCHI. affinity to the Asiatic, though it is understood by the Koriaks. The features of the Tchuktchi, their manners and customs, pronounce them of American origin, of which the shaving of their heads, puncturing of their bodies, wearing large ear-rings, their independent and Swaggering way of walking, their dress, and superstitious ideas, are also evident proofs : nor is it less than pro- bable that the Esquimaux, and other tribes of Arctic Americans may have descended from them, for several words of their languages are alike, and their dress perfectly similar. That New Siberia has been inhabited there is no doubt; many huts or yourtes still existing, and there are traditions in Siberia, of tribes having been compelled, from persecution, the small-pox, as well as from dis- ease, to quit their lands for those beyond the SeaS. The persons of the Tchuktchi are not peculiarly large, though their dress, which is clean but of enormous size, gives them almost a gigantic ap- pearance. They have fair or clear skins, but or- dinary though masculine features. In conduct they are wild and rude. They have no diseases, and live to a great age; two of the chiefs at the fair being past seventy, as calculated by the num- ber of voyages they had made ere they accom- panied Captain Billings. I did not find them THE TCHU KTCHI. 329 idolatrously fond of spirits, as they refused to change furs for that alone, though they would readily receive it, and in preference bargain with the donors. They appeared a bold, suspicious, and irascible people, and though very avaricious, perfectly honest, and not inhospitable. They ap- pear to trust to their nominal independence, by concealing their actual weakness, and magnifying their numerical strength. They have a respect for their chiefs, and do not live in that perfect state of equality which has been supposed, though they purposely affect that equality in the presence of the Russians; when the most common of their nation will enter a Russian dwelling, behave rude and churlish, keep his cap on, take what he wants without asking, and ultimately quit without the slightest thanks, acknowledgment, or appearance of feeling. The chiefs, on the contrary, are ex- tremely correct in all that concerns their conduct with the Russians, sitting with their caps off, asking for what they want, and making them- selves by no means unacceptable guests. The whole of them are ingenious, cunning, industrious, and excellent mechanics, which is proved by the symmetry, neatness, and quantity of their martes, clothes, tents, arms, and orna- ments. They have no religion, but a sort of re- gard to some sorcerers or people held by them in 330 THE TCHU KTCH.I. veneration. They are allowed to retain five wives, whom they may put to death upon discovery of any criminal intercourse; holding also the power of compelling them to such criminal intercourse, an act by no means unfrequent, when the husband is in want of an heir or son. Upon the whole, the Tchuktchi appear to be approaching to Russian subjection; and I am con- fident they would never object to a traveller or travellers exploring their inhospitable country, provided they received a remuneration ; and no- thing prevented my being able to accompany them, save their avarice and my poverty. I felt, however, happy in establishing the fact of being permitted to go on some terms, because it will enable the Russian government to take the first opportunity of exploring their country. Yet I would advise such as are employed to be particu- lar in their conduct; they will have to do with a people jealous and suspicious, but who, although cautious in giving their word, are truly faithful in keeping it. He who shall feel inclined to accom- pany such a savage race through their inhospitable and uninteresting country, must doubtless be pre- pared to undergo very great fatigues and priva- tions; he should be inured to cold, as he will, doubtless, have to walk the whole distance, but on no day exceeding four or five miles. He THE TCHU KTCHI 331 should also be tall, stout, and strong, for such and such only the Tchuktchi both fear, obey, and respect. The manner of dressing their food is by boil- ing, when wood can be procured, which, how- ever, is not frequently the case during the winter season. They then generally consume frozen meat or fish, which with them, as with the others in rein-deer countries, is considered a necessary and extravagant luxury: warm and raw marrow is also their greatest delicacy. The flavour of their meat is most exquisite: free from that soft and flabby taste, common to rein-deer and veal, with a flavour somewhat between beef and mut- ton, more tender than the one and less so than the other. They drink tea, and are exceedingly fond of sugar. Tobacco is their great commodity, which they eat, chew, smoke, and snuff at the same time. I have seen boys and girls of nine or ten years of age put a large leaf of tobacco into their mouths, without permitting any saliva to escape; nor will they put aside the tobacco should meat be offered to them, but continue consuming both together. They are said, no doubt correct- ly, to drink only snow water during the winter: to melt which when no wood is to be had, very disgusting and dirty means are resorted to. No- thing is so acceptable to a rein-deer as human 332 BARON WIRANGEL's urine, and I have seen them even run to get it, as Occasion offered. In closing the account of this strange peo- ple, I may mention two remarkable circum- stances: a kettle or cooking utensil is in their language called cookie, but whether the word proceeds, as I conjecture, from the remembrance of the name of Captain Cook, who first supplied them with that utensil, or from the English word denoting the use it is applied to, I admit to be a question. To these vessels, which are of iron, they are much attached, and the stronger and stouter they are, the better; nor will any consideration induce them to take or purchase a copper vessel, although lined with tin, as they consider it poison- ous. Plain raw iron are preferred, and these they will fearlessly and with impunity handle in a temperature of forty degrees of frost by Reaumur. The other circumstance to which I allude is, the occasional migration of large armies of mice, either from, or to this continent and America. Of the annual movements of these small but nume- rous animals in the peninsula of Kamtchatka, I have little doubt; and, contrasting or weighing that knowledge with the circumstance that most of the clothing of the Tchuktchi is embroidered with the skins of mice, I consider the assertion of their annual migration as perfectly warranted. EXPEDITION. 333 My return to the Kolyma occupied me only two days, partly from lightness of carriage, and partly from the hunger of the dogs, there being little or none of their common food offering for sale on the banks of the Aniuy. I was most happy to meet with the Baron Wrangel, who had returned from his expedition round Shelatskoi Noss; I received from him the following account. He was absent a month upon the whole, and followed the course laid down in the chart of reference at the end of the second volumé, which proves that the infor- mation I had derived from the Tchuktchi was per- fectly correct; as well as the contents of my me- morial to the Royal Society, which the Baron had previously read. A bay exists to the east of Shelatskoi Noss, which is in about 70° 5' latitude, the longitude about 175° E. or 6, east of Baranov Kamene, which is exactly half way between Cape North and Baramov Kamene. Tchaon bay, with its two islands, and the dwellings between the island of Illerie, or Sabedei of Shalaouroff, and the main land, were also recognized by the Baron. They were doubtless inhabited, as the expedi- tion was in their tracks for three days. The run of the coast from the Kolyma to Shelatskoi Noss, is about E.N.E. and that from the Noss to the East, very easterly from Cape Kuzmin. No doubt whatever can be now entertained of 334 BARON WRANGEL's Deshmeff having gone round the N.E. Cape, mo other impediment but ice appearing to exist; as little, or less need there be, of Shalaouroff's hav. ing reached it, he having actually described the formation of Tchaon Bay, although he placed it too far to the morthward, as he did also Shelatskoi Noss; while, in fact, the theory of Mr. Coxe re- specting this country is perfectly correct. Baron Wrangel and Cook may be said to have seen across the intervening space which has not actually been traversed by Europeans. I will, however, leave this scientific argument to the merits of the Ap- pendix, and change it for an introduction of some extracts from Baron Wrangel's letter to me, after his first journey across the Frozen Sea, and the track of which will appear upon the chart annex- ed. The Baron observes that, although I should otherwise hear all particulars about the expedition to the north from the Kolyma, still he feels dis- posed to give me some information on the subject. “I have,” he continues, “used your suggestion with some alterations, and what has been done during the last voyage, is certainly done by this invention of yours; used in such a manner as I used it, it proved to be très-risquant. It was, in- deed, a very happy accident, that the white bears having circumnavigated the ice mountain, on the top of which I had made the storehouse, several EXPEDITION. 335 times, did not attempt to ascend it, as they, the bears, would have had no difficulty in destroying such fortifications; although I before thought to the contrary, especially as the dog-master said, that none of the dreadful white-bear regiment had either force or ability to rob us either of our own or the dogs’ provisions, out of its strong con- cealment. Nevertheless, I have seen, during the late voyage, such tricks of these white bears, that the precautions I took for the preservation of our provisions I call a happy accident. Should I make the same voyage the next spring, I will take no fire-wood at all, but take wood prepared to build a stronger cellar within the ice, and dry moss, with fish oil, shall serve to boil the tea-kettle; a cir- cumstance which will much relieve the dogs, as to point of weight, as well as serve us upon our re- turn in respect of fire-wood.” Although I cannot but do justice to the Baron's general and scientific knowledge, I confess I do not know precisely what he means by the term happy accident. The idea I suggested was to prevent an accident, and I suppose, therefore, the Baron meant that it was a happy circumstance that the bears did not ascend the mountain, as in that case the precautions taken would have been useless. To enable the Baron to go farther, with more ease to the dogs, two days’ provisions for 336 BARON WIRANGEL's the homeward voyage were to be buried at every third day's outward voyage: the plan of securing such provisions of course must be left entirely to the ingenuity of the party travelling, as well as to the means presented by the situation of the ice. But I think, with half a dozen people, I could Secure provisions in such a manner as, not indeed to elude the sagacity of the bears, but to prove the inefficacy of their strength when put in com- petition with the sagacity of man. The Baron next proceeds to point out the rather dangerous situation in which he was lat- terly placed, the last mine days of his journey be- ing over a field of ice, in general but half a foot thick, although only in the latter part of April. During many parts of this journey, they came to open channels, five and seven feet wide, and each night brought with it strong north and north- West winds, which made the ice tremble beneath their cold pillows. At times sounds like the roar of thunder would assail their ears, yet prove only to be the shattering of ice hills, and the severing of the fields of ice. At one period the Baron, and his friend, Mr. Matiushkin, were gone in quest of a white bear, to feed the dogs, which had suffered much, when the ice broke under their feet with such a noise, that Mr. M. actually called out “What will now become of us?” while the Baron EXPEDITION, 337 was so convinced of its being thunder, that he looked to the south, in expectation of seeing the lightning that must precede the second peal. The Cossacks, however, pointed out that the ice was breaking, which induced him to make the best of his way towards the close ice, then distant three or four miles. The dog-master and Cossacks ex- pressed much regret at continuing the direct course, but, fortunately, they arrived safe, and reached the Kolyma in the beginning of May. I have used the term fortunate, as the subsequent spring and summer, or rather the continuation of winter, proved the most extraordinary ever known at the Kolyma; a severity attending them which might have permitted the commander of the expe- dition to risk much more in point of time than Baron Wrangel then thought prudent. In one of the following seasons he was actually cast away so early as the month of March : which pe- riod, so far from being entertained or considered as a dangerous one, is usually that allotted to the commencement of a journey over the ice. In these high latitudes there is no actual criterion how to judge of the seasons. The ice in the year 1821 did not break up until the 29th May, O. S. The coldness of the summer was most extraordinary. On the 20th June, 2nd July, and 3rd August, there was much VOI, I. Z 338 BARON WRANGEL’s. snow, and one degree and a half of cold of REAU- MUR, without intermission, accompanied with con- stant N.W. gales. The month of May, although so cold, was the only agreeable weather during spring or summer; and the appearances of a bad season were very distressing. Neither the small rivers running into the Kolyma, nor the Kolyma itself, had on the 15th of August produced any fish, in consequence of the height of the waters. The only hope of the poor inhabitants and of the expedition, rested on the interval betwixt the time of the river freezing and the month of De- cember. On the 13th August, the Baron re- ceived information that the rein-deer chase on the Aniuy and Omelon had entirely failed, and that the Yukagiri were in a state of starvation. The 22d of August it snowed hard, and continued to Snow till the 25th, when the lakes were all frozen over. On the 30th August, Baron Wrangel was frozen up in a boat in the Kolyma, and hoary winter was dated from that period, as the river thence became passable for dogs and nartes. I shall here conclude my observations respecting this indefatigable young officer by saying, that, for a combination of personal exertion and sacri- fice, with the most undoubted scientific know- ledge, especially that of practical and theoretical astronomy, so necessary to conduct an expedition EXPEDITION. 339 of this nature, I believe Baron Wrangel has no equal in the Russian navy. Nor will the opinion I have thus candidly given, in the first edition of my work, have the less weight with the thinking part of the community, when I acquaint them with the hazardous, may perilous, but fortunate result of his last enterprising attempt, in which he, by a HAPPY AccIDENT, was enabled to trace the Asiatic coast from Shelatskoi Noss to Serdze Kamene. The account of it will also be found in the Appendix. CHAPTER VIII. Departure from the Kolyma–Lapteff—Sredne Kolymsk— Kosatchey Ostrog—Verchne Kolymsk—The Zyzanka– Hokusolbetie and Bochiera—Boulouktak — Kourouack— . Terachtack, &c.—Kourdak — Andigezan—Intack—Ome- kon—Nera—Indigirka, Rivers—The Tongousi Tribe— The Koudousou and Kounoumaksala Rivers—The Okota— Okotsk. WINTER was still raging with all its severity when I prepared to quit the Kolyma. I could now, indeed, have no inducement to remain longer; my desire of penetrating through the country of the Tchuktchi no longer existed, but for the purpose of getting across to the opposite continent: and as I had failed, through the avarice of the savages, I determined to proceed to Okotsk, by the direct route, in spite of the re- monstrances of the Commissary, Cossacks, and Yakuti, who were ordered to attend me wherever I might go. The proper mode was by that I had previously come; but I wished of course to avoid near two thousand miles of such sameness, inde- DEPARTURE Flt.0M THE KOLYMA. 341 pendent of my desire to reach Okotsk by the first of June. The Yakuti were so fearful of a route of the kind, that they even attempted to bribe me with presents to take another; but I was reso- lutely fixed upon the new route, and the result will shew that I had only myself to thank for the difficulties I encountered, and the narrow escapes I had so often for my life. To me, however, the hardest day's work was followed by the happiest evening, and the soundest sleep as I lay down on my Snow pillow. With grateful recollections of the hospitality and kind treatment I had experienced from every individual in the commissariat of Kolyma, I de- parted on the 27th of March in a narte royal, that is, one drawn by thirteen dogs, who took me eighty miles in one day; a prodigious day’s journey, as it is considered in this part of the world, for the same dogs to perform. The 1st of May is, however, the period usually calculated on for the Omekon and other rivers breaking up, and I was a long distance from them; I was therefore compelled to hasten, to prevent a detention on the banks of them for six weeks or more. I could not but feel melancholy and sick at heart at parting as it were from a brother, in the per- son of Baron Wrangel. However, I pushed for- ward, and in three days reached Lapteff, one 342 l, APTEFF. hundred and eighty miles from Nishney Kolymsk. The weather was most variable; in the early part of the morning we had 15° of frost, at noon as many of heat, from the reflection of the sun, and in the evening again 10° of frost. The mornings, before the sun appeared, were the coldest I ever endured, being, really, more severe than 40° of frost, owing to the heavy fogs which prevail in the latter end of March and beginning of April, and which strike an indescribable cold to the whole frame. At Lapteff I met my old friend, the venerable prince of ninety-one. He had just returned from a visit to another prince, twenty miles distant, and insisted upon accompanying me the following . morning; and such was his health and capability to bear the piercing morning air, that while I was compelled to walk, as it seemed to save my life, the old Yakut Prince was quietly walking his horse to a sort of humming tune, which may be said to constitute a Yakut's song. There is no regular meaning in what they sing, being made up of any incidental allusions to the weather, trees, rivers, fatigues, horses, and the like, accord- ing to the immediate impulse of the moment. From Lapteff I continued my route to Sredne Kolymsk, where I arrived on the fifth day at noon, much fatigued. I was exceedingly grati- SREIONE KOLYMSK. 343 fied with the repetition of old kindnesses and re- membrances on the part of the inhabitants, as I came along. They were cheerfully looking for- ward to an early summer, in which, alas ! they were bitterly disappointed. They were con- stantly presenting me with the first partridges and hares, which the approaching sun had sent in advance; and even other early delicacies were given me in aid of the long journey I had be- fore me. The day that I reached Sredne Kolymsk I started a large grey wolf, and being on horseback was nearly thrown into the snow, as I had re- peatedly been before. A burnt child is said to dread the fire, so a bit horse dreads a wolf: the one I rode had so suffered. The only pleasure I experienced in Sredne Kolymsk was being housed in the comfortable abode of my old attendant, Peter Trechekoff, who was, in the absence of the commissary, chief of the department. I renewed the protestations of my fidelity and good will towards a person I felt so highly indebted to ; and the certificate which I gave him of his extra- ordinary good conduct and kindness towards me was, I am happy to say, the occasion of his being made a serjeant; beyond which, though he does not at present aspire, he will necessarily attain, as any under officer, whose conduct is good in that rank 344 SIREION E IXO LY MSK. for a certain number of years, may demand the rank of an officer as a recompense. Surely this is a regulation well worthy of imitation in every country. What can be a greater incentive to good conduct, in any department under a government, than the fact of knowing that both a pecuniary and honorary reward attends the exertions of every individual? Patience, Cossack, and you will be the Hetman is an encouraging Russian proverb. I remained with my old friend a couple of days, awaiting a fresh Cossack, who was ordered to attend me to Okotsk. I felt most happy in pre- paring once more to tread a new road, and throw aside the difficulties which were for ever thun- dered in my ears. The poor young love-sick Cossack destined to attend me I could not but pity: he had a positive fear of going to Okotsk, so far from his wife, a pretty young girl, and then again to Yakutsk, where he would be detained five or six months, and thus be kept from his home at least a twelvemonth. These, indeed, were no small complaints. Leaving his home at that time had this additional consequence, that his presence was then most wanted to assist in fishing. The case was not, however, so bad as my readers may imagine; for when a Cossack is absent from his home upon the public service, his family still receive the proportion of fish which KOSATCHEY OSTROG. 345 would have accrued to him had he been present: on such friendly terms do the people live in this part of the world. And upon my promising him that he should return direct to the Kolyma, he was reconciled, and we prepared to depart. Nor was my promise rendered of none effect by Vladi- mir Ushinsky, the chief of Okotsk, on the con- trary, more than I had promised, unminister like, was done for the benefit of this otherwise almost useless Cossack, whose sickness at heart had several times nearly proved his and my ruin. Our first day's journey was to a place called Kasachey, sixty miles, by a good path, on the Ko- lyma, abounding with summer establishments for fishing, else a dreary low waste, producing nothing but stunted wood. I felt really happy in the even- ing in the comfortable residence of a rich Yakut, who had married a Cossack's daughter. She was dreadfully afflicted with the hiccoughs, and I again tried my medical skill, by giving her a slap on the back. It had no effect ; and her husband then told me that she had the dieavel ootra, or the devil in her belly. It was apparent there was something in the case ; but whether a devil or a child, I do not pretend to know. Whatever it was, it effectually deprived me of sleep. The malady continued the whole night : though it 346 KOSATCHEY OSTROG. seems the parties afflicted with it can, during the fit, sleep soundly : but on the instance I have this day seen of its effects upon a lovely young woman I will not dwell; for it is too melancholy. The following day, over numerous large lakes, and a rich pasture country, I resumed my jour- ney. Many Yakuti live in the environs, em- ployed in fishing, and in the chase of bears, rein- deer, sables, and squirrels: the latter are here in- numerable. In the afternoon we were thrown into a snow pit: the fall and plunging of our horses threw us off our saddles; and the horses, finding themselves disengaged from their burthens, scrambled up the pit, and left us and our bag- gage to shift as we could. After ten miles walk we reached a yourte, whose owner saddled his own beasts, and sent them for the baggage; while our own Yakuti went in search of their own horses. I was, meantime, made perfectly com- fortable, and amused myself with the tricks of a shamane, or sorcerer, some of which were indeed strange enough. He wore a sort of short sortout, covered over with a variety of small pieces of iron, about the size and shape of the pointed blade of a penknife; his boots were embroidered, as were also his cap and gloves. The perform- ance of course began by smoking a pipe ; then taking his tambourine and bolouyak, or tambour- KOSATCHEY OSTROG. 347 ine-stick, he seated himself crossed-legged near the person to be exorcised, and began to sing a doleful ditty, accompanied by more doleful music; the import of the song I could not gather. After this introduction he began to jump, hop, and fling about, roaring, screaming, and making the most hideous distortions of face and body, so that I actually believed him to be mad. I never felt more pain for any one than I felt for this sha- mane, certainly much more than for the sick per- son, on whose behalf his incantations were made. After this violent exercise, he drew his knife, and to all appearance, plunged it into his belly. I really felt alarmed, believing that he had actually committed suicide: he, however, drew back the knife in my presence without any effusion of blood, and indeed without any actual incision being made. He then formally announced that the evil spirit would not triumph, provided the customary sacrifice were made, of a fat mare. The party were then dismissed, with an invitation to come to the next day's feast, when the mare was to be cooked. In all this conjuration there was indeed no slight of hand, but rather a slight of the belly, and the case is, that the shamanes are, from habit, accustomed to draw in that part of the belly which the knife is supposed to pene- trate, to a distance of five or six inches; they 348 KOSATCHEY ()STRO G. never, however, use other than their own knives, from fear, I presume, of their being too long. The power of these impostors over the ignorant multitude is very great, but they do not wander far from their principality, nor are they nume- rous. Their pretensions extend to the cure of diseases, changing the weather, affording success- ful chase, and finding stolen things. In the early part of the evening, a ludicrous circumstance occurred betwixt the above sha- mane and myself. I had invited him to take tea with me; and when he came I put a little to- bacco in the palm of my Cossack's hand, to give to the shamane. The Cossack, however, care- lessly or ignorantly, put it into the tea-kettle, sup- posing it to be tea, and the mistake was not known until the kettle was brought boiling hot, and pouring it out, we discovered by the flavour that it was tobacco-water. The shamane was highly indignant and enraged, the people of the house still more so, and the sick person must die, unless a second sacrifice was made. This I was extremely anxious to avoid ; and the only remedy I had, was to part with half of the spirits I pos- sessed, which, although a loss of consequence to me, I readily endured to prevent the impostor from procuring a second gormandising feast at the expense, if not the ruin, of the poor people. VERCH NE KOLYMSK. 349 As it was, the shamane got roaring drunk on the result of the mistake, and so I left him. The horses did not return with the baggage till near midnight, when one bag of my clothing was missing, as well as my pipe ; the last, a se- rious loss, as it was my friend, companion, com- forter, and almost sole enjoyment. I could have mourned for it, like Sancho after his dapple, but it was fruitless, and I accordingly wished the pos- sessor the enjoyment of it for my sake. Next day over a stubby heath, affording a fine view of the mountains to the south-east, we gained sixty miles. I observed on the lakes numerous parties fishing through the ice, who gave me a supply whenever I desired it. On the fourth day I reached Verchne Kolymsk late in the evening, suffering much from the loss of skin, which left my nose and lips bare. The whole distance was two hundred and fifty miles. Verchne Kolymsk is considered a large village, having fifteen dwellings, with near two hundred inhabitants. It stands in a most bleak and ex- posed situation, on the right bank of the Yas- ashna, at about a mile from its junction with the Kolyma. It was at this place that the vessels for Captain Billing's expedition were built, the country to the southward abounding in fine tim- ber: and yet it is considered, although only so far 350 THE ZYZANKA. north as the latitude 60° 30', to be one of the coldest places in Eastern Siberia, the thermometer falling as low as 43° of Reaumur. Verchne Ko- lymsk has nothing remarkable to boast of but a large cross erected by Billings, on which are cut out the names of the European people who com- posed his expedition—an expedition which per- formed nothing. I remained one day to change my Cossack, preferring rather to beat up for a volunteer than to take on the old one, but to no purpose. Whether from fear of me or of the journey it is unnecessary to enquire, but the old one must go' My route from the Kolyma was towards the Koussoul Bolouktak, a lake so named from a fish which inhabits it. The first part of the journey was attended with a little snow, but I felt con- soled by the number of pigeons and hares which increased our sea stores, for thus I may name them, since I had really more to do with water than with land. At length I reached the Zy- zamka, and at twenty miles further, the last habitation of the Kolyma district. We halted on a rocky hill, and encountered some difficulty in bringing fire-wood for the night, from a distance of at least half a mile. The second day, with in- finite labour, through deep and soft snow, we reached twenty miles further, encamping at the THE ZYZANKA. 35 | foot of the mountains which I had before seen stretching from the south-east. The guide who, though a Yakut, spoke Russian well, proved a choice and jovial fellow ; while the Cossack, a dull and melancholy milk-sop, was throwing every possible obstacle in my way to induce me to take the other road, or return. This, it appears from letters which I have since received, he was di- rected to do by a person holding an official situa- tion; an act which, if known at the government of Yakutsk, Irkutsk, or St. Petersburg, would, I am sure, have been visited with severe punish- ment: but commissaries in such places are gene- rally both mean and worthless. Still along the banks of the Zyzanka we continued to the south- west, picking up at intervals partridges and hares which had fallen in the traps. The scenery at times somewhat interesting, and the hills com- posed of slate. The road I was now upon was that formerly used by the post from Yakutsk to the river Ko- lyma, that is, by way of Okotsk, but discontinued in consequence of the difficulties which constantly presented themselves, as well as by the discovery of the direct route I had before undertaken, and of which I have given a sketch. By this route a man can never be satisfied, as when there is much snow, there is more labour; and when little 352 HOKUSOLBETIE AND BOCHIERA RIVERS. snow, much water; and when no snow, much ice, and more danger, for the ice then becomes so slippery as to be almost impassable. The reflection of the sun at first produced se- vere effects upon my eyes; but I met it with a good grace, as neither sun nor snow would give way to me. From the Zyzanka I entered a nar- row defile formed by two lofty ranges of moun- tains, the valley betwixt which runs from east to west; the latter was my course. The southern range was bold and perpendicular, and conse- quently of bare rock. The northern branch, which was open to the south, rose into gentle and luxuriant eminences, affording a fine contrast to the desolation on the left. Our party continued to feed upon partridges and hares from the cha- rity traps. The birds are beguiled by touching a small wooden fork, supporting a log or tree which falls direct on the animal and causes instant death. These traps are so numerous, that I have in a day got three and four braces of hares and partridges. They are set by the wandering Yakuti and Tom- gousi, open to all the world, with an understand- ing only, that the trap shall be again set—no hard condition to hungry people. - We at length entered upon the Hokusolbetie and Bochiera, two rivers, which, entering the Zyzanka at a narrow defile, form a sort of frozen THE ZYZANKA. 353 torrent, over which the horses had great difficulty to pass, as piles of ice lay in every cross direction. The Cossack and guide now began also to suffer, while I was gaining ground from habit and su- perior strength of constitution. The guide was almost blind, while the Cossack was afflicted with a severe diarrhoea arising from want of food, for our game had failed us, and he was too much a Greek to eat horse-meat. It was, however, his own fault, for he always ate voraciously whenever an occasion offered. With these two invalids I resumed the journey, prescribing for them, but without effect, and at noon was obliged again to halt, as they were unable to proceed. The heat of the sun by Fahrenheit was 80°, and the route was bad, ascending a perilous and laborious chain of elevated hills. The work which now devolved upon me was so much more than ordinary, that I could not but feel it severely : it was, however, my duty to assist those whom I had demanded to assist me, and I could make no complaint. The snow was deep, but soft, the noon-day heat melting the surface, and the might's frost again freezing it, just sufficiently to bear a man with snow shoes; so that in addition to our other difficulties the horses began to fail. We never- theless continued our route, gaining the Zyzanka, and latterly crossing the mountains which confine VOI,. I, 2 A 354 BOUI, OUKTAK. it. We then entered the most dismal, dreary, and inhospitable valley I have ever seen ; not a blade of grass, nor moss, not a shrub, tree, nor even a morsel of drift wood to be seen, but one tremendous slate mountain valley. We encamped on the banks of the stream, faring upon our fro- zen horse-flesh and a little biscuit—our stock of spirits was all consumed, and I longed to reach some habitation. My poor Cossack now grew worse, having been three days without food, and So weak that it was necessary to lash him to the horse. The guide was almost blind, being unable even to bring the horses in from the pasture. I was thus compelled to perform the functions of Ostler, wood-cutter, guide, doctor, cook, and tra- veller ; regretting only the necessity that com- pelled me so to act, for otherwise I took so little heed of it, that I slept the sounder. Leaving this desolate valley, our route lay over a few rugged hills, by a path which seemed to point itself out as the proper route. We soon entered upon the river Koulgall, and the romantic valley of Boulouktak, named from the lake, stream, and fish produced from it, the second of which enters the narrow defile in the elevated Southern ranges. The prospect is most beauti- ful: tolerable sized wood occupies the fore-ground, with a small hill, which I ascended, to obtain a BOUI, OUKTAK. 355 better view of the magnificent panorama. To de- scribe it would require a far more able pen or pencil than mine. The southern range appeared much indented, and seemed to cast a shade over their otherwise milky appearance. Two yourtes on the borders of a lake were on the left, while from the right, the river winded over the plaim. The whole view occupied from south-west to east, and from west to north-east, so that the valley runs from east-north-east to west-south-west. The breadth of it is about twenty miles. I re- mained at a miserable yourte five days, to see what I could do in restoring the Cossack, but in vain, and departed with a Yakut, six feet high and stout in proportion, the largest I have ever seen. He was, however, a mere brute, not know- ing a word of the Russian language, a great glut- ton, stupid, obstinate, and immovably lazy. It was with great reluctance I commenced the road with him, but there was no alternative, he being the only person who knew any thing of the route towards the Omekon. At about fifteen miles, having passed three small lakes, we reached the base of the southern range of hills. We as- cended them against wind and snow, and night closed in upon us as we had reached thirty miles, in the bosom of the mountains. It was impossi- ble to keep in a fire from the driving of the snow: 2 A 2 .35 (; TERACHTACK, ETC. RIVERS. I therefore managed as well as I could, while my half-savage gigantic companion comforted himself with at least twenty pounds of frozen horse meat. Next day I crossed with my companion the Kourouack mountains, at the base of which runs the little rapid river of this name, which we passed with difficulty, as it was giving way very fast to the warmth of the sun, the thermometer standing at 27° of Reaumur. The mountains now exhibit a constant and uniform succession of equilateral triangles, or pyramids of stone slate, with layers of the same yellow earth, called stone- butter, which I have before noticed as being eaten by the aborigines. The next river was the Terachtack and Outachan-Taroun Oract, or large icy river, as it signifies in the Yakut dialect. Our route proved difficult, now over overflowed mea- dows and large rivers, or elevated mountains, well wooded with larches, alder, and some pine. On the fifth day we ascended a stupendous peak, which overlooks not only the surrounding country but also the other mountains; it is almost a bare rock, and was so slippery that the horses got very severe falls in the ascent, rolling back in one mo- ment as much as it had taken ten minutes labour to achieve. I almost despaired of gaining the summit, but we at length succeeded, and then the horses actually slid down the opposite preci- TERACHTACK, ETC. RIVERS. 357 pice of one hundred feet high, the rock being covered with frozen snow. For myself I con- sidered it, as it really was, an ice mountain, and desiring the guide to follow, passed down without any accident. I was now indeed in a desperate dilemma; but Providence, which ever watches the wants of all creatures, sent to my assist- ance the sick Cossack, who, having got better, and being without baggage, had followed our track with a couple of horses. He came in time also to tell us that we had mistaken the route. His duty pointing out the necessity of seeing me safe to Okotsk, I did not feel so thankful as I else should, because I suspected that most of his illness was pretended, and that conscience had told him he was acting wrong, or he might not have re- turned, having already received permission from me to proceed to the Kolyma. - We passed the might in a dreary situation, with- out any fire. My tea and bread were both con- sumed : mothing in short remained but horse-flesh, which I found very good. The Cossack had brought a few birds, but as I knew that such dainties were all he could, or would eat, of course I gave them up to him. Next day we considered how to ascend the mountain; the Snow was solid and slippery, and there appeared no other mode than the one which we adopted,—creeping up the 358 NEIGHBOUR PIOOD OF THE side, and chopping the surface with a hatchet, at frequent intervals, to obtain some sort of footing. In this manner I and the Cossack ascended, and making all the leather thongs fast together, we hauled up the baggage and let it down on the opposite side; thus placing ourselves between it and the horses. To get up the latter required more management; for, accustomed as the horses are to the most laborious and dangerous journeys, and with all their sagacity and tameness, I found they could not ascend above half the mountain, the fatigue was too great; in short, they were compelled to give it up, and recoil once more to the base in a state of perfect agony. Thus passed the day ! Our situation now seemed des- perate; the horses had received no food for two days, with more than ordinary hard work, during which we had enjoyed no fire: yet still ‘neboice avoce lebo' (fear not—perhaps) were the rallying words, and these alone served us for supper. Our monster of a guide was quite insensible to our situation, and sat grumbling that he had not more than twenty pounds of meat a-day, with such hard work. This night was passed even more miserably than the last, as we had not even the benefit of our bedding or clothing, both of which had been hurled down the opposite valley, without respect TERACHTACK, ETC. RIVERS. 359 to whom they belonged. We rose, the third morning, prepared for hard work; and our first attempt was to haul the horses up the precipice. We in part succeeded, as the strongest were actu- ally received, and cast adrift on the opposite side to feed. This occupied us all day, and the third night was passed with the cheering hopes of re- suming our journey the following day; but these were frustrated, as it was not until late in the evening that we succeeded in passing all the horses we designed to keep : one we were obliged to kill and carry with us as food. Our bully- headed Yakut too became wonderfully alert on this occasion, knowing he should receive an extra allowance of meat, were it for no other reason than to lighten the other brutes. I however de- termined to make some reserve, and accordingly taking a quantity of the slaughtered animal suffi- cient to serve the Yakut on his return, I buried it in the snow, which I thought would continue un- melted for ten or twelve days, and marked the place with a cross. This precaution I considered was more than ordinarily necessary with my gigantic companion, who had infinitely less con- cern towards the prevention of future starvation, than to the support of present gluttony. The only mode of passing the last three horses, was by making a regular staircase up the hill, by 360 TERACHTACK, means of axes, and strewing it with earth; myself and the Cossack, who were on the hill, holding a rope attached to the horse's head, while the guide behind, whose task it was to flog the beast, had no sinecure, as from his immoderate size he was al- most himself incapable of moving. The result of the last five days was that we had lost five days' travelling, five days of the best season, and five days which were worth fifty of those which fol- lowed: the fault was not mine ! The weather was still very cold, and I felt some relief in getting close to a cheerful fire. Next day I di- rected my course by a compass, for the guide knew mothing, about west-south-west, intending if possible to gain the river Indigirka. We crossed many hills, deep in snow, and left two horses dead, a circumstance which seemed to please the guide, whom I was consequently ob- liged to declare under martial law; being confi- dent that he cared not if I and the Cossack perished. I was now compelled to put the little baggage we had left upon the spare horses, and we all continued the journey on foot, encamp- ing for the night on the banks of the Kourdak, which we traversed the next day with tolerable ease; being clear of snow, with a fresh breeze right-aft: in the evening it turned to rain, the first real shower since September, as we halted KOURDAK, ETC. RIVERS. 36 i on the banks of the same stream, having walked about fifteen miles. We passed the night in a sort of growling way, and renewed our journey towards the Terachtack over a pleasant, pasture, and well wooded country. All the rivers which I had lately passed run into the Indigirka, and although small, are rapid streams. My guide was now so negligent and useless, that I was compelled to desire the Cos- sack to flog him with his own whip, in a manner which, in England, would justly have been consi- dered severe; but I am satisfied the necessity and danger of our situation justified the measure, for the fellow was really deceiving us, to say mothing of the risk which was very great, unprovided as we were with nets or fire-arms. Leaving another horse to abide his fate, we continued on, dividing the extra baggage between us. We crossed the Ambardach and Chousgindrach, adding another walk to the fatigue we had undergone; and being still eighty miles from the nearest habitation, we rested at a rich pasture two days, for the sake of the horses, and on the third reached the rivers Andigizan, Imtach, and Omekon. The country had now become gradually very agreeable and open, and the weather was very fine. Great quantities of game, as geese, ducks, partridges, and woodcocks, hovered over our heads, and we 362 RIVERS. saw numerous traces of quadrupeds; as bears, wolves, foxes, rein-deer, and hares, with some- times that of an elk. The last day of this jour- ney, through an extra effort, induced by the hope of success, we reached the first habitation of the Omekon district; walking and swimming that day near thirty miles: I say swimming, for we were frequently obliged to wade across the rivers, and to swim over many yards of rapid stream, which I accomplished for myself by means of a rope fastened to a horse's neck. I reached, all well, the Bolouvanach, and then the more considerable Nera, all rivers which unite with the Indigirka. I was received at a yourte, the most pleasant and hospitable, as I then thought, I had ever seen, where I procured two fresh horses to carry the baggage, and continued the route on foot, leading all the other horses, now reduced to five. My overgrown guide was of course discharged. I could not even remain a moment to refresh, as the rivers were breaking up and threatening to insulate me for some months from the rest of the world. The Omekon river was still distant one hundred and fifty miles, and I had scanty means of reaching it under four days, even supposing as- sistance given: but I pressed on, gratified to catch now and then in the distant horizon the sight of Smoke, which I had not seen during the last jour- THE WALLEY. 363 ney of more than three hundred miles. Not one individual, stationary or wandering, had I met from the lake Boulouktak; but now we were, as may be termed, risen from the dead, renewed with fresh courage, and my Cossack particularly inspirited with a regale of beef which had been given him at the first yourte. For myself, I pre- ferred to partake of the old horse-meat I had still left; having a mind to shame the Cossack, and show him that he ought to eat any thing, when necessity dictated. I had passed twelve days without any other food than the horse-meat we had brought, generally eaten in a raw state, and a small part of the animal we had killed; yet I was never in better health. In this state I reach- ed the hospitable abode of the Prince Nicolai. Our journey had lain on the rivers Nera and In- digirka, the country sterile and dreary and as de- solate as Zashiversk, lower down the latter river. The second day I again halted at the abode of a Yakut Knez (prince), who presented me with half a rein-deer, and treated me with milk and tea, making me, as I thought, the happiest of men: – such is the effect produced by present comforts and enjoyments upon past hardships. Independent of the provisions given to me, I was obliged to receive two red foxes, as a tribute. They were presented to me by the hands of a 364 OMEKON, tolerably good-looking Yakut girl, whose father, with two other primces, formed a part of my train to the abode of the prince of the Omekon, where we arrived the following day: and I cannot help asserting, that I never saw a race of people more worthy of this honorary distinction; they certainly combined in their own breasts humanity, justice, and common sense. The latter part of the journey changed for the better; from rugged and sterile hills and marshy swamps, to beautiful rising and well wooded emi- mences and fertile meadow lands; from perfect desolation, to comparative populousness. The first sight of so many smoking chimneys gladdened my heart in an unusual degree. I felt the value of life, and never enjoyed it more than in the hos- pitable yourte of Peter Gotossop, the Yakut Prince of the Omekon. He had come thirty miles, in consequence of an express, to meet me. I need not say how much I enjoyed a bed of rein-deer skins in his yourte, after lodging fifteen days, without intermission, in the snow: at times actually immersed in water, which pro- ceeded either from the melting of the snow, the fall of the dew, or the warmth of our own bodies upon a half-frozen surface of snow. The valley of Omekon is, indeed, a romantic and fertile spot. About five hundred individuals O MEKON. 365 are reckoned within its principality, who are scattered about, wandering with the numerous droves of cattle, as the season and height of the river will permit, or compel. The woods are very fine and large, consisting of birch, pine, larch, and cedar, the last producing a highly flavoured, though small, nut, which is exported to Okotsk and Kamtchatka. The quantity of cattle in this valley is prodi- gious, no less than three thousand mares, and near two thousand cows, the property of the few rich Yakuti. The consumption of them is, how- ever, not small, especially of horses, owing to the great demand made by the government, in forced levies, for Okotsk, and the more northern districts. But so fond are the Yakuti of their horses, that, to avoid selling them, and sending them upon such a service, they drive a couple of young bullocks as an exchange for a horse, to the first place, or will present another person with a young bullock for each horse that is supplied him to carry on the extra service. The duty thus performed by them is undertaken purely for gluttony. The substitute instantly makes a feast of the young bullock, and trusts to the strength of his horse to make good the duty imposed upon it; yet, strange to say, it is seldom that a respectable Yakut will either ride 366 OMEKON. himself, or suffer others to ride, much less will he load a good horse: indeed, they are kept rather for show, or for breed, than for use : thus the duty falls upon the poor. In the event of a horse falling on the road, the Yakut is of course obliged to buy or get another as he can. Sometimes he will exchange in time, by giving three for two, and five for two, according to the state they are in: generally, however, he will kill them, and em- ploy other people to perform the latter part of the journey, giving or promising a dead horse or two in payment, and himself returning on foot. I remained three days at the Omekon, and was again obliged to leave my Cossack, from ill health and fatigue. Having procured in his stead a young lad, born in the valley of Omekon, with him and four of the native princes in my train, I departed along the banks of the river, running along one of the most picturesque and finest valleys in the universe, yielding the best grass in the province, and abounding with animals of the chase. Having reached thirty miles, we put up at the yourte of a wealthy Knez, In the passage of the river each horse was attended by four men, owing to the velocity of the stream; the men resisting it by means of stout poles thrust into the bed of the river on their leeward side. The passage was certainly dangerous, but O MEI(ON. 367 necessary to be accomplished without delay, be- fore the melting of the snow on the lofty and magnificent mountains all around render the river terrific and impassable. The Omekon uniting with the Indigirka not far from hence, constitutes the latter for a season a first-rate river in Siberia. Already the meadow lands on each side of the river represent innumerable lakes, which are swum over by the horses with much difficulty. At eighty miles we exchanged horses: here I had a difference with the Cossack and guide, as to which horse I should ride, both insisting on the one proposed to me being the most proper. As I did not like his appearance, I said I was not accus- tomed to take the best in their estimation, nor even in my own; therefore I would be content with that which was already saddled for the guide. The latter said it was a vicious one, that it stumbled, startled, and, indeed, had all sorts of defects. I persisted, however; observing to the guide, that I was accustomed to those matters, and, therefore, preferred giving him the best horse. My reason for persisting in this paradoxi- cal argument is, that I know few people will ever recommend that which they consider as the best horse; they will rather retain it for themselves: certainly I have never been deceived when riding a horse which was intended for guide or Cossack. 368 O MEKON. Recourse was at length had to frighten me out of my determination to attempt the journey to Okotsk at such a season of the year. The princes proposed that I should remain with them three or four weeks, when the rivers would subside, and the journey would then be even agreeable. All, however, that they could get from me was to go with horses one hundred miles farther, and then take rein-deer. Their excellent and clean yourtes, the hospitality of the people, the productions of the country, the quantity of partridges, ducks, geese, plovers, and fine beef, presented to me, the richness of the cream, and refreshing flavour of the wild berries, above all, the romantic scenery, which abounds, and the happiness which reigns in the valley of Omekom, might, indeed, have proved strong allurements with me to pass my life with them, but held not out sufficient charms to induce me to avoid a difficult journey. The weather was now very fine, but the nights and mornings were still cold. The princes continued to accompany me through their magnificent retirement, which is near five hundred miles from any other establish- ment, Okotsk and Boulouktak being the nearest. I had a long conversation with the Prince about yasack, a tribute peculiar to Siberia. He said that the quantity was nothing, but that the mode of collecting it was a serious evil. The tribute OMEKON. 369 they would freely give to the Emperor, but it was what the commissaries took from them by force, and which they gave to avoid vexatious and liti- gious treatment, that was oppressive: and these commissaries have great power. Whether yasack is or is not an impolitic tax, remains to be proved; and whether a direct tax upon certain articles consumed by the Yakuti, and all aborigines, would not yield a greater revenue, may be doubted : at all events, the present system is liable to the greatest injustice and robbery. I have no doubt that each commissary receives from the district he governs, more furs for himself than for the Emperor. The Prince was not a little surprised when I told him, that, comparatively, he paid little taxes, and that other countries paid more. Among many taxes, I told him, that in England he could not shoot wild ducks without permission, and even if he did shoot them in his own garden, he must not take them up to eat. Finding him incredulous, I then told him that he could not have more than a certain number of windows to his house without paying a tax. These two samples sufficed to make him perfectly satisfied with his government, till I informed him, on the other hand, that no person in England could be compelled to carry government or private goods without being paid his own price. Every VOI, I 9 B 370 OMEEKON, thing, however, which I told him to prove the evi- dent superiority of England, as to the personal liberty of the subject, failed to weaken his natural preference of wandering over his native soil, to the visiting of strange lands. Thus we rode along the picturesque valley for twenty miles, when we crossed numerous lakes, which, from their local situation, were not as yet melted. They are sur- rounded by opulent Yakuti establishments during the summer season, for the fish which abounds in them. We next crossed the mountains, and entered upon another fine pasture country, watered by the Torrourack; and halted at the last yourte in the government of Yakutsk. It was a miserable place, although the kindness of its inhabitants procured me a quantity of game. In its vicinity I passed through a herd of rein-deer, attended by the wandering Tongousi I was in search of. Their chief was, however, forty miles distant, whither I repaired the next day, along a wide expanding valley, opening to the south-east, and reached at sunset the encampment of Prince Shoumieloff. Having previously sent a herald in advance, I was received by him, with his sword by his side, his medals suspended from the neck, and dressed in a rich suit of black velveteen, and a cocked hat. I could not help laughing at the grotesque appear- OMER ON . 37 ) ance of the prince, while I pitied him, and de- spised the means which had been used to divest so ignorant a man of his property, by the lure of honours of this kind. I do not by these words mean to intimate, that the necessity for such dis- tinctions does not exist; but I do say, that the purposes for which they are conferred on an ig- morant savage, are of the most despicable nature. This man, Prince Shoumieloff, was formerly a rich Tongousian ; now he is a poor one: he had as many thousands of rein-deer, as he has now hundreds. But his free presents, added to extor- tions and exactions, to prevent the chance of forced, although useless services, have so reduced his property, that he is obliged to eat fish, which is considered by the rein-deer Tongousi as a hard- ship; and to send out his people to maintain them- selves in the woods, with their bows and arrows. Powder is too dear, or not to be had, but by a present to the chief of more than its equivalent; he having the power to deny it altogether. Shou- mieloff now dreads going to Okotsk, even in search of moss for his rein-deer, preferring, as he says, to live a real Tongousian wanderer, than a servile tributary to chiefs, commissaries, and other officers, although he glories in paying what is just. I found him an obliging sort of man, although 2 B 2 372 OMEKON. too free a use of liquor had made him at times a quarrelsome one. We took a pipe and a glass of vodka together, and, as he spoke the Russian lan- guage, we descanted upon the means he had of accommodating me with rein-deer, as far as Okotsk. He said, what was true, that he had only just left the vicinity of that place, in search of northern pastures, and that although he might possibly be able to reach Okotsk, he would still lose the benefit of the pasturage; as by the time he could return, winter would have commenced. I felt the force of his reasoning, but the service was his in point of law, as the season for employ- ing or calling out of horses had not yet com- menced ; and therefore over a fresh glass of vodka, which had been given to me, on the Omekon, by a retired Cossack, he consented to take me. In the neighbourhood there are eighty-seven of his tribe under his command, over whom he holds considerable power, as I have frequently witness- ed; but they are in general a hard working peo- ple. I was amused with their manner of catching rein-deer, as it reminded me of the hunting of wild bullocks I had seen in Mexico; with this difference only, that there the man rides a horse fully trained, and here a rein-deer. They use a long line, which is coiled up in their hands, as OMEKON. 373 sailors handle a log line, and galloping past the intended victim, they with much dexterity throw the noose, at the end of the line, over the horns. In America it is more dangerous, and the horse- man is sometimes obliged to seek safety in flight, unless he can run the bullock into a thick enclo- sure, where he becomes entangled by the length of the line. Next day I paid the Prince a formal visit at his principal tent. He received me again in his gala dress, presented me with tea, tobacco, and toasted reim-deer meat, and lastly with the raw marrow of the fore legs, the last I esteemed most, and when eaten in a frozen state, is in my opinion superior to any other luxury of the kind, except raw fish. He had purposely killed a rein-deer for me and sent me half; I of course presented him with some tobacco and powder, and upon the de- mand of his wife, with a bottle of spirits, in return for which she gave me two red foxes. On the third day we departed with fifty head of rein-deer; his whole herd consisting of about two thousand: fifteen were put at my disposal, while the rest were retained for his own consumption and emergencies. The Prince said, that as none of his people knew the summer mountain route, he would accompany me. I took this as a good omen of his kindness to me, and his desire to forward me on 374 OMEKON. my way: the result will, however, prove how far I was mistaken. At ten miles we halted in a pleasant valley in a violent snow storm. The Tongousi were not long before they pitched their tent; but I preferred the open pure air, with all the annoyance of the snow, to the harbour of such a close place, and with such a filthy set: I will, however, do the Prince the justice to say, that he begged I would take refuge in his tent, enlarging upon its comforts, &c. We continued our route thirty miles the next day; the first half along the valley, and the other over the hills leading to the river Torrourack, which we had crossed before. The third day the laden rein-deer began to lag and droop ; the snow was very deep, and the nasten, or the melted and re-frozen snow, was not sufficient to bear the animals. A rein-deer can- not carry above one hundred pounds upon his back, but with that and good roads they may be able to go thirty and forty miles: otherwise, six or seven miles a day, when heavy laden, is the average. We shot a few partridges, for the Ton- gousi in general have guns, and secured one wild rein-deer, which last was equally divided between his party and mine. The wild rein-deer are ge- nerally considered as of those who formerly be- longed to them, but had strayed away. By some little trickery they are decoyed into their camps; OMEKON. 375 otherwise wild and tame rein-deer have a natural aversion to one another. The fourth and fifth days we made but little progress, the weather was bad, and the rein-deer dropping off, for we had already lost four by fa- tigue. The Prince grew angry, and threatening either to leave me or carry me back, to which, as on the one hand I felt no way inclined to submit, I was careful on the other not to compel him, by provoking or abusive conduct, well knowing the character of the Tongousi. We reached an ele- vated pass in the mountains, which leads to the vicinity of Idgiga, but were unable to cross it, owing to the state of the snow. The sixth day we renewed the attempt upon the passage, but were again compelled to give up, three laden rein- deer being dead, and the rest so weak as to be unable to convey the carcases or the baggage. The former was a sad loss to the poor man, but I could only pity him. We remained for three days to recruit the rein-deer, and then determined again to make for the Omekon, and attempt the long passage with horses. The reasons which in- fluenced us to turn back, appeared to me suffici- ently strong; and as the Prince complained that he had not force sufficient to take my baggage, I was obliged to destroy the greater part. The moment Mr. Shoumieloff saw what I was about, 376 OMEKON. he remonstrated upon the crime; asking, why I did not give the things to him 2 as he could take them away for himself, although he would not for me. I said I would make him a present of nearly all the baggage I had, if he would show me the way to Okotsk by the 20th of May. He de- clined, and I persisted in burning my clothing and bedding, for I felt convinced he had been duping me, compelling me, as he thought, to forsake my baggage, that he might reap the benefit; nor was the destruction of my wardrobe of little import, rigged out as I had been by Baron Wrangel and the generous inhabitants of the Kolyma. Finding H was not to be outwitted nor dissuaded, he brought forward the image of the virgin and the saint he was named after, saying that I must be a heretic and no priest of any country—he spit, swore, stamped, and crossed himself like a madman. I merely laughed at him, and although I should have had a laborious task to retrace my steps alone to the Omekom, I was determined to run the risk, and complete the desolation by burning every thing I had which he would not carry, and which was not actually necessary to the season of the year. At length he told me it had been pre- viously arranged that I should return to the Omekon ; and there in fact I re-arrived on the eighteenth day, re-crossing the Torrourack and OMEKON. 377 Boulabot rivers with much difficulty. The coun- try over which I had lately wandered was bar- ren, but presented some fine scenery—numerous lakes are seen, and the wood is thick and tall. It is a favourite resort of the Tongousi, where they get fine moss for the deer, good fishing, and plenty of squirrels and foxes; the latter alone serving to pay the yasack, as well as to purchase the few articles of necessity and luxury which they re- quire, at the annual fair held at Okotsk in the month of June or July, according to the season. Upon leaving the Prince Shoumieloff, I pur- chased a fine rein-deer of him for the last of my tobacco which I had bought at the Omekon. The deer might weigh about one hundred and fifty pounds, which I thought a sufficient quantity of meat to enable me to reach Okotsk. The Ton- gousian again wished to steal a march upon me, insisting that he had not sold me the skin, but the meat. As I had no bed I was not disposed to be so easily outwitted, and therefore replied, that I was not obliged to kill the rein-deer until I thought proper; but that when I did he should have the skin, provided he would accompany me for that purpose. Poor Shoumieloff felt much annoyed at being thus matched, especially as the knife was ready to sacrifice the poor animal, from which I, however, desisted to secure myself a bed. 378 OMEKO N. Fresh horses having been procured for me I left for ever the Omekon; receiving from my old friend Gotossop a quarter of a young bullock, and a dead horse for the use of the Yakuti: besides a pood and a half, or sixty pounds, of rye flour, and at least ten poods, or four hundred pounds, of butter and sour milk. The first day we halted at ten miles on the banks of the Koudousou, at pre- sent a large and rapid river full of floating ice, which rendered the passage of it on the following day highly dangerous, though we had a small canoe, which served to tow a horse over each time; as it was, the poor animal suffered much. On reaching the other side, my medical skill was called into requisition. I had got the credit of curing asthma, palsy, sore eyes, and the like, and as this was done gratis, I got many patients. Had I possessed a medical book I might probably have done some good. From the Koudousou the country was quite overflowed for twenty miles, exhibiting numerous habitations perfectly insulated; indeed many of the people do ply about in canoes, keeping them for this case of emergency. My next route was on the right bank of the Kourounaksouta, which, like the other rivers in this valley, unites with the Omekon. In the evening I had prepared for my supper what is termed salamatt, a mixture which OMEKON. 379 I found very palatable. It is rye flour boiled in butter, and reduced in thickness, when boiling, to a substance like burgoo, or hasty pudding, not unlike what I had eaten when going down the Volga. The two following days we got on very well, making near sixty miles over low marshy swamps; a brace of ducks were shot, and we passed the evening comfortably. Having re-crossed the Koudousou, we reached the Konkuy, also uniting with the Omekon, where a chain of mountains commence, running to the south-east and south-west. Our horses began now to suffer for want of food, as the pastures are better suited for rein-deer. There are hence, from the Konkuy, two roads to Okotsk, one by the west, the other by the east bank of the Okota: the former requires seven, the latter ten days to reach, without casualties. The former is over a level but continual swamp, the latter over high and rugged stony mountains. I preferred the former, though with the chance of being detained from the rapidity of the river or the quantity of loose ice, being willing to assist the horses of the poor Yakuti, as the mountain route affords but bad pasture and a worse road. We made thirty miles along a valley bounded by high peaked mountains, in a romantic spot, and near a rapid of the Koudousou, which makes much noise. I observed a meat tomb, with a cross 380 OM EKON. over it, to the memory of a Lamut or Tongousian prince, who had died here a few years ago, while wandering with his rein-deer. We were now much annoyed with a consider- able fall of rain, and passed a bad might in consequence. Next day there was every appear- ance of the rain continuing, and I reduced the allowance of meat one-half, not knowing how long we might be detained. A hurricane coming on, we were obliged to halt, and were most unpleasantly off in our wet leather clothes. As soon as pos- sible, however, we resumed our journey along an elevated valley, where the snow was soft and dan- gerously deep, presenting nothing for a fire, or for the support of the horses, nor a shrub of any description to be seen. I have scarcely ever seen a place where the horses could not by scraping with their feet reach the earth in search of food; here, however, the thing was impossible, from the depth of the snow; and indeed the poor animals seemed to know it, as they would not waste their strength in the attempt. The Yakuti put on long faces at the obstructions we met with, never having witnessed such deep and difficult roads, for, in ordinary times, good pasturage is to be had in this part of the valley. The horses having to contend with such diffi- culties, our journey was continued on foot. My OMEKON, 381 snow-shoes I gave up to one of the guides, in consideration of his being very heavy, while, for myself, with a quick motion, my weight was not sufficient to permit my sinking in the snow : in case I had, the guide with snow-shoes was near to render me assistance. We were now frequently compelled to wander about on the borders of precipices, directing our route by the shade or appearance of the smow ; habit having accustomed me, as well as the people of the country, to a pretty accurate calculation whether or not the Snow would bear me. I have even seen the horses refuse to proceed, their sagacity in that case being equal to man's : nor will the leading dog of a narte, if he is good, run the vehicle into a track where there is deep snow or water. The third terrible day brought us to a solitary tree, from which many horsehair offerings were suspended. Having overcome this abominable route, no less than sixty miles, in the evening we reached a fertile spot, and halted on the banks of a lake from which, it is said, the rivers Okota and Koudousou, running in counter-directions, have their source; a circumstance which recalled to my recollection those words in an able work by Mr. Barrow upon rivers, wherein it is said, that “although it is mot a physical impossibility that two rivers should flow in opposite, or indeed 382 OMEKON. in any direction, out of the same lake, yet the contrary approaches so near to an axiom in geo- graphy, that no instance is perhaps known of such an occurrence;” nor is it unworthy of re- mark, that, while I was writing this, I read in the Literary Gazette of a similar circum- stance having been reported by the Esquimaux; indeed, from charts which I have since seen, of that part of the world, I have no doubt of the fact. Query, do not several rivers emanate from the Baikhal and Caspian Seas, or Lakes? We had now only one day's meat left, but were fortunate in shooting a couple of partridges, which the guides brought me. We had still some rye flour, and butter, and with that hoped to cross the river, and reach our destination, without any sub- sequent difficulty. At four in the morning we had 13° of frost by Reaumur, and at noon 73° of heat of Fahrenheit. After forty miles of severe travelling we at length reached the river, which was to close this terrible journey, and which was full of shoals and rapids, and may be declared useless. The islands in it abound with birches, larches, and alders, as also with the poplar, and a few pines. There is also an abundance of wild berries of a fine flavour; and the pastures are ex- ceedingly rich. The scenery was, in many places, highly beautiful; and the river afforded a novel THE OR OTA. 383 spectacle, being confined by the most beautiful natural quays of crystal ice, while the river actu- ally roared from the velocity of its current. As we continued our melancholy route we fell in with two white bears bound to the north, but fear, probably on either side, kept us apart. Still along the Okota, we reached twenty-five miles, the horses enjoying very fine pastures, but our provisions entirely at an end. The rains had again overtaken us, and were rapidly swelling the rivers. Of the last of the rein-deer, the flesh was so far gone that I could not eat it : the Yakuti, however, are so fond of putrid meat, termed in England game, for indeed it was nothing else, that they finished it, regretting only that it was so little in quantity. The second day without food, and in a torrent of rain, we made near fifty miles, the horses swim- ming and wading through thirty or forty little rapid streams. These are formed by the rains and the melting of the snow from the eastern range of elevated mountains: they subside and dry up about the month of September. We lost one horse, which was carried by the stream into the Okota. At length by great labour we reached the ford- ing place at the Okota. It was, however, impos- sible to attempt it, the guides observing, that the 384 THE OR OTA. horses might pass the river, but not loaded. We therefore halted, and next morning found a place where there was a canoe on the opposite bank. Thereupon unloading the horses, we turned them into the river, and they all reached the opposite bank in safety. The question then was how to . get the canoe over ; I was the only person who could swim, but the water was still so cold that I felt no preference to that mode. Necessity at last compelled me, and having procured a short stout piece of drift wood, which was very buoyant, I crossed at a narrow part of the stream, with a leather thong fast to my waist. The rapidity of the stream carried me down above a hundred yards, but the Yakuti, keeping, by a sort of run, in a parallel line, were ready to haul me back, iſ necessary. I however reached in safety; and, instantly throwing off my clothes, took violent exercise. The breadth of the swimming part might only have been fifteen or twenty yards, and across the strength of the stream possibly not more than four or five yards; yet I barely accomplished it. The feat was thankfully ac- knowledged by the astonished Yakuti, when I returned with an excellent canoe. Lord Byron swam the Hellespont, and John Cochrame the Okota. Of the two ſeats, mine was surely the most diſficult ; his lordship was neither 'THE O KOTA. 385 fatigued, hungry, nor cold, nor compelled to his undertaking; while I had each and all of those evils to contend with. By perseverance we reached twenty miles far- ther, halting at one of the fishermen's summer villages. I broke open all the cellars in search of fish, but was not so fortunate as to find any. The evening proving fine, we aired and dried our clothes in lieu of supper, and next day, over a rugged, but well wooded country, walked and rode twenty miles, encamping upon the left bank of the Modon; one solitary partridge be- ing the day's food for four people. The Okota here becomes formidable from the waters of the Nater and Modon, which enter it from opposite points. The former river inconvenienced us much, we being obliged to ford it three times in the short space of seven miles, and with no inconsiderable risk. After the passage of the Nater, ascending an elevated and rugged moun- tain, whence we enjoyed a fine view of the sur- rounding country, we descended and entered upon a swampy overflooded country, covered with fallen trees, which impeded our progress terribly. A desolated forest was our companion for many miles; here and there we found a few berries, especially of the moroshka (rubris chamaemorus), a yellow berry about the size of a strawberry; VOL. I. 2 C 386 "THE O KOTA. there were also some bilberries. We halted on an island where the remains of a post-house are to be seen. It rained during the might, and we had some heavy thunder, a sound become un- usual to me. The next day, about one mile farther, we reached the junction of the Arka and Okota, but they had swollen so much from the rains, that we were again detained. I therefore went in search of game with our Yakut's gum, but unhappily the powder, which had been kept in a rag, was so wet as to be entirely useless ; we had, therefore, no- thing but patience left, independent of four fat horses, which my finances would not allow me to sacrifice. The poor Yakuti would willingly have allowed it, but I could not think of permitting them, upon my account, to suffer so great a loss, and therefore determined to let them act as for their own welfare, knowing, as I did, that none of their nation would deem it necessary to kill a good horse till his owner had been nine days without animal food. The number of islands in the river increased to an astonishing degree the velocity of the stream in the channel, which brings down with it im- mense masses of ice, and trees ; and even had I been possessed of a canoe, or had the river been more tranquil, it appeared impossible for the THE O KOTA. 387 horses to ascend the quays on the opposite bank, which run into the river in a shelving manner eight or ten feet out of the water. Now and then a mass of ice, or a tree, would strike the quay, and tearing away the shelving part, would leave a perpendicular spot of some yards. I walked along the banks of the river in search of a place to cross, but in vain ; we therefore began to fell timber, to be employed in the formation of a raft, if necessary. More rain came in the evening, and we passed an unpleasant night, anxiously watching the rise or fall of the river. We had eaten nothing for two days, and only a few berries on the two preceding them. At moon of the following day I had completed the raft, and as I felt extremely hungry, deter- mined to attempt the passage of the river with one Yakut and the Cossack. The other Yakut I left with the horses, as he could not possibly perish for want of food, and appeared only anxious for the necessity which should compel him to knock one of the animals upon the head, that is, that the nine days should expire. To starve on one side of the river, be drowned in it, or die upon the other side, appeared alike to me; and I accordingly embarked our little baggage upon the raft, composed of ten logs of trees about fifteen feet long, crossed by five others, and again 2 C. 2 388 THE OR OTA, crossed by two more, to form a seat for the per- son taking charge of the baggage, which was lashed to the raft. The spars were lashed to- gether by leather thongs, and two or three lea- ther bags were cut up to increase their length. Each spar was also connected to the one on each side of it by three grummets formed out of the green branches of the trees on the banks of the river; and the raft appeared to me strong enough to resist a severe concussion. We also provided ourselves with drift spars, formed into oars, to serve to steer, and assist in gaining the shore should an accident happen. My papers and journals were fastened round my body, and I took my station in the bow, in order that I might avoid danger, and keep in the centre of the river. It was with difficulty we moved our vessel into the main channel, from the number of ed- dies; but having once reached it, we descended in a most astonishing manner, sometimes ac- tually making the head giddy as we passed the branches of trees, rocks, or islands. No accident happening, and the river widening, I began to congratulate my companions on the probability of breakfasting the next day in Okotsk; but as yet I had not got upon the proper side of the stream, the islands and shoals perpetually turning us off. The THE OKOTA, 389 Cossack and Yakut continued in a state of alarm, not entirely without cause, for upon rounding a point of land, we observed a large tree jutting into the river, with a tremendous and rapid surf running over it, the branches of the tree preventing the raft from passing over the body of it, which was so deep in the water as to preclude a hope of escaping with life, it was at least impossible to avoid being wrecked. The Cossack and Yakut crossed themselves, while I was quietly awaiting the result in the bow. We struck, and such was the force of the rebound, that I was in hopes we should have been thrown outside the shaft in the subsequent approach. I was, however, disap- pointed, for the forepart of the raft was actually sucked under the tree, and the afterpart rose so high out of the water, that it completely turned over, bringing the baggage under water ; the whole, then, with the Yakut and Cossack, pro- ceeded down the stream, and fortunately brought up upon an island about one hundred yards below. In the mean while my situation was dangerous; being in the bow, I could not hold on the raft as my companions had been able to do, for fear of being jammed in between the raft and the tree. I therefore quitted my hold, and, with infinite difficulty, clung to the outer branches on the rapid side of the tree : my body was sucked under, 390 THE () KOTA. and no part of me was out of the water but my head and arms. I could not long remain in such a state; and making, therefore, one vigorous effort, on the success of which it was clear my life depended, I gained the top of the tree. I was throwing off my upper park, when the branch gave way, and I dropped down, half drowning, to the island. It was a fortunate circumstance that the raft upset, as otherwise it could not have brought up at the island; which it did in con- sequence of the baggage lashed to the raft being so deep in the water. Our situation, notwithstanding, upon the island was by no means pleasant. On either side of us was a rapid channel, and I was as far as ever from accomplishing the object I had in view; which was that of getting upon the right bank of the river : for then I might expect to reach some habitation, there being none upon the left bank nearer than six hundred miles, half way to Idgiga. My first care was to change my wet clothes, and warm myself by exercise; the next was to unlash and land the baggage, and to save as much of the raft as possible, our de- liverance depending upon it. By hard work we accomplished it ere the sun had set ; after which it soon began to be very cold. The appearance THE O KOTA. 39 | of the night was unfavourable, as it foreboded rain; it would therefore have been highly indis- creet to remain longer than necessary; as the river might, in one night, so increase as to cover the island. To launch a raft into the channel I could not attempt, as by that time it would be dark, and we should certainly meet with the same accident, and probably worse results. I therefore walked to- wards the end of the island, till I came opposite to a large tree which had fallen from the continent nearly half way across the narrowest part of the channel, which might be about fifty or sixty feet. To swim through the central part of it was impos- sible; but it appeared to me probable, with the help of nautical ingenuity, to save not only our- selves, but also the baggage; and this I accom- plished in a true sailor-like fashion. The baggage and spars were first removed from the place of wreck to that we purposed departing from. These spars were, as I have said, about fifteen feet long; a length which would not more than one-third reach to the tree, allowing a pro- portion to be within the beach. I therefore placed the heaviest baggage in the water, consisting of four bags lashed together, to which I lashed the immer ends of two of the stoutest spars, keeping a 392 T H E O KOTA. lime fast to the outer ends, to prevent the strength of the stream from carrying them down. I should say, that the place where I sunk the baggage was past the parallel of the tree to which I desired to get, five or six feet, in order that the last of the studding sail booms which I should rig out, might come on the rapid side of the tree, and thus form a bridge. I them carried out two more spars, and lashed their centres to the outer ends of the two first spars, while the inner ends were lashed to the centre of the two inner spars: the second two spars had also a guy fastened to their outer ends, as a support. I had now reached within eight or nine feet of the tree, a space including the most rapid part of the stream. I accordingly sent one more spar, dropping it between the others in such a manner that it should fall tides way of, and two or three feet beyond, the nearest part of the tree. Of course it required no guy, and but one inner lashing, as it could not get adrift or fall to leeward, unless the tree gave way. My reason for sending one spar at last was to prevent, as much as possi- ble, an extra surf; for as it was, I had great diffi- culty in reaching the tree. The Cossack followed in safety: but of course I could not expect the Yakut to attempt it ; the bare idea was death to him. I therefore returned ; and making another long line out of leather strips, from two bags, I THE O KOTA. 393 flung it over to the Cossack, keeping one end fast to the island. My bridge thus appeared: ~ \Las hung -\Lasht reg To enable me to ferry over my Yakut, the bag- gage, and lastly myself, I converted the bridge into a raft, which had a line fast to it from each side of the river, the Cossack hauling it to his side, and I back again. When it came to my turn, I had not the advantage of a check line, for there was no place to make it fast to. The consequence was, in rounding the tree the raft upset, and I got a severe ducking. I held on, however, and was pulled ashore in such a state, from the effects of the cold, that my clothes became like a firm casing of ice. Notwithstanding I could not but be thankful for two such escapes; the last of which, I suppose, occurred at ten o'clock at night. We immediately had recourse to flint and steel, to produce fire, which was soon found to be im- 394 NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE OKOTA. possible, as the tinder was all wet. A forest of fine trees, most of them in a fit state to burn, in- spirited us, and my Yakut soon produced fire by friction. From the danger of perishing by cold, I was now hurried into that of being consumed by fire. The height of the grass and the dryness of the wood all around were such, that the whole forest was enveloped in flame, and we were obliged to work hard to prevent its being fatal to us. This immense fire raging round us had the effect of inducing the other guide to swim the horses across the river to our relief, either sup- posing we were there, or that other assistance to himself was at hand : a service which must have been performed with no small difficulty or peril. For the sake of the Yakuti it was a happy accom- plishment; as from the general want of food, and the distance to their home, it was impossible for them to have returned without a fresh supply. Now, upon the right bank of the river Okota, we were certain of assistance in twenty-four hours. The distance we had arrived by the winding of the river was fifteen or sixteen miles ; but in a direct line to the junction of the Arka and Okota not more than three miles; so that the fire was readily distinguished by the Yakut I had left with NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE OKOTA. 395 the horses. I therefore felt delighted with his good conduct in having so well divined our situa- tion ; and the night was passed in drying our clothes, and preparing to resume the journey the following day. The appearance of the raft, upon the second trip, was thus: Cazvénezvē X Cossac & (J. Bay? Gº-Hº T--— The third day without any food had now pass- ed; and the fifth, with only a few berries to keep our spirits up, had arrived, when, on the dawn of the sixth (18th June), we again took to the horses, forded the Roumar; and passing over a mountain- ous and sterile country, for near forty miles, ar- rived at the habitation of a Yakut Prince called Gregory Grosmoff, upon an island in the Okota. My host was neither civil nor hospitable; but by a sort of force I got some horse-meat from him, and which I considered, at that time, a great de- 396 OKOTSK. licacy, added to some bread which I procured from the sailors and carpenters employed in felling tim- ber for the dock-yard of Okotsk. Fresh horses were given to me at this station, and I proceeded on to Okotsk. The route lay through some fine park-like scenery, and then over a thick sandy forest of tall pine trees; the weather was most unfavourable, as it rained hard. At length I reached the eastern sea-coast, that is, the North Pacific Ocean, and was compelled to halt at a miserable hut, affording scarcely a shelter from the elements. The following morn- ing, to assist the Yakuti, who begged of me to leave their horses in the pasture, I paddled along the stream to the old town of Okotsk; and call- ing on the police-master, was by him, in the go- vernment boat, carried over, with all the formality and respect due to my rank, to the abode of the chief of Okotsk, Vladimir Ushinsky, than whom I have never found a better man, or one who pos- sesses more real goodness of heart, under the most severe and forbidding countenance. I was provided with quarters at the abode of the police-master, whose brother had that day been drowned in floating a raft down the Okota, not far from where I was wrecked. I waited upon the chief of Okotsk, as soon as I could put on a clean dress afforded me through the kindness OKOTSK. 397 of a Mr. Gardner, a Bostonian, settled in Okotsk as an agent or retail trader. The Chief felt much surprised at my haggard and miserable appear- ance. My face was completely frosted, and bore the effects of exposure to the wind in no ordinary degree. My long red beard, longer red locks, and almost frightful aspect, now suggested to me the propriety of shaving myself, as well as of getting my hair cut, neither of which I had permitted for fifteen months. To this measure, however, I did not consent till I had determined, in consequence of the information I received, and the general cir- cumstances attending my situation, to return to Europe. I did, however, shave in the forenoon, and had my hair also cut; and receiving as a present a surtout and pair of blue trowsers, I be- came once more a genteel dressed man. Through the hospitality and kindness of Captain Ushinsky, I was enabled to pass a most pleasant day in the agreeable company of the officers both of the naval and civil service of Okotsk. The chief had long been expecting me, and continued so to expect until he heard of my departure from Yakutsk for the Kolyma ; when, to use his own expression, “ he gave me up for lost.” I do, however, say, that whatever are his, and may be others' opinions, I feel certain that one half the difficulties, and nearly all the dangers and exposures to which 398 OKOTSR. travellers, in any climate, are most commonly sub- jected, and of which they so much complain, are the result of either their own physical incompe- tency, or want of prudential foresight. I certainly do not understand making much ado about no- thing, nor writing expensive quartos upon a sub- ject which might be compressed into a duode- cimo, so far as regards the value of the informa- tion; but this I do understand, that were a simi- lar, and apparently a difficult, journey left open for me to perform, which could in the least tend to the benefit of mankind, and, in the event of success, to my own advantage, I would no more think of refusing to undertake such a journey, than I would that of exploring Africa to-morrow ; for which purpose, and with slender means, I am ready in six hours. I did utter these sentiments at Okotsk; I have now again uttered them in England: conscious that my plan is eco- nomical, prudential, and feasible. CHAPTER IX. Reasons for determining to return to Europe—Description of Okotsk—Observations on the Navigation of the Amour— Kurile Islands—St. Peter and St. Paul's —Captains Wa- silieff's and Kotzebue's Expeditions. THE circumstances which induced me to deter- mine upon a return to Europe, previously visiting Kamtchatka, I will beg to lay before my readers, in the words of part of a letter I addressed to the same purport, to the Governor-general of Siberia. It is as follows: “Okotsk, July 8, 1821. “MOST EXCELLENT SIR, “From the river Kolyma I had last the honour of addressing your Excellency; since when I have come over a large tract of desolate country, nearly two thousand miles, with great labour and some peril. The difficulties I have had to contend with surpass every thing of the kind I have before seen, and required every exertion of mine to conquer; which I did not do under seventy-five days of hard labour. My route lay along the Kolyma, Zyzanka, Indigirka, Omekom, and Okota ; all of which are, 400 REASONS FOR DETERMINING at this season of the year, large, rapid, dangerous, and almost impassable rivers. Besides these, there "are numerous other streams, as well as lofty moun- tains of frozen snow, large overflowed marshes, crowded and decayed forests, and half-frozen lakes, which present themselves in every part of this journey: suffering at the same time cold, rain, hunger, and fatigue, with forty-five nights' expo- sure to the snow ; at times without fire in a frost of thirty degrees; and latterly, five days being passed without food; never having seen an indi- vidual during four hundred miles, and but one habitation in the extent of one thousand; being frequently bewildered and lost in the snow moun- tains;–all these circumstances tend to weary and dispirit a traveller upon a like journey, and render him incapable of addressing your Excellency in a proper style. But I am unwilling to allow a post to escape, without communicating my past and future movements. “I was induced to undertake the late journey in order that I might reach Okotsk in time to pro- ceed to America or Kamtchatka, as circumstances should render most desirable or necessary : other- wise the proper route from the Kolyma to Okotsk is via Yakutsk, the route of the Omekon having been discontinued thirty years, in consequence of the difficulties and perils which ever attend it. TO RETURN TO E U R () PE. 401 “I waited upon the chief of Okotsk, who re- ceived me with distinguished hospitality and friendship, and who informed me that there was no vessel of any description lying in the port bound to America; and, although two vessels were expected to arrive in the course of the sum- mer, it was by no means certain or probable that either of them would return to the opposite con- tinent during the same season. Such being the case, the Chief of Okotsk, agreeable to a request I made, has consented to my embarking in the Imperial transport, bound to Kamtchatka: there I purpose passing the remainder of the summer in travelling about the peninsula, and propose to return to this place by way of Idgiga, during the early part of the winter, and thence to Eu- rope, where I hope to arrive in the fall of the ensuing year, passing through such places in Si- beria as I could not visit upon my outward journey. - - “The circumstances which have arisen since my last letter to your Excellency, are such as to render useless my proceeding to America, even if a conveyance offered; but, as no oppor- tunity does exist, I must remain a long time in Okotsk if I persist in my plan. Thus I hope that your Excellency and the Imperial Govern- ment will not feel displeased with me, in con- WOL. I. 2 D 402 & EASONS FOR 1) ETERM IN ING sideration of the reasons I have given for retrac- ing my steps, in preference to proceeding beyond the peninsula of Kamtchatka. \ “Your Excellency is well aware that the ob- ject I had in view, when I undertook this long and painful journey, was, first to ascertain the situation of Shelatskoi Noss, then to cross from Asia to America, at Behring's Straits, and trace the latter continent as far as possible to the north-east. “The first problem is entirely solved by the fortunate issue of Baron Wrangel's expedition. The north-east boundary of Asia being thus established beyond all doubt, I could no longer have any reason for remaining in the vicinity of the Kolyma, which place I accordingly quit- ted the moment the fair held with the Tchuk- tehi, upon the Aniuy, was finished. “My original desire or intention of proceed- ing to America is now become as delicate as was my situation on the Kolyma, as a naval ex- pedition is there also, having the same object in view that I have. I cannot be allowed to act with them for the reasons before assigned : I will not act against them ; and, therefore, I cannot act at all. It would be madness and presumption in me, to attempt a task of the kind while an expedition is there. I cannot get TO RETURN 'I' () I.U R OPE. 403 to Behring's Straits but with their assistance, or that of the Tchuktohi, and thus I cannot get there at all, and can only wish for a success- ful termination of Captain Vassilieff’s exertions. Should that officer withdraw entirely, I will here- after undertake the same journey, and may pos- sibly do that by good fortune which even more zeal and talents cannot execute “Had I known, when in Europe, of the expe- ditions on the Kolyma and in Behring's Straits, I do not think I should have taken this route to employ and improve myself. I shall, however, remember my journey with gratitude, pleasure, and pride. I confess to your Excellency that I do not see the necessity for continuing my jour- mey merely for the sake of consistency. I am not afraid of the task, and I am as happy in a wild desert as in a proud capital; but I conceive I can better employ myself, more improve my- self, and possibly do better altogether. I have much to see and learn during the ensuing fifteen months which I shall pass in Siberia, and, there- fore, I hope I am about to adopt that line of conduct which, under all the circumstances of the case, appears most proper, however much I regret the necessity of retracing my steps. I have the honour to be,” &c. Such were the ideas suggested to me, and such 2 D 2 404 () [OTSK, was the conduct I felt it necessary to adopt, in consequence of the conversation I had with the chief of Okotsk, and the head of the American Company, who told me that he had no idea of any vessels offering this year for the opposite con- tinent. No other vessel could offer, as the ports of Okotsk and Kamtchatka had become shut to all strangers since I had left St. Petersburg, thus, in fact, compelling me to adopt the most proper line of conduct, as will hereafter appear, upon my arrival at Kamtchatka. I will, therefore, abstain from touching any more upon that point until I reach that peninsula, and content myself with viewing the wonders of Okotsk. Okotsk is situated in the north-east part of a bay formed by the rivers Okota and Kouktui, and is approaching to more respect and consideration than it ever did before, owing, I believe, princi- pally to the active and honest exertions of the present chief. The town was formerly situated on a low sandy beach close to the sea-side. Its exposure and inconvenience were never pointed out till by the late chief, now commanding at Ya- kutsk, who was in consequence ordered to trans- fer the town from the old to the new site, which is on the left bank of the Okota, as the old one was on the right. The order for the removal has been issued several years, yet little was done till OKOTSK. 405 lately: even at present, the new site contains but the government buildings, and those belonging to a few of the Cossacks and sailors. The more com- siderable part, which are erecting by the Ame- rican Company will, it is said, be transferred hi- ther in the ensuing winter. The plan upon which the town is building is good, and when finished, will be, after Barnaoule, the neatest place in Sibe- ria, although upon a small scale, for there are not more than fifteen or sixteen hundred people in it. The country round Okotsk is highly productive in fine timber, in consequence of which a dock- yard has been made, and some fine vessels have been built, to enable the government to transport provisions to Idgiga and Kamtchatka. - The chief of Okotsk is generally a captain of the navy of the second rank, and subject only to the orders of the Governor-general of Siberia, although the Governor of Irkutsk has some power in civil cases. At present, the establishment con- sists of three captains and four lieutenants, with corresponding officers of all classes, and nearly six hundred seamen and artificers; the allowance for maintaining and paying whom is less than two thousand pounds per annum, independent of their bread, which is about eight thousand bushels. The people are employed in building vessels and storehouses, in rigging and sailing the former, 406 O KOTSIX. and filling the latter with flour and stores. The receiving and sending away of flour is a serious and laborious duty, and open to much abuse and pilfering. Besides these works, there is a salt concern under the charge of an officer who com- mands the convicts, at present ninety in number, the maintenance of whom, including provisions, clothing, and pocket-money, is about a thousand pounds per annum. These extraordinary ex- penses are occasioned by the allowance of double rations, in consideration of their hard work. The allowance to a convict is as follows:–Eighty pounds of rye flour for each man per month, one hundred and twenty pounds of the same flour for each man who has a wife, and forty pounds in ad- dition for each child, male or female. Each man is also allowed ten pounds of oatmeal, or rice, and twenty pounds of butter per month. They are also allowed two complete suits of clothing, and about twenty shillings per annum in money. Such an allowance of provisions is commendable and liberal; indeed it is so great, that the poor wretches are enabled to sell one-half of the bread for the purchase of tea, sugar, and meat; and of the latter, there is not so much necessity, when the superabundant quantity of fish is taken into consideration, which is so great that I believe OKOTSK. 407 from twelve to fifteen hundred dogs are fed with it during the greater part of the year. The quantity of salt made by the convicts is about two thousand five hundred poods, or one thousand six hundred bushels, which is sold alike to rich and poor, at the rate of three shillings a bushel, equal to two hundred and fifty pounds for sixteen hundred bushels; so that the salt, although a necessary, is a losing establishment of seventy-five per cent. The liberality and con- sideration of the Emperor upon this head cannot, therefore, but be duly appreciated. There are also at Okotsk fifty Cossacks, whose allowance of flour is thirty poods or one thousand two hundred pounds weight per annum, and oat- meal and butter in proportion. The children have half that allowance, and widows and orphans are considered as entitled to the same, thus bring- ing the establishment of Okotsk to about two hundred and fifty thousand roubles, or ten thou- sand pounds per annum. To meet this, the yasack, or tribute, paid by Yakuti and Tongousi is two thousand eight hundred and twenty-eight roubles, or less than one hundred and twenty pounds, and the duties upon imported goods amounted, in three years, to less than seven hundred pounds. These are the only sources 408 OKOTSK. of revenue to Okotsk, if I except that arising from the American Company, who are supposed to pay a tenth of their imports to the crown, at St. Petersburg, as also a tenth of the furs im- ported from Kamtchatka: neither of which pay- ments take place, I believe, in so correct a man- ner as they should. Of the expenses of building and fitting out a transport brig of one hundred and sixty to one hundred and eighty tons, I have the account, which states it at less than two thousand pounds; the building was one half the amount of the stores, and their transport from Irkutsk the other half. Upon the whole, however, the vessels are eminently strong, and worth the money. The art of ship-building has considerably improved, if I may judge from the different samples lying in Okotsk; three brigs have been built within the last three years, which ought to last at least twenty. Such are the official returns of Okotsk. Of the state of society little can be said, no merchants residing in it, and the chief being the only mar- ried man belonging to the navy, and but three or four, who have wives, that belong to the civil ser- vice; in short, there is very little society, and less education, although a school has been established by the present chief, which may hereafter do well, if the existing discipline be kept up. There are okotsk. 409 seventy-six boys in it, who cost nothing either to the empire or their families, being supported on the, so called, economy money, i. e. the money saved from the sums allowed by government for the maintenance of the equipage, which savings the present Governor, much to his honour and credit, employs for the education and other benefit of the children. Much credit is also due to the exertions of Cap- tain Ushinsky, in having redressed many of the grievances under which the aborigines laboured, as well as the abuses in the public departments. Formerly, when an officer wanted money, he had only to go to the dock-yard, and take such things from it as he could sell to raise it; and so recently has this abuse been exercised, that an officer, high in rank, did, even in the last year, take articles to a considerable amount from one of the storehouses ; not in a shy or shamefaced manner, but openly, as an act justified by habit and long usage, and not at all questionable. I can see no reason why such conduct should be practised here, as all officers receive double pay and extra provi- sions, besides being always considered as regular traders; indeed it has, since my return from Si- beria, been sanctioned by authority, that officers in certain departments or situations may trade. The consequences will be most fatal to the poor 4 || 0 () IQ OTSK. aborigines, and most destructive to the interest of the fair trader, who is taxed to an amount of at least ten per cent. per annum upon the capital he professes to trade with. The abuses under which this persecuted race of aborigines have existed, I shall forbear to men- tion. I will, however, give two samples of the manner in which an avaricious chief may make his fortune. A Yakut applied to the orderly Cossack of the present chief, who spoke the language of the Ya- kuti, stating that he wished to speak to the chief in private. The poor fellow was admitted, when he beckoned the interpreter to withdraw. This, however, was impossible, as the man, who kept his hand in his breast, could not speak a word of Russian. The chief demanded what he wanted ; still he declined answering in the presence of the Cossack. At last, after many entreaties, he pulled out a paper from his bosom, and gave it to the chief, at the same time kissing his knee; and ob- serving that he was a poor man and had never been to Okotsk before. The paper was opened and found to contain a hundred roubles, nearly five pounds. The chief demanded the purpose of the money; and by reasoning with and threat- ening the poor fellow, he at last got out the () KOTSK. 4 | 1 truth, which was, -that an old custom prevailed among the Yakuti, in order to enable the chief of Okotsk to live well and support his station, that every Yakut should pay upon his first entry into Okotsk, a sort of poll-tax to the chief; and that he, the Yakut, in common with the rest, had now only to continue the custom, and to express his regret that he was so poor a man as not to be able to do more. I need not say the money was returned, the man made to understand that such practices were abolished, and a message sent to the princes of the Yakuti, to say that should such conduct be again attempted with the present chief, a severe punishment would be inflicted upon the party offending. When the number of Yakuti who annually go to Okotsk, are considered as not falling short of three or four thousand, it may be very readily guessed what the average receipts of a chief were, and might still be, upon the score of privilege and extortion. The charm of bribery and corruption is, however, now so decidedly broken at Okotsk, that I feel certain mo place in Siberia will thrive more, although its chief will always be unpopular. I will mention one instance more of the preva- lence of corruption in this part of the world, and to the truth of which I can myself testify. A de- 412 () KOTSR. cent dressed woman called upon the present chief of Okotsk, with a petition, that her husband should have his fetters taken off, and be allowed a total respite from the public services, in conse- quence of his age and infirmities. Upon inquiry, her husband proved to be a convict, and still more, one of the very worst. The woman was desired to call again, and was then told that the chief was sorry that the conduct of her husband was such, as prevented the chief's considering it necessary that he should be excused from the pub- lic works ; and that his health, his age, and cir- cumstances were such, that no extra consideration of his case was necessary, and therefore he must continue to work in his fetters. The woman then put a letter into the hand of the chief, which, on opening, was found to contain bank notes to the amount of three hundred roubles, a sum equal to fifteen pounds. This was her last resort : the money was returned, the former opinion was con- firmed, and the chief, for having done his duty and for having honourably refused the bribe, was denounced as the most arbitrary and tyrannical, insomuch that a parallel was drawn between his conduct and that of his predecessors, by whom it seems such things were practised. These are in no way extraordinary cases, nor () KOTSK. 413 are they by any means the most grievous. Those arising from the oppressive acts of the commis- saries, or tax-gatherers, are the worst. I feel confident that no real redress can be granted until the yasack is done away with entirely ; and this step I hope and believe will, ere long, be taken. The sacrifice would be small; it might even be done with great advantage to the em- pire, and to the increase of the population, as well as of the revenue: but I have done, and am really tired of being under the necessity of telling such true tales. During the latter part of my stay at Okotsk, two vessels arrived there from America, one of which was very valuable, worth about seventy thousand pounds, the other about thirty thousand. They were brigs, and loaded with sea-otters, beavers, sea-cats, martins, river-otters, and vari- ous other less valuable skins. The vessels ap- peared well manned, and tolerably managed, which is more than I can believe is the case with the government transports; but as I am going in one, and shall have a fair opportunity of judging, I will, for the present, abstain from further re- mark. I remained in Okotsk a considerable time, about three months, and felt highly gratified with the attentions shewn to me by the chief, his 414 OKOTSK. amiable lady, and the officers. Every thing that could tend to my comfort was done for me. I did not, however, receive from the American Company's representatives those attentions to which my situation might seem to entitle me, in consequence, I believe, of what had taken place at St. Petersburg. One circumstance in parti- cular occurred to me, which was calculated to lower them and the concern in my estimation. One of their brigs was to be examined,—visited for the purpose of ascertaining if the provisions were good, if the people were satisfied, and if the furniture of the vessel, in spare sails, &c., was, as is directed by law. The chief and offi- cers were invited. This was at a feast given by the chief, at which I was present, and where he was requested to bring me with him: I even heard the invitation, but I naturally considered that, if they really wished me to partake of the déjeuné to be given on board, they could as well have invited me upon the spot, as desire a second person to bring me. The day the survey was to take place, all the individuals expected re- paired to the scene of action, except myself; a boat was despatched after me, but I declined the invitation in toto, conscious as I was that some- thing existed which, probably, in obedience to O KOTSK. 4 15 directions, I ought not to see, and knowing as they must that I would expose, if I discovered, it. I neither have nor had any hostility towards the American Company; on the contrary, I say, that I think their establishment in Okotsk is upon the most liberal scale, probably too liberal, and that there are fewer faults in the concern in Okotsk, than in any other of theirs that I have seen. The prices of provisions and labour will con- clude these remarks upon Okotsk. Bread is twelve roubles a pood, and meat from four to five rou- bles the same quantity; that is, bread is sold by government at nine shillings for thirty-six pounds, while meat is four shillings and sixpence for the same quantity. Fish, from its abundance, is not vended, Tobacco, cottons, and earthenware, cutlery, and such articles as a poor people can want, are not exorbitant; while a common work- ing man can earn four, five, and six shillings a day, which are, however, sure to be spent at the kabak, or grog-shop. Wine of an infamous qua- lity, the worst of spirits, and a sort of provincial maleefka, and fructovka (a spirit of the flavour of cherry-brandy) are most exorbitantly dear. Those who have industry, strength, or talent, cannot fail of making their situations comfortable in Okotsk, if they be so disposed. The place is generally 4 16 O KOTSK. considered healthy, yet for invalids there is a good hospital, with plenty of attendants. The gar- dens produce some vegetables, but commonly of an inferior growth ; mushrooms are most abund- ant, and very fine. In other respects the govern- ment of Okotsk can only be termed an immense dreary waste, extending from the river Uda to Idgiga and Anadyr, and the whole population is less than four thousand souls. In spite of the attentions and hospitality heaped upon me by the inhabitants of Okotsk, I could not regret my departure. It has such a sameness—so little to be seen—so little to interest ; and what was worse than all, so much scandal circulating there, that every thing dome in Irkutsk and St. Pe- tersburg was sure to be known in a very short time. It was on the twenty-fourth of August that I embarked on board the Imperial transport brig, Michael, to proceed to Kamtchatka. She was commanded by a lieutenant of the navy, and had on board thirty-two people besides passengers; I mention the number, because it is considered in this part of the world that such a number falls far short of what is necessary to work a vessel in a case of emergency. Our destination was St. Peter and St. Paul's OKOTSK. 4 17 in Kamtchatka: we cast off our lashings about noon, and were soon in the centre of the tre- mendous tidesway, which makes in and out of Okotsk every six hours. In attempting to cross the bar, she struck, and as the vessel was rather late, the ebb-tide having made, of course she con- tinued to strike, and in fact beat so hard, that it was necessary to get down the lower yards and topmasts, and even to prepare to discharge the cargo. Every exertion, but in vain, was made in the two following tides to get her off from the bank which received Captain Billing's vessel, the Good Intent—she was left so truly dry at low water, that I walked on shore to communicate with the chief. On the afternoon of the twenty-sixth, by main force we hove the brig into deep water upon the rising of the tide; and as no damage had been apparently done to the vessel, of course resumed the voyage. We may be considered as fortunate; the Surf is at times so terrific as to prevent the possibility not only of a boat, but of any vessel outriding it many minutes. The shal- lowness of the water a long way off from the entrance of the harbour, the rapidity of the tides, and the cross-setting of them at the harbour's mouth, preclude the possibility of Okotsk becom- VOL. I. 2 E 4.18 OKOTSK. ing an easily accessible port, except for a small merchant vessel. Necessity alone, resulting from the loss of the Amour, can induce the Russian Government to keep it, at such an expense and under such circumstances. If the Amour had not been sacrificed through the bad generalship of the Count, whose name I do not recollect, or the superior duplicity of the Chinese, all the produc- tions of the Pacific might have entered, and ascended that river nearly to the fortress of Kiakhta; but in the present state of the limit- ation of the Chinese and Russian Empires, the produce of the Pacific is necessarily sent to Okotsk, as there is no other eligible place. The produce arriving at Okotsk has to choose betwixt the dangers of a bad roadsted, and of a very difficult port. From Okotsk to Irkutsk and Kiakhta, are near three thousand miles of the most difficult and dangerous land-carriage in the world: a journey which camnot be accomplished during the season in which the vessels generally arrive at Okotsk; consequently one year's inte- rest of the money is sunk, besides the exposure of the goods to the ignorance and negligence of warehouse-keepers, and the dampness of the at- mosphere. The only period in which the port of Okotsk OKOTSK. 419 can be approached or departed from, is between the months of July and October, or only four months. The general period for vessels arriving is the latter part of July or beginning of August ; too late in the season to admit of their cargoes being forwarded to Yakutsk in time to take the winter-road and reach the fair of Kiakhta during the same season, as the fair commences in Fe- bruary. Were the American Company to des- patch their vessels from the Continent of Ame- rica in the month of May, they would always arrive at Okotsk before the 1st July; their cargoes might be transported to Yakutsk by the end of August, at a cheap rate, by means of the return horses, and then to Irkutsk by water, previous to the winter setting in, and so be ready for dis- posal at Kiakhta in January. The furs would arrive in a better state, and of course fetch a better price. What incalculable advantages would result to the American Company and to merchants in general, to say nothing of its con- venience to the government, from the employ of steam-engines upon the rivers Lena, Angara, Selenga, and Baikal Lake | What country in the world has such advantages for the employ- ment of steam as Siberia? and what a relief would it not give to the aborigines, in saving them at 2 E 2 42() ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL’s. least ſifty thousand horses every year, which are now, through fatigue, cold, hunger, and being overladen, left to perish The value of the Amour is, however, so gene- rally known, and its loss so sensibly felt, that it were needless to point out the benefits which would arise from the purchase of it; all that sur- prises me is, that the Russians have not attempt- ed to open a treaty even for the privilege of na- vigating the river: then the direct trade between Irkutsk and Kamtchatka, Japan and the Pacific in general, would be astonishing, while now it is at best contemptible. To return to the voyage, which occupied us fourteen days, with mild and favourable weather, and but little fog. On the seventh day we passed the Kurile Islands in safety, and on the tenth made the Avatcha Peak. Strong north winds and a still stronger and perpetual south-east current, together with the want of practical knowledge in the commanders of vessels in this part of the world, retarded our progress, so that we did not anchor until the fifteenth day, when I was received under the roof of the amiable and hospitable chief, Captain Rikord; the gentleman, as will be remembered, who rescued Captain Golovnin from the hands of the Japanese. I arrived in time to partake of the feast, given in ST. PETElt AND ST. l'AUL’s. 42 i honour of the Saint after whom the lady of the chief is named. It was attended by all the youth, beauty, and fashion of the town of St. Peter and St. Paul's. During our passage across the sea, little of in- terest was excited. I had occasion, during calm weather, to witness the struggles of the whale, and listen to its groans, when attacked by the kasatki, a species of sword-fish, We had frequent opportunities of ascertaining the state of the cur- rents, which were invariably found setting to the S.E. at the rate of two and three miles per hour, In one of these excursions, and when I was in a small punt boat, with a deep sea lead down for an anchor, the laziness of the crew got the better of their prudence, and nearly prevented my now relating the tale. Although in a small punt, the crew persisted in pulling towards the brig, with the deep sea lead down : the consequences were as might be expected—the moment we ceased rowing, to enable us to take hold of a rope thrown to us, that moment, of course, the punt got sternway, and continued it until the lead was brought up and down ; but although the boat was nearly swamped by this unsailorlike conduct, yet, in spite of remonstrance, was it again fruit- lessly attempted. Whether this conduct pro- ceeded from obstimacy, ignorance, or fearlessness, I leave the reader to judge. At length the crew 422 ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL's. took my advice, and we gained the brig. I had also an opportunity of establishing the latitude of Povorotnoi Noss, and which is correctly laid down in the old chart of Admiral Saretcheff’s, while the more modern one of Admiral Kruzen- stern is incorrect by nineteen miles. The longitudes of Nishney Kolymsk, of Okotsk, and of the island of Eon, have, however, 3° of error in the former Admiral's chart; this may probably have pro- ceeded from inadvertency, and not from error of calculation, as Captain Billings used English books to calculate by, while Admiral Saretcheff must have used French. The former only un- derstood his own English, and of course used the meridian of London ; the latter, most likely, used the meridian of Paris, as he did not understand English. I mention the circumstance of excul- pation, because the errors are known to exist. Three degrees must be added to the longitude of the place according to the charts extant; in short, it ought to be about 146° east of London. In passing the Kurile Islands, the general line of them appeared to be well laid down, with the exception of the second and fourth islands, which, with Cape Lopatka, should be placed farther to the east, to bring them upon a north-east line with the islands to the Southward of them; or the southern islands should be placed more to the ST, PETER AND ST. PAUL’s. 423 westward to bring them upon a south-west line from Cape Lopatka, for that is their exact direc- tion, although the charts lay them down other- wise. I had no other means than half a dozen compasses of ascertaining where the fault lies. The islands and peninsula are elevated, bold, and very accessible; passages may be run for during the night in spite of the fogs, and there is no danger any where but in the Lopatka channel, where a strong south-east current always sets. The average temperature of the atmosphere was 15° of heat. In the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul's, I found the Russian expedition under the orders of Captain Vassillieff, who had returned from a fruit- less attempt to get round the American Continent. They rounded Icy Cape about thirty miles beyond Captain Cook, although they fell short of him on the Asiatic side by two degrees. Little increase of knowledge will be gained to the world by this expedition: the most valuable is, the having ascer- tained that a strong current runs round Icy Cape to the north-east and east,-so strong, that it was with great difficulty Captain Vassillieff could get back his fast-sailing sloop She certainly was not provided with the means, nor was she a fit vessel for wintering on the American coast, sepa- rated from her consort, a large transport of six 424 ST. PETER AND ST. P.AUL’s. hundred tons. What would Captain Parry have given for such a fair current 2 Had the state of Captain Vassilieff’s ship permitted his running for the accomplishment of the voyage in general, he certainly had the fairest opportunity that ever man had, for the result of Captain Parry's first voyage was known at Kamtchatka, as a correct chart of that voyage, and the situation of Melville Island, had been forwarded, and had actually reached there a few days after Captain Vassilieff arrived. Little or no doubt can exist that he could have reached Melville Island : that there was an open sea to the east, and a current of three knots per hour, I have reason to know. Unfortunately, however, the expedition was not in a fit state to make the attempt again ; but what may be done by Captain Kotzebue, time alone will show : though I believe his instructions are so limited, that he is not to attempt the passage, but to sur- vey the sound named after him, and protect the Russian commerce in that part of the world. I am, however, free to think that the passage by Behr- ing's Straits is the best. Should Captain Kotzebue be determined to attempt the passage round Icy Cape, he will, no doubt, find a place for wintering ; or he may winter in the sound called after, and re- discovered by him, for it has been known to the Russians more than one hundred years. The ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL’s. 425 winter may be employed to great advantage, as there are natives in the vicinity, with dogs and rein-deer; and I should think, that with proper caution, and people qualified for the task, the coast as far as M'Kenzie's River might be surveyed in one winter. Dogs to assist could also be pro- cured at Kamtchatka. I found also in St. Peter and St. Paul’s, a brig under Portuguese colours, as well as one from the Sandwich Islands. The former brought a cargo of flour from Macao, the other a cargo of salt as a present to the Emperor from the sable majesty of those islands, and in return received as a pre- sent such things as seemed most desirable; among others, some animals, with a view of propagating the breed; though it may be doubted whether the propagation of bears, which they also received, will be beneficial or acceptable. The Sandwich brig was a fine American vessel, officered by three Englishmen, and entirely manned by natives. The conduct of the Executive here towards the Sandwichers was flattering; and it is not a little singular that the first voyage undertaken by them should be to Kamtchatka, almost the least known part of the world. What with the expedition, transports and foreigners, this place had at one time, as many as eight vessels in it;-the largest number it ever counted before. 426 ST. PETICIR AND ST. PAUL's. It may readily be believed that I felt great pleasure in meeting with three Englishmen, inde- pendent of three on board of the Sandwich vessel, in such a distant part of the world. One was the Russian Consul-general to the Pacific Ocean, Peter Dobell, Esq. formerly a merchant of Canton, re- siding in Manilla, whither he had returned after escaping the dreadful massacre in that place. I found him, during the long stay I had in Kamt- chatka, a polite, hospitable, and finished gentle- man, a sincere friend, and, in short, a real Irish- man. He had some few years ago been so fortunate as to contribute to the safety of a Russian frigate, under the command of Captain Kruzenstern, which ship was upon the point of being seized by the Chinese authorities at Canton. Secret intelligence communicated to Mr. Dobell, was as readily given to the captain, and reported to the Court of St. Petersburg, when the Emperor Alexander, ever alive to reward the meritorious, presented him with a valuable brilliant ring, and gave him his pre- sent situation; which last was the more acceptable, as he was compelled to quit Canton, and forfeit his business. A second was a plain good honest Bos- tonian, encumbered with six children and a wife, else a man who ought to return to his native land, where his circumstances are good : I experienced much civility and kindness from him. The last ST, PETER AND ST. PAUL’S. 427 was a Cockney, who had been exiled from Mos- cow for forgery; and, although he had been flog- ged, knouted, &c. was still well received in every house. I know not how such things are managed in this country, but no doubt can exist that in Siberia, and probably in Botany Bay, the convicts are well received, that is, if their situation in life was formerly respectable. For my own part, I could only pity him, and rejoice that the punish- ment inflicted was so merciful; had he been a Russian, the case would have been different. Time rolled away in the agreeable society of the chief and his amiable lady, together with the very fine young men who composed the officers belonging to the expedition and to the port. I felt anxious to get away from the perpetual course of balls, routs, dinners, and masquerades, which were alternately given by the chiefs of Kamtchat- ka and the Expedition, as well as by the officers of them. Nor did the representative of his sable majesty of the Sandwich Islands fail to honour all individuals of rank and fashion with a splen- did déjeune. The last fête given, was by the au- thor of this Narrative, when the British flag, for the first time, waved over the land of Kamtchatka. However much the chief felt inclined to grant me the means of departing, it was impossible until the expedition had quitted the bay : only one post {: § ºr Gë A § { 428 ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL’S. could be sent, and that I desired to accompany. Two months passed in this manner before the expedition departed, when I was left to the free enjoyment of a passion which was crowned with the reward of marriage;—so much then for my travellership. However, I had no alternative, and the day that Captain Vassilieff left the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul's I put the question. My airy phantoms, my bold desires, and my eccen- tric turn, being thus dissipated by one woman, I prepared to make a tour of the peninsula before I led my intended bride to the altar. ENID OF WOL. I. LONDON PIR INTED BY S. R. R. BENT LIEY, DO RSLT ST tº E. E.T. 1 ()2 * 70 409 AA A 30 sº THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN GRADUATE LIBRARY DATE DUE Form 9584 №ţi ķ ț¢ № -ķ §§ � Fº $º º 㺠§§