WILLIAN1 L.
CLE MENTS
LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY
OF
MICH IGAN
The
James
Shearer ||
Fund

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R O U ºf E
AC Ross T H E R O C R Y MOUNTA INS,
w IT H. A.
DESCRIPTION OF OREGON AND CALIFGRNIA:
1 Hell:
GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES, THEIR RESOURCES, SOIL,
CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS, &c., &c.
---------------------------
ºw ovºº Tom Jorisson aris * VI. H. WHN Tºº,
OF THE EMIGRATION OF 1843.
--~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
LAPAYETTE, IND.
jo H. N. B. S. K. M. A. N. S., P R IN T E R
1846.

-
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1846, by Overton Johnson,
in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Dis-
trict of Indiana.
-

P. R. E. F. A. () E,
--~~~~~~~~~~ º sº-
From the general interest manifested by the People of the Uni-
ted States, and particularly that portion residing in the great Wal-
ley of the Mississippi, in regard to the Territory of Oregon and
the Province of California, we have been impressed with the be-
lief, that any correct information concerning those countries, clad
in ever so homely and unpretending a garb, would be received by
them with favor. From this conviction, and indulging the hope
that a long and tedious tour, might thus be turned to public as
well as individual advantage, we have concluded to give the
following pages to the press.
There is, we suppose, no portion of North America, East of that
great dividing chain—the Rocky Mountains—similar to that on the
West. The general features of the country, the climate, the soil,
vegetation, all are different. Nature appears to have created there,
upon a grander scale. The mountains are vast; the rivers are
majestic ; the vegetation is of a giant kind; the climate, in the
same latitude, is much milder. The soil, generally, is inſerior to
that of the Western States. Many of the valleys, in point of fer.
tility, are perhaps, unsurpassed; but to compare the whole country
with an equal portion of the Western States, it is much inſerior.
Only a small portion of those territories laid down on the maps
as Oregon and California, are at all calculated for settlement: much
the largest portion of both, are nothing more than barren wastes,

iy PREFACE.
which can yield little or nothing to the support of animal life.
The valuable portion of Oregon lies between the Blue Mountains
and the Coast; and the valuable portion of California, between the
California Mountains and the Coast. The principal advan-
tages that those countries possess over the Western States, are a
mild and very healthy climate, and an excellent commercial situa-
tion.
Our description of those countries, we are aware, will differ, in
many respects, from those which have been, and that probably will
be given, by others; for, as men are constituted differently, with diſ.
ferent faculties, with different tastes and inclinations; so they differ
in their opinions in regard to things. It is impossible for all to
view the same things with the same eye. The same situation, the
same soil, the same climate, the same country, is not—cannot be,
adapted to the wishes and wants of all; therefore, though the thing
described be the same, therº will be a slight difference of coloring
in the descriptions of different persons, which will to some extent
- convey different ideas ſo the mind of the same reader. Ma-
my of the accounts given of those countries are too flattering ;
and, again, on the contrary, some make their disadvantages to ap-
pear greater than they really are. These different descriptions
have not always been given to mislead; but are frequently the
offspring of the differing judgment of those who have written.
Some will probably form opinions from our statements, and some
may be induced to visit or emigrate to those distant Western shores;
and iſ such should be the case, they may be disappointed in their
expectations, and find countries differing widely from the pictures
they had drawn. It is difficult to form a correct idea of a coun-
try from any description that can be given. Men are apt to expect
too much—to draw their pictures too fair; they look to those wild
and distant regions for something surpassing nature, and
they are disappointed. The world contains now no Garden of
Eden. There is no particular portion of the habitable globe that
possesses advantages greatly superior to the rest. If one has a
better climate, the other has a better soil; if one has a better
-
--

PREFACE. w
commercial situation, the other has some counterbalancing advan-
tage, sufficient to make them nearly or quite equal.
The route to California, the description of that country, and the
return from it to Fort Hall, are from the notes of Wm. H. Winter.


0 0 NT ENTS,
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Independence for Oregon—Country of the Shawnee and Kan-
zas Indians–Rainy weather and muddy traveling—Antelopes and Prairie
Dogs–Cold rain-storm on the Platte–Buffalo region—Sand-hills–Pawnee
and Sioux Indians--Forts on the Platte–Black Hills—Red Butes—Killing a
Grizzly Bear—Sulphur Spring—Summit of the Rocky Mountains.
CHAPTER II.
Trading House of Vasques and Bridger—Attacked by the Sioux—Soda Springs
—Deep Chasm and the Crater of an extinct Volcano–Fort Hall–Snake or
Lewis River, Falls, &c.—Snow Storm, and difficulty of starting fire–Indians
along Snake River—Numerous evidences of great Volcanic action in past
times–Fort Boise—Hills of Marble—Grand Round–Blue Mountains, &c.
–Whitman's Mission, on the Walawala–Fort Walawala–Columbia River,
Falls, &c.—-Cascade Mountains—-Wascopin Methodist Mission—Indian
Burying place–Fort Vancouver—Arrival at Oregon City, &c.
CHAPTER III.
Willammette Falls, Mills, &c.—Description of the Willammette Valley—
Head of the Willammette River—Calapooiah Mountains—Umqua Valley–
Umqua Mountains–Valley of Rogue's River—Clamuth or Chesty Valley—
Description of Country North of the Columbia–Mount St. Helens, an ac-
tive Volcano–Numerous low Islands in the Columbia River–Astoria or
Fort George—Indians West of the Cascade Mountains—their method of
gatching Salmon—Government organized—Peopling of America and Pacific
Islands–Scenary in Oregon.
-
yiii CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
Route from Oregon to California–Rendezvous–Indian War Dance–Indians
came to Camp to trade–Adventure of an Iroquois Indian–An Alarm—Su-
gar Pine–Soda Spring—Sacramento River—Sacramento Hills—Rugged
Road–Indians on the Sacramento–Fort, Trading Post, &c., of Capt. Sutter.
CHAPTER v.
Bay of Francisco–Sacramento and St. Wakine Valleys—Many narrow fertile
Valleys–Great Lake, &c.—Barren Mountains, containing Silver Ore and
good Water Power–Tar Spring—Gold found in the Pueblo Valley–Cul-
tivation of the Vine–Spanish Dance—Wild Horses—Unsuccessful attempt
to take them. - -
CHAPTER VI.
Leave California for the United States—Difficulties in crossing Juba Rivér–
Extensive viow from the summit of a mountain, with a deep snow on one
side, and naked earth and fine grass on the other—Burnt Mountains–Boil-
ing Springs–Sink of Marie's River, and singular peculiarity of the stream
—Encamp in the bend of the river, and have horses shot by the Indians–-
Travel over extensive wastes, and finally come to the Oregon trail.
-
-
CHAPTER VII.
- - -
Return from Oregon City to the United States—Difficulty with the Walawait.
Indians, and timely intervention of Capt. Grant—Meet with Wm. H. Win-
ter, on his return from California, near Fort Hall–Difficulty with the Paw-
nees–Come to the Western settlements of the United States.
CHAPTER VIII.
Concluding remarks, giving a brief but general view of Oregon and Califor
nia as regards the Agricultural, Manufacturing, and Commercial advantages
of those countries, &c., &c,


j () U R N A I, ,
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CHAPTER I.
THE JOURNEY OUT, WITH ITS INCIDENTS.
Departure from Independence—Country of the Shawnee and Kanzas Indians
—Rainy Weather and muddy traveling—Antelopes and Prairie Dogs-Cold
Rain Storm on the Platte–Buffalo region–Sand Hills–Pawnee and Sioux
Indians–Forts on the Platte–Black Hills–Red Butes—Killing a Grizley
Bear—Sulphur Springs–Summit of the Rocky Mountains.
In the latter part of May, 1843, we left Independence, a small
town in the Western part of the State of Missouri, situated six
miles South of the Missouri River and twelve miles from the Western
line of the State, and now the principal starting point for all the
companies engaged in the Western and New Mexican trade, and
place of general rendezvous of persons from all parts of the United
States, wishing to emgirate or travel beyond the Rocky Mountains.
In a few hours we passed the Western boundary of the State, and
came into the territory of the Shawnee Indians. They occupy a
small, but very beautiful and fertile country, laying immediately
West of the State line. The Shawnees have made considerable ad-
vancement towards civilization. Many of them have good farms
and comfortable houses. Some of them are good Mechanics, and
most of them speak the English language tolerably well.
We were traveling here in the great Santa Fe trace, and again
and again, we passed long trains of Merchant wagons, laden with
the products of our Manufactories and other Merchandize, and
bearing them afar across the deserts, to be exchanged for the gold
º -
10 THE JOURNEY OUT,
and silver of the Provinces of Mexico. This trace is large, and as
well beaten, as many of the most important public highways in the
States.
After leaving the country of the Shawnees, we came next into
that of the Kanzas Indians. Their's, also, is a very beautiful coun-
try; entirely in a state of nature. It differs but little from the
Western part of Missouri, except that the surface is more undu-
lating, and that it has less timber. Here we left the last traces of
civilization, and seemed, for a time, to be beyond even the borders
of animated existence. Not even the song of a bird broke upon
the surrounding stillness; and, save the single track of the Emi-
grants, winding away over the hills, not a foot print broke the rich,
unvaried verdure of the broad forest-begirt prairies; and in the lit-
tle islet groves that dotted the plain—the wooded strips that wound
along with the course of the rivulet—and the blue wall that sur-
rounded, not a trunk was scarred nor a twig was broken. It was
a vast, beautiful and perfect picture, which nature herself had
drawn, and the hand of man had never violated. No decoration of
art, mingled to confuse or mar the perfection. All was natural,
beautiful, unbroken. The transition had been sudden, as the change
was great. Every thing was calculated to inspire the mind with
feelings of no common kind. He alone, who for the first time stands
upon the deck of some tall ship, whose sails are spread before the
breeze, and whose foaming prow looks steadily towards some dis-
tant clime, when for the first time he sees the loved shores of his
native land sink into the wave, and the blue waters of the treach-
erous deep gather around him, may appreciate the sensations which
awakened in our hearts, when here we reflected upon where we
were, and what we had undertaken: when the past; all that we
had left behind us–nothing less than the whole civilized world,
with all of its luxuries, comforts, and most of its real necessities—
society, friends, home, -all that is in this world dear to man:-when
the future, dark and uncertain—presenting nothing but a vast
extent of drear and desert wastes, uninhabited save by the wild
beast and savage—filled, perhaps, with thousands of unknown diſh-
culties and dangers, hardships and privations,—rushed at once, in
mingled confusion, upon the mind, and impressed upon our feelings
a full sense of the loneliness of our situation and the rapidly in-
creasing space that was separating us from from all communion
with the civilized world.
The morning had been fair, and we were moving slowly along



















WITH ITS INCIDENTS. 11
through the middle of one of the wide prairies, without noticing
the cloud which had been gathering in the North, until its thunders
awoke us from our dreaming. The breeze, which before had scarce-
ly stirred the grass upon the plain, grown into a gale, now roared
over the hills. The rain soon followed, pouring in torrents. Out
mules, wheeling with their heads from the storm, refused to pro-
cred. We were therefore compelled quietly to endure it, and wait
upon the pleasure of our long eared masters. Fortunately, it last-
ed for but little more than an hour; but this was sufficient for us to
become completely drenched with the rain and chilled with the cold.
But in a short time the cloud passed over, and the rays of the sun
having dried our garments and tempered the atmosphere to its pre-
vious mildness, made every thing appear more cheerful than be:
ſore.
This we regarded as a sort of introduction to the next six months.
As the sun approached the horizon, we turned aside and halted, on
the bank of a small creek, and made preparations to pass the night.
We turned our animals loose to graze, having first fastened strong
cords, about ten yards in length, about their necks, that we might
not have difficulty in catching them. After they had run loose
some time, one end of the cord was fastened to a stake, to prevent
their rambling away, through the night, and the rope was sufficient-
ly long to give them room to ſeed plentifully. Having pitched our
tent and kindled a fire, supper was soon prepared, spread upon the
ground, and we took our seats upon the grass around it. Three ar-
ticles–bread, ment and coffee-completed the variety of the board:
and although they were not prepared in the nearest and most tasteful
manner, yet our appetites spoke abundant praises for the ability of
the cook. Supper being finished, as the night grew dark, we re-
tired one by one to rest, spreading our beds upon the ground. We
slept to dream of all that we loved and had left behind us, and awoke
to know that they were far from us and that our home was the
wild uncultivated field of nature, “whose walls the hills and forests
were, whose canopy the sky.” Having traveled up the Kanzas
River 90 miles, we cane, on the 30th of May, to where the Eni.
grants were crossing: We saw here the first village of Kanzas
Indians. Their buts are made of poles and bark, and are about
sixteen ſee: wide, by thirty long, and eight high. The ends are
perpendicular, but the sides joining with the root in a gradual curve,
make the whole very nearly in the shape of the half of a circular
cylinder. They were very filthy and almost entirely naked, not
| 2 THE JOURNEY OUT.
lisposed to be hostile to the whites, but like most other Indians, they
are expert and inveterate the vies. The River not being fordable.
the Emigrants constructed two large canoes, which they fastened
together at a sufficient distance apart, by a platform of round poles
ºil across and extending from one end to the other. Upon this
they placed the wagons by hand, and ferried them across the stream.
The cattle and horses were turned loose and made to swim to the op-
posite shore. We sacceeded in getting across on the same day that
we arrived, and aſter delaying one day and a half, endeavoring to
make up a small company to precede the main body and follow on
the trail of Mr. Wm. Sublet and Sir Wm. Stewart, who were
ahead, with a company of men, on a party of pleasure to the Moun-
ans, we succeeded in making our company eight persons, and
again began to travel. -
The lºngrants, amounting, in all, to about six hundred persons,
after they had finished crossing, organized themselves into a sort
of traveling Government; adopted a short code of laws, employed
a pilot, and elected a captain and officers of the guard. We still
continued to travel up the Kanzas , but leaving it further and fur-
ther to the leſ. The valley of this stream is high rolling prairies,
and is very ſenile. Its bottoms are wide, and there are numerous
branches coming in from both sides, on all of which there is timber
most varieties ſound West of the Mississippi, some of which is
- -
Ninety miles above our crossing, we came to and crossed Big
ºne River, one of its main branches. Here the Emigrants came
up with us, and it was late in the night before their last wagons
got over. This region has the character of being the residence of
storms, and immediately after our arrival some of the blustering
habitants introduced themselves in a manner that was by no
- means agreeable. After the sun went down, a dense black cloud
covered the sky, from which the rain ſell in torrents during the
whole night. The extreme darkness was dispelled by the dazzling
and incessant flashes of lightning. The thunder kept up a con-
stant roar, and frequently its sharp peals resembled the discharge
of volleys of artillery. The wind blew so high that most of the
ents were thrown down, and one of the wagons was fairly blown
over. The surface of the ground was flooded with water, and in
the morning we found the River, which we had crossed on the past
evening without difficulty, had risen so rapidly as to overflow its
bottoms near one fourth of a mile on either side, and was entirely
impassabla.





wn TH ITS INCIDENTS. 13
This is the middle ground between the Kanzas and Pawnee In-
dians. The day before we crossed the Big Blue River, we met “
war party of Kaus, (Kanzas) returning from the Pawnee country.
They told us they had seen the Pawnees, and had beaten them in
battle; but we learned afterwards, from a more creditable source,
that it was exactly the other way. They had one or two fresh scalps
and as many wounded men, and were leaving the world behind
them as fast as possible. We saw their battle-ground afterwards,
and found on it two or three dead bodies. Here, the Emigrants,
finding that it was inconvenient and retarding to their progress, to
to travel in so large a body, dissolved their first organization and
formed thmselves into smaller companies.
It continued to rain, at intervals, for several days, and the road
which had before been as good as we could wish, became quite mud-
dy and bad. After leaving Big Blue River, we continued to travel
through a country very similar to that previously described, ex-
cepting that the proportion of timber was less, until we came to the
Little Blue River—a distance of 70 miles; and here, the hills bor-
dering on the stream, are a little sandy. After striking this stream,
we continued to travel up it 50 miles; then leaving it, turned
across in a North Westerly direction, for the main Platte River.
On the Little Blue River we found a few Antelopes, which were the
first wild animals of any size, which we had seen since we left
the States; and after leaving the waters of the Kanzas we found
no bees, and this, from all that we could learn, is the farthest point
West which they have yet reached: Nor did we find any of the
wild fowls, or smaller animals, common in the Western States, un-
til we passed the Mountains. We reached the Platte River in the
evening; the distance across being about 25 miles, which is the
greatest, on the whole route, without water.
After leaving the waters of the Kanzas, the character of the
country changes rapidly. The hills, on either side of the narrow
valley of the Platte, which is from five to ten miles wide, are little
else than huge piles of sand. The valley itself is quite sandy;
but it nevertheless produces a rich grass, which our animals were
very fond of. It is also covered, in many places, with the Prickly
Pear, the thorns of which frequently get into the feet of the loose
cattle and produce lameness. The River is from one to three
miles in width, and the bed of the channel is entirely of quick-
sand. When we came to it, it was quite full, and the water was
every where running level with its banks, but seldom overflow.

14 Tº C JOURNEY OUT
ing them, and was running with a strong, even current. There
is, in many places along the Platte, a kind of salt, with which the
ground, in spots, is covered; and the water in the River is slightly
impregnated. In some of the sloughs and pools, back from the
River, the water is very strong. We found but little wood here,
and none except immediately on the River. We were frequently
unable to procure it, and were compelled, sometimes, to make a
strange substitute in the excrement of the Buffalo, in order to do our
cooking. The varieties of timber are few : the principal kind
being what is commonly called Cotton Wood. We saw great num-
bers of Antelopes, as we passed up the River; but they were so
wild, and the valley was so level, that it was difficult to approach
them. We also saw a singular little animal, which has been called
the Prairie Dog. Its size, shape and color, are very much the
same as the large wharf rat, and its barking resembles that of the
common Gray Squirrel. They burrow in the ground, and live in
villages, frequently of several hundreds. There is a small Owl,
that sometimes lives in the same hole with the Dog.
As we were now coming into the game country, and expecting
every day to see the plains covered with herds of Buffalo; we
made up a hunting party, (having previously joined one of the en-
igrating parties) of 20 men, and proceeded up the River ahead of
the wagons, to obtain meat and dry it by the time they would come
up, in order to make as little detention as possible. In the even-
ing of the second day, we heard the guns of some of the party,
who were in chase of a Buffalo along the Southern side of the val-
ey, and as we saw the clouds begin to swell, dark and angrily
above the Western horizon, and heard their thunders muttering
heavily behind the hills, we thought it prudent to halt and prepare
our camp. As we saw no timber ahead, and did not wish to go
back, we stopped upon the open prairie, on the nearest high ground
to the River. The rain had begun to fall; but several of us, who
were anxious to see the Buſſalo, disregarding it, mounted our horses
and galloped across the valley, in the direction from which we had
heard the reports of the guns. The wind was blowing a gale; the
clouds grew darker, until they almost shut out the light of the set-
ting sun. The rain increased, and by the time we had reached the
spot where the hunters were butchering, it poured down upon us
as if all the windows of Heaven had been at once unbarred. The
lightening and the thunder, was dimming to the eye and deafening
to the ear; and, withal, it was certainly just as cold as it could be

WITH ITS INCIDENTS. 15
without the water congealing. “I never saw it rain before ” said
a poor fellow, whose teeth were chattering together, lºn a *
that seemed to threaten the destruction of his masticators. “ Nor
| " ... not I" – nor I"—echoed half a dozen others, who were:
as far as wet and cold were concerned, about in the same condition
that they would have been, had they have been soaked an age in
ºne Atlantic Ocean, and just hung out on the North Cape to dry.
we made all possible haste; but, nevertheless, it was near two hours
and growing quite dark, before we were ready to return to camp :
and then we were so benumbed by the wet and cold, and encum-
bered with the meat which we had taken, that it was quite dark by
the time we reached the River. When we came to the place where
we had left the camp, we learned from one who had been waiting
for us, that they had moved down the River, in hopes of finding wood.
We therefore threw the remainder of our things, which had been
left, upon our horses, and started to look for the camp. We saw
our way by the lightning, and after traveling as we thought long
enough to have gone several miles, we turned over the point of a
hill, and saw a small light like that of a candle, away below us on
the River. Taking a straight line for the light, we at length reach-
edit, after having waded through a dozen sloughs up to our waists.
We had expected to find a large blazing fire, and thought how
comfortable we should be when we could warm and dry around it;
and as we had not eaten any thing since morning, our apetites began
to remind us how excellent a piece of roasted Buffalo meat would be.
But how sadly were we disappointed, to find our companions shiv-
ering around a few coals, over which for fuel there was only a heap
of green Willow brush. Wet, cold, and hungry, we spread our
beds, which were of course as wet as water could make them, and
turned in; but not to sleep—it was only to dodge the wind, and
shiver the night away. At length the sky became clear, and the
cold increased. We watched the stars, which seemed stationary in
the sky. A dozen nights, according to the reckoning of our feel-
ings, had time to have passed, and to us it appeared as though the
sun would never rise; but at length it came, and never was dawn
of day hailed more rapturously. One who was braver than the
rest, summoning all his resolution, crawled out of bed: he would
have leaped and ran, had he been able; but that was impossible.—
His limbs refused to do their duty, and taking a hatchet, he waded
across an arm of the River to an Island, upon which there was
wood, and began cutting and carrying across. His example arous.
-
16 THE JOURNEY out,
ed others, and we soon had a large blazing fire. We spent several
hours in putting our arms in order, drying our clothes and bedding,
and appeasing our apetites on roasted ribs and marrow bones.
There were twenty of us, and we have frequently heard every
one of that number say, afterwards, that they had seen some rough
service in the world, but they had never met with anything that
could equal the night of the storm on the Platte. We continued to
travel up the river, hunting as we went; but without much success.
We saw a number of small herds of Buffalo; but they were gener-
ally too wild to approach, and too poor to eat after we had killed
them. At the Forks, one hundred miles above where we first struck
the River, we encamped, and by going several miles out beyond
the hills, we succeeded in killing a number of Buffalo, the meat
of which we brought in, dried and distributed among the company,
when they came up; but the quantity was so small, in proportion
to the numbers with whom it was to be divided, that it made scarce-
ly a taste.
The Forks of the Platte is about the middle ground between the
Pawnees and the Sioux. We saw a few of the Pawnees, in passing
through their country, who were returning from the South, where
they had been hunting, with packs of dried Buffalo meat, to their
village, situated about ſiſty miles below where we struck the Platte.
They are high, but well proportioned and active. They raise some
corn, but live principally upon the Buffalo, and are the most noto-
rious rascals any where East of the Rocky Mountains.
The valley immediately at the junction of the two Branches of
the Platte, is nearly twenty miles wide, and a large portion of it
has a good soil. After we had passed the Forks, we made several
attempts to cross the South Branch, but always found the water too
deep; and continued to travel up the South side, until we saw that
it would be impossible for us to find a ford; when we stopped at
a large Cotton Woodgrove, eighty five miles above the Forks, having
determined to construct boats. For this purpose we procured in
the first place, a sufficient number of green Buffalo hides, and hav.
ing sewed two of them together for each boat, we stretched them
over the wagon beds as tight as we could, with the flesh side out,
and then turned them up in the sun to dry; and when they be:
came thoroughly dry, we covered them with tallow and ashes, in
order to render them more impervious to the water. The boats be-
ing completed, we proceeded to cross the goods of the company.
Each boat was manned by six men. Some waded or swam along


















WITH ITS INCIDENTS. 17
side, while others pulled by a long rope which was attached for-
ward. The River here was about a mile wide. In this way the
goods were ferried over, and the empty wagons were drawn acrºss
by the teams a short distance below, where the River was wider
and shallower. The crossing was effected in six days, and without
any serious accident. We passed here the fourth day of July.
The country, as we advanced West, became more and more bar-
ren, until here it was little else than a desert: and between this
point and where we first saw the Platte River, it receives no trib-
utaries from the South.
Having crossed the South Fork, we turned across the higher diº
viding lands, and traveled one day North West twenty miles, to
the North Fork, without water. After traveling up the North
Fork sixty five miles, through a country still increasing in sterility,
we came to what is called the Chimney. It is situated on the
South side of the North Fork, three miles from the River. It is a
conical hill, one hundred and fifty feet high; from the top of
which, a peculiar irregular shaft rises to the same height—making
the whole about three hundred feet. The base of the hill is
elevated above the water in the River, about seventy-five feet. It
is a hard earth, composed of sand and clay, and may be seen for
twenty or thirty miles. There are here several ranges of detached
Sand Hills, running parallel with the River, the sides of which are
almost perpendicular, destitute of vegetation, and so washed by
the rains of thousands of years, as to present, at a distance, the
appearance of Cities, Temples, Castles, Towers, Palaces, and every
variety of great and magnificent structures.
On the 9th of July we had a splendid prospect of these Sand
Hills. A dark cloud arose in the West, and the whole region
was illumined by the reflected rays of the Sun, which, mellowed by
its effect, had lost their dazzling power; and the prospect was
softened, until it seemed one vast brilliant picture, wrought with
a mysteriously magic touch. Beneath the rising cloud was a vast
plain, bounded only by the distant horizon. Here and there, upon
its surface, there arose splendid edifices, like beautiful white marble,
fashioned in the style of every age and country, canopied by the
clouds; yet gilded and flooded by the mellowed light of the mid-
day Sun. It was so beautiful, that it could not be lost while it
lasted, and though the gathering clouds threatened to drench us
with their contents, we nevertheless continued to gaze until the
beautiful illusion passed away.
3.

18 THE JOURNEY OUT,
Late in the evening of the same day, we encamped by a fine
Spring, at the foot of Scott's Bluffs, a range of high Sand Hills,
which run into the River. They receive their name from a melan-
choly circumstance, which happened at them, several years ago.—
A small party of Trappers were returning from the Mountains, to
their homes in Missouri. Owing to the hostility of the Indians
who inhabited the country, (the Sioux,) it was necessary for their
safety, that they should not be seen. To prevent this, required the
greatest precaution in their movements. A few days before they
reached this place, one of their number, named Scott, was taken
sick and continued to grow worse, until he was unable to proceed.
His companions carried him to these bluffs, and supposing that he
could not recover, they left him. Others passing that way, some
years after, found his bones a short distance from where he had
been left. From this circumstance, these hills have been called,
since that time, aſter the name of that unfortunate adventurer. In
the extreme point of these hills, near the River, and about fifty
feet above high water, are found great numbers of semi-petrified
Turtles, from one to two ſeet across, imbedded in the sand, and ma-
ny of them entirely perfect. There are no animals of this kind
now in the Platte River, or elsewhere in the country, for several
hundred miles around.
We continued up the North Fork, and on the 13th came to Lau-
ramie Fork, opposite Fort Lauramie. Finding it full, we were
obliged to ferry, and for this purpose we procured two small boats
from the Forts, lashed them together, and covered them with a plat-
form made of wagon beds, which we had taken to pieces for the
purpose. Upon this platform, we placed the loaded wagons by
hand, and although the stream was very rapid, all succeeded in
crossing without much difficulty. A few hours after we crossed, a
hail storm came up from the North West; before which, our ani-
mals ran for several miles, over the hills. Fort Lauramie belongs
to the American Fur Company, and is built for a protection against
the Indians. The occupants of the Fort, who have been long
there, being mostly French and having married wives of the
Sioux, do not now apprehend any danger. The Fort is built of
Dobies, (unburnt bricks.) A wall of six feet in thickness and fifteen
in height, encloses an area of one hundred and fifty feet square.
Within and around the wall, are the buildings, constructed of the
same material. Those are a Trading House, Ware Houses for
storing goods and skins, Shops and Dwellings for the Traders and

WITH ITS INCIDENTS. 19
Men. In the centre, is a large open area. A portion of the en-
closed space is cut off by a partition wall, forming a carell, (enclo-
sure) for the animals belonging to the Fort. About one mile below
Fort Laurimie, is Fort Platte; which is built of the same materials
and in the same manner, and belongs to a private Trading Com-
pany.
On the morning of the 16th, we left the Forts, and aſter having
traveled ten miles, we came to the Black Hills, and encamped at a
large Spring, the water of which was quite warm. The road
through these hills is, of necessity, very circuitous; winding about
as it must, to avoid the steeps, ravines, and rocks. They are very
barren and some of them are high. On Long's Peak, which rises
to the South, we could see a small spot of snow. We found in
places, a few trees of Pine and Cedar scattered over the hills; but
they were all small and quite dwarfish. We crossed a number of
Creeks on our way through the Black Hills, in the narrow bottom
lands of which, we generally ſound good grass for our animals.
On the 20th, we met Messrs. Vasques and Walker, with a com-
pany of twenty or thirty men, coming down from the Mountains,
where Messrs. Vasques and Bridger have a small Trading Post
among the Shoshonee or Snake Indians. They were loaded with
furs and skins, which they were taking to the Forts on the Platte,
where they supply themselves with such articles as they want for
the Indian trade.
Eighty miles above Fort Lauramie, we came to the Red Butes,
(isolated hills.) They occupy a space of many miles in extent, and
a large portion of the earth and stone of which they are composed,
is as red as blood.
On the 23d, we crossed the North Fork, one hundred and
twenty seven miles above Fort Lauramie, and for two days after
leaving it, we suffered considerably for the want of water—the lit.
tle which we found, being strongly impregnated with a kind of
Salt, prevalent almost every where in the neighborhood of the
waters of the Platte. At one of these Salt Springs, there are
numerous sinks, into winch the Buffalo sometimes failand perish,
The surfaces of them are dry, and appear firm; but in many pla-
ces, they would mire a man, so that it would be impossible for him
to extricate himself or escape, without assistance.
On the 25th, we came to the Willow Springs, where we found a
beautiful Spring, of very clear cold water, rising in a little green
valley, through which its waters flow about one mile, and sink in

20 THE JOURNEY OUT,
the sand. We also found here, an abundance of Willow wood.--
The hunters, who had been out while we were traveling, had seen
several bands of Buffalo; and as they were the first we had met
with since we left the South Fork, we remained in camp nearly a
day, in order to recruit our stock of provisions. The great scarci-
ty of the Buffalo, through this country—a circumstance which
afterwards was the cause of much suffering to the Emigrants—was
attributable, in a great degree, to the presence of Sir william
Stewart, with his pleasure party, and fifty or sixty fine horses for
the chase; who, while we were passing through the Buffalo coun-
try, constantly kept several days ahead of us—running, killing and
driving the game out of our reach. It was cheap sport to them,
but dear to us; and we were led to conclude, that, if ever again
an English or Scottish nobleman sees fit to look for pleasure in the
Rocky Mountains, while an emigrating party is passing over
them, it will be prudent to place him in the rear, instead of the
Wan.
On the 20th, we encamped on Sweet Water, one of the tributa-
ries of the North Fork, near the Independence Rock; which is a
huge isolated mass of coarse granite, about three-fourths of a mile
in circumference, one hundred feet high, rather oblong, and roun-
ded on the top. On the South side, next to the stream, which runs
within ten yards of is base, it is almost covered with the names of
different persons, who have traveled through this country. It was
called Independence Rock, by Mr. Wm. Sublet, an old Indian Tra-
der; who, several years ago, celebrated here, the 4th of July.—
These masses of detached and barren rocks, extend many miles
up Sweet Water, principally on the North side. At the Sweet
Water Canion, about four miles above the Independence Rock, the
river runs half a mile through a narrow chasm, between rugged
and almost perpendicular walls of rock, which rise on either side
to the height of about three hundred feet,_(and this constitutes
what is known through the Rocky Mountains, Oregon and Califor-
nia, as a Canion.) Being informed by those who were acquainted
with the country, that we should soon leave the Buffalo region, all
the different companies of the Emigration remained several days on
this part of Sweet Water, to procure provisions for the remainder
of the journey. Owing to the scarcity of game, we were compel-
led to travel a day, and sometimes further, from the road, to find it.
We made up a party here from our company, to go to the Moun-
tains on the South, which were distant about fifteen miles from the

WITH ITS INCIDENTS. 2 :
River. Having crossed over the plain, and seeing but few Buffa-
o, and those we saw being very wild, and some of the bands being
already persued by other hunters; we continued along the Moun-
tain to the farther extremity of the valley, and finding nothing here,
we held a council, to decide what course it was best to pursue-
Differing in opinion, the larger number turned back tº follow the
base of the Mountain on the North side, while a small party con-
tinued on, intending to cross over it. We found it very steep, rug-
ged, and difficult of ascent; and night overtaking us near the sum-
mit, we were compelled to encamp. The Mountain was covered in
places with pine, and there were many small streams running
down its sides, upon which there was an abundangº of grass. The
night was quite cold; but as we were in a deep sink, at the source
of one of these Mountain streams, we thought there would be
little danger of being seen, and built up a large fire; by which we
slept very comfortably; having, before going to rest, tied our ani-
mals on the grass. In the morning we ascended to the summit, to
ascertain what lay beyond it, and look over the best probable field
for game. Having gained it, we saw an extensive plain, through
which, at a great distance, there was a River flowing, which we
supposed to be the North Fork of the Plate. The descent to it
was easy, and there were several bands of Buffalo feeding upon it,
below us. We returned for our horses, and having passed into the
plain, began to approach the nearest herd; but they took fright
before we came within shooting distance, and we proceeded to the
next. Having come near them, we stopped, leaving one of our
company with the animals, while we approached nearer on foot.
The ground favoring, we succeeded in bringing them within the range
of the rifle; and killed three before they ran off. It was now the
second day since we had eaten, and as soon as we could load our
animals with the choice meat, we went to the nearest water, (which,
contrary to the way it generally happens, was only a short distance
from us,) kindled a fire and had a fine feast of “roasted ribs and
marrow bones.”
Having what meat we could carry, we proceeded West, along
the foot of the Mountain, for a deep gap, which we had seen from
the other side, in the evening. About sunset, as we were going
along, we saw three Bears, up in the breaks of the Mountain, busily
engaged scratching in the earth for roots. Having taken advan.
tage of the ground, we approached near to them, and again leaving
ºur partner, who was not a very good shot, a little distance behind

22 - THE JOURNEY OUT,
with the horses and mules, we climbed up to the brink of the ridge
between us and the Bears, and ſired at the largest one. It fell, and
supposing that we had given it a dead shot, we borrowed our com-
panion's gun, intending to serve the second in the same way; but
finding the first still alive, we gave him the contents of the second
gun , upon receiving which, he sprang upon one of the others, and
cuffed him until he squalled for dear life. We returned and were
hastily reloading our rifles, and had only poured down the powder,
when all three came rushing to the top of the hill, roaring most
furiously, and so loud that the answering hills and hollow caves
were filled with the beastly thunder. They stopped within forty
yards of us, and in open view, rearing up on their hinder feet, the
wounded one in the middle—which, as he stood, was about eight
feet high-with the blood streaming from his mouth and down his
side, snuffing the air on every side, to catch some tainted breath of
us; but the wind was ours, and being blind with rage and pain, he
did not discover us. Our companion became dreadfully frightened,
so that he lost all reason, and commenced running around his horse,
and exclaiming loudly, “Oh Lord! what shall we do!” We told him
to mount; but he still continued running around his horse, bawling
at the top of his voice: “Good God Almighty! what shall we do?”
“Mountſ mount!” said we again; but he paid no attention, and was
making about the twentieth trip around his horse, crying aloud,
“Oh Lord!” “Oh Lord!” at every step; when we gave a loud
whoop, and the two Bears that were not wounded wheeled and ran
off, and the wounded one tumbled back down the hill. This set
our partner a little to rights, and turning to us, with a look of most
perfect simplicity, he exclaimed, in a half weeping tone, “Good
God! we can’t fight them three Bears.” You were frightened,
were you not! said we. “Ono, no, not bad scared,” said he “but
stop–stop—look here,” he continued, “may such another beautiful
roar as that we just now heard, be my music from this on, if
you ever catch me in a bear fight again,” he added, shaking his
head.
Having finished charging our rifles, and dispatching the wound-
ed animal, we proceeded towards the gap, traveling until late in the
night: when one of the mules throwing off and scattering its load,
obliged us to encamp. The next morning we set out again, at the
dawn of day, and soon reached the gap; which we found to be a
deep break, extending entirely through the Mountain, and about
two hundred yards wide. In passing through the gap, we came to
WITH ITS INCIDENTs. 23
several fine looking springs bursting out from the base of the Moun-
tain; and dismounting to drink, we found them to be strong of
Sulphur, and upon examining more closely, we saw the little cave
out of which the largest one ran, in a stream about equal to the
size of a man's arm, was entirely covered with a thick coat of crys-
talized Sulphur. The water was cold, slightly acid, and very
pleasant. The country around is romantic, affords all the different
varieties of game common in the Mountains, and would, we think,
be an excellent resort for invalids, and persons of weak and disor-
dered constitutions. The trip, the pure Mountain air, and the
rough and wholesome manner of living, have already restored
many who were before feeble and afflicted; to health, strengh, and
activity; and we are convinced they are better remedies for con-
stitutional or pulmonary diseases, than all the Patent Medicines
and learned prescriptions, with which the public have ever been
gulled.
Having passed through the gap, we traveled across the valley of
Sweet Water, and to the trail of the Emigrants, and saw, from its
size, that all the companies had passed. We hastened to overtake
them, which we did that night; but not until late. During our
absence, Messrs. Vasques and Walker came up, on their return
from Fort Lauramie, and afterwards, traveled with us to their Tra.
ding House.
On the 1st of August, we saw arise from the horizon, like distant
clouds, the snow crested summits of the Wind River Mountains.
They are several miles North of the Grand Pass, and are one of
the highest portions of the Rocky Mountain range.
On the 2nd, we made another hunting party, and proceeded
again across the Mountain, on the South. After having gone about
thirty miles from the trail, we saw a large band of Buffaloes; but,
as it was late in the evening, we thought it best not to disturb them
before morning. When morning came, not a Buffalo could be seen
upon the plain. We hunted again all day, and in every direction,
without finding any thing, and encamped at night in the Mountains,
between where we were and Sweet Water. The third day, we
went about fifteen miles further to the South, and saw a band of
Buffaloes. We attempted to approach them; but they were so
wild, that we could not get within a mile of them, before they
would run. While following them, we saw an Indian, about half a
mile off, and galloped towards him. At first, he fled; but finding
that he could not escape, he stopped. When we came up, one of




24 - THE JOURNEY OUT,
our party, (a Trader, belonging to the Company then traveling
with us,) who understood his language, spoke to him. He was
very much frightened when he saw that we knew he was a Sioux,
expecting to be killed, on the spot, We asked him where his com-
pany were. He told us they were at a Lake, which was about
three miles distant, making meat, and that they were three hun-
dred in number. We turned to go away, when the Trader obser-
ved that we ought to kill him; but the rest of us objected, and
he was overruled. Turning again to speak to him, he said he
thought we had two hearts: one to kill him, and another to let him
go; and that he did not know how to talk to us: that he did
not know whether he should go under or not--(meaning that he
did not know whether we did or did not intend to kill him.) But
we turned away and left him, taking a straight course for the
Company, thinking it not very safe to be in the neighbor-
hood of three hundred Sioux. We put spurs to our horses, and
kept a good gait, until we considered that we were out of their
reach.
We arrived at our Company’s encampment that night, having
killed nothing. When we told them of our adventure with the
Sioux, all the Traders joined in exclaiming against us, for not
killing him. We plead that it was unmanly, and unfair, to
take the life even of the meanest enemy, under such circum-
stances; but they adopted the Indian argument, and said that
as we were among Indians, we must treat them as they treated
us; and so the white people, who live in the Mountains, act towards
their enemies.
On the evening of the 7th, we left the head of Sweet Water,
and in a few hours passed over the dividing ridge, through the
Grand Pass, and encamped by a marsh, which is one of the
sources of Green River, a tributary of the Colerado, of the Gulf
of California.
We slept here, on the great Backbone of North America,
where the sources of the Rivers which empty into the Oceans
which bound it, on the East and on the West, are only a few miles
apart.
The loſty summits of the Wind River Mountains, with their
wide fields of eternal snow, appeared to be almost beside us. We
had a heavy frost during the night, and in the morning, the water
in our camp kettles was covered with ice nearly one fourth
of an inch thick; and every thing that had been exposed tº

WITH ITS INCIDENTs. 25
the dew, which fell in the evening, was perfeatly glazed with
ice.
Both the ascent and descent, were so gradual, that, had we not
been told, we should have passed over the dividing ridge, in the
Rocky Mountains, without knowing it. The distance from our
crossing of the North Fork of the Platte, to the summit of the
Grand Pass, is one hundred and fifty four miles; and the Country
between, is a perfect desert.

CHAPTER [[.
THE JOURNEY OUT, witH IT'S INCIDENTs.
Trading House of Vasques and Bridger—Attacked by the Sioux—Soda Springs
—Deep Chasm and the Crater of an extinct Volcano—Fort Hall–Snake or
Lewis River, Falls, &c.—Snow Storm, and difficulty of starting fire—Indians
along Snake River—Numerous evidences of great Volcanic action in past
times–Fort Boise—Hills of Marble—Grand Round–Blue Mountains, &c.
—Whitman's Mission, on the Walawala–Fort Walawala—Columbia River,
Falls, &c.—-Cascade Mountains—-Wascopin Methodist Mission–Indian
Burying place–Fort Vancouver—Arrival at Oregon City, &c.
Having crossed the two Sandys, (branches of Green River,) on
the 10th of August we crossed the main stream, a large and beauti-
ful River; the water of which, unlike that on the opposite side of
the Mountains, is very clear. Having crossed several of the trib-
utaries of Green River, on the 13th we arrived at the Trading
House of Messrs. Vasques & Bridger. It had been attacked,
during their absence, by a band of Sioux; by whom the horse
guard, and two Snake Indians, had been killed, and a number of
horses driven off.
We remained here three days, and then went on to the Utah
Mountains, at the head of Bear River, to hunt Elk ; as our stock of
provisions was nearly exhausted. We made our camp at the foot
of the Mountain, where we remained ten days; during which time,
the Utah Indians came to us, to trade horses, skins, &c. We met
with but little success in hunting, and on the 28th started down the
River.
On the 1st of September, it rained, was quite cold, and the hills
were covered with snow. This day, we struck the trail of the
Oregon Company, and during the nights we had heavy frosts. The
valley of the River, is from one to eight miles wide. A large
portion of it has a good soil, and is covered with an excellent
grass. Flax grows spontaneously in this valley, and in considerable
quantities. The hills on either side, rise very high, and are
rugged and barren; and there are only a few Cotton Wood trees
scattered along the River. These streams abound with a fine Fish,
called the Mountain Trout. We found wild Goats, and large flocks

with 1ts INCIDENTs. 27
of Geese, Ducks and Cranes; but they had been so much hunted,
by the Emigrants, that it was almost impossible to kill any of
them.
On the 4th we came to where the valley appeared to terminate,
—the River turning short to the left, and making a breach through
the high range of hills on the West; but the general course of
Bear River is nearly North. Here we crossed over the hills, and
again came into the valley beyond.
On the 7th, we reached the Soda Springs. They are on the East
side of Bear River, and are scattered over a level space, about
equal, in extent, to one square mile; with a slight inclination to
the River, and elevated above it some fifteen feet. A large portion
of this level space is covered with a stinted growth of Pine and
Cedar. The earth is of various colors. In some places it is almost
perfectly white, and in others, quite red, &c. Above, below, and
on the opposite side of the River, the valley is rich, and covered
with fine grass. The Mountains, on the North and East, are bar-
ren; but on the West, they are covered with Pine. The Springs,
are deep pots in the earth, from one to fifteen feet across, and
generally without an outlet. The water appears to be originally
fresh, and seems to rise to a common level in all the Springs; and
in these pools, which have been probably made by strong jets of
the rising gass, it becomes highly charged. A slight hissing
sound, is occasioned by the escapement of the gass. The water,
in many of the Springs, where the surface exposed is small, is
cool, very pleasant, and has a fine, pure and lively acid.
About half a mile below, and immediately on the bank of the
River, there is a Spring where the water, (which is quite warm.)
at intervals of fifteen seconds, is thrown several feet in the air,
from the centre of a small conical rock, which it has formed about
it. A few feet from where the water escapes, there is a hole in
the rock, connected with the channel through which the water
passes, which inhales and exhales the air, like an animal breathing.
There are numbers of dried-up fountains, similar to this, back from
the River, hollow truncated cones, from three to thirty feet in diame-
ter. Several Springs rise in the bed of the River, the water of which
is quite warm. Every thing here has the appearance of recent
and powerful volcanic action, and doubtless the causes still exist, at
no very great distance.
Five miles below the Soda Springs, the River makes an acute
angle about a bold and lofty point, called the Sheep Rock, running

28 THE JOURNEY OUT,
away to the South West. Here, also, it seems to have made a
breach through the Mountain, into ancther valley. Formerly, the
Blackfeet Indians frequented this country; and, at this Rock, they
had repeated battles with the Mountaineers, and with other tribes
of Indians: and here the effects of their deadly encounters may
still be seen, in bleached skulls and scattered bones. At this point,
we left the River, and bore off to the right, across the valley, which
is about ten miles wide. This valley appears to have been sunk
several feet, and is full of chasms, from two to twenty feet wide,
and of unknown depths. Volcanic rock is scattered over it, in
large masses; and in many places, it appears to have been upheav-
ed from beneath. We passed, on the left, a large, hollow mound,
the crater of an extinguished Volcano.
It was late in the night before we reached the Western side of
the valley, and ſound wood and water for our camp. The water
upon which we encamped, was a branch of the Portneiff, a trib-
utary of Snake or Lewis River. We noticed, scattered over the
country, a kind of black volcanic glass, shaped like the fragments
of a broken bottle. Winding our way through the hills, by a
very circuitous route, on the 13th of September we arrived at Fort
Hall. It is situated on the South bank of Snake River, in a rich
valley, about twelve miles wide and twenty-five miles long, and
in latitude about 43 deg. 20 min. North. The Portneiff, Black
Foot, and many other small streams, run through this valley of Fort
Hall. The streams are lined with a fine growth of Cotton Wood
timber, and the entire valley abounds in excellent grass. The
Company keep several hundred cattle and horses, at this place,
which live through the winter, generally, without much atten-
tion. We were told by one of the members of the Company, that
wheat had been sown at the Fort, and grey well. Fort Hall is
built of the same material, and nearly in the same manner, as the
Forts on the Platte are. - -
Leaving Fort Hall, we traveled down the South bank of Snake
River, and a few miles below, we crossed the Portneiff, a beautiful
little stream emptying into it; and at eighteen miles, came to the
American Falls. Here, the River, compressed into about two thirds
of its usual width, runs down, over rugged volcanic rock, a descent
of about twenty-five feet in one hundred. The water is divided into
three different shoots, by two large rocks on the Falls. In the
middle shoot, there is scarcely any perpendicular fall; in the
other two, there is about ten feet. Below these Falls, for many miles,

WITH ITS INCIDENTS. º
the spurs of the Mountains, on the South side, run down to the
river, and the road over them, is, in many places, steep and rocky.
we crossed a number of small creeks, which run down from these
Mountains to the River; the water of which, is cool and clear-
Many of the hills, over which we passed, were covered with a
dwarfish growth of Cedar; and the Mountains on the South, with
Pine. The River, below the Falls, runs through a deep and nar-
row Canion; between black and rugged basaltic walls, and is little
else than a succession of Falls and Rapids.
The valley through which Snake River flows, is very wide,
elevated from one to three hundred feet above the stream; and
bounded, on the North and South, by parallel ranges of high
Mountains. Its surface is broken, and cut by deep ravines. It is
very sandy and barren, producing nothing but wild sage, and a few
scattering blades of short grass. In traveling through this valley,
it is necessay to obtain some directions, from those who are ac-
quainted with the way, since grass is seldom found, except on the
small streams.
A few days after our departure from Fort Hall, we left out camp
one morning, when, according to our bill of the route, we had a
long stretch ahead, before we would come to wood and water : the
clouds were floating heavily along the sides of the distant Moun-
tains; and the wind blowing in fitful gusts, made us tearful of an
approaching storm. But our scanty supply of provisions induced
us to proceed. We had not gone far, before the Heavens were
completely obscured by the clouds. The cold increased to severi-
ty, and the mingled rain and snow, began to fall very fast. The
dim trail, which led us over a high barren plain, became more and
more indistinct, from the accumulating snow. The distant Moun.
tains, already as white as the flakes that filled the air, gradually
faded in the stºrm; and the extent of vision lessened, as it in-
creased. We were drenched with the rain and snow, and chilled
and pinched with the cold; and in vain did we attempt to excite
warmth by walking: for, loaded down with wet garments, and
being accustomed to remain mostly on horseback, we were soon
fatigued with traveling, at a rapid rate, over the wet dust and sand,
and began to fall behind. We went on for some hours, the storm
still continuing; and the same gloomy prospect was still around
us. We were ignorant how long we should have to endure the
cold and fatigue, before we could reach some poor shelter; or
whether we might not entirely loose our obscure path, and be com.

30 THE JOURNEY OUT,
pelled to pass the night without shelter or fire. We began unani
mously to give expression to such fears, when we came suddenly
upon the river, at a small grove of Willow bushes, and hastened to
unload our animals and kindle fires. It was a long time before
we succeeded in producing fire from the flint and steel; but, after
many attempts, we at length obtained it, by sprinkling powder into
the crown of a hat, together with whatever dry combustibles we
could find, and discharging a pistol into it. To this we added the
dry Willows which we had collected, and soon had a comfortable
fire. We constructed frames of the green Willows, upon which we
spread our blankets; and in this manner sheltered ourselves in
some degree, from the snow and rain, which continued to fall during
most of the night. The weather, previous to this, had been quite
warm; and on the succeeding day, the clouds broke away, and it
was again pleasant.
Eighty three miles below the American Falls, there is another
tremendous perpendicular Fall in Snake River, over which the
Salmon are unable to pass. Thirty-nine miles farther down, we
saw, on the North side of the River, two very large Springs, burst-
ing midway from the lofty precipices, rushing down like rivers,
and foaming along over the piles of rock. They looked, at a dis-
tance, like banks of snow resting on the cliffs.
Seventeen miles below these Springs, are the Salmon Falls.
These Falls are not perpendicular, except in one or two small shoots,
on the North side. The great body of the water, runs down an in-
clination of not more than twenty-five feet in three hundred yards.
The river here is about one hundred and fifty yards wide, and
divided by an Island, commencing at the lower end of the inclina-
tion, and extending down one fourth of a mile. The Salmon pass
over the Falls with ease, when there is sufficient water on them.—
The surrounding country is very rough, broken, and entirely
destitute of both grass and wood. The hills are, from the water
in the River, about three hundred feet high. On the South side,
they are cut up by ravines; but on the North, they come bold and
unbroken, up within a few hundred yards of the water. There
is nothing very picturesque or wild about these Falls, compared
with the world of waste and wreck around them. The Indians
take immense quantities of Salmon here; which they cut into thin
slices, dry in the Sun, and afterwards pack them up, in grass cases.
The natives, along Snake River, live principally upon fish
and roots; and are the filthiest, most depraved, and degraded

with its incidents. 31
-
creatures, any where to be found among the dregs of human
nature. We have been told, that during the Salmon season, they
become as fat as penned pigs; and in the winter, so poor and
feeble, that they frequently die from actual starvation.
After leaving the Salmon Falls, we traveled down near the river,
our path frequently leading us along the sides of the almost per-
pendicular bluffs. Twenty-seven miles below the Salmon Falls,
we came to the crossing; where the companies, which preceded
us, had passed over to the North side, which is much the nearest
and best way; but we, having attempted the crossing and finding
it too deep, were obliged to continue down on the South. This is,
perhaps, the most rugged, desert, and dreary country, between the
Western borders of the United States, and the shores of the
Pacific. It is nothing else, than a wild, rocky, barren wilder-
mess, of wrecked and ruined Nature; a vast field of volcanic
desolation.
Beyond the Mountains, which rise on the South of this point, is
the great Salt Lake. Eighty-eight miles below the crossing of
Snake River, we crossed two small branches of hot water. This
region appears once to have been a high, level plain, which seems
to have been overflowed from the East, by a vast flood of lava. –
We were led to this conclusion, from noticing that the basaltic
layer, which covers the surface of the hills, (the summit of the
hills being nearly on the same level,) decreases in thickness, as we
proceed down the River, until it gives out entirely ; and the sandy
base, which composes the hills, seems to have given away to the
action of time, until these table hills are but the fragments of the
vast wreck. In these deserts we found the Horned Toad, and a
kind of Lizard, which is about eight inches in length, of a grºy-
ish color, slenderly proportioned, very swift, and apparently inof.
fensive.
Thirty-two miles below the Hot Branches, we crossed the
Owyhe River, traveled down it two miles, and came opposite Fort
Boisé, which is situated on the North side of Snake River, a
short distance below the confluence of the Owyhe ond Boisé; the
latter of which, comes in from the North. There is, on the Boisé
River, a great deal of Cotton Wood timber; from which circum-
stance, it takes its name. From the crossing, of Snake River, to
where it passes through the Blue Mountains, there seems to be no
Falls or dangerous Rapids. At Fort Bois, part of our company
*hich came from Fort Hall, in hopes of procuring provisions,

32 The journey out,
with the intention of going across into California, having obtained
sm all supply, and the best directions they could get concerning the
route, from Captain Payette, the principal at the Fort, (who appear.
ed to be friendly, and much of a gentleman,) left us, to travel
through a country, a large portion of which no white man had
ever visited. They were to follow the Malheur, a small stream
that empties into Snake River twelve miles below the Fort, to its
source, and to pass over the California Mountains, to the head waters
of the Sacramento. - *
. Leaving Fort Boisé, we traveled twelve miles, and crossed the
Malheur, where there are many Hot Springs, rising out of the
bank of the stream. Twenty-three miles from the Malheur, we
came to the Brulé or Burnt River, and traveled up it to its source,
leaving Snake River entirely. After striking the Brulé, the coun-
try gradually becomes less barren. We found on this stream, vast
hills of Marble. The road, through these hills, is very crooked
and rough. From the head of the Brulé, we came next to the
valley of Powder River. Here, the aspect of the country changes
rapidly. Leaving behind us the Sage and Sand, we find the hills
and Mountains covered with Pines, and the little valleys along the
Creeks and Rivers, with excellent grass. This valley is about ten
miles wide, and thirty miles long ; a large portion of which has a
good soil. It is encircled by hills and Mountains. -
Thirty-three miles from Powder River, we descend abruptly,
some three thousand feet, into the Grand Round; which is a level
plain, about ten miles wide, and twenty miles long, surrounded by
Mountains, and traversed by the Grand Round River, which comes
ń from the West, runs nearly to the middle of the plain in several
chºnnels, joins with another branch, bears away to the left and
leaves the plain at its Northern extremity, through a low gap.-
Numer ous small creeks and rivulets, run through all parts of the
valley, f, 9” the surrounding Mountains. There are some. Balm
trees on the River, and the Mountains are covered with Pine-
Much the largest portion of the soil is very rich, and the whole is
sovered with a superior quality of grass. From the Grand Round
we bore to the loft, and began the assent of the Blue Mountains.
It was long, but gradual. After reaching the summit, the road
was generally passable, excepting some deep raynes, which were
frequently very steep and rocky. A great portion ºf these Moun:
tains, are covered with dense forests of lofty pine. Those portions
... are destitute of timber, are generally covered with good

witH iTs INCupenTs. 33
grass, and a considerable portion of the soil appears to be fit for
º day, we left the Mountains and descended to the
Umatia or Utilla River, (generally called in that country, the
Utilla) in the valley of Walawala. From the brow of the
Mountain, we had a fine view of the Cascade range, fifty miles
distant, forming the Western boundary of the valley, stretching
far to the North and South, with its lofty peaks of eternal snow
rising among the clouds. The extent of the Walawala valley, is
not known; but it is probably three hundred miles long, with an
average width of about fifty miles. Its course, from and below the
junction of Snake River, is nearly South; above, it bends away to
the East. The Columbia River runs through it to the Dales;
where it leaves the valley, and breaks through the Cascade Moun-
tains. This valley, is elevated above the Columbia, from fifty to
five hundred feet, and is very uneven, dry, sandy, and entirely
unfit for cultivation, except along the base of the Mountains,
and immediately on the smaller streams which run through it; the
principal of which, are the Walawala, Umatila, Jºhn Days, and
De Chutes Rivers. Almost the whole of the valley, is covered
with a superior quality of grass; which springs up in the Fall, is
green through the Winter and Spring, becomes cured in the latter
part of Summer; and affords sufficient food for animals throughout
the year. It grows in detached bunches; the blades are eight or
nine inches long; and it is generally considered almost as nutritious
as grain. With the exception of a few Cotton Wood trees on some
of the streams, there is no timber in the valley ; but there is an
abundance on the neighboring Mountains. Lead has been found on
the Umatila; but not, as yet, in any considerable quantities. This
is the country of the Walawala Indians. They own a great many
horses; some of them have as many as two thousand—and they
are the finest Indian horses we have ever seen. * * -
Thirty miles from the Umatila, we came to Whitman's Mission,
situated on the Walawala River, twenty-five miles from its junc.
tion with the Columbia. The buildings are of unburnt brick, and
are neatly and comfortably finished. The Missionaries have a Mill,
and cultivate a small piece of ground. - - -
We were told by Mr. Spaulding, the Superintendent of the Mis-
sion on Clear Water, distant about one hundred and fifty miles
from Dr. Whitman's, and on the North side of Snake River; that,
in the * of his Mission, as far as he was acquainted
34 THE JOURNEY OUT,
with the country, it contained many rich valleys, of considerable
extent; and, from what we have been able to learn, from all the
different sources of information with which we have been favored,
it is our opinion, that that portion of country laying between Snake
River and the main branch of the Columbia, will in the course of
time, be inhabited by a civilized people; as it doubtless contains
some good valleys of land. The country of the Spokines, laying
on the Spokine River, is said to be good. That occupied by the
Cour De Lion and Calespell Indians, contains many Lakes and
Marshes. About Fort Colville, on the upper Columbia, the Hud-
son's Bay Company cultivate the soil, with good success, Snake
River, from where it leaves the Blue Mountains, to its junction,
is clear of Falls and Rapids.
From Dr. Whitman's Mission, we proceeded to Fort Walawala,
situated on the East bank of the Columbia, at the mouth of the
Walawala River. Here we disposed of our animals, procured
canoes from the Indians, and having obtained a pilot from them, we
cast our frail barks, on the waters of the Columbia. The River, up
and down from the Fort, as far as we could see, was broad and
smooth, and we promised ourselves an agreeable passage : but we
soon found that it was full of rocks, whirlpools, and dangerous
rapids; to follow through which, in safety, required the greatest
exertion, watchfulness, and care. Our minds were constantly filled
with anxiety and dread, and the wild manner in which our Savage
guide warned us of approaching danger, had no tendency to dispel
our unpleasant feelings. On the first day after leaving the Fort,
one of our canoes, in which there were three persons, one of whom
was a lady, in passing through a narrow shoot in the Grand Rapids,
struck a rock, upset, and filled instantly. The lady and her hus-
band succeeded in gaining the rock; which was about three feet
across the top, and just under the surface of the water. Our pilot
succeeded in taking them off in safety, and regained most of the
property. We passed on to what is called the Chutes, through
many dangerous Rapids; to have accomplished which, would have
been very impracticable, without skillful guidance. Here the
River is wide, full of large rocks standing out of the water, and
falls several feet. We were compelled to make a portage of nearly
a mile, over the rocks and sand, carrying our canoes and baggage
on our shoulders. Three miles below the Chutes, are the Little
Dales; where the River runs three hundred yards through a nar-
row channel, between high rocks. Here we made another portage


WITH ITS INCIDENTs. 35
of our baggage, and smallest conoe, and with some difficulty hired
the Indians to run the others through the rugged Canion. A few
miles further, and we came to the Great Dales; where we were
compelled to leave our smallest canoe, and again make a portage of
our baggage, a distance of one and a half miles, over the rocks,—
Here, the whole Columbia runs through a Canion not more than
seventy feet wide, whirling and boiling in a most furious manner,
running with terrible velocity, and chaſing against its rugged,
rocky walls; and it requires the most dexterous management,
which these wild navigators are masters of, to pass the dreadful
chasm in safety. A single stroke amiss, would be inevitable de-
struction. Three miles below the mouth of this Canion, and one
hundred and twenty-five miles below Fort Walawala, is the Wasco-
pin Methodist Mission, at this time under the superintendence of
Mr. Perkins, and situated half a mile from the South bank of the
River. They have a small Farm attached to the Mission, under
the superintendence of Mr. Brewer. Both this and the Mission
on the Walawala River, though they are well located, for the pur-
poses for which they are intended, and conducted, perhaps, accor-
ding to the best judgment of those who have charge of them; have
not yet, we believe, been productive of much, if any, good. Here
we were obliged to remain more than a day, on account of high
wind, by which we were detained several days on our passage to
the Cascade Falls. From the Mission to the Falls, a distance of
fifty miles, the River has scarcely any current. The Mountains
are high on either side, rocky, and in many places covered with
heavy forests of Pine; some of which, are at least ten feet in di-
ameter and three hundred feet high. A short distance below the
Mission, we found the stumps of trees, standing erect, in ten or
fifteen feet water, as if a dam had been thrown across the River,
and the water backed up over its natural shores. We asked the
Indians if they knew how these stumps came to occupy their pres-
ent position; but none of them were able to inform us. They
have a tradition among them, that long ago, the Columbia, in some
part, ran under the ground; and that, during an eruption of Mount
St. Helens, the bridge fell in. Some such circumstance as this, is
the only way possible, in which this anomaly can be accounted for,
unless Captain Fremont is correct, (which is certainly, extremely
doubtful,) in supposing them to be land slides. For they are
found no where below the Cascade Falls, although the character
of the River, and its shores, is, above and below these Falls,

36 THE JOURNEY OUT,
very much alike. They are found immediately above the Falls,
and as far up as the still, water extends; which lack of current
in the River, we consider to be the effect of some vast impediment,
having been thrown into it, at the Cascade Falls. The Falls
seem to be composed of large detached masses of rocks; which
circumstance also favors our opinion. A short distance below
the Wascopin Mission, and the Rapids of the Great Dales,
we found the first of these submerged stumps. They increas.
ed in number, as we descended the River; as is always the
case whereverthere has been an impediment, thrown into the chan-
nel of a stream, so as to raise the water over its natural shores.
Immediately above the Wascopin Mission, as we have before
noticed, and at least as far up as Fort Walawala, the River is
full of Falls and Rapids, and such also we believe to have been the
original character of the River below: where we find, at the pres-
ent time, these stumps, and an entire lack of current; as this
portion of it includes the breach through the Cascade Mountains,
the most rugged country, perhaps, through which the Columbia
flows. If these stumps and trees, (for many of them are still sixty
or seventy feet above the water in the River) had been brought
into their present position by land slides, as Captain Fremont
suggests, it seems to us, to be a matter of course, that the most
of those which were not throwh down by the motion, and agita:
tion, would have been found standing in various inclined positions;
but on the contrary, we find them nearly all standing erect.—
And again, what is highly improbable, the slides must all have
been very nearly simultaneous, as the trees are all, about in the
same state of preservation. The most of them stand opposite where
we considered the shores too gradual to admit of a slide. There
are many large nooks in the Mountains, along this part of the
River, which are suitable for small settlements.
| Fifty miles below the Mission we came to the Cascade Falls—
Here the River, compressed into two thirds of its usual width,
descends over huge rocks, several hundred yards, with an inclina-
tion of about five degrees; and from the head to the foot of the
Rapids, a distance of four miles, the water descends about fifty
feet. From the great agitation of the water, caused by its rushing
with such º, down its rocky channel, the surface of the
-- iver, for several hundred yards, is as white as a field of snow.—
5. the South, the dark basaltic walls, rising perpendicularly
four or five hundred feet, are covered with Pines. There are
it ºn . . . - - - - - - -

WITH ITS INCIDENTS. 37
small Islands of rock, both above and below the Falls; many of
which are timbered, and huge volcanic fragments cover either
shore. Here we were obliged to leave our canoes, and carry
our baggage nearly four miles, over rocks, and hills, to the
foot of the Rapids; where we found a bateau, which had been
brought up from the Fort, for the accommodation of the Emi-
grants. * .
We saw, while passing down, on the North side of the river,
a. large Indian burying place, where the bones of hundreds
were heaped together, in pens about eight feet square, made of
thin Cedar slabs, hewn and set upon end in the earth, covered with
bark, and ornamented with carved images of birds, beasts,
skeletons of men and imaginary monsters. Some of these pens
had rotted down, and the naked skeletons lay scattered over the
ground. We found in one, a body not yet decayed, wrapped in a
blanket, and laying upºn a board shelf.
The Falls afford one of the best Salmon fisheries in the Territo-
ry, and here the Indians take, in the Spring, great quantities of fish.
It rained on us during the night we were at the Falls, and, with
little intermission, during our passage to Vancouver. Below the
Falls on the South side, there is, for several miles, a perpendicular
rock bluff, rising from the water five hundred feet; over which
several small streams are pouring, in beautiful Cascades. The
Columbia is broad and deep from the Falls to the Ocean, and the
tide runs up to the foot of the Rapids. Twenty miles below the
Cascades, the River makes a sudden bend, about a high Mountain
point, colled Cape Horn. Immediately on the point, there are
several spires of solid rock, rising, like huge horns, out of the
water, from fifty to sixty feet high. Here we were met by a heavy
gale of wind, and compelled to run ashore, and remain until the
next day. This frequently happens to voyagers, on this part of
the River. In one instance, a crew of Emigrants were under the
necessity of throwing part of their loading overboard, in or-
der to gain the shore. A few miles below Cape Horn, the
highlands on the South side, recede from the River, leaving wide,
low bottoms; which generally overflow in the Spring. This
low land continues to widen, to the mouth of the Willammette, and
extends up that River about eight miles. In this part of the
Columbia, there are many low Islands.
After a very disagreeable passage, we landed at Fort Vancouver,
fºrty miles below the Cascade Falls. It is situated on the North
38 THE JOURNEY OUT,
side of the River, one hundred miles above its mouth. The
buildings occupied as stores, warehouses, shops, residences of the
agents, men, &c., make quite a village. The ground back, for
half a mile, is level; and then rises, with a gradual inclination,
until it is elevated several hundred feet above the River. It is
set with grass, and makes a very pretty appearance. Vessels
drawing fifteen feet water, ascend the Columbia this far, without
any difficulty. Vancouver is the principal depot of the Hudson's
Bay Fur Company, West of the Rocky Mountains. Their furs
are collected from all parts of the Territory, to this place, and
shipped once every year, to England; and the vessel returning,
brings, annually, a cargo of goods, to supply the trade. They
keep constantly on hand, one year's supply in advance, that if any
accident should happen to the vessel, either on her outward or
homeward bound passage, the trade might not be interrupted,—
The Company have some good farms, and several large herds of
cattle and hogs, in different places. They have an extensive
dairy, on Sophia's Island, at the mouth of the Willammette;
where they make, annually, several thousand pounds of butter
and cheese; which they send to Sitka, a Russian settlement, to the
North, with which the Hudson's Bay Company have also a con-
tract to ſurnish a large amount of wheat, yearly. In return for
which, they are to receive the Russian furs. They likewise furnish
the Sandwich Islands, with a considerable amount of flour, lumber,
spars, and fish; for which they receive, in return, the products
of those Southern Islands. The great design of this Company,
is to trade with the Indians, and take the beaver; but, aſter this
animal, so unfortunate on account of the rich dress which Provi-
dence has given it, as a shield against the cold of the North, had
become nearly extinct, in the lower valley of the Columbia; and
after the settlement of foreigners in the Sandwich Islands, and
citizens of the United States in Oregon, began to create markets,
they extended their operations, and began to cultivate the soil, to
raise cattle, to build mills, to furnish the settlers with articles of
merchandize, and to trade with foreign ports.
Having obtained a skiff at the Fort, belonging to Oregon City, we
went down the River six miles, to the upper mouth of the Willam-
mette. The lower mouth comes into the Columbia twenty miles
below, making Sophia's Island. The hills are very high on the
West side of the River; but rise gradually, and are covered with
dense forests of Pine. We had but little difficulty in ascending


with its INCIDENTs. 39
-
the Willammette, there being not much current until we came
within one and a half miles of the Falls, where we found a
strong Rapid, at the junction of the Clackamus; a small, but rapid
River, coming in from the East. Here we were obliged to get
out into the water, and draw our boat by a cord, several hundred
yards. -
Having passed these Rapids, we arrived, in a few minutes, at
Oregon City, situated at the Falls of the Willammette, the place
of our destination. This was the 13th of November, 1843, and
it was five months and nineteen days after we left Independence,
in Missouri. Here we were able to procure such things as were
really necessary to make us comfortable; and, what was most es-
pecially pleasing to us, an abundance of substantial food. We en-
joyed that plenty which, until now, we had long been strangers to:
and were happy, after along and tedious tour, over mountains and
deserts, through a wild and savage wilderness, to witness, upon
these distant shores, the home of Civilization : To see houses,
farms, mills, store-houses, shops; to hear the busy hum of indus-
try; the noise of the workman's hammer; the sound of the wood-
man's axe; the crash of the falling pines; and to enjoy the warm
welcome of countrymen and friends. How grateful these circum-
stances were to us, he who has never passed the bounds of Civili-
zation, or forsaken the parental roof, can never know. We had
been here but a short time, before the last of the Emigrants arrived.
They were soon scattered over the country. Those who intended
to cultivate the soil, laid claims, built cabins, and prepared for the
coming winter. Mechanics found employment at the Falls, and
those who had no particular occupation, or object in view, distrib-
uted themselves through the country, taking hold of whatever cir-
cumstances offered, or suited their inclinations best. All found
enough to do, and there was in the country, an abundance of the
real necessaries of life. Every one seemed satisfied, for a time,
with being permitted to have a home and a plentiful subsistence.—
And notwithstanding many were greatly exposed, during the winter
season, all were blessed with excellent health.
Our arrival had a great effect upon the country. The people
were beginning to feel lonesome, and to fear that it would be long
before these far distant wilds of Western America, would be settled.
Property was of doubtful value, and their once high anticipations
were fading away. They had heard reports from the Indians, of
the approach of a great number of white people; but the reports

40 THE JOURNEY OUT.
were disbelieved, and we were our own heralds; for, not until we
arrived, were they convinced of our coming. Instantly everything
revived; improvements went rapidly on, and the expectations of
the people were again excited. We found, at the Falls, a small
village of about one hundred inhabitants. Lots were laid out
on both sides of the River; those on the East side, by Dr. Mc-
Laughlin, Chief Factor of the Hudson's Bay Company, West of
the Mountains, and called Oregon City; those on the West, by H.
Burns, and Called Multnomah,

CHAPTER III.
DESCRIPTION OF WESTERN OREGON.
Winammette Falls, Mills, &c.—Description of the Willammette, Valley—
Head of the Willammette River—Calapooiah Mountains—Umqua Valley-
Umqua Mountains–Valley of Rogue's River—Clamuth of Chesty Valley-
Description of Country North of the Columbia-Mount St. Helens, an ac-
tive vºlcano–Numerous low Islands in the Columbia River–Astoria or
Fort George—Indians West of the Cascado Mountains—their method of
catching salmon–Government organized—Peopling of America and Pacific
Islands–Scenery in Oregon.
Great improvements were made in the little Town, at the Falls
of the Willammette, during our stay in the Country. There was,
at the Falls, when we left, a Saw and Grist Mill on one of the Rock
Islands, belonging to an American Company, styled the Oregon Mill-
ing Company, and on the main shore, two Saw Mills and a large Mer-
chant Flouring Mill, belonging to Dr. McLauglin, four Dry Goods
Stores, a school House, two Churches, & Public Library, a flour.
shing Literary Society, Law offices, Physicians, Shops, and Me-
chanics, of almost every description, and a population of about three
hundred persons. -
At the Falls, the Willammette precipitates down a per-
pendicular basaltic rock, thirty-three feet, and spreads out
as it approaches the precipice, into a broad sheet, at the Verge
of which it is nearly a half a mile wide. It is divided by two:
large Islands of rock, into three different shoots. The whole
descent of the water from the level surface above, to that below,
is about forty-five feet. The River for some distance above and
below the Falls, runs through a channel cut in the solid rock. On
the East side, extending down from the Falls several hundred
yards, and back from the water five hundred and fifty feet, there
is a perpendicular wall, one hundred and fifty feet high; further
down, the space between the hills and the River, increases in
width, until there is sufficient room for a town of considerable
size.
The Valley of the Willammette, which has generally been con.
sidered the best portion of Oregon, is situated on the south side
º

42 WILLAMMETTE WALLEY.
of the Columbia River, between the Cascade Mountains, a lofty
range running nearly parallel with the coast, at a distance from
it of about one hundred and twenty-five miles, and the Calapooiah
Mountains, a range of considerable height, which rise immediate-
ly on the coast, and extend along it so as to form an entire rock
bound shore. The Valley has an average width of about seventy-
five miles, and extends South one hundred and fifty miles. It is
traversed from South to North, by the Willammette River, a large
and beautiful stream, which is navigable to the Falls, within two
miles of which the tide reaches. The Falls overcome, and navi-
gation reaches fifty miles further up the River. This valley is
divided into several portions, by ranges of high lands running in
different directions, generally following the course of the streams.
The principal tributaries of the Willammette, are the Clackamus,
which rises in the Cascade Mountains and empties one and a half
miles below the Falls; the Twalita, which rises in the Calapooiah
Mountains, flows through the Twalita Plains, and empties two
miles above the Falls; and, eight miles above the Falls, the
Moolally or Pudding River, which rises in the Cascade Mountains
and empties into the Willammette, from the East: fifteen miles
above the Moolally, the Yamhill River, which empties from the
West; and above the Yamhill, the Sandy Yam, which empties
from the East. The streams emptying from either side, have
their sources in the bordering Mountains. On the lower Willam-
mette, the country near the River is broken, and covered with
dense forests of Pine. Further back from the River, it is diversi-
fied, with open woodland and groves of heavy timber; and still
further, there are beautiful plains, lying between the streams,
separated by belts of timber, and extending back to the Mountains.
On the upper Willammette, the country is more open and level,
and is diversified with groves aſ Oak, Pine, and Fir, and broad and
fertile plains, covered with luxuriant crops of grass. Above the
mouth of the Yamhill River, a range of hills commences, and
follows the Willammette River, continuing, gradually, to increase
in height, to its junction with the Columbia. From the mouth of
the Willammette, they follow the South bank of the Columbia,
within fifteen miles of the Ocean; thence they bear away to
the South, and join with the Calapooiah Mountains, at Cape
Look Out, twenty miles South of the Columbia; encircling
the Twalita plains, a cluster of small, but rich and beau-
tiful prairies, lying twenty miles West of the Falls of the Wil-

WILLAMMIETTE WALLEY. 43
lammette, being in extent, about equal to thirty miles square
and connected by the Shohalam Valley and Yamhill district, with
the upper Willammette. In the upper Willammette Valley, the
plains are more extensive, and in some places, there is a scarcity
of timber; but the soil is fine, and frequently we meet with small
spots of clover, growing wild, over many parts of the country-
Seventy-five miles above the mouth of the Sandy Yam, the Wil-
lammette Valley rapidly decreases in width, until it is nothing
more than a narrow defile, between the Mountains. No one has
ever traced the River to its source, and but little is known of it,
beyond the head of the Valley. It has generally been thought to
rise in Mount McLaughlin, one of the highest peaks in the Cascade
range, and it is so marked, on the best maps that have been made
of the country; but the information we have received, from the
Company which went across, from Fort Boisé to California, con-
vinces us to the contrary. They stated, that, after leaving the
waters of Snake River, and ascending a high Mountain, they
came upon an extensive level table land, which they supposed to be
about eighty miles across, having a good soil, and being diversified
with forest and plain; and that, having obtained an Indian pilot,
whose language they could not understand, it was with much diffi-
culty, they persuaded him, that they wished to go to the South West.
The Indian showing them a small stream, and pointing to the North
West, informed them that it led to a settlement of people, similar
to themselves, and they were convinced that their guide alluded to
the settlement on the Willammette, and that this was its source.
They finally succeeded in getting him to understand that they
were aware of the location of the settlement, to which he alluded,
and that they did not wish to go to it. After reflecting some time,
the Indian seemed to recollect, like a dream, of there being white
people to the South West, and accordingly conducted them to the
head waters of the Sacramento, which has its sources, as they
informed us, in the Southern part of this same table land.
The country on the Eastern side of the Willammette, is very
similar to that on the West, excpting that it is rather more level,
and not so high, or uneven, near the River, and is not separated
from the Columbia, by any high range of hills, as it is on the
Western side. There is an abundance of excellent timber in
this valley, the greatest portion of which is Fir. There are, also,
in different parts, considerable quantities of Oak, Pine, and Cedar;
and besides these, there is Hemlock, Yew, Balm, Maple, Alder

44 UMQUA VALLEY.
Laurel, Dogwood, Cherry, and Ash, with a great variety of shrubs,
and plants; and many such as we have never seen in any other
country. Besides the power at the Falls of the Willammette,
which is alone sufficient to propel an immense machinery, there is
a vast amount of the water power, in this valley ; at least entirely
sufficient, always to supply every want of the country. Besides
the Mills at the Falls, of which we have already made mention,
there are in the upper Willammette, a Grist and Saw Mill, belong-
ing to the Catholic Mission, and a Grist and Saw Mill, built by the
Methodist Mission, and another Saw Mill building by an individual.
In the Twalita plains, there is a Flouring Mill in operation, and a
Saw Mill in progress of building. Seven miles above Vancouver, the
Hudson's Bay Company have Saw and Grist Mills. Twenty five miles
above Astoria, and near the Columbia, there is an excellent Saw
Mill in operation, and on the Clatsop plains, there is a small Patent
Mill being set up for the accommodation of the settlers, at the
mouth of the River. The present population of the country, the
great portion of which is in the Willammette Valley, amounts to
about 6000 souls (exclusive of the Natives.) A portion of these are
English, French and half breeds; but a large majority are from the
United States, and have emigrated to this country over land, within
the last four years. Those who have come into the country, have
been industrious, and improvements have gone rapidly on. Quite
a considerable portion of the Willammette Valley, has already
been brought into cultivation, and there is, after supplying the in-
habitants, and emigration, annually, several thousand bushels of
surplus wheat. New farms are being opened daily, and the cabin
of the bold and enterprising pioneer, may be seen rising on many
a verdant hill, or nestled away in the quiet seclusion of many a
flowery nook; and ere long, the plow share and the axe promise
to turn this wild and flowery wilderness into rustling fields, and
blooming gardens.
The Valley of the Umqua is divided from that of the Willam-
mette by the Calapooiah Mountains, a single and almost unbroken
ridge, the course of which is nearly East and West. Across
these Mountains, which are not high, and the ascent and descent
of which are very gradual, is a distance of about twelve miles.—
They are thickly covered with good Fir timber, are not rocky, and
have a soil fit for cultivation. The Umqua Valley is about thirty
five miles wide, and its length is not certainly known. Its general
character is very similar to the Willammette Valley, excepting

UMQUA VALLEY. 45
that its surface is more undulating: The Umua River runs
through the middle of the Valley, recºlºng numerous tribu:
taries, from the neighboring Mountains. º * * sººn sufficiently
large for navigation; but the great rapidity of its current, wiłł
probably always prevent it from being useful ſo that purpose-
The Valley is diversified with woodland and Pºlº but the pral-
ries occupy the greater portion, the timber being principally along
the water courses and on the bordering Mountains. The prairies
have a good soil, and are covered with a most excellent kind of
grass. There is a great deal of fall in the smaller streams; and,
having their sources in the Mountains, they are constant, and afford
numerous fine water privileges. There is some granite in this
Valley; but the prevailing rock is basaltic. The Umqua Indians,
are quite numerous. They are not openly hostile to the whites;
but yet, it is not considered entirely safe, for a few persons to travel
through their country. No settlement has yet been made in the
Valley, and no person has yet visited it, except those pºssing
through, to or from California. The Hudson's Bay Company
have a Trading Post near the mouth of the River. Supplies are
taken to it over land, from Vancouver, on pack animals. There
is a small bay at the mouth of the Umqua, but the depth of water,
at the entrance, is sufficient only for small vessels. It affords a
tolerable harbor; but the intervening Mountains, extending along
the coast, separate the Valley from the Ocean, and the River pas-
sing through them, probably contains Falls, Rapids, and Canions,
that will prevent vessels from passing any considerable distance up
the River. This Valley, although it is separated by the surround-
ing Mountains, not only from all other portions of the country,
but also from the Sea-board; nevertheless, offers sufficient induce-
ments, to ensure its speedy settlement. The Calapooiah Moun-
tains are so gradual and unbroken, that a good waggon road
can easily be made across them, into the Willammette Valley, and
a rail road can be made, to connect it with the navigable waters of
the Willammette, whenever the necessities of the country require
it, and its wealth is sufficient to construct it.
South of the Valley of the Umqua, are the Umqua Mountains,
running nearly parallel with the Calapooiah Mountains, and
separating this Valley from the Valley of Rogue's River.--
The distance across them is fourteen miles. They are high, very
steep, and somewhat broken; but not rocky, and covered with
forests of Fir, so dense, that they entirely prevent the growth of
grass.
46 v.ALLEY of Rogue’s River.
South of this range is the Valley of Rogue's River, having the
same course with the Valley of the Umqua, and being about twen-
ty-five miles wide. Its general character is much like that of the
Umqua ; but it is more level, has a soil of a rather better quality,
and is also covered with good grass. On the North side, where
the California trail crosses the Valley, it is principally wooded; on
the South, Prairie. Immediately above, the proportion of prairie
and timber is very good. Here, as in the Umqua Valley, the tim-
ber is on the streams, and the prairies are between them. There
is, in the Valley, quite a considerable quantity of granite; but ba-
saltic is the most prevalent rock. The Valley appears to widen
above: its length is not known. It is traversed by Rogue's River;
a stream somewhat larger than the Umqua, and not so rapid but
that it might probably be made useful for transportation. Salmon
ascend the River in great numbers; and so do they indeed, most of the
streams throughout the whole territory of Oregon. Water power
is not wanting in the Valley of Rogue's River. A few miles be-
low the California trail, the River appears to enter a Canion, and
the Mountains along the coast are high and rugged; so as to pre-
vent advantageous communication with the Sea-board. The In-
dians who inhabit this Valley are numerous, and almost in a state
of nature. They are of small stature; but well proportioned—
slender, active, and sensible. They have never had any inter-
course, of consequence, with the whites, and have, therefore, but
few of the articles manufactured by a civilized people. From
their extreme hostility and treachery, and from the great amount
of damage they have done to the white man, they have been almost
universally called the Rascals. They seldom allow a company to
pass, without molestation. They attack from ambuscades, made in
defiles, chasms, and thickets. They have no fire arms; their prin-
cipal weapons being the bow an arrow. Their bows are made of
the wood of the Yew tree; short, and covered on the back with
the sinews from the loins of the Elk, which are fastened on with
glue, and neatly and securely wrapped at the ends with the same
material. Their arrows are feathered, and pointed with small.
delicate, uniform and very sharp heads of flint. These arrows
they shoot with great force and precision. They seldom have
horses, and if they take or kill an animal in their attacks,
(which they endeavor to do as much as to take the lives
of the men,) they afterwards cook and eat it, making a great
feast.


CLAMUTH, VALLEY. 47
South of the Rogue's River Valley, is the Chesty Mountain, a
single, and almost bald and barren ridge. To the right of the
California trail, it bears a little to the South, and interlocks with
the Mountains on the coast. The Northern base is covered with
timber; the summit and Southern side, in many places, with large
boulders of granite. The distance across is six miles. Going
towards the South, the ascent is gradual—the descent rather steep;
but a very good road might be made across, into the Clamuth or
Chesty Valley, which lies immediately South of the Chesty Moun-
tain, and has nearly the same course with the Valleys of the
Umqua and Rogue's River. This Valley of the Clamuth is about
thirty miles wide, where the California trail crosses it. It de-
creases in width below, and increases above. It is traversed by
the Clamuth River; a stream still larger than Rogue's River; but
full of rocks, rapids, and narrows; and passing through the Moun-
tains of the coast, it appears to run through a narrow Canion, aſ-
fording no outlet from the Valley to the Pacific. The soil of this
valley, is generally of a very inferior quality; but along the
streams, and at the foot of the Mountains, it is good. The rest is
a kind of dry, light, dusty and sandy land, producing but little
vegetation. The surface of the Valley, is generally quite level,
and a large portion of it is open. There are a few scattering
Oaks, in places through it, and some Pine; but the timber is, prin-
cipally, the Fir growing along at the base, and on the sides of the
Mountains. The Clamuth Indians are numerous, and quite hostile.
Their character and condition is much the same as that of the
Rascals. This Valley is situated near the parallel of 42 deg., and
we are not certain whether it is in Oregon, or California.
These Southern Valleys of Oregon, though in their present state
of nature, so lonely, so wild, and so secluded: though they now
threaten the travelers who pass, at intervals of years, with dan-
gers from the rugged mountain path, the swollen torrent, and the
savage arrow; though many a gloomy glen, and rocky gorge, and
dark and tangled wood, which have been stained with conflict, or
storied by some savage ambuscade, still stand to awaken terror in
the passer by ; yet, these Valleys, notwithstanding their wildness
and dangers, offer inducements, (deadly to the fated native.)
for which, ere long, the stronger hand of the white man will beat
back the present wild and implacable inhabitants, and make them
the homes of civilization. Each of these Valleys, is probably of
sufficient extent to make several large counties; and, but for their

48 COUNTRY NORTH OF THE COLUMBIA.
detached position, and their being so separated from the sea-board
as they are, or appear to be, they would doubtless be the most de-
sirable part of the Oregon Territory. The general fertility of
the soil, is favorable to the agriculturist; the richness of the
grasses, to the stock raiser; the vast beds and piles of stone, and
the broad forests of the giant Fir, to the mechanic; while the unfail-
ing abundance of water in the Rivers and creeks, pouring over
numerous falls and rapids, present inducements highly favorable to
the manufacturer. Occupying a position between where the Win-
ter rains of Oregon, and the Summer droughts of Colifornia, are
occasionally severe; they possess a climate, which, mingling these
two opposite evils, destroys them, and thus renders these secluded
Valleys, in this respect, the most desirable portion of these most
desirable climes. But they are so much as nature made them, and
so wild, that many portions of them have never been trodden by
the foot of the white man; and it may be, when time, and the bold
enterprise of our Western adventurers, shall develop, more fully,
the character and resources of these mountain-wrapped solitudes,
that there may be found a Pass, which nature has provided as a
way for commerce through her barriers; and from the sides of the
mountains, and from the bosom of the plains, may be drawn addi-
tional materials, to add to the necessaries and comforts of man, and
to aid the march of civilization. It is possible that this portion of
Oregon, will be acquired from the natives, in the same manner
that portions of the United States have already been acquired—by
force. And should it be so acquired, and when judgment comes
upon the conqueror for conquest, there will be none upon whom it
will fall more lightly : for there are no people who deserve more
justly, punishment for “all manner of wickedness,” than the na-
tives of the Rogue's River and Clamuth Valleys.
Not much attention has yet been paid to the North side of the
Columbia, by American settlers, owing to the uncertainty in regard
to the claims of the two Powers, that hold it in dispute; but not-
withstanding this uncertainty, a small settlement has been formed by
persons from the United States, about twenty miles above Vancou-
ver, on the North side of the River, in the conſident belief that the
United States Government would never relinquish any portion of
her just rights. In several respects it is superior to the South.
Immediately on the River, it affords many more, and better siuta-
tions for settlement. At the Falls of the Columbia, which must, in
time, become a place of some importance, the North side only,

country North of THE columbia. 49
tail be improved. As the navigation extends forty miles above
the Falls, and entirely through the Cascade Mountains, over which
a good road cannot probably be made; a canal around the Falls
will be a project which will deeply interest that whole country, as
it will probably be the only means to facilitate the intercourse, be-
tween the different portions of country lying above and below
the Cascade Mountains, and the ingress and egress from and to the
United States; and a canal can only be made, with any reasonable
expense, on the North side. The vast amount of water power
which the Falls will afford, can be rendered available with profit,
only on the North side. Cape Disappointment, which can be made
almost as impregnable as the Rock of Gibraltar, and which
entirely commands the entrance of the River, frowning down
on the channel which washes its base, is also on the North side.
Puget's Sound, which is cut by the parallel of 49 deg., and is
said to be surrounded by a very beautiful country, of considerable
extent; in point of spaciousness, safety and facility of access, is the
second harbor on the Western shores of America. The general
character of the country is similar to that on the South, excepting
that its valleys are not so large, and the mountainous and hilly por-
tions, occupy a greater extent. Like the Valley of Willammette,
the Valleys on the North side of the Columbia, are diversified with
forest and plain. There is little or no difference in the soil, and
the grass is equally fine. On the streams that empty into the
Columbia, and their tributaries, there are many Falls and Cas-
cades; which afford excellent sites for machinery, to an almost un-
limited extent. On the Cawlitz, which is the largest falling into
the Columbia from the North, below the Cascade Mountains, the
Hudson's Bay Company have a Saw Mill, and there is, at the same
place, a small French settlement, which has been connected with
them; but their term of service having expired, they were per-
mitted by the Company to remain in the country, (the contract of
the Company with them is to return them at the expiration of their
term of service, to their own countries. This is done in order to
prevent competition.) They are engaged in agriculture, and fur.
mish, annually, several thousand bushels of wheat, to supply the
Russian contract. Their wheat is boated down the Cawlitz, in
bateaus; but the rapidity of the stream, renders the navigation
difficult and tedious. This settlement is fifty miles above the
mouth of the stream. The valley, here, is not half so large as
that of the Willammette; but it is, nevertheless, entirely sufficient
7

50 COLUMBIA RIVER–SHORES-ISLANDS.
to accommodate quite large settlements. There are many other
smaller streams, emptying into the Columbia from the North ; on
all of which there are Valleys back from the River. The timber
is more abundant on the North, and of rather a better quality.
Twenty-five miles North from Vancouver, and about opposite
the mouth of the Willammette, Mount St. Helens, a lofty snow
capped Volcano rises from the plain, and is now burning. Fre-
quently, the huge columns of black smoke may be seen, suddenly
bursting from its crater, at the distance of thirty or forty miles.—
The crater is on the South side, below the summit. The Cawlitz
River has its source in Mount St. Helens.
On the Columbia, in most places, the hills, which are generally
high, frequently steep and broken, and covered with dense forests,
come in on both sides, close to the water; leaving only small bot-
toms in the bends of the stream. Some of these bottoms, however,
are large enough for several good farms. On the North side, for
many miles above and below Vancouver, the bottoms are of con-
siderable width. The hills are low, and rise gradually back, for
some miles, affording room for large settlements. At the mouth of
the Columbia, on the South side, is the Clatsop plain, extending
along the coast; and from a mere point, at the Southern extremi-
ty, it increases in width, until it reaches the River, where it is
about five miles wide. This plain is very sandy, and produces fine
garden vegetables; but is fit for little else. It has probably been
made by the deposites of the Columbia, thrown back by the
waves of the Ocean. It is traversed by several sand ridges, like
waves, running exactly parallel with the coast. As the Columbia
approaches its mouth, it widens out ito broad bays; which, ex-
cepting a single channel, are full of shallows and sand bars;
many of which are entirely bare at low tide.
About twenty miles above Astoria, there is a large cluster of
low Islands, called the Catalammet Islands, several miles in extent;
which are covered with Cotton Wood and Willows, and are over-
flowed by high tide. They are several hundred in number, and
are separated by as many shallow channels; some of which, are
as wide as the main channel: and into which, persons who were
not acquainted with the River, have frequently run, and have been
lost among the shallows for many hours. A few miles below these
Islands, on the North side, there is a singular Rock, standing im-
mediately in the channel, and rising above high water about twen-
ty feet. It appears, at a distance, like an artificial Pillar, and has

ASTORIA-MOUTH OF THE RIVER-BAR. 51
been called Pillar Rock. A few miles below this Pillar, the River
is fifteen miles wide; and the channel, leaving the North side,
bears across in nearly a straight line, to Tongue Point, which is
several hundred feet high, extending out into the River, in the
shape of a tongue, about half a mile; and commandidg, most
perfectly, the channel which washes its base.
Astoria, situated on the South side of the Columbia, twelve miles
above its mouth, is generally known as being the first place which
was settled on that River. It contains only a few houses, and is
occupied as a Trading Post, by the Hudson's Bay Company, and
now called by them Fort George. Some of the hearth stones of
the old Trading House of Mr. Astor, may still be seen. This will
probably eventually be the principal commercial place in Oregon;
as it is the best situation between Tongue Point and the mouth of
River, and as there are on the bar, at Tongue Point, only three
fathoms water, while on the bar at the mouth there are
five. The River, at the mouth, is four miles wide, and the en-
trance is obstructed by a large bar, upon which the waves of the
Ocean, (excepting in the channel,) break with great violence.—
The flying sheets of foam may be seen from Astoria, and the roar-
ing may be heard for a much greater distance. The point of land
on the South is low and sandy, and is called Point Adams; that on
the North, is a high, perpendicular rock, and as heretofore said, is
called Cape Disappointment. The channel comes around close to
the foot of the rock, so that it has entire command of that en-
trance of the River. Since the wreck of the Peacock upon these
breakers, this entrance has been considered by many, in the States,
as extremely dangerous; but not so with those who are acquainted
with the channel. All admit, however, that it is necessary to have
a fair wind, and weather sufficiently clear to observe the land
marks, to avoid danger, as the channel is narrow. With these,
together with a correct knowledge of the place, we doubt not but
that a thousand vessels, were they sailed by men of skill and judg-
ment, might enter the mouth of the Columbia, and not one be lost.
In the case of the Peacock; it is said, that the Captain mistook
the bar for the channel, and struck before he discovered his mis.
take. We believe that strongly constructed and powerful tow
boats, directed by experienced pilots, would overcome this obstruc.
tion as effectually, as the same means do that at the mouth of the
Mississippi. When vessels have accomplished an entrance, they
find a safe harbor, and good anchorage, in Baker's Bay, just within

52 SOUTHERN COAST-FILATHEAD INDIANs.
Cape Disappointment; and farther up, above, below, and opposite
Astoria—in the main Channel of the River. The bad character
which the mouth of the Columbia gained, by the unfortunate acci-
dent which happened to Lieutenant Wilkes, then Commander of
the United States Exploring Squadron, in the Pacific, has since af.
fected, materially, and deeply, the prosperity of that infant Colony .
and not the Colony alone, but also the interests of the numerous
Whalers, which are, in every direction, in every latitude and lon-
gitude, constantly traversing the broad bosom of this Ocean of
Oceans; since it has certainly been the great cause, to discourage
an intercourse, which would otherwise have been commenced, and
carried on, to the great advantage of both. This character,
which has been and still is so extremely detrimental, is, in a great
degree, unmerited and incorrect.
The coast South, from Cape Look Out, (twenty miles South of
the mouth of the Columbia,) to the Umqua, is generally rugged
and mountainous. There are some small Valleys, on the inter-
mediate streams; but none of sufficient extent to demand at-
tention. At Cape Look Out, which is a lofty and frowning rock,
extending into the sea, there are extensive sands, and a vast rock
rising out of the water, called Kilamoox Head; upon which, when
the wind is high from the West, the Ocean waves dash and break
in such fury, that the roaring may be distinctly heard in the Wil-
lammette Valley.
The Indians, West of the Cascade Mountains, are divided into
numerous small bands, and many of them without any acknowl-
edged head. There were once, on the waters of the Columbia,
the Willammette, and along the shores of the Ocean, powerful
tribes; but pestilence and disease, since the coming of the white
man, have swept them rapidly away; until but a few, poor, wretch-
ed, degraded beings, beyond the reach of charity, remain. Once
Chenamus, a proud, intelligent, and influential Chief, of the Chen-
ooks, held sway over all the tribes, between the shores of the Pa-
cific and the Cascades, and between the Umqua and Puget's Sound;
and extended his influence beyond the Mountains. But, aſter his
death, his place was never filled: and now, the bones of his peo-
ple, are scattered upon the rocks and hills, and their dwelling pla-
ces, are their graves. The bones of hundreds, perhaps thousands,
lay heaped up promiscuously, together. And every isolated rock
that rises out of the Columbia, is covered with the canoes of the
dead. They are nearly all gone, and disease is still sweeping the

C4IARACTER AND MANNER OF LIVING. 53
miserable remnant away; so that, in a few more years, there will
not be a single red man west of the Cascades, on the waters of
the Columbia.
The Indians of this lower country, are generally smaller,
and not so well formed as the generality of tho Natives of
America. They have but few horses, travel mostly in their canoes,
and live upon fish, fowls, and roots. Their houses are construct-
ed of slabs split out of Cedar, hewn. and set upon end, around a
frame of poles, and covered with bark. The Indians are very
filthy in their habits, and almost destitute of clothing. The stench
arising from the filth about their villages, in the fishing season, is
almost insupportable. They are superior water-men, manage their
canoes with the greatest dexterity, and are very expert in fishing.
On the Columbia, they fish with seins, (such as are used in the
United States.) At the Falls, they build scaffolds, out from the
rocks, near to the falling water, and use a sort of dip net, fastened
on a long staff. They use spears, where a sein cannot be drawn;
and in the night, they fish with hooks fastened on a pole, which
they immerse deep into the water, and when they feel any thing
touch the pole, they jerk it up quickly and generally bring out a fish.
This mode of fishing is practiced only during the season in which
the Salmon are ascending the streams, and immediatly below some
great waterfall, where they collect in immense numbers. All the
fish that are exported from Oregon, are caught by the ladians.
Their canoes are the finest we ever saw ; they are made of the
large white Cedar, hewn out with great labor. They are construc-
ted with a high bow and stern, which are separate from the main
vessel, and so neatly put on, that the joints will not admit water.—
They are very light, and the edges are ornamented with Sea shells.
These people are also ingenious in the manufacture of mats of
rushes, and hats and baskets of grass. Some of their baskets are
water tight, and many of them are ornamented with devices of
beasts, birds, and flowers, worked in various colors. The religion
of these Indians, is much the same as that of the other tribes of
America. They believe in one Superior Presiding Influence,
which they call the Great High Chief. They believe also,
in an Evil Spirit, and in numerous inferior Spirits, both good and
evil, which inhabit the earth and air, and are invisible, or as-
sume the form of smoke or vapor: the evil Spirits afflicting
mankind with misſortunes, disease and death. They also believe
in the Spiritualization of beasts, birds and fish, and even of their

54 RELIGIOUS OPINIONS, RITES, &C.
clothes, ornaments, canoes, tools, implements of war, &c.; of
fruits, flowers, and numerous other inanimate things; and we are
inclined to the belief that they extend this Spiritualization, to all
organized bodies. It is on account of this opinion, that they
bury their dead in their canoes, with many of the articles which
belonged to them, while living—such as arms, clothing, ornaments,
&c.—and furnish them with a supply of food, which they suppose
sufficient to last them to the Spirit Land. For the same reason, a
horse, or a dog, is frequently butchered beside the grave of a hunter.
The Spirits of all of which things, according to their opinion,
will be required for their comfort and subsistence, when they
themselves have come to be disembodied Spirits. They are in
many respects, very superstitious: One instance of which is shown,
in the removal of a large stone which lay in the way of some
men who were taking saw-logs into the River, a mile below Oregon
City. The workmen were about to remove it, when they were
forbidden by some of the Indians, and told that it was once a man,
and if they removed it, the River would rise up to it. They, how-
ever, removed it; and it happened, that soon after, the River rose
higher than it had ever been known; which accidental circumstance,
was attributed by them to the removal of the stone, and of course,
strengthened their superstition. They have what they term
Medicine-men, in whom they place great confidence, and suppose
that they possess the power, by means of charms, to counteract
the influence of evil Spirits, and to drive them away. They are
called to exercise their charms in every case of sickness. They
blow their breath upon the body, rub it, and press upon the stomach.
After continuing this for some time, they pretented to have drawn
something from the patient; they press it in their hands, and ap-
pear to hold it with the greatest difficulty; immerse it in the water,
and continue alternately to rub and immerse it, until the
evil Spirit is overpowered. Then, holding the clenched hands
above the head, several loud shouts are uttered in as frightful a
manner as they are able. They then open their fingers gradual-
ly, to allow the terrified Scocum, (evil spirit) to make his escape
—blow through their hands—continue to utter fearful cries, and
to make threatening gestures—until they have driven the agent
of evil, entirely away. They go through the same operation,
until they have drawn the last little devil from the body of the
patient, and driven it away. All the time these incantations are
going on, a number of persons sitting in a row beside the sick,

GAMING-MARRIAGE-CONDITION. 55
chanting their savage song, beat constantly and loudly with sticks
upon a large dry board. These Medicine-men are supposed to be
invulnerable, and lead the van to battle. They frequently exhibit
proofs of their magic powers, at their dances and celebrations, by
holding live coals of fire between their fingers, for several minutes
at a time. They are held accountable for the success of anything
which they undertake, and if a person dies in their hands, or if
they loose an engagement, they are tried for their lives. When a
Chief, or member of a Chief's family, or other notable person dies,
they are placed in their canoes, with their blankets, arms and other
implements, which they used while living; hung to the bough of a
tree, or placed upon a rock, and a favorite horse, and sometimes
several slaves, are killed, to bear the soul of the dead to the
world of Spirits. Slavery exists in the lower country.
These Indians are great gamblers, and they have several games,
the form of which we are not able correctly to describe. They
play until all their property is gone, and then frequently gamble
off their bodies, part at a time, until the whole is lost, and they
are slaves for life. Marriage, among the Indians, is rather a mer-
cenary transaction, than otherwise. It is true, perhaps, that there
is a choice in some instances; but generally, whoever pays the
highest price, takes the woman. Poligamy is universally prac-
ticed, and some of the Chiefs have as many as ten wives. The
wealth of an individual, is estimated frequently, by the number of
his wives. The women here, as well as with all other barbarous
tribes and nations, do all the hard labor ; hunting, fishing and war,
being the only duties of the man. But the Indians between the
Umqua and Puget's Sound, are at this time any thing else but war-
like. The time no doubt has been, when they were ; but they
have degenerated as fast as they have decereased in numbers, until
they have, in every sense of the terms, become inactive and fee-
ble. Perhaps no where on the great American Continent, on either
side of the Isthmus of Panama, has their intercourse with the
white man been more ruinous to them, than it has here. It is,
however, no less strange than true and deplorable, that wherever
the white man has had intercourse with the Indian, almost without
an exception, it has tended both morally and physically to degrade,
sink, and destroy him. The different tribes, differ from each other
very much, in their language. They have not a great many
words, and almost every one is uttered with a strong gutteral sound.
They count to ten, and afterwards, by tens and hundreds. These

56 MISRAMING-SINGULAR customſ,
are the Flathead Indians, and we believe the only Tribe that prac.
tice this singular custom, upon the Continent of America, or upon
the surface of the globe. How it has happened that the name has
been given to a Tribe inhabiting the country upon the upper part
of that branch of the Columbia, commonly known in the States
by the name of Clarke's River, and separated, by several hundred
miles, from the only people who are known to have ever practiced this
custom, we are unable to imagine. Some ignorance and mistake,
however, have thus widely misplaced the name: and instead of hav.
ing given it to those whose most unnatural fancy would have rendered
it highly appropriate, they have wrongly designated by it, a people
whose heads are as round as our own. The same error has like-
wise been committed, in giving to a Tribe inhabiting a country on
the North side of Snake River, the name of Nez Pierce, to whom
the custom of piercing the nose is not at all peculiar; but which
is practiced extensively by the Tribes along the coast; all of
whom, are separated from these, who bear the name, by a distance
of two or three hundred miles; and between whom the lofty, range
of the Cascade Mountains, (which intervenes,) admits but little
intercourse. The custom of piercing the nose, for the purpose of
wearing in it, shells, quills, rings, &c., is practiced somewhat, by
all the aboriginal inhabitants of America. But with the Tribes,
inhabiting these shores of the Pacific, it has been almost universal,
and is still so with some. With those, however, who have had
much intercourse with the whites, this, together with the custom of
flattening the head, is beginning to be less observed.
The custom of flattening the head, originated, probably, in the
idea, that it was unbecoming the dignity of a master, to wear the
same appearance as the slave; and as garbs and insignia were
perishable, or subject to be wrested from them, it seems that they
determined to put on different, and, of course, as they were supe-
rior, more beautiful heads. And perhaps the circumstance, that
their slaves were to accompany them, and serve them in another
world—the land of spirits—was considered by them an additional
reason, why they should imprint indelibly, even on their very ex-
istence, asure indication, and record of their own superiority: lest,
perchance the master might be mistaken for the slave, and to the
slave might be awarded the privileges of the master : lest the
proud master, who, in this world, was accustomed to grant his ser-
vant life, or bid him die, might, by mistake, in Heaven be com-
pelled, himself, to suffer and to serve; might be compelled to dig

its ºnop ABLE origin. 57
the Spirit-roots, and gather spirit-berries, from the bogs and briers
of heaven; and to bare around the Portages or paddle along the
Rivers, the ghost of his own, nobleman's canoe, for a vile slave :
lest, in the fair land of spirits, his free-born shade might be, through
mistake, compelled to bare sºch like ignoble spirit burthens, and
toil, and sweat, and tremble, at the will of a vile creature of the
Great High Chief of Spirits, whom he before had been accustom-
ed to command : Lest such misfortunes might come upon him,
by the too great natural resemblance, between himself and his
slave, it is probable that he was more strongly induced to lay aside
the servile-looking head, which silly natºre gave him, and put on
a more beautiful one of his own wise fashioning. If this be not
correct, it is at least surely very much in the character of than ;
and if it be, it is not confined to the Flatheads, alone, nor is it pecu-
liar to the ignorant and uncultivated barbarian. The actions of
civilized and enlightened barbaritºns, speak with the same import.
This operation of flattening the head, is performed when the child
is very young while the cranium is yet soft, and somewhat plia-
ble. It nevertheless requires a long time to complete it, it must
be effected very gradually, and the pressure must be continued
upon the skull, until it has acquired a degree of hardness, sufficient
to retain the shape which has been given. The object is to press
back the forehead; which, when the operatiºn is completed, is gen.
erally about parallel with the nose. In effecting this, the back
part of the head is also somewhat compressed. This object is
accomplished by binding a small board, or any other hard plane
substance, closely upon the forehead; so as to press in the required
direction. The child itself islashed to a board, in such a manner,
as to favor the securing of the flattening plane, in the necessary
position, and to prevent the child from strangling. This operation,
although so unnatural, so confining, and affecting an organ so deli-
ºte as the brain; and though performed upon such tender years,
does not, however, appear to produce pain. Mortality does
not appear to be greater among the Flathead children
than among the adults, in comparison with that of othed
Indian Tribes. Neither does the ſattening of the head appear, in
the least degree, to affect the mind. Slaves, born among them,
whose heads are not flattened, are the same, in every respect, per-
taining to the mind, as far as it is possible to determine. In dispo.
sition, passion, intellect, and in their whole character, as far as
different individuals are alike, they are aſke But it is probe.
o -
58 CLIMATE or wesºurin or Egos.
ble that this practice will soon become extinct, if not from
the abandonment of the custom, at least from the extinction of the
l'ace.
In the climate of Western Oregon, we find one of the principal
advantages which this country, together with the whole Western
coast of the Continent, possesses over those portions laying East
of the great mountain range, which, extending from within the
Arctic circle, along the whole extent of North and South America,
to Cape Horn, divides the Continent into two Grand Divisions, diſ.
ferent, not only in their geographical features, but also in climate
and vegetation. The climate of Western Oregon is milder by
several degrees, than it is between the same parallels of latitude in
the States. Snow seldom falls in the Valleys South of the Colum-
bia, and during our stay at the Falls of the Willammette, which
embraced two Winter seasons, there were only two falls of snow ;
(with equal and perhaps greater propriety, we might call that
portion of the year included between the first or middle of Novem-
ber, and the last of March, the rainy season :) the first of these
snows was six or eight inches deep, and remained upon the ground
about three days; the second, which continued to fall at intervals,
during a week, passed away almost as fast as it fell, never conceal-
ing, entirely, the surface of the ground. During the period of our
stay, we never saw ice on any of the streams of water; yet, it
has been stated that since the location of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany at Fort Vancouver, the Columbia River has been twice closed
over at that place. If this be a fact, it must be owing, in a great
measure, to the circumstance that the Columbia has its sources in
far Northern latitudes, and in high mountainous regions. On the
Willammette which flows from the South, such congelation has
never been known. We were informed by persons, long resident
in the country, that rains were very frequent through the Winter
or rainy season, but that great quantities seldom fell in short times.
During the first Winter we were in the country, there were several
weeks together, of fine, clear, and most delightful weather, and
besides this, several other shorter periods of cessation; but during
the second, it rained almost constantly, yet so light were these
rains, generally, that in order to convey correct ideas, propriety
would seem to demand some other term to designate them. Taking
the two seasons together, which we experienced there, we doubt
whether a greater quantity of water fell than falls generally in
the same length of time, during the same months in the States.—


CLIMATE OF WESTERN OREGON. 59
Many have expressed objections to the climate, on account of the
rainy seasons, and it cannot be denied that they frequently render
iſ quite disagreeable and gloomy, especially to those who have just
emigrated to the country. Yet most persons do their accustomed
business at this season, whether it be in or out of doors, without
seeming to experience any great inconvenience, or suffering detri-
ment to their health. Southern winds prevail in the Willammette
Valley, at this season, and when they change to the North they
are usually succeeded by fine, clear weather. At the same time,
however, they prevail from the East or change to the West on the
Columbia, showing their course is effected very much, by the hills
and mountains. The clouds float low in the Winter, and frequent-
ly huge masses of them, as if influenced by attraction, cling to the
sides of the hills and mountains, until as they move along, they are
torn by the tops of the tall Firs. We saw once as we were laying
becamed on the Columbia, in the dusk of the evening, the clouds
descend from the mountain ravines, and settle down, for a while,
so near the surface of the broad river, that the Islands with which
it was there interspersed, and portions of the neighboring shores
which were covered with groups of tall trees, penetrated with their
tops, above the cloud. Their seeming to be much elevated, togeth-
er with the regularity of the upper surface of the cloud, awakened
the idea of a beautiful little Archipelago, with all its Islands, float-
ing in the air. The grass is green and growing throughout the
Winter, and cattle and other animals keep in good condition, with-
out any attention or feeding whatever, and we have frequently
eaten excellent beef, killed from the grass at this season. In the
Summer, there is probably not so much rain, as in the United
States; but it is entirely sufficient to perfect the crops of grain,
which, except Indian Corn, are more abundant, and surer, than in
the United States. The temperature at this season, is near the
the same that it is in the same latitude East of the Mountains, ex-
cept the nights, which are quite cool during the whole year; so
that a person may sleep in mid summer, comfortably under a pair
of blankets. These cool nights are doubtles injurious to the
growth of Indian Corn, which does not flourish and produce abun-
dantly in this country. The sky, through the Summer, is usu-
ally clear, and on the plains, a gentle breeze is generally blow-
ing from the sea; which renders the Summers remarkably agree.
able and healthy. The natural vegetation of the country, is all of
a giant growth. We have spoken of the Fir's attaining to the

60 CLIMATE OF THE MIDDLE PORTION.
height of three hundred feet; many others, of the smaller kinds
of vegetation, are in the same proportion. We have seen the com-
mon Elder growing from six to twelve inches in diameter, and the
Hazle very commonly from four to six inches. There are several
different kinds of wild fruit in the country, which are not found
in the United States, and several which are, though it is not more
abundant here than in the States. The cultivated fruits common
in the States, such as the apple, peach, and pear, appear to come to
perſection; though but little attention has yet been paid to grafting
and cultivation ; consequently, there is but little fruit of a good
quality. The grape, although not a native of Oregon, and not
found ºny where West of the Rocky Mountains, and North of 42
deg., in a wild state, having been planted at Vancouver, is said to
produce well. The wheat grown in Oregon is of a very superior
quality: the grain is larger, fuller, heavier, and in every way finer,
than that grown in the States. The quantity produced, with the
sºme cultivation, on the same extent of ground, we also think, is
something more; but the difference is greater in quality, than in
quantity. The varieties of forest trees are not great; the Pine, Fir,
White Cedar, Hemlock, and Oak, being the principal. There are
also, some Maple, Ash, Alder, Dogwood, and Cherry, found along
the watercourses. Thunder is seldom heard West of the Cascade
Mountains, and storms and heavy winds are not prevalent. The
Territory of Oregon has with great propriety been considered in
three divisions. These divisions are natural and strongly marked,
not only by the mountain ranges which separate them, but also, by
difference in soil and climate, and of course by different degrees
of productiveness, and by a different general appearance. That
portion of the Territory lying between these mountain ranges,
(the Cascade gnd Blue Mountains,) is, under the above division, the
middle portion, but is generally known in that country under the
name of the Walawala Valley. Under this name we have previous-
ly noticgd it, and thus we will designate this division, wherever it
comes, in the course of our remarks. The climate of the Wala-
wala Valley differs from that of Western Oregon, in being much
dryer and somewhat colder. It appears strange that between two
portions of country situated in the same latitude, and separated
only by a range of mountains, the difference of climate should be
so marked. We will not pretend to account for this difference,
but will suggest that the elevation of the Walawala Valley above
the Valleys of Western Oregon, together with the circumstance of

cL, MATE OF THE MIDI}LE PORTION. & C. 64
its being much farther from the Ocean, and separated from its in-
fluence, by a vary lofty range of mountains, might make the diſ-
ference. This climate, together with the dry and sandy character
of the greater portion of the soil, and the richness of the grasses
which they produce, renders this portion of Oregon, above all oth-
ers highly ſavorable to grazing; and it is in our opinion, especially
adapted, on these accounts, to the raising of sheep. As we have
before remarked, the grass springs up here also, in Autumn, and is
green, and frequently growing, through the Winter: so that animals
require no other food. The almost entire absence of timber in
the Walawala Valley, is attributable to the dry and sandy nature,
and to the insufficiency of the soil. The few Cotton Wood and Wil-
low trees which line the margins of some of streams and Rivers, and
the Pines which grow at the base of the Mountains, is all the timber
which the Valley affords. Where the soil along the streams and near
the mountains is rich; the climate ſovors the production of wheat,
rye, oats, &c.; the common garden vegetables; and is supposed to
be more congenial to the growth of Indian corn, than that of Wes-
tern Oregon. Corn has been grown for some years, in small
quantities, at Dr. Whitman's Mission, and some of the Walawala
Indians have been induced to cultivate small patches of it. But
the ears we saw were small, and the quantity produced has also
been small; and we are confident of our correctness in saying, that
there is no portion of Oregon in which this grain can be profitably
produced. The climate of the Walawala Valley, and every thing
else connected with it; the dryness of its soil, the purity of its
waters, and the vicinity of snow covered peaks, are certainly highly
fauorable to health ; and in proof of its healthfulness, we have the
testimony of those who have resided in it as Traders, or Missiona-
ries, for a number of years; and not only the testimony of words,
but also of appearance. -
The remaining portion of the Territory of Oregon—the Eas.
tern portion-we have sufficiently noticed, in passing through it.
Very much the largest portion of Eastern Oregon, is at present,
and must continue for a great number of years, to be, comparative-
ly valueless. It is a desert, so rugged, so dreary, and so exceeding-
ly sterile, that it cannot, until ages upon ages have melted its moun-
tains; until the winds, and floods, and changes of thousands and thou-
sands of years, shall have crumbled into dust, its rocks, and its
sands; yield anything worthy of consideration, to the support of
human life. There are, however, some beautiful exceptions to

62 HEALTH FULNESS, &c.- Gover NMENT.
this general character; bright and blooming valleys, walled with
mountains, and surrounded by wastes; which, contrasting so widely
with every thing about them, are regarded by the lonely traveler, as
being, not only wildly romantic, but surpassingly beautiful. These
however, are rare. The traveler through that dreary region,
will climb to the summit of many a barren height, and tra-
verse many a sun scorched plain, ere the green Oasis glads his
eyes.
Those who have emigrated to the country, have had uncommon-
ly good health. Notwithstanding the great exposures which the
Emigrations of 1843 and 1844, were necessarily subjected to, in ma-
king, and after having made, a long and toilsome journey through a
wild, and desert wilderness; in preparing shelters from the rains,
and obtaining the means of subsistance; there were ſewer instan-
ces of sickness in either, than is common among a like number of
people, in the most healthy portions of the United States. But to
describe the climate of Oregon, with the greatest exactness, in the
fewest words, is, we think, to compare it with France; which
laying between precisely the same parallels of latitude, and occu-
pying exactly the same position, on the Eastern Continent, that Ore-
gon does on the Western, boasts a climate which has long since and
universally been acknowledged, one of the finest on the Globe. —
The situation of Oregon, in regard to commerce, every one who
knows any thing about the geography of the world, is already
acquainted with. Its location is convenient to all the shores and Is-
lands of the Pacific, the Western portions of South America; and as
all the numerous groups of Islands in the great Pacific Ocean, are
ready of access; they will furnish much for profitable commerce,
as they lie mostly in the tropics.
The people who have emigrated to Oregon, have organized a
Government, deeming it right and necessary, situated as they were,
in an Indian country, and so far removed from the influence of any
law; not only as a means of personal safety from the natives, if
they were disposed to be hostile; but also, for the protection of life
and property, against evil-doers among themselves; and for the
distribution of equal justice in all their intercourse with each other.
This Government, however, is intended only to be temporary, and
subject to the disposition of the Government of the United States,
whenever she extends her jurisdiction over the Territory. The
people of Oregon, generally, have no disposition to set up an inde-
pendent government; but on the contrary, they are exceedingly

TEMPORARY GOVERNMENT. 63
anxious to be taken into the care and under the protection of the
United States. They expect to receive grants from the govern-
ment, and under this expectation, they have all located land claims
of a section each ; and these claims are of course respected and
protected by the existing provisionary government. This gov-
ernment was organized in 1843, and previous to the arrival of our
Emigration. The citizens met in Convention, and elected an Ex-
ecutive Committee of three, which had the powers of a Governor,
a Legislative Committee of nine, a Judge, Recorder, Treasurer,
Sheriff, four Justices of Peace, and as many Constables. Military
Officers were also elected, and several companies of Militia organ-
ized. They made a short code of written Laws, defining the du-
ties and powers of the different officers, and adopted the Laws of Iowa
so far as they would apply to their condition. They regulated the
taking of land claims, determining who might hold claims, and de-
fining what steps should be necessary, in order that persons might
be secure in the possession of lands. They limited these land
claims by the same authority by which they laid them, (Senator
Lynn's Bill,) to six hundred and forty acres, and made any person
ſaying two claims, liable to loose either. In order to hold a claim,
they made it necessary that the corners of the land, should be
marked ; and that a description of it should be entered upon the
books of the Territorial Recorder; and the temporary govern-
ment agreed to protect these land claims against all other claim-
ants, except the United States of America. The Missionaries re-
siding in the Willammette valley, who took an active part in the
organization; besides the claims allowed them as individuals,
succeeded in obtaining, in the name of the Mission, thirty six
square miles; and in the best portion of the Willammette Valley.
The succeeding Legislature, however, disregarded it; and all ex-
cept the usual claim allowed to individuals, was liable to be taken
by any one who might wish it. This government was extended
over all the country between the parallels of 42 deg. and 54 deg.
40 min. North latitude, and West of the Rocky Mountains to the
Pacific Ocean; and made a residence of six months necessary to
Citizenship. The second Legislature, elected by order of the
Executive Committee, made a Law, prohibiting the making and
sellingardent spirits, in the Territory, except for Medical purpo-
ses; and likewise, a Law prohibiting the residence of negroes in
the country, after the expiration of three years; and levied a tax
upon the people, for the construction of roads, and the defraying

64 GOVERNIIENT——SPECULATIONS
of expenses unavoidable, in the transaction of the Government. .
They have endeavored to protect the rights of the Indians, and
promote peace and harmony between them and the settlers; and
no disturbance of a genral nature has ever occurred between
them; and an Indian war, in all probability, will never interrupt
the tranquility of the Willammette Valley. The temporary gove
ernment is acknowledged and supported by the great majority of
of the people, and is constantly gaining strength and character.--
None of the members of the Hudson's Bay Company took an
active part in the organization of this Government; yet
we believe that Dr. McLaughlin was present at the Convention.--
Since, however, many of those persons whom the Hudson's Bay
Company have settled in the country, have been induced, by the
influence of members of the Company, to vote at elections.—
Many of the individuals connected with the Company, among
whom is Dr. McLaughlin himself, have preferred to avail them:
selves of the benefit of the Laws, to become subject to them, and
to pay the taxes levied by the begislative Committee. One of the
officers of the Hudson's Bay Company was appointed by the Exec-
utive, to the office of Treasurer of the temporary Government, and
he accepted and served in that capacity. But little difficulty has
yet occurred in its administration, and only two instances of resis-
tance against the Laws; in both of which, the authorities were suc-
cessful, and order was maintained. Private difficulties have but
seldom occurred, and there is more harmony in society than we
have ever known or heard of, in any other part of the world.-
This happy circumstance is attributed principally, to the general
absence of intoxicating liquors; which is a state of things unpre-
cedented in the settlement of a new country, and speaks loudly in
favor of the moral character of the people of Oregon. -
Many speculations have been indulged in, since the first discov-
ery of America, much research made, and many opinions offered as
to the manner in which it became peopled. We have, in the course
of our travels, become acquainted with some facts which may pos”
sibly throw light upon this subject. It may be, that the facts which
have induced us to form our opinion, have been given to the pub-
lic by others, and long since ; but if they have, as we have never
seen them, we beg leave to throw our opinion into the scale. The
most commonly received opinion, is, we believe, that the first inhab-
itants came across from the Northern part of Asia, at Berring's
Straits, where the distance between the shores of the two Conti-

coxcrºRNING THE ORIGIN OF THE ABORIGINEs. 65.
ments is but short. This opinion, though it is very plausible, and
in fact, probable, as regards America, cannot account for the peo-
pling of many of the Islands in the Pacific Ocean, far removed
from the shores of either Continent. It is our opinion, that the
Western shores, iſ not the Continent of America, and all the in-
habited Islands of the Pacific, have been peopled from China and
Japan. It is now known, with as much certainty, as are any exis-
tences or transactions, of which we have been informed, by an-
cient history, that the Chinese Empire has been in existence, that
its people have been in many respects enlightened, and that records
have been made and kept by them, for severalthousand years past.
They had vessels in which they went to sea, but not having an
extensive knowledge of navigation, they never ventured far from
land; it however, sometimes happened, that they were blown off
to a great distance, at sea, became lost and bewildered, and were
left to the mercy of the wind and waves; in this condition, we be-
lieve that these lost vessels have been driven and cast upon the
shores of our Continent, and upon the inhabited Islands of the
Pacific, where the people who thus saved themselves, have increas:
ed, and made the aborigines of this Continent, and those Islands:
and that being discouraged by the improbability of their ever re-
gaining their native country, and destitute of all their accustomed
means of improvement, they have descended, in the course of
ages, into their present state of barbarism. None can object to
this theory, on account of the diversity of features, complexion, and
languages, who hold that the human race have descended from one
common parentage; since, time and circumstances may have
wrought a chanage in this case, as well as in that. The circum-
stances which lead us to this opinion are these : about fifty years ago,
as we were informed, by different gentlemen, connected with the
Hudson's Bay Fur Company, and previous to their establishment
in that country, a Japanese Junk was cast upon the North West
coast of Oregon; the people who saved themselves from the wreck
were taken, and enslaved by the Indians, and were found among
them, by the Company’s Traders, in that condition. They endeav-
ored to purchase them from their masters, but were unable to ob-
tain them at any reasonable price. The Company, after the expi-
ration of several years, found it necessary to employ a steamer, to
collect their furs, on this coast; and instructed the master, upon
its arrival, to obtain, if possible, the Japanese slaves. The Indians,
whose villages were near the Sea shore, were at the time of the
9

66 PEOPLING OF AMERICA.
Steamer's arrival on that coast, many of them, out in their canoes,
some distance from land. As soon as they perceived her, they fled
for the shore, and the steamer persuing, so terrified them, that
they not only abandoned their canoes, but their villages also, and
fled en masse, to the mountains, leaving not only the Japanese, but
every thing else behind them. The Japanese were taken on board
the steamer, conveyed to Fort Vancouver, and sent from there to
London, whence they were carried on board an East Indiaman, to
their native country. And beside this, there are the remains of a
wreck, near Cape Look Out, at which the Indians have frequently
collected beeswax, which was thrown out on the beach, by the surf;
and it is the general impression, that this also, was a Japanese or
Chinese vessel. The Indians have some strange and mysterious
traditions, concerning this wreck; but we were not able to learn
any thing definite from them, concerning its character, or the
time of its destruction; but it is evidently many years since it was
lost. We know of no account of the loss of any such vessel, from
any of the Commercial nations of the world, and it is, at least,
probable, that this also, was driven from the shores of the Eastern
Continent; and if this were the case, here then, are two instances,
in which people have been cast upon the Western shores of Ameri-
ca, from China or Japan, perhaps from both; two instances, by
which, had the Continent been at those times without inhabitants,
it would, or might have been peopled. And since the Chinese Em-
pire has been in existence so long, and since they have been,
in many respects, so long enlightened, why may not this have
happened, thousands as well as fifty or an hundred years ago;
and why may it not have happened, before this Continent
was inhabited, and they have been the Parents of the present
aborigines?
The scenery in Oregon, is varied, romantic, picturesque, and
grand. There is certainly nothing to equal it, in North America,
East of the Rocky Mountains; and, although much has been said
of the beauty and grandeur of the scenery of Switzerland, we
doubt if any thing can be there found to equalit; taking into view,
the rich, extensive, and flowery plains, surrounded by tall and
heavy forests, of ever-green, watered by many large and living
streams, flowing sometimes smooth and gentle, then rapid, and
again precipitating, in broad, and heavy sheets, down immense per-
pendicular Falls. There may be, some where on the earth's whole
surface, some spot which can equal in the mighty grandness of its

SCENERY OF OREGON. 67
scenery, the mountains, the valleys, and the shores of Oregon; but
if there be, 'tis vast, 'tis beautiful, 'tis grand indeed. Let the be-
holder, stand upon the green summit of one of the high isolated
hills, that rise from the plain in the upper Willammette, and what
a prospect! The imagination that has been accustomed only to the
level surface, and dull monotony of the Valley of the Mississippi,
must be stretched to its utmost to comprehend the mighty picture."
The fair Valley of the Willammette, with its hills, and its vales,
its forets, and its plains, is spread out before you. To the East, and
extending as far as the eye can reach to the North and South, the
Cascades, in one lofty, unbroken range, rise mountain upon moun-
tain, and forest over forest, until their highest peaks, wrapped in
eternal snow, and white as the unsullied flake in the storm of Win-
ter, stand high and giddy, far above the clouds. At your feet you
can see the Willammette, meandering down the wide fertile Valley,
and can trace afar, the course of the broad Columbia, winding
through its forest-crested hills; and further away to the North, St.
Helens shows her towering crater of eternal fire; and further
still, the eye is lost in the wide labrynth of dark and clustering
heights, in distance indistinct. Away to the South, the peering
summits of some lofty chain, are dimly drawn upon the sky. To
the West, you hear the distant Ocean's sullen roar, as its waves,
with crash tremendous, break upon its rock bound shores. The
bright clear blue above is cloudless; all beneath, seems hushed in
deep repose; even the loud Cataract's thunders, wake not so far the
circling waves of air; and save, perchance, the carol of a moun-
tain bird, the breeze sighing to the leaves, and the heavy murmuring
of the distant deep, all else is silent, as it was upon the morn, when
God created it. Here may the imagination lift the veil which hides the
future, and peer into the destinies of this fair land: As it runs over the
wide prospect, it peoples it with thousands and thousands of busy
inhabitants, sees every plain checkered with fields, and even the
steep and rugged Mountain-side, made to yield to the hand of the
husbandman; every where, houses, gardens, orchards, and vin.
yards, scattered in countless, multitudes, over hill and valley; flocks
and herds feeding, on every hand : - ior sº nº
the valley, or ºn. .." . º:
-> * -> a busy
concourse, all moving hurriedly to and fro, engaged in the avoca-
tions of a civilized life; sees villages, towns, and cities, with mas-
sive walls and glittering spires, which have risen above the moul.
dered huts of a departed race. It looks forward to the time when,

68 IMAGINATIVE VIEW OF ITS FUTURE CONDITION.
where now the Indian, upon his jaded horse, is winding along the
narrow and solitary trail, the powerful locomotive, with its heavy
train, will fly along the rattling railway ; when, instead of yon
frail canoe, the pround steamer will dash along the majestic river;
when that Ocean, now idly breaking on its cragged shores, shall
be whitened with the sails of Commerce; and when, amid the flags of
an hundred nations, its own proud motto and device, resting on folds
gemmed with images, whose bright orignals bestud her skies, shall
float proudly superior to them all; when, where now, there is little
else than a wild wilderness, there shall be all the life—all the popu-
lous throng and bustle—all the stately magnificence—all the inter-
ests—all the enterprise—all the intelligence—of the most active,
proud, and populous nations of the Old World. Imagination,
peering into the far future, beholds enthroned upon an hundred
heights, the lordly mansions of the opulent, surrounded with gar-
dens, teeming with fruits and flowers; with parks, and pools, and
groves of ornamental trees; and far up the sides of the surrounding
mountains, the herdsmen’s and the shepherd's humble cottages re-
pose, in sweet and solitary quiet, deep buried amid the mountain
pines. And still, yielding to a more romantic mood, the imagina-
tion, excited by every thing about it, and by its own wild pictures,
cannot but come, in its dreamy wanderings, to the time when these
mountains—these rivers—these verdant vales, when every rock,
and hill, and cataract; when every forest, glade, and glen; when
every mountain gorge, and precipice, and dark ravine, shall have
been sung and storied, until they have grown old and honored by the
Poet's pen, and the thrilling legends of the past. But, looking be-
yond the snow capped barrier, which bounds the vission, to the
East, the mind labors in vain to read, from the character of such
dreary regions, what will be the future destiny of those wilds and
wastes. Long may the lover of romantic scenes and adventures,
find in them an ample scope for all his inclinations. Long may the
Poet and writer of fiction, undetected, rear there, the fabricks of their
dreams, and people the green mountain-girt Oasis of those unex-
plored solitudes, with the gallant, lovely, and happy creatures of
their imaginations. About these, hang mysteries, which time and
the baseless stories of the fanciful, will probably render only more
mysterious. In these, may rest at last, the remnant of the ancient
owners of this great Continent; and here, in a semi-civilized con-
dition, they may continue, the wonder and the terror of ages yet
to be. In such a land as this, it is easy to suppose that the minds of

REFLECTIONS-A REVIEW. 69
its future inhabitants, partaking of the characters of the things
around them, will rise in splendor, like their own cloud-piercing
peaks; or flow, in majesty, like their broad, majestic Rivers.
And while beholding here, a prospect, which he feels that nature
herself, in her farthest reachings, in her most sublime imaginings,
could not improve; to which, though she would scatter with un-
sparing hand, upon one favored spot, all beauty and all grandeur,
she could not add one single touch; while taking, at one vast
sweep, such an assemblage of grand various and scenery: and while
indulging such ſanciful images of the future, the traveler, reclining,
perhaps, upon the green sward which clothes the rounded height,
from its base to its brow; and beneath the green arms of a low
and spreading oak, might revert, amid such silence, and such scenes,
to the far land of his home, and recall to his mind others, though
less grand and beautiful, yet even dearer than these ; might yield
to a feeling of regret, when hearing here, the loud Ocean's voice,
and seeing yonder, the stern mountain barrier, mingling its snows
with cloud and sky; both separating him from that home, and from
those cherished scenes.
But to conclude this portion of our subject, by summing up, in
short, the advantages and disadvantages, which the Territory of
Oregon possesses, incomparison with other countries, or rather, with
portions of the United States. We suppose its principal advantages,
for instance, over the Valley of the Mississippi, to be, in climate,
in its situation for Commerce, in its water power, in its forest of
gigantic trees, in the purity of its waters, and in the vastness and
beauty of its scenery. In all of these, it is certainly superior. —
In tespect to its climate, the rainy seasons, it is true, are often
disagreeable; but its being favorable to grazing, and most espe-
cially, its great healthfulness, renders it very far superior to that
of any portion of the States. Its situation for profitable Commerce
with other portions of the world, we consider, to be superior also,
to that of the Valley of the Mississippi. The vast extent of Sea-
coast, embracing every clime; and the numerous fertile Islands,
with which the great Pacific Ocean is crowded, to which it has
immediate access, render it superior. And the circumstance, that
almost all the commercial and manufacturing nations of the world,
are compelled to make great circuits, in order to reach these
shores, gives another advantage worthy of consideration. Its water
power, we believe, cannot be surpassed on the face of the globe;
neither can its forests, or the purity of its streams. Its principal
70 REVIEW.
disadvantages, (excepting that of the Winter rains) are the limit.
ed extent of the habitable portion, the great amount of wasteland;
included even in that portion; the different parts of it, which are
suitable for settlements, being detached, by ranges of mountains,
making access from one to another, often difficult; the rock-bound
character of its coast; the inferiority of its inland navigation; and
of the soil of the high lands. In all of these, it is surely inferior
to the Mississppi Valley. But after balancing the advantages and
disadvantages, we cannot determine which is, in reality, superior.
Different men have different opinions. One will prefer one coun-
try, and another will preſer another country; one will chose the
fertile Valley of the Mississippi; another the healthful climate, and
the romantic scenery of Oregon.


CHAPTER IV.
ROUTE FROM OREGON TO CALIFORNIA.
-
Rendezvous—Indian War Dance–Indians came into Camp to trade-Ad-
venture of an Iroquois Indian–An Alarm–Sugar Pine–Soda Spring—Sac-
ramento River—Sacramento Hills—Rugged Road–Indians on the Sacra-
mento–Fort, Trading Post, &c., of Captain Sutter.
We left the rendezvous near the Methodist Mission, on the Up-
per Willammette, on the 18th day of June, 1844, for Upper Cali-
fornia. Our Company consisted of thirty-seven persons; of which
number, thirteen were women and children; the rest were made
up of Americans, English, French, Mexicans, and Indians of four
different tribes. We took our baggage, entirely with pack ani-
mals, as the route will admit of being traveled in no other way-
Proceeding up the Willammette River ninety miles, near to
the point where it comes out of the mountains, we left it, and
bearing off across the Valley, at ten miles, came to the Calapooiah
Mountains; and passed over them, a distance of twelve miles,
with ease, into the Valley of the Umqua, Passing across it by a
very circuitous way, which characterizes the whole route to Cali-
fornia, we came, at sixty miles, to the foot of the Umqua Moun-
tains, and encamped by a small, clear mountain stream, which ran
hurriedly along, through a beautiful and extensive incli-
nation, thickly set with a fine green sward; and over which,
here and there, the dark green Pines arose to the height of two
hundred feet.
Late in the evening, about twenty of the Umqua Indians, came
into our Camp. At night, several of them, being induced by a
half breed Frenchman, of our party, who was always fond of
witnessing and participating in all the games and amusements of
his savage brethren, performed one of their War Dances. After
equipping and painting themselves, in the most hedious manner
which their imaginations, almost perfect in such savage arts, could
possibly invent: Having their bows and arrows in their hands,
72 INDIAN WAR DANCE-
with all their implements of war about them; and being arranged in a
row, on one side of the Camp ſites; while we, who were looking
on, occupied the other; they began dancing; singing, at the
same time, in the wildest and most fiend-like strain; making the
most hedious grimaces, and every variety of threatening gesture :
sometimes throwing into their countenances a most intense gaze,
and with lowering brows, and eyes directed along their arrows, as
if riveted upon some fated object, upon which they were about to
spring, and transfix with a deadly weapon; they would suddenly
bend their bows to the very arrow's head, as if in the act of shoot-
ing a foe; then, recovering, with a dreadful smile of savage satis-
faction, they would floursh their arms about their heads, and throw
into their song a tone offendish triumph, such as would compel the
stoutest nerves to cringe. During the dance, one of the number,
who appeared to act the Chief, and to be bound to excel in the ter-
rible, crouched to one half his natural stature, facing the rest, and
if possible more hediously arrayed, kept moving by a short, quick,
patting step, from one end of the line to the other. At intervals,
when they appeared to have finished one part, they would all straigh-
ten themselves up, to their full height, and utter several loud,
shrill, piercing yells, which thrilled through the forest, and was
echoed back from every tree, and the distant hills, as iſ a host had
answered; then again, they would commence the dancing and sing-
ing, as before, varying it with the same wild grimaces and gestures,
and again conclude with the same loud, thrilling yells; until, after
performing in this manner, several times, they wound up by a
sham attack. This they did, by holding the bow in their left
hand, and grasping the arrow on the string with the right, (as is
usual with them :) resting the right hand on the hip; drawing the
bow with all their strength; throwing themselves forward and
back, and bending their bodies, until their heads almost touched
the ground; and all the time they were springing about, in every
direction, as if avoiding the missiles of the foe, and yelling at the
very top of their voices, with more than mortal fierceness. Du-
ring this performance of the Indians, the Camp fires burning
bright, lighted up the surrounding forest to a considerable distance.
showing the tall green pines, and leaving all beyond, (though the
moon was high,) in deep dense darkness; giving to the wild scene
so wildly acted, in those far savage solitudes, additional wildness;
so far surpassing what we commonly consider to belong to nature
and reality, that one seemed to dream; and standing in Tartarian
shades, to gaze upon the regions of the damned.


Rogue's River in DIANs. 73
in the morning, we commenced the ascent of the Umqua Moun-
tains, which, being covered with thick timber and brush, was con-
sidered as a place favorable to the Indians for an attack; and as
we were approaching the territory of the hostile Rascals, (a tribe
of Indians frequently so called) who previously never allowed a
favorable opportunity for an attack to pass unimproved, there was
much uneasiness in camp, and preparations were made to prevent
a surprise. Front, flank, and rear guards were kept out, while the
party were moving, and some of the braves put on their defensive
armor, in the shape of extra shirts, pants, vests, coats, and over
coats, to ward off the arrows of the ambushed Rascals. We, how-
ever, passed over the mountain, a distance of fourteen miles, with-
out seeing or hearing from the Indians, and came into the Valley
of Rogue's River. At the crossing of the River, thirty of the
Rascals came into camp, for the purpose of opening a trade. They
were, at first, very shy in approaching us. When within two hun-
dred yards, they halted; and waited sometime, regarding us closely,
in order to ascertain, from our movements, whether we were disposed
to be friends or foes. After repeatedly assuring them of our friend-
ship, and persuading them a long time, they at length came very
slowly and cautiously within twenty yards of us, and took their
seats in a row, on the ground. In all their movements, and in ev-
ery expression of their countenances, nothing could be detected
that indicated fear, although it was certain, that they were far
from being destitute of such sensations; they held such complete
command over their nerves, and knew so well how to dissemble
that all appeared to be nothing more than caution. Having pre-
pared a pipe and tobacco, several of our party arranged themselves
in a circle with the Indians, and smoked, passing the pipe around
to the left, from one to another. This is a mark of friendship,
and amounts to a treaty of peace. After smoking and asking our
permission to depart, which is a custom among the Indians, in the
place of our “Good night,” they retired, promising to return. In
the morning, they came again to our encampment, bringing with
them quite a number of beaver skins; which they exchanged
with different individuals of our company, for such trifling articles
as they pleased to give them.
Having passed across the Valley of Rogue's River, a distance
of fifty miles, we came to the Chesty Mountains. Here, the trail,
taking a narrow spur of the Mountain, on either side of which,
there was a small ravine full of think brush, gave the Indians a ſa-
10

74 AN ALARM.
vorable opportunity for making an attack; and, as we knew of their
having before attacked Companies at this place, and doing considera-
ble damage; here again, we used the previous precaution, of putting
out the necessary guards; and the braves again put on their armour,
and again we passed in safety the dangerous mountain, and cros-
sed over into the valley beyond, a distance of only six miles, with-
out encountering any difficulty. Having crossed the Northern side
of the Valley, and also the Clamuth River, we encamped early in the
evening, at a small spring, three miles beyond the River, and thir-
teen from the foot of the Chesty Mountains. Here an Iroquois
Indian of our Company, having returned from a hunting excur-
sion, reported that, while hunting, he came suddenly upon a small
Indian camp; and being perceived by the Indians, he went boldly
in, as if his coming had been intentional. This scheme, of course,
gave the Indians to believe that he considered, from some cause,
perhaps the vicinity of a strong party, that he had no reason to be
afraid. It worked well, and he returned without being molested,
having noticed, as he said, several horses in the Indian camp.–
Upon hearing this last part of the story, three of our party, an
American, a Frenchman, and a half breed, named Petitoo, set out,
against the protest of the whole camp, declaring that they would have
the horses. Night came on, and all had retired to bed, when the
Indian yell was raised within a few hundred yards; and every one
supposing that the party had been killed by the Indians, and that
they were coming upon the camp, sprang to their arms, and hasten-
ed to meet what they supposed to be an enemy. It proved, however,
to be the three themselves, who in their wild and unwarrantable
glee, breaking over all custom, and acknowledged laws of order
and propriety, wished, for mere sport, to put the camp in a panic.
They came charging up at full speed, and Petitoo, who was the
ring-leader in the affair, to make a sort of “grand flourish,” put
whip and spur to his jaded horse, already scarcely able to proceed
and coming into the staking ground at a rapid rate, was about to
rein up before the crowd, who had rushed out to meet “the Indians,”
and was just crying out, with a swaggering air, “Caraho pinda-
ho!” a favorite Spanish exclamation, when his horse, tangled in
one of the staking ropes, ſell; and, turning a complete somerset,
went tumbling after his rider, who was hastening, in spite of him:
self, by several successive and astonishing ſeats of “grand and lofty
tumbling,” to the bottom of the hill, amid the peals of laughter and
cursings, thatburst from the still half-terrified camp. After hav.

SUGAR PINE-SODA SPRING, &c. 75
ing received a severe reprimand, and a promise of something
severer if they ever dared to alarm the Company again, the
frolicking party sneaked off to bed, crest-ſellen and disappointed.
Continuing across the Clamuth Valley, which is nearly destitute
of timber, we came, at thirty miles, to its Southern side, which is a
low division, between the waters of the Clamuth and the Sacramen-
to, and is covered with a forest of Pine and Fir. There we saw
the first of the Sugar Pine, one of the largest and finest of the Pine
species: it is frequently found ten feet in diameter, and two hun-
dred and fifty feet high. The wood of this species is probably su-
perior to the best common Pine. It is called Sugar Pine, from the
peculiar quality of its gum, which tastes very much like Sugar
saturated with Turpentine. A small portion of this gum operates
as a mild and efficient purgative. Here, on our right, is a high range
of Mountains extending North and South; and on our left, the Snowy
Butte, a lofty isolated peak, rises from the bosom of an extensive
plain, far into the region of eternal snow, and gives rise to the
West branch of the Secramento River, which we struck in ten
miles after leaving the Clamuth Valley, and continued down it, fre-
quently crossing and recrossing the stream. Fifteen miles below
the point where we first struck this stream, we came to a Soda
spring, bursting out from the foot of a high hill, and running into
a small basin, formed by travelers or Indians, for the convenience
of drinking. The water of this Spring is strongly impregnated
with some other mineral. From this Soda Spring, we proceeded
down the River, through the Sacramento Hills, which are high,
steep, and rugged; covered with timber, and almost destitute of grass.
The rock in these hills is principally a coarse granite; but that
forming the channel of the River is volcanic. In passing through
these hills we were still compelled to cross and recross the stream,
in order to find a passable way, which, in its whole course, until
it reaches the head of the Valley, a distance of one hundred miles,
is full of falls, rapids, and narrow canions. Having come to the
head of the Valley, we took the west side of the River, which
here begins to assume a different character, losing its irregularity
and rapidity, and flowing with a more even current. Continuing
down the Valley, on the West side, we ſound, all along on the River,
villages of Indians, living in miserable huts made of poles, set on
end in a circle on the ground, leaned together, fastened at the top, and
covered with grass and dirt. We found those in the upper part of
the Valley, entirely naked; and so wild, that they fled from Our ap-

76 ARRival. At captAIN SUTTER’s.
proach, into the thickets, leaving their villages and all their pro-
perty behind them. They subsist, principally, upon salmon,
(which ascend the River in great quantities) upon acorns, and wild
oats.
One hundred and sixty miles from the head of the valley, we
came to the Fort of Capt. Sutter, a large trading establishment,
built of dobies. Capt. Sutter's Fort is situated on the Eastside of
the Sacramento River, about fifty miles above its entrance into the
Bay of St. Francisco, at the head of tide water, and some distance
below the affluance of the Rio de los Americanos, or the Ameircan
River, a stream which has its source in the Mountains to the East.
It is in latitude 38 deg. 35 min. North, and is the principal place in
the Sacramento Valley, and one to which the foreigners who are
residing in Upper California, look for refuge and protection, in case
of an outbreak by the Indians, or an attempt on the part of the Span-
iards, to expel them from the country. The Fort is a quadran-
gular wall, built of large sun-dried brick, and has bastions in the
corners, in which are mounted several small pieces of artillery. It
is garrisoned by about forty Indians; one of whom, constantly stands
sentry, during the day, as well as the night, and apprises those in
the Fort, of the approach of any party, whether friends or foes. It
covers a large area, and is probably capable of containing a garri-
son of one thousand men. Within the walls, are the shops, and
the residences of the officers, mechanics, and servants; and there
is, also, connected with the establishment, a horse mill, a distillery,
and a tannery. Captain Sutter, at first, had difficulties with the
Indians; but by the promptness, and severity with which he has
frequently chastised them; whether he acted against tribes,
or individuals, against Chiefs or subjects; has at length brought
them to fear, and respect him; and now they seldom molest his
property or the men in his employ. The Indians cultivate, and
improve his farms, attend to his large herds of animals, make a
portion of his trapping parties, and do all the drudgery about the
Fort: hundreds of them are ready, also, to defend him against any
emergency. The government of California was, at first, suspi-
cious of him, on account of the strength of his fortifications, and
the influence which he was acquiring over the Indians; but he has
since been appointed an officer of Justice by them. It is, howev-
er, very doubtful, whether their former feelings towards him, are
changed: were it not for the insufficiency of their power, it is
believed, that they would yet banish him from the country. Capt.

UPPER CALIFORN1A. 77
Sutter is a native of Switzerland, and came from Missouri to his
present location, and has been in California about five years: he
purchased the cannon and other portions of the establishment, of a
Russian Company, then in the country; and having obtained, of the
Mexican Government, a grant of land along the Sacramento River,
of some thirty or forty square leagues; he removed to his present
situation. Besides the fur trade, he carries on an extensive busi-
ness in farming, stock raising, and manufacturing. He has a very
large farm, and large bands of cattle, horses, sheep, and hogs, and
constantly keeps employed, mechanics of different descriptions.—
He is spoken of, by all who visit him, as being very accommoda-
ting, hospitable, and altogether, much of a gentleman; nor have
we any disposition, to differ with the general impression. Here
our company disbanded; some going to one, and some to another
part of the province.

CHAPTER W.
DESCRIPTION OF UPPER CALIFORNIA.
Bay of Francisco–Sacramento and St. Wakine Valleys—Many narrow fertiſe
Valleys–Great Lake, &c.—Barren Mountains, containing Silver Ore and
good Water Power–Tar Spring–Gold found in the Puebalo Valley–Cul-
tivation of the Vino–Spanish Dance—Wild Horses—Unsuccessful attempt
to take them.
That portion of Mexican Territory, which is generally alluded
to under the of name California, is included between the Pacific
coast, and the California Mountains; a lofty and rugged range,
which is a continuation of the Cascade Mountains, in Oregon, run-
ning nearly parallel with the coast, and East of it about one hun-
dred and twenty-five miles; and between the parallel of 42 deg.
North, and the Gulf of California. But the Southern part of this
district, including the Peninsula, called Lower California, is a poor,
dry, barren region, and has not yet afforded inducements sufficient to
attract the attention of foreigners. That portion which is most
desirable, and to which persons from the United States, traveling
through, and settling in the country, have entirely confined their
attention, is called Upper California; and is that part lying be-
tween the head of the Gulf, and the Northern boundary of
the Province: and to this portion, we shall be confined in our
remarks.
The Bay of San Francisco, situated in latitude 37° 45' North,
is, perhaps, without exception, the finest and most spacious Har-
bor on the globe. It has been spoken of, and we believe without
exaggeration, as being of sufficient capacity to contain all the Ship-
ping of the world. The entrance of the Bay, is only about one
mile wide. It increases rapidly in width, after entering the land;
and separating, forms two arms; one bearing to the South East,
the other to the North East. The Southern arm, is fifty miles in
length, and ten in width, and is a beautiful sheet of water; deep, and
entirely free from sand-banks and Islands. The Northern arm, is
sixty miles in length, and about ten in width; is very crooked,

WALLEYS OF CALIFORNIA. 79
containing many small islands; and has numerous creeks and coves,
every where indenting its shores. The St. Wakine and Sacra-
monto Rivers, empty at the head of this arm of the Bay; the
former from the South East, and the latter from the North. They
are both streams susceptible of navigation, and their valleys uni-
ting, form the most extensive body of level land, found any where
on the Western coast; being from the head of one valley to that of
the other, about four hundred miles in length ; and in width, from
the California Mountains West, about fifty miles. There are
numerous small streams running through these valleys, from the
mountains, and from the highlands on the West, into the rivers;
on all of which, there are rich and productive strips of land, from
three to four miles in width, and extending back to the mountains.
There are generally, along these streams, narrow belts of Oak
timber, of which there are three kinds: White, Black, and an
inſerior kind of Live Oak. The trunks are short, and none are
well calculated for fencing. Between the streams, the land is
less fertile, very dry, and not at all adapted to cultivation; it, never-
theless, produces an abundance of the richest kind of grass, capa-
ble of affording support, during the whole year, to large herds of
cattle and horses.
On the California Mountains, and on many of the inclinations,
between them and the valleys, there is a timber called Red Wood;
a large and very fine tree, of the Pine species, peculiar to Califor-
nia; Cedar and Sugar Pine, in inexhaustible abundance. But that
part is generally considered, the best portion of the Province,
which lays West of the Sacramento Valley, and North of the Bay
of San Francisco. It consists of alternate hills and valleys.-
Many of the hills are high but they are gradual and unbroken.—
The valleys are from three to four miles in width, and from fifty
to sixty in length; are all traversed by small streams of water, and
have an excellent soil. Those which connect with the Bay–of
which there are five or six—run from North to South. Those
which connect with the coast, and with the valley of the Sacramen-
to, run to the West, and East. Immediately on the coast North of
the Bay, there is a range of very high, rolling hills, which
increase in height to the North. They are covered with
oats, which is a sponatneous production of this country; with
excellent grass, and with groves and forests of Red Wood and
Oak.

80 WALLEYS OF CALIFORNIA.
One hundred miles North of the Bay, and at about an equal
distance from the Sacramento Valley and the coast, is the Great
Lake, which is, in length from North to South, sixty miles, and
fifteen in width. It is said to be a beautiful, clear sheet of water,
surrounded by a belt of fine alluvial prairie, which also, is encir-
cled by a wall of high Mountains, covered in many places, with
groves of Red Wood and Oak, and giving rise to numerous rivu-
lets, which meander across the plain, and empty into the Lake.-
This is perhaps, the most beautiful, romantic, and picturesque por-
tion of the Province; but its very secluded situation, having, as far
as has yet been learned, no good natural communication with the
surrounding country, renders it less valuable. North of the Great
Lake, the country is, as far as the Clamuth Valley, little else than
a vast cluster of mountains; which, connected by the Sacra-
mento Hills, join with the spurs of the California Moun-
tains, and form the Northern boundary to the habitable portion of
the Province.
The Southern arm of the Bay of San Francisco, is surrounded
by a belt of level land; which, on the North side, is six or eight
miles in width, and very fertile. Francisco or Yerba Buena is a
small town, situated on the point of land South of the
entrance of the Bay, and has a popualtion of about two hundred.—
The land upon which it is built, rises gradually one mile from the
Bay, and descends gradually the same distance, to the Ocean;
and its situation, for a commercial town, is generally consid-
ered to be the best, and most advantageous, in California.
The country South of the Bay, and between the St. Wakine and
the coast, is also diversified with mountains and valleys. The
mountains are high and some of them are barren. The valleys
are fertile, from three to four miles wide, and from forty to fifty
long. Their course is from South East to North West; and the
streams, by which they are watered, empty into the Bay. Further
South, the streams rising in the California Mountains, South of
the head of the St. Wakine, run West, and empty into the Ocean.
They have rich valleys four and five miles in width, covered with
grass and clover, and separted by high mountains; some of which
are covered with forests of Red Wood and scattering Oaks, and
others are barren. Among the barren mountains, in many places
silver is found in abundance; but little or no attention has ever
been paid to it, and none of the mines have yet been worked. The

CAPITOL-SOUTHERN WALLEYS. 81
ore is said to be of good quality, and easily obtained. This part
of the territory is well watered, and affords some good sites for
machinery.
Monte Rey, the Capitol of the Province, is situated at the termina-
tion of one of these valleys, near the mouth of a small river, and
on the bay of Monte Rey, an inlet affording a harbor for shipping,
but too much exposed to the Sea, to be a good and safe one. The
town is small, containing only a population of about three hundred
persons; and is built principally of dobies. Forty miles North East
from Monte Rey, there is a bituminous, or Tar Spring, oozing out
from the foot of a mountain, and covering several acres of ground.
This bitumen or mineral Tar, is said to answer well, all the pur-
poses for which common Tar is used : it is inflammable, and becomes
hard by exposure to the atmosphere.
South from Monte Rey, for several hundred miles, there are no
valleys of considerable size, or country fit for cultivation; being
a succession of high mountains, as far as Santa Barbara. Timber
is scarce in this mountainous district, but it is, nevertheless, con-
sidered valuable for grazing; being covered with an abundance of
oats, and various kinds of nutricious grass. At Santa Barbara,
there is a fine valley, about five miles in width, and sixty in length.
Immediately South of this valley, and separated from it by a moun-
tain, is the lower Pueblo Valley, of about the same size. These
valleys have a black alluvial soil, and are both traversed by small
rivers, rising in the mountains to the East, flowing to the West,
and emptying into the Ocean. They have numerous small tribu-
taries, which arise in the bordering mountains, and empty from
either side.
The great objection to this portion of the country is that it is
almost entirely destitute aſ timber. Gold is found in considerable
quantities, in the upper part of the Pueblo Valley; yet the incon-
venience of water, renders the working of the mines less profita-
ble. A company was formed, however, about the time of our leav-
ing the country, to engage in this business. The Pueblo, and San-
ta Barbara, are both towns of considerable size; containing each,
probably, a population of about two thousand. They are situated
about twenty miles from the sea shore, and the inhabitants are en-
gaged in stock raising, and the cultivation of the vine. There
is anchorage for shipping, at the Western termination of these
valleys.
The Southern portion of the Province of California, called Low.
:
11

82 LOWER CALIFORNIA.
er California, is more populous than the portion which we have
been considering; but its population consists almost entirely of
Mexican Spaniards, and Indians; there being but very few “For-
eigners” in that part of California. (The term Foreigners, is used
here to designate all others, except the Mexican Spaniards, and
Indians; though they have been residents in the country for many
years; have become citizens; or even though they have been
born in the country; still they are foreigners, if they be the de-
scendants of Americans, English, French, Dutch, or of any other
people, except those whom we have excepted.) We have never
traveled through Lower California, and are, therefore, incapable
of making statements concerning it. But we have been informed,
by those who were acquainted with it, that a great portion of it
is mountainous, dry, and sterile; and especially the Peninsula of
California: and, although we have never tested, by actual observa-
tion, the correctness of this description, yet we have some corrob-
orating evidence of its truth; since we have observed, in proceed-
ing South, from the Bay of San Francisco, that the country becomes,
as we advance, gradually less fertile, and less favorable to vege-
tation; the cultivated land, requiring frequent arrigation, to coun-
teract the effect of the Summer droughts: we have also observed
that the country becomes more mountainous; the valleys less
productive; and that timber, is often, almost entirely wanting.
From this, we would conclude, and we think, not without a good
degree of reason, that in advancing still farther to the South, we
would, probably, find the country agreeing with the description,
which our informants have given. The fact, that there are so
few foreigners in that portion of the country, leads to the opinion
that there is little inducement for them to settle there. Were it
otherwise, we might be sure of finding Americans, at least; for
there is no country, of considerable extent, upon the earth's sur-
face, which offers either pleasure or profit, where some of our ad-
venturous countrymen, are not to be found, unless their entrance
is prohibited by the laws, or prevented by opposing arms.
Between the Northern and the Southern arms of the Bay of San
Francisco, there is a range of high lands commencing, which,
after running a short distance in a South East course, trends away
to the South, until their general course is about parallel with the
coast. They separate the waters of the Southern arm of the Bay
of San Francisco, and those of the Bay of Monte Rey, (the Rio
San Buenevantura) from the St. Wakine or Rio San Joaquin, which

VALI.EY OF ST. W.A.KINE. 83
as we have said, empties into the Northern arm. Trending again
to the East, they probably intersect with the California Mountains,
South of the head of the San Joaquin, bounding its valley on the
West and South, and giving rise, on one side, to the tributaries
which come into it, from those directions, and on the other, to the
Eastern tributaries of the Rio San Buenevantara, and to some other
smaller streams, which rise South of this, and empty into the
Ocean.
The soil of the Valley of the St. Wakine, along the river, and
on its tributaries, is very rich, and consequently, favorable to agri-
cultural productions. These fertile strips, make up a great por-
tion of the valley; but beside these, there are extensive tracts of
barrenland, laying back, between the river and the mountains, and
between its tributaries. These barred tracts, are so dry and sandy,
as to be entirely unfit for cultivation; but they are, nevertheless,
covered with that superior kind of grass, peculiar to these Western
countries; and which, although it is much less abundant on the
barren, than on the fertile land, is richer and more nutritious. On
this account, these unfruitful lands, are not altogether valueless;
affording, as they do, excellent pasturage for large herds of cat-
tle. In one portion of this valley, the land is so sandy, that several
of the mountain streams, which would otherwise empty into the
River, are swallowed up. This portion is of considerable extent,
and the river, for a long distance opposite to it, receives no tribu-
taries, from that side.
It will seem contradictory, that lands unfit for cultivation, and so
dry, as we have represented these to be, should produce grass suffi-
cient to render them valuable, for the purpose of grazing : but, it
must be remembered, that during the rainy season, the frequent
showers keep, even these, almost constantly moist; and that the tem-
perature, at this season, is of sufficient mildness, to favor Vegeta-
tion; and the fact of the grass becoming cured during the dry
season, causes them to afford nourishment for animals, constantly,
It is improbable, that they will bear pasturage to the same extent,
or support the same number of animals, as the ſertile lands. But
when the country becomes well populated, and when all the lands,
adapted to cultivation, shall have been brought into requisition,
for that purpose; then these barren lands, with proper care,
will give support, the most healthy and nutritious, to immense num-
bers of all kinds of herbiverous animals.
This, however, is not to be considered, as the general character
-
84 LAKES-GAME-PASS.
of the Valley of the St. Wakine; on the contrary, it is considered
to be one of the best portions of California. In many places,
where the tributaries of the St. Wakine enter the Valley, there
are the terminations of narrow, but rich, and beautiful valleys;
which wind away among unexplored, and rugged spurs and
peaks, and penetrate deep into the bosom of the California Moun-
tains.
In the upper extremity of the Valley of the St. Wakine, there are
large lakes, or marshes, called tulares, from the tulé, (bull rushes.)
with which they are filled. It grows to an astonishing size, and
so thick, that it is almost impossible to pass through it. This tulé
when it falls, covers the marshes, in places, to the depth of more
than two feet. There is one of the tulares here, in particular,
which is very large, has several streams emptying into it, and cov-
ers an extent of many miles. There are others, similar to these, in
different parts of the country; there is said to be a large one, through
which the River, which empties into the Southern arm of the Bay
of San Francisco, flows; and there are some, in the Valley of the
Sacramento. There has yet been made, no permanent settlement,
in the Valley of St. Wakine. The causes of this, are, that until
now, there were other portions of the country, which were thought
to offer greater inducements to the settler; and the Indians, who
live in the bordering mountains, and who roam through the valley,
are, by no means to be trusted. In consequence of there having
been no settlements made here, the Valley of the St. Wakine,
abounds with all kinds of game, common to the country. Elk, in
large bands, are scattered over it, in every direction. Deer are
numerous. And there are Antelopes and Bears, also. The tula-
res, and the streams, are crowded with deafning swarms of water-
fowls. All of these different kinds of game, at certain seasons, get
to be very ſat. There are other wild animals in the St. Wakine
Valley. There are many wolves; and wild horses, in bands of
many hundreds, may be seen at all times, feeding on its extensive
prairies.
At the source of one of the Upper and Eastern tributa-
ries of the St. Wakine, is Walker's Pass; through which, Captain
Walker, the discoverer of the Pass, conducted, in the Autumn of
1843, a part of the California emigrants, with whom we traveled
from the States to Fort Hall. More frequently it is called “the
Point of the Mountain.” It is described, as being a beautiful,
though narrow, valley, cutting the mountain from its summit


walker's Pass. 85
almost to its base; affording the only good, natural pass, through
this rugged, barrier into the valuable portion of California-
Through this, with a little labor, it is believed, that a very passable
wagon road may be made but being near the parallel of 35 deg.,
it is entirely too far to the South, to be of much advantage to emi-
grants from the United States, who cross the Rocky Mountains, at
the Great Pass. This Pass, through the Rocky Mountains is in
latitude 42 deg. 23 min., and the point on the Pacific coast, where
Emigrants would wish, generally, to terminate their journey, is
between the latitudes 37 and 38 deg.; so that, after striking
the California Mountains, they would have to make, nearly five
degrees of Southing—out of their course-in order to pass
around “the Point of the Mountains;” and afterwards, to make
nearly three of Northing to regain what they had lost. This
would be making a circuit, of between four and five hundred miles,
in order to accomplish, that, which, by a different route, might be
accomplished in about two hundred. This shorter route is, howev-
er, a very steep, rugged, and difficult one; but preſerable, we be-
lieve, to the other, on account of the great difference in distance.
But should emigrants go into California, by the way of Taos; or
by some more Southern Pass through the Rocky Monntains, than
that by which they go at the present; then will Captain Walker's
Pass, be found an excellent way, into the Western portion of this
country. It will, also, be of the utmost importance, to emigrants,
who may be overtaken, by the rainy season; as it is seldom, if
ever, obstructed by the snows, which immediately after the com-
mencement of the rains, cover all the mountains; blocking up ev-
ery other way, to such a dregree, that it is extremely hazardous to
attempt them.
This little Valley of verdure and flowers, looks out, from its
Eastern extremity, upon an arid desert, over which, in the vast
scope which the eye embraces, nothing presents, save huge piles
and masses of dark rock, and thirsty sands. In this region, so
wonderful, and so unlike any other portion of the known world,
even the foot prints of the bold trapper, have seldom disturbed the
inhospitable sands. There are a few tracks in the vast region
which lies between the California and Rocky Mountains, traveled
at times, by the Trappers, and by the Mexican Traders; but these
are rare: between them, are extensive spaces, which have never
been trodden, by the foot of civilized man. Previously, this has
been marked, on the otherwise very imperfect, and incorrect maps,
86 EASTERN CALIFORNIA.
which have been made of the countries West of the Rocky Moun.
tains, “the unexplored region.” It was left a perfect blank; and
it is strange, that in this very acknowldgment of their ignorance
the map-makers have described, so acurately, what succeeding ex-
plorations have proved, to be a perfect blank. It is reasonable to
suppose, that the All-Wise, has arranged everything in nature, with
perfect fitness; that there is nothing, in the great globe, which is
not perfectly adapted to some proper purpose; which is not a ne-
cessary part, in this vast, harmonious machine—the Universe of
God. But, as far as the eye of man, though aided by all his phi-
losophy, has yet been able to see; the half of all is unaccountable.
So is this seeming waste. It appears to have been thrown in,
merely to fill up space; or, to be a barrier, to the commerce, and
intercourse of man. To us, a great portion of it, is more than a
blank; we would rather have buried, not only a part, but the whole
of it, beneath the billows of a vast inland sea. In other res.
pects, the map-makers have been less correct; ignorant that
these arid sands could swallow up all the rivers, and torrents, and
melted snows of the surrounding mountains, they omitted the loftiest
range in North America, in order that the waters of Lake Timpan-
agos, (the Great Salt Lake.) might flow into the Bay of San Fran-
cisco. That was useless. They are thirsty still: the Rio Cole-
rado, were it not protected by a wall of Mountains, would never
reach the Gulf of California. There are many lakes besides this,
and many streams, running down from the mountains, which en-
close this Valley of the Great Salt Lake; all of which, are swal-
lowed up in the sands. The Valley of the Salt Lake, has no outlet.
The lofty range, which separates it from the Pacific, has yielded
only to the Columbia. The Cascade Mountains, have been sever-
ed, only by the great River of the West; and the California Moun-
tains, (an extension of the same) are unbroken. They stand,
like a mighty wall, to separate the green valleys of Western Cali-
fornia, from this parched waste.
This Eastern portion of California, however, like Eastern Ore-
gon, contains some green spots, to show more effectually, the drea-
riness of all around them. Along the Eastern base of the Califor-
nia Mountains, there are, probably, enough of these productive
spots, to induce men, in time, to inhabit them. They might be
made somewhat profitable, for grazing. There is a region, of
considerable extent, in the neighborhood of the Great Salt Lake,
which would afford excellent pasturage. There are also, on some


DESERT REGION.—CLIMATE. 37
of the streams which empty into it, narrow valleys, which have a
good soil. Only a portion of this, however, was seen by ourselves;
our knowledge concerning it depends, partially, upon the inſorma-
tion of others; together with our knowldge, of the general char-
acter of the country. A great portion of this habitable region,
lies North of the forty second parallel of North latitude, and is,
consequently, in the Oregon Territory.
But there is a large portion of the desert region, of which there
is little or nothing known. What is known, concerning it, has been
learned by merely passing through it, in a few places, by routes,
seprated from each other, by great interveing distances; yet from
the dreariness of every track, that has yet been tried, may be in-
ſered with a good degree of certainty, what those portions are,
which have ye. either repelled the efforts of the traveler, the tra-
der, and the trapper; or deterred them, by their very appearance,
from attempting to break in upon the secrecy of their gloomy and
forbiding solitudes.
With a very few exceptions, in this whole vast scope of territo-
ry, lying immediately beyond the Rocky Mountains, extending
West several hundred miles, and to an uncertain distance North
and South, there can never locate any civilzed society. Their
inhabitants will be like those in the Deserts of Arabia, and in the
Sahara of Africa.
The climate of California, like that of Oregon, is much milder
than in the same latitudes, any where East of the Rocky Moun-
tains. In fact, it is in every respect, very similar to the climate
of Oregon; excepting only, that it is warmer in proportion to its
difference of latitude, and is dryer: there being not so much
rain, during the winter season, and scarcely any during the sum-
mer. It is very mild; ice seldom ever being seen in the valleys,
or snow, except upon the mountains. The extremes of heat and
cold, are not great; nor is the climate sebject to any great and
sudden changes. The atmosphere is so pure, that whole beeves
will remain sweet and good, in the open air without salt, at any
season of the year, for three or four days at a time. The mights
are quite cool, during the whole year; and sickness of any kind,
is scarcely known or thought of. Nearly all the products of tem-
perate climates, except Indian Corn, flourish here. Oats and clover
grow spontaneously, in almost every part of the Province. The
vine flourishes as well, perhaps, in California, as in any other por-
tion of the world; and its fruit is the finest, and decidedly the

88 MANAGEMENT or wild cattle.
most delicious, that we have ever tasted. There are many large
vinyards in different parts of the country, from which several
thousand barrels of wine are annually made. Many of the tropi-
cal fruits come to perſection here. The prickly pear is cultivated
for its fruit. The peach and pear do well; but the apple is not so
fine as in the United States. In the Southern part of California,
irrigation is necessary, to the production of wheat and garden veg-
etables; but in the North, this is seldom the case; the late winter
rains being sufficient to perfect the harvest. But a small portion
of the Province is yet in cultivation; the Spaniards, who comprise
the chief population, being engaged principally, in rearing and
herding cattle and horses; for which, both the climate and country
are peculiarly adapted. Many individuals own several thousand
animals; which are kept in bands, and require only the attention
of a herdsman. They are always very wild, and can be managed
only by force. They are driven into a coral, (a strong enclosure.)
once every year, for the purpose of branding, &c. The Spaniards
enter these coråls on horse back, with the lassoo, which is a rope,
made of raw hide, very strong, and formed into a running noose.
Holding one end of this rope, coiled in the left hand, they swing
the extended noose with the right several times above the head, in
order to open it, and to acquire momentum, and then throw it, with -
almost unerring precision, from thirty to ſorty feet, about the head
of any animal they choose, making fast the end which they retain,
around the horn of the saddle, which is made very strong, and
bound firmly upon the horse. The horse, as well as the rider, un-
derstands the manner of manoeuvering, and is able to hold the
strongest bullock; taking care to watch closely its movements,
when it is disposed to make battle, and avoiding its furious passes,
until it becomes exhausted, or assistance is given to the person who
has cought the animal. -
These Spaniards are probably equal, in horsemanship, to any peo-
ple in the world, the famous Arabs of the Eastern deserts, and the
wild Cumanches of the great Western praries, not excepted. Ma-
ny of their feats are entirely increditable, to those who are not
well acquainted with their character. We have heard it frequent-
ly said, (and it is nearly true,) that the Mexican Spaniard does eve-
ry thing on horseback and with the lassoo. The Californians like
most other Mexican Spaniards, are a lazy, indolent and cowardly
people, and have neither enterprise nor spirit of improvement in
their disposition, they are only a grade above the aborigines, and

cIIARACTER OF THE CALIFORNiANs. 89
like them they will soon be compelled from the very nature of
things, to yield to the swelling tide of Anglo-Saxon adventure.
Almost every thing which the Californians possess is of the
rudes and simplest construction. Among the better class, how-
ever, there are many exceptions to the general rule; but the great
majority of the Californians, who are of Spanish descent, will be
embraced under it. Their houses, which are constructed of mud
and poles, are often, without either floors or chimneys. Within,
they are filthy, and destitute of almost all the furniture, most com-
monly used by civilized people; even chairs, beds, and tables, are
wanting. The earthen floor, without any addition, affords them
convenient seats, and with the addition of a bullock's hide, it is made
to answer the purpose, of both table and bedsteads. Their cooking
utensils, and diet, are rough, and simple, as their furniture; even
those who are not of the lowest grade, live almost entirely on beef;
and after the manner of their brother aborigines, a wooden stake,
sharpened at both ends, so as to form a spit, answers the purpose of
pot and platter.
The principal business of all classes, is attending to animals;
there are some, however, who cultivate small patches of ground. In
doing this, they use plows of the most simple and primitive style.
Their plows are nothing more than the fork of a tree, so cut and trim-
med, that one of the prongs answers as a beam, by which it is drawn,
the other prong is the plow itself, and the main stem, with some
trimming, makes the handle. The Spaniards do not, however, often
engage in laborious exercise. They are generally content with
merely living; and in a country possessed of so mild a climate, as
California has, it requires very little exertion to live. Where
labor must be performed, they usually employ the Indians, who
are obtained for a mere nominal compensation. In fact, a great
many of the Indians in California, are little else than slaves.
A wheeled carriage is seldom used by a Californian; a horse
and rope answers his purpose. Often, when he goes to any of the
towns, to purchase an article, he fastens his money—which is a
bullock's hide—to one end of his lassoo; and then mounting his
horse, winds the other end around the horn of his saddle, and put-
ting spurs, dashes off at a furious rate, over hill and plain, with, or
without a road, to the town.
Their saddles, which are made very strong, are loaded with va-
rious trappings, have large heavy wooden stirrups, and altogether,
frequently weigh sixty or seventy pounds. The plan of the saddle
12
90 STATE OF THE GOVERNMENT.
tree, is an excellent one, and the saddles are very safe and pleasant
for the rider; and when they are well constructed, with the excep-
tion of their weight, are easy on the animal.
It is difficult to find a people, or even an individual, who has not
some good trait of character; and even these Californians, with all
their faults, are hospitable at their houses. If a stranger goes to
one of their houses, he is made welcome to whatever it affords,
and as comfortable as their limited means will allow ; he
must, however, furnish his own bed. It is always expected that a
traveler in California will carry that article with him. When he
departs, nothing is demanded, and nothing will be received by them,
as a compensation; the almost universal and beautiful reply is,
when payment is proffered : “No, God will pay.”
There are now about five hundred foreigners residing in the
country, and the principal portion are from the United States.
Emigration from the United States is rapidly increasing, and it is
probable that our citizens will possess themselves of this beautiful
and healthy country, with its many vales of fertile land. They
will soon outnumber the Spaniards, and gain the ascendency over
them. The consequence will be, to throw off their present form
of government, establish a Republic of their own, and render this
portion of our globe, what nature has seemed to design it should
be, a prosperous and happy country.
Grants of land are still obtained from the government, of from
one to ten leagues. These grants cannot, however, be had at all
times, or by all persons; only those who are in favor with the au-
thorities, are likely to get lands.
The duties on foreign imports, are exceedingly high, and all for-
eign articles, for which there is any demand, bear a great price.
Smuggling is common, and presents are said to turn away the eyes
of the Government Officers, and lessen their estimates upon the
value of cargoes.
The Government is under the direction of a Governor, appoint-
ed by the authorities of the Mexican Government, and the officers
of justice are the same as in her other Provinces; they are called
Alcaldes, are elected by the people, and have powers very similar
to our Justices of the Peace; but the influence of bribery and favor-
itism affects, in a great degree, the principles of justice, and almost
entirely defeats the administration of the laws; and its remoteness
from the Capital renders the influence and control of the National
Government very limited. They have a regularly organized mili-



Popuſ. A R AMUSENIENTs. 91
tia and a small standing army, in the country; but the rebellion
of last winter drove the army, with the Governor, out of the
Province.
The Spaniards of California are very dissipated, and are exceed-
ingly fond of dressing and amusement. This character applies in
a greater or less degree to all, but those only of the higher and
wealthier class can indulge these dissipations, to much extent.
They are unfeeling and cruel, and many of their amusements par-
take of this character. They love to witness combats between the
Wild Bull and Grizly Bear; for this purpose, a strong arena is
formed with heavy palisades, and the animals are taken wherever
they can be found, with the lassoo, and dragged into the arena. By
them, a Bull is taken, and managed without difficulty; but the Bear,
with all their skill and horsemanship, is still a powerful opponent:
yet, four or five of these Californians, mounted on their strongest
horses, will even take this powerful and ſerocious animal alive, and
convey him several miles, in order to gratify their ſondness for
barbarous scenes. If a single horseman, unassisted, throws his
assoo about the neck of a Grizly Bear, the Bear seating himself
upon his hinder parts, grasps the lassoo in his fore paws, and com:
mences “hauling away,” hand over hand, as adroitly as a Jack-
Tar; dragging horse and rider together, towards him. In a case
f this kind, the only alternative is, to “slip the cable and make
sail.” But when there are several to assist, they throw their
assoos around the feet of the captured animal, and thus confined,
they drag him away. Being placed together in the arena, the
two furious animals soon engage with each other, but the Bear,
after such rough handling, is so strained, and bruised, and worried,
that he is frequently borne down, and gored to death, by his less
powerful adversary. They are fond of cock-fighting, also and
horse-racing; and as the Sabbath is both a leisure and lucky day,
and one in which they are commanded to do no labor, their sports,
generally, come upon that day, and they are attended by all
classes, by saint and sinner. But before every thing else, the
Californian is passionately fond of his own National dance, the
Mexican Fandango. In order to convey some idea of this great
favorite Mexican amusement, we will give a brief description of
one that went off on a Sunday night, in Sonoma, at the residence
of a Spanish gentleman, Don Gaudeloupe Viyeahoes, to attend
which, we were favored with an invitation. About candlelighting
the guests began to assemble, among whom we were the earliest,

92 FANDANGO.
in order to witness the whole proceedings. As they arrived, the
gentlemen collected in small groups, through the yard, and enter-
ed into the discussion of various subjects; and some highly amusing
if we might be allowed to judge from appearances, such as teeth
shining under black curling mustachoes—the low chucle, with an
occasional loud laugh—while others, with more serious demeanor,
were calculating their chances for failure or success, in the pend-
ing revolution, for they were rebels, and were consequently inter-
ested in the issue. In the meantime, the young ladies, with noisy
glee, were frolicking, singing, and dancing within; and some of
the married ones were preparing the nicknacks, and getting ready
the wines, while others were engaged in arranging and ornament-
ing the room for the dance. Preparation being ended, we were
invited in, and took our seats in a row, on one side of the room,
while the ladies, in the same order, occupied the other. The sides
of the hall, which was twenty by forty feet, were lined, with per-
sons of every age. The music, which consisted of two guitars
and a violin, occupied one end, while the other was filled up by
several tables, upon which were heaped indiscriminately, hats,
cloaks, coats, and shawls, and the board bearing the sweet breads,
wines, &c., which completed the circle, and occupied a large por-
tion of the room. The hall was well lighted, by lamps, suspended
from the walls and ceiling; in short, everything was very well regu-
lated, except only, the disposition of the sexes. A young Don now
stepped into the middle of the floor, gave a few shuffles, and the
music commenced. He began to pat, or rather to stamp the tune,
flat footed: which he continued, without variation, until he had
gone through all the different parts of the air. During this time,
he had moved to the farther end of the hall, and back again to his
starting place; and so exactly had he calculated the measure of his
step, that he had occupied precisely the same space of time, in
accomplishing his circuit, that was required by the musician, in
completing the tune. He then walked up to a young lady, and
began clapping his hands in her face, in a manner that reminded
us, of a young Hoosier, scaring black birds out of a corn field, or
encouraging a lazy cur to take hold of some rascally pig; but we
soon learned, that he was only inviting her to dance. So, after
clapping his hands half a dozen times, he retired to his seat, and
the lady came on to the floor, and went through the same patting
and stamping, which the gentleman had done. This mode of dan-
eing had continued for some time, when one of the fair, who was

FANDANGO. 9:3
occupying the floor; from fancy, curiosity, or politeness, danced up
to an American, and began clapping her hands in his face. Our
countryman Was evidently very much embarrassed; he blushed,
addened, and at last, after several hems and hawks, stam mered out,
“No, sarcy.” Not at all discouraged at this failure, and resolved, as
it seemed, on seeing an American dance; she turned, and went
waltzing up to our friend, who by the way, was not easily dashed,
though not much of a dancer. “What could I do,” said he after-
ward; “I could not dance in their style, I knew : and but very
little in any other: if I took the floor, I might reasonably expect
to fail, and so be laughed at, for an awkward American ; if I refus-
ed, I should be ridiculed for my timidity, and want of gallantry.
While thinking thus,” said he, “the lady was all the while, with a
most persuasive smile, bowing, clapping her hands, and urging her
entreaties, with all the English she was acquainted with. I turned
my head, saw some of the company beginning to titter, and could
bear it no longer.” Here he made a desperate effort, gained the
middle of the floor, and then went patting away, to the further end of
the room; imitating their mode of dancing, as well as he could :
then turning, he came down on a real, regular, backwoods hoe-
down shuffle; wheeled into the middle of the floor, cut the pigeon
wing, and brought up before a pretty brunette, who seemed about
to go into a fit of hysterics, from excessive laughter, at the novel
performance; clapped his hands four or five times in her face, and
then went whirling away to his seat. “Go it countryman—huzzah
countryman,” cried we, joining in the general uproar. The Span-
iards appeared to be much interested, and were quite pleased with
this new way of dancing, and during the evening, we saw num-
bers of both sexes, trying to imitate the step. At length, becoming
tired of this single handed game, they changed it, into a series of
waltzes, cotilions, &c.; which were performed with such noise and
uproar, that we verily believe they might have been heard half a
mile. It appeared that skill was estimated, by them, in proportion
to the amount of sound produced; which was created in two ways:
first, by the heavy dancing, and secondly, by yelling at the top of
the voice, parts of the tune, which were designed to chime in with
the instruments; but which, however, so far from being the case,
when half a dozen of those stentorian voices, at once broke forth,
it produced such a variety of horrible discords, as could be compar-
ed to nothing, but the simultaneous roar, of a caravan of African
and Asiatic animals. At length came the refreshments, which con-

Q4 - A COMPARISON.
sisted of cakes, dates, dried figs, and wines, and were handed
around by the married ladies. About thirty minutes having been
spent, in thus reviving the physical strength, the dance again com.
menced, and was continued, with great spirit and exertion, until a
late hour of the night; when the weary, and drowsy guests re-
tired; and there was an end to the biosterous ſandango.
This was a collection of about the fairest samples, which the
country could afford; and how far inſerior were they, even to the
unlearned and poorer classes, in our own country Selfishness, it
is true, is sure to make us have a good opinion of ourselves; and
with ourselves, to make us appear favorable in comparison with
others. A knowledge of this, should generally dictate to us, the
propriety of not hazarding an expression, concerning our own
goodness or greatness, in such a comparison: but there are in-
stances, and this is one of them, in which there is no possibility of
being mistaken. These very people, though they are not aware of
it, in all their intercourse with foreigners, admit the inferiority
of their judgment and knowledge, in every respect, except
only in those things, which are immediately connected with their
every day life. Why is there so great a difference There must
have been some great cause to have produced it: it is evident that
such a difference did not exist, between the brave and enterprising,
though infatuated Spaniards, who conquered Mexico; and our
forefathers: even the people whom the Spaniards conquered, were
far, very far superior to these. What great cause, we would en-
quire, has operated to sink them so far beneath their proud, daring,
and high minded ancestors; and that too, while all the rest of the
civilized world, has been moving forward with giant strides, up
the great highway of human improvement & What could it have
been, but “that accursed thirst for gold!”
But to plunge precipitately from one extreme to another, as has
been usual with us, in the few preceding pages; to step, from the
threshhold of the best specimen of society, which this degraded
people possess, at once into the wilds of this wild country;
we will enter again the Valley of the St. Wakine.
During our stay in the country, we went, in company with a
friend, from Capt. Sutter's, to the South, in order to examine the
St. Wakine; to see the wild horses, and to visit the Capital, Monte
Rey. We proceeded down the Sacramento, passed around the
head of the Bay, and came to the St. Wakine River, thirty
miles above its mouth, on the third day. This part of the country

A RIDE ON THE ST, WARINE. 95
is inhabited, by a very troublesome tribe of Indians, called the
Horse Thieves, and contains no white settlement. The character
of these Indians will readily be inferred from their name, which is
most appropriate. They have long been hostile to the Spaniards,
and a short time previous, had killed a white man; and it was there-
fore necessary for us to be very cautious, while we were passing
through their country. They have their Villages in the small
valleys, and nooks, deep in the mountains: where they keep their
women and children, and to which they fly, as soon as they have
committed any depredation. Among these fastnesses, they enjoy
their booty in quiet: the Spaniards not daring to follow them among
the mountains. They subsist, principally, upon horse flesh ; some
of which they procure from the wild bands, which cover the
Valley of the St. Wakine, but principally, from the Spanish bands;
from which they frequently drive of hundreds, and sometimes
thousands of horses. Many of these Horse Thieves have been
educated in the Catholic Missions; where they were comfortably
fed and clothed, and promised homes, during their lives; but when
the Missions were broken up—by the avarice of the Spaniards ;
these Indians fled to the mountains: from whence they have since
continued to commit depredations, and destroy the lives and prop-
erty, of their own enemies and destroyers.
Traveling up the St. Wakine, we frequently saw large herds
of Elk and wild Horses. The Elk, which were often in herds of
four or five hundred, were not very easily frightened, and seldom
ran to a great distance; but the Horses, which were still more nu-
merous, and were scattered, in large bands, all along the river, after
having satisfied themselves with approaching and examining us,
would dash of across the valley, at full speed; and, in their course
whatever bands they came near, would join in the flight, until fre-
quently, the plain would be covered, with thousands and thousands
flying in a living flood towards the hills. Huge masses of dust
hung upon their rear, and marked their track across the plain;
and even after they had passed entirely beyond the reach vision,
we could still see the dust, which they were throwing in vast
clouds into the air, moving over the highlands. These frighten-
ed bands were never out of sight; so numerous are the wild horses
on teh St. Wakine. Continuing up the river we came, on the
second day, to a coral, which had been built some time previous,
by our acquaintance, for the purpose of taking these wild horses.
It was situated in a large slough of the river, at a part which
96 AN AT TEMPT TO TAKE W. LD HORSEs.
was then dry, for several hundred yards; and was the principal
crossing for the horses, from an island containing several thousand
acres, which was formed by the slough. There were two large
bands upon the island when we arrived, and we made an effort to
drive them into the coral; but they took another crossing, and we
did not succeed. Our friend pursued the first band that left the
island, with the lassoo, endeavoring to take a fine mule, which he
selected; but his horse being fatigued, he was not able to come up
with it. When the second started, we put spur for the crossing
which they were about to take, and arrived at the same time that
the foremost horses of the band leaped down into the water. We
endeavored to turn them, whooping and yelling most man ſully,
but those behind, urging those before, forced them forward, and
they began to rush by. The pass was narrow, and the dust so ob-
scured us, that they frequently ran near enough for us to strike
them in the sides as they were passing; but we were at length
compelled to retire, on account of the suffocating effect of the
dust. Presently, again approaching, with whooping and yelling,
we endeavored, the second time, to turn them; but they only gave
way, and closed around us, and the dust again obliged us to retire: we
finally succeeded in turning a few of the last, yet they were so
determined to follow the others, that we only drove them a few
hundred yards, towards the corål, before they plunged down a
perpendicular bank, fifteen or twenty feet, into the slough, burying
themselves completely under the water; aud gaining the opposite
shore, followed the band. The Spaniards often take the wild horses
in this manner, and frequently, by pursuing them, upon the open
plain. When they have taken one, they confine it, with ropes,
saddle it, put a halter on it, and having again loosened it, they
mount, and ride it furiously, until it is completely exhausted. And
they continue to do this, until the animal becomes tame, and tract-
able. These wild horses are of almost every color; some of them
have a very fine appearance, but they are much smaller than well-
bred horses; and their habits are, in some respects, entirely differ-
ent from those of the domestic horses. From the coral, we pro-
ceeded across the country, to Monte Rey.
Arriving at Monte Rey, we found a gentleman and his family,
who had left the States with us, and with whom, as we have before
mentioned, we traveled, as far as Fort Hall. They left Fort Hall
for California, under the pilotage of Captain Walker, about the
same time that we left it, for the Falls of the Willammette. After


EMIGRANT* TO CALIFORNIA. 97.
traveling through the dreary country of which we have spoken, as
far as the California Mountains, they followed that range South, sev-
eral hundred miles, and entered the Valley of the St. Wakine, by
Walker's Pass. The small supply of provisions; which, by very
unpleasant means, they at length procured at Fort Hall, after con-
tinued and persevering effort; were exhausted, long before they
could reach a place where they could be resupplied. A country so
barren, as that through which they were compelled to travel, aſ-
ſorded, neither game, nor food of any kind, except that upon
which the few miserable and beast like Indians, who inhabit that
region, subsist–lizzards, crickets, ants, and the like—and which
would, of course, be revolting to the palate of any other people,
unless in the very extremity of starvation. They suffered extreme-
ly; and before they arrived at the Pass, they were driven to the
necessity, of eating some of the mules and horses, which had serv-
ed them so faithfully, and which were then poor, and worn out
with fatigue, from long and laborious traveling, over a country so
rough and barren. They left their wagons, and much of their
baggage; and packing what they could, upon the remainder of
their fatigued animals, they succeeded in gaining the Pass. When
they came into the Valley of the St. Wakine, they fared more bounti-
fully upon the wild horses, which they found in good condition, and
in great abundance. They finally arrived, in the winter, at the
settlements; and after suffering all hardships and privations, were
prepared to relish, in no common degree, the abundance which
they afforded.
We also, had an opportunity, during our stay in the country, of
seeing most of those, with whom we parted at Fort Boisé, on Snake
River. The gentleman in whose company we were at this time,
was one of that party. They followed the route which they ex-
pected, at the time of our separation, to follow ; experiencing,
fortunately, not so much difficulty in finding it, as had been antici.
pated. Having left the head of the Malheur River, and traveled
over a barren, sandy country, about two days, without water, they
at length, after ascending a high mountain, came upon a lofty, but
beautiful table land; rich, and wooded with pines, or varied by
prairies, and coursed by many clear mountain streams. They
discovered, what they supposed to be the head of the willan.
mette, and corrected an error, which had previously been enter-
tained, concerning the source of the Sacramento. They had
expected to endure suffering; and in this they were not mistaken.
13

98 EMIGRANTS TO CALIFORNIA.
Although they were fortunate, in finding their way through an
unknown country, and still more so, in preserving their lives from
its brutal and hostile inhabitants; yet the lateness of the season,
together with their entire ignorance of a great portion of the
pathless wilds, and precipitous mountains, over which they had to
pass, subjected them to numerous, and serious hardships. At
times, when they saw no way to move forward, an additional ob-
stacle was opposed to their advancement, by heavy falls of snow;
greatly increasing, and at the same time, concealing the dangers of
their perilous way. Their provisions became exhausted.
Some of their animals had been killed by the Indians, some dash-
ed to pieces by falling from the rocks, and those that remained,
poor from want of sufficient food, and worn down by the journey,
were all upon which the little party had to depend for the support
of life. After encountering delays, and suffering much from anx-
iety, fatigue, hunger, and cold, they at length succeeded in get-
ting down into the Sacramento Valley. Thin and feeble them-
selves, they finally arrived, early in the winter, at Capt. Sutters;
on foot, and leading their animals, which were no longer able to
carry them. This was the point where they had designed, for a
time, to terminate their travels; and here they found, that abun-
dance, and repose, to which they had so long, and eagerly looked
forward, and which their present condition so much required.
Almost all the suffering, which the emigrants to California expe-
rienced, was owing to the detention, which they were compelled
to make along the road, for the purpose of supplying themselves
with privisions. Had they been properly provided, before
the commencement of the journey, and not depended at all on the
game, they would have avoided it almost entirely. It is to be won-
dered at, that the person who assumed the leading of the party,
and who was then making his second trip to California, had not
learned, from his experience to give better counsel; but in respect
to those who were unacquainted with the country, it is not in the
least astonishing, that they should be mistaken, in making the ne-
cessary preparations, to travel comfortably, and securely, through
a region so unlike everything, to which they had ever been accus-
tomed.
The Northern portion, of Western California, considered in
comparison with the Mississippi Valley, like Oregon, contains a
great deal less fertile land, in proportion to its extent. Much of
this portion cf California, which is far superior to any other, is

A COMPARISON. 99
taken up by mountains, or lands otherwise unfit for cultivation;
whereas, in the Mississippi Valley, the whole might be brought in-
to one vast, fruitſul, and unbroken field. From this reason, the
Mississippi Valley must always be the most productive, and wealthy
country. But on account of the delightful mildness, and uniform-
ity of the climate of California; it will forever be, the most
healthy and happy country.
CHAPTER VI.
RETURN TO THE STATES.
Journey TRosſ captAIN scTTER’s to Fort HALL, with soxir of its incipexºrs.
Leave California for the United States—Difficulties in crossing Juba River—
Extensive view from the summit of a mountain, with deep snow on one
side, and naked earth and fine grass on the other—Burnt Mountains—Boil-
ing Springs–Sink of Marie's River, and singular peculiarity of the stream
-Encamp in the bend of the River, and have horses shot by the Indians—
Travel over extensive wastes, and finally come to the Oregon Trail.
Having spent some months in exploring the country, and ob-
tained a tolerably satisfactory knowledge, of the greater part of
Northern or Upper California, either from personal observation, or
by careful enquiries, from such persons as had made themselves
acquainted with the various portions of the country, we determin-
ed on leaving for the United States. After much trouble and exer-
tion in raising a small company of fifteen persons; on the 12th of
May, 1845, we left Capt. Sutter's, on our homeward bound trip.
We traveled up the Sacramento, on the East side, forty miles; and
then traveled up Bear Creek—our course being about East. Cross-
ing the east side of the Sacramento Valley, a distance of about
twenty miles, we came to the spurs of the California Mountains.
We continued to travel up through these hills, following the gen-
eral course of the stream, until we came to its source; which is in
a large marsh, greatly elevated above the Sacramento Valley.
At this marsh we remained one day, in order to find a place where
we could cross Juba River, which was a mile and a half distant, a
stream of considerable size, very rapid, full of falls and canions,
and was at this time quite high, from the melting of the snow on
the mountains. It was only in a few places, where the hills were
sufficiently gradual, to allow us to descend to the water; and these
places were frequently between perpendicular falls, which were so
near, and the velocity of the water so great, as to render the cross-
ing very dangerous, if not absolutely impossible. This was the
character of the first place where we struck the River, which was
on the trail of a small emigrating company, that came into Cali-




















your NEY TO FORT HALL. 101
fornia, the previous summer. We had been told, by a gentleman
whom we had met a few days before, returning from the mountains,
where he had gene to get some wagons, and other property,
which he had been compelled to leave, in the Fall, on account of
the lateness of the season, and the fear of being blocked up by the
coming snows, that it would be impossible for us to cross the stream,
and that it would be best for us to return. We, however, discov-
ered a place, where we ascended the mountain, immediately above
us; and having, with much difficulty, on account of the steepness
of the ascent, gained the summit; we followed the ridge-our
progress being somewhat impeded by the snow-for about eight
miles; and descended into a small bottom of the River. Travel-
ing up the bottom about two miles, we came to a high, rocky spur,
making into the water, around which we were at first unable to
pass. But after searching and examing, for a long time, we at
length ſound a place, where, by cutting away the brush for a con-
siderable distance with our hatchets, and plunging through the
mire and snow, we could pass around the spur. Having accom-
plished this, and traveled up the narrow bottom about two miles
further, we again came to where the mountain neared the river.
The bottom land was miry and covered with brush, and the snow
was about four feet deep. Our loose animals, which were in front.
were crowded into the stream by the pack animals, before we
were aware of the situation. We succeeded, with difficulty, in
stopping the animals which were packed with our provisions, &c.,
and stripping off our baggage and saddles, in the snow, we drove
in the rest of our animals. They all succeeded in gaining a small
island, near the opposite shore, just large enough to contain them ;
where they stayed the whole night in the snow, without anything
to eat. Having kindled a large fire, and arranged our camp, our
next object was, to make a way, by which we could cross ourselves
and baggage. For this purpose, we ſelled a tree, which not being
long enough to reach, was carried down the stream: we then se-
lected a large tall Fir, which we cut about half off, and left it until
the next morning, when we finished cutting it down. In falling,
it broke in two, about fifteen feet from the opposite shore, and the
top was carried away; the main trunk, however, lodged against
the upper part of a large rock, and the force of the current sup-
ported it above. From the broken end of this tree, we were able
to throw poles across to the opposite shore, and in this manner we
constructed a way, upon which we carried across our baggage.

102 JOURNEY TO FORT HALL,
Having repacked our horses, we continued up Juba River, trav.
eling about an East course; sometimes in the narrow bottom of the
stream, and sometimes upon the sides and summits of the ridges.
The snow still continued deep, and covered both the bottoms and
the mountains, in all parts, around us; but it was very compact, and
in the morning would generally bear our animals. We traveled up
the North side about eleven miles, and came to the forks of the
stream; the North branch of which we crossed with difficulty, the
current being very strong, and the channel full of large rocks,
upon which some of our pack animals fell; and were carried down
the stream : and we were compelled, to leap into the water, just
melted from the snow, and assist them to the shore. Having cros-
sed, we came into a prairie, about one mile in width, and three or
four in length, extending to the base of the main ridge of the
mountain; which now lay immediately before us. We ascended
this ridge without much labor, although it was composed entirely
of granite, which lay in large detached fragments, over the whole
surface: and gained the summit. This, on either side of the nar-
row gap through which we passed, was very sharp, and perfectly
bald and barren. Immediately upon reaching the summit, the
whole Eastern side of the mountain burst upon the view ; and a
sudden thrill of joy, awakened in every bosom, and flashed in
every eye : for the snow which had so much impeded, and made
so disagreeable and dangerous, the ascent on the West, had melted
almost entirely away, on the East. Down the mountain we could
see a green spot, at the further end of a beautiful lake, which
spread out in a broad crystal sheet below us. But although this
was so pleasing to us, as it was now the third day since our animals
had had any mourishment, we could not but remain, for a moment,
to admire and enjoy the vastness of the prospect around us. On
either side, there was no limit to the vision, save the thickning air
of the distant horizon, which bent down, and rested upon the far
off hills, like the bending sky, upon the bosom of the great deep.
Within this wide range, was a succession of mountain after moun-
tain, increasing in height, as they approached the summit, upon
which we stood. To the West, from whence we came, wherever
we could see through the tall forests, all was wrapped in one unbro-
ken sheet of snow; to the East, whither we were going, we look-
ed down, down, until the eye was lost among the dimly descried,
crowded, and confused objects in the distance.
Descending the Eastern declivity, we came to the lake, and pas-

WITH SOME OF ITS INCIDENTS. 103
sed around on the Northern side, to the further extremity, where
we found the grass, which we had seen from the summit of the
mountain, in abundance, and of a very good quality. We remain-
ed at this place the rest of the day, in order to refresh our animals,
which were by this time much exhausted, and fatigued, from hun-
ger, and plunging through the snow. The distance from the forks
of Juba River to the lake, is about ten miles; and in this lake the
South branch of Truckies River has its source. This stream was
called, by the emigrating party that went into California, in the
Fall of 1844, after the name of an Indian, who piloted them across
the mountains.
Leaving the lake, and the river which flows from it, to the right,
we bore off to the North East, for a wide, deep gap, through
which we supposed that we could both pass, and leave the moun-
tains. At ten miles, we crossed the North branch of Truckies
River, a stream of considerable size. We traveled eight
miles further, to the head of a stream, running to the North West,
which we called Snow River; as a heavy fall of snow, here obscur-
ing our course, compelled us to halt. Snow continued to fall during
this, and the succeeding day; and we remained in camp. When it
ceased, we again proceeded on our journey, leaving the gap for which
we had been steering, and bearing to the East, through a break in
the mountain which follows the course of Truckies River, and
which is a spur of the main California chain. Having crossed
this mountain, we again came, at five miles, to Truckies River,
which we crossed and traveled down on the South side—passed
across a barren plain, ten miles in width, and at fifteen miles, came
to the Burnt Mountains. These are a succession of several high,
perſectly barren, and very rocky ridges. The distance across,
is about thirty-five miles, and the way was very tedious and toil-
SOme.
We found the Indians on Truckies River, generally, very wild,
entirely naked, and miserably poor. They live in floating houses,
constructed of long, coarse grass, on raſts of dry willow brush.
They are armed with bows and arrows, and subsist, almost entirely,
on lizzards, crickets, and muscles.
Having crossed the Burnt Mountains, we found that it would be
necessary for us to leave Truckies River, as it now bore too much to
the North ; and accordingly, we remained one day encamped, in
order to rest our animals, for a hard travel, across a sandy, unpro-
ductive plain, thirty-five miles, to the sink of Marie's River;

104 JOURNEY TO FORT HALL,
which distance was without drinkable water. We passed three
springs in the plain, but the first was salt, and the other two, which
were close together, were both hot; the largest one, which was
ten feet in diameter, was boiling furiously; and we could see the
steam arising from it, several miles. These springs rise through
volcanic rock ; and large fragments of the same are scattered over
the ground, around them.
At the sink of Marie’s River, the stream is lost in the sand. This
sink is a large sandy marsh, about three miles wide, and ten miles
long, full of buil-rushes, and very miry; the water which it con-
tains, is also warm, and has a very disagreeable taste. From this
point, we traveled up Marie's River, which flows from North East
to the South West, through a sandy plain, almost entirely destitute
of vegetation. This plain is about twenty miles wide, and is bor-
dered on each side, by high, rugged, and perfectly barren moun-
tains. On the lower part of the River, we could find but little grass
for our animals, and we had traveled two hundred miles up it, be-
fore we found water, coming in on either side. Unlike any other
stream, perhaps, it is larger in the middle than any where else ;
it continued to increase in size as we proceeded up, until we came
to where it receives its last tributary. Here we encamped, one
night, in the bend of the river, which we used as a coral, the
guard standing at the entrance. During the night, the animals
made several attempts to rush by the guard; and it was with the
greatest difficulty, that they were able to keep them. In the mor-
ning, we were astonished to find four of them fatally wounded;
they had been shot by the Indians, who had swam across in the
night; we also found several arrows in the encampment, some of
which had evidently been shot at the men. We left one of the
animals dead, in camp, and another was able to go only a half a
mile. The Indians had killed them to eat, and we were determin-
ed to disappoint them as much as possible, by driving those that
were able to travel, away. Aſter we had packed up, two of us re-
mained behind ; and the rest of the company proceeded, taking
all the animals. We then concealed ourselves in the brush, in-
tending to kill, if we could, whoever came to the dead beast. The
company had been gone about two hours, when we saw an Indian
coming towards us. He came within about two hundred and fifty
yards of the point of brush, in which we were concealed; but think-
thinking this rather a long shot, we let him pass, supposing that
he would return to the horse, after having examined the company's

WITH sonſ E OF ITS INCIDENTS. 105
trail, which he seemed to be doing; he was, however, in all pro-
bability, suspicious, and went away, and we saw nothing more of
him, or any other Indians. Having waited half an hour longer,
and finding that he did not return, we left our place of concealment,
and followed the company, three of whom we met, after having
gone about five miles, returning with our horses, to meet us.
Overtaking our companions, we continued to travel up the
river, finding now an abundance of grass in its bottoms and on its
tributaries; which were still very rare. Fifty miles above our
unfortunate encampment, we left the river, and the last of our
wounded animals. About the head of Marie's River, there is a
large extent of country covered with a superior quality of grass;
the stalks, branching out into numerous heads, are loaded with
seeds, which are highly nutritious.
Leaving the valley, we crossed the spur of a mountain, which
was also covered with grass, and came to waters running North,
towards Snake River; and for fifty miles, the country over which
we traveled, afforded excellent grazing. At the termination of
this distance, we came to a spot, containing several acres, full of
small pools of hot water. From these hot pools, we traveled over
a mountainous country, leaving the main range, which was broken
in several places, by deep gaps, several miles to the left, and
between us and the Valley of Snake River. The grass became
less abundant, and as we advanced, a great portion of the country
became quite barren.
At one hundred miles from the Hot Pools, we came to and crossed
the Raft River, which empties into Snake River, twenty three
miles below the American Falls. Thence we crossed the
main range of mountains, South of the Valley of Snake River,
through a large, deep gap, and at thirty miles came to the river, five
miles below the junction of the Portneiff; thence we proceeded to
Fort Hall, a distance of twenty three miles, where we arrived on
the 20th day of June, forty days having elapsed since we left Capt.
Sutter's, in California.
In the whole country between the Eastern base of the Califor-
nia Mountains, and Fort Hall, we saw no game, of any descrip-
tion, excepting a few Antelopes, on the head of Marie's River.
The greater portion of the country, after leaving the head waters
of the Sacramento, is either broken by mountains, or covered
with extensive wastes of sand and volcanic desolation; and can
never be * by a people much superior to the insect and
106 JOURNEY TO FORT HALL.
reptile eating savages, found at the present time upon some of its
Streams. - -
Here we will leave, for a time, the Company from California;
return to the Falls of the Willammette; and ſollow, from that place,
the Oregon Company, until the time when the two, having acci-
dentally met in the mountains, united.*
*For the sake of uniformity of expression, “we” has been used throughout
the previous pages, although it will be perceived by a reference to the intro-
duction, that only Mr. WINTER was in California.


CHAPTER VI. -
RETURN TO THE STATES,
Journey FROM on Egon city. To THE west ERN PART of THE STATE OF
Missouri, witH sonſ E OF ITS INCIDENTS.
Return from Oregon City to the United States—Difficulty with the Walawala
Indians, and timely intervention of Capt. Grant–Meet with Wm. H. Win-
ter, on his return from California, near Fort Hall–Difficulty with the Paw:
nees—Came to the Western settlements of the United States.
On the 19th day of April, 1845, we leſ. Oregon City, for the
United States. Our company, consisting of twelve persons, proceed-
ed, a part by land, with the animals, and a part by water, with
the baggage and provisions. And as the Cascade Mountains were
yet impassable, on account of the snow, it was necessary for
those who went by land, to follow the Columbia River : to do this,
they were compelled to cross over to the North side at Vancouver,
and a part of them re-crossed above the Falls of the Columbia.
They had only a dim Indian trail to follow, which frequently wound
along between rocky precipices and the river; it was sometimes
covered with water, and a great portion of it was over loose frag-
ments of rock, and along the sides of very steep hills and moun-
tains. The streams which empty into the Columbia, were full,
and all conspired to make the way through the Cascade Mountains,
by land, very difficult. The passage by water was, likewise,
somewhat impeded by high winds, strong currents, and the portage
around the Falls. We arrived at the Wascopin Mission on the 1st
of May, where we left our canoes, and packed the baggage upon
our horses. We remained here one day, during which time Mr.
Brewer and his lady, who are connected with the Mission, did
every thing in their power to assist us, and make our stay agreea-
ble. From the Mission, we followed the South bank of the Colum-
bia to Fort Walawala. -
We found the De Chutes and John Day's Rivers too deep to ford,
and were compelled to employ the Indians to take us across them,
in their canoes. When we came to John Day's River, it was late,
-

108 JOURNEY FROM OREGON,
and we encamped. We had been previously informed by the Indians,
in case we should find no person here, that if we would go down to
the bank of the Columbia and fire a gun, those who were on the
opposite side, would come over and assist us. Finding no one
where the the trail crossed the river, in the morning, one of our
party mounted his horse, and rode down to the Columbia; intend.
ing, if he found no one there, to make the signal which we had
been instructed to give. But finding Indians on the same side we
were on, he attempted to make a bargain with them. They pretended
at first, not to understand the language which he spoke, (Chenook,)
but gave him to understand that they had no canoes. After spend-
ing some minutes, endeavoring to pursuade them to do something
for us, an old man walked up to him, grasped his horse firmly by the
bridle, and made signs to him to dismount; at the same time, a
squaw came out of the lodge with a large knife, and stood before
him. He kicked at the Indian, and tried to rein his horse away,
but was unable to release himself. He then drew a pistol from
his belt, cocked it, and threw the muzzle against the Indians
breast; at which, letting go his hold on the horse, and extending
his arms, he sprang back, with an exclamation of terror, to the
door of the hut, and protested that he meant no harm and was only
sporting. He saw no arms, and intended first to rob the man of his
horse; and having succeeded in that, to strip him, probably, of
every thing he had. He did not know that the buckskin coat con-
cealed a pistol, or that there were friends at hand. In a short
time, the rest of us having packed up, followed down to where the
Indians were ; they soon found their canoes, set us over the stream
on our own terms, and became exceedingly friendly and accommo-
dating.
They are always very pleasant and harmless in the presence of
a superior force, with this unvarying exception; they will always
steal any thing and every thing they can lay their hands on, when
they think there is a possibility of concealing, or carrying it away,
without being detected. But where they have the power, their
disposition immediately changes; they are then frowning and in-
solent; and not satisfied with pilfering, they frequently commit
open robberies. Many instances of this have occurred with small
companies of emigrants, on their way down the Columbia; who,
having imprudently separated themselves from the larger com-
panies, and probably parted with their arms, have, some of them,
been plundered; some of them stripped of a good part of their

WITH SOME OR ITS INCIDENTS. 109
clothing, some have been whipped, and others, have been otherwise
insulted, and abused. We heard of an instance, where two men,
who were descending the Columbia River in a canoe, landed, for
some purpose, at an Indian village; and while on shore, an Indian
came up to one of the men, with a dead snake in his hands, which
he was pleased to draw several times across the white man's face.
There are those who would not have borne such an insult tamely.
but it would have been dangerous to have resented. They have
frequently amused themselves, by brandishing their arms in peo-
ple's faces, or presenting them with their drawn bows. They have
never yet taken the life of an emigrant; but, unless they are soon
checked, their insolence will grow to something of a more serious
nature.
Having arrived at Fort Walawala, we learned that an Italian
priest, Father Soderena, then at the Calespel Mission, was exceed-
ingly anxious to return to the United States; and as we were weak,
and glad to receive any addition to our numbers, we consented to
wait until a messenger, who was instantly dispatched from the
Fort, could inform him of our presence, and that we were on our
return to the United States. There being but little grass near the
Fort, and several of the party wishing to trade horses with the
Indians, we moved a few miles beyond Dr. Whitman's Mission,
(twenty-five miles from the Fort,) and encamped. Intending to
turn our stay to the best advantage, by resting and recruiting our
animals, we were careful to select an encampment, where there
was excellent pasturage, and good water, in immediate connec-
tion.
While we were encamped in the neighborhood of the Mission, a
party of twenty or thirty Chiefs and braves, a deputation from the
Walawala, Nez Pierce, and Kious Indians, came, and met in council
with Dr. Whitman, Mr. Spaulding, and other gentlemen connected
with the Mission. They told the Missionaries that the hearts of
some of their people were bad; and the object of the council proved
to be a trial, to ascertain whether Dr. Whitman was not worthy
of death. The charges brought against the Doctor were these:
Yellow Serpent, a Chief of the Walawalas, together with his
son, and a number of his people, went into California in the Autumn
previous, to the time of this council, taking with them a band of
horses, which they intended to trade for cattle during the Winter,
and return in the Spring. While they were in California, a diffi-
culty arose between Elijah—which was the name of the Yellow

1 1 0 JOURNEY FROM OREGON ,
Serpent's son—and an American, concerning a mule which Elijah
said he had caught among the wild horses. The American claim-
ed the mule, and a quarrel ensued. Afterwards, while they were
disputing about the matter, Elijah went away, and got his gun, for
the purpose, as his people said, of shooting a hawk. The Amer-
ican supposed, or at least he said that he was sure the gun was in-
tended for him; and taking the hint, withdrew immediately. This
happened in the camp of the Walawalas.
On the following day, Elijah came to Captain Sutter's Fort,
where the American was ; who, as soon as he saw the Indian en-
ter, determined upon an immediate and more than savage revenge.
Taking his gun, he entered the room where the Indian was sitting,
presented the muzzle to his breast, and told him to prepare to die.
No explanation or defence was permitted. It was said, that the
Indian, who professed Christianity, kneeled to pray; and that,
while engaged in that act of final preparation for another world,
he was shot dead by the American. He was killed in the presence
of his father, who, flying from the Fort, collected his people in-
stantly, and hastened out of the country. They left a great por-
tion of their property, which they feared to take time to collect;
and although it was in the Winter, they rushed on, over mountains
and snows, and through the files and ambuscades of other hostile
tribes, and came, after suffering great loss of property, into their
own country. This affair was frowned upon by almost the whole
white population of Oregon. There were few persons in the
country, unfriendly to the Indian who had been killed. And a
letter was dispatched by the authorities, to the friends of the de-
sceased, and Chiefs of his tribe, offering their services, whenever a
favorable opportunity would present, to regain the property, and
bring the offender to justice. The son of the Yellow Serpent,
had been taught at the Mission, by Dr. Whitman, and had always
been on terms of most intimate friendship with him. But because
his son had been killed by an American in California, the Wala-
wala Chief demanded the life of Dr. Whitman. He argued that
it would be no more than just and equal, since his son was a preach-
er, to take the life of a preacher for satisfaction. This equivalent
they all considered, must be given, in order to make the hearts of
their people good.
In addition to this, they accused him of another crime; which
was, that two Snake Diggers–Indians, living on the lower part of

WITH solº OF ITS INCIDENTS. I 11
snake River, East of the Blue Mountains—had lately been killed
by Americans. This was made an important item in the charge,
although they were not on very friendly terms with the Snake
Indians. The circumstances of this affair, were thus: Two Amer-
icans, who had remained at one of the trading posts, in the moun-
tains, through the Winter, were coming down to the settlements on
Willammette. While traveling up the Brulé River, their horses
were taken, in the night, from their encampment: and in the morn-
ing, they ſound themselves on foot, far from any Fort, Mission, or
settlement; surrounded by mountains, in the midst of an unſeel-
ing people, and without the means of carrying their baggage and
provisions. In this situation, they determined to follow the Indians,
and regain, iſ possible, the horses that had been stolen. Arming
themselves with all the weapons they had, they proceeded on the
track of the horses. They passed by, where one had been killed,
and after several hours of rapid pursuit, came up with the thieves.
They ſound them, with the flesh of the horse they had killed,
packed upon the other. They attempted flight, but the horse was
so loaded that it could not run; and rather than surrender their
stolen property, they presented their guns, and offered battle. Sad-
ly to their discomfiture, their fusees refused to be discharged; but
the rifles of the Americans, were sure and deadly : both of the
Indians remaining with the horse, ſell when they reported, yelled,
and died. The Americans returned to their encampment, with
the horse, placed upon him their baggage and provisions, and
proceeded for Dr. Whitman's, where they at length arrived in
safety.
They were allowed to lodge in one of the Mission houses, and to
eat at the Doctor’s table. This the council also regarded as a crime.
But their object, however, was not to punish ; it was rather to have
an equivalent. They only wished that the Americans should
suffer a loss, as great as their own. Dr. Whitman reasoned with
them, and appealed to them, by every means, which he thought
would tend, in the least, to affect them in his favor ; and so did all
the others; but it was in vain. After a long consultation, by
which they appeared to be not the least shaken in their opinions,
they went away, saying that they themselves, would not disturb
the Missionaries; but, that they could not help, what their young
men might do. After the council was ended, several of our party,
who were present, expressed their opinions to the the gentlemen
of the Mission; saying, that they considered it, both imprudent,

112 JOURNEY FROM OREGON,
and wrong in them, to hazard their own lives, and the lives of
their families, by remaining longer among these people. Dr.
Whitman, who is naturally a man of excellent judgment, and espe.
cially so with regard to mattters relating to the Indians, and who
is, moreover, not to be frightened where there is no cause to fear,
replied, that he also believed, that prudence, and their safety, re-
quired that they should abandon the Mission, for a time, at
least. The same opinion was expressed, by all the other gentle-
men.
Whether there were other causes to excite the Indians to this
step, besides those which they made known, is uncertain. We
would hope, that men professing to love good feeling and good
actions; claiming to be engaged in the same great cause of Chris-
tianizing, and civilizing an ignorant, and barbarous people, would
not, merely because they belonged to different sects, or denomina-
tions, aim at each other's success, by such vile, uncharitable means.
This, and the Catholic Mission on the upper Columbia, are on very
unfriendly terms. We would not give it as our opinion, that these
unfriendly feelings have been carried to such an extreme; but,
there are thousands of instances, in which those professing to be
Christians, have acted towards each other, even as unchristianly.
A good body of soldiers, garisoned in the Walawala Valley,
would not only be of great benefit in protecting the emigrants, and
whoever else might wish to pass through that country, but also to
the Indians themselves. For such a garison would keep them in
awe, and thereby prevent them from committing depredations, for
which they would afterwards have to be punished. They would,
at the same time, protect the rights of the Indians, prevent feuds
from arising between them and the white people, and establish a
peace, and friendship, which would likely be lasting, and beneficial
to both ; favorable to the civilization of the Indians, and to the
promulgation, and extension of Christain principles, among them.
Shortly aſter this occurred, we removed to a small farm, belong-
ing to Mr. McKenley, the Principal at Fort Walawala; situated on
the Hudson's Bay Company's trail to Fort Hall. While we awaited
here, the arrival of the Priest, who would come in company
with Capt. Grant, (then going up to Fort Hall, with a party,
and a large supply of goods and flour) the Chief of the
Walawalas, one evening, came to our camp, with about a dozen
men. Without saying a word, or noticing us when we spoke to
him, he rode between our fires, where we were cooking, and our

WITH sonſ E OF ITS INCIDENTS. 113
baggage; which were only a few feet apart. We told him to go
away; that he was throwing the dust in our victuals; but he
seemed not to hear. He then reined his horse short around one of
the fires, and came near riding over the vessels in which one of
the men was preparing supper. He was told repeatedly to go
away, but was still silent, and heedless. The person who was
cooking at the fire, then took hold of the horse, and endeavored to
lead it away; but the Indian pulled against him, and would not
allow the horse to move. He at last took up a stick, struck the
horse, and drove it out. At this, the Chief became greatly enrag-
ed; talked loudly, and threateningly : he would hear nothing ; and
at length went away in the same mood. Some of the party were
a little uneasy; but the night passed, and we thought but little more
of it. -
We learned that Capt. Grant was near, and sent a messenger, to
tell the Priest, that we would move the next day, and to request
him to join us as soon as possible. The messenger returned, and
informed us, that he had agreed that we should encamp the next
night, at a certain place, with Capt. Grant; where the Priest would
complete his arrangements, and be ready to proceed with us. We
accordingly packed up and started, with the intention of going
to the place agreed on. We, however, missed our road, and after
having gone eight or ten miles, halted to take dinner.
We had just arranged our baggage, &c., and had our animals
grazing near, when we noticed a cloud of dust, away in the direc-
tion from which we came. In a few minutes we perceived that it
was approaching us; and in a very short time more, we saw that
it was nearing us very rapidly : and then heard shouting. We
were convinced that it was the Yellow Serpent, coming to revenge
the insult, which he had forced from us; and no doubt, for the pur-
pose of having an excuse, for making this attack. We hastened to
construct a frail breastwork of our packs; the only materials we
had, out of which we could form something to shield us from the
balls and arrows of the rapidly approaching foe. But we had not
finished our work, before Capt. Grant, who had seen the Indians
coming, and guessed their object, in company with the Priest, and
Mr. Ramo, a Frenchman, and overseer of the Camp, came up to
us at full speed, from nearly the same direction, and a few hun.
dred yards ahead of the Indians. Mr. Grant, we knew, had spent
a great portion of his life among these people, had a powerful in-
fluence over them, and was perſectly acquainted with their char.
15

114 JOURNEY FROM OREGON ,
acter and manners. He advised us to lay aside our arms, assume a
careless demeanor, and trust the event to him; assuring us, at the
same time, that he was confident he could make peace, without any
loss of life or property; both of which were of nearly equalim-
portance to us, in the situation we then were. There was no
time for words, and we yielded to his judgment, superior in such
affairs to ours, and followed his advice. The Indians, about
sixty in number, came yelling, and beating loudly on a kind of a
drum. When within three hundred yards, they separated; the
Chief, with one part, charged up, on the same side of the little
stream on which we were encamped, yelling and flourishing their
arms, and firing in the air ; while the others, on the opposite side,
with the same kind of music, swept away our animals. The Chief,
with his party, reined up against our packs, and formed in a circle
around us; except a few, who continued to fly back and ſoward,
within eight or ten yards of us, yelling, firing and flourishing
their arms. At this instant a hot headed Southerner, seizing his
gun, and crying out that we were betrayed and should sell our
lives as dearly as possible, was just in the act of firing on one of these
yelling theives, but was prevented, by the intervention of some of our
party, and the remonstrance of Capt. Grant. Thus they stood
around us, half naked, painted in the most hidious manner, and
with their arms ready in their hands. The other Indians, having
driven our horses beyond the hills, and performed a war dance, on
one of the neighboring summits, at a signal given by those in our
camp, came charging down with whoop and yell, and thickened the
ranks around us. Our situation was uncertain ; the Chief and
Capt. Grant, with the Frenchman, were engaged in an excited par-
ley, the event of which, we did not know. From the great dispari-
ty in numbers, we were perfectly in the power of our foes, who
could have crushed us in an instant, with a single blow ; which any
act or expression of rashness, or want of boldness, would probably
have brought about.
But the most affecting scene which our confused camp pre-
sented, was that of two little girls, who, trembling with fear, and
in tears, crouched at their father's feet, seemed to implore that pro-
tection from a parent which he could not give. To feel one's self
in the power of a mean and miserable foe, whom he despises, is
maddening; and when so surrounded, powerless, and submissive,
we could not but dream of vengeance, as we looked about us, and
hope to crush, at some sweet future period, those grim frowning

wiTH sonſ E OF ITS INCIDENTS. 115
wretches. After a long consultation, in which the Serpent refer-
ed to the death of his son, and to the two Shoshonees. (Snakes.)
that had been killed, forgetting the many injuries, robberies, and
insults, which emigrants from the United States had suffered from
his people; he agreed to consider the insult canceled, to relu I'm
our horses, and withdraw peaceably, without interrupting us or
our property, upon Capt. Grant promising to give him a green
blanket, and some tobacco. They kept their faith towards us, but
not towards our property; taking advantage of their proximity,
and the disorder, to pilfer whatever they could lay their hands on.
Having regained our animals, and packed up, we followed Capt.
Grant, and joined his camp in the evening. This circumstance
happened on the 20th of May. Having joined with Capt.
Grant, we continued to travel with him, until we reached his
Fort.
At our second encampment on the Brulé River, a Frenchman
and his Indian wiſe came to us, from Fort Boisé. They came ex-
pressly to meet Capt. Grant, having, probably, some message.
The Frenchman told us, that the village near the mouth of the
river, exasperated against the white people, on account of the death
of their friends, would hardly allow him to pass. They debated
among themselves whether they should not kill him; but by the
intervention of his wife, who was of their tribe, and related to
some of the Indians of the village, and as he was not an Ameri-
can, they concluded to spare him. We were aware, that if we
met any of these Indians, they would not be well disposed towards
us; but this timely information put us more on our guard.
On the 30th of May, we crossed the Brulé River, at the village
of the unfriendly Indians. The women and children had fled from
their huts, as soon as they became apprised of our approach; and
here and there on the hills around, we could see them couched
among the sage. They knew that we were Americans, and the
men, standing around in groups, regarded us with angry, and sullen
countenances. But under the circumstances, they were more in
fear than we were, and appeared without their arms. As we pas.
sed, the relations of the two that had been killed, set up a howl of
lamentation, which they continued as far as we could hear.
That evening, we pitched our camps on the bank of Saake
River, three miles distant from the village. Many of the Diggers
came into our encampment, and appeared to be anxious to obtain
some opportunity of revenge. Some of them were carrying their

116 JOURNEY FROM OREGON,
arms, and some had their faces striped, and spotted, with black
and white, the colors of war. Some of them were also harrang-
ing loudly about their misfortune, and telling how bad the Ameri.
cans were, and how very bad were their own hearts. In the eve-
ning, Capt. Grant said to them, through his interpreter, that, as
his countrymen and our's were friendly, and as we had been travel-
ing together, we were then, all like one people, and that whatever
act they committed against one, would be felt equally by the other,
and treated accordingly. At dusk, we brought our animals close,
and tied them up, between the line of our camps and the River.
During the night, we kept up a vigilent guard, and fortunately
were not disturbed.
On the 1st of June, we arrived opposite Fort Boisé, where we
remained four days, while Capt. Grant was re-arranging, and dis-
posing of some of his packs. The Diggers followed us here from
their village on the Brulé. By this time, it was generally known
by the Indians in the neighborhood, that there was a small party
of Americans in their country; and their numbers increasing, about
our camp, gave us reason to suppose, that they still cherished some
hostile intention. We had little fear for our personal safety, but
were somewhat uneasy on account of our animals. We were con-
fident, that iſ they undertook to take them in the night, we must
loose part, at least.
In the evening, Capt. Grant again addressed them, through his
interpreter. In summing up their grievances, they accused one of
the last Emigration, who had his horses stolen, of taking others in
their stead, from an innocent Indian ; and complained, that is was
very bad, in that American, to make one man suffer for what anoth-
er had done. “Very true,” replied the Captain; “I am glad to
“find you agreeing with me. That was a bad man, and you
“would be equally so, were you to make these men, who have never
“injured you, suffer, in any way, for the wrongs and losses you have
“received from others.” To this they would not reply, and he con-
tinued: “He who took your horses, I say, was a bad man, but
“ the men who killed your people did well. Those who were killed
“ were thieves, and they deserved to die. Do you act as they act-
“ed, and you shall be treated in the same manner. If you wish to
* steal any of these horses, it is good. Come this very night.
“You will find many of them loose on the prairie, far from our
“camps. Those only that are swift and strong, we will keep here.
“You need not come for them; we never sleep. But remember

wiTH some of ITS INCIDENTS. 117
is this: if you come, wherever you gº. Yº will follow you. If, in
tº the morning, one of our horses is missing, we will follow you.
we will not only retake our own, but will drive away your's also:
º, we will not be content with destroying your villages; but, in"
tº order to rid ourselves, and every one else, of such thieves and
ºpess, we will wipe you from the face of the earth. Go away
a now, and come to-night if you wish. But remember; I have but
* one tongue. I talk straight.” -
The Indians took him at his word. Our horses, excepting a few:
were allowed to wander, unguarded, over the prairie, but none of
them were disturbed. These people afterwards brought us fish,
and whatever else they had to sell, and we traded with them.
They appeared to have abandoned all idea of disturbing us, and we
had no more difficulty with them.
on the 6th of June, we leſ. Fort Boisé, and traveled up Snake
River, on the South side.
On the 8th, we noticed a Comet in the North West. We obser-
yed it with a common spy glass, and it was so distinct, that we
could not be mistaken. It continued to appear, in the same quar-
ter, for many days.
On the 10th, at the middle of the day, we came to the place,
where emigrants generally cross over to the North side of the river.
There was some demand in our camp for horse-shoes and horse-
shoe nails, and one of the party, who reported himself to be an ex-
cellent swimmer, and at the same time, something of a brave, had
been saying for several days previous, that he knew where a large
lot of such articles had been buried on an island, at this crossing,
and promised, besides, when we came to the place, to swim over
and get them. We now reminded him of his promise. He hesi-
tated a little, but finally consented, by another person agreeing
to accompany him. It was but a short swim to the island, and the
person who went with him made it easily; but he, when he had got
about two thirds of the way over, became frightened, strangled,
and called for help. His companion in the enterprise, assisted him
to the shore, and he began to search for the hidden treasures: but
time had obliterated the marks, either from the place, or from his
memory; and the search was in vain. His companion became sat-
isfied, in a few minutes, and returned; but he who was the leader
in the enterprise, and was such an excellent swimmer, and above
all, who was so brave, shrank from the dangers of another voyage.
He had now, neither confidence in his craft, nor crew. He was
118 Jourº EY FROM of Econ,
lame in his arm, subject to the cramp, short winded, and withal,
a little afraid. He was in a sad condition, perfectly naked, while
the rays of a mid-day sun, were pouring down with a withering inten-
sity. In the shade, he was literally covered with hungry musque-
toes; and out of it, he was blistered by the excessive heat of the
sun. It was an hour, boſore an Indian could get horses to bring
him off; and during this time, he enjºyed all the luxuries, and com-
forts, of his solitary situation, uninterrupted, undivided, and unen-
vied. When he returned, we received him as the Robinson Crusoe
of the camp ; and the Island, in commemoration of the event, was
afterwards the Juan Fernandez of the Desert.
We continued on our way, without interruption, or occurrence
worthy of notice; traveling about twenty miles each day; and
on the 17th, arrived at Fort Hall. Here, and in the camp of Capt.
Grant, we received every assistance, attention, and respect, which
it was in his power to give, or we could desire; contrary to the
treatment we formerly received from him, while on our way to
Oregon. For this kindness and attention, under such circumstan-
ces as those in which we were often placed, we will ever feel the
deepest sense of gratitude, and consider ourselves, under obliga-
tions of no common kind. In this, we are confident, that we ex-
press the sentiments, not only of ourselves, but of every individual
in the company. Yet, while we remember these kindnesses, with
the warnest feelings, justice forbids that we should forget entirely
that other treatment, so contrary.
We remained at Fort Hall one day, in order to rest our animals,
and have the company of a Mexican, who would conduct us by the
shortest route, to the camp of Messrs. Vasques and Smith, (Peg
Leg.) where we hoped to have some addition to our company. We
received a letter at the Fort, written from their camp, and address-
ed to any Company, returning from Oregon to the United States;
stating that there were several persons there, who wished to go
down by the first opportunity, and requesting us to come that way.
We were informed that they had probably gone, but our anxiety
to receive any addition to our numbers, urged us to leave nothing
doubtful.
Our company, excepting two, left Fort Hall on the 19th, for the
Soda Springs. We delayed nearly one day, on the way, waiting
for the two men who were behind; but becoming impatient, we
determined to proceed to that point, by which, we knew they would
have to pass. When we came to the Springs, we ſound that they


WITH 50ME OF ITS INCIDENTS. 119
had arrived already, and were waiting for us. We had prepared
ourselves to talk hard to them, for causing us delay, but the infor-
mation which they brought, was ample to shield them from our
displeasure. There was a company behind, from California.
They were near, and we, of course, halted until they came up.
We were soon to enter a country, inhabited by a powerful, warlike,
and hostile tribe of Indians, the Sioux; and it was with no small
degree of mutual pleasure to us, that a kind Providence, guiding
and guarding, was pleased to unite our small and inefficient forces;
which, when thus united, amounted to only twenty-six persons.
Under such circumstances, especially, as it brought together ſriends
and acquaintances who had passed life's earliest and most cherished
scenes together, and who, before, had long been ignorant even of
the existence of each other. And the event was more thrilling
and impressive, as it occurred in such a wild, gloomy, barren, and
savage country, far away from home and friends, where the hu-
man kind was seldom seen, and when they were, most generally
avoided. We will not describe the scene, but leave it to the
imagination of those who are not destitute of sensibility, and who
cannot but appreciate, in some degree, the feelings which were awa-
kened, by such an occasion.
On the 22d of June, the two companies united, and proceeded,
by moderate traveling, to the camp of Vasques and Peg Leg ; the
former of whom, had left his trading house, for fear of the Sioux
and Shians. We found them several miles from the emigrant's
trail, on one of the branches of Green River; and, as many of
our animals were much fatigued and reduced, we determined to
remain several days.
We found, upon arriving at this place, that those persons who
wrote the letter, which we received at Fort Hall, had met with a
company of traders, and had been gone about twenty days. While
remaining here, we were entertained by accounts of all the parties
that ever had been cut to pieces by the Sioux, all the difficulties
and dangers which the white men, living in the mountains, had
ever encountered by them, and probably a great many more.
We passed, here, the 4th of July, and on the 5th, again pro-
ceeded.
Having crossed Green River, by rafting and swimming, on the
7th of July; in the morning, of the succeeding day, we met the
van of a large Emigration, from whom we learned some of the
principal events, which had occurred in the States, during the past
120 Jourt.NEY FROM of EGON,
year; among which, was the election of Mr. Polk to the Presi.
dency.
In a few days after we had met the Emigration, several of our
party, anxious to travel ſaster than was deemed prudent by the ma-
jority, and unwilling to yield their own opinions, sepa rating from
the company, prºceeded ahead. It is strange, that men so surroun-
ded, on every hand, with danger, and at the same time perſectly
conscious of their situation, should allow little trivial differences of
opinion, to separate them ; exposing their lives on account of a
mere whim, which, at most, does not profess any benefit, worthy
of consideration. But it is so here. If a company is strong and
united, there is no security that it will long continue so; if it
is weak to-day, it is no reason that it will not be weaker to-mor-
I'OW. -
We ſound the Emigration scattered near five hundred miles, and the
number of persons composing it, were about three thousand. They
were in fine spirits, and high hopes, and far ahead of either of the
Emigrations who had gone previously. We ſound Buffalo on Sweet
Water, where we were able, by halting a few days, to recruit our
stock of provisions.
On the 21st, we met a Mr. Sublet, brother to the celebrated moun-
taineer, William Sublet, who informed us, that there was a large
party of Sioux, somewhere below, in the vicinity of the North
Fork, and near the trail; and that eight of them, a few days before had
pursued one of their hunters, within a short distance of their camp.
He gave, as his opinion, that it would be impossible for us to pass
them without their seeing us, and that if they saw us, they would
take our horses, and perhaps our hair, unless we could beat them
in a fight. We were only seventeen men, and to complete the
consolation, there were, probably, about eighty lodges of Sioux :
with which there would be about seven hundred warriors.
We had no alternative, but to proceed with caution. We some-
times traveled in the night, and always smothered our camp fires
before it grew dark; prevented all unnecessary firing of guns,
made our encampments as secluded as possible, and kept the strict-
est watch, both day and night. Under such circumstances, it was
easy to make an Indian spy out of a rock, or a charging war party
out of a whirlwind. We saw their trail, but Providence, our cau.
tion, or their absence, prevented us from seeing them, and them
from sceing us. -
We arrived at Fort Lauramie, without molestation or difficulty,


WITH some OF ITS INCIDENTS. 121
on the 27th of July. Here we were doomed to suffer another
very great diminution in our numbers. The majority of our little
company, having become tired of long traveling, determined to
dispose of their animals, and enjoy a few days of repose, in a place
where they would be confident of security, and free from the toil
and anxiety attendant upon our perilous way. Their intention
was to go across to Fort St. Peters, on the Missouri River, in con-
nection with the American Fur Company's wagons which were to
start in a short time, with Buffalo robes, for that place. The Tra-
ding Companies here, had undertaken to send their robes down the
Platte River in boats, but the River falling, left the broad channel
almost without water, and their scows dry upon the sand. They
were therefore compelled to persue some other course. The Amer-
ican Fur Company were hauling back the loading of their boats to
Fort Laurimie, whence they would take it, in some manner, across
the country to Fort St. Peters, and thence, in batteaux, down the Mis-
souri River to St. Louis. The other Company would take their's by
land, directly to Independence. From Fort St. Peters, our com-
panions were promised a passage on board the Fur Company’s boats,
to whatever point on the Missouri they wished. They arrived in
the States, as we afterwards learned, in safety, but later, by about
a month, than we who came directly by land.
Our little company, now dwindled down to seven persons, had
yet to travel between seven and eight hundred miles, according to
our estimate of the distance, through an Indian country: yet the
reflection that we had passed over the most dangerous part of our
way unharmed, gave us confidence to believe that the same protec-
ting Providence would guide us on and guard us as before.
The Sioux and Shians, who, next to the Black Feet, are the ter.
ror of the mountains, and the tribes which had been the cause of our
greatest dread, were now not so much to be feared. They are most
likely to attack companies beyond Fort Laurimie, and especially
those coming from the West, because they say, they have been tra-
ding with the Snakes, their enemies. Although it was possible
that we might see them between Fort Laurimie and the forks of
the Platte, yet, in this part of their country, we knew they were
much less to be dreaded : And in addition to this, they were begin-
ning to have a much better idea of the strength of the whites.
Formerly they had considered that they were weak, and that their
numbers were very small. When the Emigration of 1843 passed
through their country, they told the traders at Fort Laurimie, that
16

122 JOURNEY FROM OREGON,
they believed it to be the white people's big village, and the last of
the race. Under this belieſ, they entertained serious notions, of go-
ing back, and taking possession of the country which they had aban-
doned. But an Emigration of twelve hundred the following year, and
one of three thousand the present year, had an effect to open their
eyes; and they began to respect their power. Col. Carney's visit
this year, with two or three hundred dragoons, had even made
them to fear a little, and would, we believed, have a tendency to
promote our safety. He had not only passed through the whole
extent of their country, as far as the South Pass, but had called to.
gether, at Fort Laurimie, as great a number of those tribes as he
could; among these were many of their Chiefs and braves, with
whom he held a council; not only warning them of the punish-
ment which they would receive, if they continued to molest
and kill the Americans, but operating on their superstition, by a
display of such things, as to them, were mysterious and supernat-
ural.
After he had had a long talk with the Chiefs, and told them what
he wished them to do, and what not to do, in respect to the white
people passing through their country, he obtained from them a
promise, that they would henceſorth, in these respects, act accor-
ding to his wishes and requests. Having obtained this promise,
which without the addition of ſeat would have been violated as free.
ly as it had been given, he determined to work a little, iſ possible,
upon their superstitions. The dragoons, with all military show,
were paraded, and a field piece rolled out upon the prairie. The
Colonel then proclaimed to the Chiefs and braves, and to all the
Indians assembled, that he was about to inform the Great Spirit of
their promise, and call him to witness the covenant which they
had made. He bade them look up and listen. A sky-rocket rose
in the air, and darting away on its mission, had almost buried itself
in the bosom of the sky, when it burst, flashed in the heavens, re-
ported to the Great Mysterious, resolved itself again into its airy
form, and the errand was accomplished. Another, and another;
three of the firy messengers arose in succession into the presence
of the Great Spirit, and announced to him, that the Sioux and
Shians had entered into a solemn covenant with a Chief of the
white people, to be their friends, and to respect forever their lives
and property. While they stood, with all the awe which ignorance
and blind superstition could inspire, gazing into the heavens,
where, just now they had been luminous with the mysterious display,

WITH SOME OF ITS INCIDENTS. 123
a cannon was discharged; and while its deafning thunder shook
the field, the ball flying, far away along the plain, bounding and
rebounding, tore the earth, and marked its dusty track with clouds.
“That,” said the Colonel, “was to open your ears, that you might
not be deaf to what I am about to say. Can you hear!” “Yes,”
replied the Chiefs, “we can hear.” The second was discharged,
roaring still louder than the first; and the ball again proved the
power of the mighly engine that sent it. “Can you hear, I say!”
demanded the Colonel. “Yes,” they replied, a little submissively,
“we can hear well.” Again the cannon told, still louder. Three
times it thundered in their ears. “Can you hear!” reiterated the
Colonel. “I say, can you hear!” We are not deaſ; we can hear
well; our ears are open. Speak. Let the great Chief of the white
people speak whatever he wishes.”
Col. Carney addressed them. “I am,” said he, “very little.
“The Great Chief of the white people is aſar : he is in the bosom
“of a mighty nation; and his warriors around him, are like the
“grass upon the prairie, or the sands which cover the plains. He
“told me to go and talk to the Sioux and Shians, and I obeyed him.
“I am here. A thousand Chiefs who are mightier than I, wait to
“do his commands. He loves his friends, and is kind to them, but
“to his enemies, to those who destroy the lives of his people, he is
“dreadful. As the storm when it walks upon the mountains, and
“treads down the pines, so terrible are the warriors of the Great
“Chief, when they come upon their foes. Beware then, lest ye
“make him angry. Think before you break the pipe, which we
“ have smoked together in friendship. Think well before you vio-
“late the covenant you have made with me and with my people, and
“to which we have called the Great Spirit to witness. Talk to your
“young men; counsel them that are foolish; tell them that
“we are mighty, and terrible in war. Bid them pause, and think,
“and tremble, before they spill again the blood of a white man.
“The past we will forget; it is buried. We will soon return to our
“homes, with the tidings of peace: but when we hear that your
“hands have spilt one drop more of the blood of our countrymen,
“we will come again. We will come with war. We will re-
“venge all the wrongs that we have ever received. Then your
“eyes shall not be dry from weeping over your fallen warriors,
“ and the blood of your nations shall not cease to flow, until we
“are weary from destroying. You say that you can hear. We
“will see. Be careful that your ears do not forget.” They all
answered, “It is good.” -
124 JOURNEY FROM OREGON,
Such, we believe, is about the sense, in which we understood Mr.
Bisonette, describing the treaty made by Col. Carney, with the
Sioux and Shians. He is one of the principal partners in the
neighboring trading establishment, Fort Platte, and we presume
that it is mainly correct. He gave us, as his opinion, that for a
time, it would have a favorable influence over the conduct of the
Indians; but that it would soon be forgotten, and disregarded, and
that nothing but a strong military post, located in their country,
could keep them in awe, and make the lives of Americans, safe
among them.
Our little company, after a short delay, continued down the
North Fork. On the 3d of August we approached the spot, where
Mr. Adams was remaining, in charge of a large quantity of
Buffalo robes, the cargo of one of the boats which had ſailed in
descending the River. He was awaiting the arrival of wagons
from Mr. Bisonette, to convey them to the States. As soon as we
came in sight of Mr. Adams, we saw a village of Sioux coming, at
the same time, from another direction. They arrived a few
minutes before us, and were engaged in pitching their lodges when
we came up. When we were yet half a mile off, we found two
young Indians, sitting beside the road, who rose up, and gave us
their hands in token of friendship; and then making signs to us to
proceed, they led the way, to where their village was encamping,
beside Mr. Adams.
We had been discovered by them from the hills on the South,
out of which they came ; and the two young men had been dis-
patched by their Chief, to ascertain our character, and to conduct
us, if friends, of which they of course had little doubt, to the
village.
Without dismounting, we delivered to Mr. Adams, a letter from
Mr. Bisonette; enquired whether we would probably fall in with
any of the Sioux below, and whether with the Pawnees; and
what, in his opinion, would be their disposition towards us, in case
we should. We smoked with the Chief, and after a few minutes
conversation with Mr. Adams, from which we could determine
nothing satisfactorily, we again turned into the trail, and continued
down the river.
The Indians treated us with great civility. They did not crowd
around, when we stopped, to pilſer and beg, as Indians generally
do about a small party.
When we passed by their encampment, as we were leaving, the


w lºſ H so ME or ITS INCIDENT3. 125
women and children, with some of the young men, came out and
stood by the side of the road; and the Chief, and a few of the old
men, walked with us three or four hundred yards, in hopes of re-
ceiving presents; yet without being importunate. We gave them
a little tobacco, and a few other trifles, excusing ourselves for the
smallness of our gifts, by telling them that we had traveled very
far, and were then poor. They appeared satisfied, gave us their
hands and returned.
We encamped a few miles below, and remained about th ree hours,
but none of them came near us. Knowing the disposition of the
people we were among, and their uncertainty, we deemed it pru-
dent, however, to make the distance between us greater, before the
next morning. But they were the last that we saw of the Sioux
Indians; and from what cause they were induced to treat us with
so much civility, we are uncertain. We attributed it, at the time,
to Col. Carney's treaty with them, and to the imposing display
which he exhibited. -
Not having provided ourselves very abundantly with meat,
while on Sweet Water, and not having seen any game on the
North Fork, we began to be ſearful, that we should not be able to
procure provisions enough to last us in. But on the 5th of August,
crossing over to the South Fork, we found the valley and hills
beyond, covered with thousands and thousands of Buffalo. We
therefore pitched our camp, on the bank of the river, in the most
convenient place we could find, and prepared to “make meat.”
On the following morning, two of the best riders and marksmen
were selected, and mounted on the strongest and fleetest horses.
Having divested themselves of the greater part of their clothing,
and whatever else they could spare that would tend to add weight
or gather the wind, and being armed with guns and pistols, they
proceeded towards the nearest band, which would have numbered,
perhaps, about a thousand. They rode along slowly, taking ad-
vantage of the wind, until they saw the band begin to notice them :
then putting spurs to their horses, they urged the chase at full
speed across the plain. Others followed at a less rapid rate, with
loose animals, to bring in the meat.
We supposed that some of the largest of these Buffaloes were
nearly seven feet high, and would probably weigh more than two
thousand pounds.
It was a grand scene to look upon; that vast, living flood, moving
on towards the hills, throwing huge clouds of dust into the air, and

126 Journey FROM of Egon,
shaking, with their heavy tread, the very earth. The horsemen
gained; and entering the band, which gave way at their approach,
and closed around them, they spurred to gain the lead, where
the fatest and best Buffalo are always found. Their guns reported
rapidly—the herd rushed on, swelling over the alternate hills, until
the cloud of dust that marked their course, faded in the distance,
and three fine Buffaloes lay stretched along upon the border of the
valley. The hunters halted around their prey, butchered it, and
the packmen came and bore it to the camp, where we cut it into
thin slices, and dried it in the sun; having done which, we again
proceeded down the South Fork.
But not being yet sufficiently provided for, we averaged our
daily distance of about twenty-five miles, by traveling a large por-
tion of the night; laying by in the middle of the day, when the
sun was most powerful, to kill and dry meat. We continued this
method of proceedure until we had supplied ourselves with pro-
visions, and then again traveled as usual.
When we came to the junction of the Platte, we found a vast
herd of Buffalo, almost covering the valley. They were so thick,
that, in many places, they blackened the earth for hundreds of
acres. The lowest estimate made in our camp, of the number of
that single herd, was, we believe, one hundred thousand, and it was,
probably, much greater. During the time that we were passing
them, in which we traveled about ten miles, the partially detached
or smaller herds extending out from it, became frightened, as we
proceeded, and kept pouring across our path, about two hundred
yards before us, in an almost constant stream. Besides this, the
hills were spotted in every direction, as far as the eye could reach,
with bands of Buffalo. Such vast herds are, however, uncommon.
Afterwards we ascertained the cause, as we thought, of their being
assembled in such vast numbers.
On the morning of the 13th, about two hours before day, while
we lay encamped upon the bank of the Grand Platte, we heard a
drum beating below us, on the river. We were sure that it was
the Pawnees; and, besides, that they were in great numbers, as
they were on the middle ground, between their own country and
that of the Sioux, where they never come, except in strong par-
ties. We, therefore, made all possible haste to get under way, in
order to pass them before they should discover us.
Having traveled a few miles, we passed through a large encamp:
ment, which had been leſt only a very short time; and all along

WITH SOME OF ITS INCIDENTS. 127
the road, and on every side, there were fresh signs of a large body
of Indians; and we had not proceeded much farther, before we
were favored with still stronger proofs of it. We saw an Indian
gliding along across the prairie, in a direction to meet our course,
and then another, and again another, until they were nearly double
our number.
They tried in every way to detain us: they endeavored to per-
suade us to go across to their village, at which, they said, there
were fifteen hundred of their people. We refused, and they told
us that there were a great many Buffalo a short distance below;
that they intended to surround them the next day, and that they
did not wish us to go on and frighten them. To this, although we
were sure it was false, we replied, that we had an abundance of
meat and would not disturb them; and continued still to move on at
a rapid rate. They then began to threaten, and finally, finding all
of no avail, they rushed out towards the river several hundred
yards, and began yelling and throwing up their blankets into the
air. In a ſew minutes aſter this signal was given, we saw two
or three long columns of mounted men emerge from the brush
along the bank of the river, and come at full speed towards us.
We had but a moment to counsel. Retreat was folly, since it would
be impossible for us to gain any shelter, or advantageous place,
before they would be on us. To fight, in the open prairie, against
such odds—for there were more than forty to one, and would have
been supported by four times that number--would have been madness.
The only alternative left, was to wait the event, and be ready for
the worst. There was a possibility that in this way, by proper
management, we might avoid serious difficulty; any other would
have been certain destruction. We were, however, determined, of
course, to defend our lives and property as best we could, in the
last extremity.
Three hundred armed men rushed up and surrounded us. Stand-
ing with our backs together, that we might see them draw, and be
ready to return the blow, though feebly, when they struck, we
watched their tone and movements. They seemed to differ, and to
be undecided. Some appeared strongly inclined to insult and
abuse; others checking these, seemed to require time to de-
cide. After the expiration of some minutes, an old Indian
came up, passed through the crowd, which gave way at his ap-
proach, and handed us a ſolded paper. We read it. It purported
to be from the Indian Agent, and was addressed to white people,

| 28 Journºy From on Egon,
passing through that country. It stated that this Indian, who called
himself. White Man, was a Chief of the Pawnees, and had pre-
viously saved the lives of a small party from the United States, and
returned them their property, which had been taken from them by
some of the young men of his tribe; that he was a friend to the
white people and the writer desired those who might meet with
him, to make him presents.
This Chief also requested us, to go over with them to the vil-
lage; telling us the same story which had been told by those who
first came to us, that there was a herd of Buffalo below, and that
he did not wish us to firighten them away, since he intended to sur-
round them on the following day.
From the character which the paper of the Agent gave the
Chief, and from his venerable and friendly appearance, we were
now almost persuaded to believe their story about the Buffalo. We
hesitated for a moment, and some spoke in favor of going with
them to their village. We had never seen Indians making “a
surround,” and our anxiety urged us strongly. We thought how
grand a scene it would be, to see fifteen hundred Pawnees, armed
and mounted, after having formed in a circle around a large herd
of Buffalo, close in upon them, with whooping, yelling, and firing ;
and then to see them, after the affrighted herd had scattered, cover
the plains aſar, with the confused, tumultuous, and excited chase;
the whirling clouds of dust; the huge animals that had fallen, lay-
ing about on every side ; the wild uproar, and the reckless eager-
mess of the half naked pursuers. Some thought less of look-
ing on, but imagined how glorious it would be, all mounted, armed
and flying over the level plain, to mingle in the tumult, pull down
the mighty game, and be an Indian for an hour. Had not our
homes and friends rose up against this curiosity, and urged us to pro-
ceed, we would have gone with the Pawnees to their village, been
disappointed in seeing the anticipated sport, and probably, after
having been stripped of everything we had, would have been insul-
ted and abused.
Our desire to hasten on prevailed, and we replied in the same man-
ner as before; told them that we had far to go, and did not wish
to delay; and further, that if he was unwilling to trustus, he
might send some of his people along, until we had passed the Buffa.
lo, to see that we did not disturb them. He finally consented to
this, and we now considered that we were safe. We smoked with
the Chief, as a mutual pledge of friendship, made him such presents

witH some of ITS INCIDENTs. 129
as our situation and circumstances would afford, and departed, ac-
companied by twenty-two of his ren.
Having gone about ten miles, we halted, and unloaded our ani-
mals, that they might eat and rest, as we had been traveling at a
rapid rate, from early in the morning until now, which was about
the middle of the afternoon.
We expected to part with the Indians here, and therefore open-
ened our bales and offered them something to eat, which they re-
fused to accept, saying they had plenty in their camp. And as
soon as our bales were opened, and our baggage scattered, they
began taking whatever they could lay their hands on. We saw
now that they intended to robus, and knowing that it would not do to
yield to them in the least, we regaired what they had taken, with
as little force as possible. They feared us, and yielded; but threat-
ened, saying that they would take away every thing we had. We
showed them our guns in reply. Hastily reloading our animals,
with our arms in our hands, we mounted, pointed them to the back-
ward track, and took the other ourselves.
There was an old Indian who ſollowed us a short distance, and ei.
ther from friendship, or a desire to learn what course we intended
to pursue, told us, with a great pretension of regard for our safety,
that “it was good for us not to sleep,” but to continue traveling, “af-
ter the sun had gone down :” that some of their young men “had
bad hearts,” and were “very angry;” and that they would follow
and attack us in the night. We expressed our thanks for his kind-
mess, without intimating our intentions, and left him.
We had not seen a single Buffalo, nor did we afterwards; and
we thought that this was only a scheme they had laid, to get us
into the village, where they might strip us more effectually, and
without our knowing who did it; and that finding we would not go
willingly, they consented to our proposal, thinking that three times
our number, would be sufficient to accomplish their object. They
probably considered, in addition to this, that by the method which
they adopted, the tribe would avoid the responsibility of the act.
As the greater portion of those who came to us, had gone away
professing friendship, they would, with some degree of probability,
have deem able to assert their ignorance, of any intention on the
part of those who went with us, to commit a robbery. It was our
opinion, that they did not wish to take our lives, if they could ob.
tain our property without; and especially if they could do so by
means, in which the tribe would not seem, generally, to participate.
17

130 JOURNEY FROM OREGON,
Could they have destroyed us entirely, without any possibility of
detection, they would have been very willing to have done it; but
they had made like attempts severals times before, and failed; they
were now a little fearful, for they had been threatened by officers
of our government, and had, from experience, some conſidence in
their ability to execute. Had we gone to their village, they might
have stolen almost everything that we had, and in such case, all
would have been innocent. Had the twenty-two succeeded, they
only, and not the tribe, would have been criminally responsible.
We had no doubt but that all were perfectly acquainted with the
intentions of the party that undertook to robus, and would have
been sharers to some extent in the booty; and that, had they con-
sidered a failure at all probable, they would have adopted some
other surer method of procedure.
The Pawnees were descending the river, and all appearances
favored the opinion, that they had been the cause of the great as-
semblage of Buffalo at the forks of the Platte. Having passed the
great band a short distance, very few others were aſterwards seen,
although the whole valley, on the South side, had been trodden re-
cently, by numerous herds. -
That we might not fall into their hands again, we concluded to
follow the old Indian's advice; and that we might decieve him also,
we determined to do more; and having halted a little before sun-
down, to take supper and allow our animals to graze, we proceeeded,
following the road until it was quite dark, when we left it, and
bore off to the South, until we entered the hills: we then turned
again, and followed the direction of the river, steering our course
by the stars, until after midnight. We then halted and slept till
morning without food or water.
As soon as it was light, we again londed our animals, and steer-
ed across the plains for the waters of the Kanzas, which we thought
we could reach in a day's travel.
About 12 o'clock we began to differ about the course we were
traveling, and came near separating, but finally agreed by chang-
ing it a little; and in the evening, after having traveled about forty
miles, we came to a tree, by a small brake that ran towards the
the East, in which we found a pool of water, and stopped for the
night.
The way across, between the Platte and the waters of the Kan-
zas, before the emigrants had made a beaten track, had always
been considered very difficult to find. The distance at different

witH SC ME OF ITS INCIDENTS. 131
places, varies between twenty five and fifty miles; the country is
level and monotonous, and has not a single lanti-mark, by which
the traveler may be guided. Many persons much more experien-
ced on the prairie than we, had been lost in attempting to pass from
one stream to the other; and the country, from this circumstance,
had obtained the name of “The Lost Ground.” The Catholic
Priest, who was still with us, being a foreigner, and not at all ac-
customed to moving at random, without track or guide, through
such wilds, became alarmed at our situation, and declared he was
certain that we should never find the trail, and he would be very glad,
he said, to give every thing he possessed, to see again the track of
a wagon. We were fortunate in changing our course, for if we
had not done so, we should have missed entirely, the head of Little
Blue River, and would have been compelled to travel another day,
and perhaps longer, before we would have come to another stream.
This fortunate circumstance—-finding the pool--was highly pleasing
to us. It had been nearly twenty-four hours since we had drunk
water, and we had been traveling rapidly during the day, over the
dry plains and through the hot sun. We noticed, in the course of
the day, that our voices became much changed, from lack of mois-
ture, and as we refrained from eating, also, there was a feeling of
emptiness in the stomach, peculiar, and very disagreeable. When we
came to the pool, our parched lips did not stop to question the quality
of the water: and our animals were equally as eager as ourselves:
they plunged into it, and we were compelled to drag them away
to prevent them from killing themselves. The person whose turn
it was to guard during the day, was obliged to watch the pool al-
most constantly, in order to keep the animals from drinking too
much. We climbed into the tree with our hatchets, and trimmed off
the dry limbs, which furnished us sufficient fuel to cook with ; and
in a very short time, we had banished both hunger and thirst, and
feeling secure in our secluded and unfrequented position, we con-
trasted this present comparatively comfortable and safe condition,
very pleasantly with the past.
In the morning we followed the breaks until they joined with oth-
ers, and finally brought us to a deep dry channel, along which
there was timber ; it continued to increase in size; as we proceed.
ed down, and on the 16th of August, about the middle of the day
we came again to the emigrant's trail, and knew that it was the
Little Blue River, down which we had been traveling.
We saw no more of the Pawnees, and on the 22d we crossed the

132 JoJº MEY FROM of EGox.
Big Blue River, and came into the country of the Kanzas Indians,
from whom we had nothing to fear so long as we kept a strict
guard; which we never ſailed to do in an Indian country.
On the 24th, we met a small company bound for California, and
on the 25th, the wagons of Messrs. Adams & Bissonette, Indian tra-
ders, of Fort Platte.
On the 27th, we crossed the Kanzas River; where, finding the
water too deep to take our baggage on our horses, we were com-
pelled to carry it over on our shoulders.
On the 29th, late in the night, we passed the boundary line, be-
tween the States and the Indian Territory, and encamped near
West Post, Missouri, having become lost and bewildered among
the roads and fences, to which we were unaccustomed. The dark-
ness of night hid every mark of civilization when we came ; and
we slept, without appreciating the change. We awoke with the
rising sun, to look upon fields, orchards, gardens, houses and villa-
ges; our country and our countrymen.
Note—By a little inadvertency this Chapter was numbered the same as the
preceding one; it will be perceived that it should be VII.

CHAPTER VIII.
GENERAL VIEW OF OREGON AND CALIFORNIA,
Concluding remarks, giving a brief but general view of Oregon and Califor-
nia as regards the Agricultural, Manufacturing, and Commercial advantages
of those countries, &c., &c.
As we have now completed our explorations in both Oregon and
California, we will make a few remarks upon their fitness for the
occupancy, and various uses of civilized man.
As we have already said, the climate, in Oregon and California,
is far milder and more agreeable, than it is in the same parallel of
latitude, any where on the Eastern side of the American continent.
There is, we think, a difference of perhaps 10 or 12 deg. We
suppose that some may think this difference too great, but when
they recollect that animals can live well through the winter, in
Oregon, in the 47th deg. of North latitude, and that scarcely any
snow falls during this season of the year; and that that which does
fall, even in this high latitude, lays but a very short time, in the
lower and more productive valleys; and that good beef is often
killed in mid-winter from the grass, any where between the Cascade
Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, South of the Columbia River;
and then recollect what the Winters are in the United States, even
as far South as the 25th deg. North, we are inclined to believe, that
most, if not all, will be ready to believe, that we are nearly correct
in regard to this matter.
As the farmer's stock can live well all winter, not only through-
out California, but through nearly the whole of Oregon, he will
here possess one advantage that he can never have East of the
Rocky Mountains, except in the most Southern part of the United
States; consequently, he will not be compelled, as he is in most
parts of the great and fertile Valley of the Mississippi, to labor six
months to produce grain and provender, to ſeed out, at the CXpense
of another six months labor, to his stock. And there is not only
in the territory of Oregon, but also in the province of California,
another great advantage, that is, indeed, paramount to all others:

-
134 GENERAL VIEW OF
which is, health. Those countries, with the exception of a few
small localities, are, beyond all doubt, and must ever remain, Very
healthy. Some of the causes which make them so, must be obvious
to all, who become acquainted with those countries. They are high,
dry, rolling, mountainous, and well watered with the purest springs
and streams; and come the wind from whatever point it may, it
must ever be free from miasma and disease, as it always comes,
either from snow clad mountains or passes over the pure and un-
tainted waves of the briny Ocean.
There is, however, one drawback to the mild, and otherwise
pleasant winters, over a large portion of the countries we
have seen and discribed; on the western shores of our conti-
ment: which is, the great amount of dark, cloudy, and rainy weath-
er, through most of the winter season. The rains, however, as
it has already been seen, do not generally fall in heavy showers,
but are, mostly, gentle and light, and often, nothing more than
heavy mist. We are inclined to believe, that little if any more
water falls there, in the winter, than falls in most parts of the
Mississtppi Valley; with this difference, that there it is rain instead
of snow.
In those countries, as in the Mississippi Valley, the winters do, in
some degree, vary. When compared with the winters East of the
Rocky Mountains, they are always mild ; yet some are more so
than others, and some are much dryer than others. The first
winter we passed, West of the mountains, was milder, dryer, and
much more agreeable than the second; indeed, there was much of
the first that was dry, sunny, and agreeable, beyond anything we had
ever before witnessed. The second was more rainy and disagree-
able. But as far South as the Bay of San Francisco, in California,
it is never colder, even in the winter, than to produce heavy white
frost.
We believe that small grains of every description, that are rais-
ed in the United States, will grow well, and produce abundantly,
throughout Oregon, and over all the Upper or Northern portion of
California. So also, will the grasses; but Indian Corn never will,
as the nights are too cool in Summer, over all those regions, for
the thrifty growth and proper ripening of this grain; it can, how-
ever, be raised in small quantities, but the farmer there, can never
grow it to much profit.
The Willammette Valley is, perhaps, the largest district of pro-
auctive country in Oregon. Something more than two thirds of it is

on EG ON AND CAL FORNI.A. 135
open, or prairie land, and the largest part of this is rich; the prai-
ries, indeed, generally, through the country, when turned up by
the plow, make very much the same black, rich appearance, they
mostly bear in the Mississippi Valley; some doubt, however, their
being as durable, as there seems to be a great absence of lime.
Near one third of this valley is timbered, and the timber is mostly
good, and as it furnishes great manufacturing, as well as agricul-
tural privileges, it would be capable of sustaining, were every por-
tion of it made to yield to the best advantage, a population of near-
ly a million of souls.
The Umqua Valley is, perhaps, three-fourths prairie. The
Rogue's River Valley, two-thirds, and the Clamuth, four fifths.
In many places through these several valleys, the prairies are of
convenient size to be entirely settled and cultivated; in others
they are so large that it will be inconvenient; but as the neighbor-
ing mountain lands, are, with few exceptions, thickly clothed with
the finest timber in the world, they will, in time, all be brought in-
to cultivation.
North of the Columbia, and West of he Cascade Mountains,
there is, perhaps, not more than one third of the country that is
not timbered, and much of it stands so thick on the ground, is
so tall and large, that it will not only make lumber most abun-
dant in the country, but it must long, iſ not always, be capable
of furnishing immense quantities for exportation.
The valleys, through this portion of Oregon, are smaller than
they are, South of the river; here the country has more broken,
mountain, waste land, and consequently it cannot sustain so large
a population. It is thought, that considerable portions of the tim-
bered land between the Cascade Mountains and the Pacific, both
North and South of the Columbia, is good for cultivation, though
mostly, if not always, much inferior in point of productiveness, to
the prairie lands.
The Cawlitz Valley, North of the Columbia, like the Willammette,
South, furnishes, perhaps, the largest valley of land, suitable for
cultivation, between the Cascades and the Ocean; but on the
North, as well as the South side, there are many other smaller
valleys, besides these, capable of sustaining considerable settle-
ments; which will, altogether, in time, when all that can, is made
to yield, furnish agricultural products, sufficient to sustain a popu-
lation of some millions.
And through this whole region of country, many of the hills

136 GENERAL view of
and mountains, will ſurnish the best, and healthiest pastures for
sheep; and there cannot be a doubt, but that hundreds of thousands
of these useful animals, can be kept in the finest condition, be-
tween the Cascade Mountains and the Pacific; to furnish the
factories that are destined to rise up at no far distant day, in
this great world of water power, with heavy fleeces of the finest
wool.
Should the United States maintain her claim to the entire Terri-
tory of Oregon, she will then have Puget's Sound, the second best
Harbor on the Western shores of America, and a considerable
district of country around it, said to be good; besides the whole
of Vancouver’s Island, which, of itself, is capable of sustaining a
considerable colony; but as it is most likely that the 49th parallel
of latitude will be the boundary settled upon, as the Northern limit
of our territory, it is doubtful whether we will possess the fine
Harbor of Puget's Sound, and we shall not have more than one
third of Vancouver’s Island.
The country East of the Cascade Mountains, and laying between
them and the Blue Mountains, is an excellent grazing country.
Immediately on the streams, and along the base of the mountains,
there are many narrow strips of fertile land, suitable for cultiva-
tion, and these portions of rich soil, though small when compared
with the entire country containing them, (not more, we think, than
one tenth part,) will probably be enough to grow a sufficiency of
agricultural products, to sustain a large grazing population. And
that this country will, at some future day, be filled with such a
population, there cannot be a doubt; as it contains, in most places
over all the country known as a the Walawala Valley, an abun-
dance of the most nutritious grass, so that, within the bounds of
this valley, great numbers of stock can be kept through the year;
and although the valley contains no timber, with the exception of
Cotton Wood along some of the streams, as the neighboring moun-
tains are mostly well timbered, and as a large portion of the tila-
ble land lies immediately along the base of the mountains, and con-
venient to the timber, most of the farms could be furnished with
it very readily. But those that might be improved on the
streams, would, most of them, have to be furnished with the nec-
essary timber, at the expense of much labor, as it could only
be had from the mountains, at a distance, in some places, of many
miles.
Inasmuch as there is a river called Walawala, some might sup-

Cºor, alº D. C.A. LIrCT.N.I.A. 13?
pose the valley bearing the name, to be the valley of that stream,
and that, therefore, the manner in which we have spoken of it is
incorrect; but upon noticing particularly our description, and find-
ing that not only the Walawala, the Snake River, and many other
smaller streams, but that the great Columbia itself, runs through it,
they will at once see that the valley has not obtained its name from
the river, but that the name applies to a portion of country bound-
ed by high mountains, both on the East and West, and stretches
North and South some three hundred miles, covering an area
equal to twelve or fifteen thousand square miles. This large dis-
trict of country is not only good for raising and keeping horses,
mules, and cattle, but it will be very good for sheep also, as great
numbers of them can be raised and kept in the finest and healthiest
condition.
This valley has, also, much water power.
The Blue Mountains, which form the Eastern boundary of the
Walawala Valley, cover an extent of country about seventy-five
miles broad, and are, we believe, about nine-tenths timbered;
through these mountains there are numerous small valleys, fur-
nishing in many places, good soil, and every where fine pasture,
upon which stock of every description can be kept in good condi-
tion throughout the year. But as the valleys in the mountains do
not, perhaps, cover more than one twentieth of the whole area,
this portion of country could only sustain a sparse population, and
keep a limited amount of stock.
The entire country East of the Blue Mountains, including the
Rocky Mountains and a broad belt of country some five hundred
miles wide, East of them, embracing altogether a tract of sorce
one thousand or eleven hundred miles broad, is, with the exception
of some small spots—widely, very widely separated from each oth-
er, a vast and dreary desert—a sandy, dusty, rocky waste.
Over much of this desert region, there are large dusty tracts, on
which there is almost no vegetation. These dusty regions bear
much the appearance of ashes and burnt earth, mixed.
The small spots of productive soil that are scattered over this
great desert of America, cannot amount to much if any more than
one thousandth part of the whole. From which it will be seen,
that it is better calculated to sustain small bands of savages living
after the manner of the wandering Arabs, than any fixed popula-
tion of agriculturalists.
South of the Snowy Butte, which is not for from the parallel of
18 -

138 . GENERAL view or
42 deg. North, to the head of the Sacramento Valley, a distance of
one hundred miles, the country is entirely covered with timber.
It is mountainous, and contains no land fit for cultivation ; and al-
though much of the timber in these mountain regions is of excel.
lent quality, it is so far removed from the extensive plains of Cal-
ifornia, laying far South, that it can never be taken to them to
make enclosures for farms; and much of the country where it
grows, is so exceedingly broken, that it will be difficult to take it
out for any purpose. But from many parts of this extensive tract
of timber, immense quantities can and will be taken out in lumber
for all purposes, and used in many distant parts of the province;
and by way of the Sacramento, it may be taken into the Bay of
San Francisco, and from the thence wherever wanted.
The Sacramento Valley, which probably contains about ten
thousand square miles, is nearly or quite, one-third timbered
and one-half suitable for cultivation. Much of the soil is very
fertile.
From the Bay of Francisco to Monte Rey, and between the Cali-
fornia Mountains and the Coast, including the Valley of St. Wa-
kine, covering an area of near twenty thousand square miles,
there is not more than one-tenth of the country timbered; but
nearly one half is fit for tillage, with some very pooductive
lands.
From Monte Rey to the Lower Puebla, embracing the Southern
portion of Northern or Upper Coliſornia, there is, perhaps, not
more than one-hundredth part of the land timbered, and one-twen-
tieth, suitable for cultivation; but there is a much greater portion
good for grazing.
The Sacramento and St. Wakine Valleys, furnish much the lar-
gest body of good country in California. Indeed from the health
of this country, which is good beyond all doubt: from the great
mildness of the climate; the fertility of much of its soil, and the
great commercial advantages it will have, by means of the
noble Bay of San Francisco; it must, at no distant day, become
a very desirable, if not the most desirable country on the Conti-
ment.
When it is recollected, as we have heretofore stated, that over
a large portion of Upper California, fresh meat will keep good,
hung in the open air, at any season of the year, for several days
together, without salt; there can be no doubt of the great purity
of the atmosphere, and consequent health of the country.
OREGON AND CALIFORNIA- 139
Most of the Northern portion of the Province has a sufficiency
of good water power; but in the South, the supply is less abun-
dant: and in some parts, it is very deficient.
When this Province shall have been settled, by an indus.
trious and enterprising population, disposed to avail them.
selves of all the advantages which Nature has so bounti-
fully spread out, over this country; it will be covered with
vast multitudes of stock of all kinds; the upper country will
become a manufacturing district, and every where, on and
around the extensive Bay of San Francisco, the most active
and extensive commercial operations will be constantly going
On.
But no country of which we have any knowledge, is so fitted by
nature to become one great manufacturing region, as the territory
of Oregon. It has every where, over it, an abundance of never
ſailing water power, sufficient to propel machinery of any kind and
to any amount; and as we have already said, all parts of the terri-
tory are suitable for raising the finest sheep, (not excepting the bes
ever reared in Spain,) and over this country sufficient numbers can
and will be raised, to keep the numerous and extensive factories in
constant operation.
But little is yet known of the minerals of the country. Some
lead and iron have been discovered; and iſ an intimate acquain-
tance with the country shall discover an abundance of the metals,
then will there be nothing wanting, to make Oregon one of the
greatest manufacturing countries in the world, but the necessary
population and capital; both of which, time and the enterprise of
our countrymen, will give. And, although much of it is rocky and
mountainous, and every where over it, are strong and evident marks
of powerful, and not very remote volcanic action; as the country
is very healthy, the climate mild, and the volcanoes, from appear-
ances, mostly, if not all except Mount St. Helen, extinct; we think
the day not distant, when it will be sufficiently peopled to carry on
extensive manufacturing and commercial operations. And as it is
situated for carrying on a direct trade with the South Sea Islands,
all the countries on the Western shores of South America, and
with China, the trade of which, under the treaties that have been
made with this country, since the British war, must, in a few
years, be extensive and important, Oregon must, at some fu-
ture day, become a great Commercial as well as Manufacturing
country.


* 40 GENERAL VIEW or ºf C&ON AND CALIYoºnA.
But we do not profess to give a full description of these countries.
There is no one whose knowledge concerning them is not very
limited. After the natives, from whom, of course, little is to be
learned, those who have longest inhabited them, and traveled over
them most, the traders, are nearly all illiterate; and the few who
were somewhat competent to investigate and judge, have had their
minds wholly engrossed with other matters. A few years is insuſ.
ficient to acquire a particular knowledge of such extensive territo-
ries. It yet remains for others to explore, discover, and make
known, many of the hidden resources and subjects of interest,
with which those remote, new, and peculiar regions, most proba.
bly abound.

A R P J N } . . .
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
INSTRUCTIONS TO EMIGRAN TS-SUPPLIES AND EQUIPMENT-
MANNER OF TRAVELING, &c.—BILL OF THE ROUTE:
The distance ſroºm the Western Settlements of the United States to
the Settlements in Oregon of California, is variously estimated from
twenty-two to twenty-five hundred miles; and the kind of country
through which emigrants have to pass, will be seen from the foregoing
description; it will also be perceived, that there is but a small portion of
this country in which they can supply themselves with provisions.
Nothing can be obtained at the trading establishments, except at an enor-
mous price; and the Buffalo are not to be depended on. Under these
circumstances, it is of the first importance, that emigrants furnish them.
selves amply with provisions, before they leave the United States. It
requires about five months to make the journey, under ordinary circum-
stances; but difficulties and detentions may, in some instances, increase
the time to six months; it will therefore be the safest, and most pru-
dent, for emigrants to lay in provisions for six months. In respect to the
quantity, every one should make a calculation, and judge, partially at
least, for himself. In making such a calculation, it is important to take
into consideration, the fact, that the appetite is almost universally in-
creased by traveling. It is peculiarly so on the way across the Rocky
Mountains. The rough manner of living, which it is necessary for the
traveler to adopt, together with the purity of the atmosphere, the con-
stant and wholesome exercise, and the various scenes and incidents dai-
ly presented, which tend to divert the mind, all have a great tendency
to promote uncommon good health, and consequently, uncommon good
appetites. For this reason, it will be found easy to dispense with most
of the mere luxuries common to civilized life. With but few exceptions
it is only those things which are the most substantial and nutritious that

142 Appen Dix.
should be taken; such as flour, middlings of bacon, because they are free
from bones, rice, sugar, coffee, salt, pepper, &c. The quantity of flour
for each individual, should not be less than two hundred pounds, unless
the company be entirely made up of pack-men, who intend to make the
journey in as short a time as practicable. Where a company carries
their provisions, packed on mules, they can generally make the trip about
a month sooner, than those who go with wagons can, and therefore the
quantity of provisions should be proportionately reduced; one hundred
and fifty pounds of flour will be an abundant supply for a packman.
Other articles of provision should be taken in the same proportion with
the flour, excepting meat, which should be something less. The quanti-
ty of meat should be such, that it could be made to last conveniently, five
months. There is scarcely ever a year, in which emigrants will not be
able to kill some game between the point where they first come to the
Platte River and the summit of the Rocky Mountains, and by taking suffi.
cient meat with them from the States to do, by stinting themselves a little,
they may expect to obtain enough from the Buffalo to complete an abun-
dant supply, but beyond this they should not trust to the fortune of the
hunter.
From the moment in which emigrants leave the Western settlements,
they should be exceedingly careful of every morsel that may be used
with propriety for the support of life. Persons who have been always
accustomed to the overflowing abundance of food so bountifully bestow-
ed by Providence upon our country, are very apt to be a little careless in
this particular. They are almost sure to acquire habits of wastefuless,
which, though they be of little consequence in a land of plenty, iſ they
be not laid aside on the prairie, may cause the traveler to look back
repentingly, upon the numerous littles which have been daily thrown
away, and which, had they been saved, would have prevented the want
consequent upon such neglect. Atoms make Mountains; and a little
daily waste, in the course of five or six months, will amount to some-
thing very considerable in the eyes of a hungry man, when he is sur-
rounded by a desert country where no food can be obtained.
It will be necessary, of course, for families to have wagons, and little
companies of three or four young men, will generally find it more com:
fortable and convenient to travel in that manner. Every thing can be
carried with far more ease and less exposure, than on the backs of mules;
neither are the things carried so liable to accident. After the provis-
ions, the means of conveyance, wagons, teams, &c., are of the next im-
portance. Wagons should be selected with the greatest care; those
should be taken which are made out of the best material, well put to:
gether, and properly proportioned. The irons on the wheels should be
as tight as possible, without breaking or straining the wood; and the
whole wagon should only be heavy enough to bare the required load. It
is necessary to have the tires light on the wheels, on account of the hot

AAPENDIX. 143
dust and sand through which they have to go, and which is very liable to
loosen them from the wood.
It will also be well for those who wish to be provided against every
circumstance that is liable to come in the way, to construct the beds of
their wagons in such a manner that they can be corked and converted into
boats. It matters not about the shape; and as they will be used every day
as wagon beds, and perhaps never as boats, they had better retain the
shape of the former. The covering of the wagon should be of strong
and very close material, or painted so as to render it impervious to the
heavy rains, which are likely to be encountered on the waters of the
Kanzas, and on the Platte.
The kind of teams taken upon this road, is also a matter to which the
emigrant should pay very great attention. In an outfit, it is one of the
things second in importance: after the provisions, probably the first: for
iſ a team fails, it will be very difficult to replace it. The emigrant is
entirely dependant on his team; because if it be not sound, healthy and
strong, it will not be able to keep pace with those that are, and he will.
in consequence, be forced to some disadvantageous extremity, to avoid
falling behind. It will be wise to provide against such accidental cir-
cumstances, by taking along extra animals.
Taking every thing into consideration, oxen are preſerable to any other
animals, for teams. It is true they cannot endure the heat, the want of
sufficient food, and other hardships incident to the journey, quite so well
as mules; neither can they travel with the same speed: but with mode-
rate traveling, and propper care, they will make the trip, and may be kept
in good traveling condition. They are the kind of teams generally used,
and are not likely to be stolen by the Indians; and, in addition, they are
more serviceable to a farmer improving in a new country, and, in
Oregon, they are more valuable, in proportion to the cost in the States,
than either mules or horses. All animals that are expected to do service
on the road, should be of mature age. A mule should not be less than
five years old, and a horse not less than seven. Oxen should also be rath-
er light, and not very large; because this kind are ſound to travel better than
others that are different. If horses are taken with the expectation of
having them to do constant service, the Indian horses had better be ob-
tained, if possible; for there are but very few horses that have been raised
in the United States, that will not fail to reach the settlements in Oregon
or California, if constant service is required of them.
The greatest attention should be paid to all animals that are taken on
this journey: they should never be made to perform any work that is not
absolutely necessary, and they should always have water and grass when
they require it, if it can possibly be obtained. It will be well to stop
once in every few weeks, where a good pasture is found, in order to rest
the teams. Neither wagons nor teams should be overloaded, for it is bad
for either to fail, on the prairie. And there is another thing in connec-

| 44 * Prix C.I.
tion with this that ought to be avoided. Many persons preparing to emi-
grate, who have been unable to sell their little property, have crowded all
sorts of trumpery into their wagons, to be hauled to Oregon. This is
generally thrown away when it has been hauled six or seven hundred
miles, and after it has broken down either the wagon of the team. Per-
sons should remember, that the distance ſtoº: their starting point to that of
their destination, is from twenty-five hundred to three thousand miles;
which is rather a long land carriage, especially where the articles taken
are of little value. Almost every article which is indispensable to per-
sons wishing to engage in any ordinary occupation, may be had in Ore.
gon, at a very reasonable rate; and in California, for far less than what
it will be worth to haul it three thousand miles, across the Rocky Moun-
tains.
Every family should be provided with a commodious tent, made of
some kind of strong, close, cotton cloth. It will be found to add much
to the comfort of traveling, both as a protection against the sun and rain,
A tent also affords a convenient sleeping place, and one in which fami.
lies may enjoy the privilege of being somewhat to themselves.
Cooking utensils should be such as are in character with a camp; light,
simple, and not liable to be broken.
Emigrants should be provided with a good supply of strong and dura-
ble clothing; enough to last seven or eight months, or until they can ar-
five at their destination, and have convenient time to procure others.
But this is sufficient; more is worse than superfluous, especially for those
who intend going to Oregon. In Oregon, articles of clothing may be
obtained at about as reasonable rates as they generally are in new coun-
tries, and very much cheaper than they can be carried in wagons, over
land, from the United States. It will be proper to take a few articles
suitable for Indian trade; such as colored shirts and blankets, butcher-
knives, awls, tobacco, heads, vermillion, &c.; for the Indians often have
things, which the emigrant would be glad to obtain. A very small sup-
ply of such things will, however, he sufficient.
If a number of persons would join, or if a single individual wished to
be ſurnished with goods, tools, implements of husbandry, or any thing
else, in Oregon, to a considerable amount, they might be had there more
certainly, and for a much less price, by purchasing them, or having them
purchased, in some of the Eastern Cities, and having them shipped around
the Horn.
Every male person who is of sufficient age to bear arms, should be pro-
vided with a gun, and a good supply of ammunition. The kind of guns
which are preferable for such a trip, are large and strong rifles: their
balls should not be less than one fiftieth of a pound, and they would be
better if they were larger. The stock, which is very liable to be broken,
should be made uncommonly strong at the brich, and all parts of the
piece which are liable to wear or break, should be effectually tried before
A PPENDIX. 3.45
leaving the settlements. This is also a matter which should not be dis-
regarded. It is necessary to be properly armed, to insure safety; those
who are not, have no business in an Indian country. Five pounds of
powder will be an abundant supply for those who intend to hunt a great
deal; for those who do not intend to hunt much, half that quantity will
probably be sufficient. The amount of lead, it will be remembered, should
be ſour times that of the power. Emigrants generally supply themselves
over-abundantly with these articles.
It will be impossible for great numbers to travel together in the same
company. It is necessary that the companies should be as small as will
be consistant with their safety, in order that they may not be so much de-
layed in traveling, and that the animals of the several companies may be
supplied with grass. It will not be difficult for any one to imagine how
delays will occur, where a great number of wagons are traveling togeth-
er. And grass is found in many places, in quantities sufficient for small
companies, but not for large ones.
One hundred men well armed, may travel in safety, by conducting
themselves properly, through the most dangerous part of the country,
that is, the country laying between Big Blue River, one of the main
branches of the Kanzas River, and Green River, of the Gulf of Califor-
nia, which is to be crossed, a few day's travel beyond the summit of the
Rocky Mountains. From Green River to the settlements in Oregon, fifty
men will make a company sufficiently strong, to avoid or repel all danger.
The character of the Indians will be learned from our preceding re-
marks. The manner in which they are treated, will, of course, make a
great difference in their disposition towards those who chance to meet
with them. They should never be trusted, nor should they, if it can be
avoided, be allowed to have the advantage in any particular. And while
everything that would be calculated to give them offence, should be care-
fully avoided by those who wish to go in peace, they should at the same
time, be constantly held at a distance. The emigrant should refrain from
all familiarity himself, and discourage it in them. In trading with them
he should make use of few words; never attempt to deceive, and be
prºmpt to the letter, in fulfilling every promise. Few presents should be
given them, and those few should appear to be given, rather as an ex-
pression of friendship, than to concilitate their favor. Under all circum-
stances, the least expression of fear should be sternly avoided. From
the late difficulties with the Shoshonee Diggers, and with the Walawalas
—to which we have referred—these tribes will not likely be well dispo-
sed towards emigrants, Previously, those who have gone into Oregon,
have become, after traveling thus far, impatient and careless, have sepa-
rated into very small companies, and poorly armed, have hastened on, re-
garding nothing but the termination of the journey. What these havo
been compelled to submit to and endure, should be a warning to others.
Companies passing through these tribes should consist of not less than
thirty, well armed men.
The time of leaving the United States, will vary with the season.
Companies should start as soon as the grass will admit, which will vary
from the latter part of April, through the month of May. The road is so
well marked that there will be no difficulty in finding it, and a pilot
would only be useful, to direct the manner of traveling, &c., and to point
out the best places for encampment. For the benefit of those who wish
to emigrate to Oregon, we subjoin a bill of the route.
























19

146 APPENDIX.
- -
BILL OF THE ROUTE.
MILEs.
S
s
From INDEPENDENCE to
Crossing of the Kanzas, 90
Muddy Creek, - 17
Honey Creek, - 20
A small creek - 9
Another, - - 3.
Another, - - 4.
Canon-Ball Creek, - 2
A branch, - - | 1
Another, - - 5
Another, - - 3.
Vermillion, - - 2
A small creek, - 12
Another, - - 5
Big Blue, - - 3
Battle Creek, - | 1
A small creek, - 9
Another, - - 15
Another, - - 8
Another, - - 14
Another, - - 10
Another, - - 7.
Little Blue, - - º
This is the general estimate of the distance,
to the point where emigrants usually cross this
river. At the season in which companies for
Oregon or California generally leave the States,
there is, in this distance, every where, an abun-
dance of wood, water, and grass. The Kanzas
River is generally fall in the Spring, but emi-
grants will probably hereafter be accommoda-
ted, by a Frenchman who resides at the cros-
sing place, with a ferry-boat. Owing to the
time required in crossing, and the consequent
accumulation of great numbers of animals, the
grass in this vicinity, will likely become, in a
few days, insufficient.
From the crossing, the road leaves the river
gradually to the left. Here there is an abun-
dance of wood and grass. The creek is small
but deep, and the crossing has formerly been
difficult.
In the intermediate distance, the road, which
still continues to leave the Kanzas River more
and more to the left, crosses, every few miles,
small creeks upon which there are good camps.
At Honey Creek, there is the greatest abun-
dance of wood and grass.
107
127
136 Upon this, there is much grass—some wood.
13, do do
143 do
do
145. Upon Cannon-Ball Creek, there is an abun-
dance of grass and wood.
156 But little wood–grass abundant.
161 do do
164 do do
166. This is a large creek, and near it there is
wood and grass in she greatest abundance.
178 Grass and wood are abundant.
183 0. do
186 This is a river of considerable size, and at
in season of the year it is frequently high
and difficult to cross; but its bottom lands are
covered with timber, which serves to make
rafts, or canoes, and in the vicinity there is a
great deal of grass. -
1971. At Battle Creek, the grass is abundant, and
the quantity of wood is sufficient for camps.
206 Grass abundant. Wood.
221 do do
º do do
243 do do
253 do do
260 ºlo do
265. The small streams intermediate between
Battle Creek and the Little Blue River, in the

APPENDIX. 147
MILEs.
To the point where the
road leaves Little
Blue, - - 5 ||
The Great Platte, - 25, 341
Autumn, frequently cease to flow; but in the
Spring they generally afford a sufficient quan-
tity of water, wood, and grass, for camps.
Where the trail follows Little Blue River,
there is found, all along, an abundance of wood
and grass. Thus far the road passes through
a country, much the largest portion of which
is fertile; affording every where, grass suffi-
cient to supply the animals of the largest Emi-
gration; neither—as will be seen by the forego-
ing notes—will water or wood be wanting.
Thus far, there will be no difficulty on account
of the uneveness of the surface of the coun-
try, but the rains which are here frequent, du-
ring that portion of the year in which emigrants
will be passing through it, will generally occa-
sion delay; will sometimes render the streams
impassable for several days, and where large
companies are traveling together, or several
smaller ones near each other, the road, in such
instances, will of course, become muddy.
Water is not found in this distance, and the
trail, after leaving Little Blue, bears very much
to the North until it strikes the Platte—some-
times called the Nebraska.
"The Forks, - - 99 440. From the point where the road strikes the riv-
Crossing of South Fork, 7 || 511
er to the union of the North and South branches,
there is, in most places a sufficiency of grass on
the bottom land, through which the trail pas-
ses, seldom leaving the stream more than
two or three miles. Wood is seldom found
here, though in its absence, a substitute can be
obtained which the emigrant will soon become
acquainted with. There is wood on some of
the islands in the river. At the Forks there is
a very large timbered island, and a few trees
along on the main shore.
The trail, in this distance, follows near the
South bank of the South Fork. On this branch
there is not so much grass as there is on the
main river, but what there is, is rich, and ani-
mals need not suffer. Very little wood. The
manner of crossing, in case the stream is high,
has been described.
To the North Fork, 15, 526. From the South Fork, the trail bears again
very much to the North and crosses the high
dividing land between the two branches, and
descends into Ash Hollow, on the opposite
side. There is no wood in this distance, and
no water, except some standing in pools, which
is very bad. In Ash Hollow there is excellent
wood, grass, and water. The mouth of Ash
Hollow is within a few hundred yards of the
North Fork, and the trail, from this point, with
one exception, follows the stream to Fort Lara-
mie. The grass is not so abundant on this, as

143
A rich bottom,
A small creek,
Another, -
A large creek,
The Chimney,
Scott's Bluffs.
Horse creek,
North Fork,
Fort Laramie,
Warm Springs,
A. small creek,
A large creek,
North Fork, .
30
10
20
20
12
595
627
642
662
673
681
701
706
AppEnnix.
on the South Fork, but it will be found suffi.
cient, generally, for the accommodation of con-
panies. A few small cedar trees will be found
on the bluffs, for some miles above the mouth
of Ash Hollow, but with this exception, thore
is no wood to be found, worthy of notice, be-
tween this point and Scott's Bluffs. As the
trail never leaves the river far, water may ho
always had by going off from it a short distance.
This spot will afford grass sufficient for sev-
eral large companies.
The trail leaves the river, a few miles be-
yond the Chimney.
On the East side of Scott's Bluffs, where the
trail passess over them, there is a large spring
of excellent water, an abundance of wood, and
grass enough for two or three large companies.
In the intermediate distance, there is neither
water nor grass. At Horse Creek there is an
abundance of grass and rushes, but scarcely
any wood.
An abundance of grass and wood.
The trail, in this distance, follows the river;
along which the bottoms are wooded; affording
always plenty of fuel, and generally ample
pasturage. At Fort Laramie, the trail crosses
Laramie Fork, a small river which is sometimes
too deep to ford; but if it should be, means can
probably be obtained at the Fort to ferry it.
There is generally but little grass here, and it
|will be prudent for companies to delay no long-
er than necessity absolutely requires. Wood,
in this vicinity, is almost entirely wanting.
Between Fort Larimie and this point, there
is no water, without descending to the North
Fork, which will be very difficult. At the
Warm Springs, there is an abundance of wood,
and there will be no difficulty in using the wa-
ter; but the grass is sufficient only for a few
small companies. They are a few hundred yards
to the right of trail. These Springs are at the
entrance of the Black Hills, and the road be-
yond them, is, in many places, stee and rocky;
but from the last waters of the Kanzas, thus
far, it is certainly an excellent one.
Wood. Grass abundant, on the hills.
In the intermediate distance, there are seve-
ral small streams which are dry in the latter
part of Summer, but in the season in which
emigrants pass, water will be found every few
miles: an abundance of wood, and grass suff-
cient for camps.
On the river at this place, there is plenty of
º, º ºx. tº
The North Fork, -
The crossing, -
Water, -
Salt Sink, -
Willow Springs, .
Large marsh,
Crooked creek, -
Independence Rock,
Grand Pass, -
Miłºs.
wood and grass. Here there are two roads,
one following the river, and the other leaving
it to the right. That will be preferable which
hº been least traveled, on account of grass.
This is by the road which leaves the river.
Through the Black Hills, there are, in the
Spring season, numerous small streams which
afford water, a great deal of wood, and grass
sufficient for several companies. In this dis-
tance, the streams are never more than six
miles apart. -
30 791. From the point where the two roads again
unite, the trail follows the North Fork to the
crossing, never leaving it far. In the bottoms
of the stream, there is grass sufficient for
camps, and an inexhaustable quantity of wood.
The River here, at this season, can generally
be ſorded. If it be high, recourse must be had
to rafting, unless emigrants are otherwise pro-
vided. Timber is not wanting.
Immediately after crossing tho Platte, the
trail leaves the river entirely, and bears to the
right, over a high and uneven country, which
affords very little of either wood, water, or
grass; and until it reaches Sweet Water, a
small river tributary to the North Fork, the
most of the water is impregnated with some
kind of salts, which render it worse than dis-
agreeable. At this place, there is a spring, and
a channel, in which the water sometimes flows.
Water salt. Grass scarce. No wood.
10, 817. Here, immediately on the trail, the water is
salt, and thero is scarcely any grass; but green
spots may be seen to the right among the hills,
where there is excellent grass, and springs of
good water. They are five or six hundred
yards from the road. Great caution must be
observed, to keep out of the sinks, which are
numerous, dangerous, and deceptive. No
wood.
Excellent water, some willow brush, and
good grass, for a few companies.
2 826 Water and grass for a few companies. No
wood. A small branch flows from this marsh,
along which there is some grass. The trail
follows it a few miles.
11. 837. But little grass, and no wood.
8 845. This is on the bank of Sweet Water, along
which there is good grass, but not much wood.
97 942. This is to some large and oxcellent springs,
a few miles beyond the head of Sweet Water,
and near the summit of the Pass through the
Rocky Mountains, (South Pass.) From the In-
dependence Rock, the trail follows Sweet Wa.
º never leaving it far, to its source. In most
places, the bottoms along the stream are cow-
55, 761
()
16 807
92
4.



Water, - -
Little Sandy, -
Big Sandy, - -
Big Sandy, - -
tº reon River, -
Green River, -
Ham's Fork, -
Black's Fork, -
A trading house, -
Bear River, -
Soda Springs, -
Fort Hall, -
American Falls, -
Raft creek, -
Big Spring, -
Snake River,
Goos Creek,
A PPENDIX.
Mimºs.
s
S -
-
ared with an abundance of excellent grass.
There is very little wood. At the springs in
the Pass, grass is abundant, but wood is entire-
ly wanting.
10 952 Water salt. Little grass. No wood.
9 961. A creek—very good grass, and some wood–
trail crosses the stream, and follows down six
miles.
12 97.3 - Grass, and some wood–trail crosses trai,
follows the course of the stream, but leaves it
some distance to the left.
18, 991. The samo stream. Grass and wood.
tº 997. A large stream which is often too deep
to ford, but there is plenty of timber on
its banks, out of which to construct rafts, if it
should be necessary. Grass is abundant. Af.
ter crossing the river, the trail follows it down
- 12 miles.
12 1009 Wood plenty. Grass scarce.
18 1027. Trail crosses, Good grass. Wood plenty.
1028
28 006 Establishment of Bridgers and Vasques, sit-
|uated on Black's Fork. In the intermediate
distance, the trail follows the stream, along
which there are good places for encampments.
Near the Trading House, both grass and wood
are very abundant.
701136. From the trading post, the trail follows a
- branch of Black's Fork to its source, passes
over a short dividing ridge, to the head of a
small branch, which it follows down to Rear
river. Grass and wood are scarce.
80.1206. These springs are on Bear river. In the in-
termediate distance, the trail runs down the
valley of the stream, which is mostly covered
with excellent grass. Wood is scarce. At the
Soda Springs, wood and grass are abundant.
75,1281. The wagon way is very circuitous, but it
crosses many creeks and branches, on all of
which is an abundance of grass, and on some
of thom wood. Fort Hall is situated on the
bank of Snake river, and in its vicinity, the
valley is covered with grass, and the banks of
the little streams with treas.
18 1299. In this distance there are many good places
for encampments.
23||1322. In this distance there are places suitable for
camps, every 4 or 5 miles. Where the trail cros-
ses Raft creek, there is good grass, and plenty
of willow brush.
16|1338. This is a large marsh, affording very good
grass. On the neighboring hills there are ce-
dar trees.
101348
41352. A great abundance of excellent grass, and
- of willow wood.

APPENDIX. 1.51
Snake River,
Dry Fork,
Cut Rock Creek.
Cut Rock Creek,
Cut Rock Creek,
Snake River,
Snako River,
Salmon creek,
Salmon Falls,
Crossing,
Boise River,
Fort Boise,
Malheur River,
Sulphur Spring,
A small branch,
Snake River,
Brule River,
-
7|1382
121394
101.404
121416
15 || 431
8 1439
5 1444
5 1449
27, 1476
80, 1556
50 1606
121618
1116.2%
5 1634
5 1639
3 1642
40 1682
Branch of the Brule,
Fallen Pine,
Powder River
Grand Round,
Grand Round River,
A small creok,
Utilla River,
24.1706
101716
5 1731
161747
18 1765
17 1782
In this distance the road runs near the river.
The water is generally accessible, and in the
narrow bottoms there is much good grass.
Good grass for a few companies, and willow
brush.
A large scope of fine grass, and plenty of
willow wood.
Here the trail crosses the stream, whore there
is wood and grass sufficient for several large
companies. in the last distance, it runs down
on the east side of the creek.
Here the trail leaves the creek, -some grass
and wood.
Impossible to get near it with wagons.
In the intermediate distance it is inaccessi-
ble.
Good encampment—wood and grass.
Neither wood nor grass.
Here the trail crosses Snake river, which, if
it should happen not to below, will be very diſ-
icult to pass. There is not a stick of wood
iny where near-good grass In the last
ſistance, there is grass, but no water, without
going to the river, which is three or four
miles from the trail.
In this distance the country is rough, and
there is a scarcity of water and grass. Fine
camps on the Boise.
in the intermediate distance, the trail follows
down the Boise river, along which grass and
wood are found, in inexhaustible abundance.
Near the fort, grass is scarce. Here the trail
recrossos Snake river.
Good grass, and a little willow brush.
Some grass, but no wood.
Some grass, and a little willow brush.
0. do do.
Good grass and some wood.
In this distance the road which is perhaps the
worst on the whole route, follows up the Brule
and its branches. There is good grass all along
in the narrow bottoms, and there is an abun-
dance of wood.
Water, grass, and some willow brush.
Excellent grass in the greatest abundance,—
willow brush.
The Round is covered with superior grass,
the streams are fringed with balm and willow
trees, and the mountains around are clothed
with pines. From this point the trail ascends
the main range of the Blue Mountains.
Good grass, and forests of pine.
But little grass, forests of pine.
This is a small river at the western base of
the Blue Mountains. The bottoms and hills
Mouth of Utilla, -
Columbia, -
A creek, - -
Columbia, - -
John Day's River,
De Chutes Rivor,
A small creek, -
Wascopin Mission,
Cascade Falls, -
Vancouvor, -
40 2020.
APPEN 1) ... -
- -
Miles.
tº
ºr
are covered with a most superior kind of grass.
and the banks of the stream, where the trail
crosses it, are fringed with various kinds of
trees. Here there are two roads, one going by
the way of Dr. Whitman's and Fort Walawala,
and the other following down the Utilla. The
latter is considered to be much the nearest and
bost.
In this distance tho trail follows the narrow
valley of the river which affords generally an
abundance of excellant grass. In some places
wood is scarce.—Trail leaves it a few miles
from the mouth.
Not much grass, and no wood.
1818 Good grass, and some wood. At several
places in the last distance, the trail comes near
the Columbia.
121890. Some grass, but no wood.
20, 1910 in this distance the trail runs near the Co-
lumbia. At John Days liver there is good grass
and a little wood.
14, 1924. Some grass—no wood. Along the Columbia.
wood may frequently be purchased from the
Indians.
10, 1934 Good grass, and plenty of brush.
5, 1939. The Mission is situated near the Columbia,
and in its vicinity, there is an abundance of
grass and wood. It is situated at the eastern
base of the Cascade Mountains, and here the
wagon road terminates. Animals may be driv-
en over the mountains, but wagons and their
contents must be taken down the Columbia in
801842
1435ſ
22
boats.
50.1989. This is the distance by water. The rivers
smooth and the navigation uninterrupted. At
the Falls it is necessary to make a portage of
three miles—portage on the North side-Tide
water.
River smooth unless agitated by wind.
Mouth of Willammotte, 6 º
842; 19
Astoria, -
Mouth of Columbia,
12. 21.31
Nortº. Most of the above distances, are according to the daily descisione of our company, returning frºm Crº-
gen. We believe the proportion to be good, but the sum is tºo small.







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C. -
1946 * / º
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º - º, - - *** -
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-
-
-
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-
-
-
-
-
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