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T IHESE Sketches and Reminiscences, etc., of this ancient City of the Straits, have been compiled, believing that there are few persons who do not like to read of old times, particularly of such as relate to the home of their adoption, and to compare the statistics of the past with the present. Of the past we can know much, and can only wonder what the developments of the future will be-what the next half century will do for our city. We who have witnessed the marvelous changes within the last half century or more, may not be. more astonished than:he who fifty years hence chronicles the growth of the city since 1883. While much (covering a period of more than half a century past) is from personal observation and recollection, the selections were published, from time to time, in the newspapers of the day, and preserved by the compiler, and were all written in Detroit, and to quote the saying of another, " They were all new when written." The early historical events are largely drawn from the writings of others, and the records of the Governor and Judges of the Territory of Michigan, of which the compiler was the official custodian.for many years. ILLUSTRATIONS. I. The Strait (Map). II. Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac. III. Unveiling the Conspiracy. IV. Pontiac Memorial Tree. V. The Old Town of Detroit (Map). VI. The Moran House. VII. Residence of John Francis Hamtramck. VIII. Detroit in 1811. IX. New City Hall. X. Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument. XI. Fountain West Grand Circus Park. XII. Schwarz' Mill, Springwells. XIII. Old Pear Trees. XIV. The Great Lakes (Map). XV. Detroit River in 1838. XVI. The Griffin. XVII. Coat of Arms of Michigan. CONTENTS. Detroit, its locality.............................-.............. 7 Leading Historical events.....................................8 Population-Census from 1810 to 1880........................... 9 Early History-Indians and Indian villages........................10 Changes of government....................................... 13 Nationality of inhabitants.................................. 14 Old Detroit from 1701 to 1805................................... 14 Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac............................... 14 Fort Pontchartrain.................................. 17 The first act of baptism..................................... 18 Robert Navarre, notary royal.................................. 18 The first physicians......................................... 18 Siege of Detroit-Battle of Windmill Point..................... 19 First water mills......................................... 19 French Commandants at Detroit........................... 20 First Farm Settlers...................................... 20 The Old Pear Trees.......................................20 The Red Cross supplants the Lily.......................... 21 Conspiracy of Pontiaec............................... 22 Major Gladwyn and the Squaw Catherine.................... 23 The Council............................................ 24 Siege of Detroit........................................... 27 News of Peace between France and England................ 29 Battle of Bloody Run...................................... 30 The Pontiac Tree......................................... 32 Governor Hamilton and De Jean............................. 35 Fort Lernoult-Fort Shelby............................... 36 Peace between Great Britain and United States............... 36 Northwest Territory..................................... 36 Baron Steuben refused a passport.......................... 36 Jay's Treaty, 1794...................................... 37 Treaty of Greenville, 1795.................................37 First flag of United States in Detroit...................... 37 Slavery in Detroit............................................. 37 First Lodge of Free Masons................................ 37 County of Wayne set off.................................... 37 Solomon Sibley-Lewis Cass.............................. 38 Stephen Mack-first merchant.............................. 38 John Francis Hamtramck................................. 38 Town of Detroit incorporated............................. 39 School Lands............................................ 39 CONTENTS. 5 Territory of Michigan created................................. 39 Governor and Judges appointed............................... 39 Detroit Burned............................................. 39 Description of Town, with Map................................. 43 Flag-staff of Fort Lernoult..............................46 Grants by Governor and Judges of Lots........................... 46 Peter Berthelet, L. E. Dolson, Peter J. Desnoyers...................... 46 Social Life in the Early Days............................... 47 The Little Church by the River.............................. 49 The, Moran House...................... 53 The.M oran House............................................... 53 Residence of Colonel Hamtramck.............................. 53 The last relic of "La Fort.".................................. 54 The only relic of Fort Lerneault.............................. 54 Rev. Gabriel Richard....................................... 54 Judge James Witherell....................................... 57 An Earthquake............................................. 58 A disturbance in the waters of Orchard Lake.................... 59 Detroit in 1811.............................................. 59 War of 1812........................................... 6 General Hull ordered to take Malden........................ 63 The Army at Sandwich................................ 63 Colonel Cass in possession of Canard Bridge................. 64 Army recrossed to Detroit.................................... 64 Surrender of Detroit......................................64 Judge B. F. H. Witherell on the Surrender................. 64 Battle of W yandotte..................................... 65 Judge Woodward-Surrender of Detroit, and Massacre at Chicago.......................................... 65 Battle of Lake Erie................................... 67 Harrison's Army cross to Canada............................ 68 Retake Detroit......................................... 68 Perry's Fleet Arrive................................. 68 Perry and Cass Aids to Gen. Harrison........................ 68 Battle of River Thames................... 69 Colonel Johnson kills Tecumseh........................... 69 Governor Shelby in Command............................ 69 General Harrison came to Detroit......................... 69 Colonel Cass appointed Governor......................... 69 Inland Navigation from the Lakes to the Sea...................... 70 Erie Canal................................................ 71 Pe-to-big killed Mr. Racine.................................... 71 The First Public Market...................................... 72 How Mails were received here............................... 72 No place of public worship.................................... 73 City Council rooms........................................ 73 President Monroe at Detroit................................... 73 Symmes' Hole............................................... 74 6 CONTENTS. First Steamboat on the Lakes.................................. 74 The Scinapa Exploring Company............................. 74 Early Protestant Preachers and Churches......................... 75 First Banks............................................. 78 An Exploring Expedition, 1820................................ 79 New City Charter-corporate seal................................ 81 Jefferson Avenue, extended-Turnpikes....................... 81 First Settlements........................................... 84 A Fourth of July episode................................... - 86 A Story of a Donkey...................................... 86 Recollections of the Massacre at Raisin......................... 86 Territorial Politics........................................ 88 Detroit &-St. Joeph R. R.................................... 89 The Black Hawk War...................................... 89 Asiatic Cholera............................................ 90 A Half Century Past-1833.........................-..... 94 Epitaph on "Field Marshal Day"................................ 96 Oliver Newberry-" Admiral of the Lakes "....................... 98 Captain Chelsey Blake-" Commodore of the Lakes.............. 98 The Dearborn Arsenal....................................... 99 The First City Hall........................................ 101 A Serious Riot-Brady Guards................................ 101 Fires-Fire Department..................................... 101 The Boy Governor of Michigan................................ 106 The Presidential Campaign of '40.............................. 108 The Second Slave Riot.................................. 110 Telegraphy.............................................. 111 A Riot.................................................. 113 New City Hall................................................ 115 A Bird's Eye View from City Hall Tower........................ 116 Business Centres........................................... 124 The City Plat-Old and New.............. I.................... 124 Public Grounds...........................................125 By-Gones-Old Land Marks................................... 129 Nomenclature of some of the Streets.......................... 139 Theatricals............................................. 142 Time's Changes.......................................... 148 Sale of Public Lands...................................... 149 Manufactures, etc........................................... 149 The Old Pear Trees-Poetry................................. 155 The Great Lakes........................................... 156 High and Low Water................................. 159 The Rain Fall............................................. 160 The Detroit River........................................... 160 Lake Fishes........................................... 171 The White Fish-Poem..................... I................. 172 The State of Michigan-why it is great.......................... 175 Michigan, My Michigan-Song........................... 177 DETROIT. T HE City of Detroit-the Commercial Metropolis of the State of Michigan, U. S. A.-is situated on the north shore of the Detroit River or Strait (D'Etroit), connecting Lakes Erie and St. Clair, the boundary line between Michigan and the British Province of Ontario, 18 miles east of Lake Erie, and 7 miles west of Lake St. Clair, 300 miles west of Buffalo and Falls of Niagara, and 545 miles from Washington, D. C., in latitude 42 degrees 19 minutes 53 seconds north, and longitude west 82 degrees 58 seconds, or from Washington west, 5 degrees 56 minutes, 12 seconds. Difference in time from Washington, 33 minutes 44 seconds, and from New York City, 34 minutes 48 seconds. Detroit is the most ancient city of the great American lakes. Its history is most intimately connected with the history of the whole Northwest, as its settlement dates among the first on the American continent. It was at an early day, a point of central influence, importance and action. No place in the United States, it has been observed, presents such a series of events, interesting in themselves, and permanently affecting, as they occurred, its progress and prosperity. S SKETCHES OF DETROIT. THE FOLLOWING ARE THE LEADING POLITICAL AND HISTORICAL EVENTS. IT WAS FIlST VISITED BY THE FRENCH IN 1610. FOUNDED BY M. DE LA MOTHE CADILLAC, UNDER THE GOVERNMENT OF FRANCE, IN 1701. TRANSFERRED TO ENGLAND IN 1760. OCCUPIED BY BRITISH TROOPS DURING THE REVOLUTIONARY WAR OF 1776. TRANSFERRED TO THE UNITED STATES BY TREATY IN 1783. TAKEN POSSESSION OF BY WAYNE'S ARMY, WHEN THE FIRST FLAG BEARING THE STARS AND STRIPES THAT EVER WAS FLOATED IN MICHIGAN, WAS GIVEN TO THE BREEZE IN 1796. SURRENDERED TO THE BRITISH IN 1812. RETAKEN BY THE UNITED STATES IN 1813. IT WAS FOUNDED IN THE STRIFE FOR SOVEREIGNTY BETWEEN THE ENGLISH AND FRENCH GOVERNMENTS. FIVE TIMES ITS FLAG HAS BEEN CHANGED. FIRST, THE LILY OF FRANCE FLOATED OVER IT; THEN THE RED CROSS OF ENGLAND. NEXT THE 'STARS AND STRIPES OF THE UNITED STATES; THEN AGAIN THE RED CROSS; AND, LASTLY, THE STARS AND STRIPES. THREE DIFFERENT SOVEREIGNS HAVE CLAIMED ITS ALLEGIANCE, AND SINCE IT HAS BEEN HELD BY THE UNITED STATES ITS GOVERNMENT HAS BEEN THRICE TRANSFERRED. TWICE IT HAS BEEN BESIEGED BY THE INDIANS, ONCE CAPTURED IN WAR, AND ONCE BURNED TO THE GROUND. FIRE HAS SCATHED IT. THE TOMAHAWK, SCALPING-KNIFE AND WAR-CLUB HAVE BEEN LET LOOSE UPON IT IN THE HANDS OF AN UNRELENTING, SAVAGE FOE. IT HAS BEEN THE SCENE OF ONE SURRENDER, OF MORE THAN FIFTY PITCHED BATTLES AND TWELVE HORRID MASSACRES. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. THE OFFICIAL CENSUS OF THE CITY FROM 1810 TO 1880, INCLUSIVE. Average YEARS. Population. Increase. annual Increase. 1810............................. 770 1818.......................... 1,110 340 42 1820......................... 1,442 332 166 1828...................... 1,517 75 9 1830.............................. 2,222 705 352 1834.............................. 4,968 2,746 684 1840........................... 9,102 4,134 688 1844.............................. 10,948 1,846 461 1850............................... 21,019 10,071 I 1,678 1854............................ 40,127 19,108 4,777 1860............................ 45,619 5,492 915 1864............................. 53,176 8,551 2,137 1870........................... 79,599 26,429 4,407 1874.............................. 101,255 21,556 5,414 1880.......................... 116,342 15,087 2,514 The large increase at sbme of the periods is due to the extension of the city limits. Including the manufacturing districts of Springwells and Hamtramck, adjoining the city, the massed population in 1880 was 128,742, where now (1883) it is estimated to exceed 150,000, and with the other towns and manufacturing places on the twenty-five miles of this strait between Lakes Erie and St. Clair, there are more than 200,000, all of which is tributary to the business of Detroit. 10 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. EARLY HISTORY. Its annals stretch much farther back, Than gloomy days of Pontiac, Or Cadillac of yore.--Bishop. INDIANS AND INDIAN VILLAGES. The Strait was first visited by civilized man in 1610, two years after the settlement of Quebec, and ten years before the Pilgrims landed on Plymouth Rock. At the time of its discovery, the Strait was in the sole possession of the natives of the forest, who had their villages on both its shores. The explorers under La Salle, in 1679, found along its banks several Indian villages belonging to different tribes; that of the Hurons, called Teuchsagrondie, occupied a portion of the present site of the city of Detroit. The Strait had often been visited by the Jesuit missionaries and the coureurs des bois, but no settlement by Europeans was attempted. In an interview with Count Pontchartrain in 1705, M. Cadillac said there were two thousand souls in the Indian villages in the immediate vicinity of Detroit, and that in three years thirty thousand beaver had been killed. At the time the country was ceded to Great Britain by France in 1760, the Ottawa tribe of Indians had their village on the north shore of the Strait, two miles east of Detroit, just east of Parent Creek (Bloody Run). Here, on an island in the Strait, Pontiac, the great chief of the Ottawas, and great head of the Indian race in the lake region -thle " Satan of this forest paradise"'-had his home and head wigwam, where, says Parkman, "'The king and lord of all this country,' as Rogers calls him, lived in no royal state. His cabin was a small, oven-shaped structure of bark and rushes. Here he dwelt with his squaws and children, and here, doubtless, he might often have been seen SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 11 carelessly reclining his naked form on a rush mat or a bear-skin, like an ordinary warrior. Here Pontiac planned the driving every white man over the Alleghanies and destroying all the English posts in the Northwest simultaneously on a fixed day. These consisted of thirteen well-garrisoned forts, stretching from Niagara and Pittsburgh all along the lakes to the Mississippi and on the Wabash rivers. So secret were his plans, and so prompt was he in their execution, that ten of these forts fell in a single day, and their inmates were massacred; but he himself met with a signal defeat at Detroit. In 1765 the English held a council with the Indians at Detroit, at which eighteen Indian tribes were represented. Here Tecumseh, chief of the Shawanoes, or Shawnees, a wise and statesmanlike character, the noblest of his race, " rose, reigned and fell." Tecumseh participated in all the conflicts against the. United States from the defeat of Harmer in 1790 to the battle of the Thames in 1813, where he lost his life, and left no spot or blemish on his honor or humanity. He was shot by Colonel Richard M. Johnson of Kentucky, while wounded and held down by his own horse, which had fallen upon him, and Tecumseh was approaching to kill him. After the close of the war of 1812, the country was generally relieved from the ravages of hostile Indians. Still the Saginaw tribe of Kishkakon was very troublesome at times-committing murders and outrages in the neighborhood of Detroit, which continued until 1826. When Kishkakon and his son Che-minck were lodged in jail for the murder of Wa-was-son, another chief, Kishkakon supposed he was detained for the murdering of white men-he having killed a number-and could not be persuaded to the contrary, though informed of the fact by Col. Beaufait, a favorite interpreter with the natives. His reply to the Colonel was, "No, the hats never forget." Kish 12 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. kakon called himself the "Son of Thunder."- He sent a messenger to Saginaw with instructions to summon his band together and hold a wa-bi-no to importune Thunder (his father) to come and throw down the jail and liberate him on a particular day he named. He waited patiently and sullenly for the day when he was to be liberated. The day came, but Thunder did not, and he committed suicide by taking poison furnished by one of his squaws. Che-minck escaped from the jail and was not retaken. Kishkakon was a savage among savages. Some years before, he had a spite against one of his band, and charged him with a capital offense, and had him placed on trial for his life. Kishkakon presided at the trial. The prisoner sat with a blanket over his head, so that he could not see what was going on, surrounded by the jury. The jury, after hearing the testimony, found the prisoner not guilty. Kishkakon inquired of the jury why they acquitted him. The foreman answered that he had not committed* any offense deserving of death, according to their law. Kishkakon quietly arose, and taking his tomahawk from his belt, drove it through the blanket into the head of the prisoner, saying at the same time, "then the law is altered." Presents and annuities were given the Indians by the British government at Malden, at the mouth of the river, and annually, in the month of June, thousands of Indians from the upper lakes, en route there, stopped at Detroit, and lined the river beach, above the city, with their birchen canoes, and pitched their tents and lighted their campfires beneath the shade of the extensive orchards of pear trees which then lined the shore, on the front of the farms. On their return they again stopped at Detroit, and indulged in a drunken frolic; and, being more numerous than the whites, they were a terror to the inhabitants. They procured the fire-water in exchange for the point SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 13 blankets received as presents, which were of superior quality, and most of the male inhabitants of Detroit wore overcoats made of them. The disbursement of their annuities at Maiden was discontinued about 1830, and since then few Indians have been seen in Detroit at one time, and now they are as great a curiosity here as in any eastern city. CHANGES OF GOVERNMENT. Detroit was first visited by the French in 1610, and for one hundred and fifty years thereafter was under the dominion of France, and the Lily floated over its fortress until 1760, when it was transferred to Great Britain, and the Red Cross of England floated over its fortress for thirty-six years. Although ceded to the United States by treaty in 1783, it did not extend its jurisdiction over it until 1796, when it was taken possession of by a portion of Wayne's army, under Capt Porter, when the first flag bearing the Stars and Stripes that ever floated in Michigan, was given to the breeze from the flag-staff in the fort constructed by the British government during the American Revolution in 1778. On the 15th of August, 1812, Detroit was surrendered, without battle, to the British, and the Red Cross of England again floated over its fortress until September 28th, 1813, when the city and fort were surrendered to Gen. Harrison's army, and the Stars and Stripes again floated in triumph over the fortress, where a year before it had been so shamefully dishonored. 14 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. The first to inhabit Detroit, after the deluge, were the aborigines, next the French, then the Britons, and finally the sons of freemen and lovers of liberty of every clime. To-day the inhabitants are sixty per cent. native Americans, twenty-five per cent. Germanic, and fifteen per cent. Britannic and other nationalities. OLD DETROIT-FROM 1701 TO 1805. The legitimate settlement of Detroit was in 1701. M. Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, a native of France, who had been commandant at Michilimackinac from 1695 to 1699, proceeded in person to Versailles, France, and presented the subject of constructing a 'fort on the strait (d'Etroit) to the consideration of Count Pontchartrain, the colonial minister, to secure the trade with the savages, saying, " It is incontrovertible that all the waters of the great lakes pass through this strait, and this is the only practicable path by which the English can carry on their trade with the savage nations which have correspondence with the French. The English use every possible means to obtain trade, but if that post were fortified in form, the English would entirely abandon the hope of depriving us of its advantages. * * * One cannot deny that our savages have hitherto hunted north of Lake St. Clair, but by this establishment, they would pursue the chase as far as two hundred leagues south of Lake Erie towards the sea, consequently those furs that make the greater part of the trade of the English by their savages, would be conveyed by ours into the French colony, and make a very considerable improvement in its commerce." In answer as to the kind of furs there, he said, " the skins of the stag, deer, elk, roebuck, black bear and buffalo, with wolves, otter, wild cat, beaver and other small furs." The project was submitted to the king, Louis XIV, who approved it, and La Mothe Cadillac was presented with a 'JULIUS MELCHERS, SCULPTOR, DETROIT. ANTOINE DE LA MOTHE CADILLAC, LORD OF THE PLACES OF DOUAGUET AND MONT DESERT. COMUMANDER OF THE KING AT FORT PONTCHARTRAIN. FOUNDER 'OF DETROIT IN I701. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 17 commission as commanandant and a grant of land, fifteen acres square, " wherever on the Detroit the new fort should be established," with instructions to return to Canada and commence at once the establishment of a post on the strait. He arrived here on the 24th of July, 1701, with fifty soldiers and fifty Canadian traders and artizans, and at once proceeded to erect a fort, which he called Fort Pontchartrain. It was only a strong stockade of wooden pickets. The space enclosed was on the bank of the river, south of where now is Jefferson avenue, between Griswold and Shelby streets, with wooden bastions at each angle. Within the inclosure a few log huts were erected, the roofs were thatched with grass. Such was Detroit in 1701. In a report to Count Pontchartrain in 1703, Cadillac says his "design in projecting the establishment of a trading post here in 1701 was to afford protection to commerce, since from this place we can go by canoe to all the nations that are around the lakes; it is the door by which one can go in and out to trade with all our allies." Cadillac was a man of more than ordinary ability. He was educated at a Carmelite Monastery in St. Nicholas-enLay, France, where he was born. He had gained distinction as an officer in the French army before coming to America. His reports to the home government upon the condition and necessities of the colonies in America attest his statesmanship. He was a devoted. Roman Catholic, and strenuously opposed to the Jesuit Missionaries, of whom he often complained to Count Pontchartrain, of their interference with his manner of dealing with the savages. Cadillac remained commandant of Detroit until 1710, when he went to Mount Desert, in the present State of Maine, where he had 100,000 acres of land, a grant from Louis XIV. in 1688. He went from thence to Louisiana, in 1713, and became governor, where he was again conspicuous for his services to France, and was honored by the home government with 18 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. special confidence and consideration in his personal and official relations. He returned to France in 1717, and was appointed Governor of Castle Sarassin, which position he held until the office was abolished by royal decree. He died there and was buried in the church of the Carmelites, October 16th, 1730, and that city has the honor of possessing the remains of the founder of Detroit. Now, 182 years after selecting this beautiful and natural site for a city, and 153 years after his death, Cadillac's name and deeds are to be commemorated by a life-size statue in a niche on the front of the City Hall, placed there through the liberality of Bela Hubbard, Esq., an esteemed and public spirited citizen of the City of the Straits. Cadillac was 41 years of age when he founded Detroit. In a certificate signed by him dated January 16, 1709, filed in St. Ann's Church, he styles himself "Lord of the places of Douaguet and Mount Desert, Commander of the King at Fort Pontchartrain." The first act of baptism here was conferred on Marie Theresa, daughter of Monsieur de La Mothe Cadillac, and of Madame Therese Guoin, the father and mother. Bertrand Arnaulet was godfather and Mlle. Genevieve LeJendre godmother. The ceremony was on the 2d of February, 1704, and celebrated by Brother Constant Dell Halle, priest at Fort Pontchartrain. The first judicial functionary here was Robert Navarre, Notarie Royal, to whose son Robert the Pottawatomie Indians deeded their village on the bank of the river, about two miles below the fort, on what is now known as the Godfrey farm within settled portions of the city. The first physician here was Dr. Henry Bellisle, who came with Cadillac. His successor was Dr. Jean Chapaton, who held the rank of major. He came here in 1715. He was an ancestor of Hon. Alexander Chapaton, and his son, Dr. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 19 E. Cliapaton, who is now a prominent practitioner here. Besides these there are descendants residing here of the pioneers of the first half century after 1701. Of those who were conspicuous, we may mention the Godfreys, Campaus, Chenes, Cicottes, LaFertes, LaFontaines, Guoins, Rivards, Lourangers, DuBois, Riopelles, Morans, Dequindres and Thiboults. De la Foret, who had been La Salle's lieutenant, was appointed Cadillac's successor at Detroit. He being detained by private affairs at Quebec the Sieur Dubiuisson had temporary command until Foret arrived, in 1712. Before his, arrival the southern nations of Indians in great numbers had besieged and made a desperate attempt to destroy the fort. Dubuisson had timely warning, and prepared for the siege. The friendly Indians were garrisoned in the fort,'which was well provisioned with stores. The assailants lost many killed, and after nineteen days withdrew to Windmill Point, eight miles above the fort, nnd there threw up entrenchments. The French and allies pursued them,with two cannon, and, after four days' fighting, the besieged surrendered and all but the women and children were slain. The loss of the French and allies was sixty Indians and seven French killed and wounded. The enemy lost a thousand. De la Foret remained in command till 1717 when he was succeeded by M. Tonty, an able French officer. Charlevoix visited Detroit in 1721, and spoke in high terms of Tonty's administration. Tonty was relieved and command given Boishbert in 1728. Boishbert authorized a water-mill to be built by Charles Campau on what, in later years was known as May's Creek, -which has now disappeared. It stood near the crossing of Fort and Twelfth streets. This was the second watermill built in the country. The first was built by Cadillac on the " Savoyard River," where it crossed the Cass farm. 20 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Windmills built in circular form, with broad sloping stone foundation and upright wooden body, surmounted by a conical roof, which was turned by a long timber sweep, so as to bring the sails into position, were numerous along the shores of the straits. The commanders at Detroit up to the time of its surrender to Great Britain, in 1760, besides those mentioned, were Pajot, Deschaillons de St. Ours (a very distinguished officer), Desnonyelles, Noyan, Sabrevois, Celeron, Longueuil, De Muy and Bellestre. A Mission was established on Bois-blane Island, on the Canada side of the Detroit River., commanding the main channel, in 1742; Father Potier had charge, and the village was very extensive, regularly laid out, and contained a population of several hundreds. In 1747 there was constant trouble with the Indians about Detroit, and Father Potier was obliged to leave Bois-blane and go up to Detroit. The following year, 1748, the Mission was re-established on the south shore of the strait, where now is the village of Sandwich, then called "Point Montreal." Here they built a large wooden church which was the place of worship of the Catholics for more than a century thereafter. In 1749 settlers were sent here from France at the expense of the government, and farms were granted them on both sides of the river, of four arpents (French acres) front on the river, and running back forty arpents. Farming implements, seed, and other advances were made to them by the government. They were under the charge of a Jesuit priest. His account book of supplies furnished them is in possession of the Historical Society of Michigan. This was the commencement of agriculture in the lake region. Among the supplies furnished were young fruit treesapples and pears-brought from that enchanted gairden of Europe, La Belle France. Orchards of these lined both shores of the strait between Lakes Erie and St. Clair. The SKETOHES OF DETROIT. 21 product of fruit was in excesssof the demand for consumption when the writer came here fifty-six years ago, and apples of excellent quality sold at ten cents per bushel, until emigration from the east commenced about 1830. Some of the pear trees still remain, bearing fruit, a single tree producing seventy-five or eighty bushels in a season. They have attained immense growth, resembling forest oaks, their trunks three feet from the ground measuring more than eight feet in circumference. They are the only living thing commemorative of the first cultivation of the soil in this new world" And when those ancient trees are gone, which those old heroes set, The noisy waves shall chant their praise, though men their names forget." Duffield. The old town of Detroit was called by the early French "La Ville d'Etroit,"-the City of the Strait-to distinguish it from other points on the strait. Detroit being the French word for strait, it referred to the entire distance between Lakes Erie and St. Clair. Down to 1725 there was a constant succession of difficulties between the French and the different tribes of Indians, many of which were attributed to the introduction of brandy and after the Indians had become accustomed to its use prohibiting its sale to them. From that time no very serious calamity occurred here while it remained under the dominion of France. The Red qross Supplants the Lily. The French and English struggled long and stubbornly for the control of the Western Continent, but at last the decisive conflict came, when the Canadas were staked and battled for on the plains of Abraham. With the fall of Montcalm the French power was forever broken. On the 18th of September, 1759, Quebec " the rock-built 22 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. citadel of Canada" was captured by the English, and on the 8th of September, 1760, Montreal and its dependencies, including Detroit and the whole northwest was surrendered by France to GREAT BRITAIN, and shortly after a force of British troops, under Major Robert Rogers, took possession of Detroit when the Fleur De Lis, which had waved over its fortress for sixty years was struck, and in its place the Red Cross of St. George was given to the breeze. The French troops were sent to Philadelphia, and the inhabitants taking the oath of allegiance were allowed to remain and retain their houses and farms. Major Rogers left Detroit on the 23d of December for Pittsburgh, leaving Major Campbell in command here. In 1761 the British troops took possession of the posts at Mackinaw, Green Bay and Sault St. Marie, and the whole northwest, which had been for one hundred and fifty years under the Dominion of France, passed from under its control forever. The jealousy of the Indians was greatly excited by this change of rulers, who made an, abortive attempt to destroy the forts along the lakes in 1761. In 1762 many outbreaks occurred, but no decisive blow was struck. Pontiac, chief of the Ottawas, conceived a plot for the extermination of the aggressors, and late in the fall of that year held a council with the chiefs of the western tribes of Indians at the river Ecorse, eight miles below Detroit, at which the Ottawas, Hurons, Pottawatomies, Iroquois, Delawares, Senecas, and all the tribes of the Northwest were represented. After lighting their council-fires and smoking the pipe of peace, Pontiac addressed them in strains of impassioned SKETCHES OF DETROIT. eloquence, and unfolded his plan of crushing the English and regain possession of the hunting grounds of their fathers. The scheme, which was comprehensive in design and minute in detail, would have reflected honor on any civilized mind. The scheme had the approbation of the assembled chiefs, when Pontiac assigned to the representatives of each tribe their part in the great tragedy, and enjoined on them the utmost secrecy; and, after agreeing on the day in the following spring when the destructive blow was to be struck, which was to be simultaneous at all the forts from Niagara and Pittsburgh along the lakes to the Mississippi and Wabash Rivers, other preliminaries were settled, and with a war dance and carousal, the assemblage dispersed. The result was the capture of ten of the thirteen forts, as elsewhere described, Detroit being among the number that escaped destruction. That he failed here was no fault of his. The treacherous chief was himself betrayed by an Ojibway girl who dwelt with the Pottawatomies, and who revealed to Major Gladwyn, the commandant of the fort, the impending danger. The accompanying engraving is from the painting by J. M. Stanley, owned by Hon. Moses W. Field, of Detroit. The scene is laid in the quarters of Major Gladwyn, and the figures are the Major and Catherine, the Ojibway squaw, who is communicating to him in an earnest manner the conspiracy. The interior decorations, though rude, are characteristic. The following extract from Parkman's History will give an idea of the scene represented: " In one of the Indian villages near, lived an Ojibway girl, who, if there be truth in tradition, could boast a larger share of beauty than is common in the wigwam. She had attracted the eye of Gladwyn, and had become much attached to him. On the afternoon of the 6th, Catherine, for so the citizens called her, came to the fort, and repaired to Gladwyn's quarters, bringing with her a pair of elk-skin moccasins, ornamented with porcupine work, which he had requested her to make. There was 24 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. something unusual in her look and manner. Her face was sad and downcast. She said little, and soon left the room; but the sentinel at the door saw her still lingering at the street corner, though the hour for closing the gate had nearly come. At length she attracted the notice of Gladwyn himself, and calling her to him, he pressed her to declare what was weighing on her mind. Still she remained for a long time silent, and it was only after much urgency and many promises not to betray her, that she revealed her momentous secret. "To-morrow," she said, "Pontiac will come to the fort with sixty of his chiefs. Each will be armed with a gun cut short, and hidden under his blanket. Pontiac will demand to hold a council; and after he has delivered his speech he will offer a peace belt of wampum, holding it in a reversed position. This will be the signal of attack. The chiefs will spring up and fire upon the officers, and the Indians in the street will fall upon the garrison. Every Englishman will be killed, but not the scalp of a single Frenchman will be touched." Gladwyn was an officer of signal courage and address, He thanked Catherine, and promised her a rich reward; told her to go back to her village that no suspicion might be kindled against her." On the same day, William Tucker, a soldier in the fort, who had been captured in his boyhood and adopted into the tribe of his captors, received from his Indian sister intimation of the designs of Pontiac, which he communicated to the commandant. So Gladwyn had everything in complete readiness to meet the assault, and when Pontiac, on the 6th of May, 1763, with his sixty chiefs under pretext of holding a friendly council, entered the gates of the fort he became convinced that his plot was discovered by the unwonted array of armed soldiers in the streets and at the gnns on the bastions. After some hesitation, the Indians seated themselves on mats, when Pontiac arose and stretching his majestic form to its full height, and addressing the commandant, said he and his chiefs had come to smoke the pipe of peace and strengthen the cords of friendship; that they had great reverence for the superior knowledge of the English and desired to conciliate their favor. He spoke of the number of his braves and their deeds of valor. In his hand he held the sacred emblem of peace, a belt of wampum with which he was to give the signal of attack, and which the officers watched with the keenest vigilance as z ti z 0 C0 z C) HI 0 Hl (, SKETCHES OF DETROIT. they listened to his hollow words. He once raised the belt as if to give the preconcerted signal, the motion was seen by the quick eye of the commandant who passed his hand across his brow, when a sudden clash of arms was heard without, the drums rolled the charge, and the tramp of soldiers resounded along the street. Major Gladwyn was unmoved, with his eyes fixed on the treacherous chief, who, with looks of astonishment, stammered out more professions of friendship and presented the belt in the usual manner, which Gladwyn received, saying to his savage auditors that they could rely on his friendship and protection as long as they deserved it, but threatened them witl the most fearful vengeance for any act of perfidy or aggression. This closed the council, and the gates which had been closed during the sitting, were opened and the baffled chiefs departed. When beyond the precints of the fort, and joined by their warriors who had assembled on the common near the fort under the pretext of playing a game of ball, the whole band burst forth in terrific yells, and rushed madly around, massacring any English they came across without regard to sex or age. The main body of the Indians, numbering about one thousand warriors, stationed behind the picket fences and houses and barns on the east line of the commons-called the King's Dominion-commenced firing upon the garrison. Pontiac sullenly walked away alone, and embarked in his canoe to the Ottawa village on the south shore, and at once ordered the removal of the camp to the opposite shore; before nightfall it occupied the rise of ground east of Parent Creek. Detroit was now in a state of siege. Day and night the Indians kept up incessant firing on the fort, and a simultaneous attack was hourly expected. After the Indians had attacked the fort and been driven off with considerable loss, Gladwyn sent Messrs. Chapoton and Godfrey to parley with 28 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Pontiac, who completely deceived them into supposing he was disposed to treat. He wanted Major Campbell, Gladwyn's predecessor-who was greatly esteemed by French and Indians-to come to his camp and "settle all difficulties, and smoke the pipe of peace together." Against the advice of of Gladwyn, Major Campbell, anxious to terminate the vexatious warfare even at the hazard of his own life, accompanied by Lient. Geo. McDougall, and a number of the French inhabitants, went to Pontiac's camp. Once in his power, the treacherous chief sent the French back with a message to Gladwyn, that Major Campbell and Lieut. McDougall would be held as hostages for the surrender of the fort. Lieut. McDougall made his escape and returned to the fort. Major Campbell, while taking his accustomed walk-which Pontiac permitted-was murdered by a chief of the Chippawas, whose uncle had been killed by the English. By this act Pontiac's design of compelling the surrender of the fort was frustrated, and the indignant chief in vain made every effort to apprehend the murderer, who fled to Saginaw-as his life would have paid the penalty of his temerity. The death of Major Campbell was a sad blow to the besieged and almost disheartened garrison. The garrison was now short of provisions, and on the 21st of May the schooner Gladwyn was despatched to Niagara for supplies. On the 30th day of May a convoy, consisting of twenty-two batteaux laden with provisions and munitions of war, and manned by a reinforcement of troops, was captured by the Indians, in the river below Sandwich Point, The troops were taken to Ile au Cochens (now the City Belle Isle Park) and put to death with all the horrors of Indian barbarity. About this time Pontiac was reinforced by large bodies of warriors from four neighboring tribes, and felt certain of success. Still the brave band in the little fort held it, and all the buildings outside the ramparts which sheltered the Indians were burned with hot shot from SKETCHES OF DETROIT. the fort, or by sorties made by the garrison. For sixty days and nights, every man was on duty, catching sleep as they could with their clothes on, and guns by their side. On the 3d of June the news of peace between France and England reached Detroit. From being prisoners by capitulation the French inhabitants now had the choice to either continue their neutrality or take part with the contending parties. They chose to remain neutral. The schooner Gladwyn returned from Niagara, after having been twice attacked by Indians, on the 30th of June, bringing a reinforcement of sixty troops, with provisions and ammunition. Pontiac now saw the necessity and made the attempt to destroy the two vessels which lay anchored before the fort, by means of fire-rafts set adrift above them on the river, expecting the current would bring them in contact, and secure their destruction, but they were met by the sailors in small boats, who grappled them and turned them at a safe distance from the vessels. On the 29th of July another fleet of batteaux arrived, with three hundred regular troops, under command of Captain Dalzell, an aid-de-camp of the British Commanderin-chief, Sir Jeffrey Amherst. On the day of his arrival, Capt. Dalzell asked permission to attack Pontiac's camp, and endeavored to convince the more cautious and experienced Gladwyn that the time had come when one decisive blow would terminate this vexatious war. Gladwyn hesitated and pointed out the danger of such an attempt, but finally yielded. By some means Pontiac was apprised of Dalzell's design, and he stationed his warriors in ambush along the route from the fort to his camp on the rise of ground east of Parent Creek, which discharged into the Detroit River about two miles from the fort. The only road to the camp 30 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. was on the river beach, fronting which there were farm houses, not more than four acres apart, the entire distance. At two o'clock in the morning of July 31, 1763, Capt. Dalzell and two hundred and fifty British troops of the 55th and 80th regiments marched out of the fort and up the river road in double file and perfect order, while two large batteaux, full-manned, with a swivel on the bow of each boat, were rowed up the river abreast of the troops. The night was dark, still and sultry. The advance of twentyfive men was led by Lieut. Brown; Capt. Gray commanded the centre, and Capt. Grant's detachment brought up the rear. At the mouth of Parent Creek, since known as Bloody Run, the road crossed a low bridge about thirty feet long. As soon as the troops reached the bridge they were met by a murderous fire from the Indians in front, in ambush on the east bank of the creek, when one half of the advance-guard fell. Captain Dalzell immediately advanced to the front, rallied the troops and rushed rapidly across the bridge. But their foes had fled. In vain they sought them in the gloom. They had crossed the creek on a mill-dam above and joined the main body on the west bank, which lay among the scrub willows lining the banks, from which their guns soon flashed incessantly, and the war cry rang out with undiminished ferocity. Here the troops directed their fire and attempted to dislodge them, when the ravine became a scene of carnage. The troops were unacquainted with the locality, were soon bewildered in the darkness, and they were compelled to retreat. When the men resumed their marching order Captain Grant was in advance and Dalzell in the rear; Captain Gray was killed. About a mile from the fort, on the right as they returned, was a cluster of houses and barns, entrenched with strong picket fences. The river was close on the left and there was no way of escape except along the narrow passage that lay between. To many of the retreating soldiers it was the SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 31 way to death. A large body of Indians lay here in ambuscade. The troops were suffered to advance unmolested till they were directly opposite, when, with terrific yells, the Indians poured volley after volley upon them. The troops broke their ranks, and but for the presence of the brave Dalzell, himself twice wounded, they would have fled and thus secured their complete destruction. Encouraged by the voice of their leader, the soldiers again rallied, and comparative order was restored. A little further on, the brave Dalzell stepped aside from the ranks to aid a wounded soldier, and was shot dead by a ball from the enemy. The Indians still pressed on in hot pursuit, and destruction of the entire force seemed inevitable, when Major Rogers and his rangers from the fort succeeded in gaining possession of the house of M. Campau, which commanded the road, and covered the retreating regular troops. Meantime Captain Grant had moved forward half a mile and was able to maintain his position within _the inclosure of an orchard until the arrival of the remaining troops. All the men he could spare were detached to different points below, and the constant arrival of troops enabled him to reinforce these posts till a line of communication was formed to the fort, effectually securing the retreat. But Major Rogers and his men found themselves besieged in the house of Campan by about two hundred Indians. The two batteaux which had brought the dead and wounded to the fort, now returned and opened a fire from their swivels, which dispersed the savages and covered the retreat of Rogers. At eight o'clock in the morning the survivors entered the fort having lost seventy men killed and forty wounded. Thus terminated the sanguinary battle of Bloody Run, the most terrible conflict on record in the annals of Detroit. It was a remarkable instance of a hand-to-hand fight with Indians for six hours in that short road. 32 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. The scene of this conflict has now entirely changed. The bridge is gone, the margin of the Detroit River where it: crossed the run was further inland than now, and the modern subterranean sewer has done the work for "Bloody Run." Its glory has departed, it is " among the things that were," and no relic is left but a huge white-wood tree riddled with bullets known as The Pontiac Tree, which has not yet been sacrificed to city improvements. It is the only remaining monument commemorative of the sanguinary battle fought by the pioneers of civilization in the western wilds. When the old tree is gone, a more enduring monument should be erected to Capt. Dalzell and his heroic fallen band. When the writer first saw this tree, in 1827, it was then a conspicuously large tree; old residents here called it the Pontiac tree, and claimed it was there at the time of the battle. In 1829 the writer listened to an address written in verse by one who had served an enlistment in the army, descriptive of the siege of Pontiac and battle of Bloody Run, in which Pontiac and his warriors were described stealthily crossing to the west side of the run on a mill-dam just north of the " Pontiac tree," and secreting themselves among the scrub willows that lined its banks, the warriors lying flat on the ground, Pontiac alone standing. On the soldiers nearing the bridge, he firmly and slowly said in a loud and commanding tone: " Warriors, arise, make the attack, It is the voice of Pontiac," when a murderous fire from the Indians in ambush on the east, was poured into the advance troops on the bridge, simultaneously with the attack on the main body by the Indians on the west bank. CORNELIA H. ROBERTS, 1883. PONTIAC MEMORIAL TREE. AT BLOODY RUN, ON GROUNDS OF,MICHIGAN STOVE WORKs, With mute eloquence it tells of the scene of carnage at its base in 1763. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 35 The siege of Fort Pontchartrain went on with various noteworthy episodes and continued for six months. In October the besiegers began to disappear, and Pontiac returned to the Maumee country, when he found the final treaty of peace was signed between France and England, and that no help could henceforth come from the French in Canada. In 1764 General Bradstreet came with a force and relieved the worn-out garrison. He made a treaty of peace with the Indians. The importance of Detroit was now fully recognized, and it was made the central point for all the western interests. In 1776 one Captain Phillip de Jean, an emigrant from France was appointed a magistrate for Detroit by the British Lieutenant-Governor Hamilton, then in command here, on the 18th of March, 1776. Under Hamilton's orders he tried one John Contencineau for stealing some beaver, otter and raccoon skins from Abbott & Finchly, fur dealers, and Ann Wylie, formerly a slave of Abbott & Finchly, on a charge of stealing a purse containing six guineas, etc. Justice De Jean found them guilty and his sentence was that they be "hanged, hanged, hanged, and strangled until they be dead, on the King's Domain," and they were hanged. Gov. Hamilton and De Jean soon after left on a military expedition to "the Illinois," where they were made prisoners by Gen. George Rogers Clark, whom the State of Virginia had sent over the Alleghanies with a small force to protect the infant settlements of the west. Hamilton and De Jean never returned to Detroit. Had they done so they would have been tried for murder, as the Governor-General and Chief Justice had caused warrants to be issued from Quebec for their arrest. Under the British rule many improvements were made here. New barracks for officers and soldiers were built. 36 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. During the American Revolution about 500 British troops were stationed here, under the command of Major Lernoult (or Leverault, as in the diary of Judge May, who was a resident here at the time). The success of the American arms at Vincennes in 1778, and the prospect that the victorious troops would continue their course onward to Detroit, induced Major Lernoult to erect a large earth fort here on the " second terrace " back of the city. It occupied what now are four squares, bounded on the east by Griswold street, west by Wayne street, north by Lafayette street and south by Congress street. This efficient fortification was called Fort Lernoult, which name it bore until after the battle of the Thames, in 1813, when it was changed to Fort Shelby, in honor of Governor Shelby, of Kentucky, who at the advanced age of sixty-six years, commanded in person the Kentucky volunteers in that battle. It was occupied by United States troops until 1827, when it was razed. By the treaty of peace in 1783 between Great Britain and the United States, it was claimed that Detroit was within American bounds. This was disputed by the Canadian authorities, and when General Washington sent Baron Steuben to Quebec to make arrangements for the transfer of the northwestern forts, including Detroit, Sir Frederick Haldimand declined to surrender them, and refused him a passport to Detroit. In 1787 the whole region northwest of the Ohio River claimed by the United States, though still occupied by the British, was organized by Congress into the Northwest Territory and General Arthur St. Clair was appointed Governor. In 1793, the fort at Detroit was occupied by British troops under the command of Colonel England of the 24th regiment. In the strait in front of the city, were anchored a formidable fleet, consisting of the brigs Chippewa and Ot SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 37 tawa, carrying eight guns each, the brig Dunmore, six guns, and the sloop Felicity, armed with two swivels, all belonging to His Majesty George III, and under command of Commodore Grant. In 1794 a treaty was executed between Mr. Jay, as American Minister, and the British Secretary for Foreign Affairs, Lord Grenville, whereby it was agreed that the forts should be given up on or before June 2d, 1796. By the stipulations of the treaty of Grenville, made by General Anthony Wayne with the Indian tribes, in 1795, Detroit and all the Northwest Territory became the undisputed property of the United States, and the following year Captain Porter, with a detachment from General Wayne's army, took possession of.Detroit and hoisted the first flag bearing the Stars and Stripes that ever floated in Detroit. Before evacuating the fort the British soldiers filled the well with stones, broke the windows of the barracks, locked the gates and gave the keys to an old negro who surrendered them to Captain Porter. Slavery always existed in the Province, and Africans were held in slavery in Detroit as late as 1807, nothwithstanding the ordinance of 1787 declared that " there shall neither be slavery nor involuntary servitude in the said Territory, otherwise than in the punishment of crime." Under sanction of the Grand Lodge of Canada, in 1794, the first lodge of Free and Accepted Masons, styled " Zion Lodge, No. 10," was organized in Detroit. On the 18th of August, 1796, Winthrop Sargent, ActingGovernor of the Northwest Territory, set apart the County of Wayne. Its boundaries extended from Cuyahoga River (Cleveland), westward about to the dividing line now existing between Indiana and Illinois, and thence northward to the national boundary line, including all of the subsequent 38 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Territory of Michigan, which embraced Wisconsin and a portion of Ohio and Indiana. Detroit was the county seat. A Court of Common Pleas was organized, and annually the Supreme Court of the Territory held one session at Detroit until 1803, when Michigan was separated from. Ohio. Solomon Sibley, father-in-law of the late C. C. Trowbridge, was the first United States citizen to settle in Detroit after its occupation by the United States in 1796. He was a prominent lawyer in Marietta, Ohio, and came here in 1797. Four years later he married the daughter of Col. Ebenezer Sproat, an officer of the Revolution, at Marietta, and made the journey with his young bride from there to Detroit on horseback; en route they stopped at the hospitable home of Major Jonathan Cass, where they first saw Lewis Cass, the future soldier and statesman. He was then fresh from Dartmouth, and at the time engaged pounding samp in a hollow stump. Mr. Sibley filled various public stations during his long residence here-the last, one of the Judges of the Supreme Court. Stephen Mack was the first American merchant in Detroit; he commenced business here in 1799. He was a captain in the Michigan Legion, commanded by Major James Witherell, in the war of 1812. John Francis flamtramck, a distinguished officer of the Revolution-Colonel of the ist Regiment U. S. Infantrywas the first Commandent of Detroit and its dependencies after its occupation by the United States. He was appointed by President John Adams in 1799. He died April 11, 1803, and was buried in Ste. Anne's Church Cemetery. His remains were removed several years ago and now repose in Mt. Elliott Cemetery. On the 18th of January, 1799, the Queen's birthday was celebrated in Sandwich, with a grand bal para, at night, which was attended, on invitation, by the officers of the Fort and many citizens of Detroit. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 39 At a session of the Legislature of the Northwest Territory held at Chillicothe, in the winter of 1801-2, the Town of Detroit was incorporated with a Board of Trustees. By an act of Congress passed in 1804, section 16, of the public lands, in each township was reserved for the use of schools within the same, and a township in each of the districts afterwards forming Michigan, Indiana and Illinois, for seminaries of learning. For a detailed history the reader is referred to Mrs. Sheldon's "-Early History of Michigan," Judge Campbell's "Political History of Michigan," and Farmer's forthcoming "Illustrated History of Michigan." THE TERRITORY OF MICHIGAN was created by an act of Congress passed January 11th, 1805, to take effect June 30th of that year, with Detroit as the seat of government, and the ordinances of 1787 and 1789 as the charter of the Territory. William Hull, a distinguished officer of the Revolution from Massachusetts, was appointed governor, and Augustus B. Woodward, Frederick Bates and John Griffin, judges. On the 11th of June, 1805, the day before the arrival of the governor and judges, the town of Detroit was entirely destroyed by fire, and instead of finding a flourishing town enjoying a lucrative and remunerative Indian trade, they found only smoking ruins. The town destroyed was compactly built within pickets, covering four blocks of the present city, between Griswold and Wayne streets, and Lamed and Woodbridge streets. The fort and barracks on the rising ground or second terrace outside of the palisades, afforded an asylum for the governor and suite. Along the present line of Randolph street from the river to the Savoyard creek a strip of land, an arpent in width, had been taken from the Brush farm, and sold 40 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. in lots to parties who had constructed thereon a row of better class dwellings. Here and among the hospitable farmers on either shore of the strait, many with children, the sick and aged found refuge, while on the common or "King's Domain," not allowed to be built upon, between Griswold and Randolph streets, the greater.numbers of the suddenly impoverished inhabitants, constructed rude huts of brushes, bark and such materials as they could find, which afforded them shelter until more substantial houses were provided, which was done before the rigor of winter set in. Joseph Campau at once proceeded to erect on the foundation of his old homestead, the house torn down in 1879 on Jefferson avenue. Peter Andrain, secretary of the Territory, also at once rebuilt. Many other dwellings and business places were soon built. There was much suffering among those who had lost their all. The accompanying map of the old Town of Detroit was drawn by Thomas Smith, surveyor, in 1796. In 1842 Cornelius O'Flynn and Bela Hubbard were appointed commissioners to adjust claims to lots in the old town at the time it was burned, and other purposes, by the Common Council, sitting as a land board, under an act of Congress. To enable them to locate the precise site occupied by the old town, according to the surveys of Thomas Smith, fortunately two points still remained intact. These were the foundations of the jail on Wayne street, and the Joseph Campan house on Jefferson avenue. From these they were enabled to project the Smith map on the map of the new city, laid out by the Governor and Judges, as shown in the engraving. The old town was Entirely Destroyed by Fire June 11, 1805. Shortly after the catastrophe Congress passed an act directing the Governor and Judges of the Territory of Michigan to lay out a new town. They completed -~.. ~ 7Detroit in 1796'. ~i~ REFERENCES. IU) I A. Fort Ponchartrain. I B. Powder Magazine. I Id. \I D. Guard House. Av % ý. al I.Kn'(aae I r; I F. Catholic Church...,- --G. Fire started burning the UYM*- ýZ town June 11, x805. L.A T H. Birth place of Rev. Leon---- r-----ard Bacon, D.D., of New Haven, Conn. -- Present Streets. /I I I I, A1111 4. 5 I IN ~P ' I ti if - - -14 1 111!!! - -L3 111-1- -I 0 NA MAP OF THE OLD TOWN OF DETROIT. PROJECTEn ON THE PRESENT MAP OF THE CITY. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 43 their labor, and adopted the new plan in 1807, and they gave to owners of land in the old town an equivalent in land in the new, and to each male inhabitant, twenty-one years of age at the time of the fire, a lot containing six thousand square feet. As shown, the old town covered the site between Griswold and Cass streets, and from the river to Lamed street, and the fort the rise of ground between Congress and Lafayette streets and Griswold and Wayne streets. As a precaution against surprise by Indians no buildings were allowed to be constructed near the stockade inclosing the town, which was constructed of oak and cedar pickets from twelve to fifteen feet high; between the stockade-Griswold street-and the Brush farm on the east was an open common called the King's domain, and on the west the garrison fields. FORT PONTOH ARTRAIN, Shown in the engraving, constructed by the French Government in 1701, and which still remained at the time of the conspiracy of Pontiac, in 1763, was demolished before the revolution of 1776, when in 1778 the British government constructed Fort Lernonlt. After the war of 1812 it was named Fort Shelby, in honor of Governor Shelby, of Kentucky. Previous to the construction of this fort the citadel shown in the plan was picketed in and contained officers' quarters and barracks sufficient to contain from three hundred to four hundred men; a provision store, hospital and guard house; over the gates of the town were block houses, each of which had fout guns (six pounders). There were besides two sixgun batteries fronting the river and in parallel direction with the block houses. Fort Shelby was being razed when the writer came here in 1827. King's Wharf, shown in the map near the foot of Wayne street, consisted of a crib of logs filled in with stone and 44 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. gravel, and was about one hundred and fifty feet from the shore with which it was connected by a bridge or plank-way. It was the only wharf in front of the city as late as 1816. When the writer came here in 1S27, the sloop of war Ghent, the supply ship to Perry's fleet, was sunken and rotting alongside the wharf, which was then known as the Public Wharf. Mr. Oliver Newberry purchased it from the United States and built a solid earth wharf there. Near the public wharf there was a smnall store-house belonging to Henry J. Hunt, which was the only building that escaped the conflagration, and it was the last remnant of the old town. It was taken down 1830. The brick store-house of the United States at the foot of Wayne Street was taken down in 1832. THE ORIGINAL FREEHOLDERS. That part of the town not required for public use was subdivided into fifty-nine lots. The names of the freeholders in the old town were: Askin, Abbott, McDonald, McDougall, Meldrum, Parke, Grant, Chagrin, McGregor, Campau, McKea, Oadney, Macorb, Roe, Howard, Tremble, Sparkin, Leith, Williams, Ridley, Frazer, Haines, Dolson, Jayer, Lefoy, Thebauld, Duhamel, St. Cosmo, Belanger, Cote, LaFleur, Scott, LaFontain, Bird, Starling, Andrews, IHarfoy and Ford. " THE KINGCS PALACE." The commandant's headquarters, noted in the engraving, was a square two-story wooden house, the only one in the place, the others being one story with steep roofs a'nd dormer windows. In the rear of this, near the water-side, was a Council House, for the purpose of holding counsel with the Indians. The Catholic Church, noted in the engraving was 60x40 feet, having had two steeples and two bells. It was erected in 1723. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 45 THE STREETS IN THE OLD TOWN Were fifteen and twenty feet wide. The widest was St. Ann, running nearly on a line of the present Jefferson Avenue. A carriage-way encircled the town just inside the palisades, called Chemin du Ronde. This was twenty feet wide. Sidewalks there were none. AFTER THE FIRE, Hon. James May, father of the late Mrs. A. D. Fraser, gathered the stones of which the chimneys in the houses were built-there being no brick made here-and built a stone house with them, which, in 1836, was used as a hotel, called the "Mansion House." It was the leading hotel of the city and headquarters for army officers, government officials, and leading Democratic politicians. It was situated on the north side of Jefferson Avenue, west of Cass street. Judge May was an Englishman who came here a young man in 1778-now a century gone. He was Chief Justice of the Court of Common Pleas, established here immediately after General Wayne took possession of the country, under Jay's treaty in 1796. At the surrender of General Hull in 1812, when the American flag was hauled down at the fort, he got possession of it and kept it secreted until the approach of Harrison's army, the following year, when he hoisted it as a signal that the British had evacuated. Judge May carried more weight on the bench than any Judge of modern times, except, perhaps, Senator Davis, of Illinois. His weight was 340 pounds. THE L" RIVER SAVOYARD Was but a large creek, draining the common and adjacent farms on the east. It discharged into the Detroit River near the east line of the Jones farm. Canoes and flat-boats passed up this stream to the farms on the east. Good fishing along its banks extended far up into the farms, but the subterra 46 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. nean creeks-sewers-have done the work for the Savoyard. Not a vestige' of it now remains; the willows that lined its banks have all disappeared, and the last of the sycamores that marked its course was cut down on Shelby street a few years ago, and the only known relic of by-gone old Detroit is the piece of flag staff of Fort Lernoult deposited in the Public Library, Peter Berthelet, a descendant of Savoy, at an early day, had a pottery on the river bank at the outlet of the " Savoyard." He bore the nick-name " Savoyard," hence the name given the creek. Mr. Berthelet had a number of heavy cast-iron plate stoves, brought by him from Montreal, which he hired out from three to ten dollars per winter. He accumulated a large estate in Detroit, and afterwards removed to Montreal, where he died about fifty years ago, the wealthiest man in Canada. Hon. Levi E. Dolson, still a resident here, when a child was rescued from drowning in the " Savoyard," into which he had fallen on Griswold, at Congress street. The late Peter Desnoyers was the last living witness of the conflagration. The Catholics had sustained a Mission in Detroit since 1701. Its church, St. Ann's, was the only house of worship here at the time of the fire. In the new plan of the city the church site was found to be near the center of Jefferson avenue, west of Griswold street. It therefore became necessary to obtain a new location, and the Governor and Judges, in 1806, authorized the church to be built in the the center of the little military square on " Section No. 1," its present locality. They also, on the petitions of Angelique Campau and Elizabeth Williams and Rev. Gabriel Richard, donated a lot for a new school, and one for a boys' academy. In 1807 they granted a lot on which to build a Protestant Church, on the northeast corner of Woodward Avenue and Lamed street, and a house of worship was erected there, known as the First Presbyterian Church. Rev. John Mon SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 47 teith was the first Protestant clergyman employed. The congregation composed all the different Protestant denominations then represented in the city. No distinctive creed was adopted. Some years later the lot was divided and the Episcopalians built the old St. Paul's Church on the north part, both of which have long since given place to mercantile structures. Donation lots were granted to the Methodist and Baptist Churches, and to the Mechanics' Societyand burial grounds to the Catholic Church. In 1807 the inhabited part of the town was enclosed in a a strong stockade by order of Governor Hull, in consequence of manifested disaffection among the Shawnees, Wyandottes and other Indian tribes in the vicinity, who threatened the destruction of the city. During that year Governor Hull effected a treaty with all the various tribes except the Shawnees. SOCIAL LIFE IN THE EARLY DAYS. In social life the French characteristics predominated. Judge James May, an Englishman who resided here from 1778 until he died in 1830, said, " The citizens all lived then like one family (referring to the time he came), had Detroit assemblies, where ladies never went without being in their silks. The people dressed very richly. Assemblies were once a week, and sometimes once a fortnight. Dining parties were frequent, and they drank their wine freely." After the day's business was over in summer the older citizens spent their evenings in social visiting, and by the younger in paddling their own canoes on the blue strait, by moonlight promenading on the green lawns beneath the extensive orchards of pear-trees, or along the gravel beach, or in dancing at the farm houses,, by turn, which fronted the river, not more than four arpents apart, from the city to Grosse Point. A fiddle was in every house, and music 48 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. would soon bring sufficient numbers together for a dance any pleasant evening. The following order was recently found among the papers of the late patriarch, Joseph Campau. JANUARY 17, 1807. Mr. Campau will please furnish for the Grand Marie Party on Saturday next, provided there is carioling, a qr. of roast beef and a pair of fowls ready for the spit. MAJOR ERNEST. JAMES ABBOTT. James Abbott was brother-in-law of Gen. Whistler, U. S. A., and postmaster at Detroit for a quarter century until 1832, and manager of the American Fur Company's business in Michigan for same time. The following description of the " Grand Marie Party " is from Mrs. Sheldon's History: "In winter, when a vast sea of ice separated them from their eastern neighbors, and their Indian allies were far in the depths of the forest engaged in the chase, the denizens of the fort and of the crowded town gave themselves up to unrestrained pleasure seeking. Three dr four miles above the city was a large marsh called by the French Le Grand Marais. It extended down to the river brink, and when the autumnal rains came the entire surface was submerged, and the wintry frosts soon converted it into a miniature sea of glass. In the absence of sufficient snow for sleighing, the Grand Marais, which could be readily gained by the icy margin of the river, was a favorite drive for the citizens; and late in autumn the young men of the town would erect on its border a long one-story building, with stone chimneys at each extremity, and furnished with rude tables and benches. Every Saturday morning during the long cold winter, SKETOHES OF DETROIT. 49 carioles, filled with gay young men and laughing girls might be seen gliding over the glassy surface of the ice-bound river, or, if there was snow, flying along the river road, where now extends the broad and beautiful Jefferson avenue, each finally landing its freight of life and beauty at the Hotel D u Grand Marais. The box seats of the'cariole were always well filled with mysterious baskets and packages, which were speedily transferred to the aforesaid long tables, and soon the rattling of the dinner service was heard in the lulls of the gay chatter of the French girls; and the aroma of the, fragrant Mocha escaped into the frosty air in delicate smoke wreaths-an incense of anticipation to the coming repast. As soon as the dinner was over, the tables and benches were removed, and dancing commenced, which continued until the booming of the evening gun at the fort warned the merry party that "The evening shades might be but vantage ground For some ill foe." The next day, Sunday, after morning mass, the gentlemen were accustomed to resort to the Grand ^rMarais and spend the day in carousal and feasting on the remains of yesterday's store. Sleigh riding on the ice, and ball and parties in town, filled up the week's interim. The summer's earnings scarce sufficed for the winter's waste. THE LITTLE CHURCH BY THE RIVER, where morning mass was attended, was a small, wooden chapel close by the river side, on the James Campau farm, near where now is the foot of Dubois street; and it was the only edifice dedicated for divine worship on the strait -d'Etroit. St. Anne's, in the old town, was burned in the conflagration two years before, and the new St. Anne's had not yet been built. Of this chapel the late Col. Wilkins 50 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. " W. D. W."-wrote: It was built by one of the earliest French settlers, I believe by an ancestor of the late Joseph and Barnabas Campau, in fulfilment of a vow made to the Blessed Virgin during a storm on his voyage from Normandy to Canada. It stood on a solid oak frame and foundation, though with crumbling, weather-beaten sides, with moss-covered belfry, with the tiny but musical bell that came from La Belle France, and with massive iron handles to the double leaves of the door, each bearing the fleur de lis, proud badge of the Bourbons. It was here that the adventurous voyagemrs and coureurs des bois heard, their last mass and took farewell of friends and relatives and gave the parting kiss to one who was dearer than either,, before departing on their long and perilous canoe voyages over stormy lakes, through unknown streams, amidst dense forests, through savage bands, more inhospitable~than wood, lake or storm, to the far, fa.r distant La Pointe, or Lake of the Woods, or Mississippi's sources, or wherever the quest of commerce led their dauntless, patient, merry hearts. Here the gay voyagqemr, returning with halloo and song and gunfire from his long and perilous journey, decked with red sash and beadwork, and passing rich from the perils and profits of journey and chase, was wedded to the bright-eyed demoiselle who had been patiently waiting for him in the high-roofed one-story farm-house by the bank of the stream; and here they drove in gay procession through the narrow streets of La "Fort" to display the gallantry of the groom and the beauty and fine attire of the bride. It was a most interesting little building, almost the only one we had left in historic old Detroit, city of three domninions and five wars, hallowed with the most romantic and sentimental associations. But it stood in the way of a projected saw-mill, the few feet of space occupied by its venerable and sacred walls were needed for lumberpiles, and in 1848 the little church disappeared, and I pre THE MORAN HOUSE. BuILT IN 175o.-THE OLDEST HOUSE IN MIlCHIGAN. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 53 sume its existence has been forgotten, except by the older inhabitants, among whom I am beginning to class myself. It would have cost but little to have preserved the little time-honored chapel, and I think what a precious relic it would be now." * * * "It seems a pity that we have not a little reverence for the olden time in Detroit, or, rather, that we have not had it before; for except the "old Joseph Campau house" on Jefferson avenue, all the buildings which might have recalled the joyous, adventurous, romantic age of the French habitan and the British garrison and trader are gone." Since the foregoing was written the "1old Joseph Campan house," and the "1Cass house," constructed by Cadillac, the founder of Detroit, 1701, have been torn down. Not a dollar could be raised or appropriated to save these ancient relics, although public appeals were made to procure their removal to the city park and put in a state of preservation to be used as storehouses for a museum of relics of the past, present and future ages. The oldest house now remaining within the city limits, and probably in the state, is the "Moran farmhouse," between Woodbridge and Franklin and Hastings and St. Antoine streets, which was built on that spot by Pierre Moran, grandfather of the late Judge Charles Moran, about 1750. It is the only house remaining from behind which the Indians fired on the retreating British soldiers after their surprise and desperate and bloody strife with Pontiac's warriors at Parent Creek-Bloody Run-in 1763. Another ancient structure stands on the margin of the river east of the residence of W. B. Wesson, Esq. It was built by the grandfather of our esteemed townsman, Alexander Chapoton, Esq., in 1802, for John Francis Hamtramck, the first military commandant of Detroit after its cession to the United States, appointed by John Adams, the second President of the United States, in 1799. The gigantic elm in front of the house on the bank of the Detroit river, ante 54 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. dates its existence. General Hamtramck was a distinguished officer of the American Revolution, coming from France with La Fayette. His remains repose in Mt. Elliott cemetery. James Witherell, Territorial Judge, appointed by Jefferson in 1807, occupied the house with his family until 1811. Later the Judge purchased a farm nearer the city, now far within the settled limits of the city, known as the " Witherell farm," where he resided until his death in 1838. The Last Relic of "La Fort," i. e., Fort Pontchartrain, was a rust-eaten cannon, made of square, wrought-iron bars, and bound with bands of the same. It was found in moving earth from the site of the Fort in 1822, and dumped with the earth into a wharf being filled for John Roberts, between Bates and Randolph streets, which, by the way, was the first earth wharf made on the river front. THE ONLY RELIC OF FORT SHELBY, FORMERLY FORT LERNOULT, constructed by the British during the American Revolution, in 1778, is the ground end of the flagstaff of the fort, now deposited in the Public Library. It is Norway pine, about twelve inches in diameter, as now dressed for preservation. It was unearthed five years ago, while excavating for a basement to a residence on Fort street, at the point where the flagstaff of the fort stood, when it was broken off by the wind, some years before the fort was dismantled. The British kept a force of about 500 troops here during the Revolution, by whom this formidable earth fort was built. It was given the name of the commandant, which is in doubt. Mrs. Sheldon in her history has "Fort Le Noult," Judge Campbell "Fort Lernoult," and the late Judge James May, an Englishman, who was here at the time it was built, in his memorandum, speaks of "Major Leverault commanding officer of the post, and its dependencies." Rev. Gabriel Richard, a priest of the order of St. Sulspice, C. H. ROBERTS, 1883. RESIDENCE OF JOHN FRANCIS HAMTRAMCK, COL. IST REGIMENT U. S. INFANTRy. FIRST U. S. COMIMANDANT OF DETROIT. APPOINTED BY JOHN ADAMS, 2D PRESIDENT U. S., IN 1799. HoUsE BUILT IN 1802. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. came here in 1798, as pastor of the old Catholic church of St. Anne, in the old town, which was burned in 1805. Shortly after he came he celebrated with the rites of the church, many marriages that had previously been performed civilly. In 1809 he brought here the first printing press in Michigan, and published a small gazette called the "Michigan Essay; or, Impartial Observer," and some religious and educational works., Father Richard was a very public spirited citizen. The stone church of St. Anne constructed by him, towards the cost of which he appropriated his entire pay as a Member of Congress--to which he was elected in 1823-still remains a monument of his enterprise. He died of cholera in 1832. During his long residence of thirty-four years here, he had the respect and esteem of the entire community, Protestants as well as Catholics. At his funeral, notwithstanding the universal dread of the disease, the concourse of citizens was greater than the entire population of the city, so great was the number that came from the adjacent country. Judge Bates resigned in 1807, and James Witherell, a member of Congress from Vermont, a distinguished officer of the American Revolution, was appointed by Jefferson in his place. In the war of 1812, Judge Witherell was Major of the Michigan Legion. On the capitulation of Hull he was sent as a prisoner of war to Kingston, Canada, where he was paroled, and returning to Detroit resumed his seat on the bench. Under an act of Congress the court was reorganized and Judge Witherell was the only one of the three judges reappointed, and he was made presiding judge, which position he held until 1828, when he was appointed Secretary of the Territory. Judge Witherell died January 9, 1838. The State Legislature and bar of the Supreme Court passed resolutions of respect to his memory, and both bodies attended his funeral. "Some when they die, die all; their mouldering clay Is but an emblem of their memories; The space quite closed up thro' which they passed." 58 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. But his son, Benj. F. H. Witherell, occupied very important places in the affairs of the city and State, and was Judge of the Wayne Circuit Court at the time of his death in 1867, and his grandson, Thomas W. Palner, U. S. Senator from Michigan, made for himself a record which has given him official position second only in the Federal Government. An Earthquake in Michigan. In 1812, in a letter to a friend in Vermont, Judge Witherell said: "On the morning of the 23d of January last at 30 minutes past 8 o'clock, as I sat reading by the fire at Col. Watson's, I felt an unusal sensation. I thought that something must be the matter with me. I felt an agitation that I could not account for. But I soon observed that the walls of the house were in motion, north and south. I got up, stepped to a bed-room door and asked my daughter if she perceived that the house trembled. She replied that she did, and thought that some one was shaking her bedstead. I then discovered that a small looking-glass which was hanging on the wall, was swinging to and fro several inches, and the shade trees in the yard were waving considerably north and south. Dr. Brown informed me that his stove rolled very much, and that a cradle was set to rocking smartly, though there was no one near it. A little girl who had crossed the lake in a vessel last fall, tottered about and called out, 0, mother, we-are in the vessel again.' " Cook's house shook more than most others, probably because it was higher, and the frame new and stronger. A, Frenchman at Grosse Point says, that by the shock, his bowl of mush and milk was spilt. The ice in the river was split for several miles." This was the first earthquake in Michigan of which there is any record. There were no newspapers here at that time to chronicle the event. The next and last shock of earth SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 59 quake felt here occurred in 1869, which was severe enough to crack the wall of a brick house on Jefferson avenue. In the same letter Judge Witherell gave the following account of A DISTURBANCE IN THE WATERS OF ORCHARD LAKE. " You will remember that there is a lake s'ome thirty miles north of this towards Saginaw. It is several miles in circumference and in it an island. There are no inhabitants near it except Indians, and they say that on the 17th of December last, the waters of the lake began to boil, bubble, foam and roll about as though they had been in a large kettle over a very hot fire, and that in a few minutes up came great numbers of turtles and hurried to the shore, upon which they had a great turtle feast." This lake must have been Orchard Lake, although then not so named. The whole interior of Michigan was then a wilderness in possession of the natives of the forest. DETROIT IN 1811. The accompanying engraving shows the progress made in rebuilding the city six years after it was destroyed by fire, and four years after the plat of the new town was adopted. It is from a painting 14x6 inches, drawn in water colors by George W. Whistler, son of the late Col Whistler, U. S. A., and brother of the late Mrs. James Abbott. It is a little boy's picture, drawn by him while attending school here. As a picture it has no value, but as a bit of history it is certainly interesting. In after years Mr. Whistler graduated at West Point and became an engineer of considerable fame, and was at the head of'the corps of engineers under the Russian Government, at the time of his death. The picture was found some years since among the effects of Col. John Kingsbury, commandant of the post at Detroit at that time, by his son, S. H. C. Kingsbury, residing in 60 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Franklin, Conn., who wrote to the late A. D. Fraser that he had placed it in the hand of Charles I. Lanman, Esq., with the request " to send it to some one in Detroit, who would take care of it." Mr. Fraser placed the letter in my hands, when, as one of the curators of the Michigan Historical Society, I wrote to Hon. Charles Lanman, Washington City, requesting it or a copy of it for the society, who at once forwarded it to me to be presented to the Historical Society. No meeting of the society having been held since, I take the liberty of reproducing it here. The picture gives a view from the river of the rear of the buildings constructed on Jefferson avenue, between the east and west lines of the city. Many of the buildings are recognized by old residents, who point out the residences of Governor Hull, on the extreme east, next of Barnabe Campau, Judge Chipman, Judge Whipple, Joseph Campan, Conrad Seek, Capt. Dodemead, Roby, etc., and the Truax House. on the extreme west, occupied by Col. Kingsbury as his head-quarters while in command here. The Joseph Compau house shown in the picture, was the first constructed after the fire. It was built on the foundation of the residence of Mr. Campau that was burned, which foundation was laid in 1750, on which was built the officer's mess-house of Fort Pontchartrain. Mr. Campau became the possessor of it in 1796, and lived there during his life. This house was torn down in 1881 to give place to the five-story iron-front store erected on its site by his son-in-law, Francis Palms. The Campau house was a frame building 45x50 feet, two stories high, with Mansard roof and dormer windows. At the time of the discovery of the country, in 1610, the site was covered by an Indian village, by a tribe known as the Iroquois, and in 1701 by Fort Pontchartrain. The Governor Hull house, shown in the picture, was built in 1807. It was the first brick house built in Michigan. It was burned in the great fire of 1848. tz) ~ 0 00 o SHETCHES OF DETROIT. 63 The small building near the long wharf was the only house that escaped the conflagration of 1805. The site of the town burned covered the west half shown in the engraving, on the first terrace, extending from the river to what now is Lamed street. Fort Shelby and the cantonment buildings were back of the town, on the second terrace, across the " River Savoyard," and west of Gi- wold street. wAR oF 1812. In anticipation of war with Great Britain, General Hull, Governor of Michigan, was appointed commander-in-chief of all the forces of the Northwest. An army of twelve hundred men, which was considerably augmented by volunteers, was collected at Dayton, Ohio. This force was divided into three regiments, commanded by Colonels McArthur, Cass and Finelly. To which was added the 4th U. S. Infantry, commanded by Colonel Miller, made famous by his modest " I'll try, sir." This army left Dayton for Detroit about the middle of June, when after cutting their way through a trackless forest and enduring many hardships it arrived on the 5th of July. War was declared by Congress on the 18th of June, 1812, and the first news reached Hull on his march near Monroe, on the 2d of July. A vessel conveying to Detroit a few sick soldiers, hospital stores, Gen. Hul's baggage and many valuable documents, was captured by the British on entering the river opposite Fort Malden, the astonished crew being informed that war was actually declared. Four days after his arrival in Detroit, Gen. Hull received an order from the Secretary of Wa~l to take possession of Malden, if consistent with the safety of his own posts. Accordingly three days later, on the 12th day of July, he crossed the Detroit River and encamped at Sandwich. After several days of inactivity weary of the monotony of the 64= SKETCHES OF DETROIT. camp, Col. Cass with about 280 men left the camp to reconoiter the ground toward Malden. At the bridge crossing Canard Creek, four miles from Malden, he met and had a skirmish with a small force of British troops; the enemy were routed, with a loss of ten men. Col. Cass took and held possession of the bridge. After nearly a month's inactivity in camp at Sandwich with a brave, vigorous army, ch...ng under restraint, General Hull, intimidated by the hostile manifestations of Indians, and the report that a large force of British troops would soon arrive at Maiden, recrossed the river to Detroit August 9th, without attacking Fort Malden, and on the 15th ingloriously surrendered to the British without firing a gun. The circumstances of the surrender are so well known they need not be repeated here. It was not what was expected of General Hull, for, as an officer in the army of Washington, he had distinguished himself by his bravery. The late Judge B. F. H. Witherell, in a paper read before the Historical Society, in 1859, in speaking of Gov. Hull, said: "The name and memory of Gen. Hull have been loaded with obloquy and reproach. In my boyhood I knew him well. His appearance was venerable and dignified; his heart was the seat of kindness; he was unquestionably an honest man. The 'old settlers' of Michigan, those who knew him well, and who suffered most from the last great error of his life, acquit him of the charge of treason. They believe that age, and perhaps premature decay, had unnerved him; that the responsibility of the command of the army and the charge of the civil goverinment were too heavy for him; but that he'-carried as honest a heart in his bosom as he did when he followed ' Mad Anthony' at the head of his columns, over the ramparts of Stony Point." The compiler of. this will add that when he came here about fifteen years after the capitulation, he heard the matter discussed by citizens, among whom were those engaged in the defense SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 65 of the town, and the prevailing opinion was in accord with that of Judge Witherell. Battle of T'Vyandotte. Shortly after the declaration of war, on the 5th of Augtist, Major VanHorn, a brave officer of the Ohio troops who were en route to Detroit, was surprised and defeated with some loss, at Brownstown, about sixteen miles below Detroit by British troops and Indians, and communication with Ohio was completely cut off. Gen. Hull, seeing the absolute necessity of opening communication with Monroe, where Major Thomas Rowland and Capt. Brush had arrived with a small reinforcement and supplies, ordered Colonel James Miller to march with a force of 600 men and open communication. Col. Miller at once formed his troops on Jefferson avenue in front of the arsenal and thus addressed them: "Soldiers, we are now going to meet the enemy, and to beat them; the reverses of the 5th (VanlI-orn's defeat) must be repaired; the blood of our brethren, spilt by the savages, must be avenged. I shall lead you. You shall not disgrace yourselves or me. Every man who shall leave the ranks or fall back without orders will be instantly, put to death. I charge the officers to execute this order. My brave soldiers, you will add another victory to that of Tippecanoe, another laurel to that gained on the Wabash last fall. If there is now a man in the ranks of the detachment who fears to meet the enemy let him fall out and stay behind." A general "hurrah" followed and the detachment then wheeled by sections into open column and marched off in high spirits, reaching and crossing the River Rouge that night, where they remained until next morning, when they early resumed the march, and in the afternoon found the enemy entrenched at Wyandotte, 10 miles below Detroit, (the old home of the Indian chief, Walk-in-the-water) and at 66 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. once engaged them, and a severe battle ensued. The line advanced and received the fire of the whole front and left flank of the enemy, when the savages gave a tremendous war whoop, in which they were joined by their allies, and a desperate conflict ensued. From the cracking of individual pieces, it changed to alternate volleys and then to one continued sound of wavering roll. The discharge of the sixpounder, of Col. Miller's occasionally burst on the air. Col. Miller, riding along the line cheering on his men, saw the necessity and gave the order " charge with your bayonets," when, with a loud hurrah, in double-quick time his troops marched directly into the enemy's breast-works. Major Antoine Dequindre,. an enterprising merchant in Detroit, with his Michigan volunteers and a company of Ohio volunteers, with the utmost intrepidity carried the breast-works, Dequindre being the first man to mount it, when the enemy broke and fled-the savages to the woods, while the British troops regained their boats and fled to Fort Malden, at the mouth of the river, in Canada. Major Muir, a gallant and experienced soldier who had long commanded at Malden, commanded the enemy's forces which consisted of two hundred regulars, one hundred militia and four hundred and fifty Indians, in all seven hundred and fifty men. They had the advantages of munition and a strong position. Tecumseh, Walk-in-the-water, Mainpot (lame hand), and Splitlog, and chiefs of lesser note, led the savages. Judge Woodwoard-Szrrender of Detroit and M- ssacre at Chicago. On the 6th of January, 1813, the inhabitants of Detroit presented Honorable Augustus B. Woodward, one of the judges of the Territory of Michigan, an address, expressing their acknowledgment and admiration, for his " patriotic and uniform conduct, since the surrender (on the 16th SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 67 August last) of this Territory to His Majesty's arms; in interceding and protecting us suffering citizens and saving our lives and persons from the victorious and insulting savage; in preserving the remnants of our property from pillage, and in aiding the means of departing those who wished to go and find the standard of their country, and also for the spirit of humanity which you have displayed towards the surviving citizens of the unhappy and terrible disaster which took place on the 15th of August last in, the vicinity of Chicago-in procuring the means of preserving those unhappy survivors from the distressing calamities which environed them, and for their restoration to their friends." The Pottawatomie Indians massacred thirty-eight men, two women and twelve children, who had left and abandoned Fort Dearborn (Chicago) and taken up their line of march for Fort Wayne under an escort of Pottawatomies, who, after promising to escort them to Fort Wayne and receiving presents of all the Government property in the Fort, proved treacherous and attacked the party within a mile and a half of the Fort, killing about two-thirds of the party, when the remainder surrendered. The prisoners were divided among the different bands of Indians, who in time reached Detroit. The Commandant, Capt. Heald, and wife, were wounded, as also were Lieut. and Mrs. Helm. Battle of Lake Erie. September 10th, 1813, the hostile fleets of England and the United States on Lake Erie met at the head of the lake above Put-in-Bay Island, and a severe battle ensued. The fleet bearing the red cross of England consisting of six vessels, carrying sixty-four guns, under command of the veteran Commodore Barclay, and the fleet bearing the " broad stripes and bright stars " of the United States, consisting of nine vessels, carrying fifty-four guns, under command of the young and inexperienced but brave Commodore Perry. The result 68 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. of this conflict was made known to the world in the following dispatch, written at 4 o'clock. m., of that day: DEAR GENERAL: We have met the enemy and they are ours. Two ships, two brigs, one schooner and one sloop, With esteem, etc., 0. H. PERRY. GENERAL WILLIAM JONES. This dispatch was sent to General Harrison, who with his army was near Sandusky, to be forwarded to Washington. Perry's fleet was used to convey Harrison's army into Canada, where they were landed about four miles below Malden on the 27th of September, and at once marched into Malden and found it deserted by its defenders. Malden was evacuated on the 18th, at which the Indians were greatly enraged at the cowardice of Proctor. Tecumseh compared him to a fat cur, sneaking off with his tail between his legs, after making a great show of courage. Proctor pacified them by promising to make a stand at Moravian Town on the river Thames. General Proctor was at Sandwich when Harrison entered Malden, and at once retreated with the Detroit garrison. On the 28th of September the American army reached Sandwich, 18 miles from Malden, opposite Detroit. General Duncan McArthur, who was with Hull's army at the time of the surrender, at once crossed over the river to Detroit and took possession of the fort which the British troops had hastily left the day before. Perry's fleet arrived the same day. On the 29th General Harrison issued a proclamation, restoring the civil authority as it had been before the surrender. Colonel Richard M. Johnson's mounted Kentucky riflemen, who came by land from Sandusky, arrived on the 30th and crossed into Canada the next day. Colonel McArthur's command was left at Detroit. Colonel Cass's brigade was left at Sandwich, and General Harrison, with a force of about 3,500, on the 2d of SKETCHES OF DETROIT. October, pursued after Proctor. Commodore Perry and Colonel Cass acted as volunteer aids to the General. The smaller vessels of the fleet sailed up the Thames. On the 5th Proctor was overtaken at Moravian Town on the Thames, where he had made a stand and was prepared for battle. The mounted riflemen at once dashed through the British line and turned it, and in less than ten minutes the whole force was captured except General Proctor and 17 officers and 239 men who escaped. A farmer in the vicinity reported that General Proctor passed his house on his retreat two hours ahead of his soldiers. His brave ally, Tecumseh, was shot and killed by Colonel Johnson while wounded and held down by his horse which had fallen on him, when he (Tecumseh) was approaching to tomahawk him. On the 7th Governor Shelby was put in command of the army and General Harrison left for Detroit. Colonel Iewis Cass was appointed Provisional Governor of the Territory of Michigan by Harrison on the 14th of October, and subsequently was appointed by the President permanent Governor, from which time until the war of the rebellion he was officially connected with the Government. During which time, embracing a period of half a century, he held more important official positions in the Federal Government than any other citizen ever held. First appointed in 1807 by Jefferson, U. S. Marshal of the State of Ohio, Colonel of Ohio Volunteers at the commencement of the war of 1812, and promoted by Madison to the rank of Brigadier-General in the regular army in 1813. His home was in Detroit during his nearly fifty years of continuous service as an officer in the army, Governor of the Territory of Michigan, Secretary of War, Minister to France, United States Senator and Secretary of State of the United States. He was born at 70 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Exeter, New Hampshire, October 9, 1782. He died at Detroit, June 17, 1866. INLAND NAVIGATION FROM THE LAKES TO THE SEA. At a meeting of the Governor and Judges held in January, 1812, a committee reported as follows: "Whereas, the Commissioners of Internal Navigation in the State of New York, have addressed to the Governor and Judges of the Territory of Michigan, a communication relative to a canal in the State of New York, which being considered, Resolved unanimously, that in the opinion of the undersigned the canal contemplated by the Commissioners of Internal Navigation in the State of New York from Black Rock to Rome, would not be so desirable as a canal around the cataract of Niagara, another by the falls of the Oswego." The resolution was adopted, and a copy transmitted in a letter signed by Reuben Atwater, Acting Governor, and Judges A. B. Woodward and James Witherell, addressed to Governor Morris, Dewitt Clinton, William North, Thomas Eddy, Robert R. Livingston and Robert Fulton, Esquires, Commissioners of Internal Navigation of the State of New York. The idea of a water communication from the lakes to the Atlantic Ocean had been under consideration for many years before. To Christopher Colles, an Irishman by birth, left an orphan at an early age, a protege of Richard Pocoke, the famous oriental traveler, belongs the credit of having been not only the first to propose, but the first to bring before the public in a practical formr the feasibility and vast national advantage of a system of water communication which should unite the great lakes and their boundless tributary territory with the Atlantic Ocean. Immediately on the close of the American Revolution, in which he took a conspicuous part, he devoted his whole attention to his favorite project of internal improvements which engaged his atten SKETCRES OF DETROIT. 71 tion before the war. In 1773 he lectured at the Exchange in New York on the advantages of lock navigation. In 1784 he addressed a memorial to the Legislature of New York proposing a plan for inland navigation on the Mohawk river. In 1785 the Legislature voted him ",50 to aid in preliminary surveys," and by indefatigable efforts he secured the introduction of "An act for improving the navigation of the Mohawk river, Wood creek and the Onondaga river, with the view of opening an inland navigation to Oswego, and for extending the same if practicable to Lake Erie." * Here we find the great enterprise, later known as the Erie Canal, taking definite shape, although it was forty years after before it was consummated. The canal was commenced in 1817 and completed and brought into service in 1825, and it was an important agent in promoting settlement in the lake country, and increasing the commerce of the lakes. The journey to the West was made easy and economical, and the country began to settle very fast. Prior to which the steamboat Superior was the only one on the lakes. The Henry Clay and Pioneer were added that year, forming a triweekly line from Buffalo to Detroit, when the population of Detroit, which although a century and a quarter old, did not exceed 1,500 souls, rapidly increased in the next ten years to 5,000, and it has since doubled with every decade to this time. An Irishman first proposed uniting the fresh water of Lake Erie with the salt water of the Atlantic, and Irishmen made the canal, therefore Erie Go Brine would have been an appropriate name for the big ditch. In 1814 Pe-to-big, a Chippewa Indian, killed a Mr. Racine on the River St. Clair. The late Judge B. F. Witherell, about 40 years after it occurred, saw a daughter of Racine, 72 7SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Mrs. St. Pierre, and asked her if she had seen the Indian Pe-to-big since the death of her father. She replied that about twenty years after the murder she saw an Indian coming towards her home, with his blanket doubled up like a pack, and hanging over his shoulder, apparently filled. He entered the house, threw his blanket on the floor, and opened it, displaying his calicoes and other goods which he had received at Maiden, and said: "White squaw, you not know me; I Pe-to-big, me kill your father many, many moons since. Now (pointing to the goods) take your pay for your father." She, of course, refused, and Pe-to-big, "throwing his blanket over his shoulder, again went off, saying," White squaw very bad squaw--always mad; she take no pay for her father." THE FIRST PUBLIC MARKET. The first public market house was built in 1816 by Capt. Benjamin Woodworth, brother of Samuel Woodworth, the printer poet, author of " The Old Oaken Bucket," under a contract with the city for fifteen hundred dollars. It stood in the center of Woodward avenue, about 50 feet south of Jefferson avenue, and covered of about 30 by '70 feet, one story. It was merely a roof supported by brick piers, and enclosed with upright slats three inches apart. It served as a public whipping place until the law was repealed about 1830. The culprits were placed outside with their hands thrust through between the slats and tied on the inside, when the sheriff would apply the raw-hide on the bare back of the victim. In 1816 the mail was brought here on horseback once a week through Ohio, and in bad traveling the mail bag was borne on a man's back, who footed it through the Black Swamp to the Maumee river. It thus continued to be brought until 1827, when the first line of wheel carriages was established between Detroit and Ohio. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 73 There was no place of public worship in Detroit at this time. The Roman Catholics-Rev. Father Richard-held service in the house of Mr. La Salle, on the River road, on what is now known as the Stanton farm. It was here that Father Richard set up the first printing press, and published the first newspaper in Michigan. There were four lawyers and two doctors here at this time. The court-martial and dancing hall of the cantonment, built about this time, was afterwards used as the city courtroom. In 1826 it was moved to Larned street, in rear of the Presbyterian church, and used as a session room and for an infant school, and a few years later it was removed to Congress street, on the site now occupied by the Standish House, and occupied by the City Council until the completion of the City Hall in 1834. PRESIDENT MONROE AT DETROIT. The President of the United States, James Monroe, visited Detroit in the month of August, 1817, two years after the close of the war with England. Hle was accompanied by several distinguished officers. His arrival was celebrated by the firing of cannon, a public dinner, ball, and a grand illumination of the city at night. He was on a tour of observation of the country, having passed through the New England States and visited various important points along the St. Lawrence, Lake Ontario, and Niagara River to Buffalo where he embarked for this city in a sailing vessel, and visited various points on Lake Erie. On the 14th he reviewed the troops, and Governor Cass, on behalf of the State of New York, then presented General Alexander Macomb a magnificent sword, in honor of his conduct at the battle of Plattsburgh. Generals Brown, Wood and McNeal were present. The citizens of Detroit presented President Monroe with a span of horses and carriage with which he returned to Washington by land, 74 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. visiting all important points in Ohio, Pennsylvania and Maryland. The "Detroit Gazette," the progenitor of the "Detroit Free Press," was first published at this time by John P. Sheldon and Ebenezer Reed. It was the first successful newspaper printed in Michigan. "SYMMES' HOLE. In 1818 Judge John Cleves Symmes of Cincinnati, one of the Judges of the Supreme Court of the Northwest Territory, who held court in Detroit regularly annually from 1796 to 1803, propounded his theory of a pleasant and habitable region within the earth, accessible by a large opening near the Arctic circle, and proposed to organize a party to explore and possess it. The "1Symmes Hole" theory was matter of speculation for many years thereafter, and until it was finally settled that an earthquake had rended and opened the rockbed of Lake Superior and its mighty volume of water descended to the moulten mass beneath, when by the force of the steam generated, the precious metals of the floors and walls of the " hole" were forced to the surface of the earth. Then the theorists turned from the Arctic region and sought the pleasant and habitable "1region " on the earth's surface toward the setting sun, and miners swarmed on the shores of the great inland sea, to procure the pure native metals. FIRST STEAMBOAT ON THE LAKES. The steamboat Walk-in-the-water arrived at Detroit on the 27th of August, 1818, with a large number of passengers. It was built at Black Rock, on the Niagara River below Buffalo. Its own motive power had not yet been tried, and it was taken up the strong current in the river by what Commodore Chelsey Blake called a "1horned breeze,"-towed by several yokes of oxen. Major (afterwards Major General) SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 75 Whiting, in a jem d'esprit entitled "1The Age of Steam," read at a 4th of July steamboat ride, in 1830, referred to it as follows "And where was e'er the modern knight, Who, though possessed of second-sight, Twice eight years since could see a boat Within the shadowy future float? Or see one lying at Black Rock, (For Buffalo then had no dock) Compelled to lay the strait below, Till 'horn-breeze' or a storm should blow." The Walk-in-the-water was 330 tons burden. It was wrecked in a gale, and went ashore near Buffalo light-house, Nov. 21, 1821. The steamboat Superior, the second on the lakes, Captain J. Rogers, arrived at Detroit from Black Rock, May 25th, 1822. It was 110 feet keel and 29 feet beam, and 346 tons burden: engine, 59 horse power. An organization known as the "1Scinapa Exploring Company," departed from Detroit Oct. 9, 1821, on their first expedition to explore the wild country which now constitutes the northern counties of the Lower Peninsula of Michigan. The results were of so favorable and important a character that they were published in the " National Intelligencer" and other eastern papers. EARLY PROTESTANT PREACHERS AND CHURCHES. In 1782, Moravian, or United Brethren, ministers, with their Indian flocks, came here from Ohio, and located on Lake St. Clair, at the mouth of the Clinton River, where they built a village, consisting of a street of block-houses, which was called Gnadenhutten. They remained until 1790, when they crossed the lake to Canada, and located on the River Thames, at the place since known as Moravian Town. Richard Connor, whose descendants still live in Mt. 76 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Clemens, did not go with the colony to Canada, but remained on his farm on the Clinton River. The ]rst Protestant preacher to preach and locate in Detroit was Rev. David Bacon, a Congregational minister, sent here a missionary from Connecticut, in 1801. He was the father of the late Rev. Leonard Bacon, of New Haven, Conn., who was born in Detroit. Mr. Bacon also established the first English school here. The late David Cooper was one of his scholars. The Methodists established a society on the River Rouge, about five miles below Detroit, in 1810, and in 1818, erected there the first Protestant church in Michigan. The church was built of hewn logs. Its size was 24x30 feet. It had four windows. It was occupied by the society for about ten years when it was burned. Robert Abbott, father of Mrs. E. V. Cicott, and Auditor General of Michigan, in its Territorial days, born in Detroit in 1771, was the active agent in securing the erection of the chapel. The "First Protestant Society " was organized in Detroit in 1818. It was not denominational, and ministers of various opinions officiated at different periods. Rev. John Monteith, Presbyterian, was the first pastor. In 1822 the Methodist church in Detroit was incorporated. In 1823 the society obtained a donation lot from the Governor and Judges on the southeast corner of Gratiot and Farrar streets, which at that time was far out on the common, the nearest house being one where the Russell House now stands. Here they commenced the erection of a brick meeting house, but the subscription was exhausted in putting up the walls, and the prospect was that it would have to stand during the winter without a roof, which would greatly damage the walls, when the mechanics of the city combined and made a "bee" and on a Sunday put on the roof. They did the work on the Sabbath because they thought they could not afford to give the time any other day. The building SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 77 remained unfinished several years, and was used only in warm weather. It was so far finished that it was regularly occupied in 1827. In 1825, Elias Pattee, the preacher, was permitted to go east as far as the city of New York to raise funds to finish the house. He was absent about three months, and on settlement with him the trustees found after applying all collections towards defraying his traveling expenses, they owed him two dollars and ffty cents. The society continued to occupy this building until 1834, when they moved into their new church, on the northeast corner of Woodward avenue and Congress street, which they occupied until 1847, when they built a brick church on the southwest corner of Woodward avenue and State street. In the latter church pews were rented for the first time. The "First Protestant Society" built a wood church on the northwest corner of Woodward avenue and Lamed street, in 1819, at a cost of $7,000, and shortly after voted to appropriate it to the exclusive use of the Presbyterians. Rev. John Monteith continued the pastor until 1825, when he was succeded by the Rev. Noah M. Wells. In 1834, the wood church was sold to a Universalist society and removed to the north west corner of Michigan avenue and Bates street, and it was used that year as a cholera hospital. Subsequently it was sold to a Roman Catholic society ahd removed to Porter street, in the Eighth ward, where it was known as Trinity Church. This year, 1834, the Presbyterians erected a brick edifice on the site of the old wood one, on Woodward avenue. It was after Grecian architecture, 100x60 feet. In front a pediment supported by six large Doric columns, 24 feet in height, and steeple 130 feet high. Its cost was $25,000. It was not finished and dedicated until 1835, when Rev. John P. Cleveland was installed its pastor. It was burned January 10, 1854. Rev. Alanson W. Walton was the first Episcopal clergyman here. He came here in 1821. In 1825, St. Paul's 78 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Episcopal church was organized, and the society built a brick church 90x50 feet, at a cost of between four and five thousand dollars, on Wood ward avenue, on the west part of the lot donated by the Governor and the Judges to the First Protestant Society. In 1833 it was enlarged by adding 30 feet to its length; the sittings were further increased in 1836 by the addition of a gallery. Mr. Walton died of a prevailing epidemic, and was succeeded, in 1824, by Rev. Richard F. Cadle, who established in due form St. Paul's Church Society. He preached that year in the Government Council House, corner of Jefferson avenue and Randolph street. It was at humble beginning, as for some time scarcely more than " two or three gathered together"" to hear him. Mr. Cadle left here in 1829, and was succeeded by Rev. Richard Berry, who remained until 1833, when his successor was Rev. Addison Searle, a chaplain in the navy. In 1826 the First Baptist Church was organized, and obtained from the Governor and Judges a donation lot on the northwest corner of Fort and Griswold streets, on which, in 1827, they built a small wood church, which they occupied several years, when it was sold to Judge Witherell and removed to where now is the Detroit Opera House, and finished into a dwelling, and subsequently used as a depot by the Detroit and Pontiac R. R. Co. FIRST BANKS. The Bank of Detroit was chartered, in 1806, by the Governor and Judges, with a capital of $400,000, which was owned principally by Boston capitalists. It was designed to be used in connection with the fur trade. The act creating it was disapproved by Congress, in 1807, and the bank was closed. In 1819 the Bank of Michigan was chartered by the Territorial Legislature, and during its many years' existence was SKETCHES OF DETROIT. a very important instrument in the financial affairs of the country. AN EXPLORING EXPEDITION. Governor Cass organized an expedition to explore the country through the upper lakes to the head of the Mississippi. The officers were Gov. Lewis Cass, commander; Dr. Alexander Wolcott, physician; Capt. D. B. Douglass, engineer; Lieut. JEneas Mackay, commander of the soldiers; James Duane Doty, secretary of the expedition; Maj. Robert A. Forsyth, Governor's secretary; Henry R. Schoolcraft, geologist and topographer; Charles C. Trowbridge, assistant topographer, and Alexander R. Chase. The expedition left Detroit on the 24th of May, 1820, in four birch bark canoes, each thirty-three feet long and six feet wide. At Mackinaw they took a twelve-oared barge with an additional escort, to Sault St. Mary, where the Indians were reported unfriendly. The expedition arrived at the Sanlt on the 14th of June. They found the savages surly and under control of the English. The United States had not maintained possession there since the war, and one object of the expedition was to establish a new fort. A council met the Indians at the Governor's tent to ascertain and agree upon the bounds of the concession made many years before the war. The council came to no agreement, and broke up in some disorder. A chief called the "Count," during his speech, planted his war-lance in the ground, with furious gestures, and kicked away the presents laid before him. On leaving the council the Indians went to their own encampment and hoisted the British flag in front of the Count's wigwam. Governor Cass, on discovering this, walked over, with no escort but his interpreter, and took the flag and carried it away, informing the astounded chief that none but the American flag must be raised on our territory, and that if they should again presume to attempt 80 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. such a thing the United States would put a strong foot on their necks and trample them out. This boldness struck them dumb for a while, but they soon sent off their women and children, and made preparation for an attack. The American force numbering sixty-six well armed, got ready to meet them. The head chief, Shingobawassin, who had not been present at the council, interposed and brought the Indians to their senses, and that same day at evening a treaty was signed, releasing to the Americans a tract embracing sixteen square miles. The expedition proceeded along the south shore of Lake Superior, crossing Keweenaw Point, through Portage Lake, and across the land portage, thence to and up St. Louis River to a portage near Savannah River, and down that stream and through Sandy Lake, to the Mississippi, ascending that river through Lake Winnipeg to Upper Red Cedar or Cassina Lake. On their return they descended the Mississippi to the Dubuque mines, and then went up to Green Bay by the Wisconsin and Fox rivers, and there separated. A portion of the company went to Mackinaw and thence directly homeward; the remainder proceeded to Chicago, whence General Cass returned overland to Detroit, the rest coasting along the eastern shore of Lake Michigan. The late C. C. Trowbridge was the last survivor of the expedition. The civilized population of the region explored, including Chicago and Detroit, was less than nine thousand souls at that time, where now there are four states of the Union, with a population numbering millions. Such has been the progress in the west within the life of man. In the West! In the West! "where the rivers that flow Run thousands of miles spreading out as they go; Where the green waving forests that echo our call, Are wide as old England and free to us all; Where the prairies, like seas where the billows have rolled, Are broad as the kingdoms and empires of old; And the lakes are like oceans in storm or in rest," In this forest paradise, the land in the West. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 81 NEW CITY CHARTER-CORPORATE SEAL. In 1824 a new city charter was passed by the Territorial Legislature and Gen. John R. Williams was elected the first Mayor. The Common Council adopted the watch seal of the Mayor, as the temporary corporate seal of the city. The seal, as described of record, was as follows: "Composed of a red camelian, about one inch in diameter, set in gold; in the center is engraved a shield, with the Fleur de lis; under the shield the motto, 'La justice mon dleboir,-Justice is my duty,' and over the shield the letters, 'J. R. W.' " General Williams was re-elected in 1825, and his seal continued to be used as the corporate seal of the city, until the adoption of the watch seal of his successor, Henry J. Hunt, in 1826, which was the corporate seal until the adoption of the present corporate seal, which was designed by Andrew G. Whitney, a prominent lawyer of the Detroit bar, and at the time United States District Attorney for Michigan. The design of the seal is commemorative of one of the historical events which surround this ancient city-its entire destruction by fire in 1805. In the center are the figures of two females, one weeping over a burning city, the other pointing to a new one, surrounded by the motto, "1Speramns meliora; resurget cineribus-We hope for better things, another will rise from its ashes." It is surprising, in these vandal times, when the disposition is to obliterate all old land-marks and relics of the olden times, that this most appropriate design has not been sacrificed for a more fanciful one. JEFFERSON AVENUE EXTENDED-TURNPIKES. The compiler of these sketches came to this goodly City of the Straits, which has ever since been his home, in the spring of 1827, when Jefferson Avenue was being opened and extended east from Brush street across the farms, which extension met with strong opposition from the owners of the 82 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. farms. The only house on the line of the avenue at that time was the residence of the late C. C. Trowbridge, built the year previous, where it now is. There were no buildings north of the avenue, all was cultivated fields between it and the woods, and no other roadway crossed the farms until the following year, 1828, when the Gratiot turnpike was extended across them by the United States Government. The city and Catholic cemeteries--where now is Clinton Park and the St. Mary's Hospital--were opened in the spring of 1827, and were reached through a narrow lane running from Jefferson Avenue, about midway between Beaubien and Antoine streets. Previous to 1827 the only roads leading out of the city east or west, were those up and down on the bank of the river. A road had been opened through the woods north to the Saginaw country before 1826, when the Government opened the Saginaw Turkpike-Pontiac road-and the old road, which was west of the turnpike, was abandoned. The road to Grosse Point, as now, an extension of Jefferson Avenue, was not established for several years after the avenue was extended in 1827, and the only road then to Hudson's, at Grosse Point, was on the river beach. It was a favorite driveway out of the city. The stopping places en route were B. Chapaton's, near "Wesson Place," and Peter Van Every's tavern, near Connor's Creek, where the pumping works of the city water works are located. It has recently been claimed that the house of Van Every was built by Cadillac, the founder of Detroit, and that the pear trees there are some of the veritable old trees brought from France by the early settlers, and a chair made of wood from each was recently presented to a distinguished citizen as a historical relic. For the sake of the truth of history, I would say that the house was built by Cadillac or that the trees were what is claimed, are very improbable, for the following reasons: First, when Cadillac came here in 1701 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 83 there had been no settlements or houses built on the strait by Europeans. The site selected and where he built the fort was on a healthy, elevated spot, about four miles from the locality of that house, which is at the foot of an extensive marsh, and it is highly improbable that he would build a house for his family headquarters in a low, unhealthy spot, as it evidently was at that time, when le had the right to choose any of the very eligible sites on the banks of the strait There were no houses in that vicinity and no road to it, the only ways to reach them from the fort were by the beach or by the canoe. The fort and town he had surrounded with oak pickets, fifteen feet high, to protect the troops and their families from the depredations of the treacherous savages, who were jealous of his movement, and in 1703 made an attempt to burn the fort and town. Is it likely, then, 'that he would have his family headquarters four miles away, outside the stockade? When he came he was accompanied only by his eldest son and his wife, and a younger son joined him the following year, leaving two other children at school in Montreal. He remained here but eight years after, when he went on to his large estate at Mount Desert in Maine. It is not probable that he built any house outside the stockade, except the one for the Indian chief, the Cass House, recently torn down. Cadillac reported to Pontchartrain that his house was burned by the Indians when they attempted to destroy the Fort in 1804, together with the church and Tonti's house. There were no pear trees here during Cadillac's residence here, nor until about thirty years after he had gone. The trees at Van Every's had not attained a size to warrant the supposition that they were among those brought by the first settlers in 1749. About eighty years later, as the writer remembers them, they were not larger than trees he has of his own planting twenty years old. Van Every had a whiskey distillery there, the only one in Michigan at that time. 84 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. FIRST SETTLEMENTS. Down to 1818 the settlements in Michigan were confined to the frontier, and on land grants made by the French and English Governments, which were recognized by the United States. The first sales of land by the United States were made in 1818, but few settlements were made in the interior until the government in 1826-7-8 opened the Saginaw, Chicago and Grand River turnpikes, radiating east, west and north from Detroit, and penetrating the hitherto unbroken forest in the undisputed possession of wild beasts and wild savages, when hardy and enterprising farmers from the State of New York and the New England States made a rush for the oak openings and Grand Blanc prairies, passing by the heavy timbered land near Detroit, because wet and marshy and apparently low and not susceptible of drainage, though gradually rising from the strait, until 18 miles back, reaching an elevation of 400 feet, where now, after clearing and opening to the sun's rays, permitting evaporation, and the cutting of turnpikes, railroads and county ditches, it is as dry and well cultivated as any other section of the State. Emigration rapidly increased after the opening of the turnpikes. Every steamboat arriving here was crowded with farmers, bringing with them horses, cattle, sheep, swine and poultry, household goods and farm implements, the boats returning light, for, as yet, Michigan had no products to export. Many who feared crossing the lake came overland through Canada, their families and goods in covered wagons, and driving their live stock afoot. Many came, not knowing where they would locate, who, after finding shelter for their families, would go "land looking," and after locating land to their liking, return for their families. Houses to rent were scarce, and often from two to five families were domiciled under one roof, while some were forced to lodge on their goods in store or in their covered wagons. SKETOHES OF DETROIT. 85 This, then, really, was the founding of a State, which now, within the lifetime of the first pioneer settlers, takes high rank among the States of the Union, it being ninth in point of population, and first in most essential products and manufactures, and unsurpassed in charitable and educational institutions. A State which entered the Union ten years later-1837-and less than thirty years after sent 90,000 soldiers to the field in its defence. 1836 was a period when every one was mad " with visions prompted by intense desire " after golden harvests, as truthfully drawn by one who was not only midst the whirl but was herself infected with the land fever. We copy from Mrs. Kirkland's " Reminiscence of the Land Fever: " " The whirl, the fervour, the flutter, the rapidity of step, the sparkling of eyes, the beating of hearts, the shaking of hands, the utter abandon of the hour, were incredible, inconceivable. The 'man of one idea' was everywhere; no man had two. He who had no money begged, borrowed or stole it; he who had thought he made a generous sacrifice if he lent it at cent per cent. The tradesman forsook his shop; the farmer his plow; the merchant his counter; the lawyer his office; nay, the minister his desk, to join the general chase. Even the schoolmaster, in his longing to be 'abroad ' with the rest, laid down his birch, or in the flurry of his hopes, plied it with diminished unction. 'Tramp! tramp! along the land they rode, Splash! splash! along the sea!' * * * " On they pressed, with headlong zeal; the silent and pathless forests, the deep miry marsh, the gloom of night, and the fires of noon, beheld alike the march of the speculator. Such searching of trees for town lines! Such ransacking the woods for section corners, ranges and base lines! Such anxious care in identifying spots possess 86 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. ing particular advantages And then, alas! after all, such precious blunders." A FOURTH OF JULY EPISODE. The bitterness of feeling between the inhabitants on either side of this frontier, growing out of the late war which had closed twelve years before, had not wholly died out, and on the fourth of July, 1827, Mr. Cliff, an Englishman, who kept a tavern out on Woodward avenue, near the Grand Circus, raised a tall pole in front of his house, from which floated the United States flag in honor of the day. Unfortunately the flag was up with the union down; seeing which the sailors in port-many of whom were with Perry in the battle of Lake Erie-regarding it as an intended insult, went out in force and chopped down the pole.. RECOLLECTION OF THE MASSACRE OF THE RAISIN. A resident on the opposite shore, who it was thought was somewhat responsible for the massacre at River Raisin (Monroe), ventured across the river to Detroit, for the first time after its occurrence, one Sunday, and was recognized while entering a friend's house on the edge of the river near the ferry. A crowd soon gathered at the ferry waiting his appearance to return, a watch was kept on the house where he was seen to enter until late at night, when it was ascertained he had escaped and recrossed the river in a small canoe, kept by his friend to procure water for culinary purposes, as most did who lived along the shore. He was never known to be on this shore again. A STORY OF A DONKEY. About the year 1828 Major McKinstry had three jacks, two of which he sold to Col. Snelling, who took them to the far West to haul water from the Mississippi for the garrison at the fort lie was building, which now bears his name. The donkey left was old and grieved at the loss of his compan SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 87 ions and became sulky and refused thereafter to do service, and he was given the freedom of the city, and became the pet and'sport of the youth, especially the boys at the Academy, which was on Bates street in a corner of the Protestant Church lot and burying ground, which was the favorite resort of the old donkey. His habit was to linger near the Academy until the boys did appear at recess, when as many as could would mount astride his back, and he would go marching around in the paths amid the grassy mounds in apparent pride with his load. It was a question which enjoyed the sport most-the boys or the donkey. The old donkey was the innocent cause of a ludicrous scene in the church one warm Sunday morning. Beneath an open window he set up a loud, long continued braying, completely drowning the voice of the preacher, who was forced to pause until his donkeyship had his bray out, saying as he did so, " one at a time." The attributed remark was probably the invention of a wag. In 1839 J. M. Stanley, the artist, while on his tour among the western tribes of Indians, tarried a while at Fort Snelling. While there, the two jacks taken there by the Colonel were pointed out to him as two old Detroiters, and in a sketch he made of the fort for the writer, the jacks are shown, hitched tandem to a water-cart, going up the road from the river to the top of the high bluff on which the fort is situated. Let another draw the likeness of the old donkey. At a menagerie in 1833-the first one here-where Black Hawk, his son and prophet, who had been confined in the Fort at Norfolk since their capture the year before, and were being taken back to his nation, were guests, a Frenchman from the rural district said to Mr. Theodore Williams, pointing toward an animal: " Monsieur William, what you call him dat?" On being answered that it was a zebra, he, with a look of indignant scorn, said: " Zebra, eh, sacre Boston 88 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. nia, he no fool dis Frenchman wid dat, dat way-he be one jackass paint. Sure! Just wipe off de paint, he be just like old jackass of Major McKinstry." TERRITORIAL POLITICS. During the Presidental canvass of 1828 the Federal officeholders here were very reticent in regard to their preference of candidates,-Adams or Jackson, but all of them were supposed to be Adams men. Indeed there were but three known outspoken Jackson men here. They were Judge Leib, Samuel Caldwell and John D. Gray, the reputed author of Morgan's Book on' Masonry. At the inauguration of Jackson all the Federal officers, from Governor down, repaired to Washington and returned with renewed commissions. While stopping at the Steam Boat Hotel, the landlord, who was an ardent Adams man, asked Daniel LeRoy, who was reappointed United States District Attorney, how it happened that all of the officers, who, before the election, were strong Adams men, were now all Jackson men? "0," said LeRoy, " the catechism has been altered. It used to read, 'IIn Adam's fall we sinned all;' it now reads, 'In Adams' fall we are Jackson all.'" LeRoy was a very pleasant, good-natured gentleman and a shrewd politician. When, some years later, he was a candidate for the Territorial Legislature, a neighbor opposed to him had lost a pig and charged his loss to LeRoy. LeRoy, though indignant, took no notice of the charge and told his supporters not to say anything about it. LeRoy was elected and after the election he told his neighbor where he could find his pig, which he knew to be in a neighboring wood. When asked why he did not deny the slander and show its falsity by telling where the pig was before the election, said he knew where the pig was all the while, but had he denied it and made a fuss and talked about it, he would SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 89 have been beaten. This was during the anti-Masonic political excitement. There were but 41 miles of railroad in operation in the United States in 1830. That year the Legislature of Michigan adopted a memorial to the general government in favor of the establishment of a canal or railroad route from Detroit to the mouth of St. Joseph River on Lake Michigan, and in 1832 incorporated the Detroit and " St. Joseph Railroad Company." In 1834 the route was surveyed by Lieut. J. M. Berrien under authority of the War Department. His report was submitted to a convention of the friends of the measure, held in Detroit, in December 1834, when a company was organized. The directors and officers were as follows: Maj. John Biddle, President; Charles C. Trowbridge, Oliver Newberry, Shubael Conant, Edmund A. Brush, Henry Whiting, J. Burdick, H. H. Comstock, Mark Norris and C. N. Ormsby, Directors; John M. Berrien, Chief Engineer; A. J. Center, Assistant Engineer; and John L. Talbot, Secretary and Treasurer. This company commenced the construction of the road in 1836, and after expending the sum of $139,702.79, sold the road to the State in 1837, when it was completed and opened to Ypsilanti in 1838, to Ann Arbor in 1839, to Jackson in 1842, and to Kalamazoo-143 miles-in 1843, and in 1846 it was sold to the Michigan Central Railroad Company for the sum of $2,000,000, which company extended it to Chicago in 1852. The late Alexander H. Adams was Secretary and Treasurer of the Detroit & St. Joseph Railroad Company at the time of its sale, to the State, and he was the last survivor of the company. THE BLACK HAWK WAR. In 1832 Detroit was a city of 2,500 inhabitants, mainly interested in the successful prosecution of the Black Hawk 90 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. war, which was then being waged under the supervision of Major-General Winfield Scott. Previous to the arrival of General Scott, Gov. Mason directed Major-General John R. Williams to proceed with the First Regiment of Militia to the seat of war. The regiment was commanded by Colonel Edward Brooks, a veteran officer under Gen. Harrison at the Battle of Thames River. A company of mounted dragoons, Capt. Charles Jackson, and the Detroit City Guards, an uniformed infantry company, Capt. Isaac S. Rowland, a graduate of West Point, voluntarily tendered their services and formed part of the detachment which reached Saline. Gov. Mason on receiving information that Gen. Scott with United States regulars from Norfolk were en route here, sent a message with orders to return, all except the dragoons, who were to proceed with Gen. Williams and staff to the seat of war, and they went to Chicago. The infantry returned to Detroit, after an absence of ten days, and were discharged, and some months after were paid by the United States. The ranks of the City Guards were so decimated by protracted disease and death, resulting from camping without tents in woods during continuous rains and want of proper food, that the company never organized afterwards. It is believed that our respected townsman, V. W. McGraw, and the writer are the only ones now living of the Guards. "Alas, what is there in human state, Or who can shun inevitable fate? The doom was written, the decree was past, Ere the foundations of the world were cast." THE ASIATIC CHOLERA IN DETROIT IN 1832, 1834, 1849, 1854, was first encountered by European physicians in India, and supposed by them to be an epidemic form of cholera morbus, although Dr. Bontius, a Dutch physician, at Batavia in 1629, and Dr. Paisly at Madras in 1774, in their SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 91 writings, #mention those symptoms indicative of Asiatic cholera, and Dr. Curtis, an English surgeon, in 1782, speaks of it as a disease entirely new to European practitioners; but no general attention was directed to its character or movemnents until 1817, when for the first time it broke out as an epidemic in the delta of the Ganges, 100 miles north of Calcutta, and spread over Hindostan. In 1820 it broke out in Bombay, arid on the east coast of Africa, and shortly afterwards appeared in China and the islands of the Pacific. Up to this time its course was erratic, not proceeding in any one uniform direction; but in 1821 it commenced its great westward march. Following the courses of rivers and traveled roads, it visited in succession Persia, Arabia and Asia Minor. In 1829 it made its appearance in Southern Russia and Moscow, and in Moscow in 1830. In 1831 it spread over the greater part of Central Europe, and in October of that year it broke out in Sunderland, England. In January, 1832, it was in Edinburgh, and in February in London. In Paris it was noticed in March, and rapidly spread over all France. On June 8th, 1832, it first appeared in this country at Quebec, and June 10th at Montreal. June 21st it broke out in the city of New York, and then spread in almost every direction over the States. On the 5th of July it struck Detroit, first appearing among Gen. Scott's troops en route to the seat of the Black Hawk war, on the steamer Henry Clay. It soon spread fearfully among the inhabitants, many of whom were panic stricken, and fled to the country, until out of a population of 2,500, not 1,500 remained. The merchant closed his store, the mechanic dropped his tools, and the professional man abandoned his study. Courts and churches were closed. Bulletins were issued, with all the information received, every morning, by the Board of Health, by order of the City Council. On a scorching hot Sunday morninig citizens were summoned by ringin0 an alarm with the bell in the tower of the Presbyte 92 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. rian church, to an impromptu meeting held in fropt of the church, at which committees were appointed to superintend fumigating the city by burning pitch and tar, and the covering of all damp places with lime. It was thought that the smoke only served to aggravate the disease, and it was soon discontinued. The panic was so great in the country that at several places all communication was suspended by force. Bridges were pulled down, fences established across roads, and guards stationed to prevent any person from the city passing. The Detroit Presbytery, through their moderator, issued a proclamation appointing a day of humiliation and prayer, and inviting Christians of other sects to join with them in observing it. The venerable Father Richard, VicarGeneral of the Roman Catholic church, through all the excitement and consternation for two months was daily seen, clothed in the robes of his high calling, with spectacles on his forehead and prayer book in hand, going from house to house among his parishioners, encouraging the well and administering spiritual consolation to the dying, until completely worn out with fatigue, and seized with the unmistakable symptoms of the disease, he was forced to yield, and survived only three days after. He died on the morning of the 12th of September, and was buried in the afternoon of the same day. Notwithstanding the universal dread of the disease, the concourse of citizens in attendance was greater than the entire population of the city, so great was the number that came in from the surrounding country. The second appearance of the cholera here was on the 5th of August, 1834. The greater number of its victims were among the intemperate and unclean. Its ravages also extended to the temperate and wealthy. Among the deaths were George B. Porter, Governor of Michigan, Col. Charles Lamed, a prominent member of the Detroit bar, and Francis P. Browning, a leading merchant. The old Presbyterian church, which had been removed to SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 93 the northwest corner of Michigan avenue and Bates street, was used as a hospital. On the 14th of August there were 26 deaths from the disease, which was the greatest number in any one day. From the 5th of August to the 1st of September there were 319 dea.ths, a heavy draft on a population less than 5,000. The pestilence soon after was entirely abated, and Wednesday, the 24th of September, was observed as one of thanksgiving and prayer for God's mercy in staying it. During the month of August business was almost entirely suspended. It broke out at New Orleans with great mortality on the arrival of a vessel from Havre Dec. 11, 1848, and marched rapidly up the Mississippi and its tributaries. At New York it did not appear until May, 1849. Early in July, 1849, it again broke out in Detroit. On the 9th of July the Board of Health, two members of which were Dr. Zina Pitcher and Dr. H. P. Cobb, reported two cases of cholera in the city, one of which was fatal. On the 16th there were three fatal cases, and on the 23d three more, and for the week ending August 6th but two death were announced. Up to the 18th of August the deaths from cholera averaged about one per day, after which time it again died away. Little or nothing was experienced of the dreaded disease again until the latter part of May, 1854. The population of the city at that time was about 40,000. As usual, the first cases occurred in low and filthy places, but it gradually spread, and for the month of June the number of deaths did not exceed two or three per day. During July the deaths from cholera averaged 12 per day. On several days the deaths ranged from 35 to 40. After the 1st of August the mortality was evidently on the decrease, the average deaths per day were from two to three until September 12th, when the last deaths occurred. 94 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. A kHALF CENTURY PAST-i833. Fifty years ago Detroit was the only incorporated city in Michigan, and the site of Chicago, the city of "Big Things," had just been platted into town lots. On the 1st of March, 1833, the Detroit Journal and Advertiser-progenitor of the Post and Tribune, made its appearance as a semi-weekly paper--Maj. Thomas Rowland, editor. It contained an advertisement of John H. and Robert A. Kinze, former residents of Detroit, offering "three or four hundred lots in the flourishing town of Chicago" for sale. In an editorial calling attention to it, the editor anticipates that Chicago, "from its healthy locality, from commercial enterprise, and the rich country in its vicinity, must become one of the most thrifty towns in the West," and advocates an appropriation by Congress to build a harbor there, "because the place, in the course of the season, is visited by many vessels and steamboats, which experience great inconvenience for the want of a good harbor," and said "a newspaper was about to be established there." The first number of the Chicago Democrat made its appearance as a weekly in December. A stage route was established this year "from Detroit to Chicago, by which travellers could go from one place to the other in five days," and it was in contemplation to extend the line to St. Louis. It was said that "with proper encouragement on the part of the Government, the mail might be carried from New York to St. Louis, by way of Buffalo, Detroit and Chicago, in eight days less time than it was then transported." About the middle of June this year, an extensive riot occurred, occasioned by the arrest of Thomas Blackburn and wife, Southern fugitive slaves, from Kentucky. The woman escaped from jail and the man, while he was being brought from the jail to be sent South by the Sheriff, was rescued by the colored people and conveyed across the river into Can SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 95 ada. John M. Willson, the Sheriff, was borne down by the crowd and beaten with clubs-having in vain endeavored to defend himself by discharging his pistol--his injuries it was thought for a time would prove fatal. Great excitement ensued, the town bell rang an alarm, the cry of "to arms," as of fire, was shouted through the streets, and men with guns, pistols and swords were to be seen coming in all directions. The City Council was convened and a stringent ordinance was passed, which prohibited all colored persons being on the streets after nightfall without a lantern and a lighted candle in it. The mechanics and workingmen of Detroit held a meeting that year and resolved that they would not work more than ten hours for a day's work. The time previous was twelve hours, and this was the first movement here to establish the ten-hour system. On the west end of the Campus Martius there was a triangular shaped lot with a frontage of 280 feet on Griswold street, now covered by the City Hall, which was donated by the Common Council, sitting as a Land Board, to trustees of the "Female Seminary," on which, in 1834, they erected a large brick building, which for many years was occupied as a seminary, under the supervision of Mrs. C. M. Kirkland, author of "New Home, Who'll Follow," "Forest Life," etc. Subsequently the building was occupied by the State as an armory. On the Fort street front there was a fire engine house, and on the Michigan Avenue front the depot of the Detroit & St. Joseph Railroad Company (now M. C. R. R. Co.) About twenty-five years ago the city purchased it back from the State for a sit& for the City Hall. The Rev. Mir. Lyster, for many years later Rector of Christ Church, Detroit, laid the corner-stone of St. Peter's Church at Tecumseh, October 10, 1833. This was an event novel and interesting in the wilderness. It was the most Western 96 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. church edifice on the route usually travelled by emigrants to the " far West." The men of that day still living in this city, are Daniel Goodwin, John Winder, J. L. King, F. Buhl, C. H. Buhl, C. H-urlbut, John Owen, I-I. Hallock, H. H. LeRoy, R. E. Roberts, George E. Hand, William N. Carpenter, P. E. Demill, Gideon Paul, Levi E. Dolson, Amos Chaffee, A. C. McGraw, V. W. McGraw, E. V. Cicotte, Alexander Lewis, William Adair, Alanson Sheley, T. H. Hinchman, J. C. Holmes, George M. Rich, J. V. Reuhle, F. Reuhle, Bela Hubbard, Robert Stead. The sessions of the Supreme Court were held at this time in the Territorial Capitol (now the high school). The crier of the court was Isaac Day, familiarly known as "General Day" and "Field Marshal Day." He was a large portly man. One afternoon during the session of court, a severe thunder-storm occurred. While the General sat in somniculous quietude, leaning on his ivory-headed staff of office, gently snoring an interlude to the raging tempest without, a tremendous peal of thunder jarred the building and startled all its inmates; the General awakening, sprang upon his feet, and giving a heavy rap on the floor with his staff, cried out in a tone little lower than the thunder, " Silence." The effect was irresistible, and for a time the court and bar were convulsed with laughter. On the demise of the General, in 1835, the following epitaphs were written by Major Charles Cleland, Jacob M. Howard and John L. Talbot, members of the bar: BY CHARLES CLELAND. STEP LIGHT! The light of Day expired, Silent is Day-who silence oft required; His staff is broken, that magic staff That raised the beaver and suppresed the laugh; And Day's no more; no ray of light SKETOHES OF DETROIT. 97 Will ever restore to court its DayDarkly they're left to feel their way, Since as 'tis told in Day's report, Day hath no more Day in court. " Day unto Day" no more shall utter speechSince Day's in darkness-far beyond the reach; None cry for Day-who oft hath criedTo please the court, when men were tried;. And now that Day's shut out, we say, Peace to his manes, PooR IsAAc DAY. BY JACOB M. HOWARD. His soul is fled from this his daily scene, Downward "to search the gloomy caves of spleen," He left few children in the legal way With mighty wail to mourn the loss of Day. He left no friend, no picture and no foes, No face of bronze and no carbuncled nose; Nor tooth, nor jaw, nor tongue left he behind, For heirs to quarrel for and none to find. Yes, he's defunct! no more the morning ray Shall gild the rubic nose of rising Day. No more from whisky, ashes, rugs and straw, Shall rising Day salute the halls of law; No more with silver-headed cane shall tread, Proud as Apollo from his orient bed, The cost-compelling hours of ten and two, Big with defaults against the hapless few, Whose dinner-loving souls and beef ward views Divert from law, from juries and the stews. BY JOHN L. TALBOT. 'Tis true the light of Day has fled And night and silence reign, for Day is dead. No more he cries,, but has the task assigned To the sad spouse on earth now left behind. But Day again will dawn in the courts much higher, And take his place in them once more as crier. No need there'll be amid that glorious band Of his once harsh reproof or noise suppressing wand. Nor will he then as of that court the crier, Break his old back in making up the fire, Nor growl on Sundays as he casts his looks In charge of records, papers, lamps and books. 98 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. In that abode his tasks will be far fewer, Indeed his station there's a sinecure, Instead of whisky, nectar there will flowInstead of ashes, saiusages and stew, And ragged rugs exchanged for sheets of snow, And brilliant stars and gaudy clouds shall be His daily couch and slumbering canopy.. From thence he'll rise and the angels open Heavea's court whenever Day shines forth unbroken; Here from his wife, from culprits, lawyers, free, He'll eat and drink to all eternity. On the 27th of April, 1833, the steamer Michigan was launched from the ship yard in this city. The papers called her " a whale among the small fish on the lakes." Oliver Newberry was owner and Chelsey Blake commander. The name of Oliver Newberry is closely associated with the progress of vessel and steam navigation on the lakes. From the commencement of his career in this city, in 1820, to the time of his death, July 30, 1860, he was more or less largely interested as owner of schooners, brigs, ships and steamers, always of the first class in their day, and at one time ranked as the proprietor of the largest fleet on the great chain of lakes. He was entitled to and received the rank of ccADMIRAL OF THE LAKES. For his efforts in the promotion of the city's name, for spirit and enterprise among the proudest cities of the land, his memory will always be cherished with affection and pride. His favorite captain, Chelsey Blake, that veteran sailor so long and favorably known on the waters as "COMMODORE OF THE LAKES, whom for so many years and so intirnately-through battle, breeze and storm, had our citizens known Blake; from the time he volunteered to sustain his country's flag, under Gen. Scott at Lundy's Lane, until through every vicissitude of a sailor's life, from the time he assumed command of the good SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 99 schooner, General Jackson, in 1816, he won for himself the distinguishing title which he bore at his death. That his name must forever be associated,with the lakes, which became his favorite element. Of almost giant size, and commanding presence, no son of Neptune ever united in his composition a rarer combination of the qualities which make a true seaman, a safe commander, a genuine hero. Rough as the billows whose impotent assaults on his vessel he ever laughed to scorn, with voice as hoarse as the tempest which he delighted to rule, this gallant son of the sea had withal a woman's tenderness of heart to answer the appeals of distress. Sincere was the grief of many he had befriended, and universal the regret among all who had ever sailed with him or knew him well, when he fell a victim to cholera at Milwaukee, in the year 1849. Commodore Henry B. Brevoort, who bore a gallant part in Perry's conflict, in testimony and grateful recognition of which his country voted him a gold medal, succeeded Blake as commander of the schooner General Jackson. The early prejudice in regard to the land near Detroit still existed, and emigrant settlers, of whom it was estimated one hundred and seventy-five arrived daily, passed them by and went far into the interior to make their selections for homesteads. THE DEARBORN ARSENAL. The United States arsenal at Detroit was abandoned on completion of the arsenal at Dearborn, 10 miles from Detroit on the Chicago road, in 1833, which was the largest and finest structure in Michigan at that time. A small village sprang up near it as by magic. Speculation in city lots was rife. It was thought a city of importance would soon be built there..Mr. Elliott Gray, an enterprising merchant in Detroit, had a steamboat named "Gen. Jackson" built at Mt. Clemens, to ply between Detroit and Dearborn, via 100 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. River Rouge, which after a few trips was withdrawn for want of sufficient patronage. The village had got its growth, and came to a stand-still on the completion of the public work. It was so near and yet so far from Detroit. Until just before the late rebellion a large quantity of munitions of war were constantly kept stored in the arsenal, when by order of the Secretary of War, they were on short notice sold at auction and shipped to the south, since when it has been practically abandoned. The policy and importance of maintaining such a depository are clearly stated in the following extract from an address delivered by Major (afterwards Major General) Henry Whiting, A. Q. M., at the laying of the corner stone: " The establishment of this arsenal may justly be regarded by Michigan as one of the best safe-guards of her tranquility. Our army furnishes the out-posts but the main body is at the plow, ready, like Cincinnatus, to be called to the field as emergencies arise. As we provide for that enemy which prostrates our cities in ashes, by gathering the waters into large reservoirs, where they are preserved from evaporation and loss, in readiness to meet and subdue the destroyer; so the policy of defences is to concentrate its means within large depots, where they are kept in constant order, and whence they may be always drawn in the hour of danger. Let us therefore with one accord pronounce this arsenal to be established to provide for the defence of Michigan and the common good of the country." There being a speculative scheme to dispose of the arsenal and extensive grounds, the state authorities should consider the matter and inquire into the reason for discontinuing a depository of military stores in this state, which has been maintained here for nearly a century past, and if to be abandoned now by the general government, to consider the propriety of securing it to the state, and maintaining it to provide for emergencies, as a part of the military system of the state. It is located near the frontier, and only about six miles from Fort Wayne, with ample grounds for the annual encampment of the state troops, where it could be permanently established. " In peace prepare for war." SKETCHES OF DETROIT, 101 "War, my lord, Is of eternal use to human kind; For ever and anon when you have pass'd A few dull years in peace and propagation, The world is overstocked with fools and wants, A pestilence at least, if not a hero." THE FIRST CITY HALL. The old brick City Hall, on Michigan Grand Avenue fronting the Campus Martins, on the site now occupied by the Public Market, was built in 1834, when the first market building, built in 1816, on. Woodward avenue south of Jefferson ave, was taken down. A SERIOUS RIOT-ORGANIZATION OF THE BRADY GUARDS. In 1835 a large force was employed grading down the front of the Cass farm. One day, having been given an unlimited supply of whiskey, the whole force numbering one or two hundred, were engaged fighting at the same time. They were too maudlin drunk to do much injury to each other, although blood flowed freely. Excitement in the city ran high. The sheriff's posse were powerless to quell the fight or make arrests, and as thei-e was no military organization to call upon, there was nothing to do but to let them fight it out, until night put an end to it. During the afternoon a number were led from the ground by their women, who fearlessly marched among them, and to the credit of the men, be it said, drunk as they were, no one laid hands on them or did them harm. This disgraceful scene showed the importance of a military organization, and soon after the Brady Guards were organized, and a number of the old City Guards joined the new organization. FIRES-FIRE DEPARTMENT. Few cities of its size have suffered by fire to the same extent as Detroit. It was founded in 1701, and three years 102 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. later, in 1704, Indians attempted its destruction by fire, and partly succeeded, by sending fire-balls from their bows into the thatched roofs of the houses within the stockade. The church, Cadillac's and Tonti's houses were burned. During the siege of Pontiac in 1763, they again attempted its destruction by the same agency, by sending fire-balls over the stockade and by sending fire-rafts from a point above the town, with the current down the river, hoping to fire the wooden wharf and the vessels alongside, but under cover of the guns of Fort Pontchartrain, the rafts were grappled with from small boats and towed out into the stream and they passed harmlessly by the.town. In 1805 the city was laid in ruins, only one small building near the public wharf escaped the conflagration. In 1837 a fire started in a ball-alley on the east side of Woodward avenue, below Atwater street, which swept eastward along the wharfs, and burning over both sides of Atwater street to the center of the block east of Bates street, consuming a number of warehouses, manufactories, stores and shops. In 1842 a fire started in a large barn, in rear of the "New York and Ohio Iouse," on the west side of Woodward avenue, and burned over the entire block between Jefferson avenue and Woodbridge street, one of the best business squares in the city. In 1848 a fire broke out in a large four story warehouse on the dock, between Bates and Randolph streets, just where the fire of 1837 was arrested, which swept eastward and northward through to Jefferson avenue, consuming 250 buildings, including several large warehouses and manufactories, the Berthelet Market, and four hotels-Wales' Hotel (the Gov. Hull mansion, built in 1807, the first brick house in Michigan), the "Steam Boat Hotel," Howard's Tavern and Ledbeter's Tavern. Several other calamitous fires might be enumerated. There are scarce a half dozen buildings of fifty years ago remaining, the greater number having been swept away byefire. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 103 Down to 1815 there were no fire engines here, and but one fire company, a " bag, bucket and battering-ram company." Leather buckets were required to be kept in readiness in every house, and all premises were required to be provided with ladders, and a certain quantity of water in casks, arranged with handles and a pole, so that two men could sling them on their shoulders and carry them to a fire. A fire engine company was organized in 1815, to man an engine procured from Commodore Perry's flag-ship, after the battle of Lake Erie, Sept. 10, 1813, which was the only engine here until 1825, when the city purchased a large and more effective machine for the company. Other machines were purchased from time to time until 1839, there were four engine companies, one hose company, one hook, ladder and axe coinpany, and a. company of Fire Wardens. The whole force numbered about 200 men. They were volunteer firemen, organized on the system inaugurated by Benjamin Franklin in Philadelphia, in 1777. They rendered gratuitous services and defrayed all contingent expenses, the city furnishing the machines and houses for them. The members were mostly young men, and one of the companies was known as the "1Boys Company." All were active and efficient, and a spirit of rivalry animated them in being first to a fire and getting on the first stream of water. To show the extent of this, an incident is here recalled. There had not been a fire for several weeks and the boys were spoiling for a fire. When one night, one who we will call John, who was quietly sleeping in his bed, was awakened by a imember we will call Kin, who, shaking him and saying, " John, John, wake up, get up quick and come to the engine-house, there is going to be a fire." John was at the engine-house in double-quick time, where he found a number ahead of him with the drag-rope unreeled and stretched out into the street, awaiting the alarm, which presently came from the Town bell, when with a shout, " away with her," they were 104 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. soon at the fire and had the first water on it. The fire was in an isolated, old unoccupied blacksmith shop, of no great value and a nuisance to the neighborhood, where the Unitarian Church now stands. The department was under command of a chief engineer, with no organized association, and except when on duty at fires, each company in matters of discipline and social enjoyment or mutual good, acted for itself, when it was deemed best for the interests and greater effectiveness and good of the whole to organize an association, which was effected at a meeting held January 11, 1840, which was chartered by the State Legislature February 14, 1840. The officers named in the act were: Robert E. Roberts, president; Frederick Bluhl, vice-president; Edmund R. Kearsley, secretary; Darius Larson, treasurer, and Elijah Goodell, collector, they having been elected at a prior meeting of the firemen. At the time of the organization of the department, the city constructed a building on the northwest corner of Lamed and Bates streets, which was called the Firemen's Hall. The first story was occupied by an engine, hook and ladder and hose companies, and the second story by the Common Council, Mayor's Court, city officers, and by the Fire Department for holding meetings. In 1849 the association had a fund on hand of $6,000, accumulated from proceeds of balls, excursions, annual dues of members, and by the judicious and careful management of the funds by its officers, all of whom rendered gratuitous service. The number of members had largely increased, and a more commodious place of meeting was required and decided upon, when the lot on the southwest corner of Jefferson avenue and Randolph street was purchased with the fund on hand. James A. Van Dyke, president of the association, effected a loan of $8,000, and the building, to cost $17,000, was put under contract, relying upon the liberality of their fellow-citizens to aid in completing it. The promptness with SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 105 which they came to their aid when it was found they had gone to the extent of their means, showed that no false estimate was placed on their liberality. The ladies, too, who had often cheered the men at the brakes, when they had an all night's work at a fire, by sending them hot coffee, etc., came to their rescue, got up a Fair to increase their fund, from which nearly $1,000 was realized. The hall was completed in the fall of 1851, and it was thought that a sufficient permanent income from rents of stores, offices and hall for the needs of the association was assured for all time to come, not dreaming that the hand engine and human muscle were destined to be superseded by steam in extinguishing fires. Providentially and fortunately-for many young men's health were impaired by the severe labor and exposuresAmerTean genius produced a. more efficient and less injurious means-both physically and morally-and the name of Latta, the Cincinnati inventor, deserves to be immortalized. In 1861 the steam fire engine, drawn by horses, and manned by a paid force, superseded the volunteer system, inaugurated by Benjamin Franklin in Philadelphia in 1777, when the fifteen engine and hook and ladder companies, with the volunteer force of 600 men in Detroit, were thrown out of active service. In conflicts with the elements they were organized to combat, the volunteer firemen, as a body, ever did their duty promptly, courageously and nobly; and though no martial strain, waving plume, or hope of glory, cheered them on, deeds of valor Were performed by many which should *have won them Wreaths of fame, bright as ever bloomed for the warrior's brow. Since the retirement of its members from active service, the membership has been reduced, by deaths and voluntary withdrawals, to about 130, and the estimated value of its assets is $100,000. What to do with this accumulated property is the question that perplexes the members. All agree that the association has served its time, that its usefulness has 106 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. passed, and that its existence should be terminated. As one of the projectors of the organization, any plan for its termination a majority of its members may agree upon, will be satisfactory to him. So that is done. On application to the Legislature for the passage of an enabling act authorizing its termination in any manner a majority of its members deemed just and equitable, the Judiciary Committee of the Senate decided that the Legislature had no power to authorize the distribution of its fund otherwise than that prescribed by its charter, to wit, for the relief of disabled firemen and their families, and reported adversely, and the bill was not passed. But at the next and last session of the Legislature an amendment to the charter was passed providing for the appointment of substitutes on the demise of members, thus in effect perpetuating the organization, and ultimately its effects will pass into the hands of those who never were firemen, and who never in any manner contributed to the fund. TI-HE BOY GOVERNOR OF MICHIGAN. Among the one thousand oil paintings in the Art Loan Exhibition of 1883, there is one of particular interest to those who witnessed the scene portrayed, or familiar with the manner of conducting elections in the early days of the State. It was painted in 1837 by Thomas Burnham, an amateur artist, and is a faithful representation of the election scene in the Campus Martius, in front of the old City Hall, where the whole vote of the city was polled. The candidates for Governor were Gov. Mason, Democrat, and Charles C. Trowbridge, Whig. Gov. Mason is the central figure, represented as placing in the hand of John Weiss, the butcher, a dollar, given him, as was charged, for his vote. Frank Sawyer, editor of the Advertiser (Whig), and Kinsburry, editor of the Detroit Post (Democrat), with a copy of their respective papers in their hands, engaged in earnest SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 107 dispute. Sawyer is backed by George C. Bates, and Kinsburry by Gardner. Col. D. C. McKinstry, Chairman of the State Democratic Central Committee, resting on his cane, is an interested listener. On the right is James Stilson, auctioneer, on a horse, leading a car filled with hard-fisted Democrats, drawn by three yoke of oxen. On the left coming up is the ship Constitution, on wheels, drawn by four horses, commanded by Capt. Robert Wagstaff, and manned by a picked crew of jack tars. This was before the introduction here of lager, in which there is no fight, and when the respective parties-who had both imbibed freely of "fire water"-met, a fierce pitched battle was waged, in which about 200 were engaged, which resulted in many bruised heads, black eyes and bloody noses and no fatalities. This was before the days of cheap revolvers. In a like scrimmage in these days the report of a dozen or more revolvers would be heard attended with fatal results. Stevens Thomson Mason, of Kentucky (he was a native or Virginia), was appointed Secretary of the Territory of Michigan, and sworn in on the 25th of July, 1831. The office of Governor being vacant, he was Acting Governor of Michigan-he was but twenty years of age, and the youngest person who ever held so exalted a position in the United States. His elders in Detroit were greatly exercised about being under the rule of a mere youth. A public meeting was held, at which a committee composed of five of the most influential citizens were appointed to procure his resignation or removal. Mason, on meeting the committee when they called on him and requested him to resign, disarmed and captured them by the frank and courteous manner in which he received them, and saying in reply to their objection on account of his youth: "A young man would be more ready to accept the guidance of his elders than one of riper years." Among his devoted adherents afterwards were a majority of the committee, and for years later, on the admission of 108 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Michigan into the Union, he was elected the first Governor of the State, and again two years later, he was reelected. His administration was popular, and he was personally respected by the entire community. He died ypung, suddenly, in the city of New York, where he had removed after the expiration of his second term, and he is kindly remembered by all knew him. THE PRESIDENTIAL CAMPAIGN OF '40. The excitement of the canvass in the Presidential election of 1840, exceeded that of any other before or since. The people were fairly wild. Hickory poles, the emblem of the Democrats, and liberty poles that of the Whigs, were raised at every cross-road. Log cabins were built in most cities and villages. In Detroit, an immense log cabin was built on Jefferson Avenue, opposite the Biddle House, the logs for which were cut in the -woods about three miles out on the Grand River road, and brought in by teams in a single day, and the cabin put up by volunteers, among whom were mechanics, merchants, lawyers, doctors and bankers. Conspicuous among them was the late A. H. Sibley, cashier of the Bank of Michigan, in high top boots, trudging through the deep mud, driving an ox team with the essential "ox gad" of unusual length. In front of the cabin there was a tall liberty pole, from the top of which a flag floated during the day, as a signal when meetings were to be held, and at night a red light was run up. Inside, the walls were hung with flags, banners and mottoes, and over the Glee Club stand there was "that same old coon sitting on a rail." The beams and rafters were strung with seed corn in the ear, hanging from their braided husks, dried pumpkins and dried apples. It was dedicated on the 21st of April. In the procession there was a well built log cabin, 9 by 12 feet, on wheels, drawn by six yoke of oxen, which was brought from Dearborn-10 miles-that day. On the top of the cabin sat a SKETOHES OF DETROIT. 109 live coon. Inside there was a plentiful supply of "hard cider," corn cake and dough-nuts, and the "latch string" was out in the door. Following the cabin there was a huge ball 9 feet in diameter, rolled along by a glee club, singing: " 'Tis the ball a rolling on, For Tippecanoe and Tyler too, And with them we'll beat little Van. Van, Van's a used up man. And with them we'll beat little Van." This ball was, during the summer, rolled to interior towns by the glee club, singing en route, until finally reaching Flint-60 miles-when the roads became so muddy they were unable to proceed further, and it was abandoned. Tables in the cabin, extending all around the walls, were well filled with cooked meats, pork and beans, bread and cheese, pumpkin pies, dough-nuts, corn cake, one huge Johnny cake 10 feet long, hominy, mush and milk, apple sauce, and an abundance of "hard cider," on which the immense throng feasted, while music and singing by the Glee Club proceeded. Hon. David E. Harbaugh was the orator of the day. Addresses were made by George C. Bates and others. Col. Edward Brooks, an officer under Harrison at the battle of the River Thames, was master of ceremonies and recited the story of "Dr. Diable Encore," an epic poem written for the occasion. The Harrison club in Detroit chartered three steamboats to convey those who wished to go to the Fort Meigs celebration, at which Gen. Harrison would be present, on the 11th of June, and invited clubs from the interior. The numbers that,came to the city the night before was so great the hotels could not lodge one half of them, and their enthusiastic Whig friends were forced to hang out the "latch string" and provide them lodgings at their houses. At Deacon David French's, where the writer 110 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. boarded at the time, every bed was filled, and in order to accommodate the number sent him from the cabin, feather beds were laid in the center of the parlor and dining room floors, on which to rest their heads and shoulders, while lying stretched out around on the carpet. On looking in upon them in the night, they resembled a card board of scissors as often displayed in shop windows. Soon after sunrise in the morning, clubs with music and banners, came in from the surrounding country, to take the boats which were to start at an early hour. At breakfast, Mr. Starkweather from Plymouth, who had been down town, told of the numbers he had seen comiing into the city by every road-said to the writer, "Now tell me what does all this mean? Is there real cause for this uprising of the people? or are we all fools and beside ourselves?" I gave it up. It was evident that the stories told them from the stump of the gold spoons and other extravagances, indulged in at the White House, was too much for the hard-fisted yeoman of the West, who were living in log cabins and clearing a home for their families on the forties and eighties they had purchased at ten shillings per acre. It mattered not to them to be told that President Van Buren maintained the White House from his own private fortune, and that he had not drawn a dollar of his salary of $25,000 a year, gold spoons were not to be tolerated at a republican court. THE SECOND SLAVE RIOT. A slave riot occurred on the 24th of October, 1839, occasioned by a decision of the Hon. Ross Wilkins, Judge of the United States District Court, that a negro slave who w'as claimed as a fugitive from servitude in the State of Missouri, should be delivered to his master. In consequence a large quantity of blacks and whites (Abolitionists), collected in front of the city hall and attempted to resist the execution of the law, when the U. S. Marshal called upon the SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 11l Brady guards for assistance, and while conducting the slave from the court-house to the jail, the mob made an attack on the guards, which was repelled by them, after capturing one white and three blacks, who, with the slave, were safely lodged in prison. The guards remained on duty until six o'clock the next morning. The slave was subsequently released and given his freedom which was purchased from his owner by citizens of Detroit who contributed the value placed upon him by his owner. TELEGRAPHY. Rev. Jedediah Morse, the first American geographer and maker and publisher of the first map of the United States, and his son, Samuel Finley Breese Morse, an artist of fame, better known, perhaps, as the inventor of the electric telegraph, visited Detroit in 1820, crossing Lake Erie in the Walk-in-the-water, the first steamboat on the lakes. When on the voyage, the elder Morse said to the late John Roberts of this city, who was a fellow passenger, " I have made and published a map of Michigan, and now, for the first time, am going to see the country." The son, Prof. Morse, on his return east took up his residence in the city of New York, where he found his works and talents were more justly appreciated. Under a commission from the city government, he painted a full-length portrait of LaFayette when on a visit to the United States, in 1825. Here he founded the National Academy of Design, and it is worthy of note that the first course of lectures on the subject of art read in America were delivered by him before the New York Athenoeum. In the rooms of the Academy or Sketching Club, of which he was president, he perfected his inventon of electric telegraph, in 1835. In 1837, with regret, he abandoned art and devoted himself to the advancment of his invention, and filed his caveat at the Patent Office in Washington. In 1844 the first electric tel 112 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. egraph was oompleted in the United States, between Washington and Baltimore, and the first intelligence of a public character which passed over the wires was the announcement of the nomination of James K. Polk as the Democratic candidate for the Presidency, by the Baltimore convention. The successful experiment in the room of the "Sketching Club" is described in the following lines from a poem by W. H. Coyle, one time a resident of Detroit: " Silence and night Had hushed the babel city to deep sleep, Around the walls of the magician's room A circuit ran, three miles of air-hung wires; And on a table stood the sealed jar, Where prison'd coiled the fiery messenger. Trembling, he wrote "Eureka," when a flash, Electric, like a ray swift traveling From the sun, thrilled through each palpitating Iron vein, and lo! upon a spotless Scroll, unroll'd, a hand invisible wrote The wing'd word "Eureka!" The artist's dream Was realized; and now blooms upon his brow The laurel of his country's gratitude." In 1848, the first telegraph dispatch was received in Detroit, from New York, and in 1858 there was in Detroit an Atlantic Cable Telegraph Jubilee in honor of the reception of a message of the Queen of England, and the reply of the President of the United States, transmitted over the Atlantic Cable, when a hundred guns were fired, all the public buildings and many private houses were illuminaed, the bells of all the churches were rung for an hour, from 8 to 9 o'clock P. M. A torch-light procession headed by the Mayor, Common Council and other City Officers, ending the march in the Campus Martius, and forming a hollow square around a stand from which addresses were 'Made to the assemblage. During the progress and along the line of the procession there was a constant display of fireworks. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 113 The following were the first messages over the Atlantic Cable: LONDON, Aug. 16th, 1858. To the Hon. the President of the UTaited States: Her Majesty desires to congratulate the President upon the successful completion of the great international work, in which the Queen has taken the deepest interest. The Queen is convinced that the President will join her in fervently hoping that the electric cable which now connects Great Britain with the United States will prove an additional link between the two nations whose friendship is founded upon their common interests and reciprocal esteem. The Queen has much pleasure in thus communicating with the President, renewing to him her wishes for the prosperity of the United States. WASHINGTON, Aug. 16th, 1858. To BHer Majesty, Victoria, Queen of Great Britain: The President cordially reciprocates the congratulations of Her Majesty, the Queen, on the success of the great international enterprise accomplished by the science, skill and indomitable energy of the two countries. It is a triumph more glorious because far more useful to mankind than was ever won on the field of battle. May the Atlantic Telegraph, under the blessing of Heaven, prove to be a bond of future peace and friendship between the kindred nations, and an instrument destined by Divine Providence to diffuse religion, civilization, liberty and law throughout the world. In this view will not all christendom spontaneously unite in the declaration that it shall be neutral, and that its communications shall be held sacred in transmission to their places of destination, even in the midst of hostilities? JAMES BUCHANAN. The directors of the Atlantic Telegraph Company sent the following from Cyrus Station, N. F., Aug. 16: Europe and America are united by telegraph. " Glory to God in the highest, on earth peace and good will toward men." A RIOT. A serious outbreak against the order and peace of the city occurred on the 6th of March, 1863, occasioned by an unlawful assemblage of persons to dispute the supremacy of the law, and wrest from judicial punishment Falkner, a 114 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. negro man who was convicted in the Recorder's Court, and immediately sentenced by His Honor Judge Witherell to States Prison for life for committing a rape upon a white girl of about ten years of age. On taking him back to the jail, about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, under an escort of 75 men of the Provost Guard, an immense mass of people followed and assaulted the guards with bricks, stones and other missiles. When near the jail, being furiously assaulted by the crowd, the soldiers fired on them, killing Charles Langier, a looker-on, and wounding several others. The Provost Guard then retired to the barracks, when the prejudice toward them was transferred to the negroes living in the vicinity of the jail. A cry was raised to drive every negro out of the city, and an inhuman and indiscriminate attack was made upon their persons and property, and speedily the flames burst forth from two tenements occupied by them. When Francis B. Phelps, Acting Mayor, requested Colonel Smith to send another force of 100 men from the barracks to disperse the mob, Colonel Smith promptly gave the order, but being advised that an attempt was to be made to fire the barracks by the conscripts in quarters there (which attempt was unsuccessfully made), the order was countermanded by Col. Smith, and he summoned a company of regulars from Fort Wayne, commanded by Capt. Churchill, who promptly reported at the Mayor's office, and received from the Mayor his authority in writing to fire on the rioters. The Detroit Light Guard and the Lyon Guard were also called out and reported at the same time, when both detachments proceeded to the burning district to disperse the mob. The flames of the burning buildings but increased the flames of passion, until the city police and the military completely lost control. When Adjutant General Robertson, at the request of the Mayor, telegraphed an order, directing Col. D. M. Fox, of the Twenty-seventh Regiment Michigan Infantry, at Ypsilanti, to repair forthwith to Detroit with five companies of SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 115 infantry, to which he responded, and in one hour and ten minutes reported with his command at the Mayor's office, which lie was enabled to do by the prompt action of R. N. Rice, Superintendent of the Michigan Central Railroad, who passed them over the road without expense to the city. The military being thus reinforced were enabled to surround the burning district, which bad extended from Croglian street down Brush and Beaubien streets to near Congress street, and protect the firemen while at work arresting the spread of the fire. The mob dispersed, and comparative quiet prevailed about midnight, but for about nine hours the most intense excitement prevailed throughout the city, for there was no telling where the destruction would end. The military remained on duty, patroling the streets and guarding the barracks, Michigan Central depot and grain warehouses, until the following morning. And by request of the Mayor the military were held in reserve. Col. Fox's command occupied the City Hall, the Light Guards, Scott Guards and Lyon Guards remained in their respective armories for several days, and on Sunday the Mayor ordered stationed at the difierent colored churches a sufficient police force to protect their congregations in the enjoyment of their religious privileges. Col. Fox's command remained here three days, when it returned to Ypsilanti. NEW CITY HALL. The new City Hall, the cornier-stone of which was laid on the 6th day of August, 1868, was completed and dedicated on the 4th of July, 1871. The hall stands on the west side of Campus Martius. The length of the building is 204 feet, width 90 feet, height three stories from wall to wall, besides basement and Mansard roof. There are two grand entrances on the Woodward avenue and Griswold street front. In front of each are double story porches, resting 116 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. upon seven massive stone columns, and seven stone steps extend across their front. In front of the Fort street and Michigan avenue entrances the porches also rest upon like massive stone columns. Above the corner of the first section of the tower are four statues, each fourteen feet high, representing Justice, Art, Commerce and Industry. The bell on the tower weighs 7,600 pounds, and cost $2,750. The clock cost $2,850. The foundation of the building cost $64,027.09, and the building proper cost $425,914.04, making the entire cost of the building $489,941.13. Taking everything into consideration, and the cost, including ornamentation of the grounds, furniture and fixtures, was $551,346. The material used in its construction is light creamcolor sandstone. A BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF THE CITY OF DETROIT FROM THE CITY HALL TOWER. Here in the City Hall Tower, at an elevation of 200 feet above the water level of the strait, the view of the city below and of the scenery around about for miles distant, is most enchanting. Although the surrounding country is level, with no mountains or hills to add to the picturesqueness of the scene, in their stead there are the broad expanse of water in lakes and river, dotted with numerous islands and islets, and in every direction are seen the white-spreading sails, floating steam palaces, steam barges, tugs with long tows of vessels; the jaunty, swift-plying private steam yachts, sailing yachts, the boat clubs' gigs and sculls, and the ancient canoe; and, on the land, forests and fields, with a dozen surrounding villages and manufacturing groups of buildings, with their tall chimneys sending out volumes of dense, black smoke, seen by day; arid at night the lurid flame from numbers of iron and copper-smelting works, and radiating from the city east, west, north and south; on iron roads the steam " iron horse rushes, belching forth fire and CITY HALL. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 119 smoke," and over wires, stretched from tops of rows of tall poles, "intelligence is carried to and fro through the land as by lightning," Besides the fulfilment of the ancient prophecy in this age, the human voice is transmitted to and heard in distant parts of the land, and responses are returned and heard as quick as thought. Across the strait to the south, but a little more than a half mile away, is Her Majesty's dominion, with the quaint villages of Amherstburgh and Sandwich, and the modern towns of Windsor and Walkerville, to which, to and fro magnificent steam ferries constantly ply, and elegant excursion steamers leave the city hourly for the city's island park, Belle Island, Sandwich and the White Sulphur Spring and Sanitarium at Wyandotte, ten. miles below the city; so that with the passing to the upper lakes of large steamers, propellers and sail vessels, the two steamers daily, morning and afternoon, to Star Island and the Club house there, where sportsmen in numbers disport, fish and go ducking, and thence on to the " Oakland" and St. Clair Mineral Spring and Port Huron; the steamer leaving daily for Mount Clemens Mineral Spring on the Clinton River, discharging into Lake St. Clair twenty miles away; the daily steamer to.Chatham on the River Thames in Canada, and other steamers leaving daily for the copper and iron mines of Lake Superior, and Amherstburgh, Toledo, Sandusky, Put-in-bay, Cleveland, Buffalo and the lower lakes, there is constantly some moving charming attraction in view on the strait. As to the strait we must agree with Father Hennepin, who passed through when it was in a state of nature 200 years ago. He wrote "that one would think that nature alone could not have made without the help of art so charming a prospect," and Cadillac, the founder of Detroit, in a report to the French Government one hundred and eighty years ago, said: "It is the 120 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Door by which one can go in and out to trade with all our allies." The strait has now come to be the door by which one can go in and out, by rail, to any point in the United States or Canada. As was said, "all roads lead to Rome" so all short trunk lines of railway, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, lead to this strait, and sooner or later an uninterrupted pathway either over or under it will be provided. iaving lived in this city nearly three score years, and accustomed to see the city and surroundings and to watch its progress and growth from a mere fur trading and military post, to a large commercial and manufacturing metropolis, the population increasing from one thonsand five hundred to one hundred and fifty thousand, I did not realize what it is until now, for the first time, viewing it and its surroundings from this altitude. The sight compensates for all the fatigue of ascending the many flights of winding iron stairs. The great avenues, radiating from this centre, east, west and north, leading into the country, can be traced for many miles until narrowing and disappearing like shadows. The forest of trees on Belle Isle Park and the lake beyond seem almost beneath your feet. The street cars passing to and fro seem no larger than carriages, carriages seem like dog-carts; men and women like Tom Thumbs and Minnie Warrens. The city outside the business centre, from this point, has the appearance of a dense forest with many heaven-pointing spires towering above the trees, justifying what has been said that Detroit is a park city, for were. the buildings removed it would be an extensive park, with more than two hundred miles of driveways, forming a perfect network. There are sidewalks of smooth stone; wide avenues skirted with from two to six rows of stately elms, maples, lindens and buckeyes; flowers, climbing vines and exotics in profusion, and numerous works of art, statues and fountains spout SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 121 ing sprays of water, cooling, moistening and purifying the air. That dense cluster of trees about 1,000 feet distant to the northwest are in the two Grand Circus Parks, with a large fountain in the centre of each, where on any day or evening during the heated term, may be seen the numerous settees filled with citizens, the gravel walks with promenaders and numbers of maidens with perambulators giving infants the benefit of breathing in the open air, sheltered from the hot rays of the sun, pure and wholesome atmosphere. Bands discourse cheering music occasionally from the grand stand there provided, and the electric lights give brilliancy to the scene. Radiating from these parks are six avenues, one of 120 feet and three 200 feet in width, each skirted with rows of stately trees, and Woodward avenue, 120 feet, passes between, dividing the parks. Besides these parks there 0 are numerous other small ones located in diferent parts of the city. Directly beneath us is the SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS' % MONUMENT. Campus Martius, 400x600 feet, in which the City Hall, and Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument are located. Fronting which are the Russell and Kirkwood Hotels, Detroit Opera House, Park Theatre, American Express Office and a number of stores, shops and offices. Radiating from the Campus are one avenue 200 feet wide, in which the public markets are located, and two 120 feet wide, and one 80 feet wide, and three streets each 100 feet wide; while in front, looking south, 2,000 feet distant, run 122 SKETCI-ES OF DETROIT. the blue waters of the strait floating a constant moving panorama of steam and sail craft. Yonder extensive forest of more than. 100 acres, two miles to the east, is the beautiful and sequestered ELMWOOD CEMETERY. There beneath the shade of the old towering elms, whose name it bears, will sleep as they pass away, generations who have peopled Detroit. " Here on this spot, Where many generations sleep forgot, Up from marble tomb and grassy mound, There cometh on the ear a peaceful sound. Which bids us be contented with our lot And suffer calmly." If it indicates a gentle spirit, and hearts open to the influences of elevated humanity to cherish and beautify the graves of lost loves, to honor the useful and good, and to freshen the remembrances of the sweet and lovely in life, then has Detroit furnished such evidence in her chaste, secluded, picturesque and beautiful Elmwood. John Trumbull, the poet of the American Revolution, author of McFingal, " here 'neath the sod of this new world the patriot poet lies," (which quotation we find engraved on his tomb by Miss Sigorney). Adjoining Elmwood on the east is MT. ELLIOT CEMETERY, containing fifty acres, which were purchased Aug. 31, 1841, and twelve days later the mortal remains of Robert T. Elliott, its projector, and one of its founders, were the first to find a resting place therein. Here the remains of Col. Hamtramck, the first United States Military Commandant of Detroit'and its dependencies, repose. His tomb has the following inscription: "Sacred to the memory of John' Francis Hamtramck, SKETCHES OF DETROIT.. 123 Esq., Colonel of the First U. S. Regiment of Infantry, and commandant of Detroit and its dependencies. He departed this life on the 11th of April, 1803, aged 45 years, 7 months and 28 days. True patriotism and zealous attachment to national liberty, joined to a laudable ambition, led him into military service at an early period of life. -He was a soldier before he was a man. " He was an active participator in all the dangers, difficulties and honors of the Revolutionary war, and his heroism and uniform good conduct procured him the attention anc personal thanks of the immortal Washington. The United States in him have lost a valuable officer and a good citizen, and society a useful and pleasant member. To his family his loss is incalculable, and his friends will never forget the memory of Hamtramck. This humble monument is placed over his remains by the officers who had the hlonor to serve under his command; a small tribute to his merit and his worth." Col. Hamtramck was appointed commandant at Detroit by John Adams, second President of the United States, in 1799. The quaint, old house, with the chimneys outside on either end, on the margin of the Detroit river, Van Dyke farm, Hamtramck, was the residence of Hamtramck. About five miles west, on the banks of the River Rouge, is WOODMERE CEMETERY, which embraces 200 acres of land, which has a varied and gently undulating surface, with a great variety of native forest trees and unfailing streams of water within its bounds, The soil is of a sandy, porous nature, and well adapted to purposes of sepulture. "Here will indeed be Rest for the dead. Far from the turmoil and strife of trade, Let the broken house of the soul be laid, 124 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Where the violets blossom in the shade. And voices of nature do so softly fall Over the silent sleepers allWhere rural graves are made." BUSINESS CENTRES. Within a circle of half a mile from the Hall all is business and bustle. The space, compactly built over with massive buildings, four, five and six stories high, occupied by merchants, bankers and professionals, and the thoroughfares leading to the country-Michigan, Grand River, Woodward and Gratriot avenues-are all compactly built up from two to five miles distant from the Hall. with brick stores and manufactories-on all of which horse cars run to the city limits-and those to the east and west from two to three miles beyond. THE CITY PLAT-OLD AND NEW. The plat of the city, as originally made by the Governor and Judges in 1807, and until 1827, only embraced all between the Brush farm on the east and Cass farm on the west and the river and Adams avenue, to which point it was platted into city lots; beyond for two miles were suburban lots of 10 acres, called "Park Lots," for.gardens and pasturing, beyond the woods. On the east and west, up and down the river, were cultivated farms. Those on the east were, in their order, the Brush, L. Beaubien, A. Beaubien, C. Moran, L. Moran, Rivard, Mullett, Guoin, Riopelle, Dequindre, Witherell, St. Aubin, Dubois, James Campau, Chene, Joseph Campau, McDougall, B. Chapoton, G. Hunt, W. B. Hunt, Leib, Meldrum, Beaufait, L. Chapoton, Church, Moross and Van Dyke farms. On the west, the Cass, Jones, Forsyth, Labrosse, Baker, Woodbridge, Lbgnon, Thompson, Lafferty, P. Godfrey, La Fontaine, Stanton, Loranger, J. Godfrey, G. Godfrey, Brevoort, Porter, A. Campau, B. Hubbard and J. B. Campau farms, all of which have long since SKETCHES O1F DETROIT. 125 ceased to be cultivated, and are platted into city lots-with a hundred streets built up with stores, manufactories, shops and dwellings, owned and occupied by a dense, thrifty and enterprising population. PUBLIC GROUNDS. The wide avenues and public parks and squares, in the original plat of the city, made by the Governor and Judges, under authority granted by Act of Congress, after the old town was destroyed by fire in 1805, are evidences and enduring monuments of their wisdom, good taste and judgment, eliciting enthusiastic commendations from strangers who visit us, which besides being adornments of an attractive character, are Qf vast utility in ventilating the city, and rendering it more salubrious, and in arresting the spread of fires. The plan was designed by Judge Woodward, and is commonly called " Woodward's plan," and it is fit and due to his memory that the broad avenne-120 feet wide-running through its centre, from the river to its northern limits, should bear his name, "Woodward avenue," although he himself disclaimed the honor, saying, "it was so named because it extended wood-ward, from the river to the woods." Besides the broad avenues of 100, 120 and 200 feet wide, there are squares and parks as follows: Campus Martius-i-Military Square-400 x 600 feet, in which are the City Hall and Soldiers and Sailors' Monument. Grand Circus, a half circle, crossed in the center by Woodward avenue, dividing it into two parks, with fountains, trees, etc., in each, is 500x1,000 feet. Centre Park has a front on Gratiot avenue of 212 feet, in which is the Public Library, surrounded by trees and a well kept lawn. Capitol Park, so named, it having been the site of the old 126 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Territorial capitol, is 168 feet front on State street, in which is the Detroit High School. East Park, triangular, has a frontage of 166 feet on Farmer, Farrar and Bates streets, each 50 feet in width, in which is located the Central Police Station. West Park, triangular, surrounded by State, Park and Palmer streets, each 50 feet in width. It has a frontage on State street of 168 feet. It is embellished with trees, walks, lawns, fountain, etc. Besides the above there are some half a dozen small parks, in the new additions, tastefully improved with trees, walks, lawns and fountains, and besides all which, there at the head of the Detroit river, at its entrance to Lake St. Clair, is 750 acres of forest trees on Belle Isle Park. "Detroit has her treasures, refreshing and free, On this link of these lakes, as they roll to the sea, Where traffic can prosper and beauty can smile, As they -charm us to-day from her park on the isle." LAMBIE. The grounds at Fort Wayne, a military post, three miles distant from the City Hall, reached by horse cars, is one of the most interesting, delightful and picturesque places in the neighborhood of the city. It is situated on the bank of the river just where it turns from a westerly to a southerly course, and opposite the quaint, ancient village of Sandwich, Canada. Looking east, one has a commanding view of the river for miles, with Belle Isle Park at the head, dividing the waters flowing into it from Lake St. Clair; of the villages of Windsor and Walkertown; on the Canada shore, and of the " City of the Straits," with its long line of shipping at its five miles of docks, and its towering elevators and hundred church towers. FOUNTAIN WEST GRAND CIRCUS PARK, SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 129 BY-GONES-OLD LAND-MARKS. "All things decay with time; the forest sees The growth and downfall of her aged trees; The timber tall, which three-score lustres stood, The proud dictator of the state-like woodI mean the sovereign of all plants, the oakDroops, dies and falls Without the cleaver's stroke. Fifty-six years, the time of the residence of the writer in Detroit, is not a very long period, but many changes take place, and events occur within that time, and in the past it comprehends an eventful period in the history of the West, and particularly of the cities of the lakes. Within that time Detroit has grown from' a mere military and fur trading post, with a population of about 1,500 to be a great commercial and manufacturing city, containing a population of about 150,000. Of the 230 actively engaged in business at the commencement of that period, and whose names are remembered by the writer, only seven survive. All the others have passed from earth, forcibly reminding us of the solemn truth that " man that is born of woman is of few days," and that "We must all die; All leave ourselves, it matters not where, when, Nor how, so we die well." The site and the strait on the bank of which it is located are all that remains of the city at the commencement of that period, except the old French stone church of St. Ann, the first house of worship erected after the destruction of the town by fire, and even this has been despoiled of the five steeples it then had. The wood Presbyterian Church was on the northeast corner of Woodward avenue and Laned street. Its pastor, Rev. Noah M. Wells, of gr&at personal popularity even outside of 130 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. his special charge, whose days were long in the land, preached after passing the age of four score and ten years occasionally until within two years of his death at the advanced age of 98 years, which occurred in 1879. His funeral took place in this city in the third church erected by the society of which he had been the pastor a half century before. St. Paul's Episcopal Church was in the same square on Woodward avenue; the Methodist brick church far out on the commons near where the Public Library now stands; the good Father Richards' Mount Calvary on the grounds of St. Ann's Church, raised with earth from the razed embankment of the English fort built during the American revolution. The Protestant Cemetery adjoined the Presbyterian, and that of the Roman Catholics, the Church of St. Ann. The brick Academy or University, 24x50 feet, fronting on Bates street was built on the Protestant Cemetery by the corporation known as " The Catholepistemaid or University of Michigania;" the old school house with its cupola and bell, the only one of the kind west of Lake Erie, was on Griswold street where the elegant seven story Campau building has just been erected. The school house was built by that patriarch the late Joseph Campan, and extended well out beyond the present line of the street. The street was to be widened and Mr. Campau resisted, deeming the award of the jury insufficient compensation, when the court authorized the city to saw down through it on the line established and remove that part of it falling into the street, which was done. The Government Council House, the second story of which was built by the Free Masons and used as their lodge room, where the Firemen's Hall now is, was on the southwest corner of Jefferson avenue and Randolph street; the United States stone arsenal, on the northwestcorner of Jefferson avenue and Wayne street, where the writer, in 1832, saw General Scott, en route to the seat of the Black Hawk war, in his shirt SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 131 sleeves, selecting and loading into carts, such munitions as he required, while on board his boat, the Sheldon Thompson, at the dock, the cholera raged fearfully among his troops, scarce well ones enough to take care of the sick. No "fuss and feathers" there. The government brick store house, its walls still pierced with round shot from the opposite Canadian shore during the war of 1812, was on the river bank opposite the arsenal; the stone magazine in Congress street near Wayne street, with its subterranean pathway to the arsenal and Fort Shelby on the terrace beyond; the fort covered most of the space between Congress and Lafayette and Griswold and Wayne streets; the cantonment buildings west, between Congress and Fort streets; the earth fort in Judge Sibley's field west of Woodward avenue, hastily thrown up by Captain Porter with a portion of Wayne's army the night before he entered and took possession of the city, in 1796. During the war of 1812 the Indians became troublesome by emerging from the adjacent woods and driving off cattle, etc, and while a citizen, Mr. McMillan and a young son, were out in search of his cow, he was killed and scalped, and his son taken and held captive for several years. After that the citizens placed a cannon on the fort and kept a guard there to protect the inhabitants. The fort was there as late as 1830. The stores, shops and offices of the Indian Department were on the high bold bank of the river, south of the road on the Cass farm opposite the residence of Governor Cass, where in front of which the writer one Sunday evening witnessed an Indian war dance in full feather and paint by a number of Winnebago chiefs around a fire under a sap kettle in which white dog soup was boiling. The postoffice, in James Abbott's building, was on Woodward Avenue, in which was the American Fur Company's store, of which Mr. Abbott was agent. The Territorial brick Capitol, where now is the High 132 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. School was at the head of Griswold street, and the large stone jail in front of which, in 1831, the writer witnessed the execution of the last death sentence in Michigan, stood, where now is the Public Library. The public houses were the Taverns, " Where the village statesmen talked with looks profound, And news much older than their ale went round." (Often no mail from the East was received for two or three weeks); the " Steamboat Hotel "-Uncle Ben's "-corner of Woodbridge and Randolph streets, proprietor Capt. Benjamin Woodworth, brother of the printer poet, author of " The Old Oaken Bucket;" Richard Smith's Hotel, west side of Woodward avenue, between Jefferson avenue and Woodbridge street; the Godfrey House, nearly opposite; Pat Palmer's Tavern, south side of Jefferson avenue, east of Bates street; the Saguinash Hotel, on Jefferson avenue, near where now is the Michigan Exchange; Cliff's Tavern, far out Woodward avenue, near the Grand Circus; the Yellow Tavern, on the west side of Woodward avenue, near the Grand Circus, which at that time was the only house on that side of the avenue, between Campus Martius and the woods, -there being a dry ridge there, it was the favorite militia drill ground, where they were put through the exercise according to Steuben, with the old flint-lock muskets; Garrison's Yankee Boarding House, always overflowing full, fronting Bates street, on the rear half of the lot now occupied by the Banner Tobacco Company. The first public market, with its cobble-paved floor, built in 1816, at a cost of $1,600, by Benjamin Woodworth, contractor, in Woodward avenue, just south of Jefferson avenue, also served as a whipping post, where culprits were tied up and the rawhide applied to their bare backs, and an auction mart where vagrants were publicly sold out to service. The last sale and last whipping were witnessed by the writer more than a half century ago. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 133 Governor Hull's Mansion, built in 1807, on the site where the Biddle House stands, was the first brick building in Michigan. It was a square house, with a spacious hall in the centre, two high stories on a high basement. At the close of the war of 1812 it and the extensive grounds were purchased by the late Major John Biddle, brother of Nicholas Biddle, President of the old United States Bank, who distinguished himself at the Battle of Lundy's Lane. He was sent at the close of the war to collect and take charge of the military stores here. The house was occupied by him many years as his residence, and in the basement was the United States Land Office, of which he was Register. Subsequently it was converted into a hotel, and called successively Wales Hotel and American Hotel. It was burned in the great fire of 1848, when nine acres were burned over. The present Biddle House was built on its site by a stock company, and finally Major Biddle became the exclusive owner, and it is still owned by his heirs. The brick residence and extensive fruit garden of Judge Sibley were opposite. The Bank of Michigan, formerly the Detroit Bank, was opposite the Firemen's Hall. The homestead of the late Joseph Campau, south side of Jefferson avenue, east of Griswold street, the first house built after the fire of 1805, was built on the same foundation of the one burned, which foundation was laid in 1750, and was the foundation of the mess house of the officers in Fort Pontchartrain, constructed by the French Government in 1701. Previous to which the site of this fort was occupied by an Indian village by the Iroquois tribe. The Governor Cass Mansion, fronting the river on the Cass farm, was built by Cadillac, the founder of Detroit, and occupied by many of the early commandants of Detroit, and in it Major General Alexander Macomb was born. Referring to its eccentric portico, with its pyramidal roof reach 134 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. ing above the eaves, Colonel Henry Whiting, A. Q. M., in a humorous poem on the "Age of Steam," in 1830, said of it: "Next to the bank, in antique guise, The Cass-tle of Cass-ina lies, Whose porch, that some pagot fit, Disturbed with doubts McKenney's wit, Who thought, 'tis said, when first he scanned it, Perhaps some Mandarin had planned it." The Ox grist mill was on the river beach, below the Indian storehouse opposite; the elevated town pump at the foot of Randolph street, under which barrels in carts could be filled with water to supply the inhabitants, which was delivered for one shilling per barrel; the Hydraulic Pumping Works, were erected in 1827, foot of Randolph street, with a fortygallon cask at the top of a cupola, forty feet high, into which water was elevated by horse-power furnished from the wool carding and full cloth factory-the only one ever herethence the water was conveyed by gravity in wood pipes to a reservoir, 16x16 feet square, and 6 feet deep, made of oak plank, on the rear of the lot where now is Firemen's Hall, from thence it was conveyed in wood pipes to the residences of the principal citizens, who then all lived on Jefferson avenue and Woodbridge street. The tall, picketed, extensive " Deer Park"---amid scrub oaks, on the Cass farm, about where Michigan ayenue now crosses it-was the English commandant's who succeeded Pontiac as "'the king and lord of all this country"' The "River Savoyard," with its willow-skirted banks running between the first and second terraces across the entire width of the city; the old wind grist mills that lined the banks of the river; the ferry-house opposite the city across the strait, where Captain Burtis' catamaran horse-boat ferry landed; the elevated stocks, built of heavy oak timber, on the river bank near Sandwich, for the punishment of culprits guilty 0 4-)0 -4 0 (U 8 0 Cn H wu 0 4 tn 4-1 R1lili SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 137 of minor offences,-all are gone. Gone too are all the active men here of that day, except Hon. Daniel Goodwin, Col. John Winder, Amos Chaffee, C. Hurlbut, Jonathan L. King, Samuel Hopkins of St. Clair, and Richard Butler of Mt. Clemens. The sensitiveness of the sex forbids naming the surviving women, of whom there are several. The young men of that day still living here, are, Levi E. Dolson, Sproat Sibley, John Owen, Thomas Lewis, Eben N. Willcox, R. E. Roberts, Robert Stead, Friend Palmer, E. V. Cicotte, Alex. Chapoton, Wm. N. Carpenter, Henry Doty. "When musing on companions gone, We doubly feel ourselves alone." Still there is assurance of this truth, nothing is that wholly dies. Carlyle wrote, " The drop which thou shakest from thy wet hand rests not where it falls; it is nearing the tropic of Cancer. How came it to evaporate and not lie motionless? Thinkest thou then there is aught that God hath made that is motionless, without force and utterly dead." " Sure there is none but fears a future state; And when the most obdurate swear they do not, Their trembling hearts belie their boasting tongues." The death roll of men actively engaged in the affairs of life in Detroit in 1827, is as follows: Lewis Cass, William Woodbridge, Solomon Sibley, James Witherell, B. F. H. Witherell, Henry Chipman, John R. Williams, John Trumbull, James May, James Abbott, Robert Abbott, John Biddle, Jonathan Kearsley, Elon Farnsworth, Shubael Conant, Chas. Moran, David Cooper, Abram C. Canniff, Thomas Palmer, Friend Palmer, John Palmer, Mason Palmer, Charles Jackson, Joseph Jackson, John Whipple, Thomas Rowland, Henry M. Campbell, Charles Lamed, Henry S. Cole, George A. O'Keeffe, Robert A. Forsyth, Benj. B. Kerchevall, John Abbott, Oliver Newberry; Walter L. Newberry, Peter J. Des 138 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. noyers, Peter Desnoyers, Rev. Noah M. Wells, Harvey Williams, Rene Marsac, Win. Brewster, Alexander D. Fraser, Charles C. Trowbridge, Dr. John L. Whiting, E. A. Brush, Charles Brush, John Roberts, Griffith Roberts, Ellis Roberts, Joseph Campau, Barnabe Campan, Tunis S. Wendell, John P. Sheldon, Thomas C. Sheldon, Ebenezer Reed, Thomas S. Knapp, Abram Cook, Levi Cook, Orville Cook, John Cook, Patrick Palmer, Oliver W. Miller, Abraham Edwards, Capt. Perkins, John Mullett, Thomas B. Clark, E. Chapoton, Timothy Fales, John Farrar, John Farmer, Nathaniel Prouty, I. W. Woolsey, Win. Stead, Cullen Brown, Dr. Wm. Brown, Augustus S. Porter, Benjamin Woodworth, Ralph Wadhams, Reynolds Gillett, Shadrick Gillett, Chauncy Payne, George McDougall, Robert McDougall, Elijah Converse, Thomas J. Owen, Bethuel Farrand, Jerry Dean, Dr. McCroskey, Dr. Marshall Chapin, Dr. R. S. Rice, Dr. Hendrie, Dr. Henry, Dr. Ebenezer Hurd, Dr. T. B. Clark, Melvin Dorr, J. R. Dorr, DeGarmo Jones, H. V. Disbrow, Francis Cicotte, James Cicotte, Lambert Lafoy, A. Beaubien, Rev. Gabriel Richard, Rev. D. Cadle, Antoine Dequindre, Julius Eldred, David French, Henry Saunderson, Felix Hinchman, Major Henry Whiting, Gen. Hugh Brady, Gen. B. F. Lamed, J. V. R. Ten Eyck, Robert Smart, Joseph Spencer, John McDonell, D. C. McKinstry, Lewis Devenport, Jeremiah Mdore, John Scott, Col. Anderson, Edward Brooks, Austin E. Wing, James Williams, J. B. Vallee, Alva Ewers, Maj. H. B. Brevoort, John Burtis, Wm. Russell, John Garrison, John J. Garrison, Michael Hale, John Hale, Col. Baker, D. B. Cole, S. T. Dyson, Richard Smith, John Smith, John Noble, Gabriel Godfrey, Peter Godfrey, N. B. Carpenter, Knowles Hall, E. Ray, Win. Thorn, Obed Wait, P. Cote, Samuel Day, Wm. Darell, Barney. Moon, J. T. Penny, Ellis Doty, S. Rossiter, Henry Berthelet, Augustus Berthelet, Israel Noble, Adna Merritt, Theophilus Metty, John B. Vernier dit Laducier, Abner Wells, Charles Will SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 139 cox, James Hanmer, Benjamin Chittenden, Asa Madison, Stephen Bain, Alexander Campbell, Robert McNiff, David Dodemead, Cornelius Scanlon, John E. Schwarz, W. B. Hunt, George Hunt, Jedediah Hunt, Elliott Gray, John D. Cray, Samuel Colwell, Darius Lamson, Joseph Andre, John Pherson, F. P. Browning, Francis St. Aubin, Francis Rivard, John L. Leib, James Leib, William A. Fletcher, Samuel Reed, Dominiqne Riopelle, Francis Thibault, John Truax, Thomas Stead, Peter Beaubien, John Bronson, Owen Aldrich, James Beaubien, S. Beach, Harvey Griswold, J. O. Lewis, Charles Howard, Conrad Seek, L. Phelps, Elias Hawley, Gildersleeve Hurd, Jnba Barrows, J. Sears, James Knaggs, Jonathan Keeney, Chauncy Bush, A. McLarran, W. Hoyt, Stephen Wells, James Trowbridge, Francis Brewster, John J. Deming, Wm. Bartlow, Benjamin Clark, John Lebot, Joseph Amlin, J. W. Hunter, A. McArthur, Thomas Dare, James Cook, Timothy Dequindre, G. Mott Williams. NOMENCLATURE OF SOME OF THE THOROUGHFARES. In the original plan of the Governor and Judges, five of the avenues were named in honor of the five first presidents of the United States,-Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison and Monroe. Woodward avenue and Bates street were named after two of the first judges. Woodward avenue originally terminated at the Grand Circus, which was then a full circle 1,000 feet in diameter. Before the plan, which- was made by Judge Woodward, was signed and recorded, Judge Woodward was called to Washington, a long journey in those days; and he was necessarily absent a length of time. During his absence at a meeting held by Governor Hull and Judges Witherell and Bates, it was decided to lay out the land beyond the circus and the north half of the circus into park lots, and extend a street of turnpike width (66 feet) to the woods, which street they 140 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. named Witherell street, which name it bore until a few years since, when it also was given the name of Woodward. On his return. Judge Woodward's attention was called to what had been done, when he said, "You have given the street an appropriate name, for you have withered all my plan," and charged Witherell with egotism in naming the street after himself, when he retorted about his (Woodward's) egotism in giving the broad avenue his name, when Woodward replied, "I did nothing of the kind; it was so named because it ran wood-ward, from the river to the woods." There are people who now think it derives its name from the cause named by the Judge, its course towards the woods. Griswold street was named after Stanley Griswold, the first Secretary of the Territory of Michigan, and Atwater street after Reuben Atwater, who succeeded Griswold as Secretary. Woodbridge street was named after Gov. Woodbridge, who was appointed Secretary on the reorganization of the government after Hull's surrender. Wayne street was named after Gen. Wayne, "Mad Anthony," or " Long Knife," as the Indians called him. Shelby street after Gov. Shelby of Kentucky, who at the age of 66 years commanded in person the Kentucky Volunteers at the Battle of the River Thames. Randolph street after John Randolph of Roanoak. Rowland street, after Major Thomas Rowland, an officer in Hull's army, who refused to submit to the surrender, first editor of the Detroit Advertiser. Cass street, after Gov. Cass, who succeeded Hull after the surrender. Farmer and Farrar streets after John Farmer and John Farrar, who were the first residents on the respective streets bearing their names. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 141 John R. street and Williams street taken together perpetuate the name of Gen. John R. Williams, the first Mayor of Detroit. La Fayette avenue was named after the renowned Marquis. Macomb avenue was named in honor of Major General Alexander Macomb, U. S. A., who was born here. Fort street west took its name from its covering a portion of the site of Fort Shelby. It has a further significance at the present time from its leading to Fort Wayne. Sibley street was named after Judge Solomon Sibley, the first American to settle in Detroit after the United States took possession-the owner of the Park lot through which it was laid out, and Sproat street after his son, Col. Sproat Sibley. George street and Duffield street together, perpetuate the name of Rev. George Duffield, Pastor of the First Presbyterian Church. Palmer street, after Thomas Palmer, who built the first Territorial capitol and jail. Brush street, after Col. Elijah Brush, an officer in Hull's army at the time of the surrender, and owner of the farm through which it runs. Alfred street was named by the late E. A. Brush after his brother, Dr. Alfred Brush; Adelaide street in memory of his mother, and Edmond street after a lamented deceased son. Stimson Place after Benjamin Stimson, owner of the Park lot through which it is laid out. Beaubien, Rivard, Guoin, Riopelle, Mullet, Dequindre, St. Aubin. Dubois, Chene, McDougall and Joseph Campau streets, were named after the owners of the farms respectively through which they run. Trumbull avenue was named in honor of John Trumbull, the poet of the Revolution, author of " McFingal," who 142 SKETOHES OF DETROIT. died at the residence of Governor Woodbridge, his son-inlaw, on his farm, through which the avenue runs. Croghan street was named in honor of Major George Croghan, aged 21 years, who with a garrison of 167 and one six pounder, held Fort Stephenson against a force of 490 British regulars under General Proctor, and about 2,500 Indians, under the Chief Tecumseh, saying in reply to a demand to surrender, sent by flag of truce, "Tell Gen. Proctor if he wants this fort, to come and take it, Major Croghan never surrenders." Porter street, in honor of Capt. Porter, who raised the first United States flag in Michigan. Gratiot avenue was so named because it extended to Fort Gratiot. It was laid- out and ground broken on it by the General Government as a military road in 1828, and runs in a straight line for sixty miles, and it is safe to say that it is the longest straight away street leading out of the city. Adair street, after Hon. William Adair, along the line of whose nursery and green-house grounds it extends. Wight street, after Hon. Buckminster Wight, owner of a large tract of land through which it extended. THEATRICALS. The citizens of Detroit always manifested an interest in theatrical entertainments. As early as 1825 the officers of Fort Shelby, among whom was the veteran journalist James Watson Webb, then a Lieutenant, gave theatrical entertainments in one of the cantonment buildings, to which citizens generally received complimentary tickets. After the withdrawal of the troops from here in 1826, a "1Thespian Society" was formed by leading citizens, amateurs, who gave entertainments, to which citizens received complimentary invitation. Major John Biddle and Col. Edward Brooks were members of the society. About 1830 a professional theatrical company, under the management of Parsons and SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 143 Dean, came here from Louisville, Kentucky, and there being no hall or proper place of sufficient size for them, the enterprising proprietor of the Steamboat Hotel, corner of Woodbridge and Randolph streets, Capt. Benjamin Woodworth converted the loft over the large stable, in the rear of the hotel, into a very comfortable theatre, the entrance to which was through the hall on the second floor of the hotel. The principal actors were Mr. Parsons, Mr. Dean, father of Julia Dean, William Forrest, and Miss Clark, a beautiful and accomplished young lady, all of whom were popular with the people, and their performances being of higher order than any before rendered here-and I might add equal to any since-their long stay here, running through several months, was to them a pecuniary success, notwithstanding the population at that time was but little more than 2,000. An amusing incident which occurred at one of the performances is worth mentioning. The play was the " Managers in Distress." Parsons had sent Forrest out to bring in the actors (bear in mind they were over the horses' stable.) Forrest coming on a run on the stage, Parsons frantically asked, " Where are the actors?" Forrest, dropping his head and arms, replied: "There's nary one in the stalls, sir." This brought down the house equal to Placide's ".Toby or not Toby," at the old Park. Mr. Parson's great character was " Othello," and it was said of him after leaving Detroit, and while performing in a Southern city, where, in a Presbyterian church a great revival of religion was in progress, that one night he was billed for "Othello." After the house was well filled the manager appeared in front of the curtain and said: " Mr. Parsons is at the Presbyterian church; he having been suddenly converted, will not appear, and we are compelled to substitute something else for " Othello." At this announcement a large number left, and going into the gallery of the church, called for " Othello," which being 144 - SKETCHES OF DETROIT. repeated several times, Mr. Parsons arose and walked slowly down the broad aisle; stopping, and looking up pleasantly to his theatrical friends in the gallery, he said, in his usual clear tone, "Farewell! Othello's occupation's gone!" and with bowed head and drooping arms he remained standing for a few moments, when he resumed his seat, and his theatrical admirers quietly withdrew from the church. Mr. Parsons from that time left the stage for the pulpit, which he continued to occupy until his death, which occurred about eight years ago. Mrs. Parsons was an estimable lady and a member of the Presbyterian church, and although accompanying her husband on his theatrical tours, while here, it was said, she had never been inside a theatre. The Methodists, having built a church more central on the northeast corner of Woodward avenue and Congress street, vacated their brick meeting house on the southeast corner of Gratiot and Farrar streets, which was the second Protestant church built here, and sold it to Major D. C. McKinstry, who fitted it up for a theatreIt was opened in 1835, under the management of Dean & McKinny, with Charlotte Cnshman as the star actress, who held the boards, drawing crowded houses for over a month. The seating capacity of the theatre was only 400, but such was the popular attraction of Miss Cushman, all standing room was nightly filled. Tickets of admission were twenty-five cents, and the nightly receipts could not have exceeded $125, yet it was regarded as a great financial success-so economical was the management in those days. But times have changed, " things ain't now as they use to has been." Edwin Forrest, the elder Booth, James E. Murdock, Dan Marble, Josh Silsbee and Hacket starred it at this theatre. During the Patriot war of 1838-9, a benefit was given for the patriot cause. Encouraged by his success with this brick theatre, Major McKinstry was induced to build a large wooden theatre on SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 145 the corner opposite, north side of Gratiot avenue. But the Presidential campaign of 1840, with the nightly gatherings in the Log Cabin to hear the eloquent speeches, stories of " Doctor Diable Encore," and the songs, " Tippecanoe and Tyler Too," " 'Tis the Ball a Rolling On," etc., with free drinks of "Hard Cider," and the antics of " that same old coon, sitting on a rail," provided a free entertainment for the masses, and he was forced to close the theatre for want of patronage. It was afterwards used as a furniture manufactory until it was burned, and for m'any years thereafter there was no permanent theatre here; the old City Hall was occasionally occupied by a travelling company, and concerts were frequent in the dining hall of the National Hotel. That veteran actor and manager, G. A. Hough, who is still actively engaged in the same pursuit, in 1844 rented the City Hall, which was not then used by the city-(the sessions of the Council being held in the old Firemen's Hall, northwest corner of Bates and Lamed streets, in which also was the only city office-that of clerk), and gave theatrical entertainments there for three weeks. The admission was only twenty-five cents, and his average receipts were $120 per night, and his expenses, including salaries, did not exceed thirty dollars per night. He had a fair company, with W. G. Noah as leading actor. The population here did not exceed 12,000 at that time, and some may be curious to know how he made such success here nearly forty years ago. I will let Garry tell. He says: "I was on the temperance plan and my dramasI had only two-ran in that groove. The great Washingtonian Movement at that time was taking the country by storm. At the East and in the West, the moral suasion system, inaugurated two years before by the six reformed bummers of Baltimore, had taken a strong hold upon the moral ele 146 SKETCHES OF DETR.IT. ment of the country, and was regarded as the best of all methods yet devised to make rum-drinking disreputable. The belief grew and strengthened that the drunkard could be more permanently reclaimed by love than by force. On this idea two dramas, ' The Brothers,' and the 'Drunkard's Warning,' were written. Both were good. In particular, I regarded 'The Brothers' very powerful and effective; and as a rule at the conclusion of each performance the temperance pledge was circulated among the audience, and a good many names were obtained. This was the moral point of the show. The pecuniary point was to secure as many twenty-five cent pieces as possible at the door." Mr. Hough came here again the following summer, when, he says, he found Israel S. Merritt-an old acquaintance-giving theatrical entertainments in the City Hall. "I called on him," he said, "and found that he was on my track, performing a temperance drama. As I had made something of a reputation here the year previous, and was still remembered, Merritt induced me to act for him two nights. I did so. He then left town, and I never saw him but once afterwards. But how different were his circumstances. I met him on Broadway, in New York. He was driving four-in-hand, and drew up in front of the Metropolitan Hotel. It was not Isaac S. Merritt then, but ISAAC MERRITT SINGER, the inventor of the sewing machine which bears his name." In 1846 a company, under the management of Mr. Potter, gave theatrical entertainments at the City Hall. The next theatrical venture in Detroit was in 1848, when Messrs. Parker & Ellis, managers of a theatre in Syracuse, New York, came here and leased a lot on Jefferson avenue, opposite the Biddle House, and induced Mr. William Burnell, a master builder here, to build them a theatre thereon, he holding a lien for its cost. Parker and Ellis, both actors, shrewd and enterprising, had in SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 147 tended making Syracuse their place in winter and Detroit in summer. In this they misjudged both. Theatre-goers in Detroit were not in sufficient numbers to give a paying patronage, at least during the heat of summer, and Syracuse failing them in the winter, they were obliged to succumb, and the theatre here was sold to James Sherlock, under whose management it was run with indifferent success until 1854, when it was leased to Mr. A. McFarland, who changed its name to " Metropolitan," and started off with a good stock company, in which were Celia and Olive Logan and Lawrence Barrett. It was here that the latter made his first efforts in the drama. The following season, Mr. Hough, with Susan and Kate Denin, sisters, both young, still in their teens, beautiful, sprightly and attractive, filled a very successful engagement. In 1858 McFarland transferred the contract to Mr. E. T. Sherlock, when Mr. Hough, with Miss Sallie St. Clair, a talented and popular actress, filled an engagement, gaining the applause of all patrons. In 1860 the Metropolitan was turned into a variety theatre, and called " Theatre Comique." Mr. Charles M. Welsh was owner and manager, and successfully ran it for many years. It was closed two or three years ago, and is now occupied as a livery and coupe stable. Edwin Forrest, Charlotte Cushman, Mrs. McClure, Mr. Isherwood, Dan Marble, Miss Julia Dean, the elder Booth, J. Wilkes Booth, James E. Murdock, Hackett, William Forrest the comedian, Silsbee, and other stars, besides those before mentioned, appeared at the Jefferson Avenue Theatre. The foregoing sketch of the history of the theatres in Detroit covers a period of half a century, from 1825. Detroit now has four prominent theatres, the Detroit, Whitney's Grand, White's Grand, and the Park, with a seating capacity of about 5,000. 148 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. TIME'S CHANGES. Three score years "ago a venerable and intelligent United States Senator opposed a bill before Congress making an appropriation to open turnpikes from Detroit through the dense forests covering the government lands in Michigan, to induce settlement and augment the sales of public land, and said: "That being but unfrequently travelled it would soon be obstructed by a growth of trees, leaving the forest as impassable as ever."' Such was the estimate by a learned Senator of the progress of the settlement of the great West, where since eight populous States have been added to the galaxy of the Union, carved out of the Western forests. About fifty years years ago, when the population was about 5,000, the writer heard a member of our City Council while advocating an appropriation for some public improvement, make the prediction that "within the life of some present, Detroit would contain a population of 20,000," and he has seen it reach seven times that number. Within the past three score years there has come to us the following useful devices and discoveries: The steel carriage spring, in place of the leather thorough-braces and spring pole; the locomotive and palace car, in place of the horse stage coach; the steel railroad, in place of the corduroy and McAdam road; the electric telegraph and telephone, in place of the numerical signal telegraph; the steam reaper and thrasher, in place of the cradle and flail; the percussion cap and breech-loader, in place of the flint-lock musket; the petroleum and electric light, in place of the tallow dip and whale oil rush-light.; the "loco-foco" or friction lighter, in place of the flint, steel and tinder box; palace steam ferries, in place of the horse-boat and canoe plying across our majestic river. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 149 And in this ancient city of the strait we have the coach, 'bus, coupe and buggy, in place "Of French charettes bouncing along, lesfilles All seated a la Turque upon the soft Warm buffaloes, and bobbing up and down With each jerk of that relic of the Old Rgime." SALE OF PUBLIC LANDS. No surveys of land had been made by the government until 1816, and the first sales of land by the government in Michigan were made in 1818. The sales of public lands in 1820 were 2,300 acres. In 1836 there were 1,475,720 acres sold, and the whole number of acres sold to that time was 2,992,910, for which the United States were paid $3,744,669.81. The price of the land was ten shillings per acre. For many years after the first farm settlements were made all of the produce of the farmers was required for home consumption, and the first export of flour from Michigan was made in 1827, when Messrs. Miller & Jermain, of Monroe, shipped 200 barrels to the East. The shipments from Detroit alone, in 1881, were 270,225 barrels of flour, 5,624,679 bushels of wheat, and of other grains, corn, oats, barley and rye,.731,123 bushels. MANUFACTURES, ETC. The principal articles manufactured in Detroit are iron and steel, steam engines and boilers, mill machinery, railway cars and car-wheels, stoves, glass, pins, leather, boots and shoes, clothing, trunks, tobacco and cigars, confectionaries, chemicals, pianos and organs, furniture and chairs, billiard tables, lumber, hoops, staves and heading, ale, beer and malt. The leading manufactories are incorporated stock companies, of which there are about one hundred and fifty. The total number of establishments of all kinds in the city is about one thousand, employing a capital, as reported for 1882, of $20,932,700, and giving employment to 25,563 hands. 150 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Amount of annual wages paid,. $9,005,438; value of material consumed, $25,201,545, and the product was $48,459,196. During the year ending January 1st, 1883, there were 1,676 buildings erected, at a cost of more than $3,000,000. The Michigan Central Depot, now being erected, is estimated to cost $165,000. The new Union Depot and Elevator were recently completed at a cost of $350,000. The elevator has a capacity of a million and a half of bushels. Many of the buildings, both for residence and business purposes, erected here within the past few years would be regarded as first-class in any city. Among them may properly be mentioned the iron-front blocks of stores of D. M. Ferry, Francis Palns and T. A. Parker, the Carpenter and Chandler blocks of stores, Wesson Block, Chamber of Commerce, the Newberry & McMillan and D. J. Canpau blocks,, for banks and offices, all of which may be classed among the finest structures in the West, at least. A number of the residences, although costing far less, are as palatial as those of any other city. The estimated value of the D. J. Campan building and ground is $250,000. The bonded debt of the city, January 1st, 1883, was $2,008,060.08. Income of the sinking fund.during the year was $318,815.86. The value of the property owned by the city is estimated to be $9,077,262.22. The value of the real and personal estate, as assessed for purposes of taxation in 1882, was $94,891,407, and the tax levy was $1,652,000. There are twelve chartered banks in the city, with an aggregate capital of $3,700,000; deposits, $20,339,000; loans and discounts, $16,793,000. There are, besides, a number of private banking houses, employing, in the aggregate, a large amount of capital. Detroit has nearly one hundred miles of paved streets, about eighty miles of which is wood and the balance stone. About two hundred miles of water-mains; one hundred miles or gas-mains; a large number of electric lights. There are in the service of the Fire Department thirteen SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 151 steam fire-engines, three chemical engines, three hook and ladder trucks, one fire-escape, one salvage truck, and two supply wagons. The fire-alarm telegraph combines one hundred and twenty-six boxes and attachments, and one hundred and thirty miles of wire connections. There are 1,039 street hydrants and one hundred and eighty-three street reservoirs. Total force, one hundred and forty-two men and sixty-five horses. The Police Force, including officers, numbers two hundred men. There are in the city twenty-six miles of street railroads, giving employment to more than three hundred men and about seven hundred and fifty horses. The Telephone Exchange have thirty-three public telephone stations, and eleven hundred subscribers in the city, and connections with all the principal cities within a radius of one hundred miles. The Free Public Library contains about 60,000 volumes of books. There are two law libraries, an Episcopal clergymen's library, and a good library in the Young Men's Christian Association rooms. There are twenty-nine Public School buildings, with a seating capacity of 14,000. There are two hundred and seventy-one teachers, of whom eleven only are males. Free night-schools are also maintained. Besides which there are a number of private seminaries and schools. There are ninety churches, seventeen of which are Roman Catholic and two Jewish. There are in the city two medical colleges, fifteen hospitals and asylums. There are published in the city forty-five newspapers and periodicals of various kinds; five of the papers are issued daily, three morning and two evening issues. Detroit, in many particulars, is the unrivalled city of the lakes. Its site and location is admirably adapted to commercial and mechanical business of every kind, and on a large scale, situated as it is on a magnificent river, never swollen by flood or shallowed by dronth, with safe anchorage everywhere. As a harbor it is excelled by few in the world, 152 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. either in picturesqueness or safety. Its growth has been steady, healthy and natural, and the city of to-day is almost entirely the growth of the past half century. Portions of the city which previously were the very outskirts-ponds then existing on the Grand Circus and on the farms at the head of the "River Savoyard," where sportsmen hunted duck and plover, and commons where Indians captured and scalped peaceable citizens,-are now far within the thicklysettled and populated districts. The localities occupied by forts, cantonments, block-houses, magazines and navy-yards; the potato fields, commons where cattle grazed, and Indians with their squaws had their, games of ball, and grave-yards were, are now compactly covered with long rows of stores and warehouses, manufactories, mechanics' shops, princely dwellings and towering church-steeples, with a dense, thrifty and enterprising population, whose busy hum have so changed the scene that the ancieht habitant, and those born and reared in the land, are scarcely able to recognize it. As the poet might say: On lawn and slope-the redman's late abode, The steam-horse rushes on an iron road, The steeple rises, and vast granaries groan With products of wide realms, by commerce made our ownPonds where sportsmen hunted duck and plover, Now with parterres and parks are covered over. Green lanes through which the habitant, alone, Drove his charette, to spacious streets have grown, Paved with cobbles which perplexed the shore Of his blue " strait," by trade not docked of yoreStrait whose clear depths no pirogue's keel could reach, Now sullenly give back the screw-tug's awful screech. Fresh from the " Back Concessions "-what surprise Illumes Jean Crapeau's honest, wond'ring eyesTo see the terrace where the rampart frowned, With lofty piles of brick and mortar crowned. Alas! what greater change upbraids the modern place, Containing now a less contented race; The simple virtues of the olden time Exchanged for coin-the more almighty dime. OLD PEAR TREES. Transplanted from France by the first Farm Settlers in Michigan, in 1749. Photographed in 1883. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 155 THE OLD PEAR TREES.* BY W. H. COYLE. [Written by request, for the compiler of these Reminescences, in 1849.] A HUNDRED years and more ye have stood, Through sunshine and through storm, And still like warriors clad in mail, Ye lift your stalwart form. Proud in your might, ye challenge the wind, As in your palmy days; And ye laugh in scorn at the howling blast And the lightning's lurid blaze. Ye have seen the boy in his childhood play In your cool shades, blithe and brave, And have moaned with the evening summer breeze, O'er the old grandsire's grave, From your lofty tops, o'er the river blue, Ye have looked, long, long ago, As the savage leaped on the shining sands With scalping-knife and bow. Beneath your leafy boughs the painted chief Has pitched his peaked tent, And the council fire, through your quivering leaves, Its silver smoke has sent. From the frontier fort ye have seen the flash, And heard the cannon's boom, Till the stars and stripes in victory waved Through the battle's glare and gloom. When the ancient city, by the flames, Ye saw it in ashes expire, But, like true sentinels, kept your posts In the blazing whirl of fire. *These trees were transplanted from that enchanted garden of Europe, " La Belle France," in 1749, by the first farmers, who brought them with them. Many of the trees still remain, bearing fruit, now one hundred and thirty-four years old. 156 SKETOHES OF DETROIT. And where tall temples now lift their spires, And priests and people meet, Ye have seen the giant forest oak, And the wild deer bounding fleet. Where the white-sailed ship now rides the wave, Ye have watched the bark-canoe, And heard, in the night, the voyager's song, And the Indian's shrill halloo. The lingering few " vieux habitans, Look at ye with a sigh, And memory's tear-drop dims the gaze, While they think of the times gone by. Oh! those were honest and happy times, The simple days of old, When their forefathers quaffed and laughed, And lived for more than gold. One by one, like brown autumnal leaves, They are fast falling to the ground, And soon the last of that honored race Beneath the yew-tree will be found. Live on, old trees, in your hale, green age! Long, long may your shadows last, With your blossomed boughs and golden fruit, Loved emblems of the past. THE GREAT LAKES. The great chain of rivers and lakes, two thousand miles in extent, contain one-third of all the fresh water on the globe, and together, form the greatest body of inland navigable water in the world. The following will show, in a condensed form, estimates THE GREAT LAKES. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 159 of the mean length, breadth, depth, area and elevation of the several bodies of water which compose the great chain: 0 P Lake Superior................... 400 80 900 587 32,000 Green Bay....................... 100 20 500 560 2,000 Lake Michigan.................. 320 70 1,000 578 22,400 Lake Huron..................... 240 80 1,000 578 20,400 Lake St. Clair.................. 20 18 20 570 360 Lake Erie..................... 240 40 84 565 9,600 Lake Ontario.................. 180 35 500 232 6,300 River St. Lawrence........................ 20..... 940 94,000 The shores of the State of Michigan are washed by five of these lakes-Superior, Michigan, St. Clair, Huron and Erie. tligh and Low Water. The water-level of the lakes is subject to variations, and many theories are advanced as to the cause of the variations. It is probable that it is solely due to the rain-fall, evaporation and prevalent direction of the wind. But before any satisfactory conclusion can be arrived at, observations must be made for a series of years at various points, not only along the chain of lakes, but also at all points within the rain-shed drained by them-comprising an area of 175,000 square miles. The water-level of the Detroit River is subject to variations. The greatest variation recorded is six feet and fourtenths of a foot, the highest being in June, 1858, and the lowest in October, 1841. Protracted, heavy westerly winds have the effect to lower the water in the river, for the reason that such winds drive the water down Lake Erie below, while they set it back in Lakes St. Clair and Huron above, and protracted, heavy easterly storms of wind have the effect 160 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. to raise the water in the river, for the reason that they drive the waters down Lakes Huron and St. Clair, while they hold it back in Lake Erie. The observations of the variations run back to 1819, when it was made by Major (later MajorGen.)-Henry Whiting. The observations are made from a fixed point on the Water-Works engine-house, to which the point of observation of Major Whiting was referred by calculation. The Rain-FThu. In 1841, when the water was the lowest of which we have any record, the rain-fall at Detroit was only two feet 9.92 inches during the year. In 1855, when it was but a few inches below the highest point recorded, the rain-fall was but a fraction less than six feet during the year. In 1858, when the water was.at the highest point recorded, the rain-fall was only three feet four inches and four-tenths, and in 1859, the water continuing high, the rain-fall during the year was only two feet nine inches 61 2.10. The driest year of any recorded was in 1865, when the rain-fall was but a fraction more than one foot nine inches. In 1871, the year of the great Chicago fire, there was but a fraction more. Those were the two driest years on record. The average rain-fall at Detroit for twenty-years, from 1840 to 1860, was three feet 9.81 inches, and the whole quantity of water which fell here during that time was a fraction more than seventy-six feet. In the twelve years following, from 1860 to 1871, both years inclusive, the rainfall was thirty feet 6.57 inches. Annual average two feet 6.65 inches. THE DETROIT RIVER OR STRAIT, Connecting Lakes Erie and St. Clair, is a magnificent stream which is never swollen by flood, or shallowed by drouth, and good anchorage everywhere. It is twenty-five miles long, from one-half to two miles wide, from thirty to H Ell 0 H z 00-d 00 (( ( SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 163 fifty feet deep, and 236,000 cubic feet of water per second passes through it on to the sea, in its course plunging over the falls of Niagara. "Onward and over! still it goes, in free, Untamed, untiring speed, mile upon mile, To its last second bourn." The Niagara. "What are the cobweb creeds and musty riddles Of the schools, to teach Divinity? Proud sophist, puny babbler of another's doubts, Come and kneel here upon the tombstone Of thy dusty weakness, and be dumb. Here lean beyond this dizzy brink, And learn Philosophy in this, The Sanctuary and Solitude of wonders. Hast thou a tongue as eloquent as that Of deep calling unto deep? A voice as musically strong as that bold echo, Booming upward to the ear of God In one eternal, solemn tempest-tone, From yonder gulf, forever veiled With the dim curtaining of cloud?" Coyle. The maximum velocity of the current of the Detroit River is 2.71 miles per hour. The water is the purest fresh water found in any river in the world. It is the national boundary line between the United States and Canada. The lateral streams of water emptying into it are, on the Canada side, the River aux Canards, and on the American side, ascending from Lake Erie, the Huron River, Monguagon Creek, River Ecorse, River Rouge and May's Creek, below the city, and Parent Creek or " Bloody Run," Connor's Creek and Pike Creek, above. There are seventeen islands in the river, named as follows: Clay, Celeron, Hickory, Sugar, Bois Blanc, Elba, Fox, Rock, Stony, Grosse, Turkey, Fighting, Mama Juda, Grassy, Mud, Belle and Peach. The two latter are above the city, 164 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. the others below, between the city and Lake Erie. Belle Isle (formerly "Isle au C6chon"), was one hundred and twenty years ago (1763) the home of Pontiac, the greatest warrior of his race, and as said, " The Satan of this paradise," and " The King and Lord of all this country." It is located at the head of the river, just above the east line of the city, and divides the water as it enters the river from Lake St. Clair, into two streams, each about one-half mile wide. The island contains about seven hundred and fifty acres of land, densely covered with forest trees. It was recently purchased by the city for a public park for the sum of $200,000-and is now being improved for that purpose. Several large, magnificent steamers ply regularly to it from the city, conveying large numbers of visitors to it daily during the warm weather. Isle a la Peche, now called Peach Island, a mile above the head of the channel south of Belle Isle Park, is about a mile long and its greatest width about three-quarters of a mile, and surrounded by the clear blue waters of Lake St. Clair, of a depth of from 25 to 30 feet. This beautiful lake is dotted by steam and sail vessels, ever in view, from the isle, bearing to its destination a commerce and traffic greater than, the foreign commerce of the nation. The isle has recently been purchased by Mr. Hiram Walker, with the purpose of improving it and making another delightful pleasure retreat during the heated term. Grosse Isle, below the city about ten miles, is the largest in the river, on which there are a number of large, well-cultivated farms. Grapes of the best varieties are grown here with success and profit. This, as well as Belle Isle, Sugar and Slocum's isles, affords very pleasant places of retreat for citizens of our compact city during the extreme heat of summer. On some of the other islands are extensive stone quarries, and on several, in. cluding Belle Isle and Peach Island, there are extensive fisheries, where large quantities of white fish are annually taken. The villages on the strait are as follows: on the Canada SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 165 side, Amherstburg, near the entrance from Lake Erie, Sandwich, opposite the western limits of the cif of Detroit, Windsor, opposite the centre of the city, and Walkertown, opposite the eastern limit of the city; on the American side, Gibraltar, opposite Amherstburg, Trenton, opposite Grosse Isle, Wyandotte, ten miles below the city, Ecorse and Delray. The city of Detroit is situated on the north shore of the strait, with a frontage of about six miles and the line of docks abo'ut five miles. Its site gradually ascends to an elevation of from 20 to 30 feet at the first terrace, along which, parallel with the river, runs Jefferson avenue; at the second terrace, along which runs Fort street, the elevation is from 25 to 31 feet; and at its northern limits, three miles from the river, the elevation is 58 feet The country back of the city continues to rise until, at Birmingham, 18 miles, it reaches an elevation of 400 feet. The natural drainage is all that could be desired, and the improvements by the city, by the construction of subterranean sewers, have rendered the drainage perfect. The water of the river, from which the massed population of 160,000 souls receive their supply for consumption, comes from the great northern lakes covering an area of 76,000 sqnare miles, in which there is little if any lime, and is as soft and pure as rain water. Professor S. P. Duffield, who analyzed it, said: "I think it is impossible to find a river water in the world more free from orqanic ib murilies. The supply is furnished by means of powerful steam pumping engines, through about 200 miles of iron distributing pipes and carried into most dwellings. Up to 1679 the river was only navigated with bark canoes and "1dug-outs," when in the month of August of that year, the schooner Griffin, of sixty tons burden, Robert de LaSalle commander, the first schooner that ever crossed Lake Erie, passed through the strait d'etroit. /' 'I 166 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. "* * * Never had vessel along this shore Clft these quiet waves before. No better craft was ever seen Than brave La Salle's stout brigantine. Out from the prow a Griffin springs, With scales of bronze and fiery wings, And the ship that earned so wide a fame Bore on the scroll the Griffin's name. A gilded eagle carved in wood On the crown of the quarterdeck castle stood, And from the staff astern unrolled, Fl,ating aloft with its lilies of gold, The great white flag of France is spread. And the pennon decking the mainmast head Bears the chieftain's arms of red, Three black-nebbed falcons gaping wide Scowl through the ports on either side, And the old sergeant says they speak Each for a common day in the week, While the great bow gun with its heavy knell Rings as loud as a Sunday bell." Campbell's Lgeend of L'Anse Creuse. There was no ville D'Etroit here then; all was in a state of nature, with a collection, here and there along its shores, of the rudely constructed bark wigwams of the natives of the forest. Father Hennepin, who was a passenger on the Griffin, in his description of the scenery along the strait; said: The islands are the finest in the world; the strait is finer than Niagara; the banks are vast meadows, and the prospect is terminated with some hills covered with vineyards, trees bearing fruit, groves and forests so well disposed, that one would think that nature alone could not have made, without the help of art, so charming a prospect." The first steamboat that ever ascended the strait and disturbed its waters, was the Walk-in the-Water, Captain Job Fish, which arrived at Detroit from Black Rock in 1818; " While now the blue strait, whose depth no keel can reach, Continually resounds with the screw tug's awful screech," THE GRIFFIN. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 169 and during the season of navigation in 1880 the number of vessels-stea.m and sail-that arrived at the port of Detroit was 40,521, aggregating 20,235,294 tons. The entries by Sandy Hook and Hell Gate are fewer, I believe, than 15,000 a year. Hon. O. D. Conger, M. C. from Michigan, in a debate in 1876, said: " In this round world there is not another strait or river entrance to a harbor where so many vessels pass and repass as go through the straits connecting the upper and lower lakes. For six months in the year, there is on average the passage of a vessel every four and seven-tenths minutes by actual count. The passages through the straits have averaged 42,000 a year for the last five years by actual count, under the direction of the Secretary of the Treasury." La D'Etroit-the strait-in a state of nature, before the axe of Europeans felled a tree or the weeping grottoes of wild grape-vines, lining its shores, were disturbed-when "Majestic woods, of every vigorous green, Vine above vine, high waving o'er the strait; Or to the far horizon wide diffus'd A boundless deep immensity of shade," was described by Cadillac in a letter to M. de Calliers, dated October 8, 1701 (for a translation of which we are indebted to T. P. Hall, Esq.), as follows: " The profession of war differs from that of the writer, and I cannot without this latter qualification draw the picture of a country so worthy of a better pen than mine; but since you have instructed me to return some account, I will do so, premising that the Detroit is properly a canal or river of moderate breadth, and of forty-five leagues in length (according to my estimate), situated north-northeast and southsouthwest from where gently flow together and escape the living and crystalline waters of Lakes Superior, Michigan and Huron (which are so many fresh-water seas) into Lakes 170 170 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. Erie, Ontario or Frontenac, whence finally they mingle in the River St. Lawrence with the waters of the ocean. " The banks are so many vast prairies where the freshness of these ever beautiful waters ever gives the grass a verdant tint. These samne prairies are b~ordered by long and extensive groves of fruit trees which have never felt the solicitous hand of the skillful gardener, and these young and old fruit trees bend and curve their branches toward the fertile soil which has produced them. It is in this so fertile laud that the ambitious vine which has not yet wept under the knife of the painstaking vine-dresser forms for itself a dense canopy with its luxurious branches and its bunches of grapes heavy on the head of whoever leans against it, ofte*n choking the one who ventures to embrace it too closely. It is in these vast thickets we can see congregated by hundreds the timid deer and shrinking doe with the roebuck bounding eagerly to gather the apples and plums with which the ground is paved. It is there that t 'he watchful turkey calls together and conducts her nunieronsli brood for harvestina the grapes. It is there that the male turkeys come to fill their large and gluttonous crops. The golden pheasants, the quail, the partridge, the abundant -turtle dove, swarm in the woods and over the fields intersected and broken by clusters of tall forest trees, which afford a charming prospect, such as alone can assuage the sad irksomeness of solitude. It is there that the hand of the merciless gleaner has never cut the succulent grass which fattens the woolly bison to a gross and enormous bulk. " The woods are of ten varieties: Walnut, white oak, red oak, bastard ash, spruce, white-wood, cotton-wood, etc.; but these same trees are straight as arrows, without knots and of prodigious size. It is there that the courageous eagle -fiercely gaZet on the sun, seeing at his feet the wherewithal to satisfy his proudly armed hand. "4The fish is nourishing and bathed in living, crystalline water, and its great abundance renders it no less delicious. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 171 The swans are in so great number that one might mistake them for the water lilies among which they are entangled. The babbling goose, the teal, the bustard, are there so common that I do not wish for the purpose of convincing you of it, that the expression of a savage should serve me, of whom I asked, previous to arriving, whether they had plenty of game there. "' There is so much,' he said, 'that it arranges itself in lines, to permit a canoe to pass by.' " Can we believe that a soil on which nature has distributed everything with so much order, knows how to refuse, at the hand of the laborer inquisitive as to its fertile interior, any return that he may propose? "'In one word, the climate there is temperate, the atmosphere pure during the day, the winds are moderate, and during the night the sky, ever serene, diffuses sweet, refreshing influences that enable one to taste the blessings of tranquil sleep. " If the situation is thereby agreeable, it is none the less important because it opens and closes the door of the passage to the homes of the far-off savage nations by whom these vast fresh-water seas are surrounded." LAKE FISHES. The lakes and rivers abound with fish. The varieties include sturgeon, weighing 120 pounds, muskallonge (or as Lossing calls it, " Masque-alonge," French-" Long face," English), 50 pounds, trout, 60 pounds, pickerel, 15 pounds, pike, 15 pounds, catfish, 25 pounds, mullet, 10 pounds, whitefish from 2 to 10 pounds, herring, bass, perch, grayling and speckled or brook trout. Large numbers of siscoweit, a fish weighing from 3 to 10 pounds, are taken in Lake Superior. They are exceedingly fat, and when tried will yield 25 per cent. of oil. In the vicinity of the Sault Ste. Marie and all the streams emptying into Lake Superior, large quantities of 172 SKETCHES OF DiSTROIT. speckled or brook trout are taken. The grayling, a small gamyfish, abound in the An Sable and other rivers in the northern section of the Lower Peninsula. From the time civilization dawned upon the shores of the lakes, the white fish has been regarded as the prince of fresh water fish, as set forth in the following poem, written by a resident of Detroit in 1840: THE WHITE FISH. BY H. i. RSCHOOLCRAFT. Of venison Goldsmith may wittily singA very fine haunch is a very fine thing; And Burns, in his tuneful and exquisite way, The charms of a smoking Scotch haggis displ ty; But 'tis often much harder to eat than descant, And a poet may praise, what a poet may want; Less doubt there shall be 'twixt my muse and my dish, While her power I invoke in the praise of WHITE-FISH. All friends to good living, by tureen and dish, Concur in exalting this prince of a fish; So fine in a.platter, so tempting a fry, So rich on a gridiron, so sweet in a pie, That even before it the salmon must fail, And that mighty bonne-bouche of the land, beaver's-tail. This fish is a subject so dainty and white, To show in a lecture, to eat, or to write, That equal's my joy: I declare, on my life, To raise up my voice, or to raise up my knife, 'Tis a morsel alike for the gourmand or faster; White, white as a tablet of pure alabaster! Its beauty or flavor no person can doubt, When seen in the waters, or tasted without; And all the dispute that. opinion e'er makes Of this king of lake fishes, this " deer of the lakes,"* Regards not its choiceness, to ponder or sup, But the best mode of dressing and serving it up. *A. translation of AD-DIK-KEEM-MAIG, the Indian name for this fish. SKETCHES OF DETROIT. 173 Here rises a point, where good livers may differ, As tastes become fixed, or opinions are stiffer; Some men prefer roasted-some doat on a fry, Or extol the sweet goftt of a "poisson-blanc" pie; The nice 'petit pate' this palate excites, While that, on a boiled dish and 'bouillon' delights; Some smoked and some salted, some fresh and some dried, Prefer to all fish in our waters beside; And 'tis thought the main question, if epicures look, Respects not the method, so much as the cook; For, like some moral dishes, that furnish a zest, Whate'er's best served up, is still thought the best. There are in gastronomy sages who think 'Tis not only the-prime of good victuals, but drink; That all sauces spoil it, the richer the quicker, And make it insipid, except its own liquor; These roll in a wild epigastric mirage, Preferring the dish a la mode de sauvage By which it quells hunger and thirstiness bothFirst eating the fish, and then drinking the broth: We leave this unsettled, for palates or pens, Who glean out of hundreds their critical tens, While drawn to the board, where full many a dish, Is slighted, to taste this American fish. The planter who whirls through the region by steam, The Creole who sings as he lashes his team, The merchant, the lawyer, the cit and the beau, The proud and gustative, the poor and the low, The gay habitant, the inquisitive tourist, The chemic physician, tihe dinner-crossed jurist, And even the ladies, the pride of the grove, Unite to extol it, and eat to approve: And oft the sweet morsel up-poised on the knife, Excites a bland smile from the blooming young wife; Nor dreams she a sea fish one moment compares, But is thinking the while not of fish but of heirs. To these, it is often a casual sweet, To dine by appointment, or taste as a treat; Not so, or in mental or physical joy, Comes the sight of that fish to the "courier du bois;" 174 SKETCHES OF DETROIT. That wild troubadour and his joy-loving crew, Who sings as he paddles-his birchen canoe, And thinks all the hardshilj.that fall to his lot, Are richly made up at the platter and pot, To him, there's a charm neither feeble nor vague, In the mighty repast ob e ande Ticameg;"\ And oft, as he starves amid a da snows, And dry leather lichens, and " boitdon de rose, ' He cheers up his spirits to think he shall still. On "poisson-blanc bouillon" once mDore have-hi f "Oh choice of all fishes 1" he sings as hegoes,;, ' Thou art sweeter to me than the Normandy rose, And the venison that's stol'n from the park of the king, Is never, by half, so delicious a thing i". The muse might appeal to the science of books, To picture its ichthyological looks; Show what is its family likeness, or odds, Compared with its cousins, the salmons and cods; Tell where it approximates, point where it fails; By counting its fins, or dissecting the scales; Or prove by plain reason, (such proofs can be had,) 'Tis not " toothless salmon," but rather lake shad. Here too might a fancy to descant inclined, Contemplate the lore that pertains to the kind, And bring up the red man, in fanciful strains, To prove its ci afion from feminine brains,t Or, point out its habits, migrations, and changes, S The rmode of its capture, its circles and ronges: But let me forbear-'tis the fault of a song, A tale, or a book,-if too J ed or too long. Thus ends my discussion ifore would ye, I pray, Ask Mitchell or Harlan, Goldsmith, or Cuvier. --------------------------------_ -- * French orthography for the Indian name of this fish. t Vide "Indian Tales and Legends." C"-- *.' 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